I

■•hivi]

REMOTE STORAGE

THE UNIVERSITY

OF ILLINOIS

LIBRARY

'' Vl

A DICTIONARY

MODERN GARDENING.

BY

GEORGE WILLIAM JOHNSON, ESQ.,

FELLOW OF THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF INDIA;

CORRESPONDING MEMIiEK OF

THE ROYAL CALEDONIAN AND MARYLAND HORTICULTURAL SOCIETIES;

AUTHOR OF THE PRINCIPLES OF PRACTICAL GARDENING ;

THE gardener's ALMANACK, ETC

ONE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY V/OOD CUTS.

EDITED, WITH NU.^IEROUS ADDITIONS,

BY DAVID LANDRETH,

OF PHILADELPHIA.

PHILADELPHIA:
LEA AND BLANCH A RD.

1847.

TO

JOHN LINDLEY, Ph.D., P.R.S.,

VICE SECRETARY OF THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, AND PROFESSOR OF
BOTANY IN UNIVERSITY COLLEGE,

AS OXE OF THE MOST EFFICIENT

PROMOTERS OF MODERN HORTICULTURE,
THIS VOLUME

IS DEDICATED BY

THE AUTHOR.

Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1S47, by

LEA AND BLANCHARD,

in the OfFice of the Clerk of the District Court for tire Eastern District of
Pennsylvania.

PHILADELPHIA:

T. K. AXD P. G. COLLIXS,

PKINTEKS.

1\

^o

REMOTE STORAGE

AUTHOR'S PREFACE.

Utility, more than either originality of contents or elegance of phraseology,
has been the author's principal object in the following pages. He has endea-
voured to gather together in one volume, attainable at a moderate price, an
arranged, easily consulted, record of Gardening, as it is. To effect this object,
he has obtained aid from the best living authorities, as well as from their
published works; but he has not neglected those of other periods, where he
has found in them directions upon which the moderns have suggested no im-
provements. Of all the authorities consulted, none has afforded such abundant
information as the Gardeners^ Chronicle, of which it is not too much to say that,
as it is the best of modern journals devoted to promoting the cultivation of the
soil, so, whoever is fortunate enough to possess a complete copy of its five
published volumes, has a work of reference from which he will rarely turn away
unsatisfied if seeking for information relative to its peculiar subjects.

In every instance, the author has endeavoured to give tribute where due, and
if he has erred in this, or in any other particular, he will be highly obliged by
correction. Besides the work already quoted, he has been much indebted to
Paxton-s Botanical Dictionary ; Whatei.zy's Landscape Gardening ; Glenny's
Practical Gardener and Florist; Maund's Botanic Garden; Lindley's Theory
of Horticulture ; and The United Gardener and Land Steward's Journal. The
author does not wish to mislead his readers into the belief that this is a Botanical
Dictionary. On the contrary, he has confined his notices to such genera of plants
as deserve a place in some department of the garden ; and, for the most part,
even in enumerating the number of species in each genus, only those have been
reckoned that are worthy of cultivation.

It only remains to be explained that, in the monthly calendars, b. intends the
beginning, or first half ef the month, and e. the end, or its closing half.

The following works have also been freely consulted and quoted : —

CuTHBERT Johnson, On Fertilisers.

Farmers' Encylopadia.

Loudon and Westwood's Kollar on Predatory Insects.
, Loudon's Gardeners' Encyclopedia.

Gardeners' Magazine.

Johnson's Principles of Gardening.

Abercrombie's Gardeners' Dictionary.

Johnson's Gardeners' Almanack.

Transactions of the London Horticultural Society.

Caledonian Horticultural Transactions.

Horticultural Magazine.

Decandolle's Philosophy of Plants.

3(34:84

PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.

The ordinary form in cases of reprint, with additions and explanatory notes,
has been departed from in the present instance with a desire to preserve the
book from the awkward aspect which it would necessarily present, if every
addition by the American editor had been included within brackets, or printed
in varied type.

This edition has been greatly altered from the original. Many articles of
little interest to Americans have been curtailed, or wholly omitted, and much
new matter, with numerous illustrations, added; yet the present editor freely
admits, and has desired the publishers to state, that he has only followed in the
path 80 admirably marked out by Mr. Johnson, to whom the chief merit of the
work belongs. It has been an object with the publishers, and editor, to inc. ease
its popular character, thereby adapting it to the larger class of horticultural
readers in this country, and they trust it may prove what they have desired it to
be, an Encyclopaedia of Gardening, if not of Rural Affairs, so condensed as to
be within reach of most persons whom those subjects interest.

THE PUBLISHERS.

Philadelphia, April, 1S47.

NOTE.

It is evident that with a territory extending over so large a space, a monthly calendar,
ordireclion for cropping, &,c., cannot uniformly apply : Those who reside north or south
of Pennsylvania, can readily make the necessary calculations as to time.

\8 ^

THE

GARDENERS' DICTIONARY.

ABE

ABELE TREE. (Populus alba.)

ABLACTATION, the same as In-
arching, and so called because it is
a gradual withdrawing of the scion from
its parent, the same as weaning, which
in Latin is ahlactatio.

ABLAQUEATIONjbaring the bodies
of a tree's main roots. This was an old
mode of checking the tree's over luxu-
riance, for the purpose of making it fer-
tile. A much less injurious plan is to
drain the soil, and mix it with sand,
chalk, or other less rich addition. An-
other method successfully pursued is to
open a trench around the body, at a
suitable distance, thus shortening the
roots, and arresting the tree's rapid
growth.

ABNODATION, cutting off excres-
cences and the slumps of branches
close to the stem. The intention of
this is to have the wound heal over,
but it is very doubtful, in the case of
branches, whether the extremity of a
stump properly treated will not heal
quicker than a wound close to the
trunk. The unsightly aspect of pro-
truding stumps will, however, induce
close pruning.

ABRICOCK, an old mode of spelling
Apricot, Armeniaca vulgaris.

ABRAXAS grossularia. Magpie
Moth. The caterpillar of this moth
often infests the leaves of the gooseber-
ry bush, as well as the currant, sloe,
and even the peach, in eariv summer.
" The caterpillar," says Mr. Curtis, " is
white, slightly tinged with blue, and
having numerous black spots on the
back ; it is called a looper, from its pe-
culiar mode of walking ; it fixes itself
first firmly with its hind feet, and then
extends its body fully ; after which it
puts down its f<ire feet, and draws the
hind part of its body as close afler them
2

AC A

as possible, thus forming an arch or
loop." — Gard. Chron.

ABROMA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Seed or cuttings.
Loam and peal.

ABRONIA. Two species. Hardy
perennial trailers. Rooted slips. Sandy
peat.

. AQKVS precaforius. Wild Liquorice.
Stove climber. Cuttings. Sand and
peat.

ABUTA rufescens. Stove evergreen
climber. Rooted slips. Loam and
peat.

ABUTILON. Three species. One
stove, and two green-house evergreen
shrubs. Cuttings. Light rich loam.
A. striatum. Green-house shrub. " As
this seems likely to suit a bed in the
flower garden, to increase it keep it in
the stove, as it will there push even in
winter, and every two joints will be
sufficient for a cutting, which will make
a plant in a fortnight or three weeks.
By the time the cutting has pushed far
enough to admit of being topped, ano-
ther cutting may be made of it, and pro-
ceeded with as before. If kept in the
green-house during winter it will not
move at all." — Gard. Chron.

ACACIA. 274 species, stove and
green-house evergreens. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

AC/ENA splendens. Green-house
evergreen. Seed. Loam and peat.

ACANTHOPHIPPIUM. Three spe-
cies. Stove epiphytes. Offsets. Sandy
peat and light loam.

ACANTHUS. Bear's Breech. Eight
species. Six hardy herbaceous peren-
nials ; division of roots. One green-
house perennial ; seed. One stove
evergreen; cuttings. All require sandy
peat and loam.

ACARUS, the Plant Mite. Class

AC A

n

ACC

Arachnidae. The following arc the
chief of those known to the gardener.
Acarus tellarhta, the Red Spide7-, is one
of the gardener's most troublesome
foes. Its colour varies from yellowish
to red-brown, and though almost invi-
sible from its minuteness, yet it preys
most destructively upon some trees and
herbaceous plants in our hot-houses,
jis well as upon the kidney-bean, lime
tree, &c., out of doors in dry summers.
A. holosericeus is another species, dis-
tinguishable to an unscienced eye
chiefly by its scarlet colour. To de-
stroy them in the hothouse, there is no
plan so effectual as heating the flues or
pipes, and sprinkling upon them sul-
pliur. The air is thus gently impreg-
nated with the vapour of sulphur, for it
liegins to evaporate at a heat of 170^.
This vapour is fatal to the insect where
the air is thoroughly impregnated with
it, and the work of destruction is com-
pleted by syringing the infested plants
with water. This last is the only prac-
tical remedy to plants in our borders,
unless they can be covered over so that
the fumes may be confined, whilst the
sulphur is volatilized over a hot-water
plate. Potted plants maybe submitted
to the vapour of sulphur in a similar
way. The vapour of spirit of turpen-
tine is said to be as effectual- as sulphur.
Acarm hortcnsis, the Garden Mite, tho-
rax ochreous, abdomen white, has been
found upon the roots of the cucumber,
upon w hich it is said to prey. I believe
it to be the same Acarus often so abund-
ant upon the root of cabbages affected
with the Ambury. A. genicvlatus is a
minute, red, shining mite, gregarious,
and congregating during spring in pro-
digious numbers upon the bark of the
plum and other fruit trees, near the base
of the twigs, and looking like a gummy
exudation. By extracting the sap they
doubtless weaken the tree, and reduce
its productiveness. — Card. Chron.

ACER. Maple. Twenty- seven spe-
cies, all hardy trees except Acer ob/on-
gUTfi, which is half-hardy. The Sugar
Maple, A. saccharinum of the Ameri-
can forests, is perhaps one of the finest
fpecies. It forms a full round head, its
deep green leaves changing in autumn
to many shades of orange. The Silver
Maple, A. dcsycarpum, is a light airy
tree, of quick growth, and extensively
planted in the streets of Philadelphia.
A. platanoides, or Norway Maple, and

A. pseudo-platanoides, or Sycamore, are
also desirable varieties. Seed, cuttings,
and layers. Common light garden soil.

ACERAS. Two species, both tube-
rous-rooted hardy perennials. Seeds.
Light loam.

ACERATIUM oppositifolium. Stove
evergreen shrub. Peat and loam. Cut-
tings.

ACETARIOUS PLANTS. Salading.

ACCLIMATIZATION is rendering a
plant capable of the production desired
in a climate differing from that in which
it is native. In our climate it is usually
required to induce a plant to endure
lower temperatures than those to which
it has been accustomed, and this, though
some are intractable, is more easy than
is inducing the natives of colder re-
gions to live in our latitudes. When a
new plant arrives from a tropical coun-
try, it is desirable to use every precau-
tion to avoid its loss, but so soon as it
has been propagated from, and the dan-
ger of such loss is removed, from that
moment ought experiments to com-
mence, to ascertain whether its acclima-
tization is attainable. That this should
be done is self-evident; tor the nearer
such a desirable point can be attained,
the cheaper will be its cultivation, and
consequently the greater will be the
number of those who will be able to de-
rive pleasure from its growth. Hence
it is very desirable that an extended se-
ries of experiments should be instituted,
to ascertain decisively whether many of
our present green-house plants would
not endure exposure to our winters, if
but slightly or not at all protected. It
may be laid down as a rule, that all
Japan plants will do so in the southern
states, but it remains unascertained to
what degree of northern latitude this
general^ power of endurance extends.
Experiment, and experimentonly, ought
to be relied upon ; for we know that
the larch was once kept in a green-
house in England. Many tropical
plants of every order and species, have
been found to require much less heat,
both during the day and during the
night, than gardeners of a previous cen-
tury believed. Other plants than those
already noticed have passed from the
tropics to our parterres, and even to
those of higher northern latitudes. The
horse chestnut is a native of the tropics,
but it endures uninjured the stern cli-
mate of Sweden. Aucuba Japonica and

ACC

19

ACH

PcBonta Moutan, we all remember to I May ; the soil should be poor, dry, and
have passed from our stoves to the i thoroughly drained; if against a wall,
green-house, and now they are in our I the border should be protected through
open gardens. Every year renders us the entire winter by a roof of hurdles
acquainted with instances of plants thatched with straw, and projecting
being acclimatized : and, in addition to . about three feet."

' ACHILLEA. Milfoil. Sixty-four spe-

cies, all, except A. AUgyptica, herba-
ceous perennials. Common garden soil.
Divisio-n of roots. A. JEgyptica is a
green-house evergreen. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

ACHIMENES. Six species. Stove
bulbs. "After the plants have done
flowering, and the to()s die down, in
November, allow the bulbs to remain
undisturbed in the pots, laid on their
sides beneath the green-house st:ige, or
some other place where frost and wet
cannot reach them, where they may re-
main until the latter part of January,
then to be placed in a gentler heat, and
watered until the soil becomes suffi-
ciently moist to encourage vegetation.
When the small scaly bulhs have made
shoots about two inches in length, plant
them singly in small sixties, in a mixture
of leaf mould and a small portion of sil-
ver sand. At the subsequent sliifling,
until the plants are finally placed in six-
teens in June, the compost consists of
light rich turf loam and peat, or leaf
mould, when peat cannot be i)rocured
in equal proportions, and on no account
sifted. The pots are thoroughly drained,
a point which forms the basis of all
good culture, both in pots and in the
open ground. For growing several
plants in one pot, take No. 12 size, into
which turn five of the plants jjreviously
kept in sixties, placing one in the cen-
tre, and four round the edges. These
forma noble mass when in bloom ; but
never assume the unilbrm conical shape

those already noticed, we find that Mr,
Buchan, Lord Bagot's gardener, at
Blithficld House, in Staflbrdshire, has an
old cinnamon tree (Tyiurus Cinnamo-
mum) under his care, which ripens seed:
from these many plants have been raised
that endure the winters of England in a
conservatory without any artificial lieat.
Then, again, there is no doubt that all
the conifera; of Mexico, which flourish
there at an elevation of more than SOOO
feet above the sea's level, will survive
our winters in the open air. Among
these are Pinus Llaveana, P. Teocate, P.
patula, P. Hartwegii, Cupressus thuri-
fera, Juiiiperus flacc Ida, Ahics religiosa,
and some others. Many natives of the
southern states have been gradually ac-
climated in Pennsylvania; experience
has, however, demonstrated that the na-
ture of the soil is all-important. On
sandy or light loamy land with gravelly
subsoil, many plants are found to witli-
stand the winter, which would surely
perish on heavy or wet land. So also
the aspect as regards exposure to the
sun, it having been found from repeated
observation that tender plants, espe-
cially if evergreen, suffer less from cold
when screened from the sun's rays. The
cause is obvious. An extensive impor-
tation of European Holly received at
the Landreth Nurseries, were, as a pro-
tection from the summer sun, planted
on the north side of a high board fence,
where they safely resisted the severity
of winter : subsequently they were
placed in open positions, and all were

killed by the combined action of heat j of a single s;)ecimen. The main stem

and cold. The following general rules
are the results of experiments in the
London Horticultural Society's Garden,
conducted by Mr. Gordon. 1. " Plants
intended to be acclimatized, should
never be subjected to artificial heat dur^

and side branches are to be neatly
sticked and tied out as they advance in
growth. The temperature of an early
vinery is well adapted for these plants
until the end of May, at which period
they should be taken to a cool pit, where

ing the winter that precedes their being ! a steady moist heat can be maintained,
planted out; if obtained from seeds, as 1 They should be shaded in hot days be-
little heat as possible should be em- tween 11 A.M. ami 2 P. M., to prevent
ployed in raising them ; and starved or 1 the sun from scorching the foliage, and
stunted plants are more likely to sue- ' they should never be watered over-
ceed than such as have been forced into '. head. The pots should be placed upon
a rapid and luxuriant growth. 2. The I others, inverted, and the bottom of the
plants should not be committed to the 1 pit should be kept moist, closing up
open ground earlier than the end of early in the afternoon, and giving air in

ACH

20

ACT

clear weather about eijjht in the morn-
ing, so that the damp may disperse be-
fore the raysofthe sun fall directly up-
on the plants." — Card. Cliron.

A. Long/flora. " Tlie bulbs of this
may be started in a warm cucumber
frame towards the end of P'ebruary.
Each plant, when it has formed a few
leaves, should then be potted off, sepa-
rately, into small pots, or, preferably,
several may be planted together in a
shallow box. The temperature of a
warm green-house suits them admira-
bly."— Card. Chron.

ACHYRONIA villosa. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

ACIANTHUS. Three species. Tu-
berous green-house plants. Division.
Loam and peat.

ACICARPHA spatidata. Herba-
ceous stove perennial. Division. Loam
and peat.

ACIOTIS. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

ACIS. Four species. Hardy bulbs.
Offsets. Sandy loam.

ACISANTHERA quadrata. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

ACMADENIA tetragona. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

ACMENA Jloribi^nda. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy
loam.

ACONITUM. Eighty species hardy
deciduous tubers; and thirty-four spe-
cies hardy herbaceous perennials. " A.
Napellus, from napus, a turnip, its gru-
mous roots resembling little turnips, is
n well known poisonous plant. Lin-
naaus says, that it is fatal to kine and
goats, especially when they come fresh
to it, and are not acquainted with the
plant; but that it does no injury to
horses, who eat it only when dry. He
also relates (from the Stockholm Acts)
that an ignorant surgeon prescribed the I radicle and plumule, the infant root and

root is unquestionably the most power-
ful partofthe plant. Matthiolus relates,
that a criminal was put to death by
taking one drachm of it. Dodonseus
gives us an instance, recent in his time,
of five persons at Antwerp, who ate the
root by mistake, and ail died. Dr,
Turner also mentions, that some French-
men at the same place, eating the
shoots of this plant for those of master-
wort, all died in the course of two days,
e.xcept two players, who quickly evacu-
ated all that they had taken by vomit.
We have an account, in the Philosophi-
cal Transactions, of a man who was
poisoned, in the year 1732, by eating
some of this plant in a salad, instead of
celery. Dr. Willis also, in his work De
Anima Brutorum, gives an instance of a
man who died in a few hours, by eating
the tender leaves of this plant also in
a salad. He was seized with all the
symptoms of mania. Tlie Aconite,
thus invested with terrors, has, how-
ever, been so far subdued, as to become
a powerful remedy in some of the most
troublesome disorders incident to the
human frame. Baron Stoerck led the
way by administering it in violent pains
of the side and joints, in glandulous
scirrhi, tumours, ulcerous tubercles of
the breast, &c., to the quantity of from
ten to thirty grains in a dose, of an ex-
tract, the method of making which he
describes." — Encyc. Plants. Division.
Common garden soil. All are poison-
ous.

ACRO'N Y CHI A cunningh ami. Green-
house shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

ACROPERA loddigesii. Stove epi-
phyte. Division. Peat and potsherds.

ACROPHYLLUM verticillatum.
Green-house shrub. Cuttings. Loam
and pent.

ACROSPIRE is the name whereby
malsters, gardeners, and others describe
the sprouts from barley and other seeds
when germinating, and which are the

leaves, and on the patient refusing to

take them, he took them himself and

died. The ancients, who were ac

quainted with chemical poisons, regard

ed the Aconite as the most violent ofi house plants. Division and seed

all poisons. Some persons, only by j and peat.

taking in the effluvia of the herb in full I ACROTRICHE. Threes

flower by the nostrils, have been seized Green-house evergreen shrubs.

with swooning fits, and have lost their | tings. Sandy peat.

eight for two or three days. Cut the

stem.

ACROSTICHUM. Sixteen species.
Chiefly stove herbaceous perennials.
A. alcicorne and A. grande are green-
Loam

ACTINOMERIS. Four species.

ACT

21

Divi-

Hardy liorbaceous perennials
■ion. Pent and loam.

ACTINOTUS. Two species. Green-
house herbaceous perennials. Division.
Sandy loam.

A C Y N O S. Eleven species. All
hardy. Seeds. Dry sandy soil.

AD AM I. \ cyanea. Stove evergreen
shrub. Cuttinsrs. Peat and loam.

ADAM'S NEEDLE. Yucca.

ADDKR'S TONGUE. Opioglossum.

ADELIA. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

ADENANDR.\. Thirteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

ADENANTHERA. Two species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandv loam and peat.

ADENANTHOS. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Sandy peat and loam. A.obo-
vata is best iVoin seed.

ADENOCARPUS. Six species. A.
foliolosus and frankenl aides are ever-
green shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam.
The others are hardy deciduous shrubs.
Seeds. Common garden soil.

ADENOPHORA. Sixteen species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Com-
mon garden soil. Peat and loam.

ADESMIA. Eight species, of which
A. viscosa is hardy. The others are
green-house plants. A.visrosa and us-
pallatenais are propagated by cuttings.
The others from seed. All in sandy
loam.

ADIANTUM. Maidenhair. Twen-
ty-nine species. All green-house or
etove plants, except /I. C(/p(7/«s veneris
and puhescens. They are hardy herba-
ceous perennials. Division. Loam and
peat.

ADINA glnbijlora. Stove evergreen
shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.
ADLUMIA cirrhosa. Hardy climb-
ing biennial. Seeds. Sandy loam.

ADONIS. Thirteen species. All
hardy. Seed. Common garden soil.

TEGIPniLA. Seven species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peal.

7EGLE marmelos. Bengal Quince.
Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Loam.

^CIIMEA. Three species. Stove
perennials. Suckers. Loam, peat, and
sand.
iEGOCHLOA. Six species. All hardy ;

A G A

Seeds. Light rich gardea
Stove

annuals,
soil.

iEOLLANTHUS suaveolens.
annual. Seeds. Sandy loam.

iEONIUM Youngiannm. Green-
house. Cuttings. Sandy loam.

.1':SCHYNANT1IUS. Two species.
Stove epiphytes. Cuttings. Peat and
potsherds, or wood.

7ESCULUS. Horse-chestnut.
JE. glabra. (Grafts.)
yE. hippocastanum, Jlore plena. (Lay-
ers.)
jS. hippocastanum, fol. argenteis. (Lay-
ers.)
^■E. hippocnstanum variegatum.
jE. ohiensis.
JE. fallida. (Grafts.)
JE. rubicunda. (Grafts.)
All hardy deciduous trees. The com-
mon European horse-chestnut jE. hip-
pocastanum, is a truly magnificent tree,
at once grand from its magnitude and
massy form, and beautiful when in
bloom from being covered with large
spikes of white and pink flowers, pro-
truding beyond its elegant digitate
leaves. Seeds (except where other-
wise described). Common garden soil.

AERANTHES. Two species. Stove
epiphytes. Division. Peat and pot-
sherds, or wood.

AF2RIDES, {air plant.) Nine spe-
cies. All stove epiphytes. Cuttings,
except A. cornutum, which is multi-
plied by root-divisions. Peat and pot-
sherds, or wood.

iERUA. Two species. Stove her-
baceous perennials. Cuttings. Rich
moist soil.

.^:SCYNOMENE. Eleven species.
JE. viscidula a green-house, and /J?.
hixpida a hardy annual, the rest stove
plants. Seeds. Sandy loam.

yV/FHIONEMA. Six species. All
hardy. Seed or cuttings. Common
soil.

^■ITHIONIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Common soil.

AFRICAN ALMOND. Brahejum.

AFRICAN FLEABANE. Tarcho-
nanthus.

AFRICAN LILY. Agapanthus.

AFRICAN MARIGOLD. Tagetes
Erect a.

AGAPANTHUS. African Lily.
Three species. Nearly hardy bulbs.
Common soil. Offsets.

AGASTACHYS odorata. Green-

AG A

32

AGR

house evergreen shrub
Loam, peat, and sand.

AGATH/RA. Two species. Green-
house everfjreen shrubs. Young cut-
tinpp. Lf>:im and peat.

ACA'I'IIOPHYLLUM aromaticum.
Madagascar nutmeg. Stove evergreen
tree. Cuttings. Peat or rich loam.

AGATHOSMA. Twenty-two spe-
cies. Green-houf-e evergreen shrubs.
Cuttings. Peat and loam.

A(;ATHYIISUS. Seven species.

Cuttings. I arts and sciences." It is " tlie basis of
j all other arts, and in all countries co-
eval with the first dawn of civilization.
Without agriculture, mankind would be
savages, lliinly scattered through inler-
minal)le forests, with no other habita-
tions than caverns, hollow trees or huts,
more rude and inconvenient than the
most ordinary hovel or cattle-shed of
the modern cultivator. It is the most
universal as well as the most ancient of
the arts, and requires the greatest num-

visions. Common soil.

AGATI. Two species. Stove ever-

Hardy herbaceous. Cuttings and di- j her of operators. It employs seven

eighths of the population of almost
every civilized community. — Agricul-
green trees. Cuttings. Peat and loam, ture is not only indispensable tonation-
AOAVK. Aloe. Nineteen species, al prosperity, but is eminently condu-
Chiefly stove plants. Suckers. Rich cive to the welfare of those who are
loam. " The name is altered from engaged in it. It gives health to the
ctyrtw.t., admirable, which this genus may body, energy to the mind, is fiivourable
well be said to be, considering its ap- to virtuous and temperate habits, and to
pearance, its size, and the beauty of its knowledge and purity of moral charac-
flowers. In mythology, Agave is the ter, which are the pillars of good gov-
name of one of the Nereids. A. america- ernmentand the true support ofnation-
«a is a popularsucculent throughout Eu- ' al independence. — Witii regard to the
rope. It grows wild or is acclimated in i history of agriculture, we must confine
Sicily, the south of Spain, and Italy, and I ourselves to slight sketches. The first
is much used in the latter country, plant- j mention of agriculture is found in the
ed in vases as an ornament to piers, pa- : writings of Moses. From them we learn
rapets, and about houses. About Milan j that Cain was a ' tiller of the ground,'
and other towns in Lombardy, where it that Abel sacrificed the 'firstlings of
will not endure the winter, they use i his flock,' and that Noah 'began to be
imitations of copper so well formed and! a husbandman, and planted a vineyard.'

painted, as to be readily mistaken for
the original. In France and Germany
it is still \ery common ; and. in this
country formerly used to be the regular
companion of the orange, myrtle, and
pomegranate, then our principal green-
house plants. An idea used to prevail
that the American Aloe only flowered
once in a hundred years; but, inde-
pendently of this unnatural application
of time to the inflorescence, it has long
been known to flower sooner or later
according to the culture bestowed on
it.= ' — Encyc. Plants.

The Chinese, Japanese, Chaldeans,
Egyptians and Phoenicians appear to
have held husbandry in high estimation.
The Egyptians were so sensible of its
blessings, that they ascribed its inven-
tion to superhuman agency, and even
carried their gratitude to such an ab-
surd excess as to worship the ox, for his
services as a labourer. The C;irthagin-
ians carried the art of agriculture to a
higher degree than other nations, their
cotemporaries. Mago, one of their
most famous generals, wrote no less
than twenty-eight books on agricultural

AGERATUM. Six species. Chiefly : topics, which, according to Columella,
hardy annuals. Seed. Light rich soil. ' were translated into Latin by an express

AGNOSTUS sinuata. Green-house : decree of the Roman senate. — Hesiod,
evergreen tree. Cuttings. Sandy peat. ' a Greek writer, supposed to be cotem-

AGRJCULTURE, as compared to i porary with Homer, wrote a poem on
Horticulture, is the culture and man- agriculture, entitled JVccks and Days,
Rgement of certain plants and animals j which was so denominated because hus-
for the food and service of man : it is, as i bandry requires an exact observance of
Marshall observes, "a subject which, I times and seasons. Other Greek writ-
viewed in all its branches, and to their ers wrote on rural economy, and Xeno-
fullest extent, is not only the most im- phnn among the number, but their
portant and the most diificult in rural | works have been lost in the lapse of
economies, but in the circle of human ; ages. — The implements of Grecian agri-

AGR

23

AGR

culture were very few and simple. He- | curious antiquarian, tlian of tlie practi-
siod mentions a plough, consisting ; cal cultivator. Tlie plough is repre-
of three parts — the share-beam, the , scnted by Cato as of two kinds — one for
draught-pole and the plough-tail; but , strong, the other for light so:is. Varro
antiquarians are not agreed as to its ! mentions one with two mould-boards*,
exact form ; also a cart with low wheels, ] with which, he says, 'when they
and ten spans (seven feet six inches) in ■ plough, after sowing the seed, they are
width; likewise the rake, sickle and said to ridge.' Pliny mentions a plough
ox-goad; but no description is given of with one mould-board, and others with
the mode in which they were con- , a coulter, of wliich he says there were
structed. The operations of Grecian many kinds. — Fallowing was a practice
culture, according to Hesiod, were rarely deviated from by the Romans,
neither numerous nor complicated. The In most cases, a fallow and a year's
ground received three ploughings — one crop succeeded each other. M. inure
in autumn, another in spring, and a third , was collected from nearly or quite as
immediately before sowing the seed, i many sources as hav6 been resorted to
Manures were applied, and Pliny as- '■ by the moderns. Pigeon's dung was
cribes their invention to the Grecian esteemed of the greatest value, and,
king Augeas. Theophrastus mentions next to that, a mixture of night soil,
six different species of manures, and scrapings of the streets and urine,
adds, that a mixture of soils produces * which were applied to the roots of the
the same effect as manures. Clay, he , vine and olive. — The Romans did not
observes, should be mixed with sand, i bind their corn into sheaves. When
and sand with clay. Seed was sown cut, it was sent directly to the area to
by hand, and covered with a rake. ■ be threshed, and was separated from
Grain was reaped with a sickle, bound the chaff by throwing it from one part of
in sheaves, threshed, then winnowed by ; the floor to the other. Feeding down
wind, laid in chests, bins or granaries, | grain, when too luxuriant, was practised,
and taken out as wanted by the fainily, Virgil says, ' What commendation shall
to be pounded in mortars or (juern mills I give to him, who, lest his corn should
into meal. — The ancient Romans vene- lodge, pastures it, while young, as soon
rated the plough, and, in the earliest as the blade equals the furrow !' (Gear.,
and purest times of the republic, the : lib. i., 1. 111.) Watering ,on a large
greatest praise which could be given to 1 scale was applied both to arable and
an illustrious character was to say that ' grass lands. Virgil advises to 'bring
he was an industrious and judicious hus- down the waters of a river upon the
bandman. M. Cato, the censor, who sown corn, and, when the field is
was celebrated as a statesman, orator parched and the plants drying, convey
and general, having conquered nations it from the Ynow of a hill in channels.'
and governed provinces, derived his (Geor., lib. i., I. 106.) — The farm man-
highest and most durable honours from agemcnt most approved of by the sci-
having written a voluminous work on entific husbandmen of Rome was, in
agriculture. In the Georgics of Vir- general, such as would nieet the appro-
gil, the majesty of verse and the har- bation of modern cultivators. The im-
mony of numbers add dignity and grace portance of thorough tillage isillustrated
to the most useful of all topics. The by the following apologue : A vine-
celebrated Columella flourished in the dresser had two daughters and a vine-
reign of the Kn)peror Claudius, and yard; when his oldest daughter was

he wrote twelve books on husbandry,
which constituted a complete treatise
on rural affairs. Varro, Pliny and Pal-
Jadius were likewise among the distin-
guished Romans who wrote on agricul-

married, he gave her a third of his vine-
yard for a portion, notwithstanding
which he had the same quantity of fruit
as formerly. When his youngest daugh-
ter was married, he gave her half of

tural subjects. — With regard to the Ro- , wiiat remained ; still the produce of his
man implements of agriculture, we , vineyard was undiminished. This re-
Jearn that they used a great many, but : suit was tlio consequence of his bestow-
their particular forms and uses are very ; ingas much labour on the third part left
imperfectly described. From what we after his daughters had received their
can ascertain respecting them, they ap- \ portions, as he had been accustomed to
pear more worthy of the notice of the Igive to the whole vineyard. — The Ro-

AG R

24

AGR

mans, unlike many conqnerors, instead ] times. The various operations of hns-
of desolating, improved the countries bandry, such as manuring, ploughing,
which they subdued. They seldom or i sowing, harrowing, reaping, threshing,
never burned or laid waste conquered ! winnowing, &c., are incidentally men-

countries, but laboured to civilize the
inhabitants, and introduce the arts ne-
cessary for promoting their comfort and
happiness. To facilitate communica-
tions from one district or town to an-
other, seems to have been a primary

tioned by the writers of those days, but
it is impossible to collect from thein a
definite account of the manner in which
those operations were performed. —
The first English treatise on husbandry
was published in the reign of Henry

object with them, and their works of j VIII., by Sir A. Fitzherbert, Judge of
this kind are still discernible in nume- the Common Pleas. It is entitled the
rous places. By employing their troops ! Book of Husbandry, and contains direc-

in this way, when not engaged in active
service, their commanders seem to have
had greatly the' advantage over our
modern generals. The Roman soldiers,
instead of loitering in camps, or rioting
in towns, enervating their strength, and
corrupting their morals, were kept re-
gularly at work, on objects highly bene-
ficial to the interests of those whom the_v
subjugated. — In the ages of anarchy
and barbarism which succeeded the fall
of the Roman empire, agriculture was
almost wholly abandoned. Pasturage
was preferred to tillage, because of the
facility with which sheep, o.xen, &c.,
fan be driven away or concealed on
the approach of an enemy. — The con-
quest of England by the Normans con-
tributed to the improvement of agri-
culture in Great Britain. Owing to that
event, many thousands of husbandmen,
from the fertile and well-cultivated
plains of Flanders and Normandy, set-
tled in Great Britain, obtained farms,
and employed the same methods in cul-
tivating them, wliich the^had been ac-
customed to use in their native coun-

tions for draining, clearing and enclos-
ing a farm, for enriching the soil, and
rendering it fit for tillage. Lime, marl
and fallowing are strongly recommend-
ed. ' The author of the Book of Hus-
bandry,' says Mr. Loudon, ' writes
from his own experience of more than
forty years, and, if we except his biblical
allusions, and some vestiges of the su-
perstition of the Roman writers about
the influence of the moon, there is very
little of his work which should be omit-
ted, and not a great deal that need be
added, in so far as respects the culture
of corn, in a manual of husbandrv adapt-
ed to the present time.' — Agriculture
attained some eminence during the
reign of Elizabeth. The principal writ-
ers of that period were Tusser, Googe
and Sir Hugh Piatt. Tusser's Five
Hundred Points of Husbandry was pub-
lished in 1562, and conveys much use-
ful instruction in metre. The treatise
of Barnaby Googe, entitled Whole Art
of Husbandry, was printed in 1558. Sir
Hugh Piatt's work was entitled Jewel
Houses of Art and Nature, and was

tries. Some of the Norman barons printed in 1594. In the former work,
were great improvers of their lands, and says Loudon, are many valuable hints
were celebrated in history for their skill i on the progress of husbandry in the early
in agriculture. The Norman clergy, : part of the reign of Elizabeth. Among
.ind especially the monks, did still more i other curious things, he asserts that the
in this way than the nobility. The ' Spanish or Merino sheep was originally
monks of every monastery retained such derived from England. — Several writers
of their lands as they could most con- | on agriculture appeared in England dur-
veniently take charge of, and these they ing the commonwealth, whose names,
cultivated with great care under their i with notices of their works, may be seen
own inspection, and frequently with | in Loudon's Encyclopidia of Agricul-
their own hands. The famous Thomas ture. From the Restoration down to
a Becket, after he was Archbishop of [ the middle of the eighteenth century,
Canterbury, used to go out into the field | agriculture remained almost stationary.

^ith the monks of the monastery where
he happened to reside, and join with
them in reaping their corn and making

Immediately after that period , consider-
able improvement in the process of cul-
ture was introduced by Jethro Tull, a

their hay. The implements of agricul- ! gentleman of Berkshire, who began to
^ire, at this period, were similar to 1 drill wheat and other crops about the
ihose in most cornmon use in modern I year 1701, and whose Horse-hoeing

AGR

25

AI T

Husbandry was published in 1731.
Though this writer's theories were in
some respects erroneous, yet even his
errors were of service, by exciting in-
quiry, and calling the attention of hus-
bandmen to ini[)ort3nt objects. His
hostility to manures, and attempting, in
all cases, to substitute additional tillage
in their place, were prominent defects in
his system. — After the time of Tull's
publication, no great alteration in Bri-
tish agriculture took place, till Robert
Bakevvell and others effected some im-
portant improvements in the breed of
cattle, sheep and swine. By skilful
selection at first, and constant care
afterwards to breed from the best ani-
mals, Bakewell at last obtained a va-
riety of sheep, which, for early maturity
and the property of returning a great
quantity of mutton for the food which
they consume, as well as for the small
proportion which the weight of the offal
bears to the four quarters, were with-
out precedent. Culiey, Cline, Lord
Somcrville, Sir J. S. Sebright, Darwin,
Hunt, Hunter, Young, &c. &c., have all
contributed to the improvement of do-
mestic animals, and have left little to
be desired in that branch of rural econo-
my.— Among other works on agricul-
ture, of distinguished merit, may be
mentioned the Farmer's Letters, Tour
in France, Annals of Agriculture, &c.
&c., by the celebrated Arthur Young ;
Marshall's numerous and excellent
works, commencing with Minutes of
Agriculture, published in 1787, and
ending with his Review of the Agricul-
tural Reports in 1816; Practical Agri-
culture, by Dr. R. W. Dickson, &c. &c.
The writings of Kaimes, Anderson and
Sinclair exhibit a union of philosopliical
sagacity and patient experiment, which
have produced results of great import-
ance to the British nation and to the
world. To these we shall only add the
name of John Loudon, F. L. S. H. S.,
whose elaborate Encyclopaedia of Gar-
dening and Encyclopedia of Agricul-
ture have probably never been sur-
passed by any similar works in any
Janguage. — The establishment of a
national Board of Agriculture was of
very great service to 13ritish iiusbandry.
Hartlib, a century before, and Lord
Kaimes, in his Gentleman Farmer, had
pointed outthe utility of such an institu-
tion, but it was left to Sir John Sinclair
to carry their ideas into execution. To

the indefatigable exertions of that wor-
thy and eminent man the British public
are indebted for an institution, whose
services cannot be too highly appre-
ciated. ' It made farmers, residing in
different parts of the kingdom, acquaint-
ed with one another, and caused a rapid
dissemination of knowledge amongst
the whole profession. The art of agri-
culture was brought into fashion, old
practices were amended, new ones in-
troduced, and a degree of exertion call-
ed forth heretofore unexampled among
agriculturists im this island.' " — Encyc.
Am.

AGRIMONIA. Agrimony. Nine
species. Hardy. Division. Commoa
soil.

AGROMYZA viola. Pansy Fly.
It attacks the flower by puncturing the
petal, and extracting the juice; the
puncture causes the colouring matter to
fade. This very minute fly is shining
black, bristly, eyes green, head orange.
It appears in May and lives throughout
the summer. Where it deposits its
eggs is unknown. — Card. Chron.

AGROSTEMMA. Four species.
Hardy herbaceous. Division. Common
soil.

AILANTUS. Two species. Hardy
deciduous trees. The glandulosa is of
rapid growth, and thrives admirably on
light thin soils, where many forest trees
do not succeed — it is objectionable by
reason of suckering, and to many from
the unpleasant odour of the flowers.
Cuttings. Loamy peat.

AIR. Atmospheric air is uniformly
and universally composed of
Oxygen'. ... 21
Nitrogen ... 79

Every 100 parts, even in the driest
weather, containing, in solution, one
part of Water; and every 1000 parts
having admixed about one part of Car-
bonic Acid. The average proportions
are

Air 98.9

Watery Vapour . 1.0
Carbonic Acid Gas 0.1

All these are absolutely necessary to
every plant to enable it to vegetate with
all the vigour of which it is capable; and
on its due state of moistness depends, in
a great measure, the health of any plant
requiring the protection of glass. See
Leaves, Roots, Stove.

AITONIA capensis. Green-house.
Cuttings. Rich mould.

A J U

26

ALS

AJUGA. Bugle. Elevpn species. | fixed kinds, one was called potash or
Hardy. Division or seed. Sandy ped.t \vegelable, because procured from the

Bli/^hia snpida.
Two species. Stove
Cuttings. Sandy

or ]o;im

AKEK-TREE.

ALANGIUM.
evergreen trees
loam.

ALBUCA. Nineteen species. Green-
house bulbs. Oftsets. Sandy loam
and peat.

ALBURNUM. The soft white sub- j
stance which in trees is found between
the liber or inner bark and the wood,
and in progress of time acquiring solid-
ity, becomes itself the wood. A new
layer of wood, or rather of alburnum is
added annually to the tree in every
part, just under the bark.

ALCHEMILLA. Ladies' Mantle.
Eleven species. Chiefly hardy. Seeds
or division. Common soil.

ALCOVE, is a seat in a recess,
formed of stone, brick, or other dead
material, and so constructed as to shel-
ter the party seated from the north and
other colder quarters, whilst it is open
in front to the south.

ALDER. Alnus.

ALETRIS. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous plants. Oiisets. Peat or
leafsoil.

ALEURITES. Two species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loamy
soil.

ALEXANDRIAN LAUREL. Rus-
CVS Racemosus.

ALHAGL Manna. Two species.
Green-house plants. Young cuttings or
seed. Sandy loam and peat.

"ALKALI, in cliemistry ; from the
Arabian kali, the name of a plant from
the ashes of which one species of alkali
can be extracted. The true alkalies
have been arranged by a modern che-
mist in three classes: — 1, those which
consist of a metallic basis, combined
with oxygen ; these are three in num-
ber— potash, soda and lithia; 2, that
which contains no oxygen, viz., ammo-
nia ; 3, those containing oxygen, hydro-
gen and carbon ; in this class are placed
aconita, atropia, hrucia, cicutn, datura,
delphia, hyoscyamia, morphia, strych-
nia. And it is supposed that the vege-
table alkalies may be found to be as nu-
merous as the vegetable acids. The
original distribution of alkaline sub-
Btnnccs was into volatile and fixed, the
volatile alkali being known under the

ashes of'vegetables gener:illy; the other,
\soda or mineral, on account of its hav-
ing been principally obtained from the
incineration ofmarine plants.'' — Encyc.
Am. The sulphate of ammonia has
been used with success as a stimulant to
vegetable growth — and is now prepared
and sold by chemists for that purpose.

ALLAMANDA cathartica. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich
loamy soil.

ALLANTODIA. Five species.
Green-house herbaceous plants. Di-
vision. Loamy peat.

ALLEYS are of two kinds. 1. The
narrow walks which divide the com-
partments of the kitchen garden ; and
2. Narrow walks in shrubberies and
pleasure-grounds, closely bounded and
overshadowed by the shrubs and trees.

ALLIONIA. Three species. Hardy
annuals. Seeds. Sandy peat or loam.

ALLIUM. Garlic or onion tribe.
126 species. Hardy bulbous plants.
Offsets or seed. Common soil.

ALLSEED. Poly car pon.

ALLSPICE. Caiycanthus.

ALLSPICE-TREE. Pimenta.

ALMOND. Amygdalm.

ALNUS. Alder. Nineteen species.
Hardy deciduous trees. Layers or
seeds. Moist soil.

ALOE. Forty-seven species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Suckers.
Sandy loam and peat.

ALOMIA Ageratoides. Half-hardy
dwarf evergreen plant. Cuttings.
Sandy loam.

ALONSO.-^. Five species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs, except A. cau-
lialata, which is half-hardy. Cuttings
or seeds. Rich mould.

ALOYSIA citriodora. Green-house
deciduous shrub. Cuttings or seeds.
Rich mould.

ALPINIA. Twenty-five species.
Stove herbaceous perennials. Division.
Rich sandy soil.

ALSINE. Chickweed. Six speciee.
Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

ALSODEIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

ALSTONIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Rich light
soil.

ALSTRCEMERIA. Twenty-five spe-

name of ammonia ; while, of the twolcies. The seeds should be sown ira-

ALS

27

ALT

mediately, in sandy loam and rotten j
dung, and kept in a green-house, as 1
tliey will not require lieat. When the j
plants are about an inch high, they may '
be potted singly into very small pots,
and kopt in a growing state till they
have formed their tubers; if suffered to i
die down before that period, they will i
never shoot again, which is the cause of
many persons losing them after they
have got tliem up from seeds. A. acu-
lifoUa is hardy. Tho seeds are sown
in heat in February or March, and the
young plants make their appearance
in about six weeks afterwards. When
strong enough, they are potted singly in
sixty-pots and shifted progressively into
larger sizes, as they require more room ;
and by autumn many of them are full
four feet in lieight. These should be j
kept cool, and rather dry during winter, i
and then planted out against a wall,
where thev are finally to remain. The |
soil for potting them in is light sandy
peat and loam: and when planted out
they should be also placed in a light
sandy soil, two feet deep, on a perfectly |
drv bottom. i

ALTKRNANTHERA. Twelve spe- [
cies. Stove herbaceous; except A.
frutescens, which is a green-house ever-
green. Cuttings. Light rich soil.

ALTFLEA. Marsh mallow. Seven-
teen species. Hardy plants. Division
or seed. Common soil.

ALTIXGIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen trees. Cuttings and
seeds. Deep loamy soil.

ALTITUDE, or elevation above the
sea, has a great influence over a plant's
vegetation. The greater that altitude
the greater the reduction of tempera-
ture, so much so that every GOO feet of
altitu<lc are believed to reduce the an-
nual temperature as much as receding
a degree trom the equator, either to the
north or to the south. But this rule is
far from universally applicable, for the
limit of perpetual snow at the equator
is at the height of 15,000 feet, whereas
in the 3-5ih degree of north latitude, the
limit is at 1 1 ,000 feet, being an average
of about 120 feet of altitude for every
degree of recession from the e(]uator.
In the 4.5lli degree, the limit is 8,400
feet, being an average of 146 feet for
every dpsiree ; in the 50th degree, 6,000
feet, or ISO feet for each degree ; in the
60th, 3,000 feet, or 200 feet for a de-
gree ; and in the 70ih, from 1,200 to

2,000 feet, or abont the same for each
degree as to the 60th degree of latitude.
Now I know of no reason why the tem-
perature of elevations below the snow
line should not follow the saine gra-
dations ; and if this be so, these may
be taken as a rule. All plants growing
above 7,000 feet under the equator,
ought to grow in the open air, in tho
latitude of London. In general, the
same vegetation is produced at the same
distance tVoni the snowline in the same
latitudes; though, when a place is very
near to the pole, a better vegetation is
produced in a short period of summer
th:in in places near the snow line under
the equator, the plants in the former
being there exposed to uninterrupted
sunlight.

" At the foot of Mount Ararat, Tour-
nefoot met with plants peculiar to Ar-
menia; above these he met with plants
which are found also in France ; at a
still greater height he found himself
surrounded with such as grow in Swe-
den, and at the summit, with such aa
vegetate in the polar regions. Baron
Humboldt, in his Personal Narrative,
gives us a similar account of the several
zones of vegetation existing in a height
of 3,730 yards on the ascent of Mount
Teneriffe. The first zone is the region
of vines, extending from the shores of
tlic ocean to a height of from 400 to
600 yards, well cultivated, and produc-
ing date trees, plantains, olives, vines,
and wheat. The second zone is tho
region of laurels, extending from about
600 to 1,800 yards, producing many
plants with showy flowers, and moss
! and grass beneath. The third zone is
' the region of pines, commencing at
1,920 yards, and having a breadth of
850 yards. The fourth zone is the re-
gion of Retami, or broom, growing to
a height of nine or ten feet, and fed on
by wild goats. The last zone is the re-
cion of grasses, scantily covering the
heaps of lava, with cryptogamic plants
intermixed, and the summit ofthe moun-
tain bare." — Farmer's Encyclop.

" Of perfect plants, the Daphne Cne-
orum seems in Europe to hold the most
elevated station, since, on Mont Blanc,
it stands at 10,680 feet, and on Mont
Perdu at 9,036 feet high. The growth
of woody plants ceases on the Alps of
central Europe at the height of 5,000
feet ; and on the Riesengchirge at 3,800.
Oats grow on the southern Alps at

AL Y

28

AM B

3,300, and on tlie northern, scarcely at
1,800 feet. The fir grows on Siilitel-
ina, in Lapland (68 degrees north lati-
tude), scarcely at the height of 1,200
feet. On the other hand, upon the Alps
■which divide Italy from France and

mental plunged at the side of a warm
sandy pond, forming a good contrast
with Crinum, capenae, Nymphcea alba,
&c. About October they are removed
into winter quarters, increase pretty
fast by offsets, taken off and fresh potted

Switzerland, oaks and birches grow at , in April, and treated as the parent bulbs,
3,600; firs at 4,800; and the same i which should at that time have their
plants grow on the Pyrenees above the , decayed outer skin removed." — Gard.

height of 600 feet. In Mexico, the
mountain chains, and in particular the
Nevado of Toluca, are covered, above
12,000 feet high, with the occidental
pine (Pinus occidentalis), and above
9,000 feet, with the Mexican oak (Quer-

Chron.

AMBURY is a disease peculiar to the
Brassica tribe, and is known by the
various names of H anbury. Anbury, and
Club Root. Fingers arid Toes, a name
applied to it in some parts, alludes to

cus Mexicana spicata), as also with the the swollen state of the small roots of
alder, of Joruilo (Alnus Jorullensis). I the affected plants.

On the Andes, palms grow at the height ! Cabbage plants are frequently in-
of 3,000 feet. The woody ferns (Cya- j fected with ambury in the seed-bed,
thea speciosa, Meniscium arborescens, j and this incipient infection appears in
Aspidium rostratuml are found as high the form of a gall or wart upon the
as 6,600 feet; as are also the pepper j stem immediately in the vicinity of the
species, MelastomesB, Cinchona;, Dor- 1 roots. If this wart is opened, it will
steniae ; and some Scitaminese rise to i be found to contain a small white mag-
the same elevation. At the height of|got, the larva of a little insect called
14,760 feet, we still find the wax palms, \ the weevil. If, the gall and its tenant
some CinchoncB, Winterae, Escalloma?, ; being removed, the plant is placed
Espelettii, Culcitia, Joannea;, Vallea j again in the earth, where it is to re-
stipularis, Bolax aretioides, and some ] main, unless it is again attacked, the
others." — De Candolle's Philos. o/i vvound usually heals, and the growth is
Plants. ; little retarded. On the other hand, if

ALYSICARPUS. Two species. Stove j the gall is left undisturbed, the maggot

herbaceous perennials. Seeds, and root
division. Rich light soil.

ALYSSUM. Twenty-one species.
All hardy plants. Seeds, cuttings, and
division. Common soil.

ALYXIA. Five species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy loam.

A L Z A T E A verticillata. Green-
house evergreen tree. Root cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

AMARANTHUS. Eighteen species.
Hardy annuals. Seed. Rich garden
soil.

AMARYLLIS. Seventy-six species,
and many varieties. A. aulica and bel-
ladonna are hardy ; the others, a few
green-house, but mostly hot-house bulbs.

A (Vallota) purpurea. " Pot in good-
sized pots, in a mixture of loam, sandy
peat, and leafmould, being merely
kept in a green-house, with but little
water through the winter, and about
May set in the open air in pans of water,
under a south wall, where about June
or July they throw up their splendid
scarlet flowers, which last fully a week
or more. They would be very orna-

continues to feed upon the alburnum,
or young woody part of the stem, until
the period arrives for its passing into the
other insect form, previously to which it
gnaws its way out through the exterior
bark. The disease is now almost be-
yond the power of remedies. The gall,
increased in size, encircles the whole
stem; the alburnum being so exten-
sively destroyed, prevents the sap as-
cending, consequently, in dry weather,
sufficient moisture is not supplied from
the roots to counterbalance the transpi-
ration of the leaves, and the diseased
plant is very discernible among its
healthy companions by its pallid hue
and flagging foliage. The disease now
makes rapid progress, the swelling con-
tinues to increase, for the vessels of
the alburnum and the bark continue to
afford their juices faster than they can
be conveyed away ; moisture and air
are admitted to the interior of the ex-
crescence, through the perforation made
by the maggot ; the wounded vessels
ulcerate, putrefaction supervenes, and
death concludes the stinted existence
of the miserable plant. The tumour

AMB

29

AMB

usually attains the size of a large hen's I
egg, has a rugged, ichorous, and even
mouldy surface, smelling strong and of-
fensively. The fibrous roots, besides
being generally thickened, are distorted
and monstrous from swellings, which
appear throughout their length, appa-
rently arising from an elTort of nature to

Another general result of experience
is, that the ambury is most frequently
observed in dry seasons. This is also
what might be anticipated, for insects
that inhabit the earth just beneath
its surfice, are always restricted and
checked in their movements by its
abounding in moisture. Moreover, the

form receptacles for the sap, deprived ; plants actually affected by the ambury,
as it is of its natural spissation in the ' are more able to contend against the in-
leaves. These swellings do not seem jury inflicted by the larva of tlie weevil,
to arise immediatp|y I'rom the attacks by the same copious supply.

of the weevil, for I have never observ- |
ed them containing its larva.

In wet seasons, I have, in a very few
instances, known an infected cabbage

Mr. Marshall very correctly describes j plant produce fresh healthy roots above

the form which this disease assumes
^^hen it attacks the turnip. It is a large
excrescence appearing below the bulb,
growing to the size of both hands, and,
as soon as the hard weather sets in, or
it is, by its own nature, brought to ma-
turity, becoming putrid and smelling
very offensively.

These distortions manifest themselves
very early in the turnip's growth, even
before the rough leaf is much developed.
Observation seems to have ascertained.

the swelling of the ambury. Mr. Smith,
gardener to M. Bell, Esq., of Woolsing-
ton, in Northumberland, expresses his
conviction, after several years' expe-
rience, that charcoal-dust spread about
half an inch deep upon the surface,
and just mixed with it by the point of a
spade, effectually prevents the occur-
rence of this disease. That this would
be the case we might have surmised
from analogy, for charcoal-dust is offen-
sive to many insects, and is one of the

that if the bulbs have attained the size of j most powerful preventives of piitrefac-
a walnut unaffected, they do not subse- tion known. Soot, I have reason to
quently become diseased. The maggot : believe, from a slight experience, is
found in the turnip ambury is the larva I as effectual as charcoal-dust. Judging
ofa weevil called Curculiopleurostigma. j from theoretical reasons, we might con-
" I have bred this species of weevil,"
says Mr. Kirhy, " from the knob-like
palls on turnips called the ambury, and
I have little doubt that the same in-
sects, or a species allied to them, cause
the clubbing of the roots of cabbages."
Marsham describes the parent as a
coleopterous insect of a dusky black

elude that it would be more specifical ;
for, in addition to its being, like char-
coal, finely divided carbon, it contains
sulphur, to which insects also have an
antipathy.

I have a strong opinion that a slight
dressing of the surface soil with a little
of the dry hydro-sulphuret of lime, that

colour, with the breast spotted with ' may now be obtained so readily from
white, and the length of the body one the gas-works, would prevent the oc-

line and two-thirds. The general ex
perience of all the farmers and garden-
ers with whom I have conversed upon
the subject, testifies that the ambury
of the turnip and cabbage usually at-
tacks these crops when grown for suc-
cessive years on the same soil. This
19 precisely what might be expected,
for where the parent insect always de-
posits her eggs, some of these embryo
ravagers are to be expected. That they
never attack the plants upon a fresh
site is not asserted ; Mr. Marshall's
etatement is evidence to the contrary ;
but it is advanced that the obnoxious
weevil is most frequently to be observed
in soils where the turnip or cabbage has
recently and repeatedly been cultivated.

currence of the disease by driving the
weevils from the soil. It would proba-
bly as effectually banish the turnip fly or
flea, if sprinkled over the surface im-
mediately after the seed is sown, I
entertain this opinion of its efficacy io
preventing the occurrence of the am-
bury, from an instance when it was ap-
plied to some brocoli,ignorantly endea-
voured to be produced in successive
crops on the same plot. These had in-
variably failed from the occurrence of
the amburv, but the brocoli was now
uninfected. The only cause for this
escape that I could trace was, that, just
previously to planting, a little of the
hydro-sulphuret of lime had been dug
in. This is a very fetid powerful com-

AMB

30

AM E

pound. Where dry lime purifiers are
employed at gas works, it may be ob-
tained in the state of a dry powder, but
wlierc a liquid mixture of lime and wa-
ter is employed, the bydro-sulphuret
can only be had in the form of a thick
cream. Of the dry hydro-sulphuret I
would recommend eight bushels per
acre to be spread regularly by hand up-
on the surface after the turnip seed is
sown, and before harrowing. If the
)i(liiid is employed, I would recommend
thirty gallons of it to be mixed with a
sufficient quantity of earth or ashes, to
enable it to be spread over an acre in
a similar manner. For cabbages, twelve
bushels, or forty-five gallons per acre,
would not probably be too much, spread
upon the surface and turned in with the
spade or last ploughing. To effect the
banishment of the turnip-flea I should
like a trial to be made of six or eight
bushels of the dry, or from twenty-two
to twenty-eight gallons of the liquid,
liydro-sulphuret being spread over the
Burlace immediately after the sowing,
harrowing, and rolling are finished.
Although I specify these quantities as
those I calculate most correct, yet in
all experiments it is best to try various
proportions. Three or four bushels
may be found sufficient, perhaps twelve,
or even twenty, may not be too much.
In cabbages the ambury may usually be
avoided by frequent transplanlings, for
this enables the workman to remove
the excrescences upon tlieir first appear-
ance, and renders the plants altogether
more robust and ligneous ; the plant in
its tender sappy stage of growth being
most open to the insect's attacks. The
warts or galls that so frequently may be
noticed on the bulbs of turnips, must
not be mistaken for the ambury in a
mitigated form. If these are opened

small gardens, wliere the same crop is
too IVequently repeated : also in market
gardens. In the latter case it may be
attributable to the putrid manure used
to produce excessive luxuriance. Lime,
change of manure, rotation of crops, but
above all deep tillage, bringing the
subsoil to the surface, are the remedies
adopted.

AMELANCHIER. Four species.
Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers.
Common uiMi:f soil.

AMELLUrt. Three species. A.
Lyrhnitis, green-li,ouse evergreen ;
others hardy and deciduous. Cuttings.
Loam.

AMERICAN ALOE. Agave Ameri-
cana.

AMERICAN COWSLIP. Dodcca-
theon.

AMERICAN BLIGHT, {Aphis la-
nigera — Eriosoma lanigera.) The cot-
tony matter in tlie cracks and excres-
cences of apple tree branches in the
spring envelops an insect known by
the above names, and which, when
crushed, exudes a reddish fluid. These
insects are injurious by piercing the sap
vessels with their probosces, sucking
the juice of the tree, and causing
wounds which ulcerate and finally de-
stroy the branch attacked by corroding
through all the sap vessels. The cot-
tony matter is abundant, and, wafted to
other trees, probably conveys to them
infection, by bearing with it the eggs
or embryo insect. But this is not the
exclusive mode of difl'using the disease,
for although the females are usually
wingless, yet, like many other insects,
some are probably produced with winga
at the season propitious to coloniza-
tion. The males are uniformly winged.
In the winter these insects retire under

they will usually be found to contain a \ ground, and prey upon the roots of the
yellowish maggot, the larva probably i apple tree. A tree thus ravaged at all
of some species of cynips. This insect > seasons will soon be killed, if prompt
deposits its eggs in the turnip when of! and vigorous remedies are not adopted,
larger growth than that at which it is ] The affected roots may be bared and
attacked by the weevil, and the vegeta- I left exposed for a few days to the cold,
ble consequently suffers less from the ' and the earth, before being returned,
injury ; but from some slight observa- I be saturated with amnioniacal liquor
tions, I am inclined to conclude, that from the gas works. In early March
the turnips thus infested suffer most I the branches should be scraped, and
from the frosts of winter, and are the scrubbed with the same ammoniacal
earliest in decay. — Johnson''s Principles j liquid, or a strong brine of common salt;

of Gardening.

The Ambury occasionally exhibits it-

but whatever liquid is employed, the
scraping and hard bristles of the brush

self around Philadelphia, principally in ; should penetrate every crack in the

AME

31

AM II

bark. This treatment, repeated and I vent them being injured by its pressure,

persevered in so long as the least ap-
pearance of the insect is observed,
never Hiiis of a cure. Linseed or rape
oil or spirit of tar applied to the infected
part, and repeated a second or third
time with a brush, are also effective
remedies. They suifocate the insects.
Strong pyroligneous acid applied in tiie
same mode is also said to destroy this
as well as the scale insect. The codlin
and June eating, a re particularly liable to
be infected ; but I never observed it upon
any of the russet apples: and theCroI'lon
pippin is also said to be exempted.

AMHRICAN CRANBKRRY, (Oxy-
cornts macrocarpa.)

Suil. — A light soil, well incorporated
with peat, and occasionally manured
with rotten leaves.

Situation. — It requires a constant
supply of water, and on a south bank
where this supply can be obtained, it
may be planted in rows four feet apart
each way, and the water made to circ\i-
late in a small ditch between the rows.
But the edge of a pond will suit it al-
most as well.

After-culture. — The shrubs require
no iitlier attention than to be kept hee
from weeds.

Produce. — This is so abundant that a
bed six yards long is sufficient for the
largest tiimilv.

AMERICAN CRESS, (Barharea pre-
cox.)

Soil and Situation. — For the win-
ter standing crops, a light, dry soil, in
an open but warm situation, should be
allotted to it; and for the summer, a
rather moister and shady border is to
be preferred. In neither instance is it
required to be rich

some twigs may be bent over the bed,
or some light bushy branches laid among
them, which will support it. The only
cultivation they require is to be kept
clear of weeds.

In gathering, the outside leaves only
should be stripped off, whicli enables
successive crops to become rapidly fit
for use.

Wlien the plants begin to run, their
centres must be cut away, which causes
them to shoot afresh.

To obtain Seed. — For the production
of seed, a few of the strongest plants,
raised from the first spring sowing, are
left ungathered from. They flower in
June or July, and perfect their seed be-
tbre the commencement of autumn.

AMERICAN PLANTS. In England
and the European continental gardens,
apartments are allotted to collections
ofour native plants, and usually denomi-
nated the American department. It is
somewhat amusing to read the direc-
tions laid down as to its soil, situation,
&c., as if our country, whicli presents
the greatest diversity of soil, climate
and altitude, with corresponditig vege-
table productions, some delighting in
the swani[), others in the mountain,
some sustaining the frosts of iiigli north-
ern latitudes, others luxuriating in the
sunny south, eaCh choosing tor itself
its own peculiar soil — were as hounded
and contracted as the British Isle. We
annex a specimen. " American Plants.
These comprise many very d liferent
species, which, resemlding each other
in requiring a peaty soil and abundance
of water, are usually cultivated in a
separate department, where the garden
establishment is extensive; anil, wher-

Time and mode of sowing. — It is pro- i ever grown, should have a compart-

pagated by seed, which must be sown
every six weeks from March to August
for summer and autumn, but only one
sowing is necessary either at the end of
August or beginning of September, for
a su[)ply during winter and spring. It
may be sown broadcast, but the most
})refcrable mode is in drills nine inches
apart. Water may be given occasion-
ally during dry weather, both before
and alter the appearance of the plants.
If raised from broadcast sowings, the
plants arc thinned to six inches apart:
if in drills, only to three. In winter
they require the shelter of a little lit-
ter, or other light covering ; and to pre-

rnent to themselves, u very acutely
sloping bank, facing the north or east;
and someofihein,as the Riiododendron,
Andromeda, and Azalea, do not oliject
to being overshadowed by trees. The
soil, as already stated, must be peat;
and the best annual dressings that can
be applied are such matters as decayed
leaves, and the bottom of old wood
stacks; or any other mixture of de-
cayed woody fibre."

AMERIMNLM. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam.

AMETHYSTIA cccrulea. Hardy an-
nual. Seed. Peat.

AMHERSTIA nobilis. Stove ever-

AMH

32

A NE

green. A most lovely tree. Cuttings.
Rich clayey io;itn.

AMICIA zigomeris. Stove ever-
green climber. Cuttings. Loam.

AMIROLA nitida. Stove evergreen
tree. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

AMMOBIUM. Two species. Half-
hardy herbaceous. Cuttings. Peat and
sand.

AMMOCHARIS. Brunsvigia.

AMMYRSINE. Two species. Hardy
evergreen shrubs. Layers. Sand and
peat.

AMOMUM. Thirteen species. Stove
herbaceous perennials. Division. Light
rich soil.

AMORPHA. Eleven species. Chiefly
hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers and
cuttings. Common light soil.

AMPELOPSIS. Four species. Hardy
deciduous climbers, except A. bipin-
nata, which is a shrub. Layers or cut-
tings. Common soil.

AMPELYGONUM chinense. Green-
house herbaceous. Seed. Sand,loani;
and peat.

AMPHEREPHIS. Three species.
Hardy annuals. Seed. Common soil.

AMPHICARPA. Two species.
Hardy deciduous twiners. Seed or cut-
lin£8. Loam, peat and sand.

AMPHICOME arguta. Half-hardy
evergreen. Seeds or cuttings. Loam,
eand, and peat. Suited for rock-work.

AMPHILOBIUM paniculatum. Stove
evergreen climber. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

AMSONIA. Three species. Hardy
herbaceous. Cuttings or division.
Common soil.

AMYGDALUS. Almond. Six spe-
cies, and many varieties. Seed and
grafts. Rich loam. For culture, see
Peach.

AMYRIS. Ten species. Stove ever-
green trees. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

ANACAMPSEROS. Ten species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Suck-
ers. Comm'in light soil.

ANACARDIUM. Two species.
Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Light
loam.

ANACYCLUS. Three species.
Hardy annuals. Seed. Common soil.

ANADENl A pulrhella. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

ANAGALLIS. Pimpernel. Ten
Bpecies. Some are hardy annuals —
seed ; others green-house biennials ;

these and the perennial species are
propagated by cuttings. Common light
soil suits all.

ANAGYRIS. Three species. Half-
hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings or
seed. Rich light soil.

ANANASSA. Pine Apple. Four
species and many varieties. See Pine-
Apple.

ANANTHERIX viridu. Hardy pe-
rennial. Seed or division. Light rich
soil.

ANARRHINUM. Three species.
Hardy biennials. Seed. Common soil.

AN ASTATIC A hierochuntina. Rose
of Jericho. Half-hardy annual. Seed.
Common soil.

ANCHIETEApj/r?7o/ia. Stove ever-
green climber. Peat and loam.

ANCHOVY-PEAR. Grias cauliflora.

ANCHUSA. Twenty-seven species.
All hardy but A. capensis. This re-
quires to be raised in a frame ; the
others may be sown in open borders.

ANDERSONIA sprengeloides. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy
peat.

ANDIRA. Two species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

ANDROCYMBIUM. Three species.
Green-house bulbs. Offsets. Peat and
sandy loam.

ANDROMEDA. Twenty-nine spe-
cies and many varieties Mostly hardy
evergreens. A. buxifoUa, fasriculata,
jamaicensis, and ruhiginosa are stove
evergreens. A. Iiypnoides, japonica,
ovalifoUa, sinensis, and tetragona are
half-hardy. The United States has
contributed the larger portion of this
interesting genus. Seed. Peat.

ANDROSACE. Eighteen species.
Mostly hardy. Seed or division. Peat
and turfy loam.

ANDRYALA. Nine species. Some
hardy, others green-house plants. Seed
and division. Common soil.

ANKILEMA. Eleven species. Stove
and green-house. Division or seed.
Peal and sandy loam.

ANEMIA. Eleven species. Stove
ferns. Division and seed. Light loam.

ANEMONE. Wind-flower. Forty-
seven species ; numerous varieties.
Some hardy herbaceous, others hardy
tuberous; A.vitifoliais half-hardy, and
A. cnpens)s green-house. A. thalic-
tr aides florc plena xs a very beautiful and
chaste flower, an artificial product from

ANE

33

ANE

a well known American species. Divi-j annually at tlie decay of the leaf, and
sion, offsets, or seeds. Light loam. I the root may be divided or broken into
The anemone, the florist's flower of as many pieces or knobs as are furnished
our gardens, is the oftspring of the A. with an eye or hud, observing, how-
f oro«<ir/a (poppy anemone), and j4. /lor- ever, that if they are divided very
tensis (star-leaved anemone). Sprung small, they flower very weak the first
from these there are now about eighty year ; therefore, if you would have
varieties in our catalogues. A variety strong flowers from the main root, only

lasts about twelve years. The follow-
ing is a good selection.

Agnita.

Belle Hortense.

IJellona.

Couicur de Sang.

Court de France.

iRegina Rubrorum.
Reine Caudale.

des Fleurs.

of Anemones.

Remarkable.

Cramoisie Superbe. Rosalia.

Grand Duke.
High Admirable.
Imperatrice.
Incomparable A-

zure.
Olympia.
Regina Augusta.

Rose Agreeable.

Jolie.

Mernette.

Parfaite.

Snrpassante.

Superbe Royale.
Triumphante.

Characteristics of a good anemone. —
The stem should be strong, elastic, and
erect, not less than nine inches high.
The blossom or corolla should be at
least two inches and a half in diameter,
consisting of an exterior row of large
substantial well-rounded petals or
guard-leaves, at first horizontally ex-
tended, and then turning a little up-
wards, so as to form a broad shallow
cup, the interior part of which should
contain a great number of long small
petals imbricating each other, and
rather reverting from the centre of the
blossom : there are a great number of

break off those small ones that are
slightly affixed thereto, but they should
not be thus divided until autumn, or
near the time for planting them again.

The time for taking up tlie roots is in
May and June, wiien the leaf and stalk
are withered, for then the roots cease
to grow for a month or six weeks; but
if they are permitted to stand to put
forth fresh fibres again, they should not
be removed that season.

They should be taken up in dry
weather, and spread in an airy place
out of the sun for about a week, then
cleared from earth and put up in bags
or boxes till the planting season arrive.

The seed should be sowed from the
best single or semi-double flowers; the
full doubles afford none.

The time to sow it is March, either
in boxes, large pots, or pans, of light
compost, or in a bod of such earth ; sow
it moderately thick, and cover it near a
quarter of an inch deep with sifted
mould. From this time occasional shade
and moderate waterings in dry weather
are necessary, and in six weeks the
plants will appear. Keep them clear
from weeds, and when the leaves decay,
sift a quarter of an inch of earth over

small slender stamens intermixed with the bed, which is all that is necessary

these petals, but they are short and not
easily discernible. The colour should
be clear and distinct when diversified
in the same flower, or brilliant and
striking if it consists only of one colour,
as blue, crimson, or scarlet, &,c., in
which case the bottom of the broad ex-
terior petals is generally white; but the

till the second summer, when they are
to be taken up at the decay of the leaf,
and managed as the old roots in the
manner already directed.

Time for planting. — The best time to
plant the principal sorts for the general
bloom is October, or early iu Novem-
ber, and the plants will come into flower

beauty and contrast are considerably in- in April and beginning of May ; but if
creased when both the exterior petals some are planted in the middle of Sep-
are regularly marked with alternate tember, and a second parcel towards
blue and white, or pink and white, &c., the middle or latter end of October,
stripes, which, in the broad petals, [ they will afford a succession of bloom
should not extend quite to the margin, i from the beginning of April until the

Propagation. — All the varieties are middle of May ; and if a third plantation
propagated by offsets from the root, , is made in February or beginning of
and new varieties are obtained from March, they will come into flower about
seed. the middle of May, and continue until

By offsets all the kinds increase ex- I the middle of June,
ceedingly every year, so the roots of | Those planted early in autumn come
ail the best kinds should be taken up i up before Christmas, and always pro-
3

A N E

34

ANG

duce the largest flowers, and continue row, and two inches deep, and when
in beauty; the roots too afford a larger one bed is planted, run over it lightly

incrense tlian those planted in sprinr
Soil and site. — The situation proper

th the rake.

Those of the autumn plantation will

for the anemone should be thoroughly come up in leaf in November, but as the
drained, and open to the south, and un- plants are hardy, nothing is needful to
incumbered by the shade of trees. The be done till the bloom begins to ap-
anemoue will prosper and flower in pear; and then, if you think proper to
tolerable perfection in aTiy common bestow a little care upon the superior
moderately light earth, only observing sorts, by arching the beds with hoops, in
to avoid planting in overmoist and stiff; order to cover the bloom with mats
soils, which rot the roots in winter ; occasionally, to protect it from cutting
and if an V addition is necessary to raise black frosts, which often prevail in
or form the beds, no more is needful j April.

than common light soil from the quar- Protection. — An easy way ofprotect-
ters of the kitchen garden, or any other ; ing Anemones and Ranunculuses is to
well-wrought garden earth, working bend across the beds wooden or iron
the whole one good spade deep. The hoops, securely fixed in the ground;
beds, however, are often formed of, upon these mats can be thrown in cases
compos'ts. Take maiden loam from the ' of frost or snow, but care must be taken
surface of a pasture, the top spit turf that they are firmly secured to the hoops
and all; to every load of this add one by pegs. — Gard. Chron.
of neats' dung, and half a load of sea ~ "
or drift sand ; blend the whole together,
and form it in a ridge, in which let it
remain a year at least, turning it over
once in two or three months.

But in default of pasture earth, a good
compost may be formed of common
light garden soil and rotted neats' dung,
adding to every load of the former half
a load of the latter, and about a quarter
of that of drift or sea sand ; and of either
of which composts the bed is to be form-
ed, about twelve or fifteen inches in
depth, and three feet and a half broad.

Forcing. — "Double Anemones may
be potted in October, and the soil should
be composed as follows: — One-half
maiden loam, fresh from the pasture,
with one-quarter well-rotted cow dung,
and one-quarter fine sand (sea or river
sand if possible). After potting, they
may be placed in a cold frame or pit,
and watered but sparingly until the fol-
lowing spring, when they may be put
into a warmer place. They will not
stand much forcing by artificial means."
— Gard. Chron.

Mildew. — This disease first appears
'Plnnti7ig. — In the borders, plant them S as pale spots on the under sides of the
in patches three, four, or five roots to- i leaves. These spots gradually rise into
gether, in a patch of five or six inches j tubercles, and a minute fungus bursts
breadth, putting them two or three through, shedding its seed, and diffusing

inches deep.

the disease. This parasitical fungus is

Beds. — Mark out three feet and a half] JEcidium. qimdrifidum. Sea sand, or a
broad, the length according to the num- ; little salt mixed with the compost of the
ber of plants, with alleys eighteen inches j bed, is a good preventive ; and a syring-
wide between bed and bed. The beds ! ing with very diluted gas-water, is a
must be worked fifteen or eighteen ; good application after infection,
inches deep; break the earth small, but A N E T H U M . Four species. All
do not sift it, observing that to prevent hardy, including Fennel and Dill,

lodgment of wet, and to give the beds
a good appearance, as well as to show
the flowers to the best advantage, it is
eligible to elevate them three inches
above the common level or general sur-
ficp, but if there is danger of moisture
standing in winter, double or treble that
is a proper height, working the whole
a little rounding and raking the surface
smooth.

In each bed plant six rows lengthwise,
the roots at six inches distance in each

which see.

ANGELICA, {Angelica Archan-
gelica.) Stalks cut in May, for candy-
ing. Formerly blanched and eaten like
celery.

Soil and Situation. — It may be grown
in any soil and exposure, but best in
moist situations, consequently the banks
of ponds, ditches, &c., are usually allot-
ted to it.

Time of Sowing. — Sow soon aflerthe
seed is ripe, about September, being

ANG

35

ANI

almost useless if preserved until the carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and nitrogen,
spring; if, however, neglected until that with a small addition of saline matters,
season, the earlier it is inserted the The general consideration o\' Mamtres
better. will be found under that title, and other

Mode of Cultivation. — Sow mode- relative infurination under the heads
rately thin, in drills a foot asunder, and Dung and Vegetable Matters, and in
half an inch deep. When arrived at a this place I shall confine my attention to
height of live or six inches, the plants some of the most available of strictly

animal matters. See also the article

Bones.

Blubber, or fat of the whale, contains

must be thinned, and those removed
transplanted, to a distance of at least
two feet and a half from each other,
either in a bed, or on the sides of ditches, train oil, composed of

&c. Water iii abundance must be given
at the time of removal, as well as until
they are established ; but it is better
to discontinue it during their further

Carbon .... 6S.S7

Hydrogen . . . 16.10

Oxygen .... 15.03

with a little animal skin and muscle.

growth, unless the application is regular Forty gallons of train oil, mixed with
and frequent. In the IMay, or early | 120 bushels of screened soil, grew
June of the second year, they flower, twenty-three tons of turnips per acre,
when they must be cut down, which on a soil where forty bushels of l)ones
causes them to sprout again, and if this broken small, and eighty bushels of

is carefully attended to, they will con-
tinue for three or four years; but if per-
mitted to run to seed, they perish soon
after.

Seed. — A little seed should be saved

burnt earth, produced only twenty-one
tons.

Fish generally, such as sprats, her-
rings, pilchards, five-fingers, and shell-
fish, owe their powerful fertilizing quali-

annually, as a resource in case of any \ lies not only to the oil they contain, but

accidental destruction of the crop.

also to the phosphate of litne in their

ANGK.LICA-TREE, Aralia spinosa. • bones. From twenty-five to forty-five

ANGEONIA salicdriafolia. Stove I bushels per acre are the extreme quan-

herbaceous. Cuttings. Sandy rich loam. ', titles to be applied broad-cast, but if in

ANGIANTHUS aureus. Green-house the drills, with the crop sixteen bushels

herbaceous. Division. Loam and peat.

ANGLE-SHADES MOTH. SeePho-
lo gopher a.

ANGOPHORA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat,
Band, and loam.

are ample. Th(?y are beneficial to all
the gardener's crops, but especially to
asparagus, parsnips, carrots, beets, on-
ions, and beans. Shell-fish should be
broken before being applied.

Blood is a very rich manure, and has

ANGR.^CUM. Nine species. Stove ; been used with especial benefit to vines,
epiphytes. Cuttings. Wood, or moss i and other fruit trees. The blood of the

and potsherds, in baskets.

ANGUILLARIA. Three species.
Half-hardy herbaceous. Offsets. Sandy
peat.

ANGURIA. Four species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Division. Loam
and peat.

ANIA &/rorn«s. Stove epiphyte. Off-
sets. Peat and potsherds.

ANIGOZANTHOS. Three species.
Green-house herbaceous. Division.
Sandy peat,

ox contains about eighty per cent, of
water, and twenty per cent, solid mat-
ter. The latter contains in 100 parts
when dried,

Carbon .... 51.950
Hydrogen . . . 7.165
Azofe . . . . 17.172
Oxygen. . . . 19.295
Ashes .... 4.418
The ashes contain various salts, as
chloride of sodium, (common salt,)
phosphate of lime, with a little oxide of

AXI.MAL MATTERS, without any iron. Sugar -bakeys skimmings owe
exception, are beneficial as manures, for I their chief fertilizing qualities to the
they all yield during putrefaction gases i blood used in clarifying the sugar, and
and soluble substances that are imbibed , which is combined with vegetable albu-
greedily by the roots of plants. That men and extractive,
this is the case affords no cause for won- Woollen Rngs, cut into very small
dcr, because animal matters and vege- pieces, are a good manure, decomposing
table matters are alike compounded of, slowly, and benefiting the second as

ANI

36

ANN

much as the first crop. Hops and turnips | stove annual. Division or seed. Light

dry soil.

ANISOPIAAor^jcoZa, is a beetle which
often attacks the rose flowers about
June. Its maggots live under turf, and
feed on its roots.

ANNUALS, are plants which live but
one year, and, consequently, require to
be raised from seed annually. By a
particular mode of culture some of them
may be made to live longer. Thus

have been the crops to which they have
been chiefly applied. Half a ton per
acre is a fair dressing.
posed of

Carbon . . .

Hydrogen . .

Azote . . .

Wool is com-

50.653
7.029
17.710

Oxygen )
lurj

24.608

Suiph
It leaves a very slight ash, containing
minute quantities of muriate of potash, mignonette will continue to bloom for

lime, and probably phosphate of lime.

Feathers and hair closely resemble it in

their components. Horns are composed

of

Carbon. . . . 51.578
Hvdrogen. . . 6.712
A'zote .... 17.284

l?Yl^"l . . . 24.426
Sulphur)
besides minute proportions of sulphate

two or more years if not allowed to
ripen its seeds.

Hardy Annuals are sown where they
are to remain in the open borders, in
March or April, as the latitude and
temperature may make expedient, of
which the cultivator can readily judge ;
it is usually safe to sow them when the
peach expands its blossoms. Whether
sown in patches or broad masses,

muriate and phosphate of potash, phos- ! whether mixed or separate, must be left

phate of lime, and other less important
matters.

S/ie//s.— Those of the following fish
are thus composed: —

Oyster . .
Lobster . .
Hen's Eggsi

1.2
7.0
5.7

98.3
63.0
89.6

matter.

~0T5~

30.0

4.7

They have all been found good in a
pounded form, as manures for turnips;
and must be for all other plants, and on
all soils where calcareous matters are i state of the greatest beauty from the

to the taste of the sower — guided by his
knowledge of the colours of the flowers.
These should be well contrasted. No
one but an ignoramus would have many
sorts of the same colour together. Every
patch should beproperly labelled, which
is easily done by having some deal laths,
one inch broad, planed smooth, cut into
nine-inch lengths, and painted white.
On these the names can be written with
a lead pencil.

Dr. Lindley truly observes, that "It
is possible to maintain a garden in a

deficient. For more extensive notices
of these and similar manures, the reader

first visit of spring to the last fading ray
of autumn sunshine, by the simple
is referred to a useful work, recently ; practice of growing annuals and other
published in this country, "The Eco-
nomy of Waste Manures."

ANISACANTHA divaricata. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

ANISANTHUS. Three species.
Green-house bulbs. Ofisets. Sandysoil.

ANISE, (Tragium anisiim.) Half-
hardy annual, used for garnishing or

seasoning. Sow during April in pots most miserable objects in the garden,
plunged in a hotbed; remove to a warm, I for tlie pots become so dry, from the
light border in May. Thin the plants to continual evaporation of water, through
six inches apart. The seed is ripe in their porous sides, that the plants are
August or September. It does not bear literally starved

plants of a similar nature in pots. And
for this purpose an ample variety may
be had for three-pence a seed-paper,
without having recourse to any means
more costly.

" Not that the common method of
growing plants in pots will answer this
end ; on the contrary, managed as they
usually are, annuals, in pots, are the

transplanting.

The method to pursue in preparing

ANISEED-TREE, lUicium anisatum. ' pots for receiving annuals, is this: — in
ANISOCHILUS carnosa. Stove her- the first place, lay a crock over the hole

baceous. Cuttings. Rich light soil, in the bottom of the pot, then fill the
ANISOMELKS. Four species. Three pot to about one-third or one-half of its

are stove evergreens, and ^4. ovata, a jdepth with wet moss pressed very close.

ANN

37

ANN

and over that put rich light soil, in which
the annual seeds are to be sown, or
young plants are to be pricked out. The
pot is then placed in a common pan, and
the latter is filled with water in wet
weather. The moss absorbs the water
freely, and parts with it slowly; at the
same time it forms a mass of moist mate-
rials, in which the roots of a plant will
freely spread. By these simple means,
the annuals are completely guarded
from all the evils of dryness, and they
grow with the same health, though not
to the same size, perhaps, as if planted
out in the open border. Such pots can
be distributed over the garden, wher-
ever a vacancy occurs, and will decorate
the borders beneath trees and bushes,
wlicre no such plants will grow in the
open ground itself. Their sides arc
rapidly covered with their own lower
branches, or may be concealed by the
foliage of each other: as soon as one is
shabby, it is removed, and succeeded by
another in full beauty; and, by a little
management, chiefly consisting in re-
peated sowings at short intervals, no
interruption to the succession of flowers
need be experienced. Another advan-
tage of this plan consists in the facility
with which the arrangement of colours
and grouping of individuals can be ef-
fected and varied.

"Bulbs may be treated in the same
manner, and then will never be destroy

Clintonia pulchella.
Collinsia bicolor.

grandiflora.

Collomia coccinea.
Convolvulus tricolor.

Coreopsis (Calliopsis) atro purpurea.
Emilia (Cacalia) coccinea.
Erysimum Perofskianum.
Eutoca viscida.
Gilia tricolor.
Godetia Lindleyana.

((Enothera) rubicunda.

tcnuifolia.

Hibiscus Africanus.

Kaulfussia (Amellus) amelloides.

Leptosiphon androsaceus.

dcnsiflorus.

Lupinus Hartwegii.

nanus.

Malope grandiflora.
Nemophila atomaria.

— — insignis.

Nolana atriplicifolia.
(Enothera tetraptera.
Phlox Drummondii.
Platystcmon californicum.
Schizopetalum Walkeri.
Sphenogyne speciosa.
Viscaria (Agrostemma) cccli-rosa.

HALF-HARDY ANNUALS

Are sown in a gentle hot-bed early
in April, or late in March, then to be
transplanted into the borders, and at-
tended like other annuals. These spe-
ed by the careless spade of the garden : cifications as to time, apply to the

labourer. The only point to observe is, | middle states, and may also serve to
that each pot should rarely contain more I guide those north or south. The ten-
than a single plant, unless in the case of der annuals may generally be planted
species of very small size naturally, or out with safety, when the later sprout-

of bulbous plants." — Gard. Chron.

The following is a good selection, and
may be obtained at most seed stores. It
should, however, be observed, injustice
to seedsmen, that as the seeds of many
annuals are extremely minute and deli-
cate, so is the dilficulty of causing them
to vegetate increased, especially in sea-
sons of too much or too little moisture,
and due allowance should be made
therefor.

HARDY ANNUALS.

Bartonia aurea.
Calandrinia discolor.

(Talinum) speciosa.

Callichroa platyglossa.
Campanula Lorei.
Chrysanthemum carinatum.
Clarkia pulchella.

ing forest trees put forth.
Argemone grandiflora.

Mexicana.

Aster sinensis.
Atropa physaloides.
Bidens hcterophylla.
Cacalia coccinea.
Carthamus tinctorius.
Centaurea Americana.
Celsia orientalis.
Chrysanthemum.
Cistus niloticus.
Coboea scandens (climber).
Convolvulus discolor.
michauxii.

purpurea.

Coreopsis (Calliopsis) Drummondii.
Cucumis colocynthis.

dudaim.

flexuosus.

ANN

38

ANN

Datura ceratocaulon.

metel.

Dianthus sinensis.
Elichrysum macranthum.
Fiimaria vesicaria.
Gaiinsogia parviflora.

^— triloba.

Gnaphalium foetidum.

undiilatum.

Helianthus annuus.
IpomEa coccinea.
- phoenicea.
Loasa aiirantiaca (climber).
Lobelia azurea.
Lopezia racemosa.
Lopbospermum scandens (climber).
Mirabilis jalapa.

lutea.

longiflora.

Momordica balsamina.

luffa.

Monopsis scintillaris.
Nicotiana glutinosa.
paniculata.

Nolana prostrata.

Pharbitis (Ipomosa) hispida (climber),

PodoJcpis gracilis.

Polygonum orientale.

Ricinus communis.

inermis.
viridis.

Ricotia a>gyptiaca.
Rudbeckia amplexifolia.
Schizanthus pinnatus.
Senecio elegans.
Spilanthes acmella.
Stevia pedata.

serrata.

Tagetes erecta.
lucida.

— nana.

— patula.

— tenuifolia.

Trichosanthes anguina.

cucumeri.

Tropoeolum atrosanguineum (climb-
er).

peregrinum (climber).

Verbena Aubletia.
Viscaria oculata.
Xeranthnmum lucidum.
Ximensia encelioides.
Zinnia coccinea.

multiflora.

— lutea.

pauciflora.
revoluta.
verticillata.
violacea.

TENDER ANNUALS.

The following arc rather more tender
than those classed as half-hardy, but
may be managed in the same manner.

Achillea aegyptiaca.

Agapanthus umb. maj.

media.

Amaranthus bicolor.

cruentus.

rubicaulis.

tricolor.

Amethystea cajrulea.
Antirrhinum molle.
Brachycome iberifolia.
Browallia demissa.
^^— — elata ccerulea.

flo. albo.

Buchnera capensis.

Calceolaria pinnata.
Campannula capensis.

debilis.

mollis.

Cardiospermum halicacabum.
Cassia chamKchrista.

tora.

Celosia argentea.

cernua.

cristata rub.

dwarf, red.

tall, buff.

dwarf.

imperial red.

purple.

buff.

varieg.

Cleome pentaphylla.

spinosa.

viscosa.

Clitoria brasiliana.

ternata.

flo. albo.

Convolvulus pes capra;.

nil

tridendatum.

Crotalaria juncea.

verrucosa.

Datura fastuosa.

flo. albo.

Gnaphalium orientale
Gomphrena globosa

flo. albo.

stri.

Hedysarum gangeticum.

vespcrtilio.

Heliophila integrifolia.
Heliotropium indicum.
Impatiens balsamina.
• flesh col. dble.

ANN

39

ANT

Impatiens bizar, tall, dble.

dwarf, dble.

piir. stri., dble.

scarl. slri., dble.

Ipomoea Phcenicea.

quamoelit.

flo. albo.

Linum flavuni.

sutfruticosum.

Lotus creticus.
Lobelia gracilis.

ratnosa.

Maitynia fragrans.

proboscidea.

Mesembryanthemum crystallinum.

glabrum.

pinnatifidum.

(tricolor) pyropoeum.

Mimosa pudica.

sensitiva.

Ononis natrix.

crispa.

Pcntapetes Phoenicea.
Physalis prostrata.
Portulaca splendcns.

Tbellussoni.

Rhodanthe Manglesii.
Salpiglossis atropurpurea.
Sedum citruleum.

Sida cordifolia.
— — dilleniana.

hastata.

Snianum melongana.

fruct. purp.

Sowerbia juncea.

Statice mucronata.

Thunbergia (alata) aurantiaca.

albifiora.

Trachymene (Didiscus) coerulea.

Watsonia corymbosa.

ANODONTIA. Four species. Hardy
and hnlf-hardy plants. Seeds, cuttings,
or division. Common soil.

ANOXTOCHILUS setaceus. Stove
terrestrial orchidaceous plant.

ANOMATHECA. Two species.
Half-hardy bulbs. Seeds. Common
light soil.

ANONA. Custard apple. Seventeen
species. Cuttings or seeds. Rich loam.

ANT, {Formica.) To drive this in-
sect away, sprinkle flowers of sulphur
over its nests and haunts. To kill it,
pour over the nest at night a strong de-
coction of elder leaves. To trap it,
smear the inside of a garden pot with
honey, invert it over the nest, and when
crowded with them, hold it over the

lier trees, by tying a piece of wool round
the stems and the supporters.

ANT EN N ARIA. Eight species.
Chiefly hardy lierbaceous. A. Iiyperborea
is an evergreen creeper. Cuttings or
divisions. Light rich soil.

ANTHEMIS. Forty-six species. All
hardy except A. apifolia and punctata,
which are green-house plants. Seed.
Common soil. See Chamomile.

ANTHERICUM. Twenty-six species.
Green-house herbaceous, except ,4. scro-
tinum and sulphureuin, which are hardy.
Cuttings or seed. Loam and sandy peat.
ANTllOCERCIS. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

ANTHOCLEISTA macrophylla.
Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

ANTHODON. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Rich loam
and peat.

ANTHOLOMA monfana. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Rich loam and
peat.

ANTHOLYZA. Three species.
Hardy bulbs. Offsets. Sandy south
border.

ANTHOMYIA, a genus of fly, very
injurious to the gardener.

A. brassicce, cabbage fly, says Mr.
Curtis, " is found on the wing through
the summer, and is the parent of a mag-
got which has been known to lay waste
whole fieldsof cabbages by diseasing the
roots, in which they feed, as well as at
the base of tlie stalk. Successive gene-
rations are feeding until Noveml)er; the
latter families lying in the pupa state
through the winter, and most probably
some of the flies survive that season,
secreted in holes and crevices.

"When the Cabbage-leaves assume a
lead or yellow colour, and droop in mid-
day from the effect of the sun, such
plants being diseased should be taken
up, carried away, and burnt, and brine
or lime put into the holes. Gardeners,
in some instances, have collected large
quantities of the pupa; from the roots,
by drawing away the earth; and as these
insects are exceedingly rapid in their
transtbrmations, it is very likely that it
may have a very material effect in check-
ing their increase, and giving the suc-
ceeding crop a better chance of escap-
ing the fate of the preceding one.
" The male of A. brassiccE is dark

steam of boiling water. They may be .

kept from ascending standard and espa- 1 bright grey, with black bristles ; there is

ANT

40

ANT

a black stripe halfway down the middle ing towards the head, which is pointed,

of the thorax, and a curved one on each and armed with two short, black claws

side ; the body has a more decided black at the nose.

stripe down the centre, and the seg- " These maggots live in the involucra
niCMts are marked by a lineofthe same of different varieties of Lettuce, feeding
colour; legs and antenna; blackish; wings upon the grains and receptacle; and
a little smoky. The female is pale ashy when these are consumed they wriggle
grey; the eyes remote, with a dark themselves out backward, either to en-
chestnut-coloured stripe on the crown; ter another seed-vessel or fall to the
the wings are similar in tint to those of' ground and become pupse.

the foregoing species, but the insects are
considerably smaller." — Gard. Chron.

" When the seed-stems are gathered
and dying, the larvae change to pupae.

A. ceparum, Onion fly. For the fol- ! called shucks in Surrey, being bright
lowing particulars I am indebted to the chestnut-coloured, oval cases, which
work of M. Kollar. ] are rough when viewed under a lens,

" The fly lays her eggs on the leaves with two minute tubercles at the head.

of the onion, close to the earth.

and two hooks and a few other tubercles

"The newly-hatched maggot bores , at the tail,
through the first leaf and then descends I " In the second week of May a few
between the leaves into the onion to its of the pupte hatch ; they have, however,
base, when it entirely destroys the bulb, ' been observed as early as April, and as
which soon becomes rotten. It leaves late as July. The male is intense black,
the onion to undergo its transformation clothed with short hair and bristles; the
in the earth, and becomes an elliptical, eyes reddish-brown and meeting above ;
reddish-brown, wrinkled pupa, out of face inclining to chestnut colour, with a

which the perfect fly is developed in
summer in from ten to twenty days.
The later brood pass the winter in the
pupa state.

" The perfect insect or fly is entirely

bright spot of the same on the crown
the fore part of the trunk bears four
varying whitish stripes ; the body is ashy
grey, the segments blackish, at the base
a deep black ; wings two, stained with

of an ash grey colour in the female, or [ black, and beautifully iridescent; the
with black stripes on the back of the I base and poisers ochreous, the nervures
male; the wings clear like glass, with ; of the wings pitchy.

broad iridescent reflections, and yellow-

The female is entirely ashy grey.

ish-brown veins. It is found through- I and less bristly; the eyes not meeting
out the summer in several generations. ' on the crown, with a bright chestnut-
" The larva lives during that season coloured stripe between them; body
singly, and also gregariously, on the dif- i oval, the apex cone-shaped; horns and

ferent sorts of leeks and onions, and doei
great damage among the white onions."
The maggot is conical, white, and
smooth. It will never make its appear-
ance, if, at the time of sowing, a little
of the lime from the dry purifiers of the

egs blackish; wings and nervures lighter
than in the male, which it equals in
size." — Gard. Chron.

ANTHONOMUS.

.4.pomorM//!, Apple weevil. Mr. Curtis
truly observes, that "this insect corn-

gas-works be dug in and a less quantity ' mits great devastation in apple orchards,
raked in with the seed. This may now by destroying the stamens, pistil, and
be obtained almost in every district of receptacle of the flower. As soon as
GreatBritain; but should itbe neglected, the blossom buds begin to swell, the fe-
or not obtainable, soot applied in the male beetle begins to deposit her eggs.
same mode, with the addition of one or In calm weather she selects a good bud,
two plentiful waterings, during April and makes a hole in it with her pro-
and the present month, with strong | boscis ; she fixes herself at the hole,
soapsuds, will generally prevent the , lays one egg, and goes on till she has

evil. — Johnson's Gard. Almanack

A. lactuctE, Lettuce fly. Mr. Curtis in separate buds.

deposited a considerable number of eggs

says, " The larva; first make their ap

•The bud continues to swell and the

pearance in August, but they are abund- petals nearly expand, when suddenly
ant in September; they closely resemble ' the growth ceases and the petals wither
those from the Cabbage and Turnip, and assume a shrivelled appearance. If
being of a yellowish-white colour, taper- one of these flower buds be examined

ANT

41

A PH

when nearly expanded, a small white
grain with a black head will be found in
the centre, which beijins to assume a
yellowish colour; a few days later the
grub will be found either wholly or
partially chanj^ed to a beetle, and should
there be a small hole on the side of the
receptacle the beetle will have escaped;
the transformation from the etrg to the

APHELANDRA cristata. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

APHELEXIS. Four species. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat
and sandy loam.

APHI.S, the Plant Louse, Puceron, or
Vine fretter. This insect, so destructive
from its multitude, attacks fruit trees,

perfect state not having occupied more juicy kitchen vegetables, and other
than a month. When this beetle, which plants, weakening and rendering them
is dark brown with grey stripes, leaves incapable of development by sucking
the receptacle, it feeds during the sum- from them their juices. The exhaustion
mer on the leaves of the trees, and is thus occasioned is sometimes so corn-
seldom to be seen. In the autumn, the plete as to destroy the plant. Each
weevils leave the trees and search for vegetable subject to its ravages has its
convenient hiding-places under stones peculiar species

about the trees, or under the rough bark,
in which they pass the winter.

•Consequently, as they commence

Aphis pyri mall is of a grass green
colour, attacking the apple and pear.
A. persica is dark green, and is pe-

their operations early in the spring, care culiar to the peach and nectarine
should be taken to remove all stones, ^. pr«ni ravages the plum tribes, and
dead leaves, and other litter from under is a very light green,
the trees, as well as to scrape off the A. rosa. Light green, found upon
rough dead bark from them in the winter the rose genus.

A.fabcc, known popularly as the Black
Dolphin and Elephant, is black, and at-
tacks the common bean.

The tops of beans attacked by the
Black Dolphin should be forthwith re-

season.

" The apple weevil is also very in-
jurious to pear trees." — Card. Chron.

A N T H O P H Y U M lanceolatum. A
stove fern. Seed. Liiilit rich soil.

ANTHOSPER M U M athiopicum.
Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

ANTH YLLIS. Twenty-two species.
Hardy herbaceous and green-house ever-
greens. Seeds or cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

ANTIDESMA. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Rich loam

moved; and smaller plants may be sy-
ringed with tobacco-water, or water in
which elder leaves have been boiled ;
which applications are all fatal to the
aphis.

A. pisi is green, and affects the pea.

A. lonicera. Woodbine louse. Dingy
green.

A. cerasi, Morello cherry louse. Ap-

ANTIRRHINUM. Snap-dragon, pears black. Infests the under sides of
Twelve species. Hardy herbaceous, the leaves, especially on wet soils

except A. asarina and molle, which are
half-hardy evergreens. Cuttings or seeds.
Common soil.

ANTLER MOTH. Charicas.

ANTWERP HOLLYHOCK. Althaa
ficifolia.

ANYCHIA dichotoma. Hardy bien-
nial. Division and seed. Sand and
loam.

A O T U S . Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam and sandy peat.

APEIB.\. Four species. Stove ever-
green trees. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

APHANANTHE celosioides. Green-

A. coryli, Nut louse. Pale green.

A. Dahlia, Dahlia louse. Amber
coloured.

A . rihis, Red currant louse. Blackish.

A.ligust7-i, Privet louse. Dark brown.

A. ribis-nigri. Black currant louse.
Transparent green.

A. lathyri. Sweet pea louse. Dark
purple.

A. [Cinara) raphani. Radish louse.
Females, green ; males, lightish red.

The aphides on the peach appear the
earliest, being, as are all the others, the
produce of eggs deposited during the
previous autumn. During the spring and

house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat summer they are viviparous, and breed

and loam. with extraordinary rapidity. The gar-

APHANOCHILUS incisus. Hardy dener does well, therefore, to scrub the

herbaceous. Cuttings. Light soil. , branches of his wall trees, and to boil

APH

42

APP

or change the shreds every winter, for
he thus destroys the pest in embryo. So
soon as they appear in s])ring, over eacli
wall tree a mat should be fastened, and
tobacco burnt beneath it. Peas, wliilst
the dew is upon them, may be dusted
with Scotch snuff. Over the apple, plum,
and other standards, the only available
remedy is a repeated application of
quicklime, at the same early period of
the day, by the means of Curtis' Lime
Duster. Most of these insects are readily
destroyed by an a{)plication of diluted
whale oil soap; it is probable a solution
of common soft soap would be equally
effective. The inexperienced operator
should be careful lest he apply it in too
powerful a state.

The larva; of the Coccinella or Lady-
bird, especially C. punctata, \.\\e Syrphus
or bee-like fly, the ifemc»"o6/ws or golden-
eyed fly, the ant, some caterpillars, and
many of the Ichneumonida, are great
destroyers of the Aphis, and should be
encouraged rather than removed. See
American Blight.

APHYLLANTHES monspelien-
sis. Half-hardy herbaceous. Division
and seed. Sandy peat.

APICRA. Twelve species. Green-
house succulents. Suckers. Sandy loam
and peat.

APIOS tuherosa. Hardy tuber. Root.
Sand and peat.

APIUM. Six species. See Celery,
Celeriac, and Parsley.

APONOGETON. Four species.
Stove or green-house aquatics. Offsets
or seeds. Loam and peat in water.

APPLE. {Pyrus malus.)

Varieties. — There are 1,496 named
varieties in the last edition of the
London Horticultural Society's List of
P'ruits, of which they have 897 cultivat-
ed in their gardens. It may readily be
presumed that in such a multitude there
are many of inferior quality: indeed it is
not improbable there are some utterly
unworthy of culture. The object in thus
congregating them was praiseworthy —
to determine their comparative value.
The true policy is evidently to select
from the mass those which, from some
special quality, are most deserving of
perpetuity. The following named va-
rieties are believed to be eminently
wortliy of culture. We copy from the
catalogue of D. Landreth and Fulton.

Explanation of Abbreviations. — Colour — r red ; str striped; y yellow ;
: green. Size — l large; m medium; s small.

Those marked * are of American origin.
Those marked t are celebrated for the table.

SUMMER APPLES.

CO-

H

NAME. LOUR.

FORM.

N

&

SEASON.

Red Astrachan ....

r

roundish

M

July

to Aug.

*tBevan

str r

flat

L

July

Aug.

English Codlin

y

•conical

L

Aug.

Sept.

tEarly Queen

r str

roundish

M

July

Aug.

*tEarly Harvest

y

roundish

M

July

Aug.

Summer Queen

str

roundish

M

July

Aug.

*Lippincott

r

oblong

M

July

Aug.

Siberian Crab

y

conical

S

Aug.

Oct.

Woolman's Harvest

str

roundish

'm

Aug.

Sept.

*tSummer Pearmain

r

oblong

L

Aug.

Sept.

Juneating Red

y str

ovate^

M

July

Aug,

Alexander
tBaldwin
*tBellflower, Yellow
*Carthouse
Codlin Irish

FALL AND WINTER APPLES.

y str

conical

L

I

roundish

L

1

conical

L

1

flat

M

1

conical

L

2

Oct. to Dec.

Nov. Mar.

Oct. Feb.

Dec. Apl.

Oct. Dec.

APP

43

APP

Codlin White .

*Cumberlaiid Spice

Doctor or Deicitt

*tGreenine;, Rhode Island

Ladies' Sweeting

Gates' Apple .

*Grindstone

Gravenstien

Hawthoriiden .

Harrison

Lady Apple, pomme d' Ap

Tolman's Sweeting .

Lady Finger

*tMaiden's Blush

*Morgan

*tNortliern Spy

Pearmain, Blue winter

*Pcnnock's Red

Pippin, Bullock
" Golden
" *American
" *Michael Henry
" Fall, or Holland
" Blenheim
" Ribston
" *Hollo\v Core
" *tGreen Newton
*' *tyellow Newton

Priestley

Pound Apple

♦tPorter

*tRoxbury Russet .

Roman Stem

Rambo

^Seck-no-further, Red

Newton Spitzenburg

*tSpitzenburg, Esopus

*tSpitzenburg, Kaighn^s

Sweeting, Moore-s

*Swaar

*tTewksbury Blush

*tVandervere

*Wine, or Hay's

*Winesap

*\Vinter Queen

Yorkshire Greening

The following outlines and descrip- I
tions of a few prominent varieties of
apples, may be interesting to those who
do not possess a more elaborate work,
or one wholly devoted to Fruits, and are
inserted with a desire to increase the
popular character of the Dictionary, and
render it of increased interest to the
mass of readers.

y

conical l

2 Oct.

to Dec.

y

flat M

1 1 Nov.

Feb.

str

roundish l

2

Oct.

Jan.

g

roundish | l

Oct.

Feb.

y r

roundish | l

Oct.

Apl.

y

roundish ji

Nov.

Feb.

str

roundish j i.

Oct.

June

str

roundish 1 i.

1 Oct.

Nov.

y

roundish

L

1 Oct.

Dec.

y

conical

M

Nov.

Apl.

y

flat

s

Nov.

Mar.

y

roundish m

Nov.

Mar.

r

oblong

M

Nov.

Feb.

y ■■

flat

M

Sept.

Nov.

r

roundish

L

Oct.

Dec.

r

conical

L

Dec.

April

r

conical

L

Nov.

Jan.

g

roundish

L

Nov.

Mar.

y

roundish j s

Dec.

Mar.

y

roundish s

Nov.

Mar.

y

roundish l

Dec.

Mar.

y

oblong M

Nov.

Mar.

y

flat L

Oct.

Jan.

y

roundish l

2

Nov.

Jan.

y

roundish m

1 Nov.

Jan.

y

roundish l

1 Nov.

Mar.

g

roundish m 1 Dec.

April

y

roundish

M 1 j Dec.

April

str

oblong

L

1 Dec.

April

g

roundish

L

2 Oct.

Jan.

y

oblong

L

1 j Sept.

Nov.

roundish

L

1 1 Dec.

May

y

round

L

1 i Oct.

Jan.

y

flat

M

1 Oct.

Dec.

r

round

L

1 Nov.

Apl.

y •■

roundish

M

2 ! Nov.

Feb.

str

conical

L

1 i Nov.

Apl.

r

round i.

1 Nov.

April

y

round

L

1 1 Dec.

Mar.

y

roundish

J.

1 ' Nov.

Mar.

r

round

S

1

Jan.

May

y

flat

M

1

Oct.

Feb.

r

round l ■ 1

Nov.

Mar.

r

round

M 1

Nov.

Apl.

r

conical

L 2 Nov.

Mar.

g

round

L

1

1 Dec.

Feb.

SuMMKR Queen. Coxe. (Fig. 1.)
This is quite a distinct variety from one
long known around Philadelphia as the
Early Queen. It is of full medium
size, the outline in some specimens
rather longer than broad, the blossom
end occasionally quite pointed. Skin
yellow, clouded and striped with red,
so much so in some instances as to

APP

44

APP

obscure the ground colour. Flesh yel- j of uncommonly beautiful appearance,
low, rich and aromatic. Stem long, It is certainly a superior dessert fruit ;
deeply planted, llipe in August, but j its sprightly aroma is agreeable to most
fit for cooking in July. Coxe describes i palates, and makes it a popular apple in
it as an apple of the finest quality, and 1 the Philadelphia market.

Fig. 1.— (P. 43.)

Summer Pearmain. Coxe. (Fig. 2.)
This is unquestionably the finest apple
of its season, possessing more of the
character of the pear than an ordinary
apple ; its appearance is by no means
prepossessing, and those who look to
exteriors only would pass it by unno-
ticed. The colour is usually dull red,
slightly streaked and spotted, occasion-
ally in the sun of a brighter hue. Coxe
says it has proved well adapted to light
lands, and correctly describes it as
singularly tender, bursting from its own
weight, when falling. The outline is
oblong, uniformly regular; stem and
calyx deeply seated ; ripe in August and
September.

WooLMAN's Harvest. {Striped
Harvest.) (Fig. 3.) This apple is
known in New Jersey as above ; its ori-
gin is obscure, nor have we found it
described by any American authority.

The size is much below medium, weigh-
ing scarcely two ounces. Ground colour
a delicate whitish yellow, beautifully
streaked and pencilled with bright red
of different depths, giving it rather an
artificial aspect, as though an artist had
coloured it to suit his fancy; flesh white,
crisp and tender, juicy, but not rich: —
its early maturity commends it to notice;
ripe in July.

Maiden's Blush. Coxe. (Fig. 4.)
There is not, perhaps, a more popular
summer apple in the Philadelphia mar-
ket than this; it ripens in August, and
is in fruitful seasons abundant until the
first of October. The size is above me-
dium ; skin smooth, yellow, with a lively
carmine cheek ; the general outline is
flattened. Flesh white, tender, admi-
rably adapted to drying. Stem short,
and both it and the eye seated in a
deep cavity. The habit of the tree is

APP

45

APP

Fig. 2— (P. 44.)

Fig. 3.— (P. 44.)

vigorous, forming an open and rather
spreading head.

Early Bough. Ken. {Bough Apple.
Coxe.) (Fig. 5.) The Early Bougli is
frequently above medium size ; outline
rather longer than broad. Stem seldom
rising to the crown of the fruit. Skin
smooth, of a pale yellow hue. Flesh
white, with more than ordinary juice ;
sweet and well-flavoured, though by no

means rich. It is of fair quality, and
because of its early maturity generally
esteemed, llipe in July and August.

IIagloe. {Hagloe Crab of Coxe:
Downing.) (Fig. 6.) There is evidently
sonic blunder as regards this apple,
which was imported by Coxe, and de-
scribed by him. It is unquestionably
not the Hagloe Crab of the English, a
cider apple of high repute, to which,

AP P

46

APP

Fig. 4.— (P. 44.)

APP

47

APP

it is believed, this has no pretension, medium, and great beauty, rccom-

It is said that Coxe himself discovered mend it for the table. The prevail-

the error, and designed correcting it in ing colour is yellow, streaked with

a future edition of his work. It occurred red of darker or lighter shades, and

from the label having been lost in the with a delicate bloom on well-ripened

original package, and a loose Hagloe
Crab label being found, was supposed to
attach to the tree in question.

It is now well known in Pennsylvania

specimens. The outline round, some-
times a little irregular. Stem short;
the eye deeply seated. The flesh is
soft and woolly, as it is termed, which

and New Jersev, as the Hagloe, the of course detracts from its quality as a
Crab having been dropped, and is much table fruit. Ripe, August and Septem-
esteemed in the Philadelphia market i ber.
as a cooking apple; its fair size, above I

Fig. 6.— (P. 45.)

Early Queen. (Fig. 7.) The ap-
ple here represented, has been known
for many years around Philadelphia by
the above name ; it is one of the earli-
est seen in our market, making its ap-
pearance early in July and continuing
throughout August. When ripened in
the sun it is nearly of a uniform aspect
— striped and clouded with red of darker
or lighter shades on a greenish-yellow
ground, the red frequently the prevail-
ing colour : others ripened in the shade
have but little red, the stripes more dis-
tinctly marked on a greenish ground,
thus presenting fruit from the same tree

of very different appearance. The size
is in good specimens, above medium ;
outline rather flattened, and narrowing
towards the blossom end. Calyx quite
small, nearly closed and set in a shal-
low basin. Stem short, seldom rising
to the crown of the fruit. Flesh white,
with occasional pink streaks and clouds;
crisp, and when over ripe, mealy.

Baldwin. Ken : Down. (Fig. 8.)
The Baldwin, partially known as the
Woodpecker, is nearly confined to New
England ; but ought to be an apple of
the world. It has few superiors, and is
1 above average quality in all respects.

APP

48

Fig. 7.— (P. 47.)

APP

Fig. 8.— (P. 47.)

AP P

49

APP

Its flavour is rich and sprightly. Flesh
yellowish and crisp ; few taste it with-
out admiration.

The outline is round, flattened atthe
stem end and narrowing towards the
eye; ground colour yellow obscured by
red and crimson shading and slightly
marked by russet near the stem, which
is rather deeply planted. In season
from November to March.

Lady Apple. Coie. {Pomme d'
Api. Rouge. Petit and Gros Api.
Rouge, of the French.) (Fig. 9.) The
small size of this beautiful fruit may be

an objection with many, but it is un-
doubtedly worthy a place in every
orchard irom its exquisite beauty and
line quality. The Lady Apple is highly
prized wherever quality, rather than
bulk is considered as the test of value.
At Philadelphia it is a great favourite,
and commands ready sale. The out-
line is flat, colour when well ripened a
lively yellow, with a bright carmine
cheek. Flesh white and crisp; juice
sprightly and agreeable ; bears abund-
antly. Ripe in December, and keeps
well during winter.

Fiff. 9.

Gloria Mundi. Thomp. Mon-
strous Pippen. Coxe. Golden Ball. Ken.
(Fig. 10.) Coxe says this imposing ap-
ple originated on Long Island, N. Y.
Downing supposes it to be originally
from Maine; the fact is unimportant. Its
large size renders it an object of popular
regard; it is an admirable cooking ap-
ple though not profitable, from liability
lo be blown off prematurely. Skin
yellow, marked by bright spots or dots.
Flesh juicy and sprightly. The outline
is round; stem short; eye bushy. In
season, November to March. A speci-
men at the Pennsylvania Horticultural
Society's exhibition, September, 1846.
weighed 27 ounces.

Bell Flower. (Fig. 11.) "A re-
markably large, beautiful and excel-
lent apple, both for the dessert and
for cooking — it is of a pale, but bright
and fair yellow colour; the cheek next
the sun has sometimes a blush, but more
frequently is without any red : the form
is oblong, somewhat pointed at the
blossom end — both ends are deeply in-
dented— the flesh is rich, juicy, tender
and sprightly ; it has uncommonly large
full seeds, which are lodged in a peri-
4

carpium of unusual size, and if shaken
can be distinctly heard ; it ripens late
in October, when its great weight
causes it to fall in windy weather — if
carefully picked before they are too
ripe, tlicy will keep in high perfection
through the winter, till late in the
spring, especially when they are shrivel-
led or wilted — from their beauty and
excellence, they arc the most popular
apple in the Philadelphia market: the
tree grows very large and spreading; it
should be trained high, or the liinbs will
touch the ground when in full bearing; it
succeeds best on light rich soils." — Coxe.
Rhode Island Greening. — Coxe.
(Fig. 12.) A well known variety, ex-
tensively disseminated throughout the
Atlantic States. The size is large;
outline round ; skin of a yellowish
green ; sometimes, though very sel-
dom of a faint blush-like hue towards
the stem. The flesh is crisp, abounding
in juice, finely flavoured; stem short.
Calyx rather small for so large an ap-
ple, and placed in a shallow basin. In
season from October to January, some-
times later.

APP

50

Fig. 10.— (P. 49.)

APP

New England Russet. Boston or
Roxbury Russet or Russeting. (Fig.
13.) This is claimed as a native of
Massachusetts, and is held throughout
New England in high repute. It is
usually considered the best of its class
popularly termed "leather-coats." The
size is full medium ; form irregularly
round, flattened at both stem and blos-
som end. When fully ripe of a russet
hue, occasionally with indications of
blush. It is in season at mid-winter,
but may be kept till May or June; in-
deed they may be seen sometimes in

July. This property of long keeping in
connection with its productive habit,
has secured it great popularity.

Yellow Newtown Pippin. (Fig.
14.) " This is in most of its varieties
the finest apple of our country, and
probably of the world. It varies much
in quality, with soil, aspect, cultivation,
climate and age. The form is rather
flat, the size large, the skin a greenish
yellow, with black clouds, and fre-
quently with red spots or blotches. It
ripens in November, and is often kept
t till May and June. It will produce fine

APP

51

APP

Fig. 11.— (P. 49.)

%^

apples on even a light sandy soil, aided
by the application of river or meadow
mud as a manure, two or three cart
loads to a tree." — Coxe.

WiNF. Apple. (Fig. 1.5.) This is a
well known variety in Philadelphia. It
is unusually large, and attractive from
its beautifully fair and handsome ap-
pearance. The outline is round, rather
flattened at the poles; prevailing colour
rod, shaded and spotted with yellow.
.Stalk quite short, never rising to the
crown of the fruit, which is occasion-
ally of a russet hue, Calyx large and
deeply seated, ripe in October, and in
eating through the antumn and winter.
It is equally adapted to the table,
kitchen and press. The habit of the
tree is open, growth large and hand-
some.

.-Esopus Spitzenburg. Thomp. Lind.
Ken. (Fig. 16.) There are but few,
very few apples to which higher rank is
awarded than to this variety, which has
the rare advantage of beauty and good-
ness combined. It is said to have origi-
nated at j^Lsopus on the Hudson river.
The size full medium, with an oblong out-
line. Skin fair and smooth, of a fine clear
red, in some specimens of a brilliant hue
on the sunny side, the opposite of a yel-
lowish cast. Flesh yellow, and in thelan-
guage ofCoxe, "singularly rich, juicy and
sprightly." Stem of medium length, well
planted. Calyx in a shallow depression.
In season November to February.

IvAicirN's SpiTzrNBURG. Coxe. (Fig.
17.) This variety takes its name from
the original cultivator, the late Joseph
Kaighn, of Kaighn's Point, New Jersey.

APP 52

•

ricr 12— V -10 '

APP

APP

53

APP

14.— (P. 50.)

It somewhat resembles the .^sopus
Spitzenburg. Colour bright red, deli-
cately streaked and marked by white
dots, which strongly characterize it.
Skin smooth ; flesh juicy and well
flavoured ; stem rather long, deeply
seated ; blossom end frequently more
pointed than in the drawing.

Propagation by seed. — When it is in-
tended to raise stocks to be engrafted,
the only matter to be observed in se-
lecting the seed is, that it be from vigo-
rous healthy trees. Keep the seed in
sand, or earth moderately damp, during
autumn and winter, and sow quite early
in the spring, and in drills, so as to ad-
mit of more easy culture. The second
season the young stocks may be trans-
planted, and again the third season,
'each transplantation tending to secure
success on the final transfer to the or-
chard ground.) When three years old,
they will be, if well managed, stout
stocks, ready for grafting.

Where the object is to produce new
varieties, select the^seed from favourite
fruits and sow as above directed.

If it be the purpose to allow the seed-
lings to bear, 'they may be suffered to
remain where they have first grown, or
they may he transplanted to any other
position. But a more speedy method

to reach results is to graft a shoot of
the seedling in a branch of a vigorous
tree. The second season fruit may be
obtained, especially if the shoot is bent
downwards, or inclined, so as to arrest
the free flow of sap, which would rather
tend to preserve wood than fruit. By
this means curiosity can be early satis-
fied, and those which prove worthless,
by far the larger portion, cast out as
cumberers of the ground.

Mr. Knight states that " the width
and thickness of the leaf generally in-
dicates the size of the future apple, but
will by no means convey any correct
idea of the merits of the future fruit.

" When these have the character of
high cultivation, the qualities of the
fruit w-ill be far removed from those of
the native species; but the apple may
be insipid or highly flavoured, green or
deeply coloured, and of course well or
ill-calculated to answer the purposes of
the planter. An early blossom in the
spring, and an early change of colour
in the autumnal leaf, would naturally
be supposed to indicate a fruit of early
maturity, but I have never been able to
discover any criterion of this kind on
which the smallest dependence may be
placed. The leaves of some varieties
will become yellow and fall otf, leaving

APP

64

APP

Fig. 15.— (P. 51.)

i

the fruit green and immature; and the
leaves in other kinds will retain their
verdure long after the fruit has perished.
The plants whose buds in the annual
wood are full and prominent are usually
more productive than thoKe wliose buds
are small and shrunk in the bark ; but
their future produce will depend much
on the power the blossoms possess of
bearing the cold, and this power varies
in the varieties, and can only be known
from experience. Those which pro-
duce their leaves and blossoms rather
early in the spring are generally to be
preferred, for, though they are more
exposed to injury from frost, they less fre-
quently suffer from the attacks of insects

— the more common cause of allure.
The disposition to vegetate early or
late in the spring, is, like almost every
other quality in the apple tree, trans-
ferred in different degrees to its off-
spring ; and the planter must therefore
seek those qualities in the parent tree
which he wishes to find in the future
seedling plants. The^^best method I
have been able to discover of obtaining
such fruits as vegetate very early in the
spring, has been by introducing the
farina of the Siberian Crab into the blos-
som of a rich and early apple, and by
transferring, in the same manner, the
farina of the apple to the blossom of the
Siberian Crab. The leaf and the habit

APP

53

APP

Fig. 16.— (P. 51.)

Ik

of many of the plants that I have thus
obtained, possess much of the character
of the apple, whilst they vegetate as
early in the spring as the crab of Sibe-
ria, and possess at least an equal power
of bearing cold ; and I possess two
plants of the family which are quite as
hardy as the most austere crab of our
woods."

By cuttings. — All the varieties may
be raised in this mode, though some,
as the Burr-knot, Codling, and June-
eating, more readily than others. Trees
80 raised are said to be not so liable as
their parents to canker. In February
take cuttings of young shoots from some
of the horizontal branches, about eight
inches long, cutting off a portion of the
old wood of the branch attached to the
shoot ; remove all the buds except the
upper three. Plant these firmly in
sandy loam, giving water and covering
with a hand-glass until the cuttings have
well vegetated. Shade from the mid-
day sun; remove the hand-glass in Au-

gust; and remove the plants into the
nursery early in November.

Soil. — The most favourable soil is a
strong loam, two feet deep, on a dry
subsoil, thoroughly drained, for stag-
nant root moisture induces canker and
moss.

Planting. — The soil should be trench-
ed, and some cultivators place imme-
diately beneath each tree, according to
the extent of its roots, chalk, stones,
or brick-bats rammed so as to form a
kind of pavement to direct the roots
horizontally. Plant so that the roots
nearest the surface are twelve inches
below it.

Espaliers. — In America the apple is
seldom trained as an Espalier, though
they might thus be cultivated in gar-
dens of limited extent, and in some
cases serve a double purpose, affording
shade and fruit. When first planted
the young plant is cut down to within
about a foot of the ground, and only
three shoots permitted to spring from it,

APP

56

APP

Fig. 17.— (P .51.)

one of which will be the leader, and
the others will form the first or lower
tier of bearing branches, which are to
be secured to small stakes, so as to
keep them in their proper places.

The following season the upright
leader must be shortened to nine inches
or a foot above the two horizontal
branches, and deprived of all its shoots
excepting the three uppermost, which
are to be treated the same as before.
In this way the leading shoot is to be
stopped at the requisite distance above
the horizontal ones, until it has reached
the height of five feet. It is then cut
off, and no more allowed to grow up-
right, the whole strength of the tree
being directed to the fruiting branches.
— Gard. Chron.

Espalier apple trees should be at not
less than twenty feet distance ; butfive-
and-thirty feet is better, especially for
trees grarted on crab or apple stocks,
which are free shooters ; for trees graft-
ed on codlin and paradise stocks eigh-
teen or twenty feet may be a sufficient
distance. They should be planted with

their heads entire, only removing any
very irregular growths that do not range
consistent with the intended form, and
pruning any broken roots. Let all the
branches be trained horizontally to the
right and left, an equal number on each
side, all at full length, five or six inches
asunder, and, according as they shoot
in summer, still continue them along
entire. At the same time train in a
further supply of new shoots, to increase
the number of horizontals or bearers,
and thus continue increasing their num-
bers every year, till the espalier is
regularly filled from the bottom to top,
preserving all the branches at full
length, as far as the allotted space will
admit.

They must have a summer and a
winter pruning annually; in the sum-
mer cut out all the superfluous and ill-
placed shoots of the year, and train
regular ones towards the lower parts in
vacant spaces, at least to remain till
winter, some of which may be then
wanted to fill some unforeseen vacancy,
clearing out all others at this time as

APP

57

APR

close as poi5sibIe. And in winter, if middle of the head, and all dead wood
any worn out or decayed parts appear, ' and suckers from the stem and root.

then is the time to retrench them, re-
taining young brandies in their places, \
and if any vacancy occurs, retain some j
contiguous young shoot to fill it. Cut ;
clean out close to the branches, still i
continuing all the branches, and any
occasional supply of shoots, at full !
length, as far as their limited bounds
will allow; then train the whole regu- |
larly, tying them in as straight and

Some persons, however, prefer more
pruning, and Mr. Clarke, gardener to
the Earl of Lonsdale, says, " My sea-
son for pruning commences as soon as
the fruit is taken ofl' the trees, and con-
tinues to the middle of March ; during
that time cut out all the ill-placed
shoots, such as incline to grow towards
the centre, or into each other, and
leave untouched all those that stand in

close to the railing as possible, about such a way that the tree will form a cup,
six inches asunder. or something like a well blown tulip,

Standards, or Orchard Trees. — The all the branches standing perfectly clear
standards having been trained in the i of each other, so that they will bear
nursery with tolerably good heads, they | fruit on the inside, the sun and air get-
should be planted with those heads en- t ting to all parts of the tree alike. Keep
tire ; if any are intended for the kitchen j fruit trees as low as possible ; this may
garden, plant them at least forty feet be done by removing a limb when it is
distance; and, for a full plantation, to "
form an orchard, allow thirty feet dis- j
tance every way.

Trim any broken roots, but leave all
the others entire.

As soon as planted, let every one be
well staked, to support them firmly up-

likely to get over tall, leaving a younj:
shoot at a proper place to succeed it.
The apple is in America a hardy robust
tree, and succeeds admirably through-
out the middle and western states,
though it were desirable it should re-
ceive more attention than is frequently
right, and prevent their being disturbed I bestowed on it. Its principal enemy is

in rooting by winds.

Smaller growing standards, such as
codlins and dwarfs upon paradise stocks,
may, if required, be planted only at
twenty feet distance, though, if there
is room to allow a greater distance, it
will be the greater advantage.

Let them also, in future, advance with
all their branches at full length, taking
their own natural growth, and they
will soon form numerous natural spurs
in every part for bearing.

With respect to pruning these stand-
ards very little is required, probably
not more than once in several years,
and then only the retrenching any very
irregular cross-placed bough, or reduc-
ing to order any very long rambler; or
when the head is become greatly crowd-
ed and confused, to thin out some of
the most irregular growth, likewise all
strong shoots growing upright in the

the " Borer," {Saperda bivittata), which
deposits Its eggs in the body of the tree
near the ground. The insects perforate
the wood, causing disease, and if un-
disturbed ultimately death. The reme-
dy is the frequent use of pliant wire
thrust into the wound, so as to pierce
the grub ; a mound of ashes around the
trunk is beneficial — alkali being ex-
tremely offensive to insects.

For full directions as to the manage-
ment of apple trees see the " Fruit Cul-
ttirist,'''' by Thomas. " Fruits of Ame-
rica," by Downing. *' Kenrick's Or-
chardist."

Al'PLE-BARK BEETLE. Bostri-
chiis.

APRICOT, (Armeniaca vulgaris.)

Varieties. — The following list is from
the catalogue of D. Landreth and Ful-
ton, Philadelphia: —

APR

58

APR

Color.

>.

y. yellow.

Size.

Season of

Name.

o. orange.

Form.

M. medium.

"3

3

ripening

Remarks.

r. red.

L. large.

at Philad.

1. Roman.

y-

oblong

M.

2

Aug.

Very produc-

Abricot Commun.

tive and ex-

Large French.

cellent.

2. Breda.

0.

round

M.

1

Aug.

Highly flavor-

Holland.

ed, produc-

Brussels.

tive.

3. Large Early,

o.

oblong

L.

1

July.

Excellent.

4. Moor Park.

0. r.

round

L.

1

Aug.

Considered

Abricot Peche.

the finest.

De Nancy.

5. Masculine Red.

o. r.

M.

2

July.

Earliest.

Early Red Masculine.

Brown Masculine.

6. Orange.

0.

round

M.

2

Aug.

Abundant

Royal Persian.

bearer, good

Early Orange.

flavor.

7. Peach.

0. r.

round

L.

1

Aug.

Good and

De Nancy.

productive.

Lalbner's Peach.

8. Turkey.

y-

round

L.

1

Aug.

Large Turkey.

Propagation is best done by budding
on a plum or peach stock in August
or September, as the state of the
wood may make expedient. European
gardeners usually, for dwarfs, bud
at eight inches from the ground ; for
half-standards at three feet ; and for
standards at five feet. But that is un-
important, the subsequent treatment of
the tree may adapt it to the required
purpose. With us it is the general
practice to bud near the ground, and
the usage would imply the practice has
proved correct.

Planting. — The best plants are with
one stem, free from gum, clean barked ;
and the more vigorous the better. They
may be safely transplanted at any time
in autumn after vegetation has ceased,
until the buds are about to expand in
spring.

Aspect. — An eastern or western wall
is best ; for on a south aspect the fruit
becomes mealy even before it is ripe.
A northern exposure sometimes proves
most successful, as the bloom is late,
and escapes frost, which is fatal to those
in more sheltered situations. As a
standard, the apricot is some years be-
fore it bears, but it is then very prolific
and high flavored. i

Soil. — The usual mellow loam of
gardens is well suited to the apricot ; j

but its roots should be kept at less than
eighteen inches from the surface, and
the border be well drained.

Training. — The branches should be
on an average six inches apart, and
kept as horizontal as possible. The
nearer the form can be kept to the fol-
lowing (Fig. IS) the better, unless the
tree be weak, in which case the

Fig. 18.

branches may be trained a little more
vertical.

Pruning must be regulated by the
knowledge that, with the exception of
the Moor Park, each variety bears
chiefly on the shoots of the previous

APR

69

APR

years. The Moor Park mostly on spurs
upon two and three years' old branches.

Siim7ner Pruning. — Take off all fore-
right shoots and others that are irregular
and misplaced ; reserving those that are
vigorous and that will train in well for
next year's bearing. If done early in
May the finger and thumb will super-
sede the knife for this pruning. Con-
tinue to nail the shoots to the wall as
necessary during all the summer. Over-
vigorous shoots may be topped in June,
and be thus induced to put forth more
fertile laterals.

Winter Pruning had best be done as
soon as the leaves have fallen, though
it may be carried on until the buds be-
gin to swell in March. Cut out the
most naked of the two previous years'
shoots, and old branches not well sup-
plied with young wood, to have their
places re-occupied by younger and bet-
ter branches. Keep a leading shoot at
the end of each branch. Vigorous
shoots of the last year shorten about
one-eighth — weaker shoots about one-
half This promotes the production of
laterals for next year's fruiting, and
gives a fuller supply of sap to the blos-
som buds ; but if the shortening is too
great, the latter will be converted to
leaf-buds. Cut off all fore-right spurs ;
but lateral spurs may be retained, as
they sometimes produce blossom buds,
as they always do in the Moor Park.

Espaliers are to be formed as those
on wails, and standards only require
dead, crowded, or chaffing branches to
be removed.

When an apricot gets old and dis-
eased, it is much more j)rofitable to re-
place it by a younger, than to attempt
its renovation.

Gathering should take place before
the fruit is quite ripe, or it will be
mealy.

Thinning, as soon as the fruit is large
enough for tarts, in May or early in
June, should be boldly done, no fruit
being left nearer than six inches to
another.

Insects. — Wasps and flies are best
kept off by a net, not nearer than a foot
to the wall.

Mildew is often the most formidable
assailant of the apricot, as it usually
arises from excess of moisture to the
root ; draining the border, and mixing
lime with the soil, will be in such case
found efficacious as a preventive, and

at the time a syringing with water
containing one-eighth of gas ammonia-
cal liquor.

APRIL. In this fickle month the
sheltering of wall fruit requires particu-
lar attention. F2asterly blighting winds
always prevail towards its close, and
early in May.

The work required to be attended to
in the various departments in the lati-
tude of Philadelphia, is as follows. It
should be performed early or later as
we reside south or north of that lati-
tude : —

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Alexanders, sow. — Angelica, sow. —
Artichokes, plant, b. or dress. — Aspara-
gus, sow, plant, force, and dress beds.
— Balm, plant. — Basil, sow. — Beans,
sow, hoe. — Beets, sow, b. — Borecole,
sow, prick out, leave for seed. — Bro-
coli, sow. — Borage, sow. — Burnets,
sow, and plant. — Cabbages, sow, plant.
— Capsicum, sow. — Cardoons, sow. —
Carraway, sow. — Carrots, sow, weed.
— Cauliflou'crs, late, sow in open
ground, b. — Celery, sow, leave for seed.
— Chamomile, plant. — Chives, plant. —
Chervil, sow, leave for seed. — Cole-
worts, plant. — Clary, sow. — Cress, sow.
— Cucumbers, sow. — Dill, sow. — Earth-
ing-up, attend to. — Fennel, sow or
plant. — Finochio, sow. — Garlic, plant,
b. — Horse-radish, plant, b. — Hotbeds,
make and attend. — Hyssop, sow, plant.
— Jerusalem Artichokes, plant, b. — Kale
(Sea), sow and plant, b. ; dress beds. —
Kidney beans (dwarfs), sow ; (runners),
sow, e. — Lavender, plant. — Leeks, sow,
b. e. ; leave for seed. — Lettuces, sow
weekly; plant from frames. — Marigolds,
sow. — Marjorams, sow and plant. —
Melons, sow. — Mustard, and Cress,
sow; leave for seed. — Mushroom beds,
make ; attend to. — Mint, plant. — Nas-
turtiums, sow. — Onions, sow, b. e. ;
weed ; plant and for seed ; (Potatoe and
Tree), plant, b. — Parsley, sow ; leave
for seed ; (Hamburgh), sow. — Parsnips,
sow, b. ; hand weed. — Peas, sow ; hoe;
stick. — Pen7iy-royal, pla.nt. — Pompions,
sow, b. — Potatoes, plant; attend forc-
ing.— Purslane, sow. — Radishes, sow ;
thin. — Rape, sow. — Rocambole, plant. —
Rue, plant. — Salsafy and Savory, sow,
e. — Scorzonera and Skirrcts, sow, e. —
Shallots anii Sag-c, plant, b.—Sorr<?/«, sow
and plant. — Spinach, sow ; thin; leave
for seed. — Tansy and Tarragon, plant.
— Thyme, sow and plant. — Tomatos,

APR

60

APR

sow. — Turnips, sow, b. e. ; plant and move from borders to some place where
for seed. — T-urnip Cabbage, sow. — they can complete their vegetation;
Wormwoods, sow. ; their decayed leaves are unsightly. —

I Carnations, \n pots, give liquid manure,

0RCii\RD. ! and water often; stir the earth; sow,

e. ; plant into borders, b. — Climbing

JppZes may be planted. — B/ossoms of plants, train and regulate. — Dahlias,

wall fruit, protect. — Budded (Trees), ]ast pjant to remain, b., or in pots to for-

siimmer, remove insects from buds, and ^^rd in a frame until May. — Dress the

shoots from stocks below. — Cherries borders, &c., indefatigably. — Ever-

may be planted. — Disbud wall trees of greens, plant, b. ; it is the best season.

superfluous buds. — Forcing fruits, in, — Frames, raise, by supporters at the

hot-house, attend to. — Grafting (late i bottom, as the plants within grow tall.

Roll ; trim edges ; dress with earth if
poor. — Gravel, turn and lay afresh in

kinds of apples, pears, and plums), may
bedone still, b. — Gro/^s, lately inserted,
see that the clay is lirm, and rub off Jjry weather; roll once a week. — Hya-

shoots below the scion. — Heading down
wall and espalier trees, finish, b, if not
done last month. — Insects, search for
and destroy. — Li7ne (early in the morn-
), dust over the leaves of trees infest

cinths, shelter from sun by an awning
or matting over the beds, from nine to
four ; give the same shelter in bad wea-
ther day and night ; those done flower-
ing take up ; separate offsets and store.

ed by caterpillars. — Liquid Manure, — Insects, destroy with tobacco smoke
give to trees newly planted. — Mulch ' - --

round the roots. — Peaches may be
planted. — Pears may be planted. —
Plu7ns may be planted. — Propagating
by layers, cuttings, suckers, and seed,
finish, b. — Pruning, finish, b. ; stop
young shoots. — Stake trees newly
planted. — Strawberries, water daily in
dry weather those in bloom, if dry. —
Vines, propagate by layers and cut-
tings, b.; summer dress; in vineyard
stake and hoe frequently ; old borders
manure. — Wall-fruit, thin generally. —
Wasps, destroy; every one now killed
prevents a nest.

- FLOWER GARDEN.

Annuals (Tender), prick out those
sown in February and March into a hot-
bed ; water often ; sow in hotbed ;

or dusting of Scotch snuff. — Mignonette,
sow in any warm border. — Mulch, put
round trees newly planted. — Pinks,
sow. — Polyanthuses, sow; plant out
and propagate by offsets, b. ; last year's
seedlings now in bloom, mark best for
propagating. — Potted Plants, give fresh
earth to, if not done last month ; shift
into larger; water freely. — Perennials,
those sown last spring may still be
planted, and propagated by offsets ;
finisli sowing. — Sticks are required to
blooming plants. — Tulips , take off pods
to strengthen bulbs. — Watering plants
in pots is now required more frequent-
ly, yet moderately ; give it early in the
morning.

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit freely during the day. —

(Hardy), may be sown in borders, &c., ^ Bark Beds, renew if not done in March,
to remain; thin those advancing. — Au- — Figs, first crop ripening, require
riculas in bloom, shelter. (See i/i/a- ■ abundant light ; syringe to destroy red
cinth.) Supply with water often ; those ' spider ; give little water, and air freely,
for seed plunge pots in a sheltered bor- \ — Flowering Plants in pots, for succes-
der, where they can have sun until ele- ; sion, continue to introduce. — Grafting
ven o'clock; plant offsets ; propagate flowering stove plants is worthy of prac-
by slips; seedlings shade during mid- tice, either to get dwarfs or taller spe-
day. — Anemones and Auriculas done cimens. — Insects, destroy by tobacco
flowering, take up and separate offsets, fumes. — Leaves, clean occasionally,
— Box edgings maybe made, and old either with the sponge or syringe. — Li-
taken up, slipped and replanted. — Bien- quid Manure, apply to fruiting vines and
n/a/s, finish sowing, b.; plant out those other plants requiring vigour. — Mush-
sown last spring. — Bulbs, in water ?-oom House, keep air in moist; wood-
classes, done flowering, plant in ground j lice destroy. — OrchidacecB, shade. — Pot-
after cutting down stalks ; autumn flow- | ted Plants, shift into larger as required,
ering, take up and store, ready for ■ — Pmcs, continue to treat as in March ;
planting in July; spring flowering, re- I shade during bright sun; those shifted

AQU

61

AQU

in that month or February shift again, i at an agle of fifteen degrees, or two cis-
e. ; suckers remove ; plant crowns. — ; terns might be formed, one in the back
Propagate by layers, suckers, cuttings, part of the house for tall plants, and the

and seed, according to the plants' ha-
bits.— Red Spidc7- is now apt to prevail ;
put sulphur upon the flues to drive
away. — Steam, admit frequently into
house. — Syringe every plant that will

other in front, for plants with floating
foliage, with a broad path between.
But the most elegant plan would be to
have a circular house, having glass
on all sides, to have a cistern in the

bear the treatment to prevent the Red centre for river plants, and a surround-

Spider. — Vines, treat as last month ; ing cistern for those which grow in

thin grapes, and tic up shoulders of the , stagnant water. To imitate the effect

bunches ; water abundantly ; remove of the motion of water in the central

superfluous shoots, e. ; temp. about753 ; cistern, the mould or pots in which the

in the late green-houses, train up the plants grow might be placed on a bol-

rafters. — W^ater requires to be given torn, apart from that of the cistern, and

oftener; sprinkle frequently about the this bottom being on the end of an up-

house, and keep the pans full.

GREEN-HOUSE.

Air, admit daily, as weather permit:
— Camellias, sow and graft. — Earth

right shaft, might, by the aid of proper
machinery in a vault below, be kept
in perpetual circular motion. Those
plants which grow naturally in rapid
streams, might be planted or placed on

pots stir frequently; and add fresh if the circumference of the bottom, and
not done in March.' — Greenfly or Aphis ' those requiring less agitation towards
usually indicates the house has been its centre. If reversed motion was re-
kept too cold. — Hardiest Plants keep quired to imitate tides, (where marine
in coldest parts of house, near the aquatics were cultivated,) nothing could
ventilators. — //ead-do?/'rt irregulargrow- | be easier than by the sort of wheel used
ing shrubs, — Heat, increase if neces- in the patent mangle to produce it to
sary. — Inarch shrubby exotics. — Leaves any extent, or by another still more
and ]Vood decayed, remove as they ap- simple plan known to every engineer,
pear; clean with sponge or syringe. — it might be changed seldomer, say only
Liquid Mannreapplyto sickly shrubs. — once or twice in twenty-four hours. If
Potted Plants, shift as they require I a rapid and tortuous motion was re-
room ; and water immediately. — Pro- quired, then let the bottom on which the
pagate by seeds, cuttings, inarching, plants are placed be furnished with
and other modes, as the species permit. , small circular wheels placed on its mar-
— Prune or Pinch off free growing > gin working on pivots, and furnished
shoots, to make shrubby growths. — on their edges with teeth like a spur
Succulent plants shift; plant cuttings wheel. Then let there be a correspond-
and suckers. — Water often, guided al
ways by the plant's habits

row of teeth flxcd to the inside of

the wall, or side of the cistern, into

AQU .\RIUM is the place devoted to Which they are to work, like awheel

the cultivation of aquatic or water and pinion.

plants. The majority of those cuiti
vated arc exotic, and reipiire the pro-
tection of glass. If there are only a few
of these they may be successfully
grown in cisterns placed in a stove ;
but if the collection be extensive, it re-
quires a separate edifice. The tank
system of lieating by hot water offers a
very superior mode of keeping the wa-
ter at a fittmg temperature. The leaden
cistern in which the plants are sub-
merged may rest readily upon the slates
forming the cover of the tank.

Mr. Loudon recommends an aqua-
rium to be thus constructed: "The
cistern to be close under the front

liy this means pots of plants set on
the small wheels will have a compound
motion, one round the centre of the
small wheels, and another round that of
the large bottom, something of the na-
ture of the planetary motion, but more
like that of the waltz dance. It is al-
most needless to add, that exotic aqua-
tic fowls and fishes might be kept in
such an aquarium, and either of the sea
or fresh water rivers, according as salt
water or fresh was used. It may be
thought by some that the machinery
would be intricate and troublesome ; but
the power requisite is so very small,

that it uiight easily be obtained by ma-
glass, and have that glass rather flat, say chineiy on the principle of the wind-up

AQU

62

ARB

jack, such as is used by Deacon in his i bined with the culture of Orchideous
ventilating Eolians. Plants sec the latter title.

"This kind of mechanism very sel- ! Hardy Aquatics xcqnue an aquarium
dom goes out of order or requires re- [ proportioned to the size of the rest of
pairs, and would require no other atten- the pleasure grounds ; and that its bot-
tion than being wound up twice in torn be rendered retentive of water by
twenty-four hours, and oiled occasion- puddling with clay. Its sides should be
ally. The same vault that contained it sloping, and cut into terraces, so as to
might serve for the furnace or boiler ; be suited to the various heights of the
for heating the house." — Gard.Enc. plants, and its margins should be form-

The following are aquatic stove
plants : —

Aponogeton angustifolium,

distachyon.

monostachyon.

Arum venosum.
Cyperus alternifolius.

papyrus.

Damasonium indicum.
Euryale ferox.
Menyanthes indica.

ovata.

Nelumbium speciosum.
Nympha;a cffirulea.

lotus.

pubescens.

pygmaia.

rubra.

stellata.

versicolor.

Philydrum lanuginosuni,
Pontederia cordata.

dilatata.

Sagittaria lancifolia.

obtusifolia.

Thalia dealbata.

Propagation and culture. — Being all
herbaceous plants, they are to be pro-
pagated as these generally are ; some
are raised from seeds, which, in gene-
ral, should be sown as soon as ripe, and
the pots plunged in shallow water ;

when the plants come up they may be , j,,.„. ..^^.j. .^, ...^.. „ „^.,.

transplanted into other pots, and shifted glass, and place in a cold frame or pit
as they advance in growth, till in a pot j Exclude frost and damp. In spring

ed of rough stones and fragments of
rock, among which marsh plants will
grow luxuriantly.

AQUEDUCT, a conveyance of any
kind for conducting water. The Ro-
mans made prodigious structures of this
kind ; some are still in use, others, in a
state of decay, are among the greatest
ornaments of Italy. In landscape gar-
dening, the aqueduct enables the ope-
rator to produce a fine effect, where the
absence of water would render the
scene tame and uninteresting.

AQUILARIA malaccensis. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

AQUILEGIA, Columbine. Seven-
teen species, and many varieties.
Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Common
soil.

ARABIS. Thirty-one species, anS
some varieties. Hardy herbaceous and
evergreen. Seeds or cuttings. Light
soil.

ARACHIS hypogaa. Stove annual.
Seed. Sandy loam.

ARALIA. Eighteen species. Chiefly
stove evergreens, but a few hardy or
green-house plants. Cuttings. Common
soil.

ARAUCARIA. Three species. Co-
niferous green-house trees. Rich light
soil. Cuttings planted in sand in Au-
gust take freely. Cover with a bell-

of sufficient size to admit their flower
ing, which will generally take place the
same season. Instead of being kept in
pots, the plants may be inserted in a
bed of earth on the bottom of the aqua-

give a little bottom heat. Plants thus
raised never form good leading shoots.
— Card. Chron.

ARBORETUM is a collection of trees
and shrubs capable of enduring expo-

num. Keep the water warm, say from ' sure to our climate. These are usually
70° to 75=' in summer, and leave them ' arranged in genera according to their
nearly dry in winter. Nelumbium spe- i precedence in the alphabet; or in
ciosum requires a water heat of 84^. 1 groups conformably to the Jussieuean

Cyperus, Papyrus, Nelumbium, Nym- [ system ; and whichever is adopted it is
phfoa, LimnochariSjIIydrocharis, Sagit- I quite compatiole with an attention to
taria, and Pentederia, will furnish va- ! facility of access by means of walks, as
riety enougli. j well as to picturesque eff'ect.

Stove for aquatics. — For one com- 1 It is an evil growing out of the fre-

ARB

63

ARM

quent change in the ownership of es-
tates, that most proprietors are indis-
posed to plant for posterity; conse-
quently we sec but few grounds laid
out with a view to permanent improve-
ment. Those who plant are anxious

ARCTOSTAPHYLOS. Four species.
Hardy trees, raised like the Arbutus.

ARCTOTHKCA. Two species.
Green-house herbaceous. Division.
Loam and peat.

ARCTOTIS. Thirty-one species.

themselves to reap the fruits of their Chiefly green-house evergreens. A.vir
exertions, not knowing, and conse-
quently careless, who shall succeed
them — where landed property is, by
entail, transmitted from generation to
generation, family pride, and the love
of distinction, ensure every improve-
ment being made in a permanent form
— thus have been created the magnifi-
cent parks of Europeans, and their
stately mansions. Our American sys-
tem deprives us of such monuments of
taste — but we can bear the deprivation,
seeing the greater good produced there-
by.

ARBOUR is a seat shaded by trees.
Sometimes these are trained over a
wooden or iron trellis-work, mingled
with the everlasting sweet pea, clema-
tis, and other climbing odorous plants.
When the trellis-work is complicated
and the structure more elaborate, with
a preponderance of the climbers al-
ready named, together with the honey-
suckle, &c., they are described as
French or Italian arbours.

ARBOR VIT^, Thuja.

ARBUTUS, Strawberry tree. Four-
teen species, and a few varieties. Ever-

ata is a hardy annual.
" ARCUxVTlON. The same as Layer-
ing.

ARDISIA. Twenty-five species.
Stove or green-house evergreen shrubs.
An ornamental genus of plants much
valued by collectors for the beauty of
their foliage and berries. They are of
easy culture. Cuttings of branches or
roots. Loam and peat.

ARDUINA hispinosa. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

ARECA. Ten species. Stove palms.
Seeds. Sandy loam.

AREMONIA agrimonoides. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Common soil.

ARETHUSA. Two species. Ten-
der orchids. Division. Moist peat and
loam.

ARETIA. Five species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Sandy loam
and peat.

ARGANIA syderoiylon Stove ever-
green tree. Layers or cuttings. Com-
mon soil.

ARGEMONE. Five species. Hardy
plants. Suckers. Common soil.

ARGYREIA. Eight species. Stove

green shrubs, chiefly hardy in Great ! evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Light

Britain, but require shelter in the Mid
die States. Layers, budding, inarch-
ing, and seed. Loam and peat.

ARCHANGEL, Lamium.

ARCHITECTURE. Rural architect-
ure has been greatly improved within the
last quarter of a century. Much greater

rich soil

ARISTEA. Five species. Green-
house herbaceous. Seed or division.
Loam and peat.

ARISTOLOCniA. Thirty-six species.
Hardy, green-house and stove. Seve-
ral species are Americans. A. labiosa.

attention is now paid to the structure of from Brazil, is a very curious plant,

garden and farm buildings, and the do- A. serpentaria (the root of) is said to

mestic comfort of those employed in be the substance which the Egyptian

rural labour. There is of consequence Snake-jugglers chew for the purpose of

an elevation of taste, and conduct, and stiipifying the snakes, by the introduc-

beneficial results to all concerned. In tion of their salrva into the reptiles'

England, Loudon has laboured to this mouths. Cuttings. Rich sandy loam

end with great success, and his Ency- and peat.

clopadia of Villa and Cottage Architec- j ARISTOTELIA macqui. Hardy

<ure, is a monument to his industry and evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Common

indomitable energy. Downing, in this soil.

country, has followed the path so ARMENIACA. Four species. Hardy

plainly marked by Loudon, and pro- fruit trees. Budding on plum-stocks,

duced a volume, which cannot but re- Rich loam. See Apricot.

fine the taste, and correct much that ARMERIA. Nineteen species,

ofl'ends the eye. 1 Hardy herbaceous, except A. fascicu-

ARN

64

ART

Zrtfa, which is a green-house everfrreen. I evening until they are established, as

Division. Rich light soil. See Thrift

ARNOPOGON. Four species. Hardy
annuals. Seed. Common soil.

ARTABOTRYS odoratissima. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

ARTANEMA fimbriatum. Hardy
evergreen shrub. Seed. Loam and peat.

ARTEMISIA, Wormwood. Forty-
seven species. Seed. Division and
cuttings. Mostly hardy and herbaceous.

ARTHROPOblUM. Five species,
(ireen-house herbaceous. Division or
seed. Sandy loam and peat.

ARTHROSTEMMA. Two species,
(xreen-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

ARTICHOKE, {Cynara scolymus.)

well as during the droughts of summer.
The only other attention they require
during the summer, is the frequent use
of the hoe. They produce heads the
same year, i'rom July to October, and
will continue to do so annually, from
May until June or July. As often as a
head is cut, the stem must be broken
down close to the root, to encourage
the production of suckers before the
arrival of winter. In November or
December, they should receive their
winter's dressing. The old leaves being
cut away without injuring the centre or
side shoots, the ground must be dug
over, and part of the soil thrown into a
moderate ridge over each row, it being
put close about the plants, but the

Soil and situation. — The finest heads hearts left clear. Each plant must be

are produced in a soil abounding in
moisture, but in such they will not sur-
vive the winter. To enable them to
survive the winter, those for the supply
of suckers, as well as those for the last-

closed round with long litter, or pea
haulm : it is, however, a very erroneous
practice to apply stable dung imme-
diately over the plants previous to
earthing them up, as it in general in-

ing production, must have a rich loam [ duces decay. As soon as February
allotted to them. Manure must be commences, all covering of this descrip-
applied every spring; and the bestltion must be removed. In March, or
compost for them is a mixture of three I as soon as the shoots appear four or
parts well putrefied dung, and one part five inches above the surface, the
of fine coal-ashes. They should always j ridges thrown up in the winter must
have an open exposure, and above all be be levelled, and all the earth removed
free from the influence of trees ; for if I from about the stock to below the part
beneath their shade or drip, the plants! from whence the young shoots spring.

spindle, and produce wortliless heads.

Time and mode of planting. — It is
propagated by suckers, which are an-
nually afforded by the parent plants in
the spring. These must be slipped oflT
in March or early in April, when eight
or ten inches in height, with as much
of their fibrous roots pertaining as pos-
sible. Such of them should be selected
as are sound and not woody. The
brown hard part by which they are
attached to the parent stem must bo
removed, and if that cuts crisp and
tender, it is tough and stringy, and is

worthless. Further, to prepare them 1 another site.

Of these remove all but two or at
most three of the straightest and most
vigorous, care being taken to select
from those which proceed from the
under part of the stock: the strong
thick ones proceeding from its crown
having hard woody stems, and are pro-
ductive of indifferent heads.

Although the artichoke in a suitable
soil is a perennial, yet after the fourth
or fifth year the heads become smaller
and drier. The beds, in consequence,
are usually broken up after the lapse of
this period, and fresh ones formed on

for planting, the large outside leaves
are taken off so low as that the heart
appears above them. If they have been
some time separated from the stock, or
if the weather is dry, they are greatly
invigorated by being set in water for
three or four hours, before they are
planted. They should be set in rows
four feet and a half by three feet apart,
and about half their length beneath the
surface. Water them abundantly every

The arlichoke^s heads are made to
attain a much larger size than they
would otherwise by twisting a ligature
very tightly round the stem, about three
inches below each, and thus preventing
the reflux of the sap.

No vegetable is more benefitted than
the artichoke by the application of sea-
weed or any other manure containing
common salt.

To obtain chards. — After the best

ART

65

A S I

heads have been cut, early in July the
leaves are to be cut over within half a
foot of the ground ; and the stems as
low as possible. In September or Oc-
tober, when the new shoots or leaves
are about two feet high, they are bound

close with a wreath of hay or straw, Sulphate and muriate of soda
and earth or litter is drawn round the Carbonate of lime
stems of the plants. The blanching is Oxide of iron
perfected in a month or six weeks. If Loss
thechardsare wished late in the winter, They are an excellent application to
the whole plants may be dug up before lawns, turnips, cabbages, potatoes, and

square yards, twenty-eight pounds is
an average application, and they cannot
be put on too fresh.

Peat ashes contain —
Silica
Sulphate of lime

frost sets in, and laid in sand in their
blanched state. In this way they may
be kept for several weeks.

Gobbo. — " The stem of an artichoke
is bent down to a right angle, and the
petioles are collected and covered over
so as to blanch. The result is a lump,
which is eaten raw with salt, and is
tolerably good. In Italy it is used in

peas.

Coal ashes contain carbon, silica,
alumina, sulphate of lime, iron and
potash, carbonate of lime, and oxide of
iron. They are a good manure for
grass, peas and potatoes. Sprinkled
half an inch deep on the surface over
beans and peas, they hasten the germi-
nation of the seed, and preserve it from

the autumn and winter, and replaces j mice. They are also used for forminu

radishes." — Gard. Chroji

ARTOCARPUS. Bread Fruit Tree.
Two species. Stove evergreens. Cut-
tings. Light rich loam.

ARUM. Thirty-seven species.
Hardy, green-house, and stove. Off-
sets. Common soil.

AS ARUM. Five species. Hardy,
herbaceous. Division. Common soil.

ASCARICIDA
annuals. Seed. Rich light soil.

ASCLEPIAS. Thirty-six species.

dry walks in the kitchen department.

Soap-boilers' ashes contain —
Silica ....

Lime ....

Magnesia ....
Alumina ....
Oxide of Iron

Mangaiese

Potash (combined with Silica) .

Two species. Stove [ Soda (Do.)

Sulphuric Acid (combined with
Lime) . . . . .
Chiefly hardy, and all herbaceous but Phosphoric Acid (Do.)
A. Greeniana and Mexicana, which are Common salt . . . .
stove evergreens. Seed or division
Peat.

ASHES are the remains of a sub'

35.0

35.0

2.3

1.0

1.7
1.8
0.5
0.2

0.2
3.5
0.1

Carbonic Acid (combined with

Lime and Magnesia) . . 18.2
They are good for all crops but espe-

stance which has undergone combus- i cially grass and potatoes

tion, and are as various in their compo- |
nents as are the bodies capable of being
burnt. Whatever be the substance

IVood ashes and the ashes of garden
weeds generally contain silica, alumina,
oxides of iron and manjianese, lime,

burnt, the process should be made to ' magnesia, potash, partly in the state of
proceed as slowly as possible, for by I a silicate, soda, sulphatesof potash and
such regulation more carbon or char-; lime, phosphate of lime, chloride of
choal is preserved in the ashes, which | sodium, and carbonates of lime, potash,
is the most valuable of their constitu- land magnesia, with a considerable por-
ents. The simplest mode of etfecting tion of charcoal. They are a good appli-
a slow combustion is to bank it over i cation to cabbages, potatoes, and peas.

with earth, leaving only a small orifice
to admit the air sufficiently to keep up
a smouldering fire.

Ashes have been usually recom-
mended as a manure most useful to
heavy soils, but this is a decided mis-
take. As fertilizers they are beneficial
upon all soils, and they can never be
applied in sufficient quantity to alter the

staple of a too tenacious soil. To thirty j asiaticum.)

Turf ashes contain silica, alumina,
oxiiles of iron and manganese, lime,
magnesia, sulphates of potash and lime,
phosphates of lime and magnesia, com-
mon salt, and charcoal. They have
been used beneficially to grass, onions,
carrots, beans, potatoes, and beet root.

ASH-TREP^. {Fraxines excelsior.

ASIATIC-POISON bULB. {Vrinum

ASI

66

ASP

ASIMINA. Four species. Hardy
deciduous shrubs. Layers. Peat and
loam.

ASPALANTHUS. Thirty-one spe-
cies. Greenhouse evergreen shrubs.
Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

ASPARAGUS. Twenty-eight spe-
cies, of which the most important is

plants have arisen from the same hole,
the weakest must be removed as soon

as that point can be well determined.
Towards the end of October, as soon
as the stems are completely withered,
thev must be cut down, and well pu-
trefied, dung spread over the bed to the
depth of about two inches; this serves

the kitchen vegetable, asj>ara^us offici-\ not only to increase the vigour of the
nalis. Of this there are only two va- i plants in the following year, but to pre-
rieties, the purple topped and the green- I serve them during the winter from in-
topped ; the first is principally culti- i jury by the frost. About March in the
vated. There are a few sub-varieties I next year, every other plant must be
which derive their names from the ; taken up and transplanted into a bed,
places of their growth, and are only to ; twelve inches apart, if it is intended
be distinguished for superior size or ! that they should attain another, or two
flavour, which they usually lose on re- , years' further growth, before bein

moval from their native place.

finally planted out, or they may be

Soil. — The soil best suited to this i planted immediately into the beds for
vegetable is a fresh sandy loam, made ] production. It may be here remarked
rich by the abundant addition of manure. , that the plants may remain one or two

Situation. — The site of the beds years in the seed bed ; they will even
should be such as to enjoy the influ- ' succeed after remaining three, but if
ence of the sun during the whole of the th6y continue four they generally fail,
day, as free as possible from the influ- It is, however, certain that they are
ence of trees and shrubs, and if choice ' best removed when one year old.

is allowed, ranging east and west. The
subsoil should be dry, or the bed kept
so by being founded on rubbish or other
material to serve as a drain. The space
of ground required to be planted with
this vegetable for the supply of a small
family is at least eight rods. If less it
will be incapable of affording one hun-
dred heads at a time. Sixteen rods
will in general afford two or three hun-
dred every day, in the height of the
Beason.

Time of sowing. — To raise plants,
the seed may be sown from the middle
of February to the beginning of April ;
the most usual time is about the middle
of March. The best mode is to insert
them by the dibble five or six inches

Some gardeners judiciously sow the
seed in the beds where they are to re-
main for production.

Time of final planting. — The best
time for the final removal is the end of
March, if the soil is dry, and the season
warm and forward ; otherwise it is bet-
ter to wait until the commencement of
April. A very determinate signal of
the appropriate time for planting, is
when the plants are beginning to grow.
If moved earlier, and they have to lie
torpid for two or three months, many
of them die, or in general shoot up very
weak.

Construction of the beds. — In forming
the beds for regular production, have
them three feet wide. The site of the

apart, and an inch below the surface, ! bed being marked out, the usual prac-

two seeds to be put in each hole, or
they may be sown in drills made the
same distance asunder.

tice is to trench the ground two spades
deep, and then to cover it with weil-
rotted manure, from six to ten inches

Culture in seed bed. — If dry weather, I deep ; the large stones being sorted out.

the bed should be refreshed with mode
rate but frequent waterings, and if
sown as late as April, shade is required

and care taken that the dung lies at
least six inches below the surface.
Mode of planting. — The plants being

by means of a little haulm during the I taken from the seed-bed carefully with
meridian of hot days, until the seeds ' a narrow-pronged dung-fork, with as
germinate. Care must be taken to keep ! little injury to the roots as possible, they
them free from weeds, though this ope- i must be laid separately and evenly to-

ration should never commence until the I gether, for the sake of convenience
plants are well above ground, which I whilst planting, the roots being apt to
will be in the course of three or four j entangle and cause much trouble and
weeks from the time of sowing. Iftwolfnjury in parting them. They should

ASP

67

♦

ASP

be exposed as short a time as possible
to the air, and to this end it is advisable
to keep them until planted in a basket
covered with a little sand. The mode
of planting is to form drills or narrow
trenches tive or six inches deep and a
foot apart, cut out with the spade, the
line side of each drill being made per-
pendicular, and against this the [)ianls
are to be placed, with their crowns one
and a half or two inches below the sur-
face, and twelve inches asunder. The
roots must be spread out wide in the
form of a fan, a little earth being drawn
over each to retain it in its position
whilst the row is proceeded with. For
the sake of convenience, one drill
should be made at a time, and the
plants inserted and covered completely
before another is commerced. When
the planting is completed, the bed is to
be lightly raked over, and its outline dis-
tinctly marked out. Care must be had
never to tread on the beds — they are
formed narrow to render it unnecessary
— for everything tending to consoli-
date them is injurious, as, from the
length of time they have to continue,
without a possibility of stirring them to
any considerable depth, they have a
natural tendency to have a closer tex-
ture than is beneficial to vegetation.
Water must be given in dry weather
daily until the plants are established.
The paths between the beds are to be
two and a half feet wide.

Mr. Beaton says, that "By far the
best way of growing asparagus is in
single rows three ftct apart, and nine
inches plant from plant; but if the
ground is not deeper than two feet or
thirty inches, or if room is scarce, the
rows need not be more than thirty
inches asunder.

I have grown asparagus this way

gathering the crop. The hollow be-
tween the little ridges is then filled up
with a powerful compost, consisting of
equal portions of sandy soil, leaf tnould,
and pigeon's dung; the whole is then
drenched with liquid manure from the
stables, cowhouses, or laundry, and the
foreman of the kitchen garden gels
carte blanche to water the asparagus
any day through the growing season,
when he can best spare his men, or at
all events every fortnight, and always
with liquid manure if possible. As to
the (juantity of water, the only instruc-
tion he gets is that he cannot drown
them. This is cultivating the asparagus
in summer." — Gurd. Chron.

Subseque?it cultivation. — Throughout
the year care must be taken to keep
the beds clear of weeds, and in the
spring and summer apply liquid manure
twice a week plentifully. In the latter
end of October or commencement of
November, the beds are to have the
winter dressing. The stalks must be
cut down and cleared away, and the
weeds hoed olf into the paths, care
being taken not to commence whilst
the stems are at all green, for if they
are cut down whilst in a vegetating
state the roots are very prone to shoot
again, and consequently are propor-
tionably weakened.

On the richness of the ground and
warmth of the season the sweetness of
asparagus depends. The dung needs
merely to be laid regularly over the
bed, and the weeds, as well as some
manure, to be slightly pointed into the
paths, some of the mould from which
must be spread to the depth of two
inches over the dung just laid upon the
beds. In the end of March, or early
in April, before the plants begin to
sprout, the rows are to be stirred be-

for the last fitteen years, and give them tweeu to a moderate depth with the
no dung in winter, merely clearing off | asparagus fork, running it slantingly
the stalks and weeds in October, and two or three inches beneath the sur-

pointing over the surface about two
inches deep with a fork, and leaving it
as rough as possible.

Early in March, when the surface

face, as the object is merely to stir the
surface and slightly mix it with the
dung.

Great care must be taken not in the

is quite dry, it is raked down, and least to disturb the plants. Some gar-
about two inches of soil drawn over the deners recommend the beds should only-
crowns from each side of the rows, I be hoed again, so fearful are they of the
which gives the ground something of injury which may be done to the stools ;
the appearance of a plot of peas earthed but if it be done carefully, as above di-
iip for the first time. When the gather- rected, the fork is the best implement
jng is nearly over, the ground is stirred . to be employed. This course of culti-
again, to loosen the trumping made in | vation is to be continued annually, but

ASP

68

ASP

with this judicious modification, that to cut. Doubtless all its energies are
earth be never, taken from the paths developed by the digging in of the ma-
after the first year, but these merely be | nure in the autumn of the second year,

covered with dung, and which is only
to be slightly dug in; for every gar- i
dener must have observed that the roots
of the outer row extend into the alleys, '
and are consequently destroyed if they
are dug over. And, rather than that

and when it does begin to sprout, it
finds its roots in contact with a soil of
inexhaustible fertility.

" Previously, hovvever, to the cutting,
each bed is covered in the course of
March very lightly with dead leaves,

should take place, the beds should have to the depth of about eight inches ; and

no winter covering unless earth can be
obtained from some other source, as
asparagus does not generally suffer
from frost, as is commonly supposed.

Manuring. — No garden plant is more
benefitted than is asparagus by the ap-
plication of common salt, if it be given
at such times as the plants are growing.
Two pounds to every thirty square

the cutting does not commence till the
plants peep through this covering, when
it is carefully removed from the stems,
in order that the finest only may be cut,
which are rendered white by their leafy
covering, and succulent by the exces-
sive richness of the soil.

" In the autumn of the third year,
after the first cutting, the leaves are re-

yards of surface should be sown broad- ; moved, and the beds are again dressed
cast over the beds early in April. After ! with fresh night soil, as before; and
that, water the plants once a week with i these operations are repeated year after
liquid manure, formed of half an ounce I year. In addition to this, the beds are
of guano and four ounces of salt to half under salt water annually at spring
every gallon of water. The supply of: tides."
food cannot be too rich or too abundant. ""'

Spanish culture, — Near Sebastian, in
Spain, the finest asparagus in Europe
is produced by the following mode : —

" In March the seed is sown in two
drills, about two inches deep, and
eighteen inches trom the alleys, thus
leaving a space of two feet between
the drills. The rows run invariably
east and west, doubtless in order that
the plants may shade the ground during
the heats of summer.

" When the seedlings are about si.x
inches high, they are thinned to some-
thing more than a foot apart. Water
is conducted once a day among the
alleys, and over the beds, so as to give
these seedlings an abundant and con-
stant supply of fluid during the season

Time of production. — In May the
beds are in full production of young
shoots, which, when from two to five
inches high, are fit for cutting, and as
long as the head continues compact and
firm. Care must be taken in cutting
not to injure those buds which are
generally rising from the same root
in various grades of successional growth
within the ground. The knife ought
to be narrow pointed, the blade about
nine inches in length, and saw edged.
The earth being carefully opened round
the shoot, to observe whether any others
are arising, the blade is to be gently
slipped along the stalk until it reaches
its extremity, where the cut is to be made
in a slanting direction. It almost always
occurs that the same stool produces a

nf their growth. This is the cultiva- greater number of small beads than

tion during the first year.

large ones, but the latter only should be

" The second year, in the month ofl cut : for, the oflener the former are re-
March, the beds are covered with three ' moved, the more numerously will they

four inches of fresh night soil from
the reservoirs of the town. It remains
on them during the summer, and is
lightly dug in during the succeeding'
autumn ; the operation of irrigation
being continued as during the first sea-

be produced, and the stools will sooner
become exhausted.

" No one should cut too. many sprouts
from his asparagus beds. On the con-
trary, the gardener should take care to
leave at least two or three strong sprouts,

son. This excessive stimulus, and the ' to grow from every root; or what is

abundant room the plants have to grow
ill, must necessarily make them ex-
tremely vigorous, and prepare them
lor the production of gigantic sprouts.
" In the third spring asparagus is fit

better, his beds should be rested one
year, and cut another; for he may be
certain from the strength of the sum-
mer shoots, what sort of sprouts he
will have to cut the succeeding year —

ASP

69

ASP

remembering always ttiat it is useless I plants arc past production, and unfit

to manure asparagus beds for sprouts
independently of summer shoots. If a
bed of asparagus is weak, manure in
the autumn will do but little for making
it bring strong sprouts the next season.
All that the manure can then do is to
teed abundantly the summer shoots
of the succeeding summer, and so ena-
ble them to prepare plenty of materials
out of which a second season's strong
sprouts may be pushed forth. What is
true of asparagus is equally true of
sea kale and rhubarb." — Card. Chron.
To obtain seed. — Some shoots should
be marked and left in early spring, for
those which are allowed to run up after
the season of cutting is over, are seldom
forward enough to ripen their seeds
perfectly. In choosing the shoots for
this purpose, those only must be marked
which are the finest, roundest, and
have the closest heads ; those having
quick opening heads, or are small or
flat, are never to be left. More are to
be selected than would be necessary if
each stem would assuredly be fruitful ;
but as some of them only bear male or
unproductive blossoms, that contin-
gency must be allowed for. Each
chosen shoot must be fastened to a stake,
which by keeping it in its natural posi-

to remain in the garden, little can be
expected from them when forced.

Time of planting. — The first planta-
tion should be made about the latter
end of September; the bed, if it works
favourably, will begin to produce in the
course of four or five weeks, and will
continue to do so for about three ; each
light producing in that time 300 or 400
shoots, and affording a gathering every
two or three days.

Produce. — To have a regular suc-
cession, a fresh bed must be formed
every three or four weeks, the last crop
to be planted in March or the early
part of April ; this will continue in
production until the arrival of the natu-
ral ground crops. The last made beds
will be in production a fortnight sooner
than those made about Christmas.

Bed. — The hot-bed must be substan-
tial, and proportioned to the size and
number of the lights, and to the time cf
year. The common mode of making
a hot-bed is usually followed. The
bed must be topped with six inches of
light rich earth.

Quantity necessary. — If a small family
is to be supplied, three or four lights
will be sufficient at a time ; for a larger
six or eight will not be too many.

tion, enables the seed to ripen more Several hundred plants may be inserted

perfectly

The seed is usually ripe in September,
when it must be collected and left in a
tub for four or six weeks, for the pulp
and husk of the berry to decay, when
it may be well cleansed in water. The
seeds sink to the bottom, and the re-
fuse floats, and will pass away with
the water as it is gently poured off. By
two or three washings the seeds will
be completely cleansed ; and when
perfectly dried by exposure to the sun
and air, may be stored for use.

Forcing. — Plants to be employed. —
Such plants must be inserted in hot-beds
as are five or six years old, and appear
of sufficient strength to produce vigo-
rous shoots: when, however, any old
natural ground plantations are intended
to be broken up, at the proper season
some of the best plants may be selected
to be plunged in a hot-bed or any spare
corner of the stove bark beds. When
more than ten years old, they are
scarcely worth employing. To plant
old stools for the main forcing crop, is,
however, decidedly erroneous; for, if

under each, as they may be crowded
as close as [lossible together; from
500 to 900 are capable of being inserted
under a three light frame, according to
their size.

Mode of planting. — in planting, a
furrow being drawn the whole length of
the frame, against one side of it the
first row or course is to be placed, the
crown upright, and a little earth drawn
on to the lower ends of the roots, then
more plants again in the same manner,
and so continued throughout, it being
carefully observed to keep them all
regularly about an inch below the sur-
face ; all round on the edge of the bed
some moist earth must be banked close
to the outside roots.

Precautions necessary. — If the bed is
extensive, it will probably acquire a
violent heat; the frames must there-
fore be continued off until it has be-
come regular, otherwise the roots are
liable to be destroyed by being, as it i8
technically termed, scorched or steam-
scalded.

Treatment.— When the heat has be-

ASP

70

ATH

Two species,
twiners. Di-

ASTEPHANUS.
Green-house evergreen
vision. Peat and loam.

ASTER. One hundred and fifty-two
species. Chiefly hardy, but a few
green-house plants. Suckers or divi-
sion. Common soil. The time for

come regular, the frames may be set
on ; and more earth be applied by de-
grees over the crowns of the plants
until it acquires a total depth of five or
SIX inches.

The glasses must be kept open an
inch or two, as long and as often as
possible, without too great a redtiction ' thus propagating them is in autumn, or
o*" temperature occurring, so as to ad- ! early spring ; but many of the species
mit air freely and give vent to the va- are increased by cuttings of the flower
pours ; for on this depends the superi- stalks, planted in a shady border during
ority in flavour and appearance of the ' May or June. The varieties are numer-
ous.

ASTEROCEPHALUS. Fifty-three
species. Mostly hardy annuals and
perennials. Seed or cuttings. Com-
mon soil.

ASTILBE decandra. Hardy herb-
aceous. Division. Peat.

ASTRAGALUS. One hundred and
eleven species. Nearly all hardy pe-
rennials and annuals; the first propa-
gated by division, the second by seed.
Common soil.

ASTRANTI\. Six species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Common light
soil.

ASTRAP^A. Three species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Rich light
soil.

ASTROCARYUM.
Palms. Stove. Seed.

ASTROLOBIUM.

Hardy annuals. Seed.

ASTROLOMA.

shoots. The heat must be kept up by a
lining of hot dung, and by covering the
glasses every night with mats, &c.

The temperature at night should
never be below 50^, and in the day its
maximum at 62^.

Gathering. — In gathering, for which
the shoots are fit when from two to five
inches in height, the finger and thumb
must be thrust down into the earth and
the-stem broken off at the bottom.

Insects. — The foliage of this vege-
table is liable to be destroyed by the
Idrvac of two beetles, the Lemaasparagi,
or Asparagus Beetle, and the Lema duo-
d^cim punctata. The only remedy is
to pick off and destroy the affected
branches.

ASPASIA. Two species. Stove epi-
phytes. Bulbs. Peat and potsherds.

ASPEN, (Populus tremula.)

ASPERULA, Woodroof. Twenty-
four species. Hardy herbaceous, ex-
cept A. hrevifolia, which is a half-hardy
evergreen. Division. Moist shaded soil.

ASPHODELUS. Asphodel. Twelve
species. Hardy bulbs, except A. clava-
tus and intermedia. Offsets. Common
soil.

ASPIDISTRA. Two species. Stove
herbaceous. Suckers. Common soil.
Flowers produced under ground.

ASPIDIUM. Forty-nine species.
Ferns. Hardy, green-house or stove.
Seed or division. Loam and peat.

ASPIDIOTUS. See Coccus.

ASPLENIUM. Forty-nine species.
Ferns. Hardy, green-house or stove.
Seed or division. Loam and peat.

ASSONIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy
loam.

ASTARTEA fascicularis.
house evergreen shrub.
Sandy loam and peat.

ASTELMA. Ten species

Five species.
Rich loam.
Four species.
Common soil.
Two species.

Green-
Cuttings.

Green-

house evergreen shrubs,
tings. Sandy peat.

Seed or cut-

Greenhouse evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

ASTYRIA rosea. Stove shrub. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam.

ATALANTIA monophylla. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich
loam.

ATAMASCO-LILY {Zephyranthes
Atamasco).

ATHALIA spinarum. Turnip Saw-
fly, known popularly as the Black-cater-
pillar, Black-canker, Black-palmer, Ne-
gro, &c.

Mr. Curtis observes, that "As early
as May, or sooner, the Saw-flies make
their appearance ; the female lays her
eggs on the under surface along the
margin of the leaf. These hatch in
about five days, and produce the Ne-
groes, which are not thicker than a fine
thread, and white, but after changing
their skins, they become black, and
eventually are three-quarters of an
inch long, when they are more of a
lead colour and yellowish-white be-

ATH

71

AUG

neath their skins, being very much • Aromatic Herbs may still be planted;
wrinkled ; they erect their tails whilst gather for drying and distilling. — Arti-
feeding, and are stretched out at full chokes, break down, &c. — Aspara^us-
lengtli in reposn, or lie sleeping coiled beds, weed. — Balm, plant ; gather for
up on the leaf; they are feeding about drying. — Borage,sow. — floreco/e, plant,
three weeks, after which they descend , — Brocoli, plant, b. — Cabbages, plant
to the ground, and enter the earth, 1 out. — Cardoons, earth up. — Cauli-
where they form a cocoon, silvery in- /lowers, late, plant. — CcZ^r/ac, earth up.
side, in which the larva eventually be- i — Celery, plant. — Chervil, sow. — Cole-
comes a pupa. In summer they remain worts, sow for, b. ; plant. — Corn Salad,
only three weeks in this quiescent state, ! sow. — Cress, sow. — Cucumbers, plant

but the autumnal ones lie buried through
the winter." — Gard. Chron. Hand-
picking is the only mode of removing
the caterpillars.

ATHAN'ASIA. Seventeen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam.

ATH EROSPERM A MOScAa/a. Green-
house evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

ATHRIXIA capensis. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light
loam.

ATRAGENE. Five species. Hardy
deciduous climbers. Cuttings. Com-
mon soil.

ATRIPLEX. Three species. See
Orach .

ATTALEA.
Stove. Seed.

Palms.

Seven species,
Rich loam.

AUBRIETIA. Three species. Hardy
evergreen trailers. Division and cut-
tings. Light soil.

AUCUBA japonica. Evergreen
shrub, hardy in the middle states on
light dry soil. The leaves, if exposed
to the sun during winter, are liable to
injury. Cuttings. Common soil.

AUDISERTIA incana. Hardy ever-
green shrub. Seed. Common soil.

AUDOUINIA capitata. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy
peat.

AUGUST. This is a glorious month
in the middle states ; towards its close
the extreme heat of summer has sub-
sided, the mornings and evenings are
cool and pleasant; the luscious peach,
and pears, and plums are in full sea-
son, and one really feels as if he could
compromise for August the year round.

The various departments now re-
quire the following work to be at-
tended to : — the directions for the
kitchen garden are specially intended
for the middle portion of the Union.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Alexanders^ sow. — Angelica, sow. —

or sow, b. — Dill is fit for gathering. —
Earthing-up, attend to. — Endive, plant ;
blanch, &c., the advancing crops. —
Fennel, sow and plant. — Finochio,
earth up. — Garlic, take up. — Hoeing,
attend to. — Kidney Beans, sow, b. —
Leeks, plant, b. — Lettuces, sow, plant
out. — Melons, attend to. — Mint, gather
for drying. — Mushroom-beds, make ; at-
tend to. — Nasturtium Berries, gather. —
Onions, gather. — Parsley, sow, b. —
Peas, sow, b. — Radishes, sow ; gather
pods for pickling. — Rape (edible rooted),
sow. — Rochambole, take up. — Seeds,
gather as ripe. — Shallots, take up. —
Small Salading, sow. — Spinach, sow. —
Stir between plants in rows, &c. —
Turnips, sow at intervals, through-
out the month, &c. — Turnip- Cabbage,
plant. — Weeding and Watering, at-
tend to. — Wormwood, plant, b. — To-
matos, plant for late crop.

ORCHARD.

Budding, done in July ; loosen the
bandages, if on more than three weeks ;
remove shoots from stocks ; budding
may be done in most fruit, b. — Fig
Trees, train in closely to let the fruit
have the full benefit of the sun ; but do
not prune. Nectarines, look over ; re-
move useless shoots; train in close;
water plentifully or the fruit will drop.
Nets, spread over fruit to protect it
from birds. — Peaches. — Vines, look over
again and clear from useless shoots, &c.
Wasps, destroy by luring them into
bottles.

FLOWER GARDEN.

Anemones, SOW. — ^nnua/s, stick ; wa-
ter ; clear from decayed leaves, &c.
Auriculas, shift into fresh earth ; water;
keep in the shade; seedlings prick out;
sow. — Biennial seedlings, transplant.
Bu/6ows-rooted flower-seeds, to obtain
varieties, sow. — Bulbotis roots, remove
or transplant ; remove and plant offsets;
(Autumn flowering), plant. — CarTiation,

AUG

72

AUR

layers cut from old root and plant;
water frequently ; layering may still be
done, b. ; card the flowers and shade
from sun. — Dahlias, stake; thin the
flowers. — Daisies, propagate. — Douhle-
blossomed perennials with fibrous roots,
propagate by division, e. — Drws borders
as required. — Edgings of box, &c., clip
in wet weather. — Evergreens may be
moved, e., if wet weather; plant cut-
tings.— Grass, mow and roll weekly. —
Grass seeds may be sown, e. — Gravel,
weed and roll weekly. — Hedges, clip in
moist weather. — Mignonette, sow. — Pe-
largoniums, propagate by cuttings, b. —
Perennials, in pots and elsewhere,
will require water almost daily; break
down flower stalks as they finish bloom-
ing; seedlings, transplant. — Pipings of
Pinks may be planted out. — Polyan-
thuses, sow. — Potted Annuals will re-
quire water daily in dry weather. — Ra-
nunculuses, sow ; plant in pots to bloom
in November. — Seeds, gather as they
ripen. — Sotvings, to obtain varieties,
had better be done in boxes. — Ten-week
Stock, sow, b. — Tulips, and other bulb-
ous-rooted flower-seed, sow. — Turf,
may be laid, e. — Watering will be re-
quired generally in dry weather. —
Weeding, generally attend to.

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit freely every day. — Bark-
6effs, stir and add fresh. — Bulbous-rooted
Plants, force plants in pots; they will be
much stronger than if done in the next
month. — Check plants growing too free-
ly, by removing them to cooler situa-
tions.— Cuttings of succulents, and
some others, may be planted, b. —
Dress the plants, by removing all de-
cayed parts, weeds, &c., and stirring the
soil as appears necessary. — Grafting of
Ipomsas, and some other sorts, may be
practised. — Pines, finish shifting, b. ;
water frequently ; and shade until well
established, then give liquid manure
weekly; plant crowns and suckers as
required ; day temp. 85^ ; night 60^. —
Shifting, wherever necessary, complete
b.; especially the orchideous plants. —
Sucfcers, offsets, &c., may yet be planted.
— Vines; remove damaged grapes from
bunches as they appear; give liquid
manure to those beginning to ripen. —
Water, give freely every second day.

GREEN-HOUSE. j

Aloes, propagate by slips, suckers, )

&c., b. — Budding, finish, b. — Dress
every plant as occasion offers. — Earth,
give to Oranges, &c. ; stir the surface
frequently. — Oranges, Lemons , inc., h\H\ ,
b. — Peal-mould plants, especially heaths,
keep assiduously supplied with water. —
Potted Plants, continue outside tlie
house until the end of the month. —
Seedlings, transplant singly. — Shifting
into larger pots, finish. — Succulent
Plants, as Aloes, &c., propagate by
slips, &c., b. — Water freely and daily
in dry weather.

AULAX. Two species. Green-house
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sand and
a little loam.

AURICULA. (Primula Auricula.)
This is a popular Florist's flower, and
animated contests take place for the
premiums annually offered by the Eng-
lish provincial Horticultural Societies.

Varieties. — Mr. Slater, Florist, of
Cheethain Hill, Manchester, says, " For
an amateur's first collection, procure of
Green-edged: Rider's Waterloo; Pol-
litt's Standard of England and Highland
Laddie; Ollier's Lady Anne Wilbraham;
Oliver's Lovely Anne; shown also in
grey-edged c]nss. Grey-edged: Grimes
Privateer; Kenyon's Ringleader ; War-
ris Union; Sykes Complete; Thomp-
son's Revenge. White-edged : Taylor's
Glory ; Leigh's Bright Venus; Taylor's
Favourite ; Kenyon's Lord Chancellor ;
Leigh's Pillar of Beauty. Selfs: Grimes,
Hovas, Flag; Berry's Lord Primate;
Whittaker's True Blue. Alpines : Em-
merson's Favourite ; Fieldhouse's Fair
Rosamond.

2d. " As an addition to his collec-
tion, obtain of Green-edged: Booth's
Freedom; Leigh's Colonel Taylor;
Yates's Morris; Green Hero; Page's
Champion ; Ashton's Prince of Wales ;
Clough's Dolittle ; Barlow's King ; Lit-
ton's Imperator ; Howard's Nelson ;
Pearson's Badajos ; Pollit's Ruler of
England; Buckley's Jolly Tar; Faulk-
ner's Ne Plus Ultra. Grey- edged :
Fletcher's, Mary Anne, and Ne Plus
Ultra ; Waterhouse's Conqueror of Eu-
rope ; Thompson's Bang-up; Taylor's
Ploughhoy; Pearson's Liberty; Howard's
Sweepstake; shown also in green-edged
class. White-edged: Ash worth's Rule
All and Regular ; Taylor's Incompara-
ble ; Wood's Delight; Popplewell's
Conqueror ; Potts' Regulator ; Ashton's
Bonny Lass; Cheetham's Countess oi
Wilton. A/pines: King of the Alps;

AUR

73

AVE

Queen Victoria; Conspicuous; Rising
Sun ; Fair Helen; Kettleby's True Blue.
Selfs: Redmayn's Metropolitan; Ne-
therwood's Otliello ; Berry's Lord Lee ;
Clegg's Blue Bonnet; Kay's Jupiter;

should form a perfect circle of a dense
pure white, clean on its edges, even,
and free from blemishes.

" The band of colour surrounding the
eye should be dark, rich, or bright,

Kenyon's Freedom; Gorton's Stadt- 'joining the margin with a feathery edge,
holder, iyrJlow.) Huflon's Squire IMun- ! equally distributed all round, but never
day. Lastly, these are worthy of a encroaching so much upon the edge as
place in any collection. Green-edged : j to pass through to the rim.
Ilopworth's Robin Hood ; Moore's " The margin or outer edge must be
Jubilee; Lightbody's Star of Beth- | of a permanent green or grey colour.^
lehem ; Stretch's Alexander. Grey- The circles which compose the face of
edged: Atcherley's Alpine Shepherd- the pip are considered of the finest prO'

ess; Metcalfe's Lancashire Hero:
Ashworth's Newton Hero; Simpson's
Lord of Hallamshire; Kent's Queen
Victoria. White-edged : Lily of the
Valley ; Wild's Bright Phoebus ; Leigh's
Earl Grosvenor. Se/fs .• Oddie's Rest,
Goldfinch, (yellow,) Faulkner's Han-
nibal ; Bradsliaw's Tidy. I ought to
have stated that the amateur's first
collection comprises such as are not
high priced, and yet good ; but it must
not be forgotten that the second addi

portion when they are of a nniform
width, that of each circle being half the
diameter of the tube." — Gard. Citron.

Propngatio/i is effected by taking slips
from and dividing roots of approved va-
rieties, after the seed has ripened in
July and August.

Diseases. — The auricula is liable to
have its roots ulcerated or cankered if
the pots are not well drained. This is
best done by having the pots one-fourth
filled with rubbly charcoal, and the soil

tion contains all the first-rate varieties i not too much divested of pebbles. At

in cultivation, with very few excep-
tions."— Gard. Chron.

Characteristics of excellence. — " In
its general appearance, the foliage
should be well grown and healthy,
covering a space about equal to double

the blooming time the aphis or greenfly
sometimes attacks the plants ; these can
only be removed individually by means
of a camel's-hair pencil.

AVENUE, is a road bordered by
trees on each side, and being, as ob-

the width of the head of bloom. The served by Whately, confined to one ter-

Ktem should be firm, erect, and suffi-
ciently strong to support the truss with-
out assistance, and to carry it well above
the foliage. The foot-stalks of the pip
should be strong and of such a length
as will allow the flowers to open with-
out one overlaying another, the whole
forminsj a compact globular head of

mination, and excluding every view on
the sides, has a tedious sameness
throughout ; to be great it must be dull,
and the object to which it is appropri-
ated is after all seldom shown to advan-
tage. Buildings in general do not ap-
pear so large, and are not so bcautifuJ
when looked at in front, as when they

well expanded flowers equal in size and are seen from an angular situation, which
similar in properties. ! commands two sides at once, and throws

" The addition of one or two guard- them both in perspective ; but a wind-
leaves, standing up at the back of the ; ing lateral approach is free from these
truss, gives a finish to the whole, and , objections, it may besides be brought
adds considerably to its beauty by the ! up to the house without disturbing any
contrast thev form with the vivid and ' of the views from it, but an avenue cuts

lively appearance of the flowers

the scenery directly in two, and reduces

The qualities which the individual all the prospect to a narrow vista. A
pip should possess consist in its being 1 m«re line of perspective, be the extent
perfectly round, flat and smooth on the ' what it may, will seldom compensate
edge ; the divisions which form the seg- j for the loss of that space which it divides,
nients of the corolla should be but and of the parts which it conceals,
slightly indented, thereby rendering the ' These kind of walks were formerly much

circles more perfect.

more the fashion than they arc at pre-

" The tube or centre must be round, ' sent : where they arc to be made, the
of a yellow colour, filled with the an- j common elm answers very well for the
thers or thrum. purpose in most grounds, except such

" The eye or paste round the tube I as are very wet and shallow, and pre-

AVE

74

AZ A

fferred to most other trees, because it
bears cutting, heading, or lopping in
any manner. The rough Dutch elm is
approved by some because of its quick
growth, and it is a tree that will not
only bear removing very well, but that
is green in the spring almost as soon as
any plant whatever, and continues so
equally long. It makes an incompara-
ble hedge, and is preferable to all other
trees for lofty espaliers. The lime is
very useful on account of its regular
ffrowth and fine shade, and the horse-
chestnut is proper for such places as are
not too much exposed to rough winds.
The common chestnut does very well in
a good soil, or on warm gravels, as it
rises to a considerable height, when
planted somewhat close; but when it
stands singly it is rather inclined to
spread than grow tall. The beech na-
turally grows well with us in its wild
state, but it is less to be chosen for ave-
nues than others, because it does not
bear transplanting well. The abele may
also be employed for this use, as it is
adapted to almost any soil, and is the
quickest grower of any forest tree. It
seldom fails in transplanting, and suc-
ceeds very well in wet soils, in which
the others are apt to suffer. The oak
is but seldom used for avenues, because
of its slow growth ; it would, however,
compensate by its permanence and
beauty. The sugar maple, tulip poplar,
oriental and native buttonwood are all
well adapted to the purpose.

AVERRHOA. Two species. Stove
CTcrgreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy
loam.

AVERUNCATOR, or pole pruning
shears. The Averuncator, attached to
a pole, operates by means of a lever
moved by a cord and pulley ; its use is
to prune from the ground trees whose
branches are beyond reach. Branches
of one inch and a half in diameter may
be easily cut off with this instrument.
Averuncators of small size, arc also very
useful in cutting off from shade and
fruit trees small branches to which in-
sects have attached themselves: they
are also used for gathering fine fruits,
which when cut fall into a basket, to be
attached to the instrument when used
for this purpose.

Fig. 20 is a very effective instrument
of a similar kind, and has the advantage
of a sliding cut, which lessens the labour
of pruning, and leaves the branch which

has been cut as smooth as though a knife
had been used ; this instrument is supe-
perior to Fig. 19 in this respect, but
will not cut a branch of greater diame-
ter than one inch.

Fig. 19.

AVIARY. This building, devoted
to the rearing of birds distinguished for
the beauty either of their notes or plum-
age, is rarely admitted within a garden,
and still more rarely are they sutficient-
ly ornamental or sufficiently free from
disagreeables to be a source of pleasure.

AYENIA. Two species. Stove ever-
greens. Cuttings. Rich loam.

AZALEA. Sixty species, and many
varieties. The North American are
hardy and deciduous, and the Chinese
or Indian are green-house evergreens.
Cuttings. Sandy peat and loam.

Mr. James Falconer, of Cheam, gives
the following excellent directions for

A Z A

75

A Z A

cultivating the varieties of Azaka In-
dica.

" Many varieties will throw up three
r four stems ; the strongest should be

Soil. — "The soil best adapted for their selected for a leader. When growing,
growth is a peaty earth Ibund on com- , they should have plenty of air and light,
nions where heath abounds, of a light without being exposed to a cold cur-
fibrnus texture, and containing a good ! rent, which is so frequently prejudicial
portion of Siind. It should be pared off i to young plants in the spring, when
from three inches to fourinchesdeep, the clear sunshine and cold winds prevail,
turves should be spread bottom upwards, ; As they will be required to grow as late

and exposed to the sun during summer,
and after having a few showers of rain
upon it to restore it to a proper degree
of moisture, it may be Ini'! "ii in narrow
ridges in the autumn ; ri cm then be
taken to the potting-shed as rei|iiired.
When used, it should be broken or se-
parated with a trowel, and not sifted,
rejecting the undecayed surlhce ; and
for the strong-growing varieties, to six-
eighths of peat and one-eighth loam,
and one-eighth silver sand.

" Sowing. — The Indian Azaleas ripen
their seed in February, which should be
sown about the beginning of March in
pots with ample drainage, and a larger
portion of silver sand mixed with the
peat. The pot should be filled to within
half an inch of the top, and pressed
evenly and firmly down with the bottom
of another.

" The seed should then be sown re-
gularly over the surface, and after being
covered sufficiently deep with peat,
again pressed down, so that,aller being
watered, the seed may remain buried.
The pots should be placed on a shelf in
the green-house, and shaded from the
direct rays of the sun.

" It is better that the seeds should ve-
getate by the increasing heat of the
spring than by artificial means, since
they will come up stronger, and are not
so liable to damp off. They may be
pricked out into other pots as soon as
they have made two or three leaves,
and as they advance in growth they may
be potted into thumbs, or small sixties,
in which they may remain in winter,

in the autumn as t!)e weather will per-
mit without applying fire-heat, and as
it is not desirable that they should form
tlower-buds this season, those wh'ch
want pot-room should be again shifted
about the latter end of July. Great care
should be taken that they are not over-
potted, and that they have sufficient
drainage; elevating the collar of the
stem considerably, by rounding the
upper side of the ball, but not so as to
injure the tender and delicate fibres.
The azalea is liable to canker from the
water remaining too long about the col-
lar; therefore, in watering, the spout
of the pot should never be applied to it,
as the cold current of water frequently
repeated will check the flow of sap,
and ultimately cause death.

" They should be placed at the back
of the green-house during the winter,
as near the glass as convenient, to ripen
the wood.

" In the following spring they should
be subjected to the same treatment,
and again shifted into larger pots. —
About the latter end of July they will
have the afternoon sun. Free from the
drip of trees and protected from high
winds, the plants will now be of suffi-
cient size to bloom, and in September
will have formed their flower-buds.

" When out of doors they should be
occasionally syringed overhead in very
dry weather, and the ground around
them frequently stirred and watered.

"About the middle of December,
two or three varieties should be put
nto a forcing-house, ranging from 50'

" Culture. — About the beginning of to G.5''; these will begin to bloom about
March those which are intended for I the latter end of January, after which
specimens should be put into a house they should be removed to the green-
at a temperature of from •15'' to 50''\ house or conservatory, to which they
where they will soon be excited to \ will give much brilliancy, and in mild
grow. If in sixty or forty sized pots, weather impart a mild perfume. About
they should be shifted into sizes larger; a week before the first have expand-
but it is better to do this when the ed their blossoms, another succession
plants are in a growing state. They , should be put in, selecting those which
should then be shaded for a few days,! from the enlargement of their buds give
and when the flower is shut up in the evidence of their susceptibility of ex-

afternoon, gently syringed

, citement ; observing that the more Ta-

AZ A

76

B AL

nous the colour of the flower, the better :
effect will be produced in the green-
house. It is a safe rule to keep up for
a succession three or four varieties, to
be put into heat as above stated, once '
a month, until the season is so far ad-'
vanced that the flowers are bursting in chio.

the cool house. BABIANA. Eighteen species.

" They should then be taken into Green-house bulbs. Offsets or seeds,
heat, by which means the flower will Sand, loam and peat.

where, it is probable, the finest speci-
mens in a cultivated state still exist.

AZARA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. —
Sandy loam.

AZOREAN FENNEL. See Fino-

be larger, the colours more brilliant, and
their fragrance more delightful. Every

B A C A Z I A spinosa. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and

means should be adopted to prevent i loam,
the attacks of the humble bee, as every BACCHARIS. Ploughman's Spike-
blossom in which it inserts its proboscis nard. Twelve species. Chiefly stove
will fall off in a few hours afterwards. ] and green-house evergreen shrubs. B.

"When the large specimen plants glomcriflora and haliinifolia are hardy
have done flowering, all the seed ves- | deciduous. Cuttings. Loam and peat,
sels should be picked off, leaving such j BACTRIS. Seven species. Palms,
as are intended for seed. They should Stove. Seed. Sandy loam,
be then shifted and encouraged to grow; | BADGER'S BANE, Aconitum meloc-
afterwards placing them out of doors,' tonum.
as before stated. B^ECKIA. Nine species. Green-

" Great care should be taken at all ' house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. —
times to keep them free from insects,! Loam and peat.

as they are liable to be attacked by ai BAKING is a term descriptive of the
species of thrips, for which the best ; hard impervious state of clayey soils,
remedy is a strong fumigation of to- long exposed to drought. It can be
bacco. The varieties Variegata and La- prevented only by altering the staple of
teritia, are early excited in the spring; the soil, by the admixture ofsand, chalk,
but are nevertheless the latest bloomers; coal-ashes, and other less cohesive mat-
they will make stronger and finer spe-| ters than clay.

cimens by being inarched on the most
robust stocks.

" If after they have made their au- '
tumnal growth they should not have
formed flower-buds, by placing them in

BALANTIUM culcita. Stove fern.
Division. Peat and loam.

BALM (Melisxa officinalis).

Soil and situation. — The soil best
suited to its growth, is any poor and

a stove in a strong moist heat, until , friable, but rather inclining to clayey
they have again burst into leaf, and then than silicious. Manure is never re-
removing them to a cold green-house, quired. An eastern aspect is best for it.
the excitement produced will frequently Time and mode of planting. — It is
cause them to set their flower-buds." — 1 propagated by offsets of the roots, and
Card. Chron. Our own native varieties | by slips of the young shoots. The first
have been sadly overlooked in the ' mode may be practised any time during
search for foreign beauty — those from the spring and autumn, but the latter
the far south are equally hardy with only during May or June. If offsets
those of the middle states, and are are employed, they may be planted'at
readily cultivated ; the varieties are nu- once where they are to remain, at tea
merous, and embrace almost every or twelve inches ; but if by slips, thev
shade of colour, including pure white, ' must be inserted in a shady border, to
from light yellow to brilliant flame; | be thence removed, in September or
they thrive better partially screened October, to where they are to remain,
from the sun's rays, and demand a pe- At every removal water must be given,
culiar soil easily compounded by a if dry weather, and until they are estab-
mixture ofsurface earth from woodland, lislied. During the summer they re-
and decomposed turf or grass sods, in quire only to be kept clear of weeds,
about equal proportions. The two ear- In October the old beds require to be
liest collections of this splendid shrub | dressed, their decayed leaves and stalks
were made at the Bartram Botanic cleared away, and the soil loosened by
Gardens, and the Landreth Nurseries, I the hoe or slight digging.

B AL

77

B A N

Old beds may be gathered from in
July, for drying, but their green leaves
from March and September, and those
planted in spring, will even atTord a
gathering in the autumn of the same
year. For drying, the stalks are cut
with their full clothing of leaves to the
very bottom, and the process completed
gradually in the shade.

BALM OF GILEAD. Several plants
are popularly known under this name.
"The Balm ofGilead of commerce is the
dried juice of a low tree or shrub {amyris
^ileadensis), which grows in several
])arts of Abyssinia and Syria. This tree
has spreading, crooked branches; small,
bright-green leaves, growing in threes ;
and small, white flowers on separate
footstalks. The petals are four in num-
ber, and the fruit is a small, egg-shaped
berry, containing a smooth nut. By the
inhabitants of Syria and Egypt, this bal-
sam, as ap[)ears from the Scriptures,
was in great esteem from the highest
periods of antiquity. We are informed
by Josephus, the Jewish historian, that
the balsam of Oilead was one of the
trees which was given by the queen of
Sheba to king Solomon. The Ishmael-
itish merchants, who were the pur-
chasers of Joseph, are said to have been
traveling from Gilead, on the eastern
side of Canaan, to Egypt, and to have
had their camels laden with ' spicery,
balm and myrrh.' It was then, and is
still, considered one of the most valua-
ble medicines that the inhabitants of
those countries possess. The virtues,
however, which have been ascribed to
it exceed all rational bounds of credi-
bility. The mode in which it is obtain-
ed is described by Mr. Bruce. The
bark of the tree is cut with an axe, at
a time when its juices are in their
strongest circulation. These, as they
ooze through the wound, are received
into small earthen bottles ; and everv
day's produce is gathered, and poured
into a larger bottle, which is closely
corked. When the juice first issues
from the wound, it is of a light-yellow
colour, and a somewhat turbid appear-
ance ; but, as it settles, it becomes
clear, has the colour of honey, and ap-
pears more fixed and heavy than at first.
Its smell, when fresh, is exquisitely fra-
grant, strongly pungent, not much un-
like that of volatile salts; but if the
bottle be left uncorked, it soon loses
this quality. Its taste is bitter, acrid,

aromatic and astringent. The quantity

'] of balsam yielded by one tree never
exceeds 60 drops in a day. Hence its
scarcity is such, that the genuine bal-
sam is seldom exported as an article ot'
commerce. Even at Constantinople,
the centre of trade of those countries,
it cannot, without great difficulty, be

I procured. In Turkey, it is in high cs-

' teem as a medicine, an odorifor'bus un-
guent and a cosmetic. But its stimu-
lating properties upon the skin are such,
that the face of a person unaccustomed
to use it becomes red and swollen after
its application, and continues so for
some days. The Turks also take it in
small qantities, in water, to fortify the
stomacli."' — Encyc. Am.

\ BALSAM or LADIES' SLIPPERS
(Impatiens trifiora). The cultivation of
this common yet beautiful half hardy
annual is so thoroughly understood, as
not to require remark farther than •' we
believe it to be true, that old seeds
produce finer balsams under equal cir-
cumstances than new seeds ; and the
reason is thought to be, that the plants
raised from old seeds are not so vigor-
ous as others." — Card. Citron.

BALSAM APPLE. Momordica bal-
sam inea.

BALSAMINA. Balsam. Eleven
species. Green-house annuals. Seeds.
Light rich loamy soil.

BALSAMODENDRON zeylanicum.
Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

i BALSAM-TREE. Clusia.

\ BANANA-TREE. Musa Sa-
pientum.

BANE-BERRY. Acta:a.

\ BANNISTERIA. Thirteen species.

i Chiefly stove evergreen twining plants.
Cuttings. Loam and sandy peat.

BANK'S {slopi?ig), says Mr. Barnes,
" Are of great advantage in bringing
forth vegetation of all kinds at an early
season in a healthy state, and in the
greatest abundance. Another great ad-
vantage is their forming a boundary and
shelter to the valleys, borders, or slips
between them, dividing the quarters
into any desired portions, for the suc-
cession of all vegetable crops, salads,
&c. By cropping both sides, the season
of thedifl'erent articles is prolonged, and
through their being placed in such a
healthy situation,! find I can always
secure abundance of salads, lettuce,

; endive, radishes, cauliflower, and cab-

BAN

78

BAR

bage-plants. The first early cabbage I BARBERRY (Berberis vulgaris).
a.nd peas I liave planted in these sloping ; There are five varieties of this elegant
banks with great advantage. The win- [ shrub — the red, without and with stones;
ter endive being cleared and the slopes the black sweet, which is tender, and
forked, a situation is provided for the , requires a sheltered border; the purple,
first out-door crops of carrots, turnips, ' and the white.

radishes, &c. The slopes that are next j Propagation. Suckers, cuttings, and
cleared in succession make prorision layers may be employed either in the
for the early dwarf kinds of French ; spring or autumn. The seed is very
beans on the south side; and late 1 rarely used.

planted Windsor or other kinds of late Soil. — A sandy, or calcareous soil,
beans are planted on the north side, , with a dry subsoil, suits it best,
■which is found a good situation for | Culture. — It requires no other prun-
them ; besides forming a shelter to the ing than such as is necessary to keep it
others by breaking the cold winds, within bounds.

Others are cropped with strawberries Fruit. — This is fully ripe in October,
on both sides. The slopes that are and is gathered in entire bunches for
cleared latest in the spring, are cropped ; preserving, pickling, and candying,
■with late cauliflower, with the first; Diseases. — It is liable to be infected
planting of early Cape brocoli on the with a parasitical fungus, once believed
north side, and succession of other to be the same as that which is known as
vegetables are kept up throughout the the mildew on wheat, but they are now
season. By constantly keeping the sur- i known to be different species. That
face stirred, the crops are all to be j vvhich preys upon the Barberry is Puc-
seen in a healthy state, progressing ad- cinia, and that which attacks Wheat is
mirably in favourable weather through- Uredo. Consequently the old popular
out the winter months, and indeed, the opinion among farmers, that the mildew

■whole season through.

" The advantage of forming sloping
banks do not end in that derived from

on wheat originated on and was propa-
gated by the Barberry, has exploded.
BARBIERIA polyphylla. Stove

the variation of aspect, the healthiness I evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat,
and the prolongation of the crops, and j BARK. — The refuse bark from the
in securing shelter ; but there is a still ■ tanner's yard is employed by the gar-
greater advantage, by gaining a con- i dener as a source of heat, and when
siderable extent of surface ; thus, with | thoroughly broken down by putrefac-
one acre of land with a flat surface, it tion, as a manure.

is an easy matter to increase it one- , As a source of heat, it is much less
half, by the sloping bank system." — 'used than formerly, flues, steam, and
Card, journ. I the hot water system having very gene-

BANKSIA. Forty-two species. ' rally and most deservedly superseded
Green-house evergreen shrubs, except ' it. Bark for heating requires frequent
B. verticillata, which is a tree. Ripe i stirring and renew ing, and if too much
cuttings or seeds. Sandy peat. | moisture be added, is apt to give out

BAOBAB-TREE. Adansonia. | an excessive and irregular heat. In

BAPTISIA. Ten species. Hardy

herbaceous plants. Divisions. Common
loamy soil.

BARBACENIA squamatosa. Stove
herbaceous. Cuttings. Sandy loam.

BARBADOES CEDAR. Juniperus
barbadensis.

BARBADOES CHERRY. Malpi- \
ghia. ; general or regular. This is to be con-

BARBADOES GOOSEBERRY. Pe- tinned for a month or five weeks, in
reskia. warm weather the shorter time being

BARBADOES LILY. Amaryllis \ requisite, and then, having acquired a

addition, it is a troublesome harbour
for predatory insects.

Bark fresh from the tan-yard being
thrown lightly together under a shed,
must be gently moistened if dry, and
turned over twice a week, to expose all
its particles to the air. Unless this be
done, the fermentation will not be

equestris.

BARBAREA, Winter cress. Seven
species. Hardy herbaceous plants. Di-
vision. Common soil.

general and equal heat, it is ready for
use in the stove. Usually it will con-
tinue to afford heat for a period varying
between three and six months, but

BAR

79

BAR

sometimes ceases to ferment without i ily effects a cure. Scoring tlie bark
any apparent cause. Wlienever the 1 lengthwise with a knife is a usual reme-
heat declines, the tan must be taken dy, and generally effects the purpose,
out, sifted, the dusty parts removed, | BARKING IRONS, or Bark Scalers,
and some fresh tan added. Sometimes i are for scraping off the indurated epi-
turning the old tan and moistening it dermis, or dry scales, from the stems

be sufficient,
It is desirable, on the first formation

1 and branches of trees.

BARK STOVE, or Moist Stove, is a

of a bed, to mix new and old tan to- | hot-house which, either by having a
gether, in which case the quantity of i mass of fermenting matter, or an open
new bark to be brought into the pit will j reservoir of hot water within side, has
depend upon the goodness of the bark, I its atmosphere constantly saturated

and the bottom heat required. As much
new tan as will fill two third parts of
the bark-pit, with a mixture of old
rotten, reduced almost to earth, will
produce a bottom heat of about 85^ ;
when old tan with higher remains of
strength is used to modify the new, the
same heat may be produced if the quan-
tity be not more than half the capacity
of the pit. This refers to a new pit;
after a bark bed has been in action,
partial renewals of bark to keep up the
heat are frequently sufficient in the
reduced proportion of one-third, one-
sixth, one-twelfth, or less. At inter-
mediate stages between the partial
renewals, the bed requires only to be
excited to a brisker fermentation by
forking up. About five-sevenths of the
pit from the bottom should be occupied

with moisture, congenially with the
habits of some tropical plants. It re-
ceived the name of Bark Stove, because
tanner's bark was formerly a chief
source of heat emploved. (See Stove.)

BARKKRIA. Two species. Stove
epiphytes. Division. Peat and pot-
sherds, or wood.

B A R L E R I A. Fourteen species.
Stove evergreen shrubs, except B. longi-
folia, which is biennial. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

BARNADESIA rosea. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Rich loam.

BARNADIA scilloides. Half hardy
bulbous plants. Offsets. Peat and loam.

BAROMETER.— Mr. P. Christensen,
of Cowes, in the Isle of Wight, Lecturer
upon Astronomy, &c., has arranged a
table, which no one having a weather-

by the new and old tan as a fermenting glass should be without. This "Com-
body; and about two-sevenths from the panion to the Barometer" is the result
top, or a little more than the depth of of thirty-two years' observation, and
the pot, whatever that may be, should the following is an epitome of the in-
consist of old tan incapable of heating, formation it gives. During the tirst six
60 as to burn the roots of the plants ; months of the year, when the mercury
as least such should be the ordinary i is rising, if the weather has been bad,
distribution of the tan ; but where pecu- [ and the mercury reaches to 29.62
liar circumstances require a speedy inches, there will be a change ; if to
augmentation of heat without displacing 30.12, the weather will be fair; if to
the pots, and when fruit is to be swelled i 30.29, set fair. If the mercury has been
off in the last stage, the earthy tan at high, and begins falling, there will be

top may be taken away, and new tan
substituted. — (Abercrombie.)

As amanure. See vegetable matters.

BARK-BOUND. — When a tree is
affected with this disease, cracks will

a change if it declines to 29.90 ; rain,
if it descends to 29.50 ; and wind, with
rain, if it reaches 29.12.

During the last six months of the
year, if the weather has been foul, and

appear in it partially, and in the case of the mercury begins rising, there will be
the Cherry, Apricot, Peach, and Necta- a change if it reaches to 29.48 ; fair if
rine, gummy exudations will follow. It to 30.13; and set fair if to 30.45. If the
is a sure indication that either the soil | weather has been fair, and the mercury
is loo rich, or not sufficiently drained ; i begins falling, there will be a change
the latter is usually the source of the if it sinks to 29.87 ; rain, if to 29.55 ; and
evil, causing a repletion of the interior wind with rain, if to 29.28. At any time
vessels which the dry cuticle cannot of the year, if the mercury fall to 28.10,
expand sufficiently quickly to accommo- or even to 28.20, there will bo stormy
date. I'ncler-draining, and scrubbing i weather. These conclusions are from
the stem with brine or soft soap, speed- 1 observations made at thirty feet above

BAR

80

BAR

the sea's level, and therefore one one-! BARRINGTONIA speciosa. Stove
hundredth part of an inch must be add- evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam and
ed to the height of the mercury for peat.

every additional ten feet above the sea's I BARTHOLINA pectinata. Terres-
level, where the barometer may happen trial orchid. Offsets. Sandy loam and
to be. peat.

BARREN PLANTS. The male BARTON, Benjamin S., M. D., Pro-
flowers of the cucumber, melon, and i fessor in the University of Pennsvlva-
other monoecious plants, are popularly nia. Born at Lancaster, Pa., 1766.
known as barren flowers; and the Died Dec, 1S15. In 1789 appointed
plants of the asparagus, mercury, and Professor of Natural History and Botany

other dioecious plants bearing only
male plants, are usually termed barren.
These are naturally unfruitful ; but there
is also a barrenness arising from dis-
ease or other consequences of bad cul-
tivation. If a tree, or any other plant,
does not yield the desired produce of

in the College of Philadelphia. His
chief publication is Elements of Zoolo-
gy and Botany.

'BARTONIA. Four species. Hardy
annuals and biennials. Seed. Sandy
loam.

BARTRAM, John, one of the most

fruitof which it is capable, the gardener , distinguished of Americaa botanists,
may be assured thatthe soil, or the want j was born in Chester county, Pennsylva

of drainage, or the manuring, or the
pruning, is injurious. Even a bli?id or

ma, in 1701. His grandfather, of the
same name, accompanied William Penn

barren cabbage may be made produc- to this country, in 16S2. — B. was a sim
live ; for its barrenness arises from the , pie farmer. He cultivated the ground
central bud being abortive, and it will ; for subsistence, while he indulged an
produce lateral buds, if all but one leaf] insatiable appetite for botany. He was
and the place of the abortive bud be cut ' self-taught in that science, and in the
^^^■'ly- I rudiments of the learned languages,

Temperature has a great influence [ and medicine and surgery. So great,
over the sex of the flowers produced by in the end, was his proficiency in his
a given plant. A very high tempera- 1 favourite pursuit, that Linna;us pro-
ture caused a water-melon to bear male ....

blossoms only ; and a very low temper-
ature made cucumber plants yield fe-
male flowers alone. Mr. Knight had
little doubt that the same fruit stalks

nounced him " the greatest natural
botanist in the world." He made ex-
cursions, in the intervals of agricultural
labour, to Florida and Canada, herboriz-
ing with intense zeal and delight. At

might be made, in the plants just no- the age of 70, he performed a journey
ticed, to support flowers of either sex ; to East Florida, to explore its natural
in obedience to external causes. '-productions ; at a period, too, when the

BARREN SOIL. No soil is abso- toils and dangers of such an expedition
lutely incapable of production; and far exceeded those of any similar one
when it is spoken of as being barren, no ' which could be undertaken, at the pre-
more is meant than that in its present sent time, within the limits of the U.
state it will not repay the cultivator. States. He first formed a botanic gar-
The unproductiveness arises from a de- i den in America, for the cultivation of
ficiency of some of the earths ; from an American plants, as well as exotics,
excess or deficiency of animal and ve- This garden, which is situated on the
getable matters ; or from an excess of banks of the Schuylkill, a few miles from
stagnant water. No soil can be pro- Philadelphia, still bears his name. He
ductive where nineteen parts out of contributed much to the gardens of Eu-

twenty are of any one earth or other
substance. If either chalk, or sand, or
clay, be in excess, the remedy is found
in adding one or both of the other two.
An excess of organic matter only occurs
in peat soils, and these are reclaimed
by draining, paring, and burning, and
the addition of earthy matter ; drain-

rope, and corresponded with the most
distinguished naturalists of that quarter
of the globe. Several foreign societies
and academies bestowed their honours
upon him, and published communica-
tions from him in their transactions. B.
died in 1777, in the 76th year of his
At the time of his death he held

age is also the cure for an excess of; the office of American botanist to

water.

, George III. of England. He was amia-

BAR

81

B A S

ble and charitable, and of the strictest
probity and temperance.

BARTRAM, William, fourth son of
John B., was born, 1739, at the botanic
garden, Kingsessing, Pennsylvania. At
the age of 16 years, he was placed with
a respectable merchant of Philadelphia,
with whom he continued six years ;

BARYOSM.V. Six species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Peat and sand.

BASELLA. Eigiit species. Stove
biennial climbers chiefly. Seed. Rich
light soil.

BASIL. (Ofi/mu;n.) There are two
kinds, the Sweet-scented (O. basilicum),

after which he went to North Carolina, and the Dwarf-bush (0. minimum).

with a view of doing business there as
a merchant; but, being ardently at-

So/7 and situation. — They thrive most
a rich light soil, entirely free from

t.iched to the study of botany, he re- j any overshaddwing body ; but they re

linquished his mercantile pursuits, and
accompanied his father in a journey
into East Florida, to explore the na

quire, especially for the earliest plants,
a sheltered border.

Time and mode of nowing. — They are

tural productions of that country; after ' propagated by seed, which may be sown_
which he settled on the river St. John's, i in a gentle hot-bed, with the shelter of

in this region, and finally returned
about the year 1771, to his father's resi-
dence. In 1773, at the request of Dr.
Fothergill, of London, he embarked for
Charleston, to examine the natural
productions of the Floridas, and the
western parts of Carolina and Georgia,
chiefly in the vegetable kingdom. In
this employment he was engaged nearly
five years, and made numerous contri-
butions to the natural history of the
country through which he travelled.
His collections and drawings were for-
warded to Doctor Fothergill; and,
about the year 1790, he published an

a frame at the close of March, or early
in April; to be thinned, and those re-
moved pricked out at the close of this
latter month in a similar situation, to be
finally removed in the course of May or
commencement of June, when settled
weather, in the open ground. This
sowing may be repeated at the close of
April, or beginning of May, on a warm
border, to be pricked and finally planted
out, after a lajjse of about five weeks
respectively between each operation.

When thinned, the seedlings must be
left at three inches apart, and those re-
moved pricked out at a siniilardistance.

account of his travels and discoveries,! The final planting must be made in rows
in 1 vol. Svo., with an account of the { a foot apart each way. Some plants oT
manners and customs of the Creeks, j all the sowing may be left where raised.

Cherokees, and Choctaws. This work
soon acquired extensive popularity, and
is still frequently consulted — After his

to be gathered from whilst young.
Water must be given at every removal,
as well as during every stage of their

return from his travels, he devoted him- I irrowth, when dry weather occurs,
self to science, and, in 1782, was elect- j VVeeds must be kept under, as well as
ed Professor of Botany in the University | the plants benefited by frequent hoeing.
of Pennsylvania, which post he de- j The young leaf tops are the parts
dined, in consequence of the state of | made use of in soups and salads, their

his health. In 17S6, he was elected a
member of the American Philosophical
Society, and was a member of several
other learned societies in Europe and
America. We are indebted to him for
the knowledge of many curious and
beautiful plants peculiar to North Ame-
rica, and for the most complete and
correct table of American ornithology,
before the work of Wilson, who was
assisted by him in the commencement
of his American Ornithology. He wrote
an article on the natural history of a
plant a few minutes before his death,
which happened suddenly, by the rup
ture of a blood vessel in the lungs, July
22, 1823, in the 8.7th year of his age.
6

flavour resembling that of cloves.

The supply is never failing during
summer, as they shoot out rapidly for
successive supplies.

To obtain seed. — Some of the earliest
raised plants must be left ungathcred
from. These flower from July to Sep-
tember, and accordingly ripen their
seed in early or late autumn.

BASKETS employed by the London
gardeners, being made of osier or deal
shavings, vary triflingly in size more
than measures made of less flexible
materials. They are as follows: —

S'cd kale punnets — eight inches diame-
ter at the top, and seven inches and a
half at the bottom, and tuo inches deep.

B A S

82

B E A

Radish punnets — eight inches diame-
ter, and one inch deep, if to hold six
hands ; or nine inches by one inch for
twelve hands.

Mushi-oom punnets — seven inches by
one inch.

Saladlng. punnets — five inches by two
inches.

Half sieve — contains three imperial
gallons and a half. It averages twelve
inches and a half diameter, and six
inches in depth.

Sieve — contains seven imperial gal-
lons. Diameter, fifteen inches; depth,
eight inches.

Bushel sieve — ten imperial gallons
and a lialf. Diameter at top, seventeen
inches and three quarters; at bottom,
seventeen inches; depth, eleven inches
and a quarter.

Bushel basket — ought, when heaped,
to contain an imperial bushel. Diame-
ter at bottom ten inches ; at top, four-
teen inches and a half; depth, seven-
teen inches. Walnuts, nuts, apples,
and potatoes are sold by this measure.
A bushel of the last-named, cleaned,
weighs fifty-six pounds, but four pounds
additional are allowed if they are not
washed.

There is one description of Basket
of which we think the Londoners know
but little. We allude to the Peach Bas-
ket.' It would excite no ordinary com-
motion were one of our noble steam-
boats to ascend the Thames, laden with
a thousand or more baskets, each con-
taining a bushel of ripe lusciouspeaches,
which are frequently sold in Philadel-
phia at twenty-five cents the basket.
Yet such is the sight which may be
seen (in fruitful seasons) on the Dela-
ware every dav in Aucust.

BASS, or BAST MATS. These are
chiefly made in Russia, from the inner
bark of trees (bast in the Iluss language).
Their best use is as a packing envelope,
for as a protection to wall trees they are
inferior to netting; and to standard
shrubs, structures made of straw (see
Sheltei's) are to be preferred. They are
very serviceable, however, to place over
beds of early spring radishes, &c., to
prevent the night radiation. This is
quite as eflTectual, much cleaner, and
less troublesome than a covering of
straw. The strands of these mats are
used by Nurserymen as binding, when
budding or engrafting, and are the best
adapted to the purpose of any material

known. Where it is not obtainable,
coarse loosely spun cotton or woollen
yarn, is a good substitute.

B A S S I A . Three species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

BASTARD ACACIA. Robinia pseu-
do-acacia.

BASTARD ACMELLA. Spilanthes
pseudo-acmella.

BASTARD CABBAGE TREE. Geof-
froya.

BASTARD CEDAR, Guazuma.

BASTARD CHERRY. Cerasuspsew-
do-cerasus.

BASTARD CliNNAMON. Cinnamo-
mum-cassia.

BASTARD CORK TREE. Quercus
pseudo-suber.

BASTARD DICTAMNUS. Beringe-
ria pseudo-diet amnus.

BASTARD HARE'S EAR. Phyllis.

BASTARD JASMINE. Androsace
chamcejasme.

BASTARD ALBIA. Lavatera pseu-
do-albia.

BASTARD QUINCE. Pyrus chama-
mespilus.

BASTARD WIND-FLOWER. Gen-
tiana pseudoipneumonanthe .

BATATAS. Twelve species. Chiefly
stove deciduous climbers. Young cut-
tings. Light rich soil.

BATExMANNIA Collegi. Stove
epiphyte. Bulbs. Peat and potsherds.

BATSCHIA. Four species. Hardy
herbaceous. Seeds and division. Com-
mon soil.

BAUER A. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sand and peat.

BAUHINIA. Forty-six species. Stove
evergreen shrubs or climbers. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

BAY TREE, Laurus nobilis, will
resist the winter nearly as far north as
Philadelphia, on light soils. Its aroma-
tic leaves render it an agreeable inmate
of tiie garden.

BEAD TREE. Melia.

BEAN. Vicia faha, of Linnctus. Feve
de niarais, Fr. Bohn,Ger. Fava,Ital.
Hahas, Span. " Of the above kind, com-
monly called in this country ' Horse
Bean,' there is considerable variety;
two of them have been selected by us
for cultivation, believing them the best
adapted for the climate, and quite suffi-
cient of the kind. They are the Early
Long Pod and Broad Windsor. Both

B E A

83

B E A

eucceed with the same treatment, but j six or eight inches in height, draw to-
the first named is the more certain ' wards, their base a portion of loose
bearer of the two. In England, where earth, which will encourage them to
they are extensively cultivated, they do put forth fresh fibres, and protect the
much better than in this country, pre- roots already formed, from the sun's
ferring its damp, cool atmosphere, to rays.'" — Rural Rci^ister.
our frequently dry and hot one ; to B K A N S, Kidney. Haricot, Fr.
counteract which it is desirable to plant Schminlcholine, Oer. Jadias, Span. F.j-
as early in the spring, as the ground guiolo,lta[. — " Ofthe Snap-Short Bean,
will admit of being worked — in the lati- the Haricot ofthe French, the varieties
tilde of Philadelphia (393 57' N.) the and sub-varieties are numerous. The
latter part of February, or beginning of Early Mohawk or Brown Six Weeks
March, if possible ; they then come into arrives soonest at perfection, and-is the
flower before the weather becomes hot, hardiest ofthe early ones; the Early
otherwise the blossoms drop, and set no Yellow, Red Speckled Valentine, an<l
fruit. China Red Eye, immediately succeed.

" Plant tiiem in drills, either single or The Red French is about the latest:
double, two inches apart in the drills, other varieties ripen promiscuously. All

and cover one to two inches deep. If
in double drills, with alleys two and a
half feet wide. If in single rows, two
feet alleys answer, unless it be intend-
ed to cultivate them with the horse hoe,
as is done by market gardeners

the kinds are brought to the Philadel-
phia market; some purchasers prefer-
ring one, and others another. The Red
Speckled Valentine is a variety very
generally admired ; it is round podded,
without strings, an abundant bearer,

'Those who are particularly fond of and remains tender longer than most
this bean, can accelerate the crop by others. The Brosvn Valentine or Re-
setting a frame at the close of winter, fiigee is an excellent variety, as is
under the lee of a board fence, or other also the China Red Eye. The pods of
protected situation, exposed to the sun, i the Red French are used as well for
which cover with glass, and in severe ; pickling as boiling, and the beans
weather with matting or straw, so as throughout the winter in a dry state, as
etiectuallv to exclude the frost. Herein haricots, and in soups, for which it is
plant the beans, one seed to the square usually preferred.

inch, and let them remain, until the [ "The usual plan of cultivating this
arrival of milder weather, when thev j tribe is in drills, double or single, two

should be transplanted to the position
in the garden which it is intended they
shall occupy. In transplanting them,

inches apart in the drills; two to two
and a hali' fert should be allowed be-
tween the drills. They are much

care should be taken not to injure the imore tender than the Long Pod
roots, to guarfl against which, use a or Windsor, and will not succeed, if
trowel to ease them up, and suffer as planted before the weather has become

much earth as will to adhere. During
the time they remain in the trame,tlie
sash should be raised when the weather

oinewhat settled, and the earth warm ;
in the latitude of Philadelphia, not ear-
lier than April, unless in very dry

is mild, to admit the air, and gradually ground, and protected situations. To
harden them, preparatory to full expo- have a constant supply, it will be neces-

siire when transplanted, else the sudden
change of temperature might prove

sary to plant successive crops at inter-
vals of two fir three weeks, which is

fatal. In order to make them set fruit much preferable to planting but seldom,
more certainly, it is the practice to and then a larger quantity. Plantations
nip off the top of leading shoots when made so late as 1st August generally
they are in full flower; this checks the succeed and yield abundantly,
growth, and directs the strength of the " When they have risen three or four
plant towards the blossoms. If a part ! inches, give them a caroful hoeing, to
of the flowers arc destroyed in this ope- j destroy all weeds, and loosnn the earth,
ration, there is no loss. j At this time, or shortly after, draw to-

'< Whilst the crop is growing and pro- I wards the base of the plants some of
gressing towards maturity, keep the the loose sod, to the depth of one or
ground well hoed, and freed from two inches. This process is termed
weeds. When the plants have attained ] ' landing,' and is highly beneficial in

B E A

84

BED

protecting flie roots from excessive | of a frame, (or hand-glass, which will
drought, and the direct rays of the ' answer the same purpose,) should have
sun. As the crop approaches matu- ' the hills prepared and poles inserted,
rity, nothing more is required than : choosing a mild, dry lime, about the
n occasional hoeing, observing always' close of May, for planting the beans.

to keep the ground free from weeds,

"In selecting a spot to plant beans,
choose where the soil is light and tole-
rably dry. If it be poor, apply a good
dressing of well rotted manure, either

If wet weather should immediately suc-
ceed, and the seed rot, replant as soon
as the ground dries. Good crops have
been produced in the vicinity of Phila-
delphia, when planted even so late as

spread over the entire surface, or placed first of June,
thedrills whendrawnout." — RuralReg. ; " After they become well established,
BEANS, Pole. — " The Scarlet Run- | and have clasped the poles, no further
jiERs, and White Dutch Beans, are i care is requisite, other than keeping
■verv delicately flavored, and are used \ the weeds under, and the hills occa-
either in the pod, or shelled when fur- i sionaliy stirred.

ther advanced ; but in Pennsylvania,

The Carolina or Sewee bean, is of

and perhaps farther south, they bear so a smaller size than the Lima ; much
sparingly mostseasons, as to bescarcely , hardier, rather earlier, and more pro-

worth cultivating.

" The Lima is too well known to need
description. Two varieties are culti-
vated ; the one broad and thin, the other
much thicker. We have sometimes
thought the latter the more tender and
delicate when boiled. The Lima Bean
js very tender, not bearing the slightest
frost, and is very subject to rot when
planted early, or during a spell of rainy
or damp, cool weather. To guard
against this, the best plan is to sprout

ductive, but generally considered less
rich. In other respects they closely
resemble each other — time of planting
may be a little in advance of the Lima
— cultivation precisely the same." —
Rural Register.

BEAN-CAPER. Tygophyllum.

BEARS-BANE. Aconitum ihereo-
phonum.

BEAR-BIND. Calystegia.

BEARS-BREECH. Acanthus.

BEARS-GRAPE. Arctostaphylos vva

them in a frame, (as recommended for '• ursi.

the Long Pod or Windsor,) so situated j BEAUFORTIA. Five species.

that the damp and frost can be exclud- ] Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-

ed. An old hot-bed answers the pur- j tings. Sandy loam and peat.

pose efi'ectually. They need not be I B E AU MON TI A . Two species,

planted therein before the middle of ; Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings and

spring, nor transplanted till towards its seed. Loam and peat.

close; a little earlier or later as the, BECIUM 6ico/or. Green-house shrub.

•weather may make expedient; if planted Cuttings. Sandy loam.*

early, they will at best remain station-' BED is a comprehensive word, ap-

ary, and may, perhaps, perish. They plicable to the site on which any culti-

should be planted in hills in well culti- vated plants are grown. It is most

vated ground, dressed either in the piece correctly confined to narrow division?

or hills, with thoroughly rotted manure,
from the barn-yard. The hills should
be raised three or four inches above the
average level, and be three feet apart
each way, with a pole six or eight feet

purposely restricted in breadth for .the
convenience of hand weeding or other
requisite culture.

BEDDING-IN. See Sowing.

BEDDING-OUT, is removing plants

high, well secured in the ground, to from the pots in which they have been
each hill. Three plants in a hill are ; raised, into the beds which they are in-
sufficient. As the vines shoot up, they tended to adorn during summer and
should be tied to the poles, till they autumn. Mr. Threlkeld gives this judi-
get hold, when they will support them cious advice upon the practice. If the
selves. In tying them, observe to do it season be dry, in the bottom of the hole
in the direction in which they incline to made for the plant put some rotten
clasp the pole, which is contrary to the dung, or other material that will retain
course of the sun, and opposed to the i water; water this well, plant, fill the

habit of most climbers.

hole to within two inches of the sur-

"Those who have not the convenience , face, add more water, and then fill up

BED

85

BEE

the hole. If water is necessary after- j introduced into this country within a

wards, hoe the beds when dry enough
Damp the leaves, if no appearance of
dew. — Gard. Chron. The following are
good plants for bedding out in masses :
— For large beds. Pelargoniums, espe-
cially the scarlet, Fuchsias and Pen

few years ; those who have cultivated
it <;ive it a high character, and consider
it fully e(iual to asparagus.

" The Mangold Wurtzel is principally
grown for stock. It is, however, very
early, rapid in its growth, and tolerably

stcmon gentianoidcs coccineus. For good for table use when young and

smaller beds. Petunia superba, beauty, tender. It might, therefore, be an object

and splendens; Gailardia picta ; CEno- with such as are particularly fond of

thera Drummondii; Verbena astrosan- beets, to sow a small quantity of this

guinea, Bishopii, Taglionii, and Queen ; ■ species for an early crop. As food for
and Lobelia splendens.

BEDKGUAR. See Cynips Rosa.

stock, especially milch cows, it is
scarcely surpassed, and the product is

BEE, (Apis.) All the species of this enormous
insect are friendly to the gardener, for " Silesian or Sugar. — The Sugar Beet
they all aid in impregnating his flowers, has had great popularity as food for
many of which without their aid would stock, and though not now as generally
fall unproductive of either fruit or seed. ; grown by our farmers as formerly, has
The honey bee (.4. vielUfiai) is the most many advocates who claim for it great
active in this operation ; but the humble j merit, and attribute the failure of others
bee {Bombits apis), and others of the to injudicious feeding. They argue that
robust species, are very valuable, being roots, during cold weather, should only
able to visit flowers in rough weather, be given in moderate quantities, and
when the honeybee will not venture always with a little bran or meal ; — that

from its hive

BEECH. Fagus.

the cows should be fed in comfortable
quarters. Such treatment, it is con-

BEET. Betterave, Fr. Rothe Rube,) tended, will produce satisfactory re-
Ger. Acelgas, Span. Barba Biettola, \ suits, which could hardly be expected
ItaL " The Red Beet is a native of the from roots frequently given in a frozen
sea-coast of the south of Europe. It state, the animal exposed to the cold,
was cultivated in England in 1656, and and without anything to counteract the

then called beet rave, (or beet-radish,)
from the French name, betterave.

" The long red or blood, is generally
used for the winter supply, and the ex-
tra early, and early turnip-rooted, for
the summer. The extra early turnip-

scouring tendency of the roots.

" All Beets do best when planted in
rows, as they then admit of hoeing and
more thorough cleaning. The rows
twelve or fourteen inches apart, the
plants in the rows not nearer than four

rooted has been lately introduced from inches. It is advisable to sow the seed

Italy — its growth is astonishingly ra- thicker than that, and when the plants

pid ; it should always be planted for arc two inches higii, thin them to the

the first crop, and the old turnip-rooted proper distance.

to succeed. " The seed is usually sown in a shal-

" There are several other kinds culti- I low drill, drawn by the hoe, and co-

vated, but the foregoing are the best vcred to the depth of an inch. For

known ; and being both early and late, the early crops plant early in spring, on

are beyond question amply sufficient.
" White Beet. This is a hardy bien

warm sheltered border. The com-
mencement of summer is sufficiently

nial plant, with leaves larger than the [ early to sow those intended for the
red beet, and very thick and succulent, winter supply. Should the weather be
It is a native of the sea coasts of Spain dry when about to sow at that season,
and Portugal. «< It is cultivated in gar- pour scalding water on the seed, and
dens entirely for the leaves, which are ; let them soak 24 to 48 hours, and roll

boiled as spinnage, or put in soups.
Those of the great white, or sweet beet.

in the seed.

The Beet requires rich ground, and

are esteemed for the mid ribs and stalks, like all tap-rooted plants, delights in
which are separated from the lamina of a deep loose soil. Throughout their
the leaf, and stewed and eaten as aspa- growth they demand occasional hoeing
ragus, under the name of chard." The between the rows, and freedom from
great white, or Swiss chard, has been weeds.

BEG

86

BET

" In farm culture, sow in drills three
feet apart, so as to admit the horse-hoe
— deep tillage produces its beneficial
effects on this crop as on most others.

"To save them during the winter,
they should be placed in the cellar,
against the wall, in tiers, tops outward,
with alternate layers of sand or earth.

BENTHAMIA fragifera. Hardy
evergreen shrub. Seeds or layers.
Common loamy soil.

BERARDIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Division.
Common soil.

BERBERIS. Thirty-three species.
Hardy evergreen or deciduous shrubs.

Or in hills in the garden, with a cover- : Cuttings or layers. Light common soil.

ing of earth two to three feet thick ;
the aperture at vvhich they are taken
out as required, being carefully closed
with straw ; for, should hard frost reach
them, they will decay." — Rural Reg.

BE^GONIA. Fifty-eight species.
Chiefly stove evergreens. Cuttings.
Rich loam.

BEJARIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

BELLADONNA LILY. Amaryllis
Belladonna.

BELLEISLE CRESS. Barbarca pre-
cox. See American Cress.

BELLEVALIA Operculata. Hardy
bulb. Suckers. Common light soil.

BELL FLOWER. Campanula.

BELL-GLASS, is so culled from its
usual form being that of a bell. It is
formed of one entire piece of glass, and
of common bottle glass when intended
for sheltering cauliriowers, &c., in the
open borders; but of white glass for
preserving moisture to cuttings in the
hot-house.

BELLIDIASTRUM Michelii. Hardy
herbaceous plant. Division. Peat and
loam.

BELLIS. Daisy. Five species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials, except B. an-
nwd, which is an annual. Division. Com-
mon soil.

BELLIUM. Four species. Hardy

See Barberry.

BERCKHEYA. Tenspecies. Chiefly
green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

BERINGERIA. Eight species. Chief-
ly hardy herbaceous perennials. Divi-
sion. Common soil.

BERIIYA amornilla. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Rich loam and
peat.

BERTEROA. Three species. Hardy.
Seeds or cuttings. Sandy soil.

BERTHOLLETIA excelsa. Brazil
Nut. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings.
Sand, peat, and loam.

BERZELIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy peat and loam.

BkSLERIA. Twelve species. Chief-
ly stove evergreen shrubs. B. cristata,
B. serrulata, B. violacea are climbers.
Cuttings. Very light rich soil.

BESOM, or Broom, received its se-
cond name from being often made of
the Broom plant ; but the best, both for
flexibility and durability, are made of
the ling or heath. Birch brooms are
the most common, and whatever the
material, they will endure much longer
if soaked in water for some time before
using. If kept constantly in water they
would be still less brittle. Where
walks are liable to become mossy, a
broom made of wire is frequently em-

planls. Seeds or division. Sandy peat, i ployed for sweeping them. If the wire

BELLOWS are employed for fumi-
gating, ■differing only liom the common
bellows by having a receptacle for ig-
nited tobacco in the pipe of its nozzle,
through which the air, being gently
forced in the usual vvay, propels the
smoke in any desired direction, where
the insects to be destroyed appear.

BELOPERONE oblongata. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

BENGAL QUINCE. Agle Marmelos.

BENJAMIN TREE. Ficus Benja-
mina.

BENJAMIN TREE. Laurus Ben-
zoin.

be iron, it ought to be well dried and
dipped in oil after being used, or it is
soon destroyed by the rust.

BESSERA. Two species. Green-
house bulbous perennials. Offsets. Peat
and sand.

BETA. Beet. Seven species. Hardy
biennials. B. trigyna is an herbaceous
perennial. Seeds. Rich mould.

BETEL NUT. Piper Betle.

BETONICA. Betony. Ten species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Suckers.
Common garden soil.

BETONY. Betonica.

BETONY. Teller ium betonicum.

BETULA. Birch. Twenty-two spe-

B IB

87

B I L

cies. Chiefly hardy deciduous trees
and shrubs. B. carpinifolia, B. pon-
tica, B. populifolia, are evergreens.
Grafting or budding, and layers for the
dwarf species. Common garden soil

capreolata is hardy, and -B. Carolina,
B. picta, and B. jas7ninoides, are green-
house climbers. B. grandiflora bears
some resemblance to our native cruci-
gera, but is far more desirable : its

B I B I O marci, St. Mark's Fly, of showy flowers are borne in large ra-
•which Mr. Curtis gives the following cemes, which expand in succession.

particulars : —

;ind thus continue in bloom for many

The larva; of this insect are generally weeks; it is from China, but quite hardy

gregarious, living in large groups of a
hundred or more in strawberry-beds,
vine borders, flower pots, and similar
undisturbed spots, feeding upon the
roots, and sometimes destroying the
entire plant. Bouche says they com

at Philadelphia; and from its rapid
growth admirably adapted for walls,
arbours, pillars, &c. Cuttings. Loam
and peat. B. venusta is cultivated as
follows by Mr. Brown, gardener to
Lord Southampton, at Whittlebury

pletely demolished his bed of Ranuncu- Lodge,
luses for several successive years, by I The situation in which it mostdelighta
eating up the tubers. The larva is of a ' is a dark bed, where the roots can run
dark brown colour, somewhat cylindri-' at liberty among the tan ; train upright
cal, the belly flattened, moderately until it reaches the top lights, then train
broad, and nearly linear; the head is >long the house. Towards the end ol

comparatively small, deep brown, some
times of a chestnut colour, and very
shining ; they change to pupa; generally
towards the end of March ; these are
of a pale ochreous colour, the head
being brighter.

Tlie female lays her eggs in the earth,
and in the dung of horses and cows, in
May ; they do not hatch until August.
— Gard. Chron.

BIDENS. Fourteen species. Chiefly
hardy plants. Seeds, suckers, division,
according to their habit and duration.
Common soil.

BIENNIAL, is a plant which, being

December, cut the plant into six or ten
feet, when it remains dormant through
the winter. In the beginning of March,
young shoots in abundance break from
the apparently dead wood; a sufficient
number of these to be trained along the
house, and these again produce laterals;
and at the end of each a cluster of blos-
som buds is formed. On the production
of these lateral shoots depends the free
blooming of the plant, to encourage
which a damp atmosphere is to be kept
by pouring water over the pathways,
and by frequently syringing the plant.
All superfluous shoots are stopped ; and

produced from seed in one year, per- j it is necessary to pay a good deal of at

fects its seed and dies during the year ; tention to this, for an over abundance

following. Biennials may often be made : of shoots would soon be produced that

to endure longer if prevented ripening
their seeds, and many exotics, biennials
in their native climes, are perennials in
our stoves.

Hardy Biennials. — Some of these
ripen their seeds as early as August, in
which case they may be sown as soon
as harvested. Others ripenincr their

would form a complete thicket. The
plant commences flowering about the
beginning of September. — Gard. Chron.

BILBERRY. Vaccinium myrtillus.

BILLMBI TREE. Aierrhoa bilimbi.

BILL (Fig. 21), a sharp-edged tool,
emplo\ed in cutting hedges, sharpen-
ing stakes, &c. It should never be used

seeds later must have these reserved ! in pruning valuable trees ; but where the
from sowing until May. The double,j branch is too strong to be cut with the
varieties of wall-flowers, stocks, &c., knife, the saw oughtalwaystobeapplied.
are propagated by cuttings.

Frame Biennials. — These required
the shelter of a frame during the early
stages of their growth ; to be removed
thence in May to the borders, where
thev bloom in .lulv and August.

B I F R E N A R I A. Three species.
Stove epiphytes. Division.

B I G N 0 N I A. Sixty-one species.
Chiefly stove evergreen climbers. B.

Fig. 21.

BILLARDIERA. Six species. Green-
house evergreen climbers. Cuttings.
Rich loam and peat.

BIL 88

— ♦

BILLBERGIA. Ten sppcies. Stove |
epiphytes. Suckers. Rich mould. |

BILLOTIA acerosa. Green-house
everprRen shrub. Cuttirif^s. Sandy peat.

B 1 N DW K 1 : D . Con volvulus .

BINDWHKD. Smilnx Aspera. ,

BIOPHYTVM sensitiium. Hardy an-
nual. Seeds. Common soil.

BIRCH. Betula.

BIRCH. Carpinus Betulus.

BIRDS are benefactors as well as in-
jurera of the gardener. They destroy
millions of grubs, caterpillars, and :
aphides, which would have ravaged his
crops ; but at the same time they com- :
mit sad havoc upon his fruit and seeds.
The wisest course, consequently, is to
scare them from the garden at such
times, or from the portions of it in
which they can be prejudicial, but to
leave them to visit it unmolested when-
ever and wherever they cannot be mis- j
chievous. Thus in early spring a boy :
or two will drive them away during]
such time as the buds of the gooseberry,
currai't, and plum, are open to their
attacks ; and again during the time that
the cherries are ripe. To keep them
from the fruit of late gooseberries and
currants, it is sufficient to interlace
thickly the bushes with red worsted.
To keep them from attacking peas and
other vegetables just emerging from the
soil, a similar display of white thread
fastened to pegs about six inches from
the surface, is also efficiently deterrins;.
Nets, where availal)le, are also suffi-
cient guardians. By these aids, but
especially by the watching during cer-
tain seasons, the gardener may protect
himself from injury at a very trifling ex-
pense, without depriving himself of the
services of the most sharp-sighted, most
unwearying, and most successful of all
insect killers; and, it should also be
added, one of the most agreeable ap-
pendages to rural life. Without birds,
next to flowers, the cotintry would be
desolate. What delightful associations
and recollections present themselves as
we call to mind the chir[)ing of the
wren, the homeh' notes of the familiar
cat-bird, the gambols of the martin, and
the periodical visits of the confiding
robin and snow-bird.

BIRD CHERRY. Cerasus padus.

BIRD PEPPER. Capsicum bacca-
tum.

BIRD'S BILL. Trigonella ornitho-
podioides.

BL A

BIRD'S EYE. Primula farinosa.

BIRD'S FOOT. Orthinopus.
. BIRD'S FOOT, Euphorbia orthino-
pus.

BIRD'S FOOT TREFOIL. Lotuf.

BIRD'S NEST. Asplenium Nidus.

BIRD'S TONGUE. Ornitho gios-
sum.

BIRTHWORT. Aristolochia.

BISCUTELLA. Twenty-three spe-
cies. Hardy annuals and herbaceous
perennials. Seeds. Loam and peat.

BISERRULA pelecinus. Hatchet
vetch. Hardy annual. Seeds. Sandy
loam or peat.

BITTER SWEET. Solanum Ihd-
camara.

BIVON.^A LUTEA. Annual.
Seeds. Dry sandy soil.

BIXA. Three species. Stove ever-
green trees. Seeds or cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

BIZARRE. See Carnation.

BLACK ARCH MOTH. SeeBomhjx.

BLACK CATERPILLAR. See^<Aa-
lia.

BLACK FLY. Haltica nemorum.
This is only one of the several popular
names by which the turnip fly is known.
The gardener is not so liable to suffer
as is the farmer, from its ravages, yet
he is sufficiently open to them to ren-
der a knowledge of its habits desirable.
Mr. Curtis says : —

" The eggs of the common striped
turnip fly are laid on the under side of
the rough leaf of the turnip from Aprd
to September ; they hatch in two days.
Their maggots live between the two
skins or cuticles of the rough leaf, and
arrive at maturity in sixteen days. The
chrysalis is buried just beneath the sur-
face of the earth, where it remains
about a fortnight. The beetles live
through the winter in a torpid state,
and revive in the spring, when they de-
stroy ihe first two leaves, called the
cotyledonous or seed leaves of the
young turnip. There are five or s;x
broods in a season. These insects are
most to be feared in fine seasons.

" Heavy rains, cold springs, and long
droughts, destroy them. Their scent is
very perfect : the beetles fly against
the wind, and are attracted from a dis-
tance. The rapid growth of the plant
is the best security against them : to
secure which, sow plenty of seed all of
the same age. Burning the surface of
the land is beneficial, by destroying the

BL A

89

BLI

chrysnlids. Sheep folding must destroy other materials. The flavour is better,

the insect in every state. Deep diiijiing and decay is less liable to be induced,

is an excellent |)raciice, when the cliry- Lettuces and cabbages are usually

salids are in the soil. Drilliiitr is a tar whitened by tying the leaves over the

superior practice to sowing the seed heart or centre bud, but even in these

broadcast. Long raw manure harbours instances the blanching pot operates

the beetles. The benefit derived (Vom much more effectually. In remote

the application of lime and soot is very country i)Iaces blanching pots may not

doubtful. Mangold wurzel is not favour- be readily obtained ; an equally useful
able to the beetles, and Swedes are , aid is found by placing together two

probably less attractive than white tur- boards of a convenient length, so as to

nips. Mixing while turnips with Swedes form as it were two sides of a triangle,

18 not desirable, as the beetles may be or double pitched roof.

attracted by the strong scent of the for-
mer. Early sowing is attended with
disadvantages. Destroy charlock, it
affords support to the beetles before
the turnips come up."

The most effectual banisho^nt of the
turnip fly, I think, is securedT^f sowing

HLANDFORDIA. Two species.
Green-house herbaceous perennials.
Suckers or seeds. Sandy loam and
peat.

BLAST or BLIGHT, is the popular
name for any withering of plants of
which neither the scientific title nor the

the surface of the soil with gas lime causes are known to the observer. The

(liydro-sulphuret of lime) the next morn- mildew of corn ; the honey dew on

ing but one after the turnip seed has fruit trees; the withering occasioned

been sown. This is so offensive to the by violent cold winds in early spring,

insect as to drive it away just at the
time the young plants are appearing
above ground. The most certain pro
cess is, at\er all,tosow very thickly ; the
flies will have their share — if too many
remain, thin out.

BLACK VARNISH TREE. See
Melanorrhaa.

BLACKWELLIA. Six species.
Stove or evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
.Sandy peat.

BLADDER BLICHT. See Peach.

BLiF^RIA. Eleven species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy peat.

BLAKK.\. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Peat
and loam.

BLANCHING, or etiolation, is
effected by making plants grow in the
dark, and the more completely the light

and the ravages of the hawthorn cater-
pillar, are all spoken of by the unin-
formed under the above titles.

BLECHNUM. Thirteen species.
Stove or green-house herbaceous pe-
rennial ferns. B. serriilatum is hardy.
Seeds or division. Sandy loam and peat.

BLECHUM. Four species. Stove
herbaceous perennial ferns. Cuttings.
Loamy peat.

BLEEDING. See Eitravasated Sap.

BLEPHARIS. Five species. Stove
and green-house plants. B.furcata is
an evergreen shrub. IL procumbens an
evergreen trailer. Seeds. Loam and
peat.

BLEPIIILIA. Two species,
herbaceous perennials. Division
mon soil.

BLETIA. Eleven species,
orcbideous plants. Division.

is excluded the more entire is the ab- j peat and light loam

Hardy
. Com-

Stove
Sandy

sence of colour from the leaves and

stenvs of the plants. The colouring j evergreen tree

matter of these is entirely dependent peat

upon their power to decompose water

liUCUl A sapida. AkeeTree. Stove
Cuttings. Loam and

BLIND PLANTS frequently occur
and carbonic aciit gas, a power they do in the cabbage and others of the bras-
not possess when light is absent. The sica tribe. They are plants which have
effect of blanching is to render the parts failed to produce central buds, and as

more delicately flavoured, more ])ieas-
ing to the eye, and more crisp, proper-
ties very desirable in sea kale, celery.

these are produced from the central
vessels, if the top of their stems be cut
away, they usually emit lateral or side

rhubarb, endive, lettuces, &c. Wher- i buds from the edge of the wound. See

ever it can be accomplished, blanching
pots should be employed, in preference
to covering the plants with earth or

Barren Plants.

BLITE, or Strawberry Spinach. {Bli-
tum.)

B L I

90

BLO

BLITUM. Five species. Hardy
annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

BLOOD. See Animal Matters.

BLOOM or BLOSSOM, is the popu-
lar name for the flowers of fruit-bearing
plants.

" The organs of fructification are ab-
solutely necessary, and are always pro-
ducible by garden plants properly culti-
vated. They may be deficient in leaves,
or stems, or roots, because other or-
gans may supply their places; but
plants are never incapable of bearing
flowers and seeds, for without these
they can never fully attain the object
of their creation, the increase of their
species.

" Every flower is composed of one
or more of the following parts, viz. :
the calyx, which is usually green and
enveloping the flower whilst in the
bud ; the corolla, or petals, leaves so
beautifully coloured, and so delicate in
most flowers ; the stamens or male
portion of the flower, secreting the pol-
len or impregnating powder; the pistils
or female portion, impregnatable by
the pollen, and rendering fertile the
seeds; and lastly, the pericarp or seed-
vessel.

" The stamens are the only portion
of a flower which can be removed with-
out preventing the formation of fertile
seed, and their loss must be supplied
by the induction to the pistils of pollen
from some kindred flower.

" The calyx is not useless so soon
as it ceases to envelope and protect the
flower, for the nower stalk continues
increasing in size until the seed is per-
fected, but ceases to do so in those
plants whose calyces remain long green
if these be removed ; on the other
hand, in the poppy and other flowers,
from which the calyx falls early, the
flower stalk does not subsequently en-
large.

" The corolla or petals, with all their
varied tints and perfumes, have more
important oflices to perform than thus
to delight the senses of mankind. Those
bright colours and their perfumed honey
serve to attract insects, which are the
chief and often essential assistants of
impregnation ; and those petals, as ob-
served by LinuEus, serve as wings,
giving a motion assisting to eff"ect the
same important process. But they have
a still more essential oflice, for although
they are absent from some plants, yet

if removed from those possessing them
before impregnation is completed, the
fertilization never takes place. They
therefore perform in such cases an
essential part in the vegetable econo-
my ; and that they do so is testified by
all the phenomena they exhibit. They
turn to the sun open only when he has
a certain degree of power, and close
at the setting of that luminary ; their
secretions are usually more odorous,
more saccharine, and totally differing
from those of the other organs of plants ;
and in the absence of light those secre-
tions are not formed.

"The corolla is not always short-
lived, for although in some, as the
cistus, the petals which open with the
rising sun^ strew the border as it de-
parts, so some, far from being epheme-
ral, continue until the fruit is perfected.
The duration of the petals, however,
is intimately connected with the im-
pregnation of the seed, for in most
flowers they fade soon after this is com-
pleted ; and double flowers, in which
it occurs not at all, are always longer
enduring than single flowers of the
same species. Then, again, in some
flowers, they become green and per-
form the function of leaves after im-
pregnation has been effected. A fiimi-
liar example occurs in the Christmas
rose, (Helleborus niger,) the petals of
which are white, but which become
green so soon as the seeds have some-
what increased in size, and the stamens
and other organs connected with fer-
tility have fallen off.

" It is quite true that some fruit will
not ripen if the part of the branch be-
yond is denuiied of leaves, but this
only shows that those fruits cannot ad-
vance when deprived of leaves as well
as of calyx and corolla, the only organs
for elaborating the sap ; and there are
some flowers, as the Daphne mezereon,
Autumn crocus, and sloe, that have
their flowers perfected and passed
away before the leaves have even ap-
peared.

" That the petals perform an im-
portant part in elaborating the sap sup-
plied to the fruit is further proved by
the flower being unable to bloom or to
be fertile in an atmosphere deprived of
its oxygen; and by their absorbing more
of that gas, and evolving more car-
bonic acid, than even a larger surface
of leaves of the same plant.

B L U

91

BOM

" No seed ever attains the power of spotted form. Its caterpillar injures
germinating, unless the pollen from the the wood of the elm, apple, pear, horse-
stamens in the same, or some nearly al- chestnut and walnut,
lied flower, has reached and impregnated M. Kollar, in his valuable work on
its pistils." — Johnson's Princ. of Gard. predatory insects, says : — " The cater-

BLUMENliACFHA. Two species
Hardy annuals. Seeds. Rich loam.
BOBARTIA. Three species. Green

pillar of this niotli is smaller than that
of the preceding sjiecies, its length be-
ing only one inch and a half or two

house herbaceous perennials. D.auran- inches. It is hatched in August, moults
tiaca is hardy. Division. Sandy peat, for the first time in September, and is
BO(X()NIA. Two species. Stove ever- full grown in June of the following year.

green shrubs. Cuttinu.s. Loam

BCF:BERA. Two sjiecies
sanlhemoides is a hardy annual. B
cana, a green-house evergreen shrub.
Seeds. Loamy peat or common soil.

BOG-EARTH, or peat earth, is the
soil required for a class of plants that
are generally designated American,
though not all of them are natives ol

From its existence till its transforma-
B. chry- tion it is yellow, with raised shiny black
" ' dots, on each of which there is a fine
short hair.

" It undergoes its transformation in a
strong web under the bark, becoming
a brownish-yellow pupa, capable of
much extension, dark brown at both
extremities, with short wingsheaths.

156
2

110

that (piarter of the globe. Bog-earth j horn-like point bent forward on the

head, and fine hooks on the back of the
abdominal segments.

" The moth appears in August to-
wards evening, and is a native of almost
all Europe. It is very remirkable from
its colour; the ground is white on vari-
ous parts, on which steel blue dots are
scattered. It measures, with extended
wings, two inches and a half.

" The female introduces her round
orange-coloured eggs, by means of her
strong ovipositor, into the trees before
named."

B. bucephala. Buff-tip moth, produces
a caterpillar which feeds on the leaves
of the lime, beech, birch, alder, oak,
willow, and more rarely on those of the
rose, apple and pear. M. Kollar says:
— " This caterpillar does not appear till
the latter end of June or the beginning

of the best description is thus consti

luted : —

Kine siliceous sand . .

Unaltered vegetable fibre

Decomposing vegetable)

matter )

Silica (Flint) 103

Alumina (clay) IG

O.'iide of iron 4

Soluble vegetable and) .

saline matter J

Muriate of lime .... 4

Loss

BOG EARTH PLANTS. See Ameri-
can Plants.

BOLBOPHYLLUM. Nineteen spe-
cies. Stove epiphytes. Division. They
require a strong damp heat.

BOLDOA. Two species. Stove
jilants. B. lanceolata an evergreen

shrub. B. purpurescens an herbaceous ' of July, and feeils to the end of Septem-

perennial. Cuttings. Sandy peat

BOLEUM Asperum. Half hardy ever-
green shrub. Seed. Sandy peat.

BOLIVARIA trifida. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat

ber; when fully grown it measures
nearly two inches long, and is about as
thick as a goosecjuill. It is thinly haired,'
dark brown, with interrupted slender
yellow longitudinal stripes, which are
intersected by a yellow cross, and be-

BOLTONIA. Two species. Hardy her- tween each segment.

Division. Sandy

Four
Half

baceous perennials
loam.

BOiMBAX. Silk cotton tree,
species. Stove evergreen trees
ripened cuttings. Sandy loam.

BOM BYX, a gen us of moths, of which
the following are injurious to the gar-
dener.

B. asculi, the horse-chestnut, or wood

" The moth appears in May and June,
when it sits with its wings bent down-
wards, covering the whole body so that
it resembles a scroll. When its wings
arc expanded, it measures from two and
a half to three inches wide, the abdo-
men is pale yellow, spotted with black
on the sides. The upper wings are
notched, ash-grey, and silver-grey at

leopard moth, the last being the most the base and inner edge, a pale yellow,
appropriate name, as descriptive of its or silver grey kidney-shaped spot is

BOM

92

BOM

placed in the middle between two y el- i bark, and afterwards, when they are

low cross lines. The under wings are
of a yellowish-white ; and have near
the inner angle a greyish-brown and

stronger, penetrating into the wood.

" When we have actually ascertained
the existence of one of these creatures

often faint double stripe. As the cater- | in a trunk, by the extruded excrement,
pillars when they appear are gregarious,! relief comes too late for the tree, even
they can easily be destroyed by picking if we are able to kill the caterpillar, the

them off when young.'

B. cossus, Goat-moth. Its caterpillar
is most destructive to the wood of fruit
trees, though the elm, oak, willow,
poplar, and walnut also, are liable to
its attacks. M. Kollar says: — '-It is
one of the largest caterpillars known
in Europe, measuring more than four
inches in length. It is smooth and
shining, beset only here and there with

mischief being already done. Notwith-
standing this, the caterpillar should ne-
ver be left undisturbed, and an attempt
should be made to reach it, by enlarg-
ing the opening with a garden knife; or
endeavouring to kill it by thrusting a
piece of p'l.iited wire up the hole of the
tree."

B. dispar, Gipsy Moth. Its little
caterpillar is found in early spring on

single short hairs. It is dark red on ' the leaves of fruit trees, as they burst

the back, and the spiracles situated at
both sides are of the same colour. The
sides and lower part of the body are
flesh-coloured; the head is black, the
first segment also rnarked with black
above.

" After remaining more than two years
in the larvaj state, and casting its skin
eight times, the caterpillar becomes of
a light ochre yellow hue, shortly be-
fore pupation, which usually takes place
in spring ; when it makes a strong co-

from the bud. M. Kollar, to whose pages
I am so much indebted for accurate in-
formation relative to this species, says
that —

"In unfavourable weather they col-
lect upon the trunk near the top, or in
the forks of the branches, and enclose
themselves in a web ; but when they
feed, they disperse themselves all over
the tree. They are immediately dis-
tinguished from other caterpillars by
their large yellow-spotted head, and

coon of chips of wood and small pieces I by the six pairs of red dots on the
of bark, which it has gnawed off. The ' hinder part of the back,
abdomen of the pupa is yellow, and the I "The males are dark brown, and
segments are deeply indented and ca- their forevvings have three or four undu-
pable of much extension. The back is : lating blackish stripes. The females
furnished with strong pointed spines, [ are whitish-grey, and their (brewings
sometimes of a reddish-brown colour, are traversed by brownish stripes.
The cocoon is situated immediately
within the opening in the tree, so that
the pupa when arrived at maturity can
press itself half out of the hole when
the shell bursts, and the moth comes
forth usually in the month of June or
July, after having reposed in the pupa
state for an indefinite time. When at
rest the wings are folded together over
the back in the form of a roof; it sits
quietly in the daytime on the stems of
trees, and is difficult to be distinguished
on account of its grey colour. It mea-
sures with extended wings, from one
tip to the other, nearly three inches,
and many specimens are more than this;
the female is usually larger than the
male.

" The female is provided with a
strong ovipositor, with which she in-
troduces her eggs in the bark of the
tree, the young caterpillars living at
first in and between the outer and inner

The moth lays iier eggs in various
places in August and September, but
chiefly on the trunks of the fruit trees,
on which the caterpillars lived. It also
lays its eggs in places that are not very
near fruit trees, viz., on garden buildings,
palings and walls, so that the young
caterpillars have to go a considerable
distance in search of food, which is
seldom the case with insects. The
eggs lie in a shapeless mass one inch
long, and a quarter of an inch high, to
the number of two to five hundred
together, and are surrounded with yel-
lowish hair, which preserves them from
the winter's cold."

B. monacha, Black arch moth. Its
caterpillar prefers the leaves of the fir
tribe, but also attacks fiuit trees, the
oak, aspen, elm, lime, and willow. M.
Kollar states that — "The moth is of
the medium size. It sitsduring the day,
with its wings lying close to its body

BOM

93

♦ —

BOM

in a slanting direction ; and when its
wings are expanded, they measure
above two inches from one point to
the other. There are four or five black
notched lines on the upper wings, on a
white ground, and there is a black
spot between the middle ones. The

Its caterpillar usually confines its at-
tacks to the leaves of the white and
black thorn, but sometimes spreads to
our fruit trees. M. Kollar observes
that — " [n the day time it sits quietly
on a leaf, or on a wall, and suflers itself
to be caught in the h;ind. It has re-

front of the body is white, with black ceived its name from the posterior part

spots, and the abdomen varied with
black rings, and red incisions, which,
however, are sometimes wanting.

" The caterpillar, when fully grown,
measures from one and a half to one

of its body being covered with a round
mass of golden yellow hair. Its fore-
wings are of a dazzling whiteness, as
is also the greater part of its body ;
only the principal vein of the forewinu

and three-quarter inches, the transverse of the male is brown on the under side.

diameter one line and a half. It is
usually of a brown grey mixed with
black, and occasfonally entirely black;
sometimes, but still more rarely, it is
of a whitish colour. The head is large,
covered with short hairs, and it has a

and it has also sometimes a few black
dots on its wings.

" At the end of June this moth usu-
ally appears, seeks a companion, and
continues its species. The female
usually lays her eggs on the under side

brownish line alond the forehead, which of the leaf, in a small heap or mass,
ends in a triangular spot of the same and covers them with hair from her
colour over the mouth. Wherever it 1 tail. Hence, nothing is seen of the
goes it spins a thread after it out of the eggs, as they lie in rows under the
spinnerds under the mouth. If its rest- ' covering of hair. The number of eggs
ing-place be shaken, it hastily lets itself in the heap amounts to from two to three

hundred ; they arc round, and of a gold
colour; when the female has laid her
eggs she dies, after having applied all
the hair from her tail' to form the co-
vering. The caterpillars are usually
hatched at the end of July. They have
a dirty-yellow appearance, a black
head, and a black ring round the neck;
they are thickly covered with hair, and

down and curls itself up. It usually
goes into the pupa state from the begin-
ning of June to July, when the cater-
pillar is fully grown ; the pupa is sur-
rounded by a slight web, which is
sometimes formed among the foliage,
and sometimes over hollows of the
bark ; after which the caterpillar skin
is cast oft" in three or four days. The

pupa is three-quarters of an inch long; have four rows of blackish dots along
at first green, then a brownish red, and the back. They change their skins in
afterwards becomes somewhat darker, : August. In the middle of September
or rather blackish, with a metallic ap- , they cease feeding, and in October they

pearance.

only come out of their nest in very

The moth sometimes appears in ' warm days, when they lie on the out-
the last days of July or beginning of side, but return to the nest in the even-
August ; but the late ones do not appear ing. They become benumbed in No-
till September. Af\er pairing, the fe- i vember, and even in extreme cold they
male lays her eggs by means of her 1 only become benumbed, and resume
ovipositor, in the cracks of the bark of j their activity when warm weather sets
the old trees, in the form of a bunch of in. Before the buds on the trees have
firapes, to the amount of twenty or begun to burst in sprint', some of the
thirty in each cluster. As the oviposi- caterpillars come out of their nests and
tor cannot he used on the beach, oak, eat the folded leaves. In the course of
and birch, she lays her eggs on the bark, a few days they are found in multitudes
and (laps her wings over them, to cover at the forks of the branches in the side
thorn with the dust from her wings and of the tree exposed to the sun." — Kol-
body. One female usually lays one lar.

hundred and twenty eggs in the course B. caruleocepha/a. Figure-of-eight
of twenty-lour hours, at three or four moth. Its caterpillar selects the leaves
intervals. They are not spherical, but of the black and white thorn, almond,
flat on two sides, and very sharp and apricot, and peach, though it will attack

rough to the touch.

those of other trees. Kollar tells us

B. chrysorrhixa. Yellow-tailed moth. [ that — '• At the tune of pupation these

BOM

94

BOM

caterpillars repair to the stems of the | and oak most plentifully; elm very
trees, or to walls and hedges, where! plentifully; most fruit trees the same ;
they make for themselves cases of moss, blackthorn plentifully; rose-trees the

lime, dust, and small chips of wood
oval on the upper side and flat below,
in which they do not become pupa: till
the third week. The pupa small, cylin-
drical, reddish-brown, dull, in some
degree powdered with blue.

" The perfect insect or moth mea-
sures, with e.ftended wings, from tip to
tip, one inch and from six to nine lines.
The forewings bluish grey, rather shin-

same ; on the willow and poplar scarce.
None have been noticed on the elder,
walnut, ash, fir, or herbaceous plants.
With respect to fruit trees, the injuries
they sustain are most serious, as in
destroying the blossoms as yet in the
bud, they also destroy the fruit in em-
bryo ; the owners of orchards, there-
fore, have great reason to be alarmed.
" This moth is so closely related to

ing, divided by three incisions at the ! the yellow-tailed moth, and its habits

sides, and situated between two blackish
undulated cross lines, have been some-
times compared to a pair of spectacles
(or a figure of eight)."

B. luhricipeda. Spotted buff moth.
The caterpillars of this feed on the
leaves of elder, horse-radish, lilacs,

so similar, that the means suggested
for the destruction of the one may be
advantageously ai'opted for the other.

" In the month of June, when al-
most full grown, this caterpillar mea-
sures nearly two inches, and is of the
thickness of a very thick quill ; it is

beans, |uid indeed seem to be oninivo- | very juicy, of a yellowish-green colour,

with black tubercles, each of which
bears a single hair, and has three pale
yellow stripes, running longitudinally ;
the middle one extending rather broadly
along the back. It has a small bluish
head, with two black round spots on it.

" At the time of pupation, these cat-
erpillars repair to the stems of the
trees, or to w^lls and hedges, where
they make for themselves cases of
moss, lime-dust, and small chips of
wood, oval on the upper side, and flat
below, in which they do not become
pupae till the third week. The pupa is
small, cylindrical, reddish-brown, dull
in some degree, powdered with blue."
— Kollar.

B. antiqua, Vapourer, or brown tus-
sock moth. This moth appears from
August to October. Mr. Curtis informs
us that — " The males then fly about in
pursuit oftheir consorts, who are desti-

rous. The larva; appear in June and
July, and are thus described by Mr.
Curtis : —

"The back is dark green, and the
under side pale green, with a wavy
white line down each side, from the
head to the tail. The spiracles also
are white; the whole animal is covered
with little nist-coloured cushions, which
produce brushes of longish reddish-
brown hairs, so that it resembles a
little bear's skin. When full grown,
they retire to the stems of plants and
the chinks in walls, to change to black
shining chrysalids, in an oval loose
cocoon, composed of silk, and the hairs
from their skin.

" The moth rests with its wings de-
flexed ; is of a pale ochre, or buff
colour; the antenna are black, and
bipectinated in the male; the eyes,
palpi, and legs are also black, except-

ing the thighs, which are of an orange tute of wings, and afterdepositing alarge
colour, and the tibia and tarsi are va- number of eggs, fall down exhausted and
riegatfd with huff; the upper wings die. These eggs are somewhat ovate,
have two long black spots upon the i depressed, and hollow on the crown,
costal margin, with one or more dots
near the base, in a transverse line. As
the moths stick about plants and walls,
often in pairs, in May and June, they

round which is a brown ring. They
are of a pinky-white colour, and are
fastened as they are laid, by a gluti-
nous substance, to the bark of the tree,
are easily detected, and it becomes ' or whatever the parent happens to rest

necessary to kill them to prevent the
havoc they make with the foliage." —
Card. Chron.

B. phtEorrhaa. Brown-tailed moth.
M. Kollar states that — " According to
Curtis, the caterpillar of the brown-
tailed moth is found on the hawthorn

upon, frequently to the web containing
the shell of the pupa; they are hatched
the following April, when the larvae
attack a great variety of trees, feeding
upon the leaves of roses, brambles, the
apple, plum, sloe, hawthorn, oak, lime,
alder, and sallow. The caterpillars

BON

95

B 0 R

often do considerable mischief to the riance and beauty of his flowers. One

rose-trees, bv eating large holes in the pound of bone-dust mixed with twelve

leaves; and", keeping on the under ounces of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol),

sides, they are seldom visible until they and twelve ounces of water, if left to

are full-grown, when they are often an act upon each other for a day, form

inch in length, and ramble about to super-phosphate of lime, a wine-glass

select some suitable crevice in the bark
of a tree or other secure place to spin
their fine white silken web, strengthen-
ed and protected with the different
hairs from their own bodies ; in this
web they change to pitch colour, and
rather hairy chrysalides, from whence
the moths are produced at various pe-
riods."— Gard. Chron.

full of which has been found beneficial
to pelargoniums. Applied as a top-
dressing, mixed with half its weight of
charcoal dust, it is a good manure for
onions, and may be applied at the rate
of nine pounds to the square rod.
There is little doubt of this super-phos-
phate being good for all our kitchen-
garden crops, being more prompt in its

BON .\ P .\RT E A . Two species, effects upon a crop than simple bone-
Stove epiphytes. Seed. Rich sandy dust, because it is soluble in water, and

loam.

therefore more readily presented to the

BONATEA speciosa. Stove epiphyte. ! roots in a state for them to imbibe.

Division. Sandy peat and loam

BONES are beneficial as a manure,
because their chief constituent (phos-
phate of lime) is also a constituent of
all plants; and the gelatine which is
also in bones is of itself a source of food
to them. The bones of the ox, sheep,

BONNETIA palustris. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

B O N T I A daphnoides. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

BORAGE (Borago officinalis). Its
young leaves are sometimes used in
salads, or boiled as spinach. Being

horse, and pig, being those usually em- aromatic, its spikes of flowers are put
ployed, their analyses are here given: — into negus and cool tankards.

Ox Sheep Horse Fig Soil and Situation. — For the spring
and summer sowing, any light soil and
open situation may be allotted, provid-
ed the first is not particularly rich ; but
for those which have to withstand the

Phosph. of lime
Carb. of lime
Animal matter
The bones must

55 70

4 I 5
33 I 25
be applied to the ! winter, a light dry soil, and the shelter

crops in very small pieces or powder; of a south fence, is most suitable. A

and ten pounds at the time of insertin<:
the seed is enoug'ii for thirty square
yards, if sown broadcast ; and a much
smaller quantity is suthcient if sprinkled
along the drills in wiiich the seed is

very fertile soil renders it super-luxu-
riant, and injures the intensity of its
flavour.

Times and mode of sowing. — It is
propagated by seed, which is sown in

sown. There is no doubt that bone .March or April, and at the close of July,

dust may be employed with advantage
in all gardens and to all garden-crops,
but it has been experimented on most
extensively with tlie turnip and potato,
and with unfailing benefit. Mixed with
sulphur, and drilled in with the turnip
seed, it has been found to preserve the
young plants from the fly. Mr. Knight
found it beneficial when applied largely
to stone-fruit, at the time of planting :
and it is (|uite as good for the vine. To

for production in summer and autumn,
and again in August or September, for
the supply of winter, and succeeding-
spring. These sowings to be performed
in shallow drills, six inches asunder.
When of about six weeks' growth, the
plants are to be thinned to six inches
apart, and the plants thus removed of
the spring and autumn"sowing, may be
transplanted at a similar distance ; but
those ofthe summer seldom will endure

awns, the dust has been applied with the removal, and at all times those led
great advantage when the grass was unmoved prosper most. At the time of
becoming thin. As a manure for the transplanting, if at all dry weather, they
shrubbery, parterre, and green-house, must be occasionally watered mode-
it is also most valuable ; and crushed as rately until established: water must
well as ground, is employed generally also be frequently applied to the seed
to mix with the soil of potted plants, bed of the summer sowing, otherwise
Mr. Maund finds it promotes the luxu- j the vegetation will be slow and weak.

B OR

B OR

To obtain seed. — To save seed, some
of those plants which have survived the
winter must be left ungatliered from.
Tliey will begin to flower about June ;
and when their seed is perfectly ripe,
the stalks must be gathered, and dried
completely before it is rubbed out.

BORAGO. Six species. Hardy. Di-
vision or seed. Common soil.

BORASSUS flahellifnrmis. Stove
palm. Seed. Loam and peat.

BORBONIA. Nine species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

BORDER, is a name applied to that
narrow division of the garden which
usually accompanies each side of a
walk in the pleasure-grounds, and to
the narrow bed which is close to the
garden wall on one side, and abuts on a
walk on the other. The walls being
mostly occupied by fruit trees, the lat-
ter may be considered as the fruit-bor-
ders, and the first-named as the flower-
borders.

1. Fruit-bordeis. — Next to the wall
should be a path three feet wide, fori
the convenience of pruning and gather-
ing. Next to this path should be the
border, eight or nine feet wide; and
then the broad walk, which should al-
ways encompass the main compart-
ments ofthe kitchen garden. The whole
of the breadth from the wall to the edge
of this main walk should be excavated
to the depth of four feet ; the bottom of
the excavation rammed hard ; brickbats
and large stones then put in to the depth
of one foot and a half; and the remain-
ing two feet and a half filled up with
suitable soil. From the underdrainage
of brickbats, &c., draining pipes should
be laid, with an outfall into some neigh-
boring ditch. No fruit tree will be
healthy if it roots deep, or if its roots
are surrounded by superfluous water —
that is, more water than the soil will
retain by its own chemical and capil-
lary attractions. Shallow rooting crops
do no harm to the trees grown on fruit
borders sufficient to require their total
banishment.

2. Flower borders. — These, like the
preceding, and indeed like every other
part ofthe garden not devoted to aqua-
tic and marsh plants, should be well
drained. In plotting them it must also
be remembered, that if narrow, no art
will impart to them an aspect of bold-
ness and grandeur. Indeed narrowness

of surface is inseparably connected with
an impression that the grounds are of
limited extent, and no disposal of the
plants will remove the littleness thus
suggested. If the pleasure grounds are
small, narrow borders are permissible,
but even then the broader they are the
less is the appearance of meanness.
Neatness must be the presiding deity
over flower borders, and no application
ofthe hoe and rake, no removal of de-
cayed leaves, no tying up of straggling
members, can be too unremitting.

For the arrangement of the plants,
see Flowers; and for particular culti-
vation, each will be found under the
name ofthe plant.

BORECOLE, Brassica olerarea fim-
briata.

Varieties. — Of the following, 1, 2, 3.
5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 16, are the
best.

1. Brussels Borecole, or Sprouts.

2. Green Borecole, Brassica oleracea
selenisia.

3. Purple Borecole, B. oleracea laci-
niata.

4. Variegated Borecole.

5. German or Curled Kale, or Cur-
lies.

[ 6. Scotch or Siberian Kale, B. o.
' sabdlica.

7. Chou de Milan.

8. Egyptian or Rabi Kale.

9. Ragged Jack.

I 10. Jerusalem Kale.

11. Buda-Russian, or Manchester
Kale.

12. Anjou Kale.

13. One-thousand-headed cabbage.

14. Palm Borecole.

15. Portugal or large ribbed.

16. Woburn perennial.

j Woburn kale may be propagated by
cuttings, six inches long, planted where
to remain in March or April.

Buda kale is greatly improved by
blanching under a pot, like sea kale.

Sowing. — The first crop sow about
j the end of March, or early in April, the
seedlings of which are fit for pricking
out towards the end of April, and for
final planting at the close of May, for
production late in autumn and com-
mencement of winter. The sowing
must be repeated about the middle of
May; for final planting, during July,
and lastly in August, for use during
winter and early spring.

Pricking out, — Their fitness for

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97

B OT

pricking out is when their leaves are
about two inches in breadth ; they must
be set six inclies apart each way, and
watered frequently until established.
In four or five weeks tiiey will be of
sufficient growth for final removal.

Planting. — When planted, they must
be set in rows two feet and a half apart
each way, the last plantation may be
six inches closer. They must be wa-
tered and weeded, and as they are of
large spreading growth, the earth can
only be drawn about their stems during
their early growth. If during stormy
weather any of those which acquire a
tall growth are blown down, they must
be supported by stakes, when they will
soon firmly re-establish themselves.

To raise seed. — For the production of
seed, such plants of each variety as are '
of the finest growth must be selected,
and either left where grown or removed I
during open weather in November, or
before the close of February, the earlier
the better, into rows three feet apart i
each way, and buried down to their
heads. The seed ripens about the be-
ginning of August. I

BORONIA. Twelve species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy peat.

BORRERIA. Three species. Stove
or green-house. Cuttings. Common
soil.

BOSCI.V senegalensis. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Rich clayey
loam.

BOSFiA yervamora. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

BOSTRICHUS, a class of beetles,
many of which arc very injurious to the
crops of the garden.

B. dispar, Apple bark beetle. The
female of this insect bores into the
wood of the apple tree, and there depo-
sits her eggs, generally in the month of
May ; and its perforations are so nume-
rous and extensive, as frequently, on the
continent, to destroy the tree. In Eng-
land it rarely occurs. The perforations
are confined to the alburnum of the
wood.

B. typographus. Typographer bark
beetle. This attacks the pine tribe,
especially the silver fir.

B. pinaslri, Pinaster, or red bark

beetle, confines its attacks to the pines,

leaving the firs untouched, as the B.

larius lives exclusively on the larch,

7

and the B. orthogi-aphus on the spruce
fir.

BOSWELLIA, Alibanum tree. Two
species. Stove evergreen trees. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

BOTANY BAY TREE, Smilax gly-
cyphylla.

BOTRYCHIUM, Moonwort. Six spe-
cies. Hardy ferns. Division, or seed.
Loam and peat.

BOTTOM HEAT. Naturally the
temperature of the soil always bears a
due relative proportion to that of the
air. When the temperature of the air
decreases, that of the soil also de-
creases, but very slowly ; and when the
atmospheric heat increases, that of the
soil also gradually rises. Bottom heat,
or heat applied below the roots of
plants, is the artificial mode of imitating
this proceeding of nature in our hot-
houses, and other structures of that
kind. If the temperature of the soil be
too cold in proportion to the temperature
of the atmosphere, the roots are not
stimulated sufficiently to imbibe food as
fast as it is required by the branches
and foliage, and as a consequence the
leaves or fruit will fall or wither. On
the otherhand,if the temperature of the
soil be too great in proportion to that
of the atmosphere, the roots absorb food
faster than it can be elaborated by the
branches and leaves, and as a conse-
quence, over luxuriant shoots, and an
extra development ofleaves, are caused
instead of blossoms, and a healthy pro-
gress in all the parts.

Every plant obviously will have a
particular bottom heat most congenial
to it. Plants growing in open plains,
as at the Cape of Good Hope, will re-
quire a higher bottom heat than those
growing in the shade of the South Ame-
rican forests, though the temperature of
the air out of the shade niay be the same
in each country. That gardener will
succeed in exotic plant-culture best,
who among his other knowledge has
ascertained the relative temperature of
the air and soil in which any given plant
grows naturally. At present, such in-
formation from actual observation is
not obtainable, but it is not so difiicult
to ascertain the maximum and minimum
temperature of the air of a country ;
and this being obtained, the gardener
may adopt this as a safe rule. Let the
bottom heat for plants of that country
be always 5* higher than the average

BOU

98

B RE

temperature, or if the average maximum < for insects ; it should not be allowed to
temperature of the air olily be known,! rise higher than six or eight inches, and
let the bottom heat be less by 10° than ; as much in breadth — if necessary to re-
the maximum temperature of the air. | strain its growth, transplant. The best

Dr. Lindley very justly observes upon seasons for planting box are at mid-
this subject, that " we have doubtless summer, and early in the spring. Small
much to learn as to the proper manner rooted slips are employed, and are
of applying bottom heat to plants, and planted against the perpendicular side
as to the amount they will bear under ' of a small trench along the edge of the
particular circumstances. It is in par- border or bed they are desired to bound,
ticular probable, that in hot-houses The best month for clipping box is
plants will not bear the same quantity • June, and it should be done in showery
of bottom heat as they receive in na- j weather.

ture, because we cannot give them the ' BllABEJUM s<eZ/a?«m. Green-house
same amount of light and atmospheric [ evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings. Sandy
warmth ; and it is necessary that we j loam and peat.

should ascertain experimentally whether \ BRACHYCOME '/6erzrf//"oZza. "Seeds
it is not a certain proportion between ' of this," says Dr. Lindley," should be
the heat of the air and earth that we sown in March in pots or shallow pans,
must secure, rather than any absolute ! filled with light rich soil, and well
amount of bottom heat. I drained, and the pots should be plunged

"It may also be, indeed it no doubt is, , in a gentle hot-bed. As soon as the
requisite to apply a very high degree of< young plants are established, they must
heat to some kinds of plants at particu- j be kept in a green-house : shilt into
lar seasons, although a very much lower : larger pots as they require it. Those
amount is suitable afterwards ; a remark i that are to be grown out of doors should
that is chiefly applicable to the natives i be planted out in a prepared bed early,
of what are called extreme climates, ' say by the end of May, in order that
that is to say, where a very high sum- i they may perfect their seeds in Sep-
mer temperature is followed by a very , tember or early in October." — Gard.
low winter temperature ; such countries | Chron.

are Persia, and many parts of the United 1 BllACHYL^NA nereifoUa. Green-
States, where the summers are exces- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy
sively hot, and the winter's cold intense. ' peat.

The seeming impossibility of imitating | BRACHYSEMA. Two species,
such conditions artificially, will proba- Green-house evergreen climbers. Lay-
bly account for many of the difficulties j ers, cuttings, or seeds. Sandy loam
we experience in bringing certain fruits, and peat.

the Newtown pippin, the cherry, the \ BRACHYSTELMA. Two species,
grape, the peach, and the almond, to i Stove tuberous-rooted perennials. Cut-
the perfection they acquire in other : tings. Sandy loam.
counXnes.'->— Theory of Horticulture. \ BRASSAVOLA. Twelve species.

BOURGEON, or Burgeon. See Bud. \ gtove epiphytes. Division. Wood.

nrMTT^nt-nTA Two Species. Stove, r,DiccTA v\ ■ • Cf

'^ - ' BRASSIA. Eleven species. Stove

epiphytes. Division. Wood.

BRASSICA. The cabbage tribe. See

BOURRERIA

evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandv loam.

BOUSSINGAULTIA baselloides.—
Half-hardy bulbous perennial. Seeds.
Common soil.

BOUVARDIA. Five species. Green-
house or stove evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings or division. Loam and peat.

BOWER. See Arbor.

BOX {Buxus sempervirens), is noticed

Brocoli, Cauliflower , S,-c.

BRAYA. Two species. B. alpina.
a hardy herbaceous perennial ; B.pilosa.
a hardy evergreen shrub. Seeds. Loamy
peat.

BREAKING. A Tulip's flower is

by the gardener chiefly as a plant suita- j broken when it has attained its perma-
ble for edgings. For this purpose it is [ nent colors. A bulbous root is said to
neat, and certainly the best article used. 1 ormA; when its foliage begins to be
In some gardens it is suffered to attain 1 thrust forth.

too great bulk, and then becomes rather
a defect than ornament, exhausting the
soil, and presenting a safe lurking place

BREMONTIERA ammoxylon. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam.
BRESIA. Three species. Stove

BRI

99

BRI

evergreen trees. Cuttings. Turfy loam i
and peat.

BRICKS. As the gardener often
may require to know how many bricks
will be required for an intended struc-
ture, it will be a guide for him to know
that all bricks sold in England are re-
quired by statute (17 Oeo. 3, c. 42) to
be eight and a half inches long, four
inches wide, and two and a half inches
thick. Pantiles, by the same authority,
must be thirteen and a half inches- long,
nine and a half inches wide, and half
an inch thick.

BRIDGES* are inconsistent with tlie
nature of a lake, but characteristic of a
river ; they are on that account used in
landscape gardening to disguise a ter-
mination ; but the deception has been
so often practised, that it no longer de-
ceives, and a bolder aim at the same
effect will now be more successful. If
the end can be turned just out of sight,
a bridge at some distance raises a belief,
while the water beyond it removes
every doubt, of the continuation of the
river; the supposition immediately oc-
curs, that if a disguise had been in-
tended, the bridge would have been
placed further back, and the disregard
tluis shown to one deception gains credit
for the otffer.

As a bridge is not a mere appendage
to a river, but a kind of property which
denotes its character, the connexion
between them must be attended to ;
from the want of it, the single wooden
arch once much in fashion, seemed
generally misplaced ; elevated without
occasion so much above it, it was to-
tally detached from the river ; and often
seen straddling in the air, without a
glimpse of the water to account for it,
and the ostentation of it as an orna-
mental object diverted all that train of
ideas which its use as a communication
might suggest. The vastness of Walton
Bridge cannot without alfectation be
mimicked in a garden where the mag-
nificent idea of inducting the Thames
under one arch is wanting ; and where
the structure itself, reduced to a narrow
scale, retains no pretension to great-
ness. Unless the situation make such a
height necessary, or the point of view
be greatly above it, or wood or rising
ground instead of sky behind it fdl up
the vacancy of the arch, it seems an
effort without a cause, forced and pre-
posterous.

The vulgar footbridge of planks, only
guarded on one hand by a common rail,
and supported by a few ordinary piles,
is often more proper. It is perfect as a
communication, because it pretends to
nothing further, it is the utmost sim-
plicity of cultivated nature; and if the
banks from which it starts be of a mode-
rate height, its elevation preserves it
from meanness.

No other species so effectually cha-
racterizes a river ; it seems too plain for
an ornament, too obscure for a disguise ;
it must be for use, it can be a passage
only ; it is therefore spoiled if adorned,
it is disfigured if only painted of any
other than a dusky colour. But being
thus incapable of all decoration and im-
portance, it is often too humble for a
great, and too simple for an elegant
scene. A stone bridge is generally
more suitable to either, but in that also
an extraordinary elevation compepsates
for the distance at which it leaves the
water below.

A gentle rise and easy sweep more
closely preserve the relation ; a certain
degree of union should also be formed
between the banks and the bridge, that
it may seem to rise out of the banks,
not barely to be imposed upon them ; it
ought not generally to swell much
above their level, the parapet wall
should be brought down near to the
ground, or end against some swell, and
the size and tlie uniformity of the abut-
ments should be broken by hillocks or
thickets about them ; every expedient
should be used to mark the connexion
of the building, both with the ground
from which it starts, and the water
which it crosses. '

In wild and romantic scenes may be
introduced a ruined stone bridge, of
which some arches may be still stand-
ing, and the loss of those which are
fallen may be supplied by a few planks,
with a rail thrown over the vacancy. It
is a picturesque object, it suits the situ-
ation and the antitjuity of the passage;
tiie care taken to keep it still open,
though the original building is decayed,
the apparent necessity which thence re-
sults lor a communication, give it an
imposing air of reality. — Whateley.

BRINING. See Steeping.

BROADCAST, is a mode of sowing
now rapidly falling into disuse in the
garden as well as in the field. It has
no one advantage over sowing in drills.

B RO

100

B RO

except that the work of sowing is done
more expeditiously. Subsequently, the
saving is all on the side of the drill sys-

case choose a spot shaded from the
mid-day sun, and cover the bed with
straw litter, lightly spread over the siir-

tem. See Drilling. I know of no , face, which suifer to remain until the
sowing where the broadcast mode is 1 seeds sprout, when it should be imme-
preferable, except in the case of grass 1 diately removed. Bass mats or cloths

seeds upon lawns. Loudon thus do
scribes the operation of broadcast sow-
ing:— "The seed is taken up in por-
tions in the hand, and dispersed by a
horizontal movement of the arm to the
extent of a semicircle, opening the hand
at the same time, and scattering the

are sometimes used for this purpose;
they should be removed every evening,
and replaced in the morning, etse the
seed loses the benefit of the dew.

" A few observations only are neces-
sary as to the progressive culture of
the l)roccoli. Having, in the first place,

seeds in the air, so as they may fall as , selected a deeply dug, rich piece of
equally as possible over the breadth ; ground, and planted them therein as
taken in by the sower at once, and ' you would cabbage plants, allowing
which is generally six feet, that being them rather more room, do not neglect
the diameter of the circle in which his to hoe and stir the ground, keeping it
hand moves through half the circum- i perfectly clean and free from weeds;
ference. In sowing broadcast on the \ when they are six or eight inches high,
surface of his beds, and in narrow strips land them up, that is, with the hoe

or borders, the seeds are dispersed
between the thumb and fingers by hori-
zontal movements of the hand in seg-
ments of smaller circles."

BROCCOLI. The same in Eng., Fr.,

draw around the base of the plants
some of the loose soil, forming it like a
basin, the stock of the plant being the
centre. If dry weather ensue, give an
occasional watering, which will greatly

and Ital. Italienische Kohl, Ger. Bro- , facilitate their growth.
culi. Span. " This exquisite vegetable j " The earlier sowings will commence
resembles the cauliflower in growth, ap- 1 heading early in the autumn ; the latter
pearance, and flavour, and is supposed sown plants, many of them will show no
to have originated from it. Some of the appearance of heading before winter,
varieties produce white heads, others On the approach of black fro^ they are

purple, sulphur coloured, &c. It is cul-
tivated with less trouble than the cauli-
flower, and heads with more certainty.
The autumn is the season in which it is
generally perfected, but with proper
management may frequently be had
throughout the winter and spring.

" The varieties are extensive, and
differ in the time of ripening, as well as
hardiness. Those we have cultivated
with most success are the purple cape

to be removed to some sheltered situa-
tion, and " laid in," after the manner of
winter cabbage ; that is, burying the
stalk entirely up to the lower leaves,
the crown projecting at an angle of
45 degrees. Thny are more tender
than the cabbage, and require to be
protected against severe frost, which
may readily be done by setting over
them frames, such as are placed on hot-
beds, and cover with shutters, or by

sulphur coloured, and early cauliflower : setting boards on edge around them, the

broccoli. There are also several other
autumnal kinds, such as the green cape,
early purple, early white, cream-co-
loured, or Portsmouth, &c. ; but the
purple cape is much the most certain
to head, indeed the only one to be re-

back the highest, on which lay a cover-
ing of boards similar to a roof. Thus
they are sheltered from frost, and undue
quantities of rain. As the winter ad-
vances, and the frost becomes more se-
vere, give an additional covering, of

lied on in this climate. Our plan of, straw scattered loosely immediately
cultivation has been, to sow the seed , over the plants inside the board cover-
from the middle to latter end of spring; j ing. In this situation they will remain
transplanting them when they attain the I secure, some of them heading from time
size at which cabbage plants are gene- j to time during the winter, and most of

rally put out.

them_ producing fine heads in spring.

"Should the weather prove very dry | Care should be observed to remove the
at tbfi periods in which it is proper to I straw covering on the arrival of spring,
BOW, some difliculty may be found in and to raise the shutters or boards in
getting the seed to vegetate ; in that ! fine weather, that air may be freely ad-

BRO

101

BRU

mitted, removing them entirely the lat-
ter part of March.

BROTERA, corymhosa. Hardy herb-
aceous perennial. Division. Loam and

It is the practice of some who have peat
light dry cellars, to place them therein, BROUGHTONIA. Two species,
when removing them in the autumn, Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood,
burying the roots and stalks as above BROUSSONETIA. Two species,
directed. In that situation they re- Hardy deciduous trees. Cuttings. Light
quire no further care or protection, open soil.

Broccoli is someiimes sown about the BROWALLIA. Four species. Green-
middle of September, the plants pre- house annuals. Seeds. Rather sandy
served in frames during winter, and put soil.

BROWNEA. Five species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

BROWXLOWIA elata. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Sandy loamy
soil.

BRUCHUS, a genus of beetles.

B. graiiarius and B. pisi are greatly

destructive to our pea crops. They are

small brownish beetles, usually found

at the same time the plants are in flower,

out in the spring. They are by no
means certain to succeed well at that
season ; a few nevertheless might be
thus managed, as they will generally
head in the autumn, when tailing to do
so during the summer months.

"All the Brassica or Cabbage tribe is
subject to be preyed upon by various
insects, the most destructive of which
in this country is the ' Black Fly'
(Ilaltica nemorum) ; and in such im-
mense quantities do they sometimes and they deposit their eggs in the ten-
appear, and so voracious their appetite, der seeds of leguminous plants, and
that extreme difficulty is found in pro- sometimes in different kinds of corn,
tecting the young plants from their In these the larva, a small white lieshy
depredations. As soon as they appear. , grub, tinds both a suitable habitation
take wood ashes, mixed with one-third j and an abundance of food. It under-
air-slaked lime, and sprinkle over the goes all its transformations in the seed,
entire plants, first wetting the leaves j and the perfect insect remains in it till
that the dust may adhere ; this should i the spring, though in fine autumns the
be repeated as often as it flies ofl^, or is perfect insects appear at that season
washed olf by rain. An application of] also. The larva; possess the singular
lime water is also beneficial ; it is disa- instinct of never attacking the vital part
preeable to the fly as well as the slug ; j of the seed till the last,
the latter insect preys much upon them | We have often observed the seed
in damp weather. But the most certain \ pods of chorozema, and other delicate
preventive is a solution of whale-oil ' and scarce leguminous plants in green-
soap — a solution of common soft-soap houses, pierced by the Brnchus pisi.
or brown-soap, would probably answer i The more effectual remedy is to pull
the purpose; the alkali therein is par- i up and burn the haulm and pods alto-
ticularly offensive to that troublesome gether, and not attempt to get a crop

intruder." — Rural Register
BRODL^EA. Two species

B. con-

at all. Peas infested with B. granarius,
are always known by a small hole being

g:e.s/rt, green-house ; B. grandiflora, half! on one side, and these should be care-
hardy bulbous peren'nials. Offsets, fully picked out, as they not only spoij

Sandy peat.

the appearance of a sample, but spread

BllOMELIA. Fifteen species. Chiefly the injury
Btove herbaceous perennials. B. disco- BRUGMANSIA. Four species.
lor is an evergreen shrub; B. exudans. Green-house evergreen shrubs. B. Way-
an epiphvte. Suckers. Rich loamy soil. 7?innu' is a stove evergreen tree. Cut-

BROMHEADIA pa/us^r/s. Stove epi-
phyte. Offsets. Peat and potsherds.

BRONGNIARTIA, podalyrioides.
Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

BiioOM. See Besom.

BROSIMUM. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loamy
soil.

tings. Rich soil

BRUISE. See Canker.

BRUNIA. Eighteen species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy peat.

RRUNNICHIAc/rr/iosa. Green-house
evergreen climber. Cuttings. Loamy
soil.

BRUNONIA australis. Hardy herb-

B RU

J02

BUD

aceous perennial. Division. Loamy [ than if the buds were left upon the pa-
soil. A frame or cool green-house is : rent. Delicate kinds are strenj^thened

suited for its growth

B R U N S F E L S I A
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttin^
rich soil.

BRUNSVIGIA. Thirteen species.
Green-house bulbous perennials. Off-
sets. Rich mould.

by being worked, as it is technically
Four species, termed, upon more robust stocks, as
Good I when a tender vine is budded on the
Syrian, and the double yellow rose upon
the common China. Variegated roses
often lose their distinctive marks if
grown upon their own roots. Roses

The bulbs, while dormant, which is j budded npon the common brier afford
during winter, are kept in a cool green- finer flowers than upon their own stems,
house, in as dry and airy a place as ' Buds from seedling peaches and pears
possible, until they begin to show leaves; are earlier productive — and produce
then to be potted in three parts good finer fruit — budded upon a robust
turfy loam, one part leaf-mould and j stock ; but buds of the pear inserted
a little silver sand, and placed so that i earlier than the close of August, pro-
they have the full benefit of the light. ! duce branches and not blossoms. Where

When the leaves have grown to about the bud comes in contact with the wood
twelve inches in length, plunge in a | of the stock, a confused line is visible,
strong bottom heat, and allow to remain [ between which line and the bark of the
till the flower-stem pushes clear of the I bud new wood is produced, having
leaves, which will be in about four or I solely all the characteristics of the pa-
five weeks. They must then be gra- 1 rent of the bud. Buds of almost every
dually hardened off and returned to the ! species succeed with most certainty if
green-house, there to expand their bios- ; inserted in shoots of the same year's

soms, which consist of a number of from
twenty to thirty flowers.

After flowering, every care must be
taken of the foliage, by exposing it to
the full influence ofthesuB,and giving
plenty of water.

When the plants show an inclination
to rest, water must be altogether with-
held.

BRYA. Two species. Stove ever-
green shrubs. Cuttings or seed. Very
rich soil.

BRYOPHYLLUM calicinum. Stove
evergreen shrub. ~ Leaves. Rich loamy
soil.

BUCIDA buceras. Stove evergreen
tree. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat.

BUDS. The buds are organized parts
of a plant, of an ovate or conical form,
and containing the rudiments of future

growth : but the small walnut buds suc-
ceed best which are taken from the base
of the annual shoots, where these join
the year old wood of that from which
the bud is taken. Buds are usually two
years later than grafts in producing
fruit, but then every bud will produce a
new plant, but each graft has at least
three upon it. Buds succeed more rea-
dily than grafts, and if a graft inserted
in the spring has failed, a bud may suc-
ceed in the summer of the same year.
Buds are ready for removal when their
shield, or bark attached to them, sepa-
rates readily from the wood. This is
usually in July or August, and is inti-
mated by the buds being well developed
in the axillae of the presentyear's leaves.
Scallop-budding may be done almost at
anv season. Buds should be taken from

branches, leaves, and flowers, which ! the middle of the shoot ; those from its
remain latent until circumstances favour | point are said to make wood too freely,
their development. The same buds ac- and those from the base to be more un-
cordingly, as circumstances vary, pro- excitable, and consequently less prompt
duce either flowers or leaves. Buds to vegetate.

spring from the alburnum, to which Stocks for budding may be much
they are always connected by central smaller than for grafting, even on the

vessels.

BUDDING is the art of making a bud
unite to the stem or branch (then called
the stock) of another tree or shrub, in-
dependently from its parent. The ob-

same year's shoot. Several buds may
be inserted on older branches, and thus
a good head be obtained at once. On
stocks of long standing, scallop-bud-
ding is to be adopted. Just after rain,

ject thus attained is a rapid multiplica- and when there is no violent wind, is a
tion of that parent ; and in the case of! time to be preferred for budding. What-
seedlings, an earlier production of fruit ever mode of budding is adopted, quick-

BUD

103

BUD

ness in the operation is indispensable,
for if the wound in the stock or that of
the bud becomes dry, the buddiiHr will
fail. The bark of the stock should be
cut and raised first, and if possible on
its north side. A piece of moist bass

the bnd is preparinjr, and the moment
this is done, it sliould be inserted, and
the ligature put on furthwith.

There are twenty-three modes of
budding described by M. Thouin, but
only one — shield-budding, (Fig. 22) — is

may be twisted over the wound whilst I generally practised in Great Britain and

Fig. 22.

the United States. The annexed cut will
convey a tolerably clear idea of the pro-
cess ; a is the stock or tree to bebudded.
Shield-budding and Scallop-budding : —
" With the budding-knife make a hori-
zontal cut across the rind, quite through
to the firm wood at b ; from the middle
of this transverse cut make a slit down-
ward perpendicularly, an inch or more
long, going also quite through to the
wood. This done, proceed with all
expedition to take off a bud, holding
the cutting or scion in one hand with
the thickest end outward, and with the
knife in the other hand enter it about
half an inch or more below a bud, cut-
ting near halfway into the wood of the
shoot, continuing it with one clean
slanting cut about half an inch or more
above the bud, so deep as to take off
part of the wood along with it, the
whole about an inch and a half long,
represented by c ; then directly with
the thumb and finger, or point of the
knife, slip off the v/oody part remain-
ing to the bud ; which done, observe
whether the eye or gem of the bud
remains perfect; if not, and a little
hole appears, in that part it is imperfect
or, as gardeners express it, the bud has
lost its root and another must be pre-
pared. If, however, it is found imprac-

ticable to remove this woody part with-
out leaving a hole, let it remain, it ia
not absolutely objectionable. When the
bud has been thus prepared, slip it down
between the wood and bark to the bot-
tom of the slit ; the next operation is to
cut off the top part of the shield, even
with the horizontal first-made cut, in
order to let it completely into its place,
and to join exactly the upper edge of
the shield with the transverse cut, that
the descending sap may immediately
enter the bark of the shield, and pro-
trude granulated matter between it and
the wood, so as to effect a living union.
The parts are now to be immediately
bound round with a ligament of fresh
bass, previously soaked in water to
rendf-r it pliable and tough, beginning
a little below the bottom of the perpen-
dicular slit, proceeding upwards closely
round every part except just over the
eye of the bud, and continuing it a little
above the horizontal cut, not too tight,
but just sufficient to keep the whole
close, and exclude the air, sun, and wet,
as represented at d. If the stock and
bud are both in fit condition, budding is
usually performed with uniform suc-
cess : it is a simple mechanical opera-
tion, and those accustomed to the work
execute it with great rapidity ; an ac-

BUD

104

BUD

tive nursery-hand will readily insert
1000 buds in a day. In most of the New
Jersey nurseries boys are employed for
budding peaches, and by much practice
become perfect adepts at it. The mode
just described is called shield or T
budding, from the shield-like form of
the portion of bark containing the bud
to be inserted, and the resemblance
which the horizontal and perpendicular
cuts made for its admission into the
stock, bear to the two principal bars of
the letter T.

" In selecting buds, those that are
very young should be avoided; for in
that case they are closely connected
with the greenish substance composing

the bud had attached itself, the ligature
last applied was taken off, but the other
was sufi'ered to remain. The passage
of the sap upwards was in consequence
much obstructed, and buds inserted in
June began to vegetate strongly in July.
When these had afforded shoots about
four inches long, the remaining ligature
was taken off to permit the excess of
sap to pass on, and the young shoots
were nailed to the wall. Being there
properly exposed to light, their wood
ripened well and afforded blossoms in
the succeeding spring."

In the fii-t week of July the thorns
should be removed from those places
on the stocks intended for budding

the pith at the tender age of the shoot I roses. If they be not taken away,
producing tiiem ; and on this substance the operation is rendered needlessly
they then doubtless too much depend [ troublesome; and it is best done then,

for nourishment to be safely deprived
of it.

" It is a sign that they are duly con-
stituted when they begin to emit woody
substance; and this will form a crite-
rion of their fitness to shift for them-
selves.

" Buds taken from fruit-bearing trees
on walls are apt to fall, owing to the
prevalence of blossom-buds which will
not produce shoots.

" Scallop-budding consists in paring
a thin tongue-shaped section of bark

as time is thus allowed for the bark's
healing. The best time for budding the
rose is towards the end of that month ;
a dormant eye being employed just after
a fall of rain, and when no strong dry
wind is moving. An attention to these
circumstances ensures that the sap is
flowing freely, and avoids a rapid eva-
poration so often preventing success.
Moist bass is usually employed for clos-
ing the wound of the stock, but it is far
preferable to use worsted, and over this
a coating of the grai'ting wax, made ac-

from the side of the stock ; and in tak- j cording to the following recipe: —

ing a similar section or shield from the
shoot of buds, in neither case removing
the wood. The section or shield con-
taining the bud, is then laid on the cor-
responding scallop in the stock ; its
upper edge exactly fitted as in shield-
budding, and at least one of its edges as
in whip-grafting — after this it is tied in
the usual way. The advantages of this
mode are, that it can be performed
when the wood and bark do not sepa-
rate freely ; on trees having very stiff,
thick, suberose bark, and at any season
of the year. Its disadvantages are, that
it requires longer time to perform the
operation, and is less certain of suc-
cess."

" Mr. Knight was accustomed on
some occasions to employ two distinct
ligatures to hold the bud of his peach

1

Burgundy pitch .... 1 oz.

Common pitch .... 4

Yellow wax 4

Tallow 2

Nitre (carbonate of)
potash) powdered . J

These must be melted slowly in an .
earthen pipkin, and applied whilst
warm. Common diachylon sold in
rolls by chemists answers as well as
the above. A laurel leaf fastened at
each end by a ligature round the stock,
so as to arch over the bud, will com-
plete the arrangement, and thus the
sun's rays, the air, and wet, will be
most effectually excluded, the admit-
tance of any one of which are fatal to
the union of the bud with the stock.

The great point is to apply the liga-
ture firmly without cutting the bark,

trees in its place. One was first placed and to relax and re-tie it, when, after
above the bud inserted, and upon the | some time, the bark shall be found
transverse section through the bark ; i swelling a little over it. It is not de-
the other, which had no further office sirable to remove the ligature finally,
than that of securing the bud, was em- until, from the greenness and plump-
ployed in the usual way. As soon as | ness of the bud, and the slight swelling

BUD

105

B U L

which takes place in it, evidence is sending out fibres from the base, and
had that the operation has succeeded. | so converting itself into a new indi-
VVithin a fortnight after the bud has I vidual. Every bulbous-rooted plant
been inserted, its fresh swelling aspect ] has some peculiar point in its manage-
•will intimate if it has united to the I ment, but there are a few rules of
stock. At the end of the third week, general applicability. They should
if bass or worsted have been used as never be moved except whilst in a
ligatures, these must be loosened, and state of rest ; this occurs to the sum-
in about ten days more removed. Very mer-flowering bulbs in autumn, and to
early in the spring following, the heads the autumn-flowering in early summer,
of the stocks must be removed by an ' They require to be taken up annually,
oblique cut terminating about one- : or at farthest every second or third
eighth of an inch above the shield of- year, to remove the accumulated off-
the bud, or six inches of the stock may | sets. No bulb should be kept out of
be left for the Tfirst year, to which to the ground for more than a month, and

fasten the shoot as a support.

BUDDLEA. Twelve species. Stove
or green-house evergreen shrubs. B.
globosa is hardy. Layers or cuttings.
Loam and peat.

BUFF-TIP MOTH. See Bombyx.

BUGINVILL.T:A spectabUis. Stove

even during that time it is desirable to
keep it from drying by burying it in
sand.

" Some bulbs," says Mr. Loudon,
" multiply so fast by throwing out off-
sets, that they soon cease to send up
flower stems. Of these may be men-
tioned the Ornithosalum umhellatum

evergreen climber. Cuttings. Loamy /u^eum, and some other species ; some

soil

BUGLE. See Ajuga.

BUISSON, is a fruit tree on a very
low stem, and with a head closely
pruned.

BULBINE. Twenty-one species.
Chiefly green-house herbaceous peren-
nials. B. frutescens, B. rostrata, B.

species of Scilla Muscari, Iris, Allium,
Oxalis, and others. These should
eitlier be annually taken up, their off-
sets removed, and the parent bulb re-
planted, or the offsets, as soon as they
send up leaves, should be destroyed.
Indeed, whenever strong blowing bulbs
is the principal object, the offsets

swar/s are evergreen shrubs; B.bisul- should never be allowed to attain any
cata, is a hardy bulb. Cuttings, offsets, ! size, but as soon as they indicate their
suckers. Sandy loam or rich mould. | existence by showing leaves above

BULBS, are really underground j ground, they should be removed with
buds ; their fibrous or real roots die I a blunt stick, or in any way least in-
annually, but the bulbs remain stored Ijurious to the parent. By this practice
with elaborated sap, and retaining, | a great accession of strength is given to
though latent, the vital powers of the the main plant, both for the display of
plant, ready for reproduction at the blossom during the current season, and
a[)propriate season. Beside root bulbs, for invigorating the leaves to prepare
as are the onion, crocus, &c., there are and deposit nutriment in the bulb for
stem or culinary bulbs, equally efficient the next year. In pursuance of the
for |)ropagation. same objects, every flower should be

The culinary bulb consists of a num- pinched off as soon as it begins to de-
ber of small scales closely compacted I cay, but the flower-stalk may remain
together in an ovate or conical form, till it begins to change colour with the
enclosing the rudiments of a future leaves." — Enc, Uard.
plant, and originating sometimes in the j " The rule to observe with newly
axil of the leaves, as in Dentaria bulbi- , imported bulbs, is to place them where
fera and several liliaceous plants, and \ they absorb moisture very slowly. The
sometimes at the base of the umbel of driest earth is full of water, which can
flowers, as in Allium carinatum and only be driven off" by the application of
others, in both which cases it is nou- intense heat. A bulb, therefore, should
rislied by the parent plant till it has be planted in what is called dry soil,
reached maturity, at which period the and placed in a shady part of a green-
bond of connexion is dissolved, and the house until it has become plump and
bulb falls to the ground, endowed with begun to shoot. If it has begun to
the power of striking root in the soil by | shoot when received, still the same

BUL

106

BUR

treatment should be observed, and the the surface to the depth of nine inches
driest soil used to plant it in. or a foot.

"It is only when decisive signs of, "As spring advances, these materials
natural growth can be detected that a may be gradually removed, and all the
very little water should be given, while care that will be afterwards required,
the temperature is at the same time | will consist in tying up the flower-stems
slightly increased ; and no considerable as they increase in growth. Unless the
quantity of water should be adminis- weather is very dry the beds will not
tered until the leaves are an inch or \ need water; if such should be the case
two above ground, and evidently dis- it should be liberally supplied, since the
posed to grow rapidly. If these pre- i want of moisture in the growing season
cautions are taken, no failures are ever , is just as destructive to Ixias, as a super-
likely to occur ; if neglected, no sue- abundance of it during their period of
cess can be anticipated. rest. If such beds are kept dry in

" To this class belong the numerous winter, they will lasf for many years
beautiful tribes of Gladiolus, Ixia, Spar- without replanting,
axis, Watsonia, &c., all of which are so ' " There are many more interesting
closely allied, that the same treatment bulbs upon which it is needless here to
is applicable to the whole of them. To , dwell, as they will for the most part
these may be added the Hyacinth. The thrive in the borders amongst other
two principal points to be attended to plants.

in the successful cultivation of the . " These are the ErA'thronium dens
Gladiolus and Ixia are, to protect the canis and americanum ; Tigridia pa-
beds in which the bulbs are planted vonia ; Pardanthus chinensis ; Zephy-
from frost and from heavy rains, both : ranthes Atamasco and Candida ; Fritil-
of which are equally destructive. For ; laria imperialis and meleagris ; Leuco-
both tribes, the beds should be com- jum aestivum and pulchellum ; Scilla
posed of prepared soil, at least one foot amoena, campanulata and prtecox ; As-
deep, with perfect drainage at the phodelus ramosus, tauricus and lacteus;
bottom. Van Thol, Sans eye and Parrot tulips;

"' That for Gladioli should consist of Ornithogalum pyramidale," &c.
two parts turfy loam, one of leaf mould, BULBOCODIUM. Two species,
and the remainder of well-rotted cow Hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets,
dung and sand. For Ixias, the greater Sandy loam and peat,
portion of the soil should be formed of: BULLACE TREE. Prunusinsititia.
sandy peat without any manure. ! BULL GRAPE, litis rotundifolia.

" In both cases the beds may be made '• BULLIARDA vaillanti. Hardy
level with the surrounding surface, and ; aquatic annual. Seeds. Loam and peat,
towards the latter end of this month the ; BUINIELIA. Fourteen species. Stove
bulbs may be planted upon them in i evergreen trees, or hardy deciduous
rows, six inches apart each way ; when shrubs or trees. Cuttings. Loamy soil,
covered over with soil, the beds will i or loam and peat.

thus be raised a few inches above the B U N C H O S FA . Eleven species,
bulbs; a small pyramid of sand should I Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings,
be formed over each, to assist in pro- \ Loam, sand and peat,
tecting them from damp. Gladioli I BUPLEURUM. Forty species,
should be covered three inches with ] Chiefly hardy annuals, biennials, peren-
soil ; Ixias not more than two inches. [ nials, and a few evergreen shrubs. OfF-

"After planting, a layer of dry de- sets or seeds. Common soil,
cayed leaf mould, or tan from a spent I BUPTHALMUM. Nine species,
bark bed, should be spread three inches Hardy annuals and perennials, or green-
thick over the beds. I house evergreen shrubs. For the green-

" Either of these will resist the rain ' house species, cuttings, loamy soil. For
for some time; but if thcre'should be a ' the herbaceous species, suckers, com-
continuance of wet, the beds should mon soil. The annuals merely require
also be protected with mats secured sowing in the open ground,
upon hoops. The tan or leaves will BURCHARDIA umbellata. Green-
likewise assist materially in excluding ' house herbaceous perennial. Offsets
frost. When, however, this sets in I or division. Sandy peat, or peat and
severely, dry leaves should be laid over i loam.

BURSERA

evergreen trees.
Loam and peat.

BUR

Two species.

107

Stove i Ripe cuttings.

Cuttings or seeds, i peat.

CAB

Rich soil, or loam and

,„.,....... ,,vc... BYSTROPOGON. Four species.

BURTONIA. .Fourspecjes. Green- Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-

house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Very
sandy loam and peat.

BUSHEL. See Basket.

B U T E A . Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

BUTOMUS. Flowering Rush. Two
species. Hardy aquatic perennials.
Division. Rich loam.

BUTTER AND EGGS. See Narcis-
sus.

BURCHELLIA. Two species. Stove

tings. Lo.'im and peat.

CABBAGE. (Brassica oleracea capi-
tata.) " The cabbage tribe is, of all the
classes of cultivated vegetables, the
most ancient, as well as the most ex-
tensive. The Brassica oleracea being
extremely liable to sport or run into va-
rieties and monstrosities has, in the
course of time, become the parent of a
numerous race of culinary productions,
so various in their habit and appear-
ance, that to many it may not appear a

evergreen shrubs. B. capensis is easily j little extravagant to refer them to the
propagated either bv cuttings of the j same origin.

roots or seed, in very sandy loam and! "We have made our selection from the
leaf mould. It requires close pruning, many which abound ; it embraces the
to restrain over luxuriance. | earliest, the latest and those which ripen

BURLINGTONIA. Two species. I intermediately, and have been chosen
Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood, on account of their superior worth and

with a little moss.

BURNET. Poterium.

BURN ONION. See Potato Onion.

BURSARIA spinosa. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat

suitableness for the peculiarities of our
climate ; having found from experience,
that some varieties highly esteemed in
Europe, are not so desirable in this
country. Short descriptions of the kinds
we are cultivating, may prove interest-

BUTTERFLY. The caterpillars of ing to those who lack knowledge of the
some of these insects are very injurious subject, and seek information.

to the gardener, though those of the moth
are still more numerous and destructive.
The butterflies which are the chief causes
of mischief- in our gardens are Pontia
brassica:, P. rap<e, P. napi, and Pieris

''TheEarly Yorkisthe earliest variety,
(with the exception of the early dwarf,
which is very small, and not worth
growing to any extent.) It is a delicious
tender cabbage, and well known to all

crategi. The smells of coal tar and ofi possessing any knowledge of gardening
gas lime are particularly offensive both j Those from American seeds produce
to butterflies and moths, and those may ' heads firmer and larger than is pro-
be readily strewed about the plants ! duccd by the imported. The entire
liable to become the depositories of J crop does not ripen so nearly together
their eggs. If shreds of flannel are i as the imported, in which respect it is
placed in the branches of gooseberries, j also superior; for whilst some among_
or among cabbages, &c., the parent in- i them will be as early as the earliest of
sects are said to place their eggs there j the imported, others will succeed them,

in preference to the leaves

BUTTERFLY-PLANT
Papilio.

BUTTON FLOWER. Gornphia.

BUTTON TREE. Conocarpus.

BUXUS. Four species and many
varieties. Chiefly hardy evergreen
shrubs. Suckers or layers. Common
soil. See Box.

B Y B L I S linijlora. Green-house

thus answering better for family use ;
Oncidium ! and for the market it is also an advan-
tage, those coming in last being of an
increased size and hardness. It is,
moreover, hardier than the imported,
and having become acclimated, with-
stands the heat better, which gives it a
great advantage over the foreign, es-
pecially at the south.

" Method of cult ii'at ion nt Philadelphia.

aquatic perennial. Seeds. Loamy soil, ' — Sow the seed from about the 10th to
and immersed in water. the 20th of September. If sown earlier,^

BYRSONLMA. Thirteen species, the plants are apt to " shoot," and if
Stove evergreen shrubs or trees. B. later, may not get sufficiently strong to
volubilis is an evergreen twining plant, stand the winter. That the seed may

CAB

108

CAB

vegetate freely, observe the directions leaves are exposed. This is done about

for sowing Broccoli. About the latter the middle of October. When cold

part of October, remove them to a spot weather approaches, they give a slight

of ground previously prepared in which covering of straw, brush, or corn-stalks',

they are to be preserved during the en- spread from ridge to ridge. Should the

suing winter. Such situations should winter prove mild the plants will suc-

be protected from northerly winds, and ceed very well, and come into head be

lav exposed to the south. The best way
13 to set a frame, provided with a shut-
ter, in which plant them with a dibble,
allowing each plant an inch square. In
this situation suffer them to remain

fore those planted in the spring. The
covering is removed the laiter end of
March or beginning of April, and the
ridges gradually cut down to a level
by the culture of the crop — deep tillage

without cover, until the middle or close is essential to success with this vege-
of November, according as the season
may be mild or otherwise. Have the
shutter at hand to use on any sudden
cold; it may be slid on at night, and re-

table.

" Having neglected to sow in Septem-
ber, or from any accident having failed
to get the plants at that time, prepare a

moved in day time, either entirely or hot-bed in February, and therein sow

partially, as the weather may require the seed, by itself, or mixed with celery,

throughout the winter; air them freely radishes, or lettuce,
in clear weather when not too cold, ^'Landreth^s Large York. — This is a

and examine them from time to time, to variety that originated at Philadelphia,

guard against the depredations of mice It is not what gardeners term a pure

which sometimes harbour in the frames, kind; that is, the heads differ some-

As early in the latter part of March or what in form; but it is one of the finest

beginning of April, as the weather will varieties we are acquainted with. When

permit, and the ground admit of being planted at the same time with the Early

worked, set them out in a compartment York, it immediately succeeds it. For

of the garden protected from northerly
blasts. The ground should be deeply
dug and manured very highly with well
rotted stable dung; the richer the earth

the market it is a profitable kind, the
heads being large, firm, and heavy. It
differs from what is known in England
as the " Large Early York," that being

is, the more luxuriant will be the growth , termed here the Early York. Mode of

and earlier the crop.

cultivation same as that of the Early

" Should the fly attack them, give fre- York,

quent sprinklings of wood-ashes and '■^Early Sugarloaf — has a conical

air-slaked lime, previously watering formed head, hence its name. It never

the plants that it may adhere; or if becomes firm and hard, and is princi-

practicable sprinkle with a solution of pally used for boiling; is esteemed a

soap. If any run to seed remove them, delicate variety ; ripens with the Large

and supply their place with fresh plants. York; is but little cultivated around

It is scarcely necessary to add, that fre- Philadelphia. Treatment same as for

quent deep hoeing should be given, to the York.

destroy weeds and loosen the earth,
that it may receive the dews; when
they have attained a sufficient size earth I

Early Batiersea — is in high repute in
England as a second early variety.
'^Philadelphia — a variety which origin-

them up, that they may the more effect- 1 ated near the city of its name. It suc-

ually withstand drought.

"The market gardeners around Phila-
delphia, plant out considerable quanti-

ceeds the Large York ; produces a firm
compact head, of large size, and is a
profitable kind for market : the whole

ties of Early York in the autumn, to crop not ripening at once, but heading

stand over winter; their plan is to successively; it withstands the heat well,

prepare a piece of ground with a and with Landreth's Large York forms

southern aspect; throw up ridges of a the main early summer crops of exten-

foot high, two and a half feet apart, run- sive gardeners who supply the Philadel-

ning from N. W. to S. E., about half phia market.

way up the side of the ridge, and on ''Large Drumhead — Flat Dutch —

the southerly side they place the plants. Large Bergen — Drumhead Savoy —

putting them in the ground so deeply Curled Savoy — These are all calculated

that nothing but the heart and upper for the winter supply. The first three

CAB

109

C AC

produce firm, large heads, and differ i CACALIA. Cliiefly stove evergreen
but little. The Drumhead has a large shrubs and trees, or hardy herbaceous
roundish head; the t)utch is flattened perennials; some are annuals. C.
on the top; the Bergen somewhat re- bicolor is deciduous; C. radicajis, an
sembles it, with short stalk, heading evergreen creeper ; C. scandens, an
near the ground. The Savoys have evergreen climber. Cuttings. Division,
curly leaves, and are much preferable Sandy loam.

to the others tor boiling; arc very CACTUS. Four species. Stove
tender and delicately flavoured when evergreen shrubs.

touched by the frost. The Drumhend Soil. — " The soil for young plants,
Sat'Oi/ has been introduced of late years, one-half peat, with equal quantities of
The head is nearly as large as the Drum- strong yellow loam, pigeons' or sheep's
head, firm and compact — hence its dung, and river sand that has been at
name. It keeps well throughout the least exposed twelve months to the
winter, and until very late in the spring, weather, and frequently turned. Never
and is decidedly worthy of general cul- mix the soil before it is wanted for use.
ture, having all the delicacy of the VVell silt, and the lumps place over the
curled variety. Time of sowing winter potsherds for drainage. When the
cabbage is April and May, to be trans- plants have attained a proper size for
planted in June and early part of .luly, blooming, add more of the loam in re-
choosing cloudy weather, when it looks potting them, particularly to C. spe-
likely for rain. An occasional watering | ciosissitnus, and in all cases give plenty
in dry weather will assist them in taking j of drainage." — Gai-d. Chron.

fresh root.

Sowing

Fill the seed-pots with

" To preserve them during winter. — cinders, to within two inches of the
In November remove them to a sheltered top, and make them up with very sandy
situation, burying the entire stalk, so peat, and a little clean sand on the top ;
that nothing but the heads remain above the pots arc then watered and the seeds
ground. In December give a slight , sown ; after which as much dry sand is
covering of straw, with brush laid onto sprinkled over them as will just fill ujt
prevent its blowing off. In this manner the spaces between them. The whole
they will keep well throughoutthe winter is then pressed down gently, and the
— the Savoys until late in the spring. ! pots are put by in any warm place,

''Late Ba^crsea— cultivated in Eng- i where they are kept moist. The seeds
land for an autumnal crop— but little ^ill vegetate in ten or twelve days, and
grown here, having been superseded by ni"st then be very gently watered, for
other kinds. i ^'^'^'' °^ displacing them, till they make

"Red Dutch— is used principally for | 'heir little roots and get firm hold of
pickling, either with other vegetables, h.'ie soil; after which they may be

or shredded by itself as " slaugh." For
early summer sup[)ly sow in September,
as directed for Early York, and in April
and May for the autumn and winter
stock, treating as directed for Drum-
head and Savoy.

"Green Glazed — grown extensively at
the south, where it is thought to resist
the worm ; does not succeed well in this
latitude. Culture similar to the other
summer varieties." — Rural Register,

The cabbage is liable to the Mildew
and Amhury, which see.

CABBAGE BUTTERFLY. See
Pontia.

CABBAGE FLY. See Anthomyia.

CABBAGE GARDEN PEBBLE
MOTH. See Pyralis.

CABBAGE MOTH. See Mamestra.

freely and regularly watered. The
seeds to he sown quite thin in the first
instance, and not to transplant the seed-
lings till they begih to get crowded in
the pots, in a year or two. These di-
rections are equally applicable to the
seeds of other succulents." — Card.
Chron.

Dr. Lindleyadds, that " the best way
to bloom C. speciosus and speciosissi-
mus, is to grow them in an enriched
soil, and keep them in a warm, light
house, while they are making their
shoots, exposing them entirely during
August and September. By the latter
practice they will become brownish
and unhealthy-looking for a time,
though they will soon recover this." —
Gard. Chron.

" The seeds of cacti may be gather-
ed and sown as soon as they are ripe.

C AC

110

C AC

Being produced in a large pulpy berry,
this never bursts of itself; but its ap-
pearance will tell you when it is mature.
All the treatment they require is, to
remove the pulpy matter from them,
and this may be best done by wash-
ing."'— Ga7-d. Chron.

Grafting. — The end of August is the
best time for this operation, and Mr.
Green, already quoted, gives these di-
rections : —

" I grow for stocks, Pereskia acu-
leate, Cereus hexagonus, and Cereus
speciosissimus. I prefer the latter on
account of its hardy, lasting, and robust
habit. I grow the stocks freely till
they attain the height that I want them.
Some I grow with five or six stems,
from one to five feet high ; others I
grow with one stem, from one to four
feet. The short stems I engraft at the
top with the Emphyllum speciosum, and
Ackermannii ; the tall single stems
with E. truncatum, and some from the
surface of the soil to the top, all of
■^vhich is of course according to indi-
vidual fancy ; E. truncatum should al-
ways be engrafted high, without which,
from its drooping habit, the greater
part of the beauty of the bloom is lost.
The shoots to be about one and a half
or two inches long. I pare off the
outer skin or bark for about half an
inch at the base of the graft, and cut
what is intended to be inserted into the
stock in the shape of a wedge ; I then
make an incision in the angles or top
of the stock with a pointed stick, made
the same shape as the scion.

" When the grafts are first put in, to
prevent their slipping out, I pass
through each a small wooden peg, or
the spine of a thorn j I then cover each
with a small piece of moss, and place
them in a shady, damp house, and
syringe them over the tops occasionally
in the evening ; they will all adhere to
the stocks in ten days or a fortnight,
and make good plants by winter. By
engrafting the showing kinds of cacti
on the stocks that I recommend above,
noble specimens can be grown in a few
years, from one to ten feet high if re-
quired, and the size and colour of the
blooms are much superior to what they
ever produce when grown on their own
roots. E. truncatum, by the above
treatment, becomes quite a hardy green-
house plant, and will bloom three i
months later than it does when grown |

in the stove on its own roots in the
usual way." — Gard. Chron.

Varieties and Species. — The follow-
ing are cultivated around Philadelphia,
and are among the more desirable. A
superb collection, perhaps the most so
in the Union, is in the possession of
Caleb Cope, President of the Pennsyl-
i vania Horticultural Society :
Cereus grandiflorus.

monstrosus.

cylindricus.

^^Mallisouia.

Smithii.

llagelliformis.

horrida.

gladiata.

gemniatus.

speciosissimus.

heptagonus.

Epiphyllum speciosa.

splendens.

Jenkinsonia.

truncatus.

Russellianus.

atropurpurea su-

perba.

vandesia.

Mammillaria prolifera.

Wildeana.

rhodantha.

stellata.

radiata.

rubra.

Echinocactus Eyreisii.

decora.

■ ottonis.
' dis-color.

simplex.

pulchella.

Opuntia, microdysa.
— '■ , leuacantha.

Cuttings and Culture. — " The best
time for propagating by cuttings is when
the plants are growing freely; make
them of whatever size can be spared
from the plants ; and those that are of
young and unripe shoots, lay on a dry
shelf in the green-house for a fortnight
to dry up the sap, which prevents them
from rotting, and causes them to emit
roots much sooner. Plant them singly
in small pots, and place them in a
moderate hot-bed frame ; when they
have filled the pots with roots, re-pot
and place in an intermediate, or pelar-
gonium-house, to remain for the sum-
mer, and receive a good supply of
water.

" In the autumn allow thera to cct

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111

C AL

quite dry, and winter in a dry, airy
part of the green-house. In spring,
again remove to the pelargonium-
house, and use a very little water,
which increase as the season advances.
" By the end of the second summer
they will have grown to the size of
good blooming plants ; and in the
autumn they should be placed out in a
warm airy part of the garden, to ripen
the shoots thoroughly.

" About the usual time of housing
other green-house plants they should
be again dried, and put, as before, in
the green-house ; place the first for
forcing in the intermediate stove about
the 1st of February, and continue a
succession, till they bloom in the green- [
house, which is about June.

" Such plants will bear the greatest ^
extremes of dryness and moisture, and
without proper attention is paid at the
season of rest to keep them quite cool
and dry, they never will bloom proper-
ly. The forcing must be commenced
at a low temperature, and water at first
given sparingly.

" When they have begun to grow
freely, and the bloom-buds are well
started, they must be watered, not by a
continued dripping, but by copious ap-
plications, and at intervals of a fort-
night, during the growing season, with
liquid manure.

" Wlien the bloom-buds are sufH-
ciently advanced, thin out all those
which are large and small, leaving
them as near one size as possible, and
at proper distance to allow the blooms
to e.xpand. When they have flowered,
keep the plants rather dry for a short
time, and place them in a cool shady
part of the green-house, or under a
north wall. In a few weeks they will
again assume their usual firm and
healthy appearance, and begin to grow ;
and then clear off all the decayed
blooms and seed-pods, and place the
plants for the autumn in the garden in
a south aspect, where there is a free
circulation of air, giving them a good
supply of water ; after this they are
moved to the green-house and treated
as before. Train them to iron stakes,
made to fit the outside of the pots or
tubs, and fasten them with wire. At-
tention should be paid to early training,
and to stopping all shoots as soon as
they attain tlie required height ; all use-
less side and bottom shoots rub off, and

occasionally some of the old shoots cut
out, and replace with young ones." —
Gard. Chron.

CADIA purpurea. Stove ever-green
shrub. Cuttings. Light loamy soil.

C.T:LESTINA. Three species.—
Green-house and half-hardy perennials.
C. micrantha is a half-hardy evergreen
shrub. Seeds. Common open soil.

CiENOPTERIS. Five species. Stove
and green-house ferns. Division. Peat
and loam.

CiESALPINA. Twenty-one species.
Stove evergreen shrubs or trees. C.
scandens is a climber ; C. gilliesii is
deciduous. Seeds. Sand, peat and
open loam.

C.i^SIA vittata. Green-house tuber-
ous-rooted perennial. Seeds. Sandy
loam and peat.

CALABASH. Crcscentia.
CALABA TREE. Calophyllum
calaba.

CALADENIA. Ten species. Half-
hardy, or stove orchids. Division.
Peat, loam, and sand.

CALADIUM. Twenty-eight species.
Chiefly stove herbaceous perennials or
evergreen shrubs. Tubers. Rich soil.
Some grow best in water ; C. simsii is
a climber.

C A L A M I N T H A. Nine species.
Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials ;
two are evergreen shrubs. Suckers.
Light loam.

CALAMPELIS scabra. Half-hardy
evergreen climber. Cuttings. Light
loam.

CALAMUS. Six species. Palms.
Seeds. Rich sandy loam. A moist at-
mosphere suits them.

CALANDRINIA. Seven species.
Stove, green-house, or hardy herbaceous
plants. Seeds or cuttings. Loam and
peat.

C.\LANTHE. Nine species. Stove
or green-house orchids. Division. Peat
and loam.

CALASHEA. Eleven species. Stove
herbaceous perennials. Division. Sandy
peat.

CALATHIAN VIOLET. Gentiana
pneumonanthe.

CALCAREOUS SOIL is a soil in
which chalk (carbonate of lime) pre-
dominates. When in great excess it
renders the colour a near approach to
white, in proportion to that e.\ce.-s. No
soil is productive which does not con-
tain some chalk, or in which it exceeds

C A L

112

C AL

nineteen parts out of twenty. From one
to five per cent, is the usual proportion
in fertile soils. Calcareous soils are
rarely productive ; they are so feebly
retentive of moisture that the crops
upon them are burnt up in summer;
and they reflect the sun's rays so fully,
that vegetation is late upon them in
spring. The best addition to such soils,
to improve their staple, is clay.

CALCEOLARIA. Thirty-one spe-
cies, and many varieties. Chiefly green-
house herbaceous perennials, or ever-
green shrubs. Cuttings or seeds. Any
rich, open, sandy soil.

Characteristics of Excellence. — " The
plant should be shrubby ; the foliage
thick, and dark green ; the habit bushy ;
the wood strong.

"The flower-stems should be short
and strong; the foot-stalks of the
blooms elastic, and branching well
away from each other, to form a rich
mass of flowers without crowding.

" The individual blooms depend en-
tirely on the form of the purse, and it
should be a perfect round hollow ball. !

" The orifice and calyx cannot be too
small, nor the flower too large. The
colour should be very dense, and whe-
ther it be a spot in the middle, or stripes
or blotches, should be bold and well
defined, and the ground should be all i
one colour or shade, whether white, !
straw-colour, sulphur, yellow, or any '
other. The colour of a self should be
brillianl, and all over the same actual ,
shade. Dark flowers, with pale edges,
or clouded or indefinite colours, are
bad, and unfit to show. The bloom
should form one handsome bunch of
pendant flowers, which should hang
gracefully, and be close to each other ;
the branches of the flower-stems hold-
ing them out to form a handsome spread- i
ing surface." — Hort. Mag. j

Raising from Seed. — " The pods j
should be taken oft' when turning yel-
low, and laid to dry on a large sheet of
paper, under a hand-glass, that the
wind may not disturb it. In the early
spring this may be sown thinly in pans
well drained with crocks, and covered
with a hand-glass, in the green-house
or under the glass of a garden-frame;
when they have attained a suflicient
size to handle, they may be pricked out
into other seed-pans, an inch apart, and
allowed to grow until they are large
enough to be in each other's way. They I

may then be potted in sixty-sized pots,
and placed in a pit or frame, there to
grow, under tolera^y attentive manage-
ment as to being kept neither dry nor
wet. If the green-fly make its appear-
ance, they must be fumigated with to-
bacco smoke, not too strongly, as it has
been known to kill all the young shoots.
If the roots reach the sides of the pot,
and begin to mat a little, they may be
changed to size forty-eight; and if they
should after that grow still stronger,
they may be once more shifted to size
thirty-two, in which they will bloom to
great advantage." — Hort. Mag.

Cuttings and Division. — " About the
middle of July, when the plants have
done flowering, preparation should be
made for propagating the different kinds
— the herbaceous, by dividing the roots;
the shrubby, by cuttings. The plants
should be encouraged in their growth,
a short time previously to this opera-
tion, by judicious watering, the remain-
ing flowers picked off, and the stems
allowed to die down, that no nourish-
ment may escape. The cuttings from
the shrubby sorts should be struck
singly in small sixties, in a frame with a
gentle bottom heat, kept shaded, and
rather sparingly watered ; when rooted,
air may be more freely admitted, and
the plants gradually hardened. As soon
as the roots appear through the soil,
they will require shifting into forty-
eights, and to be placed in a house
where they may receive plenty of top
air, side air and drafts being prejudicial
to the free growth of the Calceolaria ;
when the sun bears considerable power,
the plants should remain on the shady
side of the green-house; the tempera-
ture of the house should be from 45° to
503."— Gnrd. Chron.

Layering. — A writer in the same
work, who thoroughly understands his
subject, says : — " At the time they have
done flowering, which is under ordinary
circumstances about the latter end of
June, divest them of their flower-stalks
and dead leaves, and top-dress them
for about an inch deep, with silver-sand
and yellow loam in equal portions,
taking care that all the ripe joints of
the young shoots are covered for about
half that depth ; place them in a cool
and shaded situation, until the begin-
ning or middle of September, giving
occasional waterings during that period.
By this time most of the shoots so co-

C AL

113

C A L

vered have rooted so as to permit of house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings, seeds,
their being removed with safety from Loam and peat.

the parent plant." — Gard. Chron.

CALEPINA corvini. Hardy annual.

Potting. — The same authority says Seeds. Common soil
on ttiis point of their culture : — " Plant CALLA. Four species. Chiefly green-
them in forty-eight sized pots, or smaller house herbaceous perennials. C. palus-

tris is an aquatic ; C. pertusa an ever-
green creeper. Seeds or division. Rich
soil.

CALLICARPA. Twelve species.
Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

CALLICHROA platyglossa. Hardy

if necessary, and place them in a frame,
on a gentle bottom heat of tan, taking
care at this period to guard against the
direct influence of the sun, until they
are fairly established in their pots.

" The compost for the first potting is.
three parts of yellow loam, four of
well decomposed leaf-mould, one of annual. Seed. Common soil

cow-dung which has lain at least twelve

months, and two of silver-sand. This house evergreen shrub
soil to vary as the plants strengthen and Fibrous peat and sand,
approach their flowering season, until

CALLICOMA serratifolia. Green-
Cuttings.

C A LL IGO N UM i5a7/os/a. Hardy
the proportions are five of loam, two of evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy open
leaf-mould, two of cow-dung, and one loam,
of silver-sand,
plants are wel

From the time the CALLIOPEA aurea. Hardy herba-
established in their ! ceous perennial. Division. Loamy soil.

CALLIOPSIS.

Four species. Hardy
Coni-

pots, give them no particular attention

beyond that of slightly fumigating them ' annuals and perennials. Seed

once a week, until about the beginning mon loam

of January, when shift them into larger

CALLIPRORA lutea. Hardy bulbous

pots, and place them on the front stage perennial. Offsets. Peat

CALLISIA repens. Stove tuberous-
Division. Sandv

of a geranium house, the temperature

of which is kept at about 45o., with an rooted perennial.

exceedingly humid atmosphere. In fibrous peat.

shifting always sink the bail a little to CALLISTACHYS. Five species.

admit of a top-dressing of fresh mould Greenhouse evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.

being put over the ripe joints of the Sandy peat and loam.

young wood, which very soon emits CALLISTEJVI.MA. Two species and

roots; an operation which tends mate- many varieties. Hardy annuals. Seeds.

rially to increase the size and strength Common soil.

CALLISTEMON. Nineteen species.
Ripe

of the plants. Be very particular

drainage, never allowing a particle of Green-house evergreen shrubs,
the old drainage to be removed, and by cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand
the time they are placed in their flow-
ering pots, have a complete open drain, house evergreen trees
from within a few inches of the surface, loam
down" to the bottom of the pot, with

CALLITRIS. Three species. Green-
Seed. Sandv

CALLUS is the matter exuded from
the exception of the layers of fresh turf, the edges of the wound of a plant in the
which always introduce between the
mould and potsherds." — Gard. Chron.

CALDASIA heterophylla. Stove an-
nual. Seeds. Sandy peat and loam.

GALEA. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

CALEACTE urtictefolia. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Common
soil.

CALEAN'.\. Two species. Green-
house orchids. Division. Peat, loam,
and sand.

CALENDULA. Marigold. Twen-
ty-one species. Hardy annuals or green-
S

process of healing. It is exuded from
the horizontally communicating cells of
the plant; and in cuttings it is from and
through this exuded matter that the roots
and the perpendicular vesselsconnected
with them proceed.

CALOCHJLUS. Two species. Green-
house bulbous rooted orchids. Sandy
peat and light loam.

CALOCHORTUS. Six species. Half-
hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets.
Sandy peat and loam.

Sowing. — Dr. Lindley says : — " The
seeds should be sown as soon as ripe,
or as soon as possible after^^H^ds, in
pans filled with very sandy peat ; the

C A L

114

CAM

seeds covered rather more than a quar-
ter of an inch in depth ; and the pans
placed in any cold pit secured from
wet. They require only water enough
to keep the soil damp during the win-
ter. They will bear being placed in a
warmer situation, but not where there
is a moist heat. The young plants
should be kept growing as long as pos-
sible, by keeping them rather moist dur-
ing the summer. They must not be re-
moved from the seed-pan until after the
second too quickly, or kept dry too
long, particularly the first season ; at
that time they are very small, and are
apt to be dried up and exhausted, if care
is not taken to prevent it." — Gard.
Chron.

CALODENDRON capense. Green-
house evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loamy
soil.

CALOPHACA wolgarica.' Hardy de-
ciduous shrub. Division. Loam and
peat.

CALOPHANES oblongifoUa. Hardy
herbaceous perennial. Division. Loam
and peat.

C ALOVOGOfi pulchellus. Greenhouse
orchid. Division. Peat and loam.

CALOSTEMMA. Three species.
Green-house bulbous perennials. Off-
sets. Sandy loam and peat.

CALOTHAMNUS. Four species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy peat.

CALOTIS cuneifolia. Green-house
herbaceous perennial. Division. Com-
mon soil.

CALOTROPIS. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings or
seeds. P..ich soil.

CALTHA. Six species and many
varieties. Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Seeds or division. Common rather moist
soil.

CALTROPS, Tritmlus.

CALYCANTHUS. Five species.
Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers. Open
loam.

CALYPSO borealis. Half hardy or-
chid. Offsets. Sandv loam and peat.

CALYPTRANTHES. Two species.
Stove evergreen trees. Layers. Sandy
peat.

CALYPTRION auhletii. Stove ever-
green climber. Seeds. Peat and loam.

CALYSTEGIA. Seven species.
Hardy deciduous twining or trailing
plants. Division. Common loamy soil.

CALYTHRIX. Five species. Green-

house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

CAMASSIA esculenta. Hardy bulb-
ous perennial. Seeds. Peat.

CAMELLIA. Japonica. Green-house
evergreen shrub.

Messrs. D. Landreth & Fulton, of
Philadelphia, who are extensively en-
gaged in the culture of this charming
plant at the old Landreth Nurseries,
where was made the earliest col-
lection of the Camellia in America,
present the following as a desirable
selection. Those marked t are per-
fectly double, with the petals neatly ar-
ranged, and are among the choicest in
cultivation. Those marked with a star
are of American origin.

The catalogues of some European
Nurserymen contain upwards of five
hundred varieties; it may be readily
presumed that many of them are com-
paratively worthless : a goodly number
of such have been imported by the
American florists, and though some of
them were once esteemed, are now, by
the introduction of more desirable va-
rieties, no longer worthy a place in a
choice collection. We append a list of
a few such faded beauties.

CHOICE CAMELLIAS.

tAlba-pleno, double white.

t Fimbriata, fringed do.

*Americana, blush with rose spots.

Albertii, white.

Althffiiflora, crimson.
t*Amabile, rose and red.
t*Binneyii, light rose.

Bealii, large red.

Carswelliana, dark red.

Chandleri, white and crimson.
t*Caroline, pink.

Colvelleii, white with rose stripes.
tConcinna, dark red.
tCandidissima, purest white.

Conspicua, large red.
tCoquette.

Campbellii, white and red.

Donklarii, white rose and crimson.
tDuchess de Orleans, crimson with

white stripes.
tExemia, saimon.
*Estherii, \vhite and rose.

Elegans, rose.
tElata, crimson.

Eclipse, white with rose stripes.
*Floyii, rose red.
tFordii, dark rose.

Fairlea, crimson.

CAM

115

C AM

Fulgida, crimson.
t*Feastii, white and rose.

Gilesii, crimson and white.
t*Gunnelli, white.
*Grahamii, wliite.
*Hosackii, crimson.
t*Hempsteadii, dark rose.
+Henry Favre, rose,
tlrabricata, crimson and white.

Alba, white and rose.

*Imbricata (Dunlap's).
tincarnata, Lady Humes'.

Invincible, rose, red spots.

Kingii, white, rose spots.

Kermosina, crimson.
t*Landrethii, rose and white.
t*Martha (Buist-s), white.

Mutabilis, changeable crimson.
tMyrtiroIia, light red.

Mutabilis triversi, rose.
t*Mr8. Fetter's, rose and white.

Ochraleuca, white.
*Philadelphia, rose red.
+*Prattii, light rose.

Pomponia, white.

Queen {Fielder's), light rose

Reticulata, rose.
tRosea, rosy purple.

Rex Batavia, white, rose striped.

Rubro-pleno, old red.
tSasanqua rosea, light rose.

Sweetii, rose, spotted with red.
tSacoi vera.

Speciosa, crimson and white.

Cunningham's, rose

and

white.
*tSarah Frost, dark red.

Spicata,red.
t*Sherwoodi, crimson and white.

Tricolor, white rose and crimson.

Triumphans, rose spotted with wliite.

Thea, black tea.

Vandesia superba, crimson.

Variegata, rose and white.

Viridus, green tea.
tVictoria (Priestley-s), red, white

Corallina.

Conchaflora.

Celestina.

Carnca.

Decora.

Dorsctia.

Elphinstonia.

Francofurtensis.

Florida.

Goussonia.

Hendersonia.

Juliana.

Lawrenceana.

Oleafera.

Parksii.

Pendula.

Paeoniaflora.

Rosa Sinensis.

Rosa mundi.

Sabina.

Woodsii.

Soil. — The camellia delights in a rich
soil, but will not hear manure directly
applied. The following is the compost
used at the Landreth Nurseries — sandy
wood earth (the decomposed vegetable
matter found at the roots of trees in
I forests) and well rotted sod, or loam, in
I equal parts, thoroughly mixed, and pass-
ed through a No. 1 sieve, retaining all
I the fibrous particles in the soil.
j Propagation. — " The usual methods
^ of propagation are by inarching or graft-
! ing and budding on the single red Ca-
mellia, cuttings of which are found to
I strike root more readily than of the
\ double varieties.

" The cuttings are taken in July and
August, or as soon as the young shoots
are sutiiciently ripe at the base. They
are carefully prepared by being cut
smoothly over with a sharp knife at a
joint, and divested of one or two leaves
at the bottom, and then planted firmly
about two inches deep in pots half filled
with the Camellia compost before de-
scribed, and the upper half with fine
white sand. They are then well watered,

stripes.
Welbankiana, greenish white.
tWilliam the 4th, rose spotted with and the pots plunged in a tanbed, which

white.
t*Washington, white.
Wardii, crimson.

RF.JKCTED CAMELLIAS.

Alba simplex.

Aitonia.

Anemoniflora.

Rosea.

Alba.

Atrorubens.
Bruceana.

gives out a gentle warmth, and kept
closely shaded for three or four months,
, by which time short fibres, or a callus
from which they afterwards diverge, are
produced.

" When sufficiently rooted to bear
removal, they are potted singly in small
pots, the sand being then carefully re-
moved ; the pots should be well drain-
ed and filled with the Camellia compost,
with the addition of a little white sand.

CAM

116

CAM

" They are afterwards to be sprinkled tection in severe weather, like the Myr-
with water, and placed in a close frame tie; and if the plants are kept just above
or pit until they begin to root afresh, the freezing-point, they will succeed
and by degrees exposed to the air. The much better than when grown in a high
succeeding season they may be potted I temperature.

in the same soil as the other Camellias,
and similarly treated, and many of the

" At the time they are making their
growth, an increase of heat will be ad-

plants will then have attained sufficient vantageous." — Gard. Chron.
size and strength for inarching or bud- Grafting. — Dr. Lindley says, "For
ding, and all of them by the following grafting, well-ripened young shoots

should be taken when they are just be-
ginning to grow, and before the buds
are far advanced.

"They should be worked under hand-
glasses in a stove or forcing-house.

season.

" The best time for inarching is early
in the spring, just before the plants be-
gin to grow, and for budding as soon
as the new wood is sufficiently ripened ;

but it may be done at almost any season vvhere a temperature of from 60° to 70°

of the vear." — Gard. Chron.

is kept up. Whip grafting without the

Culture. — The same authorities state tongue is perhaps the best method ; and
that, " The proper season for the gene- it is advisable to retain a few leaves on
ral shifting is when the young growth: the stock above the graft, in order to
has hardened, and the blossom buds for: draw on the sap. The single red makes
next year can be detected at the ex- the best stock, as it strikes freely from
tremity of the shoots. i cuttings." — Gard. Chron.

"After shifting all those that require Forcing. — Mr. Robert Errington,
it, they may be placed in the open gardener at Charlton Park, has pub-
air, or retained in the green-house; as , lished a most excellent essay upon this
much air as possible should be admit-' subject, from which the following are
ted, and occasionally sprinkling the : extracts : —

foliage will improve the appearance, as ' "Draining and Potting. — In potting,
■well as be beneficial to the health of the , place three or four potsherds first, the

plants.

one overlapping the other, to insure a

" At all times attention must be paid ■ certain and speedy passage for the
to watering them properly, the roots water, then a sprinkling of pounded
being apt to become matted in the pots, I crocks, the size of horse-beans; and
80 as to render the ball of earth im- finally another sprinkling, finer still ; on
pervious to moisture ; hence it is neces- this put a thin layer of sphagnum, which
sary to see that the ball' of earth is has been dried, but not decomposed,
moistened by the water poured upon it, ' " Re-pot soon after they have made
instead of the web of fibres only. This | their young growth — as soon, in fact, as
renders an examination of the roots, or ! the young leaves are perfectly develop-
reducing and replanting them at least ed, and the end of the young wood, at
once a year, a measure almost indis- the point of junction with the wood of

pensable.

the former year, begins to turn a little

At the respective periods of growth brown. In potting, the soil should be
and flowering, the plants will require rather lumpy than otherwise, and tole-
plentiful watering ; during the latter, if rably dry, and should be rather put
not regularly supplied, the bloom-buds round the ball in regular layers, and
will infallibly fall off, instead of ex- dressed tolerably firm, but not hard, as
panding into flower; at other times a the layers are thrown in, pressing every
regular moderate supply is essential, layer a little, so that no crevice be left.
The eff'ect of constant watering may be The ball of the plant should be rather
presumed to diminish or destroy the moist at shifting, and when it is in a poi-
fertility of the small quantity of earth bound state it should be immersed in
allotted to each plant, therefore w'hen tepid water for an hour, about three
the annual re-potting occurs, carefully days previous, allowing a day or two for
take away as much of the former ball ; the sriperfluous water to drain away be-
of earth as can be done without injuring ' fore potting; place the ball immediately
or cutting the roots. The Camellia { on the sphagnum.

maybe considered as a hardy green- I "JReriod of Growth. — Thethermome-
liouse plant, requiring only a slight pro- j ter should be kept from 60° to 65'' by

CAM

117

CAM

day, and 50° to 55° by night. The
treatment should now be of a close and
moist character, giving air in modera-
tion, and with caution, every morning
from eight O'clock until noon, and then,
unless very hot weather, shutting close
up.

"There should be a little fire-heat
every morning from seven o'clock until
eleven, when it should be taken away
until four o'clock, and then applied for
the evening.

"The pipes, flues, and floors should
be watered abundantly directly the air
is taken away; then a good syringing at
three o'clock ; and the flues, &c., Stc,
wetted as before between five o'clock
and six. Watering at the root must be
carefully attended to when necessary,
using weak liquid manure.

"Period of Forming the Blossom-bud.
— Shading will now be indispensable,
the best material for which is coarse
canvas; those who are not too busy
should remove it every afternoon at four
o'clock, and replace it at nine on the
following morning.

" The temperature should range from
65° to 70° by day, and from 55° to 60°
by night, and be accompanied with a
free circulation of air, avoiding all cut-
ting winds.

" The plants must be very sparingly
watered, in fact a good smart syringing
every afternoon immediately the air is
to be taken away, say four o'clock, w ill
be nearly sufficient. The fire put out
on a warm sunny day, about three
o'clock; but it should be put entirely
out about five o'clock, as it is only re-
quisite to warm the pipes or flues suf-
ficient to produce a genial vapour for
the night; and half an hour after the
fire is pulled out the whole of the flues,
pipes and floors, should be saturnted
with water, to be evaporated by the
next day's ventilation.

"Period of Feeding the Bud.— The
fires may now be dispensed with entirely,
merely observing, in the case of sunny
afternoons, to make free use of sun
heat, by shutting up the house early in
the afternoon, say from three to four
o'clock, according to the weather. Air
should be given freely at all opportuni-
ties, and the plants should be syringed
heavily at seven o'clock in the morning,
and again at four o'clock in the after-
noon, saturating the floors and flues, or
pipes, with water in the evening.

•' The plants may be well watered at
the root whenever they require it.

"Period of Blooming. — Free water-
ing, and the use of liquid manure as
before recommended, must be persisted
in, avoiding, however, excess. The
plants require to be kept decidedly moist
at the root while in the flowering state,
rather more so, indeed, than at any
other period; and if the potting and soil
be right, and the drainage complete,
little harm will ensue from a liberal use
of water; still, any great extreme, either
of drought or wet, will be fatal to the
bud. Syringing must be entirely dis-
pensed with, and in lieu thereof a de-
posit of dew should take place every
afternoon at three or four o'clock.

"Rest Period. — The temperature at
this period should be from 50° to 55° by
day, and from 45° to 50° by night. No-
thing is necessary in addition to a lower
temperature, but syringing, steaming
and regular watering, with a moderate
circulation of air." — Gard. Chron.

An interesting work republished at
Boston with notes and additions, entitled
" Monograph of the Camellia," is
worthy a place on the shelf of every
admirer of this splendid plant.

C A M E R .\ R 1 A . Three species.
Stove evergreen shrubs or trees. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

CAMOMILE or CHAMOMILE. (An-
themis nohilis.)

Varieties. — There are two varieties,
the common single and the double
flowering.

Soil and Situation. — They require a
poor dry soil, otherwise they grow very
luxuriant, and become not only less
capable of withstanding severe winters,
but also less powerful in their medicinal
qualities. They will grow in any situa-
tion almost, but the more open the
better.

Time and Mode of Propagation. — It is
generally propagated by parting the
roots and by oflsets, which may be
planted from the close of P^ebruary until
the end of May; the earlier, however,
it is performed the better. This is the
most favourable season, but it may be
practised in the autumn. It is also
raised from seed, the proper time of
sowing which is in any of the early
spring months, but as parting the roots
gives much less trouble it is generally
pursued, but after a lapse of several
years raise fresh plants, the old ones

CAM

118

CAN

often declining in production after such
lapse of time.

Cultivation. — They should not be
planted nearer to each other than
eighteen inches, as that also gives an
opportunity to employ the hoe. Water

house herbaceous perennials. Cuttings
or division. Light loam and peat.

CANDLEBERRY MYRTLE. Myr-
tica.

CANDOLLEA. Four species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.

must be given moderately at the time of I Loam, peat and sand.

planting, if dry weather. If raised from
seed they recjnire no further cultivation
than to be kept free from weeds in the
seed-bed ; and when three or four
inches high, to be thinned to about six
inches apart, and may remain thus until
the following spring, then to be thinned
and remain, or to be removed to the
above-mentioned distance apart. A

CANDY TUFT. Iheris.

CANELLA. Two species. Stove
evergreen trees. Ripe leafy Cuttings.
Loam, peat and sand.

CANKER. This disease is accompa-
nied by different symptoms, according
to the species of the tree which it in-
fects. In some of those whose true sap
contains a considerable quantity of free

very small bed will supply the largest acid, as in the genus Pyrus, it is rarely

family

Gathering

accompanied by any discharge. To this
-In July, the flowers are ' dry form of the disease it would be well

generally in perfection for gathering ; ^ to confine the term canker, and to give

the period for performing it, however
must be governed by the flowers them-
selves, as the best time is when they
are just ojiened. Particular care must
be taken to dry them thoroughly before
they are stored, otherwise they will not
keep. Ifseed be required, the only at-
tention necessary is to leave some of the
first opening flowers ungathered ; the
seed will ripen early in September,
when it may be dried and rubbed out.

CAMPANULA. One hundred and
thirty-nine species, and many varieties.
Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials;
some green-house or hardy annuals, bi-
ennials, and evergreen shrubs.

Dr. Lindley, writing of their propa-
gation, says : — '•' Either sow the seeds,
or pot cuttings' from the old roots, in
leaf mould and sandy peat; as soon
as they are strong enough, pot them
oif in sixty-sized pots regularly, shift-
ing them into larger sizes as the
plants require them; when they have
gained a little strength, give them a
rich loamy soil, well incorporated with
a small proportion of bone dust, and at
intervals supply them liberally with
manure water.'' — Card. Chron.

CAMPELIA zanonia. Stove herba-
ceous perennial. Seeds. Rich soil.

CAMPHOR TREE. Cinnamomum
camphor a.
. CAMPION. Cucubatus.

CAMPYLANTHUS saholoides.
Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

CANADA ONION. See Onion.

CANARINA. Two species. Green-

it the scientific name of gangra^na sicca.
In other trees, whose sap is character-
ized by abounding in astringent or mu-
cilaginous constituents, it is usually at-
tended by a sanious discharge. In such
instances it might strictly be designated
ulcer, or gangraina saniosa. This dis-
ease has a considerable resemblance to
the tendency to ossification, which ap-
pears in most aged animals, arising from
their marked appetency to secrete the
calcareous saline compoundsthatchiefly
constitute their skeletons. The conse-
quence is, an enlargement of the joints,
and ossification of the circulatory ves-
sels and other parts, phenomena very
analogous to those attending the canker-
ing of trees. As in animals, this tend-
ency is generally throughout their sys-
tem, but as is observed by Mr. Knight,
" like the mortification in the limbs of
elderly people, it may be determined
as to its point of attack by the irritabi-
lity of that part of the system."

This disease commences with an en-
largement of the vessels of the bark of
a branch or of the stem. This swelling
invariably attends the disease when it
attacks the apple tree. In the pear the
enlargement is less, yet it is always
present. In the elm and the oak some-
times no swelling occurs; and in the
peach I do not recollect to have seen
any. I have never observed the disease
in the cherry-tree, nor in any of the
pine tribe. The swelling is soon com-
municated to the wood, which if laid
open to view on its first appearance by
the removal of the bark, exhibits no
marks of disease bevond the mere un-

CAN

119

CAN

natural enlargement. In the course of| about the canker of an elm, that 500
a few years, less in number in propor- pounds weight of its wood must have
tion to the advanced age of the tree,! been destroyed. There is no doubt
and the unfavourable circumstances un- that such a discharge is deeply injuri-
der which it is vegetating, the swelling ous to the tree ; but the above learned
is greatly increased in size, and the i chemist appears to have largely erred,
alburnum has become extensively dead ; for he calculated from a knowledge of
the superincumbent bark cracks, rises the amount of the saline constituenta

in discoloured scales, and decays even
more rapidly than the wood beneath.
If the caries is upon a moderately-sized
branch, the decay soon completely en-
circles it, extending through the whole
alburnum and bark. The circulation of

n the healthy sap, whereas in the dis-
eased state these are much and unna-
turally increased. I once was of opi-
nion that the disease does not arise
from a general diseased state of the
tree, but that it is brought on by some

the sap being thus entirely prevented, , bruise or injury, exasperated by an un-
all the parts above the disease of ne- healthy sap consequent to an unfavour-
cessity perish. In the apple and the able soil, situation, and culture; but
pear, the disease is accompanied by more extensive and more accurate ex-
scarcely any discharge ; but in the elm ] aminations convince me, that the dis-
this is very abundant. The only che- , ease is in the tree's system ; that its
mists who have examined these morbid ' juices are vitiated, and that disease will
products, are Sir H. Davy and Vauque- continue to break out independent of
lin ; the former's observations being : any external injury so long as these
confined to the fact, that he often found {juices continue peccant and unaltered,
carbonate of lime on the edges of the This conclusion will be justified, I

canker in apple trees.

think, by the preceding facts, as well

Vauquelin has examined the sanies as by those distributed through the fol-
discharged from the canker of an elm j lowing pages.

with much more precision. He found j The disease is not strictly confined to
this li(iuor nearly as transparent as ' any particular period of the tree's age.
water, sometimes slightly coloured, at i I have repeatedly noticed it in some of
other times a blackish-brown, but al- | our lately introduced varieties that have
ways tasting acrid and saline. From ] not been grafted more than five or six
this liquor a soft matter insoluble in years ; and a writer in the Gardener's
water is deposited upon the sides of the [ Magazine, vol. v., p. 3, states, that the
ulcer. The bark over which the trans- | trees in his orchard, though "only of
parent sanies flows, attains the appear- four years' growth, are sadly troubled
ance of chalk, becoming white, friable. With the canker." Although young
crystalline, alkaline, and effervescent trees are liable to this disease, yet their
with acids. A magnifier exhibits the old age is the period of existence most
crystals in the forms of rhomboids and • obnoxious to its attacks. It must be
four-sided prisms. When the liquid is remembered that that is not conse-
dark-coloured, the bark a[)pears black- quently a young tree which is lately
ish, and seems as if coated with varnish, grafted. If the tree from which the
It sometimes is discharged in such scion was taken be an old variety, it is
quantities as to hang from the bark like only the multiplication of an aged in-
stalactites. The matter of which these j dividual. The scion may for a few
are composed is alkaline soluble in years exhibit signs of increased vigour,
water, and with acids effervesces. The ' owing to the extra stimulus of the more
analysis of this dark slimy matter shows abundant supply of healthy sap supplied
it to be compounded of carbonate of by the stock ; but the vessels of the
potass and ulmin, a product peculiar to ' scion will, after the lapse of that period,
the elm. The white matter deposited gradually become as decrepid as the

round the canker was composed of
Vegetable matter .... 605
Carbonate of potass . . . 342
Carbonate of lime .... 50
Carbonate of magnesia . . 3

parent tree. The unanimous experi-
ence of naturalists agrees in testifying
that every organized creature has its
limit of existence. In plants it varies
from the scanty period of a few months

Vauquelin calculated from the quantity to the long expanse of as many centu-
of this white matter that was found ries ; but of all the days are numbered ;

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and although the gardener's, like the '' they sustain, however young and vigor-
physician's skill, may retard the onward I ous they were when first planted.
pace of death, he will not be perma- How inductive of this disease is a wet
iiently delayed. In the last periods ofi retentive subsoil, if the roots penetrate

life they show every sym[)tom that ac-
companies organization in its old age,
not only a cessation of growth, but a
decay of former development, a languid
circulation and diseased organs.

The canker, as already observed,
attends especially the old age of some
fruit trees, and of these the apple is
most remarkably a sufferer. " I do not
mean," says Mr. Knight, " to assert
that there ever was a time when an
apple-tree did not canker on unfavoura-
ble soils, or that highly cultivated va-
rieties were not more subject to the
disease than others, where the soil did
Tiot suit them. But I assert from my
own experience and observation within
the last twenty years, that this disease
becomes progressively more fatal to
each variety, as the age of that variety
beyond a certain period increases ; that
if an old worn-out orchard be planted
with fruit trees, the varieties of the
apple, which I have found in the cata-
logues of the middle of the seventeenth
century, are unproductive of fruit, and
in a state of debility and decay."

Among the individuals particularly
liable to be infected, are those which
have been marked by an excessively
vigorous growth in their early years. I
had one in my garden at Great Totham,
which for the first twelve years of its
existence was remarkable lor the un-
naturally large size and abundance of
its annual shoots. It then became
grievously affected by canker, which a^t
length destroyed it.

Trees injudiciously pruned or grow-
ing upon an ungenial soil, are more
frequently attacked than those advanc-
ing under contrary circumstances. The

it, appears from the statement of Mr.
VVatts, gardener to R. G. Russell, Esq.,
of Chequers Court, in Buckinghamshire.
— A border beneath a south wall had a
soil three feet and a half in depth, ap-
parently of the most fertile staple, twice
re-made under the direction of the late

j Mr. Lee, of the Vineyard, Hammer-
smith. In this the trees, peaches and

^ nectarines, flourish for the next three
or four years after they are planted, but

1 are then rapidly destroyed by the

I canker and gum. The subsoil is a stiff
sour clay, nearly approaching to a brick
earth ; and the disease occurs as soon
as it is reached by the roots of the tree.
But this is certainly not a conclusion
warranted by the premises, because the
acridity of the sap, whatever may be its
source, would be likely to injure and
corrode, in the first instance, those parts
where the vessels are most weak and
tender; now these, past dispute, are in
the branches. Moreover, we generally
see the youngest branches the earliest
sufferers.

Pruning has a powerful influence in
preventing the occurrence of the canker.
I remember a standard russet apple-
tree of not more than twenty years'
growth, with a redundancy of ill-ar-
ranged branches, that was excessively
attacked by this disease. I had two of
its three main branches, and the laterals
of that remaining, carefully thinned ;
all the infected parts being at the same
time removed. The result was a total
cure. The branches were annually re-
guhited, and for six years the disease
never re-appeared. At the end of that
time the tree had to be removed, as the
ground it stood upon was required for

oldest trees are always the first attack- another purpose. John Williams, Esq.,
ed of those similarly cultivated. The I of Pitmaston, from long experience
golden pippin, the oldest existing varie- concludes, that the golden pippin and
ty of the apple, is more frequently and ' other apples may be preserved from
more seriously attacked than any other. I this disease, by pruning away every
The soil has a very considerable influ- year that part of each shoot which is
ence in inducing the disease. If the , not perlectly ripened. By pursuing this
subsoil be a ferruginous gravel, or if it I method for six years, he brought a
is not well drained, and the soil be alu- i dwarf golden pippin tree to be as vigor-
niinous, and effective means are not | ous and as free from canker as any new
adopted to free it of superabundant variety.

moisture, the canker, under any one of j All these facts unite in assuring us
these circumstances, is almost certain that the canker arises from the tree's
to make its appearance amongst the trees i weakness, from a deficiency in its vital

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energy, and consequent inability to I applied. It must be only a tree of very
imbibe and elaborate the nourisliment I weak vital powers, such as is the golden

necessary to sustain its Irame in vigour,
and much less to supply the healthy
development of new parts. It matters
not whether its energy be broken down

pippin, that will bear the general cut-
ting of the annual shoots Tis pursued by
Mr. Williams ; a new vigorous variety
would exhaust itselfthe following year

by an unnatural rapiility of growth, by | in the production of fresh wood. No
a disproporlioned excfss of branches thing beyond a general rule for the
over the mass of roots, by old age, or j pruning can be laid down, and it
by the disorganiz:ition of the roots in an | amounts to no more than the direction
u'ngenial soil ; they render the tree in- j to keep a considerable vacancy between
capable of e.\tracting sufficient nourish- j every branch, both above and beneath
nient from the soil, consequently inca- j it, and especially to provide that not
pable of developing a sufficient foliage ;! even two twigs shall chafe against
and therefore unable to digest and ela- [ each other. The greater the intensity
borate even the scanty sap that is sup- i of light, and the freer the circulation of
plied to them. The reason of the sap ! air amongst the foliage of the tree, the
becoming unnaturally saline, appears to ] better the chance for its healthy vege-
be, that in proportion as the vigour of tation. If the disease being in a jruit
any vegetable declines, it loses the tree be a consequence of old age, it is
power of selecting by its roots the I probably a premature senility induced
nourishment congenial to its nature. ; by injudicious management, for very
An ungenial soil would have a debili- j few of our varieties are of an age that
tating influence upon the roots, in a , insure to them decrepitude. I have
proportionate though less violent de-1 never yet known a tree, unless it was
gree than a corrosive poison ; and as i in the last stage of decay, that could
these conse(iuently would absorb solu- not be recovered by giving it more air
ble bodies more 'freely, and without and light, by careful heading in pruning,
that discrimination so absolutely ncccs- improvement of the soil, and cleansing
sary for a healthy vegetation, so the j the bark

other most essential organs of nutrition,
the leaves of the weakened plants,
would promote and accelerate the dis-
ease. These, reduced in number and
size, do not properly elaborate the sap ;
and I have always found that under
such circumstances these stunted or-
gans exhale the aqueous policies of
the sap very abundantly, wmlst their
power of absorption is greatly rcduceil.
The sap thus deficient in quantity and
increased in acridity seems to corrode
and atl'ect the vascular system of the
tree in the manner already described.
These facts afford us most important
guides in attaining the desired objects,
the prevention and cure of the disease.
If super-luxuriance threaten its intro-
duction, the best remedy is for the cul-
tivator to remove one of the main roots
of the tree, and to be particularly care-
ful not to add any fertile addition to the
soil within tlieir range. On the con-
trary, it will he well, if the continued
exuberant growth shows the necessity,
for the staple of the soil to be reduced
in fertility, by the admixture of one less

If the soil by its ungenial character
induces the disease, the obvious and
only remedy is its amelioration ; and if
the subsoil is the cause of the mischief,
the roots must be prevented striking
into it. In all cases it is the best prac-
tice to remove the tap root. Many
orchardists pave beneath each tree with
tiles and broken bricks. If the trees
are planted shallow, as they ought to
be, and the surface kept duly fertile,
there is not much danger of the roots
striking into the worse pasturage of the
subsoil. On this point the experience
of Mr. \V. Nichol, the gardener at
Newick-place in Sussex, agrees with
my own. He says, that the canker
may be avoided in most instances, by
paying proper attention to the soil in
which the tree is planted. Canker, he
thinks, will seldom occur if the surface
soil is good, for in that case the roots
will never descend into the prejudicial
subsoil, but spread out their radicles
near the surface, where they find food
most abundant. If this is not kept up,
the roots descend into the obnoxious

fertile, or even of drift sand. If there i substratum, and the disease assuredly

be an excess of branches, the saw and follows.

the pruning knife must be gradually! It remains for me to detail the course

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of treatment that I have always found t the disease. Mr. Forsyth, formerly
successful in effecting a cure in any j gardener at Kensington Palace, made a
variety, not decrepid from age, if the j considerable sensation at the close of

caniier has not spread to the roots.

the last and at the commencement of

Having completely headed down, if the present century, by the wonderful

the canker is generally prevalent, or
duly thinned the branches, entirely re-
moved every small One that is in the
least degree diseased, and cut away
the decayed parts of the larger, so as
not to leave a single speck of the de-
cayed wood, I cover over the surface of
each wound with a mixture while in a
melted state, of eijual parts tar and
rosin, applying it with a brush imme-
diately after the amputation has been
performed, taking care to select a dry

effects produced upon trees, as he as-
serted, by the following composition,
used as a plaster over the wounds from
which the decayed or cankered parts
had been cut out : — One bushel of fresh
cow-dung ; half a bushel of lime rub-
bish, that from ceilings of rooms is
preferable, or powdered chalk ; half a
bushel of wood-ashes ; one-sixteenth of
a bushel of sand ; the three last to be
sifted fine. The whole to be mixed
and beaten together until they form a

day. I prefer this to any composition fine plaster.

with a basis of cow-dung and clay, be- [ Mr. Forsyth received a parlimentary
cause the latter is always more or less grant of money for his discovery ; but
absorbent of moisture, and is liable to this, as Mr. Knight observes, " affords
injury by rain and frost, causing alter- | a much better proof that he was paid
nations of moisture and dryness to the I for an important discovery, than that he
wounds, that promote decay rather than ; made one."

their healing, by the formation of new [ It has been very ingeniously sug-
wood and bark. The resinous plaster | gested, that if a destruction of the bark
seldom or never requires renewal. Mr. i by external violence, and consequently
Forsyth, the arch-advocate of earthy j likely to terminate in canker, has oc-
and alkaline plasters, finding that they i curred, it would be a good plan to in-

promoted decay, if applied to the
wounds of autumn-pruned trees, re-
commends this important act of culti-
vation to be postponed to the spring.
Such a procrastination is always liable
to defer the pruning until bleeding is
the consequence. If a resinous plaster
be employed, it excludes the wet, and
obviates the objection to autumnal
pruning. Mr. Forsyth's treatment of
the trunks and branches of trees,
namely, scraping from them all the
scaly dry exuvia of the bark, is to be
adopted in every instance. He recom-
mends them to be brushed over with a
thin liquid compound of fresh cow-dung,
soap-suds, and urine, but I very much
prefer a brine of common salt; each
acts as a gentle stimulus, which is their
chief cause of benefit, and the latter is
more efficacious, destroying insects, and
does not, like the other, obstruct the
perspiratory vessels of the tree. The
brine is advantageously rubbed in with
a scrubbing or large painter's brush.
Some persons recommend a liquid
wash, containing, as prominent ingre-
dients, quick-lime and wood-ashes,
which, as the disease arises from an
over-alkalescent state of the sap, can-
not but prove injurious, and aggravate

sert, as in budding, a piece of living
bark, exactly corresponding to the ex-
cision, from a less valuable tree.

In conclusion, I would enforce upon
the orchardist's attention the import-
ance of obtaining his grafts or buds
from trees not affected by the disease,
because apparently it is hereditary ;
and, altlujugh after-culture may eradi-
cate the malady, it is always far better
to avoid the infection, than to have to
employ a specific. Having noticed the
gangrene as it appears in various forms
upon our trees, we may now turn to a
few of the many instances where it oc-
curs to our fruits and flowers, liir it is
not too much to say that scarcely a
cultivated plant is within our enclo-
sures that is not liable to its inroads.
It assumes different aspects, and varies
as to the organs it assails ; \ct still in
some mode, and in some of their parts,
all occasionally suffer, for it is the most
common form of vegetable disease.

The canker in the auricula is of this
nature, being a rapidly-spreading ulcer,
which, destroying the whole texture ot
the plant where it occurs, prevents the
rise of the sap. Some gardeners be-
lieve it to be infectious, and therefore
destroy the specimen in which it occurs,

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CAP

unless it be very valuable; but this lithe market gardeners near London,
believe to be an erroneous opinion, the which are supplied without stint with
reason of its appearing to be infections tlie most fertilizing manure, this dis-
or epidemic beinn, that it occurs to ' ease of tlie potato is comparatively
many when they are subjected to the unknown

same injurious treatment which gives
birth to the disease.

The stems of succulent plants, such
as the cacti mesemhryanthemums, and

It appears to be caused by the appli- the balsam, as well as the fruit of the
cation of too much water, especially if cucumber and melon, and the stalk of
combined with superabundant nourish- the grape, are all liable to moist gan-
ment. Therefore, although cutting out grene, all requiring for the development
the decayinir part, when it first appears, of the disease excessive moisture in
and applVing to the wound some finely- the air, though the immediate cause
powdered charcoal, will effect a cure'if of its outbreak is usually a sudden re-
tlie disease has not penetrated too deep-
ly, yet it will be liable to return im-
mediately if a less forcing mode of cul-
ture be not adopted. No auricula will
sud'cr from this disease if it be shifted
annually, and the tap root at the time of
moving be shortened; a thorough system
of draining being adopted, either by
using one of the pots suggested in an

duction of temperature. — Principles of
Gardening.

CANNA. Thirty-eight species and
some varieties. Stove herbaceous per-
ennials. Seed or division. Ilich light
soil.

C. iridijiora is the most splendid; a
writer in the Gardener's Chronicle says,
that " so far from requiring stove heat,
othc'r part of this work, or'by having the few plants cultivated in a green-house
pot used one-fourth filled with pebbles, are more hardy. It only requires pro-
and excessive damp during the winter tection from frost, and the border of the

conservatory is its proper place, where
it continues growing, with the thermo-
meter varying between 35'^ and 45'^."

CANTERBURY BELL. Campanula
medium.

CANTHIUM dubium. Green-house

evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich soil.

CAPE JASMINE. Gardenia fiorida.

CAPE PHILLYREA. Cassine capen-

CAPER TREE. Capparis.

CAPPARIS. Capers. Twenty-nine
species. Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs.
Cuttings. Loam and peat.

CAPRIFOLIUM. Goat Leaf. Seven-

being prevented by proper shelter.

Parsley grown in a poor soil is also
liable to canker in the winter. Mr.
Barnes says, he never found any appli-
cation which eradicated this disease so
etfectually as a mixture in equal parts of
soot and slaked lime, sown over the
plants. The cure is complete in a few
davs, the vigour of the plants restored
indicating, that this species of ulcer-
ation, like that which is found in the
dwellings of the poor, arises from de-
ficient nourishment.

The tubers of the potato also are
liable to the speck, black spot, or dry

gancrene, a disease which I once teen species and some varieties. Chiefly

thought was occasioned by the calcare
ous earth, lime, or chalk contained by
the soil, but more lengthened observa-
tion has convinced me of my error; and
having observed it in all soils, and in
seasons characterized by opposite ex-
tremes of wetness and dryness, I am
induced to consider that the disease
arises from some detect in the sets em-
ployed, or to potatoes being grown too

hardy deciduous, or evergreen twming
or climbing plants. Cuttings. Common
soil.

CAPSICUM. Twenty-four species
and some varieties. Stove evergreen
shrubs, or hardy and stove annuals.
Seeds. Rich open soil.

The following are the kitchen garden
species and varieties.

Capsicum Annuum. — Capsicum or

of\en on the same site. It is quite , Guinea Pepper. Of this there are five
certain, from my own experience, that
in ground tired of potatoes, the disease
invariably, and most extensively, ap- i
pears. This suggests that it is occa- j
sioned by a deficiency of some con-
stituent in the soil, a suggestion con-
firmed by the fact, that in the fields of.

varieties: —

1. Long-podded.

2. Heart-shaped.

3. Short-podded.

4. Angular-podded.
Round Short-podded.

C. Cerasiforme. — Capsicum or Cherry

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Pepper. Qf this there are three varie-
ties:

1. Cherry-shaped.

2. Bell-shaped, or Ox-heart.

3. Yellow-podded.

C. grossum. — Capsicum, or Bell Pep-
per. Of this there are three varieties: —

1. Old Bell-shaped or Buii^nose.

2. Sweet or Spanish.

3. Tomato-shaped.

So/7 ayid Situation. — The soil best
suited for them is a rich moist loam,
rather inclining to lightness than te-
nacity.

Time and Mode of Sowing. — They are
propagated by seed, which may be sown
towards tlie end of March or beginning
of April in a hot-bed of moderate size,
with the shelter of a frame; or some-
what later on an open border, protected
from cold winds: when the plants are
sufficiently advanced they may be trans-
planted to their permanent position in
the garden.

To obtain Seed. — For the production
of seed a {)lant bearing some of the for-
wardest and finest fruit of each Variety
must be preserved, that it may be ripe
before the frosts commence, the first of
which usually kills the plants. When
completely ripe, the pods are cut and
hung up in the sun, or in a warm room,
until completely dry, in which state
they are kept until the seed is wanted
for sowing.

CARAGANA. Fourteen species.
Chiefly hardy deciduous shrubs. Grafts,
layers or seeds. Sandy open loam.

CARALLIA lucida. Stove evergreen
tree. Cuttings. Sandy peat and loam.

CARALLUMA. Four species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam
and brick rubbish.

CARAPA. Four species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam and
sandy peat.

CARAWAY. Carum Carui.

CARDAMLNE. Lady's Smock. Ele-
ven species. Hardy herbaceous plants.
Division. Peat and lonni.

CARDL\AL FLOWER. Lobelia car-
dinnlis.

CARDOON. {Cynara cardunculus.)

The stalks of the inner leaves, when j
rendered tender by blanching, are used
in stews, soups, and salads.

Soil and Situation. — A light rich soi
is most suitable to this vegetable, dur
deep and well pulverised. The situa-
tion must be open, and free from trees

Time and Mode of Sowing. — It may
be sown at the close of March, but for
the main crop not until the early part of
April, those plants raised from earlier
sowings being apt to run at the close of
autumn ; for a late crop, a sowing may
be performed in June. The best prac-
tice is to sow in patches of three or
four rows four feet apart each way, to
be thinned finally to one in each place,
the weakest being removed. If, how-
ever, they are raised in a seed bed,
they will be ready for transplanting in
about eight or ten weeks from the time
of sowing, and must be set at similar
distances as are specified above.

The plants of the first sowing are
generally three weeks before they make
their appearance; those from the latter
ones about two. If after a lapse of
these times they do not appear, it
should be ascertained if the seed is de-
cayed, and in thnt case the sowing re-
newed. The seed must be sown rather
thin, and covered about half an inch.
When about a month old, the seed-
lings, when too thick, must be thinned
to four inches apart, and those removed
may be pricked out at a similar dis-
tance. When of the age sufficient for
their removal they must be taken up
carefully, and the long straggling leaves
removed. The bed for their reception
must be dug well and laid out in
trenches as for celery, or a hollow sunk
for each plant ; but as they are liable
to suffer from excessive wet, the best
mode is to plant on the surface, and
form the necessary earthing in the form
of a tumulus. Water must be applied
abundantly at the time of planting, as
well as subsequently, until they are
established ; and also in August, if dry
weather occurs, regularly every other
night, as this is found to prevent their
running to seed. The only other ne-
cessary point to be attended to is, that
they may be kept free from weeds dur-
ing every stage of their growth. When
advanced to about eighteen inches in
height, which according to the time of
sowing will be in August, and thence
to October, the leaves must be closed
together by encircling them with a hay-
band, and earth placed round each
plant, a dry day being selected for per-
forming it. As they continue to grow,
fresh bands and earth must be constant-
ly appli(;d until they are blanched to
the height of two feet, or about two-

CAR

125

CAR

thirds of their stems. They will be fit j
for use in eight or ten weeks after the ,
earthing first commences. Care must
be had in earthing them up, to prevent
the earth falling in between the leaves,
which IS liable to induce decay. The
surface of the soil should likewise be
beaten smooth to throw oft" the rain. In
severe weather their tops should be
covered with litter, by which they may
be preserved in a serviceable state
throughout the winter.

To obtain Seed — Which in this coun-
try seldom comes to maturity, but in dry
seasons a few plants should be set in a
sheltered situation of the April sowing,
not earthed up, but allowed the shelter
of mats or litter in frosty weather. The
flowers make their appearance about
the beginning of July, and the seed is
ripe in September.

CARDUXCELUS. Two species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division.
Common soil.

CARDUUS. Thirty-eight species.
Hardy annuals, biennials, and peren-
nials. Seeds or division. Common
soil.

CAREYA. Three species. Stove
evergreens ; C. herbacea is a splendid
herbaceous stove plant. Division. Light
loam and sandy peat.

CARCilLLIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen trees. Cuttings. Peat
and open loam.

CARICA. Six species. Chiefly stove
evergreen trees. Leafy cuttings. Loamy
soil.

CARISSA. Five species. Stove ever-
green trees. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

C.\RLINA. Ten species
plants ; C. lyrata is a green-house
biennial. Seeds. Common soil.

CARLOVVIZIA salicifoUa. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Sandy loam.

CARLUDOVICA. Five species.
Stove evergreen climbers, or herbace-
ous perennials. Suckers,
and loam.

CAR.^HCHAELIA australis. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy
peat.

CARNATION. Dianthus caryophyl-
lus. The Carnation is a prominent
flower at the horticultural shows in
England, and exciting contests tor the
premiums are annually exhibited. In
the United States it succeeds but indif-
ferently well, and a really good col-

lection of Carnations is a rarity : in-
deed so rare, that but few of us have
seen what a British amateur would
deem worth looking at. We reprint
the whole of the article on the subject
as it originally stood in the Dictionary,
for the benefit of those who m.iy be
disposed to make importations and em-
bark in the culture of this charming
flower.

Mr. J. F. Wood, of the Coppice,
Nottingham, gives the following list of
varieties.

Scarlet Bizarres. — Twitchett's Don
John ; Martin's Splendid ; Headley'a
Achilles; Headley's William Cobbett;
Bucknall's Earl Fitzharding ; Strong's
Duke of York; Wilmer's Conquering
Hero.

Crimson Bizarres. — Puxley's Prince
Albert ; Holmes' Count Paulina ; Maus-
ley's Robert Burns ; Ely's Lord Milton ;
Jacques' Georgiana ; Chambers' Kate;
Jacques' Iris; Parker's Sophia.

Scarlet Flakes. — Twitchett's Queen
of Scarlet ; Wigg's Earl of Leicester ;
Bucknall's Ulysses ; Wilson's William
the Fourth ; Wilmer's Hero of Middle-
sex ; Addenbrook's Lydia.

Purple Flakes. — Mausley's Beauty of
Woodhousc ; Headley's Empress of
Purples; Headley's Incognita; Pol-
lard's First-rate; Wilmer's Solander;
Millwood's Premier ; Strong's Esther.

Rose Flakes. — Brooks' Flora Gar-
land ; Greasley's Village Maid ; Wil-
son's Harriet ; Ely's Lady Ely ; Sicla-
more's Lady Rowley ; Pearson's Madam
Mara.

Scarlet Bizarres. — Jolly Dragoon
Hardy (Ely's) ; Game Boy (Rainforth's) ; Lead-
er (Hepworth's) ; Don John (Mer-
chant's) ; Lady of the Manor (Mill-
wood's) ; Patriarch (Ilulton's) ; Union
Jack (Ward's) ; Sir Robert Peel
(Groves') ; Locomotive (Morris') ; Duke
of Leeds (Hoyle's) ; Prince Albert
(Hoyle's) ; Splendid (Martin's) ; Con-
Sandy peat, quering Hero (Wilmer's) ; Brutus (Col-
cut's) ; Juba (Colcut's) ; Charles the
Twelfth (Mausley's) ; William the
Fourth (Walmsley's) ; Colonel (Lee's)
Duke of Devonshire ; Mars (Walms-
ley's).

Crimson Bizarres. — Duke of Bedford
(Ely's) ; Count Paulini (Holmes') ; Duch-
ess of Kent (Brown's); Bloomsbury
(Soorn's) ; Hector (Brown's) ; Lord Mil-
ton (Ely's); Lord Brougham (tiicas-
ley's); Squire Plumtree (Hufton's) ;

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Mrs. Brand (Ely's) ; William Caxton
(Ely's); Robert Burns (Mausley's) ;
Tally-ho (Woolley's) ; Bonpland (Wil-
mer's) ; Dord Durham (Tomlinson's) ;
Rainbow (Cartwright's) ; Squire Ray
(Hufton's) ; Betty (Lovegrove's) ; King
Alfred (Gregory's) ; Eclipse (Eason's) ;
Taglioni (Pickering's).

Scarlet Flakes. — Beauty of Cradley
(Wallis') ; Ringleader (Toane's) ; Bright
Venus (Ely's); Premier (Creswell's) ;
Lord Morpeth (Ely's) ; Captain Ross
(Ely's) ; Mary Anne (Greasley's).

Rose Picotees. — Few of this class are
grown near Nottingham ; the following
are amongst the best : Queen Victoria
(Green's) ; Favourite (Giddens') ; Fanny
Irby (Wilson's) ; Marchioness oi' West-
minster (Evans') ; Queen Victoria
(Wains'); Ann Page (Lovegrove's); Mar-
quis of Granby (Simpson's) : Earl of
Errol (Wilmer's); Wellington (Foster's);
Earl of Leicester (Wigg's) ; Rob Roy
(Orson's); Madame Mara (Pearson's) ;
William the Fourth (Wilson's) ; Lady
Hill (Pugh's); Fox Hunter (Hufton's):
Donna Maria (Millwood's); Red Rover
(Fletcher's) ; Bishop of Gloucester
(Brown's).

Rose Flakes. — Lovely Anne (Ely's) ;
Rosea (Hulton's); Queen Victoria (Hy-
ron's) ; Lady Gardiner (Ely's) ; Lady
Ely (Ely's); Elizabeth (Easum's);
Village Maid (Greasley's); Lady Flora
(Hudson's) ; Sarah (Hastings') ; Brew-
ing (Hoyle's) ; Miss Walker (Ash-
worth's) ; Mrs. Pickering (Pickering's) ;
Lovely Nancy (Hoyle's); Eliza (Par-
kinson's) ; Emma (Lakin's) ; Miss Molly
(Ely's) ; Queen of England (Fletcher's);
Luna (Brown's) ; Lady Egertou (Low's);
Lady Grey (Malpas').

Purple Flakes. — Mango (Ely's) ; Beau-
ty of Woodhouse (Mausley's); Bellero-
phon (Leighton's) ; Prince Charlotte
(Turner's); Premier(Millwood's); Squire
Meyneli (Brabbin's); Sir J. Plastain
(Bates') ; British Queen (Elliot's) ; In-
vincible (Simpson's) ; Major (Spray's);
Miss Thornton (Hudson's) ; Enchanter
(Pearson's); Rev. J. Gisborne (Brab-
bins') ; Miignilicent(Ely's) ; Queen Vic-
toria (Ely's); Cleopatra (VVeldon's) ;
First Rate (Pollard's) ; Platoff (Hall's) ;
Major Cartwright (Hall's).

Red Picotees. — Mrs. Flower (Ely's) ;
Miss Bacon (Wollard's) ; Little Won-
der (Wollard's) ; Duke of Wellington
(Sharp's) ; Mary (Morris') ; Pilot (Mor-

ris') ; Will Stakely (Hutton's) ; Derby
Willow (Maw's) ; King of the French
(Green's) ; Royal Briton (Hardy's) ; Ma-
tilda (Parkinson's) ; Venus (Hudson's) ;
Mary Antony (Benii's); Hector (Sharp's);
Cornelius (Barraud's) ; Colonel Foreman
(Barraud's); Teazer (Giddens'); Cresar
(Giddens') : Criterion (Sharp's); Cathe-
rine (Hardy's) ; Nulli Secundus (Maus-
ley's) ; Bloomsbury (Clegg's) ; Mrs. Jud-
son (Wheatley's) ; Lady Peel (Pullen's);
Vespasian (Giddens'); Victoria (Mus-
croft's) ; Queen ofSheba (Wakefield's);
Nottingham Hero (Robinson's); Mr.
Mugglestone (Robinson's); Hope (Brink-
ler's) ; Trip to Cambridge (Dickson's) ;
Grace Darling (Ely's) ; Pluperfect (Wil-
son's) ; Queen Victoria (Kirkland's) ;
Nehemiah (Hufton's) ; Delight (Jack-
son's) ; Victoria (Crask's) ; Isabella
(Hufton's); Miss Hunter (Hufton's), alias
Toones, Miss Garey ; Mary (Lee's).

Characteristics of Excellence. — Mr.
Orson, at a meeting of the Floricultural
Society, made these excellent observa-
tions : — " Carnations were originally
divided into three classes, viz., Bizarres,
Flakes, and Picotees ; but the latter are
now considered a distinct variety. Bi-
zarres were distinguished by having two
colours, and flakes by having only one
colour upon a white ground ; these two
principal classes being subdivided into
scarlet, crimson, pink, and purple bi-
zarres— scarlet, purple, and pink or
rose flakes. In some counties pink,
purple, and crimson bizarres were all
classed under the head of pink bizarres,
whereas in other parts of the country
they were known as crimson bizarres.

" The calyx, or pod, should be long,
firm, and entire, of sufficient substance
to support the petals, which should be
thick, broad, and substantial, smooth,
and free from indenture on the edge.
The guard petals should rise gracefully
above the pod, and turn in a horizontal
direction, having a gradual disposition
to cup, but not terminating in an abrupt
curl, at the outer edge, the whole form-
ing a complete circle. The interior
petals should rather decrease in size as
they approach the centre, each row be-
ing regularly and alternately arranged
above the other, and not have a loose
and gaping appearance, in fact, the
spaces should be only sufficient to dis-
play the colouring distinctly. The num-
ber of petals in a first rate flower
should not be less than seventeen, three

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•

of them being placed in the centre, to I very full picotees are not to be advo-

form a crown.

cated, a medium fulness is best. The

"The whole would then, if well ar- I same disqualifications with regard to
ranged, produce the form of the half of I the petal and pod are applicable as to
an oval or elliptic, when held on a side ' the carnation." — Card. Chron.
view; having, when seen from above, j Soil. — Dr. Horner recommends —
a circular appearance. The colours, } " Two parts old pasture sods, two years
whether bizarre or flake, should be old, and one part old frame manure,
strong, brilliant, and distinct through- ' three years old, with a sufficient addi-
oiit. The ground colour should be a I tion of coarse river sand, to prevent te-
pure white; free from speck, spot, tint, [ nacity ofthe soil. Pasture sods reduced
or tin^eof any sort. Theflakes should I to mould, are preferable to soil taken
be bro'ad and bold, commencing at the from a greater depth, inasmuch as they
extreme edge, ofa proportionate width | contain the fibrous roots of the grass,
to the petal, running through to the cen- I which during their gradual decay afford
tre, or as far as the eye can discern, and ' a constant supply of most acceptable
diminishing in breadth as they approach [ nourishment." — Gard. Chron.
the centre, in the same ratio as the pe- | " Propagation. — Pipings stuck in this
tal. The distribution of colours should ! monld are to be covered with a hand-
be equal in every respect: in a flake, \ light, exposed fully to the sun ; but in
not less than three divisions in each j hot weather, in the evening, water
petal; in a bizarre, not less than five | poured over the hand-light; pick out
divisions, and properly arranged ; their ^ worms and slugs. If the pipings are
respective and united beauties should | placed in a box, covered first with a
be strikingly apparent. | bell-glass, which is to be exchanged for

" Size should not be lost sight of, ' a small hand-glass, or a larger bell-
though it should never take precedence, | glass, as the pipings begin to grow, the
unless the other general properties were j boxes placed on a stage on the north
equal. The disqualifications of a car- i side ofa tree, and the stage resting on
nation are — a dead, loose, mutilated, j feeders, filled with lime-water, there is
or split petal, a petal having no white ; less trouble with insects, and the pipings
on the upper side ; a petal having (if a ; will grow very well, but not so rapidly."
flake) no colour upon the white on the — Gard. Chron. For the best mode of
upper side; a petal upon which (if a : obtaining piping's, see PinTc.
bizarre) there are not two colours upon j Raising Varieties. — Dr. Lindley says,
the white on the upper side; if the pod ] — " The fertilization of carnations
be split down to the sub-calyx, or cut I should be performed as soon as the stig-
away in any part." — Gard. Chron. j mas unfold. The action of pollen is

" The properties of the picotee, with ' not instantaneous, but slow; and it is
regard to form and petal," says the same j necessary that it should adhere,
authority, " are the same as in the car- I *' Although it may produce no effect
nation, with this exception, that, as the at the time of applying it, yet it will
colour of the picotce is, or ought to be, eventually fertilize the seed-vessel, if
confined to the margin of the petal, a | the flower be kept dry. If the seed-
greater degree of fulness was admissi- i vessel grows, and yet the seed does
ble, proportionate with the lightness or not swell, it is because fertilization has
narrowness of the marking. The co- not taken place. It would increase the
lour should be clear and distinct, con- probability of procuring seed, to place
fined to the edge of the petal, and not the pots near a south wall. It is of no
running down orbarring; neither should use to cut out the centre petals when
the white in the slightest degree run the flower is very double." — Gard.
through to the edge of the petals, but Chron.

whether lightly or heavily marked, the Sowing. — "The surface ofthe soil
colour should be regular, at an equal should be finely pulverized, and the bed
distance from the edge all round the raised somewhat above the level ofthe
petal, each petal having the same re- adjoining ground. The seed may be
gularity of colouring throughout the scattered broadcast over the bed, and
flower

„^.. afterwards lightly pressed with the back

" Although a full floweris not so ob- ' ofa rake." — Gard. Chron.
jectionable as in the carnation, yet, as ! " Seedlings are always more vigorous

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than those that have been in cultivation
for a length of time.

" It is not usual for carnations and
pinks to bloom the first season. When
the seed is sown early, flower-stems

The method of performing the work
is as follows: — First provide a quan-
tity of small hooked sticks, three or
four inches long, with which to peg
the layers down, also in a barrow

are occasionally thrown up late in the i quantity of light rich mould to raise tive

autumn, and all destroyed by frost.
Gard. Chron.

The plants generally come up in a
month after sowing ; give occasional
watering and weeding, and in July they
will be fit to prick out into nursery beds,
which prepare in an open situation, ;

earth, if required, around each plant;
and provide also a sharp penknife.
Having all these ready, then proceed
to the work of layering : first, strip oHT
all the leaves from the body of the
shoots, and shorten those at the top an
nch or two evenly; and then, fixing

three feet wide ; and taking advantage j upon a strong joint about the middle of
of moist weather, prick the plants there- the shoot, and on its under side, cut
in four inches apart, and finish with a j the joint half way through, directing
general watering, which repeat occa- your knife upward, so as to slit the
sionally till all the plants have taken shoot up the middle almost to the next
good root. Here let them remain till
September, — when they will be so well
advanced in growth as to require more
room ; and should have their final trans-
plantation into other three-feet-wide
beds of good earth, in rows lengthways
the bed, nine inches asunder, and the
same distance in the lines, placing them
in the quincunx order; and here they are
to remain all the winter, and until they
flower, and have been increased by
layers ; until which periods all the cul-
ture they require is, that if the winter
prove very severe, an occasional shel-
ter of mats, during the hardest frost,
will be of much advantage , and in
spring, loosen the ground between them
with a hoe. Keep them always clear
from weeds, and when their flower-
stalks advance, tie them up to sticks.
They will flower in June, July, and
August, at which times, as soon as the
singles and doubles are distinguishable,
all the singles may be rejected.

When fully blown, examine their pro-
perties ; the finest may be marked for
stage flowers, and the others are furni-
ture for the borders ; all of which may
be increased by layers the same year

joint above ; of which joint the thin
skinny part must be trimmed off, for
the layers always form their root at
that part. This done, loosen the earth
around the plant, and, if necessary, add
some fresh mould to raise it for the
more ready reception of the layers ;
then with your finger make a hollow or
drill in the earth to receive the layer,
which bend gently down horizontally in
the opening, raising the top upright, so
as to keep the gash, or slit part of the
layer, open, and with one of the hooked
sticks peg down the body of the layer
to secure it in its proper place and po-
sition, still preserving the top erect and
the slit open, and draw the earth over
it an inch or two, bringing it close about
the erect part of the shoot ; and when
all the shoots of each plant are thus
layered, give some water to settle the
earth close, repeating the waterings
often in dry weather; and in five or six
weeks the layers will have formed good
roots, when they should be separated
with a knife from the old plants, and
planted in beds or pots^

Taking off and transplanting the
Layers. — The layers are generally well

Propagation by Layers. — The proper rooted in six weeks after layering, vvhich

parts lor layers are those leafy shoots
arising near the crown of the root,
which, when about five inches long, are
of a proper degree of growth.

The general season tor this work is
Jurie, July, and beginning of August,
and the sooner it is done after the shoots
are ready the better, that they may
have sufficient time to acquire strength
before winter. Those layered in June
and July will be fit to take off in Au-
gust and September.

you will observe by opening the earth a
little, and examining the bottom, or
root part; and if it has emitted plenty
of fibres, they should be taken off, and
planted out.

They must be cut, or separated with
a knife from the old plant, gently rais-
ing them out of the earth with the point
of a trowel, to preserve the fibres, or
roots of the layers; and when thus taken
up, cut off the naked sticky part at bot-
tom close to the root, and trim the tops

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of the leaves a little : they are then
ready for planting, either into beds or
pots, but rather into nursery-beds of
good earth, to remain six vveeiss, and
then the fine sorts may be potted.
Therefore, choosing a bed or border of
rich light earth, let it be then neatly
dug, and the surface raked smooth, and
here plant the layers, %fith a dibble, at

tirely off, for if much covered it would
draw them up weak and tender.

Be careful also that the drainage in
the pots is very good.

Thus continue your care of the potted
plants till spring, and then shift them
into large pots, to remain to blow, as
directed in tiieir spring culture.

In respect to those in the open beds,

six or eight inches distance; give di- | although they commonly stand the win-
rectly a good watering, and repeat it, [ ter tolerably, yet, if you have any spare
in dry weather, every day or two, for a i frames, or the beds arched over, to be
week or a fortnight, when the plants ^ covered with mats or long dry litter in
will have taken fresh root, and begin to ] severe frosts, it will be of much advan-

advance

In this bed let them take their growth
^till October, then the fine varieties may
be potted insmall pots (forty-eights) for
moving to occasional shelter from hard
frosts, till spring, then into large pots,
to remain to flower; therefore, at the
above-mentioned time in autumn, take
up the layers of the prime sorts from
the nursery beds into small pots, and
give a moderate watering, and place
them in a warm situation, in the full
air, till November, then move them to
occasional shelter, as directed in their
winter culture.

The more common sorts may either
at the above time in autumn be trans-
planted into the borders or other com-
partments ofthe pleasure ground, where
they are to remain to flower, or may be
continued in the beds until spring; and
then a due quantity may be disposed in
the borders, or retained in the same
bed, for flowering.

IVinte?- Culture. — In November, the
varieties in pots should be moved to a
sunny, sheltered situation for the win-
ter ; and if placed in a frame, &c., to
have occasional protection from hard
frost, it will be of much advantage.
The pots may be placed close together,
or if the bod is raised three, four, or
six inches, with a light dry earth, sand.

tage.

Spring Culture, Shifting, SfC. — In
the latter end of February, or some
time in March, the layers in the small
pots, or such as are in beds, and that
you intend shall blow in pots, should
be transplanted with balls into the large
pots, where they are to remain.

The pots proper for their reception
for flowering, should be nine or ten
inches at least in the clear at top, but
if a foot the better, that there may be
due room to lay the layers, at the pro-
per season, for a further increase,
which is an essential point to be con-
sidered.

The pots being ready, put some
pieces of tile or oyster shells over the
holes at the bottom; add plenty of
drainage, and fill them halfway with
earth, then turn the plants out of the
pots, &c., with the ball of earth about
their roots ; and after taking away a
little of the earth around the sides of
the ball, place one plant in each of
the large pots, filling up the vacancy
around the ball with fresh compost,
bringing it also close up about the
body of the plant, which should stand
nearly as high as the rim of the pot ;
and finish each pot with a moderate
watering.

Being thus potted, place them in a

or ashes, and so plunge the pots in it to sheltered sunny situation in the full air,
their rims, it will be a greater protec- ] and in dry weather supply them with
tion for their roots, covering them oc- 1 water twice a week, and here let them
casionally with the glasses in hard | remain till they are considerably ad-
frosts, &c.; but for want of frames, a j vanced towards flowering, then the fine
bed prepared as above may be arched sorts may be placed on the Carnation
over with hoops, to be covered occa- ! stage.

Summer Culture. — During dry warm

sionally with mats.

Under either of those shelters the ! weather continue the care of watering
plants are to be covered with glasses | those in pots every day or two. Like-
or mats only in time of severe frost, j wise clear out all weeds, and at times
but must enjoy the full air in all open i lightly stir the surface. In May and
weather, by having all covering en- | June the flower-stems of the plants will
9

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advance, when sticks should be placed stage, by means of small neat rails,
for their support, which should be two carried along lengthways of the stage,
feet and a half or a yard long, either just over the place where each row of
round or square, but perfectly straight, pots stand, and from which rails up-
an(ftaporiiig from the bottom: sharpen- ' right sticks half an inch thick are car-
ing the lower end thrust one down by ' ried to another such rail above, placing
every plant, to which tie the flower- them at such distances that there be
stems in a neat manner, which repeat two to each pot, and so train^ the
as they advance in height. flower-stems up to the outside of the

In June, or beginning of July, the sticks,

plants will be considerably advanced With respect to the cups of vrater

towards flowering, when those intended above mentioned, they are earthen or

for the stage should be placed there, to leaden, about fifteen inches wide, and

prevent th'e depredation of slugs ; the three or four deep, having a hollow or

posts or supporters of the stage should
be surrounded at the bottom by small
cups of water; and by placing the
plants on a stage, having tlie platform
eighteen inches or two feet high, the
flowers are viewed to more advantage ;
and if there is erected an awning over

vacancy in the middle sis inches wide,
like a socket to receive the posts ; and
is formed by a raised rim in the middle,
equal in height to that of the circum-
ference, and the hollow or socket so
formed as to receive the bottom of the
posts quite through to the ground ; and

the top, supported four feet above the the space between the outer and inner
platform, the flowers being screened rim is filled with water, so that each
from the heat of the mid-day sun, and , post standing in the middle of such a
defended from heavy rains,' are con- | cistern, sufficiently guards the plants
tinued much longer in beauty. | against creeping insects, for they will

Some Carnation stages' are con- ; not attempt to cross the water,
structed upon very elegant plans, both ] For want of a covered stage to screen
to render them useful and ornamental, i the flowers, you may contrive a kind of

But as to the general construction of small umbrellas or round spreading
a common Carnation stage, it is formed caps, either of tin or canvas, nine or
entirely of slight timber work, thus — a ten inches diameter, one for each plant;
boarded platform is erected eighteen having a socket in the middle to receive
inches or two feet in height, formed by the tops of the support-sticks ; those
two ranges of planks, to contain two umbrellas which are formed of tin are
rows of pots lengthways, supported on the best, but if you make them of can-
posts, ransed either in one row along vas, first make little round frames,
under the'^middle of the platform, or in having the rim formed with slips of
two ranges, one on each side ; and lead, wire, cane, &c., the above width,
over is erected a roof of open work, with cross slips of the same materials;
five or sis feet high, to be covered with contriving a socket of lead or tin in the
painted canvas, supported either by a middle for the support-stick to go quite
range of neat posts on each side, or by through, as just observed ; and upon
one row ranging along the middle, be- these frames paste or sow canvas,
tween the planks of the platform, which which paint with oil-colour, that they
is the most eligible ; the roof may be may stand the weather ; either of
formed either archways or like the which covers are placed over the
ridge of a house, having the arches or flowers by running the support-stick up
spars about a foot asunder, and stiff'ened through the hole or socket in the mid-
by thin slips ofdeal, carried across them die, and resting the cap upon a piece
the whole length of the stage ; and the | of wire put across the stick at such a
roof thus formed may be covered with , height from the flower as to screen it
coarse canvas painted white. ; effectually from the sun and rains.

All the wood work of the stage Give attention to continue to tie up
should be painted white, both to pre- neatly the flower-stalks of the plants as
serve it from the weather, and give it they advance in stature. When they
a more lively appearance. In con- are arrived at their full height, support
structing Carnation stages, some con- i them erect at top with wires, having a
trive sticks for the support of the | small eye or ring at one end, for the
flower-stalks, fixed to the work of the reception of the flower-stalk ; so put

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the other end into holes made in the
support-sticks. These wires should be
five or six inches long, and several holes
are made in the upper part of tlie sticks;

full width and extent, the longest un-
dermost, and the next longest upon
these, and so of the rest quite to the
middle, observing that the collar must

the first at the height of the bottom of: nowhere appear wider than the flower
the flower pod, the other above that, an | when it begins to burst,
inch or two distant ; and place the wires Continue the care of watering the
in the holes lower or higher, that the | pots, which in dry hot weather will be
eye or ring may be just even with the necessary every day, being essential to
case of the calyx, to support the flower I promote the size of the flowers, and
in an upright position ; and by drawing ! increase the strength of the shoots of
the wire less or more out, the flower is the plants at bottom for layers.

And as in June and July these layers
will have arrived at proper growth for
layering, they should also be layered to
continue )'0ur increase of the approved
varieties, and so continue layering the
shoots of each year's growth at the
above season, managing them always
as before directed.

As to the border carnations, i. e.,
such as you intend shall flower in bor-
ders or beds, in the open ground, any
of the varieties may be employed ; and
their propagation both by seed and
layers is the same as already directed.
The season for transplanting them into
the places of their final destination for
flowering, is October or beginning of
November, for the autumn planting ;
and for that of the spring, any time in
March or first fortnight in April ; re-
moving them with little balls about their
roots, planting them about two feet from
the edge of the border; and as to cul-
ture, it is principally tying up the flower-
stalks as they advance in stature, and
to make layers of all the approved
sorts annually, in June or July. — Aber-
crombie.

Carnation Pots. — The pots commonly
made and used for the purpose of
blooming carnations in, are called wide-
mouthed twelves. Two plants are put
in each pot, and they are made wide at
the top for the convenience of layering
the plants in.

Disease. — The " black spot*' on the
leaves of carnations, is an infection
propagating itself in the same manner
as rust in corn, or mildew of plants,
each spot being composed of innumera-
ble small fungi.

CAIIOR TRF:E. Ceratonia.
CAROLINF:a. Four species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Rich loamy

preserved at any distance from the sup
port as shall seem necessary to give it
proper room to expand ; and if two or
three of the like wires are placed also
in the lower parts of the support-sticks,
placing the stem of the flowers also in
the eye of the wires, all the tyings of
bass, &c., may be cut away.

To have as large flowers as possible,
clear off all side shoots from the flower-
stem, suffering only the main or top
buds to remain to flower.

When the flowers begin to open, at-
tendance should be given to assist the
fine varieties to promote their regular
expansion, particularly the large burster
kinds, they being apt to burst open on
one side ; and, unless assisted by a little
art, the petals will break out of com-
pass, and the flower become very ir-
regular; therefore, attending everyday
at that period, observe, as soon as the
calyx begins to break, to cut it a little
open at two other places in the indent-
ings at top, with narrow-pointed scis-
sors, that the openings be at equal dis-
tances, and hereby the more regular
expansion of the petals will be pro-
moted ; observing if one side of any
flower comes out faster than another,
to turn the pot about, that the other side
of the flower be next the sun, which will
also greatly assist the more regular ex-
pansion of the flower.

Likewise, when intended to blow any
particularly fine flowers as large and
spreading as possible, florists place
spreading paper collars round the bot-
tom of the flower, on which to spread
the petals to their utmost expansion ;
these collars are made of stiff white
paper, cut circular, about three or four
inches diameter, having a hole in the
middle to receive the bottom of the
petals, withinside of the calyx, the
leaves of which are made to spread flat CARPINUS.
for its support ; and then spread or draw manv varieties.
out the petals upon the collar to their, Seeds or layers,

Three species, and as
Hardy deciduous trees.
Common soil.

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CARPODONTUS lucida. Green-
house evergreen tree. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

CARRICHTERA vella. Hardy an-
nual. Seeds. Common soil. A dry
situation suits it best.

CARROT. {Dnucus carota.) "The
Carrot is a hardy biennial. The root of
the plant in its wild state is small ; dry,
sticky, of a white colour, and strong
flavoured."

Varieties. — Those with a regular fusi-
form root, are named long carrots; and
those having one that is nearly cylin-
drical, abruptly terminating, are de-
nominated horn carrots. The first are
employed for the main crops, the se-
cond, "on account of their superior deli-
cate flavour, are advantageously grown
for early use, and for shallow soils.

" The principal sorts are the Long
Orange, best for the main crop; the
Early Horn, for early summer use ;
and the Altringham and Large White,
for field culture.

" The cultivation of all the varieties
is the same. The plant requires a
deeply dug or ploughed soil, in good
tilth, otherwise the root is apt to branch
or become forked. For the early sup-
ply drill the seed (allowing 12 or 14
inches space between the drills), in a
warm protected border, any time during
spring ; the main crop need not be put
in before its close. When the plants
are up two or three inches in growth,
they will require thinning, and cleaning
from weeds, either by hand or small
hoeing; thin from three to five inches
distance, such as are designed for draw-
ing, in young and middling growth ; but
the main crop, intended for large and
full sized roots, thin to six or eight
inches distance; keep the whole clean
from weeds in their advancing young
growth.

"To preserve them during the win-
ter, remove them to the cellar, and pile
them up with alternate layers of earth
or sand ; or they may be placed in heaps
in the garden, with sufficient soil over
them to exclude frost. The Carrot is a
tolerably hardy root, and but little diffi-
culty attends its preservation.

" It is a valuable food for stock, and
in an especial manner worthy of exten-
sive field culture. When grown for
that purpose sow in drills three feet
apart, and cultivate thoroughly — the
Long Orange is perhaps the best even

for this purpose — does not grow so
arge as the White, but is of superior
quality." — Rural Register.

To obtain Seed. — Leave some where
raised, but if this is impracticable, some
of the finest roots should be selected,
and their tops not cut so close as those
for storing ; these likewise must be
placed in sand until March, then to be
planted out two feet asunder, in a stifl
loamy soil. Those left where grown, or
those planted at the close of autumn,
must, during frosts, have the protection
of litter, it being invariably removed,
however, during mild weather. As the
seed ripens in August, which is known
by its turning brown about the end of
August, each umbel should be cut ; for
if it is waited for until the whole plant
decays, much of the seed is often lost
during stormy ' weather. It must be
thoroughly dried by exposure to the sun
and air, before it is rubbed out for stor-
ing. For sowing, the seed should al-
ways be of the previous year's growth ;
if it is more than two years old it will
not vegetate at all.

CARROT MAGGOT. This under-
ground enemy of the carrot is banished
by mixing spirit of tar with sand until
saturated, and applying it to the soil
previously to digging, at the rate of
about one gallon to sixty square yards.
— Gard. Chron.

CARROT MOTH. See Tinea.

CARTHAMUS. Two species. Hardy
annuals. Seeds. Sandy loam or com-
mon soil.

CARTONEMA spicatum. Stove her-
baceous perennials. Seeds. Sandy
peat.

CARUM carui. Caraway. Hardy
biennial. Seeds. Common soil.

CARYA. Ten species, and some
varieties. Hardy deciduous trees. Seeds
or layers. Common soil.

CARYOCAR. Three species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy open
loam, or loam and peat.

CARYOPHYLLUS aromaiicus.
Clove Tree. Stove evergreen tree.
Cuttings. Sandy peat and loam.

CARYOTA. Three species. Stove
palms. Seeds. Rich soil and a moist
warm atmosphere.

CASCADE, or Waterfall, is an im-
portant adjunct in landscape gardening,
but agreeable only when properly as-
sociated with the scenery around ; that
association is a bold broken ground, and

CAS

133

CAT

a dense plantation of trees; nothing is I
more misplaced or tasteless than a sheet
of water falling into another uniform
collection of water, in an open un-
wooded plain. Mr. Whateley justly
observes, that " a rill cannot pretend

without that appearance of effort which
raises a suspicion of art. To obviate
such a suspicion, it may sometimes be
expedient to begin the descent out of
sight; for the beginning is the difficulty: if
that be concealed, the subsequent falls

to any sound beyond that of a little seem but a consequence of the agita-
waterfall ; the roar of a cascade belongs tion which characterizes the water at its
only to larger streams: but it maybe first appearance, and the imagination is,
introduced by a rivulet to a considera- at the same time, let loose to give ideal
ble degree, and attempts to do more extent to the cascades ; when a stream
have generally been unsuccessful; a issues from a wood, such management
vain ambition to imitate nature in her will have a great effect, the bends of its
great extravagancies betrays the weak- . course in an open exposure may afTord
ness of art. Though a noble river frequent opportunities for it, and some-
throwing itself headlong down a preci- times a low broad bridge may furnish
pice be an object truly magnificent, it the occasion, a little fall hid under the
must however be confessed, that in a arch will create a disorder, in conse-
single sheet of water there is a formality quence of which, a greater cascade be-

which its vastness alone can cure, but
the height, not the breadth is the
wonder: when it falls no more than a
few feet, the regularity prevails, and its
extent only serves to expose the vanity

low will appear very natural."

CASCARIA. Six species. Stove

evergreen shrubs. Cuttirtgs. Sandy

loam.

CASINE. Seven species. Green-

of affecting the style of a cataract in an house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings,

artificial cascade; it is less exceptionable Loam and peat.

if divided into several parts, for then CASSIA. One hundred species,
each separate part may be wide enough Chiefly stove or green-house evergreen
for its depth; and in the whole, variety, shrubs. Some are annuals, and a few
not greatness, will be the predominant herbaceous perennials. Cuttings. Light
character. But a structure of rough, loamy soil, or loam and peat,
large, detached stones cannot easily be CASSINIA. Five species. Green-
contrived of strength sufficient to sup- house evergreen shrubs. C. aurea is
port a great weight of water, it is some- an herbaceous perennial. C. spectahilis.

times from necessity almost smooth and
uniform, and then it loses much of its
effect : several little falls in succession
are preferable to one greater cascade,
which in figure, or in motion, ap-
proaches to regularity.

" When greatness is thus reduced to
number, and length becomes of more
importance than breadth, a rivulet vies
with a river, and it more frequently runs
in a continued declivity, which is very
favourable to such a succession of falls. '

an evergreen annual. Division, cut-
tings, or seed. Loam and peat.

CASTANEA. Chestnut. Five species
and some varieties. Hardy deciduous
trees. C. indica is a stove evergreen.
Seeds or grafts. Common soil.

C A S T A N 0 S P E R M U M (I ws/ ra /?.
Green-house evergreen fruit tree. Lay-
ers. Loamy soil.

CASTELEA erecta. Stove evergreen
tree. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

CASTILLEJA. Four species. The

Half the expense and labour which are stove evergreen shrubs succeed in loam
sometime bestowed on a river to give it and peat, and increase by cuttings. The
at the best, a forced precipitancy in any hardy herbaceous and annuals by divi-
one spot only, would animate a rivulet sion or seeds. Sandy peat,
through the whole of its course ; and CASUARINA. Nine species. Green-
after all the most interesting circum- house evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy
stance in falling waters, is their anima- loam and peat.

tion : a great cascade fills us with sur- , CATALPA. Three species. Hardy

prise, but all surprise must cease; and deciduous and stove evergreen trees.

the motion, the agitation, the rage, the Seed, layers, or cuttings. Loam and

froth, and the variety of the water are peat.

finally the objects which engage the CATANANCHE. Two species. C.

attention; for these a rivulet is suf- ctfr«/ea,hardy herbaceous perennial. C

ficient, and they may there be produced /jz/ea, an annual. Seed. Common soil.

CAT

134

C AU

CATAPHAGUS, a synonyme oC Ela-
ter. See Wireworm.

CATASETUM. Seventeen species
and some varieties. Stove epiphytes.
Division. Wood.

CATCUFLY. See Silene.

spring ; and to behold some acres over-
spread with such glasses, gives a
stranger a forcible idea of the riches
and luxury of the metropolis. In Eu-
rope it is had in fine perfection during
a great portion of the year, and with

CATERPILLAR. This is the young scarcely more trouble than attends the

of either the butterfly or the moth, in growing of the cabbage. But in this

its first state after emerging from the country it is at best very uncertain, and

egg. There are many kinds, and the unless the summer prove cool, seldom

best mode of preventing their invasions, succeeds.

is to destroy every hutterjiy, moth, chry- " For the main summer crop sow the
sa/«s, and egg that can be found. Hand- seed early in autumn, and that it may
picking, dusting with lime, or soot, and vegetate freely, observe the directions
other modes of destroying the caterpil- for sowing Broccoli. Having succeeded
lar, are mentioned when noticing the in getting the seeds to sprout, an occa-
plants they attack. Wherever a solu- sional watering is given if dry weather
tion of ammonia, in the proportions of ensue. The plants remain in the seed-
one to nine of water can be applied by bed until the close of autumn, by which
the syringe, it will destroy many minute
caterpillars undiscerned by the eye.
Sparrows and other small birds in early
spring should not be scared from the

time they will be good sized plants,
having four or five leaves. Then place
a frame provided with a sash, in a
sheltered situation, on rich earth, deep-
garden, for they destroy myriads of ly dug, loose, and finely raked, in

caterpillars. At that season they can
do no harm if the gardener properly
guards his seed beds. Boys paid a halt- square

which the plants should be pricked out

at distances of two to three inches

When the bed is filled, water

penny per dozen for leaves having eggs them gently through a fine rose. Thus

or smaller caterpillars upon them, have they remain until frosty nights render

been found to keep a garden free for a it prudent to run on the sash ; observ-

whole season for about seven shillings, ing to remove the sash entirely in very

'CATESBjEA. Three species. Stove fine days, or elevate to a greater or

evergreen trees and shrubs. Cuttings, less degree, as the temperature of the

Light turfy loam and peat.

atmosphere demands. Even in cool

CATHARANTHUS. Two species weather during the winter, more or
and varieties. Stove evergreen shrubs. , less air should be admitted, especially

Seeds or cuttings. Common soil.

if the sun shine ; taking care to put

C. pusillus is an annual, and requires ; down the sash before sunset, and cover-

ing all snug for the night. During mild
Twenty-two species showery weather the sash should be
Stove epiphytes, occasionally drawn off, which will re-
fresh the plants.

" As the winter advances and cold
increases, a mat covering at night will

a light rich soi

CATTLEYA
and some varieties
Division. Wood

CAULIFLOWER. {Brassica oleracea
cauliflora.)

" The Cau///Zou,'er is one of the most , be requisite, and as the weather be-
delicate and curious of the whole bras- j comes still colder, an additional one,
sica tribe; the flower-buds forming a or a quantity of loose straw so placed
close, firm, cluster or head, white and over the sash, and round the edges,
delicate, and for the sake of which the that the severe frost may be excluded.

plant is cultivated.

' As early in the spring as the weather

These heads or flowers being | will admit, prepare a piece of ground
boiled, wrapped generally in a clean , to plant them in; let it be deeply dug,
linen cloth, are served up as a most and richly manured with thoroughly
delicate vegetable dish. 'Of all the decomposed stable dung. In selecting
flowers in the garden,' Dr. Johnson ] the ground in which to plant them,
used to say, ' I like the Cauliflower.' ; choose that which is convenient to
" For the early supply of the London , water, for in dry seasons, irrigation will
market very great quantities of Cauli- j promote their growth, and increase the
flowers are fostered under hand-glasses j chance of success. (Select the evening
during winter and the first part ofi for watering, having previously drawn

C E A

135

C E L

the earth around each plant, in the form
of'a basin.)

" Before removing the plants from the
beds, murk as many of the strongest as
the frame will hold, allowing eighteen
inches square to each plant ; there per-
mit them to remain undisturbed, re-
taining the sasiies, and treating them as
if in a hot-bed. They will come for-
ward before tliose transplanted, and
frequently do well, when the latter fail.
We would advise that the plants to be
put out, be divided, one half placed on
a warm border with southern exposure,
under the lee of a building or board
fence, the others in an open compart-
ment of the garden. — For this reason,
if the spring prove cold, those on the
border will be hastened and protected
from late frosts, and if the early part of
summer prove dry and hot, those in the
open compartment will be more favour-
ably situated. Hand glasses, flower
pots, or boxes put over them at night,
during cool weather, are highly advan-
tageous. When they begin to show signs
of heading, break a leaf over them, to
protect from the direct rays of the sun.

" To force Caulijlowcrs ; make a hot-
bed at close of winter, planting them
therein, from the cold bed or frame, at
the distances of fifteen inches. A pret-
ty free admission of air is necessary,
otherwise they will advance too rapid-
ly, and become weak and spindling;
during mild days in April, the sash
should be drawn off, and as the wea-
ther becomes warm, plentiful irrigation
should be administered.

" JMte Caulijlowers are sown at the
same time with the Broccoli ; they head
as it does, and re()uire similar treat-
ment, though not so certain to succeed."
— Rural Register.

CEAXOTHUS. Twenty-two species.
Chiefly stove or green-house evergreen
shrubs ; some are hardy deciduous. C
perennis is herbaceous. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

CECIDOMYIA. C. nigra. Black
Gall Midge. This insect lays its eggs
in the blossom of the pear early in the
spring, and the larva; thence born con-
sume the pulp of the embryo fruit.
Sometimes they eat their way through
its skin, and at others remain within its
core until it falls.

CECROPIA. Three species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

CEDAR OF GOA. Cupressus lusi-
tanica.

CEDAR OF LEBANON. Cedrus Li-
bani.

CEDRELA. Three species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Light loam.

CEDRUS. Cedar. Two species.
Hardy evergreen trees. Seeds. C.
deodara, grafts readily on the common
larch. Sandy loam.

CELASTRUS. Twenty-seven
species. Chiefly green-house or stove
evergreen shrubs, trees, or climbing
plants. C. bullatus and C. scandens,
are hardy deciduous climbers. Ripe
cuttings. Sandy loam' and peat.

CELERLVC, or TURNIP-ROOTED
CELERY {ylpium rapaceum).

Time and Mode of Solving. — It may
be sown in March, April, and May, to
atford successive plantations in June,
July, and August. The seed must be
sown in drills six inches apart, and kept
regularly watered every evening in dry
weather, otherwise it will not germi-
nate. The bed must be kept free from
weeds, and when about three inches
high, they may be pricked out into
another border in rows three inches
apart each way ; giving water abund-
antly and freciuently : by adopting the
precautions mentioned in the cultiva-
tion of celery, the same seed bed will
afford two or three distinct prickings.
In the neighbourhood of Dresden, where
this vegetable is grown in great perfec-
tion, they sow in February or March, in
a hot-bed under glass, and the plants
are removed in April, when two or
three inches high to another hot-bed,
and set an inch and a half apart. The
fineness of the plants is there attributed
to the abundance of water with which
they are supplied.

When live or six inches high, they
are fit'for final planting; they must be
set in rows two feet asunder, and the
plants eight inches apart, on the level
ground, or in drills drawn with the hoe
at most three inches deep, as they do
not require earthing up. In dry weather
they should be watered plentifully, at
least every other evening. The only
additional attention they require, is to
keep them free from weeds. They
require a very light fertile soil.

Saving Seed. — The directions given
for saving the seed of Celery, are in
every respect applicable to this vege-
table.

C EL

136

C E L

CELERY. (Apiumgraveolens). "The
Celery is a hardy biennial plant, a na-
tive of Britain, and known in its wild
stale, by the name of smallage ; the
whole plant has a rank coarse taste,
and the effects of cultivation in pro-
ducing from it the mild sweet stalks of
Celery, are not a little remarkable.

" Tiie blanched leaf stalks are used
raw as a salad; they are also stewed,
and put in soups. In Italy the unblanch-
ed leaves are used for soups, and when
neither the blanched nor the green
leaves can be had, the seeds bruised,
form a good substitute.

those which have been transplanted
into the nursery-bed just described,
have reached the height of six to twelve
inches, they may be removed into the
trenches for further growth and blanch-
ing. These trenches are formed in
deep well cultivated soil, in straight
lines, three feet apart, twelve to four-
teen inches wide, and six inches deep,
incorporating with the soil abundance
of well rotted manure ; therein set the
plants, four or five inches apart, (having
removed them with all their roots, cut
off the straggling fibres, and a third of
the tops, and slit off the suckers or side

" In Europe, they enumerate several i shoots,) water them Jreely, and shade
varieties of Celery, two only of which ! them from the hot sun for some days.

we cultivate, viz : Large Solid Stalked
White, Large, Solid, Stalked Red.

" It delights in damp rich soil, deeply
dug, and heavily manured with decom-
posed vegetables or manure, from the
barn yard, thoroughly rotted.

" For a very early crop, sow the seed
in a hot-bed very early in the spring,
either by itself, or among Radishes,
Salad, or Cabbage. For the main au-

Experience has shown that this vegeta-
ble may be more successfully cultivated
by having a liberal portion of manure
placed on the surface around the plants,
rather than by the old plan of placing
it in excessive quantity in the bottom
of the trench, which in dry seasons fre-
quently injure the plants. Cedar brush,
corn stalks, or boards, laid across the
trenches, afford ample shade, for the

tumnal and winter supply, sow in the ! newly transplanted plants, observing

open ground on a damp spot, conveni-
ently situated to apply water, which
give freely in dry weather, even after
the plants are well grown.

*' That intended for the early supply,
may be planted out by the close of
spring. Make several plantings through
the early part of summer, of such as
are intended for the later supply.

It will greatly strengthen the plants

to remove them in the evening, and
replace them in the morning. In the
course of a few weeks, the plants will
have grown sufficiently to admit of
' earthing up,' which is performed by
drawing the loose earth around the
stalks, taking care to keep the leaf
stems together, and the heart of the
plant uncovered. The operation should
be gradual, not drawing at once too

if they be transplanted into nursery ' great a body of earth around them, lest
beds, after they attain the height of two ; its application should cause the young
or three inches. Such beds it is re- | shoots to rot. It is not advisable early
commended to form ' of old hot-bed j to commence earthing up, sucli as are
dung, (decomposed manure from the ' intended for the late autumn and win-
barn yard will answer the same pur- { ter supply, because the plant soon per-
pose,) very well broken, laid sis orjishes after it becomes fully blanched,
seven inches thick on a piece of ground | especially in warm weather,
which has lain some time undisturbed, | " To preserve Celery during the win-
or has been made hard by compression ; | ter, is sometimes attended with trouble,
the situation should be sunny ; the j the frequent changes of temperature in

plants set six inches apart in the dung
without soil, water well when planted,
and frequently afterwards.' From this
bed they are in due time transplanted,
where they are to remain. A stalk
which had been thus treated, was raised
near Manchester, which weighed nine
pounds when washed, with the roots
and leaves attached to it, and measured
four feet six inches in height.
" When the plants in the seed-bed, or

our climate causing it to decay. The
usual practice is to cut down the earth
of one row in a perpendicular line near
the plants, against which, as if it were
a wall, the stalks from the other rows
are compactly arranged, tops erect : the
earth is then banked up as before, and
again cut down, to make room for an-
other row, thus continuing, until the
entire crop is placed side by side,
within the compass of a single bed.

C E L

137

CES

Seeds. Division.

On either side of the bed, earth is piled I Two are biennial.

up to tiie thickness of three feetat least. Common soil.

On the top, (through which the extreme ; CENTROCLINIUM. Two species,

ends only of the plants appear,) some I one a stove annual, the other an ever-

dry straw litter is placed, to save them
from the frost, and keep them green.
Boards placed over the beds so as to t
turn off the rain, are very useful, for
much moisture frequently proves ruin- [
ous. In taking out for use, begin at]
one end, digging down to the roots,!
always observing to keep the aperture
closed with straw. i

jreen shrub. Seeds. Light vegetable
soil. /

CENTROSPERMUM chrysanthum.
Hardv annual. Seeds. Common soil.

CENTAURY. Centaurea.

CENTUNCULUS minimus. Bastard
pimpernel. Hardy annual. Seeds.
Sandy loam.

CEPHAELIS. Eight species. Stove

" Some take up the crop on the ap- j evergreen shrubs, two are trailing
proach of winter, and place it in a eel- ; plants. Cuttings. Peat and sandy

lar, with alternate layers of dry sand ;
but it is apt, when thus treated, to 1
become tough and wilted.'" — Rural Reg.
To Save Seed. — To raise seed, some
plants must be left where grown, or in j
February or March, some may be care-
fully taken up, and after the outside
leaves are cut off and all laterals re-
moved, planted in a moist soil a foot
apart. Those which are most solid, and
of a middling size, are to be selected.
When they branch for seed, they must
be early attached to a stake to preserve

them from being broken by the violence ; loam.

loam.

CEPHALANTHERA. Three spe-
cies. Hardy orchids. Division. Peat
and loam.

CEPHALANTHUS occidentalis and
variety. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Ripe
cuttings or layers. Sandy peat and
loam.

CEPH ALOTUS follicularis. Green-
house herbaceous perennial. Offsets.
Boggy soil.

CERANTHERA suhintegrifolia.
Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy

of winds. The flower appears in June,
and the seed is swelling in July ; if dry
weather occurs they should be watered
every other night. In August the seed
will be ripe, and when perfectly dry,
may be rubbed out and stored.

CP^LOSIA. Cockscomb. Fourteen
species and some varieties. Chiefly
stove or green-house annuals. C. echi-
nata, C. glauca are evergreen shrubs.
Seeds. Rich mould. See Cockscomb.

CELSIA. Nine species. Chiefly half
hardy biennials, some stove annuals

CERASUS. Twenty-eight species
and many varieties ; chiefly hardy de-
ciduous fruit trees and shrubs, a few
evergreens. C. occidentalis, and C.
spharocarpa, are stove evergreens.
Seeds. Budding or grafting.

CERATIOLA er/co/des. Half hardy
green-house evergreen under shrub.
Cuttings. Sandy peat.

CERATOPETALUM gummiferum.
Green-house evergreen tree. Cuttings.
Sandy loam.

CERERA. Six species. Stove ever-

C. orientalis is a hardy annual. Seeds, i green trees or shrubs. Cuttings. Rich

Peat and loam.

CELTIS. Eleven species and two
varieties. Stove evergreen trees or
hardy deciduous trees and shrubs.
Seeds or layers. Common soil.

CENTAUREA. One hundred and
fifty-two species and some varieties.
Chiefly hardy and half hardy herbaceous
perennials; a few annuals and biennials.
C. ragusina is a green-house evergreen
shrub. Seeds. Division. Common soil.

CENTRANTHUS. Three species,
and variety. Hardy annual and her-
baceous perennials. Seeds. Common
soil.

CENTROCARPHA. Nine species.
Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials.

ould.

CERCIS. Two species and varie-
ties. Hardy deciduous trees. Seeds.
Light loamy soil.

CEREUS. One hundred and thirty-
one species. Stove cactaceous plants.
Cuttings, dried before planting. Sandy
loam.

CERINTHE. Five species. Hardy
annual or biennial plants. Seeds. Com-
mon soil.

CEROPEGIA. Thirteen species.
Stove or green-house evergreen twining
or deciduous climbing plants, tuberous
rooted perennials and evergreen shrubs.
Cuttings. Sandy loam.

CESTRINUS carthamoides. Hardy

C ES

138

CH A

herbaceous perennial. Division. Com-
mon soil.

CESTRUM. Twenty-eight species.
Stove and green-house evergreen shrubs.
Cuttings. Peat and loam. C. auran-
tiacum is the prettiest species for the
green-house.

CETONIAaura/flt. Green rose chafer,
is most severely felt by the gardener
when it attacks his strawberries, which
it does in May or June. It is described
by Mr. Curtis as being " one of our
largest and most beautiful beetles, being
of a briglit burnished green, often re-
flecting a rich golden or copper tint;
the horns are short with a small club.
The scute] tbrras an elongated triangle;
the wings are very long, brownish, and
folded beneath the horny wing-cases,
which have a few scattered white lines
placed transversely, resembling cracks
in the green epidermis; the under side
is of a fine copper tint often inclining to
rose colour. From its nestling and
reposing in the flower of the rose, it is
generally called the rose-chafer, but it
is also attached to the white-thorn,
candy-tuft, elder, mountain-ash, peeony
and strawberry, the flowers of which it
feeds upon. The female rose-chafers
lay their eggs in the ground, and the
larvae they produce are no doubt often
confounded with those of the cock-
chafer {Melolontha vulgaris), being as
large and very similar, and probably,
under the name of " Leverblanc,"
they have contributed in no small de-
gree to augment the ravages in the
rose-tree nurseries ofFrance. Although
these larv« are very much alike, it is
not difficult to distinguish them, those
of the rose-chafer being downy, and
covered with transverse series of short
hairs; and the feet are pointed; whereas,
the grubs of the cock-chafer are naked,
and the feet are blunt and rather dilated
at the trips.

" These maggots are fat, the head-
horns and six pectoral feet are rusty
ochreous ; the tips of the strong jaws
are black, the extremity of the abdo-
men is of a pale ink colour from the
food shining through the transparent
skin ; but in the rose-chafer there is a
large horny bright rust-coloured spot on
each side of the first thoracic segment.
The simplest remedy is to collect the
beetles, which are large and conspicu-
ous, into bottles or cans of water, in
the morning and evening, or in dull

weather during the day, for they fly
very well, when the sun shines, which
renders it difficult to capture them
unless a net be used : when the search
is ended, the contents of the vessel
should be emptied into boiling water."
— Gard. Chron.

CH^.TACHL^NA odorata. Green-
house herbaceous perennial. Seed.
Sandy loam.

CHiETANTHERA. Two species.
Green-house herbaceous perennials.
Division. Peat and loam.

CH^TOCALYX vincentina. Stove
evergreen climber. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

CH.'ETOGASTRA. Two species.
Stove annual and herbaceous peren-
nial. Seed. Peat and loam.

CHALK. Carbonate of lime, con-
tains, when pure —

Carbonic acid .... 45

Lime 55

But as it usually occurs it contains about
twenty-four per cent, of water, and five
per cent, of silica (flint), alumina (clay),
and oxide (rust) of iron. After these
deductions it will be apparent that if
fifty tons of lime be applied to land, it
will be equal to more thaiji one hundred
of chalk, a subject worthy of considera-
tion when it has to be conveyed from
afar. Chalk is usually employed in
large quantities to improve the staple of
a soil. It makes heavy soils less re-
tentive of moisture, and light sandy
soils more retentive. On wet sour lands
it neutralizes the acids which render
them unproductive. Some chalks con-
tain phosphate of lime, and this being a
constituent of all plants, such chalk is
to be preferred. Some contains a large
proportion of carbonate of magnesia,
which is less beneficial.

CHAMiEDOREA. Two species.
Palms. Rich sandy loam. Suckers.

CHA.MMLEDON procumbens. Hardy
evergreen shrub. Layers. Sandy peat

CHAMjELIRIUM carolinianum
Hardy herbaceous perennial. Division
Peat and loam.

CHAMISSOA altissima. Stove ever
green shrub. Cuttings. Common soil

CHAMiEROPS. Seven species
Palms. Suckers. Rich mould.

CHAMOMILE. Anthemis. See
Camomile.

CHAPTALIA tomentosa. Hardy her-
baceous perennial. Division. Com-
mon soil.

CH A

139

C H A

CHARCOAL. Soot, a chief consti-
tuent of winch is charcoal, lias long
been known as a very eifective fertil-
izer ; and burning has still longer been
known as a mode of reducing stubborn
soils to prompt productiveness. But
both these sources of fertility might
owe their etliciency to other causes
than their allbrding carbon to plants ;
and it is only within these very few
months that anything like a general
knowledge has been difl'used that mere
charcoal is one of the best of manures.
The fact lias been known for many
years to individuals, as, for example,
to Mr. Barnes, of Bicton ; but it is only
very lately that gardeners generally
have learned, and I am happy in being
able to join my voice to that excellent
cultivator's in announcing, that — char-
coal is a most efficient manure to all
cultivated plants, especially to those
under glass. Heaths, rhododendrons,
cucumbers, roses, orchidaceous plants,
hydrangeas, camellias, melons, and pine
apples, have been the subjects of ex-
tended and most successful experi-
ments. The advocates are too well
known to require more than naming,
for among them are Dr. Lindley, Mr.
Barnes, Mr. jMaund, Mr. Suow of S win-
ton Gardens, Mr. Stewart of Stradsett
Hall Gardens, and Mr. Rivers. I think
no cultivated plant would be unbene-
fited by having charcoal applied to the
soil in which it is rooted. It should be
broken into small pieces, about the size
of a nut, and for potted plants may be
mixed in the proportions of one part
charcoal to twenty parts earth. If ap-
plied to the open ground, one-fourth of
a bushel may be sown over a square
rod, and dug in just before inserting the
crop. The reason of charcoal being so
useful as a manure is very apparent.
MM. Sennebier, Ruckert, Saussure,
and others, have demonstrated that
plants are rendered much more luxuri

long since shown to be otherwise by
Count Runiford ; and may easily be de-
monstrated to be incorrect, by confining
a few ounces of fresh and moistened
charcoal powder, mixed with earth, in
a glass receiver full of oxygen, over
lime water; carbonate of lime will
form, showing the gradual evolution or
carbonic acid. The following com-
munication from Mr. Barnes shows,
that carbonized vegetables are a better
manure for onions than even bone-
dust.

" A piece ofground that was cropped
with colcworts last autumn, (1843,) was
cleared early, and the refuse trenched
in during the winter. 95 feet in length
and 10 feet in width, was planted with
small onions on the 14th of February,
which onions had been sown the se-
cond week of September in the pre-
vious autumn. They were planted in
rows one foot apart, and six inches
from plant to plant — with the intention
of drawing every alternate one for use
through the summer — but the whole
nine rows did not get entirely thinned.
The following is the weight when ripe
for storing on the 1st of August.

" Five rows grown where 4 lbs. of
bone-dust to each row had been sown
in a drill drawn 3 inches deep and
filled up, and the onions planted over
it — producing 420 lbs. weight of onions
— each row yielding from 82 to 8S lbs.

'' The other 4 rows had applied to
them of fresh dry charred refuse and
ashes, made from the garden rubbish-
heap, two common buckets full, weight
14 lbs. They produced 366 lbs. of
onions, the rows weighing respectively
99, 89, 9.3, and S3 lbs. The last row
being injured by a roy of red cabbage
growing near.

'' Many of the foregoing onions,
which were a mixture of the Globe,
Deptford, and Reading, measured in
circumference from 14 to 16.V inches,

ant and productive, by having carbonic ! and weighed as many ounces. I
acid applied to their roots, than other j weighed 12 together, that turned the
plants to whose roots no such applica- scale at 12 lb. 9 oz. I can only fancy
tion was made. Now charcoal kept , what a wonderful saving and benefit it
moist, as when buried in the soil, slow- j would be to the country, to char the
ly combines with oxygen, and emits 1 refuse of old tan, chips, sawdust, ditch
carbonic acid — in fact, it slowly dis- scourings containing sods, weeds,
solves. I am sorry to differ from such bushes, and refuse. By keeping the
an authority as Liebig, who broadly surface of the earth well stirred, no
asserts that -'Carbon never combines j crops appear to suffer by drought that
at common temperatures with oxygen, are manured by charrings, but continue
BO as to form carbonic acid." This was ' in the most vigorous health throughout

C H A

140

CHE

the season, never suffering materially
by either drought or moisture."

On spring sown onions and on tur-
nips, Mr. Barnes finds charred or car-
bonized vegetable refuse equally bene-
ficial. Three rows, each 95 feet long,
of the white globe onion, manured with
bone-dust, weighed 251 lbs.; whilst
three similar rows of the same variety,
and grown under precisely similar cir-
cumstances, but manured with char-
rings, weighed 289 lbs.

CHARD. See Artichoke.

CHARDOON. See Cardoon.

CHARi^'.AS graminis. Antler or
grass moth, has a yellowish-brov/n
head and back — upper wings brownish
grey, appears in July and August. Its
caterpillar brown or blackish, with five
lighter stripes down the back. This
lives at the roots of grasses, and eats
their young blades.

CHASMONIA incisa. Hardy annual.
Seeds. Common soil.

CHEILANTHES. Fourteen species.
Ferns. Green-house, stove or hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division. Peat
and loam.

CHEIMATOBIA brumata. Winter
moth. This is the parent of that
scourge of fruit trees, the greenlooper
caterpillar. It appears in November.
One female will lay 200 eggs, deposit-
ing them on the bends and bark of the
upper branches of the apple and other
fruit trees. The caterpillars appear
with the bursting of the buds, on the
tips of the leaves, petals, and calyxes
of which they feed. They form a small
web within the blossom, and glue and
gnaw its petals so as to destroy it.
When the fruit is formed, that becomes
their favourite ftiod. They descend
and bury themselves in the earth, to
assume the chrysalis form about the

end of May. Frosts in November, ants
and birds, are their natural enemies.
As the females have no wings, a thick
coating of gas-lime sprinkled a foot
broad over tiie surface, round the stems
of fruit trees at the end of October, and
renewed once or twice in November
and December, would prevent their
ascent ; or a broad band of bird lime
might be smeared round the stems
themselves. An advantage of espalier
and dwarf fruit trees is, that their buds
are easily examined for these cater-
pillars and other marauders.

CHEIRANTHUS. Eleven species,
and many varieties. Green-house or
half-hardy evergreen shrubs. C.fruti-
culosus, C. ochroleucus are hardy herba-
ceous perennials. Cuttings. Rich com-
mon soil. See Wallflower.

CHEIROSTEMON ■platanoides .
Stove evergreen tree. Leafy cuttings.
Sandy loam.

CHELIDONIUM. Two species.—
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Di-
vision. Common soil.

CHELONE. Seven species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division. Peat
and loam.

CHENOLEA diffma. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light rich
soil.

CHERLERIA sedoides. Hardy herb-
aceous perennial. Division. Sandy
loam and peat.

CHERMES. See Psylla.

CHERRY. (Cera^us.)

Varieties. — There are eighty in the
London Horticultural Society's list, of
which some are quite inferior and others
scarcely differ except in name. The
following we extract from the Cata-
logue of D. Landreth & Fulton, Phila-
delphia :

CHE

141

Explanation of Abbreviations. — Colour —
y yellow. Size — i, large; m medium; s small.

Those marked * are of American origin

CHE

b black ; 1 light ;

red

NAME.

COLOUR.

FORM.

Id
N

H

Of

SEASON.

Belle deChoisey .

r

round

M

June

* Bleeding Heart .

b

heart

1,

June

Black Tartarian

b

heart

L

June

Carnation

1 r

round

L

July

*Downer's Late Red

1 r

round

L

July

Downton

1 r

round

L

July

Knight's Early Black .

b

round

L

June

Late Duke

r

heart

L

1

July

May Duke, Early

r

heart

L 1

June

Mazzard Black

b

round

S

2

July

Morello, English .

r

heart

L

1

July

Morello, French .

r

heart

L

1

July

Morello, Plumstone

r

heart

L

2

July

Morello, Kentish .

r

heart

L

1

July

*Morello, Rumsey's Late

r

heart

L 1

August

Ox Heart

y «•

heart

L 1

July

White Heart

y «■

heart

L 1

July

Yellow Spanish

r

heart

I, 1

July

The annexed drawings and descrip-
tions of a few valuable varieties may
interest some of our readers.

Fig. 23.

Belle de Choisev. Thomp.: Pom.
Mag. {Cereise Doucette, Cereise Pa-
lembre.) (Fig. 23.) " The Bon Jar-
dinier speaks highly of this variety,

which was produced at Choisey, near
Paris, many years ago. It has proved
hardy and well adapted to this country,
and we can recommend it as among
the very best of its class. The fruit is
middle sized, roundish ; skin red, mot-
tled with amber, exhibiting the flesh

Fig. 24.— (P. 142.)

CHE

142

beneath, which is amber coloured, deli-
cate and sweet. The habit of tlie tree is
not unlike the well known May Duke,
with which it ripens." — Rural Reg.

Carnatio;*. Thomp.: Lind. : Coxe.
(Fig. 24.) "This, though an old, is
still a highly popular variety. Coxe
says, ' one of our most excellent Cher-
ries.' More recently introduced sorts
have divided our attention, but it is
among those most frequently ordered
from the Nurseries. The size is large,
round. Skin beautifully variegated,
red and yellow. It ripens in July, and
hangs long without decaying : highly es-
teemed for preserving." — Rural Reg.

Fig. 25.

DowNTON. Lind. : Thomp. (Fig. 25.)
"The Downton is especially valuable
from its time of ripening, which is after
most good cherries have declined, or
disappeared. The fruit is roundish, of
large size, and of prepossessing appear-
ance. Skin creamy white, red on the
sunny side. Flesh yellowish, rich and
well flavoured." — Rural Reg.

May Duke. Miller; Lind.: Thomp.
(Fig. 26.) It would occupy some
space to enumerate all the English and |
French synonymes of this widely known,
and as widely esteemed variety. Per-
haps the entire catalogue of the London I

Horticultural Society does not contain
one so universally esteemed. Downing
justly remarks, among all the new va-
rieties, none has been found to sup-
plant the May Duke.

The fruit is large, obtusely heart
shaped, produced in clusters; when
perfectly ripe of a deep purple hue.
Flesh tender, juicy, and when in per-
fection, all that can be desired in a

Fig. 27.— (P. 143.)

CHE

143

cherry. Ripens at Philadelphia, latter
end of May and early in June.

Plum Stone Morf.i.lo. Thomp. —
(Fig. 27.) There is some difiVrence of
(ipinion as to the merits of this va-
riety— it has, however, many admirers,
and is on the whole, worthy of culture;
though we cannot pronounce it of first
quality. It ripens late in the season,
possesses good flavour, and has a pre-
possessing appearance, all of which
are desirable properties, and render it
popular. The fruit is large, of a deep
red colour. Flesh juicy and acid, as is
the case with all Morellos. Ripe at
Philadelphia, middle to close of July.

Fig. 28.

cellent, and must always remain a
favourite, even though newer varieties
contest the claim to our esteem. It ia

Fig. 30.— (P. 144.)

Knight's Early Black. Pom. Mag.:
Thorn. (Fig. 28.) " This is, as its
name imports, one of Mr. Knight's
seedlings, raised in England, about |
1810. It is not, externally, unlike the '
Black Tartarian, of which such exagge-
rated descriptions have been given,!
ripens earlier than it — at IMiiladelphia, I
about the 1st of June. The fruit is!
over medium size, heart shaped. Skin
deep purj^e, when fully ripe quite 1
black. Flesh delicate, juicy, and weir
flavoured. Taken altogether it may
be pronounced a cherry of the first
order." — Rural Reg. {

Elton. Pom. Mag. : Thomp. — |
(Fig. 29.) " The Elton is an English I
cherry, raised in 1806. It is truly ex- '

CHE

144

CHE

above the medium size, ripens early,
shortly after the May Duke. The flesh
is tender, abounding in luscious juice ;
skin pale yellow, with a blush on the sun-
ny side. The tree is of strong growth,
and on that account additionally en-
titled to our regard." — Rural Reg.

Late Duke. Pom. Mag. : Thomp.
{June Duke of Coxe. Shippen Cherry.)
(Fig. 30.) " This is a valuable variety,
similar to its predecessor, the May
Duke. It ripens considerably later
than it, and has the property of hang-
ing long on the tree. The fruit is
large, rather flattened ; when fully
ripe, rich dark red ; flesh yellow,
abounding in juice, scarcely so rich as
the May Duke; its habit is robust;
bears abundantly. Coxe calls it the
most valuable cherry of the season." —
Rural Reg.

Propagation. — Although grafting is
sometimes adopted, budding is far pre-
ferable. The stock for standards should
be the wild cherry, but for dwarfs or
walls the mahaleb. If the stones be
sown eitlier for stocks or to raise varie-
ties, they are best committed to the
ground in September. They will vege-
tate the following spring, and when one
year old are fit for budding if dwarfs
are required, but four years usually
elapse before they attain the height of
six feet, required for standards.

Walls. — No fruit is more improved
by a good aspect than the cherry. Allot
a south wail to the best sorts, and east
and west for succession. The Morello
will be productive on a north wall, but on
a south wall it is very superior fruit. No
garden should be without one so grown.

Wall pruning. — In May or June dis-
bud all unnecessary and foreright shoots.
Train in the best-placed, lateral and
terminal shoots as required. When the
leaves have fallen, prune away all ir-
regular, unproductive branches, train-
ing in their place first laterals. Never
shorten a shoot unless absolutely requi-
site from want of space, much less
prune so as to have numerous foreright
spurs. All cherries bear upon very
short studs with a terminal bud, on the
branches from two years old and up-
wards. The Morello bears chiefly on
the previous year's shoots, and very
scantily on studs of the older branches.
The Morello, therefore, requires the
older laterals to be removed as often as
their placea can-be supplied by young

shoots. All studs and foreright shoots
should be removed, especially from the
Morello.

Diseases. — The leaves are liable to be
honey-dewed, especially in ill-drained
soils; but gumming is the most weaken-
ing disease. (See Honey-dew and Ex-
travasated sap.)

The Aphis cerasi, a black species, and
the red spider, sometimes attack the
cherry on walls; and a still rarer enemy
is described as follows, by Mr. Nai-
smith: —

"Our cherry trees, both in the open air
and on the natural walls, particularly the
tops of the young shoots, are much at-
tacked with a small black insect, provin-
cially called the black beetle. The
remedy I have found most effectual for
their destruction is a mixture of pitch
with one-sixteenth part of powdered
orpiment; one-sixteenth part ofsulphur,
dissolved over a slow fire in an earthen
pipkin, until they be well incorporated;
when cold, divide into small pieces,
about the size of a hen's egg, and burn
it under the trees with damp straw, di-
recting the smoke as much as possible
where the insects are most numerous.
In an hour afterwards, (if the state of
the fruit will admit,) give the trees a
good washing with the garden engine,
which generally clears oft" the half dead
beetles, and prevents the spreading of
the red spider." — Enc. Gard.

Forcing. — Mr. G. Shills, of Erskine
House Gardens, says: — " For accelera-
ting the ripening of cherries, I prefer the
open flued wall. The cherries setting
well without artificial assistance, and
ripening in succession from the latter
end of April till the latter end of June or
beginning of July, and with sufficient
rapidity to supply a family with a dish
daily during that period. About the
middle of February, or when the buds
naturally begin to swell, a little fire-heat
is supplied in the evening and in dull
cloudy weather, kept up during the day;
but in bright sunshine the fire is stopped
about nine or ten A. M., and set on again
about two P. M. This practice is fol-
lowed until the middle or Ijtter end of
May, when the fire-heat is discontinued.

"A little before the expansion of the
blossom, which is about the beginning
of March, the net is put over the tree,
by fixing the upper side of it on nails
fastened in the joints of the coping near
the edge, and the under side is tied to

CHE

145

CHI

temporary stakes about three feet in
height, placed three feet from the wall.
About tiie middle of April the woollen
net or double herring-net, together with
the stakes, are taken away, and a single
herring-net put close over the tree, to
protect the ripening fruit from birds."
— Card. Chron.

The trees are trained in the fan form,
with lateral bearing branches of from
one to three feet in length, according
to their strength, trained in between the
principal branches. In all parts of the
tree, these are allowed to continue
several years. When they become bare
of spurs, or inclined to get too luxuri-
ant, they are cut out — young shoots to
supply their place being previously pre-
pared.

CHERVIL, Parsley-leaved. Charo-
phyllum sativum. Fern-leaved chervil,
or Sweet Cicely, C. aromaticum, for
soups, salads, &c. They are still culti-
vated by the Dutch, but in this country
are not often found in the kitchen gar-
den.

Soil and Situation. — The soil for
these plants must be light, with a large
portion of calcareous matter from super-
abundant moisture. The situation can-
not be too open ; but a shelter from the
meridian sun is beneficial.

Time and Modes of Sowing. — The
only sowing that can be depended upon
must be performed in early autumn, im-
mediately after the seed is ripe; for if
kept until the following spring it will
seldom germinate, or the seedlings are
generally weak and die away, during
the hot weather. If, however, it should
fortunately retain its vegetative powers,
it may be sown early in the spring at
short intervals, for use in spring and
summer, and towards the end of .Tuly
for autumn supply. Sow in drills eight
inches apart. The plants are to be
thinned to eight inches asunder, and to
remain where they are raised. The
only after cultivation required by them
is to he kept clear of weeds.

The perennial sort, C. aromaticum,
must be trimmed as directed for Sage.
The leaves are fit to be gathered when
from two to four inches in growth ; in
doing which they should be cut close,
when the phints will shoot afresh.

To obtain Seed. — Some of the autumn-
raised plants must be left ungathered
from; they flower in April, and ripen

their seed about June.
10

species, some must in a like manner be
left untouched; they will flower about
.June, and ripen their seed in July or
August.

CHESTNUT. Fagtts castanea.— In
the London Horticultural Society's list
are twenty varieties enumerated. If the
seedlings arc left ungraftcd, they are
about thirty years before they bear fruit,
but grafts inserted upon these seedling
stocks from bearing branches, afford
blossoms the next year, and are fruitful
much earlier.

Soil. — A dry subsoil is the great re-
quisite for this tree. It thrives best in
a sandy w-ell-drained soil.

After-culture. — No other attention is
required than to thin the over-crowded
and to remove over-wrapping branches.

Nuts. — These are ripe about October.
Thev are best preserved in sand.

CHICORY. See Succory.

CHICKASAW PLUM. Cerasus chi-
casa.

CHILODIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

CHILOGLOTTIS diphylla. Half-
hardy orchid. Division. Light turfy
loam, turfy peat, and sand.

CHIMAPHILA. Two species,
flardy herbaceous perennials. Cuttings.
Peaty soil.

CHIMONANTHUS fragrans, and
varieties. Hardy deciduous shrubs.
Layers or cuttings. Loam and peat, or
any common soil.

CHINA ASTER. CalHstema.

CHINA HOSE. Hibiscus rosasinensis.

CHINESE TRP:E. Ptzonia moutan.

CHIOCOCCA. Two species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

CIIIONANTHUS. Three species.
Hardy and stove deciduous shrubs and
trees. Seeds, buds, or grafts. Peat
and loam.

CHIRONIA. Eleven species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Peat and loam.

C.decussata should be potted in light
rich soil, and liberally watered during
the summer months. Keep it in a good
situation near the glass, where it gets
plenty ol' light and air. Always keep
some young plants to take the places of
the old ones.

CHITONIA. Five species. Stove
evergreen shrubs and trees. Cuttings.

Of the other ' Peat and loam.

CHI

146

CHR

CHIVE or CIVE {Allivm Schano-
prasum). Is used as a very superior
substitute for young onions in spring
saladinp. A single row a few yards
Jong, will supply a family.

Soil. — A light rich soil is most suit-
able, but it vvill grow anywhere not
overshadowed.

Plant the offsets of the bulbs early in
spring. They are to be inserted by the
dibble eight or ten inches apart, and
eight or ten offsets in each hole. The
only cultivation required is to keep
them free from weeds. By autumn they
multiply into large-sized bunches, and
if required may be taken up as soon as
the leaves decay, and be stored as a
substitute for the onion. The leaves,
which are fit for use as long as they
remain green, must, when required, be
cut down close to the ground, when
they will speedily be succeeded by
others.

CHLIDANTHUS fragrans. Green-
house bulbous perennial. Division.
Two-thirds sandy loam, one-third sand
and peat.

CHLOANTHES. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

CHLORA. Two species. Hardy
annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

CHLORANTHUS. Three species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. C. monas-
tachye is herbaceous. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

CHLORIDE OF LIME, or Bleaching
Powder, is composed of

Chlorine 63.23

Lime 36.77

Exposed to the air it is converted into
chalk, and muriate of lime, a salt which
absorbs moisture from the air very
powerfully. By this conversion it be-
comes a useful addition to soils ; and as
it also gives out some chlorine gas, so
offensive and destructive to insects, it
has been suggested as a useful applica-
tion to the land at the time of turnip
sowing.

CHLORODYLON swietenia. Stove
evergreen tree. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

CHOCOLATE-NUT. Theohroma.

CHOISYA ternata. Stove evergreen
shrub. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

CHOKE. Cerasus hyemalis.

CHOMELIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

CHORISPORA tenella, and variety.
Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

CHOROMOZEMA, Eight species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Seeds
or cuttings. Peat, loam, and sand.

CHOU DE MILAN. See Borecole.

CHRISTMAS ROSE. Helleborus
niger.

CHRIST'S EYE. Inula oculus
Christi.

CHRIST'S THORN. Paliitrus.

CHRYSANTHEMUM. C. sinense.
Often designated the Chinese chrysan-
themum.

Varieties of this flower are numerous,
but the following is as good a selection
as can be made. Those to which an
asterisk is prefixed, are most deserving
of attention: —

Abelard, quilled pink.

Achmet Bey, dark purple.

Adventure, yellow.

Annie Jane, brownish red.

Annie Salter, pale yellow.

Aristides, orange and brown.
*Beaute de Verseilles, yellow.

Beauty, pale lilac.

Belvidere, buff and rose.

Bertram, purplish rose.

Bethulia, large purple.

Bicolor, white and yellow.

Bijou, white, tipped with pink.
*Campestroni, purple.
*Celestial, blush.

Champion, lemon.

Chancellor, white and pink.

Changeable, yellow.

Columbus, rose.

Compactum, white.

Comte d'Eu, light red.

Conductor, orange.

Criterion, white.

David, yellow.

De Crequi, small rosy purple.

Defiance, white.

Demosthenes, yellow and brown.
*Duc de Conigliano, crimson.

Duchess de Montebello, light rose.

E.mpress, lilac.
*Exquisite, white.

Flechier, dark rose.

Florabundum, dark lilac.
*Formosum, white and yellow.

General Laborde, lilac.
*Goliath, white. •

Gouvain St. Cyr, orange.
*Grand Napoleon, purple.

Grandish, flesh colour.

Hardy, blush white.

Horace, purplish rose.

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147

CHR

Horatio, fine rosd?

Imogene, light butf.

Imperial, pale lilac.
*Incomparable, large buff.

Invincible, creamy white.

Irene, fine yellow.

Isabella, white.

Isolier, rosy red.

Itobate, shaded rose.

Ivanhoe, brown.
*King, pale rose.

Letitia Buonaparte, blush.

Lamarque, orange.

Leontine, brownish red.

Louis Philippe, purplish lilac.
*Lucidiim, white.

Madame Mina, buff.
*Madame Pompadour, dark rose.
*Magnet, yellow.

Maivina, purple.

Marechal Soult, yellow.

Marie, red.

Marie Antoinette, rose and buff.

Marquis, light rose.

Memnon, creamy white.
*Minerva, pink and white.

Mirabile, white and buff.
*Ne Plus Ultra, white.

Old Purple.

Orion, creamy white.

Perfection, pale lilac.
*Phidias, rosy red.

Phyllis, lemon.

Prince Albert, amaranth.

Princess de Lamalle, rosy lilac.
*Princess Mario, light pink.
*Queen, rose.

Queen Victoria, lilac.

Queen ofGipsies, orange.

Queen of Yellows.

Reine de Prusse, rose.

Rosetla, quilled pink.

Saladin, orange purple.

Sangiiineum, red.

Sappho, reddish brown.

Small, brown.

Solon, yellow.

Surprise, white.

Tasselled Yellow.

Tedjini, yellowish brown.

Timon, yellow.
*Theresia, red.

Triumphant, pink and buff.

Two-coloured Incurved, yellow
brown.

Venusta, amaranth.
*Vesta, white.

Victorine, light rose.
♦Victory, white.

Zelinda, rosy blush.

and

iSo(7. — A warm sheltered well-drain-
ed border, manured with leaf mould
abundantly, lor the out-door plants.
For those in pots, four parts light fresh
turfy loam, four parts leaf mould, and
one part rubbly charcoal.

In Borders, the stools require to be
taken up and divided in early spring,
not more than three suckers being left
united, otherwise the flowers are nu-
merous and small.

By i^uckers in' Pots. — Turn out the
old pots in March ; separate the suckers
by a gentle twist; plant tliree suckers
in a thirty-two pot; shade them and
shelter in a cold frame for about a fort-
night; then expose them to the sun-
shine ; shift into larger pots as they
increase in growth ; place them in a
gentle hot-bed in April, and keep them
under the frame until the middle of
May; when ten inches high, pinch off
the tops of each stem. They will throw
out shoots from each bud ; retain only
six shoots, removing all the others ;
plunge the pots in a sunny sheltered
border; vvater daily in dry weather,
and give liquid guano always once a
week, so soon as the flower buds ap-
pear. Let the pots they flower in be
sixteens, that is, nine inches in diame-
ter at the top. Move them into a very
airy green-house or conservatory, to
bloom.

" The shifting of the plants in the
earlier part of the summer," says a
well-informed writer, " should be par-
ticularly attended to. If this is neglect-
ed, no good after-management will save
them from losing their leaves, and look-
ing badly in autumn and winter. As
soon as they are fairly starting into
growth, the top of each should be nip-
ped with the finger and thumb, which
will cause several shoots to spring from
the under part of the plant, and thus
form it into a compact bush. This may
be repeated two or three times with
advantage in the earlier part of the
season with the free flowering kinds ;
but after the plant is fairly formed it
should be discontinued, otherwise the
flowering will be injured." — Gard.
Cliron.

Cuttings. — The same authority says,
that " the proper time for striking cut-
tings depends upon the objects which
the propagator has in view. Nursery-
men who want a good stock of a par-
ticular kind may propagate it at almost

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any season, and generally begin very There is another plfTi for making small
early in spring. But, for ordinary pur- dsvarf flowering specimens, which de-
poses, from the middle of March to j serves especial notice. The young
the middle of April is quite soon enough; ' shoots which have grown to a consider-
and the amateur can then do so without able length, have their points ' layered'
any artificial heat, which is of great about the month of August, in small
consequence to those who have very pots. As soon as they are well rooted,
limited gardens. they are cut from the parent stock, re-

" It matters very little whether the potted, and placed for a short time in a
cuttings are taken otf with roots or shaded place until they recover. They
without them, as in the latter case they are then subjected to the same treat-
will form them in a few days, and soon ment as the others, and generally flower
begin to grow rapidly. The frame ; on stems about a foot or eighteen inches
should be kept very close, moist, and ! in height." — Gard.Chron. Give liquid
shaded, until the cuttings have formed guano twice a week so soon as the
roots for their support; when this takes tlower buds are well formed,
place, a little air may be admitted grad- j Seed should be saved, and crosses
ually as the plants will bear it, and then ; eff'ected, from semi-double flowers,
afterwards they must be fully exposed." j Mildew. — "At the end of summer
— Gard. Chron. I chrysanthemums are extremely liable to

After-Culture. — " After the flowering
season is past, and the old stems cut
down, the plants should be removed
from the green-house or conservatory.

be infected with mildew. Those plants
upon which it makes its appearance,
should be immediately separated from
the rest, and well dusted with flowers

and placed in a cold frame, where they of sulphur. This should be allowed to
are merely protected from severe frost, remain on them at least a day or two,
Here they should have plenty of air, and may afterwards be washed off" with
and on fine davs the lights should be a syringe or garden engine." — Gard.
drawn quite off, and the plants fully Chron. A very weak solution of corn-
exposed. When the winter is mild,[mon salt syringed repeatedly over the
they will stand very well unprotected ; | leaves, and, after remaining a few
but owing to their having been grown hours, washed off by a syringing with
and excited in the green-house, they pure water, would be equally effectual,
are more apt to suffer from severe CHRYSEIS. Three species. Hardy
weather than if they had been planted tuberous-rooted perennials. Seeds,
out in the open air. For this reason it Rich soil.

is always better to have the means of CHRYSIPHIALA. Four species,
giving them some slight protection. If i Green-house bulbous perennials. Off-
they are kept too close and warm in sets. Light loam.

winter, they begin to grow fast : the 1 CHRYSOCOMA. Fourteen species,
leaves are yellow, and the stems weak, i Hardy herbaceous perennials, and stove
and consequently they form bad cut- j evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Loam
tings when the season of propagation : and peat.

comes round. But if they are merely ; CHRYSOPHYLLUM. Six species,
protected and attended to, as has been | ahd some varieties. Stove evergreen
already described, they grow slowly, ! trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat,
and make excellent cuttings. Those ' CHRYSOSPLENIUM. Three spe-
who wish to make verv large specimens ^ cies. Hardy herbaceous perennials,
of these plants with little trouble, some- j Division. Moist soil.
times plant them out in a rich border i CHRYSOSTEMMA <r/p?fir/.s. Hardy
in April or May, as soon as the cuttings j herbaceous perennial. Division. Peat
are rooted. Here they grow with great I and loam.

luxuriance, and are very large and ! CHYSIS aurea. Stove epiphyte,
bushy, when the time comes for taking I Division. Wood.

them up, and removing them into the j CIBOTIUM Billardieri. Green-house
green-house. In autumn, they are taken evergreen tree fern. Division. Loam
up very carefully, and placed in a shaded and peat.

situation for a few days, until they re- ' CIBOUL, or WELSH ONION. Al-
cover from the effects of the operation, [ //u?« /t.siu/osuOT. This is a perennial,
and are then taken to the green-house. I never forming any bulb, but is sown

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annually, toTje drawn yountr for salads, I Eclipse ; Gem; Nobilis ; Perfficta ;

Queen Victoria; Rival King; Royal
Blue; Sspphire ; Splendida ; Water-
housiana ; and Webberiana.

Characteristics of Excellence. — The
cineraria does not exhibit so much im-
provement as most florists' (lowers.

" The petals should be thick, broad,
blunt, and smooth at the ends, closely
set, and form a circle without much
indentation. The centre, or yellow-
disk, should be less than one-third of
the diameter of the whole flower; in
other words, the coloured circle formed

&c. On account of its strong taste, it
is greatly inferior to the common onion
for this purpose ; but from its extreme
hardness in withstanding the severest
frost, it may be cultivated with advan-
tage as a winter-standing crop for spring
use.

Varieties. — Two varieties are in cul-
tivation, the white and the red; the
first of which is in general use.

Cultivation. — As it may be sown at
all times with the onion, and is simi-
larly cultivated, except that it may be

sown thicker, and only thinned as by the petals should be wider all round
wanted, the direction given for that than the disk measures across. The
vegetable will suffice. The blade usu- colour should be brilliant, whether
ally dies away completely in winter, but shaded or self; or if it be a white it
fresh ones are thrown out again in Feb- j should be very pure.

ruary or March.

To obtain Seed. — To obtain seed

The trusses of flower should be
large and close, and even on the sur-

some of the roots must be planted out face, the individual flowers standing
in March, six or eight inches asunder. | together with their edges touching each
The first autumn they will produce but other, however numerous thev may be.
little seed; in the second and third, ' The plant should be dwarf. The stems

however, it will be produced abundant-
ly. If care is taken to part and trans-
plant the roots every two or three years,
they may be multiplied, and will re-
main productive for many years, and
afibrd much better seed than that from
one-year-old roots.

Scallions. — There is good reason for
concluding that by a confusion of names,
arising from similarity of appearance,

strong, and not longer than the width
across the foliage ; in other words,
from the upper surface of the truss of
the flower to the leaves where the
stem starts from should not be a greater
distance than from one side of the foli-
age to the other." — Hort. Mag.

Propagation hy Seed. — " Sow in May
in the open border; thin out the plants
where they are crowded, and transplant

this vegetable is the true scallion, whilst | them when they have three good leaves,
the hollow leek of Wales is the true I and pot them to remain in October." —
Welsh onion ; for the description of; Card. Chron.

scallion, as given by Miller, accords I Propagation by Cuttings. — "After
exactly with that of the Welsh onion, the bloom has perfected itself and de-
At present all onions that have refused j caved, cut down the stems, stir the
to bulb, and formed lengthened necks j earth upon the surface, then earth up
and strong blades in spring and sum- i with fresh compost, filling the pot

mer, are called scallions.

CICCA disticha.
fruit tree. Leafy
loam.

CIMICIFUGA. Four species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division. Seeds.
Common soil.

CINCHONA. Two species. Stove
evergreen tree and shrub. Ripe cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

CINERARIA. Fifty-four species.
ChieHy hardy and green-house herba-
ceous ; but some green-house ever-
green shrubs. It is a genus of florists'

rather full than otherwise ; refresh the

Stove evergreen | plants with a little water, and place

cuttings. Sandy i them in the frame again ; or if you have

none convenient, in a dry and sheltered

place in the garden.

" The growth of a few weeks will
enable you to detect side shoots, some
with roots, and some without roots, and
leave only the main plant in the pot,
which should be earthed up again, and
set by. The shoots which have no
roots to them should be stripped of two
or three of the bottom leaves, that they

ay be placed in a pot of the usual sort

flowers, and the varieties which they of compost that the plant may have
have raised are very numerous. A been growing in, with a little sand at
good selection is the following: — [ top, say a quarter of an inch thick, and

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covered with a bell glass ; or if there
be enough, they may be placed a dozen
or two in a large pan, and a glass that
will fit inside the rim, covered over
them. They must never be allowed to
dry. The glasses should be occasion-
ally wiped dry inside. Whether there
be one cutting or a dozen, they should
be so placed that the glass can be
pressed into the sand to keep out the
air until they have all struck.

" They can always be watered with-
out disturbing the glass, if it be pro-
perly placed inside the rim, because by
watering over the glass, the whole can
be soaked ; but the drainage must be
good, or they will rot.

" If you happen to have a declining
hot-bed in which there remains a little
bottom heat, the pan or pots maybe
placed therein. It will rather hasten
the striking. Those side-shoots which
have roots to them may be immediately
potted into sixty-sized pots, and treated
the same as seedlings just potted off.
In a few weeks the cuttings will have
struck, which will be indicated by their
beginning to grow ; they may be potted
oft' also, as seedlings are potted, in
sixty-sized pots. Here the treatment
is just the same as that directed for
seedlings." — Hort. Mag.

After-Culture. — "About the first
week in June, the plants being removed
from the green-house, and turned out
of their pots, the old earth shaken from
their roots, plant rather deeply, and
about eighteen inches apart in light
rich soil in the open garden, and water
as often as they seem to require it.
By the end of July, they throw up
myriads of suckers; they are then taken
up and parted, preserving ihe smallest
atom that has a root to it. The largest
plants are potted in pots proportionate
to their size, in a compost consisting of
leaf mould, rotten dung, and strong
turfy loam, in about equal quantities,
and placed in a shady situation. These
will flower in September and October,
and will do well either for the house,
or for filling up beds, or vacancies in
the flower garden. The other plants
are replanted in the open garden, wa-
tered, and shaded until established,
taken up with balls, and potted about
the end of October, and protected from
frost in a cold frame or pit through the
winter. In this manner, and by keep-
ing plants of various sizes, a regular

supply of flowers maybe Iftid from Sep-
tember to the end of June. Single
plants in thirty-two or twenty-four-sized
pots are large enough. No plants suf-
fer so much from being crowded toge-
ther; indeed, when short of room it is
better to throw away a few plants than
have the whole cramped for room." —
Gard. Chron.

Winter-blooming. — ''• When the cine-
rarias have done flowering, cut off" all
the flower-stems and old leaves, and
place them in a cold pit or frame, which
must be kept rather close for two or
three weeks to cause the plants to grow;
afterwards admit air freely by day, but
keep them close at night ; then about
the beginning of August divide the old
plants into pieces, and put them into
small pots filled with a mixture of good
loam and sandy peat, to which may be
added a small portion of well-rotted
dung. When potted, return them to
the pit or frame, and keep them close;
afterwards, as they grow, shift them
into larger pots, and use a little manure-
water ; and finally, as the danger of
frost approaches, remove them to the
green-house, where they will bloom well
all the winter and spring, if kept free
from insects." — Gard. Chron.

CINNAMOMUM. Cinnamon. Ele-
ven species. Stove evergreen trees.
Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat.

CINNAMON. Cinnamomum.

CION. See Scion.

CIRCiEA. Three species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Offsets. Com-
mon soil.

CIRCUMPOSITION differs from lay-
ering, only that in this the shoot to be
rooted is bent down to the soil, whilst
in circumposition the soil is placed in
a vessel and raised to the shoot. There
are pots called layering pots made for
this practice, and diftering from the
common garden pot, only by having a
section about an inch broad cut through
one side, and to the centre of the bot-
tom, for the admission of the shoot or
branch.

M. Foulup employs " small tin cases
of a conical form, like the upper part
of a funnel, two and three-quarter
inches in length, and two and a sixth
inches in width at top, narrowing to-
wards the lower part till only sufficient
room is left for the introduction of the
shoot or branch intended to be propa-
gated. These cones are supported on

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rods, to which they are securRil by wire.
Commencing with the central branches,
the leaves are taken froin the parts
which the tin is intended to inclose;
the branch is cut two-thirds through as
in layering, and being enclosed by the
funnel, the latter is well packed with
moss. Moisture necessary lor favour-
ing the emission of roots is supplied by
means of a bottle, from which the bot-
tom is struck off, and the neck furnished
with a cork, perforated so as to admit
a small pigeon's feather or bit of wool
to form a syphon, by means of which
the moss is kept in a proper state of
moisture. Hard-wooded plants are pro-
pagated in this way from the middle of
May till the end of June ; and the
branches are sullicicntly rooted to be
taken off by the end of September. It
is, however, necessary in all cases, to
ascertain whether the branches are suffi-
ciently rooted previously to their being
separated. This is easily done by open-
ing up the edges of the tin ; when the
branches are found to be sufficiently
rooted they are potted off without re-
moving the moss by which the roots
are surrounded. Being moderately
watered, they are immediately placed
under glass on a slighthot-bed, and kept
shut up for a fortnight. They are then
gradually exposed, and afterwards
placed in the shade of large trees, so
that only half the rays of the sun shall
reach them." — Card. Chron.

ClKRllJF.A. Six species. Stove
epiphytes. Division. Wood.

CIRROPETALUM.

>cvcn species.

Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood.

C I R S I U M. Eighty-six species.
Hardy annuals, biennials, and herbace-
ous perennials. Seeds or division.
Common soil.

CISSAMPELOS. Six species. Stove
or green-house climbers. Cuttings.
Sandy peat.

CISSUS. Seventeen species. Stove
or green-house evergreen climbers.
Cuttings. Light rich soil.

CISTERNS for the accumulation of
rain-water should be formed in connec-
tion with the gutters of the various
buildings in the gardens, for no water
is equal to it for the artificial supply of
moisture to plants.

CISTUS. Thirty-nine species and
varieties. Hardy evergreen shrubs.
Layers or ripened cuttings. Common
soil.

C I T H A R E Y L U M. Nine species.
Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

CITRON. Citrus.

CITRUS. Fourteen species. Green-
house evergreen fruit trees or shrubs,
budding or grafting, and sometimes
cuttings. Rich loamy soil mixed with
dung.

For the structure of a house suitable
for their cultivation, see Orangery.
The following extracts from an essay
by Mr. Jones, gardener at Knowsley,
exhibits the successful practice in cul-
tivating this genus, pursued by Mr.
Burden, gardener at Hurst Plouse, Lan-
cashire.

Varieties. — Those who wish to culti-
vate the orange tree for the sake of the
fruit, ought to be very careful in making
a selection of sorts, especially of sweet
oranges.

The best way, perhaps, is to procure
grafts or young plants from such varie-
ties as have proved themselves to be
good in other establishments, or proved
plants from a nursery.

So/7. — Too much attention cannot be
paid to the soil ; its principal features
ought to bo lightness, richness, and
openness of texture, and unless it pos-
sess these qualities it is unfit for the
orange tribe.

Water. — This must at all times be
sparingly administered, especially if
the trees are kept in a high moist tem-
perature. Occasionally give a little
weak liquid manure.

Temperature. — Itisdoubtless an erro-
neous opinion, that if the atmospheric
temperature is S^ to 10^ above the
freezing point during winter, and is
never allowed to rise above 70^ or 80°
during summer, that the orange tribe,
other circumstances being flivourable,
may be cultivated successfully. Mr.
Durden never allows the temperature
of his house to fiill below 50^ during the
winter season, and during summer
retains a moist atmosphere of 80o or
903,

After-Culture. — In pruning, if the
plants are trained on trellises, the
branches should be kept thin to allow
the greater part of the leaves to be ex-
posed to the sun. The fruit is generally
produced at the tips of the small spurs
or brackets; therefore it would be a
positive injury to the crop to shorterv
any of these spurs, except it is desirable

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CL A

to increase their number. The opera- j plants to two feet apart. The sowing

tion of pruning is performed at any time I must be annual. Seed may be saved

when it appears to be necessary, always, i by allowing some plants to run up the

however, taking care to have a sue- ' next spring; they ripen their seed in

cession of young wood coming in. In September.

thinning the fruit, particular attention] CLAUSEN Apewiap/ii/Z/a. Stove ever-

ought to be paid to the state of the tree, green tree. Cuttings. Rich loam,

for the quantity of fruit must be entirely j CLAVIJA. Two species. Stove

regulated by the vigour of the tree ; no ; evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and

better rule can be laid down than that : loam.

for governing the operation of thinning. I CLAY is a constituent of all fertile

If a tree appears debilitated in the soils, though in these it rarely exceeds
extreme, it must not be allowed to carry one-sixteenth part, and generally bears
any fruit for an entire season. i a much smaller relative proportion to

One cause of debility is, allowing the ; the other constituents. In its pure
fruit to remain long after it is ripe. Of j state it is known as alumina. It is the
that required for confectionary purposes best of all additions to light, unretentive
a larger quantity may be lett on the soils, for it retains moisture much more
trees, but it must always be propor- ' powerfully than any other earth. M.
tioned to the capabilities of the tree. j Schubler found, that when silicious sand

Cleaning the Plants. — The greatest | lost eighty-eight parts of moisture, and
attention should be paid to cleanliness ; ; chalky sand seventy-six, stiff clay in the

the consequences of allowing insects to
overrun a collection of plants are fami-
liar to every one acquainted with gar-
dening.

" The aphis attacks the tender shoots

same time lost only thirty-five parts.
When clay has to be conveyed in large
quantities, and to a distance, it should
be dug and laid exposed in rough spits
to the air for several days before it is

and young leaves; the red spider the J carted, and, indeed, so should all earths;

more advanced foliage; and the coccus
hesperidum every part of the plant.

" Almost every gardener has his pe-
culiar nostrum for destroying these ani-
mals ; but a good preventive is cleanli-
ness in everything about the plants.

" The coccus may be brushed off,
using a brush that is no harder than is
just necessary to remove the insect.

" For the thrips red spider, and aphis,
a sponge and clean water will remove
them all, if used before the insects have
become very numerous.

" Fumigation should never be re-
sorted to except in extreme cases.

for, as Mr. Ciithbert Johnson states
his valuable Farmer^s Encyclopedia, if
one hundred cubic yards of chalk, clay,
or marl have to be moved, by drying
previously they will lose in weight as
follows : —

Chalk . , 20 to 24 tons.

Clay . , 32 " 42 "

Marl . . ]8 •' 26 "

For the improvement of clay lands,

by rendering their staple less retentive,

burning some of their own soil is an

efficient application. One hundred tons

per acre for this purpose are not too

many ; for a dressing as a manure, thirty

" The leaves should also be cleaned tons are a good quantity. Tiie follow
with a damp sponge as often as they ing is the mode of burning clay,
appear clogged by dust adhering to the ! " Let sods be cut of a convenient
resinous exudations on their surface." — size to handle, say a foot wide and

{Card. Chron. — Gard. Almanack.)

CLADANTHUS. Two species.
Hardy annual and half hardy evergreen
shrub. Seeds. Common soil.

CLARKIA. Three species and va-
riety. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Com-
mon soil.

CLARY. (Salvia sclarea.) Its leaves

eighteen inches in length ; with these
form a parallelogram or long square;
let the walls be a couple of feet thick,
and trampled or beaten firmly together,
and raised at least three feet high ; the
first heap should be so situated, that the
wind may blow against one of its sides;
it may be from four to six yards long,

are sometimes used in soups and medi- I by three yards wide, and an aperture
cated wines. A very small number of j within one yard of each end, and others
plants are sufficient for a family. Sow j at a distance of about five feet from
early in April, or a month earlier in these should be left in the side walls,
any light-soiled border. Thin the | when building, for the purpose of form-

CL A

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C L I

ing drain-like openings across the heap;
make one of these drain-like openings
from end to end in lengtli; these funnels
are to be built also with sods ; some dry
turf, such as is used for fuel, is to be
put into these funnels and over it, and
between the funnels well-dried sods or
any other combustible materials are to
be laid on to the depth of a couple of
feet over these sods, partially dried to
the level of the walls ; these materials
being set on tire, a powerful heat will
be produced, quite capable of burning
clay, without previously drying it. Care,
however, will be necessary to avoid
throwing it on in too great a quantity
at once, until the fire is well up, when
a large quantity may be thrown on. The
sod walls are to be raised as the heap
rises; and as soon as it is perceived by
the strength of the smoke and glow of
heat, that the mass is ignited in all its
parts, the apertures may be closed up,
and the heap left to become charred ;
should appearances indicate a likeli-
hood of the fire being smothered, it
will only become necessary to open one
or more of the funnels to secure its
acting. If the land on which the burned !
or charred clay is to be applied be defi-
cient in calcareous matter, earth con-
taining it, if burncti, would improve it
much. If well done, there is no im- 1
provcnient so cheap, and at the same '
time so valuable; if, on the other hand,j
the burning is hurried, or the fires neg-
lected, the consequence will be, either
the clay will be burned into lumps like
brick ends that will not fall to pieces
when e.xposed to the air, or the clay I
will not be charred or burned at all ;
therefore, the heat should always be
slow and steady, never, if possible,
burning the clay red, but black. This
is difficult to manage, depending.much
upon the wind, stopping up the aper-
ture upon the windward side, and open-
ing that on the other side. The whole
time the heaps are burning will take
from two to three months, the time de-
pending much on the weather ; from
sixty to one hundred yards may be
burned in a heap ; and if there be not
sufficient sod, coarse turf, bushes, &c.,
on the spot to keep up a sufficient body
of fire at the commencement, wood of
any kind, or small coal, must be used."
— Gard. Chron. \

Clay soils are the worst that can be j
for gardens, for there is scarcely one of'

the crops there cultivated that is not in-
jured by stagnant water, which can
scarcely be prevented in clay soils at
some seasons ; and in wet weather
clayey soils cannot be worked, whereas
the gardener must be inserting or at-
tending to his crops every day.

CLAYTONIA. Fifteen species. Har-
dy annuals or tuberous-rooted peren-
nials. Seeds. Peat soil.

CLEMATIS. Fifty species, and
many varieties, chiefly climbers. The
stove and green-house species grow
well in a light loam and peat soil, and
increase from cuttings. The hardy her-
baceous kinds, divisions. The hardy
deciduous, layers. Common soil.

CLEOME. Twenty species. Stove
or hardy annuals, biennials, or ever-
green shrubs. Cuttings or seeds. Rich
light soil.

CLEONIA lusitanica. Hardy annual.
Seeds. Common soil.

CLERODENDRUM. Forty species.
Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs. C.
volubile, a climber. Cuttings. A rich
soil of loam, rotten dung, and sandy
peat.

CLETHRA. Nine species. Hardy
deciduous or stove green-house ever-
green shrubs. Cuttings. Peat earth, or
light sandy loam. The hardy kinds in-
crease also by layers.

CLEYERA japonica. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy
peat.

CLIANTHUS j)«nife«s. Half hardy
evergreen shruD. Cuttings. Loam,
peat, and sand.

CLICK-BEETLE. See Wireworm.

CLIDEMIA. Twelve species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

CLIFFORTIA. Sixteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings of the young wood. Peat and
loam.

CLIMATE controls the growth of
plants most imperatively, and in the
cultivation of his fruits, flowers, and
culinary vegetables, it forms the first
object of the gardener's inquiry. He
must first know the climate in wliich
any givien plant is native ; and second-
ly, the soil which it affects, Ocfore he
can cultivate it successfully. How all-
influential is climate appears from the
fact, that different countries have often
a totally different Flora on soils similar
in constitution. Thus, as is observed

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C LI

by Decandolle and Sprengel, in The scarcely eighteen degrees of longitude
Philosophy of Plants, "there are a from the west of Africa, and which lies
great many perfect plants which ex- , a little further south than Congo, has
clusively belong to the tropics, which yet no plants, which are tound in those
never pass beyond them, and which arc last-named regions. (Roxburgh's List
found equally in Asia and Africa, in of Plants seen in the Island of St. He-
America and the South Sea Islands, and lena, appended to Beatson's Island of
even in New Holland. Although, as St. Helena.) Japan has a great many
we have said, these are rather families, plants common to Southern Europe,
as Palma; Scitaminea;, JNIuses, Sapin- which, however, are not found in those
deae, and Anoneae ; or genera, as Epi- regions of Asia that lie under the same
dendrum, Santalum, Olax, Cymbidium, latitude.

and so forth; yet there are particular We must further remark, that the

species, which grow in all parts of the eastern countries of the old world, and

world only between the tropics, as for the eastern shores of America, as far as

instance, Heliotropium Indicum, Age-
ratuni conyzoides, Pistiae stratiotes,
Scoparia dulcis, Guilandina Bonduc,
Sphenoclea; zeylanica, Abrus precato-
rius, Boerhavia mutabilis, and so forth.

the Alleghany Mountains, have a much
lower temperature than the western
regions ; and that it is always colder in
Siberia and the north-east of Asia, than
under the same latitude in Europe

But most commonly there are other and, that even Petersburgh is colder
species, which, under the same degree , than Upsal, and Upsal than Christiania ;
of latitude, supply in the new world the j although they all three lie in the six-
place of related species in the old. | tieth degree of north latitude. In
Dryas octopetala, indeed, grows equal- North America the ditference is still
ly upon the mountains of Canada, and greater, and there are commonly fifteen
in Europe; but Dryas tenella of Pursh, degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer
which is very like the former, grows, between the temperature of the east
only in Greenland and Labrador. In- j and west coast. It hence happens that
stead of the Platanus Orientalis, there ! many plants which in Norway grow
grows in North America the Platanus , under the polar circle, scarcely reach

Occidentalis; instead of Pinus Cembra
in Europe and Asia, there grows in
North America Pinus Strobus ; instead
of Prunus Laurocerasus,in Asia Minor,
there growls under the same latitude in
North America the Prunus Caroliniana.

the sixtieth degree, on the limits be-
tween Asia and Europe. To this class
belong the Silver Fir, Mountain Ash,
Trembling Poplar, Black Alder, and
Juniper. Even in the temperate zone,
the vegetation of many trees ceases

There are many exceptions to this rule, sooner in the east than in the west. In

however, depending on circumstances
that have been already noticed. In the
first place, countries are wont to share
their Floras with neighbouring regions,
especially islands lying under the same
latitude, as the Azores possess the
Floras of Europe and of Northern Af-
rica, rather than those of America, be-

Lithuania and Prussia, under the fifty-
third degree, neither vines nor peaches
nor apricots thrive : at least their fruit
does not ripen, as also happens in the
middle of England. The most remark-
able example of this great difference of
temperature is furnished by the Mespi-
lus Japonica, which grows at Nanga

cause they are scarcely ten degrees of 'Sacki, and Jeddo, under the thirty-third
longitude from the coast of Portugal. I and thirty-sixth degrees of north lati-
Sicily, and, still more,Maita, possesses a i tude ; and which also grows in the open
Flora made up of those of the South ofj air in England, under the fifty-second
Europe and the North of Africa. The degree of north latitude, when it is
Aleutian Islands share their Flora with I planted against a wall. — Botanical Re-

the north-west coast of America, and
the north-east of Asia. But the most!

^iste)-, Vol. V.
The same degree of latitude in the

distant countries, lying under the same southern and northern hemisphere, are
latitude, may have the same or a simi- j connected with very different tempera-
lar vegetation, while countries or isl- tures, and produce a completely differ-
ands which lie between them, have not ent vegetation. This, however, must
the least share in this particular Flora, i be understood rather of the temperate
The island of St. Helena, which is | and frigid zones, than of the tropical

CLI

15c

C L I

climates, which, as we have already no-
ticed, are pretty much the same over
the whole earth. But the summer is
shorter in the southern hemisphere, be-
cause the motion of the earth in her
perigee is more rapid. The summer
is there also colder, because the
greater quantity of ice over the vast
extent of sea requires more heat for dis-
solving it than can be obtained ; as also
because the sunbeams are not reflected
in such quantity from the clear surface
of the sea water, as to afford the proper
degree of heat. It thence happens that
in the southern hemisphere the Flora of
the pole extends nearer the equator,
than in the northern. Under the 53d
and 54th degrees of latitude, we meet
with plants which correspond with the
Arctic Flora. In Magellan's Land, and
in Terra del Fuego, Betula antarctica
corresponds with Betula nana in Lap-
land ; Empctrum rubrum with Empe-
trum nigrum — Arnica oporina with Ar-
nica montana — Geum Magellanica with
Geum rivale in England — Saxifraga
Magellanica with Saxifraga rivularis in
Finmark. Instead of Andromeda tetra-
gona and hypnoides of Lapland, Terra !
del Fucgo produces Andromeda myrsi- ■
nites ; in place of Arbutus alpina and {
Uva ursi of the Arctic polar circle,'
Terra del Fuego produces Arbutus mu-
cronata, microphylla, and pumila. Aria
antarctica reminds us of the Ilolcus al-
pina of Wahlenburgh ; and Pinguicula
antarctica recalls to our recollection
Pinguicula alpina. We must recollect,
however, that in South America the
great mountain chains of the Andes
stretch from the tropical regions, al-
most without interruption, to the Straits
of Magellan (from the 52d to the 53d
degree of S. lat.), and that, on this ac-
count, tropical forms are seen in that
frigid southern zone, because the tract
of mountains everywhere determines
vegetation. It is hence that the straits
of Magellan are prolific of Coronaria;,
Onagra;, Dorstenia;, and Heliotropia;, '
which in other parts of the world grow
only within the tropics, or in their
neighbourhood. In general the vege-
tation of the southern hemisphere is
very different from that of the northern;
and there is a certain correspondence
between the Floras of Southern Africa,
America, and New Holland, ^^st of
the trees are woody with stiff llaves,
blossoms sometimes magnificent, but

fruit of little flavour. In Southern Af^
rica, as well as in New Holland, it is
the form of the Protea; which prevails,
as if appropriated to these regions. In-
stead of the South American Erica;, we
find the Epacrida; of New Holland ; Lo-
belia;, Diosma;, and a great number of
rare forms of compound blossoms and
of umbellata;, are common to all these
southern regions."

Now, the reason for these differences
is, that the countries thus contrasted
differ in climate — that is, they differ in
the intensity and duration of light and
heat they enjoy — they differ in the con-
trast of their day and night tempera-
tures— they differ in the relative length
of the day and night — they differ in the
length of their summer and winter, or,
which is synonymous, in the relative
length of their periods of vegetable ac-
tivity and rest — they differ also in the
amount of rain which falls, not only an-
nually, but at particular seasons — they
differ in having much atmospheric moist-
ure deposited in the form of rain or
dew, or snow, at different periods of
vegetable activity or rest. Now, what-
ever these differences are, whatever
the peculiarities of a climate are from
which a plant comes, the gardener can-
not cultivate it successfully unless he
secures to that plant those climatal dif-
ferences and peculiarities.

CLIMBERS are plants which attach
themselves to supporters by their natu-
ral appendages, as either by their ten-
drils or by their hooks.

CLINO PODIUM. Three species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division
or seeds. Common soil.

CLINTONIA. Two species. An-
nuals. C. elegans may be sown where
it is to remain in the open borders, but
C. pulchella requires its seedlings to be
raised in a green-house or under a
frame. — " If it is sown as soon as the
seed is ripe, in two-thirds leaf mould,
and one-third common soil, with a little
sand, care being taken to make the soil
firm enough to prevent the seed from
being dislodged in watering ; where it
is intended to have beds of it in the
flower garden, it may be planted out in
the beginning of March : none of the
frosts that happen after that time will
injure it.

" If the seedlings were planted out
in the autumn, early enough to take
root in the soil before the winter, there

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C LU

is no doubt they would prove as hardy
as any of the Californian annuals, and,
like them, succeed better in that way,
than if sown or planted out in the
spring." — Gard. Chron.

CLIPPING hedges should be confined

search the fruit trees for the bands of
eggs laid on the branches, and to crush
them. In May, when the caterpillars
are living in society, the nests contain-
ing them should be collected and de-
stroyed. Care must be taken when col-

to those of the commonest and hardiest : lecting the nests, for if the caterpillars
varieties of shrubs, as those of hawthorn | are much disturbed, they let themselves
and privet. The shears may, however, ! down to the ground by means of a thin

be used with great advantage by expert
operators, even on the most delicate
plants used for ornamental hedges.
Clipping of deciduous hedges is most
advantageously performed in the spring
and early summer. A multitude of
shoots are then induced, which secures
that chief desideratum in hedges — thick-
ness and closeness of texture.

CLISIOCAMPA neustria, the Lacky
Moth, dies only at night. It appears
about .luly, and its eggs are laid round
the twigs of trees in the form of a broad
band of about three hundred eggs,
closely glued together, and resembling
a ring of seed lac. The caterpillars
striped longitudinally blue, red, and
yellow, appear from these in the April
or May following. They congregate
in large nests at the forks of the small
branches, and are then easily crushed

silken thread, and escape. In July
their cocoons should be looked for on
the trees between the leaves, in the
roofs of sheds, and even on the tops of
walls." — Gard. Chron.

C L I T 0 R I A. Thirteen species.
Chiefly stove or green-house evergreen
climbers. C. mariana is a lialf hardy
deciduous. Cuttings, seeds. Loam,
peat, and sand.

C LI VI A nobilis. Green-house ever-
green bulbous plant. Division, seeds.
Rich sandy loam.

CLOUDBERRY. Rubus chammnorus.

CLOVE. Dianthiis caryophyUus.

CLOVER TREE. CaryophyUus.

CLOWESIA rosea. Stove shrub.
Cuttings. Rich loam.

CLUB ROOT. See Amhiiry.

CLUMPS when close are sometimes
called Thickets, Vind when open Groups

en masse. They enter the chrysalis j 0/ Trees. They differ only in extent

state at the end of June, and then they
are to be found in cocoons between two
leaves, &c.

" In June they are full grown and
about an inch in length, gray striped
with blue, red, and yellow, and having
but few hairs. The caterpillar spins
between two leaves a thin web of an
oval form, and it becomes a longish
brown pupa, in which state it remains
for three weeks or a month. In July
the moth appears, which in size and
colour, is not unlike the silkworm moth.
Its colour is light yellow, and some-
times dark olive colour. The upper
wings are banded, and the lower wings
are generally of a uniform brownish
colour. The male is readily known
from the female, by its strongly pecti-
nated antennae and thinner body. The

rom a wood, if they are close, or from
a grove, if they are open ; they are small
woods, and small groves, governed by
the same principles as the larger, after
allowances made for their dimensions.
But besides the properties they may
have in common with woods, or with
groves, they have others peculiar to
themselves. They are either indepen-
dent or relative; when independent,
their beauty as single objects is solely
to be attended to ; when relative, the
beauty of the individuals must be sacri-
ficed to the effect of the whole, which
is the greater consideration. The least
clump that can be, is of two trees ; and
the best effect they can have, is, that
their heads united should appear one
large tree ; two, therefore, of different
species, or seven or eight of such shapes

insect flies only at night, and conse- I as do not easily join, can hardly be a
quently is rarely seen. It often appears beautiful group, especially if it have a
iu considerable numbers, and does not tendency to a circular form. Such
confine its ravages to fruit trees, but j clumps of firs, though very common,
attacks many other trees ; such as are seldom pleasing ; they do not com-
beeches, elms, poplars, oaks, and even j pose one mass, but are only a contiised
pines. The best means of lessoning j number of pinnacles. The confusion
the devastationscommitted by the insect is, however, avoided by placing them
is, in the winter season, carefully to ; in succession, not in clusters; and a

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C N E

clump of such trees is therefore morel thicket to open plantations, be frequent
agreeable when it is extended rather in and sudden, the disorder is more suited

length than in breadth.

Three trees tocether must form either

to rude than to elegant scenes.

The occasions on which independent

right line or a triangle; to disguise clumps may be applied are many. They

the regularity, the distances should be are often desirable as beautiful objects

very different. Distinctions in their in themselves ; they are sometimes ne-

shapes contribute also to the same end ; cessary to break an extent of lawn, or

nnd variety in their growths still more, a continued line, whether of ground or

When a straight line consists of two of plantation; but on all occasions, a

trees nearly similar, and of a third much jealousy of art constantly attends them,

lower than they are, the even direction which irregularity in their figure will

in which they stand is hardly dis-
cernible. I
If humbler growths at the extremity
can discompose the strictest regularity,
the use of it is thereby recommended

not always alone remove. Though ele-
vations show them to advantage, yet a
hillock evidently thrown up on purpose
to be crowned with a clump, is artificial
to a degree of disgust; some of the

upon other occasions. It is, indeed, the trees should therefore be planted on
variety peculiarly proper for clumps : i the sides to take off that appearance,
every apparent artifice affecting the ob- i The same expedient may be applied to
jects of nature, disgusts; and clumps clumps placed on the brow of a hill.

are such distinguished objects, so liable
to the suspicion of having been left or
placed on purpose to be so distinguish-
ed, that, to divert the attention from
these symptoms of art, irregularity in
the composition is more important to
them, than to a wood or to a grove.
Being also less extensive, they do not
admit so much variety of outline ; but

to interrupt its sameness; they will
have less ostentation of design if they
are in part carried down either de-
clivity.

A line of clumps, if the intervals be
closed by others beyond them, has the
appearance of a wood, or of a grove ;
and in one respect the semblance has
an advantage over the reality in dif-

variety of growths is most observable ' ferent points of view ; the relations be

in a small compass, and the several
gradations may often be cast into beau-
tiful figures.

tween the clumps are changed, and a
variety of forms is produced, which no
continued wood or grove, however

The extent and the outline of a wood broken, can furnish. These forms can-
or a grove, engage the attention more ' not all be equally agreeable, and too
than the extremities; but in clumps | anxious a solicitude to make them every-
these last are of the most consequence ; where pleasing, may, perhaps, prevent
they determine the form of the whole, i their being ever beautiful,
and both of them are generally in sight: The effect must often be left to
great care should therefore be taken to I chance, but it should be studiously con-
make them agreeable and different. . suited from a few principal points of
The ease with which they may be com- view ; and it is easy to make any recess,
pared, forbids all similarity between any prominence, any iigure in the out-
them ; for every appearance of equality line, by clumps thus advancing before,
suggests an idea of art, and therefore a or retiring behind one another." —
clump as broad as it is long, seems less Whateley.

the work of nature than one which
stretches into length.

Another peculiarity of clumps is the loam

CLUSIA. Four species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Light sandy

facility with which tliey admit a mixture
of trees and of shrubs, of wood and of
grove; in short, of every species of plan-
tation. None are more beautiful than
those which are so composed. Such
compositions are, however, more proper
in compact than in straggling clumps ;
they are most agreeable when they tori'.i

CLUYTIA. Twelve species. Green-
house or stove evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

CLYPEOLA. Two species. Hardy
annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

CNEORUM. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat

one mass. If the transitions from very ''''" loam.

lofty to very humble growths, from i CNESTIS. Three species. Stove

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158

COC

fests that fruit, the hibiscus, justitia,

" C. adonidum. Mealy Bug. This
feeds on tropical plants, with which it
hasbeen introduced into our hot-houses,
especially Coffee, Cestrum, Justicia,
Carina, Musa, Renealmia, (^-c. ; but it
also is very injurious to the vine and
pine-apple.

" C. testubo. Turtle Scale. This is
found chiefly on stove plants requiring
a high temperature. The scale is oval,
very convex, and dark brown." — Gard.

evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy
peat.

COAL. See Fuel.

COAL ASHES. Sgk Ashes.

COBffiA scandens. Half hardy ever-
green climber. Seeds or cuttings. Peat
and loam.

COBURGHIA. Three species. Green-
house and half hardy bulbous peren-
nials. Division. Peat and loam.

COCCINELL.E. Lady Birds. There
are about thirty species of this useful
and beautiful insect. Let no one de-
stroy a coccinella, for it is the greatest Chron.

destroyer of the plant louse or aphis. ! C. Vitis. Vine Scale preys upon the
This is much better appreciated on the Grape Vine, both in the open air, and
continent than in England, for there ' under glass. It seems to be the same
the gardeners collect lady birds aiid { species which also attacks occasionally
place them upon rose trees, &c., in- the Peach, Nectarine, and Plum. It is,
fected with aphides. says Mr. Curtis, " a longish brown in-

COCCOLOBA. Nineteen species, sect, which in old age assumes a black-
Stove evergreen trees. Leafy ripened ish-brown colour, and becomes hemi-
cuttings. Loam and peat. spherical and wrinkled. The females

COCCUS. Scale Insect. The species are shield-like ; being convex above,
of this family are most usually, but not and flat or concave below; they are
exclusively, found upon the tenants of; furnished with six small legs, which,
our green-houses and hot-houses. The j when the insect is old, become part of
males are active, but the females usu- , the substance of the body. On the un-
ally fixed to a part of the plant; the i derside of the insect is a sucker, with
former having wings, and are so small i which it pierces the cuticle of the
as to require a magnifier to distinguish i plants, and extracts their juices. Soon
them distinctly: they then appear some- t after impregnation the female dies, and
what like a gnat in form. The females her body becomes a protection for the
are much larger, and in shape not tin- | eggs, which are covered with long white
like a bed-bug, but with a scaly skin. | wool, and sometimes completely enve-
When hatching they envelop them- | lop the shoots of the vines, or of plants,
selves in a woolly case. The eggs are growing underneath them. The males
oval, but no larger than dots. Brushing are furnished with four wings, and are
the stems and branches of trees and | apterous. Their powers ofpropagation
shrubs with a hand scrubbing-brush, are immense; and, where they once
will destroy many of these vermin, and ; become very numerous, they are ex-
if spirit of turpentine, with a painter's , ceedingly difficult to eradicate."
brush, is applied, so as to visit every As a genus of insects closely allied
cranny of the bark, the application is i to the Coca/s, and usually confounded
perfectly eifectuai. Smaller and more with it, is Aspidiotus ; and as all reme-
delicate plants in pots, may be placed i dial observations applicable to the one
under a sea-kale or other pot, with a ' are equally applicable to the other, the
little of the spirit in a saucer, and then ! prevailing kinds are here enumerated,
submitted to a gentle heat ; the vapour | "A.nerii. Oleander Scale is found
of the turpentine will destroy the insect in our stoves and green-houses, chiefly

in an hour or two. If the first applica-
tion fails, the second will not fail. The
efficacy of a solution of soft soap in
thinning the ranks of this pest, arises
probably from the turpentine it con-
tains.

" C. hesperidum is found in green-
houses, especially on orange trees. It
infests leaves as well as stems.

*' C. bromeliiE. Pine Apple Scale in-

on the Oleanders, Palma, Aloes and
Acacias.

"A. ros(2. Rose Scale ; A. echino-
cacti. Cactus Scale ; A.laurJ. Sweet
Bay Scale; infest chiefly the plants by
the names of which they are distin-
guished.

"j4. ostreceformis. Pear Tree Oyster
Scale, is found upon the pear tree.

Scale is much more difficult to destroy

coc

159

COM

than aphis ; as tobacco, soft soap, vine- ' species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Ri

pened cuttings. Peat and loam.
COFFEE TREE. Coffea.
COGWOOD TREE. See Laurus.

gar, and other materials scarcely affect
them, even when applied in quantity
and strength sufficiently to kill plants.

The most effectual method of ridding Cloroxylon.

plants of these pests, besides those first COKE. See Fuel.

named, is to brush or sponge the stems COLBERTIA. Two species. Stove

and leaves. If plants in pots are in- evergreen trees. Cuttings. Peat and

fested with this or any other kind of loam.

scale, they should never be cleansed in COLBROOKIA. Two species,
or near the house in which they are Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
grown ; as, though the old ones have tings. Peat and loam.

not always the power of locomotion,
yet the young ones have. Shreds and
matting which support plants in houses,
should always be carefully examined,
as they form a kind of nest for the
young insects. Old shreds should never
be used, without being previously
boiled." — Gard. Chron.

COCHLEARIA. Eight species and
some varieties. Chiefly hardy annuals
or biennials. C. armoracia, the com-
mon horse-radish. Slips from the root.
Deep rich soil. The annuals and bien-
nials from seeds. Common soil.

See Melolontha.
Rhinantkus Christa-

COCKCHAFER.

COCKSCOMB.
gain.

COCKSCOMB.
gain.

COCKSCOMB.

Erythrina Christa-

COLCHICUM. Ten species and some
varieties. Hardy bulbous perennials.
Seeds or offsets. Light loamy soil.

COLDENIA procumheiis. Stove an-
nual trailer. Seeds. Common soil.

COLEONEMA alha. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

COLEWORT. See Cabbage.

COLLIFLOWER. See Caulifloicer.

COLLIGUAJA odorifera. Green-
house evergreen shrub.

COLLINSIA. Five species. Hardy
annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

COLLINSONIA. Five species and
some varieties. Chiefly hardy herbace-
ous perennials. Division. Common
moist garden soil.

COLLOGANIA. Two species. Stove
Celosia crisfata. — evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Peat

Sow the seed in a hot-bed, early in the , and loam.

spring, and transplant when danger
from frost lias passed : seed may also
be sown later in the season, on an open
border. To have Cockscombs in per-
fection requires highly manured soil, (it
cannot be too rich,) and a careful prun-
ing of lateral or side shoots — but one
head or flower should be borne by each
plant.

During dry weather water with a so-
lution of manure or plain water, having

COLOPHONIA mauritiana. Stove
evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

COLUMBINE. Aquilegia.

COLUNARREA. Six species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. C. scandens is a
climtier. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

COLVRIA. potentilloides. Hardy her-
baceous perennial. Division. Peat
I and loam.
1 COLUTEA. Five species. Hardy

first covered the earth around the plants deciduous shrubs. Seeds or cuttings,
with decomposed stable-dung. Common soil.

COCO.VNUT TREE. Cocos. COLVILLEA racemosa. Stove ever-

COCOA PLUM. Chrysobalanus. I green tree.

COCOS. Three species. Palms. COMARASTAPHYLIS arbutoides.
Loam and peat, or light sandy loam in Half hardy shrub. Cuttings. Sandy

a warm moist atmosphere.

CODARIU.M. Wild Tamarind. Two
species. Stove evergreen tree and
shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

CODONOPHORA. Stove evergreen
shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

C(F.LOGYNE. Seventeen species.
Stove orchids. Division. Wood. They
require a hot damp heat.

COMAROPSIS. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Seeds or di-
vision. Rich light loamy soil.

COxMARUM palustre. Hardy her-
baceous perennial. Division. Moist
soil.

COMBRETUM. Seven species.
Stove evergreen climbers or shrubs.

COFFEA. The Coffee Tree. Two I Cuttings. Loam and peat.

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160

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COMESPERMA. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. C. gra-
cilis is a twining plant. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

COMFREY. Simphytum.

COMMELINA. Twenty-five species.
Chiefly stove evergreen trailers, which
are increased hy divisions and seeds

in a dry cellar for the winter, out of the
reach of damp or frost; they will then
require no more trouble until the follow-
ing March, when they should be taken
out, potted, and placed either in a warm
pit or dung frame, to forward them
again for planting out.

" The roots will survive the winter in

sandy loam and peat. The hardy kinds, ; the open border, if slightly protected,

seeds or offsets ; and the annuals, seeds
and common garden soil.

C. calestris is one of the most beauti-
ful of this genus, and the following di-
rections for its cultivation are given by
Mr. G. Gordon, of the Chiswick Gar-
dens.

" About the end of February sow the
seeds, in pans or pots, filled with a mix-
ture of sandy loam and leaf mould, and
place them in a warm pit, or dung-
frame. When the young plants are
large enough to handle, pot them off
singly into sixty-sized pots, and return
them to the warm frame, or pit, for a
week or ten days ; afterwards admit air,
and finally remove them to a cold
frame, or pit, to harden, ready for

and kept dry ; but then they are late in
starting, and never so fine as when the
roots are taken up, and preserved
through the winter, like those of the
Dahlia. The old roots may be divided
like those of the Garden Ranunculus."
— Gard. Chron.

C 0 M M E R S 0 N I A . T wo speci es.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripened cut-
tings. Peat and loam.

COMOCLADIA. Three species.
Stove evergreen trees. Ripened cut-
tings. Peat and loam, or any light rich
soil.

COMPARETTIA. Three species.
Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood or
fibrous peat.

COMPOST is a mixture of manures,

planting out in the open border, which j or of earths and manures, in such pro-

should be done about the end of May,
or beginning of June, when the danger
from late frosts and cold nights is over.
" In planting, they must not be put
in a dry or shaded situation, but in a
warm, and rather damp one ; and in a

portions, and of such qualities as are
considered particularly applicable to
the plant or crops to which the compo-
sition is to be applied. The subject of
Composts has been studied but slightiy
at present, by men who combine science

rich loamy soil. They will then flower I with practice, and what is here offered,
freely all the summer and autumn ; but | must consequently be less satisfactory
like the Dahlia, their beauty is destroy- I than the author is conscious it might be.

ed by the first frost in the autumn,

" The plants flower freely the first
season from seed, but they display their
delicate azure blossoms in the greatest
perfection the second season, if the
roots are taken up, and preserved like
those of the Dahlia, over the winter,
which is best done in the following way:
— When the plants have done flowering,
and there is danger of the roots getting
injured by severe frost, they must be
taken up, and placed to dry for a few
days ; then procure a box, or some
large flower-pots, and place a little dry
soil at the bottom ; (the best substance
for packing all kinds of roots in during
winter, is dry sandy peat) — then place a
layer of roots, filling in between with

A correct preparation of Composts
must be founded upon a due knowledge
of the food of plants. This is ascer-
tainable from their analyses, and these
reveal what is sustained by practice,
that there are some substances required
by all plants as food, and that there are
other substances which are beneficial
to some plants, and useless, or even
injurious to others.

Now the substances universally re-
quired by cultivated plants, are, carbon,
hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, and phos-
phate of lime, and, perhaps, common
salt. These are supplied to plants by
the atmosphere, and by decaying ani-
mal and vegetable matters.

The substances required only by par-

soil ; and so on until you have disposed \ ticular plants, are certain salts, such as
of all the roots, when the whole should sulphate of lime, by the turnip; — sul-
be covered over with a thick layer of any phate of magnesia, (Epsom salt) by the
dry substance. Place the plants either i potato ; — nitrate of potass (saltpetre),
under the stage in the green-house, or I by borage, and the lilac.

COM

161

CON

The food of plants, whether imbibed | the convenience of moving the pots to

by their roots or their leaves, must be
either in a liqiiid, or a <raseous form.
In these states, most plants obtain a
large portion of their food from the
atmosphere, decomposing its carbonic
acid, and water, and retaining only so

it, in the potting season ; conveyance of
manures, &c. All the earths and ma-
nures should be under a shed, and the
dungs, being liable to lose much of
their fertile components in drainage,
should be in water-tight tanks ; and if

much of their carbon, hydrogen, and \ these are covered all the better

oxygen, as they retniire. From the | COMPTONIA axplenifolia. Hardy

same source also they obtain nitrogen, deciduous slirub. Layers. Sandy loam

But they do not obtain these from the or peat.

atmosphere alone„ The roots alsoj CON A NTH ERA. Two species.

obtain thom from the soil. Animal and 1 Green-house bulbous perennials. Ofi-

vegetablc matters, as they decay, give j sets. Light sandy loam.

out carbonic acid; and partly decom- CONIFER.^ or cone-bearing trees

pose into mucilage, soluble in water, j and shrubs are numerous, embracing

both of which are rapidly imbibed by
the roots. Composts, therefore, should
contain these decomposing matters in
such proportion, as to give the plants,
to which they are applied, the vigour
required. If leaves are re(juired to be
largely developed, the compost can be
scarcely too rich ; for the greater the
quantity of food imbibed by the roots,
the greater will be the surface of leaves
requisite for its elaboration. But if
flowers and fruit, as well as leaves, are
desired, the composts, if excessively
rich, will cause these to diminish in
number and size, the flower-buds pass-
ing into leaf-buds for the reason already
alleged.

Composts must also duly regulate
the amount of moisture supplied to the
roots, totally independent of drainage,
as compost retains to them moisture by
itschemical and capillary powers. The
richer in decomposing animal and vege-
table matter, — the richer in alumina,
(clay), — and the looser its texture, the
better does a compost retain water.
And this power is diminished in pro-
portion as siliceous sand, or calcareous
(chalky) matters preponderate.

Mr. Errington, {Gardenfr's Chroni-
cle, 184.5,) prepares his composts from
strong tenacious loam ; half-rotten leaf-
mould; heath-soil ; horse-manure; cow-
manure ; charcoal and wood ashes ;
bone-dust; sharp sand ; burnt turf; and
moss well scalded; and, from these
materials there is no doubt that a com-
post could be prepared, embracing any
desired degree of fertility. — See Ma-
nures and Potting.

COAH'OST-G ROUND. This should
be an enclosure, concealed from sight,
but in the vicinity of the hot-beds, hot-
houses, and other similar structures, for
11

the Pines, Larches, Firs, Cedars, Juni-
pers, and Thuyas.

COMMON HARDY SPECIES.

Juniperus virginiana.
Cupressus tlitiyoides.

sempervirens.

Pinus balsamea.

larix.

canadensis.

sylvcstiris.

picea.

Thuya occidcntalis.

orientalis.

Rarer kinds are thus classed by Mr.
G. Gordon, of the Chiswick Gardens : —
Section I. — Mexican Species.

1st Division. — Fine-leaved, with long
slender leaves ; these may be expected
not to be so hardy as the other species
belonging to this section.

Pinus Tcrocote.

patula.

apulcencis.

Devoniana.

macrophylla.

Pseudo-Strobus.

Leiophylla.

Oocarpa.

Oocarpoides.

filjfolia.

Montezuma^.

2d Division. — Swamp Pines, with
Ions leaves and few branches, like P.
pallustris ; they may be expected to
prove hardy.

Pinus Hartwegii.

Russelliana.

CON

162

CON

3d Division. — Short leaved ; which
may be considered as hardy.

Pinus Llaveana.

Ayacahuite.

Abies reiigiosa.
Section II. — Calif ornian or North West
American species.

1st Division. — Fine leaved. These
are the tenderest kinds, while those
with short leaves are generally hardier,
particularly in this American group.

Pinus insignis.

californica.

•^— — Monticola.

2d Division. — Coarse leaved. With
robust stems, leaves, and cones.

Pinus Macrocarpa.

Sabiniana.

3d Division. — Short leaved. All
either Spruces or Silvers.

Abies amabalis.

grandis.

nobilis.

Menziesii.

Section III. — European Species.

1st Division. — The slender two-
leaved pines ; or those resembling the
Aleppo Pine. (P. halepensis.)

Pinus Brutia.

Pithyusa.

2d Division. — The robust two-leaved
species ; or those strong growing kinds,
resembling the Cluster Pinaster, and
Corsican Laricie, Pines.

Pinus nigricans, or austriaca.

hispanica, or pyrenaica.

romana.

Ascarena.

Lemoniana.

3d Division. — The Silver or Spruce
Firs.

Picea cephalonica, or Mount Enos
Fir.

Pinus Pinsapo, or the Mount Atlas
Cedar.

Section IV. — Asiatic Species.

1st Division. — The robust two-leaved
Pines, or those resembling the Cluster
Pine {P. Pinaster).

Pinus taurica.

2d Division. — Pinus Sinensis, or the
Chinese Pine.

Pinus excelsa, or the lofty Bhotan
pine.

Pinus Longifolia.

Gerardiana.

3d Division. — The Silver, or Spruce
Firs.

Abies Webbiana, or the purple-coned
Silver Fir.

Pindrow, or Royles Silver.

Abies Pichta or Sibirica, the Pitch or
Siberian Silver.

Abies Brunoniana, the Indian Hem-
lock Spruce.

Abies Khutrow, the large coned In-
dian Spruce.

Abies Morinda.

Abies orientalis.

The following notice of Junipers will
be confined, like the preceding of
Coniferous Plants, to the more rare
and less known kinds.

True Junipers. Juniperus oblonga
(the oblong-fruited Juniper); Juniperus
Oxycedrus (large brown-fruited Juni-
per) ; Juniperus macrocarpa (the large
purple-fruited Juniper) ; Juniperus squa-
mosa (the Creeping Indian Juniper) ;
Juniperus recurva (the recurved Indian
Juniper) ; Juniperus nana (Dwarf Juni-
per)."— Card. Chron.

Propagation by Cuttings. Mr. Gor-
don gives these directions : —

" In August or September, select a
young shoot of moderate strength, and
cut it off with a piece of the last year's
wood attached, forming what is techni-
cally termed a heel.

" The leaves at the bottom of the
cutting should not be pulled off, but
must either be left on entire, or short-
ened with a sharp knife. AVlien the
cutting is made, it should be planted
from a half to three-quarters of an inch
deep in a pot, filled about one-third
with potsherds, on which a layer of
turfy peat should be placed, then an
inch of good loam, and, on the top of
all, a layer of white sand. The pot of
cuttings may now be placed in a cold
frame, kept close, and shaded when
necessary; they may remain in this
situation till the end of October, when
they should be put in a cold pit for the
Winter. Care must be taken at that
season, that they do not suffer from
frost or damp ; but they must on no
account have fire heat. About the end
of February the pot of cuttings may be
removed to a hot bed, a bellglass being
placed closely over it; the cuttings will
root readily, and many of them will be
fit to pot off by the end of June. When
first potted off, the young plants should
be treated exactly in the same manner
as the cuttings are.

" In the case of Junipers and Cy-
presses, older wood than that used tor
Pines is necessary, as they have not

CON

163

CON

sufficient strength to omit roots before water at first; for much depends upon
the winter, and consequently perish j the use made of water, at this period,

during that season, when only callous, and the treatment given to them, when

If wood of two or three years' growth in this state, (that is, when the young

be taken, it will be found'hardy enough plant has exhausted the nourishment
to stand the winter, and with the aid of supplied by the seed, and has to seek
artificial heat, in the spring will root j subsistence from its own roots ;) after

freely." — Gard. Chron. which there is little danger of their

By Seed. — The same excellent au- damping off, except they are over

thority gives these directions relative watered. When the plants are fairly

to propagating the conifene from seed, up, and a little hardened, they may be

'•' The cones should be gathered at potted off singly, into small pots, filled

the beginning of winter: they should with a mixture of loam and sandy peat,

be placed in some cool but dry place, If the loam is rather poor or stiff, a

until the end of March, at which time little leaf-mould may be added; for the

the seeds should be taken out of the bad efTects of the two latter substances

cones; which in some cases is difficult, seem only to occur during the time the
without injuring them, particularly if young plant received its support from

they are kiln-dried, as the seeds are
easily damaged by fire heat. The
cones of some kinds are so hard — of
Cocarpa, for example — that it would
take weeks on the kiln before they

the seed.

" When potted, they should be
placed in a close pit or frame for a few
days, until they recover the effects of
the shift, and afterwards air must be

would open. The safest way is to bore | freely admitted ; but water given rather
a hole through the centre, beginning at sparingly at first. They will require
the base, or stalk, and afterwards to little trouble afterwards, but probably
drive a round jjiece of hard wood, may want shiiting into larger pots in
through the hole, which will split the the autumn, (particularly the strong
cones. The seeds may then be re- ] growing kinds,) as it is injurious to
moved without injury. If the kinds are their future growth for their roots to
new or rare, they should be sown in get pot-bound when young. The more
pans filled with dry sandy loam, and rare or tender kinds should not be
without any mixture, of cither peat, planted out before the third season ;
leaf mould, or rotten dung; all of i but the commoner ones may be planted
which are injurious, and cause the out after the first year,
young plants to damp off when they " The common kinds, such as the
first come up, more especially if it Scotch fir, larch, spruce, and silver firs,
should be damp weather at the time Pinaster, Stone, and Weymouth seeds,
they appear above ground. If the ' and even the Deodar, and Cedar of
loam is a little stiff, a small portion of Lebanon may be sown in the open
sand may be used ; but this must be border with great advantage in the tbl-
avoided as much as possible, because lowing manner : — select a good fresh
the more sand there is in the soil the loamy soil which is not stiff, but rather
weaker the plants come up. If they sandy, and about the end of March dig
are in a doubtful condition, sow the and break the surface rather finely ;
seeds in pans filled with very dry loam, then mark the ground out into beds
and place them in some dry situation, about four feet wide, leaving an alley
out of the reach of damp, they will then of a foot wide between each bed ; and
not be injured ; whereas if they were on some fine dry day sow the seeds
not placed in dry soil, they would be broadcast rather thickly, covering them
sure to perish, or if sown in damp over from a quarter to half an inch
soil, the like destruction would attend deep, according to the size of the
them. seeds; then smooth the surface by

" When spring advances, place the gently beating it with the back of the

pans in a gentle, but by no means damp
heat; taking care, however, to remove
them to a much cooler place, before
the young plants are fairly above
ground, and afterwards harden them
off by degrees, giving them but little

spade ; — (this must only be done if the
soil is dry, and rather light.) They
will then require no other care except
keeping them from weeds, and the at-
tacks of birds, mice, and slugs, which
are very destructive to them, when

CON

164

CON

they first make their appearance above
ground.

" By placing some small branches
thickly over the beds until the young
plants have thrown off' the old seed-

^' Inarching is another way for in-
creasing the pine tribe, but, like graft-
ing, only suitable for the propagation
of curious varieties, and is certainly a
more unsightly way than that of cleft-

coat, they may be protected from the grafting, as the stock and scion hardly
ravages of birds ; if attacked by mice, ever unite to cover the old heel, when
traps must be set for catching them, as separated from the mother plant.
the only safe mode of preventing such ■ " This operation may be performed
pests; and if subject to be eaten by either with the last year's or the pre-
slugs, some wood-ashes should be ceding year's wood, but the former is
sown over the beds just as the young ' by far the quickest in taking ; it is best
plants are making their appearance. ' performed about the same time as graft-
" The seeds of the greater part of i ing, but the inarches must not be re-
the pine tribe come up in about six ■ moved for two years,
weeks after sowing in the open border, " Layering is certainly one of the
and the most of them will be fit for best modes, where it can be done,
transplanting into nursery-rows the Layering should be performed early in
first year after sowing; afterwards they the spring, before the plant begins to

may be treated in the same way as
other forest trees." — Gard. Chron.

Grafting, Src — " The pine or fir
tribe are sometimes increased by graft-
ing or inarching. It is at present little
practised, and when it is so, only as a
means of propagating some of the curi-

grow, and in the usual common way,
by slightly tonguing and laying the
shoots in light sandy soil, pegging them
securely down.

" They will require two years to
root, but it should be observed, that
in layering, the whole plant must be

ous varieties ofthe propersection Pinus, layered, as it is very uncertain if only
which are the most difficult and uncer- the bottom branches are so done, as
tain to strike from cuttings. Procure ' these frequently die after the operation
some good healthy young plants of the [ if the upper ones are left on : therefore
common kinds, of the same section to ! the whole plant should be bent down,
which the sort to be increased belongs or the head cut off",
in pots ; if it is to the robust two-leaved I " Pines and firs should be planted in
section, such as the Pinaster or Stone the open ground, about the end of April,
Pine, procure them for the stocks : if to '
the Weymouth or Scotch, procure thom,
but they will take on the common Scotch
Fir. If the species or variety belongs
to the Spruce or silver tribe, procure ,
such for stocks ; if it belongs to the ce-
dar or larch section, the common larch

if they are rare or tender kinds : but if
hardy and common ones, the end of
February is best.

" The Soil most suitable for them is
a light sandy loam, on a dry subsoil;
but they will all grow in almost any
soil that is not overcharged with water,
will do, bearing in mind that the species or too poor, if encouraged at first by
intended to be united should be as mixing a little sandy loam andleaf mould
nearly related as possible ; for although with the common earth, when planting
the true Pinus may be worked on a ' them where they are permanently to
larch stock, they will soon perish. The | remain.

operation is performed on the current ' " In planting, the roots should be
year's growth by clefl grafting, (and spread out as much as possible, and
always in the leading shoot, shortening kept near the surface, leaving the plant
several of the side shoots at the time,) a little elevated on a small mound, if

or by splitting the stock down the cen-
tre after the head is removed sufficiently
deep for receiving the scion, which
must be cut wedge-shaped, to fit. |

The time of performing the opera-

the adjoining ground is level, but if on
a declivity, it is of no consequence.

" When planted, they should be well
watered, not immediately at the roots,
but for a yard or two all round, and

tion is when the young shoots are about ' then a few spruce fir or other branches
half-grown, and are brittle with the should be stuck round, to break off" tiie
stock ; the operation is done in the | sun's rays, and the winds ; if they are
usual way afterwards, by tying, and ex- tender they should have a large iiand-

cluding the air.

I glass over them for the first winter,

CON

165

CON

which may remain permanently on dur-
ing the months of December and Jan-
uary.

" In preparing the compost for them,
a little sand should be used, if the soil
of the place is tolerably good, but ra-
ther stiff; but if poor and light, a little
loam and leaf mould must be added ; it
is by far the best way to accustom the
plants to the common soil at once, while
they are young, for if the ground is
made good for their reception only,
they will grow vigorously and rapid,
and as soon as they exhaust the pre-
pared soil, they become stunted, and
frequently die prematurely.

" In protecting the tender kinds, a
single mat covering at a sufficient dis-
tance will keep most of them from in-
jury ; but much damage is done to the
plants by not being able to remove the
covering early in the spring.

" The covering should be constructed
so that the top can be removed during
the day time, and replaced at night,
which hardens the plants, and at the
same time protects them from the effects
of the late spring frosts, which destroy
the young shoots, especially of Web-
biana, and other silver firs.

" In pruning there is little to be done
except to cut away all dead branches,
and to protect the leader." — Card.
Chron.

CONNARUS. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Ripened cuttings.
Peat and loam.

CONOCARPUS. Four species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Ripened cuttings.
Loam and peat.

CONOSPERMUM. Nine species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy peat.

CONOSTYLIS. Three species.
Green-house herbaceous perennials.
Division. Sandy peat.

CONSERVATIVE WALLS. See
Walls.

CONSERVATORY. This structure
is a green-house communicating with the
residence, having borders and beds in
which to grow its tenant plants ; or it
may be an appendage to the dwelling,
of moderate size, into which the plants
from the green-house are removed whilst
in bloom, thus concentrating the more
attractive specimens, and presenting a
continuous show of flowers.

Good plants for turning out into the
beds of a conservatory are: — Templeto-

nia Glauca ; Luculia gratissima ; Eu-
taxia myrtifolia ; Pimelea spectnbilis ;
Chorozema varium ; Brugmansia san-
guinea ; Crowea saligtia ; Cytisus race-
mosus ; Horea Celsi ; together with Ca-
mellias, and the ditlerent kinds of
Acacia.

Mr. Beaton observes, that — " In some
instances the more hardy stove climbers
are now planted out into the conserva-
tory after they have been grown in
vineries, or other forcing-houses, or in
stoves, till they are long enough to
reach the top of the house at once,
which is kept sufficiently close to afford
them the necessary temperature. Many
of this class must necessarily be lelt
naked at bottom, where the air of the
house is too cold for their young shoots,
and thus a space is left for choice woody
plants that are not climbers, among
which the subject of these remarks may
take a leading place.

" At present, when climbers get
naked at the bottom, the practice is
either to cover the parts with long
shoots from the top of tlie house, or to
plant slender-growing climbers round
them ; but a better way would be to se-
lect fine plants, not exceeding ten or
twelve feet in a rich border, or that
might be easily kept to be the required
height, by pruning, such plants being
remarkable for some peculiar feature,
such as a graceful mode of growth, fine
foliage, conspicuous or sweet-scented
flowers, &c. A situation of this kind
would suit Lucuiia gratissima, particu-
larly if it happened to be near the doors
or source of ventilation.

" This beautil'ul shrub, so lovely in
the autumn, although a strong growing
plant, is a delicate feeder; and a strong
climber planted behind it may be said
to assist its growth rather than impede
it, by appropriating to itself the more
gross parts of the soil in the border. If
the climber, however, is of the very
fibrous-rooted kind, like the ash, few
plants can compete with it for nourish-
ment ; whereas such climbers as Ipo-
inwa, Horsfallia;, Combretum purpu-
reum, Beaumontia grandiflora, and most
of the Passion liownrs, Hardenbergias,
Zichyas, &c., form their roots different-
ly, and are suitable for this kind of
furnishing when they become naked be-
low. Plants for such a purpose ought
to be well established and of consider-
able size, before they are finally planted

CON

166

COR

out; and all plants, whether climbers
or otherwise, that have been first reared
in the stove, or in heat, ought to be
thus treated, otherwise it is found in
practice that many of them make little
progress for the first season or two.

"Another cause which operates
astainst the free progress of some
climbers is, that for the sake of conve-
nience they are increased from cuttings
of the flowering shoots, which are more

CORCHORUS. See Sherria.

CORDIA. Thirty species. Stov*
evergreen trees or shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

CORDYLINE. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Suckers. Peat and
loam, or any light vegetable soil.

COREMA alha. Hardy evergreen
shrub. Layers. Sandy peat.

COREOPSIS. Twenty-three species.
Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials.

or less stunted, and the young plants i Cuttings and division. Rich light soil.

for a time retain that character, until
forced by a good feeding or strong heat
to assume their native iVeedom ; and
even after that is effected, if they are
afterwards much confined in small pots,
they become again stunted ; then the
best remedy is to cut them down to the
surface of the ground, and force them
in a hot-bed to make a fresh growth

The annuals and biennials by seeds.
Common soil.

COREOPSIS. See Chrysostemona.

CORETHROSTYLIS 6rac?ea. Green-
house shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

CORIANDRUM sativum. Coriander.
Hardy annual. Seeds. Common soil.

CORIARIA. Two species. Hardy

Beaumontia grandiflora, and some of ; and green-house evergreen shrubs. Tiie

the stove Bignonias, are the first to suf
fer from either cause ; yet when they
are young and vigorous, they grow from
ten to twenty feet in length in one sea-
son, and some Bignonias even much
more. The former should be about two
or three years old, and from fifteen to
twenty feet in length before it is planted
in the conservatory, where it flowers
freely for two or three months, in ter-
minal heads, of large white trumpet-
shaped flowers." — Card. Chron.

CONTORTION. See Deformity.

CONVALLARIA. The Lily of the
Valley. One species, and two varieties.
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division.
Common soil.

CONVOLVULUS. Fifly-one species.
Chiefly twiners. The stove and green-
house plants thrive best in loam and
peat, and increase by cuttings ; the
hardy kinds, and green-house annuals
and biennials, by seeds. Common soil.

COOKIA punctata. Stove evergreen
tree. Ripened cuttings. Loam and
peat.

COOPERIA. Two species. Green-
house bulbous perennials. Seeds. Sandy
compost.

COPTIS trifoliata. Hardy herba-
ceous perennial. Division or seeds.
Peat soil.

CORAL TREE. Erythrina corallo-
dendron.

CORAXIC POISON BULB. Bruns-
vigia coronica.

CORBULARIA serotina. Hardy bul-
bous perennial. Offsets. Sandy loam.

hardy species is increased by cuttings
of the roots or suckers. Common soil.
The green-house species by cuttings.
Sand, loam, and peat.

CORIS monspeliensis. Green-house
biennial. Seeds. Peat and loam.
CORKTREE. Quercus suher.
CORNELIAN CHERRY. Cornus
mascula.

CORN FLAG. Gladiolus bullatus.
CORN SALAD. See Lajnb's Lettuce.
CORNUS. Thirteen species, and
some varieties. Chiefly hardy decidu-
ous shrubs and trees. Seeds or layers.
j Common soil. The herbaceous species
I thrive best in peat, and increase by di-
I vision of the root.

' C. florida is a common tree in the
: United States. It is a pleasing object
' when in bloom ; its creamy white brac-
i tea enlivening the woodland when but
j few plants have yet expanded their
I flowers.

CORNVTl A pyramidata. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

CORONILLA. Sixteen species, and
one variety. Chiefly half-hardy ever-
green shrubs. The green-house species
are increased by cuttings or seeds.
Peat and loam. The herbaceous re-
quire protection in severe weather.
Seeds or division. The hardy annuals.
Seeds. Common soil. Some are hardy
deciduous creepers.

CORRiEA. Nine species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sand
and loam.

COR

167

C R A

CORRIGIOLA. Three species. Har-
dy trnilers. Seeds. Common soil.

CORTUSA Mathiole. Hardy herba-
ceous perenni.il. Requires protection
in severe weatlier. Division or seeds.
Peat and loam.

CORYANTHES. Three species.
Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood.

Two species. Half-
Division. Loam and

CORYCIUM.
hardy orchids,
peat.

C0RYDALI8.

Twenty-four species.
Hardy annuals, biennials, or tuberous-
rooted perennials. The latter increase
by division. Peat and loam. The an-
nuals by seeds. Common soil.

CORYLUS. Nut Tree. Seven spe-
cies, and many varieties. Hardy de-
ciduous shrubs. Suckers or layers.
Common soil. See Filbert.

CORYNOCARPUS lavigatus. Green-
house evergreen tree. Layers. Rich
mould.

CORYPHA. Eight species. Palms.
A strong moist heat, and sandy loam.

COSCENIUM fenestratum. Stove
evergreen climber. Division. Loam
and peat.

COSMEA. Seven species. Green-
house or hardy annuals. Seeds. Com-
mon soil.

COSMELL\ rubra. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy
peat.

COSMUS. Three species. Hardy
and green-house tuberous-rooted pe-
rennials. Division. Common soil. C.
tenuifolius is a hardy annual, increased
from seeds.

COSSIGNIA borbonica. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

COSTMARY. See Bahamita.
COSTUS. Twelve specjes. Stove
herbaceous perennials
seed. Peat and loam.

COTONEASTER. Ten species, and
some varieties. Hardy deciduous
shrubs. Layers. Common soil.

COTYLEDON. Thirty-six species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs : a few
herbaceous perennials. Cuttings dried
in the sun. Sandv loam.

COULTERIA. " Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Seeds. Peat and
loam.

COURGOURDE. Lagenaria vul-
garis.

COUTAREA speciosa. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat.

CO\VANIAp//cafa. Hardy evergreen
shrub. Division. Sandy peat.

COWBERRY. Vaccinium Vitis Idea.
COWDIE PINE. Dammara australis.
COWSLIP. {Primula vcris.) There
are several varieties, varying in colour
from almost white to a very deep yel-
low ; some are single, but others are
double, in the form that florists distin-
guish as hose-in-liose, the calyx iu these
being converted into corolla. Some,
specimens will produce one hundred
pips upon a single truss, and they have
been known to yield even more than
one hundred and fifty.

The cultivation is the same as that of
the Polyanthus.

CRAMBE. Three species. Hardy
tuberous-rooted perennial. Division or
seed. Rich soil. See Sea-kale.

CRANBERRY. Oxy coccus palustr is.
CRANE'S BILL. Geranium.
CRASSULA. Fifty-nine species and
a few varieties. Hardy evergreen an-
nual or biennial shrubs. Cuttings laid
for a few days in the sun. Sandy loam
and brick rubbish.

CRATAEGUS. Hawthorn. Fifty
species and many varieties. Chiefly
hardy deciduous low trees. Seeds,
buds, or grafts.

Dr. Lindley gives the following list
of the most showy kinds.

C. Aronia. — Most showy species of
all in the autumn ; very large bright
yellow fruit in great abundance.

C. Tenacetifolia. — Upright growing,
finely cut leaves, the largest fruit of all,
yellow.

C. Odoratissima. — A spreading tree ;

downy leaves, numerous large bright

red fruit in the autumn.

I C. Orientalis. — Large dark red fruit.

! C. Coccinia. — Very showy; large and

Division or numerous bunches of bright red fruit in

the autumn.

C. Glandulosa. — Dense bush, and is
ornamental in the autumn, covered
with abundance of rather large red fruit.
C. Punctata. — Three varieties, one
with red fruit, another with yellow, and
a third with an upright or fastigiatn
habit of growth.

C. Oliveriana. — Small, deeply cut,
woolly leaves, and small black fruit,
numerous and ornamental in the au-
tumn.

C. Dougla-sii. — Various shaped leaves
and black fruit, which ripen early ia
the autumn.

C R A

168

C RO

C. Nigra. — Strong growing, with
black fruit and deeply divided leaves,
flowering rather early.

C. Heterophylla. — Beautiful species,
profusion of flowers in the spring, and
numerous small red fruit in the autumn.

C. Macracantha. — With immense
spines and small shining yellowish-red
fruit, produced in large bunches early
in the autumn.

C. PyrifoUa. — Free flowering kind,
with small, but very numerous yellow-
ish-red fruit, which ripen very late in
the autumn.

C. Crus-Galli. — Bright shining green
leaves, and numerous bunches of dark-
red fruit, which ripen very late in the
autumn. The most desirable is the
variety called sallicifolia, which has
horizontal branches, forming a flat ta-
ble-shaped head.

C. Prunifolia. — A close bush, rather
large shining leaves, and numerous
bunches of dark-red fruit, which ripen
late in the autumn.

C. Flava. — Small greenish-yellow
fruit late in the autumn.

C. Virginiana. — A dwarf kind, with
numerous green fruit, it retains its fruit
nearly all the winter.

C. Cordata. — The latest in flower,
and bears the smallest fruit; it has bright
shining angular leaves, and bright red
berries.

C. Oxycantha Rosea Superha. — The
most brilliant of all when in flower, it
bears bright crimson blossoms in May.
The double variety of it has also flowers,
nearly as intense in colour, and quite
double.

CRATiEVA. Four species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Rich strong
soil.

CREEPERS or TRAILERS are plants
which by having numerous stems and
branches resting upon and spreading
over the soil's surface, are useful for
concealing what would be unpleasing
to the eye.

CRESCENTIA. Three species.
Stove evergreen trees. Ripened cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

CRESS. {Lepidium sativum.)

" The Garden Cress, or Pepper
Grass is a hardy annual plant ; its na-
tive country is unknown. It is culti-
vated in gardens for the young leaves
which are used in salads, and have a
peculiarly warm and grateful relish.

'■ The vr-rictics n-'o *]"; ^!nin leaved.

curled leaved, and broad leaved. The
method of cultivation is the same as is
used for the parsley. To have a con-
stant supply in perfection, very frequent
sowings should be made ; during hot,
dry weather, it should be sown in the
shade of trees, or protected by brush,
&c., from the direct rays of the sun." —
Rural Register.

CRESS ROCKET. See Vella.

CRINUM. Sixty-six species and some
varieties. Stove or green-house bulbous
perennials. Offsets. Rich loam, peat,
and sand.

C. capense, is thus recommended by
the best cultivator of the amaryllidas, to
which the Crinum belongs. The Rev.
W. Herbert says, — "Crinum capense is
good for covering small islands, as af-
fording by its abundant arched foliage,
the best possible covert for wild fowl,
and producing an abundant succession
of beautiful flowers throughout the sum-
mer, and even the autumn. The plant
is equally capable of flowering and
ripening its seed when planted in a
border, or two feet under the surface
of the water, or in a rainy season. It
could be best planted a little above the
level of the water. The seed sprouts
as soon as it is ripe, and the young
plants should be sheltered in pots the
first and second winter, and then plant-
ed out ; taking care that the weeds do
not smother them while young. The
bulbs when full grown are hardy." —
Gard. Chron.

CHRISTARIA cocawea. Hardy her-
baceous perennial. Division or seeds.
Peat soil.

CROCUS. Many species and varie-
ties. Hardy bulbous perennials. Off"-
sets or seeds. Light sandy soil.

Spring Crocuses. — C. vernus: of this
there are about five varieties, varying
in colour, chiefly yellow, white, purple,
and blue; C . annulatus , hur varieties,
blue and white ; C. speciosus, three va-
rieties ; C. pulchellus; C. Sibthor planus;
C. Ittvigatus, two varieties ; C. lagencB-
florus, many varieties ; C. campestris;
C. cancellatus ; C. retaulatus, four va-
rieties; C. gargaricus ; C.Siberianus ;
C. Fleischerianus; C. parvulus; C. pyre-
ccBus; C. asturinus; C. serotinus; C.
salamaunianus ; C. versicolor, five va-
rieties ; C. imperatorianus ; C. suaveo-
lens; C. insularis; C. odorus; C. longi-
florus ; C. Tnedius ; C. Pallasianus ; C.
Thoir.nr^iani'^ . tv/o vririrt'""; • '^. safivus.

C RO

169

CRO

Of the Autumn Crocus, the Rev. Dr. have but one, (being monocotyledonous

Herbert particularizes the tbllowin

C. Damascenas, pale purple; C. By-
zantinus, white; C. Tournefortianus,
French white ; C. Ca/nbessedesianus,
white, streaked witli purple ; C. medius

plants,) appears above the surface of
the earth.

" This occurs sometimes about the
end of the year; but oftener in earliest
spring. After this it is essential that

purple ; C. Cartwrightianus, purple ; they should have complete exposure to

C". far. Creticus, purple and pink ; C
Chusianus, light purple. — Bot. Re,
Characteristics of Excellence

the air, even in frosty weather, screen-
them, however, occasionally with
loose straw from other injurious effects

Pirst. — It should be composed of of frost. In this manner may the young

si.x petals, three inner and three outer
but fitting so close as to form a cup the
shape of half a hollow ball

crocuses be treated until the suu ac-
([uires sufficient power to dry the earth,
or as to require daily waterings. It will

"Second. — The petals should be be then found advantageous to remove

broad enough and blunt enough at the
ends to form an even edge all round
the cup, and lap over each other so
much as to have no indentations where
they join.

them to a cooler, but not sheltered
situation, and here they may remain
until their leaves lie down ; giving them
at all times, and in every situation,
while their leaves are growing, such

"Third. — The petals should be thick discretional rose waterings, wlion the
and smooth on the edge, without notch \ sun is not shining, as they may roason-
or serratine. ably appear to require ; but never until

"Fourth. — The colour should be the earth they grow in becomes dry;
dense and all over the same, if the not any whatever after their leaves
variety be a self; and the marking begin to look yellow. After this period
should be very distinct, if variegated. ' it is necessary to defend them from all

a 1,'ifih. — It should be hardy enough humidity, except dews and gentle rains,
to stand the frost, for those which are until the end of August or beginning of
spoiled by the frosts, which come after; September.

they Hower, are almost worthless, be-' " If the surface of the earth is oc-
causo they all bloom early, before the casionally stirred with the point of a

frosts are gone, and therefore their only
beauty would be destroyed unless they
stood the cold well.

"Lastly. — They ought to bloom
abundantly, the (lowers succeeding each
other to lengthen the season of their
bloom." — Hort. Mag.

Cultivation. — "The seeds of crocuses
are best sown thinly, immediately after

knife it will never fail to be attended
with beneficial effects, and invigorate
the bulbs; if notwithstanding tho pre-
caution of thinly sowing the seeds, the
plants should have grown so thickly to-
gether as to have incommoded each
other, it will be desirable to have such
taken up and replanted immediately
further asunder in fresh earth, and about

being gathered in light dry earth in large three quarters of an inch deep. But if
pots or pans, with a sufficiency of holes they are not too crowded, they will re-
and potsherds at the bottom for the pur- quire no shifting ; sift a little earth over
pose of draining all, and cover not more them, previously stirring and cleaning
than half an inch with the mould. The the surface of the old from moss and
most eligible aspect or situation until weeds, and observing not to bury the
the autumnal rains set in, is a moderate- young bulbs, not yet so large as lentils,
ly shady, yet unsheltered one, permit- deeper than three quarters of an inch,
ting them to receive all the influence of or an inch at the most. The second
the weather, except such heavy showers season requires exactly the same man-
agement as the first. But as soon as
their second year's foilage has passed
away, the roots should all be taken up
and replanted again, the same or fol-
lowing day, into fresh earth of the same
kind as before ; sifting over them in au-
tumn half an inch of fresh eartii. The
spring following, if they have been duly
atfnded f). mo< of thorn will show

as would wash bare the seeds. As soon,
however, as the autumnal rains com-
mence, remove to a warm aspect ; and
protect them from all excessive rains,
frosts, and snows, by the occasional
shelter of a garden-frame, allowing
them, nevertheless, the benefit of the
full air at other times ; but more espe-

P^.,,1., .,(>,, ,!,„ er."vTi-l lonT. for th"v

CRO

170

cue

flowers ; a few, perhaps, having done
so in the midst of their fourth crop of
leaves." — Hori. Soc. Trans.

They are very hardy, and require no
care till the leaves begin to fade, when
they should be taken up and kept in a
state of rest for two or three months:
some do not take them up oftener than
once in three years, which answers
very well for the border sorts. Even
the

longer; because, as the young bulbs
are formed on the top of the others,
they come nearer to the surface every
year, till at last, if neglected, they are
thrown out and lost. — Enc. Gard.

Soil, 4"C. — They like a warm, dry,
light soil, in wliich they will thrive for
many years without requiring removal.
Both are, however, better for being
taken up occasionally, because in that
way their roots are exposed to fresh soil,
and are not obliged to search through

Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

CRYPTOSTEMMA. Three species.
Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

CUCKOO-FLOWER. Lychnis flos-
cuculi.

CUCKOO-FLOWER. Cardaminepra-
tensis.

CUCKOO-SPIT. See Teftigonia.

CVCULLl A verbasci. Mullien Shark,
however, should not be left I The caterpillars of this moth are very
destructive to Verbascums in June and
July. Mr. Curtis describes them as
being " about two and a half inches
long, bluish white and thickly sprinkled
with black and bright yellow spots ;
when touched, they emit a considerable
quantity of dark green fluid from their
mouths. When they have attained their
growth, they burrow into the ground at
the roots of the plant on which they
have been feeding, and in a few days
form a cocoon made principally of half

exhausted earth for their necessary food. ' rotted leaves and fine mould, and bound

They are fond of cow-dung as a manure;
it may be applied just after Christmas.
— Gard. Chron.

CROWEA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

CROWN IMPERIAL. See Fritil-
lary.

CRUCIANELLA. Fourteen species.
Hardy annuals and herbaceous peren-
nials. C. americana and C. maritima
are green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

CRYPTANDRA. Two species.
Green-house shrubs. Cuttings. Rich
light loam.

CRYPTOCHILUS sanguinea. Stove
orchid. Offsets. Peat and potsherds.

CRYPTOLEPIS elegans. Stove ever-
green climber. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

CRYPTOMERIA japonica. Japan
Cedar. " Hardy evergreen tree, which
will probably prove one of the most
ornamental of the Conifera;. Sow the
seed in sandy loam in a cool place; pot
singly ; the first year it will attain a
height of from twelve to eighteen
inches. It grows rapidly, and is as easily
managed as the Chinese Arbor Vita;
{Thuja Orientalis), succeeding in almost
any soil or situation, not very poor or
wet." — (Hort. Soc. Journ.) — It will be
propagated, probably, by cuttings.

CRYPTOSTEGIA. Two species.

firmly together with silk, so as to re-
semble a stone, or a small lump of earth.
They remain in this state till the follow-
ing May, and sometimes for two years,
when they emerge as pretty blackish
brown moths. The wings, when ex-
tended, measure between one and two
inches across; the upper pair are brown-
ish, clouded with black, and have on
the inner edge a pale white patch, re-
sembling the figure 3, or the Greek
letter c; the lower wings are pale
brownish, and sometimes nearly white,
and have a broad dark border. We
have seen those caterpillars in such
abundance in some gardens, as to com-
pletely destroy all the different kinds of
Mullein, and the nearly allied plants.
The only way to lessen their ravages,
is to collect and kill the caterpillars."
— Gard. Chron.

CUCUMBER. Cucumis sativus.
This, like many other esculent vege-
tables, has been divided into a number
of varieties and subvarieties, the greater
portion of which could be easily dis-
pensed with ; for all useful purposes,
three or four varieties are amply suffi-
cient. " Those principally grown are
the Early Frame and Long Green
Prickly. The Early Frame is of mode-
rate length, prickly, and is the variety
generally used as the early crop for
salad.

" The Long Green is mostly grown
for pickling ; all the varieties are very

cue

171

cue

tender, not bearing the least frost. For I threatens to be too powerful. It must

an early supply start some plant in pots ' never be neglected to cover the glasses
or boxes, early in the spring, and when at night, apportioning the covering to
the season is more advanced set them the temperature of the air and bed.
out on a well sheltered border, in hills. The heat should not exceed SO*-' in the
with some thoroughly rotted manure hottest day, or sink below 65^ during
incorporated with the soil. Seed for the coldest night.

succeeding crops may then be planted. ! If the heat declines, coatings of hot
For pickles, plant the latter end of dung are to be applied in succession
June and beginning of July. The Cu- to the back, front, and sides, if that
cumber, like the Squash, &c., is liable ' source of heat be employed. As the

to be preyed upon by yellow bugs
which are very destructive. To coun

mould appears dry, moderate waterings
must be given, care being taken not to

teract them prepare a mixture of slaked wet the leaves. The best time for ap-
lime and wood ashes, and sprinkle it plying it is between ten and two of a
freely on the leaves and stems whilst! mild day, the glasses being closed for
the dew is on, that it may adhere. As an hour or two after performing it.
often as it may be washed or blown off, The temperature of the water must be
repeat the application, till the enemy be
conquered.

" For the method of making sieves or
boxes to protect cucumber vines, melon
vines, &c., against the yellow bug, see
the New England Farmer, vol.2, page
305. •' — Rural Register.

To force Cucumbers. — Most persons

between 6o^ and SO^. The interior of
the glass should be frequently wiped, to
prevent the condensed steam dropping
upon the plants, which is very injurious
to them. If the bed attains a sudden
violent heat, the necessary precautions
to prevent the roots of the plants being
injured or scalded, must be adopted ;

who have the requisite conveniences ; but if hot water is the source of heat,
force this vegetable. The following hints 1 this danger is avoided altogether.

may be useful, even to those who have
some experience.

The hot-bed for seedlings must be
moderate, and a single one or two light
frames will be quite sufficient if dedi-
cated to their cultivation. The mould

It is a material advantage if, previous
to planting finally, the plants be turned
into pots a few sizes larger, without at
all disturbing the roots, and plunged
into a hot-bed for a month longer, the
same attention being paid them as

need not be more than five or six inches [ before,
deep. The seed is best sown four The second stage of cultivation is
together in small pots, and plunged in ; planting them out into hot-beds for final

production. The hot-bed for their re-
ception must be of the largest size, as
being required to afford a higher and
longer continued warmth through the
coldest periods of the year.

When the earth is put on, it is at first
to be spread only two or three inches

the earth of the bed ; but whether here
or in the mould, it must not be buried
more than half an inch deep. Two or
three days after sowing, or when the
seminal leaves are half an inch in
breadth, those in the mould of the bed
must be pricked three together in smal

pots, quite down to their leaves in the { deep, but under the centre of each light
earth, which should be brought to the a hillock must be constructed, eight or
temperature of the bed before this re- ten inches deep and a foot in diameter,
moval, by being set in it for a day or The earthing should be performed at

two previously ; those seedlings that
have been raised in pots, must likewise
be thinned to three in each. They
must remain plunged in the hot-bed
until their rough leaves have acquired
a breadth of two or three inches, when
they are fit tor ridging out finally.

During this first stage of growth,
great care must be taken that air is ad-
mitted everyday as freely as contingent

least four or five days before planting,
at which time the earth must be ex-
amined ; if it be of a white colour and
caked, or, as it is technically termed,
burnt, it must be renewed, for the
plants will not thrive in it, and holes
bored in the bed to give vent to the
steam.

The mould of the hillocks being well
stirred, the plants must be turned out

circumstances will admit, as also at of the pots without disturbing the ball
night, if the degree of heat and steam ' of earth, and one containing three plants

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inserted in each; a little water, previ-
ously heated to the requisite tempera-
ture, must be given, and the glasses kept
perfectly close until the next morning.
Any plants not in pots must be moved
by tlie trowel with as much earth per-
taining to their roots as possible. The
shade of a mat is always requisite dur-
ing the meridian of bright days until
the plants are well established. They
must be pressed gradually away from
each other, until at least eight inches
apart ; nothing can be more erroneous
than to allow them to proceed with the
stems nearly touching.

When well taken root, earth must be
added regularly over the bed, until it is
level with the tops of the mounds ; for
if there be not a sufficient depth of soil,

keep the frames close, and to lessen
the opening of the glasses, in propor-
tion as the air is cold or the beds de-
clining, it never exceeding two inches
under the most favourable circum-
stances. Water is usually required two
or three times a week ; it must be
warmed as before mentioned previously
to its application. Instead of watering
the inside of the frame, it is a good
plan to do so plentifully round the
sides, which causes a steam to rise, and
affords a moisture much more genial to
the plants than watering the mould.

The last stage of growth includes the
blossoming and production of fruit. The
training must be regularly attended to,
and all superabundance of shoots and
leaves especially kept away. If the

the leaves will always droop during hot plants which have been once stopped

days, unless they are shaded, or more
water given them than is proper.

An important operation for the ob-
taining early fruit, but by no means so
necessary for later crops, is the first
pruning, or as it is termed, stopping the
plant, that is, nipping off the top of the
first advancing runner, which is to be
done as soon as the plant has attained
four rough leaves ; this prevents its at-
taining a straggling growth, and compels
it at once to emit laterals, which are
the fruitful branches. When they be-
gin to run, the shoots must be trained

have extended their runners to three
joints without showing fruit, they must
be again stopped.

The impregnation of the fruit now
requires continued attention ; as soon
as a female blossom, which is known
by having fruit beneath the flower-cup,
opens, or on the second morning at
farthest, a fresh full expanded male
flower is to be plucked, with its foot-
stalk pertaining to it, and the corolla or
flower-cup being removed, the remain-
ing central part or anther applied to the
stigma of the female, which is similarly

and pegged down at regular distances, | situated, and the fecundating dust dis-
which not only prevents their rubbmg charged by gently twirling it between
against the glass, but also becoming the finger and thumb. If possible a
entangled with each other. Never i fresh male blossom should be employed
more than two or three main branches' for every impregnation, and the opera-
should be left to each plant, all others' tion performed in the early part of the

to be removed as they appear. If more
are left it causes the whole to be weak,
and entirely prevents the due exposure
of the foliage to the sun. The greatest
care is necessary in regulating the tem-
perature ; it must never be allowed to
decline below 70^ or rise above 95^.
As it decreases, coatings of hot dung
must be applied to the sides, and the
covering increased. The temperature
of the bed, as well as of the exterior
air, governs also the degree of freedom
with which the air may be admitted ;
whenever allowable, the glasses should
be raised. The best time for doing so,
is from ten to three o'clock.

It may not be misplaced to remark,
that chilly Ibggydays are even less pro-
pitious for admitting air than severe
frosty ones ; during such it is best to

day. An attention to this is only re-
quisite to such plants as are in frames;
those grown in the open air are always
sufficiently impregnated by bees and
other insects. If impregnation does not
take place the fruit never swells to more
than half its natural size, nor perfects
any seed, but generally drops imma-
turely. When the male flowers appear
in clusters they may be thinned mode-
rately with benefit; but it is almost
needless to deprecate the erroneous
practice sometimes recommended of
plucking them oft' entirely. As the fruit
advances, tiles, sand, or other material,
must be placed beneath it to preserve
it from specking, or a glass cylinder is
still better; if a bulb containing water is
attached, the fruit grows faster and finer.
The same precautions are necessary as

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regards the preservation of tempera- state the mode. Put five inches of earth

ture, admission of air, &c., as in the se
cond stage of the growtii of the phmts

into a twelve pot, in which plant three
cuttings, taken from as many vigorous

Towards the conclusion of the first pro- 1 bearing branches ; water plentifully ;
duction, it is a good practice to renew place a sheet of glass over the top of
the heat by adding eighteen inches of the pot, the sides of which will siiade
fermenting dung ail round the bed, pre- tlie cuttings until they are rooted;
vious coatings being entirely removed, plunge in a hot-bed ; and in less than a
and to earth over it to the same depth fortnight the plants will be established.
as in the interior of the bed. This pre- The vines thus raised are not so succu-
vents the roots, when they have ex- ' lent as those raised from seed, and con-
tended themselves to the sides of the sequently they are less liable to damp,
bed, being dried by exposure to the | or to suifcr in other ways during win-
air and sun. As the spring advances ter. — Trans. Loud. Uort. Soc.
the glasses may be often taken off dur- [ Hot Water Bed.<i.—li' hot water be the
ing mild days, or even to admit a light source of heat, the following sketch of
tempcraterain. In. June, or July, accord- the bed and frame employed by Mr.
ing to the geniality of the season, they , Mitchell, at Worsley, is about the best
mayberemovedfinally,andeven before,; that can be employed. The objects
the frames may be raised on bricks, so; kept in view when it was constructed,

■■■ Were: — "1st. A circulation of air with-
out loss of heat. 2d. A supply of mois-
ture at command proportionable to the
temperature. 3d. A desirable amount
of bottom heat. 4th. A supply of ex-
ternal air (when necessary) without
producing a cold draught.

Fig. 31.

as to allow the runners to spread at will

For a middling-sized finiily, from four
to eight lights are sutlicicnt to afford a
constant supply, and for a larger one,
double those numbers. During mid-
winter, twelve weeks elapse between
the time of sowing the seed and the fit-
ness of the fruit for gathering; but as
the more temperate seasons of the year
advance, this period decreases gradually
to eight. Between the time of impreg-
nation and their full growth, from fifteen
to twenty days usually elapse. Under
fiivourable circumstances and manage-
ment, the same vines will continue in
production three or four months.

Mr. Mills, one of the most successful I
growers with dung heat, gives me these
leading points of his culture : — | . , ,, . , ,, ~

Mr. Mills sows on the 29th of Sep- , -;L_.i. | '^ '^ | | ' £__;

tember, and transplants into the fruit- I
ing-pit on the 2i)tli of October. Range j

of temperature in pit, 65^ to S5^ and j "The method by which the first of
9.53 ; and of the bottom-heat from 85^ to j these is accomplished, will be under-
9.53. He uses neither saline nor licjuid 1 stood by referring to the section, in
manure. The water employed is about j which a is the tlow-pipes, bb b the re-
80=, but in this Mr. Mills is not particu- turn pipes in the chamber a. It is
lar- Mr. Beaton, to avoid the dcgcne- evident that, as the air in the chamber
rat'ng almost unavoidably incident to i becomes heated, it will escape upwards

the fancy varieties, if propagated by
seed, employs cuttings or layers. His
practice was also adopted by Mr. Mears,
gardener to W. Hanbury, Esq., near
Leominster, and is recommended by
Mr. Mcl'hail. We also saw a very fine

by the opening c, and the cold air from
the passage b will rush in to supply its
place ; but the ascending current of
heated air coming in contact with the
glass, is cooled, descends, and enter-
ing the passage b, passes into the cham-

cucuiiilier, ripened in January of this ber a, where it is again heated ; and
year |,1S44), by Mr. Mills, from a cut- thus a constantcirculation is produced,
ting planted in October. As the end of In order to obtain the second object, I
September is the best time for pursuing j have to some extent combined the tank
this mode of propagation, we will just 1 and pipe systems.

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"The flow-pipe a is put half its di- 1 Training. — There is no doubt that
ameter into the channel c, which when | training near the glass of the frames
filled with water, (or so for as is neces- , upon a trellis, makes the cucumber vine
sary,) gives off a vapour, exactly pro- more prolific, and more enduring. In-
portionable to the heat of the pipe and deed, if trained with proper care, the

same vine may be made to bear through-
out the year.

Hand Glass Crops. — The first sow-
ings for these crops must be in the last

pit

" The third requisition is produced
by the surrounding atmosphere and heat-
ing materials.

" The fourth is accomplished simply ; two weeks of March ; to be repeated in
by lowering the upper sash; the cold the middle of April and May. The seed
air thus entering at the top only, falls ' may be inserted in a moderate hot-bed
directly into the passage b, and passes ; under hand-glasses, or in the upper side
through the hot chamber before coming of one of the frames already in produc-
in contact with the plants. In order to tion, either in pots as directed for the
test the circulation, I fixed a piece of frame crops, or in the mould of thebed,
paper near the front of the pit, and to be pricked into similar situation
found the current to be so strong as to when of four or five days' growth, in-
bend it backwards and give it a tremu- serting only two plants, however, in
lous motion. When the heat in the each pot. They must remain in the
chamber is 95=', in the open space over , hotbed until of about a month's growth,

the bed it is 71^ ; in the bottom of the
passage only 60^ ; and in the mould in
the bed it is 80=.

'• The amount of vapour is regulated
with the greatest facility, even from the
smallest quantity to the greatest den-
sity."— Card. Chron.

Mr. Latter, one of the most success

or until they have attained four rough
leaves ; being then stopped as before
directed they are fit for ridging out
finally.

The ridges may be founded on the
surface, or in trenches a foot and a half
deep, in either case forming them of
well prepared hot dung, three or four

ful of cucumber growers, employs hot i feet wide and two and a half high ; the_
water, and he gives me these leading length being governed by the number of
points in his culture. He sows in the , hand-glasses, between each of which
first week of September, and the vines three feet and a half must be allowed,
from this sowing will be in bearing and The earth is to be laid on eight inches
very strong before February. The ; thick ; when this becomes warm the
seedlings are first shifted into sixty | plants may be inserted two, or at most
sized pots, secondly into twenty-fours, I three, under each glass,
and lastly into the largest size. If to be | Watering, airing, covering, &c., must
trained on a trellis, the runner must be conducted with the precautions di-
not be stopped until it has, trained to a rected to be practised for the frame
stick, grown through the trellis. The ' crops. The glasses should be kept on
temperature in the pit or frame is kept j as long as possible without detriment to
as nearly 65= as possible during the i the plants ; to prolong the time the run-
night, and from 75= to 85= during the ners must be made to grow perpendicu-
da'y ; air being admitted night and day, ; larly ; and still further to protract their
little or much, according to the state ofi continuance, if the season is inclement,
the weather. The bottom heat (Mr. I the glasses may be raised on bricks.
Latter is the champion of the hot-water When no longer capable of confine-
system) is kept as near as can be to 70=, ment, the runners must be pegged down
although he finds that 85= does not regularly, advantage being taken of a
hurt the plants. He waters them with cool cloudy day to perform it in ; but
soft water until February, and then ' the glasses, even now, may be con-
employs liquid manure, taking care that ; tinned over the centre of the plants
the temperature of the liquid is always | until the close of May or early .Tune,
from 75= to 80=. The earth over the \ with considerable advantage. Weeds
hot water tank or pipes ought not to be | must be carefully removed. Waterings
less than fifteen inches deep. Daring | should be performed as often as appears
severe frosts it is an excellent plan to ! necessary.

keep a small floating light burning with- ! If there be a scarcity of dung in the
in the frame every night. I last week in April, or during May, cir-

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CUR

cular holes may be dug, two feet in I many varieties. Hardy or half-hardy
diameter, one deop, and four apart. , trailing annuals. Seeds. Good rich
These being lillod with hot dung, trod j soil. See Cucumber.
in moderately firm, and earthed over, CUCURBITA. Gourds and Pom-
about eight inches, are ready for cither I pions. Ten species and varieties. —
seeds or plants. With the shelter of Hardy trailing annuals. Seeds. Good
the hand-glasses they will be scarcely rich soil.

later in production than the regular CULCITIUM salicinum. Green-
ridges, j house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. —
CUCUMIS. Twenty species, and : Common soil.

Fig. 32.

" CULTIVATOR FOR THE HAND

(Fig. 32) Is made of iron, and is capable
of being expanded at will ; it is of great
utility in clearing out between rows of
vegetables, loosening the soil, and at
once performing the work of four ordi-
nary hoes.'" — Rural Reg.

CULTIVATORS, OR HOE-HAR-
ROWS. " These are now considered in-
dispensable in cultivating corn, potatoes,
and all other crops planted in hills or
drills — doing the work as effectually
as if hoed, and much more expe-
ditiously. The form is varied by the
different makers, especially in the
teeth or hoes. They are made to ex-
pand or contract, so as to accommo-
date in the distance between the
rows." — Rural Reg.

CULLUAIBINE or COLUMBINE.
Aqiiilegin.

CUJNIIN. See Cuminum.

Cl'MIN. See Lago'ecia.

C U Al I N U M . Cyminum. Hardy
annual. Seeds. Common soil.

CUMMINGIA. Four species. llalf-
liardy bulbous perennials. OfTsetts.
Loam and peat.

I CUNNINGHAMIA sifiensis. Green-
house evergreen tree. Cuttings or
seeds. Peat and loam.

CUNONIA capensis. Green-house
evergreen tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

CUPANIA. Seven species. Stove
evergreen trees or shrubs. Cuttings.
Peat and loam.

CUPHEA. Fourteen species. —
Green-house or stove annuals ; and
stove biennial, herbaceous perennial
or evergreen shrubs. The stove spe-
cies grow best in sandy loam, and in-
crease from cuttings. The annuals —
seeds. Common soil.

CUP I A. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam,
I peat, and sand.

CUPRESSUS. Seven species, and
I some varieties. Hardy or green-house
evergreen trees. Seeds or cuttings.
Good rich loamy soil.

C U R A T E L L A . Two species. —
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. —
I Sandy loam.

I CURCULIGO. Six species, and
I variety. Stove or green-house herba-

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CUR

ceous perennials. Offsets,
peat.

Loam and | whole neighbourhood. Our own ob-
servation inclines us to the belief that

CURCULIO. This genus of Beetle, this insect emigrates just in proportion
popularly known as Weevils, are de- as it finds in more or less abundance
structive to fruit, as nuts, nectarines, the tender fruit for depositing its eggs.
and poaches, as well as to peas, &c. 1 Very rarely do we see more than one

There are many species.

puncture in a plum, and, if the insects

C. hctuleti. Vine Weevil. Colour, are abundant, the trees of a single spot

steel-blue. Attacks the leaf, rolling it
up as a nest for its eggs. The pear is
liable to its attacks also. Appears in
June and July.

The species of Curculio, which is
more fatal in its attack than any other,
is popularly known as the Plum-
Weevil. We copy the following article
on the subject, from the Fruits and
Fruit Trees of America

not afford a sufficient number for
the purpose ; then there is little doubt
(as we have seen them flying through
the air,) that the insect flies farther in
search of a larger supply. But usually,
we think it remains nearly in the same
neighbourhood, or migrates but slowly.
" About a week or two after the
blossoms have fallen from the trees, if
we examine the fruit of the plum in a

"The Curculio, or Plum-Weevil, | district where this insect abounds, we
[Rhynchanus Nenuphar,) is the uncom- ' shall find the small, newly formed fruit.

promising foe of all smooth-stone fruits
The cultivator of the Plum, the Nec-
tarine, and the Apricot, in many parts
of the country, after a flattering pro-
fusion of snowy blossoms and an abun-

beginning to be punctured by the pro-
boscis of the Plum-Weevil. The insect
is so small and shy, that unless we
watch closely it is very likely to escape
our notice. But if we strike or shake

dant promise in the thickly set young ; the tree suddenly, it will fall in con-
crops of fruit, has the frequent mortifi- 1 siderable numbers on the ground,
cation of seeing nearly all, or indeed, | drawn up as if dead, and resembling a
often the whole crop, fall from the j small raisin, or, perhaps more nearly,
trees when half or two-thirds grown. j a ripe hemp seed. From the first of
" If he examines these falling fruits, April until August, this insect may be
he will perceive on the surface of each, found, though we think its depreda-
not far from the stalk, a small semi- : tions on fruit, and indeed its appear-
circular scar. This star is the crescent- 1 ance in any quantity, is confined to the
shaped insignia of that little Turk, the month of May in this climate. In
Curculio; an insect so small, as per- j places where it is very abundant, it
haps, to have escaped his observation \ also attacks to some extent the cherry,
for years, unless particularly drawn to j the peach, and even the apple,
it, but which nevertheless appropriates ' " Early in July the punctured plums
to himself the whole product of a tree, ' begin to fall rapidly from the tree.

or an orchard of a thousand trees,

" The habits of this Curculio, or
Plum- Weevil, are not yet fully and en-
tirely ascertained. But careful ob-
servation has resulted in establishing
the following points in its history.

" The Plum-Weevil is a small, dark
brown beetle, with spots of white,
yellow, and black. Its length is
scarcely one-fifth of an inch. On its
back are two black humps, and it is

The egg deposited in each, at first in-
visible, has become a white grub or
larva, which slowly eats its way to-
wards the stone or pit. As soon as it
reaches this point, the fruit falls to the
ground. Here, if left undisturbed, the
grub soon finds its way into the soil.

" There, according to most culti-
vators of fruit, and to our own observa-
tions, the grubs or larva? remain till the
ensuina spring, when in their perfect

furnished with a pretty long, curved i form they again emerge as beetles and
throat and snout, which, when it is at i renew their ravages on the fruit. It is
rest, is bent between the forelegs. It | true that Harris, and some other natu-
is also [irovided with two wings with ' ralists, have proved that the insect does
which it flies through the air. How far j sometimes undergo its final translbrma-
this insect flies is yet a disputed point, ] tion and emerge from the ground in
some cultivators afiirming that it scarce- I twenty days, but we are inclined to the
ly goes farther than a single tree, and i opinion that this only takes place with
others believing that it flies over a a small portion of the brood, which,

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perhaps, have penetrated bat a very season will assist in destroying the in-

short distance below the surface of the
soil. These making tlieir appearance
in midsummer, and finding no young
fruit, deposit their eggs in the young
branches of trees, etc. But it is unde-
niable that the season of the Plum-

sects.

2. Gathering the fruit and destroying
the larv(C. As the insect, in its larva;
cw grub form, is yet within the plums
when they fill prematurely from the
tree, it is a very obvious mode of ex-

Weevil is early spring, and that most terminating the next year's brood to

of the larva; which produce this annual gather these fallen fruits, daily, and

Bwarm, remain in the soil during the feed them to swine, boil, or otherwise

whole period intervening since the fall destroy them. In our own garden.

of the previous year's fruit.

where several years ago we suffered by

"There are several modes of de- ] the Plum-Weevil, we have found that
stroying this troublesome insect. Be- this practice, pursued for a couple of
fore detailing them, we will again seasons, has been pretty effectual,
allude to the fact, that we have never Others have reported less favourably of
known an instance of its being trouble- it; but this, we think, arose from their
some in a heavy soil. Almost always , trying it too short a time, in a soil and
the complaint comes from portions of neighbourhood where the insect is very
country where the soil is light and abundant, ai\d where it consequently
sandy. The explanation of this would had souglit extensively other kinds of
seem to be that the compact nature of fruit besides the plum.
a clayey soil is not favourable to the ! " A more simple and easy way of
passage or life of this insect, while the ' covering the dilhculty, where there is
warm and easily permeable surface of a plum orchard or enclosure, is that of
sandy land nurses every insect through
its tender larva; state. Plum trees
growing in hard trodden court-yards,
usually bear plentiful crops. Follow-
ing these hints some persons have de-
terred the Plum-Weevil by paving be-

turning in swine and fowls during the
whole season, when the stung plums
are dropping to the ground. The fruit,
and the insects contained in it, will
thus be devoured together. This is an
excellent expedient for the farmer, who
neath the trees; and we have lately bestows his time grudgingly on the cares

seen a most successful experiment
which consisted in spreading beneath
the tree as far as the branches ex- j
tended a mortar made of stiflf clay
about the thickness of two or three
inches — which completely prevented
the descent of the insect into the earth.
This is quickly and easily applied, and '
may therefore be renewed every season
until it is no longer found necessary.

" The other modes of destroying
the Plum-Weevil are the following : —

1 . " Shaking the tret and killing the

of the garden.

3. " The use of salt. A good deal of
attention has lately been drawn to the
use of common salt, as a remedy for
the Curculio. Trials have been made
with this sul)Stance in various parts of
the country, where scarcely a ripe
plum was formerly obtained, with tlie
most complete success. On the other
hand, some persons, after testing it,
have pronounced it of no value. Our
own experience is greatly in favour of
its use. We believe that, properly

beetles. Watch the young fruit, and you applied, it is an effectual remedy
will perceive when the insect makes its against the Curculio, while it also pro-
appearance, by its punctures upon them, motes the growth of the tree, anil keeps
Spread some sheets under the tree, and the soil in that state most congenial to
strike the trunk pretty sharply several its productiveness. The failures that
times with a wooden mallet. The in- '• have arisen in its use, have, doubtless,
sects will quickly fall, and should be grown out of an imperfect application,

killed immediately. This should be
repeated daily for a week, or so long
as the insects continue to make their
appearance. Repeated trials have

either in regard to the quantity or the
time of applying it.

" In the directions usually given, it
seems only considered necessary to

proved, beyond question, that this apply salt, pretty plentifully, at any
rather tedious mode is a very effectual
one, if persisted in. Coops of chickens

placed about under the trees at this would destroy insects therein, in any
12

season. If the soil be thoroughly satu-
rated with salt, it is prol)al)le that it

CUR

178

CUR

stage of their growth. But, though tlie crop. More rarely it attacks the pear
plum tree seems fond of saline matter, i blossom. Appears in March and April,
(and one of the most successful experi- : C.pyri. Pear Weevil. Dark brown,
inenters applied strong fish brine, at | very like the apple weevil. April.
the rate of three or four pails full to a | C. oblongus. Oblong Weevil. Red-
tree of moderate size,) it must be con- , dish-brown colour. Feeds on the young
fessed this is a somewhat dangerous : leaves of the peach, apricot, plum, pear,

mode, as the roots are forced to re-
ceive a large supply of so powerful an
agent at once.

" The best method of applying salt

against the Plum-Weevil is that of; in March and April

and apple. Appears in May.

C. pleurofttigma. See Ambury.

C. Uneatus. Striped Pea Weevil.
Ochreous colour, and striped. Appears

strewing it pretty thickly over the sur-
face, when the piinrtured plums com-
mence dropping. The surface of the
ground should be made smooth and
hard, and fine packing salt may then be
evenly spread over it, as flir as the

C. macular ins. Spotted Weevil. Gray
colour. April. Also destroys the pea.
Soot or lime sprinkled over peas early
in the morning before the dew is otf
from them, and so thickly as to cover
the soil about them, would probably

branches extend, and about a fourth of save them. To mitigate the attack of

an inch in depth. Should the weather
be fine, this coat will last until the fruit
infected has all fallen ; should it be dis-
solved or carried oft' by showers, it
must be replaced directly. The larvffi
or grubs of the Weevil, in this most
tender state, emerging from the plum
to enter the ground, will (all a prey to
the effect of the salt before they are
able to reach the soil. If this is care-
fully and generally practised, we have
little doubt of its finally ridding the
cultivator of this troublesome enemy,
even in the worst districts and soils."'

C. ciiprnis. Copper-coloured Weevil.
Attacks the leaves and young shoots of
the plum and apricot, as well as their
fruit. June and July.

C. bacchus. Purple or Apple Weevil.
Pierces the fruit of the apple, deposit-
ing within it its eggs. June and July.

" C. sulcatus. Colour, dull black.
Attacks the shoots and leaves of vines
in hot-houses in January, and those on
walls at the end of May or June. It
will also eat the leaves and fruit of the
peach. It deposits its eggs just below
the surface of the soil, and these not
only injure the roots of the vine, but
those of the seduni, saxifrage, trollius,
auricula, and primrose, detaching the
roots from the crowns.'" — Gard. Chron.
See a fuller description of this insect
under its modern name of Otyorh incus.

C. alliarixB. Stem-boring Weevil.
Steel-green colour. Bores the shoots
and grafis of young fruit trees. Ap-
pears in June and July.

the weevils upon trees, the only mode
is to spread a sheet beneath them, to
shake each branch, and to destroy those
beetles which fall. They usually feed
at night.

C. nucum. Nut Weevil, of v\'hich the
maggot is so frequent in our filberts.
Mr. Curtis thus describes it: — "The
insect is brown, with darker bands ; is
about a quarter of an inch long, and has
a long horny beak, about the middle of
which are placed antenna;. When the
nut is in a young state the female weevil
deposits a single egg. The maggot is
hatched in about a fortnight, and con-
tinues feeding in the interior of the nut
till it is full grown. The nut falls when
the maggot has no legs, nor, indeed,
has it any use for them, being hatched
in the midst of its food ; and when the
nut remains on the tree, it forces itself
out of the hole it eats in the nut, and
falls almost immediately to the ground.
The only remedy we are aware of is,
in the course of the summer to fre-
quently shake the trees, which will
cause all the eaten nuts to fall to the
ground, when they must be collected
and burned." — Gard. Chron.

C.picipes is a dull black, and is very
injurious in the vinery.

C. tenebricosus infests the apricot.
Mr. Curtis says, that " every crevice iu
old garden-walls often swarms with
these weevils; and nothing v/ould prove
a greater check to their increase than
stopping all crevices or holes in walls
with mortar, plaster of Paris, or Roman

C. pomorwn. Apple Weevil. Colour, \ cement, and the interior of hot-houses
dark brown. Attacks the blossom of | should be annually washed with lime ;
the apple, and often destroys the whole | the old bark of the vines under which

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they lurk, should be stripped off early not one was curled
in the spring, and the roots examined full average crop
in October, when they exhibit any un

The produce, a

' Of No. 2 all came up, but from ten
healtiiy symptoms from the attacks of to fourteen days later than those of

the mafrgots of C. sulcahis

'' When the larvie are ascertained to
reside at the base of the wall, salt might
be freely sprinkled, which will kill
them as readily as it will the maggots
in nuts; strong infusions of tobacco-
water, aloes, and ([uassia, are also re-
commended."— Gard. Chron.

CURCUMA. Twenty-one species.
Stove herbaceous perennials. From C.
longa turmeric is obtained. Offsets.
Rich light soil

No. 1, and three of the plants sixteen
days later. Fourteen of the plants were
curled.

" Of No. 3 all came up, but from ten
to fourteen days later than those of No.
1. P'our plants were as severely curled
as those in No. 2, eight were less so,
and the remainder not at' all ; but of
these the produce was below an ave-
rage,and a full fortnightlater in ripening.

" Dickson, Crichton, Knight, and
others, have found that tubers taken up

CURL. A disease of the potato, before they are fully ripened, produce

*' Any one can ensure the occurrence
of this disease by keeping the sets in a
situation favourable to their vegetation,
as in a warm damp outhouse, and then
rubbing off repeatedly the long shoots
they have thrown out. Sets that have

plants not so liable to the curl as those
that have remained in the ground until
completely perfected ; and I believe
under ordinary treatment this to be the
fact, for it is rational. The process of
ripening proceeds-in the potato, as in

been so treated I have invariably found the apple, after it has been gathered ;
produce curled plants. Is not the rea- and until that is perfected it is accumu-
son very apparent ? The vital energy : lating vigour, shows no appetency to
had been weakened by the repeated ' vegetate, consequent!}' is not exhaust-
efforts to vegetate ; so that when planted , ing its vitality, which is a great point,
in the soil, their energy was unequal to considering the careless mode usually
the perfect development of the parts ; adopted to store them through the win-
for the curl is nothing more or less than ter ; for this energy commences its dc-
a distorted or incomplete formation of cline from the moment it begins to de-
the foliage, preceded by an imperfect velope the parts of the future plant.

production of the fibrous roots,

" The variety employed was the Early
Shaw. An equal number of whole mo-
derately-sized potatoes, that had been
treated in three different modes, were
planted the last week of March.

No. 1. Twenty sets that had been

Tubers taken from the soil before per-
; foctly ripe, never are so early in showing
symptoms of vegetation. Crichton, Hun-
ter, and Young, in some of the works
before referred to, have also agreed,
that exposing the sets to light and air,
allowing them to become dry and shri-

carefully kept cold and dry throughout veiled, also inducesthe curl in the plants

the winter, firm, unshrivelled, and with arising from them. This result of ex-

scarcely any symptoms of vegptation. perience also confirms my conclusion,

" No. 2. Twenty sets that had been that the disease arises from deficient

kept warm and moist, and from which vital energy; fiir no process, more than

the shoots, after attaining a length of this drying one of exposure to the light

six inches, had been thrice removed. and air, tends to take away from a tuber

'• No. 3. Twenty sets that had been the power of veL'etating altogether.

kept warm and moist for about half the

Every one acijuainted with the cul-

time that No. 2 liad, and from which tivation of the potato, is aware of the
the shoots, three inches in length, had great difl'erence existing in the varieties;

been removed only twice.

as to their early and rapid vegetation.

" All the sets were planted the same those that excel in this quality are of
morning, each exactly six inches below course the most easily excitable. A
the surface, and each with an unsprout- consequence of this is, that they are
ed eye upwards. The spring was ge- always planted earliest in the spring,
nial. I befi)re their vital power has become

" Of No. ], nineteen plants came up. very active ; and of all crops, practice
The twentieth seemed to have been re- demonstrates that these early ones are
moved by an accident. Of the nineteen , least liable to the curl. But what is

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the consequence, on the contrary, if an j strong. They are first to be deprived
early variety is planted for a main crop of about two or three inches of the
later in the spring, when extraordinary : point, and cut into lengths often inches

pains in keeping them cold and dry
have not been employed to check their
vegetation, and consequent decrease of |
vital energy ? Such crop, then, is more
than any other liable to the disease,
and a good preventive has been sug-

or a foot, according to the size and
strength of the shoots.

Then, with a sharp knife, divest each
shoot of the whole of its buds, except-
ing three or four nearest the top of the
cutting, which must be left to form the

gested by Dr. Lindley, namely, that of branches of tlie future plant,
planting "the tubers in autumn, imme- : Rubbing off the buds is not sufficient;
diately after they have ripened. The they require to be picked out, or pared
results of my view of the disease, sus- ; very close, to prevent them from throw-
tained by numerous experiments, a're, ing up suckers, which materially affect
that it will never occur if the following the growth of the plants, and rob the
points are attended to: — First, that the fruiting branches of most of their nou-
sets are from tubers that exhibit scarcely rishment, when not displaced in proper
any symptoms of incipient vegetation ; time. The small buds towards the base
to effect which they ought, throughout of the cutting are always the most trou-
the winter, to be preserved as cool and blesome in this respect, and great care
as mucli excluded from the air as pos- , should be taken to remove them efFect-
sible. Secondly, that the tubers should ually before the cutting is inserted in
be perfectly ripened. .Thirdly, that they j the ground.

should be planted immediately after i Immediately underneath the part
they are cut. Fourthly, that the ma- which the lowest bud occupied make a
nure applied should be spread regular- clean horizontal cut, without displacing
ly, and mixed with the soil, and not any portion of the bark, and the cutting
along a trench in immediate contact ! is then complete.

with the sets. Fifthly, that the crop is
not raised for several successive years
on the same area." — Principles of Gar-
dening.

CURRANT. {Rihes.)

Black Currant. {R. nigrum.)

1. Black Grape.

2. Black Naples, largest and best.

3. Common Black.

4. Russian Green.

Red Currant. {R. rubrum.)
\. Common Red.
'2. Red Dutch, large and good.

3. Knight's Large Red, largest.

4. Knight's Sweet Red, large, and not

so acid as other red varieties.

5. Knight's Early Red.
Champagne.

6

7

red and white stripes
S. Striped-leaved.
9. Rock Currant.

White Currant. {R. album.)

1. Common White.

2. White Dutch, largest and best.

3. Pearl White.

4. Speary's White.
Soil. — Any fertile garden soil suits

them.

Propagation. — By Cuttings. — The
best shoots for propagating from are

A small spot is next to be dug and
got ready for them, and if it can be
obtained in a situation that is rather
shaded than otherwise, so much the
better.

The cuttings are then to be inserted
in rows a foot apart, six or eight inches
asunder, and two or three inches deep,
and the earth firmly pressed around
them, either with the hand, or by plac-
ing one foot on each side of the row, and
treading it from one end to the other. —
Gard. Chron.

Observe, those designed for common
standards should be trained up to a
twelve or fifteen inch stem, then en-
courage them to branch out all round
at that height to form a full head, for if

Striped-fruited — berries marked with suffered to branch away immediately

I from the bottom, they overspread the
ground, that no crops can grow near
them, as well as appear unsichtly, and
render it inconvenient to do the neces-
sary work — thin the branches to mode-
rate distances.

By Suckers. — All the sorts are too
apt to send up suckers from the roots ;
each sucker forming a proper plant is
the most expeditious mode of propa-
gating. They may be taken up in
autumn, winter, or spring, with roots,

those that are fully ripened, and not too 1 or even such as are without fibres will

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succeed ; planting them either in nur- j purpose gives the following directions :
sery-rows for a year or two, or such as i" Procure stakes four feet in length,
are tall and strong may be planted at and three or three and a half inches in
once, where they are to remain, observ- circumference. To these, disposed after
ing to train the whole for the pur]>oscs this manner, XXXXX, train the trees
intended, as directed for the cuttings, in the fan method, and tie the shoots to
and they will form bearing plants after the stakes with matting. Independent
one or two years- growth. : of^being secure from the wind, there

The propagating by suckers is by are other advantages to be gained by
some objected to, alleging they incline this mode of training; the space taken
to run greatly to suckers again : there up is less, the pruning is more easily
is, however, but little foundation in performed, and the whole surface is
this, for it is peculiar to these shrubs, regularly exposed to the action of the
let them be raised either by seeds, sun and air. The wood is also equally
cuttings, or any other method. and properly ripened, and better crops

By Layers. — The young branches of well-flavoured fruit ensue,
being laid in autumn, winter, or spring, " By this means the late kinds are
will readily strike root, and next autumn likewise much more easily and more
be fit to transplant. securely protected from the depredation

In the general propagation of these of birds and wasps, and from injury by
shrubs we would observe, that as they frost or wet.

naturally throw out many suckers from "A single mat thrown over the bushes
the root, so as often to become trouble- is sufficient to preserve the fruit until
some, it is proper, previous to planting Christmas, or later. And moreover, by
the cuttings and suckers, &c., to rub off this system the trees in matting up are
close all the buds or prominent eyes not disfigured or crushed, the wet is
from the lower part, as far as they are more effectually kept off, as it does not
to be put into the ground, which will in I fall on the mat and soak through to the
some measure diminish their tendency fruit ; but from no flat surface being
in the production of suckers ; likewise, presented the rain runs off the mat as it
when transplanting the young plants, if falls ; the fruit is kept perfectly dry, and
they discover any tendency to the pro- there is little or no injury done to the
duction of suckers, let all such parts mat. The stakes never want renewing,
be also carefully rubbed ofl' close. — as the bushes, when once in a regular
Abercrombie. shape, support themselves." — Gard.

Grafting. — An anonymous writer in Chron.
the Gardener^s Chronicle observes, that After-Culture. — "Never allow the
"standard currants have a pretty ap- branches to be loo crowded, or to in-
pearance, and this is increased if they terfere with one another. The shoots
are grafted with opposite colours, such ■ which spring up in the centre are to be
as black and white, and red, or red and cut away very close, as well as the small
white. Allow the stock to reach four j shoots on the main branches, leaving
feet in height, then let it be stopped so only the external one, which must be
as to make a bushy compact head. shortened for about a third of its length.

" For standards or espaliers, train | If this is done, the bush will have the
cither horizontallyor bythe fan method, | form of a cup, with the branches ranged
about six shoots or more, according to regularly round the stem. Red and
the space you wish to cover on either white currants require the same treat-
side, leaving one for the centre to be ment, as they produce their fruit on
grafted. Train the same number of spurs. The black currant must be
shoots of the worked variety. Each managed differently, as it bears chiefly
leading shoot, if kept and spurred in, I on the shoots of the preceding year,
will bear abundantly, and the fruit will Instead, therefore, of spurring and
also be of finer quality, and of a sweeter otherwise shortening the branches, all
flavour, by being fully exposed to the that is necessary is to thin them, and
sun and air, which is better attained by keep the bushes compact." — Gard.
this method than if the plants were j Chron.
grown in the usual way. I Forcing. — Red and white currants

Training as Espaliers. — Mr. Snow, may be in our desserts during nine
gardener at Swinton Gardens, for this months of the twelve. Pot some three-

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year-old plants during the first week of favourable to the developement ot
January, and place half of them in the roots

peach-house, and the other moiety on
the upper shelf of the green-house

Those plants which vegetate rapidly,
and delight in either a moist or rich

The first will come into bearing early soil, are those which are propagated

in April, and the remainder at the end most readily by this mode, and such

of May. The open ground crop is fit plants are the willow, gooseberry and

for gathering before June closes, and pelargonium; a budded section of these

some of these, if matted over at the end can hardly be thrust into the ground

of July, may be kept good until Decern- without its rooting.

ber terminates.

CURRANT SPHINX.

See Sphinx.

Cuttings of those plants which grow
tardily, or in other words form new parts

C U R T O G Y N E . Three species, slowly, are those which are most liable
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- , to fail. These are strikingly instanced

tings, put for a few days in the sun.
Sandy loam.

CU'SSONIA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Peat and loam.

CUSTARD APPLE. Anona.

CUTTING is a part of a plant capa-
ble of emitting roots, and of becoming
an individual similar to its parent. The
circumstances requisite to effect this

in the heaths, the orange, and cera-
tonia.

A rooted cutting is not a new plant,
it is only an extension of the parent,
gifted with precisely the same habits,
and delighting most in exactly the same
degree of heat, light and moisture, and
in the same food.

A cutting produces roots, either from
a bud or eye, or from a callus resem-

of moisture.

uitable temperature and degree bling a protuberant lip, which forms

from the alburnum between the wood

Cuttings in general may be taken and the bark round the face of the cut
either from the stem, branch, or root; which divided the slip from the parent
and are, in fact, grafts, which by being stem. If the atmospheric temperature
placed in the earth, a medium favour- is so high that moisture is emitted from
able to the production of roots these the leaves faster than it is supplied, they
emit, instead of aiding the stock to droop or flag, and the growth of the
effect that development of vessels neces- plant is suspended. If a cutting be
sary for their union to it, had they been placed in water, it imbibes at first more
grafted. A due degree of moisture in rapidly than a rooted plant of the same
the soil is absolutely required from it by size, though this power rapidly de-
cuttings, for these" will often produce i creases; but if planted in the earth, it
roots "if placed in water only. The I at no time imbibes so fast as the rooted
time for taking off cuttings from the plant, provided the soil is similarly moist;
parent plant for propagation, is when and thisevidently because ithasnot such
the sap is in full activity ; the vital an extensive imbibing surface as is pos-
energy in all its parts is then most po- ; sessed by the rooted plant; consequent-
tent for the development of the new \ ly, the soil in which a cutting is placed
organs their altered circumstances re- I should be much more moist than is
quire. Well-matured buds are found to i beneficial to a rooted plant of the same
emit roots most successfully, and appa- species, and evaporation from the leaves
rently for the same reason that they are should be checked by covering the cut-
least'liable to failure, when employed tings with a bell-glass, or a Wardian
for budding, viz., that being less easily | case would be still better. The tem-
excitable, they do not begin to develop perature to which the leaves are ex-
until the cutting has the power to afford | posed should be approaching the lowest
a due supply of sap. Therefore, in i the plant will endure. Thewarmerthe
taking a cutting, it is advisable to re- ; soil within the range of temperature
move" a portion of the wood having on most suitable to the plant, the more
it a bud, or joint, as it is popularly call- active are the roots, and the more ener-
ed, of the previous year-s production. : getically are carried on all the processes
Many plants can be multiplied by cut- of the vessels buried beneath the sur-
tings with the greatest difficulty, and j face of the soil ; 50° for the atmosphere,
after every care has been taken to se- , and between 65*' and lo'' for the bottom
cure to the cutting every circumstance | heat, are the most eflFectual temperatures

CUT

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CUT

for the generality of plants. The cutting been considered totally incapable of

should be as siiort as possible consist- such extension. Thus M. Neumann

ently wiili the object in view. Three has succeeded with the Thcophra^tn

or four leaves, or even two, if the cut- latifolia; and going a step further, he

ting be very short, are abundant. They has even bisected a leaf, and raised a

elaborate the sap quite as fast as re- leaf from each half

qnired,and are not liable to exhaust the Mr. Knight has also recorded in the

cutting by super-exhalation of moisture. Horticultural Transactions of 1822,

Cuttings taken from the upper branch- that leaves of the peppermint {Mentha

es of a plant, flower and bear fruit the piperita), without any portion of the

earliest, but those taken from near the stem upon which they had grown, lived

soil are said to root most freely. Cut- for more than twelve months, increased

tings which reluctantly emit roots may in size, nearly assumed the character

be aided by ringing. The ring should ' of evergreen trees, and emitted a mass

be cut round the branch a few weeks of roots. That leaves may be made

before the cutting has to he removed ; almost universally to emit roots there

the bark should be completely removed appears little reason to doubt ; for the

down to the wood, and the section di- same great physiologist had long before

viding the cutting from the parent be proved that the roots of trees are gene-
made between the ring and the parent rated from vessels passing from the

stem, as soon as a callus appears round leaves through the bark ; and that they

the upper edge of the ring.

never in any instance spring from the

The soil is an important considera- alburnum. But the question arises,
tion. The cuttings of orange trees and will they produce buds? and at pre-

others which strike with difficulty if in
serted in the middle of the earth of a
pot, do so readily if placed in contact
with its side. The same effect is pro-
duced by the end of the cutting touch-
ing an under drainage of gravel or
broken pots. Why is this? My obser-

sent the answer derived from practice
is in the negative; orange leaves, rose
leaves, leaves of Stat ice arborea, have
been made to root abundantly; but
like blind cabbage plants, they obsti-
nately refused to produce buds.

Dr. Lindlev thinks that a more abund-

vations justify me in concluding that it ant supply of richer food, and exposure
is because in these situations, the side to a greater intensity of light, would
and the open drainage of the pot, the have removed this deficiency; and I
atmospheric air gains a salutary access, [see every reason for concurring with so
A light porous soil, or even sand, which j excellent an authority ; for buds seem
admits air the most readily, is the best : to spring from the central vessels of
for cuttings; and so is a shallow pan plants, and these vessels are never ab-
rather than a (lower pot, and apparently sent from a leaf If an abundant sup-
for the same reason. I have no doubt ply of food were given to a well-rooted
that numerous perforations in the bot- leaf, and it were cut down close to the
torn of the cutting pan would be found callus, from whence the roots are emit-
advantageous for" cuttings which root ted, I think buds would be produced,

slowly.

for the very roots themselves have the

Some plants may be successfully same power
propagated by means of the leaves, and In general, the young wood strikes
among those whose numbers are thus most readily. Those of the Semecarpus
most commonly increased, are the Cac- mahogani, Swietenia mahogani, Eu-
ti, Gcsnerx, Gloxinia, and other fleshy phorbia litchi, and others, must have
leaved plants. Lately the suggestion the wood quite soft, and must be in-
has been revived, — a suggestion first serted in the soil under bell-glasses the
made by Agricola at the commence- moment they are cut. On the contrary,
ment of the last century. He states cuttings of milky, gummy or resinous
that M. Mandcrola had raised a lemon- plants, such as Araucaria, Euphorbia,
tree in this mode ; and thence con- and Vahea gummifera, require to be
eludes, rather too rashly, that all exotic buried in damp sand for twenty-four
leaves may at any time be converted hours, with the wound exposed, and
into trees. Since that was written, in then to be planted, after having the
1721, it is certain that plants have been exuded matter washed off with a sponge,
raised from leaves that previously had , Herbaceous plants having a partial de-

C Y A

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velopmentofwood,as the Pelargonium,
Calceolaria, and Cineraria, will strike
in any place shaded from the meridian
sun. Cuttings of fleshy-leaved plants,
as the Cacti, and many others, root
better after being allowed to remain for
forty-eight hours, after division from
the parent plant, before they are plant-
ed. Diosmas, fuchsias, heaths, camel-
lias, &c., require for their cuttings the
gentle heat of a nearly exhausted hot-
bed, and a close atmosphere, with but
little light admitted night and morning.
The bell-glasses employed should be
proportioned to the size of the cutting.
A small cutting should no): be placed
under a large glass. Blue and violet-
coloured glass is found most favourable
for the purpose, and this is accounted
for by the fact, that glass of this colour
admits very few luminous or leaf-
stimulating rays of light; but nearly all
the chemical rays of the spectrum,
■which assist in the decomposition of
bodies. M. Neumann has succeeded
in striking cuttings of monocotyle-
donous plants, such as Draycena,Frey-
cenettia, and Vanilla. The cuttings
may be from branches of any age be-
tween less than one and six years old.
They require to have the leaves cut
away at the bottom of tlie cutting, the
•whole, length of the portion to be buried.
It is not necessary to use the extremi-
ties of branches, pieces from their mid-
dles answer as well. M. Neumann also
thinks that all dicotyledonous plants
may be multiplied by cuttings of their
roots, or even by detached leaves.
Dais cotinifolia is increased from cut-
tings of the roots, and so is Faulownia
imperialis. Pieces two inches long,
and half an inch in diameter, and cut in
March, root well. Maclaura aurantiaca
succeeds similarly even in the open air,
the upper wound of the cutting being
placed nearly level with the surface.
He has also multiplied Araucaria Cun-
ninghami, and all the Coniferce, by root
cuttings.

Soil. — The soil most generally appli-
cable, is that which is rich and light.
Some cuttings, as those of the Tamarix
elegans and T. germanica, require a
little saltpetre in the soil.

CYAMOPSIS psoraloides. Hardy
annual. Seeds. Common soil.

CYANELLA. Five species. Green-
house bulbous perennials. Offsets.
Sandy loam and peat. |

CYANOTIS. Three species. Green-
house biennials. Seeds. Rich mould.
C. barbata is a hardy herbaceous peren-
nial. Increased by division.

CYATHEA. Two species. Stove
evergreen ferns. Division or seeds.
Peat and loam.

CYATHODES. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Peat and loam.

CYCAS. Five species. Stove her-
baceous perennials. Suckers. Rich
loam.

CYCLAMEN. Ten species, and
many varieties. Hardy or green-house
tuberous-rooted perennials. Seeds.
Sandy loam and vegetable mould. Spe-
cies most worthy of culture are —

C. Coum. Round-leaved, spring-
flowering sowbread. Reddish purple.
January to March.

C. Europceum. Round-leaved, sum-
mer-flowering sowbread. Reddish
purple. Fragrant. July to September.

C. vernum. Round-leaved winter-
flowering sowbread. Like preceding.
November to January.

C. Persicum. Persian sowbread.
Various colours. February to May.

C. Neapolitanum. Neapolitan sow-
bread. Rosy. August to September.

C. hederdfolium. Ivy-leaved sow-
bread. White and pink. Fragrant.
March to May.

Mr. G. Gordon, of the Chiswick Gar-
dens, gives the following excellent
directions for their culture : —

" The Cyclamen is increased by cut-
ting the largest roots in pieces, which
is a bad practice, as they are very liable
to rot during the first season after cut-
ting, or while in a dormant state, un-
less the parts are kept very dry, a
thing very injurious to the early flower-
ing kinds.

"£!/ Seeds, which should be sown
when ripe, whether it be autumn or
spring, in pans or pots well drained,
and filled with a mixture of equal parts
of sandy loam and leaf-mould, to which
should be added a small portion of well-
rotted dung. Then place the pans or
pots in a cold frame or pit, kept close,
if sown in the spring ; but if sown in
the autumn, they should be placed on
the back shelf of the green-house, and
kept rather dry during the winter, and
gradually watered more as the spring
advances.

" The autumn-sown plants will be fit

CYC

185

C YP

for transplanting about the end of May, | remain in the pots, and not be shaken
or beginning of June following, if pro- out, as is frequently done; for when
perly treated ; whilst those sown in the taken out of the soil they are almost
spring should not be removed from the sure to get too much dried before they
seed-pans before the following spring; are again potted. This is particularly
they will by that time have formed roots the case with the early flowering sorts

about the size of a hazel-nut. Prepare
then some large pots or pans, well
drain, and fill them with the same kind
of soil as that in which these seeds were
sown, and transplant the young roots
from the seed pans into these, placing
them about three or four inches apart
according to tlie size of the roots.
Return them to the cold pit or frame,
and keep them close until they begin
to grow ; afterwards admit air freely
by day, but keep the pit close at night,
till the beginning of July, when the pots
or pans should be plunged, and the
plants fully exposed, both day and

' The proper time of the year for
resting the flowering roots, entirely de-
pends on the sorts. C. Persicum will
be at rest when the C. Europaum and
C. Neapolitmium will be in full bloom,
and vice versa. The roots should be
shaken from the soil, and repotted
directly the least sign of vegetation is
observable. But the early spring-
flowering kinds may be forced earlier
into bloom by potting a few of the
strongest roots sooner, and placing
them in a warm dry place. They must
not be excited too rapidly, or watered
freely; for if they are, the leaves are

right; taking care, however, that the almost sure to damp ofTduring the dull
soil in the pots does not get sodden with winter months, and particularly those
too much rain, or become too dry. of the beautiful C. Persicum and its
They will require no more trouble, ; varieties." — Card. Chron.

Curious
Suckers.

CYCLANTHUS plumieri.

except keeping free from weeds and

slugs, till the middle of September, ^tove herbaceous perennial.

when they should be potted singly into Loam and peat

small forty-eight sized or sixty pots,

(according to the size of the roots,)

filled with the same kind of soil as that

previously used.

" In potting, the bulbs should never
be entirely covered with the soil, but
about one-third left exposed. When

CYCLOBOTHRA. Five species.
Hardy, half-hardy, or green-house bul-
bous perennials. Bulbs. Peat, loam
and sand.

CYDONIA. Three species, and four
varieties. Hardy deciduous fruit trees
or shrubs. Suckers. Any soil suits

potted, they should be placed on the them. C. vulgaris, the quince
back shelf of the green-house, or in a
cold pit, where they can be kept dry
and free from frost, until they begin to
grow. If they are the early flowering
kinds, a few may be placed in the win-
dow of the sitting-room, and but spar-
ingly watered until they commence
growing, when they should have a more
liberal supply.

" The roots will begin to bloom the
second season, and may be placed on
the shelves of the green-house ; or if
they are of those hardy kinds which
flower in summer or autumn, the pots
may be plunged in the open border.
When done flowering they should be
returned to the cold pit or frame, where
the lights must be kept on during the
night, in cold or wet weather; but
where they can have plenty of air at all
times, observing as they cease growing,
that water should be withheld, and
finally, the roots gradually dried. The
roots, when dry, should be allowed to

CYLINDROSPORIUM concen?rzc«m.
A parasitical fungus often attacking the
cabbage, forming a blight or mildew.
Repeated syringing with water in which
three ounces per gallon of salt have
been dissolved, will remove it.

CYLISTA. Four species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

CYMBIDIUM. Seventeen species.
Stove orchids. Division. The terres-
trial kinds, loam and peat. The epi-
phytal, wood.

CYMBOPOGON Schcenanthus . A
stove species of grass. Seeds. Loam
and peat.

CYNOCHE pentadactylum. Stove
epiphyte. Offsets. Fibrous peat.

CYNOGLOSSUM. Twenty-two spe-
cies. Hardy annuals, biennials, or
herbaceous perennials. Division. Com-
mon soil.

CYPELLA. Two species. Green-

CYP

186

D AH

ousG bulbous perennials. Offsets.
Sandy peat.

CYPHIA. Five species. Green-
house annuals. Seeds. Common soil.
C. phyteuma is a tuberous-rooted, and
C. cardamincs a stove herbaceous pe-
rennial. Young shoots. Peat, loam
and sand.

CYPRESS. Citpressus.

CYNARA. (See Cardoon and Arti-
choke.) Eight species. Chiefly hardy
herbaceous perennials. Seeds. Good
rich soil.

CYNIPS. Gall-fly. The species of
this genus chiefly confine their attacks
to the oak and other timber trees. The
species chiefly noticeable by the garden-
er is the C. roscE, which causes the hairy
galls occasionally observed upon rose
trees.

CYPRIPEDIUM. Lady's slipper.
Twelve species, and variety. Chiefly
hardy terrestrial orchids. Division.
Sandy peat.

An anonymous writer gives the fol-
lowing correct directions for their culti-
vation : —

" The sorts in general cultivation
are, Cypripedium venustum (purple and
green) ; piii'puratum (purple); insigne
(green and purple) ; humile (purple and
white) ; guttatum (yellow) ; ventricosum
(dark purple); and our own pretty na-
tive species, Calceolus (yellow).

«' or these the three first are from
warm latitudes, and consequently re-
quire the temperature of a stove ; the
remaining sorts come principally from
North America, and are either hardy,
or require but a moderate protection
during the winter and spring.

"The stove kinds are found to suc-
ceed tolerably well by being potted in
Boil composed of rotten wood, moss,
and a little silver sand; while the
hardier kinds thrive best when planted
in a shady situation in sandy peat.

" The American varieties require a
protection of straw, or some other ma-
terial, to preserve them from the effects
of severe frosts, and to throw off the
rain in wet seasons.

" At Messrs. Rollison's, of Tooting,
they succeed remarkably well in a peat
border adjoining the back wall of a
heath house, being covered during the
winter and spring months with sphag-
num to the depth of two or three inches.
Another successful method of treating
them, is to pot them in good sized pots,

in a mixture of sandy peat and rotten
saw-dust, keeping them in a cool
green-house or frame.

" They are difficult of increase. They
may sometimes be propagated by divi-
sion of the roots ; this, however, occurs
but rarely. Occasionally, in favourable
situations, they will perfectseeds ; espe-
cially, if care is taken, when the flowers
are in a proper state, to apply the pollen
to the stigma with a camel hair pencil.

" As they are plants which thrive
only in shady situations, where the
ravs of the sun do not penetrate with
sufficient power to cause a spedy eva-
poration, but little moisture will be ne-
cessary even during the summer, parti-
cularly if the soil be protected with a
covering of moss; and during their pe-
riod of rest in the autumnal and winter
months, water may be entirely dispensed
with." — Gard. Chron.

CYRILLA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

CYRTANTHUS. Nine species.
Green-house bulbous perennials. Off-
sets. Turfy loam, sand and peat.

CYRTOCHILUM. Four species.
Stove orchids. Division. Wood, with
moss on the roots.

CYRTOPERA Woodfordii. Stove
orchid. Division. Wood.

CYRTOPODIUM. Three species.
Stove orchids. Division. Wood.

CYTISUS. Forty-one species, and
some varieties. Chiefly hardy decidu-
ous shrubs and trees, with a few green-
house evergreens. Seeds, layers, grafts,
or buds Any soil suits them.

CZACHIA liliastrum. Hardy herb-
aceous perennial. Seeds or division.
Good rich loam.

DACRYDIUM. Two species. Green-
house evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat. * *

DACTYLICAPUOS thalicitrifolia.
Half-hardy evergreen climber. Seeds.
Sandy soil.

DiEMIA. Four species. Stove ever-
green twiners. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

DAFFODIL. Narcissus pseudo-nar-
cissus.

DAHLIA. Seven species. Tuberous
perennials. Cuttings, division, and seed.
Rich sandy loam. The two species
giving birth to the numerous lovely va-
rieties of our gardens are B. superflua
and D.frustanea.

D AH

187

D AH

Varieties. — These are numerous ; so Exemia, Girling, bright rose, very
much so as in many instances to baffle showy flower.

Exquisite, white rosy edge.

Fire Ball, Squibb, vivid crimson,
finely quilled.

Fire King, Schmitz, bright scarlet,
very large.

(ilory of Plymouth, Rendle, white
tipped with purple.

Golden Souvenir, Schmitz, bright
yellow, finely cupped.

Grandis, Marshal, fine rose.

Grand Bazaar, Schmitz, crimson and
lilac.

Granta, Widnall, claret colour, fine.

Great Mogul, Atwell, shaded crim-
son, fine.

Henry Clay, Schmitz, dark claret.

the eye, in the attempt to discriminate
between those which bear distinct
names. The following, selected from
the catalogue of D. Landreth & Fulton,
Philadelphia, are admitted to be among
the most desirable varieties.

Admiral Stoplord, Trentfield, dark
maroon, fine form.

Albion, Cook, bronzy salmon.

Alexander the Grc-.i. Schmitz, dark
crimson.

Antagonist, Bragg, pure white,
finely cupped.

Apollo, Schmitz, golden yellow,
cupped petals.

Arethusa, Brown, violet purple.

Argo, Widnall, bright yellow, good ' cupped, fine.

form.

Argus, Schmitz, primrose yellow,
tipped with rose.

Asmodeus, dark puce.

Beauty of Chelmslbrd, white and la-
tender.

Beauty of Philadelphia, Schmitz, yel-
low tipped with rose, fine form.

Bedford Surprise, rosy crimson, very
fine.

Beeswing, Drummond, crimson.

Bermondsey Bee, purple, fine form.

Bloomsbury, Lee, bright crimson, su-
perb form.

Bridal Ring, white and lavender.

Burnham Hero, Church, crimson, fine
form.

Caleb Cope, Schmitz, mottled rose.

Cheltenham Queen, blush white.

Cleopatra, .-1/we//, light yellow.

Colonel Baker, claret, finely cupped.

Competitor, Hodge, dark rose.

Constantia, white, edge pink.

Conqueror, Schmitz, dark maroon,
finely cupped.

Dazzle, dark scarlet.

Defiance, Uorwood, rosy crimson.

Desdemona, Schmitz, primrose, beau-
tifully cupped.

Dowager Lady Cooper, peach blos-
som, cupped.

Duchess of Richmond, orange and
pink, fine.

Duke of York, Jireyraes, fine scarlet,

Emily, Schmitz, white edged with j form, extra fine

Hero of Stonehenge, Whales, dark
claret, very fine.

Hero of Tip|)ecanoe, Hancock, superb
rose, finely cupped.

Hero of the West, Schmit z, rosy c&t-
mine, very large.

Hon. Miss Abbott, delicate lilac.

Hope, Neville, light rose, fine flower.

Horace Binney, Schmitz, sha.dcd ma-
roon, extra fine.

Indispensable, white, the best out.

Indian Chief, Schmitz, salmon.

Juliette, Widnall, rosy purple.

Juno, Buist, bronzy lilac.

King of Lilacs, very fine lilac.

King of Yellows, Hislop, light yel-
low, very fine.

Lady Antrobus, white, purple edge.

Lady Ashburton, Russell, h\ush white,
edged with lilac.

Lady Bathurst, white laced with rose.

Lady St. Maur, white tipped with pur-
ple, superb flower.

Lady Sale, Smith, yellow edge rose.

La Tour de Auvergne, orange scar-
let, finely cupped.

Le Grand Baudin, shaded crimson,
fine form.

Lord Morpeth, puce, cupped.

Maid of Bath, Davis, white, purple
edge.

Majestic, Widnall, shaded rose, pro-
fuse.

Marchioness of Exeter, blush, superb

rose.

Enterprise, Dodd, clear bufi".

Essex Triumph, Turville, dark ma-
roon, fine form.

Eugenia, yellow, edge violet.

Evecque de Bayeaus, Oudtn, maroon.

Marchioness ofOrmonde, white tip-
ped with purple, superb.

Mary Ann, Schmitz, pure white,
finely cupped.

Marshal Soult, lilac and red.

Middlesex rival, dark rose.

D AH

188

D AH

Miranda, Brown, blush white, tipped
with rose.

Miss Carpentier, Schmitz, mottled
rose.

Miss Percival, Schmitz, pure white.
Mrs. nibbert, Schmitz, blush rose,
cupped petals.

Mrs. Jones, Buist, dove colour.
Mrs. Rushton, Buist, white tipped
with rose, fine.

Mrs. Shelly, Mitchell, rose and lilac,
beautiful flower.

Negro, SchniitZj dark maroon.
Ne Plus Ultra, Widnall, rich dark
purple, cupped.

Nigra et Alba, Girling, white edged
with purple.

Northern Beauty, Robinson, white
tipped with rose, superb.

Nymph, Schmitz, yellow tipped with
rose.

Ophir, Edwards, rich yellow, fine
flower.

Orange Superb, orange, finely cupped.
Orb, fFidnaZZ, scarlet crimson, superb.
Pandora, Bowman, crimson, cupped
petals.
Pickwick, purple, finely cupped.
Pocahontas, Schmitz, vermilion, large
and fine.

Pontiac, Schmitz, orange edged with
red, superb.

Prince Albert, Adams, light brown,
cupped petals.

Princess Royale, Hudson, amber
tipped with rose, fine.
Punch, Dodd, purple.
Queen, Widnall, peach blossom.'
Queen of Beauty, Garth, rich lilac,
neat flower.

Queen of Roses, superb rosy lilac.
Queen of Trumps, white, lilac edge.
Quilled Perfection, very fine rose.
Reine des Fees, Girling, crimson and
white.

Reliance, Widnall.
Rienzi, Widnall, crimson and puce.
Rising Sun, Widnall, dark crimson.
Roderick, Schmitz, rosy crimson.
Royal Standard, Whales, rosy purple,
finely cupped.
Simon Snyder,ScAmi72r, large crimson.
Sir E. Antrobus, Keynes, fiery crim-
son.

Sir F. Johnston, Hillier, rosy crim-
son, superb flower.

Springfield Major, Gaines, d^rk crim-
son, cupped.

Standard of Perfection, Keynes, pur-
ple.

Striata Formosissima, white striped
with rose.

Sunbury Hero, W ilmer, yeUow tipped
with red.

Sylph, Widnall, white edged with
rose.

Thomas Clarkson, Smith, rosy pur-
ple.

Triumphant, Schmitz, white edged
with lilac, fine.

Ultimatum, bright red.

Unique, Ansell, yellow tipped with
red.

Victor, W'^/(?/!7/Z, yellow, tipped crim-
son.

Violet Perfection, Keynes, dark pur-
ple, fine flower.

Washington Irving, Schmitz, light
purple.

Westbury Rival, IfaZZ, deep crimson.

White Defiance, Schmitz, white,
cupped petals.

Yellow Victory, Schmitz, fine yellow.

FANCY, OR VARIEGATED DAHLIAS.

Alba-purpurea Supcrba, Bates, pur-
ple tipped with white.

Beauty of England, Girling, purple
tipped with white.

Charles XII., Miller, purple tipped
with white.

Cinderella, Dubras, cherry tipped
with white.

Donna Antoni, Beelius, rose tipped
with white.

Eleamc de Beaucour, Girling, white,
purple edge.

Evecque de Tournay, purple tipped
with white.

Fairy Queen, Keynes, fawn tipped
with red.

Harlequin, Dodd, white tipped with
bright scarlet, splendid flower.

Illuminator, Keynes, scarlet edged
with white, fine fancy variety.

Le Lione, creamy white, edged with
scarlet, fine.

Madam Chauvere, light rose tipped
with white.

Madame Rignou, crimson, edged with
white.

Madame de Schaunenfeld, Girling,
dark rose tipped with white.

Madame Walner, Girling, maroon
tipped with white.

Miss Funnel, purple tipped with
white.

Nihil, red tipped with white.

Painted Lady, crimson tipped with
white.

D AH

189

D A H

Silvio, Bubras, cherry red tipped
with white.

Surprise, Oakley, purple, distinctly
tipped with white.

Village Maid, purple, tipped with
white.

Viscount Ressigueur, Du6?"as, purple
tipped with white, large, full, superb
flower.

"The dahlia is very variable, sporting

roots dying during the winter season."
— Gard. Chi'on.

Propagation by Division. — " A good
criterion for planting this root," says
a writer in the Gard. Mag., " is about
the time of planting early potatoes for
a first crop, but no sooner. They grow
well in a rich light soil of almost any
kind. In dividing the root, it is ad-
visable to leave at least two eyes to

from its true colours, but as often re- each plant, cutting through the neck or
turning to them. Knowing this, let the
following facts, with regard to new
kinds of dahlias, be borne in mind be-
fore condemning them the second

year : —

crown. Ihe spring is the most pre-
ferable time for dividing them, al-
though some do it on taking them up
in the autumn.

' Those who possess a hot-house

1. That the seedling plant is much , should put each plant into a pot of six
debilitated by propagation ; and there- ' or eight inches in diameter, with some
fore the flowers are rarely as good the j good rich mould, so as the crown may
second season as they are the first and just appear at the top of the pot ; then
subsequent to the second. [ place them in the green-house, where

"2. That the best flowers are ob- they will soon make good plants : and
tained from those plants struck from when all danger from frost is over, they
the first cuttings produced by the mo- may be turned out into holes prepared
ther-plant, notwithstanding that they for them. In this manner, after being
are seldom as strong as the cuttings so long confined, they will grow most
that are afterwards produced. ! luxuriantly.

" 3. The exciting the roots by means " A common cucumber-frame may
of a strong heat early in the spring, and be successfully used in this way." —
striking the young plants in a strong Gard. Mag.

dung-bed, tend to weaken the plants By Grafting. — This is performed in
so treated to such a degree that they the months of August, September, and
frequently require two or three seasons October; and it is an excellent practice
to recover and regain their original cha- to avoid the chance of losing a seed-

racter. Thus it is found that good
flowers are obtained with the least trou-
ble from those plants kept in pots the
first season after striking, (termed by
the trade pot-roots,) planted out the
following season, and allowed to start
of their own accord.

" 4. That in wet seasons manure is
frequently very injurious from its caus-
ing the plant to grow too luxuriantly,
and thus to produce but tew flowers ;
while in very dry seasons it is equally
injurious. Much more depends on a
change of soil than on its composition
and quality.

" 5. That water is a point which can-
not be too much attended to. A great
difference exists between hard and soft
water, but still more depends on the
manner in which it is applied ; for one
or two good waterings are much better
than a small quantity given three or
four times a week.

" 6. That taking up the roots imme-
diately after a frost has destroyed the
top, is the principal cause of so many

"ng:

or new or scarce varieties.
Fig. 33.

D AH

190

D AH

" It is, moreover, particularly appli- I themselves. Plant in rows three feet;
cable to those kinds which are horny- | two feet if in the flower-border. Plant

rooted and difficult to break ; or such as
' Taylor's Sultana,' with long stringy
tubers, which seldom live through the
winter; and to others which break late.
To all such this mode is recommended

in the back rows. They require to be
staked. Seedlings thus treated will
blow in July, and continue in perfection
till the autumn." — Hart. Transac.
By cuttings. — " The shoots are ai-

with the greatest confidence of success, j lowed to grovv until they have three
The operation is exceedingly simple, pair of leaves, and they are cut off just
(see figure 33), and may be performed ! under the second pair and above the
at any time from January to December, i lowest pair. Where one cutting is
(provided you have a good growing i taken off plenty of others follow, and
heat,) not only with young green shoots, ! these are to be served the same way.
but with others more advanced, if not! There must be care used that the cut-
hollow or pithy. The usual manner is' tings taken off are from three to four
to take a scion with six or eight leaves, | inches long, and that you leave a pair
cut it smooth below the joint, take off [ of leaves below ; for at every leaf there
one of the lower leaves without injuring ' is an embryo bud which will form a
the eye, and then cut away a portion j shoot, which shoot will in turn yield a
(half or three-quarters of an inch) of the ' cutting, and in two other embryo buds."

skin or fleshy part of the wood between
each of the lower eyes

Glenny: Gard. and Pract. Flor.

" The cuttings, when taken off, may

" Have ready a good sound piece of j be struck the same as shoots, but they
tuber of the last or present season (if | do not take root so rapidly. It must
ripe), in which make a slanting longi-! dejiend on the room you have whether
tudinat incision of one or two inches, you will plant a dozen cuttings round a
according to circumstances, and about forty-eight-sized pot, or put one cutting
half an inch wide at top, gradually t each into twelve small ones. In one
tapering off to the bottom, and fix the 1 case but little room is taken up while

scion firmly into it. The root should
then be planted in a pot, with the
grafted part just below the mould, and
placed under a bell-glass, or in a warm
close frame ; but the former is best.

" In eight or ten days the union will
be complete, and air may be gradually
given. After a short time you will be
able to head it down, either forcuttings,
if in spring, or grafts for summer and
autumn. It is advisable to leave at all
times four eyes, to ensure a vigorous
growth; and also to shift the plant into a
larger pot occasionally." — Gard. Chron.

By Seed. — Mr. Sabine gives the fol-
lowing directions : —

" Collect the seed in September from

they are striking, and this is often of
importance. When they have struck
root they must be potted singly into
sixty-sized pots, or thumb-pots, kept in
heat a few days to establish them, and
then be replaced under some kind of
protection till planting them." — Ibid.

Propagation by eyes. — " In cases,"
adds Mr. Glenny, " where it is of great
importance to increase a plant, they
may be propagated by eyes, which will
double the increase. In this case there
may be half a dozen or more plants
made out of one shoot, or seedling,
taken off properly. Suppose there be
three parts of leaves besides the end
joint, the end joint, which will have two

„„..„,-■...„- — „... — , .. — J , — J , - --

dwarf plants and from semi-double leaves, and the heart may be cut off

flowers, when double varieties are
chiefly desired. Perhaps seeds obtain-
ed from those particular florets of the
disc which have altered their form, may
have a greater tendency than others to
produce plants with double flowers.
Sow in March, heat of 55^ or 65^ ;
prick out, if necessary, in pots, and
keep in a moderate temperature, say
60° or 55", till the end of April. Plant

close to the under leaves, which may
be carefully removed ; and thus forms
a cutting. The stem left is to be split
up, each half having the two or three
leaves. These are to be cut close under
each leaf Half the portion of split
stem, and the whole of the leaf, still
remain, and these must be put an inch
into the soil, each forty-eiglit-sized pot
holding six, planted against the sides.

out to remain, covering each plant at , The bud at the base of each leaf will
night with an empty pot for some weeks, } make a plantif placed in a hot-bed : and
to avoid injury from spring frosts to i when they have become well rooted

D A H

191

D AH

they may be placed in separate pots,
and kept growing in heat until tliey are
six or eight inclies higii, when thev may
be taken into a cooler frame." — Card,
and Prart. Flor.

Propagation from summer shoots. —
" The most important operation in
dahlia-growing,"' concludes Mr. (llen-
ny, " is that of securing an increase
from the shoots, which can he taken

for it is by these that the strength of
the jihint gets exhausted. By removing
all that are too near one to be bloomed,
and al! tliose that show imperfections
enough to prevent them being useful,
much strength will be gained by the
future flowers. So, also, by pulling off
the blooms themselves, the moment
they are past perfection, instead of let-
tins them seed." — Glenny : Card, and

off after the plants have begun to grow ' Pract. Flor.
in the open ground. These should be i " Winds and sun," adds an anony-
Ktruck in the same way as other cut- , mous but correct writer, " are both
tings; but they niust be selected care- detrimental ; and the practice of fixing
fully, cut as others are cut, close up to ! the blooms in the centre of a flat board,
the under side of a pair of leaves, and | and covering them with glass or flower-
be strtick in a hot-bed iu full perfection | pots as they may want light or shade,

is becoming general. The more easy

of heat." — Ibid.

" The so(7," says Mr. Glenny and ! way is to use a paper-shade for any
other tirst-rate authorities, " cannot be particular fine bloom; for however the
too fresh ; and of all soils that which j flowers may be coaxed and nursed un-
produces good grass, as the top spade- [ der cover, a stand of blooms grown
full of a meadow, is the best. It should finely and merely shaded from the hot-
have a retentive yet well-drained sub- | test sun, will beat all others in bril-
soil, and be kept well supplied with i liancy, and in standing carriage, and
moisture, not only by watering, but i keeping. It is right to go round the

frequent hoeing

plants, and, wherever there is a pro-

" When the ground is poor, and has raising bud or bloom, to take away all

to be made more fertile, there is
addition equal to the soil formed by
rotten turfs cut tolerably thick, which
may be estimated at one-half loam and
half vegetable mould; but this should
be laid on in abundance, and will be
farhetterthan dung of any kind, .\niong
the results of planting the dahlia in soil
that is too rich, the principal one is that
of remarkably vigorous growth, with
little bloom, and that little bad."" — Ibid.
'• Holes in the situations where dah-
lias are to be planted,"' says Mr. Fin-

the leaves and shoots that threaten to
touch it as they grow ; take oft' also the
adjoining buds ; and if the vveather be
windy make it fast to a stick or one of
the stakes, that it may not be bruised
or frayed ; shade it from the broiling
sun ; and it will so profit by the air and
night-dews, as compared with the bloom
under pots and glasses, that if the
growth be equal, the blooming will be
superior. Nevertheless people will
cover; and where there is a disposition
to a hard eve, it will hardiv come out

tellmann, " are made fifteen inches in perfect unless it is covered. As the

diameter and fifteen inches in depth, end of September approaches, or as

and filled with this soil ; and in these soon as you have done with the bloom,

hol(^, so filled, the young plants are earth up the plants, that when the frost

turned out, or the old roots inserted.
To retain the moisture, and protect the
root from excessive heat, the surface is
covered with moss.

" Liquid manure is applied two or
three times in the course of the sum-
mer.'"— Gard. Mag.

comes it may not reach the crown." —
Gard. and Pract. Florist.

Preserving the Roots. — «' The plants
maybe raised without injury," says Dr.
Lindley, "immediately after the blooms
are cut off by the frost, provided that
thny are hung up in a dry and ordina-

After-culture. — This comprises chief- 1 rily protected situation, with the roots
ly staking, hoeing, protection, and | uppermost, if care is taken to leave six
slight pruning. j or seven inches of the stem attached to

"Dahlias should never be pruned each tuber; this maybe done without
until the bloom buds show, and then J the slightest fear of their withering
but few branches should be cut out, from liaving been lifted in a green state,
and only such as are growing across As the winter advances, and the tubers
others. The buds should be thinned, become matured and firm, the ordinary

D AH

192

DAM

modes of protection against frost may; summer and autumn, although the
be resorted to." — Card. Chron. I blooms will not be so fine upon plants

Protector. — The best devised shelter grown in pots as upon those in the open
from the sun for the Dahlia is drawn ; border. After flowering, cut the tops
and thus described in the Gard. Chron. oft", and place the pots containing the
. - . . roots in a dry cellar, or other place,

where they will be secure from frost

This protector is made of wicker-
work, and consists of an inverted shal-
low basket ; to which is attached a tube I during the winter. Young plants struck
made of the same material, through , from cuttings flower much better in
which the dahlia stick is passed ; and a j pots than the old roots." — Gard. Chron.

peg being inserted between the stick '
and the tube, it is firmly secured at any
height required. It measures twelve
inches in diameter, in the widest part,
and is three and a half in depth. From
its being made of so light a material,
and from its simplicity of construction.

Exhibiting Stand. — Dr. Lindley says,
" The dimensions of a Dahlia stand for
twelve blooms should be twenty-two
inches long by sixteen and a half wide,
four in depth, and five and a quarter
from tube to tube : sixteen and a half
bv eleven and a quarter will be the

it is not easily displaced or put out of j proportion for a stand of six. The sur-
order, and the flower not being confined face of stands is generally painted a
within anything, is less liable to be ' light green ; a colour which shows the
damaged by coming in contact with any ' flowers off to the greatest advantage."
substance that would injure the petals. — Gard. Chron.

It requires to be painted to preserve it; DAISY , (Bellis perennis.) There are
from decay, and if the outside be made many double varieties of this hardy pe-
green, and the inside white, the appear- rennial ; some white, others crimson,
ance of them would not be disagree- and many variegated. A more curious
able, and the insects lurking inside variety is the proliferous or Hen and

would be easily perceived.

Chicken Daisy. They all will flourish

Forcing. — " The Dahlia may be ad- in any moist soil, and almost in any
vantageously forced by potting the roots situation. They bloom from April to
in February, and letting them remain June. Propagated by slips, the smallest
in frames till June ; when they will be- fragment ol' root, almost, enables them
gin to flower, and may be turned out to grow. To keep them double and
into the open border." — Gard. Mag. fine, they require moving occasionally.

"To grow Dahlias in. pots," says Dr. Planted as an edging round the Ranun-
Lindley, " you must select the dwarfer cuius bed, their roots tempt the Wire-
and more freely flowering kinds, the ; worm from those of the choicer flower,
taller ones being totally unsuited for; DALBEPiGIA. Nineteen species,
that purpose. After they are started, Stove evergreen trees and climbers,
and when the shoots are about three or Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat,
four inches long, pot them singly into ! DALEA. Fifteen species, including
small sixties in any light rich soil ; wa- hardy, stove, and green-house annuals
ter them freely, and place them in a and perennials. The latter by cuttings,
hot-bed, keeping them close for a day and the annuals by seed, in a frame, to
or two, and shading them during sun- ; transplant to borders. Loam and peat,
shine. They will, ifproperlyattended to, i DALECHAMPIA. Three species,
be rooted in about ten days, and should Stove evergreen climbers. Cuttings,
then be removed to a much cooler place. Loam and peat.

and have plenty of air. When establish-
ed, shift them into larger pots, and final- herbaceous
ly, before placing them out of doors, soi
repot them, either into twelvesoreights,
according to the size of your plants.
" Top the leading shoots to make

D ALIBARDA violaoides. Half-hardy
Division. Common light

See

DAMASCENE or DAMSON.
Pluvi.

DAMASONIUM. Two species. Ten

them bushy; and when the danger of ' der aquatics. Division,
frost is over, they may be plunged in DAMMARA. Dammar pine tree,
the open border, which saves mucii la- Two species. Cuttings. Sandy loam,
bour in watering; but even then they DAMPIERA. Two species. Green-
must be watered copiously in dry wea- house herbaceous. Cuttings. Peat and
ther. They will flower freely all the , loam.

DAN

193

DEC

DAMPING OFF is a name applied
by gardeners to an ulceration of the
stems of seedlings, and other ten-
der plants. This ulceration arises
from the soil and air in which they are
vegetating being kept too moist or
damp. Flower seedlings are especially
liable to be thus affected; and, to pre-
vent this, one-third of the depth of the
pot should be filled with small pebbles,
and the soil employed, instead of being
sifted, allowed to retain all moderately
sized stones. The seeds should be
sown very thinly, pressed down, and a
little earth scattered over them. INIr.
Ayres has well suggested that a little
white sand be sprinkled over the sur-
face, because this is not easily disturbed
by watering, and is not a medium that
retains moisture to the neck of the
seedlings, where dampness most affects
them. He adds, that a pot of sand
should be kept hot upon a flue, and
whenever symptoms of the disease ap-
pear, a little, whilst hot, sprinkled on
the soil.

DAN/EA alata. Stove fern. Divi-
sion. Peat and loam.

D.\NCING-GIRLS. Mantisia sana-
toria.

DAPHNE. Twenty-four species.
Chiefly hardy or green-house evergreen
shrubs, except Z). //n?/oZ/(j, which is a
stove evergreen. Grafts on the Spurge
Laurel. {D. laureola.) Peat.

DARLINGTONIA. Two species.
Half-hardy herbaceous. Division or
cuttings. Peat and sand.

DATE-PALM. I'lurnix.

DATE-PLUM. Diospyros.

DATISCA. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Common soil.

DATURA. Nine species. Hardy
annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

DAUBENTONIA. Two species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy loam.

DAUBE.N'YA. Two species. Green-
house bulbs. Offsets. Sandy loam and
peat.

DAUCUS. See Carrot.

DAVALLIA. Seven species. Green-
house ferns. Division or seed. Peat
and loam.

DAY I ESI A. Eighteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam, peat, and sand.

DAY LILY. Ilemerorallis.

DECEMBER is a month in which the
gardener is preparing chietlv for future
13

events — storing his edible roots — pro-
tecting his tender plants, and wheeling
on stable manure to vacant ground.

The following work requires attend-
ing to :

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Artichokes, dress. — Asparagus beds,
dress, b. ; plant to force ; attend that
in forcing. — Carrots, dig up and store,
b. — Cauliflowers, in frame, &c., attend
to. — Composts, prepare and turn over.
— Dung, prepare for hot-beds. — Earth-
ing-up, attend to. — Hot-beds, attend to.
— Kidney Beans, force, e. — Leaves,
fallen, remove. — Lettuces, plant in hot-
beds ; attend to those advancing. —
Mint, force. — Mushroom-beds, make ;
attend those in production. — Parsnips,
dig up and store, b. — Radishes, sow, b.
— Small Salading, sow in frames, &c.
— Spinach, clear of weeds. — Tansy,
force. — Tarragon, force. — Trench,
drain, S:c., vacant ground.

ORCHARD.

Apples, prune ; plant. — Apricots,
prune; plant. — Cherries, pranc ; plant.
— Composts and fresh earth apply to
poor or old borders. — Currants, prune ;
plant. — Figs, plant; protect from frost.
— Fork over and dress the compart-
ments generally. — Gooseberries, prune ;
plant. — Mulch round the roots and
stems of trees newly planted, to e.\-
clu.de frost. — Nectarines, prune; plant.
— Pears, prune; plant.' — Peaches,
prune; plant. — Plant all kinds of trees
in mild weather. — P/«;ns, prune; plant.
— Pruning may be continued generally.
(See November.) — Raspberries, prune ;
plant. — Trench and manure ground for
planting. — Stake lirmly trees newly
planted. — Standards, prune generally.
— Suckets, clear away ; plant for stocks.
— Vines, prune ; but last month is to be
preferred for this operation, if the foli-
age had completely decayed.

FLOW'ER GARDEN.

Anemones, defend in bad weather;
plant if mild. — Auriculas, defend in in-
clement weather. — Bulbs omitted may
be planted if the weather be mild.
(See November.) — Carnations, defend
in inclement weathcr.^Co/npos/s, pre-
pare.— Dig over borders and dress all
quarters generally. — Edgings, plant. —
Fibrous-roofed Perennials and Biennials
divide and plant. — Flou-crs (choice),
defend generally from inclement wea-
ther. — Crass, roll occasionally, if

DEC

194

DEF

■winter be mild. — Gravel, roll and
keep orderly. — Hedges, plant and plash.
— Hyacinths, defend in inclement wea-
ther.— Leaves, collect for composts.
— Mulch round the roots and stems of
shrubs newly phinted. — Plant shruhs of
all kinds. — Potted Plants, protect in
deep frames, &c. ; place in hot-house
for forcing. — Prune all shrubs requiring
regulation. — Ranunculuses, defend in
bad weather; plant if mild. — Seedlings
of all kinds require protection. — Stake
shrubs newly planted, and any others
requiring support. — Suckers may be
planted as removed during the winter
dressing. — Tulips, defend in bad wea-
ther.— Turfs may be laid in open wea-
ther.— Water in glasses, change week-
ly; add a few grains of salt or five
drops of spirits of hartshorn.

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit freely as the season will
admit. — Bark-beds, keep in operation.
— Bulbs, in pots, introduce. — Cucum-
bers, sow in pots, and plunge in bark-
bed. — Flowering Plants, as Pinks, &c.,
introduce in pots. — Glasses must now
all be put in, for forcing commences in
earnest ; cover during severe frost. —
Kidney Beans (Dwarf), sown in boxes,
&c., introduce. — Peaches, day temp.
553 ; keep air moist. — Pines, water oc-
casionally; attend strictly to the bot-
tom heat. — Roses in pots, introduce. —
Strawberries in pots, introduce. — Tem-
perature, may decline 15^ or 20^ at
night; day temp, for flowering plants
GO*-". — Vines in pots may be introduced ;
or planted in Hot-house; stems out-
side bind round thickly with hay-bands,
&c. — Water is required in small quan-
tities; keep it in the house.

GREEN-HOUSE.

Air, admit as freely as possible ;
cause the best draught vou can. — Com-
post, prepare. — Earth of pots, stir when
crusted. — Foggy air e.xclude, for damp
renders cold injurious. — Glass, cover
with mats, &c., during severe frost. —
Leaves, clean ; remove decayed. — Peat
Soil, collect. — Temperature, sustain as
required by lightijig fires; day maxi-
mum, 45o ; night minimum, 35o. — Wa-
ter sparingly.

DPXEMBER MOTH. See Pcecil-
ocampa.

DECIDUOUS CYPRESS. Taxodium
distichum.

DECIDUOUS PLANTS are those
which shed all their leaves at one time
annually. In this country the fall of
the leaf is during the autumn. In the
East Indies it is during the hottest and
driest months.

DECODONS verticillatus. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Common soil.

DECUMARIA. Three species.
Hardy deciduous twiners. Layers and
cuttings. Common soil.

DEFORMITY. The leaves of plants
frequently assume an unnatural form on
account of their being wounded by in-
sects. Keith, in his Physiology of
Plants, thus enumerates some of the
most customary : —

" The leaves of the apricot, peach
and nectarine are extremely liable to
be thus affected in the months of June
and July. The leaf that has been punc-
tured soon begins to assume a rough
and wrinkled ligure, and a reddish and
scrofulous appearance, [)articular!y on
the upper surface ; the margins roll
inwards on the under side, and inclose
the eggs, which are scattered irregu-
larly on the surface, giving it a blackish
and granular appearance, but without
materially injuring its health.

" In the vine the substance deposited
on the leaf is whitish, giving the under
surface a sort of frosted appearance, but
not occasioning the red and scrofulous
aspect of the upper surface of the leaf
of the nectarine.

" In the poplar the eggs, when first
deposited, resemble a numbar of small
and hoary vesicles, containing a sort of
clear and colourless fluid. The leaf
then becomes reflected and condupli-
cate, inclosing the eggs, with a few
reddish protuberances on the upper sur-
face. The embryo is nourished by this
fluid, and the hoariness is converted
into a fine cottony down, which for
some time envelops the young fly.

" The leaf of the lime-tree, in par-
ticular, is liable to attacks from insects
when fully expanded ; and hence the
gnawed appearance it so often exhibits.
The injury seems to be occasioned by
some species of puceron depositing its
eggs in the parenchyma, generally
about the angles that branch ofl' from
the midrib. A sort of down is pro-
duced, at first green and afterwards
hoary, sometimes in patches, and some-
times pervading the whole leaf, as in
the case of the vine. Under this cover-

DEG

195

D ES

ing the egg is hatched; and then the j racy. A species never degenerates ; its

young insect gnaws and injures the I
leaf, leaving a hole or scar of a burnt or
singed appearance.

" Sometimes the upper surface of the
leaf is covered with clusters of wart-

seed may be hybridized ; but the seed-
lings are not degenerate — they are
varieties. But varieties do degenerate:
Brussels sprouts grown at Malines give
birth to seeds that yield seedlings quite

like substances. They seem to be oc- j degenerated ; but those seedlings, re-
casioned by means of a puncture made ! turned to the neighbourhood of Brussels,

on the under surface, in which a num
ber of openings are discoverable, pene-
trating into the warts, which are hollow
and villous within."

For these the only remedy is to re-
move the insects with the least possible
delay; and, if the injury is extensive,
adding water and liquid manure to the
roots rather more freely, to promote a
fresh and larger development of the
leaves.

Deformities of the stems of trees and
shrubs arise from another cause — from
the extension of the woody fibre being
greater and longer continued on one
side, it frequently becomes contorted.
Gardeners usually endeavour to remedy
this by making an incision on the inner
side of the curvature, and then employ-
ing force to restore it to a rectilinear
form, causing a gaping wound, and
mostly failing to attain the object. If
the incision be made on the outer side
of the curve, thus dividing the woody

yield, after two or three generations,
plants that arc true Brussels sprouts.

Many varieties of wheat, excellent
when cultivated in one locality, yield
seed that produces a different and in-
ferior sample in another locality, differ-
ing in soil and annual meteorological
phenomena.

DELIMA. Two species. Stove ever-
green climbers. Cuttings. Loam, peat,
and sand.

DELPHINIUM. Larkspur. Fifly-
three species, and many varieties. —
Hardy perennials and annuals. Divi-
sion or seed. Common soil.

DENDROBIUM. Fifty-seven species.
Stove epiphytes. Division. Turfy peat.

DEXDROMECON rigidum. Half-
hardy evergreen shrub. Seed. Com-
mon soil.

DENTARIA. Thirteen species.
Hardy tubers. Division or seed. Sandy
moist shaded soil.

DESIGN. " Consult the genius of

fibres that continue to elongate most the place" before you determine upon

rapidly, the branch or stem, with but
slight assistance, will recover its due
form, and there will be no open wound.
" From the fact that there is invari-
ably more woody matter deposited on
the side of a stem or branch which is
most exposed to the air and light, gar-
deners have explained to them why

your design, is sound advice ; for
gardening, as in all the line arts, nothing
is pleasing that is inappropriate. Mr.
Whateley, our best authority on such
subjects, truly says, —

" A plain simple field, unadorned
but with the common rural appendages,
is an agreeable opening ; but if it is

those sides of their trained trees which \ extremely small, neithera haystack, nor

are nearest the wall ripen, as they term
it, most slowly, and are benefitted by
being loosened from the wall so soon as
they are relieved from their fruit.

" If they require any demonstration
that this explanation is correct, they

a cottage, nor a stile, nor a path, nor
much less all of them together, will
give it an air of reality. A harbour, on
an artificial lake, is but a conceit ; it
raises no idea of refuge or security, for
the lake docs not suggest an idea of

need only examine the trees in clumps danger : it is detached from the large

and avenues: their external sides w
be found to enlarge much more rapidly
than their internal or most shaded
sides." — Principles of Gard.

DEGENERATE. A plant is said to
have degenerated, or to be not of true

body of water, and yet is in itself but a
poor inconsiderable basin, vainly affect-
ing to mimic the majesty of the sea.

" When imitative characters in gar-
dening are egregiously defective in any
material circumstance, the truth of the

stock, when it arises from seed without' others exposes and aggravates the fail-
the good characteristics of the parent, ure. But the art of gardening aspires
III cultivation may render a plant of [ to more than imitation ; it can create
altered stature, and its produce of defi- i original characters, and give expres-
cient flavour; but this is not degene- sions to the several scenes superior to

DES

196

DIB

any they can receive from illusions.
Certain properties, and certain disposi-
tions of the objects of nature, are adapt-
ed to excite particular ideas and sen-
sations. Many of them have been occa-
sionally mentioned, and all are very
well known : they require no discern-
ment, examination, or discussion, but

monument revives the memory of for-
mer times, we do not stop at the sim-
ple fact which it records, but recol-
lect many more coeval circumstances,
which we see, not perhaps as they
were, but as they have come down to
us — venerable with age, and magnified
by fame. Even without the assistance

are obvious at a glance, and instanta- of buildings, or other adventitious cir-
iieously distinguished by our feelings, cumstances, nature alone furnishes
Beauty alone is not so engaging as this j materials for scenes which may 'be
species of character; the impressions i adapted to almost every kind of ex-

it makes are more transient and less in
leresting ; for it aims only at delighting
the eye, but the other affects our sensi-
bility. An assemblage of the most ele-
gant forms, in the happiest situations,
is to a degree indiscriminate, if they
liave not been selected and arranged
with a design to produce certain ex-
pressions; an air of magnificence or of
simplicity, of cheerfulness, tranquillity,
or some other general character, ought
to pervade the whole ; and objects
pleasing in themselves, if they contra-
dict that character, should therefore be
excluded. Those which are only in-
difi^erent must sometimes make room
for such as are more significant — may
occasionally be recommended by it.
Barrenness itself may be an acceptable
circumstance in a spot dedicated to soli-
tude and melancholy.

" The power of such characters is
not confined to the ideas which the ob-
jects immediately suggest; for these
are connected with others which in-
sensibly lead to subjects far distant
perhaps from the original thought, and
related to it only by a similitude in the
sensations they excite. In a prospect
enriched and enlivened with inhabit-
ants and cultivation, the attention is
caught at first by the circumstances
which are gayest in their season — the
bloom of an orchard, the festivity of a
liay-field, and the carols of harvest-
liome; but the cheerfulness which these
infuse into the mind expands afterwards
to other objects than those immediately
presented to the eye ; and we are there-
by disposed to receive, and delighted
to pursue, a variety of pleasing ideas,
and every benevolent feeling. At the
sight of a ruin, reflections on the

pression ; their operation is general,
and their consequences infinite. The
mind is elevated, depressed, or com-
posed, as gaiety, gloom, or tranquillity
prevail in the scene; and we soon lose
sight of the means by which the cha-
racter is formed. We forget the par-
ticular objects it presents ; and giving
way to their eflfects without recurring
to the cause, we follow the track they
have begun to any extent which the
disposition they accord with will al-
low."— Whateley.

DESMANTHUS. Five species.—
Stove aquatics and evergreens. The
former by seeds in water ; the latter by
cuttings in peat and loam.

DESMOCHCETA. Eight species.—
Stove and green-house evergreens, and
herbaceous. Seeds, division or cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

DESMODIUM. Thirty-two species.
Chiefly stove evergreens, but a few
hardy and herbaceous. Cuttings. —
Sandy loam and peat.

DESMONCHUS. Four species.
Stove palms. Seed. Sandy peat.

DEUTZIA scabra. Hardy decidu-
ous shrub. Layers and cuttings. Com-
mon soil. D. corymbosa is a hardy
evergreen shrub, similarly propagated.

DEVONSHIRING. See Paring and
Burning.

DEWBERRY. Rubus casius.

DIANELLA. Nine species. Green-
house tubers. Division and seed. —
Loam and peat.

DIANTHUS. One hundred species,
and very many varieties. Chiefly
hardy herbaceous. Seed and pipings.
Rich light loam. See Carnation and
Pink.

DIAPENSIA lapponica. Hardy

change, the decay, and the ^flesolation i herbaceous. Division and seed. Peat,
before us naturally occur ; and they DIBBER, or DIBBLE. This instru-

introduce a long succession of others,
all tinctured with that melancholy
which these have inspired. Or, if the

ment for making holes in which to in-
sert seeds or plants, is usually very
simple in its construction, being at the

i

Die

197

DI G

best the head of an old spade-handle. | Stove fern. Seed and division. Sandy

To secure uniformity of depth in plant- i loam and leaf-mould,
ing beans, &c., by tliis instrument, it is | DIELYTRA. Nine species,
useful to have it perforated with lioles j herbaceous. Division or seed.
to receive an iron peg, at two and three light loam
inches from the point, as in the follow-
ing outline. Fig. 31. It should be

Hardy
Rich

Fig. 34.

shod with iron ; for if this be kept
bright it will make holes into which
the soil will not crumble from the sides.
The crumbling is induced by the soil's
adhesion to the dibble. For planting
potatoes, a dibble with a head three
inches diameter at the point, six inches
long up to the foot-rest, and with a
handle four feet long, is to be prefer-
red. For the insertion of seed a dib-
ble that delivers the seed has been in-
vented by a Mr. Smith.

DICERMA. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

DICHILUS lebeckioides. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. —
Sandy loam and peat.

DiCHORIZANDRA. Five species.
Stove herbaceous. Division or seed.
Common soil.

bifida. Green-house
Cuttings. Peat and

DICHOSMA
evergreen shrub,
sand.

DICKSONIA.

Seven species. Stove

DIERVILLA lutea.
ous shrub. Suckers.
DIETES. Three

Hardy decidu-
Common soil.

Half-

species.

ferns. Division and seed. Loam and
peat.

DICLIPTERA. Eleven species.—
Chietiy stove evergreen shrubs, but
two are annuals. The latter are raised
from seed ; the others from cuttings.
Light soil, with a little peat.

DICRYPTA. Four species. Stove
epiphytes. Offsets. Peat and pot-
Bherds.

DICTAMNUS. Three species.
Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Common
soil.

hardy herbaceous. Suckers or seed.
Light loam.

DIGGING is an operation performed
with the spade or Ibrk, having for its
object a loosening of the soil so as to
render it more fit for the reception of
seeds or plants. For its correct per-
formance Mawc and Abercrombie give
these directions: —

" Begin at one end of the piece of
ground, and with your spade open a
trench quite across, one good spade
wide and one deep, carrying the earth
to the end or place where you finish ;
then, keeping your face to the opening,
proceed to dig, one spade deep, regular-
ly from one side of the piece to the
other, turning the spits neatly into the
trench, and the next course against
these; and so keep digging straight
back, spit and spit, still preserving an
open trench, a good spade width and
depth, between the dug and undug
ground, that you may have full room to
give every spit a clean turn, taking all
the spits perpendicularly, and not taking
too much before the spade, especially
in stiff land, or where the surface is full
of weeds, or is much dunged; so giving
every spit a clean turn, the top to the
bottom and the bottom to the top, that
the weeds or dung on the surface may be
buried a due depth, and that the clean
fresh earth may be turned up.

"As you proceed break all large
clods, and preserve an even surface,
carrying both sides and middle on
equally, unless one side shall be hollow;
then carry on the hollow side lirst in a
kind of gradual sweep, inclining the
spits of earth rather that way, which
will gradually raise that side and reduce
the high one, observing the same if both
sides are high and the middle hollow,
or both sides hollow and the middle
high, always keeping the lower ground
advancing gradually before the higher;
by which you will always maintain a
uniform level, whether horizontal or
declining.

" The same should also be observed

DIDYMOCHL.ENA pulcherrima. — 1 in beginning to dig any piece of ground,

DIG

198

DIG

that if one corner is much lower than required to reduce ice or snow from the
another, carry on the lower part some- solid to the fluid state. A pound of
what first, in a kind of easy sweep or snow newly fallen requires an equal
slanting direction, as far as necessary, weight of water, heated to 172°, to melt
Likewise, in finishing any pieces of dig- it, and then the dissolved mixture is only
ging, gradually round upon the lower of the temperature of 32^. Ice requires
side so as to finish at the highest corner; the water to he a few degrees \^ armer,
and having digged to the end, or that to produce the same result. When ice
part of any piece of ground where you or snow is allowed to remain on the
intend to finish, then use tiie earth dig- surface, the quantity of heat necessary
ged out of the first trench to make good to reduce it to a fluid state is obtained
the last opening equal with the other chiefly from the atmosphere; but when
ground. In plain digging dunged buried so that the atmospheric heat can-
ground, if the dung is quite rotten, you not act directly upon it, the thawing
may dig clean through, giving each spit must be very slowly effected, by the
a clean turn to bury the dung in the | abstraction of heat from the soil by
bottom of the trench ; but if you cannot which the frozen mass is surrounded,
readily dg this, trim the dung a spade's I Instances have occurred of frozen soil
width at a time into the furrow or open not being completely thawed at mid-
trench, and so dig the ground upon it, summer; when so, the air, which fills
which is rather the most effectual tiie interstices of the soil, will be con-
method, whether rotten or long fresh ; tinually undergoing condensation as it
dung. comes in contact with the cold portions;

" In the course of digging all weeds i and, accordingly, the latter will be in a
that are perennial should be carefully ! very saturated condition even after they
picked out, particularly couch-grass and have become thawed. — Card. Chron.

bear-bind ; for the least bit of either
will grow. But annual weeds, ground-
sel, and the like, should be turned down
to the bottom of the trench, where they
v/ill rot.

" A man will dig by plain digging of
light free-working clean ground, eight,
ten, or twelve rods a day, from six to six,
though in some of the light clean ground
about London, I have known a man turn
up fifteen or twenty rods a day, from
five to seven ; on the other hand, in stiff
stubborn soils, a man may work hard
for six or eight rods in a day of twelve
hours; and that digging by trenches, or
trenching, if only one spade deep with-
out the crumbs or shovelling at bottom,
a man will dig almost as much as by
plain digging; or two spades' depth,
from four to six rods a day may be good
work, though in harsh working ground
digging three or four rods per day may
be hard work." Most garden soils dig
best the day after a fall of rain; and if
the soil has in its composition a larger
proportion than usual of clay, the opera-
tion will be faciliated by dipping occa-
sionally the spade into water. Most
gardeners object to digging while snow
18 upon the ground, and, as Dr. Lindley
justly observes, the objection is not
mere prejudice, for experience proves
the bad result of the practice. The evil
is owing to the great quantity of heat

Very few people ever consider in de-
tail the expenditure of labour required
from the gardener when digging. It is
a labour above all others calling into
exercise the muscles of the human
frame, and how great is the amount of
this exercise may be estimated from the
following facts: —

In digging a square perch of ground
in spits of the usual dimensions (seven
inches by eight inches) the spade has to
be thrust in 700 times; and as each
spadeful of earth, if the spade pene-
trates nine inches, as it ought to do,
will weigh on the average full seventeen
pounds, 11,900 pounds of earth have to
be lifted, and the customary pay for
doing this is two-pence half-penny. As
there are 100 perches or rods in an acre,
in digging the latter measure of ground
the garden labourer has to cut out 1 12,-
000 spadesful of earth, weighing in the
aggregate 17,000 cwt., or 8.50 tons,
and during the work he moves over a
distance of fourteen miles. As the
spade weighs between eight and nine
pounds, he has to lift, in fact, during the
work, half as much more weight than
that above specified, or 1,278 tons. An
able-bodied labourer can dig ten square
perches a day. A four-pronged fork,
with the prongs twelve inches long, and
the whole together forming a head eight
inches wide, is a more efficient tool for

DIG

199

DIS

digging than the common spade. It |
requires the exertion of less power;

DIOMEDEA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.

breaiis up the soil more efTectually; anil ' Rich light loam.

does not clog even when the soil is moist I DIOSCOREA. Yam. Five species.

wet. It is less costly than the spade, Stove tubers. Division. Light rich

and when worn can be relaid at a less

expense.

DIGITALIS. Twenty-six species.
Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Common
soil.

DILATRIS. Three species. Green-
house herbaceous. Division or seed.
Sandy peat.

DILL. {Anethum graveolens.)

Use. — Its leaves and umbels are used
in pickling, and the former in soups and house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat

soil.

DIOSMA. Twenty-three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Peat and sand.

DIOSPYROS. Twenty-three species.
Chiefly stove evergreen trees, but a few
are hardy. Cuttings. Light loam.

DIPHYLLEIAc]/77!OM. Hardy herb-
aceous. Division. Light rich soil.

DIPHACA cochinchi7iensis. Green-

sauces.

Soil and Situation. — It may be culti
vated in any open compartment; but if, evergreen shrub,
for seed, a sheltered situation, and a j loam and peat,
soil rather dry than damp, is to be allot-
ted for it.

Time of Sowing. — It is best sown im-
mediately that it is ripe, for if kept out

and Joani.

D I P H Y S A carthaginensis. Stove
Cuttings. Sandy

DIPLACUS. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Rich
sandy loam.

DIPLAZIUM. Nine species. Stove

of the ground until the spring it often is ferns. Division or seed. Loam and peat,
incapable of germinating. If neglected DIPLOCOMA villosa. Hardy herba-
until the spring, it may be sown from ; ceous. Seed and division. Common

the close of February until the com-
mencement of May, in drills a foot apart.

DIPLOL^.NA dampieri. Greea-

The plants are to remain where sown, house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.

as they will not bear removing. When
of tiiree or four weeks' growth they
must be thinned to about ten inches
apart; for if not allowed room they
spindle, their leaves decay, no lateral
branches are thrown out, and their seed
is not so good ; in every stage of growth
they require to be kept clear of weeds.
The leaves are fit for gathering as
wanted, and the umbels about July and
August. In Septembertheir seed ripens,
when it must be immediately cut, and
spread on a cloth to dry, as it is very
apt to scatter.

DILLENIA speciosa. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam.

D I L L VV Y N I A. Fifteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

DINEMA polybulbon. Stove epi-
phyte. Offsets. Peat and postsherds.

DINETUS paniculata and racemosa.
The first a stove perennial ; the second
a hardy annual twiner. The first by
cuttings; the seconds by seed. Rich
sandy soil.

DIODIA. Four species. Stove ever-
green trailers, except D. virginica,
which is hardy and deciduous,
tings. Light soil.

Loam and peat.

DIPLOPAPPUS incanus. Half-hardy
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy
loam.

DIPLOPELTIS hugelii. Green-house
herbaceous. Young cuttings. Common

DIPLOPHYLLUM veronica forme.
Hardy annual trailer. Seed. Conimoa
soil.

DIPLOTIIEMIUM. Two species.
Stove palms. Seed. Rich light loam.

DIPODWJM punctatum. Stove orchid.
Division. Sandy loam and peat.

DIPSACUS. Six species. Hardy
biennials. Seed. Common soil.

DIPTERIX odorata. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Rich loam.

DIRCA palustris. Hardy deciduous
shrub. Layers or seeds. Sandy loam.

DISA. Twelve species. Green-house
orchids. Division. Peat, loam, and
sand.

DISANDRA prostrata. Green-house
evergreen trailer. Division or cuttings.
Rich light soil.

DISBUDDING is the removal, soon

after they have burst into leaves, oi

Cut- such buds as, if allowed to grow into

shoots, would be misplaced. Thus,

DIS

200

DOU

Three species. Green-
Division. Peat, loam,

Two species. Half-

buds protruded directly in the front of, DISEMMA. Two species. Stove
branches trained against wails, or fore- evergreen climbers. Cuttings, Loam
right shoots, as they are correctly term- , and peat.
ed,and buds that would produce shoots] DISPERIS.
in places already sufficiently filled with house orchids,
branches, may be removed, or disbud- and sand,
ded. The object is to strengthen the DISPORUM.

desirably-placed buds by thus confining hardy herbaceous. Division and seed,
the expenditure of sap upon them. Peat and loam.

There is no better mode of aiding a j DISSOLENX verticillata. Green-
weakly plant to a more vigorous and house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich
robust growth than judicious disbud- light soil.

ding ; but an over-robust and super- ! DITTANY. Origanum dictamnus.
luxuriant tree had better be allowed to j DIURIS. Eight species. Green-
exhaust itself by a profuse development house orchids. Division. Peat, loam,
of leaf buds. and sand.

DISCHIDIA. Two species. Stove! DODECATHEON. Two species, and
evergreen trailers. Cuttings. Sandy , several varieties. Hardy herbaceous.
loam. ! Division. Light loam. See American

DISEASES. Dr. Good, the distin-| Cowslip.
guished medical writer, has remarked, ! DOG- WOOD. Cornus.
that the morbid affections to which the j DOLICHOS. Sixteen species. The
vegetable part of the creation is liable, ' two green-house twiners, D. jacquinii
are almost as numerous as those which; and Ugnosus, are the only two worth
render decrepid and destroy the animal cultivating. Cuttings. Rich sandy loam,
tribes. It would be difficult, perhaps, j DOLIOCARPUS caZiwca. Stove ever-
whatever system of nosology is follow- green climber. Cuttings. Turfy loam
ed, to place a finger upon a class of and peat.

animal physical diseases of which a pa- DOMBEYA. Six species. Stove
rallel example could not be pointed out [ evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy loam
among plants. The smut which ravages and peat.

our corn crops; the mildew which de- DONDIA epipactris. Hardy herba-
stroys our peas ; the curl that is annually ceous. Seed or division. Loam and
infecting more destructively our pota- j peat.

toes ; the ambury, or club-root, to which I DOODIA. Four species. Green-
cur turnips and other species of brassica house ferns. Division and seed. Loam
are liable; the shanking, or ulceration,! and peat.

which attacks the stalks of our grapes, t DOROXICUM. Nine species. Hardy
are only a few of the most commonly herbaceous. Division. Common soil,
observed diseases to which the plants ' DORTMANNA. Two species. Har-
we cultivate are liable. '. dy herbaceous. Division. Peat.

Disease is the negation of health ; DORYCNIUM. Eight species. Har-
and as the health of a plant is the cor- dy annual, herbaceous and evergreen,
rect performance of its functions, dis- Seed. Sandy loam,
ease may be defined to be an incorrect I DOUBLE FLOWERS. Hybridizing,
performance of the functions. Such i aided by cultivation, gives birth to these
incorrectness arises from four causes — [ objects of the gardener's care generally
vital energy declining from old age — 'designated double flowers, which are
parasites — improper food, either in qua- , such beauteous ornaments of our bor-
lity or quantity — and inauspicious tem- ders and parterres. To the uninitiated
perature. If these could be all avoided, it seems incredible that the double moss
a plant might enjoy a vigorous immor- rose should be a legitimate descendant
tality. Such, however, is not the lot of | from the briar; neither do the flowers
any organized being, and in proportion of the Fair Maid of France appear less
to the debilitating circumstances are , impossible derivatives from those of the
the nature, the intensity, and final con- i Ranunculus platanif alius ; nor bache-
sequences of the disease induced. The | lors' buttons from the common butter-
little known relative to the diseases cup; yet so they are. Double flowers,
which infest the gardeners' crops, will j as they are popularly called, are more
be found under their respective titles. ' correctly discriminated as the full flow-

DOU

201

DOU

er, the multiplicate flower, and the pro- i specified elsewhere, those parts re-
liferous flower. [quired for the extra elaboration, are

The lull flower is a flower with its developed at the expense of those not
petals augmented in number by the to- demanded for the purpose,
tal transformation into them of its sta- i The chief office of the petals is this
mens and its pistils. One-petalled preparation of nourishment for the sta-
flowers rarely undergo this metamor- , mens, and for the most part they fade
phosis, but it is very common in those together, usually enduring until im-
having many petals, as in the carnation, pregnation has been eff'ected, or has
ranunculus, rose, and poppy. But this altogether failed. In double flowers,
is not the only mode in which a flower too, as was observed by the late Sir J.
becomes full, for in the columbine (/IgMj- , E. Smith, the corolla is much more
legia) it is effected in three different durable than in single ones of the same
ways, viz., by the multiplication of pe- species, as anemones and poppies, be-
tals to the exclusion of the nectaries; ! cause as he conceived, in such double
by the multiplication of the nectaries flowers the natural function not being
to the exclusion of the petals; and by j performed, the vital principle of their

the multiplication of the nectaries,
whilst the usual petals remain.

Radiated flowers, such as the sun-
flower, dahlia, anthemis, and others,
become full by the multiplication of the
florets of their rays to the exclusion of
the florets of their disk. On the con-
trary, various species of the daisy, ma-
tricaria, &c., become full by the mul-
plication of the florets of the disk.

The multiplicate flower has its petals

corolla is not so soon exhausted. Ad-
vantage may be taken of this to prolong
the duration of flowers by cutting away
the pistils or stamens, whichever are
least conspicuous, with a sharp pair of
pointed scissors.

Although an abundant supply of nou-
rishment is absolutely necessary for the
production of double flowers, it is quite
as certain that such supply will not of
a certainty cause their appearance ;

increased by the conversion of a portion i there must be some tendency in the pa-
of its stamens, or of its calyx, in those 1 rent thus to sport, otherwise the super-

forms. It occurs most frequently in
polypetalous flowers. Linna;us gives
the only instances I know of the con-
version of the calyx into petals, and
these are to be observed in the pink

fluity of food will not have the desired
influence. That abundance of nourish-
ment is necessary, appears from the fact
that if the double daisy or the double
narcissus be grown in a poor soil, they

(Dianthus caryophyllus), and a few of ^ speedily produce none but single flow-

the Alpine grasses.

ers ; yet if they again be restored to a

A proliferous flower has another rich soil, they may with care be made to
flower or a shoot produced from it, as [ produce an unnatural profusion of petals.
in the variety of the daisy popularly Mr. D. Beaton's estimate of a double
known as the hen-and-chickens. It flower is original. He says that cultiva-
occurs also more rarely in the ranuncu- ' tion having enlarged all the parts of a
lus, pink, marigold, and hawkweed. A plant, the constitutional vigour thus ob-
jeafy shoot often appears in the bosom ' tamed is transferred to the next genera-
of the double-blossomed cherry, ane- tion, and to some of the seedlings, in a
mone, and rose. measureevengreaterthan that possessed

A due supply of moisture, but rather by the parent. Extraordinary supplies
less than the plant most delights in, ! of nourishment under favourable cir-
when the production of seed is the de- cumstanccs, invigorate still further the
sired object, a superabundant supply of ' improved race, and so on through many
decomposingorganic matter to its roots, generations. During this time cultiva-
and an exposure to the greatest possible ! tion produces the very opposite of dou-
degree of sun-light, are the means sue- ble flowers, and Mr. Beaton thinks it
cessfully employed to promote that ex- would continue to do so, if it were pos-
cessive development of the petals which sible to keep up every member of each
characterize double flowers. generation to the same degree of health

By these means a greater quantity of and vigour ; but accidents and diseases
sap is supplied to the flower than the : overtake some of the plants, and double
natural extent of the petal can elabo- I flowers are the produce from the decre-
rate ; and following the laws of nature pits. Cultivation, according to this idea.

DOU

202

DRI

is only indirectly the cause of double
flowers, and these a retrograde step
from a high state of development.

Whether my own opinion or Mr.
Beaton's be correct, it is quite certain
that in practice the plants from which
double-flowered varieties are sought,
must be kept in the highest state of de-
velopment by supplying them abundant-
ly with all the assistance to vigorous
growth; and when the seed vessels are
formed, they should be reduced in num-
ber in order to make the seed in those
remaining as large and perfect as pos-
sible. In the course of a few generations,
seedlings appear, having flowers with an
excess of petals, and seeds being ob-
tained from these, or from other flowers
impregnated by their stamens, and the
same high cultivation continued, the
excess of petals increases and becomes
a permanent habit.

DOUCIN STOCK. See Stock.

DOUGLASIA nivalis. Hardy herba-
ceous. Seed. Peat and sand.

DRABA. Forty-one species. Hardy
herbaceous chiefly, and a few annuals.
Seed. Loam and peat.

DRACCENA. Twenty-two species.
Stove evergreen trees and shrubs. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam.

DRACOCEPHALUM. Twenty spe-
cies. Chiefly hardy herbaceous. Divi-
sion or seed. Common soil.

DRACOPHYLLUM. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Sandy peat.

DRAGON'S-HEAD. Dracocephalum.

DRAGON TREE. Draccena draco.

DRAINING. There is scarcely a gar-
den existing that would not be benefited
by under-draining. Every gardener
knows the absolute necessity for a good
drainage under his wall-trees and vines,
but few gardeners ever think for a mo-
ment, whether there is any escape and
out-fall forthe water he has drained from
immediate contact with the roots of the
above-named favoured trees. Every
garden should' have drains cut, varying
in depth from two to three feet, accord-
ing to the depth of the soil, with an in-
terval of twenty-four feet between the
drains ; twelve feet will not be too near
in clayey soils. At the bottom of the
drains should be placed one-inch pipes;
these should be well puddled over, six
inches deep with clay, and then the
earth returned. They should have an
outfall into a ditch, at the least elevated

side of the garden. By having the
pipes with a bore no larger than an
inch, moles cannot creep in, and that
bore is large enough to carry off" all the
water, after even the heaviest rains.
Draining farm-lands has been performed
to a great extent in England, and with
most advantageous results: at Lord
Hatherton's residence, Teddesley Hay,
in Staff"ordshire, four hundred and sixty-
seven acres, formerly letting for an
average rental of ]2s. per acre, were
all drained for an outlay of 3/. 4s. Id.
per acre, and their rental now averages
more than 31s. per acre.

To plants in pots, good drainage isnot
less essential than to those in our borders.

DREPANOCARPUS lunatus. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich loam.

DRILLING. No crop in the garden
should be sown broadcast, for drilling
saves seed and labour; and although in
some cases it takes more time to insert
the seed in drills, yet this is more than
compensated by the time saved during
the after-culture, for the thinning and
hoeing are greatly facilitated.

The distance apart appropriate for
the drills for particular crops, will be
found under their respective titles ; they
are usually made with a hoe and line ;
but for mustard, cress, and other small
seeds, the drill-rake is often used. The
teeth are set six inches apart, and are
broad and coulter formed. When the
drills are required to be less than six
inches apart, the implement can be
worked diagonally.

DRILL BARROWS, or SEED SOW-
ERS. " Various have been the con-
trivances for sowing seeds, many having
the mere merit of ingenuity, without
practical utility ; because when used
with adhesive seeds, or those of rough
form, they clog, and, in consequence,
sow irregularly. Those now off^ered,
obviate all such objections, being suited
alike for Turnips, Beets, Onions, Car-
rots, Parsnips, &c. By the use of a
good Drill, the farmer or gardener can
save one-half of his seed, (that is, none
are needlessly sown,) and do the work
at much less expense, as well as with
greater rapidity than by the ordinary
mode of sowing ; as the Drill opens the
furrow, drops the seed, covers and rolls
it down." — Rural Register.

A very simple and low-priced Tyrill
is formed by a tin tube, or hollow cane,
surmounted by a funnel-like mouth-

DR I

203

DUN

piece, to receive the seeds. The ope- i seeds into the funnel at the required
rater holds it in his left hand, directing | rapidity — a little practice enables the
the lower extremity to the line where \ sower to pass over the ground with
he desires the seed to fail, and with the 1 speed, and perform the work with re-
fingers of his right hand dropping the | gularity.

Fig. 35.

DRIMIA. Thirteen species. Green-
house bulbs. Offsets. Sandy loam and
peat.

DROSER.\. Nine species. Hardy
and green-house aquatics. Seeds. Peat
and water.

DRUMMONDIA mitelloides. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Peat.

DRYANDRA. Nineteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Turfy sandy loam and peat.

DRYAS. Four species. Hardy ever-
green trees. Seed and cuttings. Peat
and loam.

DRYMONIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Rich
sandy loam.

D R Y P E T E S CTOcea. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

DUYPIS spinosa. Hardy evergreen
shrub. Cuttings and seed. Sandy peat
and loam.

DRY-STOVE is a hot-house devoted
to the culture of such plants as require
a high degree of heat, but a drier at-
mosphere than the tenants of the bark-
stove. Consequently, fermenting mate-
rials and open tanks of hot-water are
inadmissible; but the sources of heat
are either steam or hot-water pipes, or
flues. Sec Stove.

DUM.\SIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen twiners. Cuttings.
Peat and sandy loam.

DU.MB-CANE Caladium sequinum.

DUMERILIA paniculata. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Common
soil.

DUNG. Under this title our atten-
tion must be confined to the fijeces and
urines of animals, and that one most
common compound, stable dung.

Night-soil is the richest of the ma-
nures to be arranged under this head.
It is composed of human fceces and
urine, of which the constituents are aa
follows : —

F^CES.

Water 73.3

Vegetable and animal remains 7

Bile 0.9

Albumen 0.9

Peculiar and extractive matter 1.2
Salts (carbonate of soda,~
common salt, sulphate of I
soda, ammonia-phosphate > 2.7
of magnesia, and phos-
phate of lime)
Insoluble residue ... 7 14.0

URINE.

Urate of ammonia . . . 0.298

Sal-ammoniac . • . . 0.459

Sulphate of potash . . . 2.112

Chloride of potassium . . 3.674

sodium (com-) ,:■ ncn

mon salt) t

Phosphate of soda . . . 4.267

lime . . . 0.209

Acetate of soda .... 2.770
Urea and colouring matter 23.640
Water and lactic acid . . 47.511

After stating the above analyses in
his excellent work, ''On Fertilizers,"
Mr. Cuthbert Johnson proceeds to ob-
serve that, " The very chemical compo-

DUN

204

DUN

sition, therefore, of this compost would
indicate the powerful fertilizing effects
which it is proved to produce. The
mass of easily soluble and decomposa-
ble animal matters and salts of ammo-
nia with which it abounds, its phosphate
of lime, its carbonate of soda, are all,
by themselves, excellent fertilizers, and
must afford a copious supply of food to
plants.

" The disagreeable smell may be de-
stroyed by mixing it with quicklime; and
if exposed to the atmosphere in thin lay-
ers in fine weather, and mixed with
quicklime, it speedily dries, is easily
pulverized, and in this state may be used
in the same manner as rape cake, and

men salt, phosphate of lime, and sul
phate of soda.

cow URINE.

Water 66

Phosphate of lime . . .
Chloride of potassium, and

sal-ammoniac . .
Sulphate of potash .
Carbonate of potash .
ammonia

Urea

:}

" One thousand parts of dry wheat

straw being burnt, yielded M. Saussure

forty-eight parts of ashes ; the same

quantity of the dry straw of barley

derivered""int7"the fJrrow" with' "the ! yielded forty-two parts of ashes. The

gggj ,, j portion dissipated by the fire would be

From the experiments of M.Schubler!P'''"'=]P»l'y '=^'•^0". (charcoal,) carbu-

and others, the relative value of night- ! !''^"*^.'i hydrogen, gas, and water; one

soil is as follows: —

" If a given quantity of the land sown
without manure yields three times the
seed employed, then the same quantity
of land will produce five times the
quantity sown when manured with old
herbage, putrid grass or leaves, garden
stuff, &c. ; seven times with cow-dung ;
nine times with pigeon's dung; ten
times with horse-dung; twelve times
with human urine ; twelve times with
goat's dung ; twelve times with sheep's
dung ; and fourteen times with human
manure, or bullock's blood. But if the
land be of such quality as to produce
without manure five times the sown
quantity, then the horse-dung manure
will yield fourteen, and human manure
nineteen and two-thirds the sown quan-
tity."— Johnson^s Fertilizers.

Fowl Durag-, if composed partly of that
of the duck, which is a gross feeder, is
nearly equal to guano. This, and that
of the pigeon contain much ammonia,
and all abound in phosphate of lime,
mixed with decomposing organic mat-
ters and uric acid, all highly valuable
as fertilizers.

Stable or Farm-yard Dung is usually
composed of the following matters: —

HORSE URINE.

Water and mucus .... 9.4
Carbonate of lime .... 1.1
soda .... 0.9

Hippurate of soda .... 2.4
Chloride of potassium . . . 0.9

Urea 0.7

But besides the above, it contains com- 1 — Journ. Roy. Agr. Soc, Vol. I. p

princi-)

id sul-S- 221

hundred parts of these ashes are com-
posed of —

Various soluble salts, princi-
pally carbonate and
phate of potash
Phosphate of lime (earthy)

salt of bones) .... J "^
Chalk (carbonate of lime) . . 1

Silica (flint) 61i

Metallic oxide (principally) -

iron) J ,

Loss .' 7l

" The straw of barley contains the
same ingredients, only in rather differ-
ent proportions.

" The solid excrements of a horse
fed on hay, oats, and straw, contain,
according to the analysis of M. Zierl,
in 1000 parts : —

Water 698

Picromel and salts .... 20
Bilious and extractive mat-) ,~

ter . . . .
Green matter,

mucus, &c. .
Vegetable fibre,

mains of food

albumen,)
and re-j

63
202

" These, when burnt, yielded to the
same chemist sixty parts by weight of
ashes, which were composed of —

and) c

Carbonate, sulphate,

muriate of soda . . . ^

Carbonate and phosphate) ^
oflirae J

Silica 46"

4S9.

DUN

205

DUN

Mr. Cutlibert Jolinson, after giving
these analyses in his work already
quoted, observes further, that, " the
fa;ces of cattle fed principally on tur-
nips have been analysed by M. Einhof;
100 parts evaporated to dryness yielded
28.^ parts of solid matter; the 7U parts
lost in drying would consist principally
of water and some ammoniacal salts.
In half a pound, or 3,840 grains, he
tbund 45 grains of sand ; and by diffu-
sing it through water, he obtained
about 600 grains of a yellow fibrous
matter, resembling that of plants,
mixed with a very considerable quan-
tity of slimy matter. By evaporating
faeces to dryness, and then burning
them, he obtained an ash, which con-
tained, besides the sand, the following
substances : —

Lime 12.

Phosphate of lime .... 12.5

Magnesia 2.

Iron 5.

Alumina, with some manga-) . .

nese J

Silica 52.

Muriate and sulphate of) . „

potash 5

" The ingredients of which the urine
and fa;ces of cattle are composed, will
of course differ slightly in different
animals of the same kind, and accord-
ing to the different food upon which
they are fed ; but this difference will
not in any case be found very material.

" The excrements of the sheep have
been examined by Block ; according
to him, every 100 lbs. of rye-straw
given as fodder to sheep yield 40 lbs.
of excrements (fluid and solid) ; from
100 lbs. of hay, 42 lbs.; from 100 lbs.
of potatoes, 13 11)s. ; from 100 lbs. of
green clover, 8^ lbs.; and from 100 lbs.
of oats, 49 lbs. of dry excrement. The
solid excrements of sheep fed on hay,
were examined by Zierl ; 1,000 parts
by weight being burned, yielded 96
parts of ashes, which were found to
consist of —

Carbonate, sulphate, and) ,p
muriate of soda . . . j

Carbonate and phosphate of) -^

lime J '^^

Silica 60

" One hundred parts of the urine of
sheep kept at grass, contained —

Water 96.

Urea, albumen, &c. . . . 2.8
Salt of potash, soda, lime,)
and magnesia, &c. . . J
— Journ. Roy. Agr. Soc.

1.2"

There have been many arguments
and much difference of opinion among
cultivators with regard to the advan-
tage of employing dung in a fresh or
in a putrid state, and as is too often the
case, both parties have run into ex-
tremes, the one side contending for
the propriety of employing it quite
fresh from the farm-yard, the other
contending that it cannot well be too
rotten.

The mode employed by Lord Leices-
ter, is the medium between these equal-
ly erroneous extremes. He found that
the employment of the fresh dung cer-
tainly made the dung go much farther ;
but then a multitude of the seeds of
various weeds were carried on to the
land along with the manure. He has
therefore since used liis compost when
only in a half putrefied state, (called
short dung by farmers,) and hence the
seeds are destroyed by the eftects of
the putrefaction, and the dung still ex-
tends much farther than if suffered to
remain until quite putrefied. Putrefac-
tion cannot go on without the presence
of moisture. Where water is entirely
absent, there can be no putrefaction ;
and hence many farmers have adopted
the practice of pumping the drainage of
their farm-yards over their dung heaps ;
others invariably place them in a low
damp situation. This liquid portion
cannot be too highly valued by the
cultivator. The soil where a dunghill
has lain in a field is always distin-
guished by a rank luxuriance in the
succeeding crop, even if the earth be-
neath, to the depth of six inches, is
removed and spread with the dunghill.

The controversy, too, which once so
keenly existed, as to the slate of fer-
mentation in which dung should be
used on the land, has now pretty well
subsided. There is no doubt but that
it cannot be applied more advan-
tageously tlian in as fresh a state as
possible, consistent with the attain-
ment of a tolerably clean husbandry,
and the destruction of the seeds of
weeds, grubs, &c., which are always
more or less present in farm-yard dung.
These are the only evils to be appre-

DUN

206

DUN

hended from the desirable employment
of this manure in the freshest state ;
for otherwise the loss of its most valu-
able constituents commences as soon as
fermentation begins. This was long
since demonstrated by Davy, whose
experiments I have often seen repeated
and varied. He says, " I filled a large
retort capable of containing three pints
of water with some hot fermenting
manure, consisting principally of the
litter and dung of cattle. I adapted a
small receiver to the retort, and con-
nected the whole with a mercurial
pneumatic apparatus, so as to collect
the condensible and elastic fluids which
might arise from the dung. The re-
ceiver soon became lined with dew,
and drops began in a few hours to
trickle down the sides of it. Elastic
fluid likewise was generated ; in three
days thirty-five cubical inches h&d been
formed, which when analyzed were
found to contain twenty-one cubical
inches of carbonic acid ; the remainder
was hydro-carburet, mixed with some
azote, probably no more than existed
in the common air in the receiver.
The fluid matter collected in the re-
ceiver at the same time amounted to
nearly half an ounce. It had a saline
taste and a disagreeable smell, and con-
tained some acetate and carbonate of
ammonia. Finding such products given
off from fermenting litter, I introduced
the beak of another retort filled with
similar dung very hot at the time, in the
soil amongst the roots of some grass in
the border of a garden. In less than a
week a very discernible effect was pro-
duced on the grass, upon the spot ex-
posed to the influence of the matter
disengaged in fermentation ; it grew
M'ith much more luxuriance than the
grass in any other part of the gar-
den."— Lectures.

Nothing, indeed, appears at first sight
so simple as the manufacture and col-
lection of farm yard dung, and yet there
are endless sources of error into which
the cultivator is sure to fall, if he is not
ever vigilant in their management. The
late Mr. Francis Blake, in his valuable
tract upon the management of farm-
yard manure, dwells upon several of
these; he particularly condemns the
practice of keeping the dung arising
from different descriptions of animals
in separate heaps or departments, and
applying them to the land without inter-

mixture. " It is customary," he adds,
" to keep the fattening neat cattle in
yards by themselves, and the manure
thus produced is of good quality, be-
cause the excrement of such cattle is
richer than that of lean ones. Fattening
cattle are fed with oil cake, corn,
Swedish turnips, or some other food,
and the refuse and waste of such food
thrown about the yard increases the
value; it also attracts the pigs to the
yard. These rout the straw and dung
about in search of grains of corn, bits of
Swedish turnips, and other food ; by
which means the manure in the yard
becomes more intimately mixed, and is
proportionally increased in value. The
feeding troughs and cribs in the yard
should for obvious reasons be shifted
frequently.

" The horse-dung," continues Blake,
" is usually thrown out at the stable
doors, and there accumulates in large
heaps. It is sometimes spread a little
about, but more generally not at all,
unless where necessary for the conve-
nience of ingress and egress, or perhaps
to allow the water to drain away from
the stable door. Horse-dung lying in
heaps very soon ferments and heats to
an excess, the centre of the heap is
charred or burned to a dry white sub-
stance, provincially termed fire-fanged.
Dung in this state loses from fifty to
seventy-five per cent, of its value. The
diligent and attentive farmer will guard
against such profligate waste of property
by never allowing the dung to accumu-
late in any considerable quantity at the
stable doors. The dung from the feed-
ing hog-sties should also be carted and
spread about the store cattle yard in
the same manner as the horse-dung.

" The heat produced by the ferment-
ation of the dung of different animals
has been made the subject of repeated
experiment. When the temperature of
the air was 40^, that of common farm-
yard dung was 70^; a mixture of lime,
dung, and earth, 55=> ; swine and fowl's
dung, 85°." — Farmer's Magazine,
Johnson^s Fertilizers.

" The quality of farm-yard compost
naturally varies with the food of the
animals by which it is made : that from
the cattle of the straw-yard is decidedly
the poorest, that from those fed on oil-
cake, corn, or Swedes, the richest. Of
stable dung, that from corn-fed horses
is most powerful, from those subsisting

DUR

207

ECU

w

on straw anil hay the poorest; the j ous proportions : — Silica, or pure flint ;

difference between the fertilizing effects
of the richest and the inferior farm-yard
dung is much greater tlian is commonly
believed ; in* many instances the dis-

Alumina, or pure clay; Lime, combined
with carbonic acid in the state of chalk ;
and Magnesia. See Soil.

EARTHING-UP, or drawing the soil

parity exceeds one-half; thus that pro- I in a ridge to the stems of plants, 13
duced by cattle fed upon oil-cake is beneficial to fibrous-rooted plants, by
fully equal in value to double the ! reducing the distance from the surface
quantity fed upon turnips. Hence the j of the extremities of the plant's roots ;
superior richness of the manure of j by inducing the production of rootlets
fattening swine to that of pigs in a lean ! from the stem ; and sheltering the
state, and the far superior strength of j winter standing crops, for the closer
night-soil to any manure produced from \ the foliage of these are to the earth the
merely vegetable food. Chemical ex- | less is the reduction of heat from the
aminations are hardly necessary to j latter, either by radiation or contact
prove these facts. Every farmer who with the colder air.

has had stall-fed cattle will testify to
their truth; every cultivator will readily
acknowledge the superiority of ' town-
made,' that is, corn-produced stable
dung, to that from horses fed only on

But to tuberous-rooted plants, as the
potato, it is detrimental. In my experi-
ments it reduced the produce one-
fourth. Many farmers who cultivate
the potato extensively, do so with the

"""B5 ■■■' "■•■•■ >■"•■' ..v,.»^o .V,V. ^...J „ -^ , _, -- --

hay and straw, and that night-soil is far ; horse-hoe alone, no longer using the
superior in strength to either. The j plough to earth-up, as was formerly the
relative (juantities employed by the ; universal practice, and is now with
cultivator betray the same fact, for on those who never profit by experience,
the soils where'he applies twenty loads , EARWIG. Forficula auricularis.
of good farm-yard compost per acre, he This destroyer of the peach, apricot,
■'""■'■ <- • 1 . piurn, dahlia, pink and carnation, com-

mits its ravages only at night, retiring
durinjr the day to any convenient

spreads not half that quantity of night-
soil. The drainage from all manures

should be scrupulously preserved, for ^ — _.._, .- .-..j

the liquid or soluble portion constitutes ' shelter in the vicinity of its prey. Ad-
their richest portion. The escape of, vantage must be taken of this habit,

their gaseous products during decom
position should also be checked as
much as possible, for they contain
ammonia, carbonic acid, &c., all
abounding in constituents valuable as
.fertilizers." — Johnson^s Farmer's En-
cyclop

and if small garden pots with a little
moss within be inverted upon a stick,
and pieces of the dry hollow stem of
the sunflower, or Jerusalem artichoke,
be placed in the neighbourhood of the
fruits and flowers enumerated, many of
the insects will resort thither, and may

DUR.\NTA. Seven species. Stove be shaken out and destroyed. As ear-

evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

DUVALIA. Twelve species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and lime rubbish.

DUVAUA. Four species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Common soil.

DWARF FAN-PALM. Chamarops
humilis.

DWARF MOLY. Allium chama-
moly.

DWARF STANDARD is a fruit tree
on a very short stem, with its branches
unshortened and untrained.

DYCKIA ranjlora. Green-house
herbaceous. Suckers. Sandy peat and
loam.

EARTHS. Every cultivated soil is
mainly composed of four earths in vari-

wigs are winged insects, it is useless to
guard the stems of plants in any mode.

EBENUS. Two species. Green-
house evergreens. Seed. Peat and
loam.

ECASTAPHYLLUM. Three species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Rich
loam.

ECCREMOCARPUS longiflora.
Green-house evergreen climber. Cut-
tings. Sand, loam, and peat.

E C H E V E R I A . Seven species.
Green-house and stove succulents. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

ECHINACEA. Six species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Light rich loam.

ECHINOCACTUS. Sixty-one
species. Stove evergreen. Offsets.
Sandy peat, and a little calcareous rub-
bish.

ECH

208

END

ECHINOPS. Sixteen species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Common soil.

ECHITES. Twenty-one species.
Chiefly stove evergreen twiners. Cut-
ings. Loam and peat.

ECHIUM. Fifty-eight species.
Hardy and green-house shrubs and an-
nuals. Layers and cuttings, or seeds.
Loam and peat.

EDGING. This for the kitchen-garden
and all other places where neatness, not

ELiEODENDRON. Five species.
Green-house and stove evergreen
slirubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

ELAPHRIUM glabrum. ^ Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

ELATE sylvestris. A stove palm.
Suckers. Rich loam.

ELATER. See Wire- worm.

ELDER {Sambucus). Common black
elder (S. nigra), of which there are
several varieties, viz., black-berried,

ELEVATION. See Altitude.
ELICHRYSUM. Forty-five species.

ornament, is the object, may consist of) white-berried, green-berried, parsley-
useful herbs, the strawberry &c. As an • leaved, gold-striped, silver-striped, and
ornamental edging nothing can compare silver-dusted,
with the dwarf Box, especially in light
soils. On heavy low lands it suffers

during winter and may, perhaps, be i Chiefly green-house evergreen shrubs
totally destroyed; in such situations i and deciduous perennials. Cuttings,
grass may be used, though it is trouble- Peat and sandy loam.

ELLIOTTIA racemnsa. Half-hardy

evergreen shrub. Layers. Sandy loam

and peat.

some to keep in order.
Fig. 36.

EDGING KNIFE. This tool , fitted
to a straight handle, is used for paring
the edges of grass bordering walks,
&c., and cutting the outlines of sods,
which may be then readily raised by
the spade. — Rural Reg.

EDWARDSIA. Six species. Half-
hardy shurbs. Cuttings. Sandy peat.

EGG-BEARER. Solanum origenum.

EGG-SHELLS. See Animal Matters.

EGLANTINE. See Sweet Briar.

EGYPTIAN LOTUS. Nymphcea
lotus.

EGYPTIAN THORN. Acacia vera.

EHRETIA. Eleven species. Stove
evergreen shrubs and trees. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

EKEBERGIA capensis. Green-
house evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

EL^AGNUS. Seven species. Hardy
or green-house trees and shrubs, except
E. latifolia, which is a stove shrub.
Layers or cuttings. Light soil.

ELAIS. Four species. Stove palms.
Suckers. Rich sandy loam.

EL^.OCARPUS. Five species.
Stove or green-house trees or shrubs.
Cuttings. Loam and peat.

ELLRBOCARPUS oleraceus. Stove
fern. Division. Loam.

ELISENA longipetala. Stove bulb.
Offsets. Sandy loam and leaf-mould.

ELM (Ulmus).

ICLM BEETLE. See Scolytus.

EMBLICA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and
sand.

EMBOTHRIUM stroUlinum. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Sandy peat.

ENCP.LIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam.

ENDIVE {Cichorium endivia).

Varieties. — The green-curled, the
only one cultivated for the main crops,
as it best endures wet and cold ; the
white-curled, chiefly grown for summer
and autumn ; the broad-leaved, or Bata-
vian, is preferred for soups and stews,
but is seldom used for salads.

Soil and situation. — Endive delights
in a light, dry, but rich soil, dug deep,
as well for the free admission of its tap-
root as to serve as a drain for any super-
abundant moisture. This should be
especially attended to for the winter
standing crops, for which, likewise, if
the soil or substratum is retentive, it is
best to form an artificial bed by laying
a foot in depth of mould on a bed of
brickbats, stones, &c., as excessive
moisture, in conjunction with excessive
cold, is in general fatal to this plant.
The situation should be open, and free
from the influence of trees.

END

209

END

Time and mode of sowing. — For a
first crop about the middle of April, to
be repeated in May, but only in small
portions, as those which are raised be-
fore June, soon advance to seed. To-
wards the middle of this month the first
main crop may be inserted ; to be con-
tinued in the course of July, and lastly
early in August ; and in tiiis month the
main plantation is made. The seed
is sown then in drills twelve inches

frames, mats, or thick coverings of lit-
ter, during severe and very wet wea-
ther ; but to be carefully uncovered
during mild dry days. The plants, in
this instance, are not required to be
further apart than six or eight inches.
This plan may be followed in open days
during December and January, by which
means a constant supply may be ob-
tained. Instead of being planted in the
above manner on a terrace, it is some-

apart, and about half an inch below the , times practised to take the plants on a
surface. The plants speedily make dry day, and, the leaves being tied to-
their appearance. When an inch in 1 gether, to lay them horizontally in the
height ihey should be thinned to three | earth down to the tip of the leaves;

or four inches apart : those taken away
are too small to be of any service if
pricked out. The bed must be kept
clear of weeds from the first appearance
of the plants until they are removed.
To promote their arrival at a fit size for
performing this operation, water should
be given occasionally in dry weather.

When the larger seedlings have been
transplanted, the smaller ones which
remain may be cleared of weeds and
have a gentle watering ; by which treat-
ment, in twelve or fourteen days, they
will have attained a sufficient size to
afford a second successional crop; and,
by a repetition of this management, in
general a third. The plants are gene-
rally fit for transplanting when of a
month's growth in the seed-bed ; but
a more certain criterion is, that when
of five or six inches' height they are of
the most favourable size.

Plantinjr. — They must be set in rows
twelve or fifteen inches apart each way :
the Batavian requires the greatest space.
Some gardeners recommend them to be
set in trenches or drills three or four
inches deep. This mode is not detri-
mental in summer and dry weather;
but in winter, when every precaution
is to be adopted for the prevention of
decay, it is always injurious.

Water must be given moderately

this accelerates the blanching, but
otherwise is far more subject to failure.

As the number necessary for a family
is but small, but few should be planted
at a time.

Blanching. — About three months
elapse between the time of sowing and
the fitness of the plants for blanching.
This operation, if conducted properly,
will be completed in from ten to four-
teen days in summer, or in three or
four weeks in winter. To blanch the
plants it is the most common practice
to tie their leaves together, to place
tiles or pieces of board upon them, or
to cover them with garden-pots; whilst
some recommend their leaves to be tied
together, and then to be covered up to
their tips with mould, making it rise to
an apex, so as to throw off excessive
rains. All these methods succeed iu
dry seasons ; but in wet ones the plants,
treated according to any of them, are
liable to decay.

The one which succeeds best in all
seasons is to fold the leaves round the
heart as much as possible in their natu-
ral position; and being tied together
with a shred of bass-mat, covered up
entirely with coal-ashes in the form of
a cone, the surface being rendered firm
and smooth with the trowel. Sand will
do, but ashes are equally unretentive

.. „„ ^ — ^ ^^.j I"-) "■•- "-••--- — -^1 J ^-^ — •■

every evening uutil the plants are esta- j of moisture, whilst they are much supe

blished, after which it is not at all re-
quisite, except in excessive and pro-
tracted drought. Those which arc left
in the seed-bed, if the soil is at all fa-
vourable, in general attain a finer
growth than those that have been

rior in absorbing heat, which is so be-
neficial in the hastening of the process.
If the simple mode of drawing the
leaves together is adopted to effect this
etiolation, they must be tied very close,
and, in a week after the first tying, a

moved. In November some plants that second ligature must be passed round
have attained nearly their full size may the middle of the plant to prevent the
be removed to the south side of a slop- heart-leaves bursting out. A dry after-
ing bank of dry light earth, raised one noon, when the plants are entirely free
or two feet behind : to be protected by i from moisture, should be selected,
14

ENG

210

ENG

whichever mode is adopted for this
concluding operation.

A very excellent mode is to spread
over the surface of the bed about an
inch in depth of pit-sand, and covering
each plant with a small pot made of
earthenware, painted both within and
on the outside to exclude the wet — that
worst hindrance of blanching. To avoid
this, the pots should be taken off daily
for a quarter of an hour, and their in-
sides wiped dry. A common garden-pot
will do if the hole be closely stopped;
but a sea-kale pot in miniature, is to
be preferred ; and if made of zinc or
other metal, it would be better, because
not porous and admissive of moisture. —
Juhnson''s Gard. Almanack.

To obtain Seed. — The finest and
soundest plants should be selected of
the lastplantation, and which most agree
with the characteristics of the respect-
ive varieties. For a small family three
or four plants of each variety will pro-
duce sufficient. These should be taken
in March, and planted beneath a south
fence, about a foot from it and eighteen
inches apart. As the flower-stem ad-
vances it should be fastened to a stake;
or, if they are placed beneath palings,

by a string, to be gathered
Fi'T. 37. as the seed upon it ripens r

for if none are gathered

T until the whole plant is
changing colour, the first
jg, ripened and best seed will
have scattered and be lost,
so wide is the difference
of time between the seve-
ral branches of the same
plant ripening their seed.
Each branch must be laid,
as it is cut, upon a cloth in
the sun ; and when per-
fectly dry, the seed beaten
out, cleansed, and stored.

ENGINE. This name is
applied to many contriv-
ances for supplying water
to platUs.

1. The pump-syringe, or
syringe-engine, (Fig. 37),
can be supplied with water
from a common bucket,
from which it sucks the
water tiirough a perforat-
ed base. The handle is
sometimes made to work
like that of the common
pump.

2. The barrow watering-engine (Fig.
38) is represented in the figure below.
It will throw the jet of water to a dis-
tance of forty or fifty feet, or somewhat
less if a rose is upon the end of the de-
livery-pipe. It holds from twenty to
thirty gallons of water; but may be
made, with a leather-hose attached, to
communicate with a pond or other
reservoir of water.

Fig. 38.

3. The curved barrel-engine (Fig. 39)
is excellent; for the barrel, piston-rods,
&c., being so constructed as to be turned
on a lathe, they are so accurate that
there is the least possible loss of power,
either from unnecessary friction or from
an imperfect vacuum.

Fig. 39.

Another garden engine of still greater
power, is illustrated by the annexed
drawing (Fig. 40) ; it is somewhat more
costly than those in general use, but
may be used for a variety of purposes,
and in some cases might be used to

i

ENK

211

ENT

Fig. 40.

protect property from fire. They are
of various patterns and power. Some of
them, worked by a single arm, cast the
water fifty to sixty feet high. |

E N K i A N T H U S. Two species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

ENTADA. Five species. Stove ever-
green climbers. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

ENTELEA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam and sandy peat.

ENTRANCES. Upon these parts of
a residence, which should give a first
and appropriate impression, Mr. VVhate-
ley has these just remarks :

"The road which leads up to the
door of the mansion may go off from it
in an equal angle, so that tiie two sides
shall exactly correspond ; and certain
ornaments, though detached, are yet
rather within the province of architec-
ture than of gardening ; works of sculp-
ture are not, like buildings, objects
familiar in scenes of cultivated nature ;
but vases, statues, and termini, are
usual appendages to a considerable edi- !
fice : as such, they may attend the man-
sion, and trespass a little upon the gar-
den, provided they are not carried so
far into it as to lose their connexion
with the structure. The platform and
the road are also appurtenances to the
house ; all these may, therefore, be
adapted to its form ; and the environs I
will thereby acquire a degree of regu- 1

larity ; but to give it to the objects of
nature, only on account of their prox-
imity to others which are calculated to
receive it, is, at the best, a refinement.

" Upon the same principles regu-
larity has been required in the approach;
and an additional reason has been as-
signed for it, that the idea of a seat is
thereby extended to a distance ; but
that may be by other means than by an
avenue ; a private road is easily known;
if carried through grounds, or a park,
it is commonly very apparent ; even in
a lane, here and there a bench, a paint-
ed gate, a small plantation, or any other
little ornament, will sufficiently denote
it. If the entrance only be marked,
simple preservation will retain the im-
pression along the whole progress ; or
it may wind through several scenes dis-
tinguished by objects, or by an extraor-
dinary degree of cultivation : and then
the length of the way, and the variety
of improvements through which it is
conducted, may extend the appearance
ofdomain and the idea of a seat, beyond
the reach of any direct avenue. A
narrow vista, a mere line of perspective,
be the extent what it may, will seldom
compensate for the loss of that space
which it divides, and of the parts which
it conceals.

"Regularity was, however, once
thought essential to every garden and
every approach ; and it yet remains in
many. It is still a character denoting
the neighbourhood of a gentleman's

EPA

212

EllP

habitation ; and an avenue, as an object EREMURUS spectabilis. Hardy her-
in a view, gives to a house, otherwise baceous. Division. Common soil,
inconsiderable, the air of a mansion. ERIA. Twelve species. Stove
Buildings which answer one another at epiphytes. Division. Peat and pot-
the entrance of an approach, or on the sherds.

bides of an opening, have a similar ERICA, Heath. Four hundred and
effect ; they distinguish at once the ninety-five species, besides very many
precincts of a seat from the rest of the varieties. Most of them green-house,
country. Some pieces of sculpture, but a large number are hardy, and are all
also, such as vases and termini, may evergreen. Cuttings or layers. Sandy
perhaps now and then be used to extend peat. See Heath.
the appearance of a garden beyond its ERIGERON. Forty species. Hardy
limits, and to raise the mead in which herbaceous and annuals. Division or
they are placed above the ordinary im- seed. Common soil,
provements of cultivated nature. At! ERINUS. Five species. Green-
other times they may be applied as house evergreens, and hardy herbace-
ornaments to the most polished lawns ; [ ous. Division or seed. Sandy loam,
the traditional ideas we have conceived : ERIOBOTRYA. Two species. Half-
of Arcadian scenes correspond with such [ hardy evergreen trees. Cuttings, seed,
decorations; and sometimes a solitary | and grafting on the white-thorn. Leaf
urn, inscribed to the memory of a per- i and peat mould.

son now no more, but who once fre- ERIOCEPHALUS. Five species,
quented the shades where it stands, is '• Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
an object equally elegant and interest- I tings. Sandy loam and peat,
ing. ERIOCOMA. Two species. Half-

" The occasions, however, on which hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings,
we may with any propriety trespass ' Common soil.

beyond'the limits of cultivated nature, ' ERIODENDRON. Four species,
are very rare ; the force of the charac- ' Stove evergreen shrubs. Seed. Rich
tercan alone excuse the artifice avowed j loam and sandy peat,
in expressing it." — Whateley. \ ERIOGONUM. Five species. Hardy

EPACRIS. Eighteen species. Green- [herbaceous. Seed. Loam and peat,
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.— ; ERIOL.T.NA. Two species. Green-
Sandv peat. house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.

EPIDENDRUM. Sixty-eight species. \ Sandy peat.
Stove epiphytes. Offsets. Peat and' ERIOPHYLLUM. Two species,
potsherds ''■ H'U'dv. Division. Common soil.

EPIg"(EA. Two species. Hardy' ERIOSOMA. A genus of insects
evergreen trailers. Layers. Sandv peat nearly synonymous with ApMs.
and loam ' -^^ ^I'saria. Poplar Louse.

E P I L 0 B I U M. Seventeen species. ' ^- lanigera. See American Blight.
Hardy herbaceous. Seed or division. ; ERIOSPERNUM. Eight species.
Common soil. Green-house bulbs. Suckers. Sandy

EPIMEDIUM. Five species. Hardy P^-it.

herbaceous. Division. Sandy peat. ' ERIOSTEMON. Ten species. Green-

„r.T„ , „rT,io rru ■ TLi 1 house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.

EPIPACTIS. Three species. Hardy = °

orchids. Division. Sandy peat and
loam.

EPIPHYLLUM. Eleven species.
Stove evergreen cactacea;. Cuttings.
Sandy loam.

EPIPHYTES grow upon other plants,
but, unlike parasites, do not extract
from them nourishment.

ERANTHEMUM. Eleven species.
Stove and green-house evergreen
shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy peat.

ERANTHIS. Two species. Hardy
tubers. Offsets. Sandy loam.

Sandy peat and loam.

ERISMA floribunda. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

ERITHALIS. Two species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Rich loam
and peat.

ERNODEA montana. Half-hardy
evergreen trailer. Division. Gravelly
soil.

Twenty-seven species,
herbaceous. Division.

ERODIUM.
Chiefly hardy
Common soil.

ERPETION.

Two species. HalP-

i

ER Y

213

ERY

hardy evergreen creepers. Division.
Sandy peat.

ERYNGIUM. Thirty-four species.
Chiefly hardy herbaceous. Division or
seed. Common soil.

ERYTHRyEA. Eleven species.
Chiefly hardy annuals. Seed or divi-

brick rubbish at least six inches thick ;
over that lay some small sticks, leaves,
or moss, to prevent the soil from get-
ting into the drainage, and in filling up,
raise the bed six inches above the level
of the surrounding soil — with a compost
consisting of rich turfy loam, leaf-

sion accordingly, as they are annuals or mould, and turfy peat, in the proportion

perennials. Loam

of two parts of the former to one of

ERYTHRINA. Thirty-five species, each of thclatter ; to which sandstone
Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs and or porous bricks, broken to the size of
trees. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and large eggs, may be added to the extent

leaf-mould, in equal proportions

of one-eighth of the whole mass. This

E. crista- gain. Coral Tree. Is one ' mixture will never become solid, on
of the most beautiful of this genus, and j the contrary, it will always be perme-
ils cultivation in the open air is thus ' able to both air and moisture, without
detailed by that excellent gardener, | any risk of becoming saturated with the

Mr. W. P. Ayres :—

I latter. The plants in the first season

"Cuttings of the young wood, taken may be planted eighteen inches apart;
off with a heel when about three inches but in the third year half of them may
long, and planted round the edge of a be taken out to form a new plantation,
large pot, or singly in small ones, in j and in the fifth or sixth year each plant
sandy peat, and plunged in a brisk [ when in flower will acquire an area of
bottom heat, will root in the course of sixteen or twenty square feet. When
a few weeks. This is suitable for those large specimens for immediate effect
puttings which are taken from plants in are desired, four or five may be placed
neat, but cuttings from the open air in juxtaposition.

will not bear such treatment. The j " The best time to plant them out
transition to a close warm frame ap- | will be from the last week in May to
pears too much for them, and they the middle of June, as the ground will
become paralyzed ; but if after being then be a little warm, and the plants
planted they are placed in a moderately j will sustain no check.
warm frame until the cuttings are cica- " Towards the end of October the
trized, and then removed to a brisk j plants should be cut down, and the

bottom heat, they will root with great
freedom.

crown of each covered with a box, or
flower-pot, filled with dry leaves, the

"After the cuttings are rooted, they whole being spread over with dry peat,
must be repotted into rich light com- leaf-mould, or saw-dust, to the depth of
post, and encouraged to make robust , a foot, and then turfed over neatly,
growth. As it is indispensable that the The latter will be found advantageous,
plants should become strong before { especially if the sides of the bed have a
they are planted out, they must have at ; sharpish inclination, as it will throw off
least one season's cultivation in pots; j much of the rain that would otherwise
the flower-buds must also be removed soak into the mould, and impair its
as soon as they are perceptible, so that | protecting properties

the whole organizable matter may be
concentrated in the young plant

' In spring, when the covering is
removed, the surface of the bed should

' In the spring of the second season, be renewed to the depth of the roots

the ground may be prepared for the
reception of the plants, and as the i)re-
servation in winter of the roots of all
tender plants depends as much upon
the dryness as upon the warmth of the
soil, it will be advisable to give them
an elevated but not an exposed situa-
tion ; and where the subsoil is not
porous, make it so artificially. There-
fore, where it is necessary, excavate
the natural soil to the depth of two
feet, and in the bottom place a layer of

with the above compost, the whole
being afterwards covered two inches
thick with sandy peat or leaf mould.
This covering should be continued until
the middle of June, or later if the
weather requires it. Water during the
growing season may be freely adminis-
tered in dry weather, and if liquic^
manure is occasionally given it will add'
to the strength of the plants; hut after
they are in bloom the less water that
falls on the bed the better it will be for

ERY

214

ESP

the preservation of the roots through
the winter." — Gard. Chron. North of
the Potomac it will be safer to remove
the Erythrina c.-galli in autumn -to
some sheltered situation, where it may
be kept in nearly a dry or dormant state
until the spring, when it may again
occupy its position in the open air.

KRYT UROL JEN A conspicua. Hardy
biennial. Seed. Rich loam.

EllYTIIRONIUM. Four species.
Hardy bulbs. Offsets. Common soil,
with a little peat

are withered, which takes place during
the last-named month, when, being
carefully dried and housed, they will
keep until the following spring. Care
must be taken that they are gradually
dried in an airy situation, shaded from
the meridian sun, which would cause
them to wrinkle; as also to store them
in dry weather.

ESCHSCHOLTZIA. See Chryseis.

ESPALIER, is a tree trained to a
trellis instead of a wall, and though
the fruit it bears is not quite equal to

ESCALLONIA. Seven species, i that borne by a tree of the same variety
Green-house and half-hardy evergreen j trained against the wall, yet it is far
shrubs. Cuttings. Peat, sand, and i superior to that borne on either dwarf
loam. j or full standards. Of this the causes

ESCHALLOT or SHALLOT. ^Z-j obviously are, that the fruit and leaves
liu7n ascalonicum. Of this there are j are more fully supplied with sap, and
the common, and the long-keeping, the j more perfectly exposed to the light and
]ast continuing good for two years. ' warmth of the sun. Some gardeners
Both have a stronger taste than the j object to their introduction into the
onion, yet not leaving that odour on the ; kitchen garden on the plea that they
palate which the latter is accustomed j deprive the under crops of air and light,
to do, it is often preferred and em- ■ but if confined to the borders of the
ployed in its stead, both in culinary ■ main walks, the shelter they afford to
preparations, and for eating inits natural ! those crops is more than commensurate
state. j to the slight interruption suggested. In

Time and Mode of Propagation. — j addition, they are highly ornamental.
Each offset of the root will increase in ' and greatly improve the aspect of the
a similar manner as its parent. The j kitchen garden. Espalier rails should
planting may be performed in October ; run parallel with the walks, and at four
and November, or early in the spring, I feet distance from them ; not higher
as February, March, or beginning of j than five feet; neat, and if made of
April. The first is the best season, ; wood, tarred, and the ends which are
especially if the soil lies dry, as the j fixed in the ground charred; though
bulbs become finer. If the smallest blocks of stone sunk into the ground,
offsets are employed for planting, they i with iron sockets or bases to receive
never become mouldy in the ground, those ends, are still better.

and they are never injured by the most
intense frosts.

They are to be planted on the surface,
six inches asunder each way, in beds
not more than four feet wide, some very
rich mould being placed beneath them,
and a little raised on each side to sup-
port them until they become firmly
rooted, when it must be entirely re-
moved by the hoe, and a strong current
of water from the watering pot. The
compost laid beneath the offsets may
consist of a mixture of well-decayed
hot-bed dung and soot, which is very
favourable to their growth, and is a
preservative from the maggot.

Cultivation. — The only attention they
subsequently require is to be kept clear Various suggestions have been made for
of weeds. Some may be taken up as altering the form of espalier trellises,
wanted in June, July, and August, but! but let the gardener never adopt any
not entirely for storing until the leaves I that declines from the perpendicular.

Gooseberries and Currants are highly
improved by being trained as espaliers,
and may be so grown along borders
near the side walks of the kitchen
garden. For these the trellis must be
not higher than three feet from the
ground, and for the purpose stakes
about four inches in circumference,
and thus arranged, are very suitable.

Fig. 41.

ETI

215

EVE

The smallest approach to the horizontal
increases the radiation of heat from the
trees, and increases, consequently, the
cold they have to endure at night. It

Bristol. As it often happens, the fe-
male has not been observed depositing
her eggs; the spot that she selects is
therefore yet unknown. Drought does

is not one of the least advantages of 1 not suit them." — Card. Chron.

training gooseberries and currants as
espaliers, that it facilitates the protect-
ing them with mats.

ETIOLATION. See Blanching.
EUCALYPTUS. Fifty-three species.
Green-house evergreen trees. Cuttings.
Peat, loam, and sand.

EUCHARIDIUM concinnum. Hardy
annual. Seed. Common soil.

EUCHILUS obcordatus. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam,
peat, and sand.

EUCHROMA. 'Two species. Har-
dy; one perennial, the other annual.
.Seed. Common soil, with a little peat.

EUCLEA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Peat and loam.

EUCGMIS. Seven species. Green-
house bulbs. Offsets. Rich loam.

EUCROSIA bicolor. Green-house
bulb. Offsets. Common light soil.

EUGENIA. Twenty-eight species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

EULOPHIA. Eight species. Green-
house and stove orchids. Division.
Peat and loam.

EUMERUS. A genus of predatory
flies.

E. eeneus. Brassy Onion Fly, is thus
described by Mr. Curtis: —

"The maggots are very rough, from
a multitude of short spines or rigid
bristles, which cover their skins, espe-

EUNOMIA oppositifolia. Half-hardy
herbaceous. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

EUONYMUS. Eighteen species.
Chiefly hardy evergreen shrubs. Seed
or cuttings. Common soil.

EUPATORIUM. Fifty species, em-
bracing hardy, green-house, and stove
herbaceous, and perennial plants. Seed.
Peat and loam.

EUPHORBIA. One hundred and
fifty-two species. Chiefly hardy, green-
house and stove evergreens. Division
or seed. Common soil.

" E. splendens is the most striking
species. It is a stove evergreen shrub.
It should be repotted early in spring,
or even in the winter, if the pot is full
of roots. Although it does not require
so much water in winter, yet you must
not keep it then quite dry, for it is al-
ways growing." — Card. Chron.

E. jaquinajlora is also a very beau-
tiful species, producing a profusion of
deep orange coloured flowers in a
wreath like form.

EURYA. Two species. Green-house
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

EURYALE ferox. Stove aquatic.
Seed.

EURYCLES. Four species. Stove
bulbs. Seed and offsets. Sandy loam
and leaf-mould.

EUSTEGIA hastnta. Green-house

cially towards the tail, ferruginous or j evergreen trailer. Cuttings. Peat and

brownish. The fly itself is of a reddish
ochre colour, freckled with dark brown,
and there are two spiny processes like
short horns upon the thorax, in the fe-
male at least. It is densely clothed
with short hairs, thickly and distinctly
punctured, and of an olive-green colour,
with a brassy tinge; the antenna; are
entirely black, the seta naked : the face
is very hairy, simply convex and silvery
white; eyes dark brown and slightly
pubescent; rostrum very short ; thorax
with two whitish lines down the back.
The maggots of this fly do not seem to
be confined to the onion, for I bred one
in the middle of May from cabbage
roots, and specimens have been taken
flying about hedges in June and July,
in the Deighbourhood of London and

loam.

EUSTOMA silenifoUa. Hardy an-
nual. Seed. Common soil.

EUSTREPHUS. Two species.
Green-house evergreen twiners. Cut-
tings. Sandy peat.

EUTAXIA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

EUTHALES trinervis. Green-house
herbaceous. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

EUTHAMIA. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

EUTOCA. Five species. Hardy
annuals and biennials. Seeds. Sandy
soil.

EUXENI A g-ra<a. Green-house ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

EVENING FLOWER. Hesperus.

EVE

216

EXT

EVENING PRIMROSE. CEnotkera. 1 summer, when the moisture supplied to

EVERGREENS are such plants as do I a club-rooted cabbage by its root does

not shed all their leaves at any one ; not nearly equal the exhalation of its

season of the year. I foliage, to supply this deficiency the

EVERGREEN THORN. Cratagusl plant endeavours', by forming a kind of

pyracantha.

EVERLASTING. Gmiphalium.

EVERLASTING PEA. Lathyrus
latifolivs.

EVODIA triphylla. Stove evergreen
shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam.

spurious bulbous root, to adapt itself to
the contingency." — Princ. of Garden-
ing.

EXTRAVASATED SAP. "Under
this general name, I purpose to include
the consideration of gumming, bleeding,

EVOLVULUS. Eleven species, and other injurious affections under

Chiefly stove annual trailers; two are
hardy, and tvifo evergreens. The last
propagated by division ; others by seed.
Common soil.

EXCRESCENCE. «' Independent of
Galls, which are caused by the punc-
tures of insects, and the swellings which
always a<;company Canker, the excres-
cences which injure the gardener's
crops are very few. That which ap-
pears above the point of union between
the scion and stock, is caused by the
former being the freer grower of the
two, and is a warning which should be
remembered, for it curtails the longevity
of the tree, the supply of sap gradually
becoming inefficient.

"The excrescences which occur upon
the branches of some apples, as those
of the codling and June-eating, cannot
be looked upon as disease, for they
arise from congeries of abortive buds,
which readily protrude roots if buried
in the soil, making those among the
very few apples which can be propa-
gated by cuttings. Of a similar nature

which plants occasionally labour, on
account of their sap escaping from the
properly containing vessels. The ex-
travasation proceeds either from the al-
burnum or from the inner bark and may
arise from five causes.

" 1. The acrid or alkaline state of
the sap, which has been considered
already, when treating of the canker.

" 2. From plethora or excessive
abundance of the sap.

" 3. From the unnatural contraction
of the circulatory vessels.

" 4. From wounds.

"5. Heat and dryness.

" 1. With regard to the alkaline state
of the sap, it may be observed, addition-
ally, that the excessive alkaline quality
of the sap, imparting to it the power of
destroying the fibre of its containing
vessels, is placed on the basis of chemi-
cal experiment. A weak alkaline solu-
tion dissolves woody fibre without
alteration; and it may be thrown down
again by means of an acid. By this
property we are enabled to separate

are the huge excrescences so prevalent j wood from most of the other vegetable
on aged oaks and elms. Bulbous ex- 1 principles, as few of them are soluble

crescences are formed upon the roots of
many plants if compelled to grow upon
a soil drier than that which best suits
them. This is the case especially with
two grasses, Phleum pratense and Al-
opecurus gcniculatiis, and is evidently a
wise provision of nature to secure the
propagation of the species, for those
bulbs will vegetate long after the re-
mainder of the plant has been destroyed
by the excessive dryness of the soil.

"On the free performance of this
function of plants their health is depend-
ent in a very high degree : and I believe
that half the epidemics to which they
are subject arises from its derangement.
That consequence of the clubbing of
the roots of the brassica tribe, called
fingers and toes, arises, I consider,
entirely from it. In the drought of

in weak alkaline leys.

" It is true, that the vital principle
may counteract powerfully this chemi-
cal action ; but it will not control the
corrosive effect of an active agent in
excess, if repeated for any length of
time. The blood of the human system
contains, when in a healthy state, a por-
tion of common salt; yet, if this saline
constituent is in excess, it induces in-
flammation and organic derangement.

" 2. Plethora is that state of a plant's
excessive vigour in which the sap is
formed more rapidly than the circulatory
vessels can convey it away. When this
occurs, rupture must take place, for the
force with which it is propelled during
circulation, and consequently, the force
acting to burst the vessels during any
check, is very much greater than could

EXT

217

EXT

have been expected, before Mr. Hales
demonstrated it by experiment.

" Now, we know that a much less
pressure than any of those above men-
tioned would be capable of bursting the
delicate membranes of any of their ex-
terior descending sap vessels, and it is
in such outer ducts that the injury first
occurs. When one exterior vessel is
ruptured, that next beneath it, having
the supporting pressure removed, is
enabled to follow the same course at
the same locality; and in proportion to
the length of the time that the sap con-
tinues in excess, is the depth to which
the mischief extends, and the quantity
of sap extra vasated.

" If the extravasation proceeds from
this cause, there is but one course of
treatment to be pursued ; sever one of
the main roots to afford the tree im-
mediate relief, and reduce the staple of
the soil, by removing some of it, and
admixing less fertile earthy components,
as sand or chalk. This must be done
gradually, for the fibrous roots that are
suited for the collection of food from a
fertile soil are not at once adapted for
the introsusception of that from a less
abundant pasturage. Care must be
taken not to apply the above remedies
before it is clearly ascertained that the
cause is not an unnatural contraction of
the sap vessels, because, in such case,
the treatment might be injurious rather
than beneficial. I have always found it
arising from an excessive production of
sap, if the tree, when afflicted by extra-
vasation, produces at the same time
super-luxuriant shoots.

" 3. Local contractions of the sap
vessels. — If the extravasation arises
from this cause, there is usually a swell-
ing of the bark immediately above the
place of discharge.

"I had a cherry tree in my garden,
in Essex, of which the stock grew very
much less freely than the graft, conse-
quently, just above the place of union,
a swelling resembling a wen extended
round the whole girth of the tree, from
which swelling gum was continually
exuding. In the stem below it, I never
observed a single extravasation. In a
case such as this, the cultivator's only
resource is to reduce cautiously the
amount of branches, if the bleeding
threatens to be injuriously extensive,
otherwise it is of but little consequence,
acting like temporary discharges of

blood from the human frame, as a re-
lief to the system.

" 4. The extravasation of the sap from
a wound is usually the most exhausting,
and as the wound, whether contused or
not, is liable to be a lodgment for wa-
ter and other foreign bodies opposed to
the healing of the injured part, the dis-
charge is often protracted. This is
especially the case if the wound be
made in the spring, before the leaves
are developed, as in performing the
winter pruning of the vine later than is
proper. In such case, the vine always
is weakened, and in some instances it
has been destroyed. The quantity of
sap which may be made to flow from
some trees is astonishing, especially in
tropical climates. Thus, from a cocoa-
nut palm, from three to five pints of sap
will flow during every day for four or
five successive weeks. The best mode
of checking such exudations, is by plac-
ing a piece of sponge dipped in a solu-
tion of sulphate of iron upon the dis-
charging place, covering the sponge
with a piece of sheet-lead, and binding
it on firmly. The sulphate acts as a
styptic, promoting the contraction of
the mouths of the vessels; the sponge
encourages cicatrization, and the lead
excludes moisture.

" 5. Heat attended by dryness of the
soil, as during the drought of summer,
is very liable to produce an unnatural
exudation. This is especially notice-
able upon the leaves of some plants,
and is popularly known as honey-dew.
It is somewhat analogous to that out-
burst of blood, which in such seasons is
apt to occur to man, and arises from
the increased action of the secretory
and circulatory system, to which it af-
fords relief There is this great and
essential difference, that, in the case of
the plants, the extravasation is upon the
surface of the leaves, and conse(juently
in proportion to the abundance of the
extruded sap are their respiration and
digestion impaired.

" Azaleas sometimes, but rarely, have
the impubcscence on their leaves, espe-
cially on their lower surface, beaded as
it were with a resinous exudation. This
can scarcely be called a disease. It is
never found but upon plants that have
been kept in a temperature too high,
and in a soil too fertile. It is an effort
to relieve the surcharged vessels, and
occurs in various forms in other plants.

EXT

218

EXT

" The honey-dew was noticed by the
ancients, and is mentioned by Pliny by
the fanciful designation of the ' sweat of
the heavens,' and the ' saliva of the
stars,' though he questioned whether it
is a deposition from the air, purging it
from some contracted impurity. More
modern philosophers have been quite
as erroneous and discordant in their

dew, ' almost as fast as it was deposit-
ed,' to collect it in considerable quan-
tities, and convert it into the choicest
sugar and sugar-candy.'

" The bees, however, he found to-
tally disregarded the honey-dew which
came under his observation. With the
opinion of Mr. Curtis I do not agree,
any more than does the Abbe Boissier

opinion relative to the disease's nature. I de Sauvages, who, in a memoir read
Some, with the most unmitigable aspe- j before the Society of Sciences at Mont-
rity, declare that it is the excrement of j pellier, gives an account of ' a shower

aphides. Others as exclusively main-
tain that it is an atmospheric deposit.

and a third party consider that it arises I at Paris.

of honey-dew,' which he witnessed
under a lime tree in the king's garden

from bleeding, consequent to the wounds
of insects. That there may be a gluti-

■ The various successful applications
of liquids to plants, in order to prevent

nous saccharine liquid found upon the ' the occurrence of the honey-dew and

leaves of plants arising from the first and
third named causes is probable, or
rather certain ; but this is by no means
conclusive that there is not a similar
liquid extravasated upon the surface of
the leaves, owing to some unhealthy
action of their vessels. It is with this
description of honey-dew that we are
here concerned. The error into which
writers on this subject appear to have
fallen, consists in their having endea-
voured to assign the origin of every kind
of honey-dew to the same cause. Thus
the Rev. Gilbert White seems {Natu-
ralist's Calendar, 144) to have had a
fanciful and comprehensive mode of ac-
counting for the origin of honey-dew :
he tells us, June 4th, 1783, vast honey-
dews this week. The reason of this
seems to be, that in hot days the efflu-
via of flowers are drawn up by a brisk
evaporation, and then in the night fill
down with the dews with which they
are entangled. The objection urged to
this theory by Curtis {Trans. Linn. Soc.
vi. 82) is conclusive. If it fell from the
atmosphere, it would cover every thing
on which it fell indiscriminately ; where-
as we never find it, but on certain
living plants and trees; we find it also
on plants in stoves and green-houses
with covered glass.

"Curtis had convinced himself that
the honey-dew was merely the excre-

similar diseases, would seem to indi-
cate that a morbid state of the sap is
the chief cause of the honey-dew, for
otherwise it would be difficult to explain
the reason why the use of a solution of
common salt in water applied to the
soil in which a plant is growing, can
prevent a disease caused by insects.
But if we admit that the irregular action
of the sap is the cause of the disorder,
then we can understand that a portion
of salt introduced in the juices of the
plant would naturally have a tendency
to correct or vary any morbid tendency,
either correcting the too rapid secretion
of sap, stimulating it in promoting its
regular formation, or preserving its flu-
idity. And that by such a treatment
the hone3'-dew may be entirely pre-
vented, I have myself often witnessed
in my own garden, when experiment-
alizing with totally different objects.
Thus I have seen plants of various
kinds, which have been treated with
a weak solution of confimon salt and
water, totally escape the honey-dew,
where trees of the same kind growing
in the same plot of ground not so treat-
ed, have been materially injured by its
ravages. I think, howjever, that the
solution which has been sometimes em-
ployed for this purpose is much too
strong for watering plants. I Jiave al-
ways preferred a weak liquid, and I am

ment of the aphides, and he supported , of opinion, that one ounce of salt (chlo-
his theory with his usual ability, al- j ride of sodium) to a gallon of water is
though he justly deemed it a little quite powerful enough for the intended
' wonderful extraordinary' that any in- I purpose. I am in doubt as to the cor-
sect should secrete as excrementitious i redness of Knight's opinion, as to the
matter, sugar; he even thought it pos- ; mere water having any material influ-
sible, if the ants, wasps, and flies, could ence in the composition of such are-
be prevented from devouring the honey- | medy, since I have noticed that standard

EYE

219

F AL

fruit trees, around which, at a distance
of six or eight feet from the stem, I had
deposited at a depth of twelve inches a
quantity of salt to promote the general
health and fruitfulnoss of the tree, ac-
cording to the manner formerly adopted
to some extent in the cider countries
for the apple orchards, that these es-
caped the honey-dew which infected
adjacent trees, just as well as those
which had been watrrod with salt and
•water." — Jolinson^s Principles of Gar-
dening.

EYEBRIGHT. Kitphrasia.
FAB A vulgaris. See Bean.
FABRICIA. Four species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam, peat, and sand.

FAGELIA bituminosa. Green-honse
evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

FAGR/EA. Two species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam,
sand, and peat.

FAGUS, Beech tree. Four species.
Seed, budding, and grafting. Chalky
loam.

FALKLV repens. Green-house ever-
green creeper. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

FALL of the LEAF. Dr. Lindley
thus explains this phenomenon.

" In the course of time a leaf be-
comes incapable of performing its
functions ; its passages are choked up
by the deposit of sedimentary matter ;
there is no longer a free communica-
tion between its veins and the wood
and liber. It changes colour, ceases to
decompose carbonic acid, absorbs oxy-
gen instead, gets into a morbid condi-
tion, and dies; it is then thrown off.
This phenomenon, which we call tlie
fall of the leaf, is going on the whole
year. Those trees which lose the
whole of their leaves at the approach
of winter, artd are called deciduous,
begin, in fact, to cast their leaves with-
in a few weeks after the commence-
ment of their vernal growth ; but the
mass of their foliage is not rejected till
late in the season. Those, on the
other hand, which are named ever-
greens, part with their leaves much
more slowly; retain them in health at
the time when the leaves of other
plants arc perishing; and do not cast
them till a new spring has commenced,
when other trees are leafing, or even

later. In the latter class, the functions
of the leaves are going on during all
the winter, although languidly ; they
are constantly attracting sap from the
earth through the spongelets, and are
therefore in a state of slow but con-
tinual winter growth.

" It usually happens that the per-
spiratory organs of these plants are less
active than in deciduous species." —
Theory of Horticulture.

With all due deference to Dr. Lind-
ley, whose scientific acquirements are
ol' a high order, we cannot admit that
his theory in this particular is entirely
satisfactory. Nature has ordained that
vegetables shall perform certain func-
tions, and that which may appear to be
the cause of change, is in fact only
a result of the action of established
laws.

FALLOWING, beyond all doubt, is
needless where there is a due supply
of manure, and a sufficient application
of the spade, fork, and hoe to the soil.
Fallowing can have no other beneficial
influence than by destroying weeds,
aiding the decomposition of offensive
exuviaj, exposing the soil to the disin-
tegrating influence of the air, and ac-
cumulating in it decomposing matter.
Now all these effects can be produced
by judicious stirrings and manurings.
Mr. Barnes, gardener to Lady Rolle,
at Bicton, bears confirmatory testimony
to this opinion, founded on many years'
experience.

" To rest or fallow ground for any
length of time is only loss of time and
produce; more benefit will be obtained
by trenching and forking in frosty or
hot sunny weather, in a few days, than
a whole season of what is erroneously
called rest or fallow. Trench, fork,
and hoe; change every succeeding
crop; return to the earth all refuse
that is not otherwise useful in a green
state, adding a change of other manures
occasionally, especially charred refuse
of any kind, at the time of putting a
crop into the ground. Every succeed-
ing crop wUl be found healthy and
luxuriant, suff'ering but little either
from drought, too much moisture, or
vermin." — Principles of Gardening.

The practice of fallowing appears to

have been one of great antiquity.

Virgil (who flourished his grey-goose

I quill two thousand years ago), thus

' alludes to it in his Georgics :

FAR

220

FEB

" Both these unhappy soils the swain

forbears,
And keeps a Sabbath of alternate years,

ORCHARD.

Apples, finish pruning, b. Apri-
cots, finish pruning, b. — Blossoms of

That the spent earth may gather heart: early wall fruit, shelter in frosty and

windy weatlier. — Dress and fork
over the earth of the borders, &c. —
Figs, prune. — Forcing, continue. (See
Jan.) — Gooseberries, finish pruning, b.
— Grafting, commence, if mild, e. —
Grafts, collect ready for use. — Hot-
house, forcing continue. (See Jan.) —

again
And bettered by cessation, bear the

grain,
At least where vetches, pulse, and

tares, have stood,
And stalks of lupines grew (a stubborn

wood)

Th' ensuing season, in return may bear i Layers, make of Figs, Vines, Filberts,

The bearded product of the golden
year."

FARAMF>A odoratissima. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Turfy
loam and sandy peat.

FARM - YARD MANURE. See
Ihing.

FARSETIA. Six species. F.
cheiranthifoUa is a hardy annual ; the
others are half-hardy evergreen shrubs.
The first by seed, the shrubs by cut-
tings. Light loam.

FEABERRY, a local name for the
Gooseberry.

FEATHERS. See Animal Matters.

FEBRUARY.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Except in the remote south, the out-
door operations of the gardener are
almost suspended. Nearly all that he
can do is to provide manure, prepare
rods and poles for peas and beans,
labels for his plants, and if the weather
admit, trench those compartments of his

Mulberri(>s, and Muscle Plums, the last
for stocks. — MfzwMres, apply where re-
quired.— Mu^s, on trees, destroy with
brine. (See Jan.) — Pears, finish pruning;
graft, e. — Plums, finish pruning ; graft,
e. — Pruning, finish generally. — Rasp-
berries. — Standards, finish pruning. —
Straicberries, c\ea.r and spring dress;
force in hot-beds, giving air abun-
dantly, and covering the glasses with
mats at night. — Trench ground for
planting. — Vines may still be pruned,
b.; cuttings, plant.

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit freely during midday,
when weather permits. — Bulbs, and
other dry roots for succession, plant,
b. — Bark Beds attend to. (See Jan.) —
Cherries, in blossom, shade when sun
is bright ; disbud as required : day
temp, keep about 60° ; night 45°. —
Earth of borders, &c., stir once a
week. — Figs require a day temp, about
60°. — Flowering shrubs in pots, intro-
duce for succession. — Heat, keep up ;

grounds which require such treatment, j plants becoming more sensitive. — Jfj'd-
Such labour and the preparation of hot- ney JSeans, continue to sow in boxes,
beds for forcing, may profitably employ ' (See Jan.) — Labels, renew where re-
his time. Cabbage, Eggplants, Toma- ' quired. — ieat'^'S, keep cleaned ; decay-
toes. Peppers, &;c., are now sown in j ed and weeds clear away constantly. —
hot-beds for early planting. If the , Liquid Manure apply to the roots of
weather be very cold delay awhile, fruit trees in forcing, especially Vines
nothing can be gained by setting them and Figs. — Peaches, and other fruits in
during strong frost. Farther south blossom, should not now be syringed ;
labour has now commenced in earnest, j disbud; thin when too thick, and as large
In theCarolinas and southward, it is per- ' as peas ; day temp. 60°. — Pines, water

haps one of the most active months in
horticultural operations. Beans and
Peas are planted; Cabbage and Cauli-
flower sown, and plants from previous

moderately ; (crowns of) remove from
bark bed to pots; regulate succession
by changing their pots, &c. — Steam, (if
employed) may be admitted almost

sowings transplanted. Lettuce plants j daily. — Strawberries, in pols, introduce

from the autumn seed beds are set out.
Spinach is sown, also Radishes, Car- 1
rots. Parsnips, Beets; Asparagus beds
are dressed. In short, all the early ope-
rations of the garden are now per-
formed.

for succession. — Thermometer , for most
stove plants, may be at 70" during mid-
day.— Tobacco fumigations give weekly,
or oftener if insects appear. — Vines,
treat as in Jan.; do not syringe whilst
in blossom; prune bunches; day temp.

FED

221

FEN

70°. — Water, g'we more freely than last
month ; keep in open pans constantly.
— Watch sedulously for the green fly
and red spider.

GREEN-HOrSE.

Air, admit freely whenever practica-
ble; it is now still more important than
in winter. — Dead Wood, cut away as it
appears. — Earth, give fresh generally.
— Head down shrubs irregularly grown.
— Heat, give as necessary, to keep the j
temp, above 32'-'. — Labels, renew where
wanted. — Leaves, keep clean, and re-
move those decayed. — Priming of
Oranges, ^-c., complete. — Shelter, by
putting mats over the glass in severe
weather. — Shift into large pots where |
required. — Water more oflen than last'
month, wherever needed, but only a
little at a time.

FEDIA cornucopia. Hardy annual.
Seed. Common soil.

FENCES are employed to mark the
boundary of property, to exclude tres-
passers, either human or quadrupedal,
and to afford shelter. They are either
live fences, and are then known as
hedges, or dead, and are then either
banks, ditches, palings, or walls ; or
they are a union of those two, to which
title* the reader is referred.

The following is the English law on
the subject : —

In the eye of the law a hedge, fence,
ditch, or other inclosure of land, is for
its better manuring and improvement;
and various remedies are therefore pro-
vided for their preservation.

The common using of a wall separat-
ing adjoining lands belonging to differ-
ent owners is jjrm(5/ac/<; evidence that
the wall, and the land on which it
stands, belongs in equal moieties to the
owners of those lands as tenants in
common. {Cubitt v. Porter, 8 B. & C.
257.)

One of such tenants in common of a
wall or hedge may maintain an action
of trespass against the co-tenant for in-
juring the wall or for grubbing up the
hedge, but not for clipping the latter.
(Voyce v. Toi/ce, Gow. 201.)

If a field be fenced with a bank and
ditch, it is not a necessary consequence
that his ditch extends eight feet from
the interior line of the bunk's foot, viz.,
four feet for t)ie base of the bank, and
four feet for the ditch ; and the owner
has no right to cut into his neighbour's

field to widen the ditch beyond the
proof of its ancient width. (Vowles v.
Miller, 3 Taunton, 137.)

Where two fields are separated by a
hedge and ditch, the \\e6ge,prijn(i facie,
belongs to the owner of the field in
which the ditch is not. If there are
two ditches, one on each side the ditch,
evidence must prove acts of ownership
over the hedge to show to whom it be-
longs. {Guy V. West, 2 Selwyn, N. P.
1287.)

The owner of the wall or hedge is
bound to repair it; and if any injury
arises from its being out of repair, an
action on the case lies.

Any one stealing or cutting, breaking
or throwing down, with the intent to
steal, any fence, post, pales, rail, stile,
or gate, or any part thereof, may be
fined by a justice of the peace the
amount of the injury done, and a fine
not exceeding bl. Committing the same
offence a second time renders the of-
fender liable to twelve months' impri-
sonment and a whipping.

Stealing metal garden-fencing is a
felony. In America each State has its
own peculiar laws on this as on other
subjects. In Pennsylvania, by an Act
of 1700, entitled ".4/1 act for the regu-
lating and maintaining of Fences," it
was provided that " all cornfields and
grounds kept for inclosures within the
said province and counties annexed,
shall be well fenced with fence at least
five feet high, and close at the bottom,
&c." By an Act of 1729, it was pro-
vided that " to prevent disputes about
the sufficiency of fences, all fences
shall be esteemed lawful and sufficient,
though they be not close at the bottom,
so that the distance from the ground to
the bottom thereof, exceed not nine
inches; and that they be lour feet and
a half high, and not under." Both acts
are operative in certain counties only. —
See Pardon's Digest.

Ornamental fences for enclosing gar-
dens, yards, &c., are almost as diversi-
fied as the ideas of beauty in the human
mind. "The impression, on viewing
grounds laid out with some preten-
sion to taste, is governed in a degree,
by the style and character of the sur-
rounding fence. It is a great mistake
to suppose the most elaborate (and of
course costly) arc the most pleasing ;
j yet acting on this supposition, we see
1 exhibited fences which appear to have

FEN

222

FER

been plnnned as if to show the amount | many ; for ourselves, we should choose
of money which could be thus expend- the latter, though it be not the best,
ed and after all, they rather disgust so far as the preservation of the wood

than please.

Fig. 43.

is concerned." — Rural Reg.

FENNEL {Anethum Fanicvlum) will
flourish in almost any soil or situation :
in a dry soil it is longest-lived. It is
propagated both by oftsets, partings of
the root, and by seed ; all of which
modes may be practised any time be-
tween the beginning of February and
the end of April. The best season,
however, for sowing, is autumn, soon
after the seed is ripe, at which time it
may also be planted with success.

Insert the plants a foot apart, and the

seed in drills, six or twelve inches

asunder, according as it is intended that

— I the plants are to be transplanted or to

remain.

' When advanced to the height of four
or five inches, if they are intended for
removal, the plants are pricked out
eight inches apart, to attain strength for
final planting in autumn or spring.
Water must be given freely at every
removal, and until established, if the
weather is at all dry.

They require no other cultivation
than to be kept free from weeds ; and
the stalks of those that are not required
to produce seed to be cut down as
often as they run up in summer. If this
is strictly attended to, the roots will
last for many years ; but those which
are allowed to ripen their seed seldom
endure for more than five or six.
FENNEL-FLOWER. Nigella.
FENUGREK. Trigonella.
FERNELIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Turfy
loam and peat.

FERNS from the tropics present to
us some of the most beautiful forms to
be found in the vegetable world, and^
now very generally are a portion of
collections of exotic plants. Mr. .T
Henderson, the florist, gives the follow-
ing directions for their cultivation : —
" Procure a number of small octagon-
I shaped hand-glasses about six inches in
"The figures 42, 43, 44, illustrate ! diameter, (more or less,) according to
three simple designs, formed by straight, the size of the pots intended to sow the
slats or pales, and therefore of the least ' seeds in, the side walls of each being
expense; thoy are readily executed, : high enough to admit the pot to stand
and agreeable from their simplicity. , underneath without touching the glass.
The colour which should be used, is of! " Pots.— These are to be about half
course a matter of taste ; white is gene- filled with well broken potsherds, the
rally preferred, though dark shades, finest at top ; then fill to within half an
even jet black, arc the most pleasing to ! inch of the rim with heath-mould, sifted

~

-

1

-

-

- -

-

-

'^^•W«j^„j>«,v

■--n^^R^AW^■«>"'^«o:ws<v^^c^:^«?f^<s:A^■**w«<^

FER

223

FER

through a fine sieve. Level the surface [ slight depression should be made with
of the mould, and water it freely with a the point of the pen-knife on tlie sur-
very fine rose ; let the pot stand a few ■ face of the mould in the new pot, and
minutes till the water is absorbed, and the patch inserted, taking care not to
then carry it to a dry part of the house. , cover any part of the plants with the
"Sowing. — Place the papers con- i earth. They may stand about a quarter
taining the fern seed for a minute or of an inch from patch to patch; and
two on the flue, or some other place when the operation is completed, water
where they will become thoroughly the seedlings and place the pot under
dry : then open the paper and carefully the glasB.

dust the spores (seed) over the surface " These transplanted seedlings will
of the moist earth, taking care not to frequently succeed better than those in

sow too thick. The pots may then be
placed in a shady place on a level sur-
face of wood or stone, to prevent the
intrusion of worms, and covered with
the hand-glass. The germination of
ferns differs in different species; some
require sis weeks and more ; and i

the seed-pots; indeed with very slow
growing seedlings it is frequently ad-
visable to transfer the whole to another
pot, as they will generally root better
in the fresh than in the old earth.

" When the seedlings have fully de-
veloped their perfect fronds, (and not

during that time the surface of the earth ; till then,) the glasses maybe withdrawn
in the pots should appear dry, a very ' The pot with the seedlings should then
slight watering must be given with the be placed in a perfectly shaded place,
fine rose.

"After-culture. — It will be necessary
to examine the surface of the earth fre-

and more frequently supplied with

water.

" They may remain in the seed-pots
quenlly with a pocket microscope, in ' until three or four fronds are produced,
order to discover any mouldiness or when it will be advisable to shift them
minute algaj that may "appear ; such ap- into other pots and place them at wider
pearances indicate that too much water distances.

has been used; and in that case the " ISIany ferns grow very slowly while
glasses sliould be taken off for a short in the state of primary frond, and re-

time, and the pots removed to the full
light.

" Ifaftcr this the mouldiness continue
to spread, a knife may be introduced
between the pot and the earth, and the
latter slightly raised up so as to allow
the moisture to drain off.

" As the seedlings acquire strength,
they may be removed from the shade

quire many months before their perfect
fronds are developed.

" It is chiefly for these slow growers
that glasses are required ; others, such
as most of the (Jymnogrammas, some
species of Nephrodium, Ptoris, &c.,
come up readily in open pots, but with
those which recjuire from nine to eight-
een months to produce their second

to places where they will have more ! fronds, glasses are indispensable
light; but they must not be exposed to "Great care must be taken not to
the full sun in summer as long as they allow worms to get into the pots, as they
are under the hand-glass. In winter, will in a very short time destroy the
however, when the sun is less power- [ whole crop. The only way to get rid
ful, all those seedlings that have per- I of these pests, is to place the pot with
fccted, or nearly perfected their first the glass over it, on a tolerably hot
fronds, may be exposed to the full flue, or some other well-heated surface,
light; this will prevent the spreading of when the heat ascending through the
mouldiness, which the moist atmo- earth in the pot will drive the worm

sphere under the glasses is so apt to out.

produce at this season of the year.

" It may not be amiss to observe

"When it happens that from too here, that in collecting spores for repro-
thick sowing the seedlings are much i duction, it is belter tp select a frond on
crowded, they should be thinned out which the theca; (seed vessels) have not
carefully with the point of a pen-knife, opened ; if they have changed to a
taking patches of from six to a dozen brown colour, and one or two have
plants and transferring them to another j opened, they will be in the best possi-
pot, prepared in ail respects as if for I ble state for transmission to a distance ;
sowing spores. In planting these, a ' portions of the frond should then be in-

FER

224

FIG

closed in the papers, which should be
well secured and kept perfectly dry." —
Gard. Chron.

FERRARIA. Eight species. Green-
house and hardy bulbs. Offsets and
seeds. Sandy loam and peat.

FICARIA. Three species. Hardy
tubers, tubers, shaded. Common soil.

F I C U S. Fig Tree. Seventy-seven
species. Chiefly green-house and stove
evergreen trees and shrubs. Cuttings.
Light rich ioam.

F I E L D I A australis. Green-house
evergreen creeper. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

FIG MARIGOLD. Mesemhryanthe-
mum.

FIG. Ficus carica.

a warm cucumber-frame, and re-potting
them two or three times, they will
attain a large size in one summer.
With these cuttings, as with the trees
at all ages, bottom heat and water is
every thing." — Gard. Chron.

Soil. — Mr. Markham says, "The
best soil for this fruit is sandy maiden
loam and turf mixed together, without
manure of any kind, over-luxuriance
being a great evil "in their culture. I
would advise all who are about to plant
a fig wall, to form the borders about
three feet deep, having a good drainage
of any rough material. At the front of
this, a wall four inches and a half thick,
running parallel with the other should
be brought up to within two inches of

Varieties for open walls, and time of' the surface, the intervening space being

ripening. — Brown Ischia, Large White
Genoa, and Green Ischia, (August.)
Brown Naples, Brunswick, White Mar-
seilles, (September.) Black Provence,
Yellow Ischia, and Genoa, (October.) [
Propagation may be effected by
seeds, and cross impregnation to get j
varieties ; the seedlings will be pro-

walled across so that each tree may
have its own division. This prevents
over-luxuriance, and causes them to
fruit more freely. Any old trees that
are growing strong and that do not bear
well, might have their roots pruned
back in autumn and walled in as above
described. By doing this early it would

ductive when six years old ; by layers, afford the tree time to provide itself

suckers, slips, and grafting, but by
cuttings is the mode usually practised.
These must be of young wood, about
eight inches long, with two inches of
old wood attached. Plant in October,
in a sandy loam and warm situation,
the surface covered with ashes, to ex-
clude the frost and drought. " The
tops of the cuttings will require the
additional protection of haulm or litter
during winter; give water and keep
clear of weeds during summer, and by
the following autumn the plants will be
fit to be transplanted into nursery rows,
where they must again be mulched at
root, and protected at top. They re-
quire no pruning farther than to rear
them with a single stem, and keep their
heads of a regular shape ; the second or
third year they may be removed to
where they are finally to remain. Cut-
tings of roots readily make plants, but
the process is too slow for general use,
and the plants so produced are not
likely to come so soon into bearing as
by the layers or cuttings." — Loudon^s
Enc. Gard.

Cuttings of the shoots may be of
well-ripened wood, which Mr. Mark-
ham, of Hevvell Gardens, says may be
also " taken off in spring and potted
singly in small pots ; plunging them in

with new feeders, and by opening a
trench in the front of the wall, about
the end of March or beginning of April,
and applying a pretty brisk lining of
leaves and long litter for a few weeks,
it would greatly assist the crop for
that season, and establish the trees
for the following. Water occasionally
with soft water ; and, after the fruit has
attained three-fourths ofits size, two or
three good waterings of liquid manure
will assist materially in bringing the
fruit to a large size." — Gard. Chron.

Good drainage is also very important;
an excess of root-moisture making the
plants over-luxuriant.

Standards must have a single stem,
and require no other pruning than to
remove irregular growths, suckers, and
decayed branches. The soil should be
forked over annually, and kept con-
stantly freed from weeds by the hoe.

Wall-trees and Espaliet's. — Mr. Mark-
ham says that of these, " The requisite
pruning is merely to thin the branches
where they are too thick, and to admit
plenty of light and air. The points of
any branches that indicate too luxuriant
a growth are pinched out. The tree
will show how young bearing wood is
procured, when the branches get too
long, or begin to have a naked appear-

F IG

225

♦ —

FIG

ance. For covering the fig in winter, the latter pirt of February ; but this is
a double thickness of old mats is advis- a very trifling operation wliere they
able, with a little mulching; a wide have been properly attended to in sum-
coping on the wall is very essential, mer, being only to cut out here and
and a canvas covering drawn over them [ there a superfluous shoot, or to shorten
at night in the early part of their growth ' one back to any naked or unfurnished
is of great benefit to them." — Gard. ' part, in order to procure a supply of
Chron. \ young shoots. Then have the whole

The Mode of Bearing is very pecu- forked over between the trees, giving
liar, and influences the pruning, or them a good watering. Small fires are
rather non-pruning, which is to be pre- then to be lighted, keeping the tem-
ferred. The fig, observes Mr. Loudon, perature at 50°, and syringing morning
*' bears, and in warmer climates brings and evening with tepid water. Air is
to maturity in every year, two succes- to be given plentifully in fine weather,
sive and distinct crops of fruit, each and when the fruit begins to grow, the
crop being produced on a distinct set temperature raised to 5o^, then to 60^,
of shoots. The shoots formed by the and so on progressively about the same
first or spring sap put forth figs at every as for vines. For the first six or seven
eye as soon as the sap begins to flow weeks water only in such quantities to
again in .)uly and August. These figs keep the soil moderately moist, but

(which fi)rm the second crop of the
year) ripen, in their native climate.

afterwards more freely.

" When the fruit is about half grown,

during the course of the autumn ; but commence watering freely every morn-
rarely if ever come to perfection in ing, and generally about twice a week,
England ; where, though they cover with liquid manure. As soon as the
the branches in great abundance at the young shoots have attained the length
end of that season, they perish and fall , of four or five inches, their points are
off w-ith the first severe frosts of winter, to be pinched out; this shoot is the
The shoots formed by the second flow < second crop wood' for the latter part
of sap, commonly called midsummer of summer or autumn, according as the
shoots, put forth figs in like manner at forcing was commenced early or late,
every eye, but not until the first flow of During the growth of the second crop
sap in the following spring. These last of fruit, the tree produces a second
mentioned figs, which form the first shoot from three to six inches long,

crop of each year, ripen in warmer
climates during the months of June and
July, but not in this country before
September or October." — Enc. Gard

which, w-hen properly ripened, contains
the crop in the embryo state through
the winter for the following spring. A
short time before the first crop of fruit

Fig-House. — If a hot-house be de- is ripe, the watering overhead is dis-
voted to this fruit, as it well deserves, continued and abundance of air given,
good proportions, according to Mr. As soon as practicable, the watering
Markham, arc " thirty-three feet long, overhead is to be resumed in every part
fourteen feet wide, and eleven feet of the house where the fruit is not ap-
high at the back, trellised with wire proaching maturity. The succession of
two inches from the wall. The trees fruit generally lasts about four months,
on this wall to be fan-trained ; the roots , " The winter management is merely
walled in as recommended for the open to keep the borders moderately dry,
wall, excepting that the spaces are to and to prevent frost from entering." —
be narrower, being two feet wide and Gard. Chron.

two and a half deep ; the patli leading Forcing in Pots. — " For this pur-
thro'ugh the house to rest on this parti- pose," says Mr. Markham," the plants
tion wall. Between this path and the should be examined as early in the au-
front, may be a border for small stand- tumn or winter as possible, and those
ards and circular-trained trees, ranging plants that have got their roots much
from three to five feet high, all walled matted together should have them re-
in with rough stones, for the same pur- duced, and potted in sweet maiden
pose as already stated. The sorts may loam, ready for the spring-forcing in
be the Nerii ; Brown Ischia ; large January or February, as they may be
White Genoa ; and Kennedy's Fig, but wanted. The pots should be plunged
the greater part the Nerii. Prune in in a half-spent tan or leaf bed, either in
15

FIL

226

FIL

a pit or forcing-house. If neither of
these can be had, prepare a small bed
of leaves and manure, and place a deep
frame over it, plunging the plants to

varieties distinct; and this is a very
easy and expeditious method of propa-
gation ; for every twig layed will readily
ffrow : therefore, in autumn or winter,

such a depth as to enable the roots to i let some of the lower branches that are
have S'' or 10'' more heat than the tops. ! well furnished with young shoots be
By doing this the roots are put in action | pegged down in the ground ; then lay
first, which causes the embryo fruit to | all the young shoots in the earth, with
come forth in such a strong healthy j their tops out, every one of which will
manner as will ensure a good crop. 1 root, advance in length, and be fit to
After the fruit is fairly shown, the plants ] transplant by autumn following, when
may then be removed to any forcing- i they should be separated, and planted
house where they can have plenty of j in nursery rows, two feet asunder, and
light and air. If they can be plunged I trained as observed of the seedlings;
in gentle heat, so much the better. It ' but when any considerable quantity are
should always be borne in mind that ! to be raised this way, it is eligible to
the fig, in its growing state, is almost j form stools for that purpose, by pre-

an aquatic, therefore little danger is to
be apprehended from over-watering,
but serious mischief may arise from not
attending to this ; for if ever the soil
gets thoroughly dry when the fruit is
far advanced, some evil will be sure to
result." — Gard. Chron.

The Temperature borne by the fig ad-
vantageously is very high. Even when
ranging from 90" to 110° during the
day, and never lower at night than 70°,
though some varieties grow too lux-
uriantly, yet the Large White ripened
both its spring and autumn produce,
and Mr. Knight thus obtained from the
same plants eight crops in twelve
months.

FILBERT. Corylus avellana.

Varieties. — Frizzled, great bearer.
Red (C. tuhulosa), pellicle of kernel
pink, flavour excellent. White, pellicle
white, flavour good. Cosford, great
bearer, good ; shell very thin. Down-
ton, large, square. Cob Nut.

Propagation. — This is done by plant-
ing the nuts, by layers, suckers from
the root; and by grafting and budding.

By the Nuts. — This should be done in

viousiy, a year before, heading-down
some trees near the ground, to throw
out a quantity of shoots near the earth,
convenient for laying for that use an-
nually.

Suckers arising from the roots of
trees raise by either of the above me-
thods, if taken up in autumn, winter, or
spring, with good fibres, will also grow,
form proper plants, and produce the
same sort of fruit as their parent plant ;
and suckers of these may also be used
for the same purpose.

By grafting and budding. — These
methods have also the same effect as
layers of continuing any particular va-
riety with certainty, and the operation
is to be perfornied in the usual way on
stocks of any of the varieties of this ge-
n u s . — (Abercrombie.)

" The season for planting is autumn
or spring; or any interval in mild wea-
ther from October till the beginning of
March. Allot detached standards not
less than ten and thence to twenty feet
distance, to have room to branch out in
full heads." — Loudon, Enc. Gard.

Soil. — "A hard loam of some depth.

October; but if postponed until spring, | on a dry subsoil, which dress every

preserve the nuts in sand, and in Feb^
ruary plant them in drills near two
inches deep. The plants will appear
in six or eight weeks, which, v/hen a
year old, plant out in nursery-rows, and
there train them two or three years. In

year ; as the filbert requires a consider-
able quantity of manure." — Loudon^
Enc. Gard.

Pruning and Culture. — Mr. R. Scott
says, "The plants should be trained
with single stems to the height of a foot

raising these trees from the nut, the j or so ; then permitted to branch into a
sorts are not to be always depended | symmetrical head, rather open in the
on, for, like other seedling trees, they middle, and not of greater height than

often vary, so that the most certain
method to continue the respective sorts
is by layers.

By Layers is one of the most certain
methods of continuing the respective

a man can conveniently reach from the
ground, to perform the necessary opera-
tions of pruning and gathering.

" The proper time for pruning is in
the spring, when the male blossoms are

FIN

227

FLO

open, as then the shaking of the trees,
by the act of pruning, assists in the dif-
fusion of the pollen. The young shoots
should be shortened to about half their
length ; and it is best to cut to a bud
that shows a female blossom. All
suckers should be carefully removed.
Formerly it was the practice to train
tlie branches to nearly a horizontal po-
sition, which may still be seen in many
old plantations; but experience has
shown that the trees produce equally
well, and as good nuts, by allowing
them to take a more natural form. By
way of manuring, some cultivators
throw off the surface soil two or three
feet wide round the stem of the tree,
and into this basin the small prunings,
leaves, &c., are put and dug in." — ■
Card. Chron.

Preserving. — " The easiest and best
method is to gather them when quite dry,
and stow them away in large garden pots,
or other earthen vessels, sprinkling a
little salt amongst them throughout
the whole mass, which preserves the
husks from getting mouldy and rotten ;
the pots should then be turned bottom
upwards on boards, and buried in the
ground, or kept air-tight by some other
means. Stoneware jars, with lids, might
be advantageously used for this pur-
pose, and nuts of any kind will keep a
long time in this way." — Gard. Chron.

Insects. See Curculio and Aphis.

FINOCHIO or AZOREAN FENNP:L
(Anethum azoricum), does not usually
succeed in this country. Neither is it
in much esteem here, being agreeable
to few palates. It is served with a
dressing like salads.

Soil and Situation. — For the first crop
a rich light soil on a moderate hot-bed
must be selected; for the succeeding
sowings a more retentive one, but for
the last two a return must be had to a
drier and a warmer situation. A small
bed will be required only at each
sowing; one twenty feet by four is suf-
ficient for the largest family.

Time and Mode of Sowing. — From the
beginning of March until the close of
July, at intervals of a month, for
after attaining its full growth, it im-
mediately advances for seed. The seed
is sown in drills two feet asunder, to
remain; scattered thinly, that is, about
two inches apart, and about half an inch
below the surface. The first sowings
must be in a slight hot-bed, and under

a frame. The seedlings must be small-
hoed, to kill the weeds, from which they
should be kept completely clear through-
out their growth; but at first only thin
to three or four inches asunder, as it
cannot thus early be determined which
will be the most vigorous plants. After
the lapse of another month they may be
finally thinned to seven or eight inches
distance from each other. Moderate
waterings are required throughout their
growth during dry weather; and in the
meridian of hot days the beds are ad-
vantageously shaded, until after the
plants are well up. When of advanced
growth, about ten weeks after coming
up, the stems must be earthed up to the
height of five or six inches, tn blanch
for use, which will be effected in ten or
fourteen days. In the whole about
twelve or fourteen weeks elapse be-
tween the time of sowing and their be-
ing fit for use. In autumn, if frosty
mornings occur, they should have the
protection of some litter or other light
covering.

To obtain Seed. — The seed coming
from Italy is generally worthless, and
in this country it is saved with difficulty,
the plants of the last sowings, if left,
being killed by the winter; and if some
of the earliest are allowed to remain,
they never ripen until late in the year,
and are often killed by early severe
frosts.

FIR. See Pinus and Coniferee.

FISH. See Animal Matters.

FLACOURTIA. Eight species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

FLAKE, is the term by which a car-
nation is distinguished that has two
colours only, and these extending
through the petals.

j FLAX-STAR. Phormium Linum-
stellatum.

FLORISTS' FLOWERS are those
which, by their beauty or fragrance,
power to produce permanent varieties,
and facility of cultivation, are so largely
in demand as to render them especially
worthy of cultivation as an article of
commerce.

j Mr. Glenny has justly enumerated the
necessary characteristics of a florist's
flower to be — 1st. The power to be
perpetuated and increased by slips and
other modes independent of its seed.
2dly, the power to produce new varie-
1 ties from seed, capable, like their parent,

FLO

228

FLO

of being perpetuated ; and 3dly, it must ^ suit any flowers. The most intractable

possess sufficient interest and variety
to be grown in collections.

At present the chief florists' flowers
are the Amaryllis, Anagallis, Anemone,
Auricula, Calceolaria, Carnation, Chrys-
anthemum, Cineraria, Crocus, Dahlia,
Fritillary, Fuchsia, Gladiolus, Hyacinth,
liydrangea, Ixia, Iris, Lily, Lobelia,
Narcissus, Pansy, PoBony, Pelargonium,
Petunia, Phlox, Pink, Polyanthus, Ra-
nunculus, Tulip, Tuberose, Verbena.
In the United States Florists' flowers
.are, as such, unknown. We have many

are clay and gravel. The first is forever
sodden with wet, or baked hard; and
the latter is hungry, and burnt up in
summer.

Arrangement. — Mr. Loudon says, —
"Shelter is equally requisite for the
flower as for the kitchen garden, and
where naturally wanting, is to be pro-
duced by the same means, viz., plant-
ing. The plantations, except on the
north, or very exposed points, should
not be of the tallest kinds of trees.
A few elegant shrubs, and one or two

amateurs, but not in sufficient number i trees, may be scattered through the
to create the emulation which exists in j scene, either in the dug compartments.

Great Britain, where thousands riva
oach other in the culture of flowers of
their peculiar fancy — not for profit, but
enjoyment and relaxation from the toil
of the work-shop, or the mine.

FLOWER. See Bloom.

FLOWER FENCE. Poinciana.

FLOWERING ASH. Ornus.

FLOWER OF JOVE. Lychnis flos
Jovis.

FLOWER GARDEN, is that portion
of the ground in the vicinity of the

or in the turf glade, for the purpose of
shelter and shade as well as ornament;
but in general, much of either of the
two former qualities are highly injuri-
ous, both to the culture of flowers and
the thick closeness of turf; sometimes
an evergreen hedge will produce all the
shelter requisite, as in small gardens
composed of earth and gravel only ; but
where the scene is large and composed
of dug compartments, placed on lawn,
the whole may be surrounded by an

residence, disposed in parterres and i irregular border of flowers, shrubbery,
borders, tenanted by flowers and flower- and trees." — Enc. Gard.
ing shrubs, and among walks and lawns, I All this is excellent, and Twill only
so that the occupiers of the house may add these general additional rules: —
have ready access to what is so beau- | always plant in masses, and with due
tiful in form, colour, and fragrance. ^ attention to the harmony and contrast
Under the title Pleasure Ground, the
portions of ornamented garden more
distant from the house are considered.

of colours and forms.
Fig. 45.

Aspect. — The flower garden should
encompass every side of the house upon
which a window opens that is frequent-
ed by the master or his friends, whether
Jn parlour or bed-room. The aspect of
the flower garden, therefore, must vary;
but that which is best, because most FLOWER GATHERER (Fig. 45),
favourable to flowers, is the south, is a pair of scissors and pincers com-
south-eastern, and south-western sides |bined; they are of great advantage in
of the residence; and it is usual to ar- : gathering roses and other flowers which
range it so that the kitchen garden is im- : have thorny stems, as the flower cut by
mediately beyond it. Variety of aspect the scissors, is held fiist by the part that
secures a succession of flowering in the ' acts as pincers. — Rural Reg.
same kinds. No directions can be given i FLOWER POTS are of various sizes
as to the appropriate size, for, if the : and names: —

proprietor delights in flowers, there is' In. diam. In. Lindley
no reason why his parterres should not at top. deep,
be large, though his villa be small. A , Thumb pots ) 2^ .... 2^ Thumbs,
very common proportion for a small [ are, inside • 5 " " jn.

cottage is, the flower garden being one- Sixties (60s) ^ g . . . . 3i 3

fourth the size of the kitchen garden

Soil. — Any fertile light soil is pro-
pitious, for this can be altered easily to

to the cast
Forty-eights
(4Ss)

FLO

229

FLO

Thirty-twos )
(32s) ]

Twenty-fours )
(24s) ^

Sixteens (16s) .

Twelves (12s) .

Eights (8s) . . .

Sixes (6s) . . .

Fours (4s) . . .

Twos (2s)

6

81
91

lU
12
13
15

IS

, 9
, 10
11
12
13
14

6

8

9
II
12
13
15
18

Dr. Lindley has proposed a very
judicious change in the nomenclature
of flower pots, by suggesting that they
should be called according to their great-

It was formerly considered important
to have the pots made of a material as
porous as possible; but a more misera-
ble delusion never was handed down
untested from one generation to an-
other. Stoneware and chinaware are
infinitely preferable, for they keep the
roots more uniformly moist and warm.
Common garden pots if not plunged,
should be thickly painted. Mr. W. P.
Ayres recommends large pots to be
employed, and there is no doubt that
this is a system much abridging the
gardener's labour; but as with due care

est diameter. At present the words small pots will produce magnificent
"Fours," " Sixes," &c., intend no more specimen plants, I cannot recommend
than that there are so many to the cast, an adoption of large pots, ensuring as
a piece of information conveying nothing they do such an immense sacrifice of
worth knowing: — butby the newnomen- room in the hot and green-houses. Cap-
clature, " Eighteens," will be pots of tain ThurtcU, the most successful of
eighteen inches in diameter; " Fif- ' growers of the Pelargonium, never
teens," fifteen inches, and so on; it employs pots larger than twenty-fours,
occupies the third column in the pre- It is usual to have saucers in which
ceding table. to place flower pots when in the house.

The above are about the sizes in and so far as preventing stains and the
inches, for at each pottery they rather i occurrence of dirt, they are deserving
differ in size, and none of the pots adoption; but as to their being used for
shrink exactly alike during the burning. ! applying water to plants, they are worse

At some of the country potteries, , than useless. The great difficulty in
also, the gradation and size are some- | pot-cultivation is to keep tlie drainage
what different. Thus, at Mr. Paul's regular, and no more effective pre-
Pottery, near Fareham, Hants, the sizes I ventive of this could be devised than

are the following:

In. diam.
at top.

In.
deep.

Thimbles are, inside . 2

Thumbs 2^

Seventy-twos 3

Sixties 3i

Forty-eights 4^

Thirty-twos 5

Twenty-fours .... 6

Sixteens 7i

Twelves 8

Eights 10

Sixes Hi

Fours 14

Twos 16

Thimbles are sometimes called "small
nineties," and thumbs,
ties."

Fig. 46.

keeping a pot in a saucer containinj
water. No plan could be invented
more contrary to nature ; for we all
know that she supplies moisture to the
surface of the soil, and allows it to
descend, thus supplying thetipper roots
first. To facilitate draining, and yet
to retain the tidi-
ness secured by the
saucer, Mr. Hunt has
had flowerpots made
with elevations, on
which the pots are
placed. (Fig. 46.)
But this is not the
only advantage de-
rivable from them.
' large nine- They prevent the
entry of worms, may

3

3i

4

5

6

7

8

9
11
12}
14
15

The Philadelphia potters have long ' be employed with
pursued the plan proposed by Dr. Lind- common stands, allow a current of air
ley, and those at distant points who may to pass beneath them, and their form is
desire to order, have only to express the elegant,
size in inches, i. e., the diameter at top. 1 Mr. Brown (Fig. 47) has proposed a

The form and material also vary. ' pot with hollow sides, the vacuity to
Mr. Beck makes them very successful- be filled with water through a hole in
ly of slate; and the prejudice against the rim, or left empty, as occasion re-
glazed pots is now exploded. quires. The water, he considers, will

FLO

230

FLO

prevent the plants suffering from want
of moisture ; and
Fig. 47. when empty, the

roots will be pre-
served from being
killed by evapora-
tion. But surely
applying the water
to the sides will be
an extra induce-
ment for the roots
to gather there, an effect most de-
sirable to avoid, and wetting the outsides
of the pot is a very doubtful mode of
preventing the reduction of tempera-
ture.

tor of the Plymouth Fig. 50.

Nursery, proposed
to improve the drain-
age of pots, by ele-
vating and piercing
their bottoms. This,
and Mr. Brown's,
suggested to me that
of which Fig. 50 is
a section.

It is merely two pots, one fitting
within another, having its bottom in-
dented and pierced as proposed by
Mr. Rendle, but not touching the outer
pot by half an inch all round. This
is a most effectual form to secure drain-
age, and to prevent the evaporation from
the sides of the inner pot, the interven-
ing stratum of confined air being a bad
conductor of heat. It has the merit
too of cheapness. — JohnsoWs Gardener''s

FLOWER STAGES are made for the
exhibition of flowers at shows, in the
green-house, and elsewhere. The fol-
lowing are some very judicious obser-
vations on the subject: — "The first
object in the construction of stages
should be to have them so constructed
and situated as to afford facilities for
grouping plants ; the second should be
to give plants more the appearance of
growing in borders, than upon artificial
structures; and the third to keep the
pot out of sight. This is requisite for
two reasons; first, because they are no
ornament, and secondly, that it is always
desirable to protect the plant from being
scorched by exposure to the sun. It is
also desirable to adopt another mode of
construction, for the purpose of giving
plants that aspect which is most suited
to their habits; and therefore, instead of
placing the stages from the front to the
back of the house, as is generally the
case, I would place them in groups of
stages, thus producing an effect similar
to the borders in a well-arranged flower
garden.

"The spectators in their progress
where it is most from group to group would be attracted
wanted, and to pro- by the separate display in each, instead
tect it at the same : of having their attention drawn away by
time from slugs and a whole blaze of beauty at once,
other creeping in-! "The accompanying drawings (Fig.
sects, which will not 51) represent the manner in which I

Saul's Fountain
Fig. 48. Flower Pot (Fig.

4S), seems open
to the same objec-
tions, with the ad-
ditional disadvan-
tages of not being
easily drained, and
being more ex-
pensive and cum-
bersome. The water also is forced in at
the bottom of the pot, contrary to the
course of nature in applying moisture to
plants. " An outer basin is made on the
bottom of the pot, to which the water
enters at a, and is carried round the pot in
the basin, there being two or three holes
through tlie pot's bottom bbb. By these
means the water is drawn up from the
basin by the roots of the plants (!) or,
if it should be desirable to prevent it
from being drawn up, the exterior ori-
fices of the holes, which open into the
basin or saucer, may be closed (!) The
fountain is supplied with water by taking
out the stopper c, the entrance into the
basin at a, being at that moment closed ;
and as soon as the water runs over at c,
the cork or stopper is put in, and the
stopper at a removed." — Card. Mag.
March, 1843, 136.

Mr. Stephens' Flower Pot (Fig. 49)

is intended to supply

Fig. 49. water to the plant

pass over the water
between the two
rims. — Ibid.

Mr. Rendle, the intelligent proprie-

propose that such stages as have been
described should be constructed and
placed in any floricultural building. The
ground plan represents part of the floor

FLO

231

FLO

Fig. 51.

O 1 2 3 4- s e^

s^^

of a house, nineteen feet by thirteen, on
which are placed twelve stages, and
three vases, (D D D) basins, or any other
suitable ornamental article, with a gang-
way betwixt them three feet wide.

"The plan also shows sections of
three different modes of constructing
the stages, and the position of the pots
in each; all the stages stand upon stone
tables, resting upon brick piers, the top
of each table being two feet two inches
above the level of the floor. i

" In the stage (A) there are no
shelves, the pots being plunged into
cylinders (made of the same material as
flower pots) standing upon the tables,
as shown by the dotted lines; the space
all round them being filled with compost
level with the rim of each series of pots.
The object of this plan is to afford op-
portunities of planting various creepers
round each of the potted plants, for
which there will be plenty of room
when they stand twelve inches apart
from stem to stem. The pots are sup-

posed to rest by their rims upon the
edge of the cylinder, and may of course
be removed with the greatest facility.

"In the centre stage (B), the sup-
porters stand directly upon the table,
and are connected to it, the space be-
tween each being made water-tight, and
filled up solid to within half an inch of
the bottom of the pot. If an inch deep
of water is poured in this space, the
pot will be immersed half an inch; a
small hole in the side will regulate the
height of the water line, and another in
the bottom will draw off the water
when it requires changing. This mode
of construction may be adopted for
such plants as need large supplies of
water.

" The stage (C) is supposed to have
shelves pierced with holes to receive
the pots, which rest upon their rims.
The stages in my little green-house are
so fitted up, and have been by many
practical men, who prefer this plan of
plunging the pots into the stages to the

FLU

232

FOR

old one ofsetting them upon the shelves. I can compare with either the pipe or
The fronts of the stone tables may be i tank system of hot water heating. When
variously ornamented, those in one ! flues are employed they are constructed
house having trellised panels, another inside and near the walls of the build-
having rusticated courses of brick or ing; each flue eight or nine inches wide
stone, while a third may be in imitation in the clear, by two or three bricks on
of rustic basket-work, and a fourth in edge deep, ranged horizontally one over
rough courses like small rockeries, with ; the other the whole length of the back
spaces between for creepers, orchida- ; wall, in three or four returns cotnniuni-
ceous, or any other plants best suited to | eating with each other, continued also
the purpose. j along the end and front walls in one or

<' The dotted lines under the stage two ranges, to be used occasionally;
(B) will give some idea how this may be furnished with a regulator to slide open
done; various other modes of ornament- ' and shut as required, the whole pro-
ing may be adopted according to the ceeding from the first lowermost flue,
particular taste of the individual. The ' which communicates immediately from
vases, &c. (D D D) may be filled with ; the furnace or fire-place behind either
climbers for the open space against the i the back wall at one end, or in the back
sides of the house, and with creepers part of the end walls; or if very long
to hang over the edges. The flower stoves, of more than forty feet length,
pots intended to be used in such stages ' two fire-places are requisite, one at each
as have been described, should be , end ; each having its set of flues ranging
gauged before the plants are put into halfway; each set of flues terminating
them, and all those rejected which do in an upright chimney at the end of the
not fit the holes; the waste ones will , back outside. — Hood on Warming, S,-c.

answer for propagating, &c." — Gard.
Chron.
Mr. Ainger, also, makes these good

Morris, Tasker and Morris of the
Pascal Works near Philadelphia, have
paid considerable attention to the con-

suggestions : — " Stages are frequently I struction of heating apparatus, whether
formed of an equal or nearly equal I for air or water. Those who desire
series of ascents, in consequence of* such structures for green-houses, con-
which the upper plants are by no means ! servatories, &c.,may safely rely on their
so well seen as the lov/er ones. The | experience and probity,
proper plan is to commence by small , FLY. See Black Fly.
elevations, gradually increasing as the j FLY-WORT. Myanthus.
shelves recede from the eye. The ! FtETIDA mauritiana. Stove ever-
lowest shelf to be eighteen inches from j green tree. Cuttings. Turfy loam and
the floor, the first rise is six inches, the ' peat.

next nine, twelve, fifteen, eighteen,! YO'iiTX.^'&^lKphillyraoides. Half-
iwenty-one, and so on. The upper | hardy deciduous shrub. Layers and
shelves should also be broader than the , cuttings. Common soil,
lower for larger pots. The advantage' FORCING is compelling culinary ve-
of this arrangement as commanding a I getables to be edible, flowers to bloom,
belter view of the flowers is too obvious ' and fruits to ripen, at unnatural seasons,
to need pointing out." — Gard. Chron. ] being the very contrary of the object for
FLUES are pipes formed of brick or i which our green-houses and hot-houses
slate, for conducting heated air through ! are constructed ; viz., to secure a tern-
stoves or other buildings where a high perature in which their tenants will be
artificial teinperature is desired. It is a in perfection at their natural seasons,
mode of heating nearly banished by the Under the heads of Hot-beds and of each
much more manageable and eftectuaT particular plant will be found directions
modes of heating by hot water; and j for forcing, and it will be sufficient here
flues have the additional disadvantages, ' to coincide with Dr. Lindley in saying,
that they require frequent sweeping, i that as forced flowers are always less
and that they emit a sulphurous fume , beautiful and less fragrant; and forced
that is injurious to plants and disagree- ' vegetables and fruits less palatable and
able to the frequenters of the structures i less nutritious than those perfected at
80 heated. This has been obviated by I their natural periods — it is desirable, at
using Valencia slates in the place ofj the very least, to devote as much effort
bricks, yet flues under no circumstances ! and expense to obtain superior produce

i

FOR

233

FOU

at accustomed times, as to the procuring of the tines tearing them asunder."—
it unseasonably. Rarity is good, but Card. Chron.
excellence is best. FORMICA. See Ant.

FORE-RIGHT SHOOTS are the FOTHEROILLA. Four species,
shoots which are emitted directly in Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers and
front of branches trained against a wall, seed. Peat.

and consequently cannot be trained in This genus derives its name from John
without an acute bending, which is al- Fothergill, an eminent physician, born
■ways in some degree injurious. in Yorkshire in 1712. In 1762 he pur-

FORK. This instrument is prefera- chased an estate at Upton, and there
ble to the spade, even for digging over founded an excellent botanic garden,
open compartments, for the soil can be ; FOUNTAINS surprise by their novel-
reversed with it as easily as with the ty, and the surprise is proportioned to
spade; the labour is diminished, and the height to which they throw the wa-
the pulverization of the soil is more ef- ter; but these perpendicular columns
fectual. (See Digghig.) For stirring of water have no pretence to beauty,
the soil in plantations, shrubberies, and j The Emperor fountain at Chatsworth is
fruit borders, a two-pronged fork is the most surprising in the world, for it
often employed, but that with three j tosses its waters to a height of two hun-
prongs is quite as unobjectionable, and ! dred and sixty-seven feet, impelled by a
a multiplicity of tools is an expensive j fall from a reservoir three hundred and
f<il!y. Dr. Yelloly's fork is certainly a eighty-one feet above the ajutage, or
good working implement. Its entire mouth of the pipe from which it rushes

into the air.

For an interesting description of this
es; its diameter" one and a half inch; ' fountain and the grounds at Chatsworth,
width of the entire prongs seven inches the seat of the Duke of Devonshire, see

Downing's " Horticulturist."

The following are a few of the most

length, three feet three and a half inch-
es; handle's length, two feet two inch-

at the top ; width at the points six inch-
es; prongs thirteen and a half inches
long, and at the top seven-eighths of an powerful fountains in Europe : —

inch square, tapering to a point. The
straps fixing t!ie head to the handle are
eleven inches long, two inches wide,
and half an inch thick, feathering off;
weight of fork, eight pounds.

Leaf-fork. Mr. Toward, of Bagshot
Park, describes a very serviceable im-
plement of this kind; he says — "One
person with this implement will take up
with greater facility more leaves than
two persons could do with any other
tool. It is simply a large four-tined
fork, made of wood, shod with iron;
the tines are eighteen inches long, and
are morticed into a head about seven-
teen inches long, and one and a half'
inch by two and a quarter inches thick.
The tines are one inch in width, and one
and a half inch in depth at the head, gra-
dually tapering to a point with a curve or

Feet.
The Emperor at Chatsworth, ) 257

height of jet .... J
Wilhemhoihe Fountain in )

190

Hesse Cassel . .
Fountain, St. Cloud . . .' 160
Peterhoff, Russia .... 120
The old Chatsworth ... 94

Versailles 90

Mr. Paxton has stated that, " What-
ever be the direction of the jet, the dis-
charge of water is always the same,
provided that the altitude of the reser-
voir be the same. This is a necessary
consequence of the equal pressure of
fluids, in all directions. Water spout-
ing from small ajutage has sufficient
velocity to carry it to the same height
as the water in the reservoir; but it
never attains entirely this height, being

bend upwards. The wood of which they prevented by various concurring causes

are formed ought to be hard and tough
either oak or ash will do, but theRobi-

1st. Friction in the tubes. 2d. Friction
against the circumference of the apcr-

nia Psuedo- Acacia is preferable to ei- | tiire. 3d. The resistance of the air, its
thcr. The head should be made of ash, weight obstructing the rising column."
with a handle of the same, and should — Gard. Chron
be two feet four inches long. Its re-

Mr. Loudon justly observes, that it
not easy to lay down data on this

, „ _^_„ .jad; if the bore of the ajutage be too

it as on a common fork, the large size ' small, the rising stream will want sulfi-

commendations are its size and light- ' is not easy to lay down data on this
ness, the leaves also do not hang upon j head ; if the bore of the ajutage be too

FOX

234

FRA

cient weight and power to divide the
air, and so being dashed against it, will
fall down in vapour or mist. If too
large it will not rise at all. The length
of pipe between the reservoir and the
jet will also impede its rising in a slight
degree, by the friction of the water on
the pipe. This is estimated at one foot
for every hundred yards from the reser-
voir. The proportion which this author
gives to the ajutages, relatively to the
conducting-pipes, is one-fourth ; and
thus for a jet of four lines, a conduct-
ing-pipe of an inch and a half diameter ;
for a jet of six or seven lines, a con-
ducting-pipe of two inches, and so on.
From these data, the height of the foun-
tain and the diameter of the conducting-
pipe being given, the height to which a
jet can be forced can be estimated with
tolerable accuracy, and the contrary.
But where the pipes are already laid,
and the power of the head, owing to
intervening obstructions, is not very
accurately known, the method by trial
and correction by means of a leaden
nozzle, the orifice of which may be
readily increased or diminished, will
lead to the exact power under all the
circumstances.

Ajutages. — " Some are contrived so
as to throw up the water in the form of
sheaves, fans, showers, to support balls,
&c. Others to throw it out horizontally,
or in curved lines, according to the
taste of the designer; but the most
usual form is a simple opening to throw
the spout or jet upright. The grandest
jet of any is a perpendicular column is-
suing from a rocky base, on which the
water falling produces a double effect
both of sound and visual display. A
jet rising from a naked tube in the mid-
dle of a basin or canal, and the waters
falling on its smooth surface, is unna-
tural without being artificially grand."
— Gard. Enc.

Drooping fountains, or such as bub-
bling from their source trickle over the
edge of rocks, shells, or vases, combin-
ing the cascade with the fountain, are
capable of much greater beauty.

FOXGLOVE. Digitalis.

FRACTURES. If an immaterial
branch is broken, it is best to remove
it entirely, but it sometimes happens
that a stem or branch which cannot be
replaced, is thus injured, in which case

and the stem or branch but small, the
parts will again unite by being put back
into their natural position, and well
propped up. Especially the cure may
be expected not to succeed if the frac-
ture is accompanied with contusion, or
if the stem or branch is large. And
even where it succeeds, the woody
fibres do not contribute to the union;
but the granular and herbaceous sub-
stance only which exudes from be-
tween the wood and liber, insinuating
itself into all interstices, and finally
becoming indurated in the wood. —
Keith.

Splints extending at least a foot above
and below the fracture, should be bound
very firmly all round, and a plaster of
grafting-clay to exclude wet be placed
over all ; and every precaution adopted
to prevent the surfaces of the wound
being moved by the force of the wind.

FRAGARIA. Fourteen species.
Hardy herbaceous. Seeds and runners.
Common soil. See Strawberry.

FRAMES are structures employed
either in forcing, or in protecting plants,
and are of various sizes.

According to the good practical rules
of Abercrombie : — " The one-light
frame maybe about four feet and a half
in width from back to front, and three
feet six inches the other way; fifteen
or eighteen inches high in the back,
and nine in front, with a glass sash or
light made to fit the top completely, to
slide up and down, and move away oc-
casionally.

" The two-light frame may be seven
feet long, four and a half wide, and
fifteen or eighteen inches high in the
back, with bars reaching from it at top
to the front, serving both to strengthen
the frame and help to support the lights ;
the two lights to be each three feet six
inches wide, made to fit the top of the
frame exactly.

" The three-light frames should be
ten feet six inches long, four and a half
wide, and from eighteen inches to two
feet high in the back, and from nine to
twelve or fifteen inches in front — ob-
serving that those designed principally
for the culture of melons, may be rather
deeper than for cucumbers, because
they generally require a greater depth
of mould or earth on the beds; though
frames, eighteen or twenty inches in

it is advisable to attempt a reduction of the back, and from nine to twelve in
the fracture ; and if it be only partial, ' front, are often made to serve occasion-

F R A

235

FR A

ally, both for cucumbers and melons; middle to conduct off all wet falling
each frame to have two cross bars, I between the lights. At the end of each
ranging from the top of the back to , frame, at top, should be a thin slip of
that of the front, at three feet six inches board, four inches broad, up to the out-
distance, to strengthen the frame, and side of the lights, being necessary to
support the lights ; and the three lights guard against cutting winds rushing in
to be each three feet six inches wide ; at that part immediately upon the plants,
the whole together being made to fit when the lights are occasionally tilted

the top of the frame exactly, every way
in length and width.
» " Sometimes the above sort of frames
are made of larger dimensions than be-
fore specified ; but in respect to this it
should be observed that if larger they

behind for the necessary admission of
fresh air, &c.

" With respect to the lights, the
wood-work of the frame should be inch
and a half thick and two and a half
broad ; and the bars, for the immediate

are very inconvenient to move to differ- : support of the glass-work, should be
ent parts where they may be occasion- about an inch broad, and not more than
ally wanted, and require more heat to , inch and a half thick : for if too broad
warm the internal air; and in respect and thick, they would intercept the
to depth particularly, that if they are \ rays of the sun, so should be only just
but just deep enough to contain a due : sufficient to support the lights and be
depth of mould, and for the plants to i ranged from the back part to the front.

have moderate room to grow, they will
be better than if deeper, as the plants
will be then always near the glasses —
which is an essential consideration in
early work — and the internal air will
be more effectually supported in a due

eight or nine inches asunder.

"All the wood-work, both of the
frames and lights, should be painted to
preserve them from decay. A lead
colour will be the most eligible; and
if done three times over, outside and

temperature of warmth. For the deeper i in, will preserve the wood exceedingly
the frame, the heat of the internal air from the injuries of weather, and from
will be less in proportion, and the plants ' the moisture of the earth and dung."

being far from the glasses will be some
disadvantage in their early growth. Be-
sides, a too deep frame, both in early
and late work, is apt to draw the plants
up weak; for they always naturally
aspire towards the glasses, and the
more space there is, the more they
will run up; for which reason the Lon-
don kitchen-gardeners have many of
their frames not more than fourteen or
fifteen inches high behind and seven in
front, especially those which are in-
tended to winter the more tender young
plants, such as cauliflower and lettuce,
and for raising early small' salad, herbs,
radishes, &c.

" The wood work of the back, ends,
and front should be of inch or inch
and a quarter deal, as before observed,
which should be all neatly planed even
and smooth on both sides; and the
joints, in framing them together, should
be so close that no wet nor air can en-
ter. The cross-bars or bearers at top,
for the support of the glasses, should
be about three inches broad and one
thick, and neatly dove-tailed in at back
and front even with both edges, that
the lights may shut down close, each
having a groove or channel along the

Mr. Knight has suggested an import-
ant improvement in the form of frames.
He observes, that the general practice
is to make the surface of the bed per-
fectly horizontal, and to give an incli-
nation to the glass. That side of the
frame which is to stand towards the
north is made nearly as deep again as
its opposite; so that if the mould is
placed of an equal depth (as it ought
to be) over the whole bed, the plants
are too far from the glass at one end of
the frame and too near at the other.
To remove this inconvenience, he
points out the mode of forming the bed
on an inclined plane; and the frame
formed with sides of equal depth, and
so put together as to continue per-
pendicular when on the bed, as repre-
sented in the accompanying sketch,
Fig. 52,

There are several minor points in the
construction of frames that deserve at-
tention. The strips of lead or wood
that sustain the panes of glass should
run across the frame, and not length-
wise ; they then neither obstruct so
much the entrance of light nor the pass-
ing off of rain. The inside of the frame
should be painted white, since planU

FRA

substitute for the green-house ; and on
this subject we have the following
statement of Mr. Crambe, of Redbraes,
near Edinburgh : —

" Being deficient in accommodation
for heaths and pelargoniums, Mr.
Crambe procured two melon-frames,
the dimensions of which were twenty
feet long by eight wide ; he then built
walls of a few courses of bricks, in-
closing an area of the exact size of the*
frames upon which they were placed.
The floor was elevated sis inches above
the ground, level and paved with
bricks laid in finely-sifted coal-ashes,

generally suffer in them for want of ^ ^^yj^g tj,e^rgyi(.eg l^gt^een them filled

light : if the accumulation of heat was
required, the colour should be'black.

Raising the Frames. — It is a well-
known difficulty that the gardener has,
in raising the frames so as to keep the
foliage of the plants within them at a
determined and constant distance from
the glass. To remedy this, Mr. Nairn,

with sand, which makes a better joint-
ing than lime, the close joints of which
leave no escape for the surplus water, —
placing the building in a longitudinal
direction from east to west. As a fire-
flue would have occupied more space
than could be spared, Mr. Rogers'
conical boiler was adopted. The

gardener to J. Creswell, Esq., of Bat- I bojjer is placed on the outside and is

tersea Priory, has introduced the inge
iiious contrivance represented in the ac
companying sketch and references : —
A, a movable frame ; b b, inside lining
of the pit ; c c, outer wall. Between
these the sides of the frame pass, and
are lowered or elevated by racks and
spindles, d d. Fig. 53.

Fig. 53.

inclosed in a case of double sheet-iron,
with a movable cover, and funnel of the
same material, for the conveyance of
smoke into a brick-chimney, the space
between the case and boiler being filled
with sand as an excellent non-conduc-
tor. At right angles to the end of the
pit is a brick-wall about three feet
high, inclosing the boiler on two sides,
leaving an open space in front for the
admission of air and the clearing away
of ashes. A movable wooden cover, of
a triangular form, is placed above, to
protect the whole from the effects of
the weather.

" The size of the boiler is eighteen
inches high by twelve in diameter at
the base, and is placed upon a cast-
iron grating, having a furnace-door be-
neath for the regulation of air. The
pipes, two inches and a half wide, are
conducted along the front and secured
to the wall with iron hooks, it being
A'morc simple plan might perhaps unnecessary to convey them round the
be adopted, by having frames of the back, as the apparatus is found suffi-
same length and breadth as the origi- cient to heat a space of double the size,
nal, but only from an inch to three | " For fuel he has uniformly found
inches, or upwards, deep. These, as coke to maintain a constant and regu-
necessary, might be put on the top, and lar heat : indeed this sort of boiler is
would be kept close by the pressure of not suited for the consumption of coal,
the lights; bolts and nuts might also ; although, by a little alteration of the
be easily applied, and the interstices i present form, it might be made to con-
rendered still more impervious to air i sume it as freely as coke. When the

by being faced with list.

external temperature was as low as

The frame may often be made a i 20", the internal heat of the pit did not

FR A

237

FRI

vary above 3° in fourteen hours, dur-
ing which time it required no atten-
tion, and tiie cost of the fuel did not
exceed twopence in twenty-four hours.
When slight storms occurred, a cover-
ing of Russia-mats was substituted in
lieu of fire-heat, which is always, to
a certain degree, injurious to green-
house plants, but more particularly so
to heaths, a class of plants which, when
cultivated in properly constructed pits,

Whitney's or Tanner's conipositiona;
or the gardener may employ the follow-
ing preparation : —

"Old pale linseed oil, three pints;
sugar of lead (acetate of lead), one
ounce; white resin, four ounces. Grind
the acetate with a little of the oil, then
add the rest and the resin. Incorpo-
rate thoroughly in a large iron pot over
a gentle fire ; and, with a large brush,
apply hot to a fine calico stretched

have a decidedly more healthy appear- , loosely previously, by means of tacks.

ance than those grown in green-
houses."— Card. Chron.

Shelter for the Glass. — In proportion
to the number of lights, matting for
shading and sheltering must be at hand.
The usual mode of covering at night is

upon the frame. On the following day
it is fit for use, and may be either done
over a second time, or tacked on tightly
to remain." — Gard. Chron.

The quantity made according to this
recipe will be sufficient for about 100

by laying on mats, and over these litter, ' square feet of calico. — Johnson's Gard

Almanack.

FRANCISCEA unijlora. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

FRANCOA. Three species. Hardy

thickness according to the severity
of the season. Some gardeners lay
hay immediately in contact with the
glass, and over this the mats. Every,

person conversant with these modes of > herbaceous. Seed. Common light soil
shelter is aware of their inconvenience. ! FRANKENIA. Nine species. Chief
In rainy weather they soon become ly hardy evergreen trailers. Cuttings
wet, and rapidly chill the beds ; added
to which, the trouble caused in placing
and removing them, and the danger to
the glass from the stones laid on as a

Loam and sandy peat.

FRANKINCENSE. Pinus tcoda.

FRAXINUS. The ash-tree. Forty-
one species. Hardy deciduous trees,
resislance to the wind, are by no means I Seed, or budding or grafting on the

inconsiderable

Mr. Seton, to obviate these incon-
veniences, employs a particular cover-
ing, which he constructs of four laths,
two of such a length as to exceed a
little that of the frame, and the others

common ash [F.eicelsio)).

FREE-STONE peaches and necta-
rines, the flesh of which p^rts readily
from the stone.

FRENCH BEAN. See Kidney Bean.

FRENCH MARIGOLD. Tagetes

in a similar manner that of its breadth. \ patula.

These are bound together at right
angles, so as to form a parallelogram
of the form and size of the frame ; and
pieces are bound across this at a foot
apart from each other. Over this a
mat is spread, and over the mat a layer
of straw is fastened, laid on level like
thatch, from three to six inches thic

FRIESIA peduncular is. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Turfy
loam and peat.

FRINGE TREE. Chionanthvs.

FRITILLARIA. Fritillary. Twenty-
three species, besides varieties. Hardy
bulbs. Offsets. Sandy soil.

' The season for planting or trans-

as may appear necessary. If the i planting all these bulbs is when their
breadth of the frame is, or exceeds, flower-stalks are decayed, in July or
four feet, it is best to have the covering ; beginning of August, though the bulbs^
in two parts, otherwise it becomes taken up at that time may be kept, if
weak and unwieldy. These panels, ! necessary, by being laid in dry sand ;
as they may be called, Mr. Seton also | but the fritillary {F. pyrenaica) and
employs in preserving tender plants [ Persian lily (F. Prrs/cfl) arc rather more
through the winter. A pit of frames, I impatient, out of the earth, than the
earthed up all round, and covered with I crown imperial (F. imperialis), and
one of them, or two or three if needful, j therefore should always be put in again

is completely impervious to frost.
Substitutes for glass. — Oiled paper

as soon as possible.

Propagation of all the species. — The

was formerly employed ; but this has general mode of propagation of all
been superseded by linen dressed with ! these plants is by offsets, which may he

FRI

238

FRU

separated every second or third year.
The proper time is when their flower-
etalks decay, taking the whole cluster
of roots out of the earth and separating
them into distinct roots, planting the
emaller offsets by themselves, in nurse-
ry-beds, to remain a year or two ; and
the larger roots plant where they are
designed to remain.

They are also propagated by seed to
gain new varieties. The process is
tedious. The fritillary and Persian lily
will be three years, and the crown im-
perial sometimes six or seven, before
they flower in perfection.

The seeds are to be sown in boxes
of light earth in August or September,

down to below 32o without freezing,
but it solidifies the moment it' is agi-
tated."— Principles of Gardening.

The seeds of some plants are bene-
fited by being frozen, for those of the
rose and the hawthorn never germinate
so freely as after being subjected to the
winter frosts.

Freezing is beneficial to soils, not
only by destroying vermin within its
bosom, but by aiding the atmosphere to
pervade its texture, which texture is
also rendered much more friable by
the frost. M. Schluber says that freez-
ing reduces the consistency of soils
most remarkably, and that in the case
of clays and other adhesive soils, the

covering them with earth a quarter of i diminution of their consistency amounts

an inch deep. — Ahercromhie.

FROST. If a plant be frozen, and
though some defy the attacks of frost,
others are very liable to its fatal influ-
ence, death is brought upon them as it

to at least 50 per cent. In hoeing clay
he found it reduced from sixty-nine to
forty-five of the scale already stated,
and in the ordinary arable soil from
thirty-three to twenty. He satisfactorily

is in the animal frame, by a complete j explains this phenomenon by observing

breaking down of their tissue ; their
vessels are ruptured, and putrefaction
supervenes with unusual rapidity.

The following contingencies render
a plant especially liable to be frozen.

" First. Moisture renders a plant
susceptible of cold. Every gardener
knows this. If the air of his green-
house be dry, the plants within may be

that the crystals of ice pervading the
entire substance of the frozen soil, ne-
cessarily separate the particles of earth,
rendering their points of contact fewer.
As soil in our climate is rarely frozen
to a depth of more than four inches,
and in extremely hard winters it does
not penetrate more than six inches in
light soils, and ten inches in those that

submitted to a temperature of 32^ with- i contain more clay, or an excess of
out injury, provided the return to a ' moisture, these facts, and the frequent
higher temperature be gradual. ' failure of our potato crops, have led Dr.

" Secondly. Gradual decrements of. Lindley to the very judicious suggestion
temperature are scarcely felt. A myr- j of planting these crops in autumn,
tie may be forced and subsequently [ which must be the best time if practica-
passed to the conservatory, to the cold- ' ble, for it is pursuing the dictate of na-
pit, and even thence to an open border, ture. That it is practicable, I have no
if in the south of England, without doubt, for no frost would injure the
enduring any injury from the cold of sets, if a little coal ashes were put over
winter; but it would be killed if passed them in each hole, for coal ashes are

at once from the hot-house to the
border.

Thirdly. The more saline are the

an excellent non-conductor of heat, and
consequently opposed to a low reduc-
tion of temperature. Even if potatoes

juices of a plant, the less liable are buried some inches beneath the soil's
they to congelation by frost. Salt pre- surface are frozen, they thaw so very
serves vegetables from injury by sudden I gradually, that no injury to themoc-
transitions in the temperature of the curs, unless the freezing has been suffi-
atmosphere. That salted soil freezes cient to burst their vessels, which
with more reluctance than before the ! occurs very rarely,
salt is applied, is well known, and that j FROTH-FLY. See Tettigonia.
crops of turnips, cabbages, cauliflowers, FRUIT ROOM. "Fruit for storing
&c., are similarly preserved is equally should be gathered before it is quite
well established. ', mature, for the ripening process, the

"Fourthly. Absence of motion en- ^ formation of sugar, with its attendant
ables plants to endure a lower degree exhalation of carbonic acid and water,
of temperature. Water may be cooled | goes on as well in the fruit room as in

FRU

239

FRU

the open air at the season when the i slight, therefore, are to be avoided;
functions of the leaves have ceased, and instead of putting fruit in heaps to
and the fruit no longer enlarges. In sweat, as it is ignorantly termed, but
gathering fruit, every care should be in fact to heat and promote decay, fruit
adopted to avoid bruising; and, to this should be placed one by one upon a
end, in the case of apples, pears, floor covered with dry sand, and the
quinces, and medlars, let the gathering
basket be lined throughout with sack-
ing, and let the contents of each basket
be carried at once to a floor covered
with sand, and taken out one by one,
not poured out, as is too usual, into a
basket, and then again from this into a
heap, for this systematic mode of in-
flicting small braises is sure to usher in
decay, inasmuch as that it bursts the
divisional membranes of the cells con-
taining the juice, and this being-extra'

day following, if the air be dry, be
wiped and stored away as before di-
rected. Fruit for storing should not
only be gathered during the middle
hours of a dry day, but after the oc-
curence of several such.

'•'Although the fruit is stored in sand,
it is not best for it to be kept there up
to the very time of using, for the pre-
sence of light and air is necessary for
the elaboration of saccharine matter.
A fortnight's consumption of each sort

vasated, speedily passes from the stage ! should be kept upon beach, birch, or
of spirituous fermentation to that of elm shelves, with a ledge all round, to
putref;iction. To avoid this is the prin- keep on them about half an inch in

cipal object of fruit storing, whilst at
the same time it is necessary that the
fruit shall be kept firm and juicy. Now
it so happens, that the means required
to secure the one also effects the other

depth of dry sand ; on this the fruit
rests softly, and the vacancy caused by
every day's consumption should be re-
placed from the boxes as it occurs. If
deal is employed for the shelving, it is

" To preserve the juiciness of the apt to impart a flavour of turpentine to
fruit, nothing more is required than a | the fruit. The store-room should have
low temperature, and the exclusion of a northern aspect, be on a second floor,
the atmospheric air. The best practical and have at least two windows, to pro-
mode of doing this is to pack the fruit ' mote ventilation in dry days. A stove
in boxes of perfectly dried pit-sand, in the room, or hot-water pipe with a
employing boxes or bins, and taking regulating cock, is almost essentialj for
care that no two apples or pears touch, heat will be required occasionally in
The sand should be thoroughly dried very cold and in damp weather; the
by fire-heat, and over the uppermost windows should have stout inside shut-
layer of fruit the sand should form a ters. Sand operates as a preservative,

covering nine inches deep.

not only by excluding air and moisture,

Putrefaction requires indispensably ; but by keeping the fruit cool; for it is
three contingencies — moisture, warmth, one of the worst conductors of heat,
and the presence of atmospheric air, or and moreover it keeps carbonic acid in
at least of its oxygen. Now burying in contact with the fruit. All fruit in
sand excludes all these as much as can ripening emits carbonic acid, and this
be practically effected ; and it excludes, gas is one of the most powerful prevent-
moreover, the light, which is one of the ives of decay known,
prime agents in the ripening of fruit. I " The temperature of the fruit room
The more minutely divided into small should never rise above 40°, nor sink
portions animal or vegetable juices may ' below 34° of Fahrenheit's thermometer,
be, so much longer are they preserved
from "putridity : hencfll one of the rea-
sons why bruised fruit decays more
quickly than sound ; the membranes of
the pulp dividing it into little cells, are
ruptured and a larger quantity of the
juices are together ; but this is only
one reason, for bruising allows the air
to penetrate, and it deranges that inex-
plicable vital power, which whilst un-
injured acts 80 antiseptically in all
fruits, seed, and eggs. Bruises the most

the more regular the better. Powdered
charcoal is even a better preservative
for packing fruit than sand ; and one
box not to be opened until April, ought
to be packed with this most powerful
antiseptic. If it were not from its soil-
ing nature, and the trouble consequent
upon its employment, I should advocate
its exclusive use ; I have kept apples
perfectly sound in it until June.

" It is not unworthy of observation,
that the eye or extremity farthest from

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240

FUC

the stalk, is the first to ripen. This is
most perceptible in pears, especially in
the chaumontelle. That end therefore
should be slightly imbedded in the
sand; and thus excluding it from the
light, checks its progress in ripening."
— Principles of Gardening.

FUCHSIA. Twenty species, besides
many varieties. Green-house evergreen
shrubs. Seed and cuttings. Light rich
loam and peat.

Varieties for open borders. — F. Ric-
cartonia; globosa; gracilis; Thomsonii;
Clintonia; conica ; reflexa; erecta ; and
virgata.

For Pot-culture. — Brockmannii ; Exo-
niensis ; Colossus ; Attractor ; Enchan-
tress; Eppsii; Stanwelliana ; Splendida;
Defiance ; Laneii ; Toddiana ; Cham-
pion ; Victory; Majestica; Paragon;
Splendens; Fulgens; Robusta ; Youel-
lii ; Chandlerii ; Venus Victrix ; Money-
pennii ; Standishii; Dalstonii ; Curtisii ;
Eclipse; Rosa Alba; and Spectabilis.
There are about eighty other named
varieties of diii'ering degrees of merit.

Soil. — The best is formed of equal
parts rotted turf, sandy loam, and peat.

Propagation by seed. — Sow directly
it is ripe. Bruise the berries, wash
away their pulp, mix the seed with
sand, sow thinly in pans of the soil just
described, and place in the green-house.
Prick into thimbles when the seedlings
are large enough for handling; place
under a hand-glass, in a stove or hot-
bed, for a few days, and then remove
into a green-house. Shift into larger
pots as the roots fill those in which they
are growing.

By cuttirigs. — No plant is more easily
propagated by cuttings at any season o

the same stock. This is very desirable
where room has to be husbanded. Cut
away to the length of one and a half
inch, half the thickness of the two shoots
to be united, bind them together; sever
through the scion three-fourths of its
thickness, just below the junction, keep
in a warm moist atmosphere, and in
three or four days the junction will be
complete. F. fulgens, F. Cormackii
and other strong growing varieties are
the best stocks." — Gard. Chron.

To make specimen Fuchsias. — "In
order to have specimen plants of Fuch-
sias," says Mr. G. Watson, " put in
cuttings in the beginning of August ;
planting them round the rims of five
inch pots filled with light sandy soil
and well drained ; then place in a cu-
cumber-frame till sufficiently rooted,
and afterwards remove to a cool and
airy part of the green-house, and let
them remain till February. In that
month, pot off into small sixties, and
when well rooted in these pots, two or
more healthy and well-shaped plants of
each variety put into larger pots accord-
ing to their size. While young, care
must be taken that the earth, in which
they are growing, does not become
soured by over watering, or the plants
will soon become sickly. When they
have filled these pots with roots, the
plants must be removed into larger
pots and carefully tied up to sticks in
order to keep the leading shoots up-
right, as several of the varieties have a
tendency to grow downward, and it is
only with constant care that these va-
rieties are kept vigorous.

" About the second week in June,
shift for the last time into pots suffi-

the year than the Fuchsia, but the best \ ciently large to bloom them in ; in pot-

season is from the end of May to the
end of July. Have the cuttings about
three inches long; strip the leaves off
the lower half of their lengths, and plant
in pots, having the surface of the com-
post in them to the depth of an inch
covered with sand. Plant in this the
cuttings, so thattheir ends just touch the
compost. Moisten the sand, place the
pots in a green-house under the cover
of hand-glasses. When rooted, pot
singly in sixties.

By grafting. — "The early part of

ting particular attention must be paid
to the drainage, so that the superabund-
ant water may be easily passed off.

" Plants treated in this manner will
begin to bloom profusely at the latter
end of July, and continue flowering till
the end of Septjjmber ; during this pe-
riod the pots should be placed in pans,
so that the plant may be well supplied
with water, and yet not constantly
soaked in it.

" Plants thus treated, with their
shoots pruned to three or four buds,

May is suitable for grafting /Mc/isias, or I form beautiful objects for turning out
rather for inarching them, as this is de- I into the flower garden the following
cidedly the most successful mode of summer; but if very large specimens
combining more than one variety upon , are required, their pot room must be

FUE

241

FUM

increased, and they should be grown i duct will be the quantity of fuel required

in the open air

to heat a cubic foot of air, one degree ;

" Those who cultivate the Fuchsia, and twenty times that quantity will heat

with the desire of obtaining it in the
greatest perfection, should remember
that in its native haunts it flourishes
under the shade of loftier shrubs. Rea-
son, therefore, suggests, and experience

it twenty degrees ; thirty times will heal
it thirty degrees, and so on. Now
0.0075 lbs. of best coals will heat a
cubic foot of water one degree ; there-
fore 0.000002625 lbs. of best coals will

has proved, that nothing more conduces 1 heat a cubic foot of air one degree,
to its vigour than shading it for three or j It is essential to good and profitable
four hours during the hottest period of j fuel that it should be free from moist-
the day, and syringing gently every ! ure ; for unless it be dry, much of the
night and morning during hot weather.'
— Gard. Chron.

heat which it generates is consumed in
I converting that moisture into vapour :
Winter Protection. — At the approach ' hence the superior value of old dense,
of frost, that excellent horticulturist, dry wood, to that which is porous and

Mr. Mearns, recommends that the
plants should be taken out of the soil,
and all the laterals cut from them ;
upon those intended to be trained to a i
wall, paling, or trellis, leave three,
four, five or six canes. They are then

damp. A pound of dry will heat thirty-
five pounds of water from 32'' to 212'^;
but a pound of the same wood in a
moist or fresh state, will not similarly
heat more than twenty-five pounds.
The value, therefore, of different woods

ready to be deposited until the end of for fuel is nearly inversely as their
April, or beginning of May, in a pit in j moisture : and this may be readily as-
heath or any other tolerably dry soil, I certained by finding how much a pound
or sand, and place them in a sloping i weight of the shavings of each loses by
direction in the pit with stakes driven drving during two hours, at a terapera-

" tufe of 212".

The preceding are the average of
results obtainable in a common well-
constructed furnace. By a complicated
form of boiler, perhaps a small saving
of fuel, in obtaining the same results.

here and there diagonally over them,
that they may be kept hollow, and to
prevent the soil fronn pressing too much
upon their brittle stems.

In covering them use no straw, or
matting, but allow the soil to fall
amongst them, and form it into a sharp may be effected ; but it will be found

ridge at the top. — Gard. Chron.

generally, that the original cost of

The laterals removed at the time of apparatus, and the current additional

this winter-pruning, if divested of their
laterals, and packed in powdered char-
coal, or perfectly dry earth, in boxes,
and placed out of the reach of frost, in
a cool place, will retain their vitality
until next April, when they may be cut
into lengths of about a foot long, and
planted with a dibble; insert them into
the ground, so as to leave about three
inches of the cuttings above the surface
in any place where they are wanted to

expense for repairs, will more than
exceed the economy of fuel. — Prin. of
Gard.

FULL-FLOWER. See Double-flower.

FUMARIA. Six species. Hardy an-
nual climbers. Seed. Common soil.

FUMIGATING is employed for the
destruction of certain insects ; the in-
haled vapour or smoke arising from
some substances being fatal to them.
Tobacco (see Tobacco) is the usual sub-

flower next summer. If kept tolerably stance employed; and it may be ignited,
moist, they will be found to make good ; and the smoke impelled upon the insects

by bellows ; or the ignited tobacco may
be placed under a box, or within a

flowering plants with little trouble
Gard. Chron.

FUEL is no small item in the annual frame together with the affected plant,
expenditure of the stove, green-house. The vapour of turpentine is destructive

and conservatory departments, and
therefore deserves consideration.

The specific heat of water being 1,
and that of atmospheric air 0.00035, or
jg'jjjth, if the quantity of fuel which
will heat a cubic foot of water one de-
gree be multiplied by 0.00035, the pro-
16

to the scale and other insects, employed
in this mode. Mr. Mills has also stated
the following as the best mode of fumi-
gating with tobacco.

" According to the size of the place
to be fumigated, one or more pieces of
cast iron, one inch thick, and three

FUM

242

GAR

inches over, are made red hot; (pieces GALEANDRA gracilis. Stove

of old tiles, such as are used for cover- orchid. Division. Sandy peat, and

ing smoke flues, would probably answer light loam.

equally well ;) one of these is placed in GALEGA. Goat's Rue. Five spe-

a twenty-four sized pot, on which is put cies, and some varieties. Hardy her-

the quantity of tobacco considered ne- baceous perennials. Division or seeds.

cessary to charge the structure with Common soil.

smoke sufficient to destroy insect life. GALEOBDOLON iw^eum and variety.

To fumigate an ordinary sized eight- Hardy herbaceous perennial. Division.

light house, I use three heaters, and Marshy soil.

three twenty-four sized pots, which I GALIPEA. Two species. Stove

liave placed on the front flue or walk ; evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peaty

one pound of strong tobacco is put on soil.

the three heaters in equal parts, and GALL is a tumour, formed in conse-

this I find sufficient to till the house, so quence of the part being punctured by

as to destroy all the kinds of insects an insect, the tumour becoming the ni-

that perish by fumigation. The system dusof the insect brood. The Oak apple

lias these advantages: the tobacco is so caused by the Cynips querci is a fami-

quicklv consumed, that the house is liar example; as also are the bunches

completely filled in a very short time, of leaves not unlike a rose on the Rose

and but little smoke can escape before Willow, and the mossy tufts on the

the insects are destroyed; the pure heat twigs of the wild rose, and erroneously

from the iron heaters prevents injury called Bedeguar.

from gas, and as no blowing is required GALPHINIA. Two species. Stove

there is no dust: it being only neces- evergreens ; one a shrub; one a climber.

sary to put the tobacco on the heaters, Ripened cuttings. Loam and peat.

and leave the house." — Gard. Chron. I GAMBOGE. Gnrcinia Gamhogia. ,

FUMITORY. Fumaria. \ GAMMA MOTH. See Noctua.

FUNKIA. Five species. Hardy i GANGRENE. See Canker.
herbaceous. Division. Sheltered light
soil.

FURCRCEA. Seven species. Stove

succulents'. Suckers. Rich light loam, require a strong moist heat

G^>RTNERA. Two species. Stove GARDEN BALSAM. Justicia pec-
evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Loam toralis.
and peat. GARDEN BEETLE. See Phyllo-

GAGP2A. Nineteen species. Hardy pertha.

bulbous perennials. Off"sets. Light soil. GARDEN PEBBLE MOTH. See

GAGNEBINA. Two species. Stove Scapula.

evergreen shrubs. Cuttings and seeds. GARDENING. " Herder, in his JiTa/-

Loam and peat, with a little sand. ligone, caWs gardening the second libe-

GAILLARDIA. Four species. Hardy ral art, architecture the first. ' A dis-

herbaceous perennials. Division. Com- trict,' says he, ' of which every part

mon soil. bears what is best for it, in which no

GALA.CTIA. Four species. Hardy waste spot accuses the indolence of the

deciduous or stove evergreen twining inhabitants, and which is adorned by

plants. Cuttings. Division. Seeds, beautiful gardens, needs no statues on

Loam, peat and sand. the road ; Pomona, Ceres, Pales, Ver-

GALACTITES. Two species. Hardy tumnus. Sylvan and Flora meet us with

annuals. Seeds. Common soil. all their gifts. Art and nature are there

GALANGALE. Kampfera. harmoniously mingled. To distinguish,

GALANTHUS. Snowdrop. Two in nature, harmony from discord ; to

species. Hardy bulbous perennials, discern the character of every region

GARCINIA. Four species. Stove
evergreen fruit trees. Ripened cuttings.
Light loamy soil with peat. They

Offsets. Common soil

with a taste which developes and dis-

GAhA'S. aphylla. Hardy herbaceous poses to the best advantage the beauties
perennial. Division. Peaty soil in a of nature — if this is not a fine art, then
moist situation. none exists.' However true it may be,

GALAXIA. Five species. Green- that gardening deserves to be called a
house bulbous perennials. Offsets, fine art, we can hardly agree with Her-
Sandy peat soil. , der, that it is the second m the order of

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243

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time ; for though gardens must have
originated soon after man had advanced
beyond the mere nomadic life, yet the
practice of gardening as a fine art, that
is, not merely as a useful occupation,
must necessarily have been of a much
later date. The hanging gardens of
Semiramis are reckoned among the

constructed in the palaces in Rome,
and in which, as Pliny says, nature was
counterfeited. But a grotto does not
constitute a garden; and that the Ro-
mans had no fine gardens, in our sense
of the word, is proved by several pas-
sages of their authors, and by the ac-
counts we have of their gardens. In

wonders of the world ; but that which | Pliny's description of his Tuscan villa,
astonishes is not therefore beautiful. I we find, indeed, all conveniences — pro-
Scatlbldmgs, supported by pillars, co- tection against the weather, an agreea-
vered with earth, bearing trees, and ble mixture of coolness and warmth ;
artificially watered, are, no doubt, won- but everything beautiful relates merelv
derful ; but we have no reason to sup- [ to buildings, not to the garden, which,
pose them beautiful. The gardens of j with its innumerable figures of box, and
the Persians (paradises'; are called by j in its whole disposition, was as tasteless
Xenophon delightful places, fertile and i as possible. Ofthe gardens of Lucullus,
beautiful ; but they seem rather to have Varro says, that they were not remark-
been places naturally agreeable, with able for flowers and fruits, but for the

paintings of the villa. A fertile soil,
and a fine prospect from the villas,
which were generally beautifully situ-
ated, seem to have satisfied the Romans.
Whatever the art of gardening had i)ro-
duced among them, was, with every
other trace of refinement, swept away
by the barbarians who devastated Italv.
Charlemagne directed his attention to
this art, but his views did not extend
beyond mere utility. The Troubadours
of the middle ages speak of symmetri-
cal gardens. In Italy, at the time of
the revival of learning, attention was
again turned towards pleasure gardens,
some of which were so famous, that
drawings were made of them. They
may have been very agreeable places,
but we have no reason to suppose them
to have exhibited much of the skill of
the scientific gardener. At a later
period, a new taste in gardening pre-
vailed in France. Regularity was car-
ried to excess; clipped hedges, alleys
laid out in straight lines, flower-beds
tortured into fantastic shapes, trees cut
into the form of pyramids, haystacks,
animals, &c., were now the order of
the day. The gardens corres])ondcd
with the taste of the time, which dis-
played itself with the same artificial

fruit-trees, flowers, &c., growing spon-
taneously, than gardens artificially laid
outand cultivated. VVhetherthe Greeks,
so distinguished in the fine arts, neglect-
ed the art of gardening, is a question
not yet decided. The gardens of Al-
cinoiis (Odyssey, vii., 112 — 132) were
nothing but well laid out fruit orchards
and vineyards, with some flowers. The
grotto of Calypso {Odyssey, v., 63 — 73)
is more romantic, but probably is not
intended to be described as a work of
art. The common gardens which the
Greeks had near their farms, were more
or less like the gardens of Alcinoiis.
Attention was paid to the useful and the
agreeable, to culinary plants, fruits,
flowers, shadowing trees and irrigation.
Shady groves, cool fountains, with some
statues, were the only ornaments ofthe
gardens of the philosophers at Athens.
The descriptions of gardens in the later
Greek novelists do not show any great
progress in the art of gardening in their
time ; and it would be worth while to
inquire, whether the same cause, which
prevented the cultivation of landscape
painting with the ancients, did not also
prevent the progress of the art of gar-
dening. The ancients stood in a differ-
ent relation to nature from the moderns.

The true art of gardening is probably j stiffness in dress, architecture and poet-

connected with that element of the ro- i
mantic, which has exercised so great an j
influence on all arts ever since the re- i
vival of arts and letters, and, in some '
degree, ever since the Christian era. I
Even the grottoes of the ancients owed

ry. Lenotre was the inventor of this
style of French gardening, which, how-
ever, his successors carried to greater
excess. Nothing natural was left, and
yet nature was often imitated in arti-
ficial rocks, fountains, &c. Only one

their origin morely to the desire for the J thing strikes us as truly grand in car-
coolness they afforded. Natural grot- , dens of this sort — the fountains, which
toes led to artificial ones, which were were constructed at great expense.

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244

GAR

The Dutch imitated the French. The
English were the first who felt the ab-
surdity of this style. Addison attacked
it in his famous Essays on Gardening,
in the Spectator ; and Pope, in his
fourth Moral Epistle, lashed its petty,
cramped and unnatural character, and
displayed a better taste in the garden of
his little villa, at Twickenham ; crowds
followed him, and practice went before
theory. (See Horace Walpole's History
of Modern Taste in Gardening.) This
style, however, was also carried to
excess. All appearance of regularity

tastic, predominate in a garden, ac-
cording to the means which can be
commanded. This is not so easy as
might appear at first, and it requires as
much skill to discover the disposition
which should be made of certain
grounds, as to carry it into effect ; but
if such skill were not required, garden-
ing would not be an art. Another prin-
ciple, which gardening has in common
with all the fine arts, is, that it is by no
means its highest aim to imitate reality,
because reality will always be better
than imitation. A gardener ought to

•was rejected as hurtful to the beauty of j study nature, to learn from her the
nature, and it was forgotten, that if in a I principles and elements of beauty, as
garden we want nothing but nature, we 1 the painter is obliged to do; but he
had better leave gardening altogether. ! must not stop there. As another gene-
This extreme prevailed, particularly ral remark, we would observe, that the
after the Oriental and Chinese style (see true style of gardening lies between the
Chambers' Dissertations on Oriental two extremes. It is by no means a re-
Gardening-) had become known. What 1 proach to a garden that it shows the
in nature is dispersed over thousands of ; traces of art, any more than it is to a
miles, was huddled together on a small drama. Both, indeed, should follow
spot of a few acres square — urns, tombs; ' nature ; but in respect to the fine arts,

Chinese, Turkish and New Zealand
temples; bridges, which could not be
passed without risk ; damp grottoes ;
moist walks ; noisome pools, which
were meant to represent lakes; houses,
huts, castles, convents, hermitages,
ruins, decaying trees, heaps of stones ;
— a pattern card of every thing strange,
from all nations under heaven, was ex-
hibited in such a garden. Stables took
the shape of palaces, kennels of Gothic
temples, &c. ; and this was called
nature ! The folly of this was soon felt,
and a chaster style took its place. At
this point we have now arrived. The
art of gardening, like every other art,
is manifold ; and one of its first princi-
ples, as in architecture, is to calculate
well the means and the objects. Im-

there is a great difference between a
free following of nature and a servile
copy of particular realities. Tieck, in
his Phantasien, does not entirely reject
the French system ; at least, he defends
the architectural principle as one of
the principles of the art of gardening.
There are many works of great merit
on gardening, of which we only men-
tion Descriptions des nouveaux Jardins
de la France, &c., by La Borde (Paris,
1S08 to J814), the most complete for
descriptions; Loudon's Encyclopedia
of Gardening, 5th edit., (London, 1827;)
Handbuch der schonen Gartenkunst, by
Dietrich (Giessen, 1815); Hirschfeld's
Theorie der Gartenkunst (Leipsic, 1779),
5 vols., 4to., with many engravings, a
work of very great merit, and still of

mense cathedrals and small apartments, considerable use; Le ban Jardinier,
long epics and little songs, all may be ; Almanack pour P Annie 1830, edited by
equ°ally beautiful and perfect, but can ' A. Poiteau (Paris), 1022 pages. (See
only be made so by a proper regard to the article Horticulture.^ — Encyclo-
the'character ofeach. Thustheclimate, padia Americana.

the extent of the grounds, the soil, &c., j GARDENER. The day is gone when
must determine the character of a gar- ' the spade and the blue apron were the
den. Aiken justly observes, that no- ; only appropriate devices for the gar-
thing deviates more from nature, than dener ; he must now not only have a
the imitation of her grand works in thorough practical knowledge of his
miniature. All deception ceases at the art, but he must also have an intimate
first view, and the would-be magnificent acquaintance with its sciences. No
garden appears like a mere baby house. I man can have stored in his mind too
Let the character of the agreeable, the much knowledge, but there are always
sublime, the awful, the sportive, the ^ some branches of information of more
rural, the neat, the romantic, the fan- I value than others ; of these to the gar-

GAR

245

G EI

dener there are none so important as leaf mould and peat, with a little bush

botany and chemistry. Botany, physi-
ological as well as classical. Chemistry,

rubbish.

GASTONIA palmata.

especially as applied to the examination ] green shrub. Cuttings.

of organic nature.

GARDENIA. Twenty-seven species

Stove ever-
Sand, loam.

and peat.

GASTROCARPIIA runcinata. Half-

and two varieties. Stove or green-house hardy herbaceous perennial. Seeds.

shrubs. Cuttings.
ROCAMBOLE.

Loam
Allium

evergreen
and peat.

GARDEN
ophioscordon.

GARDEN SWIFT. See Hepialus.

GARDOQUIA. Five species. Stove
or green-house evergreen shrubs. G.
betonicoides is an herbaceous perennial.
Cuttings. Sand, loam, and peat

Common soil.

GASTROCHILUS pulcherrimus.
Stove herbaceous perennial. Division.
Sandy loam.

GASTROLOBIUM. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Half
ripened cuttings. Loam, peat, and
sand.

GASTRONEMA clavatum. Green-

GARLAND FLOWER. Pleurandra , house bulbous perennial. Offsets. Rich

Cneorum.

GARLICK. Allium sativum. Is ca-
pable of growing in almost any soil.

Mode and Time of Plantirig. — It is
generally propagated by parting the
root, but may be raised from the bulbs
produced on the stems. The planting

mould.

GATHERER. The hand is the best
instrument for collecting fruit into the
basket, but to avoid the danger and
breakage of branches unavoidably inci-
dental to using long ladders, the fol-
lowing instruments have been designed.

may be performed any time in February, ! Fig. 54, for apples and other single fruit.

March, and early in April ; but the
middle of the second is the usual time
of insertion. A single clove to be
placed in each one of holes made six
inches apart, and one and a half deep,
in straight lines, six inches distant from
each other; care being taken to set the
root downwards : to do this it is the
best practice to thrust the finger and
thumb, holding a clove between them,
to the reijuisite depth without any pre-
vious hole being made. The only cul-
tivation is to keep them clear of weeds,
and in .Tune the leaves to be tied in
knots to prevent their running to seed,
which would greatly diminish the size
of the bulbs. A few roots may be taken
up as required in June and July, but
the whole must not be lifled until the
leaves wither, which occurs at the close
of this last mentioned month, or in the
course of August. It is usual to leave
a part of the stalk attached, by which
they are tied into bundles, being pre-
viously well dried for keeping during
the winter.

GARLIC PEAR. Cratteva.

GARRYA elliptica and laurifolia.
Hardy evergreen shrubs. Layers.
Loamy soil

Fig. 55, for grapes, the branches of which
it severs and retains in its grasp.

Fig. 54. Fig. 55.

GATHERING. See Fruit Room.

GAUDICHAUDIA cynanchoides .
Stove evergreen twiner. Ripe cuttings.
Light turfy loam and peat.

GAULSHERIA. Four species.
Hardy or green-house evergreen shrubs.
G. procumbens, a creeper. Layers.
Peat soil.

GAURA. Eight species. Chiefly
hardy plants. G. fruticosa, increases
by cuttings. The perennials by seed :
they thrive in a rich soil. The annuals
and biennials. Seeds. Common soil.

GAZANIA. Five species. Green-

GARUGA prj'ma/a. Stove evergreen I house herbaceous perennials or ever

tree. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

GASTERIA. Forty-two species and

many varieties. Green-house evergreen evergreen shrub. Cuttings

shrubs. Suckers or leaves. Sandy loam, of loam and rotten dung

green shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

GEISSOMERIA longijlora. Stove

Rich aoi!

GEI

246

GER

GEISSORHIZA. Eleven species and ' piece of cloth dipped in tar and bound
few varieties. Green-house bulbous round a tree's stem prevents its ascent.

perennials. Offsets. Sandy peat.

GEITONOPLESIUM. Three spe-
cies. Green-house herbaceous peren-
nials. G. cymodum, is an evergreen
twiner. Cuttings. Peat and loam, or
sandy peat.

GELA. Two species. Green-house
evergreens. Cuttings. Sandy peat

GELASINE azurea.
bulbous perennial.

GEM. See Bud.

GENISTA. Forty-nine species and
a few varieties. Chiefly hardy ever-
green shrubs. A few deciduous or ever-
green trailers and shrubs. For the
green-house or half hardy kinds, cut-
tings, loam, peat, and sand. The
hardy kinds are increased by layers or
seeds.

GENTIAN A. Fifty-eight species
and some varieties. Hardy plants

G. piniaria attacks the pine and fir
tribe.

GEONOMA. Six species. Palms.
Seed. Rich sandy loam, and a strong
heat.

GERANIUM. Fifty-one species and
some varieties. Chiefly hardy herba-
ceous perennials. The green-house
Green-house and frame kinds increase from cuttings
or seeds, and grow well in a mixture of
loam and peat, and vegetable soil. The
hardy species and the annuals increase
from seeds, and require only common
soil. See Pelargonium.

GERARDIA. Seven species. Hardy
annuals, biennials, and herbaceous pe-
rennials. Seed or cuttings. Peatv soil.

GERBERA crenata. Green-house
biennial. Seeds. Sandy loam and peat.

GERMINATION is the sprouting, or
first step in vegetation of a seed. To

The herbaceous kinds for the most part > enable it to germinate, it must have a per

grow well in a rich peaty soil, and
may be increased by division- The
annuals and biennials by seeds. Com-
mon soil.

GENTIANELLA. Gentiana acaulis.
Is a hardy and herbaceous creeper.
Sow the seeds of this as soon as they
are ripe, (otherwise they soon lose the
power of vegetation,) in pans filled with
rather heavy peat. Sow on the surface,
without any covering except a slight
sprinkling of silver sand ; then place

feclly-developed embryo, and be ripe, or
nearly ripe. It must not be too old.

The following list, furnished by the
late Mr. Loudon, shows the greatest
age at which some of our common gar-
den seeds germinate freely ; and this
result of experience is quite concurrent
with our knowledge of their chemical
constitution : —

"One year. — Peas, beans, kidney
beans, carrot, parsnip, oraches, herb-
patience, rhubarb, elm, poplar, and

the pans either in a cold frame facing | willow. Two years. — Radish, salsafy,
the north, and kept close, or on the i scorzonera, purslane, the alliums, car-
north side of a wall, where they are i doon, rampion, alisander, love-apple,
completely screened from the sun, and capsicum, egg-plant. Three years. —
cover them with a hand-glass. i Sea-kale, artichoke, lettuce, marigold,

Soil. — A light loam suits it best ; ma- rue, rosemary. Four years.-^Brassicas,

nured annually with leaf mould. If the
subsoil is dry, the soil may be advan-
tageously more clayey.

GEOMETRA. The Amphidasis of
some entomologists, is a genus of moths;
including G. polosaria. Pale Brindled
Beauty Moth which appears in March ;

skirret, spinach, asparagus, endive,
mustard, tarragon, borage. Five and
six years. — Burnet, sorel, parsley, dill,
fennel, chervil, hyssop. Ten years. —
Beet, celery, pompion, cucumber, me-
lon."

Mr. Loudon may be safely received

ego-s deposited in bands round a twig, as good authority on subjects which he
as done by the Lacky Moth. Caterpil- ] investigated. If the age at which the
jars appear with the opening leaves of | vitality of certain seeds cease in Eng-

the elm, lime, lilac, and apple tree.
They are at first a light green.

G. defoliaria, Lime Looper, or Mot-
tled Umbre Moth, feeds on the leaves
of the lime and apple. Moth appears
in November. Caterpillar reddish, with
a bright yellow stripe on each side.
Female moth has no wings, so that a

and as expressed herein, be correct, it
proves a result in that climate different
from our own. For instance, peas,
beans, carrots, &c., vegetate freely in
the United States when two or three
years old, sea-kale seldom after the
first year, and so of other seeds enume-
rated in the list.

GER

247

GER

A certain degree of warmth is essen- that prevent the incubation of egps, un-
ti.il ; for no known plant has seed that ' less they be kept for a certain period at
■will germinate below or at the freezing ', a temperature of about lOC^

point of water. A temperature above
32o of Fahrenheit's thermometer there^

As no seed will germinate unless a
certain degree of heat is present, so also

fore is requisite. But on the other hand, does it require that a certain quantity
the temperature must not be excessively of water is in contact with its outer
high. Even no tropical seed, probably, skin or integument ; and this is required
will germinate at a temperature much not only to soften this covering, and
above 120^ F., and we know from the thus permit the enlargement of the co-
experiments of M. M. Edwards and tyledons (seed lobes) always preceding
Colin, that neither wheat, oats, nor bar- | germination, but also to aftord that wa-
ley will vegetate in a temperature of ter to internal components of the seed.

113'

without which the chemical changes

Every seed differing in its degree of necessary for the nutriment of the em

excitability, conseqbently, has a te

seqbe
t wlii

perature without wliich it will not ve-

bryo plant will not take place. As
water is essential to germination, and

getate, and from which cause arise the only a certain quantity is required for
consequences that dirterent plants re- ; its healthy progress, so is it by no means
quire to be sown at different seasons, a matter of indifference what matters it
and that they germinate with various I holds in solution. Until germination
degrees of rapidity. The gardener has commenced, no liquid but water at
should always bear in mind that it would common temperatures will pass through
be a very erroneous conclusion, because the integuments of a seed.
a seed does not germinate at the accus- : So soon as germination has com-
tomed time, that therefore its vegetating menced, this power to exclude foreign
powers are departed. No two seeds fluids ceases ; but the organs starting
taken from the same seed-vessel ger- i into activity, the radicle and the plumule
minate precisely at the same time; but \ are so delicate, that the weakest saline
on the contrary, one will often do so I solutions are too acrid and ofiensive f'»r
promptly, while its companion seed will them. It may be noted as a warning to
remain dormant until another year. those who employ steeps for seed, with

M. de Candolle relates an instance the hope of promoting the vigour of the
where fresh tobacco seedlingscontinued , future plant, that they must keep the
to appear annually for ten years on the seed in those steeps a very few hour?,
same plot, though no seed was sown In forty-eight hours, if the temperature
after the first sowing; and the same ' be 60° or more, putrefaction coin-
phenomenon usually occurs for two or inences, and germintition is weakened,
three years, when the seed of either the or entirely destroyed. M. Vogcl, of
peony or hawthorn are sown. Why one Munich, has published an exieiuied
seed is more easily excited than another course of experiments upon this subject,
is as yet unexplained ; but the wisdom and they fully confirm my opinion that
of this one of many i)rovisions for avoid- salts, innoxious when the plant is of
ing the accidental extinction of a spe- robust and advanced growth, are fatal
cies in any given locality is readily dis- to it at the lime of germination.
cerned. An ungenial spring may destroy : The presence of one of the conslito-
the plants from those seeds which first ent gases of the atmosphere, oxygen, is
germinated; but this could scarcely oc- also essential to germination. It is ne-
curalso to those of the second and third cessary that the oxygen should penetrate
year, or even to those which were only \ to the cotyledonous parts of the seed,
a few weeks later in their vegetation. as is evident by the changes which take

It is not possible to enunciate a ge- place during germination, and it is f\ir-
neral rule relative to germinating teni- ther proved by experiment. Wtien
peratures, requiring no exceptions; but healthy seed is moistened and exposed
in general, for the seeds of plants, in a suitable temperature to atmos-
natives of temperate latitudes, the best pheric air, it absorbs the oxygen only,
germinating temperature is about 60°, This power of separating one gas froi.i
and for those of tropical plants about the others appears to reside in tlie
80°; and the necessity for such tempe- , integuments of the seed, for old seeds
ratures depends upon the same causes ; lose the power of absorbing the oxygen,

GER

248

GER

and, consequently, of germinating ; yet
they will frequently germinate if soaked
in an aqueous solution of chlorine — a
gas which has the power of attracting
liydrogen from water, and others of its
compounds, and releasing the oxygen,
doing so in the case of seeds within
their integuments, as well as without-
side. Humboldt and Saussure have
also shown that the application of chlo-
rine to seeds accelerates its germina-
tion ; and Cress seed, which under or-
dinary circumstances requires some
days to complete the process, they
found effected it in no more than three

ant phenomena, — but we can penetrate
the mystery no farther.

I have never been able to discover
that light has injurious influence over
germination, and in those experiments
apparently proving the contrary, due
care was not taken to prevent the seed
being exposed to a greater degree of
dryness as well as to light.

If seed be placed on the surface of a
soil, and other seed just below that sur-
face, and care be taken to keep the for-
mer constantly moist, it will germinate
just as speedily as the buried seed, and
f exposed to the blue rays only of the

hours. The late Mr. George Sinclair, [ spectrum by being kept under a glass
author of the excellent Hortus Grami-', of that colour, ^ven more rapidly.
neus Woburnensis, also informed me | Therefore the object of sowing the seed

below the surface, is for the purposes
of keeping it in a state of equable and
salutary moisture, as well as to place
the radicle iu the medium necessary
for its growth into a root, immediately
it emerges from the integument of the
seed. These facts hold out some bea-
cons worthy of being attended to, as

that he employed chlorine with sin
gular success. He obtained it by mix-
ing a tablespoonful of muriatic acid with
a similar quantity of black ox de of man-
ganese, and half a pint of water. After
allowing the mixture to remain two or
three hours, the seed is to be immersed
in the liquid for a similar period, and

then sown. Another, and I consider ! guides for the operation of sowing,
the most eligible mode of applying the ! They point out that every kind of
chlorine was also suggested to me by | seed has a particular depth below the

the same distinguished horticulturist.
In this way he said he made tropical
seeds vegetate which refused to germi-
nate by other modes of treatment. He
placed the mixed ingredients mentioned
above in a glass retort, inserting its
bulb in the hot-bed, and bringing its
beak under the pot in which the seeds
were sown, connecting it with the
draining aperture of the pot. The chlo-
rine gas is gradually evolved, passing

surface at which it germinates most
vigorously, as securing to it the most
appropriate degree of moisture, of oxy-
gen gas, and of warmth. From a quar-
ter of an inch to two inches beneath
the surface, appear to be the limits for
the seeds of plants; but they usually
vary for the same seeds in different
grounds and countries. It must be the
least in aluminous soils and dry cli-
mates. In general, sowing should be

through the earth of the pot to the seeds, performed in dry weather, especially
with more or less rapidity, according ' on heavy soils, not only because of the
to the heat employed. This absolute i greater saving of labour, but because
necessity for the presence of oxygen is j it prevents the seed being enveloped

a reason why seeds will not germinate
if buried beyond a certain distance from
the earth's surface ; and why clayey
soils often fail of having a good plant,
an impervious coat of the clay envelop-
ing the seed, and preventing the air's
access. How oxygen operates in aid-

with a coat of earth impermeable by
the air, " which," says Sir H. Davy,
" is one cause of the unproductiveness
of cold clayey soils." Perhaps the
time at which any ground may be
raked with the greatest facility is as
good and practical a criterion as any

ing the seed to develope the parts of the I to judge when it is fit for sowing. In
embryo plant, we cannot even guess — general, if clay does not predominate
•we only know that most seeds have I in its constitution, a soil rakes best just
more carbon (pure charcoal) in their [ after it has been turned up with the

composition than other parts of their
parent plant; that the oxygen absorbed
bv the seeds combines with a portion of
that carbon, and is emitted in the form
of carbonic acid. These are the attend-

ipade. If clay does predominate it
usually rakes with most facility after it
has been dug two or three days, and
then immediately after a gentle rain.
But it is certain that the sooner seed is

GE R

249

G L A

sown after the soil is dug for its recep-
tion, the earlier it germinates. In the
droughts of summer, water is often re-
quired to newly-sown beds. Such ap-
plication must not be very limited or
transitory ; for if the soil is only moist-
ened at the immediate time of sowing,
it induces the projection of the radicle,
which in very parching weather, and
in clayey, caking soil, I have known
wither away, and the crop be conse-
quently lost from the want of a con-

brids, are the next in beauty to G.
psittacinvs, but they are not so hardy
nor so vigorous. They require taking
up every season ; for if left in the
ground, though protected with a cover-
ing, they always sufler from damp, and
never start early enough to flower well
the next season.

" About the beginning of October,
to propagate them, take from well-
established plants a cluster of corms
about one and a half or two feet in cir-

tinued supply of moisture. — Princ. of cumference, and plant them one foot

apart, and two or three inches deep, in
beds two feet wide, with a little sand
at the bottom of the bulbs. When
forced, this plant forms a brilliant orna-
ment for the green-house in the begin-
ning of summer.

" In the month of October take eight
or twelve-sized pots, and fill them with
as large a mass of the strongest corms
as the pots will admit, and protect them
till they are required for forcing." —
Gard. i'hron.

" Gladiolus psittacinus or natalentis,
is one of the most ornamental of the
Cape gladioli, and, from its easy culti-
vation, deserves to have a place in all
flower-gardens where a brilliant dis-
play is required during the autumn.
Beds should be prepared some time
during the winter, or early in the
spring, by digging up the soil deep
and leaving it rough, adding, at the
same time, a good portion of well-
rotted dung and a little sand, if the soil
is of a stiff nature ; but if light, sand ia
not required.

" About the middle of April mark
out the bed into rows, one foot apart
and four inches deep, putting a little
sand along the bottom of the rows ;
then place the bulbs in the rows, about
nine inches or one foot apart, taking
care to separate all the bulbs, and only
plant one in each place; then, having
a little sand (any refuse from cutting
pots, or bank-sand, will do), put a
small portion round each bulb, and fill
in the rows. After this the plants will
require no further trouble excp[)t keep-
ing clean and tying up, which latter is
easily done by driving a few sticks
round the outside of the bed, and run-
ning a couple of tiers of tar-twine round
it. With this treatment the gladioli
will begin flowering about the end ot
July, and will contmue blooming for
nearly two months, particularly if they

Gardening

GEROPOGON. Old Man's Beard.
Three species. Hardy annuals. G.
calyculatus an herbaceous perennial.
Seeds. Common soil.

GESNERA. Thirty species, and
two varieties. Stove herbaceous pe-
rennials, or evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Rich light soil.

GETHYLLIS. Five species. Green-
house bulbous perennials. Offsets or
seeds. Sandy loam and peat.

GETONIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

GEUM. Twenty-three species, and
a few varieties. Hardy herbaceous
perennials. Division or seeds. Rich
light loamy soil.

GILIA. Eight species, and one
variety. Hardy annuals. Seeds. —
Common soil. G. aggregata ; a green-
house biennial.

GILLENIA. Two
herbaceous perennials
and loam.

GILLYFLOWER.

GINGER. Zingiber.

GINGERBREAD TREE. Parin-
arium macrophyllum.

GIPSY MOTH. See hombyx.

GIRDLING is a mode of killing
trees adopted in clearing the forests of
America, by cutting, early in the
spring, a girdle or ring round the stem
of each tree, taking away not only the
bark but the entire alburnum down to
the hard wood — the ascent of the sap
is thus prevented. See Ringing.

GLADIOLUS. Forty species ; many
varieties. Chiefly green-house, and a
few hardy bulbous perennials.

G. cardinalis. (in the culture of this
we have the following information
from Mr. A. Mackenzie and Mr. Gor-
don : —

" Gladiolus cardinalis, and its hy-

species. Hardy
, Division. Peat

See Mathiola.

GL A

250

GL A

are freely supplied with water once or ' have done growings Tor the season, care
twice (as the season nnay require) just must be taken not to dry the soil in the
before they begin to expand their first pans too quickly or too much ; for the
flowers. Care must be taken, however, ' young bulbs, being very small, are apt
not to water them overhead. i to become much exausted, and fre-

" The bulbs to be taken up about qiiently perish if kept very dry the first
the end of October, or as soon as the i winter. They should be, if possible,
stems and leaves become brown or placed in some cool, dry situation,
damaged by the frost. They must be i where they are secure from frost. In
well dried, and placed in some situa- j the spring they should be again placed
tion secure from frost or damp until , in a green-house or warm pit, and,
the next spring, when they must be di- when fairly started, they should be
vided, and again treated as before, carefully removed into fresh pans or
The large bulbs will also produce pots, being rather a richer soil than
numerous offsets round their root-end ; that used for the seeds, planting them
but these are of little value, for they still rather thickly in the pots or pans,
will be two or three years before they and keeping them shut up close and
flower; and as every flowering bulb rather moist for a few days, until they
planted in the spring produces three begin to grow again, after which treat
or four bulbs of sufficient size to bloom them as before, and encourage them to
next season, from the crown of the old i grow as long as possible in the autumn,
one, there is always enough for all I then rest them as before. The next
purposes. The plant also flowers free- 1 spring they may be potted in smaller
ly ; but the small bulbs and the seed- pots, and treated like the Gladiolus
lings will be so long before they flower, cardinalis, when many of them will
that they are not worth the trouble of flower." — Gard. Chron.
raising, except for the sake of obtain- I GLASS is the best agent employed
jng new varieties." — Gard. Chron. by the gardener to exclude the cold,

" Gladiolus ramosissimus is the next whilst the light is admitted to his plants
most beautiful kind for growing either t which are natives of hotter climates
in pots or in a bed. The bulbs of I than that in which he cultivates them,
these hardier kinds should be taken • Now that the excise-duty is removed
up every two years, divided, and re- j from glass, the gardener is enabled to
planted, as they will not flower so ! employ the best, and a thicker kind
finely if left too long in one place. j than formerly, when the duty was high

"They require a rich soil, made j in proportion to the good quality and
rather free by adding a little sand to it j weight. Anxiety to obtain the best
when the bulbs are being planted. By glass for hot-houses, &c., is every way
this treatment nearly all the cape gladi- j laudable ; but the benefit sought for is
oli may be made to flower beautifully, | frustrated if it be not constantly well
and far finer and better than if retained i cleansed. The best glass, if dirty,
in pots. They are easily increased by allows fewer rays of light to pass

offsets or by seeds ; but the latter way
is rather tedious, and only worth re-
sorting to for the sake of raising new
varieties. When this is intended, the
seed should be sown about the end of

through than interior glass kept bright.
A thorough cleansing should be given
both to the outside and inside twice
annually, during the first weeks of
February and of October, and a third

February, in pans filled with a mixture i cleansing, on the outside only, at the
of sandy peat, and loam, and leaf- [ end of June. In proportion to the de-
mould. The seeds should be planted ficiency of light does the plant under
about half an inch deep in the soil, and , glass become, in the gardener's phrase-
the pans placed in a green-house. — ology, drawn,- that is, its surface of
They will soon vegetate, and require I leaves becomes unnaturally extended,
little trouble, for the first season, ex- i in the vain effort to have a sufficient
cept watering and keeping free from ' elaboration of the sap effected by means
slugs and weeds, taking care, how- ; of a large surface exposed to a dimi-
ever, that they are kept growing as j nished light, for which a less surface
vigorously and as long as possible by would have been sufficient if the light
freely supplying them with water du- | were more intense. The plant with
ling the growing season. When they ] this enlarged surface of leaves becomes

G L A

251

G L A

unfruitful, the sap being expended in
tiieir production which should have
been appropriated to the formation of
fruit.

GLASS-CASES are of various kinds.

time will, I believe, not only secure
their ripening well every year in the
midland counties, but also that such
advantage will be available in the
north of England, where grapes never

One is formed of glazed wooden frames, ripen on the open walls."

fitting together, to protect espaliers,
wall-trees, or shrubs too large to be
covered with a hand-glass.

Another glass-case is made for pro-
tecting a single branch. It is thus de-
scribed by Mr. Maund, the author of inside the glass, it is only necessary to

Lastly, there is the Wardian-rase
to cover plants growing in rooms,
preserving to them uniform moisture
and excluding dust. To prevent the
dew which is occasionally deposited

Fig. 56.

that most useful periodical
the Botanic Garden : —

" Although my experi-
ment is not yet com-
pleted, I cannot omit
mentioning to you its
success. Grapes grown
on open walls in the
midland counties are
rarely well - ripened ;
therefore this year I pro-
vided a small glazed
frame, a sort of narrow
hand-glass, of the shape
shown in the annexed
outline, to fix against the
wall, and inclose one
branch of the vine with
its fruit and foliage.
"The open part, which rests against
the wall, is thirteen inches wide, and
may be of any length required to take
in the fruit. The sides are formed of
single panes of glass, seven inches
wide, and meet on a bar which may j
represent the ridge of a roof, the ends
inclosed by triangular boards, and hav-
ing a notch to admit the branch. This
was fixed on the branch a month be- |
fore the vine came into flower. The
consequence was, the protected '
branches flowered a week earlier than j
the exposed. The frame was not
fitted closely to the wall, but in some
places may have been a quarter of an
inch from it. The lateral branches !
being shortened before it was fixed, it
did not require removal even for prun- '
ing, because I adopt the long-rod mode
of training, which is peculiarly adapted
to mv partial protection system. The
temperature within the frame is always
bit^her than without, sometimes at mid-
day even from 20" to 30".

" By this simple protection I find
grapes may be ripened from three
weeks to a month earlier than when
wholly exposed, and this saving of

open the case frequently, for a few
minutes, to render the temperature

Fig. 57.

Fig. 58.

GLA

252

GLO

within similar to that outside. They
are not intended to exclude the air,
and are now made very ornamental.

Fig. 59.

GLASTONBURY THORN. CratcE-
gus oxyacantha.

GLAUCIUM. Six species, one va-
riety. Hardy annuals and biennials.
Seeds. Common soil.

GLAUX maritima. Hardy herba-
ceous trailer. Seeds. Open sandy loam.

GLAZING. See Stove.

GLEDITSCHIA. Ten species, be-
sides varieties. Hardy deciduous trees.
Seeds. Any soil suits them.

GLEICHENIA. Five species. Stove
herbaceous perennials. Division. Peat
and loam.

GLOBE-AMARANTH. Gomphrena.

GLOBE-FLOWER. Trollius.

GLOBE-THISTLE. Echinops.

GLOBULARIA. Nine species. Hardy
or green-house herbaceous perennials.
Cuttings or seed. The green-house spe-
cies thrive in loam and peat; the hardy
kinds in sandy light soil.

GLOBULEA. Sixteen species, be-
sides varieties. Green-house herbaceous
perennials. Cuttings. Sandy loam and
peat, with brick rubbish.

GLORIOSA. Four species. Chiefly
stove bulbous perennials. Division ; also
seeds sown as soon as gathered. Turfy
loam, white sand, and peat.

G. superba. — Mr. W. Scott, of Bury
Hill, gives these particulars as to its

culture : —

" It naturally requires about six that are well drained, and filled with a

months' rest, and will seldom start for
growth before March, when it will re-
quire a good bottom heat of at least80°,
either in a bark-pit or cucumber-bed.
The greatest error committed with re-
gard to its treatment is leaving the root
to start in the same pot, &c., it grew in
in the previous year. As it makes its
shoot from the lower end of the new
tuber, which is consequently at the bot-
tom of the pot, if it is not taken out,
and that end placed upwards, it has to
struggle through the whole mass of
mould to reach the surface, which it
often fails in doing. It should be potted
at the beginning of March in a forty-
eight pot ; or, if the tuber (which some-
times happens) is too long, a bulb-pot
may be used. It should be well drained,
and planted in pure light peat or heath
mould, with the end of the root just
above the surface. When it makes a
shoot, it also forms fresh roots from the
base of the new shoot, and will grow
rapidly if kept in a stove or vinery at a
temperature of 70^ or 80', and soon
requires a larger pot. It generally
takes a six, using nothing but light peat
soil.

" It may then be trained in any form
most convenient. After it has flowered
and the leaves are decayed withhold
water entirely to ripen the tubers, which
may be kept in the dry mould till the
spring, or taken out and kept in dry
sand till the season for potting them."
— Card. Chron.

GLOSSODIA. Two species. Green-
house orchids. Offsets. Sandy loam
and peat.

GLOXINIA. Five species. Stove
herbaceous perennials. All are propa-
gated by seed, but G. maculata is also
increased by division; and the others
by leaves taken off" close to the stem.
Loam, peat, and sand, with leaf mould.

Varieties. — Many varieties have been
raised by cross-impregnation, but for a
private garden the following may be
recommended: — G. corcineus ; G.
Youngii ; G. Manglesii; G. rubra; G.
Maxima ; G. speciosa ,- and G. Candida.

Mr. J. McI., of Hillsborough, gives
the following directions for the culture
of these flowers : —

"Propagation. — The gloxinia is rea-
dily increased by seeds and cuttings;
the seeds should be sown very thinly,
as soon as they are gathered, in pans

GL Y

253

GO A

mixture of fine peat and sand ; the seeds
should not be covered ; they may after-
wards be placed in a frame where the
temperature is about 680. When they
have acquired one or two leaves, they
should be potted off into small pots

green-house evergreens ; chiefly twin-
ers. Seeds. Loam, peat, and sand.

GLYCIRUHIZA. Liquorice. Eight
species. Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Slips from the roots with eyes. Planted
in the spring. Light sandy soil. See

and not dried off until the second year, [ Liquorice.
as the small fibres are not sufficiently , GLYPHYTERYX. A genus of moths,
strong to cause them to grow vigor-' " G. Boese/Za, Spinach Moth, appears
ously in spring. This remark is also I in the spring and throughout the sum-
applicable to young plants raised from 1 mer. It is blackish-brown coloured,
cuttings. I Caterpillar yellowish green. Feeds

" Gloxinias are readily propagated j on spinach, strawberry blite, &c., and
even by a single leaf pressed firmly in- lives three or four together, under a
to the soil, which may be the same as 1 web on the leaves."
is used for seeds. | Mr. Curtis says, that "when fully fed

^'Culture. — The roots should be al- ^ the caterpillars leave the plants on
lowed to become quite dry during au- I which they have been subsisting, and
tumn, and continue so all the winter ; 1 seek some crack in a tree or wall,
they should not be allowed to become ^ where they spin a slight cocoon, and
dry, however, all at once, but by de- , change to pupa; in this state they re-
grces. While they are in this state the I main ten or twelve days, when the per-
pots may be laid on their sides, on a feet insect emerges. The moth, when
dry shelf in the green-house until Feb- [ its wings are expanded, is about five
ruary or March, but February is the lines long ; the head, body, and feet
best time for starting them. In potting are black, with a shining metallic ap-
them, the earth should be carefully : pearance. The antenna; are black with
shaken from the bulbs, which should be i white rings, and the upper wings are
repotted in a mixture of one-half de- [ yellow, with black edges, and about five
cayed vegetable mould, and one-half i silvery spots disposed in the shape of a
good rich loam, with the addition of a cross ; the under wings are blackish,
little sand or charcoal. land, as well as the upper, have long

" The pots should be well drained, j fringes. It is difficult to find means to
In planting, press the roots gently on destroy so minute an enemy as the pre-
the surface of the soil, and give them | sent; but where it attacks spinach it is
no water for some time, as the moisture ; much better to pull up the plants with
of the pot will be sufficient for them at | the caterpillars on them, and burn
first. them ; where they appear only in small

"After they are all potted, remove quantities, hand-picking may answer
them to a frame where the temperature > very well." — Gard. Chron.
is about 60^, and when they have com- 1 GMELINA. Five species. Stove or
menced growing, give them a little green-house evergreen trees. Cuttings,
water, increasing the quantity as they Rich loam and peat, and a very strong
advance in growth. A little air should heat,
be given them in fine weather. \ GNAPHALIUM. Six species. Chiefly

"By the middle of May they will hardy plants. G. albescens, an evergreen
have attained a good size, and some of shrub. G. purpuritim. The shrubby
them will be showing flowers, when and herbaceous increase by cuttings and
they may be removed to the green- division; the annuals and biennials by
house, when nothing except proper at- seeds. Rich light soil,
tention to watering them is required. GNIDIA. Seventeen species. Green-
When the plants have done flowering, house and evergreen shrubs. Young
water should be gradually withheld. shoots planted in sand. Peat soil.

" It often happens, however, that QOAT MOTH. See Bombyx.
some of the species continue in a grow-

ing state all the winter, for instance
G. caulescens, which is unlike any of
the others in habit and manner of
growth." — Gard. Chron.
GLYCINE. Eight species. Stove or

GOAT'S BEARD. Spiraa aruncus.
GOAT'S FOOT. Oxalis caprina.
GOAT'S ORIGANUM. Thymus Tra-
goriganum.

GOAT'S RUE. Galega.

GO A

254

GOO

GOAT'S THORN. Astragalus Tra^ I GOOSEBERRY. Ribes grossularia
gacantha. The European succeed but indifferently

GOBBO. See Artichoke. [in this country, unless it be in the dry

GODETIA. Three species. Hardy I atmosphere of a city. Mildew, the
annuals. Seeds. Common soil. j especial enemy of this fruit, seizes on

GODOYA geminijiora. Stove ever- i it, and speedily arrests the circulation
green tree. Ripe cuttings. Peat and of the juices — the consequence is inevi-
loam. table disease. It has been said that a

GOLDBACHIA lavigata. Hardy an

nual. Seeds. Common soil

GOLDEN HAIR. Chrysocoma co-
maurea.

GOLDEN ROD. Bosea.

GOLDEN THISTLE. Scolymus.

GOLDEN THISTLE. Protea Scoly-
mus.

GOLDFUSSIA anisophylla. Stove
evergreen shrub. G. glomerata, stove
herbaceous perennial. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

GOLD OF PLEASURE. Camelina.

GOLDY LOCKS. Chrysocoma.

GOMPHIA. Six species. Stove ever-
green shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam.

GOMPHOCARPUS. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

GOMPHOLOBIUM. Twenty-five spe-
cies. Chiefly green-house evergreen
shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

GOMPHRENA. Seven species.
Stove or green-house annuals and bien-
nials, herbaceous perennials, or ever-
green shrubs. Seeds; and the shrubby
kinds, cuttings. Rich mould.

GONGORA. Four species. Stove
orchids. Division. Wood.

GONOLOBYS. Twenty-one species.
Stove evergreen and hardy and green-
house deciduous twiners. The hardy
require a dry situation, and increase by
division or seeds. Peat or any light
soil. For the stove and green-house
kinds, cuttings. Loam and peat.

GONOSTEMON. Three species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. San-
dy loam.

'GOODENIA. Seven species. Green-!
house evergreen shrubs, and herbaceous fj^een Prin

solution of whale-oil soap will destroy
the parasite, and preserve the fruit
healthful and perfect.

Varieties. — If quality be the chief
consideration, as most assuredly it ought
to be, the following are the best: —

Red Champagne.

Red Turkey.

Keen's seedling, Warrington.

Early White.

Woodward's Whitesmith.

Hebburn.

Green Prolific.

White Fig.

Pigmaston.

Green Gage.

Yellow Champagne.

Taylor's Bright Venus.

Red Warrington.

Rumbullion.

If size be the primary object, the
following may be cultivated : —

Reds.
Briton. I Lion's Provider.

Companion. | London.

Conquering Hero. | Roaring Lion.

Guido.

' Cossack.
Fleur-de-Lis.
Freedom.
Lady Stanley.

Broom Girl.
Bird Lime.
Catherina.
Goldfinder.
Gunner.

perennials. Seeds or cuttings. Peat
and loam.

GOODIA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings or
seed. Loam and Peat.

GOOD NIGHT. Argyreia bona nox.

GOODYERA. Six species. Stove or
hardy orchids. The former do best in
sandy peat and leaf mould : the latter
require sandy peat, and are increased
by division.

Young Wonderful.

Whites.

Miss Walton.

Philip the First.

Tally-ho.

White Eagle.
Yellows.

Leader.

Pilot.

Teazer.

Two-to-one.

Greens.

Peacock.
Turn-out.
Thumper.
Weathercock.

Keepsake.

Overall.

Providence.

The size to which some of these have

been grown are as follows : —

Roaring Lion .... 29 dwts.

Teazer 32;"

Young Wonderful . . . 27i "

Companion 28 "

London 35 "

GOO

255

GOO

To raise Varieties. — The seed must bush, B B is the soil taken out about
be taken from perfectly ripe berries, eighteen inches all round the plant,
and sown immediately in pots of light i and about six inches deep at C, that if
loam, to remain in the green-house ' there are any buds or suckers, they are
during winter, or be preserved in sand ; sure to be seen and destroyed. Thisdo
until February, and then sown. The j every year in December, and as soon
soil must be kept moderately moist un- as the soil is taken out, spread cowdung
til they are large enough to prick out over the roots as shown at B, after
in beds. ' which replace the earth that has been

Cu^img-s are the best mode of propa- ' taken out: when you have any new
gating approved kinds. Take a bearing seedlings to propagate, do not take out
shoot not less than nine inches long; the soil, but lay the manure round them,
remove all the buds but the top three, , and cover it with a layer of earth,
and bury them to within an inch of the which encourages the plant to produce
lowest bud left. Plant them in rows suckers.

eighteen inches apart each way.

'■ By these means good bushes are

Culture. — At the end of the first year, sooner obtained than by cuttings, and
the shoots must be cut down to a few generally speaking, well-rooted suckers
eyes, and the plants kept clear from may be taken off in October, which
any summer shoots that may be on the , produce fruit the following year. The
stem or that spring from the root; they cuttings should be deprived of all their
must have plenty of water the first sum- under-ground eyes or buds ; before they

They will be fit to plant out in two
or three years into borders or quarters,
at eight feet between the rows, and six
feet apart. At the time of planting out,
some rich compost may be added with
great etfect towards the flavour, size,
and abundance of the crop. — Doyle.

" There is a continual tendency on

are put into the ground to take cuttings
from twelve to fifteen inches long, cut
the upper end to a bud, leaving three or
four other buds below it, then pare
away all the other buds, and pick out
the lowest of all, finishing just below it
by a horizontal clean cut." — Card.
Chron.
Pruning in the summer is confined

the part of the under ground buds to to pinching off superfluous and mis

become branches, and these are the placed shoots, it always being kept in

suckers that we find so troublesome in ' " ' "

many kinds of soils. By continually

stopping and wounding them, however,

they will in general perish; and to do

this is what we recommend.

" The Lancashire gooseberry grow-
ers adopt the following as the best
means of preventing gooseberries from

mind that the centre of the tree
standards must be kept open so as to
admit the light. " At the time of prun-
ing," says Mr. Doyle, " some fine young
shoots should be left in the most con-
venient place as bearing wood for the
ensuing year, and room must be made
for them by cutting out some of the old

throwing up suckers, and also an excel- wood. Each of the old branches should
lent plan of insuring an abundance of have a leader left of new wood, which

large fruit.

may be shortened according to its

" In the sketch, (Fig. 60,) A is tlie ' strength so as to leave five or six inches

above the old wood. Very strong shoots
need not be so much shortened unless
in a part of the bush which is naked,
and requires to be furnished.

" Avoid shortening the shoots unless
when the tree is naked, or the wood
will be crowded, tufted, and productive
of very small and indifferent fruit. The
leading shoot at the end of each branch
should, where it is possible, terminate
naturally, if it be not inconsistent with
the equable extent of the tree ; and in
most cases it may still be so contrived
by having recourse to the next lateral
branch of the desired extent, and by

GOO

256

GOU

taking away that which straggled be- I low temperature, about 60° afterwards,
yond it. Let it be recollected that at and not higher than 40° at night.
the time when the young trees are i GORDONIA. — Four species. Hardy
growing in the nursery, and at all times! deciduous shrubs. G. hamatoxylon is

after, the attention of the gardener
'must be directed to what is called
" stemming the trees," which is pro-
ducing and continuing a clear stem to a
given height, (accordmg to the growth
of the different kinds,) by taking off all
lateral shoots at their first appearance.
Espaliers. — No fruit is more benefited
than that of the gooseberry, by having
the tree trained as an espalier. It is
best done to stakes arranged lozenge- : seeds
wise, (see Espalier,) or the bush may , heat
be trained round hoops in this form.

a stove evergreen tree. G. pubescens,
(the Franklinea) is a highly attractive
shrub or minor tree, indigenous to
Georgia, &c. Layers or cuttings. Peat
and loam.

GOSSYPIUM. The Cotton Tree.
Eleven species. Stove annuals, bien-
nials, perennials, or evergreen shrubs.
For the shrubby kinds, cuttings and
seeds. The annuals and biennials,
A light rich soil and a moist

Fig. 61.

GOUANIA. Six species. Stove ever-
green climbers. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

GOURD, Sagenaria vulgaris, and
PUMPKIN, Cucurbita pepo, are chiefly
employed in the making of pies, &c.
There are numerous varieties, varying
in the shape and colour of their fruit:
as the globular, oval, pear-shaped,
green, striped, marbled, yellow, &c.,
&c. One variety, of a pale buff or
salmon colour and globular form grows
to the weight of one hundred and ten
pounds and upwards : it is known in
France as the Potiron Jaune, and used
in soups, but in particular from being
Fruit. — This should be thinned, the ! mashed and eaten as potatoes or turn-
smaller berries be cut away with a pair ips, being of a very pleasant and pecu-
of scissors for tarts, &c., as required, j liar flavour. The bottle-shaped is of
and the fine berries left for dessert. If j little use for culinary purposes, but is
some of reds, as the Warrington, and i remarkable as being of the form of a
of the thick-skinned yellows, as the Florence or oil-flask.
Mogul, are matted over when the fruit j Cucurbita melopepo, the Squash. Cu-
is ripe, it will remain good until Christ- I curbita succada, the Vegetable Marrow.

mas. This is easiest done when the
tree is grown as an espalier. To in-
crease the size of the berries, abund-
ance of water and liquid manure are
given to the roots, and the berries are
stickled by keeping their tips in saucers

Both these are cultivated for the fruit,
which being gathered when of the size
of a goose's egg, is boiled vrhole in
salt and water, laid upon toast, and
eaten as asparagus. Of the squash,
there are almost as many varieties as of

of water; this is sacrificing the flavour the pompion, and similarly character-

to increase the circumference of the
fruit.

ized. The young fruit is much used in
pickles. They may be sown in a hot-

Vermin. — The caterpillar and the I bed of moderate strength, under a frame
black-fly are both destroyed by syring- ; or hand-glasses at the end of March or

ing the bushes with water, and then
dusting the leaves above and beneath
with white hellebore powder, or with
lime and soot mixed in equal propor- \
tions.

early in April. In May they may be
sown in the open ground, beneath a
south fence, to remain, or in a hot-bed,
if at its commencement, to forward the
plants for transplanting at its close, or

Forcing. — Neither the gooseberry early in June. The plants are fit for
nor currant can be forced without great transplanting when they have got four
care. No heat must be applied when j rough leaves, or when of about a
they are first put under glass. A very [ month's growth. They must be plant-

GOV

257

G R A

ed without any shelter on dunghills, or I part of a branch of one plant upon the

Grafting is a ditllcult mode of multi-
plying an individual, because it is re-
quisite so to fit the scion to tlie stock,
that some portion of their alburnums
and inner barks must coincide, other-
wise the requisite circulation of the
sap is prevented. No graft will suc-
ceed if not immediately grafted upon a
nearly kindred stock. I say immedi-
ately, because it is possible that by
grafting on the most dissimilar species
on which it will take, and then moving
it with some of the stock attached, to
another stock still more remotely allied,
that a graft may be made to succeed
though supplied with sap from roots of
a very dissimilar species. Thus some
pear scions can hardly be made to unite
with a quince stock ; but if they be
grafted upon a young shoot and after-
wards inserted in a quince stock, they
g:row as freely as if inserted in a seed-
ling pear stock.

The reason for this unusual difficulty
in the way of uniting kindred species,
arises from one or more of these causes.
First, the sap flowing at discordant
periods. Secondly, the proper juices
being dissimilar. Or thirdly, the sap
vessels being of inappropriate calibre.

Grafting is employed, first, to multiply
any desired variety or species; second-
ly, to accelerate its fruitfulncss, as
when the shoot of a two year old apple
seedling js grafted upon a stock of six
years' growth, it will arrive at fruitful-
ncss much sooner than one left on the
parent stem ; thirdly, to improve the
([uality of the fruit by having a more
abundant supply of sap : and fourthly,
to renew the productiveness of stocks
from which previous kinds had fuled.

The best modes of grafting are thus
described by Dr. Lindley in his admir-
able Theory of Horticulture : — "■Whip
grnfting is the commonest kind ; it is
performed by heading down a stock,
then paring one side of it bare for the
space of an inch or so, and cutting
down obliquely at the upper end of the
pared part, towards the pith ; the scion
is levelled oblitjuely to a length corre-
sponding with the pared surfice of the
stock, and an incision is made into it
near the upper end of the wound ob-
liquely upwards so as to form a ' tongue,'
which is forced into the corresponding
wound in the stock ; care is then taken

in holes prepared as directed for the
open ground crop of cucumbers. Some
may be inserted beneath pales, walls
or hedges, to be trained regularly over
them on account of their ornamental
appearance. They may be treated in
every respect like the cucumber, only
they do not want so much care. They
require abundance of water in dry
weather. When the runners have e.x-
tended three feet, they may be pegged
down and covered with earth at a joint ;
this will cause the production of roots,
and the longer continuance of the plant
in vigour.

The fruit for seed should be selected
and treated as directed for the cucum-
ber. It is ripe in the course of Sep-
tember or October.

We have retained this article in its
original form as a matter of curiosity,
not only as regards the artificial means
necessary in Great Britain, for the pro-
duction of the pumpkin and the squash,
but also with reference to the manner
in which the latter vegetable is serv-
ed at table. Fn the United States no
person who cultivates a garden, how-
ever small, can be presumed ignorant
as to the culture of these vines, and it
is therefore unnecessary to add a word
of instruction. The pumpkin described
as the Fotiron Jaune is the one known
with us as the mammoth, of which spe-
cimens have been exhibited before the
Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, over
eight feet in circumference.

GOVENIA. Four species. Stove
orchids. G. gardneri an herbaceous
perennial. Division. Sandy peat and
light loam. G.lagfinophora,a.sA swamp
plant in very sandy peat. " Having
filled a twenty- four with about two
inches of crocks, place over them a
layer of spungy peat for two or three
inches more, and then fill it up with
nearly equal quantities of sharp sand
and heath mould, so that the surface is
nearly all sand. Place it near the light
in a cool part of the stove about GO^,
and keep it very wet as long as it con-
tinues growing. It generally flowers in
April or May. Remove to the green-
house after flowering, and keep quite
dry in the stove from October to Feb-
ruary."— Gard. Chron.

GRAFF or GR.\FT. See Scion.
GRAFTING

17

uniting a scion or

GR A

258

GR A

that the bark of the scion is exactly ad- [ Cactaces; the parts of which, ow-
iusted to that of the stock, ing to their succulence, rea-
Fig 62. and the two are bound dily form a union with each Fig. 64.

l^A^

Other.

" A far better method than
whip grafting, but more te-

i.,^ „ap... B «K id'ous, is saddle grafting, in

through the stock to sus- j which the stock is pared ob-
tain the life of the scion ! liquely on both sides till it
■ • ' becomes an inverted wedge.

firmly together

" Here the mere con-
tact of the two enables
the sap flowing upwards

until the latter can de
velop its buds, which then
send downwards their
wood ; at the same time
the cellular system of the
parts in contact unites by
granulations, and when
the wood descends it
passes through the cel-
lular deposit, and holds
the whole together.

" The use of ' tongue-
ing' is merely to steady
the scion and to prevent

and the scion is slit up the
centre, when its sides are
pared down till they fit the
sides of the stock. In this
method the greatest possible
quantity of surface is brought
into contact, and the parts are
mutually so adjusted, that the
ascending sap is freely received
from the stock by the scion,
while at the same time, the
descending sap can flow freely
from the scion into the stock.

its slipping. The"advantage of this mode I Knight, in describing this mode of
of graftinl is the quickness with which operating, has the following observa-
it may be performed ; the disadvantage tions :

is, that the surfaces applied to each <.c The graft first begins its efforts to
other are much smaller than can be unite itself to the stock just at the period
' 1 L_. -.1 «n.,c ...Unr. fho frirmntinn nf a npw interna!

secured by other means.

when the formation of a new interna!

CUreu oy oilier lucaiio. wncu viic n^iiuuii'^i. ^. ..

" It is however, a great improvement | layer of bark commences in the spring,
•i_ _ _ij «^ni,i»> rrf nfH'ntr atill pm- I r,^A «V.ofliiir) vvKifVi apnprafps this laver

upon the old crown grafting, still em-
ployed in the rude unskilful practice of
some continental gardeners, but expel-
led from Great Britain ; which consists
of nothing more than heading down a
stock with an exactly horizontal cut,

and the fluid which generates this layer
of bark, and which also feeds the in-
serted graft, radiates in every direction
from the vicinity of the medulla to the
external surface of the alburnum.
" The graft is of course most advan-

stock wMtn an exacu^ jiuniumui y.^„, a j^jj^ grait is or course mosi auviiii-
and splitting it through the middle, into t^ggously placed when it presents the
which is forced the end of a scion cut' jgrgest surface to receive such fluid, and
into the form of a wedge, when the .-.i„°_ »i.„ a..;^ ;»ooif ;= marlD t<^i rlfviatp

whole are bound together.

— - —' j when the fluid itself is made to deviate
In this jgj^gj j-j-om its natural course. Thi

whole are Douna lugemei. m """least from its natural course. -iiiis
method the split in the stock can hardly j ^^^^^^ place most efficiently when, (as
be made to heal without great care ; | j^^ jj^jg saddle grafting) a graft of nearly

*Vio nninn hptween the I I ~:„., ...:.U iU^ c^t*-!..!.- io /^ivirlorl nfr

Fig. 63.

the union between the
edges of the scion and '
those of the stock is very
imperfect, because the
bark of the former neces-
sarily lies upon the wood
of the latter, except just
at the sides: and from
the impossibility of bring-
ing the two barks in con-
tact, neither the ascend-
ing nor descending cur-
rents of sap are able freely
to intermingle. This plan
is much improved by cutting out the
stock into the form of a wedge, instead
of splitting ; it may, however, be advan-
tageously employed for such plants as

„ g) a graf

equal size with the stock is divided at
its base and made to stand astride the
stock, and when the two divisions of
the graft are pared extremely thin, at
and near their lower extremities, so
that they may be brought into close
contact with the stock (from which but
little bark or wood should be pared off^
by the ligature." — Hort. Trans. 147.

To execute saddle grafting properly,
the scion and stock should be of equal
size ; and where that cannot be, a se-
cond method, in which the scion may
be much smaller than the stock, has
been described by the same great gar-
dener.

This is practised upon small stocks

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259

GRA

almost exclusively in Here-
fordshire; but it is never
attempted till the usual sea-
son of grafting is past, and
till the bark is readily de-
tached from the alburnum.
The head of the stock is
then taken off, by a single
stroke ofthe knife, oblique-
ly, so that the incision com-
mences about the width of
the diameter of the stock,
below the point where the
medulla appears in the sec-
tion, and ends as much
above it upon the opposite
side. The scion, or graft,
which should not exceed in
diameter half that of the
stock, is then to be divided

Chink or Shoulder
Grafting.

Fig. 68.

Root Grafting.
Fig. 69.

^..>- „^ — , „. ^ , By whatever mode the operation be

which should not exceed in performed, the essentials for success
Hi^impt^r hnlf thnt ^f tl,» are, 1. That the same p nj-nft.
parts of the stock and . ° j,'
longitudinally, abouttwo inchesupwards 1 scion should he brought h f
from its lower end, into two unequal into contact as much as

possible — bark to bark,
and alburnum to albur-
num. 2. That as the
nourishment has to be
afforded to the graft from
the alburnum ofthe stock
with which it is brought
in contact, this should not
be exposed to the air for
one minute longer than

Fig. 70.

divisions, by passing the knife upwards
just in contact with one side ofthe me-
dulla. The stronger division of the
graft is then to be pared thin at its lower
extremity, and introduced, as in crown
grafting, between the bark and wood of
the stock ; and the more slender divi-
sion is fitted to the stock upon the op-
posite side.

" The graft, consequently, stands
astride the stock, to which it attaches j is necessary to insert the
itself firmly upon each side, and which ; previously prepared graft,
it covers completely in a single season. ' for if the surface becomes
Grafts of the apple and pear rarely ever dry in the slightest de-
fail in this method of grafting, which gree, vegetation on that part is perma-
may be practised with equal success i nently destroyed ; and thirdly, that the
with young wood in July, as soon as it air and wet should be excluded after

has become moderately firm and ma-
ture."— Theory of Horticulture.

The other modes of grafting require
no description, but will be best under-

the scion has been inserted, otherwise
the dryness of the parts, or the dilution
of the sap, will prevent the union. To
effect the desired exclusion, the entire

stood by a reference to the following ! wound must be inclosed with grafting

sketches.

Cleft Grafting.
Fig. 66.

Side Grafting.
Fig. 67.

clay or grafting wax, the best recipes
for which are these : —

Grafting Clay is best made of two
parts cow-dung; three parts common
clay ; and one part awns or beards of
barley, kneaded together thoroughly.

Grafting Wax. — Moist bast is usually
employed tor closing the wound of the
stock, but it is far preferable to use
worsted, and over this a coating of the
grafting wax, made according to the
following recipe : —

Burgundy pitch 1 oz.

Common pitch 4

Yellow wax 4

Tallow or lard 2

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260

GRA

Nitre (carbonate of potash,
powdered) 1

The same composition spread upon
slips of linen makes Grafting Plaster,
frequently used by amateur budders.

G R A M M A N T H E S chloraflora.
Stove annual. Seeds. Loam and lime
rubbish.

GRAMMATOPHYLLUM. Two spe-
cies. Stove orchids. Division. Wood.

GRANGERIA6or6oniV(J. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

GRAPE-VINE (Vitis vinifera). Of
this fruit ninety-nine varieties are culti-
vated in the Chiswick Garden.

Open-wall culture. — Varieties best
suited for this, according to the experi-
ence of Mr. Hoare, are : —

Black Hamburgh.
Black Prince.
Esperione.
Black Muscadine.
Miller's Burgundy.
Claret Grape.
Black Frontignan.
Grizzly Frontignan.
White Frontignan.
White Muscadine.
Malmsey Muscadine.
White Sweetwater.

Eighty-six of the varieties have been
cultivated at Wilbeck within the last
seven years, but only about fourteen
found of superior excellence, and many
of the others were mere synonymes.
Mr. Tiliery, from this long course of ex-
perience and observation, recommends
the following selections: —

''For the Earliest House. — The Pur-
ple Constantia, or Frontignan ; White
Frontignan; Black Prince ; Dutch, or
Stillward's Sweetwater; Black Ham-
burgh ; and Tripoli.

" For Stove. — White Muscat of
Alexandria; Purple Constantia ; White
Frontignan ; Grizzly Frontignan ; Black
Muscat; and Black Damascus.

" For Green-house. — Black Ham-
burgh ; Tripoli; Grove-end Sweetwa-
ter; and Muscadine.

" For Latest House. — West's St. Pe-
ter's, and Charlesworth's Tokay.

''For a Single House with fourteen
rafters. — One Purple Constantia; one
White Frontignan ; one Royal Musca-
dine, or Chasselas D'Arboyce ; three
Muscats; three Black Hamburghs, or
Tripolis; three West's St. Peter's; and
two Black Princes.

" For Pot-Culture, to cover in during
April and May. — Purple Constantia and
White Frontignan." — United Gar. Jour.
Until recently but few houses for the
exclusive growth of grapes under glass,
had been erected in the United States.
The success which attended the effort
in the vicinity of Philadelphia, Boston,
and other cities, has excited emulation,
and at this day (1847) one of the most
attractive features of our Horticultural
exhibitions, are grapes grown under
glass, not exclusively through the agen-
cy of fire-heat, but in many instances
by the aid of the glass alone.

Propagation. — Layering is the most
certain and most expeditious mode of
propagating the grape-vine. In the first
part of March cut away the fourth bud
of the shoot to be layered, pass the
shoot through the hole in the bottom of
garden-pot, fill this with light rich earth,
so that the wound of that fourth bud is
in the centre of the earth, and two buds
above its surface ; fix the pot firmly to
the wall, so as not to be disturbed ; keep
the earth constantly moist with liquid
manure, giving a little every day, and
a little moss tied over the surface and
round the sides of the pot to check
evaporation. Cut away the layer from
the parent in the last week of August;
and, turning it out from the pot, with-
out at all disturbing the earth, plant it
where it is to remain, and water it
plentifully with liquid manure until the
leaves begin to fall.

Cuttings. — At the time of autumn-
pruning select some middle-sized, well-
ripened shoots, cut off lengths of six
buds, keep them in moist sand through
the winter, and, at the end of March,
cut them in half, remove the two lower
buds, and plant them under a wall hav-
ing an eastern aspect, leaving the upper
bud just above the surface, and cover-
ing them with a hand-glass. The soil
must be light, rich, and well pulverized,
pressed close round the cuttings, and
kepi constantly moist with liquid manure
until the leaves fall in autumn. The
surface round them should be stirred
at least twice a week to allow the air
unimpeded entrance.

Coiling is only a peculiar mode of
propagating by cuttings suggested by
Mr. Mearns, whose practice has been
epitomised thus by Dr. Lindley: —

" In the propagation of vines by coil-
. ing, Mr. Mearns' practice, if single rods

G R A

261

are contemplated, is not to leave them
longer than four or five feet, and to re-
move all the buds but the uppermost.
These rootless cuttings are coiled into
long narrow pots, being so placed that
the bud of the apes of the shoot, al-
though the highest part, is still two
inches beneath the surface of the soil;
at the same time sufficient room is left
beneath the coil for the roots to extend
themselves. These cuttings being put
in between the middle of January and
the end of March, are plunged at once
into a hot-bed between 90^ and lOOo,
where they remain until they require
more pot-room. They are then shifted,
and placed in a suitable situation until
again excited in November or December.
When the cutting begins to grow, the
shoot is trained upright, until it is seven
or eight or ten joints long, when the top
is pinched off. After this stopping the
laterals are displaced as they appear;
and if the vines have done well, two or
three of the buds will also be excited
at the same time, in which case the
shoots are cut down to the lowest ex-
cited eye. The single shoot is then
trained upright and divested of all late-
rals and tendrils. None of the plants
are allowed to grow longer than from
four to six feet, at which length the tops
are pinched off, the uppermost lateral,
which is also stopped at the first joint,
being left to carry off the remaining
sap.

" At this season the plants are re-
moved to a warm and sheltered situa-
tion in the open air ; and when the
leaves fall they are headed down to
one, two, or three joints, according to
their strength, and are placed against a
northern aspect. When cold weather
sets in they are taken back to a shel-
tered spot, and plunged in the ground
to protect the roots, the pots being
mulched over, and the rods covered to
protect them from frost.

" When these yearling potted vines
are brought early into action, it is re-
commended to bow a piece of wire
above the pot with both its ends run-
ning down the inside, of sufficient height
to allow the whole length of the stem to
be attached to it, as represented in the
accompanying figure.

" The buds from the stem being thus
bent, break more regularly ; and when
this is effected the vine is united, and
secured to an upright stake or sloping

trellis. To prevent evaporation the stem
is wrapped loosely in moss, which is
kept constantly moist until the grapes
are set, when it is removed. The plants,
up to this period, are encouraged by
bottom-heat and shifting; and the quan-
tity of fruit is regulated by the size of
the pot and the quality of the vine." —
Card. Chron.

Seed. — To raise new varieties seed
from the largest, earliest, and best rip-
ened berries must be separated fron»
their pulp, and kept until the February
following; then to be sown in "pots
filled with light fresh mould, and plunged
in a moderately warm hot-bed. Tliey
will come up in four or six weeks; and
when the plants are about six inches
high, they should be transplanted singly
into forty-eights, and afterwards into
pots of larger size.

"Water gently as circumstances re-
quire; allow abundance of light and
air, and carefully avoid injuring any of
the leaves. Cut down the plants everv
autumn to good buds, and sulfer only
one of these to extend itself in the fol-
lowing spring. Shift into larger pots,
as occasion requires, till they have
produced fruit. This, under good ma-
nagement, will take place in the fourth
or fifth year, when the approved sorts
should be selected, and the rest de-
stroyed, or used as stocks on which to
graft or inarch good sorts." — Enc. of
Gard.

If a hybrid grape be required, the
stamens of the female parent must be
cut away with very sharp-pointed scis-
sors before their anthers have burst.

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262

GRA

and the pollen be applied to the stigma j " When such portions of the latter
from the male desired to be the other , as are shortened for receiving the grafts
parent. No very superior varieties have I have made a bit of shoot, graft as you
yet rewarded those who have attempted [ would other fruit trees, taking care to

thus to improve the grape.

preserve the shoot at the top in claying.

left this record of his experiments on
the same mode of propagation : — "I
conceived it probable that the success
of the Roman cultivators in grafting
their vines might arise from the selec-

Budding. — A good authority thus and until the buds on the scion have

states his mode: — , pushed, then shorten it back. Inarching

" About the first week in March I may be performed any time after the

perform the operation : or, as soon as vines have started, so far as to bleed."

I perceive the sap begin to rise, I cut — Gard. Chron.

from a branch, about three inches in Mr. Knight, the late eminent pre-
length, an eye having attached as much sident of the Horticultural Society, has
wood as I could possibly get with it;
at each end of the eye, I cut off about
a quarter of an inch of the upper bark,
making the ends quite thin ; I next mea-
sure off the exact length of the bud, on

the base of the vine intended to be | tion of grafts similar to their cuttings,
budded, and make a nick slanting up- and the result of the following experi-
ward at the upper part, and another ment leads me to believe my conjecture
slanting downward at the bottom. I to be well founded. I selected three
then take the piece neatly out, so that cuttings of the Black Hamburgh Grape,
the bud may fit nicely in ; and by mak- each having at its base one joint of two
ing the nick as stated above, each end years old of wood : these were inserted
of the bud is covered by the bark of the ; in, or rather fitted to branches of nearly
shoot. I bind the buds firmly round i the same size, but of greater age ; and
with matting, and clay it, taking care, all succeeded most perfectly. The clay
however, that the clay does not cover which surrounded the base of the grafts
the eye of the bud : I then tie it round was kept constantly moist, and the
with moss, and keep it constantly moisture thus supplied to the graft ope-
damp ; and as the sap rises in the vine, j rated very beneficially, at least, if it

I was not essential to the success of the
operation. A very skilful gardener in my
vicinity, to whom I mentioned my inten-
tion of trying the foregoing experiment,
I was completely successful by a some-
what different method. He used grafts
similar to mine, but his vine grew under
: the roof of the hot-house, in which sit-
uation he found it difficult to attach
such a quantity of clay as would supply
the requisite degree of moisture to the
graft ; and he therefore supported a pot
under each graft, upon which he raised
the mould in heaps sufficiently high to
cover the grafts and supply them with
moisture. The grafts which I used

the bud begins to swell.

" When the vine commences to push
out young shoots, take the top ones off,
in order to throw a little more sap into
the bud, and as you perceive it getting
stronger, take off more young shoots,
' and so continue until you have taken
off all the young shoots. Budding can
only be performed where the long-rod
system is practised, as in that case you
have the power of confining the sap to
the bud, which will grow vigorously.
As soon as you perceive this, cut the
vine down to the bud. Budding has the
advantage over grafting, by not leaving
an unsightly appearance where the bud

was inserted. I always allow the mat- j consisted of about two inches old wood,

ting to remain on until about the month
of September."

Grafting. — "The best method," says
Dr. Lindley, " of grafting vines is to
shorten the branch, or shoot, at the
winter pruning to the most eligible place
for inserting the graft. The graft should
be kept in sufficiently moist soil till the
time of performing the operation, and
for a week previous in the same tem-
perature as that which the vines to be
operated upon are growing.

and five of annual wood, by which
means the junction of the new and old
wood, at which point cuttings most rea-
dily emit shoots and receive nutriment,
was placed close to the head of the
stock, and a single bud only was ex-
posed to vegetate." — Knight's Papers.
As the practice is rather precarious,
I will add further, the observations of
Mr. Braddick : — " I feel confident in
stating that healthy vines may be suc-
cessfully grafted with young wood of

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263

GRA

the preceding year's growth, from the westerly point or even due S., exposes
time that the shoots of the stocks which the vine to the strong winds which pre-
the grafts are to be put upon have made vail from the W. and S.W.
four or five eyes, until mid-summer. Soil. — The best soil is a light, rich,
with every prospect of the grafts grow- sandy loam, eighteen inches deep, rest-
ing, and without the least danger of the ing on a drainage of twelve inches of
stocks suffering by bleeding. They may bricklayers' rubbish,
likewise be grafted with shoots of the Manures. — The richest manures, such
same summer's growth, worked in the as night-soil, blood, bone-dust, and
rind of the young wood, from the time butchers' offal, are most beneficial to
that the young bunches of grapes be- vines, and should be added annually to
come visible on the stocks till July, : the border in which they grow. During
out of doors, or till a month later under | the time of their being in bloom, aslight

glass. The operation must not be per-
formed later than the periods here spe-
cified, because time is necessary for the
young shoots of the grail to become
hard and ripen before winter." — Hort.
Soc. Trans.

trench in a circuit three feet from the
stem should be opened, and the con-
tents of the house slop pail, soapy
water, and urine, be poured into it
daily.

Walls, for the grape-vine, need never

Single Eyes, or Buds. — Mr. Appleby be higher than eight feet, and the more

gives the following directions for this substantial the better, as they cool

mode of propagation: — " Take a single slowly in proportion to their thickness,

bud with about half an inch of wood on ! They should be painted annually with

each side of it, and insert it in a pot a creamy mixture of one part lime and

four inches in diameter, filled with light two parts soot, to fill up the nail holes,

rich soil, covering the bud half an inch, the harbours of insects, to destroy moss,

and pressing the earth firmly about it, and to increase the warmth of the wall,

place the pots in a bark bed, or dung Although a dark-coloured body radi-

bed covered with saw dust; either of ates heat, and consequently cools more

these will do, provided the heat
moderate. It will soon shoot up above
the soil and begin to send out roots ;
water very sparingly, for a time in-
creasing the quantity as it requires it.
Air is given on all mild days to make
it become stout and of a good colour.
As soon as the roots reach the sides of

quickly than a similar body of a light
colour, yet this is prevented if a proper
screen is placed before it. (See Shelters.)
A coping should project from the top
of the wall four inches wide, if this be
four feet high, and an additional inch
for every foot of height.

Pruning and Training. — The vine

the pots, shift into large pots, which bears on wood one year old only, and
operation may be done thrice during this knowledge must control thes^ope-

the growing season ; it will require a
stick to support it, and all the super-
fluous leaves and tendrils removed ;
ripen the wood by keeping ^s dry an
atmosphere in the pit or frame as pos-
sible during the latter part of the sea-
son, endeavouring to effect this without
any reduction of temperature, which
should average about 70° Fahrenheit.

rations, for after a branch has borne it
is of no further use ; and in pruning, a
chief object consequently, is to get rid
of all the old wood that can be spared.
As Mr. Clement Hoarse's practice is
founded upon this, I adopt hia rules
without any modification. He obtains,
he says: — "All the fruit of a vine from
a few shoots trained at full length, in-

When the wood is sufficiently ripened, stead of from a great number of spurs
keep the plant in a cool house or frame, or short shoots. To provide these shoots

just protected from frost until the plant-
ing season." — Card. Chron.

WALL CULTURE.

Aspect. — The object to be obtained
is not only warmth, but shelter from

the former bearers are cut down to very
short spurs at the autumnal pruning,
and at the same time a sufficient number
of shoots are left at whole length to
produce fruit in the following year; at
the succeeding autumn these latter are

the wind, which is injurious to the vine cut down to very short spurs, and the
at all times of its growth. To secure < long shoots that have pushed from the
this desideratum, the best aspect is S.E. ' spurs are trained at whole length as
Even E. by N. is a good aspect. Any \ before, and so on annually in alternate

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264

GRA

The fourth spring in February remove
the 1, 2, 4, 5, and 6 buds, bending the
shoots down horizontally thus:

Fig. 73.

succession. This method recommends i
itself by its simplicity, by the old wood
of the vine being annually got rid of,
by the small number of wounds inflicted
in the pruning, by the clean and hand-
some appearance of the vine, and by
the great ease with which it is managed,
in consequence of its occupying but a
small portion of the wall. i

" 1st. In pruning, always cut up- '
wards, and in a sloping direction.

"2d. Always leave an inch of blank
wood beyond the terminal bud, and letj
the cut be on the opposite side of the ;
bud. i

"3d. Prune so as to leave as few and training the shoots from buds 3 and
wounds as possible, and let the surface 7 as there represented. Prune and train
of every cut be perfectly smooth. ] as before directed during the summer,

"4th. In cutting out an old branch, j removing also superfluous shoots, and
prune it even with the parent limb, that , in November cut back a and c to about
the wound may quickly heal. eight or tvi-elve buds according to the

" 5tli. Prune so as to obtain thequan- I stiength of the vine; and 6 and d so as
tity of fruit desired on the smallest I to leave only one bud on each. In the
number of shoots possible. \fif'^ spring train the shoots from these

" 6th. Never prune in frosty weather,
nor when a frost is expected.

" 7th. Never prune in the months of
March, April, or May. Pruning in either
of these months causes bleeding, and
occasions thereby a wasteful and an in-
jurious expenditure of sap.

" 8th. Let the general autumnal prun-
ing take place as soon after the 1st of
October as the gathering of the fruit
will permit.

"Lastly, use a pruning-knife of the
best description, and let it be, if pos-
sible, as sharp as a razor." — Hoare on
the V'qie.

In the spring next after the planting,
two buds only having been left, reinove
the one which shoots the most weakly,
and rub off all others but
Fig. 72. that one selected to re-
main as often as they ap-
pear. Nail the shoot to

single buds in the same waving form as
before.

" The vine," says Mr. Hoare, to
whose valuable work I am indebted
for most of the preceding directions,
" has now assumed the form which it
is permanently to retain, and the man-
ner in which it is trained may be con-
sidered as the commencement of a sys-
tem of alternately fruiting two shoots,
and training two at full length for bear-
ing wood in the following year; which
method may be continued every year
without any alteration until the capacity
of the vine is equal to the maturation
of more fruit than can possibly be borne
by two single shoots, which, on an aver-
age, may be estimated at sixty pounds
weight annually. Several years must
elapse before this will be the case ; but
when it is, the arms may be easily

engthened by the training in of a shoot
the wall as often as it ex- \ at their extremities, and managing it in
tends six inches beyond I the same manner as when the arms of
the previous shred. In i the vine first formed. It is very advis-
November cut the vine so | able, however, that the vine should not
as to leave only two buds. I be suffered to extend itself further on
In the second spring ma- 1 the wall, for in such case, the bearing
shoots emitted from the centre are sure
to decline in strength ; whereas, by
confining the dimensions of the vine to
a single arm on each side of the stem,
and each arm to the support and nou-
rishment of two branches only, the very
best description of bearing shoots will
never fail to be generated close at home,

nage as before, and in the
November cut down to
three buds; the vine will
then appear thus : Fig. 72.

The third spring retain two shoots,
treating as before. In September pinch
off their tops, and in November prune
them so as to retain some buds.

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265

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and these, as the vine advances in age, I seasons. Vines and green-house plants
will become prolific almost beyond con- ' do not agree very well ; but under such a
ception. I have often ripened as many system they may be kept from quarrel-
as seven full sized bunches of grapes on \ ling much." — Card. Chron.
two shoots which have pushed from a |

single bud, on vines managed in this vines in hot-house.

manner. Indeed, those who have been Varieties. — The proportions the dif-
accustomcd to permit their vines to ; ferent vines should bear to each other,
cover a large space of walling, and to in order to secure the best succession
possess a great number of branches, and a constant supply, are three Black
can scarcely imagine how much easier a Hamburgh's; two White Muscats of
vine is managed, and with what cer- Alexandria; one White and one Black
tainty the fruit is increased in quantity, Frontignan ; one Black Prince, and one
and improved in quality." — Hoare on Black St. Peter's.
the Vine. Construction of Vinery. — For the

Thinning. — When the vine has be- general principles applicable to the
come fruitful, in August, it must have construction of this and all other hot-
the berries of each branch thinned until houses, see the titles Stove, Trellis, ^-c.
not more than half their original num- '. Borders. — These may be formed
ber remain. It is best done with a ' eight feet broad, of a soil similar to
sharp-pointed pair of scissors, and care that recommended for the open wall
being taken to remove the smallest vines, with the same attention to ma-
berries. This increases the weight and nuring and drainage,
excellence of the bunches, for two ber- ' Planting and Pruning. — The prac-
ries will always outweigh four grown tice of Mr. Mearns in this particular is
on the same branchlet of a bunch, be- very good : —

sides being far handsomer, and having , " The vines are planted inside the
more juice as compared with husks. , house at two feet and a half apart,
The average weight of the bunches on ! nearly close to the front wall, and are
a vine may be taken, when ripe, at headed down to within a foot of the
half a pound each, and with this data soil. One shoot only is allowed to pro-
it is easy to carry into practice Mr. ] ceed from each plant, which at the end
Clement Hoare's excellent rule for pro- [ of the first season is cut down to the
portioning the crop to the size of the second or third eye. Next year two
vine. If its stem, measured just above leading shoots are encouraged, the
the ground, be three inches in circum- strongest of which is stopped when it
ference, it may bear 5 lbs. weight of; has grown three or four joints beyond
grapes. ' the middle of the root', and the weaker,

3^ inches 10 lbs. after having grown three or four feet,

4 " 15 for the purpose of strengthening the

4J '•■ 20 I eyes. At the fall of the leaf, the lead-

5 " 2.5 ing shoots are reduced, the main one

And so five pounds additional for every to the length of the middle of the roof,
haif inch of increased circumference. ^ and the lower one to the third eye. In

I the third season, one leading shoot is
VINES IN GREEN-HOUSE. j trained in from each shoot, and from

Training here must be the same as i the leading shoot fruit-bearing side
in the hot-house, and the points besides \ shoots are produced. One bunch is left
to be attended to are : — on each, and the shoot stopped at one

" 1. To train the vines to the rafters, [ or two joints above it. No side shoots
or otherwise, so that they shall not are allowed to proceed from the spur,
overshadow the interior before the end ' the leading shoot from which is to be-
of May. 2. To empty the green-house come the bearing wood for the next
of all green-house plants after that pe- year. Thus, in the autumn of the third
riod, and to take every possible pains season the lower part of the house is
to get the wood ripe ; you cannot have furnished with a crop of grapes from
grapes without well-ripened wood. If shoots proceeding from wood of the
vines are very late in growing, they ; preceding year, and parallel to this
will reiiuirc fire-heat in autumn, in j bearing shoot on each vine is the young
order to ripen their wood, in many | shoot for the next year's crop.

GR A

266

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" In winter, the shoot from the ex- i of every month till April. Where there
tremity of the bearing branch is cut off, are but three houses, it will be early
at the top of the roof, or within twelve \ enough to commence the first house in
or fifteen inches of it, and the shoot j November, the second in February,
from the spur is cut down to the mid- | and the third in April. To cause the
die of the roof, and all the spurs which vines to break equally all the length of
had borne the grapes are now cut out. | the shoot, tie them down to the front
Each vine is now furnished with two i windows, until the buds are all expand-
shoots of bearing wood, a part of old ed, that one part of it may not be more

barren wood, and a spur for producing
a young shoot the following year. In
the fourth summer a full crop is pro-
duced, both in the upper and lower
half of the house. The longer shoot
bearing on the upper half of its length,
and the shorter on its whole length; a
leading shoot is produced from the short
shoot, and another from the spur

excited than another.

" When every bud has pushed, care-
fully separate the vines one by one;
and as it is convenient, regulate the
shoots, stop them, and tliin the number
of branches, and do all that is required.
Then tie them up loosely to the rafter;
and should they hang down a foot from
the glass, it is an advantage, especially

" In the pruning season of the fourth I during the early part of the season.'

year, the centre shoot is entirely re-
moved, and replaced by the side shoot,
now the whole length of the roof, and
this side shoot is in its turn supplanted
by the shoot from the spur, while a spur
is prepared to succeed it.

" Summer Pruning. — Mr. Mearns
gives the following directions : — ' Stop
the bearing branches at the bunch, in

Syringing and Steaming. — " During
the time of forcing the vine (unless they
are in blossom) and the ripening of the
fruit, syringe them freely with rain-
water, morning and evening, all over;
also steam the houses by pouring water
on the pipes or flues, to keep up a
moisture in the air. It is beneficial to
the growth of the plant, swells the ber-

stead of the next joint above it, which \ ries, and keeps down the red spider
is the usual practice; for I found that] While the vines are in blossom, refrain
the fruit did equally well, and it divest- I from syringing, but use the steam freely,
ed the branch of an incumbrance, while ; " When the berries begin to colour,
it allowed a much larger portion of light also cease syringing; but use the steam
to come into the house, together with a a fortnight longer, though only at night

more free circulation of air among the
fruit and young wood. I blind all the
eyes on each fruit spur as soon as they
push above a joint or two, before I
pinch them back, always cautiously re-
taining one eye ; and am particularly
cautious that nothing should happen to
injure the leaf that accompanies the
bunch, for if that is lost, the fruit of
course will come to nothing."' — Hort.
Soc. Trans.
Forcing. — This is sometimes com

As soon as the grapes are nearly ripe,
keep as dry an atmosphere as possible,
both to give the fruit a good flavour,
and to ripen the wood."

Covering the Border. — "This in the
early part of the forcing season is ab-
solutely necessary, using either light
horse-litter, or fresh-gathered leaves.
No frost must be allowed to reach the
stems or roots ; if it does, the vines
will droop when the sun shines, and
the bunches will be crippled, and per-

menced in September, but the close of i haps never come out properly. A tar-
ihe next month is sufficiently early. ' paulin is useful to cover the litter and
Mr. Appleby, of Macclesfield, gives dung, to keep off the heavy rains and
the following very full and excellent snow."

directions: — "In places where there 1 Temperature. — " Commence forcing
are a number of houses devoted to the I the vine with a low temperature. The
vine, it is possible to have ripe grapes I first week keep up the heat to 50o, the
all the year round. To accomplish this second to 60°, the third to 65°, and the

completely, six houses are necessary
though it may in some degree be done
with three. In the former case, the
first house ought to be started at the
end of October, the second on the first
of December, and so on, the first day

fourth to 70 Night temperature about
10° lower. A good rule is 60o for vines
in leaf, and 70^ when blooming and
ripening fruit ; the night temperature
may then be 20° lower."

Setting the Fruit. — " To effect the

GR A

267

GR A

setting of the fruit, and more especially
in the earlier part of the forcing season,
use a camel-hair pencil to disperse the
pollen on the stigmas. Some kinds of
grapes have very little pollen, while
others have plenty to spare. In this
case take a sheet of white paper, and
hold it under the bunch that has abund-
ance of pollen, gently shake the bunch,
and then with the camel-hair pencil ap-
ply the pollen to such kinds as are deti-
cient."

Thinning the Berries. — As soon as
the berries are set and begin to swell,
it is time to thin them. For this opera-
tion there are proper scissors, with long
handles and short blades. Provided
with these, some good soft matting, and
with something to catch the berries in.

the tarpaulin is the best, as it keeps
them dry, and of course renders them
more able to endure frost." — Gard.
Chron.

Vines in Pots. — The first week in
February is the best time for planting
the cuttings of vines in pots, to remain
in cultivation in them. If intended to
be fruited next season, plant the cut-
tings in thirty-twos, selecting well-
ripened shoots, with only one plump
bud, and cutting the shoot at each end
down to about one inch and a half of
the bud. Bury this bud in the earth,
composed of equal parts of fresh light
turfy soil and decayed leaves. Plunge
in a bottom heat of 90° ; temperature
of frame 60o to 90°. In April, shift to
the fruiting pots, twos or fours, accord-

(which make excellent vinegar or tarts, j ing to the strength of plant desired.
&c.,) commence the operation by tying : Soil, two parts light turfy loam, and one
up the shoulders of such bunches as | part old night-soil. Temperature, 60°
require it, to the wires on each side of j to 80°. Place the pots so near the
the rafter ; or, if the bunches are very roof, that the shoots may be at once
large, fasten some thin narrow lath to trained near the glass as they advance.

the rafter, to tie the shoulders to.

Best length for the shoots, from four to

Some persons use a thin piece of! six feet, though they will bear even ten
Jath notched at each end, to prop the | feet ; therefore stop each when a foot
shoulders off from the main body of the j longer than required for next season,
bunch; but I do not like this plan so j Manure water must be employed to
well as the matting, the props being apt i sustain the growth of the vines, and

to drop out

In order to have large berries, thin
very freely, so much so, that the bunches
look like slieletons. Of course thin ac-
cording to the kind ; some sorts under
the best management do not swell to
such a size as others ; hence it is ne-
cessary to know the mediu.-n size to
which every variety will swell, and thin
accordingly.

Watering the Roots. — Use manure
water alternately with clear water. If
the border be well watered once a week,
it is sufficient. Remember to place
boards to walk on, and as soon as the
water has sunk in, and the surface be

every means adopted to ripen the wood.
Early in September, the pots may be
placed out of doors, on the north side
of a wall, and laid on their sides, to
hasten the vines into a state of rest.
In November, they may be returned
under glass, and forcing commenced
to ripen a crop by the end of March.
If strong, and grown in No. 2 pots,
seven bunches may be left upon a Ham-
burgh, eight upon a Muscadine, but
u[)on weaker plants only about halt
those numbers.

Mr. W. Stothard, gardener at Chant-
rey House, in 1841, gives these direc-
tions : — " When the vines that are let

comes rather dry, go over it with a into the house have reached the top of
Dutch hoe and rough rake; the more { the rafters, instead of stopping the lead-

frequently it is stirred the less water it
will take ; if, however, it is so smooth
as to let the water run off, instead of
sinking in, point the surface over with
a fork and leave it rough.

Covering the Vines in Winter. —
" When the vines are not covered with
glass in consequence of other fruits
being grown in the house, protect them
from severe frost ; hay-bands may be
used, and long straight wheat straw ;

ing shoot, as is commonly done, and
often too soon, which causes the eyes
to burst, and renders them useless for
the succeeding year, turn the shoot
back, and having ready a pot of suitable
size, well drained and filled w'ith fresh
turfy loam and rotted dung, of equal
parts, place it upon the back shelf or
wall of the pit, and as soon as the young
shoot has attained a sufficient length to
be laid into the pot, cut out two or three

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268

GR A

eyes, and as many of its leaves, and I linings of the pine pits select the most
scrape oft' a little of the bark the whole decayed parts of the manure,
length of the part intended for roots, ; "I usually allow the shoots to run to
which is bent into the pot, and covered ! the extent of thirteen eyes, and then

with mould to the depth of six or seven
inches. No attention is required, ex-
cepting to train the shoot as it advances
in growth, and keep the mould in the
pot a little moist, to encourage the
emission of roots, which will appear in
a fortnight or three weeks, and soon
fill the pot. When the shoot is laid in
the pot, allow it to grow from four to
eight feet long, according to the strength
of the parent vine, to which leave it
attached until it has done growing, and
perfectly ripened its wood

stop them.

" By the middle of September the
wood becomes ripened, and I then
prune them back to the ninth eye, and
remove them from the pinery to the
open air, setting them under a south
wall, on bricks placed edgewise, so as
to admit free drainage. On the first of
November, I generally take in fifty-pots
for forcing; (this I have occasionally
done on the first of October ;) when they
are washed with soft sonp and sulphur.
After all the eyes have shown fruit,

"Should there not be a sufficient I select from six to eight of the best
quantity of leaders, place pots under I bunches to remain, and pluck off" the
the rafters at mostconvenient situations, | others, never allowing one eye to bear
and likewise on the front flue; but the j more than one bunch. I syringe the

shoots that are laid in these pots never
suffer to exceed five feet in length.
When the plants are severed from the
parentvines, put them out under a wall,
where they are protected from frosts,
and take into the house as required for
forcing; at that time shift into pots
about a foot over and fourteen inches
deep, to remain until the fruit is cut,
after which they may be thrown away,
sure of a fresh supply of plants every
year by the same process." — Card.
Chron.

Mr. H. Burn, gardener of Tottenham
Park, gives the following particulars of
his mode of cultivating the vine in pots :
— " I invariably set the eyes in thumb
pots on the first of February, and putting
moss about two and a half inches deep
on the flue at the back of the pine pits,
I place the pot upon it, keeping the
moss always moist.

" As soon as the bud or eye has grown
and become well furnished with roots,
I repot into sixty-sized pots, and con-
tinue afterwards to shift as fast as the
pots become filled with roots ; from
sixties to forty-eights, thirty-twos, twen-
ty-fours, sixteens, and twelve-sized pots
successively ; and lastly, into bushel-
pots, which I have made for the purpose.
I encourage rapidity of growth as much
as possible, by feeding them with liquid
manure made from cows' and deers'
dung ; and during the whole time keep
a good drainage at the bottom of the
pots. The soil I used is nothing more
than three-fourths strong turfy loam,
and -one-fourth horse-dung ; from the

vines gently with warm water three
times a week, and water thern twice a
week with the liquid manure. Should
they, however, occasionally require
more moisture, I give them nothing
more than soft water about milk warm.
I invariably fruit annually from 100 to
120 vines, taking in after the first fifty
the rest in succession.

Fig. 74.

" The above engraving represents a
transverse section of the vinery, with
bed for tree leaves to decay and heat;
frame-work for the support of front
trough sixteen inches wide at the top,
and ten inches deep, and the wire un-
der the rafters on which the vines are
trained." — United Card, and Land
Steward's Journ,

GRA

269

GRA

Vines in Frames. — We have the fol- i cumulates in the interior of the leaves,

lowing information on this mode of cul-
ture : — " It is well adapted for gardens
where the quantity of glass is limited,
and is practised liy Mr. Dawson, gar-
dener to Lord Ducie, at the Hoo, Hert-
fordshire. About the first week in April,
a bed of partly decayed dung, to which
a small quantity of raw material is add-

and swells them up in the form of warts.
The presence of the latter on tlie under
side only, is owing to perspiration from
the vines, taking place principally by
that surface, which is, moreover, much
softer and looser in texture than the
upper surface." — Gard. Chron.
liust. — The rust of the vine is a dis-

cd , so as to produce a slight heat, is, ease which attacks the grapes, covering
made at about eighteen inches from the them with a tough brown skin, which

wall in front of the selected vines.

is incapable of natural extension, and

" This bed is built sufficiently deep | which stops their growth. Wherever
to admit of its being about three feet i the disease appears, the crop is injured
high, after settling. The frame used by j or even ruined. Various causes have
Mr. Dawson separates into two portions, I been suggested as the origin of this
so that the lower part can be first placed j disease ; but the true origin I believe
upon the bed. It contains a trellis upon j to be a sudden unhealthy reduction of
which the vines are trained, fixed about temperature whilst the grapes are young.
a foot above the surface of the dung. From one frosty night I have seen the
The upper portion of the frame can be \ fruit of apple trees infected with a very

afterwards put on and secured to the
lower by small brackets. The advan-
tage of having the frames constructed
in this way is the ease and safety with
which the vine can be taken in ; since,
in introducing the shoots of a vine
through a hole cut in the back of a
frame of ordinary construction, the

similar induration of the skin.

Bleeding. — If pruned late in the spring
the vine is very liable to bleed at this
season. A red hot iron applied to the
wound until it is partially charred will
stop the effusion of sap for a time, and
to render the cure permanent, the place
should be well rubbed and coated with

buds would be liable to be rubbed off.: a paste made of newly burnt lime and
No more care is required, except in \ grease. This hardens and forms an eC-
stopping, thinning, kdt Air is given fectual plaster.

freely, but no linings to the bed are re- ' Shrivelling arises in the berries from
quired. In severe weather a covering j a want of sap. It is caused by several
is put on, but this is not generally re- modes of bad cultivation, as excess of
sorted to. By pursuing the above me- | wet and cold to the roots; over-heating
thod, fruit of good quality has been cut ^ and subsequent reduction of tempera-

by the latter end of August, for which
Mr. Dawson has obtained several prizes
at local horticultural exhibitions." —
Gard. Chron.

DISEASES.

Shanking is a moist gangrene, at-
tacking and destroying the stalk of the
grapes, arising apparently from the tem-
perature of the soil being unsuitably
below that in which the branches are
vegetating.

IVarts on Leaves. — Dr. Lindley says,
" The appearance of warts on their
under side, is most probably caused by
damp atmosphere and rich soil, and
may be conceived to arise thus: the
water which the leaves derive from the
stem, and absorb from the atmosphere,
is unable to escape again, in conse-

ture in the house : and by thinning the
leaves erroneously.

Insects infesting the Vine. — See Scale,
Thrips, Wasp, ^-c.

GRAPE HYACINTH. Muscari.

GRAPE PEAR. Amelanchier Bo-
tryapium.

GRASS MOTH. See Charcsas.

GRASS-PLOT, correctly speaking, is
a parterre, or beds of flowers, arranged
with grass-turf between them, instead
of gravel. It is usually confounded with
Lawn, which see.

GRASS RAKE. See Lawn Rake.

GRATIOLA. Six species. Hardy
or green-house herbaceous perennials.
Division. Rich moist soil.

GRAVEL WALKS, like all other
Walks, (vide,) reqmre a good suhstratum
quence of the air that surrounds them of drainage, and the facing of about five
being continually loaded with moisture; inches deep of gravel. It must have no
the result of this is, that the water ac- stones mixed with it larger than good-

GR A

270

GRE

sized marbles, and about one-fourth of
it must be much smaller. If a portion
of clay is by nature or art incorporated
with the gravel, it will bind more firmly,
and present when rolled a more com-
pact and even surface.

The following is an excellent plan to
make or turn gravel walks in d ry weather.
If of a sandy or gravelly nature strew a
little clay or marl upon the walks. When
turned ovei take away all large stones,
and place them at the bottom of the
mass. Immediately after you have le-
velled the walk apply the roller, and let
an assistant follow, pouring upon it wa-
ter from a watering pot with coarse rose ;
in twenty-four hours after, if the wea-
ther is dry, it will be as solid as a stone
floor. The writer has had ocular de-
monstration of the fact in twenty in-
stances in the driest weather. — Gard.
Chron.

The best method of extirpating grass
which springs up from beneath a gravel
walk and spreads over its surface, is to
break up the walk, and pick out care-
fully all the under-ground runners which
may be met with. Where it is not de-
sirable to disturb the walk, the best
way is to spread salt in considerable
quantities over its whole surface ; and
if after the first application it is found
that portions of the grass still exist, let
another coating of salt be applied,
which will effectually destroy it. Care
must be taken, however, if the walk
is edged with box, that the salt does
not come in contact with it, otherwise
it will destroy the edging also.

" In the early part of April, gravel
walks are usually turned ; and practice
has taught that there is a right as well
as a wrong way, even for the perform-
ance of this simple operation. After
the walk has been broken up and level-
led, and a facing of new gravel spread
over, this ought to be left for three or
four days, and until a shower of rain
has fallen, before the roller is used.
This bleaches the gravel, and washes
down the fine particles, so that, imme-
diately after rolling, the walk is solid,
and has a clean bright surface." — Gard.
Chron.

Dr. Lindley has proposed a substi-
tute for gravel in the construction of
walks, which will get rid of most of
the annoyances attendant upon gravel;
for, formed of this material, they will
never be troubled by worms or weeds,

and will never require rolling. They
may be made of the same arched form ;
and if, at the time of making, the surface
be sprinkled with fine bright coloured
gravel, they will be as handsome as if
formed entirely of that material.

The composition recommended must
be made and laid down in perfectly dry
weather.

" Procure a quantity of road-sand, or
similar powdery material — finely sifted
lime-rubbish will do — and let it be tho-
roughly dried, so that it feels like dust
when handled : also sift out of the cinders
from the dwelling-house, &c., the finer
parts, and let these be also made per-
fectly dry ; mix these carefully, two
parts road-sand to one of ashes. In a
dry place, on a dry day, spread a quan-
tity of the mixture, as a bricklayer
spreads his lime, with a hollow in the
middle. Into this hollow pour some
coal-tar, boiling hot. Incorporate the
whole with a shovel, as if making mor-
tar, and when a thick paste, spread it
three or four inches thick over the
ground, laid out for the walk or floor.
The ground should previously be beaten
down as firm and as level as possible.
Powder it all over with dry and rather
coarse sand, after which a few passages
of the roller wiH press it level. Leave
it for a few days to harden, after which
the walk is fit for use, and will last for
very many years." — Gard. Chron.

GREAT BURNET. Sanguisorba.

GREAT CENTAUREA. Centaurea
centaurium.

GREEN-HOUSE. This is a winter-
residence for plants that cannot endure
the cold of our winter, yet do not re-
quire either the high temperature or
moist atmosphere of a stove [i. e. hot-
house] .

" The first thing to be attended to in
its construction," says Mr. H. Fortune,
of the Chiswick Gardens, " is the choice
of a proper situation. South is the best
aspect, or as nearly that as possible :
south-west or south-east will do, or even
east or west ; but on no account should
it ever face the north. Green-houses
should be fixed in situations where they
will not be shaded from the sun by any
part of the dwelling-house, or other
buildings, and should also be quite free
from large trees. They should not
be placed near trees for another reason
than being shaded by them, namely,
the glass in the roof being apt to be

GRE

271

GRE

broken by the rotten branches which
are sent down during high winds.

"Another most desirable considera-
tion is, to make arrangements for a
constant supply of rain-water. This is
very easily done when the house is
building. Gutters are wanted to carry
the wet off the roof; and, in so doing,
letit be brought into a tank in the house,
and used for watering the plants. Slate-
tanks may be used for this purpose, or ;
they may be built of brick and cement- ;
ed over on the inside. This will be '
economy in the end ; and the water
collected in this way is much to be \
preferred to many kinds obtained from
springs. I

" A drain should be made to enable
the tank to be emptied at pleasure, and
into which the water used in washing
out the house can be swept, without
running into the tank." — Gard. Chron.

The following is the plan of a green-
house erected at Yester, the seat of the
Marquis of Tweedale, and which an-
swers perfectly.

" In ordinary severe weather, while
the thermometer, in the open air during
night, ranges between 20^ and 30^, no
difficulty is found in keeping the tem-
perature to any point required between
50° and 80'-', which is quite sufficient.
The stove is heated with coke ; and
during a period while the thermometer
ranged between 60^ and 76^, the cost
did not exceed 2s. Qd. per month. The
fuel consumed during the time was ten
bushels. We do not know what is the
principle of the stove, but it resembles
an Arnott, and stands within the house,
which is twenty-five feet long, twelve
feet broad, and thirteen feet high.

" a a, back wall ; b b, mouths of cold
air stove, d ; e f, a f^w descending steps
by which it is supplied from the outside '
with fuel, through an opening in the
wall, as shown in the plan. On the
same level there is a place, /, for con-
taining coke, as represented by the
dotted lines; g- g is a brick casing.

Fig. 75.

formed in lengths of two feet each, and
neatly joined together; they are open
at top, and have movable covers. In-
to this casing the heated air from the
stove is first received, and afterwards
distributed at pleasure. In addition to
the heat given oft' in this way, the brick
casing, from retaining the hot air, toge-
ther with the flue-pipe passing through
it, becomes so hot as to give off a large
quantity in a radiating form.

"In the figure, two of the flue covers
are removed to show the surface of the
iron water-troughs, fitted on the flue-
pipe, and resting on the bottom of the
brick-casing, better seen in the sectional
view. The troughs are only filled with
the healed air when it is wanted in a
humid condition ; in other cases the
humidity from the cistern A, which sup-
plies water for the ordinary purposes of
the house, will be sufficient; i and j
are wood wedges inserted on one side
of the covers to raise them, more or
less, in proportion to the quantity of
heat required : k is the termination of
the flue-pipe, w liere it ascends, crossing
the house above the door, and entering
the back wall into the chimney. When
the house is to be heated, it is only ne-
cessary to light the fire in the stove d,
and open one of the cold air-drains 6 c,
as in the present instance the internal
one, b, is open. The arrows represent
the cold air flowing towards the stove,
where it enters below, and after travers-
ing a numerous formation of winding
channels in a heated state, discharges
itself into the brick-casing, g g, above
the flue-pipe, from which it escapes as
heretofore mentioned.

" When the cold air is taken from
the external drain, c, the internal one,
b, is closed ; a regulation, however,
which is entirely at the discretion of
the superintendent of the house : r,
the regulator in the ash-pit of the sjove,
the handle of which is turned so as to
admit a greater or less quantity of air,
bv which the combustion of fuel in the
stove is regulated: s s and m m, venti-
lating grates ; ri n, rods of iron sus-
pended to the frames of the top win-
dows to open and shut them ; g, a sys-
tem of small rods for conveying the
drip from the inside of the roof to the
cistern. A; j>, cover of stove-pit: it is
hinged, and readily thrown back when
admission to the stove is wanted.

" For ordinary-sized plant or fruit-

272

G RE

houses, the above method of heating
will be found quite sufficient. Where
very large structures are required to
be heated, any additional quantity may
be procured by means of hot water-
pipes supplied from a boiler placed
within the patent stove. The pipes
may be conveyed in a different direction
from the hot-air flue. The boiler, al-
though heated with the stove-furnace,
requires no additional fuel." — Gard.

perty, it by no means forms the only
valuable feature in them. Plants can
be easily reached and easily removed ;
the appearance of the interior is very
much improved, and no space is wasted.
In a common glass shed, at least one
half is useless — that is to say, the whole
of that part which is next the back wall.
Here, on the contrary, every portion of
the interior, except the walks, is ren-
dered available.

" The construction of the roof is
excellent. It rises at an angle of 30o,
which is exactly that best suited for
houses of such a description ; the raft-
ers are very light, and of a better form
than any we have previously seen. We
will not pretend to say why they pro-
duce so good an effect; for words will
never convey an adequate idea of the
cause of the beauty of such objncts.
Perhaps it is their lightness; probably
it is the two combined. Lightness of
appearance has been combined with
strength by the addition of an iron rod
to the lower edge of the rafter, in the
place of a head.

" In order to strengthen the roof and
to provide for the cultivation of climb-
ers, all the rafters are connected by
means of curved iron rods, which them-
selves add much to the beautiful ap-

Chron. jocivcs auu iiiucu lo me oeauiiiui ap-

On a larger scale is the green-house I pearance of the interior. This mode
at Kew; but as the same principles | "^ combining strength and decoration
and arrangements may be adopted on a ; ^'^Y of course be varied, but it will not

smnllpr si^nlo T irii-o fN^ r^ll^..,; — „.. i hp imnrnvpH

smaller scale, I give the following ex-
tracts from the details, published by
Dr. Lindley : —

" The general arrangement is excel-
ent. None of the door-ways are placed
in direct continuation of the walls ; but
they are either formed immediately op- j hand-pumps.

of plants, " It must be apparent that such a

be improved.

" Another important thing in the ar-
rangements is the ample provision for
receiving in tanks the rain-water that
falls on the roof of the building : this
is raised for use by means of small

posite the principal masses of pi „,

or obliquely with respect to the walks ;
so that the eye necessarily rests upon the
foliage as soon as the house is entered.
".Then, again, at the point where the
houses join each other, a semicircular
stage is thrown forward, by which the
disagreeable effect of a long narrow

house as this is precisely what is most
generally wanted by those who build
green-houses. If a large space is re-
quired, it is easy to lengthen any of
the arms; if more variety is desired,
another cross house could be readily
added to the smaller one. Should it be

»jio<igi ccaL>ic ciic-ui ui a. long narrow I <i>J"cu tu mc amtiner uiit. kMiouia 11 oe

■walk, in a small house, is completely too large, as will more frequently be

removed. the case, the smaller arm may be co-

"The house is span-roofed, and illus- P'ed or the larger, as the case "may be.

trates the great advantage of this kind If a stove is wanted instead of a green

of construction over the wretched lean
tos, which were formerly in fashion
We need not say that one of the ad

house, it would only be necessary to
inclose the stages, to put hot water
troughs into the chamber so obtained,

• ire uccu iiui s<ij( mill Kiie oi ine ao- iiuu^no imu iiie ciianiuer so ooiaineu,

vantages of a span-roofed house is, that and to add evaporating- pans to the

plants are exposed to light in all direc- pipps which are carried round the walls

tions: but, all-important as is that pro- "I" short, it appears to us that ir

GRE

273

GRE

this one house are contained illustra- as he proceeded towards the meridian,
tions of all the more important objects , the astragals and rafters formed a shade,
which are in the majority of cases to be ' and air being given, the plants survived

attained in green-house building.

and soon recovered ; in the lean-to

" It should be added, that the upright house they blackened and perished."
sides of the house are glazed with panes
of sheet-glass, in one length ; and that
each of the roof sashes has but two panes
in its length ; this no doubt adds very
much to its beautiful appearance." —
Card. Chron.

The plan given of the green-house at
Yester is a lean-to, but the same system TempletoniaTiauca.
ot heating is adaptable to a span-roofed , puHenea daphnoides.
house. This form is to be preferred on gtatice arborea
many accounts. Thus, as the practice pjineica decussata
is most injurious to have the tempera- | Oxylobium retusu'm.
ture of the hot-house too elevated dur- ; Loddigesia oxalidifolia
ing the night, so no less injurious, in
winter, is it to permit tender plants in
the green-house or elsewhere, which
may have been subjected to a freezing
temperature, to be suddenly exposed to

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

DWARFS SUITABLE FOR BEDDING IN THE
HOUSE.

Acacia armata.
Chorozema varium.
SoUya hcterophylla.

Epacris grandiflora.
— impressa.

Diosma rubra.
Eutaxia myrtifolia.
Eriostemon buxifolium.
Dilhvynia floribunda.
Boronia deiiticulata.

CLIMBERS FOR THE BACK WALL.

Corraa speciosa
Euchilus nbcordatum.
f . , -r. Hovea Celsi.

a higher degree of heat. Experience chironia frutescens.

has placed it beyond dispute that such

plants should be shaded from the sun,

and thus returned very slowly to a more

genial temperature. So convinced by

experiment of the importance of secur- ^

ing plants in greenhouses from sudden Genista canariensis.

transitions is Mr. Macnab, the curator pQiyrjala oppositifolia

of the Caledonian Horticultural Socie- Coleonema tenuifolia.

ty's garden, that he has those structures Lambertia formosa.

ranging north and south, and consequent-
ly with a western and eastern aspect.

They have two aspects, because he has Clematis azurea grandiflora.

them with span roofs, instead ofthe old Sieboldi.

leaa-to form. For green-houses, but Cobosa scandens.

not for forcing, there is no doubt that Maurandya Barclayana.

this form is to be preferred ; and Mr. \ Kennedya Mactryaltac.

M'Nab thus enumerates its advantages: '

" In a span-roofed house the circulation select plants for the shelves.

of air may be constantly kept up so as i Boronia pinnata, serrulata, and anemo-

effectually to prevent damp. For such a j nefolia.

green-house fire heat is scarcely at all Polygala oppositifolia and cordifolia.

required; for, if there be a free circu- Gardoquia Hookeri.

lation of air during the autumn and Roelia ciliata,

winter months, and if the tables and Hovea celsi and pungens.

shelves be carefully kept dry and clean, Chorozema varium,

water being sparingly given to such

plants only as require it, cold, even

descending to freezing occasionally the

surface of the soil, will do less injury

than the application of fire heat to most

plants. In the case of plants frozen in

a lean-to house, and others in a span-
roofed house extending north and south,

the consequences were much the least I.uculia gratissima.

injurious in the latter, for in it the in- Leschenaultia formosa and biloba.

fluence of the sun was much less felt; Coleonema tenuifolia.
18

Ilenchmanni.
Mirbelia floribunda.
Aphelexis humilus.
Pimelea spectabilis,

hispida.
Bossicea linophylia.
Eutaxia myrtifolia.
Dilhvynia floribunda.

Dicksoni, and

decussata, and

GRE

274

GRE

Genista canariensis.
SprengeliaincarnataandCroweasaligna,

together with the different kinds of
Acacia.
Corrtea.
Camellia.
Azalea, &c.

Climbers may consist of —
Kennedya Maryettae.
Hardenbergia monophylla and macro-

phylla.
SoUya linearis.

Gompholobium polymorphum.
Zichya glabrata.
Tropoeopium brachyceras, tricolor, and

azureum.
Mandevillia suaveolens.
Dolichos lignosus.
Clematis azurea grandiflora.
Veronica speciosa.
Chorozema varium nanum.
Pimelia spectabilis.
Hovea pungens.
Leschenaultia grandiflora.
Mirbelia dilatata.
Statice Dickensoni.
Tropoeolum azureum.
Tetranema mexicanum.
Habrothaninus fasciculatus.

cyaneus.

Boronia crenulata.
Eriostemon buxifolium.
Gompholobium versicolor.
Tecoma jasminoides rosea.
Echeveria secunda.
Hardenbergia macrophylla.

SWEET-SCENTED GREEN-HOUSE PLAKTS.

Aloysia citriodora.
Daphne odora.
Gardenia radicans.
Jasminum grandiflorum.
Luculia gratissima.
Heliotrope. ,

Common Orange, of which the Brigadier
multiflora is one of the best.

Lilium lancifolium and its varieties.
Sollya linearis.
Leschenaultia formosa.

GREEN-HOUSE BULBS.

Oxalis Bowei and versicolor.
Lachenalia tricolor.
Sparaxis tricolor and grandiflora.
Tritonia palida, crispa, and squalida.
Ixia patens, viridiflora, aristata, and

crocata.
Watsonia fulgida.
Hypoxis elegans.

Green-house plants are chiefly kept
in pots or tubs for moving them info
shelter in winter, and into the open air
in summer; for being all exotics from
warmer parts of the world, they are not
able to live in the open air in the
winter.

Most of them will prosper in any
good rich garden earth. Some sorts,
however, require a particular compost.
As to the pots and tubs to contain the
plants, they must be of different sizes,
according to that of the plants ; and
when these become too large for pots,
they must be shifted into tubs, hooped
with iron, and with handles at top to
each, of the same metal. See Flower
Pots and Potting.

Removing into the open air. — All the
sorts succeed in the open air from May
or beginning of June until October ; but
from October until May or June again
they require the shelter of the green-
house. The varieties of Myrtle, Gerani-
um, Oleander, Cistus, Phlomis, Shrubby
Aster, Tree Wormwood, Tree Candy
Tuft, Yellow Indian and Spanish Jas-
mines, Indian Bay, are the first that will
bear removal into the air; and in June,
accordingly as the season proves more
or less favourable, bring forth all the
others. But this should not be done
until there is a fair prospect of summer
being settled.

It is a good observation that when the
Mulberry tree begins to expand its

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS FLOWERING

AUTUMN.

Hedychium Gardinerianum (which does | leaves this is a certain sign of the ap-
best when planted in the border of proach of summer, and settled weather

the house).
Mimulus glutinosus.
Leonotis Leonurus.
Bouvardia splendens.
Achimenes longiflora.
Chironia frutescens.
Swainsonia galegifolia.

Mandevilla suaveoleos.

alba.

fit to begin moving out most sorts of
green-house exotics. A mild warm day
should be chosen for this work, and if
during a warm rain it will be of much
advantage, as it will wash the leaves
and branches, and greatly refresh the
plants.

When they are first brought out it is
proper to place the plants in some shel-

GRE

275

GRE

tered sunny place for a fortnight, till supplying them with fresh air at all op-
they are inured to the open air, and portunities in mild weather, and giving
then in any open exposure, where they moderate waterings occasionally, pick-
are designed to remain for the summer, ing off decayed leaves as often as they
As soon as they arc brought out let appear, and making moderate fires in

them be cleared from dead leaves and
dead wood, and let the earth on the
surface of the pots be stirred, taking a
little of the old out and adding some
fresh in its stead ; then give a moderate
watering, not only to the soil but also
over the heads of the plants. Supply
them with water during that season, in
hot dry weather. All except the suc-
culent will require it three times a week
at least, and in a very hot dry season
once a day will be requisite. The suc-
culent kinds must also have a moderate

severe or foggy weather.

When the plants are first housed,
they should have as much free air as
the nature of the season will admit, by
opening the windows every mild day to
their full extent ; and if the air is quite
temperate, they may remain open at
nights for the first week : but in cold
nights let them be constantly shut. This
work of admitting air must be attended
to all winter.

The proper time of day, during llie
winter, for admission of air is from

supply of water twice a week in dry I about eight, nine, or ten in the morn-
weather, observing that the proper time ing till three in the evening, according
of the day for watering all the sorts at to the mildness of the weather; but
this season is either in a morning before as the days lengthen and the warmer
nine o'clock, or in the afternoon after season advances, give more air in pro-
four or five. Moderate rains should not | portion earlier and later in the day, as
deter from watering, especially such j you shall judge proper, being careful
plants as have spreading heads, as these ; always to shut all close every evening
prevent the rains, unless very heavy or ' as soon as the sharp air approaches,
constant, from falling in sufficient quan- In foggy weather it is advisable to keep
tities on the earth of the pots to moisten the windows quite close, for the great
it properly. In hot weather, if some ; damp occasioned by fogs is very perni-
mowings of short grass, or moss, which cious to plants whilst they are confined
is neater, are spread on the surface of in the house; likewise in frosty weather
the Orange Tree tubs and others, it will keep the house close, unless the frost
gre-atly preserve the moisture. During is moderate, and the middle of the day
the season loosen the surface of the sunny and warm, when some of the
earth occasionally. windows may be opened a little, but

Removing into the Green-house. — To- shut close again if the sun is clouded,
wards the latter end of September, or In severe weather let the shutters also
as soon as the nights become cold, be- be closed every night, and occasionally
gin to return into the green-house the in severe days, and be particularly
more tender kinds, and especially the careful to water with great moderation
succulents should be removed to shelter whilst the plants remain in the green-
at the first approach of excessive wet house.

and cold nights.

A sunny day from about eleven to two

The Oranges, Lemons, and all the, o'clock, is then the proper time for

other species of Citrus, should also be
moved into shelter in due time, either
at the end of September or early in
October.

Continue moving in the others as the
cold increases, and by the end of the
month or first week of November bring
in the whole collection ; observing, ac-
cording as the time approaches for mov-
ing in the different sorts, to clear them
peri'ectly well from decayed leaves, &c.,
and let all the pots be well cleaned,
and loosen the surface of the earth in
each pot, adding a little fresh soil.
Their principal culture now will be,

watering. (Abercombie.)

See January and other months for the
routine work.

GREEN MANURE is a mass of re-
cently growing plants dug whilst green
and fresh into the soil, for the purpose
of enriching it; and it is a rule without
any exception, that all fresh vcg(>tal)le
matters so turned into the earth do
render it more fertile, and if plants are
grown upon the soil for this purpose,
the greater the amount of the surface
of leaves in proportion to that of roots
the better, because such plants obtain a
large proportion of their chief constitu-

GRE

276

GRO

ent, — the chief constituent of all plants,
carbon, — from the atmosphere : they,
therefore, return to the soil more de-
composing matter than they have taken
from it.

The putrefaction of the vegetables,
and the gases in that case emitted, says
my brother, Mr. Cuthbert Johnson,
" appear to be on all occasions highly
invigorating and nourishing to the suc-
ceeding crop. During this operation,
the presence of water is essentially ne-
cessary, and is most probably decom-
posed. The gases produced vary in
different plants ; those which contain
gluten emit ammonia ; onions and a few
others evolve phosphorus ; hydrogen,
carbonic acid gas, and carburetted hy-
drogen gas, with various vegetable
matters, are almost always abundantly
formed. All these gases when mixed
with the soil are very nourishing to the
plants growing upon it. The observa-
tions of the farmer assure us that they
are so. He tells us that all green ma-
nures cannot be employed in too fresh
a state, that the best corn is grown
where the richest turf has preceded it,
and that where there is a good produce
of red clover there will assuredly follow
an excellent crop of wheat ; he finds
also that when he ploughs in his crop of
buckwheat to enrich his land, that this
is most advantageously done when the
plant is coming into flower." — Farm.
Encyc.

Sea Weed is a species of green ma-
nure, for it ought to be employed
whilst quite fresh. There are many
species, and they differ very essentially
in their components. The LnurinariiB ,
those long, tawny-green, ribbon-like
algae so common on our coasts, contain
besides vegetable matter a large pro-
portion of the salts of potash in addition
to those of soda ; whereas the Fuci con-
tain none of the salts of potash. All,

The advantage of green manure is
practically understood by thousands of
our farmers, who, though they may be
unable to philosophize upon the subject
or refer to its true chemical cause, fully
appreciate its value.

The great desideratum of those who
aim at enriching the soil, is to produce
clover, — that attained, the rest is easy.
Clover, when turned in, prepares the
land for every description of crop, and
places the whole under the control of
the husbandman.

GREVILLEA. Forty-two species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe
cuttings, and some species, seeds.
Sand, loam and peat.

GRIFFINIA. Three species. Stove
bulbous perennials. Offsets. Seeds.
Turfy loam, white sand and peat.

GRINDELIA. Nine species. Chiefly
green-house evergreen shrubs. G. an-
gustifolia and G. squamosa are herba-
ceous perennials, and G. ciliata a hardy
annual. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

GRISLEA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy
peat and loam.

GROBYA AmhersticE. Stove orchid.
Division. Wood.

GROTTO, is a resting place, formed
rudely of rock-work, roots of trees,
and shells, and is most appropriately
placed beneath the deep shade of woods,
and on the margin of water. Its inten-
tion is to be a cool retreat during sum-
mer.

GROUND CHERRY. Cerasus Cha-
mcEcerasus.

GROUND CHRISTA. Cassia Cha-
mmchrista.

GROUND CISTUS. Rhododendron
Chamdcistus.

GROVE, is a moderately extensive as-
sociation of trees without underwood.

" The character of a grove is beauty ;
for fine trees are lovely objects, and a

however, are excellent manures, and I J grove is an assemblage of them, in

know a garden, near Southampton, very
productive, tliat for some years has had
no other manure. It is particularly
good as a manure for potatoes. The
Fucus vesiculosus, so distinguishable by
the bladders full of air embedded in its

which every individual retains much of
its own peculiar elegance, and whatever
it loses is transferred to the superior
beauty of the whole. To a grove,
therefore, which admits of endless vari-
ety in the disposition of the trees, differ-

leaves, is a very excellent manure. It encesin their shapesand theirgreensare
contains, when dry, about 84 parts ve- i seldom very important, and sometimes
getable matter, 13 parts sulphate of ' they are detrimental. Strong contrasts
lime and magnesia, with a little plios- , scatter trees which are thinly planted,
phate of lime, and 3 parts sulphate and j and which have not the connexion of
muriate of soda. I underwood ; they no longer form one

GRO

277

GU A

plantation ; they are a number of single ferred of a moderate size ; but culinary
trees. A thick grove is not, indeed, ex- vegetables should be grown rapidly,
posed to this mischief, and certain situ- | and of as gigantic a size as may be.
ations may recommend different shapes [ G R Y L L 0 T A L P A . See Mole-
and different greens for their effects up- Cricket.

on the surface. The eye, attracted into
the depth of the grove, passes by little
circumstances at the entrance; even
varieties in the form of the line do not
always engage the attention, they are
not so apparent as in a continued tliick-
et, and are scarcely seen if they are not
considerable.
"But the surface and the outline are not

GUAIACUM. Three species. Stove
evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Rich
loam.

GUANO. This now celebrated ma-
nure has been known as the chief fer-
tilizer employed by the Peruvians,
almost as long as that part of the New
World has been recognized by geo-
graphers. Its name, in the language of

the only circumstances to be attended ' that country, signifies the manure — and
to. Though a grove be beautiful as an it merits such distinction, as being one
object, it is, besides, delightful as a of the most powerful assistants to vege-
spot to walk or to sit in ; and the choice tation which can be applied to the soil,
and the disposition of the trees for , Guano is not peculiar to Peru, but is
effect within are therefore a principal : found in immense beds upon many rocks
consideration. Mere irregularity alone ' and islands of the Atlantic, being the
will not please, strict order is there excrements of the marine birds frc-
more agreeable than absolute confusion, quenting those ocean solitudes. It has
and some meaning better than none. , been lately analyzed by Dr. Ure, who
A regular plantation has a degree of reports it as composed of the following

proportional constituents: —

Azotized organic matter,"
including urate of am-
monia, and capable of
affording from 8 to 17 >50.0
per cent, of ammonia I
by slow decomposition |
in the soil ... .J

Water

Phosphate of lime . .

Ammonia, phosphate of"")
magnesia, phosphate of
ammonia, and oxalate I .-«
of ammonia, contain- ,'
ing from 4 to 9 per cent. |
of ammonia J

Siliceous matter ... 1.0

This analysis explains the source from
whence failure has been derived to

beauty; but it gives no satisfaction, be-
cause we know that the same number
of trees might be more beautifully ar-
ranged. A disposition, however, in
which the lines only are broken, with-
out varying the distances, is less natural
than any ; for though we cannot find
straight lines in a forest, we are habitu-
ated to them in the hedge-rows of fields ;
but neither in wild nor in cultivated
nature do we ever see trees equidistant
from each other; that regularity be-
longs to art alone. The distances, there-
fore, should be strikingly different; the
trees should gather into groups, or stand
in various irregular lines, and describe
several figures ; the intervals between
them should be contrasted both in shape
and in dimensions ; a large space should
in some places be quite open, in others | many who have tried it. It is the most
the trees should be so close together as | violently stimulating of all the known
hardly to leave a passage between them ; ' natural manures, and they have applied
and in others as far apart as the con- it too abundantly. This is shown by
nexion will allow. In the forms and the experiments of Mr. Maund. When
the varieties of these groups, these applied to Strawberries once a week in
lines, and these openings, principally a liquid state, (four ounces to a gallon,)
consists the interior beauty of a grove." it made them very vigorous and pro-

11.0
25.0

— Whateley.
GROWTH.

j ductive; but sprinkled upon some young
It may be taken as a seedlings of the same fruit it killed them.

universal maxim in gardening, that slow Two ounces per yard, (five cwt. per
growth and smallness of size increases acre,) were sprinkled over Onions, and
the intensity of flavour, and that rapidity they doubled the untreated in size.
of growth and increase of size render Potatoes manured with one ounce and a
flavour more mild. Fruit, therefore, j half per yard, were rendered much
should be ripened slowly, and be pre- 1 more luxuriant than others having no

GU A

278

GYP

■ w

guano. Brussels Sprouts were half! evergreen shrubs. Cuttings or seeds
destroyed by being planted in immedi- 1 Sandy peat and loam

ate contact with nine parts earth and
one part guano. Geraniums were

GUINEA-PEACH. Sarcocephalus.
GUINEA-PLUM. Farinarium excel-

GUM ARABIC TREE. Acacia ara-
bica.

GUM CISTUS. Cistus Ladaniferus.

GUM TREE. Eucalyptus robusta.

GUMMING. See Extravasated Sap.

GUSTAVIA augusta. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Rich soil.

GUZMANNIA tricolor. Stove her-

greatly injured by liquid manure of| sum
guano, (four ounces per gallon,) but
" Plants of various sorts in pots, water-
ed only with guano water, half an ounce
to a gallon, have flourished astonish-
ingly; none have failed. These are
lessons which cannot be mistaken." —
Auctorium, 223. Mr. Rendle and other

persons record, as the result of dearly- _

purchased experience, that where guano ' baceous perennial. Suckers. Rich

, ,-i ,._!_, x?.._i -„i — 1 :-. 1 niould.

GYMNADENIA. Four species.
Hardy orchids. Division. Sandy loam
and peat.

GYMNEMA. Four species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

GYMNOCLADUS canadensis. Hardy
deciduous tree. Cuttings. Open loamy
soil.

G Y M N 0 G R A M M A . Fourteen
species. Stove herbaceous perennials.
Division. Loam and peat.

GYMNOLOMIA. Three species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

GYMNOSTACHYS anceps. Green-
house herbaceous perennials. Suckers.
Peat and loam.

GYNANDROPSIS. Six species.

has failed to be beneficial, or has been in
jurious, it has been applied in quantities
too powerful for the plants to bear. In
a liquid state, half an ounce per gallon,
and given to growing plants once a week,
it never fails to be productive of vigour.

There is reason to fear that all
the advantages attributed to Guano,
may not be realized. That it has pro-
duced striking effects on certain crops
cannot be questioned — especially on
grass, wheat and Indian corn ; but we
are far from subscribing to the opinion
of those who in their zealous praise of
this new fertilizer, assert that it is
cheaper to buy it, than haul manure
from the barn-yard to the fields !

There are many crops on which it
appears to produce but little effect:
The writer has used over two tons of

whatwasreputed to be the best Peruvian i Hardy or stove annuals and biennials.

guano, in experiments, chiefly
Kitchen garden vegetables carefully no-
ting the quantity applied, mode, &c., but
in nearly every instance without per-
ceiving any important result. — Doubt-
less much depends on the soil, and the

Seeds. Sandy loam.

GYPSUM, or Plaster of Paris, is a

sulphate of lime, composed of^ —

Sulphuric acid 43

Lime 33

Water 24

presence or absence of those constitu- ! It has been employed advantageously
. L- 1 -1 J :_ ...1 „„„.„„„.. ^ »„ >u., >...„;„ »„j „..f..«n of

ents which abound in guano — where
they already exist in the soil, in suf-
ficient quantity, no benefit can result
from its application.

GUATTERIA. Five species. Stove
evergreen shrubs or trees. Cuttings.
Loam, peat, and sand.

GUAVA. Psidium.

GUAZUMA. Three species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

GUELDER ROSE. Viburnum opulus.

GUERNSEY LILY. Nerine sar-
niensis.

GUETTARDA. Seven species.
Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

GUILANDINA. Two species. Stove

as a manure to the turnip and potato, at
the rate of 3 cwt. per acre. Potato sets
are frequently rolled in it when pulver-
ized. It has been recommended to be
sprinkled in stables, and to be mixed
with dunghills, " to fix the ammonia,"
as it is popularly termed. That am-
moniacal fumes are given out from the
urine of horses, and from decomposing
dungheaps, is true ; but it is quite as
true, that sulphate of lime thus em-
ployed will not detain a thousandth part
of them, owing to the sulphuric acid
having a greater affinity for the ammonia
than lor lime, and carbonic acid having
a greater affinity for lime than for am-
monia. And it is also true, that all the
ammonia lost in fumes from a dunghill

GYP

279

HAL

might be more readily and as cheaply " Inquire in the counties of Chester,
restored to it by mixing ^vith it, when ' Lancaster, and others around us, where
dug into the soil, a little of the am- clover is so beneficially cultivated, how
moniacal liquor from the gas works, much is due to that excellent man, for
Gypsum is extensively used in Pennsyl- the great pains he took to extend the
vania and in many cases with the best use of gypsum? On this subject, I very
results. For its introduction originally recently transmitted to the Judge, a
we are indebted to the late Judge Peters; ! testimonial of gratitude from one of the
from a "short notice" of whom, by most intelligent persons of Lancaster ;
Samuel Breck, Esq., we extract the fol-; who unhesitatingly ascribes to Mr

lowing:

Peters' book on plaster, and his other

" As a practical farmer, Mr. Peters ! agricultural essays, the merit of having
had from time to time communicated | produced a good part of the rich culti-
tlie results of the experiments made at j vation, for which that country is so
Belmont, to such of his neighbours as : celebrated."

chose to profit by them ; but he had not | GYRENIA biflora. Half-hardy bulb-
written much, if anything, upon agri- I ous pereijnials. Division. Peat and
culture, before the year 1797. His first i loam.

publication was then made, and con- I GYROCARPUS. Two species. Stove
tained a statement of facts and opinions \ evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam apd
in relation to the use of Gypsum. This
pamphlet circulated widely, and pro-
duced such a change in husbandry, by
introducing the culture of clover, and
other artificial grasses, as gave, we all
know, a mngical increase to the value
of farms. Estates which until then were
unable to maintain stock, for want of
winter fodder, and summer pasture,
were suddenly brought into culture, and
made productive. Formerly, on a farm
destitute of natural meadow, no stock
could be supported ; and even where
natural meadow existed, the barn yard
was exhausted to keep up sufficient
fertility, (in the absence of irrigation,)
to feed a very few horses and black
cattle.

" Such was the situation of our hus-

peat.

HABENARIA. Ten species. Stove
orchids. Division. Leaf-mould and
peat.

HABRANTHUS. Fourteen species.
Green-house and hardy bulbs. Offsets
and seeds. Sandv loam and peat.

H^MADICTY'ON venosum. Stove
evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

HiEMANTHUS. Twenty-one
species. Green-house bulbs. Offsets.
Sandy loam and peat.

H.T.MILIS. See Tinea.

H ^: M 0 D 0 R U M . Two species.
Green-house herbaceous. Division.
Loam and peat.

HA-HA, is a sunk fence, being placed
at the bottom of a deep and spreading

bandry, for some years after the revolu- [ ditch, either to avoid any interruption
tion. It is proper to advert to it, that ' to an expanse of surface, or to let in a
we may understand the full extent of desired prospect. As all deceptions are
our obligation to the Judge. In the > unsatisfactory to good taste, and as
year 1770, he was shown the effects of when viewed lengthwise these fences
gypsum on clover, in a city lot, occupied ^ are formal and displeasing, they ought
by Mr. Jacob Barge, on the commons never to be adopted except in extreme
of Philadelphia.

" The secret of its powerful agency
came from Germany, where it was ac-
cidentally discovered. Mr. Peters ob- : Green-house evergreen shrubs
tained a small quantity, which he used tings. Loam, peat, and sand,
successfully, and gradually promoted HALESIA. Snowdrop Tree. Three
its consumption, until, by his example, species. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Cut-
and his publications, the importation tings and layers. Common soil.
from Nova Scotia alone, into the single HALF-HARDY PLANTS arc those
port of Philadelphia, increased to the which require partial shelter, as in a
enormous amount of fourteen thousand cold pit or frame, during the winter,
tons annually. This was before the Here some attention is required to ex-
discovery of that fossil in the United elude from them dampness and frost,
States. : but especially the first. On these points

cases.

HAIR. See Animal Matters.
H A K E A . Forty-eight species.
Cut-

HAL

280

HAN

Mr. W. Wakefield gives these good
directions : —

" To prevent dampness there must
be a free circulation of air ; the plants
must be placed on a dry bottom ; and if
they are in a situation which will admit
of a fire occasionally, it will render the
pits or house dry, but it should be used
very sparingly, and only when abso-
lutely necessary. But even with all i
care and attention, damp will attack |
some plants, and generally those that I
are most succulent in their nature, or 1
the young and tender tops of others.
We should therefore watch narrowly
and remove every leaf or shoot affected,
as damp not only destroys the indi-
vidual immediately affected, but ex-
tends its influence to those in the neigh-
bourhood of the one so affected. It is
contagious; it engenders mould, which
being a speciesof fungus, is rapidly dis-
seminated, attacking and destroying
wherever the damp has prepared the
leaves for its reception. Neither should
plants be too much crowded, as that
obstructs the free circulation of air.

" Watering should of course be done
sparingly, but still it w-ill be required
occasionally. Care, however, should
be taken to preserve the foliage as dry
as possible, as, there being but little sun
in winter, and that not of sufficient
strength to evaporate the superabundant
moisture rapidly, it quickly rots the
leaves, especially of Pelargoniums, and
similar plants having leaves which form
a kind of dish in which the water ac-
cumulates in considerable quantities.

" When fire is had recourse to for dry-
ing the house or pits, choose a fine day,
and give all the air possible, so that
the moisture dislodged by the heat may
be dispersed.

" If the season is likely to be dry,
first make a hole for the plant, and in
the bottom of this put some rotten dung,
or any sort of material that will retain
■water. Water this well, and then put
in the plant, filling the hole to within
two inches of the surface ; again water
-well, and then fill up the hole.

" If obliged to water the plants after-
wards, cause the beds to be hoed over
next day as soon as they are dry enough ;
plants do better under this treatment
than by watering them so much as is
usually done when there is no appear-
ance of damp on the leaves over late in
the evening." — Gard. Chron.

HALIMODENDRON. Three species.
Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers and
seeds, or grafts on Robinia. Sandy loam.

HALLERIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Rich
sandy loam.

HALTICA. See Black Fly.

HAMAMELIS. Witch Hazel. Two
species. Hardy deciduous trees. Lay-
ers. Common soil.

HAMBURCtH PARSLEY. See Pars-
ley (Hamburgh).

HAMELIA. Five species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

HAMILTONIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

HANBURY. See Ambury.

HANDBARROW is best made of
this form : —

Fis.77.

The cage below is useful for carrying
leaves and other litter ; and when the
close moveable cover is on, it serves as
a conveyance for plants in large pots or
tubs, which, when in flower or bearing
fruit, might be too violently shaken in a
wheelbarrow.

HAND-GLASS is a portable glass-
case used for sheltering cauliflowers
and other plants in winter, and during
early spring, or to retain a regular
supply of moisture to cuttings until
they are rooted. The most durable
and convenient are made with cast iron
framing of this form : —

Fig. 78.

They are sometimes made with movea-
ble tops as here represented, but the
only advantage it affords is, that several
of the lower portions may be placed

HAN

281

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upon each other to protect any tall
growing shrub in severe weather, other-
wise they are more troublesome to move,
and more liable to breakage than if
made entire.

ilAND-WEEDIXG: much of it might
be banished from the garden, if in the
kitchen department all crops were in-
serted in drills. This is most desirable ;
for the stirring of the surface conse-
quent to hoeing, is much more beneficial
to the crops, and cannot be repeated
too frequently.

HAPALOSTEPHIUM. Eightspecies.
Hardy herbaceous. Division and seed.
Sandv rich soil.

HARDENBERGIA monophylla is a
green-house climber, the cultivation of
which is thus narrated by Mr. G. Wat-
son : —

" Train with five leading shoots, one
from the centre of the pot, to which a
long, small, neat stick is placed ; the
other four being fastened to four similar
sticks at regular distances round the
edge of the pot. From each of these
leading shoots proceed numerous side-
branches which are densely covered
•with flowers. When the plant has done
blooming, which is by the end of May
or beginning of June, still allow it to
remain in the green-house until the
shoots are well ripened. During this
time the plant is watered sparingly;
for it is only by moderating the supply
of water that we can imitate those pe-
riodical seasons of rest to which this,
as well as all other exotic plants, is ex-
posed in its native climate.

" By the first week in August it is
taken from the green-house and well
soaked with water, then placed in the
open air in a sheltered situation, but
fully exposed to the sun, being double
potted to prevent the sun's rays from
destroying the small fibres, which are
the principal feeding organs.

" The whole of the side shoots are
pruned to one or not more than two
eyes, and the leading shoots cut back
according to their strength, so as to call
into action the whole of the remaining
buds. As soon as the new shoots are
from one to two inches in length, the
plant is taken from the pot and nearly
the whole of the soil is shaken from its
roots ; the stronger roots are at the
same time cut back to smaller fibres.
It is then repotted in a new or clean
■washed pot, thoroughly drained.

"The soil in which it thrives well is
chopped turfy heath-mould, mixed with
a little sand. After forcing it is placed
in a shady place for a short time, and
by degrees exposed fully to the sun,
being taken into the green-house by the
end of September.'" — Card. Chron.

HARDY PLANTS are those which
endure uninjured our seasons without
protection. Half-hardy Plants arc those
which require a temporary protection
during the colder portions of the year.

HAREBELL. Campanula rotundi-
folia.

HARES and RABBITS are deterred
from injuring trees and shrubs by mixing
night-soil and clay in water, and daub-
ing it over the stems with a brush, in
November ; and if the winter proves
very wet, in February. The November
dressing is, however, generally suffi-
cient. This mixture has stopped their
depredations entirely, even when they
had commenced operations. — Gard.
Chron.

HARE'S-EAR. Bupleurum.

HARE'S-FERN. Davallia canari-
ensis.

HARE'S-FOOT. Ochromalagopus.

HARONGA madagascariensis. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

HARPALYCE. Four species. Hardy
herbaceous. Seeds. Common soil.

HARRISONIA loniceroides. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

HARTOGIA cjpensis. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

HAUTBOY. See Strawberry.

HAWK FLY. See Scmw.

HAWKWEED. Hieracium.

HAWORTHIA. Sixty-two species.
Green-house succulents. Suckers or
cuttings of leaves. Sandy loam and
leaf-mould.

HAWTHORN. Crattegus.

HAWTHORN BUTTERFLY. See

PlERIS.

HAYLOCKIA pmsilia. Half-hardy
bulb. Offsets. Sandy loam.

HAZEL. Corylus avellana.

HEADING, or as it is also termed
Cabbaging or Loaving, is an inaptitude
to unfold the central leaves, character-
izing the various members of the Cab-
bage tribe. They have their centre or
bud composed of a larger number of
leaves than usual, and these, in some

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282

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instances, are so complex]y combined
that the plant has not sufficient power
to force them open to permit the pro-
trusion of the seed-stem. The close-
ness of the heading is regulated by the
exposure to the light. In a shady situ-
ation all the leaves are required to ela-
borate the sap, on account of the defi-
cient light rendering each less active;
therefore they open as they are formed.
In a free exposure a few leaves are able
to effect the requisite decomposition ;
and hence the reason why cabbages al-
ways have " harder hearts'''' in summer
than in spring or autumn, when the
light is less intense.

HEADING-DOWN is cutting off en-
'tirely or to a considerable extent, the
branches of a tree or shrub — a process
not rashly to be resorted to, and adapted
only to reduce them when the plant
seems declining in vigour, or has attain-
ed an undesirable size.

HEART'S-EASE. See Pansy.

HEAT is the prime agent employed
by the Almighty Creator to call vege-
table life into existence, to develop
vegetable form, to effect all vegetable
changes, and to ripen all vegetable
produce. All these effects are per-
formed most efficiently, in the case of
every plant, at some different tempera

growth of the plant to diminish and its
colour to become more pale ; this effect
being now produced by the plant's tor-
pidity, or want of excitement to perform
the requisite elaboration of the sap, as
it is by over-excitement when made to
vegetate in a temperature which is too
elevated.

If blossoms are produced at all, they
are unfertile, and the entire aspect o
the plant betrays that its secretions are
not healthy and its functions are dead-
ened. Mr. Knight says, "that melon
and cucumber plants, if grown in a
temperature too low, produce an excess
of female blossoms; but if the tempera-
ture be too high, blossoms of the oppo-
site sex are by far too profuse." The
drier the air the greater is the amount
of moisture transpired ; and this be-
comes so excessive, if it be also pro-
moted by a high temperature, that
plants in hot-houses, where it has oc-
curred often, dry up as if burned. The
justly lamented Mr. Daniell has well
illustrated this by showing, that if the
temperature of a hot-house be raised
only five degrees, viz. from 75'' to 80",
whilst the air within it retains the same
degree of moisture, a plant that in the
lower temperature exhaled fifty-seven
grains of moisture, would in the higher

ture or degree of heat; and he who temperature, exhale one hundred and
ascertains most correctly those heats, \ twenty grains in the same space of
has taken a gigantic step towards ex- time.

cellence as a gardener. An uncongenial Plants, however, like animals, can
heat is as pernicious to vegetables as to bear a higher temperature in dry air
animals. Every plant has a particular than they can in air charged with va-
temperature without which its functions pour. Animals are scalded in the lat-
cease ; but the majority of them luxuri- , ter if the temperature is very elevated,
ate most in a climate of which the ^ and plants die, under similar circum-

extreme temperature does not much
exceed 32° and 90°. No seed will
vegetate — no sap will circulate — at a
temperature at or below the freezing
point of water. No cultivation will
renderplants, natives of the torrid zone

stances, as if boiled. MM. Edwards
and Colin found kidney-beans sustained
no injury, when the air was dry, at a
temperature of IG?^; but they died in
a few minutes if the air was moist.
Other plants under similar circum-

capable of bearing the rigours of our ' stances, would perish probably at a

winters, although their offspring, raised
from seed, may be rendered much more
hardy than their parents. Others are
capable of resisting the greatest known

much lower temperature ; and the fact
affords a warning to the gardener to
have the atmosphere in his stoves very
dry whenever he wishes to elevate their

cold to which they can be exposed ; yet temperature for the destruction of in-
all have degrees of temperature most sects or other purposes,
congenial to them, and if subjected to ! Some plants, like some animals, are
lower temperatures, are less or more [ able to endure a very high degree oftem-
injured proportionately to the intensity I perature. Sir Joseph Banks and others
of that reduction. If the reduction of j have breathed for many minutes in an at-
temperature be only slightly below that ' mosphere hot enough to cook eggs ; and
which is congenial, it only causes the I have myself travelled in Bengal breath-

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283

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ing air, without inconvenience, which
rendered the silver-mountings of my
green spectacles too hot to be borne
without their occasional removal.

So do certain plants flourish in hot-
water springs of which the temperature
varies between the scalding heats of
from loO*-' to ISO^ of Fahrenheit's ther-
mometer; and others have been found
growing freely on the edges of volca-
noes, in an atmosphere heated above
the boiling point of water. Indeed, it
is quite certain that most plants will
better bear, for a short time, an elevat-
ed temperature which, if long continu-
ed, would destroy them, than they can
a low temperature. Thus a temperature
much above the freezing point of wa-
ter, to orchidaceous and other tropical
plants, is generally fatal if endured by
them for only a few minutes ; whereas
a considerable elevation above a salu-
tary temperature is rarely injurious to
plants. But this is not universally the
case ; for the elegant Primula marginata
is so impatient of heat that, although
just about to bloom, it never opens a
bud, if brought into a room in which
there is a fire.

The temperature should always be
regulated, in our hot-houses, with a
due regard to the light. At night it
should be so low as to put the circula-
tion of the sap into a comparative state
of rest; and in dull days the tempera-
ture should be full 10^ lower than in
those of bright sunshine.

HEATHS {Erica). This truly beau-
tiful tribe is in the climate of the United
States of but little interest. Scarcely
half a dozen of the almost countless
species and varieties of Erica have
proved capable of resisting the effects
of our restless climate. It is a curious
fact, that, though this genus is diffused
over Europe, Asia, and Africa, not a
single species has been found in the
Western hemisphere.

Varieties. — Of these the following are
good selections : —

HARDY CAPE HEATHS, FOR FLOWERING
DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS.

Erica Bowieana, white.

Grandiflora, yellow.

Ventricosa, pink.

Echitlora, purple.

Beaumontiana, blush.

Mundula, pink.

Cerinthoides, scarlet.

Erica Ampullacea.

Aristata,dark crimson and pink.

Aggregata, purple.

Vindiflora, green and pink.

Phrysodes, whiXe.

USEFUL KINDS ARE :

Hartnelli, pink.

Aristata ]\Iajor, red.

Acuminata longitlora, purple.

Tenuiflora, white, with pink

shade.

Inflata, white.

Archeriana, scarlet.

Depressa, yellow.

Elegans, light purple.

Cavendishii, yellow.

Mutabilis, light purple.

Retorta Major, pink.

Lamberti Rosea, flesh-coloured.

Hyemalis, purple, lipped with

white.

Tricolor, red.

Lirinaioides Superba, purple,

with white tip.

Jasmini, flora alba, white, and

all the varieties of Ventri-
cosa.

VARIETIES BLOOMING BETWEEN NOVEM-
BER AND MAY.

Erica Verticillata.

Mammosa, M. pallida.

Hyemalis.

Willmoreana.

VVestcottii.

Grandinosa.

Arbuscula.

Umbellata.

Rubra P., alba.

Pyramidalis.

Transparens.

^— Regermirans.

Mr. Reid very justly remarks, "that,
in small establishments, the green-house
being generally furnished with vines, to
keep plants in them in summer is out of
the question ; he therefore selects three
or four plants of only the winter flower-
ing sorts, such as would keep up a show
of bloom from November till April.
Early in May the plants might be all
taken out, and the house should be shut
up for the purpose of forwarding the
vines."

With something like the following
selection, a very nice show of bloom
might be kept up during all the time
that it is necessary to have the plants
in the house ; and thev are, with very

HEA

284

HEA

few exceptions, strong growers and free I these a layer of turfy peat should be

bloomers, and all can be bought at a
]ow rate: —

Erica Westcottii.

Colorans.

Arbuscula.

Hyemalis.

Picta.

Transparens,

Nova.

Vernix.

Vernix Coccinea.

Cerinthoides.

Superba.

Mutabilis.
Bicolor.
Willmoreana.
Rubra Calyx.

■ Lambertiana.

■ Lambertiana Rosea.

■ Exsurgens.
Coccinea.

Archeriana.
■ Praestans.

Pyramidalis Verna.
Autumnalis.

■ Tenella.

Gracilis Autumnalis.
Verna.

—^ Pellucida.

Mammosa.

Pallida.

Curviflora.

Scabriuscula.

Propagation. — Mr. Fleming gives the
following very full and excellent direc-
tions : —

" Heaths are propagated in two ways
— by seeds and by cuttings. Seeds are
either obtained from the Cape of Good
Hope, or are gathered from plants
which have flowered in this country.
When they are received from the Cape
they should be sown immediately, un-
less this should happen late in the au-
tumn, or in winter ; and in that case
the sowing should be deferred until
spring. When seeds of this kind are
sown late in the year, they either do
not vegetate at all, or, if they are ex-
cited into growth, the stimulus is so
weak, and the days are so short and
dull, that they get sickly, and frequent-
ly damp off. For the same reason,
seeds which are saved in this country
should either be sown in spring, or very
early in summer.

" Some flat pots, or seed-pans, should
be half filled with potsherds ; and over

placed to prevent the soil from being
washed down and destroying the drain-
age. The pots should then be filled to
within half an inch of the top with fine
peat, and this should be slightly pressed
down with the back of the hand, or
with the bottom of a small flower-pot,
to make it level and more solid. If this
is not attended to, the seeds are liable
to sink too deep in the soil, and are
prevented from germinating. They
should then be sown, and slightly co-
vered with fine peat soil, after which
they should be watered and removed to
the seed-house. In all large nurseries
or gardens, a house, pit, or frame, is
set apart for raising seeds. It is to a
place of this kind that the pots contain-
ing the heath-seed should be removed,
and as we suppose this to be done in
spring, no artificial heat will be requir-
ed, that received from the sun being
quite sufficient. If the seed has been
good, the young plants will soon make
their appearance above ground. As
they get strong, the shading should be
gradually discontinued, and more air
admitted, until they are a little harden-
ed and ready to pot off. They should
then be put singly into thumb-pots in
sandy peat soil well watered, and after-
wards removed to a close-shaded frame.
Here they will remain for ten days or a
fortnight, until their roots establish
themselves in their new quarters, when
more air may gradually be admitted,
and the plants subjected to the same
treatment as those in the green-house
or heathery." — Gard. Chron.

Cuttings. — The same good authority
says that, " No particular time can be
specified for striking cuttings of heaths,
because the plants are in a fit state for
taking off the cuttings at different times ;
but the earlier in the season the better,
although many cultivators succeed per-
fectly so late as the months of August
and September. The plants from which
the cuttings are taken must be perfectly
healthy. The wood should be firm and
nearly ripe, because if taken when very
young it is almost certain to damp off.
The short lateral shoots, about an inch
or an inch and a half long, should al-
ways be chosen, and the leaves stripped
off them to about half their length, and
the ends cut across with a sharp knife ;
in this state they are ready for the cut-
ting-pot. The cutting-pots should be

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285

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prepared in the following manner. Fill ■ same manner as the young seedlings
them about two-thirds with broken pots, above described." — Card. Chron.
and cover these with a thin stratum of Soil. — " The best for the growth of
turfy peat, or some other substance to heaths is that rich brown turfy peat,
prevent the sand with which the pots commonly found on the surface of land
are filled up from choking the drain- where the native heath grows. Some-
age. The silver sand, common about times grass will be found growing very
London, is very well adapted for strik- strong on this soil, as at Shirley Com-
ing heaths ; but almost any sand will mon ; but wherever the land is barren,
answer the purpose ; it is generally pre- it is an indication of poor soil, and
ferred as free from the rusty colour of should not be selected. It is always
iron as possible. The cuttings may best to have it dug and brought home
then be inserted in the sand, not deep- to the compost yard at least a year be-
ly, but merely deep enough to support fore it is to be used. The fibrous mat-
themselves; from a quarter to half an ter will then have time to decay, and
inch is quite sufficient. They must will make excellent manure for the
then be well watered ; bell glasses are roots of the plants. During the winter
of great service in striking them, but and spring it should be several times
certainly not indispensable to success, turned over, and by this means the
When they are used, they must be fre- whole will get well mixed and exposed
quently taken off and wiped dry, other- i to the influence of the frost. Peat soil
wise the moisture will probably rot the is generally found naturally well mixed
cuttings. When they are dispensed with fine white sand ; but where this is

with the cuttings should be placed in
a situation which is moist and shaded,
and then they will be surrounded in a
great measure with the same circum-
stances as under a bell glass.

"Very little artificial heat is neces-
sary in striking heaths, much is certain-
ly injurious. A cucumber or melon

not the case, a small quantity should be
added to the soil before it is used." —
Gard. Chron.

After-Culture, Potting, 4c.— "As
the young plants grow and fill the pots
of a larger size, follow the different
sizes of the pots commonly made in the
potteries from ' thumbs' downwards to

frame nearly exhausted, or the shaded those of a larger size. Thus the young
part of a cool stove, will answer the cuttings or seedlings are first potted in
purpose early in spring, and later in ' thumbs,' then in sixties, then forty-
the season, when thesun-heat is greater, , eights, and so on. At every shifting
a close fence slightly shaded is all that the neck of the plant ought to be kept
is required. The care required after- a little higher than the soil, and when
wards is to shade during bright sun- large pots or tubs are used, Mr. M'Nab's
shine, to remove into the shade early i plan of mixing small pieces of freestone
in the afternoon, and also to see that with the soil is a most excellent one ;
the watering is not neglected. of course it is necessary for the health
" More, perhaps, depends upon the of the plants to have the pots properly
kind of water which is used, and the drained and the worms kept out of them,
regularity with which it is given, than I " Heaths will not bear their roots
upon anything else in operation ; if we being cut or destroyed, particularly
except the selection of proper cuttings, after the plants attain a certain age.
Rain or river water is by far the best The shifting may be done at any season
kind to use. After the cuttings have except winter ; but this must be regu-
struck root they should be gradually lated in a great degree by the state of
hardened by exposure to the air before the plants, as they flower and grow at
they are potted off. Small thumb-pots so many different times. Spring, how-
are the best for the first potting, and ever, is the time when the most of
the soil used, should be very sandy peat, them ought to be shifted, and if they
The greatest care should be taken to are placed out of doors during summer,
preserve the young rootless from injury, they will all require to be looked over
because if this is not attended to, the again before they are brought into the-
plants will receive a sudden check at house in autumn. The kind of water
first, which is very prejudicial. After which is used for these plants is of the
potting, they should be removed to a greatest consequence in keeping them
close-shaded frame, and treated in the in a high state of health. When the

HEB

286

HED

pots are properly drained, there is not and bank, and leveling the top of the
much danger to be apprehended from bank so as to form a sort of border,
over watering; but the plants are sure then plant the sets in one or two rows
to suffer if the ball is allowed to get the whole length ; but two rows a foot
too dry, and hence the great use of asunder is the most eligible for all out-
small pieces of freestone, recommended ward fences, as it always forms the
by Mr. M'Nab. In the winter season, thickest, strongest, and most effectual
when there is any danger from frost, hedge-fence. Mark out a space for a
heaths and all other hardy green-house ditch three or four feet wide at top,
plants should always be watered in the which is to be digged three feet deep
early part of the day, as they are much each side, sloping gradually to a foot
more likely to be injured if watered in wide at bottom, forming a bank along
the afternoon. It is the best plan under upon the inner edge on which to bed or
these circumstances to keep them as plant, which should be planted as you
dry as they will bear without injury, for advance in forming the ditch and bank.
wet soil freezes much sooner than dry. Having lined out the width of the ditch.
Frequent syringing is also of great use then along the inner edge lay a row of
in fine weather ; but this must never be square spit turfs, grass side downwards,
done when the plants are likely to suf- to form the beginning of the bank, back-
fer from damp, or when the weather ing it up with spits of earth from the
is cold and frosty. The principal art of formation of the ditch, and top it with
making fine specimens of heaths, con- a little of the fine mould or crumbs;
sists in dwarfing them, and forming and then upon this proceed to lay the
them into round green bushes. This is first row of plants: first let the sets
done by pinching out the points of the be headed to about five or six inches,
shoots when the plants are young, and and the roots trimmed, then lay them
continuing the practice whenever the upon the bed of turf with their tops out-
stems are inclined to grow long-jointed, ward, in an upward direction, about ten
It must, however, be done in a judi- or twelve inches asunder, covering their
cious manner, otherwise if done at the roots with mould also out of the ditch ;
wrong season the flowering will be and then lay another row of turf along
spoiled. The proper time is after the upon the necks of the plants, and more
flowering season is past, or when the mould from the ditch upon, and behind,
plant is growing freely, and before it the turf; and when the bank is thus
has begun to form its flower buds." — raised a foot above the row of sets.

Gard. Chron

HEBENSTREITIA
Green-house evergreen shrubs
tings. Sandy loam and peat

plant another row in the same manner,

Ten species, placing each set against the spaces of

Cut- those of the first row, so covering them

with more earth from the ditch to the

HEDEOMA. Two species. Hardy depth of three feet, sloping each side to

annuals. Seeds. Common soi

HEDERA. Ivy
several varieties,
climbers. Slips. Common soil

HEDGE, properly includes every
kind of fence, but the present details
apply for the most part to growing
fences. Abercrombie says, that "all
outward hedges designed as fences

one foot width at bottom, and trim up
Two species and i all remaining earth, throwing a suf-
Hardy evergreen ficiency behind the top of the banking to
bank up the whole even, in a sort of
broad border, all the way along the top,
sloping a little back, so as to correspond
nearly with the adjoining ground. But
in planting for an outward fence, some
form the ditch and bank first as above.

should have a ditch on the outside, three and plant the sets in two rows along the

or four feet wide at the top, three
deep, sloping to one wide at bottom,
raising a low bank on the inside on
which to plant the hedge, which may
be planted either on the side of the
'said inner bank in two rows, one above
the other a foot asunder, planting them

top ; that is, afier having formed the
ditch and bank, then leveling the top
forming a foot of border all along a
yard wide; plant the sets along the
middle thereof upright, in two rows a
foot asunder, and sis inches distant in
each row, observing the same when in-

aa you advance in forming the ditch and tended to raise a hedge at once from
bank, or may be planted entirely on the seed sowed where you design the hedge
top of the bank, first forming the ditch | to be, sowing them along the top in

HED

287

HED

drills a foot asunder. Sometimes when Hedge-shrubs are Evergreen Holly;

hedges are designed for middle fences Yew; Laurel ; Laurustinus; Phillyrea;

to divide fields, a two-sided bank is Alaternus; Bay; and Evergreen Oak :

raised a yard high, and as broad at top, but the holly and yew form the best

having a'slight ditch on each side ; and hedges for general use

each side of the bank is formed with
square spit turfs from the adjoining
ground, and the middle filled up with
mould from the ditches on each side;
so that when finished, it forms a yard-
wide border all the way along tlie top,
and along the middle of which plant
two rows of hedge-sets or seed, in drills,
as before observed. But in places where

Deciduous kinds. — Hawthorn ; Black-
thorn; Crab; Elder; Hornbeam; Beech;
Elm ; Lime-tree, and Alder are all
proper, either for middling or tall
hedges, as they may be trained up from
about six or eight to fifteen or twenty
feet high, and the elm to double that
height if required. Privet is also some-
times used for moderately high hedges :

the whole length.

"In respect to the trainin

no ditch nor raised bank is required, as ; and for low hedges, the Rose ; Sweet-
may be the case for middle hedges in ^ briar; Syringa ; and Berberry,
the interior parts of grounds, especially ! All full trained hedges, in order to
in gardens; then the place for the hedge : preserve them in proper form, close
being marked out on the level ground and neat, must be clipped, both on the
two or three feet broad, dig it along one ' sides and top, once or twice a year, but
good spade deep at lesst, and then plant never less than once ; and the best time
your sets of any sort in two rows, rang- of the year for this work is summer,
ing along the middle ; or if you design from about the middle or latter end of
to sow seeds, &c., of any sort at once, June to the end of August, for then the
where you intend to have the hedge, ] hedges will have made their summer
sow them in two drills afoot asunder : shoots, which should always, if possible,

be clipped the same season while in
and i leaf, and before the shoots become
general culture of these sorts of hedges hard, whereby you will be able to per-
il must be remarked, that all such as , form the work more expeditiously and
are exposed to cattle, must as soon as ' with greater exactness, for regular
planted be fenced, either with a stake hedges should be cut as even as a wall
and bush hedge, with hurdles, or with ; on the sides, and the top as straight as
rails and open paling, for four or five J a line; observing, after the hedge is
years, till the hedge grows up, observing i formed to its proper height and width,
not to place the fence too close to the ! always to cut each year's clipping
hedge to interrupt its growth. The [ nearly to the old of the former year,
hedge must also be duly weeded while ', particularly on the side ; for by no
young, and this should be particularly means suffer them to grow above a
attended to the first two years. And if foot or two wide, nor suff'er them to
designed to train the hedge regularly by advance upon you too much at top,
clipping it with garden shears, it should where it is designed or necessary to
be annually performed in summer; ob- i keep them to a moderate height. But
serving, however, to top it but sparingly : to keep hedges in perfectly good order,
while it is young, until arrived at its in- they should be clipped twice every sum-
tended height: only just trim off the nier ; the first clipping to be about mid-
tops of the straggling shoots to preserve ' summer, or soon after, when they will
a little regularity, and promote lateral have made their summer shoots; and
wood to thicken it as it advances, and as they will shoot again, what may be
cut it in also moderately on the sides; called the autumn shoot, the second
but when arrived at nearly its proper clipping is necessary towards the mid-
height of four, five or six feet, or more, die or latter end of August, and they
then trim it close on the sides and top, will not shoot again that year. How-
annually, to preserve it thick, and , ever, when it does not suit to clip them
within its proper bounds ; in cutting the but once in the summer, the clipping
sides always cutting in nearly to the old should not be performed until the be-
wood of the former year's cut, other- ginning of August, for if cut sooner
wise your hedge will get too broad ; and they will shoot again, and appear al-
keep always the top narrower than the most as rough the remainder of the

bottom.

summer and all winter as if they had

H E D

2S8

HED

not been clipped. Very high hedges are
both troublesome and expensive to cut.
The clipping is sometimes performed
by the assistance of a high machine,
scaffolding or stage, twenty or thirty
feet high or more, having platforms at
different heights for the men to stand
upon, the whole made to move along
upon wheels ; it is composed of four
long poles for uprights, well framed
together, eight or ten feet wide at bot-
tom, narrowing gradually to four or
five at top, having a platform or stage
at every seven or eight feet high, and
one at the top of all; and upon these
the man stands to work, each platform
having a rail waist high to keep the
man from falling ; and a sort of a ladder
formed on one side for the man to
ascend, and at bottom four low wheels
to move it along ; upon this machine a
man may be employed on each stage
or platform, trimming the hedge with
shears, and sometimes with a garden
hedge bill fixed on a handle five or six
feet long, which is more expeditious,
though it will not make so neat work
as cutting with shears.

A hedge is not only an imperfect
screen, but in other respects is worse
than useless, since nothing can be
trained to it, and its roots exhaust the
soil in their neighborhood very con-
siderably; as the south fence of a gar-
den it may be employed, and hawthorn
is perhaps the worst shrub that could
be made use of. It is the nursery of
the same aphides, beetles, and cater-
pillars, that feed upon the foliage of
the apple and pear, from whence they
spread to the trees nearest the hedge,
and finally overrun the whole garden ;
evergreen are better than deciduous
hedges, and more especially the holly,
which is not so slow a grower as is
generally imagined.

In a cloudy day in April or May, the
wind seems to be actually refrigerated
in passing through a thick hawthorn
hedge, and this may be accounted for
on the same principle that cool air is
obtained in the houses of India, by
sprinkling branches of trees with water
in their verandas. Holly, laurel, and
most evergreens, exhale but little mois-
ture from their leaves, except for about
a month in June, consequently in April
and May, when we most require warmth,
and in September and October, the
leaves of these, when fully exposed to

the sun become heated to the touch to
85° or 90"^. Added to this, hoar frost
or a deposition of moisture of any kind
never attaches so readily or remains
for so long a time upon the foliage of
evergreens as upon the sprays of decid-
uous shrubs, consequently the refrige-
ratory power is greatly diminished.
When the garden is of considerable
extent, three or four acres and up-
wards, it admits of cross-walls or
fences for an increase of training sur-
face and additional shelter.

Hedges should always be clipped into
a conical form, as the diminution of the
branches towards the top increases their
developement at the bottom.

Furze makes one of the best and
handsomest of hedges, if kept regularly
clipped. Upon the formation of such a
hedge, we have the following remarks
by Mr. McI. of Hillsborough : —

" The most ancient and perhaps the
most simple of all fences are walls
made of turf. These walls, however,
are much injured by the atmosphere,
and the rubbing and butting of the cat-
tle. To guard against this they should
be planted or sown with the Ulex Euro-
paus or Furze. The roots of this plant
will soon penetrate the turf, and tend
to bind the wall. The plants not only
afford shelter as well as food for the
cattle, but add to the height of the wall
and give it a formidable appearance.
When walls are made for this, the
foundation should be three feet wide,
and tapering to fifteen inches at top.
As the plants advance in growth, they
should be regularly trimmed with the
shears ; by proper attention to this they
will be prevented from growing too tall
and thin at the bottom. If this is an-
nually repeated, the plants will be
longer preserved in a healthy and vig-
orous state; clipping has also a good
effect in checking the furze from spread-
ing over the field. A good and substan-
tial fence may thus be quickly formed
over on a soil that will not produce a
biding fence of any other kind.

" Sweet Briar (Rosa Rubiginosa)
makes a good hedge. Its heps may be
sown in the autumn, as soon as ripe,
or, which is better, in the month of
March, having kept them in the mean
time mixed with sand. But it is far
more convenient to buy for sweet briar
layeryoung plants from the nurserymen,
and to plant them a foot apart early in

HED

289

H E L

the month of November. Let them
grow as tliey like the first year, and cut
them down to the ground the second,
they will then spring up and require
no more future care, than occasional
trimming with the pruning knife or
shears so as to keep the hedge in
shape. When it gets naked at the
bottom, it must be again cut down." —
Card. Chron.

The Laurustinus, Phillyrea, Laurel,
Furze, &c., referred to in the foregoing
article, are not sufficiently hardy to re-
sist the winter of the middle states, and
some of them would, it is presumed,
scarcely withstand the sun of the South-
ern. For ornamental hedges it is safer to
rely on the red and white Cedar, Chinese
and American Arborvitas, Juniper, Ame-
rican Holly, Variegated Euonymus,
Hemlock Spruce, &c. For purposes
of protection the Madura or Osage
Orange is unquestionably the best,
wherever it can sustain the winter —
which it is able to do so far North as
New York. The Buck Thorn (Rham-
nus catharticus) has been highly recom-
mended, more especially for colder
climates. The English method of plant-
ing on an elevated bank with ditch on
one or both sides, is inapplicable to
this country, where excess of moisture is
seldom felt : in other respects the mode
of treatment detailed in the preceding
article may be pursued in this climate.

For an interesting paper on this sub-
ject see Dowiiing's " Horticulturist."

HEDWIGIA balsamifera. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam and
peat.

HEDYCHIUM. Twenty-two species.
Stove herbaceous. Division. Light rich
soil.

HEDYSARUM. Twenty species.
Hardy herbaceous. Division or seed.
Sandy loam and peat.

H E I M I A. Three species. Half-
hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. San-
dy loam and peat.

HELENIUM. Eight species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division or seed. Com-
mon soil.

HELIANTHEMUM. One hundred
and twenty-one species. Chiefly hardy
and hall-hardy shrubs or trailers. Cut-
tings and seed. Sandy loam and peat.

HELIANTHUS. Thirty-four species.
Hardy herbaceous and annual. Seed.
Common soil. See Sunflower and Je-
rusalem. Artichoke.
19

HELIOCARPUS americanus. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandj
loam and peat.

HELIOPHILA. Twenty-three spe-
cies. Hardy annuals and green-house
evergreen shrubs. Seeds or cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

HELIOPSIS. Three species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Common soil.

HELIOTROPIUM. Seventeen spe-
cies. Hardy annuals, and green-house
evergreen shrubs. Seed or cuttings.
Common soil.

The following are good directions for
the culture of the Heliotrope : —

" Prepare in August as many shallow
thirty-two sized pots as will be required,
by fdling them to the depth of an inch
and a half with broken crocks, upon
which a layer of the rough sifiings of
leaf mould should be laid ; the remain-
ing space should be tilled with a mix-
ture of finely sifted leaf mould and
silver sand, previously well incorporat-
ed, which when pressed down (irmly,
should be exactly level with the border
of the pots.

" For cuttings, the tips of the young
shoots about three inches in length,
should be chosen, and these should be
taken off immediately below a joint or
the base of a leaf bud.

"After removing two or three of the
lower leaves, plant the cuttings in the
pots prepared, about an inch and a half
deep, and two inches apart ; water them
well with a fine rose two or three times,
so that every part of the soil may be
thoroughly moistened, which may easi-
ly be known by the water percolating
tlirough the bottom of the pots. If this
is not attended to, and the surface soil
alone is penetrated by the water, cer-
tain failure will be the result.

"The cuttings, when planted, should
be removed to a cucumber or other
frame, where a tolerably damp heat
can be supplied ; they should be kept
shaded from the sun, and air admitted
in small quantities, only during the hot-
test part of the day. In about a fort-
night, the plants will begin to form
roots, and the shading may be gradually
diminished during the morning and af-
ternoon ; the quantity of air given them
may be increased by degrees, and at
the end of a month from the time ot
planting, the cuttings will be ready for
potting off singly.

" For this purpose large sized sixties

HEK

are lot adapCed, aad the aoil dMMld I
W i <—|w>«gJ of eqmal puti of louai
aad araady peat, widi aaall ({aaaAitiea
•f leaf aoald aad vdl deeajed bs-
■are. Tke tvo latter oalj dedd be
afted, Aie Iiiaai aad peat beiag left
ntlicr ro^t, aad a &ir portkMi oT
dniaa^e beiag aaed, will aDow tke
«alcr to pass t/S Mote fteelj, wUdi is !
af tbe gicaleat: coaoeqaeace daciag the
mmtia Boatbs; Ae tipa«>f Ae ahoetsi
dboald also be piached ofi* to reader Ike i
^aats basbnr.

" Whem iwtted, Aej my be takes
badi to tbe fiaBe aad kept laAcr dooe
iar a fev dajs, aatfl Aiej begia to root
iato tdhe fiedi soil, after whKb air bmj
be fiedy ^Bitted to tbea. .Aboattlie
begiaaing of October th^ any be re-
moved to aa airy part of the gr^i~-
hoaa^ vhere, if pratected fioai r-
aad dae atSeatJOB will be paid to ^.l-
tenag, tihey will aarwire the wiater aa- i
iBJaied.'^ — GanL CTi—.

The Heliotrope Smms aa adwraUe
bolder plaat; wbea plained or plaated
oat eative, the blomo is pcodaeed ia
JaeifaiMliMe p«ofaMoa ihiuijghuat td>e
nwiaiiTr, ewea tiU the appuMfb of frost;
wbea it aiay be ie|inttrdj, aad ifured .
to a place of delter, a^aia to oecapy \,
its Offit door post, am Ae letara of aoa»- :^
■er weatter.

HEI.L£BO]t1IiS. Siiae ipnaea. I
Hardy heibaceooK. Seed aad diwiraoa. i
CoiaBoasinl.

HELX£BiIA. Tface apeaeaL. Store
herbaceoaa. DiriMn. li^A tiA aoHL

HELOmAS. Three ipecies. Hardy
herboceoas. Divtsoa. Moist peat.

HKUKBOCAIJJS. Fire spe«»es.
Hardy heibaceoas. Dtviaoa. L^bti

HEMICLIDIA JSoiierr. Grces-
hoase eTevsveea sfatab. CMliags. TWrfy
hRoa, peat^aoid aaad.

HEMIDESMirSniduaB. Store eier-
gieca twiaer. Cattiags. Loaai aad peat.

HEMDiXXIS auateaa. Stoveberb-
aceows. Catti^a. Loaat aad peat.

H£iaO]!frnS jmlmmtm Stove feia.
DihrialoB. Loaai aad peat.

HEMLOCK. Caanak

HEMLOCE SPKOCE. Pinna caas-

HE3S^A3nM:HM:JLKa.!S. SeeAswf.
HKliCSATREE.
HEPATICA. F<
VmrieUa. — 1. Great a^le Rae. 3.
Staudl Blae. 3. Paiple. -1. Leaser

White. 5. Great White. 6.
loared, or Aigeatiial. 7. White with
red ataaeaa. 8. Red. 9. Doable
Pafple. 10. DoaUe Blae. 11. DoaUe
While. 12. Sugie Yellow. 13. Peaeh-
coloaKed. 14. Sagle Piak.— ITsrical-
faralCUnuf.

They are piopagated by divinoa of
Ae roots ; aad grow best ia sandy loaai,
oa a weU-draiaed or t^tea sabsnl.

ma*! \ I.rTS b^lmmx. Gardea Swift.

A aolh, of wUch the caterpillar is

laeie iadwcfiiaiaate ia ita aitadta lyoa

oar j^aats thas «« aay other rav^o- of

tir ri-iri. T" ■ U rf amicalas,

n - I • : : ■ . paianpa, lefc-

;-F. £-a stiawber-

~ : destroyed

-n^llv, is

:*>5ly.

timea this '
the appe

May, aad .

eveao^ ia

places. T

ready ariiiLi

saoa hatci

daced are

a^ute, aritt -

apper part w ^

Thec^erp... -

sUaiagcylbc. :•:::.:: —

heraca: 7} A

Hardy aar ^
HEBBA :
pereaaials
aaally, arh:. \:
ia die earth.

herba:

adrygaur^'^:

acoilectior.

faOy dried .

of aach a :

aace a Ai .

serred ia :

|daats, w>

graver woe .

oaght to c t

carried home -jl \

be dried bypres^

or wiA a hot bbl' :

these has its advaata^ea. M prcaaare

be eaaployed, a botaaical press any be

procared. The ptesa is nade of two

naoodi boards of hard wood, 18 iacbes

loag, 13 broad, aad 2 thick. Screws

■nut be fixed ia eadi cocaer wiA aats.

HER

291

HER

If a press cannot easily be had, books moved, and the plants examined. I

may be employed. Next, some quires not sufficiently dried, they mav again

of unsized blotting paper must be pro- be replaced in the same manner for a

vided. The specimens, when taken day or two. In drying plants with a

out of the tin box, must be carefully hot smoothing iron, they must be placed

spread on a piece of pasteboard, co- within several sheets of blotting paper,

vered with a single sheet of the paper, and ironed till they become sufficiently

quite dry; then three or four sheets of dry. This method answers best for dr\--

the same paper must be placed above ing succulent and mucilaginous plants,

the plant, to imbibe the moisture as it When properly dried, the specimens

is pressed out. It is then to be put into should be placed in sheets of writing

the press. As many plants as the press paper, and may be slightly fastened bv
will hold may be piled up in this man-
ner. At first, they ought to be pressed
gently. After being pressed for about
twenty-four hours, the plants ought to
be examined, that any leaves or petals

making the top and bottom of the stalk
pass through a slip of the paper, cut for
the purpose. The name of the genus
and species should be written down,
the place where it was found, nature of
which have been folded may be spread the soil, and the season of the year,
out, and dry sheets of paper laid over These specimens may be collected into
them. They may now be replaced in
the press, and a greater degree of pres-
sure applied. The press ought to stand
near a fire, or in the sunshine. After
remaining two days in this situation,
they should be again examined, and
dry sheets of paper be laid over them.
The pressure ought then to be con-
siderably increased. After remaining
three days longer in the press, the

genera, orders, and classes, and titled
and preserved in a portfolio or cabinet.
The method of preserving many of the
cryptogamous plants is more difficult,
on account of the greater quantity of
moisture which they contain, and the
greater delicacy of their texture." — En-
cyc. Am.

HERBARY was a department of the
garden formerly much more cultivated

plants may be taken out, and such as than at present, when the more potent
are sufficiently dry may be put in a dry medicinal plants of hotter climates are
sheet of writing paper. Those plants so easily procurable. The following is
which are succulent may require more a list of the tenants of the herbary, the
pressure, and the blotting paper to be appropriate cultivation of which will be

found under their particular titles : —

again renewed. Plants which dry very
quickly ought to be pressed with con-
siderable force when lirst put into the
press; and, if delicate, the blotting
paper should be changed every day.
When the stem is woody, it may be
thinned with a knife, and, if the flower
be thick or globular, as the thistle, one Caraway
side of it may be cut away, as all that Chamomile
is necessary, in a specimen, is to pre-
serve the character of the class, order,
genus, and species. Plants may be
dried in a box of sand in a more expe-
ditious manner ; and this method pre-
serves the colour of some plants better.
The specimens, after being pressed for
ten or twelve hours, must be laid with-
in a sheet of blotting paper. The box
must contain an inch deep of fine dry

Angelica.

Balm.

Basil.

Blessed Thistle.

Borage.

Burnet.

Chervil.

Coriander.

Dill.

Hyssop.

Lavender.

Liquorice.

Marigold.

Marjoram.

Mint.

Pennyroyal.

Peppermint.

Purslane.

Rue.

Sage.

Savory.

Scurvy Grass.

Tansy.

Tarragon.

Thyme.

Wormwood.

sand on which the sheet is to be placed, clava Herculis.

HERBERTIApu/f?ie//a. Half-hardy
bulb. Seed. Sandv loam and peat.
HERB-GRACE. 'See Rue.
HERCULES-CLUB. Xanthoxylum

H E R M A N N I A .

and then covered with sand an inch

thick ; another sheet may then be de- j Green-house evergreen

posited in the same manner, and so on, ■ tings. Light rich soil

till the box be full. The box must be

placed near a fire for two or three days. Hardy and half-hardy orchids

Then the sand must be carefully re- | sidn. Chalk and peat

Forty species,
shrubs. Cut-

H E R M I N I U M . Three species.
Divi-

HER

292

HOE

HERON'S-BILL. Erodium.

HERPESTIS. Three species. Aqua-
tic perennials, stove or hard}'. Seed
or division. Rich light soil.

HERRERIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Division. Loan)
and peat.

HESPERANTHA. Six species.
Green-house bulbs. Offsets. Sand,
Loam, and peat.

HESPERIS. Rocket. Fifteen spe-
cies, besides varieties. Hardy herba-
ceous and annual. Division or seed.
Rich light soil.

HESPEROSCORDUM. Two species.
Hardy bulbs. Offsets. Sandy soil.

HETERANTHERA. Three species.
Aquatics, stove, green-house, and har-
dy. Division. Sandy soil, in water.

HETEROPTERIS. Eight species.
Chiefly stove evergreen climbers. Cut-
tings. Sand, peat, and loam.

HEUCHERA. Nine species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Light soil.

HIBBERTIA. Ten species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs and twiners.
Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

HIBISCUS. Sixty-nine species, be-
sides varieties. Some annual and bien-
nial, but chiefly perennials, both hardy
and tender. Mr. Paxton says, " the

HOE. This is the implement which
should be most frequently in the gar-
dener's hand, for the surface of the soil
can never be too frequently stirred. I
entirely agree with Mr. Barnes in think-
ing the hoe one of the gardener's best
friends ; and, as it always must be a
more frequently used implement than
any other, what is the best form of its
construction deserves some considera-
tion. The handles should never be
made of heavy wood, for this wearies
the hand, and is altogether a uselessly
heavy weight thrown upon the work-
man. It is merely the lever, and every
ounce needlessly given to this, dimin-
ishes, without any necessity, the availa-
ble moving power. The best woods
for handles are birch or deal.

For earthing up plants, broad blades
to hoes are very admissible, and they
may, without objection, have a breadth
of nine inches; but this permission of
breadth does not extend to hoes re-
quired for loosening the soil and de-
stroying weeds. These should never
extend to beyond a breadth of six inch-
es, and the work will be done best by
one two inches narrower. The iron
plate of which they are formed should
be well steeled, and not more than one-

shrubby stove and green-house kinds sixteenth of an inch thick. The weight

all grow from cuttings, and thrive in
loam and peat. //. syriacus, from lay-
ers or seed, in common soil. The
hardy herbaceous kinds require a moist
soil." — Bot. Diet.

HIDE-BOUND. See Bark-hound.

HIERACIUM. One hundred and
nineteen species. Chiefly hardy herba-
ceous. H. glutinosum is an annual.
Seed in the open soil. The others by
division in light soil.

HILLIA. Two species. Stove ever-
green shrubs. Cuttings. Turfy loam
and sand.

HIPPEASTRUM. Two species.
Stove bulbs. Offsets. Turfy loam and
peat.

HIPPION. Three species. Green-
house biennials. Seed. Light rich soil.

HIPPOCREPIS. Nine species. Har-
dy perennial trailers and annuals. Cut-
tings or seed. Sandy loam and peat.

HIPPOPHAE. Four species. Har-
dy trees. Layers or cuttings. Common
soil.

HIRjEA. Four species. Stove ever-
green climbers. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

necessary should be thrown by the
workman's arm and body upon the
handle, and the thicker the blade, the
greater is the pressure required to make
it penetrate the soil. It should be set
on the handle at an angle of 68^, as
this brings its edge when used at a good
cutting angle with the surface of the
soil, and the workman soon learns at
what point most effectively to throw
his weight, and holds the handle fur-
ther from, or nearer to the blade, ac-
cordingly as he is a tall or short man.
Mr. Barnes, of Bicton Gardens, whose
opinions relative to hoeing I have al-
ready quoted, has paid considerable
attention to the formation of this im-
plement, and has favoured me with a
letter upon the subject, from which I
will now give some extracts.

He employs nine sized hoes, the
smallest having a blade not more than
one-fourth of an inch broad, and the
largest ten inches. The smallest are
used for potted plants and seed-beds,
and those from two inches and a half
to four inches wide are used for thin-
ning and hoeing among crops generally.

HOE

293

HOE

These have all handles varying in length ; The whole length of this prong is nine
from eight inches and a half to eighteen inches, and it is attached to a staff five
inches, all the neck or upper part form- feet long. Such an implement is light
ed of iron, for the smaller sizes not ! and easy to use; it requires no sloop-
thicker than a large pencil, and that ing, and will tear up the deepest-rooted
part which has to be grasped by the j weeds."'

workman is only six inches long, and ; Hoes are made in a great variety of
" formed either of willow or some other forms; the following, figured in The
soft light wood, which is best to the feel Rural Register, are those most gene-
of the hand; for hard heavy wood is ' rally used, and perhaps are all which
cumbersome, harsh, and tiring." Each i are truly desirable ; they are, when well

labourer works " with one in each hand,
to cut right and left." "The blade is
made thin, and with a little foresight
and activity it is astonishing how much
ground can be got over in a short
time."

Mr. Barnes has all his hoes made
with a crane neck. The blades broader
than four inches Mr. Barnes has made
like a Dutch hoe.

"The crane neck allows the blade
to pass freely and kindly under the fo-
liage of any crop where the earth re-
quires loosening; and the blade works
itself clean, allowing the earth to pass
through, as there is no place for it to
lodge and clog up as in the old-fash-
ioned hoc, to clean which, when used
of a dewy morning, causes the loss of
much time in scraping."

" The draw-hoe" is correctly de-
scribed by Mr. Loudon as a " plate of
iron attached to a handle about four
feet long, at an angle less than a right
angle. The blade is either broad for
cutting weeds, deep and strong for
drawing earth to the stems of plants,
curved, so as to act like a double
mould-boarded plough in drawing drills,
formed into two strong broad prongs
for stirring hard adhesive soils, — or it
is formed to accomplish the first and
last purposes, as in the double hoe or
Dutch hoe.

" The thrust-hoe consists of a plate
of iron attached somewhat obliquly to
the end of a handle by a bow, used only
for killing weeds or loosening ground
which is to lie afterwards raked. As
a man can draw more than he can push,
most heavy work will be easiest done
by the draw-hoc." — f2nc. Gard.

In the island of Guernsey a very ef-
fective weeding-prong is used, and is
thus described in the Gardener^s Chron-
icle : —

" It is something in the shape of a
hammer, the head flattened into a chisel
an inch wide, and the fork the same.

made, of cast steel.

Square garden Hoe.

Fig. 79.

Pronged-back
Hoe. Fig. SI.

Forked-back
Hoe. Fig. 82.

Dutch or Scuffle
Hoe. Fig. 85.

HOI

294

HON

HOITZIA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandv loam and peat.

HOLLY {Ilex aqui folium.) Of this
hardy evergreen shrub there are eight
varieties: — 1, silver-edged ; 2, golden-
edged ; 3, thick-leaved; 4, prickly;
5, yellow-leaved; 6, variegated; 7,
spotted ; 8, recurvum. It is so desira-
ble, as an ornamental and as a hedge-
shrub, that it deserves some more par-
ticular notice.

If grown as single ornamental shrubs,

in any poor light sandy soil, or in a
swampy situation, but likes a strong,
deep, dry, loamy soil." — Card. Chron.

The best season for clipping hollies
is early in spring, before they make
their annual growth.

The European Holly does not fully
resist the winter of Pennsylvania, un-
less on well drained land, and further
north it is probable it would suffer much
more, except in the vicinity of the sea,
where many plants do well that are not
able to withstand the winter of the same

they " should not be overshadowed by i latitude in the interior

other trees; and if the land is manured
for it so much the better. As to prun-
ing it, with a view to make it grow fast,
the less you do of that the better. All
that is necessary is to encourage the
leader, if necessary, by stopping any
laterals that try to interfere with it. In
the nurseries, when hollies are stunted
and bushy-headed, they are headed
down with a view to obtaining a clean
straight shoot; but they should not be
allowed to become stunted, and then
there would be no need to cut them
back. In hollies and all other things.

Our own native Holly, {Ilex opaca,)
is a fine plant too long overlooked. —
Why do not persons of taste decorate
their grounds with this noble American
evergreen, which will grow in any soil,
and resist the winter's frost and sum-
mer's sun throughout the length and
breadth of our continent.

HOLLYHOCK {Althaa rosea). There
is also a sub-species. A. R. Biloba.
This flower has lately gained the atten-
tion from florists it deserves; and there
are now many varieties. Dr. Lindley
justly observes that, "the hollyhock is

stop where necessary ; but prune not at j little more than a biennial, and fre-
all if you can help it." — Gard. Chron. \ quently dies suddenly if sown too early
Large plants will bear moving: " if; in the first season, or if allowed to re-
they are shifted in wet weather, as, for \ main long in the seed-bed before trans-
example, at the beginning of the July j planting ; therefore the best way to
rains, or at any other period when a ■ keep them in health is not to sow them
week or ten days of dull damp weather i before June, and when large enough to

can be calculated upon, they are certain
to succeed. The season least exposed
to risk is perhaps the end of autumn,
in the dull damp part of October or
November; the worst season is the
spring." — Gard. Chron.

Dr. Lindley says that " the most ex-
peditious way of making holly-hedges is
to procure large plants from some nur-
sery ; but, with the smallest expense
and more time, the following may be
recommended : —

" Gather a sufficient quantity of ber-
ries when ripe; then dig a hole three
or four feet deep, and throw the berries
in, crushing and mixing them with some
fine soil at the same time; close the
hole with the soil taken out, and throw
some litter, or other covering, over the
whole, to prevent the wet or frost pen-
etrating about them in beds. They
will make nice little plants the first sea-
son ; and by transplanting the stronger

transplant them singly where they are
to remain and flower in the following
season : afterwards cut them down as
soon as they have done flowering, and
remove them to a fresh situation, where
the ground has been well manured, be-
fore winter. By continuing this treat-
ment you may keep the same variety
for years." — Gard. Chron.

HOMERIA. Ten species. Green-
house bulbs. Offsets. Loam, peat, and
sand.

HONESTY. Lunaria,

HONEY-BERRY. Melicocca.

HONEY-DEW. See Extravasated
Sap.

HONEY-FLOWER. Melianthus.

HONEY-GARLIC. Nee t arose or dum.

HONEYSUCKLE. {Lonicera peri-
clymemim.) This hardy, beautiful, and
fragrant flowering shrub will grow in
almost any soil, and will thrive where
ew others will, under the shade of

ones, vou will have fine plants in about trees. There are the following sub-
three years. The holly will not thrive species : —

HON

295

HOR

1. Periclymenuin Semper virens; too long for the space allotted for them,
Perfoliate evergreen; Virginia Honey- especially all those with weak strag-
suckle, which always flowers, common- I gling tops; and nail in the remaining

ly called Trumpet Honeysuckle.

2. Periclymenum Racemosum, Ho-
neysuckle with yellowiih flowers, grow-
ing in bunches, and a snowy fruit.

3. Periclymenum Verticillatum, ano-
ther tree-like honeysuckle, with in-

branches and shoots close to the wall.

Propagation is effected by layers and
cuttings, more particularly the latter,
both of which readily emit roots, and
form plants in one year, fit to trans-
plant. Some sorts are also propagated

fleeted branches, and a coral-coloured by suckers and by seed
flower. By Layers. — In autumn, winter, or

4. Periclymenum Germanicum, the spring, lay a quantity of the lower

German honeysuckle. young shoots of the former summer,

5. Periclymenum Italianum, Italian ; shortening their straggling tops ; they

honeysuckle.

will be well rooted by the autumn fol-

6. Periclymenum Vulgare, honey- lowing, each commencing a good plant.

suckle with a corymbus of flower ter-
minating the stalks, hairy leaves, grow-
ing distinct, and very slender branches,
commonly called English Honeysuckle,
or Woodbine.

and should be taken off, and planted in
nursery rows, for a year or two, to ac-
quire proper size and strength for use.

By Cuttings. — Any time from Octo-
ber till March, is the proper time for

7. Periclymenum Americanum, the , this work, but the sooner the better.

evergreen honeysuckle.

and by which method prodigious quan-

Ae to the general culture, they require , titles of the plants may be raised, as al-
very little; the upright sorts in particu- , most every cutting will readily grow,
lar, require to have only their straggling i Choose of the young shoots of the
shoots shortened, and dead wood cut previous summer, the strongest and

out; and the trailing kinds, which are
trained as climbers, must have their
branches conducted in a proper man-
ner upon their respective supports;

most robust, which divide into cuttingB
from about six or eight to ten or fifteen
inches long, plant them in rows in any
shady border of common earth, a foot

nd every year all rambling shoots asunder, and half that distance apart in
must be reduced and trained as you each row, or closer if greater ((uaiitities
shall see proper, so as to preserve them are required, putting of each cutting
within due limits; unless you design ' two parts out of three of its length into
they shall run wild in their own rural the ground; they will take root freely,
way, especially those intended to climb and shoot at top so as to form proper
among the branches of tree/, shrubs, plants l)y autumn or winter following,
and bushes; those also intended and at which time tiiey may be transplanted
trained annually, laying the shoots , into the nursery quarters to have more
alongat their length, especially till they room to grow, placing them in rows
have covered the allotted space; short- two feet distance, and a foot apart in
ening or clearing out, however, all such the rows, where let them remain a year
stragglers as cannot be properly train- or two, or till wanted for the shrub-
ed; likewise such of those sorts as are , bery.

trained against walls, S:c., must have By Seed. — If sowed in autumn in a
an annual pruning and training, by go- bed of common mould an inch deep,
ing over them two or three times in many of the plants will probably rise
summer, laying in some of the most in spring ; but a great part of them are
convenient shoots, some at their length, apt to remain till the second spring be-

shortening or trenching others, as it
shall seem necessary to preserve regu-
larity, and the proper succession of
flowers ; observing, however, to train
enough, at this time particularly, of
such as shall appear necessary to con-
tinue the bloom as long as possible;
and in winter pruning, thin out all those herbaceous
left in summer which may now appear mon soil,
superfluous, and shorten all such as are

fore thev appear. (Ahercrombie.)

HONEYWORT. Cerinthe.

HOOP-PETTICOAT. JNarcissus bul-
bocodium.

HOP-HORNBEAM. Phologophora.

HOREHOUNU. Marrubium.

HORKELLIA. Two species. Hardy
Seed and division. Com-

HOHilNUM pyrenaicum. Hardy

HOR

Seed and division.

296

HOR

Com-

herbaceous
nion soil.

HORN. See Animal Matters.

HORNBEAM. Carpinus.

HORN-OF-PLENTY. Fedia.

HORN-POPPY. Glaucium.

HORSE-CHESTNUT. JSscuIus.
There are the following species and
varieties : —

^^. Hippocastanum. Common horse-
chestnut. Asia. Seeds sown in March.
Flowers in May. Height forty feet.

^. H. folia aurea. Gold-striped
horse-chestnut

crowns of the roots, form the best ;
those taken from the centre never be-
coming so soon fit for use, or of so fine
a growth. If the latter are, however,
unavoidably employed, each set should
I have at least two eyes ; for without one
' they refuse to vegetate at all. For the
obtaining a supply of the crowns, any
inferior piece of ground, planted with
sets six inches apart and six deep, will
furnish from one to five tops each, and
may be collected for several successive
years with little more trouble than
keeping them clear of weeds ; but the

^. H. folia argentea. Silver-striped times for planting are in October and

horse-chestnut,

These two varieties have the same
characteristics as the preceding, but
are propagated by grafting in March.

ji. Jlava. Y'ellow horse-chestnut.

jS. pavia. Scarlet horse-chestnut.

^. pavia rosea
chestnut.

All natives ofCarolina. June. Grafts.
Twenty feet.

Horse-chestnuts all require a light,
rich, well-drained soil, and a sheltered
situation, being much injured by violent
winds. When in blossom they are
strikingly beautiful, and their round
Leads group well with trees having
more pointed forms. They may all be

February — the first for dry soils, the
latter season for moist ones.

The sets are inserted in rows eighteen
inches apart each way. The ground
should be trenched between two and
three feet deep, the cuttings being
Pale scarlet horse- 1 placed along the bottom of the trench,
and the mould turned from the nest
one over them, or inserted to a similar
depth by a long blunt-pointed dibble.
They should be placed in their natural
position, which has considerable influ-
ence over the forwardness of their
growth; the surface raked level, and
kept clear of weeds until the plants
are of such size as to render it unneces-
sary. The mould ought to lie as light

grafted on the common horse-chestnut, as possible over the sets ; therefore,

which is increased bv seed or layers.

HORSE-CHESTNiJT MOTH. See
Bombyx.

HORSE-RADISH. Cochlearia Armo-
racia. Delights in a deep, mouldy, rich
soil, kept as much as possible in a mo-
derate but regular degree of moistness.
Hence the banks of a ditch, or other

treading on the beds should be carefully
avoided. The shoots make their ap-
pearance in May or June, or even ear-
lier if they were planted in autumn.

As the leaves decay in autumn, have
them carefully removed ; the ground
being also hoed and raked over at the
same season, which may be repeated

place which has a constant supply of' in the following spring before they be
" ■' ' " gin to vegetate, at which time eighteen

inches depth of mould to be laid regu-
larly and lightly over the bed.

In the succeeding autumn they mere-

water, is a most eligible situation for
the beds, so that they do not lie so low^
as to have it in excess. If tlie soil is
poor, or beneath the drip of trees, the

roots never attain any considerable size, ly require to be hoed as before, and

Manures. — Should the ground require may be taken up as wanted. By having

to be enriched, leaf-mould, or other tho- three beds devoted to this root, one

roughly decayed vegetable substance, will always be lying fallow and im-

should be dug into the depth at which proving; of which period likewise ad-

the sets are intended to be planted. If vantage should be taken to apply any

cow or horse-dung be employed, it requisite manure.

should be in a highly putrescent state. If, when of advanced growth, the

Propagation. — Horse-radish flowers plants throw out suckers, these should

in June, but in this climate seldom per- be carefully removed, during the sum-

lects its seed, consequently it is propa- mer, as they appear,

gated by sets, which are provided by ' In September or October of the se-

cuttinf the main root and offsets into cond year, as before stated, the roots

lenr'tlis of two inches. The^opSj or may be taken up ; and in November a

H OR

297

HOR

sufficient quantity should be raised to i ract of Syene to the shores of the Delta;

preserve in sand for winter supply.

Taking vp. — To take them up a
trench is dug along the outside row
down to the bottom of the upright
roots, which, by some persons, when
the bed is continued in one place, are
cut off level to the original stool, and
the earth from the next row is then
turned over them to the requisite depth ;
and so in rotation to the end of the
plantation. By this mode a bed wi

but it was when Thebes with its Imn-
dred brazen gates, and the cities of
Memphis and Ileliopolis, were rising
in magnificence, and her stupendous
pyramids, obelisks, and temples, be-
came the wonders of the world. The
hills and plains of Palestine were ce-
lebrated for beautiful gardens; but it
was not until the walls and temple of
Jerusalem announced the power and
intelligence of the Israelites, and the

continue in perfection for five or six i prophets had rebuked their luxury and
years ; after which a fresh plantation is extravagance. The queen of the East
usually necessary. But the best prac- , " had heard of the fame of Solomon ;"
tice is to take the crop up entirely, and his fleets had brought him the gold of
to form a plantation annually; for it , Ophir, and the treasures of Asia and
not only causes the roots to be finer, j Africa ; the kings of Tyre and Arabia
but also affords the opportunity of were his tributaries, and princes his
changing the site. If this mode is fol- ! merchants, when he " made orchards,"
lowed care must be taken to raise every " delighted to dwell in gardens," and
lateral root; for almost the smallest of planted the " vineyard of Baalhaman."
them will vegetate, if left in the ground. ; The Assyrians had peopled the borders
HORSE-RADISH TREE. Moringa. \ of the Tigris and Euphrates, from the

HORSE-THISTLE. Cirsium.

Persian gulf to the mountainous re-

HORTICULTURE (from hortus, gions of Ararat, and their monarchs had
garden, and colo, I till) includes in its founded Nineveh and Babylon, before
most extensive signification, the culti- j we hear of the gardens of Semiramis.
ration of esculent vegetables, fruits and I The Persian empire had extended from
ornamental plants, and the formation the Indus to the Archipelago, when the
and management of rural scenery for paradise of Sardis excited the astonish-
the purposes of utility and embellish- , ment of a Spartan general, and Cyrus
ment. The earliest effort of man to mustered the Grecian auxiliaries in
emerge from a stale of barbarism was ; the spacious garden of Ceh-ena;. The
directed to the tillage of the earth : (Ireeks had repulsed the invasions of
the first seed which he planted was the [ Darius and Xerxes, and Athens had
first act of civilization, and gardening i reached the height of her glory, when
was the first step in the career of re- | Cimon establisheJ the Academus, and
finemcnt ; but still it is an art in which ' presented it to his fellow citizens as a
he last reaches perfection. When the public garden. Numerous others were
savage exchanges the wild and wander- soon planted, and decorated with tem-
ing life of a warrior and hunter, for the
confined and peaceful pursuits of a
planter, the harvests, herds, and flocks
take the place of the simple garden.
The mechanic arts are next developed ;
then commerce commences, and manu-
factures soon succeed. As wealth in-
creases, ambition manifests itself in
the splendor of apparel, of mansions

pies, porticoes, altars, statues and tri-
umphal monuments ; but this was dur-
ing the polished age of Pericles, when
Socrates and Plato taught philosophy
in the sacred groves ; wfien the theatre
was thronged to listen to the poetry of
Euripedes and Aristophanes; when the
genius of" Phidias was displayed in rear-
ing the Parthenon and sculpturing the
equipages and entertainments. Science, statues of the gods; when eloquence
literature, and the fine arts are unfold- ; and painting had reached perfection,
ed, and a high degree of civilization is and history was illustrated by Herodotus,
attained. It is not until all this has Thucydides, and Xenophon. Rome had
taken place, that horticulture is culti- , subjugated the world, and emulated
vated as one of the ornamental arts. ; Athens in literature, science, and the
Egypt, the cradle of civilization, so far arts, w^hen the superb villas of Sallust,
perfected her tillage, that the banks of Crassus, Pompey, Cffisar, Maecenas and
the Nile were adorned by a succession Agrippina were erected, and the pa-
of luxuriant plantations, from the cata- laces of the emperors were environed

HOR

298

HOR

by magnificent gardens. The history j petus to cultivation, which is felt in the
of modern nations presents similar re- 'remotest countries. Its example has
suits. Horticulture long lingered in i been followed in the most flourishing
the rear of other pursuits. Most of the kingdoms of the eastern continent, and
common fruits, flowers and oleraceous many similar institutions have been
vegetables which had been collected by . founded in the United States. The ef-
the Greeks and Romans, from Egypt, ' feet of these is to diffuse through every
Asia and other distant climes, were country the knowledge and products of
successively extended over Western all. The history, literature and science
Europe; but so gradual was their pro- of gardening, open a wide field for stu-
gress, after the dark ages, that, till ^ dy and inquiry. The pleasure which
the reign of Henry VHI., scarcely any gardens aff'orded men, even in the ear-
kitchen vegetables were cultivated in ; liest times, appears from the scriptural
England, and the small quantity con- I account of the garden of Eden. The
sumed was imported from Holland. ! garden of Gethsemane, and that of the
Fuller observes, that " gardening was j good and just Arimathean, are memor-
first brought into England, for profit, j able in the sacred history of the Messiah,
about the commencement of the 17th i The Elysian fields were the heaven of
century. Peaches, nectarines, apricots, ! classic mythology, and the devout Mus-
plums, pears, cherries, strawberries, i sulman hopes to renew his existence
melons, and grapes, were luxuries but | in a celestial paradise. The bards,
little enjoyed before the time of Charles | scholars and philosophers of the classic
n., who introduced French gardening ages, have transmitted descriptions of
at Hampton court, Carlton and Marl- the gardens of the ancients, from those
borough, and built the first hot and ice : in which Homer places the palace of
houses. At this period Evelyn trans- | Alcinous and the cottage of Lartes,
Jated the "Complete Gardener," and a ; to the splendid villas of Pliny and
treatise on orange trees, by Quintinyne ;! Lucullus. Among the ancient Greek
and, having devoted the remainder of | writers, Hesiod, Theophrastus, Xen-
his life to the cultivation of his rural , ophon and JEVmn treated of gardens to
seat at Sayes court, near Deptford, and ' a certain extent; and the works of
the publication of his Sylva, Terra, • those who wrote after the seat of go-
Pomona, and Acetaria, he " first taught I vernment was removed to Constantin-
gardening to speak proper English." 1 ople were collected under the title of
In the Netherlands, France, Germany, i Geoponica, and have been translated by

and Italy, a formal and very imperfect
system of gardening was practised with
considerable success ; but it was ge-
nerally in a languishing condition,
throughout the world, until the com-
mencement of the ISth century, when
it attracted the attention of some of the
first characters of Great Britain ; but
the establishment of the present im-
proved style of horticulture is of very

Owen. Among the Latins, Varro was
the first author, to whom succeeded
Cato, Pliny the Elder, Columella and
Palladius. Passages are to be found,
relative to the subject, in Martial, Virgil
and Horace; but Pliny's Natural Histo-
ry, and Columella's book on gardens,
contain the most correct information
on Roman horticulture. Literature and
the arts having revived in Italy, that

recent date. "Bacon was the prophet, country was the first to produce books
Milton the herald, and Addison, Pope j on agriculture and gardening, and that
and Kent the champions of true taste." j of Crescenzia became celebrated. The
The principles which were developed in field and garden cultures of Italy are
their writings, and those of Shenstone, so nearly allied, and horticulture and

the Masons, and VVheatley, \vere suc-
cessfully applied by Bridgeman, Wright,
Brown, and Eames ; the system soon be-
came popular, and gradually extended
over Europe, and ultimately reached

agriculture have been so blended by the
writers, that it is difficult to ascertain
under which department to include their
works. The best for general informa-
tion on the tillage of that delightful

the United States. But the labours of region is the Annali dell' Agricultura.
the London Horticultural Society have The Germans, as in all the branches of
mainly contributed to the perfection and , letters, science, and arts, have an im-
present high estimation of gardening. ' mense number of books in the depart-
That noble institution has given an im- \ ment of gardening, especially on the

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subject of planting and forest trees. |
Those which furnish the best idea of
the state of culture in that country, are
Dietrich's Worterbuch. with the supple-
ment of 1820, and Sickler's Deutsche
Handwirtshaft. The Dutch excel more
in the practice than the literature of
gardening. They have no work of very
recent date ; that of Comelin, which
was published about the middle of the
17th century, is among the earliest;
and those of La Court and Van Osten
are said to be among the best that have
appeared. The Journal of a Horticul-
tural Tour in Holland and Flanders, by
a deputation of the Caledonian Horti-
cultural Society, gives the most satis-
factory account of gardening in that
part of the continent, in 1S17. The
TransactionsoftheStockholm and Upsal
academies furnish the chief information
which is to be obtained, in relation to ;
the rural economy of Sweden. The i
first author was Rudbeck, who was a I
cotemporary of Commelin. Russia and
Poland have produced but very few
original books on horticulture. The
Agricultural Transactions occasionally
published by a society in Warsaw, with
those of the Economical Society of St.
Petersburg, may be considered as af-
fording the most accurate intelligence
as to the culture of those countries.
In the latter city is an extensive imperial
botanical garden, which being under the
direction of able professors, emulates
those of the more favoured portions of
southern Europe. The only recorded
source for obtaining any knowledge of
Spanish tillage, are the Transactions
of the Royal Agricultural Society of
Madrid. The horticultural literature
of France is of an early date, and the
authors are not only numerous, but
many of them in the highest repute.
Etienne and Belon were the pioneers,
while Du Hamel, Girardin, D'Argen-
ville, Rossier, Tessier,Calvel, Noisette,
Du Petit Thours, Jean and Gabriel
Thouin, Bosc and Vicomte Haricart de
Thury, may be considered as among
the most able of their followers, in the
various branches of rural economy.
For a general knowledge of French
culture, the Nouveau Cours d'Agricul-
ture, in thirteen volumes, published in
1810, should be consulted ; but the
most valuable publications on the exist-
ing mode of gardening, are the monthly
Annales de la Socitti d^ Horticulture,

the Annales de I'Institut Royal Jlorti-
cole de Framont, and the Bon Jardinier,
an annual publication compiled by pro-
fessor Poiteau and Vilmorin. The first
English treatise on rural economy was
Fitzherbert's Book of Husbandry, which
was published in 1C34. The works of
Tusser, George and Piatt soon after ap-
peared, and, early in the 18th century,
the celebrated treatise of Jethro Tull
excited much attention ; and several
new works of considerable merit were
announced before 1764, when the valu-
able publications of Arthur Young,
Marshal, and numerous other authors,
spread a knowledge of cultivation, and
cherished a taste for rural improve-
ments, throughout Great Britain. The
literature of horticulture rapidly ad-
vanced ; but as many of the most emi-
nent writers have been named, in treat-
ing of the science and art of gardening,
it is unnecessary to mention them in
this place. The citizens of the United
States have been chiefly dependent on
England for books relating to agricul-
ture and gardening. Still several have
appeared by native writers, which are
highly creditable to the authors and the
country; especially those which relate
to the botanical department. Muhlen-
burg, Bigelow, Eliot, Torry, Colden,
Bartram, Barton, Hosack, Mitchel, Dar-
lington, Ives, Dewey and Hitchcock,
are entitled to great praise for their
successful attempts to illustrate the
American flora. One of the earliest
writers on husbandry was Belgrove,
who published a treatise on husband-
ry, in Boston, in 17.5.5; and in 1790
Deane's New England Farmer appeared;
but McMahon, Cox, Thacher, Adlam,
Prince, Buntly, Butler, Nicholson and
Fessenden, since the commencement
of the present century, have produced
works on the various cultures of the
United States, which are generally cir-
culated, and lield in great estimation.
The scientific relations of horticulture
are numerous, and require an extensive
acquaintance with the various branches
of natural history and physics. Bota-
ny, mineralogy, chemistry, hydraulics,
architecture and mechanics must furnish
their several contributions, which it is
the province of the artist to apply.
After the illustrious Linnajus published
his system of Nature, botany became a
popular science, and a variety of in-
teresting elementary works awakened

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attention to the beauties of nature, and I for its numerous superb edifices, exten-
a passion for experimental and orna- sive prospects, and the systematical
mental planting was induced, wliich j arrangement of the pleasure grounds,
lias been productive of great results. ! than for the improvements and decora-
Mineralogy enables us to obtain ac- i tions of the surrounding scenery, in
curate knowledge of terrestrial sub- | accordance with those principles which
stances, and the mode of distinguishing are derived from a close observance
the divers kinds of earths, which con- ! of the pleasing effects of nature. The
stitute a cultivable soil ; and chemistry j rural residences of the Romans appear
instructs us as to the nature and pro- ^ to have been mere places of temporary
perties of these various earths, having | retreat, and were planted with odorife-
for its objects, when applied to horti- | rous flowers and shrubs and ornamented
culture, ail those changes in the ar- | rather by the civil architect than the
rangements of matter, which are con- [ horticultural artist. From the estab-
nected with the growth and nourishment ; lishment of the papal government to
of plants, the comparative value of, the commencement of the 13th centu-
their produce as food, the constitution ' ry, the monks were the only class of
of soils, the manner in which lands are , persons who attended to ornamental
enriched by manure, or rendered fertile [ gardening. After that period, the style
by the different processes of cultivation. : prevalent throughout Europe consisted
Inquiries of such a nature cannot but in tall hedges, square parterres fiintas

be interesting and important, both to
the theoretical horticulturist and the
practical gardener. To the first they
are necessary in applying most of the
fundamental principles on which the
theory of the art depends. To the se-

ticaliy planted, straight walks, and rows
of trees uniformly placed and pruned.
In fact, but little improvement was
made from the time of the emperors^
Vespasian and Titus until the reign of
George III. of England. It is true,

cond they are useful in affording simple I Hampton Court had been laid out by
and easy experiments for directing his i Cardinal Wolsey; Le Notre had plant-
labours, and for enabling him to pursue I ed Greenwich and St. James's Park
a certain and systematic plan of im- ! during the reign of Charles II. ; and, in
provement. To hydraulics belong, not , that of George II., Queen Caroline had
only the conducting and raising of water enlarged Kensington Gardens, and form-
with the construction of pumps and other i ed the Serpentine river; but Lord Ba-
engines for those purposes, but the laws | thurst was the first who deviated from
which explain the nature of springs i straight lines, as applied to ornamental
and fountains. By the principles of j pieces of water, by following the natu-
that science, artificial lakes, canals and I ral courses of a valley. Still, what has
aqueducts are formed, irrigations pro- j been emphatically called the Dufc/i sys-
jected, and water rendered subservient ' /em universally prevailed, and the shear

to the useful purposes of life, as well
as to the embellishments of pleasure-
grounds by jets d'eau, cascades and
streams. Architecture, as a branch of
horticulture, is of the first importance.
Without its aid, it would be impossible
to give that propriety and elegance to

ing of yew, box and holly into formal
figures of various kinds, and the shaving
of river banks into regular slopes, went
on until their absurdity became con-
temptible, and a better and more natural
taste was induced. Verdant sculpture,
regular precision in the distribution of

the scenery, and to produce that pleas- compartments and rectangular boundary
ing effect, which is the chief object of walls, yielded to more chaste designs,
landscape gardening. Mechanics, in all j Bridgenian succeeded to Loudon (not the
its branches, is required for the purposes distinguished author) and Wise, and be-
of horticulture. Great improvements ] came a distinguished artist; he rejected
have been effected in gardening within ! many of the absurd notions of his pre-
the last half century. During the age decessors, and enlarged the bounds of
of Cicero, a formal kind of gardening horticulture. Other innovators depart-
prevailed, characterized by clipped ed from the rigid rules of symmetry ;
hedges and long avenues of trees. ; but it was reserved for Kent to realize
Pliny the Younger has given an account i the beautiful descriptions of the poets,
of his villa at Laurentum, and from the and carry the ideas of Milton, Pope,
description, it was rather distinguished 1 Addison and Mason more extensively

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into execution. According to Lord continued in repute for upwards of a
Walpole, he was painter enough to century ; tor it appears to have been in
taste the charms of landscape, suffi- vogue as late as 1770. The court and
ciently bold and opinionative to dare nation wished to be dazzled by novelty
and to dictate, and born with a genius and singularity, and his long, clipped
to strike out a great system from the alleys, triumphal arches, richly deco-
twilight of imperfect essays. He leap- 1 rated parterres, his fountains and cas-
ed the fence, and saw that all nature! cades, with their grotesque and strange
was a garden. The great principles on • ornaments, his groves full of architec-
which he worked were perspective, i ture and gilt trellises, and his profusion
light and shade. Groups of trees broke | of statues, enchanted every class of ob-
a too extensive lawn ; evergreens and servers. His principal works were the
wood were opposed to the glare of the ' gardens of Versailles, Meudon, St.
champaign, and, by selecting favourite Cloud, Sceaux, Chantilly, and the ter-
objects, and veiling deformities, he re- race of St. Germain. Gray, the poet,
alized the compositions of the great was struck with their splendor when
masters in painting. Where objects ! filled with company, and when the
were wanting to animate his horizon, ' water-works were in full action; but
his taste as an architect could immedi-^ Lord Kaimes says, they would tempt
ately produce them. His buildings, one to believe, that nature was below
his temples, his seats, were more the! the notice of a great monarch. Le
work of his pencil than of his science Nijtre was succeeded by Dufresny, who,
as a constructor. He bade adieu to differing considerably in taste from that
all the stiff modes of canals, circular, great artist, determined on inventing a
basins, and cascades tumbling over | more picturesque style ; but his efforts
marble steps. Dealing in none but the I were rarely carried into full execution,
true colours of nature, and seizing upon | He, however, constructed in a manner
its most interesting features, a new i superior to his predecessor, the gardens
creation was gradually presented. The j of Abbe Pajot and those of Moulin and
living landscape was chastened or po- , Chemin creux. After the peace of 1762,
lished, not transformed. The elegant! the English system began to pass into
works of Rcpton, the unrivalled essays , France, and portions of ancient gardens
of Price on the picturesque, and the ' were destroyed, to make way for young
valuable pulilications of Gilpin, Madock, plantations a l^Anglaise. Laugier was
Panty, Sang and Loudon, with those of the first author who espoused the Eng-
many other writers on landscape and j lish style, and the next in order was
ornamental gardening, have had an ex- i Prevot. It was at this time that Viscount
tensive influence in promoting correct ! Girardin commenced his improvements
ideas of natural scenery. The improv- j at P>menonville, and the change of the
ed style of horticulture, every where horticultural taste in France, may be
apparent in Great Britain, attracted the : referred to the last quarter of the 18th
attention of the other nations of Europe, century. The English style has gra-
and English gardening became the de- , dually found its way into most civilized
signation for all that was beautiful in | countries. Only 25 years have elapsed
that pleasing art — the synonyme of per- since the London Horticultural Society
fection in rural culture. At the period ! was established, and there are now more
when this new system of laying out | than 50 similar institutions in Great
ground was gaining converts, and be- Britain, which still maintains the first
gan to be practically adopted, Viscounts rank in the art ; but France is making
Girardin, a French military officer of| great efforts to rival her. A horticul-
high rank, travelled through England, [ tural society was established in Paris
and, on his return, he not only improved | in 1S26, and has already more than two
his seat at Ermenonville in conformity thousand members, and the number is
to that style, but published a work of| rapidly increasing. It has been patron-
great celebrity on the Composition des ] ised by the court, and most of the nobles
Paysages sur le Terrain, ou des Moyens^ and men of distinction in France have
d'embellir la Nature pris des i/a6i7a- I eagerly united with the proprietors of es-
tions. The French style of laying out I tales and practical cultivators to collect
gardens had been settled by Le Notre, | and disseminate intelligence throughout
during the reign of Louis XIV., and | that flourishing empire. In the various

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provinces where horticultural societies
have not been founded, those of agri-
culture, or of the sciences and arts,
have established departments expressly
devoted to that interesting pursuit; and

the United States, a like spirit has
been more recently developed. Horti-
cultural societies have been instituted
in New York, Philadelphia, Boston,
Albany, Geneva, and South Carolina,

during the year 1S27, a practical and [ and a zealous disposition evinced to
theoretical institution was founded at J compete with the nations of the eastern
Fromont, by the enlightened and mu- i continent. The environs of many of
nificient Chevalier Soulange Bodin, for j the cities are in a high state of cultiva-
educating gardeners, and introducing ; tion, and the markets are beginning to
improvements in every department of | be well stocked with numerous varie-
horticulture. The garden contains about ' ties of fruits and vegetables. It is now
130 acres, and is divided into compart- ; the duty of American cultivators to re-
ments for every variety of culture. | ciprocate the benefits which they have
Extensive green - houses, stoves and so long received from their transatlantic
orangeries have been erected, and all | brethren, and to develope the resources
the other appendages furnished, which ] of a country, which offers such an ex-
are requisite for rendering the establish- , tensive range of research to the natu-
ment effectual for instruction and ex-i ralist. Many of the most useful and
periment. The nursery of the Luxem- | magnificent acquisitions of the groves,
bourg long supplied a great part ofl fields, gardens and conservatories of
Europe with fruit trees. The Jardin i Europe are natives of the western he-
des Plantes, in Paris, includes compart- 1 misphere. The indigenous forest trees,

ments, which may be considered as
schools for horticulture, planting, agri-
culture, medical botany and general
economy, and is unquestionably the
most scientific and best managed estab-
lishment in Europe. The flower garden

ornamental shrubs, flowers, fruits, and
edible vegetables of North America,
are remarkable for their variety, size,
splendour or value. Extending from the
pole to the tropics, and from the At-
lantic to the Pacific, North America

of Malmaison, the botanical garden of J embraces every clime, and every vari-
Trianon, and numerous nursery, herb, ety of soil, teeming with innumerable
medicinal, experimental and botanical specimens of the vegetable kingdom,
gardens, in various parts of the king- j With such advantages, most of which
dom, are pre-eminent for the variety, , are included within the United States,
number and excellence of their pro- it is to be expected that the citizens
ducts. Holland has been distinguished, ! will be as distinguished for their ad-
since the period of the crusades, for her j vancement in rural economy as in civil
flower gardens, culinary vegetables, j and religious freedom. The natural
and plantations of fruit trees. The , divisions of horticulture are the esculent
north of Europe and the United States , or kitchen garden, seminary, nursery,
are still dependent upon her florists for I fruit trees, and vines, flower garden,
the most splendid varieties of bulbous- ! green-houses, arboretum of ornamental
rooted plants ; and her celebrated nur- trees and shrubs, the botanical and

series, which have long replenished
those of Europe, have been recently
fortunate in the acquisition of Van
Mons and Duquesne. Some of the
finest fruits of our gardens were pro-
duced by these indefatigable experi-

medical garden, and landscape or pic-
turesque gardening. Each of these
departments requires to be separately
studied before it can be managed so as
to combine utility and comfort with
ornament and recreation. To accom-

mentalists, and, with the excellent va- plish this on a large scale, artists,
rieties created by Knight, promise to scientific professors, and intelligent and
replace those which have either become ; experienced practical superintendents,
extinct, or are so deteriorated in qua- j are employed in Europe, but they have
lity, as to discourage their cultivation.; not as yet been much required in the
From St. Petersburg to the shores of ^ United States. The owners of the soil
the Mediterranean, horticulture has ' have generally designed and executed
made a rapid progress, and each nation j such improvements as have been made
is emulous to perfect its culture, in ac- j in the conveniences and embellishments
cor'dance with the most improved prin- j of country residences. The kitchen
ciples of science, art and taste. In garden is an indispensable appendage

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to every rural establishment. In its mentable negligence of this delightful
simplest form, it is the nucleus of all culture. In England, the eye is con-
others. Containing small compartments tinually struck with cottages embowered
for the culture of esculent vegetables, amidst fruit trees, shrubs and flowers,
fruits and ornamental plants, these may while a neat compartment of esculent
be gradually e.xtended, until the whole vegetables supplies much of the food
estate assumes the imposing aspect of for the support of the inmates. In
picturesque or landscape scenery. The Germany, Holland, and a portion of
details of the several grand divisions Italy, it is the general attention which
of horticulture are to be learned from all ranks bestow upon the grounds sur-
the numerous authors who have devoted rounding their habitations, that gives
their especial attention to each, and such a pleasing aspect to those coun-
ihose which have been named, with tries. But little attention has been paid
many others, should be consulted by in the United States to the planting of
every gentleman who wishes to parti- 1 forest trees, ornamental shrubs and
cipate in the comforts and luxuries of a flowers, although the native varieties
garden. The most valuable and in- j are numerous, highly valued in other
teresting branches of gardening to the countries, and constitute the most in-
citizens of the United States, generally, ' teresting exhibitions in those celebrated

are of course those which include the
culture of esculent vegetables, fruits
and ornamental plants. These may be
enjoyed, in various degrees, by all the
proprietors of the soil. It is only ne-
cessary that information should be dis-
seminated, and examples presented by
the more intelligent and opulent, to

establishments, which are enriched by
collections from all quarters of the
globe. Arboriculture claims attention,
not merely for the purposes of rural
embellishment, but to replace the valu-
able timber trees, which are fast disap-
pearing throughout the Atlantic states.
The forest trees of North America ex-

remove the too common prejudice, that ceed 140, while in Europe there are

gardens are costly and useless append'
ages, re<iuiring great expenditure and
labour, without any adequate protit or
satisfaction. So far from this, there is
not a farmer, not an owner of an acre
of land, who will not be enriched or
gratified by devoting a portion of his
industry to the tillage of a garden :
they may find many hours which can
be thus profitably and pleasantly em-

only 37. There are 53 species of the
oak, 17 of the pine, 15 of the walnut,
and 8 of the maple. Of those magnifi-
cent trees which compose the genus of
the magnolia, but 15 are known, 9 of
which belong to the United States. In
all ages and countries, flowers have
been universally cherished. " Who,"
asks Boursault, " does not love flow-
ers? They embellish our gardens;

ployed. Personal attention, with judi- j they give a more brilliant lustre to our
cious arrangements, and a proper divi- festivals ; they are the interpreters of
sion of labour, will accomplish much. ourafTections ; they are the testimonials
Many of the most valuable products of of our gratitude; we present them to
agriculture were first introduced, and | those to whom we are under obliga-
their qualities tested, in the garden. | tions ; they are often necessary to the
" If, therefore," says the learned and
eloquent Poiteau, " we would ascend
to the origin of Agriculture, it is in the
garden that her cradle will be found.
There, like the young Hercules, she
first tried her powers, and prepared,
like him, to overrun the world, which
she speedily cleared of monsters, and
bestowed upon man the laws of civil-
ization." Although commendable ef-
forts have been made, in several parts
of the country, to introduce and mul-
tiply all kinds of esculent vegetables.

pomp of our religious ceremonies, and
they seem to associate and mingle their
perfumes, with the purity of our pray-
ers, and the homage which we address
to the Almighty. Happy are those who
love and cultivate them." The ancients
paid particular attention to flowers.
They were in great request at the en-
tertainments of the wealthy ; they were
scattered before the triumphal chariots
of conquerors ; they formed the dis-
tinguishing insignia of many divinities ;
they glitter as gems in the diadem of
most of the choice varieties of fruits, j the seasons, and constitute the mys-
and many of the ornamental trees and tical language of poetry. VV'e are told
plants, still there is a general and la- | that Descartes prosecuted, with equal

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ardour, astronomy and the culture of
flowers. The great Conde devoted his
leisure hours to that delightful pursuit,
and the vase of flowers was daily re-
newed upon the table of Lord Bacon,
while composing the volumes of his
sublime philosophy. In the cities of
Europe, ilower-markets, for the sale of
bouquets and ornamental plants, are as
common as those for fruits. In this
new world, these delicate daughters of
the sun have' not received that atten-
tion which indicates the highest state of
civilization : but a tafete for floriculture

of heat, or hot-beds, in the gardener's
forcing department.

A hot-bed is usually made of stable-
dung, of which that made by the best
fed horses is to be preferred. It should
be about ten days from the stalls, and
without too large a proportion of litter.
After being thrown into a heap, of conic
form, for five or six days, it must be so
turned over, that the inner parts are
brought to the outside, the clots well
separated with the fork, the heap being
re-formed conically as before, and left
for an equal number of days. By this

ia increasing throughout the Union, I time and treatment the dung in general
and ornamental plants embellish the ! acquires a sufficient and steady heat;

country seats of the opulent and the
dwellings of honest industry. Botani-
cal gardens have been established in
several of the states, and the large
cities can now boast of their marts and
exhibitions of flowers. One of the
greatest impediments to the progress
of horticulture in the United States has
been the deficiency of nurseries, both
as to number and extent. They are
not only requisite for furnishing the va-
rious kinds of trees and plants which
are demanded for utility and embel-
lishment, but to give publicity to the
most valuable and interesting species,
as well as to excite a taste for their
cultivation. These establishments, how-
ever, have been much increased and
improved within a few years, and there
are several in the vicinity of Boston,
New York, Albany, Philadelphia, and
in the district of Columbia, which are
highly creditable to the proprietors and
to the country." — Encyc. Am.

HOSACKIA. Four species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division and seed. Com-
mon soil.

HOSE-IN-HOSE is a form of double
flowers, when one corolla is inserted
within the other, as is frequently the
case with the primrose.

HOSTA. Three species. Stove ever-
green shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

HOT-BED. When a temperature of
45^, moisture, and atmospheric air oc-
cur to deaden vegetable matters, these
absorb large quantities of oxygen, evol-
ving also an equal volume of carbonic
acid. As in all other instances where
vegetable substances absorb oxygen gas
in large quantities, much heat is evolved
by them when putrefying; and advan-
tage is taken of this by employing
leaves, stable-litter, and tan, as sources

if, however, it is very dry and fresh, it
must be moderately moistened, and left
for five or six days more. At the time
of forming the heap, as well as at every
turning, water should be applied if its
substance appears at all dry, as a regu-
lar state of moisture is of first import-
ance to the obtaining a favourable fer-
mentation. It should remain until the
straw in general assumes a dark brown
colour, when it should be immediately
formed into the bed. Leaves or tan
may be mixed with advantage, as heat
is thereby generated during a greater
length of time. In cold, wet, or bois-
terous weather, the heaps should be
covered to a moderate depth with lit-
ter.

In making the beds, they must be so
situated as to be entirely free from the
overshadowing of trees, buildings, &c.,
and having an aspect rather a point
eastward of the south. A reed fence
surrounding them on all sides is a shel-
ter that prevents anj' reverberation of
the wind, an evil which is caused by
paling or other solid inclosure. This
must be ten feet high to the northward
or back part, of a similar height at the
side, but in front only six. The wicket
or gate must be of sufficient width to
admit a loaded wheelbarrow. An in-
closure of this description, one hundred
feet in length and sixty broad, will be
of a size sufficiently large for the pursuit
of every description of hot-bed forcing.
But for cucumbers, melons, and a few
inferior articles, a space for six or eight
lights is sufficient. Fruit may be forced
slightly by being trained within it on
the southern aspect; the fence on that
side in that case must be of brick or
wood.

To prevent unnecessary labour, this

HOT

305

HOT

inclosure should be formed as near to the bed in all cases must be guided by

the stable as possible. For the recep- j the size of the frame.

tinn of the bed, a trench is often dug ] To prevent the sudden changes of

of its determined length and breadth, j temperature in the external air atfect-

and six inches deep, if the soil is wet, ing the heat of the bed, coat the sides

or eighteen or more if it is dry. In a of the bed with sand ; coal-ashes or

dry soil and climate this cannot be pro- '■ earth might be substituted, to a thick-

ductive of much injury, but otherwise ness of two feet.

it almost always chills the bed: at the As the heat declines, linings, or as

same time it is to be observed, that it they might be more properly called,

is never productive of benefit, further
than not being so high; it is easier of
access, but gives much additional trou-
ble, brfth at the time of founding and
afterwards, when linings are to be ap-
plied

coatings, are made use of, which con-
sist of hot fermenting dung laid from
eighteen to twenty-four inches, in pro-
portion to the coldness of the season,
&c., all round the bed to the whole of
its height, and iffounded in a trench.

The site of the bed being determined, one equally deep must be dug for the
a stake should be driven perpendicu- coating, it being of importance to re-
larly at the four corners as a guide for ' new the heat as much as possible
its rectangular construction. The dung throughout its whole mass ; if, after a
must be thoroughly mixed just before it while, the temperature again declines,
is used, and as carefully separated and the old coating must be t;dven away,
spread regularly with the fork, as the and a similar one of hot dung applied
bed is formed with it. It is beneficially in its place. As the spring advances,
settled down in every part alike by the warmth of the sun will compensate
beating with the fork as the work pro- for the decline of that of the bed ; but
ceeds, rather than by treading; for if , as the nights are generally yet cold,
too much compressed, a high degree of; either a moderate coating, about nine

heat is generated but is soon spent:
contrary phenomenon is often caused
if trod to a still greater excess, namely,
that no heat at all is engendered.

The longest or littery part of the

or ten inches thick, is required, or the
mowings of grass, or even litter, may
be laid round the sides with advantage.
The depth of earth, as well as the
time and manner of applying, vary con-

dung should be laid at the bottom of siderably ; it should never be put on
the bed, and the finer fragments of the until four or five days after the bed is
dung upon the top. If it is not regu- formed: before it is applied, the edges
larly and moderately moist throughout, of the bed should be raised full eight
it should be sprinkled over with water. , inches higher than the middle, as from
As the surface on which the bed is , the additional weight of the frame they
founded is usually horizontal, so is the are sure to sink more and quicker,
dung laid perfectly parallel with it. Mr. thereby often causing the earth to crack
Knight recommends it, on the contrary, and injure the roots of the plants.
to be equally inclined with its founda- The roots of plants being liable to
tion, that it may associate well with the injury from an excessive heat in the
new form, which he recommends for bed, several plans have been devised
frames. See Frame. ' to prevent this etfect. If the plants in

The breadth of a bed must always be pots are plunged in the earth of the

five feet, and in the depth of winter
four and a half feet high when firmly
settled ; to form it of this size, about
twelve barrow loads of dung are re-
quired to a light.

In early spring, a height of three and
a half feet is sulficient, and as the sea-
son advances, it may decline to three
two and a half feet. In May or

bed, they may be raised an inch or two
from the bottom of the holes they are
inserted in by means of a stone. But a
still more etfectual mode is to place
them within other pots, rather larger
than themselves ; a space filled with
air being thus interposed between the
roots and the source of heat, an elfect-
ual security is obtained. To prevent

early summer, when the only object is the same injury occurring when the
to hasten the germination of seeds, two plants are in the earth of the bed, a
feet or eighteen inches is not less than moderate layer of neats'-dung laid be-
the necessary height. The length of tween the earth and the fermenting
20

HOT

306

HOT

mass, is an efficient precaution, and is ' are frosty for the admission of air. A
much preferable to a similarly placed , complete remedy for all these difficul-
layer of turf, which interrupts too much I ties is afforded by a plan, which suc-
the full benefit of the heat. A plan re- 1 ceeds on the principle that warm air
commended by Bradley is well worthy' ascends, and simply consists of a pipe
of notice. A woven hurdle somewhat passed through the body of the bed,
larger than the frame being placed , and one end communicating with the
upon the dung, on this its woodwork i exterior air, the other opening into the
can rest, and the earth is laid within | frame, at one of the top corners of
it, ihus the whole can be moved to- j which an aperture must be made ; the
gether without disturbance. This would ' heated air of the frame will constantly
especially he of advantage when bark I be issuing from this aperture, and its
is employed, which requires occasional place supplied by that which rises
stirring to renew its heat in case of! through the pipe. A pipe of lead may
emergency, when time cannot be al- ' be used, about two or three inches in

lowed for the bed becoming regular in
its heat before the plants are inserted

diameter, bent nearly at a right angle,
and each limb being three feet long,

Besides these precautions, vacancies I one of these to be placed horizontally,
should be left in the mould, and holes I as the bed is forming, with its mouth

bored with a thick pole into the bed,
which must be filled up with hay or
dung when the danger is passed.

For ascertaining the internal temper-
ature of the bed, the thermometer is
the only certain guide, as it also is for
judging of the temperature of the air
within the frame; the mode of intro-
ducing it into the body of the bed, is to
have the thermometer inclosed in a
wooden case of the size and form of an

extending in the open air, that of the
other opening into the frame ; a cap
should be fitted to the first, and by a
slit on its under side, the quantity of
air admitted can be regulated.

Although stable manure is generally
employed for the constructing of hot-
beds, yet there are several other vege-
table matters that are also in use for
the same purpose. Tanner's bark,
from its long continuance and regu-

ordinary dibble, which is to be lined i larity of heat, is much to be preferred,
with baize and fitted with a cap ofj especially for very tender exotics. In
tliinned iron to exclude the exterior | many situations it can be obtained at a
temperature. The end which enters cheaper rate than stable dung ; it should
the earth is shod with perforated cop- be employed when fresh drawn from
per. In conjunction with the ther- \ the vats, or at most when a fortnight or
mometer, trying sticks may be employ- [ three weeks old ; it must lay in a heap
ed for occasional observation; these | for six or eight days to allow the escape
are smooth laths of wood, about two 1 of the superfluous moisture : in summer
feet in length, thrust into different parts this is not of such material consequence.

of the bed, which, being drawn out and
grasped quickly, afford a rough esti-
mate of the heat of the bed.

The small extent of the frame, and
the rapid deterioration of the air within
it by the plants, render its frequent re-
newal necessary. To effect this, the
common practice is to raise the glasses
in proportionate heights according to
the state of the air; and to prevent any
injury arising when necessarily admitted
during inclement weather, mats are
hung over the opening ; but notwith

as an excess of wet is, at that season,
not so liable to prevent fermentation.

If the ground is dry, a pit three feet
deep may be dug, and is better lined
with slates, boards, or brickwork, but
whatever may be the nature of the soil,
it is best to form this case or bin of a
similar height upon the surface. With-
out some support the tan will not form
a solid bed, and if mould becomes
mixed with it, the fermentation is re-
tarded or entirely prevented. The
breadth must not be less than five or

standing these precautions, the supply | six feet, or of a length shorter than ten
of air can seldom be regular; hence, ! or twelve, otherwise the heat will not
and from sudden chills, the plants are i be lasting. When the bark is laid, it
often checked, and sometimes essen- [ must be gently settled with the fork,
tially injured. It may be remarked but never trodden upon ; for if violently
here, that raw foggy days, if anything, I compressed, it loses the power of fer-
are more unfavourable than those that I menting ; if the bark is fresh and not

HOT

307

HOT

ground very small, it attains a sufficient left undisturbed, continue at a temper-
warmth in a fortnight for the insertion atureof 64° for many months, he seems
of the plants, and will continue in heat , to intimate as long as fourteen. This

for two or three months ; the larger the
fragments of the bark are, the longer
time it requires to ferment, but in an
equal proportion it attains a higher
temperature and preserves it much
longer; a middle sized bark is, there- ,

material is, however, to be had in very
few districts. Grass and other green
herbage, and even wetted straw mixed
with coal-ashes, have been used on an
emergency with success. Instead of
forming hot-beds with open sides, as has

fore, in general to be preferred; and been hitherto described, J)^7s of brick-
added to the above consideration, it is work and other materials, are very
to be remarked that, when made of generally constructed for containing

large fragments, violent and sudden
excesses often arise, even after the bed
has been constructed two or three
months : on the contrary, if very small,
the fermentation soon passes oft".

When the crops are removed, and
the heat declines, if well stirred, and a
load or two of fresh bark mixed with it,
the bed will acquire and continue in
heat for an equal further lapse of time :
this may be repeated throughout the
year as often as the heat is found to
decline. But it is necessary every
autumn, entirely or nearly so, to re-
construct the bed with fresh bark; for
when the old is far advanced towards
putrefaction, it will no longer generate
heat.

the fermenting mass. It may be laid
down as a fundamental principle, that
in applying heat, it should always be
brought to the bottom of the body to
be heated.

Mr. Flanagan only allows the heat of
fermenting dung to be employed, the
steam being prevented entering the
frame. One advantage arising from this
he states to be, that fresh made dung
may be employed, and consequently the
loss sustained by any preparation is
prevented. If, however, it be a fact
that the steam of dung is rather bene-
ficial than otherwise, fresh fermenting
dung can be used without any detriment
that I am aware of in other pits of
which we have plans. Mr. F. describes

The leaves of the oak and sweet his pitas follows: — " It is four feet deep
chestnut, and doubtless of many other i within, the lowest ten inches of solid
trees, answer for hot-beds as well or brickwork sunk in the earth; the re-
even better than tanner's bark, since mainder is a flue three inches wide in
they will continue to afford a moderate the clear, carried entirely round the pit,
heat for nearly twelve months without i the inner wall of which, forming the
any addition or stirring. They are to ' "
be collected as they fall in autumn, and
carried to some situation, or be so hur-
dled in, that they may be preserved
from scattering by the winds; the heap
should be si.x or seven feet thick, trod
firmly down, and moderately watered
if dry. In a few days, a very powerfu"

sides of the pit, is four inch work, well
bedded in mortar, and pointed to pre-
vent the steam penetrating ; the outer
wall of the flue is also four inch, but
open work to admit the steam, and that
of dung coatings into the flue, the top
of which is rendered tight by a covering
of tiles, &c. The frame rests on the

heat is produced, and in five or six i external wall of the flue. The cavity
weeks will have become so regular, ■ of the pit, which is kept dry by means
that it may be broken up and the beds of drains, is nine feet two inches long,
constructed with its materials, water j two feet eight inches wide, and four
being again employed if dryness ap- [ feet deep. It is filled with broken
pears, and they must be well trod down bricks to within eighteen inches of the
as before. There are many other sub- top, then a foot of short cold dung, six
stances that generate heat during fer- inches of very rotten dung trod down
mentation; there is perhaps no vegeta- j so as to admit half an inch depth of
ble substance that does not; even a I coal-ashes, for preventing the intrusion
heap of dry sticks acquires a strong of any worms that may be in the dung,
accession of temperature if moistened, j completes the structure."

Mr. Burnet recommends the trial of the i The accompanying sketch and refcr-
refuse matter thrown oft" in dressing ences will fully explain the plan of Mr.
flax, for constructing hot-beds : this re- | West. D D, chamber in which the dung
fuse he says he has observed, when is placed, three and a half feet deep,

308

HOT

surrounded by nine inch brick work

One half of this is filled longitudinally i maurocenia
with dung at the commencement, which

the steam of the dung; I, represents
one of two plugs, which stop holes left
to regulate the heal and steam as may
be necessary. The outer wall supports
the lights. For the convenience of
fixing the dung, it is best to fill the half
of the chamber at the commencement,
before the branches, mould, &c., are
put in.

Hot-water is a much more manage-
able source of heat for a hot-bed than
fermenting vegetable matter, and for
plans see the title Hot-Water.

HOT-HOUSE. See Stove.

HOTTENTOT CHERRY.

HOTTENTOT-FIG.

Cassine
Mesembry-

if kept close shut up, will last twelve or | anthemum edule.
eighteen days, according to the quality I HOTTONIA palustris. Hardy
of the dung. As the heat declines, the ; aquatic. Division. Stillwater,
other side is filled, and the temperature j HOT-WALL is a hollow wall, the
is further sustained by additions to the interior air being so heated by flues or
top of both as the mass settles. When i hot water, as to keep the bricks of which
this united heat becomes insufficient, I its faces are composed so warm as to

the side first filled being cleared, the old
manure must be mixed with some fresh,
and replaced, this being repeated alter- 1
nately to either heap as often as neces-
sary. A A, are the doors, two of which

promote the ripening of the wood and
fruit trained against them.

Mr. Loudon observes, that " the flued
wall or hot wall is generally built of
brick, though where stone is abundant

are on each side lor the admission of and more economical, the back or north
the dung. They are two and a half feet ! side may be of that material. A flued
square, fitted into grooves at the bottom, ! wall maybe termed a hollow wall, in
and fastened by means of a pin and ! which the vacuity is thrown into com-
staple at the top. B B, are small areas i partments to faciliate the circulation of
sunk in front, surrounoed by a curb of' smoke and heat from the base or surface
wood ; G G G, are bars passing longi- i of the ground to within one or two feet
tudinally as a guide and support in pack- of the coping. They are generally
ing the dung; C, represents a bar of arranged with hooks inserted under the
cast-iron, two inches wide and three coping to admit of fastening some de-
quarters of an inch thick, placed on the scription of protecting covers, and
edge of which there is a row, a foot sometimes for temporary glass frames,
asunder across the chamber to support' A length of forty feet, and from ten to
a layer of small wood branches and fifteen feet high, may be heated by one
leaves, H, for the pupose of sustaining fire, the furnace of which, being placed
the soil, K, in the upper chamber ; E E, one or two feet below the surface of the
represents the orifices of which there ground, the first course or flue will com-
ai-e a series all round the pit, communi- mence one foot above it, and be two
eating with the flue F F F, which sur- ' feet six or three feet high, and the
rounds the beds: the exterior wall of second, third, and fourth courses nar-

this flue is built with bricks laid flat, the
inner one of bricks set on edge. The
flue is two inches wide, and for the sake
of strength, bricks are passed occa-
sionallv from side to side as ties. The

rower as they ascend. The thickness
of that side of the flue next the south
or preferable side, should, for the first
course, be four inches, or brick and
bed; and for the other courses it were

top of the flue, and the internal part of desirable to have bricks cast in a smaller
the wall, which rises at the back and mould ; say for the second course, three
front to the level the earth is meant to inches; for the third, two and three
stand, are covered with tiles, over the quarter inches; and for the fourth,
joints of which slips of slate bedded in I two and a half inches in breadth. This
mortar are laid to prevent the escape of | will give an opportunity of leveling the

HOT

309

HOT

*——

wall, and the bricks being all of the to slate, but considers that plates of
same thickness though of diflerent iron, applied in the same way, might
widths, the external appearance will be , answer the purpose nearly as well,
everywhere the same." — Enc. Card. provided that their surfaces were black-
Hot walls are generally overheated i ened, which would cause them to ub-
opposite the first turn of the tlue, and sorb more of the solar rays. Even
not heated enough at a distance from ; frames of glass might answer the pur-
thefire. Mr. Hay lias obviated this, by j pose applied in the same manner, and
having a hollow in the interior of the . perhaps some other materials might do ;
wall, serving as a general heat-chamber | but it is desirable that the frames should
for diffusing and retaining warm air, be light enough to admit of their being
and also smoke-dues for conveying heat removed without dilficulty, in order
throughout. — Hort. Trans.; Gard. Mag. that these partitions may be shifted
The Rev. J. A. H. Grubbe, of Stan- from place to place, (put under cover

ton St. Bernard, Wiltshire, has taken
out a patent for a Transmitting-heai
wall. The intention is to erect this
partition in gardens, as a substitute for
walls, against which fruit trees may be

during winter,) and set up in different
parts of the garden, as convenience
may dictate. — Nicholson's Jown.; Gard.
Mag. See IVall.

HOT-WATER as a source of heat

trained, and through which the warmth for gardening purposes is preferable to

of the sun may, by reason of their thin
iiess, be transmitted, which will greatly
promote the ripening of the fruit, and
improve its flavour. The material pro-
posed to be employed for constructin

any other. It is less expensive, more
manageable, and less troublesome than
any other. See Tank System and
Stove. The following are some of the
best modes of its application to various

these walls or partitions, is slate of the structures
ordinary quality, in slabs, of the kind Fine-Pit. — The best that has been
usually applied to the roofing of houses. ! constructed is thus described by Mr. G.
Iron frames are proposed to be pre- Fleming: —

pared for the reception of the slates, ' In " a pine-pit recently erected at
like the frames of windows, (with holes Trentham, the tank system of bottom-
in both sides for inserting wires to serve heating and that of hot water pipes for
as a trellis,) and the slates being cut to ■ top-heat are combined ; and for keep-
proper shapes and dimensions, may be [ ing a sufficient and steady heat with a
secured in the rebates of the frame by small consumption of fuel, nothing can
j)utty, in the same way as glass. These be more satisfactory. The pit is seven-
frames are to be from six to eight feet ty-scven feet long, and twelve feet

wide, and of a suitable height, and may ''' :--:j- — i :,. t,-..»-,i i v... ;~

be joined together side by side, by re-
bates or flanges, and held fast by screws,
bolts, pins or staples: or in any way

that may be found desirable to secure .m,,. ,..,^v,,«..« ...v^. , „ ,

them firmly. Temporary blocks of is again received by another pipe. The
stone may be placed along the ground i advantage of two deliveries is, that the
to support the partitions, with cross j water not having so far to go does not
pieces to receive standards or slight get so cold before it is returned to the
buttresses to keep the wall or partition boiler, and the heat is more regular in
perpendicular, and against the face of all parts of the house. The depth of
the wall, trellis work of wood or other water in the tanks is about three inches,
fit material may be placed for the sup- 1 The tanks are made of brickwork coat-
port of the branches of the trees. Walls ed with Roman cement. They are

wide inside, and is heated by what is
called a saddle boiler. Under the bed
are four tanks, into which the water is
delivered from the boiler by a four
inch pipe, and after pursuing its course.

or partitions for gardens formed in this
way will transmit the heat of the sun

arched over with brickwork also, which
we find cheaper than covering them

— J - • — •• " 1 —

through them, and hence fruit which with slates, and by leaving interstices
may be growing against these walls between the bricks of which the arch
having a northern aspect, will receive ; is composed the steam is allowed to
the benefit of the sun's warmth trans- i escape, and penetrating the stratum of
raitted through the slates. In the con-, rubble above, to keep the tan in a pro-
struction of these transmitting walls, | per state of moisture. The same boiler
the patentee does not confine himself also supplies a range of four inch pipe,

HOT

310

HOT

which goes round the pit. There are
cavities in the wall to permit the steam
from below to pass to the top of the
pit. The aperture to these can be
closed at pleasure, thus insuring a per-
fect command over the moisture of the
atmosphere. There is a chamber which
formerly contained a flue belonging to
the house that occupied the place of
the one I am now describing. This
chamber has been left with the view of
its being useful for filling with hot dung
either for the purpose of assisting to
maintain the heat of the house, or for
destroying insects. The tanks and

pipes cannot both be worked at the
same time, but they are fitted with
stop-cocks, so that either can be work-
ed at pleasure, and a few hours in the
middle of the day, when the pipes are
not wanted, is found amply sufficient to
keep up the bottom-heat, as the mass
of material when once heated retains
its heat for a considerable time." —
Gard. Chron.

Melon and Cucumber Pit. — For this,
Mr. Glendinning, the scientific nursery-
man, of Turnham Green, has given the
following plans and description.

Fig. 87.

JEleueUion of [he
J,ine A A

Explanation of the Plan. — a, Bur-
bidge and Healy's boiler ; b b, iron
troughs; cc, pipes; d d, iron troughs
as at 6 6 in plan ; e e, pipes as at c c in
plan ; //, copper tubes fastened to the
troughs to admit steam when required ;
g, wire trellis ; h h h, convenient places

Fig. 88.

for the growth of sea kale, rhubarb or
asparagus, or keeping tubers of any kind
during the winter.

" This pit is intended for melons in
summer, and to preserve pelargoniums
or other plants in winter. As the ob-
ject in constructing it is more for the
purpose of experiment than the perma-
nent culture of melons, I have designed
it so that pines may be substituted with-
out any alteration whatever; indeed
any kind of plant which such a structure
is capable of receiving, and at the same
time requiring protection, and in a
warm temperature, may be very advan-
tageously introduced, the hot-water ap-
paratus being so contrived as to com-
mand both bottom and surface-heat,

HOT

311

HOT

either separately or conjointly. For mediate contact, and at the same time

the purpose of supplying soft water for
the plants, I have placed a slate cistern
at one end of the pit, in order to collect
the rain water from the roof. The soil,
if permitted to come in contact with the
iron troughs, would, of necessity, be-
corqe dried and totally unfit for the
roots of any plant: with a view to ob-
viate this, I have placed rough flint or
other stones over the bottom of the bed
and round the troughs to prevent im-

to admit of a more uniform ditl'usion of
heat over the bottom of the pit, so that
the soil which rests upon it may be
more regularly heated. The other ad-
vantage and conveniences of this pit
will be apparent from the above plan
and section without further remark.'' —
Gard. Chron.

Hot-house. — A hot-water system of
heating this structure has been thus de-
tailed by an anonymous writer.

Fig. 89.

Birrticr m the fTinery. P. Bwdfr in Uu Stove.

H

Pavement over Keservnir

^--^^'S

K

"Vine BartUr.

-vfwma/.'mm^/m/'r,A-.y,,',',,vJ»,^:-^y^y,^y,^,^,^^~,

itiw>y/«|iy-<y^//<»^^

"It will be seen that there is a parti-
tion across the house, dividing off about

Fig. 90.

Section of Hot-house.

Fig. 91.

Section of Pit. Sluice

for Pit.
one-third nearest to the boiler as a hot-
house, which can easily be kept at much
higher temperatures when recjuired than
the remaintJer of the range, which ia
intended for a vinery. The circulation
may be confined to that exclusively, or
suffered to extend throughout the range,

HOT

312

HOT

for a longer or shorter period as may be : room for tlie gardener to walk between
desired. Under the paved walii in the I tliem, to hold the plants, wliich it is ex-
hot-house, a reservoir is formed in bricli I pectcd will do very well even in the
and cemented, into which all the rain vinery, as there are front sashes, and
■which falls on the roof of the house is i the vines will be confined to the rafters
collected. A moveable pump is in- in the roof. One table rests on one
serted in one end through a hole cut side on the front wall, and on iron legs
into the stone, for raising the water for on the other ; the other table is spp-
use in the house. The gutters are fit-' ported entirely by iron legs lying close
teen inches wide and five inches deep, ' against the gutters. By this arrange-
and formed in fifteen inch lengths ; ment the gutters are secured against
simple open troughs, as shown in sec- being broken or disturbed by any
tion, excepting at angles, where there , chance accident. The boiler is of cop-
are three pieces, one for each angle, I per, having a pipe at the top through
formed in a different mould, tliere being j which the hot-water rises, with a cross
no joint at the angles, and the two end j pipe having two cocks in it with a brass
pieces which are formed with projecting : union on each side at the bottom to re-
collars to receive the pipes from the [ ceive the return pipes ; so that the cir-
boiler. The gutters are covered with ' culation may be carried on throughout
tiles, one and a quarter inch in thick- the house and the pits at the same time,

ness. It will be seen that the flow and
return gutters are connected at two
points, in order that the circulation may
be confined between either and the
boiler. At these points the gutters are
covered by a wooden frame instead of
a tile, in which is fixed a movable
cover, which exposes the plugs by
means of which the circulation is di-
rected across the house, or extended at
pleasure along the entire range. If it
ii desired to confine the circulation to
the stove, the plugs at 1 are inserted,
and those at 2 withdrawn. On refer-
ence to the section of the house, it will
be seen that the back wall is carried
down considerably under the level of
the ground to admit of a bed of earth
on the inside about four feet deep ; then

or confined to either at pleasure by
means of the two cocks in the upper
pipe.

" The construction of the pits is as
follows: — The floor is formed of bricks
laid flat on a bed of concrete and set in
cement. The tanks are then formed
by carrying tiles made of pottery, one
inch and a quarter thick and five inches
deep, round the outer edge, and on the
top of the brick floor, a double row be-
ing carried along the centre to support
the covering tiles which form a floor,
and return tanks about two feet six
inches wide; these are covered with
tiles the same as the gutters in the
house upon which the earth rests. It
will be seen on reference to the section
of the pits, that the front tank is fin-

comes the reservoir about three feet i ished so as to leave a space of about
deep, three wide, and sixteen in length, three inches between it and the front
covered by pavement. The earth on; wall; slate slabs, two feet six inches
which the gutters are placed has not deep, rest on the tank to keep up the
been moved ; but in order to make it earth, and at every five or six feet,
level and firm, it was covered with a j where the joints in the slabs occur,
thin coat of concrete at every fifteen I there is a single brick carried up be-
inches, where the joints occur, they are ] tween the joints and the front wall to
laid on two bricks, in order that the ; support the slabs against the pressure of
under as well as the upper surface the earth. The object of this and also
should radiate heat: every foot run of round pipes of pottery which rest on
of gutter presents a surface of forty ' the surface of the tanks at a, and pass

inches radiating heat. The potter can
deliver these gutters and covers at
some distance from the pottery, at Is.
6d. per foot run ; whereas an iron pipe
with a four inch bore, which afibrdsbut
twelve inches of radiating surface, I

up tlirough the earth, is to furnish dry
heat and to promote a free circulation
on the surface, which is found advan-
tageous for propagating^ At the points
marked S are similar pipes, which pass
through the tiles covering the tank,

believe is usually sold at Is. per foot at which are formed with an opening for the
the factory. There are two slate tables ' purpose into the tanks ; these are fitted
the whole length of the house, with i at the top with wooden plugs for the

HOT

313

HUM

purpose of steaming the pits when re-
quisite. If it is required that the circu-
lation should be confined to the first or
second pit nearest the boiler, the sluices
3, are closed, and those at 4 are
opened. These sluices are formed by
a metallic frame being substituted for
the tile at those points in which a small
metallic door works on a spindle. This
is attached to a rod passing up through
the earth, having a handle at the top,
just above the earth. In the winter,
when the thermometer stood at 23'^,
there was a bottom-heat of 90^, and of
SO^ on the surface of the pits then in
action, and of 73^ in the stove." — Gaid.
Chron.

Open Gutters. — Mr. Griffin, gardener
to Mrs. Wells, of Cowley, near Exeter,
has published the following remarks
upon this mode of circulating hot-
water.

'' The open trough, or gutter, may
be ap()lied to a boiler of any construc-
tion. The water (lows from the top of
the boiler, through a four-inch pipe,
into troughs made of cast iron, of the
following dimensions; inside measure
six inches wide at the top, three inches
and a half at the bottom, and seven
inches deep; the trough is constructed
in lengths three feet long, neatly fitted
together by a rivet in the bottom, and
one on each side near the top. The
water returns in a cast-iron pipe, three
inches in diameter. There are thin iron
lids or covers, of the same length at
each portion of the trough, to fit upon
the whole length of the apparatus, so
that the degree of humidity may be
regulated by making up some portions
of the covers, without disturbing the
others. The troughs or gutters might
be made of various materials, but I
prefer iron. The heat is diffused from
the surface of the trough or pipes,
nearly as quickly as it would be from
copper or zinc, and retains the heat
much longer. The width and depth of
the troughs should be varied according
to the plants intended to be grown in
the house. An orchidaceous house re-
quires a wider surface on the top than
those intended for the growth of erica;
and green-house plants generally. Dur-
ing the resting season of orchidaceous
plants, the atmosphere of the house is
easily kept less humid, by not removing
the whole or any part of the lids.

" For vineries and peach-houses, it

would answer exceedingly well, and
entirely eradicate the red spider; for
the trough can be covered when the
trees arc in (lower, and when the fruit
is approaching towards maturity. On
the other hand, during the growing
season you may maintain a regularly
humid atmosphere with less trouble
than by any other means. In a pine-
stove, forty feet Ions;, with a walk be-
tween the back wall and bark bed, the
trough being two feet from the level of
the walk, Mr. Gritiin says, ' I can com-
mand any degree of heat with much less
attention than is required for some
houses with a boiler of the same de-
scription, and equal power as regards
pipe.' " — Gnrd. Chron.

HOUND'S-TONGUE. Cynoglossum.

HOUSELEEK. Sempervivum.

HOUSTONIA. Five species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Peat.

HOVEA. Sixteen species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

IIOV'ENIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings.
Loam and peat.

HOYA. Eight species. Stove ever-
green twiners. Cuttings. Light loam
and peat.

HUDSONIA. Three species. Half-
hardy evergreen shrubs, llipe cuttings
and layers. Shaded peat soil.

HUERNI.\. Eleven species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings, dried for
a few days. Sandy loam and lime rubbish.

HUGONIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Ripe Cuttings.
Loam, peat, and sand.

HUMBLE-PLANT. Mi/nosa pndica.

HUMtF.A clegans. Green-house bien-
nial. Seed. Common soil.

HUMUS. When the putrefactive
process of plants is completed, there
remains a soft black mass, known as
vegetable mould, or humus. One hun-
dred parts of the humus of wheat
straw have of extractive or apotheme,
rather more than twenty-six parts, and
the residue is lime, peroxide of iron,
phosphate of lime, and carbonaceous
matter. This apotheme is identical
with the humic acid of Liebig, the ulmic
acid of Braconnot, and the geic acid of
Berzelius. It contains —

Carbon 46.C

Hydrogen 20.0

Oxygen 33.4

It was once believed, indeed is still

HUN

314

H YA

believed by a few men of science, that j " The bells should occupy about one
this apotheme is the immediate fertil- half the length of the stem, with the
izing component of organic manures, uppermost bell erect,
being soluble under some circum- | " The flowers, whether whole-colour-
stances, and entering at once into the ed orstriped, should be clearand bright ;
roots of plants, dissolved in the mois-
ture of the soil. But every relative
research of more modern chemistry is
against this conclusion, and it is now
tolerably certain, that a chief nutritive _ ,

portion of vegetable manures are their i of offsets, cuts are made in the under
carbon converted into carbonic acid, part of the bulb, which, by proper

those having a contrast of colour in the
centre are most esteemed." — Card.
Chron.

Offsets. — " The hyacinth is increased
by offsets; but to multiply the number

absorbed either in solution with the
earth's moisture, or in gaseous form by
the roots. Apotheme is only one of
the products formed during the progress
of putrefaction, and is in its turn a
source of carbonic acid. Carbonic acid
has been long since shown to be bene-

management and a little care, will be
found filled with offsets next year." —
Card. Chron.

Soil. — Mr. Mooy, of Haarlem, from
whose communication to the Garden-
er''s Chronicle this treatise on the cul-
ture of the hyacinth is principally taken,

ficial if applTed to a plant's roots. It | says —" They require a fresh, well

abounds in the sap of all vegetables
though this be drawn from their very

drained sandy soil, free from lumps or
stones, and not mixed with any vege-

lowest parts, whereas apotheme is in- | table matter." — Gard. Chron.
jurious to them if they are grown in a i Mr. Home, an equally good authori-
solution of it, and minutest analyzers , ty, adds, that " the hyacinth must never
have failed to detect it even within the be planted again in the same soil ; but
extreme vessels of roots. — Prin. 0/ 1 the ground should be allowed to rest

Gard.

HUNGARIAN LOTUS. Nymphcza
thermalis.

HUNNEMANNIA fumariafoUa.
Half hardy herbaceous. Division. Com-
mon soil.

HURDLES of iron are the most eli-
gible modes of fencing, whether for
permanency or temporary purposes.
They are invisible at a short distance,
elegant and durable.

HUTCH INSIA. Seven species.
Hardy herbaceous alpines. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

HYACINTHUS. Hyacinth. Five
species and as many varieties. Hardy
bulbs. Offsets. Sandy loam. The spe-
cies most commonly known is H. orien-
talis, the varieties of which are so
conspicuous in our borders and water
vases.

Characteristics of Excellence. — "A
well grown hyacinth should be of a
compact pyramidal form, with a strong,
tall, and upright stem, supporting nu-
merous large bells, each attached by a

for at least two or three years, or
should be cultivated with greens during
that time ; it should also be well mixed
again, before planting, with some old
cow-dung, especially if the soil is light
or sandy, as hyacinths are very fond of
that manure." — Gard. Chron.

Moisture. — This being the most de-
structive agent against which the ama-
teur has to guard, great care should be
taken to protect hyacinths from it, by
selecting the most elevated spot in his
garden. If this is surrounded by a
shallow trench, a little distance oft, it
will be useful, and the bed should also
be raised seven or eight inches above
the ground level.

Planting and Culture. — " The roots

are planted in October, the soil being

prepared by having pure cow-dung

mixed with it one year previously to

j the time of planting. We use a bar-

rowful of dung per ten yards square.

i The ground being measured into beds,

! the soil is taken out of the first to the

depth of five inches, and the bulbs are

planted firmly on it, so that the under

strong foot-stalk in a horizontal position ' part is well surrounded with the mould.

to the stem

"The bells should be perfectly dou-
ble, composed of broad, thick, waxy
petals, with the centre of the flower
raised, rendering the form convex.

after which they are covered over with
the earth taken out of the next bed to
the same depth, which is then ready to
be planted, and this is pursued until the
whole of the beds arc completed.

H Y A

315

" As soon as severe weather com- entering
mences, all the beds are covered over Chron.
about eight inches deep with reeds, so
as to prevent the frost penetrating them

and

HYA

purifying it." — Card.

Growing in Pots. — The latest and
best directions we have on this point

As soon as the frost is gone, the reeds are the following : — "Give them enough
are taken off, and the beds are coated space to grow in, without starving their
with a mixture of cow-dung and water, roots. The easiest way to do this is to

" .-•-- -■ -- ■■ a ; — -"-J .">-v-. ^.^^ J .,„ ^« ....... ..> ..v,

to prevent the light sandy soil being have pots made of a deeper shape than
blown away by the wind. | those in common use.

" The flowers having opened, and
being in perfection, are all cut off, to
give greater strength to the bulbs

" By this simple arrangement the
roots have sufficient nourishment, while
the pots take up no more space on the
stand than at present. An inch or two
of very rotten cow-dung may be put at
the bottom of the pots to promote the
richness of colours and perfume of the
flowers. Three or four bulbs may be
planted in the same pot ; but the latter
should be sufficiently large, and of the
requisite depth ; twice the diameter of
the top is a good proportion.

Fig 92.

Taking up and Stoi'ing. — " In July,
the bulbs are taken up, and the leaves
being pulled off, they are laid down
regularly, each bulb on the side, so as
to prevent the roots growing again ;
after this they are covered over with
dry soil, one inch above the bulbs, and
remain in this state for about a fort-
night, to separate the roots and loose
skins easily from the bulbs. Great
care must be taken during this time
that no injury be done to the bulbs by
the sun ; attention should therefore be
paid to keep them well covered over.
When taken from this situation, the
bulbs are exposed for a few hours to
the sun, and kept continually moving
with a large brush, to prevent their
being scorched ; by which means they
get that glossy appearance always ob-
served in imported bulbs." — Gard.
Chron.

•' After this management the bulbs
require a few weeks' drying in the '

warehouse ; for which purpose they \ " Lastly, after the bloom is over, put
are laid out on platforms, raised a foot those which are fine varieties, and worth

and a half above each other, which
enables us to look them over occasion-
ally, though this is done principally
that they may have a good circulation
of air between them. The windows

preserving, in some warm and light
place; the top shelf of a hot-house,
green-house, or vinery, close to the
glass, is the most preferable. There
they will require no more care nor

are opened every day on both sides of watering ; and after the leaves wither,
the warehouse — for the more air and they may be sorted, and lie by until

wind we arc able to give, the better —
that they may be dried and be ready to
be packed." — Gard. Chron.

Frost. — "Frost," says Mr. Home,
" is detrimental only when it comes in
contact with the bulbs ; tlierefore they
should be protected in proportion to its

the planting season returns.

" If these points are attended to hya-
cinths will sufler but little from forcing,
and will flower again the next year." —
Gard. Chron.

Another equally good authority says
— " Grow three bulbs in each pot — up-

-,_ ,,. ... , — ,,„...„.. ..„ ..„ ^ _ - - ^ ,

intensity. Those who have bulbs of right pots, at least six inches clear in-
great value may lay thin planks of side. After planting, put them in a
wood over the surface when the frost is frame properly drained at the bottom,
very intense ; but care must be taken not and slightly protected at the sides, and
to cover them too deep, especially with plunge them in rotten tan, covering the
the leaves of trees, because these co- j tan over them at least four inches. In
verings retain the vapour which arises very hard weather, a mat to be thrown
from the soil, and hinder the air from | over them, otherwise no covering at

H Y A

316

H YB

all ; in this state they remain until the | or leaf mould, as a rustiness or canker
flower-stem heaves up the tan. Every i is produced on the young leaves and
pot, as this occurs, to be taken to the i flowers if they come in contact with
green-house, and put at the back of the i coal-ashes. In eight or ten weeks they
stage, and shaded by a mat until the > will generally be found in a fit state to
stem and leaves become greenish, when 1 be removed to the green-house or cold
gradually brought to more light and air.! pit; from thence the most forward are
In this state examine each spike of i taken to a house in which the tempera-
flowers, and cut out any decaying bios- ture is kept from 60° to 65°, and placed
som. I about eighteen inches from the glass.

"Water freely, and give as much air I If any show indication of expanding
as possible during the day ; never omit ! their flowers before the stem is of suffi-
to turn the pot daily, so as to insure '• cient length above the bulb, a piece of
that regular pyramidal shape which is brown paper of the desired length of
so essential to the beauty and symmetry ; the stem, is wrapped around the pot,
of the spikes of flowers when in bios- 1 and then placed in a cucumber frame,
som." — Card. Chron. i with the ten)perature from 70° to 75°.

In Water-Glasses. — In the last week l In the latter end of December, or early
of August, or the first week of Septem- in January, they rise six or eight inches
her, hyacinths, after being kept for a i in about ten days; if later in the season,
few days in slightly damped sand, i they advance quicker. When, fully
should be placed in their water-glasses. I expanded, the plants are taken to a
At first the water should only just touch j house where the temperature is 60°,
the base of the bulbs, and the glasses i and finally to the green-house. The
should be kept in a dark closet until j same practice is adopted when hya-
the roots have attained the length of an cinths are grown in glasses, first placing
inch. Two drops of spirit of hartshorn | them in a dark room to encourage the
may be added to the water in each glass, I protrusion of roots, with a change of

when the bulbs are first put in, and
whenever the water is changed. Dark-
coloured glass is always to be preferred,
as the absence of light is natural to all
roots. By keeping the glasses in a dark
closet until the roots are full an inch
long, the hyacinths will not get top-

water once a week, until they are re-
moved into the frame, or forcing-house,
when a fresh supply must be given every
day." — Gard. Chron.

"Hyacinths," says Dr. Lindley, "after
having been forced, are three years be-
fore they recover themselves. After

heavy, but the roots being in advance ! they have done flowering both in pots
of the leaves, will preserve the plant I and glasses, they should be planted out

balanced erect. The bloom will also
be finer, as the roots will be in a state
to nourish the leaves before these are
prematurely advanced. Dr. Lindley
recommends a piece of charcoal to be
put into each glass, to feed the plant,
and prevent putridity in the water. —
Gard. Almanac.
Forcina:. — Mr. Shearer directs that

n the open ground in a bed properly
prepared, taking care not to injure the
leaves but removing the flower stalk.
When the leaves have died away, the
roots may be taken up and laid by in
some dry place till November, when
they should be again planted in a bed
in the open ground; this should be re-
peated the following year ; and the year

"In the beginning of October a few I after that, they may be again forced,
bulbs be placed in pots and glasses ; the I and will produce as good flowers as

single sorts are best for early forcing,
which, if required, could be flowered
at Christmas; others are planted at the
end of October, and another lot about
the middle of November. The pots
used are upright thirty-twos, about
seven inches deep and four inches wide;
the soil half road sand and half leaf
mould, with good drainage, and the
bulb is placed on coal ashes, in any
open part of the garden, and covered to
the depth of eight inches with old tan

they did the first year they were im-
ported."— Gard. Chron.

Diseases. — The hyacinth bulbs are
very liable to ulceration, occasioned
usually by being treated with too much
water.

HYBRIDIZING, or CROSS-BREED-
ING, though not quite identical, have
with the gardener similar objects, viz.,
either improving the beauty of his
flowers, or the flavour and prolificacy
of his fruits and culinary products.

H YB

317

H YB

Hvbridizing, strictly speaking', is ob-
taining a protreny between two different
species ; and cross-breeding is obtain-
ing a progeny between varieties of the
same species. The progeny of hybrids
cannot produce seed ; but cross-breeds
are fertile. My own observations, and
those of others, justify the following
statements, as affording some guide to
the raiser of varieties: —

1. The seed-vessel is not altered in
appearance by impregnation from an-
other plant ; therefore, no hasty con-
clusion of failure is justified by that
want of change.

2. The colour of the future seed, not
of that first hybridized, seems to be
most influenced by the male plant, if
its seeds and flowers are darker than
those of the female. Mr. Knight found,
that when the pollen of a coloured-
blossomed pea was introduced into a
white one, the whole of the future seeds
were coloured. But when the pollen of
a white blossom was introduced to the
stigma of a coloured blossom, the whole
of the future s«eds wore not white. Capt.
Thurtell, from his experiments on the
pelargonium, also informs mc, that he
has always found the colour and spot of
the petals to be more influenced by the
male than by the female parent. In-
deed, all experience proves that the
progeny usually, though not invariably,
most resembles in colour the male
parent.

3. Large stature and robustness are
transmitted to the offspring by either
parent. It does not absolutely matter
for obtaining this characteristic, whether
it be the male or female which is large;
but Mr. Knight generally found the
most robust female parent produced the
tinest ofl'spring.

4. Capt. Thurtell, from lengthened
observation and experiment, has ascer-
tained that the form of the petals
follows most closely that of the female
parent.

5. Mr. Knight says that the largest
seed from the finest fruit that has ripened
earliest and most perfectly, should
always be selected. In stone-fruit if
two kernels are in one stone, these give
birth to inferior plants.

6. The most successful mode of ob-
taining good and very distinct varieties,
is to employ the pollen from a male in a
flower grown on another plant than that

bearing the female parent. To avoid
previous and undesired impregnation,
the anthers in the female parent, if they
are produced in the same flower with
the pistils, must be removed by a sharp-
pointed pair of scissors, and the flower
inclosed in a gauze bag, to exclude in-
sects, until the desired pollen is ripe.
Another ettectual mode of avoiding un-
desired impregnation, is bringing the
female parent into flower a little earlier
than its congeners, and removing the
anthers as above described : the stigma
will remain a long time vigorous if un-
impregnated.

7. Although the fertility of all the
seed in one seed vessel may be secured
by applying pollen only to one style,
even where there are several, yet the
quantity of pollen is by no means a
matter of indiff'erence. Koelreuter
found, that from fifty to sixty globules
of pollen were required to complete the
impregnation of one flower of llybiscua
Syriacus; but in Mirabilis jalapa, and
M. longiflora, two or three globules
were enough ; and in the case of pelar-
goniums, Capt. Thurtell says two or
three globules are certainly sufficient.

8. M. Haquin, a distinguished horti-
culturist at Liege, has impregnated
flowers of the Azalea with pollen kept
six weeks ; and Camellias with pollen
kept sixty-five days. He gathers the
stamens just previously to the anthera
opening, wraps them in writing-paper,
places them in a warm room for a day,
collects the pollen they emit, and pre-
serves it in sheet lead in a cool dry
place. M. Godefroy suggests, that two
concave glasses, like those employed
for vaccine virus, would be better. The
globules of the pollen must not be
crushed. M. llafjuin thinks the pollen
of one year will be efl'ective if preserved
until the year following. Mr. Jackson,
of Cross Lanes Nursery, near Bedale,
says, he has found the pollen of the
Rhododendron Smithii tigrinum retain
its fertilizing power even for twelve
months.

9. It is easy to discern whether im-
pregnation has been eftected, as in such
case the stigmas soon wither. The stig-
mas which have not received the pollen
remain lor a long time green and vigor-
ous. " By the aid of the Stanhope
lens," observes Capt. Thurtell, in a let-
ter now before me, " I fancy I can dis-
cover the seed of the pelargonium being

H YD

318

H YD

closed over in the space of four hours j it with water every evening, after they

after impregnation.

have got fairly into leaf. Towards au-

10. When double flowers are desired, i tumn withhold watering; altogether. Get
if a double flower should chance to have their wood ripe. For winter, stuff" straw
a fertile anther or two, these should be between their branches, wrap them well
employed for fertilization, as their ofi"- in it, and mat them up." — Card. Chron.
spring are almost sure to be very double.! Hydrangeas are best preserved

11. Many analyses of the pollen of through the winter out of doors, by
various plants have been made by che- taking off" their leaves in autumn, and
mists, without throwing any light upon putting over each one of the Shelters
hybridizing. M. Grotthus found the made of straw, as described under that
components of twenty-six grains of the j title

pollen of the tulip were —
Vegetable albumen . . .
Malates of lime and magnesia

Malic acid 1.00

Malate of ammonia, colouring)
matter, nitrate of potash J

HYDRASTIS canadensis. Hardy
20.25 '. tuber. Tubers. Loam and peat, in a
3.50 moist place.

HYDRAULIC RAM. This is a use-

- ful machine, the principle of which is

but partially understood and valued.

1.25

12. Superfcetation has been doubted ; To bring the hydraulic ram into opera-
but as it occurs in the dog, we see no tion, it is necessary that there should be
reason for disbelieving its possibility in ' a head or body of water, as a pond, sup-
plants. Capt. Thurtell thinks it may be plied by a running stream, from which
done by the bee introducing mingled ' a fall can be obtained. The ram is an
pollens at the same instant. Then why i hydraulic machine composed of a body
not if a similar mixture is inserted by 1 at the end of which is a valve called a
the camel's-hair pencil of the culti- i pulse-valve, which is closed by the mo-
vator? ' mentum of a running stream of water.

13. Plants nearly related, that is, j On the top of the body is an air-vessel,
closely similar in the structure of their in the neck of which is another valve
various parts, are those only which will | which admits the water into the air-
immediately impregnate each other ; , vessel upon the closing of the pulse-
but it is impossible, at present, to say : valve. The water meeting with an ob-
■what families of plants may or may not j struction in the closing of the pulse-
be brought into fertile union through [ valve, immediately makes its way
intermediate crosses. A very short j through the valve into the air-vessel,
time ago, the azalea and rhododendron 1 The air in the air-vessel becoming
■were thought incapable of such union ; j compressed, the valve leading into it
but this opinion is now exploded, forecloses, and thus liberates the pulse-
rhododendron ponticum has been fertil- I valve. The same action takes place
ized with the pollen of azalea sinensis, , again with the pulse-valve, and also
and the progeny between that evergreen , with the valve that leads to the air-ves-
and this deciduous shrub, is the pre- ; sel this continuous action takes place;
■viously unknown phenomenon, a yellow , and at each time a portion of water is
rhododendron. Though such unions ' forced into the air-vessel. When the
may be effected, I entirely agree with air in the vessel is compressed so as to
Mr. Knight in anticipating that the pro- ' overcome the resistance in the pipe
geny will be mules, incapable of pro- i leading to the cistern, which it is in
ducing off"spring.

HYDRAiNGEA.

Six species. Hardy

tended to supply, the water flows over,
and continues to do so, as long as the

deciduous shrubs. Ripe Cuttings. Com- j ram remains in action

irion soil. The species most common
in our gardens is H. hortensis. To ob

There is also a small valve in the
neck of the air-vessel, introduced by

tain of this very large flowers on a very Mongolfier's son, to supply the vessel
small stem, strike cuttings ; do not let with fresh air. Persons acquainted with
them branch: grow them in rich soil, hydraulics are aware that a column of

and bloom them the following season.
To get large bushes of hydrangeas

water is equal to its base ; that is to say,
pipe resting on a base four inches

in the open air, plant them in good rich ' square is equal to sixteen times, though
soil; form a basin of clay all round them, I it rested on an inch square. This is
six inches deep, and in dry weather fill , the principle of the ram, as the falling

H YD

319

H YG

column, forcing up the pulse-valve,
shuts it. Practice shows that a ten-feet
fall vi'ill raise a column of water one
hundred and fitly feet high, at the rate
of five quarts per minute, or one part
raised to eleven wasted, where the ram
is only supplied by a two-inch pipe. I
may further add, that theory teaches
that a ten-feet fall will raise water three
hundred feet high — of course, in a very
small quantity. Mr. II. P. M'Birkin-
brine, of Philadelphia, has been very
successful in the construction of this
valuable power.

IIYUROCHAPJS morsmran(r. Hardy
aquatic. Seed and runners. Stillwater.
HYDROLEA. Two species. One
stove evergreen shrub, and the other
stove herbaceous. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

HYDROPELTIS purpurea. Half-
hardy aquatic. Offsets. Still water.

HYGROMETER is an instrument
deserving of employment in the stove,
green house, and conservatory nearly
as much as the thermometer ; for the
correct degree of dampness of the air is
of very great importance in the cultiva-
tion of plants, and scarcely less than
that of the temperature in which they
vegetate.

The perspiration from the leaves of
plants increases with the air's dryness,
and decreases w-ith its moistness. If it
be excessive, not only are their juices
too much reduced, but the very texture
of the leaves is destroyed. If, on the
other hand, tlie perspiration is prevent-
ed, the juices are too watery, and the
secretions and assimilations arc devoid
of consistency, rendering the plants too
succulent and weak.

" It is impossible for any one to know
what degree of moisture he really main-
tains in a forcing-house without an in-
strument by which to measure it : that
instrument is the hygrometer, which
might as well be called the 'water-
gauge,' which is what the first word
really means. Of the many contriv-
ances to effect this end, the best for all
practical purposes, is Daniell's Hygro-
meter, of which the annexed cut (Fig.
93) exhibits the general appearance.
It measures the moisture in the air
quickly and precisely, and is not sub-
ject to get out of order.

" If moisture is brought into contact
with a substance sufficiently cold, a part
of the moisture is condensed, and is so

converted from a state of invisible va-
pour into water.

" Thus, in a cold day, the glass roof
of a green-house may be seen streaming
with water, which runs down and forma
'drip;' and in this often unsuspected
manner air is rendered dry, notwith-
standing the operations of syringing,
steaming, &c. Daniell's Hygrometer is
constructed with reference to this cir-
cumstance. The figure represents two
hollow glass balls containing ether, and
communicating by the glass tube which
rests on the support. The ball which
forms the termination of the longer
leg is of black glass, in order that the
formation of dew on its surface may be
the more perceptible. It includes the
bulb of a delicate thermometer dipping
in the ether, its scale being inclosed in
the tube above the ball ; and whatever
change takes place in the temperature
of the ether is indicated by this thermo-
meter. The other ball is covered with
muslin. In making an observation it is
first necessary to note down the temper-
ature of the air ; next turn the instru-
ment, so that when the muslin-covered
ball is held in the hand, the ether may
escape into the blackened ball ; and it
should also be held till the included
thermometer rises a few degrees above
the temperature of the air, when it
should be replaced on the support.
Then drop, or gently pour, a little ether
on the muslin. The evaporation of this
extremely volatile substance produces
cold ; and attention must be instantly
directed to the black glass ball and in-
cluded thermometer. The latter will
be seen falling rapidly ; and at length
a ring of dew will appear at the line
which runs across the black ball —
quickly, if the air is very moist, slowly,
if the air is dry. If the air is very dry,
no moisture will be thus deposited till
the thermometer falls to, perhaps, 10",
20^, or 303 below the temperature of
the air. But at vv'hatever temperature
the dew forms, that temperature should
be noted as the dew-point; and the dif-
ference between it and the temperature
of the air, at the time, is the degree of
dryness according to the indications of
this hygrometer. Thus, in a moderately
dry day, let it be supposed that the
temperature of the air is 6')^ in the
shade, and that the muslin requires to
be kept moist, before dew is formed,
till the blackened ball containing the

HY G

320

H YG

ether has its temperature reduced to is expected to nppear; because the dew

50°, as indicated by the included ther-
mometer, there are then said to be lo^
of dryness.

" Again, supposing the temperature
is So^ , and the dew-point found, as be-

is most easily seen where the line di-
vides the bright and black reflections on
the bulb; and inasmuch as the change
may not be noticed the very instant that
it occurs, it is well to make a second

fore, to be 70°, the degree of dryness observation of the temperature at which
is still expressed by 15^ ; but the quan- the dew clears off, and then take the

tity of moisture diffused in the air is,
notwithstanding, somewhat greater in
the latter case than in the former.

" If 1000° represent complete satu-
ration, the quantity of moisture, when
the temperature is 65° and the dew-

mean of two. If they are both taken
equally late, the errors will balance
each other ; because in one case the
mercury is falling, and in the other
rising." — Gai'd. Chron.

Mr. J. W. Harris, writing on the same

point 50^, will be 609°; but when the subject, says : —
temperature is S5° and the dew-point I " As I have for the last three months,
70°, the moisture will be represented used an instrument for the purpose of
by 623; these numbers being ascer- regulating the moisture of the air in my

tained by tables prepared for the pur
pose

Fig. 93.

orchidaceous house which has perfectly
The difference, however, in such answered my purpose, I am induced to

offer it to your notice. It consists of an
, old-fashioned instrument commonly sold
I in the opticians' shops as Leslie's Dif-
ferential Thermometer. It is arranged
I so that, when not in use, the fluid stands
I at zero in the stem ; over the bulb of
the opposite stem I place a piece of
muslin, which has been well soaked in
a strong solution of common salt in wa-
ter. The muslin having been cut into
a circular shape, is laid on the bulb
whilst wet; and the moisture will make
it adhere sufficiently. A shelf, or brack-
et, with sides, top, and back, is made
for it to stand in, to seclude it from the
sunshine — which is of course essential
— and also to prevent the damp wall
from having effect upon the muslin, so
that it may draw all its moisture from
the atmosphere alone. It will be found
a case is so small it is not worth taking convenient to have a thermometer hung
into account in a horticultural point of on the same stand, as in all hygrometric
view. But as these numbers can only observations the state of the thermome-
be ascertained by calculation it is more ter must be attended to. The rationale
convenient to reckon by the degree of of its action is simple. If the absorp-
dryness, bearing in mind that the dry- tion of moisture exceeds the evaporation
ness of the air is indicated by the differ- from the muslin, heat will be generated,
ence between the temperature of the which will expand the air in that bulb,
air and of the dew-point. Thus, if the and drive the fluid up the opposite stem,
ring of dew is formed as soon as ether indicating the degree by its rise. On
IS applied, and only 1° difference is the contrary, if the evaporation exceeds
observable, the air is nearly saturated; the absorption, cold will be produced,
if the difference is o^ to 10°, the dry- causing the fluid to fall. The general
ness is very moderate ; while 15° to 20° range of the scales made is from zero
ofdifference indicate excessive dryness, to 40^. I believe, in my stove, under
and beyond this the air is parching." — the general treatment of orchidaceous

Gard. Chron.

plants, temperature ranging from 78"

"The instrument," says Mr. Ross, to 95^, the hygrometer has ranged from
"should be held so as to obtain a por- 15=" to 30^. Of course, if the instru-
tion of bright reflection where the dew | ment were found to require it, it would

H YG

321

ICE

be lengthened in the stem, so as to
range to any degree required ; but I
do not anticipate that a greater range
would be required for the coldest pit
or green-house. As I have found it very
useful in my own stove, I hope it may
be of service to your readers; and as it
is self-acting, so I trust it will be found
on trial, ' simple, economical, and ef-
fectual.'"— Gard. Chron.

HYGROPHILA ringens. Stove
evergreen trailer. Cuttings. Kich light
soil.

HYLESINUS PINIPERDA. A spe-
cies of beetle which preys upon the pith
of young shoots of sickly or recently
felled Scotch and spruce firs. It is not
very injurious in this country.

HYLOTONIA rosce. A saw-fly which
injures rose-trees seriously by punctur-
ing in rows their young shoots, and de-
positing in the holes its eggs. The
best remedy is spreading a cloth be-
neath the trees in the evening, and
killing the insects shaken down upon
it. — Gard. Chron.

HYMEN^A. Locust-tree. Three
species. Stove evergreen trees. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

HYMENANTHERA df-nJafa. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

HYMENOPHYLLUM. Two spe-
cies. Hardy ferns. Seed and division.
Loam and peat.

HYOSCYAMUS. Henbane. Four
species. Two half-hardy evergreen
shrubs ; one hardy annual ; and the
fourth biennial. Cuttings or seed.
Common soil.

HYPECOUM. Three species. Har-
dy annuals. Seed. Common soil.

HYPERICUM. Seventy-three spe-
cies. Hardy, half-hardy, and green-
house. Mr. Paxton says the two latter
thrive in loam and peat, propagated by
young cuttings ; the hardy shrubs and
herbaceous grow from seed or division
in any soil; and the annuals may be
sown in spring in the open ground.

HYPHtENE coriacea. Stove-palm.
Seed. Sandy loam.

HYPOCALYPTUS abcordatus.
Green-house evergreen shrub. Young
cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

HYPOESTES. Five species. Stove
plants of various character ; chiefly
evergreen shrubs. These, and the
herbaceous species, propagate by cut-
tings in a light soil.
21

HYSSOP. Hyssopus officinalis.

Varieties. — There are three varieties,
the white, red, and blue; the lust of
which is most commonly cultivated.

Soil and Situation. — A dry soil is the
one most appropriate for it. If on a
rich or wet one, it is generally destroy-
ed by the frost, as well as rendered less
aromatic.

Time and Mode of Propagation. — It
is propagated by seed, and slips of the
branches, and young shoots, as well as
by offsets. The seed may be sown
from the close of February until the
end of May. Rooted offsets may be
planted in March, April, August and
September; cuttings of the branches in
April and May; and slips of young
shoots in June or July. The seed may
be inserted in drills, six inches apart,
not deeper than half an inch. It is the
usual practice, when the seedlings have
attained the growth of six weeks, to
prick them out twelve inches apart ;
but it is by much the best practice to
raise them where they are to remain.

The slips and off'sets are best planted
at first in a shady or north border:
they are generally firmly rooted in two
months. In September or October they
are all fit for removal to their final sta-
tions. After every removal they must
be watered plentifully and regularly
until established. The only subsequent
cultivation requisite is the keeping them
free of weeds by frequent hoeings.

In spring and autumn likewise all
decayed branches and flower-stalks
must be removed ; those used as
edgings trimmed close, and the earth
gently stirred around them.

I B E R I S . Candy-Tuft. Twenty-
three species. A few hardy evergreen
shrubs ; but chiefly hardy annuals, bien-
nials, and perennials. Seed. Common
light loam.

ICE-HOUSE. Any vacant out-house
which can be thoroughly drained will
be an efficient ice-house. Moisture is
a much more rapid solvent of ice than
mere heat. If in an out-house, with
drains leading from its floor, a layer of
faggots three feet deep be placed, and
round the sides of the house a lining of
stubble or straw nearly as thick, and
then the ice be rammed in hard, and
covered over with a similar coat of
stubble, the ice may be preserved there
for twelve months.

•' The accompanying drawing and de-

IC E

322

ICE

scription of an approved ice-house and
dairy united, lias been contributed by
John C. Boyd, Esq., of Danville, Pa.
Mr. B. says, " For various purposes it
is far superior to the best constructed
spring-house; permitting to the largest
eitent all the luxuries of sweet cream

and milk, the preservation of fresh
meat, pies, fruit, &c., for a length of
time. Mine has been in use two years,
and during that period, we have not
had any milk to sour, which cannot be
said by those dependent on spring-
houses."

Fig. 94.

"A represents the ice-house, proper.
B dairy-room. C the steps thereto.
J) window in dairy-room. £ entrance
into the ice-house.

" The whole length, 24 feet: width
]5 feet; pit sunk, 5 feet in ground;
stone wall carried 2h feet above ground ;
making depth of stone work 7i feet.
On stone work, a frame of 8 feet to the
square is placed. Weather-boarded
on the outside in usual manner. Over
milk house, on top of wall is placed,
joist ] 8 inches from centre to centre,
on which a tight floor is laid, which
forms a convenient room for keeping
various things connected with the dairy.

" The partition between the ice-
house and milk-house is formed by
setting up studding from the sill in the
bottom of the ice-house to the square
under the roof, and weather-boarded
with inch boards halved together, well
nailed, so as to prevent any charcoal
dust, or dust of the bark from dropping
down into the milk trough.

" The inside frame is made 12 inches
less all round than the inside of main
building. That is to say, a space of
12 inches, (and it would be better if it

were 15,) must be left between the two
frames — to be filled in with charcoal
or tanner's bark, well dried, and well
rammed when filled.

The inside frame may be very simply
and cheaply made, by taking four pieces
of scantling, say 4 by 6, and halving
them together — and planking, or dou-
ble boarding up or down on the inside
— three of those frames — one oh the
floor — one midway, and the other at
top, are sufficient.

" The floor, which is the most par-
ticular part, should be made by placing
in the bottom good oak sills, with a
descent from the back part of an apart-
ment to milk-house of 15 inches. The
sills well bedded in clay, tan bark or
charcoal. Mine is bedded in common
yellow clay, well pounded in.

" The floor should be well laid, either
of plank, jointed, or boards double, and
small grooves run along to carry ice
water down to the milk trough. This
floor should be the size of the ice room
before inside frame is erected. On that
part of the floor which passes under the
partition between the ice and milk-
houses, small strips of a quarter of an

ICE

323

IMP

inch thick should be laid, and a board
fitted down tight to keep the filiing-in
from stopping up the water as it leaves
the ice. On top of square, joists with
floor on, is laid and covered about 2
feet thick with tan-bark. A ventilator
should be made through the upper floor
and roof about 2 feet square.

" The closet or recess formed on
each side of the small doors, leading
into the ice, may have hooks to hang
meats, or shelves, on which anything
may be set. This closet, or cold room,
is 3 feet 3 inches, by 3 feet 6 inches —
5 feet high, two doors in centre, each
18 inches wide, made of a single board,
and made to fit closely.

The ice may be put in on either side
just under the upper joists; an opening
18 inches by 2 feet is sufficiently large,
with two doors, or shutters — and the
space between, when the ice is in,
should be well stuffed with straw. No
straw to be used in filling ice-liouse —
except on top, when a good supply will
be of service.

" The milk-house should be well
white-washed. The room above milk-
house should be lined on inside of
shedding, and the space between filled
with tan-bark or charcoal. The cover-
ing may be a shed-roof, or any other
form best suited to the convenience of
the location. The door of my ice-house
is within a few steps of my back kitch-
en door. An arbour of grape vines adds
much to the comfort and coolness of
the establishment.

*' In filling the ice-house, much pains
should be taken to pack the ice closely.
The ice is taken out by entering from
the milk-house through the small doors,
and any child who can use a hatchet can
procure ice for the use of the house.

" The ice-water, if the troughs are
made tight, (and they ought to be per-
fectly so,) will keep them full, or nearly
so, and during south winds may over-
flow a little. The milk-room is too
cold to do the work in, therefore there
is no water but the ice water to get
clear of, whicli will disappear without
giving any trouble." — Rural Register.

For an interesting article on this sub-
ject. See Downing's " Horticulturist."

ICE-PLANT. Mesembryanthemum
cryslalUniim.

ICHNOCARPUS frutescens. Stove
evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

ILEX. Holly. Fifteen spccice.
Chiefly hardy evergreen trees ; but 1.
pai-aguensis and 7. salicifoUa require
the shelter of a stove; and /. august if o-
lia, 1. chinensis, and /. perado, that of a
green-house. Cuttings, budding, grafting,
and seed. Deep light loam. ^i:e Holly.

ILLICIUM. Three species. Half-
hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings and
layers. Light loam.

"IMPATIENS. Balsam. Nine spe-
cies. Hardy, half-hardy, and stove an-
nuals. /. naians is a stove aquatic ;
seed, rich loam, in water. 7. scapiflora
is a stove bulb ; offsets ; light rich loam.
Half-hardy annuals sow in a hotbed, and
hardy in borders. {Paxton's Bot. Die.)
See Balsam.

IMPREGNATION. " No seed ever
attains the power of germinating, un-
less the pollen from the stamens in the
same, or some nearly allied flower, has
reached and impregnated its pistils.

" In favourable seasons, when genial
warmth and gentle winds prevail, im-
pregnation is readily effected by the
plant's own provision. The pollen is
never shed from the anther of the sta-
men, until the stigmaof the pistil is fully
developed, and this soon withers after
the contact.

" Their all-provident Creator has in-
variably arranged efficient assistance.
The agents usually called in are insects ;
these, in their search after honey and
wax, visit the inmost recesses of flowers,
and bear from the anthers to the stigma,
and from ilower to flower, the fecun-
dating dust. Here, too, I may remark
upon another instance of that Provi-
dence which makes all things fitting
and appropriate; for those who have
made the bee their study, relate that
though this insect does not confine it-
self to one species of flower, yet it re-
stricts its visits during each ramble to
that kind which it first visits. How
this facilitates impregnation is obvious,
when it is remembered that no flower
can be fecundated but with poUea from
a kindred species.

" This efficient agency of insects sug-
gested, that in hothouses, from whence
they are almost totally excluded, other
artificial means might be adopted with
success to render flowers fertile that
had hitherto failed in producing seed.
Thus the gardener always finds the ad-
vantage of using the camel hair pencil
to apply pollen to the stigmas of his

IN A

324

ING

forced melons, cucumbers, cherries,
and peaches." — Principles of Garden-
ing. See Hybridizing.

INARCHING, or Grafting by ap-
proach, differs from grafting only in
having the scion still attached to its

in length, and in the same manner pare
the stock in the proper place for the
junction of the graft, then make a slit
upward in the branch so as to form a
sort of tongue, and make a slit down-
ward in the stock to admit it; let tlie

parent stem whilst the process of union j parts be then joined, slipping the tongue
with the stock is proceeding. It is the of the graft into the slit of the stock,
most certain mode of multiplying an | making the whole join in an exact man-
individual that roofs or grafts with dif- ner, and tie them closely together with
ficulty, but is attended with the incon- bass, and afterwards cover the whole
\enience that both the stock and the ! with a due quantity of clay, or wax.
parent of the scion must be neighbours. • After this let a stout stake be fixed for
The most ingenious application of in- j the support of each graft, and so fist-
arching is one suggested by Mr. Knight. | ened as to prevent its being disjoined
If a fruit-bearing branch becomes de- , from the stock by the wind,
ruded of its leaves above the fruit it has I The operation being performed in
produced, this either falls or remains , spring, let the grafts remain in that
stunted and deficient in flavour, owing j position about four months, when they
to being thus deprived of a supply of, will be united, and they may then be
the elaborated sap or proper juice. In j separated from the mother-tree; in
such case a branch having leaves of the j doing this be careful to perform it with
same or of a neighbouring tree, was in- 1 a steady hand, so as not to loosen or
arched to the denuded portion of the , break out the graft, sloping it off down-
branch the fruit of which he was anxious i wards close to the stock; and if the head
to taste. It produced that season only ' of the stock was not cut down at the
two peaches, and from the branch bear- ' time of grafting, it must now be done
ing which all the leaves had fallen : but ' close to the graft, and all the old clay
after the inarching the fruit proceeded i arid bandage cleared away and re-
to maturity. — Principles of Gardening, placed with new, to remain a few weeks

To propagate any tree or shrub by I longer,
this method of grafting, if of the hardy | Observe, however, that if the grafts
kind, and growing in the open ground, i are not firmly united with the stock, let
a proper quantity of young plants for i them remain another year till autumn,
stocks must be set round it, and when I before you separate the grafts from the
grown of a proper height, the work of j parent tree. — Abercrombie.
inarching performed ; or if the branches " Instead of approach-grafting in the
of the tree you design to graft from is , usual manner, it is sometimes conve-
too high for the stock, stocks must be j nient to detach shoots of the kinds to
planted in pots, and a slight stage i be propagated from the plants on which
erected around the tree of due height they grew, and inarch them upon the
to reach the branches, and the pots ! single plant, leaving a piece at the bot-
containing the stock placed upon the 1 tom of each shoot sufficiently long to

stage

thrust into a phial, which must be kept

As to the method of performing the constantly supplied with water."

work, it is sometimes performed with
the head of the stock cut off, and some-
times with the head left on till the graft
is united with the stock, though by pre-
viously beheading it the work is much
easier performed, and having no top, its
whole effort will be directed to the
nourishment of the graft. Having the
stocks properly placed, make the most

Card. Mag.

INDIAN BAY. Lnurus indica.

INDIAN BLUE. Nymphcea cyanea.

INDIAN CRESS. Tropaolum. See
Nasturtium.

INDIAN FIG. Opuntia.

INDIAN LOTUS. Nymphcea lotus.

INDIAN SHOT. Canna indica.

INDIGOFERA. Indigo. Forty-four

convenient branches approach the stock, species. Chiefly green-house and stove
and mark in the body of the branches shrubs. Young cuttings. Sandy loam
the parts where they will most easily ] and peat.

join to the stock, and in those parts of

each branch, pare away the bark and j evergreen trees and shrubs

part of the wood two or three inches | Peat and loam.

INGA. Twenty-eight species. Stove
Cuttings.

INO

325

IRR

INOCULATION. See Budding. [flower well the following season, and

INOCULATING GRASS. See Turf. \ therefore should not be replanted more

I P O M ^ A . Sixty-four species. : than once in five or six years. When

Chiefly green-house and stove twiners. ' the bulbs are taken up they should be

1. caudicans ; I. lacunosa ; I. pandu-\ placed in dry sand for about a month,

rata; I. sagittifolia ; I. sibrica ; I. sin- \ and afterwards planted in the manner

uata ; and /. trichocarpa, are hardy.
Cuttings. Rich loam and peat. An-
nuals and biennials bv seed in a gentle
hotbed, as directed for the following : —
" The best time for sowing Ipomaa
quamoclit, and rubra carulea for plant-
ing in the open air, is the end of Feb-
ruary. They will both succeed under

before mentioned. Seeds of Irises
should be sown in drills in Scptomlier,
in light sandy soil ; they will come up
the following spring, but the young
bulbs should remain for two or three
years before they are removed.

" The best way to treat the Persian
Iris, is to place the roots, in October,

similar treatment, viz., to sow them in in pots filled with a mixture of either
a gentle hot-bed, to pot them oft" sepa- 1 sandy loam well drained and leaf mould,
rately, and encourage their growth i or sandy peat and well rotted dung, and
until the end of May, when they may ' set them in some dry pit for the winter,
be planted out in light rich soil in a and give but little water until the spring,
sheltered situation." — Gard. Chron. Or | and when they begin to show their
sow the seed in May or June in a warm ; blooms, plant them in the open bed. If
situation, having previously soaked it i this is carefully done they will he gay

for forty-eight hours in soft water.

during April and the beginning of May,

IPOMOPSIS elegans. " Hardy bien- but they must be protected from the
nial. Seed. Peat and loam, in a cold ' spring frost when in bloom, or they
frame during July ; leave three in a pot, I will not last long in flower. Persian
and place in green-house for winter ; i Irises are tender, and will not survive
water moderately; shift in spring into i the winter in the open border, unless
forty-eights well drained; leave only ! the situation is dry, for they sutler more
two plants in a pot; water very mode- ' from the effects of damp than cold

rately." — Paxlon's Bot. Diet

IRKSINE. Four species. Half-hardy
herbaceous. Seeds, in a gentle hotbed.
Rich loam and peat.

IRIS. Eighty-nine species. Chiefly
hardy bulbs. /. clandestina ; I. crassi-
folia ; and /. deflexa, require the shelter
of a greenhouse. The soil cannot well
be too sandy for them. Seed or divi-
sion of the roots.

Dr. Lindley gives the following di-
rections for cultivating the English and
Spanish species: —

They may also be grown like hyacinths
in glasses filled with water, in the
windows of silting rooms, and are de-
sirable for such a situation, as two or
three plants will scent a room. They
also succeed in pure sand if the roots
are strong.

" The roots must be taken up in the
open beds every season, and either pot-
ted or preserved in sand during the
winter, but if not potted before the
spring they become exhausted, and do
not flower well, whereas if planted in

"About August prepare a bed two ' the open bed in autumn, they are almost

feet deep, the soil of which must be
composed of eciual parts of rich loam,
sandy peat, and either well rotted dung
or leaf mould, all well incorporated to-
gether. The beginning of September,
plant the bulbs about three inches deep,
placing a little fine sand around each,
and afterwards cover and level the sur-
ace; nothing else will be required ex-
cept stirring the surface of the soil in
the spring. The Irises will bloom about
the middle of June, and the seeds will

sure to perish." — Gard. Chron.

IRISH HEATH. MemiesiapolifoUa.

IRON-WORT. Sideritis.

IRRIGATION, as employed by the
farmer, is chiefly beneficial in proportion
to the amount of saline and decompos-
ing matter contained in solution by the
water employed. But this is not the
exclusive cause of benefit, for much of
this arises from the increased and per-
manent supply of moisture to the roots
of the plants. These can only derive

ripen in the beginning of August; when, j food from the soil in a gaseous or liquid
if it is required, the bulbs should be form; and the decomposing matters in
taken up; but it must be observed that | a soil decompose, and constantly are
when they are removed they seldom i converted into gaseous and soluble mat-

ISE

326

JAN

ters,wifh a rapidity proportioned to the
abundance of water supplied to them.
Experience shows tliat there ia in the
kitchen garden scarcely a crop that is
not benefited by a much more abundant
supply of water than can be obtained
usually ; and I can bear testimony to the
correctness of Mr. Knight's conclusion,
not limiting, however, my approval of
such abundant watering to late crops
of peas, but to all, as well as beans,
spinach, and the entire cabbage tribe.
Kidney beans and potatoes are not bene-
fited by such an abundance of water.

" The quantity of water," says Mr.
Knight, " which may be given with
advantage to plants of almost every
kind, during warm and bright weather,
is, I believe, very much greater than
any gardener who has not seen the
result will be inclined to suppose pos-
sible; and it is greater than I myself
could have believed upon any other
evidence than that of actual experience.

"My garden, in common with many
others, is supplied with water by springs,
which rise in a more elevated situation ;
and this circumstance afforded me the
means of making a small pond, from
which I can cause the water to flow out
over every part of every other kind
through every part of the summer ; and
I cause a stream to flow down the rows
of celery, and along the rows of brocoli
and other plants, which are planted out
in summer, with very great advantage.
But the most extensive and beneficial
use which I make of the power to irri-
gate my garden by the means above
mentioned, is in supplying my late crops
of peas abundantly with water, by which
the ill effects of mildew are almost
wholly prevented, and my table is most
abundantly supplied with very excellent
peas through the month of October."

ISERTIA coccinea. Stove evergreen
shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

ISMENE. Five species. Stove bulbs.
Offsets. Turfy loam and peat.

ISOPLEXIS. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Seed and cut-
tings. Light rich loam.

iSOPOGON. Fifteen species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings.
Turfy sandy loam.

ISOPYRUM. Two species. Hardy.
One annual, the other lierbaceous. Seed.
Light loam.

IVY. Hedera.

IXIA. Twenty-four species. Green-

house bulbs ; bat most of them, in light
soil and south border, protected slightly
in winter, will grow in the open air.
Those grown in pots should be kept in
a dry place until the beginning of No-
vember. The soil best adapted for
them is a sandy peat mixed with a little
loam. After repotting in that month,
they may be kept in a cool airy situa-
tion, and as soon as they begin to grow,
they may be watered freely, and placed
in the green-house. — Gard. Chron., HfC.

IXODIA achilleoides. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and
sand.

IXORA. Fourteen species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

JABOROSA. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous. Cuttings. Light rich
loam.

JACARANDA. Seven species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy peat
and loam.

JACKSONIA. Four species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

JACOBiEA LILY. Amaryllis for-
mosissima.

JACQUINIA. Six species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sand and
peat.

JALAP. Mirdbilis jalapa.

JAMAICA EBONY." Brya ehenus.

JAMAICA REDWOOD. Gordonia
hamatoxylon.

JAMAICA ROSE. Meriania.

JAMBOSA. Seven species. Stove
evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam
and peat.

JANUARY is a month requiring little
more from the gardener in the out-door
department than attention to neatness,
but it usually requires more than ordi-
nary care to his hot-house and forcing
department. The following directions
contain the principal routine work of the
month : —

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Artichokes, attend to, shelter, &c. —
Asparagus, plant in hot-bed ; attend to
the forcing; temp, about 66°, and at
night 50°. — Beans, plant in hot-beds. —
Brocoli, protect from frost. — Cardoons,
attend to, shelter, &c. — Cavlijioivers, in
frames, and those pricked out, attend
to. — Composts, prepare and turn over. —
Cucumbers , sow and prick out; temp, by
day 80°, and at night 65°.— Dung, for

JAN

327

JAN

hot-beds, prepare ; wheel on to vacant
ground. — Earth, for hot-beds, prepare.
— Frost, protect plants from. — Ground,
trench vacant. — Hot-beds, make and at-

Annuah, sow in pots and put in hot-
liouse, &c., b. — Auriculas, protect from
cold,&c.; give earth and compost to.
— Carnations, protect from cold, &c.-

tend to. — Kale (Sea), begin forcing, b. i Cuttings of hardy deciduous shrubs

Kidney Beans, sow in hot-bed, e. — Let-
tuces in frames, attend ; transplant to
force. — Af(?/o;is,sow,for fruiting in May;
day temp. 75'^, night 60°. — Mint, force,
in hot-bed. — Mushroom Beds, make, and
attend to those producing ; procure
horse droppings for. — Mustard and
Cress, sow in hot-bed. — Onions, ex-
amine stored. — Parsley, protect from
frost. — Peas, plant in hot-bed ; and pre-

lay be prepared, e. — Edgings, make.
Slate painted green, and Gentiiiella
planted within, is handsome and dura-
ble.— Gravel, roll in dry weather. —
Hedges, of Privet, &c., plash. — Hya-
cinths, protect from cold, &c. — Layers
of hardy shrubs may still be pegged
down. — Manure, apply generally. —
Mulch, put round roots of lately plant-
ed trees. — Potted Plants, secure well

pare sticks. — Potatoes, plant in slight from frost. — Prune, and regulate flow-
hot-bed. — Radishes, sow in hot-bed. — I ering shrubs. — Ranunculuses, plant, if
Rape {i'oT salading), sow in hot-bed. — [before omitted; protect from cold, &c.
/yiu6a/"6, begin forcing, b.—Ta«si/, plant ! — Rose Trees, scrub with brine, to de-

in hot-bed.— Tar^-a^-on, plant in hot-bed
and do any work which will lessen that
of the following busier months. — Wood-
lice, destroy in the mushroom-house.

ORCHARD.

Apples (Espalier), prune, &c. — Apri-
cots, prune and train in frosty weather.
Brine, apply with a scrubbing brush to
stems and brances of fruit trees, to de-
stroy insects, eggs, and moss. — Cher-
ries (Wall and Espalier), prune and
train. — Currants, prune. — Espaliers,
prune and regulate. — Figs, protect from
frost. — Fork the surface around fruit
trees. — Gooseberries, prune. — Mulch,
put around newly planted trees. — Nec-
tarines, prune and train in frosty wea-
ther.— Peaches (see Nectarine). — Pears
(Espalier), prune, &c. — Plums (Wall
and Espalier), prune. — Pruning, at'
tend to generally. — Raspberries, prune.
— Snails, destroy in their torpid state.
— Stake and support trees newly plant-
ed.— Standards, remove dead and ir-
regular branches from. — Trench and
prepare borders, &c., for planting. —

stroy scab, insects, &c. — Salt, sow over
grass, to drive away worms, &c. — Seed-
lings, in borders, protect with mats. —
Trench vacant ground. — Tulips, protect
from cold, &c. ; plant, if omitted, b.

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit as much as possible. —
Apricots (see Peach.) — Bark Beds, stir,
and renew, if heat declines. — Cherries
(see Peach). — Cucumbers, in pots, in-
troduce ; water frequently, and train.
— Currants, water frequently. — Figs
(see Vines). They should be in pots
in the Vinery. — Flowers in pots (Roses,
Carnations, &c.,) introduce. Gooseber-
ries, water frequently. — Head down spe-
cimen plants, as Justicias, &c. — Kidney
Beans, sow in small spots, not larger
than twenty-fours; water frequently. —
Light, admit as freely as possible. —
Mats, put over glass in very severe
weather, even in the day time. — Necta-
rines and Peaches in blossom keep at
about 5:y' during the day, and at night
about 40o ; water very sparingly ; shake
branches gently to distribute the pollen ;

Vines, prune and train. — Wall Trees stir earth around often. — Pine Apples

generally, prune and regulate. — Walls
It is a very beneficial plan to paint these
by means of a white-washer's brush,
with a liquid mixture of S lbs. lime,
4 lbs. soot, and S lbs. sulphur. It de-

( fruiting), require increased bottom
heat to about S.t^; vvater about once a
week ; temperature in house from 60'-'
to 70^. — Salading, in boxes sow. —
Stove, temp, not above 60"^ in the day,

by its dark colour promoting the warmtl
of the wall. The liquid employed, in

stroys and banishes insects, as well as ! and at night 40^. — Strawberries, in pots,

introduce; when blossoming, water fre-
quently ; day temp, not more than 55°.

which to mix the above, should be urine — Thermometer, watch its dictates. —

Vines, in leaf, keep about GO" ; in blos-
som about 70'^ during day, at night 50"^;
protect stems outside by haybands;

and soapsuds in equal proportions.

rl.OWER GARDE^f.

Anemones, protect from cold, &c. — give liquid manure. — PFosA the leaves

J AS

328

JUL

of all plants, as requisite, either with a I being drawn up about the stems. At
sponge or by watering.— J^nfer, soft | the close of July or early in August, cut
and warm as the house, apply as requi- i the stems off about their middle, to ad-
site; in pots, &c., keep constantly in | mit more freely the air and light, and

the house.

GREEN-HOUSE.

Air, admit at every favourable time,
when the temperature outside is above

in other respects to be beneficial to the
tubers.

They may be taken up as wanted
during September; and in October, or
as soon as the stems have withered,

32°. Earth in the pots and borders, i entirely, for preservation in sand tor

stir frequently. — Fires to exclude frost ! winter's use. They should be raised

and damp should be lighted as required ;
day temp. 50°, night temp. 40°.— fogs,
especially exclude. Leaves, wash,
when foiil ; (decayed), remove as they
appear. — Succulent Plants now scarce-
ly require any water. — Water sparingly,
and in mild weather, and about noon. —
Windows, keep closed both in foggy
and frosty weather; cover with mats
or shutters in rigorous seasons, even
in the day time.

JASIONE. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous. Seed. Division and cut-
tings. Peat.

JASMINUM. Jasmine. Thirty-two
species. Stove, green-house, and har-
dy climbers, twiners, and shrubs. Ripe
cuttings. The stove and green-house
species require sandy loam and peat,
but the hardy species any common soil.

JEFFERSONIA diphylla. Hardy
herbaceous. Seed and division. Com-
mon soil.

JERSEY THISTLE. Centaurea is-
nardi.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. He-
lianthus tuherosus.

Soil and situation. — It flourishes most

in a rich light soil with an open expo- [ See Walnut.

as completely as possible ; for the small-
est piece of tuber will vegetate and ap-
pear in the spring. It is for this reason
that they are often allotted some remote
corner of the garden ; but their culinary
merits certainly demand a more favour-
able treatment.

JERUSALEM SAGE. Fhlomis fruc-
ticosa.

JET D'EAU. See Fountain.

JOHNIA. Two species. Stove ever-
greens ; one a climber, the other shrub-
by. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat.

JOLLIFFIA africana. Stove ever-
green twiner. Cuttings of flowering
shoots. Sandy loam and peat.

JONESIA. Two species. Stove
evergreens; one climbing, the other a
tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

JONQUILLE. See Narcissus.

JOSSINIA orbiculata. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

JOVE'S FRUIT. Laurvs diospyros.

JUDAS TREE. Cercis.

JUGLANS. Walnut tree. Five spe-
cies, besides varieties. Hardy decidu-
ous trees. Seed and grafts. Rich loam.

sure. Trees are particularly inimical
to its growth.

Time and Mode of Planting. As it
never ripens its seed here, though it
blossoms sometimes in October, the

JULUS. Snake millipede.

J. terrestris. — Has about two hundred
legs. Lead colour. Scaly, like wood-
louse. Eats the roots of the pansy.

J. pulchellus. — Ochreous colour, with

only mode of propagation is by plant- j crimson spots down its sides. Legs,
ing the middle-sized bulbs, or cuttings about 170. Attacks roots of beans,
of the large ones, one or two eyes being \ cabbages, peas, and scarlet beans,
preserved in each. These are planted | J. complanatus. Lilac colour. Sixty
towards the end of March, though it j legs.— Card. Chron.
may be performed in February, or even
preferably in October.

They are inserted by the dibble in
rows three feet by two feet apart, and
four inches deep. They make their
appearance above ground about the
middle of May. The only attention
necessary is to keep them free from

weeds, and an occasional hoeing to, , ,,

loosen the surface, a little of the earth sosv, h.— Borage, sow, e.— Borecole,

JULY is a busy month, as will appear
from the following directions: —

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Alexanders, earth up. — Artichokes,

. attend to. — Asparagus-beds, clean ;

leave oft' cutting from. — Beans, plant,

b.; leave some in production for seed. —

Beet {Red), thin, b.; (Green and White),

JUL

329

JUL

plant; prick out. — BrocoZi, prick out ; i frequently ; seedlings transplant; old
plant. — Cahhages, p\ant; prick out seed- ; plants repot, e. — Box edgings, clip, b
lings; earth "up atlvancing. — Carrots, — R./Ww;,i<r nf rnRPs insminos. IL'r
thin,b. ; — Cauliflowers, plant, e. — Ce-
leriac, plant. — Celery, prick out ; plant;
earth up. — Chamomile Flowers, gather.
— Chervil, sow, e. — Coleworts, plant. —
Coriander, sow. — Cress, sow. — Cucum-
bers, plant for pickles. — Earth up where
necessary. — Endive, plant; sow. — Fi-

— Budding of roses, jasmines, &c.,
complete. — Bulbous Roots, ta.kc up (see
June); seeds sow. — Bulbs, autuma
flowering, plant, e. — Carnations, at-
tend to (see June) ; shade and shelter
during hot weather; water freely, and
give liquid manure. — Chrysanthemum
suckers, separate and plant; lay. — Cut-

nochio, earth up. — Garlic, take up as ^(/ig-s of some plants, as scarlet lychnis,

■wanted. — Hoeing, particularly attend will yet strike, b. — Da/)//as require sup-

To.— Horse-radish, attend to.— Kidney port and pruning. — Edgings, clip. —

Beans (dwarfs), sow ; attend to advanc- Evergreens, prune; seedlings, prick

ing crops. — Lavender, gather. — Leeks, out. — Grass, mow and roll often. —

weeds, &c. ; plant, b. — Lettuces, plant;
sow ; Marigold Flowers, gather. — Mar-
joram, gather for drying. — Melons, at-
tend to; — Mint, p\ant, b. — Mushroom-
beds, attend to; make,e.; spawn, collect.
— Parsley, sow. — Parsnips, weed, &c.
— Peas, sow ; hoe advancing. — Pepper-
mint, gather. — Pot-herbs, are fit in ge-
neral for drying and distilling. — Ra-
dishes, sow. — Rampion, is fit for use, e

Gravel, weed and roll. — Heartsease,
plant slips, e. ; water freely. — Hedges,
clip. — Hoe and rake at every opportu-
nity.— Laying carnations, &c., may be
performed, b. ; water freely ; transplant
rooted layers. — Leaves, decayed, re-
move as soon as seen. — Liquid Manure,
give occasionally to flowering shrubs. —
Mignionette, and a few other quick
flowering annuals, may be sown, b., for

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit freely every fine day.—

— Rape (edible rooted), sow. — Salsafy, j autumn. — Piping, of pinks, &c., maybe
thin, &c.— SafOi/s, plant. — Scorzonera, \ st'\\\ practised, b.; pelargonium cut-
thin, &c. — Scurvy Grass, sow.— Seeds, \ tings, plant, b.— Polyanthuses, seed-
gather .as they ripen. — Small Salading, I lings, transplant; roots of old, part —
sow.—Spinach, sow ; hoe and thin. — ' Roses, bud and lay, h.— Seeds, gather as
Stir ground between plants. — Succory, [ they ripen. — Stake and tie up plants
sow. — Ruta Baga, sow, ; hoe advancing ' wherever necessary. — Transplanting
crops. — Turnip Cabbages, prick out. — perennials and biennials, complete, b.
Vacant ground, d\g; cleanse from weeds, — Water freely, not only the roots but
&c. — Water where necessary. — Worm- | over the foliage.
wood, plant.

ORCHARD.

Budding, pe
apples, and pea

ther. — Espaliers, continue to regulate
(see Wall Trees) ; young ones head
down. — Fig Trees, regulate; remove
over luxuriant shoots. — Pruning (sum-
mer), complete. — Raspberries, clear
from needless suckers. — Snails and
slugs, search for morning and evening.
— Stocks, clear from lateral shoots. —
Strawberries, for forcing, lay in pots ;
Vines require constantly regulating; all
late shoots remove ; stop bearing shoots.
— Wall Trees, continue to regulate as
their shoots re()uire ; train in, do not
shorten their shoots. — Walnuts, gather
for pickling. — Wasps, entrap; bottles
of sugared beer are best. — Water newly
planted trees in dry weather; keep
mulch round.

Tform in all stone-fruit, j^^^j/ ^js, &c., frequently, and give
ars ; select cloudy wea- ,.^^^j^ ^^^^^ j^ j^,^^,^ languish.-Fii/n^'^a-
tions of tobacco give frequently, espe-
cially if insects prevail. — Liquid Manure
give to weakly plants. — Orchidaceous
Plants, keep in coolest parts of the
house, and give very little water, or
they will not bloom well next spring. — ■
Pine Apples, plant by crowns or suckers;
gather ripe, early in the morning; shift
succession for next season; give liquid
manure ; do not shift all at once, but at
weekly intervals. — Potting, finish, b. —
Propagate stove plants by cuttings,
layers, and suckers, as suitable. — Steam,
admit to plants. — Vines, when all the
leaves are ofl^, expose day and night;
grapes, ripening late, require a mo-
derate moist heat, and air only of a
morning. — Water frequently and abun-
dantly, but rather less to flowering
plants than last month.

FLOWER GARDEN.

Auriculas, in pots, dress and water

JUL

330

JUN

GREEN-HOUSE.

Air, admit freely to all plants de-
tained in the house. — Bud, oranges,
lemons, &c. — Camellias, syringe and
water frequently ; shade in hot days. —
Cuttings, slips, &c., water. — Dress and
give fresh earth as required. — Heaths,
plant, slips. — Layers may be made. —
Moving out of house (see June). —
Oranges and Lemons require water dai-
ly; thin fruit if thick; remove blossoms
where fruit is thick enough ; give earth ;
air, admit freely. — Peat plants, examine
almost daily to see that they do not dry.
— Propagate by cuttings, slips, &c. —
Seedlings, Y>r\cV. into small pots. — Shade
during hot bright days ; calico frames
are best. — Shifting, complete, b. —
Stove plants (hardier) may be moved
into green-house. — Stake, trim, and
train as required. — Succulent plants,
cultivate by cuttings, slips, and suckers.
— Watering and cleaning are now the
chief occupations ; apply water early in
the morning by the engine.

JULY-FLOWER. Prosopis juliflora.

JUNE is also a busy month.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Alexanders, earth up. — Artichokes,
weed, &c. — Asparagus-beds clean, &c.
— Basil, plant. — Beans, plant, hoe, &c.,
advancing crops. — Beefs, thin, &c. —
Borecole, plant. — Brocoli, plant. — Cab-
bage, i>]a.nt ; earth up, &c. — Capsicum,] dry and store. — Annuals (hardy and
plant, b. — Cardoo«s, thin and plant out. I some tender), plant out to remain, in
— Carrots, thin, kc. — Celeriac, plant. — j showery weather best; some (hardy)
Celery, plant; earth up advancing. — i may be sowed, b. — ^i/r/cw/as, continue
Coleworts, sow for; plant. — Coriander, \ shading; plant offsets; prick out seed-
sow. — Cress, sow. — Cwcwm&eT-s, sow, b. ] lings. — Baskets or clumps, form of

sow ; plant. — Watering and Weeding,
attend to. — Wormwood, plant.

ORCHARD.

Ants, destroy; the ammonia water
from gas-works, or boiling water poured
into their haunts is effectual. — Apricots,
finish summer regulating, b. — Blighted
Trees, clean by the water engine; lime
dust, &c. — Budding, commence in
cloudy weather, or during evening, e. —
Fig Trees, prune. — Gooseberries, Cur-
rants (Wall and Espalier), regulate, b.;
remove blighted shoots; summer prune,
e. — Nectarines, finish summer regulat-
ing.— Newly planted Trees, stake and
fasten; give water in dry weather; li-
quid manure to the weakly ; keep mulch
round. — Pears (Wall and Espalier),
properly regulate, b. — Plums (Wall
and Espalier), properly regulate, b. —
Scarify, trunks of hide-bound trees,
rather than in winter, but this affection
will never occur, if they are scrubbed
in January with brine. — Snails, Slugs,
search for, morning and evening. —
Strawberries, water in dry weather. —
Thinning fruit on walls, complete, b.
— Vines before omitted, finish, regulat-
ing, b. ; and those done in May re-exa-
mine.

FLOWER GARDEN.

Anemones, take up as leaves wither;

plants. — Biennials and
sow, if omitted, b. — Box

— Earthing-up, attendto. — Endive, sow, green -hous
b.; plant. — Fennel, plant. — Finochio, i Perennials,
sow; earth up advancing crops. — G«?'- . edgings clip; plant. — Bulbous Roots
lie is fit for present use. — Herbs, for (Tulips, Jonquils, &c.), take up as
drying and distilling, gather. — Jerusalem ■ leaves decay; remove offsets from;
Artichokes, hoe, &c. — Kidney Beans, dry and store; may transplant some,
(dwarfs), sow ; (runners), attend to. — ; or keep until autumn ; (autumn flower-
I-eefcs, thin, &c.; transplant, e. — Lettuce, ing), as Colchicums, &c., take up as
sow ; plant, &c. — Mint, plant. — Pars- leaves decay, separate offsets, and re-
nips, thin. — Peas, sow; attend to ad- plant, or not, until end of July. — Car-
vancing crops. — Potatoes, hoe, &c. — nations, in bloom, attend ; aid the bud-
Radishes, sow. — Rampion, thin. — Sage, pod to split with a pair of narrow sharp-
plant. — Salsafy, thin. — Savoys, plant ; i pointed scissors; water every second
prick out. — Scorzonera, thin. — Scurvy , day ; tie to supporters, &c. ; prick out
Grass, sow. — Seeds, attend to and gather, i seedlings; make layers ; pipe. — Cycla-
— Small Salading, sow. — Spinach, sow; , mens, transplant. — Dahlias, finish plant-
thin advancing. — Stir Ground between ing out, b. — Dress the borders assidu-
crops, in rows, &c. — Succory, sow. — , ously; neatness now stamps a gardener's
Tarra^ora, plant. — Thinning, attend to. ; character. — Fibrous rooted Perennials,
— Toma^os, plant out. — Turnip Cabbage, propagate by cuttings of flower-stalks;

JUN

331

KEL

shade ami water. — Flowering Plants
generally require training and support.
— Gra,ss, mow, roll and trim edges. —
Gravel, weed, sweep, and roll. — Guern-
sey Lilies, take up; separate otTsets,
and replant. Do this every second year.
— Hedges, clip, e. — Leaves and stems
decaying, remove as they appear. —
Liquid Manure, apply occasionally to
ail choice flowers. — Mignionette, plant
out; sow, b. — Pink seedlings, prick out;
make layers. — Pipings (or Cuttings) of
Carnations and Pinks may be planted. —
Potted Flowers, dress, stir earth and
water regularly. — Ranunculuses, take
up as leaves wither, dry and store. —
Roses, bud, lay, and inarch; fumigate
with tobacco to destroy the Aphis, or
Green Fly. — Salvia Patens, pinch down
centre stem to make it flower bushy. —
Seedlings of Perennials and Biennials,
transplant. — Seeds (ripe), gather in dry
weather — Seed Vessels, remove, to pro-
long flowering. — Water, give freely and
frequently to all newly moved plants,
and to others in dry weather; early
morning best time.

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit freely during every mild
day; but exclude as evening approaches.
— Bark Beds, occaeionaliy will require
stirring; water and ventilate freely. —
Grapes, thin; ripening keep dry. —
Heat, keep up as required. — Pines are
now ripening; plant crowns as they
occur; give liquid manure; syringe;
shade in very hot days. — Propagation,
continue as requisite, by seed, suckers,
slips, layers, cuttings, oflsets, &c. (See
May.) — Steam, admit almost daily. —
Strawberries done forcing, allow to dry;
remove into larger pots with new earth,
and keep for second forcing. — Syringe
Pines, and other plants, frequently. —
Tobacco fumigations, give occasionally.
— Vines, push forward by warmth, li-
quid manure, &c. ; mulch round roots
outside the house; stop laterals. —
Watering attend to duly; it is required
generally oftener and more liberally
than in preceding months; apply it in
the morning early.

GREEN-HOUSE.

Air, give with all possible freedom ;
bring all but the tenderest out of the
house. — Camellias, done flowering, re-
move into higher temperature. — Cut-
tings of various plants may now be in-

serted.— Dress the plants as they are
brought out of the house. — Earth, give
fresh, and liquid manure, as necessary.
— Flowering shrubs, shade. — Gera-
7iiums, plant cuttings. — Head down and
prune irregular growing shrubs.^
Heaths, plant slips; water frequently. —
Inarching of jasmines, oranges, &c.,
may be performed. — Leaves (decayed),
remove, and wash the foliage generally,
— Layers of shrubs generally make. —
Mowings of grass spread over surface of
earth in large pots or tubs — an excel-
lent mode of arresting evaporation.—
Myrtles, propagate by cuttings, e. ; —
Oranges and Lemons in bloom, give
liquid manure : thin blossom when in
clusters. — Rain, if excessive, move ten-
derest plants back into the house; and
tilt the pots of others. — Seedlings, trans-
plant.— Shift into larger pots, as neces-
sary, b. — Succule?it plants propagate by
cuttings ; remove to outside, e. — Water
frequently, butmoderately ; some plants
require it every morning or evening.

JUNIPERUS. .Tuniper. Nineteen
species besides varieties. Hardy ever-
green trees and shrubs. Seed and cut-
tings. Sandy loam. See Coniferce.

JUPITER'S BEARD, Anthyllis bar-
ba-jovis.

JUSTICIA. Sixty-four species.
Stove and green-house plants; some
shrubs, others biennials and annuals,
and a third group trailers. The bien-
nials and annuals require to be sown in
a hot-house or hotbed; the others are
increased by cuttings, and all delight
in light loam and peat.

KAGENECKIA cratagoides. Half-
hardy evergreen tree. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

KALANCHOE. Seven species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

KALP>. See Borecole.

KAL^^X. Five species and more
varieties. Hardy evergreen shrubs.
Seed and layers. Sandy loam and peat.

KALOSANTHES. Eight species.
Green-house evergreen succulents. Cut-
tings dried for forty-eight hours ; sandy
loam and peat.

KANGURU VINE. Cissus antarc-

KAULFUSSIA amelloides. Hardy
annual. Seed. Sandy loam.

KELP is the ash remaining after sea-
weed is burnt, and has been used with
great advantage as a manure to pota-

KEN

332

KID

toes, brocoli, and other species of bras- I cessary to plant successive crops at
sica. It is composed of carbonate of intervals of two or three weeks, which
soda, and iodide and bromide of potas- is much preferable to planting but sel-
sium, carbon, sulphates of lime and ' dom, and then a larger quantity. Plan-

magnesia, and other matters ot triviai
importance. See Green Manure.

K E N N E D Y A . Fifteen species.
Green-house evergreen twiners. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

K E R R I A japonica. Hardy deci-
duous shrub. Young cuttings. Com-
mon soil. More commonly called Cor-
chorus japonicus.

KIDNEY-BEAN. Phaseolus vulga-
ris. Haricot, Fr. Schminkbohne, Ger.
Judias, Span. Faguiolo, Ital.

" Of the Snap-Short Bean, the Hari-
cot of the French, the varieties and
sub-varieties are numerous. Those

tations made so late as 1st August, ge-
nerally succeed and yield abundantly.

" When they have risen three or four
inches, give them a careful hoeing, to
destroy all weeds, and loosen the earth.
At this time, or shortly after, draw to-
wards the base of the plants, some of
the loose soil, to the depth of one or
two inches. This process is termed
" landing," and is highly beneficial in
protecting the roots from excessive
drought, and the direct rays of the
sun. As the crop approaches matu-
rity, nothing more is required than an
occasional hoeing, observing always

enumerated in the Catalogue annexed,; to keep the ground free from weeds

are such as we esteem most worthy ;

In selecting a spot to plant beans,

they consist of the earliest, the latest, I choose where the soil is light and tole-
and those which ripen intermediately. ■ rably dry. If it be poor, apply a good
The Early Mohawk or Brown Six ! dressing of well rotted manure, either
Weeks arrives soonest at perfection, ' spread over the entire surface, or

and is the hardiest of the early ones ;
the Early Yellow, Red Speckled Val-
entine, and China Red Eye, immediate-
ly succeed. The Red French is about
the latest : the other varieties ripen
promiscuously. All the kinds are

placed in the drills when drawn out."
— Rural Register.

Forcing. — The hot-bed must be of
moderate size, and covered with earth
nine inches thick. When the heat has
become regular, the seed may be in-

brought to the Philadelphia market ; serted in drills a foot apart, and the
some purchasers preferring one, and plants allowed to stand six inches asun-
others another. The Red Speckled j der in the rows. Air must be admitted
Valentine is a variety very generally I as freely as to the melon. The same
admired; it is round podded, without j precautions are likewise necessary as to
strings, an abundant bearer, and re- I keeping up the temperature, taking the
mains tender longer than most others, chill off the water &c.,as for that plant.
The Brown Valentine or Refugee, is j When the seed begins to sprout, the
also an excellent variety, as also the | mould should be kept regularly moist-
China Red Eye. The pods of the Red I ened ; and when grown up, water may
French are used as well for pickling as ' be given moderately, three times a week,
boiling, and the beans throughout the | The temperature should never be less
winter in a dry state, as haricots, and I than 60°, nor higher than 75". Some
in soups, for which it is usually pre-; plants of the hot-bed sowing at the end
ferred. ' of March, are often, after being gradu-

" The usual plan of cultivating this ally hardened, planted in a warm bor-
tribe, is in drills double or single, der: this will at most hasten the plants

placing two seeds together at inter-
vals of two or three inches : two to
two and a half feet should be allowed
between the drills. They are much
more tender than the Long Pod or
Windsor, and will not succeed

in production a fortnight before those
sown in the open ground in May.

Those sown under frames in March

for transplanting into a border, when

two or three inches in height, must in a

f like manner be hardened gradually for

planted before the weather has become the exposure, by the plentiful admission
somewhat settled, and the earth warm ; of air, and the total removal of the
in the latitude of Philadelphia, not glasses during fine days. If any are
earlier than April, unless in very dry ! raised in pots in the hot-house, they
ground, and protected situations. To 1 must in a like manner be prepared for
have a constant supply, it will be ne- 1 the removal, by setting them outside in

K ID

333

KID

•

fine days, and there watering them with ' to clasp the pole, which is contrary to

cold water.

If the season is too ungenial after all
to remove them even to a warm border

the course of the sun, and opposite to
the habit of most climbers.

Those who have not the convenience

the plants are ofYen inserted in patches, of a frame, (or hand-glass which will
to have the protection of frames or answer the same purpose,) should have
hand lights at night, or as the weather i the hills prepared and poles inserted,
demands. choosing a mild, dry time, about the

Said to be perennial. — It has been : close of May, for planting the beans,
stated, that kidney beans appear of a If wet weather should '^immediately
perennial nature, 'and that they have succeed, and the seed rot, replant as
been observed to vegetate for several soon as the ground dries. Good crops
years — the plants being in the vicinity 1 have been produced in the vicinity of
of a steam-engine, and so situated that Philadelphia, when planted even so late
the frost could not penetrate to the as first of June.
roots. i After they become well established,

Beans, Pole. — The Scarlet Runners,! and have clasped the poles, no further
and While Dutch Beans, are very deli- i care is requisite, other than keeping the
cately flavoured, and are used either | weeds under, and the hills occasionally
in the pod, or shelled when further stirred.

advanced; but in this section of the; The Carolina or Sewee bean, is of a
country, and perhaps further South, they : smaller size than the Lima; much
bear so sparingly most seasons, as to be I hardier, rather earlier, and more pro-
ecarcely worth cultivating. | ductive, but generally considered less

The Lima is too well known to need j rich. In other respects they closely
description. Two varieties are cuiti- resemble each other — time and mode
vated ; the one broad and thin, the of planting may be a little in advance
other much thicker. We have some- of the Lima — cultivation precisely the
times thought. the latter the more tender ! same. — Rural Reg.

anu delicate when boiled. The Lima i Beavs, English. Vicia Faba, of
Bean is very tender, not bearing the i JAnnceus. Feve de marais, Fr. Bohn,
slighted frost, and is very subject to rot \ Ger. Fava, Hal. Habas, Span.
when planted early, or during a spell ofi Of the above kind, commonly called
rainy or damp cool weather. To guard j in this country " Horse Bean," there is
against which, the best plan is to sprout considerable variety ; two of them have
them in a frame, (as recommended for | been selected by us for cultivation, be-
thc Long Pod or Windsor,) so situated,; lieving them the best adapted for the

that the damp and frost can he excluded
An old hot-bed answers the purpose
effectually. They need not be planted

climate, and quite sufficient of the kind.
They are the Early Long Pod and Broad
Windsor. Both succeed with the same

therein, before the middle of spring, nor j treatment, but the first named, is the
transplanted till towards its close; a < more certain bearer of the two. In
little earlier or later, as the weather i England, where they are extensively
may make expedient ; if planted early, | cultivated, they do much better than in
they will at best remain stationary, and j this country, preferring its damp cool
may, perhaps, do worse. They should atmosphere, to our frequently dry and
be planted in hills in well cultivated ' hot one ; to counteract which, it is de-
ground, dressed either in the piece or sirable to plant so early in the spring,

hills, with thoroughly rotted manure
from the barn-yard. The hills should
be raised three or four inches above the

as the ground will admit of being
worked; in the latitude of Philadelphia,
(39= 57) the latter part of February,

average level, and be three feet apart , or beginning of March, if possible;
each way, with a pole six or eight feet they then come into flower before, the
liigh, well secured in the ground, to weather becomes hot, otherwise the
each hill. Three plants in a hill are! blossoms drop, and set no fruit.
Bufhcient. As the vines shoot up, they i Plant them in drills, either single or
should be tied to the poles, till they get ' double, two inches apart in the drills,
hold, when they will support them- and cover one to two inches deep. If
selves. In trying them, observe to do in double drills, with alleys two and a
it in the direction in which they incline 1 half feet wide. If in single rows, two

KIR

334

KIT

feet alleys answer, unless it be intended [ of a mansion, or the plan of the grounds,
to cultivate them with the horse hoe, as < allows him to construct it in the most
is done by market gardeners. appropriate spot.

Those who are particularly fond of i A gentle declination towards the
this bean, can accelerate the crop, by , south, with a point to the east, is the
setting a frame at the close of winter, \ most favourable aspect ; to the north-
under the lee of a board fence, or other ! east the least so : in short, any point to

protected situation, exposed to the sun,
which cover with glass, and in severe
weather with matting or straw, so as
effectually to exclude the frost. Herein
plant the beans, one seed to the square
inch, and let them remain, until the
arrival of milder weather, when they
should be transplanted to the position
in the garden which it is intended they
shall occupy. In transplanting them,
care should be taken not to injure the
roots, to guard against which, use a
trowel to ease them up, and suffer as
much earth as will, to adhere. During
the time they remain in the frame, the
sash should be raised when the weather
is mild, to admit the air, and gradually
harden them, preparatory to full ex-
posure when transplanted, else the sud-
den change of temperature might prove
fatal. In order to make them set fruit
more certainly, it is the practice to nip
off the top or leading shoots when they
are in full flower; this checks the growth,
and directs the strength of the plant
towards the blossoms. If a part of the
flowers are destroyed in this operation,
there is no loss.

Whilst the crop is growing and pro-
gressing towards maturity, keep the
ground well hoed, and free from weeds.
When the plants have attained six or
eight inches in height, draw towards
their base a portion of loose earth,
which will encourage them to put forth
fresh fibres, and protectthc roots already
formed, from the sun's rays. — Rural
Register.

KIRGANELIA elegans. Stove ever-
green shrub. Ripe cuttings. Loam and
peat.

KITAIBELIA vitifolia. Hardy herb-
aceous. Seed. Common soil.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Situation of the Kitchen Garden. — In
selecting the site, and in erecting the
inclosures, as well as in the after pre-

the south is to be preferred to one verg-
ing towards the north. A high wall
should inclose it to the north and east,
gradually lowering to the south and
west. If, however, a plantation or
building on the east side, at some dis-
tance, shelter it from the piercing
winds, which blow from that quarter,
and yet are at such a distance as not to
intercept the rays of the rising sun, it
is much to be preferred to heightening
the wall. It is a still greater desidera-
tum to have a similar shelter, or that
of a hill on the south-west and north-
west points. The garden is best situated
at a moderate elevation ; the summit of
a hill, or the bottom of a valley, is equal-
ly to be avoided. It is a fact not very
difficult of explanation, that low lying
ones are the most liable to suffer from
blights and severe frosts ; those much
above the level of the sea are obviously
most exposed to inclement winds.

Size of the Kitchen Garden. — To de-
termine the appropriate size of a kitchen
garden is impossible. It ought to be
proportionate to the size of the family,
their partiality for vegetables, and the
fertility of the soil.

It may serve as some criterion to
state, that the management of a kitchen
garden occupying the space of an acre,
aflbrds ample employment for a garden-
er, who will also require an assistant
at the busiest period of the year. In
general, a family of four persons, ex-
clusive of servants, requires a full rood
of open kitchen garden.

Plan of the Kitchen Garden. — In
forming the ground plan of a kitchen
garden, utility is the main object. The
form and aspect represented in the
accompanying sketch are, perhaps, as
unobjectionable as any, since none of
the walls face the north, and conse-
quently the best aspects are obtained
for the trees. A narrow path two feet

paration of the soil, the ingenuity and j wide should extend round, adjoining
science of the horticulturist are essen- j the wall, and then a border about ten

tially requisite. He will be called upon
to rectify the defects and to improve the
advantages which nature affords; for it

feet, the widest on those broad sides
that face the south, which not only is
beneficial to the trees, but convenient

is very seldom that the natural situation ' for raising early crops, &c. Next to

KNI

335

LAB

this should be a walk five feet

width, likewise extendin

area.

Fig. 95.

round the green shrubs
I and peat

KYDIA. Two species. Stove ever-
Cuttings. Sandy loam

LABEL. That which combines du-
rability with facility of reference and
cheapness, is a small piece of deal,
planed smooth, painted white, and
written upon with a lead pencil.

Respecting the inclosure of the kitch-
en garden, see Hedges and Walls.

KLEINHOVIA Iwspita. Stove ever- ; When required for a seed-bed, a small
green tree. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

KNIFE. Of this the gardener re-
quires several kinds. I. Garden Knife,
with a curved blade, for common rough
purposes. 2. Pruning Knife, with a
straight blade, and fine edge. 3. Graft

stake is to be driven into the ground,
and from it the label to be suspended.

LABICHEA. Two species. Green-
house shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

LABLAVIA. Six species, besides

ing knife, also straight-bladed, but with i varieties. Stove and green-house twin-
a thinner and narrower blade. 4. Bud- ers. Four annuals, the rest deciduous.
ding Knife, is like the grafting knife,' Annuals sow in pots in stove, seedlings
but should have a double-edged sharp plant out at end of May. Deciduous by

point, like an oyster- knife, and the
handle of ivory, is wedge-shaped, for
raising the bark from the wood. There
is a variety of superior excellence, call-
ed Curtis's Budding Knife. 5. Aspara

cuttings. Common soil.

LABURNUM. Cytisus Laburnum.

Varieties. — Common Broad-leafed
Laburnum ; Narrow-leafed long-spiked
Laburnum ; Short-spiked Laburnum ;

gus Knife, has cither a strong straight Variegated-leafed Laburnum, and Mid-
blade, with a sharp chisel-shaped point, die-sized Laburnum (C. L. interme-
or a slightly curved blade, with a saw- j dium). The first two of which varieties
edge on the inner side of the curve. ' are tolerably permanent from seed, but

KNIGHTIA excejsa. Green - house the other two must be continued by
evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam, peat, cuttings.
and sand. I Propagation. — By Seed. — The seed

KNOXIA. Four species. Stove ever- ! grows freely in the open ground, and
green shrubs, except JiT. teiv's, which is
annual. The former are increased by
cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

KOLREUTERIA paniculata. Hardy
deciduous tree. Layers and root-cut-
tings. Sheltered common soil.

should be sown in March, in four-feet
beds, drilling it in half an inch deep;
they will come up in six or seven weeks.
Keep them weeded during summer;
and in spring following the seedlings in
general, if they stand very close, may
KONIGA maritima, var. variegata. ' be transplanted into the nursery in rows.

Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Common soil.

KRAMERLV pauciflora. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

KRIGIA. Two species. Hardy an-
nuals. Seed. Sandy loam

two feet distance, allowing them more
room as they advance in growth; and
here they may remain two, three, or
four years, till large enough for the
shrubbery.

By Cuttings. — October or Novem-
ber is the best time for planting them.

KUHNIA. Four species. Two hardy, I Choose young shoots eight, ten, or
and two green-house herbaceous. Divi- | twelve inches long ; plant them in rows,
sion. Sandy loam and peat. I a foot apart, and five or six inches in

LAB

336

LAM

the lines; and they will be rooted in
one year.

All the culture these plants require
in the nursery, is to keep them clear
from weeds, and to hoe frequently the
ground between the rows. — Abercrom-
bie.

L^TIA thamnia. Stove evergreen
shrub. Cuttings. Rich loam and peat.

LAGASCA mollis. Stove annual.
Seed. Common soil.

LAGENARIA vulgaris. See Gourd.

LAGERSTRCEMIA. Four species.
Stove evergreen shrubs, and one varie-

LABYRINTH is an arrangement of I ty, L. 2/idifa rosea, for the green-house.

■walks, inclosed by hedges or shrubbe
ries, so intricate as to be very difficult
to escape from. From the twelfth cen-
tury to the end of the seventeenth, they
were a very favourite portion of English
pleasure grounds, but they are now
more judiciously banished.

LACHENALIA. Thirty-five species.
Green-house bulbs, except L. glauca,
which is hardy. Seed and offsets.
Sandy peat.

LACHNANTHES tinctoria. Green-
house herbaceous. Seed and division.
Sandy peat.

LACKEY MOTH. See Clisiocampa.
LACTUCA. Lettuce. Seven species,
and many varieties. Hardy annuals.
Seed. Common rich soil. See Let-
tuce.

LADY'S FERN. Aspidium thelyp-
terum.
LADY'S MANTLE. Alchemilla.
LADY'S SLIPPER. Cypripedium.
LADY'S SMOCK. Cardamine.
LADY'S TRESSES. Neottia spira-
lis and spiranthes.

L^LIA. Sixteen species. Stove
epiphytes. Oifsets. Peat and pots-
herds. Mr. Beaton gives the following
directions for the treatment of L. super-
biens, and they are applicable to the
rest of the genus : —

" In April, place it in the warmest
end of the green-house, and there let it
remain till all its shoots are three parts
grown, about the end of June; then
place it in the stove, and let it have as
much air as possible, watch its buds
narrowly, and leave it in the stove till
they are in a forward plump state, then
remove it to a cooler place, and allow
it to go gently to rest as the season de-
clines. If all has gone on well with it,
the flower spikes will make their ap-
pearance as soon as it is at complete
rest in November: at this time the same
heat given to the camellia suits it best,
so that it may safely be taken to the
drawing room for the winter, and hav-
ing previously finished its growth, little
or no water need be given it while in
the drawing room." — Gard. Chron.

Cuttings. Peat and loam.

For the culture of L. indica, Mr. R.
Reid gives the following directions: —
" It should be kept all winter in the
green-house, or even the back sheds
will do perfectly well, and no water
should be given to it. About the middle
or latter end of April, it will begin to
grow, when the young shoots may be
thinned out, and the remainder short-
ened a little; the plant should then be
placed in the stove or vinery, where
there is a brisk heat. It will grow vi-
gorously till June, and will then appear
as if it had done growing for the season,
but in a few weeks, when the young
shoots are well ripened, it will make a
second push at the extremity of every
young shoot. These are the flowering
shoots; and by the month of August it
will be loaded with its beautiful tresses
of purple flowers " — Gard. Chron. On
light well drained soils and sheltered
locations in Pennsylvania, the Lager-
strffimia supports the winter — further
south it is seen in great luxuriance, fif-
teen or twenty feet in height.

LAGETTA lintearia. Stove ever-
green shrub. Ripe cuttings. Loam and
peat.

LAGONYCHIUM stephanianum .
Half-hardy evergreen shrub. Seed, cut-
tings, and layers. Common soil.

LAHAYA'. Ten species. L. alsini-
folia and L. minuartoides are hardy ; L.
diffusa, a green-house, annual trailer ;
the others green-house and stove ever-
green shrubs, except L. polycanpoides,
which is herbaceous. These are in-
creased by cuttings. Sandy peat.

LALAGE orna^a. Green-house ever-
green shrub. Young cuttings. Sand,
loam, and peat.

L A M B E R T I A. Eight species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

LAMB'S LETTUCE, or CORN SA-
LAD, {Valerianella olitoria,) is grown
for winter and spring salads. The first
dish formerly brought to table, was a
red herring set in a corn salad.

Soil and Situation. — It will flourish in

L AM

337

LAN

any soil that is not particularly heavy ;
the best is a sandy moderately fertile
loam, in an open situation.

Time and Mode of Sowing. — Seed
may he sown in February and the two
following months, and once a month
during the summer, if in request; but
it is not so palatable during this season.
Lastly, during August and early in Sep-
tember, the plants from which will be
fit for use in early spring, or during the
winter, if mild. Three sowings are in
general quite sufficient for a family,
viz., one at the end of February, a
second early in August, and a third
early in September.

The seed sown in drills, six inches
apart. The only cultivation required
is the keeping the plants free from
weeds by frequent hocings, they being
previously thinned to four inches asun-
der. They should always be eaten quite
young. In summer, the whole plant
may be cut, as they soon advance to
seed at this season ; but in spring and
winter the outer leaves only should be
gathered, as directed for spinach.

To obtain Seed. — Some of the spring-
raised plants must be left ungathered
from. They flower in June, and per-
fect their seed during the two following
months.

L.^MIUM orvala. Hardy herbaceous.
Seed and division. Common soil. Some
varieties of L. longifolium and L. rugo-
suin are also cultivated in gardens.

LAMPWICK. Phlomis lychnitis.

LAND-DITCHING. See Draining.

LANDRA. Rapkanus landra.

LANDRETH, David, was a native
of England, the son of a farmer of Ber-
wick upon Tweed. Early in life his
attention was attracted by plants and
flowers, and yielding to his fondness for
them, and impulses which they only
who love nature can fully appreciate, he
determined to a<lopt gardening as a
profession. At that day the art was
less widely and ardently pursued than
at the present, and the sources of in-
formation, and consequent means of im-
provement, were limited. Then publi-
cations on the subject were not, as now,
of almost daily issue. Periodicals on
gardening and rural afi'airs were un-
known ; and, save the works of Miller,
there was scarcely one for reference.
Since then Horticulture has assumed its
rightful place as a delightful if not a
22

fine art, cherished and pursued by the
intellectual and refined.

The subject of this sketch, after hav-
ing availed himself of the usual routine
of practice in the neighbourhood of his
birth-place, as a mean most likely to
promote his views, and extend his
knowledge of the more approved rules
of the profession which he had espoused,
removed to the vicinity of London.
Here he profited by an observance
of the operations in the extensive
nursery establishments and pleasure-
grounds around the metropolis ; and,
having prepared himself for the efficient
practice of his art, embarked for Ame-
rica. The hostilities between the mo-
ther country and her colonies, then ex-
isting, prevented his sailing for a middle
port, and he accordingly took passage
for Quebec, where he resided for three
years. On the conclusion of the war,
his longing desire to remove to a south-
ern point, and climate more genial to
his pursuit, could now be gratified; and
in the autumn of 1784 he arrived in Phi-
ladelphia, the spot towards which his
eye had been unwaveringly directed —
but why, he has been heard to say, he
could not tell. There all were stran-
gers. Within its wide extent there did
not live a solitary being with whom he
could claim acquaintance, much less
friendship. How many have since fol-
lowed from their fither-land, and found
peaceful and happy homes!

With a pocket but scantily supplied,
and winter approaching, when but little
employment in his line could be ex-
pected, he availed himself of a tempo-
rary engagement. It was not long,
however, ere his qualifications and cor-
rect deportment secured the favourable
notice of Robert Morris, the distinguish-
ed revolutionary patriot, in whose em-
ployment he entered, and continued for
several years, and with whose regard
he was honoured until the close of Mr.
Morris' eventful'life.

Mr. L., on relinquishing the employ-
ment of Mr. Morris, was enabled to
carry out his long-cherished and origi-
nal design of establishing himself as a
Nurseryman ; and shortly thereafter
laid the foundation of vvliat has been
known throughout the Union, for more
than half a century, as the " Landreth
Nurseries." He ultimately associated
with himself a younger brother, Cuth-
bert, who had followed him to America,

LAN

338

LAN

and their united efforts enabled them | dreth in the contemplation of his floral
successfully to conduct what was then I family. A beautiful plant, a noble
considered an extensive business. A tree, or a landscape decorated by the
scrupulous regard to wliat was due to hands of nature or of man, were to him
others secured respect and moderate , objects of the purest pleasure. After
competency. an active and well-spent life, and with

To the brothers Landreth, Philadel-'an enviable reputation, he died on the
phia is, in a degree, indebted for the 22d August, 1836, aged 84.
early development of horticultural taste, LANDSCAPF: GARDENING, as if3_
and in the ficilities which they aiforded name intimates, is the composition of
for its gratification the whole Union has beautiful scenery, so that all artifice is
participated. Their productions, orna- concealed by the blending of trees,
mental and useful, have been distributed shrubs, ground, and water: thus form-

far and wide. Specimens of fruits and
flowers from their grounds exist in al-
most every town and hamlet in the
country. The earliest collection of Ca-
mellias in America was made by them,
and their importations of valuable plants
and fruits were extensive. Their col-

ing vistas gratifying as those which
occur naturally. Admiration for such
scenery is an innate quality of the hu-
man mind ; and successfully to imitate
such scenery requires judgment as well
as taste. It is not possible, without an
enormous outlay, to introduce any spe-

lection of indigenous plants, obtained i cies of landscape beauty upon a given
through the agency and friendship of plot of ground. There is the beauty
traveling collectors, and local corre- I of the level surface, quite unattainable
bpondents, was, perhaps, the largest of upon a surface which is abrupt and bro-
ils day, if we except the magnificent ; ken. The beauty of the clay districts
one of the Bartram Botanic Garden. is not to he secured upon those of the
How vast have been the enlargement chalk; neither on light uplands can be
of horticultural taste, and the means of; arranged' the dense beauties of well-
gratifying it since Mr. Landreth first | watered alluvions. " Consult the genius
embarked in his floral enterprise! Then of the place" is an axiom which has
a green-house, or, as it was popularly ^ been derided, but which is dictated by
termed, a "glass-house," was an ob- ' the soundest sense,
ject of amazement, and a simple rose, j A writer upon the general principles
exhibited in a window budding and of landscape gardening has some very
blooming " out of season," attracted a jjudicious remarks, from which the fol-
wondering crowd. Now a residence in
town or country is scarcely considered

lowing are extracts

Although due light and shade are

perfect which does not embrace at least necessary to bring out striking effects,
a room prepared for the preservation of I colour must be attended to. Light and
plants ; and the thousands who throng , shade, we all know, when the sun
the exhibitions of our Horticultural So- ! shines, vary every moment; and ther^-
ciety evince the extent of interest on fore it becomes a study so to assort

the subject.

The temperate and regular habits of
Mr. Landreth promoted health, and
protracted life beyond the ordinary
term. In manners he was plain and
unobtrusive; his temperament ardent,
actively sympathizing with the alHicted,
or warming with indignation at oppres

objects, within range of the principal
point of view, as to bring out various
good effects. Not only must we regard
the diurnal motion of the sun, but his
position in the ecliptic; so that when
he is at various elevations and posi-
tions, light may make the lights and
hadows spread out where they may

sion. His fondness for plants increased make the strongest impression on the
with age, and, though their culture j eye.

was the source of his support, he loved
them for themselves alone. " Trade
was, with him, an adjunct to the grat

" This is a point not much attended
to, but one of^ the greatest value, and
well deserving the closest study by the

fication of a refined enjoyment. Never landscape-gardener. Frequently the ad-
did painter look upon his canvas, in glo- ! mission, at a particular spot, of a mere
nous enthusiasm for his art, with an eye I streak of light eidivens a whole scene,
more abstracted from the lucre which and excites the highest admiration. Sun-
his pencil brought, than did David Lau- | shine through trees, when the orb itself

LAN

339

LAN

18 concealed, and the rays are pene- i an indication of want of invention. The
trating, a thin shower falling among | country is covered with new residences
them, produces at times delightful ef- [ in the Elizabethan style ; and there is
fects. ' a sameness that is rather tiresome, and

" The variety of green tints is very I far from being so picturesque as the
great, and their disposition of import- castellated, with all its modern incon-

ance. Green is a mixture of blue and
yellow, and the predominance of either

ruities.
"Dwelling-houses should be arranged

must be studied. A different suit of for comfort, and, where means are at

colours appears in the autumn, the yel
low prevailing, but mixed with red in-
stead of blue, which seems to disappear
from the tints of autumn. Some trees
change colour early, as the horse-chest-
nut; others late, as the beech and oak.
Advantage should be taken of this, and
trees arranged accordingly. Evergreens

command, also tor elegance and gran-
deur, both internally and externally.

" The ruins of ancient buildings pro-
duce a most pleasing effect, and they
ought to be preserved ; but it would be
preposterous in our day to build that
which is felt to be impressive only
when in a state of ruin. This is a sub-

hi^^oaiiaii^cu av.^v^iuiiitiiy. i:>>dtiittjii3 ....^.. ... — — — -- —

should generally be so disposed as to ject not altogether separated from land

form a mass when other trees are naked ;
but, in some situations, single pines and
firs, if room be given to them, produce
a fine effect.

" When a house is to be built where
trees already abound, difficulties will
occur in choosing a site. It is danger
ous to cut down trees before the build

scape gardening

" When a professor finds buildings in
his way, it is his business either to hide
them or to exhibit them to the best ad-
vantage."— Card. Chron.

Under this general head it would be
misplaced to enter more fully into de-
tails ; for these will be found, under

ing has been erected ; and yet effects \ their appropriate titles, in other pages,
may not be brought out, so as to assist , and chiefly borrowed from Mr. Whate-

in the choice, without thinning. It is
al.so difficult to conduct roads where
trees stand thickly ; in such a case the

ley, who has published more correct
views upon the art of tastefully arrang-
ing grounds than any man who has ever

landscape-gardenershould proceed with ' written upon the subject.

great caution, removing first such trees I A taste for landscape-gardening, like

as are not in themselves worthy of a ■ that for the higher order of painting,

place

sculpture and other fine arts, is the

"The disposition of water, where ' slow product of wealth and easy leisure,

,.',■. . -.1 I 1 ;_ ,l;.,.:„„t C. ~ 1„„„ „(" <t.^,.,„>=

sheets of it are to be interspersed with
trees and shrubs, has a fine effect in
certain situations when managed with
judgment. But we cannot teacfi judg-
ment any more than taste, both being
gifts of nature.

" Of all tilings connected with land-
scape-gardening, buildings are often
most offensive ; and we find the gross-

and is distinct from a love of flowers
evinced alike by the young and the
aged, the intellectual and the illiterate.
In the United States, as might be ex-
pected in a new country, the mass are
too busily engaged in the every day
cares of life to devote attention to such
objects — but few comparatively, " the
architects of their own fortunes,"' hav«

est defects of taste frequently displayed | acquired the means to indulge in luxu-
both in their style and position. Many ' rious expenditures. We are, however,
persons are apt to associate external acquiring taste on this and kindred sub-
nature with the state of society in time jects, and with the increasing wealth,
long past. This is an error that has ; the general education and superior in-
led to many trespasses against nature's telligence which characterize the Ame-
rule. A man will build a castle be- j rican people, there can be no doubt
cause the situation he fixed for it is a that long before we can be called an
commanding one, and would have an- [ old nation, our tastes will have been
swered all the purposes of defence in refined, and our capacity to appreciate
a rude state of society. His taste leads the beautiful largely developed. Al-
him into expense, and to the sacrifice ' ready we have evidence of" tlie march
of convenience and comfort. The adop- of improvement," as exhibited in the
tion of former styles shows taste in pretty cottages, with their decorated
some instances; but we rather think it i grounds, around our towns and cities}

LAN

340

L AU

an onward step towards that which in i Their roots will endure many years."
portions of Europe, especially in Eng- [
land, gives such charm to the country,
and to country life.

■Abercrombie.
LARREA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.

Those who wish to consult works on Loam, peat, and sand.

Landscape Gardening and Rural Archi-
tecture, almost indivisible, are referred

LASER- WORT. Thapsia lascrpetii.
LASIANDRA. Three species.

to Loudon's "Encyclopaedia of Cottage, Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.

Farm and Villa Architecture," Lou-
don's "Suburban Gardener," Downing's
" Landscape Gardening," Downing's
" Cottage Residences," &c.

LANTANA. Twenty-nine species.

Loam, peat and sand.

LASIOPETALUM. Two species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe
cuttings. Loam and peat.

LASIOSPERMUM. Five species.

Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy I Hardy evergreen trailers. Cuttings.

loam

LARIX. Larch. Two species, and
many varieties. Hardy conifers. Seed.
Light soil on a dry sub-soil. See Coni-
fer <£.

LARKSPUR. Delphinium.

Propagation and Culture. — The an-
nual sorts and varieties are sown an-

Sandy loam.

LASTHENLA. Two species. Har-
dy annuals. Seeds sown in autumn.
Common soil.

LATANIA. Three species. Stove
palms. Seed. Rich loam, abundantly
watered.

LATERALS, or side shoots, are

nually in September or October, or , those which spring from the sides of
early in spring, in patches where the I the main branches, and are thus de-
plants are to flower — for they do not scribed in contradistinction to the ter-
succeed by transplantation — observing, , minal or leading shoots of the branches,
that those of the autumn sowing grow [ The laterals on the lower branches, like
stronger, flower earlier, and the flowers i those branches themselves, are usually
are generally larger and more durable ' longer as they approach the base of the

tree, because they extend to obtain the
benefit of the light kept from them by
the branches above. If unable thus to
extend, as in the case of inner trees of
those planted in clumps, the laterals
die, and occasion the denudation of

than the spring-sown plants. It is,
however, proper to sow some in spring,
in February or March, to continue a
longer succession of bloom.

" Dig with a trowel small patches,
about nine inches diameter, in diff*erent
parts of the borders towards the middle, I their trunks. If the terminal shoot be

as also in the t'ronts of the shrubbery
clumps; and in each such patch sow
eight, ten, or twelve seeds a quarter of

cut away, the laterals increase more in
length, not only because more sap is
thus afforded them, but because an ex-

an inch deep ; and when the plants are [ tra effort is made to advance into the
an inch or two high, thin those of the ' desired degree of light,
unbranched sorts to about six or eight I LATHYRUS. Fifty-four species,
n each patch, and of the branched Chiefly hardy perennial climbers, among

which is the Everlasting Sweet Pea :
but many are annuals. Seed. Com-
mon soil.

LATTREL. Lauru.s.
LAUREL CHERRY. Cerasus lau-
ro-rerasus.

LAURESTINUS. Viburnum tinus.
LAURUS. Twenty-five species.

kinds to three or four in each place,

which is all the culture they require.

But when intended to show in beds by

themselves, they are commonly sown

in drills, forming them lengthwise, the

beds a foot asunder, and half an inch

deep. The unbranched kinds are the

best adapted for this mode of culture.

" The perennial sorts are also raised j Hardy, green-house and stove, some

plentifully from seeds sown in autumn ! evergreen, others deciduous. Thisge-

or spring, in a bed or border of com- j nus includes the laurel, bay, benzoin,

mon earth, for transplantation when and sassafras trees. Layers and cut-
tings. Sandy loam.

Pruning. — The best month for prun-
ing the common laurel, and probably
the whole of the evergreens of thia
genus, is April.

the plants come up. Hand-weed ther
occasionally, and thin them to three or
four inches distance, to remain till Oc-
tober or November; then plant them
out where they are to remain to flower.

LAV

341

LAVANDULA. Lavender. Ten spe- ^ green shrub
cies. Hardy and half-hardy evergreen I and sand.
shrubs. Cuttings. Light gravelly ioam
L. Spica. Common Lavender.

Soil and Situation. — A poor and light

LAW

Cuttings.

Loam, peat

LAW RELATING TO GARDENS.
The following exposition of existing
laws in Great Britain may as a matter

soil is best suited to this plant, being • of curiosity interest the American read
in such, more fragrant, longer lived, | ^r. Here where each state has its own
and more capable of enduring severe i peculiar enactments, even a synopsis
weather. In rich or moist soils it of them would be too voluminous for
grows luxuriantly, but is in general '^^'^ pages

destroyed during the winter
situation cantiot be too open

The

Landlord and Tenant. — Lord Kenyon
was of opinion that market gardeners

Time and Mode of Planting. — It is j ""d nurserymen may remove the green-
propagated by slips and cuttings of the houses and hot-houses which they have
current year's shoots, planted in May erected on the land of which tliey are
and June, as well as by cuttings of those tenants, even without an agreement;
which are a year old '; to be planted in | l^"' this is doubtful; they may, how-
March, April, and early Mav. Both i ever, remove trees, or such as are
slips and cuttings must be from five to ( I'kely to become so, in the necessary
seven inches in length, which, after , '^o^ifse of their trade. If it were other'-
being stripped to half their length of ^^ise, the very object of their holding

the lower leaves, are to be planted to
that depth either in a shady border, or
in any compartment, to have the shade
of a mat during mid-day until they have
taken root, in rows six inches apart
each way. Water must be given in
moderate quantity every evening until
thus established.

Having attained sulTicient strength,
they may be moved to their final sta-
tions in September or October, which

would be defeated. {Penton y.Robarl,
2 East, 90.) But the outgoing tenant
of a garden must not at the end of his
term plough up strawberry-beds in full-
bearing, which when he entered he
bought of a former tenant; although it
is the general practice to appraise and
pay for these plants as between out-
going and incoming tenants. — For such
conduct is malicious, and not in the
due course of business. (IVetherell y.

is the season to be preferred, or they ■ Howell, 1 Campbell, 227.) So a tenant
maybe left until the succeeding spring, (""t a gardener by trade) must not re-
If it is grown in considerable quantity "love a box edging planted on ground
for medicinal purposes, which is the rented by him of another. Neither is
only claim it has for a place in the I'e entitled, says Mr. Justice Littledale,
herbary, it must be planted in rows two (unless by special agreement,) to re-
feet apart each way, otherwise only move flowers which he had planted,
detached plants are inserted along the {J^'npson v. Soden, 4 Barn, and Adolph.
borders. The only after-culture re- Cjj.) And a similar decision has de-
quired is the occasional employment of termined that a farmer who raises young
the hoe, the decayed spikes and branch- f"""'' trees on the land he hires, tor fill-
es being removed in autumn, and the }"S "P "" orchard upon the premises,

surface gently stirred with the spade in
the spring.

not entitled to sell those young trees ;
but it is otherwise of a nurseryman bv

The flowers are ready for gathering, trade. (IVyndham v. Way, 4 Taunton,
either to dry or for distillation, in July 316.)
or the end of June

LAVATER.\. Twenty-five species

Even if nurserymen are entitled,
without a special agreement, to remove

Some hardv herbaceous," increased l.y the hot-houses they have erected upon
seed and division, in common soil ; '''*"[ '='"'' """^'^ '*^'"'' ^f'"^'' '« very
and the annuals and biennials may be ^oubtlul, that right does not extend m

may be

spring-sown in the same. The green-
house and half-hardy are propagated by
ripe cuttings in sandy loam.

LAVENDER. Lavandula.

LAVENDER COTTON. Santolina.

every instance to other tenants. Thus,
a tenant was adjudged not entitled to
remove a conservatory erected by him-
self on a brick foundation, attached to
a dwelling-house, and communicating
with it by windows and a door, and by

LAVRADIA montana. Stove ever- ; a flue passing into the parlour chimney.

LAW

343

LAW

{Buckland v. Butterfield, 2 Brod. and
Bing. 540 A tenant is liable to pay for
the waste if he cuts down any fruit
trees in the garden or orchard he holds,
but not if they are not growing within
the garden or orchard. (Coke's Litt.
53, a.) But he may take away a wood-
en shed which he had built on brick-
work, and posts and rails he had put
up. {Fitzherbert v. Shaw, 1 H. Black-
stone, 259.)

Law Protecting Gardens. — Gardens
were not sufficiently protected by law
until the year 1828, when the statute
7 & 8 Geo. IV. c. 29 was passed.

Section 38 of this statute enacts that
to steal or cut, brake, root up, or other-
wise destroy, or damage, with intent to
8teal, the whole or any part of any tree,
sapling, or shrub, or any underwood,
above the value of 1/. respectively
growing in any park, pleasure-ground,
garden, orchard or avenue, or in any
ground adjoining or belonging to any
dwelling-house, or above the value of
5/. in any other situation, is felony, and
punishable as simple larceny.

By section 39, if the injury to the
trees, shrubs, &c., amounts to less than
1/., but to Is. at the least, then sum-
mary punishment may be inflicted by a
justice of the peace. A fine may be
imposed not exceeding 5Z. above the
injury done, upon the first conviction;
by imprisonment with hard labour, not
exceeding twelve months, upon a se-
cond conviction, and, if the conviction
take place before two justices of the
peace, by public or private whipping ;
and the third offence, after two previous
convictions, is felony, punishable as
simple larceny

growing in any land, open or inclosed,
not being a garden, orchard, or nursery-
ground, is punishable upon summary
conviction by fine, imprisonment with
or without hard labour, and by public
or private whipping, according to the
nature of the offence.

So, by section 42, to steal or destroy,
or damage with intent to steal, any
plant, root, fruit, or vegetable produc-
tion, growing in any garden, orchard,
nursery-ground, hot-house, or conser-
vatory, is, for the first offence, punish-
able, upon summary conviction, by im-
prisonment with or without hard labour,
not exceeding six months, or by fine,
not exceeding 20/. ; but the second of-
fence is felony, punishable as simple
larceny.

Lastly, by section 44, to steal, or rip,
cut, or break with intent to steal, any
glass or wood-work belonging to any
building whatsoever, or any lead, iron,
copper, brass, or other metal, or any
utensil or fixture, whether made of me-
tal or other material, respectively fixed
to any building, or anything made of
metal fixed in any land, being private
property, or for a fence to any dwelling-
house, garden, or area, or in any square,
street, or other place dedicated to pub-
lic use or ornament, is felony, punish-
able as simple larceny.

Spring Guns and Man Traps. — These
were formerly permitted by law to be
set in woods, gardens, &c., without any
restriction. Injuries the most severe,
and even death, were inflicted by them,
and the legislature, wisely considering
that these punishments were visitations
far too excessive for stealing, or intend-
to steal fruit or game, passed the

By sections 40, 41, and 43, to steal, ! statute 7 & S Geo. IV. c. 18. This en-
or to cut, break, or throw down, with , acts that any person who sets or places,
intent to steal, any part of any live or or causes to be set or placed, any spring-

dead fence, or any wooden post, pale,
or rail, set up or used as a fence, or any
stile or gate, or any part thereof; or to
have possession of the whole or any
part of any sapling or shrub, or any
underwood, or any part of any live or

gun, man-trap, or other engine calcu-
lated to destroy human life, or inflict
grievous bodily harm, with the intent
or whereby the same may destroy or
inflict grievous bodily harm upon a
trespasser or other person coming

dead fence, or any post, pale, rail, stile contact therewith, shall be guilty of a

or gate, or any part thereof respective'
ly, of the value of 2.S., without satisfac-
torily accounting for that possession ;
and to steal , or destroy, or damage with
intent to steal, any cultivated root or

misdemeanor and punishable by fine or
imprisonment, or both, at the discretion
of the court.

The act further provides that persons
i allowing such guns, traps, or engines

plant used for the food of man or beast, { already set to continue sot, shall be

or for medicine or distilling, or dyeinf
or for or in the course of manufacture.

deemed to have set them.

But the Act does not extend to any gin

LAW

343

LAW

or trap set to destroy vermin; nor does
it forbid the setting of spring-guns, man-
traps, &c., in a dwelling-house, from
sunset to sunrise. This would justify
their being set in any green -house,
conservatory, or hot-house, provided it
communicated by a door, window or

as those going empty. — Rex. r. Adams,
6 M. & S. 52.

Also, the statute 3 Geo. IV. c. 126,
s. 32, enacts that no toll shall be taken
for any horse or other cattle or carriage,
employed in carrying or having been
employed in carrying on the same day

passage with the house in which the any dung, soil, compost, or manure for

proprietor or his servants resided

improving lands. The word " manure'

Tithes Payable on Gardens. — Gardens includes bone-dust, and, it secmg,
and orchards are tithable by common j bones before they are crushed. Pratt
law, and tithes in kind are due not only ; v. Brown, 8 Cnr. & P. 244. But the
for all herbs, plants, fruits, and seeds ^ statute 4 Geo. IV. c. 95, s. 23, declares
usually grown in them, but for grass or • that nothing in the 3 Geo. IV. c. 126,
grain grown therein. The insignificance shall work any such exemption to ma-

of the herb makes no difference as to
its liability, for even parsley is tithable.
(Bunbury, 10.) Neitlier does it matter
whether the produce be grown for sale
or home consumption. {Williamson v.
Lonsdale, 1 Daniel, 49.) Neither does
the plants being raised for pleasure, or
as exotic, at a great expense, and not
by the natural powers of the soil and
climate, make any difference. So all
fruits and flowers are tithable, {Hetley,
100,) and so are pine apples, melons,
and other hot-house plants, because as
was observed by Chief Baron Skinner,
the tithe of gardens is praedial. The
notion of artificial heat and soil would
exclude almost all the produce of gar

nure, &c., if a toll is expressedly im-
posed upon such matters by any local
Act or Acts.

Where wagons, &c., laden with
manure are exempt from toll, such
wagons, &c., in going for it shall be
exempted also. — 3 Geo. IV. c. 126. s.
26. But in the latter case the driver,
upon receiving a ticket, shall pay the
toll, to be repaid when he returns with
his wagon, &c., laden. Section 28,
also, provides that any basket, empty
sack, or spade, &c., necessary for load-
ing, if the loading is substantially ma-
nure for land, shall not renderthe wagon
&c., liable to toll. So, a wagon re-
turning from London loaded with dung

dens ; things raised under glasses are ', is not liable to be weighed and charged
raised in an artificial soil, but must all for over-weight, under 13 Geo. III. c.
be subject to the same rule. Inocula- 84, or 14 Geo. III. c. 82, by carrying
tion, to be sure, is a work of art, but home two empty bottles and an empty
art and expense used will not make any sack, in which the produce of husbandry

difference. Baron Eyre added : " Hot
house plants are certainly not exempt.
The general rule is clear, and the in-
conveniences attending it are not great ;
mutual inconveniences will suggest mu-
tual moderation. {Adams v. Waller,
Gwillim, 1204.) Bees are tithable for
their honey and wax by the tenth mea-

had been brought from the country the
same dav. — Chambers v. Eaves, 2 Camp.
393.

Lime has been adjudged not exempt
from toll, although the words of the
Act were " anything whatsoever used
in the manuring of land,'' {Rex v.
Gough, 2 Chit. 655,) nor yet within the

sure and the tenth pound. It has been : exception of the Turnpike Act, 31 Geo.
doubted whether the tenth swarm can II. — {Anon. Lofft. 324.) Lime, how-
be demanded, because bees are fera ever, is sometimes exempted, as by the
naturae, but bees in hives may pay tithe local Act 3 & 4 Vict. c. 51.
by the hive. (3 Croke, 404.) Nurseries LAWN is a surface of turf in the
of trees are tithable if the owner dig vicinity of the house, requiring to be
them up and sell them. (1 Coke, 526, ; kept smooth by the regular application

&c.)

of the roller and scythe. When first

Manures Exempt from. Toll. — The constructed, after the ground has been

statute 52 Geo. III. c. 145, works a dug over as level as may be, it must be

general exemption, in favour of agri- , rolled, the hollows filled up, and this

culture, (and horticulture too, for the repeated until a level surface of earth

words of the statute are not restrictive is obtained. It must then be slightly

to manures used on farms,) to wagons, pointed over with a fork, and the turf

carts, &c., loaded with manure, as well laid, or the grass seed sown. See

LAW

344

LEA

Turfing. If seed be employed, the fol- } to compel the returning sap to organize
lowing is a good selection, and in the itself externally as roots, instead of

requisite proportions for an acre. The
best season for sowing is during moist
weather in March.

On 1 acre of new lawn, sow the fol-
lowing grass seeds : Festuca durius-
cula, 4| lbs. ; Avena flavescens, H Ih. ;
LoUium perenne, 30 lbs.; Poa nemoralis,
3 1bs. ; P. sempervivens, 2 lbs.; P.tri-
vialis, 2i lbs. ; Trifolium repens, 1 1
lbs., and T. minus, 3 lbs. This is a
sufficient quantity to cover the ground
closely in a short time.

In very dry weather all lawns should
be watered, and if a little guano and
muriate of lime be dissolved in the water

passing downwards below the bark. as
wood. The bending back is to assist
in this object by preventing the expend-
iture of sap in the formation or rather
completion of leaves, and the silver
sand is to secure the drainage so neces-
sary to cuttings.

" In most cases, this is sufficient ; but
it must be obvious, that the exact man-
ner in which the layering is effected is
unimportant, and that it may be varied
according to circumstances. Thus, Mr.
James Rlunro describes a successful
method of layering brittle-branched
plants by simply slitting the shoot at

it will keep the surface gently moist ; the bend, and inserting a stone at that

even in dry weather.

place ; {Gardener^s Magazine, ix. 302 ;)

A good kind of grass for improving a : and Mr. Knight found that, in cases of
lawn, is Crested Dogstail ,- it may be difficult rooting, the process is facili-
sown in March. Bush-harrow the lawn ' tated by ringing the shoot just below
in order to stir up the soil a little for the tongue about midsummer when the
the seed, which should be sown broad- | leaves upon th» layers had acquired their

cast when the ground is damp, passing
a garden roller over it when the ground
becomes sufficiently dry. — Gard. Chron.

LAWN RAKE, See article Turf.

LAWSONIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam, peat,
and sand.

LAXMANNIA gracile. Green-
house herbaceous. Division. Loam
and peat.

LAYER. The following excellent
combination of practice and science is
from Dr. Lindley's Theory of Horticul-
ture : —

" A layer is a branch bent into the
earth, and half cut through at the bend,
the free portion of the wound being
called ' a tongue.' It is, in fact, a cut-
ting only partially separated from its
parent. The object of the gardener is
to induce the layer to emit roots into
the earth at the tongue. With this
view he twists the shoot half round, so
as to injure the wood-vessels ; he heads
it back, so that only a bud or two ap-
pears above ground, and when much
nicety is requisite, he places a handful

of silver sand round tlie tongued part ; They are very general, but not ab-
then pressing the earth down with his solutely necessary organs, since the

full growth; {Hart. Trans, i. 256;) by
which means he prevented the passage
of the returning sap further downwards
than the point intended for the emission
of roots. It will sometimes happen that
a branch of a plant cannot be conve-
niently bent downwards into the earth ;
in such cases, the Fig. 97.

earth may be ele-
vated to the branch by
various contrivances,
as is commonly done
by the Chinese. When
this is done, no other
care is necessary than
that required for lay-
ers, except to keep
the earth surrounding
the branch steadily
moist." See Fig. 97.

L E A D W 0 R T.
Plumbago.

LEATUERWOOD.
Dirca.

LEAVES are highly vascular organs,
in which are performed some of the
most important functions of a plant.

foot, so as to secure the layer, he leaves
It without further care. The intention
of both tongueing and twisting is to pre-
vent tiie return of sap from the layer
into the main stem, while a small quan-
tity is allowed to rise out of the latter

ranches sometimes perform their of-
fices. Such plants, however, as na-
turally possess them, are destroyed or
greatly injured by being deprived of
them.

The duration of a leaf is in general

into the former; the effect of this being ' but for a year, though in some plants

LEA

345

LEA

tljey survive for twice or thrice that ] tuted of resinous and gummy matter,
period. These organs are generally ofl with carbonate and sulphate of lime.

. a green colour. Light seems to have i It appears to be nearly the same iu all
a powerful influence in causing this, | plants. The quantity varies, however,
since if kept in the dark they become ] in every species, probably in every in-
of a pale yellow or even white hue, un- ) dividual, and is greatly influenced by

'less uncombincd hydrogen is present, | the quantity of water applied to the
in which case they retain their verdure [ roots

though light be absent. Hence their
etiolation would seem to arise from
their being unable to obtain this gas
under ordinary circumstances, except
when light is present. Now the only

The transpiration of plants decreases
with that of the temperature to which
they are exposed, as well as with the
period of their growth. This explains
why the gardener finds that his plants

source from which they can obtain hy- j do not require so much water in cold
drogen, is by decomposing water ; and , weather, nor during the time that
how light assists in the decomposition, i elapses between the fall of their blos-
may perhaps be explained by the dis- i soms and the ripening of their seed.

oxygenizing power with which it is
gifted. The violet rays of the spectrum
have this power in the greatest degree ;
and Sennebier has ascertained by ex-
periment, that those rays have the
greatest influence in producing the
green colour of plants.

When leaves are of any other hue
than green, they are said to be coloured.
This variegation is often considered to

During this period they do not transpire
more than one-half so much as during
the period preceding and attending upon
their blooming.

The transpiration takes place from
the upper surface of the leaves; and
if these gradually decay and fall, the
growth of the plant ceases until fresh
leaves are produced. Hence arises the
benefit which plants derive in rooms,

be a symptom either of tenderness or | greenhouses, and other confined in-

closures, from keeping those surfaces
cleansed with the sponge and syringe.
Some plants are particularly sensitive
to injury from any check to their tran-
spiration, among which are the tea-
scented roses; and it thence arises that
they cannot now be cultivated in nur-
sery-gardens near London, where they
once flourished when that metropolis
was less extensive.

It must be remembered, however, in
using the sponge and syringe, that the
under side of leaves is an absorbing
surface, benefited by being kept clean,
and by the application of moisture.

debility, and it is certain, when the
leaves of a plant become generally
white that that individual is seldom
long-lived. Mr. Knight, however, has
demonstrated that variegation is not a
certain indication of a deficiency of
hardihood.

The function of the leaves appear to
be a combination of those of the lungs
and stomach of animals ; they not only
modify the food brought to them from
the roots, so as to fit it for increasing
the size of the parent plant, but they
also absorb nourishment from the atmo-
sphere. The sap, after elaboration in

these organs, differs in every plant. The kidney bean, sunflower, cabbage
though as far as experiments have been and spinach, absorb moisture equally

tried, it appears to be nearly the same
in all vegetables when it first arrives to
them. The power of a leaf to generate
sap is in proportion to its area of sur-
face, exposure to the light, and conge-
nial situation.

Evergreens transpire less moisture
than deciduous plants, which would
lead to the expectation that they are
more capable of living in dry situations,
which in general is really the case.
The matter transpired by a healthy
plant is nearly pure water, .5.000 grains
of it never containing more than one
grain of solid matter, and this is consti-

by their under and upper surfaces ; the
cockscomb, purple-leaved amaranth,
heliotrope, lilac, and balm, absorb most
freely by their upper surfaces ; and the
vine, pear, cherry, apricot, walnut,
mulberry, and rose, absorb most by
their under surfaces.

The transpiration from the leaves of
plants is effected through pores or stro-
mates, varying in number and size in
every species, but being usually either
largest or most numerous in plants in-
habiting moist or shady localities. This
is a wise provision, for such plants, con-
sequently, have an abundant supply of

LEA

346

LEE

moist food to their roots, requiring a j in which they are vegetating, though
competent provision for its elaboration one twenty-fifth is a still more favour-
and reduction from superfluous water. ! able proportion ; and as hot-beds, heated
Those plants which are natives of sandy | by fermenting matters, rapidly have the
exposed soils, have, on the other hand, air within their frames contaminated to
either fewer or smaller stromates. a much greater extent than the propor-

The drier the air the greater is the tions above named, thence arises the
amount of moisture transpired ; and injury to the plants they contain from a
this becomes so excessive, if it be also too long neglected ventilation. The
promoted by a high temperature, that leaves turn yellow from the excess of
plants in hot-houses, where it has oc- acid, which they are unable to digest,
curred, often dry up as if burned. The , and which consequently effects that
justly lamented Mr. Daniell has well | change of colour which also occurs in
illustrated this, by showing that if the ! autumn, and which will be more fully
temperature of a hot-house be raised considered when the decay of plants is
only five degrees, viz., from 15^ to 80^, detailed.

whilst the air within it retains the same Whatever promotes an over-luxuriant
degree of moisture, a plant that in the ', production of leaf-buds, proportionately
lower temperature exhaled 57 grains of diminishes the production of flower-
moisture, would in the higher tempera- buds, and the reason is obvious. A
ture exhale 120 grains in the same luxuriant foliage is ever attendant upon
space of time. Plants, however, like an over-abundant supply of moist nou-
animals, can bear a higher tempera- rishment to the roots, the consequent
ture in dry air than they can in air amount of sap generated is large, re-
charged with vapour ; animals are scald- quiring a proportionately increased sur-
ed in the latter, if the temperature is face of leaf for its elaboration, and
very elevated, and plants die under for the transpiration of the superfluous
similar circumstances as if boiled. MM. moisture; and as the bud becomes a
Edwards and Collin found kidney beans : branch or a root accordingly as circum-
sustained no injury when the air was ' stances require, so does it produce, as
dry at a temperature of 107^, but they may be necessary for the plant's health,
■ ' ■ either leaves or flowers. — Principles of

Gardening.

LEBECKIA. Six species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Seeds and
cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.
LEBRETONIA. Pavonia.
LECHENAULTIA. Two species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young

died in a fev/ minutes if the air was
moist.

Other plants under similar circum-
stances would perish, probably, at a
much lower temperature; and the fact
aff'ords a warning to the gardener to
have the atmosphere in his stoves very
drv, whenever he wishes to elevate

their temperature for the destruction of ^^^^ gandy loam and peat,

insects, or other purposes. Leaves have , r^o-,"T>riTc. c-
the power of absorbing moisture as LEC\THIS S.x species,
well as of emitting it, which power of evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings
absorption they principally enjoy during "^^ °^
the night.

During the day leaves also absorb
carbonic acid gas, which they decom-
pose, retaining its carbon and emitting
the greatest part of the oxygen that
enters into its composition. In the
night this operation is in a certain mea-
sure reversed, a small quantity of oxygen purposes the first year, it does not run
bein<T absorbed from the atmosphere, to seed until the second, the perfecting

Stove
San-

LEDON GUM. Cistus ledon.

LEDUM. Three species. Hardy
evergreen shrubs. Layers. Bog earth.

LEE-CHEE. Euphoria lichi.

LEEK. Allium porrum. The Leek
is a hardy biennial, for although it at-
tains perfection in size and for culinary

and a yet smaller proportion of car
bonic acid emitted.

Carbonic acid gas in small propor-
tions is essential to the existence of
leaves, yet it only benefits them when
present in quantities not exceeding one

of which it also often survives.

The whole plant is eaten, being em-
ployed in soups, &c., and is by some
persons boiled and eaten with meat.

Varieties. — There are four varieties ;
the Musselburgh, and the large London

twelfth of the bulk of the atmosphere [ Leek, which are by far the best; the

LEI

347

LEO

Scotch or Flag, which is larger and
hardier; and the Flanders.

Time and Mode of Sowing.— It is
raised solely from seed, which may be
sown at any time during the spring.

These sowings are performed in ge-
neral broadcast and raked in, though
some gardeners employ drills, the plants
to remain after thinning; the Leek,
however, is so much benefitted by ,
transplanting as obviously to point out ,
the error of this practice.

Cultivation.— When the plants are |
three or four inches in height, in eight
or ten weeks after sowing, they must
be weeded, hoed, and thinned, where
growing too close, to two or three inch-
es apart; water also being given, in
dry weather, will, with the above treat-
ment, strengthen and forward them for
transplanting in another month, or
when six or eight inches high. They
must be taken away regularly from the
seed bed ; the ground being well wa-
tered previously, if not soft and easily
yielding. VVhe'n thinned out they may
be left to remain in the seed bed six
inches asunder, as they do not grow so
large as the transplanted ones, which
must be set by the dibble in rows ten
inches apart, and eight in the lines,
being inserted nearly down to the
leaves, that the neck, by being covered
with the earth, may be blanched ; wa-
ter in abundance must be given at the
time of planting, and the long weak
leaves shortened, but the roots left as
uninjured as possible. The bed is hoed
over occasionally with advantage, as
well to kill the weeds as to loosen the
soil. By this treatment, and by cutting |
oif the tops of the leaves about once a
month, as new ones are produced, the ,
neck swells to a much larger size. The j
several sowings above directed will
vield a supply from August until the ,
following ^May, when they advance to j
seed. A portion should be always
taken up and laid in sand previous to
the ground being locked up by contin- !
ued frost, but they will not keep many
days in this situation. i

LEIANTHUS Nigrescens. Green-
house biennial. Seed. Light rich loam.
LEIMANTHIUM. Three species.
Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Wet peat
soil.

LEMA asptragi. The Asparagus
Beetle, by some naturalists called Cri-

oceris aisparagi is thus described by Mr.
Curtis : —

"The larva which abound from June
to September, not only eat off all the
leaves, bat even gnaw the rind from the
stem of the plants.

" The eggs are oval, and fixed on
the plants °by one of their ends, one
being sometimes attached to the end
of another. The larva; are hatched in
a little time; they are short, thick, and
fleshy, covered with hairs, wrinkled,
ash-coloured, with black head and legs;
they move very slowly, and when
alarmed emit a blackish fluid from
I their mouth.

I " When full grown, the larvse go in-
to the ground, where they contract a
thick cocoon, in which they assume the
pupa state. In a short time the per-
fect insect appears. It is about a quar-
ter of an inch long, of a blue black
colour, with cream coloured or yellow
spots on the wing cases, and a red
thorax. To lessen the ravages of the
insect, little more can be done than to
collect them by hand-picking or by
shaking them into a net. As many
beetles, however, may be found at the
time the Asparagus is cut, we recom-
I mend that all these should be destroyed
1 before they have an opportunity of de-
1 positing their eggs."— Ga?d. Chron. _

LEONOTIS. Four species. L. in-

\termedia is a stove evergreen shrub;

j and two are stove annuals, requiring

! the usual treatment of tender annuals.

Cuttings or seed. Loam and peat. L.

leonurus is a green-house evergreen

shrub, requiring the following treat-

' ment : —

I " Strike from cuttings in May ; keep
in a forty-eight pot during the winter ;
1 in the beginning of April put into a pot
I thirteen inches in diameter, and place
in a forcing frame kept at a tempera-
ture varying from 73" to 50°; here re-
main for about seven weeks, when
remove to the green-house.

" After the end of June, force as
much as possible by keeping the house
shut up during the day, so as to con-
centrate all the heat which can be
obtained from the sun, but no fire light-
ed except during cold nights in Sep-
tember and October; 120'^ is not too
1 groat for it, provided it has plenty of
water; never suffer the surface of the
I earth to become dry, and generally
I keep about an inch of water in the

LEO

348

LET

pan. The quantity required in hot
weather, nearly three gallons daily." —
Gard. Chron.

LEONITOPODIUM helveticum.
Hardy herbaceous. Seed or division.
Peat.

LEONURUS. Eight species, besides
varieties. Hardy perennials, biennials,
and annuals. Seed. Common soil.

LEOPARD'S BANE. Doronicum.

LEPANTHES. Two species. Stove

LETTUCE. Lactuca sativa.

" The Lettuce is a hardy annual,
introduced or cultivated in England
since 1562, but from what country is
unknown. The use of Lettuce, as a
cooling and agreeable salad, is well
known; it is also a useful ingredient in
soups. It contains, like the other spe-
cies of this genus, a quantity of opium
juice, of a milky nature, from which, of
ate years, medicine has been prepared.

epiphytes. Offsets. Damp moss under under the title of Lactucarium, and

a bell glass.

L E P E C H I N I A . Two species.
Hardy herbaceous. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

which can be administered with effect
in cases where opium is inadmissible.

" The varieties are very numerous.
Those herein enumerated have been

LEPIDAGATHIS cristata. Stove i selected from the many which have
herbaceous. Cuttings. Sandy rich come under our observation, and will

loam.

LEPIDIUM sativum. See Cress.

LEPTANDRA. Two species. Har-
dy herbaceous. Division. Common soil.

LEPTANTHUS gramineus. Hardy
aquatic. Offsets. Wet peat.

LEPTODERMIS lanceolata. Green-
house shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

LEPTOMERIA. Two species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and pent.

LEPTOSIPHON. Fivespecies.
Hardy annuals. Seed. Peat
autumn and in early spring.

LEPTOSPERMUM. Twenty-three
species. Green-house evergreen shrubs.
Cuttings and seed. Sandy loam and peat.

LEPTOSTELMA maximum. Half-
hardy herbaceous. Seed and division.
Light rich loam.

LEPTOTES bicolor. Stove epiphyte.
Division. Moss and potsherds.

LESPEDEZA. Twelve species.
Chiefly hardy herbaceous, shrubby, and

be found to suit the various seasons of
the year. Some varieties celebrated in
P^urope, are of little value here, soon
shooting to seed under our hot sun.

"The Early Cabbage Lettuce is the
earliest; it produces a moderately sized
and very firm head and is known among
the Philadelphia market gardeners as
the ' butter salad.'

" The Royal Cabbage Lettuce is a
very large variety, dark green, with
firm head, and withstands the sun bet-
Sow in Iter than the preceding variety, not
rapidly shooting to seed.

" The Palestine is a curiously spot-
ted variety, produces a firm head, and of
fair size.

" The India is a very fine kind, pro-
duces large hard heads, leaves wrinkled,
stands the sun remarkably well.

" The Philadelphia Cabbage re-
sembles the " Royal," and is in all re-
spects a desirable variety.

" The Early Curled does not head ;

annual plants. L. cryocarpa is a green- is used principally as " cut salad."
house evergreen shrub, and L. glome-] " The Cos, of which there are several
rata a stove twiner. Annuals sow in varieties, produce conical formed heads,
sheltered peat. Shrubs by cuttings, very succulent and crisp; soon run to

and herbaceous by division
peat

LESSERTIA. Nine species. Green-

In sandy Iseed ; should therefore be planted early
in the spring.

" The Brown Dutch somewhat re-

house annuals, herbaceous and shrubby sembles the eai-ly cabbage, the leaves
plants. Seed or cuttings. Sandy loam tinged with brown.

and peat.

LETHRUS cephulotes.

" Lettuce delights in a deep, rich soil,
A beetle not too heavy or humid. For early

preying upon the vine by gnawing ofl'^spring use sow about the middle of au-

its young shoots. It is common in Hun-
gary, but I do not know that it has been
observed in England.

LETTSOMIA tomentosa. Stove

tumn, in some sheltered situation, as
the plants, or a portion of them, are lo
remain there during the winter, lightly
covered with straw or cedar brush to

evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings. Loam protect them from extreme cold. Near

and peat.

|the close of autumn a planting may be

LET

349

LIB

made, as directed for " Early York
Cabbage," when intended to stand the
M'intor, (which see,) or they may be
planted with the caliba'Te alternately,
l-^ariy Cabbage, Brown Dutch and Pa-
lestine are better suited for planting at
this season.

" Part of those which remain in the
seed-bed during the winter, should be
transplanted as early in the spring as
the gtounti admits of being worked.
The remainder may be set out subse

prematurely, cannot be depended upon.
All other plants must be removed from
their neighbourhood, themselves being
left at least a foot apart ; neither is it
allowable for two varieties to flower
near each other, or only mongrel varie-
ties will be obtained. Each stem is ad-
vantagcoi\sly attached to a stake as a
support in tempestuous weather. It is
to be observed, that the branches must
be gathered as the seed ripens upon
them, and not left until the whole is

qucntly, which will ensure a more re- I ready, as some will ripen two or three
gular sup|ily. To secure an uninter- ' weeks before others, and consequently,
rupted succession, frequent sowings the first and best seed will be shed and
should be made during the early part of lost. It must be particularly well dried
summer, thus : — have the ground deep- | before it is beaten out and stored,
ly dug and raked fine ; stretch a line to ! Lettuce seed is considered to be best
the extent intended to be planted, j the second year ; but when three years
along which drop the seed thinly, and
rake it in. When the plants are an
inch or two in height, thin them to a
foot apart, and give frequent hoeings,
which will facilitate their growth.

In the earlier sowings those thinned
out may be transplanted, and will pro-
duce good heads; but when the wea-
ther has become warm and dry they
will not succeed well ; it is therefore
better to sow over as much ground as

old, it refuses to vegetate.

LETTITCE FLY. See Anthomyia.

LEUCADENDRON. Thirty-nine
species. Green-house evergreen shrubs.
Ripe cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

LEUCOCORYNE. Three species.
Ilalf-hardy bulbs. Seed and offsets.
Sandy loam.

LEUCCTUM. Snow-flake. Three spe-
cies. Hardy bulbs. Offsets. Sandv loam.

LEUCOPOGON. Fifteen species.

will produce the quantity required. For : Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young

cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

LEUCOSPERNUM. Fifteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe
cuttings. Sandy turfy loam. They re-
quire much watering.

LEUCOSTEMMA vestitum. Green-

the earlier sowings all varieties will an-
swer ; for the latter ones when the sea-
son is advanced and the heat greater,
the India and Royal Cabbage are better
sorts.
" During the heat ofsummer the heads

will be but poor, unless the season be i house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat,
very cool and humid. Sown about the { and sandy loam.

close of summer and early in autumn,

they will do well, as the weather will '. herbaceous

have become cool before they reach | mon soil.

maturity. When sown in autumn for

spring heading, it is advisable to take

some of the earliest and latest.

" Very good Lettuce may be had in
the early part of winter, if planted about
the middle of autumn, in frames in a
sheltered situation, covering the frames

LEUZEA. Five species.

Seed and division.

Hardy
Com-

LEWISIA redivivn. Hardy herba-
ceous. Division and seed. Sandy
loam and chalk.

LEYCESTRIA/or/nosa. Hardy ever-
green slirub. Cuttings and seed. Sandy
loam.

LEYSSERA. Four species. Green-

with glass or boards, when the weather ! house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat

becomes cool ; in mild weather, giving
plenty of air; where boards are used
removing them to admit light." — Rural
R^g.

To obtain Seed. — To produce seed
some of the finest and most perfect
plants of each variety that have sur-
vived the w inter, or from the forwardest
sowing of the year, should be selected.
The seed from any that have run up

and sandy loam.

LIATRIS. Twenty species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Sandy loam and
peat. Take up and give the shelter of
a frame during winter.

LIBANOTIS athamantoides. Hardy
herbaceous. Seed. Calcareous sandy
loam.

LIBERTIA formosa. Half-hardy
herbaceous. Division. Loam and peat.

L IC

350

L I L

LICHTENSTEINIA. Two species.
Green-house herbaceous. Seed. Sandy
loam.

LICUALA. Two species. Stove
palms. Seed. Sandy loam.

LIDBECKIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat,
and a little loam.

LIGATURES, twisted very tightly
round the small branches of trees, and
the stems of plants, to check the return
of their sap, and thus promote their
fruitful ness, and the size of the fruit,
are much to be preferred to ringing, or
other removals of the bark, wliich cause
wounds and canker. Ligatures should
be removed as soon as the fruit is rip-
ened.

LIGHT has a powerful influence over
the health and life of a plant, from the
moment its leaves pierce through the
surface of the soil. If absent, they be-
come yellow, or even white, unless
uncombined hydrogen be present, in
which case they retain their verdure.

Sir H. Davy excluded a cos lettuce
from the light. In six days it was ren-

cleansed. The best glass, if dirty, al-
lows fewer rays of light to pass through
than inferior glass if kept bright.

Solar light is essential to the ripening
of all fruit; it will not ripen in the dark ;
and the greater the light's intensity
and the longer its daily endurance, the
sweeter and the higher is the fruit's
flavour. No fruits are so luscious as
those grown within the tropics, and
the fruits of the temperate zone are ex-
cellent in proportion to the brightness
of its seasons. That light is essential
in causing the colour of the leaves and
other parts of plants, has been noticed
already ; and it aids the ripening pro-
cess of fruit in a similar .manner, to
convert their acid and mucilaginous
constituents into sugar : much carbon
and hydrogen have to be got rid of;
and this is effected, if light be admitted,
by the evolution of carbonic acid nnd
watery vapour. How light operates in
promoting this and other decomposi-
tions, which are effected by the vege-
table organs, is at present a mystery ;
but so it is; and the gardener promotes

dered very pale, and at the end of an- | its access as much as lies within his
other week it was quite white; the | power, by removing overshadowing
growth of the plant was checked, and 1 leaves, by employing the best glass in
the analysis of its leaves showed that , his hot-houses, and by having their in-
they contained more carbonic acid and jterior whitened ; for white surtiices re-

water, but less hydrogen and residua
carbon than an equal weight of green
leaves.

It deserves notice that it has been
proved by the experiments of Dr. Hope
and others, that light from artificial
sources may be concentrated so as to
enable plants to absorb oxygen, and
perfect those elaborations on which
their green colour depends ; and the
lightof the moon has a similar influence.

A similar concentrated light will
make the Pimpernel and other flowers,
which close until sunrise, open their
petals, and rouse from their rest; a
fact, which gives another reason why
plants in rooms frequented at night be-
come weak and exhausted sooner than
those which tlien remain, as nature dic-
tates, unexcited by light.

A deficiency of ligiit decreases the
decomposing power of the leaves. For
this reason the best glass should al-
ways be employed in the sashes of
the hot-house, conservatory, and other
structures of the forcing department.
But the benefit sought for is frustrated,
if that glass be not constantly well

fleet all the rays of light back upon the
objects those surfaces inclose.

Almost every flower has a particular
degree of light requisite for its full ex-
pansion. The blossoms of the pea,
and other papilionaceous plants, spread
out their wings in fine weather to admit
the solar rays, and again close them at
the approach of night. Plants requiring
powerful stimulants, do not expand their
flowers until noon ; whilst some would
be destroyed if compelled to open in
the meridian sun. Of such is the night-
blooming cereus, the flowers of which
speedily droop, even if exposed to the
blaze of light attendant on Indian fes-
tivities.— Princ. of Gardening.

LIGHTFOOTIA. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings. Loam and peat.

LIGUSTRUM. Privet. Three spe-
cies, and more varieties of L. viilgare.
Hardy evergreen and deciduous shrubs.
Cuttings. Common soil. The evergreen
varieties of L. vulgare make a good
fence. See Hedges.

LILACS. Syringa vulgaris and
Persica. Of these very hardy shrubs

L I L

there are many varieties; the white,
red, and blue-flowered ; and of the
Persica, also the parsley-leafed and the
sagc-leufcd. They vnay be raised from
suckers, layers, cuttings, and seed; the
sowing and planting may be made dur-
ing the autumn in any common soil.

LILIUiM. Lily. Thirty-five species,
including the common white lily (L. can-
didum), martagon (L. martagon), tiger
(L. tigrinum), orange (L. aurantium),
bulb-bearing {L. bulbiferum), and their
varieties. Besides those already men-
tioned, the following are especially
worthy of cultivation : —

Bronsiartii.

longiflorum.

Eximium.

Japonicum longiflorum.

Lancifolium album.

punctatura.

roseum.

Orange.

Speciosum rubrum.

Superbum pyramidalis.

Venustiim.

With the exception of L. eximium,
which is a greeu-house bulb, all the
others are hardy.

Out-door Culture. — The proper time
for planting and transplanting them is
in autumn, when their flowers and stalks
decay, which is generally in August and
September, the roots being then at rest
for a short space of time, though the bulbs
taken up at the above season of rest, may
be kept out of ground if necessary, till
October or November; the white lilies,
however, do not succeed, if kept long
out of the earth; and all the others
succeed best when planted again as
soon as possible. Plant them four or
five inches deep, and at good distances
from one another.

None of the sorts require any par-
ticular culture, for they will endure all
weathers, so no more is necessary than
destroying weeds among their stems by
the hoe, and supporting with sticks.

They may all remain undisturbed two
or three years, or longer; nor, indeed,
is it proper to remove these sorts of
bulbs ofiener, for by remaining, they
flower stronger after the first year. It
is, however, proper to take up the bulbs
entirely every three or four years.

Propagation. — By Offsets. — All the
sorts of these roots yield ofi'sets abund-
antly every year, which, when greatly
wanted, may be taken off annually, in

351 L I L

autumn ; otherwise once in two or three
years.

The small offsets should then be
planted in beds a foot asunder, and
three deep, to remain a year or two ;
and the large bulbs should be planted
again in the borders, &c., singly.

By Seed. — This is sometimes prac-
tised, but more particularly for the
martagons, to obtain more varieties. In
antumn, soon after the seed is ripe, sow
it in pots or boxes of rich light earth,
half an inch deep; place the pots in a
slieltorod situation all winter, and the
|)lant will appear in the spring ; in April,
remove the pots to have only the morn-
ing sun all the summer, giving moderate
waterings; in August, transplant the
bulbs into nursery-beds in flat drills an
inch deep, and three or four asunder;
but, as the bulbs will be very small,
scatter the earth and bulbs together in
the drills, and cover them with earth
the above depth ; and having grown h.ere
till August or September following,
transplant into another bed, placing
them eight or nine inches each way
asunder, here to remain to show their
first flowers, then transplant them finally.
— Abercrombie.

Pot-Culture. — The following excel-
lent directions, though applicable es-
pecially to L. speciosum or lancifolium,
are also applicable to others of this
genus. Thoy are the practical directions
of Mr. Groom, the well-known florist,
of Walworth, near London. He says: —

" To cultivate Lilia in the greatest
perfection, they should be removed as
rarely as possible, and only when the
bulbs become too close ; for disturbing
them is most injurious to their grov\th
and flowering."

Bulbs from Stems. — To obtain these
from L. speciosum, and the practice
would, perhaps, succeed with several
others, Mr. Groom placed pieces of
turfy peat round the stem, with room
for finer peat to be placed next the
plant; in this bulbs were very success-
fully obtained.

Potting. — " Grow them in pots of
large size, having plenty of drainage,
and use peat only, with a little fine sand
for the soil. One great point is to keep
the bulbs, particularly the largest, at a
sufficient depth, to allow room for the
stem-fibres to grow freely. When they
require repotting, which should only be
performed whilst the bulbs are dormant.

L I L

352

LIM

they should be turned out of the old
pots, and the crocks should be carefully
removed, so as to avoid injuring the
fibres, or even shaking off the earth;
the bulbs are then to be repotted in a
larger-sized pot, in peat and sand, with
good drainage.

Raising Varieties. — Mr. Groom ob-
serves, that "in hybridizing, care should
be always taken to save seed from those
flowers which have the best shape; for
I believe the form of the future flower
is much more dependent on the kind
from which the seed is saved than upon
that which furnishes the pollen; the
pollen generally gives the colour. It is
also highly desirable that the flower
from which the pollen is taken should

undisturbed, for the purpose of lifting,
for forcing during the winter months.

Forcing. — Pot them in thirty-tvvo-
sized pots, filled to within three and a
half inches of the rim with rich loam,
upon which the roots are closely placed,
and then covered about two inches in
thickness with equal parts of leaf mould
and sand ; they are then well watered,
so as to settle the mould about the roots ;
place them on a shelf near the glass, in
a moist stove, or forcing-house, the
temperature of which may range from
65° to 75^, and take care that the soil
does not become dry. When they are
so far advanced that the plants show
their heads of flowers, remove them into
a warm green-house, still placing them

be darker than that producing the seed ; ! near the glass, until as they advance in
for I have found in such cases the seed- ■ growth they are withdrawn by degrees
linn-s have been much more beautiful j into a shaded part of the house, from
(being frequently spotted or stripedj, j whence they are removed to the draw-
than where I have reversed the process. I ing room as required, their places to be
I have seen this occur in so marked a j immediately filled with others, which
manner in the ranunculus, that I have are similarly treated, and thus an ample
adopted it as a principle, never to take [ succession will be kept up. Care and

pollen from a lighter coloured flower.'
— Gard. Chron.

LILY. Lilium.

LILY-HYACINTH. Scilla Lilia-
hyacinthus.

LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY. Conval-
laria majalis.

Soil and 'Situation. — Clayey loam,
near water, and where the noonday sun
IS intercepted by shade, suits it best.

Propagation. — Mr. D. Watts com-
municated a paper to the Regent's Park
Gardeners' Society, in 1845, from which
the following are extracts: — "Before
planting, dig over and well break the
ground about nine inches deep, then
plant the roots about four inches apart,
all over the surface of the ground, giv-
ing them a gentle press down with the
thumb and finger, and then cover them
about four inches thick with the same
sort of soil. On forming new plantations
of this plant, I select all the flowering
buds from my stock of roots, which I
plant by themselves, but in the same
way as I do the others. If equal quan-
tities of each can be had, there will be
equal quantities of flowers for two or
three successive seasons, after which

attention are requisite in lifting and
selecting the plants for forcing; they
require a minute examination to dis-
tinguish those that will flower from
those that will not, the only diff"erence
being that the buds of the former are
more round and short than those of the
latter." — Florisfs Journ.

LILY-PINK. Aphyllanthes.

LILY-THORN. Catesbea.

LIME. Citras limonum.

LIME is valuable as a manure, for
some one or more of its salts enter into
the composition of every vegetable.
But it is not the lime of every district
that is suitable for the purpose. Some
specimens contain a very large pro-
portion of magnesia, which, absorbing
carbonic acid very slowly, remains in a
caustic state, to the injury of the roots
of the plants, and the diminution of
benefit from the carbonic acid evolved
by the decomposing constituents of the
soil. Neither can the gardener apply
it to all his soils with advantage. Thus,
peat and bog earth are beneficial to the
plants grown upon them by their con-
taining gallic and other acida which lime
removes.

To garden soil of the usual staple

they should be all taken up, the roots I about fifty bushels of lime per acre is a
divided, and replanted in the same way. I sufficient quantity. If the soil be clayey
At the time of replanting, it will be the quantity may be doubled. A very
requisite to leave a sufficient quantity | excellent manure is formed by mixing

LIM

353

LIP

one bushel of salt with every two bush-
els ot'lime.

Lime cannot be applied to the soil
too fresh from the kiln; for if allowed
to absorb carbonic acid from the air, it
is rapidly converted into chalk.

" It is astonishing how ignorantly
neglectful are the cultivators of the
soil, when their crops are devastated
by the slug, not to dress them so as to
render the surface of the soil quite
white, during the promise of a few
days' dry weather, with caustic lime.
It is instant destruction to every slug
it falls upon; and those that it misses
are destroyed by their coming in con-
tact with it when moving in search of
food.

" It is a common practice to burn
couch-grass, docks, gorse, and other
vegetables, which are very retentive
of life, or slow in decay; a more une-
conomical, unscientific method of re-
ducins to a state beneficial to the land

mode of proceeding is to take forty
gallons of clean water, and, half an
hour before using, put one peck of
fresh-slacked lime into it. As soon as
it is clear it is fit for use.

" A watering-pot containing four gal-
lons will water a bed of four feet by
thirty feet, or rows of cauliflowers,
cabbages, &c., of double the length."
— Gard. Chron.

LIMNANTHES Douglasii. Hardy
annual trailer. Seed. Sandy loam and
shady situation.

LIMNOCHARIS. Two species.
Stove perennial aquatics. Seed and
runners. Water.

LIMONIA. Five species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs, except L. scan-
dens, which is a climber. Cuttings.
Rich light loam and peat.

LINANTHUS dichotonus. Hardy
annual. Seed. Common soil.

LINARIA. Seventy-five species.
Hardv annual trailers, and herbaceous

of which they were the refuse, cannot j and evergreen shrubs, except L. fruc-

be devised. In breaking up heaths,
such exuva; are very abundant; but, in
all cases, if the weeds, leaves, &c.,
were conveyed to a hole or pit, and,
with every single horse-load, and with
barrow-loads in proportion, a bushel of
salt and a half bushel of lime were in-
corporated, it would in a few months
form a mass of decayed compost of the
most lertilizing quality; the lime re-
taining many of the gases evolved dur-

ticans, and L. scoparia, which are
green-house evergreen shrubs. Seed
or cuttings. Sandy loam.

LINCONIA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Sandy peat.

LINDERNIA pyxidaria. Hardy an-
nual. Seed. Common soil.

LINDLEYA mespiloides . Half-har-
dy evergreen shrub. Cuttings, and
grafts on the common thorn and larger

ing the putrefaction of the vegetable cotoneasters. Sandy loam, mixed with

matter, and the salt combining with | calcareous rubbish.

the lime to destroy noxious animals, j LINDS^l^^A. Five species. Stove

which might form a nidus in the mass. ! and green-house ferns. Division and

By this plan nearly all the carbona- I seed. Sandy loam and peat.

ceous matters of the refuse vegetables | LINN.^A borealis. Hardy evergreen

are retained ; by burning, nearly all of j trailer. Division. Shaded peat soil.

LINUM. Fifty-one species. Chiefly
hardy herbaceous and annuals; a few

them are dissipated." — Principles of
Gardening

Lime rubbish is the old mortar and green-house evergreen shrubs. Seed,
plaster obtained when brick buildings division, and cuttings. Sandy loam
are pulled down. It is an excellent ' and a little peat

manure, abounding with the salts of
potash and lime. It should be reduced
to powder before spreading and digging
in.

LIME, or LINDEN-TREE. Tilia.

LIME-WATER. "As water can
hold only a certain quantity of lime in
solution, it is immaterial how much of
that substance you mix with it. The
mixture should be well stirred, and
should be left until it has become clear,
when it will be fit for use. The best
23

LION'S-EAR. Leonatis.

LION'S-FOOT. Leontopodium.

LION'S-TAIL. Leonotis leonurus.

LIPARIA spharica. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Young cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat. Not too much
water.

LIPARIS. Fifteen species. Stove
epiphytes and orchids. All propagated
by offsets. Epiphytes in peat and pot-
sherds ; terrestrial orchids in sandy peat
and sandy loam.

LIP

354

LIS

LIPOSTOMA campanuli flora. Stove
evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

LIPPIA. Tvv'o species. Stove. L.
dulcis, herbaceous; L. purpurea, ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Rich liglit soil.
LIQUIDAMBAR. Two species.
Hardy deciduous trees. Seed and cut-
tings. Common soil.

LIQUID-MANURE is the most ad-
vantageous form in which fertilizers
can be applied by the gardener to his
crops. It is the most economical, most
prompt, and most efficient mode. The
manure is presented to the roots in one
of the only forms in which the roots
can imbibe food, and the manure is
spread regularly through the texture of
the soil. If, instead of digging in sta-
ble-manure, each crop was watered
occasionally with liquid-manure, the
produce would be finer and more
abundant.

My brother, Mr. Cuthbert Johnson,
says, in his excellent work on " Fer-
tilizers:"—

" I have often employed with decided
effect, in my own garden, for vines,
peach, and standard apple-trees, liquid-
manure, prepared either by mixing one
part by weight jf cow-dung with four
parts of water, or the collected drain-
age of the stable and cow-house. It
has been found advantageous to plants
cultivated in stoves to apply even a
liquid-manure, composed of six quarts
of soot to a hogshead of water; and al-
though this is a very unchemical mix-
ture, yet it has been found by Mr.
Robertson to be peculiarly grateful and
nourishing to pines, causing them to
assume an unusually deep healthy
green ; and, for stoved mulberry, vine,
peach, and other plants, the late Mr.
Knight, of Downton, employed a liquid-
manure, composed of one part of the
dung of domestic poultry and four to
ten parts of water, with the most excel-
lent result." — Johnson on Fertilizers.

Guano Liquid Manure. — Ten gallons
of water will readily dissolve, or keep
suspended in a state of minute division,
about 50 lbs. weight of guano. When
applied to plants, not more than five
ounces should be added to that quantity
of water. If it be made stronger, it
injures or kills the plants to which it is
applied.

SAeep's-dMng', ifemploved for making

liquid manure, should be a peck to thir-
ty gallons.

When cow-dung is used, boiling wa-
ter should be first poured upon it, as it
is apt to be full of destructive larvai.

Sulphate of Ammonia, and any other
salt of ammonia, must not be used more
than a quarter of an ounce to each gal-
lon.

LIQUORICE. Glycyrrhiza glabra,
is only admitted into the garden for ils
pharmaceutical properties.

Soil and Situation. — It thrives best
in a rich light soil, two or three feet
deep, which should be trenched com-
pletely to the bottom before planting.
W'hen manure is added, it should be
regularly mixed throughout the texture
of the soil. In shallow or poor ground
it will not succeed: the situation can-
not be too open.

Time and Mode of Planting. — It is
propagated by cuttings of the side-roots,
which spring from the crown of the
plants, and run horizontally just beneath
the surface, which may be planted in
January, February, or early in March.
Each set should be about two inches
beneath the surface. The only cultiva-
tion they require is to be frequently
hoed, to keep them clear of weeds
throughout their growth ; and in autumn
the decayed stalks to be cut down, and
the earth stirred between the rows.

The roots are not fit for use until of
three or four years' growth. The sea-
son for taking them up is December,
January, or February. A trench must
be dug regularly along each row, quite
down to the extremity of the principal
roots, which descend two feet and
more.

LIRIODENDRON tulipifera, and one
variety L. T. obtusifolia. Hardy decidu-
ous tree. Seed. Rich light loam.

LISIANTHUS. Eight species. Stove
plants, evergreen, herbaceous, and an-
nual. Seed or cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

L. Russellianus is a half-hardy bien-
nial. Mr. Cuthill, of Denmark Hill,
near London, is its most successful cul-
tivator; and the directions given by
him, with some other suggestions, arc
as follow : —

Sow the first week of March in a
forty-eight pot. Fill the pot very firmly
with a compost of loam, and leaf-mould
or peat, in equal proportions, mixed
with a little sand ; over the compost

L I S

355

LOA

put half an inch in depth of damp sand,
and on this, being first pressed flat, the
seed is to be sown, and covered with a
little dry river-sand. Cover the top of
the pot with a piece of glass, and keep
in a temperature ot 70^. Mever water
on the top, but keep in a pan con-
stantly supplied with water. When the
seedlings arc three weeks old, prick
out singly into sixties: the compost as
before, with plenty of drainage. When
established give water abundantly, both
in the pans and over the foliage, and
keep in a temperature of about 80='.
In August top them at every joint, and
six weeks after shift into forty-eights.
Give water now only in pans — for the
surface of the earth must be kept dry —
once a fortnight in dry weather, else
once a month; and retain the plants
through the winter in a temperature be-
tween 503 and qo^. As February closes
remove them to a temperature of about
75", moving them, as soon as vegeta-
tion is renewed, into eights. They now
require a high temperature, about 80''
or So*-', abundance of water, and some
liquid-manure. If kept in a pit during
the winter, they must not at first, when
moved into a house, be exposed to the
sun's rays. They will bloom in July,
and continue in flower two or three
months, if supplied abundantly with
water or liquid manure. Dryness of
soil occasions a speedy fall of the blos-
soms.— Johnson''s Gardener's Almanack.
.LISSANTHE. Seven species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings in spring. Sandy peat. Kepot
into larger pots before moving from
green-house in summer.

LISSOCHILUS roseus. Stove epi-
phvte. Offsets. Peat and potsherds.

LISTS, for fiistening trees against
walls, are usually merely shreds ol"
woollen cloth cut into lengths varying
from two to four inches. Strips of very
thin sheet-lead are preferable as not
harbouring insects; and, if there be
any truth in electricity being beneficial
to growing plants, lead thus employed
should improve their growth ; for, with
the nails, it forms a gentle galvanic
battery. Wires and twine have been
recommended to tie the branches to the
walls; but the process is tedious, and
cuts are inflicted, inducing gum and
canker. Shreds of a black, blue, or red
colour look best, harmonizing with that
of the leaves. If old lists are re-em-

ployed they should be previously boiled
to destroy the larvae of insects.

LITHOSPERMUM. Fifteen species.
Chiefly hardy, herbaceous, and ever-
green perennials. L.dispernum and L.
tenuifiorum are annuals. L. dislichum,
and L. scabrum arc green-house herba-
ceous. Seed or cuttings. Light calca-
reous soil.

LITT.^^A geminiflora. Green-house
evergreen perennial. Suckers. Sandy
loam.

LIVISTONIA. Two species. Stove
palms. Seed. Sandy loam.

LOAM is a very indefinite term: al-
most every cultivator of the soil asso-
ciates with it a diff"erent explanation.
In some parts of England clay is so
called, and in others it is employed to
designate brick-earth! As usually em-
ployed, it really is only synonymous
with the word soil ; for it has to be
qualified by the terms turfy, sandy,
clayey, and chalky, just as turf, sand,
clay, or chalk predominate. Then,
what is hazel loam ? Why, no other
than a rich friable soil, having a dark
brown or hazel colour, owing to the
[iredominance of decaying vegetable
matters. Before long, we hope to see
determined how much silica is to be
understood as existing in a loam termed
sandy, and how much alumina in that
which is correctly termed clayey.

The following is the analysis of a
hazel loam : —

Silica and quartz sand . . 95.0

Alumina 3.0

Vegetable matters . . . 5.0

Oxide of iron 1.5

Lime, soda, oxide of manganese 0.25
Gypsum, phosphate of lime,) ^ g^

and ciiinuion salt . . J
Such a loam is useful to render light
soils more retentive, and heavy soils
more porous; but, for this purpose,
must be applied at the rate of 100 tons
per acre.

Maiden loam is soil taken from' the
surface of a pasture.

LOASA. Nine species. Chiefly hardy
and green-house annuals. L. incana is
a green-house evergreen trailer. Seed.
Light soil. L. placei is a dangerous
stinging plant. Mr. Halliday, gardener
at Elmliam Hall, gives these directions
for cultivating : —

"L. lateritia. — Plants of this, saved
from seeds sown in the spring, kept in
pots during the summer, shifted twice

LO A

356

LOQ

or oflener in the course of the autumn,
so as to require a twenty-four sized pot
about March, make good green-house
plants for the same season. Planted
out at the same time as other naif-
hardies, in a shaded situation, it also
makes a good bed for the flower-garden,

green tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam and
peat. Little water.

LOPHOSPERMUM. Three species.
Half-hardy evergreen climbers. Cut-
tings. Rich light loam.

LOPIMIA malacophylla. Stove ever-
green shrub. Young cuttings. Rich

putting a stirt", branchy pea-stake to ! light soil.

each plant for it to run upon. But it LOQ U AT. Eriohotrya japonica.

best unfolds its beauty upon a north The following are the best directions

wall, planted out in a rich, light soil,

with four or more pieces of line to

each plant for the shoots to climb." —

Card. Chron.

LOAVINCt. See Heading.

LOBELIA. Eighty-four species, i be rejected if they have not been graft-
Chiefly hardy and green-house herba- ed on the common mespilus gcrmanica,
ceous plants. Some, however, are an- , or some other nearly allied genius.'*

ve have for its cultivation: —

" Light sandy loam, which is na-
turally rich, suits the loquat well.
Young plants may be purchased of the
London nurserymen ; but they should

nual, and others require the heat of a |

They may be propagated by seeds

stove. Herbaceous are propagated by ' or layers ; but if so raised, they must be
division; shrubby by cuttings; annuals afterwards grafted. They may be plant-

Sandy loam and peat suit
See Animal

by seed,
them all.

LOBSTER-SHELLS
Matters.

LOCUST-TREE. Hymenma.

LODDIGESIA oxalidifolia. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

LOMATIA. Five species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sand
and peat.

LONCHITES. Two species. Stove
ferns. Division. Turfy loam and peat.

LONCHOCARPUS. Nine species.
Stove evergreen trees. Young cuttings.
Loam and peat.

ed six or eight feet apart in the house ;
but when they become too crowded
every alternate plant should be re-
moved on small hillocks of earth cor-
responding with the size of the plants,
which, as they advance in growth, may,
trom time to time, have fresh earth
added to their roots until the border is
filled level. Care must be taken, whilst
the plants are young, to make them
produce the requisite quantity of
branches close to the graft, by shorten-
ing the shoots, or by pinching off the
tips.

" The loquat is half-hardy ; and it
will therefore be necessary to keep a

LONGCHAMPSIA capiUifoUa. little fire in the house in winter, to p're-

Hardy annual. Seed

LONDON-PRIDE
brosa.

LONICERA. Honeysuckle

Common soil.

vent the frost from injuring the plants.
Saxifraga um- \ The trees bloom naturally at that sea-
son ; but in this respect are almost at
Eigh- i the command of the gardener. They

teen species. Hardy deciduous shrubs may be forced into bloom in autumn ;

and twiners. Cuttings in autumn. Com-
mon soil.

LOOKING-GLASS TREE. Heri-
tiera.

LOOSESTRIFE. Lysimachia.

LOPEZIA. Six species. Hardy an-
nuals and green-house biennials. All
require to be raised in a hot-bed ; the
annuals to be removed to a south
border, and the others to the green-
house.

LOPHANTHUS. Five species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division
and cuttings. Common soil.

LOPHIOLA aurea. Hardy herbace-
ous. Division. Damp peat soil.

LOPHIRA africana. Stove ever-

or, by keeping the house very cool in
I winter, their blooming may be retarded
, until spring.

I " The temperature, during the grow-
j ing seasons, may correspond with that
I which is given to the peach when
forced.

" When the fruit is gathered, more air
should be admitted into the house. In
autumn the sashes might be entirely re-
moved, for a short time, so long as there
is no danger of frost.

" Though a separate house is highly
desirable to cultivate the loquat in, it
by no means follows that it will not
grow and fruit elsewhere. If it can be
accommodated with ^the back-wall of a

LOR

357

LUI

pine or plant-stove, with a border of
two or three I'eet in breadth to grow in,
it will succeed remarkably well. It is '
far from being a tender tree, or one
difficult to manage, being of a robust,
healthy habit, and requiring but little
attention.

" Some people eat the fruit before it is
quite ripe, at which period it has an
agreeable acid flavour; but to obtain a
luscious, melting, highly-flavoured fruit,
it should hang on the trees until some-
what shrivelled. It is probable that the
fruit would ripen on the back-wall of
some green-house, if it had plenty of
light and air ; at all events it is worth a
trial." — Gard. Ch}-on.

LORD ANSON'S PEA. Lathyrus]
magcllanuits.

LOTE. Zizyphus lotus. \

LOTUS. Forty species. Mostly ,
hardy and half-hardy annual and peren-
nial trailers. Perennials are increased
by cuttings ; and the annuals by seed,
in any light soil.

LOUREA. Two species. Stove bi-
ennials. Seed. Light rich loam. |

LOUSEWORT. Pedicular is. \

LOUSE. See Aphis. \

LOVE-APPLE. Lycopersicon escu-
lentuni. See Tomato. '

LOVE-LIES-BLEEDING, Amaran-\
thus caudalus.

LOWEA berberrifolia. Half-hardy
deciduous shrub. Seed and layers;
sandy loam and peat. Common salt
applied occasionally is beneficial. j

LOZOTiENIA rosaria, is a small
moth, of which the caterpillar feeds
upon the leaves of the rose tree. Mr.
Curtis says, that — " The eggs are laid
in the summer or autumn, and hatch
with the opening leaves ; and the little
caterpillar begins at once to form a re-
sidence l)y drawing two or more leaflets
together, on which it feeds. This ope-
ration soon points out where the cater-
pillar is, and the best method wliich
we know of getting rid of it, is hand-
picking, which should be practised as
soon as the operation of the caterpillar
becomes visible." — Gard. Chron.

LVCV LI A gratissima. Green-house
evergreen shrub. i

Propagation by Cuttings. — " In pro-
pagating this take a piece of light peat
and break it quite hue, add about one-
third of fine silver sand, mix this well
together, and taking some small thumb
pots, place one crock at the bottom of

each pot, and fill them with the above
compost, about three parts full, press
this down in the centre of the pot, and
fill the remainder of the pot with silver
sand ; give them a good watering to
settle the cuttings, then take a large
pot and fill it half full of draining, and
the remainder with sand or gravel, and
then plunge four of the little pots in
this large one, and place a bell-glass
over them. Plunge in bottom-heat, and
in about a month the cuttings are rooted
and fit for potting off into small sixty-
pots ; keep them close for about a week
or so."

Grafting. — Mr. Beaton grafts the
Luculia upon stocks of Burchellia ca-
pensis. — Gard. Chron.

After-Culture. — "Drainage is abso-
lutely indispensable for JmcuHq. Dur-
ing the summer and early autumnal
months water should be freely supplied,
and the under surface of the leaves, as
well as the whole plant, repeatedly
washed with the fine rose of the syringe.
The general waterings must also be
gradually diminished in September, and
afterwards administered very sparingly,
for the fine fibrous roots are easily in-
jured by too much moisture. It requires
a much cooler treatment than it gene-
rally receives, and should never be
grown in a pot when it can be planted
out in a conservatory." — Gard. Chron.

" It is not inclined to grow naturally,
and therefore should not be stimulated
in the spring and early summer. During
that period it sliould be kept in a green-
house : towards the end of May and
the beginning of June, it should be
planted out in a warm place rather
sheltered t'rom the sun. In August or
September it should be taken up and
repotted, and placed in a vinery or cool
hot-house. It will then grow vigorous-
ly, and form its head of blossoms,
which are both beautiful and fragrant,
and expand during the greater part of
the winter. It may be kept in the
drawing room without injury till it has
done flowering, and should then be re-
turned to the green-house." — Gard.
Chron.

LUCUMA. Four species. Stove
evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Rich
sandy loam.

LUHEA paninilata. Stove ever-
green climber. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

L U I S I A alpina. Stove epiphyte.

LUM

358

LYO

Lateral shoots, six inches long; attached either in patches in the different corn-
to blocks of charred wood. ; partments as already observed, for the
LUMNITZERA moschata, a green- plants to remain where sowed ; or may
house annual ; and L. <enu(^ora, a stove ; be sowed in beds in drills for trans-
herbaceous perennial. The first by plantation ; but as the plants generally
seed, the second by division. Common | send their roots deep into the ground,

soil.

LUNARIA. Honesty. Two species.
Hardy biennial and perennial. Seed.
Common shaded soil.

LUNGWORT. Pnlmonaria.

LUPINUS. Lupine. Fifty-seven
species. Chiefly hardy annual and herb-
aceous plants. Of these the propagation
is effected by seed in the open ground
in March, April, and May, observing
that as too copious moisture is apt to
rot the seed, they should not be sowed

they generally succeed best when per-
mitted to remain where raised. — Aber-
cromhie.

LUXEMBURGIA ciliosa. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light rich
loam.

LYCASTE. Four species. Stove
epiphyte. Off"sets. Peat and pot-
sherds.

LYCHNIS. Twenty species. Hardy
herbaceous, except L. ccelirosa and L.
fcithago, which are annuals. Seed or

earlier than the middle or latter end of divisions, the latter to be annually re-

March, except on very dry, warm soils.
The annual sorts should be sowed at I

peated. Light rich loam.

LYCIUM. Sixteen species. Hardy

once in the places where the plants are 1 and half-hardy deciduous and ever-
to flower, for they d6 not succeed by green shrubs and climbers. Cuttings.

transplantation, and to have a succes-
sion of bloom, about three or four dif-
ferent sowings may be necessary from i
about the middle or latter end of March
until June, especially the yellow sort,
whose bloom is rather of short dura-
tion; observinsj to sow all the sorts in

Light loam.

LYCOPERSICON. Nine spe-
cies. Hardy annuals, except L. peru-
vianum, which is a stove herbaceous
perennial. See Love-Apple.

LYON, John. Mr. Lyon was born
in Scotland, and emigrated to this coun-

patches, four, five, or six seeds in each, try about the commencement oftlie pre-
near an inch deep, and when the plants sent century. He shortly thereafter
come up, leave only three of the best [entered into the employ of the late
of them, though of the large kind one \Vm. Hamilton, and, for several years,
or two may be sufficient in each place, superintended his choice collection of
When large quantities are required for, exotic plants at the "Woodlands." Mr.
nosegays to supply the markets, &c., as Lyon subsequently became a regular
practised about London with the yellow! collector of American plants and seeds
sweet scented sort, they may be sowed I for exportation, and in the prosecution
in rows in beds, drilling them in an inch ' of his object made frequent excursions
deep, allowing a foot between the rows, i to the south and west. His collections
Keep them clean from weeds, which is i were usually congregated at the Nur-
all the culture they require: the first i sery grounds of his friends at Phila-
sown plants will furnish plenty of ripe | delphia, and, when properly prepared,
seed. If some seeds are sowed in au- ] were by him taken to Europe. He
tumn, in September, in a warm dry situ- made a number of trips to England,
ation, the plants will come up, and i each tmie carrying with him large lots
often stand the winter tolerably well, of our native plants, which met with

and flower early the following year
or, if some are sowed in pots, especial-
ly the giant sort, comprising the Large
Blue, and the Rose Lupine, which in
wet autumns ripen seed but indifferent-
ly, so that by placing the pots in a gar-
den frame, to haveoccasional protection
from hard frost, they will flower early
in the following summer, so as to per-
fect seeds before they are attacked by
the autumnal rains.

ready sale at liberal prices. Thirty or
forty years ago the communication with
Europe was not so trifling a matter as
at present, and a journey of some thou-
sand miles in search of floral treasures,
and their transportation across the At-
lantic, was quite an event in the horti-
cultural world. ]Mr. Lyon was a man
of cultivated mind, and, to a good plain
education, such as most of his country-
men receive, he had added the results

The perennial sort may be sowed of extensive reading and observation.

L YO

359

MAG

He died about the year 1S16, whilst on \ the art, of which it treated, was in the
a collecting journey in Tennessee, from ' "
fever contracted by exposure whilst
travelling on horseback,

LYON I A. Six species. Hardy
evergreen shrubs. Layers and seed.
Peat.

LYONSIA straminea. Stove ever-
green twiner. Cuttings. Loam and peat.
L Y S I M A C 11 1 A . Twenty spe-
cies. Hardy herbaceous perennials and
annuals, except L.atropurpurea and L.
maculata, which require a green-house.
L. thyrsijlora is an aquatic. Annuals
by seed ; others by division. Common
soil.

LYSINEMA. Five species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy peat.

LYTHRUM. Eleven species. Hardy
herbaceous and annuals. Division or
seed. Common soil.

MABA buxifolia, a stove evergreen
shrub, .Tud M. laurina, a green-house
evergreen trailer. Ripe cuttings. Loam
and peat.

MACLEANIA longiflora. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light
loam.

M.'i.CLEAYA cordata. Hardy herb-
aceous perennial. Division, and seeds.
Rich mould.

MACLURA. Three species. M.
aurantiaca is a hardy deciduous tree ;
the two others, stove evergreen trees.
Ripe cuttings. Turfy loam and peat.
M. aurantiaca, the Osage Orange, is
admirably adapted for hedges : it is ot
rapid growth, perfectly hardy as far
north as Pennsylvania, is not subject to
disease, is armed with sharp spines
which pain on puncture, and, abound-
ing in acrid juice, is not browsed by cat

United States much needed. He was
said to have been a man of liberal edu-
cation, and an ardent admirer of horti-
culture. It is probable his love for it
led to his emt)arking in the sale of
plants and seeds as a profession. In
connection with his seed-store, Mr. M.
established a Nursery near the city, and
concentrated many interesting speci-
mens on his trrouiuls. They were, at a
later day, under the management of his
son, but are now, we believe, no longer
cultivated as a Nursery.

MACRADENIA. Three species.
Stove orchids. Division. Wood.

MACROCNEMUM. Two species.
Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

M A C R 0 P O D I U M laciniatum.
A hardy annual, increased by seeds; and
M. nivale, a hardy herbaceous peren-
nial, increased by cuttings. A light
rich soil suits them both.

M A C R O T Y S racemosa. Hardy
herbaceous perennial. Division. Rich
soil.

MADAGASCAR NUTMEG. Aga-
thophyllum.

MAD.\GASCAR POTATO. Solamim
anguivi.

MAD-APPLE. Solanum insanum.
MADDER. Rubia.
MADIA. Two species. Hardy an-
nuals. Seeds. Common soil.
MADWORT. Alyssum.
M.ESA. Five species. Stove ever-
green shrubs or trees. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

MAGNOLIA. Fourteen species.
They are chiefly hardy deciduous trees,
but M. grandiflora, and its varieties,
require protection in Pennsylvania, in

tie. With these qualities it is, we think,} severe winters, especially if the soil be

destined to be extensively used as a
hedge plant.

M'MAHON, Bernard, was a native

not thoroughly drained. The next most
worthy of cultivation are M. acuminata,
M. macrophylla, M. glauca, and M. pur-

of Ireland. Implicated in thedisastrous purea.

rebellion of "98, he fled to this country,
and was for some years connected with
a political newspaper of Philadelphia.
Our purpose is, however, to refer to Mr.

Planting. — The best season for plant-
ing all the species is early in spring,
though as those sorts which are in pots
may be turned out with the ball of

M'Mahon as associated with the subject earth about their roots, they may be
of this work. Mr. M. ultimately esta- 1 occasionally transplanted in October or
blished himself as a Nursery and Seeds- beginning of November. Observe, as
man in that city, and published an ex- they are rather of a tender nature in
cellent book on gardening, the " Ame- their younger growth, it is proper to
rican Gardener's Calendar," which was allot them a sheltered sunny situation,
favourably received, and opportunely and dry soil ; and all of them should he
issued, for at that time information on I stationed in the most conspicuous point

MAG

360

MAN

of view, and not too closely crowded | grow well in any rich soil. The hardy

with shrubs of inferior merit

MAGPIE MOTH. See Abraxas.

MAHERNIA. Thirteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings taken off at a joint. Loam and
sandy peat.

MAHONIA. Four species. Hardy
or half-hardy evergreen shrubs. M.
nervosa is deciduous. Layers or ripe
cuttings. Sand, peat, and loam.

MAIDEN HAIR. Passifiora adian-
tum, and Adiantum capillus veneris,

ifC.

MAIDEN-HAIR TREE. Salishuria
adiantifoUa.

MAIDEN TREE is a seedling tree
which has not been grafted.

The time which elapses before seed-
lings attain a bearing age is very vari-
ous. The pear requires from twelve to
eighteen years ; the apple five to thir-
teen ; plum and cherry four to five;
vine three to four ; raspberry two ; and
the strawberry one.

MAJORANA. Four species. Half-
hardy evergreen shrubs. M. hortensis
a hardy annual. Slips or cuttings.
They succeed well in a sandy soil and
a dry situation.

MALABAR LEAF. Cinnamomum
Malabatrum.

MALABAR NIGHTSHADE. Ba-
sclla.

MALABAR NUT. Justicia adha-
toda.

MALABAR ROSE. Hibiscus Rosa
Malabarica.

MALACHODENDRON ovatum.
Hardy deciduous tree. Layers or ripe
cuttings. Peat and loam.

MALAY APPLE. Jambosa malac-
censis.

MALASIS paludosa. Hardy orchid.
Division. Sandy peat.

MALESHERBIA. Two species,
(ireen-house annuals. Seeds. Sandy
loam.

MALFORMATION. See Deformity.

MALLOW. Malva.

MALOPE. Two species. Hardy
annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

MALPIGHIA. Fourteen species.
Stove evergreen shrubs or trees. Ripe
cuttings. Light soil.

MALT DUST. See Vegetable Ma-
nures.

MALVA. Mallow. Forty-eight spe-
cies. The stove and green-house ever-
green shrubs increase by cuttings, and

and half-hardy herbaceous kinds
crease by division or by seeds. The
hardy annuals by seeds, and common
soil.

MALVAVISCUS. Three siSecies.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
, Loam and peat.

MAMMEA americana. Stove ever-
j green fruit tree. Ripe cuttings. Sandy
loam.

I MAMESTRA. M. brassica, M. ole-
racea. The whole cabbage tribe are
subject to the attacks of the caterpillars
of these moths, known as the Cabbage
and White -line Brown- eyed Mollis.
These appear in June or May. The
Cabbage Moth is light brown, with wavy
marked wings; its caterpillar is green
stained with grey, with a dark line
down the back. The White-line Moth is
rusty brown, and its upper wings wliite
margined, with an orange coloured spot
near it; caterpillar brownish. Hand-
picking or lime dust are the only reme-
dies.— Curtis.

MAMMILLARIA. Seventy- eight
species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Off-
sets. Sandy peat.

MANDARIN ORANGE. Citrus no-
bilis.

MANETTIA. Four species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Young cuttings.
Loam and peat.

MANGIFERA. Mango Tree. Two
species. Stove evergreen tropical fruit
trees. Ripe cuttings, or fresh seeds
imported from the places of their natural
growth. Turfy sandy loam, or loam
and peat. The mango thrives best in a
temperature of 60^. It does not require
bottom heat. Leaf-mould is a good
manure. It must not be pruned, for
excessive bleeding always follows.

MANGO GINGER. Curcuma amada.

MANGO TREE. See Mangifera.

MANICARIA saccifera. A tine palm
tree. Seeds. Rich loam.

MANNA. Alhagi.

MANNA ASH. Ornus rotundijolia.

MANULEA. Eleven species
Chiefly green-house annuals and ever-
green shrubs, or stove herbaceous per-
ennials. Cuttings or seeds. Peat and
sand, or vegetable mould.

MANURES. Manures are animal,
vegetable and mineral ; they directly
assist the growth of plants, first, by
entering into their composition ; second-
ly, by absorbing and retaining moisture

MAN

361

MAN

from the atmosphere ; thirdly, by ab-
sorbing the gases of the atmosphere;
fourthly, by stimulating the vascular
system of the plants. Manures approxi-
mately assist vegetation, first, by kill-
ing predatory vermin and weeds ; se-
condly, by promoting the decomposition
of stubborn organic remains in the soil ;
thirdly, by protecting incumbent plants
from violent changes of temperature.

All these properties seldom if ever
occur in one species of manure, but
each is usually particularized by pos-
sessing one or more in a superior de-
gree. That is the most generally appli-
cable manure, which is composed of
matters essential to the growth of plants:
the chief of these are carbon, hydrogen,
and oxygen; therefore all animal and
vegetable substances are excellent ma-
nures. It would evidently be of great
benefit, if every plant could be manured
with the decaying parts of its own spe-
cies; tiie ancients made this a particular
object. We read that those vines were
the most fruitful, which were manured
with their own leaves and prunings, and
the skins of expressed grapes. This
rule might be so far followed, as that
the stems of potatoes, peas, &c., could
be dug respectively into the compart-
ments where those crops are intended
to be grown in the following year.

Of the less general manures which
benefit plants by entering into their
composition, a few words will suftice.
Sulphate of lime (gypsum) is a compo-
nent of clover, lucerne, turnips, &c.;
hence it has been applied with benefit
to these crops on such soils as did not
already contain it. Bones broken small
have lately become a very general ma-
nure; their utility is easily accounted
for. The bones of oxen contain about
fifty per cent, of gelatine, which is
soluble in water, and rapidly becomes
putrescent. The remainder is chiefly
phosphate and carbonate of lime, salts
which are components of wheat, rve,
barley, oats, peas, beans, vines, cucum-
bers, potatoes, garlic, onions, truffles,
&c.

Common salt also is employed as a
manure, and is beneficial, partly in con-
sequence of entering into the constitu-
tion of plants.

Some manures ameliorate a soil by
absorbing moisture from theatmosphere.
This property is at least as beneficial to
ground that is aluminous as to that

which is siliceous; for it is equally use-
less to either during such periods of the
year as are characterized by a plentiful
deposition of rain; but in the drought
of summer, when moisture is much
wanting to plants, it is beneficial to
both; in very dry seasons it is even
of greater importance to clayey than
to light soils ; for vegetation on the
former suffers more from long continued
drought than on the latter, inasmuch as
that moisture being equally exhaled
from each, the surface of the clayey
soil becomes caked and impervious to
air, the only grand source of compensa-
tory moisture that is available to the
languishing plants, and which is more
open to those which grow on light, and,
consequently, more pervious soils.

The following table of the compara-
tive absorbent powers of many manures,
is extracted chiefly from An Essay on
the Use of Salt in Agriculture, by Mr.
Cuthbert Johnson.

Parts.
Horse-dung evaporated pre-^
viously to dryness, at a |
temperature of 100^, ab- 1
sorbed during an exposure f"
of three hours to air satu- \
rated with moisture at 62'^ J
Putrefied tanners' bark,~
under similar circum-
stances (66') ....
Unputrefied tanners' bark

Cowdung 130

Pig dung 120

Sheep dung 81

Pigeon dung oO

Refuse marine salt (GC^) . . 49i

. Soot (68°) 36

Burnt clay 29

The richest soil (in one hour) 23

Coal ashes 14

Lime (part carbonate) . . 11
Crushed rock salt .... 10

Gypsum 9

Ciialk 4

The absorbing power of a manure is
much influenced by the state in which
it is presented to the atmosphere, lii
a finely divided state mere capillary at-
traction assists it; hence, the import-
ance of keeping the soil frequently
stirred by hoeing, &c. But a mere
mass of cotton, by means of capillary
attraction, will absorb moisture from the
air, yet it parts with it at a very slight
elevation of temperature : it is of im-
portance therefore to ascertain whiuli

145

145
115

MAN

363

MAN

are the manures that not only absorb
but retain moisture powerfully. The
following results of my experiments
throw some light on this point : —
Pig dung evaporated to dry-~
ness at a temperature of
106°, and then moistened
with six parts of water, ^ 135'
required for being reduced
to dryness again, at the
above temperature i

Horse-dung under similar )
circumstances i

90

Common sail 75

Soot 75

Rich soil 32

Chalk 29

Poor soil (siliceous) .... 23

Gypsum 18

These experiments point out a cri-
terion by which we easily ascertain the
comparative richness of any two given
soils or manures ; the most fertile will
be most absorbent and retentive.

Some manures increase the growth
and vigour of plants by stimulating their
absorbent and assimilating organs.

which by a few hours' exposure to the
air subsides into a gray or black hue.
The first colour appears to arise from
the oxyde of iron which all soils con-
tain, being in the state of the red or
protoxide; by absorbing more oxygen
during the exposure, it is converted
into the black or peroxide. Hence one
of the benefits of frequently stirring
soils ; the roots of incumbent plants
abstract the extra dose of oxygen, and
reconvert it to the protoxide. Coal
ashes, in common with all carbona-
ceous matters, have the power of
strongly attracting oxygen. Every gar-
dener may have observed how rapidly
a bright spade of iron left foul with
coal ashes, becomes covered with rust,
or red oxide.

All animal and vegetable manures
absorb oxygen from the air during pu-
trefaction ? If it be required of what
benefit this property is to plants, since
the gases are freely presented to them
in the atmosphere, it admits the ready
answer, that they enjoy the additional
quantity which is thus collected to the

The stimulating powers of excremen- , vicinity of their roots, without the lat-
titious manures arise from the salts of ter source being diminished; and that

ammonia they contain.

i plants are benefited by such additional

Sir H. Davy found vegetation assisted , application to their radiculae has been
by solutions of muriate of ammonia (sal- , proved by the experiments of Mr. Hill.

ammoniac), carbonate of ammonia (vol
atile salt), and acetate of ammonia.
Night soil, one of the most beneficial
of manures, surpasses all others in the
abundance of its ammoniacal consti-
tuents in the proportion of three to one,

The question may also be asked,
whether the roots have the power to
extract the oxygen from its combina-
tion ? That they have this power ad-
mits of little doubt, since Saussure
found that they were able to extract

It may be observed, that the nearer j various saline bodies from their combi-
any animal approaches to man in the ' nations ; not only extracting but select-
nature of its food, the more fertilizing ing in those cases where several salts

is the manure it affords.

I have no doubt that a languishing I

were in the same solution.

Dr. Daubeny, the Oxford professor of

plant, one, for example, that has been I agriculture, has also shown that stron-
kept very long with its roots out of the ' tian is rejected by barley, pelargoniums,
earth, as an orange tree recently im- and the winged pea.
ported from Italy, might be most rapid- [ Carbonic acid is also of benefit to
iy recovered, if its stem and branches plants, when applied to their roots in
were steeped in a tepid weak solution an advanced stage of their growth.
of carbonate of ammonia, and when [ Animal and vegetable matters evolve
planted, an uncorked phial of the so.- this gas whilst putrefying ; and I am
lution were suspended to one of the ' not aware of any manure that absorbs
branches, to impregnate the atmosphere it from the atmosphere, so as to be for

slightly with its stimulating fumes.

that reason beneficial to vegetation.

Manures are also of benefit to plants 1 Lime attracts it rapidly, but combines
by affording some of the gases of the I with it so strongly that it is useless to

atmosphere to their roots in a concen
trated form. A soil, when first turned
up by the spade or plough, has gene-
rally a red tint, of various intensity.

the plant, until the carbonate of lime
so formed is imbibed and elaborated.

Manures assist plants by destroying
predatory vermin and weeds. This is

MAP

363

MAR

not a property of animal and vegetable
manures — they foster both those ene-
mies of our crops. Salt and lime are

plant ; sow. — Cardoons, sow, e. — Car-
roway, sow. — Carrots, sow, e. — Cauli-
flowers, plant from fiaines ; give air to

very efficient destroyers of slugs, snails, i those under glass; prick out spring-

grubs, &c.

raised ; sow, b. — Celeriac, sow. — Cele-

Stable manure, and all decomposing ' ry, sow; dress and earth up. — Cliamo-
animal and vegetable substances, have w/Ze, plant. — Chervil, sow. — Chives,
a tendency to promote the decay of plant. — Clary, sow. — Cress, sow. —
stubborn organic remains in the soil, ■ Composes, prepare. — Coriander, sow, e.
on the principle that putrescent sub- j — Corn Salad, sow. — Dill, sow. — Dung,
stances hasten the process of putrefac- : prepare for hot-beds. — Fennel, sow or
tion in other organic bodies with which plant. — Garlick, plant. — Horse-radish,
ihey come in contact. Salt, in a small ; plant. — Hot-beds, make, line, Stc. — Hys-
proportion, has been demonstrated by j sop, sow, e. — Jerusalem Artichokes,
Sir J. Pringle to be gifted with a similar | plant. — Kale (Sea), plant or sow ; force,
septic property, and that lime rapidly j — Kidney Beans, sow ; attend to those
breaks down the texture of organized j forcing. — Lavender, p]3.nt. — Leeks, sow.
matters is well known. i — Lettuces, sow ; prick out, and plant

There is no doubt that rich soils, or • out from frames. — Liquid Manure, give
those abounding in animal and vegeta- j to cabbages, &c. — Liquorice, p\Ant,h. —
ble remains, are less liable to change Marigolds, sow, — Marjoram, sow and
in temperature with that of the incum- ' plant. — Mint, plant; clean beds. —
bent atmosphere, than those of a poorer ' Mus/iroom Beds, attend to; make. —
constitution. This partly arises from I Mustard and Cress, sow. — Nasturtiums,
causes explained when treating of the j sow. — Onions, sow, put out buttons or
influence of the colour of soils upon setts, plant for seed, b.; (Potato and
vegetation. Some manures, as salt, ' Tree), plant. — Orach, sow. — Parsley,
protect plants from suffering by sudden ; (Com. and Hamb.) sow. — Parsnips, sow.

reductions of temperature, by entering
in their system ; stimulating, and ren-
dering them more vigorous, impreg-
nating their sap, and, consequently,
rendering it less liable to be congealed.
— Princ. of Gardening.

MAPLE. Acer.

MARANTA. Fifteen species,
herbaceous perennials. Division,
rich soil.

MARATTIA. Two species,
perennial ferns. Division or
Loam and peat.

MARCETFA exroriata. Stove shrub.
Cuttings. Rich light loam.

MARCGRAAVLA. Two species.
Curious stove evergreen shrubby creep-
ing plants. Cuttings. Turfy loam and
peat.

M.ARCH is a bnsy month, as will
appear from the following calendarial
directions: —

Peas, sow. — Pompions and Purslane,
sow, e. — Potatoes, plant. — Pennyroyal,
plant. — Radishes, sow ; — Rampion,
sow. — Rape (com. and edible-rooted),
sow, e. — Rhubarb, sow, b. ; plant, b. —
Rochambole, Rosemary and Rue, plant.
— Sage and Shallots, plant. — Salsafy
and Scorzonera, sow. — Savoys, sow.
Skirrets and Succory, sow. — Sorrels,
1 plant and sow. — Spinach, sow. — Tansy
Stove j and Tarragon, plant. — Tetragonia and
Thyme, sow, e. — Tomato, sow in hot-
bed. — Turnips, sow. — Wormwoods,
sow.

Stove
Light

seeds.

KITCHEN GAHDEN.

Alexanders, sow; earth up.-

ORCHARD.

Apricots, prune, if before neglected,
b.; young ones, head down. — Blossoms
of wall fruit protect. — Currants, finish
planting and pruning, b. — Espaliers,
generally finish regulating, b. — Figs,
prune and train, and plant, being best
time; make layers; plant cuttings. —
Fork over the borders and quarters, if
Angeli- before omitted. — Gooseberries, prune, if

ca, sow or plant. — Artichokes, dress ; j before neglected, b.; finish planting, b.
plant. — Aspiragus, sow ; plant; force;' — Grafting, in mild weather, is best
and dress beds. — Balm, plant. — BosiV, | done this month. — Grafts, prepare. —
sow. — Beans, plant; earth up. — Beet,' Mulch round the trees newly planted,
(red, white, and green), sow. — Borage,', to keep the roots moist. — Nectarines,
BOW. — Borneo/?, sow, e. — Broco/i, sow. neglected before, prune, b; young,
— Burnet, plant and sow. — Cabbages,] head down. — PeacAcs, before neglected.

MAR

364

MAR

prune, b.; young, head down. — Plant-
ing omitted complete, b. — Pruning,
complete, without fail, b. — Raspherries,
finish planting, b. — Strawberries, finish
dressing, b.; plant; and in pots for suc-
cessive forcing. — Suckers, for stocks,
may be planted. — Support with slakes
trees newly planted. — Stocks, raise from
seeds of Apples, Pears, Quinces, and
Medlars. — Trench, ^-c. ground for plant-
ing— Vines, finish pruning without fail,
b.j plant cuttings, and make layers.

FLOWER GARDEN.

Annuals (Tender), prick out in hot-
bed ; give air freely ; and sow to blow
from July to Oct.; (Hardy), sow in bor-
ders, and pot to remain. — Anemones,
finish planting. — Auriculas, plant off-
sets; sow; and dress where omitted
last month. — Biennials, sow, e. — Bulbs,
finish planting — Carnations, sow; raised
by layers last year plant out. — Chrysan-
themums, raised from cuttings, plant
from frames into pots. — Cleanliness is
now even more than ordinarily requi-
site.— Dahlias, sow ; prick out ; plant
cuttings of roots ; all in a gentle hot-
bed.— Dress borders generally, if omit-
ted before. — Earth, give fresh to plants
in pots. — Edgings of Box, &c., may be
made. — Evergreens, sow ; plant and
prune in mild weather. — Forest Trees,
sow ; cut down in shrubberies, &c. —
Grass Seeds, sow. — Gravel, weed, turn,
lay, and roll twice a week in dry wea-
ther.— Hand Glasses and a warm border
will now do for Tender Annuals. —
Hedges, finish making. — Hot-beds, for
tender Annuals, make ; give air freely;
protect at night; day temp, to be kept
about 70°. — Hyacinths, put fresh tan or
saw-dust on beds. — Layers, make of the
Arborescent Chinese Peonies, &c. — Pe-
rennials, plant and water, they will
blow same year ; sow. — Polyanthuses,
divide roots and sow. — Pots of Roses
and other flowers put in hot-house, for
succession produce. — Protection, give
to Auriculas and other choice flowers
in bud. — Roses, prune, b.; plant cuttings
of roots ; plant established trees, and
if repeated in April and May, b., a suc-
cession of flowers may be had until
September ends ; give liquid manure. —
Shrubs, generally finish pruning and
planting. — Stake newly |)lanted, and all
pliant shrubs, &c. — Sweet Briar for
hedges, &c., sow where to remain. —
Tulips (Early), protect bloom. — Turf

may be laid. — Water frequently, but
moderately, and only in mild weather.

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit freely. — Cherries ripening
require but little water. — Flowers in
pots continue to introduce. — Kidney
Beans, continue forcing. — Leaves, clean
by the sponge and syringe. — Pines re-
quire more water, and greater heat ;
syringe their crowns; give liquid ma-
nure ; shift into larger pots. — Peaches,
thin; the day temp, for them should
not exceed IQ^ ; disbud; trim; water
abundantly.-Propagfa^e hot-house plants
by slips, cuttings, suckers, and layers,
according to the plant's nature ; it is
the best season. — Seedlings of culinary
plants, remove to a cooler place. —
Straioberries, in pots, continue forcing.
— Temperature for Pines should be about
8.5"^ at midday, and during niaht 60" ;
in the flower stove 65'' and 55^. — To-
bacco fumigations continue. — Vines are
now all in motion ; thin ; train ; keep
well supplied with liquid manure ; air
keep moist, except to those in blossom ;
temp, as last month.

GREEN-HOUSE.

Air cannot be admitted too freely
during fine weather and the tempera-
ture above 32'-. — Earth (I'resh), give to
oranges and other shrubs ; stir the sur-
face of that in the pots frequently. —
Heading-down may be practised upon
oranges and other shrubs growing ir-
regularly.— Leaves, clean and remove
those decayed. — Orange Kernels, sow
to raise stocks. — Pot singly last year's
cuttings. — Propagate by slips, cuttings,
and layers as appropriate. — Pruiiing,
finish. — Shifting, complete, where ne-
cessary.— Sow seeds of green-house
plants in pots, and plunge in a hot-bed.
Water frequently, but moderately. —
Windows alwaysclose at night. — Wood,
dead and weakly, remove.

MARGINS of streams and other wa-
ters must always accord with the plea-
sure grounds in which they are placed.
Art, therefore, must imitate each in its
proper place, not always by a studious
picturesque arrangement of the margi-
nal accompaniments in each case, but
by excavating the groundwork, planting
the trees and shrubs, and leaving the
rest to the motion of the waves of the
water. After the effects of one winter,
stones or gravel may be deposited in

MAR

365

MAR

spots suitable for stony or gravelly 1 for them. If the soil is wet or rich.

they are deficient in their essential
Ten species, chiefly qualities, and the perennials are unable
' " " The sit-

shores
MA RICA.

green-house herbaceous perennials. M. to withstand severe weather

patuiiosa is a stove aquatic. Division or nation cannot be too open.

seeds. Loam, peat, and sand. Time and Mode of Propagation. — The

M.\RIGOLI). Calendula officinalis, sweet marjoram is propagated solely by

Varieties. — Single; Common double ; I seeds ; the two perennials by seed, as

Largest very double; Double lemon- Well as by parting their roots, and slips

coloured; Great Childing ; Small Child- ' of their branches. Sowing may be per-

ing. The single-flowered and those formed of all the species, from the con-

vvhich have the darkest orange colour, elusion of February, if open weather,

are most esteemed, as possessing the I to the commencement of June ; but the

most flavour. ' early part of April is the usual time for

Soil and Situation. — The soil most ' performing it. Portions of the rooted

suited to them is one that is light, dry,
and poor. In rich ground they grow
larger and more luxuriant, but lose
much of their flavour and quality. The
situation cannot be too open and ex-
posed

plants, slips, &c., may be planted from
February until May, and during Sep-
tember and October.

The sowing is performed either in
drills, six inches apart, or broadcast;
in either case the seed being buried not

Sowing may be from the close of more than half an inch deep. When
February until June; or it may be per- the seedlings have attained a height of
formed in autumn, during September, two or three inches, they must be thin-
If left to themselves, they will never ned to six inches, and those removed
fiil to multiply from the seif-sown seed, may be pricked in rows at a similar
Sow in drills, ten inches apart; the distance apart each way. Those of the
plants are best left where raised, being 1 annual species are to remain; but those
thinned to ten or twelve inches asunder; I of the perennials, to be finally removed

but when the seedlings are two or three
inches in height, they may be removed
into rows at similar distances as above.
Water must be given moderately every
other day, until established.

Gathering. — The flowers, which the

during September, at the distances di-
rected below, when raised from slips,
&c., water beinggiven at every removal,
and until the plants are established.

The slips and partings of the root,
are inserted in rows ten or twelve

spring-raised plants will produce in the ' inches apart, whera they are to remain;
June of the same year, but those of they must be watered moderately every
autumn not until that of the following ! evening, and shided during the day,
one, will be fit to gather for keeping in | until they have taken root, which they
July, when they are fully expanded, as | soon do, and acquire a stocky growth,
well as for use when required. Before i The only cultivation that any of the
storing, they must be dried perfectly, species require, is the frequent applica-
otherwise they become mouldy and tion of the hoe. In October the decay-

decay.

ed parts of the perennials are cut away.

To obtain Seed. — Plants of each va- and some soil from the alleys scattered

riety must be grown as far distant from
each other as may be. The two child-
ing, and the largest double marigolds,
are especiable liable to degenerate, if
the seed is not carefully taken from the
largest and most double flowers.

M.\IUORAM. (.Origanum.) O. mar-

oxer the bed about half an inch in depth,
the surfice of the earth between the
stools being previously stirred gently.

The tops and leaves of all the species
are gathered when green in summer
and autumn, for use, in soups, &c.; and
a store of the branches are cut and dried

jnrana. Sweet or Summer Marjoram, in July or August, just before the flow-
0. heracleoticum. Winter Marjoram, ers open for winter's supply.
O. onites. Common or Pot Marjoram, i To obtain Seed. — There is little diffi-
Soil and Situation. — A light, dry and : culty in obtaining the seed of the pot
moderately fertile soil is required for I marjoram ; if a plant or two are left
their healthy growth; and if it is one ! ungathered from, it unfailingly ripens
that has not been cropped for a con- I in the course of the autumn. But the
Biderable time, it is the more favourable I exotic species seldom ripen theirs in

MAR

366

MAY

this country ; consequently it is usually
obtained from the south of France or
Italy. In favourable years, however,
they sometimes perfect it late in au-
tumn.

Forcing. — When the green tops are
much in request a small quantity of
seed of the summer marjoram is sown
in January or February, in a moderate
hot-bed.

MARL is a compound of chalk (car-
bonate of lime) with either siliceous
sand or alumina. In the first instance,
it is a siliceous marl, best applied to
heavy soils; and in the latter a clayey
marl, adapted for light lands. Slaty
and sliellmarls are varieties of the sili-
ceous. The relative proportions of the
constituents vary indefinitely, the chalk
amounting from 15 to 75 per cent. The
quantity applied per acre must also vary
greatly, according to the object to be
attained. To render a light soil more
tenaceous 100 tons per acre of clayey
marl are not too much ; neither is the
same quantity of siliceous marl an ex-
cess, if applied to a heavy soil to ren-
der it more friable. For much useful
information on this subject, see "Ruffin
on Calcareous Manures," a Virginia
publication.

M A R L E A begoniafolia. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Half-ripened
cuttings. Peat and loam.

MARRUBIUM. Nine species. Har-
dy herbaceous perennials. Division or
seed. Common soil.

MARSHALLIA. Four species. Half-
hardy herbaceous perennials. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

MARSH MALLOW. Althaa.

MARTYNIA. Four species. Stove
or green-house annuals. Seeds. Light
rich soil.

MASDEVALLIA infracta. Stove
orchid. Division. Wood.

MASSONIA. Thirteen species.
Green-house bulbous perennials. Off-
sets or seeds. Loam, peat and sand.

MASTERWORT. Astrantia.

MASTIC. Majorana crassifoUa.

MASTICH. Thymus mastichina.

MASTICH TREE. Pistacia lentisciis.

MATHIOLA. The Stock. Twenty-
two species and several varieties. The
hardy annuals and biennials, and the
half-hardy shrubby kinds, increase by
seeds, and grow well in loam and peat.
The green -house evergreen shrubby

species, cuttings, light soil and sand.
See Stock.

M A T T I A. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division. Com-
mon soil.

MAURANDYA. Three species.
Green-house evergreen twiners. Young
cuttings or seeds. Light rich soil.

MAURITIA. Three species. Palms.
Rich sandy loam, and a strong moist
heat.

MAXILLARIA. Fifty-four species.
Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood.

MAXIMILIAN A regia. Palm. Rich
sandy loam, and a good moist heat.

MAY requires the gardener's especial
care in every department of his grounds.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Angelica, sow. — Artichokes, plant,
b.; clean beds. — Asparagus , keep clean;
apply liquid manure. — Balm, plant. —
Basil, plant out. — Beans, sow, hoe, lop.
— Beet, (Red,) thin ; (White and Green),
sow. — Borage, sow. — Borecole, sow, b.;
plant ; prick out ; plant out ; hoe ; leave
for seed. — Brocoh, sow, h.; plant; prick
out. — Burnets, sow and plant. — Cab-
bages, sow; plant; earth up. — Capsicum,
plant out. — Carrots, sow ; thin. — Car-
doons, sow, b. — Cauliflowers, take
glasses from; sow the late variety for
autumn use. — Celery, sow, b. ; prick
out; plant out; water; leave for seed.
Chamomile, plant. — Chervil, sow ; leave
for seed. — Chives, plant. — Coriander,
sow ; leave for seed. — Cress, sow ; (Wa-
ter),plant. — Crops, failed, replace forth-
with.— Cucumbers, prick out; plant out;
attend to forcing. — Dill, sow, and plant.
— Earthing-up, attend to. — Endive,
sow, e.; leave for seed. — Fennel, sow
and plant. — Finochio, sow ; clean. —
Hot-beds attend to; linings, &c. — Hyssop,
sow and plant. — Kale, (Sea,) attend to
blanching, &c. — Kidney-Beans (dwarfs),
sow, b.; (runners) sow. — Lavender plant.
Leeks, sow; thin; leave for seed. —
Lettuces, sow; plant out; tie up. — Mari-
golds, sow. — Marjorams, sow and plant.
— Melons, sow, b. ; prick out ; ridge out;
attend to forcing; thin laterals. — Mint,
plant. — Mushroom-beds, make, b. ; at-
tend to those producing. — Mustard and
Cress, sow; leave for seed. — Nasturti-
ums, sow, b. — Onions, weed, &c. ; sow
for planting again in spring); (Welch),
leave for seed. — Parsley, sow; leave
for seed; (Hamburgh), thin. — Parsnips,

MAY

367

MAY

thin, &c. — Peas, sow ; top tliose bloom- I during midday; (Autumn blooming).

ing. — Pennyroyal, plant. — Poinpions,
sow, b. ; ridfje out, b. — Potatoes, plant,

plant again after separating offaets, or
else store until end of July. — Carna-

b. ; hoe. — Purslane, sow; leave for | //o;iS, remove side-buds from liower-

seed. — Radishes, sow ; leave for seed.
— Rape, lor salading, sow ; (Edible-

stems ; shade from meridian sun; water
n (Xry weather; sow. — Dahlias, plant

rooted), sow, e, — Rosemary, plant. — j out from green-house; e. — Dress the
Rue, plant. — Sage, plant. — Salsnfy, borders, &c., almost daily. — Evergreens
thin, &c. — Savory, sow and plant. — Sa- , njay be planted, b. — Fibrous-rooted pe-
voys, sow, b. ; plant ; prick out. — Scor- , rcnnials, propagate by cuttings of young
zonera, thin, &c. — Sorrels, sow and | llower-stalks. — Flowering-Plants re-
plant.— Spinach, sow; thin; leave for | quire staking, &c. — Grass, mow and
seed. — Tansy, and Tarragon, plant. — i roll weekly. — Gravel, roll weekly. —
TAi/me, sow and plant. — Tomatoes, \)\anl Hoeing cannot be too frequent. — Hya-
out. — Turnips, sow; thin. — Turnip- j cinths, take up and store as leaves de-
Cabbage, sow. — Watering, attend to in cay. — Mignionette, sow for succession,

dry weather. — Weeds, destroy as they
appear.

ORCHARD.

Apples (Wall and Espalier), trim and
train, e. — Apricots, trim and thin their
fruit. — Budded Trees, remove shoots
from stocks below the buds. — Grafts,
remove clay and loosen bandages from,
e. ; remove shoots from stock. — Insects,
watch for and destroy with lime-dust,
tobacco, or other application. — Mulch,
continue round late-planted trees. —
Nectarines, trim and train ; thin fruit. —
Peaches, trim and train; thin fruit. —
Pears (Wall and Espalier), trim and
train, e. — Plums (Wall and Espalier),
trim and train, e. — Salt, strewn along
the top of a wall, prevents slugs and
snails coming over from the shaded
side. — Snails, destroy; they are very

b. — Perennials, sow, b.; propagate by
slips and cuttings. — Polyanthuses, part,
if not done in April; shade, and through-
out the summer, sunshine destroys
them. — Roses, this is the best season for
budding. — Stake and tie up plants ; seed-
lings, thin. — Tulips, remove seed-pods ;
take up and store as leaves decay. —
Turf may be laid, and grass-seed sown,
b. ; water frequently in dry weather. —
Wall-Jiowers, sow, to bloom next year.
— Water-glass bulbs, plant in borders
as flowers decay. — Watering, attend to
in dry weather, especially to plants
newly removed,

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit as freely as possible. —
Bark-Beds may be renewed, if not done
in Ajjril. — Figs, keep well watered;
pick olf laterals. — Fruit Trees, in fore-

destructive now to wall-fruit, especially j '"'Sj '"f treatment see April. — Grapes,
nectarines.— I7ne.s, trim and train ; hoe | gather before dead ripe, and hang in
frequently those in vineyard.— fFa// 1 grape-room.— Pines, water every fourth

Trees generally require training this
month. — Water, apply by the engine
to wall-trees and espaliers; give to
newly-planted trees, in dry weather,
frequently

FLOWER GARDEI^.

Anemones, take up, and separate off-
sets as leaves decay. — Annicals, remove

morning ; shift last year's crowns, if not
done in April, b.; temperature at night
75". and at midday 100^'. — Potted Plants
may yet be shifted, b. ; shade for a few
days after, — Propagate by seeds, cut-
tings, &c., if before omitted. — Pruning
should have been finished last month;
pinch down the fruit-shoots. — Strawber-
ries, fruiting, give liquid-manure. — Sy-

from hot-bed to borders. — yl«r/cu/as, j riVig-ing, generally, as fruit ripens, dis-
done blooming, remove to north-east ' continue. — Vines, keep at a night tem-
aspect, where they will not have the I perature of 70", and at midday 85";

sunshine after nine ; offsets, detach and
plant; seedlings, keep in the shade;
water moderately in dry weather. —
Awnings or other shelter, continue
over beds of hyacinths, tulips, e., now
in bloom. — Biennials, aow, b. — Bulbous
Roots, generally, directly leaves decay,
take up and store; seedlings, shade

when grapes are beginning to ripen
cease from syringing; remove super-
fluous shoots. — Water, supply very fre-
(juently, but moderately. — Work, gene-
ral, required, (See April.)

GBEEN-HOUSE.

Air is now so essential that potted

MAY

368

plants of hardier kinds move to outside.
— Cuttings of some plants will still
grow. — Earth, is pots, stir. — Layering
will yet be successful. — Leaves, clean,
before removing from house. — Orange-
stocks, seedlings pot sing\y; inarching and sand,
of the orange and lemon may yet be MAZE
practised. — Pruning must now be only
casual. — Shifting into larger pots com-
plete, b. — Succulent Plants, as aloes,
&c., may be moved out, e. — Water fre-
quently but moderately ; it may be
poured freely over their foliage as a
cleanser. — Windows and doors open
daily, and during mild nights, to harden
before moving out.

ME A

Podophyllum pelta-

MAY APPLE.
turn.

MAYTENTJS. Four species. Half-
hardv or green-house evergreen shrubs
or trees. Ripe cuttings. Peat, loam.

See Labyrinth.

MAZUS pumi'Zio, a hardy annual ; and
M. rugosus, a half-hardy trailing an-
nual. Seeds. Common soil, and a warm
situation.

MEADOW-SAFFRON. Colchicum.

MEADOW-SWEET. Spircea ulma-
ria.

MEASURES, ENGLISH

GRAIN MEASURE.

4 Gills . make .... 1 Pint . containing

2 Pints 1 Quart ....

4 Quarts 1 Gallon ....

2 Gallons 1 Peck ....

4 Pecks 1 Bushel 2218i

4 Bushels 1 Sack 5^

8 Bushels 1 Quarter lOi

5 Quarters 1 Load b\\

TIMBER MEASURE.

34^

Cubic Inches

69i

(C li

277i

ti <c

554i

a a

Feet.

A load of timber, unhewn, is 40 cub. ft.
squared, 50 "

1 inch plank 600 sq. ft.
li " 400 "

2 " 300 "

A load of 2i inch plank 240 sq. ft.

3 " 200 "
3i " 170 '«

4 " 150 "

LAND MEASURE.

The English statute acre contains \ ry, 3630. The French arpent is an
4840 square yards; the . Scoff A, 5760; English acre and three-fourths of a
the Irish, 7S40 ; the Devonshire, cus-rood. The Strasburg acre is nearly
tomary, 4000; the Cornish, 5760; the half an English acre ; the Prussian mor-
Lancashire,19:A0;l\ie Cheshire ^ndStaf- gen is not quite three-fourths of an
fordshire, 10,240 ; the Wiltshire tenant- acre.

12 Inches
3 Feet .
6 Feet .
64 Yards

Inches.
144

1,296

39,204

1,568,160

6,272,640

LONG MEASURE.

1 Foot. I 40 Poles

1 Yard. | S Furlono

1 Fathom. I 3 Miles '^

1 Pole. 69i Miles

1 Furlong.

1 Mile.

1 League.

1 Degree.

SQUARE MEASURE.

Feet.

1

9

272i

10,890

43,560

Yards.

1

30i

1210

4840

Poles, Rods,
or Perches.

1

Roods.

40

1

Acre

60

4

1

30 Acres are 1 Yard of Land.
100 ... 1 Hide of Land.
640 ... 1 Square Mile.

ME A

369

■ — ♦-

CUBIC MEASURE.

1728 Cubic Inches make . . .

27 " Feet

40 " " of Rough Timber
50 " " of Hewn do.

108 " "

128 " "

ME A

1 Cubic Foot.
1 " Yard.

1 Load.

1 Stack of Wood.
1 Cord.

LONDON MARKET FRUIT A

These being made either of osier or
deal shavings, vary triflingly in size
more than measures made of less flexi-
ble materials. They are as follow : —

Sea-Kale Punnets. — Eight inches di-
ameter at the top, and seven inches and
a half at the bottom and two inches
deep.

Radish Punnets. — Eight inches di-
ameter, and one inch deep, if to hold
six hands ; or nine inches by one inch
for twelve hands.

Mush7-oom Punnets. — Seven inches
by one inch.

Salading Punnets. — Five inches by
two inches.

Half-Sieve. — Contains three imperial
gallons and a half. It averages twelve
inches and a half diameter, and six in-
ches in depth.

Sieve. — Contains seven imperial gal-
lons. Diameter, fifteen inches ; depth,
eight inches.

Bushel-Sieve. — Ten imperial gallons

ND VEGETABLE MEASURES.

and a half. Diameter at top, seven-
teen inches and three quarters ; depth,
eleven inches and a quarter.

Bushel-Basket — Ought, when heaped,
to contain an imperial bushel. Di-
ameter at bottom, ten inches ; at top,
fourteen inches and a half; depth, se-
venteen inches. Walnuts, nuts, apples,
and potatoes are sold by this measure.
A bushel of the last-named, cleaned,
weighs 56 lbs., but 4 lbs. additional are
allowed if they are not washed.

A Pottle is a long tapering basket
that holds about a pint and a half.

Hand — Applies to a bunch of ra-
dishes, which contains from twelve to
thirty, according to the season.

A Bundle contains six to twenty heads
of brocoli, celery, &c.; and in the case
of asparagus from 100 to 150.

A Bunch is applied to herbs, and va-
ries much in size according to the
season.

HEAPED MEASURES.

English market-gardeners, and re- 1 7, that for potatoes, fruit, &c., the
tailers of fruit, potatoes, &c., generally t bushel shall be made round, with a
vend their commodities as if the Act of plain and even bottom, and being nine-
Parliament, 5 and G Will. IV. c. 63, did | teen inches and a half from outside
not exist. By this statute selling by j to outside, and capable of containing
heaped measure is forbidden under a SOIbs. weight of water,
penalty of not more than 40s. for every Of Wood Fuel. — English Measure. —
such sale. Section 8 provides that, as Wood-fuel is assized into shids, billets,
some articles heretofore sold by heaped faggots, fall-wood, and cord-wood. A
measure are incapable of being stricken, ; shid is of fall-wood and cord-wood.
and may not inconveniently be sold by A shid is to be four feet long, and,
weight, it is enacted, that all such arti- according as they are marked and
tides may henceforth be sold by a notched, their proportion must be in
bushel-measure, corresponding in shape the girth: viz., if they have but one
with the bushel prescribed by the 5 ' notch they must be sixteen inches in
Geo. IV. c. 74, for the sale of heaped the girth ; if two notches, twenty-three
measure, or by any multiple or ali(juot inches; if three notches, twenty-eight
part thereof, filled in all parts as nearly ! inches ; if four notches, thirty-three
to the level of the brim as the size and inches ; and if five notches, thirty-eight
shape of the articles will admit; but i inches about.

nothing herein shall prevent the sale by Billets are to be three feet long, of
weight of any article heretofore sold by which there should be three sorts;
heaped measure. The 5 Geo. IV. c. , namely, a single cask, and a cask of
74, thus referred to, enacts, by section ! two. The first is seven inches; the se-
24

M EC

370

MEL

cond ten inches; and the third fourteen
inches about. They are sold by the
hundred of five score.

Faggots are to be three feet long, and,
at the band, oftvventy-four inches about,

load. Cord-wood is the bigger sort of
fire-wood ; and it is measured by a cord
or line, whereof there are two measures
— that of fourteen feet in length, three
feet in breadth, and three feet in height;

besides the knot ; of such faggots fifty the other is eight feet in length, tour
go to the load. I feet in height, and four feet in

Bavins and Spray-ioood are sold by breadth,
the hundred, which are accounted a I

MEASURE

1000 Billets of Wood
10 Cwt. of Wood
1 Cord of Wood
100 Lbs. of Wood

MECONOPSIS. Three species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Seeds.
Light soil.

MEDIC AGO. Seventy -two species.
Chiefly hardy annuals, and, for the most
part, trailers. The herbaceous peren-
nial kinds are increased by division ;
the shrubby species by cuttings; and
the annuals by seed. Common soil
suits them all.

MEDICK. Medlcago.

MEDINILLA erythrophylla. Stove
evergreen shrub.

JMEDLAR. Mespilus germanira.

Varieties. — Blake's Large; Dutch,
largest fruit; Nottingham, small, but
best flavoured ; Stoneless, inferior, but
keeps longer than others.

Propagation by Seed. — This is a tedi-
ous mode, the seed usually lying two
years before it germinates. Sow imme-
diately the fruit containing the seed de-
cays, in common light soil. Water the
seedlings frequently in dry weather ;
thin them to two feet apart ; and when
four or five years old they will be fit for
final planting.

By Layers. — This may be done in
February and March, making use of
shoots of the previous year. They will
have rooted by the autumn.

Grafting and Budding may be done
on the White Thorn, but the Pear is a
better stock for the medlar.

^oil. — A well-drained, but retentive
loam suits it best.

Planting, Pruning, S,-c. — See the di-
rections given for the Pear.

Storing. — The fruit ought not to be
gathered until November, for if the
o-athering is made before the fruit is
tully matured, it shrivels without ripen-
ing in its decay. Spread them singly
upon sand, the calyx, or open side

OF WOOD.

= 1 Cord.

= 1 Cord.

= i Chaldron of Coals.

= 1 Quintal of Wood.

downwards, and dipping the stalk end
in a strong brine of common salt and
water, which is said to check the oc-
currence of mouldiness.

MEGACLINIUM. Three species.
Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood.

MEG AST ACHY A. Nine spe-
cies. Grasses. Chiefly annuals. Seeds.
Common soil.

MELALEUCA. Forty-six species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Half-
ripened cuttings. Loam, peat, and
sand.

MELANTHIUM. Eight species.
Green-house bulbous perennials. Off"-
sets or seeds. Loam, peat, and sand.

MELASPHiERULA. Four species.
Green-house bulbous perennials. Off-
sets. Sandv peat.

MELASfOMA. Twelve species.
Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs. M.
elongata, is a tuberous-rooted perennial,
and very beautiful. Cuttings. Loam,
peat, and sand.

MELHANIA. Three species. Stove
or green-house evergreen trees. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam.

MELIA. Nine species. Stove or
green-house evergreen trees. M. aze-
darach, is deciduous: large ripened
cuttings, with the leaves not shortened.
Loam, peat, and sand.

MELIANTHUS. Three species.
Green-house or hardy evergreen shrubs.
Cuttings. Light rich soil.

MELICHRUS. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. San-
dy peat.

MELICOCCA. Four species. Stove
evergreen fruit trees. Ripe cuttings.
Light loamy soil.

MELICOPE ternata. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

MEL

371

MEL

MELISSA. Balm. Four species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division.
Common soil.

MELITTA melis-tophyUum and two
varieties. Hanly herbaceous perennials.
Division. Common soil.

MELOC ACTUS. Melon thistle.
Fourteen species. Stove evergreen
shrubs. Offsets. Sandy peat.

MELODINUS. Two species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

MELOLONTHA, the Cockchafer.

M. vulgaris. Common Cockchafer.

M. hortkolo. May-Bug, or Bracken-
clock. Feeds upon the leaves of the
Raspberry and Rose. Mr. Curtis justly
observes, that — " When the roses are
in full bloom in May, these beetles

termed, is more economical, and by
enabling a more regular temperature to
be sustained, renders the fruit in great-
er perfection. The pit is a rectangular
frame or bin, built of nine inch brick-
work, in preference to boards, which
have to be renewed every five or sn
years, if employed and enclosed by a
glass case of the necessary dimensions.
Mr. Smith, gardener to A. Keith, Esq.,
of Ravelstone, N. B., has suggested a
mode of building a pit which renders
the renewal of the heat in it easy ; and
as the committee appointed to examine
it report, is the means of considerable
saving compared with the common
mode of forming an open bed. But the
facility with which linings may be ap-
plied is its best feature ; for if by any

sometimes do very extensive mischief chance the heat failed, there was seldom

to the flowers, by eating out the anthers
and consuming the petals. Having de-
posited about a hundred eggs in the
earth, the female dies, and the larva;
hatch and commence their attacks upon
the roots of the grass. It is stated, that
they are feeding three years, and they
reside about an inch beneath the turf;
but as winter approaches, they retire
deeper into the earth ; and even in
November, when frost has set in, they
have buried themselves a spade deep.
The larva; are rather active and can
walk tolerably well, dragging their bo-
dies after them ; they lie, however,
generally curved up in the shape of a
horse-shoe; the head is deep, ochreous
and destitute of eyes. The body is
ochreous white with a few brown hairs.
To kill these larvs, water the grass in
the autumn with one-tenth gas liquor
to two-tenths svater, it will do no mi

any alternative in the old pits but to
break them up.

The accompanying sketch will at
once show the form of the pit, and Mr.
Smith's mode of applying the linings.
A is the pit the side of which a a in-
stead of being a continuous piece of

Fiff. 9S.

brick-work are merely rows of pillars
six feet apart; and the brick-work of
the frame 6 6 is supported by bars of
iron reaching from pillar to pillar. An

.^ _ .._ _ outer wall, c c, is constructed at two

chief to the grass, but will extirpate j and a half feet distance from the pillars

these miners. Where the gas liquor
cannot be obtained, employ strong salt
water." — Card. Chron.

MELON. Cucumis meJo.

Varieties. — There are many varieties
of the Melon of which the Nutmeg may

on each side ; thus two bins are formed
in which the linings are inserted, as is
found necessary, and are kept close
covered with thick boards ; d represents
the lights, which thus are formed with-
out any wooden frames. For other

be considered as the type ; it and the modes of construction, see P;y,s, (^-c. If

Citron are, however, the most desirable,
which have come under our observa-
tion. The mode of out-door culture
is very similar to that of the cucumber;
they delight in light land well manured ;
are quite tender, and should not he
planted untd all fear of frost has ceased

a common hot-bed is employed, fifteen
barrow loads of dung is the usual al-
lowance to each light, which make it
about six inches higher than is allowed
for the cucumber bed of largest dimen-
sions. If a melon house be employed,
the following is the form and mode

To force Melons. — Although a com- I adopted by Mr. Fleming.
mon hot-bed is generally used for this j " The house is twenty-eight feet lonp,
plant, yet a pit, as it is technically | and fifteen wide, and is heated by

MEL

Fig. 99.

372

MEL

means of a saddle boiler, with four-inch
pipes passing round the outside of the
pit, which pipes are fitted with cast-iron
troughs for holding water to regulate
the moisture of the atmosphere. Be-
neath the pit is an arched chamber, a,

along the front of whicli runs the flue, '\ three or four inches deep
h, imparting a slight degree of heat to i ing is best performed twice, four or five
the soil above, and also serving to heat , days elapsing before the second inser-
a series of arches, c, which run along tion ; this guards as much as possible
beneath the path, and are entered from against failure. The pots should be
a house in front, d, and which are used > plunged by degrees, and not at once

sowing before February is well ad-
vanced, and more risk of failure incur-
red. On the average, fifteen weeks
elapse; on the shortest and coldest
days of winter eighteen ; and as the
spring advances it decreases to eleven
or twelve; these periods necessarily
varying in different years. The mode
of sowing, managing the seedlings,
pricking out, &c., being the same as
with the cucumber, only that a few de-
grees higher temperature is required, I
refer the reader to that head. The pots
in which the seed is sown should be
Each sow-

for forcing rhubarb, &c., in the winter.
— Gard. Chron.

Mr. Green has published the follow-
ing excellent mode of heating a melon
pit with hot water : —

The annexed figure represents a

down to the rim. Those for pricking
into must be about five inches in di-
ameter. The first stopping.is usually
performed in the seed-beds.

Ridging out. — The soil must be two
feet deep, and the plants inserted in the

section of the pit: 1, 1, are the flow ! centre of each light, care being taken to
pipes and the water troughs; 3, the ' remove them with as little injury as pos-
pipes to fill the troughs; 4, the pipe by I sible to the roots. The removal should
which the water is let outof the troughs; take place soon after the attainment of

the bed for the plants ; and G, the
trellis on which the shoots are trained."

Fig. 100.

Time and Mode of Sowing. — Seed
may be sown about the middle of Jan-
uary; but the usual time is about the
same period of the succeeding month,
or not even until its close, if severe
weather; to be repeated towards the
end of March, and lastly in the first
weeks of April and May. The length
of time between the sowing and cutting,
depends chiefly upon the variety em-
ployed. But little time is gained by

the rough leaves, or immediately on the
appearance of the lateral runners. If
the bed is not ready, those from the
earth of the seed-beds must be moved
into pots, and those already in them
turned into larger ones, from whence
they may be finally removed without
detriment; one plant only should be
allowed to remain, for no more are re-
quired for each light. Water must be
given with the precautions enumerated
for cucumbers, and especial care taken
not to wet the foliage, or to apply it too
abundantly, and repeated two or three
times until the plants are establish-
ed. When completely rooted, the
bed may be earthed by degrees to its
full depth, sixteen inches; it being first
added immediately round the cones,
and pressed moderately firm as it is laid
on. The pruning and training must be
performed as in cucumbers, and the
same precautions taken to admit air and
light, and to shade and cover, &c. It
is in the training and management of
the foliage in particular that the ge-
nerality of gardeners are careless, al-
though the labours of the j)hysiologist
and chemist have demonstrated how
important it is that every leaf should be

MEL

373

MEL

kept in its natural posture and vigour.
So convinced was Mr. Knight of the
little attention paid to tiiis point, that
he took some melon plants under his
especial care. He placed one under

er the main stem the better, must be
left on each runner, and all others
nipped off, the runner at the s;iinc time
being broken away at the third joint
above it. Eight melons on one plant

each light, the glass of which was six of the large varieties, and about twelve
feet by four ; the branches were trained of the smaller are quite sufficient to be
regularly and secured by pegs in every left; if more are suff'ered to remain,
direction; and still further, to present i they will either be of inferior size and
the largest possible surface of foliage to ' quality, or not ripen at all. By this
the light, the leaves were held erect'
at equal distances from the glass. As
great injury is sustained by these from
the common mode of watering, it was
80 performed as not to touch them. By
this simple additional care, the other
routine of their management being the
same as usual, the fruit attained an ex-
traordinary degree of perfection, and

prunmg fresh runners are often in-
duced; but these must in like manner
be stopped, and any fruit that they may
produce be removed. If a superabun-
dance are produced, which especially,
if new seed is employed, will some-
times happen, it is necessary to thin
them, and in doing this the weakest and
most luxuriant must alike be rejec'ted.

ripened in an unusually short space of those of an average size being the most
time. Mr. Knight further directs, how-' fruitful. It must always be kept in
ever, that wherever a sufficient quantity ' mind, that air should be admitted as
of fruit is set, the production of more much and as often as circumstances

leaves is to be prevented, if they can-
not be exposed to the light without
overshadowing the fruit, by pinching
off the laterals as soon as formed. No
part of full-grown leaves, however.

will allow. During mild and serene
afternoons and evenings, the glasses
may be entirely removed, but on no
consideration left ofTall night. In very
warm weather they may be kept off,

should be destroyed though far distant' from ten in the morning until five, a

from the fruit.
Temperature.-

shade being afforded to the plants dur-
-The temperature re- ing the meridian if they flag at all. It

quires particular attention at the time I is necessary, both for melons and cu-
of setting and ripening ; though neglect ' cumbers, that something should be laid
at all the stages of growth is fatal. It! between the fruit and the earth of the
must never fall below 70°, or rise above ' bed, otherwise it will be speckled and
SO^. The seed or nursery bed may ' injured in appearance ; clean straw and
continue about the minimum, but never reeds spread in thin but regular layers
below it: and the fruiting one as con- are often employed for this purpose,
stantlv approximatinii the maximum as If tiles or pieces of board are made use
possible until the fruit is full grown, of, it is of considerable service in for-
when the temperature during the day warding the ri[)ening, to have them
may vary between 85^ and 953. Im- painted or charred black; but what
pregnation must be performed as di- would be still better is coal ashes
reeled for cucumbers. When the run- spread over the surface of the bed two
ners completely touch the side of the or three inches deep and beat smooth,
frame, if the season is genial it must be [ This, I am of opinion, is preferable

raised three or four inches by means of
bricks, otherwise they must be pruned
or stopped. From ijiis, the propriety
of having only one plant to a light, is
evident; for the runners being ofVen
six or seven feet long, and very numer-
ous, require, if there is not room for

from its power of absorbing and re-
taining heat, and inferior in no other
quality to drifted sea or river sand,
recommended by Mr. Henderson, of
Brechin Castle, N. B., which, he ob-
serves, extirpates the slater or wood-
louse, by preventing it conccaliii"

training, the frame to be lifted long self from the rays of the sun ; it keeps
before the season will allow it. As down the steam, affords a bed for the
soon as the fruit is set they must he fruit as warm and as dry as tiles or
looked over three or four times in a slates, retains the moisture longer,
week to observe which is the most i whilst it becomes dry itself sooner than
vigorous and finest; of these, one that] those coverings, and is a powerful pre-
has the largest footstalk, and the near- 1 ventive of the evil — the mildew. If

MEL

374

MEL

tiles or Blates are employed, they must twenty years old it has been known to
be put under the fruit as soon as it has , produce fruitful plants,
attained the size of a walnut, the other jj^nd Glass Crops.— For these, plants
materials immediately after the plants ^^e required from sowings of the middle
are well established. A regular moist- of March, April, or early in May, and

ure should be kept up by moderate wa- - -^ r„.„i„„.; » ;=,„,nrU<.H

terings applied with the precaution inti-
mated for cucumbers; but when the
fruit is becoming ripe, water must be
either altogether withheld or applied

whose fitness for planting out, is marked
by the rough leaf, &c., as intimated be-
fore.

The bed must be four and a half feet
ide, in length proportionate to the

eiiiier ajiwycLuci ..nwni^.u «. ^-cf i wide, in lengin proporiionaie i.) mc

very sparingly. About thirty or forty , jju^^ber of glasses, which must be at
days usually elapse between the setting j ^^^^^ f^^^ f^^^ jjp^^t . ^^d, eight barrow
and full ripeness; it must be gently S j^j^^jg of dung being allowed to each
turned twice or three times during a [ ^]^gg^ ■^^ y,i\\ be about two and a half
•week, otherwise that side which lies ^^^^ high. It may be founded in -^

^/^notniitl V nn fhp (Tmiinfl wili bc blaHch- 1, :l- »u_

constantly on the ground will be blanch-
ed and disfigured. Its maturity is inti-
mated by a circular crack near the
footstalk, sometimes by becoming yel-
lowish; but more decidedly by the
emission of a fragrant smell. The
cutting should be performed early in
the morning, and the fruit kept in a
cool place until wanted. The whole

trench, if the soil is dry, but it is best
constructed on the surface. The earth-
ing, planting, and other points of man-
agement are precisely the same as for
the frame crops. The temperature
need not, however, be so high, the
maximum required being 70^, but it
must never sink below 65°, which may
easily be accomplished by linings, &c.

of the stalk is left pertaining to it when , rpj^^ runners must not be allowed to

cut. To prevent the fruit's bursting,
it is a very successful plan to elevate

extend from beneath the glasses until
June, or the weather has become genial

It IS a vcij oLii,>.<^oo.ui jj.u.. — June, or me weainer ii;ts uci;uiuc i;ciiia

the further end of the fruit as much as ^^^ settled, but be kept within as no

30'^ above the stalk end.

To Obtain Seed. — For the production
of seed, some fruit of the earliest raised
crops must be left : of these the finest
and firmest should be selected, the
choice being guided by the circum-
stances, as are mentioned for cucum-
bers. No two varieties should be grown
in the same frame, either when the seed
is an object, for then it would be con-
taminated ; or if the fruit is alone re-
quired; for their growth and vigour
almost always differing, different treat-
ment is required by each. Neither

ticed for cucumbers. 'When allowed
to escape, all dwindled or snpervigor-
ous shoots must be removed, and the
training be as regular as for those in
the frames. The glasses raised upon
props must, however, be kept con-
stantly over the centre as a shelter to
the capital parts.

The bed requires to be hooped over
for the support of mats in cold or wet
weather. If paper-frames are employ-
ed, the most unremitting attention is
required, the plants being very apt to

ment IS required by eacn ei e ; ^ . .^^^_^_ They may, how

should cucumbers or gourds be allowed, P , j with advantage in

to vegetate in such a situation, as to | , PJ ^^^ sheltering and

risk mutual impregnation by insects e P .^ ^^ ^^ ^^_

Bothof themebnandcucuri.ber,s^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^.^^ ^,^^ ^,.^;^ ^^ .

seed only should be kept as sinks freeb ^^^^^- ,„,j,,i, jj jg highly ad-
tothe bottom of water ^^ed is best P "^ ^„ ,/^3 hand-glasses over

lor sowin" when tliree or lour years = r . ■ »„ ,u„

'Z ,Tf .e5 than .^o, ,he plan,. ,Led ■';"-■■;- «^Er,"4"' ,' ,' .', d'„

;Z„;»c'.':r?n,?.nT ""„i;.."e'Tr -P-- -■... .„,, .,. srea.e„c.,c a„U a.
juxuriaiceu. Vf „o.v c^^rl i« una , tent on, unless there are spare frames to
male blossoms. If nevv seed '^""=1- i„p|„ge them entirely; those which do
voidab V emp oyed, it should be hung mciose mem euurcij^ , i,
m a pajer o*^ phial near the fire until "ot, are employed in pickling.
wanted, or be carried in the pocket for , For a tolerable supply throughout the
three or four weeks. If, on the con- season, a small fomily requires one
trarv, the seed is very old, it should be three-light frame, and three hand-glass-
soaked in milk-warm water for two or es ; these together will yield on the
three hours before sowing. When average thirty or torty melons, ihe

MEL

375

M E N

largest establishment will not require
more than four times as manv.

M E L O N, W A T E R . The Water
Melon is cultivated in the United States
precisely like the Nutmeg. There are
many kinds, of which the INIountain
Sprout, Mountain Sweet, and Black
Spanish are most esteemed at Philadel-
phia. The culture is so simple, and
so generally understood, that direction
must be needless. To produce fine
Melons on heavy or wet soil, it is ne-
cessary to prepare a light rich compost
in sufficient quantity to supply the wants
of the vines — hills four or five feet in
diameter, and two feet in depth.

MELON PUMPKIN. CucurUta me-
lopepo.

MELON THISTLE. Melocactus.

MELON TURK'S CAP. Melocactus
cotnmunis.

MEMECYLON. Two species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Sandy peat and loam.

MENIOCUS linifolius. Hardy an-
nual. Seeds. Common soil.

MENISCIUM. Five species. Stove
Ferns. Dtvision or seeds. Loam and
peat.

M E N I S P E R M U M . Five spe-
cies. Hardy deciduous or stove ever-
green twiners. Division, cuttings, or
seeds. Common soil.

MENONVILLEA fiUfoUa. Hardy
annual. Seeds. Light loamy soil.

M E N T H A . Mint. Twenty-five
species. Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Division. Common soil.

Spear or Green Mint. M. vlridis.
Is employed in sauces and salads, as
well as dried for soups in winter. There
are two varieties, the broad and narrow
leaved, equally good.

Penny Royal. M. Pulegium. Is cul-
tivated for its use in culinary and phar-
maceutical preparations. There are
two varieties, the trailing, which is
usually cultivated, and the upright.

Peppermint. I\[. piperita. For dis-
tilling, and the production of its pecu-
liar oil and water.

Soil and Situation. — These plants are
best grown on a tenacious soil; even a
clay is more suitable to them, than a
light silicious one. It should be mode-
rately fertile, entirely free from stag-
nant moisture, and consequently on a
dry subsoil or well drained. A wet
soil makes them luxuriant in summer.

or situation that is sheltered from the
meridian sun, is always to be allotted
them, as in such they are most vigorous
and constant in production. A com-
partment entirely secluded from the in-
fluence of the sun is, however, equally
unfavourable with one that is too much
exposed.

Time and Mode of Propagation. —
They arc propagated by parting the
roots in February or March, September
or October, and by slips or olfsets at
the same seasons. The mints likewise
may be increased by cuttings of the an-
nual shoots in May or June, as well as
by cuttings of the roots in spring or au-
tumn. For production of green tops
throughout the winter and early spring,
the spearmint is often planted in a hot-
bed, and more rarely pennyroyal, every
three weeks during October and three
following months.

Planting in the open ground at what-
ever seasons, or by whatever mode,
should if possible be performed in
showery weather, or water must be
given plentifully, especially to cuttings.
If propagated by divisions of the root,
they must be inserted in drills two
inches deep; if by slips or cuttings,
they must be five or six inches in
length, and their lower half being di-
vested of leaves, planted to that depth
in every instance, being set in rows ten
inches apart each way.

The only after cultivation required
is the constant destruction of weeds,
which are peculiarly injurious.

After July, the produce of green tops
is of little value; they should therefore
be allowed then to advance to flower,
which they will produce towards the
beginning of September, when they are
in the fit state for gathering, either for
drying or distilling. In either case the
stalks should be cut just previously to
the flower opening. At the close of
September or beginning of October, the
stems must be cut down as close as
possible, the weeds cleared entirely
away, and a little fine fresh mould
spread over them. The beds should
never be allowed to coniinue longer
than four years ; by constant gathering,
the plants not only become weakened,
but the roots becoming matted and
greatly increased, produce only numer-
ous diminutive shoots or entirely decay.

Forcing. — For Ibrcing, a moderate

but ensures decay in winter. A border '. hot-bed is necessary, earthed over about

MEN

376

M IC

three inches thick ; in this the roots may j bees, from the disposition of the colours,
be inserted about four inches apart, and i which are, for the most part, yellow,
one fdeep. They are sometimes only orange, and black, but they certainly
protected with mats, but frames are bear a greater resemblance to some of
preferable. If it is inconvenient to con- ^ the bots ; from bees they are readily
struct a bed purposely, they may be distinguished by having only two wings,
planted in pots and plunged in any bed the horns and proboscis are totally dif-
already in operation, or be set on the ferent, and they have no stings,
side of the stove. The temperature " Bulbs are affected by these maggots,
should never vary beyond the extremes j and they are readily detected by their
of 70' and 80°. ! not throwing out leaves; v^hen, there-

MENTZELIA. Four species. Stove, fore, a bulb fails to vegetate, it ought to
green-house, and hardy perennials. M. ' be immediately dug up and destroyed."
Cutting

— Gard. Chron

MERTENSIA. Eight species. Har-
Three species and } dy herbaceous perennials. Division.
Hardy deciduous or j They thrive best in sandy peat.

__■ Three

aspera, a half-hardy annual
Sandy loam and peal

MENZIESIA ~
many varieties,
evergreen shrubs. Layers. Sandy peat.

MERENDERA caucasica. Har-
dy bulbous perennial. Seeds or offsets.
Light loam.

MERL\NIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Half-ripe cuttings.
Sandy peat and loam.

MERODON narcissi. Narcissus Fly.
Of this insect we have the following par-
ticulars by Mr. Curtis ; —

" In the month of November, one or
two large roundish holes are sometimes
found on the outsides of the bulbs of
the Daffodil, which are more or less
decayed within, where a maggot will
generally be found, which by feeding in
the heart during the summer and autumn
months, has been the sole author of the
mischief.

" This larva is somewhat like the
flesh-maggot, and not unlike a bot, only
that it is not serrated with spines, and
instead of being whitish, its natural
colour, is changed to brown by its living
amongst the slimy matter which has
been discharged from its own body,
causing the gradual rotting of the bulb.

" Towards the end of November, the
maggot is transformed into a pupa, to
accomplish which it eats its way out of

mp:seimbryanthemum.

hundred and seventeen species, and
many varieties. Chiefly green-house
evergreen shrubs; many are trailing
plants, some annuals and herbaceous
perennials. M. christallinum and M.
cultratum are hardy. Cuttings. Sandy
loam.

MESPILUS. Medlar. Two species
and eight varieties. Hardy deciduous
trees. M. germanica stricta is ever-
green. Budding or grafting on the
common hawthorn or pear, or seeds.
Common soil. See Medlar.

MESSERSCHMIDIA. Four species.
Stove evergreens. M. hirsutissima, a
tree, the rest climbers. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

MESSUA ferrea. Stove evergreen
tree. Seeds or cuttings. Strong loam,
peat, and sand.

METALASIA. Four species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. San-
dy peat and loam.

METEOROLOGY. See Weather.

METROSIDEROS. Sixspecies.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. M. ve-
rus, a stove evergreen tree. Cuttings.
Loam, peat, and sand.

MEXICAN TIGER FLOWER. Ti-

the bulb near the roots, and -buries it- gridia pavonia.

self in the surrounding earth. The INIICE. Various plans have been

pupa; are dull brown, elliptical, rough, suggested to preserve peas and beans,

and strongly wrinkled. In this state

they remain until the following spring,

when the flies issue from their tombs.

Their eggs are then deposited, but upon

■what part of the plant they are laid,

has not been observed, but probably

upon the bulb near the base of the

leaves. April seems to be the month

when most of the flies hatch ; and they

when sown, from the ravages of mice.
We believe, we have tried them all.
Dipping the seeds in oil, and then roll-
ing them in powdered resin ; putting
small pieces of furze in the drills and
over the rows after the seed has been
sown, but before covering with the
earth — were both partially successful,
but the mode attended with the most

have been compared to small humble- complete safety, has always been that

MIC

37?

M IL

of covering the surface of the soil over i flowers of which are to be pinched off
the rows, to the depth of full an inch, | as often as they appear during the
and six inches wide, with finely sifted j first season. It must be repotted as
coal ashes. The mice will not scratch ' occasion may require; the lower shoots
through this, and it has the additional ; must be removed in autumn, and the
advantage, by its black colour absorbing plant must be kept during winter in a
the solar heat, of promoting the early i room or green-house above the freezing

vegetation of the crop.

MICHAELMAS DAISY. Aster. '

MICHAUIA. Two species. Hardy
biennials. Seeds. Rich loam.

MICHELIA rhampaca. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Light loam.

MICONIA. Fourteen species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

M I C R A N T H E M U M orbiculafum.
Half hardy evergreen trailer. Division.
Sandv peat.

MICROCALA. Two species. Hardy
annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

MICROLOMA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen climbers. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

MICROMERIA. Eight species, and
a few varieties. Cliietly half-hardy ever.-
green shrubs. Ciillings. Common soil.

MICROPERA. Two species. M.
banksii, a green-house tuberous-rooted
perennial. M. pallida, a stove orchid.
Offsets. Rich mould.

MICROTIS. Three species. Half-
hardy tuberous-rooted orchids. Divi-
sion. Loam and peat.

MIDGE. See Cecidomyia and Sciara.

MIGNONETTE. Reseda odorata.

Soil. — Light loam, well drained, and
manured with leaf-mould.

Solving in the open ground from the
end of April to the beginning of July
will produce a sure succession of blooms
through the year. If allowed to seed
and the soil suits it, mignonette will

point. The second season it may be
treated in a similar manner, and the
next year it may be allowed to bloom,
which, with care, it will continue to do
for several years." — Gard. Chron.

MIKANIA. Five species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Light
rich soil.

MILDEW, whether on the stems of
the wheat, or on the leaves of the
chrysanthemum, pea, rose^ or peach,
appears in the form of minute fungi,
the roots of which penetrate the pores
of the epidermis, rob the plant of its
juices, and interrupt its respiration.
There seems to me every reason to be-
lieve that the fungus is communicated
to the plants from the soil. Every
specimen of these fungi emits annually
myriads of minute seeds, and these are
wafted over the soil by every wind,
vegetating and reproducing seed, if
they have happened to be deposited in a
favourable place, or remaining until the
following spring without germinating.
These fungi have the power of spread-
ing also by stooling or throwing out off-
sets. They are never absent from a
soil, afld at some period of its growth
are annually to be found upon the
plants liable to their inroads. They are
more observed in cold, damp, muggy
seasons, because such seasons are pe-
culiarly favourable to the growth of all
fungi. The best of all cures is a
weak solution of common salt and wa-

continue to propagate itself. If not al- ! ter sprinkled over the foliage of the
lowed to ripen its seed, the same plants j plant affected by the aid of a painter's
will bloom for two or more seasons, ] brush, or impelled by a syringe. Dis-
being a perennial in its native country, solve three ounces of the salt in each

For Pot Culture and the production
of flowers to succeed those of the open
ground plants, sow once in August, and
again in September. The soil as above,
well drained and pressed into forty-eight
pots : cover the seed a fourth of an inch.
Thin the seedlings to three in a pot.
Water sparingly. When mignonette is

gallon of water, and repeat the applica-
tion on two or three successive days,
applying it during the evening. Nitre
has been employed with similar success,
using one ounce to each gallon. Uredo
rosce, Puccinin rosie, and Cladosproium
herharum, are the mildew fungi of the
rose tree : Oidium crysiphoides of the

deficient of perfume, it is because the I peach tree ; and Erysiphe communis of
temperature is too low.

Tree mignonette. — Dr. Lindley says,
" That this is obtained by selecting and
potting a vigorous young plant, the

the pea. Of course there are many
others.

MILFOIL. Achillea.

MILLA. Two species.

Half-hardy

MI L

378

MIX

bulbous perennials. Offsets. Sandy
loam.

MILLINGTONIA simplidfolia.
Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

MILLIPEDE. See Julus.

MILTONIA. Three species. Stove
orchids. Mr. Paxton says, " that to
propagate them, the stems should be
cut half through, young plants are then
emitted ; cut through the stem quite,
a montii before separating the young
plants ; plant in rough peat and pot-
sherds."

MIMETES. Eight species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings.
Light turfy loam.

MIMOSA. Twenty-two species.
Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs. M.
pudica, an annual. M. viva, an her-
baceous perennial. Young cuttings.
Loam, peat, and sand.

MIMULUS. Seventeen species.
Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials

MITE. Acarus.

MITELLA. Five species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division. Peaty
soil.

MITRASACME. Three species.
M. canescens, a green-house herbaceous
perennial ; the other two annuals.
Seeds. Sandy peat and loam.

MIXTURE OF SOILS is one of the
most ready and cheapest modes of im-
proving their staple, and thus render-
ing them more ferlile ; and upon the
subject I have nothing to add to the
following excellent remarks of my bro-
ther, Mr. Cuthbert Johnson : —

" I have witnessed even in soils to
all appearance similar in composition,
some very extraordinary results from
their mere mixture. Thus in the gra-
velly soils of Spring Park, near Croy-
don, the ground is often excavated to a
depth of many feet, through strata of
barren gravel and red sand, for the
purpose of obtaining the white or silver

increased by division or seed. Com- j sand, which exists beneath them. When

this fine sand is removed, the gravel
and red sand is thrown back into the
pit, the ground merely levelled, and
then either let to cottagers for gardens,
or planted with forest trees ; in either
case the effect is remarkable; all kinds
of either fir or deciduous trees will now
vegetate with remarkable luxuriance ;
and in the cottage garden thus formed,
several species of vegetables, such as
beans and potatoes, will produce very
excellent crops, in the very soils in
which they would have perished pre-
vious to their mixture. The permanent
advantage of mixing soils, too, is not
confined to merely those entirely of

mon soil. The green-house and half-
hardy species require a light rich soil,
and increase by cuttings. The annuals,
seeds. Common soil.

MIMUSOPS. Six species. Stove
evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Light
loamy soil, or loam and peat.

MINT. See Mentha.

MIRABILIS. Five species and
several varieties. Green-house fusiform
rooted perennials. Seeds. Light rich
soil.

MERBELIA. Six species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Loam, peat, and sand.

MISLETOE {Viscum album) is some

times required to be introduced upon the an earthy composition ; — earths which
trees of the shrubbery, and other parts j contain inert organic matter, such as

of the pleasure ground. The easiest
and best way to propagate it is by
placing ripe seeds on the smooth
branches of the common apple, pear,
or white thorn, in February or March,
without in any way damaging the bark
on which they are placed. The seeds
should be fixed on the under side of
the branch, as there they are shaded,
and more likely to escape being eaten
by birds when they begin to vegetate.
Misletoe may be grafted on the apple
tree : but success is so precarious, that
few succeed at present. — Gard. Chron.
MITCHELLA repens. Hardy herba-
ceous creeper; increased by cuttings
of the stem. Peat, or peat and sand.

peat or moss earth, are highly valuable
additions to some soils. Thus, peat
earth was successfully added to the
sandy soils of Merionethshire, by Sir
Robert Vaughan. . The Cheshire farm-
ers add a mixture of moss and cal-
careous earth to their tight-bound
earths, the effect of which they de-
scribe as having ' a loosening opera-
tion ;' that is, it renders the soil of
their strong clays less tenacious, and,
consequently, promotes the ready ac-
cess of the moisture and gases of the
atmosphere to the roots. The culti-
vator sometimes deludes himself with
the conclusion that applying sand, or
marl, or clay, to a poor soil, merely

MOE

379

M 0 N

serves to freshen it for a time, and that talpa is known also in England as the

the effects of such applications are ap
parent for only a limited period. Some
comparative experiments, however,
which were made sixteen years since,
on some poor, hungry, inert heath land
in Norfolic, have up to this time served
to demonstrate the error of such a con-
clusion. In these experiments, the
ground was marled with twenty cuhic
yards only per acre, and the same com-
post; it was then planted with a proper
mixture of forest trees, and by the side
of it, a portion of the heath, in a state
of nature, was also planted with the
same mixture of deciduous and fir
trees.

Sixteen years have annually served

churr-worm, jarr-worm, eve chiirr, and
earth crab. It is, occasionally, very
destructive to culinary vegetables;
creeping under ground through holes
it digs. It attains a length of two
inches, is dark brown, and resembles
in most respects the common cricket.
Mr. Kollar thus describes its habits : —
" The female hollows out a place for
herself in the earth, about half a foot
from the surface, in the month of June,
and lays her eggs in a heap, which
often contains from two to three hun-
dred. They are shining yellowish
brown, and of the size and shape of a
grain of millet. This hollow place is
of the shape of a bottle gourd, two

to demonstrate, by the luxuriance of ; inches long, and an inch deep, smooth
the marled wood, the permanent effects i within, and having on one side a wind-
produced by this mixture of soils. The | ing communication with the surface of
growth of the trees has been there ; the earth. The young, which are hatch-
rapid and permanent; but on the ad- I ed in July or August, greatly resemble
joining soil, the trees have been stunted j black ants, and feed, like the old ones.

their growth, miserable in appear
ance, and profitless to their owner.

" Another, but the least commonly
practiced mode of improving the staple
of a soil by earthy addition, is claying ;
a system of fertilizing, the good eti'ects
of which are much less immediately
apparent than chalking, and hence one

on the tender roots of grass, corn, and
various culinary vegetables. They be-
tray their presence under the earth by
the withered decay of culinary vegeta-
bles in the garden. In October and
November they bury themselves deep-
er in the earth, as a protection from
cold, and come again to the surlace in

of the chief causes of its disuse. It | the warmer days in March. Their pre-

rcquires some little time to elapse, and
some stirring of the soil, before the
clay is so well mixed with a sandy soil,
as to produce that general increased
attraction and retentive power for the
atmospheric moisture, which ever con-
stitutes the chief good result of claying
poor soils. Clay must be moreover ap-
plied in rather larger proportions to the
soil tlian chalk ; for not only is its ap-
plication rarely required as a direct
food for plants for the mere alumina
which it contains ; since this earth en-
ters into the composition of plants in
very small proportion, but there is also
another reason for a more liberal addi-
tion of clay being required, which is
the impure state in which the alumina
exists in what are commonly called clay
soils." — Farm. Encyc.

M 0 E R H I N G I A , Two species.

sence is discovered by their throwing
up the earth like moles.

" The surest and most efficacious of
remedies is, without doubt, destroying
the brood in June or July. Practised
gardeners know from experience where
the nest of the mole cricket is situated ;
tliey dig it out with their spades, and
destroy hundreds in the egg state with
little trouble." — KoUar.

MOLINERIA plicata. Stove herba-
ceous perennial. Division. Peat and
loam.

MOLUCCA BALM. Moluccella.

MOLUCCELLA. Three species.
Hardy annuals. M. tuberosa,a. tuberous-
rooted perennial. Seeds. Common soil.

MONACIIANTHUS. Monk's-jlower.
Four species. Stove epiphytes. Divi-
sion. Wood.

MONARDA. Seven species. Hardy

Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. , herbaceous perennials. Division. Coni-
Sand, loam, and peat.

MOIST STOVE. See Stove.

MOLDAV' I.\N BALM. DracoccpAa- I green shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

mon soil.

MONETIA harlerioides. Stove cver-

lum moldavicum.
MOLE CRICKET.

MONEYWORT.
Gryllus gryllo- j laria.

Dioscorea nummu-

MON

380

MOT

Lysimachia num.-
Taverniera num-

MONEYWORT.
Thularia.
MONEYWORT.

mularia.

MONK'S FLOWER. Monachanthus.

MONK'S HOOD. Aconihim.

MONNINA obtusifolia. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings or seed.
Peat and loam.

MONOPSIS conspicva. Hardy an-
nual. Seeds. Peat and Sand.

MONOSCHILUS gloxinifolia. Stove
tuberous-rooted perennial. Division.
Peat and loam.

MONOTAXIS simplex. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings
loam.

MONOTOCA. Four species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy peat.

MONSONIA. Four species. Green-
house herbaceous perennials. M. ovata,
a biennial, is increased by seed ; the
others, cuttings or division. Turfy loam
and leaf mould.

MONTEZUMA speciosissima. Stove
evergreen tree. Half-ripened cuttings.
Loam and peat.

MOON-SEED. Menispermum.

MOON- WORT. Botrychium.

MOR.^A. Twenty species. Green-
house bulbous perennials. Division.
Sandy Peat.

MORENOA. Three species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

MORICANDIA arvcnsis. Hardy bi-
ennial. Seed. Common soil.

MORINA. Two species. Green-
house or half-hardy herbaceous peren-
nials. Seed. Light rich soil.

MORINDA. Five species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat. M.jasminoides is a green-house
evergeen climber.

MORISIA hypogcea. Hardy herba-
ceous perennial. Seed. Light loam.

MORISONIA americana. Stove ever-
green tree. Ripe cuttings
peat.

MORMODES. Five species,
epiphytes. Division. Wood.

M 6 R N A. Two species. Green-
house annuals. Seeds. Sandy peat
and leaf mould.

MORRENL^ odorata. Green-house
evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Rich
mould.

MORUS. Mulberry. Nine species,
and many varieties. Chiefly hardy de-

ciduous trees ; a few are stove ever-
greens. Layers. A loamy soil and a
moist situation. See Mulberry.

MOSCHARIAp?Mno<//ida. Hardy an-
nual. Seeds. Common soil.
MOSCHATEL. Adoxa.
MOSCHOSMA. Two species. Stove
annuals. Seeds. Light rich soil.

MOSS is useful to the gardener for
packing round the roots of plants ; and
even some bulbous roots have been cul-
tivated in it ; but when it infests the
trunks of trees, or our lawns, it is one
of the gardener's pests.

" Moss only attacks lawns, the soil of
Peat and ' which is unable to support a greensward
of grass. When soil is exhausted,
grasses begin to die off, and their place
is taken by moss. The obvious mode,
then, of proceeding, is to give the lawn
a good top-dressing in winter, either of
malt-dust, or nitrate of soda, or soot,
or any other manure containing an
abundance of alkali. The gardener
finds the growth of moss arrested by
frequent raking in wet weather, or by
the application of pounded oyster-shells;
but these are mere palliatives, and not
remedies. Make your grass healthy,
and it will soon smother the moss." —
Gard. Chron.

The most effectual, most salutary,
and least disagreeable remedy for moss
on trees is of trivial expense, and which
a gardener need but try upon one indi-
vidual to insure its adoption. It is with
a hand scrubbing brush, dipped in a
strong brine of common salt, as often
as necessary to insure each portion of
the bark being moistened with it, to
scrub the trunks and branches of his
trees at least every second year. It
most effectually destroys insects of all
kinds, and moss ; and the stimulating
influence of the application, and the
friction, are productive of the most
beneficial effects. The expense is not
so much as that of dressing the trunks
Loam and j with a solution of lime, which, how-
ever efficient in the destruction of moss,
is not so in the removal of insects — is
highly injurious to the trees, by filling
up the respiratory pores of the epider-
mis, and is decidedly a promoter of
canker. On gravel walks, a strong so-
lution of sulphate of copper (blue vitriol)
has been found the most effectual de-
stroyer of moss.
MOTH. Verhascum Blattaria.
MOTHERWORT. Leonurus.

Stove

MOT

381

M U L

MOTHS, of most kinds, are the pa- roots of a plant are injured, and the
rents of caterpillars preying upon some moister thev are kept during its re-
plant under the gardener's care, and nioval, the less does it sutfcr by the
should be destroyed whenever disco- transplanting. The best of all muds
vered.

MOULDLXESS is the common term
applied to that crop of fungi whicli
appears on moist putrescent vegetable
matters. These fungi are Mucorcs,

for the purpose is formed of three
pounds of garden soil, one ounce of
salt, eiglit ounces of soot, and one
gallon of water.

MILBKRRY. Morus nigra. The

and are effectually destroyed whenever Black, or Garden Mulberry.

common salt or lime can be applied.

MOUNTAIN ASH. Pyrus Aucupa-
ria.

MOUSE TAIL. Dendrobium Myo-
surus.

MOUSE THORN. Centaurea Mya-
cantha.

JIOVING PLANT. Desmodium gy-
7-ans. I

MOWING is, next to digging, the
most laborious of the gardener's em-

Soiland Site. — The soil most suitable
for the mulberry is a rich, deep, and
rather light loam, not cold nor wet,
but well drained. It succeeds best as
a standard, in a well-sheltered situa-
tion, open to the south. It may be
trained also against a south wall with
advantage in a cold climate, but re-
quires much space. — Card. Chron.

Propagation — by Seed — is rarely
practised, the seedlings varying in

ployments ; and requires much practice, quality, and being long before they

as well as an extremely sharp scythe, bear fruit. Sow in a warm border,

before he can attain to the art of shav- during March, in drills half an inch

ing the lawn or grass plot smoothly deep. Give moderate waterings in dry

and equally. A mowing machine has
been invented by Mr. Budding and
others, and is represented in this out-
Fig. 101.

weather to the seedlings, and shelter
by mats during cold nights. They re-
quire remaining two years in the seed
bed, and then four in the nursery, be-
fore they are fit for final planting.

By Layers. — To obtain these in large
quantities, some mulberry trees should
be headed down near to the ground, to
induce lateral shoots for layering. —
Where only a few are wanted, pots of
earth may be raised to the branches.
See Layering and Circumposition.

Grafting and Budding — may be
practised, taking any species of the
genus Morua for the stock. Grafting
is more difficult of success than bud-
line. It cuts, collects, and rolls the ding, and Mr. Knight recommends

grass at the same time.

rafting by approach as the only cer-

Mowing is most easily performed tain mode,
whilst the blades of grass are wet, as By Cuttings. — Mr. Knight recom-
thcy then cling to the scythe, and are mends cuttings five inches in length,
consequently erect against its cutting having two-thirds of their length two-
edge. The operation, therefore, should year old wood, and one-third yearling
be performed early in the morning, be- wood, to be planted in November, be-
fore the dew has evaporated, or whilst neath a south wall. In March, move
the grass is wet from rain or artificial them into pots, leaving only one bud

watering. See Scythe.

uncovered, and plunge in a moderate

MUDDING or Puddling, is dipping hot-bed. Shade during bright weather,
the roots of trees, shrubs, and seedlings and success is almost unfailing. A
in a thin mud or puddle, and retaining more simple and expeditious mode is
them there until again planted, when- the following, but whether it is gene-
ever they are removed. It is one of rally successful I am unable to state : —
the best aids to success, and should be | " Lop off a straight branch, at least
universally adopted, lor it is a rule eight feet long, from a large tree, in
without exception, that the less the March, the nearer the trunk the better;

MUL

382

MUS

clear away every little branch, and
leave it quite bare; dig a hole four feet
deep, plant the naked branch and make
it firm in the ground; leave around it a
little basin of earth to hold water, and
if the season be dry, give it every
morning a bucketfuil of water through-
out the summer. In two years it will
have made a good head, and will bear
fruit." — Gard. Chron.

Pruning. — Standards do not require
pruning, further than to remove the
dead wood and irregular growths. On
walls and as espaliers train in all the
lateral annual shoots, for near the ends
of these next year is the fruit mostly pro-
duced, and pinch off all foreright un-
fruitful buds as they are produced. In
training, always make the branches
descend below the horizontal.

Forcing. — The mulberry bears forc-
ing excellently, and will ripen its fruit
early in June. It will bear a very high
temperature. It may also be grown of
a dwarf size in pots, and be thus
forced.

MULCHING, is placing mulch, or
long moist stable litter, upon the sur-
face of the soil, over the roots of newly
planted trees and shrubs. The best
mode is to form a trench about six
inches deep, to put in the mulch, and
cover it with the earth. This prevents
the mulch being dried or scattered by
the winds, and is more neat than ex-
posing it on the surface. Mulching
keeps the moisture from evaporating,
and prevents frost penetrating to the
roots, straw being one of the worst
conductors of heat.

MULE or Hybrid, is a plant raised
from seed generated by parents of dis-
tinct species, and consequently un-
fertile. See Hybridizing.

M U L L E R A moniliforinis. Stove
evergreen tree. Young cuttings. —
Loam and peat.

MULTIPLICATE FLOWER. See
Double Flower.

MUNDIA spinosa, and its variety.
Green-house and evergreen fruit shrubs.
Young cuttings. Sandy peat.

IMUNTINGIA cnlahura. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light
loamy soil.

MURALTIA. Fourteen species. —
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings. Sandy peat.

MURRAY A. Two species. Stove

tree. Ripe cuttings, with their leaves.
Turfy loam and peat.

MURUCUYA. Two species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

MUSA. The Banana and Plantain
belong to this genus, of which there
are ten species. Stove iierbaceous
perennials. Suckers. Rich soil. The
most valuable of the species is M.
cavendishii; and upon its culture, and
upon that of the whole genus, we have
the following observations by Mr. W.
Buchan, gardener at Blithfield : —

" To bring musas to a high state of
perfection, they should be grown in a
house entirely devoted to them. It
may have a ' ridge and furrow' roof,
nearly flat, and should be divided into
pits about two feet six inches square,
in order to grow the plants separately,
so that when they have done fruiting,
each may be removed and replaced
without disturbing its neighbour. The
stem of this musa seldom attains a
greater height under the most favoura-
ble culture than six feet; and allowing
two feet for the expansion of its foliage,
a house ten feet high in front and twelve
feet in the back, with sliding lights in
the front and ends, would suit it admi-
rably. But it may be easily fruited,
and with good success, in a pit where
there is sufficient height without crowd-
ing the leaves.

" The soil which suits all kinds of
musa best is a mixture of half rotten
dung and half sandy loam, with about
one-fourth sandy peat, well mixed to-
gether. The pits or tubs, in which
latter M. cavendishii may also be
fruited, should be well drained, as the
plant requires to be supplied liberally
with water at the root when growing.

" They should never cease growing,
and never be allowed to want heat and
moisture from the time they are planted
in the pit or tub, until the fruits have
attained their full size. A strong moist
heat, never below 75'^ or 80° Fahren-
heit, should be constantly kept up ; the
plants frequently syringed over head,
and exposed to full light, without any
shade. This should be continued until
the fruits are set and have attained
their full size, taking care, however,
not to wet the flowering plants. Young
healthy plants will throw up their fruit
in nine or ten months after being

evergreens; one a shrub, the other a planted out, if treated as above; and

MUS

383

MUS

as soon as all the fertile flowers are set,
the end of the spadix, an inch or two
above the last tier of perfectly set fruit,
should be cut otT. When the upper
tier of fruit on the spike begins to
change colour, totally discontinue wa-
ter, both at the root and over head." —
Gard. Chron.

bulbous perennials. Offsets. Sandy
loam.

MUSHROOM. Agaricus campestris.
To produce mushrooms artificially, beds
variously constructed are employed.

Times of forming the Beds. — Beds
may be constructed I'rom .Tanuary until
the beginning of May, for spring and sum-

M. coccinea. The cultivation of this mer production; and from .July to the
species is thus detailed by Mr. G. Wat- close of the year, for autumn and winter.

son, gardener at Norton Vicarage:

;™

Construction. — A bed is usually con-

" In the latter part of February, plant "tructed of stable dung, &c., prepared
in pots five or six inches in diameter, \ as already directed for cucumbers. It
well drained, and the drainage covered [ is made in the form of the roof of a
with a little moss. Plunge the pots into house, four or tive feet wide at the base,
a bottom heat between 60'^ and 70'^. narrowing to an apex, which should be
Water freely, but give no more water rather rounded, three or four feet high,

and the length from ten to fifty feet.
The dung being laid in alternate rows,
with clayey loam, from which the largest
stones have been sorted ; each layer of
dung to be a foot thick, and of loam
four inches, so that three layers of each
will be sufficient to complete the requi-

than the jdants can take up from the so

As soon as the pot is filled with roots,

shift the plant into a pot a size larger.

After it has filled this pot with roots, a

final shifting into a pot at least sixteen

inches in diameter may be given, and

two or three suckers may then be left

on the plant, which will succeed the site height. The dung must be well

centre or principal plant in blooming.
At this last shifting, pot as many suckers
in the same way as may be required for
succession plants. The plant is grow-
ing vigorously in this pot; cover the
surface of the soil with moss, and place
the pot in a shallow pan of water, and
water it at least once or twice a day. I
continue to keep the plant growing till
November, after which I gradually get
it into a dormant state, by withholding
water during winter. It is allowed to
remain dry till the soil separates from
the edge of the pot, and may thus be
kept in a cool green-house till spring.
The suckers taken ofl" at the last pot-
tings, after being shifted into pots ten
inches in diameter, and thrown into a
dormant state at the same time as the
old plant, will not only be much better
■wintered in the green-house, but will
flower much earlier. In those parts
where suckers are left on the mother
plant, the centre will bloom by the be-
ginning of May, and the suckers will
flower in succession during the latter
end of July and August, the latest

separated and mixed, and beat, but not
trod down. When completed, the bed
must be covered with litter or other
light covering, to keep out the wet, as
well as to prevent its drying; clean dry
straw will do, but sweet hay, or matting,
is to be preferred.

Situation. — The bed should be mado
in a dry sheltered situation, and on the
level ground in preference to founding
it in a trench, which prevents the spawn-
ing being performed completely at the
bottom, and guards against the settling
of water, which may chill it. If the site
is not dry, it must be covered with
stones, clinkers, &c., to act as a drain ;
for nothing destroys mushrooms sooner
than excessive moisture, except an ex-
treme of heat or cold. To obviate the
occurrence of these unfavourable cir-
cumstances, it is by far more preferable
to construct it under a shed. If it is
constructed in a shed, it may be built
against one side, sloping downwards
from it. To proceed with greater cer-
tainty during the winter, a fire flue may
pass beneath the bed; but it is by no

flowers keeping fine till Christmas. In- ' means absolutely necessary, for by the
stead of taking off suckers in the spring, I due regulation of covering, it may
leave two or three on the mother plant ' always he keptof sufficient temperature.

till July, then take them off, and treat
them in the same manner as the succes-
sion plants of the previous year." —
Gard. Cliron.
MUSCARI. Eleven species. Hardy

Management . — The spawn must not
be inserted before the temperature has
become moderate.

Temperature. — The minimum is 50'^,
and the maximum Co". Insert the

MUS

384

MUS

spawn as soon as the violence of the I tention to the fire, and in admitting fresh
heat has abated, which it will in two or I air as it may be required. The house
three weeks, though sometimes it will 1 is heated by open tanks, which run

subside in eight or ten days.
Spawning. — The large

through the centre of it, and which re-
lumps of! turn again into the boiler, giving out a

spawn, being broken into moderately ' sufficient quantity of moisture for the
small pieces, are to be planted on both ! necessary development and growth of
sides of the bed and ends, if it is hip- ' the mushroom. During night, the
ped; each fragment just beneath the grassy turf becomes copiously loaded

surface of the dung, in rows six or eight
inches apart each way. Some gardeners
erroneously scatter the spawn irregular-

with moisture ; and should the foil ow-
I ing day prove fine, I never omit giving
abundance of fresh air by the doorway.

ly over the surface. Fine rich loam, j The temperature of the house ranges

rather light than otherwise, is tlien to be
put on, two inches deep, the stones
being carefully separated. Some gard-
eners, endeavouring to imitate the natu-
ral mode of growth, spread an inch in
depth of mould over the beds, in which
they set the spawn, and gently cover it
with half an inch more. Others lay a
ledge of mould, four inches high, and
two thick, all round the bed ; upon this
close to the dung, they lay the spawn ;
then a second ledge, six inches, of
similar thickness, on this they set an-
other row of spawn, and so proceed
until the bed is finished ; but this has no
advantage over the first mode described,
and is much more tedious. Lastly, a
covering of straw, six or twelve inches
thick, according to the temperature, is
to be laid on, and continued constantly.
When the earthing is finished, the sur-

from 60^ to 6o^ during the day, and at
night it is frequently allowed to fall as
low as temperate.

" The great advantage of growing
the mushroom upon fresh grassy turf is
obvious to any one accustomed lo its
cultivation. I have been in the habit
of growing it, and with great success,
upon coal refuse for the last two years;
and at present I have two boxes at
work, one covered with coal dust, the
other with turf; the produce of these
shows the relative advantage of the two
methods, for although those from the
coal dust are large and of good fiavour,
they are decidedly inferior in both re-
spects to those produced by the grass
covered beds; indeed, such is the supe-
riority of the latter, that if the mush-
rooms from both beds were gathered,
and mixed indiscriminately, any one

face must be gently smoothed with the 1 could, without difficulty, select those

back of the spade, which fixes it pro-
perly, and if in the open air throws oft"
any excessive rain. If, after the bed has
been spawned and covered up, the heat
appears to be renewed in any consider-
able degree, the greatest part of the
covering must be removed, but restored

grown upon the turf from those raised
on the beds covered with the small
coal." — Gard. Chron.

In four or five weeks after spawning,
in spring and autumn, the bed should
begin to produce, but not until much
later in summer and winter ; and if kept

again during rain, if the bed is not under I dry and warm, will continue to do so

cover; and to guard against this con-
tingency it is a good practice to mould
over only two-thirds of the bed at first,
leaving the top uncovered to serve as a
vent for the heat and steam, but when
all danger is passed it may then be com-
pleted.

Mr. Haukin, gardener to Capt. Nut-
ford, thus completes his preparations:

for several months.

A gathering may take place two or
three times a week, according to the
productiveness of the bed. It some-
times happens that beds will not come
into production for five or six months ;
they should not therefore be impatiently
destroyed.

Watering. — In autumn, the bed will

— " In about a week or ten days after- : not require water until the first crop is
wards, I finish off the beds with green gathered, but it is then to be repeated
turf, one inch and a half in thickness, I after every gathering; a sprinkling only
making the beds in my boxes, in all j is necessary. In spring and summer,
about nine inches in depth. I beat down during dry weather, the same course is
the turf very firmly with the back of a to be pursued. As excessive or un-
spade ; in finishing afterwards, I have 1 equal moisture is studiously to be
no farther trouble except in paying at- 1 avoided, the best mode of applying the

MUS

385

MUS

water is to pour it through a rose pan lightly with straw, but not otherwise.
on to a thin layer of hay, which has The warm showers of the ensuing spring
previously been spread over the bed, , will again cause an abundant produc-
and thus allowed to percolate by de- ; tion, as also in the autumn, if left; but
grees. In winter, waterings are not al- the beds are generally broken up for
lowable; to keep the mould moist, hot the sake of the dung, and the spawn
fermenting mulch may be put on outside collected and dried,
the covering. If the bed is in the open Hampers or bo.xes containing about
ground, in a warm day succeeding to wet i four inches depth of fresh, dry stable
weather, it may be left uncovered for not dung, or, in preference, of a mixture of
more than two or three hours. During three barrow loads of horse dung, and
excessive rains, the additional covering one perfectly dry cow dung, well pressed
of mats, &c., must be atforded ; and on in, may be set in some situation, where
the other hand, if a moderate warm , neither damp nor frost can enter. After
shower occurs during summer after ex- two or three days, or as soon as heat is
cessive droughts, it may be fully admit- generated, the spawn may be inserted,

ted, by taking off the coverino

a mushroom brick to be broken into

Mode uf Gathering. — In gathering, three equal parts, and each fragment to
the covering being carefully turned oil", be laid lour inches asunder, on the sur-

only such are to be taken as are half an
inch or more in diameter before they
become Hat, but are compact and firm.
Old mushrooms, especially, should be
rejected 'or the table, as it is found that
some which are innoxious when young,
become dangerous when tending to de-
cay ; they also then lose much of their
flavour.

Each individual is detached by a gen

face of the dung ; after six days an inch
' and a half depth of fresh dung to be beat-
en down as before. In the course of a
fortnight, or as soon as it is found that
the spawn has run nearly through the
whole of the dung, mould must be ap-
plied two inches and a half thick, and
j the surface made level. This mould
[ must be prepared six months before
wanted, by laying alternate layers, of

tie twist completely to the root; a knife ' six inches depth, of fresh stable dung,
must never be employed, for the stumps [ and three inches of light mould, to such
left in the ground decay, and become ' an extent as may be deemed necessary
the nursery of maggots, which are lia- [ for the supply of a year ; in six months

ble to infect the succeeding crop.

the dung will be sufficiently decayed.

Other Modes of Cultivation. — Some [ and the whole may then be broken toge-
gardeners merely vary from the preced- I ther, and passed through a garden sieve
ing by building entirely of dung, with- ' for use. In five or six weeks the mush-
out any layers of earth. Many garden- i rooms will begin to come up, and if the
cars grow muslirooms in the same bed niould appear dry, may then be gently
with their melons and cucumbers. The j watered ; the water being slightly heat-
spawn is inserted in the mould and on i ed. Each box will continue in produc-
tlie I'.ills of the beds, as soon as the j tion six or eight weeks,
burnini; heat is passed. Mr. J. Oldaker, late gardener to the

In September or October, when the I Emperor of Russia, introduced a house
bines of the plant decay, the bed is then purposely constructed for the growth
carefully cleaned, the glasses put on ! of the mushroom. The house is found
and kept close, and when the mould j of great use in storing brocoli during
becomes dry, water is frequently but | the winter. It is usually built against
moderately given, as well as every gen- | the back wall of a forcing house, as in

tie shower admitted when necessary.
A gentle heat is thus caused, and the
produce is extraordinarily abundant, fre-
quently two bushels, from a frame ten
feet by six, and individuals have been
produced two pounds in weight.

Mushrooms are thus produced with-
out any trouble but the giving moderate
waterings untd frost prevents their ve-
getation ; the glasses, if wanted, are
then removed, and the beds covered
25

the annexed plan, but if built uncon-
nected with another building, the only
necessary alteration is to have a hipped
instead of a lean-to roof. The outside
wall, G H, should be eight feet and a
half high for four heights, the width ten
feet within the walls, which is most con-
venient, as it admits shelves three feet
and a half wide on each side, and a
space up the middle three feet wide,
for a double flue, and wall upon it.

MU S

386

M U S

apart, vvith slides, s, to ventilate with
when necessary.

Fig. 102.

When the outside of the house is j the standards. The flue to commence
finished, a floor or ceiling is made over ! at the end of the house next the door,
it, as high as the top of the outside 1 and running the whole length to return
walls, of boards one inch thick, and i back paralleled, and communicate with
plastered on the upper side, e tf, with the chimney; the walls of the insides
road sand, well wrought together, an to be the height of four bricks laid flat,
inch thick; square trunks,/, being leltiand six inches wide; this will allow a
in the ceiling nine inches in diameter,} cavity, f, on each side betwixt the flues,
up the middle of the house, at six feet ; two inches wide, to admit the heat from

their sides into the house. The middle
cavity, x i/, should be covered with tiles,
leaving a space of one inch betwixt each.
The top of the flue, including the co-
vering, should not be higher than the
walls that form the fronts of the floor
beds. The wall itself is covered with
three rows of tiles, the centre one co-
vering the cavity x y, as before men-
tioned, the outside cavities, / t, are left
uncovered.

As the compost, the formation of the
beds, &c., are very difl^erent from the
common practice, I shall give a con-
nected view ofMr. Oldaker's directions.
The compost employed is fresh horse-
dung, which has been subject neither
to wet nor fermentation, cleared of the
long straw, but one-fourth of the short
litter allowed to remain, with one-fourth
of dry turf mould, or other fresh earth :
this enables the bed to be made solid
and compact, which is so congenial to
the growth of mushrooms.

The beds are to be made by placing
a layer of the above compost, three
inches thick, on the shelves and floor,
which must be beat as close as possible
with a flat mallet, fresh layers being
added and consolidated until the bed is
seven inches thick, and its surface as
level as possible. If the beds are
thicker, the fermentation caused will
be too powerful ; or, if much less, the
heat will be insiifticient for the nourish-
ment of the spawn. As soon as the
beds intimate a warmth of 80^ or 90",
they are to be beat a second time to
render them still more solid, and holes
made with a dibble, three inches in
diameter and nine apart, through the
compost, in every part of the beds;
these prevent too great a degree of
heat arising and causing rottenness.

If the beds do not attain a proper
heat in four or five days after being put
together, another layer, two inches
thick, must be added. If this does not
increase the heat, part of the beds must
be removed and fresh horse-droppings
mixed vvith the remainder. The spawn

Two single brick walls, v v, each five
bricks high, are then to be erected at
three feet and a half from the outside
walls, to hold up the sides of the floor
beds, a a, and form at the same time
one side of the air flues. Upon these
walls, V V, are to be laid planks four
inches and a half wide and three inches
thick, in which are to be mortised the
standards, I k, which support the
shelves. These standards to be three
inches and a half square, and four feet
and a half asunder, fastened at the top,
k k, into the ceiling. The cross bearers,
i i,i i, which support the shelves, o o,
must be mortised into the bearers and
into the walls; the first set of bearers
being two feet from the floor, and each
succeeding one to be at the same dis-
tance from the one below it. The
shelves, o o, are to be of boards one
inch and a half thick ; each shelf hav-
ing a ledge in front, of boards one inch
thick, and eight inches deep, to support
the front of the beds, fastened outside

MU S

387

MUS

Mushrooms may be grown in a cellar,
or other vaulted place, with equal suc-
cess, and not unfrequently with a greater
advantage, the same rules being adopt-
ed ; but no fire is necessary, and lees
water.

Heating by Hot-Water. — Instead of
flues, as used by Mr. Oldacker, the fol-
lowing plan, by Mr. Sellers, gardener
to L. V. Watkins, Esq., of Pennoyre,
may be substituted : —

Fig. 103.

is to be inserted in three or four days
after making the holes; when the ther-
mometer indicates the desired degree
of heat, the insides of the holes are
dry; and while the heat is on a decline,
every hole is to be filled, either with
lumps or small fragments well beaten
in, and the surface made level.

In a fortnight, if the spawn is vege-
tating freely, which it will if not dam-
aged by excess of heat or moisture,
and the beds are required for immediate
production, they may be earthed over;
but those for succession left unearthed,
three or four weeks in summer, and
four or five in winter. If the spawn is
introduced in hot weather, air must be
admitted as freely as possible until it
has spread itself through the beds,
otherwise these will become spongy,
and the crop be neither good nor abund-
ant.

The mould employed should be
maiden earth, with turf well reduced ;
neither too dry nor too wet, otherwise it
will not be capable of being beat solid.
It must be laid regularly over the beds
two inches thick. From the time of " This cut represents a section of the
moulding, the room is to be kept at a interior of the house, with three beds
temperature of 50° or 55°. If higher, j for mushrooms, a a a, eighteen feet
it will weaken or destroy the spawn ; I long, and three feet wide, and three
if lower, it will vegetate slowly, and shelves for forcing rhubarb, b b b. If
if watered in that state, numbers of' circumstances permit, these shelves
mushrooms will be prevented attaining may be made wider, and used for mush-
perfection. Water must be applied with rooms. Stones are placed on each side
extreme caution, being nearly as warm i of the passage, at c c, for the standards

as new milk, and sprinkled over the beds
with a syringe or small watering-pot.
Cold water destroys both the crop and
the beds. If suffered to become dry,
it is better to give several light than
one heavy watering.

Beds thus managed will bear for

to be placed on which support the
bearers of the shelves, and mortised at
d d. The stones should be about six
inches square on the surface, and three
inches thick ; and the standards about
three inches and a half square.

" When the slaiuiards and cross-

several months; and a constant supply I bearers are fixed, the shelves maybe
kept up by earthing one bed or more j formed by laying along the latter boards

every two or three months

If, when in full production, the mush-
rooms become long-stemmed and weak,
the temperature is certainly too high, and
air must be proportionately admitted.
As the beds decline, to renovate them,
the earth must be taken off clean, and
if the dung is decayed they must be re-
formed, any good spawn being preserv-
ed that may appear; but if the beds

one inch and a half thick; and it will
be convenient, when removing or put-
ting fresh dung, if a board eight inches
broad and one inch thick is placed be-
hind the standard at i, or cut so as to
come flush with it.

"When the shelves are fixed, a
trench, nine inches deep, is made in
the passage, m I vi, for the reception of
the pipes ; on each side this trench a

are dry, solid, and full of good spawn, i brick-wall, i i, is built, to prevent rub-
a fresli layer of compost, three or four ; bish from falling in. The bottom of
inches thick, must be added, mixed a : the trench must be puddled with clay,
little with the old, and beat solid as ! so that the water thrown on the pipes
before. l will not escape.

MUS

388

MUS

" The pipes used are about one inch
and a half bore, and they are laid in the
trench three inches apart; a wooden
trellis is placed over them, resting on
the brick walls i i, and forms a path.

" When the mushrooms want steam-
ing, it is only necessary to take a fine
rose watering-pot, and sprinkle the
pipes with it till the steam arises so
thick that objects cannot be seen at the
further end of the house. Steaming is
better than watering over head for
mushrooms, as much water is injurious
to the spawn. — Gard. Chron.

Spawn, where to be found. — Spawn is
constituted of masses of white fibres
arising from the seeds of mushrooms
that have fallen into situations suilalile
for their germination, from which it is
to be obtained : such places are stable
dung-hills, dungy horse-rides in stable-
yards, horse mill-tracks, dry spongy
composts : the droppings of hard-fed
horses also produce it in greater abund-
ance than the dung of any other ani-
mal ; and more sparingly under sheds,
where horses, oxen, or sheep have been
kept. The dung of the two latter af-
fords it in greater perfection than that
of grass-fed horses. It has also been
found in pigeons' dung ; but the most
certain mode of obtaining it is to open
the ground about mushrooms growing
in pastures, though it is said not to be
so productive.

Time of Collecting. — It must be col-
lected in July, August, and September,
being reckoned in the greatest perfec-
tion in this last month. It may be
found, however, and should be collect-
ed, when it appears in the spring. It
generally occurs spread through the
texture of cakes, or lumps of dry rotted
dung. Put it in a heap under a dry
shed; and a current of air, passing
through the shed, is of great utility. If
kept dry, spawn may be preserved
three or four years: if damp, it will
either vegetate before being planted,
or putrefy.

Spawn must not be so far advanced
in vegetation as to appear in threads or
fibres; for, when in this state, it is no
longer applicable to a mushroom-bed ;
it may produce a mushroom if left to it-
self, but otherwise is useless. Spawn
proper for inserting in a bed should

being raised artificially. The following
is the manner: —

Two barrow-loads of cow-dung, not
grass- fed, one load of sheep's-dung, and
one of horses', well-dried and broken
so small as to pass through a coarse
sieve, are well mixed, and laid in a
conical heap during March, in a dry
shed, being well trod, as it is formed,
to check its heating excessively. This
heap is covered with hot dung, four
inches thick, or only with mats if the
shed is warm; for here, as in all the
stages of growth, the heat should only
range between 55^ and 60^. In about
a month the heap is examined ; and if
the spawn has not begun to run, which
is shown by indistinct white fibres per-
vading its texture, another covering of
equal thickness to the first is applied
over the old one ; in another month it
will indubitably make its appearance.
The time varies from three to ten weeks.

May be increased. — If a small quantity
of spawn only can be collected, it may
be increased by the following methods,
the first of which is chiefly recommend-
able on account of its simplicity and fa-
cility of adoption: —

Small pieces of the spawn may be
planted a foot asunder, just beneath the
surface of the mould of a cucumber-bed
constructed in the spring. In about
two months the surface of the spawn
will assume a mouldy appearance; it
may then be taken up, with the earth
adhering to it, and when dried stored
as before directed.

The second mode is variously prac-
tised. In the course of May a heap of
the droppings ofcow, sheep, and horses,
or any one or two of them, without the
admixture of any undecoraposed straw,
is to be collected, and one-fifth of road-
scrapings with one-twentieth of coal-
ashes added, the whole being mixed
together with as much of the drainings
from a dung-hill as will make it of
the consistency of mortar. Being well
incorporated, it is then to be spread in
a dry, sheltered, airy place, on a smooth
surface, and beat flat with a spade.
When become of the consistency of
clay, it is to be cut into slabs about
eight inches square, a hole punched
half through the middle of each, and
piled to dry, an opening being left be-

liave the appearance of indistinct white tween every two bricks. When per
mould. ] fectly dry, a fragment of the spawn is

May be raised. — Spawn is capable of; to be buried in the hole previously

M U S

389

MUS

made : it will shortly spread through together. The spawn to be inserted
the whole texture of the slabs, if kept when they are half dry.

in a warm dry place, when eacli may be
broken into four pieces, and when quite
dry laid on shelves — separate, and not
in heaps, otherwise a bed will be form-
ed for the spawn to run in. Mr. Wales

Quantity required. — One bushel of
spawn is required for a bed five feet by
ten; two bushels for one double that
length; and so on in proportion.

MUSK-FLOWER. Mimulus mos-

recommends the composition to consist chata.
of three parts horse-dung without lit- ' '»"''^'
ter, two of rotten tree-leaves, two of
cow-dung, one of rotten tanners' bark,
and one of sheep's dung, mixed to the
consistency of mortar, and moulded in
sinall frames like those used by brick-
makers, six inches long, four broad,
and three deep. Three holes to be
made half through the bricks, an inch
apart, with a blunt dibble, for the re-
ception of the spawn. They should be
put on board for the convenience of
moving abroad during fine days, as they
must be made perfectly dry, which they
often appear to be on the outside when
they are 'ar otherwise internally. Be-
fore they are perfectly dry they require
Treat care in handling and turning, from

MUSS.T.NDA. Eight species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

MUSTARD. Sinnpis alba.

Soil and Situation. — It succeeds best
in a fine rich mouldy loam, in which the
supply of moisture is regular ; it may
rather incline to lightness than tenacity.
If grown for salading it need not be
dug deep; but if for seed, to full the
depth of the blade of the spade.

In early spring, and late in autumn,
the situation should be sheltered ; and
during the height of summer, shaded
from the meridian sun.

Time and Mode of Sowing. — For sal-
ading, it may be sown throughout the
year. From the beginning of November

their aptitude to break; but in about i to the same period of March, in a gentle
three weeks, if dry weather, when per- hot-bed appropriated to the purpose,
fectly exsiccated, they become quite in one already employed for some other
firm. To pervade them with the spawn, plant, or in the corner of a stove. From
a layer of fresh horse-litter, which has the close of February to the close of
laid in a heap to sweeten as for a hot- April it may be sown in the open ground,
bed, must be formed, six inches thick, [on a warm sheltered border, and from
in a dry shed. On this a course of the thence to the middle of September in
bricks is to be laid, and their holes | a shady one. Both the white and black,
completely filled with spawn ; and, as ! for seed, may be sown at the close of
the bricks are laid in rows upon each i March, in an open compartment. For
other, the upper side of each is to be ' salading, it is sown in flat-bottomed
scattered over with some of the same, j drills, about half an inch deep and six
The bricks are not placed so as to touch, i inches apart. The seed cannot well
so that the heat and steam of the dung ! be sown too thick. The earth which

may circulate equally and freely. The
heap is to terminate with a single brick,
and when completed, covered with a
layer, six inches thick, of hot dung, to
be reinforced with an additional three
inches after a lapse of two weeks. The
spawn will generally have thoroughly
run through the bricks after another
fortnight. If, however, upon examina-
tion this is not found to be the case,
they must remain for ten days longer.
The bricks being allowed to dry for a
few days before they are stored, will
then keep for many years.

Mr. Oldaker recommends the bricks
to be tnade of fresh horse-droppings,
mixed with short litter, to which must

covers the drills should be entirely di-
vested of stones. Water must be given
occasionally in dry weather, as a due
supply of moisture is the chief induce-
ment to a quick vegetation. The sow-
ings are to be performed once or twice
in a fortnight, according to the demand.
Cress {lepidium .lativuin) is the almost
constant accompaniment of this salad-
herb; and as the mode of cultivation
for each is identical, it is only neces-
sary to remark that, as cress is rather
tardier in vegetating than mustard, it is
necessary, for the obtaining them both
in perfection at the same time, to sow
it five or six days earlier.

It must be cut for use whilst young,

be added one-third of cow-dung and a I and before the rough leaves appear,
small portion of earth, to cement them I otherwise the pungency of the flavour

MUT

390

M YR

is disagreeably increased. If the top
only is cut off, the plants will in ge-
neral shoot again, though this second
produce is always scanty, and not so
mild or tender.

To obtain Seed. — For the production
of seed sow thin. When the seedlings
have attained four leaves they should
be hoed, and again after the lapse of
a month, during dry weather, being set
eight or nine inches apart. Throughout
their growth they must be kept free from
weeds; and if dry weather occurs at the
time of flowering, water may be applied
■with great advantage to their roots.

The plants flower in June, and are
fit for cutting when their pods have be-
come devoid of verdure. They must
be thoroughly dried before threshing
and storing.

Forcing — For forcing, the .seed is
most conveniently sown in boxes or
pans, even if a hot-bed is appropriated
to the purpose. Pans of rotten tan are
to be preferred to pots or boxes of
mould ; but whichever is employed the
seed must be sown thick, and other
restrictions attended to, as for the open-
ground crops. The hot-bed need only
be moderate. Air may be admitted as
abundantly as circumstances will allow.

MUTISIA. Three species. Stove
or green-house evergreen climbers.
Cuttings. Peat and loam.

MYAGRUM perfoliatum. Hardy
annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

MYANTHUS. Fly-wort. Four spe-
cies. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood.

MYGINDA. Five species. Stove
evergreen shrubs, except M. myrti-
folia, which is hardy. Ripe cuttings.
Loam and peat.

MYLOCARYUM ligusirinvm.
Half-hardy evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

MYOPORUM. Twelve species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

MYOSOTIS. Eleven species. Har-
dy annuals and aquatic and herbaceous
perennials. M. intermedials a decidu-
ous trailer; M. palustris is the well-
known Forget-me-not. The perennials
require a moist soil, and may be in-
creased by division or seed; the an-
nuals by seed, in a dry sandy soil.

MYliCIA. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings.
Loam, peat, and sand.

MYRTADENUS tetraphyllus. Stove
biennial. Seeds. Common soil.

MYRICA. Eleven species. Green-
house evergreen and hardy deciduous
shrubs. The green-house kinds are
increased by cuttings; the hardy by
seeds or layers. Peaty soil.

MYRICARIA. Two species. Hardy
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Com-
mon soil.

MYRISTICA. Nutmeg. Three
species. Stove evergreen trees. Ripe
cuttings. Sandy loam.

MYROBALAN PLUM. Prunus do-
mestica myrobalana.

MYRSIPHYLLUM. Two species.
Green-house deciduous twiners. Di-
vision. Sandy loam and peat.

MYRTLE. Myrtus.

MYRTLE-BILBERRY. Vaccinium
myrtillus.

MYRTUS, The Myrtle. Eleven
species, and many varieties. Green-
house or stove evergreen shrubs. Half-
ripened cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.
Water freely whilst they are growing
in spring and summer. The common
myrtle is M. communis, of which there
are several varieties, chiefly character-
ized by the breadth and size of the
leaves or doubleness of the flowers.

Propagation. — By Slips and Cut-
tings.— The young shoots, either of
the same or former year's growth, of
from about two or three to five or six
inches long, either slipped or cut off,
are the proper parts for planting, and
may be struck either with or without
artificial heat. By either method June
or July is the best season, especially
when intended to use the shoots of the
year. The previous year's shoots will
also strike tolerably, especially if plant-
ed in spring, or, by aid of hot-beds, may
be made to strike root readily at
any time in the spring or summer.
By aid of a hot-bed both one and two
year shoots may be greatly facilitated
in rooting. A dung hot-bed, under
common frames and lights, will do,
though a bark hot-bed of a stove,
&c., is the most eligible and effectual.
Plants thus struck in spring, or early
in summer, from plants of the same
year, will be fit to pot off separately
early in autumn. Choose straight clean
shoots, and as robust as possible, which
divest of the lower leaves two-thirds of
their length; they are then ready for
planting. Fill the pots or pans with

N AI

391

N A R

light rich mould, in which plant the i walls, the mortar is not so much dis-
slips or cuttings — many in each pot or turbcd if the nails are driven in a little
pail if" required, putting them in within further before they are extracted. Old
' ' 11 „.jj|g ^,,Y ijg renovated by being heated

to redness, and then thrown into water:
this removes from them the mortar;
and then they may be again heated and
put into oil as before directed. The
cast iron nails used by gardeners are
known to the ironmonger as wall nails,
and are described as 2^, 3, 4, and 5 11>.
wall nails, accordingly as 1,000 of

an inch of their tops, and about an inch
or two asunder. Give directly some
water, to settle the earth closely about
each plant; then, either plunge the
pots, &c., in a shallow garden-frame,
and put on the glasses, or cover each
pot or pan close with a low hand-glass,
which is the most eligible for facilitating
tiieir rooting. In either method, how-

ever, observe to plunge the pots in the them are of those weights

earth or hot-bed.

Nails in most cases require to be

Afford them occasional shade from driven only a very little way into the
the mid-day sun, and give plenty of mortar, and walls then do not become
water three or four times a week at defaced by them for many years. In
least, or oftener in very hot weather ; all summer nailing of peach trees,
thus they will be rooted in a month or roses, &c., the point only requires to
six weeks. Let them remain in the be driven in, so that the nail may be
open air until October, then remove easily withdrawn by the fingers. If
them into the green-house for the these precautions are attended to, and
winter; and in spring the forwardest in the nails are not driven into the face of
growth may be potted olf separately in the bricks, but between the mortar
small pots ; but if rather small and joints, a good wall will last for half a
weak, or but indifferently rooted, let i century without requiring fresh pointing,
them have another summer's growth, and by nails the branches of a tree can
and pot them out separately in Sep- , always be better placed than by loops

or similar contrivance."
NANUIN.\ domestica.

teinber or spring following, managing

them as other green-house shrubs of

similar temperature, and shifting them evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings

into larger pots annually, or according and peat

as they shall require.

By Layers. — Such plants as are fur-
nished with young bottom branches or
shoots, situated low enough for laying,
may be layered in spring in the usual
way; every shoot will readily emit

roots, and be fit to transplant into all hardy bulbs, including the
separate pots in autumn. ' (N. Pseudo-Narcissus); Two-

Gard. Chron.

Green-house

Loaiu

NAPOLEON-S WEEPING
LOW. Salix Napoleana.

NARAVELIA zeylanica.
evergreen climber. Young
Sandy loam and peat.

NARCISSUS. Eighty-five

W^IL-

Stove
cuttings.

species ;
DafTodil
coloured

By Seed. — These may be sowed in (iV.6/co/or) ; White, or Poet's Narcissus
spring, in pots of light mould, and (iV. poeticus); Hoop-petticoat Narcis-
plungcd in a moderate hot-bed. The sus (N. bulbocodiwii); Small autumn
plants will soon come up, which, when i Narcissus (N. .terotiims) ; Polyanthus

■" ^iucissus {N. tazelta); Jonqm] (N.jon-

quilla) ; and Paper Narcissus (lY. papy-
raceus); with varieties of each.

Characteristics of Excellence. — Mr.
Glenny says — '■ that in the Narcissi the
flowers should be circular and large,

two or three inches high, pot off sepa-
rately in small pots: manage them as
the others. — Abercrombie.

With respect to the general culture,
see Green-house Plants.

NAILS for training wall trees are

best made of cast iron, being the they should expand flat, and the cup
cheapest, stoutest, and most enduring, which is in the centre should stand out
Before using they should be heated well. The petals should be thick,
almost to redness, and then be thrown smooth, firm, free from notch or rough-
into cold linseed oil. When dry, they ness on the edges, and have no points,
have a varnish upon them which pre- The bunch of flowers should not con-
serves them from rusting, and prevents sist of less than seven; the footstalks
the mortar of the wall sticking to them should be of such length as to allow
BO corrosively as it does if they are the flowers to touch each other at the
unoiled. lu drawing old uails' from i edge, and present an even, though

N AR

392

N AR

^

roundiiiff or dome-like surface, with I remain till they show flowers, and after

.. ° . . .,,, . ., ■ .K_ J ,_ 1.1 .._ ;ii u«

one bloom in the middle, the other six
forming a circle round it. The stem
should be strong, firm, elastic, and not
more than ten inches in length. The
leaves should be short, broad, and
bright, and there must not be more
than one flower stem to a show flower.
If the variety be white, it should be
pure ; and the yellow cup should be
bright. If the variety be yellow, it
cannot be too bright. Double flowers,
and Narcissi of numerous kinds, with
only one or two flowers in a sheath,
will not be considered subjects of ex-
hibition, except in collections of forced
flowers." — Gard. and Prac. Flor.

Propagation. — The propagation of
all the Narcissi is effected principally
by off'sets ; also by seed, to obtain new
varieties.

By Offsets. — All the sorts increase
plentifully by offset bulbs from the main
roots annually ; and the proper time for
separating them is in summer, when
they have done flowering, and the
leaves and stalks begin to decay.

By Seed. — It will be often six or
seven years before the seedlings will
flower in perfection. The seed ripens
in June or July, which sow soon after
in pots or boxes of light rich earth, half
an inch deep, then place them in a full
sunny situation for the winter, allowing
them shelter in severe frosts. In March
or April they will come up. Give fre-
quently sprinklings of water, and, occa-
sional shade from the midday sun at
their first appearance ; and as the

the second year's bloom you will be
able to judge of their properties, when
mark the good sorts, and manage them
as directed for the blowing roots.

Soil and Culture. — They succeed
very well in any good, light, rich earth,
in a sheltered situation and eastern
aspect, with the beds a little elevated
above the common level ; and in win-
ter and early in spring give occasional
shelter of mats from frosts and incle-
ment weather, especially afler the
flower buds appear above ground. All
the sorts of these bulbs, planted in
either of the above methods, may be
suffered to remain in the ground two
or three years, or more, unremoved;
however, it is proper to take up the
bulbs in general every third or fourth
year, in order to separate the off'sets,
which in that time will be increased so
greatly in number, that the tubes press-
ing close against one another, the inner
ones will be so much compressed and
weakened, as greatly to impede their
flowering. But where these bulbs are
intended for sale, they should generally
be lifted once a year, or once every
two years, otherwise, by their growing
close in clusters, pressing against one
another, they will be flattened thereby,
and rendered unsightly, and less sale-
able. The proper time of year for
taking up all the sorts is soon after
they have done flowering, and their
leaves and flower stalks attained a
state of decay; at which time of lifting
the bulbs, separate them all singly, and

warm season advances, move the pots ] the smaller offsets from the larger, re-
to an eastern aspect, to have only the | serving the large roots for planting
morning sun till ten or eleven o'clock, i again in the principal compartments;
In June or July the leaves will decay, I and the smaller may be deposited in
when stir the surface lightly, and clear' nursery beds for a year or two, to gain
ofli" the decayed leaves, all weeds, and | strength, when they will become good
mossiness; then sift a little fine mould j flowering roots, and may then be taken
over the surface, half an inch thick, up at the proper season, in order tor
repeating it in October. Let them re- \ planting where wanted. When the
main tilf the third year, treating simi- roots are lifted at the above season,
larly ; and in the third summer, at the ! they may either be planted again di-
decay of the leaves, take up the bulbs, I rectly, or in a month or six weeks

and separate the largest, which plant
in beds, in rows, five or six inches
asunder and three deep ; and the small
bulbs you may scatter, mould and all,
on the surface of another bed, and
cover them two or three inches deep
with fine earth, which after a year's

after; or may be cleaned and dried;
and retained out of the ground in a dry
room, two or three months, or longer,
if occasion shall require.

Method of Planting. — The best gene-
ral season tor planting all these bulbs
is in autumn, from about the beffin-

growth may be transplanted in rows as i ning or middle of September until No-
above. In these beds let the seedlings , vember: they will flower considerably

N AR

393

NE A

stronger, as well as furnish a greater is usually cultivated in the kitchen gar-
increase of offsets than those planted den ; the first two being employed in
later, or not till spring; if, however, salads and for garnishing, and the last
some roots are retained out of ground in pickling.

until February, they will succeed those Soil and Situation. — They flourish in
of the autumnal planting in flowering, almost any soil, but are most productive
Those in the open borders should be in a light fresh loam. In a strong rich
deposited in little patches of about soil, the plants are luxuriant, but afford
three or four roots in each, planting fewer berries, and those of inferior fla-
them either with a blunt dibble, or with vour. They like an open situation,
a garden trowel, four inches deep.] Time and Mode of Sowing. — They
When planted in beds by themselves, niay be sown from the beginning of
have the beds four feet wide, with al- March to the middle of May; the ear-
leys, a foot and a half or two feet wide, lier, however, the better: one sowing
between, plant the roots in rows length- jn the kitchen garden, and that a small
wise, nine inches asunder, about four one, is quite suflicient for a moderate
inches deep, and six distant in each sized family. The seed may be inserted
row, covering them regularly with the j,, a drill, two inches deep along its bot-
earth, and rake the surface smoothly, torn, in a single row, with a space of
Having planted the roots in either of . two or three inches between every two,
these methods, all the culture they re- or they may be dibbled in at a similar
(juire is to be kept clean from weeds ; j distance and depth. The minor is like-
and they will all flower in the following I wise often sown in patches. The ma-
spring ai.d summer. I jor should be inserted beneath a vacant
Water Culture. — The Polyanthus, , paling, wall, or hedge, to which its
Narcissus, and the large Jonquils, are stems may be trained, or in an open
bloomed in glasses of water in rooms, compartment, with sticks inserted on
in winter and early in spring; any of each side. The runners at first require
the other species may also be flowered | a little attention to enable them to
in the same manner; observing to pro- din^j,^ but they soon are capable of
cure such roots as were lifted at the doing so unassisted. The minor may
season above mentioned. The season either trail along the ground, or be sup-
for placing in water is any time in win- | ported with short sticks. If water is
ter or early spring, from October till i not afforded during dry weather, they
March, observing to fill the glasses „i|i pot shoot so vigorously, or be so
with fresh soft water, so full that the productive. They flower from June
bottom of the bulb may just touch it. j umil the close of October. The berries
See Hyacinth. for pickling must be gathered when of
Pot Vulture. — The same plants may I f„i| gi^g^ and whilst green and fleshy,
be brought to early bloom in pots ; during August.

plant the bulbs in pots of light rich fg obtain Seed. — For the production
earth during August, and place in a of seed, some plants should be left
warm room; they will bloom about unn-athered from, as the first produced
November. — Abercrombie. I are not only the finest in general, but

N.\RCISSl)S-FLY. See Mi?«rodo/i. are often the only ones that ripen.
NASTURTIUM. By this name are They should be gathered as they ripen,
commonly known two species of Tro- which they do from the close of Au-
pcEolum. T. mnjus is a hardy annual g|,st even to the beginning of October,
twiner, and there are several varieties, xhey must on no account be stored
distinguished by their double or crim- I „ntil perfectly dry and hard. The finest
son flowers, t. minus is a hardy an- and soundest seed of the previous year's
nual trailer, and a variety with double production should alone be sown ; if it
flowers, is a green-house evergreen. jg older the plants are seldom vigorous.
Although strictly annual when grown] NAUtLEA. Five species. Stove
in the open ground in this country, yet ^.^ ^pg„ ^,3^8. Layers and cuttings,
they are naturallv perennial, as may be „. ,*', ■'

•^ , . ,. . 1 ' ivicn loam.

Droved it thev are grown in a green- _ „ . , ,

house. The Major Nasturtium being ' NAVELWORT. Cotyledon.
the most productive, as well of flowers j NEAPOLITAN VIOLET. Viola ado-
and leaves as of berries, is the one that | rata pallida plena. See Violet.

NEC

394

NET

— • - ^

NECTARINE. Persica lavis. j vated in the Philadelphia Nurseries,

Varieties. — The following are culti-i and are among the better kinds :

Explanation of Abbreviations.— Co/or — y yellow; r red ; o orange; g
green; w white. Size — l large ; m medium.

Those marked * are clingstones.

Downton .....
EIruge ......

*Golden

Peterborough .....
*Red Roman . . '. .

*White Roman

"White Early ....

For Culture, see. Peacft, which applies.

NECTAROSOCORDUM siru-
lum. Honey Garlic. Hardy bulb. Oil-
sets. Common soil.

NEGRO-FLY. See Athalia.

NEGUNDO fraxinifoUum. Two va-
rieties. Hardy deciduous trees. Seed
and layers. Light loam.

NELITRIS jambosella. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings and layers. Loam
and peat.

NELUMBIUM. Five species. Stove
aquatics. Seed and division. Rich loam
in water. Mr. A. Scolt, gardener to
Sir G. Staunton, Bart., gives the follow-
ing directions for cultivating iV. specto-
sum : —

" Let it be kept dry during the win-
ter, in a cool part of the plant stove,
at about 50° Fahrenheit. In February,
the roots to be divided and potted sepa-
rately in turfy loam; the pots set in
pans of water; the temperature of air
from 65° to 90=; temperature of the
water in the cisterns being about 753.
In May plant out in a water-tight box,
three and a half feet long, one and a
half foot wide, and sixteen inches deep,
filled with loamy soil, having a little
gravel on the top to give it solidity, and
allowing room for about two inches
of water over the surface of the soil.
Plunge the box into the bark bed ; the
temperature of the soil and water in
the box 80*^. This bottom heat main-
tain during the summer, the tempera-
ture of the house varying from 65'^ to
90<^." — Hort.Soc. Trans. N. luteum is
indigenous to the United States, though
only found growing spontaneously in
certain quarters. It has been intro-
duced into the meadow ditches below

coi'a

SIZE

i-l

SEASON.

L

1

September

L

1

August

M

2

September

M

2

September

L

1

September

L

1

August

L

1

August

Philadelphia, where it thrives luxu-
riantly. We have seen it finely de-
veloped in artificial ponds, evincing
that it is of ensy culture.

NEMATANTHUS chloronemn. Stove
shrub. Cuttings. Light rich soil.

NEMESIA. Four species. Two
hardy annuals, and the other green-house
herbaceous perennials. The first in-
crease by seed, the second by cuttings.
Rich light loam.

NEMOPANTHES canadensis. Hardy
deciduous shrub. Seed and layers. Peat.

NKMOPHILA. Six species. Hardy
annuals and perennials. Seed. Peat
and light soil.

NEOTTIA. Nineteen species. Hardy,
green-house, and stove orchids. Divi-
sion. Loam, peat, and chalk.

NEPENTHES. Two species. " Stove
evergreen climbers. N. distillatoria is
the Pitcher Plant. Offsets. Coarse peat
and moss. Pots plunged in moss, kept
moist and at SOo ; air 70^." — Paxton^s
Bot. Diet.

NEPETA. Thirty-five species. Hardy
herbaceous, except N. angustifolia,
which is annual. Seed and division.
Light loam.

NERINE. Twelve species. Green-
house bulbs. Seed and offsets. Rich
light loam.

NERIUM. Oleander. Four species
and more varieties. Green-house and
stove evergreens. Cuttings. Rich light
loam.

NESyEA trijlora. Stove herbaceous.
Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

NETTING is employed to prevent
the radiation of heat from walls, and
the rude access of wind to trees grown
I upon them, as well as to prevent the

NET

395

NIC

ravagos of birds upon currants, cher-
ries, &c.

Netting is a very effectual preventive

others of hemp : the last does not shrink
after being wetted like the woollen. I
prefer that with about twenty-live meshes

INeiting is a very eiieuiuiii picvciiii>c |,icn,i n. 1.1. .. .v.. ..""". v » — j .. . v, .... w..v.„
of coolin", for reasons which will be ] in a square inch, at 5(/. per scjuure yard.

stated when considering Shelters gene
rally; and in connection with that, it may
be observed that it is not altogether im-
material of what substance netting is
formed. Worsted is to be preferred
not only because it is the most durable.

NETTLE TREE. Celt is'.

NEUROLOMA arabidijlorum. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Common soil.

NEW JERSEY TEA. Ceanothus
Americanus.

NEW ZEALAND SPINACH, Tetra-

noi only uecause 11 is iiic luuot uuiui^iv-, 1 i^i^.. «>.«»»»-.-•». ^ ■ . -• --,

but because it is the best preventive of \ gonia expansa,*\s much admired as a_
a wall-s cooling. I have found the tlier- substitute for summer spinach, being of
mometer under a hemp net sink during more delicate flavor, and not so liable
the night, from two to four degrees to run to seed. Mr. J. Anderson, gar-
lower Than that under a net of worsted, j dener to the Earl of Essex, at Cassio-
the meshes being small and of equal bury, Herts, gives the following direc-
size in both nets. This can only be , tions for its cultivation : —
because worsted is known to be a worse I " Sow in the seed-vessel as gathered
conductor of heat than hemp; and, not' the preceding autumn, at the latter end
absorbing moisture so easily, is not so ! of March in a pot, and placed in a me-
liable to^the cold always produced by ; Ion frame. The seedlings to be pricked
its drv'ing.— Principles of Gardening. ! while small singly into pots, to be kept
Netting will also exclude flies and j under a frame without bottom heat, until
other wmged insects from the fruit , the third week in May, or until the dan-
against walls, although the meshes arc | ger of frost is past. The bed for their
nu)re than large enough to permit 1 reception is formed by digging a trench
their passage. Why this is the case is j two feet wide and one deep, this being
not very apparent, "but the netting is j filled with thoroughly decayed dung,

11.. _xE_:-_. :.. 1 ;.,„„:.„;!-,- :-- i and Covered six inches deep with mould.

A space of at least three feet must be
left vacant for the extension of the
branches. Twenty plants will afford an
abundant supply daily for a large fa-
mily ; they must be planted three feet
apart.

" In dry seasons they probably require

equally efficient in keeping similar in
sects from intruding into rooms if there
are no cross lights. If there are win-
dows on different sides of the room, and
it is to be presumed, therefore, also in a
green or hot-house, nets would not be so
efficient.

It is not a useless scrap of knowledge . inu. j oi.»o^..o ^..^j ,- -j .-.,..-

to the gardener, that one hundred square ! a large supply of water. In five or six
yardsof netting, according to some mcr-1 weeks after planting, the young leaves
chants" mode ofmeasuring, will notcover may be gathered from them, these be-
more than fifty square yards of wall, for |ing pinched off. The leading shoot
they stretch the net first longitudinally must be carefully preserved, for the
and then laterally, when making Iheir branches are productive until a late pe-
mcasurement, and not in both directions riod of the year, as they survive the
at once, as the gardener must when CO- frosts that kill nasturtiums and pota-
vering his trees. Disappointment, there- , toes."

fore, should be avoided, when ordering | To obtain Seed. — For the production
new nets, by stating the size of the sur- ^ of seed, a plantation must be made on
face which has to be covered. This a poorer soil, or kept stunted and dry in
may be done without any fear of impo- pots, as ice plants are when seed is re-
sition. I quired of them. On the rich compost

Mr. Richardson, net maker. New ! of the bed, the plants become so suc-
Road, London, informs me, that one j culent as to prevent the production of
cwt. of oW mackerel net, weighed when , seed. This vegetable has not proved,
quite dry, will cover eight hundred , in the United States, worthy of its Eu-
square yards ; and one cwt. of old her- ropean reputation — probably owing to
ring net (smaller meshes) will cover six 1 the intense heat of our summers

hundred square yards. Mr. Hulme, of
Knutsford, has sent me various speci-
mens of his nets and open canvass for
inspection — some made of woollen and

NEW ZEALAND TEA. Leptosper-
murn scoparia.

NICKER TREE. Guilandina.
NICOTIANA. Thirty-one species, in-

NI E

396

NO N

eluding N. tdbacum, the well-known To-
bacco. This and nearly all the others
are hardy annuals. Seed. Rich light
loam.

NIEREMBERGIA. Four species.
Green-house herbaceous, except the
hardy annual N. aristata. Seed or cut-
tings. Light loam.

NIGELLA. Fennel flower. Eleven
species. Hardy annuals and biennials,
except the herbaceous N. coarctata.
Seed. Common soil.

NIGHTSHADE. Solanum.

NIGHT-SOIL. See Dung.

NIGHT TEMPERATURE in hot-
houses and frames should always ave-
rage from 10 to 20 degrees lower than
the temperature in which the plants are
grown during the day. It is in the night
that the individual functions are reno-
vated by a temporary repose, and if
left to the dictates of healthy nature

tionably increased by the higher tem-
perature.— Principles of Gardening.

NIPHOBOLUS. Eight species.
Stove ferns. Seed and division, Sandy
loam and peat.

NISSOLIA. Seven species. Stove
evergreen climbers and shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

NITRATES. See Saline Manures.

NITTA TREE. Parkin.

N I V E A . Seven species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Sandy peat and loam.

NOCCA. Four species. Stove ever-
green shrubs. N. latifoUa is half-hardy.
Cuttings. Common soil.

NOCTUA, a genus of moths. The
following are injurious to our gar-
dens : —

N. gamma. The Y, or Gamma Moth.
The caterpillars of this are very de-
structive to pens and other kitchen ve-
getables during the summer. Mr. Cur-

the sap, like the blood, flows at night, tis describes it as "being beset with

with a much diminished velocity

That plants do become exhausted by
too unremitting excitement, is proved
to every gardener who has peach-
houses under his rule ; for if the great-
est care be not taken to ripen the wood
by exposure to the air and light during
the summer, no peach tree will be fruit-
ful if forced during a second successive
winter, but will require a much more
increased temperature than at first to
excite it even to any advance in vegeta-
tion.

The experiments of Harting and
Munter upon vines growing in the open
air, and those of Dr. Lindley upon vines
in a hot-house, coincide in testifying
that this tree grows most during the less
light and cooler hours of the twenty-
four. But the hours of total darkness
were the period when the vine grew
slowest. This, observes Dr. Lindley,
seems to show the danger of employing
a high night temperature, which forces
such plants into growing fast at a time
when nature bids them repose.

That the elevation of temperature at
night does hurtfully excite plants is
proved by the fact, that the branch of a
vine kept at that period of the day in
temperature not higher than 50°, in-
hales from one-sixteenth to one-tenth
less oxygen than a similar branch of the
same vine during the same night in a
temperature of 75'. The exhalation of
moisture and carbonic acid is propor-

greenish hairs, and on the back with
yellow or white ones. It has a brown
head. When fully grown, which takes
place in the course of a few weeks, it
forms a while cocoon, and changes into
a blackish brown pupa.

" There are three or four generations
of moths during the summer, which ap-
pear at intervals between April and
October. In the latter month, we have
seen them fluttering round flowers at
dusk literally by thousands : this remark
applies more particularly to the southern
counties of England. The wings are
about an inch across, the upper ones
are varied with grey and brown, having
quite a silvery hue, and towards the
centre there is a perfect silvery Greek
gamma, y, with a rusty spot close be-
fore it, the lower wings are pale ashy
brown, with the nerves and hinder mar-
gin deep brown. There are few reme-
dies that can be applied to this pest;
perhaps the best of all is hand-picking
the caterpillars. — Gard. Chron.

N. exclamationis. The caterpillar
of this moth feeds on the stalks of the
potato.

NOISETTIA /o«g-//"o//a. Stove ever-
green shrub. Young cuttings. Light
rich soil.

N O L A N A. Five species. Hardy
annual trailers. Seed. Common soil.

NOLINA georgiana. Hardy herba-
ceous. Offsets. Sandy peat.

NONATELIA. Four species. Stove

NOR

397

NOV

evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

NORANTEA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

NORMANDY CRESS. See Ameri-
can Cress.

NORWAY SPRUCE. Pinus cana-
densis.

NOTEL.T^A. Five species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings.
Peat and loam.

NOTHOCHL.IINA. Nine species.
Green-house and stove ferns. Seed and
division. Sandy peat.

NOTYLIA. Five species. Stove
epiphytes. Offsets. Wood and moss

prune; plant; cuttings plant. — Figs,
rub off green fruit; train, but do not
prune. — Fork over ground about fruit
trees. — Gooseberries, plant; prune;
cuttings .plant. — Medlars, plant. —
Mulberries, plant. — Mulch round
trees newly planted. — Nectarines,
prune; plant. — Nuts (Filberts), &c.,
p]sinl.— Peaches, prune; plant. — Pears,
prune; plant. — Plums, prune; plant. —
Pruning and planting generally should
be done; it is the best season. — Quinces,
plant. — Raspberries, prune; plant. —
Services, plant. — Stake trees newly
planted. — Standards, plant ; prune. —
Stones of fruit sow. — Strawberries,
dress, if not done last month. — Suckers,

NOVEMBER is a month chiefly of , remove. — Trees Cor forcing, remove. —

routine neatness and preparation for
winter.

Trench and manure ground to be plant-
ed, if not done months ago. — ^''ines,
prune ; plant. — IVall Trees and Espa-
liers generally, prune and plant; it is
the best for their winter regulation. —
Walnuts, \^\d.nt. — Water all newlv

FLOWER GARDEN.

Anemones, plant, if not done in Oc-

KITCHF.N GARDEN.

Artichokes, winter, dress. — Aspara-
gus-beds, dress ; plant ; to force ; attend ^ ^

to that in forcing. — Beet, dig up for planted trees. — JVeeds, destroy
storing. — Cabbages, remove to winter nerally, and clean up.
quarters. — Cardoons, earth up, b. — Car-
rots, dig up and store, b. — Cauliflowers,

attend to, under glasses, &c. — Celery, ,,,., .„, j ,

earth up. — Coleworts, plant. — Com- tober. — Auriculas, shelter. — Bulbous
posts, prepare. — Cucumbers, attend to, roots, finish planting in dry weather, b.f
in forcing. — Drain vacant ground. — cover beds with mats, &c., in bad wea-
Dung, prepare for hot-beds. — Earth- ther ; pot for forcing. — Carnation lay-
ing--up, attend to. — JSnd/r*, blanch, &c. ers, potted, shelter; finish planting. —
— Garlic, plant, b. — Herbary, clean, Climbers, as Ivy, Clematis, &c., plant
&c. — Horse-radish, dig up and store. — and train against walls. — Composts,
Hof-fceds, make for salading, &c.—/er!<- prepare. — Dahlias, take up after the
salem Artichokes, dig up and store. — first frost; dry and store under sand,
Leaves, 4-c., continually clear away. — where the temperature keeps about
Lettuces, plant in frames; attend to 40=. — Dressing the borders is now the
those advancing. — 3/in<, plant; force in chief occupation. — Edgings, plant. —
hot-bed. — Mushroom Beds, make; at- Evergreens, finish planting, b. ; finish
tend to those in production. — Onions, i layering. — Fibrous-rooted plants, finish
in store, look over ; plant for seed, b.; ' dividing and planting, b. — Fork over
— Parsley, cut down, b. — Parsnips, dig ' borders, shrubberies, &c. — Grass, roll ;
up and store, b. ; leave or plant out l keep free from leaves. — Gravel, weed,

..' 1 V...'.- - 1- ' u I -_ 1 __11 Lf.J „ „!„.,. „i;,>

for Bced. — Potatoes, dig up, b
Radishes, sow, in hot-bed. — Scilsafy,
dig up and store. — Savoys, plant for
seed, b. — Scoj-zonera, dig up and store.
— Seeds, dress and store. — Shallots,
plant, b. ; sow in hot-bed. — Spinach,
thin, &c. — Thinning, attend to. —
Trench, ridge, &c., vacant ground. —
Weeds, destroy continually.^

ORCHARD.

Apples, prune; plant. — Apricots,
prune; plant. — Berberries, plant. —
Cherries, prune ; plant. — Currants,

sweep, and roll. — Hedges, plant, clip,^
plash. — Hoeing and raking are the chief
operations. — Hyacinths, &c., place in
water glasses ; pot for forcing. — Marvel
ofPeru,t;ike up and store. (See Dahlia.)
— Mulch round shrubs lately planted. —
Leaves, collect for composts. — Plant
Perennials and Biennials. — Planting
perform generally. — Potted Shrubs,
plunge in the earth of a well sheltered
border. — Pot Plants for forcing, as
Roses, Carnations, 8ic.— Prune Shrubs
generally. — Ranunculuses, plant, if not
done in October. — Seedlings, in boxes.

NUP

398

NUR

remove to a warm situation. — Shrubs of
all kinds, plant; stake them as a sup-
port against boisterous winds. — Suckers
from Roses and other shrubs, separate
and plant. — Tulips, finish main plant-
ing, b. — Turf may be laid.

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit as freely as the season al-
lows.— Bark Beds, renew, if not done
last month. — Dress the borders, by fork-
ing, &c. — Fire Heat, by whatever means
it may be distributed, must now be dai-
ly employed. — Manure borders, &c.,
in which forcing trees are planted. —
Leaves, clean with sponge, &c.; remove
those decayed. — Pines will require the
day temperature to be kept between
60^ and 65°. — Peaches, prune ; wash
with diluted ammonia water from the
gas works, before training; day tempe-
rature .50.° — Potted flowering plants,
introduce. — S^ea7n, admit into the house,
where that mode of heating is used. —
Strawberries, begin to force. — Tobacco
fumigations employ to destroy insects.
— Trees, in forcing, treat like the Peach.
— Water (tepid), apply with the syringe
to the leaves; give to their roots, occa-
sionally; keep in pans about the house.

GREEN-HOUSE.

Air, admit freely, when mild. — Chry-
santhemums require abundant watering.
— Damp stagnant air is more to be dread-
ed than cold. — Decayed parts, remove,
as they appear. — Earth, in pots stir fre-
quently.— Fires must be lighted, if frost
severe, or heavy cold fogs occur. —
Leaves, clean with sponge, &c. — Tem-
perature, keep at about 4.5°, but not
higher. — Water moderately.

JSUPHAR. Five species. Hardy
aquatics. Division and seed ; ponds,
cisterns, &c.

NURSERY is a garden or portion of
a garden devoted to the rearing of trees
and shrubs during their early stages of
growth, before they are of a size desired
for the fruit or pleasure grounds. As
every tenant of the nursery is separate-
ly discussed in these pages', no more is
required here than to make a few ge-
neral observations.

Extent, Soil, Situation, Src. — With
respect to the proper e.xtent of a nurse-
ry, whether for private use, or for pub-
lic supply, it must be according to the
quantity of plants re(iuired, or the de-
mand for sale ; if for private use, from

a quarter or half an acre to five or six
acres may be proper, which must be
regulated according to the extent of
garden ground and plantations it is re-
quired to supply with the various sorts
of plants, and if for a public nursery,
not less than three or four acres of land
will be worth occupying as such, and
from that to fifteen or twenty acres, or
more, may be requisite according to
the demand, though some occupy forty
or fifty acres in nursery ground. A
nursery may be of any moderately light
land, that is fifteen or eighteen inches
depth of good working staple; but if
two or three spades deep, it will be
the greater advantage. A good fresh
fat soil, such as any good pasture, which
having the sward trenched to the bot-
tom is excellent for the growth of trees,
a rich soil fit for corn is also extremely
proper, or any other good soil of the
nature of common garden earth is also
very well adapted for a nursery. As to
situation ; if this is rather low it will be
better, because it is naturally warmer,
and more out of the power of cutting
and boisterous winds than a higher
situation, though if it happens where
some parts of the ground are high and
some low, it is an advantage, the bet-
ter suiting the nature of the different
plants. It is also of advantage to have
a nursery ground fully exposed to the
sun and air, and where there is the
convenience of having water, for the
occasional watering.

Mode of Arranging the Plants. — In
the distribution of the various sorts of
plants in the nursery, let each sort be
separate, in lines or nursery rows, to
stand till arrived at a proper growth for
drawing off for the garden and planta-
tions, placing the fruit trees, stocks,
&c., for graftmg and budding upon, in
rows two feet asunder, and half that
distance in the rows, varying the dis-
tance both ways, according to the
time they are to stand ; the shrub kind
should likewise be arranged in rows
about two feet asunder, and fifteen or
eighteen inches distant in each line;
and as to herbaceous plants, they should
generally be disposed in four feet wide
beds, in rows from six to twelve or
eighteen inches asunder, according to
their nature of growth, and time they
are to stand.

General Culture. — Those designed as
stocks for fruit-trees should have their

NUR

399

OCT

stems generally cleared from lateral require shelter only from frost whilst
shoots, hut never to shorten the lead- young, and by degrees become hardy
ing shoot unless it is decayed or bo- enough to live in the open air. Such of
comes very crooked, in which case it tlintn as are seedlings, in the open
may lie proper to cut it down low in grounds, should be arched over with
spring, and it will shoot out again — hoops or rods at the approach of winter,
training the main shoot for a stem, with in order to be sheltered with mats in
its top entire, for the present, till graft- i severe weather; and those which are in
ed or budded. I pots, either seedlings or transplanted

Forest trees should also be encou- plants, should be removed in October,
raged to form straight clean stems by in their pots, to a warm sunny place,
occasional trimming of the largest late- sometimes sheltered with hedges, &c.,
ral branches, which will also promote placing some close under the fences,
the leading top shoot in aspiring farther ficing the sun, where they may have
in height, always suffering that part of occasional covering, either of glass
each tree to shoot at full length, unless lights or mats, &c., from frost, observing
where the stem divides into forks — in , of all those sorts here alluded to that
which case trim otT the weakest, and i they are gradually to be hardened to the
leave the straightest and strongest shoot open ground, and need only be covered

or branch to shoot out at its proper
length, to form the top.

The different sorts of shrubs may
either be suffered to branch out in their
own natural way, except just regulating
very irregular growths, or some may

in frosty weather. At all other times
let tliem remain fully exposed, and by
degrees, as they acquire age and
strength, inure them to bear the open
air fully, so that, when they arrive at
from two or three to four or five years

be trained with single clean stems, from ' old, they may be turned out in the open
about a foot to two or three feet high, ground. — Ahcrcroinhie.

Every winter or spring the ground
between the rows of all transplanted
plants, in the open nursery-quarters,
must be dug : this is particularly neces-
sary to all the tree and shrub kind that
stand wide enough in rows to admit the
spade between; which work is, by the
nurserymen, called turning-in, the most
general season for which work is any
time from October until March. But
the sooner it is done the more advan-
tageous it will prove to the plants.

The ground is to be dug but half spade
deep, proceeding row by row, turning
the top of each spit clean to the bot-
tom, that all weeds on the surface may
be buried a proper depth to rot.

In summer be remarkably attentive to
keep all clean from weeds. The seed-
lings growing close in the seminary-heds
must be hand-weeded ; but to all plants
that grow in rows introduce the hoe.
As any quarter or compartment of the
nursery-ground is cleared from plants,
others must be substituted in their room
from the seminary; but the ground
should previously be trenched and lie
some time fallow, giving it also the ad-
dition of manure if it shall seem proper.

It will be of advantage to plant the

NUTMEG. Myristira.

NUTTALIA. Five species. Hardy
herbaceous. Seed and division. Sandy
peat.

NUT-TREE. Corylus. See Filbert.

NYCTANTHES arhortristis. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

NYMPHyEA. Water-lily. Eighteen
species. Hardy and stove aquatics.
Seed or division. Rich loam in water.

NYSSA. Four species. Hardy de-
ciduous trees. Seed and layers. Com-
mon soil in a moist situation.

OAK. Qiterrus.

OBESIA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Sandy loam.

O C H N A . Seven species. Stove
evergreen shrubs, except the green-
house 0.flYro;jurpurea. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

OCHROSIA horhonica. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Rich light
loam.

OCHRUS pallida. Hardy annual
climber. Seed. Common soil.

OCTOBER is one of the gardener's
harvest months in tlie southern section

ground with plants of a different kind of the Union ; in the middle and northern
from those which occupied it before, i states, his out-door labours are drawing
The tender or exotic plants of all kinds to a close.

OCT

400

OCT

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Angelica, sow. — Asparagus - beds,
dress, e.; for forcing, plant. — Balm,
plant. — Beet take up for storing, e. ;
Borecole, plant, b. ; earth up, &c. — Bur-
net, plant. — Cabbages, prick out, &c. ;
plant for seed. — Cardoons, earth up. —
Carrots, take up to store. — Cauliflowers,
prick out in frames. — Celery, earth up.
— Chives, plant. — Coleworts, plant. —
Cress (Water), plant. — Cucumbers, plant
to force. — Dill, sow. — Dung, prepare
for hot-beds. — Earthing-up. attend to.
— Endive, attend to; blanch, &c. — Fen-
nel, plant. — Garlic, plant, e. — Herbary,
dress. — Horse-Radish, plant. — Hyssop,
plant. — Jerusalem Artichokes, stir, e. —
Leaves, fallen, remove continually. —
Leeks, plant, b.; hoe, &c., advancing
crops. — Lettuces, prick out, e. — Mint,
plant. — Mushroom-beds, make ; attend
to those in production. — Nasturtium
Berries, gather as they ripen. — Onions,
attend to those in store, plant for seed.
— Parsley, cut down, b.; (Hamburgh),
is fit for use. — Parsnips, take up for
storing, e. ; leave or plant out for seed.
— Pennyroyal, plant. — Potatoes, dig up,
e. — Rhubarb, sow. — Rosemary, plant. —
Rue, plant. — Sage, plant. — Salsafy is in
perfection; take up for storing. — Savory,
plant. — Savoys, plant for seed. — Scor-
zonera is in perfection ; take up for
storing. — Seeds, gather as they ripen. —
Shallots, plant, e. — Small Salading,
sow. — S/)mac/i,thin, &c. — Stir between
rows of plants. — Tansy, plant. — Tar-
ragon, plant. — Thinning, attend to. —
Thyme, plant. — Turnips, plant for seed ;
hoe young crops. — Vacant ground,
trench, drain, &c.

ORCH.\RD.

Berberries, gather.— Chestnuts, gather.
— Currants and Gooseberries, plant ;
prune ; cuttings plant. — Fig Trees, pro-
tect when leaves are olf. — Fruit Trees,
for forcing, plant in pots or in hot-house.
— Gathering apples and pears, finish.
— Grapes, ripe, gather and hang up, e. ;
bag on the vines. — Layers of figs, fil-
berts, mulberries, vines, &c., make ;
those of last year take up and plant. —
Medlars, gather, e. — Planting may be-
gin generally, e. — Pruning, commence,
6. — Quinces, gather, e. — Raspberries,
prune and plant, if leaves have fallen.
— Ridge up ground after pruning is
finished. — Services, gather, e. — Stones
of cherries and plums, sow. — Strawber-

ries, dress ; plant. — Trench and prepare
ground for planting. — Wall-fruit and
espaliers generally, begin to prune,
e. — Walnuts, gather. — Water, give
abundantly at the time of planting.

FLOWER GARDEN.

Anemones, plant. — Annuals, done
flowering, pull up ; sow hardy, b. —
Auriculas, move to sunny shelter ; pro-
tect from rain and snow; remove dead
leaves; slip. — Bulbous roots, plant;
those in flower protect; place in water
glasses. — Carnation layers, plant in
pots, e. — Chrysanthemum cuttings, finish
planting. — Climbers, plant. — Compost,
prepare. — Cuttings, plant. — Dahlias,
protect in flower ; begin to take up roots
to dry and store as the leaves decay, e.
— Edgings, trim. — Evergreens, plant;
trim. — Fibrous-rooted plants, transplant
where required ; divide roots. — Grass,
mow and roll. — Gravel, weed and roll.
Green-house plants, remove from bor-
ders to the house. — Hedges, trim; plant;
plash. — Hoe and Rake, as required. —
Layers, make ; they will have to remain
twelve months. — Leaves, gather as they
fall, and store for composts. — Mignio-
nette, shelter. — Pipings of Pinks, &c.,
finish planting to remain. — Planting,
generally, may be done. — Potting, per-
form as required ; dress old potted
plants. — Primulas, all this genus (Poly-
anthus, &c.) may be propagated by slips.
— Prune, generally. — Ranunculuses,
plant. — Seedlings, shelter. — Seeds, fin-
ish gathering. — Suckers, remove and
plant out. — Trench vacant ground. —
Tuberous-rooted plants insert, especially
Pajonies. — Turf may be laid.

HOT-HOUSE.

Air, admit freely every fine day. —
Bark-beds, renovate in fruiting stoves
and succession house. — Fires must be-
gin to be lighted where the old flue
system is followed, e. — Flowering
Sfirubs in pots, introduce for winter
blooming. — Glass, Flues, 4-c., repair, if
not done last month. — Pines, remove
into fruiting stoves, b.; Crowns plant,
if required. — Roses, introduce for
Christmas blooming. — Shifting into
larger pots may be done. — Water nhout
twice weekly.

GREEN-HOUSE.

Air, give freely daily, and at night,
if temp, not so low as 35^. — Camellias,
bud. — Earth, give fresh before return-

OC Y

401

OLY

ing into house. — I^aiw clean, and dress | advanced to the length of one and a
plants before returning to house. — half or two inches), pricking them out
Potted Plants, return all into house, e.; in sand, in the open ground, and cover-
place hardiest back, and tcnderest in ing them with a hand-glass. If treated
front. — Succulent Plants should all be in this manner, the whole of the cut-
in, b. — yVater, give over the foliage tings may be expected to root, and be
after the plants are in house ; give wa- ready for planting out in a month;
ter once or twice weekly. 1 whereas, if deferred until the autumn,

OCYMUM. Basil. Thirteen species. | when the increase of flower-garden
Chiefly hardy annuals, but some are i stock is considered en masse, the pro-
stove evergreen shrubs. See Basil. bability is that not one will succeed."

ODONTARRHENA microphylla. —Card. Chron.
Hardy evergreen trailer. Cuttings. Loam j This mode of culture is applicable to
and peat. j all the perennial species.

ODONTOGLOSSUM. Eight species. OFFSETS are side bulbs produced by
Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood and gome bulbous roots, and by which the
moss. species can be propagated. Whatever

(ECEOCLADES. Two species. Stove checks the upward growth of the parent
epiphytes. Lateral shoots. Wood and plant, as an early breaking down of the
moss. j stem, compels the sap to find other or-

0^ D E R A prolifera. Green-house | gans for its reception, and, consequent-
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam ly, promotes the production of offsets,
and peat. i '< The practice," says Dr. Lindley, " of

(ENOTHERA. Evening Primrose, scarring the centre of bulbs, the heads
Seventeen species. Hardy annuals, of echino cacti, and such plants, and
biennials and perennials, except the the crown of the stem of species like
green-house evergreen shrub CE. cheir- Littaa geminiflora, in all which cases
anthifolia. Seed; and the perennials suckers are the result, is explicable

also by division. Common light soil.

SELECT SHOWY SPECIES.

Perennials.
ffi. Speciosa, white.
(E. >Iacrocarpa, yellow.
(K. Taraxacifolia, white.
(E. Glauca, yellow.
(E. Serotina, yellow.

Annuals.
CE. Rubicunda, pink.
(E. Lindleyana, purplish-rose.
(E. Tenuifolia, purple.
(E. Tetraptera, white.
(E. Odorata, yellow.
CE. Romanzovii, blue.

upon the foregoing principle."

OGECHyE LIME. Nyssacandicans.
OIL NUT. Hamiltonia.
0 K R A. " The Okra is a native of
the West Indies, where it is much used
in soups and stews ; its use is rapidly
increasing here. There are two vari-
eties, the large and the small podded
or capsuled.

" The seeds are planted late in spring,
either in rows or hills, three feet apart ;
the plant thrives readily, and requires
no further care than is requisite to keep
it free from weeds." — Rural Reg.

OLAX. Two species. Stove, ever-
green climbers. Cuttings. Loam and
(Enothera Drummondii, is a fine large peat,
yellow sort, and very ornamental, but OLD-MAN'S-BEARD. Geropogon.
it is tender, and requires the same i OLE A. The Olive. Green-house
treatment as petunias and verbenas. — and stove evergreen trees, except O.
Card. Chron. sativa, which is hardy. Ripe cuttings,

GJ. serotina, is a beautiful autumn and grafting on the Common Privet
flower, and its culture is thus recom- [Ligustrum vulgare). Loam and peat,
mended :— " The bed should be looked OLEANDER. Nerium.
over every morning, and the flowers of! OLEASTER. Elaagnus.
the previous day carried off. This will OLIBANUM. Boswellia.
very considerably add to its beauty. OLIVE. Olea.
Where a quantity of it is wanted for OLIVE-WOOD. Elaodendron.
bedding. May is the fit time to attend OLYNTHIA disticha. Stove ever-
to its propagation, by preparing cut- sreen tree. Young cuttings. Sandy
tings (as soon as the young wood has | loam and peat.
26

OM A

402

ONI

OMALANTHUS populifoUa. Stove i it large specimens may be rapidly ob-
evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings. Peat 1 tained ; but as, with due care, magni-
and loam. ! ficent specimens may be grown in small

OMIME PLANT. Plectranthus ter- pots, annually increased in size when
natus. the plants are shifted, the general adop-

0 M PH AL O BIUM. Two species. ' tion of the one shift system will never
Stove evergreen slirubs. Ripe cuttings. \ be general, accompanied as it is by such
Light loam and peat. i a great sacrifice of space in the stove

OMPHALADES. Eight species, i and green-house.
Hardy annuals and herbaceous peren- ONION. " The Onion is a biennial
nials ; the first being increased by seed plant, supposed to be a native of Spain,
in open borders; the second by divi- i The varieties are numerous. Those es-
sion, in shaded situations. : teemed the best, are the Silver Skin,

ONCI DIUM. Fifty-nine species, j and Large Yellow Strasburgh ; the
Stove epiphytes. Shoots, moss, and ! latter is the best keeper, though perhaps
rotten wood. \ not so delicately flavoured as the Silver

0NH:-SHIFT system in potting, is i Skin,
thus described by Mr. Ayres : — " The | " The Wethersfield red is grown
distinguishing difference of this system e.xtensively in the eastern states, where
is, that instead of taking a plant through i it perfects itself the first season,
all the different-sized pots, from a " It is the practice with the market
thumb to a twenty-four or sixteen, or gardeners of Philadelphia, who grow

any other size thut it may remain
permanently, it is removed to the per-

the Strasburgh and Silver Skin, to the
exclusion of all others, to sow the seed

manent pot at once, or at any rate to i thickly in beds in the middle of spring,
one very considerably larger than is At midsummer they are taken up, and
the general custom; thus in purchasing i placed in a dry airy situation, until the

small specimens of new plants, they
may be placed at once in a twenty-
four, sixteen, or twelve-sized pot, in
which they will remain for four or five
years.

"The principal thing to attend to in
this system will be to have the pots
thoroughly drained ; for if water stag-

succeeding spring, when they are re-
planted ; in this way they get large,
firm, well keeping Onions early in the
season. It should be observed that if
not sown quite thickly they attain too
large a size, and when replanted shoot to
seed. When sown early, and very thin-
ly, on strong ground, bulbs large enough

nates in such a mass of soil, all hope ! for family use, may be had the first sea-
of success will be at end. In growing son ; they do not, however, usually at-
specimen plants, it is a good plan to ! tain a size large enough for the market,
drain the soil with an inverted pot, tak- i When sown in this way, they should
ing great care to prevent the soil from! be frequently hoed, and kept perfectly
falling among the drainage by covering | clean ; and the Wethersfield is perhaps

it securely with moss. Porous stones
of various sizes, in considerable quanti-
ties, sticks in a half-decomposed state,
and even charcoal for some plants,
have been used with satisfiictory re-
sults.

" Another very important point to be
attended to in this system of potting is,
to use the soil as rough as possible.
Plants potted in this way will not re

the best." — Rural Reg.

To save Seed. — To obtain seed, some
old onions must be planted in autumn
or early in Spring. The finest and firm-
est bulbs being selected and planted in
rows ten inches apart each way, either
in drills or by a blunt-ended dibble, the
soil to he rather poorer, if it differs at
all from that in which they are culti-
vated for bulbing. They must be bu-

quire so much attention as those potted \ ried so deep, that the mould just covers
in the usual mannei ; because one wa- t the crown. Early in Spring their leaves
terint; will serve them for several days, ! will appe:ir. If grown in large quanti-

whereas in small pots they would re-
quire constant attention." — Gardener's
Chron.

ties, a path must be left two feet wide
between every three or four rows to
allow the necessary cultivation. They

There is no doubt that this system must be kept thoroughly clear from
much abridges the gardener's labour, weeds, and when in flower have stakes
and there is an equal certainty that by | driven at intervals of five or six feet on

ONI

403

0 R A

each side of every two rows, to which a I Half-hardy herbaceous. Division. Sandy

string is to be fastened throughout the loam and peat.

whole length, a few inches below the j OPHIOXYLON serpentinum. Stove

heads, to serve as a support and prevent ' evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam

their being broken down. The seeds and peat.

are ripe in August, which is intimated 1 OPHRYS. Ten species. Hardy and

by the husks becoming brownish; the half-hardy orchids. Seed. Chalky loam

heads must then be immediately cut
otherwise the receptacles will open and
shed their contents. Being spread on

and peat.

OPLOTHFXA. Two species.

O. florodana is hardy herbaceous, in-

cloths in the sun, and during inclement] creased by division. 0. interivpta is a
weather they soon become perfectly stove biennial, by seed. Both require
dry, when the seed maybe rubbed out, , loam and peat.

cleaned of the chalf, and, after remain- ! OPUNTI.\.. Eighty-seven species,
ing another day or two, finally stored. | Stove cacti, except 0. fragilis and 0.
It is of the utmost consequence to em- missouriensis, which are hardy ; and the
ploy seed of not more than two years | half-hardies, O. media, 0. polyacantha,
old, otherwise not more than one in and O.vxtlgaris. Slips, slightly dried;
fifty will vegetate. The goodness of! sandy peat.

seed may be easily discovered by fore- I ORACH, Atriplex hortensis, is
ing a little of it in a hot-bed or warm cooked and eaten in the same manner
water a day before it is employed ; a , as spinach, to which it is much prefer-
small white point will soon protrude if red by many persons, although it be

See Anthomyia and

it is fertile.

ONION-FLY
Eumfirus.

ONISCUS. 0. asellus, O. armadillo.
Woodlice.

The first is most easily distinguished
from the second by its not rolling up in
a globular form when at rest. They
are found in old dry dunghills, cucum-
ber frames, &c., and they are injurious

longs to a tribe whose wholesonieness
is very suspicious.

Soil and Situation. — It flourishes
best in a rich moist soil, and in an open
compartment. Those, however, of the
autumn sowing require a rather drier
soil.

Soirins;. — It may be sown about the
end of September, and again in the
spring for succession. The sowing to

to many plants, fruits, &c., by gnawing ' be performed in drills six inches apart,
off the outer skin. Gas lime will expel i The plants soon make their appearance.

them from their haunts, and two boards
or tiles kept one-eighth of an inch
apart form an excellent trap. — Gard.
Chron.

ONOBROjVIA. Five species. 0.
glaucum is a hardy annual, and O. ar-
borescens, a green-house shrub, the
others hardy herbaceous. Seed, cut-
tings, or divisions. Common soil.

ONOBRYCHIS. Saititfoin. Twenty-
three species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed.
Chalky loam.

ONOCLEA. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous. Seed and division. Sandy
loam and peat.

ONONIS. Thirty-seven species.
Mostly hardy annuals and shrubby
j)lant3. Seed or cuttings. Loam.

ONOSMA. Sixteen species. Hardy
herbaceous, except the stove O. triner-
vum. Seed. Rich chalkv loam.

O N O S M O D I U M . Two species.
Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Rich light
loam.

OPHIOPOGON. Three species.

being of quick growth. When they are
about an inch high, they must be thin-
ned to six inches asunder, and those
removed may be planted out at the
same distance in a similar situation, and
watered occasionally until established.
At the time of thinning, the bed must
be thoroughly cleared of weeds, and if
they are again hoed during a dry day,
when the plants are about four inches
high, they will require no further at-
tendance than an occasional weeding.
For early production, a sowing may be
in a moderate hot-bed at the same time
as those in the natural ground. The
leaves must be gathered for use whilst
young, otherwise they become stringy
and worthless.

To save Seed. — Some plants of the
spring sowing must be left ungathercd
from, and thinned to about eight inches
apart. The seeds ripen about the end
of August, when the plants must be
pulled up, and when perfectly dry rub-
bed out for use.

OR A

404

ORC

ORANGE. Citrus aurantium. See

Citrus.

ORANGERY is a green-house or
conservatory devoted to the cultivation
of the genus Citrus. The best plan for
the construction of such a building is
that erected at Knowsley Park, and
thus described by the gardener, Mr. J.
W. Jones.

Fig. 104.

"Measured inside, this house is four-
teen and a half yards long, eight broad,
and six high. In the centre of the
house are eight borders, in which the
oranges, &c., are planted ; these borders
are all marked a. The two borders
against the back wall are sixteen inches
broad, and three feet deep. The six
borders immediately in the centre of
the house are fourteen inches broad,

" Two stoves immediately connected
with each end of the orangery contain
the collection of tropical plants bearing
fruit. The communication between
these stoves and the orangery is unin-
terrupted by any glass or other division,
so that the orange tribe are subjected
to nearly as high a temperature as the
tropical plants. The central borders
of the orangery, as may be seen in the
section, are raised a little above each
other, as they recede from the front
of the house. The oranges, citrons,
&c., are all trained as espaliers; a light
wire trellis being stretched from pillar
to pillar parallel with the borders, and
about eight feet high. The spaces, b,
between the borders being about three
feet wide, permit a person to walk
along between the plants, for the pur-
pose of pruning, watering, &c. These
spaces are of the same depth as the
borders, and were originally filled with
tan ; but part of this is now removed,
and its place is filled with good soil.
In this some fine climbing plants have
been turned out, amongst which are
several plants of Passijlora quadrangu-
laris, which bear an abundant crop of
fine fruit. Besides these, there are
also two fine plants of the beautiful
new Gardenia Sherbournia. These,
and other climbers, are trained up the
rafters, &c., in such a manner as not to
materially intercept the light from the
orange. The great advantage of having
the trees trained on the trellis system
is, that every part of the tree is fully
exposed to the light, and by planting
them in rows one behind the other, a
larger surface is obtained for the trees

and three feet deep; the paths are
marked c, the front wall d, and the ; to cover than could be got by adopting
back one e; p, p, p, represent orna- I any other plan; and consequently, for
mental cast iron pillars, which, besides! the space, a larger quantity of fruit is

supporting the roof, serve also to sup
port light wire trellises ; there is one of
these pillars in each row for each rafter.
The house is entirely heated by smoke
flues, two furnaces being placed at /.
The dotted lines along the central path
show the direction of the flues beneath,
from the back to the front entrance,
when they diverge, the one entering a
raised flue, g, on the right, the other
also entering a raised flue on the left.
These flues again cross the house at

procured. The trees being hung loose-
ly and irregularly to the wires, assume
as natural an appearance as circum-
stances will permit, and the introduc-
tion here and there of large plants in
pots has a tendency to prevent formal-
ity. Two plants are placed in each
border." — Gard. Chron.

O R B E A . Twenty-three species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttingsslight-
ly dried ; sandy loam and lime rubbish.

ORCHARD is an inclosure devoted

each end, and the smoke escapes by ; to the cultivation of hardy fruit trees,
the back wall; it being found incon- I In it may be, as standards, apple-trees,
venient to place the furnaces in any most sorts of pears and plums, and all
Other situation. | sorts of cherries, which four are the

ORG

4Q5

ORG

chief orchard fruits; but to have a com- \ Let several varieties of each particu-
piete orchard, also quinces, medlars, lar species be chosen that ripen their
mulberries, service trees, filberts, nuts, fruit at different times from the earliest
berberries, walnuts, and chestnuts must to the latest, according to the nature of
be included. The two latter are par- > the different sorts, that there may be a
ticularly applicable for the boundaries sufficient supply of every sort during
of orchards, to screen the other trees their proper season ; and of apples and
from impetuous winds. A general or- pears, in particular, choose a much
chard composed of all the before men- greater quantity of the autumnal and
tioned fruit trees, should consist of a late ripening kinds, than the early sorts ;
double portion of apple trees. With but most of all of apples ; for the surn-
respect to the situation and aspect for mer ripening fruit is but of short dura-
an orchard, avoid very low damp situa- tion, only proper for temporary service ;
tions as much as the nature of the place but the latter ripening kinds keep sound
will admit: for in very wet soils no some considerable time for autumn and
fruit trees will prosper, nor the fruit be winter use. The arrangement of the
fine; but a moderately low situation, trees in the orchard must be in rows,
free from copious wet, may be more each kind separate, at distances ac-
eligible than an elevated ground, as cordini: to the nature of growth of
being less exposed to tempestuous i the different sorts; but for the larger
winds; though a situation having a growing kinds, such as apples, pears,
small declivity is very desirable, espe- plums, cherries, &c., they should stand
cially if its aspect incline towards the from twenty-five to thirty or forty feet
east, souih-east, or south, which are every way asunder, though twenty-five
rather more eligible than a westerly or thirty feet at most is a reasonable
aspect; but a north aspect is the worst distance for all these kinds. Each spe-
cies and its varieties should generally
be in rows by themselves, the better
to suit their respective modes of growtti.
Stake the new planted trees, to support
them in their proper position, and se-
cure them from being rocked to and

of all for an orchard, unless particu
larly compensated by the peculiar tem
perament or good quality of the soil.
Any common field or pasture that pro-
duces good crops of corn, grass, or
kitchen garden vegetables, is suitable
for an orchard ; if it should prove of a ! fro by the wind, which would greatly

loamy nature, it will be a particular
advantage ; any soil, however, of a good
quality, not too light and dry, or too
heavy, stubborn, or wet, but of a me-
dium nature, friable and open, with not
less than one spade deep of good staple,
will be proper.

Preparation of the Ground. — The
preparation of the ground for the re-
ception of the trees is by trenching one
or two spades, as the soil will admit.
And if in grass, turn the sward clean
to the bottom of each trench, which
will prove an excellent manure. The

retard their rooting afresh, placing two
or three strong tall stakes to each tree ;
but the most effectual method is to have
three stakes to each, placed in a trian-
gle, meeting at top near the head of
the tree, wrapping a hayband round
that part of the stem, to prevent its
being barked by the stakes or tying;
then tie the stakes at top close to the
tree with some proper bandage, bring-
ing it close about the stem and stake*
together, over the hay wrapping, so as
to secure the tree firmly in an erect
posture. If laid down in grass no cai-

ground must be fenced securely against tie should be turned in to graze at
cattle, &c., either with a good ditch [ large, unless the stem of each tree is
and hedge, or with a paling fence, as i previously well secured with posts and

may be most convenient.

railing, or wattled with thorn bushes,

Method of Planting; the Trees. — The especially in young orchards, otherwise
season for planting all the sorts of fruit I they will bark the trees; nor bIioiiUI
trees is autumn, soon after the fall of j large cattle l)e turned into orchards,
the leaf, from about the latter end of; where the branches of the trees are yet
October until December, though it may low and within their reach. — Abercrorn-
be performed any time in open weather, I bie. See Tree-Guard.
from October until March or April ; on ORCHIDEOUS PLANTS are chiefly
light land the autumn is usually pre- 1 herbaceous, a very few are even semi-
ferred, on heavy land the spring is best. 1 frutescent ; but all are characterized

ORC

406

ORC

either by singular beauty or fragrance ; I P>ia.
and, as many of tliem are extremely { Dendrobium.
impatient of cultivation, they have of Anisopetalum.
late years obtained great attention Ca;logyne.
from horticulturists; and pre-eminent Malaxis.
among these, are Dr. Lindley, Mr. Microstylis.
Lodiges, Mr. Bateman, Mr. Paxton, Liparis.
Mr. Catley, Mr. Clowes, &c.

Calypso.

Pleurothallis.

Stanhopea.

Stelis.

Cypripedium.

Saccolabium.

Goodyera.

Thelymitra.

Diuris.

Orthoceras.

Cryptostylis.

Ponthieva.

Prasophyllum.

Calochilus.

Neottia.

Pelexia.

Listera.

Stenorhynchus

Arethusa.

Calopogon.

Pogonia.

Microtis.

Acianthus.

Cyrtostylis.

Chiloglottis,

Eriochilus.

Caladenia.

Lyperanthus.

Glossodia.

Pterostylis.

Epipactis.

Cephalanthera.

Corallorhiza.

Caleya.

Corysanthes.

Prescotia.

Gastrodia.

Vanilla.

Orchis.

Glossula.

Anacamptis.

Nigritella.

Aceras.

Ophrys.

Serapias.

Disa.

Habenaria.

Gymnadenia.

Platanthera.

Chamorchis.

Herminium.

Barthoiina.

Bonatea.

Satyrium.

Pterogodium.

Disperis.

GENERA.

I Corycium.
Calanthe.
Octomeria.
Maxillaria.
Camaridium.
Ornithidium.
Pholidota.
Megaclinium.
Ornithocephalus.
Cryptarrhena.
Aerides.
Vanda.
Sarcanthus.
Aeranthes.
Angrfficum.
lonopsis.
Renanthera.
Cymbidium.
Cirrhsa.
Lissochilus.
Sarcochilus.
Geodorum.
Dipodium.
Oncidium.
Macradenia.
Brassia.
Cyrtopodium.
Zygopetalum.
Catasetum.
Anguioa.
Ceratochilus.
Encyclia.
Heterotaxis.
Eulophia.
Xylobium.
Polystachya.
Gongora.
Trizeuxis.
Rodriguezia.
Sophronitis.
Fernandesia.
Tribrachia.
Gomeza.
Notylia.
Bletia.
Brassavola.
Epidendrum.
Cattleya.
Broughtonia.
Isochilus.

Tender Orchideous Plants. — Dr. Lind-
ley has given the following selections
from the foregoing, with statements as
to their appropriate modes of growth : —

" To grow orchidaceous plants in
the highest state of perfection, several
houses would be requisite ; for exam-
ple, there should be a cool house for
those which inhabit the high lands of
Mexico and Guatemala ; a warm and
moist one for others which grow in the
hot damp valleys of India, and other
parts of the tropics ; a third, kept warm
and dry, for containing those which are
in a state of rest; and a fourth for
plants in flower. But, however beauti-
ful and interesting this tribe may be,
few persons would go to this expense;
and many have succeeded admirably in
growing a selection mixed with other
stove plants. It is difficult to give di-
rections for the management of a house
of this kind without seeing it, but the
following should be attended to. Keep
the orchidaceous plants as much toge-
ther as possible, either at one side, or
along the front itself. This is neces-
sary in order that they may be kept more
moist or shaded than the other plants.
If the house fronts the south, shade
will be indispensable during bright sun-
shine in summer and autumn. The
temperature of it during the dull months
of winter, that is from November to
February, should not exceed 60° by
night. As the spring advances, raise
it to 60° and 70°, and it may be kept
at that as long as artificial heat is ne-
cessary. If the summer and autumn
are warm, no fire will be required for
two or three months. Always allow
the temperature to sink several degrees
lower at night than during the day. If
this is done, and the stove kept damp
enough, the plants will be covered with
dew in the morning. The following is
a list of those most suitable.

" 1. To be grown in pots and placed
near the warmest end of the stove.
Dendrobium noblle, one of the most
lovely yet known. Oncidium papilio,
an interesting kind, having flowers like

ORC

407

ORC

a butterfly. Peristeria elala, the beau- 1 flowers downwards in the same direc-
tiful dove flower. Miltonia Candida,' tion as the roots, and have a very curi-
Cattleya labiata, C. Mossia, C. rrispa, ous appearance." — Card. Chron.

C. intermedia, C. Harrisoniala : these
flower in great profusion during sum-
mer, and are remarkable for their great
beauty. Cymbidium sinense, with dingy
coloured flowers, but very fragrant.
Zygopelalum, Mackaii, Z. intermedium,
Z. crinitum, very showy and sweet-

Hardy Orchideous Plants. — M. F.Otto
lias written as follows upon these: —

" The best time for transplanting
Orchises is early in autumn, when the
plants are in a state of rest, and the
cultivator must devise the means of
finding them, although they are almost

scented. Brassia caudata, B.Lanceana, withered upon the ground.

and B. maculata. Acantliaphippium bi-

They grow much better if placed

color is easily cultivated, and produces between other plants, as they find theui
a nest of flowers in spring. Gon^ora selves in their natural situation

atropurpurea likes heat and moisture,
the flowers are striking and curious.

" 2. To be grown in pots and placed in
the coolest end of the stove. Oncidium
Cavendishianum produces large spikes
of yellow flower. Cattleya Skinneri,
Epidendrum Stamfordianum, whose
flowers hang very gracefully, and the

" They should be brought into the
garden not only with the whole of their
ball of earth, but also with all the sorts
of plants belonging to it. They never
thrive so well as if they stood among
the other plants whicli naturally sur-
round them.

" Experience has taught that the

violet markings of them are delicate ; greater part of the Swiss and Tyrolese

and beautiful. Trichopilia tortilis with
finely spotted flowers. Catassetnm
tnaculatum, and Pkasius grandifolius,
which should be kept near the light,
and is very thirsty while growing.
Maxillaria aromatica and M. cruenta

Alpine Orchises, as well as those fro'm
the south of Europe, are cultivated in
pots, but in this situation the plants
weaken from year to year, until the
tubercles at last disappear. If we would
retain them longer in our gardens, par-

have fine yellow flowers, highly fra- ticular attention must be paid to the

grant. M. tenuifolia has pretty spotted
flowers. Cyrtochilium maculatum, and
several varieties of it, are well worth
cultivation.

3. To be suspended in baskets, or

soil in which they grow, and it would
probably be best to cultivate them in
boxes, which may be covered during
the winter months.

" It may be useful to those who would

on blocks of wood near the warmest collect the northern species into gar-

end. Dendrohium cucullatum, macula-
turn, and fimhriatum, the former with
rose coloured, the latter with pretty
yellow fringed flowers. Oncidium am-

dens, to know the situation and soil in
which they naturally grow.

" Malaxis paludosa upon very wet
peat earth, among sphagnum. Coral-

pliatum, large varieties; 0. Lanceanum, lorrhiza injiatn upon stumps of roots in
one of the best of the genus, will also i wooded peaty marshes. Liparis Loc-
do well in a pot. Aerides odoratum, selii, in peat meadows, among sphag-
very sweet; Saccolabium guttatum ;' num. Orchis morio, in meadows and
both of these want a very warm and pastures. O. pnlustris, in damp mea-
moist situation, but their beautiful rose dows, often half under water. O. mas-
and lilac blossoms wil
trouble.

repay any cula, in meadows and pastures. O.

pallens, upon chalk, in mountain pas-

"4. To be suspended in baskets, or tures. 0. militans, in meadows. 0.

blocks of wood near the coolest end of /usco, upon chalk, in mountain mea-

the stove. Laliaautumnalis, L. albida, dows. 0. cor/op/iora, in meadows. 0.

and L. anceps, are very ornamental, re-
sembling Cattleyas. Oncidium leuco-
chilum is easily grown, and the delicate
white of the lip contrasts well with the

ustulata, in meadows. O. glohosa, in
meadows. 0. sambucina, in meadows.
0. maculata, in very dry meadows. O.
latifolia, in meadows. O. anacamptis

brown markings of the other parts of pyramidalis, in meadows. O. gymnn-
the flower. Odontoglossum grande, denia conopsea, in meadows. O. con-
whose flowers are very large and par- densijlora, in meadows. O. plalan-
ticularly striking. Stanhopea tigrina thera bifolia, in dry meadows, on
and several other species send their mountains, and in forests. O. hermin-

ORC

408

ORC

ium monarchis, in meadows. Ophrys ; and the shelves, b b, are of slate.
myodes, in shady forests, particularly ; Parallel with the shelves, and separa-
upon chalk. 0. arachnites, in mea- ting them from the narrow part of the
dews, also upon limestone. 0. aj3)/era, lake, are beds, c d, raised two feet
upon limestone hills. Epipogium : and a half above the level of the floor,
gmetini, upon mouldering roots of and each furnished in the middle with
trees, in mountainous woods. Spiran-^ a tank, c c, the water of which is heated
thes autumnalis, in meadows. Neottia by a turn of pipe passing through it.
Nidusavis, •growing upon roots of trees, At the north end, the house is closed
in woods. Listera ovata, in damp by a solid wall, covered with bark and
places, in common woods. L. cordata, rough projections for ferns and such
in mountain meadows and woods, plants, at the other end it opens into
Epipactis latifolia, in forests. E. atro- \ what is called the plant house by two
rubens, in mountain woods, particu- doors. The heating apparatus consists
larly upon limestone. E. viridifiora, in ' of a boiler, b, at the close end of pipes
shady places. E. palustris, in mea- running through the water and under
dows. Goodyera repens, in fir woods the slate shelves.

among moss. Cephalanthera rubra, in " The heating apparatus," Mr.
shady woods. C. ensifolia, in shady Butcher says, " is found to suit admi-
forests. Cypripedium calceolus, in ; rably as regards the temperature, both

shady woods." — Gard. Chron.

Stove for Tender Species. — The fol
lovying is the plan of a stove for these

of the house and of the lake and tanks
of water. The circulation of heat be-
ing continued under water, commu-

plants erected at Ealing Park, and for nicates sufficient warmth for the double
which I am indebted to the Gardener's \ purpose of creating an evaporation
Chronicle. : beneficial to the plants, and making

the water of suitable temperature when
applied by syringe or watering pot.

" We can always command ten de-
grees of heat in this house above the
temperature of the plant stove, con-
nected with and heated by the same
apparatus, an arrangement of some
importance, as it allows for placing in
the plant stove those Orchidaceae which
require a lower temperature when in a
state of rest.

" The boiler is formed of cylindrical
pipes placed in rows alternately above
each other, all heated by one or two
fires at pleasure.

'• From the roof as well as from trees
placed in the centre of the lake, we
suspend the Orchidacese in baskets ;
and on logs of wood on the two large
raised pits and vvide shelves around
the house, which complete the internal
arrangements, we place plants in pots.
Those of your readers conversant with
floricultural affairs during that period,
" The roof consists of three spans, may remember the many prizes which
which cover a breadth of something have been awarded to specimens from
more than fifty feet, and is supported our collection, and as this fact forbids
by columns, c c, to which creepers are > the charge of presumption, I will ex-
trained. In the centre is an irregular : plain our mode of treatment by tak-
piece of water, a a, called the ' lake,' ing the genus Zygopetalum for an in-
surrounded by rock-work edging, stance.

heated by pipes passing through it , " When the plants are commencing
from the boiler b, and containing aqua- I their growth, (generally about the
tic plants. The flooring of the house tnonth of October,) a pot of suitable size

ORC

409

ORC

is filled three parts full of potsherds ! to shine powerfully upon plants that
and the remainder with close peat, have just left their winter quarters. In
fastened down with pegs of wood. I j order to secure as much light as possi-
prefer close peat for this genus, as I \ ble, many species should be suspended
have found it do better than in lighter in the air from rafters or chains, some
or more fibrous peat. being placed on blocks of wood, (cork-

" The plant so potted is then placed wood is the best,) or fragments of co-
in the Orchidaceous house, tempera- coa-nut husks, and others in baskets of
ture ranging from sixty to seventy de- wire or wicker work filled with moss
grees, the atmosphere moist, the plant an<l broken peat, or in pots with pierced
kept moist and more liberally supplied sides. The latter answer perfectly for
with water as it advances in growth. plants (e. g. the Saccolabiums) which

" When it has completed its growth, are of slow growth, and thrust their
it is removed to the plant-stove where roots into the air. Baskets answer best
the temperature is from fifty to sixty for Stanhopeas and the like. To pre-
degrees, and water is given sparingly, vent injury from the ravs of the sun,

but the plant is never allowed to be
come quite dry. It there remains un-
til it again commences growth, when
it undergoes the same routine as be-
fore."

Compost. — The best we have noticed

shading is of course necessary ; but this
should be so arranged as to be easily
removed, as it ought not to be con-
tinued for more than ten or twelve
hours on the very longest summer's
day. Exotic climbing plants introduced

good effect.

"2d. Take care of the roots. On

is this recommended by Mr. T. Apple- sparingly are advantageous, and have a

by:- ■ -

" Procure a quantity of sphagnum or
common bog moss, have it dried and the health of the roots everything de-
then chopped small. To this add half- pends. The winter is with them the
rotten willow or poplar wood, on ac- most critical season, for if suffered to
count of their lightness and the absence grow too dry, they shrivel up and per-
of resin, chopped into small pieces of ish, if too wet they rot. Much of course
various sizes, the largest not bigger depends upon the mode in which the
than pigeons' eggs. To these add the plants are potted, and which should be
under stratum of sphagnum, which has such as to admit of their readily parting
become almost peat, likewise chopped with all superfluous moisture, and to se-
fine, the whole in about equal parts. | cure this, nothing is better than a plen-

" These make altogether a light open titui admixture of broken pots-herds,

compost, which appears admirably to High potting is now so generally prac-

suit the plants, as they root in it freely i tised in good collections, that it is need-

and thrive ; I use it chiefly for the spe- less to insist upon its importance,

cies that grow upon trees. For such " Rapidly growing plants, such as the

as grow upon the ground, I use stronger different species of Phains, Gongora,

compost." — Gard. Chron.

Peristerice, Stanhopea, &c., require to

Culture. — The following general sug- be broken up and entirely repotted

gcstions are from Mr. Bateman's most every second or third year; on the

valuable work on the Orchidaceae of other hand, there are some air plants,

Mexico and Guatemala : — &c., that may remain undisturbed for

" Supposing the plants established in five or ten years together.

a suitable house, then the following 3d. Beware of noxious insects. Or-

rules will be found to contain all that cbidaceae are more particularly exposed

is most essential for their successful to the attacks of the following insects :
management. I woodlice, crickets, and cockroaches,

" 1st. The plants can scarcely have the thrip, a minute woolly white scale,

too much light or too little sun. Light and a diminutive species of snail, the

prevents mildew, strengthens the fibre, two last being infinitely the most per-

and checks the disposition to throw uo nicious. Woodlice are easily kept in

a succession of weakly shoots, which check by placing the plants on saucers,

are quite incompatible with the produc- or within troughs filled with water, es-

tion of flowers. The sun, on the con- pecially if the valuable aid of a few

trary, scorches and turns the leaves toads be called in. The Oniscampitre

yellow, especially when it first begins Epiphyte Stand, invented by Mr. Lyons,

ORC

410

ORC

is an ingenious and no doubt effectual
way of accompiisliing the same end. It
is made by merely fixing a forked
branch or back of wood, to the raised
centre of a massive saucer or feeder,
which being kept constantly full of
water, forms a sort of foss, impassable
to vermin, round the plant it is intended
to guard; crickets and cockroaches are
very fond of flour scapes, and to be
dreaded accordingly ; red wafers scat-
tered over sand among the pots are to
them very tempting baits, and if swal-
lowed, the red lead they contain acts as
a poison; but these pests are best de-
stroyed by the mixture recommended
for the white scale. The thrip does
not do much mischief, except where
plants are either neglected or grown in
too hot and dry a temperature. It
usually first appears among the lataseta,
and is to be removed by careful wash-
ing. Small snails abound in some col-
lections, while in others they are un-
known: it is difficult to conjecture
whence they come, and all but impos-
sible to eradicate them entirely. They
batten upon the tenderest roots, such
as plants put forth when they are just
beginning to grow, and if not kept in
check would speedily produce irre-
trievable mischief. Lettuce leaves,
slices of potato, turnips, &c., are very
enticing, and while they divert the at-
tention of the enemy from the roots,
they also afford an opportunity of cap-
turing him. The collections which are
watered exclusively with rain water are
the least infested. But the worst plague
of all is the small white scale, which in
its first insidious approaches, appears
only as a white speck upon the leaves,
then covers them with a soft whitish
down, and finally kills them. For this
the following remedy will be found ef-
ficacious, viz. : dissolve half a pound of
camphor in a pint of spirits of wine, the
result will be an impalpable powder, to
which add one pound of scotch snuff,
one ditto pepper, one ditto sulphur, and
keep in a bottle carefully stopped. This
mixture should be dusted over the in-
fected parts, and repeated whenever
or wherever the enemy shows itself.
If persisted in for some time the mix-
ture rarely fails to effect a perfect cure;
and it has the further good property of
acting as a more deadly poison to cock-
roaches, &c., which have quite disap-
peared in the collection at Knypersley

since this mixture came into frequent
use. Besides the above annoyances,
the red spider and the brown scale are
frequently injurious, but never except
in cases of gross neglect.

4th. Give the plants a season of rest.
Without a season of rest most plants
will not live at all, and others do so
very imperfectly. It is easily accom-
plished in a variety of ways, eitlier by
moving the plants from the warmer to
the cooler end of the house, or by di-
minishing the quantity of water, or by
placing them in a cooler house. Even
exposure in a hot dry atmosphere, al-
though it scorches their leaves, not
unfreqently throws them into vigorous
flower. Plants from the East Indies
and from other climates, where the ex-
tremes of drought and wet are not felt
so severely as in Brazil or Hindostan,
require a season of rest proportionally
short, and of a less decided character.

" 5th. Attend to the condition of the
air. In winter, 60^ to Goo is a whole-
some temperature for most of the spe-
cies; in the summer it may rise to 70^
or 75o, or even higher if derived from
the heat of the sun. Where there are
two houses, the warmer one should not
be lower than 70^^ even in winter, but
fortunately there are comparatively few-
kinds that insist upon so hot a berth.

" The air should always be soft and
nearly saturated with moisture. The
latter should, however, be prevented
from dripping upon the plants as it
condenses, and this is easily effected by
fixing a small copper pipe or piece of
channeled wood under each rafter and
sish-bar, to catch and carry off the
water.

" 6th. Do not over-water. This a
beginner is very apt to do, and a griev-
ous fault it is. When plants do not
shrivel or flag, it is a sign that they are
content with the humidity that the at-
mosphere of the house supplies. When
watering is necessary, it should not be
done indiscriminately, but according to
the wants of particular plants. It is
also of great importance to use rain
water only, which may be collected for
the purpose in a tank, as shown in the
plan of Mr. Rucher's house, and which
should not be applied of a temperature
below 60*^.

" Syringing in moderation maybe had
recourse to in hot weather. Some of
the sobralias, together with bromheadia

ORC

411

OT I

Sandy

palustris, grow more vigorously if their
pots are set in saucers of water during

the snininer months.

" To the foregoing rules the following
advice uiay be added. Do not aim at
liaving too large a collection, but rather
strive to grow a few good kinds in the
best style."

ORCHIS. Thirty species. Chiefly
hardy orchids. Seed. Chalky loam and
peat.

ORIGANUM. Marjoram. Eight spe-
cies and some varieties. Hardy herba-
ceous and half-hardy evergreen shrubs.
The former are increased by division ;
the latter by slips and cuttings,
loam. See Marjoram.

ORMOSIA. Two species,
evergreen trees. Cuttings,
peat.

ORNITHIDIUM. Two species.
Stove epiphvtes.

ORNITHOCEPHALUS. Two species.
Stove ep'phytes. Both these genera
are increased by dividing the bulbs, and
planting them in moss and wood.

ORNITHOGALUM. Fifty-nine spe-
cies. Hardy, half-hardy, and green-
liouse bulbs. Otfsets. Sandy loam and
peat.

ORNITHOGLOSSUM. Two species.
Green-house bulbs. Offsets. Sandy loam
and peat.

ORNIX rhodophagella. Rose Moth.
Mr. Kollar says that — " In early spring,
as soon as the rose tree begins to bud,
if the new leaf-shoots are closely ex-
amined, a little brownish seed is found
here and there attached to them, in
which a worm — the larva of a small
moth, is concealed, which gnaws the
tender shoots. When it has devoured

They immediately form for themselves
small cases of parts of the leaves, and
pass the winter in them at the root of
the rose-tree."

ORNUS. Flowering ash. Five spe-
cies. Hardy deciduous trees. Seed
and grafting, or buddingj on common
ash. Light loam.

O 110 13 US. Thirty-eight species.
Hardy herbaceous, except O. saxatitis,
which is annual, and O. Americanus, a
green-house evergreen shrub. Seed
and division. Light loam.

ORTEGIA. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous. Seed and cuttings. Sandy
Sandy loam and peat, well drained.

0RTH0T,TiNIA, 0. resinella, tur-
Stove I pentine moih ; O. turionana, bud tor-
trix. See Tortrix.

ORTHROSANTHUS multiflorus.
Green-house herbaceous. Seed and di-
vision. Loam and peat.

OSAGE-Al'PLE. Maculura.

OSBECKIA. Six species. Stove
shrubs, deciduous, and evergreen.
Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

OSIER. Salix viminalis.

OSMITES. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Light
rich soil.

OSxMUNDA. Seven species. Hardy
ferns. Seed and division. Light rich
ioam.

OSTEOSPERMUM. Thirteen spe-
cies. Green-house evergreen shrubs.
Cuttings. Light rich loam.

OSTRYA. Hop-hornbeam. Two spe-
cies. Hardy decii'uous tree. Seed and
layers. Common soil.

"OTANTHUS MariliiMis. Hardy her-
baceous. Cuttings. Sandy loam.

OTHOUNA. Twenty-six species.

one shoot it removes, with its house, Green-house evergreen shrubs, herba

and attacks another: and thus
short time, one of these larva; can strip
a whole branch of its shoots. The larva,
which lives in the little case, is only a
few lines long, yellow, with a black
head, and black spotted collar. It un-
dergoes pupation in its case.

" The moth appears at the end of
May. It is only tliree lines long, car-
ries it wings very close to its body — al-
most wrapped round it. The whole

ceous, and bulbs, except O. tagetes, an
annual. This is increased by seed,
and the others by cuttings, division, or
offsets. Light rich loam.

OTIORHYNCUS suZra/us. The suc-
culent Weevil. Mr. Curtis remarks
that: —

" Sedums, and other succulents, in
green-houses, will frequently be ob-
served to get sickly, ami perhaps die,
without any apparent reason. When

body is silvery shining gray, the upper, this is the case they should be carelully
wings strewed with minute black dots, j examined, and the grubs of the weevil
deeply fringed at the posterior edge, will be found to have eaten off the plant
The moth lays her eggs in May on the close to the surface of the soil,
buds of the rose tree, and the caterpil- 1 " These grubs are about half an inch
lars are hatched at the end of June, llong, of a dirty white colour, thick aud

OTI

413

OX A

fleshy, slightly curvei^, and having nu-
merous short rigid hairs on the body.
About the middle of May these grubs
change into white pupae, which have no
cocoons, but are placed in oval cells, in
the earth, perfectly smooth on the in-
side. They remain in the pupa state
about fourteen days, and become bee-
tles. In this latter state they are quite
black, and the elytra, or wing-cases,
are rather deeply furrowed. In the
Berlin Botanic Garden they have been
found to infest the roots of saxifrages
and trollius, growing in the open bor-
der, and cause their death.

" The only methods of destroying
them are, at this time of the year, to
examine the roots of sedums and other
succulent plants, and crush all that may
be found ; and in June, when the per-
fect insects appear, to look among the
pots, where they are usually lurking,
and kill them as soon as they come out,
before they have time to deposit their
eggs." — Gard. Chron.

O. tenebricosus. Red-legged garden-
weevil. Mr. Curtis says, —

" The maggots of the red-legged
garden-weevil are found round the base
of the stems of wail-fruit, sometimes
in very great quantities, a few inches
below the surface, where they undergo
their transformations. The beetles,
which are old offenders, come out only
at night to feed upon the buds of wall-
fruit, doing great mischief to apricots,
peaches, nectarines, plums, &c. They
first destroy the fruit, and subsequently
attack the bark and leaves, so as not
unfrequently to endanger the life of the
trees. They commence their depreda-
tions in April by eating the unexpanded
blossom-buds, clearing out the centre,
and leaving only the external bractea,
and occasionally fragments of the im-
mature leaves. They will thus proceed
along a branch until all the buds are
destroyed, and afterwards demolish the
young eyes which ought to produce
wood-shoots, until nothing is left but
the bare branches.

" The beetles bury themselves by
day in the earth, close to the founda-
tion of the wall to which the trees are
trained, likewise round the stems of
the trees, and most probably in chinks
of the bricks, and other dark hiding-
places. When recently hatched it is
clothed with a delicate yellow pube-
Bcence, forining little irregular spots

upon the elytra ; but they soon wear
off and disappear, when it becomes of
a shining black, inclining to a pitch-
colour.

" The larvae of these otiorhynci being
as destructive as the perfect beetles,
the main object ought to be to destroy
the former, if possible, in the autumn,
which probably would be most readily
effected by stirring the earth all along
the base of the wall and round the
stems of the fruit-trees, and then sprin-
kling salt pretty thickly over the broken
surface; or salt and water, or, perhaps,
liquid-manure, might be equally bene-
ficial— if hot the better; for it seems
evident, from the peculiar spots in
which they generate, or rather undergo
their transformations, that situations
sheltered in a great measure from the
wet are most congenial to their habits.
The beetles can only be arrested by
hand-picking, with a candle and lan-
tern, and afterwards pouring boiling
water upon them, as their shells resist
moderate heat." —Gard. Chron.

0. notatus attacks the young shoots
of the raspberry and rose, piercing

j them to the pith.

OXALIS. Wood-sorrel. One hun-
dred and twenty-four species. Chiefly

I green-house half-hardy and hardy bulbs,
though some are shrubs, others herba-

} ceous, and a few annuals. The bulbs

; are increased by offsets, the shrubs by

I cuttings, the herbaceous by division,
and the annuals by seed. They all
thrive in sandy loam, manured with

j leaf mould. See Sorrel.

0. Deppii. — Plant bulbs of this in
pots, at the beginning of March, and
shelter in a cold pit or green-house.

I When all fear of frost is passed plant
them in a light soil, and in a southern

i aspect, about twelve inches apart each
way; or the bulbs may be kept out of
the ground altogether until the middle
of April, and then be planted at once
in the open soil. It should be trenched,
and a little manure turned in with the
bottom spit, as for other tap-rooted
crops. The scaly bulbs, from which it
is propagated, grow in a cluster round
the crown of the root. The only culti-
vation required, is to keep the crop
free from weeds, and to water plenti-
fully in dry weather ; otherwise, if the
roots are allowed to become dry, they
split upon the occurrence of moist
weather. Protect from early frosts, in

OX-E

413

V JEN

October or November, by a mat cover-
ing.

About ten roots are enough for a
dish. They are very useful as a vege-
table from early in October to the end

OZOTHAMNUS. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs, proba-
bly hardy. Young Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

PACHIDKNDRON. Seven species.

of December; and Mr. Cockburn, gar- Green-house tree aloes. Suckers and

dener to the Earl of Mansfield, at
Canewood, thinks they would be more
cultivated if better known. An inferior |
kind has oflen been substituted for it,
viz., the Oxalis Jacquiniana ; but this
is distinguished by having pink flowers.
In Belgium, the loaves, being gratel'ully '
acid, are used for the same purposes
as sorrel, and the flowers are mixed
with other salad herbs. — Gard. Chron.
182, and Hort. Trans, of Load. iii. N.
S. 30.

As it is not a very common vegetable,
it may be useful to slate, as an improved
mode of cooking, that after peeling the
tubers, and cleaning out their hollow
centres, they must be well boiled in
rich stock (gravy), skimming otf the fat,
and then be served up hot, with a sauce
made of a little butter heated until
brown, with a spoonfull of flour, and a
little of the stock.

0.\-EYE. Bupthalmum.
OX-EYE DAISY. Chrysanthemum
leucanthemum.
OX- LI P. Primula elatior.
OXYANTHUS speciosus. Stove ever-
green shrub. Young cuttings. Loam
and peat : abundant watering.

OXYBAPHUS. Twelve species.
Chiefly hardy and half-hardy trailers
and creepers. Seed. Common soil.

OXYCOCCUS. Cranberry. Three
species. Hardy evergreens. See Ame-
rican Cranberry.

OXYLOBIUM. Ten species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Loam, peat, and sand.

O X Y P E T A L U M appendiadatum.
Stove evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

OXYRIA reniformis. Mountain sor-
rel. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Com-
mon soil.

OXYSTELMA ,esculentum. Stove
evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

OXYTROPIS. Twenty-eight species.
Hardy herbaceous alpines. Seed. Sandy
loam and peat.

OXYURA chrysanthemoides. Hardy
annual. Seed. Common soil.

OYSTER-SHELLS. See Animal Mat-
ters.

leaves, slightly dried. Sandy loam and
calcareous rubbish.

PACHYPODIUM. Two species.
Green-house deciduous succulents. Cut-
tings, slightly dried. Sandy turfy loam
and peat.

PACHYRHIZAS angulatus. Stove
evergreen twiner. Tubers, seed, and
cuttings. Rich light loam.

PACHYSANDRA procumfte/js. Hardy
herbaceous ; and P. coriacea, stove ever-
green shrub. Division or suckers. Com-
mon soil.

P/EDERIA fwtida. Stove evergreen
shrub. Cuttings. Rich light loam.

P.^DEROTA. Two species. Hardy
Alpine annuals. Seed. Sandy loam.

P.^ONIA. Paiony. Twenty-two spe-
cies, and many varieties. The follow-
ing are most worthy of cultivation : —
P. albiflora, white.

— Candida, pinky.

— fragrans, red.

— Humeii, red.

— Potsii, crimson.

— Richardsonii, white.

— rubescens, pink.

— albitlora tartarica, pinky.
Whitlcjii, rosy.

— anomala, crimson.

— arborea, pink.

— aretina Andersoni, rosy.

— lobata, purple.

— officinalis sabini, crimson,

— albicans, white.

— Baxteri, crimson.

— carnescens, pinky.

— rosea, red.

paradoxa timbriata, purple.

peregrina Byzantina, dark

purple.

compacta, pur-

ple.

— Russii, crimson.

— sinensis, pink.

— tenuifolia tlore pleno, red.

— moutan, tree paeony, purple.
• albida-plena, white.

anemoneflora striata, rose

and white.

anneslei, purplish pink.
Banksii, or Humeii, purple.
■ carnea plena, rosy white.

P^O

414

p;eo

p. moutan chrysanthemiflora, rose and spring place them where a little artifi-

and yellow.

Compte de Paris, dark rose

elegans, white and sulphur.

cial heat is used ; they will then begin
to grow and make good plants, fit for
planting out in the autumn.

By Layering, which is performed

rosy white.

hericartiana, bright rose and in the following manner : —

lacera, bright rosy red.

Select, either in October or Februa-
ry, some of the bottom shoots which

— jutea variegata, rosy white I are of the preceding year's growth;

and yellow.

lutea alba, rose and cream.

papaveracea, white.

plenissima, li-

lac.

rosy white.

pumicea, carmine.
Rawesii, pink,
rosa-gallica, rosy red.
• rosea, pink,
plena, red.
semiplena, red.
speciosa, pink.

- striata, rose and

ing white.

sulphuria, sulphur' becom-

variegata, white and purple.

All the shrubby kinds are increased
by cuttings, the same as is detailed
hereafter in the cultivation of the tree
paeony. The herbaceous kinds are
propagated by dividmg the roots ; and
new varieties of all are raised from
seed. A rich light loam suits them.

Tree-P^eony. p. moutan. Dr.
Lindley's directions for cultivating this j ther doubtful,
are as follow : —

"Propagation. — It is easily increas-
ed, and in several ways, when the
plants are rather large and old ; but
when they are small and young it is
rather difficult, and should not be at-
tempted. They should be rather en-
couraged by watering freely during dry
weather in summer ; by mulching with
a little rotten dung, and covering with
a band-glass, during the winter

tongue and peg them down in the usual
way, covering the layers, about three
inches, with a mixture of light sandy
peat, leaf-mould, and a little water in
dry weather ; but they must remain for
two years attached to the mother-plant.
There is another way of layering the
tree-paeony, which is by selecting early
in spring some of the bottom branches
or stems, ringing them, with a sharp
knife, about one inch above and below
each bud, upon the stems; every bud
will then occupy two inches of the
stem, which is obstructed above and
below. In ringing remove, in the usual
way, a small ring of the bark all round
the stem. The branches, so prepared,
are then laid in the same way as the
preceding, and the plants will be fit to
separate in one year; but they will not
be so strong as those raised in the pre-
ceding manner. The Chinese are said
to practise building the rarer ones, on
the more common kinds, with great
success ; but that statement seems ra-

" Fro7n Seed. — This can only be done
to increase the single ones, as the
semi-double ones do not produce perfect
seeds, or at least very seldom. When
perfect seeds are obtained, shortly after
they are ripe, they should be sown in
pans filled with a mixture of fresh loam
and a small portion of leaf-mould and
sand, which should be placed in a cold
pit or frame, and protected from wet
until the following spring, when the

When the plants are of a sufficient 1 seeds will begin to vegetate. If the

size and strength, they may be increas-
ed in the following ways:

" By Division. — Take up one of the
largest plants about the end of October,
and after shaking all the soil from the
roots, separate each of the stems which
have got any roots attached to them
with a sharp knife ; then shorten the

seeds are not sown until the sprmg,
they seldom grow before the following
year; and frequently many of the seeds
perish before th.it time arrives.

" The seedlings must be allowed to
remain in the seed-pans the first sea-
son, and be transplanted the following
spring, either into the open border, or

top of each, and pot them in some good I singly in pots; and the time they are

rich mould, placing them afterwards in
a cold pit, where they are tolerably se-
cure from frost, and where they can be
kept dry during the winter. la the

afterwards before they flower depends
upon the treatment they receive, but
generally they require two or three
years.

P.^0

415

P MO

"From Single Eyes. — Any time when i they never flower well, as they always
the plant is in a dormant state, cut ofT| suffer from drought. But even in such
a branch ot" the two or three year old la situation they may be made to flower
wood, which has a quantity oTbuds upon ' by adding a quantity of well-rotted
it, and cut it into pieces of about two dung, and a little fresh loam, to the
inches in length, leaving a single bud [ soil.

on each piece; then pot and treat them "Planting. — In planting them in the
in the same manner as grape-vines are open border the best time is the end of
when raised from single eyes; that is, October; but they may be removed at
plant them about two inches deep in any time except when they are either
pots filled with good rich soil, and place ! in flower or showing flower; but they
them in a gentle moist heat. Plants I will be liable to lose their flower-buds
raised in this way are good but small. | if they are transplanted after they com-

" By grafting on the roots of the mence growing,
herbaceous kinds, as of P. officinalis ; | " They seldom suffer much from
but it is uncertain, and when it does ' moving if it is carefully performed in
succeed the plants are generally short- I the autumn ; for they may then be taken
lived, except when the grafted part is up from the open border, and potted

placed sufficiently under the soil,
which case it frequently emits roots
from the base of the grail, and becomes
a healthy plant supported by its own
roots.

" The operation of grafting is per-
formed in the following ways : —

" Select some good tubers of the
herbaceous pa>onies — the Chinese P.
albijlora and its varieties are the best
— any time, early in spring, before the
plant commences growing. Then cut
off a small portion of the crown, and
slit the tuber, from the top and down-
wards, sufficiently deep to admit the
scion of the moutan-pa;ony, which
must be of the last season's wood, fit-
ting the bark of both well together, as
in the ordinary way of grafting; and
bind them tightly with strong matting.
Then pot them singly in pots deep
enough to cover the graft about an inch
with soil, and place them in a cold pit
or frame kept close, and give them but
little water at first. They may also be
grafted about the end of July or begin-
ning of August, using the young wood
of the current year in the same way as
the preceding ; but when they are
grafted and potted they must be placed
in a strong moist heat, and kept close
with a bell-glass, as the wood, being
rather soft, would soon perish if placed
in a cold pit or frame.

"Soil. — It requires a strong rich
loamy soil, with plenty of moisture,
during the growing season: in swampy
situations they will soon perish if they
are in one when in a dormant state.
A deep loamy or strong soil, with a dry
subsoil, should be selected, and a light
dry sandy or poor soil avoided ; for in this

for forcing them. Forcing requires
great caution as regards the heat ap-
plied : if not done gently, and the
plants allowed to make fresh roots be-
fore they are subjected to much heat,
they will invariably lose their flower-
buds during the time of forcing; and
they must only be subjected to a mo-
derate heat at any time — sixty degrees
— as they are very apt to get drawn up
weakly.

" VVhen the forced plants have done
flowering they should be again planted
in the open border, cutting the principal
shoots back at the same time : they
will then be ready by autumn for repot-
ting, and fit for forcing again the follow-
ing spring. When potted they must be
well protected, in a cool pit, from the
frost.

'^Culture. — When planted perma-
nently in the border they should have
an open situation which is not in the
least shaded by other plants, and they
will require a little more trouble except
shortening some of the longest of the
shoots before the spring, when they
must be slightly protected to preserve
theyoungshoots from injury by the frost,
which is easily done by placing a single
mat, or canvass covering, over them, at
a sufficient distance from the plant, so
as not to hurt the young shoots by pres-
sure.

" The covering should be removed on
all fine days, but replaced during the
night. If the plants are small they may
be covered with a hand-glass during the
night ; they will then flower freely
during the early part of May, and the
colours will be more brilliant." — Card.
Ckron.

PAL

416

PAN

PALAFOXIA linearis. Green-house
herbaceous. Seed and division. Com-
mon soil.

PALICOUREA. Three species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

PALIURUS. Two species. Hardy
deciduous shrubs. Seed, root cuttings,
and layers. Common soil.

PAN^TIA fulva. Green-house an-
nual. Seed. Sandy loam.

PANCRATIUM. Twenty-nine spe-
cies and many varieties. Chiefly stove
and green-house bulbs, butP. ?7ZiyrJC«7n,
and P. maritimum are hardy. They
are propagated by offsets, and new
varieties raised from seed. They thrive
best in a compost of three-fourths sandy
loam and one-fourth leaf mould. Take
up the hardy species in autumn, sepa-
rate the offsets, and replant immediately
about four inches deep in a light, well
drained sheltered border, putting some
mulch or six inches of coal ashes over
them during the winter.

PANDAMUS. Twenty species.
Stove palms. Seed or suckers. Rich
light loam.

PANNING is forming a pan or basin
in the soil round the stem of a tree or
shrub in which to pour water.

PANSY or HEART'S EASE. Viola
tricolor.

"This is one of the English florist's
flowers, and spirited contests for prizes
are yearly witnessed — in this country
but little attention has been paid it;
though its increasing beauty by the
production of new varieties is claiming
our regard. Those of us whose idea of
a Heart's Ease is confined to the pretty
little flower of former days, have but an
imperfect conception of the size, figure
and brilliancy to which the Viola tri-
color has attained. For an interesting
article on its culture see the " London
Horticultural Magazine."

Varieties. — These are increased in
number annually, but the following are
established in public favour.

Brown's Attila.

Countess of Ork.iey.

Curion.

Cook's Attila.
Alicia.

■ Black Bess.

• Mulberry Superb.

■ Prince Albert.

• Ringleader.

• Triumph.

Davies' Miss Nugent.
Foster's Man of Kent.
King's Exquisite.

Princess Royal.

Sulphura Elegans.

Kitley's Bathonia.
Lane's Sir John Sebright.
Lidgard's Jewess.
Major's Bridegroom.

Beauty of Knosthorpe.

Princess Royal.

Maule's Princess Royal.
Pearson's Agnes.

— — — — Black Prince.

De Buch.

Magraith.

Milton.

Sobieski.

Scholfield's Surprise.
Silverlock's Prince Albert.

Prince of Wales.

Thompson's Attila.

Beauty of Bucks.

-— — ^— Coronna.

Cream.

Cyclops.

Desirable.

Duchess of Richmond.

Hamlet.

Jewess Superb.

Launcelot.

Miss Stainforth.

Nymph.

Prince Albert.

Princess Royal.

Regulator.

Raphael.

Rufus.

Ultraflora.

Venus.

Warrior.

Characteristics of Excellence. — " The

first and most essential quality is its
form, which will be found in the greatest
perfection in that flower round which if
a circle be drawn each petal will exactly
touch the circle, not projecting beyond
it, nor stopping short of it. The petals
should be large and broad, because in
that case the indentations must be shal-
low where the outline of one petal meets
another. Of a firm texture, flat, even
at the edge, and free from notches.
The eye must be clean and well defined,
the colours should be rich and vivid,
and the markings must have a clear
edge. A uniform tint as a ground
colour is much esteemed ; but the varia-
tions and combination of colour are so
numerous and beautiful, that no precise

PAN

417

PAP

rules can be formed to govern this ing up in all directions, and they will
point.'" — Gard. Chron. blossom beautifully, if the subsoil be

So27 used by the best Pansey growers congenial to them. If laid in the soil,
round Manchester, is the surface soil of cuttings of the choicest pansies may be
an old pasture and partially decomposed ' taken off at any season, even in the
cow-dung, about one part of the latter depth of winter. If it is convenient for
to two of the former. the amateur to procure them at that sea-

Bed. — This should have a southeast son, he may lay the whole cutting be-
aspect, unshaded by trees, but very neath the surface, either in coil or
sheltered Irom wind, be three feet wide, longitudinally, so that it is not buried
■with a path all round, and then, having ' above half an inch or a little more. It
dug out the soil, be made eight inches ' will spring up at most of the joints in
deep of the above compost. The edges due season vigorous and healthy." —
supported with slate. I Gard. Chron.

Propagation. — By Seed. — Sow, as | Box for exhibiting Blooms. — Dr.
soon as it is ripe, or any time in spring Lindley says, that — " the best construct-
or summer will do, in pans of the same cd box for exhibiting twenty-four Hearts-
compost plunged in an open border, ease is made of deal, of the following
In six weeks the seedlings appear, dimensions, viz., twenty inches long.
Save seed from the best shaped flowers, one wide, and five inches deep; the
impregnating these mother plants with lid was made to unhinge; a sheet of
pollen from bright-eyed flowers. Gather ! zinc was fitted inside, resting upon a
the seed pods as they ripen. i rim ; four rows of six holes each were

By Cuttings. — The best season is mid i cut in the zinc at three inches apart,
August. Take short jointed cuttings ' under each hole was a zinc tube sol-
from the approved plants, and insert dered to the plate, and intended to
their stems about two inches deep in contain the water. The apertures to
some of the compost in a north border, admit the flower should be made in the
covering with a hand-glass. They will : form of a keyhole, as it will admit part
have rooted in a month, then pot them, of the calyx and keep the flower in a
and keep in a dry situation until frost flat position, the outside may be paint-
arrives, then put them in a cold frame i ed green, but the zinc plate should be
plunged in coal ashes, covering the painted of a dead white." — Gard.
frame with a mat when frost is severe, j Chron.

and never letting the sunshine come Insects. — The worst animal foes of
upon them during frosty weather, but 1 the Pansey are the slug and the snail,
admit air freely. To destroy and keep away these ver-

Planting in Bed. — Do this early in Imin, water the bed late of an evening
April, in dry weather, placing the plants j in moist weather with lime water, and
in rows twelve inches apart each way. sprinkle the surface pretty thickly with
Shade for a few days; and if night frosts fresh wood ashes. See Agromyza.
occur shade them from the sun during ! Disease. — The Pansey is liable to
the day after. They require no after- root-rot, if the soil is not well drained,
culture but frequent hoeing ; never give If grown in light, fresh earth, in an
water even in the driest summers, but j open border, it is never subject to the
at such seasons cover the surface of the I disease. If a plant, which shows by
bed with fresh cow-dung, sprinkled its yellow hue that infection has oc-
over with earth, to keep it from being curred, be taken up, the decayed roots
unsightly. I removed, and it be transplanted into a

Winter Protection. — Mr. Mearns, of , soil and situation such as I have de-
the Manchester Zoological Gardens, scribed, it will speedily send forth fresh

recommends the Pansey grower, " in^
stead of using frames and glasses, which
are not always at hand, to trim and
clean the ground, and loosen the sur-

radicles, and recover its vigour.
PANSEY FLY. Agromyza.
PANTILES. See Bricks.
PAPAVER. Poppy. Twenty-six

face carefully, and then to cover the | species and many varieties. Hardy
whole of the plants about half an inch herbaceous and annuals. The former
deep with a good rich compost. In the j are increased by division, the latter by
spring the plants will be found perfectly i seed ; light rich loam,
protected, and every extremity spring- 1 PAPER LIGHTS were never much
27

PAP

418

PAR

employed, and, since the introduction
of Whitney's and other compositions
for rendering cloth semi-transparent,
are still less likely to be employed.
Cartridge paper is the best for the pur- ]
pose. It should be damped before it
is nailed upon the frame, because when

good crop immediately afterwards, never
fails, by speedy exhaustion, to demon-
strate how great has been the disper-
sion of carbonaceous matter.

PARIVOA grandijlora. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Rich loam.

PARK, in the modern acceptation of

dried it becomes taut. It may then be j the word, is an extensive adorned in
painted over with boiled linseed oil, in , closure surrounding the house and gar-
which a little white lead has been in- '', dens, and affording pasturage either
corporated. In nailing on the paper, I to deer or cattle. In Great Britain, a
a strip of tape should be placed between park, strictly and legally, is a large ex-
the heads of the tacks and the paper, \ tent of a man's own ground inclosed
to check the tearing to which the paper 1 and privileged for wild beasts of chase

is so subject

PAPER-MULBERRY. Broussone-
tia papyracea.

PAPYRUS. Four species. Stove
perennial aquatics. Seed and division.
Rich loam in water.

PARAGUAY TEA. Ilex paraguen-

PARASITIC PLANTS are such as
derive their nourishment from other
living plants by rooting into their sap
vessels. Examples are the Mistletoe
and Dodder, which attach themselves
to the stems and branches of some
plants ; the Hypocistus, and the Oro-
banche or Broom rape, affix themselves
to the roots of others. The minute
fungi which constitute the mildew are
also parasites. There is some doubt
whether the ivy is at all parasitical ;

by prescription or by royal grant.
(Coke's Litt. 233. a. Blackstone, 2. 38.)
The beasts of park, or chase, according
to the definition of ancient sportsmen,
were the buck, doe, fox, marten, and
roe ; but in a common and legal sense,
Coke says, beasts of park were all the
beasts of the forest. It has been de-
cided by the superior courts of law,
that to constitute a park these circum-
stances are essential : — 1. A grant from
the king, or prescription. 2. That it
be inclosed by a wall, pale, or hedge.
3. That it contain beasts of park, and
if it fail in any one of these, it is a total
disparking. [Croke Car. 59.) Of such
parks there are said to be 781 in Eng-
land. {Brooks Ahr. Action sur Stat.
48.)

PARKIA. Two species. Stove

but whether it derives nourishment or | evergreen trees. Cuttings. Peat and

not from trees, it certainly checks the
respiration, and prevents the free ac-
cess of light and air to those upon
which it attaches. The orchidaceous
plants, which grow upon dead wood
as readily as upon living timber, are
not parasites.

PARASTRANTHUS. Three spe-
cies. Hardy herbaceous. Division.
Sandy loam and peat.

PARDANTHUS. Two species.
Hardy herbaceous. Seed and division.
Light rich sheltered border.

PARINARIUM. Three species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

PARING and BURNING is never to
be practised by the gardener, except
for the purpose of charring the turf and
rendering porous the soil cut from the
banks of clayey ditches. When this is
carefully done, a serviceable dressing
is obtained. But paring and burning,
as a general practice, is extremely
wasteful; and though it may give a

loam.

PARKINSONIA aculeata. Stove
evergreen shrub. Imported seed and
cuttings. Peat and loam.

PARNASSIA. Five species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division and seed. Shaded
moist peat.

PAROCHETUS communis. Half-
hardy evergreen creeper. Division.
Light rich loam.

PARONYCHIA. Fourteen species.
Chiefly hardy perennials and annuals.
P. canariensis is a green-house her-
baceous, and a few others are half-
hardy. Seed and division. Sandy
loam.

PARRY A arctica, a hardy annual.
P. integerrima, a hardy perennial
trailer. The first increased by seed,
the latter by cuttings. Loam and peat.

PARSLEY. Petroselinurn sativum.

Varieties, — There are two varieties,
the common plain leaved and the curly
leaved.

Time and Mode of Sowing. — It is

PAR

419

PAR

sown annually, but if it is never per- 1 Time and Mode of Sowing. — Sow at
mitted to run to seed, the stalks being ! monthly intervals from February until
cut down as often as they rise, it will ! the middle of June. Sow thinly in drills
last for several years. It may be sown ' nine inches apart. The plants appear
from the close of February until the in about a month after sowin", and
middle of June, and this is repeated when of tolerable growth, require to be
about the middle of September, for thinned to nine inches asunder, and
the supply of winter and spring; but cleared from weeds, either by hand or
this is unnecessary if the plants are the hoe ; which latter operation, being
not allowed to seed. The seed is to performed as often as weeds appear, ia
be inserted moderately thick, in narrow the only cultivation required. Hy the
drills barely an inch deep, twelve inches I end of July, or during August, the
apart if in a bed by itself, or in a single ' earliest sowings will have acquired a
one round the edge of a bed ; the mould sufficient size for occasional use; but
being raked level, and the stones im- j the roots seldom attain their full growth

mediately over the seed gathered off.
The plants make their appearance in
from two to six weeks. When two or
three inches high, they may be gathered
from as required. In early June, when
they make a show for seed, the stems
should be cut down close to the bottom,
and again in September, if they have
acquired a straggling rank growth ; this
cause them to shoot afresh, and

until Michaelmas; and the latest crops
not until the following year. On the
arrival of frost, some of them must be
taken up; and after the removal of the
superfluous fibres, decayed leaves, &c.,
buried in sand, in a dry situation under
cover.

To save Sefd. — Some plants must be
left where grown, and allowed to run
in May. Their produce will ripen in

acquire a strong growth before the j July or August, when it must be cut.

arrival of severe weather. On the ap-
proach of frost, if protection is atlorded
to the plants by means of haulm or reed
panels, so supported as not to touch
them ; it will preserve them in a much
better state for use in winter and spring

dried, beat out, and stored.

PARSLEY-PIKRT. Erica aphanes.

PARSNIP. Pastinaca sativa.

Soil and Situation. — The soil in
which the parsnip succeeds best, is a
rich dry sandy loam, and the deepe

But a still more effectual plan is to take the better. The most inimical to it is
up some of the strongest and best curled ! gravel or clay. It is always beiieficiaL
plants in September, and to plant them { to trench the ground two spades deep,
in pots, two or three plants in each, j a little manure being turned in with the
using a rich soil. If these be placed in j bottom spit.

a forcing house and abundance of li()uid I In the isle of Guernsey, which has
manure given, they will be very siipe- I long been celebrated for the fineness of
riorly productive throughout the winter, its parsnips, sea-weed is the manure
To obtain Seed. — Nothing more is chiefly employed.

necessary than to allow some of the
plants to run up in June; they should
not, however, be allowed to stand
nearer than eighteen inches to each
other. The seed ripens in early autumn,
and when perfectly dry, may be beaten

Of excrementitious manure that of
pigeons is the best. Decayed leaves
are also very favourable to its growth.
The situation cannot be too open.

Time and Mode of Sowing. — The
usual time for sowing is fi-om the end

out and stored. Soot is an excellent of February to the beginning of April,

manure for parsley, and preserves it
from root-canker, the only disease af-
fecting it.

PARSLEY (Hamburgh). Petroseli-
num sativum, var. latifolium.

Use. — This esculent is known by the

but the earlier the better. It has heen
recommended in field cultivation to
sow them in September ; in the garden,
when sown at this season, they also
attain a finer size, but many of them
run to seed. In the isle of Guernsey

name broad-leaved and /arg-e-roo<ei ' they regulate their time of sowing, ac^
Parsley. It is cultivated for its root, ! cording to the soil ; in the most favour-
which attains the size of a middling ; able soils they sow in January, or if the
parsnip, boiling exceedingly tender and ! soil is wet or stiff, they do not insert
palatable. It is eaten both as a sauce ! the seed until the latter end of March.

to flesh meat, and in soups, &c.

Sow in drills ten inches apart, and

PAR

420

-♦

PAS

one inch deep : the compartment being ' fast as they are produced. This makes
la.dout in be^d not more^han four feet, the plant stool, for whatever prevents
>^ide,for the convenience of weeding, the formaUon of seed, promotes the
Rt^ VVhpn the seedlings are two or development ot root. , , u

fhr'ee Ses 1 ,gh remov^e to ten inches PASCALIA glauca Half hardy herb-
aparl and the te'eds both by hand and -^s. Cuttings^ Loam an^et^^
small hoeing. The beds require to he PASQUL-FLOWLR. Anemone puc
frequently looked over, to remove all | satilla .^^ P,ower.

it impracticable.

Select Species and Varieties .—

impraclicaoie. ,

The roots may be taken up as wanted | hardy ok half-hardy, according to

in September, but they do not attain
maturity till October, which is intimated
by the decay of the leaves

LATITUDE AND SOIL.

P.carulea. Common Blue Passiflora.
Five slightly differing varieties, the best

by the decay oi uie icdvco. Five slightly dinenng vaneucB, i-i'^ '■■■=••

■ In November, part of the crop may ^^ ^^j^j^^ ^^^ p Colvillii and P. glauco-
be taken up, and the tops being cutl ,^^^_ AH require the protection ot a
close off, layed in alternate layers with ^ ,.
sand, for use in frosty weather. The
remainder may be left in the ground.

phyllo
wall.

GREEN-HOUSE.

P. incarnata. Flesh-coloured Passi-
flora. This, in well drained borders,
will endure our winters against a south
wall. P. Fieldii is a variety of this.

P. chinensis. Chinese Passiflora.

STOVE.

P. alata. Winged Passiflora. Pur-
ple, white, and crimson.

P. alata-carulea, Hybrid-winged Pas-
siflora. Black, blue, and white.

P. actinia. Sea Anemone Passiflora.
White, fragrant.

P. kcrmesina. Crimson Passiflora.

P. Loudoni. Loudon's Passiflora,

purple.

P. Middletonia. Middleton's Passi-
flora. Green and pink, fragrant. Some-
times called P. fragrans.

P. Phanicea. Phcenician Passiflora.
Crimson, purple, and white. P. elegans
is a variety of this.

EDIBLE FRUITED PASSIFLORAS.

1 P. edulis. Purple-fruited Granadilla.
1 White. Green-house.

P. laurifolia. Laurel-leafed Grana-
! dilla, or Water Lemon. Red and violet
' flowers. Fruit, yellow. Stove.

P.maliformis. Apple-fruited Grana-
dilla, or Sweet Calabash. Flowers
white, blue, and red. Fruit, dull yel-
low.

P. quadrangular is. Common Grana-
dilla. Flowers, red, white, and violet.
P.Buonapartea

and taken up as required, as they are
never injured by the most intense frost,
but, on the contrary, are rendered
sweeter. In February or March, how-
ever, any remaining must be extracted,
otherwise they will vegetate. Being
preserved in sand, they continue good
until the end of April or May.

To obtain Seed. — Some of the finest
roots are best allowed to remain where
grown ; or else, being taken up early
in spring, planted in a situation open,
but sheftered from violent winds. If of
necessity some of those are employed
which have been preserved in sand,
such should be selected as have not had
their tops cut off very close.

They must be kept clear of weeds,
and in dry weather watered plentifully
twice a week. At midsummer the seed
is usually ripe ; the umbels may then be
cut, and when thoroughly dried on
cloths, the seed beaten out and stored.
Seed should never be employed that
is more than a twelvemonth old, as it
has generally lost its vegetative power
■when of a greater age.

PARSONIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Cuttings, Loam
and peat.

PARTERRE, a French word pro-
nounced with the final e silent, is syno-
nymous with our English name Flower

Garden. „r' Fruit, greenish yellow

PARTING the roots is a mode ^^^ [/"''^^^.ety o,-/his
propagation available with some plants, '^ ^ '"'"^'^ "^iBi f
and where a large increase ol an indi-j

vidual specimen by this mode is desired. All the stove p -

Us flower stems should be removed as i in a day temperature of 70 , «ith a

EDIBLE FRUITED.

All the stove passion flowers thrive

PAS

421

P AU

night temperature of 50°. Mr. Jones, lowed to remain they will be small and
of the Kew Gardens, has given the foi- of little value.

lowing directions, especially, for the i " The fruit-bearing branches mav be
cultivation of P. quadrangularis ; but stopped at the distance of five or six
they apply equally well to the other j feet above the fruit,
species. " Treated in this way P. quadrangu-

" It may be grown in the stove, or /ar/s will frequently produce fruit 4 lbs.
better perhaps in an intermediate in weight; and though not ranking as
house, between the stove and green- i a first-class fruit, it makes a rather
house. It is necessary to the perfect novel as well as a useful addition to
cultivation of the plant that it should the desert, at which the pulp is eaten
grow in a border in the inside of the | with sugar and wine. None of the
house, rather than in pots, however other species of Pass/flora bear such
large. If no other situation presents large fruit as quadrnngitlnr-is. Of
itself, a border may be made beneath others, edulis and hiurifolia are
the path, taking care to leave a space amongst the best. Unlike quadrangu-
of three or four inches between the laris, the branches of these smaller-
surface of the soil and the stones, so fruited species must not be stopped,
that there may be a free access of air, and they will continue to flower and
and that water may spread equally fruit for several months in a stove,
over the surface of the soil, and moist- The fruit is eaten with the same ingre-
en it thoroughly. Whatever may be dients as the largest kind, and has a

flavour agreeable to most palates." —
Gard. Chron.

PASSION-FLOWER. Passiflora.

PASTINACA. The only cultivated
species is the Parsnip, which see.

PATAGONULA Americana. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and

the situation of the plant, let the drain-
age be as efficient as possible.

" As the plant may have to remain
some years in one situation, five or six
barrowfuls, or even more, of good soil,
composed of three-fourths rich loam,!
and the rest leaf mould, should be pre-
pared in a very rough state, and in this peat,
plant it. A spare rafter, or any such i PATERSONIA, Nine species.^
place near the glass, will do exceed- ' Green-house herbaceous. Division and
ingly well for the plants to be attached seed. Sand and peat,
to. If young when turned out, they ■ PATlilNIA. Four species. Hardy
should not be allowed to bear flowers or biennials. Seed. Light rich loam,
fruit the first year. | PAULLINIA. Sixteen species. —

" One or at most two branches should , Stove evergreen twiners. Ripe cut-
be allowed to grow, and after they have tings. Light rich loam,
extended ten or fifteen feet, they should PAULOUNIA iinperial is, is a hardy
be stopped, and should not be allowed tree, though, until its habits are better
to put forth any laterals. I tested, it is advisable to plant it in a

" During winter no water to be given sheltered situation. Mr. G. Bishop,
unless' the plants droop. Some time in gardener at the Chiswick Gardens,
February the branches must be well cut states that — " It may be propagated by
back ; and if necessary to leave any cuttings, particularly if the young
length of stem between the ground and shoots are selected when they have
the glass, all the buds, excepting three advanced to about three or four inches
or four at the top of each branch, must in length; also by eyes, in the same
be rubbed off. { manner as the vine; as well as by di-

" The number of branches allowed visions of the roots, the smallest par-
to grow in the second year, must be tide of them generating adventitious
determined by the strength of the buds. The best time to propagate it is
plant, from two to six being the usual when the plants commence their spring
number. growth. Uoth eyes and roots should

"Advantage should be taken of the be potted in soil consisting of leaf
first flowers that open to fertilize the mould, peat, and sand, in equal pro-
stigma, fot fructification will not always > portions, and the pots containing them
take place naturally. From one to plunged in a dung-bed. Any other
three fruit are suflicient on each | fermenting material would answer the
branch; if a greater number are al- ! same purpose, where the atmospheric

P AV

422

PEA

temperature averages from 75° to 80°.
Divisions of the root in particular will
emit shoots at the expiration of three
■weeks at the farthest.'" — Gard. Chron.
For a drawing and interesting article

thoroughly decomposed, excluding all
that possesses the least fermentation.

" It has been found that frequent
sowings of peas in the same ground is
injurious; the plants not unusually

on this recently introduced tree, see turn yellow, and partially die before

the " Horticulturist.''''

PAVETTA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

PAVIA. Seven species. Hardy
deciduous trees and shrubs. Layers
and grafting on horse-chestnut. Com-
mon soil.

PAXTOMA rosea. Stove orchid.
Division. Very turfy loam, leaf-mould,
and sand.

PEA. Pisum sativum.

" The Pea is a hardy annual, a
native of the south of Europe, and cul-
tivated from time immemorial.

<' There is an immense variety, from

perfecting fruit. This remark is par-
ticularly applicable to the early kinds.

" The first crops should be sown in
the spring, so soon as the ground will
admit of being worked, choosing the
driest soil, and such as lays well ex-
posed to the sun.

" To have a constant succession, a
few should be planted every fortnight
or oftener. At the time the hist sowing
of early ones is made, sow also some
of the later varieties, which will come
in as the early ones go out of bearing.

" The usual method of cultivation, is
to sow the seed in drills, as directed
for the Kidney Beans, only thicker in

which the following have been selected j the drills. As the plants rise from half

as among the best, and more than suf-
ficient for any garden ; some inferior
kinds are still cultivated, apparently
from want of knowledge.

" Landreth's Extra Early ; this has
been introduced more than twenty

inch high to two or three inches,
begin to draw earth to the stems, doing
this when the ground is in a dry state,
and earthing gradually higher, as the
stems ascend; at the same time loosen
the ground between the young plants,

years, and to the present maintains its and cut down rising weeds. Stick the
superiority over all others, as an early plants when six to twelve inches high,
variety; it is unquestionably the ear- 1 as soon as they begin to vine. The
liest, and a general favourite. i early varieties require sticks or rods

" The Early Frame succeeds Lan- two to three feet high ; the Imperial
dreth's Extra Early, and is followed by and Royal Dwarf Marrowfat two feet,
the Early Charlton, or Golden Hotspur, Large Marrowfat five feet." — Rur. Reg.
as it is likewise called. | ToforcePeas: — Forcing- commences

" The Large White Marrow, Peru-, in December, in the early part of which
vian Black Eye do.. Royal Dwarf do., | month they may be sown in a hot-bed
and Blue Imperial, ripen nearly to- |to remain, or thick to transplant, during
gether; each has its admirers. The the succeeding month, into others for
imperial is quite dwarf and may do with- production. These may be repeated in
out rods ; many prefer it to all others. ^ January, and the transplanting takes

"The Blue Prussian is an old sort, place in February. It is also a common
generally liked, and a good bearer. practice to sow in a warm border dur-

" Bishop's Early Dwarf continues ing October, and the plants being cul-
longer than most others in bearing, tivated as a natural ground crop, are
and its habit being so dwarf, as not lo removed into a hot-bed in a succeeding
require rods, is well suited to many month,
gardens. ! The hot-bed must be moderate, and

" Sugar or Eat Pods, generally boiled earthed equally over to a depth of six
both pod and peas, and eaten in the or eight inches, with light fresh mould

manner of Kidney Beans

" The Pea thrives best in a rich
loamy soil, but will, with proper care,
produce tolerable crops in almost any.

not particularly rich. The seed must
be buried one inch and a half deep.
The frame, which is required to be two
feet and a half high behind, ai)d one

The early varieties require stronger j and a half in front, ought tc^be put on
ground than the Marrowfats and Im- three or four days before the crop is
perial, but in manuring for them, ob- inserted, that the steam and heat may
serve to use none but such as is , abate. Seed may likewise be sown at

PEA

423

PEA

the above times in pots or pans, and
placed round the binsoftlie stove. At
the close of September also, some peas
may be sown in pots and sunk in the
earth of any open compartment ; when
the frost commences, to be removed
into the green-house. A border of fresh
earth bein^ made in the front of it early
in December, the plants are removed
into it, in rows two feet asunder, or still
better in pairs, with ten inches interval,
and two feet and a half between each
pair. These will come into production
about the middle of March.

In every instance, as stated above,
the rows should be two feet, the seed
or plants being set an inch asunder.
The plants are ready for moving when
an inch or two high. They must be
shaded and gently watered until Ihey
have taken root. As much earth should
be preserved about their roots at the
time of removal as possible.

Transplanted peas are most produc-
tive, and run the least to straw in the
forcing frames. Air must be admitted
as freely as possible under contingent
circumstances, the same precautions
being necessary as for cucumbers.
^Vater must be given at lirst sparingly,
otherwise decay or super-luxuriance
will be occasioned; but when they are
in blossom, and during the succeeding
stages of growth, it may be applied of-
tener and more abundantly, as it is ne-
cessary for the setting and swelling ol'
the fruit.

The shading during hot days, and
covering at night, must also be particu-
larly attended to. From three to five
months elapse between the times of
sowing and production, according to the
fineness of the season, length of the
days, &c.

The temperature may be uniformly

kept up throughout their growth, hav'

ing 50" for the minimum, and 70^ for j safely relied upon

the maximum. i

In Pots. — Mr. N. Wilson, gardener,
of Gopsall, cultivates them in this man-
ner : —

" The peas are to be ready for trans-
planting by the 1st of February, so that
the same sowing does for the first out
of doors, as well as for those. The
seedlings are removed from the boxes
or pots, where they have been thickly
sown, when about four inches in height,
and are planted thinly into large pots
(twelves) which have been filled with
good soil, not too rich. They are
staked with moderately strong willows,
and run round at distances of six inches
with small twine, which has a neater
appearance and does not shade so much
a's common pea sticks. The situation
quite suitable is the back walls of the
late vineries.

" The pots so filled and staked, are
placed on the top of the back flues, ele-
vated to the glass as near as the stakes
will permit, where they are to remain
till the crop is gathered, which will be
from the 1st to the loth of May. The
peas are kept from the frost and severe
weather, and have always plenty of air,
when the weather is fine.

" They are watered rather sparingly
at first, but plentifully as they advance
into bloom. Peas in pits and frames
will not bear forcing till they are out of
bloom, and the pod set, then they will
bear it, and be forwarded admirably.
They cannot be had in the autumn on
the same principle after the 20th of
November." — Caid. Chron.

PEACH. Persica vulgaris.

Varieties. — D. Landreth and Fulton
ofl'er the following among others as de-
sirable varieties. The vicinity of Phi-
ladelphia is famous for the extent of its
Peach orchards, and the abundance and
excellence of tlie fruit. What is there
considered worthy of culture may be

PEA

424

PEA

Explanation of Abbreviations. — Colour — y yellow ; r red j w white. Size
— L large; m medium.

Those marked *

are cling

'StC

nei

•.

name. colouh.

1

N
L

>

H

.J

cs-
2

season.

*Algiers Winter ....

y

October

Alberge — Yellow Rare Ripe

y r

L

1

August

*Biood Peach

r

L

2

September

Columbia

y

L

September

Darby Belle .

y

L

September

Early York .

r

M

August

Early Red, Cole's .

' y

L

August

Eastburn's Choice .

r

L

September

Freestone Heath .

y

L

September

Early Malacoton, Crawford-s

y r

L

September

Grosse Mignonne .

y r

L

August

*Lemon Clingstone

y >•

L

September

*Late Heath .

w

L

September

Late Yellow, Pool's

y r

L

September

Large Early Rare Ripe

y r

L

August

Morris' Red .

r

M

September

Morris' White

w

M

September

Nutmeg, White

w

M

August

Oldmixon Freestone

y

L

September

*01dmixon Clingstone .

r

L

September

President

y r

L

September

Red Rare Ripe

r

L

September

Red Cheek Malacoton .

y '

L

September

*Rodman's Cling .

w

L

September

Smock's Freestone

y r

L

September

*Smock's Cling

y

L

September

*Tippecanoe .

y r

L

September

Washington .

w

L

September

Ward's Late .

w

L

September

The culture of the Peach is in this
country so simple, and generally un-
derstood, that it would seem scarcely
necessary to occupy space with direc-
tions on that subject.

The following remarks are from a
paper by Dr. Thompson of Wilmington,
Delaware, published in the Farmer's
Cabinet of Philadelphia, and may excite
surprise in some quarters by its details
of the extent to which the Peach trade
has arrived.

"To Mr. Isaac Reeves, a native of
New Jersey, is tlie whole credit due of
first introducing on a large scale the
culture of the inoculated peach tree
into Delaware. The late Mr, Jacob
Ridtjway, of Philadelphia, owning a
farm near Delaware City, on the Chesa-
peake and Delaware canal, was induced
by Mr. Reeves to become his partner,
and upon this property, in the spring of

1S32, they set out the first twenty acres
of inoculated peach trees ever planted
in this State, with the view of supplying
the Philadelphia market. They rapidly
extended their plantation to about one
hundred and twenty acres, were emi-
nently successful, and one year — the
very best season they ever had — their
gross income from the sales of fruit was
some sixteen thousand dollars. Peaches
then commanded from one dollar twen-
ty-five cents to three dollars per basket,
containing about three pecks. In the
spring of IS36, the late Mr. Manuel
Eyre and myself followed suit upon our
' Union Farm,' midway between Wil-
mington and Newcastle on the Delaware
river, to about the extent of one hun-
dred and forty acres. In a year or two
afterwards, Mr. Philip Reybold & Sons
went into the business — then a host of
others, until now, from twenty-five

PEA

425,

PEA

hundred to three thousand acres of
land, in Newcastle county, are planted
with, and successfully cultivated in
peaches, making Delaware, though the
smallest of the States, the largest pro-
ducer of this fruit. The result has been
a proportionate diminution of price, the
average, per basket, one season with

rearing of them constitutes a distinct
business of itself. They are produced
by planting out the peach stones, or
pits, in the spring, which have been
slightly covered with earth in the fall,
so as to be exposed to the action of the
winter's frost. The sooner the pits arc
put in the sand or earth after the fruit

another, not exceeding from thirty to is matured, the better — they should
sixty cents. In this way Delaware has ! never become dry. The shoots from
become the principal supplier of the j these stones are budded in August of
Baltimore, Philadelphia, New York, and the same year, from four to six inches
North River markets, and many of our from the ground. The ensuing spring
fine peaches now reach even Boston, all the first year's growth is cut off
The whole annual income from this above where the scion has taken — not,
branch of business to the farmers of this { however, until it is well developed —

county may be estimated from one to
two hundred thousand dollars. For so
handsome an additional product, the
agriculturists of Delaware, as well as
the consumers of peaches in our vicini-
ty, owe a debt of gratitude to the ori-
ginator of the culture, whom as one, I
should gladly unite in presenting with
some valued and lasting memento in
recognition of his merit for giving a neiv
staple to a State ; for who is a greater
benefactor to mankind and the age he
lives in, than he who brings into opera-
tion a new branch of business, giving
by his enterprise and perseverance an
impetus to agriculture ; causing the
earth to give forth its increase, and so
multiplies its fruits as to bring them
within the reach and enjoyment of all ?
The great improvement made in peach-
es within the last few years in New
Jersey and Delaware, consists in propa-
gating none but the finest kinds, by

when, in the fall and following spring,
they are ready for transplanting or sale.
The mode of preparing the ground for
them is precisely that with us of the
Indian corn crop — the earth is well
ploughed, and from thirty to forty
bushels of lime are spread upon it to
the acre. The trees of like kinds, for
the convenience of picking, are then
set out in rows at distances varying from
twenty to thirty feet apart, according to
the strength of the soil ; a crop of corn
is then put in and cultivated in the usual
way, and this is done successively for
three years; by this time the trees be-
gin to bear. Tlie cultivation of the corn
being the proper tillage for the trees,
and this crop amply paying for all in-
vestment in trees, &c. After the trees
commence bearing, no other crop ot
any kind should ever be grown among
them, as I have known two rows of
potatoes between a row of peach trees

budding and grafting, so as to have the not only to affect the fruit, but seriously
fruit as early and as late as our latitude . to injure the trees ; but they should be
will admit ; the earliest ripening with us ; regularly ploughed some three or four

times in the season, just as if the corn
crop was continued. So obnoxious in

from the first week in August, such as

Troth's Early, Early York and Early

Ann, and ending in the latter part of our" country is the peach tree to the

October with Ward's Late Free, the

Heath, Algiers' Winter, &c. I need

not enumerate all the different varieties

worm, or borer — the tegeria exitiosa —
that each tree in the orchard should be
examined twice a year, summer and

used and planted out to keep up this : fall — say in June and October — by re^
succession — some of the principal are moving the earth down to the roots, and
in the order of enumeration. Troth's killing with a pruning-knife every in-
Early, Early York, Early Ann, Yellow \ truder — then scraping the injured bark
Rareripe, Red Rareripe, Malacatoon, ' and removing the glue. Thus exposed,
Morris' White, Old Mixon, Rodman, ! they should be left for a few days, when
Ward's Late Free, Maiden, Free ; the earth should again be replaced with
Smock, Late Rareripe, Heath, Algiers' a hoe. The limbs should be only mo-
Winter, &c. These trees are generally derately pruned or thinned out, so as to
obtained for about six dollars per hun- admit the sun and air, avoiding in the
dred, from approved nurserymen in [ operation leaving forks, which incline
Delaware and New Jersey, and the I them to split when burthened with fruit.

PEA

426

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When the peaches ripen, they should | great and prevailing disposition of the
be carefully picked from step-ladders, peach tree in our climate is to over pro-
seven to eight feet high, into small liiuid- t duction of fruit in favourable seasons,
baskets, holding one peck each. Our , Our remedy for this is carefully to thin
operators for this purpose are both men it off by plucking all those that touch,

and women, who earn from fifty to
seventy-five cents a day, besides being
found. These baskets are gently emp-
tied into the regular market baskets,
which are all marked with the owner's
name and strewed along the whole line
of orchard to be picked. As these are

or are within two or three inches of
each other, when the size of hickory
nuts, which are thrown into some run-
ning stream or into the hog-pens to be
devoured. This mode ' of heading in,'
or pruning one half of the producing
buds, is new to me, but which I have

filled they are put into spring wagons, just tried upon my garden trees in the

holding from thirty to sixty baskets, and
taken to the wharf, or landing, where
there is a house, shed or awning, for
the purpose of assorting them, each
kind by itself, which is into prime and
cuUings — the prime being distinguished
rot only by their size and selection.

city, and will be able to speak of expe-
rimentally, hereafter. With us in Dela-
ware, as everywhere else, the peach
tree succeeds best in a good soil. That
preferred is a rich sandy loam, with
clay. Many of my finest trees and
choicest fruits are grown in a loose and

but also by a handful of peach leaves | stony soil. The trees should never be
scattered through the top. They are , set out in wet, low, or springy situa-
then put on board the boats in tiers, tions, and for the same reasons, high
separated by boards between, to keep and rolling ground shdtild be selected
them from injury, and so reach their! for your plantations, and for the addi
destined market. We consider a water
communication from the orchards, or
as near as may be, most essential, as all
land carriage more or less bruises or
destroys the fruit. Our roads through
the orchards and to the landings are
all kept ploughed and harrowed down
smooth and even. The baskets for
marketing the peaches are generally
obtained in New Jersey at twenty-five
to thirty-seven dollars and fifty cents
per hundred. With trifling modifica-
tions our culture and practice may be

tional circumstance that they are less
obnoxious to early frosts."

Wall- Culture. English Method. —
Borders should never be deeper than
eighteen or twenty inches for the peach,
and six feet wide. Soil chopped turfy
loam from a rich pasture, rather more
clayey than light — beneath a good
drainage, at least one foot deep, made
of broken bricks and stones, with an
outfill into a neighbouring ditch.

Planting. — Two year old plants are
to be preferred, and planted as soon as

made to suit not only the Southern but I the leaves begin to fall at the end of
the South- Western Stales. I may here, ; October. The best aspects are south

perhaps, properly remark, that the ave-
rage life of our trees is from nine to
twelve years, when properly cared for
and protected as I have described ; that
the two great and devastating enemies
the trees have to contend against are
the peach worm and the yellows ; the

and south-east. Plant, at the least, six-
teen feet apart ; the stem three inches
from the wall, inclining towards it.
Nail the branches to the wall, but do
not prune them.

Summer Pruning is of far more im-
portance than that of the winter.

first readily yielding to the knife and i " In May and June, and occasionally
the treatment of semi-annual examina- ; in the succeeding months, it is necessa-
tion ; the latter being a constitutional, ry to regulate the shoots of the same
consumptive, or marasmatic disease, for ; year, and to prevent improper growths
which no other remedy is as yet known j by disbudding. Pinch off fore right
or to be practiced but extirpation and buds or shoots; and pinch off or cut
destruction. There are many ^/leories i out ill-placed, very weakly, spongy, and
and some practice recorded on this, by deformed shoots, retaining a plentiful

far the most destructive enemy of the
peach tree. I may hereafter give my
own views on this particular and ob-
scure disease. I concur, however, with
Mr. Downing, of Newburg, that the

supply of good lateral shoots in all parts
of the tree, and leaving a leader to each
branch.

" Let them mostly be trained in at
full length, all summer, about three

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427

PEA

inches asunder, for next year's bearers ;
and divest them of nny lateral twigs to
prevent a thicket-like intricacy, and to
promote a healthy fruitful growth in
the shoots themselves. In the course
of the summer regulation, if any partial
vacancy occurs, or should a young tree
under training want an additional sup-
ply of wood, shorten some convenient-
ly placed strong shoot, in June, to a
few eyes to furnish a supply of laterals
the same season." — Ahercromhie.

Thisdishiidding and regulation shoi-ild
be done by degrees. If many shoots
and leaves are removed suddenly, it
occasions gumming, and over-luxuri-
ance in the shoots that remain. If
shoots are very strong, train them as
nearly perpendicular as is admissible,
that there may be no check to the sap's
return. Shoots less robust train hori-
zontally.

Protect from frosts whilst in blos-
som ; and, when the fruit is well set,
syringe three times a week with water
to which half a pint of ammoniacal li-
quor, from gas-works, has been added
to each gallon. This will destroy all
insects, and especially the aphis, and
prevent the occurrence of mildew.

" Winter Pruning may be performed
at the fall of the leaf, and thence, ac-
cording to some professional waiters,
atany tit'ie in mild weather until spring.
It should be completed in February or
early in March, before the blossom-
buds are considerably advanced, which
are distinguishable by being round,
plump, and prominent, while the leaf
and shoot-buds are oblong and narrow.
Retain, in all parts of the tree, a com-
petent supply of such regular grown
shoots of last year as are apparently

quite close the redundant, irregular,
and other improper shoots: remove or
reduce some parts of the former bearers
of the two preceding years, cutting the
most naked quite away, and others
down to the most eligible young branch
or well-placed shoot. Also take out
all diseased and dead wood, retaining
young where necessary to fill a vacui-
ty."— Ahercromhie.

The most systematic mode of pre-
serving a constant supply of young
wood is that proposed by ^Ir. Seymour,
and described as follows in the Gar-
dener'>s Magazine : —

"A maiden plant must be cut down
to three eyes, a, and three shoots being
produced, the two lower ones are left
at full length, and the succeeding spring
the centre shoot is again cut down to
three eyes. At the time of disbudding
the trees all the buds on the lower side
of the two horizontal branches are rub-
bed off, and buds are left on the upper
side of the b>-anches at a distance of
from nine to twelve inches from each
other. These are suffered to grow five
or six inches, and are then stopped ;
but still suffering the leading shoot to
extend itself. At the second spring
pruning, the centre shoot is again cut
to three eyes ; or, if the tree be very
vigorous, five eyes may be left, two lor
each side, and a centre one for again
furnishing leading shoots. The leading
shoots are laid in the fan form, nine
or ten inches from each other. The
shoots on the leading branch are nailed
to the wall in summer; but after the
winter's pruning they are tied to the
leading shoots to be nailed in, where
they get well ripened, and mature their
buds for anotlier crop. At the winter's

fruitful in blossom-buds. Most part pruning they are cut to three or four

of these should be shortened, not in
discriminately, but according to their
strength and situation ; the very strong
shoots should be left longer, being
topped about one-fourth or one-third.
Shoots of middling vigour reduce one-
third or one-half; and prune the very
weak to two or three buds. Always
cut at a shoot-bud to advance for a
leader. Sometimes a shoot-bud lies
between a twin blossom-bud ; cut half
an inch above the bud. As many new
shoots as will lie from three to six
inches asunder may be deemed a com-
petent supply : remove or reduce some

inches, according to their strength.
The maiden plant, being headed down
the first winter, will present two late-
rals, 6. The second year, at the end of

Fig. 106.

summer, there will be four side-shoots,

part of the former bearers. Cut out and six or more laterals, c. In the fol-

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428

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lowing spring pruning, the laterals, rf, each side shoot; the first about three

which had been nailed to the wall, are inches from the stem, as the bud may

loosened and tied to their main shoot, suit, and the other at the end of the

e, and the upright shoot shortened to shortened shoots, so as to double the

three buds, as before. leading shoots. The upright shoot is

" At the end of the third summer the always cut at three of the lowest and

laterals will be doubled on the old wood most suitable buds, so that the stem may

by one having sprung from the base of be kept as short as possible ; for, unless

the shoot tied in, g, and another from the side shoots are multiplied, the stem

its extremity, /i. lu the pruning of the gets too high. If the side shoots are

p. .„_ strong the year after cutting down, they

^^ ; may be laid in their whole length ; but

[if weak, they must be cut short to give

[ them strength. Continue in this way to

double the side shoots for two or three

years, by which the tree will get

strength, and then it will admit of the

side shoot being shortened to about

fourteen inches. Cut for two or three

I years, so as to produce three shoots

upon each side shoot, and so continue

- „ . . ..1.1 /• . ' until there is a sufficient number of

followmg spring the laterals of two ^^^^. ^^^^,^ ^^ j-^^^j^,, ^^^^ ^^^ji_

years' growth, which had borne fruit, . ,, ,J.^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ j„j„ ^ ^^^^^

are cut off close, and the young laterals ; ^^j cut the lateral shoots to about

which had sprung from their base, f,
are loosened from the wall, and tied

Fig. K

eight or nine inches, taking care to cut
at a wood-bud ; and at the time of dis-
budding leave the best situated buds,
and those nearest the base, for the
future year's bearing." — Gard. Mag.

Thinning. — Let there be a space of
nine inches between every brace of
fruit upon the weaker shoots, and sis
inches on the stronger. See Thinning.
Blistering of the Leaf. — This disease,
which is called by some gardeners the
Bladder Blight, and by the French la
down to succeed them ; the other late- cloque, is occasioned by more moisture
rals, fc, are tied in, and the uprightshoot being forced into the leaves from the

shortened, /, as before.

! roots than they can evacuate by expira-

Now, or before, the side shoots will tion. Some gardeners, annotating upon
have to be headed down once or even this opinion, expressed by the present
twice, so as to increase their number, writer in the Gardener's Chronicle in
and regularly cover the wall. The es-; June, 1845, have concluded, because
tent to which this practice is carried the blistering appears more abundantly
will depend on the height of the wall, when cold nights succeed to hot days,
and the distance of the trees from each that they occasion the disorder; but
other ; the ultimate object being to pro- they are only the proximate cause;
ducea fan form, as regular as possible, those cold nights reduce the expiratory
of permanent wood, with no young power of the leaves, whilst the roots in
wood thereon, besides what is produced a soil of unreduced temperature con-
along the spokes of the fan, on their ' tinue to imbibe moisture, and to propel
upper side, at about twelve inches I it to the leaves with undiminished force,
apart, and the prolongation of the '. The blistering is, consequently, more
Bhoots. extensive. That the force with which

" In the course of the winter or spring the sap is propelled, is quite sufficient
of the third year, I shorten the side to rupture the vessels in the parenchyma
shoots to about ten or twelve inches, as of the leaf, is evident from Dr. Hale's
may be most convenient for wood-buds, experiment. He found the vine pro-
to get two principal leading shoots from i pelled its sap with a force equal to a

PEA

429

PEA

column of mercury fifteen inches high.
There is no doubt upon my mind, that
if the soil be well drained, and not too
fertile, blistering will never occur. The
remedy, therefore, is obvious in eitlier
case.

Diseases. — See Aphis, Chermes, Honey
Dew, Mildew, Exlravasated Sap.

Forcing. Any of the early varieties
are suitable for this purpose ; success
does not depend so much on the kind,
as on the manacement.

Form of House. — The best form for a
Peach-house, is that thus described by
the late T. E. Knight, Esq.

As the lights to be moved to the re-
quired extent with facility must neces-
sarily be short, the back wall of the
house must scarcely extend nine feet
in height, and this height raises the
rafters sufficiently high to permit the
tallest person to walk with perfect con-
venience under them. The lights are
divided in the middle at the point a,
and the lower are made to slide down
to the D, and the upper to the point a.
The iiue, or hot-water pipe enters on
the east or west end, as most conveni

line c, will receive the full influence of
the sun. The upper lights must be
moved as usual by cords and pulleys,
and if these be let down to the point a,
after the fruit in the front tree is gather-
ed, every part of the trees on the back
wall will be fully exposed to the sun, at
any period of the spring and summer
after the middle of April, without the
intervention of the glass. A single fire-
place will be sufficient for a house fifty
feet long, and I believe the foregoing
plan and dimensions will be found to
combine more advantage than can ever
be obtained in a higher or wider house.
Both the walls and flue must stand on
arches, to permit the roots of the trees
to extend themselves in every direction
beyond the limits of the walls, for what-
ever be the more remote causes of mil-
dew, the immediate cause generally
appears to be want of moisture or
dampness above it. A bar of wood
must extend from d to b, opposite the
middle of each lower light, to support
it when drawn down. — Knight's Select
Papers.

The soil, culture, and pruning are
the same as required for those trees
grown on walls.

Forcing in Pots is a very excellent
mode, and enables the Peach to be
thus grown in establishi:.ents where
there is no regular Peach-house. Pot a
three year old tree in a twelve inch pot,
cutting it back to four buds; and shift
every year until it has attained an
eighteen inch pot, a size which need
never be exceeded. Let the soil be
turfy, and mixed with decaying wood
from the bottom of an old wood
stock.

Commencing forcing and temperature.

ent, and passes within six inches of the

east and west wall, but not within less j The best and most successful directions

than two feet of the low front wall, I on these points are the following, given

and it returns in a horizontal direction
through the middle. The trees must
be planted between the flue and the
front wall, and the other row near the
back wall, against which they are to be
trained.

If early varieties be planted in the
front, and the earliest where the flue
first enters, these being trained imme-
diately over the flue, and at a small dis-
tance above it, will ripen first; and if
the lower lights be drawn down in fine
weather to the point b, every part of
the fruit on the trees which are trained
nearly horizontally along the dotted

liy Mr. \V. Hutchinson, gardener at
Eatington Park. He says: — " Bring the
trees into the house in mild weather
during November, a little earlier or
later according to the state of the
weather; do not start them all, how-
ever, at once ; the last lot are not put
in until the first of January. Any later
than this would not answer, as the
weather, if clear, is then hot through
the day. Commence forcing them at
530 at night, allowing the thermometer
to fall to 50" in the morning, if cold,
but if the weather is mild, never to fall
below 55*-' ; and from thai to 60« is the

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430

PEA

usual temperature kept up throughout I ure of tlie crop is inevitable. To secure
the period of forcing during the night ;' such a supply, it is a most effectual
durijig the day, I make up for low night ' treatment to give the border a top-dress-
temperature, when I have the chance, ing,at the close of February, of charred
by sun heat. Do not be fastidious about : turf. Liquid manure and water, of
a few degrees : to get it high enough is ] course, must !)e given also, as the dry-
the main point, say from 70'-' to So" and j ness of the soil and appearance of the
90"^, until the fruit is stoned, then keep '. trees indicate are necessary,
them very hot during the day, viz. from I Standards. — In Essex, I have grown
95° to 105'', and sometimes even as the peach successfully, both as a stand-
high as 110". Of course a great deal of ard and as an espalier, in a garden
moisture is required with this high tem- I sloping to the south, and well pro-
perature : syringe over head twice a tected from the east and strong wester-
day, and sometimes oftener when the i ly winds.

air is dry, and you will scarcely ever be PEAR. Pyrits communis. Of this
troubled with either green fly or red i fruit four hundred and forty-two varie-
spider. Watering at the root must be ties are at present cultivated in the
carefully attended to-; very little is i Chiswick Gardens, and these with ma-
wanted until the trees get covered with ! ny more are described in the Horticul-
leaves; but after the fruit is stoned they ■ tural Society's Fruit Catalogue,
should be watered plentifully. Ofcourse | The subjoined list, taken from the
the watering must be gradually with-} catalogue ofD. Landreth and Fulton at
drawn as the fruit approaches maturity, ! the old Landreth nurseries comprises a
in order to increase their flavo&r." — selection of choice and approved varie-
Gai-d. Chron. ties, abstracted from the mass in cuitiva-

When the blossoms are well open, tion, the larger number of which are
impregnation should be assisted by the only calculated to disappoint thosewho

aid of a camel's hair pencil

One essential for securing vigorous
production in the Peach-house is to
have the roots of the trees well nour-
ished. If these are not duly supplied

rely on them — either by reason of the
inferiority of the fruit, or want of adap-
tation to our climate — the latter to a
very considerable extent; how else can
we account for the quality of their pro-

with moisture and food during the time duct here, compared with their trans-
the fruit is setting and swelling, a fail- 1 atlantic character ?

Explanation of Abbreviations. — Colour — g green ; y yellow ; rus russet;
r red ; b brown. Size — l large; m medium; s small. Form — obov obovate ;
pyr pyramidal..

Those marked * are of American origin.

CO-

>

name.

LOUR.

FORM.

5

SE.\S0N.

Althorpe Crassanne ....

g

obov

M

1

Oct. to

Nov.

Bartlctt .

gy

pyr

L

1

Aug.

Sept.

Bell Pear

g

pyr

L

2

Sept.

Mar.

Bergamot, Hampden's

rus

round

M

2

Aug.

Sept.

*Bergamot, Autumn

rus

round

M

1

Sept.

Oct.

Bergamotte, Suisse

y r

pyr

M

2

Oct.

Nov.

Bergamotte, Easter .

g

obov

M

1

Mar.

Apl.

Bezi de Lamotte

y

round

M

1

Oct.

Nov.

*Bleeker's Meadow

gy

round

M

1

Oct.

Dec.

*Bloodgood

y rus

obov

M

1

Aug.

Sept.

Beurre de Roi

y

pyr

L

1

Sept.

Oct.

" Diel

y

obov

L

1

Sept.

Dec.

" de Capiaumont

b

obov

M

1

Sept.

Oct.

«' d'Amalis

b

obov

L

1

Sept.

Oct.

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431

PEA

CO-

WjS

NAME.

LOUR.

FORM.

N

SEASON.

Beiirre Bosc .....

b

pyr

L

Sept.

Oct.

" Summer

y

obov

M

July

Aug.

" dWremberg

y

obov

L

Dec.

Jan.

" Easter

g

obov

L

Oct.

Mar.

" de Ranz

g

pyr

L

Feb.

ApL

Buffum ....

y

obov

M

Sept.

Oct.

*Chapman, CaiT-s .

gy

ohov

M

Sept.

Nov.

Chnumontelle .

y

pyr

L

Nov.

Feb.

Columbia ....

y

obov

L

Nov.

Jan.

Compte lie Lamay .

y

obov

M

Sept.

Oct.

Dearborn's Seedling

y

obov

M

Aug.

Sept.

Dix . . .

y

pyr

L

Oct.

Nov.

Doyenne Gris .

rus

pyr

BI

Sept.

Oct.

Duchess d'Angouleme

y

obov

L

Oct.

Nov.

Early Catharine

y

py

s

July

Aug.

Flemish Beauty

y

ohov

L

Sept.

Oct.

Fondante d'Automne

y

obov

M

Sept.

Oct.

Forelle

y

pyr

L

Nov.

Jan.

Frederick of Wirtemberg

y

pyr

L

Sept.

Oct.

(iloux Morceau

g

pyr

L

Nov.

Dec.

Clreen Chisel

g

obov

L

Aug.

Sept.

*Haddington, Smith's

gy

obov

L

Sept.

Oct.

♦Harvard

rus

obov

M

Sept.

Oct.

*Heathcote

y

obov

M

Sept.

Oct.

Holland Green

g

obov

L

Oct.

Dec.

La Bon Cure

y

pyr

L

Sept.

Oct.

L'Echasserie

g

round

M

Nov.

Mar.

*Lewis . • . .

g

obov

M

Oct.

Jan.

Leon Le Clerc — Van Mon

s

y

pyr

L

Oct.

Nov.

*Lodge

rus

pyr

S

1

Oct.

Dec.

Long Green Mouth water

g

pyr

L

Aug.

Sept.

Louise Bonne de Jersey

g

pyr

L

Sept,

Oct.

Madeline

g

obov

M

July

Aug.

ISLirie Louise

y

pyr

L

Sept.

Oct.

Muscat Allemande

g

obov

L

Nov,

Feb.

Passe^Coiinar .

y

pyr

L

Nov.

Jan.

♦Pennsylvania

g

obov

L

Sept.

Oct.

*Petrfe

y

pyr

L

Sept.

Oct.

Rousselet de Rheims

rus

py

L

Oct.

Nov.

*Rushmore

y

obov

M

Sept.

Oct.

*Seckel

rus

obov

S

Sept.

Oct.

Stephen's Genessee

y

obov

M

Oct.

Nov.

St. Germaine, UoedaWs

rus

pyr

L

Nov.

Ap).

*St. Germaine, Prince's

rus

obov

L

Nov.

Jan.

St. Ghislan

y

pyr

M

Oct.

Nov.

Sugar

y

pyr

I.

Aug.

Sept.

Surpass Virgalieu

y

obov

I-

Oct.

Nov.

Swan's Egg

g

obov

M

Oct.

Nov.

Urbaniste

g

obov

m| 1

Oct.

Nov.

♦Washington

y

obov

m| 1

Aug.

Sept.

Winter Nelis

g

obov

M

ll

Dec.

Feb.

The annexed outlines and descrip-
tions of a few prominent varieties will
doubtless interest those who may
not have access to a work especially
devoted to fruits. The descriptions

have been made as concise as
bte, consistent with perspicu
further information, see Cox,
Downing — American pomolog

practica-
lly. For
Kenrick,
ists.

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432

PEA

Fig. 110.

Haddington. (Smith's.) (Fig. 110.)
We have by the merest chance this ex-
cellent addition to our stock of winter
pears. Mr. J. B. Smith, when on his
farm near Haddington, Philadelphia
County, in 1828, reared from the seed
of the pound pear, a number of young
plants for stocks. This one accident-
ally remained unworked, and on Mr.
Smith's removal to the city, was brought
by him and planted in his garden, where
it now stands, singularly erect, and with
few horizontal branches. It comes into
use in December, and keeps through
winter; the skin is green, when ripe
slightly yellow on the sunny side, and
marked by minute russet dots or specks.
The texture of the fruit varies ; some
are quite melting, others incline to
break — it never cracks, bears abund-
antly, and we conceive it quite an ac-
quisition to our winter pears.

Pennsylvania. (Smithes.) (Fig. 111.
This, so named by the Pennsylvania Hor-
ticultural Society, is a seedling on the
grounds of Mr. J. B. Smith, Philadel-
phia. The original tree is 35 to 40 feet
high, pyramidal in form, of robust habit,
retaining its foliage unusually late. Its
origin and age are unknov/n, but this
and the Moyaniensing (subsequently
described) standing in the same gar-
den, have recently been recognized
by an aged lady, who knew these iden-
tical trees when a child. The fruit in
outline and general appearance some-
what resembles the old Beurre — pre-
vailing colour, brownish yellow, occa-
sionally speckled and burnished with
brighter yellow on the upper portion,
the lower or blossom end presenting
a uniform dull brown or russet hue, the
sunny side dotted with red. Stem deep
brown an inch and a quarter long,

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Fig. 111.— (P. 432.)

standing nearly erect, planted on a full
crown ; in some specimens one shoulder
more elevated than the other. Calyx i
small, in a shallow basin. Flesh yel- ,
lowish white, rather coarse grained,
and somewhat gritty; flavour notunlike
tlie butter. Ripe, 10th August to mid-
dle September. It is a fine bearer, never
cracks, and may be classed among the
good American pears.

MoYAME.NSiNG. {Smith's Early But-
ter.) (Fig. 112.) This is supposed to
be a native. It stands in the garden
of Mr. J. B. Smith, Philadelphia, is
28

thirty feet high, open in growth, and
uniformly sheds its leaves early in
August. The fruit vary in shape — some
are roundish, others obovate : colour, a
uniform light yellow. Stem an inch
long, in some specimens set in a shal-
low basin, in others rising from the
crown with a fleshy and enlarged base.
Calyx rather prominent, in a shallow
plaited cup. Ripe from middle July to
close of August. The texture is but-
tery, so much like a Beurre as to have
received the above synonym. It is a
desirable variety.

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434

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Fig. 112.— (P. 433.)

Columbia. [Bloodgood. Downing.)
(Fig. 113.) An American, as its name
implies, produced in West Cliester
County, New York, where the original
tree still exists. This is truly a valuable
variety, in season when most needed —
from November to January. Stem an
inch long, curved. Calyx comparatively
small. Skin, when fully ripe, of a rich
golden hue. Flesh whitish, rich and
aromatic — worthy of general culture.

St. Germain of French and English
Authors. (Fig. 114.) There are but few
winter pears of finer quality than this
old favourite ; and were it not particu-
larly liable to fire-blight, none would
be more cultivated. The outline is fre-
quently quite irregular, but in all speci-
mens full at the blossom end, narrow-

ing towards the stem. The skin is
thick, and green even when fully ripe.
Stem short and obliquelyplanted. Calyx
set in a shallow basin. Flesh white,
and when in perfection, abounding in
juice of exquisite flavour. Ripe from
December to March.

Lewis. (Fig. 115.) This variety de-
rives its name from Mr. John Lewis of
Massachusetts, on whose farm it origi-
nated thirty years ago. It is in season
from November to February, and may be
enumerated among our valuable winter
fruits. It bears most profusely and,
though not externally attractive, the skin
being rough, would doubtless be highly
profitable if cultivated for city sale. Out-
line nearly round, a little flattened at the
crown. Skin green. Stalk an inch and a

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Fig. 113.— (P. 434.)

half long, calyx large and open, basin |
very slightly furrowed. The quality of!
the fruit, though not " first rate," is such
as with its constitution and productive
habit must insure this variety extensive j
cultivation. I

Beurre De Ranz, of Thompson.'
Beurre Range, of Lindley. (Fig. 1 16.)
This is a Flemish pear, and obtains its
name of Ranz from the district in which
it originated. It is one of the longest
keepers, not being in perfection until
spring. Few pears have received more
unqualified praise both here and in Eu-.
rope. The outline is pyriform or pear-
shaped. Skin coarse and always green,
with brownish dots. Stem upwards of an
inch long. Eye quite minute and but

little depressed . Flesh melting, abound-
ing in rich and highly flavoured juce.

Beurre Diel, of Thompson,
Lindley, and others. (Fig. 117.) "This
variety, known by a dozen different
names, of which that above is most
generally used, and should be alone,
is one of the many excellent seed-
lings of Van Mons, and named by
him after Doctor Diel, a conspicuous
amateur fruit cultivator. It has few
superiors in its season, September to
November (or even December in some
climes). We sometimes see specimens
much larger than our drawing, and with
less elevation of shoulder, but the
sketch affords a fair idea of its average
size and appearance. Its habit is ro-

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436

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Fig. 114.— (P. 434.)

bust, and rather peculiar, from the turn-
ing or twisting of its branches. Color
▼arying from light to dark yellow,
blended and dotted with brown. Skin
thick. Stalk an inch or more in length,
bold and curved. Eye set in a shallow
basin. Flesh yellowish white, rich and
buttery. On trees in vigorous growth
and heavy land the fruit is sometimes
rather coarse-grained, and slightly as-
Uingent." — Rural Reg.

Babtlett Pear, of the Americans. —
William's Bonchretien, of the Eng-
lish. (Fig. 118.) " This truly admir-
able variety ia of British origin, first

brought into notice by one Williams,
whose name it bears. Many years ago,
(1799, according to Downing,) it was
imported into Massachusetts by Mr.
Enoch Bartlett, from whose grounds,
near Boston, it was widely dissemi-
nated ; hence the name by which it is
known among us. The habit of the
tree is thrifty and erect, the shoots
strong and vigorous. The fruit is large,
quite irregular in outline, and varying
considerably in different specimens.
Skin smooth, yellow, with a slight
blush on those which have ripened in
the sun, on others entirely destitute of

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Fig. 115.— {P. 434.)

red. Stalk about an inch in length,!
one shoulder more prominent than the |
other; calyx placed in a slightly form-
ed cavity. The flesh is white, and
combines with a delightful aroma, all '
the good qualities of the old well-,
known Beurre or Butter Pear. I

" Ripe middle of August to close of'
September." — Rural Reg. \

Bezi de la Motte. (Fig. 119.)
" This is a pretty widely known French
Pear, and is well worthy of perpetuity,
even though not decidedly in the first
class. Its habit is robust, yields fruit
freely, which keeps well ; the flavour
is aromatic, texture buttery. Its out-
line is roundish — flattened ; the stem
under an inch in length. Calyx va-

riously placed, in some specimens the
basin is shallow and the curvature regu-
lar, in others quite irregular. Skin,
green, in well-ripened specimens yel-
lowish, and spotted with brown dots.
Ripe in October. — Rural Reg.

Washington. (Fig. ISC') " We
have elsewhere expressed our regret
that foreign fruits of doubtful worth,
should have been cherished and dis-
seminated, to the neglect of unques-
tionably fine varieties of native origin.
The Washington Pear is a seedling,
discovered in a hedge-row on the es-
tate of the late Col. Robinson, near
Naaman's Creek, Delaware, some
forty-eight or fifty years ago. We
are informed by our friend Dr. Thomp-

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438

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Fig. 116.— (P. 435.)

son of Wilmington, that the tree still
stands vigorous and healthy, producing
from fourteen to sixteen bushels of
fruit annually. Doct. T. says, 'so far
as my recollection of it goes, it has
never suffered from disease or been
attacked by blight, and I have never
known the fruit of the original tree, or
one of its descendants by budding or
grafting to crack, as does the fruit of the
old Beurre or Butter.' Doct. T. adds,
' Delaware has some state pride in this
pear, quite as much as Pennsylvania
has in her fine Seckel, than both of
which I have yet to see their superiors
among the autumn pears.' In the

opinion of some competent judges he
might have gone a little further and
said, their equals ; and yet from some
unaccountable cause, the Washington
is comparatively unknown. Coxe does
not even name it in his ' view of the
cultivation of fruits' published in 1817,
and Kenrick from the notice of it in his
' Orchardist' had evidently never seen
it. Downing has several typographical
errors in his description ; that portion
destined to be history, should be
amended in his next edition.

"The outline is not unlike that of the
old Butter, Virgalieu or St. Michael,
as it is indifferently called, but rather

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Fig. 117.— (P. 435.)

narrower, and in several particulars ,
very closely resembles that famous
pear ; alas ! now in its decadence. It
is of medium size, uniformly oval. Skin
smooth, yellow, and not unfrequcntly
with a ruddy cheek. Stalk an inch or
more in length, usually placed on a
full crown. Eye, quite small, seated
in a slight indentation ; texture that of
the Beurre, and exquisitely delicious.
Ripe in August (or two or three weeks
before the Butter), and continues in
season until September." — Rural Reg.
CoMPTE De Lamy — (Fig. 121) — Is a
Flemish Seedling of late introduction,
and thus far promises to be entitled to our
regard ; mudVi more so than a majority of
recent importations. There appears to
be an unusual diversity in the form or

outline of this fruit. Some specimens
are roundish, with the stem inserted
obliquely; in others, as in the drawing,
on an elevated, irregularly tapering
crown. We have seen them so diverse
in appearance, as to be scarcely recog-
nized as the same variety. Skin yellow,
marked on the sunny side by brownish
or russet specks. Stalk an inch or
more in length, in some nearly st.-aight,
in others curved. Eye of medium size,
very slightly indented. Flesh white,
buttery, sweet and aromatic. In season
September and October.

Bf.urre d'Aremherg, of French and
English works. (Fig. 122.)— This Pear,
though comparatively little known
in the United States, has reached us
with a high European reputation, and

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Fig. 118.— (P. 436.)

as both the English and French concur in
its praise, it may be safely assumed to be
worthy of culture. It was raised by the
Abbe Deschamps, in the garden of the
Hospice des Orphelius, and has been
distributed under several names, as
Beurre Deschamps, Due D'Areraburg,
&c. The fruit is large, narrowing to-
wards the crown. Skin pale, or yellow- !
ish green, dotted with russet, which !

grows brighter at maturity. Calyx com-
paratively small, deeply planted. Flesh
white, very juicy, and unusually high
flavoured. In season from mid-winter
to spring.

Petre. (Fig. 123.) " One of the many
good fruits of American origin, compa-
ratively unknown ; whilst foreign varie-
ties of less worth have been lauded and
disseminated. The parent still exists, in

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Fig. 119.— (P. 437.)

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" green old age," at the Bartram Gar-
den, on the Schuylkill, three miles from
Philadelphia. It is the product of seed
contributed by Lord Pctr?' to the vene-
rable Bartram in 1735. We have fre-
quently heard Mr. Carr, a connection of
the Bartram family, and present owner
of the grounds, relate its history ; a
pleasing incident in which, was the pre-
sentation to Lord P. after the lapse of a
quarter of a century, of fruit, the pro-
duct of the identical seed he had con-
tributed. We do not think this pear
should be placed in the first class, yet
award it high praise, and advise its
extensive culture. The flesh is buttery,
aromatic, and closely resembles its pa-
rent the Beurre, or Butter. Fruit of
medium size, yeilowjoccasionally slight-
ly marked by russet dots. Stem an

inch long, planted in some specimens
between elevated shoulders. Eye set
in a shallow basin. Ripe close of Sep-
tember, and admits of being kept seve-
ral weeks." — Rural Reg.

Passe Colmar. Lind. : Thamp. : and
others. (Fig. 125.) For this, as well as
some other important varieties, we are
indebted to Hardenpont of Belgium.
It is in eating during winter, and as
our resources at that season are limit-
ed, is additionally valuable. There is
considerable variation in its outline.
The skin coarse, yellowish when ripe,
marked by minute russet dots. Stem
prominent, an inch or more in length,
inserted between elevated shoulders in
many specimens, in others with li..le or
no peculiarity of that kind. The flesh
is melting, abounding with rich arc-

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Fig. 120.— (P. 437.)

matic juice. On the whole this pear
has few superiors in its season, and is
deservedly a favourite.

Propagation. — By Seed, to obtain
varieties, is best practised by following
'the directions for raising seedling Ap-
ples. For raising grafting stocks, the
seeds of the wild pear should be em-
ployed, the produce being hardy.

Grafting and Budding. — Mr. LOudon
has collected together the following
good directions upon these subjects: —

" The most common stocks for graft-
ing the pear, are the common pear and
the wilding; but as the apple, is dwarfed
and brought more early into a bearing
state by grafting on the pawell, on the
white beam, medlar, service, or apple;
but the wilding and quince are in most
general use. Pears, on free stocks,

grow luxuriantly in good soil on a dry
bottom ; those on wildings grow less
rapidly, but are deemed more durable,
and they will thrive on the poorest soil,
if a hardy variety and not over pruned."
" On the quince," Miller observes,
" breaking pears are rendered gritty
and stony ; but the melting sorts are
much improved ; trees on these stocks
may be planted in a moist soil with
more success than those on wildings
or thorns." On the thorn, pears come
very early into bearing, continue pro-
lific, and, in respect to soil will thrive
well on a strong clay, which is unsuita-
ble both to those on quinces and wild-
ings; and the grafts or buds require to
be inserted very low that the moisture
of the earth may tend to favour the
swelling or enlargement of the diame-

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Fig. 121.— (P. 439.)

ter of the stock, which does not increase
proportionally to, nor ever attains the
same size as the stem of the pear. Du-
breuil, a French gardener, recommends
the quince stock for clayey and light
soils, and the free stock for chalky and
siliceous soils. — Enc. Gard.

The suggestion of Mr. D. Mont-
gomery, gardener to the duke of Mont-
rose, is also worthy of adoption, viz.,
that by grafting the alternate branches
of late pear-trees with early sorts, and
early trees with late sorts, there are two
chances of success, the early sort being
very early in blossom; if that fails in
consequence of unfavourable weather,
the late sort, flowering at another time,
may succeed. Farther, the early sort
ripens off before much effort is required
from the tree to support the late sort;

hence, each sort in its season is brought
to greater maturity. — Hort. Trans.

Soil. — A dry loam, when the pear is
grafted upon a pear stock ; but moister,
if grafted upon the quince, is suitable.
Two feet depth of soil is required, and
tiles should be placed beneath the
young trees to prevent their /rooting
deeper. If this be attended to, and the
soil be thoroughly underdrained, the
subsoil is not of much consequence. A
gravelly subsoil is to be preferred.

Pruning Standards is not often re-
quired, and when necessary it is only to
remove crowded, diseased, and cross-
growing branches. This may be done
at any season, unless the branch to be
removed is large, in which case it had
better be amputated early in the spring,
before the sap is in motion. Their

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Fig. 122.— (P. 439.)

fruitfulness is increased if the branches
are fastened down, so that their points
are below the level of their bases.

The shoots of the current year are
bent down when fully grown, about the
end of July, and fixed in a pendent
position by shreds of bass ; m the course
of the winter, these shreds are removed
to admit of pruning;, when the shoots
are found to have taken a set ; in the
course of the summer, such as grow
vigorously are again tied, the object
being to check the vigour of the young
shoots, and by impeding the return of
the sap, to cause it to expend itself in
these young shoots in the formation of
blossom buds. — Card. Mag. See
QuenouiUe.

Culture of Wail Trees.— The follow-
ing are the best directions that have i

been given on this subject: — "Plant
the trees against the wall, fifteen feet
from each other. If they have three
shoots properly placed, they may all be
retained. If only one strong healthy
shoot, in the spring the first tree is to
be headed down within nine inches
high, the next to that one foot nine
inches, and so on alternately, till you
get to the other end of the wall.

" In the summer, train three shoots
from the three uppermost eyes of each
tree, rubbing off all the rest. Nail in
one to the right, one to the left, and the
other perpendicularly. The two side
branches should not be trained in a
horizontal position till the second year.
In the following winter, the centre
shoot of each is to be cut off two feet
above the first pair of lateral branches.

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" In the next summer, the three top
buds are to be trained one on each
8ide, perfectly horizontal, and the mid-
dle one upright; should the centre this
season grow vigorously, and advance
two feet before the end of June, top it
at that height with the thumb and finger.
Three shoots may probably start from
the three upper eyes; if so, nail them
in an easy position, and bring them to
their proper places in the winter prun-
ing; but most probably only two will
break. In this case, as soon as they are
si.\ inches long, train them both on the
opposite side from which you wish a
third shoot, and rather lower than the
liorizontal line ; this will cause the next
bud below the two shoots already ob-
tained to start. As soon as this advances
a few inches, restore the shoots from
the top bud to an erect position, and
the otlier about half the way between
the horizontal and perpendicular line;
observing, if one of the side shoots gets

the advantage of the other, to depress
the strong or elevate the weak as oc-
casion may require; by which means
both will be kept of an equal length.

Fig. 124.

" If by the autumn the centre shoot
has not advanced two feet, or if it does
not appear to have ripened, cut the
three summer shoots off within half an
inch of the place from whence they
sprang; there will then be an upright
centre two feet above the second pair
of horizontal branches, which will not
fail to push vigorously the next spring,
and although in this case only one pair
of branches will be produced this sea-

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Fig. 125.— (P. 441.)

?on, the tree will be much benefited
from having the upright shoot topped,
as the sap by this check will be forced
into the horizontal branches below,
which are often starved by the prodi-
gious and in a great measure useless
growth of the centre. All superfluous
shoots are to be pinched off within an
inch or two as they appear, and, as far
as may be, without leaving the branch
absolutely bare, and entirely cut out in
the winter pruning.

" This treatment is to be repeated till

those trees which have their first pair
of horizontal branches within nineinches
of the ground, arrive within two feet or
eighteen inches of the top of the wall.
These trees are to be considered per-
manent; those which have no branch
till they are one foot nine inches high,
are for a temporary purpose only, and
they may have a pair of branches within
four inches of the top of the wall.

" In ten years, we will suppose, on a
twelve feet wall, most of the branches
will reach twelve or thirteen feet from

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the stem. The wall, therefore, presents upwards for the terminal bud of each

somewhat the appearance of the follow
ing figure.

Fig. 126

" Hitherto it is obvious, that as we
have doubled the number of trees, and
each tree has produced as many, or
perhaps more branches than are capable allowed, continues very luxuriant in

to be within four or five inches of the
horizontal branch above.

" If they show a disposition to grow
too strong, they may be deeply notched,
or a ring may be made round such as
require it, about the eighth of an inch
wide. In either case, let it be close to
the branch from which the shoots spring.
As they become diseased or worn out,
or have produced long spurs, train in a
young shoot by the side of any it may
be proper to displace, and after the se-
cond year cut the old one out. In case
a tree, after it has filled the space

of bearing fruit, and those owing to growth, recourse may be had to the
stopping the leader longer than usual ; | usual methods of checking it, either by
so we must up to this time have double, cutting the roots or sawing the stem
or more than double, the usual quantity half or two-thirds through, just below

of fruit.

" After the temporary trees are re-
moved, the crops will be still larger.
Riders would not have answered the
same purpose, as they would have al-
ready interfered for the last two or three

the surface of the ground, or deep
notches may be made on each side with
the chisel. A single tree may of course
be treated according to this plan.

" The temporary trees, if taken up
with care, will certainly grow, and be

years with the principals, that is, on a found very valuable ; they may be either
wall not exceeding twelve feet; and on | planted against another wall, or if of
this plan the temporary trees are to be | sufficiently hardy kinds, treated as espa-
trained three or lour years longer, during ! liers, cutting oft" the two or three upper
which time they may be expected to pro- pairs of branches ; in either case, young
duce considerable crops. The extremi- shoots are to be trained in between the
ties of the horizontal branch being now j old ones, as already directed for the
withinafootortwoofthestemofthe next I permanent trees. Should you have a
tree, the management of the permanent
trees is to be altered. Instead of pinch-
ing oflf all shoots as they appear, at
every fifteen or eighteen inches all
along the horizontal branches, retain a
well-placed shoot in an easy slanting
position upwards, towards the branches
of the temporary trees. Next year
continue to train them in the same di-
rection ; and, in order to give them
more room, elevate the branches of the
temporary trees six inches above the
place they have hitherto occupied

wall with an aspect not sufficiently
good to ripen the fruit of these removed
trees, or should they be of those kinds
which will not come to perfection as
espaliers, they will nevertheless still
be valuable in this case. After they
have been removed a twelvemonth,
treat them according to Mr. Knight's
mode of changing the sort; that is,
leave the horizontals at very nearly the
full length, but cut off all the spurs,
leaving only bare poles at every twelve,
fifteen, or eighteen inches, according to

" The third year the shoots will most the growth of the sort you intend to in-
likely show blossom; the free bearing troduce.

sorts will do so in two years; but it
must be recollected, we are speaking
exclusively of the shy bearers. If
plenty of blossom appears, the tempo-
rary trees may now be taken up and
planted in, otherwise they may remain
another year. After the temporary
trees are removed, the young shoots,
which we will suppose are now fully
furnished with blossom buds, may be
trained in a direction sutlicieatly sloping

Fig. 127.

"On the upper side, all along the

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branches, make a notch a little deeper
than the bark ; it may be done by two
cuts with a sharp knife, the side nearest
the trunk being perpendicular, the other
sloping ; the graft may then be intro-
duced by the common mode of crown-
grafting. Train the shoots from the
grafts as before directed. In two years
and a half most kinds will produce an
abundant crop, and the trees will be
very nearly as large as those on the
wall from whence they were taken;
thus having an advantage over young
trees of at least ten years." — Gard.
Mag.

In pruning pear trees, never cut off
a shoot which can be laid to the wall ;

evergreen shrub. Cuttings in spring.
Sandy loam and lime rubbish.

PEDICULARIS. Twenty-one spe-
cies, chiefly, if not all, hardy herba-
ceous. Sandy light loam and peat.

PEGGING-DOWN is a process which
has to be pursued annually, in arrang-
ing the lower branches of shrubs, &c.,
on flower borders. It is usually done
with little hooked sticks ; but Mr. Bea-
ton, the scientific gardener at Shrubland
Park, says, — " We take a handfuU of
malting, and cut it into four-inch
lengths; then divide each piece into
three or four pieces; we double these
pieces round the shoots, and fasten the
ends of the matting in the soil with a

for by cutting off the foreright shoots i small dibber, or with the fore finger,
you produce a succession of the same In this way a boy may train and tie
without a chance of producing fruit. ' down all the plants in a flower garden
By laying in these shoots, less wood is i in less time than it would take to pro-
produced; and those buds either on cure pegs for two or three beds, and the
the old wood, or any short spurs which work is much neater than when done
otherwise would have produced only ] with the best pegs." — Gard. Chron.

wood shoots, bear a succession of bios- |
som. — Gard. Chron.

PELARGONIUM. Two hundred and
fifty species. Chiefly green-house ever-

Impregnating the Blossom of Wall ^ greens ; but a few are herbaceous, and
Trees. — Mr. Harrison truly observes, ! a still smaller number tuberous-rooted,
that "it is very usual to see healthy i The shrubby evergreens are increased
pear trees produce an abundance of by cuttings : new varieties from seed

bloom, but set a very small proportion
of fruit : this is particularly the case
with the tenderest kinds. The reason
is in some cases from the stamina being
destitute of farina ; and in others, from
the farina having been dispersed before
the pistils had arrived at a proper state
for its reception. To remedy this, as
soon as the first blossoms have ex-
panded, and the pistillum is in a proper
state of maturity, impregnate six upon
each corymb of blossom. The florets
to choose for this operation are those
situated nearest the origin of the spur;
for when pears set naturally, it is very
generally such florets. The time for

and the tuberous-rooted from seed ;
and all will thrive in a mixture of light
loam and leaf-mould. It is to the
shrubby evergreens that we shall con-
fine our attention, these being the most
beautiful and most generally cultivated.
They form a portion of that large family
formerly known collectively as "Gera-
niums;" but modern botanists have
divided these into three genera : Pelar-
goniums, having usually seven stamens,
and unequal-sized petals; Geraniums,
having ten stamens, and equal-sized
petals; and Erodiums, having five sta-
mens.

Characteristics of Excellence in the

this operation is calm, dry days, and, if i Pelargonium. — "The flower should be
possible, when the sun is not very hot | large, composed of broad rose-leaf pe-
upon the trees. Immediately after- j tals, free from crumple or unevenness

wards give each tree about eighteen
gallons of manure water, or sot1; pond
water, at the roots. The trees should
never be washed over the tops for a
considerable time after this impregna-
tion has been effected." — Treat, on
Fruit Trees.

PEAT-EARTH. See Bog Earth.

PEAT-EARTH PLANTS. See Ame-
rican Plants.

PECriNARIA articulata. Stove

of any kind ; smooth on their edges,
and forming a compact surface ; round
which, if a circle be drawn, the perfect
symmetry of the flower would appear
by the extremity of each petal touching
the circle, without extending beyond
it. It is indispensable that the flower
should be of a stout firm texture, with
sufficient liberty at the bottom of the
cup to prevent its being in the least
cramped ; but allowing it to retain,

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449

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when fully expanded, a fine cupped Master Peel (Beck's).

form, and preventing the falling back Mustee (Beck's), pink, purple spot.

or reflexing of the petals. Its colour, Orion (Foster's), scarlet and maroon.

whether rich or pale, should possess Othello (Beck's), purple and rose.

great clearness : the under petals must Othello (Thurtell's), mulberry and lilac.

be free from veins, and the upper petals Pearl (Catleugh's), white and crimson.

should have a large dark spot running Queen Philippa, rose.

to the bottom of them, as destitute as Rainbow (Thurtell's), mulberry and

possible of a small white feather, which ^ white.

is usually present, and which greatly Regulator (Thurtell's), violet, purple

impairs the richness of this important and white.

part. The beauty of the flower is Rosy Circle (Beck's), dark rose.

greatly enhanced by having this spot Satellite (Thurtell's), puce and white.

clearly defined ; and if it is surrounded Sir J. Broughton (Foster's).

by a dash of crimson, that should have Stromboli (Thurtell's), salmon and pur-

a distinct termination also. The petals' pie.

ought to he quite free from the least Sultana (Foster's), orange and scarlet.

appearance of a watery edge. Finally, Sunset (Beck's), maroon and pink.

it is essential that the leaves should be Superb (Thurtell's), purple and lilac.

large, delicate, and have a healthy ap- j Titus (Hoyle's), rose and carmine.

pearance; and that the fruss should be
composed of several flowers, supported
by a firm foot-stalk standing quite clear
of the foliage." — Gard. Chron.

Varieties. — These are so numerous,
fresh varieties appearing annually, that
it is useless to attempt to enumerate
them ; and the attempt is less needed

Trafalgar (Thurtell's), crimson and

purple.
Unique (Thurtell's), mulberry and

white.
Zanzummim (Beck's), crimson and flesh.
Zenobia (Beck's), rose and mulberry.

Varieties for Forcing. — Admiral Na-
pier; Alba multijiora; and Washington,

because each has passed its period of for earliest; Bella; Gauntlet; Grand

excellence after four or five years.
The following are the best that have
been introduced during the last two
seasons :
Alba Pcrfecta (Thurtell's), white and

purple.
Arabella (Beck's), white and rose.
Aurora (Beck's).
Beliona (Beck's), rosy, purple and

crimson.
Chastity (Beck's).

Desdemona (Beck's), maroon and pink.
Desdemona (Thurtell's), claret and

white.
Defiance (Thurtell's), purplish crimson

and white.
Dr. Lindley (Foster's).

JDuke ; Commodore ; Lord Mayor; King
Rufus ; and Madeline, for succession.

liaising Varieties. — Captain Thurtell,
one of the most successful improvers of
this flower, gives these directions: —

" First. Destroy every bad shaped
(or elongated) under petalled flower in
your possession.

"Secondly. Impregnate (if possible)
every flower yourself, the moment it is
ready to receive the farina, and thus
effectually prevent the effects of the
bee. But so long as you allow bad
shaped flowers to remain in your house,
you can never calculate on impreg-
1 nating with any certainty; and those
who attend to colour in preference to

Duchess of Leinster (Gaine's), orange I shape, will have to retrace their steps.

pink, scarlet spot.
Emperor Nicholas (Silverlock's).
Exactum (Foster's).
Favourite (Beck's), like, but not so

good as, Foster's.
Gulnare (M'Cormack's), pink and white.
Hector (Cock's), rose and white.
Isabella (Beck's), pink and maroon.
Juno (Beck's), carmine and scarlet.
La Polka (Staine's).
Lurida (Beck's).

Mark Antony (Beck's), rose and purple.
Marcaret (Beck's), maroon and pink.
29

Captain Thurtell never raised a good
flower until he attended rigidly to the
above rules." • See Hybridizing.

Sow in July. The seedlings soon
appear; when with four leaves, besides
the seed leaves, pot info 60's ; keep
in warm green-house. In April, shift
into 32's. In June, plunge the pots
in a warm border. At the close of
September, return to the green-house.
They will bloom in the winter or spring.

So/7.— The best compost for growing
Pelargoniums is half sandy loam and

PEL

450

PEL

half leaf-mouli3. The best manure is
liquid, made of sheep's dung. See
Liquid Manure

shaped plants. In the beginning of
April, when fires are discontinued, the
plants are syringed over the top three

^ — ,^ „. ,, — ..J — f, — „ — — ..,- ■

Propagation. — By Cutiings. — Take times a week ; this is done about four
the cuttings in mid-July, and plant o'clock, at the time the house is closed

these in an open border exposed to the
sun.

" In about six weeks," says Mr. Cat-
leugh, the florist, of Hans Place, Chel-
sea, " the cuttings will be sufficiently

and continued during three or four
weeks. The house is well damped
every evening at the bottom, and
the top sashes opened the first thing
in the morning, to allow the damp

rooted to remove, and I pot them into air to escape, and during the day all

sixty-sized pots. To prevent the worms
getting into the pots, they are placed
upon a temporary stage, and allowed
to remain in a shady situation about
three weeks, by which time the plants
will be well established, and bear re-
moving to a more exposed spot, where,
under the influence of the sun and air,
the wood will attain a necessary degree
of hardness. Here they remain until
taken into the house for the winter,

the air is admitted that can be given
with safety. The plants when begin-
ning to bloom are freely watered, and
protected from the scorching rays of
the sun during the middle of the day
by means of canvas, and are thus re-
tained in blossom a much longer time
than would be possible if this precau-
tion were omitted. When the plants
are housed the decayed leaves are re-
moved, and whenever the green fly

^.^..^.. ...^.^ v..^ »-^ .w. v..^ ^.,,...w. , . -. o- —y

which is generally done about the end \ makes its appearance, the house is
of September, before danger arises 1 well fumigated : to do this effectually,
from frost. To make them compact j it must be performed when the plants
and bushy, stop them at the third or are in a dry state, and they must be

e — .u ;„:... — i „u;fv .1 ;„t„ i-„..., I ^yg]| watered the day following. When

the flowering is over, the plants are

fourth joint, and shift them into forty
eight sized pots, mixing a little turl

loam and sand with the compost, to [ exposed for about a fortnight to the sun
allow the water to pass freely through i and air, to harden the wood before be-
the soil ; give but little air during eight ! ing cut down. Those plants which are
or ten days, the plants will be then re- j intended as specimen plants the second
established, and afterwards as much air i season after heading down, are placed

_ _ 1 _ • _ _ -L ._ _ r' .1 _ ^^ • _ _i_-i. 1 _:..._.:„„ ...1 1;«»I«

may be given as the state of the atmo
sphere will permit, until the beginning

sheltered situation, when little
water is given, and as soon as the new

''r"^*" r^ "J " " — to b t ■" &• — 3 -----

of December. The side lights must be j shoots are an inch long are repotted
kept closed during the prevalence of into pots from one to two sizes smaller,
cold winds. The pots by this time will the old soil is shaken from the roots,
be well filled with roots,'and the plants j and good drainage given. The plants
will require shifting into thirty-two i thus treated are kept in better health
sized pots. The bone dust vvhich is I during the winter, from having less soil
now added must be used with caution ; j about their roots. When repotted they
being of a drying nature, it is not used i are placed upon a stage in a shady situ-
near the surface of the soil ; the shoots ;ation, removed into the house at the
are again stopped at the third joint, the I proper time, and undergo the same
house is kept at a temperature of 45*^ ^ treatment the second winter as de-
Fahrenheit for about ten days, and then ! scribed for the first. When those plants
allowed to fall to 40*^ or 42", at which , which are intended for exhibition begin
it is kept. The flues are damped two \ to show their bloom they receive addi-
or three times every night to prevent i tional attention, a little liquid manure
the air from becoming too dry, and | is occasionally given, they are no longer
a little top air is admitted whenever ; syringed over the top, bees are kept

the weather is sufficiently favourable
About the middle of February those
plants, which are intended to be large
specimen plants are shifted again into
twenty-four sized pots; those of vigor-
ous growth will require a size larger.
A small stick is now put to each stem
to train them into uniform and well-

out of the house by means of gauze
blinds, every precaution is taken to
preserve their beauty, and they are
never allowed to flag from exposure to
the sun or want of water. Every grow-
er should begin early to train his plants
for exhibition ; when the shoots are
young and tractable any direction may

PEL

451

PEL

be given to the stems; a uniform and
haniisome appearance will arise from
tlie practice, and the plants will require
fewer supports and less pullin^j about
at the time they receive their final
dressing. The flowers should be so
arranged as to present an equal dis-
tribution of bloom over the leaf of the

About the end of July, having removed
all Pelargoniutns to the back of a north
wall, commence cutting them down,
arranging the prunings as cut olf alpha-
betically for the convenience of finding
the sorts. When cut remove them into
a shed; on the following morning com-
mence planting the cuttings. The

plant, to effect which the stems must scarlet ones put into sixty or small

be secured to small willow twigs."
Gard. Vhron.

forty-eight pots, and place on a flue,
within a green-house, where they re-

Grafting. — Mr. J. Alexander, of quire very little water until they are
Heath Farm, Alley, has grafted the ' struck, when remove them to a cold

Pelargonium very successfully, and his
method is as follows : —

" Graft in August or September,
using pretty well ripened wood of the
same year's growth ; cut back the stock

frame ; give them plenty of air, and
keep them there till the beginning of
November, when stow them away in a
vinery intended to be forced about the
beginning of February. At th.it time,

kinds than on their own roots." — Gard.
Chi'on.

to about three inches long, and in ten or earlier, repot them and place them
days afterwards graft in the manner of^ in another vinery to be forced. By
whip-grafting, and tie with bast and turning-out in time they are nice plants.
clay, over which put a little moss to The cuttings of other sorts put in smaller
keep the clay from cracking, and to pots, and plunge in saw-dust on a gen-
preserve the whole in a moist state, tie hot-bed made of leaves covered by
being occasionally sprinkled with wa- ' a frame; give a litle water to settle
ter in a shadowy part of a vinery, and the mould about the cuttings. They
in a month the grafts begin to grow ; \ require very little after, as the greatest
put into a cold frame for a few days, enemy is damp ; frequently give a little
then take out of the pot, and all the j air. They require scarcely any shad-
earth being shaken from the roots, re- [ ing, unless the sun is very hoi. After
pot in fresh soil, and treat as the other they are struck they receive the same
Pelargoniums. Weak growing sorts treatment as the scarlet ones." — Gard.
grow stronger when grafted on robust Chron.

Growing for Exhibition. — Mr. Cock,
the florist, ofChisvvick, one of the most

Where the saving of space in the j successful cultivators of this flower, has
green-house is desirable, two or more i published the following directions : —
Pelargoniums may be grafted upon the " Strike the cuttings the beginning of
same stock. As many as ten have June, or sooner if the plants are suffi-
been thus united. Pelargonium ele- ciently strong to allow taking two or
gans and Beauty of Ware have been three shoots ort" without injury. Ab
employed successfully as stocks. Cleft- soon as they are rooted, pot them in
grafting succeds as well as whip-graft-! sixty-sized pots, and remove them to a
ing. Worsted may be employed in- j shady situation, or place them in a cool
stead of bast ; and inarching is even a iVame, shading them constantly when
better mode of propagating than graft- : the sun is out, until they have taken
ing. fresh roots. Next transfer to an open

Growing in Open Ground. — Mr. J. situation, and place on slates or boards.
Murdoch has given us the following As soon as the plants will bear the sun
directions on this head : — without flagging, stop them. In Scp-

" Put the cuttings into small pots at temher repot them into forty-eight sized
once, which obviates any check they pots, and at that period commence
would receive when removing them, | training them into the forms you intend
cither from cutting-pots or the open them to have. In December or Jan-
ground ; make beds of mixed varieties, uary, those which are sufliciently strong
chiefly the Old Graveolcns, Fair Helen, are shifted into sixteen-sized pots, al-
Lady Essex, Emily, and Moore's Vic- lowing plenty of potsherds for drain-
tory, which flower freely all the sum- , age ; the others do not shift till March,
mer, and though not so gaudy as some, In these pots they remain to flower,
have a more delightful fragrance. — 1 About the middle of July, or the begin-

PEL

452

PEN

ning of August, cut them down and | loam with the turf and place in a deep
place them in a shady situation, to pit ; shake up lightly into a heap in the
keep the sun from drying the soil too ' ibrm of a mushroom bed. If the wea-

fast ; water is now applied very spar-
ingly. As soon as the plants have
thrown out shoots an inch long, the
soil to be nearly all shaken off, and
repotted into the same sized pots.

" When they have taken fresh root,
the superlluous shoots are thinned out;
in this state they remain until they are
removed into the green-house. j

"2d. Treatment in the Green-house.]
— The plants for exhibition are placed !
on the stage at least four feet apart;
air liberally supplied where the situa- [
lion will allow it; the front sashes !

ther is hot and dry at the time, wel
water with strong manure water, and
cover over with slates as closely as
possible to keep the ammonia, &c.,
from disengaging. In this state let it
remain for fifteen or sixteen days, then
put to every barrowful of loam one of
dung, covering the heap slightly over
at last with loam ; let this heap remain
for a month or five weeks, then to be
turned over three or four times, that
the loam and dung may be well mixed
together; in twelve months it will be
fit for use. To two barrowfuls of this

should be left open all night, while the j compost add one of leaf-mould and a
weather will permit. In November the peck and a half of silver-sand." — Gard.
plants are stopped, a stick put to each j Chron.

shoot to make the plants uniform, and [ Manures. — As already stated liquid
the leaves thinned out to allow the air' manure made from sheep's dung is the

best application, but a little rubbly char-
coal, about the size of nuts, and a small
quantity of bone-dust, promote the lux-
uriance and beauty of these flowers.
Disease. See Spot.
PELLITORY OF SPAIN. Anthemis

to pass freely through the plants.

" In December or January the strong-
est plants are again selected, and re-
potted into No. S sized pots ; additional
heat should then be applied to enable
the plants to root quickly. In Feb-
ruary commence syringing them; X\\\s\ Pyrethrum

is done early in the afternoon, so that
the leaves may dry before night.

PELTARIAaZZ^'area, herbaceous, and
P. glastifolia, annual, are hardy plants.

Sandy peat.

PENNYROYAL. See Mentha

" In March again repot into No. 2 j Seed. Light loam,
sized pots, allowing a larger quantity! PEN^A. Eight species. Green-
than before of potsherds for drainage ;; house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings,
■water is now very liberally supplied.

" When the flowers begin to expand,
they are shaded on the outside o^ ihe\ pulegium.
house with cheese-cloth, which is bet-
ter than canvas, as it admits more
light, and the temperature will not be
higher. Air should always be admitted
before the sun has much power on the
glass ; this precaution in a great mea-
sure prevents the appearance of the
green-fly.

" 3d. la applying fire heat the great-
est care is required, lor on this success
will in a great measure depend. Light
the fires at three or four o'clock in the
afternoon, as circumstances may dic-
tate ; the fires to go out at eight or nine

o'clock, by which time the temperature ; tion ;

PENTAPELES. Two species. Stove
herbaceous. Cuttings. Light rich loam.

PENTARAPHIA longiflora. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich light
loam.

PENTAS carnea. Stove shrub. Cut-
tings. Light rich loam.

PENTLANDIA miniata. Hardy
herbaceous twiner. Probably by divi-
sion. Rich light loam.

PENTSTEMON. Of this hardy herb-
aceous flower there are forty-one spe-
cies, but the following is a good selec-

ought to be 40" or 42'^' Fahrenheit,
which is amply sufficient; relight them
at three or four o'clock in the morning,
by which means the plants are never
overheated, as is frequently the case
when the fires are continued until a
later period in the evening.

" 4th. Preparing the Soil. — Chop up

P. argutus, purple.

P. atropurpureus, brownish purple.

P. campanulatus, rosy red.

P. crassifolius, deep lilac.

P. diftusus, deep blue.

P. gentianoides, brownish purple.

P. gent, coccineus, scarlet.

P. glaiidulosus, deep blue.

PEN

453

PET

P. latifolius, white, slightly stained with bulbs, and lastly fill up the basket with

purple

P. Mackayanus, purple and white
P. Murrayanus, bright scarlet.
P. ovatus, bright bine.
P. procerus, bright blue.
P. pulchellus, light blue.
P. Scoi'ileri, lilac.
P. speciosus, bright blue.
P. venustus, light purple

peat in pieces about the size of walnuts;
place the plant near the glass.

" When the plant begins to grow,
supply it moderately with water; but
as its growth increases a larger (piantity
must be given, and when in full tlower,
water freely. Some of this elegant tribe
of plants are injured if syringed over
head ; such, however, is not the case

Soil. — A light rich loam, mixed with with this plant.
peat. They may be increased by divi- j " The plant having flowered, and the
sion, but the strongest plants are raised pseudo-bulbs being matured, (but in a

from seed.

Propagation. — Sow in October, or
until January, in a cool frame. Keep
the plants near the glass until strong
enough for planting out in late spring.

Always save seed when you can, and them dry until the period of rest
keep a stock of young plants to supply over." — Gard. Chron.

dormant state,) they should not be re-
moved from the same temperature they
were in, when in flowering condition,
which ranged from 70^ to SO^, but
especial care should be taken to keep

vacancies.

P E N T Z I A flabelliformis. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings.
Loam and peat.

PEPPERMINT. Mentha piperita.

PEPPER VINE. Ampelopsis bipin-
nata.

PERENNIAL. A plant that lives
for more than two years.

PERESKIA. Five species. Stove
cactaceous plants. Cuttings. Sandy
loam.

P E R G U L A R I A. Three species.
Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings.
Rich loam.

PERICALLIS ttmsilaginis. Green-
house herbaceous. Seed and cuttings.
Loam and peat.

PERILOMIA ocymoides. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Young cuttings.
Sandy peat.

PERIPLOCA. Four species. Hardy
twiners, except the stove climber, P.
mauritinna. Layers and cuttings. Com-
mon soil.

PERIPTERA punicea. Stove ever-
green shrub. Seed and cuttings. Loam
and peat.

PERISTERIA. Dove Flower. Six
species. Stove orchids. Division of the

PERITOMA serrulnta. Hardy an-
nual. Seed. Sheltered border.

PERIWINKLE. Vinca.

PERNETTIA. Arbutus.

PERSEA gratissima. Stove ever-
green shrub. Layers and ripe cuttings.
Turfv loam aud peat.

PERSIAN SUN'S-EYE. Tulipa ocu-
lus sol is.

PERSICA. Two species and many
varieties. Hardy deciduous trees. P.
vulgaris the Peach, and P. lavis the
Nectarine, which see.

PESOMERIA tetragona. Stove
epiphvte. Division of bulbs. Wood
covered with moss.

PERSOONIA. Eighteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe
cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

PET.4iLIDIUM harlerioides. Stove
shrub. Cuttings. Rich light loam.

PF.TIVERIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

I PETRE.\. Four species. Stove

[evergreens. P.stapelia as a climber,

and P. voluhilis as a twiner, are among

our handsomest plants. Cuttings. Rich

loam.

PETROBIUM arboreum. Stove ever-

bulbs. Turfv loam and sandy peat, with green shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam.
a little leaf-mould. P. Barkeri is one PETROCALLIS pyrenaica. Green-
of the most beautiful of this genus, and • house herbaceous. Seed or division,
for its cultivation Mr. Insleay, of Spring- j Sandy loam and peat,
field, near Birmingham, gives the follow- I PETROMARULA pinnata. Half-
ing directions : — ' hardy herbaceous. Division. Sheltered

" On either a square twig or a conical light rich loam, and winter protection,
wire basket, with the bottom and sides PETROPHILA. Tenspecies. Green-
covered with moss, put pieces of pot-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings.
Bherds, afterwards that of the pseudo- 1 Turfy sandy loam.

PET

454

PH A

PETROSELINUM. Two species.
Hardy biennials. Seed. Common soil.
See Parsley.

PETTY- WHIN. Genista anglica.

PETUNIA. Five species. Tender
or half-hardy herbaceous. Seed and
cuttings. Sandy loam and leaf-mould.
From P. nyctaginijlora, which is white,
and P. vio/acea, purple, are raised the
numerous varieties adorning our gar-
dens.

Select Varieties:
Alice Gray.
Arethusa.
Beauty.

superb.

Bicolor.

Bumons de Willi

(Van Houte's).
Caryophylloides.
Constance.
Delicata.
Dwarf-pencilled.
Enchantress.
Exactum.
Gem.
Gigantea.
Grandis.
Highciare.
Hildida.
Hope (Smith's).
Illuminata.
Kentish Beauty.

Bride.

Lady Sale.
Magician.
Magna Charta.

Magna rosea.

Magnet.

Massengii.

Medora.

Ne plus ultra
(Pearson's).

Nixenii (Harri-
son's).

Ornatissima.

Othello.

Ovid.

Pet (Ivery's).

Picta.

Prince Albert.

Psyche.

Punctata (Mil-

ler's).

Reliance.

Rook's Nest.

Rosea alba.

Splutherii.

Striata superb.

Unique.

superb.

Variegata

Characteristics of Excellence. — Flow-
ers flat, circular, free from indenta-
tions, and firm of"'texture. Colour,
bright and well-determined. Flowers
numerous.

Propagation by Seed Sow in March

in a gentle hot-bed, and plant out at the
end of May, like the half-hardy annuals;
or sow on an open compartment, when
the spring is farther advanced.

By Cuttings. — May be struck almost
at any time, but a good time is " early
in September. The cuttings should be
put into sixties, and placed in the front
of a hot-bed until they have struck root,
■which will be in about three or four
weeks, at which time they may be re-
moved to a cold pit, or to the front of a
green-house.

" Early in February they should be
shifted into forty-eights, in a mixture of
sandy peat, leaf-mould, and loam, and
repotted as fast as the pots become full

of roots, using an inch and a half of
rubbly charcoal, to act as drainage, at
the bottom of each pot. During the
time they are growing in pots they
should be watered two or three times a
week with liquid manure ; and the latter
end of May they may be turned out into
the flower garden." — Gard. Chron.

Winter Protection is best afforded
them in a cold pit, frame, or green-
house. By a little attention, and judi-
cious watering, &c., they will begin to
bloom early in the spring.

PEYROUSIA. Eight species. Green-
house and half-hardy bulbs. Off'sets.
Sandy loam and leaf-mould. Like Ixia,
they will usually thrive in alight-soiled,
sheltered, south border.

PHACA. Fourteen species. Hardy
herbaceous, except P. canescens, re-
quiring a green-house. P. glabra is a
hardy deciduous trailer. Seed. Com-
mon soil.

PHACELIA. Six species. Hardy
herbaceous or annuals. Division or
seed. Common soil.

PHACOSPERMA peruviana. Stove
herbaceous. Seed. Peat and loam.

PHAIUS. Five species. Stove
epiphytes and orchids. Of the former
P. albus is most desirable. It is propa-
gated from young shoots. Peat and
potsherds. The other species are in-
creased by division of the roots. Peat
and sandy loam.

P H A L ^lii N A vanaria. A moth,
abounding usually in June and July, is
thus described by Mr. Curtis: —

" The horns of the male are pecti-
nated ; the wings are of an ash colour
and freckled ; the upper have four
brown marks on the superior margin,
the second crossing the centre of the
wing.

" The larva is a looper, having only
ten legs. It infects the red currant and
gooseberry bushes, feeding upon the
leaves, and is found in May. It is about
an inch long, bluish green, with two
white dorsal and two yellow lateral
lines. It is dotted with little black
tubercles, which produce short black
hairs. It changes late in May to a
chestnut-coloured chrysalis, in a slight
web, on the surface of the earth." —
Gard. Chron.

PHALiEONOPSIS amabilis. Stove
epiphyte. Side shoots. Wood and
moss.

PHALANGIUM. Five species. All

PH A

455

PHY

herbaceous ; P. longifolium, green-
house ; P. glaucum, and P. repalense,
half-hardy; the otliers hardy. Division
and seed. Sandy loam and peat.

PHALEROCARPUS serphyllifolia.
Hardy evergreen creeper. Cuttings.
Moist bog.

PHALOCALLISp/i/mSea. Half-hardy
bulb. Seed. Probably in a light soil,
under a south wall.

the end of March, in pots filled with\
light sandy soil, and placed on a mo-
derate hot-bed, or in a cucumber or a
melon frame. In this situation they
will soon germinate; and before the
first rough leaf appears they should be
potted otf, three or four together in a
large sixty pot, placing the plants at
equal distances round the side. When
potted, they should be returned to the
PHARBITIS. Twelve species, j frame, and kept close for a f(!w days,
Twiners, chiefly annual. P. carulescens 1 to recover from the eftVcts of their re-
is a hardy evergreen; and P. uar/a, a moval ; after which they should be
stove evergreen twiner. The others ' gradually hardened off, by giving them

are hardy and green-house, except P
Z/sp/da, requiring a stove. Seed. Sandy
loam and leaf-mould.

PHASKOLUS. Thirty species. An-
nual twiners, chiefly hardy ; a few are
deciduous perennials. Seed. Light
rich loam. See Kidney Bean.

PllEASANT'S-EYK. Adonis au-
tumnalis.

plenty of air during the day in fine
weather. Finally, about the beginning
of May, they should be removed to a
cold pit or frame, where they can be
fully exposed during the day, covering
them with the lights only at night, and
in bad or cold weather. About the end
of May, when all danger of late spring
frost is over, they may be planted in

PHEIjALIUM. Six species. Green- the open border. The soil into which

house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings,
Peat, sand, and loam.

PlilLADELPHUS. Fourteen spe-
cies. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers
and suckers. Common soil.

VniLl^F.KYlS. grandijiora. Green-
house evergreen twiner. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

PillLLYREA. Ten species. Half-
hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings and
layers. Common soil.

"PHILOTHECA australis. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Young cut-
tings. Sandy peat and sandy loom.

PHILYDRUM lanuginosum. Green-
house biennial. Seed. Loam and peat.

P H L 0 G O C A N T H U S curviflo-
rus. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Light rich loam.

PHLOGOPHORA meticulosa. Angle
shades moth. This is a night moth,
appearing from May to October. The
caterpillar is green, spotted with white.
Upper wings of the moth, rosy white

they are transferred should be either
a light rich sandy soil or peat, with
which a little well-rotted <liing has
been mixed. The plants will require
to have a little water once or twice
after they arc planted, especially if the
weather is dry at the time; but it is
advisable not to water them after they
are once well established. The chief
causes of failure are, sowing the seeds
too soon, or allowing the plants to get
very dry, or pot-bound, before they are
planted out. If once they become
stunted, they will never make good
plants; and the same may be said of
those which have been kept in too
warm a place." — Card. Chron. It may
be liad in perfection from seed sown on
a rich border, latter end of spring, and
cultivated without transplanting.

PIKENIX. Date Palm. Eight spe-
cies. Stove palms. Seed. Rich clayey
loam.

P H 0^ N 0 C O M A prclifern. Stove

The caterpillar feeds upon the Brassica evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and
tribe.

PHLOMIS. Twenty-four species.
Hardy and half-hardy evergreens and
herbaceous perennials. Cuttings. Light
rich loam.

PHLOX. Forty-eight species. Hardy hardy evergreen tri;es. Ripe cuttings,
herbaceous. Division and cuttings, j Loam and peat, and on a south wall.
Rich loam. P. Drumniondi is one ofj PlIYCELf.A. Eight species. Green-
the prettiest of the genus, and its cul- t house bulbs; but they will grow in a
ture is thus detailed by Dr. Lindley : — warm border if protected. Seed and

"The seeds should be sown about offsets. Loam, sand, and peat.

sandy loam.

PiiOLIDOTA. Four species. Stove
epiphytes. Division of bulbs. Wood
and moss.

PilOTIMA. Four species. Half

PHY

456

PIN

PHYLICA. Thirty species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs.

PHYLLIS nohla. Green-house ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Rich clayey
loam.

PHYLLOCLADUS rhomboida-
lis. Green-house evergreen tree. Ripe
cuttings. Loam and peat.

PHYLLOMA. Four species, all ever-
greens. P. aloiflorum is a stove tree;
the others, green-house shrubs. Suck-
ers. Sandy loam.

PHYLLOPERTHA horticola. The
garden beetle. It is thus described by

cies. Hardy herbaceous. Seed and
division. Common soil.

PHYTOLACCA. Nine species.
Chiefly stove herbaceous. P. decandra
is hardy and wide spreading. Seed and
cuttings. Rich light soil.

PIARANTHUS. Seven spe-
cies. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings in the spring. Sandy loam and
lime rubbish.

PICK-AXE, should have a handle
three feet and a half long, made of
ash; and the points or edges of the
head should be of well-steeled iron.

Mr. Curtis: — "It is about four lines [ There are three varieties : — 1. The pick
and a half long, and three broad. Its with two points, for loosening hard sur-
elytra, or wing cases, are reddish- 1 faces. 2. The pick-axe, for cutting
brown, shining, and do not reach quite | through roots of trees when felling.

3. The mattock, with one pointed and
one flat edge, for loosening surfaces,
and grubbing up roots.

PICOTEE. See Carnation.
PICRIDIUM. Four species. Hardy
Division or

to the extremity of the body ; the head
and thorax are dark green. It appears
on the leaves of the apple and pear in
June, feeding on the very young fruit.
When alarmed it feigns death, by fall-
ing on its back, and extending its legs ! herbaceous and annuals
in a stiffened manner, and in different , seed. Common soil,
directions. The female deposits her j PICTETIA. Two species. Stove
eggs in the earth, and the larvcB feed i evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings.

on the roots of plants

The only method we are acquainted

Loam and peat.

PIERARDIA dulcis.

Stove ever-

with of lessening the numbers of these i green tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam and

beetles, is to collect and destroy them
early in the morning, or late in the
evening, when they may be found stick-
ing to the plants, and they can readily
be seen from their colour and size.
During the day, and particularly if the
weather is hot, they fly about with great
swiftness, and are not easily caught." —
Gard. Chron.

PHYSEMATIUM. Two species.
Stove herbaceous. Division. Peat and
loam.

PHYSIANTHUS albens. Stove
evergreen climber. Seed and cuttings.
Loam and peat.

PHYSOCLAINA, Two species.
Hardy herbaceous. Seed and division.
Common soil.

PHYSOPIPHON. Four species.
Stove epiphytes. Division of bulbs.
Wood and moss.

PHYSOSTEGIA Seven species.
Hardy herbaceous. Division. Rich light
loam.

PHYSURUS pictus. Stove shrub.
Cuttings, Light ricli loam.

PHYTELEPHAS macrocarpa.
Stove evergreen shrub. Seed. Peat
and loam.

PHYTEUMA. Twenty-three spe-

peat.

P I E R I S Cratcegi. Hawthorn, or
Black-veined Butterfly. Is white, with
black ribs or veins on the wings. It is
very much like Pontia Brassica. The
caterpillar is dirty yellow, hairy, black-
headed, and a brown stripe down its
sides. Tlie caterpillars mould several
times, and they are usually found on
the apple-tree, where both the yellow
eggs and caterpillars may be found in
June. The caterpillars draw two or
three leaves together with a web.
These should be sedulously sought for
and destroyed.

PI LEA muscosa. Stove evergreen
trailer. Cuttings. Common soil.

PIMELEA. Twenty-eight species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings. Sandy peat and loam.

PIMPERNEL. Anagallis.

PINCKNEYA pubens; a beautiful or
rather curious southern shrub, scarcely
sufficiently hardy to support the winters
of Pennsylvania. Cuttings. Sandy peat,
beneath a south wall.

PIN E-A P P L E. Annnassa. The
pine-apple is but little cultivated in the
United States, though it is probable the

P I N

457

PI N

increase of wealth and luxury among ; should be placed in the same kind of
us, may ere long induce its culture un- earth, not damp, or they will be liable
der glass, in common with the grape, to be affected at the base with rot or
peach, &c., though the same necessity mildew.

as in England does not exist — our; "Soil. — The pine will grow well in
proximity to the tropics enabling us, at any kind of turfy, rooty, well-sweetened
least on the seaboard, to obtain the pine pulverized soil, from heath soil to a
in tolerable perfection, and at a tithe of heavy clayey loam. I make choice of

the cost of producing it ourselves; we,
however, insert the article on this fruit
as it stood in the original edition of this
work.

I believe the most successful cultiva-

a heathy turf when obtainable, with the
roots and its natural vegetation all with
it; never breaking it until at the pot-
ting bench, as the process of potting is
soini; on. Then we break the sods,

tor of this fruit is Mr. Barnes, gardener which are mostly chosen about two or
to Lady Rolle, at Bicton, near Sidmouth, three inches in thickness, in such kind
and to that excellent horticulturist I am I of pieces as we can thrust into the pots,
indebted for the following detail of his putting in, as we proceed, some pieces

latest system of culture : —

of charcoal, always taking care to drain

Varieties: — We cultivate the Queen the pots carefully, which is one of the
principally for fruiting at all seasons. I chief essentials. Our drainage is prin-
We also grow a few of the large black cipally coarse charcoal, averaging one-
kinds, which are all of easy culture, fourth of Lroken rubbly potsherds,
and may be grown to a very large size which are placed first round about the
indeed. We have of late grown the i bottom ; then, if it is a seven-inch pot,
Queen Pine from six to nearly eight for a sucker, the drainage averages two
pounds in weight, and those have been j inches at least ; and if fifteen or eight-
produced from plants of only a few een-inch pots, which are the largest
months' growth. The other varieties fruiting pots I make use of, the druin-
we cultivate are — the Russian Globe, age is employed in a coarser state, and
English Globe, Enville, Green Olive or about two inches more of it, and the
St. Vincent, Montserrat, Black Ja- | soil too is thrust into the pots rougher —
maica, Otaheite, Brown-leaved Sugar brambles, furze, bushes, heath, and
Loaf, and Black Antigua, only two or ' grass altogether — with no other kind of
three plants of each, and those we are ; manure, besides an occasional lump or
about reducing. All these varieties are handful of rubbly charcoal, merely to
of easy culture, and free swellers, ca- fill up some of the crevices. It is not
pable of being grown to a great weight. | rammed, that is to say, not pounded, or
To equal a Queen of six pounds weight jammed together in the same way pot-
they ought to be from ten to fourteen ting is too often done, but pushed down
pounds weight each fruit, but we only 1 as we proceed, quietly. Thus the soil
average them from six to ten pounds is really a whole body of drainage-

weight.

" Propagation. — I have practised in
my time various methods, but my pre-
sent mode is only by suckers. These
are pulled off immediately the fruit is
cut, and at once potted, no matter what

there is no obstruction either to the
atmosphere or the water. I have no
particular time or season for shifting,
potting, or repotting — we do all these
at any season of the year, whenever we
fancy the plants seem to require it.

season of the year it may be. Thus, as Never shift a plant, or repot, but twice
soon as a fruit is ripened, the plant is at the most. If it is a strong spring
lifted out, and another at once planted sucker, it gets with me but one potting
in its place. One sucker, or, perhaps, from the sucker pot to the fruiting pot.
two, are occasionally left, but not often. I have left otf altogether making use of
Those taken off are at once potted. By any kind of manure with the earth be-
this practice a constant succession of sides charcoal ; excepting to free-grow-
plants is kept up, and fruit of various ing plants occasionally we apply weak
ages. I never care •or the cromis, liquid manure — as clear as wine — al-
though, if taken off in due time, and ways applying it in a tepid state, and in
potted at once, in well sweetened dry the growing, warm part of the season,
pulverized earth, they will make equal- I To the succession plants we apply it
iy good plants. Of course the suckers | with the syringe or engine over the

PIN

458

PIN

whole of the foliage and surface of the
plunging materials.

" The Bottom Heat is at all times
kept very moderate, the surface loosen-
ed often with a pointed stick, or two-
pronged fork, so that there is no ob-
struction to prevent the free circulation
of the atmosphere. As to stating the
exact temperature in our variable dark
climate, it is impossible — but the right
side is to aim at a too low, instead of
overdoing it ; the former is the easiest
to be got over. A small portion of
fermenting or plunging materials, kept
in a kindly condition, is always quite
sufficient to command bottom heat
enough. My fruiting plants have about
one foot eight or nine inches of plung-
ing materials, and stand on loose bricks
in it ; of course, as the season and tem-
perature of the interior atmosphere
alter, so does the bottom heat, under
this system ; I look to nature for the
example. I cannot inform you how
strong, or to what extent, the manure
water ought to be applied to plants of
such or such an age, or size, or va-
riety— so much depends on a variety of
circumstances ; all I know is, what to
apply to those I have under my own
charge. A pot or two of good ale, or
a slice of beef or bacon will do won-
ders with a hard-working, strong,
healthy-constituted man — which would
not be likely in the least to agree with
another person, afflicted with disease
or weakness.

" The Temperature of the Air. — I at
all seasons regulate according to the
light we receive, never tying it down to
a certain degree. Some light, still,
mild days, even in late autumn or
winter, five degrees more can be well
afforded, with air, than in a daric, cold,
gloomy, windy, or stormy day, could
safely be applied in summer. Suffice
it to say, I regulate the atmospheric
interior air from about 5.5° to 75^, the
former the minimum in short dark days,
and the latter the maximum in long
light days; for heat without light is
sure to cause, in time, immaturity, dis-
ease, and vermin.

" Diseases and Vermin. — By follow-
ing the above directions, no such thing
will be seen or known, and those that
are already troubled with either, will,
by following the above directions, get
very soon clear of either."

To this mode of Pine-growing made

easy, but little need be added. Those
who are not so successful in keeping
their pine-apples free from Scale, and
other diseases, will find some informa-
tion on those points under their respect-
ive titles in other pages of this volume.
I will only venture to add, that I think
growing the pine-apple in beds is pre-
ferable to growing it in pots ; all Mr.
Barnes's directions being adapted to
that. I also think Mr. Barnes's maxi-
mum temperature rather too low, and
that during bright sunny weather, and
the long days of summer, 80" may be
used with advantage. In Bengal, pine-
apples grow in the open air with very
little cultivation, and attain a weight of
seven pounds, in a temperature rang-
ing between the extremes 1203 and oS^.

PINE-TREE. Pinus.

PINEASTER BEETLE. See Bos-
trychis.

PINGUICULA. Six species. Hardy
and half-hardy herbaceous. Division.
Shaded, boggv soil.

PINK. Dianthus.

Varieties. — These are added to an-
nually ; but the following are first-rate
flowers, sufficient for any amateur : —

Acme (Brown's).

Alpha (Garrat's).

Achates (Neville's).

Alfred (Wallace's).

Beauty (Fairbairn's).

Beauty (Turner's).

Conqueror (Barrett's).

Defiance (Norman's).

Dr. Edwards (Ottey's).

Duke of Northumberland (Head-
ley's).

Duke of Wellington (Norman's).

Eclipse (Brown's).

Eclipse (Bankell's).

Enchantress (Neville's).

Garland (Brown's).

Gauntlet (Dawson's).

Gem (Hodge's).

Great. Britain (Ward's).

Henry (Norman's).

Henry (Wallace's).

Lord Brougham (Acres).

Mary Anne (Jelf's).

Masterpiece (Turner's).

Miss Kate (Fairbairn's).

Monitor (Neville's).

Ne plus Ultra (Kean's).

Omega (Unworth's).

One Hundred and Thirty-four
(Brown's).

One Hundred and Sixty-six (Hodge's).

PIN

459

PIN

President (Creed's.)

Prince Alliert (Leg<;'s).

Prince of Wales (VVilmer's).

Queen of England (Hale's).

lloseana (Churclrs).

Triumphant (Ibbet's).

Warden (White's).

Characteristics of Excellence. — Flow-
er circular when viewed in front ; semi-
globular in profile, and uniform in size
on the same plant. Petals stout, smooth-
edged, each row smaller than those be-
low it. Colour, ground white; lacing,
whatever its tint, should have a border
of white beyond it; colour of the lower
limb of the petal extending so as to be
seen above the while edge of the petals
above. Lacing unbroken.

Raising Varieties. — M. Fries Movel,
gives these directions: —

" Just before sunrise open carefully
the Hower to be operated on, and ab-
stract the anthers with small pincers.
About eight or nine o'clock place the
ripe pollen from another flower upon its
stigma, and repeat this two or three
times in the course of the same day. If
the act of impregnation has taken place,
the tlower will fade in twenty-four or
thirty-six hours; but if not, the tlower
will remain in full beauty, in which
case, the attempt must be repeated.
This should always be done in fine
serene weather, and care should be
taken to defend this impregnated tlower
from rain and mists. Plants raised from
seeds which have been crossed always
bear the form of the mother, but take
the colours of the male parent. Fewer
seeds arc produced by art than by na-
ture alone; and the impregnated flow-
ers are less visited by bees than others."
— Gard. Mag.

Layering. — Mr. J. Mearns, of the
Manchester Zoological Gardens, says
that he thus conducts this operation : —

" I do not use a dibber to plant with,
but my forefinger ; I lay the lower end
of my slip horizontally upon the surface
of the soil, and so press it down into
it; when from the firmness of the soil,
the slip is compelled to clip round the
end of the finger. With the other hand
I turn up the lop to its perpendicular,
and press the lower end down till the
tail is about half an inch beneath the
soil ; I then make the soil firm, and the
operation is complete. The pipings
are best left with no other attention
after planting, besides occasional water-

ing in dry weather, and keeping them
free from weeds till the time for plant-
ing out, which may be done at any time
after the plants are perfectly rooted ;
the usual season, however, to plant
out for the flowering in the highest per-
fection is Septeniber, and for propaga-
tion all the month of June, even to the
middle of July." — Gard. Chron.

By Pipings. — In selecting the grass
(stems) lor pipings, strong and short
jointed shoots should be chosen. The
piping should be cut off" with a sharp
knife immediately below the second or
third joint from the top of the shoot, and
it may then be readdy disengaged from
the two leaves which surround its base,
and which are commonly termed a
sheath. Tlie tips of the leaves should
be shortened for the sake of conve-
nience, otherwise when planted it will
be difficult to prevent the hand glass
from resting upon them, or from dis-
turbing them whenever it is removed.
As the pipings are prepared, they should
be put into a basin or pan filled with
water to prevent them from flagging be-
fore tliey are planted. For this and
similar delicate operations the cool
hours of the evening are most suitable.
In planting the pipings they should be
pressed firmly into the soil to the depth
of about half an inch, leaving them
an inch and a half apart every way;
and after being properly secured, they
should be gently watered through a fine
rose to settle the mould closely round
the stems, and as soon as the leaves
become thoroughly dry, a bell glass
should be placed over them. The glass
should be pressed lightly into the tnould,
to prevent as much as possible the in-
gress of air. In sunny days, the bed
should be shaded from seven to eight
o'clock in the morning until five or six
in the evening ; and if there is any ap-
pearance of damp amongst the pipings,
the glasses should be occasionally taken
ofl" to allow them to dry, and all plants
so attacked should be immediately re-
moved. It is very probable that the
pipings will not recjuire to be watered
until the greater part of them have taken
root ; should watering, however, be ne-
cessary, the leaves must be allowed to
become dry before the glasses are re-
placed. As soon as roots are formed
the hand glasses should be slightly
raised on one side, and may be gradu-
ally withdrawn. The young plants.

PIN

460

P IP

after beinrr by degrees inured to the tied close withoutfurther hazard. When
sun, may be transplanted six inches > the forvvardest blooms begin to expand,
aoart in an open bed previously pre- hoops should be fixed across the bed, to
pared for the purpose, in which situa- support mats or any other lighter mate-
tion they may remain until required for rial that will serve to protect the flow-
planting finally in the beds, where they ' ers either from the rain or from the rays
are to bloom. — Gard. Chron. j of the sun. They need not, however,

Soil and Manure. — Sandy turfy loam, [ be shaded earlier than nine o'clock in
such as the top spit of an old pasture, the morning, or later than five or six in
mixed with one-fourth its bulk of old the evening; but if there is the least
cow-dung, makes a soil very beneficial appearance of a wet night, they had
to this flower. Woollen rags mixed 1 better be covered before leaving them.
with the soil are also strongly recom- ; Should the season be dry, they will re-
mended. I quire regular watering between the
Bed. — Raise the bed six inches above ' rows; rain or pond water, where pro-
the soil around, and formed like a curable, is always to be preferred. A
pitched roof, thus: The compost should little clay or stiflT loam placed in the

form of a margin round the edge of the
Fig. 128. bed would serve as a basin, and prevent

the water from escaping into the path
or alley." — Gard. Chron.

PIN-PILLAR. Opuntia curassavica.
PINUS. Kir Tree. Sixty-eight spe-
cies and many varieties. Seed, layers,
be at least a foot deep. Plant in rows, inarching or grafting. Sandy loam on
and twelve inches apart each way. a dry subsoil. See Conifera.

After Culture. — "The first thing to PIP, in floriculture, is a single corolla
be attended to will be to thin out the ; or flower, where several grow upon a
flower-stems, in order to throw more i common stem, as in the Polyanthus and
strength into those which are left. Auricula. The pips thus growing to-
When the plants are weak all the ! gether are described as a Ti'uss.
stems should be removed but one, and I PIPER. Pepper. Twenty-seven
on a plant of moderate size not more I species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cut-
than three should be retained. These I tings and suckers; loam and peat. On
again should be looked over, and the the culture of the Black Pepper, (P.

lateral flower-buds removed from them
leaving only the terminal bud and the

Tiigrum.) Dr. Lindley observes, that
it grows luxuriantly in many stoves,

next but one below it; provided these i biit is shy in ripening its fruit. This is
are perfect in form, all the rest may be probably owing to the uniform moisture
pinched off". In tying up the stems of which is kept in these places. It should
pinks and other plants of this class
great judgment is required; in fact, de-
lay is better in this instance than too
much haste. If tied too high at first,
the stems, as they lengthen, are pre-

be planted in a large tub or box well
drained, all the strong flower-bearing
shoots should be supported with strong
stakes, and the small useless ones cut
away. When not growing much, keep

vented by the ligature from growing it rather dry, and give it a slight check,
erect, and become crooked, or perhaps and be careful not to give it too much
snap off" at the joints. They should, I water after flowering. Bottom heat,
therefore, be looked to every day particularly when growing, is indispen-
where practicable; and if there is the [sable." — Gard. Chron.

PIPERIDGE, the Barberry.

PIPES for heating horticultural struc-

least appearance of any flower-stem

having become cramped the tie should

immediately be cut loose. The safest } tures are preferably made of cast iron,

painted black. Earthenware has been
recommended for the purpose, but they
arc so much more liable to breakage
and leakage, as to outweigh any original
saving in the cost. For draining, earthen

way is to secure the bush to the flower

stick, to which, the stem should be

looselv tied so as to allow it perfect

liberty to slide through as it increases

in height. These ligatures, when the

plants have acquired their full growth, : pipes with a bore an inch in diameter

can be easily removedj and the plants are the best.

PIP

461

PIT

Table of the quantity of pipe, four inches diameter, which will heat one
thousand cubic feet of air per minute, any required number of degrees- the
temperature of the pipe being 200" Falirenheit.

Temperature of

T

emperature at which the room is required to 1

external air.

be kept.

Falir. Scale.

45"

50"

35"

60°

65"

703

75"

80"

85°

.90°
409

10"

126

150

174

200

229

259

292

328

367

12

119

142

166

192

220

251

283

318

357

399

14

112

135

159

184

212

242

274

309

347

388

16

105

127

151

176

204

233

265

300

337

378

18

98

120

143

168

195

225

256

290

328

368

20

91

112

135

160

187

216

247

281

318

358

22

83

105

128

152

179

207

238

271

308

347

24

76

97

120

144

170

199

229

262

298

337

26

69

90

112

136

162

190

220

253

288

327

28

61

82

104

128

154

181

211

243

279

317

30

54

75

97

120

145

173

202

234

269

307

Freezing point 32

47

67

89

112

137

164

193

225

259

296

34

40

60

81

104

129

155

184

215

249

286

36

32

52

73

96

120

147

175

206

239

276

38

25

45

66

88

112

138

166

196

230

266

40

18

37

58

80

104

129

157

187

220

255

42

10

30

50

72

95

121

148

178

210

245

44

3

22

42

64

87

112

139

168

200

235

46

15

34

56

79

103

130

159

190

225

48

7

27

48 1

70

95

121

150

181

214

50

19 1 40

62

86

112

140

171

204

52

111 32

54

77

103

131

161

194

To ascertain by the above Table the quantity of pipe which will heat one
thousand cubic feet of air per minute: — find, in the first column, the tempera-
ture corresponding to that of the external air, and in one of the other columns
find the temperature of the room; then in this latter column, and on the line
which corresponds with the external temperature, the required number of feet
of pipe will be found. See Hot water and Steam.

PIPE-WORT. Eriocaulon.

P1PL\G. See Pink and Carnation
for this mode of propagation.

PIPTANTHU8 nepalensis. Hardy
deciduous shrub. Layers and cuttings.
Rich loam.

PIPTOCLAINA supina. Hardy an-
nual. Seed. Common soil.

PIQUERIA trinervia. Hardy herb-
aceous. Division. Light rich loam.

PISCIDIA. Jamaica Dogwood.
Two species. Stove evergreen trees.
Cuttings. Light loam.

PISCINARY is another name for a
fish pond, which in landscape garden-
ing comes under the general terms
Water and Pond, which see. ■

PI ST A CHI A. Four species and
more varieties. Hardy and half-hardy
evergreen and deciduous trees. Lay-

ers and ripe cuttings ; light rich loam.
Even the hardy species of this genus
do best against a wall.

P I S T O R I N I A hispanica. Hardy
biennial. Seed. Light well-drained soil.

PISUM. Pea. Seven species and
many varieties. Hardy annual climbers,
except the herbaceous perennials, P.
americanum and P. maritimum. Seed.
Rich dry soil. See Pea.

PIT, in the Conservatory, is the body
of soil in which the shrubs, &c., are
planted ; in the Stove, it is the excava-
tion in which is the tan, or other mate-
rial for plunging the pots; and for
Forcing, it is a structure having a glass
roof, and dift'ering from a forcing frame
only in being larger, and with sides
fixed to the soil. Pits for this purpose
were usually sunk in the ground; but

PIT

462

PL A

it has been justly observed, that " sunk- | door in the back wall, and the passage
en pits are inconvenient to ^et at ; there j along the middle, a person can go in at
is no pulling their sashes off and on j any time without pushing down the
with ease, and ventilation is trouble- sashes, and reaching from the back to
some. Then, again, in spite of all that the front, he can water or do anything

can be done, they will always be damp ;
and although this is advantageous for

else the plants may require.

' This pit is extremely useful for

some purposes, it is destructive to raising seeds, or for growing small

green-house plants in long winters.
Upon tlie whole, the inconveniences,
are at least as considerable as the ad-

green-house plants, and keeping such
things as verbeneas, petunias, and scar-
let pelargoniums, for turning out into

vantages. We doubt whether sunken j the flower garden during the summer
pits can often be recommended in gar- I months ; or by dividing it into two parts

dens.

-Gard. Chron.

by a partition, having a door in it, one

Under the various titles Melon, Cii- [ half may be used for striking cuttings,
cumber. Pine Jipple, ^-c, descripUons of raising seeds, or keeping plants, which
pits suitable for their cultivation will J have been newly potted off, and the
be found. The following outline is of other filled with well established plants,
one for various purposes, strongly re- : requiring more light and air; so that,
commended by Mr. R. Fortune, gar-! with a little contrivance, it is astonish-

dener at the Chiswick Gardens :
Fig. 129.

a, stages and back and front shelf;
h, passage along the middle; c, pro-
posed tank ; d, proposed ventilators.

The width of tlie pit is nine feet ;
and, as the sketch is drawn from mea-
surement, any one may easily ascertain
the different proportions.

The two stages are made of wood,
having cross bars, as seen atffl, and up-
right bearers on each side of b. The
small shelf in front is supported by a
bracket, which also supports the hot
water pipes ; and the back shelf might! dria.
be supported in the same manner, al-
though in this instance it is formed out
of the thickness of the back wall. The
only improvement in its construction,
is to have a large tank in some conve-
nient place in front, as at c, to receive
the rain which falls on the roof; and also
some wooden ventilators in the back and
front wall at d, which could be opened
at those times when it is not prudent to
draw down the sashes. By having the

ing how many things the amateur may
do in a small place like this." — Gard.
Chron.

PITCAIRNIA. Seventeen species.
Stove herbaceous. Seed and suckers.
Moss potsherds. They are really epi-
phytal.

PITCHER-LEAF. Nepenthes phyl-
lamphora.

PITCHER-PLANT. Nepenthes dis-
tillatoria.

PITTOSPORUM. Eighteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs, except
P. tobira, which, matted, will sustain
the winter south of Virginia. Ripe cut-
tings. Peat and loam.

PLADERA. Two species. Green-
house biennials. Seed, and cultivated
like the Balsam.

PLAGIOLOBIUM. Two species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

PLASTER OF PARIS. See Gypsum.

PLANERA. Two species. Hardy
deciduous trees. Layers on grafts of
the elm. Light loam, near water.

PLANE TREE. Platanus.

PLANK PLANT. Bossiaa scoloppn-

PLANTAIN TREE. Musa.

PLANTATION. The ornamental
distribution of trees is considered under
the titles Clump, Wood, ^-c. ; and here
will be considered only a few practical
details relative to the planting and ma-
nagement of trees.

Selection. — Our guide in this must be
the nature of the soil. If chalk is a
principal constituent of this, the beech,
birch, and ash must be the trees chiefly

P L A

463

PL A

ailopted ; if clay, the oak ; if rich loam, plant for merely ornamental purposes;
the elm. In moist situations, the akler, and It is because all timber trees con-
sallow, and willow; and in mountain, tain phospliate of lime in very con-
and dry soiled districts, all the hardy siderabic proportions, that crushed
conifera;, the bircli and the ash. Peat, bones are found to be so excellent a
if well drained, wdi bear the Scotch fir; fertilizer for them ; and hence one rea-
and the Spanish chestnut will flourisli son, why it has long been a well-known
on light sheltereil loam. On the poor- fact, that by burying dead animals un-
est and lightest soils, if well drained, ! der trees nearly exhausted for want of
the larch will establish itself. Similar nourishment, those trees will almost
attention must be paid to the soil in : invariably be considerably revived, and
locating the shrubs. Rhododendrons \ send out their shoots with unusual vi-
delight in shade and leaf-mould; and [ gour ; and how essential the presence
others have their particular soils, of i of phosphate of lime is to their growth,
which information will be found in other may be judged of from the fact, that
pages, under their appropriate titles. ' this salt constitutes 45 per cent, of the
Manures. — Trees, like all other ashes of the oak; 35 in those of the
plants, are benefited by being appro- hazel; 16.75 of the poplar; 23 in the
priately manured; their growth is thus hornbeam; 12 per cent, in those of the
accelerated, and contrary to old opin- fir.

ions, it is found that the wood of These chemical examinations natu-
quickly-growing trees is more durable, rally support the conclusion to which I
and more tough than that of trees of have long come in my own experiments,
the same species which have vegetated that in all plantations of timber trees,
more tardily. Calcareous matter is al- both on the score of profit and of orna-
ways required by trees; and my brother, ' ment, it is in almost all situations de-
Mr. Cuthbert Johnson, has truly stated sirable to assist the growth of the young
that on the poor hungry heath lands, trees by a sinall addition of manure,
such as those of Norfolk, Surrey, and 1 On a large scale this must be chiefly
the north, which contain hardly a trace confined to the use of the earths, either

of carbonate of lime, they find that, by
dressing with chalk or marl, land in-
tended for planting, the growth of the

lime, chalk, or marl, according to their
respective local value ; and for this
purpose a smaller proportion per acre

trees is very materially increased; and j of any kind of manure is of much great-
more recently, as in the forest of Dama- 1 er value than is commonly supposed,
way in Scotland, the planters have I I have usually, under every plant, mere-
found the greatest advantage from plac- | ly applied a small shovelful of tolerably-
ing only a handful of lime (about four rotted stable dung, stirring it up with
bushels per acre is sufficient) in the soil the mould ; and, as these experiments
under the plants. By this means the were principally made on a poor hungry
young trees, they say, are forced for- gravelly soil, nearly destitute of carbon-
ward ; that is, they are supplied with ate of lime, I have usually added to the
the carbonate of lime at the very period ' beach plants, instead of the farm-yard
of their growth, when their roots, from manure, a small quantity of chalk,
want of extent and vigour, are least j Trenching. — In preparing the land
able to absorb from the soil the portion for plantations, the same chemical ex-
ofthis earth so essential for their healthy ! amination of the composition well illus-
growth. And it is precisely such heath tratcs the advantages derived by the
soils as those to which I have alluded ! plant, from merely previously stirring
as being so materially benefited by the I the soil ; since it is evident that when
application of lime, chalk, or marl the constituents of the young trees are
(which also contains chalk), that are ' contained in it in only very limited pro-

found, when examined in their natural
state, to be nearly destitute of carbon-
ate of lime.

It is for the same reasons that, in
the early state of their growth, timber
plantations are benefited so materially
by being manured with organic mat-
ters— a fact well known to those who

portions, in such case the more easily
their roots arc enabled to penetrate in
search of that necessary nourishment,
the more rapid will be their growth.

Previous trenching of the soil also
conduces to the healthy growth of trees
in more ways than one. It renders
them less subject to injury from want

PL A

464

PL A

of moisture in the heats of summer ; i
the atmosphere more freely finds access
to their roots; and not only yields its
watery vapour in the warmest weather
for their service, but its gases, so es-
sential to their very existence, are also
in a similar manner more readily ab-
sorbed.

Draining. — The most neglected, yet
most important, of all the branches of
forest culture, is draining. This ought to
be done thoroughly before planting ; but
if it has been neglected, may be done
at any time, the sooner the better, and
the effects will surprise, in a year or
two, even the most sanguine. I have
seen larch plantations, by draining only,
converted from sickly worthless trees
to thriving valuable woodlands.

Planting. — "Too little attention,"
Mr. C. Johnson justly observes, " is
usually paid by planters in the choice
of their plants, the manner in which
they have been reared, and in the care
of their removal. Instead of attending
to the acquired habits of the tree, it is
a very common practice for the plants
to be bought of some nurseryman who
has reared them in a warm rich bottom,
and then, as a natural consequence,
when the trees are transplanted to a
cold, poor, hungry, exposed soil, a
large proportion of them are sure to
perish, or, if they live, many become
stunted or stag-headed.

" There are other very common er-
rors, of which I have long noticed the
ill effects ; for instance, the want of
care with which the roots of the young
trees are deposited in the earth, and
the unnecessary length of time which
is suffered to elapse between the period
when the plant is taken from the nur-
sery and replanted. I have always
found the good effect of causing the
roots of the young plant to be carefully
arranged and spread out before the
earth is thrown in upon them — the
usually heedless way in which the roots
are thrust into the hole, and perhaps
broken or materially bruised in the act
of treading in the earth upon them, is
of necessity prejudicial to the young
plant; and then, again, a still more
negligent practice, that of ploughing
in the young trees, is too often adopted
on a large scale, by which the plants
are still more hastily deposited in the
soil, and are neither fixed with suffi-
cient firmness in the ground, nor even

placed in an upright position." — Farm.
Enc.

There is certainly no economy in this
hasty mode of planting ; the trees perish
in great numbers; they linger for years
without vigour ; have to be replaced at
a considerable expense; and, in the
mean time, the owners lose all the ad-
vantage which might have been ensured
from a more skilfully obtained rapidity
of growth. In planting on a large
scale, the same pains and care should
be taken as in inserting a shrub in the
parterre.

Pruning. — If care be taken to rub
off ill-placed shoots in the early stages
of a tree's growth, no after-pruning —
no extensive application of the knife
and saw — will be required, except in
case of casual ties. When a large branch
requires amputation, it is best to leave
a stump projecting a full foot from the
stem. The face of the wound should
be towards the ground, and the edges
trimmed smooth with a very sharp
knife.

PLASHING is " a mode of repairing
or modifying a hedge by bending down
a portion of the shoots, cutting them
half through near the ground to render
them more pliable, and twisting them,
among the upright stems, so as to render
the whole more effective as a fence,
and at the same time preserve all the
branches alive. For this purpose the
branches to be plashed, or bent down,
must not be cut more than half through,
in order that a sufficient portion of sap
may rise up from the root to keep alive
the upper part of the branches.

" Where hedges are properly formed
and kept, they can very seldom require
to be plashed." — Farm. Enc.

PLATANTHERA. Thirteen species.
Hardy orchids, except the stove, P.
susannce, and the green-house, P.jiava.
Seed. Loam, peat, and chalk.

PLATANUS. Plane-Tree. Two spe-
cies and three varieties. P. orientalis
does not suffer from the disease which
has of late years attacked one indige-
nous species. Hardy deciduous trees.
Layers, cuttings, and seed. Common
light soil.

PLATYCARPIUM orinocense.
Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

PLATYCHILUM celsianum. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Young cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

P L A

465

PLU

PLATYLOBIUM. Six species.
Greeii-house evergreen shrubs. Seed.
Sandy peat and a little loam.

PLATVLOPHUS trifoUatus. White
ash. Green-house evergreen tree. Ripe
cuttings. Loam and peat.

PLATYSTKMON. Two species.
Hardy annuals. Seed. Sandy loam.

PLATYSTIGMA linear e. Half-hardy
herbaceous. Division. Sandy loam.

PLATYSTYLIS. Three species.
Hardy herbaceous. Division and seed.
Light loam.

PLE.4SURE-GR0UND is a collective
name for that combination of parterres,
lawns, shrubberies, waters, arbours, &c.
yvhich are noticed individually in these
pages. One observation may be ap-
plied to all — let congruity preside over
the whole. It is a great fault to have
any one of those portions of the plea-
sure ground in excess ; and let the
whole be proportioned to the residence.
It is quite as objectionable to be over-
gardened as to be over-housed. Above
all things eschew what has aptly been
termed gingerbread-work. Nothing of-
fends a person of good taste so much
as the divisions and sub-divisions we
are sometimes compelled to gaze on
" with an approving smile."

PL EC T RAN THUS. Six spe-
cies. The annual and biennial species
by seed ; the shrubs and herbaceous by
cuttings. All in rich light loam. They
are all tenants of either the green-house
or stove.

PLECTRITIS congesta. Hardy an-
nual. Seed. Common soil.

PLECTRONIA corymhosa. Green-
house evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

PLKROMA. Four species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings.
Sandv loam and peat.

PLETHORA. See Extravasated Sap.

PLEURANDRA. Seven species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs,
cuttings. Sandy loam and peat

PLEUROTHALLIS. Twenty-three
species. Stove epiphytes. Division.
Wood and moss.

PLOCAMA pendula. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

PLOUGHMAN'S SPIKENARD.
Baccliaris.

PLUM. Prunus domestica.

the London Horticultural Society at
Chiswick. The following limited,
though select number, we extract from
the catalogue of the old Landreth Nur-
series. (See p. 466.)

The descriptions and cuts of a few-
choice kinds may aid those about to
plant, in selecting with advantage.

Fig. 130.

Washington. (Bolmar's Washing-
ton.) (Fig. 130.) " This is an Ameri-
can seedling, accidentally produced in
the city of New York. Its great size
and beautiful appearance, at once intro-
duced it into general culture ; it must
be confessed, there are many of greater
merit, though but few of more prepos-
sessing aspect.

" Skin yellow, or yellowish-green,
when fully matured dotted with red.
Flesh yellow, separating freely from
the stone. The tree is of vigorous
Ripe j growth, hardy, and well suited to our
climate." — Rural Reg.

Columbia. (Fig. 131.) " An admi-
rable plum, well worthy of its name;
raised by Mr. Lawrence, of Hudson,
New York, who has doubly served us
by producing another first rate plum,
' Lawrence's Favorite.' The Columbia
is a free bearer, fruit of the first class,
both as regards size and quality. Skin
purple, abounding in bloom. Flesh
orange. Ripe at Philadelphia close of

Varieties. — One hundred and twenty-
seven are cultivated in the Gardens of August." — Rural Reg
30

PLU

466 PLU

— •

Colour — y yellow; b blue ; r red ;

Plums. — Explanation of Abbreviations
p purple. Size. — l large ; m medium.

* American Seedlings of acknowledged merit

Apricot plum
*Bingham's Egg .
*Boimar's Washington
*Bleeker's Red
Blue Gage .
*Brevoort's Purple
*Bleeker's Gage .
Coe's Golden Drop
*Cooper's Red American
*Columbia
Damson, Yellow
Gage, Yellow
*Gage, Scarlet
*Gage, Schuyler's
*Gage, Prince's Imperia
Goliah .

*Huling's Superb .
*Jefferson

Red Magnum Bonum
White Magnum Bonum
Morocco Plum
Nectarine Plum
Orleans, Red
Orleans, Early
Prune, German
♦VerpLanck's Purple

COLOUR.

FORM.

N

y

round

L

y

oval

L

y

oval

L

r

round

M

r

round

M

P

oval

L

y

round

L

y

oval

L

p

oval

M

p

round

L

y

round

M

y

round

M

r

oval

M

y

round

L

g

oval

M

p

oval

L

y

round

L

y

oval

L

r

oval

L

w

oval

L

P

round

M

P

round

I,

r

round

L

P

round

L

p

oval

L

P

round

M

Fig. 131.— (P. 465.)

August

August

September

August

August

September

August

September

September

August

September

September

September

August

August

August

August

September

August

August

August

August

August

August

September

August

CoE's Golden Drop, r/ Hooker, Lind-
lay, and others. — Coe's Imperial, Coe's
Seedling, &c. (Fig. 132.) " Mr. Coe,
a market gardener of Norfolk, England,
who raised this plum, has perpetuated
his name by association with it. Many
varieties have been subsequently pro-
duced, but few of them have as high
claims to regard, as the Golden Drop —
indeed it has been pronounced superior
to anv late plum cultivated in Britain.

" The fruit is of extra large size,
rich, and in the opinion of competent
judges, not inferior to the celebrated
Green Gage, to approach which in
quality, is usually deemed high merit.
Skin greenish yellow, spotted on the
sunny side with violet and crimson.
Flesh firm, adhering to the stone. The
tree is of vigorous habit, and has proved
well suited to the middle States." —
Rural Reg.

Imperial Gage, (Prmfc's Imperial.)
(Fig. 133.) " This is a seedling from
the Green Gage, raised by the late Mr.
Prince, of Flushing, New York, and
has received much praise. The tree is
of robust habit; fruit larger than the
Green Gage, and of good quality. Ken-

rick cites a single tree at Charlestown,
Mass., the frnit of which, for several
successive years, sold for i^AO to $50.
Downing says it is particularly fitted for
light dry soils, and that on heavy lands
it is often insipid.

" Skin light green, when fully ma-
tured inclining to yellow, with a profu-
sion of bloom. Flesh green, and of a
sprightly flavour. Ripens at Philadel-
phia late in August. It is a liberal
bearer, and may be safely recommended
as a desirable variety." — Rural Reg.

Fig. 134.

Green Gage, of the English and
American gardens. (Fiir. 134.) There
is no plum better known (and none
more worthy of being known) than the
Green Gage, which derived its name

PLU

468

PLU

from a family of the name of Gage who the best plum known in England. The
obtained it in France, where it is popu- size is below medium. Skin green,
lariy termed the Reine Claude, (or inclining to yellow when fully ripe, and
Queen Claude,) after the wife of Francis occasionally marbled with red. Ripe
I. Those qualified to give an opinion j middle of August,
on the subject, have declared it to be

Fig. 135

.Teffebson. (Fig. 135.) This escel-
Iciit variety is the product of the late
Judge Buel of Albany, so long and so
favourably associated with the " Culti-
vator." Mr. Downing, whose opinion
lias great weight with us, says, if he
■were asked which he thought' the most
desirable and the most beautiful of all
dessert plums, he should undoubtedly
give the name of this new variety. He
thinks it, when fully ripe, nearly if not
quite equal in flavour to the Green Gage
— '-it is as large as the Washington,
more richly and deeply coloured, being
dark yellow, uniformly and handsomely
marked with a fine ruddy cheek. It is
about ten days or a fortnight later than
the Washington, ripening the last of Au-
gust, when it has the rare quality of hang-
ing long on the tree, gradually improv-
ing in flavour." — "Fruits of America.'-

Magnum Bonum, (Yellow Egg.) (Fig.

1 36.) These are the two popular names
for a variety very generally cultivated
in France and England, and known to
a considerable extent in the gardens of
our sea-board. It is an attractive variety,
and though by no means equal in point
of quality to many less prepossessing,
is nevertheless in high repute. Skin
yellow. Flesh closely united to the
stone, sub-acid until dead ripe, when
the flavour is highest. It is an excel-
lent preserving plum — its large size
adding to its merit in that particular.

Propagation by Seed. — This mode is
adopted for raising stocks and new
varieties. For the latter purpose cross-
impregnation has been successively
pursued, attention being paid to the
suggestions ofl^ered under the title Hy-
bridizing. Sow in October, in rich
light loam, in drills twelve inches apart
and two inches deep, when two-year

PLU

469

PLU

old buds may be taken from them and which would be destroyed by sliorten-

inserted on older trees early, to ascer-

So that, after haviiirr shortened

tain the value of the fruit. At two years the first and second year's shoots occa-
old they are also fit to be stocks for sionally as above, and thereby procured

budding or graftin

Grafting and Budding. — The former
is to be done in July or March, and the
latter in July or August.

Suckers. — Damsons and bullaces are
usually raised in this mode, without
grafting or budding

a proper set of lower horizontals, to
give the head its first form, let the
whole then be trained in entire, about
four, five, or six inches asunder; and,
according as the trees shoot every sum-
mer, train in a necessary supply of the
regular shoots to fill the wall, &c.; at

Layers of the young wood may be the same time retrench superfluities and
made at any time between November irregular wood — still at full length ;it
and March. In twelve months they are the above distance. For all plums bear
established, and maybe separated from principally upon spurs half an inch or
the parent. | an inch long, arising from the sides of

" Planting and Culture. — The season the branches, from one or two to many
for planting all the sorts of plum-trees, years old. When trained, always at
is anytime in open weather, from the ' full length; but, if shortened,' they
fall of the leaf until the approach ofl would throw out a multiplicity of nsc-

vegetation in spring

" The trees of all the varieties will
succeed in any common soil, and in any
open exposure. Those for walls should
generally have an east or southwest
wall for some of the choicest sorts ; and

less wood, and hardly any fruit-spnrs.

" The wall and espalier plum-trees
should be pruned every summer and
winter.

" Standard plum-trees may be trained
both as full standards and half-stand-

some may also be planted against a ; ards, budding or grafting the former
north wall, to furnish some late fruit; ' six feet high, and the latter only three
and those for espaliers may be planted , or four; or both kinds may be worked
around any of the open quarters, as low in the stock, and the first shoot

may also the standards.

trained to those heights for a stem,

" Plant the wall and espalier trees then let them branch away and form a
eighteen feet distance; though if the head. These standards may be planted
walls, &c., are rather low, twenty feet both in the garden and orchard, at from
distance will be requisite, that, in de- • about twenty to thirty feet distance." —
fault of a proper height of walling, there j Abercrombie.

may be more scope to train the branches
liorizontally. If the trees thus planted
are quite young, being only of one
year's shoot from the grafting or bud-
ding, they should, in March, be headed
down to four or five eyes, to force out
lower horizontals in the ensuing sum-
mer, which, according as they advance
in length, train them in horizontally at

Forcing. — To obtain an early crop,
in March or April, trees planted in
large tubs are to be preferred ; but for
the general crop, in May or June, the
trees are best planted in the borders of
the stove. Mr. Loudon says that : —

" For a crop to ripen in the second
week in May, the house must be co-
vered in early in January, commencing

full length, unless you would forward a \ with a temperature of 42^ of Fahrenheit

further supply of lower branches as fast for the first fortnight; after which the

as possible, when you may pinch the heat may be gradually raised to .52', at

young shoot, in May, down to a few which it may continue until the flowers

eyes. Each will throw out several late- make their appearance. During this

rals the same year, which train also time frequent changes of air must be

horizontally at full length during the admitted to strengthen the bloom ; and

summer's growth; and in winter pruning the crop will be rendered more certain

cut not only any fore-right and back
shoots, but train in all the regular ones
at full length ; for the branches of these
trees must be shortened only occasion-
ally, to procure wood to fill vacancies;
because the branches always form fruit

by keeping the trees in blossom, as long
as possible, by ligJit shading where ne-
cessary; and when the petals begin to
fall, gentle dews may be raised from the
surface of the mould. As the fruit
forms, the thermometer should be raised

spurs first towards their extreme parts, to 5S'^. This must be done gradually,

PLU

470

PO I

as the consequence of a rapid rise may
be a casting of the fruit. During the
progress of shooting great care must he
taken against sudden variations of the
temperature, water very sparingly used,
and every check, by fumigation, be
given to the various insects, which will
be particularly active at this period.

" When the fruit is safely stoned, a
moderate dressing of rotten manure
may be spread on the surface of the
mould, the heat increased to CS*^, and
a more liberal supply of water given.

" After the fruit has obtained a full

house evergreen shrub. Young cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

PODOSPERMUM. Nine species.
Hardy herbaceous, biennial, and an-
nual. The first is increased by divi-
sion, and all by seed. Common soil.

PffiCILOCAMPA populi. December
Moth, is found in this month in orchards
sticking against the trunks of trees.
The wings are about an inch and a
quarter broad, and of a chestnut brown
in colour: on the upper pair there is a
pair of incurved bands, and a wavy one
near the centre ; the wings have also a

size, and approaches maturity, air may grayish or brownish fringe. The lower
be freely admitted, and water should i pair are brown. The caterpillar is
be given in less quantities, and finally ! ashy gray at the sides, and rather dark-
discontinued a few days before gather- j er on the back, and it has four red

ing." — Enc. Gard.

PLUMBAGO. Eleven species.
Some hardy herbaceous, others stove
and green-house evergreen shrubs and
climbers. P. capensis produces a good
effect when plunged or planted out on
a rich border during summer. P. rhom-
bifolia is a stove annual ; this is propa-

spots on each segment ; at first these
caterpillars are gregarious, under a
silken tent, from which they issue at
night to feed, but after a little time they
become solitary. They feed on various
kinds of fruit trees in the early part of
the summer, and when full grown, they
spin a silken case in which they change

gated by seed, the others by cuttings, I the pups. The December Moth is not

and all in common soil

PLUMIERIA. Twenty-two species.
Stove evergreen shrubs and trees.
Large cuttings, slightly dried. Sandy
ioam, and a little peat.

POCOCKIA cretica. Hardy annual.
Seed. Common soil.

PODALYRIA. Thirteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs, Cut-
tmgs. Sandy loam and peat.

PODANTHE. Seven species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings in spring,
slightly dried. Sandy loam and lime
rubbish.

PODANTHUS mitiqui. Hardy ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat.

POD-FERN. Ellobocarpus.

POD 0 CARPUS. Eleven spe-
cies. Green-house and stove evergreen
trees. P. chinensis, P.macrophyllus, P.
nurifer, and P. verticillatus, are quite

one of the most injurious to fruit trees,
but still, in localities where it is found
in tolerable abundance, the caterpillars
do considerable damage to the leaves.
Hand picking when the caterpillars are
living in society, is the best means of
diminishing them. — Gard. Chron.

POET'S CASSIA. Osyris.

POGONIA. Three species. Hardy
orchids. Offsets. Sandy peat.

POGOSTEMON plectranthoides.
Stove evergreen shrub. Young cut-
tings. Rich sandy loam.

POINCL\NA. Five species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Seed and cuttings.
Rich light soil.

POINSETTIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings of previ-
ous year's shoots, slightly dried. Rich
sandy loam. Of these plants the most
beautiful is P. pulcherrina. On the

hardy, if grown in a light-soiled border, cultivation of this we have the foUow-
sheltered from the north and east, and ing directions from Mr. W. Tillery, the

well drained. Cuttings
and a little peat.

PODOLEPIS. Five species. Hardy
herbaceous. Seed and division. Sandy
loam and peat.

PODOLOBIUM. Five species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. P.
scandens is a climber. Young cuttings.
Sandv loam and peat.

Light loam, , gardener at Welbeck ;

" Raise the plants from single eyes,
(like vines,) from the hard ripened wood
of last year, and re-pot them in sandy
loam and leaf-mould ; keeping them in
a cucumber-frame, and then in a low
stove, as near the glass as possible.
They do pretty near the glass and not
drawn, and then put into the stove in

PODOPTERUS riiexicanus. Green- , September, watering freely when in

PO I

471

POI

flower. Old plants that have been cut | that pruning knives and hands washed
down, never have the flora! leaves as in a tank after they have been em-
large as a young plant raised from eyes ployed upon some of the exotics, will

or cuttings with one stem.

The following additional instructions

destroy the fish it contains. Hippo-
mane bigiandulosa, the Manchineel,

are given by Mr. D. Beaton, gardener the Tanghin, Sapium laurocerasus, and

to Sir W. Middleton, at Shrubland : —

" As an additional means of improv-
ing the size of the flowers, a strong
healthy plant, not less than two years
old, should be kept to propagate from
bv eves. This plant should be kept in

Cainocladia dentata, are equally dele-
terious to man. Gardeners who have
merely rubbed the leaves of the latter
between their fingers, have had swol-
len bodies and temporary blindness.
Wounds from pruning knives smeared

the stove all summer, encouraged dur- with the juices of such plants, are like

inc its growth by all safe stimuli, and those from poisoned arrows.

ha've onfy two or three of its strongest POISONS. Soils containing obnox-

shoots allowed to remain. When these ious ingredients are certain introducers

shoots have nearly done growing, cut of disease and premature death. An

otr their tops, that'the plant may throw excess of oxide of iron, as when the

all the strength of its vital energies into roots of the apple and pear get into an

those eyes destined for your next year's irony red gravelly subsoil, always causes

plants.

canker to supervene. In the neighbour-

When the young wood ripens, al- hood of copper-smelting furnaces, not
low the plant to go gradually to rest, only are cattle subjected to swollen
and when you cease watering it, place joints and other unusual diseases, cans-
it in a dry "part of the stove; should it ing decrepitude and death, but the
offer to vegetate too soon in spring, plants also around are subject to sud-
reniove it to a dry place in the green- den visitations, to irregular growths,
house to keep it back. About the be- and to unwarned destruction; and a
ginning or middle of April will be quite , crop once vigorous will suddenly j.vith-

time enoush to begin to propagate it
At that time take the most prominent
eyes from the ripest portion of the
branches.

Cut the old plant down to the form-

er as if swept over by a blast. There
is no doubt of this arising from the salts
of copper, which impregnate the soil
irregularly, as the winds may have
borne them sublimed from the furnaces,

er year's wood, shake off" all the soil and the experiments of Sennebier have
from its roots, cut away all decayed shown that of all salts those of copper
roots, and shorten the strongest ones; are the most fatal to plants. That they
repot it in as small a pot as you can put , can be poisoned, and by many of those

its roots into, and place it in bottom
heat; treat it with due care as in the
former season, and for the same pur-
pose."— Gnrd. Chron.

Aphelandra cristata maybe managed
the same wav, and no plant will more
amply repay the care and attention be-
stowed on it.

POIRETIA srandenit. Stove ever-
green climber. Young cuttings. Loam
and peat.

substances, narcotic as well as corro-
sive, which are fiital to animals, has
been shown by the experiments of M.
F. Marcet.

The metallic poisons being absorbed,
are conveyed to the different parts of
the plant, and alter or destroy its tissue.
The vegetable poisons, such as opium,
strychnia, prussic acid, belladonna, al-
cotiol, and oxalic acid, which act fatally
upon the nervous system of animals.

POISON-BULB. Brunsvigia toxica- also cause the death of plants.

ria, and Crinum a.iiaticum. The poisonous substance is absorbed

POISON-NUT. Strychnos mix into the plant's system, and proves in-

vomica. jurious when merely applied to its

POISON-OAK. Rhus toxicodendron, liranchfta or stem, almost as much as

POISONOUS PLANTS. Gardeners if placed in contact with the roots,

should be much more careful than they Ulcerations and canker are exasperated

usually are in bandlinsi the plants they if lime be put upon the wounds, and

cultivate, for many of them have deadly when Dr. Hales made a golden rennet

qualities. M. Neumann, chief gardener apple absorb a quart of camphorated

of the Paris Jardin des Plantes, says spirits of wine through one of its

PO I

472

POL

brandies, one-ha]f of the tree was de-
stroyed.— Princ. of Gardening.

POIVREA. Six species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Young cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

POLANISIA. Five species. Hardy
annuals. Seed. Sheltered, light rich
loam.

POLEMONIUM. Twelve
Hardy herbaceous. Division
loam.

POLIANTHES. Tuberose
species. Green-house bulbs,
imported. Sandy loam and leaf-mould.

POLYANTHUS. Primula vulgaris,
var. polyantha

species.
. Light

Two

Bulbs

Nicholson's Ranger.

Nonsuch.

King.

Sir Sidney Smith.
Telegraph (Head's).
Turner's Emperor Buonaparte.
Princess.

Timm's Defiance and Yorkshire Re-
gent.

Characteristics of Excellence, are
thus enumerated by Dr. Lindiey : —

" The pip of the Polyanthus should

be large, and the nearer the outline

approaches a circle the better ; it

should be free from any unevenness,

A florist's flower much j and lie perfectly flat; the edge must be

esteemed in England ; in the United
States but little attention has been paid
to it.

Varieties. — Mr. Slater, florist, of
Manchester, gives the following lists: —

FIRST CLASS.

Barrow's Dutchess of Sutherland.
Buck's George the P'ourth.
Bullock's Lancer.
Clegg's Lord Crewe, alias George

Canning.
Collier's Princess Royal.
Cox's Regent.
Crownshaw's Invincible.
Eckersley's Jolly Dragoon.
Gibbon's Sovereign.
General Bolivar.
Gond's Independent.
Hetcher's Defiance.
Hilton's President.
Hufton's Earl Grey, alias Clegg's Lord

John Russell.
Hufton's Lord Rancliffe, alias Clegg's

Prince of Orange, and Clegg's Golden

Hero.
Hufton's Lord Lincoln.
Maude's Beauty of England.
Nicholson's Bang Europe.
Ollier's Beauty of Over.
Pearson's Alexander.
Saunders's Cheshire Favourite.
Wood's Espartero.

SECOND CLASS.

Beauty of Coven.
Buckley's Squire Starkie.
Burnard's Formosa.
Dew's Britannia.
Faulkner's Black Prince.
Fillingham's Tantarara.
Queen's Earl Fitzvvilliam.
Hepworth's Elizabeth.
Jolly Sailor.

smooth, and the divisions in the corolla,
which form it into heart-shaped seg-
ments, should reach the eye but not
cut into it. The segments should be
well rounded, making the divisions be-
tween them small and shallow. The
tube must be of a fine yellow, round,
clearly defined, well filled with an-
thers, and terminating in a narrow
ridge raised slightly above the surface
of the eye.

" The eye should be of a bright rich
yellow colour, of a uniform width
round the tube. The ground colour
must be entire, free from specks or
blemishes, of a dark or rich crimson,
not paler at the edges, and uniform in
every division. The edge should form
a narrow well defined riin of yellow,
perfectly regular, bordering each seg-
ment, and passing down the centre of
each division to the eye.

" It is essential that the edge and
the eye be of a uniform yellow. These
qualities in the pips, and the flowers
forming a compact truss, standing well
above the foliage on a firm upright
stem, will constitute perfection in the
polyanthus." — Card. Cliron.

Propagation by Seed. — Dr. Lindiey
says, " during February sow in pots in
a light and moderately rich soil, and
give the seed, when sown, a slight
covering of sifted soil ; the pans should
then be placed under hand-glasses. It
is better to raise them without bottom-
heat, as the young plants are apt to
damp off". As soon as the seeds begin
to vegetate, air should be given ; and
as they increase in size, care must be
taken to keep away slugs. When the
sun has much power, it will be advisa-
ble to remove the pans to an east or
north aspect, to prevent them from be-

POL

473

PON

coming too dry. In August they will should occasionally be sprinkled over

be ready for transplanting." — Card.
Chron.

General Culture. — This is detailed
by that most successful floriculturist,
Dr. Horner, of Hull, and from his di-
rections are taken the following ex-
tracts : —

" Situation and Soil. — A free and
pure air is necessary for its vigorous
growth. It should alway be grown in

the foliage (avoiding the flowers) ; and
the smaller and central pips should be
thinned out, that the truss or umbel of
flowers may have a uniform and un-
crowded appearance. When the bloom
is over, the plants should be turned out
of their pots into the border from
whence they were taken ; here they
must remain without further care, ex-
cept an occasional watering, till the

a bed or open border, and in one which end of July, when they should be taken

has an eastern aspect. It is most im-
patient of heat and drought, but de-
lights in a cool, or rather moist and
shaded locality, where it can enjoy
about two hours of the morning sun. It
thrives best in a retentive soii from a
rich old pasture, to which has been
added about the sixth part of cow
manure, two or three years old, and
the same quantity of leaf-mould. The

up, the soil crumbled from their roots,
and those which present two or more
heads divided gently with the fingers,
and prepared and planted as before de-
scribed."— Card. Chron.

P O L Y B O T R Y A. Three species.
Stove ferns. Division and seed. Sandy
peat and turf.

POLYGALA. Forty-four species.
Herbaceous, shrubby, and annual. All

natural soil of the garden should be hardy or green-house, except the stove

dug out to the depth of a foot, and the
space filled up with the above, three
months previously to planting them,
that the bed may have become settled
before it is required for the plants.

" Planting. — The proper time is at
the end of July, not later. Shorten the I

annuals, P.pnniculata and P. umhellata.
Division, cuttings or seed. Sandy peat
and a little loam.

POLYGON ATUM. Thirteen species.
Hardy herbaceous. Seed and division.
Light rich loam.

POLYGONUM. Forty-eight species.

main or tap-root, as it is called, to i Chiefly hardy herbaceous or annual
wiihin about half an inch of the leaves, plants, some being aquatics and trailers,
that a few of the vigorous young fibrous A few require the shelter of the green-
roots only may he retained ; with a house. Seed and division. Light rich
small trowel make a hole in the soil loam.

surticiently deep that the plant may POLYPODIUM. Sixty-six species,
have the very crown of the main root Chiefly stove ferns. Division and seed.

Light loam and peat.

POLYPODY. Polypodium.
POLYPTERIS integrifolia. Hardy
annual. Seed. Light rich loam.

POLYSPORA axillaris. Stove ever-
green shrub. Unripe cuttings. Light
loam and peat.

POLYSTACHYA. Seven species.

covered at least one inch with the soil

" It is of the utmost importance that ;
the polyanthus should be thus deep |
set; for the young roots always ema-
nate from the very top of the main
root, and throw themselves out for the
most part, if a somewhat curved or hori-
zontal method of planting is adopted.
ILiving well watered the bed, the

plants require no more care whatever, ] Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood and

except being kept clean. They should
be lel\ entirely without covering or pro- ]
tection in the winter. j

"Blooming, i^c. — In spring, just
when the pips are about to expand, if
wanted for the purpose of exhibition,

moss.

POMADERRIS. Sixteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

POMAX hirta. Green-house ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat and

or to ornament the stage or cool green- loam,

house, they may be taken up with a POMBALIA ;7!//>a. Stove herbaceous,

moderately-sized ball of earth, and put Seed and young cuttings. Sandy loam

into common auricula pots, for they and peat.

bear this removal without the slightest:
injury or apparent check. Water must
now be supplied rather freely, and

POMEGRANATE. Punica.

POMl'lOX. See Gourd.

P t) N C E L E T I A sprengeiloides.

PON

474

PON

Green-house evergreen shrub. Young
cuttings. Sandy peat.

PONDS, are reservoirs of water dug
out of the soil, and made retentive by
puddling with clay their bottoms and
sides.

Puddling is necessary in almost all
instances and the mode of proceeding

and marked out, it will then be neces-
sary to form a second or outer mark,
indicating the space required for the
wall or side puddle, and about three
feet is the proper space to allow for
this — the puddle requiring about two
feet, and the facing which requires to
be laid upon the puddle ought to be

is thus detailed by Mr. Marnock, in the } about a foot more, making together
United Gardeners'' Journal. When the t three feet. Ponds may be made very
excavacation is formed, or partially so, I ornamental, and for suitable suggestions

the bottom puddle near the outer edge
is formed, and upon this is raised the
upright or side puddle ; and as this
proceeds the ordinary clay or earth is
raised at the same time, and by this
means the upright puddle is retained in
its place ; and ultimately the sides, being
formed in a sloping direction, admit of
being covered with gravel or sand, and
may be walked upon, or stakes may be
driven to a considerable depth without
reaching the puddle or in any way in-
juring it; this can never be the case if

on this point, see Water.

PONGAMIA. Four species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

PONTEDERA. Seven species.
Stove aquatics, except the hardy P.
ccErulea. Division. Rich light loam
in water.

PONTHIEVA. Two species. Stove
orchids. Division. Sundy loam and
peat.

PONTIA. A genus of butterflies of
which the following one is most ob-

the puddle, as is sometimes done, be I noxious to the gardener:-

laid upon the sloping side of the pond
The sides may slope rapidly, or the re-
verse : if the slope be considerable,
sand or gravel to give a clean appear-
ance will be the more likely to be re-
tained upon the facing; plants can be
more easily fixed and cultivated; gold-
fish also find in these shallow gravelly
parts under the leaves of the plants
suitable places to deposit their spawn,
and without this they are seldom found
to breed. Ponds made in this way may
be of any convenient size, from a couple
of yards upwards to as many acres.
The following is the section of a pond

Fig. 137.

P. hrassicie, the large white cabbage
butterfly is thus described by Mr. Kol-
lar : — " The wings are white ; the up-
per wings with broad black tips, and
the female has two black spots on the
middle. The under side of the under
wings is light yellow. Breadth, when
expanded, two inches. It appears from
May to October. The caterpillar is
bluish-green, thinly haired, and sprin-
kled with black dots, having a yellow
stripe on the back, and the same on the
sides. These caterpillars are found,
throughout the summer and autumn,
on all the sorts of cabbage, on horse-
radish, radishes, mustard, and similar
plants, as well as on water -cresses.
The pupae are yellowish-green, with
black dots, with a point on the head,
and five on the back. The best way to
destroy them is picking off and killing
the caterpillars, as well as the pupa;,
as far as it is possible; the latter are
found attached to adjacent trees, hedges,
and walls. But care must be taken not
to destroy those pupa; which have a
brown appearance; because they are
full of the larva! of ichneumons, and
other allied parasites, which are the

thus formed : a indicates the surface of

the ground at the edge of the water;

b, the puddle ; c, the facing to preserve great scourge of these caterpillars." —

the puddle from injury ; d, the water; \ Kollar.

P. rapm

Small White Cabbage But-
ordinary bottom. When a small pond i terfly. The following extracts are from
of this kind is to be made, and the ex- 1 the same good authority : — " This But-

c, the surface of the latter ; and /, the !

ordinary bottom. When a small pond

of this kind is to be made, and the ex- 1

tent of the surface is determined upon i terfly resembles the foregoing, but is

POP

475

POT

one half smaller ; antl the black tinjie best ; Soden's Early Oxford; Fox's
at the points of the nper wini^s is faint- I Seedling, perhaps the best; Early
er, and not visible on the outer edge. INIaniy; Karly Mule.
The time of appearance is the same as; Earliest for general cultivation : —
of the former. Early Kidney; Nonsuch ; Early Shaw;

" The caterpillar is of a dull green, Gold Finder ; Taylor's F'orty-fold.
with fine white minute hairs, a yellow | For main crops, the varieties are
stripe on the back, and vellow spots on ' ranged in this class, according to their
the sides, on a pale ground. In some forwardness in ripening : —
years it is very injurious to the cabbage Early Champion; Leathercoat ; Ox
and turnip plants; it also infests the Noble ; Red Nose Kidney, very good ;
mignionette, which it strips entirely of Large Kidney ; Irish Cup ; Bread Fruit,
its leaves. It is very difficult to be dis- the best; Red Streak, or Lancashire
covered from its colour. The pupa is I'ink Eye; Black Skin; Purple; Red
yellowish or greenish-gray, with three Apple; Rough Red. — All these are
yellow stripes. Like the former kind, English varieties. At Philadelphia,
it is found attached to trees, hedges," where we write, but two sorts are

&c. — KoUar.
POPLAR. Populus.
POPPY. Papaver.
POPULUS. Poplar. Fifteen species.

extensively grown, viz., Mercer and
Foxite; the former has had great popu-
larity for both quality and product —
the latter, though not productive, is the

evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings,
and peat.

PORTIIESIA. See Bombyx.

PORTLANDIA. Two species,
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings,
loam and peat.

and many varieties. Hardy deciduous best we have ever seen grown in this

trees. Cuttings and layers. Light loam, I country.

near flowing water. i Soil and Situation. — No inhabitant of

poll \y!Jivoluf)i lis. Stove evergreen the garden varies more in quality in
twiner. Seed. Loam and peat. different gardens than the potato ; for a

PORANTUER.\ ericifolia. Green- variety will have a strong unpleasant
house evergreen shrub. Young cuttings, flavour in one soil, that has a sweet
Sandy loam and peat. agreeable one in another. In a heavy

VOKhW.lX X hy^rometrira. Stove wet soil, or a rank black loam, though

Loam the crop is often fine and abundant, it

is scarcely ever palatable. Silicious

I soils, even approaching to gravel.

Stove though in these last the tubers are

Sandy usually corroded or scabby, are always

to be planted in preference to the above.

PORTUGAL LAUREL. Cerasus lu- A dry, friable, fresh, and moderately
sitanica. This is a beautiful evergreen rich soil, is unquestionably the best for
shrub, not sufficiently hardy to with- ; every variety of the potato ; andforthe
stand the winters of the middle states — earliest crop, it may be with advantage
farther south it would be highly useful more silicious than for the main ones,
as a decoration to the garden and lawn ; The black-skinned and rough-red,
during winter. thrive better than any other in moist

PORTULACA. Purslane. Fifteen strong cold soils,
species. Stove, green-house, and hardv If manure is necessary, whatever
annuals. Seed. Light loam. P. g-ranrfi- , may be the one employed, it is better
flora is a tuberous perennial, increased | spread regularly over the surface pre-
by offsets. See Purslane. [ vious to digging, than put into the holes

PORTULACARIA afra. African with the sets, or spread in the trench
Purslane Tree. Green-house evergreen vvhen they are so planted,
shrub. Young cuttings. Sandy loam. Stable dung is perhaps the best of all
well drained. factitious manures ; sea-weed is a very

POSOQUERIA. Two species. Stove beneficial addition to the soil ; and so
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and is salt,
peat. I Coal-ashes and sea-sand are applied

POTATO. Solanum tuberosum ] with great benefit to retentive soils.

Varieties, for forcing or first crop, in The situation must always be open,
the open ground : — Walnut-leaved Kid- Time and Modes of Propagation. — It
ney, earliest ; Broughton Dwarf; Early is propagated in general by the tubers,
Warwick; Ash-leaved Kidney, white, | though the shoots arising from thence.

POT

476

POT

and layers of the stalks, may be em-
ployed. New varieties are raised from
seed.

Planting in the open ground must be
done with reference to the latitude in

earth near the fire. If the earth is kept
moist, the crown-eye will be in a state
of vegetation in five or six days.

To obtain early crops, where tubers
are rapidly formed, large sets must be

which we live — in Pennsylvania, for in- employed. In these one or two eyes
stance, those intended for the earliest j at most should be allowed to remain.

crop may be planted in March; for a
succession, in April ; and for the main
winter supply, in May. Formerly large
crops were produced from plantations
made in July, but latterly they have not
succeeded.

Sets. — The next point for considera-

If the sets are placed with their lead-
ing buds upwards, few and very strong
early stems will be produced; but, if
the position is reversed, many weak
and later shoots will arise, and not only
the earliness but the quality of the pro-
duce be depreciated. For the earliest

tion is the preparation of the sets. Some crops there are likewise several modes
gardeners recommend the largest pota- ! of assisting the forward vegetation of
toes to be planted whole; others, that I the sets. These should be prepared
they be sliced into pieces containing by removing every eye but one or two ;
two or three eyes ; a third set, to cut [ and being placed" in a layer in a wojm
the large tubers directly in half; a room, where air and light can be freely
fourth, the employment of the shoots admitted, with a covering of straw,
only, which are thrown out if potatoes ! they soon emit shoots, which must be

are kept in a warm damp situation ; and
a fifth, that merely the parings be em-
ployed. Cuttings of the stalks, five or
six inches in length, or rooted suckers,
will be productive, if planted during
showery weather, in May or June ; and
during this last month, or early in July,
it may be propagated by layers, which
are formed by pegging down the young
stalks when about twelve inches long,
they being covered three inches thick
with mould at a joint. These three
last modes are practised more fro

strengthened by exposure to the air and
light as much as possible, by taking off
the cover without injuring them. Dur-
ing cold weather, and at night, it must
always be removed : the leaves soon
become green and tolerably hardy. In
early spring they are planted out, the
leaves being left just above the surface,
and a covering of litter afforded every
night until the danger of frost is passed.
The only modification of this plan
that is adopted in Cheshire, where they
are celebrated for the early production

curiosity than utility, whilst at the same j of potatoes, is, that they employ chaff
time, none of the first five mentioned ! or sand for a covering instead of straw,
plans can be individually followed to Planting. — In garden culture the
advantage without modification. For ' most preferable mode of inserting them

the main crops, it is evident from ex-
periment that moderate sized whole
potatoes are the best, from which all
but two eyes have been removed ; but
especially having the crown, which is a
congery of small eyes, first removed ;

is with the dibble, in rows; for the
early crops twelve inches apart each
way, and for the main ones eighteen
inches. The sets should be placed six
inches beneath the surface. The po-
tato-dibble is the best instrument that

for from these proceed little spindled can be employed ; the earth being after

stalks, which are comparatively worth
less, and injure the main stem.

For the early crops almost the very
contrary to the above is the most ad-
vantageous to be practised. The set
should have the crown-eye, which is
one growing in the centre of the con

wards raked or struck in with the spade,
and the soil not trampled u[)on but
planted as sufficient is dug for receiving
a row.

The compartment may be laid out
level and undivided if the soil is light ;
but if heavy soil is necessarily em-

gery of small ones above mentioned, ! ployed, it is best disposed in beds six
preserved. Some potatoes have two or eight feet wide. If the staple of the
such eyes, but the generality only one. ' soil be good throughout, the alleys may
This is always the most prompt to ve- ] be two feet wide and dug deep, other-
getate, and if not known by this de- wise they must be made broader, and
scription, may be evinced by placing only one spit taken out, the earth re-
iwo or three potatoes in a pan of moist ' moved being employed to raise the

POT

477

POT

beds, which should not be more than dug round the heap, and well smootli-
four parallel ridges, and the set8 in- ened with the back of the spade,
sertcd along their summits. [ Potatoes should not be stored until

Hoeing. — As soon as the plants are perfectly dry, nor unless free from
well to be distinguished, they should be earth, refuse, and wounded tubers. It
perfectly freed from weeds; and of the is a good practice to keep a hole open
early crops the earth drawn round each on four dilTerent sides of the heap,
plant, so as to form a cup as a shelter entirely through the earth and straw,
from the cold winds, which are their for a week or two after the heap is
chief enemy at that season. But the formed ; for in proportion to its size it
main crops should not be earthed up, ajways ferments, and these orifices
for earthing up diminishes the crop one [ allow the escape of the vapours and
fourth. Throughout their growth they ' perfect the drying,
should be kept perfectly clear of weeds. | To raise Varieties. — A variety of the

It is very injurious to mow off the I potato is generally considered to con-
tops of the plants, as is sometimes re- I tinue about fourteen years in perfection,
commended. The foliage ought to be after which period it gradually loses its
kept as uninjured as possible, unless, good qualities, becoming of inferior
as sometimes occurs on fresh ground, : llavour and unproductive; fresh va-
tlie plants are of gigantic luxuriance, rieties must, therefore, be occasionally
and even then the stems should be only i raised from seed. The berries, or ap-
moderately shortened. It is, however, pies, of the old stock, having hung in a
of considerable advantage to remove warm room throughout the winter, the
the fruit-stalks and immature flowers as seed must be obtained from them by
soon as they appear, unless the stems washing away the pulp during Februarv.
are very luxuriant. A potato plant This is thoroughly dried and kept until
continues to form tubers until the i .'\pril, and then sown in drills about
flowers appear, after which it is em- | half an inch deep and six inches apart,
ployed in ripening those already formed, in a rich light soil. The plants are

The very earliest crops will be in weeded, and earth drawn up to their
production in July, or perhaps towards stems, when an inch in height: as soon
the end of June, and may thence be as this has increased to three inches
taken up as wanted until October, at they are moved into a similar soil, in
the close of which month, or during rows, sixteen inches apart each way,
November, they may be entirely dug up ' and during their future growth earthed
and stored. In storing, the best mode | up two or three times. Being finally
is to place them in layers, alternately 1 taken up, in the course of October, they
with dry coal-ashes, in a shed. But a must be preserved until the following
still belter plan, usually, is to allow spring, to be then replanted and treated
them to remain where grown, moulding as for store crops,
the rows over six inches deep, and
taking them up a week before wanted.
The best instrument with which they
can be dug up is a three-fiat-pronged
fork, each row being cleared regularly
away.

The tubers should be sorted at the
time of taking them up ; for, as the

Some gardeners sow in a moderate
hot-bed, very thin, in drills the same
depth as above, and nine inches apart.
Water is frequently and plentifully
poured between the rows, and earth
drawn about the stems of the seedlings
until they are a few inches in height.
They are then transplanted into rows,
largest keep the best, they alone should water given, and earthing performed as

be stored, whilst the smaller ones are
first made use of. The most common
mode of preserving them, throughout
the winter, is in heaps or clamps some-
times called pyeing. The heaps are
laid in pyramidal form on a bed of straw,
and enveloped with a covering, six or
eight inches thick, of the same ma-
terial, laid even as in thatching, and the
whole inclosed with earth, in a conical
form, a foot thick, taken from a trench

usual. The only additional advantage
of this plan is, that as the seed can be
sown earlier, the tubers attain a rather
larger size the first year.

It is to be remarked, that the tubers
of every seedling should be kept sepa-
rate, as scarcely two will be of a similar
habit and quality, whilst many will be
comparatively worthless, and but few
of particular excellence. If the seed
is obtained from a red potato that flow-

POT

478

POT

ered in the neigbourhood of a white-
tubered variety, the seedlings, in all
probability, will in part resemble both
their parents ; but seldom or never does
a seedling resemble exactly the original
stock. At all events, only such should
be preserved as are recommended by
their superior earliness, size, flavour, or
fertility. "

The early varieties — if planted on
little heaps of earth, with a stake in the
middle, and when the plants are about
four inches hisrh, being secured to the
stakes with shreds and nails, and tlie
earth washed away from the bases of
the stems by means of a strong current
of water, so that the fibrous roots only
enter the soil — will blossom and perfect
seed.

Forcing. — The season for forcing is
from the close of December to the
middle of February, in a hot-bed, and
at the close of this last month on a
warm border, with the temporary shelter
of a frame. The hot-bed is only re-
quired to produce a moderate heat.
The earth should be six inches deep,
and the sets planted in rows six or eight
apart, as the tubers are not required
to be large. The temperature ought
never to sink below Go*^, nor rise above
80°.

The rank steam arising from ferment-
ing dung is undoubtedly injurious to the
roots of potatoes ; and to obviate this
they may be planted in narrow beds,
and the dung applied in trenches on
each side ; or all the earth from an old
cucumber or other hot-bed being re-
moved, and an inch in depth of tVesh
being added, put on the sets, and cover
them with four inches of mould. At
the end of five days the sides of the old
dung may be cut away in an inward
slanting direction, about fifteen inches
from the perpendicular, and strong lin-
ings of hot dung applied.

If the tubers are desired to be brought
to maturity as speedily as possible, in-
stead of being planted in the earth of
the bed, each set should be placed in a
pot about six inches in diameter; but
the produce in pots is smaller. But
young potatoes may be obtained in the
winter, according to the following plan,
without forcing : —

Plant some late kinds, unsprouted, in
a dry rich border, in July, and again in i
August, in rows two feet apart. They
will produce new potatoes in October, I

and in succession until April, if covered
with leaves or straw to exclude frost.
If old potatoes are placed in dry earth,
in a shed, during August, they will emit
young tubers in December.

Preparation of Sets for forcing. —
They should be of the early varieties.
To assist their forward vegetation, plant
a single potato in each of the pots in-
tended for forcing, during January.
Then place in the ground, and protect
with litter from the frost. This renders
them very excitable by heat; and, con-
sequently, when plunged in a hot-bed,
they vegetate rapidly and generate tu-
bers. The seed potatoes are equally
assisted, and with less trouble, if placed
in a cellar just in contact with each
other, and as soon as the germs are
four inches long, are removed to the
hot-bed.

Management. — More than one stem
should never be allowed, otherwise the
tubers are small, and not more nume-
rous.

Water must be given whenever the
soil appears dry, and in quantity propor-
tionate to the temperature of the air.
Linings must be applied as the temper-
ature declines; and air admitted as
freely as the temperature of the atmo-
sphere will allow. Coverings must be
afforded with the same regard to tem-
perature.

From six to seven weeks usually
elapse between the time of planting and
the fitness of the tubers for use. The
average produce from a light soil is
about five pounds.

There is another mode of obtaining
young potatoes, during the winter,
which is much practised on account of
its facility; though, being produced
without foliage, they are not so fine in
flavour, are deficient in farina, and are
otherwise inferior. Old potatoes often
throw out from their sides young ones,
early in the spring ; and of this habit
advantage is taken in obtaining them
still earlier. Some full-grown and ripe
tubers, of the ox noble variety, that
have no appearance of vegetating, must
be laid alternately with layers of per-
fectly dry, rich, vegetable mould, four
inches deep, in pans or boxes, until
they are filled. These may be placed
in a thoroughly dry shed, or on a shelf
in the kitchen. If the layers are con-
structed in the corner of a shed or cel-
lar, the produce will be equally good,

POT

479

POT

though longer in coming to perfection, the ichor to the tubers. These sliould
No foliaiie is proiliiced, the potatoes be taken up forthwith and clamped as
soon are surrounded liy numerous joung recommended by Dr. Lindlev, witii a
ones of moderate size. No water must layer of earth or sand alternating with
ever be admitted on any account. No- each layer of potatoes,
tice is to be taken that between three The disease seems to be the natural
and four months elapse between the resultof an excessive degree of wet and
ti(ne of forming the layers and the tit- cold at that period of closing growth
ness of the produce for use. Thus if when all bulbs and tubers require an
made early in September, the crop will increased degree of dryness and warmth,
be ready in the course of December. If the hyacinth, or tulip, or dahlia are
When they are examined, those that submitted to similar unpropitious con-
are lit may be taken oft', and the old tingencies, their bulbs or tubers simi-
potaloes replaced until the remainder larly decay.

are ready. I it is not a new disease, for to a less

Potato Murrain. — By the above ' extent it has been frequently noticed

name was distinguished a moist gan- , before. The best preservative of the

grene which attacked very generally tubers in such ungenial seasons is to

the potato crop of England late in the take them up, to dry them perfectly,

summer of the year 1845. July and and then store them in a dry shed in

August were unusually wet and cold
and early in August there were sharp
morning frosts. Immediately after, the
stems began to decay; but the weather
continuing wet, instead of their decay
being dry, and attended with the usual
phenomena of their reduction to mere
woody fibre, the putrefaction was moist,
and the smell attendant upon it precise-
ly that evolved during the decay of dead
potato haulm partly under water. The
stem decayed whilst the fibres connect-
ing the tubers with them were fresh
and juicy — the putrefaction spread
along these, the ichor being absorbed
by their still energetic vessels, and
passing into the still immature and un-
usually juicy tubers, imparted to them
the gangrene; the infection first being ap-
parent at the end nearest the connecting
iibre, spreading gradually throughout
the liber of the tuber, rendering it brown
like a decayed apple, and lastly causing
the decay of its interior portion. Pre-
viously to the final decay, the increased
specific gravity of the potato was re-
markable, amounting to one-third more

dry coal ashes.

Much has been written on this sub-
iect, and the newspapers here and in
Europe have been tilled with specula-
tions as to its duration, &c. The failure
to a considerable extent of the crop of
the present year, (1S46,) would indicate
that the disease is not of such temporary
character as had been hoped and pre-
dicted. If it continue all the old varie-
ties must necessarily be abandoned, and
reliance placed on new ones, raised
from the seed proper; therefore, as a
matter of |)recaution, we would recom-
mend attention to that object. They
are readily produced by carefully sow-
ing the seed, and replanting the young
tubers in successive seasons, until they
attain full size. There is reason to hope
such would be free from disease, or at
any rate less liable to it, than the older
varieties.

POTATO or UNDER-GROUND
ONION. Allium aggregatum. This
s[)ecies of Allium has received the
above appellations, on account of its

than that ofa healthy tuber— an increase : producing a cluster ot bulbs or offsets,
caused by its greater amount of water. "' number from two to twelve, and even
When boiled it became black; but when i "lOf^, uniformly beneath the surface of

submitted to a dry heat of about SOO^,
it rapidly lost moisture, and the pro-
gress of the ulceration was retarded, if
not entirely stopped.

There can be no preventive for such
a disease as this — and the only chance

the soil. From being first introduced
to public notice in Scotland by Captain
Burns of Edinburgh, it is there also
known as the Burn Onion.

Varieties. — There evidently appear to
be two varieties of this vegetable, one

of saving the tubers is to mow off all i of which bears bulbs on the s^^mmit of
the haulms close to the ground the i its stems, like the tree onion, and the
moment infection is apparent in them. | other never throwing up flower stems
This might prevent the circulation ofiatall. One variety is much larger than

POT

480

POT

the other, and this vegetates again as
soon as ripe.

Both varieties are best propagated
by offsets of the root of moderate size,
for if those are employed which the one
variety produces on the summit of its
stems, they seldom do more than in-
crease in size the first year, but are pro-

Poterium Sanguisorba. Small, or
Upland Burnet. Used in cool tankards,
soups, and salads.

Soil and Situation. — It delights in a
dry, poor soil, abounding in calcareous
matter ; any light compartment that has
an open exposure, therefore, may be
allotted to it, the only beneficial addi

lific the next ; this also occurs if very tion that can be applied being brick-
small offsets of the root are employed. ! layers' rubbish or fragments of chalk.
Planting. — They may be planted i A small bed will be sufficient for the
during October or November, or as ear- I supply of a family.

]y in the spring as the season will allow, | Propagation is either by seed, or by
but not later than April. They are ' slips and partings of the roots. The
either to be inserted in drills, or by ' seed may be sown towards the close of
a blunt dibble, eight inches apart each , February, if open weather, and thence
way, not buried entirely, but the top of I until the close of May; but the best
the offset just level with the surface, time is in autumn, as soon as it is ripe;
Mr. Maher, gardener at Arundle Castle, I for, if kept until the spring, it will often

merely places the sets on the surface
covering them with leaf-mould, rotten
dung, or other light compost. The beds
they are grown in are better not more
than four feet wide, for the convenience
of cultivation.

Cultivation. — The only cultivation
required is to keep them clear of weeds.

fail entirely, or lie in the ground until
the same season of the following year,
without vegetating. Insert in drills,
six inches apart, thin, and not buried
more than half an inch. The plants
must he kept thoroughly clear of weeds
throughout their growth. When two
or ihrce inches high, thin to six inches

The practice of earthing the mould over j apart, and those removed place in rows
them when the stems have grown up is', at the same distance, in a poor, shady
unnatural, and by so doing the bulbs border, water being given occasionally
are blanched and prevented ripening i until they have taken root, after which
perfectly, on which so much depends, they will require no further attention

their keeping. So far from following
this plan, Mr. Wedgewood, of Betley,
recommends the earth always to be
cleared away down to the ring from
whence the fibres spring, as soon as
the leaves have attained their full size
and begin to be brown at the top, so
that a kind of basin is formed round the
bulb. As soon as they vegetate, they
intimate the number of offsetts that will
be produced, by showin
each.

until the autumn, when they must be
removed to their final station, in rows
a foot apart. When of established
growth, the only attention requisite is
to cut down their stems occasionally in
summer, to promote the production of
young shoots, and in autumn to have
the decayed stems and shoots cleared
away.

If propagated by partings of the roots,

a shoot for | the best time for practising it is in Sep-

I tember and October. They are planted

They attain their full growth towards at once where they are to remain, and

the end of July ; tor immediate use they
may be taken up as they ripen, but for
keepiVig, a little before they attain per-
fect maturity, which is demonstrated by
the same symptoms as were mentioned
in speaking of the onion.

POTENTILLA. One hundred and
sixteen species. Hardy herbaceous,
except the green-house P. Vnieariloba.
Seed and division. Light loam.

POTERIUM. Burnet. Six species.
Chiefly hj^dy herbaceous and shrubby.
The latter are increased by young cut-

only require occasional watering until
established. The other parts of their
cultivation are as for those raised from
seed.

To obtain Seed some of the plants
must be left ungathered from, and al-
lowed to shoot up early in the summer;
they flower in July, and ripen abund-
ance of seed in the autumn.

POT-HERBS. See Herhary.

To Dry Pot-Herbs. — Though grow-
ing plants can bear an elevated tem-
perature without injury, a very different

tings, and the others by seed. Lights effect is produced upon them by even a

rich loam.

lower heat after they have been sepa-

POT

481

POT

rated from their roots. This has to be
borne in mind in the drying of pot-herbs, '
which, though it is a process very sim-
ple and ver^ important for the winter
cuisine that it should be conducted cor-
rectly, is usually more neglected and
more thoughtlessly practised than any
other in the varied range of the garden-
er's duties. To demonstrate this, v\ill
only require to have pointed out how it
ought to be managed. The flavour of
almost every pot-herb arises from an
essential oil which it secretes, and this
being in the greatest abundance just
previously to the opening of its flow-
ers, that is the time which ought to
be selected for gathering. Pot-herbs
ought to be dried (juickly, because if
left exposed to winds, much of the es-
sential oil evaporates, and mouldiness
occurring and long continuing destroys
it altogether; for nearly every plant
has its peculiar mucor, (mould,) the
food of which is the characteristic oily
secretion of the plant on which it vege-
tates. A dry brisk heat is therefore
desirable ; and as the fruit store-room
ought always to have a stove, and is
untenanted when herbs rocjuire drying,

Mr. Errington has in his potting-shed
twenty bins containing as follows : —

1. Strong tenacious loam.

2. Half-rotten leaf-mould.

3. Heath soil.

4. Horse manure.

5. Cow manure.

6. Charcoal wood-ashes.

7. Fine bone manure.

8. Sharp sand.

9. Burnt turf of No. 1.

10. Sphagnum, well scalded.

11. Heath soil of No. 3, in one inch

squares.

12. Loam of No. 1, in one inch

squares.

13. One-inch mixed drainage.

14. Two-inch mixed drainage.

15. Mixed drainage, small.

16. One-inch bottom-crocks.

17. Two-incli bottom-crocks.
IS. Three-inch bottom-crocks.

19. Charcoal, large lumps.

20. One-inch boiled bone for bottoms.
Bin 1. {Strong Tenacious Loam.) —

This is obtained from very old rest land,
on a clayey or marly sub-soil ; the more
rushes and old coarse grass it contains,
the better it is for the potting-shed ;

no other place can be more efficiently this is piled up in a sharp ridge out of
employed for the purpose. The tem- doors, so as to exclude rain ; it should

perature should be 90'', for if it exceeds
this, the essential oils are apt to burst
the integuments of the containing ves-
sels and to escape. Forty-eight hours,
if the heat is kept up steadily, are sufii-
cient to complete the process of drying.
The leaves, in which alone the essen-
tial oils of pot-herbs reside, should then
be carefully clipped with scissors, not
crushed, from the stalks, and stored in

be used for general purposes, when
from six to twelve months old ; I house
a smaller portion in the compost shed
after being dried in the sun; and thif,
I use for very particular purposes, such
in fact as rc(juire, according to my esti-
mation, lumps of turf in its native state,
and for these purposes it is chopped into
squares for bin 12. This loam is chop-
ped down from a perpendicular facing.

tightly corked wide-mouthed bottles, (like cutting hay,) when wanted for bin
Each will thus preserve its peculiar l,and being somewhat mellow, a con-
aroma, not only through the winter, siderable portion of the mere soil falls
but for years, and be infinitely superior out loose in the act of chopping. This
to any specimens producible in the
forcing department, for these are una-
voidably deficient in flavour. — Princ.
of Gardening.

P O T H O S . Thirty-three species.
Stove orchids. Division. Peat and
loam.

POT-MARIGOLD. Calendula
officinalis.

POTTING. Pots are the first con-
sideration, and these are considered
under the title Flower Pot.

is rejected, and the masses of chopped
turf alone fill bin 1.

Bin. 2. {Half-rotten Leaf-mould.) —
This is generally slightly mixed with
rotten dung, as it is the worn out pit
linings, which have generally a little
dung blended with the leaves. By ly-
ing in the compost yard for a few
months, the outside becomes mellowed
down, and af\er shaking some of the
finest out through a quarter of an inch
riddle, it is passed through a sieve of

Materials required. — These must not at least one inch in the mesh, and what
be sifted, but the pebbles and rough j comes through this is put into bin 2

vegetable fibres be allowed to remain.:
31

Bin 3. {Heath Soi/.)— Obtained from

POT

482

POT

Delamere Forest, in parts where the ! cover fresh sown seeds, where it is de-
heather is cut for making besoms. The ■ sirable to insure a permanent moisture
upper surface of this heath soil is com- ; without frequent watering; it also pro-
posed of heath leaves and moss, in a duces a darkness favourable to germi-
raw or half-decomposed state, and too | nation.

fresh for the purposes of potting ; but | Bin 13. {One-inch Drainage termed
beneath this, and in contact with the A'b. 1.) — This is composed of about
gray sand, lies a flake of vegetable , equal parts of boiled bone, charcoal,
matter full of the roots of heather, pos- , and pounded crocks, in lumps averaging
sessing little sand, and compressed by , an inch square, and intended to cover
the weight of centuries. This, when I the rough crock placed over the hole of
divested of the dirty sand under it, and pots, from No. 32 to No. 16 of the Lon-
of the mossy and raw matter on the ! don sizes inclusive,
surface, is put in bin 3, after being Bin 19. (^Charcoal in large lumps.) —
half-dried. This is used to mix with the potsherds

Bin 4. {Horse Manure, or Old Horse for orchidaceous plants, and when large
Droppings.) — Obtain them before high masses are wanted for very large shifts,
fermentation takes place, and ridge Bin 20. {One-inch boiled Bone.) —
them up in the compost yard , three feet I This is used after the manner of No. 19,
in width, three feet in height, and in- } when considered requisite. To the
stantly roof them over (to shut in the ; above may be added old tan, riddled
gases) with double turves, each over- ! particularly clean; to be intermixed
lapping the other: in this way a slight' with or placed over the drainage; for
fermentation takes place, which, being i such it answers exceedingly well, not-
arrested, is beneficial. Rain is at all i withstanding the prejudice against it.
times excluded from this in the compost ; It is very well adapted for annuals in

yard by the roofing.

pots, a single crock with a handful or

Bin 5. {Cow Manure.) — This is cow two of old tan over it, provides a safe

droppings placed in a ridge, and roofed,
similarly to the horse-dung, but allowed
to remain to a much greater age ; in

drainage for a season, and withal
rooting medium. — Card. Chron.

Care required. — A principal object to

fact, when placed in Bin No. 5, it has , be aimed at in potting is complete drain-
the appearance of rich peat, being at! age, for nothing is more injurious to

least two years old.

most plants than stagnant water about

Bin 6. {Wood Ashes and Charcoal.) \ their roots. The drainage is best ef-
— Brush-wood at bottom, covered with | fected by filling one-fourth the depth of
all sorts of garden refuse, viz. cabbage ! the pot with the larger fragments of
stalks, potato haulm, hedge clippings, ] bones and charcoal mixed in equal pro-
and in fact weeds and rubbish of all . portions; this and the pebbles, woody
kinds, which, when about half-burned, fibres, &c., which are now allowed to
are closed up with soils of any kind, I remain in the soil, will remove from it
and kept smouldering for days; when i all superfluous water. Dryness in the
the combustion is complete it is sub- j centre of the ball of earth is another
jected to a riddle of an inch mesh, and i evil to be avoided. Though not usual-
what comes through is housed in a dry ^ ly suspected, it occurs more often than
state in this bin, the rest belongs to 1 excess of wet, and deprives the roots
bin 19. ' ' ' . - . .

Bin 8.

of a large proportion of their pasturage.
{Sharp Sand.) — Coarse river I To prevent it, a small rod of iron should
sand ; but every potting-shed should be ; be thrust through the earth around the
furnished with two kinds, the one very , stem occasionally, to allow the water

coarse and the other very fine, both as
sharp as they can be obtained ; the
London propagating sand is an invalu-
able article.

Bin 10. {Sphagnum, well scalded.) —
This is chiefly for orchidaceous plants,
and requires to be steeped in boiling
water for some hours previously to be-
ing transferred to this bin, in order to
destroy insects. It is also useful to

poured upon the surface a freer en-
trance. Mr. Moore, to efl^ect the same,
says — " Whenever a plant (most parti-
cularly a valuable specimen plant) is
repotted, either in its infancy or in its
maturity, I would introduce a few sticks
of charcoal perpendicularly into the
pot; these should be long enough to
extend from the bottom of the pot to
the top of the soil ; about three might

POU

483

PRO

be placed at regular intervals, and they i
should be as close to the roots, and as |
near to the centre of the pots as possi-
ble. Thus if a plant is shifted but
once, it will be provided with some chan-

P. veris. Cowslip.

P. vulgaris. Primrose. Of this there
are the following cultivated v;irieties:
Brimstone: Crimson; Hose-in-hose ; Li-
ne; Purple; Scotch; Stemless White;

nels for moisture, extending throughout White and Yellow. All the species
the soil, and if it be frequently repotted, : may be cultivated like the Polyanthus.

the number of these channels may be I
increased. When these are once

PRINCE, WILLIAM. The name of
Prince is identified with American hor-

troduced into the soil they are perma- | ticulture. Perhaps no man has done
nent ; for being of material which is' more to gratify the taste of amateurs of
not subject to rapid decay, they willj flowers and fruit than the late William
serve at least the lifetime of a plant, | Prince, whose extensive grounds at
and by occasionally making use of a ! Flushing, New York, were the nursery
simple siphon, a mere worsted thread,! of almost every vegetable calculated to
in contact with moisture, a slow, mo- { please the eye or palate. We regret
derate, and constant supply of moisture that there is not within our reach the

Five species. Stove
magnispatha is an or-
Sandy loam

Green-
division.

may be conveyed at pleasure to and
through the centre of the soil, and the
whole mass may thus be kept regularly
and equably moistened." — Gard. Chron.
See One- Shift System. \

POUPARTIA. Three species. Stove
evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam
and peat. j

POURRETIA
herbaceous. P.
chid. Seed and suckers
and peat.

PRATIA. Three species
house herbaceous. Seed and
Sandy loam and peat.

PREMNA. Four species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Seed and cuttings.
Loam and peat.

P R E S L I A cervina. Hardy herba-
ceous. Division. Moist soil.

PRESTONIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

PRICKLY CEDAR. Cyatkodes oxy-
cedrus.

PRIESTLEYA. Fourteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

PRIMROSE. Primula vulgaris.

PRIMULA. Forty-nine species and
many varieties. Herbaceous and all

data from which to draft a particular
description of the foundation, rise and
progress of the " Linnxan Botanic
Garden."

PRINCE'S FEATHER. Amaran-
thus hypochondriacus.

PRINOS. Eleven species. Hardy
deciduous shrubs, except the stove
evergreen P. montanus and P. lucidus,
which is evergreen and hardy. Cut-
tings and layers. Light loam and
peat.

PRISMATOCARPUS. Four species.
P. diffusus is a green-house evergreen
shrub ; P. fruticosus is a hardy ever-
green shrub ; the others green-house
herbaceous. Young cuttings and seed.
Sandy loam and peat.

PRIVET. Ligustrum.

PROCKIA. three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

PROLIFEROUS. See Double-
Flower.

PROPS are the supports required by
plants to sustain them in a desired
position. They must vary in height
and strength accordantly with the plant
to which they are applied, and should
always be as slight as is consistent
with efficiency. Nothing looks worse
hardy except the fringed green-house than a disproportioned prop; indeed it
varieties, P. prts/ii'/fns, and the species should be concealed as much as pos-

P. verlicitlata. Division and seed
Loam and leaf-mould.

P. auricula. See Auricula.

P. elatior. 0x1 i p.

P. pr<enitens or sinensis. Chinese
Primrose. This is har<ly if grown in a
light, well-drained soil, but its white
and pink fringed varieties require win-
tering in the green-house.

sible. The props for peas should bo
of the branches of the hazel ; for run-
ner kidney beans, rods of ash. For
flowers, stout iron wire painted dark
green are to be preferred. Some
flowers require props of a peculiar
form ; but these will be described
when giving directions for their cul-
ture. Whenever wooden props are

PRO

484

PRU

used, the end thrust into the ground
should be previously charred ; if this
precaution be taken, and when no
longer required, they are stored in a
dry shed, they will last for several
peasons. Props should be placed on
the south sides of the plants, as they

the operation should not take place un-
til the fall of the leaf indicates that
vegetation has ceased, yet if the tree
be weak, it may be often performed
with advantage a little earlier; but
still so late in the autumn as to pre-
vent the protrusion of fresh shoots.

incline in that direction, as being most This reduction of the branches before

tlie tree has finished vegetating, directs
Two species, a greater supply of sap to those re-
— ' - Seed. I maining, and stores up in them the
I supply for increased growth next sea-
,^ ^^^^,^^. Stove I son. If the production of spurs is the
Cuttings. Peat and 1 object of pruning a branch, it should be
' pruned so as to leave a stump ; because
as the sap supplied to the branch will
be concentrated upon those buds re-
maining at its extremity, these will be
productive of shoots, though otherwise
they would have remained dormant, it
being the general habit of plants first to
develop and mature parts that are far-
thest from the roots. It is thus the
filbert is induced to put forth an abund-
ance of young bearing wood, for its
fruit is borne on the annual shoots, and
similar treatment to a less severe ex-
tent is practised upon wall fruit." —
Princ. of Gardening.

The mystery of pruning consists in
being well acquainted with the mode of

light

PROSERPINACA
Half-hardy annual aquatics
Rich loam in water.

PROSOPIS. Five species
evergreen tree
loam.

PROSTANTHERA. Seven species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings. Sandy peat.

P R O T E A . Forty-seven species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe
cuttings taken off at a joint ; sandy turfy
loam, well drained. Water moderate-
ly, but regularly.

PRUNELLA. Self-Heal. Fourteen
species. P. Broumiana and P. ovata
are hardy annuals, the others hardy
herbaceous. Seed or division. Light
rich loam.

PRUNING, as practised in the gar-
den, has for its object the regulation of
the branches to secure the due pro-

duction of blossom and maturity of the bearing of the diflierent sorts of

trees, and forming an early judgment
of the future events of shoots and
branches, and many other circum-
stances, for which some principal rules
may be given ; but there are particular

fruit. If carried to too great an extent^
that object is not attained, for every
tree reijuires a certain amount of leaf-
surface for the elaboration of its sap ;
and, therefore, if this be reduced too

allU, LIICl eiui c, ll una uc Jcuui;cu luu may uc ^ivcii , uui liicic; uic ^aiiii.uiai

much, blossom buds are produced less instances which cannot be judged of

abundantly, for leaves are more neces
sary for the health of the plant, and by
a wise provision the parts less requi-
site for individual vigour are super-
seded by the parts more needed. On

^" — — J — & — "-

but upon the spot, and depend chief-
ly upon practice and observation. —
Peaches, nectarines, apricots, &c., all
produce their fruit princi|)allv upon the
young wood of a year old ; that is, the

the Other hand, if the branches are left j shoots produced this year bear the year

too thick, they overshadow those be-
neath them, and so exclude the light.

following ; so that in all these trees, a
general supply of the best shoots of

as to prevent that elaboration of the : each year must be everywhere pre-
sap, without which no blossom buds 1 served at regular distances, from the
are formed, but an excessive produc- i very bottom to the extremity of the
tion of leaves, in the vain eff'ort to at- j tree on every side ; but in winter prun-
tain by an enlarged surface that elabo- i ing, or general shortening, less or

ration which a smaller surface would
etfect in a more intense light. The
appropriate pruning is given when
considering each species of fruit trees,
and here we must confine ourselves
to a few general remarks : " The
season for pruning must be regulated
in some degree by the strength of the
tree ; for although, as a general rule,

more, according to the strength of the
different shoots, is necessary, in order
to promote their throwing out, more
effectually, a supply of young wood
the ensuing summer, in proper place
for training in for the succeeding year's
bearing.

Vines also produce their fruit always
upon the young wood shoots of the

PRU

485

PRU

same year, arising from the eyes of the ) would soon pvisli again vigorously from
last year's wood only; and must, there- , every eye, and render the trees a thick-
fore, have a general supply of the best j et of useless wood. Therefore, all
regular shoots of each year trained in, i sorts, whether they require shortening
which, in winter pruning, must be , in the winter pruning or not, should, in
shortened to a few eyes, in order to the summer dressing, be layed in at
force out shoots from their lower parts, full length; but towards the end of Au-
only properly situated to lay in for bear- i gust, the extreme points may be pinch-
ing the following year. ed off with great advantage. The sap
Figs bear also only upon the young is thus made to complete the growth of
wood of a year old, and a general sup- | the shoot, and not to increase its length ;
ply of it is, therefore, necessary every ' and it is too late in the season for fresh
year ; but these shoots must at no time shoots to be induced.
be shortened, unless the ends are dead, j Summer pruning is a most necessary
because they always bear principally operation. Young shoots require thin-
towards the extreme part of the shoots, ' ning to preserve the beauty of the trees,
which, if shortened, would take the! and encourage the fruit; and the soon-
bearing or fruitful parts away ; besides, er it is performed the better. It is,
they naturally throw out a sufficient therefore, advisable to begin this work
supply of shoots every year for future i in May, or early in June, removing

bearing, without the precaution of
shortening.

Apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees
bear principally on spurs, arising in the
wood of from two or three, to ten or
twenty years old, the same branches
and spurs continuing bearing a great
number of years ; so that, having once
procured a proper set of branches in
the manner already directed to form a

all superfluous growths and ill placed
shoots, which may be performed with
considerably more expedition and ex-
actness than when after the trees have
shot a considerable length. Where,
however, a tree is inclined to luxuri-
ancy, it is proper to retain as many of
the regular shoots as can be commodi-
ously trained in with any regularity, in
order to divide and exhaust the too

spreading head, no farther supply of; abundant sap. It will be necessarv to
wood is wanted than some occasional review the trees occasionally, in order
shoots now and then to supply the to reform such branches or slmots as
place of any worn out or dead branch, may have started from their places, or
The above-mentioned spurs or fruit- : taken a wrong direction ; also that, ac-
buds are short robust roots of from cordingly as any fresh irregular shoots
about half an inch to one or two inches I produced since the general dressing
long, arising naturally, first towards the may be displaced; and, likewise, as
extreme parts of the branches of two or the already trained shoots advanced
three years old, and, as the branch in- i in length, or project from the wall

creases in length, the number of fruit- i
buds increases accordingly. ,

In pruning always cut quite close, '
both in the summer and winter prun- '
ing, which, in the summer pruning, if
attended to early, while the shoots are
quite young and tender, they may rea-
dily be rubbed off quite close with the
thumb; but when the shoots become
older and woody, as they will not rea-

or espalier, they should be trained in
close.

In the winter pruning, a general re-
gulation must be observed, both of the
mother branches, and the supply of
young wood laid in the preceding sum-
mer ; and the proper time for this work
is any time in open weather, from the
fill of the leaf in November, until
March; but the sooner the better. In

dily break, it must be done with a knife, I performing this work, it is jiroper to

cutting them as close as possible; and
all winter pruning must always be per-
formed with a knife. In pruning in
summer, the necessary supply of regu-
lar shoots left for training in should
never be shortened during this season,
unless to particular shoots, to fill a va-

unnail or loosen a chief part of the
branches, particularly of peaches, nec-
tarines, apricots, vines, and other trees
requiring an annual supply of young
wood. First look overall the principal
or mother branches, and examine il
any are worn out, or not furnished with

cancy ; for, by a general shortening in ' parts proper for bearing fruit, and let
this season, all the shoots so treated [ such branches be cut down to the great

PRU

4S6

PS Y

branch from which they proceed, or to
any lower shoot or bottom part, leaving
these to supply its place. Likewise
examine if any branches are become too
long for the allotted space, either at
sides or top, and let them be reformed
accordingly, by shortening them down
to some lower shoot or branch proper-
ly situated to supply the place, being
careful that every branch terminates
in a young shoot for a leader, and not
stumped off at the extremity. From
the principal or larger branches pass to
the shoots of the year which were train-
ed up in summer, first cutting out close
all foreright and other irregular shoots
that may have been omitted in the sum-
mer pruning ; likewise all very weak |
ehoots, and those of very luxuriant
growth, unless it be necessary to keep
some to supply a vacant place. In this
pruning, as in the summer dressing, it
is of importance to have a strict eye to
the lower parts of wall-trees, &c., to
see if there is any present vacancy, or
any that apparently will soon happen,!
in which cases, if any good shoot is
situated contiguous, it should be train-
ed in, either at full length, or shorten it
to a few eyes, to force out two or more
shoots, if they shall seem necessary; for
precaution should ever be observed in
taking care to have betimes a sufficient
stock of young wood coming forward to
fill up any casual vacancy, and substi-
tute a new set of branches in place of
such as are either decayed or stand in
need of retrenchment.

Sometimes in wall-trees and espaliers
there are many large disagreeable bar-
ren spurs, consisting both of old worn
out fruit spurs, and of clusters of stumps
of shortened shoots projecting conside-
rably from the branches, occasioned
by unskilful pruning, when retrenching
the superabundant and irregular shoots
which, instead of being cut out close,
are stumped off to an inch or two long.
At this season of pruning, it is advisable
to reform them as well as possible, by
cutting all the most disagreeable stumps
close to the branches, leaving these at
full length, especially if apples, pears,
&c., and reserve an occasional supply
of young wood in different parts, and
thus, in two or three years, you <nay
reduce such trees to a regular figure,
and a proper state of bearing.

Too severe pruning is greatly preju-
dicial to the health of some sorts of,

fruit. Plums and cherries, in particu-
lar, are often greatly damaged by a too
severe discipline of the knife, these
trees being very liable to gum by large
amputations. It is, therefore, of import-
ance to attend to these trees well in the
summer pruning, to retrench all the
superfluous and irregular shoots while
quite young, and pinch others occasion-
ally where wood is wanted to fill va-
cancies, so as to require but little prun-
ing out of large wood in winter. —
Abercromhie.

PRUNING APPARATUS. In all
mechanical operations success is more
certainly attained by the use of proper
implements; though pruning or the lop-
ping of branches may be very simple,
yet there is great advantage in execut-
ing it with the instruments best adapted
to the purpose, most of which are de-
scribed in these pages, under their
proper heads.

PRUNUS. Plum. Eight species and
many varieties. P. domestica, see Plum,
All hardy deciduous trees. Seed, suck-
ers, and grafting or budding. Common
soil, well drained.

PSIDIUM. Guava. Thirteen spe-
cies. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

PSOPHOCARPUS tetragono-
bulus. Annual stove twiner. Seed.
Light rich loam.

PSORALEA. Forty-two species.
The green-house and stove evergreens
are increased by cuttings ; the half-
hardy herbaceous, by seed and cut-
tings ; the biennials, by seed. All re-
quire light loam and peat.

PSYCHOTRIA. Sixteen species. P.
daphnoides is a green-house evergreen
shrub ; P. parasitica is a parasite, and
the others stove evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

P S Y L L A . The chermes, nearly
allied to the aphis. P. pyri. Pear
chermes, appears in May, not unlike a
large aphis, crimson coloured, shaded
with black. Mr. Kollar thus details its
habits : —

" As soon as the fruit trees put out
buds, the winged chermes makes its
appearance. When pairing is over, the
female lays her eggs in great numbers
near each other on the young leaves
and blossoms, or on the newly formed
fruit and shoots. They are of a longish
shape, and yellow; and, without a mag-
nifying glass, they resemble the pollen

PS Y

487

PT E

of flowers. They are called either ! birth, they cast their first skin, after
nymphs or larvie in this state (accord- j which they appeared nearly of their
ing to the extent of their develop- former shape and colour. The second
ment); and, like their parents, have ' changing of the skin can sometimes be
their mouth in the breast. After a few 1 scarcely seen at all, because the larva
days, they change their skins, and be- I not only puts out a thicker string with
come darker, and somewhat reddish on i the tubercle, but also an immense num-
the breast, and rather resemble bugs I ber of very fine entangled threads or
than plant-lice, having the extreme j small hairs, which it turns upwards
point of the Ixody somewhat broad, and | over its back, and with them entirely
beset with bristles. After changing j covers its body and head. In sunshine,
their skins, they leave the leaves, bios- these strings look transparent, as if
soms, and fruit, and proceed more ; they were made of glass, and become
downwards to the bearing wood and of a greenish variable colour. Under

the shoots of last year, on which they
fix themselves securely, one after the
other, in rows, and remain there till
their last transformation.

" When the nymphs have moulted
for the last time, and have attained their
full size, the body swells out by de

this screen the chermes are secured
from every attack of other insects ; for
no ants, mites, or bugs can disturb
them in their fortification, or consume
them as their prey. After changing
the second skin, the young assumed a
different colour and form ; tliev now

grees, and becomes cylindrical. They became light green all over, the abdo-
then leate their associates, and before I men was much broader than the thorax,
they lay aside their nymph-like cover- 1 and on the side of the latter, rudiments
ing, they search out a leaf to which j of the wings were distinctly seen. The

they fasten themselves firmly, and ap
pear as if thev were lifeless. After a
few minutes the skin splits on the upper
part of the covering, and a winged in-
sect proceeds from it. It is of a plea-
sant green colour, with red eyes, and
snow-while wings. It very much re-
sembles its parents in spring, even in
the colour. After a few days, this
chermes has assumed the colours of
the perfect insect ; the head, collar, and
thorax, are of an orange colour, and
only the abdomen retains its green hue.
It now Hies away from the place of its
birth, to enjoy the open air."

P. mali. Apple Chermes. For the
following I am also indebted to the too
much neglected work of JNI. Kollar : —

" It usually appears in June. In
September, the apple chermes pair, and
lay their eggs. They are white, and

third time of changing the skin comes
on in about eight days, sometimes
sooner and sometimes later, according
to the weather. After this skin the
wing rudiments very distinctly make
their appearance, and become larger
and whiter the nearer the insect ap-
proaches to the perfect state. The
body is also of a light green, and the
larva; have black eyes, and blackish
antenna;. At last the time arrives when
the insect assumes the perfect state ;
when it retires to a part of a leaf which
it had selected, and after having firmly
fixed itself there, the back splits open,
and the beautiful winged chermes ap-
pears from the nymph. The back of
the thorax is of a light green, the abdo-
men is marked with yellow rings, and
the membranous wings with strongly
marked snow-white veins."

pointed at both ends, a line and a halfl P. cratcrf^i infests the camellia. It

long, and the fourth of a line thick,
and become yellow before the young
escapes. The apple chermes lays its
eggs in different places of the twigs of
an apple-tree ; usually, however, in the
furrows of the knots, and sometimes in
a very regular manner. The larva;
■were scarcely escaped from the egg, in
the open air, when they hastened to
the nearest bud, and began to gnaw its
scales, because the bud was only some-
what swollen, and had not begun to

is destroyed by syringing with tobacco
water, or diluted gas ammoniacal liquor,
until the insects are dead, and then
syringing with water only.

P. ficus and P. ros«, are respectively
on the fig and rose trees.

PTELEA trifoliata. Hardy decidu-
ous shrub. Layers. Light rich loam.

PTELIDIUM ovntum. Stove ever-
green shrub. Ripe cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

PTEIIIS. Forty-six species. Stove,

sprout. On the second day after their ) green-house, and hardy and herbaceous

PTE

488

PUT

ferns. Division and seed. Sandy loam short period, we believe, in charge of

the Hamilton collection, at the Wood-
lands, near Philadelphia. His "Flora
Septentrionalis, or a systematic arrange-
ment and description of the plants of
North America," is a standard work,
and evinces his thorough acquaintance
with the subject. But little is known
of Pursh's personal history.

PURSLANE. Portulaca.

P. oleracea. Green, or Garden Purs-
lane.

P. saliva. Golden Purslane.

Soil and Situation. — A light rich soil
is the one in which they thrive most,
and they must have a warm situation,
as a south border. Sow in February
and early in March, in a moderate hot-
Cuttings. ' bed, to remain where sown ; and at the
close of March, and once monthly,
during April, May, and the summer
months until the end of August, in the
open ground.

Sow in drills six inches apart, very
thin, and abouthalf an inch deep. The
plants soon make their appearance.
They must be kept clear of weeds, and
thinned to six or eight inches asunder.
In dry weather water is required mode-
rately two or three times a week.

In general, they are ready forgather-
ing from in six weeks after sowing, the
young shoots being made use of from
two to five inches in length, and the
plants branch out again.

The hot-bed crops require the air to
be admitted as freely as possible, the
temperature ranging between 50" and
75°.

To obtain Seed. — As a small quantity
will suffice for the largest family, a few
of the earliest border-raised plants must
be left ungathered from ; the strongest
and largest leaved being selected; they
blossom in June and July. They must
be cut immediately the seed is ripe, laid
on a cloth, and when perfectly dry,
thrashed. The refuse is best separated

and peat

PTEROCARPUS. Eight species. P.
scandens is a stove climber, and the
others stove evergreen trees. Young
cuttings. Rich light loam.

PTEROCEPHALUS. Four species.
P. dumitorum is a green-house ever-
green shrub, the others are hardy an-
nuals; the first is increased by cuttings,
and all by seed. Light loam.

PTERODISCUS speciosus. Stove tu-
ber. Division. Rich sandy loam. Pro-
bably half-hardy.

PTERONEURON. Two species.
One herbaceous, the other annual ;
both hardy. Seed. Light loam.

PTERONIA. Nine species. Green
house evergreen shrubs.
Loam and peat.

PTEROSPERMUM. Six species.
Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

PTEROSTYLIS. Twelve species.
Green-house orchids. Division. Sandy
loam and peat.

PTILOSTEPHIUM. Two species.
Hardy annuals. Seed, in a hot-bed;
and seedlings planted in light open
border.

PUCCOON. Sanguinaria.

PUDDLING. See Mudding.

PUERARIA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen climbers. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

PULMONARIA. Eight species.
Hardy herbaceous. Division. Light
loam.

PULTEN.^A. Fifty species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Half-ripe cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

PUMPKIN. Cucurbita pepo. See
Gourd.

PUNICA. Pomegranate. Two spe-
cies, and several varieties. Half-hardy
deciduous shrubs. All are increased
by cuttings and layers, and the less
common by grafting on the more com

mon. Light rich loam. The fruit of by means of a very fine sieve

the common pomegranate. P. grana^um,
ripens well against a south wall.

PUNNET. See Basket.

PURSBIA tridentata. Hardy ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Light well
drained loam.

PUR.SH, FREDERICK, was a native
of Germany, and is distinguished as an
early classifier of our native vegetal)les

PURSLANE-TREE. Portulacaria.

PUSCHKINIA sciUoides. Half-hardy
bulb. Offsets. Sandy loam.

PUTTY is a compound of boiled lin-
seed oil and whiting, but as it may be
bought in London at half-a-guinea per
cwt., it is scarcely worth the gardener-s
while to make it. One hundred weight
is enough for puttying about three hun-

He immigrated to the United States dred square feet of glass

somewhere about 1800, and was for a , Old putty may be softened by apply-

P YC

489

QUI

ing to it rags dipped in a saturated solu-
tion of caustic potash, leaving them on
for twelve hours ; or by rubbing a hot
iron along the putty.

If the gardener does make putty, the
whiting should be well dried, and then
pounded and sifted till it becomes a fine
powder, and is quite free from grit.
The whiting, a little warm, should be
gradually added to the oil, and wel

PYROLIRION aureiim. Green-house
bulb. Offsets. Sandy loam.

PYRULARIA pubera. Half-hardy
deciduous shrub. Cuttings. Light
loam.

PYRUS. Forty-four species, and
very numerous varieties. Seed, cuttings,
and grafting. Light loam, well drained.
See Apple, Pear, and Service.

PYXID ANTHER A barbulata. Half-

mixed by means of a piece of stick, or hardy trailer. Cuttings and division.

a spatula. When it is sufficiently stiff,
it should be well worked with the hand
on a table, and afterwards beaten on a
stone with a wooden mallet, till it be-
comes a soft, smooth, tenacious mass.
A ball of putty, when left some days.

Peat, and a little sandy loam.

QUAMOCLIT. Ten species. Herb-
aceous, and annual. Q. sanguinea is
evergreen. Young cuttings or seed.
Light rich loam.

QUENOUILLE is a fruit tree, with

becomes somewhat hard, but may be a central stem, and its branches trained

easily softened by beating.

PYCXANTHEMUM. Seven species
Hardy herbaceous. Division
with a little light loam.

in horizontal tiers, the lowest being the

ongest, and the others of course gradu-

Peat, ally lessening in length as they do in

age, so that the tree, like a spruce fir,

PYCNOSTACHIS carulea. Stove ' acquires a pyramidal form.

annual. Seed. Lifiht rich loam.

QUERCUS. The Oak. Forty-eight

PYRALIS forficalis. Cabbage-gar- species, and many varieties. Hardy

den Pebble Moth. Its appearance and
habits are thus detailed by M. Ivollar:

evergreen and deciduous trees. Seed,
and grafting for some of the merely or-

— "The head, back, and upper wings namental kinds. Deep clayey loam in
of the moth are hazel-brown, and brown- valleys. Q. rerris. Bitter Oak. Q.
ishgold; the antennas light brown ; the robur or sessiliflortim. Common Oak.

abdomen and under wings whitish. On
the upper wings are two distinct, and

Q. ilex. Evergreen Oak.

QUICKSET, the same as the Haw-

two faint deep rusty-brown stripes, thorn, or Whitethorn, Cratcegus oxya-

The first brood flies in May, and the
second in August. The caterpillar is
found in May and June, and the second
generation in September and October.
It has a light-brown head, and a yel-

cantha. See Hedge.

Ql'IXCE. Cydonia vulgaris.

]'arieties: — Common ; Apple-shaped ;
Pear-shaped ; and Portugal. The last
is the best, and very distinct from the

lowish-green body, with blackish stripes others. C. sinensis, the Chinese Quince,

running lengthwise, and blackish dots has been fruited in this country, but it

having fine white lines between, and requires a wall. The fruit is very dif-

white incisions and spiracles. Its length Cerent from that of either the common

is about eight lines. When these cater- or Portugal quinces; it is cylindrical,

pillars are numerous, they do important about six inches in length, and exceed-

damage to the cabbage tribe, and horse-
radish.

PYRASTER. Pyrus communis py-
raster.

lugly gritty.

Method of Propagation and general
Culture. — The trees may be raised from
seed sown in autumn, but there is no

P Y R E T H RU M . Fifty species. ' certainty of having the same or any good
Hardy herbaceous, and green-house fruit from seedlings. But the several
evergreen shrubs, except a few hardy varieties may be propagated by cuttings
annuals, and P. simplicifolium, which and layers ; also by suckers from such
is a stove evergreen trailer. The shrubs trees as grow upon their own roots, and
are increased by cuttings, the herba- by grafting and budding upon their own
ceous by division, and the annuals by or pear-stocks.

the The propagation by cuttings, layers,
and suckers, may be performed in

seed. A light rich loam suits
whole.

PYROLA. Eight species. Hardy autumn, winter, or early spring.

herbaceous. Division and seed. Shady
border of peat, with a little light loam.

Choose young wood for the cuttings
and layers. They will be rooted by.

QUI

490

RAD

next autumn ; then transplant into nur- i varieties which answer best at difTerent

sery rows two feet asunder; plant the
suckers also at the same distance, and
train the whole for the purposes intend-
ed ; if for standards with a stem, to any
desired height, from three to six feet;
then encourage them to branch out at
top, to form a head ; and those designed
as dwarfs must be headed near the
ground, and trained accordingly, for
espaliers or dwarf standards.

When they have formed tolerable
heads, plant them out finally. Standard

seasons of the year. For the early
crops, use the Long Scarlet Short Top ;
the Long Salmon, similar to the above,
but of lighter colour, and white at the
point; the Scarlet Turnip Rooted, and
White Turnip Rooted ; frequent sow-
ings are necessary, as all the foregoing
soon become pithy and shoot to seed.
In flavour they differ but little; dis-
crimination is from fancy. At the same
time the early kinds are sown, make
a sowing of the Yellow Turnip, and

quinces, designed as fruit trees, may be Summer White, which are fine kinds,
stationed in the garden or orchard and i withstand the heat, and are firm and
some by the sides of any water in by , crisp even in hot weather ; frequent
places, suffering the whole to take their sowings of these, as well as the White
own natural growth. And as espaliers i Spanish or Black Spanish, as most I iked,
they may be arranged with other mode- j should be made during the summer
rate growing trees, about fifteen feet i months. The two latter kinds sown in

apart. — Abercrombie.

the autumn, keep well throughout the

QUINCUNX is the form resulting i winter, if secured from frost. In the

from planting in rows, with one plant
opposite the centre of each vacancy
in the row on each side of it, as in this
diagram. —

Fig. 138.

QUISQUALIS. Four species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Young cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

QUIVISIA heterophylla. Stove ever-
green shrub. Ripe cuttings. Peat and
light loam.

RADISH.— "The Radish is originally
from the East Indies, but cultivated in
Europe since the sixteenth century,

autumn, any of the early kinds may be
again sown ; when about to do so, al-
ways observe to dig the earth deeply,
and pulverize it well, which tends to
produce fine shaped roots." — Rural
Reg.

To obtain Seed. — Leave in April or
early May, some of the most perfect
plants of a main crop. When in full
vigour they must be taken up with as
little injury as possible to the roots and
leaves, and planted in rows three feet
asunder each way, being inserted by
the dibble, completely down to the
leaves. Water must be applied until
they have taken root, and occasionally
throughout their growth, especially
when in flower. If practicable, it is
best to leave some plants where raised.

To obtain seeds of the Black Span-
ish, some seeds must be sown in March,
or some of the winter-standing crop
left or transplanted during that month.

The flowers open from June until

Formerly the leaves were often boiled j August, and their pods are of a size fit
and stewed ; but now the roots are | for pickling, as they must be gathered
chiefly employed. The young seedling whilst young and tender, during that
leaves are often used with cress and last month, or July. For seed, they

mustard, as small salad, and radish seed
pods, when of plump growth, but still
young and green, are used to increase
the variety of vegetable pickles, and
are considered a tolerable substitute for
capers.

"The well known manner in which
this vegetable is cultivated, renders

must be cut as soon as they become of
a brown hue, and well dried, otherwise
it will thresh with difficulty.

Two varieties must never be raised
near each other, and seed of the pre-
vious year's raising should always be
employed.

Forcing. — A moderate hot-bed is re-
any observations thereon unnecessary. | quired for this crop, of a length ac-
All that is required, is to point out the j cording with that of the frame to be

RAF

491

RAM

employed ; the earth about eight inches frame of boards being formed round the

deep, on the surface of which the seed bed, light and air being admitted as

is to be sown as soon as the violent freely and as often as possible. If seed
heat is abated, and an additional half- i is sown within a frame without any

inch sifted over it. bottom heat, the plants will be two or

The seedlings are in general up in three weeks forwarder than if sown in

less than a week, and in six they will the open ground.

be ready to draw. Throughout their RAFNIA. Five species. Green-
growth air must be admitted as freely house evergreen shrubs. R. irijlora is
as is allowable. The glasses, however, a biennial. Young cuttings. Peat and
must be closed on the approach of even- loam.

ing, and mats or other covering put on | RAGGED ROBIN. Lychnis Flos-

in proportion to the severity of the sea- cuculi.

son. When the earth appears at all RAGS. See Ves;etahle Manures.

dry, a light watering must be given
during the noon.

The plants must not stand nearer
than two inches to each other. The

RAGWORT. Othonara.
RAGWORT. Senecio Jacohaa.
RAILING is of various forms, but
all, if made of wood, are soon decayed

temperature required is from 50° to ' if slight, and clumsy and inelegant if
70^; and it must be kept to this heat strong. Iron railing is at once light,
by moderate coatings as required. \ neat, and enduring, and like the follow-

If there be a deficiency of frames, I ing, may be purchased in England for
hoops and mats may be employed, a I about fifty cents per yard.

Fig. 139.

RAKE (Fig. 140). ''Garden Rakes
vary in the length and strength of their
teeth, as well as in their number; they
are used for covering seeds, raking off
weeds or cut grass, smoothing and
pulverizing surface, &c. This imple-
ment is rtow much less in use than
formerly, when broadcast sowing was
prevalent. Now the broad hoe is quite
as etiicient in covering drill-sown seed.

Fig. 140.

''The Grass Lawn Rake, (Fig. 141,)
has teeth sharpened on both edges,
and is used for raking the grass in order

to cut off the flower heads or buds of
daisies, dandelions, and other plants,
and the uneven tufts on grass lawns."
— Rural Reg.

Fig. 141,

RAMONDI A pj/renaico. Hardy herb-
aceous perennial. Division. Light
soil.

RAMPION. Phyteuma and Cyphia
Phyteuma.

RAMPION. Campanula rnpunculus.

Soil and Situation. — The soil ought
to be moderately moist, but it must be
light. A shady rich border is most
favourable. If it is cloddy or subject

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492

RAN

to bind and crack in hot weather, the
plants will not thrive.

Time and Mode of Sowing, during
March, April, and M.iy,the plants from
sowing in the two first months, soon,
however, run up to seed.

The insertions are to be performed in
drills six inches apart.

The plants are to remain where sown ;
though in case of any deficiency, those
which are taken away in thinning the
crops, may be transplanted successfully,
if removed to a border similar to the
seed-bed, and inserted with the roots
perpendicular, and without pressing the
mould too close about them. The best
time for performing the removal is of an '
evening.

They are fit for thinning when of six
or eight weeks' growth, or when about
two inches in height; they must be set
at a distance of six inches apart, being
hoed at the time, and the same opera-
tion repeated two or three times.

The plants of the sowings during the
two first-mentioned months will be fit
for use at the close of August, or early
in September, and continue throughout
the autumn. Those of the last one will
continue good throughout the winter,
and until the following April.

The soil throughout their growth
must be kept moist by giving frequent
but moderate waterings through the fine
rose of a watering-pot, as required.

The root for which it is cultivated,
either to be sliced together with its
leaves in salads, or eaten as the radish,
as well as to be boiled like asparagus,
is most palatable when drawn young,
and eaten fresh from the ground.

To obtain Seed. — A few of the
winter-standing plants are left unmoved.
These shoot up in the spring, flowering
in July and August, and ripening abund-
ance of seed in early autumn. Nothing
more is necessary than to gather it be-
fore it begins to scatter, and to lay it on
a cloth to become perfectly dry before
thrashing.

RANDIA. Ten species. Stove ever-
green shrubs. Partly ripe cuttings.
Loam and peat, and a strong moist heat.

RANUNCULUS. One hundred and
two species, and many varieties. R.
asiaticus, the Garden Ranunculus, is
a truly beautiful flower, unfortunately
not adapted to the climate of the United
States.

Varieties: — Mr. Jackson, the florist

of Kingston, has published the follow-
ing selection : —

CLASS I. SELFS.

Q^lil Noir, very fine, dark rich colour ;
Naxara extra, fine dark (one of the best
of its class); Fete Nocturne, rich pur-
ple, fine; Duke of Bedford, large fine
formed, crimson ; Giles's Eliza, very
fine, straw, extra form, super variety ;
Costar's Apollo, very fine dark, rather
coarse ; Plaisance, very fine, yellow,
good form ; Les Vos, dark purple, very
fine ; Rosa Montana, superior bright
rosy crimson, excellent form; Tyso's
Nivis, fine white ; Costar's Tippoo Saib,
rich dark ; Condorcet, fine pure purple ;
Bouquet Nonpareil, dark olive, very fine.

CLASS II. ^

Flavimorus, cream, with purple edge,
very fine ; Tyso's Victoria, clear white,
with crimson edge, very fine ; Aust's
Henrietta, white, crimson-edged, good
shape, very fine; Horatio, yellow-edged,
fine free bloomer, not quite a pure
ground; Tyso's Herbert, yellow, with
red edge, very fine ; Temeraire, white,
red-striped (one of the best of its class);
Lightbody's William Penn, white, with
purple edge, very fine, strongly marked
ground, colour seldom pure; Melange
des Beautes, red and yellow-striped
(an excellent old flower, merits well
known) ; Tyso's Alexis, yellow-spotted,
extra fine, good form ; Tyso's Attractor,
white, with purple edge, large, very
fine ; Kilgour's Queen Victoria, cream,
crimson-edged, large, and extra fine ;
Costar's Coronation, half pink mottled,
very fine ; Grand Monarque, yellow-
edged, fine petals, rather loose ; Aust's
Nonsuch, white, purple-edged, distinct,
very fine; Tyso's Felix, buff", with dis-
tinct spot, extra fine ; Lightbody's No
JNIistake, cream, purple-edged, strong
marking, very fine ; Dr. Franklin, fine
clear white, with purple edge, very fine;
Tyso's Edgar, yellow-cofl^ee-edged, ex-
cellent form, extra fine ; Quentin Dur-
ward, yellow-edged, very fine colours,
rather thin ; Tyso's Delectus, yellow,
red-edged, very fine; Lightbody's Rob
Roy, cream, crimson edge, very fine;
Imbert, yellow, with faint-brown spot,
very good ; Tyso's Harmonius, yellow,
with dark spot, extra (one of the best of
its class); Herald, white, crimson-edged,
! very fine, excellent shape, high crown ;
' Tyso's Creon, buff", dark edging, very

RAN

493

RAN

fine; Glacia, yellow-mottled, large and must be dense and distinct; the purer
very line ; Paxos, white, vvith deep the white or yellow, and the more con-
purple edge, extra fine ; Biddal-s Duke irasted the edging or spotting is, the
of Wellington, yellow, delicate-edged, better the flower; in self's the more
very fine; Macrobius, white spotted, brilliant the colour is, the more likely

very fine*; Lightbody's Endymion, white, "- '^" .:..-. u... ... i.._ __ .l.

with delicate rose edging, very good ;

to be attractive ; but so long as the

colour is decided, the only advantage

Tyso's Premium, white, purple spot, that can be gained bycolour is novelty.

The outside of the petal should be as
bright as the inside.

If shown in a stand, there must not
be two alike : all the llowers in a row
should be of one size, and the back row
the largest."

Propagation. — By Seed. — To the Rev.
Joseph Tyso we are indebted for the
following directions : —

" Impregnate the double flowers with
the farina of the single ones. This can-
not be done with effect in every case ;
but whenever an old flower, with a
pericarpium or eye, gather a single or
semi-double flower, and apply the farina
to the eye of the double (lower.

" The seedlings will bear a striking
resemblance to the mother plant, as to
colour and habit of growth. The seed

very fine, high crown ; Aust's Queen
Victoria, white, with delicate edging,
very fine ; Saladin, fine yellow, with
faint spot; Sophia, cream, with rose
edge, very good ; Tyso's Vendome,
cream, with dark purple edge, e.iitra
fine, rather spotted : Waterstone's
Epirus, yellow - spotted, very fine. —
Gard. Chron.

Character Sportive. — " There is in
the ranunculus what is by florists called
a sportive character — that is, they run
from their original colour. Some that
have yellow ground, delicately spotted,
will come plain yellow, and some red
and white striped will come plain red ;
sometimes the colours will mix, and
the flowers will become dingy." —
Gard. Chron.

" Sometimes the flowers will be as may be sown at all seasons, from the
green as the grass of the plants from 1st of August to the 1st of March,
which they grow. Some of the finest the middle or latter end of October,
seedlings are weak, and therefore die and the beginning of January. Sow in
in a few years, though for a short time boxes eighteen inches by eleven inches.

they had great renown. Such has been
the case with Abbe St. Andrew, Quixos
Viol le Vrai Noir, Grand Berger, and
Rose Incomparable, and some others of

and four inches deep, full of loamy
earth, and the surface level. Sow the
seeds about an eighth of an inch apart;
cover them as thinly as possible, and

later date. But there are others of water with a fine rose ; but place the
first-rate character which are remark- boxes under glass, without heat. The
ably strong, and increase abundantly, plants usually make their appearance
such as Attractor, Felix, Saladin, Ed- ; in about a month. Give air day and

gar, Eureka, Victor, and many others. '■
—Ihid.

Characteristics of a Good Flower. —
"The form of the ranunculus should

night, except in severe frost ; then cover
up with straw mats. With such pro-
tection, the young plants will endure
the severest seasons. Clean the surface

be two-thirds of a ball; petals, broad, of the boxes from green moss in Feb-

thick, free from notch ^r indentation, ruary, and top dress them. Put the

cupping a little, and 0 disposed that boxes in the open ground up to the

each cover the place where the two second week in May, and water daily

under ones join ; commonly concealing until the grass begins to wither; then

the anthers, abundance of petals lying sufi'er the boxes to become quite dry ;

close over each other, and forming a and in the middle of July, take them

compact flower, open enough to show up, and preserve the roots in bags until

the colour on their inside, but not February, and then plant them as the

enough to be loose; and the under general stock. In the following June

ones must hold well in their places, they flower in great profusion." — Gard.

forming a square, if not a hollow back. Mag.

The stem thick, strong, and elastic; By Offsets. — -'Unlike the ofisets of

but the flower upright, and from one ' the hyacinth and tulip, those of the

and a half to two inches in diameter, ranunculus generally attain perfection
The colour is a matter of taste, but ] in the season of their formation on the

RAN

494

RAN

parent plant, and are, therefore, fit to I will not reach it at all, or if they do,
be planted as full grown tubers the their sudden transition into deep corn-
same season in which they are removed. ' post is at least unnatural: it is more
Smaller ones, which are unfit to bloom ' consonant with reason that the food
the following year, may be planted in a ! should be generally and equally dis-
hed prepared, as to be directed for the ' tributed." — Card. Chron.
full sized roots." ! Planting. — "The bed being about

By Dividing the Tubers. — In minutely I four feet in width," adds Dr. Horner,
examining the crown of a ranunculus '" and any suitable length, and having
root, several small protuberances will ; been neatly smoothed over, the roots
be found, from each of which a shoot | should be planted about five inches
will arise, and the root may, therefore, j distant from each other in rows, which,
be divided by a sharp knife into as ! again, should be about six inches apart,
many parts as there are protuberances; If planted closer, as is commonly the
and "thus the danger of losing any rare case, the plants will grow comparatively
variety is much diminished. These j weak, and bloom more sparingly.

sections will not bloom till the second
year." — Hort. Trans.

Soil. — Mr. Hovy of Boston, one of
the best of the American horticulturists,
is quite right in recommending, as " the
best soil tor the ranunculus, a strong
rich mellow loam ; but good garden
loam, enriched with very old cow ma-
nure, or leaf-mould, will answer — fresh
mould, however, will insure a much
better bloom."

" A somewhat moist and cool situa-
tion," says Dr. Horner, one of the best
of amateur floriculturists, " is the most
suitable. The bed, therefore, should
be so situated that it receive but a few
hours of the morning sun, and be in the
lowest part of the garden. It must not
be raised higher than the surrounding
walks ; should be two feet in depth of
soil, and have board instead of box
edging, that slugs, &c., which often eat
the tender foliage and opening flower-
buds of some varieties, may not be
sheltered. The only suitable soil is a
retentive loam, from the surface of a
rich old pasture, the sods included ; to
which should be added, and well in

The situation of the rows having
been marked out, holes, one and a half
inch deep, should be dibbled with the
finger, or other instrument, in which
the roots should be compactly set, and
covered over with soil, after the manner
of dibbling beans, by this means the
surrounding soil is not disturbed, but
left close and retentive.

" The next best plan is drawing drills
across the beds in rows, setting the
roots therein, and then filling them up
with the displaced soil ; the worst of all
plans being the raking the bed evenly
over, setting the roots on it, and then
covering the whole one and a half inch
with loose soil — yet this is commonly
practised." — Ibid.

Choice of Roots. — Mr. Glenny recom-
mends " the middle sized, with firm
tubers and plump buds, as preferable
for planting; and care should be taken
to place a little sand under and over
each, to guard them against too much
moisture." — Gard. and Pract. Florist.

General Management. — " About the
beginning of April," says Dr. Horner,

the young plants will appear above

corporated, one third of thoroughly- ground, when the loosened soil should
decayed cow manure. Fresh manure , be carefully yet firmly compressed with
must be avoided, as the roots will not ; the fingers abAt the roots,
bloom where it exists, but many will j «< During the months of April and
perish. All hot and stimulating com- May, should a continuance of dry
posts are equally pernicious. With the : weather prevail, water may be cautious-
enriched soil just recommended, the ly administered at intervals in an even-

bed should be made at the beginning
of October, and finished off, and, on no
account, disturbed till planting time ;
for it is all important that the soil be
compact and close in which the roots
are planted.

ing, but only just so much as will pre-
vent the soil of the bed from cracking;
or a little moss, or old spent tanner's
bark, &c., may be neatly placed be-
tween the rows, which will retain the
moisture in the soil. The injudicious

" The practice of putting some inches and over abundant application of water
of manure at the bottom of the bed is i is a very common error, and one of the
not to be commended ; the roots either j greatest evils. It not unfrequently hap-

RAN

495

RAP

pens that plants, which have looked
well for a time, at length begin to turn
yellow in the foliage, and the flower
buds dwindle and go off.

" The dying of the leaves in some in-

be put into paper bags." — Gard. and
Prac. Flor.

Late Succession of Blooms. — To ob-
tain this, wo have ihe following direc-
tions by Mr. H. Groom, the well known

stances evidently depends on a want of florist :-
vigour, or partial rot in the root ; and, 1 " The beds are prepared in the usual
in some few cases, it would appear to manner, the ground immediately after-
be caused by large earthworms, forming wards well watered with lime water;
their wide tracks amid the roots of the but to destroy the worms, which are
plants, nearly undermining them ; but otherwise apt to draw the roots from
in the great majority of cases, it is pro- ! their places; afterwards water with

duced by injudicious watering.

1 clear cow-dung water, until the foliage

During the expansion of the flower makes its appearance. The beds are

buds, and when they are fully blown, a
stage and awning should be erected
over the bed, as in the case of tulips,
that rain and hot sun may be excluded ;
and gentle watering every second or

then kept shaded from nine in the morn-
ing till five or six in the evening, till the
bloom is over. For a bloom all the sea-
son, commence in February, and plant
every fortnight or three weeks; in Sep-

third evening, may be given, which will ' tember, plant in a frame, and you will
keep the bed cool and moist, and pro- have a bloom about January or Februa-
mote the size of the flower. As much | ry." — Hart. Trans.

air should be admitted as possible, that
the flower-stems be not drawn and
weakened." — Gard. Citron.

Protection during Winter. — This
is essential ; and the following plan,
adopted by Mr. (ilenny, is excellent : —

Forcing. — Mr. Bouche of Berlin, a
florist, gives these directions : —

" Select tubers which have been kept
three or four months, or even a year,
over the season of planting, these being
more easily excited than those which

Let the bed be made just the size have been only the usual time out of the
of a cucumber frame; place one of [ soil, plant them in pots about the be-
these on the bed, and if there is danger j ginning of August; and, by bringing
of heavy rains, or severe weather, put these into the green-house at diflierent
on the sashes. As soon as heavy frost periods, a bloom is kept up from Octo-
sets in, the whole of the interior of the ber to February." — Gard. Mag.
frame must be filled with leaves, and ! RAPE, or COLESEED. Brassicana-
the sashes replaced, and a few hoards ' pus esculentns. I ike mustard and other
laid on to keep the leaves from blowing '■ small salading, it may be sown at any
away. In this manner, the whole may period of the year, when in request,
remain until April, or until all danger being allowed a separate bed. It ia

of frost is over, when the leaves, frames,
&c., may be entirely removed." —
Gard. and Prac. Flor.

Taking up the Roots. — Upon this
point, the same excellent authority di-
rects this to be done " a fortnight after
the last flowers have faded, when the
foliage looks yellowish. It is a very
nice operation, and should not be done

cultivated as Mustard, which see.

To obtain Seed. — Some plants of a
sowing made about the middle of July
must be thinned to eighteen inches
apart; they will survive the winter, and
flower in the May and June of the next
year. The seed, which is produced in
great abundance, ripens in July and
August, and must be cut as it does so,

hastily. The best way is to pare off ancl laid upon cloths to dry, as it is very
three inches of the sod into a sieve, if apt to shed.

the bed is composed of mixed sorts, } RAPE (EDIBLE-ROOTED). This
and then, by shaking out the earth, the name may be applied to a variety of the
roots will remain. rape mentioned by Mr. Dickson, one of

"When the varieties are named, the vice-presidents of the Horticultural
they must be taken up singly, and put Society. Its root is white and carrot-
in a box correctly labeled. They must shaped, about the size of the middle-
not be placed in the sun, but may be finger. It is much more delicate in
carried to a dry room, where they may flavour than the turnip, like which root
remain till the earth is sufficiently dry it is cooked, only that it is not peeled
to shake off easily, when they should | but scraped, its skin being rntnarkably

RAP

496

R AS

thin. It has been cultivated for a great
length of years on the continent, and
for about thirty years in this country ;
but only by one person, as far as Mr.
Dickson is aware.

Time of Sowing. It is propagated by
seed, which, for the main crop, may be
sown from the middle of July to the
end of August, or even later.. These
will supply the table until April ; and
if wanted throughout the year, a little
may be sown in the latter end of Octo-
ber, the plants from which vvill be fit
for use, if they succeed during April
and May : the last crop to be inserted
from the middle of January to the mid-
dle of February, which will come in at
the end of May and during June. On
a north border, and if the soil is sandy
and moist, it is possible to have them
sweet and tender during the whole
summer, to effect which the seed must
be sown at the close of March and May.

Cultivation is the same as turnips. In
dry weather the beds must be watered
regularly until the plants have got three
or four leaves.

Soil. — One great advantage attending
the cultivation of this vegetable is, that
it requires no manure. Any soil that is
poor and light, especially if sandy, is
suitable to it. In rich manured earth it
grows much larger, but not so sweet
and good.

To obtain seed. — Mr. Dickson recom-
mends, in February or March, some of
the finest roots to be transplanted to
two feet asunder; but it would perhaps
be a better practice to leave them where
grown. The ground is to be hoed re-
peatedly, and kept clear of weeds. The
seed must be cut as soon as ripe, and
treated as directed for turnips, &c.

RAPHANUS. Three species. Har-
dy annuals, except R. landra, which is
an herbaceous perennial. Seed. Rich
mould. See Radish.

RAPHIOLEPIS. Four species.
Half-hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam, peat, and sand.

RASPAILIA microphylla. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Young cuttings.
Sandy peat.

RASPBERRY. Rubus idaus.

Best Varieties. — Red. — Fastolff, or
Bee-hive, Franconia, Antwerp, red ;
Barnet ; Cornish; Double-bearing, and
Gennessee.

Yellow. — Antwerp, yellow; Cox's
Honey; Old white.

The Fastolff (Fig. 142) has been " re-
cently received from England, where
it was raised or discovered near the
castle of that name. It has produced
fruit at Philadelphia the two past sea-
sons, and quite equals its transatlantic
character, which is higher than that of
any of its tribe. The fruit is large, deep
red, inclining to purple, well flavoured,
and yielded longer than usual. Such was
the description written before the fruit
of the present year (1846) had matured ;
another season's observation has con-
firmed it. The annexed drawing, ac-
curately copied from nature, has been
supplied by Doctor William D. Brinckle.
The plants are yet scarce, and conse-
quently higher priced than the old va-
rieties ; but from its adaptation to our
climate, it will, it is hoped, be speedily
increased, and widely distributed — so
valuable an acquisition one could desire
to see domesticated in every garden in
the land." — Rural Reg.

The Franconia was " imported from
France some years since; it is hardy,
fruitful, and may be safely recommend-
ed as in all respects desirable. This is,
perhaps, taking all its merits into ac-
count, next in value to the Fastolff'."
— Rural Reg.

Propagation by Seed. — New varieties
are easily raised from seed. Wash
away the pulp from some of the finest
thoroughly ripe fruit, dry the seed, and
sow it the same autumn in a dry border,
giving it the shelter of a frame through
the winter. Trim and plant out the
seedlings to remain in the autumn fol-
lowing, and they will bear in the suc-
ceeding summer.

By Suckers. — These spring from the
root annually, and grow from three to
five feet in height the same year, form-
ing plants by autumn or winter for
transplanting, to bear fi uit the following
summer.

Planting maybe done any time from
October till March, the earlier the bet-
ter, in open weather. Raise the plants
carefully with plenty of fibres; shorten
any long straggling root; and cut off
any naked woody part of the root of
the old stool, observing at the same
time, if one or more buds appear near
the root, they, being the embryo of
future shoots, must be very carefully
preserved ; and shorten each sucker at
top to about three or more feet long,
according to their strength — they are

4D7
Fig. 142.— vP. 496.)

1^ h.

u-

32

RASPBERRY.

R AS

49S

RED

then ready for planting : having previ- [ Mr. Mearns recommends, "in May
ously to this chosen an open spot of! the removal of the young fruit-bearing
good ground and trenched it, put in the ! shoots from the canes, leaving in some
plants as soon as possible, in rows a I cases one or two eyes, in others cutting
yard and a half apart, and a yard asun- them clean off. Under either plan they
der in the rows. If planted closer the I soon show an abundance of vigorous
plants, producing numerous suckers in ' shoots, frequently three or four from
summer, grow so close as to exclude each eye, which produce plenty of blos-
the due influence of sun and air from soms in the beginning of Julv, and on
the fruit, as well as render it trouble- ^ these a good crop of fine raspberries is
some to gather the produce. If the ! borne in August." — Hort. Trans.

planting is performed late in the spring,
give a good watering, and repeat it oc-
casionally till the plants have struck
fresh root.

After-Culture. — Keep them clean
from weeds all summer by broad hoe-
ins, giving an annual dressing in au-

Training. — The earliest and finest
are obtained from canes planted beneath
a south wall, and trained against it in
this form. (Fig. 143.) But in the open
ground the best mode of training is
round small hoops, thus. (Fig. 144.)
The worst form is plaiting the canes

tumn, cutting down the decayed stems j together; and training in arches or other

that bore the preceding summer. Thin
the young succession bearers; clear
away all intermediate suckers between
those of the main stocks ; and then
point with a fork the ground betvveen
the rows.

Previous to the above-mentioned an-
nual dressing of raspberries, observe
that, as they produce a fresh supply of
shoots or suckers every year for bear-
ing the next, therefore the annual dress-
ing be performed anytime from October
till March. First proceed to clear out
all the decayed stems, being last sum-
mer's bearers, breaking them down
close to the bottom ; then examine the
supply of young shoots for next year's
bearing. In March select three or four
of the strongest shoots on each stool,
cutting all the others away close to the
ground ; shorten those left according
to their strength, cutting them genera

compact forms, excluding the light and
warmth of the sun, is little better.

Forcing. — Raspberries may be forced
growing either in pots or in the borders
of the house. They may be also plant-
ed on the outside of a pit, the bearing
canes being introduced withinside and
ly a little below the bend, at the top of, trained to a trellis, whilst the present

the shoots, to about three or four feet ^ year's^shoots are left outside.
in length, both to render them more
robust, to support themselves more
firmly upright in summer, and to pro-
mote a stronger supply of laterals for
flowering and fruiting. Allow them a
little rotten dung or leaf-mould once
every other year, applying it in the
spring. Make a plantation every four

or five years in a fresh spot of ground ; evergreen shrubs or trees
as, after that period of time, the plants, ' Loam, peat, and sand,
although they may continue shooting ^

with tolerable vigour, yet are apt to be
less fruitful, and the fruit smaller, than
in younger plantations in fresh ground.
— Abercrombie.

Autumn Crop. — To obtain of the
Antwerp, and other large varieties.

RATABIDA columnaris, and its va-
riety. Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Division or seeds. Common soil.

RATTLESNAKE FERN. Botrichium
virginicum.

RATTLESNAKE ROOT. Folygala
senega.

RAUWOLFIA. Four species. Stove
Cuttings.

REAUMURIA. Two species. Half-
hardy evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Loam, peat, and sand.

RED BAY. Laurus carolinensis.

RED CEDAR. Juniper us virgiriiana.

RED GUM TREE. Eucalyptus re-
sinifera.

RED

499

REN

RED NIGHTSHADE. Erica Hali- in tan and labour is also very grest ;
cacaba. in some places tan is expensive, and

RED SPIDER. See Acarus. \ where it is cheaper, the trouble and

REEDS. See Shelter. ; litter incident to its emiiloyinent, and

REEV'ESIAr/i!/7-so(rfea. Green-house the dangers of loss from fungi and in-
evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings, with sects, of which it is the peculiarly
the leaves. Light turfy loam, or loam ; fertile foster-parent, render it objec-
and peat. i tionable as a source of heat. And

R EH M AN fs I A chinensis. Hardy Whenever the tan has to be renewed,
herbaceous perennial, but it succeeds the trouble and destruction of plants is
best in a cool green-bouse. Cuttings, always great.
Common soil. I "In my new propagating house,"

REICH A RBI A hexapetala. Stove says Mr. Rendle, " the tank or cistern
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich soil ! is placed in the centre, with a walk
and a strong heat. I surrounding it, so as to enable the

RELHANIA. Five species. Green- ^ propagator with greater ease to attend
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. I to the plants, &c.
Loamy soil.

RENANTHERA
Stove orchids. Cuttings

'On the outside of the bouse is a
Three species, j fire-shed, in which the boiler is fixed.
I'eat mixed I The tank, made of wood, one and a
vith broken potsherds, moss, or wood, half or two inches thick, which I find
RENDLE'S TANK SYSTEM. First' the cheapest material, (it also prevents
suggested, I believe, by Mr. Rendle, | the water cooling so fast as it does
nurseryman, of Plymouth. I have given, I either in stone or iron,) may be lined
in the customary monthly calendars, the ' with lead or zinc. Exactly in the cen-
necessary intimations when the bark- j tre of the tank is a partition, serving
beds will probably require stirring, but ' the double purpose of causing the water
those troublesome, uncertain, and dan-! to circulate, (as well as to support the
gerous operations, dangerous to the edges of the slates,) an aperture being
plants, are entirely rendered needless ' left in the partition, of about two inches
by Mr. Rcndlc's plan. It has been i in breadth, to allow the water a free
adopted by some of the best practical j passage. The flow-pipe enters near

gardeners with entire satisfaction.

the appendage of the tank, at the mouth

A tank of iron or wood, twenty feet of which pi()e a ])iece of perforated
long, five feet broad, and six inches, copper is placed, as also at the return-
deep, is constructed in the centre of pipe, to prevent dirt and sediment from
the house, and surrounded by a walk, finding its w-ay into the boiler. After
except at the end, where the boiler is everything is properly fixed, the tank
fixed for heating it. The top of the is filled with water, which, of course,

tank is covered with large slabs of at the same time fills the boiler

slate, cemented together, to prevent The tank is about four inches deep,
the excessive escape of steam. Around Across it, and resting on its sides, are
this is a frame sufficiently high to re- placed slate stones about an inch and a

tain the bark, in which the pots are
plunged. The boiler and tank are
filled with water, and this circulates,
when the fire is lighted under the
former, by means of two pipes, one
from the top of the boiler, and the

half thick, cut square at the edges.
These are fistened to each other bv
Roman cement, or Aberthaw lime, to
prevent a superfluity of steam from

escaping into the house Around

the edges of the slates a piece of inch

other returning nearer to its bottom, board, about nine inches deep, should
The expense of piping, and danger of be placed to enclose the sawdust, sand,
their freezing, is avoided ; the fire only moss, or other plunging material.

requires to be kept lighted for two
hours at night, and again for the same

In the following sketch, for which,
as well as for the next, I am indebted

period in the morning; the water, to Mr. Rendle, ^4 is a transverse see-

when once heated, retaining its tem-
perature for a long time. In a small
house, the apparatus can be constructed
for 5/., and in all, for less than half the

tion of Rogers's conical boiler; B is
the fireplace ; g, the tank : c, the flow-
pipe; d, the pif)e by which the water
returns to the boiler; e, is the hole for

cost of hot-water pipes. The saving the smoke, which, joined to aflue, /,

REQ

500

RH A

can be made either to ascend the chim-
ney at once, or to pass round the house.

Fiff. 145.

The next sketch is a Pinery,
up with Mr. Rendle's tank.

Fig. 146.

fitted

It is described as " a very useful and
most desirable structure for the growth
of the Pine Apple, with a hollow wall,
recommended by all garden architects
in preference to a solid wall — the heat
or cold being not so readily conducted
as through a solid mass of masonry."
Mr. Rendle might have added, that
hollow walls are also much drier. —
Rendle's Treatise on the Tank Systetn.
See Stove, &c.

REQVIENIA obcardata. Stove ever-
green shrub. Young cuttings. Peat,
loam, and sand.

RESEDA. Mignonette. Seventeen
species. Chiefly hardy annuals, bien-
nials, herbaceous perennials, and a few
green-house evergreens. Cuttings or
seeds. Light rich soil. See Mignon-
ette.

perature, and the least degree of light
compatible with healthy growth must
be secured ; and to this end plants for
succession are often placed on the
north side of a wall.

Then again, as in the case o^ rasp-
berries and strawberries, plants are
often cutdown in the spring, compelling
them to form fresh foliage and stems,
and thus be productive in the autumn
instead of the summer.

The vegetation of many bulbs may
be prevented by merely keeping them
dry, and, indeed, the withholding the
usual supply of water, giving it only in
diminished quantities, is necessary in
all retarding treatment. To secure the
entire quiescence of bulbs, and of sucli
plants as will bear so low a tempera-
ture, the atmosphere of the ice-house
is effectual ; and to this end it should
have a few shelves for the support of
boxes or flower pots. Banks o^ earth
ranging east and west, and facing the
north at a very acute angle, are very
useful in retarding the early advance to
seed in hot weather, of spinach, let-
tuces, &c. Espaliers ranging similarly,
and shaded during the whole of March,
and the two following months, will
blossom later and more unfailingly than
trees more exposed to the sun in spring.
Similar exclusion of heat and light re-
tards the ripening of picked fruit, and
if the air be excluded from them, or
its oxygen withdrawn, fruit will remain
unripened for weeks. To efl'cct this,
put a paste formed of lime, sulphate of
iron, and water, at the bottom of a
wide-mouthed glass bottle, then a layer
of large pebbles to keep the fruit from
the paste, — then fill the bottle with
peaches, apricots, or plums, gathered
a few days before they are ripe, cork
the bottle tight, and cover the cork
with melted resin. They have been
thus kept for a month, and summer
apples and pears for three months.
They ripen when again exposed to the
air.

RHAMNUS. Thirty-eight species.
Chiefly hardy evergreen, or deciduous
shrubs, or trees. Layers, seeds. Com-
mon soil. The few stove and green-

RETARDING requires as much skil
as forcing, for as the latter requires the : house kinds, increase by cuttings; and
application of all that is suitable to the • require a light soil,
promotion of a plant's rapid healthy ! RHAPIS. Two species. Dwarfish
growth, so retarding requires the with- palms. Suckers. Sandy loam,
holding from it of those contingencies, i RHAPONTICA. Four species.
Thus to retard growth, the lowest tein- , Hardy herbaceous perennials, except

RH E

601

RH 0

R. pulchra, ■Khich is a biennial. Divi- cies, and many varieties. Hardy and

sion. Common soil. half-hardy evergreen shrubs, except R.

R H E E D I A javanica. Stove ever- rhodora, which is deciduous and hardy,

green tree. Ripe cuttings. Pe^t, loa.m, • R. ponticitm, Common Rhododendron,

and sand. R. maximum ; R. Caucasicum ; R. cam-

R HEM AN E.I A ckinensis. IWrdy panulatum ; and R. Catawbiensis, are
shrub. Cuttings and layers. Rich light the best hardy species. It is to be re-
loam, gretted that such a noble evergreen

RHEUM. Rhubarb. Fifteen spe- shrub as R. maxiinum should be so sel-

cies. Hardy fusiform-rooted peren- dom seen in our grounds. Here in the

nials. Division or seed. Rich loamy United States, where it is indigenous,

soil. See Rhubarb.

it is really less known than in England,

RHEXIA. Four species. Hardy herb- where it forms one of the main features

aceous perennials. Division. Peat soil, of the undergrowth in lawns and plea^

R HINOPETALUM karelini. sure grounds, — when will Americans

Hardy tuberous-rooted perennial. Off- learn to estimate as they deserve, their

sets. Light rich soil. own natural products! From the above

RHIPODENDRON plicatile, and its named species have been obtained the

variety. Green-house evergreen shrubs, following superior
Suckers or leaves slightly planted.

Sandy loam and peat.

RHODANTHE min^lfsii.

Varieties. — R. Russellianum, scarlet ;
R. Lowei, pale straw; R. tigrinum,
fireen- pale rose: R. nobleanum, dark red ;

house annual. Dr. Lindiey recommends R. splendidum, (Cunningham's,) white ;
that " its seeds should be sown at two | R. altaclerence, scarlet; R. multimacu-
seasons: the first about the beginning latum, pale rose, spotted ; R. arboreum
of September; the second about the roseum, bright rose ; R.Victoria, deep
end of February. The soil the seeds red; R. venustum, pink ; R. augustum,
are sown in should be rather strong, pale flesh spotted ; 11. pulcherrimum,
but not rich, for the first sowing, con- scarlet ; R. grandiflorum, (Cunning-
sisting of a mixture of sandy loam and | ham'Sjl pale flesh; R. macranthum,
leaf-mould. They should be sown in rose; R. Knightii, scarlet ; and R. Car-
pots and placed in a cold pit or frame, ! narvonianum, bright rose,
if sown in the autumn, which should be Hybrids with Azalea. — R. Adonsonii ;
kept close until the plants are up. The R. Azaleoides; R. azaleoides album ;
young plants should be potted otf when R. fragrans; R. luteum; and R. Gow-
emall, for if allowed to get large before ' erianum.

potting, they never do any good ; put a Green-house Species and Varieties. —
single plant into a small sixty-pot, they ' R. anthopogon, purple ; R. arboreum
must then be returned to the pit or cinnamomeum, reddish purple ; R. lap-
frame, and keptclose until they recover ponicum, crimson; R. setosuni, purple,
the effects of the shift ; afterwards hard- i Characteristics of Excellence. — Mr.
en by admitting air. Then when there Glenny gives the following good crite-
is danger of frost, remove them to an ria : — " The flower large, circular, and
airy part of the green-house for the campanulated, or hollow like a globular
winter, taking care that they are not cup. The five divisions of the petals
over watered ; for much depends on should be concealed by means of the
the manner in which they are treated lapping over. The petal thick, smooth-
during the winter, as too much or too edged, and stiff. The truss, pyramidal
little water will destroy the healthiest or dome-shaped, standing clear of the
plants in a short time. In the spring, foliage; the flower compact, touching,
February, repot them into a richer but but not crowding each other; footstalks
light sandy soil, and place them in a stifle and elastic. The colour brilliant,
warmer and moister situation, and pinch ! the spots distinct and contrasted, and
off'all the first flowers as they appear. ! stand well without fading. The plant

" The spring-sown plants may be should be bushy, the foliage bright,
treated like other half-hardy annuals, clear, green, large, and disposed ail
only they must have plenty of air to round the branch, especially round the
keep them from being drawn up weak- ' flower ; the stems should be well cover-
]y," — Card. Chron. \ ed with leaves, and the bloom should

RHODODENDRON. Twentv-six spe- be abundant. It should not bloom

RH 0

502

RHO

until the middle of May, if hardy, for pots requires much care ; the best and
those flowering before the frosts have easiest way is to plunge the pots to the
ceased, have the hioorns spoiled." — rim in coal ashes, and siill have frames
Gai'd. and Prac. Flor. over them for the purpose of preserving

Propagaiion. — By Seed. — The same 1 them trom excessive wet, heat, and
good tloricultural authority gives these cold. When they have perfected a
excellent directions: — " The seed ves- second growth, and are resting, shil\
sels must be gathered as soon as ripe, ' them into forty-eight sized pots, and

treat them as before, and so continue
shifting from size to size until they
flower." — Gard. and Prac. Flor. —
Gard. Chron.

Raising Varieties is best done in
April from forced plants, the two in-
tended to be bred from being brought
into bloom at the same time. They
should be widely different in colour,
or form, or habit, or some peculiarity
which may be desirable to combine in
one. Hybrids may be obtained by im-
' pregnating the Rhododendron with pol-
len from the Azalea.

Grafting. — Mr. Glenny gives these

and before they burst; let them lie in

a drawer in the stove or green-house,

or a sunny window, to burst and give

out their seed : sow immediately ; and,

to sow thin enough, mix it with twenty

times its quantity of the smallest sand.

Sow in pots with good drainage, and the

following compost. One lialf rich loam,

such as the top spit of an old meadow,

sifted through a coarse sieve ; the other

half the best peat or bog earth, such as

is formed of the half-decayed fibres

broken into pieces and rubbed through

the same sieve ; by knocking the bottom

of the pan or pot on the potting table or

bench, the compost will be solid enough directions : — " Young plants of the R.

without pressing ; level it and sow very Ponticum must be potted and well es-

thinly ; then with a fine sieve, sift a lit- tablished before you want to use them.

tie of the compost on the seeds very Cut them down within three inches of

evenly, and only just enough to cover ; the pot, and adopt the mode of saddle

tliem ; over this put a little tine sand,
not more than one sixteenth of an inch

grafting. See Grafting.

" Let the bark of the stock and scion

deep. Take a brush about the texture , touch, if possible, all over ; but as the
and strength of a clothes brush, dip it stock may be, and often is, the largest,
in water, turn its hairs upwards, point- i let the bark fit perfectly on one side,
ing at the seeds, draw your hand along ' and fall short on the other. The plants
the hairs towards you, and they will i should be placed after the operation in
throw off" an almost imperceptible show- a garden frame kept from the air for a
er of moisture, by means of which the j day or two, and shaded altogether from

whole surface can be fairly wetted with
out disturbing a seed or a grain of the \
compost. When the seedlings have i
four good leaves, prick out into other
pans of the same kind of compost, three j
inches apart, carefully raising them !
without disturbing the surface to hurt
the more backward seedlings, and the

the sun. Side-grafting and inarching
are better modes of increase for the
Rhododendron than saddle-grafting. In
order to insure success, August or Sep-
tember is the best time for budding or
grafting Rhododendrons in the open
air. This plant being thin-rinded does
best by side-grafting, and buds of it had

pan may be put back to its place, for j also better be inserted after the manner
the seeds will continue coming up for a of side-grafting, with a portion of the
considerable time. When pricked out, soft wood retained behind the bud." —
they should be watered, and afterwards Gard. Chron. — Gard. and Prac. Flor.
regularly. Though in the green-house [ Grafting may be done at almost any
keep them under hand-glasses for a few ' season of the year, and even the Chinese
days until re-established, after which ; Azalea may be inarched upon them. In

summer, if a low stock be employed, it
is sufficient to turn over it a hand-glass;
but if the grafting be in the spring or
autumn, to obtain success a little bot-
tom heat is necessary.

Other Modes of Propagation. — Lay-
ering and inarching may both be suc-
cessfully practised with the Rhododeu-

they may be removed to a cold frame,
or put out of doors. Shade from the
mid-day sun, weed regularly, and care- ;
fully tend until they have grown to
touch each other. They should then
be potted in sixties in the same kind of j
soil. They have now only to be keptj
from getting dry, which in such small ,

RHU

503

RHU

(Iron, but require no particular direc-
tions. Cuttings will also sometimes
succeed, and if a branch is desirably
removable let it be cut off. The cut-
tings should be only half ripe. Plant
in a large sized pot, two-thirds full of

the Tobolsk ; Gigantic ; Victoria, (best;)
and Bucks or Elford.

Soil and Situation. — The soil best
suited to these plants is light, rich,
deep, unshaded, and moderately moist.
\ poor heavy or shallow soil never pro-

the compost, cover with a glass, fitting duces them in perfection

within the rim of the pot: place in a Sou'ing. — It may be propagated by

frame, with a trifling bottom-heat, or in cuttings, but the mode almost univer-

a common propagating house; or, for sally practised is by seed. Sow soon

want of a better accommodation, in a after it is ripe, in September or October,

greenhouse or cold garden frame. The for if kept out of the ground until the

glass must be wiped clean every morn- spring, it often continues dormant for

ing, and the sand kept moist. Neglect twelve months : if the danger of this,

of watering is fatal. When the cuttings however, is risked, sow early in Feb-

are struck they must be treated as seed- ruary or March, in drills three feet

lings. — Gard. and Prac. Flor.

apart, and an inch deep, tlie plants to

Soil for Out-door Kinds. — A light remain where raised ; for although they
loam, manured annually with a mixture will bear removing, yet it always checks
of peat and leaf-mould suits them best, and somewhat lessens their growth.
The subsoil should be retentive, for if| When they make their appearance in.

very dry they will not flourish.
Pruning. — They require but

little

the spring, and have been thoroughly
cleared of weeds, thin to six or eight

pruning, except to remove superfluous , inches asunder, and let the surface of
branches, &c., and this is best done in the ground about them be loosened
April. Mr. Glenny says that old plants \ with the hoe. At the close of summer.

which have become bare at the bottor
are easily converted into standards by
selecting the largest bare stem, cutting
all the rest away, and pruning the head I
into shape. If the stem be growing out

when it can be determined which are
the strongest plants, finally thin to three
or four feet, or the Gigantic and Victo-
ria to six. In autumn remove the de-
cayed leaves, and point in a little well

slopingly, you have only to dig up the 1 putrefied stable-dung, and earth up the

plant and place it upright.

stools. In the spring hoe the bed, and

Green-house Culture. — Whilst grow- i as the stalks when blanched, are much
ing, that is from about the end of April less harsh in taste, require less sugar to
to the middle of June, keep them in a , be rendered palatable, and are greatly
temperature of which the extreme at '
night and in the day are 45^ and GQo.
Supply them liberally with water during :
that time, and then remove them to a
cool situation out of doors, otherwise
they will be super-luxuriant and not
flower. t

improved in appearance, dig a trench
between the rows, and the earth from
it place about a foot thick over the stool.
This covering must be removed when
the cutting ceases, and the plants allow-
ed to grow at liberty. As the earth in
wet seasons is apt to induce decay, the

Forcing. — To obtain early flowers, covering may be advantageously formed
place some potted plants in a very gen- of coal ashes or drift sand.

tie heat the last week in December.

To obtain Seed. — Those plants pro-

RHUBARB. Rheum rhaponticum, R.\ dvicc the seed in greatest perfection
hybridum, R. undulatum, and R. palma- I that are not gathered from, but on no

turn. This last is the medicinal
Turkey Rhubarb of the shops — the es-
culent one or pie-plant, as it is familiar-
ly termed, has become quite a common
inmate of our American gardens; its
early growth, affording facility for pies
and tarts, long before green fruit can be

account must they be subjected to the
process of blanching. Two year old
plants often produce seed, but in their
third yearalways. It must be gathered as
soon as ripe, and great care taken that
none is scattered over the beds, for the
plants thence produced often spring up.

obtained, and its close resemblance in and greatly injure the old plants by

flavour to the gooseberry, render it al
most indispensable

growing unobserved amongst them.
Forcing. — Plant a single row three

Varieties. — There are several varie- ■ feet apart in ground that has been
ties, of which the most preferable are trenched two spades deep, and dressed

RHU

504

RIC

with well putrefied dung at the time.
The forcing may commence in Decem-
ber ; first cover either with sea-kale or
common garden pots (twelves), but
chimney pots are still better, the leaf-
stalks becoming much longer and finer,
and envelope them with fermenting
dung. When well up, the pots are re-
moved, except when chimney pots are
used, and large hand-glasses substi-
tuted; covering is required every night,
and in dull weather with thick mats.

the roots are placed on a level with
each other, and about an inch belowr
the surface. These being covered with
inverted pots of the same size, may be
placed in a vinery or hot-bed, and on
the approach of spring, probably any
time after January, any room or cellar
will be sufficiently warm. If copiously
supplied with water, the plants vege-
tate rapidly and vigorously, and each
pot will produce three successional
cuttings, the first two being the most

By this mode the plants are very liable plentiful. As soon as the third is ga-

to be broken, as their leaves soon touch thered, the roots may be changed, and

the sides. A frame is much less objec- those removed replajited in the ground,

tionable, formed by driving stakes into when they will attain sufficient strength

the ground on each side of the bed, al- to be forced again in a year's time. If

ternating with the plants. These are to not, it is of little consequence, foryear-

be three feet high above ground, and the old roots raised from cuttings, or even

space between the two rows of stakes
two feet at the bottom, but approach-
ing each other, and fastened by cross
pieces, so as to be only fifteen inches
apart at top. To the sides and top stout
laths are fixed to prevent the dung fall

seed sown in autumn, are sufficiently
strong for use."

Propagation by Division. — Mr. Ro-
gers, a successful cultivator, says, that
" when the rhubarb is propagated by
the root, care must be taken to retain a

the accompanying sketch.
Fig, 147

The dung may either be fresh, or
that which has previously undergone
fermentation, and placed all round the
frame eight or ten inches thick, and the
top covered with long litter. The tem-
perature in the interior should have a
range from .55° to 60". If it rises higher,
two or three large holes made through
the top soon corrects it.

A frame renders hand-glasses or any
other coverunnccessary, requires much

ng upon the plants, as represented in bud on the crown of each offset, toge-
ther with a small portion of the root
itself, with, if possible, some fibres at-
tached to it. These offsets may be taken
from roots of three or four years old,
without injury to the plant. They may
be planted where they are intended to
remain, at the same distance and in the
same manner as advised for the seed-
lings."

Taking for Use. — " Scrape away a
little of the earth, then bend down the
stalk you wish to remove, and slip it
off from the crown without breaking it,
and without using a knife. The stalks
are fit to gather when the leaves are
but half expanded, but a larger produce
is obtained by letting them remain till
full grown." — Gard.and Pract. Flor.

RHUS. Seventy-seven species.
Chiefly green-house evergreen shrubs^
some hardy deciduous trees, shrubs,
and climbers, or creepers. The stove

less attention, and produces plants of and green-house kinds increase by ripe

excellent quality. Rhubarb may be cuttings, the hardy species by cuttings

forced without either pots or frame, by and layers. Common soil suits them

merely covering the plants six inches all.

deep with light litter, care being taken

that the plants are not injured.

Mr. Knight's mode of forcing is to Cuttings. Common soil

place " in the winter as many plants as | and Gooseberry

necessary in large deep pots, each pot

receiving as many as it can contain, and i house herbaceous perennial

the interstices entirely filled up by fine t Light rich soil.

eandy loam; washed in. The tops of I

RIBES. Forty-four species and many
varieties. Hardy deciduous shrubs.
See Currant

RICHARDIA {Bthiopica. Green-
Offsets,

RICHJE A fragrans. Stove ever-

RIC

505

green climber. Cuttings. Loam, peat, |
and sand. [

RICINUS. Eight species. Half- i
liardy annuals and green-house ever-
green shrubs. Seeds and cuttings.
Rich soil. R. communis produces ttie
Castor Oil.

RICOTIA lunar ia. Hardy annual.
Seeds. Light sandy soil.

RIDGING is digging the soil into
... parallel ridges in this form — so
AAA „„ ,„ „^„„,„ ;, .1,„,„,,„UI„ ,„ .l.„

deep. In the first place the ground is
measured out in longitudinal beds four
feet wide ; this done, the top spit of the

,^ _- ---0-- - -- bed c, is laid on the bed g, and the

as to expose it thoroughly to the second spit of the bed c, is laid on h.
action either of the atmosphere or of The first or top spit of the bed /, is then

frost.

M. Schluber says, "that freezing re-
duces the consistency of soils most re-
markably, and that in the case of clays
and other adhesive soils, the diminution
of this consistency amounts to at least
fifty per cent."

In hoeing clay he found it reduced
from S'xty-nine to forty-five of the scale
already stated, and in the ordinary
arable soil from thirty-three to twenty.

laid on h, so that the top soil and sub-
i soil are kept on separate and alternate
i beds, and may be mixed, reversed, or
! returned as taken out, at the will of
the operator. By this method the ad-
vantages are — much greater exposure
of surface to the action of the weather;
the opportunity of incorporating with
the soil any desirable or obtainable
manures, and at any desired depth ; a
thorough blending of the soil to the

— .; " ^"-j- •■•■^•^^i^-- ^.^.. — f, -■ — -- —

He satisfactorily explains this phenome- depth of two or three feet ; and it also
non, by observing that the crystals of facilitates the operation of draining,
ice pervading the entire substance of where necessary. It is needless to add,
the frozen sod, necessarily separate the i that when the first thrown-out beds are
particfes of earth, rendering their points sufficiently pulverized, they are levelled
of contact fewer. down, and others thrown out in the

Ridging, however, should not be con- same manner; g, h, i, represent the
fined to the winter, for in summer the ridges thrown out and left as rough as

extra exposure to the air and heat is
highly promotive of vegetation — it im-
pregnates the soil with oxygen, pro-
motes the decay of stubborn vegetable
remains, and disturbs predatory vermin.

possible." — Gard. Chron.

RIGIDELL.\ flammea. Stove tuber-
ous-rooted perennial. Offsets or seeds.
Light rich soil.

RINGING is a practice adopted for

, , J . V, I .»,»,^.».». , ,

Mr. Barnes says, " I keep all ground, ; the purpose of checking the return of
as soon as a crop is done with, well the sap, and thereby confining a larger
trenched, burying all- the refuse I pos- ; supply to the blossom. It is removing
sibly can in a green state, casting the j an entire zone of bark, about an inch
earth into rough ridges, tumbling those I wide, around the branch to be ren-
ridges over with a strong fork on frosty dered more fruitful, and taking care
mornings in winter and spring, and ' that the bark be completely removed
during hot sunny days in summer, con- down to the very wood. This was
tinually changing the crops. Keeping designated the ring of Pomona, but it
the hoe at work at all seasons in suit- certainly was not auspiciously received
able weather, forking up all odd cor- by that deity; for although it renders
ners and spare ground without loss of the part of the branch superior to the
time. By this management, I find the wound more fruitfiil for two or three
ground is always in good condition and j seasons, yet it renders the branch un-
never tired by cropping, some judgment sightly by the swelling which occurs
only being exercised in applying such around the upper lip of the wound, and
properties again to the soil that have | is always followed by disease and un-
been taken from it, or. that are likely to fruitfulness. See Ligature.
be retiuired by the succeeding crop." RIPOGONUM. Two species.

An effectual mode of ridging is thus Green-house evergreen climbers. —

described
" Let a, b, c, d, represent a section

Young cuttings. Loam and peat-
RIVEA liliafolia. Stove evergreen

of the ground to be trenched two feet ! twiner. Cuttings. Rich.oam ana peat.

RI V

506

ROC

RIVINA. Seven species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Seeds or cuttings.
Light soil.

ROBINIA. Seven species and many
varieties. All hardy deciduous trees,
except R. guineensis and 11. purpwea,
which are stove evergreens. Increased
by young cuttings. Loam, sand, and
peat. The hardy kinds are increased
by layers or grafts, and require only
common soil.

ROCAMBOLE. Allium Scorodo-
prasuiii. Sometimes called Spanish
Gallic, has its bulbs or cloves growing
in a cluster. The stem bears many
bulbs at its summit, which as well as
those of the root are often preferred in
cooking to garlic, being of much milder
flavour.

Time of Insertion. — It is best propa-
gated by the root bulbs, those of the
stem being slower in production. The
plantation may be made either in Feb-
ruary, March, or early part of April,
as well as throughout the autumn, in
drills or by the dibble, in rows six
inches apart each way, and usually
two inches within the ground ; though
the plants would thrive better if grown
on the surface as recommended for
the shalot. In other respects they are
cultivated as directed for Garlic. A
very small bed is sufficient for the sup-
ply of the largest family.

ROCHEA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Partly dried
cuttings. Sandy loam, peat, and brick
rubbish.

ROCKET. Hesperis.
ROCK ROSE. Cisttis and Convolvu-
lus Dorycnium.

ROCK-WORK. " Mere rocks, un-
less they are peculiarly adapted to cer-
tain impressions, may surprise, but
can hardly please; they are too far
removed from common life, too barren
and inhospitable, rather desolate than
solitary, and more horrid than terrible.
So austere a character cannot be long
engaging if its rigour be not softened
by circumstances, which may belong
either to these or to more cultivated
spots; and when the dreariness is ex-
treme, little streams and waterfalls are
of themselves insufficient for the pur-
pose : an intermixture of vegetation is
also necessary, and, on some occa-
sions, even marks of inhabitants are

prop

" If such a scene occurs within the

precincts of a park or a garden, no ex-
pense should he spared to meliorate
the soil, wherever any soil can be
found. Without some vegetation
among the rocks, they are only an
object of curiosity or a subject of won-
der ; but verdure alone will give some
relief to the dreariness of the scene,
and shrubs or bushes, without trees,
are a sufficiency of wood. The thickets
may also be extended by the creeping
plants — such as pyracantha, vines, and
ivy — to wind up the sides, or cluster on
the tops of the rocks; and to this vege-
tation may be added some symptoms of
inhabitants, but they must be slight and
few : the use of them is only to cheer,
not to destroy the solitude of the place;
and such therefore should be chosen as
are sometimes found in situations re-
tired from public resort. A cottage
may be lonely, but it must not here
seem ruinous and neglected ; it should
be tight and warm, with every mark of
comfort about it, to which its position
in some sheltered recess may greatly
contribute. A cavity also in the rocks
rendered easy of access, improved to a
degree of convenience, and maintained
in a certain state of preservation, will
suggest similar ideas of protection from
the bitterest inclemencies of the sky,
and even of occasional refreshment and
repose. But vve may venture still fur-
ther. A mill is of necessity often built
at some distance from the town it sup-
plies ; and here it would at the same
time apply the water to a use, and in-
crease its agitation. The dale may,
besides, be made the haunt of those
animals — such as goats — which are
sometimes wild and sometimes domes-
tic, and which, accidentally appearing,
will divert the mind from the sensa-
tions natural to the scene, but not
agreeable if continued longer without
interruption.

" These, and such other expedients,
will approximate the severest retreat
to the habitations of men, and convert
the appearance of a perpetual banish-
ment into that of a temporary retire-
ment from society.

" When rocks retire from the eye
down a gradual declivity, we can,
by raising the upper ground, deepen
the fall, lengthen the perspective, and
give both height and extent to those at
a distance. This effect may be still
increased by covering this upper

ROC

507

ROC

ground with a thicket, which shall idable, which might otherwise have

cease, or be lowered, as it descends, been unnoticed. A steep, in itself not

A thicket, on other occasions, makes very remarkable, becomes alarming

the rocks which rise out of it seem when a path is carried aslant up the

larger than they are. If they stand side. A rail, on the brow of a pcrpen-

upon a bank overspread with shrubs, dicular fall, shows that the lieii'lit is

their beginning is at the least uncer-
tain, and the presumption is that they
start from the bottom.

" Another use of this brushy under-
wood is, to conceal the fragments and

frequented and dangerous; and a cor
mon foot-bridge, thrown over a cleft
between rocks, has a still stronger
effect. In all these instances the im-
agination immediately transports the

rubbish which have fallen from the spectator to the spot, and suggests the

sides and the brow, and which are
often unsightly.

" Rocks are seldom remarkable for
the elegance of their foVms; they are

dea of looking down such a depth ; in
the Inst that depth is a chasm, and the
situation is directly over it.

'If the body of the rock is intended

too vast and too rude to pretend to to be raised much above the ground
delicacy; but their shapes are often | level, a quantity of soil and rulibish
agreeable, and we can affect those should be carried into the centre of the
shapes to a certain degree — at least s[)ace. This soil, besides serving to
we can cover many blemishes in them support the rockwork, will also form a
by conducting the growth of shrubby , border for the plants to grow in. Hav-
and creeping plants about them. For ing at hand plenty of large rough stones,
all these purposes mere underwood broken bricks, or stony rubbish of any
suffices ; but for greater effects larger kind or colour, proceed with these to
trees are requisite. They are worthy imitate the form of natural rock as
of the scene, and not only improve- | nearly as possible. Rough, bold, an-
ments but accessions to its grandeur, gular projections, and deeply-formed
We arc used to rank them among the chasms, are the principal features in
noblest objects of nature ; and when natural scenery which please us most,
we see that they cannot aspire to the , A rock, with a flat unbroken surface,
midway of the heights round them, the [ whether horizontal or perpendicular,
rocks are raised by the comparison. A presents too much sameness to be pleas-
single tree is, therefore, often prefera- ing to the eye: therefore, in imitating
ble to a clump ; the size, though really . nature, the projections should be varied
less, is more remarkable; and clumps , and bold, and unless raggedness and
are, besides, generally exceptionable, intricacy form principal features in its
in a very wild spot, from the suspicion composition, it will lose much of its
of art which attends them. But a wood effect. If the rock-work be on a large
is free from that suspicion ; and its own scale, it should not be one continued
character of greatness recommends it to i line, but broken at intervals, in one part

every scene of magnificence

lost beneath the surface of the earth,

" On the same principle, all the con- ] and again rising in another part and

sideration which can be should be given
to the streams. No number of little
rills are equal to one broad river; and,
in the principal current, some varieties
may be sacrificed to importance. But
a degree of strength should always be
preserved. The water, though it iieeds
not be furious, must not be dull ; for
dignity, when most serene, is not lan-
guid ; and space will hardly atone for
want of animation.

resuming its sinuous lorm.

" So far there is little difference be-
tween this and the common method of
making artificial rock. When, how-
ever, every stone has been arranged to
suit the eye, the interstices between
them are to be filled up with any kind
of rough mortar. Of course fissures,
and similar places intended for the
plants which are to cover the rock,
must be left open, so that the roots may

"Inhabitants furnish frequent oppor- penetrate to the soil beneath the stones
tunities to strengthen the appearances j The next operation is to daub the whole
of force by giving intimations of danger, i mass over with Roman cement. For
A house placed at the edge of a preci- ! this purpose the latter should be mixed
pice — any building on the pinnacle of a | with water until it is of the consistence
crag — makes that situation seem form- \ of thick paint, in which state it may be

ROC

508

ROO

applied to the Btones with a large I nobilis; Phlox ovata; P. subulata ; P.
painter's brush. The spaces between ! nivalis; Vinca minor, florepleno; Cam-
the stones having been filled with rough panula pumila ; Gentiana verna ; Dryas
mortar prevents the cement from being octopetala; Digitalis lutea; Sibthorpia
wasted. The thickness of the latter on europsa ; Arabis alpina; Draba azoides;
the stones need not be more than the Premanthes purpurea; P. Muralis ;
eighth of an inch: it will unite the Antennaria plantaginea ; Gnaphalium
whole into one mass; and rock-work, ! arenanum ; Polypodium vulgare cam-
thus constructed, is beyond all compa- j bricum ; P. dryopteris ; Onoclea sensi-
rison far more natural than that made | bills ; Asplenium adiantum nigrum ;
in the usual way. It has none of that , Pteris caudata ; Adiantum Capillus
disjointed appearance which usually ac- I veneris ; Aspidium rigidum; A. Lon-
companies rock-woA made without ! chitis.

cement. After a few months' exposure ! RODRIGUEZIA, Six species. Stove
to the weather, rock-work thus formed ' orchids. Division. Peat and wood,
(if skillfully made) cannot without care- { ROELLIA. Six species. Chiefly
ful examination be distinguished from a 'green-house evergreen shrubs. R. de-
ratural mass; it will soon cover all hut \currens, a half-hardy annual ; R. mu-
the most prominent parts. If the ce- j cosa, an herbaceous perennial. Seed,
ment be of a colour too light, which, or young cuttings. Sandy loam and
for some situations, may be the case, a i peat.

little lamp-black, or soot, may be mixed R. ciliata is a Cape plant, and re-
with it. Care must, however, be taken I quires a green-house in this country,
that no substance which may make the ! It should be potted in light rich soil,

cement more porous is used, otherwise
it will peel from the stones after a hard
frost. For the benefit of those who
are not accustomed to using cement, I
may mention that no more should be
moistened at once than can be used in
a short time. If the cement be good it
will quickly harden, and will then be in
a manner useless.

" In preserving cavities in the rock
for plants, care should be taken that no
places are left in which the water may
lodge, or, in frosty weather, the ice, by
expansion, would split and peel off the
thin crust of cement, or lowest part of

such as a mixture of peat, leaf-mould,
sand, and loam. Keep it rather dry
when it is not growing, but give it plenty
of water at other times.

RCEPERA.. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings or seeds. Loam, peat, and sand.
R. aurantiaca will flower in an open
border.

ROLANDRA argentea. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

ROLLER. This is best made of cast-
iron, and may be had of four different
sizes, viz. with a diameter of sixteen,

them, communicating with the soil be- , eighteen, twenty-two, or twenty-four

neath the stones, so that the water may
drain off.

" In making artificial rock for water-
falls, or other constructions, where the
cement may be constantly exposed to
the action of water, the best water-ce-
ment should be used. Any preparation
that does not quickly indurate under
water, will, in a short time, be washed
away, and leave nothing but the bare
stones." — Whateley.

Plants suited for Rock-work are : —
Rhododendron ferrugineum; R. hirsu-
tum; Arctostaphylos Uva ursi ; Cha-
moeledron procumbens ; Sedum rupes-
tre ; S. Forsterianum ; S. popullfolium ;

inches. The roller and water-engine,
where either the lawns or roads are
extensive, may be combined advan-
tageously.

RONDELETIA. Eleven species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam, peat, and sand.

ROOTS are either annual, biennial,
or perennial, but in all roots, and under
any mode of management, the fibrous
parts (radiculjB) are strictly annual ; they
decay as winter approaches, and are
produced with the returning vigour of
their parent in the spring. Hence the
reason that plants are transplanted with
most success during the season of their

S. villosum ; S. hexangulare ; Arbutus ] decay : for, as the root almost exclu-
phillyres.folia ; A. pilosa ; Mahonia aqui- I sively imbibes nourishment by the
folium; Ramondia pyrenaica; Soldanella ] mouths of these fibres, in proportion as
alpina; Androsace villosa ; Crydalis i they are injured by the removal, so is

ROO

509

ROO

the plant deprived of the means of sup-
port; that snp which is employed in
the formation of new fibres, would
have served to increase the size of other
parts.

formed, these early varieties blossom
and bear seed as freely as the latter
kinds, a flict suggesting many experi-
ments in the cultivation of shy-blooming
tuberous-rooted flowers. Again, if the

The quantity of root I have always I blossoms of these later varieties are
observed to increase with the poverty i plucked off as they appear, the weight
of the soil in which it is growing. A \ of tubers produced will be very mate-
root always proceeds to that direction . rially increased.

where food is most abundant; and from i According to the nsual acceptation
a knowledge of this fact, we should be I of the term, the roots of plants do not
circumspect in our mode of applying emit excrements, yet it is quite certain
manures, according to the crop and ob- that, in common with all the other parts
ject we have in view. The soil in my of a plant, they perspire matters difter-
own garden being shallow, never pro- ' ing in their amount and composition in

duced a carrot or a parsnip of any size ;
but almost every root consisted of nu-
merous forks thickly coated with fibres ;
digging two spades deep produced no
material advantage, the gardener ap-

every species. The earth in contact
with the tubers of a potato fully ripe
contains mucilage, and has the peculiar
odour of the root; that in contact with
the roots of peas is also mucilaginous,

plying as usual manure to the surface ; i and smells very strongly of that vegeta-
but by trenching as before, and turning 1 ble; and the freshly upturned soil where
in a small quantity of manure at the cabbages have been growing, always
bottom, the roots always spindled well, ; smells offensively.

grew clean, and had few lateral fibres.
For late crops of peas, which mildew,
chiefly from a deficiency of moisture to
the root, it is an object to keep their
radicuhc near the surface, for the sake
of the light depositions of moisture in-
cident to their season of growth ; hence
it will always be found of benefit to
cover the earth over the rows, with a

MM. Sennebier and Caradori found
that if roots of the carrot, scorzonera,
and radish, are placed in water, some
with only their extremities immersed,
and others with their entire surfaces
plunged in except the extremities, the
former imbibe the water rapidly, and
the plants continue vegetating, but the
others imbibe no perceptible quantity,

little well-rotted dung, and to point it 1 and speedily wither. It suggests also

in lightly.

the reason why the gardener in apply-

If it be desirable to prevent the roots I ing water or manure to trees or shrubs,
of any plant travelling in a certain di- , does so at a distance from their stems.

rection, the soil on that side should be [
excavated, and the cavity refilled with
sand, or some other unfertile earth,!
whilst the soil on those sides of the
plant whither the roots are desired to
tend, should be made as fertile as is i
permissible with its habits. '

It may be accepted as a universal
maxim, that whatever causes an exces-

A good rule, for ascertaining the
proper distance for such applications,
seems to be to make tliem beneath the
circumference of the head of the tree ;
tor, as M. De Candolle observed, there
is usually a relation between that and
the length of the roots, so that the rain
falling upon the foliage is poured off
most abundantly at the distance most

sive development of root, prevents the j desirable for reaching the extremities
production of seed ; and vice versA, the , of the roots.

productiod of seed, especially in tuber- This explains why the fibrous points
ous-rooted plants, reduces the amount of roots are usually annually renewed,
of root developed. Thus, frequent and the caudex (or main limb of the
transplanting the young plants of the root) extended in length ; by these
lettuce, brocoli, and cauliflower, causes means they each year shoot forth into
the production of numerous fibrous i a fresh soil, always changing their di-
roots,and is found effective in prevent- | rection to where most food is to be ob-
the mature plants advancing early I tained. If the extremity of a root is cut

to seed.

off, it ceases to increase in length, but

The early varieties of the potato do j enlarges its circle of extension by late-
not naturally produce seed ; but if their i ral shoots,
tubers are removed as soon as they are I The roots of plants, unless frozeB,

ROO

510

ROO

are constantly imbibing nourishment, with a superabundance of roots, the
and even developing parts; for if the loss, in their case, is not so much felt,
roots of trees planted during the winter If performed at all, it should take place
be examined after an interval of a few
weeks, they will be found to have emit-
ted fresh radicles.

The food they imbibe is slowly ela-
borated in the vessels of the stem and
branches, and there deposited. In ge-
neral, roots have no buds, and are,
therefore, incapable of multiplying the
plant to which they belong. But it

in the autumn ; for, at that time, the
root, like the other parts of a plant,
are comparatively empty of fluid ; but
if deferred till the spring, then the roots
are all distended with fluid, which has
been collecting in them during winter;
and every part taken away carries with
it a portion of that nurture which the
plant had been laying up as the store

constantly happens in some species, upon which to commence its renewed

that they have the power of forming
what are called adventitious buds ; and
in such cases, they may be employed
for purposes of propagation.

There is no rule by which the power
of a plant to generate such buds by its
roots can be judged of: experiment is
therefore necessary, in all cases, to
determine the point. When there is a

growth.

"It must now be obvious that, al-
though root-pruning may be prejudicial
in transplanting trees, it may be of the
greatest service to such established
trees as are too prone to produce
branches and leaves, instead of flowers
and fruit. In these cases, the excessive
vigour is at once stopped, by removal

difficulty in procuring a suitable stock, ' of some of the stronger roots, and con-
pieces of the roots of the plant to be ' sequently, of a part of the superfluous
multiplied are often taken as a substi- < food to which their 'rankness' is owing.
tute, and they answer the purpose per- \ " The operation has been success-
fectly well ; for the circumstance which fully performed on the wall trees at
hinders the growth of pieces of a root Oulton, by Mr. Errington, one of our
into young branches, is merely their | best English gardeners, and by many
want of buds. If a scion is grafted - others, and, I believe, has never proved
upon a root, that deficiency is supplied, I an objectionable practice under judi-
and the difference between the internal 1 cious management. Its effect is, pro
organization of a root and a branch is ; tanto, to cut off the supply of food,
80 trifling as to oppose no obstacle to 1 and thus to arrest the rapid growth of

the solid union of the two

ROOT-PRUNING has been thus con-
sidered by Dr. Lindley, in his excellent
Theory of Horticulture : —

" In the nurseries, it is a universal
practice to prune the roots of trans-
planted trees: in gardens, this is as

the branches.

" Under all ordinary circumstances,
the roots must necessarily be injured
more or less by removal : in that case,
all the larger wounds should be cut to
a clean smooth face, and not in long
ragged slivers, as is often the case, and

seldom performed—which is right. If I which is only substituting one kind of
a wounded or bruised root is allowed ; mutilation for another; but at an angle
to remain upon a transplanted tree, it of about 4.5'^, or less,
is apt to decay, and this disease may " If the ends of small roots are
spread to neighbouring parts, which bruised, they generally die back a little
would otherwise be healthy: to remove | way, and then emit fresh spongioles;
the wounded parts of roots is, therefore, : but the larger roots, when bruised, lose
desirable. But the case is different with the vitality of their broken extremity;
healthy roots. We must remember that their ragged tissue remains open to the
every healthy and unrautilated root uncontrolled introduction of water ; de-
which is removed, is a loss of nutriment cays in consequence of being in con-
to the plant, and that, too, at a time tact with an excess of this fluid; and
when it is least able to spare it; and often becomes the seat of disease which
there cannot be any advantage in the spreads to parts that would be healthy.
removal. The nursery practice is pro- i " When, however, the wound is
bably intended to render the operation '■ made clean by a skilful pruner, the
of transplanting large numbers of plants vessels all contract, and prevent the
less troublesome: and, as it is chiefly introduction of an excess of water into
applied to seedlings and young plants the interior; the wound heals by granu-

ROP

511

ROS

lations formed by the living tissue ;] and others vary so sliglitly that a prac-
and the readiness with which this takes ticed eye is scarcely able to detect the
place is in proportion to the sniallness ditTerence. The Queen of Flowers had
of the wound. It may be sometimes at no previous day attained the cele-
advantagcous to remove large parts of brity and popular favour it now enjoys,
the coarser roots of a tree, even if and never was it so well worthy that
they are not accidentally wounded po[)ularity. Ever cliarining, it is now
when taken up, the object being to doubly so from exhibiting its beauty
compel tlie plant to throw out, in room almost without intermission, whilst very
of those comparatively inactive subter- i many of them yield powerful and de-

ranean limbs, a supply of young active
fibres.

"This is a common practice in the
nurseries in transplanting young oaks

licious perfume. Those who may be
resident in remote positions, and whose
idea of the rose, pleasing as it may be,
is the recollection of it, as it was in by-

and other tap-rooted trees, and is one , gone years, are far behind the age —

of the means employed by the Lan-
cashire growers of gooseberries, in or-

notliing, whether it be artificial, or the
product of nature assisted by art, has

der to increase the vigour of their kept more steady pace with the im-
branches ; in the last case, however, 1 provements of our day.
the operation is not confined to the The following select varieties in each
time when transplantation takes place, of the divisions into wliich by common
but is practised annually upon digging consent this flower has been divided,
the gooseberry borders. The reason : are abstracted from the catalogue of
■why cutting off portions of the princi- I the old Landreth nursery, and though
pal roots causes a production of fibres ' they are now certainly among those
appears to be this; the roots are pro- i most to be desired, who can tell how
duced by organizable matter sent down- : soon many of them may be superseded
wards from the stem; that matter, if by more attractive varieties? Whilst
uninterrupted, will flow along the main speaking of varieties it may not be out
branches of the roots, until it reaches ^ of place to remark that great disap-
thc extremities, adding largely to the , pointment has been endured by im-
wood and horizontal growth of the porters of roses from Europe, induced
root, but increasing in a very slight de- j to order by the enticing descriptions in
gree the absorbent powers: but if a English and continental works : a large
large limb of the roots is amputated, niajority, it is believed, have fallen short
the powers of the stem remaining the , of their transatlantic character, and
same, all that descending organizable American florists have not a! ways escap-
matter which would have been ex- ' ed censure for distributing varieties of
pended in adding to the thickness of little worth, when their only fault was
the amputated part, is arrested at the reliance on the fidelity of European
lime of amputation ; and, unable to descriptions,
pass further on, rapidly produces granu-
lations to heal the wound, and imme-
diately afterward young spongioles,
which soon establish themselves in the
surrounding soil, and become the points
of new active fibres.'- — Theory of liort.

ROPALA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

ROSE. Roaa. Seventy-eight spe-
cies, and an almost innumerable num- '
ber of varieties, principally hardy de-
ciduous or evergreen shrubs. To
attempt an enumeration, much less a
description of all the varieties which
they profess to cultivate in Europe,
would be an unnecessary waste of
space, for the simple reason that many
of them are unworthy of preservation.

ROSA INDICA.

Bengal, or Daily Rose.

Animated, rosy blush.
Arsenie, light rose.
Augustine Hersent, superb rose.
Assuerus, crimson.
Admiral Duperre, dark rose.
Belle Isidore, crimson.

" de Monza, dark rose.

" Violet, violet purple.
Bisson, rosy blush.
Burette, dark red.
Camelcon, rose.
Cramoisi superieur, crimson.
Cels, blush.

Comble de Gloirc, crimson.
Don Carlos, dark rose.

ROS 512

Duchess of Kent, pink.

Eugene Beauharnais, crimson.

Fabvier, scarlet.

Grandral, crimson.

Grandida, rose.

Hortensia, light rose.

Indica Alba, pure white.

Jacksonia, bright red.

Louis Philippe, crimson.

Lady Warrender, while.

Lawrencia, pink.

Marjolin, crimson.

Mrs. Bosanquet, large blush.

Napoleon, rose fine.

Reine de Lombardie, cherry red.

Samson, light rose.

Triomphant, crimson.

Vanilla, dark rose.

ROSA INDICA ODORATA.

Tea scented Roses.
Archduchess Theresa, white.
Aurora, blush.
Alba, pure white.
Arkinto, flush colour.
Adelaide, blush.
Antherose, blush white.
Adam, rosy blush.
Belle Marguerite, rosy purple.
Bougfere, light rose.
Boutrand, rosy blush.
Bon Silene, superb red.
Bourbon, white.
Barbot, blush.
Camellia, white.
Caroline, bright rose.
Countess Albemarle, straw colour.
Due d'Orleans, bright rose.
Devoniensis, creamy yellow.
Devaux, blush.
Delphine Gaudot, white.
D'Arrance de Navarre, light pink.
Eliza Sauvage,pale sulphur.

Flon, buff.

Flavescens, yellow.

Golcondi, blush white.

Goubault, rosy blush.

Gigantesque de Lima, light yellow.

Gloria de Hardi, light rose.

Hymenee, white.

Jaune Panache, straw colour.

La Sylphide, rosy buff.

Lilicina, lilac.

Lyonnais, rose.

La Pactole, yellow.

La Renomme, white.

Madam Desprez, white.

Mansais, rosy buff.

Niphetos, white.

Odoratissima, rich blush.

ROS

Princesse Maria, blush.

«« d'Esterhazy, light rose.
Strombio, white.
Triomphe de Luxembourg, rosy

blush.
Victoria Modeste, blush.
William Wallace, pale blush.

KOSA BOURBONIANA*

Bourbon Roses.
Augustine Lelieur, bright rose.
Acidalie, white, large and fine.
Comte de Rambuteau, violet purple.
Ceres, dark rose.
Cytherea , rosy pink, very fragrant.
Comte d'Eu, bright carmine.
Doctor Rocques, purple crimson.
Dumont de Courset, deep purple.
Du Petit Thouars.
Emilie Courtier, rosy red.
GloiredeRosamene, brilliant crimson.

" de Paris, bright red.
Grand Capitaine, brilliant scarlet.
Gloire de France, rose, very fragrant.
Hermosa, light pink.
Henri Plantier, pale rose.
Imperatrice Josephine, creamy white.
Lady Canning, deep rose.
Madam Desprez, rosy lilac.
" Souchet, blush, fine.
" Lacharme, blush white.
" Nerard, light rose.
Marechal de Villars, rosy purple, fine.
Ninon de I'Enclos, dark rose.
Paul Joseph, velvet crimson.
Princesse Clementine, deep rosy pur-
ple.
Phoenix, rose red.
Pierre de St. Cyr, light rose.
Queen, delicate blush.
Reine de Fontenay, brilliant rose.
Souchet, deep crimson.
Souvenir de la Malmaison, creamy

white, fine.
Theresita, bright carmine.

REMONTANT, OR HYBRID PERPETUAL
ROSES.

Note— In Europe these roses are highly
esteemed; fiere their reputation as "per-
petuals" has been seriously injured, in
consequence of their having been n\
many instances, worked on stocks uii-
suited either to this rose, or to our cU-
mate.

Antinous, dark crimson.

Aubernon, clear red, very fine.

Augustine Mouchelet, clear bright
rose.

Baronne Provost, fine rose colour.

ROS

513

ROS

Comte de Paris, dark crimson.
Claire du Chatelet, purple red.
Clementine Syringe, pale rose.
Comtesse Duchatel.
Crimson orRosedu Roi,lightcrimson.
D'Angers, delicate rose.
Doctor M.irjolin.
' Due de Aumale.
Duchesse de Nemours, pale rose.

" de Sutherland, bright rose.
Edouard Jesse, dark purple crimson.
Isaure, bright pink.
Israel, salile.
Insigne D'Estotells.
Josephine Antoinette, rosy blush.
Louis Bonaparte.
Lady Fordwich, deep rose.

" Alice Peel, rosy carmine.
La Reine, or Queen, rose colour,

superb.
Madame Laffay, brilliant rose,
^larcjuise Bocella.
Mrs. Elliott, rosy red.
Melanie Cornu, deep crimson.
Newton.
Palmyre, blush.

Princesse Helene, large deep rose.
Prince Albert, very dark crimson,

fine.
Prudence Rocser, rosy pink.
Prince de Salm, dark crimson.

" of Wales, rose carmine.
Reine de la Guilloti&re, brilliant

crimson.
Desquermus or Royal, large rose.
Stanwell, blush very fine.
Sisley, large bright red.

NOISETTE OR CLUSTER FLOVTERING ROSES.

Those marked * are dwarfs.

*Alba, crea.my white.
*Ainiee Vibert, pure white.
Bengal Lee, blush, fragrant.
Cadot, blush lilac.
Charles Tenth, purple.
Conque de Venus, white rose centre.
Ccpur Jaune, white yellow centre.
Champneyana, rosy white.
♦Couiitesse de Grillion, blush.
Chromotelle, large yellow fine.
*Euphrosine, pale yellow.
Fcllenberg, crimson, superb.
♦Gabriel, blush, fine.
Jaune Desprez, rosy yellow,
♦Julienne le Sourd, rose.
Julie dc Loynes, white.
Lamarque, creamy white, ^ne.
La Biche, flesh colour.
Lady Byron, pink, /inf.
33

Lutea or Smithii, fine yellow.
Landreth's Carmine, carmine.
*La Nymphe,pale rose.
Miss Simpson, blush.
Orloff, pink,^ne.
*Ophire, ycWow , fragrant.
Sir Walter Scott, deep rose.
Solfatare, superb dark yellow.
Vitellina, white.

CLIJIBIXG ROSES.

These flower annually in immense
clusters, grow rapidly, and are quite
hardy.

fianksia lutea, double yellow.

" alba, white.
Boursault, rose colour.

" purpurea, purple.

" blush, large blush.

" gracilis, bright rose.

Bengalensis scandens, large rosy

white.
Felicite perpetuelle, blush white.
Grevillia. Greville produces immense
clusters, of various colours and
shades, from white to crimson.
Multiflora, pink.

" alba, blush white.

Rubifolia, single Michigan or prairie.
" elegans, double pink.
" purpurea, double purple.
" Queen, double pink.
" alba, double blush white.
Russelliana, crimson cottage rose.
Sempervirens plena, superb white.
Triomphe de Bolhvyler, blush white.
Laura Davoust, white.

MICROPHYLLA ROSES.

Maria Leonida, white, extra fine.
Microphylla rosea, rose colour.

•' odorata alba, creamy

white.

MUSK-SCENTED ROSES.

Moschata, white semi-double.

" superba, pure white, very

double.
Princesse de Nassau, white double.

HARDY GARDEN ROSES.

Miaulis, rosy purple.
Coronation, purple crimson.
Reine dcs Roses, bright crimson.
Due d'Orleans, dark rose.
Painted damask, white.
Brennes, dark pink.
Rivers' Geo. IV., superb crimson.
Hybride blanche, white.

ROS

514

ROS

Heureuse surprise, carmine.
Ranunculus, purple, compact.
La capricieuse, purple crimson.
Royal Provins, superb pink.
Uu Roi, perpetual, bright red.
Harrisonii, yellow Austrian briar.
Moss single, crimson, veiy mossy.

" common, rose.

" Luxembourg, crimson.

" white, perpetual.

" crested.

" Adelaide.
York and Lancaster, red and white.
Provins Belgic, large pink.
Four Seasons, pink.
Moretti, light rose.
Burgundy, rose, compact.
Persian, this is the finest yellow rose

now in cultivation.
Characteristics of Excellence. — Petal s

form the female parents. Among tlie
moss, the Single Crimson, Du Luxem-
bourg, and Eclatante, occasionally seed.
Among the briers, the Double Yellow,
and Harrisonii. Among the Bourbons,
the old or de Lisle, Augustine Lelieur,
Dubourg, Gloire de Rosamfene, Emile
Courtier, and Bouquet de Flore. Among
the Chinese, Camellia Blanc, Fabvicr,
Therese Stravins, Alba, Belle Elvire,
Henri Cinque, and Madame Bureau.
Among the tea-scented, Odbrate, Jaune
Hamon, Lyonnais, Hardy, Lady Gran-
ville, Caroline Gonbault, Belle AUe-
mande,and Bardon. Many of the least
double Gallica roses also seed freely.
As the female parent will, in many
cases, be but semi-double, we should
endeavour to counteract the probable
results of this by crossing with farina

thick, broad, and smooth edged; highly gathered from the most double varieties

perfumed; outline of flower, circular ;
outer petals, curving slightly inwards,
and imbricated in distinct rows ; colour,
distinct and permanent ; flowers, uni-
form in size, well above the foliage,
and on foot-stalks stiff but elastic;
foliage, bright green; habit of the
plant, shrubby.

Propagation. — We give the direc-
tions lor propagation by budding, graft-

that we can collect it from. The plants
intended to seed should be selected in
a good state of growth, and never al-
lowed to suffer from drought. When
the bloom is in trusses, the backward
flower buds should be cut out, leaving
not more than six of the plumpest and
most perfect buds on one flower-stalk."
— Card. Chron.

Those who wish to raise seedling

ing, cuttings, &c., and the general j roses should not gather the hips until
management of this plant, just as it they have been exposed to frost, for it
appears in the English edition of this j is a curious fact that the seeds of those

work. The American florist has greatly
simplified much therein described —
still it is well to exhibit what is done
by others.

By Seed. — Mr. Paul, the eminent
florist, recommends the following, —

which," he says, " seed freely, and

thus subjected to a low temperature
germinate with less failures. This is a
lesson probably from nature, for it is
certain that the hips of the rose never
fall or shed their seed to the ground
until they have been frosted.

Budding. — Preparing Stocks. — The

appear well suited for female parents. Boursault and De Lisle roses have been

First among the hybrid Chinese are,
Athelin and Celine; Ne plus Ultra;
Duke of Devonshire ; Chatelain ; Prin-
cess Augusta; Henri Barbet; Globe,
White Hip ; General AUard, Aurora,
and others. These might be crossed
with some of the freest blooming da- ' a stick, it will allow a bud to be in-

ested as the best stocks for pot-
culture, and if grown in a rich shel-
tered soil, and cut down for stooling,
some of the shoots of the second year
may be layered the same season. If
the end of the layer is tied carefully to

mask, perpetual, or Bourbon roses, to
endeavour to obtain an increase of, and
an improvement among, the hardy au
tumnal roses. The Ayrshire and Sem
pervirens, among which there

serted in a few weeks. The tongue
being cut on the layer's upper side will
save the shoot from breaking. Mr.
Reid, of Noble Thorpe, near Barnsley,
from whom these directions come, re-

paucity of high-coloured flowers, might commends a piece of clay or a small
be fertilized with the farina of some stone to be inserted in the opening, to
dark varieties selected from those sec- ', prevent its adhering before roots are
tions which approach nearest to them formed. About the end of October
in natural character. Here Ruga Splen- these early layers will be rooted, and
dens, and Leopoldine d'Orleans, might , may be potted. Only one bud to be

ROS

515

ROS

inserted on a stock. Many varieties, as tion to tliese circumstances insures that
IJourbon, Noisette, China, Tea-scented, ' the sap is flowing freely, and avoids a
&c., if well managed, will bloom beau- rapid evaporation, so often preventing
tifully in the spring and summer fol- i success. But budding may be in spring,
lowing. I if the buds are extracted with a small

Mr. Jos. Baumann recommends the | portion of wood adhering to them. For
seeds of the dog rose to be sown in this purpose, scions are cut before win-
February, the seedlings, cut back to ' ter, and stuck into the ground till the
two eyes, potted in forty-eights next moment when in spring the bark of the
autumn ; plunged in a border until early ' stock will run. To prepare the bud,
in July ; to be budded at the end of we make firstly, a transverse cut into
August; headed down in November; the wood a little below an eye, which
potted in thirty-twos; protected in a incision is met by a longer cut down-
frame during winter ; started by dung wards, commencing at a short distance
heat in January, and the shoots when above the eye, care being taken that a
three inches long pinched back to one portion of wood is removed with the

inch, this being repeated two or three
times to form a good head. In autumn,
prune and shift to larger pots, to re-
main for some years. These stocks
produce very enduring and bright flow-
ers. Rosa Banksia, herberifolia, brac-
teata, and multiflora, do boston Quatre
Saisons stocks.

bark. This bud is inserted into the
bark of the stock, which is cut like
an inverted y, the horizontal edges of
this cut in the stock, and of the bud,
must be brought into the most perfect
contact with each other, and then bound
with waterproof bast, without, however,
applying grafting clay. Eight days after

In budding on the Boursault, and in- the insertion of the bud, the stock is
deed on any other rose, an excellent pruned down to the branch, which is
mode is, in April, to tongue a strong immediately above the opposite side,
shoot, pass it through a forty-eight pot, and this branch is stopped by being cut
until the tongue is in the centre, and down to two or three eyes; all the side
then press the pot full of a mixture of wood is destroyed, and when the bud
rotten dung and sand. It may be bud- I has pushed its fifth leaf, compel it to
ded at the time, but whenever done, branch by pinching its extremity ; it will
the shoot should be headed down at the ! then flower in September of the same
time of budding to within two eyes of year. You may also bud the rose in

the bud. — Gard. Chron.

the spring without waiting till tlie bark

Mr. Glenny recommends the stocks ! separates, by placing the bud with some
to be planted in a rich stiflish ground, wood on it, in a niche made in the
two feet apart in the row, and three stock, similar to what would be formed
feet between the rows, with a stake ' by taking an eye for budding from it in
every ten feet, and rods of sufficient the manner above described, and into
strength, reaching from one to another, [ which it is fitted exactly with a slight
to secure them against the effects of the pressure. It is recommended to make
wind. Plant no deeper than just to the cut for the niche where there is al-
cover the crown of the roots. When [ ready a bud on the stock ; when placed,
growing commences rub off, twice a the bud is then bound with bast and
week, all the buds that are not wanted, \ covered with mastic. — Gard, Mag.
but let the highest remain, for a stock Grafting. — " The exact time," says
six feet high often produces no shoots the best treatise on the 'Tree Rose,'
higher than half its height. In the first " for removing the scions from the pa-
week of July, the thorns should be re- rent tree, must depend upon the season ;
moved from those places on the stocks some time during the first three weeks
intended for budding roses. If they be J in February is the usual period. There
not taken away, the operation is ren- does not exist an actual necessity for
dered needlessly troublesome; and it | cutting the scions until they arc required
is best done now as time is thus allowed for use ; but then it will be more diffi-
for the bark's healing. The best time j cult to select the numbers recjuired in
for budding the rose is towards the end a state fit for use, and there is a greater
of July, a dormant eye being employed, ' chance of their going off, if the weather
just after a fall of rain, and when no remain cold, or the sap be not imme-
strong dry wind is moving. An atten- ] diately supplied. Scions cut when the

ROS

516

ROS

sap is quite down, carry better and are will have a tendency to do, when the
in every way more hardy. Let the rise of the sap swells the stock, thereby
shoot remain for three weeks in an out- diminishing the juxtaposition of their
liouse, or any other place, neither very , respective libers, and the whole be-
dry nor very damp, where neither wind I neath the lowest bud covered with
nor sun can come in contact with them; ' grafting clay, totally excluding air, sun,
the clay being damped with a sparing and rain. If the clay crack, it must be
hand, if the generality of the scions j renewed, not by shifting, but by filling
appear to shrink. During the first week up the crack. In about six months the
in March the head of the stock (in which clay may be removed, and the wound

covered with grafting wax; this latter
ust be omitted." —

the sap should be beginning to rise)
to be cut off horizontally, a slit made | on no account
in it straight downwards of a couple of Gard. Chron.
inches, or an inch and a half long, with- ! te j^ Flanders, cleft-grafting is adopt-
out injuring the sides of the bark. The gj^ ^nd care taken that the scion is of
scion is to be taken in the left hand, jj^g game diameter as the stock, or the
three buds, or two if the stock be not ^igf^ ;„ the stock made sufficiently near
large, being left upon it; the lower ex- \ o„g gjjg of t^g cross section, that tiie
tremity must then be cut in the shape jj^rk of the scion may fit the stock on
of a wedge, the back being rather the j^otj, sides. This mode is adopted in
thinnest, and the lowest bud about half grafting one sort of garden-rose upon
an inch above the thick end of the another. In grafting upon tiie dog-
wedge. In doing which, care must be ^ose the same practice is followed, with
taken that the bark be undisturbed, and jj^jg addition, that a shoulder is very
each scion so placed that when entered of^gn made to the scion, so as that it
in the stock, all the buds may poirit jj^^y rest with greater firmness upon
outward, or at any rate be in such posi- jj^g stock ; such stocks being often em-
tion, that the shoots from them may not ployed as standards, and therefore more
interfere with each other. The end of gxposed to wind.

a budding knife or a little wooden or
ivory wedge may be used to open the
slit in the stock on one side, and the
scion, with the thickest part or front
outwards, must be placed in the other,
care being taken that the edge of the
inner bark or liber of the scion touches
the edges of the inner bark of the stock
all the way down ; the wedge may then
be removed and another scion entered
in its place, the si
the first : if the siz

half the size of the stock, a shoulder
may be left to the former, and the
chances of success thereby increased.
Any number of scions may be inserted
in the same stock, but from one to four
at most are all that are desirable in the

" Mr. Calvert, of Rouen, observes

that it is the general practice to form

the wedge in a part of the scion where

there are no buds, but that he adopts a

contrary practice, and finds that a bud,

on the wedge part of the scion, greatly

contributes to the success of the graft.

By taking care to have a bud on the

lower part of the scion, Mr. Calvert has

, even been successful in grafting roses

It being kept open by , ^j^^ ^j^- or splice method, which,

•e of the scion be only ,^<thout a bud on the lower part of the

scion, very often fails; but, with a bud,

fails very seldom." — Gard. Mag.

Cuttings are made to succeed by the
following treatment : —

" Take a cutting of a this-year's

present case to cover completely the [ shoot, removing all but one leaf, and
head of the stock, which is apt to re- j cutting off the upper part of the shoot
ceive much injury from the weather, if above the leaf, and reducing its entire
not carefully attended to. The object length to six inches. The cutting
of laying by the scions, is that the stock ' should be planted on the north side of
may be forwardest, and be enabled to a wall, under glass in a small frame, on
supply the sap and force them forward a newly prepared hot-bed, and in a soil
at once, instead of lingering while they of leaf'-mould, eight inches deep, well
perish from exposure and w ant of nou- soaked with water, and covered over
rishment. When the shoots are on, the with sand. Water is to be given, and
whole must be tied up with a bast liga- air abundantly, for the first four days,
ture to prevent the scions from shifting, ; lessening its admission daily, until root-
which from their wedge-like shape they ing is completed, which will be in about

ROS

517

ROS

three weeks. In the fourth week the should cut both of these into within two
cutting m;iy be potted." — Gnrd. Chron. : eyes of the short branch they started

By Suckers. — Roses send up many j from ; and this would make each of
suckers annually, which may be taken [those branches start out two more ; and
up in autumn, winter, or early spring, ! unless to get the tree, or the dwarf
With some rootlets attached; and the ' bush, into any particular t'orni, we
strongest mav be planted out finally, ' should never omit cutting down shoots,
and the weakest in the nursery for a | and often cut out old lumps of wood
year or two or longer. They will ! and branches to thin the tree, which
readily grow, and will, most of them, I must never get crowded. By the same
produce liowers the following summer, rule we should always cut away all the

When rose-trees have grown into j spindly shoots. China roses, and all
large bunches, with many suckers, the i constant bloomers, which require con-
whole may be taken up and slipped, or ' tinued attention, should have only the
divided into separate plants. The moss, 1 old wood and the weak shoots cut away,
and some others, furnish suckers but ! because any violent prunin;: would

sparingly.
By Layers.-

throw the plant out of flower for a con-
-To obtain shoots for ' siderable time ; while carefully remov-

layering, a quantity of rose-trees should ' ing the seed-vessels, and taking away
be planted for stools, which, being ! weak wood to make room for the
headed down low, will throw out shoots ' stronger, will keep them constantly
abundantly near the ground, in summer, I flowering. This is especially requisite
for layering in autumn or winter follow- j with climbing roses, where the favour-
ing. They will be rooted by next able aspect, and other circumstances,
autumn, and fit for transplantation in may set the seed of almost every bloom.
nursery rows ; though sometimes the The swelling of their seed-vessels will
moss-rose and some others require two [ take all the nourishment from the shoots
years before they are tolerably well that would otherwise continue to grow
rooted. But of these sorts you may ' and bear flowers ; and the seed will
also try layers of the shoots of the year, [ often complete its growth and ripen
layered in summer, any time in June. } before there is anything like a general
They will probably root a little the bloom again." — Gard. and Prnr. Flor.
same season. The layers of all the I " A very good time for performing
sorts, after being properly rooted, j the operation is imjnediately after the
should be taken up in autumn and ] bloom is over ; cuttingout old exhausted
planted in the nursery, to have one or wood, shortening shoots which have

two years' growth. — Abercromhie.

flowered to a good bud accompanied

Soil. — All the cultivated roses, and ; with a healthy leaf, but leaving such
especially the double-flowering kinds, j shoots as are still in a growing state
require a rich loamy soil inclining to untouched till October,
clay rather than sand ; and they require j " Where very large roses are wanted,
also, like most double flowers, plenty all the buds but that on the extreme
of moisture when in a growing stite. \ point of each shoot should be pinched

Manures. — The best is a mixture of i off" as soon as they make their appear-
one part guano, three parts charred i ance, and the plant liberally supplied
turf and earth, and six parts cow-dung, with water.
A thin dressing pointed in every spring. ] "To lessen evaporation, and keep

Pruning. — Mr. Glenny gives these up a constant moisture at the root of
very good and full directions: — 'their roses, the Paris gardeners gene-

" Suppose we have a standard, with rally mulch them with half-rotten stnl)!e
only one branch from the bud, which is ' dung or partially rotten leaves." — Enc.
always stronger and better than if there Gard.

are two or three — the first season we ; The Banksian Rose must be pruned
should cut that to within two eyes of at no other time, but immediately after
the ground, if a rose on its own root, or ' it has done blooming in June, or early
within two eyes of the stock, if it be a in July.

budded one. These two eyes would, Planting. — "On removing trees,"'
the very first year, send out two bloom- ! says the author of the Tree Rose, " the
ing branches, which would grow a con- j fresh shoots they have made, and the
siderable length. The next season we | appearance of those which were left,

ROS

518

ROS

will require attention in the applica-
tion of the knife. In pruning a large
root it should be cut to a lateral; in
shortening a small one, to a fibre.
Where a plant has been examined and
trimmed recently, however, the knife
should be sparingly used.

" And it may here be well to observe,
that all cuts to remove branches, knots,
or roots, should be quite clean, slant-
ing (and deep enough to the stem, viz.
even with it), and nothing left projecting
Jest dead wood he the consequence,
and the plant be eventually injured.
All wounds should be carefully healed ,
and dead wood should, in all cases, be
removed, and living bark encircle that
which remains."

The best time for planting is No-
vember.

Forcing. — For the following very
successful mode of forcing roses, we
are indebted to R. A. Salisbury, Esq : —

" Take off strong suckers about the
end of October or beginning of No-
vember, with all the fibres they may
have formed, which can only be well
done by digging up the parent stock.
Plant these suckers in pots only about
four inches diameter at the top, wind-
ing the sucker three, four, or five times
round the inside of the pot ; and prune
it, so as to leave no more than two
buds, or three at most, above ground.
Fill the pots with hazel loam, mixed
with one-third equal parts charred turf
and vegetable mould, pressing it firmly
down to keep the sucker from starting,
and plunge them to the brim close to
one another quincunx fashion, in an
open bed fully exposed to the sun and
air.

" The small size of these pots makes
stronger blossoms, even the first if the
suckers are large ; and as they are to
be shifted annually, it is absolutely
necessary to begin with small pots.
To have a plentiful supply of blos-
soms during tlie months of December,
January, February, March, April and
May, from one hundred to three hun-
dred suckers must be thus prepared.

" For the plants to be forced, from
December to INIarch, a small frame
should be devoted, about twelve feet
long, five feet wide, seven feet wide
behind, and only six or eight inches in
front. This pitch admits the rays of
light, at that period, to strike upon the
plants to the greatest advantage, a flue.

or tank, or pipes, if hot water be used,
running from one end to the other. If
the floor be built thick, and the fire-
Fig. 149.

place, as well as the chimney-top, be
well closed up after the heat has pene-
trated the flue, the air within will be
sufficiently heated with very little fuel,
and require no attendance at night, ex-
cept in very severe frost. The back of
this frame may consist of wood, or a
narrow brick, at pleasure, and should
have a door in the middle, just sutfi-
cieiitly large to admit the gardener to
creep in and water the plants, by
reaching over them from one side to
the other without any walk inside.

" A strong latticed floor must be fixed
six inches above the flue, on which the
pots must be placed when introduced ;
and these must have a pan or receiver
under each, to prevent the heat of the
flue, which will now and then be smart
notwithstanding every precaution, from
striking directly on the pots them-
selves. After the month of March,
roses may be advantageously forced in
other houses and situations, but hardly
sooner, except on the front flue of a
pine-stove : and a small frame like this
is not only built and maintained at a
small cost ; but the lights may be used
for other crops, especially melons, after
June.

" The plants to be forced into blos-
som by Christmai-day should be placed
in this frame on the first day of October,
lighting fires gradually, so as to keep
the temperature, in the daytime, rather
increasing than decreasing — from 60*'^
of Fahrenheit to SO'-' j but at night 30^

RO S

519

RO S

is not too low. If the plants meet with
one frosty night or two in the beginning
of October, so much the better ; for
they will push more vigorously after
the heat is applied. The first year
none of the crops will come in so early
as afterwards; and I advise all the
young suckers to be forced in succes-
sion the first year, not waiting till ihey
have had one year's growth in the open
air. Moreover, if the suckers are
strong, they will produce more blos-
soms than might be expected. The
second crop of plants introduced on the
first of November will blossom from the
middle of January to mid-February ; the
third crop, introduced December 1st,
from mid-February to the middle of
March ; those of the fourth crop, intro-
duced on the first of January, from the
middle of March to the middle of April ;
those of the fifth crop, introduced on
the first of February, from the middle
of April to the middle of May ; those of
the sixth and last crop, introduced on
the first of March, from the middle of
May till the middle of June, when
several varieties in the open ground be-
gin to blossom.

'•' As soon as the plants begin to push
their buds, whether any apliides ap-
pear upon the young shoots or not, fill
the frame with tobacco-smoke ; and do
not fail to repeat this every third week
till the flowers appear; smoking, for
the last time, just before any red tints
appear on the earliest buds. No un-
pleasant smell of the tobacco will re-
main upon the plants after a day or
two. The young shoots must also be
carefully examined when half an inch
long, and any grubs feeding upon them
destroyed.

" After the blossoms are gathered
the plants must not be removed to a
back shed, but kept in the frame, or
brought back into it, if they have been
taken into the apartments of the owner,
permitting them to grow as they do in
summer, in the open air, for at least
two or three months. They must then
be placed in a shady situation, and kept
rather dry than moist, to throw them
into a state of rest.

" After the mouth of May, Mr. Salis-
bury prefers inverting them, especially
the earlier crops, between two planks
raised upon tressels, high enough to
prevent tiie branches from touching the
earth, as in the amiexed sketch, having

for twenty-five years experienced the
utility of this treatment, and suspecting
that it strengthens the future blossoms
by retaining sap in the branches, which
would otherwise descend to the root or
form suckers.

Fig. 150.

" While the plants are growing they
must be constantly supplied with moist-
ure — water and guano, or pigeons'
dung infused in it a few days before, in
the proportion of one ounce of the
former, and of the latter one ounce to
a gallon of water. Where pigeons'
dung cannot be had, two ounces of
sheep or deer's dung may be substi-
tuted to each gallon of water.

" It now only remains to add, that it
is most important in forcing roses to
mark all the plants, so that those intro-
duced into tlie frame in October, the
first year, may be introduced on the
same day, the second and every suc-
ceeding year. To secure this, paint
No. 1, 2, 3, &c., upon the pots them-
selves. No. 1 to go in first, and so on.

" Every year, about a fortnight be-
fore the plants are forced, they must be
shifted into larger pots, exactly one
inch wider in diameter, and not more,
turning them out without breaking the
ball or disturbing any of the fibres, and
filling the pots with the same compost
of hazel loam, charred turf, and vege-
table earth. By this method the same
plants may be forced for ten years,
without the inconvenience of using a
very large pot, as the last season they
will not want to be removed, or may
be shifted into the same pot again.

"With respect to pruning, I have
never been in the habit of leaving more
than two buds on each branch, and, as
the plants increase in size and number
of branches, often only one bud upon
the weaker branches. It is much bet-
ter to have from ten to twenty strong
blossoms than a larger number of weak
ones, and the foliaL'o is likewise more
healthy." — Gard. Mag.

Pot-Culture has been more fully dis-

ROS

520

ROS

cussed by Messrs. Paul and Son, the three times during winter, and a little
florists of Cheshunt, than by any other : newly slaked lime scattered throughout
authority ; and from their observations j to destroy worms and grubs. This ia

I have made these extracts : —

" Transplanting and Potting. — Early
in autumn, immediately after rain, re-
move both worked plants and others
from the ground. Such as have grown
moderately, Avith well ripened wood,

the soil used for the moss, but for the
delicate varieties, (Chinese, &c.,) it may
be improved by the addition of one part
leaf-mould or well pulverized manure."
Protection. — After potting, the plants
taken from the ground, should be re-

should be chosen. The pots best suit- ' moved to a cold pit, syringing and shad-
ed are numbers thirty-two, twenty-four, ing if sunny weather, for a week or ten
sixteen and twelve, according to the days. It will be well if the tender va-
size of the plant, and they should be rieties can be allowed to remain in the
well drained. The soil should be i pit during winter, at which season they
pressed firmly in the pots, watering i require scarcely any water, otherwise
freely afterwards, through a fine rose, I they should be removed to the north
to settle the soil. side of a wall or fence, and a thatch of

" The cultivation of the autumnals, ' fern or beech boughs, with the leaves

on their own roots, may be commenced
at any season, as they are usually kept
growing in pots. If purchased in spring,
in sixties, they may be immediately shift-
ed into forty-eights, then plunged, and
watered continually as required. Our
aim being to get the plants strong, they
should not be suffered to flower, but

on, formed. The hardy ones may be
removed from the pits about a month
after being potted, and plunged at once
in the open ground where intended to
be grown and flowered.

Pruning. — About the middle of No-
vember pruning may be performed, in
order to effect an early bloom. The

endeavour, through the growing season, j plants having been thinned out previ-
to bring them to form only a few vi- ously, all that is now required, is the
gorous shoots. To accomplish this it is shortening in of the remaining shoots,
advisable to rub out some of the buds i Among the hybrid Chinese, the two
when first pushing, but keeping in view j favourite old roses, Brcnnus and Ful-
the handsome formation of the plant. \ gens, both vigorous growers, frequently
"The plantsmay be shifted on through occasion great disappointment by not
the season ; and in the following spring blooming. The failure will probably

■we shall probably find them in sixteen
or twelve-sized pots, preparing for a
vigorous growth and bloom.

^'Thinning out. — When potting, all
suckers should be cut from the worked
plants, and straggling shoots shortened

be found to arise from the method of
pruning.

These roses, and others of like habit,
should be well thinned out, but the
shoots that are left for flowering short-
ened but little. Others of the same

back to within a few eyes. Where too [class (hybrid Chinese), that are weak

thick, some of the shoots may be cut
out entirely, from three to ten, accord-
ing to the age or growth of the plant,
being in most cases sufiicient. Thin-
ning, in summer, immediately after
flowering, is very beneficial. The best
ripened shoots should be left, and such
as stand in the best position. These
may be shortened in November and
March, some at both periods, to obtain
an early and late bloom.

''Soil. — Two parts of fresh turfy loam,
broken up but not sifted, two parts ma-
nure (road gatherings laid by for a sea-
son , or the remains of a hot-bed not too

growers, may be shortened in close,
such are General Allard and Lady Stuart.

There are also varieties of interme-
diate growth, which may be pruned in
proportion. The classes Gallica, Pro-
vence, and Moss, may be pruned closer
than the hybrid Chinese.

The autumnal roses there is but little
fear of pruning out of bloom ; early or
late, they are sure to flower. These,
when grown on their own roots, should
be cut down almost close to the ground,
to induce them to throw up suckers
from beneath, which will grow much
stronger than shoots formed above

far decomposed), and one part burnt I ground, and flower beautifully through

earth.

the summer and autumn. One point

" This compost should be thrown up i too should be borne in mind, that roses,
in a heap in autumn, and turned two or I when grown in pots, may be pruned

ROS

521

ROS

closer than when grown in the open improved by being drawn from Iheir

garden.

natural position of growth. Where

Removal of Tender Varieties. — By the flowers do not show themselves to

the end of March, if room cannot be advantage, or the shoots become much

granted them in pits or a green-house, crowded, the dwarf standards may be

the tender varieties may be brought improved in appearance, and really

from their winter residence and plunged benefited, by drawing the lower shoots

in an airy situation, and such as were downwards towards the edge of the

left unpruned for late flowering, should pot, where they may be fastened to a

now be pruned. But if allowed to re- piece of bast or wire made to pass be-

inain in the pits through spring, they neath the rim; the upper shoots may

will bloom much earlier, in greater then be drawn out to sticks ; or a neat

perfection, and with finer foliage.

hoop, fixed horizontally about the cen-

Plunging. — Place the pots so that tre of the head of the plant, admits of
the bottoms rest on an inverted seed- a very pretty method of arrangement,
pan or flower-pot. This secures drain- If the plant be large, two or even three
age, prevents the roots growing through hoops maybe requisite, to which the
the bottom of the pot into the soil, and shoots should be drawn inclined down-
is an effectual barrier to the ingress of wards ; as they are, when growing,
worms. The pots may be plunged level sure to rise sufficiently upwards,
with the ground, and so far apart that Shading. — When {he plants com-
the plants may not touch each other mence flowering, it will be necessary
when full grown. After plunging, it is to shade them during the middle of the
beneficial to cover the surface lightly day ; and the covering should be mova-

with stable manure.

Watering. — Water should be given
abundantly through the growing and
blooming season. Guano-water is an

ble, that they may have the advantage
of slight rains and dews. — Gard. and
Prac. Flor,

Diseases. See Extravasafed Sap, Cy-

excellent manure for roses in pots ; it nips, Mildew, Aphis, and Ornix.

should, however, be used cautiously. JIOSCOEA. Five species. Stove

If the plants require watering oflener herbaceous perennials. Division. Light

than once a week, pure water should turfy loam.

be given at the intervening periods

Disbudding, ^c. — When the buds
iirst push, if two or three break close
together, the weakest, or those taking
the least favourable direction, should
be rubbed out. Such shoots as are in-

ROSE. See Rosa.
ROSE ACACIA. Robinia Itispida.
ROSE BAY. EpiloUum angustifo-
Hum.

ROSE BEETLE. See Anisopia.
ROSEMARY. Rosmarinus officina-

clined to grow rank without blooming, lis

should be stopped or taken out, if not Varieties. — There are three varie-

wanted to form the head, for they ap- ties — the green, golden-striped, and

propriate to themselves the sap, which
should be directed into the flower
branches, and further render the plants
of uneven growth. When the flower-
buds are forming imperfectly, they
should be nipped out; and the size of

silver-striped. The first is in general
cultivation.

Soil and Situation. — It thrives best
on a poor light soil mixed with old
mortar, or other calcareous matters.
In such, or when the plants are self-

Ihe early flowers may be increased by raised on an old wall, they will bear
removing, at an early stage, the small
backward flower-buds.

Suckers from the stock should be in-
variably cut out. It will also be found
beneficial to keep the surface of the
soil constantly in a loose state.

Tying-up and Training. — As the
plants advance in growth, some will
require sticks to support the flowers,

our severest winters; but in a rich
soil they lose much of their aromatic
nature, and perish in frost. For the
green variety, the situation may be
open, but the other two being tender,
require to be planted beneath a south
wall, or in pots to be allowed the shel-
ter of a green-house in winter.

Propagation is by cuttings and rooted

and keep the shoots apart. But those , slips, during any of the spring months,
which hold their flowers gracefully and or by layers in the summer. But the
show themselves well are not, perhaps, finest plants are raised by seed, which.

ROS

522

ROT

and by layers, is the only mode of pro- derive different materials from tlie soil ;
pagating the gold and silver-striped and though the vegetables having the
varieties. Sow in March or early in i smallest systems of leaves, will propor-
April, in drills one inch deep and six tionately most exhaust the soil of corn-
inches apart. The rooted slips, and
the cuttings of the young shoots, must
be from five to seven inches long, and
planted in a shady border, in rows
eight or ten inches apart. Previously
to being inserted, remove the leaves
from the lower two-thirds of their
length. Layers may be formed by cut-
ting young branches half through on
their under side, and pegging them

mon nutritive matter, yet particular
vegetables, when their produce is car-
ried off, will require peculiar principles
to be supplied to the land in which
they grow. Strawberries and potatoes
at first produce luxuriantly in virgin
mould recently turned up from pasture,
but in a few years they degenerate and
require a fresh soil; and the organiza-
tion of these plants is such as to be
down an inch or two below the sur- ! constantly producing the migration of
face ; they become established plants their layers. Thus the strawberry by
by autumn. Water must be applied its long shoots is continually endea-
abundantly at the time of planting, vouring to occupy a new soil ; and the
and occasionally afterwards until es- fibrous radicles of the potato produce

tablished.

bulbs at a considerable distance from

The plants require no further care the parent plant. The most remarkable
than to be kept clear from weeds, and instance of the powers of the plant to
in September to be transplanted to re- ; exhaust the soil of certain principles
main, being performed, in preference, necessary to its growth, is found in
during mild "showery weather; but if certain fungi. Mushrooms are said

not removed thus early in the autumn,
they are best left until the following
March. They may be either grown
in rows two feet apart each way, or
trained in a fan form against a wall.

ROSE OF HEAVEN. Lychnis Call-
Rosa.

ROSE OF JERICHO. Anastatica.

ROSE OF THE WORLD. Camel-
lia japonica Rosa-mundi.

ROSE SNOWBALL TREE. Vibur-
num Opitlus roseum.

ROSMARINUS officinalis. See
Rosernary.

ROTATION IN CROPS. There are
three circumstances to be regarded in
regulating the order in which crops
should follow each other: — 1. Each
crop should be as dissimilar as possible
from its predecessor. 2. The exuviaj
of the preceding crop should not be
offensive to its successor, 3. A fusi-
form-rooted crop should succeed a
fibrous-rooted crop, or vice versa

never to rise m two successive seasons
on the same spot; and the production
of the phenomena called fairy-rings,
has been ascribed by Dr. Wollaston, to
the power of the peculiar fungus which
forms it to exhaust the soil of the nu-
triment necessary for the growth of the
species. The consequence is that the
ring annually extends, for no seeds
will grow where their parents grew
before them, and the interior part of the
circle has been exhausted by preceding
crops; but where the fungus has died,
nourishment is supplied for grass which
usually rises within the circle, coarse
and of a dark green colour."

Again, exhausting crops should never
be grown successively; and the follow-
ing observations of one of the best of
modern gardeners, the late Mr. G.
Sinclair, afford much light npon this
point : —

" If we take the weight of nutritive
matter which a plant affords from a

]. Dissimilarity in the following crop | given space of ground, the result will
is desirable, because, so far as the sa- 1 be found to agree with the daily expe-
line constituents of the soil are con- I rience in the garden and the farm ; and
cerned, every tribe of plants in some j the following figures represent the pro-
measure takes from it distinct food. 1 portion in which they stand to each
Sir H. Davy truly observed upon this ; other with respect to the weight of nu-
point, that, " though the general com- | tritive matter they contain, with their
position of plants is very analogous, having exhausted the land : —
yet the specific differences in the pro- '•' Potatoes .... 63
ducts of many of them, and other well Cabbage .... 42
ascertained facts, prove that they must Mangold wurzel ... 21

ROT

523

RUB

Carrots
Kohl-rabi .
Swedisli turnip .
Common turnip .

24
17
IG
14'-

" Brassicas after raspberries or straw-
berries ; peas after brassicas ; celery
after peas; celery after asparagus;
beans and brocoli after celery ; carrots

2. It is important that the exuvia; of f'f parsnips or beet after brocoli."—
a preceding crop should not be offen- Gcrd. Mas

sive to Its successor.

The writer of the Kitchen Garden

Thus, brassicas will not grow health- Calender in the Gardener's Chronicle for

ily upon soil where the immediately
previous crop was of the same tribe ;

1S44, (p. 72,) says, " the chief rule is
never to have two crops of the same

but if the ground be pared and burnt, class directly following each other."'
they will grow luxuriantly; and the He adds, that -'celery is a good pre-
same occurs to ground exhausted by paration for carrots, turnips, parsnips,
strawberries: if it be burned and ma- onions, and early cauliflowers, or for
nured, strawberries will grow as vigor- peas, with potatoes and winter greens
ously as upon fresh ground, but they or brocoli between the rows. Autumn-
will not do so if manure only is applied, sown onions, followed by spinach, let-
It has also been observed that the tuce, &c., and early cauliflowers by au-
roots of plants placed in water give out tumn onions. Spring-sown onions are
theircharacteristicflavoursto theliquid; well succeeded by cabbages in beds,
but on this, as evidence that they emit and scarlet runners between ; and if the
excrements, no great reliance can be ' cabbages remain through the summer
placed, for some of the roots, during i and next winter, the ground will be for
removal from the soil, must be wound- j celery, potatoes, and peas in the spring."
ed. The fict that the roots of plants In gardens of limited extent it is not al-
do give out peculiar and varying mat- j ways practicable to observe a system-
tcrs to tiie soil which sustains them,iatic rotation of crops, even though it
aids to explain why one rotation of crops i were as important to successful culture

is superior to another.

as some writers declare. For all prac-

3. As fusiform-rooted crops should tical purposes deep tillage will suffice,
precede or follow a fibrous-rooted crop, : and tliere can be little doubt that if the
because the one draws its chief supply j land be deeply dug or ploughed after
of food from a greater depth than an- each crop, and the exhaustion supplied
other, and, conse(]uently, exhausts a by manure, that the same description of

diff"erent portion of pasturage ; founded
upon these consiilerations, and sanc-
tioned by practice, the following rota
tions are recommended : —

Onions.

Lettuce.

Cabbage.

Carrots.

Manure.

Turnips.

Celery.

Peas.

Potatoes.

Manure.

Mr. Kelly, of Airthrey Castle, Scot-
land, says, that " on poor ground the
rotation he finds best is celery ; second
season, caulitlowers and red beet ; third, '^^^^^ situation
onions ; fourth, derman green, or peas.
By digging deep, and manuring abun

vegetable growth may be successfully
produced for successive seasons — in-
deed the only inmate of the garden
which we have seen tire the land, as it is
termed, is the pea. Some market gar-
deners, whether from habit, or an idea
that particular localities answer better
for certain vegetables, invariably use
them for such, and year after year the
same crop may be seen growing there-
on.

ROTHIA trifoliata. Hardy trailing
annual. Seeds. Common soil, and a

ROXBURGH I A. Two species.

dantly, for celery, the ground islrought I ^'°^'^ evergreen climbers. Suckers.

into such fine tilth, that the whole rola- Light turfy loam.

lion is often gone through without any ROYAL BAY. Lauriis nobilia.

gone tnrougli witnout any
further addition, and without failing in

ROYEXA. Eleven species. Green-

any of the crops. Another good rota- | 'io"s° evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings,
tion is strawberries, celery, cauliflow- Loam, peat, and sand.

ers." — Gard. Chron.

ROY LEA elesans. Green-house

Mr. Errington, gardener at Oulton I evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light rich
Park, Cheshire, recommends the fol- soil.

lowing as good successions : —

RUBIA. Five species. Hardy herb-

RUB

524

RUI

aceous perennials, and half-hardy ever- ; be separated into detached pieces; con-

green shrubs. Seeds or division. Com-
mon soil.

RUBUS. [Bramble.] Seventy-three
species, and some varieties. Hardy de-
ciduous trailers and shrubs, and a few
green-house and stove evergreens, as
well as herbaceous perennials. Rubus
IdcEus is the Raspberry. Suckers or cut-
tings. Rich loam.

RUDBECKIA. Thirteen species,
chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials.
R. amplesifolia is a hardy annual. R.
radula, a biennial. Division, seeds,
and common soil. R. napifolia is a
green-house perennial, succeeding best
in peat and loam.

RUDOLPHIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Suckers. Light
turfy loam.

RUE, or HERB GRACE. Rata
graveolens. Thrives best in a poor
clayey loam, mixed with calcareous
rubbish, in an open situation. It is
propagated by slips and cuttings, as well
as from seeds ; the first two modes be-
ing usually practised as being the most
easy. It may be planted or sown at any
time during the spring. The seed in
drills six inches apart, and one deep.
The seedlings are not long in making
their appearance, and only require to
be thinned to a similar distance in the
rows, and kept free of weeds. The
rooted slips, or cuttings, maj' be planted
on a poor, shady border, and watered
occasionally until taken root.

In the autumn, the plants may be
removed to their final compartment.

tiguity is not necessary nor even the
appearance of it, if the relation be pre-
served, but straggling ruins have a bad
effect, when the several parts are equal-
ly considerable.

There should be one large mass, to
raise an idea of greatness, to attract the
others about it, and to be a common
centre of union to all ; the smaller pieces
then mark the original dimensions of
one extensive structure ; and no longer
appear to be the remains of several little
buildings.

All remains excite an inquiry into
the former state of the edifice, and fix
the mind in a contemplation on the use
it was applied to ; besides the characters
expressed by their style and position,
they suggest ideas which would not
arise from the buildings, if entire.

The purposes of many have ceased ;
an abbey, or a castle, if complete, can
now be no more than a dwelling ; the
memory of the times, and of the man-
ners to which they were adapted, is
preserved only in history and in ruins ;
and certain sensations of regret, of ve-
neration, or compassion, attend the re-
collection ; nor are these confined to
the remains of buildings which are now
in disuse ; those ofan old mansion raise
reflections on the domestic comforts
once enjoyed, and the ancient hospital-
ity which reigned there. Whatever
building we see in decay, we naturally
contrast its present to its former state,
and delight to ruminate on the compari-
son. It is true that such effects pro-

During their after-growth, they must be I perly belong to real ruins ; but they are

kept pruned in a shrubby form, and
never be allowed to produce seed.
The decayed branches, &c., may be
removed in the spring and autumn, and
the surface of the bed stirred.

RUIN'S, are a class of buildings
beautiful as objects, expressive as cha-
racters, and peculiarly calculated to
connect with their appendages into ele-
gant groups : they may be accommo-
dated with ease to irregularity of ground,
and their disorder is improved by it;

produced in a certain degree by those
which are fictitious ; the impressions are
not so strong, but they are exactly sim-
ilar; and the representation, though it
does not jiresent facts to the memory,
yet suggests subjects to the imagination ;
but in order to affect the fancy, the sup-
posed original design should be clear,
the use obvious, and the form easy to
trace ; no fragments should be hazarded
without a precise meaninjj, and an evi-
dent connexion ; none should be per-

they may be intimately blended with I plexed in their construction or uncertain
trees and with thickets, and the inter- I as to their application. Conjectures
ruption is an advantage; for imperfec- ! about the form, raise doubts about the
tion and obscurity are their properties ; ! existence of the ancient structure ; the
and to carry the imagination to some- ! mind must not be allowed to hesitate ;
thing greater than is seen, their effect. I it must be hurried away from examining
They may for any of these purposes [ into the reality by the exactness and

RUI

SAG

the force of the resemblance. — Whate- but it is ridiculous and disgusting to

good taste, if complicated and elegant
Stove forms are constructed of rude materials.
Loam, Thus we have seen a tiower-box, in-
tended to be Etruscan in its outlines,

ley.

R U I Z I A . Two species
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
peat and sand.

RUN. A plant advancing to seed is formed of split hazel stakes — a comhi-
Baid by gardeners to have "run." Also, nation of the rude and the refined, giv-
when the dark colouring of a carnation, ing rise to separate trains of ideas to-
or other flower, becomes confused or tally unassociable.

clouded with its lighter ground colour, RITTA. Two species. Hardy and

half-hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Light rich soil. See Rue.

RUYSCIHA clusitrfolia. Stove ever-
green shrub. Ripe cuttings. Loam and
vegetable mould.

RYANCEA speciosa. Stove ever-
green shrub. Ripe cuttings. Peat and
loam.

RYTIDOPHYLLUM auricula-
turn. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Peat and loam.

SABAL. Five species. Stove palms.
Suckers. Light loamy soil.

SABBATL\. Five species. Hardy
biennials, except S. paniculata, an
herbaceous perennial. Seeds. Com-
mon soil.

SACCO LABIUM. Ten species.
Stove orchids. Peat, potsherds, and
wood .

SACRED BEAX. Xelumbium.
SAFFRON". Crocus saiivus.
SAGE. Salvia officinalis.
Varieties. — The Common Green ;
Wormwood ; Green, with variegated
leaves; Red, with variegated leaves;
Painted or Parti-coloured : Spanish or
Lavender leaved ; and Red.

Soil and Situation. — A dry mode-
ratelv fertile soil is best suited to their

they say it is " a run flower." Abund-
ance of moisture and a rich soil promote
the development of leaves, and, con-
sequently, check running, or producing
seed. A suitably fertile soil also pre-
serves the colours of a flower pure and
distinct — over-fertility or poverty of soil
will equally cause the colours to run.

RUXiNERS are young shoots issuing
from the collar or summit of the root,
and creeping along the surface of the
soil, but producing a new root and leaves
at the extremity, and forming a new in-
dividual, by the decay of the connect-
ing link. This takes place in a great
variety of herbs, but particularly the
strawberry, which is a good example.

They afford very ready and unfailing
means of increasing the species or va-
riety, all the care required being to see
that the plantlet is well rooted before
the connecting string is divided.

RUSCUS. Butcher-s Broom. Five
species. Chiefly hardy evergreen shrubs, j
Suckers. Common soil. R.androgynus
is a green-house evergreen climber.
Division. Rich soil.

RUSSELL\. Four species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Light rich
soil.

RUST. A disease of the berries of growth, \n a sheltered situation.
the grape. It appears in the form of a Propagation. — By Cuttings. — These
rough, rusty appearance of their skins, may be either of the preceding or same
which have, in fact, become thick and In- year's growth ; if of the first, plant in
durated. Some think it arises from their April, but if of the latter, not until the
being handled, or the hair of the head close of May or middle of June. The
touching them ; but the disease is often shoots of the same year are usually em-
too general to admit of this topical ployed, as they more readily emit roots,
explanation. I believe it to arise from and assume a free growth. The out-
an over-heating of the vinery, however ward and most robust shoots should be

unintentional, whilst the grapes were chosen, and cut from five

young, and thus tending to force them

to a premature rapidity of growth. Any

excessive pressure upon the cuticle,

whether from within or from without,

causes its thickening.

RUSTIC STRUCTURES are pleas

0 seven
inches in length. All but the top
leaves being removed, insert by the
dibble almost down to these, in rows
six inches apart each way, in a shady
border, and during moist weather,
otherwise water must be given imme-

ing in recluse portions of the pleasure diately, and repeated occasionally, until
ground, if this style be confined to the they have taken root. When the plants
formation of either a seat, or a cottage ; thus raised have an appearance of spind-

SAG

526

SAL

ling, or run up to flower, they are to be j finest plants of two years' growtli must
topped to induce laterals. In the au- [ be left, not nearer to each other than
tumn, if they have attained a tolerably j four feet, and when the plants begin to
shrubby growth, otherwise not until the , flower, a plentiful watering given, and
succeeding spring, remove to their final repeated every other day until the seed
stations; being taken up with as little j has attained its full growth. When
injury as possible to the roots, and perfectly ripe, the plants being pulled
planted, if in a bed in rows two feet up, and completely dried, they easily

apart each way.

By Slips. — When there are rooted
slips, they may be taken off separately,
with their fibrous roots still pertaining,
or the whole plant may be taken up and
divided into as many separate slips as
can be furnished with roots. These
may be planted both in spring and au-
tumn, but the first season is to be pre-
ferred. Set out at once where they are
to remain.

By Seed is the most preferable mode,
the plants affording finer flavoured,
larger and greater abundance of leaves,
than those raised by other modes. Sow
in April, in a bed of rich light earth, in
drills half an inch deep, and six inches I Ascyron.
apart. The plants soon make their ap- i SALADING.
pearance, and when two or three inches ! American Cress,
high, thin to half a foot apart, and those I Beet Root,
removed prick out at a similar distance. Borage.
In the autumn or succeeding spring, as ! Burnet,
the plants are strong or weak, remove ; Celeriac.
them to their final stations. I Celery.

After-Culture. — During their future | Chervil,
existence, keep constantly clear of j Corn Salad,
weeds. The decayed flower-stalks, ; Cress,
stunted branches, &c., remove in early t Dandelion,
winter and spring, and the soil of the ' Endive,
beds slightly turn over. All irregular • Finochio.
growth may be corrected during the: Garden Rocket,
spring and summer. When the plants I SALICORNIA.

have continued two or three years, a | and green-house evergreen shrubs and
little dry, well putrefied dung maybe j creepers. Hardy annuals and half-
turned in during early spring with con- i hardy perennials. Seeds or division,
siderable advantage. A due attention Common soil.

to the mode of gathering has no small ! SALISBURIA adiantifoUa. Maiden
influence in keeping the plants healthy I Hair Tree. Hardy deciduous tree.

shed their seed if struck on the floor.

S A G I T T A R I A . Fifteen species.
Hardy, half-hardy, stove and green-
house aquatic perennials. Division.
Loamy soil.

SAGUS. Four species. Stove palms.
Sandy loam and a strong moist heat.

ST. ANDREW'S CROSS. Ascyrum
Crux AndrecE.

ST. BARNABY'S THISTLE. Cen-
taurea solstitialis.

SAINTFOIN. Onobrychis.

ST. JOHN'S WORT. Hypericum.

ST. MARTIN'S FLOWER. Als-
trameria Flos-Martini.

ST. PETER'S WORT. Hypericum

See the following ;
Horse Radish.
Lettuce.
Mint.
Mustard.
Onions.
Purslane.
Radishes.
Rape.

Scurvy Grass.
Succory.
Water Cress.
Wood Sorrel.

Six species. Hardy

and vigorous. The tops ought never to
be cropped too close, so as to render
the branches naked or stumpy. This
should be especially attended to in au-
tumn and winter. During this last sea-

Layers. Common soil. " The Salis-
buria is a native of Japan and China,
and forms a large tree in its native
country. Bunge, who accompanied the
Russian mission to China, states, that

son, they are less liable to be injured i he saw one with a trunk nearly forty
by severe frost, if kept with a full re- | feet in circumference. Mr. Loudon
gularhead. If appearance is consider- I says, the tree grows with considerable
ed, fresh plants must he raised every [ rapidity in the climate of London, and
three or (bur years. P'or drying, the has attained the height of forty or fifty
shoots and leaves may be gathered any feet, in as many years. The longevity
time in summer before the plants flower, : of the Salisburia promises to be great,
which they do in July. as the largest trees in England continue

To obtain Seed. — Two or three of the \ to grow with as much vigour, as when

SAL

527

SAL

newly planted. The highest tree tliere, flavour is that of oyster patties. — Aber-

planted in 1767, was, in 1S3S, above
sixty feet.

" It was introduced into the United
States, by Mr. Hamilton, in 1784, and
the tree now growing at the Woodlands,
near Philadelphia, is, doubtless, the
one then imported. A specimen at the
Landreth Nurseries, when planted is
unknown, has attained the height of 50

cromhie. Hovey-s Mag.

SALTPKTIIE. See Salts,— Nitrate
of Potash.

SALTS. The day has long passed
when it was disputed whether any saline
bodies are promotive of the growth of
plants. It is now determined that some
plants will not even live without the
means of procuring certain salts. Bo-

feet and continues in fine health. There , rage, the nettle, and parietaria will not
is also one of considerable size in the exist except where nitrate of potash is

Mall, at Boston." — Comp. Florist.

SALIX. The Willow. One hundred
and eighty-five species. Hardy decidu-
ous shrubs and trees. Cuttings. Swampy
soil.

SALMEA. Two species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Young cuttings.
Light rich soil.

SALPIGLOSSIS sinuata, and its va-
rieties. Hardy and green-house annuals
and biennials. Seeds. Peat and loam.

SALSAFY. Tragopogon porrifolius.

in the soil ; turnips, lucerne, and some
other plants will not succeed where
there is no sulphate of lime. These
are facts that have silenced disputation.
Still there arc found persons who main-
tain that salts are not essential parts of
a plant's structure; they assert that
such bodies are beneficial to a plant by
absorbing moisture to the vicinity of its
roots, or by improving the staple of the
soil, or by some other secondary mode.
This, however, is refuted by the fact
that salts enter as intimately into the

Soil. — This should be light and mode- constitution of plants as do ])liosphate

rately fertile. At the time of sowing
trench it, turning in a little manure with
the bottom spit only.

Sow in March and April, in an open
situation to remain, in shallow drills,
nine inches asunder, scatter the seeds

of lime into that of bones, and carbo-
nate of lime into that of egg-shells.
They are part of their very fabric, uni-
versally present, unremovable by edul-
coration however long continued, re-
maining after the longest washing, and

thinly, and cover them half an inch j always to be found in the ashes of all

deep. When the plants are up two or
three inches high, thin and weed them,
leaving them ten inches asunder, re-
peating the weeding as may be required
during the summer and during very dry
weather, watering occasionally very

and of any of their parts, when sub-
jected to incineration. Thus Saussure
ol)serves that the phosphate of lime is
universally present in plants. — Sur la
Veget, c. 8. s. 4.
The sap of all trees contains acetate

plentifully, and if half an ounce of guano of potash ; Beet-root contains malate
is added to each gallon of water it will and oxalate of potash, ammonia and
be very beneficial. This is all the cul- lime; Rhubarb, oxalate of potash and
ture they require. They will have large j lime ; Horse-radish, sulphur; Aspara-
roots by September or October; when g-us, super-malates, chlorides, acetates,
you may begin taking them up for use; ' and phosphates of potash and lime ;
and in November, when the leaves be- Potatoes, magnesia, citrates and phos-
gin to decay, a quantity may be pre- phates of potash and lime; Jerusalem
served in sand for use in time of severe I ^r^/c/io/ce, citrate, malate, sulphate,
frost; but those left in the ground will chloride, and phosphate of potash;
not be injured. In spring, when those j Garlic, sulphate of potash, magnesia,
remaining in the ground begin to vege- ! and phosphate of lime ; Geraniums,
tate, the shoots when a few inches high | tartrate of lime, phosphates of lime and
may be cut for use as asparagus, being magnesia ; Peas, phosphate of lime ;
excellent when quite young and tender. ! JiTidnei/ Beans, phosphate of lime and
Suffer, however, ahvays a few plants to : potash ; Oranges, carbonate, sulphate,
run up to stalk every spring to produce and muriate of potash; Apples and
seed.

Pears, malate of potash ; Grapes, tar-
trate of lime ; Capsicums, citrate, mu-
riate, and phosphate of potash ; Oak,
into cakes and fry them in butter. The i carbonate of potash ; and the Lilac,

The best mode of cooking the roots ' trate of lime ; Capsicums, citrate, mu-
is to boil and mash them, form them ; riate, and phosphate of potash ; Oak,

SAL

528

SAL

nitrate of potash. Let no one fancy
that the salts are a very trivial propor-
tion of the fabric of plants. In the
Capsicum, they constitute one-tenth of

narcissus, ranunculus, Stc. ; and in the
fruit garden it has been found beneficial
to almost every one of its tenants, espe-
cially the cherry and apple. On lawns

its fruit ; of carrot juice, one-hundredth; i and walks it helps to drive away worms,

of Rhubarb, one-eleventh ; of Potatoes
one-twentieth; whilst of the seed of the
Lithospermum officinale, they actually
constitute more than one-half. Their
constituents are as follows. —

Carbonate of lime . . . 43.7

Silica 16.5

Vegetable matter, phos-
phate of lime, &c. .
These amounts are nearly as much
of earthy saline matters as exist in hu-
man bones ; but if we turn to the mar-

39.8

and to destroy moss.

Ammonia. — The salts of ammonia
are highly stimulating, and afford by
their ready decomposition, abundant
food to plants. The dungs of animals
are fertilizing exactly in proportion to
the amount of ammonia in them. The
only care required is not to apply them
too abundantly. Half an ounce to each
gallon of water, given at the most twice
a week, is a good recipe for all the am-
moniacal salts. The ammoniacal gas

row, it only contains one-twentieth of liquor at the rate of one pint to two
saline matters; the blood only one- i gallons of water, is highly beneficial to
hundredth; muscle, only one-thirty- spinach and grass. — Gard. Chron.
fourth ; yet no one will argue that these
saline constituents, though smaller than
those in vegetables, are trivial and un-
important.

Saline manures are generally bene-
ficial, and often essential. An import-
ant consideration, therefore, is con-
tained in the answer to the query — so
often put. How should saline manures
be applied ? Our answer is, that, when
practicable, they ought to be in very
small quantities and frequently, during
the time of the plant's growth. No
plan can be worse than soaking seed in

Phosphate of Ammonia has been ap-
plied with advantage to cress.

Sulphate of Ammonia. — This, and the
nitrate of ammonia, have proved bene-
ficial to potatoes in Scotland. A writer
in the FloricuUural Cabinet says, that
having obtained a pailful of gas liquor,
he diluted it with water, and added
some sulphuric acid, thus forming a
solution of sulphate of ammonia, and
watered with it in October, a bed (twen-
ty feet long by four feet two inches
wide) destined to be planted with Ra-
nunculuses. They bloomed very strong

a saline solution, for the purpose of. i'l this bed, some of the flower-stems

giving such salt to the plant of which it
will be the parent. It is soddeningthe
embryo with a superfluity totally use-
less to it, and if it does not injure the
germination, it will be most probably
washed away before the roots begin to
absorb such nutriment. For the mode
in which salts are beneficial to plants,
see Manures.

were two feet high ; the blooms averag-
ing between three and four inches in
diameter; the roots also lifted large
and clean. — Flor. Cab.

Chalk may be applied in large quan-
tities, twenty or thirty tons per acre, to
render a light siliceous soil more re-
tentive or a heavy soil more open. Its
basis, lime, enters into the composition

Common Salt. — Chloride of sodium, ' of most plants in some state of combi-
applied in the spring at the rate of | nation. It is very far from immaterial
twenty bushels per acre, has been found where this mineral is obtained from to
very beneficial to asparagus, broad improve the staple of our soils. Those
beans, lettuces, onions, carrots, pars- [ chalks which are merely carbonate of
neps, potatoes, and beets. Indeed its lime, with a trace of oxide of iron, are
properties are so generally useful, not I unexceptionable ; but there are some
only as promoting fertility, but as de- i which contain phosphate of lime, and
stroying slugs, 8e.c., that it is a good these are very much to be preferred,
plan to sow the whole garden every ! Mr. Brande states the chalk of Brighton

March with this manure, at the rate
above specified. The flower garden is
included in this recommendation ; for
some of the best practical gardeners
recommend it for the stock, hyacinth,
amaryllisj ixia, anemone, colchicum,

to be thus constituted.
Carbonate of lime .
magnesia

98.57
0.38

Phosphate of lime . . 0.11
Oxides of iron and manganese 0.14
Alumina and silica . . 0.80

SAL

529

SAL

If the chalk is to be burnt into lime
beforq it is applied, care should be
taken that it does not contain, like some
ofthe Yorkshire chalks, a large propor-
tion of carbonate of magnesia. Mag-
nesia remains long in a caustic state,
and has been found injurious to the
plants to which it has been applied

is further sustained by the experiments
of Dr. Jackson, the American chemist.
He found phosphates in peas and beans
of various kinds, in pumpkin seeds,
chestnuts, potatoes, raspberries, and
turnips. See Bones.

Super-Phosphate of Lime. — Chrysan-
themums were much increased in vi-

Ckloride of Lime gradually gives out gour when watered with a solution of
a portion of its chlorine, and is con- this salt in the Chiswick Garden, at the
verted into muriate of lime, a very de-
liquescing salt, which can hardly exist
in any soil, however light, without
keeping it moist ; and its nauseous
odour may be found to keep off the
attacks ofthe fly, and other vermin. A
solution containing one ounce in five
gallons of water, is said to destroy the
aphis and the caterpillar, if poured over
the trees thev infest.

end of July. It is thought, if the appli-
cation had been made earlier, the be-
nefit would have been still more marked.
Professor Lindley says this salt seems
to have a beneficial effect on most
plants, and that it may be applied in
different proportions without the least
risk of injuring the plants. — Card.
Chron.

Heaths appear to like it. The best

Gas Lime is a hydro-sulphuret of lime, practical mode of obtaining super-phos-

^l^_^^^ ^j. jjjj^g j.^j. manure, is to pour
one pound of sulphuric acid, mixed
with one pound of water, upon each
two pounds of bone dust, allowing the
mixture a week to complete the decom-
position. Sulphate of lime and super-
phosphate of lime are the result. The
Duke of Richmond and others have

with a little ammonia. It is an excel
lent manure, especially to cabbages,
turnips, cauliflowers, and brocoli, dug
in at the time of planting or sowing.
If sown over the surface at the time of
inserting the crop, at the rate of twenty
bushels per acre, it will etfectually
drive away the turnip-fly, slug, &c

Gypsum, or Plaster of Paris, is sul- ; tried this with very great success upon

phate of lime, composed of

Sulphuric acid ... 43

Lime 33

Water .... 22

It has been found very useful as a

top dressing to lawns, and dug in for

turnips and potatoes. Three hundred

weight per acre is abundance

turnips. It being in a liquid form, it
must be mixed with earth to facilitate
its application, or else be applied
through the rose of a watering-pot.

SALT TREE. Halimodendron.

SALVIA. See Clary and Sage.
One hundred and five species. The

Nitrates of Potash (Saltpetre), and of ^ shrubby, stove, and green-house kinds,

increase by cuttings ; the herbaceous,
by division ; the annuals and biennials,
-seeds. Common soil suits them all.
S. patens makes a splendid bed. The

Soda (Cubic Petre), have been found
beneficial to carrots, cabbages, and
lawns. One pound to a square rod of
ground is a sufficient quantity. Both

these nitrates have been found bene- Hower-spikes should be cut off for a

fii:ial to potatoes in Scotland. Mr.
Murray says that, from 1810 down to
the present time, he has been in the
habit of watering pinks and carnations
with solutions of these two nitrates,
and the benefit has been uniform and
eminent in promoting their luxuriance.
— Gard. Gaz.

Tliey have also been given in solu-

time, and the young shoots regularly
pegged down till they nearly cover the
bed, when the flowers will be produced
so numerously as to form one mass of
intense blue. — Gard. Chron.

Mr. Vaux, of Ryde, in the Ise of
Wight, says, that there " it ripens seeds
perfectly in the open air. Sow it in
pots in autumn ; put the pots in a cool

tion with great benefit to lettuces, j frame protected from frost, where they
celery, fuchsias, and dahlias. One may remain during the winter. In the
pound to twelve gallons of water. 1 spring, place in the green-house when

Nitrate of Soda destroys slugs.

Phosphate of Lime. — The importance part of May, bed them out ; they bloom
of bones and other manures containing beautifully during the summer and au-
phosphoric salts as a general manure, turan
34

the seedlings come up ; and in the early
Vlay, bed them out ; they bloom
lly during the summer and au-
For beds they arc superior to

SAM

530

S A V

cuttings, as they grow dwarf and more
bushy." — Gard. Chron.

SAMBUCUS. Elder. Seven spe-
cies and many varieties. All hardy.
The deciduous shrubby kinds are in-
creased by cuttings ; the herbaceous
perennials, by division. They will
grow in any soil. See Elder.

SAMOLUS. Three species. Green-
house or hardy herbaceous perennials.
Division. Common soil, and a rather
moist situation.

SAMPHIRE. Crithmum maritimum,
though a native of the sea-shore, may

hardy and half-hardy herbaceous peren-
nials and creepers. Division, ^eeds,
and also by young cuttings of the
branching species. Sandy loam and
peat.

SARACHA. Three species. Hardy
trailing annuals. S. viscosa, a green-
house deciduous shrub, is increased by
cuttings, the others by seeds. Common
soil.

SARCANTHUS. Six species. Stove
orchids. Cuttings. Moss, potsherds,
and wood, and a moist atmosphere.

SARCOCAPNOS enneaphylla. Hardy

be cultivated successfully in the garden. I herbaceous perennial. Seeds or cut-

So//. — It requires a sandy or gravelly
soil, and the north side of a wall.

Propagation. — The roots may be
planted, or the seed sown, in April;
the only cultivation required being to
keep the plants free from weeds, and to
water it about twice a week with water
containing half an ounce of guano and
one ounce of salt per gallon.

SAMYDA. Seven species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

SAND is one of the agents most fre-
quently employed by the gardener in
the culture of potted plants. The kind
most suitable to his purpose, is either
silver sand, or drift river-sand, both of
which are silica nearly in a state of
purity. These sands being very slow
conductors of heat, and affording a
ready escape for superfluous moisture,
are admirably adapted for promoting
the rooting of cuttings, and preventing
the damping-oft' of seedlings. See Po^-
ting, Soil, and Damping-^.

SAND WOOD. Bremontiera am-
moxylon.

SANGUINARIA. Two spe-
cies. Hardy tuberous-rooted peren-
nials. Division or seeds. Sandy loam
or peat.

SANGUISORBA. Burnet. Eight
species. Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Division, seeds. Common soil. See
Burnet.

SANSEVIERA. Fourteen species.
Stove herbaceous perennials. Suckers.
Sandy loam. S. carnea is hardy.

SANTOLINA. Five species. Hardy
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Common
soil.

SANVITALIA procumbens. Hardy

trailing annual. Seeds. Common soil.

SAPONARIA. Soapwort. Thirteen

species. Hardy annuals and biennials,

tmgs. Common soil, rock work.

SARCOCAULON. Three species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam, peat, leaf-mould, and sand.

SARCOCEPHALUS esculentus. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam, peat,
and sand.

SARCOLOBUS. Two species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Rich
mould.

SARCOPHYLLUM carnosum.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand.

SARCOSTEMMA. Two species.
Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings.
Sandy loam.

SARRACENIA. Side Saddle
Flower. Five species. Half-hardy
herbaceous perennials. Divisions. Peat
and sphagnum. They require a close
damp atmosphere.

SASSAFRAS. Laurus sassafras.

SATUREIA. Savory. Seven spe-
cies. Hardy and half-hardy evergreen
shrubs, and herbaceous perennials. S,
hortensis is an annual. Division, slips,
cuttings, seeds. Dry light sandy soil.
See Savory.

SATYRIUM. Eight species. Green-
house tuberous-rooted orchids. Divi-
sion. Sandy loam and peat.

SAURAU'JA. Two species,
evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings,
and peat.

SAUROGLOSSUM elatum.
orchid. Division. Sandy peat.

SAUSSUREA. Twelve species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division
or seeds. Common soil.

SAUVAGESIA. Two species. Stove
annuals. Seeds. Peat and loam.

SAVORY. Satureia.

S. montana, winter or perennial sa-
vory. S. hortensis, summer or annual
savory.

Stove
Loam

Stove

SAW

531

SCH

They niriy be sown in the open
ground in spring. In the latter end
of March or in April, sow the seed in
a light rich soil, moderately thick, and
rake them in evenly; the seedlings
soon come up; give occasional weed-
ing, and thin them moderately, and they
may either remain where sown, or may
be transplanted. Observe, however, I
of the Winter Savory, that when the
seedlings are about two or three inches I
high, it is eligible to plant out a quan-
tity of the strongest, in moist weather,
in nursery rows six inches asunder, to
remain till September or spring follow-

rough surface occasions decay. See
Bill.

SAW-WORT. Serratula.

SAXIFR.4.GA. Saxifrage. Ninety-
two species, and some varieties. Chief-
ly hardy herbaceous perennials ; a few
are annuals, and some half-hardy. —
Seeds. Division. Light sandy soil.

SCABIOSA. Seven species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Seeds. Com-
mon soil.

SCABIOUS. Scabiosa.

SC.y.VA. Hawk Fly. Of this genus
there are several species, of which the
most common are S. 7ibesii and S. py-

ing, then to be transplanted with balls rastri. Wherever aphides are abun-

where they are finally to remain,
rows a foot asunder. But the Annual
or Summer Savory may either remain
where sown, thinning the plants to six
or eight inches' distance, or when two
inches high may be pricked out in beds,
in rows the above distance ; in either
case the plants will become useful in
June or July, and until winter. Or
when designed to have the Winter or
Summer Savory remain where sown,
the seeds may be sown in shallow drills,

dant, whether on the cabbage, hop, or
elsewhere, there is a fleshy green mag-
got. This is the larva of a hawk-fly,
and should be left undisturbed, as it is
a voracious destroyer of plant lice. —
Card. Chron.

SC^-EVOLA. Eight species. Green-
house herbaceous perennials, or stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Turfy
loam, peat, and sand.

SCALLION. See Ciboule.

SCARES are but very ineflicient pro-

eithcr in beds, or along the edge of any tections ; for birds soon sit on the very

bed or border by way of an edging

branches which bear the malkin. To

By Slips, ^-c.—ln the spring or early lighten them eff"ectually, it is best to
part of summer, the Winter Savory may employ boys, for the short time scaring
be increased plentifully by slips or cut- '« required. Over seed beds a net is
tings of the young shoots or branches, 'he best protection; but threads taut-
five or six inches long ; plant them with I fined across the beds, are said to be
a dibble, in any shady border, in rows equally efficacious,
six inches asunder, giving occasional SCARLET POMPONE. Lilium pom-
waterings, and they will be well rooted ponnim
by September, when they may be trans-
planted.

SAW-DUST mixed with dung of any
sort speedily decays, and forms a very
valuable manure. In one instance, the
dung of four rabbits and their young
ones, saw-dust in their hutches l)eing
used instead of straw, was the only
manure used upon one-quarter of an , *"^ Pf J^" .
acre.— Card. C/iron, \ ^^»^\^\j

SAW-FLY. See Athalia.

SAWS for garden pruning must have

a double row of teeth, to obviate the green-house, and hardy herbaceous

tendency to nip, that the dampness of perennials. Division or seeds. Peat

green wood and the leverage of the and loam,

branch occasions. One with a very SCHIZANDRA coccii

narrow blade, and one with a handle house evergreen trailer. Ripe

six feet long, will be found convenient, tings. Sandy loam and peat.
The face of the wound made by a saw

SCEPTRANTHES Dru/nmond/. Half-
hardy tuberous-rooted perennial. Off"-
sets. Rich mould.

SCHELHAMMERA. Two species.
Green-house herbaceous perennials.
Division. Peat and loam.

SCHIMIDELIA. Five species. Stove
evergreen tree. Ripe cuttings. Loam

S. Two species. Stove
evergreen tree and shrub. Ripe cut-
tings. Common soil.

SCHIZ.'EA. Five species. Stove,

Green-
cut-

SCHIZANTHLS. Six species. Har-
should always be cut smooth with the dy annuals. Seeds. Light soil,
knife, otherwise the wet lodging on its SCHIZOMERIA ovata. Green-hous

S CH

532

S CI

Stove
Loam,

Stove

Stove
Loam,

evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and
sandy peat.

SCIIIZOPETALON Walkeri. Half-
hardy annual. Seeds. Loam, peat,
and sand.

SCIIOMBURGHIA. Three species.
Stove orchids. Division. A block ot
wood, or turfy heath mould and pot-
sherds.

SCHOTIA. Five species. Stove or
green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

SCHRADERA cephalotes.
evergreen climber. Cuttings.
peat, and sand.

SCHRANKIA. Two species
and half-hardy herbaceous perennials.
Young cuttings or division. Loam,
peat, and sand.

SCHUBERTIA gravcolens
evergreen twiner. Cuttings,
peat, and sand.

SCLERA. A genus of ]Midges. S.
Jiyri, Small Pear Midge. S. Schmid-
bergeri, Large Pear Midge. When a
fallen pear is cut open, it is often found
core-eaten, and with a brown powder
marking the progress of the assailant.
This is caused by the larva of these
insects. The midges appear early in
July. M. Kollar says, that the small
pear midge has club-shaped halteres,
the club dark brown, and the stem
whitish. When alive, the abdomen is
of a lead colour, with black wings.
The head and thorax are black, as are
also the antennae ; the palpi are of a
pale yellow, the feet whitish, and the
tarsi black.

The Large Pear Midge appears
about the same time as the preceding.
M. Kollar thus describes it: "The
female is little more than a line long,
and half a line thick, also much larger
than the smaller pear midge ; the male is
more slender, and somewhat shorter.
The antennffi are blackish, and not so
long as the body. The head is black
and shining, as is also the thorax ; the
proboscis ash-gray, the abdomen of the
male a deep black, that of the female
browner, with black wings ; the anal
point, however, is quite black. The
feet ash-gray, and the tarsi and wings
black. They both survive the winter,
and deposit their eggs in the blossom,
when it opens in early spring. The
larva eats its way into the core of the
young fruit, and again eats its way out

it to bury itself in the ground, and pass
into the chrysalis form." — Kollar.

SCILLA. Scjuill. Thirty-onespecies,
and many varieties. All bulbous per-
ennials, and chiefly hardy. S. hrevi-
folia is a green-house, S. indica is a
stove species. Offsets. Light soil.

SCIODAPHYLLUM. Seven species.
Stove or green-house evergreen trees,
shrubs, and climbers. Cuttings. Loam,
peat, and sand.

SCION is the portion of the branch
selected for insertion in the stock, and
destined to become the future plant.
The following directions, given by Mr.
Loudon, embrace all the information
generally applicable to the subject.
All particular directions will be found
under the title of the plant to be graft-
ed from : —

" Scions are generally the shoots of
last summer's growth, from the outside
lateral branches of healthy trees, be-
cause in them the shoots are not so
robust and apt to run to wood as in the
centre and top of the tree, nor so weak
as those which are at its base, and un-
der the shade and drip of the rest. An
exception to this rule is to be found in
the case of debilitated trees, where the
scions should be taken from the strong-
est shoots. The middle part of each
shoot makes always the best scion; but
long shoots, and especially where the
scion is of a rare variety, may be cut
into several scions of four or six inches
in length, reserving not fewer than two
nor more than five eyes to form the
future head of the tree.

" Scions should be cut several weeks
before the season for grafting arrives;
the reason is that grafting may most
successfully be performed by allowing
the stock to have some advantage over
the graft in forwardness of vegetation.
It is desirable that the sap of the stock
should be in brisk motion at the time
of grafting ; but by this time the buds
of the scion, if left on the parent tree,
would be equally advanced ; whereas,
the scions being gathered early, the
buds are kept back, and ready only to
swell out when placed on the stock.
Scions of pears, plums, and cherries
are collected in the end of January or
beginning of February. They are kept
at full length, sunk in dry earth, and
out of the reach of frost, till wanted,
which is sometimes from the middle

at one side, when the time arrives for i of February to the middle of March.

SCI

533

SCO

Scions of apples are collected any time
in February, and put on from tlie mid-
dle to the end of ^^il^ch. The Scions
are used as gathered." — Enc. Card.

It is quite true that tlie scion " over-
rideth the stock ;" — a peach scion pro-

SCOPARIA dulcis. Stove annual.
Seeds. Sandv loam.

SCOPOLIA"cf7rn/o/(Va. Hnrdy herb-
aceous perennial. Division. Light dry
soil.

SCOPVL \ forficalis, Garden Pebble

duces its peculiar foliage, fruit, &c., Moth, is thus accurately described by
though grafted npon a plum stock ; yet Mr. Curtis: — "The perfect insect mea-

the stock influences the habits and pro-
duce of the scion. Thus an apricot is
said to have been worked on a green-
gage plum, and a quince upon the au-

sures rather more thin an inch across,
when its wings are expanded. The
upper pair are hazel-coloured, with
four stripes, two of which are distinct,

tumn bcrgamot pear; the apricot be- and the other faint; the under wings
came as juicy as the green-gage, and as well as tlie body are whitish, and
far more delicate ; the quince was much I on the former, near the centre, there

Fig. 151.

more tender, and less gritty. See '

Stocks and Grafting.

SCISSORS of vari-
ous sizes are required
by the gardener. A
pair with very sharp
and pointed blades is
required for cutting

is a curved brown streak and another
black on the margin. The first brood
of cater[)illars occurs in May, and the
second in the autumn; and when very
numerous they do considerable injury
to cabbages and plantations of horse-
radish. The caterpillar is eight or ten
lines long, with the head of a light
aw'av the anthers oT brown colour, and the body is yellowish

flowers in hybrydiz-
ing. Stouter pairs
are used for removing
flower stalks, when
the petals havefillen
from roses, &c. Slid-
ing pruning scissors
(Fig. 151) are em-
ployed for cutting the
shoots ofshrubs; they
are powerful instru-
ments for the pur-
pose. See Shears.
SCLEROTHAMNUS micropliyUua.
Orecn-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

SCOLOPENDRIUM. Two species,
and many varieties. Ferns. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Seeds and di-
vision. Rock work.

SCOLYMUS. Three species. S.
maculatus is a hardy annual, the others
hardy herbaceous perennials. Division
or seeds. Common soil.

green, with black longitudinal stripes.
Almost the only method of destroying
these caterpillars, is to hand-pick them,
which, from their small size, will be
very tedious; if, however, a mat or
piece of linen be laid under the infest-
ed plants, they may be shaken into it,
and thus a great number be collected
in a short time." — Gard. Chron.

SCORPION. Genista scorpius.

SCORPION GRASS. Myosotis.

SCORPION SENNA. Coronilla
emerus.

SCORZONERA. Seventeen species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials. S. villosa
is a biennial. Seeds. Common soil.

S. hispTnica. Common Scorzonora.
Though a perennial, yet, for general
use, it should be treated as an annual.
Sow annually in any open light spot of
ground, the latter end of March or be-
ginning of April, not earlier, lest the
plants run to seed. Trench the ground,
and with the bottom spit turn in a little

SCOLYTUS. A genns of Beetles, dung; sow in shallow drills, twelve

S. hamorrfious, small Bark Beetle, at-
tacks apple trees in May, making fur-

inches asunder, rakiug the mould even-
ly over them half an inch deep. The

rows into the inner bark and alburnum, plants will rise in two or three weeks,
where it deposits its eggs. The larva; When they are a little advanced in

continue feeding there until late in au-
tumn.

growth, let them be thinned and clcan-
from weeds by hoeing. Thin the

S. destructor, elm-destroying Scoly- | plants to ten inches' <iistance; they
tus, does not confine its ravages to the ! will grow freely, and their roots con-
elm, but often attacks fruit trees, as the tinue increasing in size till September,

plum. — Kollar.

when they will have acquired their full

SCO

534

SCR

size, discoverable by their leaves be- two bodies in contact with each other,
ginning to decay. i the greater is the rapidity with which

The roots may either remain in the the progress towards equilibrium goes
ground, to be drawn as wanted, or on. This is one reason why a tempera-
taken wholly up in autumn when their ture of 32°, with a brisk wind attending
leaves decay, and preserved in sand all it, will injure plants to a far greater
winter. extent than a temperature many de-

To save seed. — Let some of the plants grees lower, with a still atmosphere;
remain where sown, when they will but it is aided by the operation of ano-
shoot up in the spring, and produce ther law of heat, viz., that aeriform bo-
plenty of seed in autumn. — Ahercrombie. dies convey it from a cooling body, as

SCOTCH ASPHODEL. To- a wall or a tree, by an actual change
fieldia alpina, in the situation of their own particles.

SCOTCH LABURNUM. Cytisus al- That portion of the air which is nearest
piniis. to the cooling body is expanded, and

SCOTTIA. Three species. Green- ; becoming specifically lighter, ascends,
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut- and is replaced by a colder portion,
tings. Sandy loam and peat. i This, in its, turn, becomes heated and

SCREEN. All cooling is occasioned dilated, and gives place to another
either by the heat being conducted from colder portion. And thus the process
a body by a colder, which is in contact goes on, until the cooling body is re-
with, it, or by radiating from the body i duced to the same temperature as the
cooled, though circumstancesaccelerate air.

or retard the radiation ; and whatever In a still atmosphere, this goes on
checks the radiation of heat from a body slowly ; the air in contact with the
is a screen, and keeps it warmer. | wall and tree rises very gradually as it

For example, a thermometer, placed imLiibes warmth from them ; but if there
upon a grass plot, exposed to a clear be a brisk wind, a constant current of
sky, fell to 35''; but another thermo- air at the lowest temperature then oc-
ineter, within a few yards of the pre- curring, is brought in constant contact
ceding, but with the radiation of the , with them, and the cooling is rapid, in
rays of heat from the grass checked by accordance with the law of equilibrium
no other covering than a cambric pocket just noticed. A shelter of netting, or
handkerchief, declined no lower than even the sprays of evergreens, are of
42'-'. No difference of result occurs the greatest service in preventing the
whether the radiating surface be paral- sweeping contact of cold air at such
lei or perpendicular to the horizon ; for limes. Snow is a good shelter; it pre-
when the mercury in a thermometer, vents heat radiating from plants; pro-
hung against an openly exposed wall, tects them from the chilling blasts ; and
fell toSS'', another thermometer, against is one of the worst conductors of heat,
the same wall, but beneath a web of I have never known the surface of the
gauze stretched tightly, at a few inches earth, below a covering of snow, colder
distance, indicated a temperature of i than 32'', even when the temperature
43°. I of the air above has been 28°.

These results explain the beneficial ' Strange as it may appear, yet it is
operation of apparently such slight nevertheless true, that a screen is more
screens to our wall-fruit when in bios- beneficial in preserving the tempera-
som. A sheet of canvas or of netting ture of trees, when from three to six
prevents the direct radiation of heat inches from them, than when in imme-
from the wall; the cooling goes on diate contact with their surfaces. When
more slowly, and is not reduced to that a woollen net was suspended four in-
of the exterior air at night, before the ches from the wall on which a peach
return of day begins to re-elevate the j tree was trained, the thermometer fell
external temperature. very slowly, and the lowest degree it

The colder the body surrounding reached was 38°; when the same screen
another hotly, the more rapid the radia- was twelve inches off, it fell to 34°;
tion from the latter; for it is a law of and when drawn tightly over the tree,
heat that it has a constant tendency to it barely kept above 32^, the tempera-
be diffused equally; and the greater ture of the exterior air. When at
the diversity of temperature between . twelve inches from the wall, it permit-

SCR

535

SCU

ted the too free circulation of the air; i den and Norway remaining covered
and when in immediate contact with with snow, whilst England is some 20^,

the polished bark of the peach, pcrlKi|)s
another law of cooling came into ope-
ration. The law is, that polished sur-
faces radiate heat slowest. Thus, if
two glass bottles, equal in size and
thickness of glass, and of the same
shape, be tilled with warm water, and
one of the bottles be covered with an
envelope of fine muslin, this bottle will
give out heat to the surrounding air
with much greater rapidity than the
other bottle; so that, in a given time,
the bottle with the envelope will be
found colder than the one which has
no covering.

Screens, such as the preceding, or
the slighter agents, sprays of ever-

or more, warmer; and an upper cur-
rent of warm air is consequently flow-
ing hence to those countries, whilst a
cold under current is rushing hither to
supply its place. This wind, and its
consequent cold weather, is so regular
in its appearance, that in Ilampsliirc,
and some other parts of England, the
peasantry speak of it as the black thorn
winter, that bush being in blossom dur-
ing a part of its continuance. — Princ.
ofGnrd.

Not only are screens required for
out-door plants, but for those under
glass ; and Mr. Paxtoji is quite right in
saying, that " one of the tilings vvhich
should be constantly borne in mind,

greens, placed before the branches ofj and more especially in the forcing sea-
wall-trees or other plants, as already son, is the most etTectual means of keep-
noticed, operate beneficially in another ing up the requisite temperature in the
way, checking the rapid passage of the , hot-houses with least fuel ; and that, in
air over them: such passage is detri- ' all cases where practicable, the use of
mental in proportion to its rapidity, for | external coverings, if properly used,
the more rapid it is, the greater is the \ will render strong fires in a great niea-
amount of evaporation, and, conse- ! sure unnecessary. Some coverings are
quently, of cold produced. Mr. Daniell used at Chatsworth constantly at night,
says, that " a surface which exhales v.hich makes frcmi ten to titteen degrees
one hundred parts of moisture when ; dilference in the temperatures of the

the air is calm, exhales one hundred
and twenty-five parts when exposed to
a moderate breeze, and one hundred
and fifty parts when the wind is high."
During all high winds, but especially
when blowing from points varying be-
tween the east and the south, for they
are the driest in this country, the gar-

if)uses where they are appiiod, and to
maintain which, without them, would
consume three times the quantity of
fuel now necessary." — Gard. Chron.

P'or wall-trees, now that glass is be-
come so ninch cheaper, the best of all
screens may be employed, viz., glazed
frames, of a length extending from the

dener will always find shelter is bene- i coping of the wall, to the surface of
ficial to his plants, whether in blossom, the soil, about two feet from the stems
or with fruit in its first stages of growth, i of the trees.

for these winds cause an evaporation
much exceeding in amount the supply
of moisture afforded by the roots.

In March, such shelters are much
required, for the winds are then violent
and dry even to a proverb ; but it is
during the days of its successor, April,
that sets in the only periodical wind
known in this island. It comes intcr-
mittingly, and with a variable force
from poi[its ranging from east to north-
east, and is one of the most blight-
ing winds we have. It continues until
about the end of the second week in
May, though often until its close ; and

SCREW I'INR. Pandanus.

SCREW TREE. Hdicteres.

SCROPHULARIA. Figwort. Seven
species. Hardy herbaceous perennials.
S. vcrnalis, a biennial. Seeds. Light
soil, and a moist situation.

SC RU B B Y O A K . Loph ira nfricam .

SCURVY GRASS. Cochlear ia offici-
nalis. " This vegetable grows sfionta-
ncously on the sea shores of England,
and is also found in the interior. It is
used like the Cress, and occasionally
mixed with corn salad.

" Sow in autumn and manage as di-
rected for winter spinach; it is used

it is a good plan to have the tree, dur- during the winter and spring." — R. Reg
ing the whole period, by day as well To obtain Seed. — A few plants must
as by night, protected. This periodical be left ungathered from in the spring,
wind is occasioned, probably, by Swe-' They will run up to flower about May,

scu

536

SEA

and perfect their seed in the course of dung must be added ; but decayed

the two following months.

j leaves are preferable, and sea- weed

SCUTELLARIA. Twenty-seven still more so. Common salt is a very
species. Hardy herbaceous perennials, beneficial application, either applied

»S. humilis is a half-hardy. S. haienen-
sis, a stove herbaceous perennial. .Seeds
and division. Common soil. The shrub-
by species increase by young cuttings.

SCYPHANTHUS grandiflorus and
elegans. Hardy twining annuals. Seeds.
Sandy loam.

SCYTHE. This mowing implement
being confined, in the garden, to cut-
ting the fine short grass of lawns, re-

dry, in the spring, in the proportion of
twenty or thirty bushels per acre, or by
occcasional waterings, with a solution,
containing four ounces in the gallon,
round every stool during the spring.
The situation cannot be too open and
free from trees.

Propagation is both from seed and
slips of the root. The first is the best
mode ; for, although from slips it may

quires to be much sharper than that be obtained with greater certainty, yet
used in cutting the coarser grasses, the plants arising from seed are the
which stand up more firmly to the strongest and longest lived. Sow from
scythe. It is also necessary that the October to the commencement of April;
mowers should not score the grass, that but the best time for inserting it is
is, should not leave the mark of each during January or February. Leave
stroke of the scythe, which has a very the plants where raised ; and, to guard
unsightly appearance; to prevent which, against failure, insert the seed in patch-
have the scythe laid out ratlier wider, es of six or twelve seeds, each six
an inch or two beyond heel and toe, inches apart, and the patches two feet
especially for very short grass; and in ' asunder. If intended for transplanting,
mowing, keep the point rather out, and the seed may be sown in drills twelve
do not draw that part too fast toward, inches asunder ; in either case it must
gathering the grass neatly to the left in ] not be buried more than two inches be-
a range; and having mowed to the end low the surface ; and it is a good prac-
of the swaith, mow it lightly back again, tice, previous to inserting it, to bruise
to trim off all scores, and other irregu- ; the outer coat of the seed, without in-

larities, unavoidably left the first time.
— Abercrombie.

SEA-BUCKTHORN Ilippophce.

SEAFORTHIA elegans. Stove palm.
Seed. Turfy loam and sand.

SEA-HEATH. Frankenia.

SEA-HOLLY. Eryngium.

SEA-KALE.' Crambe Maritima.

Soil and Situation, — A light mode-
rately rich soil, on a dry substratum,
suits it best, though in any dry soil it
will succeed. A bed may be composed
for it of one-half drift sand, one-third
rich loam, and one-third small gravel.

jurmg its vegetating power, as by this
treatment the germination is accele-
rated. The plants will in general
make their appearance in four or five
months, never sooner than six weeks ;
but, on the other hand, the seed will
sometimes remain twelve mouths be-
fore it vegetates.

The best time for increasing it by
slips is in March. Rooted suckers may
be detached from established plants ; or
their roots, which have attained the
thickness of the third finger, be cut into
lengths, each having at least two eyes.

road stuff" or coal-ashes; if the loam is j The cuttings must be inserted in an up-

poor, a little well-rotted dung or de-
cayed leaves being added. The soil
must be deep, so that the roots can
penetrate without being immersed in
water, which invariably causes their
decay. The depth should not be less

right position, two or three inches be-
neath the surface. It is best to plant
two together, to obviate the danger of
failure, at two feet apart, to remain.
Some persons, from a desire to save a
year, recommend yearling plants to be

than two feet and a half; and if not so obtained and inserted in February or
naturally, worked to it by trenching. March ; but as the shoots ought not to
If at all tenacious, this opportunity may be cut for use the first season after
be taken to mix with itdrift or sea-sand, ' planting, the object is not attained, for
so as to reduce it to a friable texture, seedlings may be cut from the second
If wet it must be drained, so that water year.

never shall stand within three feet of The beds should be laid out three
the surface. If poor, well putrefied j feet wide, and a two feet alley between

SEA

537

SEA

every two, in preference to the plan | to cover over each stool sand or ashes
sometimes recommended of planting; to the depth of about a foot ; tlie shoots,

three rows in beds seven feet wide. It'
the months of June and July prove dry,
the beds should be plentifully watered.
The seedlings require no other atten-
tion, during the first summer, than to
be kept free from weeds, and to be thin-
ned to five or si.\ in each patch. When
their leaves have decayed and are clear-
ed away, about November, they must
be earthed over an inch or two with dry
mould from the alleys, and over this
about six inches depth of long litter
spread. In the following spring the
litter is to be raked off, and a little of
the most rotten dug into the alleys.
When the plants have perfectly made
their appearance they must be thinned,
leaving the strongest plant, or, as Mr.
Maher recommends, the three strong-
est, at each patch, those removed being
transplanted at similar distances if re-
quired ; but it must be remarked, that
those transplanted never attain so fine
a growth, or are so long lived. In the
second winter the earthing must be in-
creased to five or six inches deep over
the crowns, and the covering ol litter
performed as before. In the third
spring, the litter being removed, and
some dug into the alleys, as before,
about an inch depth of drift sand or
coal-ashes must be spread regularly
over the surface. The sprouts may
now be bleached and cut for use ; for, if
this is commenced earlier, the stools
are rendered much less productive and
much shorter lived. In November, or
as soon as the leaves are decayed, the
beds being cleared of them, the coating
of sand or ashes removed, and gently
stirred with the asparagus-fork, they
must be covered with a mixture of three
parts earth from the alleys, and one part
of thoroughly decayed leaves, to the

in their passage through it, l)emg ex-
cluded from the light, are effoctually
bleached. Dry clean straw may be
scattered loosely over the plants to
elTect the same purpose. But pots are
by much to be preferred to any of these
coverings. Common flower-pots, of
large dimensions, may be employed,
care being taken to stop the liole at
the bottom with a piece of tile and clay,
so as to exclude every ray of light ; but
those suggested by Air. Maher are ge-

Fig. 152.

nerally adopted. They are of earthen-
ware, twelve or eighteen inches in
diameter, and twelve high. Mr. Sabine
improved upon them by making the top
moveable, which prevents the trouble
arising from the escape of the spread-
ing shoots, or the entire removal of the
dung at the time of forcing. Frames of
wicker are sometimes employed, being
covered with mats more perfectly to
exclude the liglit. See Rhubarb.

Previously to covering the stools with
the pots, &c.,the manure laid on in the
winter must be removed ; and the ope-
ration should commence at the close of
February, or at least a month before
the shoots usually appear, as the sliel-
ter of the pots assists materially in
bringing them forward. In four or six
weeks after covering the plants should
be examined, and as soon as they ap-

depth of three or four inches. The pear three or four inches high, they
major part of this is to be removed in may be cut; for if none are taken until
the fi>llowing spring, the beds forked, ; they attain a fuller growth, the crop

and the covering of sand renewed, this
routine of cultivation continuing during
the existence of the beds.

The above course is the one also pur-
sued if the plants are raised from ofT-
sets or cuttings, as it is by much the

comes in too much at once. In order
to prolong the season of production,
Mr. Barton recommends plants to be
raised annually, so that every year a
cutting may be had from a yearling
crop, which come in much later, and

best practice not to commence cutting consequently succeed in production the

until they are two years old.

old established roots. The shoots

B/fUif/ifng: may commence the second ' should be cut whilst young and crisp,
spring after sowing. The most simple not exceeding five or six inches in
models that originally adopted, namely, ! height; the section to be made just

SEA

538

SEA

within the ground, but not so as to in- : plants from cold, will cause them to be
jure the crown of the root. Slipping i forwarder than the natural ground ones,
off the stalks is much preferable to cut- though not so forward as those under
ting. The plants may be gathered ; the hot dung ; and by this means it may
from until the flower begins to form, | be had in perfection from Christmas to
when all covering must be removed. I
If, when arrived at the state in which j
brocoli is usually cut, the flower is em- !
ployed as that vegetable, it will be
found an excellent substitute. When

Whitsuntide.

It also may be forced in a hot-bed.
When the heat moderates, a little light
mould being put on, three or four year
old plants, which have been raised with
the cutting ceases, all covering must j as little injury as possible to the roots,
be removed, and the plants be allowed , are to he inserted close together, and

to grow at liberty.

covered with as much earth as is used

To obtain Seed. — A stool, which has for cucumbers. The glasses must be
not been cut from, or even covered at covered close with double matting to
all for blanching, must be allowed to exclude the light, and additional cover-

run in spring. It flowers about June,
and produces abundance of seed on
every stem, which ripens about the |
close of July, or early in August.

Forcing. — To force sea-kale, some ]
established plants, at the end of Oc-

ing afforded during severe weather.
Sea-kale, thus forced, will be fit for
cutting in about three weeks. Instead
of frames and glasses, any construc-
tion of boards and litter that will ex-
clude the light, would undoubtedly

tober or early in November, being, answer as well. A common melon
trimmed as directed above al that sea- frame will contain as many as are capa-
son, and the bed covered with a mixture \ ble of being produced in two drills of
of moderately sifted light earth, and : twenty yards each, and with only one-
sand or coal ashes, two or three inches third the quantity of dung. To keep up

deep, each stool must be covered with
a pot, set down close, to keep out the
steam of the dung ; or, bricks or planks
may be placed to the height of sight or
ten inches on each side of the row to
be forced, and covered with cross spars,
having a space of about an inch between

a regular succession until the natural
ground crop arrives, two three-light
frames will be sufficient for a large
family; the first prepared about the
beginning of November, and the second
about the last week in December.
Another mode is, on each side of a

them. The dung employed must be three-foot bed to dig a trench two feet
well tempered and mixed for three deep, the side of it next the bed being
weeks before it is required, or for four, perpendicular, but the outer side slop-
if mingled with leaves, otherwise the ing, so as to make it eighteen inches
heat is violent, but transient. When \ wide at the bottom, but two feet and a
thus prepared, each pot is covered ten half at the top. These trenches being
inches thick all round, and eight inches; filled with fermenting dung, which of

at the top. The heat must be constant-
ly observed; if it sinks below 50", more
hot dung must be applied ; if above
60", some of the covering should be
removed. Unless the weather is very

course may be renewed if ever found
necessary, and frames put over the
plants, the light is to be completely
excluded by boards, matting, &c.

Unlike the generality of vegetables,

severe, it is seldom necessary to renew the shoots of forced sea-kale are always
the heat by fresh linings; when the : more crisp and delicate than those pro-
thermometer indicates the necessity, a j duced naturally. Those plants will not
part only of the exhausted dung should do for forcing a second time which have
be taken away, and the remainder mixed been forced in frames; consequently a
with that newly applied. In three or small bed should be sown every year
four weeks from being first covered, for this purpose, so that a succession of

the shoots will be fit for cutting, and
they will continue to produce at inter-
vals for two or three months, or until
the natural crops come in. To have a
succession, some should be covered
with mulch, or litter that is little else

plants may be annually had, they not
being used until three years old. Some-
times a plant will send up a flower-
stalk; this must be immediately cut
away, it will then be as productive as
the others. But those plants which are

than straw; this, by sheltering the 1 forced by whelming dung over the pots,

SEA

539

SEN

are not much detrimentcd for the na- ,
tural ground production of the succeed-
year. When, therefore, they have

SEDUM. Sixty-four species. Chiefly
hardy herbaceous perennials; with a
few annuals and biennials. These lat-

done producing, all covering must be ter grow well on rock work, and in-

removed, and the ground dressed.

SKA-LAVENDER. Statice,

SEASIDE GRAPE. Coccoloha.

SEASIDE LAUREL. Xylophylla la-
tifoUa.

SEATS require to be in unison with
the portion of the pleasure-grounds in
which they are placed. In shady re-
tired spots, they may be made of the
limbs of trees, (see Rustic,) but near the
house, or among the parterres, where

crease by seeds. The green-house spe-
cies increase by partly ripe cuttings;
the rest by cuttings or division. Sandy
loam, or loam and brick rubbish. A
few are evergreen shrubs and creepers,
SEED ROOM. All that has been said
relative to the Fruit lioom, is applica-
ble to this: everything promotive of
decay or germination is to be avoided ;
and if one relative direction more than
another requires to be urged upon the

trimness is the prevailing characteristic, gardener, it is comprised in these words

more art is desirable to be apparent in — keep it as dry as possible : the room

their construction. They may be made may be even hot, so that it is not damp,

of wood, and so constructed as to shut Mr. Forsyth says, that " a dry room,

up, so that the seat is never wet ; and hot room, or something very nearly re-

if painted annually they last for many sembling a slow corn-kiln, is essentially

Fig. 153.

are soon dry even

after heavy rains.

The following (Figs.

153, 15-1) are made
by Messrs. Dean, King William Street,
London.

Fig. 154.

years. Made of iron, necessary in every garden, not only for
they are more light [ seeds, but also for all other articles re-
in appearance, and if quiring drought, or liable to injury from
painted yearly will damp, such as the nets and bunting for
notiron-mould dress- wall-trees and the like; garden-mats;
es which rest upon glazed lights in wet weather, or when
them. Being made washed previous to painting ; and last,
of open work, the though not the least necessary, the
wet does not rest proper drying of pot-herbs, a process
upon them, and they seldom, if ever properly done."" — Gard.
Chron.

In such a room should be a nest of
very shallow drawers or trays, divided
into compartments, each holding a tin
box three inches in diameter, and on
the lid of each a label, inscribed with
the name of the seed. Such an ar-
rangement not only saves the seed, but
saves the gardener's time, especially if
the seeds are arranged alphabetically
in the drawers.

SELAGO. Eighteen species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam, peat and sand.
SELFHEAL. Prunella.
SEMPERVIVUM. House-leek.
Thirty species. Green-house evergreen
shrubs, annuals, and biennials ; and
hardy and half-hardy herbaceous peren-
nials. The green-house evergreens in-
crease by partly ripened cuttings, and
require a mixture of sandy loam and
brick rubbish. The hardy kinds increase
by offsets, and grow on rocks or walls.
The annuals and biennials increase by
seed.

SEN AC I A. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Ripened cuttings.
Light rich soil.

SEA-WEED. Sec Green Manure.

SEB^TiA. Four species. Green-
house annuals. Seeds. Peat and loam
or common soil.

SECAMONE. Three species,
evergreen twiners. Cuttings,
loam.

SECURIDACA. Two species
evergreen twiners. Cuttings,
peat, and sand.

SECURIGERA coronilla. Hardy an
nual. Seeds. Common soil.

Stove
Sandy

Stove
Loam,

SEN

540

SEP

SENECILLIS. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division. Light
rich soil. [

SENECIO. Fifty-eight species. Har-
dy lierbaceous perennials and annuals,

ander, sow. — Corn Salad, sow. —
Cress (American), sow, b. ; (Water),
plant. — Dill, sow. — Earihing-tip, at-
tend to. — Endive, plant; attend to;
blanch, &c. — Fennel, plant. — Finochio,

and green-hoiiseeverg-reen shrubs. The earth up. — Herbary requires dressing

latter increase by cuttings, and require
a light rich soil. The hardy kinds in-
crease by division, the annuals and
biennials by seed. Common soil suits
both the last-named species.

SENSITIVE FERN. Onoclea Sensi-
hilis.

SENSITIVE PLANT. Mimosa.

b. — Hoeing, attend to. — Hyssop, plant.
— Jerusalem Artichokes, take up as
wanted, e. — Kidney Beans, earth up
advancing, b. — Leeks, plant, b; attend
to advancing. — Lettuces, sow for autumn
and spring planting. — Mint, plant. —
Mushroom- Beds, make; Spawn, collect.
Nasturtium-berries, gather as they

There are several plants, however, be- ' become fit. (Potato), take up for stor-
sides the mimosa which give evidence ing. — Orach, sow. — Parsley, cut down,
of beins sensitive. The Venus Fly Trap — Peas, hoe, &c. — Pennyroyal, plant.
{Dioncea mvscipula) has jointed leaves, ' — Pot Marjoram, plant. — Radishes,
which are furnished on their edges with sow, b. — Rhubarb, sow. — Sage, plant.
a row of strong prickles. Flies, attract- j — Savory, plant. — Seeds, gather as they
cd by honey which is secreted in glands ' ripen. — Small Salading, sow. — Sorrel,
on their surface, venture to alight upon plant. — Spinach, sow, h. — Tansy, plant,
them. No sooner do their legs touch, — Tarragon, plant. — Thyme, plant. —
these parts, than the sides of the leaves Turnips, sow, b. ; hoe advancing,
spring up, and locking their rows of

prickles together, squeeze the insects orchard.

to death. The well-known sensitive '■ Composts, prepare. — Dress borders
plant {Mimosa sensitiva), shrinks from ■ by forking, so soon as fruit is gather-
the slightest touch. Oxalis sensitiva ed. — Gathering of Apples and Pears to
and Smithia sensitiva are similarly ; store commence, e. — Grapes, bag, to
irritable, as are the filaments of the protect from wasps, &c. — Layers and
stamens of the berberry. One of this cuttings may still be inserted. — Leaves,
sensitive tribe, Hedysarum gyrans, has be careful not to injure or remove from

a spontaneous motion ; its leaves are
frequently moving in various directions,
without order or co-operation. When
an insect inserts its proboscis between
the converging anthers of a dog's bane
(Apocynum androssamifolium), they
close with a power usually sufficient to
detain the intruder until death.

SEPT AS. Two species. Green^
house herbaceous perennials. Division.
Peat, loam and sand.

SEPTEMBER is a month of decay,
yet much has to be done to the living.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Angelica, sow
finish gathering. — Artichokes, break
down. — Balm, plant. — Beans, earth up,
&c., e. — Borage, sow ; thin advancing
crops. — Burnet, plant. — Cabbages, sow,
for autumn and spring plants; earth
up advancing; (Red), are ready for
pickling. — Cardoons, earth up. — Car-
rots, advancing, thin. — Flowers, sow
for plants to preserve under glass dur-
ing winter. — Celery, earth up. — Chervil,
eow. — Coleworts, plant out. — Cori-

Wall Trees. — Nets, spread over fruit
trees, to protect from birds. — Planta-
tions, intended, prepare ground for, by
trenching, &c. — Planting may be com-
menced, e., in some kinds of Apricots,
Peaches, &c. — Strawberries, plant in
moist weather ; clean old beds ; pot for
forcing. — Stones of fruit save, to sow
for stocks. — Vines, remove straggling
useless shoots. — Wall-trees, generally,
look over and train as required. —
Wasps, entrap in bottles, &c.

FLOWER GARDEN.

Aconite (Winter),

plant, e. — Ane-
Aromatic pot-herhs,' mones, plant best, e.; sow, b. — An-
nuals (Hardy), sow, b. — Auriculas not
shifted in August, now remove ; water
and shade ; prepare awning to protect,
in autumn and winter; sow, b. — Bulb-
ous roots, plant for early blooming, e.;
sow, b. — Carnation layers remove, b. —
Chrysanthemums, plant cuttings, &c.,
b. — Dress borders assiduously. — Edg-
ings, trim; plant. — Evergreens, plant,
make layers. — Fibrous-rooted peren-
nials, propagate by slips, parting roots.

S KR

541

SET

&c. — Forfc over vacant compartments. — ennials, annuals, and biennials. The

Gi'ass, mow and roll; sow, b. — Gravel,

weed and roll. — Guernsey Lilies, poi. —

Heartsease, plant cuttings ; trim old. —

Hedges, clip, e. — Mignonette, sow in Green-house ever<jreen shrubs

pots to shelter in frames. — P(^;>//!g-s of, cuttings, taken off at a joint.

Pinks, &c., plant out for blooming. —

Polyanthuses, plant. — Ranunculuses,

plant best, e.; sow, b. — Seedlings, plant green shrub

out. — .SVerfs, gather as ripe. — Transplant j and sand.

perenni:i!s, e. — Tuberous rooted plants

former, seeds or division ; the latter,

seeds only. Common soil suits them all.

SERRURIA. Thirty-four species.

Ripe

Light

turfy loam, with a little sand.

SERSALISIA sericea. Stove ever-
Cuttings. Loam, peat,

SERVICE. Pyrus Sorbus. There
transplant. — Turf, lay. — fFu/fr annuals are three varieties. P. S. maliforrnis,
and other plants every day in dry
weatlier.

HOT-HOrSE.

Air, admit freely every day. — Bark-
beds, renew. — Bulbs, plant, b. — Com-
posts, prepare. — Dress the plants regu-
larly.— Earth, give where required. —
Leaves, wash ; remove decayed, &c. —
Pines, shift, if neglected beforej b.;
attend to bottom heat; water every

apple-shaped ; P. S. pyriformis, pear-
shaped ; P. S. bacciformis, berry-
shaped.

Propagation. — By Grafting on the
apple, medlar, and hawthorn.

By Cuttings. See Apple.

By Seed. — The berries ripen abund-
antly in autumn, which is the proper
time for sowing them when perfectly
ripe. Sow them as soon after they are

third dny.-Propagate b^ offsets, seeds, "f^^Z"^ J"^ possible, selecting a spot

■ ^ • • ot lightish ground, and dividing it into

four-feet-wide beds, in which sow the

slips, and suckers. — Shifting neglected
before, complete, b. — Succulents, re- '
place under glass. — Watering gene-
rally is required two or three times
weekly. I

GREEN-HOUSE.

Air, give very freely to plants re-

berries in drills an inch deep. Some of
them will rise the following spring;
they, however, frequently remain till
the second spring before they come up;
observing in either case, that in the
spring following, when the seedlings
turned into house. — Camellias, bud. — are a year old, they should be planted

Earth, give fresh. — Geraniums and
Myrtles planted in borders, return into
pots, b. ; cuttings, plant, b. — Glass,
Flues, ^-c, repair, before the plants are

out in nursery rows, to remain till they
acquire a proper size for final trans-
plantation at thirty feet apart.

By Layers. — Having some of the

moved in. — Oranges and Lemons, re- trees while young cut down near the

move into house, e.; thin fruit. — Prune
and dress as the plants are removed. —
Roses, pot for forcing. — Seedlings and
other young plants, if well rooted,

jround, they will throw out lower
shoots, which being layered in the
common way in autumn and spring,
will readily emit roots, and be lit to

transplant, b. — Succulents, remove into transplant in nursery rows in one year.

house, b.; shift into larger pots. —
Suckers, layers, cuttings, &c., may be
planted. — Tender plants, generally

So/7. — Clayey loam well drained suits
it best.

Culture. — They are best trained as

remove into house, e. — iVater is not dwarf standards or espaliers. See

required so freely

SER.\PIAS. Three species. Stove
orchids. Division. Light sandy soil.

S E R I N G I A platyphylla. Green-
house evergreen shrub.
Sand, loam, and peat.

SVAWiSkfatida. Green-house ever- mer by seeds
green shrub. Cuttings. Loam, peat, them all.
and sand

Medlar.

Gather the fruit in autumn, and treat
it like that of the medlar.

SESBANIA. Twelve species. Stove

Cuttings. — I annuals, biennials, or evergreen shrubs.

The latter increase by cuttings; the for-

Loam and peat suits

SESUVIUM. Four species. Stove
SERPICULA repens. Greenhouse \ annuals and herbaceous perennials,
herbaceous creeper. Division. Com- i Partly dried cuttings. Sandy loam and

mon soil.

SERRATULA. Saw-wort. Twenty-

peat.

SETHLA. indica.

Stove evergreea

nine species. Hardy herbaceous per- tree. Cuttings. Turfy loam and peat.

SET

542

S H A

SETS are the tubers, or portions of I " The length of these rolls at Sion
tubers, employed for propngating tube- I House is between fifty and sixty feet,
rous-rooted plants. It may be accepted ; but we have no doubt they might be
as a rule universally applicable to them, ] made longer, since this depends on the
that a moderately-sized whole tuber is ] diameter of the pole or rod, a, and the
always to be preferred to a cutting of a \ toughness of the timber employed, or
tuber. The latter are invariably morel its power to resist torsion. On one end
subject to failure, but if employed, it is ' of this rod, and not on both, as is usual,
a good plan to roll them in gypsum i a ratchet wheel, 6, is fixed, with a plate
powder. This checks the escape of! against it, c, so as to form a pulley

their sap, and is friendly to vegetation
SEYMERIA. Two species. Hardy

annuals. Seeds. Peaty soil.

SHADING deserves more attention

tlian it usually obtains, for there is not
plant when in blossom that is not pro-

groove between, d, to which a cord is
fastened, and about three inches further
on the rod is fixed a third iron wheel,
about six inches in diameter, and half
an inch thick, e. This last wheel runs
an iron groove, /, which extends

longed in beauty and vigour by being along the end rafter or end wall of the

shaded from the midday sun. Nor
should shading be attended to merely

roof to be covered.

" The canvas or netting being sewed

with regard to blooming plants; for I together of a sufficient size to cover the
they are benefited by it during all roof, one side of it is nailed to a slip of
periods of their growth. Every plant ! wood placed against the back wall, that
transpires at a rate great in proportion ! is, along the upper ends of the sashes;
to the elevation of the temperature : the other side is nailed to the rod, a.

the greater the transpiration the more
abundant is the absorption of moisture;
and the moment the roots fail in afford-
ing a supply equivalent to the transpi-
ration, the leaves flag, or become ex-
hausted of moisture, and if this be
repeated often, decay altogether.

When the canvas is rolled up, it is held
in its place under a coping, g, by a
ratchet, h, and when it is let down, the
cord, i, of the roll is loosened with one
hand, and the ratchet cord, k, pulled
with the other, when the canvas un-
rolls with its own weight. The process

Shades, properly managed, prevent of pulling it up again needs not be de
this injurious exhaustion. Those used j scribed. The most valuable part of
at Sion House deserve particular atten- ' the plan is, that the roll of canvas,
tion, not only because they are appli- I throughout its whole length, winds up
cable to hot-houses, pits, and hot-beds j and lets down without a single wrinkle,
of every description, but because they ' notwithstanding the pulley-wheel is
may be rendered available in the cover- only on one side. This is owing to
ing of fruit walls, to exclude the frost ! the weight of the rod, and its equal
from the blossom, and the birds or flies ' diameter throughout. By this plan a
from ripe fruit; and also in the cover- | house 100 or 150 feet long, might be
ing of flower beds, hay ricks, harvested ' covered with two rolls, the two pulleys
corn, temporary structures for public I working at the two ends; but if it were

assemblages, &c
Fig

thought necessary, the two rods might
be joined in the middle, and by a little
contrivance, the pulley and groove
placed there, so as to work both of the
rolls at once from the inside of the
house, from the back shed, or from the
front." — Gard. Mag.

SHALLOT. See Eschalot.

SHANKING is the technical term
for a gangrene which attacks the foot-
stalks of grapes and the stems of cab-
bages which have vegetated through
the winter. The shanking of the grape
appears to be occasioned by the tem-
perature of the soil being too much
below that in which the branches are
vegetating ; and, consequently, the sup-

S 11 A

543

S H R
CLUB. Verbascum

ply of sap to the grapes is too mucli SHEPHERD'S

diininislied, and tlie parts which thus Thnpsus.

fail of support immediately begin to SIIIFTINC. See Potting and One-
decay; this is an effect always the con- shift System.

sequence of a diminished supply of sap, SHREDS for fastening trees to walls

apparent either in the leaves, flower, are best made of the list or selvage torn

or fruit. The disease, like every other from black or blue cloth, and maybe

putrefaction, does not advance rapidly obtained of any tailor. The smallest

unless there be much moisture in the possible number of shreds, and the nar-

atmosphere. Shanking never appears rowest consistent with strength should

in the grape if the roots of the vine are be employed ; for wherever the shred

within the house. Shanking in the envelops the branch, the wood beneath

cabbage arises from a very different is never so well ripened as those parts

cause, viz., the freezing of the stalk of exposed to the light and air, which are

thecabbage just where it comes in con- so essential to enable the bark to as-

tact with the soil. The best preventive similate and separate from the sap those

is dressing the soil with salt, about five secretions which are required for the

bushels per acre, late in the autumn

SHARP CEDAR. Acacia oxycedrus
and Juniperus oxycedrus.

SHEARS are of various kinds, dif-
fering in form according to the purpose
for which they are intended. Hedge-
shears for clipping hedges are the most
common.

Sliding Pruning Shears with a move-
able centre so as to make a drawing
cut when used as when the pruning
knife is employed. See Averruncator

Fig. 156.

next year's growth. Shreds should
always be long enough to permit the
ends to be doubled over, so that the
nail may pass through four thicknesses
of the cloth, otherwise theylook ragged
and are liable to tear away from the
nail. If old shreds are re-used, they
should be previously boiled for a few
minutes to destroy any insect-eggs, or
larvae thev may contain.

SHRIVELLING of the berries of the
grape in stoves arises from the roots of
The drawing shows the ! t'le vine not supplying a sufficiency of
smaller size, used with one sap. This occurs if the roots are in a
cold heavy soil, or are vegetating in an
outside border, the temperature of
which is too low compared with that of
the stove. In the first case, thorough
draining and the incorporation of cal-
careous rubbish ; and in the second

hand. See Scissors. The
large size, which has wood
handles, will, when em-
ployed with both hands,
cut through a bough full
three inches in circum

ference, with the greatest case, protection to the border and stem.

ease.

Verge Shears are merely
the hedge shears set near-
ly at a right angle on long
handles tor the conveni-
ence of the gardener in
clipping the sides of box
edging, and the verge of
grass plots.
Turf Shears are set also at an angle,
but in a different direction for cutting
the tops of edgings, and grass growing
in corners unapproachable by the scythe.
SHEEP LAUREL. Kalmiaangusti-
folia.

SHELLS. See Animal Matters.
SHELTER. See Screen.
SHEPHERD! A

will remove the evil.

SHRUBBERY is a garden, or portion
of a garden, devoted to the cultivation
of shrubs. It is not necessary, as Mr.
Glenny observes, " That there sliould
be any flowers or borders to constitute
a shrubbery, but there should be great
taste in forming clumps, and grouping
the various foliages and stylesof growth.
The groundwork in such a garden con-
sists of gravel walks and lawn. If flow-
ers be intermixed, or, which is very
generally adopte<l, there be a space lefl
all round the clumps to grow flowers
in, it becomes a dressed or pleasure
ground, rather than a shrubbery. —
Though any part of a ground in which
shrubs form the principal feature, is
Two species. ; still called a shrubbery. — Gard. and

Hardy deciduous trees. Layers. Peat Prac. F/or

and loam, or common soil. I SHRUBS are trees ofa dvirarf growth,

SHEPHERD'S BEARD. Ar nopog on. \noi exceeding in height twelve or fif-

SHU

544

SLI

teen feet, unless they are climbers, and | dicaulis a perennial. Seeds,
having, if permitted, branches and fo- ' soil.

Common

liage clothing the entire length of their
stems.

SHUTERIA hicolor. Stove ever-
green twiner. Seeds. Rich light loam

SHUTTLECOCK
punicca.

SIBBALDIA. Four species and
some varieties. Hardy herbaceous pe-
rennials, or evergreen trailers. Divi-
sion. Loam, peat and sand.

SIBERL\N CRAB. Pyrus pruni-
folia

SINNIXGIA. Six species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and
loam.

SIPHOCAMPHYLUS. Four
Peripetera j species. Stove and hardy evergreen
i shrubs. Cuttings. Light sandy soil.

SIREX gigas. This fly pierces the
fir, and other growing timber, deposit-
ing its eggs in the alburnum. M. Kol-
lar says that : —

"In the seventh week after the eggs
are laid, the maggot has attained its

SIBERIAN PEA TREE. Cara- full size, and then generally buries it
gana. self six inches deep in the wood, where

SIBTHORPIA europcea. Hardy ^ it is transformed in a cavity into a pupa,
herbaceous creeper. Division. Peaty ' covered with a thin transparent skin,
soil, and a moist situation. It remains in this state a longtime ; and

SIDA. Sixteen species. Hardy an- examples are given of the perfect insect
nuals, biennials, and herbaceous pe- ^ only making its appearance when the
rennials; and stove evergreen shrubs, wood has been cut up for useful pur-
Seeds. Rich soil. The shrubby kinds ^ pos

are also increased by cuttings

SIDERITIS. Eighteen species.
Hardy annuals and herbaceous peren-
nials, and hardy, half-hardy and green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings,
seeds, and division. Dry sand or chalk.

SIDERODENDRON triflorum.
Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings, Loam,
peat, and sand.

SIDESADDLE FLOWER. Sarra-
cenia.

SIEGESBECKIA. Six species.
Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

SIEVE, fiee Measures.

SIEVERSIA. Seven species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Seeds or divi-
sion. Light soil.

SILENE. Catch Fly. One hundred
and fifty-one species. Chiefly hardy
annuals, biennials, and herbaceous pe-

PINE.

S-"

SIR JOSEPH BANKS'

Araucaria imbricata.

SISYMBRIUM millffoUum. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light
soil.

SISYRINCHIUM. Twenty-seven
species. Hardy, half-hardy, green-
house and stove herbnceous perennials.
Seed, or offsets. Light soil.

SIUM. Two species. Hardy herb-
aceous perennials. Division or seeds.
Moist soil.

SKIP-JACK. See Elater.

SKIRRET. Siwn Sisarjim.

Propagation. — By Seed. — Sow at the
end of March, or early in April, in
drills one inch deep, and twelve inches
apart. The seedlings will be up in
five weeks. Weed and thin to twelve
inches apart. In autumn, they will be

rennials. Seeds, Light rich soil. The ; fit for use like parsnops

shrubby kinds increase by young cut-
tings also. A few are green-house bi-
ennials.

SILK COTTON TREE, Bombax.

SILK TREE. Acacia Jul ibriss in.

By Offsets. — Old roots throw ofT these
in the spring, when they may be slip-
ped off, and planted in rows a foot
apart each way.

Soil. — A light loam is best, trenched,

SELPHIUM. Three species. Hardy with a little manure dug in with the
herbaceous perennials. Division. Com- bottom spit,
mon soil. To save Seed, let a few of the old

SILVER TREE. Leucadendron se- roots run up in spring; they will flower
riceum. in July, and ripen their seed in the au-

SIMABA. Two species. Stove tumn.
evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Turfy SKULL-CAP. Scutellaria.
loam and peat. SLIPPER PLANT. Pcdilanthes.

SINAPIS. Mustard. Six species. | SLIPPER WORT. See Calceolaria.
Chifly hardy annuals. S. frutescens is | SLIPS are employed for increasing
a green-house evergreen shrub. S. me- the number of an established variety or

S LO

545

SNA

species. In the woody kinds, the youna; : green trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam and
shoots are slipped off from the sides of pent.

the branches, &c., with tlie thuinh and
finger, instead of cutting them off' with

.«;L0E tree. Prunus spinosa.
SLUGS are of many species, and the

a knife, but is more commonly practised smaller are much more injurious to the
to the lower ligneous plants, such as gardener than those of a larger size,
sage, southernwood, rosemary, rue, and , because they are much less discernible,
lavender. The best season of the year ' and their ravages being more gradual,
for effecting the work is generally in ; are not at once detected. They are
spring and beginning of summer, though I effectually destroyed by either salt or
many sorts will grow if planted at al- { lime ; and to secure its contact with

most any time of the year.

their bodies, it is best first to water

Select the young shoots, chiefly of the soil where they harbour with lime
but one year's growth, and in many ' water, in the evening, wlien they are
sorts the shoots of the year will grow coming out to feed, sprinkling the sur-
the most readily, even if ]ilanted the face also with dry lime ; and at the end

summer they are produced, especially
the hard wooded kinds ; but in the more
soft wooded plants, the slips will also
often readily grow when a year or two
old, being careful always to choose the
most robust shoots, situated on the out-

of a week, applying a surface dressing
of salt, at the rate of five bushels per
acre. If cabbage leaves are spread
upon the surface of land infested by
slugs, they will resort to their under
sides, and thus they may be trapped ;

ward part of the plants, Trom three to but lime and salt are most efficacious,
six, or eight, or ten inches long, slip- Lime-water may be poured over wall-
ping them off close to the branches, trees infested with them, and they may
Clear off the lower leaves, then plant i be syringed with it as well as with
them two parts in the ground, giving ' water in which gas liquor has been
occasional shade and water, if in sum- j mixed, about half a pint to a gallon.
mer, till properly rooted ; and towards If lime be sprinkled along the top, and
autumn transpjant them where they are at the base of the wall, renewing it

to remam.

Many shrubby plants growing into
]nrge branches from the root, such as
roses, spicas, and raspberries, may be
slipped quite to the bottom, into sepa-
rate plants, each furnished with roots,
and may be planted either in nursery
rows, or at once where they are to re-
main.

weekly, the slugs cannot get to the
trees.

S.MALL CARDAMOM. Amomiim
cardnmomum.

S.M.'VLL LUPINE. Lupimis naiius.

S^LVLL MON'ARDA. Fycnanthc-
mum monardella.

SMALL PALM. Sahal Palmetto.

SMALL PEPPERMINT. TInjmm

Herbaceous plants may be slipped i P/pcrp/Za. •
into many separate plants, and it is J SMEATHMANNIA tef/g-a^a. Stove
effected by slipping off the increased evergreen shrub. Half-ripened cuttings.

suckers, or offsets of the root ; some
sorts, by the offsets from the sides of
the heads of the plants ; and some few
sorts by slips of their stocks or branches.
Slipping should generally be per-
formed in the spring, or early part of
autumn, which may be effected cither
by slipping the outside offsets with
roots, as the plants stand in the ground,
or, to perform it more effectually, you
may take the whole plants up, and slip
them into several separate parts, each

Loam, peat, and sand.

SMILACINA. Nine species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division. Light
soil.

SMITHIA. Three species. Stove
trailing annuals. Seeds. Peat, sand,
and loam.

SNAILS. See Slugs.

These marauders are said to be very
fond of bran, and that they are readily
trapped if this be put in heaps under
dower pots, with one side pro[)pcd up

slip being furnished also with roots, to admit them. The common garden
planting them, if small, in nursery rows , snail. Helix hortensis, is thus noticed

a year, to gain strength ; or such as are
strong, may be pla?itod at once in the
borders, &c. — Altercromhi';.

by Mr. Curtis: —

"Snails arc said to be hermaphro-
dites, and, consptjuently, they are all

SLOANE.\. Two species. Stoveever-i capable of laying eggs; and there have
35

SNA

546

SOI

been found eighty in one heap. They
are globular, whitish, shining, and not
larger than swan-shot. If kept in a
damp place, they readily hatch, at
once becoming little, thin, transparent,
and nearly colourless shells. In a short
time, they increase to twice the size,
even when they have had nothing to
feed upon. They are then of a dark.

SNAKE GOURD. Trichosanthes.

SNAKE ROOT. Aristolochia ser-
pent aria.

SNAPDRAGON. Antirrhinum and
Silene antirrhina.

SNAP TREE. Judicia hysopifolia.

SNEEZEWORT. Achillea Ptarmica.

SNOW is one of the gardener's best
shelters, and should never be removed

ochreous colour, with three imperfect ' from his out-door crops. It prevents
rings, composed of brownish dots and ' heat from radiating from tliem; pro-
streaks, and a transverse line of the : tects them from freezing, drying blasts ;
same colour next the pale lip or mar- | and, being a bad conductor of heat,
gin ; and these spots seem to vary as thus prevents its escape from them,
the animal withdraws or extends itself, , I have never known the surface of the
owing to the dark tints shining through i earth, below a covering of snow, colder

the semi-transparent shell.

than 32°, even when the temperature

As the snail grows, it has the faculty of the air above has been 28°. — John-

of enlarging the shell, from its own se
cretions ; and, when full grown, it is as
large as a small plum. It is convo-
luted obliquely, striated of an ochreous
colour, variegated with pitchy spots,
giving it a marbled appearance, and
forming two or three transverse bands ;
the lip is ochreous, the margin slightly
reflexed, the under side is smooth and
white, with a pinkish tint.

" There are various ways of reducing
the numbers of this pest — the simplest
is, by searching amongst the leaves of
wall-fruit in April, when the snails first
leave their winter quarters, to satisfy
their long abstinence, and they con-
tinue feeding until August or Septem-
ber.

" To protect seedling plants, a thick
dusting of lime and soot round the
stem will keep the snails away in dry
weather.

" In August, the eggs may be found

son''s Principles of Gardening

SNOWBALL TREE. Viburnum
Opulus.

SNOWBERRY. Chiococca.

SNOWDROP. Anemone sylvesti'is,
and Galanthus.

SNOWDROP TREE. Halesia.

SNOWFLAKE. Leucojum.

SOAP-BOILERS' ASHES. 'S.Ge Ashes.

SOAPWORT. Saponaria.

SOBOLEWSKIA lithophila. Hardy
annual. Seed. Common soil.

SOIL. However varying in the pro-
portions, yet every soil is composed of
silica, alumina, lime, magnesia, oxide
of iron, salts, and animal and vegetable
remains. The most important conside-
ration is, what proportions those are
which constitute a fertile soil ?

The beau ideal of a fertile soil is one
which contains such a proportion of de-
composing matter and of moisture as to

at the roots of pot-herbs, in the cavities ' keep the crop growing upon it always
of muck heaps, at the rotten foot ofl supplied with food in a state fit tor

paling, &c. These should be diligently
sought for and destroyed; for they
nearly all will hatch.

" Salt and urine are destructive to
snails ; but it is difficult to apply either
to them with much advantage. Lime,
soot, and wood ashes are excellent
checks ; but the first loses its efficacy
as soon as it becomes wet, and even

introsusceptmn, yet not so superabun-
dantly as to render the plants too
luxuriant, if the object in view is the
production of seed ; but for the pro-
duction of those plants whose foliage
is the part in request, as spinach, or of
edible bulbous roots, as onions, which
have a small expanse of leaves, so as
to be almost entirely dependent upon

the dews of the evening will frequently I the soil for nourishment, there can
exhaust its caustic properties. Cabbage scarcely be an excess of decomposed
leaves are not an invariable decoy for i matter presented to their roots.

the old snails: young ones, however,
are very fond of them, especially when
wet and withering." — Card. Chron.

SNAIL FLOWER. Phaseolus cara-
calla.

Spinach, on rich soils, will yield suc-
cessive cuttings, the same as asparagus ;
the latter especially demands abundant
applications of nourishment to its roots,
since, like the onion, it has little foliage

S 0 I

547

SO I

and sliglitly fibrous roots, at the same ensis, gives as being the most fertile

time that, like the spinach, it has to for the grasses : —

afford repeated cuttings; and thus, re- " Fine sand, 115; aluminous stones,

quiring a repeated development of 70 ; carbonate of lime, 23; decompos-
ing animal and vegetable matter, 34 ;
silica, 100; alumina, 2S ; oxide of
iron, 13; sulphate of lime, 2; soluble
vegetable and saline matter, 7 ; loss, 8 ;
total 400."

I have already stated what forms a
fertile soil; it maybe added, that, to

parts, it needs abundant food in its im-
mediate neighbourhood. A soil with a
just proportion of decomposing matter
will be capable of absorbing moisture,
during the droughts of summer, from
the atmosphere; for the most fertile
soils are always the most absorbent.
Yet it must not be too retentive of constitute it eminently sucli, its earthy

moisture, which is the case in such
soils as contain too much alumina ;
neither must it too easily part with
moisture, a fault which is a character-
istic of those soils which contain an
e.tcess of silica.

A subsoil of gravel, mixed with clay.

particles must be in a minute state of
division; the more so the more fertile it
will be.

In the above analysis 185 parts only
were separable by sifting through a fine
sieve; 215 parts were impalpable;
whereas poorer soils will ofien have

is the best, if not abounding in oxide ! 300 parts coarse matter to every 100 of

of iron ; for clay alone retains the moist-
ure, on the arable surface, in too great ,
an excess; and sand or chalk, on the
contrary, carries it away too rapidly.
It is, however, evident, that to insure

finely pulverized constituents.

In affording warmth to plants the
earth is of considerable importance,
and the power of accumulating and re-
taining heat varies as much in soils as

these desiderata in any soil, at all sea- the proportions of their constituents.

sons, IS impossible; and it is manifest
that a soil that would do so in one cli-
mate would fail in another, if the mean
annual temperature of them should dif-
fer, as well as the amount in inches o

Sir Hum[)hrey Davy found that a rich
black mould, containing one-fourth of
vegetable matter, had its temperature
increased in an hour, from (Jo^ to SS^
by exposure to the sunshine, whilst ^

rain which fall during the same period- , clialk soil was heated only to 09' undef

Thus, in the western parts of England,
more than twice as much rain occurs
as in the most eastern counties, or in
the proportion of forty-two to nineteen ;
a soil in the cast of England, for any
given crop, therefore, may be richer
and more tenacious than the soil re-
quired for it on the western coast.
Alumina, or clay, imparts tenacity to

similar circumstances. Hut the firstj
when removed into the shade, cooled
in half an hour 15*^ ; whereas the latter
lost only 4°. This explains why the
crops on light-colored tenacious soils
are in general so much more backward
in spring, but are retained longer in
verdure, during autumn, than those on
black lisrht soils. The latter attain a

a soil when applied; silica, or sand, genial warmth the more readily, but

diminishes that power ; whilst chal k ami part from it with c<iual speed. Different

lime have an intermediate effect. They plants affect different soils. Every

render heavy soils more friable, light gardener must have observed that there

soils more retentive. These simple is scarcely a kitchen garden but has

facts are important; tw-o neighbouring some particular crop which it sustains

gardens, by an interchange of soils, In luxuriance, tar superior to any other

being often rendered fertile, which be- garden in its neighborhood, or to any

fore were in the extremes of tenacity other crop that can be grown on it. A

and porosity.

garden I once cultivated would not

From these statements it is evident , produce, without the preparation of an
that no universal standard or recipe can artificial soil, the coniinon garden-cress
be given for the formation of a fertile {Lepidium sativum), whilst the raspberry
soil; but a soil, the constituents of was remarkably luxuriant; and we
which approach in their proportions to ' have seen that the composition of a soil
those of the following, cannot be un- has a main influence in these peculiari-
productive in any climate. It is a rich ties. It is certain that a soil is often
alluvial soil, which Mr. Sinclair, in his considered unproductive, and the un-
iuvaluablc Ilortus Gramineus Wobuni- productiveness attributed to some de-

SOI

548

SOL

plying the manure deep below the sur-
face. In another instance, some pars-
neps being of necessity sown in a poor
soil, having turned in some manure by
trenching fall twelve inches deep,

ficiency in its staple, when, in truth, big and others have most illogically
the defect arises from erroneous man- | concluded, from the smallness of the
agenient. soluble extract contained in a soil, that

I have before stated an instance of it is of small importance, forgetting
tap-rooted plants being produced, of, that as fast as it is taken by the roots of
superior size and form, by means of ap- , the crop, it is generated again by the

decomposition of the animal and vege-
table remains. This is one reason why
fallowing is beneficial ; easily decom-
posing matters have been exhausted by
successive crops ; and by a year's rest,
would not allow any to be applied to and exposure to the putrefactive agency
the surface, but, at the time of thinning of the air, the more stubborn and more
I set half the bed out at an average of slowly decomposing exuvin have time
twelve inches' distance between each to resolve into and accumulate soluble
plant, the other half at nine inches, compounds in the soil. — Princ.of Gard.
When taken up for storing, the whole ] SOJA hispida. Hardy annual. Seed,
were alike perfectly fusiform ; but those Common soil.

SOLANDRA. Five species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Turfy
loam and peat. S. grandijlora. Mr.
J. Brown, gardener at Whittlebury
Lodge, near Towcester, says that —

" After it attains to the height of from
three to five feet, it must not be shifted,
but allowed to remain in as small a pot
as it will grow in until the roots be-
come matted round the inside. Early
in autumn keep it in a cool situation,
and allow it to become perfectly dry,
when the leaves will drop off. About

grown at twelve inches apart were the
finest, as four and a half is to three. If
manure had been applied to the surface,
the fibrous roots, I calculated, would
be multiplied at the expense of the
caudex, to its much greater detriment
than by making the few usually pro-
duced by this root extend in length,
thus enlarging the circuit of their pas-
turage.

Again, a more silicious, darker co-
lored soil should be employed for the
growth of an early crop, of any given
plant, than is required by the main crop ; the beginning of November, introduce

because such soil will more readily
get rid of the superfluous moisture, and
earlier acquire a genial warmth, two
great desiderata for vegetation in spring.
On the contrary, in autumn, for a late
crop of peas, for instance, the soil
should be more aluminous, that such
moisture may be retained.

The quantity of soluble matter ob-
tainable Irom a soil, at any one time,
is very small, seldom exceeding a one-
thousandth part of its weight; and even
pure vegetable mould, the debris of

it into heat, and force gently, supply-
ing it plentifully with water wlien it
begins to grow. Being thus excited for
a short time, the plant grows freely,
and produces blossom-buds on the
young wood, and at the end of each
shoot; these in January and February
expand. As soon as it has done flow-
ering, which is generally in March, the
shoots are to be cut back, and the
plant, being shifted, put into heat and
encouraged to grow, stopping the young
shoots fre(juently, to induce it to throw

entirely putrefied plants, was found by out laterals, and to keep it dwarfed.
Saussuro to yield only one-eleventh of By this treatment it very often forms
soluble matter. This mould was too spurs similar to a pear or apple-tree, at
rich for horticultural purposes, peas ' the ends of which, after allowing the
and beans grown in it being too luxuri- 1 roots to become matted in the pot,giv-
ant ; and they were more productive in ing it a rest, and keeping it dry and cool
a soil containing only one-twentieth of from August till November, blossoms
organic constituents dissolvable by wa- , are produced in abundance, upon its
ter. Small in amount, however, as is being put again into heat." — Gard.
the soluble constituents of the most Chron.

fertile soils, they are necessary for the SOLANUM. One hundred and thirty-
vigorous vegetation of plants; tor when six species, and some varieties. Stove
a soil is deprived of those constituents and green-house evergreen shrubs and
by frequent washings with boiling water, annuals; hardy annuals, deciduous
it is much less fertile than before. Lie- climbers, herbaceous, and a few tuber-

SOL

549

SOR

ous-rooted perennials. To this latter
belongs S. tuberosum, the potato. The
annuals are increased by seeds; the
other species by seeds, cuttings, or
tubers. Light rich soil suits them all.

Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe
cuttings taken off at a joint. Turfy
loam and sand.

SOLDANELLA.

SORRELS. These are Oxalis Aceto-

sella. Wood Sorrel ; Rumex acetosa,

Seven species. Garden Sorrel ; R. scutatus, French or

Hardy or half-hardy herbaceous peren- ' Roman Sorrel

nials. Seeds or division. Peat and
loam. j

SOLDEVILLA setosa. Hardy herba- !
ceous perennial. Seed. Common soil.

SOLDIER-WOOD. Inga purpurea. {

SOLIDAGO. Golden Rod. Sixty-
seven species. Hardy herbaceous pe-
rennials, except S. leucanthemifolia,
which is half-hardy, and S. spuria, a
green-house evergreen. Division. Com-
mon soil.

Soil and Situation. — They thrive best
in any garden soil that tends to light-
ness rather than tenacity, and is not
too poor. The situation must be open.

Propagation. — The rumexes are pro-
pagated by seed, and all of them by
parting the roots, both which modes
may be practised from tha middle of
February until the same period in May,
and by the latter also in September
and. October. The finest plants are

SOLLYA. Three species. Green- raised by seed, but those from portions

of the roots are soonest in production.

The seed is best sown in drills, six
or eight inches apart, and half an inch
in depth. When two or three inches
high, the seedlings must be thinned to
three or four inches apart, and those
removed, if required, pricked out at
similar distances. In September or Oc-
tober, or in the March and April of the
succeeding year, they may be removed
into their tinal stations, in rows twelve
inches apart, each way, or, if the
French, eighteen inches. The only
attention they require down to this
state of their growth, is to be kept clear
of weeds, and to have water given in
moderate quantities after each removal,
until established.

When divisions of the root are em-

house evergreen climbers. Cuttings.
Loam and peat.

SOLOMON'S SEAL. Convallaria.

SOOT is the volatilized unconsumed
portion of common coal. It is thus
constituted : —

Charcoal .

Salts of ammonia

potash and soda

371
427
24
50
65
31
31

Oxide of iron

Silica

Alumina .

Sulphate of lime

Carbonate of magnesia . 2

It is an excellent manure for peas,
onions, carrots, and probably all garden
crops. An excellent liquid maiiure is
soot mixed with rain water, in the pro-

portion of one tablespoonful of soot

to a quart of water, for plants in pots ; ployed, they must be set at once where

but for asparagus, peas, &c., six quarts
of soot to a hogshead of water. It
must never be applied to plants in a
state of rest. It succeeds admirably
with bulbs. — Gard. Chron.

S O P II 0 R A. Fourteen species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials and deci-

they are to remain, at the final dis-
tances above mentioned ; and the same
attention paid in weeding and watering
them. Established plants must in a
like manner be kept constantly free
from weeds. In summer, as thoy run
up to seed, the stalks must be cut down

duoustrees; stove and green-house ever- as often as is re(]iiired, to encourage

green shrubs and trees. The latter in-
crease by cuttings, the former by divi-
sion. S. chinensis and S. japonica,
hardy deciduous trees; by layers or
seeds. Light loamy soil.

S 0 P H R O N I f I S. Three species.
Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood with
a little moss on the roots.

SORINDEIA madagascariensis.
Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

SOROCEPHALUS. Seven species.!

the production of leaves. In autumn
and spring, the surface of the ground
should be gently stirred, and in the
former season, a little manure, or in
preference, a similar proportion of de-.
cayed leaves, turned in. Some garden-
ers raise fresh seedlings annually, but
a fresh plantation is seldom necessary
oflener than every fourth year ; before
which, however, it must be made, if the
plants dwindle or produce diminutive
leaves.

S OR

550

SPA

To obtain Seed. — Some plants must I evenly, the depth required, the earth

not be gathered from, and allowed to
run up unchecked. They flower in the
course of June, July, and August, per-
fecting their seed in autumn. Wood-
sorrel never produces seed. See Ox-
alis.

SORREL TREE. Andromeda arbor ea.

SOULANGIA. Twelve species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings. Sandy peat.

SOURSOP. A7W7ia muricala.

SOUTHERNWOOD. Artemisia ar-
bor ea.

SOUTH SEA TEA. Ilex vomitoria.

S0WERB7EA juncca. Green-house
herbaceous perennial. Division. Sandy
loam and peat.

SOWING. See Germination. In
addition a few practical directions may
be given. Let all sowing be done in
drills. For small seeds, such as let-
tuce, cabbage, &c., the drills may be
sunk by pressing the handle of the hoe
into the freshly dug soil ; but for larger
seeds, as parsneps, beet, and onions,
the drills must be struck with the hoe

remaining close along the side of the
drill, ready for turning in again over
the seeds ; but where flat or shallow
drills are required for smaller seeds, it
may in many cases, be more eligible to
draw the drill with the hoe flatwise,
holding the edge in a horizontal position.

Bedding in Sowing. — In this method
the ground being dug and formed in
four or five feet wide beds with alleys,
a spade width or more between bed
and bed, and the earth being drawn off
the top of the bed with a rake or spade,
half an inch or an inch deep into the
alleys, the seed is then sown all over
the surfiice of the bed, which being
done, the earth in the alleys is immedi-
ately drawn or cast over the bed, again
covering the seeds the same depth, and'
the surface is raked smooth.

The method of bedding in sowing by
sifting, is sometimes practised for very
small or light seeds of a more delicate
nature, that require a very light cover-
ing of earth when sown, so in order to
bury them as shallow as possible, cover

All sowing should be performed in them in by sifting fine earth over them
dry weather, more particularly all early out of a wire sieve. — Abercrombie.

sowing in winter and spring ; but in hot :
weather, in summer and autumn, it]

SOY. See Soja.

SPADE. This most important of the

may often be eligible to take advantage I gardener's tools, varies in its form and
of sowing immediately after a shower size.

or moderate rain. The Common Digging Spade is of the

The drills being at some distance largest size, being generally from four-
from one another, not only admit the ■ teen to sixteen inches long in the plate,
sun, air, and rain more effectually to and nine or ten broad, narrowing half
the plants, and give them a greater an inch to the bottom

scope, than such as are sown broadcast,
but admit more readily the hoe between
the drills to cut down weeds and loosen
the soil

The Middling Spade is about a foot
long in the plate, and seven or eight
inches broad, and is useful in digging
any narrow compartments and between

The general method of forming drills rows of small plants, also in flower

for the reception of seeds, is with a
common drawing-hoe, sometimes with
a large hoe, and sometimes a middling
or small hoe, according to the size of
the drill required, and size and nature
of the seeds; drawing the drill some-
limes with the corner of the hoe, espe

beds and borders ; and in stirring and
fresh earthing the surface of beds occa-
sionally, between close placed plants
of long standing; planting and trans-
planting many sorts, both in the ground
and in the pots.

The Small Spade. — Size ten or twelve

cially for larger seeds, and sometimes inches long in the plate, and five or six
•with the edge of the hoe flatwise or ; wide. It is convenient in pointing-up
horizontally; but large seeds, such as or slight digging, and fresh earthing
peas, kidney beans, many of the nut | the surface between close rows of
kinds, and other large seeds, both of , small plants, in beds and borders, &c.,

trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants,
require a deep angular drill, <lrawn
Mith the corner of the hoe, turning the
face or edge close to the line, so draw
the drill along with an angular bottom

where neither of the two former spades
can be readily introduced ; likewise in
planting and potting many sorts of small
plants, taking up small roots and for
other light purposes. Proper garden

SPA

551

S PH

spades have the plate wholly of iron, ter produced in the soil by mushrooms,
not above a quarter of an inch thick and by which they are propapated. It
upwards, growing gradually thinner ' is doubtful whether it arises from their
from the middle downward, the tree or seed, or whether it is a mass of under-
handle being generally of ash, about ground runners. See Mushroom.

SPECKLINIA. Five species. Stove
epiphytes. Division. Wood, with a
little moss on the roots.

SPECULARIA. Six species, and a
few varieties. Hardy annuals. Seeds.
SPERMACOCE. Five species. Har-
dy annuals and stove annuals and bien-
nials. Seeds. Light soil.

SPERM AXYRUM strictum. Green-

two feet and a half long and an inch
and a half thick, with a firm open han-
dle at top, formed out of the solid wood,
just big enough to admit of taking ready
hold, one hand at top and the other be-
low, and with an iron rivet through it
to prevent it splitting.

Semicircular or Scooped Spade, has
the plate made semicircular like a gar-
den trowel, and is very useful in taking house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam

up plants with balls of earth to preserve
them more firmly about the roots. —
Abercrombie.

Foster of Stourbridge, and Lyddon
of Birmingham, make very improved
spades, wearing with
throughout.

SPANISH BROOM. Sparcium jun-
ceum.

SPANISH CRESS. Lepidiinn carda-
mines.

SPANISH ELM. Cordia Geraschan-
thus.

SPANISH GARLIC. See Rocam-
bole.

SPANISH NUT. Moraa Sisyrin-
chium.

SPANISH VIPER'S GRASS. Scor-
zonera.

SPARAXIS. Ten species and some
varieties. Green-house and half-hardy
bulbous perennials. Oflsets or seeds.
Sandy loam and peat.

SPARMANNIA africana. Green-
house evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

SPARROW WORT. Erica passe-
rina.

and peat.

SPHACELE. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Light rich soil.

S P H .^ R A L C E A. Eight species,
good edge i Green-house evergreen shrubs and herb-
aceous perennials; a few, hardy annu-
als ; the latter increase by seeds, the
others by cuttings. Rich soil.

SPH.1:R0L0BIUM. Two species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings. Loam and peat.

SPH/EROPHYSA caspica. Hardy
herbaceous perennial. Seeds, common
soil ; it should be watered sometimes
with salted water.

SVUJhlROTEMApropinquum. Stove
evergreen climber. Cuttings. Sandy
peat and loam.

SPH.EROSTIGMA. Three species.
Hardy annuals and biennials. Seeds.
Common soil.

SPHAGNUM is a white spongy moss,
found only in bogs, and used for grow-
ing orchidaceous plants, or covering
the drainage in flower pots.

S P H E N O G Y N E. Ten species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs, and

SPARTIUM. Broom. Two species, j green-house and hardy annuals; the
and two varieties. Hardy deciduous latter increase by seeds, the former by

shrub
soil.

SPATALANTHUS speciosus. Har-
dy bulbous perennial. Otfsets. Sandy
loam and peat.

SPATALLA. Nine species. Green

Seeds or cuttings. Common j cuttings. Loam and peat

1 SPHINX. S. ti pill if or mis. Currant
Sphinx is thus mentioned by Mr. Cur-
tis:

'< Towards the end of May, and in
June, we see the beautiful little cur-
house evergreen shrubs. Seeds, ripe • rant sphinx sporting in the morning and

cuttings. Light sandy loam.

noonday sun, about the flowers of the

SPATHODEA. Eight species. Persian' Lilac, the Common Syrmga,
Stove evergreen trees, shrubs, and and other plants; at this time the fe-
climbers. Cuttings. Loam and peat. ' males also resort to the currant trees to

SPATHOGLOTTIS fortunatus. deposit their eggs in the crevices of the
Green-house tuber. Division. Sandy twigs, and as soon as the larva emerges
loam. I from its tiny shell, it penetrates to the

SPAWN is the white filamentous mat- centre to feed upon the pith, proceed-

SPI

552

SPO

ing downward until it has arrived at
its full growth; it then changes to a
pupa serrated with transverse short
spines, which enable it to ascend to an
opening previously prepared by tiie
larva, from which the sphinx escapes,
leaving the pupa case half protruding
from the branch.

cold weather give a light covering of
straw, cedar brush, or anything that
will lay lightly, and partially protect
it; otherwise the finest and most suc-
culent leaves become discoloured by
the frost." — Rural Reg.

To obtain Seed. — A sowing of each
variety may be made in February or

" The caterpillar is fleshy and whitish, March, according to the openness of

with an obscure dorsal line: the head
and four horny spots upon the first
thoracic segment are bright brown; it
has six pectoral, eight abdominal, and
two anal feet, which are of a similar
colour, and a few fine longish hairs are
scattered over its body. The moth is
of a brilliant chalybeon black, inclining
to purple, which is beautifully contrast-
ed with the golden wings encircling its
body when glittering in the sunshine.
The black currants appear to be the
most subject to these attacks of the
currant sphinx caterpillar, and the first
indication of its presence is the wither-
ing of the leaves and branches." —
Gard. Chron.

SPIDER OPHRYS. Ojihrys
aranifern.

SPIDER WORT. Tradescantia.

SPIELMANNIA africana. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light
rich soil.

SPIGELIA anthelmia, a stove an-
nual, and S. marilandica, a hardy herb-
aceous perennial. Seeds and cuttings
Loam and peat.

SPINACH. Spinacea oleracea.

the season, or of the round-leaved va-
riety some plants of a regular crop may
be allowed to run up in April or May ;
and of the triangular-leaved, some
plants of the winter standing crops may
be suffered to remain. Keep them clear
of weeds. Spinach is dioecious, and
many ignorant persons, perceiving
some of the plants to have no appear-
ance of bearing seed, advise these to
be pulled up, but these are the male-
bearing plants, without which the
others would be unfruitful. If, how-
ever, they are very numerous, some of
them may be removed with benefit to
those that remain, care being taken that
some are left in every part of the bed.
When the seed is set the male plants
may be entirely removed, which allows
more room for the fruitful. When the
seed is ripe, which is known by its be-
ginning to shed, in July or August, the
plants ought to be pulled up and laid to
dry thoroughly on a cloth, previously
to its being beaten out and stored.

SPIR^A. Forty-one species and
many varieties. Hardy deciduous
shrubs or herbaceous perennials, a few

" The Spinage or Spinach has been i are tuberous-rooted. Layers or young
long cultivated, and is supposed to have j cuttings, and the herbaceous species by

come originally from Western Asia. Its
use is well known.

" The principal varieties are the round
eeeded Savoy-leaved and Prickly-seed-
ed. The former is best for spring and
summer use, the latter is preferred
for autumn sowing, being considered
hardier.

" It may be sown broad cast or in
drills. When drilled, it is easier kept
clean, and more readily gathered for
use. The drills should be twelve inches
apart, the plants four inches apart in
the rows. If sown thicker, thin out
when young, as wanted ; leaving plants
at proper distances. For spring and
early summer use, sow early in spring,
and occasionally afterward; for the
early autumn supply, sow at close of
summer, and for the main winter crops
about middle of autumn. Before very

division. Peat and loam, or common
soil.

SPIRALEPIS. Four species. Green-
house herbaceous perennials. S. squar-
rosa, an evergreen shrub. Seeds, cut-
tings, and division. Sandy peat and
loam.

SPIRANTHERA odoratissima. Stove
evergreen shrub. Half 'ripened cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

SPIRANTHES. Four species. Stove
green-house and half-hardy orchids. Di-
vision. Peat and loam.

SPIR0NEMA/?-ag-;-(7ns. Stove herb-
aceous perennial. Division. Light rich
loam.

SPONGE TREE. Acacia farnesiana.

SPOT, a disease occurring on the
leaves of the pelargonium, is a dry gan-
grene, occasioned by an irregularity in
the supply of moisture and vicissitudes

S P R

553

S T A

of temperature, but especially if one of STACK HO USIA UnariafoUa.
the extremes is much below the degree Green-house evergreen shrub. S.mono-

of heat tiiDsl favourable to the healthy
growth of that plant. The reason of
this is very obvious. If a pelargonium,
or any other plant, be placed in a highly
stimulating heat, and is abundantly sup-
plied with root moisture, it immediately
increases its surface of leaf to elaborate
and digest tlie largo amount of sap for-

yna, hardy herbaceous perennial. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.
- STADMANMA uiistralis. Green-
house evergreen tree. Ripe cuttings,
with the leaves on. Loam and peat.

STAFF TREE. Celastrus.

STALAGMITIS. Seven species.
Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Turfy

warded from the roots. If this amount ; loam and peat. They require a stron
of sap is subsequently suddenly re-
duced, by lowering the temperature
and adding water to the soil less freely,
the increased surfice of leaf is no longer
required, and it is a law pervading all
the vegetable creation that the moment

heat.

STANDARD. A tree unsupported by
a wall or trellis.

Full Standards are such trees as are
trained with tall straight stems six or
seven teet high, clear of branches, and

any of the parts of a plant are unneces- are then suffered to branch out. All
sary to it, that moment it begins to de- ' trees designed as full standards should
cay. I placed a plant of the Marvel of be trained accordingly in their minor
Peru, or Heliotrope, in a high tempera- state, by trimming all lower laterals
ture and abundant moisture ; these were gradually as the stems advance in height,
then much reduced, and the leaves in j suffering the leader always to remain
a few days were completely decayed | entire, especially in all forest trees; or
round their edges, and in spots upon if it should happen to fork, taking off
their surfices. The extent of leaf was the worst, and leaving the straightest
accommodated to the amount of sap to I shoot to run up, to continue the pro-
be elaborated. — Princ. of Gard.

SPREKELI.\ cybister and its varie- '
ties. Stove bulbous perennials. Offsets.
Sandv loam.

SPRENGELIA incarnata. Green- 1
house evergreen shrul). Cuttings. San-
dy peat. I

SPRUE, a market name for the small-
est sprouts of asparagus.

SPUR, is a lateral branch cut back,

longation of the stem; and having thus
run them up with clean stems six or
seven feet in height, to force out laterals
in that part to form a regular spreading
head of but moderate lieight, for the
greater convenience of gathering the
fruit; but of forest tree standards never
reduce the tops, but permit the leader to
remain ever entire to run up in height,
for the beauty and worth of such Con-
or shortened to a length of about two sists in their lofty stature. All fruit trees

inche

SPURGE LAUREL. Daphne laure-
ola.

SPURLESS VIOLET. Erpdion.

SQUASH. Cucurbita melopepo. See
Gourd.

STAAVIA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Sandy peat.

STACHYS. Thirty species. Hardy

designed for full standards, are raised by
grafting, &c., on the freest strong shoot-
ing stocks, and are trained with straight
clean stems full five to six feet high,
either the stock trained up to that sta-
ture, and so grafted or budded at the
desired height, or the graft or bud is
trained up for a stem to the height afore-
said, then suffered to send forth branch-
es; observing in either method, it is to

and green-house herbaceous perennials be considered whether you intend the

and evergreen shrubs, liardy annuals
and biennials. The latter increase by
seeds. The perennials by division, and
the green-house species by cuttings.
Common soil suits them all.

STACHYTARPHETA. Nine species.
Stove or green-house annuals, biennials,
herbaceous perennials, and evergreen
shrubs. The latter increase by cuttings,
the former by seeds. Light rich mould
suits them all.

tree shall form a spreading open head
or assume a more erect and as[)iring
growth: in the former case, if you top
the leading shoot of the graft or bud, at
six or seven feet from the ground, it will
force out lateral shoots at that height,
and commence a spreading head open
in the middle; sulfering, however, the
whole afterwards to take their own
growth; and, in the second instance,
that by permitting the leading shoot to

S T A

554

STE

remain entire, it will rise in height, and
the whole head will assume a more up-
right and lofty stature. In both methods
the heads will afterwards naturally
branch out abundantly, and furnish
themselves sufficiently with bearing
wood, producing fruit in two or three
years from the grafting or budding; suf-
fering them generally to take their own
growth, without shortening, and very i
little other pruning, except the regu-
lating any great irregularities.

Half Standards are trees trained with

a very unfounded idea, that by steeping
seeds in certain solutions the vigour and
fecundity of the plants to which they
give birth might be promoted. A cer-
tain degree of heat, oxygen gas, and
water, are all the requisites for germi-
nation,— and until this process has com-
menced, no liquid but water at common
temperatures will pass through the in-
teguments of a seed. So soon as germi-
nation has commenced, this power to
exclude foreign fluids ceases, but the
organs starting into activity — the radicle

short stems only three or four feet high, and the plumule — are so delicate, that
then siiifered to branch out at that height I the weakest saline solutions are too
to form heads; having low heads the acrid and offensive for them. So utter-
fruit is more easily gathered. Concave ly incapable are the infant roots of im-
dwarfshave the middle hollow, and the hibing such solutions, that at first they
branches all round in a cup form. Hori- are absolutely dependent, themselves,

zontal dwarfs, having tlie branches ex-
tended all round in a flat or horizontal
position, but the concave dwarf is in
most esteem. — Abercrombie.

STAN HOPE A. Eleven species.
Stove orchids. Division. Peat and pot-
sherds.

ST A'NLF.Y A pinnatifida. Hardy her-
baceous perennial. Division or seeds.
Vegetable mould.

STAPELIA. Thirty-three species.
Green-house and stove evergreen shrubi

for their very existence upon the seed-
leaves, and if these are removed the
plant either makes no further advance,
or altogether perishes. IMany years
since I tried various menstrua to facili-
tate the germination of seeds, but, with
the exception of those which promoted
the decomposition of water, and the
consequent more abundant evolution of
oxygen, I found none of any efficiency.
As to keeping the seeds in saline solu-
tions until they germinated, I never,

partly dried cuttings. Sandy loam and certainly, carried the experiments so far

as that, and I shall be most astonished
if any other effect than injury or death
to the plant is the consequence. Such
has been the result in the Horticultural
Society's gardens, where the seeds of
Centaurea calci- Lupinus Hartwegii were made to ger-
minate in a weak solution of phosphate
of ammonia. — Johnson's Gardeners' Al-
manack.

STENACTIS speciosa. Hardy herb-
aceous perennial. Division or seeds.

brick or lime rubbish.

STAR APPLE. ChrysaphyUum.

STARFISH. Stapelia asterias.

STAR OF BETHLEHEM. Ornitho
galum .

STAR THISTLE
trapa.

STARVVORT. Aster.

STATICE. Sea Lavender. Sixty-
four species. The hardy herbaceous
perennials increase by division or seeds

The green-ho.use and half-hardy species Common soi

by cuttings. Annuals and biennials by
seeds. Sandy loam and peat.

STEXANTHERA pinifolia. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Very

S. Arbor ea, a green-house evergreen sandy peat and loam.

shrub.

STEXIA pallida. Stove epiphyte.

" When practicable, this plant should Division. Wood, with a little moss on
be turned out in the border of a con- the roots.

servatory. It may, however, be grown : STEXOCARPUS saUgnus. Green-
to great perfection in a pot, if the roots house evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings.

Sandy loam and peat.

S T E X 0 C H I L U S. Five species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

STENOMESSOX. Three species.
Stove or green-house bulbous peren-
nials. Offsets. Sandy loam.

STEPHANIA cleomoides. Stove ever-

are allowed plenty of room.

"The soil should consist of equal
parts of turfy loam and peat, or vegeta-
ble mould." — Gard. Chron.

STAUROCANTHUS aphyllus. Hardy
evergreen shrub. Young cuttings or
seeds. Peat and loam.

STEEPING. See Germination. It is

STE

555

S T 0

green shrub. Young cuttings
peat, and sand.

STEPHANOTIS fiorihunda. Stove
climber. Cuttings. Light rich loam.

STEPTOCARPUS rexii. Mr. M'ln-
tyrc, of Hillsborough, gives the follow

Loam, Hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets. Rich
loam.

STEVENLl. Two species. Hardy
innual and biennial. Seeds. Common

STEVIA. Thirty-one species. Hardy,
directions for the culture of this half-hardy, or green-house herbaceous

perennials. Cuttings, divisions and
seeds. Peat and loam.

STEWARTIA virsrinica. Hardv de-

green-house evergreen : —

The seed should be sown in the

month of April, in pans, in a mixture of ;

peat and loam ; then place the pans in ciduous tree. Layers or ripe cuttings.

a hot-bed, frame or_pit,_until the plants Peat and loam.

STIFTL\ insi^nis. Green-house de-
Cuttings. Loam and

are fit for potting off. The seed should

be sown very thin; if not, the greater ciduous shrub.

portion of the plants will rot off for want peat.

of air and room to their stalks, as they S TIGMAPHYLLON. Four species.

grow with their foliage prostrate. As Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings.

soon as the plants are large enough for Peat and sandy loam.

potting off, fill a quantity of pots with a

mixture of leaf-mould, loam, and sand ;
place a plant in each pot, and give a
little water.

"Afterwards remove them into the
frame or pit; when they have got es-
tablished in their pots, they may be
removed to a cold frame or green-
house.

" In June, they may be placed in the
open air, and regularly watered during
the summer.

" Towards the end of October, re-
move them to a frame, to protect them
from frost. In May or June Ibllowing
they may be planted out where recjuired.
As soon as frost is apprehendecl, take
up the plants, with a ball of earth at-
tached to the roots, repot them and
place them in a green-house or frame,
till again required.'' — Gard. Chron.

S T E R C U L I A. Eighteen species.
Stove evergreen trees and shrubs. Ripe
cuttings, with the leaves left on. Light
turfy or peaty loam.

STER1GM.\. Two species. Hardy
biennials. Seeds. Sandy loam.

STERILE is a term applied to unpro-
ductive land and flowers. For some
observations on the first, see Barren.
Sterile (lowers are the male flowers on
monocicious and dioecious plants. They
occur on the cucumber, melon, gourd,
asparagus, &c. They must not be de

STILAGO. Two species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. SandyJoam
and peat.

STITCHWORT. Stellaria.

SiTQ'a ]^i\. pinnata. Green-house
evergreen shrub. Young cuttings.
Light rich soil.

STOCK. Mathiola. This genus was,
until lately, united with the wall-flower,
under the generic name Cheiranthus.
Some of the following are species, but
others only very distinct varieties,

M. acaulis. (Stemless Stock.) Hardy
annual. Red. Flowers in June.

M. alpina. (Alpine Stock.) Hardy
evergreen. Yellow. May.

M. annua. (Ten-week Stock.) Hardy
annual. Various colours. August.
Many varieties.

M. coronopifolia. Hardy biennial.
Purple. June.

M.fenestralis. Hardy biennial. Pur-
ple. July.

M. glabrata. Half-hardy evergreen.
White. August.

M. grcEca. Hardy annual. White.
August.

M. helvetica. (Swiss Stock.) Hardy
evergreen. Yellow. June.

M. incana. (Brompton and Twick-
enham Stock.) Hardy evergreen shrub.
Crimson. August. Many varieties.

M. livida. Hardy annual. Purple.

stroyed, for without the pollen produced July,
by their stamens, the fertile or female M. longipetala. Hardy annual. Red.
blossoms will not produce fruit. If .Tune
plants are grown in too high a tempera-
ture, there is reason to believe they
produce an excess of these sterile or
male blossoms.

S T E R N B E R G I A. Four species.

M.maritima. (Virginia Stock.) Hardy
annual. Red and white. June.

M. mutabilis. (Changeable Stock.)
Green-house evergreen. Yellow and
purple. May.

S T 0

556

S T 0

M. odoratissima. Green-house ever-
green. Crimson. June.

M. oxyr.eras. Hardy annual. Crim-
son. July.

M. parvijlora. Hardy annual. Pur-
ple. July.

M. purpurea. Half-hardy evergreen.
Purple. August.

M. sicula. Hardy biennial. Lilac.
July.

M. simplicicauUs. Hardy biennial.
Purple or white. July.

M. sinuata. Hardy biennial. Red.
July.

M. tartarica. Hardy biennial. Red.
or yellow. July.

M. tenella. (Five-leaved Stock.)
Hardy annual. Brown. July.

M. tortuosa. Green-house evergreen.
Purple. July.

M. tricuspidata. Hardy annual. Pur-
ple. July.

M. tristis, M. varia. (Night-smell-
ing or Dark-flowered Stock.) Green-
house evergreen. Crimson. June.

Souring Annuals. — Best time, end of
August, in pans filled with a soil of
equal parts peat and loam, and placed
in a cold frame; water frequently;
when they have got six leaves prick
singly into pots three inches and a half
diameter, in same kind of soil. Keep
in frames through the winter, and shel-
ter from frost. Remove without dis-
turbing the roots into beds and borders,
at the end of May.

Spring sowings in May, June, and
July, will succeed the autumn sown ;
if sown in a hot-bed during April, they
will be nearly as forward as the autumn
sown, but not bloom so strong.

Sou-ing Biennials. — This may be
done in any moderately rich border in
June; to be transplanted where they
are to remain, when of a moderate
size. j

Cuttings may be planted in May, of
any very good double variety, cutting '
them off with a portion of the stern's
bark, in a shady border, watering, and
covering with a hand-glass until esta-
blished. Select robust shoots of the
same year's growth ; strip off the leaves
from the bottom half of their length.
Water frequently, and by September '
they will form dwarf bushy plants. I
know of no means of promoting the ,
production of double flowers, except'
applying abundance of liquid manure
so soon as the flower buds appear. The

weakest seedlings are most likely to
produce double flowers.

STOCK-GILLIFLOVVER. SeeWall-
' flower.

I STOCKS are young trees or shrubs
raised from seed, suckers, layers, and
cuttings, for the reception of buds or
grafts from other trees or shrubs of a
kindred species.

Although the sap increases in specific
gravity, and, consequently, obtains most
accession of solid matter during its pro-
gress up the stem, yet the matter thus
obtained is not of paramount import-
ance, nor absolutely controlling the
subsequent changes to be effected ; for,
in such case, the green-gage would be
altered by its plum stock, and the non-
pareil by its crab stem. So far from
this being the case, the old gardener's
maxim, ' the graft overruleth the stock
quite,' is consonant with truth, though
it is to be taken with some reservation.
The graft prevails, and retains its quali-
ties, yet the stock has the power of in-
fluencing its productiveness, as well as
the quality of the fruit. Thus, a tree
having an expansive foliage, and robust
growth, indicative of large sap vessels,
and vigorous circulation, should never
be grafted upon a stock oppositely cha-
racterized, for the supply of sap will
not be sufficient. Illustrations are af-
forded by the codlin never succeeding
so well on a crab, nor a bigoureau on a
wild cherry, as they do on freer grow-
ing stocks. Indeed I have no doubt
that every tree and shrub succeeds
best, is most productive, and freest
from disease, if it be supplied with sap
from roots, and through a stem, of its
own particular kind. This is evident
to common sense ; nor would any fruit
scion be grafted upon a stock of another
species or variety, if it were not that
such stocks are most easily obtainable.
For example, our choicest cherries are,
for the reason assigned, grafted or bud-
ded upon the wild cherry; and every
one must have noticed the frequently-
occurring consequence, an enlarge-
ment, appearing like a wen, encircling
the tree just above where the graft and
the stock joined, the growth of the
former having far outstripped that of the
latter. If a tree could be nourished
from its own roots, from organs as-
signed by its Creator, as those best
suited to supply the most appropriate
quantity and quality of sap, there can

STO

557

STO

be no doubt that it would be productive hours ; a birch tree, a quantity equal to

of benefit; and this desideratum seems its own weight, duriii;r the bleeding

to be secured by the plan suggested by season; and a moderate sized maple,

M. Aibrett in the instances of apples about two hundred pints, during the

and pears ; and I see no reason forbid-
ding its adoption to any other grafted
tree. He recommends the grafts always

same period.

The habit of the stock, also, is of
much more importance than is usually

to be inserted close to the surface of considered. If it grows more rapidly.

the ground, or they might be even
rather below the surface, by scooping
out the earth around the stems of the

or has larger sap vessels than the scion
or bud, an enlargement occurs below
these; but if they grow more rapidly

stocks. When planted out, the lowest than the stock, an enlargement takes
extremity of the graft should be about place just above the point of union. In

four inches below the surface.

either case, the tree is usually rendered

After two or three years, at the close temporarily more prolific; but in the

of June, the soil should be removed, case where the stock grows more slow-

and just above the junction of the graft ly, the productiveness is often of very

and stock, with a gouge, one fourth of short duration, the supply of sap annu-

the bark removed by four cuts on op- ally becoming less and less sufficient to

posite sides of the stem.

sustain the enlarged production of blos-

The cuts being deep enough to re- som and leaves. This very frequently

move the inner bark, and the wounds occurs in the freer growing cherries,

covered immediately with rich soil, when inserted upon the wild species;

formed of one part putrescent cow- and still more frequently to the peach

dung, and two parts maiden loam, if and apricot upon stocks of the slow

kept constantly moist with water, and growing plums. It is highly important,

occasionally with liquid manure, roots therefore, to employ stocks, the growth

will usually be speedily emitted, espe-
cially if the place where a bud once
was formed be thus kept moist beneath
the soil.

But the stock has some other influ-

of which is as nearly similar as may be
to the parent of the buds or scion.

The earlier vegetation of the stock
than of the bud or graft is also import-
ant ; for, if these are earliest in develop-

ence over the sap, besides limiting the ment, they are apt to be exhausted and
quantity supplied to the scion, an in- die before the flow of sap has enabled
fluence not only arising from the size of granulation and union between the faces
its vessels, but upon its susceptibility to of the wounds, at the junction, to occur,
heat. It has a further influence over Mr. Knight-s observations upon this
the scion, by the sap becoming more point are the results of experience, and
rich, indicated by its acquiring a great- are so consonant with the suggestions
r; specific gravity in some stocks than of science, that I will quote them in his
in others, during its upward progress, own words, without comment : —
The specific gravity of the sap of a " The practice of grafting the pear
black cluster vine stock, on which a on the quince stock, and the peach and
black Hamburgh had been grafted, was, apricot on the plum, when extensive
when obtained six inches from the growth and durability are wanted, is
ground, 1003; and at five feet from the wrong; but it is eligible whenever it
ground, 1006 ; but the same black Ham- is wished to diminish the vigour and
burgh, growing upon its own roots, growth of the tree, and where its dura-
had specific gravities at corresponding bility is not thought important. The

heights of 1004 and 1009.

last remark applies chiefly to the Moor-

This increase is of great importance park a{)ricot,the abricot prchc, or abri-
to a tree's growth, when the quantity cot de Nancy, of the French.

of sap passing annually through its ves-

When great difficulty occurs in

sels is considered. The exact amount making a tree, whether fructiferous or

of this it is, perhaps, impossible to dis- ornamental, of any species or variety,

cover; but its extent may be appreciated produce blossoms, or in making its

bv the quantity of moisture their roots blossoms set when produced, success

are known to imbibe, and by llic facts probably will be obtained by budding

that a small vine branch has poured out or grafting upon a stock nearly enough

sixteen ounces of sap in twenty-four allied to the graft to preserve it alive

STO

558

STO

for a few years, "out not permanently. [ but I have ample reason to believe that
The pear tree affords a stock of tliis this opinion is wholly erroneous, and
kind to the apple, and I have had a this kind of hardiness in the root alone
heavy crop from a graft inserted in a j never can be a quality of any value in
tall pear stock, only twenty months , a stock, for the branches of every spe-
previously, when every blossom of the , cies of tree are much more easily de-
same variety of fruit in the orchard was stroyed by frost than its roots.

destroyed by frost. The fruit thus ob

Many believe also that a peach

tained was perfect externally, and pos- I tree, when grafted upon its native
sessed all its ordinary qualities; but : stock, very soon perishes; but my ex-
the cores were black, without seed ; perience does not further support this
and every blossom would have fallen , conclusion than that it [)roves seedling
abortively, if growing upon its native peach trees, when growing in a very
stock. The graft perished the winter : rich soil, to be greatly injured, and
following. often killed, by the excessive use of the

" My own experience induces me to ' pruning-knife upon their branches,
think very highly of the excellence of! when these are confined to too narrow

the apricot stock for the peach or
nectarine ; but whenever that or the
plum stock is employed,! am confident
the bud cannot be inserted too near the
ground, if vigorous and durable trees
are required.

" The form and habit which a peach
tree, of any given variety, is disposed

limits. I think the stock, in this in-
stance, can only act injuriously by sup-
plying more nutriment than can be
expended ; for the root which nature
gives to each seedling plant must be
well, if not best, calculated for its sup-
port; and the chief general conclusions
which experience has enabled me to

to assume, is very much influenced by ! draw safely are, that a stock of species

the kind of stock on which it is budded
If upon a plum or apricot stock, its
stem will increase in size considerably
as its base approaches the stock, and it
will be much disposed to emit many
lateral shoots, as always occurs in
trees whose stems taper considerably
upwards ; consequently, such a tree

or genus different from that of the fruit
to be grafted upon it, can be used rare-
ly with advantage, unless where the
object of the planter is to restrain and
debilitate ; and where stocks of the
same species with the bud or graft are
used, it will be found advantageous,
generally, to select such as approxi-

will be more disposed to spread itself ' mate in their habits and slate of change,
horizontally, than to ascend to the top ' or improvement from cultivation, those
of the wall, even when a single stem is I of the variety of fruit which they are
sufiered to stand perpendicularly. On intended to support."
the contrary, where a peach is budded I The only situation in which I can
upon a stock of some cultivated variety ' believe that the stock of another spe-
of its own species, the stock and the j cies can be advantageously employed,
budded stem remain very nearly of the ' is where the soil happens to be un-
same size at the point of junction, as ' friendly to the species from which the
well as above and below. No obstacle ' bud or scion is taken. This is justified
is presented to the ascent or descent by my observing that, in a garden so
of the sap, which appears to rise more low lying as to be very subject to an
abundantly to the summit of the tree. | overflow of water, the only pear trees
It appears, also, to flow more freely j which were at all productive were those
into the slender branches, which have grafted upon quince stocks, and the
been the bearing wood of preceding quince is well known to endure water
years; and these extend, consequently, much better than either the apple or
very widely compared with the bulk oft pear. — Princ. of Card.

the stock and large branches.

Stocks for general use may be used

When a stock of the same species for grafting or budding, when from the
with the graft or bud, but of a variety size of a good goosequill to half an
far less changed by cultivation, is em- inch, or not more than an inch in the
ployed, its effects are very nearly allied part where the graft or bud is to be in-
to those produced by a stock of another serted. Stocks of two or three inches,
species or genus. Some think the stock , or more, diameter, either the stems or
influences the hardiness of the scion ; branches, are also occasionally grafted

STO

559

STO

or budded with success, but are not
proper for general practice.

Crab Stocks are all such as are raised
from seeds, &c., of any wild ungrafted
trees, particularly if the fruit-tree kind,
such as the wild crab-apple of the
woods and hedges, wild pears, plums.

described under the name of that tribe,
as Pine Apple, Orchidaceous Plants,
Peach, &c.

Before giving a plan of each general
kind, a few observations may be pre-
fixed applicable to all.

Glass. — This should be of the best

wild cherry, and of such other trees as manufacture, for just in proportion to

have not been grafted or budded.
Free Stocks are such as are raised

its goodness of quality is the freedom
with which the rays of light pass

from the seed, layers, &c., of any of through, and a plant performs its di-

the cultivated varieties of fruit-trees,
and others. j

Paradise or Doucin stocks are raised
from layers or suckers, from a dwarf
variety of apple, the roots of which are
produced nearer to the surface than
those from crab stocks.

The French Paradise stock is dis-

gestive and assimilating processes the
nearer to the vigour with which it effects
them in a state of nature, just in pro-
portion as the light it basks in is similar
to that of its native habitant. But this
is not the only reason why good glass
should be employed in our garden
structures ; for whilst panes of common

tinguished from all others by its very [ crown glass readily break from frost or
dwarf growth, clear chestnut-coloured • the slightest twist of the wood-work,
shoots, and small fibrous roots, which good sheet glass will remain uninjured

spread naar the surface.

The English Paradise may be either
referred to as the Doucin of the French
or the Dutch Paradise; for in English
nurseries, trees propagated on either

by much greater violence and by the
fiercest hailstorms. Some injury from
the last, however, will always arise,
and this leads me to observe, that no one
having green-houses or stoves should

are said to be on paradise stocks. Of fail to have them insured by the " Hail-
these two, the Doucin has the darkest storm Insurance Company." Good
shoots. Their effects on the growth of glass is of little value unless kept clean,
the trees worked upon them are sinii- ! and for this purpose it should be
lar, being intermediate between the cleansed on both sides twice annually,
very dwarf habit induced by the French early in February and October, and on
Paradise, and the luxuriant growth in- "
duced by the crab or free stocks. —
Card. Chron. See Scion, Grafting,
and Budding.

S T (E B E . Four species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

the outside only in June.

The angle formed by the glass roof
of the hnt-house is of very considerable
importance, because rays of light are
refiectcd in proportion to the obli(iuity
with which they fall upon any given
surface : those which fall upon it per-
STOKESI.A. cyanea. Green-house \ pendicularly from the source of light

Seeds or divi- pass through with very slight diminu-
tion, but those falling upon it in a slant-
ing or oblique direction are reduced in
number in proportion to the obliquity
STOFPINti; is pinching or nipping off | of that direction. To ascertain how a

herbaceous perennial
sion. Common soil.

STONECROP. Sediim.

STONE PINE. Pinus Pinea

the extremity of a branch to prevent its
further extension in length. It is fre-
quently done either to promote its
robustness, or to promote the produc-
tion of laterals.

STOR.W. Styrax.

STORK\S BILL. Pelargonium.

STOVES, as they are usually called
in England, or hot-houses, as distinct-
ive from green-houses, are variously
constructed in accordance with the ha-
bits of the plants for which they are

lass roof may be constructed, so as to
receive the greatest number of rays of
' light from the sun perpendicularly, or
near to perpendicularity, at any given
time of the year, it is necessary to know
the latitude of the place where the hot-
house is erected, and the sun's declina-
tion at the period when most light is
required. The latter information may
be obtained from most almanacks, and
if it be subtracted from the latitude, the
remainder will be the angle desired.

intended. Those especially adapted to If London be the place, and May the
one tribe of plants will be particularly ; 6th the lime about when the most light

S T 0

560

S TO

is desired, the latitude being 51° 31% | Mr. Seymour, gardener to tlie Count-
and the sun's declension then 16° 36^ j ess of Bridgewater, at Ashridge Pari<,

nortli, therefore the roof ought to slope
at an angle of 34"-' 55'.

Fig. 157.

has these sensible remarks upon the
subject: —

" There ought to be three or four
sizes of panes used in horticultural struc-
tures ; suppose, for example, the largest
size for vineries, peach, and fig-houses ;
the next for pits for growing pines,
melons, and cucumbers; a third size
for frames; and the smallest for hand-
glasses. If the sizes are so arranged,
they will be found economical by the
saving of glass. When there is a gene-
ral repair going on with the hot-houses,
the glazier ought to begin with that in
which tlie largest sized panes are first,
and work down to the smallest, and not,
as is freejuently the case, cut a large
piece of glass away to replace a small
one. In my opinion, there are no better
sized panes for hot-houses than seven
inches wide, by four and a half deep ;
for pits, by three inches deep ; lor
frames, five and a half by two and a
half inches deep, &:c., with a lap of one-
eighth of an inch. The glass should be
clear, stout, and selected as flat as pos-
sible, so that the panes may lie perfectly
level one upon the other, and so cut
being vertical. The asterisk d points that they may not fit too tightly against
out its position at the equinoxes, and Ej the ribs, (which is frequently practised
its position at midwinter. If the best by some glaziers,) but room'should be
glass be employed, it is an excellent i left for the ribs to swell and expand,
plan to have it put double in each sash. Before a light is glazed, all the panes

In latitude 52°, Mr. Knight found
from lengthened experiments, that the
best angle is about 34°, considering the
services of a hot-house through the year,
and to illustrate this, he gave the pre-
ceding diagram. About the middle of
IMay, the elevation of the sun at noon
corresponds nearly with the asterisk
A ; in the beginning of June and early
in July it will be vertical at b, and at
midsummer at c. only six degrees from

an interval of half an inch being left
between the two panes, and a small
hole at the corner of the inner one to
prevent the glass being broken by the
expansion or contraction of the air be-
tween. This confined air is one of the

should be laid in loose, to see that they
fit easy and are quite level, as well as
range one with the other; when that is
done, the panes must be taken out and
some well worked putty laid in the re-
bate, the panes must then be replaced

worst possible conductors of heat, keep- I and pressed firmly down, and the bot-
ing the house from being rapidly cooled torn frame bedded in the puttv, so as
during the coldest weather, and thus is not to leave a vacancy. When the glass
effected a very great economy of fuel, is bedded in the putty along the astra-
■whilst little or no interruption is caused gals, the usual way is to ' front puttv'
to the entrance of light. — Princ. of the whole at once ; but at Kew, the

Gard.

Glazing, or the mode in which the
glass is inserted in the frames, is a very
important consideration ; for if done
imperfectly, moisture from rain, dew,
or vapour condensed within the house
penetrates between the rebate of the

lights are put by after the glass is bed-
ded till the bedding putty is dry. The
astragal then gets a coat of paint, and
also a strip of the glass, the depth of
the bedding on the astragal, and when
this is dry the front putty is put on.
The coat of paint on the glass will cause

frame-work and the glass, or between the front putty to adhere to the glass,
the laps of the panes themselves, and and it will remain sound many years
«»-„„„j;„„ ;„ .i,„ „„t „(• c :.,_ ..^c^:\ i »i . i •» ■ . -.i

expanding in the act of freezing unfail
ingly cracks them. Again, if the p:
fit tightly into the rebates, any sue
expansion causes a similar fracture

_-,- ^ _ ^ longer than when it is put on without

ingly cracks them. Again, if the panes , this precaution. This is a capital con-
fit tightly into the rebates, any sudden trivance for lights that slide up and
«.,^o,.„; „„„ „ „;™;i„. r.„„. — , down J but for lights that are fixed, the

S TO

561

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best way is to hnve no front putty at all. j most important property, when we con-
Instead of overlapping the panes as is '• sider that the healthy action of plants
done in the ordinary way, I cause the is in proportion to the quantity of light
glazier to cut each with a perfectly \vhich reaches them. The disadvan-
straight edge, and then to place them , tages of such roofs are, that they ra-
one before the other, so that they shall I pidly heat, and as quickly cool down;
all fit exactly. When the light is com- > they are therefore liable to sudden
pleted, the surface of the glass is per- changes of temperature, which can
fectly level, and there are no interstices only be guarded against by great atten-

in which the dust, &c., can accumulate,
or for the oeposit of moisture. By this
means one cause of considerable break-
age in frosty weather is entirely avoided;
and if a pane of glass is accidentally i

tion, w'hich is expensive, and by a large
consumption of fuel. We should say
use iron, if you prefer success and
beautiful form to cost, and can rely
upon the attention of your people, but

broken, as each pane is independent of employ wood if you are obliged to study

Fig. 158.

the others, the fracture does not extend
beyond the single pane. The whole is
very firm and compact, and the glass is
not liable to shake out, as frequently
occurs in opening and shutting sashes."
— Gard. Chron.

If lapping be permit-
ted, its width should not
exceed one-eighth of an
inch, and the panes
should be acutely rhom-
boid, to throw the con-
densed vapour down to
the lower corner, and
induce it to trickle down
the bars instead of drop-
ping. It is very doubt-
ful whether it reduces
the amount of moisture
taken between the laps
by capillary attraction.

FlufS are best built of
bricks set on their
edges, and the top form-
ed of a shallow iron
trough for the purpose
of holding water, and
thus keeping the air
moist as required. At
night, for retaining heat,
pantiles may be placed
along within the trough ;
the best form is the an-
nexed.
Roof. — The framework of this may
be of iron or of wood, and the com-
parative merits of the two materials
are thus fairly stated by Dr. Lindley : —
" The advantages of iron roofs for
hot-houses are, that they are more dur-
able than wood, and allow a far greater
quantity of light to pass through them
than wooden roofs, the difference being
as seven to twenty-eight, or even
thirtv, in favor of iron, and this is a
'36

Fig. 159.

I 1

economy." — Gard. Chron.

Heating. — Flues for imparting heat
to hot-houses are for the most part su-
perseded by either tanks or hot-water
pipes; but where retained, the top
should be formed of iron plates, these
admitting the heat most readily into the
house, and consequently requiring a
less consumption of fuel. If it be de-
sirable to have covering for the flues
that will retain the heat longer, as
when the fires are made up at night,
this may be readily accomplished by
putting a row of the thick sijuare pav-
ing tiles on the top of the whole length
of the flue, an hour or two before the
houses are finally closed.

The power of retaining heat, or in
other words of cooling slowly and gra-
dually, which renders the covering of
paving tiles desirable, renders the tank
system of heating by hot-water still
more efficient. It is a scientific opera-
tion throughout, and will be best appre-
ciated by a reference to Mr. Rendle's
diagram and description at page 500.

It is a law of tluids that their hottest
portions rise to the surface of the con-
taining vessel, and the coldest portions
as invariably subside to the lowest sur-
face, because heat makes them expand,
and consequently diminishes their spe-
cific gravity; and the abstraction of
heat makes them contract, and as conse-
quently increase that gravity. When
the boiler and tank are filled with
water, as well as their connecting pipes,
and a fire is lighted, the hottest portfons
rise to the top, flow along the surface,
and getting cool, sink to its bottom, and
passing downward enter again at the
lower part, to be once more heated and
pass through the same circulatory sys-
tem. A very small boiler will speedily
raise the heat of the water, in a very

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562

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large tank, to 180°; and if this heat be I Now in the house, the dimensions of
imparted late in the evening, it will which are above given, if the lowest
retain its heat but little diminished until | temperature in the night be fixed at 50^,
the morning. The smoke, by means of and IC^ are allowed for winds, and the
a flue, may be made to impart heat to external air is supposed to be at zero or
the house, by passing through it, or 0 of Fahrenheit, then 1175 multiplied
may at once enter the chimney or pipe I by 60*^, and the product divided by 2-1 ,
attached to the summit of the boiler. ' the difference between 200 and CO, will

Hot water in a tank is superior to the i give us the quotient 236 = to the sur-
same source of heat in pipes, because ' face of pipe required. Now the house
it is not liable to freeze ; and it is pre- ; being thirty feet long, five pipes of that
ferable to steam, because its heating length, and five inches in diameter,
power continues until the whole mass : will be about the proper quantity,
of water is cooled down to the tempe- | If hot water be employed instead of
rature of the hou&e, whereas steam . steam, the following proportions and
ceases to be generated as a source of, information, obtained from Mr. Rendle,
heat the moment the temperature falls j may be adopted confidently as guides,
below 212^. If steam be employed, J In a span roof propagating house, forty
Mr. Tredgold has given the following j feet long, thirteen feet broad, seven
rules for calculating the surface of I feet high in the centre, and four feet
pipe, the size of the boiler, the quan- high at the two fronts, having a super-
tity of fuel, and the quantity of ventila- ficial surface of glass amounting to
tion, required for a house thirty feet 538 square feet, Mr. Rendle has a tank
long, twelve feet wide, with the glass eighty-three feet long, running round
roof eight feet, length of the rafters three sides of the house, four feet wide
fourteen feet, height of the back wall i and about eight inches deep, and con-
fifieen feet. The surfiice of glass in ] sequently capable of containing nearly
this house will be seven hundred and j 300 cubic feet of hot water, though only
twenty feet superficial, viz., five hun-lhalf that quantity is used. This is
dred and forty feet in the front and roof, ' closely approaching to the size pointed
and one hundred and eighty feet in the i out, according to Mr. Tredgold's for-
ends. Now, half the vertical height, i mula. The mean temperature of a hot-
seven feet six inches, multiplied by the j water tank, will never be much above
length in feet, and added to one and a i 100^, so that for the sized house men-
half time the area of glass in feet, is tioned by that skillful engineer, the
equal to the cubic feet of air to be [ divisor must be 2- 1 times the difference
warmed in each minute when there are i between 100'^ and 60°, which gives as
no double doors. i the quotient 335 cubic feet.

That is, 7.5 X 30+U X 720=1305 1 The tank in Mr. Rendle's propagating
cubic feet. But in a house with wooden house, is built lined with Roman ce-
bars and raflers, about one-tenth of this ment, and if the temperature at the
space will be occupied with woodwork, ! time of lighting the fire be 903,thetein-
which is so slow a conductor of heat, ; perature of the atmosphere of the house
that it will not suffer a sensible quan- 67^, and the temperature out of doors
tity to escape, therefore 130 feet may ' 50'^, the quantity of small coal or
be deducted, leaving the quantity to be I breeze required to raise the tempera-
warmed per minute = 1175 cubic feet, j ture of the water to 125^', is 28 pounds.

To ascertain the surface of pipe re- : In twelve hours, the water cools after
quired to warm any given quantity of the fire has been extinguished, from
air, multiply the cubic feet of air to be i 125^ to 93°.
heated per minute, by the difference When steam is employed, tlie space

between the temperature the house
to be kept at, and that of the external
air in degrees of Fahrenheit's thermo-

for steam in the boiler is easily tbund
by multiplying the length of the pipe
feet, by the quantity of steam

meter, and divide the product by 2-1, i foot in length of the pipe.

the difference between 200, which is | Decimal parts of a

the temperature of the steam pipes, and „" "J,""^;" '^!!!kL" cuIjic foot ot'sieara

tlie temperature of the house: the quo-
tient will be the surface of cast iron
pipe required.

in each footof pipe.
. 0.0545
. 0.1225

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563

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2 . .

. . 0.21S5

2i . .

. . 0.34

3 . .

. . 0.49

4 . .

. . 0.S73

6 . .

. . 1.063

6 . .

. . 1.964

7 . .

. . 2.67

8 . .

. . 3.49

9 . .

. . 4.42

10 . .

. . 5.45

gardener usually suspects; for if the
sulphurous acid amounts to no more
than one cubic foot in ten thousand of
the air in a hot-house, it will destroy
most of its inhabitants in two days'.
To avoid such destruction, for the com-
fort of visitors, and above all for the
sake of the plants' vigour, air should be
admitted as freely as the temperature
will permit. The foul warm air can
In the above noticed house, the be easily allowed to escape throusih
length of pipe five inches in diameter, ventilators in the most elevated parts
is 150 feet; and these multiplied by of the roof, and fresh warm atr can be
1.363 =:20. 5 cubic feet of steam, and as readily supplied through pipes made
as the pipe will condense the steam of to enter near the flooring of the house
about one cubic foot and one-third of after passing through hot water, or
water per hour, therefore the boiler other source of heat,
should be capable of evaporating H I am quite aware that Mr. Knight
cubic feet of water per hour, to allow has stated that he paid little attention
for unavoidable loss. In the extreme to ventilation, and that plants will be
case of the thermometer being at zero, vigorous for a time in VVardian cases;
the consumption of coals to keep up but this does not prove that their Creator
this evaporation will be 12| pounds per made a mistake when he placed vege-
hour. , tables in the open air.

These calculations are all founded Plants confined in houses or other
upon the supposition that the condensed close structures may be made to grow
water is returned to the boiler whilst in spite of such continement ; but all
hot; but if this cannot be eff'ected, e.\perience proves that other favourable
then one-twelfth more fuel will be re- circumstances, such as heat, light, and
quired. The boiler for the supply moisture being equal, those plants are
either of steam or hot-water, should be most vigorous and healthy which have

covered with the best available non-con-
ductor of heat, and this is either char-
coal or sand.

A case of brickwork, with pulverized
charcoal, between this and the boiler,
is to be preferred to any other. A

the most liberal supply of air.

There have been many modes sug-
gested for self-acting ventilators, de-
scriptions of which may be found in
Loudon's Encyclopadia of Gardening,
and the Transactions of the London

boiler having a surface of seventy feet Horticultural Society; but there are
exposed to the air, in a temperature of none that can supersede the gardener's
32^, requires an extra bushel of coals personal care, tlirected by the ther-
to be consumed per day, to compensate uiometer and experience,
for the heat radiated and conducted The practice of all ventilation is
from that surface ; and the smaller the founded on the principle that the hot-
boiler, the greater is the proportionate test air rises to the highest part of the
waste. The surface of the pipes should house, and if there allowed to escape,
be painted black, because a surface of colder air will come in below, if al-
this colour gives out more heat in a lowed, to supply its place. To pre-
given time than any other. — Prin. of vent the hot air escaping too rapidly,
Gardening. the ventilators should be fitted wiih
Ventilation. — The accumulation of doors or caps, capable of regulating the
gaseous matters, such as sulphurous size of the orifice ; and the openings
acid and ammonia, and the consumption admitting fresh and colder from with-
of carbonic acid, render ventilation out, should have similar regulators,
essential to the health of plants in fore- and be made by means of pipes passing
inp-pits and hot-houses. They cannot through the bark-bed, tank of hot water,
inhale air overloaded with these con- or other source of heat, so that the
laminations, without being speedily in- reduction of temperature be not too
jured, and the proportions of those rapid.

gases which rapidly cause disease, or ' Some guide in constructing venti-

even death, are much less than the lators proportioned to the size of the

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564

-♦

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house to be ventikted, will be found commonly surrounded by a tbin brick
Tn Mr Hood's following table of the wall : but planks of stone or plates of
quant y of air, in cubic feet, discharged slate or cast-.ron, are to be preferred,
ner mLte hrough a ventilator, of The roof, when necessary, may be sup-
per minuie, uirouf,!! <t ^nrtcrl hv iron columns from the middle

which the area is one square foot.

Difference between temperature

of room and external air.

5°

10°

15°

20°

25°

30°

in

116 164^ 200

235

260 284

15

142 202 245

284

318 348

9,0

164 232 1 285

330

368 404

95

184 260 318

368

410 450

30

201, 284 347

403

450 493

35

218 306 376

436

486 521 1

40

235 329 403 465 518 570

45

248 348 427 493 551, 60o

50

260 367 450 518 579 635

ported by iron columns from the middle
of the pit, a.

" Shelves may be placed against the
back wall, b, and occasionally a nar-
row-leaved creeper run up the roof, c.
We may add, that houses of this de-
scription are generally placed east and
west acainst walls, on account of the
shelter^thereby obtained during winter,
when a high degree of heat is kept up
within, while the cold is excessive with-
out."— Enc. of Gard.

But the tank system is far superior to
the foregoing; and the following de-
tail, given by the Rev. John Huyshe, is
so full of information upon the point,
that I extract it entire from the Gar-
dener^ s Chronicle: —

The foregoing table shows the dis-
charge, through a ventilator of any
height, and for any difference of tempe-
rature. Thus, suppose the height of
the ventilator from the floor of the room
to the extreme point of discharge to be
thirty feet, and the difference between
the temperature of the room and of the
external air to be 15°, then the dis-
charge through a ventilator one foot
square, will be 347 cubic feet per mi-
nute. If the height be forty feet, and
the difference of temperature 20°, then
the discharge will be 465 cubic feet per
minute.

Bark or Moist Stove. — Mr. Loudon
gives the following design and descrip-
tion of a moist stove, warmed on the
old plan of deriving heat by the com-
bined agency of bark and flues. In-
stead of a stage in the centre it has

"A is the boiler, its top level with

the floor of the house, the fireplace

being in a back shed. The boiler is

small and conical; b 1 and b 2 are the

_ tanks; 0 is a trap-door opening into the

stead of a stage in the centre it has ^^^j ^^ ^jl ^|^g j^^^gg ^^jt^ gjgam at

a pit, which may be from two and a halt i^^^^^ ^^^ arrows indicate the

to four feet deep, according as bark or
leaves are to be used, the latter mate-
rial requiring the greatest depth. It is

Fig. 160.

pleasure. The arrows indicate the
course of the water through the tanks
and pipes. The two pipes, though
drawn side by side, are really one
above the other; the return pipe being,
of course, the lower. Above these
pipes is a stone shelf. Tank b 1 is

,made of oak ; the other, b 2, of elm.

I The wood of each is two inches and a
half in thickness; and they stand on

I oak blocks, three inches thick, to raise
them from the floor. This tends to

; prevent their decay, and promotes a
freer circulation of'hot air. The bot-

i torn boards are placed the lengthway

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565

STO

of the tank. The bottom, as well as
the sides of the tanks, are bolted to-
gether by iron bars, five-eighths of an
inch in thickness, passed through the
wood, and screwed up as tightly as
possible. Each tank is divided by an
inch and a half elm board, and is co-
vered with common roofing-slates —
those that are generally called ' Prin-
cesses,' twenty-four inches long and
fourteen wide; the edges not cut
square, but used just as purchased,
and the joints stopped merely with
wetted clay : there is no fear of too
much steam escaping into the house.

" As the divisions of tank b were
fifteen inches wide, a small strip of oak
is nailed on the inside of the tank, of
sufficient thickness to allow the slates,
which were fourteen inches wide, to
reach across. Round the edges of the
tanks is an inch board, eleven inches
deep; and the plunging material is fine
sand. The slates carry the weight of
this sand, though eleven inches deep,
with ease, not one of them having
cracked.

" In a considerable part of tank b 1 ,
rich mould is put instead of the sand,
in which pines are planted without any
pots, after the French mode. The tank
holds twenty-two hogsheads ; and the
boiler, though a small one, is fully able
to heat this quantity. The water, heat-
ed to 114"-' or 11 5"^ of. Fahrenheit, is
high enough to keep the house at a
temperature of VO'' at night; and a mo-
derate fire, kept up for five or sis hours

in the twenty-four, is abundantly suffi-
cient."— Gard. Chron.

Dry Stove. — Formerly this was heat-
ed by flues only, a stage for plants oc-
cupying the place of the bark-pit in the
moist stove. But modern science has
suggested the far better mode of heat-
ing by either steam or hot water. Of
these two the latter is by far the most
prelerable. The following is the plan
adopted at Elcot, and has never been
much improved : —

" Brick flues are subject, from their
numerous joints and the mortar crack-
ing, to give out at times a sulphureous
gas, which is injurious to plants; and
even with two fireplaces in a house
forty or fifty feet long, it is impossible
to keep up an equal temperature in the
whole length. The houses get over-
heated in the neighbourhood of tho
fireplace; and it is difficult to maintain
a proper warmth at the extremities of
the flues.

" Steam may do very well on a large
scale, and where there is constant at-
tention to the fire, both day and night;
but the objections are, the great ex-
pense of a steam-boiler and the appa-
ratus belonging to it, the frequent
repairs that are required, and the
necessary attention to the fire, which
is as great upon a small scale as upon
a large one. Besides this, there is a
greater risk of explosion in a hot-house
steam-boiler than in that of a steam-
engine ; for steam-engines generally
have persons properly instructed to

STO

566

STO

manage them ; but gardeners, or their j to the ends of the house along the sidea
assistants, cannot be so competent. j of the flues, where they unite to cast-

" The heating with hot water has | iron reservoirs at each end of the iiouse,
none of the objections I have men- i g g", which reservoirs are each three
tioned as belonging to flues and steam. 1 feet six inches long, one foot six inches
The apparatus is simple, and not liable I wide, and one foot eight inches deep,
to get out of order. The boiler has 1 having iron covers. These reservoirs
only a loose wooden cover, and no | arefilled with water thatcommunicates,
safety-valves are required. The fuel I by means of the pipes, with the water

consumed is very moderate, and when
once the water is heated, very little at-
tention is wanted ; for it retains its
heat for many hours after the fire has
gone out.

" The house is forty feet long and
ten feet wide inside, heated by a boiler,
a, placed in a recess in the centre of
the back wall ; the fireplace under the
wall is got at from a back shed, b. The
boiler is two feet six inches long, one
foot six inches wide, and one foot eight
inches deep. From the end of the
boiler proceed horizontally four cast-
iron pipes of three inches and a half
diameter ; two of them are joined to the
boiler just above the bottmm, and the
other two directly above these, and
just below the surface of the water.
The house is divided by glazed parti-
tions into three compartments, d, e,f,
for the convenience of forcing one part
without the other.

" The middle compartment is two
lights in width, and the other two have
four lights each.

" The pipes from the boiler go hori-
zontally to the front of the house, where
one upper and one lower pipe branch

n the boiler.

" When the boiler, pipes, and reser-
voirs are filled, and a fire lighted under
the boiler, the heated water, ascending
to the top of the boiler, forces its way
along the upper pipes to the reservoir,
the cold water finding its way back to
the bottom of the boiler through the
under pipes ; and the circulation con-
tinues regular as long as there is any
heat under the boiler, the hot water
flowing through the upper pipes to the
reservoir, and, as it cools, returning
back to the boiler through the under
pipes.

" I have repeatedly, after the water
has been heated, immersed a thermome-
ter in the reservoirs at the ends of the
house, and have only found a difference
of three or four degrees between that
and the water in the boiler. It is not
necessary to make the water boil ; and,
if the fire is judiciously managed, no
steam will be raised and no water
wasted. It is, however, necessary to
examine the boiler occasionally, and to
add water when any has evaporated.

" Valves might be fixed in the boiler,
pipes, and reservoirs, for letting steam

to the east compartment, and other mto the house if required ; but that
two pipes to the west, and are carried i would induce the necessity of boiling

Fig. 163.

S T R

567

S T R

the water; and it has not been done their ripeninfr: — White Alpine; Old
here, as I find I can produce all the | Scarlet; drove End Scarlet; Kcene's
steam I require, with little trouble, by 1 Seedling ; Roseberrv ; Garnstone Scar-
wetting the pipes with a watering-pot. j let; Myatt's Eliza ; Old Pine ; Myatt's
" I am persuaded that the advantages [ British Queen; Large Elat Hautbois ;
of this mode of heating, with its great I American Scarlet; Downton ; Elton;
simplicitv, will give satisfaction to every I Coul's Late Scarlet; and Turner's
practical gardener who has an oppor- 1 Pine. The chief bearing-time of these

is from the end of June to the middle
of July ; but the White Alpine pro-

tunity of trying it. When once the

water is heated and the fires wel

made, he may retire to rest, certain j duces successive crops until November.

that the pipes will not get cold during I have even gathered from them a dish

the night, but retain a considerable heat late in December.

in the morning." — Trans. Hort. Soc.

STRANV.BSIA glaucescens. Hardy
evergreen tree. Grafting or budding.
Common soil.

STRAPWOOD. Corrigiola.

S T R A T I O T E S aloidcs. Water
Soldier. Hardy aquatic perennial.
Suckers. Loam and peat.

S T R A V A D I U M. Three species.
Stove evergreen trees. Layers. Sandy
peat.

STR.\WBERRY. Fragaria.

Species and Varieties. — F. Virgin-
iana : Scarlet or Virginia Strawberry.
American Scarlet; Bishop's Wick;
Black Roseberry ; Coul's Late Scarlet;
Garnstone Scarlet ; Grove End Scarlet ;
Melon ; Old Scarlet ; Roseberry ; South-
borough ; and Wilmot's Late Scarlet.

F. Vesca Nigella: Black Strawberry.
Downton ; P21ton ; and Myatt's Pine.

F. Grandiflora : Pine Strawberry. —
Myatt's British Queen ; Myatt's Eliza ;
Keene's Seedling; Old Caroline, or
Pine; Round White Caroline; and
Swainstone's Seedling.

F. Chilensis : Chili Strawberry. —
The Scarlet Chili, Yellow Chili, and
Wilmot's Superb, are the only varieties
of this class at all deserving cultivation;
and even these are woolly and defi-
cient in flavour.

F. Moschata : Hautboy Strawberry. —
Black Hautbois, Common Hautbois ;
Large Flat; Prolific, or Conical; and
Round-fruited Muscatelle.

F. Collina Viridis : Green Strawber-
ry.— Of this class the Green Pine, or
Pine-apple, deserves culture ; its fruit
being solid, juicy, and fine-flavoured.

F. Collina Alba and Rubra: .\lpine,

or Monthly, and Wood Strawberry

American .\lpine ; Red Alpine; Red
Wood (F. Vesrn Rubra) ; White Alpine ;
White Wood (F. V. Alba).

The following is a selection from the
best of the preceding, in the order of

Soil and Situation. — Any good deep
loamy soil will produce good strawber-
ries. It should be well trenched and
manured previously to planting. Though
they will succeed when partially shaded
by trees, yet they are best flavoureil
when grown in an open compartment,
with no other shade than that from their
own leaves. If Alpines are planted on
south-west, east, and north borders,
they will give a succession of fruit from
June till December.

" Reds, four feet wide, should be
marked out with a foot-alley between
each, which is highly necessary to pre-
vent those who gather the fruit from
treading between the plants ; and lastly,
the runners arc planted two feet apart.
A bed thus made~will last three years,
without requiring anything further, not
even so mu^ as a top-dressing. My-
att's pine w'lTl grow profusely on light,
rich, sandy, alluvial soils, near the sea.
In such situations other strawberries
are apt to throw out too many runners ;
and for such Myatt's plan is well adapt-
ed."— Gard. Chron.

Manures. — The best top-dressing for
strawberry beds is a little leaf-mould,
pointed in with a fork, early in March.
A good addition also is nitrate of soda,
three ounces to each square yard,
sprinkled over the surface at the same
season. Bone dust, and charred turf,
pointed in with a fork, in October, have
also been found highly beneficial.

Propagation. — This is chiefly by run-
ners; but the Alpines are best propa-
gated by seed. All other kinds can
only be obtained true by planting the
runners. The first of these should ho
pegged down as early as possible, and
all others removed to promote the
quick rooting and strength of the young
plants.

" It is a very good plan to encourage
the earliest runners by letting them

STR

568

STR

root in small pots sunk in the earth; as than can possibly be avoided, as they
soon as they are well rooted, plant them , are of great importance towards the

in their beds." — Gard. Chron.

success of the crop. Before the leaves

" The seeds of the true Alpine straw- cover too much of tlie surface, lioe
berry may be obtained from the Paris gently amongst them to destroy all
seedsmen. The seeds should be sown weeds, and afterwards cover the sur-
in a bed of light rich soil, or in pans, face with clean straw. Take the first
and the plants afterwards planted where produced runners from them, and plant
they are to remain for fruiting, the soil them in a nursery bed as in the previous
being trenched, and well mixed with season ; and when the fruit is all ga-
rotlen dung. You may insure a more thered, destroy the old plants, and the
abundant crop late in the season by ground will be then ready for cauli-
cutting off the blossoms that appear flowers, or any other crop required to
previously to June." — Gard. Chron. , be put out at that time. Myatt-s pine
Planting. — The best period for mak- will do little good by remaining a third
ing strawberry beds is from the close of season upon the same ground, however

well manured; and this is generally
applicable to hautboys, the Elton pine,
Downton, and in fact to all strawber-
ries."— Gard. Chron.

Beds. — " Never have more than three
rows in a bed. Let them be eighteen
inches apart, and the plants twelve

July until the middle of October — the
earlier the better — but this must be con-
trolled by the rooting of the runners.
If the planting be deferred until spring,
they never succeed so well, and the
produce that year is very small. Show-
ery weather is the best for planting, and
the less the roots are disturbed the bet- i inches apart in the rows; or two feet

ter, which is the chief reason why in-
ducing the runners to root in small pots
is beneficial ; they can be turned out
of these without any injury to the
roots. Myatt's pines are more difficult
to grow fruitfully than other varieties,
but Mr. Mearns says they will not fail
if the following precai,'tions are adopt-
ed :—

" Take off the first runner plants as

by eighteen inches, according to the
richness of the soil, and vigorous
growth of the variety. The pines re-
quire more room than the scarlets.

" Strawberries generally, but espe-
cially Myatt's pine, succeed best upon a
bank facing the south-west.

'• The old Hautboy strawberry bears
the male and female flowers on differ-
ent roots. The mode of planting is

X

X

X

X

soon as they have rooted :iflie weather I this: mark the male plant, the sterile,
being showery is the more suitable for and plant the lines in quincun.x thus —
transplanting. Get a piece of well-ex-
posed rich ground ready for their recep-
tion, according to the quantity desired, : the middle roots marked X to be tlie
and let it be divided into four-feet beds. ! male plants, and the others the female.
Plant them about four inches apart; If this rule is observed, you will never
water them, and shade them for a few fail to have abundance of fruit. The
days if the sun should be powerful, and only time to mark the males is when
keep them clear from weeds. Get a I they are in blossom; and every gar-
dener should know them, and keep
them apart in his nursery, to take young
ones from." — Gard. Chron.

Dr. Lindley has these justly discri-
minating observations on the frequent
renewal of the beds : —

"With regard to the opinion that a
fresh plantation of strawlierries should
be made every year, to be destroyed
after having once born fruit, and that

piece of ground prepared for their final
transplanting, either in autumn or tiie
following spring, by trenching and ma-
nuring it. Plant them eighteen inches
row from row, and nine inches in the )
row; and if any blossoms appear the
first season pinch thern off, and keep
them free from weeds; but it is not
necessary to divest them of their run-
ners until the following spring, when i
the beds are to be cleaned, and all the finest crops can only be obtained by

runners cut oft'; but the soil should by
no means be stirred between them any
further than with a Dutch hoe, to
loosen the surface lightly, and without
destroying more of tlie surface-roots

this metliod, there are some doubts.
Mr. Keene, the fortunate raiser of the
seedling which bears his name, and an
extensive cultivator, had a tolerable
crop the first year, an excellent one the

STR

569

STR

second, and after the third year he dc- After-Culture. — " Remove all runners

stroyed the plantation. Those called not required for planting as often as

Pine Stra\vi)erries, such as the Old they appear, for their growth at first is

Pine, Keene's Seedling, Elton, &c., at the evpense of the parent, and the

will bear well in the same situation for
many years, if properly managed.

" That scarlets are best when the
plantations are frequently renewed, is
generally admitted ; and there are some

more beds are matted with plants, the
more these will draw the moisture out
of the soil.

" What would be just sufficient for
supplying the evaporation of a moderate

large varieties winch appear to have quantity of plants, would be completely

more or less of the Chili in their con-
stitution, as jMyatt's Seedlings, which
require that runners be early establish-
ed, for bearing in the following season,
as the old plants are apt to die off. As
fruit can be obtained earlier in the sea-
son from plants that have not previously
borne, it is advisable to renew some
portion every year; but the propriety
of annually destroying the whole, de-
pends very much on circumstances, and
therefore the method cannot be recom-
mended except in particular cases." —
Card. Cliron.

The surface of the soil should be co-
vered with straw, or the mowings ol

exhausted by an excessive number.
Stirring the soil so as not to injure the
roots, mulching with grass or litter, or
paving with flat tiles or small round
pebbles and occasional waterings, are
the best means to adopt.

" In thin soil the plantations will re-
quire to be more frequently renewed
than where it is deeper, and of a more
substantial quality." — Card. Ctiron.

The spade should never be permitted
to enter among strawberries, except to
dig them up when a bed is to be de-
stroyed ; the hoe, or at the most point-
ing with a three-pronged fork, is all the
surface-stirring required, if the beds

grass-plots, during the bearing season, were well trenched when made, ajid
to preserve moisture to the roots of the , have not been trampled upon.

I . 1.1 .K _ r- . :. <• u _: ' T .. I ^ n T., ..l..„;.. ♦!,„

plants, and to keep the fruit from being
dirt-splashed.

To promote an early produce of fruit,
it is also suggested by Mr. G. L. Smartt,
of Enfield, — that " there should be fixed
on each side of the rows of strawber-
ries, just before they come into blossom,
feather-edged boards, at an angle of 50'"
or 00'^. This may be effected by nail-
ing two narrow slips of wood to each
board, and pushing them into the ground

Late Crops. — To obtain these of the
Alpine, it is correctly recommended to
sow the seed in pans, and place in a
hot-bed about February, or not later
than the first week in RIarch. " When
the plants are hardied off, plant out in
good time in May; they will bear a
plentiful crop in August and September
following, and continue to bear until
stopped by the frost. The same plants
will also bear earlier than the large

The boards should be painted black, sorts, and continue on until the crop
This plan makes two or three weeks raised from seed (as above) succeed,
difference in the ripening of the fruit ; \ when they can be thrown away. Large
but glass or an oiled paper frame being stones, or tiles, or slates, placed be-
placed on the top, makes a greater dif- , tween the plants, will keep the roots
fercnce still, and prevents any of the , moist through the summer months, and
fruit from being trod upon, or eaten by . ripen the fruit. Seed should always be
vermin. This plan at first sight may saved from the finest fruit; to get them
appear to be an expensive one, but it is large and plentiful, waterings (w ith now
. 111. •.. .1 1.1 __ .„.N ...ni ;.„.,. .^..«

not so; any old boards will answer the
purpose. I have bought old feather-
edgod boards at one half-penny per
foot ; and as they are only used in sum-
mer, they last for many years. The
expense is saved in the first year; for
the wood, although painted on each

and then manure water) will improve
the size of the fruit."— Garrf. Cliron.

To obtain late crops of other straw-
berries, as of the Keene's Seedling,
Mr. W. Godwin recommends — " plants
which were early in spring to be plant-
ed out into a rich border, to remain

side with a coat of invisible green, costs until the last week of September, when
only about three-halfpence the foot, they will throw up very strong spikes
while the increase of fruit in quantity, of flowers ; take up and pot in the same
as well as in quality, quite compen- , soil in which they were growing, and
sates for the outlay." — Card. Chron. \ place in a pine frame. They will bear

S TR

570

STR

fruit to near the close of the year." — ' must be immediately pinched out; they
Gard. Chron. \ should have their balls carefully re-

Forcing. — On this point we have the iduced, and be repotted in larger pots
following directions from one of the I early in August, protecting them from
most eminent of modern horticulturists, I the late autumnal rains, and from frost."

Mr. Paxton : —

" Select for this purpose, in the mid-
dle of August, a sufficient number of the
best runners from approved kinds to
have choice from, and plant them six
inches apart, in beds, upon a strong
border in a dry and sheltered situation.
As soon as the leaves have withered,'

— Gnrd. Chron.

" For succession," Mr. Paxton says,
" strong runners are taken up in Sep-
tember, and planted about six inches
apart, in manured and well-prepared
beds, four feet wide, in a somewhat
sheltered situation ; there they are al-
lowed to remain until the following

mulch them lightly with well-rotted ma- July, during which perinrt they must be
nure, and if very severe weather occur, kept very clean from weeds, have the
protect them for the time with fern or flowers and runners regularly pinched
litter. They must be kept the follow- off, and be watered whenever likely to
ing spring free from weeds and runners, suffer from drought. About the middle
removing also any flowers as they ap- I of July they are potted in small thirty-
pear. Towards the latter end of May ! two-sized pots, two plants in a pot,
or beginning of June, whenever dull or : taking the greatest care that neither
rainy weather may occur, remove them i roots nor leaves are damaged in the
carefully into forty-eight-sized pots. It ' operation, and an important part of it
is optional with the grower, whether j is to press the earth firmly about them ;
one, two, or three plants are put in one ' the soil used is two parts loam to one
pot, accordingto his object being quality I of well-rotted dung. Beds which will
or quantity; but we, desiring fine fruit; hold five or six rows of pots are then
in preference to number, only place one formed in the following manner : — level
of the strongest or two of the weaker the surface of the ground, and spread
in one pot, using enriched melon soil upon it a layer of coal ashes; above
or turfy loam. Place them, when pot- which must be nailed firmly slabs, or
ted, in a situation where they can be any rough boards, as wide as the-depth
readily shaded for a short time, and ' of the pots, which are then to be plunged
receive regular supplies of water if | to the rim in spent bark or ashes. All
necessary. About the latter end of i that they will here require is attention to

July, or early in August, these pots
will be filled with roots, when the
plants must be repotted into flat thirty-
two-sized pots, usually termed straw- i
berry pots, and at this time plunged in |
old tan or coal ashes. The best man- !

watering when necessary, and a slight
protection with fern, or other light cover-
ing, during severe frosty weather. I al-
ways preserve from 300 to 400 of the
latest forced plants of the above descrip-
tion, and after having carefully reduced

ner of plunging them we find to be, ! their balls, repot them in large thirty-

forming beds wide enough to contain
five rows of pots, when plunged, upon
a hard or gravelly surface, to prevent
them rooting through, the sides sup-
ported by slabs of the same width as the
depth of the pots, and filling them up
with old tan or ashes; the plants re-
main here until wanted to take in, and
are easily protected from severe frosts.
It will be found an excellent plan to
preserve the latest forced plants, which
are not much exhausted, for forcing the
first the next season ; these, from their
long period of rest, and well-ripened
buds, are predisposed to break earlier
and stronger than the others ; some of
them, if the autumn is moist, will be
excited, and produce flowers, which

two-sized pots in July, treating them
afterwards precisely as the others. I
find these by having their buds formed
early (through the slight forcing they
have received), and becoming very
strong, are admirably adapted for the
first crop, and always repay me for the
extra trouble. Begin forcing with a
temperature of 40*^, increasing to 50°
when in bloom, and to 55^ when ripen-
ing."— Gard. Chron.

Mr. Brown, gardener to Lord South-
ampton, at Whittlebury Lodge, near
Towcester, says, that " Mr. Paxton's
method of preparing strawberry plants
for forcing is a good one where time
and trouble are of no consequence ; but
for the last fifteen years he has adopted

S T R

571

S T R

a plan which answers well, and by of the strawberry, plant both in spring

which good strong plants are procured and early in autumn ; their method is

in one^month from the present year's to plant two rows about twelve inches

runners. apart, and the plants twelve inches from

" The compost used is good strong each other in the rows; between every

loam, well mixed with rotten dung from two rows as describetl, they leave spaces

the hot-bed linings; twenty-four-sized of two feet, which are, by the growth of

pots are the best for Keene's Seedlings, the vines, reduced to one foot, thus

and thirty-twos for Grove End Scarlets, making each bed two feet wide with an

Thelattervariety answers for early fore- alley of twelve inches between them;

ing better than' any other sort, when when planted in the spring they usually

strawberries are wanted by the end of raise some dwarf crop on the same

>Iarch. ground, but that had better be omitted

"Having filled the pots with the com- — keeping the soil cultivated and top-
post, thev are removed at once to the dressed with some well-rotted manure,
strawberry quarters, and arranged on In the autumn, they spread on the sur-

each side of the rows, amongst the run
ners. The middle of July, when the
plants are emitting roots, is the proper
time to begin the operation of layering;
having previously prepared a quantity
of pegs, the runners that are rooted into
the ground are carefully removed, and
their roots inserted in the pots, and peg

face, both beds and alleys, a good coat
of coarse manure, such as will lie light-
ly, the loose portion of which may be
raked off in the spring, when the alleys
are dug, and covered with straw, to ex-
clude draught and screen the trusses of
fruit on the edge of the bed from con-
tact with the earth. Exhausted tanner's

ged down. Put three plants into the bark, or saw-dust scattered among the
twenty-four pots, and one in the thirty- plants, is highly serviceable in protect-

twos ; they immediately begin growing,
being supported by the mother plant

ing the fruit from grit.

" Varieties. Hudson or Scarlet.^

and will only require occasional water- This variety is grown almost exclu

ing in dry weather.

sively for the supply of the Philadelphia

When the plants are well rooted, market; it appears to be distinct from
which is in about one month, detach what is known as the old Hudson, in
them from the old plants, and remove New York, which Downing describes as

to their winter quarters.

having a neck, whereas the Philadelphia

Beds are prepared for them with a Hudson has none, (unless occasionally

bottom of coal ashes, and they are spontaneous seedlings are found with

plunged in old tan; each bed surrounded elongated crowns.) It is undoubtedly

with a stratum of coal ashes six inches one of the best, though from want of

wide, and as high as the top of the pots, skill in its culture it is frequently unfruit-

which prevents worms from working ful. The fruitful and barren flowers are

amongst them." — Gard. Chron. on separate plants, and as the barren are

Thus far we have copied the English most vigorous, they are liable to take

edition of this work. The American nearly exclusive possession; in such

reader, t^hough he will find that which cases the inevitable result is, but little

will instruct in the culture of this de- fruit is obtained. The proper method

licious fruit, will perceive there is too is to carefully cull them when in flower,

much detail and tedious labour for his (the experienced can detect them by the

practice.

foliage as well as flowers,) exterminating

Many of the varieties named in the the larger portion of the male or stami-
preceding article are comparatively un- niferous plants, as one in ten suffices to
known in this country, and others have impregnate the pistiliferous or fruit-
been tested, and found wanting. Our, bearing flowers. Much has been said
American Seedlings have, on the whole, on this subject, and most positive deni-
given most satisfaction, and are most als of the fact here stated have been
reliable, whilst the eff'orts now being made, but after all it is incontrovertible,
made to produce varieties promise, from and remains a ' fixed fact.' Our limits
the success already attained, to give all will not admit of embarking further in
that could be desired. i the controversy, which has been prac-

" The market gardeners around Phi- 1 tically settled around Philadelphia for
ladelphia, who are successful cultivators [ fifty years, by the German truck women.

STR

572

STR

who may be seen in the spring, with
their iinsey petticoats and short-gowns,
busily engaged plucking out the ' he
plants,' as they term them.

" In France the Chili strawberry is
highly esteemed, but as it requires for-
eign fertilization, they mix with it other
varieties, and adopt artificial methods
of impregnation. Duchesne has suc-
ceeded by cutting off the half-closed, or
rather half-opened umbils of staminife-
rous flowers, with foot-stalks from one
to three inches long, which being placed
in phials filled with water, were dis-

the weather, in which the scanty pollen
is all available, and also to impregnation
from seedlings, which are, more or less,
in all beds of one year's standing, and
some of w hich, proceeding from the old
Hovey, have strong erect stamens, not
unlike the Hudson males, with this dif-
ference, however, the pistil is fruitful
and the fruit perfect.

"Ross's Phcenix. — This variety has
been much praised in New York. It was
produced by Mr. Alexander Ross, of
Hudson, in that state, and from its
character for hardiness and product (if

tributed among the Chili plants; the next I true), would speedily attain popularity
day the blossoms opened and the im- i and general culture — unfortunately for
pregnation was successfully completed. ' its reputation it has suffered greatly by

"Many experiments with like re-
sults, have been practised by others, and
what in some of the periodicals is called
'Longworth's theory,' is nothing more
than that of the Philadelphia truck-wo-
men, from one of whom that gentleman,
as he says, received the hint.

" Methven Scarlet, also termed
Keene's seedling (erroneously), is a very
large variety, sometimes exceeding five
inches in circumference; it is but indif-
ferently flavoured, but much admired
for preserving. The flowers of this va-
riety are pistilate (female), though sta-
mens are also present, generally in an
imperfect state, hence it fruits more
surely in company with those which have
strong staminate flowers, as for instance
the Iowa, or the males of the Hudson.

" HovEY's Seedling (Fig. 164) was
raised from the seed by the Messrs.
Hovey, of Boston, some years since,
and is one of the most desirable straw-
berries among us. It is of vigorous
growth, withstands the winter equal
to any other, produces fruit of an
enormous size, and exquisite flavour;
too much cannot be said in its praise.
Mode of cultivation same as others; it
does not, however, always produce

the past season's drought, whilst other
varieties have sustained themselves un-
injured. We must have further confir-
mation of its value, before recommend-
ing it for enlarged culture.

"Gushing. — (Fig. 165.) This is one of
a multitude of seedling strawberries,
raised by that indefatigable amateur cul-
tivator. Dr. Wm. C. Brinckle, of Phi-
ladelphia, to whom we are indebted for
the drawing. Fig. 165, and many other
favours. He thus describes it in an arti-
cle communicated to the Farmers' Cabi-
net, vol. xi.. No. 1.

" ' Cushing, so named as a compli-
ment to J. P. Cushing, Esq., of Boston,
to whom I am under a thousand obliga-
tions— produced from a seed of a berry
of No, 72, A., [Dr. B.'s private cata-
logue,] the anthers not having been
extracted; planted May 31st, 1845;
fruited in 1846, one year from the seed ;
flower large, with perfect anthers; leaf
large and roundish, like that of Keene's
Seedling and Ross's Phcenix ; differing,
however, from these two varieties, in
having a hairy leaf stem, and when full
grown, the leaf is slightly twisted ; fruit
very large, round, some of the berries
with a short neck, light scarlet colour;

fruit when planted alone, from a defi- j seed inserted in slight depressions; fine
ciency of pollen in the anthers, and in an flavour, and very productive. This plant
unfavourable state of the weather, fails was exhibited at one of the meetings of
to produce fruit at all : the better plan,! the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society
therefore, is to mix with it some other i this summer, with 26 fine berries on it,
variety, as directed for the Methven | several of them four and aquarter inches
scarlet, or grow others in immediate i in circumference. Not long since, Mr.
contiguity, where the flies and air can i Longworth, of Cincinnati, offered one
affect the impregnation. It is true, fine ; hundred dollars for a strawberry with
crops from this variety are sometimes | perfect anthers that will bear a full crop
produced where no other variety is [ of fruit as large as Hovey's Seedling,
within a considerable distance, but it is , Such a strawberry is, I think, the Cush-
attributable to most favourable states of | ing.'

573

* ■

Fig. 164.— (P. 572.)

p|^,;:::^-0 0^^^"

574

r^

S T R

575

sue

" If Dr. Brinckle's opinion should be
coiitirmed by further observation, he
will have contributed an invaluable va-
riety of this delicious fruit." — Rural
Register.
STRAWBERRY BLITE. Blitum.

STRAWBERRY SPINACH. Blitum.

STRAWBERRY TREE. Arbutus.

STRELITZIA. Eight species. Stove
herbaceous perennials. Suckers. Turfy
loam.

STREPTANTHERA. Two species.
Green-house bulbous perennials. Off-
sets. Loam and peat.

STREPTANTHUS. Two species.
Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

STREPTIUM asperum. Stove herb-
aceous perennial. Cuttings. Loam and
peat.

STREPTOCARPUS rexii. Stove
herbaceous perennial. Division. Rich
soil and vegetable mould.

STREPTOPUS. Eive species. Herb-
aceous perennials; all hardy except S.
simplex, which belongs to the green-
house. Seeds or division. Light soil.
STROBILANTHES Sabiniaria. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light rich
soil.

STROPANTHUS. Three species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. San-
dy loam and peat.

STRIMARLA. Ten species. Green-
house bulbous perennials. Offsets. San-
dy loam.

STRUTHIOLA. Fifteen species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Sandy
peat.

STRUTHIOPTERIS. Two species.
Ferns. Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Division. Loam and peat.

STRYCHNOS. Six species. Stove
evergreen trees. S. colubrina is a
climber. Half-ripe cuttini^s and seeds.
Loam and sandy peat. I^ux vomica is
one of the species.

STYLIDIUM. Nine species. Green-
house herbaceous perennials or ever-
green shrubs. The latter increases by
cuttings, a few of the herbaceous by
division, but chiefly by seeds. Sandy
loam and peat suit them all.

STYPANDRA. Five species. Green-

deciduous shrubs. S. officinale produces
the balsam of storax. Layers. Light
soil.

SUCCORY, CHICORY, or WILD
ENDIVE. Cichorium iiitybus. Although
this hardy perennial plant is much used
on the Continent in salads, yet it has
never been employed to any extent for
that purpose in Britain.

Soil and Situation. — Like endive, for
the main crops it requires a rich light
soil, and for the earlier sowings a moist-
er one, in every instance having an open
situation allotted to it.

Solving must be annually; for, al-
though it is a perennial , yet, after being
cut from two or three times, the radical
leaves become bitter and worthless.
INIr. Oldaker says, it should be sown at
the end of June, or early in July ; but
L'Quintinye recommends it to be per-
formed in the beginning of March; and
it may be performed, for successive
crops, between the two periods men-
tioned by the above writers, in the same
manner as endive, and also like that
salad herb in small portions at a time,
the earliest sowings being very liable to
run to seed. Sow moderately thick, in
the same manner as endive, the direc-
tions for cultivating which are equally
applicable in every other particular.

Cultivation. — When the plants begin
to cover the ground, they are thinned to
nine inches apart ; and those removed
planted out at similar distances. They
require to be kept very clear of weeds ;
and if the leaves grow very luxuriant,
and shade the roots much, they must
be cutoff within an inch of the ground.
Those grown from sowings antecedent
to June, when of nearly full growth,
which they arrive at in about four
months from the insertion of the seed,
must have all their leaves trimmed
away, so as not to injure their hearts,
and then covered over thick with sand,
ashes, or long litier. By this treatment,
those fresh leaves which are produced
become etiolated and crisp, losing their
bitterness. Those wliich arise from the
sowings of June and July, must, at the
end of September, or early in October,

house herbaceous perennials. S./ru- be raised, and planted very close, by the

tescens an evergreen shrub.
Sandy loam and peat.

Division.

dibble, in pots or boxes, having their
leaves trimmed as before directed, and

STYPHELIA. Eight species. Green- their roots shortened previous to plant-

house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Sandy peat and sandy loam.

ing. Water must be given moderately
in dry weather, until they are establish-

STYRAX. Four species. Hardy ed, and shelter, if frosts occur, by a

sue

576

sue

light covering of litter. Wlicn well
rooted they may be removed into the
cellar, or other place, where the light
can be completely excluded from them,
to blanch for use as wanted, which
change will be effected in six or seven
days. Succory will bear a temperature
of GO', but thrives better in a rather
lower one.

If the roots are vigorous, they will
bear cutting from two or three times,
after winch they are unproductive.

To obtain Seed, a few plants must
be left in the open ground of the June
sowing ; they bear the severity of win-
ter without protection, and shoot up in
the sprinrr, running to seed about May.

SUCCOVVIA halearica. Hardy an-
nual. Seeds. Light soil.

SUCCULENT PLANTS are so cha-
racterized on account of their thick juicy
leaves. " They are formed to exist,"
says that excellent botanist and horti-
culturist, Mr. Fortune, now traveling
for the London Horticultural Society,
" in countries and situations where they
are often exposed to intense light and
dryness; their skins are thick; they
have few evaporating pores ; and they
have, likewise, few roots to gorge their
tissue with food during the rainy season.
Therefore, we find the dry sandy plains
of the Cape abounding in aloes and
mesembryanthemums ; and the bare
volcanic rocks of Mount Etna covered,
in many places, with the common prick-
ly pear. In Mexico, also, and in many
other parts of Central and South Ame-
rica, the extensive race of cacti, with
their curious unvegetable-like forms,
are at home, and flourish even in those
dry and parched seasons when the
whole face of nature besides seems
withered and destroyed. I wish particu-
larly to draw attention to the natural
circumstancog in which these plants
are found ; because, if these are once
known, they are sure and certain guides
in cultivation.

" To be grown well, the whole race
of what are called succulent plants re-
quire to be kept in the lightest possible
situation in the green-house. It is true
they may be grown in heavy-shaded
green-houses, but their leaves will ne-
ver acquire that beautiful colour which
is seen in light situations, nor will they
flower so freely. Water should be
given to the slow-growing kinds at all
times with a judicious hand, but par-

ticularly during winter, as more plants
are killed by over-watering, than by
any other cause. At this time, once in
ten days or a fortnight will generally
be found sufficient; but as this depends
upon the situation and the weather,
much must be left to the good sense of
those who attend them. Those kinds
which are more luxuriant in growth,
and not so succulent, require more
water, and are not so easily injured by
it. By far the greatest number succeed
perfectly, where the temperature Ls
merely high enough to exclude frost,
that is, anywhere bet%veen thirty-five
and forty-five degrees, as may be most
agreeable to the cultivator.

" Succulents are generally easily
multiplied, either by seeds or cuttings.
If the cutting is very soft, and liable to
damp, it ought to be dried a little be-
fore it is put into the sand. Sometimes
a little quicklime is useful for prevent-
ing decay, and can be either used for
the base of the cutting, or to any part
of the plant from which a damping
piece has been removed." — Gardeners'
Chron.

SUCKERS, says Dr. Lindley, in his
Theory of Horticulture, " are branches
naturally thrown up by a plant from its
base, when the onward current of
growth of the stem is stopped. Every
stem, even the oldest, must have been
once covered with leaves ; each leaf
had a bud in its axil ; but of those buds,
few are developed as branches, and
the remainder remain latent, or perish.
When the onward growth of a plant is
arrested, the sap is driven to find new
outlets, and then latent buds are very
likely to be developed ; in fact, when
the whole plant is young, they must
necessarily shoot forth under fitting
circumstances; the well-known effect
of cutting down a tree is an exemplifi-
cation of this. Such branches, if they
proceed from under ground, frequently
form roots at their base, when they are
employed as a means of propagation ;
I and in the case of the pine-apple they
' are made use of for the same purpose,
although they do not emit roots till
they are separated from the parent.
Gardeners usually satisfy themselves
with takmg from their pine-apple plants
such suckers as are produced in con-
sequence of the stoppage of onward
growth by the formation of the fruits ;
I but these are few in number, and not

SU F

577

S W L

at all what the plant is capable of kind of grain, like that of most others,
yielding. Instead of throwing away the varies considerably, according to the
"stump" of the pine-apple, it should state of the soil, climate and the cnl-
be placed in a damp pit, and exposed tivation that is employed; but the
to a bottom heat of 90", or thereabouts, average quantity of seed is about filty
when every one of the latent eyes will bushels per acre. This will produce
spring forth, and a crop of young plants fifty gallons of oil, and of oil-cake 1,500
be the result." pounds. ']"lie stalks, when burnt for

Taking up or transplanting stickers alkali, give ten hundred weight of po-
may be performed almost at any time, tash.

in open weather, from October to: SUNFLOWER. Actinotus Helianthi.
March, being careful to dig them up j SUN ROSK. Heliantheinam.
from the mother plant with as much SURFACE GRUBS, or caterpillars,
root as possible, and cutting off any j are the larvic of several species of
thick knobbed part of the old root that Noctua, or Night Moths. Gardeners
may adhere to the bottom, leaving only thus name them because they attack the
the fibres arising from the young wood, roots of the turnip, mangold wurtzcl,
Though it is probable some will appear &c., just at the surface of the soil,
with hardly any fibres, they will be dis- 1 SUTHERLANDIA/rw/cscc/iS. Half-

posed to produce them after removal.

SUFFOCATION is a term employed
by Keith and others to describe any
stopping of the transpiratory organs of
plants, whether it arises from extrava-
sated sap, mosses, fungi, or even from
a deficient supply oPsap.

SUGAR RAKERS' REFUSE. See
Animal Matters.

SUMACH. Rhus.

SUNFLOWER. Helianthus.

H. anniius. Annual Sunflower.

hardy evergreen shrub. Seeds or young
cuttings. Peat and loam.

SUWARROW NUT. Caryocar.

SWAINSONIA. Three species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
cuttings or seeds. Sandy loam and peat.

SWALLOW WORT. Asclepias.

SWAMP LOCUST TREE. Gledit-
schia monosperma.

SWAMP POST. Qtiercus lyrata.

SWARTZIA. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings with the

Soil and Situation. — A light rich soil, ! leaves on. Sandy loam and peat,
and as unshadowed by trees as possible, { SWEDISH BEAM TREE. Py7-us
suits it best. It is now much cultivated intermedia.

for its oil, and as a food for cattle and , SWEDISH TURNIP. Brassica cam-
poultry. The following directions for pestris ; va.r. rittabaga.
its culture on a large scale, are applica- : SWEEPING. See Broom. It is
ble on a reduced extent for the gar- j best done in calm weather, and early,
den : — [ whilst the dew is strong enough to al-

The earlier the seed can be got into lay the dust and keep the light refuse
the ground the better, say the beginning from blowing about,
of April, as the crop will be ready to | SWEET BAY. Lauriis nobilis.
harvest the latter part of August, which SWEET BRIAR. Rosa rubiginosa.
will be of the greatest importance to It is of the easiest propagation in any
growers. The necessary (]uantity of common garden soil. Cuttings, suck-
seed required for an acre depends upon ers, ai\d seed may be inditferently em-
the conditions of the soil, and varies ployed.

from four pounds to five pounds ; but, ; " To form a hedge of it sow the heps
of course, it is advisable to sow a little in the autumn as soon as ripe, or which
more than is actually wanted, to pro- | is better, in the month of J\Iarch, hav-
vide against accidents. The seed should ing kept them in the meanwhile mixed
be drilled into the ground, and the dis- with sand. But it is far more conveni-
tance from row to row eighteen inches; ' ent to buy sweet briar ' layers,' (young
the plants to be thinned out to thirty plants.) from the nurseryman, and to
inches from plant to ])lant, and the plant them a foot apart early in the
number of plants at this distance would month of November. Let them grow
be about 14,500 per acre ; at eighteen as they like for the first year, and cut
inches from plant to plant, 25,000 per them down to the ground the second;
acre ; and at twelve inches from plant thoy will then spring up and require no
to plant, 3'2,000. The produce of this more care than occasional trimming
37

S WE

57S

S WI

with the pruning-knife or shears, so as : light loam on a dry subsoil. Leaf-mould
to keep the hedge in shape. When it ! and liquid manure the best additions

gets naked at the bottom it must be
again cut down." — Gard. Chron.

SWEET CALABASH. Fassiftora
maliformis.

SWEET CICELY. See Chervil.

SWEETIA. Three species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Cuttings or seeds.
Loam and sand.

SWEET MAR.TORAM. Origanum
majorana.

SWEET MAUDLIN. Achillea age-
ratum.

SWEET PEA. Lathyrus odoratus.

SWEET POTATOE. Batata.

SWEET SOP. Anona squamosa.

SWEET SULTAN. Centaurea mos-
chata.

SWEET WILLIAM. Dianthus har-
batus.

Varieties. — Narrow-leaved kinds :
Deep Red; Pale Red; Pale Red and
Flesh-coloured; Purplish, white-eyed;
Snow White; White and Flesh-colour-
ed ; White and Purple ; White Spotted ;
Red flowers and white borders, called
Painted Lady Sweet-William, and many
other intermediate shades of colours

Propagation. — They are propagated
by seed, layers, and slips.

By Seed. — March and April is the
season for sowing ; sow it in a bed or
border of light earth broadcast, and
rake it in. In a fortnight the plants
will come up. In June or July trans-
plant into nursery beds of common
earth, in rows six or eight inches dis-
tant, to remain until autumn or spring
following, then to be taken up and
planted in the places where they are to
flower.

By Layers. — June and July is the
proper season, and the same method is
to be observed in every respect as for
the Carnation. This is the only me-
thod of propagation to continue the
same double-flowered varieties. Being
layered, give frequent waterings in dry
weather, and they will be well rooted
in six or seven weeks, then to be sepa-
rated from the old plant, and removed
to a bed of light soil; and in October
some of them should be potted to move
to occasional shelter from frost, for
although the doubles are almost as

and variegations, and which frequently ' hardy as the single, yet being more
vary in the flowers of the same aggre- i choice, it is necessary always to have
gate; there are also single and double j some that may have protection in severe
flowers of each variety. Among the winters, the same as for choice Carna-
doubles of this class of narrow leaves, tions.

is that sort called the Mule, having a ' By Slips. — July is the best month for
bright red double flower in smallish ag- ' slipping ; observing, if it is to be per-
gregates, said to have been accidentally formed upon the year-old plants, they
produced from the seed of a Carnation must be slipped quite down to the

impregnated by the Sweet-William.
Broad-leaved kinds: — Tall deep red;

roots, so as to have fibres to each slip ;
plant them at once where they are to

Tall flesh-coloured; Pure White; White ' flower, but these never make such good
dotted; Striped leaves and red flowers; | plants as seedlings and layers, nor do
Large double rose-coloured; Sweet j they generally flower so strongly.

scented; Large double deep purplish
burster; Double variegated. All the
varieties, about forty in number, are
hardy herbaceous evergreen perennials,
rising the first year with a large bushy
tuft of leafy shoots, continuing green

Saving Seed. — " The flowers which
have the most beautiful colours, should,
when in full bloom, be marked from
which to have seed; if any ordinary
sorts grow near them, let them be re-
moved to prevent hybridizing. Let the

the year round, and the second year branches of seed be gathered in dry
shooting up flower-stems, producing weather, and after lying a few days in
flowers in June and July, succeeded by the sun be beaten out and stored till
abundance of seed in autumn. The '■ spring." — Abercrombie.
plants, although usually of several [ SWIETENIA. Two species. Stove
years' duration, yet, after the first year | evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings with
of flowering, the shoots generally be- the leaves on. Loam and sand,
come long, straggling, and of dwindling j SYMPHIANDRA pendida. Hardy
growth, so that a supply should be raised biennial. Seeds. Common soil,
every year from seed or layers. SYMPIIORICARPUS. St. Peter's

Soil. — The best is a moderately rich : Wort. Three species. Hardy decidu-

S YM

579

TAN

ous trees. Cuttings or suckers. Com- operator should stand at some distance

mon soil. from the plants, so that the water may

SYMPHYTUM. Eip;ht species, spread and tali upon them like a shower.

Hardy herbaceous or tuberous-rooted But it" aphides have to be destroyed he

perennials. Division. Off-sets. Any
soil suits them.

SYMl'IKZIA capitellata. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Young cut-
tings. Turty peat and sand.

S Y M P L O C O S . Three species.

may be closer to the plants, and drive
forth the water with greater force.

SYZYGIUM. Three species. Stove
evergreen trees or shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandv peat.

TABERN.EMONTANA. Fifteen

Green-house evergreen shrubs, or stove species. Stove evergreen shrubs and
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam, trees. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand,
peat and sand. ! TACCA. Six species. Stove bulbous

SYXCHRONIC.\L TIMES are va- perennials. Division. Loam, peat, and
lidly observed for the performance of sand.

gardening operations. More than one
botanist has observed that if the time
of the foliation and blossoming of trees
and herbs, and the days on which the
seed is sown, flowers, and ripens, were
noted, and if the observer continued
these observations for many years, there
can be no doubt but that we might find
some rule from which we might con-
clude at what time grains and culinary
plants, according to the nature of each
8oil, ought to be sown ; nor should we

TACHLV. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat, sand,
and loam.

TACHIGALLl bijvga. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Light loam.

TACSOXL\.. Two species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

T.^RRITIS. Three species. Ferns.
Stove evergreen creepers. Division or
seeds. Sandy loam and peat.

TAGETES. Fifteen species. Hardy

be at a loss to guess at the approach of annuals, except T.^orirfa and T.lucula,
winter; nor ignorant whether we ought the first a half-hardy, the second a

to make our autumn sowing later or
earlier.

M. Barck would derive his intima-
tions from the vegetable tribes alone,

rcen-house herbaceous perennial. The
annuals increase by seed, the others by
cuttings or division. Light rich soil.
TALAUMA. Three species. Stove

but, I think, the other kingdoms of | evergreen shrubs. Layers or inarching

organic nature might be included; as
the appearances of certain migratory
birds, and the birth of certain insects.
For example, in the east of England, it
is a common saying among gardeners,
confirmed by practice — ''When you
have seen two swallows together, sow
kidney beans." '

Mr. Stillingfleet, one of the most
careful of Nature's observers, says, that
in his time "the prudent gardener never

on Magnolia obovata, and ripe cuttings
with the leaves on will root, but not
easily. Loam, peat, and sand.

T XLIVAIA hengalensis. Palm. Seeds.
Turfy loam and sand.

TALIRIUM. Seven species. Stove
and green-house evergreen shrubs and
herbaceous perennials. Cuttings. Loam,
peat, and sand. T. rejlexum, a stove
biennial, increases by seeds.

TALISLA. guianensis. Stove ever-

ventured to put his house-plants out green shrub. Large cuttings with the

until the mulberry leaf was of a certain
growth." — Gard. Aim.

SYNN'ETLA.. Three species. Green-
house bulbous perennials. Offsets.
Sandy peat and loam.

SYRL\G.\. Lilac. Five species and
many varieties. Hardy deciduous
shrubs. Seeds, layers, or suckers.
Common soil.

SYRINGK. This is a most useful
implement for impelling water over
plants in pots, wall-trees, &c. Read's
syrmges are excellent. When the ob-
ject is merely to refresh the plants, the

leaves on. Turfv loam and peat.
I TALLIES, iieo Lahda.
I TAMARINDUS. Tamarind. Two
' species. Stove evergreen trees. Seeds

and cuttings. Sandv loam and peat.
j TAMARIX. Three species. Stove

evergreen shrubs or trees, except T.
ignllica, which is a hardy deciduous
I shrub. Cuttings. Any soil suits tlicni.
] ALinna is produced from a variety of

T. gallic ia.
; TAMONEA. Two species. Stove

biennials. Seeds. Sandy soil.
I TAN. See Bark.

TAN

580

TAX

TANACETUM. Tansy. Nine
species. Hardy or green-house herba-
ceous perennials. Tlie hardy kinds
increase by division, t)ie green-house
by cuttings. Light rich soil. T. globu-
^//"erum a hardy annual. Seeds. Cora-
mon soil.

TANGIER PEA. Lathyrus tingi-
tanus.

TANK SYSTEM. See Stove, Hot
Water, and Rendle.

TANSY. Tanacetum vulgare.

Varieties. — The Curled or Double
Tansy, the one chiefly grown for culi-
nary purposes ; the Variegated ; and
the Common or Plain. This last is but
of little worth, except for medicinal
preparations.

Soil and Situation. — A light, dry, and
rather poor soil, in an open exposure,
is best suited to it, as in such it is the
most hardy and aromatic.

Planting. — It is propagated by rooted
slips, or divisions of its fibrous creeping
root, planted from the close of Febru-
ary until that of May, as well as during
the autumn. Established plants may
be moved at any period of the year.
Insert in rows twelve inches apart each
■way ; a gentle watering being given, if
tlie season is not showery. As the
roots spread rapidly, plants will soon
make liieir appearance over a large
space of ground if left undisturbed ; to
prevent it, a path should be left entirely
round the bed, and often dug up to keep
them within bounds. The plants run
up to seed during summer, but the
stalks must be constantly removed, to
encourage the production of young
leaves. Weeds should be extirpated,
and the decayed stalks cleared away in j
autumn, at the same time a little fresh
mould being scattered over the bed. I

Forcing. — If required during the |
winter and early spring, old undivided i
roots must be placed in a moderate !
Iiot-bed once a month, from the middle

Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.

Light rich soil.

TARRAGON. Artemisia dracuncu-
lus. Use it in salads to correct the
coldness of the other herbs ; and its
leaves are likewise excellent when
pickled.

Soil and Situation. — It will flourisli
in any that are poor and bleak. Indeed,
a poor dry earth is essential to produce
it in perfection as to flavour, and hardy.

Propagation by parting the roots,
slips, and cuttings; as also by seed to
be sown in the spring, but this mode is
attended with much trouble. To have
green Tarragon during the winter and
spring, strong-rooted plants must be
planted, small portions at a time, once
or twice a month, from the close of
October to the end of January. For the
main crop, it may be planted any time
from the end of February until the con-
clusion of May ; and by cuttings of the
young stalks, from the close of June
until the same period of August; this
last mode is not often adopted, on ac-
count of the uncertainty attending the
rooting of the cuttings.

Cultivation. — The plants must be at
least ten inches apart; and if dry
weather, especially in the summer
months, water must be given regularly
every evening until they are rooted.
They soon establish themselves, and
may be gathered from the same year.
As they run up, if seed is not required,
the stems should be cut down, which
causes them to shoot afresh. The only
additional cultivation required is to
keep them free from weeds.

At the end of autumn, if some estab-
lished plants are set beneath a south
fence, they will often afford leaves
throughout the winter, or, at all events,
come early in the spring. Some of the
leaves should be gathered in the sum-
mer, and dried for winter's use.

To obtain Seed, it is only necessary to
allow it to run up without molestation.

of November to the close of February. | It flowers about July, and when the

They may be planted in the earth of the
bed, in pots, and plunged in a similar
situation, or placed round the edges of
the bark pits in a hot-house. A frame
IS not absolutely necessary, as a cover-
ing of mats supported on hoops, afforded
during frost, at night, and in very in-
clement weather, will answer nearly as
•well. 1

TARCHONANTHUS. Two species.'

seed is ripe, in early autumn, must be
cut, and completely dried before it is
beaten out.

TASMANNIA aromatica. Green-
house shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

TAVERNIER A. Two species. Green-
house evergreens; one a trailer, the
othera shrub. Seeds. Sandy loam.

TAXODIUM capense. Green-house

TAX

581

TEN

evergreen shrub; and T. di'shVftum Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
(Deciduous Cypress), and its varieties, i cuttings. Sandy loam and peat,
hardy deciduous trees. Seeds, layers, j TENTHREDO. Saw-Hy. T. moris,
orcuttinjrs with the leaves on, placed in ' Plum Saw-fly, attacks the green-gage,
water. Rich moist soil. | and other plums, when about the size

TAXUS. Yew Tree. Five species. ! of peas. It pierces them, causing their
Evergreen shrubs and trees, all hardy fall, to deposit its eggs in their pulp,
except T. nucifera, which belongs to M. Kollar gives these correct particu-
the green-house. They increase chiefly lars of this insect : —

by seeds, but may also increase by cut-
tings. Moist soil. See Coniferte.
TEA-TREE. Thea.

At a distance it resembles a small
house-fly ; but it has four wings, where-
as the house-fly has only two. The

TECOMA. Fifteen species. Stove | head and body are completely black.

evergreen shrubs and trees. Green
house, hardy, and half-hardy evergreen
and deciduous climbers. Cuttings and
layers. Peat and loam, or common
soil, and a warm situation.

TEEDIA. Two species. Green-
house biennials. Cuttings or seeds.
Light rich soil.

TEESDALIA. Two species. Har-
dy annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

TELEKIA speciosa. Hardy herba-
ceous perennial. Division. Common
soil.

T E L L I M A grandiflora. Hardy
herbaceous perennial. Division. Peaty
soil.

TELOPEA speciosissima. Warratah.

and the feet of a reddish yellow.

" It lays its eggs in the notched part
of the calyx of the flowers, cuts in
obliquely with its saws, without com-
pletely piercing it through, and intro-
duces the egg into the deepest part, so
that, when it flies away, nothing is seen
on the exterior but two very small
brown spots.

" The egg is very small, greenish-
white, and transparent. It is hatched
in the course of a few days, and pro-
duces a delicate whitish larva, with a
dark-brown head, six pairs of middle
feet, three pairs of fore feet, and one
pair of anal feet."

T. hamorrhoidalis, Pear Saw-fly, re-

^ , , - I sembles the former, but is rather lamer.

Green-house evergreen tree. Lavers i j i n i . ■ rr,,

„„. ■ w- c J i ■' J and has more yellow about it. The

and also cuttings. Sandy loam and „ .u •. i . . j .1

, ,1 ,, ° ■^ luoiii auu gjjj^g authority last quoted says that it

heath mould. ,, •',, , ,' . ,, ■' ,.

I '< appears usually late in Mav, some ol

TE.MPERATURE is the most im- them only in June, if the warm spring
portant circumstance connected with 1 weather sets in laie. The foinale lays
the cultivation of plants ; for upon its from forty to sixty eggs, and almost
proper regulation and just accommoda- j always on the under side of the leaf,
tion to the intensity of light depend, in ■ The caterpillar, which is hatched in a
the chiet degree, whether a plant is i few days, at first is of a whitish yellow,
healthy and capable of performing its 1 but becomes darker every day. As soon
functions. Every seed has its appro- 1 as it is exposed to the light, it spins a
priatc temperature for germinating (see > web over itself, the threads of which
Germination) ; every root has a temper- . proceed from its mouth. The caterpil-
ature in which it imbibes food most ' lar never appears out of this web ; and
favourably (see Bottom-heat) ; and every ; when it has partly eaten a leaf, it spins
leat has a temperature in which it re- 1 itself a web on another, and always ia
spires most vigorously (see Leaves and company with the other caterpillars. It
^lght Temperature). j has a black head, and, immediately un-

TEMPLES dedicated to some deity 1 der the throat, two black dots: the other
of the heathen mythology, as to Pan in I parts of the body are ochre-colored and
a grove, or to Flora among bright sun- i transparent, without hairs." — Kollar.
ny parterres, arc not inappropriate, if T. difformis. Antler Rose Saw-fly.
the extent of the grounds and the ex- Its caterpillar feeds on the leaves of
penditure on their management allow rose-trees; and they are thus described
them to be of that size, and of that cor- i by Mr. Curtis : —

rectness of style, which can alone give ! " They are nearly cylindrical, taper-
the classic air and dignity which are ' ing a little to the tail. They are bright
their only sources of pleasure. green, and covered with short upright

TEMPLETONIA. Two species, j hairs, with a darker line down the back ,

TEN

582

TEN

and one of a deeper tint down each
side. Having arrived at their full
growth, they spin a web either between
the contiguous leaves, or in a fold, by
drawing the sides of a leaf slightly to-
gether ; but sometimes it is attached to
the stem only at a fork of the branches.
In this web they form a yellowish-white
cocoon, somewhat oval. In these co-
coons the green larva? rest a short time,
losing, it is said, their fourteen false
legs, and eventually changing to a pupa.
The flies are hatched in twelve or thir-
teen days. The perfect insect is found
from the end of May to the middle of
August.

" It would not, perhaps, be an easy
matter to get rid of these troublesome
caterpillars, except by hand-picking and
shaking the branches over a cloth ; lor,
as they keep on the under surface of
the leaves, no application except fumi-
['ating with sulphur would fairly reach
them. It is possible that sprinkling
liellebore powder over the leaves would
annoy them.'" — Gard. Citron.

T.populi, Peach, or Poplar Saw-fly,
also resembles the first-named, and M.
Kollar says that, —

"As soon as the first leaves of the
stone-fruits are unfolded in spring, this
saw-fly visits them, and attacks the
peach, apricot, and plum trees. They
choose days that are particularly still
and warm, and lay their eggs on a leaf
in rows, one after another, from thirty
to forty in number, not all at once, but
often disburden themselves of their eggs
at different times. They are longish,
cylindrical, and of a light yellow color.

" If the weather is favorable the eggs
are hatched in a few days, and a white-
greenish grub is produced from them.
They no sooner begin to move than
they surround themselves with a web;
thus surrounded they roam from one
leaf to another, from which they select
the best parts for their food ; therefore
a leaf is never found entirely con-
sumed.

"As soon as they have attained their
full growth they retire into the ground,
form themselvesa chamber, make them-
selves a dark-brown roomy case, the
material for which they produce from
themselves, and remain in the earth till
spring, when they again appear as saw-
flies to propagate their species." —
Kollar.

T. grossularia and T. ribesii are

very destructive of gooseberries. Mr.
Curtis says that, —

" The larvae, of which there are two
generations in the course of the year,
live in societies consisting of from 50
to nearly 1000. One family, so to
speak, frequently occupy one bush,
and destroy all the leaves, thus prevent-
ing the fruit from arriving at maturity.

" The larvK are of a grayish colour,
covered with small black warts ar-
ranged in rows, and have twenty feet.
Their transformation also takes place
in society, one fi.\ing the end of its
cocoon to the end of the next, and so
on. Many remedies have been sug-
gested, but none have been attended
with perfect success. Perhaps the surest
way of all to diminish the numbers is
to hand-pick the larva?, and collect the
cocoons wherever they appear, and
destroy them, thus killing many hun-
dreds in embryo." — Gard. Chron.

T. -pini, T. erythrocephala, and T. ru-
fus, infest the pine and fir species.

T. cerasi produces a slimy catepillar,
commonly called a slug-worm, very in-
jurious to the leaf of the cherry, plum,
and pear. Mr. Curtis observes of
" these very singular and inactive cat-
erpillars," that they " are more like
little black slugs, or tadpoles, than the
larva? of a saw-fly, being entirely co-
vered with a slimy matter which gives
them a moist and shining appearance;
and when at rest, upon the foliage,
they might easily be mistaken for the
droppings of sparrows or swallows.
Upon closer examination they will be
found to exhibit the typical characters
of the family to which they belong,
having six pectoral and fourteen abdo-
minal feet, but no anal ones. They
are of a deep bottle-green color ; the
thorax is dilated, being very much
thicker than the rest of the body, and
concealing the head, or nearly so.

" After four or five weeks, when
they have arrived at their full growth,
they cast off" their bottle-green jackets,
and then appear in a suit of buff, being
entirely changed in their appearance ;
they no longer shine, neither are they
smooth, but covered with small trans-
verse wrinkles ; and, a short time after,
they leave the leaves for the purpose
of entering the earth, where they spin
an oval brown cocoon composed of silk,
with grains of the soil adhering to the
outside.

T EP

583

T E R.

"Towards the end of July, after 1 blisters where it commenced its opera-
having lain dormant nearly ten months, | tions being withered, they become
the flies emerge from their tombs. The ochreous or brown ; and the other por-
female is of a shining black, with a tions, but recently deprived of the

violet tint ; the head and thorax are
pubescent; the horns are short, pointed,
and composed of nine joints; the ovi-
positor is nearly concealed : the wings
are often more or less stained with
black.

The eggs are deposited on the

pulpy substance, partake of a pale
green tint. In this way one maggot
will form a patch of more than an inch
in diameter before it is full grown.

"The larva; are of a glossy pale
green, with the alimentary canal shin-
ing through the back ; the head is at-

upper side of the leaves, probably un- I tenuated, and the tail obtuse, with a
der the skin. They are oval, and of a i few tubercles. The maggots leave
clear yellow colour: the young larvai i their habitations and probably enter the
are hatched from them in a few days, earth to undergo their transformation to
Dusting the infested trees with quick- the pupa. The male flies are shining
lime is certain death to the larva;, es- ochreous, with a few black bristles on
pecially in their earlier stages; but it the head and thorax, which are dark
ought to be repeated once or twice, as! ochreous; the lower part of the face
they change their skins, and can thus, ' and horns is yellowish ; the latter droop,
like slugs, get rid of the noxious matter and are furnished with a fine bristle or
with their slough, for the first time, but seta, which is black, except at the
not so at the second dusting. On a ^ base. The eyes are deep green; the
small scale, the powdered and unslaked . body, which is five-jointed, is rusty
lime might be scattered over the leaves ; brown and downy ; the wings are much
with a tin box, having a number of holes longer than the body, iridescent, pret-
in the lid like a dredging-box ; and on a I tily variegated with brown, leaving
larger scale a fine sieve might be used by i two transparent spots on the costal
a man on a ladder or steps. Decoction \ edge, and five large irregular ones on
of tobacco water, about a quarter of a the inferior margin. The female is
pound of tobacco to two gallons of larger and darker, especially the tho-
rax, abdomen, and the brown markings
on the wings." — Gard. Chron.

The blisters are most prevalent in
September and October, and are occa-
sionally found on those of the Alex-
ander and Parsnep.

TEPHROSIA. Twenty-eight spe-
cies. Stove and green-house evergreen
shrubs, and a few herbaceous peren-
nials of the latter species. T. virgini-
ana '\s half hardy. Seeds or young cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

TERAMNUS. Two species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Loam
and peat.

TEREBRATION, or peg-grafting, is
an obsolete mode, in which a hole
was bored in the slock, and the scion
was cut in a peg form to fit iti See
Grafting.

TERMINALIA. Fifteen species.
Stove evergreen trees and shrubs. Ripe

water, thrown over the trees with a
garden-engine, will destroy them.

" Some persons have employed lime-
water with complete success; about a
peck of lime to thirty gallons of water;
and if two pounds of soft soap be added,
it will improve the mixture.

" The best periods for applying these
liquids, are before seven in the morn-
ing and after five in the evening. The
syringing should be repeated until the
trees an; free from the slug worm ; they
may afterwards be washed clean with
pure water; and if the lime water be
used in the evening the cleansing may
be deterred until the following morn-
ing."— Gard. Chron.

TEPHRITIS onopordinis. Celery
Fly. Tliis insect causes blisters on the
leaves of celery by puncturing them,
and depositing its eggs within their
tissue. Mr. Curtis observes that, —

" On examining these blisters they ' cuttings. Loam aud peat. From T.
are found to be considerably inflated, ! ca^fippa the Indian ink is obtained,
and, on holding them up to the light, a TERNSTROMIA. Four species,
maggot may be seen moving between Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings.
the thin and somewhat transparent cu- Loam and peat.

tides, where it has been consuming TERRACES are not permissible any-
the parenchyma. Those parts of the ! where but around the mansion. Mr.

T E S

584

THE

Whately justly observes, in connection
with these structures, that, —

"Choice arrangement, composition,
improvement, and preservation, are so
many symptoms of art whicli may occa-
sionally appear in several parts of a
garden, but ought to be displayed with-
out reserve near the house; nothing
there should seem neglected ; it is a
scene of the most cultivated nature ; it
ought to be enriched — it ought to be
adorned ; and design may be avowed
in the plan, and expense in the execu-
tion."

Mr. Loudon is more practical on this
subject, and observes, —

TETRAMENA mexicanianum.
Green-house shrub. Cuttings and seed.
Light rich loam.

TETRANTHERA. Eight species.
Stove and green-house evergreen trees
and shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Turfy loam,
peat, and sand.

TETRANTHUS Uttoralis. Stove
evergreen creeper. Division. Sandy
loam.

TETRAPELTIS fragrans. Stove
orchid. Division. Peat and potsherds.

TETRAPTERIS. Two species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

TETRATHECA. Seven species.

" The breadth of terraces, and their : Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young
height relatively to the level of the floor ; cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand.

of the living-rooms, must depend jointly
on the height of the floor of the living-
rooms and the surface of the grounds
or country to be seen over them. Too
broad or too high a terrace will both
have the effect of foreshortening a lawn
with a declining surface, or conceal-
ing a near valley. The safest mode,
in doubtful cases, is not to form this
appendage till after the principal floor
is laid, and then to determine the de-
tails of the terrace by trial and correc-
tion.

" Narrow terraces are entirely occu-
pied as promenades, and may be either
gravelled or paved ; and different le-
vels, when they exist, connected by in-
clined planes or flights of steps. Where
the breadth is more than is requisite for
walks, the borders may be kept in turf,

TETTIGONI A spumar/a. Froth Fly,
or Cuckoo Spit. The frothy patches
seen in April and May upon the young
shoots of hawthorn, lilac, peach, &c.,
are formed by this insect. As the froth
is formed from the sap of the plant,
the insect is by so much injurious to it.
The froth protects the insect from the
sun, from night colds, and from parasitic
insects ; but it betrays the insect to the
gardener, whose hand is the best re-
medy.

TEUCRIUM. Forty-seven species.
Hardy, half-hardy, and green-house
evergreen shrubs and herbaceous pe-
rennials; some hardy annuals, and T.
cubense a stove biennial. The herba-
ceous perennials increase by division
and seeds; the shrubby kinds by young,
cuttings; the annuals and biennials by

with groups or marginal strips of flowers j seeds. Common soil suits them all.

and low shrubs. In some cases the
terrace-walls may be so extended as to
enclose ground sufficient for a level
plot to be used as a bowling green.
These are generally connected with one
of the living-rooms, or ihe conservatory;
and to the latter is frequently joined an
aviary, and the entire range of botanic
stoves." — Enc. Gard.

TESTUDINARIA. Two species.
Green-house deciduous climbers. Im-
ported roots. Turfy loam and peat.

TETRACERA. Four species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Ripe cuttings.
Turfy loam and peat.

TETRAGONOLOBUS. Hardy trail-
ing annuals or deciduous trailers.
Seeds. Common soil.

TETRAGONOTHECA helianthoides.
Hardy herbaceous perennial. Division
or seeds. Rich light soil.

THALIA dealbata, a half-hardy aqua-
tic perennial, and T.geniculata, a stove
herbaceous perennial. Division. Light
rich soil.

THALICTRUM. Fifty-six species.
Hardy herbaceous perennials : a few
are twiners. Division. Light soil.

THAPSIA. Seven species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Seeds. Com-
mon soil.

THAPSIUM. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division or
seeds. Common soil.

THEA. Tea. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. San-
dy loam and peat.

THEOPHRASTA Jussieui. Stove
evergreen tree. Cuttings, with the
leaves left entire.

THERMOMETER. This instrument
is the only unfailing guide for the gar-

THE

585

THE

dener in regulating the heat to which ' foreign writers, the following table,
he allows the roots and foliage of his showing the synonymous degrees of
plants to be subjected. F;ihreniieit's is each, will be useful. [See table.]
that employed \n England; but as on Ff)/i7'<?n/if//'s is used cliielly in Britain,
the Continent others, ditlerently gradu- Holland, and -N'orlh America, the freez-
ated, are employed, and referred to by , ing point of water on which is at 32'"^ ;

Fnh.

Reau.

Cent.

Fah.

Reau.

Cent.

Fah.

Reau.

Cent.

Fah.

Reau.

Cent.

212

so.o

100.0

1.53

537

67.2

94

27.5

34.4

35

1.3

1.6 J

211

79.5

99.4

152

53.3

66.6

93

27.1

33.8

34

0.8

11

210

79.1

98.8

151

528

06.1

92

26.6

33.3

33

0.4

0.5

209

7 -.6

98.3

150

53.4

65.5

91

26.2

32.7

32

0.0

0.0

208

78.2

97.7

149

52.0

65.0

90

25.7

32.2

31

— 0.4

— 0.5

207

77^7

97 2

148

51.5

65.4

89

25.3

31.6

30

— 0.8

— 1.1

206

77.3

96.6

147

51.1

63.8

88

24.8

31.1

29

— 1.3

— 1.6

205

76.8

96.1

140

50.6

63.3

87

24.4

30.5

28

— 1.7

— 2.2

204

76.4

95.5

145

50.2

62.7

66

24 0

30.0

27

— 2.2

— 2.7

203

76.0

95.0

144

49.7

62 2

85

235

29 4

26

— 2.6

— 3.3

202

75.5

94.4

143

49.3

61.6

84

23.1

28.8

25

— 3.0

— 3.8

201

75.1

93.8

142

4\8

61.1

S3

22 0

28.3

24

— 3.5

- 4.4

200

74.6

93 3

141

4S.4

60 5

82

22.2

27.7

23

— 4.0

— 50

199

742

92.7

140

4^0

60.0

81

21.7

27 2

22

- 4.4

- 5.5

198

73.7

92.2

139

47.5

59.4

80

21.3

26.6

21

— 4.8

— 6.1

197

73.3

91.6 i

138

47.1

5S.8

79

20.8

26.1

20

— 5.3

— 6.6

196

72.8

91.1 !

137

46 6

58 3

78

20.4

25.5

19

.— 5.7

— 7.2

195

72 4

90.5 ■

136

46.2

57.7

77

20.0

25.0

18

— 6.2

— 7.7

194

72 0

90.0

135

45.7

57.2

76

19 5

24 4

17

- 6.6

— 8.3

193

71.5

89.4 1

134

45.3

56.6

75

19.1

2:3.8

16

— 7.1

— 8.8

192

71.1

88.8

133

44. S

56.1

74

18.6

23.3

15

- 7.5

— 9.5

191

70.6

88.3 1

132

44.4

55.5

73

18.2

22.7

14

— 8.0

—10.0

190

70.2

87.7 1

131

44.0

55.0

72

17.7

22.2

13

— 8.4

-10.5

IS9

69.7

87.2

130

4;3.5

54.4

71

17.3

21.6

12

— 8.8

—11.1

188

69.3

866

129

43.1

53.8

70

168

21.1

11

- 9.3

-11.6

167

69.3

86.1 i

12S

42 6

53.3

69

16 4

20.5

10

— 9.7

—12.2

186

6^.4

85.5

127

42.2

52.7

68

16.0

20.0

9

—10.2

-12.7

1?5

680

65 0

126

41.7

52.2

67

15.5

19 4

8

— 10.6

-13.3

184

67.5

84.4 1

125

41.3

516

66

15.1

18.8

7

—11.1

—13.8

183

67.1

83.8

124

40.8

511

65

14.6

18.3

6

-11.5

-14.4

182

666

83.3 ;

123

40.4

50.5

64

14.2

17.7

5

- 12.0

—15.0

181

662

82.7

122

40 0

50.0

63

1.3.7

17.2

4

-12 4

—15.5

180

65.7

82.2 !

121

39.5

49.4

62

13.3

16 6

3

—128

-16.1

179

65.3

81.6

120

39.1

48.8

61

12 8

16.1

2

— 1-3.3

—16.6

178

64.8

81.8

119

38.6

48.3

60

12 4

15.5

1

—13.7

-17.2

177

644

805

118

38.2

47.7

59

12.0

15.0

0

-14.2

-17.7

176

64.0

80.0

117

37.7

47.2

58

11.5

144

- 1

-14.6

-18.3

175

63.5

79.4

110

37.3

46 6

57

11.1

13.8

— 2

-151

—18.8

174

63.1

78.8

115

36.8

46.1

56

10.6

13.3

— 3

—15.5

-19.4

173

62.6

78.3

114

36.4

455

55

10.2

12.7

— 4

—16.0

—20.0

172

62.2

77.7

113

36.0

45.0

54

9.7

12 2

— 5

-16.4

-20.5

171

61.7

77.2

112

35.5

44.4

53

9.3

116

— 6

-16.8

-21.1

170

61.3

76.6 i

111

35.1

438

52

8.8

11.1

- 7

-17.3

—21.6

169

60.8

76.1 1

110

34.6

43.3

51

8.4

10.5

— 8

-17.7

-22.2

168

60.4

75.5

1 109

34.2

42.7

50

8.0

10.0

— 9

-182

-22.7

167

60.0

75.0

108

33.7

42.2

49

7.5

9.4

—10

-18.6

-23.3

16G

59 5

744

107

33.3

41.6

48

7.1

88

—11

—19.1

—23.8

16.5

.59,1

73.8

106

32.8

41.1

47

6.6

8.3

—12

—19.5

-24.4

164

59.6

73.3

105

32.4

40.5

46

6.2

7.7

-13

- 20.0

-25.0

163

58.2

72.7

104

320

40.0

45

57

7.2

—14

-20.4

-255

162

57.7

722

1 103

31.5

39.4

44

5.3

6.6

—15

—20.8

-26.1

161

57.3

71.6 t

102

31.1

38.8

43

4.8

6.1

—16

—21.3

—26.6

160

568

71.1 '

101

30.6

38.3

42

44

5.5

—17

—217

-27.2

159

56.4

70.5

, 100

.30.2

37.7

41

4.0

5.0

— 18

-22 2

-27.7

158

56.0

70.0

' 99

29.7

37.2

40

3.5

44

—19

—22.6

-28.3

157

555

69.4

98

29.3

36.6

39

31

3.8

-20

-23.1

—28.8

156

55.1

68.8

97

28.8

36.1

38

2.6

3.3

155

54.6

08.3

96

28.4

35.5

37

2.2

2.7

154

54.2

67.7

95

29.0

35.0

36

1.7

22

THE

586

THI

and its boiling point, 212°. Reaumur's 'plexicaule, a green - house evergreen
thermometer was that chiefly used in shrub ; increased by cuttings, and grow-
France before the Revolution, and is ^ ing best in loam and peat; the herba-
that now generally used in Spain, and j ceous kinds increase by division or

seeds, and require a chalky soil.

THESPESIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen trees. Half-ripe cuttings.
Sandy loam.

THIBAUDIA. Four species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Turfy loam,
peat, and sand.

THINNING. The exhaustion conse-

in some other Continental States. In
its scale, the freezing point is C ; and
the boiling point, 80°. Celsius or the
Centigrade thermometer, now used
throughout France, and in the northern
kingdoms of Europe, the freezing point
is 0° ; and the boiling point, 100°.
Hence, to reduce degrees of tempera-
ture of the Centigrade thermometer and ! quent upon the production of seed, is
of that of Reaumur to degrees of Fah- , a chief cause of the decay of plants.

renheifs scale, and conversely: —

This explains why fruit trees are weak-

Rule 1. Multiply the Centigrade de- ened or rendered temporarily unpro-
grees by 9, and divide the product by ductive, and even killed, by being
5; or multiply the degrees of Reaumur allowed to ripen too large a crop of
by 9, and divide by 4 ; then add 32 to fruit, or to "overbear themselves," as
the quotient in either case, and the it is emphatically termed by the gar-
sum is the degrees of temperature ofjdener.
Fahrenheit's scale. The thinning of fruit is consequently

Rule 2. From the number of degrees j one of the most important operations
on Fahrenheit's scale, subtract 32 ; ^ of the garden, though one of the least
multiply the remainder by 5, for Centi- : generally practised. On the weaker
grade degrees, or by 4 for those of branches of the nectarine and peach,
Reaumur's scale, and the product, in an average space of nine inches should
either case, being divided by 9, will be between each brace of fruit, and on
give the temperature required. | the most vigorous wood of the most

To ascertain the internal temperature healthy trees, they should not be nearer
of a hot-house, the thermometer should than sis inches. This enforcement of
be fixed near its centre, against a pillar, the importance of thinning fruit, is not
and under a cupola, or little roof, shad- ; intended to be confined to the two

ing it from the sun.

trees specified ; it is equally important

A self-registering thermometer should i to be attended to in all other fruit-
be in every house, for it shows the | bearers, but especially the vine, apri-
highest and lowest degrees of heat ■ cot, apple, and pear. It should be
which have occurred in the twenty- done with a bold fearless hand, and the
four hours; and, therefore, perfection of that which is allowed to
Fig. 166. serves as a check upon remain, will amply reward the grower

in the harvest time for the apparent
sacrifice now made. But he will not
reap his reward only in this year, for
the trees, thus kept unweakened by
over production, will be able to ripen
their wood, and deposit that store of
inspissated sap in their vessels, so ab-
solutely necessary for their fruilfulness
a metal tube, perforated to next season.

admittheheal, pointed so as The berries of the grape vine are best
to be easily thrust down and thinned from the branches with a sharp-
with a small door in the pointed pair of scissors, care being
side, for observing the de- taken to remove the smallest berries,
gree of temperature shown This increases the weight and excel-
lence of the bunches; for two berries
will always outweigh four grown on
the same branchlet of a bunch, be-
sides being far handsomer, and having
more juice, as compared with the skins.
The average weight of the bunches on

serves as a check upon
those to whose care they
are entrusted.

Bregazzi's bark-bed ther-
mometer is an excellent in-
strument for ascertaining
the bottom heat of hot-
beds, bark-pits, &c. It is
a thermometer inclosed in

^ by the scale. Fig. 166

THERMO PS IS. Three species.
Hardy or half-hardy herbaceous peren-
nials. Seeds. Light rich soil.

THESIUM. Six species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials, except T. am-

TH 0

587

T HU

a vine may be taken, when ripe, at half the leaves, and at this time the recently
a pound each, and with this data it is hatched but perfect insect, either lies
easy to carry into practice Mr. Clement close under the ribs, or roves about in

Iloare's excellent rule for proportioning
the crop to the size of the vine.

If its stem, measured just above the
ground, be three inches in circumfer-
ence, it may bear five pounds weight of
grapes.

3.i inches 10 lbs.

4 '• 15 "

41 " 20 "

5" " 25 "

And so five pounds additional for
every half inch of increased circum-
ference.

Thinning is a most necessary opera-
tion with |)lanls, as well as with the
fruit they bear. The roots of a plant
extend in a circle round it, of which the
stem is the centre. If the roots of ad-

search of a mate." — Gard. Chron.

T. ochraceiis infests the ripe fruit of
plums, peaches, and nectarines, pierc-
ing the stalks and causing their fall, and
rendering the fruit disgusting. It was
first noticed, and thus described by Mr.
Curtis : —

'• It is narrow and linear, of a bright
and deep ochreous colour, the eyes are
black, the horns appear to be only six-
jointed and brownish at the tips ; it has
three ocelli in the crown, the body is
hairy, the tip pointed and bristly, the
wings are shorter than the body in the
male, lying parallel on the back when
at rest, narrow, especially the under
ones, and fringed, the hairs longest
eneath and at the point, tips of feet

joining plants extend within each other"s dusky." — Gard. Chron.

circle, they mutually rob of nutriment,
and check each other's growth. Thin-
ning in the seed-bed is the remedy
generally applied with too timid a
hand.

TMOMASIA. Seven species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings.
Loam, peal, and sand.

THOU INI A pinnata. Stove ever-
green shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

T H R I F T. Statice armeria. See
Edgings.

TflKIPS, a genus of predatory in-
sects.

T. adonidum is particularly injurious

THROATWORT. Campanula cervi-
caria.

THROATWORT. Campanula tra-
chelium.

THROATWORT. Trachelium.

THRYALLIS brachystachys. Stove
evergreen climber. Ripe cuttings.
Loam and peat.

THUJA arbor vitcB. Eight species.
Evergreen trees, all hardy except T.
articulata, which is half-hardy, and T.
cupressoides ,\wh\ch belongs to the green-
house. Seeds, and T. pendula, one of
the rarer kinds, by cuttings. A moist
soil suits them best. T. occidentalis
and T. orientalis form admirable ever-

to stove plants. Its different forms are green hedges, and when properly shear-
ed, inclining inward from the base so
that no part is overshadowed, retain
their beauty for many years. As a
standard, the occidentalis or American
arbor vitT, has few superiors among the
minor evergreens.

THUNBERGIA. Ten species. Stove

thus j)ortrayed by that excellent ento
mologist, Mr. Curtis : —

" Tlie larva; and pupa; are yellowish-
white, and the perfect insect is of a
dull deep black, with the point, and
sometimes the whole of the abdomen,
of a rust colour, the wings are dirty

white, the horns and legs yellowish, I evergreen climbers, except T. auran-

the extremity of the former black ; it is
very troublesome in hot-houses, attack-
ing tropical plants by piercing the under
side of the leaves, and one often sees
at the tip of the tail a globule of black-
ish fluid, which it soon deposits, and by
innumerable spots of this glutinous mat-

tiaca, a green-house herbaceous peren-
nial. Cuttings or seeds. Sandy loam
and leaf mould.

Mr. Maclntyre says, that the species
of this genus, " tho'ugh usually grown
in a stove, will flower freely in a green-
house, or even when they are planted

ter the pores of the leaves are stopped out in the open border, during the sum-
up, and large portions of the surface ' mer months: if the situation is sheltered,
become blotched. During March the and exposed to the influence of the sun,
full-grown larva; and pupx^ which are | they will flower well. In propagatmg
as large as the perfect insect, are found 1 those that are intended for planting out,
in groups, feeding on the under side of i take ofT the lateral shoots when they are

THY

588

TIL

of a sufficient length, which, if possible,
should be done in March, so that the
plants may have attained a medium size
liefoie they are put out; pot them in
equal quantities of peat and sand, then
plunge them in a hot-bed, and they will
strike root in a week or two. When
they are rooted, pot them off iuto small
pots filled with good rich loam and
leaf-mould, mixed with a little sand ;
then replace them in the pit or frame
until the middle of May, when, if the
weather is favourable, they may then be
planted out. If the soil is not naturally
good, it should be made so; and as the
plants advance in growth, they should
be trained to some kind of support,
which may be of any shape that fancy
may suggest. If the season is dry, they
should be watered and syringed. About
the middle of October, take up the
plants with good balls, re-pot them,
and place them in the green-house.
After they have been there for a short
time, they may be removed to the stove,
where they will keep gay for the greater
part of the winter.

" T. alata has a beautiful effect when
it is planted out on a rock-work, where
the plant appears in its natural charac-
ter, clinging to the various projections,
which it quickly covers." — Gard. Chron.

THYMBRA spicata. Half-hardy
evergreen shrub. Young cuttings or
seeds. Gravelly soil.

THYME. Thymus vulgaris.

Varieties. — Broad-leaved Green, Nar-
row-leaved Green, Variegated, and
Lemon-scented. The Variegated is
grown almost solely on account of its
ornamental foliage.

Soil and Situation. — A poor, light,
and dry soil, is best. In moist or rich
soils, it becomes luxuriant, but deficient
in its aromatic qualities, and generally
perishes during the winter. The situa-
tion cannot be too open.

Propagation. — By Seeds and rooted
Slips. — Sowing may be performed from
the middle of March until about the
beginning of May, in drills half an inch
deep, six inches apart, or as an edging
to a bed or border. The seedlings must
be kept clear of weeds, and if the season
is dry, watered moderately twice a week.
When of about six weeks' growth, or
when three or four inches high, thin
to six inches apart, unless grown as
an edging, when they must be left
thick. Those removed may be pricked

out at a similar distance, if required ;
water occasionally until they have taken
root. The plants may be left in the
situations they are placed in at this
season, or be finally planted out in
September or October, or in the early
spring of the following year. To obtain
slips, some old stools may be divided
into as many rooted portions as possible,
or layers may be obtained by loosening
the soil around them, and pegging the
lateral shoots beneath the surface. They
must be planted out at distances similar
to those raised from seed, water and
weeding being similarly required.

In autumn the decayed stalks should
be cleared away, and a little fresh earth
scattered and turned in among the
stools.

Although it is perennial, yet after
three or four years, thyme becomes
stunted and unproductive, consequently
requiring to be raisedperiodically from
seed.

By Slips. — These may be planted
from the beginning of February until
the close of May.

To obtain Seed. — Some plants should
be allowed to run up without being
gathered from, in early summer. The
seed is ripe during July, and must be
cut immediately it is so, and laid on a
cloth to dry, otherwise the first rain will
wash it out of the seed-vessels.

THYMUS. Thyme. Nineteen spe-
cies, and several varieties. Hardy or
half-hardy evergreen shrubs or trailers.
T. corsicus, an herbaceous perennial.
Division, slips, cuttings, or seeds. Dry,
light, sandy soil.

THYSANOTUS. Seven species.
Green-house or half-hardy herbaceous
or tuberous-rooted perennials. Offsets.
Sandy loam.

TIARELLA. Four species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division. Sandy
peat.

TIARIDIUM. Two species. Half-
hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

TIGER FLOWER. Tigridia.

TIGRIDIA. Two species. Hardy
bulbous perennials. Offsets or seeds.
Light rich soil.

TILE ROOT. Geissorhiza.

TILIA. Lime Tree. Three species,
and many varieties. Hardy deciduous
trees. Seeds and sometimes layers.
Any deep, light, and fertile soil suits
them.

TILIACORA racemosa. Stove ever-

TI L

5S9

TIP

green climber. Cuttings
and peat.

TILLANDSIA
Stove epiphytes

Sandy loam caterpillar of different shades, varying

with its age, is Ibund in or near tlie

Thirty-one species, centre feeding upon the tender leaves,

Suckers or seeds, and sometimes a little family of four or

Wood, with a little moss on their roots, live inhabit the same head. The head
TINKA, a genus of moths, the larva; feelers and horns of our little moth arc

of which are very destructive.

white, the latter with a few black spots

T. daucella. Carret Moth. Head and near the tips ; the thorax is cream-co-
back and upper wings reddish-brown; loured, the sides brown, upper wings
abdomen gray and white. Its cater- , lance-shaped, very pale clay brown,
pillar is greenish-gray with black tuber- , with whitish streaks. Perhaps the best
cles, and lives on the flowers and seeds method of extirpating them would be
of the carrot, but prefers the parsnep. to search for the young caterpillars

T. padella. Small Ermine Moth is between the leaves on the first symp-
white with black dots on the upper ! toms of their presence, and extracting
wings. Eggs deposited in June and ^ them with a small pair of forceps, such
July, near the blossom buds of the haw- I as are used for microscopic objects;
thorn, cunymus, apple and pear tree ; j but as some might be too minute at that
caterpillars appear in autumn, and in- ] early period to be detected on the first
close the twigs with a web. In the fol- ; search, this operation must be repeated.

lowing spring they attack the petals and
calyx. Color, dull lead with a black
liead. — Ko'ilar. \

T. Clerckella. Pear Tree Blister]
Moth. The caterpillars of this raise

Pinching the maggots in the bud is also
recommended as well as dusting the
plants with fiower of sulphur, which I
fear would be of little use. I think,
however, that a portable frame might

dark brown blisters on the leaves of the be constructed and covered with tarred
pear tree, and less often on those of the I or painted canvas, which could be
apple. The moth is active and minute, ! placed over a bush or small bed of
shining like pearly satin, the wings hav- flowers, when it is attacked by insects ;
ing an orange ground spotted with and it would then be easy to fumigate
black and other colors. It appears in any plant by means of an aperture with
]May. Mr. Curtis says, — "To check a tube of leather or any pliable mate-
this disease, it will be advisable to wash : rial which could be tied or plugged up,
the tree with soapsuds the end of May so as to keep in the smoke of tobacco,
or beginning of June, when the moths or even of sulphur, which last would
are pairing and laying eggs for a future \ in ten minutes destroy every living ani-
progctiy ; and if a very valuable tree mal within the inclosed space." — Card.
be only partially attacked, the blistered Cliron.
leaves might be gathered and burnt as ' TIPULA. Crane Fly or Daddy-long-

soon as any spots began to appear in ! legs.

August." — Gard. Chroii.

T. oleracea, the grubs or " leather

T. capitella. Triple-spotted Currant jackets," so injurious to the market
Tinea. The larva; of this feed upon gardener, are its larvae. They attack
the pith of the young shoots of the cur- I the roots of scarlet beans, lettuces,
rant, which they attack in the spring, dahlias, potatoes, &c., from May to
The moth itself is fuscous; the head , August. During the last month and
with an ochreous tuft; superior wings September they become pupa;. Mr.
bronzed, spotted with purple and yel- : Curtis observes, that — " It is said that
low.

T. poreclelld.

1 lime water will not kill them, and sug
Rocket or Gray-streak gests that if quicklime was scattered on
Moth, has its habits and forms thus de- . the ground at night, it would destroy

scribed by Mr. Curtis : —

them when they come to the surface to

" During the middle and latter end | feed ; and all the gnats that are found
of April, as the shoots of the rockets , on the walls, palings, ground or else-
advance, it is found that the leaves ad- where, should be killed, especially the
here firmly together, and those that female, which would prevent any eggs
liberate themselves are perforated with being deposited in the ground. A mix-
large holes. On forcibly opening a ture of lime and gas water distributed
shoot, for the young leaves are con- j by a watering pot over grass, has com-
nected by silken threads, a small green pletely exterminated the larva;, where

TIT

590

TOM

they had been exceedingly destructive, the solution, dry them and keep till
and by sweeping the grass with a hag- I wanted. To fumigate, roil one of the
net, like an angler's landing net, only | pieces into a pipe like a cigar, leaving
covered with canvas, immense numbers the hollow half an inch in diameter,
of the gnats might be taken and de-i which fill with tobacco, twist one end

stroyed." — Gard. Chron.

and stick it into the soil, light the other.

TITHONIA tagetiflora. Stove and it will burn gradually away for an
evergreen tree. Cuttings. Light rich hour or more."
soil. I Tobacco smoke should not be ad-

TOBACCO. Nicotiana, whether in | mitted to fruit trees when in bloom,
the form of snuff, or its decoction in nor when the fruit is ripening, as it
water, or its smoke whilst burning, is j imparts to them a flavour. See Fumi-

very destructive to insects.

gating.

Tobacco paper is paper saturated with ! Tobacco Water is usually made from
the decoction of tobacco, and when what is known as Tobacconists'' Liquor,
burnt emits a fume nearly as strong. It being a liquor expressed by them, and
is an easy mode of generating the , full of ammonia and the acrid oil of the
smoke. Whenever plants are smoked plant. To every gallon of this add five
they should be done so on two follow- ' gallons of water. This mixture with
ing nights, and then be syringed the i Read's garden syringe may be sprinkled
following morning. Mr. Cameron says, ' over the trees, putting it on with the
— " I have always found tobacco paper finest rose, and being carefiil to wet all
the most efficacious substance to fumi- ' the leaves. This operation is to be
gate with for destroying the aphis with- ! performed only in the hottest sunshine,
out doing any injury to the plants ; if as the effect is then much greater than
the house is not filled too rapidly with | when the weather is dull ; five gallons
smoke, and is allowed to reach the ' of liquor reduced as above stated,
glass, without coming in contact with ' cleanses seventeen peach and nectarine
any of the plants, it then descends as trees, averaging seventeen feet in
it cools, without doing any injury, length, and twelve in height. The
Plants fumigated in frames, or under black glutinous ap/i/s, provincially call-
hand-glasses, are most liable to be in- ' ed blight, so destructive to the cherry
jured by the heat of the smoke, if not j trees, and in fact every species of aphis,
done cautiously. There is a spurious ' is destroyed in the same way with equal
kind of tobacco paper sometimes offer- I facility ; the grubs which attack the
ed in spring by the tobacconists, appa- i apricot, may be destroyed almost in-
rently made to meet the increased de- stantly by immersing the leaves infested
mand, and this kind of paper will bring I in this liquor. — Gard. Mag.
the leaves off plants, without killing As the tobacconists' liquor cannot be
many of the aphides. It is of a lighter ( obtained always, tobacco water may be,
color than the genuine sort, and may i in such case, made by pouring half a
be readily detected by the smell being ! gallon of boiling water upon one ounce
very different. Foliage should be per- ! of strong tobacco, and allowing it to re-
fectly dry when a house is fumigated, main until cold, and then strained.

TOCOCA. Two species. Stove ever-

and should not be syringed till next
morning. If plants are syringed im-
mediatelv after fumigation, many ofj

;reen trees. Cuttings. Peat and loam.

TOCOYENA longiflora. Stove ever-

the aphides will recover even where ! green shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat and

they have dropped off the plants, a
fact which any one may soon prove
after fumigating a house." — Gard.
Chron.

Another very simple mode of fum

loam.

TODDALIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam,
peat, and sand.

TODEA. Two species. Ferns.

gating plants in frames, and under Green-house herbaceous perennials,
hand-glasses turned over them for the Division or seeds. Loam and peat,
purpose, is as follows: — "Dissolve a' TOLPIS. Five species. Hardy an-
tablespoonful of saltpetre in a pint of nuals. Seeds. Common soil,
water; take pieces of the coarsest' "TOMATO or Love-apple. This
brown paper, six inches wide, and ten ! plant is a native of South America, and
inches long, steep them thoroughly in ' perhaps of the West Indies j thence in-

TON

591

TOO

troduced into this country. But a few the front wall, and a window on each
years since it was scarcely known as an side of the centre door. Strong beams
esculent — now it is in very general use. ! are thrown across from front to back,

" There are six or seven varieties,
between which there is not much real
difference ; the common red is equal to
any.

" Cultivation same as directed for the
Melongena, or Egg Plant. It is, how-
ever, more free in growth, and will pro-
duce fruit tolerably early, when sown
on the open border.

" On the approach of frost pull up
some of the plants, (root and all,) which
are well laden with fruit, and hang them

and strong planks laid on them, which
form a useful loft for placing mats,
stakes, laths for tally making, brooms,
nets, canvas for covering and shading,
&c. &c. Within two feet of the roof,
against the back wall, is placed a row
of pegs the whole length of the shed,
for hanging the long-handled tools, such
as grass and leaf rakes, long-handled
Dutch hoes and iron rakes, &c.; on the
next row of pegs, the whole length of
the shed, are placed the various kinds

up in a dry, airy apartment. In this | of draw hoes, tan forks, dung forks and

manner it may be continued in perfeC'
tion for some time longer than the natu-
ral season." — Rural Reg.

TONQUIX BEAN. Dipterix.

TOOL-HOUSE. Upon this too much
neglected garden edifice, the editor has
been favoured by Mr. Barnes, of Bicton
Gardens, with the following excellent
remarks: — "Have a place for every-
thing, and everything in its place ;■

prongs, strong forks for digging and
surface stirring, spades and shovels of
various kinds, pickaxes, mattocks and
bills, dung drags, edging shears, &c.;
on a third row of pegs, still lower, are
placed the water pots, all numbered,
with initials as well, thus — B, G — 45,
or 60, whatever the number may run
to ; underneath those is a row more of
pegs, for placing the noses of the water

kept in good condition, and at all times pots — thus the back wall is furnished,
put away clean ; — for omission of which The front wall, half way, is furnished
have rules and fines placed in each of with shelves for placing shreds and

the tool-houses, regularly enforced, and
payment demanded for each fine on the
labourers' pay-day. At Bicton, a book
is kept for entering each fine, and a
Beparate account given of each fine, and
for what, or why, it was enforced; an-
nually. Lady Rollc doubles the amount
so collected, and if good order has been

nails, rope yarn, tallies, flower pegs,
whetstones, rubber or scythe-stones,
and many other small articles. Under-
neath those shelves are pegs for hang-
ing the hammers, axes, saws, hatchets,
mallets and stake-drivers, trowels, hand-
forks, reels and lines, hedge-clipping
shears, scythes, chisels, the various

kept, and only a small sum so collected, sizes of one-handed crane-necked hoes,

her ladyship trebles the amount. I add crowbars, mops, hair-brushes and

my own mite, and each foreman theirs, brooms, and various other articles,

as a sort of compound for any matter ' The scythes are hung up over the end

that may have slipped our memories, beam, and on the other side without

&c.; the amount is then placed in the shelves the hand-barrows are placed;

Savings Bank, as a reserve sum in case birch and heath brooms, both round and

of illness, &c. We have the same order fan-shaped, that are in daily use; and

and regulation kept in each tool-shed, various other articles. The garden rules

that is to say, the tool-shed of each de- are hung in a conspicuous place ; also

partment — that I need here describe in the tool-house. Every tool is to be

only one. The tool-shed of the hot- put into its proper or allotted place,

house and flower-garden department is every night, thoroughly cleansed; any

a lean-to shed at the back of a hot-house,
substantially built, and covered with
slate: — length, fifty-four feet; width,
thirteen feet; height at back, fifteen
feet; and height in front, nine feet;

omission of which subjects the defaulter
to a fine. Each tool-house is under the
same system. We have separate wheel-
barrow sheds ; sheds for placing soils in
the dry, arranged in old casks; varieties

paved all through with Yorkshire flag- ' of sand, pebbles, and flints, for potting
stones, which are neatly swept up every purposes, with lofts over for flower pot
night, the last thing, and washed every stowage ; — a shed for the liquid manure
Saturday, thoroughly. There is a door casks, which is one of the most essen-
at each end, and one in the centre of tial and valuable of all. A shod for

TOR

592

TRA

placing the charred articles of all kinds, selves down by threads, and thus es-
equal to the last ; a potting shed ; mush- cape.'" — Gard. Chron.

room shed ; stove shed ; fruit rooms,
and onion lofts, &c. &c. — Each and all
are kept under the above regulations."

TORENIA scabra and cordifolia.
Green-house evergreen shrubs. Seeds. '
Sandy loam. There are two other spe-
cies not worth cultivating.

TORTRIX. A genus of moths.

T. ocellana. This is the parent of
the red bud caterpillar, which destroys
the buds of the apple and pear. Upper
wings gray, with a white transverse
band.

T. Wceberiana. Plum tree Tortrix.
Its larva feeds on the inner bark of the
plum, apricot, almond, and peach. The

T. luscana generates a red grub, and grubs pierce holes through the bark,
T. cynosbana a black-spotted green which may be detected by small heaps

grub, both very destructive of blossom
buds.

T. vitisana. Vine Tortrix. Found
on the vine in April and May ; head
yellow; upper wings marbled with rusty
and gray colours. Caterpillars appear

of red powder upon it. Moth brown ;
grub greenish, with a red head.

T. pomonana. Codling Moth. Its
reddish-white grub is common in apples
and pears. Moth light gray, streaked
with dark gray. Seen of an evening

as the blossom buds open, which they , during May, and the grubs appear soon

unite with white threads

T. nigricana. Red Plum Grub Tor-
trix. Moth black, appearing in June.
Eggs deposited on the plum ; grub,
small red, pierces the fruit, and is found
near the stone. Mr. Curtis observes,
that — " If the plums that have fallen otF

after. All fallen apples should be de-
stroyed, because they usually contain
this or other grubs, which will otherwise
produce moths, and multiply the evil.

" T. turionana, T. hyrcyniana, T.
resinella, and T. buoliana, all infest
pine trees, injuring them by depositing

be examined, a small red caterpillar their eggs in the buds, which are sub-
will be found within it; the caterpillar sequently preyed upon by their eater-

being generally full grown when the
plum falls off, soon creeps out, and
penetrates the loose bark, forming a
case in w-hich it remains during the
winter. Early in the spring it changes

pillars.'" — Kollar. — Gard. Chron.

TOUCH-ME-XOT. Impatiens.

TOURRETIA lappacea. Hardy
climbing annual. Seeds. Light soil.

into a light brown pupa, and the moth rita.

TOWER MUSTARD. Arabis Tur-

emerges about June. The moth is not
so large as a house-fly; its wings are
almost black, and when the sun is
shining on them, they have a remarka-
bly metallic lustre; on the outer edge
of the fore wings there is an appearance
of fine silver dust. Among the reme-

TRACHELIUM caruleum. Hardy
herbaceous perennial. Seeds or cut-
tings. Light soil.

TRACHYMEXE. Six species. Green-
house annuals; increased by seed, and
green-house and stove evergreen shrubs.

J- „ J t 1 .1 c increased by voung cuttings. Loam

dies proposed to lessen the ravages of , , ■' ^- •. ^., ,,"

- '^ ^ = and sandy peat suits them all

TRACHVTELLA actcea.

this insect, it is recommended to shake
the trees, and remove all the fruit that
falls off; and another good method is

house evergreen climber.

to scrape the rough pieces of bark of tings- Peat and loam.

Green-
Ripe cut-

the stem, under which the cocoons are
concealed ; this must be done late in
the autumn, or early in the spring." —
Gard. Chron. '

T. Bergmanniana. Rose Tortrix.
Differs little to a common observer
from the preceding. " Where bushes

TRADESCANTIA. Twenty-seven
species. Chiefly stove and hardy herb-
aceous perennials. A few hardy an-
nuals, and stove and green-house ever-
green trailers. T. paniculata is a green-
house biennial. T. tuberosa is a stove
tuberous-rooted perennial. Division.

are much infested with the larvae of The annuals, seeds. Rich light soil

these insects, it is much better to cut
them down and burn the shoots ; this
and hand-picking are the only remedies
we are acquainted with. Care must be
taken not to disturb the maggots when
collecting them, for they will let them-

suits them all.

TRAGOPOGOX. Goat"s beard. Fif-
teen species. Hardy biennials. Seeds.
Common soil. T. po7-r if olius is ihe gar-
den Salsafy.

TRAGOPYRUM. Three species.

T R A

693

T R A

Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers. Peat
and sandv loam.

TRAILERS. See Creepers.

TRAIN OIL. See Animal ^fatters.

TRAINING has for its object render-

in general to be produced, beyond that
of causing; a slow circulation, and the
formation of flowers." — Theory nf Hort.
The reason of this appears in the fiict,
that a plant propels its sap with greatest

ing plants more productive either of ' force perpendicularly, so much so that
flowers or of tVuit, bv rerrulatinnr the ' the sap rising in a vine branch growing
number and position of their branches. I in a right line from the root, with a force
If their number be too great, they over- ] capable of sustaining a column of mer-
shadow those below them, and "by ex- ] cury twenty-eight inches high, will, if

the branch be bent down to a right
angle, support barely twenty-three
inches, and if bent a few degrees be-
low the horizontal, the column sustained
will not he more than twenty-one
inches. This is the reason why at such
angles gardeners find the trained
branches of their wall trees rendered
more productive of blossoms, and fur-
nished with a smaller surface of leaves.

eluding the heat and light, prevent that
elaboration of the sap required for the
production of fructification. If they are I
too few, the sap is expended in the pro- -
duction of more, and in extending the
surface of the leaves required for the
digestion of the juices. I

The position of the branches is im- '
portant, because, if trained against a
wall, they obtain a higher temperature,
and protection from winds; and if
trained with their points below the
horizontal, the return of the 8ap is
checked. Shy-flowering shrubs, as Di-
placiis puniceiis, are made to blossom
abundantly, and freely-flowering shrubs,
as Cytisus hybridits, are made to blos-
som earlier, by having their branches
bent below the horizontal line. Dr.
Lindley, observing upon these facts,
proceeds to remark, that — "If a stem
is trained erect, it will be more vigorous
than if placed in any other position, and
its tendency to hear leaves rather than
flowers will be increased : in proportion
as it deviates from the perpendicular is
its vigour diminished. For instance, if
a stem is headed back, and onlv two
opposite buds arc allowed to grow, they
will continue to push eriually, so long
as their relation to the perpendicular is
the same ; but if one is bent towards a
horizontal direction, and the other al-
lowed to remain, the growth of the

Fig. 167.

A similar effect is produced by training
a branch in a waving form, for two-
former will be immediately checked ; if thirds of its length are placed horizon-

the depression is increased, the weak
ness of the branch increases proportion
ally; and this may be carried on till the
branch perishes. In training, this fact
is of tho utmost value in enabling the
gardener to regulate the symmetry of a
tree. It, however, by no means follows,
that because out of two contiguous
branches, one growing erect, and the

tallv, as in the accompanying outline.
— Princ. of Gardening.

On the practical parts of training,
.\bercrombie has the following good
directions : —

" When it is intended to raise trained

fruit-trees for walls and espaliers, some

I of the best young plants of the respect-

ive sorts, both dwarf and half-standards

other forced into a downward direction, of one year old, with the first shoots

the latter may die, that all branches
trained downwards will die. On the
contrary, an inversion of their natural
position is of so little conseqiience to
their healthiness, that no ell'ect seems
38

from the budding and grafting entire,
should be transplanted in autumn, at
eight or ton feet distance, against any
kind offence having a south aspect, in
a free situation, not less than four or

TRA

594

TRA

five feet high, either a wall, paling, i up in summer than now appears neces-

reed-fence, &c.

sary, or than can be trained in with due

"The trees thus planted, in spring , regularity, retrench such superfluities;
following, just as they begin to make an likewise any remaining fore-right or
effort for shooting, should be headed ' back shoots, and other irregular growths
down ; that is, the first shoots from the | omitted in summer, not eligibly situated
budding, &c., to be cut down to within for training in, should also be now all
three or four eyes or buds of its place i pruned out, cutting everything of the
of insertion in the stock, especially j above nature, both superabundances
those intended for dwarfs; also the and irregularities, quite close to their
half-standards, if worked on tall stocks; I origin, being careful, however, to leave
and this heading down both prevents [ all the regular, well - placed, useful
their running up too high with a single i shoots that can readily be trained witli
naked stem, branchless below, and due regularity, without crowding or
causes them to throw out lateral shoots crossing one another, all of which
from the lower part, to fill the wall or : should also be cleared from all lateral
espalier regularly with branches quite or side shoots, if any ; and with respect
from the bottom upward ; for they will ^ to their being shortened more or less,
soon after push forth strong shoots from or left entire, you will order, according
all the remaining lower buds, which to your discretion, agreeably to the
shoots, when of due length, in summer, above-mentioned hints,
should be trained along to the fence, | " Thus, having obtained a regular
equally to the right and left, at full spread of branches sufficient to eff'ect
length, till next spring, when these the proper expansion requisite to form
shoots may also be cut down to six or I a trained wall or espalier tree, they
eight inches' length, to force out a ! must then be pruned according to the
further supply of more branches near : method peculiar to each respective sort
the bottom. Continue shortening, more ' of fruit, as directed in their culture,
or less, the two or three first sprigs on | each under its proper genus. Training
the last summer's shoots, as you shall ; espalier trees is effected exactly in the
see necessary, in order to obtain a pro- manner as above, only these may be
per spread of lower branches to give also trained as they stand in the nurse-
the tree its intended form. Though this ' ry lines, in the open quarters or bor-
work of pruning short, to obtain laterals, i ders, &c., by ranging some stout stakes
may also be performed occasionally in 1 in the ground, along one side of each
summer, in May, or early in June, on tree. Where a general luxuriancy pre-
the strong young shoots of the year, ; vails, while under the course of train-
cutting or pinching them down to a ing, or after, it is advisable, in the work
few eyes, and they will thereby throw of pruning, to use the knife with mode-
out lower laterals the same season, and, ration ; for the more wood we cut out
by that means, a year's growth is gained. ' of a generally vigorous tree, and the
Branches thus gained arrive to proper j more the shoots are shortened, the more
length in summer for training in ; they , vigorous will it continue to shoot with-
should all be trained along close to the 'out ever becoming properly fruitful ;
wall ; and if any fore-right or back , and if severe cutting is repeatedly
shoots come out, rub them all off close, continued, the tree often exhausts so
leaving the well-placed side shoots in greatly by luxuriant shooting, that it
every part; and let the whole, or as | suddenly assumes a weak consumptive
many as possible, be trained in during state. Such trees as are vigorous only
this season, to have plenty to choose in particular shoots, may, in some cases,
from in the general pruning season of have such shoots radically retrenched,
winter or spring — train equally to the | and in others reserved ; that if a very
right and left on each side of the tree, i vigorous shoot runs considerably strong-
in a spreading somewhat horizontal er than all the rest, and seems to sup-
manner, nowhere crossing one another, ' port its vigour at the expense of the
but ^t parallel distances, and mostly others in its neighbourhood, it should
all at full length during the summer's be retrenched to the very origin, as

growth.

early in summer as discoverable. In

In the winter pruning we are to other cases, if a luxuriant shoot arise
observe that, if more wood was trained in any vacant space towards the hot-

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torn, especially where a supply of more
wood is wanted, it may be retained,
and pinched or topped down to a few
eyes in May or June; it will send out
several laterals below, the same sea-
son; and instead of one rude luxuriant
shoot, there will be four or five of mo-
derate growth to fill the vacancy more
effectually, and that will much sooner
attain to iruitfulness." — Abercromhie.

Besides the above usual modes of
trainin^T — for which see also IValls,
Espaliers, and Standards — there are
two other modes which deserve notice.
Quenouille Training " consists in
training one upright central shoot in
summer, and shortening it down to
fifteen inches at the winter pruning, in
order that it may, at that height, pro-
duce branches forming a tier, to be
trained, in the first instance, horizon-
tally. The shoot produced by the up

the Gardener''s Magazine, viii. 680, by
means of which standard rose trees are
converted into masses of flowers. The
figure given in that work represents the
variety called the ' Bizarre de la Chine,'
which flowers most abundantly to the
ends of its branches, and was truly a
splendid object."

TRANSPLANTING is most success-
fully performed, whenever the roots are
least required for supplying the leaves
with moisture. The reason is obvious,
because the roots are always in some
degree broken, and lessened in their
absorbing power, by the process of
removal. Now the leaves require least
moisture in the autumn and winter,
therefore, these are the seasons when
transplanting is effected with least in-
jury to a plant. That such is the ra-
tionale of seasonable transplanting is
proved by the fact that pots in plants,

permost bud is, however, trained as : with reasonable care, may be trans-

upright as possible during the summer,
and is cut back, so as to produce an-
other tier fifteen inches above the first,
and so on until the tree has reached the

planted at any season. This rule, too,
is sanctioned both by theory and prac-
tice— transplant as early as possible
after the leaves cease to require a sup-

desired height. In this climate, it is i ply of sap, the reason for which is,
necessary to train the shoot downwards, that the vital powers in the roots con-
which is easily done by tying those of tinue active long afterthey have become
the first tier to short stakes, those of torpid in the branches and fresh roots

each successive tier being fastened to
the branches below them. When the
shoots are thus arched downwards at
full length, or nearly so, they soon
come into a bearing state ; but in this

are formed during the autumn and
winter, to succeed those destroyed by
transplanting.

" If the months of November and
December," says Dr. Lindley, " arc

climate, if cut short, as the French do, ' the most favourable for transplanting

they only send up a number of shoots
annually. The plan answers very well
where it can be at all times properly
attended to ; but if this cannot be
guaranteed, the ordinary form of dwarf
is preferable. Quenouilles require
more time to be devoted to them than
espaliers." — Gard. Citron.

Balloon Training. — On this mode I
merely extract the following from Dr.
Lindley's Theory of Horticulture : —

" What are called ballnon apples and

deciduous trees, and March and .\pril
the worst, how much more important
must be those periods to evergreens.
An evergreen differs from a deciduous
plant in this material circumstance, that
it has no season of rest; its leaves re-
main alive and active during the winter,
and, consequently, it is in a state of
per[)etual growth. I do not mean that
it is always lengthening itself in the form
of new branches, for this happens peri-
odically only in evergreens, and is usu-

pears,are formed by forcing downwards ' ally confined to the spring ; but that its
all the branches of standard trees till ' circulation, perspiration, assimilation,
the points touch the earth, and they ! and production of roots are incessant,
have the merit of producing large crops Such being the case, an evergreen,
of fruit in a very small compass; their ! when transplanted, is liable to the same
upper parts are, however, too much ' risks as deciduous plants in full leaf,
exposed to radiation at night, and the with one essential difference. The
crop from that part of the branches is leaves of evergreens are provided with
apt to be cut off. One of the prettiest I a thick hard epidermis, which is tender
applications of this principle is that of and readily permeable to aqueous ex-
Mr. Charles Lawrence, described in ' halations only when quite young and

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696

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which becomes very firm and tough by j exhibit no appearance of having been
the arrival of winter, whence the rigi- i removed. In the first place, we make
dity always observable in the foliage of | the hole where the tree is intended to
evergreen trees and shrubs. Such a be placed sulliciently large for tlie roots
coating as this is capable, in a much | to be extended at full length ; and, in
less degree than one of a thinner tex- removing the tree, great care is taken
ture, such as we find upon deciduous to avoid cutting or injuring tiie roots,
plants, of parting with aqueous vapour ; If a ball of earth is retained so much
and, moreover, its stomates are few, the better, as it will assist in steadying
small, comparatively in active, and ; the tree ; but, if well staked, it is not
chiefly confined to the under side, of much importance. As it is essential
where they are less exposed to dryness that the roots be as little exposed to the
that if they were on the upper side also, atmosphere as possible, we provide

" But although evergreens, from their suflicient earth, either sifted or finely
structure, are not liable to be affected , reduced by a spade or rake, and have
by the same external circumstances as in readiness as many buckets of water
deciduous plants in the same degree ; as will nearly fill the hole; the tree is
and although, therefore, transplanting then placed in its intended position ; the
an evergreen in leaf is not the same whole of the water is then thrown over
thirg as transplanting a deciduous tree the roots, the fibres of which will be
in the same condition, yet it must be supported by it. The fine earth is then
obvious that the great extent of perspir- ', expeditiously sprinkled over the surface
ing surface upon the one, however low of the water, and, gradually subsiding,
its action, constitutes much difficulty, fills all the interstices, and gives sta-
superadded to whatever difficulty there bility to the tree, which is further se-
may be in the other case. , cured by three stakes placed at right

" Hence we are irresistibly driven to angles, which finishes the operation,
the conclusion that whatever care is re- i The earth must not be trodden, as is

quired in the selection of a suitable
season damp, and not too cold for a
deciduous tree, is still more essential
for an evergreen." — Theory of Hort.
It sometimes happens that transplant-

ing has to be performed at the most in- abbreviation : —

often done." — Card. Chron.

The following observations, in the
Gardener's Chronicle, so epitomize all
that is practically essential in trans-
planting, that it is extracted with little

auspicious seasons ; and when this is the
case the following directions, given by
Mr. Williamson, of the Sheffield Bo-
tanic Garden, may be followed with
success : —

" At the Sheffield Botanical Gardens

' In the removal of large trees or
shrubs, first form the pit, where the
plant is to be planted, from twelve to
fourteen inches wider than the roots
will reach.

" In lifting laurels, and other ever-

we have for some time practised what greens, always bind up the plant with
we terra the U'<ashing in-system, which strong straw ropes, tying one end of the
has been attended with success in every rope to one of the strong branches in
instance. Indeed, I doubt not that by the ceijtre of the plant, and, taking up
this method trees of considerable size all the branches, draw into as small a
may be removed, at any season of the compass as possible, without injuring
year, with safety. Towards the latter the plant. Clear the roots, and, sup-
end of last May I had occasion to form posing the plant to be a common laurel,
a block or screen, in a situation fully six or eight feet high, begin as many
exposed to the sun, for which purpose feet from the main stem, and cut a
I transplanted a number of tall trees trench round the plant at the said dis-
and evergreens, not one of which was tance, as deep as it may be supposed
injured by the removal ; and early this the roots have gone down ; then reduce
May we disposed of upwards of a dozen , the ball by degrees with a fork, clean-

large horse-chestnuts, Spanish ditto,
limes, sycamore, and birches, all from
ten to eighteen feet high, in full leaf, to
a gentleman in this neighbourhood, the
planting of which I superintended. All

ing out the soil with a spade, and taking
care not to injure any of the roots or
fibres. These tie up in trusses with
matting, in order to prevent them, as
much as possible, from being injured.

at this time (a fortnight subsequently) , Clear the roots to within two or three

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597

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feet of the main stem, and then under- [ and cut clean off all those outside of

mine the solid piece that is left.

the ball, and afiain fill in the soil. In

When the plant is ready for re- about two years afterwards, the cut
moval, the strength for lifting it will roots w^ill have made firm young fibres,
depend upon its size, and the weight of which supply the plant with food when
the ball left, if any. When the plant it is transplanted. In lifting them, al-
is brought to the pit and placed in the ways try to get a good ball with them,
centre of it, untie the roots, and dress ' The Laurestinus is not very fond of
with a sharp knife any that may have! being removed without a ball. There
been bruised. Shorten strong ones, are but very few of the fir tribe that can
that they may make young fibres, upon be transplanted after they have attained
which the welfare of the plant in a great the height of from six to sixteen feet;
measure depends. After dressing the i but the best are the silver, the spruce,
roots, lay them all carefully out round and the Weymouth pines. The silver
the pit. ' If there are one, two, or three i fir bears transplanting tolerably well,
layers of roots, as is often the case, keep j provided care is taken not to injure the
ea'ch layer by itself, and lay out the ' roots, which run horizontally near the
undermost first, taking care to spread surface. The spruce lifts well, even
out every fibre with the hand. On these ; when sixteen feet high ; and the Wey-
spread well-broken soil ; but in doing mouth pines from ten to twelve feet
this, care must be taken not to club the high. In lifting them always try to get
roots together. After the first layer of good balls v\ith them, keeping their
roots is well covered proceed with the roots as entire as possible, and making
next, and so on until all is finished. ' the pits wherein they are to be planted
" After transplanting, never give the large, so as to get all their roots spread
plants water oftener than once, which out as regularly as possible ; when
is immediately after the operation of covered, water in the same manner as
planting is performed. Many young evergreen shrubs. In lifting and trans-
trees and shrubs are destroyed (after planting hard-wooded trees, such as

having been transplanted) by the fre
quent application of water in dry
weather. After the roots are all well
covered, leave the pit three or four
inches unfilled, and apply the water
according to the state of the soil, and

oaks, &c., keep their roots as entire as
possible, and shorten in any strong
ones ; they should be well watered. It
is very essential to the welfare of plants
that have been transplanted to have
them well supported to prevent them

size of the plant. To a shrub, that from shaking with the wind, &c. For
covers about four square yards of trees from ten to twenty feet high, use
ground (if the soil is not very moist), three poles, set up in the form of a tri-
give about eight common sized water- angle ; roll a straw rope round the stem
ing potfuls, and so on for every square of the tree, for the poles to rest on, as
yard of ground covered. The only it prevents them from hurting the bark ;
treading to be permitted is merely what then, after tying the poles firmly to the
may take place in going round them in tree, and fixing them in the ground, the
taking away the rope and spreading out work is finished. For plants of smaller
the branches in their original position, size use small rope, tied in the same
The above remarks apply well to the manner to the tree, and fixed to stakes
common and Portugal laurel, and also driven into the ground, aft.er the man-
to deciduous trees and shrubs in gene- ner of tent ropes.

ral. A few kinds that are difficult to "No doubt the summer months are
remove without balls when they are not proper for transplanting, therefore
large plants, are the following: — the : it should be avoided if possible. From
holly is one that is impatient of being i October to April, all shrubs, &c., may
removed without a ball, and in free ' be lifted with safety. November is
light soils it will not lift with one. The ' preferable for lifting large plants, as
best method with it is this. Two years those planted about that time always
before removal, open a trench round the send out young roots during winter;
plant about two feet from the main stem frequently by February, from one to
(more or less, according to its size), three inches long. — Card. Chron.
Two feet will do for a plant six feet j T R A P A. Four species. Aquatic
high. Go as deep as there are roots, ' plants. Green-house, stove, and hardy

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annuals and biennials. Seeds. Rich
loamy soil, in water.

TRAVELER'S JOY. Clematis vi-
talha.

TRAVELER'S JOY. Clematis vi-
orna.

TREACLE MUSTARD. Clypeola.

TREE CELANDINE. Bocconiafru-

icSCB7XS

TREE GUARDS. The following are
cheap and effectual. Mr. W. Brown,
gardener at Merevale Hall, uses stakes

wind blow as it may, for the guard
moves freely with the tree in every di-
rection."— Gard. Chron.

TREES are a chief material in land-
scape gardening. Trees and shrubs
are of different shapes, colours, and
growths.

" The varieties in their shapes," says
Mr. Whateley, " may be reduced to the
following heads. Some thick with
branches and foliage have almost an
appearance of solidity, as the beach.

about the thickness of the wrist, seven ! the elm, the lilac, and seringa. Others
feet in length, and tolerably straight: j thin of boughs and of leaves, seem light
he chops each a little flat on one side, i and airy, as the ash, and the arbele,tlie
gets some iron hooping a little thicker | common arbor vitte, and the tamarisk,
than coopers are in the habit of using i " There is a mean betwixt the two cx-
for barrels ; he punches holes through [ tremes, very distinguishable from both,

as in the bladder-nut, and the ashen-
leaved maple. They may again be di-

it six inches apart (with one near each
end), nails it to the stakes on the chop-
ped side, one foot from the top of! vided into those whose branches begin

them, and one foot from the bottom ;
then raises it and bends it circularly

from the ground, and those which shoot
up in a stem before their branches begin.

round the tree, observing that the hoops Trees which have some, and not much

are placed inside nearest the tree ; the
holes left at each end of the hoop are
then clenched up with a nail, and the
guard is then complete. — Gard. Chron.
The following plan is somewhat simi-
lar:— " Procure stakes of ash or larch,
s\x feet in length, or more if requisite,
and about two inches in diameter, and
bore holes through the tops and bot-
toms, about one foot from each end.
Get a similar hole drilled up the centre
of a stake, and saw it off in lengths of
two inches, or rather less ; pass a stron

clear stem, as several of the firs, belong
to the former class; but a very short
stem will rank as a shrub, such as the
althaea in the latter.

" Of those whose branches begin from
the ground, some rise in a conical figure,
as the larch, the cedar of Lebanon, and
the holly. Some swell out in the mid-
dle of their growth, and diminish at both
ends, as the Weymouth pine, the moun-
tain ash, and the lilac; and some are
irregular and bushy from the top to the
bottom, as the evergreen oak, the Vir-

loosely, leaving plenty of space for
growth. Place it round the tree, and

wire or thick tarred string through one j ginian cedar, and Guelder rose. There
stake, by the holes, at the top and at | is a great difference between one whose
the bottom, then pass it through the ! base is very large, and another whose
hole made in one of the two inch pieces \ base is very small, in proportion to its
at each end, and then through another j height; the cedar of Lebanon and the
stake, separating each stake at top and , cypress, are instances of such a differ-
bottom by a piece of wood, until you [ ence, yet in both the branches begin
leave enough to surround the tree | from the ground.

" The heads of those which shoot up
into a stem, before their branches be-
ftsten the ends of the wire or string. ] gin, sometimes are slender cones, as of
This guard is much the same as a cradle i many firs, sometimes are broad cones,
put round the neck of a blistered horse, i as of the horse-chestnut, sometimes they
to prevent his gnawing the irritated j are round, as of the stone pine, and
part. The stakes merely rest on the 1 most sorts of fruit trees; and sometimes
ground, and should be cut quite flat at ' irregular, as of the elm. Of this last
the bottom, to prevent their sticking ^kind there are many considerable va-
into the ground. At the upper end they ' rieties.

should have a sharp slanting cut with a "The branches of some grow hori-
bill-hook, and threaded with the slope zontally, as of the oak. In others they
towards the tree. The motion of the tend upwards, as in the almond, and in
tree will not in any degree be impeded ; ! several sorts of broom, and of willows,
and the bark cannot be injured, let the , In others they fall, as in the lime and

TRE

599

TRE

the acncia; and in some of these last dark green. The dark green must be
they incline obliquely, as in many of the the largest, the light green the next in
firs; in some they hang directly down, extent, and the yellow green the least

in the weeping willow,
"These are the most obvious great
distinctions in the shapes of trees and

of all.

"From those combinations, the agree-
lents between particular tints may be

shrubs. The difference between shades known. A light green may be next
of green cannot be so considerable, but either to a yellow or a brown green, and

a brown to a dark green; all in consider-
able quantities, and a little rim of dark
green may border on a red or a light
green.

" Further observations will show, that
the yellow and the white greens connect

these also will be found well deserving
of attention.

"Some are of a dark green, as the
horse-chestnut and the yew. Some of a
light green, as the lime and the laurel.
Some of a green tinged with brown, as

the Virginian cedar. Some of a green easily; but that large quantities of the
tinged with white, as the arbele and the light, the yellow, or the white greens,
sage tree. And some of a green tinged do not mix well with a large quantity
with yellow, as the ashen-leaved maple ' also of the dark green; and that to form
and the Chinese arbor vita;. The varie- ! a pleasing mass, either the dark green
gated plants also are generally entitled must be reduced to a mere edging, or a
to be classed with the white or the ycl- brown or an intermediate green must be
low, by the strong tincture of the one interposed ; that the red, the brown, and
or the' other of those colours on their ^ the intermediate greens agree among
leaves. ' themselves, and that either of them may

" The fall of the leaf is the time to ' be joined to any other tint ; but that the
learn the species, the order, and the red green will bear a larger quantity of
proportion of tints, which blended, will the light than of the dark green near it;
form beautiful masses; and, on the other nor does it seem so proper a mixture
hand, to distinguish those which are in- I w^ith the white green as with the rest.

compatible near together.

In massing these tints, an attention must

" The peculiar beauty of the tints of be constantly kept up to their forms,
red, cannot then escape observation, that they do not lie in large stripes one
and the want of them throughout the beyond another; but that either they be
summer months must be regretted ; but quite intermingled, or, which is gene-
thc want, though it cannot perfectly, i rally more pleasing, that considerable
may partially be supplied, for plants ' pieces of different tints, each a beautiful
have a permanent and an accidentaP figure, be in different proportions placed
colour. The permanent is always some near together.

shade of green, but any other may be J " Exactness in the shapes must not be
the accidental colour; and there is none attempted, for it cannot be preserved ;
which so many circumstances concur to j but if the great outlines be well drawn,
produce as a red. It is assumed in sue- little variations afterwards occasioned
cession by the bud, the blossom, the by the growth of the plants, will not
berry, the bark, and the leaf. Some- I spoil them. Another effect attainable
times it profusely overspreads, at other by the aid of the different tints, is found-
times it dimly tinges the plant, and a ed on the first principles of perspective;
reddish-green is generally the hue of objects grow faint as they retire from
those plants on which it lasts long or the eye; a detached clump or a single

frequently returns.

tree of the lighter green will, therefore.

"Admitting this, at least for many seem farther off than one equidistant of

months in the year, among the charac- a darker hue, and a regular gradation

teristic distinctions, a large piece of red- from one tint to another will alter the

green, with a narrow edging of dark apparent length of a continued planta-

green, along the further side of it, and I tion, according as the dark or the light

beyond that, a piece of light green, still greens begin the graduation,

larger than the first, will be found to " Single trees scattered about a lawn,

compose a beautiful mass. Another, cast it into an agreeable shape, and to

not less beautiful, is a yellow green, produce that shape, each must be placed

nearest to the eye, beyond that a light with an attention to the rest ; they may

green, then a brown green, and lastly a stand in particular directions, and col-

TRE

600

TRE

lectively form agreeable figures, or be-
tween several straggling trees, little
glades may open full of variety and
beauty. The lines they trace are fainter
than those which larger plantations de-
scribe, but then their forms are their

planted in spring. The old roots are
best to plant again for a crop of bulbs,
as they are most certain to run to
stems. If the bulbs he planted earlier
than as above directed, they are apt to
push up the same season and exhaust

own ; they are therefore absolutely free themselves, without producing either
from all appearance of art ; any dispo- i good ofisets or bulbs ; but, on the other
sition of them, if it be but irregular, is ! hand, by planting the old roots in the
sure to be natural. previous autumn, or early in the spring,

" The situations of single trees, is the j they will produce good bulbs the same
first consideration, and differences in ' year. They must be inserted in rows
the distances between them, their great- I twelve inches asunder, in holes six
est variety. In shape, they admit of no ' inches apart and two deep, a single
choice but that which their species offset or bulb being put in each. Those
afford: greatness often, beauty often, ; planted in autumn will shoot up leaves
sometimes mere solidity, and now and early in the spring, and have their
then peculiarity alone, recommends bulbs fit for gathering in June or the
them. Their situations will also fre- , beginning of July; those inserted in
quently determine the species; if they , the spring, will make their appearance
are placed before a continued line of; later, and will be in production at the
•wood only to break it, they should com- | close of July or early in August ; they
monly be similar to the trees in that , must not, however, be gathered for
wood, they will else lose their connec- j keeping or planting until the stalks de-
tion, and not affect the outline which j cay, at which time, or in the spring
they are intended to vary ; but if they - also, if only of one year's growth, the
are designed to be independent objects, I roots may be taken up and parted if
they are as such more discernible, when required for planting ; but when of two
distinguished both in their shapes and | or three years' continuance, they must
their greens, from any plantations about | at all events be reduced in size, other-
ihem. After all, the choice, especially , wise they grow in two large and spin-
in large scenes, is much confined to the ' dling bunches ; but the best plan is to
trees on the spot; young clumps from ' make a fresh plantation annually with
the first have some, and soon produce a I single offsets. The only cultivation
considerable effect ; but a young single ' necessary is to keep them clear of
tree for many years has none at all, and \ weeds ; and when the stems run up, to
it is often more judicious to preserve one j give them the support of stakes,
already growing, though not exactly] The bulbs, when gathered, must be
such as might be wished, either in itself | gradually and carefully dried in a shady
or in its situation, than to plant in its ', place ; and if kept perfectly free from
stead another, which may be a finer | moisture, will continue in a good state
object, and better placed, in a distant] until the following May.
futurity." See Clump, Avenue, Grove
and Wood.

TREE MALLOW. Lavateraarhorea.

TREE OF SADNESS. Nyctanthes
arbor tristis.

TREE or CANADA ONION. Allium

TRELLIS or TREILLAGE, is an
arrangement of supporters upon which
to train plants.

Espalier Trellis. — The cheapest, the
easiest, and soonest made, is that
formed with straight poles or stakes, of
proliferum. This, like the Ciboule, is j ash, oak, or chestnut, in lengths of from
without a bulbous root, but throws out i five to six or seven feet, driving them

numerous offsets. Its top bulbs are
greatly prized for pickling, being con-
sidered of superior flavour to the com-
mon onion for that purpose, as well as
others in which that species is employed.
Tiine and Mode of Planting. — It is
propagated both by the root offsets,
which may be planted during March
and April, or in September and October

in the ground in a range about a foot
distant, all of an equal height ; and then
railed along the top with the same kind
of poles or rods, to preserve the whole
form in a regular position. They should
be full an inch and a half thick, and
having pointed them at one end, drive
them with a mallet into the ground in a
straight range, close along the row of

and from the top bulbs, which are best] trees, a foot deep at least. To render

TRE

601

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Ireillage still stronger, run two, three, ' was effected over the walls of Sir
or more ranges of rods, along the back Joseph Banks' house; and as those
part of the uprights, a foot or eighteen branches were always loaded with
inches asunder, fastening them to the fruit, the practice was soon imitated,
upright stakes, either with pieces of and gave rise, among other things, to
strong wire twisted two or three times what is called balloon training. This
round, or by nailing them. ' produces an abundance of (lowers, in

When the treillagc is finished, it is the most sterile trees, and of fruit, when
advisable to paint tlie whole to render the branches are not exposed to severe
it both more beautiful and durable ; and night frosts, which kill the blossoms.

the durability is greatly increased by
charring the ends of the uprights before
driving them into the soil.

Espalier Trellis made of cast iron

Just the same conseiiuences follow the
training of climbing plants downwards ;
they are compelled to yield a far greater
crop of dowers than if permitted to

rods, is much more durable, and neater, ' grow at full length. The many kinds
than that made of wood. I of trellises that have been invented for

Trellis for Climbers. — These have I this purpose, are admirably adapted for
been greatly improved, or rather created ; compelling plants to grow upside down;
within these few years, for ten years ago ' for the branches can be bent in all di-
we had nothing but stakes and rods. ' rections, over and over again, and the
The following observations and designs ' more they are entangled, the prettier
are from the Gardener's Chronicle: — , is the effect produced.

" The beauty of green-houses has
been wonderfully increased, by the
contrivance of compelling these un-
manageable rambling scrambling plants,
to grow down upon themselves, or
round and round a circular trellis, so
as to be compelled to clothe themselves
all over with foliage, and to present
immediately to the eye whatever flow-
ers they produce. Every one who has
ever witnessed the exhibitions in the
garden of the Horticultural Society,
must have been struck with the extra-
ordinary beauty of the Russelias, and
Tropaolums, Lichyas, and Ilardenber-
gias, red, yellow, crimson, and blue,
which have graced the stands of even
the least extensive growers. It is not
because some climbing plants require
to have their roots confined in garden
pots, nor because being, in the ma-
jority of cases, inhabitants of tropical
forests, they demand more bottom-heat
than they can obtain in this country,
when planted in the open border of a
conservatory that the modern plan of
distributing their branches over the
trellis of a flower-pot, is to be so much
commended. Nor is it because the
flowers, which if the branches are un-
controlled, arc carried out of sight by
the excessive length of the stems, are
thus brought immediately before the
eye ; but there is another great advan-
tage in this practice. Gardeners need
not be told that the immediate effect of
compelling branches to grow down- '
wards is to make them bloom. This I

" The accompanying forms will be
Tiz. 169.

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602

admirably adapted for Gompholobium,
Tropceolum tricolor, and other plants
possessed of scanty foliage, whose
branches require to be closely trained
to produce a good effect.

"The following cut will show the
manner in which the wire-trellis for
climbing plants, is attached to the pots,
a matter of great importance, and of
•which the separate plans that have
been proposed, and some of which are
published, convey an incorrect idea.

Fig. 170.

" It will be seen that a strong wire
ring is carried round the pot, a little
above its bottom. To this a sufficient
number of upright wires are attached
all round. The upright wires are
pressed down upon the surface of the
pot, till they reach the rim, over which
they are firmly bent till they reach the
highest point of the rim, or are even
bent a little within it. At this point
they are secured by a second ring of
stout wire, adjusted as in the drawing,
vhich having been done, the uprights
are directed upwards, and fashioned
into the pattern required. By these
means, a sort of collar is formed upon
the rim of the pot, >vhich prevents the
trellis from slipping downwards, while
at the same .time, the lowest ring of
■wire keeps it from swinging and sway-
ing backwards and forwards." — Gard.
Chron.

Umbrella Trellis is a form excellently
adapted for Wisteria sinensis, and other
climbers or shrubs having long racemes
of flowers. The following (Fig. 171) is
its form.

Hothouse Trellis for training vines
near the glass, is usually made of thin
rods of deal or of iron, placed about a
foot apart, and fastened to the frame-
work of the building. Mr. Long, Beau-

fort Place, Chelsea, has invented a
movable wire trellis, by which the vines
may be lowered from the roof, or placed
at any angle, without injuring the vines.
This is an excellent mode of removing
them from the influence of extreme ex-
terior heat or cold. A still further im-
provement would be to have the verti-
cal rods movable round the rod horizon-
tally fixed to the rafter or roof, for then
the whole trellis might be raised to an
angle with, or even close to the glass,
whenever sun to the vine upon the trel-
lis, or shade to the plants within the
house was desirable.

Trellis for JValks.—The following
observations made by Mr. Loudon,
when criticising the gardens of Lord
Selsey, at VVestdean, comprise all that
need be said upon this kind of struc-
ture.

" Among the contrivances adopted
for giving interest to the walks, and to
separate one scene from another, are
portions of walk covered with arched
trellis work. One of these is grown
over with climbing roses ; another with
laburnums, which in the flowering sea-
son has a remarkably fine aspect, few
colours looking so well in the shade as
yellow, because, with the exception of
white, none suffer so little from the ab-
sence of light. This laburnum trellis
has a new feature, that of a table bor-
der of trellis work intended to be co-
vered with ivy; we have no doubt its
effects will be good, especially in win-
ter. We must remark some circuni-
I stances in the construction of garden

TRE

603

T R I

trellises, which should be ample in their i important consideration where the sub-

dimensions, strictly geometrical in all
their forms, and most accurately and
substantially executed. Nothing can be
more miserable in its effect on the eye
than a low narrow archway, the support
leaning in different directions, and the
curve of the ground plan and of the
roof in no marked style of determinate
line. The most accurate carpentry and
smithwork ought always to be employed
in such structures, otherwise they had
much better be omitted as garden deco-
rations. Some attempt forming trel-
lises over walks with long hazel rods,
but nothing can be meaner than the
effect: such rod trellis works or ar-
bours are at best fit for a cottage gar-
den, or a hedge alehouse." — Gard.

TREMBLING ASPEN. Populus
tremula.

TRENCHING is one of the readiest
modes in the gardener's power for re-
novating his soil. The process is thus
conducted : —

<' From the end of the piece of
ground where it is intended to begin,
take out a trench two spades deep, and
twenty inches wide, and wheel the
earth to the opposite end to fill up and
finish the last ridge. Measure off the
width of another trench, then stretch
the line and mark it out with the spade

soil is poor or bad, the bottom soil is
enriched and loosened for the penetra-
tion and nourishment of the roots, and
allowing them to descend deeper, they
are not so liable to suffer from drought
in summer; strong soil is rendered ca-
pable of absorbing more moisture, and
yet remains drier at the surfiice by the
water passing down more rapidly to
the subsoil, and it ensures a thorough
shifting of the soil.'- — Gard. Chron.

In all trenching, whether one, two,
or more spades deep, always, previous
to digging, put the top of each trench
two or three inches deep or more, with
all weeds and other litter at the bottom
of the open one, which not only makes
clean digging, and increases the depth
o^ loose soil, but all weeds and their
seeds are regularly buried at such a
depth, that the weeds themselves will
rot, and their seeds cannot vegetate.

TREVIRANL\. See Achimenes.

T R E V I R A N I A pulchella. Stove
herbaceous perennial. Division. Light
rich soil.

TREVOA. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

TREWIA' nudiflora. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

TRIBULUS. Eight species. Green-

Proceed in this way until the whole of I house and hardy trailing annuals or

the ridges are outlined, after which
begin at one end and fill up the bottom
of the first trench with the surface or
' top spit' of the second one ; then take
the bottom ' spit' of the latter, and
throw it in such a way over the other

stove evergreen trailers; the annuals
increase by seeds, and common soil
will suit them ; the evergreens increase
by cuttings or seeds, and grow best in
loam and peat.

TRICHOCEPHALUS. Three spe-

as to form an elevated sharp-pointed ; cies. Greenhouse evergreen shrubs

ridge. By this means a portion of fresh
soil is annually brought on the surface
to the place of that which the crop of
the past season may have in some mea-
sure exhausted." — Gard. Chron.

Bastard-Trenctiing is thus perform-
ed :—

" Open a trench two feet and a half
or a yard wide, one full spit, and the
shoveling deep, and wheel the soil
from it to where it is intended to finish

the piece, then put in the dung and dig . loam and peat.

Young cuttings. Sandy peat.

TRICHOCLADUS crinitus. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Young cut-
tings. Sandy loam and peat.

TRICHOMANES. Two species.
Ferns. Hardy and stove herbaceous
perennials. Division or seeds. Loam
and peat.

TRICHONEMA. Sixteen species.
Green-house, hardy and half-hardy
bulbous perennials. Offsets. Sandy

TRICHO'PETALUM gracile. Half-
Division.

it in with the bottom spit in the trench,

then fill up this trench with the top hardy herbaceous perennial

spit, &c., of the second, treating it in Light rich soil.

like manner, and so on. The advan- TRICHOPILIA tortilis. Stove

tages of this plan of working the soil epiphyte. Division. Wood with a lil-

are, the good soil is retained at top, an , tie moss on the roots.

TRI

604

TRO

TRICHOSANTHES anguina. Snake
Gourd. Frame trailing annual. Seeds.
Common soil.

TRICHOSTEMA. Two species.
Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

TRICORYNE. Three species.
Greenhouse herbaceous perennials, ex-
cept T. simplex, a green-house biennial
increased by seeds, the other two by
division ; a light rich soil suits them all.

TRIDENTIA. Seven species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy
loam and brick rubbish.

TRIENTALIS. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division or
seeds. Light rich soil.

sited in a cabbage or cauliflower, the
young larva immediately eats its way to
the centre, on which it feeds till it is

; full grown, when it is about two inches
long, greenish or brownish green in

\ colour, with two rows of black spots
on the back. During the winter, it lies
beneath stones or clods of earth, and in
April or May it descends a few inches
below the surface, where it changes to
a reddish pupa, from which the perfect
moth emerges in June or July. The

i moth varies in size from two to two and
a half inches: the upper wings are
brownish or grayish, with an indistinct
kidney-shaped spot near the centre ;

TRIFOLIUM. Trefoil or Clover. ' the lower wings are bright yellow, with
One hundred and two species. All a narrow black band. The moth varies
hardy, chiefly annuals, some herba- considerably in its colour and markings,
ceous perennials, and a few deciduous, scarcely two individuals ever being ex-

Di- ! actly alike. The caterpillar, though it
most frequently is found on the cabbage
or cauliflower, yet sometimes does con-
Stove orchids. Division. Fibrous peat. ' siderable mischief to celery, and even
r ,^,T^„ . , . „ , ^^^ young leaves and flower-buds of

auriculas, primroses, and violets are

herbaceous, and annual trailers
vision or seeds. Common soi

TRIGONIDIUM. Four species

TRIGUERA ambrosiaca. Hardy an
nual. Seeds. Common soil.

TRILLIUM. Fifteen species. Hardy I destroyed by it. The only remedy we
tuberous-rooted perennials. Division ; can suggest is to search for and destroy

I them.'* — Gard. Chron.

TRIPHASIA trifoliata. Green-house

or seeds. Peaty soil.

M. F. Otto observes, that — " Seven
species are cultivated in our gardens, | evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings. Turfy
namely: Trillium sessile; T. erythro- ' \oa.m and peat.

carpum; T.pusilium; T. cernuum ; T.\ TRIPTILION. Two species. Hardy
erectum; T. pendulum ; a.nd T. grand i- annua.\s. Seeds. Common soil.
fiorum. Their cultivation is very sim- | TRISTANIA. Eight species. Green-
pie. They grow freely in the open air ! house evergreen trees and shrubs. Half
without covering, in shady places, and ripe cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand,
in a mixture composed of marsh or \ TRITELEIA. Three species. Halt-
heath soil, mixed with river sand. They ! hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets or

' " seeds. Peat, loam, and sand.

TRITOMA. Four species. Hardy
or half-hardy herbaceous perennials.
Suckers. Light rich soil.

TROCHETIA grandiflora. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich light
loam.

TROCHOCARPA laurina. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy
peat and turfy soil.

TROLLIUS. Globe Flower. Seven
species. Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Division or seeds. Light moist soil.

TROMOTRICHE. Five species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and brick rubbish.

TROP.EOLUM. Nasturtium. Four-
teen species. Green-house hardy and
half-hardy annuals, and evergreen
twiners. T. brachyceras and T. tube-
rosum are half-hardy tuberous-rooted

bloom abundantly every year, in April
and May, and are a great ornament to
our gardens; the tuberous roots spread
rapidly by the formation of lateral eyes,
so that after some years, if the plants
have not been removed, they will form
large handsome bushes. The seeds
ripen in August, and if sown imme-
diately, they will come up the following
year. They may be sown either in the
open ground, in a shady peat border, or
in pots. The stronger seedlings will
bloom in the third season." — Gard.
Chron.

TRIOPTERIS. Two species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Ripe cuttings.
Loam and peat.

TRIPH/ENIA pro«Mia. Yellow Un-
derwing Moth. Mr. Curtis says that
" its caterpillar is hatched in July or
August, and if the egg has been depo-

TRO

605

TRO

perennials. The green-house and half-
hardy species increase by cuttings, and
require a light rich soil. The annuals,
seeds only, and common soil. The
tuberous-rooted, cuttings, loam, and
peat. Some of the species require par-
ticular treatment, as follows: —

T. tricoloruin. — Mr. Falconer, gar-

of peat and sand, till within two inches
of the top, fill up with silver sand, and
water with a fine rose to settle it. Then
dibble in the cuttings all round, within
one inch of the rim, leaving about half
an inch of the cutting above the sand.
Place the pot on a shelf in the front of
the green-house, keep the sand con-

dener to A. Palmer, Esq., of Cheam, | stantly moist, taking care that the cut
enters fully into its cultivation. He ' linf^s are always erect. In the course
says that — " the soil best suited to it is | of two months many of them will throw
a mixture of loam, peat, and sand, with up shoots from under the sand. The
a small portion of soot; this mixture to pot should then be removed to a shady
be exposed to the influence of the sun situation out of doors. When the stems
from May until time to plant the tubers, decay, do not disturb the sand, but
About the latter end of June, or as soon | water sparingly. In October let them
as the decay of the stem and ripening j be placed in the green-house, when all
of the seed show that the circulation of i that have made small tubers will grow.

the sap has ceased, turn out the tubers
from the pots, and having carefully re-
moved the soil, put the tubers in flower
pans upon a shelf in a dry room. About
the beginning of September they pro-
duce their new stems; let them remain
until they have lengthened from twelve
to fifteen inches. Having well drained
a No. 12 pot, fill it up with the compost
to within four inches of the top, then
place the tuber in the centre of the pot,
and coil the stem or stems around, care-
fully filling up with the compost until
about two inches of the stem are left
above the soil. After potting, place the
pots on a stage out of doors, there to
remain till the middle of October, they
are then removed to the front of a cool
green-house, exposed to as much light
and air as can be given to them. With
respect to watering, keep them rather
moist than otherwise: when out of doors
they are freely exposed to rain. The

It is from these plants the best cuttings
are obtained in the spring. In the fol-
lowing May, turn the whole ball out of
the pot, in a warm situation in the open
ground. After they have finished their
growth, take them up and sift the ball
through a fine sieve, carefully picking
out the tubers. They are then treated
in all respects as the older tubers, and
will make fine flowering plants the fol-
lowing spring. The seeds before sow-
ing should be soaked in milk and water
twenty-four hours, and the outer shell
carefully removed ; they will under this
treatment grow much sooner and with
greater certainty. They should remain
in the seed pot until after they have
formed a tuber. A small stick can be
placed against each plant, to which it
will climb, and it serves to indicate the
place of the tuber when the stem is
dead. Many seeds will remain twelve
months before vegetating." — Card.

3ariy flower-buds should be picked off j Chron.
until the space allotted is covered, the T. moritzianum requires very similar
object being to have the greatest quan- treatment. Dr. Lindley directs that
tity of bloom atone time. When ne- — " After this plant has bloomed, water
cessarv, in their early growth, they may I should be gradually withheld from it,
be stopped to give a supply of laterals, and the pot containing the tubers should
At all times they should have plenty of be stored away in some dry situation,
air and light, more especially after they until the season for starting it into
show their flower-buds, for the joints | growth returns. The tubers should then
will be shorter, and consequently the ; be repotted and placed in a gentle heat."
flowers more close together. When in | — Gard. Chron.

bloom, care must be taken to shade I T. majus is the Nasturtium of our
from the midday sun, which \»ill pro- gardens. " The flowers and young
long their season of plenty: take off leaves are frequently eaten in salads;
the weak laterals that are not likely to they have a warm taste, like the corn-
flower, where about two inches long ; . mon Cress, hence the name of ^astur-
if with a heel so much the better. Any tiitm. The flowers are also used as a
time from February till May fill the pot garnish to dishes. The berries are
half full of crocksj then w I'th a mixture gathered green and pickled, in which

TRO

606

TRU

state, they form an excellent substitute
for capers.

" It should be planted on a warm
border in April, having soaked the seed
in warm water for twelve hours. The
usual mode of planting, is in hills three
feet apart each way, four seeds in a
hill ; two strong plants are sufficient to
remain ; when they commence running,
place brush around them to climb on.
When the berries attain full growth,
but whilst yet tender, they are plucked
with the foot stalk attached, and pre-
served in vinegar." — Rural Register.

TROWEL. This implement, made of
iron from twelve to six inches long in
the plate, and half as broad, hollowed
like a scoop, and fixed on a short handle
to hold with one hand, is convenient in

latter cultivates the Piedmont Truffle,
and his process is this : — He either em-
ploys the soil where the truffle is found,
or he prepares an artificial soil of seven
parts good garden earth; two, well
pulverized clayey soil ; and one, oak
sawdust — intimately mixed. Decayed
oak or beech leaves would be better
probably than the sawdust. If the na-
tural soil was used, he trenched it two
feet, removing all the large stones, and
adding oak sawdust, if necessary, and
about one- tenth of powdered snail shells,
if the soil was too stiff.

" Choosing an aspect rather exposed
to the north than the south, where no
reflected rays could fall upon it, with
every precaution to insure its being
thoroughly soaked with pure rain-water,

removing small plants, with a ball or and after waiting a day or two till it

lump of earth about their roots, lifting
bulbous flower roots after the flowering
is past in summer; planting bulbs in
patches or little clumps about the bor-
ders, as also for digging small patches
in the borders, for sowing hardy annual
flower seeds ; likewise for filling mould
into small pots, stirring the surface of
the earth in pots, and fresh earthing
them when necessary. And such a
trowel is likewise very convenient for
pointing over or stirring the ground be-
tween rows of small close-placed plants
jn beds or borders ; are made between
about twelve inches long in the plate,
and six broad, narrowing gradually to
the bottom, the other six or eight inches
in the plate, and four inches broad,
narrowing considerably towards the bot-
tom, to introduce between small plants.

TROXIMON. Two species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division. Com-
mon soil.

TRUE PARSLEY. Apium Petroso-
linvm.

TRUE SERVICE. Pyrm Sorbus.

was in a proper state of moisture, he
made rows half a foot deep, and in
these, at six inches distance, he placed
good and sound truffles, each of them
being surrounded with two or three
handfuls of oak sawdust, taking care to
mark the rows accurately. Ridges were
then made over each row, to prevent
the truffles being injured by too abund-
ant moisture. The bed was then left
till the following autumn, with no other
precaution than, in dry weather, to take
care that it did not become too dry.
The result, we are informed, was an
abundant harvest, every year, from Oc-
tober to January." — Gard. Chron.

Bradley, writing, in 1726, of the culti-
vation of the truffle in England, says
that —

" The truffle may be easily cultivated
where there are woods or coppices of
oak or hazel, and where the soil is not
too stifle, or inclining to chalk. The soil
where they are most found is a reddish
sandy loam ; this will then be the best
for our purpose, especially if it has lain

TRUFFLE. Tufeer mng-rea^wm. Pied- ; long uncultivated. When we are thus

montese Truffle ; T. Borchii, Italy ; T.
moschatum, Musk Truffle, near Bath

provided with the proper soil, we must
be sure to let it lie undisturbed till we

T. cibarium. Common Truffle, England. I are ready to plant, which will be in the
But besides the tubers there are other] months of October, November, and De-
edible fungi known as trufiles, viz., Hi/- I cember, if the weather be open; for
drohoUtes tulasnei, Spye Park, Wilts ; then the truffles are to be found in their
Mclngomster Broomeianus, Red Truf- ' full ripeness, and then, likewise, one

f3e, near Bath.

may find them in a state of putrefaction,

These edible fungi have not yet been which is the time when the seeds are
cultivated in England, though the Prus- : prepared for vegetation. It is in the
gians have succeeded in making them a ' last state that one ought to gather truf-
garden tenant, and Comte de Borch has fles for planting, or at least they should
been equally successful in Italy. The i be in perfect ripeness.

TRU

607

TU L

"The proper soil, and these rotten i stalks united at one common centre,
truffles, being found, we may begin our and thus spring from the root or branch
work as follows: — Open a spot of on one stem, as in the auricula, polyan-
ground, of a convenient space, and thus, and cowslip. See Pip.
take out the earth about eight inches j TUBE FLOWER. Clerodendron si-
deep, and screen it, that it maybe as phonanthus.

fine as possible ; then lay about two or j TUBER eibarium, the well known
three inches thick of this fine earth at i truffle. It grows under ground, in light
the bottom ofthe trench or open ground, ; dry soils.

and upon it lay some of the overripe [ TUBEROSE. Polyanthes tubcrosa.
truffles, about a foot and a half distance | Dr. Lindley says that, —
from one another ; and, as soon as pos- ^ " To tlower the tuberose in the open
sible, prepare a thin mud, made of the , air the bulbs should be started in a
screened earth and water, well stirred moderately warm frame, and planted
and mixed together, and pour it on the , out towards the end of May, in a sunny
truffles till the open ground is quite , sheltered border. The bottom of the
filled up. By this means, in a few hours, j border should consist principally of well
the ground will be as closely settled ! decomposed manure, and should be
about the truffles as if it had never been [ covered, to the depth of six inches, with
dug or disturbed at all, and you may ' light sandy loam, in which the bulbs
expect a good crop in due time. You ; should be planted. Success, in this
must, however, take care to choose ' case, will depend greatly upon the sea-
your spots of ground in woods or cop- ; son, and upon having good bulbs, which
pices, or such places as are shaded with ; should be planted just as they are re

trees. Their favorite tree is the oak, or
the ilex or evergreen oak, as the elm is
the favourite ofthe Morille.

" Notwithstanding these statements,
it is quite certain that, at present, the
art of cultivating the truffle is not known

ceived. When grown in pots the same
soil should be used, the plants should be
kept near the glass, and they should re-
ceive a liberal supply of water when
growing." — Card. Chron.

TUCKERMANIA maritima. Hardy

in England; and it will remain unknown, herbaceous perennial. Division. Sandy

probably, until we have discovered how
its spawn can be prepared, as for culti-
vating the mushroom.'- — Card. Chron.
Mr. Gower says he recommended an
old trutfle-hunter " to bury, at the pro-

loam.

I TULBAGHIA. Five species. Green-
house bulbous perennials. Offsets or
seeds. Sandy loam and peat.

TULIP A. Twenty-four species.

per depth, some of his trutfles that were Hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets. Rich

in a state of decay and unfit for the
table, under one of the unproductive
trees sutlicient in stature and in umbra-
geous development. At the beginning
of next winter, when his visit was re-
peated, he sought for Mr. G., and told
him, with great satisfaction, that the
scheme had answered ; for he had found
two or three pounds of excellent truffles

loam and sand.

TULIP. Tulipa Gesneriane. From
this species are descended our innume-
rable garden varieties. Of these it is
needless to do more than ofl'er a selec-
tion ; and the most judgmatical is the
following, by Mr. Slater, florist, of Chel-
tenham Hill, near INIanchester.

The first class contains all that are

beneath the hitherto barren tree. By worthy of a place in any stand of twelve

following this example, proprietors of or twenty-four varieties, and possess

trees adapted to truffles, and where the every requisite of a fine tulip. In the

proper trees have been planted, may, in second the varieties have either fine

a short period, do that which a lapse of forms, but tinged stamens, or else have

years, unassisted, would not effect.

rather long cups and pure bottoms and

" Of all trees the cedar of Lebanon is stamen. Those in the third class are

the most favourable to the growth of the such as deserve a place in any collec-
truffle." — Gard. Chron. \ tion, but are not calculated for a south-

TRUMPET FLOWER. Bignonia. era stage.

TRUSS is the florist's name for what

botanists call an umbel of flowers, a dis- fikst class.

tinctive title for that mode of inflores- Rose. — Aglaia; Amelia; Bacchus,

cence where several flowers have their alias Atlas, and Rose Baccu ; Carnuse

TUL

608

TUL

de Craix ; Catalina, alias Ponceau tres j zio, alias Abercrombie, Captain White ;

Blanc, and Cerise Blanche ; Cerise & | Strong's Admiral White, and Strong's

belle forme ; Galatea (Slater's) ; Tri- | Admiral Black ; Shakspeare, alias Gar-

omphe Royale, alias Heroine, La Belle rick and Edmund Kean ; Strong's King.

Nannette, and La Cherie; Madame Ves- j

tris, alias Clarke's Clio, and Goldham's | third class.

Princess Sophia ofGJoucester; Ponceau

Roses. — Admiral Kingsbergen ; Alex-
tres blanc (Dutch); Queen of Hearts | andre Ic Roi ; Camilhis ; Claudiana ;

Comte deVergennes; Duchess of Cla-
rence ; Emily ; Fleur de Dame ; Grand
Roi de France; Incomparable Hebe,
alias Iphigenia and Rose Hebe ; Lady
Wilmot; La Vandyke; Lavinia (Clarke's);
Lilas en Cerise; Maria (Goldham's) ;
Mary Ann (Lawrence's) ; Rose Monty,
Rose Bianca,Rose Quarto, Rose Primo

(Franklin's); Rose Brillant.

Byblomens. — Anacreon (Slater's); Bi-
jou des Amateurs ; Byzantium (Lau-
rence's); Camarine; Eveque d'Amboise;
Holmes' King; Invincible (Franklin's);
Mentor, aZia* Reine de Sheba; Musa-
dora ; Pandora ; Roi de Siam, alias Aca-
pulco ; Salvator Rosa; Violet Cook;

Violet Sovereign ; Violet Quarto, alias ' bien du Noir, and Rose Unique ; Sarah
Violet Alexander; Violet Brun; Zenobi;i ! (Lawrence's) ; Strong's Daphne, very

(Slater's).

Bizarres. — Catafalque (Old Dutch) ;
Charbonnier; Curion (Slater's); Duke
of Hamilton (Slater's) ; Fabius (Lau-
rence's) ; Glencoe ; lago (Laurence's) ;
Marcellus ; Napoleon (Walker's) ; Poly-
phemus, alias Goldham's Albion, Ulys-
ses, and Nourri Effendi.

SECOND CLASS.

Roses. — Brulante Eclatante; Catha-
rine; Cerise Royal, oZ/as Manteau Ducal,
Ponceau Brilliant, and Moore's Rose ;
Elizabeth Jeffries ; Lady Crewe ; Lady
Middleton ; Lac ; Manon ; Mason's Ma-
tilda, alias Strong's French Rose ; Pre-
tiosa, alias Thunderbolt; Queen Boadi-
cea ; Rose Camuse.

Byblomens. — Ambassador, alias Atlas
and Rose Baccu ; Bailleu van Menvede ;
Bienfait Incomparable; Beauty (Buck-
ley's); Buckley's No. 46; Cleopatra;
Comte de Provence ; David, a/(as David
Pourpre ; Davy's Queen Charlotte ; Due
de Bourdeaux ; General Barneveld ; Im-
peratrixFlorum; Incomparable Daphne;
Incomparable, (Rowbottom's, alias
Haigh's ;) Lancashire Hero (Buckley's);
Lord Denbigh; Lord of the Isle (Sla-
ter's); Lewold; Louis XVI.; Ne plus
Ultra; Prince Elie ; Queen Victoria
(Wilmer's); Rubens ; Sir E. Knatchbull;
Thalia (Clarke's); Violet Sovereign.

Bizarres. — Charles X., alias Water-
loo, Bartlett's Platoff, La Conquerante,
Gabel's Glory, Royal Sovereign, and
Duke of Lancaster; Catafalque Surpasse;
Carter's Leopold; Donzelli, alias Wells'
Lord Brougham ; Leonatus Posthumus;

Lord Milton ; Lord Lilford ; Leonardo flowers, may not be understood by all
da Vinci; Optimus (Hutton's),aZZas Sur- j readers, they are here defined,
passe Optimus; Richard Cobden ; San- | Florists call tulips seedZZng^s until they

like if not the same as La Vandyke;
Thalestris; Vesta; Walworth, aZZas Glo-
ry of Walworth, and Glaphyra.

Byblomens. — Alexander Magnus,
alias Alcon and Grand Marvel ; Ange-
lina; Bagnel, called also Black Bagnel ;
Baluruc ; Black Tabbart; Catharina ;
Chef d'cBUvre ; Competitor; Czarine ;
Ely's Queen Victoria; Fair Flora
(Buckley's); Glory (Buckley's); Gro-
tius; Imperatrice de Maroc, alias Lady
of the Lake, and Valerius Publicola ;
Imperatrice des Romaines, alias Du-
chesse de Modena; Incomparable Pre-
mier Noble, alias Grand Czidt; La belle
Narene; La Mere Bruin Incomparable;
Laurence's Friend ; Nectar ; Passe
Reine d'Egypt; Patty (Lawrence's);
Queen of Beauties ; Queen Charlotte ;
Reid's Sir John Moore ; Reine d'Hon-
grie ; Reine des Tulips; Roscius; Su-
perbeen Noir, alias Lysander Noir;
Transparent Noir; Washington, alias
Rodney; Violet h belle forme, Violet
Imperial, Violet Pompeuse, Violet Rou-
geatre, Violet Triumphant, and Violet
Wallers.

Bizarres. — Bolivar (Lawrence's) ;
Carlo Doici; Catafalque Superieure ;
Duke of Wellington ; Emperor of Aus-
tria ; Jubilee (Rider's) ; Sir Sidney
Smith, alias Magnum Bonum, Trebi-
sonde, Demetrius, and Franklin's
Washington ; Osiris ; Prince Albert
(Groom's). — Gard. Chron.

It will be observed, that tulips are
divided into different classes, and as
the characteristics of these, as well as
some other terms applicable to these

T U L

609

TU L

have bloomed; after this those pre- should commence at the hottnm ofeach

served on account of their good form petal, the deepest marking being on the

and habit, as well as the offsets they top, and equal in every one. The

produce, are called breeders. After flamed flower should likewise possess

some years tiie petals of these become this feather; with a rich beam up the

striped, and they are then said to be rib of each petal, branching off oa

broken. If the striping is good, they either side, touching the feather, and at

are said to have a good strain ; if it be the same time preserving sufficient of

inferior, they are described as having the ground colour to show it to advan-

a bad strain. A rectified tulip is syno-
nymous with a tulip havinga good strain.
A feathered tulip has a dark-coloured

tage. A riame without a feather, in
general, presents a star-like appear-
ance, which, though not so correct as

edge round its petals, gradually becom- the other, is still beautiful. The stem

ing lighter on the margin next the cen- should be elastic, neither too tall nor

tre of the petal ; the feathering is said short for the size of the flower, and suf-

to be /(g-Af, if narrow ; Aearj/, if broad ; ficiently strong to keep itself erect

a.nd irregu/nr, if lis inner edge has a without support. The edge of the petals

broken outline. ! should be unbroken, their greatest

A ^'7mc(f tulip is one that has a dark- width near the top, which would pre-

pointed spot, somewhat in shape like vent all quartering (a term which in

the flame of a candle, in the centre of reality means dividing in four), whereas

each |)otal.

the tulip parts into six, and it would

Sometimes a tulip is both feathered be better in Mr. Groom's opinion if

and flamed.

sextalizijig, or some more proper term

A Bizard tulip has a yellow ground, were substituted — Card. Cliron.

and coloured marks on its petals.

Soil and Situation. — The best soil is

A Byblomen is white, marked with formed of good turfy loam from a pas-

black, lilac, or purple.

A Rose is white, with marks of crim-
son, pink, or scarlet.

Characteristics of Excellence. — A
tulip, however coloured, should be
composed of six petals, three outer and

ture. Some very old cow-dung, say
two years old, and road scrapings, in
the proportions of three or four barrow-
fuls of the loam to one of the others.
The best aspect is south-west ; the beds
should be upon an 0|)en space, eight

three inner, which should be alternate, yards at least from any wall, to avoid
and lie close to each other; broad and the reflection of ihe sun. The soil
round on the top, quite smooth, and of should be free from maniirp, rich, and

sutticient width to allow the edges to
lie over each other when fully expand-
ed. They should be firm in texture,

rendered light by well working it. —
Gard. Chron.
Propigation. — By Seed. — Xn excel-

having a slight swell towards the lower lent French authority gives these direc-
part of the midrib of the petal, which tions : — "When the ripeness of the
will enable it to retain its shape; this tulip seed, where the flower has bloom-
in a fully expanded flower should be ed in a full exposure, is indicated by
semi-globular, the stalk being inserted the opening of the capsule, it is cut off
in the pole, which should be a little a few inches below the head, and placed
depressed. The petals should be level in a very dry situation, in order to in-
on the top, the inner three of the same sure its perfect maturity. This being
height as the outer; the latter should : accomplished, the seeds are taken out,
not be bent back, as is the case in and should be sown, about the middle of
some flowers. The colour of the October, in a bed of well prepared earth,
ground should be pure and rich, the which has been passed through a coarse
base of the petals without stain, and sieve, and covered about the eighth of
the yellow ground should possess the an inch in depth with soil of a fine and
same intensity of colour on the outer as light texture, which will allow the free
on the inner side of the flower. In the vegetation of the seeds without in-
tliree principal classes, namely, roses, crusting or becoming hard. The beds
bizards, and byblomens, the colours must be protected from sharp frosts by
should be brilliant, and well defined, covering them with leaves or with mats,
In Mr. Groom's opinion, the feathered and likewise kept perfectly free from
flower is most preferable; the feathers | weeds. If these necessary prccautiont
38

TUL

610

TUL

are attended to, the tulips will come account of their different heights, called
up towards the end of February. From j first row, second row, third row, or
the size of a small pea in the first year, ; fourth row flowers ; the first row being
the roots will increase considerably ' nearest the sides, and the fourth row
during the two following seasons, and being in the middle; of course, both
each time when the leaves fade, I sides being alike. There are but four
spread over my seedlings about an inch heights recognised. Although we have
in thickness of similarly prepared soil said a bed should consist of seven rows,
to that with which the seed was cover- ' to make the matter plain to those who
ed, being satisfied, that from the loss of have not grown a bed of tulips, every
time and the greater extent of land they seven which cross the bed is called a

occupy by taking them up in the
second year and replanting them, it is
the better plan to allow them to remain
till they have made their third growth.

" I do not take up mine until that
time, and in a few days afterwards I
replant them about two or three inches
in depth, and about three inches apart

row; and among tulip growers, wher-
ever they speak of a row, they mean
the row of seven which crosses a bed,
all these sevens being numbered from
1 to 50, as distinct rows, or up to the
full number, whatever it may be. Tu-
lips should be always planted six inches
apart every way, consequently a bed of

from each other, in a well prepared twenty-five feet would take fifty rows
bed. Lastly, in every succeeding 1 of seven each. The tulips required will
year, I set them in fresh soil, being be 50 fourth-row flowers, 100 third row,
convinced that they attain their full I (there being two rows alike of the other
size much sooner when treated in this heights) 100 second row, and 100 first;

manner, especially if sand has been
mixed with it, or lime rubbish, which
has been enriched with good rotten
manure or vegetable soil." — Card.
Chron.

By Offsets. — The same practical hor-
ticulturist observes, that —

and each of these ought to comprise,
as nearly as may be, one-third of each
class.

" There should be a few over of each
to guard against accident. The parties
who supply the tulips should not only
send the names attached to each, but

The side bulbs always reproduce their classes also,
flowers identically with those from! " Mark a space twenty-five feet long
which they derived their origin. Their and four feet broad, and lying as near
period of blooming varies according to as may be convenient north flnd south,
their size; it occasionally happens in i Dig this clean out to the depth of three
the first year, but sometimes it is six or ! feet.

seven years before they flower. During 1 " If the soil at the bottom is sour or
August the bed must be prepared for | wet, make a drain from the bottom to
thetr reception ; and in September they j the nearest place at which the water
must be planted from two to four inches can escape ; this drain should be made
apart, according to their size. Should | by cutting a trench even with the bot-
their planting be deferred till Novem- | torn of the bed all the way to the pro-
ber, it is very possible that many of the ' posed outlet, half filling it with large^
smaller ones will shrivel and perish, stones, broken pots, or (for want <)f
When they are put into the ground or harder and more lasting substance) with
taken up, the same system is followed j faggot wood, and fill up the trench with

as in the main collection, so that al
mistakes may bo avoided, and by that

the soil of the garden.

" If the bottom of the tulip bed should

means the amateur will be able to re- i be gravel, there will require no artifi-
place any bulbs which by accident or cial drainage. On the bottom of the
otherwise he may have lost in hischoice i bed spread a foot of the common soil
or best beds."— Card. Chron. i of the garden ; the real depth of the

Planting in Beds. — On this part of | bed required for the tulips is but two
their culture the best practical informa- I feet ; but in clearing away all that might
tion is given by Mr. Glenny. He says — ' prove noxious, and making the ground

«' A bed properly arranged consists | sound and sweet, by throwing in a foot
of seven long rows, of which the tallest of good garden soil, an excellent bottom
tulips should be the middle, and shorter- is made, which will not again have to
ones nearer the sides. Tulips are, on be disturbed.

TUL

" If the bottom be wet and sour, aiui
you have drained it as before denoted,
let there be a good six inches of brick
rubbish, or broken flower pots, or both,
put at the bottom, and about six inches
of the common garden soil upon them.

" The pit for the bed bciris; now pre-
pared tor filliiifT, spread dry cow-duns,
six inches thick, at the bottom; let it
be trodden down, and throw maiden
loam, as already described as the top
spit of a meadow, with the turl' rotted
in it; fill up the bed to eight inches
above the surface, drive down at each
corner of the bed a stake, to mark the
exact size the bed should be, that is,
the two end stakes four feet from each
other, and from one end to the other
twenty-five feet; and let these stakes
stand exactly square, one foot above
tlie surface of the path, and perfectly
level.

" If you design to have the sides
boarded, which saves much trouble,
your best way is to let the carpenter
adjust the boards very nicely as to level,
to let them go down at least six inches
below the surlace of the garden or path,
and stand eiL'lit inches above it ; he must
then provide a three-inch width, to fit
on and take otf at pleasure, because it
is of the greatest service in planting.
The most simple way of planning this
is with bolts ; the boarding should be
an inch thick, staples should be placsd
both in the fixed and in the moveable
board, opposite each other, at proper
distances.

" The whole should be covered from
heavy falls both of rain and snow ; and
from the moment the bulbs are in the
ground, have none but genial showers,
and not much rain of any sort. We
would never see the bed dry, but should
be quite as unwilling to see it too wet."
— Gnrd. and Pract. Ftor.

Should very severe frosts occur dur-
ing the winter, cover the bed all over
a few inches thick with sawdust, which,
ifdry, the frost never penetrates. When
the frost is over, take away the sawdust,
and sift a little fresh soil over the sur-
face of the bed.

S'lade. — Tulips cannot be grown more
advantageously than in two beds, ar-
ranged and sheltered according to the
plan of which the following is an end
view. But wlielher grown in two beds
or in one, lii'jhest in the centre, as be-
fore mentioned. The edges of the beds

should be supported by deal planking
two inches thick, and painted green,
surmounted by a wire trellis, thirty
inches high, coloured similarly, and
supporting arches of wire to bear a
canvtis covering, when shade is re-
quired. These wire arches fit into
sockets in the upper rail of the trellis,
and the canvas cover is fastened to
them by strings, as in the case of a tent
beilstead.

The wire trellis will preserve the
plants from boisterous winds during all
periods of the growth, and the whole
will be found to be the most efficient
shelter, at a moderate expense that
combines elegance with utility. The
first fortnight of the month of Novem-
ber is the best season for planting. A
hole should be made with a trowel, not
with a dibble, a little sand be j)laced
beneath and over each bulb, and a small
hillock marks on the surface its place.

The only after culture required is a
frequent hoeing of the suriace of the
bed ; and as the flowers fall, to cut off
the seed pod.

Taking up the Bulbs. — This must be
done as soon as the leaves in early
autumn become yellow. Mr. Cilcnny
says —

" If you have room and convenience,
put them into boxes, with all their skins
and roots, and place the drawers singly
in an airy dry covered place out of the
sun. In a few days they will harden,
the skins will come off easy, and the
root break away without damaging the
bulb. Should any in taking up be Ibund
with moist or mildewed skins, which is
not unfre(]uently the case, they should
nevertheless be let alone a day or two;
the removal of the skins, stalks, and
roots is accompanied with much less
risk. It is not uncommon for part of
the top to come away with the roots, if
the latter is broken off at the time of
taking up in temporary boxes at first,
so that as they are cleared of their
skins and roots, they may be laid away

TUL

612

TUR

in their own drawers perfectly clean,
which is not easily done if they are
taken out to clean and returned to the
same place, because there will be grit
and mould not easily got rid of. Tulips
when put away, should have air, with-
out heat, or much frost; an outhouse of
any kind isbetterthan a dwelling-house.
There should be a vacancy between all
the drawers, and the case all round
should have wire panel sides, back and
front." — Gard. and Pract. Flor.

TULIP TREE. Liriodendron.

TUP A. Six species. Half-hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division and
seed. Light, rich, or peaty soil.

TURF may be obtained either by
sowing grass seeds, or laying turf ob-
tained from a common or down ; and if
the latter mode can be adopted, it is
the best, as the turf is obtained at once,
and more regular than can be under the
best circumstances from seed.

All the preparation of the soil re-
quired is to dig it level, a spade deep,
provided the subsoil is open, otherwise
to have a good drainage effected (see
Draining); to have all large stones re-
moved from the surface, and to have it
brought to a perfect level, by repeated
rollings, and filling up the hollows
when necessary, as indicated by the
level. The surface being then loosened
by raking, is ready for the seed or turf.

By Seed. — " Never use that from a
haystack, for it will have mixed with it
the seeds of weeds ; but buy of respect-
able seedsmen, as much as you require.
For this purpose the best are Poa pra-
tensis, green or spear grass; Poa com-
pressor, blue grass; Anthoiayithum odo-
ratum, sweet scented vernal grass: —
either of the above, mixed with a small
proportion of white clover, will form a
permanent and pleasing sward.

" Sow evenly, and rake well in, and
roll. When the grasses come up, the
ground should be carefully gone over,
and cleared of all weeds and spurious
grasses, as they appear. Strict atten-
tion to this will do much to ensure the
future excellence of the lawn. During
the first season after sowing, the grass
may be mown three or four times, but
not in hot dry weather; and afterwards,
the oftener it is rolled and mown the
better." — Gard. Chron. — Gard. and
Prac. Flor.

By Turf. — The season for laying turf
is any time from September till April

or May, though it will grow at almost
any time of the year, even if there is
occasion to lay it in summer, and dry
weather succeed : for although it will
open at the joints, and turn brown, as
if dead, yet, after the first rain it will
close again, and resume its verdure.

The turf for this use is cut with an
iron instrument called a turfing iron,
observing to cut the pieces all an equal
width, length, and thickness — the pro-
per size is a foot wide, a yard long, and
about an inch thick ; they should be
first marked by line, the proper width,
length, and depth with a racer or miter.
Racing them first longwise a foot wide,
then across in yard lengths; then pro-
ceed to cut them up, having particular
regard to cut them level, and equal in
thickness, otherwise it will be impossi-
ble to lay them level. As you cut, a
man or boy should roll each turf up
close and tight, the grass side inwards,
and pile them up by tens, especially if
they are cut by the hundred. They are
to be laid regular, turf and turf, unroll-
ing them as you lay them, joining them
up quite close edge to edge, making
good all deficiency of broken parts as
you go on ; and as soon as laid, it should
be well beaten with broad heavy wood-
en beaters, being flat pieces of elm or
oak plank, two inches thick, fifteen or
eighteen inches long, and a iiiot broad,
having a long handle fixed slanting in
the middle of the upper side ; and with
these, beat the grass regularly all over,
and then roll it vvell with a heavy roller,
observing the beating and rolling should
be repeated in moist weather.

"If very dry hot weather succeeds,
so as to occasion the turf to shrink and
open at the joints, a good watering will
be of much advantage." — Abercromhie.

By Inoculation. — If turf is scarce, cut
turves into pieces, about three inches
square, and plant these, green side uji,
pretty thickly over the space intended
for the lawn. Boat them down into the
soil, and water freely, roll frequently,
and water also in dry weather. The
turf will soon be as close, and the sward
as perfect, as if the ground had been
entirely turved.

TURF ASHES. See Ashes.

These, which are the basis of charred
turf, now becoming so usual a manure,
are, according to M. Sprengel, thus
constituted : —

Silica 93.10

TUR

613

TUR

Alumina 1.35

Oxide of iron 1.73

manganese . . . 0.32

Lime 0.62

Magnesia 0.33

Potash, combined with sulphu-
ric acid 0.38

Comtnon salt 0.08

Sulphuric acid, combined with

potash and lime .... 1.70
Phosphoric acid, combined

with lime and magnesia . 0.39
TURF TOOLS are the liacer or Rut- shrubs
ter, for cutting the edges of turf after it perennial; and T. racemosa a hardy an

which point the iron is slightly bent
longitudinally to admit the thickness of
wood underneath, and give a proper
inclination to the handle. The instru-
ment serves both as a grass rake and a
daisy rake, and has the advantage over
the daisy rakes in common use, of being
easier cleaned, from the wideness of
the interstices between the teeth. —
Card. Mag.

TURNER A. Eleven species.

Stove annuals, biennials, and evergreen

J". /r/on//?o;-ft is an herbaceous

has been laid, and for cutting tlie out
lines of the turves when first obtained.
It is a thin sharp edged implement,
somewhat rcsemblin

fixed to a handle about four feet Ion
Fig. 173

nual. Seeds, and the shrubby kinds by
cuttings. Rich soil.

TURNIP. Brassica rapa. " The
a cheese-cutter, ' turnip is a biennial plant, growing
in a wild state in some parts of Eng-
land, but better known as an inha-
bitant of the garden and farm. There
are an immense variety: to cultivate
all is not so desirable as to plant
such as are tlie more valuable. Those
which we deem best for family use are
the Early Dutch and Red Top, for au-
tumn and early winter supply. The
Yellow Aberdeen, Golden Maltese,
Ruta Baga (or Swedish), are not so much
esteemed in the autumn, but remain
firm and solid until late in the spring,
(when most other kinds have become
pithy,) and are then fine. The Large
Globe, and Norfolk Turnip, and the
Ruta Baga, are principally cultivated
for cattle.

*' The main sowings of all the kinds
recommended for family use, are made
in the vicinity of Philadelphia from
about the middle of August to the first
of September. If sown earlier they are
A Turf or Daisy Rake consists of a ^?^ ^" '*^'l'^^'' '^"'^ ''"^'3' flavoured," and
piece of thin plate iron, cut into teeth, 'J sown later do not generally attain
with two slips of ash, or other tough '"*' growth. The Ruta Baga, Globe and
wood, between which it is firmly rivet- ^°^^o^^ require more time to perfect
ed to form a back, and keep it from '''*""^^'''^^! ^""^ therefore about -

The Turfing Inm is f(ir raising or
peeling off the turves from the soil. It
lias an arrow-headed flat blade, with an
angular handle, thus : —

Fig. 174

^

bending. When put together, the back
is an inch and a quarter thick. The
wood is beveled to nothing, half an inch
above the interstices of the teeth, at

month earlier. The more rapidly the
root is produced the more tender and
well flavoured it will be. Those which
are intended for the spring supply should
be topped very closely, else when the
weather becomes mild, the crown will
start, and the root soon gets pithy and
unfit for use.

" Spring sowings seldom answer a
good purpose : the Early Dutch and
Red Top are, however, best.

" Should a long continued drought
prevail at the time recommended for
sowing in the autuoin, some difficulty

T U R

614

TUS

may he experienced in getting the seed ! moved, and, in other respects, be treat-
to vegetate, (unless it be small patches | ed as turnips in preparing them for

in the garden, which can be shaded and
watered.) The only resource is, to
make several sowings in freshly dug or
ploughed ground.

" If the seed has lain long, say two
or three weeks, without vegetating,
should a shower come, the safer plan
will be to re-plough or harrow the
ground, and make a fresh sowing.

" Frequently the ' fly' proves very
destructive, preying upon the young
plants when in so early a stage that 1
they can scarcely be seen without close
inspection. To counteract them it has |
been recommended to soak the seed in '
sulphur water — an ounce of sulphur to j
a pint of water. A mixture of quick-
lime, ashes, and soot, sprinkled over;
them, is frequently effectual. I

« The crop may be put in either broad
cast, or in drills, raking the seed well
in. The latter plan is the better, and
if sown on very dry ground during hot
weather, it is safer to roll the land im-
mediately afterw;ird. Observe, the land
cannot be too rich for this crop; old sod,
or newly cleared land, produces the
largest and finest flavoured roots." —
Rural Register.

To obtain Seed, some of the most per-
fect roots of those which will withstand
the winter may remain where grown;
or they may be transplanted in February
or March.

The plants must stand a foot apart
each way ; be carefully freed of weeds,
and especial care taken to keep away
birds, as they are particularly voracious
of the seed of this, and of all other spe-
cies of brassica. When ripe in July or
August, the stalks are cut; and when
perfectly dry, the seed beaten out and
stored. No two varieties must be al-
lowed to grow together.

Manures. — The best manure for tur-
nips is stable dung; and next in their
order, guano, super-phosphate of lime,
soot, and salt.

For the injuries to which the turnip
is liable, see Athalia, Ambury, and
Black Fly.

Turnip-cabbage {Brassica napo-bras-
sica), and turnip-rooted cabbage (B.
caulo-rapa). These species of brassica
are but little cultivated, and, at most, a
very small quantity of each is in request

Varieties. — Of the turnip-cnhbace,
which is so named on account of the
round fleshy protuberance that is form-
ed at the upper end of the stem, there
are four varieties: —

1. White turnip-cabbage.

2. Purple turnip-cabbage.

3. Fringed turnip-cabbage.

4. Dwarf early turnip-cabbage.
Of the turnip-rooted cabbage, which

is distinguished from the above by its
root having the protuberance near the
origin of the stem, there are two varie-
ties, the white and the red.

Sowing. — They are propagated by
seed, which may be sown broadcast or
in drills, at monthly intervals, in small
quantities, from the commencement of
April until the end of June.

Planting. — The best mode is to sow
thin, in drills two feet and a half apart,
and allow the plants to remain where
sown, the plants being thinned to a
similar distance apart; or, if sown
broadcast, to allow them to remain in
the seed-bed until of sufficient size to
be removed into rows, at similar dis-
tances, for production, rather than, as
is the practice of some gardeners, to
transplant them, when an inch or two
in height, in a shady border, in rows
three inches apart each way, to be
thence removed as above stated.

Water must be given every night after
a removal until the plants are again
established ; and afterwards, in dry
weather, occasionally as may appear
necessary.

Earth may be drawn up to the stem
of the turnip-cabbage as to other species
of brassica; but the bulb of the turnip-
rooted must not be covered with the
mould. For directions to obtain seed,
&c., see Brocoli, Turnip, &c.
TURNIP-FLY. See Black Fly.
TURNSOLE. Heliotropium.
TURPENTINE. Silphium terebintha-
ceum.

TURPENTINE MOTH. See Tor-
trix resinella.

TURPENTINE TREE. Pistaciate-
rebinthus.

TURR.ffiA. Five species. Stove
evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam, peat,

Thebulbs.forwhichtheyarecultivated, and sand.

must have their thick outer skin re- 1 TUSSILAGO. Twelve species.

TWA

615

VAN

Hardy or half-hardy herbaceous peren- ' bleaching powder (chloride of lime),

nials. Division. Common soil

TWAYBLAD?. Listera.

TWKKDIA. Two species,
deciduous twiners. Cuttings or seeds.
Sandv loam and peat.

TYLOPHORA. Three species.
Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings.
Peat and loam.

TYPOGRAPHER BARK BEETLE.
See Bostrichus,

TYTONIA natans. Stove aquatic
annual. Seeds. Rich loamy soil, in
water.

ULCER. See Canker.

U L E X . Furze. Four species.
Hardy evergreen shrubs. U. Eiiropcea
is increased by young cuttings, and all
by seeds. Common light soil.

there will be no offensive smell. CJyp-
sum mixed with urine, or a little oil of
Hardy I vitriol poured into it, adds to its utility
as a manure. Sulph:iie of iron, in the
proportion of seven pounds to every
hundred of urine, prevents the escape
of ammonia during putrefaction.

UROPETALON. Six species. Half-
hardy and green-house bulbous peren-
nials. Offsets and seeds. Loam and
leaf-mould.

UTRICULARIA. Hooded Milfoil.
Three species. Hardy aquatic peren-
nials. Division. Water.

UVARIA. Six species. Stove ever-
green shrubs; U. zeylanica, a twiner.
Ripe cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.

UVULARIA. Six species. Hardy

ULiMUS. Elm. Thirteen species ' ,,g~j,_:,P^g^yV-"g„„i;;j^;'l)7;fJo„/Ligh't
and many varieties. Hardy deciduous . . >

trees. Lavers or grafts. Common soil.

U. integrifolia is a stove evergreen
tree. The Wych elm (L' montana) is
also propagated bv seed ripened here.

UMBILICUS. Four species. Hardy
and half-hardy herbaceous perennials.
Offsets, cuttings, and seeds. Loam,
peat, and sand.

UMBRELLA TREE. Hibiscus gui-
necnsis.

UMBRELLA WORT. Oxybaphus.

UNC.^RIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

UNDER-GROUND ONION. SeePo-
tato Onion.

UNONA. Ten species. Stove ever-
green shrubs, trees, and climbers. Ripe
cuttings. Light turfy loam.

URANI.\. speciosa. Stove herbace-
ous perennial. Newly imported seeds.
Turfy loam and peat. It requires to be
well watered.

URARI.\. Six species. Stove and

sandy soil.

VACCINIUM. Whortleberry. Thirty-
two species and some varieties. Chiefly
hardy deciduous shrubs; V. caracasa-
num and V.meridionale are stove ever-
greens ; and a few are liardy and half-
hardy evergreen trailers. Layers,
seeds, and the stove species cuttings :
sandy peat.

VALERI.\NA. Valerian. Nineteen
species. Hardy herbaceous perennials,
except V. capensis, which belongs to
the green-house, and V. sisymbrifolia,
is a hardy biennial. Division. Loam,
peat, and sand, for the natives of warna
climates, and common soil for the
hardy species.

VALERIANELLA. Three species.
Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil.

VALLARIS pergulana. Stove ever-
green twiner. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.

VALLESIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy

green-house evergreen shrubs, except loam and peat.

U. lagoc(phala, a stove herbaceous pe- ' VALLISNERIA spiralis. Green-

rennial. Seeds or young cuttings, house aquatic perennial. Seeds. Wa-

Loain, peat, and sand.

URHDO. See Burberry and Mildew.

VALLOTA purpurea, and its variety.

IRINE. See Dung. The urine of Green-house bulbous perennial. Off-

all animals is excellent as a manure;
but it must be given only to plants
whilst growing, and in a diluted state.
C)ne of the most fertilizing of liquid
manures is composed ofcabbage-leaves,
and other vegetable refuse, putrefied in

sets. Peat and sand.

VANDA. Five species. Stove
epiphytes. Division. Wood, and some
of the stronger kinds, sphagnum and
potsherds.

VAXDELLI.'V. Four species. Stove

the urine from a house or stable, and ! annuals, except V. Iiirsuta, which is

diluted with three times its quantity of] hardv. Seeds. Sandy loam.

water when applied. If mixed with! VjVNGUERI.^. Three species. Stove

VAN

Cuttings.

616

VER

Loam

evergreen shrubs
and peat.

VANILLA. Three species. V. bi-
color, a stove epiphyte, increased by
division, and growing on wood. The
otlier two increase by cuttings. Moss
and turfy peat

VEPRLS ohovata. Stove evergreen
I shrub. Cuttings. Peat, loam, and
sand.

VERATUM. Six "Species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division or
seeds. Rich soil.

VERBASCUM. Sixty-four species.

VAR'IEGATION is the colour of Chielly hardy biennials, and a few
leaves diflerent from green, such as herbaceous perennials. V. spinosum is
"the silvery and golden margins, and a half-hardy evergreen shrub; V. ha-
varieties of spots, which are common morrhoidale, and V. pinnatifidum, are
among garden plants, as in myrtle, green-house biennials. Seeds; the pe-
sage, ivy, holly, the Agave Americana, • rennials by division. Common soil.
Seiupcrvivuni arboreum, and many of, VERBENA. Vervain. Thirty-two
the Pelavf^oniic. These spots are not species. Hardy, half-hardy and green-
diseases, ibr the whole plant has all the house herbaceous perennials, and hardy
signs of being in a perfectly healthy and half-hardy annuals and biennials.
state. But neither are they effects ofj These latter increase by seed, the pe
a law of nature, like the spots of OrcA/s
7naculata, and the red-coloured leaves
of Caladitim bicolor and Amaranthus
tricolor, inasmuch as they are not con-
tinued by propagation by seed. Such
discoloured spots are incapable of per-
forming the usual function of leaves,
namely, the exhalation of oxygen
gas." — Decandolle.

Yet this variegation does not render
the plant more tender; for the varie-
gated holly and ivy are as hardy as
those with leaves entirely green.

V AS CO A. Two species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

VEGf:TABLE MANURES. See
Green Manures, Ashes, Manures.

VEGETABLE MARROW. See
Gourd.

VELEZIA rigida. Hardy annual.
Seeds. Light soil.

V E L L A Pseudo - cytisus. Cress
Rocket. Green-house evergreen shrub.
Young cuttings. Common soil.

VELLEJA. Three species. Green-
liouse herbaceous perennials. Division
or seeds. Loam, peat, and sand.

VELTHEIMIA. Three species.
Green-house bulbous perennials. Off-
sets. Light loamy soil.

VENTILATION. See Stove.

VENUS'S COMB. Scandix pecten-

rennials by cuttings. Light loam.

Choice Varieties are —

Scarlet. — V. Atrosanguinea; V.
Boule de Feu.

Orange Scarlet. — V. formosa ele-
gans ; Gladiator.

White. — Princess Royal; Monarch;
Alba magna.

Purple. — V. Stewartii ; Emma.

Reddish Purple. — V. rubra; V. pur-
purea ; Renown ; V. rubescens.

Ruby. — Defiance ; RuIjv.

Rose. — Bridesmaid ; Wood's Princess
Royal; Beauty ; Supreme ; Teucriodes
Rosea ; Rose d- Amour.

Mulberry. — Mulberry.

Cream. — V. lutescens.

Lilac. — Messenger; Giant.

Propagation. — By Seed. — Sow to-
wards the end of February in shallow-
pans, to be placed in a gentle heat.
The seedlings may be planted out in
summer in a warm part of the garden,
where they will flower in the autumn.

By Cuttings. — In the last week of
August or first week of September,
take cuttings from laterals not in bloom.
Pot them in sixties, filled firmly with
sandy loam and leaf mould; water and
plunge in a hot-bed, temperature not
more than 4.3^, under a hand-glass,
shading from sunshine, and when rooted
pinch off their tops.
>neris. I By Layers. — Verbenas in the open

VENUS'S FLY-TRAP. Lioncea mus- < borders are readily propagated by peg-

cipula.

ging down the laterals in September in

VENUS'S HAIR. Adiantum capillis pots filled with earth and sunk into the

bed near the plants. The layers will
be rooted in about six weeks, when they

Spe-\

veneris.

VENUS-S LOOKING-GLASS

cularia speculum.

VENUS'S NAVELWORT. Ompha
lodes.

lay be separated from the parent
plant. Put them into a gentle heat,
repot them, and keep through the

V ER

617

VIN

winter in a cold frame, giving very V'ERXOXIA. Fifteen species. Ilardv

little water during that season. green-house and stove herbaceous pe-

General Culture. — Mr. G. Fielder, rennials, and stove evergreen shrubs,

gardener to \V. Ifrisco, Esq., of Hast- I', linearis is a stove annual. Seeds

ings, says that six plants of a kind are and young cuttings, and the herbaceous

usually enough to obtain cuttings and kinds bv division. Light rich soil.

' VER'ONIC.V. Speedwell. Onehun-

dred and twenty-five species. Cl)iellv

layers from for bedding out. His mode
of proceeding is as follows: —

" In the first or second vvcek in Jidy hardy herbaceous perennials. Some
strike in sixty pots as many cuttings of are deciduous trees and trailers, and a

the ditferent kinds as required tor fill-
ing the beds in the following year,
about six pots of a sort being usually
sufficient. Early ia .\ugust, tlie pots
being filled with roots, prepare as many
boxes, two feet square sorts, filling one-
third of each box with broken tiles,
and the rest witli one part sand, one
leaf-mould, and two parts good rich

few evergreen shrubs and creepers.
The green-house shrubs increase by
cuttings. Tho hardy annuals by seeds.
The herbaceous by division. Common
soil suits them all.

VERVAIN. See Verbena.

VESICARIA. Nine species. Hardy
and half-hardy annuals, biennials, her-
baceous perennials, and evergreen

loam. Plant in them at equal distances shrubs. Seeds. Sandy loam,
apart, and the shoots being pegged ^ \V.STl.\ lycioides. Green-house de-
down they soon take root all over the ciduous shrub. Cuttings. Peat and

oain.
VII30RGIA. Two species. Green-
cut-

box, and form one mass. Place in a
cold frame during the winter, and the

lights thrown otf except in wet or frosty I house evergreen shrubs. Youn
weather. Early in the spring they begin tings. Sandy loam and peat,
to make young shoots, which pot in sixty VIBURNUM. Twenty-seven species
pots and strike in a cucumber frame ; and some varieties. Hardy deciduous
these will be ready to plant out by the and evergreen shrubs; a very few be-
long to the stove and green-house, and
one or two are lialf-hardy. Layers or
cuttings. Peat and loam; V. opulus ia
the Guelder Rose.

VICIA. Vetch. Seventy-seven spe-
cies. Chiefly hardy annuals and climb-

end of April, at which time the boxes
are turned out, one side being removed
and the mass planted in the centre of
a bed. The bed is then filled up with
the young plants from the sixty pots ;
those out of the boxes, being oldest

and strongest, take the lead and keep ing annuals or deciduous climbers.

Seeds : and the few perennial kinds by

it."' — Gard. Chron.

In Pots. — Some of these trained over division and seeds.

a trellis should alwavs be on the creen-

VIEUSSEUXIA.

Common soil
Eleven species.

house. All the particular attention Green-house bulbous perennials. V

required is that they should be kept glaucopis is half-hardy. Offsets or

regularly shifted into pots of a larger seeds. Peat, loam, and sand,
size as they require it, and should be VIGNA globea. Hardy training an-

where they receive the full benefit of
the sun and air
will suit them.

Such are the directions for its culture

VIGUIERA. Two species. Stove
Any free rich soil herbaceous perennials. Cuttings. Sandy
peat and loam.

VILLARSIA. Ten species. Hardy,

as given in the I^nglish edition of this half-hardy, green-house and stove
work. In the United States the climate aquatic and herbaceous perennials. Di-
is more favourable for the Verbena, and vision or seed. Peat and sand; and
when turned out in an open border the perennial, or marshy kinds, in
early in summer, the only care requisite i pots placed in water

seems to be lest it take entire posses-
sion of the garden.

V1LM0RINI.\ multijlora. Stove
evergreen shrub. Seeds and cuttings.

VERHESIN.\. Eightspecies. Green- Loam, peat, and sand

house and hardy herbaceous perennials

V. boswallia is a green-house annual, house evergreen shrubs,
and V.atriplicifolia a.n evergreen shrub. Light loam and peat
Division. Light rich soil

VIMINARI.V. Two species. Green-
Cuttings.

VINC.V. Periwinkle. Three spe-

VIN

618

VI 0

cies and several varieties. Hardy
evergreen trailers. Division. Com-
mon soil.

VINE. Vitis vinifera. See Grape
Vine.

VINE BOWER. Clematis Viticella.

VINE LEEK. Allium ampeloprasum.

VIOLA. Violet. Ninety-nine spe-
cies. Chiefly hardy herbaceous peren-
nials, annuals, deciduous and evergreen
trailers, a few are half-hardy, and a
few others belong to the green-house.
The herbaceous kinds increase by di-
vision or seeds : the shrubs by cuttings.
The annuals by seeds. Loam, peat, or
leaf-mould, and sand suits them best.

VIOLET. Viola odorata.

Varieties. — The best are Neapolitan,
double pale blue; Russian, h[\ie; Tree

Russian and Neapolitan Violets. —
There are two double varieties of the
Russian, the purple and the white. At
the close of autumn, in a rich yet light
soil, some year-old plants of each va-
riety should be planted, some in a bor-
der which is exposed to the full meridian
sun; some in a border which only re-
ceives its morning rays; and a third
quantity in pots on a north border. The
only attention they require is to keep
them free from weeds, and to remove
all runners as they appear. These will
bloom in succession from March until
the end of May; and if those in pots in
the north border are prevented from
blooming by having their flower-buds
picked off as they appear until late in
May, and are then plunged in the
border which enjoys the morning sun,

Violet, semi-double, blue, stem eighteen j they will, if carefully watered and at-

inches high. Double Blue; Whiter
Pink.

Soil. — All the varieties prefer a light
rich soil on a well drained subsoil.
Stable manure makes them too luxuri-
ant; and when they require the addi-
tion of a fertilizer, none is so beneficial
as leaf-mould, or the bottom of an old
wood stack.

Propagation. — By Division, &c. —
They all multiply by parting the roots,
and by their side shoots rooting in the
earth. They may be parted or slipped
in spring, summer, or autumn, as soon
as they have done flowering, in moist
weather. Each plant may be slipped
or divided into several slips, not too

tended, bloom in June and early in July.
The double purple may be most suc-
cessfully cultivated in this way. For
forcing, Mr. Ayres directs some year-
old plants of the Neapolitan varieties
to be taken up after having done flower-
ing, and planted in a light rich border,
a foot apart each way, care being taken
to remove all runners, but to injure the
roots as little as possible. A copious
watering is to be given at the time of
planting ; they should be shaded through
the summer, and all runners removed
as they appear. In September, the
Neapolitans with good balls of earth
are to be placed in forty-eight or thirty-
two size pots, and removed into a gentle

small; and planted either at once to : hot-bed, and protected by a frame. If
remain, or the weakest may be planted | air be admitted freely and the heat be
in nursery beds; and in either method ! kept up very gently, these may be
each slip will soon increase into a large brought to bloom in February. Another
tuft, and flower abundantly the next mode of making the Neapolitan violet
year. 1 bloom during the winter is to plant some

By Seed. — Sow it either soon after it ' of the runners at the end of April, in
is ripe, or early in the spring, in a bed small pots filled chiefly with leaf-mould,
or border of light earth, and raked in ; watering them until rooted, and then
and when the plants are come up an moving them to a cold shaded place, as
inch or two high in summer, prick them ' the north side of a wall — the colder the

out in a shady border to grow till Oc
tober, and then plant out to remain.

Pink Violets. — The best time to
plant them is in September, but they
should be planted in a dry situation.

better. In October bring them under
the sunny side of the green-house, or
into an empty frame to be closed at
night, and then move them the second
week in December into a sunny window

and not fully exposed to the sun at any or green-house. They will bloom in
part of the day. The principal points January, and for some months after, by
to attend to are, never to disturb them having a proper succession,
by clearing or digging about them, ^ Dr. Lindley says — " To have Russian
and always to plant them in a shaded j violets in flower during winter, you

place.

must treat them in the following man-

V I 0

619

W H A

ner: as soon as they have done flower-
ing, about March, sift a little light soil
over them, and encourage their growth
as much as possible, to obtain early
strong rooted runners Troni the old
plants, which if properly managed will

VIOLET TIILASPI. Clypeola Ion
Tlifaspi.

VluRNA. Clematis viornn.
VIPF:R-S BUGLOSS. Eclnum.
VIPKIl-S CRASS. See Scorzonern.
VIKGIHA. Six species. (ireen-

be about the end of May. Transplant house evergreen shrubs, except T. ?i/?ca.

the young runners into a nursery-bed in
a rather shaded but not confined situa-
tion. The soil should be fresh sandy
loam and peat, with a small portion of
leaf-mould, but by no means made rich
with dung, as that causes the plants to
grow too vigorously. About the begin-

a hardy deciduous tree. Young cut-
tings. Loam, peat, and sand.

VIRGIXL\N CREEPER. Ampelopsis
hcdcracca.

VIRGLVIAX POKE. Phytolacca de-
candra.

VIRGLX'S BOWER. Clematis Viti-

ning of August prepare a place for their ' ceUa.

final reception,
melon bed will

old
do wel

cucumber or , VISCARIA. Three species. Hardy
taking away annuals. Seeds. Common soi"

the soil from the frame, and tilling the V I S C U JNI album. The Mistletoe.

place with a mixture of good loam and Parasite, increased by putting the ber-
ries on trees alter cutting the bark. See
Mistletoe.

VISML\. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Young cuttinss.

o DO

Loam and peat.

V I T E X. Twelve species. Stove,

sandy peat, adding about one quarter of
well rotted cow-dung to it, well water
the whole, and let it remain for a few^
days to settle. After this remove the
young plants from the nursery-bed with
good balls, and plant t!iem in rows
aliout six or nine inches apart each w'ay, green-house and hardy evergreen shrubs

and afterwards place the liglits on ("or
few days until the plants recover the
shift. They will afterwards require no
further trouble except watering and
keeping free from slugs and weeds,
which must be attended to. When the
weather becomes cold in the autumn,
the lights must be put on during the i
night, and in rough wet weather; and \
finally the violets must be well protected '
from frost during winter, by covering
them at all times when the weather will
permit, to prevent their damping ofT.
Treated in this way, they will then
flower freely from December to Febru-
ary. They may also be potted and
cultivated in the same manner, and
when in flower may be planted in the
green-house; but they will not bloom
during the winter, if exposed to the in-
clemency of the weather, or if in a damp
situation." — Gard. Chron.

Water should only be applied to them
when they really want it, and then it
should be given freely, and early in the
morning, so that the plants may have

and trees. Cuttings. Loam and peat,
and the hardy kinds of common soil.

VITIS. Eleven species and some
varieties. ILirdy deciduous or stove
evergreen climbers. V. vinifera is the
common grapevine: seed, cuttings or
layers. Strong rich soil. See Grape
Vine.

V1TTARL\. Two species. Ferns.
Stove herbaceous perennials. Division
or seeds. Loam and peat.

VOANDZELV subterranea. Stove
creeping annual. Seeds. Rich mould.

VOLKAMERIA aculeata. A stove
evergreen shrub, and V. japonica, a
green-house evergreen tree. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

VOUAPA bifolia. Stove evergreen
shrub. Ripe cuttings. Sandy loam and
peat.

VOYR.l rosea. Stove herbaceous
perennial. Seeds. Sandy loam and
peat.

VRESIA psittacina. Stove epiphyte.
Suckers. Leaf-mould and potsherds.

WACHENDORFIA. Eight species.

plenty of time to dry before the frame Green-house bulbous perennials. OfT-
is closed.

Tree Violet. — This requires to be pot-
ted in a mixture of peat and sandy
loam, and requires no further attention

than to be kept in a shady part of a green creeper; the other two are an-
green-house ; supplying it plentifully Duals. Division and seeds. Loam and

• sets or seeds. Sandy loam and peat.
WAHLENBERGIA. Four species.
All hardy; W. grandijlora, an herb-
aceous perennial ; W. repeiis, an ever-

with water and air.

I peat.

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620

W AL

WALDSTEINIA geoides. Hardy
herbaceous perennial. Division or
seeds. Common soil.

WALKERA. Two species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Sandy
loam and peat.

WALKS. See Gravel. It may be

will bloom in the spring, and the best
may be then selected. Watering in
very dry weather, lengthens the dura-
tion of their bloom. Saltpetre one
ounce to the gallon, given once in ten
days, heightens their colour and vigour.
Cuttinsrs. — The double varieties are

observed here, that of whatever material I thus propagated. When the old plants
a walk is composed, that it is essential ! are done blooming, cut off their heads ;
to have it well under-drained, and for ! water them freely, and they will pro-
this purpose an understratum offlints or i duce shoots along with their entire stem;
brick-bats, twelve inches deep, is not these when from four to six inches long,
too much. Walks so founded, are never must be cut off close to the stem, and
vet or soft. Coal ashes, or which is be planted in a light rich shady border,
still better, fresh tan, makes a pleasant under a hand-glass; watering occasion-
winter walk, particularly on tenacious ally until rooted.

Soil. — A light rich loam, mixed with
See

WALLICHIA. Two species. Stove
Strong rich soil and a

soils, as it never adheres to the shoes

eitlier during rain or after frost; half! a little lime rubbish, suits it best.

an inch I think is sufficient. It likewise Stock

makes a soft and pleasant summer walk

and from its loose nature, is readily palms. Seeds

cleared from weeds. If not wanted i strong heat.

during summer, it may readily be swept ; WALLS are usually built in panels,

clean otT after a few dry days. It is in- I from fifteen to thirty feet in length, one

valuable for covering walks or footpaths j brick thick, with pillars for the sake of

in the kitchen garden, when there is adding to their strength, at these speci-

much wheeling of manure or soil, to be fied distances; the foundation a brick

done during frost, which is too often and a half thick. The plan of jNIr. Sil-

obliged to be suspended at\er ten or|verlock, of Chichester, is worthy of

eleven o'clock, when there is clear sun- ; adoption, since if well constructed, it is

shine, from the ground getting soft and ] equally durable, and saves one-third of

clammy. With a covering of tan, the | the expense. Walls so constructed are

operation may be continued throughout
the day, and even during wet weather.
If the tan remain permanently, it will
require renewing every two years. —
Card. Chron.

WALL CRESS. Ardbis.

WALL-FLOWER or STOCK-GIL-
LIFLOWER. Cheiranthus.

C. arboreits. Shrubby W. F. Yel-
low. June.

C. cheiri. Common W. F. Yellow,
crimson, brown. June.

C.firmus. Permanent W, F. Yellow.
July.

C. Unifolius. Flax-leaved W. F. Pur-
ple. July.

C. scopariiis
purple. June.

C. semper flor ens.
F. White. July.

stated to become dry after rain, much
more rapidly than a solid wall of the
same or any other thickness, and there
appears not a shadow of a reason why
it should not ripen fruit equally well.

He forms the wall hollow, nine inches
in breadth, by placing the bricks edge-
wise so as to form two facings, they are
laid in good mortar, and the joints care-
fully finished. They are placed alter-
nately with their fices and ends to the
outsides, so that every second brick is
a tie, and in each succeeding course, a
brick with its end outwards is placed
on the centre of one laid lengthwise on
either side. The top of the wall must
be covered with a coping of stone or
bricks, projecting two inches. It is
strengthened at every twenty feet, by
piers of fourteen inch-work, built in the
Besides these species and varieties, same manner, with bricks laid on edge,
there are many German Wall-flowers \ The mode of constructing the piers,
imported, mostly semi-double, and well obviating the disadvantages arising from
■worthy of culture for their peculiar CO- j training branches round their sharp
lours and habits. i angles, which often causes them to

Sowing is best done in June, the gum, recommended by the Rev. T.Cul-
seedlings to be transplanted into nur- i luni, of Bury St. Edmonds, is to have
sery beds when three inches high. They their corners bevelled. He also advises

White, yellow, and
Everblooming W.

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621

W A L

the copings to project much further darkness of its colour, if a proper screen
than they are usually made to do, even be then employed. — Johnson's Princ. of
as much as twelve inches ; but his rea- Gard.

soning refers more immediately to the
manaizement of wall fruit.

Inclined or Sloping Walls have been
recommended, but have alwavs failed

It is a practice sanctioned by econo- in practice. It is quite true that they

my, to build the wall half brick thick, receive the sun's rays at a favourable

on a nine inch foundation, and to com- angle, but they retain wet, and become

pensate for its want of strength, a so much colder by radiation at night

waved form is given. Both the small- than perpendicular walls, that they are

ncss of its substance and its form, are found to be unfavourable to the ripen-

found, however, to be inimical to the ing of fruit,
ripening of fruit. " The F/ucd-u-all or Ilot-iral!,'" says

In every instance a wall should never Mr. Loudon, " is generally built entire-
be lower than eight feet. The thick- ly of brick, though where stone is
ness usually varies with the height of abundant and more economical, the
the wall, being nine inches, if it is not back or north side may be of that raa-

liigher than eight feet; thirteen and a
half inches, if above eight and under
fourteen feet; and eighteen inches,
from fourteen up to twenty feet.

Fruit trees will succeed quite as well
against a stone wall as against a brick
one, although the former is neither so

tcrial. A flued wall may be termed a
hollow wall, in which the vacuity is
thrown into compartments, to facilitate
the circulation of smoke and heat, from
the base or surlace of the ground, to
within one or two feet of the coping.
Such walls are generally arranged with

neat in appearance, nor can the trees hooks inserted under the coping, to ad-
be trained in such a regular form upon mit of fastening some description of
it as npon the latter. The lastdisadvan- protecting covers, and sometimes for
tage may be in a great measure remc- temporary glass frames. A length of
died by having a wooden or wire trellis forty feet, and from ten to tifleen high,
affixed to it. — Gard. Chron. may be heated by one fire, the furnace
If it be desirable that the roots of the of which, being placed one or two feet
trees should benefit by the pasturage below the surlace of the ground, the
outside the wall, it is very common to first course or flue will commence one

build it upon an arched foundation.

toot above it, and be two feet six inches.

Colour has very considerable influence ' or three feet high, and the second, third,
over a body's power of absorbing heat, and fourth courses, narrower as they
If a thermometer on a hot summer's ascend. The thickness of that side of
day, be exposed to the sun, it will indi- the flue, next the south or preferable
cate a temperature of about 100°; but if side, should for the first course, be four
the bulb be blackened with Indian ink inciies or brick and bed, and for the
or the smoke of a candle, it will rise other courses, it were desirable to have
from ten to twenty degrees higher, bricks cast in a smaller mould : say for
The reason for this is tli;it the polished the second course three, for the third
surface of the glass reflects some of the two and three (juarters, and for the
sun's rays, but the blackened surlace ' fourth two and a half inches in breadth,
absorbs them all. Blue absorbs all but This will give an opportunity of bevel-

the blue rays — red all but the red —
green and yellow all but those of their
own name — and white reflects all the
rays. The lightest coloured rays are
the most heating, therefore light co-
loured walls, but especially white, are
the worst for fruit trees. The ther-
mometer against a wall rendered black

ng the wall, and the bricks being all of
the same thickness, though of difl'erent
widths, the external appearance will be
everywhere the same." — Enr. Gard.

Mr. Paxton has the following excel-
lent observations upon Conservative
Walls, or walls so constructed as to
shelter trees trained against them from

by coal tar, rises 5^ higher in the sun- winds, and other natural modes of
shine, than the same instrument sus- rapidly lowering the temperature: —
pendcd against a red brick structure of " In forming a conservative wall, it is
the samii thickness; nor will it cool necessary that it should have a south or
lower at night, though its radiating | a south-western aspect. It is also desi-
power is increased by the increased' rable, in order to give it an ornamental

W A L

622

W AL

appearance, that there should be promi-
nent parts at certain intervals, or that
the wliole should be divided into re-
cesses and projections. The latter, by
being of limited dimensions, would
serve for the display of the more hardy
plant, and also afford additional shelter
to the remaining portions. If, more-
over, the whole be surmounted by an
appropriate coping, its beauty will be
greatly enhanced.

"Much has been said of the conser-
vative wall at Chatsworth, the leading
characteristics of which are a practical
illustration of the opinions now ad-
vanced— large retiring compartments,
covered with a neat trellis, and relieved
by occasional small stone projections or
piers ; and as the wall stands on a steep
slope, each of the piers is raised con-
siderably higher than the one below it,
thus constituting as it were a series of
very broad ascending steps on the top.

" The advantage of having a slight
wooden trellis against the wall, instead
of fastening the plants to it in the usual
way, need scarcely be pointed out.
Independently of its superior appear-
ance, which is a point too frequently
neglected in such matters, the greater
ease with which the branches can be
attached to it, and removed or altered
at any time, is quite sufficient to give it
the preference, while the destruction
and defacement of the wall consequent
on the use of nails, and the injury they
often occasion to the shoots of the
plants, give a value to any system by
which they can be discarded. The
extra expense of the trellis is too tri-
fling to be regarded.

" It has been found, in attempting to
grow exotics against open walls, that
whatever tends to preserve the border
in which they are planted comparatively
dry, during the winter, does more to-
wards sheltering them from the frost
than extensive protection of any other
kind.

" As the fluids of plants are, for the
most part, imbibed through the roots,
and as the heat of vegetable bodies
escapes mainly in proportion to the
fluids they contain, protection to the
medium in which they grow is perhaps
even more necessary than to the stems
and branches. It will therefore be seen,
that the portion of the border where the
roots lie must be covered, and that, if
the canvas or other protection actually

given to the wall does not extend over
the border, a coating ofdry litter should
he spread over it, as soon as severe
weather commences, and be retained
on it until the spring.

"The wall is composed of alternate
prominent and retiring compartments.
Each of the former includes two stone
pillars, which stand out a little beyond
all the remainder, and are to be left un-
covered ; while, between these, is a
division, over which is extended a trellis
for supporting the hardiest sorts of
climbers and those that demand no pro-
tection.

" The recesses are capable of being
covered in cold weather with glazed
sashes, which can be placed out of sight
in a moment, whenever it is safe to re-
move them, by sliding them hiphind the
other divisions. In these recesses the
tenderest green-house plants may be
cultivated, and trained against a trellis.

" Thus are combined a handsome
architectural elevation, and the means
of having some of the finest exotic plants
exposed in summer, without danger,
and in a condition incomparably more
healthy and attractive than they ever
attain in the green-house.

" If glazed sashes are too expensive,
canvas, or other screens, can be readily
substituted ; but, in that case, the j)lants
will suffer from being kept in darkness
during the winter. Where it is thought
preferable, another set of rails, on the
outside of those for the sashes, can be
prepared, to carry some kind of cover-
ing in rigorous weather. Where this is
done, the necessity tor fire heat will be
trifling ; in fact it might be entirely dis-
pensed with." — Paxton^s Magazine of
Botany.

PLANTS FOR A CONSERVATIVE WALL.

Abutilon striatum ; Acacia angustifolia,
armata, cultiformis, dealbata, decur-
rens, juniperina, lancelota, longissi-
ma, lunata, and mucronata.

Bignonia capreolata, grandiflora, and
tweediana; Billardiera longiflora;
Bossia;a linophylla and scolopen-
drium ; Brachysema hybridum and
undulatum ; Brugmansia sanguinea
and suaveolens; Budleya Lindleyana.

Camellia Japonica; Ceanothus azureus;
Ceratonia siliqua ; Clematis azurea
grandiflora, and sieboldi ; Correa
bicolor, Harrisii, Lindleyana, and
pulchella.

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623

W A L

Diplacus pumiceus.

Edwardsia graiidiHora and microphylla;

Erythrina crysta-galli ; Eutaxia inyrti-

folia.
Grcvillea rosmarinifolia.
Hibbcrtia volubilis.
Jiisininuni granditlorum, and umbella-

tuin.
Keiinedya lilacina, longiracemosa, and

ovata.
Lagerstra;mia indica; Linum trigyniura.
JMalva creeana ; Maneltia bicolor; Ma-

" Tlie shoot to be grafted must be
cut above the place where a yoiiiig
shoot is pushing; this shoot must be
preserved, and the scion must be placed
opposite to it, being fitted in the man-
ner of whip-grafling, care being taken
that the inner barks coincide. When
the buds of the scion begin to swell, the
point of the shoot left opposite on tlie
stock must be pinched ; and when the
gralt has tully burst into leat', and is
consequently in a condition to appro-

rianthus cjeruleo-punctatus ; Mimosa priate the whole of the sap, the shoot

prostrata.
Olea fragrans.
Passillora alata, cxrulea, cajrulea race-

mosa, and inayani ; Plumbago capen-

sis ; Polygala cordifolia and grandi-

flora; Punica granatum.
Rhodocliiton volubile.

on the stock may be then dispensed
with.

" The scions should be taken ofT in
March, and their ends laid in the ground
till required tor use, as above men-
tioned."— Gard. Chron.

Soil. — It prefers a deep loam, though

ISchinus niolle; Siphocampyllus bico- | it will succeed on all light moderately
lor ; Sollya heteropliylla and liniaris ; fertile soils, provided they are well
Swainsonia coronilla;folia.

Tacsonia mollissima and pinnatistipula.

drained.

Flanlin^. — Walnut

trees should

W.VLNUT, EiVGLlSH. Julians regia. never be planted nearer to each other
Varieties. — Common Duck Nut ; Ha- , than sixty feet. They require no
tif; Higlitlyer; Double; Tardif; York- pruning.

shire. Of these Highflyer and Yorkshire ) Preserving the Fruit. — It is ripe in
are best. — London Hart. Sac. Catalogue. October, and should be allowed to hang
Propagation by Seed. — Sow in drills upon the tree until the outer covering
twelve inches apart and two inches and begins to crack. In this state, when
a half deep, and the nuts six inches : the tree is shaken, many of the walnuts
apart. This may be done in October, 1 as they fall will roll out of the husk.

or the nuts preserved in dry sand until
February. They will come up the same
spring, and, by the end of summer, the
young plants will be half a foot or more
high, which, after having two years'
growth in the seed-bed, plant out in the

These should be gathered into a basket,
separate from those that retain their
covering ; the latter should be laid aside
for a few days, until the husks burst,
and they can be taken out with ease.
The great object is to prevent them

nursery. Previously, when taken up, from becoming mouldy; they should,

shorten their tap roots ; but preserve
their tops entire, and plant them in
rows two feet and a half asunder, and
about eighteen inches distant in each
row. Here thev are to remain a few

therefore, be wiped clean and dry, and
laid on a shelf, in a dry place, where
they can have a free current of air, until
all tendency to mouldiness is overcome.
Great care must, however, be taken that

years, training them with single stems, they are not over dried, for that will
till five or six teet high, then transplant cause shriveling. When sufficiently

them where they are to remain.

dry they should be put into boxes ia

Those intended principally as timber ; layers, alternately with bran, fine dry
trees, as well as to bear fruit, should be \ sand, or shreds of cloth, and kept fi>r

always planted out for good when from
four to live feet high ; or, if the nuts

use in a cool dry situation. By this
means they will retain their moisture

were planted at once where the trees and flavour, and the film will with ease

are designed to remain, without trans-
planting, they would assume a quicker
and stronger growth.

By Grafting. — Mr. Knight first suc-
ceeded in this operation, and the fol-
lowing directions accord with his
mode : —

peel oir. — Gard. Cliron.

Talcing the Fruit. — There is an un-
gallant distich which says —
'•A woman, spaniel, and walnut tree,
The limier are, ilie more well thrash'd they
be.-'
But in the third instance most certainly

W A L

624

WAT

it is " a vulgnr error." Walnuts should i Liebig, from actual experiment on a
be literally gatliered or sliaken from the large scale, states that both rain and
tree, for none other bleeds more freely snow contain ammonia; and its import-
if wounded : and no result of practice ' ance appears from the fact that if there
or suggestion of science can point out j be only one-fourth of a grain in each
why the walnut tree, contrary to all pint of water, the annual deposition
others, is benefited by having its from the atmosphere would be more

branches bruised and broken.

WALNUT, BLACK. Juglans nigra.

than sufficient, on half an acre of
round, to give all the nitrogen con-

WARDL^N CASE. See Glass Case.\ tained in the vegetable albumen of 150
Stove.

WAR.IJEA cynnea
WARTWORT

sropia.

WASPS should be sedulously de-
stroyed during April, May, and June,
for all appearing in these months are
queens, and the foundresses of nests.
Their favourite resort at that season is
the laurel, for the sake of the honey
secreted by the midribs of its leaves.
They may then be caught in the hooped
gauze net of the entomologist. In Au-
gust, wasps' nests should he destroyed,

cwt. of beet root. Rain water also con-
Euphorbia hclio- tains a peculiar substance, analogous to
the extractive matter and gluten of
plants, though differing from them
chemically. To this substance, Dr.
Daubeny has given the name of pyr-
rhine. Traces of salts and oxides have
also been found in rain water, but,
compared with all other naturally pro-
duced, it is so pure, and so abounds
with the gases beneficial to plants, that
none other can equal it for their service.
That obtained from ponds or springs,

and spirit of turpentine is the best agent invariably contains matters offensive or
that can be employed for the purpose, deleterious to plants. That known as

The mode of using it when the nest is
in the earth has been thus detailed. Put
soi.,e of the turpentine into a large bot-
tle, shaking it about until the whole
of the inside is wetted by it; then fix
the neck of the bottle in the nesfs en-
trance, and place over it a large flower-
pot. By replenishing the bottle with

hard water, containing an excess of
salts of lime or magnesia, is invariably
prejudicial, and pond water is scarcely
less so. If it be stagnant, and loaded
with vegetable extract, it is even worse
than hard spring water ; for it then con-
tains carburetted hydrogen and other
matters noxious to vegetables. These

turpentine once or twice, the whole of last named waters, if obliged to be em-
the wasjis will be destroyed by the ployed to tender plants, should have a
fumes. — Gard. Chron. i pint of the ammoniacal water of the

If the nest be in a place where the gas works, mixed thoroughly with every
bottle cannot be employed, the spirit! sixty gallons, an hour or two before

may be injected by a syringe, and the
fume retained by covering up the nest's
mouth.

WATER being an essential applica-
tion to the seed, as well as to the grow-
ing plant, the source from whence it
comes is by no means immaterial. The
best for the gardener's purpose is rain
water, preserved in tanks sunk in the
earth, and rendered tight either by pud-
dling or bricks covered with Parker's

they are used.

Mr. Paxton justly observes that
" watering outdoor crops is frequently
recommended during continued dry
weather; but it should be avoided as
long as possible, as the benefit of arti-
ficial watering is but temporary, and it
has the effect of exciting the roots,
thereby rendering them more liable to
suffer when the water has evaporated.
When, in a case of emergency, it be-

cement. To keep these tanks replen- comes necessary to water, it should be

ished,guttersshould run round the eaves given morning and evening, more

of every structure in the garden, and abundantly than is usually done, and

communicate with them. Every hun- never discontinued after its commence-

dred cubic inches of rain water, con- ment, until a change in the weather

tains more than four cubic inches of air, renders it no longer necessary. Dis-

of which more than half are carbonic crimination should be used in selecting

acid gas, and the remainder nitrogen proper objects for watering; for it is

and oxygen in the proportion of sixty- no uncommon occurrence to see small

two of the former to thirty-eight of the basins of soil formed round the stems

iast named.

of fruit trees, on walls and other per-

WAT

625

WAT

manent plants, into which several pans ten or a dozen times, the ground will
of water are poured daily during become thoroughly soaked. With
drought. This must be useless or near- annuals, verbenas, and other grouping
ly so, as the roots which would take up plants, I have found this a most e.vcel-
the water, for the benefit of the plants, ' lent method. In connection with the
will form a circle at a considerable dis- , watering of strawberries, a radical im-
tance from the stem. Seed beds, or I provement is required; for although
plants which can be regularly and tho- j gardeners are prettly liberal with the
roughly watered, as radishes, lettuce, limpid fluids over the heads of the
and salading, will be much benefited,! plants, they are not good conservators
butartificial wateringoutofdoors, in the , of the quality of the fruit. It is true,
manner it is usually applied, is of little by copious watering, both the size and
service; and in the case of strawber- , quantity of the fruit is much increased ;
ries, and similar crops, mulching with ; but it is equally true that if water is
straw, grass, or some such contrivance, I used over the plants after the fruit is
which will prevent tlie rapid evapora- , half grown, the latter will be much de-
tion of moisture from the soil, is much teriorated in quality. We all know
preferable." — Card. Chron. \ that strawberries in a wet season are

Mr. S. Taylor, of Stoke Ferry, in the ' never so high flavoured as they are in a
Gardeners' Magazine for 1840, recom- I dry one, and what is the reason ? Why,
mends the use of bottles with two small : because there is a superabundance of
holes in the sides near the bottom, for | aqueous matter in the fruit; and so it
watering plants. The bottles are buried I is with the plants copiously watered
to the neck, near the roots of the flower [ overhead in dry seasons. In truth, it

which requires watering, and after
being filled and corked, the water is
allowed gradually to exude through the
holes. "This," says that good horti-
culturist, Mr. W. P. Ayres, " though
undoubtedly an ingenious method, is
objectionable, because the roots of the
plants are liable to be injured in plung-
ing the bottles, and that it would require

may be laid down as a rule, if fine fla-
voured fruit be a desideratum, water
ought never to come in contact with it
after the saccharine or maturing assi-
milation commences. Hence in water-
ing strawberries, let it be poured from
the spout of the watering pot upon the
soil, but on no account is it to touch
the fruit; or, what will be better, fork the

so many of them, where copious water- I ground over between the plants, give it a
ing was necessary. A better plan is to i good soaking, to at least the depth of a
take moderate sized flower-pots, and [ foot, and cover it two or three inches
having placed an inch or two of rough j deep with clean straw. This will both
gravel in the bottom of each, to place I prevent the evaporation of moisture.

them round the plant to be watered,
and fill with water, which as it perco-
lates gradually through the gravel, will
soak into the ground. For plants such
as standard roses, rhododendrons, &c.,
closely turfed over on lawns, or for any
thing in a sloping situation, this is a
most excellent plan, as the pots filled

and the radiation of terrestrial heat;
and as the straw, from its colour and
non-conducting qualities, will reflect
instead of absorbing the heat, the fruit,
being subjected to increased tempera-
ture, will, in consequence, be improved
in flavour. If water is required after
the straw is placed on the beds, let it

with water may be placed at night, and be applied through pots, placed one

removed the next morning, so as not to foot apart, as recommended above for

become an eyesore. Watering plants plants on a lawn." — Gard. Chron.

in flower beds is at all times a difficult I agree with those who recommend

matter, because if the borders are suf- " sunrise as the best time for the water-

ficiently full of soil to give them a con- ing of exposed plants. Evaporation no

vex form, which they always ought to doubt will then go on freely; but the

have, the water runs to the sides of the atmosphere is beginning to get warmer,

borders as fast as it is poured on. In and the sun's rays to exert tlieir coun-

such cases it will be found advisable to teracting influence. The darkened sur-

perforate the beds asthickly as possible, face — that very condition which made

without injuring the roots, to the depth the soil throw otT its heat more readily

of six or eight inches, with a stick one during the night, causes itto imbibe tho

inch in diameter, and by filling these , heat of the sun's rajs by day with in-
40

WAT

626

WAT

creased facility, so that you thus have
the greatest amount of the fostering
agencies of heat and moisture for the
growth of plants. When evening again
comes round, the surface moisture has
been dried up, and its colour again ren-
dered of a lighter shade ; there is con-
sequently little diminution of tempera-

WATER CRESS. Nasturtium of-
ficinale.

Varieties. — Small brown - leaved,
hardiest; Large brown-leaved, best for
deep water; Green-leaved, easiest cul-
tivated.— London Hart. Soc. Trans.

Planting in Water. — On this we
have the following good directions in

ture beyond surrounding objects, either | the Bon Jardinier. The depth of the

from evaporation or radiation of heat.
■ — Gard. Chron.

trenches in which they are grown being
entirely dependent upon that of the

Although an excess of water applied springs by which they are supplied
to the roots of plants is injurious to | with water, the former are so prepared
them, yet all of them are benefited by ' that, as nearly as possible, a regular
a due supply of that liquid, and the ' depth of three or four inches can be
su])ply has to be regulated by the kept up. These trenches are three
amount oftheir daily transpiration. The ' yards broad, and eighty-seven yards
gardener knows that this differs in every long, and whenever one is to be plant-
species, and during different seasons, ed, the bottom is made quite firm and
For instance, in a dry hot day, a sun- | slightly sloping, so that the water which
flower three feet and a half high trans- flows in at one end may run out at the
pired 1 lib. 4 oz., being seventeen times i other. If the bottom of the trench is
more than the human body; during a 1 not sufficiently moist, a small body of
Lot dry night, 3 oz.; during a dewy water is allowed to enter to soften it.
night there was no transpiration, and ! The cresses are then taken and divided
during a rainy night the plant absorbed into small sets or cuttings, with roots
3 oz. Therefore, the gardener finds it ' attached to them ; and these are thrown
best to apply water during dry weather | over the bottom of the trench at the
early in the morning, just before the 1 distance of three or four inches from
chief demand occurs, which is from six '■ each other. The cress soon attaches
A.M., till two in the afternoon; and i itself to the damp earth; in three or
during moist weather he refrains from four days the shoots straighten and be-
the application entirely. Then again gin to strike root. At the end of fivR
the gardener keeps his agaves and other ; or six days, a slight dressing of well
fleshy-leaved plants in a dry stove, for ; decomposed cow-dung is spread over
they transpire but sparingly in propor- | all the plants, and this is pressed down
tion to their mass, and require watering ' by means of a heavy board, to which a
but seldom, and then abundantly; for 1 long handle is obliquely fixed. The
they take up, as in their native silicious ! water is then raised to the depth of
habitats, a large supply, and retain it| two or three inches, and never higher,
pertinaciously in defiance of the long- ' Each trench is thus replanted annually,
protracted droughts to which they are ' and furnishes twelve crops during the
exposed. In the same species I have ' season. In the summer the cresses are
always found varieties transpire abun- ' gathered every fifteen or twenty days,
dantly and require a large supply of ! but less frequently during winter : care
water in proportion to the extent of is taken that at each gathering at least
their transpiring surface. Thus the ' a third part of the bed is left untouched,
broad-leaved fuchsias and pelargoniums so that neither the roots may be ex-
transpire from two to three times as hausted, nor the succeeding gathering
much as those varieties which have j delayed. After every cutting, a little
smaller and less abundant foliage. 1 decayed cow-dung, in the proportion
Excessive moisture induces that over | of two large barrowfuls to each trench,
succulency, which is ever attended by i is spread over the naked plants, and
weakness, unnatural growth, and early | this is beaten down by means of the
decay. Such plants more than any ; rammer above mentioned. After the
others are sufferers by sudden vicissi- ' water cresses have been thus treated
tudes in the hygrometric state of the for a twelvemonth, the manure forms a
atmosphere, and are still more fatally tolerably thick layer at the bottom o{
▼ isited, if exposed to low reductions of; the trench, and tends to raise its level.

temperature." — Princ. of Gard.

To restore it to its original level, all

WAT

627

WAT

the refuse ehouKl he thrown out upon so formed as to give the water thrnun
the borders which separate the trenches from them the nearest resemblance to
from each other. These borders may a gentle shower of rain, which renders

be planted with artichokes, cabbages,
or cauliflowers, which will here attain
a great size. Cress-grounds should al-
ways be at a distance from trees, on
account of the leaves, which otherwise
drive amongst the plants, and require
much time to pick out. There are
two weeds which, even in the cleanest
cress-grounds, can scarcely be kept
under; these are the Duckweed and
Zannichellia palustris, which both mul-
tiply so quickly, that unless carefully
rooted out, they do great injury to the
cresses. The Zannichellia may be
kept under by careful hand-weeding,
and the Duckweed by raising the wa-
ter, so as to make it float above the
cress plants, when it may be skimmed
off.

Planting in Borders. — This must be
done in September and in a moist shady
border. Plant slips, and the only cul-
tivation necessary is to dig the earth
fine, to draw a slight trench with a hoe,
to fill this with water until it becomes
a mud, to cover it about an inch deep
with drift sand, and then to stick in the
slips about six inches apart, watering
them until established. The sand keeps
the plants clean. They will be ready
for gathering from in a very few weeks,
and the shoots should be invariably cut
and not picked. They are not so mild
flavoured as those grown in water, but
then they are free from aquatic insects,
&c.

WATERFALL. See Cascade.

WATER GERMANDER. Teucrium
Scordium.

WATERING ENGINE. See En-
gine.

WATERING POTS. These should
have roses pierced with very fine holes ;
the diameter of those usually used is
too large. Long-spouted watering pots
are required for watering plants in pots
upon shelves. French watering pots
have zigzag bends in the spout to break
from the plant the force of the water.
Shelf watering pots are small and flat-
bodied for giving water to plants over-
head, and near the glass in green-houses '
or stoves. '

" The accompanying engraving is of
a watering pot from Mr. G. Thompson,
390 Oxford Street, who states that its
superiority consists in the roses being

it peculiarly suitable for watering seed-
lings or other tender plants. As the
brass joints which connect the roses to
the spout are made water-tight, there
is no danger of its returning outside, to

Fig. 176.

the annoyance of the person using it:
a is the spout to which the roses are
screwed ; b, the box to contain either
spout out of use; c and d, the holes in
which the joints are placed ; e, a largo
rose for watering flower beds; /, a
smaller rose for watering plants in
pots." — Gard. Chron.

Another watering pot is the follow-
ing, and suggested by Mr. Williamson.

"No. 1 represents the original,
which differs from a common watering
pot in having its tube inserted in a
horizontal position, with a brass valve
near the point, through which passes a
brass wire or rod, held in its proper
position by two strong transverse pieces
of wire, perforated in the centre, and

Fig. 177.

connected with a crank or lever, be-
tween the lower part of which and
the side of the pot is a steel spring,
which propels the piston and shuts the
valve. From the top of the Jever is

WAT

628

W E A

fixed a brass rod, which is kept in its , hand or the left : by drawing up the
place by a collar brazed to the side of spring 6 with the forefinger, the valve
the pot. In raising, the rod is pressed is raised by means of the connecting rod
by the finger. No. 2 represents the im- : 5, and consequently the water flows
provements, which consist in a double , into the tubes 1 and 2; as soon as the
lever, acting like the key of a flute. , finger is removed from the spring, the
Instead of the steel spring at the end i valve falls, and the water is stopped.
of the lever, a spiral one of brass wire | The spring is fixed on the under side of
IS fi.xed within the point of the tube, , the handle, and nearly all inclosed in
ammediately before the valve, which it that part made to fit the hand. Fig 2
shuts; at the other end of the tube is a represents the bottom of the can ; the
convex rose of copper, to prevent dirt, dotted line showing the size of the
&c., passing into the tube, through the valve; 1 shows the point at which the
centre of which passes the rod in con- water flows into the tubes." — Card.
nexion with the lever and the valve.
No. 3 differs from the preceding only
in having a movable curved tube at-
tached to the pipe, at the top of which
is a very fine rose about an inch in
diameter. From the length of tube Z"S, var

Chron.

WATER LEMON. Passiflora lauri-
folia.

WATER LILY. Nymphea.

WATER MELON. Cucumis Citrui-

( about twenty inches) the pressure of
•water is considerable, when the pot
held in an inclined position, producing

WATER PLANTS. See Aquarium.
WATER PURSLANE. Peplis.
WATER VINE. Tetracera potato-

a light shower admirably suited to small i ria

seeds." — Gard. Chron.

A third invention is Mr. Saul's, and,
he says, " it can be constructed at a
very little more expense than those in
general use. In the annexed sketch,
Fig. 1 represents a section of the can ;
1 1 are removeable tubes, having roses
on their upper ends, while the lower

WATER VIOLET. Hottonia.

W A T S 0 N I A . Fifteen species.
Green-house bulbous perennials. Off-
sets or seeds. Sandy loam and peat.

WAYFARING TREE. Viburnum
Lantana.

WEATHER. The gardener, even
more than the farmer, is dependent upon

ends slide over the tube 2, fixed into the weather for opportunity to insert and

the can ; 3 is a valve placed over this to remove the plants under his care. I

tube, made of strong leather, and hav- shall, therefore, give him all the prog-

ing a small block of wood on the top nostics which appear worthy of attention.

like those in common pumps, the bot-
tom of the can being wood, the valve is j
screwed on it, as shown at 4, in such a

Fig. 17S.

manner as to be easily taken off, when

it requires to be repaired. The rod 5

)3 connected with the valve 3, and the

spring 6; when used, the can may be | .23 The'wA'^w/ng-'jt'inV the

held by the handle, either in the right

1. The hollow winds begin to blow,

2. The clouds look black, the glass is low;

3. The soot falls down, the spaniels sleep,

4. And spiders from their cobwebs peep ;

5. Last night the su)i went pale to bed ;

6. The mooii in hales hid her head.

7. The boding shepherd heaves a sigh,
■'. For see. a. rainbow spans the sky ;

9 The icalls are damp, the ditches smell,
lit. Closed is the pink-eyed pimperriell :
11. Kark 1 how the chairs and tables crack,
\i. Old Hetty's joints are on the rack;

13. Loud quack the ducks. \he peacocks cry,

14. The distant hills are looking nigh;

15. How restless are the snorting 5!{)">!f,

16. The husyfies disturb the kine ;

17. Low o'erthe grass the sivallow wings,
IS. The cricket, too. how sharp he sings :

19. Puss on the hearth, wilh velvet paws,
Sits wiping o"er her whisker'd jaws ;

20. Through the clear stream the fishes rise,
And nimbly catch th" incautious flies;

21. The glow-worms, numerous and bright,
Illumed the dewy dell last night;

22. At night the squalid toad was seen
Hopping and crawling o'er the green ;

And in the rapid eddy plays;

VV E A

629

W E A

24. The/rog" has changed his yellow vest,
And in a russet coat is drest ;

25. Thougli June, the air is cold yet still ;

26. The blackbird's mellow voice is shrill j

27. My dog. so alter'il is his taste,

Quits mutton bones, on grass to feast ;
29. And see yon rooks, how odd their flight.
They imitate the gliding kite.
And seem precipitate to tall,
As il'they felt the piercing hall;
'Twill surely rain, I see, with sorrow.
Our jaunt cannot take place to-morrow.

In the foregoing rhymes, attributed to
Dr. Jenner, are comprised nearly all the
natural phenomena which predicate ap-
proacliing rain, and most of them are
sustained by our more scienced know-
ledge.

Thus the wind, when rain is ap-
proaching, causes more moaning and

has been observed by Linnxus, adds
Sir J. E. Smith, that flowers lose this
fine sensibility, either after the anthers
have performed their otBce, or when
deprived of them artificially; nor do I
doubt the fact. I have had reason to
think that, during a long continuance of
wet, the Anagnllis is sometimes ex-
hausted ; and it is evident that very sud-
den thunder showers oftener take such
flowers by surprise, the previous state
of the atmosphere not having been such
as to give them due warning.

The cracking of furniture is the ne-
cessary consequence of the dry woody
fibre expanding when exposed to moist-
er air. Distant objects appear nearer
when rain is at hand, because the air is
rarer at such times, and objects always
whistling sounds in passing through the [ appear distinct in proportion to the
crevices and crannies of our houses, on , rarity of the gaseous medium through
the same principle that all other gases, which they are viewed. Sivallou-s fly

in pro|)ortion as they are more or less
heated, or more or less dry, cause
louder or lower sounds in passing
through the orifices of small tubes.

Soot falls because it absorbs more
moisture from the air as rain approaches,
and becoming heavier breaks away from
its slender attachment to the chimney's
walls. A halo round the moon is caused
by the rays of its light passing through
moisture precipitated from the air, and
the larger the halo, the nearer is such
precipitated moisture to the earth, and
consequently the rain is at hand.

Walls become damp from the same
cause that soot falls, when rain is ap-

low at such times, probably for two rea-
sons : insects are then more busy near
the earth's surface, and the rarity of
the atmosphere renders flying more la-
borious in proportion to the height to
which a bird soars. The changed habits
of animals at the approach of rain, are
perhaps to be accounted for by the al-
tered state of the atmospheric pressure,
and of the air's electricity causing a
change of sensations which warns them
by past experience that the season of
discomfort or of pleasure, as their na-
ture may be, is coming upon them.

These natural phenomena combined
with a careful attention to the indica-

proaching, namely, because the moist- ^ tions of the Barometer, are much less
ure in the air is more abundant, and in erring guides than tables founded upon
a state of mixture with it more easily the moon's changes. It is impossible,
separable. Walls that thus become | in the present imperfect state of our
damp, contain chloride of calcium, or meteorological knowledge, to say that
other salts which are deliquescent, that the moon has no influence upon the
is, absorb moisture from the air. Ditches weather, but it is next to certain that
smell in rainy weather, because all other influences are much more power-
odours are conveyed with more facility ful and controlling. The same moon
by damp than by dry air. Not only rises and sets and changes in Hindoo-
does the pimpernell(/in(igaZ/« ari'sns/s) stan as in England, yet in that climate,
close its flowers when exposed to damp its wet and hot and cold seasons, its
air, but those of many other plants are , northeast and southwest monsoons ar-
similarly sensitive. Co;jro/i-«/usarfens?s I rive with a changeless regularity and
(field Hindweed), Anagallis arreTisiS, intensity that demonstrate the moon's
Calendula pluvialis, Arenaria rubra \ influence there has no paramount con-

(purple Sandwort), Stellaria media
(Chickweed or Stitchwort), and many

The facts established by Mr. Forster

others, are well known to shut up their and other acute observers of the ba-
flowers against the approach of rain ; rometer, appear to be these: — 1. Not
whence the Anagallis has been called j the great height or depression of the
" the Poor Man's Weather Glass." It! mercury is so much to be regarded as
40*

WE A

630

WE A

whether it continues to rise or decline.
2. If the mercury falls when the wind
blows nearly from due south, rain is
approaching. 3. If it falls in hot wea-
ther, there will be thunder. 4. If it
rises in winter, frost is nigh ; and if, the
frost continuing, it still rises, there will
be snow. 5. If it falls much during
frost, a thaw will set in. 6. A change
taking place immediately after the mer-
cury rises or falls, rarely endures. 7.
If the mercury continues to rise during
wet weather, or to fall during fine wea-
ther, a permanent change will come.
I am indebted to Mr. W. H. White,

6. The barometer at all seasons of the
year will fall very low and very ra-
pidly on the approach of a storm of
wind without rain ; on the approach
of an earthquake too, though it be
four or five hundred miles off"!

7. If the barometer fall with an easterly
or northeast wind, rain will follow.

8. If the crown of the mercury in the
tube be convex, it indicates a rising
will take place ; if concave, it will
soon fall.

These are a few of the changes pecu-
liar to England. The operating causes
of the oscillations involve one of the

one of the intelligent Secretaries of the I most interesting inquiries belonging to
Meteorological Society, for the follow- | meteorology. Electricity is the grand
ing observations: — i mover of the barometric column. Many

other rules might be gathered from the

BAROMETRIC FLUCTUATIONS. restlessness of animals, the flights of

1. The barometer in calm serene wea- birds, and the gambols of fishes; all

ther generally ranges pretty high, ' indicating by their motions that there is

rather above thirty inches ; if the a change taking place in the electrical

fluctuations daily are very small, but
still rather getting higher, a fine se-
ries of days or weeks may be expect-
ed.

2. When the barometer is below twen-
ty-nine inches, and the clouds dis-
perse with but little wind, it will be-
come stationary for a day or two, till
the electrical equilibrium of the air
be destroyed : if it then rise, expect
fair weather; if it fall, expect a storm
of wind accompanied with rain or
hail, according to the season.

3. When the barometer ranges between
29 and 29. CO, if the clouds hang low
and float before a west or southwest
wind, almost every cloud will deposit
its contents, especially if passing over
an elevation, a wood, and sometimes
a river. In all cases the hygrometer
should be considered : if the air be
dry and the barometer fall, wind will
follow; if the air be saturated with
moisture, rain or sleet, according to
season.

4. When the thermometer ranges in ! has been deduced from this, whereby

condition of the atmosphere.

NATURAL APPEARANCES.

1. In winter, a red sky at sunrise indi-
cates the speedy approach of rain.

2. In summer, the same appearance de-
notes refreshing showers.

3. Squalls of wind generally follow
these appearances: — " It will be foul
weather to-day, for the sky is red and
lowering." Matt. xvi. 3.

4. Small patches of white clouds, like
flocks of sheep at rest, indicate con-
tinued fine weather.

5. Large mountainous (or Jupiterian)
clouds, called cumulo stratus, pro-
duce sudden showers in spring and
autumn, and hail-storms in summer
and winter.

6. When large clouds diminish in size,
fine weather will follow ; if they in-
crease, rain or snow.

7. Rainbows denote frequent showers.
Spiders generally alter their webs

once in twenty-four hours; and a rule

summer between 70" and 80°, and
the barometer falls rapidly and exten-
sively, thunder will follow with hail
or heavy rain.
5. In winter, when the thermometer

to foretell the coming change. If they
thus alter their web between six and
seven in the evening, there will be a
fine night; if in the morning, a fine
day; if they work during rain, expect
ranges below freezing, and a low j fine weather; and the more active and
barometer begins to rise, expect j busy the spider is, the finer will be the
snow to follow; but if the thermo- j weather. If spiders' webs (gossamer) fly
meter rise and the barometer fall ' in the autumn, with a south wind, expect
during frosty weather, a thaw will | an east wind and fine weather. If gar-
quickly follow. i den spiders break ofi" and destroy their

W E A

631

WEE

webs, and creep away, expect continued
rain and showery weatiier.

The Leech also possesses the pecu-
liar property of indicating approaching
changes of the weather in a most enii-

depositing the rain arc opposite to the
sun, — thus in the morning the bow is in
tlie west, and in the evening it is in the
east; and, as the rains in this country
are usually brought by westerly winds.

nent degree. In fair and frosty weather a bow in that quarter indicates that the
it remains motionless and rolled up in a rain is coming towards the spectator;
spiral form at the bottom of the vessel ; whereas a bow in the east indicates that
previously to rain or snow, it will creep rain is passing aw-ay.' " — Salmonia.
to the top, where, should the rain be i fVind. — Mr. Christensen says, that
heavy, or of long continuance, it will the wind changing to any point of the
remain for a considerable time; if tri- I compass between e.s.e. and n.n.w.
fling, it will descend. Should the rain causes the mercury to rise; and a
or snow be accompanied with wind, it change to any point between w. and s.
will dart about with great velocity, and ! causes it to be depressed,
seldom cease its evolutions until it i WEEDS should be warred upon un-
blows hard. If a storm of thunder or remittingly by the gardener, for not only
lightning be approaching, it will be ex- 1 does their presence detract from that
ceedingly agitated, and express its feel-! neatness which should be the all-per

ings in violent convulsive starts at the
top of the glass. These animal move-
ments are all induced, probably, by
sensations in the animal occasioned by
changes in the atmospheric electricity.

Rain may be Expected — When the
sounds of distant waterfalls, &c., are
distinctly heard — When the sun rises
pale and sparkling — When the sun rises
amidst ruddy clouds — When the sun
sets behind a dark cloud — When there
is no dew after heat in summer — When
there is much hoar frost in winter —
When mists rest on the mountain tops
— When snails and frogs beset your
evening walk — When gnats bite vigor-
ously— When animals are unusually
restless.

Fair Weather may be Expected

vading characteristic of the garden, but
every weed robs the soil of a portion of
the nutriment which should be devoted
to the crops.

To destroy them, the hoes and weed-
irig irons should be unremittingly at
work. Neither should weeds be al-
lowed to remain where cut down, but
should be gathered together, and mixed
with saline matters, to convert them
into most valuable fertilizers. Never
burn them. No weed will endure being
continually cut down, and when cut
down, it should be carried to a common
heap, and a peck of common salt, and
a gallon of gas ammoniacal liquor,
mixed with every barrow load. The
whole speedily becomes a saponaceous
mass ; all seeds in it are destroyed ; and
it is rendered one of the best fertilizers

-When none of the signs of rain just the gardener can command.

given occur — When the sun sets red
and cloudless — When the moon's horns
are sharp — When the stars shine bright-
ly— When smoke rises easily — When
moths and beetles appear in numbers.

Clouds. — " When it is evening, ye
say. It will be fair weather, for the sky
is 'red." {Matt. xvi. 2.) "And this
observation of nineteen centuries past
is explained by the optical fact, that dry
air refracts more of the red rays of light,
than when it is moist; and as dry air
is not perfectly transparent, those rays
are reflected in the horizon." — Dari/'s
Salmon in.

Rainbow. — " When this is seen in the
morning, it betokens rain ; but if in the
evening, fair weather; and Sir H. Davy
thus explains this phenomenon : — ' The
bow can be seen only when the clouds

WEEDING TOOLS.
Fig. 179.

See Hoe. Be-

WEE

632

WIR

sides spuds, weeding pincers, and hoes,
there are several implements invent-
ed for eradicating the deeper-rooting
■weeds. Such are Hall's Land Crab
(Fig. 179), Dockspuds and the Guernsey
Weeding Prong (Fig. ISO).

WEEVIL. See Anthonomus and
Otiorhyncus.

WEIGHTS.

AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT.

16 Drachms, 1 ounce.

16 Ounces,

1 pound.

28 Pounds,

1 quarter.

4 Quarters,

1 cwt.

20 Cvvt.,

1 ton.

WEIGHTS

AS IN ENGLAND.

14 Pounds,

1 Stone.

8 Pounds,

1 Stone butchers'

meat.

56 Pounds,

1 truss of hay.

36 Pounds,

1 truss of straw.

36 Trusses,

1 load.

WELCH ONION. See Cihoule.

WENDLANDIA parazcu/a/a. A Stove
evergreen tree ; and W. populifolia, a
green-house evergreen twiner. Cut-
tings. Loam, peat and sand.

WESTRINGIA. Ten species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Light rich soil.

WHEELBARROWS. The greater

If a wheelbarrow be made of wood,
the feet and handles should be capped
with iron, and its joints strengthened
with bands of the same metal. Iron
barrows are now made weighing no
more than ninety-two pounds, and they
run very light.

The longer the handles of a wheel-
barrow are, and the nearer the load to
the wheel, the easier is that load lifted,
and the easier is the barrow turned over
to discharge the load.

WHIRLING PLANT, Desmodium
gyrans.

WHITE BEAN TREE. Pyrus Avia.

WHITE CEDAR. Cupressm thy-
aides.

WHITE SPRUCE. Pinm Alba.

WHITE TREE. Melaleuca Leuca-
dendron.

WHITE VINE. Clematis vitalba.

WHITEFIELDIA lateritia. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Leafy
mould and loam.

WHORTLE BERRY. Vaccinium.

WIDOW WAIL. Cneorum.

WIGANDIA caracasana. Stove de-
ciduous shrub. Seeds. Loam and peat.

WILDERNESS. See Labyrinth.

WILD LIQUORICE. Abi-us.

WILD SERVICE. Pyrus torminalis.

WILDENOVIA. Two species.

the diameter of the wheel of a barrow. Grasses. Division. Loam and peat,
and the smaller the axis or spindle on I WILLEMETIA africana. Stove
which it turns, the less power will be j evergreen shrub. Young cuttings.
required to drive it forward ; for the Sandy loam and peat.

friction is proportionately reduced.

The diameter of the wheel might be
increased with manifest advantage to
double that now employed, for even
then it would be below the point of
draught or impulsion (the hand of the
labourer) ; and the nearer it can be
brought to a level with this, the more
efficiently he exerts his power. I

The breadth ofthe wheel's periphery,
or felloes, might be also increased two
inches advantageously; for, as it is al-
ways employed upon a surface in some
degrees soft, such an increased breadth
would decrease the depth to which the
wheel of a loaded barrow usually sinks
into the soil, and would proportionately
decrease the power required to over-
come the augmented opposition. In a
wheelbarrow so constructed, a man

WILLOW. Salix.

WILLUGHBEIA edulis. Stove ever-
green shrub. Cuttings. Loam, peat,
and sand.

WIND FLOWER. Gentiana Pneu-
monanthe, and Anemone.

WINGED PEA. Tetragonolobus pur-
pureus.

WINTER ACONITE. Eranthis.

WINTER BERRY. Prinos.

WINTER CHERRY. Physalis, and
Cardiospermum Halicacabum.

WINTER CRESS. Earbarea.

WINTER MOTH. See Cheimatobia.

WINTER SWEET. Origanum hera-
cleoticum.

WIRE -WORMS are the larva; of
various species of Elater, Click Beetle,
or Skip Jack. Of these there are more

might move with more ease eight hun- , than fifty species; but the most common
dred weight, than he now impels five are: —

hundred weight, which is a full barrow
load.

E. segetis, of which the wire-worm is
often so abundant in old pastures, and

W I R

633

W OR

of which the ravages are so great oc- ,
casionally upon our corn crops. 1

E. sputator. Spring beetle. The
larva or wire-worm of this is particularly
destructive to the lettuce and carrot.

of which they are fonder than they are
of the roots of those flowers. Potatoes,
with a string tied round them to mark
where they are, and to facilitate their
being taken out of the soil in which

The following general description of, they are buried ; and carrots siinilarly
the click beetles and their larvae, is thrust into the earth where the wire-
given by Mr. Cuthbert Johnson, in the I worm is ravaging, are successful lures.

Farmers'' Encyclopedia : —

The vermin prefers these, buries itself

" Click beetles are readily known by in them, and may be easily removed,
having the sternum produced behind in The roots of the white mustard also are
a strong s^ine fitted to enter a groove said to drive the wire-worm away from
in the abdomen, situated between the the soil on which it is grown." — Brit.
intermediate pair of legs. By bringing Farm. JMag.

these parts suddenly into contact, the Mr. Glenny says, " that Mr. May,
insects are enabled to spring to some nurseryman, Tottenham, plants the
height into the air, and thus recover common daisy round his principal beds,
their natural position when they happen finding the wire-worm prefer it to the
to fall on their backs, which they fre- carrot."' — Gard. Gazette.
quently do when dropping from plants And Mr. Oram, Edmonton, says "that
to the ground. A special provision of, the double daisy is employed by one of
this kind is rendered necessary in con-; his friends, who, in one summer, from
sequence of the shortness and weakness a row of daisies three hundred feet
of their legs. long? I'as taken 2,000 wire-worms." —

"The wire- worms have a long, Card. C/iron.
slender, and cylindrical body, covered WISK MEN'S BANANA TREE,
by a hard crust, which has obtained for Musa Hapientum.

them the above name. They are com- 1 WISTARIA. Two species. Hardy
posed of twelve segments, fitting closely j deciduous climbers. Layers, and also
to each other; and are provided with | cuttings. Light rich soil. IV. sinensis
six conical scaly feet, placed in pairs on j requires the shelter of a wall, and to be

the three segments next the head. The
latter is furnished with short antenna'
palpi, and two strong mandibles or
jaws.

" To remove the wire-worm from a
soil, no mode is known but frequently

pruned about the beginning of March ;
cut the leading shoots about half-way
back, and spur the others in rather short.

WITCH HAZEL. Hamamelis.

WITHERINGIA. Seven species.
Stove and green-house evergreen shrubs

digging it and picking them out, as their j and herbaceous perennials. W. pur-
yellow colour renders them easily de-Uiurea is tuberous rooted; IV . phyllantha ,
tected. To prevent their attack upon a a green-house annual. Cuttings or
crop, mix a little spirit of tar, or a larger seeds. Light rich soil,
quantity of gas lirne, with the soil. It

has been stated that growing white \ house herbaceous perennials
mustard drives them away, and it is or seeds. Sandy peat,
certainly worth the trial. To entrap

WITSENIA. Three species. Green-
Oftseta

them, and tempt them away from a crop linum.
they have attacked, bury potatoes in the j "

soil near the crop ; and if each potato
has a stick thrust through it, this serves
as a handle by which it may be taken
up, and the wire worms which have
penetrated it be destroyed. To decoy ;
them from beds of anemones, ranuncu-
luses, &c., it is said to be a successful
plan to grow round the beds an edging

WOLF'S BANE. Aconitum lupu-

WOOD ASHES. See Ashes.

WOODBINE. Caprifolium Pericly-
menum.

WOOD LEOPARD MOTH. See
Bomhyi.

WOODLICE. See Oniscus.

WOODROOF. Asperula.

WOOD SORREL. Oxalis.

WOOLLEN RAGS. See Animal

of daisies, for the roots of which they Matters.

have a decided preference.

WORKING is a gardener's term for

" If a crop be attacked, as the pansy the practice of grafting. " To work"
or carnation, our only resource is to! upon a stock is to graft or bud it.
bury in the soil other vegetable matters, ' WORMS are beneficial in all the

WOR

634

XIP

compartments of the garden, acting as ;
a kind of underdrainers, by their bur-
rowings. To keep them from coming
near the surface of lawns, it may be |
sprinkled with salt at the rate of live '
bushels per acre, three times a year, in i

ed and thinned to six inches asunder ;
and those taken away pricked at a like
distance ; water being given if the wea-
ther is at all dry. The slips and cut-
tings are planted in a shady border,
about eight inches apart, and water

spring, summer, and autumn. The ! given regularly every evening until they
most speedy destruction is brought upon j have taken root.

them by dissolving two ounces of corro- The only cultivation required is to
sive sublimate in every forty gallons of, clear away the decayed stalks in au-
water, and applying this profusely on I tumn, and to keep them constantly clear
the grass infested. The worms come j of weeds by frequent hoeings. To
to the surface and may be destroyed by i obtain seed no further care is required
thousands. The sublimate is a virulent : than to gather the stems as they ripen
poison. Lime-water always must be an ! in autumn. The Roman seldom per-

uncertain application, because even if
the lime be fresh from the kiln, there is
never any certainty of its being per-
fectly calcined, and every particle
which remains combined with carbonic
acid, is still chalk, and insoluble. The
strength of lime water is consequently
never uniform.

Worms should not be allowed to re-
main in garden pots, for they puddle
the soil in so confined a space.

WORMIA dentata. Stove evergreen
tree. Ripe cuttings, with the leaves on.
Light loam, or loam and peat.

WORMWOODS. Artemisia. These
are perennial rooted bitter aromatics,
and cultivated solely for medicinal pur-
poses. Common wormwood {Artemisia
absinthium) ; Sea-wormwood (A. mari-
tima) ; Roman wormwood {A. Fontica) ;
Santonicum, or Tartarian wormwood
{A. Santonica).

Soil. — The soil best suited to them is

fects its seed.

WOUNDWORT. Anthyllis vulnera-
ria.

WOUNDS. See Extravasafed Sap.

WRIGHTIA. Four species. Stove
evergreen trees and shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.

WULFENIA carinthiaca. Hardy
herbaceous perennial. Division or
seeds. Light rich soil.

WURMBEA. Four species. Green-
house and half-hardy bulbous peren-
nials. Offsets. Sandy peat and loam.

WYCH ELM. Ultnus montana.

XANTHORIZA apiifolia. Hardy
evergreen shrub. Suckers. Common
soil.

XANTHORRH^A. Six species.
Green-house evergreen shrubs, or herb-
aceous perennials. Offsets. Loam and
peat.

XANTHOSIA rotundifolia. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Cuttings or

one that is dry, light, and poor, other- I seeds. Loam, peat, and sand.

wise they grow luxuriantly, and are de- j XANTHOXYLUM. Fourteen spe-

fective in their medicinal qualities, as j cies. Stove and green-house evergreen

well as in their power to withstand the : and hardy deciduous trees and shrubs.

rigour of the winter. Any situation will i Ripe cuttings. Common soil.

suit the common and sea wormwoods, ! XERANTHEMUM. Three species.

that is open and unconfined, but the Hardy annuals. Seeds. Light rich soil.

exotic species require to be sheltered i XEROPHYLLUM. Four species.

from the severe aspects. In a severe Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division

winter, the Tartarian can only be pre- j or seeds. Peaty soil.

served under a frame. The sea worm- XIMENESIA. Five species. Hardy

wood seldom flourishes, from the want [ annuals and biennials, and green-house

of a genial soil ; the application of salt j herbaceous perennials. Seeds. Corn-

would undoubtedly be beneficial. mon soil.

Propagation. — They are all propa- \ XIMENIA.
gated by seed, as well as slips and cut- evergreen trees
tings, the first of which may be sown in I peat.
March or April ; and the latter planted [ XIPHIDIUM. Two species. Stove
during June, July, and beginning of ; herbaceous perennials. Division. Loam,

Two species. Stove
Cuttings. Loam and

August. The seed is sown thinly broad-
cast ; and when the plants arrive at a
height of two or three inches, are weed-

peat, and sand.

XIPHOPTERIS. Two species. One
a stove, the other a green-house peren-

X YL

Division or seeds.

635

Z YG

Loam and

ZIERIA. Ten species. Green-house
evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. San-
dy loam and peat.

ZIGADENLS. Five species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division or
seeds. Peaty moist soil.

ZILLA. Two species. Half-hardy
evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Light rich
soil.

ZIXZIBER. Ginger. Thirteen spe-
cies. Stove herbaceous perennials,
except Z. miega, which belongs to the
green-house. Division. Loam, peat,
and sand.

ZINNL\. Eight species. Hardy an-
nuals. Seeds. Rich mould, or common
soil.

ZIZIA. Three species. Hardy herb-
Division or seeds.

nial.
peat.

XYLOMELUM pyriforme. Green-
liouse evergreen tree. Ripe cuttings.
Loam, peat, and sand.

XYLOPHYLLA. Eleven species.
Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings.
Loam and peat.

XYLOPLA.. Three species. Stove
evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Loam
and peat.

YELLOW SULTAN. Centaurea sua-
veolens.

YELLOW-TAILED MOTH. See
Bombyi.

YEW TREE. Taxus.

YUCCA. Adam's Needle. Thirteen
species. Hardy, stove, and green-house
evergreen shrubs, and a few hardy herb- aceous perennials
aceous perennials. Y. pendula, a vari- ! Moist soil,
ety of Y. aloifolia, is a hardy deciduous \ ZIZIPHORA. Seven species. Hardy
tree. Suckers. Light rich soil. j annuals, Z. acmo/des a hardy deciduous

" Cut the flower-stem off Yucca glori- trailer, and the others half-hardy ever-
osa directly it has done flowering, and green shrubs. The latter increase by
take away all the suckers, except two cuttings, the former by seeds. Common
or three of the strongest. Then remove soil.

a little of the soil round the bottom of ZIZYPHUS. Lotus. Fourteen spe-
the plant, and replace it with a dressing cies. Stove, green-house, hardy, and
of equal parts of sandy loam and cow- half-hardy evergreen, and a few hardy
dung." — Card. Chron. ' deciduous shrubs. The stove and green-

ZAMIA. Twenty-one species. Stove house kinds increase by ripe cuttings,
or green-house herbaceous perennials, and succeed in loam, peat, and sand;
Suckers. Light sandy soil. the hardy kinds by ripe cuttings or lay-

ZEBRA PLANT. Calathea zebrina. ers, and require a rich soil.

ZEPHYRANTHES. Eleven species. ZORNL\. Seven species. Stove an-
Green-house and half-hardy bulbous pe- nuals and green-house herbaceous pe-
rennials, and a few hardy and half-hardy rennials. Seeds. Peat and loam,
herbaceous perennials. Off^sets. Turfy ZYGOPETALUM. Six species. Stove
loam, peat, and sand. orchids. Division. Peat and potsherds.

ZEXME^IA tagetijlora. Half-hardy ZYGOPHYLLUiAL Thirteen species,
herbaceous perennial. Seeds. Com- Green-house and stove evergreen shrubs,
mon soil. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. Z.

ZICHYA. Three species. Green- prostratum is a trailer ; Z. simplex, a
house evergreen twiners. Young cut- half hardy annual ; and Z./a6ag:o is in-
tings. Sandy loam and peat. creased by seeds only.

THE END.

LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 1

LYNCH'S DEAD SEA.

CONDENSED AND CHEAPER EDITION. NOW READY.

NARRATIVE OF ThTu. S. EXPEDITION

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BY W. F. LYNCH, U.S.N.,

Coinmaiider of the Expedition.

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we follow him with eagerness in his perilous and tortuous voyage down the Jordan,
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which he fully explored. If our readers ^vish to know all he has done, they must
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that the publishers have done their full duty in their department, and the maps and
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*

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ALSO,

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The whole of Mr. Wirt's Papers, Correspoiulence. Diaries. &:c., having been placed
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the private life of Mr Wirt

The exceedingly favorable manner in which this work has been everywhere
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The approbation bestowed upon ihis work by the press has been universal. From
among numerous recommendaiory notices, the publishers submit a few.

One of the most valuable books of the season, and certainly one of ihe most enter-
taining works ever published in this country. Mr. Kennedy is admirably qualified
for the preparation of such a work, and has evidently had access to a great variety of
useful material. The work is one which should be in the hands of every young man
in the country. Its intrinsic interest will secure it a very general popularity. — N. Y.
Courier and Enquirer.

'I'he fascinating letters of Mr. Wirt, one of the most brilliant and agreeable men of
the day, in themselves furnish a rich fund of instruction and enjoyment.— Rich}n'/i Inq.

This work has been looked for with much inierest by the public, and will not disap-
point the high expectations justly based upon the well-known talents of the author,
and the abundant materials let't by the distingui->hed orator and jurist, to which he has
had free access. — Baltimore American.

The style is at once vigorous and fascinating, and the interest of the most absorbing
charBCier.— Philadeliihia fnquinr

Mr. Kennedy is one of the very finest of American writers. He never touches a
subject thai he does not adorn— and it is fortunate for the memory of Mr. Wirt that the
history of his life has fallen into such hands. The publishers have performed iliejr
task m excellent style. 'I he paper and the type are good, and the whole getting up is
admirable. — Rich-)noHd Whi^.

Mr. Kennedy has indeed given us tw'o delightful and instructive volumes. No
part of what he has thus lirought together could have been omitted without detriment
to the perfect picture of the great man who held for twelve years the important office
ot Attorney-General of these United States. Inwoven with the biographical anec-
dotes, letters, and speeches, are elucidatory threads that guide the reader to a better
understanding of various matters of history, and give a general and permanent value
to the work. A fine portrait is i)refixed to the first volume, and a curious fac simile of
a letter from John Adams is given in the second. — N. Y. Cmnmercial Advertiser.

Mr. Kennedy has made a couple of very interesting voluines. He has not disap-
pointed the expeciat ons of those who know his powers, and had enjoyed the spirit,
grace, and humor of his previous writings. He has properly adopted the plan of
making Mr. Wirt speak for himself, wheneverthis was possible. We have accord-
ingly, a large body of his letters, showing him in every possible attitude, during almost
every period of his life, and always m a manner lo satisty us of the equal goodness of
his heart and the clear manliness of his intellect. The lawyer, in particular will be
apt lo peruse these pages with a sensible sympathy. They illustrate the progress of
thousands, through a long and painful struggle— from poven> , tn rough adversity, and
finally, into renown and excellence. They furnish many admirable examples, as
well as interesting history.— OharUston Mercury.

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JOHNSTON'S PHYSICAIi ATLAS.

THE PHYSICAL ATLAS

OF NATURAL PHENOMENA.

FOK THE USE OF COLLEGES, ACADEMIES, AND FAMILIES.

BY ALEXANDER KEITH JOHNSTON, F.R. G.S., F. G. S.

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LIST OF PLATES.

GKOLOGY.

1. Geological Siruelure of llie Globe.

2. Mouiiuin Chains of Europe and Asia.

3. .Mouiiiain Cluinis of America

4. Illustration of the Glacier System of

the Alps. (Moat Blanc.)

5. Phenomena ol Volcanic Action.
Palffioiuologieal anil Geological Map of

the British Islands. (Frontispiece.)

HYDROGRAPHY.
1. Physical Chart of the Atlantic Ocean,
a. Physical Chan of the Indian Ocean.

3 Physical Chart of the Pacific Ocean or

Great Sea.

4 Tidal Chan of the British Peas.

5 The River Systems of Europe and

Afia.

6. The River Systems of America.

Tidal Chart of the World.

AIETEOROLOGV.

1. Humboldt's System of I^olhermal Lines.

2. Geographical Distribution of the Cur-
rents of Air.

3. Hyetographic or Rain Map of the
World.

4. Hyetographic or Rain Map of Europe.
NATURAL HISTORY.

1. Geographical Disirihuiion of Plants.

2. Geographical Distribution of the Cuiti
vaied Plants used as Food.

.3. Geographical Distribution of Quadru-
mana, Edentata, Marsupialia, and
Pachyderinala.

4. Geographical Distribution of Carnivora.

5. Geographical Distribution of Rodenlia
and Ruminantia.

6. Geographical Distribution of Birds.
7 Geographical Diplribution of Reptiles

8. Kihnographic Map o( the World.

9. Ethnographic Map of Great Britain
and Ireland.

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For the first time, in this country, the principles of graphic representation
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4 LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.

JOHNSTON'S PHYSICAL ATLAS— (Continued.)

to an extent, and with an effect, hitherto never contemplated. The contents
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The elegant substitute of linear delineation registers the most complicated
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done, and what remains to be accomplished, in perhaps the most universally
interesting and attractive branch of human knowledge.

From among a vast number of recommendatory notices, the publishers sub-
mit the following : —

We have thus rapidly run through the contents of the Atlas to show its compre-
hensiveness and philosophic arrangement. Ot' its execution, no praise would be in
excess. The maps are from the original plates, and these are beautifully finished,
and the coloring has been laid on wVih the utmost nicety and care. The size is an
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and fine taste of the American publishers will, we hope, be rewarded by an extensive
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the Physical Atlas.

In the hands of a judicious teacher, or head of a family, information of the most
varied nature in all deparlmeiils of science and natural history can be introduced and
commented on, in reference to its geographical bearing, while the materials of the
text and the Atlas may be commented on to any desired extent. Such works give
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It is the lively picture and representation of our planet. — New York Literary World,
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The book before us is, in short, a graphic encyclopasdia of the sciences— an atlas
of human knowledge done into maps. It exemplifies the truth which it expresses —
that he who runs may read. The Thermal Laws of Leslie it enunciates by a bent line
running across a map of Europe; the abstract researches of Gauss it embodies in a
k\v parallel curves winding over a section of the globe; a formula of Laplace it
melts down to a little path of mezzotint shadow ; a problem of the transcendental ana-
lysis, which covers pages with definite integrals, it makes plain to the eye by a little
stippling and hatching on a given degree "of longitude! All possible relations of
time and space, heal and cold, wet and dry. frost and snow, volcano and storm, cur-
rent and tide, plant and beast, race and religion, attraction and repulsion, glacier and
avalanche, fossil and mammoth, river and mountain, mine and forest, air and cloud,
and sea and shy — all in the earth, and under the earth, and on the earth, and above
the earth, that the heart of man has conceived or his head understood — are brought to-
gether by a marvellous microcosm, and planted on these little sheets of paper— thus
making themselves clear to every eye. In short, we have a summary of all the cross-
questions of Nature (or twenty centuries — and all the answers of Nature herself set

down and speaking to us voluminous system rfans u« wioi Mr. Johnston

is well known as a geographer of great accuracy and research; and it is certain that
this work will add to his reputation; for it is beautifully engraved, and accompanied
with explanatory and tabular letterpress of great value. — London Athenaum.

LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 6

SOMERVILLE'S PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

New Edition, much improved. Now Ready.

PHYSICAL "GEOGEAPHY.

BY MARY SOMERVILLE,

AUTHOR OF "the CONNECTION OF THE PHYSICAL SCIENCES," ETC. ETC.

SECOND AMERICAN EDITION,

Prom the Second and Revised Iiondon Edition.

WITH AMERICAN NOTES, GLOSSARY, &C.

In one neat royal 12mo. volume, extra cloth, of over 500 pages.

The great successs of this work, ami its introduction into many of the higher schools
and academies, have induced the publishers to prepare a new and much improved
editioii. In addition to the corrections and improvements of the author bestowed on
the work in its passage through the press a second time in London, notes liave been
introduced to adapt it more fully to the physical geography of this country ; and a
comprehensive glossary has been added, rendering the volume more particularly
suited to educational purposes. The amount of these additions inay be understood
from the fact, that not only has the size of the page been increased, but the volume
itself enlarged l)y over one hundred and fifty pages. At the same time, the price
has not been increased.

Whde reading this work, we could not help thinking how interesting, as well as
useful, geography as a branch of education might be made in our schools. In many of
them however, this i.« not accomplished. It is to be hoped that this defect will be
remedied ; and thai in all our educational institutions Geography will soon be taught
in the proper way. .Mrs. Somerville's work may, in this respect, be pointed to as a
model. — Tail's Edinburgh Magazine.

Our praise comes lagging in the rear, and is well-nigh superfluous. But we are
anxious to recommend to our youth the enlarged method of s'udying geography which
her present work demonstrates to be as captivating as it is instructive. Nowhere,
except in her own previous work, "The Connection of the Physical Sciences," is there
lobe found so large a store of well-selected information so lucidly set forth. In sur-
veying and grouptng together whatever has been seen by the eyesof others, or detect-
ed by their laborious investigations, she is not surpassed by any one. We have no
obscurities other than what the imperfect slate of science iiseK involves her in ; no
dissertations which are felt to interrupt or delay. She strings her beads distinct and
close together. With quiet perspicacity she seizes at once whatever is most interest-
ing and most captivating in her subject. Therefore it is we are for the book ; and we
hold such presents as Mrs. Somerville has bestowed upon the public, to be of incalcu-
lable value, disseminating more sound information than all the literary and scientific
institutions will accomplish in a whole cycle of their existence. — BlacktooodCa Mag.

HERVEY'S COURT OF GEORGE II.

MEMOIRS OF THE REIGnIf GEORGE THE SECOND,

From his Accession to the Dcatii of (liiecii Caroline.

BY JOHN LORD IIERVEY.

EDITED, FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT, AT ICKWORTH,

By the Right Hon. JOHN WILSON CROKER, LL. D., F. R. S., &c.
In two handsome volumes, royal 12mo., extra cloth.

PARDOE'S FRANCIS THE FIRST.— Now Ready.

THE COURT AND REIGnTf FRANCIS THE FIRST,

KING OF FRANCE.

BY MISS rAIlHUK,

author of " LOUIS THE FOURTEENTH," " CITY OF THE SULTAN," &C. &C.

In two very neat volumes, royal 12mo., extra cloth.

6 LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.

HERSCHEL'S OUTLINES OF ASTRONOMY.— JVotc JJ<a<ly.

OUTLINES 0P~ASTI10N0MY.

BY SIR JOHN F. W. IIERSCIIEL, F. R. S., &c.

In one neat volume, crown octavo, with six plates and numerous wood-cuts.

Wilh this, we take leave of this remarkable work, wliich we hold to be, beyond a
doul)t, the greatest and most remarkalile of the works in which the laws of astrono-
my and the appearance of the heavens are described lo lliose who are not mathema-
ticians nor observers, and recalled to lliose wlio are. It is the reward of ineii who
can descend from the advancement of knowledge lo care for its diffusion, that their
works are essential to all, that they become the manuals of the proficient as well as
the texi-books of the learner. — Athenfrum.

Probably no book ever written upon any science has been found to embrace with-
in so small a compass an entire epitome of everything known within all its various
departments, praclical, theoretical, and physical.— j;:ra»n'«er.

A text-book of astronomy, from one of the highest names in the science.— S(7Z;OTan'«
Journal.

B.^ROjyr HVJflBOtiltT^S JX'JIW tt^OaK.—JVoic Ready.

ASPECTS OF MATURE,

IN DIFFERENT LANDS AND DIFFERENT CLIMATES.
WITH SCIENTIFIC ELUCIDATIONS.

BY ALEXANDER VON HUxMBOLDT.

TRANSLATED BY MRS. SABINE.
In one very neat velum*, royal 12mo., extra cloth.

It is not without diffidence that I present to the public a series of papers which took
theirorigin in tlie prejence of natural scenes of grandeur or beauty, on the ocean, in
the forests of the Orinoco in the Steppts of Venezuela, and in the mountain wilder-
nesses of Peru and Mexico. Detached fragments were written down on the spot, and
at the moment, and al'ierwards moulded into a %vhole. The view of nature on an en-
larged scale, the display of the concurrent action of various Ibrces or powers, and the
renewal of the enjoyment which the immediate prospect of tropical scenery affords
to sensitive minds— are the objects which I have proposed lo myself.- Author's
Preface.

ZOOLOGICAL RECREATIONS.— Just Issued.

BY W. J. BRODERTP, Esq., F. R. S.

In one neat volume of 376 pages, royal 12itio., extra cloth.
BOW^JH.^JV^S PR.iCTIC.lIj CHEMISTRY".— Ju»t Isaued.

INTRODUCTION TO PRACTICAL CHEMISTRY.

INCLUDING ANALYSIS.
By JOHN E. BOWMAN,

Denionslralor of Chemistry, King's College.

In one handsome volume, royal 12mo., of over 300 pages.

WITH NEARLY ONE HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD.

STEINMETZ'S HISTORY OF THE JESUITS.
HISTORY OF THE JESUITS,

FROM THE FOUlSDATtON OF THEIR SOCIETY TO ITS SUPPRESSION BY POPE CLEMENT XIV.

Their Missions throughout the Wnrlil ; their Educationnl System and Literature;

ivith their Kevivat and Present Stale.

BY ANDREW STEINMETZ,

Autlior of "The Novitiate," and "The Jesuit in the Family."

In two handsome crown 8vo. vols, of about four hundred pages each, extra cloth.

LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 7

PAGET'S TRAVELS IN HtTNGARY-Jnst Ready.

HlJlTGARi: A:\1> ~TK AA !?iYL.\ A]\IA :

WITH REMARKS ON THEIR CONDITION, SOCIAL, POLITICAL, AND

KCONOMICAL.

BY JOHN PAGET, ESQ.

In two neat volumes, royal 12mo., extra cloth.
"AVe must now luni aside lo make a short excursion inlo Hiiiigarj'. with Mr. Paeet
for our guide. It would not he well possible to choose a better, for he never suffer*
our interest lo Hap:, and appears to have made himself accurately acquainted, not
only with the localities and traditions of ihe country, but with its whole history and
instiiutions, which presents fo many points of nnaloijy to those of Kiigland. as really
to invest the subject with a new and peculiar interest for an I'^nglishman."— Quarttr/y
Review.

B^imn'S WEST IJi^DIES.—JVow Ueadtj.

IMPRESSIONS AND EXPERIENCES
OFfTHE Wli!*!' 1M)IF.J< AM) XOU III A.>IERICA IX 1849.

BY ROBERT BAIRD, A. M.

In one neat volume, royal 12mo., e.\tra cloth.

'■■We have here ;i new instalment, iioi of Hriti'-h prejudice and ujrumhling. common
to iransatlaiitic tourists who pass a few months in the country, but a lair, judicious,
malter-of fact book by a Scottish gentleman who makes the pilgrimage ol a consider-
able poriioii 01 ihe wesiern world in pursuit o( healih, and in a frame of mind, we
may add, well adapted to its recovery. There is no illness or dyspepsia in Mr Baird'8
speculailoiis. He has a eocid legal digestion of every fact or sentiment which comes
before him.'— iV. Y Lit. YVorld.

•■ A mo*t faiihful and allractive description of the countries which the author has
visiied— formins altogether a tourist's note-book and traveler's guide of the very best
class.' —John Bull.

•■ riie narrative embraces topics of absorbing interest at the present day." — Liver-
pool Mail.

•■ .Mr Baird wields a delicate and graceful pencil, and touches lishtly and cheerily
on the salient and light reflecting poinisof the varied and magnificent scenery he
wanders over or floats amidst." — Gla^sow Citizen.

NEW AMERICAN WORK ON SHOOTING— Nearly Ready.

NOTES ON SHOOTING; OR HINTS TO SPORTSMEN.

COMPULSING

The Habits of the Game Birds and Wild Fowl of Norlli America;

The Dog, the Gun, and the Field.
BY E. J. LEWIS, M.D.,

Editor of ■■ Youatl on the Dog,' &o.
In one handsome volume, royal 12mo.

HISTORY OF THE HUGUE'MOTS— A NEW EDITION,

CO.NTINUEI) TO THE PRESENT Tl.ME.

}iY W. S. BROWNLXG.

In one large octavo volume, extra cloth.
"One of the most interesting and valuable conlribulions lo modern history."— Gen-
lleman^s Magazine.

RUSH'S

MEMORANDA OF A RESIDENCE AT THE COURT OF LONDON.

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THE BOY'S TRr.:\SURY OF SPORTS, PASTIMES, AND RECREATIONS.

WITH rOUR HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS.
In one very neat volume, royal ISmo., crimson extra cloth.

8 LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.

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TURKEY AND~1tS DESTINY;

THE RESULT OF JOURNEYS MADE IN 1P47 AND1S4S TO EXAMINE INTO
THE STATE OF THAT COUNTRY.

BY CHARLES MACFARLANE, ESQ.,

Author of "Constantinople in le2S "
In two neat volumes, royal 12mo., extra cloth.
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knowledge of the people and customs of the East, and none of more value than this.
He is a close observer, an acute thinker, and master of a pleasant, lively style. AVe
have seen no picture of Turkey, as it is, and of its future destiny, that approaches
these volumes in minuteness of detail, blended with philosophical comprehensiveness.
Every one interested in the present position and future destiny of the Turkish go-
vernment—should read Mr. Macfarlane's volumes." — N. Y. Com. Advertiser.

SIX MONTHS IN THE GOLD MINES— Now Ready.

SIX MONTHS INYhE GOLD MINES.

FROM A JOURNAL OF A THREE YEARS' RESIDENCE IN Ui'PER AND
LOWER CALIFORNIA DURING 1S47, lfc48, AND 1&49.

BY E. GOULD BUFFUM, ESQ.,

Lieut. First Regiment New York Volunteers.
In one well printed royal 12mo. vol., paper, price 50 cents, or extra cloth.
"To those who intend visiling California this book is invaluable, and the general
reader will find it, in some respects, as fascinating and interesting as a work of fic-
tion."—iV. r. Herald.

FLETCHER'S NINE-VTIH— Now Ready.

NOTES FROM NINEVEH,

And Travels in Mesopotamia, Assyria, and Syria.
BY THE REV. J. P. FLETCHER.

In one neat royal 12mo. volume, extra cloth.
"Well written, and deeply interesting." — Xortk American.

"One of the best books of travels thai we have taken up for a long time." — Boston
Evening Gazette.
"The narratives of these excursions are deeply interesting." — N.Y. Com. Advertiser.
"Full of new and stirring interest." — Saturday Post.

CARPENTER ON ALCOHOLIC LIQUORS- Just Ready.

A prize" ESSAY

ON THE USE OF ALCOHOLIC LiaUORS IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

BY W. B. CARPENTER, M.D., F.R.S.,

Author of ''Principles of Human Physiology," &c.
In one neat volume, royal 12mo.
A prize of one hundred guineas having been ollered in London for the best essay
on the above subject, that sum has been awarded to Dr. Carpenter for the present
work by the adjudicators. Dr. John Forbes. Dr. G. L. Roupell, and Dr. W. A.Guy.
A treatise on a subject of such universal interest by so distinguished a physiologist
and teacher as Dr. Carpenter cannot fail to attract general attention, and be product-
ive of much benefit.

WALPOLE'S LETTERS.

In six handsome octavo volumes, extra cloth.

Four volumes containing the General Correspondence, and two the

Suppressed Letters to Sir Horace Mann.

WALPOLE'S MEMOIRS OF THE REIGN OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD.

In two handsome octavo volumes.

LEA & BLA^JCHAKD'S NKVV PLBLICATIONS. 9

Now Complete.— STRICKLAND'S QUEENS OF ENGLAND.
NEW AND IMPROVED EDITION.

LIVES OF THE @UEENS OF ENGLAND,

FROM THE NORMAN CONQUEST.
WITH ANECDOTES OF THEIR COURTS,

Now First Published from Official Records, and other Authentic Documents, Pri-
vate as well as Public.

NEW EDITION, %VITH ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS.

BY AGNES STRICKLAND.

In six volumes crown octavo, extra crimson cloth, or half morocco, printed
on fine paper and large type.
In this edition, Volume One contains Vols. 1, 2 and 3 of the 12mo. edition
Volume Two contains Vols. 4 and 5; Volume Three contains Vols. 6 and 7
Volume Four contains Vols. 8 and 9 ; Volume Five contains Vols. 10 and 11
and Volume Six contains Vol. 12. The whole forming a very handsome se-
ries, suitable for presents, prizes, &c.

Tlie puljlisliers have great pleasure in presenting to the public this work in a
complete Ibrm. During the long period m whieli it has lieen issuing from the press,
it has assumed the character ol"a standard work ; and. as occupying ground hitherto
untouched, as embodying numerous historical facts hilheno unnoticed, and as con-
taining vivid sketches of the character and manners of the times, with anecdotes,
documents, &c. &c., it presents numerous claims on the nltenlion of both the student
of history and desultory reader.

Those who have been waiting its completion can now obtain it, forming a handsome
set, twelve volumes in six, in various styles of binding.

A few copies still on hand of the Duodecimo Edition. Vol. I. — Contains
Matilda of Flanders, Matilda of Scotland, Adelicia of Louvaine, Matilda of
Boulogne, and Eleanor of A(]uitaine. Vol. II. — Berengaria of Navarre, Isa-
bella of Angoiileme, Eleanor of Provence, Eleanor of Castile, Marguerite of
France, Isabella of France, Philippa of Hainault, and Anne of Bohemia.
Vol. III. — Isabella of Valois, Joanna of Navarre, Katharine of Valois, Marga-
ret of Anjou, Elizabeth Woodville, and Ann of Warwick. Vol. IV. — Elizabeth
ofYorU, Katharine of Arragon, .\nne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves,
and Katharine Howard. Vol. V. — Katharine Parr and Queen Mary. Vol. VI.
— Queen Elizabeth. Vol. VII. — Queen Elizabeth (continued), and Anne of
Denmark. Vol. VIII. — Henrietta Maria and Catharine of Braganza. Vol. IX.
— Mary of Modena. Vol. X. — Mary of Modena (continued), and Mary II.
Vol. XI. — Mary II. (continued), and Queen Anno. Vol. XII. — Queen Anne
(concluded).

Any volume sold separately, or the whole to match in neat green cloth.

These volumes have the fascination of a romance united to the integrity of history. —
Times.

A most valuable and entertaining work. — Chronicle.

This interesting and well-wriiien work, in which the severe truth of history lakes
almost llie wildness of romance, will constitute a valuable addition to our biogra-
phical liieraiure. — Morning Htrabl.

A valuable contribution to hisiorical knowledge, to young persons especially. It
contains a mass of every kind of historical matter of interest, which industry and re
source could collect. We have derived much entertainment and instruction from
the work. — Athetirr.um

The execution of this work is equal to the conception. Great pains have been
taken lo make it both inlere^ling and valuable. — Lit- ran/ Gazelle.

A cliarmiiig work— full of interest, at once st-rious ami pleasing — Monsieur Giiizot.

A most charming biographical memoir. We conclude by expressing our uiuiuali-
ficd opinion, that we know of no more valuable coniribulion lo modern tiisiory than
this ninth volume of .Miss Strickland's Lives of the Queens. —Morning Herald.

*2

10 LEA & BLANCHARD-S NEW PUBLICATIONS.

NEW WORK BY MISS KAVANAGH— Now Ready.

WOMAN IN FRANCS

IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.

BY JULIA KAVANAGH,

Author of " Madeleine, a Tale of Auvergne."

In one neat vol., royal 12mo , extra cloth.

In treating other sulijeels of her gallery — as for instance those widely different per-
sonages, IVIcllle. Aiss6 and Madame Roland— Miss Kavanagh puts forth a pathelic
power which gives depth and repose to a book that in other hands might have become
wearying from its unmitigated sparkle.

The critic dealing with such an encyclopedia of coquetries, amours, vicissitudes,
sflffV rings, and repentances as the history of" Woman in France" must necessarily
be, is fain to content himself with offering merely a general character like the above.
Such is the fascination of the subject — such is the fullness of maiter— such is iis afflu-
ence of sugseslion— that every page tempts him to stop for a gossip or for speculation
of modes and morals.

Which among us will ever be tired of reading about the Women of France ? espe-
cially when they are marshaled so agreeably and discreetly as in the pages before
us. — 37ie Athenauni.

ERMAN'S SIBERIA.— Now Ready.

TRAVELsTn SIBERIA.

INCLUDING EXOURSIONS NORTHWARD,

Down the Obi to the Polar Circle, and Southward to the Chinese Frontier.

BY ADOLPH ERMAN.
Translated frovi the German, by WILLIAM DESBOROUGH COOLEY.

In two large vols., royal 12mo., extra cloth.
Much interest attaches to this work as the only complete and authentic account
w-hich we possess of the vast territories extending from the Ural Mountains !o Beh-
ring's Straits, of which less is known, than perhaps of any other densely inhabited
portion of the globe. Dr. Erman devoted several years to these researches, and has
embodied in these volumes a large amount of curious and novel information.

Lately Issued — INGERSOLL'S NEW WORK.

HISTORICAI. SKETCH OF THE SECO^O TTAR

BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AND GREAT BRITAIN.

DECLARED BY ACT OF CONGRESS THE 18th OF .lUNE, 1SI2. AND CON-
CLUDED BY PEACE THE 15lh OF FEBRUARY, ISio.

BY CHARLES J. INGERSOLL.

EMBRACING THE EVENTS OF 1814.

In one well-printed Svo. vol., of 318 pages, double columns, paper covers.
FRANCE UNDER LOUIS PHILIPPE.

The History of Ten Years, 1830-1840; or, France nnder Lonis Philippe.

BY LOUIS BLANC,

Secretary of the Provisional Government of 1S4S.

TRANSLATED BY WALTER K. KELLY.

In two handsome crown Svo. volumes, extra cloth, or six parts, paper, at fifty cents.

HISTORY OF THE FRENCH RimUTION OF 1789.

BY LOUIS BLANC,
Author of " France under Lonis Philippe," &c

THAN'- .i"ED FROM THE FRENCH,
one volume, crown octavo.

LEA" & BLANCH ARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 11

THE "WAR IN HUNGARY. Now Ready.

MEMOIRS OF AN~HUNGARIAN LADY.

BY THERESA rULSZKY.
WITH AN HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION

BY FRANCIS PULSZKY.

In one neat volume, royal 13mo., extra cloth.
We need hardly inform our readers that the authoress of this work is the accom-
plished wife of the gentleman who was originally accredited to the Enalish Cabinet
by the Provisional Government of Hungary. The private Interest attaching to the
recital of events which have become so famous, would ensure a wide popularity for
Madame Pulszky's book. But we should very ninch underestimate its value if we so
limned our praise. The Memoirs, indeed, contain sketches of social life which are
worthy of a place by the side of Madame de Slahl de Launay and Madame Campan.
But lliey are also rich in political and topographical information of the first character.
Madame Pulszky was in the habit of direct intercourse with the foremost and most
distinguished of the Hungarian generals and statesmen, and has given a complete
summary of the political events in Hungary, from the arrival of the Hungarian Depu-
tation in 1S4>?, to the treason of General Georgy on the 13lh of August, 1S49 M. Puls-
zky has also prefixed a valuable introduction, which gives the most complete History
of Hungary that has ever issued from the English press. — Globe.

TAL.es AflfD STORIES FROM HISTORY.

BY AGNES STRICKLAND,

Author of " Lives of the Queens of England." etc.
In one handsome royal 18mo. volume, crimson extra cloth, vi-iih illustrations.

THE SFGAR PLANTER'S MAIMTAE.

BEING A TREATISE ON THE ART OF OBTAINING SUGAR FROM THE CANE.

BY W. J. EVANS, M. D.
In one neat volume, small Svo., 2CS pages, with wood-cuts and two plates,

THEORY OF LIFE.

BY S. T. COLERIDGE. In one sinal) volume, 12mo.

POEMS,

BY ELLIS, CURRER, AND ACTON BELL,

Authors of "Jane Eyre." &c.

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EASTER]\ LIFE, PRESENT AXD PAST.

BY HARRIET MARTINEAU.
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HOUi^EHOT^D EDIJCATIOIV.

BY HARRIET MARTINEAU.

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laiRABEAIJ, A Life History.

In one neat volume, royal I'Jrno.

A TREATISE ON ASTRONOI^ V.

CY SIR JOHN F, W. HEPvSCIlEI.. F. R. S., &c.

WITH NUMEROUS IT.ATES AND WOOD-CUTS.

A NEW EDITION, WITH A PREFACE AND A SERIES OF QUESTIONS,

BY S. O. WALKER.

In one volume. l'.iino

12 LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.

MAGNIFICENT PRESENTATION WORK.

IRISH MELODIES.

BY THOMAS MOORE, Esq.

WITH NOTES AND BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACES.

IliLUSTRATED "WITH BEAUTIFUL STEEL. PliATES,

ENGRAVED UNDER THE IMMEDIATE SUPERINTENDENCE OF MR. EDWARD FINDEN.

In one large imperial quarto volume of 174 pages, handsomely bound in extra
cloth, with gilt edges. Beautifully printed on superior paper.

LIST OF PLATKS.
Nora Cretna, ... - Painted by VV. P. Frith, Engr'd by E. Finden.
Rich AND Rare WERE THE Gems SHE Wore, '' W.Fisher, " W H. Mote.

EvEi.EEN, " R. T. Bott, " E. Finden.

Love's Young Dream, - - - - " A.Derby, " E. Finden.

Lesbia, " W. P. Frith, " W. Holl.

Kathleen and St. Kevin, - - - " E. Hawkes, " W. Holl.

The Hamlet's Pride, - - - - " W. Room, " W.Edwards.

Laughing Eyes. " W. P. Frith, " E. Finden.

The Mountain Sprite, ... " F. Wood, " E. Finden.

The Desmond's Love, - - - . " F. Crowley, " W. Edwards.

The care which has been exercised in every portion of this volume, both as to its
mechanical and anistical execuiion, renders it in all respects well worthy of the
"Irish Melodies." In illustrations, type, printing, paper, and binding, it is equal to
anything that has as yet appeared in this country ; and, as a work whose attraction is
not confined to a single season, it should command the attention of the public.

Now Ready.— MACKAY'S TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES.

THE WESTERjV l¥OR"iLD;

OR, TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES.

EXHIBITING THEM IN THEIR LATEST DEVELOPMENT, SOCIAL, POLITICAL,
AND INDUSTRIAL.

INCLUDING A CHAPTER ON CALIFORNIA.
BY ALEXANDER MACKAY, Esq.

FROM THE SECOND AND ENLARGED LONDON EDITION.

In two very neat vols., royal 12mo.
READINGS FOR THE YOUNG.

FROM THE WORKS OF SIR WALTER SCOTT.

WITH NUMEROUS AND BEAUTIFUL PLATES.

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DOMBEY AND SON, COMPLETE.

BY CHARLES DICKENS.
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PUBr,ISHL\G IN NU.MBERS, WITH PLATES, PRICE 5 CKNTS EACH.
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ALSO,

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TO BE COMPLETE IN TWO PARTS.

Price 25 Cents each.

LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 13

LIBRARY OF ILLUSTRATED SCIENTIFIC WORKS.

UNDKR THIS TITLE LI'.A & HLANCHARD ARE PUBLISHING

A SERIES OF BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED AYORKS,

ON VARIOUS BRANCHES OF SCIENCE,

By the most distinguished men in their respective departments.

Printed in the handsomest style, and embellished in tlie most efficient manner.

ICT" No expense has been or will be spared to render this series worthy of the sup-
port of the scientific public, and at the same lime one of tlie handsomest specimens of
typographical and artistic execution which lias appeared in tins country.

Spechnens of the Engravings and style of Uievohime^ may be hail on application lo the

publishers.

MULLER'S PHYSIOS— LATELY ISSUED.

P R I N Cl P L E S

OF

PHYSICS AND METEOROLOGY.

BY PROFESSOR J. MULLER, M. D.

EDITED, WITH ADDITIONS, BY R. EGLESFELD GRIFFITH, M. D.

In one large and handsome octavo volume, with 550 wood-cuts, and two
colored plates.

This is a large, elegant, and most admirable volume— thefirst of a series of scien-
tific books now passing throuph the press in London, and which cannot fail to com-
mend themselves to the favor of all who lake any interest in the prO!<ress of science
among the great mass of the people. The author is one of the most distinguished
scientific men in Germany, and these works liave been prepared with the utmost
care, and are put forth in a form admirably adapted to secure that wide circulation
and universal favor which Ihey deserve. — iV. Y. Courier and Inquirer.

NOW READY.

PRACTICAL~PHARMACY.

COMPRISING THE ARRANGEMENTS. APPARATUS, AND MANIPULA-
TIONS OF THE PHARMACF.UTICAL SHOP AND LaBOR.\TORV.

BY FRANCIS MOHR, Ph. D.,

Assessor Pharmacia; of the Royal Prussian College of Medicine, Coblentz;

AND THEOPHILUS REDWOOD,

Professor of Pharmacy in the Pharmaceutical Society of Great Britain.

EDITED, WITH EXTENSIVE ADDITIONS,

BY PROFESSOR WILLIAM PROCTER,

Of the Philadelphia College of Pharmacy.

In one handsomely printed octavo volume, of 570 pages, with over 500 en-
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M» JPreparation, tnorhs on Jtlttallurg-tf, J'ood, the Steam MSng-ine,
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14 LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS.

Jjihrary of Illustrated Scientific Works. — Continued.

KNAPP'S CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY.

T E C H Nl) L 0 G Y;

OR, CKEMISTRY APPLIED TO THE ARTS AND TO MANUFACTURES
BY DR. F. KNAPP,

Professor at the University of Giessen.

Edited, with nitmerous Notes and Additions, by

DR. EDMUND RONALDS, and DR. THOMAS RICHARDSON.

First American Edition, with Notes and Additions,

BY PROFESSOR WALTER R, JOHNSON.

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One of the best works of modern times. — New York Commercial.

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WEISBACH'S MECHANICS.

PRINCIPLES OF "the MECHANICS
OF MACHINERY AND ENGINEERING.

By PRorEssoR JULIUS WEISBACH.

TRANSLATED AND EDITED

BY PROFESSOR GORDON, OF GLASGOW.

First American Edition, ■with Additions,

By Prof. WALTER R. JOHNSON.

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Volume One, with five hundred and fifty illustrations, just issued.
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The most valuable contribution to practical science that has yet appeared in this
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Ill every way worthy of being recommended to our readers —Franklin Institute
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From Charles H. Haswell, Esq., Engineer in Chief. U. S. N.
The design of the author in supplying the instructor with a guide for teaching, and
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It will aiford me much pleasure to recommend its use by the members of the pro-
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1« LEA & BLANCHARD-S NEW PUBLICATIONS.

Schititts and XutnpVa Classical Series.— Continued.

From Prof. Roche, Transylvania University, Lexington. Ky., March 31, 1849.
Whatever influence my po^ilioii may give me shall be most cheerfully employed in
bringing iiuo general use In ihe Wesl these very valualile works. I trust that you
will prosecute to a close the proposed series, and that the execution ot" those thai re-
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From Prof. John Wilson, Prep. Dep. Dickinson College, Carli.tle, Dec. 8. 1S4S.
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From Peof. E. E. Wilet, Emory and Henry College, Va. Nov. 30, 1849.
From the cursory examination given them, I must say that I have beeit highly srrati-
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by the costly dresses in which they have appeared, and by the extensive di.«play of
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elucidating the text. It will afford me pleasure to introduce into my department such
books of your series as may be in our course.

From S. H. Taylor, Esq., Andover, Mass., Oct 30, 1848.
The notes seern to me very accurate, and are not so numerous as to do for the stu-
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From. Prof. M. M. Campbell, Principal of the Grammar School. Indiana University,
Nov. 6, 1>43.
I like the plan of your series. I feel sure it will succeed, and thus displace some of
the learned lumber of our schools. The notes, short, plain, and apposite, are placed
where they ought to be, and furnish the learner just about help enough.

From Philip Lindslet, D. D., Pres. of the University of Nashville, Nov. 27, 1848.
The classical series, edited by Drs. Sclimitz and Zumpt. has already acquired a
high and well-merited repulation on both sides of the Atlantic. I have carefully ex-
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schools, and preferable to all others. I shall avail myself of every suitable occasion
to recommend them.

From B. Sanford, Esq., Bridgewnter. Mass., Jan. 17, 1849.
I have examined, with considerable care, boih the Cfesar and the Virgil, and am
much pleased with the plan and execution of the series thus lar. I am particularly
gratified with the propriety and judgment displayed by the editors in the preparation
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body of annotations better suited to aid the teacher in imparting a knowledge of the
language, than is to be found in any edition heretofore in use. ,

From Prof. Sturgess, Hanover College, Indiana, Dec. 30, 184S.
The mere name of the eilitors is a sufficient and most ample guarantee of the accu-
racy of the text, the judicious choice of various readings, and ihe conformity of those
adopted to the latest investigations of MSS., and the results of the most enlighiened
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They are admirable, extremely condensed, and conveying a great deal of most valu-
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fEslheli"al remarks, and the frequent references to parallel passages in Ihe same au-
thor. The preliminary life is excellent, and of great value to the student. The S il-
lusi appears lo be of the same general character, and the noles to lurnish just such
help as the diligent student really needs. I think that in bringing out such a course
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on your press, already so distinguished tor the value of its issues.

LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS, 17

SHAW'S ENGLISH LITERATURE.

OUTLINES OP ENGLISH LITEUATUllE.

BY THOMAS B. SHAAV,

Professor of English Literature in the Imperial Alexander Lyceum of Su Petersburg.
In one large and handsome royal 12mo. volume.

A valuable and very interesting volume, which for various merits will gradually
find its way into all libraries.— jY. Y. Knicktrborker.

Supplies a want long and severely fe\l.— Southern Literary Ciazette.

Traces our literary history with remarkable zest, fairness, and intelligence. — N. Y.
Home Jo'trtinl.

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From the Rev. W. G. T. Sheiid, Professor of English Literature in the University of Vt.

BuRUSGTON, May IS, 1&49.

I take great pleasure in saying that it supplies a want tliat has long existed of a
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FOSTER'S EUROPEAN LITERATURE.— Now Ready,

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ATLAS TO DANA ON CORALS.

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COMMERCE, POLITICAL INSTITUTIONS, AND CIVIL

AND SOCUL STATE OF ALL NATIONS.

BY HUGH MURRAY, F.R.S.E., &c.

Assisted in Botany, by Professor HOOKER— Zoology, ic, by W. W. SWAIN SON— Astronomy, Sue.

by Professor WALLACE— Geology, &c., by Professor JAMESON.

REVISED, WITH ADDITIONS,

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THE WHOLE BROUGHT UP, BY A SUPPLEMENT, TO 1843.
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PROFESSOR RANKE'S HISTORICAL WORKS.

HISTOR'H' OF THE POPES,

THEIR CHURCH .V.M) ST.\TF:, IN THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEE.N'TH CENTURIES.
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TRANSLATKD HIOM THK L.tST EDITION OF THE UUR.M.v.V, BY WALTER K. KKLLY, ESQ., B. A.

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clear to perceive the Protestant tendency of the history." — London Times.

THE TURKISH AXrH SFAXTISH EMPIRES,

IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY AND BEGINNING OF THE SEVENTEENTH,
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TttANSLATED FROM THE UlST EDITION OF THE GERMAN, DV WALTl-31 K. KELLY, ESQ.

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HISTOR7 OF THE REFORIVE.A.TION' IN GER]XI.A.Xnr,

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TRANSLATED FROM THE SECOND EDITION, BY SARAH AUSTIN.

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CONTAINING THE CAUSES. SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT OF ALL

DISEASES INCIDENT TO OXEN, SHEEP AND SWINE;

AND A SKETCU OF THE

ANATO.IIY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF NEAT CATTLE.

BY FRANCIS CLATER.

EDITED, REVISED AND ALMOST RE-WRITTEN, BT

WILLIAM YOUATT, AUTHOR OF "THE HORSE."
WITH NUMEROVS ADDITIONS,
EMBRACING AN ESSAY ON THE USE OF OXEN AXD THE IMPROVEMENT IN THK
BREED OF SHEEP,
B7 J. S. SKINNER.
WITH NCMEROCS CUTS AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
In one 12nio. volume, cloth.
" As its title would import, it is a most valuable work, and should be in the hands of every Ame-
rican farmer; and we feel proud in saj-ine, that the value of the work has been greatly enhanced
oy the contributions of Mr. Skinner. Clater and Youalt are names treasured by the farming com-
munilies of Europe as household-gods ; nor does that of Skinner deserve to be less esteemed in
America." — American Farmer.

CLATER'S FARRIER.

EVERY MAN HIS OWN FARRIER:

CONTAINING THE CAUSES, SY.MPTOM.S, AND MOST APPROVED METHODS OF CURB
OF THE niSEASKS OF HORSES.

BIT TKANOZS CZiATER,

Author of " Ever)- .Man his own Cattle Doctor,"

AND HIS SON, JOHN CLATER.

FIRST AMERICAN FROM THE TWKNTY-EIGHTH LONDON EDITION.
WITH NOTES AND ADnlTIOSg,

B T J. S. SKIITZTBR.

Jn one I'Jino. voluini', clotU.

LEA AND BLANCIIARD'S PUBLICATIONS.

YOUATT AND SKINNER'S

STAf^OARD WORK ON THE HORSE.

THE HORSE.

BY WILLIAM YOUATT.

A NEW EDITION, WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.
TOGETHER WITH A.

G-ENZinAI. H2STORY OP THE HOHSE;

A DISSERTATION ON

THE AMERICAN TROTTING HORSE;

HOW TRAINED AND JOCKEYED.

AN ACCOUNT OF HIS REMARKABLE PERFORMANCES;

AND

AN ESSiVV OIT THE ASS .A.I^'D THE MULE,

BY J. S. SKINNER.

Assistant Post-Master-General, and Editor of the Turf Register.

This edition of Youatt's well-known and standard work on the Manage-
ment, Diseases, and Treatment of the Horse, has already obtained such a
wide circulation throughout the country, that the Publishers need say no-
thing to attract to it the attention and confidence of all who keep Horses or
are interested in their improvement.

" In introducins this very neat edition of Youatt's well-known book, on ' The Horse,' to our
readers, it is not necessary, even if we had time, to say anythins to convmne them of its worth ; it
has been highly spoken of, by those most capable of appreciating its nients, and its appearance
under the patronage of the 'Society for the DilTusion of Useful Knowledge,' with Lord Brougham
at its head, affords a full guaranty for its high ch.aracter. The book is a very valuable one, and we
endorse the recommendation of tlie editor, that every man who owns the ' hair of a horse,' should
have it at his elbow, to be consulted like a family physician, ' for mitigating the disorders, and pro-
longing the life of the most interesting and useful of all domestic animals.' " — Fanner's Cabinet.

" This celebrated work has been completely revised, and much of it almost entirely re-written
by its able author, who, from being a practical veterinary surgeon, and withal a great lover and
excellent judge of the animal, is particularly well qualified to write the history of the noblest of
quadrupeds. Messrs. Lea and Blanchard of Philadelpliia have repnWished the above work, omitting
a few of the first pages, and have supplied their place with matter quite as valuable, and perhaps
more interesting to the reader in this country ; it being nearly 100 page.i of a general history of t'ne
horse, a dissertation on the American trotting horse, how trained and jockeyed, an account of his
remarkable performances, and an essay on the Ass and Mule, by J. S. Skinner, Esq., Assistant Post-
-na-ster-General, and late editor of the Turf Register and American Fanner. Mr. Skinner is one
of our most pleasing writers, and has been fiimiljar with the subiect of the horse from childhood,
and we need not add that he has ac(iuittcd himself well of the task. He also takes up the import-
ant subject, to the American breeder, of the Ass. and tlie Mule. This he tn-ats at length and con
amnre. The Philadelphia edition of the Horse isa handsome octavo, wilh niHiieni"S wood-cut.s."—
Amiriran Aiiriadhinst.

LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS.

HAWKER AND PORTER ON SHOOTING.

INSTRUCTIONS TO YOUNG SPORTSMEN

IN ALL THAT RELATES TO GUNS AND SHOOTING.
BY LIEtJT. OOL. P. HA-WKER.

FROM THE F.NLAROED AND IMrROVF.D NINTH LONDON EDITION,

TO WHICH IS ADDED THE HUNTING AND SHOOTING OF NORTH AMERICA, WITH

DESCRIPTIONS OF ANIMALS AND BIRDS, CAREFULLY COLLATED

FROM AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

BY W. T. PORTER, E S a*

EDITOR OF THE N. Y. SPIRIT OF THE TIMES.

In one large octavo volume, rich extra cloth, with nuincroiis Illiisfrationg.

" Here is a bonk, a hnnil-hnok, or ralher a text-liook — one that C(>ntain.s the whole routine of the
8cienr«. It is the Pnnier, tlic I.exiron, and the Homer. Everytlim? is here, from the minutest
portion of a Run-lock, to a tlend Buffalo. The sportsman who reads lliis book understandinRly, may
pass an examination. He will know the sricnce, and may ewe advice to others. Every sportsman,
and sportsmen are plentiful, should own this work. U should be a " vade mecuni." He slioukl
be examined on its contents, and estimated by bis abilities to answer. We have not been without
treatises on the art, but hitherto they have not descended into all the minutiie of equipments and
qiialiticatiiins to proceed to the completion. This work supplies deficiencies, and completes the
sportsman's library." — U. S. Gazelle.

" No man in the country that we wot of is so well calculated as our friend of the ' Spirit' for the
task he has undertaken, and the result of his laboura liius been that he has turned out a work which
should be in the hands of every man in the huid who owns a double-barrelled gun."— N. O. Picayune.

" A volume snlendidly printed and bound, and embellished vrHh numerous beautiful engravings,
which will doubtless be in KTi'at demand. No sportsman, indeed, oui;lit to be withmit it, while the
general reader will find iu its pages a fund of curious and useful infurniation." — Richmond Whig.

^y^irATT~oir"TMriE"^DO^

THE DOG,

BY WILLIAM YOUATT,

Author of " The Horse," &c.

WITH NUMEROUS AND BEAUTIFUL ILLUSTRATIONS.

EDITED BY E. J. LEWIS, M. D. &c. &c.

In one beautifully printed volume, crown octavo.

LIST OF PLATES.

Head of Bloodhound— Ancient Greyhounds- The Thibet Dos— The Dineo, or New Holland Do?—

The Danish or Dalmatian Dog- The Hare Indian Dog — The Grevhound— The Grecian Greyhound

— Blenheims and Cockers — The Wafer Spaniel — The Poodle — The Alpine Spaniel or Bernardme

Dog — The Newfoundland Dog— The Esquimaux Dog— The English Sheep Dog— The Scotch Sheep

Dog — The Beagle— The Harrier— The Foxhound— Plan of Goodwood Kennel — The Southern

Hound— The Setter— The Pointer— The Bull Dog— The Jlastilf— The Terrier— Skeleton of the

Dog — Teeth of the Dog at seven different ages.

" Mr. Youatt's work is invaluable to the student of canine history; it is full of entertaining anJ
instructive matter for the general reader. To the sportsman it coininends itself by the large amount
of useful information in reference to his pecuhar pursuits wliich it embodies — information which
he cannot find elsewliere in so convenient and accessible a form, and with so reUable an authority
to entitle it to his consideration. The modest preface which Dr. Lewis has made to the American
edition of this work scarcely does justice to the additional value he has imparted to it; and the
publishers are entitled to great credit for the handsome manner in wluch tliey have got it up." —
riorlh American.

THE SFORTSlMi^ZT'S I.IBR.A.RV,

OR HINTS ON HUNTERS, HUNTING, HOUNDS, SHOOTING, GAME, DOGS, GUNS,

FISHING, COURSING, ic, &c.

BY JOHN MILLS, ESQ.,

Author of " The Old English Gentleman," ic.

In one well printed royal duodecimo volume, e.\tra cloth.

STi).BZ<Z: TAXiK AlTD TABIjZ: T.A.I.K,

OR SPECTACLES FOR YOUNG SPORTS.MEN.

BY HARRY HIEOVER.

In one very neat duodecimo volume, extra cloth.

"These lively sketches answer to their title very well. Wherever Nimrod is welcome, there

should be cordial greeting for Harry Hieover. His liook is a very clever one, and contains many

instructive hints, as well as much hght-hearted reading."— £xami>KT.

THE DOG .A-ISTD THE SFORTSIO; AIT,

EMBUACI.Nf; THE USES, liRKEDlNG. TRAINING, DISEASES, ETC., OF DOGS, AND AN

ACinUNT OF THE IHKFEUENT KINDS oK G.VME. WITH THEIR llAlilTS.

Also, Hints to SliooterSf with various useful Rcciiics, &c«j Ac<

BY J. S. SKIN NCR.

Wilh Plates In one very neat 12nin roliime. 'rtra rluth.

LEA AND BLANCIIARD'S PUBLICATIONS.

FRANCATELLI'S MODERN FRENCH COOKERY.

THE MODERN COOK,

A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE CULINARY ART, IN ALL ITS BRANCHE^S, ADAPTED AS

WELL FOR -THE LARGEST ESTABLfSHMENTS AS FOR THE USE

OF PRIVATE FAMILIES.

BY CHARLES ELME FRANCATELLI,

Pupil of tlie celebrated Careme, and late Maitre D'Hotel and Chief Cook to her Majesty the Queen.
In one large octavo volume, extra cloth, with numerous illustratioiis.
" It appears to he the book of books on cookery, hem? a most comprehensive treatise on that art
preservative and cousen-ative. The work comprises, in one lai;;e and elegant octavo volume, 1+47
recipes for cooking dishes and desserts, with numerous dlustrations ; also bills of fare and direc-
tions for dinners for every month in the year, fur companies of si.\ persons to twenty-eight. — Nat.
Intelligencer.

" The ladies who read our Magazine, will thank us for Calling attention to this great work on the
noble science of cooking, in whicli everybody, who has any taste, feels a deep and abiding mlerest.
Francatelli is the Plato, the Sliakspeare, or the Napoleon of his departnienl; or perhaps the La
Place, for his performance bears the same relaiion to ordinary cook hooks that the Mecanique
Celeste does to DaboU's Anthmetio. It is a large octavo, pidl'usely illustrated, and contains every-
tlimg on the pliilosophy of making dinners, suppers, etc., that is worth knowing.— Gro/iam's Magazine.

MISS ACTON'S CoTkTryT

MODERS? COOKER'S- IN ,A.IjIi ITS BRilKCHIIS,

REDUCED TO A SYSTEM OF EASY PRACTICE. FOR THE USE OF PRIVATE FAMILIES.

IN A SERIES OF PRACTICAL RECEIPTS, ALL OK WHICH ARE GIVEN

WITH THE MOST MINUTE EX.VCTNESS.

BY ELIZA ACTON.

WITH NUMEROUS WOOD-CUT ILLUSTRATIONS.
TO WHICH IS ADDED, A TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

THE WHOLE REVISED AND PREPARED FOR AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPERS.

BY MRS. SARAH J. HALE.
From the Second London Edition. In one large I2mo. volume.
"Miss Ehza Acton may congratulate herself on having composed a work of great utility, and one
that is speedily finding its way to every 'dresser' in the kinsdom. Her Cookery-book is unques-
tionably the most valuable compendium of the art that has yet been published. It strongly incul-
cates economical principles, and points out how good tlungs may be concocted without that reck-
less extravagance which good cooks have been wont to miagine the best evidence tliey caji give of
skill in their profession." — London Morning Post.

PLAIN AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING AND HOUSEKEEPING.

■WITH UPTWARDS OP SEVEN HUNDRED RECEIPTS,

Consisting of DiiecUoiis for the Choice of Meat and Poultry, Prejiarations for Cooking; Maldng of

Broths and Souiis ; Boiling, Roasting, Baking and Frying of .Meats, Fish, &c. ; Seasonings,

Colorings, Cooking Vegetables; Pi eparin? Salads ; Clarifying; Making of Pastry,

Puddings, Gruels, Gravies, Garnishes, Aic, <tc., and with general

Directions for making Wines.

WITH ADDITIONS AND ALTERATIONS.

BY J. M. SANDERSON,

OF THE FRANKLIN HOUSE.

In one small volume, paper. Price only Twenty-five Cents.

THE COMPLETE Col^TMoNERTlPA^rF^OirAND BAKER.

PLAIN AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS

FOR MAKING CONFECTIONARY AND PASTRY, AND FOR RAKING.

■WITH UP"WARDS OF FIVE HUNDRED RECEIPTS,

Consisting of Directions for making all sorts of Preserves, Sug;ir Boiling, Comfits, Lozenges,

Ornamental Cakes, Ices. Liqueurs, Waters, Gum Paste Ornaments, Svrups, Jellies,

Marmalades, Compotes, Breail Baking, Artificial Yeasts, Fancy

Biscuits, Cakes, Rolls, Muffins, Tarts, Pies, ic, iic.

WITH ADDITIONS AND ALTERATIONS.

BY PARKINSON,

PRACTICAL CONFECTIONER, CHESTNUT STREET.

In one small volume, paper. Price only Twenty-five Cents

LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS.

JOHNSON AND LANDRETH ON FRUIT, KITCHEN,
AND FLOWER GARDENING.

A DICTIONARY OF MODERN GARDENING,

BY GEORGE WILLIAM JOHNSON, ESQ.

Author of llio " Principles of Practioal Gardening," " The Gardener's Almanac," ic.

WITU ONE HONORED AND EIGHTY WOOD-CCTS.

EDITED, WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONS, BY DAVID LANT>RETH, OF PHIUVDEI.PHIA.

In one large royal duodecmio volume, extra cloth, of nearly Sii Hundred and Fifty
double columned Pages.

This edition has been greatly altered from the onginal. Many articles of little interest to Ameri-
cans h.-ive been curuiiled or wholly omitted, and much m:\\ mailer, with numerous illuslniliiins,
added especially wilh respect to the variutirs of fruit wluilj .■.v|K-iifiic.> has shown to be pecuharly
adapted to our climate. Still, the eilitnr admits that he has only fullcwed in the path so admirably
nrirkcd out by Mr J..lms.)ii, to whorn llie rliicf iiirrit of llie wuik bilungs. It lias been an object
with the editor aiul [lublislicis to iiic-rcase its popular oharacler, tberrby adapting it to the larger
class of iiortirulninil nailers in this ruuiitry. and they trust it will prove what they have desired It
to be ail t;ncyrloi);i'dia of tlardeiimg, if not of Rural Alfairs, so condensed and ut such a price as to
be wilhin reach of nearly all whom those subjects interest.

" This is a useful compendium of all that description of information which is valuable to the
modem gardener. It quotes largely from the best standard authors, journals, and tran.saclions of
societies- and the labours of the American editor have fitted it for the United States, by judicious
additions and omissions. The volume is abundantly illustrated with hgures in the text, cmbraiaiig
a judicious selection of those varieties of fruits which experience has shown to be well suited to the
United Slates.— SilliTnan's Journal.

" This is the most val liable work we have ever seen on the subject of gardening ; and no man of
taste who can devote even a quarter of an acre to horticulture ought to be without it. Indeed la-
dies who merely cultivate flowers mthin-doors, will find this book an excellent and conveuient
counsellor It contains one hundred and eighty wood-cut lUustrations, which give a distinct idea
of the fruits and garden-arrangements they are intended to represent. .

" Johnson's Dictionan' of Gardening, edited by Landreth, is handsomely pnnted. well-bound, ami
gold at a price wluch puts it witliin the reach of all who would be hkcly to buy it."— Evergreen.

THE COMPLETE FLORIST.

A KlANTJI^Jj OF GARlJENIWa,

CONTAINING PRACTICAL INSTRUCTION FOR THE MANA.JEMENT OF GREENIIOUSE

PLANTS, AND FOR THE CULTIVATION OF THE SllKUliliEKY-1 HE t LOWER

GARlJEN, AND THE LAWN-WrrH DESCKIPTIO.NS OF THOSE PLANTS>

AND TREES MOST WORTHV OF CULTURE IN EACH

DEPARTMENT.

"WITH ADDITIONS AND AKIEN D IVIE N T S,

ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE UNITED STATES.

In one small volume. Price only Twenty-five Cents.

THE COMPLETE KITCHEN AND FRUIT GARDENER.

A SELECT MANUAL OF KITCHEN GARDENING,

AND THE CULTURE OF FRUITS,

CONTAINING FAMILIAR niRECTIONS FOR THE MOST APPROVED PRACTICE IN EACH

DEPAR'IMENT, DESCRIPTIONS OF MANY VALUABLE FRUITS, AND A

CALEND.VR OF WORK TO BE PERFOKilED EACH

MONTH IN THE YEAR.

THE WHOLE ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE UNITED STATES.
In one small volume, paper. Price only Twenty-five Cents.

LANDRETITS RURAL REGISTER AND ALIVIANAC, FOR 1848,

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

STILL ON HAND,

A FE'W COPIES OF THE REGISTER FOR 1847,

WITH OVER ONE HUNDRED WOOD-CUTS.

This work has 1.W large 12mo. pages, double columns. Though published annually, and contain-
ing an almanac, the principal part of the matter is of permanent iiUhty to the horticulturist and
6imier.

LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS.

HUMAN HEALTH:

OR, THE rNFLUENCE OF ATJIOSPHERE AND LOCALITY, CHANGE OF AIR AND

CLLMATE, SEASONS, FOOD, CLOTHING, BATHING, MINERAL SPRINGS,

EXERCISE, SLEEP, CORPOREAL AND MENTAL PUiU

SUITS, ic, Ac, ON HEALTHY MAN,

CONSTITUTING ELEMENTS OF HYGIENE.

BY ROBLEY DUNGLISON, M. D., &c., &c.
In one octavo volume.
*^* Persons in the pursuit of health, as well as those who desire to retain
it, would do well to examine this work. The author states the work has
been prepared "to enable the general reader to understand the nature of
the actions of various influences on human health, and assist him in adopt-
ing such means as may tend to its preservation: hence the author has
avoided introducing technicalities, except where they appeared to him indis-
pensable."

REMARKS ON THE INFLUENCE OF MENTAL EXCITEMENT,

AND MENTAL CULTIVATION UPON HEALTH.
B7 A. BRXGHAIVI, IVI.D.

Third edition ; one volume, 18mo.

A TREATISE ON

COBITS, BUITIOZTS, THZ! DISEASES OF THS XTiiII.S,

AND THE GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF THE FEET.

BY LEWIS DURLACHER,

BCBOEON CHIEOPODIST TO THE a U E E IT.

In one duodecimo volume, cloth.
BHIDGS'WJVTSR TREATISES.

The whole complete in 7 vols. 8vo., various bindings,

C0PiTAi:<t.\O:

ROGET'S ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE PHY'SIOLOGY, in 2 vols., with many cuts.
KIRBY ON THE HISTORY, HABITS AND INSTINCT OF ANIMALS, 1 voL, with plates.
PROUTON CHEMISTRY— CHALMERS ON THE MORAL CONDITION OF MAN-WHEWELL

ON AST RON Oin— BELL ON THE HAND— KIDD ON THE PHYSICAL CONDITION OP

JIAN, 2 volumes.
BUCKLAND'S GEOLOGY, 2 vols., with numerous plates and maps.

Roget, Burkland, and Kirby are sold separate.

THE DOMESTIC MANAGEMENT OF THE SICK ROOM,

NECESSARY, IN AID OF MEDIC.4.L TREATMENT, FOR THE CURE OF DISEASES.

BY A. T. THOMSON, M. D., &c. &c.

First American, from the Second London Edition. Edited by R. E. GRirnTH, M. D.

In one royal ]2rao. volume, extra cloth, with cuts.

" There is no interference with the duties of the medical attendant, but sound, sensible, and

clear advice what to do, and how to act, so as to meet unforeseen emergencies, and co-operate

with professional skill." — Literary GazttU.

THE MILLWRIGHT AND MILLER'S GUIDE.

BY OLIVER EVANS.

THE ELEVENTH EDITION,
WITH ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS, BY THE PROFESSOR OF MECHA-
NICS IN THE FRANKLIN INSTITUTE OF PENNSYLVANIA,
AND A DE.SCRIITION OF AN IMPROVED MERCH.A.NT FLOUR MILL.

WITH ENGR\VIN(-,3.

BY C. & O. EVANS, ENGINEERS.
Tliis is a practical work, and has had a very extended sale

LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS.

SCHOOL BOOKS.

BIRD'S NATURAL PHILOSOPHY.

NEARLY READY.

ELEMENTS OF NATURAL PHILOSOPHY,

BEING AN EXPERIMENTAL INTRODUCTION TO THE PHYSICAL SCIENCES.
ILLUSTRATED WITH OVER THREE HUNDRED WOOD-CUTS.

BY GOLDING BIRD, M.D.,

Assistant Pliysician to Guy's HospitaL

FROM THE THIRD LONDON EDITION.

In one neat volume.

"By the appearance of Dr. BinVs work, the student has now all that he can desire in one nent,
concise, and wellnlmestfd volume. The elements of natunil philosnphy are explained in very sim-
ple lang:uage, and illustrated by numerous wood-cuts." — Medical Gazette.

ARNOTT'S PHYSICS.

ELEMENTS OF PHYSICS; OR, NATURAL PHILOSOPHY,

GENERAL AND MEDICAL.

WRITTEN FOR UNIVERSAL USE, IN PLAIN, OR NON-TECHNICAL LANGUAGE.

BY NIELL ARNOTT, IVr.D.

A NEW EDITION, BY ISAAC HAYS, M. D.

Complete in one octavo volume, with nearly two hundred wood-cuts.

This standard work has been Ion? and favourably known as one of the best popular exposition*
of the interestin? science it treats of. It is extensively used in many of the first semmaries.

ELEMENTARY CHEMISTRY, THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL

BY GEORGE FO WNE S, Ph. D.,

Chemical Lecturer in the Middlesex Hospital Medical School, <tc., Ac.

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

EDITED, WITH ADDITIONS,

BY ROBERT BRIDGES, M. D.,

Professor of General and PharmaceuticiilChcmistry in the Philadelphia College of Pharmacy, Ac, Ac.

SECOND AMERICAN EDITION.

In one large duodecimo volume, sheep or extra cloth, with nearly two

hundred woodcuts.

The character of this work is such as to rrcnmmend it to all colleres and acndemies in want of a
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so entirely changed the fare of Itie science, and it is completely illiistraiiMl with very numerous
wood enrinvines, explanal(ir>' of all the different processes and forms of apjianiius. TliouKh strictly
scientific, it is wTitten with great clearness and simplicity of style, renderins it easy to be compre-
"lended bv those who are commencing the sludv.

It may be hiul well bound in leather, or neatly done up in strong cloth. Its low price places it
within the reach of all.

BREWSTER'S OPTICS.

HJaHiaiiNTS OF OPTICS,

BY SIR DAVID liRKWSTER.

WITH NOTES AND ADIIITIONS, BY A. D. HACHE, LL.D.

Superintendent of the Coast Survey, Ac

In one volume, 12iiio.. with nuiiicroiis wnoil cut*

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A SELECTION OF ONE HUNDRED PERRIN'S FABLES,

ACCOMPANIED BY A KEY,

Containing the text, a literal and free translation, arranged in such a manner as to

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A COLLECTION OF COLLOQUIAL PHRASES,

ON EVERY TOPIC NECESSARY TO MAINTAIN CONVERSATION,

Arranged under different heads, with numerous remarks on tlie peculiar pronunciation
and uses of various words; the whole so disposed as considerably to facilitate the
acquisition of a correct pronunciation of the French, in 1 vol., 18mo.

LES AVENTURES DE TELEMAQUE PAR FENELON,

In 1 vol., 12mo., accompanied by a Key to the first eight books, in 1 vol., ]2mo., con-
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ALL THE FRENCH VERBS,

Both regular and irregular, in a small volume.

nvTiFurRTTimTc^

NEARLY READY.

PRINCIPLES OF PHYSICS AND METEOROLOGY.

BY J. MULLER,

Professor of Physics at tlie University of Frieburg.

ILLUSTRATED WITH NEAELY nVE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ENGRAVINOS ON WOOD, AND TWC
COLORED PLATES.

In one octavo volume.

This Edition is improved by the addition of various articles, and will be found in
every respect brought up to the time of publication.

" The Physics of Muller is a work, superb, complete, unique : the grreatest want known to Eng-
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the rust of the original drawing ajid en^'ravings alone has exceeded the sum of 2iJ00i!." — Lancet,
March, iai7.

BlmFfs7¥c^^

Am iiTI..A.S OF A.NCJ.-E-NT GSOGR AFHT,

BY SAMUEL BUTLER, U.D.,

Late Lord Bishop of Litchfield,
CONTAININO TWENTY-ONE COLOURED MAPS, AND A COMPLETE ACCENTOATED INDEX.

In one octavo volume, half-bound.

BUTLER'S ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY.

GSOGRAFHIiV CX.ASSIC.A.,

©R, T''E APPLICATION OF ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY TO THE CLASSICS
BY SAMUEL BUTLER, D.D., F.R.S.

REVISED BY HIS SON.

FIFTH AMERICAN, FKO.M TilF, LAST LONDON EDITION,

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American students and practitioners. The plan of the work is such as to
render it equally valuable in all the States, embracing, as it does, the pecu-
liar modifications of the law alike in Massachusetts and MissorKi, New
York and Mississiffi. In this edition, the statutes and decisions subse-
quent to the former one, which are very numerous, have all been incorpo-
rated, thus making it one-third larger than the original work, and bringing
the view of the law upon the subject treated quite down to the present time.
The book is recommended in the highest terms by distinguished jtirists of
different Stales, as will be seen by the subjoined extracts.

" The work before us supplies this deficiency in a highly satisfactory manner. It is beyond all
question the best work of the kind that we now hare, and although we doubt whether this or any
other work will be likely to supplant Cruise's Digest, we do not hesitate to say, that of the two,
this IS the more valuable to the Amencan lawyer. We congratulate the author upon the success-
ftil accomplishment of the arduous task he undertook, in reducing the vast body of the Amencan
Law of Real Property to ' portable size.' and we do not doubt that his labours will be duly appre-
ciated by the profession." — Laa Reprnler, Aug., IStS.

Judge Story sa>-s :— " I think the work a very valuable addition to our present stock of juridical
Utcrature. It embraces all that part of Mr. Cruise's Digest which is most useful to Amencan law-
yers. But its hieher value is, that it presents in a concise, but dear and exact form, the substanca
of .American Law on the same subject, i know no work that ice possess, whose practical uttjitf is
Wielf to be so extensirelr feU." " The wonder is, that the author has been able to bring so gret a
mass into so condensed a text, at once comprehensive and lucid."

Chancellor Kent saj-s of the work (Commentaries, vol ii, pt 635, note, 5th edition) :— " It is a work
of great labour and intnnsic value."

Hon. Rufus Choate savs :— " Mr. Hilliani's work has been for three or four years in use, and 1
think that Mr. Justice Story and Chancellor Kent express the general opinion of the Massachuretti
Bar."

Professor Grecnleaf says :— " 1 had already found the first edition a very convenient book of refe-
rence, and do not doubt, from the appearance of the second, that it is greatly improved."

Professor J. H Towiusi^ml. of Vale College, says :—

'• I Iravi- ticrn acquainted for several years with the first edition of Mr. Hilliard's Treatise, and
have formed a very favoarahle opmion »f it 1 have nodi»il>t the second e<li!ion will be found even
more valuable than the first. and I shaU he hr.pp>- In rpcmmend it as I may h-n-e opportunity. I
know of ii.i other work on the sn'tiecl of Real Estate, so c .raprebeiisive and so wcil adapted to lh«
(tale of ikc I:i« ill tlll■^ i->iuutrj-."

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BY C. G. ADDISON, ESQ.,

Of the Inner Temple, Barrister at I^aw.
In one volume, octavo, handsomely bound in law sheep.

In tliis treatise upon the most constantly and frequently administered
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and has supported, illustrated or exemplified them by references to nearly
four thousand adjudged cases. It comprises the Rights and Liabilities of
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WHEATON'S INTERNATIONAL LAW.

BIiEXflCSXTTS OF INTHUTT ATION JLJm I^AVV,

BY HENRY WHE A T O N, LL. D.,

Minister of the United States at the Court of Russia, ic.

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HILL ON TRUSTEES.

A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE LAW RELATING TO TRUSTEES,

THEIR POWERS, DUTIES, PRIVILEGES AND LIARILITIES.

BY JAMES HILL, ESQ.,

Of the Inner Temple, Barrister at I^w.

EDITED BY FRANCIS J. TROUBAT,

Of the Philadelphia Bar.

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AMERICAN JOURN.\L OF THE ME-
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AN ANALYTICAL COMPEND of the
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and F. Gurney ^niith, M. D., with nu-
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HARRISON ON THE NERVES, 1 vol.
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MULLER'S PHYSIOLOGY, by Bell, 1 vol.
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ROGET'S OUTLINES OP PHYSI-
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SOLLY ON THE HUMAN BRAIN, ITS
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TODD AND BOWMAN'S PHYSIOLO-
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ALISON'S OUTLINES OF PATHO-
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ANDRAL ON THE BLOOD, translated
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BUDD ON THE LIVER, 1 vol. Svo., 3D2
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BILLING'S PRINCIPLES, 1 vol. 8vo., 304
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BIRD ON URINARY DEPOSITS, 8vo.,
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BASSE'S PATHOLOGICAL ANATO-
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HOPE ON THE HEART, by Pennock, a
new edition, with plates, 1 vol. 8vo., 572
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HUGHES ON THE LUNGS AND
HEART, 1 vol. 12mo., 270 pages, with a
plate.

FHILIP ON PROTRACTED INDIGES-
TION, Svo 240 pages.

PHILIP^ N SCROFULA, 1 vol. 8vo.,
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PROLP ON THE STOMACH AND RE-
NAL DISEASES, 1 vol. 8vo., 460 pages,
coloured plates.

RICORU ON VENEREAL, new edition,
1 vol. 8vo., 250 pages.

VOG EL'S PATHOLOGICAL ANATOMY
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WA LSHE ON THE LUNGS, 1 vol. 12mo.,
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WILSON ON THE SKIN, 1 vol. 8vo.,
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Same Work, with coloured plates.

WILLIAMS' PATHOLOGY, OR PRIN-
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384 pages.

WILLIAMS ON THE RESPIRATORY
ORGANS, by Clyiuer, 1 vol. 8vo., 500
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PRACTICE OF MEDICINE.

ASHWELL ON THE DISEASES OP
FEMALES, by Goddard, 1 vol. 8vo., 520
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BARTLETT ON THE HISTORY, DIAG-
NOSIS AND TREATMENT OF TY-
PHOID, TYPHUS, BILIOUS REMIT-
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FEVER, a new and extended edition of
his former work (nearly ready).

BENEDICT'S COMPENDIUM OF
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CHAPMAN ON THORACIC AND AB-
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384 pages.

CHAPMAN ON FEVERS, GOUT,
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COLOMBAT DE L'ISERE ON FE-
MALES, translated and edited by Meigs,
1 vol. 8vo., 720 pages, cuts.

COATES' POPULAR MEDICINE, a new
edition, brought up to the day, many
cuts (preparing).

CONDIE ON THE DISEASES OF CHIL-
DREN, 2d edition, 1 vol. 8vo., C58 pages,

CHURCHILL ON THE DISEASES OF
FE.MAI,ES, by Huston, 4th edition, 1
vol. 8vo., C04 pages.

CHURCHILL ON THE MANAGEj-NIENT
AND MORE IMPORTANT DISEASES
OF INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD
(preparing).

CLYMER AND OTHERS ON FEVERS,
a complete work, in 1 vol. 8vo., 600
pages.

DEWEES ON CHILDREN, 9th edition,
1 vol. 8vo., 548 pages.

DEWEES ON FEMALES, 8th edition, 1
vol. 8vo., 532 pages, with plates.

DUNGLISON'S PRACTICE OF MEDI-
CINE, 2d edition, 2 volumes 8vo., 1322
pages.

ESaUIROL ON INSANITY, by Hunt,
8vo., 490 pages.

MEIGS ON FEMALES, in a series of
Letters to his Class, with cuts (a nevf
work, nearly ready).

THOMSON ON THE SICK ROOM, &c.,
1 vol. large 12mo., ;!<iO pages, cuts.

WATSON'S PRINCIPLES AND PRAC-
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BRODIE ON URINARY ORGANS, 1 vol. ROBERTSON ON THE TEETH, 1 vol.

8vo., 214 jiages. < 8vo., 230 pages, plates.

BRODIE ON THE JOINTS, 1 vol. 8vo. SARGENT'S MINOR SURGERY, 1 vol.

2 IG pages. j 12iuo., will) cuts (preparing).

BRODIES LECTURES ON SURGERY.
1 vol. Svo., 350 pages.

BRODIE'S SELECT SURGICAL WORKS
1 vol. 8vo., T.-,0 pages.

CHELIUS' SYSTEM OF SURGERY, by

South and Norris, in 3 large 8vo. vols.,

over 2000 paires, well bound.
rnoPFR ON DISIOC\TIO-VS AND DUNGLISON'S M.\TER1A MEDICA

CUOl'l^K U.\ IJ1SI,UU.'V11VJ.>I^ niyu , ^ vri Til PH A Pl.TTTII S! a now ed ton.

FRACTURES, 1 vol. 8vo.,500 pp., many
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MATERIA MEDICA AND THERA-
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COOPER ON HERNIA, 1 vol. imp. 8vo.,
428 pages, plates.

COOPER ON THE TESTIS AND THY-
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, AND TllERAPHUTIl.S, a now edition,
I with cuts, 2 vols. 8vo , 986 pages.

i DUNGLISON on new REMEDIES, 5th
i ed., i vol. Svo. , 053 pages.

; ELLIS' MEDICAL FORMULARY, 8th
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COOPER ON THE ANATOMY AND GRIFFITH'S MEDICAL BOTANY, a

DISEASES OF THE BREAST, SUR-
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DRUITTS PRINCIPLES AND PRAC-
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DURLACHER ON CORNS, BUNIONS,
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DISEASES AND SURGERY OF THE
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paring).

FERGUSSON'S PRACTICAL SURGERY
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GUTHRIE ON THE BLADDER, 8vo.,

150 pages.
HARRIS ON THE MAXILLARY SI-

NUS, 8vo., 16G pages

JONES' (WHARTON) OPHTHALMIC
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1 vol. rnyal I2mo., 529 pages, many cuts,
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LISTON'S LECTURES ON SURGERY, :

by Miitter, 1 vol. 8vo., 506 pages, many

cuts.
LAWRENCE ON THE EYE, by Hays,

new edition, much improved, 863 pages,

many cuts and plates.

L.\WRENCE ON RUPTURES, 1 vol.

8vo., 480 pages.

MALGAIGNES OPERATIVE SUR-
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MILLER'S PRINCIPLES OF SURGERY,
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MILLERS PRACTICE OF SURGERY,
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new anil complete work, 1 large vol.
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iGRIFFITirS tfNIVERSAL FORMU-
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IpEREIRA'S MATERIA MEDICA AND
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ROYLES MATERIA MEDICA AND
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STILLES ELEMENTS OF GENERAL
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UNIVERSAL DISPENSATORY, with
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OBSTETRICS.

CHURCHILL'S THEORY AND PRAC-
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DEWEES' SY.-TEM OF MIDWIFERY,
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RIGBY'S SYSTEM OF MIDWIFERY, 1

vol. 8vo., 402 pages.

IrAMSBOTHAM ON PARTURITION,
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DUNGLISON ON HUMAN HEALTH,

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FOWNE'S ELEMENTARY CHEMIS-
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GRAHAMS ELEMENTS OF CHEMIS-
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MAN'S POWER OVER HIMSELF TO
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PRACTICAL ORGANIC CHEMISTRY,
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SIMON'S CHEMISTRY OF MAN, 8vo.,
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MEDICAL JURISPRUDENCE, EDUCA-
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BARTLETT'S PHILOSOPHY OF MEDI-
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DUNGLISON'S MEDICAL STUDENT,
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TAYLORS MEDICAL JURISPRU-
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TAYLORS MANUAL OP TOXICO-
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TRAILL'S MEDICAL JURISPRU-
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NATURAL SCIENCE, 8w3.

ARNOTT'S ELEMENTS OF PHYSICS. 1
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ANSTED'S ANCIENT WORLD— POPU" '■
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BIRD'S NATURAL PHILOSOPHY, from
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BREWSTER'S TREATISE ON OPTICS,
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BARRAGE'S " FRAGMENT," 1 vol. 8vo.,
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IBRIDGEWATER TREATISES, with
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CARPENTER'S ANIMAL PHYSIOLO-
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(CARPENTER'S POPULAR VEGETA-
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HERSCHELL'S TREATISE ON ASTRO-
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INTRODUCTION TO VEGETABLE
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METCALF ON CALORIC, 1 vol. large
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PHILOSOPHY IN SPORT MADE SCI-
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ROGET'S ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE
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YOUATT'S GREAT WORK ON THE

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DAY ARE NOTICED.
BY GEORGE SPENCE, ESQ.,
One of her Majesty's CouiiseL
IN TWO OCTAVO VOLUMES.

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mciexsod value to the work, and evmce much aci^uracy and care." — Ventisylvrinia Lnw JouniaL

T/iVIaOR'S XSEDICiLI. JURXSPRUDSXTCi:.
A PRACTICAL TRKATISE ON MEDICAL JURISPRUDENCE.

BY ALFRED S. TAYLOR,
Lecturer on Medical Jurisprudence and Cheniistrj' at Guy's Hospital, London.

With numerous Notes and Additions, and References to American Law,

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ADJUDGED AND DETERMINED IN THE COURT
OF KING'S BENCH.

WTTH TABLES OF THE NAXfES OF TliE CASES AND PRINCIPAL MATTERS.

BY ED"WARD HYDE EAST, ESQ.,

Of the luner Temple, Barrister at Law.

EDITED, WITH NOTES AND REFERENCES,

BY a. M. WHARTON, ESQ.,

Of the Plijladelphia Bar.

In eight large royal octavo volume.s, bound in best law sheep, raiser! bands and double
titles. Price, to subscribers, only twenty-five dollars.

In this edition of East, the sixteen volumes of the former edition have
been compressed into eight — two volumes in one throughout — but nothing
has been omitted; the entire work will be found, with the notes of Mr.
Wharton added to those of Mr. Day. The great reduction of price, (from
$72, the price of the last edition, to $25, the subscription price of this,)
together with the improvement in appearance, will, it is trusted, procure for
it a ready sale.

A NEW WORK ON GOURTS-MARTIAL

A TREATISE ON AMERICAN MILITARY LAW,

AND THE

PRACTICE OF COURTS-3IARTIAL,

WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR THEIR IMPROVEMENT.

BY JOHN O'BRIEN,

uectenant umted states artillery.

In one octavo volume, extra cloth, or law sheep.

"This work stands relatively to American Militaiy Law in the same position that Blackstone'i
Commentaries stand to Common Law." — U. S. Gazette.

CAMPBELL'S LORD CHANCELLORS.

UVES OF THE LORD CHANCELLORS AND KEEPERS OP
THE GREAT SEAL OF ENGLAND,

FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE REIGN OF KING GEORGE IV.,

BY JOHN LORD CAMPBELL, A.M., F.R.S.E.

FIRST SERIES,

In three neat demy octavo volumes, extra cloth,
BRINGING THE WORK TO THE TIME OF J.-UIES H., JUST ISSUED.

PREPARING,
SECOND SERIES,

In four volumes, to match,
CONTAINtNG FROH JAMES II. TO GEORGE IV.