ag SMITHSONIAN. DEPOSIT Bah) Pee es Fe “A DICTIONARY MODERN GARDENING. BY yY GEORGE WILLIAM JOHNSON, ESQ., FELLOW OF THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF INDIA; CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ROYAL CALEDONIAN AND MARYLAND HORTICULTURAL SOCIETIES ; AUTHOR OF THE PRINCIPLES OF PRACTICAL GARDENING ; - THE GARDENER’S ALMANACK, ETC { WITH ONE HUNDRED AND BIGHTY WOOD CUTS, EDITED, WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONS, 7 _-_BY DAVID LANDRETH, oe | OF ao SSE ae a . } PoaS ONS PES 4 pos’ aN ish ~ JF hery \ a 4 - ed PS ioe ' Ay / * : oy “Or 7 {© ‘Y Se, cy - \ 4 # PHILADELPHIA: Lee AND BLANCHARD, q > 1847. TO | a. JOHN LINDLEY, Pu. D., F.R.S., F VICE SECRETARY OF THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, AND PROFESSOR OF i BOTANY IN UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, a AS ONE OF THE MOST EFFICIENT PROMOTERS OF MODERN HORTICULTURE, THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. f % Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1847, by , LEA AND BLANCHARD, ef in the Office of the Clerk of the District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. \ 4 PHILADELPHIA: T. K. AND P. G. COLLINS, PRINTERS. re AUTHOR’S PREFACE. a Urry, more than either originality of contents or elegance of phraseology, has been the author’s principal object in the following pages. He has endea- voured to gather together in one volume, attainable at a moderate price, an arranged, easily consulted, record of Gardening, as itis. To effect this object, he has obtained aid from the best living authorities, as well as from their \iished works; but he has not neglected those of other periods, where he ‘s found in them directions upon which the moderns have suggested no im- » vements. Of all the authorities consulted, none has afforded such abundant in ormation as the Gardeners? Chronicle, of which it is not too much to say that, as tis the best of modern journals devoted to promoting the cultivation of the 1,80, whoever is fortunate enough to possess a complete copy of its five » lished volumes, has a work of reference from which he will rarely turn away »osatisfied if seeking for information relative to its peculiar subjects. in every instance, the author has endeavoured to give tribute where due, and he has erred in this, or in any other particular, he will be highly obliged by -errection. Besides the work already quoted, he has been much indebted to i Axton’s Botanical Dictionary ; WHATELEY’s Landscape Gardening ; GLENNY’S Practical Gardener and Florist; Maunp’s Botanic Garden; LinDLEY’s Theory of Horticulture; and The United Gardener and Land Steward’s Journal. The author does not wish to mislead his readers into the belief that this is a Botanical Dictionary. On the contrary, he has confined his notices to such genera of plants _ as deserve a place in some department of the garden; and, for the most part, even in enumerating the number of species in each genus, only those have been reckoned that are worthy of cultivation. It only remains to be explained that, in the sigalg calendars, b. intends the beginning, or first half of the month, and e. the end, or its closing half. The following works have also been freely consulted and quoted :— CurTHBERT JoHNsoN, On Fertilizers. Farmers?’ Encylopedia. Loupon anp Westwoon’s Kollar on Predatory Insects. | Lovpon’s Gardeners? Encyclopedia. Gardeners’? Magazine. Jounson’s Principles of Gardening. ABERCROMBIE’s Gardeners’ Dictionary. JoHnson’s Gardeners’? Almanack. Transactions of the London Horticultural Society. Caledonian Horticultural Transactions. Horticultural Magazine. DECANDOLLE’S Philosophy of Plants. PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. is THE ordinary form in cases of reprint, with additions and explanatory notes, has been departed from in the present instance with a desire to preserve the book from the awkward aspect which it would necessarily present, if every addition by the American editor had been included within brackets, or printed in varied type. : This edition has been greatly altered from the original. Many articles of little interest to Americans have been curtailed, or wholly omitted, and much new matter, with numerous illustrations, added; yet the present editor freely admits, and has desired the publishers to state, that he has only followed in the. path so admirably marked out by Mr. Johnson, to whom the chief merit of the work belongs. It has been an object with the publishers, and editor, to increase its popular character, thereby adapting it to the larger class of horticultural readers in this country, and they trust it may prove what they have desired it to be, an Encyclopedia of Gardening, if not of Rural Affairs, so condensed as to be within reach of most persons whom those subjects interest. THE PUBLISHERS. PHILADELPHIA, April, 1847. NOTE. It is evident that with a territory extending over so large a space, a monthly calendar, or direction for cropping, &c., cannot uniformly apply : Those who reside north or south of Pennsylvania, can readily make the necessary calculations as to time. Pm “ * THE GARDENERS’ DICTIONARY. DP Lee fo. AR BL ABELE TREE. (Populus alba.) “ ABLACTATION, the same as_In- ARCHING, and so called because it is a gradual withdrawing of the scion from its parent, the same as weaning, which in Latin is ablactatzo. ABLAQUEATION, baring the bodies of a tree’s main roots. This was an old mode of checking the tree’s over luxu- riance, for the purpose of making it fer- tile. A much less injurious plan is to drain the soil, and mix it with sand, chalk, or other less rich addition. Ane other method successfully pursued is to open a trench around the body, at a suitable distance, thus shortening the roots, and arresting the tree’s rapid growth. : ABNODATION, cutting off excres- cences and the stumps of branches close to the stem. The intention of this is to have the wound heal over, but it is very doubtful, in the case of branches, whether the extremity of a stump properly treated will not heal quicker than a wound close to the trunk. The unsightly aspect of pro- truding stumps will, however, induce close pruning. ABRICOCK, an old mode of spelling APRICOT, Armeniaca vulgaris. “ABRAXAS grossularia. Magpie Moth. The caterpillar of this moth often infests the leaves of the gooseber- ry bush, as well as the currant, sloe, and even the each, in early summer. ‘© The caterpillar,?? says Mr. Curtis, ‘is white, slightly tinged with blue, and having numerous black spots on the back ; it is called a looper, from its pe- culiar mode of walking ; it fixes itself first frmly with its hind feet, and then extends its body fully ; after which it puts down its fore feet, and draws the hind part of its body as close after them 3 ahpihe., evergreen. ‘nials 3 aie roots. ACA as possible, thus forming an arch or loop.”’—Gard. Chron. ABROMA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Seed or cuttings. Loam and peat. ABRONIA. Two species. Hardy perennial trailers. Rooted slips. Sandy peat. ABRUS precatorius. Wild Liquorice. - Stove climber. Cuttings. Sand and eat. ABUTA rufescens. climber. Rooted. slips. eat. ABUTILON. . Three species. One stove, and two green-house evergreen Cuttings. Light rich loam. A. striatum. Green-house shrub. « As_ this seems likely to suit a bed in the flower garden, to increase it keep it in the stove, as it will there push even in winter, and every two joints will be | sufficient for a cutting, which will make © a plant in a fortnight or three weeks. By the time the cutting has pushed far — enough to admit of being topped, ano- ther cutting may be made “of it, and pro- ceeded with as before. If kept in the green-house during winter it will not move at all.”»—Gard. Chron. ACACIA. 274 species, stove and green-house evergreens.’ Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. ACASNA splendens. Green-house Seed. Loam and peat. ACANTHOPHIPPIUM. Three spe- cies. Stove epiphytes. Offsets. Sandy peat and light loam. ACANTHUS. Bear’s Breech. Eight species. Six hardy herbaceous peren- © One green- house perenni seed. One stove evergreen; cuttings. AJl require sandy peat and loam. ACARUS, the Plant Mite. Class ~ Stove evergreen | Loam and ACA 18 ACC ———— Arachnide. : chief of those known to the gardener. | also desirable varieties. Seed, cuttings, Acarus tellarius, the Red Spider, is one | and layers. Common light garden soil. of the gardener’s most troublesome ACERAS, Two species, both tube- foes. Its colour varies from yellowish | rous-rooted hardy perennials. Seeds. to red-brown, and though almost invi- | Light loam. ie sible from its minuteness, yet it preys| ACERATIUM oppositifolium. Stove most destructively upon some trees and |evergreen shrub. Peatand loam. Cut- herbaceous plants in our hot-houses, | tings. = as well as upon the kidney-bean, lime | A ee PLANTS. Salading. tree, &c., out of doors in drysummers.| _ACCLIMATIZATION is rendering a A. holosericeus is another species, dis- | plant capable of the production desired tinguishable to an unscienced eye /|ina climate differing from that in which chiefly by its scarlet colour. To de- itis native. In ourclimate it is usually stroy them in the hothouse, there is no required to induce a plant to endure plan so effeetual as heating the flues or | lower temperatures than those to which pipes, and sprinkling upon them sul-| it has been accustomed, and this, though phur. The air is thus gently impreg- | some are intractable, is more easy than nated with the vapour of sulphur, for it|is inducing the natives of colder re- begins to evaporate at a heat of 170°. | gions to live in our latitudes. 'Whena This vapour is fatal to the insect where | new plant arrives from a tropical coun- the airis thoroughly impregnated with |try, it is desirable to use every precau- it, and the work of destruction is com- | tion to avoid its loss, but so soon as it The following are the | A. pseudo-platanoides, or Sycamore, are _ pleted by syringing the infested plants | with water. This Jast is the only prac- | tical remedy-to plants in our borders, | unless they can be covered over so that | the fumes may be confined, whilst the | sulphur is volatilized over a hot-water | has been propagated from, and the dan- ger of such loss is removed, from that moment ought experiments to com- mence, to ascertain whether its acelima- tization is attainable. That this should be done is selfevident; for the nearer plate. Potted plants may be submitted . such a desirable point can be attained, to the vapour of sulphur in a similar) the cheaper will be its cultivation, and way. The vapour of spirit of turpen-| consequently the greater will be the tine is said to be as effectual as sulphur. | number of those who will be able to de- Acarus hortensis, the Garden Mite, tho- | rive pleasure from its growth. Hence rax ochreous, abdomen white, has been | it is very desirable that an extended se- found upon the roots of the cucumber, | ries of experiments should be instituted, upon which itis said toprey. I believe | to ascertain decisively whether many of it to be the same Acarus often soabund- our present green-house plants would ant upon the root of cabbages affected | not endure exposure to our winters, if with the Ambury. A. geniculatus is a| but slightly or not at all protected. It minute, red, shining mite, gregarious,|may be laid down as a rule, that all and congregating during spring in pro-| Japan plants wil] do so in the southern digious numbers upon the bark of the | states, but it remains unascertained to plum and other fruit trees, near the base | what degree of northern latitude this of the twigs, and Jooking like a gummy | general power of endurance extends. exudation. By extracting the sap they | Experiment, and experiment only, ought doubtless weaken the tree, and reduce | to be relied upon; for we know that its productiveness.—Gard. Chron. \the larch was once kept in a green- ACER. Maple. Twenty-seven spe-|house in England. Many tropical cies, all hardy trees except Acer oblon- | plants of every order and species, have gum, which is halfhardy. The Sugar | been found to require much less heat, Maple, A. saccharinum of the Ameri-|both during the day and during the can forests, is perhaps one of the finest | night, than gardeners of a previous cen- ‘species. It forms a full round head, its tary believed. Other plants than t se deep green leaves changing in autumn | already noticed have passed co. oe to many shades of orange. The Silver|tropics to our parterres, and ae .. The Maple, A. desycarpum a light airy ) those of higher northern latitudes. tree, of quick growth, and extensively | horse chestnut isa native of the tropics, planted in the streets of Philadelphia. | but it endures uninjured the stern eli- A. platanoides, or Norway Maple, and | mate of Sweden. Aucuba Japonica and ACC 19 ACH ——_9@——_ Peonia Moutan, we all remember to have passed from our stoves to the green-house, and now they are in our open gardens. Every year renders us acquainted with instances of plants being acclimatized : and, in addition to those already noticed, we find that Mr. Buchan, Lord Bagot’s gardener, at Blithfield House, in Staffordshire, has an old cinnamon tree (Laurus Cinnamo- mum) under his care, which ripens seed: from these many plants have been raised that endure the winters of England ina conservatory without any artificial heat. Then, again, there is no doubt that al] the conifere of Mexico, which flourish there at an elevation of more than 8000 feet above the sea’s level, will survive our winters in the open air. Among these are Pinus Llaveana, P. Teocate, P. patula, P. Hartwegii, Cupressus thurt- Sera, Juniperus flaccida, Abies religiosa, and some others. Many natives of the southern states have been gradually ac- climated in Pennsylvania; experience has, however, demonstrated that the na- ture of the soil is all-important. On sandy or light loamy Jand with gravelly subsoil, many plants are found to with- stand the winter, which would surely perish on heavy or wet land. So also the aspect as regards exposure to the sun, it having been found from repeated observation that tender plants, espe- cially if evergreen, suffer less from cold when screened from the sun’s rays. The cause isobvious. An extensive impor- tation of European Holly received at the Landreth Nurseries, were, as a pro- tection from the summer sun, planted on the north side of a high board fence, where they safely resisted the severity of winter: subsequently they were placed in open positions, and all were killed by the combined action of heat and cold. The following general rules are the results of experiments in the London Horticultural Society’s Garden, conducted by Mr. Gordon. 1. ‘ Plants intended to be acclimatized, should never be subjected to artificial heat dur- ing the winter that precedes their being planted out; if obtained from seeds, as little heat as possible should be em- ployed in raising them; and starved or stunted plants are more likely to suc- ceed than such as have been forced into a rapid and luxuriant growth. 2. The _ plants should not. be committed to the May ; the soil should be poor, dry, and thoroughly drained; if against a wall, the border should be protected through the entire winter by a roof of hurdles thatched with straw, and projecting about three feet.?’ ACHILLEA. Milfoil. Sixty-four spe- cies, all, except A. gyptica, herba- ceous perennials. Common garden soil. Division of roots. A. igyptica is a green-house evergreen, Cuttings. Peat and loam. ACHIMENES. Six species. Stove bulbs. ‘After the plants have done flowering, and the tops die down, in November, allow the bulbs to remain ~ undisturbed in the pots, laid on their sides beneath the green-house stage, or some other place where frost and wet cannot reach them, where they may re- main until the latter part of January, then to be placed in a gentler heat, and watered until the soil becomes suffi- ciently moist to encourage vegetation. When the small scaly bulbs have made shoots about two inches in length, plant them singly in small sixties, in a mixture of leaf mould and a small portion of sil- ver sand. At the subsequent shifting, until the plants are finally placed in six- teens in June, the compost consists of light rich turf loam and peat, or leaf mould, when peat cannot be procured in equal proportions, and on no account sifted. The pots are thoroughly drained, a point which forms the basis of all good culture, both in pots and in the open ground. For growing several plants in one pot, take No. 12 size, into which turn five of the plants previously kept in sixties, placing one in the cen- tre, and four round the edges. These forma noble mass when in bloom ;, but never assume the uniform conical shape of a single specimen. The main stem and side branches are to be neatly sticked and tied out as they advance in growth. The temperature of an early vinery is well adapted for these. plants until the end of May, at which period they should be taken to a cool pit, where a steady moist heat can be maintained. They should be shaded in hot days be- tween 11 A.M. and 2 P.M., to prevent the sun from scorching the foliage, and ‘they should never be watered over- head. The pots should be niece upon others, inverted, and the bottOm of the pit should be kept moist, closing up open ground earlier than the end of| early in the afternoon, and giving air in ACH 20 Oe —— clear weather about eight in the morn- ing, so that the damp may disperse be- fore the rays of the sun fall directly up- on the plants.”°— Gard. Chron. A. Longifiora. ‘The bulbs of this may be started in a warm cucumber frame towards the end of February. Each plant, when it has formed a few leaves, should then be potted off, sepa- rately, into small pots, or, preferably, several may be planted together in a shallow box. The temperature of a warm green-house suits them admira~ bly.°—Gard. Chron. ACHYRONIA villosa. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and Joam. | : ACIANTHUS. Three species. Tu- berous green-house plants. Division. Loam and peat. ACICARPHA © spatulata. Herba- ceous stove perennial. Division. Loam and peat. ACIOTIS. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam. ACIS. Four species. Hardy bulbs. Offsets. Sandy Joam. ACISANTHERA quadrata. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and Joam. ACMADENIA tetragona. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat. ACMENA floribunda. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy Joam. ACONITUM. Eighty species hardy deciduous tubers; and thirty-four spe- cies hardy herbaceous perennials. ‘ A. Napellus, from napus, a turnip, its gru- mous roots resembling little turnips, is a well known poisonous plant. Lin- nzus says, that it is fatal to kine and goats, especially when they come fresh to it, and are not acquainted with the plant; but that it does no injury to horses, who eat it only when dry. He also relates (from the Stockholm Acts) that an ignorant surgeon prescribed the leaves, and on the patient refusing to take them, he took them himself and died. The ancients, who were ac- quainted with chemical poisons, regard- ed the Aconite as the most violent of all poisons. Some persons, only by taking in the effluvia of the herb in full flower by the nostrils, have been seized with swooning fits, and have lost their sight for two or three days. But the root is unquestionably the most power- ful part of the plant. Matthiolus relates, that a criminal was put to death by taking one drachm of it. Dodonzus gives us an instance, recent in histime, of five persons at Antwerp, who ate the root by mistake, and all died. Dr. Turner also mentions, that some French- men at the same place, eating the shoots of this plant for those of master- wort, all died in the course of two days, except two players, who quickly evacu- ated all that they had taken by vomit. We have an account, in the Philosophi- cal Transactions, of a man who was poisoned, in the year 1732, by eating some of this plant in a salad, instead of celery. Dr. Willis also, in his work De Anima Brutorum, gives an instance ofa man who died in a few hours, by eating the tender leaves of this plant also in a salad. He was seized with all the’ symptoms of mania. The Aconite,~ thus invested with terrors, has, how- ever, been so far subdued, as to become a powerful remedy in some of the most troublesome disorders incident to the human frame. Baron Stoerck led the way by administering it in violent pains of the side and joints, in glandulous’ scirrhi, tumours, ulcerous tubercles of the breast, &c., tothe quantity of from ten to thirty grains in a dose, of an ex- tract, the method of making which he describes..°—Encyc. Plants. Division. Common garden soil. All are poison- ous. ACRONYCHIA cunninghami. Green- house shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. ACROPERA loddigesii. Stove epi- phyte. Division. Peat and potsherds. ACROPHYLLUM verticillatum. Green-house shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat. i ACROSPIRE is the name whereby malsters, gardeners, and others describe the sprouts from barley and other seeds when germinating, and which are the radicle and plumule, the infant root and stem. ACROSTICHUM. Sixteen species. Chiefly stove herbaceous perennials. A. alcicorne and A. grande are green- house plants. Division and seed. Loam and peat. ACROTRICHE. Three species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy peat. ACTINOMERTS. Four species. ACT 21 AGA rh a Hardy herbaceous perennials. Divi-|annuals. Seeds. Light rich garden sion. Peat and loam. soil. ; _ACTINOTUS. Two species. Green-; ASOLLANTHUS suaveolens. Stove house herbaceous perennials. Division.| annual. Seeds. Sandy loam. | Sandy loam. JEONIUM Youngianum. Green- ACYNOS. Eleven species. All hardy. Seeds. Drysandy soil. ' ADAMIA cyanea. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and loam. ADAM’S NEEDLE. Yucca. - ADDER’S TONGUE. Opioglossum. ADELIA. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and} loam. _ADENANDRA. Thirteen species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Loam and peat. ADENANTHERA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy Joam and peat. ADENANTHOS. Three species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy peat and loam. fs obo- vata is best from seed. ADENOCARPUS. Six species. A. foliolosus and frankenioides are ever- green shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam. The others are hardy deciduous shrubs. Seeds. Common garden soil. ADENOPHORA. Sixteen species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Com- mon garden soil. Peat and loam. ADESMIA. Eight species, of which A. viscosa is hardy. The others are green-house plants. A.viscosa and us- pallatensis are propagated by cuttings. The others from seed. All in sandy loam. ADIANTUM. Maidenhair. Twen- ty-nine species. All green-house or stove plants, except A. capillus veneris and pubescens. They are hardy herba- ' eous perennials. Division. Loam and eat. ADINA globiflora. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. ADLUMIA cirrhosa. Hardy climb- ing biennial. Seeds. Sandy loam. ADONIS. Thirteen species. All hardy. Seed. Common garden soil. _ #iGIPHILA. Seven species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Garengs: Loam and peat. \ : ZEGLE marmelos. Stove evergreen Loam. ' ASCHMEA. Three species. oe Suckers. sand. ZEGOCHLOA. Six species. Al] hardy Bengal Quince. shrub. Cuttings. Stove Loam, peat, and wise described). house. Cuttings. Sandy loam. ESCHYNANTHUS. Two species. Stove epiphytes. Cuttings. Peat and potsherds, or wood. ASSCULUS. Horse-chestnut. Ze. glabra. (Grafts.) 44. hippocasianum, flore pleno. (Lay- ers.) AE. hippocastanum, fol. argenteis. ABEY: ers.) LE. hippocastanum variegatum. AB. ohiensis. | AE. pallida. (Grafts.) Ee. rubicunda. (Grafts.) All hardy deciduous trees. The com- mon European horse-chestnut 4. hip- pocastanum, is a truly magnificent tree, at once grand from its magnitude and massy form, and beautiful when in bloom from being covered with large spikes of white and pink flowers, pro- truding beyond its elegant digitate leaves. Seeds (except where cther- Common garden soil. AERANTHES. Twospecies. Stove epiphytes. Division. Peat and pot- sherds, or wood. AERIDES, (air plant.) Nine spe- cies. All stove epiphytes. Cuttings, except A. cornutum, which is multi- plied by root-divisions. Peat and pot- sherds, or wood. / FERUA. Two species. baceous perennials. Cuttings. moist soil. ; - ZESCYNOMENE. Eleven species. Stove her- Rich ZA. viscidula a green-house, and 4. hispida a hardy annual, the rest stove plants. Seeds. Sandy loam. JETHIONEMA. Six species. All hardy. Seed or cuttings. Common soil. | ZETHIONIA. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Common soil. AFRICAN ALMOND. Brabejum. AFRICAN FLEABANE. Tarcho- nanthus. AFRICAN LILY. Agapanthus. AFRICAN MARIGOLD. Yagetes Erecta. nee AGAPANTHUS. African Lily. Three species. Nearly hardy bulbs. Common soil. Offsets. AGASTACHYS odorata. Green- AGA 22 AGR : ° . house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. | arts and sciences.*? It is ‘‘ the basis of Loam, peat, and sand. AGATH/A‘A. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings. Loam and peat. AGATHOPHYLLUM aromaticum. Madagascar nutmeg. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Peat or rich loam. AGATHOSMA. Twenty-two spe- cies. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam. AGATHYRSUS. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous. Cuttings and di- visions. Common soil. AGATI. Two species. Stove ever- green trees. Cuttings. Peat and loam. AGAVE. Aloe. Nineteen species. Chiefly stove plants. Suckers. Rich loam. ‘*The name is altered from ayauoc, admirable, which this genus may well be said to be, considering its ap- pearance, itssize, and the beauty of its flowers. In mythology, Agave is the name of one ofthe Nereids. A. america- na isa popular succulent throughout Eu- rope. It grows wild or is acclimated in Sicily, the south of Spain, and Italy, and is much used in the latter country, plant- ed in vases as an ornament to piers, pa- rapets,and about houses. About Milan and other towns in Lombardy, where it will not endure the winter, they use imitations of copper so well formed and painted, as to be readily mistaken for the original. In France and Germany it is still very common; and in this country formerly used to be the regular companion of the orange, myrtle, and pomegranate, then our principal green- house plants. An idea used to prevail that the American Aloe only flowered once in a hundred years; but, inde- pendently of this unnatural application of time to the inflorescence, it has long been known to flower sooner or Jater according to the culture bestowed on it..’—Encyc. Plants. AGERATUM. Six species. Chiefly hardy annuals. Seed. Light rich soil. AGNOSTUS sinuata. Green-house evergreen tree, Cuttings. Sandy peat. AGRICULTURE, as compared to Horticulture, is the culture and man- agement of certain plants and animals for the food and service of man: itis, as Marshall observes, ‘‘a subject which, viewed in all its branches, an@ to their | | al! other arts, and in all countries co- eval with the first dawn of civilization. Without agriculture, mankind would be savages, thinly scattered through inter- minable forests, with no other habita- tions than caverns, hollow trees or huts, more rude and inconvenient than the most ordinary hovel or cattle-shed of the modern cultivator. It is the most universal as well as the most ancient of the arts, and requires the greatest num- ber of operators. It employs seven- eighths of the population of almost every civilized community.—Agricul- ture is not only indispensable to nation- al prosperity, but is eminently condu- cive to the welfare of those who are engaged in it. It gives health to the body, energy to the mind, is favourable to virtuous and temperate habits, and to knowledge and purity of moral charac- ter, which are the pillars of good goy- ernment and the true support of nation- al independence.—With regard to the history of agriculture, we must confine ourselves to slight sketches. The first mention of agriculture is found in the writings of Moses. From them we Jearn that Cain was a ‘tiller of the ground,? that Abel sacrificed the ‘firstlings of his flock,’ and that Noah ‘ began to be @ husbandman, and planted a vineyard.’ The Chinese, Japanese, Chaldeans, Egyptians.and Phenicians appear to have held husbandry in high estimation. The Egyptians were so sensible of its blessings, that they ascribed its inven- tion to superhuman agency, and even carried their gratitude to such an ab- surd excess as to worship the ox, for his services as a labourer. The Carthagin- ians carried the art of agriculture to a higher degree than other nations, their cotemporaries. Mago, one of their - most famous generals, wrote no less than twenty-eight books on agricultural topics, which, according to Columella, were translated into Latin by an express decree of the Roman senate.—Hesiod, a Greek writer, supposed to be cotem- porary with Homer, wrote a poem on agriculture, entitled Weeks and Days, which was so denominated because hus- bandry requires an exact observance of times and seasons. Other Greek writ- ers wrote on rural economy, and Xeno- fullest extent, is not only the most im-| phon among the number, but their portant and the most difficult in rural) works have been lost in the lapse of economies, but in the circle of human | ages.—The implements of Grecian agri- AGR 23 AGR ——_4__ culture were very few and simple. He- siod mentions a plough, consisting of three parts—the share-beam, the draught-pole and the plough-tail; but antiquarians are not agreed as to its exact form ; also acart with low wheels, and ten spans (seven feet six inches) in width; likewise the rake, sickle and ox-goad ; but no description is given of | the mode in which they were con- structed. The operations of Grecian culture, according to Hesiod, were} neither numerous nor complicated. The ground received three ploughings—one in autumn, another in spring, and a third immediately before sowing the seed. Manures were applied, and Pliny as- cribes their invention, to the Grecian king Augeas. Theophrastus mentions six different species of manures, and adds, that a mixture of soils produces the same effect as manures. Clay, he observes, should be mixed with sand, and sand with clay. Seed was sown by hand, and covered with a rake. Grain was reaped with a sickle, bound in sheaves, threshed, then winnowed by wind, laid in chests, bins or granaries, and taken out as wanted by the family, to be pounded in mortars or quern mills into meal.—The ancient Romans vene- rated the plough, and, in the earliest and purest times of the republic, the greatest praise which could be given te an illustrious character was to say that he was an industrious and judicious hus- bandman. M. Cato, the censor, who was celebrated as a statesman, orator and general, having conquered nations and governed provinces, derived his highest and most durable honours from having written a voluminous work on agriculture. In the Georgics of Vir- gil, the majesty of verse and the har- mony ef numbers add dignity and grace to the most useful of all topics. The - celebrated Columella ficurished in the reign of the Emperor Claudius, and he wrote twelve books on husbandry, which constituted a complete treatise on rural affairs. Varro, Pliny and Pal- ladius were likewise among the distin- guished Romans who wrote on agricul- tural subjects.—With regard to the Ro- man implements of agriculture, we learn that they used a great many, but their particular forms and uses are very imperfectly described. From what we can ascertain respecting them, they ap- pear mere worthy of the notice of the curious antiquarian, than of the practi- cal cultivator. The plough is repre- sented by Cato as of two kinds—one for strong, the other for light soils. Varro mentions one with two mould-boards, with which, he says, ‘when they plough, after sowing the seed, they are said to ridge.’ _ Pliny mentions a plough with one fnoutd: board, and others with a coulter, of which he says there were many kinds.—Fallowing was a practice rarely deviated from by the Romans. In most cases, a fallow and a year’s crop succeeded each other. Manure was collected from nearly or quite as many sources as have been resorted to by the moderns. Pigeon’s dung was esteemed of the greatest value, and, next to that, a mixture of night soil, scrapings of the streets and urine, which were applied to the roots of the vine and olive.-—The Romans did not bind their corn into sheaves. When cut, it was sent directly to the area to be threshed, and was separated from the chaff by throwing it from one part of the floor to the other. Feeding down grain, when too luxuriant, was practised. Virgil says, ‘ What commendation shall I give to him, who, Jest his corn should lodge, pastures it, while young, as soon as the blade equals the furrow!? (Geor., lib. i., 1. 111.) Watering on a large scale was applied both to arable and grass lands. Virgil advises to ‘bring down the waters of a river upon the sown corn, and, when the field is parched and the plants drying, convey it from the brow of a hill in channels.? (Geor., jib. 1., 1. 106.)—The farm man- agement most approved of by the sci- entific husbandmen of Rome was, in general, such as would meet the appro- bation of modern cultivators. The im- portance of thorough tillage isillustrated by the following apologue: A vine- dresser had two daughters and a vine- yard; when his oldest daughter was married, he gave her a third of his vine- yard for a portion, notwithstanding which he had the same quantity of fruit as formerly. When his youngest daugh- ter was married, he gave her half ef what remained ; still the produce of his vineyard was undiminished. This re- sult was the consequence of his bestow- ingas much labour on the third part left after his daughters had received their portions, as he had been accustomed to give to the whole vineyard.—The Ro- AGR 24 AGR =f} = mans, unlike many conquerors, instead of desolating, improved the countries which they subdued. They seldom or never burned or laid waste conquered countries, but laboured to civilize the ‘inhabitants, and. introduce the arts ne- cessary for promoting their comfort and happiness. To facilitate communica- tions from one district Yor town to an- other, seems to have been ‘a primary object with them, and their works of this kind are still discernible in nume- rous places. By employing their troops in this way, when not engaged in active service, their commanders seem to have had greatly the advantage over our modern generals. The Romansoldiers, instead of loitering in camps, or rioting In towns, enervating their strength, and corrupting their morals, were kept re- gularly at work, on objects highly bene- ficial to the interests of those whom they subjugated.—In the ages of anarchy and barbarism which succeeded the fall ‘of the Roman empire, agriculture was ‘almost wholly abandoned. Pasturage was preferred to tillage, because of the facility with which sheep, oxen, &c., can be driven away or concealed on the approach of an enemy.—The con- quest of England by the Normans con- tributed to the improvement of agri- ‘culture in Great Britain. Owing to that event, many thousands of husbandmen, from the fertile and well-cultivated plains of Flanders and Normandy, set- tled in Great Britain, obtained farms, and employed the same methods in cul- tivating them, which they had been ac- customed to use in their native coun- tries. Some of the Norman barons were great improvers of their lands, and were celebrated in history for their skill in agriculture. The Norman clergy, and especially the monks, did still more in this way than the nobility. The monks of every monastery retained such of their lands as they could most con- veniently take charge of, and these they cultivated with great care under their own inspection, and frequently with their own hands. The famous Thomas “a Becket, after he was Archbishop of Canterbury, used to go out into the field with the monks of the monastery where he happened to reside, and join with. them in reaping their corn and making their hay. The implements of agricul- ture, at this period, were similar to those in most common use in modern ) times. The various operations of bus- bandry, such as manuring, ploughing, sowing, harrowing, reaping, threshing, winnowing, &c., are incidentally men- tioned by the writers of those days, but it is impossible to collect from them a definite account of the manner in which those operations were performed.— The first English treatise on husbandry was published in the reign of Henry VIII., by Sir A. Fitzherbert, Judge of the Common Pleas. It is entitled the Book of Husbandry, and contains diree- tions for draining, clearing and enclos- ing a farm, for enriching the soil, and rendering it fit for tillage. Lime, mari and fallowing are strongly recommend- ed. ‘ The author of the Book of Hus- bandry,’? says Mr. Loudon, § writes from his own experience of more than forty years, and, if we except his biblical allusions, and some vestiges of the su- perstition of the Roman writers about the influence of the moon, there is very little of his work which should be omit- ted, and not a great deal that need be added, inso far as respects the culture of corn, in a manual of husbandry adapt- ed to the present time.’—Agriculture attained some eminence during the reign of Elizabeth. The principal writ- ers of that period were Tusser, Googe and Sir Hugh Platt. Tusser’s Five Hundred Points of Husbandry was pub- lished in 1562, and conveys much use- ful instruction in metre. The treatise of Barnaby Googe, entitled Whole Art of Husbandry, was printed in 1558. Sir Hugh Platt?s work was entitled Jewel Houses of Art and Nature, and was printed in 1594. In the former work, says Loudon, are many valuable hints on the progress of husbandry in the early part of the reign of Elizabeth. Among other curious things, he asserts that the Spanish or Merino sheep was originally derived from England.—Several writers on agriculture appeared in England dur- ing the commonwealth, whose names, with notices of their works, may be seea in Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Agricul- ture. From the Restoration down to the middle of the eighteenth century, agriculture remained almost stationary. Immediately after that period, consider- able improvement in the process of cul- ture was introduced by Jethro Tull, a © gentleman of Berkshire, who began to drill wheat and other crops about the year 1701, and whose Horse-hoeing AGR 25 "ALE Husbandry was published in 1731.|the indefatigable exertions of that wor- - Though this writer’s theories were in some respects erroneous, yet even his errors were of service, by exeiting in- quiry, and calling the attention of hus- bandmen to important objects. His _ hostility to manures, and attempting, in all cases, to substitute additional tillage in their place, were prominent defects in his system.—After the time of Tull’s publication, no great alteration in Bri- tish agriculture took place, till Robert Bakewell and others effected: some im- portant improvements in the breed of cattle, sheep and swine. By skilful selection at first, and constant care afterwards to breed from the best ani- mals, Bakewell at last obtained a va- riety of sheep, which, for early maturity and the property of returning a great quantity of mutton for the food which they consume, as well as for the small proportion which the weight of the offal bears to the four quarters, were with- out precedent. Culley, Cline, Lord Somerville, Sir J. S. Sebright, Darwin, Hunt, Hunter, Young, &c. &c., have all contributed to the improvement of do- mestic animals, and have left little to be desired in that branch of rural econo- my.—Among other works on agricul- ture, of distinguished merit, may be mentioned the Farmer’s Letters, Tour in France, Annals of Agriculture, &c. &c., by the celebrated Arthur Young ; Marshall’s numerous and_ excellent works, commencing, with Minutes of ‘Agriculture, published in 1787, and ending with his Review of the Agricul- tural Reports in 1816; Practical Agri- culture, by Dr. R. W. Dickson, &c. &c. The writings of Kaimes, Anderson and Sinclair exhibit a union of philosophical sagacity and patient experiment, which have produced results of great import- ance to the British nation and to the world. To these we shall only add the name of John Loudon, F.L.S.H.S., whose elaborate Encyclopedia of Gar- | dening and Encyclopedia of Agricul- ture have probably never been sur- passed by any similar works in any language. — The establishment of a national Board of Agriculture was of very great service to British husbandry. Hartlib, a century before, and Lord Kaimes, in his Gentleman Farmer, had pointed outthe utility of such an institu- tion, but it was left to Sir John Sinclair to carry their ideas into execution. To thy and eminent man the British public are indebted for an institution, whose services cannot be too highly appre- ciated. ‘It made farmers, residing in different parts of the kingdom, acquaint- ed with one another, and caused arapid dissemination of knowledge amongst the whole profession. The art of agri- culture was brought into fashion, old practices were amended, new ones in- troduced, and a degree of exertion call- ed forth heretofore unexampled among agriculturists im this island.’ ?*—Encyc. Am. AGRIMONYIA. Agrimony. Nine species. Hardy. Division. Common soil. AGROMYZA viola. Pansy Fly. It attacks the flower by puncturing the petal, and extracting the juice; the puncture causes the colouring matter to fade. This very minute fly is shining black, bristly, eyes green, head orange. It appears in May and lives throughout the summer. Where it deposits its eggs is unknown.—Gard, Chron. AGROSTEMMA. Four species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Common soil. AILANTUS. Two species. Hardy deciduous trees. The glandulosa is of rapid growth, and thrives admirably on light thin soils, where many forest trees do not succeed—it is objectionable by reason of suckering, and to many from the unpleasant odour of the flowers. Cuttings. Loamy peat. wie AIR. Atmospheric air is uniformly and universally composed of Gxygen .--. 21 Nitrogen. . 719 Every 100 parts, even in the driest weather, containing, in solution, one part of Water; and every 1000 parts having admixed about one part of Car- bonic Acid. The average proportions are ; AIR. nap ieee actigherl QBS Watery Vapour .. 1.0 Carbonic Acid Gas 0.1 All these are absolutely necessary to every plant to enable it to vegetate with all the vigour of which it is capable; and on its due state of moistness depends, in a great measure, the health of any plant requiring the protection of glass. See Leaves, Roots, Stove. AITONIA capensis. Green-house. Cuttings. Rich mould. 26 ALS ss ATU AJUGA. Bugle. _ Eleven species. Hardy. Division or seed. Sandy peat or loam. AKEE-TREE. Blighia sapida. ALANGIUM. Twospecies. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy loam. ALBUCA. Nineteen species. Green- house bulbs. Offsets. Sandy loam and peat. ALBURNUM. The soft white sub- stance which in treesis found between the liber or inner bark and the wood, | and in progress of time acquiring solid- ity, becomes itself the wood. A new layer of wood, or rather of alburnum is added annually to the tree in every part, just under the bark. ALCHEMILLA. Ladies? Mantle. Eleven species. Chiefly hardy. Seeds or division. Common soil. ALCOVE, is a seat in a recess, formed of stone, brick, or other dead material, and so constructed as to shel- ter the party seated from the north and other colder quarters, whilst it is open in front to the south. ALDER. Alnus. ALETRIS. Two species. Hardy herbaceous plants. Offsets. Peat or leaf soil. ALEURITES. Two species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loamy soil. ALEXANDRIAN LAUREL. Rus- cus Racemosus. ALHAGI. Manna. Two species. Green-house plants. Young cuttings or seed. Sandy loam and peat. ‘“* ALKALI, in chemistry; from the Arabian kali, the name of a plant from the ashes of which one species of alkali ean be extracted. The true alkalies have been arranged by a modern che- mist in three classes:—1, those which consist of a metallic basis, combined with oxygen; these are three in num- ber—potash, soda and lithia; 2, that which contains no oxygen, viz., ammo- nia; 3, those containing oxygen, hydro- gen and carbon; in this class are placed aconita, atropia, brucia, cicuts, datura, delphia, hyoscyamia, morphia, strych- nia. And itis supposed that the vege- table alkalies may be found to be as nu- merous as the vegetable acids. The original distribution of alkaline sub- stances was into volatile and fixed, the volatile alkali being known under the fixed kinds, one was called potash or vegetable, because procured from ‘the ashes of vegetables generally; the other, soda or mineral, on account of its hav- ing been principally obtained from the incineration of marine plants.?’—Encyc. Am. The sulphate of ammonia has been used with success as a stimulant to vegetable growth—and is now prepared and sold by chemists for that purpose. ALLAMANDA cathartica. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich loamy soil. ALLANTODIA. Five species. Green-house herbaceous plants. Di- vision. Loamy peat. ALLEYS are of twokinds. 1. The narrow walks which divide the com- partments of the kitchen garden ; and 2. Narrow walks in shrubberies and pleasure-grounds, closely bounded and overshadowed by the shrubs and trees. ALLIONIA. Three species. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Sandy peat or loam. ALLIUM. Garlic or onion tribe. 126 species. Hardy bulbous plants, Offsets or seed. Common soil. ALLSEED. Polycarpon. ALLSPICE. Calycanthus. ALLSPICE-TREE. Pimenta. ALMOND. — Coze. Ruope Istanp GREENING. — Core. (Fig. 12.) A well known variety, ex- tensively disseminated throughout the Atlantic States. The size is large; outline round; skin of a yellowish green; sometimes, though very sel- dom of a faint blush-like hue towards the stem. The flesh is crisp, abounding in juice, finely flavoured; stem short. Calyx rather small for so large an ap- ple, and placed in a shallow basin. In ~ season from October to January, some- times later. APP 50 ——s Fig. 10.—(P. 49.) _New Eneranp Russet. Boston or Roxbury Russet or Russeting. (Fig. 13.) This is claimed as a native of Massachusetts, and is held throughout New England in high repute. It is usually considered the best of its class popularly termed ‘‘leather-coats.”? The size is full medium; form irregularly round, flattened at both stem and blos- som end. When fully ripe of a russet hue, occasionally with indications of blush. It is in season at mid-winter, but may be kept till May or June; in- deed they may be seen sometimes in APP. July. This property of long keeping in connection with its productive habit, has secured it great popularity. YELLoOw Newtown Pirrin. (Fig. 14.) ‘¢ This is in most of its varieties the finest apple of our country, and probably of the world. It varies much in quality, with soil, aspect, cultivation, climate and age. The form is rather flat, the size large, the skin a greenish yellow, with black clouds, and fre- quently with red spots or blotches. It ripens in November, and is often kept till May and June. It will produce fine ee APP 51 ——o—— Fig. 11.—(P. 49.) APP apples on even a light sandy soil, aided by the application of river or meadow mud as a manure, two or three cart loads to a tree.””—Coze. Wine Aprre. (Fig. 15.) This isa well known variety in Philadelphia. It is unusually Jarge, and attractive from its beautifully fair and handsome ap- pearance. The outline is round, rather flattened at the poles; prevailing colour red, shaded and spotted with yellow. Stalk quite short, never rising to the crown of the fruit, which is occasion- ally of a russet hue, Calyx large and deeply seated, ripe in October, and in eating through the antumn and winter. It is equally adapted to the table, kitchen and press. The habit of the tree is open, growth large and hand- some. Esopus SprrzEnBuRG. Thomp. Lind. Ken. (Fig. 16.) There are but few, very few apples to which higher rank is awarded than to this variety, which has the rare advantage of beauty and good- ness combined. It is said to have origi- nated at Au’sopus on the Hudson river. The size full medium, with an oblong out- line. Skin fair and smooth, ofa fine clear red, in some specimens ofa brilliant hue — on the sunny side, the opposite of a yel- lowish cast. Flesh yellow, and in the lan- guage of Coxe, ‘singularly rich, juicy and sprightly.?? Stem of medium length, well planted. Calyx in a shallow depression. In season November to February. Katcun’s Spirzensure. Coze. (Fig. 17.) This variety takes its name from the original cultivator, the late Joseph Kaighn, of Kaighn’s Point, New Jersey. 4 Fig. 12.—(P. 49.) - ' H Y VN \i { ij \ i A ) WSs Gy HN \ YX Ss Fig. 13.—(P.50.) APP APP fC Fig. 14.—(P. 50.) It somewhat resembles the Esopus Spitzenburg. Colour bright red, deli- cately streaked and marked by white dots, which strongly characterize it. Skin smooth; flesh juicy and well flavoured; stem rather long, deeply seated; blossom end frequently more pointed than in the drawing. . Propagation by seed.—When it is in- tended to raise stocks to be engrafted, the only matter to be observed in se- lecting the seed is, that it be from vigo- rous healthy trees. Keep the seed in sand, or earth moderately damp,’during autumn and winter, and sow quite early in the spring, and in drills, so as to ad- mit of more easy culture. The second season the young stocks may be trans- planted, .and again the third season, (each transplantation tending to secure success on the final transfer to the or- chard ground.) When three years old, to reach results is to. graft a shoot of the seedling in a branch of a vigorous tree. The second season fruit may be obtained, especially if the shoot is bent downwards, or inclined, so as to arrest the free flow of sap, which would rather tend to preserve wood than fruit. By this means curiosity can be early satis- fied, and those which prove worthless, by far the larger portion, cast out as cumberers of the ground. Mr. Knight states that ‘* the width ‘and thickness of the leaf generally in- dicates the size of the future apple, but will by no means convey any correct idea of the merits of the future fruit. ‘¢ When these have the character of high cultivation, the qualities of the fruit will be far removed from those of the native species; but the apple may be insipid or highly flavoured, green or | deeply coloured, and of course well or they will be, if well managed, stout | ill-calculated to answer the purposes of stocks, ready for grafting. Where the objectis to produce new varieties, select the seed from favourite fruits and sow as above directed. If it be the purpose to allow the seed- lings to bear, they may be suffered to remain where they have first grown, or the planter. An early blossom in the spring, and an early change of colour in the autumnal leaf, would naturally be supposed to indicate a fruit of early maturity, but I have never been able to discover any criterion of this kind on which the smallest dependence may be they may be transplanted to any other| placed. The leaves of some varieties position. But a more speedy method will become yellow and fall off, leaving APP 54 BPFt SSS Fig. 15.—(P. 51.) the fruit green and immature; and the leaves in other kinds will retain their verdure long after the fruit has perished. The plants whose buds in the annual wood are full and prominent are usually more productive than those whose buds are small and shrunk in the bark ; but their future produce will depend much on the power the blossoms possess of bearing the cold, and this power varies in the varieties, and can only be known from experience. Those which pro- duce their leaves and blossoms rather early in the spring are generally to be preferred, for, though they are more exposed to injury from frost, they less fre- quently suffer from the attacks of insects —the more common cause of ailure. The disposition to vegetate early or late in the spring, is, like almost every other quality in the apple tree, trans- ferred in different degrees to its off- spring; and the planter must therefore seek those qualities in the parent tree which he wishes to find in the future seedling plants. The best method I have been able to discover of obtaining such fruits as vegetate very early in the spring, has been by introducing the farina of the Siberian Crab into the bles- som of a rich and early apple, and by transferring, in the same manner, the farina of the apple to the blossom of the Siberian Crab. The leaf and the habit ¢ APP 55 ene Fig. 16.—(P. 51.) PPR of many of the plants that I have thus obtained, possess much of the character of the apple, whilst they vegetate as early in the spring as the crab of Sibe- ria, and possess at least an equal power of bearing cold; and I possess two plants of the family which are quite as hardy as the most austere crab of our woods.’? By cuttings.—All the varieties may be raised in this mode, though some, as the Burr-knot, Codling, and June- eating, more readily than others. Trees so raised are’said to be not so liable as their parents to canker. take cuttings of young shoots from some of the horizontal branches, about eight inches long, cutting off a portion of the old wood of the branch attached to the shoot; remove all the buds except the upper three. Plant these firmly in sandy loam, giving water and covering with a hand-glass until the cuttings have well vegetated. Shade from the mid- day sun; remove the hand-glass in Au- In February gust; and remove the plants into the nursery early in November. Sotl.—The most favourable soil is a strong loam, two feet deep, ona dry subsoil, thoroughly drained, for stag- nant root moisture induces canker and moss. Planting .—The soil should be trench- ed, and some cultivators place imme- diately beneath each tree, according to the extent of its roots, chalk, stones, or brick-bats rammed so as to forma kind of pavement to direct the roots horizontally. Plant so that the roots nearest the surface are twelve inches below it. Espaliers.—In America the apple is seldom trained as an Espalier, though they might thus be cultivated in gar- dens of limited extent, and in some cases serve a double purpose, affording shade and fruit. When first planted the young plant is cut down to within about a foot of the ground, and only three shoots permitted to spring from it, AJP. FP 56 APP —— Fig. 17.—(P .51.) one of which will be the leader, and the others will form the first or lower tier of bearing branches, which are to be secured to small stakes, so as to keep them in their proper places. The following season the upright leader must be shortened to nine inches or a foot above the two horizontal branches, and deprived of all its shoots excepting the three uppermost, which are to be treated the same as before. In this way the leading shoot is to be stopped at the requisite distance above the horizontal ones, unti] it has reached the height of five feet. It is then cut off, and no more allowed to grow up- right, the whole strength of the tree being directed to the fruiting branches. —Gard. Chron. Espalier apple trees should be at not less than twenty feet distance ; but five- and-thirty feet is better, especially for trees grafted on crab or apple stocks, which are free shooters ; for trees graft- ed on codlin and paradise stocks eigh- teen or twenty feet may be a sufficient distance. They should be planted with their heads entire, only removing any very irregular growths that do not range consistent with the intended form, and pruning any broken roots. Let al] the branches be trained horizontally to the right and left, an equal number on each side, all at full length, five or six inches asunder, and, according as they shoot in summer, still continue them along entire. At the same time train in a further supply of new shoots, to increase the number of horizontals or bearers, and thus continue increasing their num- bers every year, till the espalier is regularly filled from the bottom to top, preserving all the branches at full length, as far as the allotted space will admit. 5 They must have a summer and a winter pruning annually; in the sum- |mer cut out all the superfluous and ill- placed shoots of the year, and train regular ones towards the lower parts in vacant spaces, at least to remain till winter, some of which may be then wanted to fill some unforeseen vacancy, clearing out all others at this time as peskoceioag APP close as possible. And in winter, if any worn out or decayed parts appear, then is the time to retrench them, re- taining young branches in their places, and if any vacancy occurs, retain some contiguous young shoot to fill it. Cut clean out close to the branches, still continuing all the branches, and any occasional supply of shoots, at full length, as far as their limited bounds will allow; then train the whole regu- larly, tying them in as straight and close to the railing as possible, about six inches asunder. Standards, or Orchard Trees.—The standards having been trained in the nursery with tolerably good heads, they should be planted with those heads en- tire; if any are intended for the kitchen garden, plant them at least furty feet distance; and, for a full plantation, to form an orchard, allow thirty feet dis- tance every way. Trim any broken roots, but leave all the others entire. As soon as planted, let every one be well staked, to support them firmly up- right, and prevent their being disturbed in rooting by winds. Smaller growing standards, such as codlins and dwarfs upon paradise stocks, may, if required, be planted only at twenty feet distance, though, if there is room to allow a greater distance, it will be the greater advantage. Let them also, in future, advance with all their branches at full length, taking their own natural growth, and they will soon form numerous natural spurs in every part for bearing. With respect to pruning these stand- ards very little is required, probably not more than once in several years, and then only the retrenching any very irregular cross-placed bough, or reduc- ing to order any very long rambler; or when the head is become greatly crowd- ed and confused, to thin out some of the most irregular growth, likewise all strong shoots growing upright in the 57 APR middle of the head, and all dead wood and suckers from the stem and root. Some persons, however, prefer more pruning, and Mr. Clarke, gardener to the Earl of Lonsdale, says, ‘* My sea- son for pruning commences as soon as the fruit is taken off the trees, and con- tinues to the middle of March; during that time cut out all the ill-placed shoots, such as incline to grow towards the centre, or into each other, and leave untouched all those that stand in such a way that the tree will form a cup, or something like a wel] blown tulip, all the branches standing perfectly clear of each other, so that they will bear fruit on the inside, the sun and air get- , ting to all parts of the tree alike. Keep fruit trees as low as possible; this may be done by removing a limb when it is likely to get over tall, leaving a young shoot at a proper place to succeed it. The apple is in America a hardy robust tree, and succeeds admirably through- out the middle and western states, though it were desirable it should re- ceive more attention than is frequently bestowed onit. Its principal enemy is the ** Borer,’ (Saperda bivittata), which deposits its eggs in the body of the tree near the ground. The insects perforate the wood, causing disease, and if un- disturbed ultimately death. The reme- dy is the frequent use of pliant wire thrust into the wound, so as to pierce the grub; a mound of ashes around the trunk is beneficial—alkali being ex- tremely offensive to insects. For full directions as to the manage- ment of apple trees see the ** Fruzt Cul- turist,?? by Thomas. ‘* Fruits of Ame- rica,?? by Downing. ‘* Kenrick’s Or- chardist.?? APPLE-BARK BEETLE. Bostri- chus. APRICOT, (Armeniaca vulgaris.) Varietics.—The following list is from the catalogue of D. Landreth and Fui- ton, Philadelphia ;:— ? APR 58 APR —_e—- Color. Db y- yellow. Size. | Season of Name. 0. orange.| Form. |M. medium.| § | ripening | Remarks. r. red. L. large. @ at Philad. 1. Roman. y- oblong} mM. 2, Aug. |Very produc- Abricot Commun. tive and ex- Large French. cellent. 2. Breda. oO. round M. 1| Aug. |Highly flavor- Holland. led, produc- Brussels. tive. 3. Large Early. oO. oblong te 1; July. |Excellent. 4. Moor Park. o.r. round Ee 1) Aug Considered Abricot Peche. the finest. De Nancy. 5. Masculine Red. o.r M. 2| July. |Earliest. Early Red Masculine. Brown Masculine. 6. Orange. O. round M. 2, Aug. Abundant Royal Persian. : bearer, good Early Orange. flavor. 7. Peach: o.r. - |round ss 1; Aug. Good and De Nancy. / productive. Latimer’s Peach. 8. Turkey. y- round ie 1; Aug. Large Turkey. Propagation is best done by budding on a plum or peach stock in August or September, as the state of the wood may make expedient. European gardeners usually, for dwarfs, bud at eight inches from the ground; for half-standards at three feet; and for standards at five feet. But that is un- the tree may adapt it to the required purpose. With us it is the general practice to bud near the ground, and the usage would imply the practice has proved correct. Planting.—The best plants are with one stem, free from gum, clean barked; and the more vigorous the better. They may be safely transplanted at any time in autumn after vegetation has ceased, until the buds are about to expand in spring. Aspect.—An eastern or western wall is best; for on a south aspect the fruit becomes mealy even before it is ripe. A northern exposure sometimes proves most successful, as the bloom is late, and escapes frost, which is fatal to those in more sheltered situations. As a standard, the apricot is some years be- fore it bears, but it is then very prolific and high flavored. Soil—The usual mellow loam of gardens is well suited to the apricot; but its roots should be kept at less than eighteen inches from the surface, and the border be well drained. Training.—The branches should be on an average six inches apart, and kept as horizontal as possible. The nearer the form can be kept to the fol- | lowing (Fig. 18) the better, unless the important, the subsequent treatment of | tree be weak, in which case the Fig. 18. branches may be trained a little more ~ vertical. Pruning must be regulated by the knowledge that, with the exception of the Moor Park, each variety bears chiefly on the shoots of the previous APR 59 3 APR —_¢—— years. The Moor Park mostly on spurs upon two and three years’ old branches. - Summer Pruning.—Take off all fore- right shootsand others that are irregular and misplaced ; reserving those that are vigorous and that will train in well for next year’s bearing. If done early in May the finger and thumb will super- sede the knife for this pruning. Con- tinue to nail the shoots to the wall as necessary during all the summer. Over- vigorous shoots may be topped in June, and-be thus induced to put forth more fertile laterals. Winter Pruning had best be done as soon as the leaves have fallen, though it may be carried on until the buds be- gin to swell in March. Cut out the most naked of the two previous years’ shoots, and old branches not well sup- plied with young wood, to have their places re-occupied by younger and bet- ter branches. Keep a leading shoot at the end of each branch. Vigorous shoots of the last year shorten about one-eighth—weaker shoots about one- half. This promotes the production of laterals for next year’s fruiting, and gives a fuller supply of sap to the blos- som buds; but if the shortening is too great, the latter will be converted to leaf-buds. Cut off all fore-right spurs; but lateral spurs may be retained, as they sometimes produce blossom buds, as they always do in the Moor Park. Espaliers are to be formed as those on walls, and standards only require dead, crowded, or chaffing branches to be removed. When an apricot gets old and dis- eased, it is much more profitable to re- place it by a younger, than to attempt its renovation. Gathering should take place before the fruit is quite ripe, or it will be mealy. Thinning, as soon as the fruit is large enough for tarts, in May or early in June, should be boldly done, no fruit being left nearer than six inches to another. Insects.—Wasps and flies are best kept off by a net, not nearer than a foot to the wall. Mildew is often the most formidable assailant of the apricot, as it usually arises from excess of moisture to the root; draining the border, and mixing lime with the.soil, will be in such case found efficacious as a preventive, and at the time a syringing with water containing one-eighth of gas ammonia- cal liquor. APRIL. In this fickle month the sheltering of wall fruit requires particu- lar attention. Easterly blighting winds always prevail towards its close, and early in May. The work required to be attended to in the various departments in the lati- tude of Philadelphia, is as follows. It should be performed early or later as we reside south or north of that lati- tude :— KITCHEN GARDEN. Alexanders, sow.—Angelica, sow.— Artichokes, plant, b. or dress.— Aspara- gus, sow, plant, force, and dress beds. —Balm, plant.—Basil, sow.—Beans, sow, hoe.—Beets, sow, b.—Borecole, sow, prick out, leave for seed.—Bro- coli, sow. — Borage, sow. — Burnets, sow, and plant.—Cabbages, sow, plant. —Capsicum, sow.— Cardoons, sow.— Carraway, sow.—Carrots, sow, weed. — Cauliflowers, late, sow in open ground, b.—Celery, sow, leave for seed. —Chamomile, plant.—Chives, plant.— Chervil, sow, leave for seed.—Cole- worts, plant.—Clary, sow.—Cress, sow. —Cucumbers, sow.—Dill, sow.—Earth- ing-up, attend to.— Fennel, sow or plant.—Finochio, sow.—Garlic, plant, b.—Horse-radish, plant, b. — Hotbeds, make and attend.—Hyssop, sow, plant. —Jerusalem Artichokes, plant, b.—Kale (Sea), sow and plant, b.; dress beds.— Kidney beans (dwarfs), sow ; (runners), sow, e.—Lavender, plant.—Leeks, sow, b. e.3 leave for seed.—Letiuces, sow weekly; plant from frames.—Marigolds, sow. — Marjorams, sow and plant.— Melons, sow.— Mustard and Cress, sow; leave for seed.—Mushroom beds, make; attend to.—Mint, plant.— Nas- turtiums, sow. — Onions, sow, b. e.;3 weed ; plant and for seed ; (Potatoe and Tree), plant, b.—Parsley, sow ; leave for seed ; (Hamburgh), sow.—Parsnips, sow, b.; hand weed.—Peas, sow ; hoe; stick.—Penny-royal, plant.—Pompions, sow, b.—Potatoes, plant; attend forc- ing.—Purslane, sow.—Radishes, sow ; thin.—Rape, sow.—Rocambole, plant.— Rue, plant.—Salsafy and Savory, sow, e.—Scorzonera and Skirrets, sow, e.— Shailots and Sage, plant, b.--Sorrels,sow and plant.—Spznach, sow; thin; leave for seed.— Tansy and Tarragon, plant. —Thyme, sow and plant.—Tomatos, 7 APR 60 sow.—Turnips, sow, b. e.; plant and for seed.— Turnip Cabbage, sow. — Wormwoods, sow. ORCHARD. Apples may be planted.—Blossoms of wall fruit, protect.—Budded (Trees), last summer, remove insects from buds, and shoots from stocks below.—Cherries may be planted.—Disbud wall trees of superfluous buds. — Forcing fruits, in hot-house, attend to.—Grafting (late kinds of apples, pears, and plums), may bedone still, b.—Grafts, lately inserted, see that the clay is firm, and rub off) shoots below the scion.—Heading down wall and espalier trees, finish, b, if not done last month.—Insects, search for and destroy.—Lime (early in the morn- ing), dust over the leaves of trees infest- | ed by caterpillars. — Liquid Manure, give to trees newly planted.—Mulch round the roots.— Peaches may be planted. — Pears may be planted. — Piums may be planted.—Propagating | by layers, cuttings, suckers, and seed, finish, b.—Pruning, finish, b.; stop -young shoots. — Stake trees newly planted.—Strawberries, water daily in dry weather those in bloom, if dry.— | Vines, propagate by layers and cut- tings, b.; summer dress; in vineyard stake and hoe frequently ; old borders manure.—Walil-fruit, thin generally.— Wasps, destroy; every one now killed prevents a nest. FLOWER GARDEN. Annuals (Tender), prick out those sown in February and March into a hot- bed; water often; sow in hotbed; (Hardy), may be sown in borders, &c., to remain; thin those advancing.—Au- riculas in bloom, shelter. (See Hya- cinth.) .Supply with-water often ; those | for seed plunge pots in a sheltered bor- der, where they can-have sun until ele- | ven o’clock; plant offsets; propagate by slips; seedlings shade during mid- day.— Anemones and Auriculas done | flowering, take up and separate offsets. —Bor edgings may be made, and old taken up, slipped and replanted.—Bien- nials, finish sowing, b.; plant out those | sown last spring. — Bulbs, in water | glasses, done flowering, plantin ground after cutting down stalks ; autumn flow- ering, take up and store, ready for planting in July; spring flowering, re- APR move from borders to some place where |they can complete their vegetation ; their decayed leaves are unsightly.— Carnations, in pots, give liquid manure, |and water often; stir the earth; sow, |e.; plant into borders, b.—Climbing |plants, train and regulate.—Dahlias, |plant to remain, b., or in pots to for- /ward in a frame until May.—Dress the |borders, &c., indefatigably. — Ever- | greens, plant, b.; it is the best season. | —Frames, raise, by supporters at the bottom, as the plants within grow tall. —Roll; trim edges; dress with earth if _poor.—Gravel, turn and lay afresh in dry weather ; roll once a week.—Hya- cinths, shelter. from sun by an awning or matting over the beds, from nine to four; give the same shelter in bad wea- ther day and night; those done flower- ing take up ; separate offsets and store. _—Insects, destroy with tobacco smoke or dusting of Scotch snuff.—Mignonette, sow in any warm border.—Mulch, put round trees newly planted. — Pinks, sow.—Polyanthuses, sow; plant out and propagate by offsets, b.; last year’s seedlings now in bloom, mark best for | propagating.—Potted Plants, give fresh earth to, if not done last month; shift into larger; water freely.—Perennials, those sown last spring may still be planted, and propagated by offsets; finish sowing.—Sticks are required to blooming plants.—Tulips, take off pods to strengthen bulbs.—Watering plants in pots is now required more frequent- ly, yet moderately ; give it early in the morning. HOT-HOUSE. Air, admit freely during the day.— Bark Beds, renew if not done in March. —Figs, first crop ripening, require abundant light; syringe to destroy red spider; give little water, and air freely. —Flowering Plants in pots, for succes- | sion, continue to introduce.—Grafting | flowering stove plants is worthy of prac- tice, either to get dwarfs or taller spe- cimens.—Insects, destroy by tobacco | fumes. — Leaves, clean occasionally, either with the sponge or syringe.—Li- quid Manure, apply to fruiting vines and other plants requiring vigour.—Mush- room House, keep air in moist; wood- lice destroy.— Orchidacee, shade.—Pot- ted Plants, shift into larger as required. —Pines, continue to treat as in March; shade during bright sun; those shifted ' aaihe AQU 61 AQU -_———o——_ in that month or February shift again, e.; suckers remove; plant crowns.— Propagate by layers, suckers, cuttings, and seed, according to the plants’ ha- bits.—Red Spider is now apt to prevail ; put sulphur upon the flues to drive away.— Steam, admit frequently into house.—Syringe every plant that will bear the treatment to prevent the Red Spider.— Vines, treat as last month; thin grapes, and tie up shoulders of the bunches; water abundantly ; remove superfluous shoots, e.; temp. about 750 ; in the late green-houses, train up the rafters.— Water requires to be given oftener; sprinkle frequently about the house, and keep the pans full. GREEN-HOUSE. Air, admit daily, as weather permits. _—Camellias, sow and graft.—Earth in pots stir frequently ; and add fresh if not done in March.—Greenjfly or Aphis usually indicates the house has been kept too cold.—Hardiest Plants keep in coldest parts of house, near the ventilators.—Head-down irregular grow- ing shrubs,—Heat.s increase if neces- sary.—Inarch shrubby exotics.—Leaves and Wood decayed, remove as they ap- pear; clean with sponge or syringe.— Liquid Manureapply to sickly shrubs.— Potted Plants, shift as they require room; and water immediately.—Pro- pagate by seeds, cuttings, inarching, and other modes, as the species permit. —Prune or Pinch off free growing shoots, to make shrubby growths.— Succulent plants shift; plant cuttings and suckers.—Water often, guided al- ways by the plant’s habits. AQUARIUM is the place devoted to the cultivation of aquatic or water plants. The majority of those culti- vated are exotic, and require the pro- tection of glass. If there are only a few of these they may be successfully grown in cisterns placed in a stove; but if the collection be extensive, it re- quires a separate edifice. The tank system of heating by hot water offers a very superior mode of keeping the wa- ter at a fitting temperature. The leaden cistern in which the plants are sub- merged may rest readily upon the slates forming the cover of the tank. Mr. Loudon recommends an aqua- rium to be thus constructed: ‘* The cistern to be close under the front glass, and have that glass rather flat, say at an agle of fifteen degrees, or two cis- terns might be formed, one in the back part of the house for tall plants, and the other in front, for plants with floating foliage, with a broad path between. But the most elegant plan would be to have a circular house, having glass on all sides, to have a cistern in the centre for river plants, and a surround- ing cistern for those which grow in stagnant water. To imitate the effect of the motion of water in the central cistern, the mould or pots in which the plants grow might be placed on a bot- tom, apart from that of the cistern, and this bottom being on the end of an up- right shaft, might, by the aid of proper machinery in a vault below, be kept in perpetual circular motion. Those plants which grow naturally in rapid streams, might be planted or placed on the circumference of the bottom, and those requiring less agitation towards its centre. If reversed motion was re- quired to imitate tides, (where marine aquatics were cultivated,) nothing could be easier than by the sort of wheel used in the patent mangle to produce it to any extent, or by another still more simple plan known to every engineer, it might be changed seldomer, say only once or twice in twenty-four hours. If a rapid and tortuous motion was re- quired, then let the bottom on which the plants are piaced be furnished with small circular wheels placed on its mar- gin working on pivots, and furnished on their edges with teeth like a spur wheel. Then let there be a correspond- ing row of teeth fixed to the inside of the wall, or side of the cistern, into which they are to work, like a wheel and pinion. << By this means pots of plants set on the small wheels will have a compound motion, one round the centre of the small wheels, and another round that of the large bottom, something of the na- ture of the planetary motion, but more like that of the waltz dance. It is al- most needless to add, that exotic aqua- tic fowls and fishes might be kept in such an aquarium, and either of the sea or fresh water rivers, according as salt water or fresh was used. It may be thought by some that the machinery would be intricate and troublesome ; but the power requisite is so very small, that it might easily be obtained by ma- chinery on the principle of the wind-up AQU 62 —_>——__ jack, such as is used by Deacon in his| bined with the culture of OrcHrDEoUs ventilating Eolians. | Prants see the latter title. ‘¢ This kind of mechanism very sel-| Hardy Aquatics require an aquarium dom goes out of order or requires re-| proportioned to the size of the rest of pairs, and would require no other atten- | the pleasure grounds; and that its bot- tion than being wound up’ twice in tom be rendered retentive of water by twenty-four hours, and oiled occasion-| puddling with clay. Its sides should be ally. The same vault that contained it sloping, and cut into terraces, so as to might serve for the furnace or boiler! be suited to the various heights of the for heating the house.*»—-Gard. Enc. _| plants, and its margins should be form- The following are aquatic stove | €d of rough stones and fragments of ARB plants :— rock, a erg marsh plants will aye grow luxuriantly. PpOngeer: spgueutoue- AQUEDUCT, a conveyance of any monostachyon | kind for conducting water. The Ro- Arum venosum. Cyperus alternifolius. — papyrus. Damasonium indicum. Euryale ferox. Menyanthes indica. ovata. Nelumbium speciosum. Nympheza cerulea. lotus. — pubescens. pygmza. rubra. stellata. versicolor. Philydrum lanuginosum. Pontederia cordata. dilatata. Sagittaria lancifolia. obtusifolia. Thalia dealbata. Propagation and culture——Being all herbaceous plants, they are to be pro- pagated as these generally are; some are raised from seeds, which, in gene- ral, should be sown as soon as ripe, and the pots plunged in shallow water; when the plants come up they may be transplanted into other pots, and shifted as they advance in growth, till in a pot of sufficient size to admit their flower- ing, which will generally take place the same season. Instead of being kept in pots, the plants may be inserted in a_ bed of earth on the bottom of the aqua- rium. Keep the water warm, say from 70° to 75° in summer, and leave them nearly dry in winter. Nelumbium spe- ciosum requires a water heat of 84°. | mans made prodigious structures of this | kind; some are still in use, others, ma | state of decay, are among the greatest | ornaments of Italy. In landscape gar- |dening, the aqueduct enables the ope- |rator to produce a fine effect, where the |absence of water would render the | scene tame and uninteresting. AQUILARIA malaccensis. Stove | evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and eat. AQUILEGIA, Columbine. Seven- teen species, and many varieties. Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Common soil. ARABIS. Thirty-one species, and some varieties. Hardy herbaceous and evergreen. Seeds or cuttings. Light soil. ARACHIS jAypogea. Stove annual. Seed. Sandy loam. ARALIA. Eighteen species. Chiefly stove evergreens, but a few hardy or 'green-house plants. Cuttings. Common _ soil. ARAUCARIA. Three species. Co- |/niferous green-house trees. Rich light 'soil. Cuttings planted in sand in Au- 'gust take freely. Cover with a bell- glass, and place ina cold frame or pit. Exclude frost and damp. In spring give a little bottom heat. Plants thus raised never form good leading shoots. | —Gard. Chron. | ARBORETUM isa collection of trees and shrubs capable of enduring expo- sure to our climate. These are usually -arranged in genera according to their -precedence in the alphabet; or in groups conformably to the Jussieuean Cyperus, Papyrus, Nelumbium, Nym-| system; and whichever is adopted it is phea, Limnocharis, Hydrocharis, Sagit- | quite compatiple with an attention to taria, and Pentederia, will furnish va- | facility of access by means of walks, as riety enough. Stove for aquatics—For one com- well as to picturesque effect. It is an evil growing out of the fre- ARB quent change in the ownership of es- tates, that most proprietors are indis- posed to plant for posterity; conse- quently we see but few grounds laid out with a view to permanent improve- ment. Those who plant are anxious themselves to reap the fruits of their exertions, not knowing, and conse- quently careless, who shall succeed them—where landed property is, by entail, transmitted from generation to generation, family pride, and the love of distinction, ensure every improve- ment being made in a permanent form —thus have been created the magnifi- cent parks of Europeans, and their stately mansions. Our American sys- tem deprives us of such monuments of taste—but we can bear the deprivation, seeing the greater good produced there- > id ARBOUR is a seat shaded by trees. Sometimes these are trained over a wooden or iron trellis-work, mingled with the everlasting sweet pea, clema- tis, and other climbing odorous plants. When the trellis-work is complicated and the structure more elaborate, with a preponderance of the climbers al- ready named, together with the honey- suckle, &c., they are described as French or Italian arbours. ARBOR VITA, Thuja. ARBUTUS, Strawberry tree. Four- teen species, and a few varieties. Ever- green shrubs, chiefly hardy in Great Britain, but require shelter in the Mid- dle States. Layers, budding, inarch- ing, and seed. Loam and peat. ARCHANGEL, Lamium. ARCHITECTURE. Rural architect- ure has been greatly improved within the last quarter of a century. Much greater attention is now paid to the structure of garden and farm buildings, and the do- mestic comfort of those employed in rural labour. There is of consequence an elevation of taste, and conduct, and beneficial results to all concerned. In England, Loudon has laboured to this end with great success, and his Ency- clopedia of Villa and Cottage Architec- ture, is a monument to his industry and indomitable energy. Downing, in this country, has followed the path so plainly marked by Loudon, and pro- duced a volume, which cannot but re- fine the taste, and correct much that offends the eye. 63 ARM ARCTOSTAPHYLOS. Four species. Hardy trees, raised like the Argurtus. ARCTOTHECA. Two species. Green-house herbaceous. Division. Loam and peat. ARCTOTIS. Thirty-one species. Chiefly green-house evergreens. A. vir- gata is a hardy annual. ARCUATION. The same as LAYER- ING. ARDISIA. Twenty-five species. Stove or green-house evergreen shrubs. An ornamental genus of plants much valued by collectors for the beauty of their foliage and berries. They are of easy culture. Cuttings of branches or roots. Loam and peat. ARDUINA hispinosa. evergreen shrub. Cuttings. loam. ARECA. Tenspecies. Stove palms. Green-house Peat and Seeds. Sandy loam. AREMONIA agrimonoides. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Common soil. ARETHUSA. Two species. Ten- der orchids. Division. Moist peat and loam. ARETIA. Five species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Sandy loam and peat. ARGANIA syderorylon Stove ever- greentree. Layers or cuttings. Com- mon soil. ARGEMONE. Five species. Hardy plants. Suckers. Common soil. ARGYREIA. Eight species. Stove evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Light rich soil. ARISTEA. Five species. Green- house herbaceous. Seed or division. Loam and peat. ARISTOLOCHIA. Thirty-six species. Hardy, green-house and stove. Seve- ral species are Americans. A. labiosa, from Brazil, is a very curious plant. A. serpentaria (the root of) is said to be the substance which the Egyptian Snake-jugglers chew for the purpose of stupifying the snakes, by the introduc- tion of their saliva into the reptiles’ mouths. Cuttings. Rich sandy loam and peat. ARISTOTELIA macqui. Hardy evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Common soil. ARMENIACA. Four species. Hardy fruit trees. Budding on plum-stocks. Rich loam. See Apricot. ARMERIA. Nineteen species. Hardy herbaceous, except A. fascicu- CN ARN 64 ART —— lata, which is a green-house evergreen. Division. Richlight soil. See Thrift. ARNOPOGON. Four species. Hardy | annuals. Seed. Common soil. ARTABOTRYS odoratissima. Stove | evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. ARTANEMA (fimbriatum. Hardy evergreen shrub. Seed. Loam and peat. | ARTEMISIA, Wormwood. Forty- | seven species. Seed. Division and cuttings. Mostly hardy and herbaceous. | ARTHROPODIUM. Five species. Green-house herbaceous. Division or seed. Sandy loam and peat. ARTHROSTEMMA. Two species.. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Loam and peat. ARTICHOKE, (Cynara scolymus.) Soil and situation.—The finest heads | are produced ina soil abounding in) moisture, but in such they will not sur- vive the winter. To enable them to} survive the winter, those for the supply | of suckers, as well as those for the last- | ing production, must have a rich loam | allotted to them. Manure must be applied every spring; and the best compost for them is a mixture of three parts well putrefied dung, and one part) of fine coal-ashes. They should always) have an open exposure, and above all be free from the influence of trees; for if) beneath their shade or drip, the plants | spindle, and produce worthless heads. | Time and mode of planting.—lIt is propagated by suckers, which are an-| nually afforded by the parent plants in the spring. These must be slipped off in March or early in April, when eight | or ten inches in height, with as much | of their fibrous roots pertaining as pos- | sible. Such of them should be selected | as are sound and not woody. The) brown hard part by which they are| attached to the parent stem must be| removed, and if that cuts crisp and | tender, it is tough and stringy, and is| worthless. Further, to prepare them | for planting, the large outside leaves are taken off so low as that the heart | appears above them. If they have been | some time separated from the stock, or | if the weather is dry, they are greatly | invigorated by being set in water for | three or four hours, before they are. planted. They should be set in rows) four feet and a half by three feet apart, | and about half their length beneath the | surface. Water them abundantly every | e evening until they are established, as well as during the droughts of summer. The only other attention they require | during the summer, is the frequent use of the hoe. They produce heads the same year, from July to October, and will continue to do so annually, from May until June or July. As often asa head is cut, the stem must be broken down close to the root, to encourage the production of suckers before the arrival of winter. In November or December, they should receive their winter’s dressing. The old leaves being cut away without injuring the centre or side shoots, the ground must be dug over, and part of the soil thrown into a moderate ridge over each row, it being put close about the plants, but the hearts left clear. Each plant must be closed round with long litter, or pea haulm: it is, however, a very erroneous practice to apply stable dung imme- diately over the plants previous to earthing them up, as it in general in- duces decay. As soon as February commences, all covering of this descrip- tion must be removed. In March, or as soon as the shoots appear four or five inches above the surface, the ridges thrown up in the winter must be levelled, and all the earth removed from about the stock to below the part from whence the young shoots spring. Of these remove all but two or at most three of the straightest and most _ vigorous, care being taken to select |from those which proceed from the under part of the stock: the strong thick ones proceeding from its crown having hard woody stems, and are pro- ductive of indifferent heads. Although the artichoke in a suitable soil is a perennial, yet after the feurth or fifth year the heads become smaller and drier. The beds, in consequence, are usually broken up after the lapse of this period, and fresh ones formed on another site. The artichoke’s heads are made to attain a much larger size than they would otherwise by twisting a ligature _very tightly round the stem, about three | inches below each; and thus preventing the reflux of the sap. No vegetable is more benefitted than the artichoke by the application of sea- weed or any other manure containing common salt. To obtain chards.—After the best ART 65 ASI ———— heads have been cut, early in July the leaves are to be cut over within half a foot of the ground; and the stems as) low as possible. In September or Oc- tober, when the new shoots or leaves” are about two feet high, they are bound | close with a wreath of hay or straw, | and earth or litter is drawn round the | stems of the plants. The blanching is perfected in a month -or six weeks. If the chardsare wished late in the winter, | the whole plants may be dug up before | frost sets in, and laid in sand in their | blanched state. In this way they may be kept for several weeks. Gobbo.—** The stem of an artichoke | is bent down to aright angle, and the petioles are collected and covered over so asto blanch. The result is a lump, | which is eaten raw with salt, and is| tolerably good. In Italy it is used in| the autumn and winter, and replaces | radishes.”>—Gard. Chron. ARTOCARPUS. Bread Fruit Tree. Two species. Stove evergreens. Cut- tings. Light rich loam. ARUM. Thirty-seven species. Hardy, green-house, and stove. Off- sets. Common soil. ASARUM. Five species. Hardy, | herbaceous. Division. Common soil. ASCARICIDA. Two species. Stove annuals. Seed. Rich light soil. ASCLEPIAS. Thirty-six species. Chiefly hardy, and all herbaceous but A. Greeniana and Mexicana, which are stove evergreens. Seed or division. Peat. ASHES are the remains of a sub- stance which has undergone combus- tion, and are as various in their compo- nents as are the bodies capable of being burnt. Whatever be the substance burnt, the process should be made to proceed as slowly as possible, for by such regulation more carbon or char- choal] is preserved in the ashes, which is the most valuable of their constitu- ents. The simplest mode of efiecting a slow combustion is to bank it over with earth, leaving only a small orifice to admit the air sufficiently to keep up a smouldering fire. Ashes -have been usually recom- mended as a manure most useful to heavy soils, but this is a decided mis- take. As fertilizers they are beneficial upon al] soils, and they can never be applied in sufficient quantity to alter the staple of a too tenacious soil. To thirty iron. square yards, twenty-eight pounds is an average application, and they cannot be put on too fresh. Peat ashes contain— Silica. : 2 4 d «32 Sulphate of lime ; 12 Sulphate and muriate of soda pean i Carbonate of lime 40 | Oxide of iron , P 2 an anes Loss. Pe | They are an excellent appliéation to lawns, turnips, cabbages, potatoes, and peas. Coal ashes contain carbon, silica, }alumina, sulphate of lime, iron and potash, carbonate of lime, and oxide of They are a good manure for, grass, peas and potatoes. Sprinkled half an inch deep on the surface over beans and peas, they hasten the germi- nation of the seed, and preserve it from mice. They are also used for forming | dry walks in the kitchen department. Soap-boilers? ashes contain— Silica : ‘ ¥ “B50 Lime - G 27, hss Ht 35D Magnesia 5 - : sea Alumina . . 3 ; Paes | Oxide of Iron . ; a ye) BF — Manganese . é ap Potash (combined with Silica) . 0.5 Soda (Do.) . 0.2 Sulphuric Acid (combined with Lime) . - a (O28 Phosphoric Acid (Do. ) 2 ey eee Common salt. 0.1 Carbonic Acid (combined. with Lime and Magnesia) j 482 They are good for all crops but espe- cially grass and potatoes. Wood ashes and the ashes of garden weeds generally contain silica, alumina, oxides of iron and manganese, lime, magnesia, potash, partly in the state of a silicate, soda, sulphates of potash and lime, phosphate of lime, chloride of sodium, and carbonates of lime, potash, and magnesia, with a considerable por- tion of charcoal. They are a good appli- | cation to cabbages, potatoes, and peas. Turf ashes contain silica, alumina, oxides of iron and manganese, lime, magnesia, sulphates of potash and lime, phosphates of lime and magnesia, com- mon salt, and charcoal. They have been used beneficially to grass, onions, carrots, beans, potatoes, and beet root. ASH-TREE. (Frazines exrcelsior.’ ASIATIC-POISCN BULB. (Crinum asiaticum.) ASI 66 ASP ss SS ASIMINA. Four species. Hardy | plants have arisen from the same hole, deciduous shrubs. Layers. Peat and | the weakest must be removed as soon loam. as that point can be well determined. ASPALANTHUS. Thirty-one spe- cies. Green-house evergreen shrubs. | Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. ASPARAGUS. Twenty-eight spe- cies, of which the most important is the kitchen vegetable, asparagus offici- | nalis. Of this there are only two va- rieties, the purple topped and the green- topped; the first is principally culti- vated. There are a few sub-varieties which derive their names from the places of their growth, and are only to “be distinguished for superior size or flavour, which they usually lose on re- moval from their native place. Soil—The soil best suited to this vegetable is a fresh sandy loam, made rich by the abundant addition of manure. Situation—The site of the beds should be such as to enjoy the influ- ence of the sun during the whole of the day, as free as possible from the influ- ence of trees and shrubs, and if choice is allowed, ranging east and west. The subsoil should be dry, or the bed kept so by being founded on rubbish or other material toserve asadrain. The space of ground required to be planted with this vegetable for the supply of a small family is at least eight rods. If less it will be incapable of affording one hun- dred heads at a time. Sixteen rods will in general afford two or three hun- dred every day, in the height of the season. : Time of sowing.—To raise plants, the seed may be sown from the middle of February to the beginning of April; the most usual time is about the middle of March. The best mode is to insert them by the dibble five or six inches | apart, and an inch below the surface, | two seeds to be put in each hole, or they may be sown in drills made the same distance asunder. _ Culture in seed bed.—If dry weather, the bed should be refreshed with mode- | rate but frequent waterings, and if! sown as late as April, shade is required by means of a little haulm during the meridian of hot days, until the seeds germinate. Care must be taken to keep them free from weeds, though this ope- ration should never commence until the | plants are well above ground, which | will be in the course of three or four | weeks from the time of sowing. Iftwo| Towards the end of October, as soon as the stems are completely withered, they must be cut down, and well pu- trefied, dung spread over the bed tothe depth of about two inches; this Serves not only to increase the vigour of the plants in the following year, but to pre- serve them during the winter from in- jury by the frost. About March in the next year, every other plant must be taken up and transplanted into a bed, twelve inches apart, if it is intended that they should attain another, or two years’ further growth, before being finally planted out, or they may be planted immediately into the beds for production. It may be here remarked that the plants may remain one or two years in the seed bed; they will even succeed after remaining three, but if they continue four they generally fail. It is, however, certain that they are best removed when one year old. Some gardeners judiciously sow the seed in the beds where they are to re- main for production. Time of final planting.—The best time for the final removal is the end of March, if the soil is dry, and the season warm and forward; otherwise it is bet- ter to wait until the commencement of April.. A very determinate signal of the appropriate time for planting, is when the plants are beginning to grow. If moved earlier, and they have to lie torpid for two or three months, many of them die, or in general shoot up very weak. ; Construction of the beds.—In forming the beds for regular production, have them three feet wide. The site of the bed being marked out, the usual prac- i tice is to trench the ground two spades 'deep, and then to cover it with weil- rotted manure, from six to ten inches deep; the large stones being sorted out, and care taken that the dung lies at least six inches below the surface. Mode of planting.—The plants being |taken from the seed-bed carefully with /a narrow-pronged dung-fork, with as little injury to the roots as possible, they must be laid separately and evenly to- gether, for the sake of convenience whilst planting, the roots being apt to entangle and cause much trouble and injury in parting them. They should ASP 67 ASP ———$_— be exposed as short a time as possible to the air, and to this end it isadvisable to keep them until planted in a basket covered with a little sand. The mode of planting is to form drills or narrow trenches five or six inches deep and a foot apart, cut out with the spade, the line side of each drill being made per- pendicular, and against this the plants are to be placed, with their crowns one and a half or two inches below the sur- face, and twelve inches asunder. The roots must be spread out wide in the form of a fan, a little earth being drawn over each to retain it in its position whilst the row is proceeded with. For the sake of convenience, one drill should be made at a time, and the plants inserted and covered completely before another is commenced. When the planting is completed, the bed is to be lightly raked over, and its outline dis- tinctly marked out. Care must be had never to tread on the beds—they are formed narrow to render it unnecessary —for everything tending to consoli- date them is injurious, as, from the _ length of time they have to continue, without a possibility of stirring them to any considerable depth, they have a natural tendency to have a closer tex- ture than is beneficial to vegetation. Water must be given in dry weather daily until the plants are established. The paths between the beds are to be two and a half feet wide. Mr. Beaton says, that ‘‘ By far the best way of growing asparagus is in single rows three feet apart, and nine inches plant from plant; but if the ground is not deeper than two feet or thirty inches, or if room is scarce, the rows need not be more than thirty inches asunder. ‘¢T have grown asparagus this way for the last fifteen years, and give them no dung in winter, merely clearing off the stalks and weeds in October, and pointing over the surface about two inches deep with a fork, and leaving it as rough as possible. ‘¢ Karly in March, when the surface is_ quite dry, it is "raked down, and about two inches of soil drawn over the crowns from each side of the rows, which gives the ground something of the appearance of a plot of peas earthed up for the first time. When the gather- ing is nearly over, the ground is stirred gathering the crop. The hollow be- tween the little ridges is then filled up with a powerful compost, consisting of equal portions of sandy soil, leaf mould, and pigeon’s dung; the whole is then drenched with liquid manure from the stables, cowhouses, or laundry, and the foreman of the kitchen garden gets carte blanche to water the asparagus any day through the growing season, when he can best spare his men, or at all events every fortnight, and always with liquid manure if possible. As to the quantity of water, the only instruc- tion he gets is that he cannot drown them. in summer.’?’—Gard. Chron. Subsequent cultivation.—Throughout the year care must be taken to keep the beds clear of weeds, and in the spring and summer apply liquid manure twice a week plentifully. In the latter end of October or commencement of November, the beds are to have the winter dressing. The stalks must be cut down and cleared away, and the weeds hoed off into the paths, care being taken not to commence whilst the stems are at all green, for if they are cut down whilst in a vegetating state the roots are very prone to shoot again, and consequently are propor- tionably weakened. On the richness of the ground and warmth of the season the sweetness of asparagus depends. The dung needs merely to be laid regularly over the bed, and the weeds, as well as some manure, to be slightly pointed into the paths, some of the mould from which must be spread to the depth of two inches over the dung just laid upon the beds. In the end of March, or early in April, before the plants begin to sprout, the rows are to be stirred be- tween to a moderate depth with the asparagus fork, running it slantingly two or three inches beneath the sur- face, as the object is merely to stir the surface and slightly mix it with the dung. Great care must be taken not in the least to disturb the plants. Some gar- deners recommend the beds should only be hoed again, so fearful are they of the injury which may be done to the stools; but if it be done carefully, as above di- rected, the fork is the best implement to be employed. This course of culti- again, to loosen the tramping made in| vation is to be continued annually, but This is cultivating the asparagus — ASP 68 ” ASP —>—_——_ with this judicious modification, that | le | earth be never taken from the paths after the first year, but these merely be covered with dung, and which is only to be slightly dug in; for every gar-| dener must have observed that the roots | of the outer row extend into the alleys, | and are consequently destroyed if they | are dug over. And, rather than that! should take place, the beds should have | | no winter covering unless earth can be_ obtained from some other source, as | asparagus does not generally suffer from frost, as is commonly supposed. Manuring.—No garden plant is more benefitted than is asparagus by the ap- | plication of common salt, if it be given | at such times as the plants are growing. Two pounds to every thirty square | yards of surface should be sown broad- | cast over the beds early in April. After | that, water the plants once a week with | ‘ liquid manure, formed of half an ounce of guano and four ounces of salt to! every gallon of water. The supply of food cannot be too rich or too abundant. Spanish culture.-—Near Sebastian, in Spain, the finest asparagus in Europe is produced by the following mode :— ‘¢¥n March the seed is sown in two drills, about two inches deep, and eighteen inches from the alleys, thus leaving a space of two feet between the drills. The rows run invariably , east and west, doubtless in order that | the plants may shade the ground during | the heats of summer. ¢¢ When the seedlings are about six | inches high, they are thinned to some- | thing more than a foot apart. Water is conducted once a day among the alleys, and over the beds, so as to give these seedlings an abundant and con- | stant supply of fluid during the season of their growth. This is the cultiva- tion during the first year. ‘© The second year, in the month of | March, the beds are covered with three | or four inches of fresh night soil from | the reservoirs of the town. It remains on them during the summer, and is lightly dug in during the succeeding | autumn; the operation ef irrigation being continued as during the first sea- son. This excessive stimulus, and the abundant room the plants have to grow in, must necessarily make them ex- tremely vigorous, and prepare them | for the production of gigantic sprouts. ‘¢In the third spring asparagus is fit to cut. Doubtless all its energies are developed by the digging in of the ma- nure in the autumn of the second year, and when it does begin to sprout, it finds its roots in contact with a soil of inexhaustible fertility. ‘¢ Previously, however, to the cutting, each bed is covered in the course of March very lightly with dead leaves, to the depth of about eight inches ; and the cutting does not commence till the plants peep through this covering, when it is carefully removed from the stems, |in order that the finest only may be cut, which are rendered white by their leafy covering, and succulent by the exces- sive richness of the soil. ‘¢In the autumn of the third year, after the first cutting, the leaves are re- moved, and the beds are again dressed with fresh night soil, as before; and these operations are repeated year after year. In addition to this, the beds are half under salt water annually at spring tides.” Time of production. —In May the beds are in full production of young shoots, which, when from two to five inches high, are fit for cutting, and as long as the head continues compact and firm. Care must be taken in cutting not to injure those buds which are generally rising from the same root in various graces of successional growth within the ground. The knife ought to be narrow pointed, the blade about nine inches in length, and saw edged. The earth being carefully opened round the shoot, to observe whether any others are arising, the blade is to be gently slipped along the stalk until it reaches its extremity, where the cut isto be made in a slanting direction. Italmost always occurs that the same stool produces a greater number of small heads than large ones, but the latter only should be cut: for, the oftener the former are re- moved, the more numerously will they | be produced, and the stools will sooner become exhausted. * <¢ No one should cut too many soreuts from his asparagus beds. On the con- trary, the gardener should take care to leave at least two or three strong sprouts, to grow from every root; or what is better, his beds shonld be rested one year, and cut another; for he may be certain from the strength of the sum- mer shoots, what sort of sprouts he will have to cut the succeeding year— ASP 69 ASP ——~ remembering always that it is useless to manure asparagus beds for sprouts independently of summer shoots. Ifa bed of asparagus is weak, manure in _ the autumn will do but little for making it bring strong sprouts the next season. All that the manure can then do is to feed abundantly the summer shoots of the succeeding summer, and so ena- ble them to prepare plenty of materials out of which a second season’s strong sprouts may be pushed forth. What is true of asparagus is equally true of sea kale and rhubarb.??—Gard. Chron. To obtain seed.—Some shoots should be marked and left in early spring, for those which are allowed to run up after the season of cutting is over, are seldom forward enough to ripen their seeds perfectly. In choosing the shoots for this purpose, those only must be marked which are the finest, roundest, and have the closest heads; those having quick opening heads, or are small or flat, are never to be left. More are to be selected than would be necessary if each stem would assuredly be fruitful ; but as some of them only bear male or unproductive blossoms, that contin- gency must be allowed for. Each chosen shoot must be fastened to astake, which by keeping it in its natural posi- tion, enables the seed to ripen more perfectly. The seed is usually ripe in September, when it must be collected and left ina tub for four or six weeks, for the pulp and husk of the berry to decay, when it may be well cleansed in water. The seeds sink to the bottom, and the re- fuse floats, and will pass away with the water as it isgently poured off. By two or three washings the seeds will be completely cleansed; and when perfectly dried by exposure to the sun and air, may be stored for use. Forcing.——Planis to be employed.—— Such plants must be inserted in hot-beds as are five or six years old, and appear of sufficient strength to produce vigo- rous shoots: when, however, any old natural ground plantations are intended to be broken up, at the proper season some of the best plants may be selected to be plunged ina hot-bed or any spare corner of the stove bark beds. When more than ten years old, they are scarcely worth employing. To plant old stools for the main forcing crop, is, however, decidedly erroneous; for, if plants are past production, and unfit to remain in the garden, little can be expected from them when forced. Time of planting.—The first planta- tion should be made about the latter end of September; the bed, if it works favourably, will begin to produce in the course of four or five weeks, and will continue to do so for about three ; each light producing in that time 300 or 400 shoots, and affording a gathering every two or three days. Produce.—To have a regular sue- cession, a fresh bed must be formed every three or four weeks, the last crop to be planted in March or the early part of April; this will continue in production until the arrival of the natu- ral ground crops. The Jast made bede will be in production a fortnight sooner than those made about Christmas. Bed.—The hot-bed must be substan- tial, and proportioned to the size and number of the lights, and to the time of year. The common mode of making a hot-bed is usually followed. The bed must be topped with six inches of light rich earth. Quantity necessary.—If a small family is to be supplied, three or four lights will be sufficient at a time ; for a larger six or eight will not be too many. Several hundred plants may be inserted under each, as they may be crowded as close as possible together; from 500 to 900 are capable of being inserted under a three light frame, according to their size. Mode of planting.—In planting, a furrow being drawn the whole lensth of the frame, against one side of it the first row or course is to be placed, the crown upright, and a little earth drawn on to the lower ends of the roots, then more plants again in the same manner, and so continued throughout, it being carefully observed to keep them all regularly about an inch below the sur- face; all round on the edge of the bed some moist earth must be banked close to the outside roots. Precautions necessary.—If the bed is extensive, it will probably acquire a violent heat; the frames must there- fore be continued off until it has be- come regular, otherwise the roots are liable to be destroyed by being, as it is technically termed, scorched or steam- scalded. Treatment.—When the heat has be- ee 70 ATH — come regular, the frames may be set on; and more earth be applied by de- Green-house evergreen twiners. ASTEPHANUS. Two species. Di- grees over the crowns of the plants | vision. Peat and loam. until it acquires a total depth of five or six inches. ASTER. One hundred and fifty-two species. Chiefly hardy, but a few The glasses must be kept open an_ green-house plants.~ Suckers or divi- inch or two, as Jong and as often as sion. possible, without too great a reduction | of temperature occurring, so as to ad-| mit air freely and give vent to the va- pours; for on this depends the superi- | ority in flavour and appearance of the shoots. ‘The heat must bekept up by a lining of hot dung, and by covering the glasses every night with mats, &c. The temperature at night should never be below 50°, and in the day its| maximum at 62°. Gathering.—In gathering, for which | the shoots are fit when from two to five inches in height, the finger and thumb must be thrust down into the earth and the stem broken off at the bottom. Insecis.—The foliage of this vege-| table is liable to be destroyed by the larve of two beetles, the Lema asparagi, or Asparagus Beetle, and the Lema duo- decim punctata. The only remedy is to pick off and destroy the affected | branches. ASPASIA. Twospecies. Stove epi- phytes. Buibs. Peat and potsherds. ASPEN, (Populus tremula.) ASPERULA, Woodroof. Twenty- four species. Hardy herbaceous, ex- cept A. brevifolia, which is a half-hardy evergreen. Division. Moist shaded soil. | ASPHODELUS. Asphodel. Twelve species. Hardy bulbs, except A. clava- tus and intermedia. Offsets. Common | soil. ASPIDISTRA. Twospecies. Stove herbaceous. Suckers. Common soil. Flowers produced under ground. ASPIDIUM. Forty-nine spécies. Ferns. Hardy, green-house or stove. Seed or division. Loam and peat. ASPIDIOTUS. - See Coccus. ASPLENIUM. Forty-nine species. Ferns. Hardy, green-house or stove. Seed or division. Loam and peat. ASSONIA. Two species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy loam. ASTARTEA fascicularis. Green-| house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. | Sandy loam and peat. ASTELMA. Ten species. Green-| house evergreen shrubs. Seed or cut- | tings. Sandy peat. Common soil. The time for thus propagating them is in autumn, or early spring; but many of the species /are increased by cuttings of the flower stalks, planted in a shady border during May orJune. The varieties. are numer- ous. ASTEROCEPHALUS. species. Fifty-three Mostly hardy annuals and perennials. Seed or cuttings. Com- mon soil. ASTILBE decandra. MUardy herb- aceous. Division. Peat. ASTRAGALUS. One hundred and eleven species. Nearly all hardy pe- rennials and annuals; the first propa- | gated by division, the second by seed. Common soil. ASTRANTIA. Six species. herbaceous. Division. soil. ASTRAP/LA. Threespecies. Stove Hardy Common light evergreen trees. Cuttings. Rich light soil. ASTROCARYUM. Five species. Palms. Stove. Seed. Rich loam. ASTROLOBIUM. Four species. Hardy annuals. Seed. Common soil. ASTROLOMA. Two species. Greenhouse. evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. ASTYRIA rosea. Stove shrub. Cut- tings. Sandy loam. ATALANTIA monophylia. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich loam. ATAMASCO-LILY (Zephyranthes Atamasco). ATHALIA spinarum. Turnip Saw- fly, known popularly as the Black-cater- pillar, Black-canker, Black-palmer, Ne- gro, &c. Mr. Curtis observes, that ‘*As early as May, or sooner, the Saw-flies make their appearance; the female lays her eggs on the under surface along the margin of the leaf. These hatch in about five days, and produce the Ne- groes, which are not thicker than a fine thread, and white, but after changing eventually are three-quarters of an ‘inch long, when they are more of a jlead colour and yellowish-white be- their skins, they become black, and. aa ATH 71 AUG ——j-—_.- neath their skins, being very much wrinkled ; they erect their tails whilst feeding, and are stretched out at full length in repose, or lie sleeping coiled up on the leaf; they are feéding about three weeks, after which they descend to the ground, and enter the earth, where they form a cocoon, silvery in- side, in which the larva eventually be- comes a pupa. Insummer they remain only three weeks in this quiescent state, but the autumnal ones lie buried through the winter.°—Gard. Chron. WHand- picking is the only mode of removing the caterpillars. ATHANASIA. Green-house evergreen shrubs. tings. Sandy loam. ATHEROSPERMA 2moschata. Green- house evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam Seventeen species. Cut- and peat. ATHRIXIA capensis. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light loam. ATRAGENE. Five species. Hardy deciduous climbers. Cuttings. Com- mon soil. ATRIPLEX. Three species. Orach. ATTALEA. Sevenspecies. Palms. Stove. Seed. Rich loam. AUBRIETIA. Three species. Hardy evergreen trailers. Division and cut- tings. Light soil. AUCUBA japonica. Evergreen shrub, hardy in the middle states on light dry soil. The leaves, if exposed to the sun during winter, are liable to injury. Cuttings. Common soil. AUDISERTIA incana. Hardy ever- green shrub. Seed. Common soil. AUDOUINIA capitata. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat. . AUGUST. This is a glorious month in the middle states; towards its close the extreme heat of summer has sub- sided, the mornings and evenings are cool and pleasant; the luscious peach, See and pears, and plums are in full sea-. son, and one really feels as if he could compromise for August the year round. The various departments now re- quire the following work to be at- tended to:—the directions for the kitchen garden are specially intended for the middle portion of the Union. KITCHEN GARDEN. Alexanders, sow.—Angelica, sow.—— Aromatic Herbs may still be. planted ; gather for drying and distilling.—Arti- chokes, break down, &c.—Asparagus- beds, weed.—Balm, plant; gather for drying.--Borage,sow.—— Borecole, plant. --Brocoli, plant, b.—Cabbages, plant out.—— Cardoons, earth up.-—— Cauli- flowers, late, plant.——Celeriac, earth up. --Celery, plant.—Chervil, sow.——Cole- worts, sow for, b. ; plant.—-Corn Salad, sow.—Cress, sow.—Cucumbers, plant or sow, b.—Diil is fit for gathering. — Earthing-up, attend to.— Endive, plant; blanch, &c., the advancing crops.— Fennel, sow and_ plant. — Finochio, earth up.—Garlic, take up.—Hoeing, attend to.—Kidney Beans, sow, b.— Leeks, plant, b.—Lettuces, sow, plant out.—WMelons, attend to.— Mint, gather for drying.—Mushroom-beds, make ; at- tend to.—Nasturtium Berries, gather.— Onions, gather.—Parsley, sow, b.— Peas, sow, b.—Radishes, sow ; gather pods for pickling.—Rape (edible rooted), sow.— Rochambole, take up.—Seeds, gather as ripe.—Shallots, take up.— Small Salading , sow.—Spinach, sow.— Stir between plants in rows, &c.— Turnips, sow at intervals, through- out the month, &c¢.—Turnip-Cabbage, plant.—Weeding and Watering, at- tend to.—Wormuwood, plant, b.—To- matos, plant for late crop. ORCHARD. Budding, done in July; loosen the bandages, if on more than three weeks ; remove shoots from stocks; budding may be done in most fruit, b.—Fig Trees, train in closely to let the fruit have the full benefit of the sun; but do not prune. Nectarines, look over; re- move useless shoots; train in close; water plentifully or the fruit will drop. Nets, spread over fruit to protect it from birds.—Peaches.—Vines, look over again and clear from useless shoots, &c. Wasps, destroy by luring them into bottles. FLOWER GARDEN. Anemones, sow.— Annuals, stick ; wa- ter; clear from decayed leaves, &c. Auriculas, shift into fresh earth ; water; keep in the shade; seedlings prick out; sow. — Biennial seedlings, transplant. Bulbous-rooted flower-seeds, to obtain varieties, sow.—Bulbous roots, remove or transplant ; remove and plant offsets; (Autumn flowering), plant.—Carnation, AUG 72 AUR een layers cut from old root and plant; /|&c., b. — Budding, finish, b. — Dress water frequently ; layering may still be done, b.; card the flowers and shade from sun.—Dahlias, stake; thin the flowers.— Daisies, propagate.—Double- blossomed perennials with fibrous roots, propagate by division, e.— Dress borders as required.—Edgings of box, &c., clip in wet weather.—Zvergreens may be moved, e., if wet weather; plant cut- tings.— Grass, mow and roll weekly.— Grass seeds may be sown, e.—Gravel, weed and roll weekly.— Hedges, clip in moist weather.—Mignonette, sow.— Pe- largoniums, propagate by cuttings, b.— Perennials, in pots and elsewhere, will require water almost daily; break down flower stalks. as they finish bloom- ing ; seedlings, transplant.—Pipings of Pinks may be planted out.—Polyan- thuses, sow. — Potted Annuals will re- quire water daily in dry weather.—Ra- nunculuses, sow ; plant in pots to bloom in November.—Seeds, gather as they ripen.—Sowings, to obtain varieties, had better be done in boxes.— Ten-week Stock, sow, b.—Tulips, and other bulb- | ous-rooted flower-seed, sow. — Turf, may be laid, e-—Watering will be re- quired generally in dry weather.— Weeding, generally attend to. HOT-HOUSE. Air, admit freely every day.—Bark- beds, stir and add fresh.— Bulbous-rooted Plants, force plants in pots; they will be much stronger than if done in the next | month.—Check plants growing too free- | ly, by removing them to cooler situa- tions. — Cuttings of succulents, and some others, may be planted, b.— Dress the plants, by removing all de- cayed parts, weeds, &c., and stirring the soil as appears necessary.— Grafting of Ipomezas, and some other sorts, may be practised.— Pines, finish shifting, b.; water frequently ; and shade until well established, then give liquid manure weekly; plant crowns and suckers as required ; day temp. 85°; night 609.— Shifting, wherever necessary, complete b.; especially the orchideous plants.— Suckers, offsets, &c., may yet be planted. —Vines ; remove damaged grapes from bunches as they appear; give liquid manure to those beginning to ripen.— Water, give freely every second day. GREEN-HOUSE. Aloes, propagate by slips, suckers, | every plant as occasion offers.—Eurth, give to Oranges, &c.; stir the surface frequently.—-Oranges, Lemons, &c., bud, b.—- Peat-mould plants, especially heaths, keep assiduously supplied with water.— Potted Plants, continue outside the house until the end of the month.— Seedlings, transplant singly.—Shifiing into larger pots, finish. — Succulent Plants, as Aloes, &c., propagate by slips, &c., b—Water freely and daily in dry weather. AULAX. Two species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sand and a little loam. AURICULA. (Primula Auricula.) This is a popular Florist’s flower, and animated contests take place for the premiums annually offered by the Eng- lish provincial Horticultural Societies. Varieties.— Mr. Slater, Florist, of Cheetham Hill, Manchester, says, ‘* For an amateur’s first collection, procure of Green-edged: Rider?s Waterloo; Pol- litt’s Standard of England and Highland Laddie; Ollier?’s Lady Anne Wilbraham; Oliver’s Lovely Anne; shown also in grey-edged class. Grey-edged: Grimes Privateer; Kenyon’s Ringleader ; War- ris Union; Sykes Complete; Thomp- son’s Revenge. White-edged: Taylor’s Glory ; Leigh’s Bright Venus; Taylor’s Favourite ; Kenyon’s Lord Chancellor ; Leigh’s Pillar of Beauty. Selfs: Grimes, Hovas, Flag; Berry’s Lord Primate; Whittaker’s True Blue. Alpines: Em- merson’s Favourite; Fieldhouse’s Fair Rosamond. , 2d. ** As an addition to his collec- tion, obtain of Green-edged: Booth’s Freedom; Leigh’s Colonel Taylor; Yates’s Morris; Green Hero; Page’s Champion ; Ashton’s Prince of Wales; Clough’s Dolittle ; Barlow’s King ; Lit- ton’s Imperator; Howard’s Nelson; Pearson’s Badajos; Pollit’s Ruler of England; Buckley’s Jolly Tar; Faulk- ner’s Ne Plus Ultra. Grey-edged : Fletcher’s, Mary Anne, and Ne Plus Ultra; Waterhouse’s Conqueror of Eu- rope; Thompson’s Bang-up; Taylor’s Ploughboy; Pearson’s Liberty; Howard’s Sweepstake; shown also in green-edged class. White-edged: Ashworth’s Rule All and Regular ; Taylor’s Incompara- ble; Wood’s Delight; Popplewell’s Conqueror ; Potts? Regulator ; Ashton’s Bonny Lass; Cheetham?s Countess ot Wilton. Alpines: King of the Alps; j x = Clegg’s Blue Bonnet; Kay’s Jupiter; | AUR 73 AVE Queen Victoria ; Conspicuous; Rising | should form a perfect circle of a dense Sun; Fair Helen; Kettleby’s True Blue. Selfs: Redmayn’s Metropolitan; Ne- therwood’s Othello; Berry’s Lord Lee; Kenyon’s Freedom; Gorton’s Stadt- holder, (yellow,) Hufton’s Squire’ Mun- day. Lastly, these are worthy of a place in any collection. Green-edged: | Hopworth’s Robin Hood; Moore’s Jubilee; Lightbody’s Star of Beth- lehem; Stretch’s Alexander. Grey- edged: Atcherley’s Alpine Shepherd- ess; Metcalfe’s Lancashire Hero; Ashworth’s Newton Hero; Simpson’s Lord of Hallamshire; Kent’s Queen Victoria. White-edged: Lily of the Valley ; Wild’s Bright Phebus ; Leigh’s Earl Grosvenor. Selfs: Oddie’s Rest, Goldfinch, (yellow,) Faulkner’s Han- nibal; Bradshaw’s Tidy. I ought to have stated that the amateur’s first collection comprises such as are not high priced, and yet good ; but it must not be forgotten that the second addi- tion contains all the first-rate varieties in cultivation, with very few excep- tions.?’—Gard. Chron. Characteristics of excellence.—‘*‘ In its general appearance, the foliage should be well grown and healthy, covering a space about equal to double the width of the head of bloom. The stem should be firm, erect, and suffi- ciently strong to support the truss with- out assistance, and to carry it well above the foliage. The foot-stalks of the pip should be strong and ef such a length as will allow the flowers to open with- eut one overlaying another, the whole forming a compact globular head of well expanded flowers equal in size and similar in properties. ‘¢ The addition of one or two guard- leaves, standing up at the back of the truss, gives a finish to the whole, and adds considerably to its beauty by the eontrast they form with the vivid and lively appearance of the flowers. ‘¢ The qualities which the individual pip should possess consist in its being perfectly round, flat and smooth on the edge ; the divisions which form the seg- ments of the corolla should be but slightly indented, thereby rendering the circles more perfect. ‘¢ The tube or centre must be round, of a yellow colour, filled with the an- thers or thrum. . ‘¢ The eye or paste round the tube pure white, clean on its edges, even, and free from blemishes. ‘¢ The band of colour surrounding the eye should be dark, rich, or bright, joining the margin witha feathery edge, equally distributed all round, but never encroaching so much upon the edge as to pass through to the rim. ‘ ferred to most other trees, because it bears cutting, heading, or lopping in any manner. The rough Dutch elm is approved by some because of its quick growth, and it is a tree that will not, only bear removing very well, but that is green in the spring almost as soon as any plant whatever, and continues so equally long. It makes an incompara- ble hedge, and is preferable to all other trees for lofty espaliers. The lime is very useful on account of its regular growth and fine shade, and the horse- chestnut is proper for such places as are not too much exposed to rough winds. The common chestnut does very well in a good soil, or on warm gravels, as it rises to a considerable height, when planted somewhat close; but when it stands singly it is rather inclined to spread than grow tall. The beech na- turally grows well with us in its wild state, but itis less to be chosen for ave- nues than others, because it does not bear transplanting well. The abele may also be employed for this use, as it is adapted to almost any soil, and is the quickest grower of any forest tree. It seldom fails in transplanting, and suc- ceeds very well in wet soils, in which the others are apt to suffer. The oak is but seldom used for avenues, because of its slow growth; it would, however, compensate by its permanence and beauty. The sugar maple, tulip poplar, oriental and native buttonwood are all well adapted to the purpose. AVERRHOA. ° Two species. evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. loam. AVERUNCATOR, or pole pruning shears. The Averuncator, attached to a pole, operates by means of a lever moved by a cord and pulley; its use is to prune from the ground trees whose branches are beyond reach. Branches of one inch and a half in diameter may be easily cut off with this instrument. Averuncators of small size, are also very useful in cutting off from shade and fruit trees small branches to which in- seets have attached themselves: they are also used for gathering fine fruits, which when cut fall into a basket, to be Stove Sandy attached to the instrument when used | for this purpose. Fig. 20 is a very effective instrument of a similar kind, and has the advantage ofa sliding cut, which lessens the labour of pruning, and leaves the branch which has been cut as smooth as though a knife had been used ; this instrument is supe- perior to Fig. 19 in this respect, but will not cut a branch of greater diame- ter than one inch. 5 Oe ie a AVIARY. This building, devoted to the rearing of birds distinguished for the beauty either of their notes or plum- age, is rarely admitted within a garden, and still more rarely are they sufficient- ly ornamental or sufficiently free from disagreeables to be a source of pleasure. AYENIA. Two species. Stove ever- greens. Cuttings. Rich loam. AZALEA. Sixty species, and many varieties. The North American are hardy and deciduous, and the Chinese or Indian are green-house evergreens. Cuttings. Sandy peat and loam. Mr. James Falconer, of Cheam, gives the following excellent directions for AZA cultivating the varieties of Azalea In- dica. Soil.—** The soil best adapted for their growth is a peaty earth found on com- mons where heath abounds, of a light fibrous texture, and containing a good portion of sand. It should be pared off from three inches to four inches deep, the turves should be spread bottom upwards, and exposed to the sun during summer, and after having a few showers of rain upon it to restore it to a proper degree of moisture, it may be laid up in narrow ridges in the autumn; it cin then be taken to the potting-shed as required. When used, it should be broken or se- | parated with a trowel, and not sifted, rejecting the undecayed surface; and for the strong-growing varieties, to six- eighths of peat and one-eighth loam, and one-eighth silver sand. << Sowing.—The Indian Azaleas ripen their seed in February, which should be sown about the beginning of March in pots with ample drainage, and a larger portion of silver sand mixed with the peat. Thepotshould be filled to within half an inch of the top, and pressed evenly and firmly down with the bottom of another. ‘¢ The seed should then be sown re- gularly over the surface, and after being covered sufficiently deep with peat, again pressed down, so that, after being watered, the seed may remain buried. The pots should be placed on a shelf in the green-house, and shaded from the direct rays of the sun. <¢ Itis better that the seeds should ve- getate by the increasing heat of the spring than by artificial means, since they will come up stronger, and are not so liable to damp off. They may be pricked out into other pots as soon as they have made two or three leaves, and as they advance in growth they may be potted into thumbs, or small sixties, in which they may remain in winter. ‘¢ Culture——About the beginning of March those which are intended for specimens should be put into a house at a temperature of from 45° to 50°, where they will soon be excited to grow. If in sixty or forty sized pots, they should be shifted into sizes larger; but it is better to do this when the plants are in a growing state. They should then be shaded for a few days, and when the flower is shut up in the afternoon, gently syringed. 75 AZA Many varieties wil] throw up three or four stems; the strongest should be selected for a leader. When growing, they should have plenty of air and light, without being exposed to a cold cur- rent, which is so frequently prejudicial to young plants in the spring, when clear sunshine and cold winds prevail. | As they will be required to grow as late in the autumn as the weather will per- mit without applying fire-heat, and as it is not desirable that they should form flower-buds this season, those which want pot-room should be again shifted about the latter end of July. Great care shoutd be taken that they are not over- potted, and that they have sufficient drainage; elevating the collar of the stem considerably, by rounding the upper side of the ball, but not so as to injure the tender and delicate fibres. The azalea is liable to canker from the water remaining too long about the col- lar; therefore, in watering, the spout of the pot should never be applied to it, as the cold current of water frequently repeated will check the flow of sap, and ultimately cause death. <* They should be placed at the back of the green-house during the winter, as near the glass as convenient, to ripen the wood. << In the following spring they should be subjected to the same treatment, and again shifted into larger pots.— About the latter end of July they will have the afternoon sun. Free from the drip of trees and protected from high winds, the plants will now be of suffi- cient size to bloom, and in September will have formed their flower-buds. ‘¢ When out of doors they should be occasionally syringed overhead in very |dry weather, and the ground around | them frequently stirred and watered. | ‘¢ About the middle of December, |two or three varieties should be put into a forcing-house, ranging from 50° to 65°; these will begin to bloom about the latter end of January, after which they should be removed to the green- house or conservatory, to which they will give much brilliancy, and in mild weather impart a mild perfume. About week before the first have expand- ed their blossoms, another succession should be put in, selecting those which from the enlargement of their buds give evidence of their susceptibility of ex- citement; observing that the more va- AZA 76 BAL ———— rious the colour of the flower, the better | where, it is probable, the finest speci- effect will be produced in the green-| mens in a cultivated state still exist. house. It isasafe ruleto keep up for) AZARA. Two species. Green- a succession three or four varieties, to| house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.— be put into heat as above stated, once | Sandy loam. a month, until the season is so farad-| AZOREAN FENNEL. See Fino- vanced that the flowers are bursting in| chio. the cool house. BABIANA. Eighteen species. «*They should then be taken into| Green-house bulbs. Offsets or seeds. heat, by which means the flower will} Sand, loam and peat. be larger, the colours more brilliant,and| BACAZIA spinosa. Green-house their fragrance more delightful. Every! evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and means should be adopted to prevent} loam. the attacks of the humble bee, as every] BACCHARIS. Ploughman’s Spike- blossom in which it inserts its proboscis; nard. Tweive species. Chiefly stove will fall off in a few hours afterwards. | and green-house evergreen shrubs. B. ‘¢ When the large specimen plants! glomeriflora and halimifolia are hardy have done flowering, all the seed ves-} deciduous. Cuttings. Loam and peat. sels should be picked off, leaving such} BACTRIS. Seven species. Palms. as are intended for seed. Theyshould| Stove. Seed. Sandy loam. be then shifted and encouraged to grow; BADGER’S BANE, Aconitum meloc- afterwards placing them out of doors,| fonum. as before stated. BAECKIA. Nine species. Green- «Great care should be taken at all} house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.— times to keep them free from insects,; Loam and peat. as they are liable to be attacked by a| BAKING is a term descriptive of the species of thrips, for which the best| hard impervious state of clayey soils, remedy is a strong fumigation of to-|long exposed to drought. It can be bacco. The varieties Variegata and La-| prevented only by altering the staple of teritia, are early excited in the spring ;| the soil, by the admixture ofsand, chalk, but are nevertheless the latest bloomers; | coal-ashes, and other Jess cohesive mat- they will make stronger and finer spe-| ters than clay. cimens by being inarched on the most| BALANTIUM culcita. Stove fern. robust stocks. Division. Peat and Joam. ‘“cIf after they have made their au-| BALM (Melissa officinalis). tumnal growth they should not have Soil and situation.—The soil best formed flower-buds, by placing them in| suited to its growth, is any poor and a stove in a strong moist heat, until | friable, but rather inclining to clayey they have again burst into leaf, and then| than silicious. Manure is never re- removing them to acold green-house,| quired. An eastern aspect is best for it. the excitement produced will frequently| Time and mode of planting.——It is cause them to set their flower-buds.’’— | propagated by offsets of the roots, and Gard. Chron. Our own native varieties| by slips of the young shoots. The first have been sadly overlooked in the} mode may be practised any time during search for foreign beauty—those from| the spring and autumn, but the latter the far south are equally hardy with! only during May or June. If offsets those of the middle states, and are|are employed, they may be planted at readily cultivated ; the varieties are nu- | once where they are to remain, at ten merous, and embrace almost every} or twelve inches; but if by slips, they shade of colour, including pure white, | must be inserted in a shady border, to from light yellow to brilliant flame;|be thence removed, in September or they thrive better partially screened| October, to where they are to remain. from the sun’s rays, and demand a pe-; At every removal water must be given, culiar soil easily compounded by aj if dry weather, and until they are estab- mixture ofsurface earth from woodland, | lished. During the summer they re- and decomposed turf or grass sods, in| quire only to be kept clear of weeds. about equal proportions. ‘The two ear-| In October the old beds require to be liest collections of this splendid shrub} dressed, their decayed leaves and stalks were made at the Bartram Botanic| cleared away, and the soil loosened by Gardens, and the Landreth Nurseries, | the hoe or slight digging. BAL 77 BAN es Old beds may be gathered from in July, for drying, but their green leaves from March and September, and those planted in spring, will even afford a gathering in the autumn of the same year. For drying, the stalks are cut with their full clothing of leaves to the very bottom, and the process completed gradually in the shade. BALM OF GILEAD. Several plants are popularly known under this name. «The Balm of Gilead of commerce is the dried iuice of a low tree or shrub (amyris gileadensis), which grows in several parts of Abyssinia and Syria. This tree has spreading, crooked branches; small, bright-green leaves, growing in threes ; and small, white flowers on separate footstalks. The petals are four in num- ber, and the fruit is a small, egg-shaped berry, containing asmooth nut. By the inhabitants of Syria and Egypt, this bal- sam, as appears from the Scriptures, was in great esteem from the highest | periods of antiquity. We are informed by Josephus, the Jewish historian, that the balsam of Gilead was one of the trees which was given by the queen of Sheba to king Solomon. The Ishmael- itish merchants, who were the pur- chasers of Joseph, are said to have been traveling from Gilead, on the eastern side of Canaan, to Egypt, and to have had their camels laden with ‘spicery, balm and myrrh.’ It was then, and is still, considered one of the most valua- ble medicines that the inhabitants of those countries possess. The virtues, however, which have been ascribed to it exceed all rational bounds of credi- bility. The mode in which it is obtain- ed is described by Mr. Bruce. The bark of the tree is cut with an axe, at a time when its juices are in_ their strongest circulation. These, as they ooze through the wound, are received into small earthen bottles; and every day’s produce is gathered, and poured into a larger bottle, which is closely corked. When the juice first issues from the wound, it is of a light-yellow colour, and a somewhat turbid appear- ance; but, as it settles, it becomes clear, has the colour of honey, and ap- pears more fixed and heavy than at first. Its smell, when fresh, is exquisitely fra- grant, strongly pungent, not much un- like that of volatile salts; but if the bottle be left uncorked, it soon loses this quality. Its taste is bitter, acrid, | (Impatiens triflora). aromatic and astringent. The quantity of balsam yielded by one tree never exceeds 60 drops ina day. Hence its scarcity is such, that the genuine bal- sam is seldom exported as an afticle of commerce. Even at Constantinople, the centre of trade of those countries, it cannot, without great difficulty, be procured. In Turkey, it is in high es- teem as a medicine, an odoriferous un- guent and a cosmetic. But its stimu- lating properties upon the skin are such, that the face of a person unaccustomed to use it becomes red and swollen after its application, and continues so for some days. The Turks also take it in smal] qantities, in water, to fortify the stomach.”—Encyc. Am. BALSAM or LADIES? SLIPPERS The cultivation of this common yet beautiful half hardy annual is so thoroughly understood, as not to require remark farther than ** we believe it to be true, that old seeds produce finer balsams under equal cir- cumstances than new seeds; and the reason is thought to be, that the plants raised from old seeds are not SO vigor- ous as others.??—-Gard. Chron. BALSAM APPLE. Momordica bal- saminea. BALSAMINA. Balsam. Eleven species. Green-house annuals. Seeds. Light rich loamy soil. BALSAMODENDRON § zeylanicum. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. BALSAM-TREE. Clusia. BANANA-TREE. Musa Sa- pientum. BANE-BERRY., Actea. BANNISTERIA. Thirteen species. Chiefly stove evergreen twining plants. Cuttings. Loam and sandy peat. BANKS (sloping), says Mr. Barnes, ‘¢ Are of great advantage in bringing forth vegetation of alh kinds at an early. season in a healthy state, and in the greatest abundance. Another great ad- vantage is their forming a boundary and shelter to the valleys, borders, or slips between them, dividing the quarters, into any desired portions, for the suc- cession of al] vegetable crops, salads, &c. By cropping both sides, the season of the differentarticles is prolonged, and through their being placed in such a healthy situation, I find I can always secure perl ty of salads, lettuce, endive, radishes, cauliflower, and cab- BAN 78. BAR — hp bage-plants. The first early cabbage and peas I have planted in these sloping banks with great advantage. The win- ter endive being cleared and the slopes forked a situation is provided for the first out-door crops of carrots, turnips, radishes, &c. The slopes that are next cleared in succession make provision for the early dwarf kinds of French beans on the south side; and late planted Windsor or other kinds of late beans are planted on the north side, which is found a good situaticn for them; besides forming a shelter to the others by breaking the cold winds. Others are cropped with strawberries on both sides. ‘The slopes that are cleared latest in the spring, are cropped with late cauliflower, with the first planting of early Cape brocoli on the north side, and succession of other vegetables are kept up throughout the season. Byconstantly keeping the sur- face stirred, the crops are all to be seen ina healthy state, progressing ad- mirably in favourable weather through- out the winter months, and indeed, the whole season through. “— Gard. Journ. BANKSIA. Forty-two species. Green-house evergreen shrubs, except B. verticillata, which is a tree. Ripe cuttings or seeds. Sandy peat. BAOBAB-TREE. Adansonia. BAPTISIA. Ten species. Hardy herbaceous plants. Divisions. Common Joamy soil. BARBACENIA squamatosa. Stove herbaceous. Cuttings. Sandy loam. BARBADOES CEDAR. Juniperus barbadensis. BARBADOES CHERRY. Mailpi- ghia. BARBADOES GOOSEBERRY. Pe- reskia. BARBADOES LILY. equestris. BARBAREA, Winter cress. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous plants. Di- vision. Common soil. Amaryllis BARBERRY (Berberis vulgaris). There are five varieties of this elegant | shrub—the red, without and with stones; the black sweet, which is. tender, and | requires a sheltered border; the purple, and the white. Propagation. Suckers, cuttings, and layers may be employed either in the spring or autumn. The seed is very rarely used. Sozl—A sandy, or calcareous soil, with a dry subsoil, suits it best. Culture.—It requires no other prun- ing than such as is necessary to keep it within bounds. Fruit.—This is fully ripe in October, and is gathered in entire bunches for preserving, pickling , and candying. Diseases.—It is liable to be infected with a parasitical fungus, once believed to be the same as that which is known as the mildew on wheat, but they are now known to be different species. That which preys upon the Barberry is Puc- cinia, and that which attacks Wheat is Uredo. Consequently the old popular opinion among farmers, that the mildew on wheat originated on and was propa- gated by the Barberry, has exploded. BARBIERIA polyphylia. Stove jrevergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat. BARK.—The refuse bark from the tanner’s yard is employed by the gar- dener as a.source of heat, and when thoroughly broken down by putrefac- tion, as a manure. | AS a source of heat, it is much less ‘used than formerly, flues, steam, and | the hot water system having very gene- rally and most deservedly superseded it. Bark for heating requires frequent | stirring and renewing, and if too much moisture be added, is apt to give out an excessive and irregular heat. In addition, it is a troublesome harbour for predatory insects. Bark fresh from the tan- yard being thrown lightly together under a shed, must be gently moistened if dry, and turned over twice a week, to expose all its particles to the air. Unless this be done, the fermentation will not be general or regular. tinued for a month or five weeks, in warm weather the shorter time being requisite, and then, having acquired a general and equal heat, it is ready for use in the stove. Usually it will con- tinue to afford heat for a period varying between three and six months, but This is to be con-_ ae BAR 79 BAR —— sometimes ceases to ferment without any apparent cause. Whenever the heat declines, the tan must be taken out, sifted, the dusty parts removed, and some fresh tan added. Sometimes turning the old tan and moistening it will be sufficient. . It is desirable, on the first formation of a bed, to mix new and old tan to- gether, in which case the quantity of new bark to be brought into the pit will depend upon the gocdness of the bark, and the bottom heat required. Asmuch new tan as will fill two third parts of the bark-pit, with a mixture of old rotten, reduced almost to earth, will produce a bottom heat of about 85° ; when old tan with higher remains of strength is used to modify the new, the same heat may be produced if the quan- tity be not more than half the capacity of the pit. This refers to a new pit; after a bark bed has been in action, partial renewals of bark to keep up the | heat are frequently sufficient in the | reduced proportion of one-third, one- sixth, one-twelfth, or less. At inter- mediate stages between the partial renewals, the bed requires only to be excited to a brisker fermentation by forking up. About five-sevenths of the pit from the bottom should be occupied by the new and old tan as a fermenting body; and about two-sevenths from the | top, or a little more than the depth of | the pot, whatever that may be, should consist of old tan incapable of heating, so as to burn the roots of the plants; as least such should be the ordinary distribution of the tan; but where pecu- liar circumstances require a speedy augmentation of heat without displacing the pots, and when fruit is to be swelled off in the Jast stage, the earthy tan at | top may be taken away, and new tan substituted.—( Abercrombie.) Asamanure. See vegetable matiers. | BARK-BOUND.— When a tree is! affected with this disease, cracks wil] appear in it partially, and-in the case of the Cherry, Apricot, Peach, and Necta- rine, gummy exudations will follow. It | is a sure indication that either the soil is too rich, or not sufficiently drained ; - the latter is usually the source of the | | | 'folia, which is ily effects a cure. Scoring the bark lengthwise with a knife is a usual reme- dy, and generally effects the purpose. . BARKING IRONS, or Bark Scalers, are for scraping off the indurated’ epi- dermis, or dry scales, from the stems and branches of trees. BARK STOVE, or Moist Stove, is a hot-house which, either by having a mass of fermenting matter, or an open reservoir of hot water within side, has its atmosphere constantly saturated with moisture, congenially with the habits of some tropical plants. It re- ceived the name of Bark Stove, because tanner’s bark was formerly a chief source of heat employed. (See Stove.) BARKERIA. Two species. Stove epiphytes. Division. Peat and pot- sherds, or wood. BARLERIA. Fourteen species. Stove evergreen shrubs, except B. longi- biennial. Cuttings. Loam and peat. BARNADESIA rosea. green shrub. Cuttings. Rich loam. BARNADIA scilloides. Half hardy bulbous plants. Offsets. Peat and loam. BAROMETER.—Mr. P. Christensen, of Cowes, in the Isle of Wight, Lecturer upon Astronomy, &c., has arranged a table, which no one having a weather- glass should be without. This ‘* Com- panion to the Barometer” is the result of thirty-two years’ observation, and the following is an epitome of the in- formation it gives. During the first six months of the year, when the mercury is rising, if the weather has been bad, and the mercury reaches to 29.62 inches, there will be a change; if to 30.12, the weather will be fair; if to 30.29, set fair. Ifthe mercury has been high, and begins falling, there will be a change if it declines to 29.90; rain, if it descends to 29.50; and wind, with rain, if it reaches 29.12. During the Jast six months of the year, if the weather has been foul, and the mercury begins rising, there will be a change if it reaches to 29.48 ; fair if to 30.13; and set fair if to 30.45. Ifthe weather has been fair, and the mercury begins falling, there will be a change if it sinks to 29.87; rain, ifto 29.55; and Stove ever- evil, causing a repletion of the interior vessels which the dry cuticle cannot! expand sufficiently quickly to accommo- | date. Under-draining, and scrubbing : the stem with brine or soft soap, speed- | wind with rain, if to 29.28. Atany time of the year, if the mercury fall to 28.10, or even to 28.20, there will be stormy weather. These conclusions are from observations made at thirty feet above BAR 80 BAR es the sea’s level, and therefore one one- hundredth part of an inch must be add- ed to the height of the mercury. for every additional ten feet above the sea’s level, where the barometer may happen to be. BARREN PLANTS. Themale flowers of the cucumber, melon, and other monoecious plants, are popularly known as barren flowers; and the plants of the asparagus, mercury, and ether dioecious plants bearing only male plants, are usually termed barren. These are naturally unfruitful ; but there is also a barrenness arising from dis- ease or other consequences of bad cul- | tivation. Ifa tree, or any other plant, does not yield the desired produce of fruit of which it is capable, the gardener may be assured that the soil, or the want of drainage, or the manuring, or the| pruning, is injurious. Even a blind or barren cabbage may be made produc- tive; for its barrenness arises from the central bud being abortive, and it will produce Jateral buds, if all but one leaf and the place of the abortive bud be cut away. Temperature has a great influence over the sex of the flowers produced by a given plant. Avery high tempera- ture caused a water-meion to bear male blossoms only ; and a very low temper- | ature made cucumber plants yield fe- male flowers alone. Mr. Knight had little doubt that the same fruit stalks | might be made, in the plants just no- ticed, to support flowers of either sex in obedience to external causes. BARREN SOIL. No soil is abso- jutely incapable of production; and when it is spoken of as being barren, no | more is meant than that in its present state it will not repay the cultivator. The unproductiveness arises from a de- ficiency of some of the earths; from an excess or deficiency of animal and ve- getable matters; or from an excess of stagnant water. No soil can be pro- ductive where nineteen parts out of twenty are of any one earth or other substance. If either chalk, or sand, or clay, be in excess, the remedy i is found in adding one or both of the other two. An excess of organic matter only occurs in peat soils, and these are reclaimed by draining, paring, and burning, and the addition of earthy matter; drain- age is also the cure for an excess of water. BARRINGTONIA speciosa. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam and peat. ; BARTHOLINA pectinata. trial orchid. Offsets. is BARTON, Benjamin S., M. D., Pro- fessor in the University of Pennsylva- nia. Born at Lancaster, Pa., 1766. Died Dec., 1815. In 1789 appointed | Professor of Natural History and Botany /in the Coliege of Philadelphia. His chief publication is Elements of Zoolo- | gy and Botany. BARTONIA. Four species. annuals and pesions Seed. loam. BARTRAM, John, one of the most distinguished Ge Ambriéan botanists, was born in Chester county, Pennsylva- nia, in 1701. His grandfather, of the same name, accompanied William Penn to this country, in 1682.—B. was a sim- ple farmer. He cultivated the ground for subsistence, while he indulged an insatiable appetite for botany. He was self-taught in that science, and in the rudiments of the Jearned languages, and medicine and surgery. So great, in the end, was his proficiency in his favourite. pursuit, that Linneus pro- nounced him ‘‘the greatest natural botanist in the world..?) He made ex- cursions, in the intervals of agricultural labour, to Florida and Canada, herboriz- ing with intense zeal and delight. At the age of 70, he performed a journey to East Florida, to explore its natural productions; at a period, too, when the toils and dangers of such an expedition |far exceeded those of any similar one which could be undertaken, at the pre- sent time, within the limits of the U. States. He first formed a botanic gar- den in America, for the cultivation of American plants, as well as exotics. This garden, which is situated on the banks of the Schuylkill, a few miles from Philadel] phia, still bears his name. He contributed much to the gardens of Eu- rope, and corresponded with the most | distinguished naturalists of that quarter of the, globe. Several foreign societies and academies bestowed their honours upon him, and published communica- tions from him in their transactions. B. |died in 1777, in the 76th year of his age. At the time of his death he held the office of American botanist to George III. of England. He was amia- Terres- Sandy Joam and Hardy Sandy BAR 81 ——_o——_ ble and charitable, and of the strictest robity and temperance. BARTRAM, William, fourth son of John B., was born, 1739, at the botanic. garden, Kingsessing, Pennsylvania. At the age of 16 years, he was placed with a respectable merchant of Philadelphia, with whom he continued six years; after which he went to North Carolina, with a view of doing business there as ‘a merchant; but, being ardently at- tached to the study of botany, he re- linquished his mercantile pursuits, and accompanied his father in a journey into East Florida, to explore the na- tural] productions of that country; after which he settled on the river St. John’s, in this region, and finally returned, about the year 1771, to his father’s resi- dence. In 1773, at the request of Dr. Fothergill, of London, he embarked for Charleston, to examine the natura] productions of the Floridas, and the western parts of Carolina and Georgia, chiefly in the vegetable kingdom. In this employment he was engaged nearly five years, and made numerous contri- butions to the natural history of the country through which he travelled. His collections and drawings were for- warded to Doctor Fothergill; and, about the year 1790, he published an account of his travels and discoveries, in 1 vol. 8vo., with an account of the manners and customs of the Creeks, Cherokees, and Choctaws. This work soon acquired extensive popularity, and is still frequently consulted.—Afiter his return from his travels, he devoted him- self to science, and, in 1782, was elect- ed Professor of Botany in the University of Pennsylvania, which post he de- clined, in consequence of the state of his health. In 1786, he was elected a member of the American Philosophical Society, and was a member of several other learned societies in Europe and America. We are indebted to him for the knowledge of many curious and beautiful plants peculiar to North Ame- rica, and for the most complete and correct table of American ornithology, before the work of Wilson, who was assisted by him in the commencement of his American Ornithology. He wrote an article on the natural history of a plant a few minutes before his death, which happened suddenly, by the rup ture of a blood-vessel in the lungs, July 22, os in the 85th year of his age. BAS ; BARYOSMA.. Six species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and sand. BASELLA. Eight species. Stove biennial climbers chiefly. Seed. Rich light soil. BASIL. (Ocymum.) There are two kinds, the Sweet-scented (0. basilicum), and the Dwarf-bush (O. minimum). Soil and situation.—T hey thrive most in a rich light soil, entirely free from any overshadowing body; but they re- quire, especially for the earliest plants, a sheltered border. Time and mode of sowing.—They are propagated by seed, which may be sown in a gentle hot-bed, with the shelter of a frame at the close of March, or early in April; to be thinned, and those re- moved pricked out at the close of this latter month ina similar situation, to be finally removed in the course of May or commencement of June, when settled weather, in the open ground. This sowing may be repeated at the close of April, or beginning of May, on a warm border, to be pricked and finally planted out, after a lapse of about five weeks respectively between each operation. When thinned, the seedlings must be left at three inches apart, and those re- moved pricked out at a similar distance. The final planting must be made in rows a foot apart each way. Some plants of all the sowing may be left where raised, to be gathered from whilst young. Water must be given at every removal, as well as during every stage of their growth, when dry weather occurs. Weeds must be kept under, as well as the plants benefited by frequent hoeing. The young leaf tops are the parts made use of in soups and salads, their flavour resembling that of cloves. The supply is never failing during summer, as they shoot out rapidly for successive supplies. To obtain seed.—Some of the earliest raised plants must be left ungathered from. .These flower from July to Sep- tember, and accordingly ripen their seed in early or late autumn. BASKETS employed by the London gardeners, being made of osier or deal shavings, vary triflingly in size more than measures made of less flexible materials. They are as follows:— Sea kale punnets—eight inches diame- ter at the top, and seven inches and a half at the bottom, and two inches deep. BAS 82 BEA —_—o—- Radish punnets—eight inches diame- ter, and one inch deep, if to hold six hands; or nine inches by one inch for twelve hands, Mushroom punnets—seven inches by one inch. Salading punnets——five inches by two inches. Half sieve—contains three imperial gallons and a half. It averages twelve inches and a half diameter, and six inches in depth. Sieve—contains seven imperial gal- Jons. Diameter, fifteen inches; depth, eight inches. Bushel sieve—ten imperial gallons and a half. Diameter at top, seventeen inches and three quarters; at bottom, seventeen inches; depth, eleven inches and a quarter. Bushel basket—ought, when heaped, to contain an imperial bushel. Diame- ter at bottom ten inches; at top, four- teen inches and a half; depth, seven- teen inches. Walnuts, nuts, apples, and potatoes are sold by this measure. A bushel of the last-named, cleaned, weighs fifty-six pounds, but four pounds additional are allowed if they are not washed. There is one description of Basket of which we think the Londoners know but little. We alludeto the Peach Bas- ket! It would excite no ordinary com- motion were one of our noble steam- boats to ascend the Thames, laden with a thousand or more baskets, each con- taining a bushel of ripe luscious peaches, which are frequently sold in Philadel- phia at twenty-five cents the basket. Yet such is the sight which may be seen (in fruitful seasons) on the Dela- ware every day in August. BASS, or BAST MATS. These are chiefly made in Russia, from the inner bark of trees (bast in the Russ language), Their best use is as a packing envelope, for as a protection to wall trees they are inferior to netting; and to standard shrubs, structures made of straw (see Shelters) are to be preferred. They are very serviceable, however, to place over beds of early spring radishes, &c., to prevent the night radiation. This is quite as effectual, much cleaner, and less troublesome than a covering of straw, The strands of these mats are used by Nurserymen as binding, when budding or engrafting, and are the best adapted to the purpose of any material known. Where it is not obtainable, coarse loosely spun cotton or woollen yarn, is a good substitute. BASSIA. Three species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. BASTARD ACACIA. Robinia pseu- do-acacia. BASTARD ACMELLA. Spilanthes pseudo-acmella. ] BASTARD CABBAGE TREE. Geof- froya. BASTARD CEDAR, Guazuma. BASTARD CHERRY. Cerasus pseu- do-cerasus. BASTARD CINNAMON. Cinnamo- mum-cassia. BASTARD CORK TREE. Quercus pseudo-suber. BASTARD DICTAMNUS. Beringe- ria pseudo-dictamnus. BASTARD HARE’S EAR. Phyllis. BASTARD JASMINE. Androsace chamejasme. BASTARD ALBIA. Lavatera pseu- do-albia, BASTARD QUINCE. Pyrus chame- mespilus, : BASTARD WIND-FLOWER. Gen- tiana pseudo-pneumonanthe. BATATAS. Twelve species. Chiefly stove deciduous climbers. Young cut- tings. Light rich soil. BATEMANNIA Collegi. Stove epiphyte. Bulbs. Peatand potsherds. BATSCHIA. Four species. Hardy herbaceous, Seeds and division. Com- mon soil, BAUERA. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sand and peat. BAUHINIA. Forty-six species. Stove evergreen shrubs or climbers. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. BAY TREE, Laurus nobilis, will resist the winter nearly as far north as Philadelphia, on light. soils. Its aroma- tic leaves render it an agreeable inmate of the garden. BEAD TREE. Melia. BEAN. Vicia faba, of Linneus. Feve demarais, Fr. Bohn, Ger. Fava, Ital. Habas, Span. ** Of the above kind, com- monly called in this country ‘ Horse Bean,’ there is considerable variety ; two of them have been selected by us for cultivation, believing them the best adapted for the climate, and quite suffi- cient of the kind. They ure the Early Long Pod and Broad Windsor. Both BEA 83 BEA ——§—— succeed with the same treatment, but the first named is the more certain bearer of the two. In England, where they are extensively cultivated, they do much better than in this country, pre- ferring its damp, cool atmosphere, to our frequently dry and hot one; to counteract which it is desirable to plant as early in the spring, as the ground will admit of being worked—in the lati- tude of Philadelphia (399 57: N.) the latter part of February, or beginning of March, if possible ; they then come into flower before the weather becomes hot, otherwise the blossoms drop, and set no fruit. ithe ‘¢ Plant them in drills, either single or double, two inches apart in the drills, and cover one to two inches deep. If in double drills, with alleys two anda half feet wide. If in single rows, two feet alleys answer, unless it be intend- ed to cultivate them with the horse hoe, as is done by market gardeners. *¢' Those who are particularly fond of this bean, can accelerate the crop by setting a frame atthe close of winter, under the Jee of a board fence, or other protected situation, exposed to the sun, which cover with glass, and in severe weather with matting or straw, so as effectually to exclude the frost. Herein plant the beans, one seed to the square inch, and Jet them remain, until the arrival of milder weather, when they should be transplanted to the position in the garden which it is intended they shall occupy. In transplanting them, care should be taken not to injure the roots, to guard against which, use a trowel to ease them up, and suffer as much earth as will to adhere. During the time they remain in the frame, the sash should be raised when the weather is mild, to admit the air, and gradually harden them, preparatory to full expo- sure when transplanted, else the sudden change of temperature might prove fatal. In order to make them set fruit more certainly, it is the practice to nip off the top of leading shoots when they are in full flower; this checks the growth, and directs the strength of the plant towards the blossoms. If a part of the flowers are destroyed in this ope- | ration, there is no loss. *¢ Whilst the crop is growing and pro- gressing towards maturity, keep the ground well hoed, and freed from weeds. When the plants have attained six or eight inches in height, draw to- wards their base a portion of loose earth, which will encourage them to put forth fresh fibres, and protect the roots already formed, from the sun’s rays.”—Rural Register. BEANS, Kidney. Haricot, Fr. Schminkbohne, Ger. Judias, Span. Fa- guiolo, Ital.—** Of the Snap-Short Bean, the Haricot of the French, the varieties and sub-varieties are numerous. The Early Mohawk or Brown Six Weeks arrives soonest at perfection, and is the hardiest of the early ones; the Early Yellow, Red Speckled Valentine, and China Red Eye, immediately succeed. The Red French is about the latest: other varieties ripen promiscuously. All the kinds are brought to the Philadel- phia market; some purchasers prefer- ring one, and others another. ‘The Red Speckled Valentine is a variety very generally admired ; it is round podded, without strings, an abundant bearer, and remains tender longer than most others. The Brown Valentine or Re- fugee is an excellent variety, as is also the China Red Eye. The pods of the Red French are used as well for pickling as boiling, and the beans throughout the winter in a dry state, as haricots, and in soups, for which it is usually preferred. ‘©The usual plan of cultivating this tribe is in drills, double or single, two inches apart in the drills; two to two and a half feet should be allowed be- tween the drills. They are much more tender than’ the Long Pod or Windsor, and will, not succeed, if planted before the weather has become somewhat settled, and the earth warm ; in the latitude of Philadelphia, not ear- lier than April, unless in very dry ground, and protected situations. To have a constant supply, it will be neces- sary to plant successive crops at inter- vals of two or three weeks, which is much preferable to planting but seldom, and then a larger quantity. Plantations made so late as Ist August generally succeed and yield abundantly. «¢ When they have risen three or four inches, give them a careful hoeing, to destroy all weeds, and Joosen the earth. At this time, or shortly after, draw to- wards the base of the plants some of the loose soil, to the depth of one or two inches. This process is termed ‘landing,’ and is highly beneficial in BEA 84 BED nes protecting the roots from excessive drought, and the direct rays of the sun. As the crop approaches matu- rity, nothing more is required than an occasional hoeing, observing always to keep the ground free from weeds. ‘‘In selecting a spot to plant beans, | choose where the soil is light and tole- rably dry. If it be poor, apply a good dressing of well rotted manure, either spread over the entire surface, or placed the drills when drawn out.””—Rural Reg. BEANS, Pole.—** The Scar.er Run- ners, and Wuite Durcu Beans, are yery delicately flavored, and are used either in the pod, or shelled when fur- ther advanced; but in Pennsylvania, and perhaps farther south, they bear so sparingly most seasons, as to be scarcely worth cultivating. «¢ The Lima is too well known to need description. Two varieties are culti- vated ; the one broad and thin, the other much thicker. We have sometimes thought the latter the more tender and delicate when boiled. The Lima Bean is very tender, not bearing the slightest frost, and is very subject to rot when | ph planted early, or during a spell of rainy or damp, cool weather. To guard against this, the best plan is to sprout them in a frame, (as recommended for the Long Pod or Windsor,) so situated that the damp and frost can be exclud- ed. An old hot-bed answers the pur- pose effectually. They need not be planted therein before the middle of spring, nor transplanted till towards its close; a little earlier or later as the weather may make expedient; if planted early, they will at best remain station- ary, and may, perhaps, perish. They should be planted in hills in well culti- vated ground, dressed either in the piece or hills, with thoroughly rotted manure, from the barn-yard. The hills should be raised three or four inches above the average level, and be three feet apart each way, with a pole six or eight feet high, well secured in the ground, to | each hill. Three plants in a hill are sufficient. As the vines shoot up, they should be tied to the poles, till they get hold, when they will support them | selves. In tying them, observe to do it in the direction in which they incline to clasp the pole, which is contrary to the course of the sun, and opposed to the habit of most climbers. ‘Those who have not the convenience of a frame, (or hand-glass, which will answer the same purpose,) should have the hills prepared aud poles inserted, choosing a mild, dry time, about the close of May, for planting the beans. If wet weather should immediately suc- ceed, and the seed rot, replant as soon as the ground dries. Good crops have been produced in the vicinity of Phila- delphia, when planted even so late as first of June. “¢ After they become well established, and have clasped the poles, no further care is requisite, other than keeping the weeds under, and the hills occa- sionally stirred. “ The Canorina or SeweEe bean, is of a smaller size than the Lima; moch hardier, rather earlier, and more pro- ductive, but generally considered less ricb. In other respects they closely resemble each other—time of planting may be a little in advance of the Lima —cultivation precisely the same.”— Rural Register. BEAN-CAPER. Tygophyllum. BEARS-BANE. Aconitum thereo- onum. BEAR-BIND. Calystegia. BEARS-BREECH. Acanthus. BEARS-GRAPE. Arctostaphylos uva Ursi. BEAUFORTIA. Five species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat.. BEAUMONTIA. Two species. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings and seed. Loam and peat. BECIUM bicolor. Green-house shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam. BED is a comprehensive word, ap- plicable to the site on which any culti- vated plants are grown. It is most correctly confined to narrow divisions, purposely restricted in breadth for the convenience of hand weediue or other requisite culture. BEDDING-IN. See Sowing. BEDDING-OUT, is removing plants from the pots in which they have been raised, into the beds which they are in- tended to adorn during suramer and autumn. Mr. Threlkeld gives this judi- cious advice upon the practice. If the season be dry, in the bottom of the hole made for the plant put some rotten dung, or other material that will retain water; water this well, plant, fill the hole to within two inches of. the sur- face, add more water, and then fill up BED the hole. If water is necessary after- wards, hoe the beds when dry enough. Damp the leaves, if no appearance of dew.—Gard. Chron. The following are good plants for bedding out in masses : —For large beds, Pelargoniums, espe- cially the scarlet, Fuchsias and Pen- stemon gentianoides coccineus. For smaller beds, Petunia superba, beauty, and splendens; Gailardia picta ; Qino- thera Drummondii; Verbena .astrosan- guinea, Bishopii, Taglionii, and Queen ; and Lobelia splendens. | BEDEGUAR. See Cynips Rose. BEE, (Apis.) All the species of this insect are friendly to the gardener, for they all aid in impregnating his flowers, many of which without their aid would fall unproductive of either fruit or seed. The honey bee (A. meliifica) is the most active in this operation ; but the humble bee (Bombus apis), and others of the robust species, are very valuable, being able to visit flowers in rough weather, when the honey bee will not venture from its hive. BEECH. Fagus. BEET. Betterave, Fr. Rothe Riibe, Ger. BORRERIA. Threespecies. Stove or green-house. Cuttings. Common soil. BOSCIA. senegalensis. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Rich clayey loam. - BOSEA yervamora. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat. si BOSTRICHUS, a class of beetles, many of which’are very injurious to the crops of the garden. — B. dispar, Apple bark beetle. The female of this insect bores into the wood of the apple tree, and there depo- sits her eggs, generally in the month of May; and its perforations are so nume- rousand extensive, as frequently, on the continent, to destroy the tree. In Eng- Jand it rarely occurs. The perforations are confined to the alburnum of the wood. SH gen ' B. typographus, Typographer bark beetle. This attacks the pine tribe, especially the silver fir. B. pinastri, Pinaster, or red bark beetle, confines its attacks to the pines, leaving the firs untouched, as the B.: sana lives exclusively on the larch, Loam and peat. and the B. orthographus on the spruce fir. BOSWELLIA, Alibanum tree. Two species. Stove evergreen trees. Cut- tings. Loam and peat. BOTANY BAY TREE, Smilax gly- cyphylla. BOTRYCHIUM, Moonwort. Six spe- cies. Hardy ferns. Division, or seed. BOTTOM HEAT. Naturally the temperature of the soil always bears a due relative proportion to that of the air. When the temperature of the air decreases, that of the soil also de- creases, but very slowly ; and when the atmospheric heat increases, that of the soil also gradually rises. Bottom heat, or heat applied below the roots of plants, is the artificial mode of imitating this’ proceeding of nature in our hot- houses, and other structures of that kind. _If the temperature of the soil be too cold in proportion to the temperature of the atmosphere, the roots are not stimulated sufficiently to imbibe food as fast as it is required by the branches and foliage, and as a consequence the leaves or fruit will fall or wither. * On the, other hand, if the temperature of the soil be too great in proportion to that of the atmosphere, the roots absorb food faster than it can be elaborated by the branches and leaves, and as a conse- quence, over luxuriant shoots, and an extra development of leaves, are caused instead ‘of blossoms, and a healthy pro- gress in all the parts. Every plant obviously will have a particular bottom heat most congenial to it. Plants growing in open plains, as at the Cape of Good Hope, will re- quire a higher bottom heat than those growing in the shade of the South Ame- rican forests, though the temperature of the air out of the shade may be the same in each country. That gardener will succeed in exotic plant-culture best, who among his other knowledge has ascertained the relative temperature of the air and soil in which any given plant grows naturally. At present, such in- formation from actual observation is not obtainable, but it is not so difficult to ascertain the maximum and minimum temperature of the air of a country; and this being obtained, the gardener may adopt this as a safe rule. Let the bottom heat for plants of that country be always 5° higher than the average BOU 98 BRE_ se Ban temperature, or ifthe average maximum temperature of the air only be known, let the bottom heat be less by 10° than the maximum temperature of the air. Dr. Lindley very justly observes upon this subject, that ‘“‘we have doubtless much to learn as to the proper manner of applying bottom heat to plants, and as to the amount they will bear under particular circumstances. It is in par- ticular probable, that in hot-houses plants will not bear the same quantity of bottom heat as they receive in na- ture, because we cannot give them the same amount of light and atmospheric warmth; and it is necessary that we should ascertain experimentally whether it is not a certain proportion between the heat of the air and“earth that we must secure, rather than any absolute amount of bottom heat. “Tt may also be, indeed it no doubt is, requisite to apply a very high degree of heat to some kinds of plants at particu- lar seasons, although a very much lower amount is suitable afterwards; a remark that is chiefly applicable to the natives of what are called extreme climates, that is to say, where a very high sum- mer temperature is followed by a very low winter temperature ; such countries are Persia, and many parts of the United States, where the summers are exces- sively hot, and the winter’s cold intense. The seeming impossibility of imitating such conditions artificially, will proba- bly account for many of the difficulties Wwe experience in bringing certain fruits, the Newtown pippin, the cherry, the grape, the peach, and the almond, to the perfection they acquire in other countries.?’—Theory of Horticulture. BOURGEON, or Burgeon. See Bud. BOURRERIA. Two Species. Stove evergreen trees, Cuttings. Sandy loam. BOUSSINGAULTIA baselloides.— Halfhardy bulbous perennial. Seeds. Common soil. BOUVARDIA. Five species. Green- house or stove evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings or division. Loam and peat. BOWER. See Arvor. BOX (Burus sempervirens), is noticed by the gardener chiefly as a plant suita- ble for edgings. For this purpose it is neat, and certainly the best article used. In some gardens it is suffered to attain too great bulk, and then becomes rather a defect than ornament, exhausting the soil, and presenting a safe lurking place for insects; it should not be allowed to rise higher than six or eight inches, and as much in breadth—if necessary to re- strain its growth, transplant. The best seasons for planting box are at mid- summer, and early in the spring. Small rooted slips are employed, and are planted against the perpendicular side of a small trench along the edge of the border or bed they are desired to bound. The best month for clipping box is June, and it should be done in alowery weather. BRABEJUM stellatum. Green-house evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. BRACHYCOME tberidifolia. ‘‘Seeds of this,?? says Dr. Lindley, «* should be sown in March in pots or shallow pans, filled with light rich soil, and well drained, and the pots should be planged in a gentle hot-bed. As soon as the young plants are established, they must be kept in a green-house; shilt into larger pots as they require it. Those that are to be grown out of doors should be planted out in a prepared bed early, say by the end of May, in order that they may perfect their seeds in Sep- tember or early in October.”—Gard, Chron. BRACHYL/ENA nereifolia. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy eat. BRACHYSEMA. Two species. Green-house evergreen climbers. Lay- ers, cuttings, or seeds. Sandy loam and peat. BRACHYSTELMA. Stove tuberous-rooted perennials. tings. Sandy loam. BRASSAVOLA. Twelve species. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood. BRASSIA. Eleven species. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood. BRASSICA. The cabbage tribe. See Brocoli, Cauliflower, &c. BRAYA. Two species. B. alpina, a hardy herbaceous perennial; B. pilosa, a hardy evergreen shrub. Seeds. Loamy eat. BREAKING. A Tulip’s flower is broken when it has attained its perma- nent colors. A bulbous root is said to break when its foliage begins to be thrust forth. BREMONTIERA ammozylon. Shave evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam. BRESIA. Three species. Stove Two species. Cut- BRI 99 BRI ———}- evergreen trees. Cuttings. Turfy loam and peat. BRICKS. As the gardener often may require to know how many bricks will be required for an intended struc- ture, it will be a guide for him to know that all bricks sold in England are re- quired by statute (17 Geo. 3, c. 42) to be eight and a half inches long, four inches wide, and two and a half inches thick. Pantiles, by the same authority, must be thirteen anda half inches long, nine and a half inches. wide, and half an inch thick. ; ! BRIDGES are inconsistent with the nature of a lake, but characteristic ofa river; they are on that account used in landscape gardening to disguise a ter- mination ; but the deception has been so often practised, that it no longer de- ceives, and a bolder aim at the same effect will now be more successful. If the end can be turned just out of sight, a bridge at some distance raises a belief, while the water beyond it removes every doubt, of the continuation of the river; the supposition immediately oc- curs, that if a disguise had been in- tended, the bridge would have been placed further back, and the disregard thus shown to one deception gains credit for the other. As a bridge is not a mere appendage to a river, but a kind of property which denotes its character, the connexion between them must be attended to; from the 'want of it, the single wooden arch once much in fashion, seemed generally misplaced; elevated without occasion so much above it, it was to- tally detached from the river ; and often. seen straddling in the air, without a glimpse of the water to account for it, and the ostentation of it as an orna- mental object diverted all that train of ideas which its use as a communication might suggest. The vastness of Walton Bridge cannot without affectation be mimicked in a garden where the mag- nificent idea of inducting the Thames under one arch is wanting ; and where the structure itself, reduced toa narrow scale, retains no pretension to great-. ness. Unless the situation make sucha height necessary, or the point of view be greatly above it, or wood or rising ground instead of sky behind it fill up _the vacancy of the arch, it seems an effort without a cause, forced and pre- posterous. The vulgar footbridge of planks, only guarded on one hand by a common rail, and supported by a few ordinary piles, | is often more proper. It is perfect asa communication, because it pretends to nothing further, it is the utmost sim- plicity of cultivated nature; and if the banksfrom which it starts be of a mode- rate height, its elevation preserves it from meanness. No other species so effectually cha- racterizes a river ; it seems too plain for an ornament, too obscure for a disguise 5 it must be for use, it-can be a passage only ; it is therefore spoiled if adorned, it is disfigured if only painted of any other than a dusky colour. But being thus incapable of all decoration and im- portance, it is often too humble for a great, and too simple for an elegant scene. A stone bridge is generally more suitable to either, but in that also | an extraordinary elevation compensates for the distance at which it leaves the water below. A gentle rise and easy sweep more closely preserve the relation ; a certain degree of union should also be formed between the banks and the bridge, that it may seem to rise out of the banks, not barely to be imposed upon them ; it ought not generally to swell much above their level, the parapet wall should be. brought down near to the ground, or end against some swell, and the size and the uniformity of the abut- ments should be broken by hillocks or thickets about them; every expedient should be used to mark the connexion of the building, both with the ground from which it starts, and the water which it crosses. In wild and romantic scenes may be introduced a.ruined stone bridge, of which some arches may be still stand- ing, and the loss of those which are fallen may be supplied by a few planks, witha rail thrown over the vacancy. It is a picturesque object, it suits the situ- ation and the antiquity of the passage; the care taken to keep it still open, though the original building is decayed, the apparent necessity which thence re- sults for a communication, give it- an imposing air of reality.—Whateley. BRINING. See Steeping. BROADCAST, is a mode of sowing now rapidly falling into disuse in the garden as well as in the field. It has no one advantage over sowing in drills, BRO 100 BRO aeece See except that the work of sowing is done more expeditiously. Subsequently, the saving is all on the side of the drill sys- tem. See Drilling.- 1 know of no sowing where the broadcast mode is preferable, except in the case of grass seeds upon lawns. Loudon thus de- scribes the operation of broadcast sow- ing:—‘‘ The seed is taken up in por- tions in the hand, and dispersed by a horizontal movement of the arm to the extent of a semicircle, opening the hand at the same time, and scattering the seeds in the air, so as they may fall as equally as possible over the breadth taken in .by the sower at, once, and which is generally six feet, that being the diameter of the circle in which his hand moves through half the circum- ference. In sowing broadcast on the surface of his beds, and in narrow strips or borders, the seeds are dispersed between the thumb and fingers by hori- zontal movements of the hand in seg- ments of smaller circles.” © BROCCOLI. Thesame in Eng., Fr., and Ital. Italienische Kohl, Ger. Bro- culi, Span. ‘* This exquisite vegetable resembles the cauliflower in growth, ap- pearance, and flavour, and is supposed to have originated from it. Someof the varieties produce white heads, others purple, sulphur coloured, &c. It is cul- tivated with less trouble than the cauli- flower, and heads with more certainty. The autumn is the season in which it is generally perfected, but with proper management may frequently be had throughout the winter and spring. ‘¢ The varieties are extensive, and differ in the time of ripening, as well as hardiness. Those we have cultivated with most success are the purple cape, sulphur coloured, and early cauliflower broccoli. There are also several other autumnal kinds, such as the green cape, early purple, early white, cream-co- loured, or Portsmouth, &c.; but the purple cape is much the most certain to head, indeed the only one to be re- * lied on in this climate. Our plan of cultivation has been, to sow the seed from the middle to latter end of spring; séransplanting them when they attain the size at which cabbage plants are gene- rally put out. «« Should the weather prove very dry at the petiods in. which it is proper to sow, some difficulty may be found in getting the seed to vegetate; in that case choose a.spot shaded from the mid-day sun, and cover the bed with straw litter, lightly spread over the sur- face, which suffer to remain until the seeds sprout, when it should be imme- diately removed. Bass mats or cloths are sometimes used for this purpose; they should be removed every evening, and replaced in the morning, else the seed loses the benefit of the dew. ‘¢ A few observations only are neces- sary as to the progressive culture of the broccoli. Having, in the first place, selected a deeply dug, rich piece of ground, and planted them therein as you would cabbage plants, allowing them rather more room, do not neglect to hoe and stir the ground, keeping it perfectly clean and free from weeds; when they are six or eight inches high, land them up, that is, with the hoe draw around the base of the plants some of the loose soil, forming it like a basin, the stock of the plant being the centre. If dry weather ensue, give an occasional watering, which will greatly facilitate their growth. ; f «¢ The earlier sowings will commence heading early in the autumn; the latter sown plants, many of them will show no appearance of heading before winter. On the approach of black frost they are to be removed to some sheltered situa- tion, and “ laid in,?? after the manner of winter cabbage; that is, burying the stalk entirely up to the lower leaves, the crown projecting at an angle of 45 degrees. They are more tender than the cabbage, and require to be protected against severe frost, which may readily be done by setting over them frames, such as are placed on hot- beds, and cover with shutters, or by setting boards on edge around them, the back the highest, on which lay a cover- ing of boards similar to a roof. Thus they are sheltered from frost, and undue quantities of rain. As the winter ad- - vances, and the frost becomes more se- vere, give an additional covering, of straw scattered loosely -immediately over the plants inside the board cover- ing. In this situation they- will remain secure, some of them heading from time to time during the winter, and most of them producing fine heads in spring. Care should be observed to remove the straw covering on the arrival of spring, and to raise the shutters or boards in fine weather, that air may be freely ad- BRO mitted, removing them entirely the lat- ter part of March. «¢ Tt is the practice of some who have _ light dry cellars, to place them therein, when removing them in the autumn, _burying the roots and stalks as above directed. In that situation they re- quire no further care or protection. Broccoli is sometimes sown about the ‘middle of September, the plants pre- _ served in frames during winter, and put out in the spring. They are, by no means certain to succeed well at that season; a few nevertheless might be thus managed, as they will generally head in the autumn, when failing to do so during the summer months. *¢ All the Brassica or Cabbage tribe is subject to be preyed upon by various insects, the most destructive of which in this country is the ‘ Black Fly’ (Haltica nemorum); and -in such im- mense quantities do they sometimes appear, and so voracious their appetite, that extreme difficulty is found in pro- tecting the young plants from their depredations. As-soon as they appear, take wood ashes, mixed with one-third air-slaked lime, and sprinkle over the entire plants, first wetting the leaves that the dust may adhere; this should be repeated as often as it flies off, or is washed off by rain. An application of lime water is also beneficial; it is disa- greeable to the fly as well as the slug ; the latter insect preys much upon them in damp weather. Butthe most certain preventive is a solution of whale-oil | soap—a solution of common soft-soap or brown-soap, would probably answer the purpose; the alkali therein is par- ticularly offensive to that troublesome intruder.”°—Rural Register. BRODLAA. Two species. B. con- gesta, green-house ; B. grandiflora, half hardy bulbous perennials. i es Sandy peat. BROMELIA. Fifteen species. Chiefly stove herbaceous perennials. B. disco- lor is an evergreen shrub; B. exrudans, anepiphyte. Suckers. Rich loamy soil. BROMHEADIA palustris. Stove epi- phyte. Offsets. Peat and potsherds. BRONGNIARTIA, podalyrioides. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. BROOM. See Besom: ; BROSIMUM. Two species. evergreen shrubs. soil. Stove Cuttings: Loamy 101 BRU BROTERA, corymbosa. Hardy herb- aceous perennial. Division. Loam and eat. BROUGHTONIA. Two __ species. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood. BROUSSONETIA. Two species. Hardy deciduous trees. Cuttings. Light open soil. BROWALLIA. Four species. Green« house annuals. Seeds. Rather sandy soil. BROWNEA. Five species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. BROWNLOWIA elata. Cuttings. Stove ever- green tree. Sandy loamy soil. BRUCHUS, a genus of beetles. B. granarius and B. pisi are greatly destructive to our pea crops. They are small brownish beetles, usually found at the same time the plants are in flower, and they deposit their eggs in the ten- der seeds of leguminous plants, and sometimes in different kinds of corn. In these the larva, a small white fleshy grub, finds both a suitable habitation and an abundance of food. It under- goes all its transformations in the seed, and the perfect insect remains in it till the spring, though in fine autumns the perfect insects appear at that season also. The larve possess the singular instinct of never attacking the vital part of the seed till the last. We have often observed the seed pods of chorozema, and other delicate and scarce leguminous plants in green- houses, pierced by the Bruchus pist. The more effectual remedy is to pull up and burn the haulm and pods alto- gether, and not attempt to get a crop at all. Peasinfested with B. granarius, are always known by a small hole being on one side, and these should be care- fully picked out, as they not only spoil the appearance ofa sample, but spread the injury. BRUGMANSIA. Four species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. B. Way- manitt is a stove evergreen tree. Cut- tings. Rich soil. BRUISE. See Canker. BRUNIA. Eighteen species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy peat. RRUNNICHIA cirrhosa. Green-house evergreen climber. Cuttings. Loamy soil. : BRUNONIA australis. Hardy herb- BRU aceous perennial. Division. Loamy soil. A frame or cool green-house is suited for its growth. BRUNSFELSIA. Four species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Good rich soil. \ BRUNSVIGIA. ‘Thirteen species. Green-house bulbous perennials. Off- sets. Rich mould. The bulbs, while dormant, which is during winter, are kept in a cool green- house, itsas dry and airy a place as possible, until they begin to show leaves; then to be potted in three parts good turfy loam, one’ part leaf-mould and a little silver sand, and placed so that they have the full benefit of the light. When the leaves have grown to about twelve inches in length, plunge in a strong bottom heat, and allow to remain till the flower-stem pushes clear of the leaves, which will be in about four or five weeks. They must then be gra- dually hardened off and returned to the ' green-house, there to expand their blos- soms, which consist of a number of from twenty to thirty flowers. After flowering, every care must be taken of the foliage, by exposing it to the full influence of the sun, and giving plenty of water. When the plants show an inclination to rest, water must be altogether with- held. BRYA. Two species. Stove ever- green shrubs. Cuttings or seed. Very rich soil, BRYOPHYLLUM calicinum. Stove evergreen shrub. Leaves. Rich loamy soil. BUCIDA buceras. Stove evergreen tree. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. BUDS. The buds are organized parts of a plant, ofan ovate or conical form. and containing the rudiments of future branches, leaves, and flowers, which | remain latent until circumstances favour theirdevelopment. The same buds ac- cordingly, as circumstances vary, pro- duce either, flowers or leaves. Buds spring from the alburnum, to which they are always connected by central vessels. BUDDING is the art of making a bud wnite to the stem or branch (then called the stock) of another tree or shrub, in- dependently from its parent. The ob- ject thus attained is a rapid multiplica- | tion of that parent; and in the case of seedlings, an earlier production of fruit 102 BUD than if the buds were left upon the pa- rent. Delicate kinds are strengthened by being worked, as it is technically termed, upon more robust stocks, as when a tender vine is budded on the Syrian, and the double yellow rose upon the common China. Variegated roses often lose their distinctive marks if grown upon their own roots. Roses budded npon the common brier afford finer flowers than upon their own stems. Buds from seedling peaches and pears are earlier productive—and produce finer fruit— budded upon a_ robust stock ; but buds of the pear inserted earlier than the close of August, pro- duce branches and not blossoms. Where the bud comes in contact with the wood of the stock, a confused line iS visible, between which line and the bark of the bud new wood is produced, having solely all the characteristics of the pa- rent of the bud. Buds of almost every species succeed with most certainty if inserted in shoots of the same year’s growth: but the small walnut buds suc- ceed best which are taken from the base of the annual shoots, where these join the year old wood of that from which the bud is taken. Buds are usually two years later than grafts in producing fruit, but then every bud will produce a new plant, but each graft has at least three uponit. Buds succeed more rea- dily than gratts, and if a graft inserted in the spring has failed, a bud may suc- ceed in the summer of the same year. Buds are ready for removal when their shield, or bark attached to them, sepa- rates readily from the wood. ‘This is usually in July or August, and is inti- mated by the buds being well developed in the axillw of the present year’s leaves, Seallop-budding may be done almost at any season. Buds should be taken from the middle of the shoot; those from its point are said to make wood too freely, and those from the base to be more un- excitable, and consequently less prompt to vegetate. ’ Stocks for budding may be much smaller than for grafting, even on the same year’s shoot. Several buds may be inserted on older branches, and thus agood head be obtained at once. On stocks of long standing, scallop-bud- ding is to be adopted. Just after rain, and when there is no violent wind, is a time to be preferred for budding. What- ever mode of budding is adopted, quick- 103 BUD eee ness in the operation is indispensable, |the bud is preparing, and the moment. for if the wound in the stock or that.of| this is done, it should be inserted, and BUD ’ wood. the bud becomes dry, the budding will | the ligature put on forthwith. fail. The bark of the stock should be cut and raised first, and if possible on its north side. A piece of moist bass may be twisted over the wound whilst There are twenty-three modes of budding described by M. Thouin, but only one—shield- budding, (Fig. 22)—is generally practised in Great Britain and p Fig. 22. \ the United States. The annexed cut will convey atolerably clear idea of the pro- cess; ais the stock or tree to be budded. Shield-budding and Scallop-budding :— ‘¢ With the budding-knife make a hori- zontal cut across the rind, quite through to the firm wood at 6; from the middle of this transverse cut make a slit down- ward perpendicularly, an inch or more long, going also quite through to the This done, proceed with all expedition to take off a bud, holding the cutting or scion in one hand with the thickest end outward, and with the knife in the other hand enter it about half an inch or more below a bud, cut- ting near half way into the wood of the shoot, continuing it with one clean slanting cut about half an inch or more above ‘the bud, so deep as to take off part of the wood along with it, the whole about an inch and a half long, represented by ¢; then directly with the thumb ‘and finger, or point of the knife, slip off the woody part remain- ing to the bud; which done, observe whether the eye or gem of the bud remains perfect; if not, and a little hole appears, in that part ‘it is imperfect or, as gardeners express it, the bud has | cess: lost its root and another must be pre- pared. If, however, it is found imprac- ticable to remove this woody part with- out leaving a hole, let it remain, it is not absolutely objectionable. When the bud has been thus prepared, slip it down between the wood and bark to the bot- tom of the slit; the next operation is to cut off the top part of the shield, even with the horizontal first-made cut, in order to let it completely into its place, and to join exactly the upper edge of. the shield with the transverse cut, that the descending sap may immediately enter the bark of the shield, and pro- trude granulated matter between it and the wood, so as to effect a living union. The parts are now to be immediately bound round with a ligament of fresh bass, previously soaked in water to render it pliable and tough, beginning a little below the bottom of the perpen- dicular slit, proceeding upwards closely round every part except just over the eye of the bud, and continuing it a little above the horizontal cut, not too tight, but just sufficient to keep the whole close, and exclude the air, sun, and wet, as represented at d. If the stock and bud are both in fit condition, budding is usually performed with uniform suc- it is a simple mechanical opera- tion, and those accustomed to the work execute it with great rapidity; an ac- > BUD tive nursery-hand will. readily insert 1000 buds in a day. In most of the New Jersey nurseries boys are employed for budding peaches, and by much practice become perfect adepts at it. - The mode just described is called shield or T budding, from the shield-like form of the portion of bark containing the bud to be inserted, and the resemblance which the horizontal and perpendicular cuts made for its admission into the stock, bear to the two principal bars of the letter T. _* In selecting buds, those that are very young should be avoided; for in that case they are closely connected with the greenish substance composing the pith at the tender age of the shoot producing them ; and on this substance they then doubtless too much depend for nourishment to be safely deprived of it. . ‘It is a sign that they are duly con- stituted when they begin to emit woody substance ; and this will form a crite- rion of their fitness to shift for them- selves. ' ¢¢ Buds taken from fruit-bearing trees on walls are apt to fall, owing to the prevalence of blossom-buds which will not produce shoots. f “¢ Scallop-budding consists in paring a thin tongue-shaped section of bark from the side of the stock; and in tak- ing a similar section or shield from the shoot of buds, in neither case removing the wood. The section or shield con- taining the bud, is then laid on the cor- responding scallop in the stock; its upper edge exactly fitted as in shield- budding, and at least one of its edges as in whip-grafting—after this it is tied in the usual way. The advantages of this mode are, that it can be performed when the wood and bark do not sepa- rate freely ; on trees having very stiff, thick, suberose bark, and at any season of the year. Its disadvantages are, that it requires longer time to perform the operation, and is less certain of suc- cess.”? ‘Mr. Knight was accustomed on some occasions to employ two distinct ligatures to hold the bud of his peach trees in its place. One was first placed above the bud inserted, and upon the transverse section through the bark ; the other, which had no further office than that of securing the bud, was em- 104 BUD the bud had attached itself, the ligature last applied was taken off, but the other was suffered to remain. The passage of the sap upwards was in consequence much obstructed, and buds inserted in June began to vegetate strongly in July. When these had afforded shoots about four inches long, the remaining ligature was taken off to permit the excess of sap to pass on, and the young shoots were nailed to the wall. Being there properly exposed to light, their wood ripened well and afforded blossoms in the succeeding spring.”? . In the first week of July the thorns should be removed from those places on the stocks intended for budding roses. If they be not taken away, the operation is, rendered needlessly troublesome; and it is best done then, as time is thus allowed for the bark?s healing. The best time for budding the rose is towards the end of that month; a dormant eye being employed just after a fall of rain, and when no strong dry wind is moving. An attention to these circumstances ensures that the sap is flowing freely, and avoids a rapid eva- poration so often preventing success. Moist bass is usually employed for clos- ing the wound of the stock, but it is far preferable to use worsted, and over this a coating of the grafting wax, made ac- cording to the following recipe :— Burgundy pitch .. . 1 oz. Comnron pitch“... /... “. > 408s Yellow wax”... . Ase Tallow: (o> ee Qe8E Nitre (carbonate of le“ potash) powdered . ee gr These must be melted slowly in an earthen pipkin, and applied whilst warm. Common diachylon sold in rolls by chemists answers as well ‘as the above. A laurel. leaf fastened at each end by a ligature round the stock, so as to arch over the bud, will com- plete the arrangement, and thus the sun’s rays, the air, and wet, will be most effectually excluded, the admit- tance of any one of which are fatal to the union of the bud with the stock. The great point is to apply the liga- ture firmly without cutting the bark, and to relax and_re-tie it, when, after some time, the bark shall be found swelling a little over it. It is not de- sirable to remove the ligature finally, until, from the greenness and plump- ployed in the usual way. As soon as| ness of the bud, and the slight swelling | BUD 105 BUL ——__———_ which takes place in it, evidence is had that the operation has succeeded. Within a fortnight after the bud has been inserted, its fresh swelling aspect will intimate ‘if it has united to the stock. Atthe end‘of the third week, if bass or worsted have been used as ligatures, these must be loosened, and in about ten days more removed. Very early in the spring following, the heads of the stocks must be removed by an oblique cut terminating about one- eighth of an inch above the shield of the bud, or six inches of the stock may be left for the first year, to which to fasten the shoot. as a support. BUDDLEA. Twelve species. Stove or green- -house evergreen shrubs. B. globosa is hardy. Layers or cuttings. Loam and peat. BUFF-TIP MOTH. See Bombyz. BUGINVILL/EA spectabilis.. Stove evergreen climber. Cuttings. Loamy soil. BUGLE. See Ajuga. BUISSON, is a fruit tree on a very low stem, and with a head ey runed. BULBINE. Twenty-one species. Chiefly green-house herbaceous peren- nials. B. frutescens, B. rostrata, B. suavis are evergreen shrubs; B. bisul- cata,is a hardy bulb. Cuttings, offsets, suckers. Sandy loam or rich mould. ‘BULBS, are really underground buds; their fibrous or real roots die annually, but the bulbs remain stored with elaborated sap, and retaining, though latent, the vital powers of the plant, ready for reproduction at the appropriate season. Beside root bulbs, as are the onion, crocus, &c., there are stem or culinary bulbs, equally efficient for propagation. The culinary bulb consists of a num- ber of small scales closely compacted together in an ovate or conical form, enclosing the rudiments of a future plant, and originating sometimes in the axil of the leaves, as in Dentaria bulbi- fera and several liliaceous plants, and sometimes at the base of the umbel of flowers, as in Allium carinatum and others, in both which cases it is nou- rished by the parent plant till it has reached maturity, at which period the _ bond of connexion is dissolved, and the bulb falls to the ground, endowed with the power of striking root in the soiliby sending out fibres from the base, and so converting itself into a new indi- vidual. Every bulbous-rooted plant has some peculiar point in its manage- ment, but there are a few rules of | general applicability. They should never be moved except whilst in a state of rest; this occurs to the sum- met-flowering bulbs in autumn, and to the autumn-flowering in early summer. They require to be taken up annually, or at farthest every second or third year, to remove the accumulated off- sets. No bulb should be kept out of the ground for more than a month, and even during that time it is desirable to keep it from drying by burying it in sand. ‘¢Some bulbs,?? says Mr. Loudon, <¢ multiply so fast by throwing out off. sets, that they soon cease to send up flower stems. Of these may be men- tioned the Ornithogalum umbellatum luteum, and, some other species; some species of Scilla Muscari, Iris, Allium, Ozalis, and others. These. should either be annually taken up, their off- sets removed, and the parent bulb re- planted, or the offsets, as soon as they send up leaves, should be destroyed. Indeed, whenever strong blowing bulbs is the principal object, the offsets should never be allowed to attain any size, but as soon as they indicate their existence by showing leaves above ground, they should be removed with a blunt stick, or in any way least in- jurious to the parent. By this practice a great accession of strength is given to the main plant, both for the display of blossom during the current season, and for invigorating the leaves to prepare and deposit nutriment in the bulb for the next. year. In pursuance of the same objects, every flower should be pinched off as soon as it begins to-de- cay, but the flower-stalk may remain til] it begins to change colour with the leaves.”,—Enc. Gard. '*¢ The rule to observe with newly imported bulbs, is to place them where they absorb moisture very slowly. The driest earth is full of water, which can only be driven off by the application of — intense heat. A bulb, therefore, should be planted in what is called dry soil, and placed in a shady. part of a green- house until it has become plump and begun to shoot. If it has begun to shoot when received, still the same BUL 106 BUR ——_e—— treatment should be observed, and the driest soil used to plant it in. .**It is only when decisive signs of natural growth can be detected that a | very little water should be given, while the temperature is at the same time slightly increased ; and no considerable quantity of water should be adminis- tered until the leaves are an inch or two above ground, and evidently dis- posed to grow rapidly. If these pre- cautions are taken, no failures are ever likely to occur if neglected, no suc- cess can be anticipated. | ‘¢ To this class belong the numerous beautiful tribes of Gladiolus, Ixia, Spar- axis, Watsonia, &c., all of which are so closely allied, that the same treatment is applicable to the whole of them. To these may be added the Hyacinth. The two principal points to be attended to in the successful. cultivation of the Gladiolus and Ixia are, to protect the beds in: which the bulbs are planted from frost and from heavy rains, both of which are equally destructive. For both tribes, the beds should be com- posed of prepared soil, at least one foot deep, with perfect drainage at the bottom. ‘s That for Gladioli should consist of two parts turfy loam, one of leaf mould, and the remainder of well-rotted cow dung and sand. For Ixias, the greater portion of the soil should be formed of sandy peat without any manure. << In both cases the beds may be made Jevel with the surrounding surface, and towards the latter end of this month the bulbs may be planted upon them in rows, six inches apart each way; when covered over with soil, the beds will thus be raised a few inches above the bulbs; a small pyramid of sand should be formed over each, to assist in pro- tecting them from damp. Gladioli should be covered three inches with soil; Ixias not more than two inches. unless very hot weather, shutting close up. | ‘¢There should be a. little fire-heat every morning from seven o’clock until eleven, when it should be taken away until four o’clock, and then applied for the evening. ‘¢ The pipes, flues, ae floors should be watered abundantly directly the air is taken away; then a good syringing at three o’clock; and the flues, &c., &c., wetted as before between five o’clock and six. Watering at the root must be carefully attended to when necessary, | using weak liquid manure. <¢ Period of Forming the Blossom-bud. —Shading will now be indispensable, the best material for which is coarse canvas; those who are not too busy should remove it every afternoon at four o’clock, and replace it at nine on the following morning. <¢ The temperature should range from 65° to 70° by day, and from 55° to 60° by night, and be accompanied with a free circulation of air, avoiding all cut- ting winds. ‘—_——_. that part. | around the plant, and, if necessary, add CAR The method of performing the work is as follows:—First provide a quan- tity of small hooked sticks, three or four inches Jong, with which to peg the layers down, also in a barrow a | quantity of light rich mouid to raise the earth, if required, around each plant; and provide also a sharp penknife. Having all these ready, then proceed to the work of Jayering: first, strip off all the leaves from the body of the shoots, and shorten those at the top‘an inch or two evenly; and then, fixing upon a strong joint about the middle of the shoot, and on its under side, cut- the joint half way through, directing your knife upward, so as to slit the shoot up the middle almost to the next joint above; of which joint the thin skinny part must be trimmed off, for the layers ‘always form their root at This done, loosen the earth some fresh mould to raise it for the more ready reception of the layers; then with your finger make a hollow or drill in the earth to receive the layer, which bend gently down horizontally in the opening, raising the top upright, so as to keep the gash, or slit part of the layer, open, and with one of the hooked sticks peg down the body of the layer to secure it in its proper place and po- sition, still preserving the top erect and the slit open, and draw the earth over it an inch or two, bringing it close about the erect part of the shoot; and when all the shoots of each plant are thus layered, give some water to settle the earth close, repeating the waterings often in dry weather; and in five or six weeks the layers will have formed good roots, when they should be separated with a knife from the old i and planted in beds or pots. Taking off and transplanting the Layers.—The layers are generally well. rooted in six weeks after layering, which you will observe by opening the earth a little, and examining the bottom, or root part; and if it has emitted plenty of fibres, they should be taken off, and planted out. They must be cut, or - separated with a knife from the old plant, gently rais- ing them out of the earth with the point of a trowel, to preserve the fibres, or roots of the layers; and when thus taken up, cut off the naked sticky part at bot- tom close to the root, and trim the tops CAR 129 CAR SEEK See of the leaves a little: they are then ready for planting, either into beds or pots, but rather into nursery-beds of -good earth, to remain six weeks, and -then the fine sorts may be potted. Therefore, choosing a bed or border of rich light earth, let it be then neatly dug, and the surface raked smooth, and here plant the layers, with a dibble, at six or eight inches distance; give di- rectly a good watering, and repeat it, in dry weather, every day or two, for a week or. a fortnight, when the plants will have taken fresh root, and begin to advance. In this bed let them take their growth _ till October, then the fine varieties may be potted insmall pots (forty-eights) for “moving to occasional shelter from hard frosts, till spring, then into large pots, to remain to flower; therefore, at the above-mentioned time in autumn, take up the layers of the prime sorts from the nursery beds into smal! pots, and give a moderate watering, and place them in a warm situation, in the full air, till November, then move them to occasional shelter, as directed in their winter culture. . The more common sorts may either at the above time in autumn be trans- planted into the borders or other com- partments ofthe pleasure ground, where ‘they are to remain to flower, or may be continued in the beds until spring ; and then a due quantity may be disposed in the borders, or retained in the same bed, for flowering. Winter Culture.—In November, the varieties in pots should be moved to a sunny, sheltered situation for the win- ter; and if placed in a frame, &c., to have occasional protection from hard frost, it will be of much advantage. The pots may be placed close together, or if the bed is raised three, four, or six inches, with a light dry earth, sand, or ashes, and so plunge the pots in it to their rims, it will be a greater protec- tion for their roots, covering them oc- casionally with the glasses in hard frosts, &c.; but for want of frames, a bed prepared as above may be arched over with hoops, to be covered occa- sionally with mats. dion Under either of those shelters the plants are to be covered with glasses or mats only in time of severe frost, but must enjoy the full air in all open oar pl by having all covering en- those in pots every day or two. tirely off, for if much covered it would draw them up weak and tender. Be careful also that the drainage in the pots is very good. Thus continue your care of the potted plants till spring, and then shift them into large pots, to remain to blow, as directed in their spring culture. In respect to those in the open beds, although they commonly stand the win- ter tolerably, yet, if you have any spare frames, or the beds arched over, to be covered with mats or long dry litter in severe frosts, it will be of much advan- tage. ; Spring Culture, Shifting, §c.—In the latter end of February, or some time in March, the layers in the small pots, or such as are in beds, and that you intend shall blow in pots, should be transplanted with balls into the large pots, where they are to remain. The pots proper for their reception for flowering, should be nine or ten inches at least in the clear at top, but if a foot the better, that there may be due room to lay the layers, at the pro- per season, for a further increase, which is an essential point to be con- sidered. The pots being ready, put some pieces of tile or oyster shells over the holes at the bottom; add plenty of drainage, and fill them halfway with earth, then turn the plants out of the pots, &c., with the ball of earth about their roots; and after taking /away a little of the earth around the sides of the ball, place one plant in each of the large pots, filling up the vacancy around the ball with fresh compost, bringing it also close up about the body of the plant, which should stand nearly as high as the rim of the pot; and finish each pot with a moderate watering. Being thus potted, place them in a sheltered sunny situation in the full air, and in dry weather supply them with water twice a week, and here let-them remain till they are considerably ad- vanced towards flowering, then the fine sorts may be placed on the Carnation stage. i Summer Culture.—During dry warm weather continue the care of watering Like- wise clear out all weeds, and at times lightly stir the surface. In May and June the flower-stems of the plants will CAR 1 advance, when sticks should be placed for their support, which should be two feet and a half or a yard long, either round or square, but perfectly straight, and tapering from the bottom: sharpen- ing the lower end thrust one down by every plant, to which tie the flower- stems in a neat manner, which repeat as they advance in height. In June, or beginning of July, the plants will be considerably advanced towards flowering, when those intended for the stage should be placed there, to prevent the depredation of slugs; the posts or supporters of the stage should be surrounded at the bottom by small cups of water; and by placing the plants on a stage, having the platform eighteen inches or two feet high, the flowers are viewed to more advantage ; and if there is erected an awning over the top, supported four feet above the platform, the flowers being screened from the heat of the mid-day sun, and defended from heavy rains, are con- tinued much longer in beauty. Some Carnation stages are con- structed upon very elegant plans, both to render them useful and ornamental. But as to the general construction of a common Carnation stage, it is formed entirely of slight timber work, thas—a boarded platform is erected eighteen. inches or two feet in height, formed by two ranges of planks, to contain two rows of pots lengthways, supported on posts, ranged either in one row along under the middle of the platform, or in two ranges, one on each side; and over is erected a roof of open work, five or six feet high, to be covered with painted canvas, supported either bya range of neat posts on each side, or by one row ranging along the middle, be- tween the planks of the platform, which is the most eligible; the roof may be. formed either archways or like the ridge of a house, having the arches or spars about a foot asunder, and stiffened by thin slips ofdeal, carried across them | the whole length of the stage; and the | roof thus formed may be covered with coarse canvas painted white. All the wood work of the. stage should be painted white, both to pre- serve it from the weather, and give it a more lively appearance. structing Carnation stages, some con- trive sticks for the support of the flower-stalks, fixed to the work of the In con--| 30 CAR stage, by means of small neat rails, carried along lengthways of the stage, just over the place where each row of pots stand, and from which rails up- right ateks: half an inch thick are car- ried to another such rail above, placing them at such distances that there be two to each pot, and so train the flower-stems up to the outside of the sticks. With respect to the cups of water above mentioned, they are earthen or leaden; about fifteen inches wide, and three or four deep, having a hollow or vacancy in the middle six inches wide, like a socket to receive the posts ; and is formed by a raised rim in the middle, equal in height to that of the circum- ference, and the hollow or socket so formed as to receive the bottom of the posts quite through to the ground; and the space between the outer and inner rim is filled with water, so that each ‘post standing in the middle of sucha cistern, sufficiently guards the plants against creeping insects, for they will not attempt to cross the water. For want of a covered stage to screen . the flowers, you may contrivea kind of small umbrellas or round spreading caps, either of tin or canvas, nine or ten inches diameter, one for each plant; having a socket in the middle to receive the tops of the support-sticks ; those umbrellas which are formed of tin are the best, but if you make them of can- 'vas, first make little round frames, -having the rim formed with slips of lead, wire, cane, &c., the above width, with cross slips of the same materials; contriving a socket of lead ortininthe middle for the support-stick to go quite — 'through, as just observed; and upon these frames paste or sow canvas, _which paint with oil-colour, that they may stand the weather; either of which covers are placed over the | flowers by running the support-stick up through the hole or socket in the mid- — dle, and resting the cap upon a piece of wire put across the stick at such a height from the flower as to screen it effectually from the sun and rains. + Give attention to continue. to tie up neatly the flower-stalks of the plants as they advance in stature. When they — are arrived at their full height, support — them erect at top with wires, having a — small eye or ring at one end, for the | reception of the. flower-stalk ;_ so put | CAR ‘the other end into holes made in the support-sticks. These wires should be five or six inches long, and several holes are made in the upper part of the sticks; the first at the height of the bottom of the flower pod, the other above that, an inch or two distant ;, and place the wires | _ in the holes lower or higher, that the eye or ring may be just even with the case of the calyx, to support the flower in an upright position; and by drawing ‘the wire less or more out, the flower is preserved at any distance from the sup- port as shall seem necessary to give it proper room to expand; and if two or three of the like wires are placed also in the Jower parts of the support-sticks, placing the stem of the flowers also in the eye of the wires, all the tyings of bass, &c., may be cut away. “To have as large flowers as possible, clear off all side shoots from the flower- stem, suffering only the main or top buds to remain to flower. When the flowers begin to open, at- tendance should be given to assist the fine varieties to promote their regular expansion, particularly the large burster kinds, they being apt to burst open on one side; and, unless assisted by alittle art, the petals will break out of com- pass, and the flower become very ir- ‘regular; therefore, attending every day at that period, observe, as soon as the calyx begins to break, to cut it a little open at two other, places i in the indent- ‘Ings at top, with narrow-pointed scis- sors, that the openings be at equal dis- tances, and hereby the more regular expansion of the petals will be pro- moted; observing if one side of any flower comes out faster than another, to turn the pot about, that the other side of the flower be next the sun, which wil! also greatly assist the more ‘regular ex- pansion of the flower. Likewise, when intended to blow any particularly fine flowers as large and spreading as possible, florists place spreading paper collars round the bot- tom of the flower, on which to spread the petals to their utmost expansion ; these collars are made of stiff white paper, cut circular, about three or four inches diameter, having a hole in the} ‘middle to receive the bottom of the petals, withinside of the calyx, the leaves of which are made to spread flat for its support ; and then spread or draw. out the petals upon the collar to their 131 CAR full width and extent, the longest un- dermost, and the next longest upon these, and so of the rest quite to the middle, observing that the collar must nowhere appear wider than the flower when it begins to burst. Continue the care of watering the pots, which in dry hot weather will be necessary every day, being essential to promote the size of the flowers, and increase the strength of the shoots of the plants at bottom for layers. And as in June and July these layers will have arrived at proper growth for layering, they should also be layered to continue your increase of the approved varieties, and so continue layering the shoots of each year’s growth. at the above season, managing them always 'as before directed. As to the border carnations, 12).@25 such as you intend shall flower in bor- ders or beds, in the open ground, any of the varieties may be employed; and their propagation both by seed and layers is the same as already directed. The season for transplanting them into the places of their final destination for flowering, is October or beginning of November, for the autumn planting; and for that of the spring, any time in March or first fortnight in April; re- moving them with little balls about their roots, planting them about two feet from the edge of the border; and as to cul- ture, it is principally tying up the flower- stalks as they advance in stature, and to make layers of all the approved sorts annually, in June or July.—Aber- crombie. Carnation Pots.—The pots commonly made and used for the purpose of blooming carnations in, are called wide- mouthed twelves. Two plants are put in each pot, and they are made wide at the top for the convenience of layering the plants in. Disease.—The << black spot’? on the leaves of carnations, is an infection propagating itself in the same manner as rust in corn, or mildew of plants, each spot being composed of innumera- ble small fungi. CAROB TREE. Ceratonia. CAROLINEA. Four species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Rich loamy * soil. CARPINUS. Three species, and as many varieties. Hardy deciduous trees. Seeds or layers. Common soil. . yn before its close. CAR 132 CAS -——+-— ; CARPODONTUS lucida. Green-|for this purpose—does not grow so house evergreen tree. Peat and loam. CARRICHTERA velle. wee | an- nee nual. Seeds. Common soil. A dry situation suits it best. CARROT. (Daucus carota.) ‘* The Carrot isa hardy biennial. . The root of the plant in its wild state is small ; dry, sticky, of a white colour, and strong flavoured.”? Varieties.—Those with a regular fusi- form root, are named Jong carrots; and those having one that is nearly cylin- drical, abruptly terminating, are de- nominated horn carrots. The first are employed for the main crops, the se- cond, on account of their superior deli- cate flavour, are advantageously grown for early use, and for shallow soils. ‘- CEDAR OF LEBANON. Cedrus Li- bani. CEDRELA. Three species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Light loam. CEDRUS. Cedar. Two species. Hardy evergreen trees. Seeds. C. deodara, grafts readily on the common larch. Sandy loam. CELAS TRUS. Twenty-seven species. Chiefly green-house or stove evergreen shrubs, trees, or climbing plants. C. bullatus and C. scandens, are hardy deciduous climbers. Ripe cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. | CELERIAC, or TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY (Apium rapaceum). Time and Mode of Sowing.—It may be sown in March, April, and May, to afford successive plantations in June, July, and August. The seed must be sown in drills six inches apart, and kept regularly watered every evening in dry weather, otherwise it will not germi- nate. The bed must be kept free from weeds, and when about three inches high, they may be pricked out into another border in rows three inches apart each way; giving water abund- antly and frequently: by adopting the precautions mentioned in the cultiva- tion of celery, the same seed bed will afford two or three distinct prickings. In the neighbourhood. of Dresden, where this vegetable is grown in great perfec- tion, they sow in February or March, in a hot-bed under glass, and the’ plants are removed in April, when two or three inches high to another hot-bed, and set an inch anda half apart. The fineness of the plants is there attributed to the abundance of water with which they are supplied. When five or six inches high, oe are fit for final planting; they must be: set in rows two feet asunder, and the plants eight inches apart, on the level ground, or in drills drawn with the hoe at most three inches deep, as they do not require earthing up. In dry weather they should be watered plentifully, at least every other evening. The only additional attention they require, is te keep them free from weeds. Fini require a very light fertile soil. Saving Seed. —The directions given for saving the seed of Celery, are in every respect applicable to this vege- table. CEL 136 CEL a CELERY. (Apium graveolens). “The Celery is a hardy biennial plant, a na- tive of Britain, and known in its wild state, by the name of smallage; the whole plant has a rank coarse taste, and the effects of cultivation in pro- ducing from it the mild sweet stalks of Celery, are not a little remarkable. <¢ The blanched leaf stalks are used raw as a salad; they are also stewed, and put insoups. In Italy the unblanch- ed leaves are used for soups, and when neither the blanched, nor the green leaves can be had, the seeds bruised, form a good substitute. <¢ In Europe, they enumerate several varieties of Celery, two only of which we cultivate, viz: Large Solid Stalked White, Large, Solid, Stalked Red. <¢ It delights in damp rich soil, deeply dug, and heavily manured with decom- posed vegetables or manure, from the barn yard, thoroughly rotted. “¢ For a very,early crop, sow the seed in a hot-bed very early in the spring, either by itself, or among Radishes, Salad, or Cabbage. For the main au- tumnal and winter supply, sow in the open ground on a damp spot, conveni- ently situated to apply water, which give freely in dry weather, even after the plants are well grown. «¢ That intended for the early supply, may be planted out by the close of spring. Make several plantings through the early part of summer, of such as are intended for the later supply. “¢ Tt will greatly strengthen the plants if they be transplanted into nursery beds, after they attain the height of two er three inches. Such beds it is re- commended to form ‘of old hot-bed dung, (decomposed manure from the barn yard will answer the same pur- pose,) very well broken, laid six or seven inches thick on a piece of ground which has lain some time undisturbed, or has been made hard by compression ; the situation should be sunny; the plants set six inches apart in the dung without soil, water well when planted, and frequently afterwards.? From this bed they are in due time transplanted, where they are to remain. A stalk which had been thus treated, was raised near Manchester, which weighed nine pounds when washed, with the roots and leaves attached to it, and measured four feet six inches in height. _ ‘¢ When the plants in the seed-bed, or those which have been transplanted into the nursery-bed just described, have reached the height of six to twelve inches, they may be removed into the trenches for further growth and blanch- ing. These trenches are formed in deep well cultivated soil, in straight lines, three feet apart, twelve to four- teen inches wide, and six inches deep, incorporating. with the soil abundance of well rotted manure ; therein set the plants, four or five inches apart, (having removed them with all their roots, cut off the straggling fibres, and a third of the tops, and slit off the suckers or side shoots,) water them freely, and shade them from the hot sun for some days. Experience has shown that this vegeta- ble may be more successfully cultivated by having a liberal portion of manure placed on the surface around the plants, rather than by the old plan of placing it in excessive quantity in the bottom of the trench, which in dry seasons fre- quently injure the plants. Cedar brush, corn stalks, or boards, laid across the trenches, afford ample shade, for the newly transplanted plants, observing to remove them in the evening, and replace them in the morning. In the course of a few weeks, the plants will have grown sufficiently to - admit of ‘earthing up,’ which is performed by drawing the loose earth around the stalks, taking care to keep the leaf stems together, and the heart of the plant uncovered. The operation should be gradual, not drawing at once too great a body of earth around them, lest its application should cause the young shoots to rot. It is not advisable early to commence earthing up;such as are intended for the late autumn and win- ter supply, because the plant soon per- ishes after it becomes fully blanched, especially in warm weather. ** To preserve Celery during the win- ter, is sometimes attended with trouble, the frequent changes of temperature in our climate causing it to decay. The usual practice is to cut down the earth of one row in a perpendicular line near the plants, against which, as if it were a wall, the stalks from the other rows are compactly arranged, topserect: the earth is then banked up as before, and again cut down, to make room for an- other row, thus continuing, until the entire crop is placed side by side, within the compass of a single bed. nate = RRs ose er ae nena cee res seen, os CEL 137 CES ——_e——- On either side of the bed, earth is piled up to the thickness of three feet at least. On the top, (through which the extreme ends only of the plants appear,) some dry straw litter is placed, to save them from the frost, and keep them green. Boards placed over the beds so as to turn off the rain, are very useful, for much moisture frequently proves ruin- ous. In taking out for use, begin at one end, digging. down to the roots, always observing to keep the aperture closed with straw. <¢ Some take up the crop on the ap- proach of winter, and place it in a cel- lar, with alternate layers of dry sand ; but it is apt, when thus treated, to become tough and wilted.?’—Rural Reg. To Save Seed.—To raise seed, some plants must be left where grown, or in February or March, some may be care- fully taken up, and after the outside leaves are cut off and all laterals re- moved, planted in'a moist soil a foot apart. ‘Those which are mostsolid, and of a middling size, are to be selected. When they branch for seed, they must be early attached toa stake to preserve them from being broken by the violence of winds. The flower appears in June, and the seed is swelling in July; if dry weather occurs they should be watered every other night. In August the seed will be ripe, and when perfectly dry, may be rubbed outandstored. - CELOSIA. Cockscomb. Fourteen species and some varieties. Chiefly stove or green-house annuals. C. echi- nata, C. glauca are evergreen shrubs. Seeds. Rich mould. See Cockscomb. CELSIA. Nine species. Chiefly half hardy biennials, some stove annuals. C. orientalis is a hardy annual. Seeds. Peat and loam. CELTIS. Eleven species and two varieties. Stove evergreen trees or . hardy deciduous trees and_ shrubs. Seeds or layers. Common soil. CENTAUREA. One hundred and fifty-two species and some varieties. Chiefly hardy and halfhardy herbaceous perennials; a few annuals and biennials. C. ragusina is a green-house evergreen shrub. Seeds. Division. Common soil. CENTRANTHUS. Three species, and variety. Hardy annual and her- baceous perennials. Seeds. Common - somes "7 CENTROCARPHA. Nine species. Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials. Two are biennial. Seeds. Division. Common soil. CENTROCLINIUM. Two ‘species, one a stove annual, the other an ever- green shrub. Seeds. Light vegetable soil. CENTROSPERMUM carysanthum. Hardy annual. Seeds. Common soil. CENTAURY. Centaurea. CENTUNCULUS minimus. pimpernel. Hardy. annual. Sandy loam. CEPHAELIS. evergreen plants. Joam. - CEPHALANTHERA. Three spe- cies. Hardy orchids. Division. Peat and loam. CEPHALANTHUS occidentalis and variety. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Ripe cuttings or layers. Sandy peat and loam. CEPHALOTUS /follicularis. house herbaceous perennial. Boggy soil. CERANTHERA subintegrifolia. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam. CERASUS. Twenty-eight species and many varieties; chiefly hardy de- Bastard Seeds. Eight species. Stove shrubs, two are. trailing Cuttings. Peat and sandy Green- Offsets. ‘ciduous fruit trees and shrubs, a few evergreens. C. occidentalis, and C. spherocarpa, are stove evergreens. Seeds. Budding or grafting. CERATIOLA ericoides. Half hardy green-house evergreen under ' shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat. CERATOPETALUM gummiferum. Green-house evergreen tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam. CERERA. Six species. Stove ever- green trees or shrubs. Cuttings. Rich mould. CERCIS. Two species and varie- ties. Hardy deciduous trees. Seeds. Light loamy soil. CEREUS. One hundred and ‘hin. one species. ‘Stove cactaceous plants. Cuttings, dried before planting. Sandy loam. CERINTHE. Five species. Hardy annual or biennial plants. Seeds. Com- mon soil. CEROPEGIA. Thirteen species. Stove or green-house evergreen twining or deciduous climbing plants, tuberous rooted perennials and evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam. CESTRINUS carthamoides. Hardy CES 1 herbaceous perennial. | mon soil. CESTRUM.. Twenty-eight species. Stove and green-house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam. CC. auran- tiacum is the prettiest species for the green-house. CETONIA aurata. Green rose chafer, is most severely felt by the gardener when it attacks his strawberries, which it does in May or June. It is described by Mr. Curtis as being ‘‘one of our jargest and most beautiful beetles, being of a bright burnished green, often re- flecting a rich golden or copper tint; the horns are short with a small club. The scutel forms an elongated triangle; the wings are very long, brownish, and folded beneath the horny wing-cases, which have a few scattered white lines placed transversely, resembling cracks in the green epidermis; the under side is of a fine copper tint often inclining to rose colour. From its nestiing and reposing in the flower of the rose, it is generally called the rose-chafer, but it is also attached to the white-thorn, candy-tuft, elder, mountain-ash, peony and strawberry, the flowers of which it feeds upon. The female rose-chafers lay their eggs in the ground, and the larve they produce are no doubt often confounded with those of the cock- chafer (Melolontha vulgaris), being as large and very similar, and probably, under the name of ‘* Leverblanc,’? they have contributed in no small de- gree to augment the ravages in the rose-tree nurseries of France. Although these larve are very much alike, it is not difficult to distinguish them, those of the rose-chafer being downy, and covered with transverse series of short hairs; and the feet are pointed, whereas, the grubs of the cock-chafer are naked, and the feet are blunt and rather dilated at the trips. “These maggots are fat, the head- horns and six pectoral feet are rusty ochreous; the tips of the streng jaws are black, the extremity of the abdo- men is of a pale ink colour from the food shining through the transparent skin; but in the rose-chafer there is a large horny bright rust-coloured spot on each side of the first thoracic segment. The simplest remedy is to collect the beetles, which are large and conspicu- ous, into bottles or cans of water, in the morning and evening, or in dull Division. Com- 8 CHA weather during the day, for they fly very well, when the sun shines, which renders it difficult to capture them unless a net be used: when the search is ended, the contents of the vessel should be emptied into boiling water.” —Gard. Chron. CHZETACHLZENA odorata. Green- house herbaceous perennial. Seed. Sandy loam. CHATANTHERA. Two species. Green-house herbaceous perennials. Division. Peat and loam. CHZTOCALYX vincentina. Stove evergreen climber. Cuttings. Peat and loam. ; CHZTOGASTRA. Two species. Stove annual and herbaceous peren- nial. Seed. Peat and loam. CHALK. Carbonate of lime, con- tains, when pure— Carbonic acid 45 Lime oi "' ee 55 But as it usually occurs it contains about twenty-four per cent. of water, and five per cent. of silica (flint), alumina (clay), and oxide (rust) of iron. After these deductions it will be apparent that if fifty tons of lime be applied to land, it will be equal to more than one hundred of chalk, a subject worthy of considera- tion when it has to be conveyed from afar. Chalk is usually employed in large quantities to improve the staple of a soil. It makes heavy soils less re- tentive of moisture, and light sandy soils more retentive. On wet sour lands it neutralizes the acids which render them unproductive. Some chalks con- tain phosphate of lime, and this being a constituent of all plants, such chalk is to be preferred. Some contains a large proportion of carbonate of magnesia, ~ which is less beneficial. _ CHAMADOREA. Two species. Palms. Rich sandy loam. Suckers. CHAM 2 LEDON procumbens. Hardy evergreen shrub. Layers. Sandy peat. CHAM ZLIRIUM carolinianum. Hardy herbaceous perennial. Division. Peat and loam. CHAMISSOA altissima. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Common soil. CHAMAROPS. Palms. Suckers. Rich mould. CHAMOMILE. Anthemis. See Camomile. CHAPTALIA tomentosa. Hardy her- | baceous perennial. Com- Division. — mon soil. : Seven species. . CHA 139 CHA —-o——— CHARCOAL.. Soot, a chief consti- tuent of which is charcoal, has long been known as a very effective fertil- - izer; and burning has still longer been known as a mode of reducing stubborn soils to prompt productiveness. But both these sources of fertility might owe their efficiency to other causes than their affording carbon to plants; and it is only within these very few months that anything like a general knowledge has been diffused that mere charcoal is one of the best of manures. The fact has been known for many years to individuals, as, for example, to Mr. Barnes, of Bicton; but itis only very lately that gardeners generally have learned, and I am happy in being able to join my voice to that. excellent cultivator’s in announcing, that—char- coal is a most efficient manure to all cultivated plants, especially to those under glass. Heaths, rhododendrons, cucumbers, roses, orchidaceous plants, hydrangeas, camellias, melons, and pine apples, have been the subjects of ex- tended and most. successful experi- ments. The advocates are too well known to require more than naming, for among them are Dr. Lindley, Mr. Barnes, Mr. Maund, Mr. Snow of Swin- ton Gardens, Mr. Stewart of Stradsett Hall Gardens, and Mr. Rivers. I think no cultivated plant would be unbene- fited by having charcoal applied to the soil in which it is rooted. It should be broken into small pieces, about the size of a nut, and for potted plants may be mixed in the proportions of one part charcoal to twenty parts earth. If ap- plied to the open ground, one-fourth of a bushel may be sown over a square rod, and dug in just before inserting the crop. The reason of charcoal being so useful as a manure is very apparent. MM. Sennebier, Ruckert, Saussure, and others, have demonstrated that plants are rendered much more luxuti- ant and productive, by having carbonic acid applied to their roots, than other plants to whose roots no such applica-: tion was made. Now charcoal kept moist, as when buried in the soil, slow- ly combines with oxygen, and emits carbonic acid—in fact, it slowly dis- solves. I am sorry to differ from such an authority as Liebig, who broadly asserts that ‘Carbon never combines at common temperatures with oxygen, so as to form carbonic acid.?? This was 99, 89, 95, and 83 Ibs. long since shown to be otherwise by Count Rumford ; and may easily be de- monstrated to be incorrect, by confining a few ounces of fresh and moistened charcoal powder, mixed with earth, in a glass receiver full of oxygen, over lime water; carbonate of lime will form, showing the gradual evolution of carbonic acid. The following com- munication from Mr. Barnes shows, that carbonized vegetables are a better manure for onions than even bone- dust. <¢ A piece of ground that was cropped ‘with coleworts last autumn, (1843,) was cleared early, and the refuse trenched in during the winter. 95 feet in length and 10 feet in width, was planted with small onions on the 14th of February, which onions had been sown the se- cond week of September in the pre- vious autumn. They were planted in rows one foot apart, and. six inches from plant to plant—with the intention of drawing every alternate one for use through the summer—but the whole nine rows did not get entirely thinned. The following is the weight when ripe for storing on the Ist of August. ‘* Five rows grown where 4 lbs. of bone-dust to each row had been sown in a drill drawn 3 inches. deep and filled up, and the onions planted over it—producing 420 lbs. weight of onions —each row yielding from 82 to 88 Ibs. ‘¢ The other 4 rows had applied to them of fresh dry charred refuse and ashes, made from the garden rubbish- heap, two common buckets full, weight - 14 lbs. They produced 366 lbs. of onions, the rows weighing respectively The last row being injured by a row of red cabbage growing near. : ‘““Many of the foregoing onions,. which were a mixture of the Globe, Deptford, and Reading, measured in circumference from 14 to 16: mches, and weighed as many ounces. I weighed 12 together, that turned the scale at 12 lb. 9 0z. I can only. fancy what a wonderful saving and benefit it would be to the country, to char the refuse of old tan, chips, sawdust, ditch scourings containing. ‘sods, weeds, bushes, and refuse. By keeping the surface of the earth well stirred, no crops appear to suffer by drought that are manured by charrings, but continue in the most vigorous health throughout CHA 140 CHE ed the season, never suffering materially by either drought or moisture.”’ On spring sown onions and on tur- nips, Mr. Barnes finds charred or car- - bonized vegetable refuse equally bene- - ficial. Three rows, each 95 feet long, of the white globe onion, manured with bone-dust, weighed 251 Ibs.; whilst three similar rows of the same variety, and grown under precisely similar cir- cumstances, but manured with char- rings, weighed 289 lbs. CHARD. See Artichoke. CHARDOON. See Cardoon. CHARAAS graminis. Antler or grass moth, has a yellowish-brown head and back—upper wings brownish grey, appears in July and August. Its caterpillar brown or blackish, with five lighter stripes down the back. This lives. at the roots of grasses, and eats their young blades. CHASMONIA incisa. Hardy annual. Seeds. Common soil. CHEILANTHES. Fourteen species, Ferns. Green-house, stove or hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Peat and loam. CHEIMATOBIA brumata. Winter moth. This is the parent of that scourge of fruit trees, the greenlooper caterpillar. It appears in November. One female will lay 200 eggs, deposit- ing them on the bends and bark of the upper branches of the apple and other fruit trees. The caterpillars appear with the bursting of the buds, on the tips of the leaves, petals, and calyxes of which they feed. They form a small web within the blossom, and glue and gnaw its petals so as to destroy it. When the fruit is formed, that becomes their favourite food. They descend and bury themselves in the earth, to assume the chrysalis form about the end of May. Frosts in November, ants and birds, are their natural enemies. As the females have no wings, a thick coating of gas-lime sprinkled a foot broad over the surface, round the stems of fruit trees at the end of October, and renewed once or twice in November and December, would prevent their ascent; or a broad band of bird lime might be smeared round the stems themselves. An advantage of espalier and dwarf fruit trees is, that their buds are easily examined for these cater- pillars and other marauders. CHEIRANTHUS. ‘Eleven species, and many varieties. Green-house or half-hardy evergreen shrubs. C. fruti- culosus, C. ochroleucus ‘are hardy herba- ceous perennials. Cuttings. Rich com- mon soil. See Wallflower, CHEIROSTEMON platanoides. Stove evergreen tree. Leafy cuttings. Sandy loam. CHELIDONIUM. Two species.— Hardy herbaceous perennials. Di- vision. Common soil. : -CHELONE. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Peat and loam. CHENOLEA diffusa. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Lightrich soil. CHERLERIA sedoides. aceous perennial. loam and peat. CHERMES. See Psylla. CHERRY. (Cerasus.) Varieties—There are eighty in the London Horticultural Society’s list, of which some are quite inferior and others scarcely differ except in name. The following we extract from the Cata- logue of D. Landreth & Fulton, Phila- del phia : Hardy herb- Division. Sandy CHE 141 ——@——— CHE EXPLANATION oF ABBREVIATIONS. — Colour—b black; 1 light; r red y yellow. Size—x large; m medium; s small. Those marked * are of American origin, NAME. Belle de Choisey *Bleeding Heart Black Tartarian Carnation f *Downer’s Late Red Downton - Knight’s Early Black Late Duke ‘May Duke, Early Mazzard Black . Morello, English . Morello, French Morello, Plumstone Morello, Kentish . ‘ *Morello, Rumsey’s Late Ox Heart White Heart : Yellow Spanish ‘. COLOUR. round heart heart round round round round heart heart round heart heart heart heart heart heart heart r heart oon — et AAA SHRM RP ORM Ho Ws Le Se | FORM. Poe eee Oh ae eee | SIZE. REDE EWE ee Dee | QLTY. SEASON. June - June June July July July June July June July July July July July August July July July The annexed drawings and descrip- which was produced at Choisey, near tions of a few valuable varieties may | Paris, many years ago. interest some of our readers. Fig. 23. BELLE DE CHotsEY. Thomp.: Pom. Mag. (Cereise Doucette, Cereise Pa- lembre.) (Fig. 23.) ‘* The Bon Jar- dinier speaks highly of this variety, It has proved hardy and well adapted to this country, and we can recommend it as among the very best of its class. The fruit is middle sized, roundish; skin red, mot- tled with amber, exhibiting the flesh Fig. 24.—(P. 142.) CHE beneath, which is amber coloured, deli- cate and sweet. The habit of the tree is not unlike the well known May Duke, with which it ripens.”°—Rural Reg. Carnation. Thomp.: Lind:: Coze. (Fig. 24.) ‘* This, though an old, is still a highly popular variety. Coxe says, ‘one of our most excellent Cher- ries.” More recently introduced sorts have divided our attention, but it is among those most frequently ordered from the Nurseries. The size is large, round. Skin beautifully variegated, red and yellow. It ripens in July, and hangs long without decaying: highly es- teemed for preserving.’’—Rural Reg. Fig. 25. Downton. Lind.: Thomp. (Fig. 25.) ‘¢ The Downton is especially valuable from its time of ripening, which is after most good cherries have declined, or disappeared. The fruit is roundish, of large size, and of prepossessing appear- ance. Skin creamy white, red on the sunny side. Flesh yellowish, rich and well flavoured.””—Rural Reg. May Duxe. Miller ; Lind.: Thomp. (Fig. 26.) It would occupy some space to enumerate all the English and French synonymes of this widely known, and as widely esteemed variety. Per- haps the entire catalogue of the London ~ 142 see Horticultural Society does not contain one so universally esteemed. Downing justly remarks, among all the new va- rieties, none has been found to sup- plant the May Duke. The fruit is large, obtusely heart shaped, produced in clusters; when perfectly ripe of a deep purple hue. Flesh tender, juicy, and when in per- fection, all that can be desired in a Fig. 27.—(P. 143.) ee. CHE cherry. Ripens at Philadelphia, latter -end of May and early in June. Prum Stone Moreztto. Thomp.— (Fig. 27.) There is some difference of| . opinion as to the merits of this va- riety—it has, however, many admirers, and is on the whole, worthy of culture; though we cannot pronounce it of first quality. It ripens late in the season, possesses good flavour, and has a pre- possessing appearance, all of which | -are desirable properties, and render it popular. The fruit is large, of a deep redcolour. Flesh juicy and acid, as is the case with all Morellos. Ripe at Philadelphia, middle to close of July. Fig. 28. ——— Knicur’s Earty Brack. Pom. Mag.: Thom. (Fig. 28.) <‘* This is, as its name imports, one of Mr. Knight’s seedlings, raised in England, about|- 3810. It is not, externally, unlike the Black Tartarian, of which such exagge- rated descriptions have been given, ripens earlier than it—at Philadelphia, about the Ist of June. The fruit is over medium size, heart shaped. Skin deep purple, when fully ripe quite black. Flesh delicate, juicy, and well fiavoured. Taken altogether it may be pronounced a cherry of the first order.”’°—Rural Reg. - Enron. Pom. Mag.: Thomp.— (Fig. 29.) -*¢ The Elton is an English cherry, raised in 1806. It is truly ex- vil, 143 Se cellent, and must always remain a favourite, even though newer varieties contest the claim to our esteem. It is ° Fig. 30.—(P. 144.) CHE 144 CHE as above the medium size, ripens early, shortly after the May Duke. The flesh is tender, abounding in luscious juice ; skin pale yellow, with a blush on the sun- ny side. The tree is of strong growth, and on that account additionally en- titled to our regard.?,—Rural Reg. Late Duxe. Pom. Mag.: Thomp. (June Duke of Core. \ Shippen Cherry.) (Fig. 30.) ‘* This is a valuable variety, similar to its predecessor, the May Duke. It ripens considerably later than it, and has the property of hang- ing long on the tree. The fruit is large, rather flattened; when fully ripe, rich dark red; flesh yellow, abounding in juice, scarcely so rich as the May Duke; its habit is robust; bears abundantly. Coxe calls it the most valuable cherry of the season.””— Rural Reg. Propagation.—Although grafting is sometimes adopted, budding is far pre- ferable. The stock for standards should be the wild cherry, but for dwarfs or walls the mahaleb. If the stones be - sown either for stocks or to raise varie- ties, they are best committed to the ground in September. They will vege- tate the following spring, and when one year old are fit for budding if dwarfs are required, but four years usually elapse before they attain the height of six feet, required for standards. @ Wails.—No fruit is more improved by agood aspect than the cherry. Allot a south wall to the best sorts, and east and west for succession. The Morello will be productive on a north wall, but on a south wall itis very superior fruit. No garden should be without one so grown. Wall pruning.—In May or June dis- bud all unnecessary and foreright shoots. Train in the best-placed, lateral and terminal shoots as required. When the leaves have fallen, prune away all ir- regular, unproductive branches, train- ing in their place first laterals. Never shorten a shoot unless absoiutely requi- site from want of space, much less prune so as to have numerous foreright spurs. All cherries bear upon very short studs with a terminal bud, on the branches from two years old and up- wards. The Morello bears chiefly on the previous year’s shoots, and very scantily on studs of the older branches. The Morello, therefore, requires the older laterals to be removed as often as their places can be supplied by young shoots. All studs and foreright shoots should be removed, especially from the Morello. Diseases.—The leaves are liable to be honey-dewed, especially in ill-drained soils; but gumming is the most weaken- ing disease. (See Honey-dew and Ez- travasated sap.) The Aphis cerasi, a black species, and . the red spider, sometimes attack the cherry on walls; and a still rarer enemy is described as follows, by Mr. Nai- smith:— *‘Our cherry trees, both in the open air and on the natural walls, particularly the tops of the young shoots, are much at- tacked with a small black insect, provin- cially called the black beetle. The remedy I have found most effectual for their destruction is a mixture of pitch with one-sixteenth part of powdered orpiment; one-sixteenth part ofsulphur, dissoived over a slow fire in an earthen pipkin, until they be well incorporated; when cold, divide into small pieces, about the size of a hen’s egg, and burn it under the trees with damp straw, di- recting the smoke as much as possible where the insects are most numerous. In an hour afterwards, (if the state of the fruit will admit.) give the trees a good washing with the garden engine, which generally clears off the half dead beetles, and prevents the spreading of the red spider..,—Enc. Gard. Forcing.—Mr. G. Shills, of Erskine House Gardens, says:—‘‘ For accelera- ting the ripening of cherries, I prefer the open flued wall. The cherries setting well without artificial assistance, and ripening in succession from the latter end of April till the latter end of June or ‘beginning of July, and with sufficient rapidity to supply a family with a dish daily during that period. About the middle of February, or when the buds naturally begin to swell, a little fire-heat is supplied in the evening and ‘in dull cloudy weather, kept up during the day; but in bright sunshine the fire is stopped about nine or ten A. M., and set on again about two P.M. . This practice is fol- lowed until the middle or latter end of May, when the fire-heat is discontinued. “¢ A jittle before the expansion of the blossom, which is about the beginning of March, the net is put over the tree, by fixing the upper side of it on nails fastened in the joints of the. coping near the edge, and the under side is tied to aie ae CHE 145 CHI ai femporary stakes about threé feet in height, placed three feet from the wall. About the middle of April the woollen net or double herring-net, together with the stakes, are taken away, and a single herring-net put close over the tree, to protect the ripening fruit from birds.” —Gard. Chron. The trees are trained in the fan form, with lateral bearing branches of from one to three feet in length, according to their strength, trained in between the principal branches. In all parts of the tree, these are allowed to continue several years. When they become bare of spurs, or inclined to get too luxuri- ant, they are cut out—young shoots to supply their place being previously pre- pared. ; CHERVIL, Parsley-leaved. Chero- phyllum sativum. Fern-leaved chervil, or Sweet Cicely, C. aromaticum, for soups, salads, &c. They are still culti- vated by the Dutch, but in this country are not often found in the kitchen gar- den. Soil and Situation.— The soil for these plants must be light, with a large portion of calcareous matter from super- abundant moisture. The situation can- not be too open; but a shelter from the meridian sun is beneficial. Time and Modes of Sowing.—The only sowing that can be depended upon must be performed in early autumn, im- mediately after the seed is ripe; for if kept until the following spring it will seldom germinate, or the seedlings are generally weak and die away, during the hot weather. If, however, it should fortunately retain its vegetitive powers, it may be sown early in the spring at short intervals, for use in spring and summer, and towards the end of July for autumn supply. Sow in drills eight inches apart. The plants are to be thinned to eight inches asunder, and to remain where they are raised. The only after cultivation required by them is to be kept clear of weeds. | The perennial sort, C. aromaticum, must be trimmed as directed for Sage. The leaves are fit to be gathered when from two to four inches in growth; in _ doing which they should be cut close, when the plants will shoot afresh. ; To obtain Seed.—Some of the autumn- raised plants must be left ungathered from; they flower in April, and ripen their ‘seed about June. Of the other 10 species, some must in a Jike manner be left untouched; they will flower about June, and ripen their seed in July or August. CHESTNUT. Fagus castanea.—In the London Horticultural Society’s list are twenty varieties enumerated. Ifthe seedlings are left ungrafted, they. are about thirty years before they bear fruit, but grafts inserted upon these seedling stocks from bearing branches, afford blossoms the next year, and are fruitful much earlier. . Soil.—A dry subsoil is the great re- quisite for this tree. It thrives best in a sandy well-drained soil. n After-culiure.—No other attention is required than to thin the over-crowded and to remove over-wrapping branches. Nuts.—These are ripe about October. They are best preserved in sand. CHICORY. See Succory, CHICKASAW PLUM. Cerasus chi. casa. CHILODIA. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and Joam. CHILOGLOTTIS diphylla. Half- hardy orchid. Division. Light turfy loam, turfy peat, and sand. CHIMAPHILA. Two species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Cuttings. Peaty soil. 3 CHIMONANTHUS fragrans, and varieties. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers or cuttings. Loam and peat, or any common soil. CHINA ASTER. Callistema. CHINA ROSE. Hibiscus rosasinensis. CHINESE TREE. Peonia moutan. CHIOCOCCA. Twospecies. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam and. peat. CHIONANTHUS. , Three species. Hardy and stove deciduous shrubs and trees. Seeds, buds, or grafts.. Peat and loam. CHIRONIA. Elevenspecies. Gree house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings, Peat and loam. C. decussata should be potted in light rich soil, and liberally watered during the summer months. Keep itin a good situation near the glass, where it gets plenty of light and air. Always keep some young plants to take the places of the old ones. ; CHITONIA. Five species. evergreen shrubs and trees. Peat and loam. Stove Cuttings. CHI CHIVE or CIVE (Allium Scheno- prasum). Is used as a very superior substitute for young onions in spring salading. A single row a few yards long, will supply a family. Sotl.—A light rich soil is most suit- able, but it will grow anywhere not overshadowed. Plant the offsets of the bulbs early i in spring. They are to be inserted by the dibble eight or ten inches apart, and eight or ten offsets in each hole. The only cultivation required is to keep them free from weeds. By autumn they multiply into large-sized bunches, and if required may be taken up as soon as the leaves decay, and be stored as a substitute for the onion. The leaves, which are fit for use as long as they remain green, must, when required, be cut down close to the ground, when they will speedily be succeeded by others. CHLIDANTHUS fragrans. Green- house bulbous perennial. Division. Two-thirds sandy loam, one-third sand and peat. © CHLOANTHES. Green-house evergreen shrubs. tings. Loam and peat. CHLORA. Two species. annuals. Seeds. Common soil. CHLORANTHUS. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. C. monas- tachye is herbaceous. Cuttings. Loam and peat. CHLORIDE OF LIME, or Bleaching Powder, is composed of Chlorine . 63.23 Byrn cy Oe apts 36.77 Exposed to the air it is converted into chalk, and muriate of lime, a salt which absorbs moisture from the air very powerfully. By this conversion it be- comes a useful addition to soils; and as it also gives out some chlorine gas, so offensive and destructive to insects, it wes been suggested as a useful applica- n to the land at the time of turnip sowing. CHLORODYLON swietenia. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Peat and loam. CHOCOLATE-NUT. Theobroma. CHOISYA ternata. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and loam. CHOKE. Cerasus hyemalis. CHOMELIA. Two species. evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. and peat. » Three species. Cut- Hardy Stove Loam 146 CHR CHORISPORA ftenella, and variety. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. CHOROMOZEMA. Eight species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Seeds or cuttings. Peat, loam, and sand. CHOU DE MILAN. See Borecole: CHRISTMAS ROSE. Helleborus niger. et CHRIST°S EYE. Inula oculus Christi. CHRIST’S THORN. Paliurus. CHRYSANTHEMUM. (C. sinense. Often designated the Chinese chrysan- themum. Varieties of this flower are numerous, but the following is as good a selection as can be made. Those to which an asterisk is prefixed, are most deserving of attention:— Abelard, quilled pink. Achmet Bey, dark purple. Adventure, yellow. Annie Jane, brownish red. Annie Salter, pale yellow. Aristides, orange and brown. , *Beaute de Verseilles, Meee Beauty, pale lilac. Helge buff and rose. Bertram, purplish rose. Bethulia, large purple. Bicolor, white and yellow. Bijou, white, tipped with pink. *Campestroni, purple. *Celestial, blush. Champion, lemon. Chancellor, white and nae Changeable, yellow. Columbus, rose. Compactum, white. Comte d’Eu, light red. Conductor, orange. Criterion, white. ) David, yellow. De Crequi, small 7 purple. Defiance, white. Demosthenes, yellow ua brown. =‘ *Duc de Conigliano, crimson. Duchess de Montebello, a rose. Empress, lilac. *Exquisite, white. Flechier, dark rose. Florabundum, dark lilae. *Formosum, white and yellow. General Laborde, lilac. *Goliath, white. Gouvain St. Cyr, orange. *Grand Napoleon, purple. Grandish, flesh colour. Hardy, biush white. — Horace, purplish rose. 2 eT = CHR Horatio, fine rose. Imogene, light buff. Imperial, pale lilac. *Incomparable, large buff. Invincible, creamy white. Irene, fine yellow. Isabella, white. Isolier, rosy red. Itobate, shaded rose. Ivanhoe, brown. *King, pale rose. ~ Letitia Buonaparte, blush. Lamarque, orange. Leontine, brownish red. ‘ Louis Philippe, purplish lilac. *Lucidum, white. Madame Mina, buff. *Madame Pompadour, dark rose. *Magnet, yellow. Malvina, purple. Marechal Soult, yellow. Marie, red. i Marie Antoinette, rose and buff. Marquis, light rose. Memnon, creamy white. *Minerva, pink and white. Mirabile, white and buff. *Ne Plus Ultra, white. Old Purple. Orion, creamy white. Perfection, pale lilac. *Phidias, rosy red. Phyllis, lemon. Prince Albert, amaranth. Princess de Lamalle, rosy lilac. *Princess Mario, light pink. *Queen, rose. _ Queen Victoria, lilac. Queen of Gipsies, orange. Queen of Yellows. — Reine de Prusse, rose. Rosetta, quilled pink. Saladin, orange purple. Sanguineum,red._ Sappho, reddish brown. Small, brown. : : Solon, yellow. . Surprise, white. Tasselled Yellow. Tedjini, yellowish brown. Timon, yellow. *Theresia, red. Triumphant, pink and buff. Two-coloured Incurved, yellow and brown. Venusta, amaranth. *Vesta, white. -Victorine, light rose. *Victory, white. | Zelinda, rosy blush. 147 CHR ——}>— Soi].—A warm sheltered well-drain- ed border, manured with leaf mould abundantly, for the out-door plants. For those in pots, four parts light fresh turfy loam, four parts leaf mould, and one part rubbly charcoal. In Borders, the stools require to be taken up and divided in early spring, not more than three suckers being. left united, otherwise the flowers are nu- merous and small. By Suckers in Pots.—Turn out the old pots in March ; separate the suckers by a gentle twist; plant three suckers’ in a thirty-two pot; shade them and shelter in a cold frame for about a fort- night; then expose them to the sun- shine; shift into larger pots as they increase in growth; place them ina gentle hot-bed in April, and keep them under the frame until the middle of May; when ten inches high, pinch off the tops ofeach stem. They will throw out shoots from each bud; retain only six shoots, removing all the others; plunge the pots in a sunny sheltered border; water daily in dry weather, and give liquid guano always once a week, so soon.as the flower buds ap- pear. Let the pots they flower in be sixteens, that is, nine’ inches in diame- | ter at the top. Move them into a very airy green-house. or conservatory, to bloom. — “¢ The shifting of the plants in the earlier part of the summer,” says a well-informed writer, “‘ should be par- ticularly attended to. If this is neglect- ed, no good after-management will save them from losing their leaves, and look- ing badly in autumn and winter. As soon as they are fairly starting into growth, the top of each should be nip- ped with the finger and thumb, which will cause several shoots to spring from the under part of the plant, and thus form it into a compact bush. This may be repeated two or three times with — advantage in the earlier part. of the - season, with the free flowering kinds; but after the plant is fairly formed it should be discontinued, otherwise the flowering will be . injured.?? — Gard. Chron. Cuttings.—The same authority says, © that ‘* the proper time for striking cut- tings depends upon the objects which the propagator has in view. Nursery- |men who want a good stock of a par- ticular kind may propagate it at almost CHR 148 CIB ee any season, and generally begin very early in spring. But, for ordinary pur- poses, from _ the nanddile of March to the middle of April i is quite soon enough; and the amateur can then do so without any artificial heat, which is of great consequence to those who have very limited gardens. ‘< It matters very little whether the cuttings are taken off with roots or without them, as in the latter case they will form them in a few days, and soon. begin to grow rapidly. The frame should be kept very close, moist, and shaded, until the cuttings have formed, roots for their support; when this takes place, a little air may be admitted grad- ually as the plants will bear it,and then afterwards they must be fully exposed.” —Gard. Chron. After-Culture.—< After the flowering season is past, and the old stems cut down, the plants should be removed from the green-house or conservatory, and placed in a cold frame, where they are merely protected from severe frost. Here they should have plenty of air, and on fine days the lights should be drawn quite off, and the plants fully exposed. When the winter is mild, they will stand very wel! unprotected ; but owing to their having been grown and excited in the green-house, they are more apt to suffer from severe weather than if they had been planted out in the open air. For this reason it is always better to have the means of giving them some slight protection. If they are kept too close and warm in winter, they begin to grow fast: the leaves are yellow, and the stems weak, and consequently they form bad cut- tings when the season of propagation comes round. protected and attended to, as has been already described, they grow slowly, and make excellent cuttings. Those who wish to make very large specimens of these plants with little trouble, some- times plant them out in a rich border in April or May, as soon as the cuttings are rooted. Here they grow with great luxuriance, and are very large and bushy, when the time comes for taking them up, and removing them into the green-house. In autumn, they are taken up very carefully, and placed in a shaded situation for a few days, until they re- cover from the effects of the operation, and are then taken to the green-house. But if they are merely | There is another plan for making small dwarf flowering specimens, which de- serves especial notice. The young shoots which have grown to a consider- able length, have their points ‘ layered? about the month of August, in small pots. As soon as they are well rooted, they are cut from the parent stock, re- potted, and placed for a short time in a shaded place until they recover. They are then subjected to the same treat- ment as the others, and generally flower on stems about a foot or eighteen inches in height.°—Gard. Chron. Give liquid guano twice a week so soon as the flower buds are well formed. Seed should be saved, and crosses effected, from semi-double flowers. . Mildew.—‘* At the end of summer chrysanthemums are extremely liable to be infected with mildew. Those plants upon which it makes its appearance, should be immediately separated from the rest, and well dusted with flowers of sulphur. This should be allowed to remain on them at least a day or two, and may afterwards be washed off with a syringe or garden engine.??—Gard. Chron. A very weak solution of com- mon salt syringed repeatedly over the leaves, and, after remaining a few hours, washed off by a syringing with pure water, would be equally effectual. CHRYSEIS. Three species. Hardy tuberous-rooted perennials. Seeds. Rich soil. CHRYSIPHIALA. Four species. Green-house bulbous perennials. - Off- sets. Light loam. CHRYSOCOMA. Fourteen species. Hardy herbaceous perennials, and stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. CHRYSOPHYLLUM. Six species, and some varieties. Stove evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. CHRYSOSPLENIUM. Three spe- cies. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Moist soil. CHRYSOSTEMMA tripteris. Hardy herbaceous perennial. Division... Peat and Joam. CHYSIS aurea. Division. Wood. CIBOTIUM Billardieri. Green-house evergreen tree fern. Division. and peat. CIBOUL, or WELSH ONION. Al- lium fistulosum. This is a perennial, never forming any bulb, but is sown Stove epiphyte. Loam | 4 CIC . 149 CIN =e anriually, to be drawn young for salads, &c. On account of its strong taste, it is greatly inferior to the common onion for this purpose; but from its extreme hardness in withstanding the severest frost, it may be cultivated with advan- tage as a winter-standing crop for spring use. Varieties.—Two varieties are in cul- tivation, the white and the red; the first of which is in general use. _ Cultivation.—As it may be ‘sown at ali times with the onion, and is simi- larly cultivated, except that it may be sown thicker, and only thinned as wanted, the direction given for that vegetable will suffice. The blade usu- ally dies away completely in winter, but fresh ones are thrown out again in Feb- -ruary or March. To obtain Seed.—To obtain seed some of the roots must be planted out in March, six or eight inches asunder. The first autumn they will produce but little seed; in the second and third, however, it will be produced abundant- ly. If care is taken to part and trans- plant the roots every two or three years, they may be multiplied, and will re- main productive for many years, and afford much better seed than that from one-year-old roots. Scallions.—There is good reason for concluding that bya confusion of names, arising from similarity of appearance, this vegetable is the true scallion, whilst the hollow leek of Wales is the true Welsh onion; for the description of scallion, as given by Miller, accords exactly with that of the Welsh onion. At present all onions that have refused to bulb, and formed lengthened necks and strong blades in spring and sum- mer, are called scallions. CICCA. disticha. Stove evergreen fruit tree. ahomghl cuttings. Sandy loam. CIMICIFUGA. Fourspecies. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Seeds. Common soil. CINCHONA. Two species. Stove evergreen tree@and shrub. Ripe cut- tings. Loam and peat. CINERARIA. Fifty-four species. Chiefly hardy and green-house herba- ceous; but some green-house ever- green shrubs. It isa genus of florists’ flowers, and the varieties which they have raised are very numerous. A good selection is the following :— Eclipse; Gem; Nobilis; Perfecta; Queen Victoria; Rival King; Royal Blue; Sapphire; Splendida; Water- housiana; and Webberiana. Characteristics of Excellence.—The cineraria does not exhibit so much im- provement as most florists’? flowers. ‘¢ The petals should be thick, broad, blunt, and smooth at the ends, closely set, and form a circle without much indentation. The centre, or yellow disk, should be less than one-third of the diameter of the whole flower; in other words, the coloured circle formed by the petals should be wider all round than the disk measures across. The colour should be brilliant, whether shaded or self; or if it be a white it should be very pure. ‘© The trusses of flower should be Jarge and close, and even on the sur- face, the individual flowers standing together with their edges touching each other, however numerous they may be. The plant should be dwarf. Thestems strong, and not longer than the width across the foliage; in other words, from the upper surface of the truss of the flower to the leaves where the stem starts from should not be a greater distance than from one side of the foli- age to the other.”"—Hort. Mag. Propagation by Seed.—** Sow in May in the open border; thin out the plants where they are crowded, and transplant them when they have three good leaves, and pot them to remain in October.”— Gard. Chron. Propagation by Cuttings.—< After the bloom has perfected itself and de- cayed, cut down the stems, stir the earth upon the surface, then earth up with fresh compost, filling the pot rather full than otherwise; refresh the plants with a little water, and place them inthe frame again; orif youhave none convenient, in a dry and sheltered place in the garden. ‘“¢The growth of a few weeks will’ enable you to detect side shoots, some with roots, and some without roots, and leave only the main plant in the pot, which should be earthed up again, and set by. The shoots which have no roots to them should be stripped of two or three of the bottom leaves, that they may be placed in a pot of the usual sort of compost that the plant may have been growing in, with a little sand at top, say a quarter of an inch thick, and CIN 150 CIR ——_$—_— covered with a bell glass; or if there |supply of flowers may be had from Sep- be enough, they may be placed a dozen tember to the end of June. or two in a large pan, and a glass that will fit inside the rim, covered over them. They must never be allowed to dry. The glasses should be occasion- ally wiped dry inside. Whether there be one cutting or a dozen, they should be so placed that the glass can be pressed into the sand to keep out the air until they have all struck. ‘s They can always be watered with- out disturbing the glass, if it be pro- perly placed inside the rim, because by watering over the glass, the whole can be soaked ; but the drainage must e good, or they will rot. “ Tf you happen to have a dbeliawna hot-bed in which there remains a little bottom ,heat, the pan or pots may be placed therein. It will rather hasten the striking. Those side-shoots which have roots to them may be immediately potted into sixty-sized pots, and treated the same as seedlings just potted off. In a few weeks the cuttings will have struck, which will be indicated by their beginning to grow ; they may be potted off also, as seedlings are potted, in sixty-sized pots. Here the treatment is just the same as that directed for seedlings.”»—Hort. Mag. Afier-Culture.—** About the first week in June, the plants being removed from the green-house, and turned out of their pots, the old earth shaken from their roots, plant rather deeply, and about eighteen inches apart in light rich soil in the open garden, and water as often as they seem to require it. By the end of July, they throw up myriads of suckers; they are then taken up and parted, preserving the smallest atom that has a root to it. The largest plants are potted in pots proportionate to their size, in a compost consisting of leaf mould, rotten dung, and strong turfy loam, in about equal quantities, and placed inashady situation. These will flower in September and October, and will do well either for the house, or for filling up beds, or vacancies in the flower garden. The other plants are replanted in the open garden, wa- tered, and shaded until established, taken up with balls, and potted about the end of October, and protected from frost in a cold frame’ or pit through the winter. In this manner, and by keep- ing plants of various sizes, a regular Single plants in thirty-two or twenty-four-sized pots are large enough. No plants suf- fer so much from being crowded toge- ther; indeed, when short of room it is better to throw away a few plants than have the whole cramped for room.”?— Gard. Chron. Winter-blooming. _— When the cine- rarias have done flowering, cut off all the flower-stems and old leaves, and place them in a cold pit or frame, which must be kept rather close for two or three weeks to cause the plants to grow; afterwards admit air freely by day, but keep them close at night; then about the beginning of August divide the old plants. into pieces, and put them into small pots filled with a mixture of good Joam and sandy peat, to which may be added a small portion of well-rotted dung. When potted, return them to the pit or frame, and keep them close; afterwards, as they grow, shift them into larger pots, and use a little manure- water; and finally, as the danger of frost approaches, remove them to the green-house, where they will bloom well all the winter and spring, if kept free from insects.’>—Gard. Chron. CINNAMOMUM. Cinnamon. ven species. Stove evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. CINNAMON. Cinnamomum. CION. See Scion. CIRCA. Three species. herbaceous perennials. Offsets. mon soil. CIRCUMPOSITION differs from lay- ering, only that in this the shoot to be topted is bent down to the soil, whilst in circumposition the soil is placed in a vessel and raised to the shoot. There are pots called layering pots made for this. practice, and differing from the common garden pot, only by having a Bile; Hardy Com- section about an inch broad cut through one side, and to the centre of the bot- © tom, for the admission of the shoot or — branch. M. Foulup employs small tin cases of a conical form, like the upper part of a funnel, inches: in length, and two and a sixth two and three-quarter — inches in width at top, narrowing to- i wards the lower part till only sufficient — room is left for the introduction of the shoot or branch intended to be propa- __ gated. These cones are supported on CIR rods, to which they are secured by wire. Commencing with the central branches, the leaves are taken from the parts which the tin-is intended to inclose; the branch is cut two-thirds through as in layering, and being enclosed by the funnel, the latter is well packed with moss. Moisture necessary for favour- ing the emission of roots is supplied by means of a bottle, from which the bot- tom is struck off, and the neck furnished with a cork, perforated so as to admit a small pigeon’s feather or bit of wool to form a syphon, by means of which the moss is kept in a proper state of moisture. Hard-wooded plants are pro- pagated in this way from the middle of May till the end of June; and the branches are sufficiently rooted to be taken off by the end of September. It is, however, necessary in all cases, to ascertain whether the branches are suffi- ciently rooted previously to their being separated. This is easily done by open- ing up the edges of the tin; when the branches are found to ;be sufficiently rooted they are potted off without re- moving the moss by which the roots are surrounded. Being moderately watered, they are immediately placed under glass on a slight hot-bed, and kept shut up fora fortnight. They are then gradually exposed, and afterwards placed in the shade of large trees, so that only half the rays of the sun shall reach them.*?—Gard. Chron. ~CIRRHAA. Six species. epiphytes. Division. Wood. -CIRROPETALUM. Seven species. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood. CIRSIUM. Kighty-six species. Hardy annuals, biennials, and herbace- ous perennials. Seeds or division. Common soil. CISSAMPELOS. Six species. Stove or green-house climbers. Cuttings. Sandy peat. CISSUS. Seventeen species. Stove or green-house evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Light rich soil. : CISTERNS for the accumulation of rain-water should be formed in connec- tion with the gutters of the various buildings in the gardens, for no water is equal to it for the artificial supply of moisture to plants. CISTUS. Thirty-nine species. and varieties. Hardy evergreen shrubs. it or ripened cuttings. Common soil. Stove 151 CIT CITHAREYLUM. Nine species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Peat and loam. CITRON. Citrus. CITRUS. Fourteen species. Green- house evergreen fruit trees or shrubs, budding or grafting, and sometimes cuttings. Rich loamy soil mixed with dung. For the structure of a house suitable for their cultivation, see Orangery. The following extracts from an essay by. Mr. Jones, gardener at Knowsley, exhibits the successful practice in cul- tivating this genus, pursued by Mr. Durden, gardener at Hurst House, Lan- cashire. Varieties.—Those who wish to culti- vate the orange tree for the sake of the ” fruit, ought to be very careful in making a selection of sorts, especially of sweet oranges. The best way, perhaps, is to procure grafts or young plants from such varie- ties as have proved themselves to be good in other establishments, or proved plants from-a nursery. Soil.—Too much attention cannot be paid to the soil ; its principal features ought to be lightness, richness, and openness of texture, and unless it pos- sess these qualities it is unfit for the orange tribe. Water.—This must at all times be sparingly administered, especially if the trees are kept in a high moist tem- perature. Occasionally give a little weak liquid manure. Temperature.—lIt is doubtless an erro- neous opinion, that if the atmospheric . temperature is 8° to 10° above the freezing point during winter, and is never allowed to rise above 70° or 809 during summer, that the orange tribe, other “circumstances being favourable, may be cultivated successfully. Mr. Durden never allows the temperature of his house to fall below 50° during the winter season, and during summer retains a moist atmosphere of 80° or 90°. “ After-Culture.—In pruning, if the plants are trained on trellises, the branches should be kept thin to allow the greater part of the leaves to be ex- posed tothe sun. The fruit is generally produced at the tips of the small spurs or brackets; therefore it would be a positive injury to the crop to shorten any of these spurs, except it is desirable CLA to increase their number. The opera- tion of pruning is performed at any time when it appears to be necessary, aiways, however, taking care to have a suc- cession of young wood coming in. In thinning the fruit, particular attention ought to be paid to the state of the tree, for the quantity of fruit must be entirely regulated by the vigour of the tree; no better rule can be Jaid down than that for governing the operation of thinning. If a tree appears debilitated in the extreme, it must not be allowed to carry any fruit for an entire season. One cause of debility is, allowing the fruit to remain long after itis ripe. Of that required for confectionary purposes a larger quantity may be left on the trees, but it must always be propor- tioned to the capabilities of the tree. Cleaning the Plants.—The greatest attention should be paid to cleanliness ; the consequences of allowing insects to overrun a collection of plants are fami- liar to every one acquainted with gar- dening. ‘¢ The aphis attacks the tender shoots and young leaves; the red spider the more advanced foliage; and the coccus hesperidum every part of the plant. ‘© Almost every gardener has his pe- culiar nostrum for destroying these ani- mals ; but a good preventive is cleanli- ness in everything about the plants. «‘ The coccus may be brushed off, using a brush that is no harder than is just necessary to remove the insect. ‘¢ For the thrips red spider, and aphis, a sponge and clean water will remove them all, ifused before the insects have become very numerous. ‘< Fumigation should never be re- sorted to except in extreme cases. ‘¢ The leaves should also be cleaned with a damp sponge as often as they appear clogged by dust adhering to the resinous exudations on their surface.’’— (Gard. Chron.—Gard. Almanack.) CLADANTHUS. Twospecies. Hardy annual and half hardy evergreen shrub. Seeds. Common soil. CLARKIA. Three species and va- riety. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Com- mon soil. CLARY. (Salvia sclarea.) Its leaves are sometimes used in soups and medi- cated wines. A very small number of plants are sufficient for a family. .Sow early in April, or a month earlier in any light-soiled border. Thin the 152 —-~+9——_ CLA plants to two feet apart. The sowing must be annual. Seed may be saved by allowing some plants to run up the next spring; they ripen their seed in September. CLAUSEN Apentaphylla. Stove ever- green tree. Cuttings. Rich loam. CLAVIJA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam. CLAY is a constituent of all fertile soils, though in these it rarely exceeds one-sixteenth part, and generally bears a much smaller relative proportion to the other constituents. In its pure state itis known as alumina. It is the best of all additions to light, unretentive soils, for it retains moisture much more powertully than any other earth. M. Schubler found, that when silicious sand lost eighty-eight parts of moisture, and chalky sand seventy-six, stiff clay in the same time lost only thirty-five parts. When clay has to be conveyed in large quantities, and to a distance, it should be dug and laid exposed in rough spits to the air for several days before it is carted, and, indeed, so should all earths; for, as Mr. Cuthbert Johnson states in his valuable Farmer’s Encyclopedia, if one hundred cubic yards of chalk, clay, or marl have to be moved, by drying previously they will lose in weight as follows :— Chalk P E 20 to 24 tons. Clay . : 32S 42 #6 Marl é A 184°, 26. 86 For the improvement of clay lands, by rendering their staple less retentive, — ri burning some of their own soil is an efficient application. One hundred tons per acre for this purpose are not too many ; fora dressing as a manure, thirty tons are a good quantity. The follow- ing is the mode of burning clay. ‘‘ Let sods be cut of a convenient size to handle, say a foot wide and eighteen inches in length; with these form a parallelogram or long square; let the walls be a couple of feet thick, and trampled or beaten firmly together, and raised at least three feet high; the first heap should be so situated, that the wind may blow against one of its sides; it may be from four to six yards long, by three yards wide, and an aperture — within one yard of each end, and others at a distance of about five feet from these should be left in the side walls, when building, for the purpose of form- | CLA ’ ing drain-like openings across the heap; make one of these drain-like openings from end toend in length; these funnels are to be built also with sods; some dry turf, such as is used for fuel, is to be put into these funnels and over it, and between the funnels well-dried sods or any other combustible materials are to be laid on to the depth of a couple of feet over these sods, partially dried to the level of the walls; these materials being set on fire, a powerful heat will be produced, quite capable of burning clay, without previously drying it. Care, however, will be necessary to avoid throwing it on in too great a quantity at once, until the fire is well up, when a large quantity may be thrownon. The sod walls are to be raised as the heap rises; and as soon as it is perceived by the strength of the smoke and glow of heat, that the mass is ignited in all its parts, the apertures may be closed up, and the heap left to become charred ; should appearances indicate a likeli- hood of the fire being smothered, it will only become necessary to open one or more of the funnels to secure ‘its acting. Ifthe land on which the burned or charred clay is to be applied be defi- cient in calcareous matter, earth con- taining it, if burned, would improve it much. If well done, there is no im- provement so cheap, and at the same time so valuable; if, on the other hand, the burning is hurried,-or the fires neg- lected, the consequence will be, either the clay will be burned into lumps like brick ends that will not fall to pieces when exposed to the air, or the clay will not be charred or burned at all; therefore, the heat should always be slow and steady, never, if possible, burning the clay red, but black. This is difficult to manage, depending much upon the wind, stopping up the aper- ture upon the windward side, and open- ing that on the other side. “The whole time the heaps are burning will take from two to three months, the time de- pending much on the weather; from sixty to one hundred yards may be burned in a heap; and if there be not sufficient sod, coarse turf, bushes; &c.,. on the spot to keep up a sufficient body of fire at the commencement, wood of any kind, or small coal, must be used.»? —Gard. Chron. sy yeti _ Clay soils are the worst that can be for gardens, for there is scarcely one of 153 —~_@——_—-- CLI the crops there cultivated that is not in- jured by stagnant water, which can scarcely be prevented in clay soils at some seasons; and in wet weather clayey soils cannot be worked, whereas the gardener must be inserting or at- tending to his crops every day. CLAYTONIA. Fifteen species. Har- dy annuals or tuberous-rooted peren- nials. Seeds. Peat soil. CLEMATIS. Fifty species, and many varieties, chiefly climbers. ‘The stove and green-house species grow well in a light loam and peat soil, and increase from cuttings. The hardy her- baceous kinds, divisions. The hardy deciduous, !ayers. Common soil. CLEOME.. Twenty species. Stove or hardy annuals, biennials, or ever- green shrubs. Cuttings or seeds. Rich light soil. ge 4 CLEONIA c‘usttanica. Hardy annual. Seeds. Common soil. ; CLERODENDRUM. Forty species. Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs. C. volubile, a climber. Cuttings. A rich soil of loam, rotten dung, and sandy eat. CLETHRA. Nine species. Hardy deciduous or stove green-house ever: green shrubs. Cuttings. Peat earth, or light sandy loam. The hardy kinds in- crease also by layers. CLEYERA japonica. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy eat. CLIANTHUS puniceus. Half hardy evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. CLICK-BEETLE. See Wireworm. CLIDEMIA. Twelve species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peatand loam. : CLIFFORTIA. Sixteen species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings of the young wood. Peat and loam. )}CLIMATE controls the growth of plants most imperatively, and in the cultivation of his fruits, flowers, and culinary vegetables, it forms the’ first object of the gardener’s inquiry. He must first know the climate in which any given plant is native; and second- ly, the sgil which it affects, before he can cultivate it successfully. How all- influential is climate appears from the fact, that different countries have often a totally different Flora on soils similar in constitution. Thus, as is observed CLI 154 CLI —— by Decandolle and Sprengel, in The Philosophy of Plants, ‘‘ there are a great many perfect plants which ex- _ clusively belong to the tropics, which never pass beyond them, and which are found equally in Asia and Africa, in America and the South Sea Islands, and even in New Holland. Although, as we have said, these are rather families, as Palme Scitaminee, Musee, Sapin- dee, and Anonee ; or genera, as Epi- dendrum, Santalum, Olax, Cymbidium, and so forth; yet there are particular species, which grow in all parts of the world only between the tropics, as for instance, Heliotropium Indicum, Age- ratum conyzoides, Pistie stratiotes, Scoparia dulcis, Guilandina, Bonduc, Sphenoclez zeylanica, Abrus precato- rius, Boerhavia mutabilis, and so forth. But most commonly there are other species, which, under the same degree of latitude, supply in the new world the place of related species in the old. Dryas octopetala, indeed, grows equal- ly upon the mountains of Canada, and in Europe; but Dryas tenella of Pursh, which is very like the former, grows only in Greenland and Labrador. In- stead of the Platanus Orientalis, there rows in North America the Platanus Occidentalis; instead of Pinus Cembra, ..In Europe and Asia, there grows in North, America Pinus Strobus; instead of Prunus Laurocerasus, in Asia Minor, there grows under the same latitude in North America the Prunus Caroliniana. There are many exceptions to this rule, however, depending on circumstances that have been already noticed. Inthe first place, countries are wont to share their Floras with neighbouring regions, especially islands lying under the same latitude, as the Azores possess the Floras of Europe and of Northern Af- rica, rather than those of America, be- cause they are scarcely ten degrees of longitude from the coast of Portugal. Sicily, and, still more, Malta, possesses a Flora made up of those of the South of Europe and the North of Africa. The Aleutian Islands share their Flora with the north-west coast of America, and the north-east of Asia. But the most distant countries, lying under the same latitude, may have the same Or a simi- lar vegetation, while countries or isl- ands which lie between them, have not the least share in this particular Flora. The island of St. Helena, which is ent vegetation. scarcely eighteen degrees of longitude from the west-of Africa, and which lies a little further south than Congo, has yet no plants, which are found in those last-named regions. (Roxburgh’s List of Plants seen in the Island of St. He- lena, appended to Beatson’s Island of St. Helena.) Japan has a great many plants. common to Southern Europe, which, however, are not found in those regions of Asia that lie under the same latitude. We must further remark, that the eastern countries of the old world, and the eastern shores of America, as far as the Alleghany Mountains, have a much lower temperature than the western regions; and that it isalways colder in Siberia and the north-east of Asia, than under the same latitude in Europe and, that even Petersburgh is colder than Upsal, and Upsal than Christiania ; although they all three lie in the six- tieth degree of north latitude. In North America. the difference is still greater, and there are commonly fifteen degrees of Fahrenheit’s thermometer between the temperature of the east and west coast. It hence happens that many plants which in Norway grow under the polar circle, scarcely reach the sixtieth degree, on the limits be- tween Asia and Europe. To this class belong the Silver Fir, Mountain Ash, Trembling Poplar, Black Alder, and Juniper. Even in the temperate zone, the vegetation of many trees ceases sooner in the east than in the west. In Lithuania and Prussia, under the fifty- third degree, neither vines nor peaches nor apricots thrive : at least their fruit does not ripen, as also happens in the middle of England. The most remark- able example of this great difference of temperature is furnished by the Mespi- lus Japonica, which grows at Nanga Sacki, and Jeddo, under the thirty-third and thirty-sixth degrees of north lati- tude ; and which also growsin the open air in England, under the fifty-second degree of north latitude, when it is planted against a wall.—Botanical Re» ‘gister, Vol. V. The same degree of latitude in the southern and northern hemisphere, are connected with very different tempera- tures, and produce a completely differ- This, however, must be understood rather of the temperate and frigid zones, than of the tropical an eyo CLI 155 CLI - ———)--— ; climates, which, as we have already no- | fruit of little flavour.. In Southern Af- ticed, are pretty much the same over the whole earth. But the summer is shorter in the southern hemisphere, be- cause the motion of the earth in her ‘perigee is more rapid. The summer is there also colder, because the greater quantity of ice over the vast extent of sea requires more heat for dis- - solving it than can be obtained ; as also because the sunbeams are not reflected in such quantity from the clear surface of the sea water, as to afford the proper degree of heat. It thence happens that in the southern hemisphere the Flora of the pole extends nearer the equator, than in the northern. Under the 53d and 54th degrees of latitude, we meet with plants which correspond with the Arctic Flora. In Magellan’s Land, and in Terra del Fuego, Betula antarctica corresponds with Betula nana in Lap- land; Empetrum rubrum with Empe- trum nigrum—Arnica oporina with Ar- nica montana—Geum Magellanica with Geum rivale in England—Saxifraga Magellanica with Saxifraga rivularis in Finmark. Instead of Andromeda tetra- gona and hypnoides of Lapland, Terra del Fuego produces Andromeda myrsi- nites; in place of Arbutus alpina and Uva ursi of the Arctic polar circle, Terra del Fuego produces Arbutus mu- cronata, microphylla, and pumila. Aria antarctica reminds us of the Holcus al- pina of Wahlenburgh; and Pinguicula antarctica recalls to our recollection Pinguicula alpina. We must recollect, however, that in South America the great mountain chains of the Andes stretch from the, tropical regions, al- most without interruption, to the Straits of Magellan (from the 52d to the 53d degree of S. lat.), and that, on this ac- count, tropical forms are seen in that frigid southern zone, because the tract of mountains everywhere determines vegetation. Itis hence that the straits of Magellan are prolific of Coronariz, Onagre, Dorsteniz, and Heliotropiz, which in other parts of the world grow only within the tropics, or in their neighbourhood. In general the vege- tation of the southern hemisphere is very different from that of the northern; and there is a certain correspondence between the Floras of Southern Africa, America, and New Holland. Most of _ the trees are woody with stiff leaves, blossoms sometimes magnificent, but ‘rica, as well as in New Holland, it is the form of the Protee which prevails, as if appropriated to these regions.. In- stead of the South American Erice, we find the Epacride of New Holland ; Lo- belie, Diosme, and a great number of rare forms of compound blossoms and of umbellate, are common to all these southern regions.? Now, the reason for these differences is, that the countries thus contrasted differ in climate—that is, they differ in the intensity and duration of light and heat they enjoy—they differ in the con- trast of their day and night tempera- tures—they differ in the relative length of the day and night—they differ.in the length of their summer and winter, or, which is synonymous, in the relative length of their periods of vegetable ac- tivity and rest—they differ also in the amount of rain which falls, not only an- nually, but at particylar seasons—they differ in having much atmospheric moist- ure deposited in the form of rain or dew, or snow, at different periods of vegetable activity or rest. Now, what- ever these differences are, whatever the peculiarities of a climate are from which a plant comes, the gardener can- not cultivate it successfully unless he secures to that plant those climatal dif- ferences and peculiarities. CLIMBERS are plants which attach themselves to supporters by their natu- ral appendages, as either by their ten- drils or by their hooks. CLINOPODIUM. Three _ species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division or seeds. Common soil. CLINTONIA. Two species. An- nuals. C. elegans may be sown where it is to remain in the open borders, but C. pulchella requires its seedlings to be raised in a green-house or under a frame.—‘ If it is sown as soon as the seed is ripe, in two-thirds leaf mould, -and one-third common soil, with a little sand, care being taken to make the soil firm enough to prevent the seed from being dislodged in watering 5 where it is intended to have beds of it in the flower garden, it may be planted out in the beginning of March: none of the frosts that happen after that time will injure it. va ‘‘If the seedlings were planted out in the autumn, early enough to take root in the soil before the winter, there CLI 156 CLU ———_— is no doubt they would prove as hardy as any of the Californian annuals, and, like them, succeed better in that way, than if sown or planted out in the spring.’—Gard. Chron. CLIPPING hedges should be confined to those of the commonest and hardiest varieties of shrubs, as those of hawthorn and privet. The shears may, however, be used with great advantage by expert operators, even on the most delicate plants used for ornamental hedges. Clipping of deciduous hedges is most advantageously performed in the spring and early summer. shoots are then induced, which secures that chief desideratum in hedges—thick- ness and closeness of texture. CLISIOCAMPA neustria, the Lacky Moth, flies only at night. It appears about July, and its eggs are laid round the twigs of trees inthe form of a broad band of about three hundred eggs, closely glued together, and resembling a ring of seed lac. The caterpillars striped longitudinally blue, red, and yellow, appear from these in the April or May following. They congregate in large nests at the forks of the small branches, and are then easily crushed en masse. They enter the chrysalis state at the end of June, and then they are to be found in cocoons between two leaves, &c. ‘Tn June they are full grown and about an inch in length, gray striped with blue, red, and yellow, and having but few hairs. The caterpillar spins between two leaves a thin web of an oval form, and it becomes a longish brown pupa, in which state it remains for three weeks or amonth. In July the moth appears, which in size and colour, is not unlike the silkworm moth. Its colour is light yellow, and some- times dark olive colour. The upper wings are banded, and the lower wings are generally of a uniform brownish colour. The male is readily known from the female, by its strongly pecti- nated antenne and thinner body. The insect flies only at night, and conse- quently is rarely seen. It often appears in considerable numbers, and does not confine its ravages to fruit trees, but attacks many other trees; such as beeches, elms, poplars, oaks, and even pines. The best means of lessening the devastations committed by the insect is, in the winter season, carefully to A multitude of search the fruit trees for the bands of eggs laid on the branches, and to crush them. In May, when the caterpillars are living in society, the nests contain- ing them should be collected and de- stroyed. Care must be taken when col- lecting the nests, for if the caterpillars are much disturbed, they let themselves down to the ground by means of a thin silken thread, and escape. In July — their cocoons should be looked for on the trees between the leaves, in the roofs of sheds, and even on the tops of walls.°—Gard. Chron. CLITORIA. .Thirteén species. Chiefly stove or green-house evergreen climbers. C. mariana is a half hardy deciduous. Cuttings, seeds. Loam, peat, and sand, CLIVIA nobilis. Green-house ever- green bulbous plant. Division, seeds. Rich sandy loam. CLOUDBERRY. Rubus chamemorus. CLOVE. Dianthus caryophyllus, CLOVER TREE, Caryophyllus. CLOWESIA rosea. Stove shrub. Cuttings. Rich loam, ) CLUB ROOT. See Ambury. CLUMPS when close are sometimes called Thickets,and when open Groups of Trees. They differ only in extent from a wood, if they are close, or from a grove, if they are open; they are smal! woods, and small groves, governed by the same principles as the larger, after allowances made for their dimensions, But besides the properties they may have in common with woods, or with groves, they have others peculiar to themselves. They are either indepen- dent or relative; when independent, their beauty as single objects is solely to be attended to; when relative, the beauty of the individuals must be sacri- ficed to the effect of the whole, which is the greater consideration. The least clump that can be, is of two trees ; and the best effect they can have, is, that their heads united should appear one large tree ; two, therefore, of different species, or seven or eight of such shapes as do not easily join, can hardly be a beautiful group, especially if it have a tendency to a circular form. Such clumps of firs, though very common, are seldom pleasing ; they do not com- pose one mass, but are only a confused number of pinnacles. The ‘confusion — is, however, avoided by placing them in succession, not in clusters; and a CLU 157 CNE ———es clump of such trees is therefore more agreeable when it is extended rather in Jength than in breadth. Three trees together must form.either a right line or a triangle; to disguise the regularity, the distances should be very different. Distinctions in their shapes contribute also to the same end ; _and variety in their growths still more. When a straight line consists of two trees nearly similar, and of a third much lower than they are, the even direction in- which they stand is hardly dis- cernible. If humbler growths at the extremity can discompose the strictest regularity, the use of it is thereby recommended upon other occasions. Itis, indeed, the variety peculiarly proper for. clumps: every apparent artifice affecting the ob- jects of nature,‘disgusts ; and clumps are such distinguished objects, so liable to the suspicion of having been left or placed on purpose to be so distinguish- ed, that, to divert the attention from these symptoms of art, irregularity in the composition is more important to them, than to a wood orto a grove. ‘Being also less extensive, they do not admit so much variety of outline; but variety of growths is most observable in a small compass, and the several gradations may often be cast into beau- tiful figures. The extent and the outline of a wood Or a grove, engage the attention more than the extremities; but in clumps these last are of the most consequence ; they determine the form of the whole, and both of them are generally in sight: great care should therefore be taken to make them agreeable and different. The ease with which they may be com- pared, forbids all similarity between them ; for every appearance of equality suggests an idea of art, and therefore a clump as broad as it is long, seems less the work of nature than one which stretches into length. Another peculiarity of clumps is the facility with which they admit a mixture of trees and of shrubs, of wood and of grove; in short, of every species of plan- tation. None are more beautiful than those which are so composed. Such compositions are, however, more proper in compact than in straggling clumps ; they are most agreeable when they form one mass. If the transitions from very lofty to very humble growths, from thicket to open plantations, be frequent and sudden, the disorder is more suited to rude than to elegant scenes. | The occasions on which independent clumps may be applied are many. They are often desirable as beautiful objects in themselves; they are sometimes ne- cessary to break an extent of lawn, or a continued line, whether of ground or of plantation; but on all occasions, a jealousy of art constantly attends them, which irregularity in their figure will not always alone remove. Though ele- vations show them to advantage, yet a hillock evidently thrown up on purpose to be crowned with a clump, is artificial to a degree of disgust; some of the trees should therefore be planted on the sides to take off that appearance. The same expedient may be applied to clumps placed on the brow of a hill, to interrupt its sameness; they will have less ostentation of design if they are in part carried down either de- clivity. A line of clumps, if the intervals be closed by others beyond them, has the appearance of a wood, or of a grove; and in one respect the semblance has an advantage over the reality in dif- ferent points of view; the relations be- tween the clumps are changed, and a variety of forms is produced, which no continued wood or. grove, however broken, can furnish. These forms can- not all be equally agreeable, and too anxious a solicitude to make them every- where pleasing, may, perhaps, prevent their being ever beautiful. The effect must often be left to chance, but it should be studiously con- sulted from a few principal points of viéw ; and it is easy to make any recess, any prominence, any figure in the out- line, by clumps thus advancing before, or retiring behind one another.??— Whateley. CLUSIA. Four species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Light sandy loam. i CLUYTIA. Twelve species. Green- house or stove evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Loam and peat. CLYPEOLA. Two species. annuals. Seeds. Common soil. CNEORUM. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam. CNESTIS. Three species. Stove Hardy COA 158 ~ coc ——_o—— “4 evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy| fests that fruit, the hibiscus, justitia, peat. &§c. COAL. See Fuel. << ©. adonidum. Mealy Bug. This COAL ASHES. See Ashes. feeds on tropical plants, with which it COBQ:A scandens. Half hardy ever-| has been introduced into our hot-houses, green climber. Seeds or cuttings. Peat and loam. COBURGHIA. Three species. Green- house and half hardy bulbous peren- nials. Division. Peat and loam. COCCINELL/Z. Lady Birds. There are about thirty species of this useful and beautiful insect. Let no one de- stroy a coccinella, for it is the greatest destroyer of the plant louse or aphis. This is much better appreciated on the continent than in England, for there the gardeners collect lady birds and place them upon rose trees, &c., in- fected with aphides. COCCOLOBA. Nineteen species. Stove evergreen trees. Leafy ripened cuttings. Loam and peat. COCCUS. Scale Insect. The species of this family are most usually, but not exclusively, found upon the tenants of our green-houses and hot-houses. The males are active, but the females usu- ally fixed to a part of the plant; the former having wings, and are so small as to require a magnifier to distinguish them distinctly: they then appear some- what like a gnat in form. The females are much larger, and in shape not un- like a bed-bug, but with a scaly skin. When hatching they envelop them- selves in a woolly case. The eggs are oval, but no larger than dots. Brushing the stems and branches of trees and shrubs with a hand scrubbing-brush, will destroy many of these vermin, and if spirit of turpentine, with a painter’s brush, is applied, so as to visit evefy cranny of the bark, the application is perfectly effectual. Smaller and more delicate plants in pots, may be placed under a sea-kale or other pot, with a little of the spirit in a saucer, and then submitted to a gentle heat; the vapour of the turpentine will destroy the insect in an hour or two. Ifthe first applica- tion fails, the second will not fail. The efficacy of a solution of soft soap in thinning the ranks of this pest, arises probably from the turpentine it con- tains. “¢ C. hespertidum is found in green- houses, especially on orange trees. It infests leaves as well as stems. - ‘°C. bromeli@. Pine Apple Scale ’in- especially Coffee, Cestrum, Justicia, Canna, Musa, Renealmia, &c.; but it also is very injurious to ies vine and pine-apple. ‘¢ C. testubo. Turtle Scale. This is found chiefly on stove plants requiring a high temperature. The scale is oval, very convex, and dark brown.’’—Gard. Chron. VORP aes Grape Vine, both in the open air, and under glass. It seems to be the same species which also attacks occasionally the Peach, Nectarine, and Plum. It is, says Mr. Curtis, ‘‘ a longish brown in- sect, which in old age assumes a black- ish-brown colour, and becomes hemi- — spherical and wrinkled. The females are shield-like ; being convex above, and flat or concave below; they are furnished with six small legs, which, when the insect is old, become part of the substance of the body. On the un- der side of the insect is a sucker, with which it pierces the cuticle of the plants, and extracts their juices. Soon after impregnation the female dies, and her body becomes a protection for the eggs, which are covered withlong white wool, and sometimes completely enve- lop the shoots of the vines, or of plants, growing underneath them. The males are furnished with four wings, and are apterous. are immense; and, where they once become very numerous, they are ex- ceedingly difficult to eradicate.”’ As a genus of insects closely allied to the Coccus, and usually confounded with it, is Aspidiotus ; and as all reme- dial observations applicable to the one are equally applicable to the other, the prevailing kinds are here enumerated. “CA. nerti. Oleander Scale is found in our stoves and green-houses, chiefly on the Oleanders; Palme, Aloes and Acacias. “—Gard. Chron. Propagation by Cuttings. Mr. Gor- don gives these directions :— ‘‘In August or September, select a young shoot of moderate strength, and cut it off with a piece of the last year’s wood attached, forming what is techni- cally termed a heel. ‘¢ The leaves at the bottom of the cutting should not be pulled off, but must either be left on entire, or short- ened with a sharp knife. When the cutting is.made, it should be planted | from a half to three-quarters of an inch deep in a. pot, filled about one-third with potsherds, on which a layer of | turfy peat should be placed, then an inch of good loam, and, on the top of all, a layer of white sand. The pot of | cuttings may now be placed in a cold frame, kept close, and shaded when necessary; they may remain in this situation till the end of October, when they should be put in a cold pit for the Winter. Care must be taken at that season, that they do not suffer from — frost or damp; but they must on no account have fire heat. About the end of February the pot of cuttings may be removed to a hot bed, a bellglass being placed closely over it; the cuttings will root readily, and many of them will be fit to ppt off by the end of Jane. When first potted off, the young plants should be treated exactly i in the same mae as the cuttings-are. ‘‘In the case of Junipers and Cy- presses, older wood than that used for Pines is necessary, as they have not ee ema CON 163 CON = sufficient strength to omit roots before the winter, and consequently perish during that season, when only callous. If wood of two or three years’? growth be taken, it will be found hardy enough to stand the winter, and with the aid of artificial heat, in the spring will root freely.°?—Gard. Chron. By Seed.—The same excellent au- thority gives these directions relative to propagating the conifere from seed. ‘«* The cones should be gathered at the beginning of winter: they should be placed in some cool but dry place, until the end of March, at which time the seeds should be taken out of the cones; which in some cases is difficult, | without injuring them, particularly if they are kiln-dried, as the seeds are easily damaged by fire heat. The cones of some kinds are so hard—of Cocarpa, for example—that it would take weeks on the kiln before they would open. The safest way is to bore . a hole through the centre, beginning at the base, or stalk, and afterwards to drive a round piece of hard wood, through the hole, which will split the’ cones. The seeds may then be re- moved without injury. Ifthe kinds are new or rare, they should be sown in pans filled with dry sandy loam, and without any mixture, of either peat, . leaf mould, or rotten dung; all of which are injurious, and cause the young plants to damp off when they first come up, more especially if it should be damp weather at the time they appear above ground. If the loam is a little stiff, a small portion of sand may be used; but this must be - avoided as much as possible, because the more sand there is in the soil the weaker the plants come up. If they are in a doubtful condition, sow the seeds in pans filled with very dry loam, and place them in some dry situation, out of the reach of damp, they will then not be injured; whereas if they were not placed in dry soil, they would be sure to perish, or if sown in damp soil, the like destruction would attend them. — ‘¢When spring advances, place the pans in a gentle, but by no means damp heat; taking care, however, to remove them to a much cooler place, before the young plants are fairly above ground, and afterwards harden them ‘off by degrees, giving them but little water at first; for much depends upon the use made of water, at this period, and the treatment given to them, when in this state, (that is, when the young plant has exhausted the nourishment supplied by the seed, and has to seek subsistence from its own roots;) after which there is little danger of their damping off, except they are over watered. When the plants are fairly up, and a little hardened, they may be potted off singly, into small pots, filled with a mixture of loam and sandy peat. If the loam is rather poor or stiff, a little leaf-mould may be added; for the bad effects of the two latter substances seem only to occur during the time the young plant received its support from the seed. ‘¢ When potted, they should be placed in a close pit or frame for a few days, until they recover the effects of the shift, and afterwards air must be freely admitted; but water given rather sparingly at first. They will require little trouble afterwards, but probably may want shifting into larger pots in the autumn, (particularly the strong growing kinds,) as it is injurious to their future growth for their. roots to get pot-bound when young. The more rare or tender kinds should not be planted out before the third season ; but the commoner ones may be planted out after the first year. ‘¢ The common kinds, such as the Scotch fir, larch, spruce, and silver firs, Pinaster, Stone, and Weymouth seeds, and even the Deodar, and Cedar of Lebanon may be sown in the open border with great advantage in the fol- lowing manner :—select a good fresh loamy soil which is not stiff, but rather sandy, and about the end of March dig and break the surface rather finely ; then mark the ground out into beds about four feet wide, leaving an alley of a foot wide between each bed; and on some fine dry day sow the seeds broadcast rather thickly, covering them over from a quarter to half an inch deep, according to the size of the seeds; then smooth the surface by gently beating it with the back of the spade ;—(this must only be done if the soil is dry, and rather light.) They will then require no other care except keeping them from weeds, and the at- tacks of birds, mice, and slugs, which are very destructive to them, when CON 164 CON — they first make their appearance above ground. ** By placing some small branches thickly over the beds until the young plants have thrown off the old seed- coat, they may be protected from the ravages of birds; if attacked by mice, traps must be set for catching them, as the only safe mode of preventing such pests; and if subject to be eaten by slugs, some wood-ashes should be sown over the plants are making their appearance. ‘“*The seeds of the greater part of/| i the pine tribe come up in about six weeks after sowing in the open border, and the most of them will be fit for transplanting into nursery-rows first year after sowing; afterwards they may be treated in the same way as other forest trees.°>—Gard. Chron. Grafting, §¢c.—* The pine or fir tribe are sometimes increased by graft- ing or inarching. It is at present little practised, and when it is so, only as a means of propagating some of the curi- ous varieties of the proper section Pinus, which are the most difficult and uncer- tain to strike from cuttings. Procure some good healthy young plants of the common kinds, of the same section to which the sort to be increased belongs in pots; if it is to the robust two-leaved section, such as the Pinaster or Stone Pine, procure them for the stocks: the Weymouth or Scotch, procure them, but they will take on the common Scotch Fir. If the species or variety belongs to the Spruce or silver tribe, procure such for stocks; if it belongs to the ce- dar or larch section, the common larch will do, bearing in mind that the species intended to be united should be as nearly related as possible; for although the true Pinus may be worked on a larch stock, they will soon perish. The operation is performed on the current year’s growth by cleft grafting, (and always in the leading shoot, shortening several of the side shoots at the mine) or by splitting the stock down the cen tre after the head is removed buticicatly | deep for receiving the scion, which must be cut wedge-shaped, to fit. << The time of performing the opera- tion is when the young shoots are about half-grown, and are brittle with the stock; the operation is cone in the usual way afterwards, by tying, and ex- cluding the air. Eth just as the young the | if to | ‘* Inarching is another way for in- creasing the pine tribe, but, like graft- ing, only suitable for the propagation of curious varieties, and is certainly a more unsightly way than that of cleft- grafting, as the stock and scion hardly ever unite to cover the old heel, when separated from the mother plant. ‘* This operation may be performed either with the-last year’s or the pre- ceding year’s wood, but the former is by far the quickest in taking ; it is best performed about the same time as graft- ing, but the inarches must sae be re- moved for two years. ‘<< Layering is certainly one of the. best modes, where it can be done. Layering should be performed early in the spring, before the plant begins to grow, and in the usual common way, by» slightly tonguing and laying the shoots in light sandy sei pegging them securely down. ‘¢ They will require two years to root, but it should be observed, that in layering, the whole plant must be layered, as it is very uncertain if only the bottom branches are so done, as these frequently die after the operation if the upper ones are left on: therefore the whole plant should be bent down; or the head cut off. ‘* Pines and firs should be planted in the open ground, about the end of April, if they are rare or tender kinds: but if hardy and common ones, the end of February is best. *¢ The Soil most suitable for thea is a light sandy loam, on a dry subsoil; but they will all grow in almost any soil that is not overcharged with water, or too poor, if encouraged at first by mixing a little sandy ]oam and leaf mould with the common earth, when planting /them where they are permanently to remain. ‘‘In planting, the roots should be |spread out as much as possible, and kept near the surface, leaving the plant a Jittle elevated on a small mound, if the adjoining ground is level, but if on a declivity, it is of no consequence. <¢ When planted, they should be well watered, not immediately at the roots, but for a yard or two all round, and then a few spruce fir or other branches should be stuck round, to break off the |sun’s rays, and the winds; if they are tender they should have a large hand- glass over them for the first winter, —— CON 165 CON —— which may remain permanently on dur- ing the months of December and Jan- uary. _ « Tn preparing the compost for them, alittle sand should be used, if the soil of the place is tolerably good, but ra- ther stiff; but if poor and light, a little loam and leaf mould must be added ; it is by far the best way to accustom the plants to the common soil at once, while they are young, for if the ground is made good for their reception only, they will grow vigorously and rapid, and as soon as they exhaust the pre- pared soil, they become stunted, and frequently die prematurely. *¢ In protecting the tender kinds, a single mat covering at a sufficient dis- tance will keep most of them from in- jury ; but much damage is done to the plants by not being able to remove the covering early in the spring. “¢ The covering should be constructed so that the top can be removed during the day time, and replaced at night, which hardens the plants, and at the same time protects them from the effects of the late spring frosts, which destroy the young shoots, especially of Web- biana, and other silver firs. “‘ In pruning there is little to be done except to cut away all dead branches, and to protect the leader.’? — Gard. Chron. CONNARUS. _ evergreen shrubs. Peat and loam. CONOCARPUS. Four species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripened cuttings. Loam and peat. CONOSPERMUM. Nine species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy peat. - . CONOSTYLIS. Three species. Green-house herbaceous ’ perennials. Division. Sandy peat. CONSERVATIVE WALLS. Walls. CONSERVATORY. This structure isa green-house communicating with the residence, having borders and beds in which to grow its tenant plants; or it may be an appendage to the dwelling, of moderate size, into which the plants from the green-house are removed whilst in bloom, thus concentrating the more attractive specimens, and presenting a continuous show of flowers. Good plants for turning out into the beds of a conservatory are :—Templeto- Three species. Stove Ripened cuttings. See nia Glauca ; Luculia gratissima; Eu- tazia myrtifolia ; Pimelea spectabilis ; Chorozema varium ; Brugmansia san- guinea ; Crowea saligna ; Cytisus race- mosus ; Horea Celsi ; together with Ca- mellias, and the different kinds of Acacia. Mr. Beaton observes, that—** In some instances the more hardy stove climbers are now planted out into the conserva- tory after they have been grown in vineries, or other forcing-houses, or in stoves, till they are long. enough to reach the top of the house at once, which is kept sufficiently close to afford them the necessary temperature. Many of this class must necessarily be left naked at bottom, where the air of the house is too cold for their young shoots, and thus a space is left for choice woody plants that are not climbers, among which the subject of these remarks may take a leading place. «¢ At present, when climbers. get naked at the bottom, the practice is either to cover the parts with long shoots from the top of the house, or to plant slender-growing climbers round them; but a better way would be to se- lect fine piants, not exceeding ten or twelve feet in a rich border, or that might be easily kept to be the required height, by pruning, such plants being remarkable for some peculiar feature, such as a graceful mode of growth, fine foliage, conspicuous or sweet-scented flowers, &c. A situation of this kind would suit Luculia gratissima, particu- larly if it happened to be near the doors or source of ventilation. ‘¢'This beautiful shrub, so lovely in the autumn, although a strong growing plant, isa delicate feeder; and a strong climber planted behind it may be said to assist its growth rather than impede it, by appropriating to itself the more gross parts of the soi] in the border. If the climber, however, is of the very fibrous-rooted kind, like the ash, few plants can compete with it for nourish- ment; whereas such climbers as Ipo- moeea, Horsfallie, Combretum purpu- reum, Beaumontia grandiflora, and most of the Passion flowers, Hardenbergias, Zichyas, &c., form their roots different- ly, and are suitable for this kind of furnishing when they become naked be- low. Plants for such a purpose ought to be well established and of consider- able size, before they are finally planted CON 166 COR — —— out; and all plants, whether climbers or otherwise, that have been first reared’ in the stove, or in heat, ought to be thus treated, otherwise it is found in practice that many of them make little progress for the first season or two. ‘‘Another cause which operates against the free progress of some climbers is, that for the sake of conve- nience they are increased from cuttings of the flowering shoots, which are more or Jess stunted, and the young plants for a time retain that character, until forced by a good feeding or strong heat to assume their native freedom; and even after that is effected, if they are afterwards much confined in small pots, they become again stunted ; best remedy is to cut them down to the surface of the ground, and force them in a hot-bed to make a fresh growth. Beaumontia grandiflora, and some of the stove Bignonias, are the first to suf- fer from either cause; yet when they are young and vigorous, they grow from ten to twenty feet in length in one sea- son, and some Bignonias even much more. The former should be about two or three years old, and from fifteen to twenty feet in length before it is planted in the conservatory, where it flowers freely for two or three months, in ter- minal heads, of large white trumpet- shaped flowers.’?’—Gard. Chron. CONTORTION. See Deformity. CONVALLARIA.. The Lily of the Valley. One species, and two varieties. Hardy herbacecus perennials. Division. Common soil. CONVOLVULUS. Fifty-one species. Chiefly twiners.. The stove and green- house plants thrive best in loam and | peat, and increase by cuttings; the hardy kinds, and green-house annuals and biennials. by seeds. Common soil. COOKIA punctata. Stove evergreen tree. Ripened cuttings. Loam and eat. COOPERIA. Twospecies. Green- house bulbous perennials. Seeds. Sandy compost. COPTIS trifoliata. Hardy herba- -ceous perennial. Division or seeds. Peat soil. CORAL TREE. Erythrina coralio- dendron. CORAXIC POISON BULB. Bruns- vigia coronica. CORBULARIA serotina. Hardy bul- bous perennial. Offsets. Sandy loam. then the} CORCHORUS. See Sherria. CORDIA. Thirty species. Stove evergreen trees or shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat. CORDYLINE. _Twospecies. Stove evergreen shrubs. Suckers. Peat and loam, or any light vegetable soil. COREMA alba. Hardy evergreen shrub. Layers. Sandy peat. COREOPSIS. Twenty-three species. Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials. Cuttings and division. Rich light soil. The annuals and biennials by seeds. | Common soil. COREOPSIS. See Chrysostemona. CORETHROSTYLIS bractea. Green- house shrub. Cuttings.. Sandy one and peat. CORIANDRUM sativum.- laciomaee Hardy annual. Seeds. Common soil. CORIARIA. Two species. Hardy and green-house evergreen shrubs. The hardy species is increased by cuttings of the roots or suckers. -Common soil. The green-house species by cuttings. Sand, loam, and peat. CORIS monspeliensis. Grachunis biennial. Seeds. Peat and loam. CORK TREE. Quercus suber. CORNELIAN CHERRY. Cornus mascula. CORN FLAG. Gladiolus bullatus. CORN SALAD. See Lamb’s Lettuce. CORNUS. Thirteen species, and some varieties. Chiefly hardy decidu- ous shrubs and trees. Seeds or layers. Common soil. The herbaceous species thrive best in peat, and increase by di- vision of the root. C. florida is a common tree in the | United States. It is a pleasing object when in bloom; its creamy white brac- tea enlivening the woodland when but few plants have yet pee their flowers. CORNUTIA pyramidata. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat. CORONILLA. Sixteen species, and one variety. Chiefly half-hardy ever- green shrubs. The green-house species are increased by cuttings or seeds. Peat and leam. The herbaceous re- quire protection in severe weather. Seeds or division.. The hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. Some are hardy deciduous creepers. ( CORRZA. Nine species. house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. are and loam. Gracia COR CORRIGIOLA. Three species. Har- dy trailers. Seeds. Common soil. CORTUSA Mathiole. Hardy herba- ‘ceous perennial. Requires protection in severe weather. Division or seeds. Peat and loam. CORYANTHES. Stove epiphytes. Three Division. species. Wood. CORYCIUM. Two species. Half hardy orchids. Division. Loam and eat. _CORYDALIS. Twenty-four species. Hardy annuals, biennials, or tuberous- rooted perennials. The latter increase by division. Peat and loam. The an- - nuals by seeds. Common soil. CORYLUS. Nut Tree. Seven spe- cies, and many varieties. Hardy de- ciduous shrubs. Suckers or layers. Common soil. See Filbert. CORYNOCARPUS levigatus. Green- house evergreen tree. Layers. Rich mould. CORYPHA. .EHight species. Palms. A strong moist heat, and sandy loam. COSCENIUM fenestratum. _ Stove evergreen climber. ~ Division. Loam and peat. COSMEA. Seven species. Green- house or hardy annuals. Seeds. Com- mon soil. COSMELIA rubra. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat. COSMUS. Three species. Hardy and green-house tuberous-rooted pe- rennials. Division. Commonsoil. C. tenuifolius is a hardy annual, increased from seeds. COSSIGNIA borbonica. green shrub. Cuttings. loam. COSTMARY. See Balsamita. COSTUS. Twelve species. Stove herbaceous perennials. Division or seed. Peat and loam. COTONEASTER. Ten species, and some varieties. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers. Common soil. COTYLEDON. Thirty-six species. Green-house evergreen shrubs: a few herbaceous perennials. Cuttings dried in the sun. Sandy loam. COULTERIA. Two species. evergreen shrubs. Seeds. loam. COURGOURDE. garis. COUTAREA speciosa. green shrub. Cuttings. Stove ever- Peat and Stove Lagenaria vul- Stove ever- Sandy peat. 167 Peat and CRA COW ANIA plicata. Hardy evergreen shrub. Division. Sandy peat. COWBERRY. Vaccinium Vitis Idee. COW DIE PINE. Dammara australis. COWSLIP. (Primula veris.) There are several varieties, varying in colour from almost white to a very deep yel-~ low; some are single, but others are double, in the form that florists distin- guish as hose-in-hose, the calyx in these being converted into corolla. Some specimens will produce one hundred pips upon a single truss, and they have been known to yield even more than one hundred and fifty. The cultivation is the same as that of the Polyanthus. CRAMBE. Three species. tuberous-rooted perennial. Division or seed. Rich soil. See Sea-kale.: CRANBERRY. Ozycoccus palustris. CRANE’S BILL. Geranium. CRASSULA. Fifty-nine species and a few varieties. Hardy evergreen an- nual or biennial shrubs. Cuttings laid for a few days inthe sun. Sandy loam and brick rubbish. Hardy CRATMGUS. Hawthorn. Fifty species and many varieties. Chiefly hardy deciduous low trees. Seeds, buds, or grafts. Dr. Lindley gives the following list of the most showy kinds. C. Aronia.—Most showy species of all in the autumn; very large bright yellow fruit in great abundance. C. Tenacetifolia.—Upright growing, finely cut leaves, the largest fruit of all, yellow. C. Odoratissima. mat spreading tree ; downy leaves, numerous large bright red fruit in the autumn. ‘C. Orientalis——Large dark red fruit. C. Coccinia.—Very showy; large and numerous bunches of bright red fruit in the autumn. C. Glandulosa.—Dense bush, and is ornamental in the autumn, ‘covered with abundance of rather large red fruit. C. Punctata.—Three varieties, one with red fruit, another with yellow, and a third with an upright or fastigiate habit of growth. C. Oliveriana.—Small, deeply cut, woolly leaves, and small black fruit, numerous and ornamental in the au- tumn.* C. Douglasii.—Various shaped leaves and. black fruit, which ripen early im the autumn. CRA 168 CRO —>———_ C. Nigra.—Strong growing, with black fruit and deeply divided leaves, flowering rather early. C. Heterophylia.—Beautiful species, profusion of flowers in the spring, and numerous small red fruit in the autumn. C. Macracantha.— With immense spines and small shining yellowish-red | fruit, produced in large bunches early in the autumn. C. Pyrifolia.—Free flowering kind, with small, but very numerous yellow- ish-red fruit, which ripen very late in the autumn. C. Crus-Galli.—Bright shining green leaves, and numerous bunches of dark- red fruit, which ripen very late in the autumn. The most desirable is the variety called ‘sallicifolia, which has horizontal branches, forming a flat ta- ble-shaped head. C. Prunifolia.—A close bush, rather large shining leaves, and .numerous bunches of dark-red fruit, which ripen late in the autumn. C. Flava.— Small greenish-yellow fruit late in the autumn. C. Virginiana.—A dwarf kind, with numerous green fruit, it retains its fruit nearly all the winter. C. Cordata.—The latest in flower, and bears the smallest fruit; it has bright shining angular leaves, and bright red Bree .Oxycantha Rosea Super ba.—The ae brilliant of all when in flower, it bears bright crimson blossoms in May. The double variety of it has also flowers, nearly as intense in colour, and quite double. CRATAVA. Four species. evergreen trees. Cuttings. soil. — CREEPERS or TRAILERS are plants which by having numerous stems and branches resting upon and spreading over the soil’s surface, are useful for concealing what would be unpleasing to the eye. CRESCENTIA. Three species. Stove evergreen trees. Ripened cut- tings. Loam and peat. CRESS. (Lepidium sativum.) “The GARDEN CREss, or PEPPER Grass is a hardy annual plant; its na- tive country is unknown. It is culti- vated in gardens for the young leaves which are used in salads, and have a peculiarly warm and grateful relish. ‘* The varieties are the plain leaved, Stove Rich strong curled leaved,.and broad leaved. ‘The method of cultivation is the same as is used for the parsley. To have a con- stant supply in perfection, very frequent sowings should be made; during hot, dry weather, it should be sown in the shade of trees, or protected by brush, &c., from the direct rays of the sun. — Rural Register. CRESS ROCKET. See Vella. CRINUM. Sixty-six species and some varieties. Stove or green-house bulbous perennials. Offsets. Rich loam, peat, and sand. hue C. capense, is thus recommended by the best cultivator of the amaryllide, to which the Crinum belongs. The Rev. W. Herbert says,—*‘ Crinum capense is good for covering small islands, as af- fording by its abundant arched foliage, the best possible covert for wild fowl, and producing an abundant succession of beautiful flowers throughout the sum- mer, and even the autumn. The plant is equally capable of flowering and ripening its seed when planted in a border, or two feet under the surface of the water, or in a rainy season. It could be best planted a little above the level of the water. The seed sprouts as soon as it is ripe, and the young. plants should be sheltered in pots the first and second winter, and then plant- ed out; taking care that the weeds do not smother them while young. The bulbs when full grown are hardy.??— Gard. Chron. ' CHRISTARIA coccinea. Hardy her- baceous perennial. Division or scene Peat soil. e CROCUS. Many species and vyarie- ties. Hardy bulbous perennials. Off- sets or seeds. Light sandy soil. Spring, Crocuses.—C. vernus: of this there are about five varieties, varying in colour, chiefly yellow, white, purple, and blue; C. annulatus, four varieties, — blue.and white; C. speciosus, three va- rieties ; C. pulchellus; C. Sibthorpianus; C. levigatus, two varieties; C. lagene- florus, many varieties; C. campestris; C. cancellatus; C. retaulatus, four va- rieties; C. gargaricus; C. Siberianus ; C. Fleischerianus; C. parvulus; C. pyre- ceus; C. asturinus; C. serotinus; C. salamaunianus; C. versicolor, five va- rieties ; C. émperatorianus ; C. suaveo- lens; C. insularis; C. odorus; C. longi- florus 3 C. medius ; Thomasianus, two varieties ; C. sativus. Gs Pallasianus an be CRO 169 CRO —-— &—__ Of the Autumn Crocus, the Rev. Dr. Herbert particularizes the following : €. Damascenus, pale purple; C. By- zantinus, white; C. Tournefortianus, French white; C. Cambessedesianus, white, streaked with purple ; C. medius, purple; C. Cartwrightianus, purple; C. var. Creticus, purple and pink; C. Chusianus, light purple.—Bot. Reg. Characteristics of Excellence.— <¢ First.—It should be composed of six.petals, three inner and three outer ; but fitting so close as to form a cup the shape of halfa hollow ball. ‘¢Second.— The petals should be broad enough and blunt enough at the ends to form an even edge all round the cup, and.lap over each other so much as to have no indentations where they join. ‘¢ Third.—The petals should be thick and smooth on the edge, without notch or serratine. ‘¢Fourth.— The colour should be dense and all over the same, if the variety be a self; and the marking should be very distinct, if variegated. ‘¢ Fifth.—It should be hardy enough to stand the frost, for those which are spoildd by the frosts, which come after they flower, are almost worthless, be- cause they all bloom early, before \the frosts are gone, and therefore their only beauty would be destroyed unless they stood the cold well. <‘ Lastly. — They ought to bloom abundantly, the flowers succeeding each other to lengthen the season of their bloom.”?—Hort. Mag. Cultivation.—‘The seeds of crocuses are best sown thinly, immediately after being gathered in light dry earth in large pots or pans, with a sufficiency of holes and potsherds at the bottom for the pur- pose of draining all, and cover not more than half an inch with the mould. The most eligible aspect or situation until the autumnal rains set in, is a moderate- ly shady, yet unsheltered one, permit- ting them to receive all the influence of the weather, except such heavy showers as would wash bare the seeds. Assoon, however, as the autumnal rains com-. mence, remove to a warm aspect; and protect them from all excessive rains, frosts, and snows, by the occasional shelter of a garden-frame, allowing them, nevertheless, the benefit of the full air at other times; but more espe- cially after the seminal leaf, for they have but one, (being monocotyledonous plants,) appears above the surface of the earth. ‘*This occurs sometimes about the end of the year; but oftener in earliest spring. After this it is essential that they should -have complete exposure to the air, even in frosty weather, screen- ing them, however, occasionally with loose straw from other injurious effects of frost. In this manner may the young crocuses be treated until the sun ac- quires sufficient power to dry the earth, or as to require daily waterings. It will be then found advantageous to remove them to’a cooler, but not sheltered situation, and here they may remain until their leaves lie down; giving them at all times, and in every situation, while their leaves are growing, such discretional rose waterings, when the sun is not shining, as they may reason- ably appear to require; but never until the earth they grow in becomes dry; not any whatever after their leaves begin to look yellow. After this period it is necessary to defend them from all humidity, except dews and gentle rains, until the end of August or beginning of September. . ‘¢If the surface of the earth is oc- casionally stirred with the point of a knife it will never fail to be attended with beneficial effects, and invigorate the bulbs; if notwithstanding the pre- caution of thinly sowing the seeds, the plants should have grown so thickly to- gether as to have incommoded each other, it will be desirable to have such taken up and replanted immediately further asunder in fresh earth, and about three quarters of an inch deep. But if they are not too crowded, they will re- quire no shifting ; sift a little earth over them, previously stirring and cleaning the surface of the old from moss and weeds, and observing not to bury the young bulbs, not yet so large as lentils, deeper than three quarters of an inch, or-an inch at the most. The second season requires exactly the same man- agement as the frst. But as soon as their second year’s foilage has passed away, the roots should all be taken up and replanted again, the same or fol- lowing day, into fresh earth of the same kind awbefore; sifting over them in au- tumn half an inch of fresh earth. The spring following, if they have been duly attended to, most of them will ‘show CRO 170 CUC ———— flowers; a few, perhaps, having done so in the midst of their fourth Ee of leaves.?°—Hort. Soc. Trans. They are very hardy, and require no care till the leaves begin to fade, when they should be taken up and kept in a state of rest for two or three months: some do not take them up oftener than once in three years, which answers very well for the border sorts. Even these, however, should not be left longer; because, as the young bulbs are formed on the top of the others, they come nearer to the surface every year, till at last, if neglected, they are thrown out and lost.—Enc. Gard. Soil, §c.—They like a warm, dry, light soil, in which they will thrive for many years without requiring removal. Both are, however, better for being taken up occasionally, because in that Meet their roots are exposed to fresh soil, and are not obliged to search through exhausted earth for their necessary food. They are fond of cow-dung as a manure; it may be applied just after Christmas. —Gard. Chron. CROWEA. Two species. house evergreen. shrubs. Loam and peat. CROWN IMPERIAL. lary. CRUCIANELLA. Fourteen species. Hardy annuals and herbaceous peren- nials. C. americana and C. maritima are green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Loam and peat. CRYPTANDRA. Two species. Green-house shrubs. Cuttings. Rich light loam. ; CRYPTOCHILUS sanguinea. Stove orchid. Offsets. Peat and potsherds. -CRYPTOLEPIS elegans. Stove ever- green climber. Cuttings. Peat and loam. - CRYPTOMERIA japonica. Japan Cedar. ‘ Hardy evergreen tree, which will probably prove one of the most ornamental of the Conifere. Sow the seed in sandy loam in a cool place; pot singly; the first year it will attain a height of from twelve to eighteen inches. It grows rapidly, and is as easily managed as the Chinese Arbor Vite (Thuja Orientalis), succeeding in almost any soil or situation, not very poor or wet.?>—(Hort. Soc. Journ.)—It will be propagated, probably, by cuttings. — CRYPTOSTEGIA. Two: species. Green- Cuttings. See F7ritil- for pickling; all the varieties are very Stove evergreen twiners. Loam and peat. CRYPTOSTEMMA. Three species. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. .CUCKOO-FLOWER. Lychnis Jios- cucult. -CUCKO0-FLOWER. Cardamine pra- tensis. CUCKOO-SPIT. See Tettigonia. CUCULLIA verbasci. Mullien Shark. The caterpillars of this moth are very destructive to Verbascums in June and July. Mr. Curtis describes them as being *‘about two and a half inches long, bluish white and thickly sprinkled | with black and bright yellow spots; when touched, they emit a considerable quantity of dark green fluid from their mouths. When they have attained their growth, they burrow into the ground at the roots of the plant on which they have been feeding, and in a few days form a cocoon made principally of half rotted leaves and fine mould, and bound firmly together with silk, so as to re- semble a stone, or a small lump of earth. They remain in this state till the follow- ing May, and sometimes for two years, when they emerge as pretty blackish brown moths. The wings, when ex- tended, measure between one and two inches across; the upper pair are brown- ish, clouded with black, and have on the inner edge a-pale white patch, re- sembling the figure 3, or the Greek letter ¢; the lower wings are pale brownish, and sometimes nearly white, and have a broad dark border: We have seen those caterpillars in such abundance in some gardens, as to com- pletely destroy all the défferent kinds of Mullein, and the nearly allied plants. _ Cuttings. The only way to lessen their ravages, is to collect and kill the oe ” —Gard. Chron. CUCUMBER. Cucumis sativus. This, like many other esculent vege- tables, has been divided into a number of varieties and subvarieties, the greater portion of which could be easily dis- pensed with; for all useful purposes, three or four varieties are amply suffi- cient. ‘* Those principally grown are the Early Frame and Long Green Prickly. The Early Frame is of mode- rate length, prickly, and is the variety. generally used as the early crop for salad. ‘‘The Long Green is mostly grown. cUC 171 CUC pe tender, not bearing the least frost. For an early supply start some plant in pots or boxes, early in the spring, and when the season is more advanced set them out on a well sheltered border, in hills, with some thoroughly rotted manure, incorporated with the soil. Seed for succeeding crops may then be planted. For pickles, plant the latter end of June and beginning of July. The Cu- cumber, like the Squash, &c., is liable to be preyed upon by yellow bugs, which are very destructive. To coun- teract them prepare a mixture of slaked lime and wood ashes, and sprinkle it freely on the leaves and stems whilst the dew is on, that it may adhere. As often as it may be washed or blown off, repeat the application, till the enemy be conquered. ‘¢ For the method of making sieves or boxes to protect cucumber jjines, melon vines, &c., against the yellow bug, see the New England Farmer, vol. 2, page 305.°°—Rural Register. To force Cucumbers.—Most persons who have the requisite conveniences force this vegetable. The following hints may be useful, even to those who have some experience. The hot-bed for seedlings must be moderate, and a single one or two light frames will be quite sufficient if dedi- cated to their cultivation. The mould need not be more than five or six inches deep. The seed is best sown four together in small pots, and plunged in ‘the earth of the bed ; but whether here or inthe mould, it must not be buried more than half an inch deep. Two or three days after sowing, or when the seminal leaves are half an inch in breadth, those in the mould of the bed must be pricked three together in small pots, quite down to their leaves in the earth, which should be brought to the temperature of the bed before this re- moval, by being set in it for a day or two previously; those seedlings that have been raised in pots, must likewise be thinned to three in each. They must remain. plunged in the hot-bed until their rough leaves have acquired a breadth of two or three inches, when they are fit for ridging out finally. During this first stage of growth, great care must be taken that air is ad- mitted every day as freely as contingent circumstances will admit, as also at night, if the degree of heat and steam threatens to be too powerful. It must never be neglected to cover the glasses at night, apportioning the covering to the temperature of the air and bed. The heat should not exceed 80° in the hottest day, or sink below 65° during the coldest night. If the heat declines, coatings of hot dung .are to be applied in succession to the back, front, and sides, if that source of heat be employed. As the mould appears dry, moderate waterings must be given, care being taken not to wet the leaves. The best time for ap- plying it is between ten and two of a mild day, the glasses being closed for an hour or two after performing it. The temperature of the water must be between 65° and 80°. The interior of the glass should be frequently wiped, to prevent the condensed steam dropping upon the plants, which is very injurious to them. If the bed attains a sudden violent heat, the necessary precautions to prevent the roots of the plants being injured or scalded, must be adopted ; but if hot water is the source of heat, this danger is avoided altogether. It is a material advantage if, previous to planting finally, the plants be turned into pots a few sizes larger, without at all disturbing the roots, and plunged into a hot-bed for a month longer, the same attention being paid them as before. © The second stage of cultivation is planting them out into hot-beds for final production. The hot-bed for their re- ception must be of the largest size, as being required to afford a higher and longer continued warmth through the coldest periods of the year. - When the earth is put on, it is at first to be spread only two or three inches deep, but under the centre of each light a hillock must be constructed, eight or ten inches deep and a foot in diameter. The earthing should be performed at least four or five days before planting, at which time the earth must be ex- amined ; if it be of a white colour and caked, or, as it is technically termed, burnt, it must be renewed, for the plants will not. thrive in it, and holes bored in the bed to give vent to the steam. ie The mould of the hillocks being well stirred, the plants must be turned out of the pots without disturbing the ball of earth, and one containing three plants cuc 172 CUC ——_—p?——_ inserted in each; a little water, previ- ously heated to the requisite tempera- ture, must be given, and the glasses kept perfectly close until the next morning. Any plants not in pots must be moved by the trowel with as much earth per- taining to their roots as possible. The shade of a mat is always requisite dur- ing the meridian of bright days unti the plants are well established. They must be pressed gradually away from each other, until at least eight inches apart ; nothing can be more erroneous than to allow them to proceed with the | stems nearly touching. When well taken root, earth must be added regularly over the bed, until it is level with the tops of the mounds; for if there be not a sufficient depth of soil, the leaves will always droop during hot days, unless they are shaded, or more water given them than is proper. An important operation for the ob- taining early fruit, but by no means so necessary for later crops, is the first | pruning, or as it is termed, stopping the plant, that is, nipping off the top of the first advancing runner, which is to be done as soon as the plant has attained four rough leaves; this prevents its at- taining a straggling growth, and compels it at once to emit laterals, which are the fruitful branches. - When they be- gin to run, the shoots must be trained and pegged down at regular distances, which not only prevents their rubbing against the glass, but also becoming entangied with each other. Never more than two or three main branches should be left to each plant, all others to be removed asthey appear. If more are left it causes the whole to be weak, and entirely prevents the due exposure of the foliage to the sun. The greatest care is necessary in regulating the tem- perature ; it must never be allowed to decline below 70° or rise above 95°. As it decreases, coatings of hot dung must be applied to the sides, and the | covering increased. The temperature of the bed, as well as of the exterior air, governs also the degree of freedom _ with which the air may be admitted ; whenever allowable, the glasses should be raised. The best time for doing so, is from ten to three o’clock. It may not be misplaced to remark, that chilly foggy days are even less pro- pitious for admitting air than severe frosty ones; during such it is best to |keep the frames close, and to lessen the opening of the glasses, in propor- tion as the air is cold or the beds de- )clining, it never exceeding two inches under the most favourable circum- stances. Water is usually required two or three times a week; it must be warmed as before mentioned previously to its application. “Instead of watering the inside of the frame, it is a good plan to do so plentifully round the sides, which causes a steam to rise, and affords a moisture much more genial to the plants than watering the mould. The last stage of growth includes the blossoming and production of fruit. The training must be regularly attended to, and all superabundance of shoots and leaves especially kept away. If the plants which have been once stopped have extended their runners to three joints withoet showing fruit, they must be again stopped. The impregnation of the fruit now requires continued attention; as soon as a female blossom, which is known by having fruit beneath the flower-cup, opens, or on the second morning at farthest, a fresh full expanded male flower is to be plucked, with its foot- stalk pertaining to it, and the corolla or flower-cup being removed, the remain- ing central part or anther applied to the stigma of the female, which is similarly situated, and the fecundating dust dis- charged by gently twirling it between the finger and thumb. If possible a fresh male blossom should be employed for every impregnation, and the opera- tion performed in the early part of the day. An attention to this is only re- quisite to such plants.as are in frames; those grown in the open air are always sufficiently impregnated by bees and other insects. Ifimpregnation does not take place the fruit never swells to more than half its natural size, nor perfects any seed, but generally drops imma- turely.. When the male flowers appear in clusters they may be thinned mode- rately with benefit; but it is almost needless to deprecate the erroneous practice sometimes recommended of plucking them off entirely. As the fruit — advances, tiles, sand, or other material, must be placed beneath it to preserve it from specking, or a glass cylinders still better; if a bulb containing water is attached, the fruit grows faster and finer. The same precautions are necessary as or eee “te pe i * Tat ew Se Se ee ee Tee — PG . io ie es mney CUC 173 cuUc —— en regards the preservation of tempera- ture, admission of air, &c., as in the se- cond stage of the growth of the plants. Towards the conclusion of the first pro- duction, it is a good practice to renew the heat by adding eighteen inches of fermenting dung all round the bed, pre- vious coatings being entirely removed, and to earth over it to the same depth as in the interior of the bed. This pre- vents the roots, when they have ex- tended themselves to the sides of the bed, being dried by exposure to the air and sun. As the spring advances _ the glasses may be often taken off dur- |. ing mild days, or even to admit a light temperate rain. In June, or July, accord- ing to the geniality of the season, they may be removed finally, and even before, the frames may be raised on bricks, so as to allow the runners to spread at will. Fora middling-sized family, from four to eight lights are sufficient to afford a constant supply, and for a larger one, double those numbers... During mid- winter, twelve weeks elapse between the time of sowing the seed and the fit- ness of the fruit for gathering; but as the more temperate seasons of the year advance, this period decreases gradually to eight. Between the time of impreg- nation and their full growth, from fifteen to twenty days usually elapse. Under favourable circumstances and manage- ment, the same vines will continue in production three or four months. Mr. Mills, one of the most successful growers with dung heat, gives me these leading points of his culture :— Mr, Mills sows on the 29th of Sep- tember, and transplants into the fruit- ing-pit on the 29th of October. Range of temperature in pit, 65° to 85° and 95°; and of the bottom-heat from 85° to 95°. He uses neither saline nor liquid manure. The water employed is about 80°, but in this Mr. Mills is not particu- lar- Mr. Beaton, to avoid the.degene- rating almost unavoidably incident to the fancy varieties, if propagated by seed, employs cuttings or layers. His practice was also adopted by Mr. Mears, gardener to W. Hanbury, Esq., near Leominster, and is recommended by Mr. McPhail.’ We also saw a very fine cucumber, ripened in January of this year (1844), by Mr. Mills, from a cut- ting planted in October. As the end of September is the best time for pursuing this mode of propagation, we will just state the mode. Put five inches of earth into a twelve pot, in which plant three cuttings, taken from as many vigorous bearing branches; water plentifully ; place asheet of glass over the top of the pot, the sides of which will shade the. cuttings until they are rooted ; plunge in a hot-bed ; and in less than a fortnight the plants will be established. The vines thus raised are not so succu- lent as those raised from seed, and con- sequently they are less liable to damp, or to suffer in other ways during win- ter.—Trans. Lond. Hort. Soc. ) Hot Water Beds.—If hot water be the source of heat, the following sketch of the bed and frame employed by Mr. Mitchell, at Worsley, is about the best that can be employed. The objects kept in view when it was constructed, were:—* Ist. A circulation of air with- out loss of heat. 2d. A supply of mois- ture at command proportionable to the temperature. 3d. A desirable amount of bottom heat. 4th. A supply of ex- ternal air (when necessary) without producing a cold draught. Fig. 31. = RY ‘¢ The method by which the first of these is accomplished, will be under- stood by referring to the section, in which a is the flow-pipes, bd 0 the re- turn pipes in the chamber a. It is evident that, as the air in the chamber becomes heated, it will escape upwards by the opening c, and the cold air from the passage B will rush in to supply its place; but the ascending current of heated air coming in contact with the glass, is cooled, descends, and enter- ing the passage B, passes into the cham- _ ber A, where it is again heated; and thus a constant circulation is produced. In order to obtain the second object, I have to some extent combined the tank and pipe systems. CUC 174 CUC acetates ‘The flow-pipe a is put half its di- ameter into the channel c, which when filled with water, (or so far as is neces- sary,) gives off a vapour, exactly pro- portionable to the heat of the pipe and pit. ‘* The third requisition is produced by the surrounding atmosphere and heat- ing materials. ‘¢ The fourth is accomplished simply by lowering the upper sash; the cold air thus entering at the top only, falls directly into the passage B, and passes through the hot chamber before coming in contact with the plants. In order to test the circulation, I fixed a piece of paper near the front of the pit, and found the current to be so strong as to bend it backwards and give it a tremu- lous motion. When the heat in the chamber is 95°, in the open space over the bed it is 71°; in the bottom of the passage only 60°; and in the mould in the bed it is 809. “The amount of vapour is regulated with the greatest facility, even from the smallest quantity to the greatest den- sity.°°>—Gard. Chron. Mr. Latter, one of the most success- ful of cucumber growers, employs hot ’ water, and he gives me these leading points in his culture. He sows in the first week of September, and the vines from this sowing will be in bearing and very strong before February. The seedlings are first shifted into sixty sized pots, secondly into twenty-fours, and lastly into the largest size. If to be trained on a trellis, the runner must not be stopped until it has, trained to a stick, grown through the trellis. The temperature in the pit or frame is kept as nearly 65° as possible during the night, and from 75° to 85° during the day ; air being admitted night and day, little or much, according to the state of the weather. The bottom heat (Mr. Latter is the champion of the hot-water system) is kept as near ascan be to 70°, although he finds that 85° does not hurt the plants. He waters them with soft water until February, and then employs liquid manure, taking care that the temperature of the liquid is always from 75° to 80°. The earth over the hot water tank or pipes ought not to be less than fifteen inches deep. During severe frosts it is an excellent plan to keep a small floating light burning with- in the frame every night. Training.—There is no doubt that training near the glass of the frames upon a trellis, makes the cucumber vine more prolific, and more enduring. In- deed, if trained with proper care, the same vine may be made to bear through- out the year. ' Hand. Glass Crops.—The first sow- ings for these crops must be in the last two weeks of March; to be repeated in the middle of April and May. The seed may be inserted in a moderate hot-bed under hand-glasses, or in the upper side of one of the frames already in produc- tion, either in pots as directed for the frame crops, or in the mould of the bed, to be pncked into similar situation when of four or five days’ growth, in- serting only two plants, however, in each pot. They must remain in the hot-bed until of about a month’s growth, or until they have attained four rough leaves; being then stopped as before directed they are fit for ridging out finally. The ridges may be founded on the surface, or in trenches a foot and a half deep, in either case forming them of well prepared hot dung, three or four feet wide and two and a half high; the length being governed by the number of hand-glasses, between each of which three feet and a half must be allowed. The earth is to be laid on eight inches thick ; when this becomes warm the plants may be inserted two, or at most three, under each glass. Watering, airing, covering, &c., must be conducted with the precautions di- rected to be practised for the frame crops. The glasses should be kept on as long as possible without detriment to the plants; to prolong the time the run- ners must be made to grow perpendicu- larly ; and still further to protract their continuance, if the season is inclement, the glasses may be raised on bricks. When no longer capable of confine- ment, the runners must be pegged down regularly, advantage being taken of a cool cloudy day to perform it in; but the glasses, even now, may be con- — tinued over the centre of the plants until the close of May or early June, with considerable advantage. Weeds must be carefully removed. Waterings — should be performed as often as appears. — necessary. If there be a scarcity of dung in the last week in April, or during May, cir= CcUC 175 CUR > cular holes may be dug, two feet in| many varieties. Hardy or half-hardy diameter, one deep, and four apart.| trailing annuals. Seeds. Good rich These being filled with hot dung, trod | soil. in moderately firm, and earthed over about eight inches, are ready for either | pions. ‘seeds or plants. With the shelter of| Hardy trailing annuals. See Cucumber. CUCURBITA. Gourds and Pom- Ten species and varieties.— Seeds. Good the hand-glasses they will be scarcely | rich soil. later in production than the regular ridges. ¢ UCUMIS. Twenty species, and | Common soil. CULCITIUM salicinum. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.— Fig. 32. ‘sCULTIVATOR FOR THE HAND (Fig. 32) Is made of iron, and is capable of being expanded at will ; it is of great utility in clearing out between rows of vegetables, loosening the soil, and at once performing the work of four ordi-| nary hoes.”»—Rural Reg. CULTIVATORS, OR HOE-HAR- ROWS. ‘* These are now considered in- dispensable in cultivating corn, potatoes, and all other crops planted in hills or drills—doing the work as effectually as if hoed, and much more expe- ditiously. The form is varied by the different makers, especially in the teeth or hoes. They are made to ex- pand or contract, so as to accommo- date in the distance between the rows.”—Rural Reg. CULLUMBINE or COLUMBINE. Aquilegia, CUMIN. See Cuminum. CUMIN. See Lagoécia. CUMINUM. Cyminum. Hardy annual. Seeds. Common soil. CUMMINGIA. Four species. Half- hardy bulbous perennials. Offsetts. Loam and peat. CUNNINGHAMIA sinensis. house evergreen tree. seeds. Peat and loam. CUNONIA capensis. evergreen tree. Cuttings. and peat. CUPANIA. Seven species. evergreen trees or. shrubs. Peat and loam. CUPHEA. Green- Cuttings or Green-house Sandy loam Stove Cuttings. Fourteen species.— Green-house or stove annuals; and stove biennial, herbaceous perennial or evergreen shrubs. The stove spe- cies grow best in sandy loam, and in- crease from cuttings. The annuals— seeds. Common soil. CUPIA. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam, eat. and sand. CUPRESSUS. Seven species, and some varieties. Hardy or green-house evergreen trees. Seeds or cases Good rich loamy soil. CURATELLA. Two species.— - Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.— Sandy loam. , CURCULIGO. Six ‘species, and variety. Stove or green-house herba+ CUR 176 CUR —_——_ . y ceous perennials. Offsets. Loam and|whole neighbourhood. Our own ob- eat. CURCULIO. This genus of Beetle, popularly known as Weevils, are de- structive to fruit, as nuts, nectarines, and peaches, as well as to peas, &c. There are many species. C. betuleti. Vine Weevil. Colour, steel-blue. Attacks the leaf, rolling it up as a nest for itseggs. The pear is liable to. its attacks also.. Appears in June and July. The species of Curculio, which is! more fatal in its attack than any other, is popularly known as the Plum- Weevil. Wecopy the following article on the subject, from the Fruits and Fruit Trees of America :— — Gard. Chron. See a fuller description of this insect under its modern name of Ofyorhincus. C.alliarie. Stem-boring Weevil. Steel-green colour. Bores the shoots and grafts of young fruit trees. Ap- pears in June and July. C. pomorum. Apple Weevil. Colour, dark brown. Attacks the blossom of the apple, and often destroys the whole crop. More rarely it attacks the pear blossom. Appears in March and April. C. pyri. Pear Weevil. Dark brown, very like the apple weevil. April. C. oblongus. Oblong Weevil. Red- dish-brown colour. Feeds on the young leaves of the peach, apricot, plum, pear, and apple. Appearsin May. -» C. pleurostigma. See Ambury. C. lineatus.. Striped Pea Weevil. Ochreous colour, and striped. Appears in March and April. ' C.macularius. Spotted Weevil. Gray colour. April]. Also destroys the pea. Soot or lime sprinkled over peas early in the morning before the dew is off from them, and so thickly as to cover the soil about them, would probably save them. the weevils upon trees, the only mode is to spread a sheet beneath them, to shake each branch, and to destroy those beetles which fall. They usually feed at night. C. nucum. Nut Weevil, of which the maggot is so frequent in our filberts. Mr. Curtis thus describes it :—‘* The insect is brown, with darker bands; is about a quarter of an inch long, and has a long horny beak, about the middle of which are placed antenne. When the nut is ina young state the female weevil deposits a single egg. The maggot is hatched in about a fortnight, and con- tinues feeding in the interior of the nut till itis full grown. The nut falls when the maggot has no legs, nor, indeed, has it any use for them, being hatched in the midst of its food ; and when the nut remains on the tree, it forces itself out of the hole it eats in the nut, and falls almost immediately to the ground. The only remedy we are aware of is, in the course of the summer to fre- quently shake the trees, which will cause all the eaten nuts to fall to the ground, when they must be collected and burned.??—-Gard. Chron. C. picipes is a dull black, and is very injurious in the vinery. C. tenebricosus infests the apricot. Mr. Curtis says, that ‘* every crevice in» old garden-walls often swarms with these weevils; and nothing would prove a greater check to their increase than stopping all crevices or holes in walls with mortar, plaster of Paris, or Roman cement, and the interior of hot-houses should be annually washed with lime ; the old bark of the vines under which To mitigate the attack of . CUR 179 CUR —-~——— they lurk, should be stripped off early in the spring, and the roots examined in October, when they exhibit any un- healthy symptoms from the attacks of the maggots of C. sulcatus. bey? ** When the larve are ascertained to reside at the base of the wall, salt might be freely sprinkled, which will kill them as readily as it will the maggots in nuts; strong infusions of tobacco- water, aloes, and quassia, are also re- commended.??—Gard. Chron. CURCUMA. ‘Twenty-one species. Stove herbaceous perennials. From C. longa turmeric is obtained. Offsets. Rich light soil. CURL. A disease of the potato. *¢ Any one can ensure the occurrence of this disease by keeping the sets in a situation favourable to their vegetation, as in a warm damp outhouse, and then rubbing off repeatedly the long shoots they have thrown out. Sets that have been so treated I have invariably found produce curled plants. Is not the rea- son very apparent? The vital energy had been weakened by the repeated efforts to vegetate; so that when planted in the soil, their energy was unequal to the perfect development of the parts; for the curl is nothing more or less than a distorted or incomplete formation of the foliage, preceded by an imperfect production of the fibrous roots. «¢ The variety employed was the Early Shaw. An equal number of whole mo- derately-sized potatoes, that had been treated in three different modes, were planted the last week of March. *¢ No. 1. Twenty sets that had been carefully kept cold and dry throughout the winter, firm, unshrivelled, and with scarcely any symptoms of vegetation. — ** No. 2. Twenty sets that had been kept warm and moist, and from which the shoots, after attaining a length of six inches, had been thrice removed. ** No. 3. Twenty sets that had been kept warm and moist for about half the time that No. 2 had, and from which the shoots, three inches in length, had been removed only twice. “¢ All the sets were planted the same morning, each exactly six inches below the surface, and each with an unsprout- ed we upwards. The spring was ge- nial. ‘¢ Of No. 1, nineteen plants came up. The twentieth seemed to have been re- moved by anaccident. Of the nineteen not one was curled. The produce, a full average crop. ‘¢ Of No. 2 all came up, but from ten to fourteen days later than those of No. 1, and three of the plants sixteen days later. Fourteen of the plants were curled. “¢ Of No. 3 all came up, but from ten to fourteen days later than those of No. 1. Four plants were as severely curled as those in No. 2, eight were less so, and the remainder not at all; but of these the produce was below an ave- rage, anda full fortnight later in ripening. ‘Dickson, Crichton, Knight, and others, have found that tubers taken up before they are fully ripened, produce plants not so liable to the curl as those that have remained in the ground until completely perfected; and I believe under ordinary treatment this to be the fact, for it is rational.. The process of ripening proceeds in the potato, as in the apple, after it has been gathered ; and until that is perfected it is accumu- lating vigour, shows no appetency to vegetate, consequently is not exhaust- ing its vitality, which is a great point, considering the careless mode usually adopted to store them through the win- ter; for this energy commences its de- cline from the moment it begins to de- velope the parts of the future plant. Tubers taken from the soil before per- fectly ripe, never are so early in showing symptoms of vegetation. Crichton, Hun- ter, and Young, in some of the works before referred to, have also agreed, that exposing the sets to light and air, allowing them to become dry and shri- velled, also induces the curl in the plants arising from them. ‘This result of ex- perience also confirms my conclusion, that the disease arises from deficient vital energy ; for no process, more than this drying one of exposure to the light and air, tends to take away from a tuber the power of vegetating altogether. «¢ Every one acquainted with the cul- tivation of the potato, is aware of the great difference existing in the varieties; as to their early and rapid vegetation, those that excel in this quality are of course the most easily excitable. A consequence of this is, that they are always planted earliest in the spring, before their vital power has become very active; and of all crops, practice demonstrates that these early ones are least liable to the curl. But .what is CUR: 180 CUR —_4-—— the consequence, on the contrary, if an early variety is planted for a main crop later in the spring, when extraordinary pains in keeping them cold and dry have not been employed to check their vegetation, and consequent decrease of vital energy ? Such crop, then, is more than any other liable to the disease, and a good preventive has been sug- gested by Dr. Lindley, namely, that of planting the tubers in autumn, imme- diately after they have ripened. The results of my view of the disease, sus- tained by numerous experiments, are, that it will never occur if the following points are attended to:—First, that the sets are from tubers that exhibit scarcely any symptoms of incipient vegetation ; to effect which they ought, throughout the winter, to be preserved as cool and as much excluded from the air as pos- sible. Secondly, that the tubers should be perfectly ripened. Thirdly, that they should be planted immediately after they are cut. Fourthly, that the ma- nure applied should be spread regular- ly, and mixed with the soil, and not along a trench in immediate contact with the sets. Fifthly, that the crop is not raised for several successive years on the same area.’?—Principles of Gar- dening. CURRANT. (Ribes.) Black Currant. (R. nigrum.) - Black Grape. . Black Naples, largest and best. - Common Black. ,\ . Russian Green. Red Currant. - Common Red. - Red Dutch, large and good. . Knight’s Large Red, largest. . Knight’s Sweet Red, large, and not so acid as other red varieties. Knight’s Early Red. . Champagne. . Striped-fruited—berries marked with red and white stripes. . Striped-leaved. - Rock Currant. White Currant. - Common White. - White Dutch, largest and best. - Pearl White. - Speary’s White. _ Soil.—Any fertile garden soil suits them. Propagation.— By Cuttings.— The best shoots for propagating from are those that are fully ripened, and not too Hm 09 0D (R. rubrum.) OO ARAN Pwmore (R. album.) www e strong. They are first to be deprived of about two or three inches of the point, and cut into lengths of ten inches or a foot, according to the size and strength of the shoots. Then, with a sharp knife, divest each shoot of the whole of its buds, except- ing three or four nearest the top of the cutting, which must be left to form the branches of the future plant. Rubbing off the buds is not sufficient; they require to be picked out, or pared very close, to prevent them from throw- ing up suckers, which materially affect the growth of the plants, and rob the fruiting branches of most of their nou- rishment, when not displaced in proper time. The small buds towards the base of the cutting are always the most trou-_ blesome in this respect, and great care should be taken to remove them effect- ually before the cutting is inserted in the ground. Immediately underneath the part which the lowest bud occupied make a clean horizontal cut, without displacing any portion of the bark, and the cutting is then complete. A small spot is next to be dug and got ready for them, and if it can be obtained in a situation that is rather shaded than otherwise, so much the better. The cuttings are then to be inserted in rows a foot apart, six or eight inches asunder, and two or three inches deep, and the earth firmly pressed around them, either with the hand, or by plac- ing one foot on each side of the row, and treading it from one end to the other.— Gard. Chron. Observe, those designed for common standards should be trained up to a twelve or fifteen inch stem, then en- courage them to branch out all round: at that height to form a full head, for if suffered to branch away immediately from the bottom, they overspread the ground, that no creps can grow near them, as wel] as appear unsightly, and render it inconvenient to do the neces- sary work—thin the branches to mode- rate distances. By Suckers.—All the sorts are too apt to send up suckers from the roots ; each sucker forming a proper plant is the most expeditious mode of propa- gating. They may be taken up in autumn, winter, or spring, with roots, or even such as are without fibres will ? CUR 181 CUR cathe succeed ; planting them either in nur- sery-rows for a year or two, or such as are tall and strong may be planted at once, where they are-to remain, observ- ing to train the whole for the purposes intended, as directed for the cuttings, and they will form. bearing plants after one or two years’ growth. The propagating by suckers is by some objected to, alleging they incline to run greatly to suckers again: there is, however, but little foundation in this, for it is peculiar to these shrubs, let them be raised either by seeds, cuttings, or any other method. By Layers. — The young branches being laid in autumn, winter, or spring, will readily strike root, and next autumn _be fit to transplant. In the general propagation of these shrubs we would observe, that as they naturally throw out many suckers from the root, so as often to become trouble- some, it is proper, previous to planting the cuttings and suckers, &c., to rub off close all the buds or prominent eyes from the Jower part, as far as they are to be put into the ground, which will in some measure diminish their tendency in the production of suckers; likewise, when transplanting the young plants, if they discover any tendency to the pro- duction of suckers, let all such parts be also carefully rubbed off close.— Abercrombie. Grafiing.—An anonymous writer in the Gardener’s Chronicle observes, that ‘‘standard currants have a pretty ap- pearance, and this is increased if they are grafted with opposite colours, such as black and white, and red, orred and white. Allow the stock to reach four feet in height, then let it be stopped so as to make a bushy compact head. ‘‘ For standards or espaliers, train either horizontally or by the fan method, about six shoots or more, according to the space you wish to cover on either side, leaving one for the centre to be grafted. Train the same number of shoots of the worked variety. Each leading shoot, if kept and spurred in, will bear abundantly, and the fruit will also be of finer quality, and of asweeter flavour, by being fully exposed to the sun and air, which is better attained by this method than if the plants were grown in the usual way. - Training as Espaliers.—Mr. Snow, gardener at Swinton Gardens, for this purpose gives the following directions : ‘¢ Procure stakes four feet in length, and three or three and a half inches in circumference. To these, disposed after this manner, XXX XX, train the trees in the fan method, and tie the shoots to the stakes with matting. Independent of being secure from the wind, there are other advantages to be gained by this mode of training ; the space taken up is less, the pruning is more easily performed, and the whole surface is regularly exposed to the action of the sun and air. The wood is also equally and properly ripened, and better crops of well-flavoured fruit ensue. “¢ By this means the late kinds are likewise much more easily and more securely protected from the depredation of birds and wasps, and from injury by frost or wet. ‘¢A single mat thrown over the bushes is sufficient to preserve the fruit until Christmas, or later. And moreover, by this system the trees in matting up are not disfigured or crushed, the wet is more effectually kept off, as it does not fall on the mat and soak through to the fruit; but from no flat surface being presented the rain runs off the mat as it falls; the fruitis kept perfectly dry, and there is little or no injury done to the mat. The stakes never want renewing, as the bushes, when once in a regular shape, support themselves.?? — Gard. Chron. After-Culture.—‘* Never allow the branches to be too crowded, or to in- terfere with one another. The shoots which spring up in the centre are to be cut away very close, as well as the small shoots on the main branches, leaving only the external one, which must be shortened for about a third of its length. If this is done, the bush will have the form of a cup, with the branches ranged regularly round the stem. Red and white currants require the same treat- ment, as they produce their fruit on spurs. The black currant must be managed differently, as it bears chiefly on the shoots of the preceding year. Instead, therefore, of spurring and otherwise shortening the branches, all that is necessary is to thin them, and keep the bushes compact.?? — Gard. Chron. Forcing.—Red and white currants - may be in our desserts during nine months of the twelve. Pot some three- CUR 182 CUT rs year-old plants during the first week of January, and place half of them in the peach-house, and the other moiety on the upper shelf of the green-house. The first will come into bearing early | in April, and the remainder at the end | of May. The open ground crop is fit | for gathering before June closes, and some of these, if matted over at the end of July, may be kept good until Decem- | ber terminates. CURRANT SPHINX. See Sphinz. CURTOGYNE. Three species. | Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings, put for a few days in the sun. | Sandy loam. CUSSONIA. Three species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam. CUSTARD APPLE. Anona. CUTTING is a part of a plant capa- ble of emitting roots, and of becoming | an individual similar to its parent. The’ circumstances requisite to effect this are a suitable temperature and degree of moisture. Cuttings in general may be taken either from the stem, branch, or root; and are, in fact, grafts, which by being placed in the earth, a medium favour- | able to the production of roots these emit, instead of aiding the stock to effect that development of vessels neces- sary for their union to it, had they been grafted. A due degree of moisture in the soil is absolutely required from it by cuttings, for these will often produce roots if placed in water only. The time for taking off cuttings from the parent plant for propagation, is when the sap is in full activity; the vital energy in ail its parts is then most po- tent for the development of the new organs their altered circumstances re- quire. Well-matured buds are found to emit roots most successfully, and appa- rently for the same reason that they are least liable to failure, when employed for budding, viz., that being less easily excitable, they do not begin to develop until the cutting has the power to afford a due supply of sap. Therefore, in taking a cutting, it is advisable to re- move a portion of the wood having on it a bud, or joint, as it is popularly call- ed, of the previous year’s production. Many plants can be multiplied by cut- tings with the greatest difficulty, and after every care has been taken to se- cure to the cutting every circumstance favourable to the developement of roots. Those plants which vegetate rapidly, and delight in ejther a moist or rich soil, are those which are propagated most readily by this mode, and such plants are the willow, gooseberry and pelargonium ; a budded section of these can hardly be thrust into the ground without its rooting. Cuttings of those plants which grow | tardily, or in other words form new parts slowly, are those which are most liable to fail. These are strikingly instanced in the heaths, the orange, and cera- tonia. A rooted cutting is not a new plant, it is only an extension of the parent, gifted with precisely the same habits, and delighting most in exactly the same degree of heat, light and moisture, and in the same food. A cutting produces roots, either from a bud or eye, or from a callus resem- bling a protuberant lip, which forms from the alburnum between the wood and the bark round the face of the cut which divided the slip from the parent stem. If the atmospheric temperature is so high that moisture is emitted from the leaves faster than it is supplied, they droop or flag, and the growth of the plant is suspended. If a cutting be placed in water, it imbibes at first more rapidly than a rooted plant of the same size, though this power rapidly de- creases; but if planted in the earth, it at no time imbibes so fast as the rooted plant, provided the soil is similarly moist; and this evidently because it has not such an extensive imbibing surface as is pos- sessed by the rooted plant; consequent- ly, the soil in which a cutting is placed should be much more moist than is beneficial to a rooted plant of the same species, and evaporation from the leaves should be checked by covering the cut- tings with a bell-glass, or a Wardian © case would be still better. The tem- perature to which the leaves are ex- posed should be approaching the lowest the plant will endure. The warmer the soil within the range of temperature most suitable to the plant, the more active are the roots, and the more ener- getically are carried on all the processes of the vessels buried beneath the sur- face of the soil ; 50° for the atmosphere,,. and between 65° and 75° for the bottom heat, are the most effectual temperatures CUT 183 CUT —— for the generality of plants. The cutting should be as short as possible consist- ently with the object in view. Three or four leaves, or even two, if the cut- ting be very short, are abundant. They elaborate the sap quite as fast as re- quired, and are not liable to exhaust the cutting by super-exhalation of moisture. Cuttings taken from the upper branch- es of a plant, flower and bear fruit the earliest, but those taken from near the soil are said to root most freely. Cut- tings which reluctantly emit roots may be aided by ringing. The ring should be cut round the branch a few weeks before the cutting has to be removed ; the bark should be completely removed down to the wood, and the section di- viding the cutting from the parent be ‘made between the ring and the parent stem, as soon as a callus appears round the upper edge of the ring. The soil is an important considera- tion. The cuttings of orange trees and others which strike with difficulty if in- serted in the middle of the earth of a pot, do so readily if placed in contact with its side. The same effect is pro- duced by the end of the cutting touch- ing an under drainage of gravel or broken pots. Why is this? My obser- vations justify me in concluding that it. is because in these situations, the side and the open drainage of the pot, the atmospheric air gains a salutary access. A light porous soil, or even sand, which admits air the most readily, is the best for cuttings; and so is a shallow pan rather than a flower pot, and apparently for the same reason. I have no doubt that numerous perforations in the bot- tom of the cutting pan would be found advantageous for cuttings which root slowly. Some plants may be successfully propagated by means of the leaves, and among those whose numbers are thus most commonly increased, are the Cac- ti, Gesnere, Gloxiniz, and other fleshy leaved plants. Lately the suggestion has been revived,—a suggestion first made by Agricola at the commence- ment of the last century. He states that M. Manderola had raised a lemon- tree in this mode; and thence con- cludes, rather too rashly, that all exotic leaves may at any time be converted into trees. Since that was written, in 1721, it is certain that plants have been raised from leaves that previously had been considered totally incapable of such extension. Thus M. Neumann has succeeded with the Theophrasta latifolia ; and going a step further, he has even bisected a leaf, and raised a leaf ffom each half. Mr. Knight has also recorded in the Horticultural Transactions of 1822, that leaves of the peppermint (Mentha piperita), without any portion of the stem upon which they had grown, lived for more than twelve months, increased in size, nearly assumed the character of evergreen trees, and emitted a mass of roots. That leaves may be made almost universally to emit roots there appears little reason to doubt; for the same great physiologist had long before proved that the roots of trees are gene- rated from vessels passing from the leaves through the bark; and that they never in any instance spring from the alburnum. But the question arises, will they produce buds? and at pre- sent the answer derived from practice is in the negative; orange leaves, rose leaves, leaves of Statice arborea, have been made to root abundantly; but like blind cabbage plants, they obsti- nately refused to produce buds. Dr. Lindley thinks that a more abund- ant supply of richer food, and exposure to a greater intensity of light, would have removed this deficiency; and I see every reason for concurring with so excellent an authority; for buds seem to spring from the central vessels of plants, and these vessels are never ab- sent from a leaf. If an abundant sup- ply of food were given to a well-rooted leaf, and it were cut down close to the callus, from whence the roots are emit- ted, I think buds would be produced, for the very roots themselves have the same power. In general, the young wood strikes most readily. Those of the Semecarpus mahogani, Swietenia mahogani, Eu- phorbia litchi, and others, must have the wood quite soft, and must be in- serted in the soil under bell-glasses the moment they are cut. On the contrary, cuttings of milky, gummy or resinous plants, such as Araucaria, Euphorbia, and Vahea gummifera, require to be buried ‘in damp sand for twenty-four hours, with the wound exposed, and then to be planted, after having the exuded matter washed off with a sponge. Herbaceous plants having a partial de- CYA 184 CYC is velopment of wood, as the Pelargonium, Calceolaria, and Cineraria, will strike in any place shaded from the meridian sun. Cuttings of fleshy-leaved plants, as the Cacti, and many others, root better after being allowed to remain for forty-eight hours, after division from the parent plant, before they are plant- ed. Diosmas, fuchsias, heaths, camel- lias, &c., require for their cuttings the gentle heat of a nearly exhausted hot- bed, and a close atmosphere, with but little light admitted night and morning. The bell-glasses employed should be proportioned to the size of the cutting. A small cutting should not be placed under a large glass. Blue and violet- coloured glass is found most favourable for the purpose, and this is accounted for by the fact, that glass of this colour admits very few luminous or leaf- stimulating rays of light; but nearly all the chemical rays of the spectrum, which assist in the decomposition of bodies. M. Neumann has succeeded in striking cuttings of monocotyle- donous plants, such as Draycena, Frey- ceneitia, and Vanilla. The cuttings may be from branches of any age be- tween less than one and six years old. -They require to have the leaves cut away at the bottom of the cutting, the whole length of the portion to be buried. Ji is not necessary to use the extremi- ties of branches, pieces from their mid- dles answer as well. M. Neumann also ‘thinks that all dicotyledonous plants may be multiplied by cuttings of their roots, or even by detached leaves. Dais cotinifolia is increased from cut- tings of the roots, and so is Paulownia imperialis, Pieces two inches long, and half an inch in diameter, and cut in March, root well. Maclaura aurantiaca succeeds similarly even in the open air, the upper wound of the cutting being placed nearly level with the surface. He has also multiplied Araucaria Cun- ninghami, and all the Conifer, by root cuttings. Soil.—The soil most generally appli- cable, is that which is rich and light. Some cuttings, as those of the Tamarix elegans and T. germanica, require a little saltpetre in the soil. CYAMOPSIS _ psoraloides. annual. Seeds. Common soil. CYANELLA. Five species. Green- house bulbous perennials. Offsets. Sandy loam and peat. Hardy CYANOTIS. Three species. Green- house biennials. Seeds. Rich mould. C. barbata is a hardy herbaceous peren- nial. Inereased by division. CYATHEA. Two species. Stove evergreen ferns. Division or seeds. Peat and loam. CYATHODES. Three species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Peat and loam. CYCAS. Five species. Stove her- baceous perennials. Suckers. Rich loam. CYCLAMEN. Ten species, and many varieties. Hardy or green-house tuberous-rooted perennials. Seeds. Sandy loam and vegetable mould. Spe- cies most worthy of culture are— C. Coum. Round-leaved, spring- flowering sowbread. Reddish purple. January to March. C. Europeum. Round-leaved, sum- mer-flowering sowbread. | Reddish purple. Fragrant. July to September. C. vernum. Round-leaved winter- flowering sowbread. Like preceding. November to January. C. Persicum. Persian sowbread. Various colours. February to May. C. Neapolitanum. Neapolitan sow- bread. Rosy. August to September. C. hederefolium. Ivy-leaved sow- bread. White and pink. Fragrant. March to May. Mr. G. Gordon, of the Chiswick Gar- dens, gives the following excellent directions for their culture :— ‘¢ The Cyclamen is increased by cut- ting the largest roots in pieces, which is a bad practice, as they are very liable to rot during the first season after cut- ting, or while in a dormant state, un- less the parts are kept very dry, a thing very injurious to the early flower- ing kinds. “*By Seeds, which should be sown when ripe, whether it be autumn or spring, in pans or pots well drained, and filled with a mixture of equal parts of sandy loam and leaf-mould, to which should be added a small portion of well- rotted dung. Then place the pans or pots in a cold frame or pit, kept close, if sown in the spring; but if sown in the autumn, they should be placed on the back shelf of the green-house, and kept rather dry during the winter, and gradually watered more as the spring advances. ‘¢ The autumn-sown plants will be fit CYC 185 CYP ——o——— for transplanting about the end of May, or beginning of June following, if pro- perly treated ; whilst those sown in the spring should not be removed from the seed-pans before the following spring ; they will by that time have formed roots about the size of a hazel-nut. Prepare then some large pots or pans, well drain, and fill them with the same kind of soil as that in which these seeds were sown, and transplant the young roots from the seed pans into these, placing them about three or four inches apart according to the size of the roots. Return them to the cold pit or frame, and keep them close until they begin to grow; afterwards admit air freely by day, but keep the pit close at night, till the beginning of July, when the pots or pans should be plunged, and the plants fully exposed, both day and night; taking care, however, that the soil in the pots does not get sodden with too much rain, or become too dry. They will require no more trouble, except keeping free from weeds and slugs, till the middle of September, when they should be potted singly into small forty-eight sized or sixty pots, (according to the size of the roots,) filled with the same kind of soil as that previously used. <¢ In potting, the bulbs should never be entirely covered with the soil, but about one-third left exposed. When potted, they should be placed on the back shelf of the green-house, or in a cold pit, where they can be kept dry and free from frost, until they begin to grow. If they are the early flowering kinds, a few may be placed in the win- dow of the sitting-room, and but spar- ingly watered until they commence growing, when they should havea more liberal supply. ‘* The roots will begin to bloom the second season, and may be placed on the shelves of the green-house; or if they are of those hardy kinds which flower in summer or autumn, the pots may be plunged in the open border. When done flowering they should be returned to the cold pit or frame, where the lights must be kept on during the night, in cold or wet weather; but where they can have plenty of air at all times, observing as they cease growing, that water should be withheld, and finally, the roots gradually dried. The roots, when dry, should be allowed to remain in the pots, and not be shaken out, as is frequently done; for when taken out of the soil they are almost sure to get too much dried before they are again potted. This is particularly the case with the early flowering sorts. ‘¢ The proper time of the year for resting the flowering roots, entirely de- pends on the sorts. C. Persicum will be at rest when the C. Europeum and © C. Neapolitanum will be in full bloom, and vice versa. The roots should be shaken from the soil, and repotted directly the least sign of vegetation is observable. But the early spring- flowering kinds may be forced earlier into. bloom by potting a few of the strongest roots sooner, and placing them in a warm dry place. They must not be excited too rapidly, or watered freely; for if they are, the leaves are almost sure to damp off during the dull winter months, and particularly those of the beautiful C. Persicum and its varieties.?’—Gard. Chron. CYCLANTHUS plumieri. stove herbaceous perennial. Loam and peat. CYCLOBOTHRA. Five species. Hardy, half-hardy, or green-house bul- bous perennials. Bulbs. Peat, loam and sand. CYDONIA. Three species, and four varieties. Hardy deciduous fruit trees or shrubs. Suckers. Any soil suits them. C. vulgaris, the quince. CYLINDROSPORIUM concentricum. A parasitical fungus often attacking the cabbage, forming a blight or mildew. Repeated syringing with water in which three ounces per gallon of salt have been dissolved, will remove it. Curious Suckers. CYLISTA. Four species. Stove evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Loam and peat. CYMBIDIUM. Seventeen species. The terres- The epi- Stove orchids. Division. trial kinds, loam and peat. phytal, wood. CYMBOPOGON Schenanthus. —Ibid. “¢ The soil,?? says Mr. Glenny and other first-rate authorities, ‘‘ cannot be too fresh; and of all soils that which produces good grass, as the top spade- full of a meadow, isthe best. It should have a retentive yet well-drained sub- soil, and be kept well supplied with moisture, not only by watering, but frequent hoeing. ‘¢ When the ground is poor, and has to be made more fertile, there is no addition equal to the soil formed by rotten turfs cut tolerably thick, which may be estimated at one-half loam and half vegetable mould; but this should be laid on in abundance, and will be far better than dung of any kind. Among the results of planting the dahlia in soil that is too rich, the principal one is that of remarkably vigorous growth, with little bloom, and that little bad.2»—Jd7d. <¢ Holes in the situations where dah- lias are to be planted,” says Mr. Fin- tellmann, ‘*are made fifteen inches in diameter and fifteen inches in depth, and filled with this soil; and in these holes, so filled, the young plants are turned out, or the old roots inserted. To retain the moisture, and protect the root from excessive heat, the surface is covered with moss. ‘¢ Liquid manure is applied two or three times in the course of the sum- mer.”—Gard. Mag. After-culture.—This comprises chief- ly staking, hoeing, protection, and slight pruning. ‘¢Dahlias should never be pruned until the bloom buds show, and then but few branches should be cut out, and only such as are growing across others. The buds should be thinned, for it is by these that the strength of the plant gets exhausted. By removing all that are too near one to be bloomed, and al! those that show imperfections enough to prevent them being useful, much strength will be gained by the future flowers. So, also, by pulling off the blooms themselves, the moment they are past perfection, instead of let- ting them seed.?»—Glenny: Gard. and Pract. Flor. ‘¢ Winds and sun,’? adds an anony- mous but correct writer, ‘are both detrimental ; and the practice of fixing the blooms in the centre of a flat board, and covering them with glass or flower- pots as they may want light or shade, is becoming general. The more easy way is to use a paper-shade for any particular fine bloom; for however the flowers may be coaxed and nursed un- der cover, a stand of blooms grown finely and merely shaded from the hot- test sun, will beat all others in bril- liancy, and in standing carriage, and keeping. It is right to go round the plants, and, wherever there is a pro- mising bud or bloom, to take away all the leaves and shoots that threaten to touch it as they grow; take off also the adjoining buds ; and if the weather be windy make it fast to a stick or one of the stakes, that it may not be bruised or frayed; shade it from the broiling sun; and it will so profit by the air and night-dews, as compared with the bloom under pots and glasses, that if the growth be equal, the blooming will be superior. Nevertheless people will cover; and where there is a disposition to a hard eye, it will hardly come out perfect unless it is covered. As the end of September approaches, or as soon as you have done with the bloom, earth up the plants, that when the frost comes it may not reach the crown.”>— Gard. and Pract. Florist. Preserving the Roots.—‘‘ The plants may be raised without injury,” says Dr. Lindley, ‘“‘immediately after the blooms are cut off by the frost, provided that they are hung up ina dry and ordina- rily protected situation, with the roots uppermost, if care is taken to leave six or seven inches of the stem attached to each tuber; this may be done without the slightest fear of their withering from having been lifted in a green state. As the winter advances, and the tubers become matured and firm, the ordinary I DAH 192 DAM a modes of protection against frost may be resorted to.”>—Gard. Chron. Protector.—The best devised shelter from the sun for the Dahlia is drawn and thus described in the Gard. Chron. ‘¢ This protector is made of wicker- work, and consists of an inverted shal- low basket ; to which is attached a tube made of the same material, through which the dahlia stick is passed ; and a peg being inserted between the stick and the tube, it is firmly secured at any height required. It measures twelve inches in diameter, in the widest part, and is three and a halfin depth. From its being made of so light a material, and from its simplicity of construction, it is not easily displaced or put out of order, and the flower not being confined within anything, is less liable to be damaged by coming in contact with any substance that would injure the petals. It requires to be painted to preserve it from decay, and if the outside be made green, and the inside white, the appear- ance of them would not be disagree- able, and the insects lurking inside would be easily perceived.” Forcing.—‘* The Dahlia may be ad- vantageously forced by potting the roots in February, and letting them remain in frames till June ; when they will be- gin to flower, and may be turned out into the open border.?°—Gard. Mag. “To grow Dahlias in pots,’? says Dr. Lindley, ‘‘ you must select the dwarfer and more freely flowering kinds, the taller ones being totally unsuited for that purpose. After they are started, and when the shoots are about three or four inches long, pot them singly into small sixties in any light rich soil; wa- ter them freely, and place them in a hot-bed, keeping them close for a day or two, and shading them during sun- shine. They will, ifproperly attended to, be rooted in about ten days, and should then be removed toa much cooler place, and have plenty of air. When establish- ed, shift them into larger pots, and final- ly, before placing them out of doors, repot them, either into twelves or eights, according to the size of your plants. ‘¢Top the leading shoots to make them bushy; and when the danger of frost is over, they may be plunged in the open border, which saves much la- bour in watering; but even then they must be watered copiously in dry wea- ther. They will flower freely all the 7 summer and autumn, although the blooms will not be so fine upon plants grown in pots as upon those in the open border. After flowering, cut the tops off, and place the pots containing the roots in a dry cellar, or other place, where they will be secure from frost during the winter. Young plants struck from cuttings flower much better in pots than the old roots.?»—Gard. Chron. Exhibiting Stand.—Dr. Lindley says, <¢ The dimensions of a Dahlia stand for twelve blooms should be twenty-two inches long by sixteen and a half wide, four in depth, and five and a quarter from tube to tube: sixteen and a half by eleven and a quarter will be the proportion for a stand of six. The sur- face of stands is generally painted a light green; a colour which shows the flowers off to the greatest advantage.” —Gard. Chron. DAISY, (Bellis perennis.) Thereare many double varieties of this hardy pe- rennial; some white, others crimson, and many variegated. A more curious variety is the proliferous or Hen and Chicken Daisy. They all will flourish in any moist soil, and almost in any situation. They bloom from April to June. Propagated by slips, the smallest fragment of root, almost, enables them to grow. To keep them double and fine, they require moving occasionally. Planted as an edging round the Ranun- culus bed, their roots tempt the Wire- worm from those of the choicer flower. DALBERGIA. Nineteen species. Stove evergreen trees and climbers. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. DALEA. Fifteen species, including hardy, stove, and green-house annuals and perennials. The latter by cuttings, and the annuals by seed, in a frame, to transplant to borders. Loam and peat. DALECHAMPIA. Three species. Stove evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Loam and peat. DALIBARDA viol@oides. Half-hardy herbaceous. Division. Common light soil. DAMASCENE or DAMSON. See Plum. DAMASONIUM. Two species. Ten- der aquatics. Division. DAMMARA. Dammar pine tree. Two species. Cuttings. Sandy loam. DAMPIERA. Two species. Green- house herbaceous. Cuttings. Peat and loam. DAN 193 DEC -_-—_>-— DAMPING OFF is a name applied by gardeners to an ulceration of the stems of seedlings, and other ten- der plants. This ulceration arises from the soil and air in which they are vegetating being kept too moist or damp. Flower seedlings are especially liable to be thus affected; and, to pre- vent this, one-third of the depth of the pot should be filled with small pebbles, and the soil employed, instead of being sifted, allowed to retain all moderately sized stones. The seeds should be sown very thinly, pressed down, and a > little earth scattered over them. Mr. Ayres has well suggested that a little white sand be sprinkled over the sur- face, because this is not easily disturbed by watering, and is not a medium that retains moisture to the neck of the seedlings, where dampness most affects them. He adds, that a pot of sand should be kept hot upon a flue, and whenever symptoms of the disease ap- pear, a little, whilst hot, sprinkled on the soil. DANA alata. Stove fern. sion. Peat and loam. DANCING-GIRLS. Mantisia salta- toria. DAPHNE. Twenty-four species. Chiefly hardy or green-house evergreen shrubs, except D. tinifolia, which is a stove evergreen. Grafts onthe Spurge Laurel. (D.laureola.) Peat. DARLINGTONIA. Two species. Half-hardy herbaceous. Division or cuttings. Peat and sand. DATE-PALM. Pheniz. DATE-PLUM. Diospyros. DATISCA. Two species. herbaceous. Division. Common soil. DATURA. Nine species. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. DAUBENTONIA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam. DAUBENYA. Twospecies. Green- house bulbs. eat. DAUCUS. See Carrot. DAVALLIA. Seven species. Green- house ferns. Division or seed. Peat and loam. DAVIESIA. © Eighteen species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Loam, peat, and sand. DAY LILY. Hemerocaliis. DECEMBER is a month in which the gardener is preparing chiefly for future 13 Divi- Hardy P Offsets. Sandy loam and events—storing his edible roots—pro- tecting his tender plants, and wheeling on stable manure to vacant ground. The following work requires attend- ing to: KITCHEN GARDEN. Artichokes, dress.—Asparagus beds, dress, b.; plant to force; attend that in forcing.—Carrots, dig up and store, b.—Cauliflowers, in frame, &c., attend to.—Composts, prepare and turn over. —Dung, prepare for hot-beds.—Earth- ing-up, attend to.—Hot-beds, attend to. —Kidney Beans, force, e.—Leaves, fallen, remove.—Lettuces, plant in hot- beds; attend to those advancing.— Mint, force.-—Mushroom-beds, make; attend those in production.—Parsnips, dig up and store, b.—Radishes, sow, b. —Small Salading, sow in frames, &c. —Spinach, clear of weeds.—Tansy, force. — Tarragon, force. — Trench, drain, &c., vacant ground. ORCHARD. Apples, prune; plant. — Apricots, prune; plant.—Cherries, prune; plant. —Composts and fresh earth apply to poor or old borders.—Currants, prune ; plant.—Figs, plant; protect from frost. —Fork over and dress the compart- ments generally.—Gooseberries, prune ; plant.— Mulch round the roots and stems of trees newly planted, to ex- clude frost.—Nectarines, prune; plant. —Pears, prune; plant. — Peaches, prune; plant.—Planf all kinds of trees in mild weather.—Plums, prune; plant. —Pruning may be continued generally. (See November.)—Raspberries, prune ; lant.—Trench and manure ground for planting.—Stake firmly trees newly planted.—Standards, prune generally. — Suckers, clear away ; plant for stocks. —Vzines, prune ; but last month is to be preferred for this operation, if the foli- age had completely decayed. FLOWER GARDEN. Anemones, defend in bad weather; plant if mild.— Aurzculas, defend in in- clement weather.— Bulbs omitted may be planted if the weather be mild. (See November.)—Carnations, defend in inclement weather.—Composts, pre- pare.—Dig over borders and dress all quarters generally.— Edgings, plant.— Fibrous-rooted Perenniais and Biennials divide and plant.—Flowers (choice), defend generally from inclement wea- ther. — Grass, roll occasionally, if DEC 194 DEF = ge f winter be mild.— Gravel, roll and| DECIDUOUS PLANTS are those keep orderly.—Hedges, plant and plash. —Hyacinths, defend in inclement wea- ther.—Leaves, collect for composts. —Mulch round the roots and stems of shrubs newly planted.—Plant shrubs of all kinds.—Potted Plants, protect in deep frames, &c.; place in hot-house for forcing.—Prune all shrubs requiring reguJation.—Ranunculuses, defend in bad weather ; plant if mild.—Seedlings of all kinds require protection.—Stake shrubs newly planted, and any others requiring support.—Suckers may be planted as removed during the winter dressing.—Tulips, defend in bad wea- ther.—Turfs may be laid in open wea- ther.— Water in glasses, change week- ly; add a few grains of salt or five drops of spirits of hartshorn. HOT-HOUSE. Air, admit freely as the season will | admit.—Bark-beds, keep in operation. — Bulbs, in pots, introduce.—Cucum- bers, sow in pots, and plunge in bark- bed.— Flowering Plants, as Pinks, &c., introduce in pots.—Glasses must now all be put in, for forcing commences in earnest ; cover during severe frost.— Kidney Beans (Dwarf), sown in boxes, &c., introduce.—Peaches, day temp. 55°; keep air moist.—Pines, water oc- casionally ; attend strictly to the bot- tom heat.—Roses in pots, introduce.— Strawberries in pots, introduce.—Tem- perature, may decline 15° or 20° at night; day temp. for flowering plants 60°.—Vines in pots may be introduced ; or planted in Hot-house; stems out- side bind round thickly with hay-bands, &c.—Water is required in smal] quan- . tities; keep it in the house. GREEN-HOUSE. Air, admit as freely as possible; | cause the best draught you can.—Com- | post, prepare.—Earth of pots, stir when | crusted.— Foggy air exclude, for damp renders cold injurious. — Glass, cover with mats, &c., during severe frost.— Leaves, clean; remove decayed.—Peat Soil, collect.—Temperature, sustain as required by lighting fires; day maxi- mum, 45°; night minimum, 350.—Wa- ter sparingly. | DECEMBER MOTH. See Pacil- ocamp4. DECIDUOUS CYPRESS. Tazxodium distichum. | the case of the vine. which shed all their leaves at one time annually. In this country the fall of the leaf is during the autumn. In the East Indies it is during the hottest and driest months. : DECODONS verticillatus. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Common soil. DECUMARIA. Three species. Hardy deciduous twiners. Layers and cuttings. Common soil. DEFORMITY. The leaves of plants frequently assume an unnatural form on account of their being wounded by in- sects. Keith, in his Physiology of Plants, thus enumerates some of the most customary :— ; ‘¢ The leaves of the apricot, peach and nectarine are extremely liable to be thus affected in the months of June and July. Theleafthat has been punc- tured soon begins to assume a rough and wrinkled figure, and a reddish and scrofulous appearance, particularly on the upper surface; the margins roll inwards on the under side, and inclose the eggs, which are scattered irregu- larly on the surface, giving it a blackish and granular appearance, but without materially injuring its health. ‘¢ In the vine the substance deposited on the leaf is whitish, giving the under surface a sort of frosted appearance, but not occasioning the red and scrofulous aspect of the upper surface of the leaf of the nectarine. ‘In the poplar the eggs, when first deposited, resemble a number of small and hoary vesicles, containing a sort of clear and colourless fluid. The leaf then becomes reflected and condupli- cate, inclosing the eggs, with a few reddish protuberances on the upper sur- face. The embryo is nourished by this fluid, and the hoariness is converted into a fine cottony down, which for some time envelops the young fly. ‘¢ The leaf of the lime-tree, in par- | ticular, is liable to attacks from insects when fully expanded; and hence the gnawed appearance it so often exhibits. The iniury seems to be occasioned by some species of puceron depositing its ‘eggs in the parenchyma, generally about the angles tHat branch off from 'the midrib. A sort of down is pro- duced, at first green and afterwards hoary, sometimes in patches, and some- times pervading the whole Jeaf, as in Under this cover- DEG 19 i) DES —_@-—_- ing the egg is hatched; and then the young insect gnaws and injures the leaf, leaving a hole or scar of a burnt or singed appearance. <¢ Sometimes the upper surface of the leaf is covered with clusters of wart- like substances. They seem to be oc- casioned by means of a puncture made on the under surface, in which a num- ber of openings are discoverable, pene- trating into the warts, which are hollow and villous within.” _ For these the only remedy is to re- move the insects with the least possible delay ; and, if the injury is extensive, adding water and liquid manure to the roots rather more freely, to promote a fresh and larger development of the leaves. Deformities of the stems of trees and shrubs arise from another cause—from the extension of the woody fibre being greater and longer continued on one side, it frequently becomes contorted. Gardeners usually endeavour to remedy this by making an incision on the inner side of the curvature, and then employ- ing force to restore it to a rectilinear form, causing a gaping wound, and mostly failing to attain the object. If the incision be made on the outer side of the curve, thus dividing the woody fibres that continue to elongate most rapidly, the branch or stem, with but slight assistance, will recover its due form, and there will be no open wound. ‘¢ From the fact that there is invari- ably more woody matter deposited on the side of a stem or branch which is most exposed to the air and light, gar- deners have explained to them why those sides of their trained trees which are nearest the wall ripen, as they term it, most slowly, and are benefitted by being loosened from the wall so scon as they are relieved from their fruit. <‘If they require any demonstration that this explanation is correct, they need only examine the trees in clumps and avenues: their external sides will be found to enlarge much more rapidly than their internal or most shaded sides.”—Principles of Gard. DEGENERATE.. A plant is said to have degenerated, or to be not of true stock, when it arises from seed without the good characteristics of the parent. Ill cultivation may render a plant of altered stature, and its produce of defi- cient flavour; but this is not degene- |an artificial lake, is but a conceit; ‘danger : racy. A species never degenerates ; its seed may be hybridized ; but the seed- lings are not degenerate —they- are varieties. But varieties do degenerate: Brussels sprouts grown at Malines give birth to seeds that yield seedlings quite degenerated ; but those seedlings, re- turned to the neighbourhood of Brussels, yield, after two or three generations, plants that are true Brussels sprouts. Many varieties of wheat, excellent. when cultivated in one locality, yield seed that produces a different and in- ferior sample in another locality, differ- ing in soil and annual meteorological phenomena. DELIMA. Two species. Stove ever- green climbers. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. DELPHINIUM. Larkspur. Fifty- three species, and many varieties.— Hardy perennials and annuals. Divi- sion or seed. Common soil. DENDROBIUM. Fifty-seven species. Stove epiphytes. Division. Turfy peat. DENDROMECON rigidun. Half- hardy evergreen shrub. Seed. Com- mon soil, DENTARIA. Thirteen species. Hardy tubers. Division or seed. Sandy moist shaded soil. DESIGN. ‘*Consult the genius of the place’? before you determine upon your design, is sound advice; for in gardening, as in all the fine arts, nothing is pleasing that is inappropriate. Mr. Whateley, our best authority on such subjects, truly says,— ‘¢ A plain simple field, unadorned but with the common rural appendages, is an agreeable opening; but if it is extremely small, neithera haystack, nor a cottage, nor a stile, nor a path, nor much less all of them together, will give it an air of reality. A harbour, on it raises no idea of refuge or security, for the lake does not suggest an idea of it is detached from the large body.of water, and yet is in itself but a peor inconsiderable basin, vainly affect- ing to mimic the majesty of the sea. ‘¢ When imitative characters in gar- dening are egregiously defective in any material circumstance, the truth of the others exposes and aggravates the faii- ure. But the art of gardening aspires to more than imitation; it can create original characters, and give expres- sions to the several scenes superior to DES 196 DIB ———es any they can receive from illusions. Certain properties, and certain disposi- tions of the objects of nature, are adapt- ed to excite particular ideas and sen- sations. Many of them have been occa- sionally mentioned, and all are very well known: they require no discern- ment, examination, or discussion, but are obvious at a glance, and instanta- neously distinguished by our feelings. Beauty alone is not so engaging as this species of character; the impressions it makes are more transient and less in- teresting ; for it aims only at delighting the eye, but the other affects our sensi- bility. An assemblage of the most ele- gant forms, in the happiest situations, is to a degree indiscriminate, if they have not been selected and arranged with a design to produce certain ex- pressions; an air of magnificence or of simplicity, of cheerfulness, tranquillity, or some other general character, ought to pervade the whole; and objects pleasing in themselves, if they contra- dict that character, should therefore be excluded. Those which are only in- different must sometimes make room for such as are more significant—may occasionally be recommended by it. Barrenness itself may be an acceptable circumstance in a spot dedicated to soli- tude and melancholy. _© The power of such characters is not confined to the ideas which the ob- jects immediately suggest; for these are connected with others which in- sensibly lead to subjects far distant perhaps from the original thought, and reiated to it only by a similitude in the sensations they excite. In a prospect enriched and enlivened with inhabit- ants and cultivation, the attention is caught at first by the circumstances which are gayest in their season—the bloom of an orchard, the festivity of a hay-field, and the carols of harvest- home; but the cheerfulness which these infuse into the mind expands afterwards to other objects than those immediately presented to the eye ; and we are there- by disposed to receive, and delighted to pursue, a variety of pleasing ideas, and every benevolent feeling. At the sight of a ruin, reflections on the change, the decay, and the desolation before us naturally occur; and they introduce a Jong succession of others, ail tinctured with that melancholy which these have inspired. Or, if the monument revives the memory of for- mer times, we do not stop at the sim- ple fact which it records, but recol- lect many more coeval circumstances, which we see, not perhaps as they were, but as they have come down to us—venerable with age, and magnified by fame. Even without the assistance of buildings, or other adventitious cir- cumstances, nature alone furnishes materials for scenes which may be adapted to almost every kind of ex- pression; their operation is general, and their consequences infinite. The mind is elevated, depressed, or com- posed, as gaiety, gloom, or tranquillity prevail in the scene; and we soon lose sight of the means by which the cha- racter is formed. We forget the par- ticular objects it presents; and giving way to their effects without recurring to the cause, we follow the track they have begun to any extent which the disposition they accord with will al- low.2°— Whateley. DESMANTHUS. Five species.— Stove aquatics and evergreens. The former by seeds in water; the latter by cuttings in peat and loam. DESMOCHETA. Eight species.— Stove and green-house evergreens, and herbaceous. Seeds, division or cut- tings. Sandy Joam and peat. DESMODIUM. Thirty-two species. Chiefly stove evergreens, but a few hardy and herbaceous. Cuttings.— Sandy loam and peat. DESMONCHUS. Stove palms. Seed. Sandy peat. DEUTZIA seabra. Hardy decidu- ous shrub. Layers and cuttings. Com- mon soil. D. corymbosa is a hardy evergreen shrub, similarly propagated. DEVONSHIRING. See Paring and Burning. DEWBERRY. Rubus cesius. DIANELLA. Nine species. Green- house tubers. Division and seed.— Loam and peat. DIANTHUS. One hundred species, and very many varieties. Chiefly hardy herbaceous. Seed and pipings. Rich light loam. See Carnation and Pink. DIAPENSIA lapponica. Hardy herbaceous. Division and seed. Peat. DIBBER, or DIBBLE. This instru- ment for making holes in which to in- sert seeds or plants, is usually very simple in its construction, being at the Four species. DIC 197 DIG —_4—_. best the head of an old spade-handle. To secure uniformity of depth in plant- ing beans, &c., by this instrument, it is useful to have it perforated with holes to receive an iron peg, at two and three inches from the point, as in the follow- ing outline. Fig. 34. It should be Fig. 34. shod with iron; for if this be kept bright it will make holes into which the soil will not crumble from the sides. The crumbling is induced by the soil’s adhesion tothe dibble. For planting potatoes, a dibble with a head three inches diameter at the point, six inches long up to the foot-rest, and with a handle four feet long, is to be prefer- red. For the insertion of seed a dib- ble that delivers the seed has been in- vented by a Mr. Smith. DICERMA. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs... Cuttings. Loam and eat. DICHILUS lebeckioides. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings.— Sandy loam and peat. DiCHORIZANDRA. Five species. Stove herbaceous. Division or seed. Common soil. DICHOSMA _ bifida. evergreen shrub. Cuttings. sand. DICKSONIA. Seven species. Stove ferns. Division and seed. Loam and peat. DICLIPTERA. Eleven species.—. Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs, but two are annuals. The latter are raised from seed; the others from cuttings. Light soil, with a little peat. DICRYPTA. Four species. Green-house Peat and Stove epiphytes. Offsets. Peat and _ pot- sherds. DICTAMNUS. Three species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Common soil. DIDYMOCHLAINA pulcherrima,— Stove fern. Seed and division. loam and leaf-mould. DIELYTRA. Ninespecies. Hardy herbaceous. Division or seed. Rich light loam. DIERVILLA lutea. Sandy Hardy decidu- ous shrub. Suckers. Common soil. DIETES. Three species. Half- hardy herbaceous. Suckers or seed. Light loam. DIGGING is an operation performed with the spade or fork, having for its object a loosening of the soil so as to render it more fit for the reception of seeds or plants. For its correct per- formance Mawe and Abercrombie give these directions: — ‘< Begin at one end of the piece of ground, and with your spade open a trench quite across, one good spade wide and one deep, carrying the earth to the end or place where you finish ; then, keeping your face to the opening, proceed to dig, one spade deep, regular- ly from one side of the piece to the other, turning the spits neatly into the trench, and the next course against these; and so keep digging straight back, spit and spit, still preserving an open trench, a good spade width and depth, between the dug and undug ground, that you may have full room to give every spit a clean turn, taking all the spits perpendicularly, and not taking too much before the spade, especially in stiff land, or where the surface is full of weeds, or is much dunged; so giving every spit a clean turn, the top to the bottom and the bottom to the top, that the weeds or dung on the surface may be buried a due depth, and that the clean fresh earth may be turned up. ‘sAs you proceed break all large clods, and preserve an even surface, carrying both sides and middle on equally, unless one side shall be hollow; then carry on the hollow side first in a kind of gradual sweep, inclining the spits of earth rather that way, which will gradually raise that side and reduce the high one, observing the same if both sides are high and the middle hollow, or both sides hollow and the middle high, always keeping the lower ground advancing gradually before the higher ; by which you will always maintain a uniform level, whether horizontal or declining. ‘¢ The same should also be observed in beginning to dig any piece of ground, DIG 198 DIG —_*—_ that if one corner is much lower than another, carry on the lower part some- what first, in a kind of easy sweep or slanting direction, as far as necessary. Likewise, in finishing any pieces of dig- ging, gradually round upon the lower side so as to finish at the highest corner; and having digged to the end, or that. part of any piece of ground where you intend to finish, then use the earth dig- | ged out of the first trench to make good | the last opening equal with the other ground. In plain digging dunged ground, if the dung is quite rotten, you may dig clean through, giving each spit 2 clean turn to bury the dung in the bottom of the trench; but if you cannot | readily do this, trim the dung a spade’s width at a time into the furrow or open trench, and so dig the ground upon it, which is rather the most effectual method, whether rotten or long fresh dung. ‘‘ In the course of digging all weeds that are perennial should be carefully picked out, particularly couch-grass and bear-bind; for the least bit of either will grow. But annual weeds, ground- sel, and the like, should be turned down to the bottom of the trench, where they will rot. ss A man will dig by plain digging of light free-working clean ground, eight, ten, or twelve rods a day, from six to six, though in some of the light clean ground about London, I have known a man turn up fifteen or twenty rods a day, from five to seven; on the other hand, in stiff stubborn soils, a man may work hard for six or eight rods in a day of twelve hours; and that digging by trenches, or trenching, if only one spade deep with- out the crumbs or shovelling at bottom, a man will dig almost as much as by plain digging; or two spades’ depth, from four to six rods a day may be good work, though in harsh working ground digging three or four rods per day may be hard work.?? Most garden soils dig best the day after a fall of rain; and if the soil has in its composition a larger proportion than usual of clay, the opera- tion will be faciliated by dipping occa- sionally the spade into water. Most gardeners object to digging while snow is upon the ground, and, as Dr. Lindley | justly observes, the objection is not mere prejudice, for experience proves the bad result of the practice. The evil is owing to the great quantity of heat| required to reduce ice or snow from the solid to the fluid state. A pound of snow newly fallen requires an equal weight of water, heated to 172°, to melt it, and then the dissolved mixture is only of the temperaturé of 32°. Ice requires the water to be a few degrees warmer, to produce the same result. When ice or snow is allowed to remain on the surface, the quantity of heat necessary to reduce it to a fluid state is obtained chiefly from the atmosphere ; but when buried so that the atmospheric heat can- not act directly upon it, the thawing must be very slowly effected, by the abstraction of heat from the soil by which the frozen mass is surrounded. Instances have occurred of frozen’ soil not being completely thawed at mid- summer; when so, the air, which fills the interstices of the soil, will be con- tinually undergoing condensation as it comes in contact with the cold portions; and, accordingly, the latter wil] be in a very saturated condition even after they have become thawed.—Gard. Chron. Very few people ever consider in de- tail the expenditure of labour required from the gardener when:digging. It is a labour above al] others calling into exercise the muscles of the human frame, and how great is the amount of this exercise may be estimated from the following facts :— In digging a square perch of ground in spits of the usual dimensions (seven inches by eight inches) the spade has to be thrust in 700 times; and as each spadeful of earth, if the spade pene- trates nine inches, as it ought to do, will weigh on the average full seventeen pounds, 11,900 pounds of earth have to be lifted, and the customary pay for doing this is two-pence half-penny. As there are 100 perches or rods in an acre, in digging the latter measure of ground the garden labourer has to cut out 112,- 000 spadesful of earth, weighing in the aggregate 17,000 cwt., or 850 tons, and during the work he moves over a distance of fourteen miles. As the spade weighs between eight and nine pounds, he has to lift, in fact, during the work, half as much more weight than that above specified, or 1,278 tons. An able-bodied Jabourer can dig ten square perches a day. A four-pronged fork, with the prongs twelve inches long, and the whole together forming a head eight inches wide, is a more efficient tool for DIG digging than the common spade. It requires the exertion of less power; breaks up the soi] more effectually; and does not clog even when the soil is moist wet. Itisless costly than the spade, and when worn can be relaid at a less expense. DIGITALIS. Hardy herbaceous. soil. DILATRIS. Three species. Green- house herbaceous. Division or seed. Sandy peat. DILL. (Anethum graveolens.) Use.—Its leaves and umbels are used in pickling, and the former in soups and sauces. Soil and Situation.—It may be culti- vated in any open compartment; but if for seed, a sheltered situation, and a soil rather dry than damp, is to be allot- ted for it. Time of Sowing.—lIt is best sown im- mediately that it is ripe, for if kept out of the ground until the spring it often is incapable of germinating. If neglected until the spring, it may be sown from the close of February until the com- mencementof May, in drills a foot apart. The plants are to remain where sown, as they will not bear removing. When of three or four weeks’ growth they must be thinned to about ten inches apart; for if not allowed room they spindle, their leaves decay, no lateral branches are thrown out, and their seed is not so good ; in every stage of growth they require to be kept clear of weeds. The leaves are fit for gathering as wanted, and the umbels about July and August. In September their seed ripens, when it must be immediately cut, and spread on a cloth to dry, as it is very apt to scatter. DILLENIA speciosa. Stove ever- green tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam. DILLWYNIA. Fifteen species. Twenty-six species. Seed. Common Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. DINEMA polybulbon. Stove epi- phyte. Offsets. Peat and postsherds. DINETUS paniculata and racemosa. The first a stove perennial ; the second a hardy annual twiner. The first by cuttings; the second by seed. Rich sandy soil. DIODIA. Four species. Stove ever- green trailers, except D. virginica, which is hardy and deciduous. Cut- tings. Light soil. 199 DIS DIOMEDEA. Three species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Rich light loam. DIOSCOREA. Yam. Five species. Stove tubers. Division. Light rich soil, DIOSMA. Twenty-three species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Peat and sand. DIOSPYROS. Twenty-three species. Chiefly stove evergreen trees, but a few are hardy. Cuttings. Light loam. DIPHYLLEIA cymosa. Hardy herb- aceous. Division. Light rich soil. DIPHACA cochinchinensis. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and loam. DIPHYSA carthaginensis. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. DIPLACUS. ‘Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Rich sandy loam. DIPLAZIUM. Nine species. Stove ferns. Division or seed. Loam and peat. DIPLOCOMA villosa. Hardy herba- ceous. Seed and division. Common soil. DIPLOLANA dampieri. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat. DIPLOPAPPUS incanus. Half-hardy evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam. DIPLOPELTIS hugelzi. Green-house herbaceous. Young cuttings. Common soil. DIPLOPHYLLUM veronice forme. Hardy annual trailer. Seed. Common soi. DIPLOTHEMIUM. Two species. Stove palms. Seed. Rich light loam. DIPODIUM punctatum. Stove orchid. Division. Sandy loam and peat. DIPSACUS. _ Six species. biennials. Seed. Common soil. DIPTERIX odorata. Stove ever- green tree. Cuttings. Rich loam. DIRCA palustris. Hardy deciduous shrub. Layers or seeds. Sandy loam. DISA. Twelve species. Green-house orchids. Division. Peat, loam, and sand. DISANDRA prostrata. Green-house evergreen trailer. Division or cuttings. Rich light soil. DISBUDDING is the removal, soon after they have burst into leaves, ou such buds as,if allowed to grow into shoots, would be misplaced. Thus, Hardy DIS 200 DOU —_-———— buds protruded directly in the front of, DISEMMA. Two species. Stove branches trained against walls, or fore-| evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Loam right shoots, as they are correctly term-| and peat. ed, and buds that would produce shoots} DISPERIS. Three species. Green- in places already sufficiently filled with branches, may be removed, or disbud- ded. The object is to strengthen the desirably-placed buds by thus confining the expenditure of sap upon them.) There is no better mode of aiding a weakly plant to a more vigorous and robust growth than judicious disbud- ding; but an over-robust and super- luxuriant tree had better be allowed to exhaust itself by a profuse development of Jeaf buds. DISCHIDIA. Two species. Stove evergreen trailers. Cuttings. Sandy loam. DISEASES. Dr. Good, the distin- guished medical writer, has remarked, that the morbid affections to which the vegetable part of the creation is liable, are almost as numerous as those which render decrepid and destroy the animal tribes. It would be difficult, perhaps, whatever system of nosology is follow- ed, to place a finger upon a class of animal physical diseases of which a pa- rallel example could not be pointed out among plants. The smut which ravages our corn crops; the mildew which de- stroys our peas; the curl thatis annually infecting more destructively our pota- toes; the ambury, or club-root, to which - our turnips and other species of brassica are liable; the shanking, or ulceration, which attacks the stalks of our grapes, are only a few of the most commonly observed diseases to which the plants we cultivate are liable. Disease is the negation of health; and as the health of a plant is the cor- rect performance of its functions, dis- ease may be defined to be an incorrect performance of the functions. Such incorrectness arises from four causes— vital energy declining from old age— parasites—improper food, either in qua- lity or quantity—and inauspicious tem- perature. If these could beall avoided, a plant might enjoy a vigorous immor- tality. Such, however, is not the lot of | any organized being, and in proportion to the debilitating circumstances are the nature, the intensity, and final con- sequences of the disease induced. The little known relative to the diseases which infest the gardeners’ crops, will be found under their respective titles. house orchids. and sand. DISPORUM. Two species. Half- hardy herbaceous. Division and seed. Peat and loam. DISSOLENA verticillata. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich light soil. DITTANY. Origanum dictamnus. Division. Peat, loam, DIURIS. Ejight species. Green- house orchids. Division. Peat, loam, and sand. DODECATHEON. Twospecies, and several varieties. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Light loam. See American Cowslip. DOG-WOOD. Cornus. DOLICHOS. Sixteen species. The two green-house twiners, D. jacquinit and lignosus, are the only two worth cultivating. Cuttings. Rich sandy loam. DOLIOCARPUS calinea. Stove ever- green climber. Cuttings. Turfy loam and peat. DOMBEYA._ Six species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. DONDIA epipactris. Hardy herba- ceous. Seed or division. Loam and eat. DOODIA. Four species. Green- house ferns. Division and seed. Loam and peat. DORONICUM. Ninespecies. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Common soil. DORTMANNA. Two species. Har- dy herbaceous. Division. Peat. DORYCNIUM. Eight species. Har- dy annual, herbaceous and evergreen. Seed. Sandy loam. DOUBLE FLOWERS. Hybridizing, aided by cultivation, gives birth to these objects of the gardener’s care generally designated double flowers, which are such beauteous ornaments of our bor- ders and parterres. To the uninitiated it seems incredible that the double moss rose should be a legitimate descendant from the briar; neither do the flowers of the Fair Maid of France appear less impossible derivatives from those of the Ranunculus platanifolius; nor bache- lors? buttons from the common butter- cup; yet so they are. Double flowers, as they are popularly called, are more correctly discriminated as the full flow- DOU 201 DOU ——_@——— er, the multiplicate flower, and the pro- liferous flower. The full flower is a flower with its petals augmented in number by the to- tal transformation into them of its sta- mens and its pistils. One-petalled flowers rarely undergo this metamor- phosis, but it is very common in those having many petals, as in the carnation, ranunculus, rose, and poppy. But this is not the only mode in which a flower becomes full, for in the columbine (Aqui- legia) it is effected in three different ways, viz., by the multiplication of pe- tals to the exclusion of the nectaries; by the multiplication of the nectaries to the exclusion of the petals; and by the multiplication of the nectaries, whilst the usual petals remain. Radiated flowers, such as the sun- flower, dahlia, anthemis, and others, become full by the multiplication of the florets of their rays to the exclusion of the florets of their disk. On the con- trary, various species of the daisy, ma- tricaria, &c., become full by the mul- plication of the florets of the disk. The multiplicate flower has its petals increased by the conversion ofa portion of its stamens, or of its calyx, in those forms. It occurs most frequently in polypetalous flowers. Linnzus gives the only instances I know of the con- version of the calyx into petals, and these are to be observed in the pink (Dianthus caryophyllus), and a few of the Alpine grasses. A proliferous flower has another flower or a shoot produced from it, as in the variety of the daisy popularly known as the hen-and-chickens. It occurs also more rarely in the ranuncu- lus, pink, marigold, and hawkweed. A leafy shoot often appears in the bosom of the double-blossomed cherry, ane- mone, and rose. A due supply of moisture, but rather less than the plant most delights in, when the production of seed is the de- sired object, a superabundant supply of decomposing organic matter to its roots, and an exposure to the greatest possible degree of sun-light, are the means suc- cessfully employed to promote that ex- cessive development of the petals which characterize double flowers. By these means a greater quantity of sap is supplied to the flower than the natural extent of the petal can elabo- rate; and following the laws of nature specified elsewhere, those parts re- quired for the extra elaboration, are developed at the expense of Me not demanded for the purpose. The chief office of the beret is this preparation of nourishment for the sta- mens, and for the most part they fade together, usually enduring until im- pregnation has been effected, or has altogether failed. In double flowers, too, as was observed by the late Sir J. E. Smith, the corolla is much more durable than in single ones of the same species, as anemones and poppies, be- cause as he conceived, in such double flowers the natural function not being performed, the vital principle of their © corolla is not so soon exhausted. Ad- vantage may be taken of this to prolong the duration of flowers by cutting away the pistils or stamens, whichever are least conspicuous, with a sharp pair of pointed scissors. Although an abundant supply of nou- rishment is absolutely necessary for the production of double flowers, it is quite as certain that such supply will not of a certainty cause their appearance; there must be some tendency in the pa- rent thus to sport, otherwise the super- fluity of food will not have the desired influence. That abundance of nourish- ment is necessary, appears from the fact that if the double daisy or the double narcissus be grown in a poor soil, they speedily produce none.but single flow- ers; yetif they again be restored toa rich soil, they may with care be made to produce an unnatural profusion of petals. Mr. D. Beaton’s estimate of a double flower is original. He says that cultiva- tion having enlarged all the parts ofa plant, the constitutional vigour thus ob- tained is transferred to the next genera- tion, and to some of the seedlings, in a measure even greater than that possessed by the parent. Extraordinary supplies of nourishment under favourable cir- cumstances, invigorate still further the improved race, and so on through many generations. During this time cultiva- tion produces the very opposite of dou- ble flowers, and Mr. Beaton thinks it would continue to do so, if it were pos- sible to keep up every member of each generation to the same degree of health and vigour; but accidents and diseases overtake some of the plants, and double flowers are the produce from the decre- pits. Cultivation, according to this idea, DOU is only indirectly the cause of double flowers, and these a retrograde step from a high state of development. Whether my own opinion .or Mr. Beaton’s be correct, it is quite certain that in practice the plants from which double-flowered varieties are sought, must be kept in the highest state of de- velopment by supplying them abundant- ly with all the assistance to vigorous growth; and when the seed vessels are formed, they should be reduced in num- ber in order to make the seed in those remaining as large and perfect as pos- sible. In the course of a few generations, seedlings appear, having flowers with an excess of petals, and seeds being ob- tained from these, or from other flowers impregnated by their stamens, and the same high cultivation continued, the excess of petalsincreases and becomes a permanent habit. DOUCIN STOCK. See Stock. DOUGLASIA nivalis. Hardy herba- ceous. Seed. Peat and sand. DRABA. Forty-one species. Hardy herbaceous chiefly, and a few annuals. Seed. Loam and peat. DRACGNA. Twenty-two species. Stove evergreen trees and shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy loam. DRACOCEPHALUM. Twenty spe- cies. Chiefly hardy herbaceous. Divi- sion or seed. Common soil. DRACOPHYLLUM. Three species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy peat. DRAGON’S-HEAD. Dracocephalum. DRAGON TREE. Dracena draco. DRAINING. There is scarcely a gar- den existing that would not be benefited by under-draining. Every gardener knows the absolute necessity for a good drainage under his wall-trees and vines, but few gardeners ever think for a mo- ment, whether there is any escape and out-fall for the water he has drained from immediate contact with the roots of the above-named favoured trees. Every garden should have drains cut, varying in depth from two to three feet, accord- ing to the depth of the soil, with an in- terval of twenty-four feet between the drains ; twelve feet will not be too near in clayey soils. At the bottom of the drains should be placed one-inch pipes; these should be well puddled over, six inches deep with clay, and then the earth returned. They should have an outfall into a ditch, at the least elevated 202 === == DRI side of the garden. By having the pipes with a bore no larger than an inch, moles cannot creep in, and that bore is large enough to carry off all the water, after even the heaviest rains. Draining farm-lands has been performed to a great extent in England, and with most advantageous results: at Lord Hatherton’s residence, Teddesley Hay, in Staffordshire, four hundred and sixty- seven acres, formerly letting for an average rental of 12s. per acre, were all drained for an outlay of 3/. 4s. 7d. per acre, and their rental now averages more than 31s. per acre. To plants in pots, good drainage is not less essential than to those in our borders. DREPANOCARPUS lunatus. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich loam. DRILLING. No crop in the garden should be sown broadcast, for drilling saves seed and labour; and although in some cases it takes more time to insert the seed in drills, yet this is more than compensated by the time saved during the after-culture, for the thinning and hoeing are greatly facilitated. The distance apart appropriate for the drills for particular crops, will be found under their respective titles; they are usually made with a hoe and line; but for mustard, cress, and other small seeds, the drill-rake is often used. The teeth are set six inches apart, and are broad and coulter formed. When the drills are required to be less than six inches apart, the implement can be worked diagonally. DRILL BARROWS, or SEED SOW- ERS. ‘* Various have been the con- trivances for sowing seeds, many having the mere merit of ingenuity, without practical utility; because when used with adhesive seeds, or those of rough form, they clog, and, in consequence, sow irregularly. Those now offered, obviate all such objections, being suited alike for Turnips, Beets, Onions, Car- rots, Parsnips, &c. By the use of a good Drill, the farmer or gardener can save one-half of his seed, (that is, none are needlessly sown,) and do the work at much less expense, as well as with greater rapidity than by the ordinary mode of sowing ; as the Drill opens the furrow, drops the seed, covers and rolls it down.”—Rural Register. A very simple and low-priced Drili is formed by a tin tube, or hollow cane, surmounted by a funnel-like mouth- DRI 203 DUN —+—_. piece, to receive the seeds. The ope-|seeds into the funnel at the required rator holds it in his left hand, directing the lower extremity to the line where he desires the seed to fall, and with the fingers of his right hand dropping the rapidity—a little practice enables the sower to pass over the ground with speed, and perform the work with re- gularity. Fig. 35. : DRIMIA. Thirteen species. Green- house bulbs. Offsets. Sandy loam and eat. DROSERA. Nine species. Hardy and green-house aquatics. Seeds. Peat and water. DRUMMONDIA mitelloides. herbaceous. Division. Peat. Hardy a ee eee = atsonsipaimees DUNG. Under this title our atten- tion must be confined to the feces and urines of animals, and that one most common compound, stable dung. Night-soil is the richest of the ma- nures to be arranged under this head. It is composed of human feces and urine, of which the constituents are as DRYANDRA. Nineteen species. | follows :— Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Turfy sandy loam and peat. DRYAS. Four species. Hardy ever- green trees. Seed and cuttings. Peat and loam. DRYMONIA. Two species. Stove evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Rich sandy loam. DRYPETES crocea. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Loam and eat. DRYPIS spinosa. Hardy evergreen shrub. Cuttingsandseed. Sandy peat and loam. DRY-STOVE is a hot-house devoted to the culture of such plants as require a high degree of heat, but a drier at- mosphere than the tenants of the bark- stove. Consequently, fermenting mate- rials and open tanks of hot-water are inadmissible; but the sources of heat are either steam or hot-water pipes, or flues. See Stove. DUMASIA. Two species. Green- house evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Peat and sandy loam. DUMB-CANE Caladium sequinum. FECES. AN GOT i ise toners inc haved dy gorgbess Vegetable and animal remains 7 1 GOS Be Brains Sey gr: eR A PCT TCS; ea ae ae em Peculiar and extractive matter 1 Salts (carbonate of soda, common salt, sulphate of soda, ammonia-phosphate > 2.7 of magnesia, and phos- phate of lime) Insoluble residue . . . 14.0 URINE. Urate of ammonia . . . 0.298 Sal-ammoniac 0.459 Sulphate of potash . . 2.112 Chloride of potassium . . 3.674 sodium (com- mon salt) 15.060 Phosphate of soda . . 4.267 lime . . . 0.209 Acetateofsoda .. 2.770 Urea and colouring matter 23.640 Water and lactic acid . . 47.511 After stating the above analyses in DUMERILIA paniculata. Stove|his excellent work, “On Fertilizers,” evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Common | Mr. Cuthbert Johnson proceeds to ob- soil. serve that, “The very chemical compo- DUN 204 DUN —__4—— sition, therefore, of this compost would! mon salt, phosphate of lime, ond sul indicate the powerful fertilizing effects| phate of soda. which it is proved to produce. The mass of easily soluble and decomposa- ble animal matters and salts of ammo- nia with which it abounds, its phosphate | of lime, its carbonate of soda, are all, by themseives, excellent fertilizers, and must afford a copious supply of food to plants. <¢ The disagreeable smeil may be de- stroyed by mixing it with quicklime; and if exposed to the atmosphere in thin lay- ers in fine weather, and mixed with quicklime, it speedily dries, is easily pulverized, and in this state may be used in the same manner as rape cake, and | delivered into the furrow with the | seed.?? From the experiments of M. Schubler | and others, the relative value of night- soil is as follows :— ‘¢ Ifa given quantity of the Jand sown without manure yields three times the seed employed, then the same quantity of land will produce five times the quantity sown when manured with old herbage, putrid grass or leaves, garden stuff, &c.; seven times with cow-dung ; nine times with pigeon’s dung; ten times with horse-dung ; twelve times with human urine; twelve times. with goat’s dung ; twelve times with sheep’s dung ; and fourteen times with human manure, or bullock’s blood. But ifthe land be of such quality as to produce without manure five times the sown quantity, then the horse-dung manure will yield fourteen, and human manure nineteen and two-thirds the sown quan- tity.—Johnson’s Fertilizers. Fowl Dung, if composed partly of that of the duck, which is a gross feeder, is nearly equal to guano. This, and that of the pigeon contain much ammonia, and all abound in phosphate of lime, mixed with decomposing organic mat- ters and uric acid, all highly valuable as fertilizers. Stable or Farm-yard Dung is usually composed) of the following matters :— HORSE URINE. Water and mucus j Carbonate oflime . . . — soda Hippurate of soda Chloride of ar a aaa Urea. But besides the Pyheg it conan com- —Journ. Roy. Agr. "Soc., Vol. I. p- 489. COW URINE. Water . Phosphate of lime Chloride of potassium, and sal-ammoniac .. . Sulphate of potash . . . Carbonate of potash . ———_—_——_--ammonia . U))3 SF Pe i aad *¢ One thousand parts of dry wheat | Straw being burnt, yielded M. Saussure forty-eight parts of ashes; the same quantity of the dry straw of barley yielded forty-two parts of ashes. The portion dissipated by the fire would be principally carbon, (charcoal,) carbu- retted hydrogen, gas, and water; one hundred parts of these ashes are com- posed of— Various soluble salts, princi- 221 pally carbonate and sul- phate of potash . Phosphate of lime (earthy salt of bones) . 6; Chalk (carbonate ars. & 1 Silica (flint) . Gs Metallic ae de princes 1 IFOD): | 1. ° z Loss oii ls flee ‘¢The straw of barley contains the same ingredients, only in rather differ- ent proportions. ‘“¢ The solid excrements of a horse fed on hay, oats, and straw, contain, according to the analysis of M. Zierl, in 1000 parts :— Water .. : . 698 Picromel and salts 20 Bilious and extractive mat- 17 tery. = Sy eee Green matter, Ae 63 mucus, &e. 3 Vegetable fibre, and Te 999 mains of food t ‘¢ These, when burnt, yielded to the same chemist sixty parts by weight of ashes, which were composed of— Carbonate, sulphate, and 5 muriate of soda . . Carbonate and Phe 9 of lime Silicawdeaas - 467 DUN 205 DUN — -—}— Mr. Cuthbert Johnson, after giving| Water... . 96. these analyses in his work already} Urea, albumen, &c. 2.8 quoted, observes further, that, ‘‘the| Salt of potash, soda, lime, 1.9” feces of cattle fed principally on tur- nips have been analysed by M. Einhof; 100 parts evaporated to dryness yielded 28: parts of solid matter; the 71} parts lost in drying would consist principally of water and some ammoniacal salts. In half a pound, or 3,840 grains, he found 45 grains of sand; and by diffu- sing it through water, he obtained about 600 grains of a yellow fibrous matter, resembling that of plants, mixed with a very considerable quan- tity of slimy matter. By evaporating feces to dryness, and then burning them, he obtained an ash, which con- tained, besides the sand, the following substances :— Na ek, Sein caus whl ety NE Phosphate oflime . ... . 12.5 Magnesia eens 2. LECT EIG) MIDS: SO: ee gen ae Rte a Alumina, with some igeae 14 nese . Ieee ps. esil ya os top ORs Muriate and sulphate of 1.2 potash Sise gheahis t i «¢ The ingredients of which the urine and feces of cattle are composed, will of course differ slightly in different animals of the same kind, and accord- ing to the different food upon which they are fed; but this difference will not in any case be found very material. *¢ The excrements of the sheep have been examined by Block; according to him, every 100 Ibs. of rye-straw given as fodder to sheep yield 40 lbs. of excrements (fluid and solid); from 100 lbs. of hay, 42 lbs.; from 100 lbs. of potatoes, 13 lbs.; from 100 lbs. of green clover, 83 lbs.; and from 100 lbs. of oats, 49 lbs. of dry excrement. The solid excrements of sheep fed on hay, were examined by Zierl; 1,000 parts by weight being burned, yielded 96 parts of ashes, which were found to consist of— Carbonate, sulphate, and). muriate of soda : me Carbonate and phosphate of 20 Si yl anes ae tad FA ie , Silica 60 *¢One hundred parts of the urine of sheep kept at grass, contained— | and magnesia, &c. —Journ. Roy. Agr. Soc. There have been many arguments and much difference of opinion among cultivators with regard to the advan- tage of employing dung ina fresh or in a putrid state, and as is too often the case, both parties have run into ex- tremes, the one side contending for the propriety of employing it quite fresh from the farm-yard, the other contending that it cannot well be too rotten. The mode employed by Lord Leices- . ter, is the medium between these equal-- ly erroneous extremes. He found that the employment of the fresh dung cer- tainly made the dung go much farther ; but then a multitude of the seeds of various weeds were carried on to the land along with the manure. He has therefore since used his compost when only in a half putrefied state, (called short dung by farmers,) and hence the seeds are destroyed by the effects of the putrefaction, and the dung still ex- tends much farther than if suffered to remain until quite putrefied. Putrefac- tion cannot go on without the presence of moisture. Where water is entirely absent, there can be no putrefaction 5 and hence many farmers have adopted the practice of pumping the drainage of their farm-yards over their dung heaps ; others invariably place them in a low damp situation. This liquid portion cannot be too highly valued by the cultivator. The soil where a dunghill has lain in a field is always distin- guished by a rank luxuriance in the succeeding crop, even if the earth be- neath, to the depth of six inches, is removed and spread with the dunghill. The controversy, too, which once so keenly existed, as to the state of fer- mentation in which dung should be used on the land, has now pretty well subsided. it cannot be applied more advan- tageously than in as fresh a state as possible, consistent with the attain- ‘|ment of a tolerably clean husbandry, and the destruction of the seeds of weeds, grubs, &c., which are always more or less present in farm-yard dung. These are the only evils to be appre- There is no doubt but that - DUN 206 DUN — hended from the desirable employment of this manure in the freshest state ; for otherwise the loss of its most valu- able constituents commences as soon as fermentation begins. This was long since demonstrated by Davy, whose experiments I have often seen repeated and varied. He says, ‘I filled a large retort capable of containing three pints of water with some,hot fermenting manure, consisting principally of the litter and dung of cattle. I adapted a small receiver to the retort, and con- nected the whole with a mercurial pneumatic apparatus, so as to collect the condensible and elastic fluids which might arise from the dung. The re- ceiver soon became lined with dew, and drops began in a few hours to trickle down the sides of it. Elastic fluid likewise was generated ; in three days thirty-five cubical inches had been formed, which when analyzed were found to contain twenty-one cubical inches of carbonic acid; the remainder was hydro-carburet, mixed with some azote, probably no more than existed in the common air in the receiver. The fluid matter collected in the re- ceiver at the same time amounted to nearly half an ounce. It had a saline taste and a disagreeable smell, and con- tained some acetate and carbonate of ammonia. Finding such products given off from fermenting litter, I introduced the beak of another retort filled with similar dung very hot at the time, in the soil amongst the roots of some grass in the border of a garden. In less than a week a very discernible effect was pro- duced on the grass, upon the spot ex- posed to the influence of the matter disengaged in fermentation; it grew with much more luxuriance than the grass in any other part of the gar- den.’’—Lectures. Nothing, indeed, appears at first sight so simple as the manufacture and col- lection of farm yard dung, and yet there are endless sources of error into which the cultivator is sure to fall, if he isnot ever vigilant in their management. The ’ Jate Mr. Francis Blake, in his valuable tract upon the management of farm- yard manure, dwells upon several of these; he particularly condemns the practice of keeping the dung arising from different descriptions of animals in separate heaps or departments, and applying them to the land without inter- mixture. ‘* It is customary,’ he adds, “to keep the fattening neat cattle in yards by themselves, and the manure thus produced is of good quality, be- cause the excrement of such cattle is richer than that of lean ones. Fattening cattle are fed with oil cake, corn, Swedish turnips, or some other food, and the refuse and waste of such food thrown about the yard increases the value; it also attracts the pigs to the yard. These rout the straw and dung about in search of grains of corn, bits of Swedish turnips, and other food; by which means the manure in the yard becomes more intimately mixed, and is proportionally increased in value. The feeding troughs and cribs in the yard should for obvious reasons be shifted frequently. *< The horse-dung,°? continues Blake, ‘¢is usually thrown out at the stable doors, and there accumulates in Jarge heaps. -It is sometimes spread a little about, but more generally not at all, unless where necessary for the conve- nience of ingress and egress, or perhaps to allow the water to drain away from the stable door. Horse-dung lying in heaps very soon ferments: and heats to an excess, the centre of the heap is charred or burned to a dry white sub- stance, provincially termed fire-fanged. Dung in this state loses from fifty to seventy-five per cent. ofits value. The diligent and attentive farmer will guard against such profligate waste of property by never allowing the dung to accumu- late in any considerabie quantity at the stable doors. The dung from the feed- ing hog-sties should also be carted and spread about the store cattle yard in the same manner as the horse-dung. ‘¢ The heat produced by the ferment- ation of the dung of different animals has been made the subject of repeated experiment. When the temperature of the air was 40°, that of common farm- yard dung was 70°; a mixture of lime, dung, and earth, 55° ; swine and fowl’s dung, 85°.2° — Farmer’s Magazine, Johnson’s Fertilizers. ‘* The quality of farm-yard compost naturally varies with the food of the animals by which it is made; that from the cattle of the straw-yard is decidedly the poorest, that from those fed on oil- cake, corn, or Swedes, the richest. Of stable dung, that from corn-fed horses is most powerful, from those subsisting DUR 207 ECH —_@—- on straw and hay the poorest; the difference between the fertilizing effects of the richest and the inferior farm-yard dung is much greater than is commonly believed; in many instances the dis- parity exceeds one-half; thus that pro- duced by cattle fed upon oil-cake is fully equal in value to double the quantity fed upon turnips. Hence the superior richness of the manure of fattening swine to that of pigs ina lean state, and the far superior strength of night-soil to any manure produced from merely vegetable food. Chemical ex- aminations are hardly necessary to prove these facts. Every farmer who has had stall-fed cattle will testify to their truth; every cultivator will readily acknowledge the superiority of ‘ town- made,’ that is, corn-produced stable dung, to that from horses fed only on hay and straw, and that night-soil is far superior in strength to either. The relative quantities employed by the cultivator betray the same fact, for on the soils where he applies twenty loads of good farm-yard compost per acre, he spreads not half that quantity of night- soil. The drainage from all manures should be scrupulously preserved, for the liquid or soluble portion constitutes their richest portion. The escape of their gaseous products during decom- position should also be checked as much as possible, for they contain ammonia, carbonic acid, &c., all abounding in constituents valuable as fertilizers..°—Johnson’s Farmer’s En- cyclop. DURANTA. Sevenspecies. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and eat. DUVALIA. Twelve species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and lime rubbish. DUVAUA. Four species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Common soil. DWARF FAN-PALM. Chamerops humilis. DWARF MOLY. Allium chame- moly. DWARF STANDARD is a fruit tree on a very short stem, with its branches unshortened and untrained. DYCKIA rariflora. Green-house herbaceous. Suckers. Sandy peat and loam. ous proportions :—Silica, or pure flint ; Alumina, or pure clay ; Lime, combined with carbonic acid in the state of chalk ; and Magnesia. See Soil. EARTHING-UP, or drawing the soil in a ridge to the stems of plants, is beneficial to fibrous-rooted plants, by reducing the distance from the surface of the extremities of the plant’s roots 5 by inducing the production of rootlets from the stem; and sheltering the winter standing crops, for the closer the foliage of these are to the earth the less is the reduction of heat from the latter, either by radiation or contact with the colder air. But to tuberous-rooted plants, as the potato, it is detrimental. In my experi- ments it reduced the produce one- fourth. Many farmers who cultivate the potato extensively, do so with the horse-hoe alone, no longer using the plough to earth-up, as was formerly the universal practice, and is now with those who never profit by experience. EARWIG. Forficula auricularis. This destroyer of the peach, apricot, plum, dahlia, pink and carnation, com- mits its ravages only at night, retiring during the day to any convenient shelter in the vicinity of its prey. Ad- vantage must be taken of this habit, and if small garden pots with a little moss within be inverted upon a stick, and pieces of the dry hollow stem of the sunflower, or Jerusalem artichoke, be placed in the neighbourhood of the fruits and flowers enumerated, many of the insects will resort thither, and may be shaken out and destroyed. As ear- wigs are winged insects, it is useless to guard the stems of plants in any mode. EBENUS. Two species. Green- house evergreens. Seed. Peat and loam. ECASTAPHYLLUM. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Rich loam. ECCREMOCARPUS longiflora. Green-house evergreen climber. Cut- tings. Sand, loam, and peat. ECHEVERIA. Seven species. Green-house and stove succulents. Cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. ECHINACEA. Six species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Light rich loam. ECHINOCACTUS. Sixty-one species. Stove evergreen. Offsets. EARTHS. Every cultivated soil is| Sandy peat, and a little calcareous rub- mainly composed of four earths in vari- | bish. ECH 208 END es ECHINOPS. Sixteen species. Hardy| ELAODENDRON. Five species. herbaceous. Division. Common soil. ECHITES. Twenty-one species. Chiefly stove evergreen twiners. Cut- ings. Loam and peat. ECHIUM. Fifty-eight species. Hardy and green-house shrubs and an- nuals. Layers and cuttings, or seeds. Loam and peat. EDGING. This forthe kitchen-garden and all other places where neatness, not ornament, is the object, may consist of useful herbs, the strawberry &c. Asan ornamental edging nothing can compare with the dwarf Box, especially in Jight soils. On heavy low lands it suffers during winter and may, perhaps, be | totally destroyed; in such situations grass may be used, though it is trouble- | some to keep in order. iy EDGING KNIFE. This tool, fitted to a straight handle, is used for paring | house evergreen the edges of grass bordering walks, &c., and cutting the outlines of sods, | which may be then readily raised by the spade.—Rural Reg. EDWARDSIA. Six species. Half- hardy shurbs. Cuttings. Sandy peat. EGG-BEARER. Solanum origenum. EGG-SHELLS. See Animal Matters. EGLANTINE. See Sweet Briar. EGYPTIAN LOTUS. Nymphaea lotus. EGYPTIAN THORN. acia vera. EHRETIA. Eleven species. Stove evergreen shrubs and trees. Cuttings. Loam and peat. EKEBERGIA capensis. Green- house evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam and peat. EL/ZEAGNUS. Seven species. Hardy or green-house trees and shrubs, except E. latifolia, which is a stove shrub. Layers or cuttings. Light soil. ELAIS. Four species. Stove palms. Suckers. Rich sandy loam. ELA OCARPUS. Five species. Stove or green-house trees or shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat. . Green-house and_ stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat. ELAPHRIUM glabrum. Stove ever- - green tree. Cuttings. Peat and loam. ELATE sylvestris. A stove palm. Suckers. Rich loam. ELATER. See Wire-worm. ELDER (Sambucus). Common black elder (S. nigra), of which there are several varieties, viz., black-berried, white-berried, green-berried, parsley- leaved, gold-striped, silver-striped, and silver-dusted. ELEVATION. See Altitude. ELICHRYSUM. Forty-five species. Chiefly green-house evergreen shrubs and deciduous perennials. Cuttings. Peat and sandy loam. ELLIOTTIA racemosa. Half-hardy evergreen shrub. Layers. Sandy loam and peat. ELLEBOCARPUS oleraceus. Stove fern. Division. Loam. ; ELISENA longipetala. Stove bulb. Offsets. Sandy loam and leaf-mould. ELM (Ulmus). ELM BEETLE. See Scolytus. EMBLICA. ‘Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and sand. EMBOTHRIUM strobilinum. Green- shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat. ENCELIA. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam. ENDIVE (Cichorium endivia). Varieties. — The green-curled, the only one cultivated for the main crops, as it best endures wet and cold; the white-curled, chiefly grown for summer and autumn ; the broad-leaved, or Bata- vian, is preferred for soups and stews, but is seldom used for salads. Soil and situation.—Endive delights in a light, dry, but rich soil, dug deep, as well for the free admission of its tap- root as to serve as a drain for any super- abundant moisture. This should be especially attended to for the winter standing crops, for which, likewise, if the soil or substratum is retentive, it is best to form an artificial bed by laying a foot in depth of mould on a bed of brickbats, stones, &c., as excessive moisture, in conjunction with excessive cold, is in general fatal to this plant. The situation should be open, and free from the influence of trees. f 4 END 209 END ——h—~ Time and mode of sowing.—For a first crop about the middle of April, to be repeated in May, but only in small portions, as those which are raised be- fore June, soon advance to seed. To- wards the middle of this month the first main crop may be inserted; to be con- tinued in the course of July, and lastly early in August; and in this month the main plantation is made. The seed is*sown then in drills twelve inches apart, and about half an inch below the surface. The plants speedily make their appearance. When an inch in height they should be thinned to three or four inches apart: those taken away are too small to be of any service if pricked out. The bed must be kept clear ef weeds from the first appearance of the plants until they are removed. To promote their arrival at a fit size for performing this operation, water should be given occasionally in dry weather. When the larger seedlings have been transplanted, the smaller ones which remain may be cleared of weeds and have a gentle watering ; by which treat- ment, in twelve or fourteen days, they will have attained a sufficient size to afford a second successional crop; and, by a repetition of this management, in general a third. The plants are gene- rally fit for transplanting when of a month’s growth in the seed-bed; but a more certain criterion is, that when of five or six inches’ height they are of the most favourable size. Planting.—They must be set in rows twelve or fifteen inches apart each way: the Batavian requires the greatest space. Some gardeners recommend them to be set in trenches or drills three or four inches deep. This mode is not detri- mental in summer and dry weather; but in winter, when every precaution is to be adopted for the prevention of decay, it is always injurious. Water must be given moderately every evening uutil the plants are esta- blished, after which it is not at all re- quisite, except in excessive and pro- tracted drought. Those which are left in the seed-bed, if the soil is at all fa- vourable, in general attain a finer growth than those that have been moved. In Novembersome plants that have attained nearly their full size may be removed to the south side of a slop- ing bank of dry light earth, raised one or two feet beliind: to be protected by 14 frames, mats, or thick coverings of lit- ter, during severe and very wet wea- ther; but to be carefully uncovered during mild dry days. The plants, in this instance, are not required to be further apart than six or eight inches. This plan may be followed in open days during December and January, by which means a constant supply may be ob- tained. Instead of being planted in the above manner on a terrace, it is some- times practised to take the plants on a dry day, and, the leaves being tied to- gether, to lay them horizontally in the earth down to the tip of the leaves; this accelerates the blanching, but otherwise is far more subject to failure. As the number necessary for a family is but small, but few should be planted at a time. Blanching. — About three months elapse between the time of sowing and the fitness of the plants for blanching. This operation, if conducted properly, will be completed in from ten to four- teen days in summer, or in three or four weeks in winter. To blanch the plants it is the most common practice to tie their leaves together, to place tiles or pieces of board upon them, or to cover them with garden-pots; whilst some recommend their leaves to be tied together, and then to be covered up to their tips with mould, making it rise to an apex, so as to throw off excessive rains. All these methods succeed in dry seasons; but in wet ones the plants, treated according to any of them, are liable to decay. The one which succeeds best in all seasons is to fold the leaves round the heart as much as possible in their natu- ral position; and being tied together with a shred of bass-mat, covered up: entirely with coal-ashes in the form of a cone, the surface being rendered firm and smooth with the trowel. Sand will do, but ashes are equally unretentive of moisture, whilst they are much supe- rior in absorbing heat, which is so be- neficial in the hastening of the process. If the simple mode of drawing the leaves together is adopted to effect this etiolation, they must be tied very close, and, in a week after the first tying, a second ligature must be passed round the middle of the plant to prevent the heart-leaves bursting out. A dry after- noon, when the plants are entirely free from moisture, should be selected, ENG 210 ENG —_¢——_ whichever mode is adopted for this} 2. The barrow watering-engine (Fig. concluding operation. . _| 38) is represented in the figure below. A very excellent mode is to spread | It will throw the jet of water to a dis- over the surface of the bed about an| tance of forty or fifty feet, or somewhat inch in depth of pit-sand, and covering | less if a rose is upon the end of the de- each plant with a small pot made of livery-pipe. It holds from twenty to earthenware, painted both within and thirty gallons of water; but may be on the outside to exclude the wet—that made, with a leather-hose attached, to worst hindrance of blanching. Toavoid| communicate with a pond or other this, the pots should be taken off daily | reservoir of water. for a quarter of an hour, and their in- Fic. 38 _~¢ sides wiped dry. Acommon garden-pot ae See will do if the hole be closely stopped; but a sea-kale pot in miniature, is to be preferred; and if made of zinc or other metal, it would be better, because _ not porous and admissive of moisture.— Johnson’s Gard. Almanack. To obtain Seed. — The finest and soundest plants should be selected of the last plantation, and which most agree with the characteristics of the respect- ive varieties. For a.small family three or four plants of each variety will pro- duce sufficient. These should be taken in March, and planted beneath a south fence, about a foot from it and eighteen inches apart. As the flower-stem ad- vances it should be fastened toa stake; or, if they are placed beneath palings, by a string, to be gathered Fig.37. as the seed upon it ripens: for if none are gathered until the whole plant is changing colour, the first ripened and best seed will have scattered and be lost, so wide is the difference of time between the seve- ral branches of the same plant ripening their seed. Each branch must be laid, as it is cut, upon a cloth in the sun; and when per- fectly dry, the seed beaten out, cleansed, and stored. ENGINE. This name is applied to many contriv- ances for supplying water to plants. 1.. The pump-syringe, or syringe-engine, (Fig. 37), can be supplied with water from a common bucket, from which it sucks the water through a perforat- ed base. The handle is sometimes made to work like that of the common pump. ] aa I a fis i sit) His hi, i Bl rb) 3. The curved barrel-engine (Fig. 39) is excellent; for the barrel, piston-rods, &c., being so constructed as to be turned on a lathe, they are so accurate that there is the least possible loss of power, either from unnecessary friction or from an imperfect vacuum. Fig. 39. Another garden engine of still greater power, is illustrated by the annexed drawing (Fig. 40) ; it is somewhat more costly than those in general use, but may be used for a variety of purposes, and in some cases might be used to ENK ENT protect property from fire. They are of various patterns and power. Some of them, worked by a single arm, cast the water fifty to sixty feet high. ENKIANTHUS. Two species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. ENTADA. Five species. Stove ever- green climbers. Cuttings. Loam and eat. ENTELEA. © Two species. house evergreen shrubs. Loam and sandy peat. ENTRANCES. Upon these parts of a residence, which should give a first and appropriate impression, Mr. Whate- ley has these just remarks: “¢The road which leads up to the door of the mansion may go off from it in an equal angle, so that the two sides shall exactly correspond; and certain ornaments, though detached, are yet rather within the province of architec- ture than of gardening ; works of sculp- ture are not, like buildings, objects familiar in scenes of cultivated nature ; but vases, statues, and termini, are usual appendages to a considerable edi- fice : as such, they may attend the man- sion, and trespass a little upon the gar- den, provided they are not carried so far into it as to lose their connexion with the structure. The platform and the road are also appurtenances to the house; -all these may, therefore, be adapted to its form; and the environs will thereby acquire a degree of regu- Green- Cuttings. larity; but to give it to the objects of nature, only on account of their prox- imity to others which are calculated to receive it, is, at the best, a refinement. ‘“¢ Upon the same principles regu- larity has been required in the approach; and an additional reason has been as- signed for it, that the idea of a seat is thereby extended to a distance; but that may be by other means than by an avenue ; a private road is easily known; if carried through grounds, or a park, it is commonly very apparent; even in a Jane, here and there a bench, a paint- ed gate, a small plantation, or any other little ornament, will sufficiently denote it. If the entrance only be marked, simple preservation will retain the im- pression along the whole progress; or it may wind through several scenes dis- tinguished by objects, or by an extraor- dinary degree of cultivation: and then the length of the way, and the variety of improvements through which it is conducted, may extend the appearance of domain and the idea of a seat, beyond the reach of any direct avenue. A narrow vista, a mere line of perspective, be the extent what it may, will seldom compensate for the loss of that space which it divides, and of the parts which it conceals. «¢ Regularity was, however, once thought essential to every garden and every approach; and it yet remains in many. Itis still a character denoting the neighbourhood of a gentleman’s EPA habitation ; and an avenue, as an object in a view, gives to a house, otherwise inconsiderable, the air of a mansion. Buildings which answer one another at the entrance of an approach, or on the sides of an opening, have a similar effect ; precincts of a seat from the rest of the country. Some pieces of sculpture, also, such as vases and termini, may perhaps now and then be used to extend the appearance of a garden beyond its limits, and to raise the mead in which they are placed above the ordinary im- provements of cultivated nature. At other times they may be applied“as ornaments to the most polished lawns; the traditional ideas we have conceived of Arcadian scenes correspond with such decorations; and sometimes a solitary urn, inscribed to the memory of a per- son now no more, but who once fre- quented the shades where it stands, is an object equally elegant and interest- ing. ‘— Gard. Chron. FERRARIA. Eight species. Green- house and hardy bulbs. Offsets and seeds. Sandy Joam and peat. FICARIA. Three species. Hardy tubers, tubers, shaded. Common soil. FICUS. Fig Tree. Seventy-seven species. Chiefly green-house and stove evergreen trees and shrubs. Cuttings. Light rich loam. FIELDIA australis. Green-house evergreen creeper. Cuttings. Loam and eat. FIG MARIGOLD. Mesembryanthe- mum. FIG. Ficus carica. Varieties for open walls, and time of ripening .—Brown Ischia, Large White Genoa, and Green Ischia, (August.) Brown Naples, Brunswick, White Mar- seilles, (September.) Black Provence, Yellow Ischia, and Genoa, (October.) Propagation may be effected by seeds, and cross impregnation to get varieties; the seedlings will be pro- ductive when six years old; by layers, suckers, slips, and grafting, but by cuttings is the mode usually practised. These must be of young wood, about eight inches long, with two inches of old wood attached. Plant in October, in a sandy loam and warm situation, the surface covered with ashes, to ex- clude the frost and drought. ‘* The tops of the cuttings will require the additional protection of haulm or litter during winter; give water and keep clear of weeds during summer, and by the following autumn the plants will be fit to be transplanted into nursery rows, where they must again be mulched at root, and protected at top. They re- quire no pruning farther than to rear them with a single stem, and keep their heads ofa regular shape; the second or third year they may be removed to where they are finally to remain. Cut- tings of roots readily make plants, but the process is too slow for general use, and the plants so produced are not likely to come so soon into bearing as by the layers or cuttings.’’—Loudon’s Enc. Gard. Cuttings of the shoots may be of well-ripened wood, which Mr. Mark- ham, of Hewell Gardens, says may be also ‘‘ taken off in spring and potted singly in small pots; plunging them in a warm cucumber-frame, and re-potting them two or three times, they will attain a large size in one summer. With these cuttings, as with the trees at all ages, bottom heat and water is every thing.”»—Gard. Chron. Soil—Mr. Markham says, ‘* The best soil for this fruit is sandy maiden loam and turf mixed together, without manure of any kind, over-luxuriance being a great evil in their culture. I would advise all who are about to plant a fig wall, to form the borders about three feet deep, having a good drainage of any rough material. At the front of this, a wall fourinches and a half thick, running parallel with the other should be brought up to within two inches of the surface, the intervening space being walled across so that each tree may have its own division. This prevents over-luxuriance, and causes them to fruit more freely. Any old trees that are growing strong and that do not bear well, might have their roots pruned back in autumn and walled in as above described. . By doing this early it would afford the tree time to provide itself with new feeders, and by opening a trench in the front of the wall, about the end of March or beginning of April, and applying a pretty brisk lining of leaves and long litter fora few weeks, it would greatly assist the crop for that season, and establish the trees for the following. Water occasionally with soft water ; and, after the fruit has attained three-fourths ofits size, two or three good waterings of liquid manure will assist materially in bringing the fruit to a large size.??—Gard. Chron. Good drainage is also very important; an excess of root-moisture making the plants over-luxuriant. Standards must have a single stem, and require no other pruning than to remove irregular growths, suckers, and decayed branches. The soil should be forked over annually, and kept con- stantly freed from weeds by the hoe. | Wall-trees and Espaliers.—Mr. Mark- ham says that of these, ‘* The requisite pruning is merely to thin the branches where they are too thick, and to admit plenty of light and air. The points of any branches that indicate too luxuriant a growth are pinched out. The tree will show how young bearing wood is procured, when the branches get too long, or begin to have a naked appear- FIG 225 FIG ——_—_ — ance. For covering the fig in winter, a double thickness of old mats is advis- able, with a little mulching; a wide coping on the wall is very essential, and a canvas covering drawn over them at night in the early part of their growth is of great benefit to them.??—Gard. Chron. , The Mode of Bearing is very pecu- liar, and influences the pruning, or rather non-pruning, which is to be pre- ferred. The fig, observes Mr. Loudon, ‘¢ bears, and in warmer climates brings to maturity in every year, two succes- sive and distinct crops of fruit, each crop being produced on a distinct set of shoots. The shoots formed by the first or spring sap put forth figs at every eye as soon as the sap begins to flow again in July and August. These figs (which form the second crop of the year) ripen, in their native climate, during the course of the autumn; but rarely if ever come to perfection in England; where, though they cover the branches in great abundance at the end of that season, they perish and fall off with the first severe frosts of winter. The shoots formed by the second flow of sap, commonly called midstfmmer shoots, put forth figs in like manner at every eye, but not until the first flow of sap in the following spring. These last mentioned figs, which form the first crop of each year, ripen in warmer climates during the months of June and July, but not in this country before September or October.’?—Enc. Gard. Fig-House.—If a hot-house be de- voted to this fruit, as it well deserves, good proportions, according to Mr. Markham, are ‘ thirty-three feet long, fourteen feet wide, and eleven feet high at the back, trellised with wire two inches from the wall. The trees on this wall to be fan-trained ; the roots walled in as recommended for the open wall, excepting that the spaces are to be narrower, being two feet wide and two and a half deep; the path leading through the house to rest on this parti- tion wall. Between this path and the front, may be a border for small stand- ards and circular-trained trees, ranging from three to five feet high, all walled in with rough stones, for the same pur- pose as already stated. The sorts may be the Nerii; Brown Ischia; large White Genoa; and Kennedy’s Fig, but the greater part the Nerili. Prune in 15 . the latter part of February; but this is a very trifling operation where they have been properly attended to in sum- mer, being only to cut out here and there a superfluous shoot, or to shorten one back to any naked or unfurnished part, in order to procure a supply of young shoots. Then have the whole forked over between the trees, giving them a good watering. Small fires are then to be lighted, keeping the tem- perature at 50°, and syringing morning and evening with tepid water. Air is to-be given plentifully in fine weather, and when the fruit begins to grow, the temperature raised to 53°, then to 60°, and so on progressively about the same asfor vines. For the first six or seven weeks water only in such quantities to keep the soil moderately moist, but afterwards more freely. «¢ When the fruit is about half grown, commence watering freely every morn- ing, and generally about twice a week, with liquid manure. As soon as the young shoots have attained the length of four or five inches, their points are to be pinched out; this shoot is the ‘ second crop wood? for the latter part of summer or autumn, according as the forcing was commenced early or late. During the growth of the second crop of fruit, the tree produces a second shoot from three to six inches long, which, when properly ripened, contains the crop in the embryo state through the winter for the following spring. A short time before the first crop of fruit is ripe, the watering overhead is dis- continued and abundance of air given. As soon as practicable, the watering overhead is to be resumed in every part of the house where the fruit is not ap- proaching maturity. The succession of fruit generally lasts about four months. ‘¢ The winter management is merely to keep the borders moderately dry, and to prevent frost from entering.??— Gard. Chron. Forcing in Pots.—‘‘ For this pur- pose,”? says Mr. Markham, “ the plants should be examined as early in the au- tumn or winter as possible, and those plants that have got their roots much matted together should have them re- duced, and potted in sweet maiden loam, ready for the spring-forcing in January or Febraary, as they may be wanted. The pots should be plunged ina pelespes tan or leaf bed, either in FIL 226 FIL —4~——_ a pit or forcing-house. If neither of these can be had, prepare a small bed of leaves and manure, and place a deep frame over it, plunging the plants to such a depth as to enable the roots to have 8° or 10° more heat than the tops. By doing this the roots are put in action first, which causes the embryo fruit to come forth in such a strong healthy manner as will ensure a good crop. After the fruit is fairly shown, the plants may then be removed to any forcing- house where they can have plenty of light and air. If they can be plunged in gentle heat, so much the better. It should always be borne in mind that the fig, in its growing state, is almost an aquatic, therefore little danger is to be apprehended from over-watering, but serious mischief may arise from not attending to this; for if ever the soil gets thoroughly dry when the fruit is far advanced, some evil will be sure to result.2,—Gard. Chron. The Temperature borne by the fig ad- vantageously is very high. Even when ranging from 90° to 110° during the day, and never lower at night than 70°, though some varieties grow too lux- uriantly, yet the Large White ripened both its spring and autumn produce, and Mr. Knight thus obtained from the same plants eight crops in twelve months. FILBERT. Corylus avellana. Varieties —Frizzled, great bearer. Red (C. tubulosa), pellicle of kernel pink, flavour excellent. White, pellicle white, flavour good. Cosford, great bearer, good; shell very thin. Down- ton, large, square. Cob Nut. Propagation.—This is done by plant- ing the nuts, by layers, suckers from the root; and by grafting and budding. By the Nuts.—This should be done in October ; but if postponed until spring, preserve the nuts in sand, and in Feb- ruary plant them in drills near two inches deep. The plants will appear in six or eight weeks, which, when a year old, plant out in nursery-rows, and there train them two or three years. In raising these trees from the nut, the sorts are not to be always depended on, for, like other seedling trees, they often vary, so that the most certain method to continue the respective sorts is by layers. By Layers is one of the most certain methods of continuing the respective varieties distinct; and this is a very easy and expeditious method of propa- gation ; for every twig layed will readily srow: therefore, in autumn or winter, let some of the lower branches that are well furnished with young shoots be pegged down in the ground; then lay all the young shoots in the earth, with their tops out, every one of which will root, advance in length, and be fit to transplant by autumn following, when they should be separated, and planted in nursery rows, two feet asunder, and trained as observed of the seedlings; but when any considerable quantity are to be raised this way, it is eligible to form stools for that purpose, by pre- viously, a year before, heading-down some trees near the ground, to throw out a quantity of shoots near the earth, convenient for laying for that use an- nually. Suckers arising from the roots of trees raise by either of the above me- thods, if taken up in autumn, winter, or spring, with good fibres, will also grow, form proper plants, and produce the same sort of fruit as their parent plant ; and suckers of these may also be used for the same purpose. By grafting and budding. — These methods have also the same effect as layers of continuing any particular va- riety with certainty, and the operation is to be performed in the usual way on stocks of any of the varieties of this ge- nus.—(Abercrombie.) “The season for planting is autumn or spring ; or any interval in mild wea- ther from October till the beginning of March. Allot detached standards not less than ten and thence to twenty feet distance, to have room to branch out in full heads.?*—-Loudon, Enc. Gard. Sotl.—‘‘A hard loam of some depth, on a dry subsoil, which dress every year; as the filbert requires a consider- able quantity of manure.?? — Loudon, Enc. Gard. . Pruning and Culture.—Mr. R. Scott says, ‘* The plants should be trained with single stems to the height of a foot or so; then permitted to branch into a symmetrical head, rather open in the middle, and not of greater height than aman can conveniently reach from the ground, to perform the necessary opera- tions of pruning and gathering. ‘¢ The proper time for pruning is in the spring, when the male blossoms are FIN 227 FLO ed open, as then the shaking of the trees, by the act of pruning, assists in the dif- | fusion of the pollen. The young shoots | should be shortened to about half their | length; and it is best to cut to a bud that shows a female blossom. All suckers should be carefully removed. Formerly it was the practice to train the branches to nearly a horizontal po- sition, which may still be seen in many | old plantations; but experience has shown that the trees produce equally well, and as good nuts, by allowing them to take a more natural form. By. way of manurin some. cultivators b) throw off the surface soil two or three | feet wide round the stem of the tree, and into this basin the small prunings, leaves, &c., are put and dug in.”’— Gard. Chron. . Preserving.—“< The easiest and best method is to gather them when quite dry, and stow them away in large garden pots, or other earthen vessels, sprinkling a little salt amongst them throughout the whole mass, which preserves the husks from getting mouldy and rotten ; the pots should then be turned bottom upwards on boards, and buried in the ground, or kept air-tight by some other means. Stoneware jars, with lids, might be advantageously used for this pur- pose. and nuts of any kind will keep a long time in this way.??—Gard. Chron. Insects. See Curculio and Aphis. FINOCHIO or AZOREAN FENNEL (Anethum azoricum), does not usually succeed in this country. Neither is it in much esteem here, being agreeable to few palates. It is served with a dressing like salads. Soil and Situation.—For the first crop a rich light soil on a moderate hot-bed must be selected; for the succeeding sowings a more retentive one, but for the last two a return must be had toa drier and a warmer situation. A small bed will be required only at each sowing ;, one twenty feet by four is suf-: ficient for the largest family. Time and Mode of Sowing.—From the beginning of March until the close of July, at intervals of a month, for after attaining its full growth, it im- mediately advances for seed. The seed is sown in drills two feet asunder, to remain; scattered thinly, that is, about two inches apart, and about half an inch below the surface. The first sowings must be in a slight hot-bed, and under |a frame. The seedlings must be small- hoed, to kill the weeds, from which they should be kept completely clear through- out their growth; but at first only thin to three or four inches asunder, as it cannot thus early be determined which will be the most vigorous plants. After the lapse of another month they may be finally thinned to seven or eight inches distance from each other. Moderate waterings are required throughout their growth during dry weather; and in the meridian of hot days the beds are ad- vantageously shaded, until after the plants are well up. When of advanced growth, about ten weeks after coming up, the stems must be earthed up to the height of five or six inches, to blanch for use, which will be effected in ten or fourteen days. In the whole about twelve or fourteen weeks elapse be- tween the time of sowing and their be- ing fit for use. In autumn, if frosty mornings occur, they should have the protection of some litter or other light covering. To obtain Seed.—The seed coming from Italy is generally worthless, and in this country it is saved with difficulty, the plants of the last sowings, if left, being killed by the winter; and if some of the earliest are allowed to remain, they never ripen until late in the year, and are often killed by early severe frosts. FIR. See Pinus and Conifere. ‘FISH. See Animal Matters. ' FLACOURTIA. Eight species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat. FLAKE, is the term by which a car- nation is distinguished that has two colours only, and these extending through the petals. FLAX-STAR. Phormium Linum- stellatum. — FLORISTS’? FLOWERS are those which, by their beauty or fragrance, power to produce permanent varieties, and facility of cultivation, are so largely in demand as to render them especially worthy of cultivation as an article of commerce. Mr. Glenny has justly enumerated the necessary characteristics of a florist’s flower to be — 1st. The power to be perpetuated and increased by slips and other modes independent of its seed. Qdly, the power to produce new varie- ties from seed, capable, like their parent, ‘FLO 228 FLO a of being perpetuated ; and 3dly, it must possess sufficient interest and variety to be grown in collections. At present the chief florists’ flowers are the Amaryllis, Anagallis, Anemone, Auricula, Calceolaria, Carnation, Chrys- anthemum, Cineraria, Crocus, Dahlia, Fritillary, Fuchsia, Gladiolus, Hyacinth, Hydrangea, Ixia, Iris, Lily, Lobelia, Narcissus, Pansy, Peony, Pelargonium, Petunia, Phlox, Pink, Polyanthus, Ra- nunculus, Tulip, Tuberose, Verbena. In the United States Florists’ flowers are,as such, unknown. We have many amateurs, but not in sufficient number to create the emulation which exists in Great Britain, where thousands rival each other in the culture of flowers of their peculiar fancy—not for profit, but enjoyment and relaxation from the toil of the work-shop, or the mine. FLOWER. See Bloom. FLOWER FENCE. Poinciana. FLOWERING ASH. Ornus. FLOWER OF JOVE. Lychnis flos Jovis. FLOWER GARDEN, is that portion of the ground in the vicinity of the residence, disposed in parterres and borders, tenanted by flowers and flower- ing shrubs, and among walks and lawns, so that the occupiers of the house may have ready access to what is so beau- tiful in form, colour, and fragrance. Under the title Pleasure Ground, the portions of ornamented garden more distant from the house are considered. Aspect.—The flower garden should encompass every side of the house upon which a window opens that is frequent- ed by the master or his friends, whether in parlour or bed-room. ‘The aspect of the flower garden, therefore, must vary; but that which is best, because most favourable to flowers, is the south, south-eastern, and south-western sides of the residence; and it is usual to ar- range it so that the kitchen garden is im- mediately beyond it. Variety of aspect secures a succession of flowering in the same kinds. Nodirections can be given as to the appropriate size, for, if the proprietor delights in flowers, there is no reason why his parterres should not be large, though his villa be small. A very common proportion for a smal] cottage is, the flower garden being one- fourth the size of the kitchen garden. Soil_—Any fertile light soil is pro- pitious, for this can be altered easily to suit any flowers. The most intractable are clay and gravel. The first is forever sodden with wet, or baked hard; and the latter is hungry, and burnt up in summer. Arrangement.—Mr. Loudon says,— ‘‘Shelter is equally requisite for the flower as for the kitchen garden, and where naturally wanting, is to be pro- duced by the same means, viz., plant- ing. The plantations, except on the north, or very exposed points, should not be of the tallest kinds of trees. A few elegant shrubs, and one or two trees, may be scattered through the scene, either in the dug compartments, or in the turf glade, for the purpose of shelter and shade as well as ornament; but in general, much of either of the two former qualities are highly injuri- ous, both to the culture of flowers and the thick closeness of turf; sometimes an evergreen hedge will produce all the shelter requisite, as in small gardens composed of earth and gravel only ; but where the scene is large and composed of dug compartments, placed on lawn, the whole may be surrounded by an irregular border of flowers, shrubbery, and trees.”— Enc. Gard. All this is excellent, and I will only add these general additional rules:— always plant in masses, and with due attention to the harmony and contrast of colours and forms. Fig. 45. FLOWER GATHERER (Fig. 45), is a pair of scissors and pincers com- bined; they are of great advantage in gathering roses and other flowers which have thorny stems, as the flower cut by the scissors, is held fast by the part that acts as pincers.—Rural Reg. FLOWER POTS are of various sizes and names :— In.diam. In. Lindley at top. deep. Thomb ‘pots 9.2. ee are, inside . “A Sixties (60s) y : pene 5 ee ee 3 Forty-eights (48s) ...-- 229 FLO ———f Thirty-twos 6 (32s) Twenty-fours Peas) ss nse Sz Stale aa 8 Sixteens (16s). 92-26-29 .<.6/9 Twelves(12s). 112 ...10 .... 11 Set Oh rae s) «4\-O Bamina(esye ce 12) si VA) . 28 12 Sixes (6s) A Te: Waters 8 (Re Hours tansy... 1D ok oe 18) 5 he 1D Mimms(2s). niin 18. 6 14 « acer 1S Dr. Lindley has proposed a very judicious change in the nomenclature of flower pots, by suggesting that they should be called according to their great- est diameter. At present the words ‘¢Fours,”? *¢ Sixes,?? &c., intend no more than that there are so many to the cast, a piece of information conveying nothing worth knowing:—but by the new nomen- clature, *‘ Highteens,”? will be pots of eighteen inches in diameter; ‘ Fif- teens,” fifteen inches, and so on; it occupies. the third column in the pre- ceding table. The above are about the sizes in inches, for at each pottery they rather differ in size, and none of the pots shrink exactly alike during the burning. At some of the country potteries, also, the gradation and size are some- what different. Thus, at Mr. Paul’s Pottery, near Fareham, Hants, the sizes are the following: In. diam. In. at top. deep. Thimblesare,inside. 2 ... 2 Miler ses pA Gh hielo) Ei ge OD Seventy-twos..... Die 34 Sites) phil key ss.0i8s £ 4 Forty-eights .....- AL 5 Thirty-twos ..... 9) ahrlG Twenty-fours 6 yk SIMtGGHSi she ci as 2% qe Bers: Dywelvespie wis wg is 8. aD Ese htaiesiiciievcys aes ADA acces oY SimeSines seis aie he), cots 112 False PGES ecole) se pati Bae 14 14 "DWOs sions | aia! nee 16 15 Thimbles are sometimes called ‘small. nineties,’? and thumbs, ‘large nine- ties.?? The Philadelphia potters have long pursued the plan proposed by Dr. Lind- ley, and those at distant points who may desire to order, have only to express the size in inches, i. e., the diameter at top. The form and material also vary. Mr. Beck makes them very successful- ly of slate; and the prejudice against glazed pots is now exploded. It was formerly considered important to have the pots made of a material as porous as possible; but a more misera- ble delusion never was handed down untested from one generation to an- other. Stoneware and chinaware are infinitely preferable, for they keep the ~ roots more uniformly moist and warm. Common garden pots if not plunged, should be thickly painted. Mr. W. P. Ayres recommends large pots to be employed, and there is no doubt that this is a system much abridging the gardener’s labour; but as with due care smal] pots will produce magnificent specimen plants, I cannot recommend an adoption of large pots, ensuring as they do such an immense sacrifice of room in the hot and green-houses. Cap- tain Thurtell, the most successful of growers of the Pelargonium, never employs pots larger than twenty-fours. It is usual to have saucers in which to place flower pots when in the house, and so far as preventing stains and the occurrence of dirt, they are deserving adoption; but as to their being used for applying water to plants, they are worse than useless. The great difficulty in pot-cultivation is to keep the drainage regular, and no more effective pre- ventive of this could be devised than keeping a pot in a saucer containing water. No plan could be invented more .contrary to nature; for we all know that she supplies moisture to the surface of the soil, and allows it to descend, thus supplying the upper roots first. To facilitate draining, and yet to retain the tidi- ness secured by the saucer, Mr. Hunt has had flowerpots made with elevations, on which the pots are placed. (Fig. 46.) But this is not the only advantage de- rivable from them. They prevent the entry of worms, may be employed with common stands, allow a current of air to pass beneath them, and their form is elegant. 2 Mr. Brown (Fig. 47) has proposed a pot with hollow sides, the vacuity to be filled with water through a hole in the rim, or left empty, as occasion re- quires. The water, he considers, will Fig. 46. eS i FLO 230 FLO pa 8 prevent the plants suffering from want of moisture; and when empty, the roots will be pre- served from being killed by evapora- tion. But surely applying the water to the sides will be an extra induce- ment for the roots to gather there, an effect most de- sirable to avoid, and wetting the outsides of the pot is a very doubtful mode of preventing the reduction of tempera- ture. Fig. 47. Saul’s Fountain Flower Pot (Fig. 48), seems open to the same objec- tions, with the ad- ditiona! disadvan- tages of not being easily drained, and being more ex- pensive and cum- bersome. The water also is forced in at the bottom of the pot, contrary to the course of nature in applying moisture to plants. ‘* An outer basin is made on the bottom of the pot, to which the water enters at a, and is carried round the potin the basin, there being two or three holes through the pot’s bottom bbb. By these means the water is drawn up from the basin by the roots of the plants (!) or, if it should be desirable to prevent it from being drawn up, the exterior ori- fices of the holes, which open into the basin or saucer, may be closed(!) The fountain is supplied with water by taking out the stopper c, the entrance into the basin at a, being at that moment closed ; and as soon as the water runs over atc, the cork or stopper is put in, and the stopper at a removed.?>—Gard. Mag. March, 1843, 136. Mr. Stephens’ Flower Pot (Fig. 49) is intended to supply | water to the plant where it is most wanted, and to pro- tect it at the same time from slugs and other creeping in- sects, which will not pass over the water between the two rims.—Ibid. | Mr. Rendle, the intelligent proprie-| tor of the Plymouth Nursery, proposed to improve the drain- age of pots, by ele- vating and piercing their bottoms. This, and Mr. Brown’s, suggested to me that of which Fig. 50 is a section. It is merely two pots, one fitting within another, having its bottom in- dented and pierced as proposed by Mr. Rendle, but not touching the outer pot by half an inch all round. This is a most effectual form to secure drain- age, and to prevent the evaporation from the sides of the inner pot, the interven- ing stratum of confined air being a bad conductor of heat. It has the merit too of cheapness.—Johnson’s Gardene?’s Almanack. FLOWER STAGES are made for the exhibition of flowers at shows, in the green-house, and elsewhere. The fol- lowing are some very judicious obser- vations on the subject: —‘* The first object in the construction of stages should be to have them so constructed and situated as to afford facilities for grouping plants; the second should be to give plants more the appearance of growing in borders, than upon artificial structures; and the third to keep the pot out of sight. This is requisite for two reasons; first, because they are no ornament, and secondly, thatit is always desirable to protect the plant from being scorched by exposure to the sun. It is also desirable to adopt another mode of construction, for the purpose of giving plants that aspect which is most suited to their habits; and therefore, instead of placing the stages from the front to the back of the house, as is generally the case, I would place them in groups of stages, thus producing an effect similar to the borders in a well-arranged flower garden. ‘*The spectators in their progress from group to group would be attracted by the separate display in each, instead of having their attention drawn away by a whole blaze of beauty at once. ‘*The accompanying drawings (Fig. 51) represent the manner in which I propose that such stages as have been described should be constructed and placed in any floricultural building. The ground plan represents part of the floor FLO of a house, nineteen feet by thirteen, on which are placed twelve stages, and three vases, (D D D) basins, or'any other suitable ornamental article, with a gang- way betwixt them three feet wide. ‘‘The plan also shows sections of three different modes of constructing the stages, and the position of the pots in each; all the stages stand upon stone _ tables, resting upon brick piers, the top of each table being two feet two inches above the level of the floor. ‘*In the stage (A) there are no shelves, the pots being plunged into cylinders (made of the same material as flower pots) standing upon the tables, as shown by the dotted lines; the space all round them being filled with compost level with the rim of each series of pots. The object of this plan is to afford op- portunities of planting various creepers round each of the potted plants, for which there will be plenty of room when they stand twelve inches apart from stem to stem. The pots are sup- FLO posed to rest by their rims upon the edge of the cylinder, and may of course be removed with the greatest facility. “In the, centre stage (B), the sup- porters stand directly upon the table, and are connected to it, the space be- tween each being made water-tight, and filled up solid to within half an inch of the bottom of the pot. If an inch deep of water is poured in this space, the pot will be immersed half an inch; a small hole in the side will regulate the height of the water line, and another in the bottom will draw off the water when it requires changing. This mode of construction may be adopted for such plants as need large supplies of water. ‘¢ The stage (C) is supposed to have shelves pierced with holes to receive © the pots, which rest upon their rims. The stages in my little green-house are so fitted up, and have been by many practical men, who prefer this plan of plunging the pots into the stages to the FLU 232 FOR is old one of setting them upon the shelves. The fronts of the stone tables may be variously ornamented, those in one house having trellised panels, another having rusticated courses of brick or stone, while a third may be in imitation of rustic basket-work, and a fourth in rough courses like smal] rockeries, with spaces between for creepers, orchida- ceous, or any other plants best suited to the purpose. ‘¢ The dotted lines under the stage (B) will give some idea how this may be done; various other modes of ornament- ing may be adopted according to the particular taste of the individual. The vases, &c. (DDD) may be filled with climbers for the open space against the sides of the house, and with creepers to hang over the edges. The flower pots intended to be used in such stages as have been described, should be gauged before the plants are put into them, and all those rejected which do not fit the holes; the waste ones will answer for propagating, &c.?’—Gard. Chron. Mr. Ainger, also, makes these good suggestions : —‘‘ Stages are frequently formed of an equal or nearly equal series of ascents, in consequence of which the upper plants are by no means so well seen as the lower ones. The proper plan is to commence by small elevations, gradually increasing as the shelves recede from the eye. The lowest shelf to be eighteen inches from the floor, the first rise is six inches, the next nine, twelve, fifteen, eighteen, twenty-one, and so on. The upper shelves should also be broader than the lower for larger pots. The advantage of this arrangement as commanding a better view of the flowers is too obvious to need pointing out.?"—Gard. Chron. FLUES are pipes formed of brick or slate, for conducting heated air through stoves or other buildings where a high artificial temperature isdesired. It isa mode of heating nearly banished by the much more manageable and éffectual modes of heating by hot water; and flues have the additional disadvantages, that they require frequent sweeping, and that they emit a sulphurous fume that is injurious to plants and disagree- able to the frequenters of the structures so heated. This has been obviated by using Valencia slates in the place of bricks, yet flues under no circumstances can compare with either the pipe or tank system of hot water heating. When flues are employed they are constructed inside and near the walls of the build- ing; each flue eight or nine inches-wide in the clear, by two or three bricks on edge deep, ranged horizontally one over the other the whole length of the back wall, in three or four returns communi- cating with each other, continued also along the end and front walls in one or two ranges, to be used occasionally ; furnished with a regulator to slide open and shut as required, the whole pro- ceeding from the first lowermost flue, which communicates immediately from the furnace or fire-place behind either the back wall at one end, or in the back part of the end walls; or if very long stoves, of more than forty feet length, two fire-places are requisite, one at each end; each having its set of flues ranging halfway; each set of flues terminating in an upright chimney at the end of the back outside.—Hood on Warming, &c. Morris, Tasker and Morris of the Pascal Works near Philadelphia, have paid considerable attention to the con- struction of heating apparatus, whether for air or water. Those who desire such structures for green-houses, con- servatories, &c., may safely rely on their experience and probity. FLY. See Black Fly. FLY-WORT. Myanthus. FC:TIDA mauritiana. Stove ever- green tree. Cuttings. Turfy loam and peat. FONTANESIA phillyreoides. hardy deciduous shrub. cuttings. Common soil. FORCING is compelling culinary ve- getables to be edible, flowers to bloom, and fruits to ripen, at unnatural seasons, being the very contrary of the object for which our green-houses and hot-houses are constructed ; viz., to secure a tem- perature in which their tenants will be in perfection at their natural seasons. Under the heads of Hot-beds and of each particular plant will be found directions for forcing, and it will be sufficient here to coincide with Dr. Lindley in saying, that as forced flowers are always less beautiful and less fragrant; and forced vegetables and fruits less palatable and less nutritious than those perfected at their natural periods—it is desirable, at the very least, to devote as much effort and expense to obtain superior produce Half- Layers and FOR 233 FOU ae at accustomed times, as to the procuring | it unseasonably. Rarity is good, but excellence is best. FORE-RIGHT SHOOTS are the shoots which are emitted directly in’ front of branches trained against a wall, and consequently cannot be trained in without an acute bénding, which is al- ways in some degree injurious. FORK. This instrument is prefera- ble to the spade, even for digging over open compartments, for the soil can be reversed with it as easily as with the spade; the labour is diminished, and the pulverization of the soil is more ef- fectual. (See Digging.) For stirring the soil in plantations, shrubberies, and fruit borders, a two-pronged fork is often employed, but that with three prongs is quite as unobjectionable, and a multiplicity of tools is an expensive folly. Dr. Yelloly’s fork is certainly a good working implement. Its entire length, three feet three and a half inch- es; handle’s length, two feet two inch- es; its diameter one and a half inch; width of the entire prongs seven inches at the top; width at the points six inch- es; prongs thirteen and a half inches long, and at the top seven-eighths of an inch square, tapering to a point. The straps fixing the head to the handle are eleven inches long, two inches wide, and half an inch thick, feathering off ; weight of fork, eight pounds. Leaf-fork. Mr. Toward, of Bagshot Park, describes a very serviceable im- plement of this kind; he says—‘*‘ One person with this implement will take up with greater facility more leaves than two persons could do with any other tool. It is simply a large four-tined fork, made of wood, shod with iron; the tines are eighteen inches long, and are morticed into a head about seven- teen inches Jong, and one and a half inch by two and a quarter inches thick. The tines are one inch in width, and one anda half inch in depth at the head, gra- dually tapering to a point with a curve or bend upwards. The wood of which they are formed ought to be hard and tough ; either oak or ash will do, but the Robi- nia Psuedo-Acacia is preferable to ei- ther. The head should-be made of ash, with a handle of the same, and should be two feet four inches long. Its re- commendations are its size and light- ness, the leaves also do not hang upon it as on a common fork, the large size of the tines tearing them asunder.??— Gard. Chron. FORMICA. See Ant. FOTHERGILLA. Four species. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers and seed. Peat. This genus derives its name from John Fothergill, an eminent physician, born in Yorkshire in 1712. In 1762 he pur- chased an estate at Upton, and there founded an excellent botanic garden. FOUNTAINS surprise by their novel- ty, and the surprise is proportioned to the height to which they throw the wa- ter; but these perpendicular columns of water have no pretence to beauty. The Emperor fountain at Chatsworth is the most surprising in the world, for it tosses its waters to a height of two hun- dred and sixty-seven feet, impelled by a fall from a reservoir three hundred and eighty-one feet above the ajutage, or mouth of the pipe from which it rushes into the air. For an interesting description of this fountain and the grounds at Chatsworth, the seat of the Duke of Devonshire, see Downing’s “ Horticulturist.” The following are a few of the most powerful fountains in Europe :— Feet. The Emperor at Chatsworth, ‘ 267 heie@htvof yet 9 ee Wilhemhehe Fountain i 190 Hesse Cassel . A Fountain, St. Cloud . . . 160 Peterhott; Russia ss ose RO The old Chatsworth . . . 94 Versailles Sey. tie Se Mr. Paxton has stated that, ‘* What- ever be the direction of the jet, the dis- charge of water is always the same, provided that the altitude of the reser- voir be the same. This is a necessary consequence of the equal pressure of fluids, in all directions. Water spout- ing from small ajutage has sufficient velocity to carry it to the same height as the water in the reservoir; but it never attains entirely this height, being prevented by various concurring causes. Ist. Frictionin thetubes. 2d. Friction against the circumference of the aper- ture. 3d. The resistance of the air, its weight obstructing the rising column.”? —Gard. Chron. Mr. Loudon justly observes, that it is not easy to lay down data on this head ; if the bore of the ajutage be too smal}, the rising stream will want suffi- FOX 234 FRA —~o—. cient weight and power to divide the air, and so being dashed against it, will fall down in vapour or mist. If too large it will not riseat all. The length of pipe between the reservoir and the jet will also impede its rising in a slight degree, by the friction of the water on the pipe. This is estimated at one foot for every hundred yards from the reser- voir. The proportion which this author gives to the ajutages, relatively to the conducting-pipes, is one-fourth; and thus for a jet of four lines, a conduct- ing-pipe of an inch and a half diameter ; for a jet of six or seven lines, a con- ducting-pipe of two inches, and so on. From these data, the height of the foun- tain and the diameter of the conducting- pipe being given, the height to whicha jet can be forced can be estimated with tolerable accuracy, and the contrary. But where the pipes are already laid, and the power of the head, owing to intervening obstructions, is ‘not very accurately known, the method by trial and correction by means of a leaden nozzle, the orifice of which may be readily increased or diminished, will lead to the exact power under all the circumstances. Ajutages.—** Some are contrived so as to throw up the water in the form of sheaves, fans, showers, to support balls, &c. Others to throw it out horizontally, or in curved lines, according to the taste of the designer; but the most usual form is a simple opening to throw the spout or jet upright. The grandest jet of any is a perpendicular column is- suing from a rocky base, on which the water falling produces a double effect both of sound and visual display. A jet rising from a naked tube in the mid- dle of a basin or canal, and the waters falling on its smooth surface, is unna- tural without being artificially grand.” —Gard. Enc. Drooping fountains, or such as bub- bling from their source trickle over the edge of rocks, shells, or vases, combin- ing the cascade with the fountain, are capable of much greater beauty. FOXGLOVE. Digitalis. FRACTURES. If an immaterial branch is broken, it is best to remove it entirely, but it sometimes happens that a stem or branch which cannot be replaced, is thus injured, in which case it is advisable to attempt a reduction of the fracture; and if it be only partial, and the stem or branch but small, the parts will again unite by being put back into their natural position, and well propped up. Especially the cure may be expected not to succeed if the frac- ture is accompanied with contusion, or if the stem or branch is large. And even where it succeeds, the woody fibres do not contribute to the union; but the granular and herbaceous sub- stance only which exudes from be- tween the wood and liber, insinuating itself into all interstices, and finally becoming indurated in the wood. — Keith. Splints extending at least a foot above and below the fracture, should be bound very firmly all round, and a plaster of crafting-clay to exclude wet be placed over all; and every precaution adopted to prevent the surfaces of the wound being moved by the force of the wind. FRAGARIA. Fourteen species. Hardy herbaceous. Seeds and runners, Common soil. See Strawberry. FRAMES are structures employed either in forcing, or in protecting plants, and are of various sizes. According to the good practical rules of Abercrombie: —‘* The one-light frame may be about four feet and a half in width trom back to front, and three feet six inches the other way; fifteen or eighteen inches high in the back, and nine in front, with a glass sash or light made to fit the top completely, to slide up and down, and move away oc- casionally, ‘©The two-light frame may be seven feet long, four and a half wide, and fifteen or eighteen inches high in the back, with bars reaching from it at top to the front, serving both to strengthen the frame and help to support the lights ; the two lights to be each three feet six inches wide, made to fit the top of the frame exactly. ‘©The three-light frames should be ten feet six inches long, four and a half wide, and from eighteen inches to two feet high in the back, and from nine to twelve or fifteen inches in front—ob- serving that those designed principally for the culture of melons, may be rather deeper than for cucumbers, because they generally require a greater depth of mould or earth on the beds; though frames, eighteen or twenty inches in the back, and from nine to twelve in front, are often made to serve occasion- FRA ally, both for cucumbers and melons; each frame to have two cross bars, ranging from the top of the back to that of the front, at three feet six inches distance, to strengthen the frame, and | support the lights; and the three lights to be each three feet six inches wide; the whole together being made to fit the top of the frame exactly, every way in length and width. *¢ Sometimes the above sort of frames are made of larger dimensions than be- fore specified ; but in respect to this it should be observed that if larger they are very inconvenient to move to differ- ent parts where they may be occasion- ally wanted, and require more heat to warm the internal air; and in respect to depth particularly, that if they are but just deep enough to contain a due depth of mould, and for the plants to have moderate room to grow, they will be better than if deeper, as the plants will be then always near the glasses— which is an essential consideration in early work—and the internal air will be more effectually supported in a due temperature of warmth, For the deeper the frame, the heat of the internal air will be less in proportion, and the plants being far from the glasses will be some disadvantage in their early growth. Be- sides, a too deep frame, both in early and Jate work, is apt to draw the plants up weak; for they always naturally aspire towards the glasses, and the more space there is, the more they will run up; for which reason the Lon- don kitchen-gardeners have many of their frames not more than fourteen or fifteen inches high behind and seven in front, especially those which are in- tended to winter the more tender young plants, such as cauliflower and lettuce, and for raising early small salad, herbs, radishes, &c. ‘* The wood work of the back, ends, and front should be of inch or inch and a quarter deal, as before sh saree which should be all neatly planed even and smooth qn both sides; and the joints, in framing them together, should be so close that no wet nor air can en- ter. The cross-bars or bearers at top, for the support of the glasses, should be about three inches broad and one thick, and neatly dove-tailed in at back and front even with both edges, that the lights may shut down close, each having a groove or channel along the 235° pareee es FRA middle to conduct off all wet falling between the lights. At the end of each frame, at top, should be a thin slip of board, four inches broad, up to the out- side of the lights, being necessary to guard against cutting winds rushing in at that part immediately upon the plants, when the lights are occasionally tilted behind for the necessary admission of fresh air, &c. ‘‘With respect to the lights, the wood-work of the frame should be inch and a half thick and two and a half broad; and the bars, for the immediate support of the glass-work, should be about an inch broad, and not more than inch and a half thick: for if too broad and thick, they would intercept’ the rays of the sun, so should be only just sufficient to support the lights and be ranged from the back part to the front, eight or nine inches asunder, ‘¢ AJ] the wood-work, both of the frames and lights, should be painted to preserve them from decay. A lead colour will be the most eligible; and if done three times over, outside and in, will preserve the wood exceedingly from the injuries of weather, and from the moisture of the earth and dung.”? Mr. Knight has suggested an import- ant improvement in the form of frames. He observes, that the general practice is to make the surface of the bed per- fectly horizontal, and to give an incli- nation to the glass. That side of the frame which is to stand towards the north is made nearly as deep again as its opposite; so that if the mould is placed of an equal depth (as it ought to be) over the whole bed, the plants are too far from the glass at one end of the frame and too near at the other. To remove this inconvenience, he points out the mode of forming the bed on an inclined plane; and the frame formed with sides of equal depth, and so put together as to continue per- pendicular when on the bed, as repre- sented in the accompanying sketch, Fig. 52. There are several minor points in the construction of frames that deserve at- tention. The strips of lead or wood that sustain the panes of glass should run across the frame, and not length- wise; they then neither obstruct so much the entrance of light nor the pass- ing off of rain. The inside of the frame ~ should be painted white, since plants generally suffer in them for want of! light: if the accumulation of heat was required, the colour should be black. Raising the Frames.—It is a well- known difficulty that the gardener has, in raising the frames so as to keep the foliage of the plants within them ata determined and constant distance from the glass. To remedy this, Mr. Nairn, gardener to J. Creswell, Esq., of Bat- tersea Priory, has introduced the inge- nious contrivance represented in the ac- companying sketch and references :— A,a movable frame ; B B, inside lining of the pit; cc, outer wall. Between these the sides of the frame pass, and are lowered or elevated by racks and Fig. 53. spindles, D D. A more simple plan might perhaps be adopted, by having frames of the same length and breadth as the origi- nal, but only from an inch to three inches, or upwards, deep. These, as necessary, might be put on the top, and would be kept close by the pressure of the lights; bolts and nuts might also be easily applied, and the interstices rendered still more impervious to air by being faced with list. The frame may often be made a 236 —_e—- FRA substitute for the green-house ; and on this subject we have the following statement of Mr. Crambe, of Redbraes, near Edinburgh :— ‘‘ Being deficient in accommodation fur heaths and pelargoniums, Mr. Crambe procured two melon-frames, the dimensions of which were twenty feet long by eight wide; he then built walls of a few courses of bricks, in- closing an area of the exact size of the frames upon which they were placed. The floor was elevated six inches above the ground, level and .paved with bricks laid in finely-sifted coal-ashes, having the crevices between them filled with sand, which makes a better joint- ing than lime, the close joints of which leave no escape for the surplus water,— placing the building in a longitudinal direction from east to west. As a fire- flue would have occupied more space than could be spared, Mr. Rogers? conical boiler was adopted. The boiler is placed on the outside and is inclosed in a case of double sheet-iron, with a movable cover, and funnel of the same material, for the conveyance of smoke into a brick-chimney, the space between the case and boiler being filled with sand as an excellent non-conduc- tor. At right angles to the end of the pit is a brick-wall about three feet high, inclosing the boiler on two sides, leaving an open space in front for the admission of air and the clearing away of ashes. A movable wooden cover, of a triangular form, is placed above, to protect the whole from the effects of the weather. ‘‘ The size of the boiler is eighteen inches high by twelve in diameter at the base, and is placed upon a cast- iron grating, having a furnace-door be- neath for the regulation of air. The pipes, two inches and a half wide, are conducted along the front and secured to the wall with iron hooks, it being unnecegsary to convey them round the back, as the apparatus is found suffi- cient to heat a space of double the size. ‘For fuel he has uniformly found coke to maintain a constant and regu- lar heat: indeed this sort of boiler is not suited for the consumption of coal, although, by a little alteration of the present form, it might be made to con- sume it as freely as coke. When the external temperature was as low as 20°, the internal heat of the pit did not FRA 237 FRI —~—— vary above 3° in fourteen hours, dur- ing which time it required no atten- tion, and the cost of the fuel did not exceed twopence in twenty-four hours. When slight storms occurred, a cover- ing of Russia-mats was substituted in lieu of fire-heat, which is always, to a certain degree, injurious to green- house plants, but more particularly so to heaths, a class of plants which, when cultivated in properly constructed pits, have a decidedly more healthy appear- ance than those grown in green- houses.””—Gard. Chron. Shelter for the Glass.—In proportion to the number of lights, matting for shading and sheltering must be at hand. The usual mode of covering at night is by laying on mats, and over these litter, in thickness according to the severity of the season. Some gardeners lay hay immediately in contact with the glass, and over this the mats. Every person conversant with these modes of shelter is aware of their inconvenience. In rainy weather they soon become wet, and rapidly chill the beds; added to which, the trouble caused in placing and removing them, and the danger to the glass from the stones Jaid on asa resistance to the wind, are by no means inconsiderable. Mr. Seton, to obviate these incon- veniences, employs a particular cover- ing, which he constructs of four laths, two of such a length as to exceed a little that of the frame, and the others in a similar manner that of its breadth. These are bound together at right angles, so as to form a parallelogram of the form and size of the frame ; and pieces are bound across this at a foot apart from each other. Over this a mat is spread, and over the mat a layer of straw is fastened, laid on level like thatch, from three to six inches thick, as may appear necessary. If the breadth of the frame is, or exceeds, four feet, it is best to have the covering, in two ‘parts, otherwise it becomes weak and unwieldy. These panels, as they may be called, Mr. Seton also employs in preserving tender plants through the winter. A pit of frames, earthed up all round, and covered with one of them, or two or three if needful, is completely i impervious to frost. Substitutes for glass.—Oiled paper was formerly employed; but this has been superseded by linen dressed with Whitney’s or Tanner’s compositions; or the gardener may employ the follow- ing preparation :-— *¢ Qld pale linseed oil, three pints; sugar of lead (acetate of lead), one ounce ; white resin, four ounces. Grind the acetate with a little of the oil, then add the rest and the resin. Incorpo- rate thoroughly in a large iron pot over a gentle fire; and, with a large brush, apply hot to a fine calico stretched loosely previously, by means of tacks, upon the frame. On the following day it is fit for use, and may be either done over a second time, or tacked on tightly to remain.”»—Gard. Chron. The quantity made according to this recipe will be sufficient for about 100 square feet of calico.—Johnson’s Gard. Almanack. FRANCISCEA uniflora. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Peat and loam. FRANCOA. Three species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Common light soil. FRANKENIA. Nine species. Chief- ly hardy evergreen trailers. Cuttings. Loam and sandy peat. FRANKINCENSE. Pinus teda. FRAXINUS. Theash-tree. Forty- one species. Hardy deciduous trees. Seed, or budding or grafting on the common ash (F. excelsior). FREE-STONE peaches and necta- rines, the flesh of which parts readily from the stone. FRENCH BEAN. See Kidney Bean. FRENCH MARIGOLD. Tagetes patula. FRIESIA peduncularis. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Turfy loam and peat. FRINGE TREE. Chionanthus. FRITILLARIA. Fritillary. Twenty- three species, besides varieties. Hardy bulbs. Offsets. Sandy soil. ‘* The season for planting or trans- planting all these bulbs is when their flower-stalks are decayed, in July or beginning of August, though the bulbs taken up at that time may be kept, if necessary, by being laid in dry sand ; but the fritillary (UF. pyrenaica) and Persian lily (F. Persica) are rather more impatient, out of the earth, than the crown imperial (F. imperiatis), and therefore should always be put in again as soon as possible. Propagation of all the species.—The general mode! of propagation of all these plants is by offsets, which may he fe FRI 238 FRU —— separated every second or third year. The proper time is when their flower- stalks decay, taking the whole cluster of roots out of the earth and separating them into distinct roots, planting the smaller offsets by themselves, in nurse- ry-beds, to remain a year or two; and the larger roots plant where they are designed to remain. They are also propagated by seed to gain new varieties. The process is-| tedious. The fritillary and Persian lily | will be three years, and the crown im- perial sometimes six or seven, before they flower in perfection. The seeds are to be sown in boxes of light earth in August or September, | covering them with earth a quarter of) an inch deep.— Abercrombie. FROST. Ifa plant be frozen, and though some defy the attacks of frost, | others are very liable to its fatal influ- ence, death is brought upon them as it isin the animal frame, by a complete breaking down of their tissue; their vessels are ruptured, and putrefaction supervenes with unusual rapidity. The following contingencies render a plant especially liable to be frozen. ‘‘ First. Moisture renders a plant susceptible of cold. Every gardener knows this. If the air of his green- house be dry, the plants within may be submitted to a temperature of 32° with- | out injury, provided the return to a_ higher temperature be gradual. ~ “Secondly. Gradual decrements of | temperature are scarcely felt. A myr- tle may be forced and subsequently | passed to the conservatory, to the cold- | pit, and even thence to an open border, if in the south of England, without | enduring any injury from the cold of winter; but it would be killed if passed at once from the hot-house to the border. ‘¢ Thirdly. The more saline are the | juices of a plant, the iess liable are they to congelation by frost. Salt pre- serves vegetables from injury by sudden transitions in the temperature of the atmosphere. That salted soil freezes | with more reluctance than before the | salt is applied, is well known, and that crops of turnips, cabbages, cauliflowers, &c., are similarly preserved is equally well established. << Fourthly. Absence of motion en- ables plants to endure a lower degree of temperature. Water may be cooled | down to below 32° without freezing, but it solidifies the moment it is agi- tated.°—Principles of Gardening. The seeds of some plants are bene- fited by being frozen, for those of the rose and the hawthorn never germinate so freely as after being subjected to the winter frosts. Freezing is beneficial to soils, not only by destroying vermin within its bosom, but by aiding the atmosphere to pervade its texture, which texture is also rendered much more friable by the frost. M. Schluber says that freez- ing reduces the consistency of soils most remarkably, and that in the case of clays and other adhesive soils, the diminution of their consistency amounts to at least 50 percent. In hoeing clay he found it reduced from sixty-nine to forty-five of the scale already stated, and in the ordinary arable soil from thirty-three to twenty. He satisfactorily explains this phenomenon by observing that the crystals of ice pervading the entire substance of the frozen soil, ne- cessarily separate the particles of earth, rendering their points of contact fewer. As soil in ourclimate is rarely frozen to a depth of more than four inches, and in extremely hard winters it does not penetrate more than six inches in light soils, and ten inches in those that contain more clay, or an excess of moisture, these facts, and the frequent ' failure of our potato crops, have led Dr. Lindley to the very judicious suggestion |of planting these crops in autumn, which must be the best time if practica- ble, for it is pursuing the dictate of na- ture. That it is practicable, I have no ‘doubt, for no frost would injure the sets, if a little coal ashes were put over ‘them in each hole, for coal ashes are an excellent non-conductor of heat, and consequently opposed to a low reduc- tion of temperature. Even if potatoes | buried some inches beneath the soil’s surface are frozen, they thaw so very gradually, that no injury to them oc- curs, uniess the freezing has been suffi- ‘cient to burst their vessels, which occurs very rarely. FROTH-FLY. See Tettigonia. FRUIT ROOM. ‘Fruit for storing should be gathered before it is quite mature, for the ripening process, the formation of sugar, with its attendant exhalation of carbonic acid and water, goes on as well in the fruit room as in FRU 239 FRU ——4-—— the open air at the season when the) functions of the leaves have ceased, and the fruit no longer enlarges. In gathering fruit, every care should be adopted to avoid bruising; and, to this end, in the case of apples, pears, quinces, and medilars, let the gathering basket be lined throughout with sack- ing, and let the contents of each basket be carried at once to a floor covered with sand, and taken out one by one, not poured out, as is too usual, into a basket, and then again from this into a heap, for this systematic mode of in- flicting small bruises is sure to usher in decay, inasmuch as that it bursts the divisional membranes of the cells con- taining the juice, and this being extra- vasated, speedily passes from the stage of spirituous fermentation to that of putrefaction. To avoid this is the prin- cipal object of fruit storing, whilst at the same time it is necessary that the fruit shall be kept firm and juicy. Now it so happens, that the means required to secure the one also effects the other. ‘¢To preserve the juiciness of the fruit, nothing more is required than a low temperature, and the exclusion of the atmospheric air. The best practical mode of doing this is to pack the frvit in boxes of perfectly dried pit-sand, employing boxes or bins, and taking care that no two apples or pears touch. The sand should be thoroughly dried by fire-heat, and over the uppermost layer of fruit the sand should form a covering nine inches deep. ‘¢ Putrefaction requires indispensably three contingencies—moisture, warmth, and the presence of atmospheric air, or at least of its oxygen. Now burying in sand excludes al] these as much as can be practically effected ; and it excludes, moreover, the light, which is one of the prime agents in ‘the ripening of fruit. The more minutely divided into smal] portions animal or vegetable juices may be, so much longer are they preserved. from putridity: hence one of the rea- sons why bruised fruit decays more quickly than sound ; the membranes of the pulp dividing it into little cells, are ruptured and a larger quantity of the juices are together; but this is only one reason, for bruising allows the air to penetrate, and it deranges that inex- plicable vital power, which whilst un- injured aets so antiseptically in all fruits, seed, and eggs. Bruises the most slight, therefore, are to be avoided; and instead of putting fruit in heaps to sweat, as it is ignorantly termed, but in fact to heat and promote decay, fruit should be placed one by one upon a floor covered with dry sand, and the day following, if the air be dry, be wiped and stored away as before di- rected. Fruit for storing should not only be gathered during the middle hours of a dry day, but after the oc- curence of several such. ‘* Although the fruit is stored in sand, it is not best for it to be kept there up to the very time of using, for the pre- sence of light and air is necessary for the elaboration of saccharine matter. A fortnight’s consumption of each sort should be kept upon beach, birch, or elm shelves, with a ledge all round, to keep on them about half an inch in depth of dry sand; on this the fruit rests softly, and the vacancy caused by every day’s consumption should be re- placed from the boxes as it occurs. If deal is employed for the shelving, it is apt to impart a flavour of turpentine to the fruit. The store-room should have a northern aspect, be on a second floor, and have at least two windows, to pro- mote ventilation in dry days. A stove in the room, or hot-water pipe with a regulating cock, is almost essential, for heat will be required occasionally in very cold and in damp weather; the windows should have stout inside shut- ters. Sand operates as a preservative, not only by excluding air and moisture, but by keeping the fruit cool; for it is one of the worst conductors of heat, and moreover it keeps carbonic acid in contact with the fruit. All fruit in ripening emits carbonic acid, and this gas is one of the most powerful prevent- ives of decay known. <¢ The temperature of the fruit room - should never rise above 40°, nor sink below 34° of Fahrenheit’s thermometer, the more regular the better. Powdered charcoal is even a better preservative for packing fruit than sand; and one box not to be opened until April, ought to be packed with this most powerful antiseptic. If it were not from its soil- ing nature, and the trouble consequent upon its employment, I should advocate its exclusive use; I have kept apples perfectly sound in it until June. ‘¢Tt is not unworthy of observation, that the eye or extremity farthest from FUC 240 FUC ——-> the stalk, is the first to ripen. This is| the same stock. This is very desirable most perceptible in pears, especially in the chaumontelle. That end therefore should be slightly imbedded in the sand; and thus excluding it from the light, checks its progress in ripening.’ —Principles of Gardening. FUCHSIA. Twenty species, besides many varieties. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Seed andcuttings. Light rich loam and peat. Varieties for open borders.—F. Ric- cartonia; globosa; gracilis; Thomsonil; Clintonia ; conica; reflexa; erecta ; and virgata. For Pot-culture.—Brockmannii; Exo- niensis; Colossus; Attractor; Enchan- tress; Eppsii; Stanwelliana; Splendida; Defiance; Laneii; Toddiana; Cham- pion; Victory; Majestica; Paragon; Splendens; Fulgens; Robusta; Youel- lii; Chandlerii; Venus Victrix ; Money- pennii; Standishii; Dalstonii; Curtisii ; Eclipse; Rosa Alba; and Spectabilis. There are about eighty other named varieties of differing degrees of merit. Soil——The best is formed of equal parts rotted turf, sandy loam, and peat. Propagation by seed.—Sow directly it is ripe. Bruise the berries, wash away their pulp, mix the seed with sand, sow thinly in pans of the soil just described, and place in the green-house. Prick into thimbles when the seedlings are large enough for handling; place under a hand-glass, in a stove or hot- bed, for a few days, and then remove into a green-house. Shift into larger pots as the roots fill those in which they are growing. By cuttings.—No plant is more easily propagated by cuttings at any season of the year than the Fuchsia, but the best season is from the end of May to the end of July. Have the cuttings about three inches long; strip the leaves off the lower half of their lengths, and plant in pots, having the surface of the com- post in them to the depth of an inch covered with sand. Plant in this the cuttings, so that their ends just touch the compost. Moisten the sand, place the pots in a green-house under the cover of hand-glasses. When rooted, pot singly in sixties. By grafting. —‘“‘ The early part of May is suitable for grafting fuchsias, or rather for inarching them, as this is de- cidedly the most successful mode of combining more than one variety upon where room has to be husbanded. Cut away to the length of one and a half inch, half the thickness of the two shoots to be united, bind them together ; sever through the scion three-fourths of its thickness, just below the junction, keep in a warm moist atmosphere, and in three or four days the junction will be complete. F. fulgens, F. Cormackii and other strong growing varieties are the best stocks.?’—Gard. Chron. To make specimen Fuchsias. —*‘‘ In order to have specimen plants of Fuch- sias,?? says Mr. G. Watson, “ put in cuttings in the beginning of August; planting them round the rims of five inch pots filled with light sandy soil and well drained; then place in a cu- cumber-frame till sufficiently rooted, and afterwards remove to a cool and airy part of the green-house, and let them remain till February. In that month, pot off into small sixties, and when well rooted in these pots, two or more healthy and well-shaped plants of each variety put into larger pots accord- ing to their size. While young, care must be taken that the earth, in which they are growing, does not become soured by over watering, or the plants will soon become sickly. When they have filled these pots with roots, the plants must be removed into larger pots and carefully tied up to sticks in order to keep the leading shoots up- right, as several of the varieties have a tendency to grow downward, and it is only with constant care that these va- rieties are kept vigorous. ‘s About the second week in June, shift for the last time into pots suffi- ciently large to bloom them in; in pot- ting particular attention must be paid to the drainage, so that the superabund- ant water may be easily passed off. ‘¢ Plants treated in this manner will begin to bloom profusely at the latter end of July, and continue flowering till the end of September; during this pe- riod the pots should be placed in pans, so that the plant may be well supplied with water, and yet not constantly soaked in it. ‘¢ Plants thus treated, with their shoots pruned to three or four buds, form beautiful objects for turning out into the flower garden the following summer; but if very large specimens are required, their pot room must be FUE 241 increased, and they should be grown in the open air. ‘¢ Those who cultivate the Fuchsia, with the desire of obtaining it in the greatest perfection, should remember that in its native haunts it flourishes under the shade of loftier shrubs. Rea- son, therefore, suggests, and experience has proved, that nothing more conduces to its vigour than shading it for three or four hours during the hottest period of the day, and syringing gently every night and morning during hot weather.”’ — Gard. Chron. inter Protection.—At the approach of frost, that excellent horticulturist, Mr. Mearns, recommends that the plants should be taken out of the soil, and all the laterals cut from them; upon these intended to be trained to a wall, paling, or trellis, leave three, four, five or six canes. They are then ready to be deposited until the end of April, or beginning of May, in a pit in heath or any other tolerably dry soil, or sand, and place them in a sloping direction in the pit with stakes driven here and there diagonally over them, that they may be kept hollow, and to prevent the soil from pressing too much upon their brittle stems. In covering them use no straw, or matting, but allow the soil to fall amongst them, and form it into a sharp ridge at the top.—Gard. Chron. The laterals removed at the time of this winter-pruning, if divested of their laterals, and packed in powdered char- coal, or perfectly dry earth, in boxes, and placed out of the reach of frost, in a cool place, will retain their vitality until next April, when they may be cut into lengths of about a foot long, and planted with a dibble; insert them into the ground, so as to leave about three inches of the cuttings above the surface in any place where they are wanted to flower next summer. If kept tolerably moist, they will be found to make good flowering plants with little trouble.— Gard. Chron. i FUEL is no small item in the annual expenditure of the stove, green-house, and conservatory departments, and therefore deserves consideration. ’ The specific heat of water being 1, and that of atmospheric air 0.00035, or seegth, if the quantity of fuel which will heat a cubic foot of water one de- gree be multiplied by 0.00055, the pro- 16 FUM duct will be the quantity of fuel required to heat a cubic foot of air, one degree ; and twenty times that quantity will heat it twenty degrees; thirty times will heat it thirty degrees, and so on. Now 0.0075 Ibs. of best coals will heat a cubic foot of water one degree; there- fore 0.000002625 Ibs. of best coals will heat a cubic foot of air one degree. It is essential to good and profitable fuel that it should be free from moist- ure; for unless it be dry, much of the heat which it generates is consumed in converting that moisture into vapour: hence the superior value of old dense, dry wood, to that which is porous and damp. A pound of dry will heat thirty- five pounds of water from 32° to 212° ; but a pound of the same wood in a moist or fresh state, will not similarly heat more than twenty-five pounds. The value, therefore, of different woods for fuel is nearly inversely as their moisture: and this may be readily as- certained by finding how much a pound weight of the shavings of each loses by drying during two hours, at a tempera- ture of 212°. The preceding are the average of results obtainable in a common well- constructed furnace. Byacomplicated form of boiler, perhaps a small saving of fuel, in obtaining the same results, | may be effected; but it will be found generally, that the original cost of apparatus, and the current additional expense for repairs, will more than exceed the economy of fuel.—Prin. of Gard. FULL-FLOWER. See Double-flower. FUMARIA. Six species. Hardy an- nual climbers. Seed. Common soil. FUMIGATING is employed for the destruction of certain insects; the in- haled vapour or smoke arising from some substances being fatal to them. Tobacco (see Tobacco) is the usual sub- stance employed; and it may be ignited, and the smoke impelled upon the insects by bellows ; or the ignited tobacco may ~ be placed under a box, or within a frame together with the affected plant. The vapour of turpentine is destructive to the scale and other insects, employed in this mode. Mr. Mills has also stated the following as the best mode of fumi- gating with tobacco. “«¢ According to the size of the place to be fumigated, one or more pieces of cast iron, one inch thick, and three’ FUM 242 GAR ——s inches over, are made red hot; (pieces of old tiles, such as are used for cover- ing smoke flues, would probably answer equally well ;) one of these is placed in a twenty-four sized pot, on which is put the quantity of tobacco considered ne- cessary to charge the structure with smoke sufficient to destroy insect life. To fumigate an ordinary sized eight- light house, I use three heaters, and three twenty-four sized pots, which I have placed on the front flue or walk; one pound of strong tobacco is put on the three heaters in equal parts, and this I find sufficient to fill the house, so as to destroy all the kinds of insects that perish by fumigation. The system has these advantages: the tobacco is so quickly consumed, that the house is completely filled in a very short time, and but little smoke can escape before the insects are destroyed; the pure heat from the iron heaters prevents injury from gas, and as no blowing is required there is no dust: it being only neces- sary to put the tobacco on the heaters, and leave the house.”»—Gard. Chron. FUMITORY. Fumaria. FUNKIA. Five species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Sheltered light soil. FURCR@A. Sevenspecies. Stove succulents. Suckers. Rich light loam. GAERTNERA. Two species. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Loam and peat. GAGEA. Nineteen species. Hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets. Light soil. GAGNEBINA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings and seeds. Loam and peat, with a little sand. GAILLARDIA. Four species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Com- mon soil. GALACTIA. Four species. Hardy deciduous or stove evergreen twining plants. Cuttings. Division. Seeds. Loam, peat and sand. GALACTITES. Two species. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. GALANGALE. Kampfera. GALANTHUS. Snowdrop. Two species... Hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets. Common soil. GALAX aphylia. Hardy herbaceous perennial. Division. Peaty soil in a moist situation. GALAXIA. Five species. house bulbous perennials. Sandy peat soil. . Green- Offsets. GALEANDRA gracilis. Stove orchid. Division. Sandy peat, and light loam. GALEGA. Goat’s Rue. cies, and some varieties. baceous perennials. Common soil. GALEOBDOLON Luteumand variety. Hardy herbaceous perennial. Division. Marshy soil. GALIPEA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peaty soil. GALL is a tumour, formed in conse- quence of the part being punctured by an insect, the tumour becoming the ni- dus of the insect brood. The Oak apple caused by the Cynitps querci is a fami- liar example; as also are the bunches of leaves not unlike a rose on the Rose Willow, and the mossy tufts on the twigs of the wild rose, and erroneously called Bedeguar. GALPHINIA. Two species. Stove evergreens; onea shrub; one a climber. Ripened cuttings. Loam and peat. GAMBOGE. Garcinia Gambogia. ,; GAMMA MOTH. See Noctua. GANGRENE. See Canker. GARCINIA. Four species. Stove evergreen fruit trees. Ripened cuttings. Light loamy soil with peat. They require a strong moist heat. GARDEN BALSAM. Justicia pee- Five spe- Hardy her- Division or seeds. toralis. GARDEN BEETLE. See Pahyllo- pertha. GARDEN PEBBLE MOTH. See Scopula. GARDENING. “ Herder, in his Kal- ligone, calls gardening the second libe- ral art, architecture the first. £ A dis- trict,? says he, ‘of which every part bears what is best for it, in which no waste spot accuses the indolence of the inhabitants, and which is adorned by beautiful gardens, needs no statues on the road; Pomona, Ceres, Pales, Ver- tumnus, Sylvan and Flora meet us with all their gifts. Art and nature are there harmoniously mingled. To distinguish, in nature, harmony from diseord ; to discern the character of every region with a taste which developes and dis- poses to the best advantage the beauties /of nature—if this is not a fine art, then none exists.? However true it may be, that gardening deserves to be called a fine art, we can hardly agree with Her- der, that it is the second in the order of _ GAR 243 GAR —_¢-—— time; for though gardens must have originated soon after man had advanced beyond the mere nomadic life, yet the practice of gardening asa fine art, that is, not merely as a useful occupation, must necessarily have been of a much later date. The hanging gardens of Semiramis are reckoned among the wonders of the world; but that which astonishes is not therefore beautiful. Scaffoldings, supported by pillars, co- vered with earth, bearing trees, and artificially watered, are, no doubt, won- derful; but we have no reason to sup- pose them beautiful. The gardens of the Persians (paradises) are called by Xenophon delightful places, fertile and beautiful ; but they seem rather to have been places naturally agreeable, with fruit-trees, flowers, &c., growing spon- taneously, than gardens artificially laid out and cultivated. Whether the Greeks, so distinguished in the fine arts, neglect- ed the art of gardening, is a question not yet decided. The gardens of Al- cinotis (Odyssey, vil., 112—132) were nothing but well laid out fruit orchards and vineyards, with some flowers. The grotto of Calypso (Odyssey, v., 63—73) is more romantic, but probably is not intended to be described as a work of art. The common gardens which the Greeks had near their farms, were more or less like the gardens of Alcinoiis. Attention was paid to the useful and the agreeable, to culinary plants, fruits, flowers, shadowing trees and irrigation. Shady groves, cool fountains, with some statues, were the only ornaments of the gardens of the philosophers at Athens. The descriptions of gardens in the later Greek novelists do not show any great progress in the art of gardening in their time ; and it would be worth while to inquire, whether the same cause, which prevented the cultivation of landscape painting with the ancients, did not also prevent the progress of the art of gar- dening. . The ancients stood in a differ- ent relation to nature from the moderns. The true art of gardening is probably connected with that element of the ro-| mantic, which has exercised so great an influence on all arts ever since the re- vival of arts and letters, and, in some degree, ever since the Christian era. Even the grottoes of the ancients owed their origin merely to the desire for the coolness they afforded. Natural grot- toes led to artificial ones, which were constructed in the palaces in Rome, and in which, as Pliny says, nature was counterfeited. But a grotto does not constitute a garden; and that the Ro- mans had no fine gardens, in our sense of the word, is proved by several pas- sages of their authors, and by the ac- counts we have of their gardens. In Pliny’s description of his Tuscan villa, we find, indeed, all conveniences—pro- tection against the weather, an agreea- ble mixture of coolness and warmth; but everything beautiful relates merely to buildings, not to the garden, which, with its innumerable figures of box, and in its whole disposition, was as tasteless as possible. Ofthe gardens of Lucullus, Varro says, that they were not remark- able for flowers and fruits, but for the paintings of the villa. A fertile soil, and a fine prospect from the villas, which were generally beautifully situ- ated, seem to have satisfied the Romans. Whatever the art of gardening had pro- duced among them, was, with every other trace of refinement, swept away by the barbarians who devastated Italy. Charlemagne directed his attention to this art, but his views did not extend beyond mere utility. The Troubadours of the middle ages speak of symmetri- cal gardens. In Italy, at the time of the revival of learning, attention was again turned towards pleasure gardens, some of which were so famous, that drawings were made of them. They may have been very agreeable places, but we have no reason to suppose them to have exhibited much of the skill of the scientific gardener. At a later period, a new taste in gardening pre- vailed in France. Regularity was car- ried to excess; clipped hedges, alleys laid out in straight lines, flower-beds tortured into fantastic shapes, trees cut into the form of pyramids, haystacks, animals, &c., were now the order of the day. The gardens corresponded with the taste of the time, which dis- played itself with the same artificial stiffness in dress, architecture and poet- ry. Lenotre was the inventor of this style of French gardening, which, how- ever, his successors carried to greater excess. Nothing natural was left, and yet nature was often imitated in arti- ficial rocks, fountains, &c. Only one thing strikes us as truly grand in gar- dens of this sort—the fountains, which were constructed at great expense. GAR 244 GAR aS ' The Dutch imitated the French. The English were the first who felt the ab- surdity of this style. Addison attacked itin his famous Essays on Gardening, in the Spectator; and Pope, in his fourth Moral Epistle, lashed its petty, cramped and unnatural character, and displayed a better taste in the garden of his little villa, at Twickenham ; crowds followed him, and practice went before theory. (See Horace Walpole’s History of Modern Taste in Gardening.) This style, however, was also carried to excess. All appearance of regularity was rejected as hurtful to the beauty of nature, and it was forgotten, that ifina garden we want nothing but nature, we had better leave gardening altogether. This extreme prevailed, particularly after the Oriental and Chinese style (see Chambers’ Dissertations on Oriental Gardening) had become known. What in nature is dispersed over thousands of miles, was huddled together on a smal] spot ofa few acres square—urns, tombs; Chinese, Turkish and New Zealand temples; bridges, which could not be passed without risk; damp grottoes; moist walks; noisome pools, which were meant to represent lakes; houses, huts, castles, convents, hermitages, ruins, decaying trees, heaps of stones ; —a pattern card of every thing strange, from all nations under heaven, was ex- hibited in such a garden. Stables took the shape of palaces, kennels of Gothic temples, &c.; and this was called nature! The folly of this was soon felt, and a chaster style took its place. At this point we have now arrived. The art of gardening, Jike every other art, is manifold; and one of its first princi- ples, as in architecture, is to calculate well the means and the objects. Im- mense cathedrals and small apartments, long epics and little songs, all may be equally beautiful and perfect, but can only be made so by a proper regard to the character ofeach. Thustheclimate, the extent of the grounds, the soil, &c., must determine the character of a gar- den. Aiken justly observes, that no- thing deviates more from nature, than the imitation of her grand works in miniature. AJ] deception ceases at the first view, and the would-be magnificent garden appears like a mere baby house. Let the character of the agreeable, the sublime, the awful, the sportive, the rural, the neat, the romantic, the fan- tastic, predominate in a garden, ac- cording to the means which can be commanded. This is not so easy as might appear at first, and it requires as much skill to discover the disposition which should be made of certain grounds, as to carry it into effect; but if such skill were not required, garden- ing would not be an art. Another prin- ciple, which gardening has in common with all the fine arts, is, that it is by no means its highest aim to imitate reality, because reality will always be better than imitation. A gardener ought to study nature, to learn from her the principles and elements of beauty, as the painter is obliged to do; but he must not stop there. As another gene- ral remark, we would observe, that the true style of gardening lies between the two extremes. It is by no means a re- proach to a garden that it shows the traces of art, any more than it is to a drama. Both, indeed, should follow nature ; but in respect to the fine arts, there is a great difference between a free following of nature and a servile copy of particular realities. Tieck, in his Phantasien, does not entirely reject the French system ; at least, he defends the architectural principle as one of the principles of the art of gardening. There are taany works of great merit on gardening, of which we only men- tion Descriptions des nouveaux Jardins dela France, &c., by La Borde (Paris, 1808 to 1814), the most complete for descriptions; Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Gardening, 5th edit., (London, 1827;) Handbuch der schénen Gartenkunst, by Dietrich (Giessen, 1815); Hirschfeld’s Theorie der Gartenkunst (Leipsic, 1779), 5 vols., 4to., with many engravings, a work of very great merit, and still of considerable use; Le bon Jardinier, Almanach pour 1? Année 1830, edited by A. Poiteau (Paris), 1022 pages. (See the article Horticulture.)?? — Encyclo- pedia Americana. GARDENER. The day is gone when the spade and the blue apron were the only appropriate devices for the gar-— dener; he must now not only have a thorough practical knowledge of his art, but he must also have an intimate acquaintance with its sciences. No man can have stored in his mind too much knowledge, but there are always some branches of information of more value than others; of these to the gar= GAR 245 GEI : —— ‘dener there are none so important as ‘botany and chemistry. Botany, physi- ological as well as classical. Chemistry, especially as applied to the examination of organic nature. GARDENIA. Twenty-seven species and two varieties. Stove or green-house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat. GARDEN ROCAMBOLE. Allium ophioscordon. GARDEN SWIFT. See Hepialus. GARDOQUIA. Five species. Stove or green-house evergreen shrubs. G. betonicoides is an herbaceous perennial. Cuttings. Sand,]oam, and peat. GARLAND FLOWER. Pleurandra Cneorum. GARLICK. Alliumsativum. Is ca- pable of growing in almost any soil. Mode and Time of Planting.—lIt is generally propagated by parting the root, but may be raised from the bulbs produced on the stems. The planting may be performed any time in February, March, and early in April; but the middle of the second is the usual time of insertion. A single clove to be placed in each one of holes made six |- inches apart, and one and a half deep, in straight lines, six inches distant from each other; care being taken to set the root downwards: to do this it is the best practice to thrust the finger and thumb, holding a clove between them, to the requisite depth without any pre- vious hole being made. The only cul- tivation is to keep them clear of weeds, and in June the leaves to be tied in knots to prevent their running to seed, which would greatly diminish the size of the bulbs. A few roots may be taken up as required in June and July, but the whole must not be lifted until the leaves wither, which occurs at the close of this last mentioned month, or in the course of August. It is usual to leave a part of the stalk attached, by which they are tied into bundles, being pre- viously well dried for keeping during the winter. GARLIC PEAR. Crateva. GARRYA elliptica and laurifolia. Hardy evergreen shrubs. Layers. Loamy soil. GARUGA primata. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam and peat. GASTERIA. Forty-two species and many varieties. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Suckers or leaves. Sandy loam, leaf mould and peat, with a little bush rubbish. GASTONIA palmata. Stove ever- ‘green shrub. Cuttings. Sand, loam, and peat. GASTROCARPHA runcinata. Half- hardy herbaceous perennial. Seeds. Common soil. GASTROCHILUS pulcherrimus. Stove herbaceous perennial. Division. Sandy loam. GASTROLOBIUM. Three species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Half ripened cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. GASTRONEMA clavatum. Green- house bulbous perennial. Offsets. Rich mould. : GATHERER. The hand is the best instrument for collecting fruit into the basket, but to avoid the danger and breakage of branches unavoidably inci- dental to using long ladders, the fol- lowing instruments have been designed. Fig. 54, for apples and other single fruit, Fig. 55, for grapes, the branches of which it severs and retains in its grasp. Fig. 54. Fig. 55. GATHERING. See Fruit Room. GAUDICHAUDIA cynanchoides. Stove evergreen twiner. Ripe cuttings. Light turfy loam and peat. GAULSHERIA. Four species. Hardy or green-house evergreen shrubs. G. procumbens, a creeper. Layers. Peat soil. ’ GAURA. Eight species. Chiefly hardy plants. G. fruticosa, increases by cuttings. The perennials by seed: they thrive in a rich soil. The annuals and biennials. Seeds. Common soil. GAZANIA. Five species. Green- house herbaceous perennials or ever- reen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam. GEISSOMERIA longiflora. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich sois of loam and rotten dung. GEI 246 GER eed GEISSORHIZA. Eleven species and a few varieties. Green-house bulbous erennials. Offsets. Sandy peat. GEITONOPLESIUM. Three spe- cies. Green-house herbaceous peren- nials. G. cymodum, is an evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Peat and loam, or sandy peat. ; GELA. Twospecies. Green-house evergreens. Cuttings. Sandy peat. GELASINE azurea. Green-house bulbous perennial. GEM. See Bud. GENISTA. Forty-nine species and a few varieties. Chiefly hardy ever- green shrubs. A few deciduous or ever- green trailers and shrubs. For the green-house or half hardy kinds, cut- tings, loam, peat, and sand. The hardy kinds are increased by layers or seeds. GENTIANA. Fifty-eight species and some varieties. Hardy plants. The herbaceous kinds for the most part grow well in a rich peaty soil, and may be increased by division. The annuals and biennials by seeds. Com- mon soil. GENTIANELLA. Gentiana acaulis. Is a hardy and herbaceous creeper. Sow the seeds of this. as soon as they are ripe, (otherwise they soon lose the power of vegetation,) in pans filled with rather heavy peat. Sow on the surface, without any covering except a slight sprinkling of silver sand; then place the pans either in a cold frame facing the north, and kept close, or on the north side of a wall, where they are completely screened from the sun, and cover them with a hand-glass. Soil.—A light loam suits it best ; ma- nured annually with leaf mould. Ifthe subsoil is dry, the soil may be advan- tageously more clayey. GEOMETRA. The _ Cuttings are the best mode of propa- gating approved kinds. Take a bearing shoot not less than nine inches long; remove all the buds but the top three, and bury them to within an inch of the lowest bud left. Plant them in rows eighteen inches apart each way. Culture.—At the end of the first year, the shoots must be cut down to a few eyes, and the plants kept clear from any summer shoots that may be on the stem or that spring from the root; they must have plenty of water the first sum- mer. They will be fit to plant out in two or three years into borders or quarters, at eight feet between the rows, and six feet apart. At the time of planting out, some rich compost may be added with great effect towards the flavour, size, and abundance of the crop.—Doyle. . ‘‘ There is a continual tendency on the part of the under ground buds to become branches, and these are the suckers that we find so troublesome in many kinds of soils. By. continually stopping and wounding them, however, they will in general perish; and to do this is what we recommend. ‘¢ The Lancashire gooseberry grow- ers adopt the following as the best means of preventing gooseberries from throwing up suckers, and also an excel- lent plan of insuring an abundance of large fruit. ‘¢ In the sketch, (Fig. 60,) A is the (Ab Fis Ss we bush, B B is the soil taken out about eighteen inches all round the plant, and about six inches deep at C, that if there are any buds or suckers, they are sure to be seen and destroyed. Thisdo every year in December, and as soon as the soil is taken out, spread cowdung over the roots as shown at B, after which replace the earth that has been taken out: when you have any new seedlings to propagate, do not take out the soil, but lay the manure round them, and cover it with a layer of earth, which encourages the plant to produce suckers. ‘‘ By these means good bushes are sooner obtained than by cuttings, and generally speaking, well-rooted suckers may be taken off in October, which produce fruit the following year. The cuttings should be deprived of all their under-ground eyes or buds ; before they are put into the ground to take cuttings from twelve to fifteen inches long, cut tke upper end to a bud, leaving three or four other buds below it, then pare away all the other buds, and pick out the lowest of all, finishing just below it by a horizontal clean cut.?? — Gard. Chron. Pruning in the summer is confined to pinching off superfluous and mis- placed shoots, it always being kept in mind that the centre of the tree in standards must be kept open so as to admit the light. “* At the time of prun- ing,’? says Mr. Doyle, ‘some fine young shoots should be left in the most con- venient place as bearing wood for the ensuing year, and room must be made for them by cutting out some of the old wood. Each of the old branches should have a leader left of new wood, which may be shortened according to its strength so as to leave five or six inches above the old wood. Very strong shoots need not be so much shortened unless in a part of the bush which is naked, and requires to be furnished. << Avoid shortening the shoots unless when the tree is naked, or the wood will be crowded, tufted, and productive of very smal] and indifferent fruit. The leading shoot at the end of each branch should, where it is possible, terminate peeerally, if it be not inconsistent with the equable extent of the tree; and in most cases it may still be so contrived by having recourse to the next lateral | branch of the desired extent, and by 9 GOO 25 taking away that which straggled be- yond it. Let it be recollected that at the time when the young trees are growing in the nursery, and at all times after, the attention of the gardener must be directed to what is called ** stemming the trees,?? which is pro- ducing and continuing a clear stem toa given height, (according to the growth of the different kinds,) by taking off all latera] shoots at their first appearance. Espaliers.—No fruit is more benefited than that of the gooseberry, by having the tree trained as an espalier. It is best done to stakes arranged lozenge- wise, (see Espalier,) or the bush may be trained round hoops in this form. Fig. 61. Fruit.—This should be thinned, the smaller berries be cut away with a pair of scissors for tarts, &c., as required, and the fine berries left for dessert. If some of reds, as the Warrington, and of the thick-skinned yellows, as the Mogul, are matted over when the fruit is ripe, it will remain good until Christ- mas. This is easiest done when the tree is grown as an espalier. To in- crease the size of the berries, abund- ance of water and liquid manure are given to the roots, and the berries are suckled by keeping their tips in saucers of water; this is sacrificing the flavour to increase the circumference of the fruit. Vermin.—The caterpillar and the black-fly are both destroyed by syring- ing the bushes with water, and then dusting the leaves above and beneath with white hellebore powder, or with lime and soot mixed in equal propor- tions. Forcing. — Neither the gooseberry nor currant can be forced without great care. No heat must be applied when they are first put under glass. A very 6. GOU low temperature, about 60° afterwards, and not higher than 40° at night. GORDONIA.—Four species. Hardy deciduous shrubs. G. hematozrylon is a stove evergreen tree. G. pubescens, (the Franklinea) is a highly attractive shrub or minor tree, indigenous to Georgia, &c. Layers or cuttings. Peat and loam. GOSSYPIUM. The Cotton Tree. Eleven species.~ Stove annuals, bien- nials, perennials, or evergreen shrubs. For the shrubby kinds, cuttings and seeds. The annuals and biennials, seeds. A light rich soil and a moist heat. ' GOUANIA. Six species. Stove ever- green climbers. Cuttings. Peat and loam. : GOURD, Sagenaria vulgaris, and PUMPKIN, Cucurbita pepo, are chiefly employed in the making of pies, &c. There are numerous varieties, varying in the shape and colour of their fruit: as the globular, oval, pear-shaped, green, striped, marbled, yellow, &c., &c. One variety, of a pale buff or salmon colour and globular form grows to the weight of one hundred and ten pounds and upwards: it is known in France as the Potiron Jaune, and used in soups, but in particular from being mashed and eaten as potatoes or turn- ips, being of a very pleasant and pecu- liar flavour. The bottle-shaped is of little use for culinary purposes, but is remarkable as being of the form of a Florence or oil-flask. Cucurbita melopepo, the Squash. Cu- curbita succada, the Vegetable Marrow. Both these are cultivated for the fruit, which being gathered when of the size of a goose’s egg, is boiled whole in salt and water, laid upon toast, and- eaten as asparagus. Of the squash, there are almost as many varieties as of the pompion, and similarly character- ized. The young fruit is much used in pickles. They may be ‘sown in a hot- bed of moderate strength, under a frame or hand-glasses at the end of March or early in April. In May they maybe sown in the open ground, beneath a south fence, to remain, or in a hot-bed, if at its commencement, to forward the plants for transplanting at its close, or early in June. The plants are fit for transplanting when they have got four rough leaves, or when of about a month’s growth. They must be plant- GOV 257 GRA —_4_— ed without any shelter on dunghills, or in holes prepared as directed for the open ground crop of cucumbers. Some may be inserted beneath pales, walls or hedges, to be trained regularly over them on account of their ornamental appearance. They may be treated in every respect like the cucumber, only they do not want so muchcare. They require abundance of water, in dry weather... When the runners have ex- tended three feet, they may be pegged down and covered with earth at a joint; this will cause the production of roots, and the lenger continuance of the plant in vigour. - The fruit fer seed should be selected and treated as directed for the cucum- ber. It is ripe in the course of Sep- tember or October. We have retained this article in its original form as a matter of curiosity, not only as regards the artificial means necessary in Great Britain, for the pro- duction of the pumpkin and the squash, but also with reference to the manner in which the latter vegetable is serv- ed at table. In the United States no person who cultivates a garden, how- ever small, can be presumed ignorant as to the culture of these vines, and it is therefore unnecessary to add a word of instruction. The pumpkin described as the Potiron Jaune is the one known with us as the mammoth, of which spe- cimens have been exhibited before the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, over eight feet in circumference. GOVENIA. Four species. Stove erchids. G. gardneri an herbaceous perennial. Division. Sandy peat and lightloam. G.lagenophera, asa swamp plant in very sandy peat. ‘* Having filled a twenty-four with about two inches of erocks, place over them a layer of spungy peat for two or three inches more, and then fill it up with nearly equal quantities of sharp sand and heath mould, so that the surface is nearly all sand. Place it near the light in a cool part of the stove about 60°, and keep it very wet as long as it con- tinues growing. It generally flowers in April or May. Remove to the green- house after flowering, and keep quite dry in the stove from October to Feb- ruary.2*—Gard. Chron. GRAFF or GRAFT. See Scion. _ GRAFTING is uniting a scion or 17 part of a branch of one plant upon the root, branch, or stem of another. Grafting is a difficult mode of multi- plying an individual, because it is re- quisite so to fit the scion to the stock, that some portion of their alburnums and inner barks must coincide, other- wise the requisite circulation of the sap is prevented. No graft will suc- ceed if not immediately grafted upon a nearly kindred stock. I say immedi- ately, because it is possible that by grafting on the most dissimilar species on which it will take, and then moving it with some of the stock attached, to another stock still more remotely allied, that a graft may be made to succeed though supplied with sap from roots of a very dissimilar species. Thus some pear scions can hardly be made to unite with a quince stock; but if they be grafted upon a young shoot and after- wards inserted in a quince stock, they grow as freely as if inserted in a seed- ling pear stock. The reason for this unusual difficulty in the way of uniting kindred species, arises from one or more of these causes. First, the sap flowing at discordant periods. Secondly, the proper juices being dissimilar. Or thirdly, the sap vessels being of inappropriate calibre. Grafting is employed, first, to multiply any desired variety or species; second- ly, to accelerate its fruitfulness, as when the shoot of a two year old apple seedling is grafted upon a stock of six years’ growth, it will arrive at fruitful- ness much sooner than one left on the parent stem; thirdly, to improve the quality of the fruit by having a more abundant supply of sap; and fourthly, to renew the productiveness of stocks from which previous kinds had failed. The best modes of grafting are thus described by Dr. Lindley in his admir- able Theory of Horticulture :— ‘Whip grafting is the commonest kind; it is performed by heading down a stock, then paring one side of it bare for the space of an inch or so, and cutting down obliquely at the upper end of the pared part, towards the pith; the scion is levelled obliquely to a length corre- sponding with the pared surface of the stock, and an incision is made into it near the upper end of the wound ob= liquely upwards so as to form a ‘ tongue,? which is forced into the corresponding wound in the stock ; care is then takem GRA 258 GRA ————— that the bark of the scion is exactly ad- | ( justed to that of the stock, | and the two are bound firmly together. ‘¢ Here the mere con- tact of the two enables the sap flowing upwards | through the stock to sus- tain the life of the scion until the latter can de- velop its buds, which then send downwards their wood ; at the same time the cellular system of the parts in contact unites by granulations, and when the wood descends it passes through the cel- lular deposit, and holds the whole together. ‘¢ The use of * tongue- ing? is merely to steady | the scion and to prevent its ieee The advantage of this mode of grafting is the quickness with which it may be performed ; the disadvantage is, that the surfaces applied to each other, are much smaller than can be secured by other means. ‘< Itis, however, a great improvement upon the o!d crown grafting, still em- ployed in the rude unskilful practice of some continental gardeners, but expel- led from Great Britain ; which consists of nothing more than heading down a stock with an exactly horizontal cut, and splitting it through the middle, into which is forced the end of a scion cut into the form of a wedge, when the whole are bound together. In this method the split in the stock can hardly be made to heal without great care ; the union between the edges of the scion and those of the stock is very imperfect, because the) bark of the former neces- sarily lies upon the wood of the latter, except just at the sides; and from the impossibility of bring- ing the two barks in con- tact, neither the ascend- ing nor descending .cur- rents of sap are able freely to intermingle. This plan is much improved by cutting out the stock into the form of a wedge, instead of splitting ; it may, however, be advan- tageously employed for such plants as Fig. 62. Fig. 63. Cactacee; the parts of which, ow- ing to their succulence, rea- dily form a union with each Fig. 64, other. «c A far better ae than whip grafting, but more te- dious, is saddle grafting, in which the stock. is pared ob- liquely on both sides till it becomes an inverted wedge, and the scion is slit up the centre, when its sides are pared down till they fit the sides of the stock. In this method the greatest possible quantity of surface is brought into contact, and the parts are mutually so adjusted, that the ascending sap is freely received from the stock by the scion, while at the same time, the descending sap can flow freely from the scion into the stock. Mr. Knight, in describing this mode of operating, has the following observa- tions: ‘¢ The graft first begins its efforts to unite itselfto the stock just at the period when the formation of a new internal layer of bark commences in the spring, and the fluid which generates this layer of bark, and which also feeds the in- serted graft, radiates in every direction from the vicinity of the medulla to the external surface of the alburnum. <¢ The graft is of course most advan- tageously placed when it presents the largest surface to receive such fluid, and when the fluid itself is made to deviate least from its natural course. This takes place most efficiently when, (as in this saddle grafting) a graft of nearly equal size with the stock is divided at |its base and made to stand astride the stock, and when the two divisions of the graft are pared extremely thin, at and near their lower extremities, so that they may be brought into close contact with the stock (from which but little bark or wood should be pared off} by the ligature..’—Hort. Trans. 147. To execute saddle grafting properly, the scion and stock should be of equal size; and where that cannot be, a se- cond method, in which the scion may be much smaller than the stock, has been described by the same larg gar- ener. This is practised upon small stocks GRA Fig. 65. fordshire; but it is never attempted till the usual sea- son of grafting is past, and till the bark is readily de- tached from the alburnum. The head of the stock is then taken off, by a single stroke of the knife, oblique- ly, so that the incision com- mences about the width of the diameter of the stock, below the point where the medulla appears in the sec- tion, and ends as much above it upon the opposite side. The scion, or graft, which should not exceed in diameter half that of the stock, is then to be divided longitudinally, abouttwo inches upwards from its lower end, into two unequal divisions, by passing the knife upwards just in contact with one side of the me- dulla. The stronger division of the graft is then to be pared thin at its lower extremity, and introduced, as in crown grafting, between the bark and wood of the stock; and the more slender divi- sion is fitted to the stock upon the op- posite side. “The graft, consequently, stands astride the stock, to which it attaches itself firmly upon each side, and which it covers completely in a single season. Grafts of the apple and pear rarely ever fail in this method of grafting, which may be practised with equal success with young wood inVuly, as soon as it has become moderately firm and ma- ture.°—Theory of Horticulture. The other modes of grafting require no description, but will be best under- stood by a reference to the following sketches. | Cleft Grafting. Fig. 66. Side Grafting. Fig. 67. \ ‘ 259 GRA’ ——s—— almost exclusively in Here-| Chink or Shoulder Grafting. Fig. 68. Root Grafting. Fig. 69. By whatever mode the operation be performed, the essentials for success are, 1. That the same a parts of the stock and ae pi scion should he brought AUB P ATION: into contact as much as ° possible —bark to bark, Fig. 70. and alburnum to albur- num. 2. .That as the nourishment has to be afforded to the graft from the alburnum of the stock with which it is brought in contact, this should not be exposed to the air for one minute longer than is necessary to insert the previously prepared graft, for if the surface becomes dry in the slightest de- gree, vegetation on that part is perma- nently destroyed; and thirdly, that the air and wet should be excluded after the scion has been inserted, otherwise the dryness of the parts, or the dilution of the sap, will prevent the union. To effect the desired exclusion, the entire wound must be inclosed with grafting clay or grafting wax, the best recipes for which are these :— Grafting Clay is best made of two parts cow-dung; three parts common clay ; and one part awns or beards of barley, kneaded together thoroughly. Grafting Wax.—Moist bast is usually employed for closing the wound of the ‘|stock, but it is far preferable to use worsted, and over this a coating of the grafting wax, made according to the following recipe :— Burgundy pitch . . . 1 oz. Common pitch a Yellow war "2 0 OS Tallow or-lard’’ sl 4F2° FS GRA 260. GRA —_o—- Nitre (carbonate of potaeh powdered) " The same composition spread upon slips of linen makes Grafting Plaster, frequently used by amateur budders. GRAMMANTHES chloreflora. Stove annual. Seeds. Loam and lime rubbish, GRAMMATOPHYLLUM. Twospe- cies. Stove orchids. Division. Wood. GRANGERIA borbonica, Stove ever- green tree. Cuttings. Peat and loam. GRAPE-VINE (Vitis vinifera). Of this fruit ninety-nine varieties-are culti- vated in the Chiswick Garden. Open-wall culture. — Varieties best suited for this, according to the experi- ence of Mr. Hoare, are :— Black Hamburgh. Black Prince. Esperione. Black Muscadine. Miller’s Burgundy. Claret Grape. Black Frontignan. Grizzly Frontignan. White Frontignan. White Muscadine. Malmsey Muscadine. White Sweetwater. Eighty-six of the varieties have been cultivated at Wilbeck within the last seven years, but only about fourteen found of superior excellence, and many’ of the others were mere synonymes. Mr. Tillery, from this long course of ex- perience and observation, recommends the following selections :— “‘ For the Earliest House.—The Pur- ple Constantia, or Frontignan; White Frontignan; Black Prince; Dutch, or Stillward’s Sweetwater; Black Ham- burgh; and Tripoli. ‘¢ For Stove. — White Muscat of Alexandria; Purplé Constantia; White Frontignan; Grizzly Frontignan ; Black Muscat; and Black Damascus. ‘6 For Green-house. — Black Ham- burgh; Tripoli; Grove-end Sweetwa- ter; and Muscadine. ‘‘ For Latest House-—West’s St. Pe- ter’s, and Charlesworth’s Tokay. ‘“‘ For a Single House with fourteen rafters.—One Purple Constantia; one White Frontignan; one Royal Musca- dine, or Chasselas D’Arboyce; three Muscats; three Black Hamburghs, or Tripolis; three West’s St. Peter’s; and two Black Princes. _ For Pot-Culture, to cover in during April and May.—Purple Constantia and White Frontignan.’?—United Gar. Jour. Until recently but few houses for the exclusive growth of grapes under glass, had been erected in the United States. The success which attended the effort in the vicinity of Philadelphia, Boston, and other cities, has excited emulation, and at this day (1847) one of the most attractive features of our Horticultural exhibitions, are grapes grown under glass, not exclusively through the agen- cy of fire-heat, but in many instances by the aid of the glass alone. Propagation.—Layering is the most certain and most expeditious mode of propagating the grape-vine. In the first part of March cut away the fourth bud of the shoot to be layered, pass the shoot through the hole in the bottom of garden-pot, fill this with light rich earth, so that the wound of that fourth bud is in the centre of the earth, and two buds above its surface; fix the pot firmly to the wall, so as not to be disturbed; keep the earth constantly moist with liquid manure, giving a little every day, and a little moss tied over the surface and round the sides of the pot to check evaporation. Cut away the layer from the parent in the last week of August ; and, turning it out from the pot, with- out at all disturbing the earth, plant it where it is to remain, and water it plentifully with liquid manure until the leaves begin to fall. Cuttings. —At the time of autumn- pruning select some middle-sized, well- ripened shoots, cut off lengths of six buds, keep them in moist sand through the winter, and, at the end of March, cut them in half, remove the two lower buds, and plant them under a wall hay- ing an eastern aspect, leaving the upper bud just above the surface, and cover- ing them with a hand-glasss The soil must be light, rich, and well pulverized, pressed close round the cuttings, and kept constantly moist with liquid manure until the leaves fall in autumn. The surface round them should be stirred at least twice a week to allow the air unimpeded entrance. Coiling is only a peculiar mode of propagating by cuttings suggested by Mr. Mearns, whose practice has been epitomised thus by Dr. Lindley:—. ‘¢ In the propagation of vines by coil- ing, Mr. Mearns? practice, if single rods GRA are contemplated, is not to leave them longer than four or five feet, and to re- move al] the buds but the uppermost. These rootless cuttings are coiled into long narrow pots, being so placed that the bud of the apex of the shoot, al- though the highest part, is still two inches beneath the surface of the soil; at the same time sufficient room is left beneath the coil for the roots to extend themselves. These cuttings being put in between the middle of January and the end of March, are plunged at once into a hot-bed between 90° and 1000, where they remain until they require more pot-room. They are then shifted, and placed in a suitable situation until again excited in November or December. When the cutting begins to grow, the shoot is trained upright, until it is seven or eight or ten joints long, when the top is pinched off. After this stopping the laterals are displaced as they appear; and if the vines have done well, two or three of the buds will also be excited at the same time, in which case the shoots are cut down to the lowest ex- cited eye. The single shoot is then trained upright and divested of all late- rals and tendrils. None of the plants are allowed to grow longer than from four to six feet, at which length the tops are pinched off, the uppermost lateral, which is also stopped at the first joint, being left to carry off the remaining sap. | ‘¢ At this season the plants are re- moved to a warm and sheltered situa- tion in the open air; and when the leaves fall they are headed down to one, two, or three joints, according to their strength, and are placed against a northern aspect. When cold weather sets in they are taken back to a shel- tered spot, and plunged in the ground to protect the roots, the pots being mulched over, and the rods covered to protect them from frost. ‘* When these yearling potted vines are brought early into action, it is re- commended to bow a piece of wire above the pot with both its ends run- ning down the inside, of sufficient height to allow the whole length of the stem to be attached to it, as represented in the accompanying figure. *¢ The buds from the stem being thus bent, break more regularly; and when this is effected the vine is united, and secured to an upright stake or sloping 261 ve trellis. To prevent evaporation the stem is wrapped loosely in moss, which is kept constantly moist until the grapes are set, when itisremoved. The plants, up to this period, are encouraged by bottom-heat and shifting; and the quan- tity of fruit is regulated by the size of the pot and the quality of the vine.»— Gard. Chron. Seed.—To raise new varieties seed from the largest, earliest, and best rip- ened berries must be separated from their pulp, and kept until the February following; then to be sown in * pots filled with light fresh mould, and plunged in a moderately warm hot-bed. They wil] come up in four or six weeks; and when the plants are about six inches high, they should be transplanted singly into forty-eights, and afterwards into pots of larger size. ‘*Water gently as circumstances re- quire; allow abundance of light and air, and carefully avoid injuring any of the leaves. Cut down the plants every autumn to good buds, and suffer only one of these to extend itself in the fol- lowing spring. Shift into larger pots, ‘as oecasion requires, till they have produced fruit. This, under good ma- nagement, will take place in the fourth or fifth year, when the approved sorts should be selected, and the rest de- stroyed, or used as stocks on which to graft or inarch good sorts.’*—Enc. of Gard. If a hybrid grape be required, the stamens of the female parent must be cut away with very sharp-pointed scis- sors before their anthers have burst, GRA and the pollen be applied to the stigma from the male desired to be the other parent. No very superior varieties have yet rewarded those who have attempted thus to improve the grape. Budding. — A good authority thus states his mode :— ‘¢ About the first week in March I perform the operation: or, as soon as I perceive the sap begin to rise, I cut from a branch, about three inches in length, an eye having attached as much wood as I could possibly get with it; at each end of the eye, I cut off about a quarter of an inch of the upper bark, making the ends quite thin; I next mea- sure off the exact length of the bud, on the base of the vine intended to be budded, and make a nick slanting up- ward at the upper part, and another slanting downward at the bottom. I then take the piece neatly out, so that the bud may fit nicely in; and by mak- ing the nick as stated above, each end of the bud is covered by the bark of the shoot. I bind the buds firmly round with matting, and clay it, taking care, however, that the clay does not cover the eye of the bud: I then tie it round with moss, and keep it constantly damp ; and as the sap rises in the vine, the bud begins to swell. ‘¢ When the vine commences to push out young shoots, take the top ones off, in order to throw a little more sap into the bud, and as you perceive it getting stronger, take off more young shoots, and so continue until you have taken off all the young shoots. Budding can only be performed where the long-rod system is practised, as in that case you have the power of confining the sap to the bud, which will grow vigorously. -As soon as you perceive this, cut the vine down tothe bud. Budding has the advantage over grafting, by not leaving an unsightly appearance where the bud was inserted. I always allow the mat- ting to remain on until about the month of September.”’ Grafting.—‘‘The best method,” says Dr. Lindley, ‘‘ of grafting vines is to shorten the branch, or shoot, at the winter pruning to the most eligible place -for inserting the graft. The graft should be kept in sufficiently moist soil till the time of performing the operation, and for a‘week previous in the same tem- perature as that which the vines to be operated upon are growing. 262 —— GRA «¢ When such portions of the latter as are shortened for receiving the grafts have made a bit of shoot, graft as you would other fruit trees, taking care to preserve the shoot at the top in claying, and until the buds on the scion have pushed, then shorten it back. Inarching may be performed any time after the vines have started, so far as to bleed.”? —Gard. Chron. Mr. Knight, the late eminent pre- sident of the Horticultural Society, has left this record of his experiments on the same mode of propagation: — I conceived it probable that the success of the Roman cultivators in grafting their vines might arise from the selec- tion of grafts similar to their cuttings, and the result of the following experi- ment leads me to believe my conjecture to. be well founded.. I selected three cuttings of the Black Hamburgh Grape, each having at its base one joint of two years old of wood : these were inserted in, or rather fitted to branches of nearly the same size, but of greater age; and all succeeded most perfectly. The clay which surrounded the base of the grafts was kept ‘constantly moist, and the moisture thus supplied to the graft ope- rated very beneficially, at least, if it was not essential to the success of the operation. A very skilful gardener inmy vicinity, to whom I mentioned my inten- tion of trying the foregoing experiment, was completely successful by a some- what different method. He used grafts similar to mine, but his vine grew under the roof of the hot-house, in which sit- uation he found it difficult to attach such a quantity of clay as would supply the requisite degree of moisture to the graft; and he therefore supported a pot under each graft, upon which he raised the mould in heaps sufficiently high to cover the grafts and supply them with moisture. The grafts which I used consisted of about two inches old wood, and five of annual wood, by which means the junction of the new and old wood, at which point cuttings most rea- dily emit shoots and receive nutriment, was placed close to the head of the stock, and a single bud only was ex- posed to vegetate.”,—Knighi’s Papers. As the practice is rather precarious, I will add further, the observations of Mr. Braddick :—**I feel confident in stating that healthy vines may be suc- cessfully grafted with young wood of GRA 263 GRA ——__@—_—_. the preceding year’s growth, from the time that the shoots of the stocks which the grafts are to be put upon have made four or five eyes, until mid-summer, with every prospect of the grafts grow- ing, and without the least danger of the stocks suffering by bleeding. They may likewise be grafted with shoots of the same summer’s growth, worked in the rind of the young wood, from the time that the young bunches of grapes be- come visible on the stocks till July, out of doors, or till a month later under glass. The operation must not be per- formed later than the periods here spe- cified, because time is necessary for the young shoots of the graft to become hard and ripen before winter.’’—Hort. Soc. Trans. Single Eyes, or Buds.—Mr. Appleby gives the following directions for this mode of propagation: :-—‘** Take a single bud with about half an inch of wood on each side of it, and insert it in a pot four inches in diameter, filled with light rich soil, covering the bud half an inch, and pressing the earth firmly about it, place the pots in a bark bed, or dung bed covered with saw dust; either of these will do, provided the heat is moderate. It will soon shoot up above the soil and begin to send out roots; water very sparingly, for a time in- creasing the quantity as it requires it. Air is given on all mild days to make it become. stout and of a good colour. As soon as the roots reach the sides of the pots, shift into large pots, which operation may be done thrice during the growing season; it will require a stick to support it, and all the super- fluous leaves and tendrils removed ; ripen the wood by keeping as dry an atmosphere in the pit or frame as_pos- sible during the latter part of the sea- son, endeavouring to effect this without any reduction of temperature, which should average about 70° Fahrenheit. When the wood is sufficiently ripened, keep the plant in acool house or frame, just protected from frost until the plant- ing season.??—Gard. Chron. “WALL CULTURE. Aspect.—The object to be obtained is not only warmth, but shelter from the wind, which is injurious to the vine at all times of its growth. To secure this desideratum, the best aspect is S.E. Even E. by N. is a good aspect. Any westerly point or even due S., exposes the vine to the strong winds which pre- vail from the W. and S.W. Soil.—The best soil is a light, rich, sandy loam, eighteen inches deep, rest- ing on a drainage of twelve inches of bricklayers’ rubbish. Manures.—The richest manures, such as night-soil, blood, bone-dust, and butchers? offal, are most beneficial to vines, and should be added annually to the border in which they grow. During the time of their being in bloom, aslight trench in a circuit three feet from the stem should be opened, and the coun- tents of the house slop pail, soapy water, and urine, be poured into it daily. Walls, for the grape-vine, need never be higher than eight feet, and the more substantial the better, as they cool slowly in proportion to their thickness. They should be painted annually with a creamy mixture of one part lime and two parts soot, to fill up the nail holes, the harbours of insects, to destroy moss, and to increase the warmth of the wal]. Although a dark-coloured body radi- ates heat, and consequently cools more quickly than a similar body of a light colour, yet this is prevented if a proper screen is placed before it. (See Shelters.) A coping should project from the top of the wall four inches wide, if this be four feet high, and an additional inch for every foot of height. Pruning and Training. — The vine bears on wood one year old only, and this knowledge must control these ope- rations, for after a branch has borne it is of no further use; and in pruning, a chief object consequently, is to get rid of all the old wood that can be spared. As Mr. Clement Hoarse’s practice is founded upon this, I adopt his rules without any modification. He obtains, he says :—** All the fruit of a vine from a few shoots trained at full length, in- stead of from a great number of spurs ‘or short shoots. To provide these shoots the former bearers are cut down to very short spurs at the autumnal pruning, and at the same time a sufficient number of shoots are left at whole length to produce fruit in the following year; at the succeeding autumn these latter are cut down to very short spurs, and the long shoots that have pushed from the |spurs are trained at whole length as before, and so on annually in alternate GRA 264 GRA ——————— auccession. This method recommends itself by its simplicity, by the old wood of the vine being annually got rid of, by the smal] number of wounds inflicted in the pruning, by the clean and hand- some appearance of the vine, and by the great ease with which it is managed, in consequence of its occupying but a small portion of the wall. ‘Ist. In proning, always cut up- wards, and in a sloping direction. ‘62d. Always leave an inch of blank wood beyond the terminal bud, and Jet the cut be on the opposite side of the bud. ‘¢3d. Prune so as to leave as few wounds as possible, and Jet the surface of every cut be perfectly smooth. ‘¢4th. In cutting out an old branch, prune it even with the parent limb, that the wound may quickly heal. ‘¢ 5th. Prune so as to obtain the quan- tity of fruit desired on the smallest number of shoots possible. © 6th. Never prune in frosty weather, nor when.a frost is expected. ‘< 7th. Never prune in the months of March, April, or May. Pruning in either of these months causes bleeding, and occasions thereby. a wasteful and an in- jurious expenditure of sap. *¢ 8th. Let the general autumnal prun- ing take place as soon after the 1st of Oetober as the gathering of the fruit will permit. ‘¢ Lastly, use a pruning-knife of the best description, and let it be, if pos- sible, as sharp as a razor.??——Hoare on the Vine. In the spring neat after the planting, two buds only having been left, remove the one which shoots the most weakly, and rub off aJl others but that one selected to re- main as often as they ap- pear. Nail the shoot to the wall as often as it ex- tends six inches beyond the previous shred. In November cut the vine so as to leave only two buds. In the second spring ma- nage as before, and in the November cut down to three buds; the vine will then appear thus: Fig. 72. The third spring retain two shoots, treating as before. In September pinch off their tops, and in November prune them so as to retain some buds. Fig. 72. The fourth spring in February remove the 1, 2,4, 5, and 6 buds, bending the shoots down horizontally thus: Fig. 73. and training the shoots from buds 3 and 7 as there represented. Prune and train as before directed during the summer, removing also superfluous shoots, and in November cut back a and ¢ to about eight or twelve buds according to the strength of the vine; and 6 and dso as to leave only one bud on each. In the jifth spring train the shoots from these single buds in the same waving form as before. ‘ — Gard. Chron. Vines in Pots. — The first week in February is the best time for planting the cuttings of vines in pots, to remain in cultivation in them. If intended to be fruited next season, plant the cut- tings in thirty-twos, selecting well- ripened shoots, with only one plump bud, and cutting the shoot at each end down to about one inch and a half of the bud. Bury this bud in the earth, composed of equal parts of fresh light turfy soil and decayed leaves. Plunge in a bottom heat of 90°; temperature of frame 60° to 90°. In April, shift to the fruiting pots, twos or fours, accord- ing to the strength of plant desired. Soil, two parts light turfy loam, and one part old night-soil. Temperature, 60° to 80°. Place the pots so near the roof, that the shoots may be at once trained near the glass as they advance. Best length for the shoots, from four to six feet, ‘though they will bear even ten feet ; therefore stop each when a foot longer than required for next season. Manure water must be employed to sustain the growth of the vines, and every means adopted to ripen the wood. Early in September, the pots may be placed out of doors, on the north side of a wall, and laid on their sides, to hasten the vines into a state of rest. In November, they may be returned under glass, and forcing commenced to ripen a crop by the end of March. If strong, and grown in No. 2 pots, seven bunches may be left upon a Ham- burgh, eight upon a Muscadine, but upon weaker plants only about halt those numbers. Mr. W. Stothard, gardener at Chant- rey House, in 1841, gives these direc- tions :—** When the vines that are let into the house have reached the top of the rafters, instead of stopping the lead- ‘ing shoot,-as is commonly done, and often. too soon, which causes the eyes to burst, and renders them useless for the succeeding year, turn the shoot back, and having ready a pot of suitable size, ‘well drained and filled with fresh turfy loam and rotted dung, of equal parts, place it upon the back shelf or wall of the pit, and as soon as the young shoot has attained a sufficient length to be laid into the pot, cut out two or three GRA 268 GRA —_@——_. eyes, and as many of its leaves, and scrape off a little of the bark the whole length of the part intended for roots, which is bent into the pot, and covered with mould to the depth of six or seven inches. No attention is required, ex- cepting to train the shoot as it advances in growth, and keep the mould in the pot a little moist, to encourage the emission of roots, which will appear in a fortnight or three weeks, and soon fill the pot. When the shoot is laid in the pot, allow it to grow from four to eight feetlong, according tothe strength of the parent vine, to which leave it attached until it has-done growing, and perfectly ripened its wood. ‘Should there not be a sufficient quantity of leaders, place pots under the rafters at mostconvenient situations, and likewise on the front flue; but the shoots that are laid in these pots never suffer to exceed five feet in length. When the plants are severed from the parent vines, put them out under a wall, where they are protected from frosts, and take into the house as required for forcing; at that time shift into pots about a foot over and fourteen inches deep, to remain until the fruit is cut, after which they may be thrown away, sure of a fresh supply of plants every year by the same process.’? — Gard. Chron. Mr. H. Burn, gardener of Tottenham Park, gives the following particulars of his mode of cultivating the vine in pots: —‘‘ I invariably set the eyes in thumb pots on the first of February, and putting moss about two and a half inches deep on the flue at the back of the pine pits, I place the pot upon it, keeping the moss always moist. «¢ As soon as the bud or eye hasgrown and become well furnished with roots, I repot into sixty-sized pots, and con- tinue afterwards to shift as fast as the pots become filled with roots; from sixties to forty-eights, thirty-twos, twen- ty-fours, sixteens, and twelve-sized pots successively; and lastly, into bushel- pots, which I have made for the purpose. I encourage rapidity of growth as much as possible, by feeding them with liquid manure made from cows’ and deers’ dung ; and during the whole time keep a good drainage at the bottom of the pots. The soil I used is nothing more than three-fourths strong turfy loam, and one-fourth horse-dung; from the linings of the pine pits select the most decayed parts of the manure. **T usually allow the shoots to run to the extent of thirteen eyes, and then stop them. ‘¢ By the middle of September the wood becomes ripened, and I then prune them back to the ninth eye, and remove them from the pinery to the open air, setting them under a south wall, on bricks placed edgewise, so as to admit free drainage. On the first of November, I generally take in fifty-pots for forcing; (this I have occasionally done on the first of October ;) when they are washed with soft soap and sulphur. ‘¢ After all the eyes have shown fruit, I select from six to eight of the best bunches to remain, and pluck off the others, never allowing one eye to bear more than one bunch. I syringe the vines gently with warm water three times a week, and water them twice a week with the liquid manure. Should they, however, occasionally require more moisture, I give them nothing more than soft water about milk warm. I invariably fruit annually from 100 to 120 vines, taking in after the first fifty the rest in succession. Fig. 74. | =| | ea “The above engraving represents a transverse section of the vinery, with bed for tree leaves to decay and heat; frame-work for the support of front trough sixteen inches wide at the top, and ten inches deep, and the wire un- der the rafters on which the vines are trained.» — United Gard. and Land Steward’s Journ. nd GRA 269 GRA —¢— _ Vines in Frames.—We have the fol- lowing information on this mode of cul- ture :—‘‘ It is well adapted for gardens where the quantity of glass is limited, and is practised by Mr. Dawson, gar- dener to Lord Ducie, at the Hoo, Hert- fordshire. About the first week in April, a bed of partly decayed dung, to which asmall quantity of raw material is add- ed,so as to produce a slight heat, is made at about eighteen inches from the wall in front of the selected vines. . © This bed is built sufficiently deep to admit of its being about three feet high, after settling. The frame used by Mr. Dawson separates into two portions, so that the lower part can be first placed upon the bed. It contains.a trellis upon which the vines are trained, fixed about a foot above tbe surface of the dung. The upper portion of the frame can be afterwards put on and secured to the lower by small brackets. The advan- tage of having the frames constructed in this way is the ease and safety with which the vine can be taken in; since, in introducing the shoots of a vine through a hole cut in the back of a frame of ordinary construction, the buds would be liable to be rubbed off. No more care is required, except in stopping, thinning, &c. Air is given freely, but no linings to the bed are re- quired. In severe weather a covering is put on, but this is not generally re- sorted to. By pursuing the above me- thod, fruit of good quality has been cut by the latter end of August, for which Mr. Dawson has obtained several prizes at local horticultural exhibitions.°— Gard. Chron. - DISEASES. Shanking is a moist gangrene, at- tacking and destroying the stalk of the grapes, arising apparently from the tem- perature of the soil being unsuitably below that in which the branches are vegetating. Warts on Leaves.—Dr. Lindley says, ‘¢ The appearance of warts on their under side, is most probably caused by damp atmosphere and rich soil, and may be conceived to arise thus: the water which the leaves derive from the stem, and absorb from the atmosphere, is unable to escape again, in conse- quence of the air that surrounds them being continually loaded with moisture; the result of this is, that the water ac- cumulates in the interior of the leaves, and swells them up in the form of warts. The presence of the latter on the under side only, is owing to perspiration from the vines, taking place principally by that surface, which is, moreover, much softer and looser in texture than the upper surface.’’—Gard. Chron. Rust.—The rust of the vine isa dis- ease which attacks the grapes, covering them with a tough brown skin, which is incapable of natural extension, and which stops their growth. Wherever the disease appears, the crop is injured or even ruined. Various causes have been suggested as the origin of this disease ; but the true origin I believe to be a sudden unhealthy reduction of temperature whilst the grapes are young. From one frosty night I have seen the fruit of apple trees infected with a very similar induration of the skin. Bleeding.—If pruned late in the spring the vine is very liable to bleed at this season. A red hot iron applied to the wound until it is partially charred will stop the effusion of sap for a time, and to render the cure permanent, the place should be well rubbed and coated with a paste made of newly burnt lime and grease. This hardens and forms an ef- fectual plaster. Shrivelling arises in the berries from a want of sap. It is caused by several modes of bad cultivation, as excess of wet and cold to the roots; over-heating and subsequent reduction of tempera- ture in the house; and by thinning the leaves erroneously. Insects infesting the Vine.—See Scale, Thrips, Wasp, &c. GRAPE HYACINTH. Muscari. GRAPE PEAR. Amelanchier Bo- tryapium. GRASS MOTH. See Chareas. GRASS-PLOT, correctly speaking, is a parterre, or beds of flowers, arranged with grass-turf between them, instead of gravel. It is usually confounded with Lawn, which see. GRASS RAKE. See Lawn Rake. GRATIOLA. Six species. Hardy or green-house herbaceous perennials. Division. Rich moist soil. GRAVEL WALKS, like all other Walks, (vide,) require a good substratum of drainage, and the facing of about five inches deep of gravel. It must have no stones mixed with it larger than good- GRA 270 GRE ————— sized marbles, and about one-fourth of it must be much smaller. If a portion of clay is by nature or art incorporated with the gravel, it will bind more firmly, and present when rolled a more com- act and even surface. The following is an excellent plan to make or turn gravel walksin dry weather. If of a sandy or gravelly nature strew a little clay or marl upon the walks. When turned over take away all large stones, and place them at the bottom of the mass. Immediately after you have le- velled the walk apply the roller, and let an assistant follow, pouring upon it wa- ter from a watering pot with coarse rose; in twenty-four hours after, if the wea- ther is dry, it will be as solid as a stone floor. The writer has had ocular de- monstration of the fact in twenty in- stances in the driest weather.—Gard. Chron. The best method of extirpating grass which springs up from beneath a gravel walk and spreads over its surface, is to break up the walk, and pick out care- fully all the under-ground runners which may be met with. Where it is not de- sirable to disturb the walk, the best way is to spread salt in considerable quantities over its whole surface ; and if after the first application it is found that portions of the grass still exist, let another coating of salt be applied, which will effectually destroy it. Care must be taken, however, if the walk is edged with box, that the salt does not come in contact with it, otherwise it will destroy the edging also. ‘In the early part of April, gravel walks are usually turned; and practice has taught that there is a right as well as a wrong way, even for the perform- ance of this simple operation. After the walk has been broken up and level- led, and a facing of new gravel spread over, this ought to be left for three or four days, and until a shower of rain has fallen, before the roller is used. This bleaches the gravel, and washes down the fine particles, so that, imme- diately after rolling, the walk is solid, and has a clean bright surface.””—Gard. Chron. Dr. Lindley has proposed a substi- tute for gravel in the construction of walks, which will get rid of most of the annoyances attendant upon gravel; and will never require rolling. They may be made of the same arched form; and if, at the time of making, the surface be sprinkled with fine bright coloured gravel, they will be as handsome as if formed entirely of that material. The composition recommended must be made and laid down in perfectly dry weather. s¢ Procure a quantity of road-sand, or similar powdery material—finely sifted lime-rubbish will do—and let it be tho- roughly dried, so that it feels like dust when handled: also sift out ofthe cinders from the dwelling-house, &c., the finer parts, and let these be also made per- fectly dry; mix these carefully, two parts road-sand’ to one of ashes. Ina dry place, on a dry day, spread a quan- tity of the mixture, as a bricklayer spreads his lime, with a hollow in the middle. Into this hollow pour some coal-tar, boiling hot. Incorporate the whole with a shovel, as if making mor- tar, and when a thick paste, spread it three or four inches thick over the ground, laid out for the walk or fluor. The ground should previously be beaten’ down as firm and as level as possible. Powder it all over with dry and rather coarse sand, after which a few passages of the roller will press it level. Leave it for a few days to harden, after which the walk is fit for use, and will last for very many years.””—Gard. Chron. GREAT BURNET. Sanguisorba. GREAT CENTAUREA. Centaurea centaurium. GREEN-HOUSE. This is a winter- residence for plants that cannot endure the cold of our winter, yet do not re-. quire either the high temperature or moist atmosphere of a stove [@. e. hot- house]. ao <¢ The first thing to be attended to in its construction,’ says Mr. H. Fortune, of the Chiswick Gardens, ‘‘ is the choice of a proper situation. South is the best aspect, or as nearly that as possible: south-west or south-east will do, or even east or west ; but on no account should it ever face the north. Green-houses should be fixed in situations where they will not be shaded from the sun by any part of the dwelling-house, or other buildings, and should also be quite free from large trees. They should not be placed near trees for another reason for, formed of this material, they will|than being shaded by them, namely, never be troubled by worms or weeds, | the glass in the roof being apt to be GRE broken by the rotten branches which are sent down during high winds. ** Another most desirable considera- tion is, to make arrangements for a constant supply of rain-water. This is very easily done when the house is building. Gutters are wanted to carry the wet off the roof; and, in so doing, letit be brought into a tank in the house, and used for watering the plants. -Slate- tanks may be used for this purpose, or they may be built of brick and cement- ed over on the inside. This will be economy in the end; and the water collected in this way is much to. be preferred to many kinds obtained from springs. ‘¢ A drain should be made to enable the tank to be emptied at pleasure, and into which the water used in washing ‘out the house can be swept, without running into the tank.”—Gard. Chron. _ The following is the plan of a green- house erected at Yester, the seat of the Marquis of Tweedale, and which an- swers perfectly. ‘In ordinary severe weather, while the thermometer, in the open air during night, ranges between 20° and 30°, no difficulty is found in keeping the tem- perature to any point required between 50° and 80°, which is quite sufficient. The stove is heated with coke; and during a period while the thermometer ranged between 60° and 76°, the cost did not exceed 2s. 6d. per month. The fuel consumed during the time was ten bushels. We do not know what is the principle of the stoye, but it resembles an Arnott, and stands within the house, which is twenty-five feet long, twelve feet broad, and thirteen feet high. *¢a a, back wall; 6 6, mouths of cold air stove,d; ee,a few descending steps by which it is supplied from the outside with fuel, through an opening in the wall, as shown in the plan. On the same level there is a place, f, for con- taining coke, as represented by the dotted lines; g g is a brick casing, Fig. 75. f GY a] / 4 == BASS 71 GRE formed in lengths of two feet each, and neatly joined together; they are open at top, and have movable covers. In- to this casing the heated air from the stove is first received, and afterwards distributed at pleasure. In addition to the heat given off in this way, the brick casing, from retaining the hot air, toge- ther with the flue-pipe passing through it, becomes so hot as to give off a large quantity in a radiating form. ‘In the figure, two of the flue covers are removed to show the surface of the iron water-troughs, fitted on the flue- pipe, and resting on the bottom of the brick-casing, better seen in the sectional view. The troughs are only filled with the heated air when it is wanted in a humid condition; in other cases the humidity from the cistern A, which sup- plies water for the ordinary purposes of the house, will be sufficient; ¢ and j are wood wedges inserted on one side of the covers to raise them, more or less, in proportion to the quantity of heat.required: & is the termination of the flue-pipe, where it ascends, crossing the house above the door, and entering the back wall into the chimney. When the house is to be heated, it is only ne- cessary to light the fire in the stove d, and open one of the-cold air-drains bc, as in the present instance the internal one, 6,is open. The arrows represent the cold air flowing towards the stove, where it enters below, and after travers- ing a numerous formation of winding channels in a heated state, discharges itself into the brick-casing, g g, above the flue-pipe, from which it escapes as heretofore mentioned. ‘¢ When the cold air is taken from the external drain, c, the internal one, b, is closed; a regulation, however, which is entirely at the discretion of the superintendent of the house: 7, the regulator in the ash-pit of the stove, the handle of which is turned so as to admit a greater or less quantity of air, by which the combustion of fuel in the stove is regulated: s s and mm, venti- lating grates; 27, rods of iron sus- pended to the frames of the top win- dows to open and shut them; g, a sys- tem of small rods for conveying the drip from, the inside of the roof to the cistern, h; p, cover of stove-pit: it is hinged, and readily thrown back when admission to the stove is wanted. ‘‘For ordinary-sized plant or fruits houses, the above method of heating will be found quite sufficient. Where very large structures are required to be heated, any additional quantity may be procured by means of hot water- pipes supplied from a boiler placed within the patent stove. The pipes may be conveyed in a different direction from the hot-air flue. The boiler, al- though heated with the stove-furnace, requires no additional fuel.°?— Gard. Chron. On a larger scale is the green-house at Kew; but as the same principles and arrangements may be adopted on a smaller scale, I give the following ex- tracts from the details published by Dr. Lindley :— ‘¢ The general arrangement is excel- ent. None of the door-ways are placed in direct continuation of the walls; but they are either formed immediately op- posite the principal masses of plants, or obliquely with respect to the walks ; so that the eye necessarily rests upon the foliage as soon as the house is entered. ‘¢ Then, again, at the point where the houses join each other, a semicircular stage is thrown forward, by which the disagreeable effect of a long narrow walk, in a small house, is completely removed. ‘¢ The house jis span-roofed, and illus- trates the great advantage of this kind of construction over the wretched lean- tos, which were formerly in fashion. We need not say that. one of the ad- vantages of a span-roofed house is, that plants are exposed to light in all direc- tions: but, all-important as is that pro- | 272 ——r GRE perty, it by no means forms the only valuable feature in them. Plants can be easily reached and easily removed ; the appearance of the interior is very much improved, and no space is wasted. In a common glass shed, at least one half is useless—that is to say, the whole of that part which is next the back wall. Here, on the contrary, every portion of the interior, except the walks, is ren- dered available. ; ‘¢ The construction of the roof js excellent. It rises at an angle of 300, which is exactly that best suited for houses of such a description; the rafj- ers are very light, and of a better form than any we have previously seen. We wil] not pretend to say why they pro- duce so good an effect; for words will never convey an adequate idea of the cause of the beauty of such objects. Perhaps it is their lightness; probably it is the two combined. Lightness of appearance has been combined with strength by the addition of an iron rod to the lower edge of the rafter, in the piace of a head. ‘¢ In order to strengthen the roof and to provide for the cultivation of climb- ers, all the rafters are connected by means of curved iron rods, which them- selves add much to the beautiful ap- pearance of the interior. This mode of combining strength and decoration may of course be varied, but it will not be improved. ‘¢ Another important thing in the ar- rangements is the ample provision for receiving in tanks the rain-water that falls on the roof of the building: this is raised for use by means of small hand-pumps. “©Tt must be apparent that such a house as this is precisely what is most generally wanted by those who build green-houses. If a-Jarge space is re- quired, it is easy to lengthen any of the arms; if more variety is desired, another cross house could be readily added to the smaller one. Should it be too large, as will more frequently be the case, the smaller arm may be co- pied or the larger, as the case may be. If a stove is wanted instead of a green- house, it would only be necessary to inclose the stages, to put hot water troughs into the chamber so obtained, and to add evaporating-pans to the pipes which are earried round the walls. “‘In short, it appears to us that in GRE this one house are contained illustra- tions of all the more important objects which are in the majority of cases to be attained in green-house building. “¢ It should be added, that the upright sides of the house are glazed with panes of sheet-glass, in one length; and that each of the roof sashes has but two panes in its length; this no doubt adds very much to its beautiful appearance.??— Gard. Chron. ~ The plan given of the green-house at Yester is a lean-to, but the same system of heating is adaptable to a span-roofed house. This form is to be preferred on many accounts. Thus, as the practice is most injurious to have the tempera- ture of the hot-house too elevated dur- ing the night, so no less injurious, in winter, is it to permit tender plants in the green-house or elsewhere, which may have been subjected to a freezing temperature, to be suddenly exposed to a higher degree of heat. Experience has placed it beyond dispute that such plants should be shaded from the sun, and thus returned very slowly to a more genial temperature. So convinced by experiment of the importance of secur- ing plants in green-houses from sudden transitions is Mr. Macnab, the curator of the Caledonian Horticultural Socie- ty’s garden, that he has those structures ranging north and south,and consequent- ly with a western and eastern aspect. They have two aspects, because he has ' them with span roofs, instead ofthe old lean-to form. For green-houses, but not for forcing, there is no doubt that this form is to be preferred ;-and Mr. M?Nab thus enumerates its advantages: ** In aspan-reofed house the circulation of air may be constantly kept up so as effectually to prevent damp. Forsucha green-house fire heat is scarcely at all required; for, if there be a free circu- lation of air during the autumn and winter months, and if the tables and shelves be carefully kept dry and clean, _water being sparingly given to such plants only as require it, cold, even descending to freezing occasionally the surface of the soil, will do less injury than the application of fire heat to most plants. In the case of plants frozen in a lean-to house, and others in a span- rocfed house extending north and south, the consequences were much the least injurious in the latter, for in it the in- sa of the sun was much less felt; 1 273 Se GRE as he proceeded towards the meridian, the astragals and rafters formed a shade, and air being given, the plants survived and soon recovered; in the lean-to house they blackened and perished.” GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. DWARFS SUITABLE FOR BEDDING IN THE HOUSE. Acacia armata. Chorozema varium. . Sollya heterophylla. Templetonia glauca. Pultenea daphnoides. Statice arborea. Pimelea decussata. Oxylobium retusum. Loddigesia oxalidifolia. Epacris grandiflora. — impressa. Correa speciosa. Euchilus obcordatum. Hovea Celsi. : Chironia frutescens. Diosma rubra. Eutaxia myrtifolia. Eriostemon buxifolium. Dillwynia floribunda. Boronia denticulata. Genista canariensis. Polygala oppositifolia. Coleonema tenuifolia. Lambertia formosa. CLIMBERS FOR THE BACK WALL. Clematis azurea grandiflora. — Sieboldi. Cobea scandens. Maurandya Barclayana. Kennedya Metryalte. SELECT PLANTS FOR THE SHELVES. Boronia pinnata, serrulata, and anemo- nefolia.. . - Polygala oppositifolia and cordifolia. Gardoquia Hookeri. Roelia ciliata. Hovea celsi and pungens. Chorozema varium, Dicksoni, and ' Henchmanni. Mirbelia floribunda. Aphelexis humilus. Pimelea spectabilis, decussata, and hispida. Bossicea linophylia. Eutaxia myrtifolia. Dillwynia floribunda. Luculia gratissima. Leschenaultia formosa and biloba. Coleonema tenuifolia. GRE 274 GRE —_@——- Genista canariensis. Lilium Jancifolium and its varieties. Sprengeliaincarnata and Croweasaligna, | Sollya linearis. together with the different kinds of | Leschenaultia formosa. Acacia. Cures GREEN-HOUSE BULBS. Camellia. Oxalis Bowei and versicolor. Azalea, &c. Lachenalia tricolor. Sparaxis tricolor and grandiflora. Tritonia palida, crispa, and squalida. Ixia patens, a aristata, and crocata. Watsonia fulgida. Hypoxis elegans. Climbers may consist of— Kennedya Maryette. Hardenbergia monophylla and macro- phylla. Sollya linearis. Gompholobium polymorphum. Zichya glabrata. _ Green-house plants are chiefly kept Tropeopium brachyceras, Bega and | in pots or tubs for moving them into aznreum. shelter in winter, and into the open air Mandevillia suaveolens. in summer; for being all exotics from Dolichos lignosus. warmer parts of the world, they are not Clematis azurea grandiflora. able to live in the open air in the Veronica speciosa. winter. ' : Chorozema varium nanum. Most of them will prosper in any Pimelia spectabilis. good rich garden earth. Some sorts, Hovea pungens. however, require a particular compost. Leschenaultia grandiflora. As to the pots and tubs to contain the Mirbelia dilatata. plants, they must be of different sizes, Statice Dickensoni. according to that of the plants; and Tropcolum azureum. when these become too large for pots, Tetranema mexicanum. they must be shifted into tubs, hooped Habrothamnus fasciculatus. with iron, and with handles at top to — cyaneus. each, of the same metal. See Flower Boronia crenulata. Pots and Potting. : Beiastemon. buxifolinum. Removing into the open air.—All the Gompholobium versicolor. sorts succeed in the open air from May Tecoma jasminoides rosea. or beginning of June until October ; but Echeveria secunda. ie October hepa pee again i R they require the shelter of the green- stat aie da ea foie The varieties of Myrtle, Gerani- SWEET-SCENTED GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS./| um, Oleander, Cistus, Phlomis, Shrubby Aloysia citriodora. Aster, Tree Wormwood, Tree Candy Daphne odora. Tuft, Yellow Indian and Spanish Jas- Gardenia radicans. mines, Indian Bay, are the first that will Jasminum grandiflorum. bear removal into the air; and in June, Luculia gratissima. accordingly as the season proves more Heliotrope. or less favourable, bring forth all the Common Orange, of which the Brigadier | others. But this should not be done multiflora is one of the best. until there is a fair prospect of summer being settled. GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS) FLOWERING IN It is a good observation that when the sales isch Mulberry tree begins to expand its Hedychium Gardinerianum (which does | leaves this is a certain sign of the ap- best when planted in the border of| proach of summer, and settled weather | the house). _ | fit to begin moving out most sorts of Mimulus glutinosus. - | green-house exotics. A mild warm day Leonotis Leonurus. should be chosen for this work, and if Bouvardia splendens. during a warm rain it will be of much Achimenes longiflora. advantage, as it will wash the leaves Chironia frutescens. and branches, and greatly refresh the Swainsonia galegifolia. plants. — alba. When they are first brought out it is Mandevilla suaveolens. proper to place the plants in some shel- GRE 275 GRE jp tered sunny place for a fortnight, till they are inured to the open air, and then in any open exposure, where they are designed to remain for the summer. As soon as they are brought out let them be cleared from dead leaves and dead wood, and let the earth on the surface of the pots be stirred, taking a little of the old out and adding some fresh in its stead; then give a moderate watering, not only to the soil but also over the heads of the plants. Supply them with water during that season, in hot dry weather. All except the suc- culent will require it three times a week at least, and in a very hot dry season once a day will be requisite. The suc- culent kinds must also have a moderate supply of water twice a week in dry weather, observing that the proper time of the day for watering all the sorts at this season is either in a morning before nine o’clock, or in the afternoon after four or five. Moderate rains should not deter from watering, especially such plants as have spreading heads, as these prevent the rains, unless very heavy or constant, from falling in sufficient quan- tities on the earth of the pots to moisten it properly. In hot weather, if some mowings of short grass, or moss, which is neater, are spread on the surface of the Orange Tree tubs and others, it will greatly preserve the moisture. During the season loosen the surface of the earth occasionally. Removing into the Green-house.—To- ‘wards the latter end of September, or as soon as the nights become cold, be- gin to return into the green-house the more tender kinds, and especially the succulents should be removed to shelter at the first approach of excessive wet and cold nights. The Oranges, Lemons, and all the other species of Citrus, should also be moved into shelter in due time, either at the end of September or early in October. Continue moving in the others as the cold increases, and by the end of the month or first week of November bring in the whole collection; observing, ac- cording as the time approaches for moy- ing in the different sorts, to clear them perfectly well from decayed leaves, &c., and let all the pots be well cleaned, and loosen the surface of the earth in each pot, adding a little fresh soil. Their principal culture now will be, supplying them with fresh air at al! op- portunities in mild weather, and giving moderate waterings occasionally, pick- ing off decayed leaves as often as they appear, and making moderate fires in severe or foggy weather. When the plants are first housed, they should have as much free air as the nature of the season will admit, by opening the windows every mild day to their full extent; and if the air is quite temperate, they may remain open at nights for the first week: but in cold nights let them be constantly shut. This work of admitting air must be attended to all winter. The proper time of day, during the winter, for admission of air is from about eight, nine, or ten in the morn- ing till three in the evening, according to the mildness of the weather; but as the days lengthen and the warmer season advances, give more air in pro- portion earlier and later in the day, as you shall judge proper, being careful always to shut all close every evening as soon as the sharp air approaches. In foggy weather it is advisable to keep the windows quite close, for the great damp occasioned by fogs is very perni- cious to plants whilst they are confined in the house ; likewise in frosty weather keep the house close, unless the frost is moderate, and the middle of the day sunny and warm, when some of the windows may be opened a little, but shut close again if the sun is clouded. In severe weather let the shutters also be closed every night, and occasionally in severe days, and be particularly careful to water with great moderation whilst the plants remain in the green- house. A sunny day from about eleven to two o’clock, is then the proper time for watering. (Abercombie.) See January and other months for the routine work. GREEN MANURE is a mass of re- cently growing plants dug whilst green and fresh into the soil, for the purpose of enriching it; and it is a rule without any exception, that all fresh vegetable matters so turned into the earth do render it more fertile, and if plants are grown upon the soil for this purpose, the greater the amount of the surface of leaves in proportion to that of roots the better, because such plants obtain a large proportion of their chief constitu- GRE ent,—the chief constituent of all plants, carbon,—from the atmosphere: they, therefore, return to the soil more de- composing matter than they have taken from it. The putrefaction of the vegetables, and the gases in that case emitted, says my brother, Mr. Cuthbert Johnson, ‘¢ appear to be on all occasions highly invigorating and nourishing to the suc- ceeding crop. During this operation, the presence of water is essentially ne- cessary, and is most probably decom- posed. The gases produced vary in different plants; those which contain gluten emit ammonia; onions and a few others evolve phosphorus; hydrogen, carbonic acid gas, and carburetted hy- drogen gas, with various vegetable matters, are almost always abundantly formed. All these gases when mixed with the soil are very nourishing to the plants growing upon it. The observa- tions of the farmer assure us that they are so. He tells us that all green ma- nures cannot be employed in too fresh a state, that the best corn is grown where the richest turf has preceded it, and that where there is a good produce of red clover there will assuredly follow an excellent crop of wheat; he finds also that when he ploughs in his crop of buckwheat to enrich his land, that this is most advantageously done when the plant is coming into flower.??—Farm. Encyc. Sea Weed is a species of green ma- nure, for it ought to be employed whilst quite fresh. There are many species, and they differ very essentially in theircomponents. The Laurinarie, those long, tawny-green, ribbon-like alge so common on our coasts, contain besides vegetable matter a large pro- portion of the salts of potash in addition to those of soda ; whereas the Fuci con- tain none of the salts of potash. All, however, are excellent manures, and i know a garden, near Southampton, very productive, that for some years has had no other manure. It is particularly good as a manure for potatoes. The Fucus vesiculosus, so distinguishable by the bladders full of air embedded in its leaves, is a very excellent manure. It contains, when dry, about 84 parts ve- getable matter, 13 parts sulphate of lime and magnesia, with a little phos- phate of lime, and 3 parts sulphate and muriate of soda. 276 GRO The advantage of green manure is practically understood by thousands of our farmers, who, though they may be unable to philosophize upon the subject or refer to its true chemical cause, fully appreciate its value. The great desideratum of those who aim at enriching the soil, is to produce clover,—that attained, the rest is easy. Clover, when turned in, prepares the land for every description of crop, and places the whole under the control of the husbandman. GREVILLEA. Forty-two species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings, and some species, seeds. Sand, loam and peat. GRIFFINIA. Three species. Stove bulbous perennials. Offsets. Seeds. Turfy loam, white sand and peat. GRINDELIA. Nine species. Chiefly green-house evergreen shrubs. G. an- gustifolia and G. squamosa are herba- ceous perennials, and G. ciliata a hardy annual. Cuttings. Loam and peat. GRISLEA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy peat and loam. GROBYA Amhersti@. Stove orchid. Division. Wood. _ GROTTO, is a resting place, formed rudely of rock-work, roots of trees, and shells, and is most appropriately placed beneath the deep shade of woods, and on the margin of water. its inten- tion is to be a cool retreat during sum- mer. GROUND CHERRY. _ Cerasus Cha~ mecerasus. GROUND CHRISTA. Cassia Cha- mechrista. GROUND CISTUS. Rhododendron Chamecistus. GROVE, isa moderately extensive as- sociation of trees without underwood. ‘¢ The character of a grove is beauty ; for fine trees are lovely objects, and a grove is an assemblage of them, in. which every individual retains much of its own peculiar elegance, and whatever it loses is transferred to the superior beauty of the whole. To a grove, therefore, which admits of endless vari- ety in the disposition of the trees, differ- ences in their shapes and their greens are seldom very important, and sometimes they are detrimental. Strong contrasts scatter trees which are thinly planted, and which have not the connexion of underwood; they no longer form one ~ GRO 277 GUA ——— plantation ; they are a number of single trees. A thick grove is not, indeed, ex- posed to this mischief, and certain situ- ations may recommend different shapes and different greens for their effects up- on the surface. The eye, attracted into the depth of the grove, passes by little circumstances at the entrance; even varieties in the form of the line do not always engage the attention, they are not so apparent as in a continued thick- et, and are scarcely seen if they are not considerable. «¢But the surface and the outline are not the only circumstances to be attended to. Though a grove be beautiful as an object, it is, besides, delightful as a spot to walk or to sit in; and the choice and the disposition of the trees for effect within are therefore a principal consideration. Mere irregularity alone will not please, strict order is there more agreeable than absolute confusion, and some meaning better than none. A regular plantation has a degree of beauty; but it gives no satisfaction, be- cause we know that the same number of trees might be more beautifully ar- ranged. A disposition, however, in which the lines only are broken, with- out varying the distances, is less natural than any; for though we cannot find straight lines in a forest, we are habitu- ated to them in the hedge-rows of fields; but neither in wild nor in cultivated nature do we ever see trees equidistant from each other; that regularity be- longs to art alone. The distances, there- fore, should be strikingly different; the trees should gather into groups, or stand in various irregular lines, and describe several figures; the intervals between them should be contrasted both in shape and in dimensions ; a large space should in some places be quite open, in others the trees should be so close together as hardly to leave a passage between them ; and in others as far apart as the con- nexion will allow. In the forms and the varieties of these groups, these lines, and these openings, principally consists the interior beauty of a grove.’? —Whateley. atk GROWTH. It may be taken as a universal maxim in gardening, that slow growth and smallness of size increases the intensity of flavour, and that rapidity of growth and increase of size render flavour more mild. Fruit, therefore, should be ripened slowly, and be pre- ferred of a moderate size; but culinary vegetables should be grown rapidly, and of as gigantic a size as may be. GRYLLOTALPA. See Mole- Cricket. GUAIACUM. Three species. Stove evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Rich loam. GUANO. This now celebrated ma- nure has been known as the chief fer- tilizer employed by the Peruvians, almost as long as that. part of the New World. has been recognized by geo- graphers. Its name, in the language of that country, signifies the manure—and it merits such distinction, as being one of the most powerful assistants to vege- tation which can be applied to the soil. Guano is not peculiar to Peru, but is found in immense beds upon many rocks and islands of the Atlantic, being the excrements of the marine birds fre- quenting those ocean solitudes. It has been lately analyzed by Dr. Ure, who reports it as composed of the following proportional constituents :— Azotized organic matter, including urate of am- monia, and capable of] _ affording from 8 to 17 }50.0 per cent. of ammonia by slow gecompostn| im the-soil!”.. ce. ey Weer) 25 Na a Phosphate of lim site Ammonia, phosphate of) magnesia, phosphate of ammonia, and oxalate 43 0 of ammonia, contain- { “" ing from 4 to 9 per cent. | of ammonia Siliceous matter . . . 1.0 This analysis explains the source from whence failure has been derived to many who have tried it. It is the most violently stimulating of all the known natural manures, and they have applied it too abundantly. This is shown by the experiments of Mr. Maund. When 11.0 25.0 ‘applied to Strawberries once a week in a liquid state, (four ounces to a gallon,) it made them very vigorous and pro- ductive; but sprinkled upon some young seedlings of the same fruit it killed them. Two ounces per yard, (five cwt. per acre,) were sprinkled over Onions, and they doubled the untreated in size. Potatoes manured with one ounce anda half per yard, were rendered much more luxuriant than others having no 4 GUA 278 GEE —— guano. Brussels Sprouts were half destroyed by being planted in immedi- ate contact with nine parts earth and one part guano. Geraniums were greatly injured by liquid manure of guano, (four ounces per gallon,) but ‘¢ Plants of various sorts in pots, water- ed only with guano water, half an ounce to a gallon, have flourished astonish- ingly; none have failed. These are lessons which cannot be mistaken.??— Auctorium, 223. Mr. Rendle and other persons record, as the result of dearly- purchased experience, that where guano has failed to be beneficial, or has been in- jurious, it has been applied in quantities too powerful for the plants to bear. In a liquid state, half an ounce per gallon, and given to growing plants once a week, it never fails to be productive of vigour. There is reason to fear that all the advantages attributed to Guano, may not be realized. That it has pro- duced striking effects on certain crops cannot be questioned—especially on grass, wheat and Indian corn; but we are far from subscribing to the opinion of those who in their zealous praise of this new fertilizer, assert that it is cheaper to buy it, than haul manure from the barn-yard to the fields! There are many crops on which it appears to produce but little effect: The writer has used over two tons of what was reputed to be the best Peruvian guano, in experiments, chiefly on Kitchen garden vegetables carefully no- ting the quantity applied, mode, &c., but in nearly every instance without per- ceiving any important result.—Doubt- less much depends on the soil, and the presence or absence of those constitu- ents which abound in guano—where they already exist in the soil, in suf- ficient quantity, no benefit can result from its application. GUATTERIA. Fivespecies. Stove evergreen shrubs or trees. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. GUAVA. Psidium. GUAZUMA. Three species. evergreen trees. Joam. GUELDER ROSE. Viburnum opulus. GUERNSEY LILY. WNerine sar- niensis. Stove Cuttings. Peat and GUETTARDA. Seven species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Peat and loam. GUILANDINA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings or seeds. Sandy peat and loam. GUINEA-PEACH. Sarcocephalus. GUINEA-PLUM. Parinarium ezcel- sum. GUM ARABIC TREE. Acacia ara- GEE: 90 GUM CISTUS. Cistus Ladaniferus, GUM TREE. Eucalyptus robusta. GUMMING. See Exztravasated Sap. GUSTAVIA augusta. Stove ever- green tree. Cuttings. Rich soil. GUZMANNIA tricolor. Stove her- baceous perennial. Suckers. Rich mould. GYMNADENIA. Fourspecies. Hardy orchids. Division. Sandy loam and peat. GYMNEMA. Four species. evergreen twiners. Cuttings. and peat. GYMNOCLADUS canadensis. Hardy deciduous tree. Cuttings. Open loamy Stove Loam -soil. GYMNOGRAMMA. Fourteen species. Stove herbaceous perennials. Division. J.oam and peat. GYMNOLOMIA. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat. GYMNOSTACHYS anceps. Green- house herbaceous perennials. Suckers. Peat and loam. . | GYNANDROPSIS. Sixspecies. Hardy or stove annuals and biennials. Seeds. Sandy loam. GYPSUM, or Plaster of Paris, is a sulphate of lime, composed of— Sulphuricacid .... . 43 Lime. . .», +. soy) age Water .. ° yess, sae: It has been employed advantageously as a manure to the turnip and potato, at the rate of 3 cwt. per acre. Potato sets are frequently rolled in it when pulver-° ized. It has been recommended to be sprinkled in stables, and to be mixed with dunghills, ‘‘ to fix the ammonia,” as it is popularly termed. That am- moniacal fumes are given out from the urine of horses, and from decomposing dungheaps, is true; but it is quite as true, that sulphate of lime thus em- ployed will not detain a thousandth part of them, owing to the sulphuric acid having a greater affinity for the ammonia than for lime, and carbonic acid having a greater affinity for lime than for am- monia. And it is also true, that all the ammonia -lost in fumes from a dunghill GYB 279 HAL ne might be more readily and as cheaply restored to it by mixing with it, when dug into the soil, a little of the am- moniacal liquor from the gas works. Gypsum is extensively used in Pennsy]- vania and in many cases with the best results. For its introduction originally we are indebted to the late Judge Peters; from a “short notice”? of whom, by Samuel Breck, Esq., we extract the fol- lowing: ‘¢ As a practical farmer, Mr. Peters had from time to.time communicated the results of the experiments made at Belmont, to such of his neighbours as chose to profit by them; but he had not written much, if anything, upon agri- culture, before the year 1797. His first publication was then made, and con- tained a statement of facts and opinions in relation to the use of Gypsum. This pamphlet circulated widely, and pro- duced such a change in husbandry, by introducing the culture of clover, and other artificial grasses, as gave, we all know, a magical increase to the value offarms. Estates which until then were unable to maintain stock, for want of winter fodder, and summer pasture, were suddenly brought into culture, and made productive. Formerly, ona farm destitute of natural meadow, no stock could be supported; and even where natural meadow existed, the barn yard was exhausted to keep up sufficient fertility, (in the absence of irrigation,) to feed a very few horses and black cattle. 4 “¢ Such was the situation of our hus- bandry, for some years after the revolu- tion. Itis proper to advert to it, that we may understand the full extent of our obligation to the Judge. In the year 1770, he was shown the effects of gypsum on clover, in a city lot, occupied by Mr. Jacob Barge, on the commons of Philadelphia. ‘¢ The secret of its powerful agency came from Germany, where it was ac- cidentally discovered. Mr. Peters ob- tained a small quantity, which he used successfully, and gradually promoted its consumption, until, by his example, and his publications, the importation from Nova Scotia alone, into the single port of Philadelphia, increased to the enormous amount of fourteen thousand tons annually. This was before the discovery of that fossil in the United States. *¢ Inquire in the counties of Chester, Lancaster, and others around us, where clover is so beneficially cultivated, how much is due to that excellent man, for the great pains he took to extend the use of gypsum? On this subject, I very recently transmitted to the Judge, a testimonial of gratitude from one of the most intelligent persons of Lancaster; who unhesitatingly ascribes to Mr. Peters’ book on plaster, and his other agricultural essays, the merit of having produced a good part of the rich culti- vation, for which that country is so celebrated.” GYRENIA biflora. Half-hardy bulb- ous perennials. Division. Peat and loam. GYROCARPUS. Two species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam and peat. HABENARIA. Ten species. Stove orchids. Division. Leaf-mould and eat. HABRANTHUS. Fourteen species. Green-house and hardy bulbs. Offsets and seeds. Sandy loam and peat. HAMADICTYON venosum. Stove evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Loam and eat. HHMANTHUS. Twenty-one species. Green-house bulbs. Offsets. Sandy loam and peat. HASMILIS. See Tinea. HEMODORUM. Two species. Green-house herbaceous. Division. Loam and peat. HA-HA, is a sunk fence, being placed at the bottom of a deep and spreading ditch, either to avoid any interruption to an expanse of surface, or to let ina desired prospect. As all deceptions are unsatisfactory to good taste, and as when viewed lengthwise these fences are formal and displeasing, they ought never to be adopted except in extreme cases. ; HAIR. See Animal Matters. HAKEA. _ Forty-eight species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Loam, peat, and sand. HALESIA. Snowdrop Tree. Three species. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Cut- tings and Jayers. Common soil. HALF-HARDY PLANTS are those which require partial shelter, as in a cold pit or frame, during the winter. Here some attention is required to ex- clude from them dampness and frost, but especially the first. On these points HAL 280 HAWN = Mr. W. Wakefield gives these good directions :— ‘¢To prevent dampness there must be a free circulation of air; the plants must be placed on a dry bottom; and if they are in a situation which will admit of a fire occasionally, it will render the pits or house dry, but it should be used very sparingly, and only when abso- lutely necessary. But even with all care and attention, damp will attack some plants, and generally those that are most succulent in their nature, or the young and tender tops of others. We should therefore watch narrowly and remove every leaf or shoot affected, as damp not only destroys the indi- vidual immediately affected, but ex- tends its influence to those in the neigh- bourhood of the one so affected. It is contagious; it engenders mould, which being a species of fungus, is rapidly dis- seminated, attacking and destroying wherever the damp has prepared the leaves for its reception. Neither should plants be too much crowded, as that obstructs the free circulation of air. *¢ Watering should of course be done sparingly, but still it will be required occasionally. Care, however, should be taken to preserve the foliage as dry as possible, as, there being but little sun in winter, and that not of sufficient strength to evaporate the superabundant moisture rapidly, it quickly rots the leaves, especially of Pelargoniums, and similar plants having leaves which form a kind of dish in which the water ac- cumulates in considerable quantities. <¢ When fire is had recourse to for dry- ing the house or pits, choose a fine day, and give all the air possible, so that the moisture dislodged by the heat may be dispersed. ‘ ‘‘If the season is likely to be dry, first make a hole for the plant, and in the bottom of this put some rotten dung, or any sort of material that will retain water. Water this well, and then put in the plant, filling the hole to within two inches of the surface; again water well, and then fill up the hole. “<< If obliged to water the plants after- wards, cause the beds to be hoed over next day as soon as they are dry enough; plants do better under this treatment than by watering them so much as is usually done when there is no appear- ance of damp on the leaves over late in the evening.”»—Gard. Chron. HALIMODENDRON. Threespecies. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers and seeds, or grafts on Robinia. Sandy loam. - HALLERIA. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Rich sandy loam. HALTICA. See Black Fly. HAMAMELIS. Witch Hazel. Two species. Hardy deciduous trees. Lay- ers. Common soil. HAMBURGH PARSLEY. See Pars- ley (Hamburgh). HAMELIA. evergreen shrubs. loam. HAMILTONIA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and eat. p eHANBURY. See Ambury. HANDBARROW is best made of this form :— Five species. Stove Cuttings. Peat and BU Ly RN | tN ANNA The cage below is useful for carrying leaves and other litter; and when the close moveable cover is on, it serves as a conveyance for plants in large pots or tubs, which, when in flower or bearing fruit, might be too violently shaken in a wheelbarrow. HAND-GLASS is a portable glass- case used for sheltering cauliflowers and other plants in winter, and during ‘early spring, or to retain a regular supply of moisture to cuttings until they are rooted. The most durable and convenient are made with cast iron framing of this form:— They are sometimes made with mevea- ble tops as here represented, but the only advantage it affords is, that several of the lower portions may be placed HAN 281 HEA —_~—— upon each other to protect any tall growing shrub in severe weather, other- wise they are more troublesome to move, and more liable to breakage than if made entire. HAND-WEEDING: much of it might be banished from the garden, if in the kitchen department all crops were in- serted in drills.. This is most desirable; for the stirring of the surface conse- quent to hoeing, is much more beneficial to the crops, and cannot be repeated too frequently. HAPALOSTEPHIUM. Eightspecies. Hardy herbaceous. Division and seed. Sandy rich soil. : HARDENBERGIA monophylla is a green-house climber, the cultivation of which is thus narrated by Mr. G. Wat- son :— *¢ Train with five leading shoots, one from the centre of the pot, to which a long, smal], neat stick is placed; the other four being fastened to four similar sticks at regular distances round the edge of the pot. From each of these leading shoots proceed numerous side- branches which are densely covered with flowers. When the plant has done blooming, which is bythe end of May or beginning of June, still allow it to remain in the green-house until the shoots are well ripened. During this time the plant is watered sparingly ; for it is only by moderating the supply of water that we can imitate those pe- riodical seasons of rest to which this, as well as all other exotic plants, is ex- posed in its native climate. ‘¢ By the first week in August it is taken from the green-house and well soaked with water, then placed in the open air in a sheltered situation, but fully exposed to the sun, being double potted to prevent the sun’s rays from destroying the small fibres, which are the principal feeding organs. | «¢ The whole of the side shoots are pruned to one or not more than two eyes, and the leading shoots cut back according to their strength, so as to call into action the whole of the remaining buds. As soon as the new shoots are from one to two inches in length, the |’ plant is taken from the pot and nearly the whele of the soil is shaken from its roots; the stronger roots are at the same time cut back to smaller fibres. ‘It is then repotted in a new or clean washed pot, thoroughly drained. ‘¢ The soil in which it thrives well is chopped turfy heath-mould, mixed with alittle sand. After forcing it is placed in a shady place fora short time, and by degrees exposed fully to the sun, being taken into the green-house by the end of September.?’—Gard. Chron. HARDY PLANTS are those whieh endure uninjured our seasons without protection. Half-hardy Plants are those . which require a temporary protection during the colder portions of the year. HAREBELL. Campanula rotundi- fOr. : HARES and RABBITS are deterre from injuring trees and shrubs by mixing night-soil and clay in water, and daub- ing it over the stems with a brush, in November; and if the winter proves very wet, in February. The November dressing is, however, generally suffi- cient. This mixture has stopped their depredations entirely, even when they had commenced operations. — Gard. Chron. HARE’S-EAR. Bupleurum. HARE’S-FERN. JDavallia canari- ensis. HARE’S-FOOT. Ochromalagopus. HARONGA madagascariensis. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and eat. HARPALYCE. Four species. Hardy herbaceous. Seeds. Common soil. HARRISONIA loniceroides. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and eat. HARTOGIA capensis. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat. HAUTBOY. See SrRAWBERRY. HAWK FLY. See Scava. HAWKWEED. Hieracium. HAWORTHIA. Sixty-two species. Green-house succulents. Suckers or cuttings of leaves. Sandy loam and leaf-mould. _ HAWTHORN. Crategus. HAWTHORN BUTTERFLY. See PIERIS. HAYLOCKIA pussilia. Halfhardy bulb. Offsets. Sandy loam. HAZEL. Corylus avellana. HEADING, or as it is also termed Cabbaging or Loaving, is an inaptitude to unfold the central leaves, character- izing the various members of the Cab- bage tribe. They have their centre or bud composed of a Jarger number of leaves than usual, and these, in some HEA 282 HEA = instances, are so complexly combined that the plant has not sufficient power to force them open to permit the pro- trusion of the seed-stem. The close- ness of the heading is regulated by the exposure to the light. Ina shady situ- ation all the leaves are required to ela- borate the sap, on account of the defi- cient light rendering each less active; therefore they open as they are formed. In a free exposure a few leaves are able to effect the requisite decomposition ; and hence the reason why cabbages al- ways have ‘‘ harder hearts®? in summer than in spring or autumn, when the light is less intense. HEADING-DOWN is cutting off en- tirely or to a considerable extent, the branches of a tree or shrub—a process not rashly to be resorted to, and adapted only to reduce them when the plant seems declining in vigour, or has attain- ed an undesirable size. HEART?’S-EASE. See Pansy. HEAT is the prime agent employed by the Almighty Creator to call vege- table life into existence, to develop vegetable form, to effect all vegetable changes, and to ripen all vegetable produce. All these effects are per- formed most efficiently, in the case of every plant, at some different tempera- ture or degree of heat; and he who ascertains most correctly those heats, has taken a gigantic step towards ex- cellence asa gardener. An uncongenial heat is as pernicious to vegetables as to animals. Every plant has a particular temperature without which its functions cease ; but the majority of them luxuri- ate most in a climate of which the extreme temperature does not much exceed 32° and 90°. No seed will vegetate—no sap will circulate—at a temperature at or below the freezing point of water. No cultivation will render plants, natives of the torrid zone, capable of bearing the rigours of our winters, although their offspring, raised from seed, may be rendered much more hardy than their parents. Others are capable of resisting the greatest known cold to which they can be exposed; yet all have degrees of temperature most congenial to them, and if subjected to Jower temperatures, are less or more injured proportionately to the intensity of that reduction. If the reduction of temperature be only slightly below that which is congenial, it. only causes the growth of the plant to diminish and its colour to become more pale; this effect being now produced by the plant’s tor- pidity, or want of excitement to perform the requisite elaboration of the sap, as it is by over-excitement when made to vegetate in a temperature which is too elevated. If blossoms are produced at all, they are unfertile, and the entire aspect o the plant betrays that its secretions are not healthy and its functions are dead- ened. Mr. Knight says, ‘* that melon and cucumber plants, if grown in a temperature too low, produce an excess of female blossoms; but if the tempera- ture be too high, blossoms of the oppo- site sex are by far too profuse.” The drier the air the greater is the amount of moisture transpired; and this be- comes so excessive, if it be also pro- moted by a high temperature, that plants in hot-houses, where it has oc- curred often, dry up as if burned. The justly lamented Mr. Daniell has well illustrated this by showing, that if the temperature of a hot-house be raised only five degrees, viz. from 75° to 80°, whilst the air within it retains the same degree of moisture, a plant that in the lower temperature exhaled fifty-seven grains of moisture, would in the higher temperature, exhale one hundred and twenty grains in the same space of time. Plants, however, like animals, can bear a higher temperature in dry air than they can in air charged with va- pour. Animals are scalded in the lat- ter if the temperature is very elevated, and plants die, under similar circum- stances, as if boiled. MM. Edwards and Colin found kidney-beans sustained no injury, when the air was dry, at a temperature of 167°; but they died in a few minutes if the air was moist. Other plants under similar circum- stances, would perish probably at a much lower temperature ; and the fact affords a warning to the gardener to have the atmosphere in his stoves very dry whenever he wishes to elevate their temperature for the destruction of in- sects or other purposes. i Some plants, like some animals, are able to endure a very high degree of tem- perature. Sir Joseph Banks and others have breathed for many minutes in an at- mosphere hot enough to cook eggs; and I have myself travelled in Bengal breath- HEA 283 HEA —_e—- ing air, without inconvenience, which rendered the silver-mountings of my green spectacles too hot to be borne without their occasional removal. So do certain plants flourish in hot- ater springs of which the temperature varies between the scalding heats of from 150° to -180° of Fahrenheit’s ther- mométer; and others have been found growing freely on the edges of volca- noes, in an atmosphere heated above the boiling point of water. Indeed, it is quite certain that most plants will better bear, for a short time, an elevat- ed temperature which, if long continu- ed, would destroy them, than they can a lowtemperature. Thusa temperature much above the freezing point of wa- ter, to orchidaceous and other tropical plants, is generally fatal if endured by them for only a few minutes; whereas a considerable elevation above a salu- tary temperature is rarely injurious to plants. But this is not universally the case; for the elegant Primula marginata is so impatient of heat that, although just about to blcom, it never opens a bud, if brought into a room in which there is a fire. The temperature should always be regulated, in our hot-houses, with a due regard to the light. At night it _ should be so low as to put the circula- tion of the sap into a comparative state of rest; and in dull days the tempera- ture should be full 10° lower than in those of bright sunshine. . HEATHS (Erice). This truly beau- tiful tribe is in’ the climate of the United States of but little interest. half a dozen of the almost countless species and varieties of Erica have proved capable of resisting the effects of our restless climate. It is a curious fact, that, though this genus is diffused over Europe, Asia, and Africa, not a single species has been found in the Western hemisphere. Varieties.—Of these the following are good selections :— HARDY CAPE HEATHS, FOR FLOWERING DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS. Erica Bowieana, white. Grandiflora, yellow. Ventricosa, pink. - Echiflora, purple. Beaumontiana, blush. Mundula, pink. — Cerinthoides, scarlet. Scarcely | Erica Ampullacea. —— Aristata, dark crimson and pink. — Aggregata, purple. Vindiflora, green and pink. —— Phrysodes, white. USEFUL KINDS ARE :— Hartnelli, pink. Aristata Major, red. Acuminata longiflora, purple. —— Tenuiflora, white, with pink shade. Inflata, white. —— Archeriana, scarlet. Depressa, yellow. —— Elegans, light purple. Cavendishii, yellow. Mutabilis, light purple. Retorta Major, pink. fi Lamberti Rosea, flesh-coloured. —— Hyemalis, purple, tipped with white. Tricolor, red. — Lirinzoides Superba, purple, with white tip. Jasmini, flora alba, white, and all the varieties of Ventri- cosa. VARIETIES BLOOMING BETWEEN NOVEM- BER AND MAY. Erica Verticillata. Mammosa, M. pallida. — Hyemalis. — Willmoreana. — Westcottii. Grandinosa. — Arbuscula. — Umbellata. Rubra P., alba. —— Pyramidalis. —— Transparens. Regermirans. Mr. Reid very justly remarks, “¢ that, in small establishments, the green-house being generally furnished with vines, to keep plants in them in summer is out of the question ; he therefore selects three or four plants of only the winter flower- ing sorts, such as would keep up a show of bloom from November till April. Early in May the plants might be all taken out, and the house should be shut up for the purpose of forwarding the vines.”? t With something like the following selection, a very nice show of bloom might be kept up during all the time that it is necessary to have the plants in the house; and they are, with very HEA 284 HEA ————— few exceptions, strong growers and free bloomers, and all can be — at a jow rate:— Erica Westcottii. Colorans. —— Arbuscula. —— Hyemalis. Picta. Transparens. \ — Nova. Vernix. Vernix Coccinea. Cerinthoides. Superba. Mutabilis. — Bicolor. — Willmoreana. Rubra Calyx. Lambertiana. Lambertiana Rosea. Exsurgens. ——— Coccinea. —— Archeriana. —— Prestans. — Pyramidalis Verna. Autumnalis, Tenella. — Gracilis Autumnalis. Verna. Pellucida. Mammosa. Pallida. Curviflora. Scabriuscula. Propagation.—Mr. Fleming gives the . following very full and excellent direc- tions :— ‘¢ Heaths are propagated in two ways —by seeds and by cuttings. Seeds are either obtained from the Cape of Good Hope, or are gathered from plants which have flowered in this country. When they are received from the Cape they should be sown immediately, un- less this should happen late in the au- tumn, or in winter; and in that case the sowing- should be deferred until spring. When seeds of this kind are sown late in the year, they either do not vegetate at all, or, if they are ex- cited into growth, the stimulus is so weak, and the days are so short and dull, that they get sickly, and frequent- ly damp off. For the same. reason, seeds which are saved in this country should either be sown in spring, or very early in summer. ‘¢ Some flat pots, or seed-pans, should be half filled with potsherds; and over these a layer of turfy peat should be placed to prevent the soil from being washed down and destroying the drain- age. The pots should then be filled to within half an inch of the top with fine peat, and this should be slightly pressed down with the back of the hand, or with the bottom of a small floweg-pot, to make it level and more solid. If this is not attended to, the seeds are liable to sink too deep in the soil, and are prevented from germinating. They should then be sown, and slightly co- vered with fine peat soil, after which they should be watered and removed to the seed-house. In all large nurseries or gardens, a house, pit, or frame, is set apart for raising seeds. It is to a place of this kind that the pots contain- ing the heath-seed should be removed, and as we suppose this to be done in spring, no artificial heat will be requir- ed, that received from the sun being quite sufficient. If the seed has been good, the young plants will soon make their appearance above ground. As they get strong, the shading should be gradually discontinued, and more air admitted, until they are a little harden- ed and ready to pot off. They should then be put singly into thumb-pots in sandy peat soil well watered, and after- wards removed to a close-shaded frame. Here they will remain for ten days or a fortnight, ‘until their roots establish themselves in their new quarters, when more air may gradually be admitted, and the plants subjected to the same treatment as those in the green-house or heathery.”*—Gard. Chron. Cuttings.—The same good authority says that, ‘‘ No particular time can be specified ‘for striking cuttings of heaths, because the plants are in a fit state for taking off the cuttings at different times; but the earlier in the season the better, although many cultivators succeed per- fectly so late as the months of August and September. The plants from which the cuttings are taken must be perfectly healthy. The wood should be firm and nearly ripe, because if taken when very young it is almost certain to damp off. The short lateral shoots, about an inch or an inch and a half long, should al- ways be chosen, and the leaves stripped off them to about half their length, and the ends cut across with a sharp knife ; in this state they are ready for the cut- ting-pot. The cutting-pots should be HEA 285 HEA ———aos prepared in the following manner. Fill them about two-thirds with broken pots, and cover these with a thin stratum of turfy peat, or some other substance to prevent the sand with which the pots are filled up from choking the drain- age. The silver sand, common about London, is very well adapted for strik- ing heaths; but almost any sand will answer the purpose; it is generally pre- ferred as free from the rusty colour of iron as possible. The cuttings may. then be inserted in the sand, not deep- ly, but merely deep enough to support themselves; from a quarter to half an inch is quite sufficient. They must then be well watered; bell glasses are of great service in striking them, but certainly not indispensable to success. When they are used, they must be fre- quently taken off and wiped dry, other- wise the moisture will probably rot the cuttings. with the cuttings should be placed in a situation which is moist and shaded, and then they will be surrounded ina great measure with the same circum- stances as under a bell glass. ‘¢ Very little artificial heat is neces- sary in striking heaths, much is certain- ly injerious. A cucumber or melon ‘frame nearly exhausted, or the shaded part of a cool. stove, will answer the purpose early in spring, and later in the season, when the sun-heat is greater, a close fence slightly shaded is all that is required. The care required after- wards is to shade during bright sun- shine, to remove into the shade early in the afternoon, and also to see that the watering is not neglected. *¢ More, perhaps, depends upon the kind of water which is used, and the regularity with which it is given, than upon anything else in operation; if we except the selection of proper cuttings. Rain or river water is by far the ‘best kind to use. After the cuttings have struck root they should be gradually . hardened by exposure to the air before they are potted off. Small thumb-pots are the best for the first potting, and the soil used, should be very sandy peat. The greatest care should be taken to preserve the young rootless from injury, because if this is not attended to, the plants will receive a sudden check at first, which is very prejudicial. After potting, they should be removed to a close-shaded frame,.and treated in the When they are dispensed. same manner as the young seedlings above described.??—Gard. Chron. Soil.—* The best for the growth of heaths is that rich brown turfy peat, commonly found on the surface of land where the native heath grows. Some- times grass will be found growing very strong on this soil, as at Shirley Com- mon; but wherever the land is barren, it is an indication of poor soil, and should not be selected. It is always best to have it dug and brought home to the compost yard at least a year be- fore itis to be used. The fibrous mat- ter will then have time to decay, and will make excellent manure for the roots of the plants. During the winter and spring it should be several times turned over, and by this means the whole will get well mixed and exposed to the influence of the frost. Peat soil is generally found naturally well mixed with fine white sand; but where this is not the case, a small quantity should be added to the soil before it is used.??— Gard. Chron. After-Culture, Potting, §&c.—<‘ As the young plants grow and fill the pots of a larger size, follow the different sizes of the pots commonly made in the potteries from ‘ thumbs’ downwards to those of a larger size. Thus the young cuttings or seedlings are first potted in ‘thumbs,’ then in sixties, then forty- eights, and so on. At every shifting the neck of the plant ought to be kept a little higher than the soil, and when large pots or tubs are used, Mr. M’?Nab’s plan of mixing small pieces of freestone with the soil is a most excellent one ; of course it is necessary for the health of the plants to have the pots properly drained and the worms kept out of them. ‘* Heaths will not bear their roots being cut-or destroyed, particularly after the plants attain a certain age. The shifting may be done at any season except winter; but this must be regu-. lated in a great degree by the state of the plants, as they flower and grow at so many different times. Spring, how- ever, is the time when the most-of them ought to be shifted, and if they are placed out of doors during summer, they will all require to be looked over again before they are brought into the house in autumn. The kind of water which is used for these plants is of the greatest consequence in keeping them in a high state of health. When the HEB 286 HED et pots are properly drained, there is not much danger to be apprehended from over watering; but the plants are sure to suffer if the ball is allowed to get too dry, and hence the great use of} small pieces of freestone, recommended by Mr. M’Nab. In the winter season, when there is any danger from frost, heaths and all other hardy green-house plants should always be watered in the early part of the day, as they are much more likely to be injured if watered in the afternoon. It is the best plan under these circumstances to keep them as dry as they will bear without injury, for wet soil freezes much sooner than dry. Frequent syringing is also of great use in fine weather; but this must never be done when the plants are likely to suf- fer from damp, or when the weather is cold and frosty. The principal art of making fine specimens of heaths, con- sists in dwarfing them, and forming them into round green bushes. This is done by pinching out the points of the shoots when the plants are young, and continuing the practice whenever the stems are inclined to grow long-jointed. It must, however, be done in a judi- cious manner, otherwise if done at the wrong season the flowering will be spoiled. The proper time is after the flowering season is past, or when the plant is growing freely, and before it has begun to form its flower buds.??— Gard. Chron. HEBENSTREITIA. Ten species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. HEDEOMA. Two species. annuals. Seeds. Common soil. HEDERA. Ivy. Two species and several varieties. Hardy evergreen climbers. Slips. Common soil. HEDGE, properly includes every kind of fence, but the present details apply for the most part to growing fences. Abercrombie says, that “all outward hedges designed as fences should have a ditch on the outside, three or four feet wide at the top, three deep, sloping to one wide at bottom, raising a low bank on the inside on which to plant the hedge, which may be planted either on the side of the said inner bank in two rows, one above the other a foot asunder, planting them as you advance in forming the ditch and Hardy bank, or may be planted entirely on the top of the bank, first forming the ditch and bank, and leveling the top of the bank so as to form a sort of border, then plant the sets in one or two rows the whole length; but two rows a foot asunder is the most eligible for all out- ward fences, as it always forms the thickest, strongest, and most effectual hedge-fence. Mark out a space for a ditch three or four feet wide at top, which is to be digged three feet deep each side, sloping gradually to a foot wide at bottom, forming a bank along upon the inner edge on which to bed or plant, which should be planted as you advance in forming the ditch and bank. Having lined out the width of the ditch, then along the inner edge lay a row of square spit turfs, grass side downwards, to form the beginning of the bank, back- ing it up with spits of earth from the formation of the ditch, and top it with a little of the fine mould or crumbs; and then upon this proceed to lay the first row ,of plants: first let the sets be headed to about five or six inches, and the roots trimmed, then lay them upon the bed of turf with their tops out- ward, in an upward direction, about ten or twelve inches asunder, covering their roots with mould also out of the ditch; and-then lay another row of turf along upon the necks of the plants, and more mould from the ditch upon, and behind, the turf; and when the bank is thus raised a foot above the row of sets, plant another row in the same manner, placing each set against the spaces of those of the first row, so covering them . with more earth from the ditch to the depth of three feet, sloping each side to one foot width at bottom, and trim up all remaining earth, throwing a suf- ficiency behind the top of the banking to bank up the whole even, in a sort of broad border, all the way along the top, sloping a little back, so as to correspond nearly with the adjoining ground. But in planting for an outward fence, some form the ditch and bank first as above, and plant the sets in two rows along the top; that is, after having formed the ditch and bank, then leveling the top forming a foot of border all along a yard wide; plant the sets along the middle thereof upright, in two rows a foot asunder, and six inches distant in each row, observing the same when in- tended to raise a hedge at once from seed sowed where you design the hedge to be, sowing them along the top in HED 287 HED ———_4+-—— drills a foot asunder. Sometimes when hedges are designed for middle fences to divide’ fields, a two-sided bank is raised a yard high, and as broad at top, having a slight ditch on each side; and each side of the bank is formed with square spit turfs from the adjoining ground, and the middle filled up with mould from the ditches on each side; so that when finished, it forms a yard- wide border all the way along the top, and along the middle of which plant two rows of hedge-sets or seed, in drills, as before observed. But in places where no ditch nor raised bank is required, as may be the case for middle hedges in | the interior parts of grounds, especially in gardens; then the place for the hedge being marked out on the level ground two or three feet broad, dig it along one good spade deep at lesst, and then plant your sets of any sort in two rows, rang- ing along the middle; or if you design to sow seeds, &c., of any sort at once, where you intend to have the hedge, sow them in two drills a foot asunder the whole length. “In respect to the training and general culture of these sorts of hedges it must be remarked, that all such as are exposed to cattle, must as soon as lanted be fenced, either with a stake and bush hedge, with hurdles, or with rails and open paling, for four or five years, till the hedge grows up, observing not to place the fence too close to the hedge to interrupt its growth. The hedge must also be duly weeded while young, and this should be particularly attended to the first two years. And if designed to train the hedge regularly by clipping it with garden shears, it should be annually performed in summer; ob- serving, however, to top it but sparingly while it is young, until arrived at its in- tended height: only just trim off th tops of the straggling shoots to preserve a little regularity, and promote lateral wood to thicken it as it advances, and cut it in also moderately on the sides; but when arrived at nearly its proper height of four, five or six feet, or more, then trim it close on the sides and top, annually, to preserve it thick, and within its proper bounds; in cutting the sides always cutting in nearly to the old wood of the former year’s cut, other- wise your hedge will get too broad ; and keep always the top narrower than the bottom.” Hedge-shrubs are Evergreen Holly; Yew; Laurel; Laurustinus; Phillyrea; Alaternus; Bay; and Evergreen Oak: but the holly and yew form the best hedges for general use. Deciduous kinds.—Hawthorn ; Black- thorn; Crab; Elder; Hornbeam; Beech; Elm; Lime-tree, and Alder are all proper, either for middling or tall hedges, as they may be trained up from about six or eight to fifteen or twenty feet high, and the elm to double that height if required. Privet is also some- times used for moderately high hedges 5 and for low hedges, the Rose; Sweet- briar; Syringa; and Berberry. All full trained hedges, in order to preserve them in proper form, close and neat, must be clipped, both on the sides and top, once or twice a year, but never less than once ; and the best time of the year for this work is summer, from about the middle or latter end of June to the end of August, for then the hedges will have made their summer shoots, which should always, ifpossible, be clipped the same season while in leaf, and before the shoots become hard, whereby you will be able to per- form the work more expeditiously and with greater exactness, for regular hedges should be cut as even as a wall on the sides, and the top as straight as a line; observing, after the hedge is formed to its proper height and width, always to cut each year’s clipping nearly to the old of the former year. particularly on the side; for by no means suffer them to grow above a foot or two wide, nor suffer them to advance upon you too much at top, where it is designed or necessary to keep them to a moderate height. But to keep hedges in perfectly good order, they should be clipped twice every sum- mer ; the first clipping to be about mid- summer, or soon after, when they will have made their summer shoots; and as they will shoot again, what may be called the autumn shoot, the second clipping is necessary towards the mid- dle or latter end of August, and they wil! not shoot again that year. How- ever, when it does not suit to clip them but once in the summer, the clipping should not be performed until the be- ginning of August, for if cut sooner they will shoot again, and appear al- most as rough the remainder of the summer and all winter as if they had HED 288 HED Se not been clipped. Very high hedges are both troublesome and expensive to cut. The clipping is sometimes performed by the assistance of a high machine, scaffolding or stage, twenty or thirty feet high or more, having platforms at different heights for the men to stand upon, the whole made to move along upon wheels; it is composed of four long poles for uprights, well framed together; eight or ten feet wide at bot- tom, narrowing gradually to four or five at top, having a platform or stage at every seven or eight feet high, and one at the top of all; and upon these the man stands to work, each platform having a rail waist high to keep the man from falling; anda sort of a ladder formed on one side for the man to ascend, and at bottom four low wheels to move it along; upon this machine a man may be employed on each stage or platform, trimming the hedge with shears, and sometimes with a garden hedge bill fixed on a handle five or six feet long, which is more expeditious, though it will not make so neat work as cutting with shears. A hedge is not only an imperfect ‘screen, but in other respects is worse than useless, since nothing can be trained to it, and its roots exhaust the soil in their neighborhood very. con- siderably; as the south fence of a gar- den it may be employed, and hawthorn is perhaps the worst shrub that could be made use of. It is the nursery of the same aphides, beetles, and cater- pillars, that feed upon the foliage of the apple and pear, from whence they spread to the trees nearest the hedge, and ‘finally overrun the whole garden; evergreen are better than deciduous hedges, and more especially the holly, which is not so slow a grower as is generally imagined. In a cloudy day in April or May, the wind seems to be actually refrigerated in passing through a thick hawthorn hedge, and this may be accounted for on the same principle that cool air is obtained in the houses of India, by sprinkling branches of trees with water in their verandas. Holly, laurel, and most evergreens, exhale but little mois- ture from their leaves, except for about a month in June, consequently in April and May, when we most require warmth, and in September and October, the leaves of these, when fully exposed to the sun become heated to the touch to 85° or 90°. Added to this, hoar frost or a deposition of moisture of any kind never attaches so readily or remains for so long a time upon the foliage of evergreens as upon the sprays of decid- uous shrubs, consequently the refrige- ratory power is greatly diminished. When the garden is of considerable extent, three or four acres and up- wards, it admits of cross-walls or fences for an increase of training sur- face and additional shelter. - Hedges should always be clipped into a conical form, as the diminution of the branches towards the top increases their developement at the bottom. Furze makes one of the best and handsomest of hedges, if kept regularly clipped. Upon the formation of such a hedge, we have the following remarks by Mr. Mcl. of Hillsborough :-— ‘* The most ancient and perhaps the most simple of all fences are walls made of turf. These walls, however, are much injured by the atmosphere, and the rubbing and butting of the cat- tle. To guard against this they should be planted or sown with the Ulex Euro- peus or Furze. The roots of this plant will soon penetrate the turf, and tend to bind the wall. The plants not only afford shelter as well as food for the cattle, but add to the height of the wall and give it a formidable appearance. When walls are made for this, the foundation should be three feet wide, and tapering to fifteen inches at top. As the plants advance in growth, they should be regularly trimmed with the shears; by proper attention to this they will be prevented from growing too tall and thin at the bottom. If this is an- nually repeated; the plants will be longer preserved in a healthy and vig- qo" state; clipping has also a good ffect in checking the furze from spread- ing over the field. A good and substan- tial fence may thus be quickly formed over on a soil that will not produce a biding fence of any other kind. ‘¢ Sweet Briar (Rosa Rubiginosa) makes a good hedge. Its heps may be sown in the autumn, as soon as ripe, or, which is better, in the month of March, having kept them in the mean time mixed with sand. But it is far more convenient to buy for sweet briar layer young plants from the nurserymen, and to plant them a foot apart early in HED 289 HEL . See the month of November. Let them| HELIOCARPUS americanus. Stove grow as they like the first year,and cut| evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy them down to the ground the second, they will then spring up and require no more future care, than occasional trimming with the pruning knife or shears so as to keep the hedge in shape. When it gets naked at the bottom, it must be again cut down.”— Gard. Chron. The Laurustinus, Phillyrea, Laurel, Furze, &c., referred to in the foregoing -article, are not sufficiently hardy to re- sist the winter of the middle states, and some of them would, it.is presumed, scarcely withstand the sun of the South- ern. For ornamental hedges it is safer to rely on the red and white Cedar, Chinese and American Arborvite, Juniper, Ame- rican. Holly, Variegated Euonymus, Hemlock Spruce, &c. For purposes of protection the Maclura or Osage Orange is unquestionably the best, wherever it can sustain the winter— which it is able to do so far North as New York. The Buck Thorn (Rham- nus catharticus) has been highly recom- mended, more especially for colder climates. The English method of plant- ing on an elevated bank with ditch on one or both sides, is inapplicable to this country, where excess of moisture is seldom felt: in other respects the mode of treatment detailed in the preceding article may be pursued in this climate. For an interesting paper on this sub- ject see Downing’s “ Horticulturist.” HEDWIGIA balsamifera. Stove ever- green tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam and eat. HEDYCHIUM. Twenty-two species. tracy herbaceous. Division. Light rich soil. HEDYSARUM. Hardy herbaceous. Sandy loam and peat. HEIMIA. Three species. Half- hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. San- dy loam and peat. in HELENIUM. Eight species. Hardy herbaceous. Division or seed. Com- mon soil. HELIANTHEMUM. One hundred and twenty-one species. Chiefly hardy and half-hardy shrubs or trailers. Cut- tings and seed. Sandy loam and peat. HELIANTHUS. Thirty-four species. Hardy herbaceous and annual. Seed. Common soil. See Sunflower and Je- rusalem Artichoke. 19 Twenty species. Division or seed. loam and peat. HELIOPHILA. ‘Twenty-three spe- cies. Hardy annuals and green-house evergreen shrubs. Seeds or cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. HELIOPSIS. Three species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Common soil. HELIOTROPIUM. Seventeen spe- cies. Hardy annuals, and green-house evergreen shrubs. Seed or cuttings. Common soil. The following are good directions for the culture of the Heliotrope :— ‘¢ Prepare in August as many shallow thirty-two sized pots as will be required, by filling them to the depth of an inch and a half with broken crocks, upon which a layer of the rough siftings of leaf mould should be laid; the remain- ing space should be filled with a mixz- ture of finely sifted leaf mould and silver sand, previously well incorporat- ed, which when pressed down firmly, should be exactly level with the border of the pots. ‘‘ For cuttings, the tips of the young shoots about three inches in length, should be chosen, and these should be taken off immediately below a joint or the base of a leaf bud. <¢ After removing two or three of the lower leaves, plant the cuttings in the pots prepared, about an inch and a half deep, and two inches apart; water them well with a fine rose two or three times, so that every part of the soil may be thoroughly moistened, which may easi- ly be known by the water percolating through the bottom of the pots. If this is not attended to, and the surface soil alone is penetrated by the water, cer- tain failure will be the result. «¢ The cuttings, when planted, should be removed to a cucumber or other frame, where a tolerably damp heat can be supplied; they should be kept shaded from the sun, and air admitted in small quantities, only during the hot- test part of the day. In about a fort- night, the plants will begin to form roots, and the shading may be gradually diminished during the morning and af- ternoon; the quantity of air given them may be increased by degrees, and at the end of a month from the time ot planting, the cuttings will be ready for potting off singly. _ ‘For this purpose large sized sixties HEL 290 HER ee ey are best adapted, and the soil should| White. 5. Great White. 6. Ash-co- be composed of equal parts of loam |loured, or Argentria]l. 7. White with and sandy peat, with small quantities|red stamens. 8. Red. 9. Double of leaf mould and well decayed ma-|Purple. 10. Double Blue. 11. Double nure. The two latter only should be} White. 12. Single Yellow. 13. Peach- sifted, the loam and peat. being left rather rough, and a fair portion of drainage being used, will allow the water to pass off more freely, which is of the greatest consequence during the winter months; the tips of the shoots should also be pinched off to render the plants bushy. ‘¢ When potted, they may be taken back to the frame and kept rather close for a few days, until they begin to root into the fresh soil, after which air may be freely admitted to them. About the beginning of October they may be re- moved to an airy part of the green- house, where, if protected from frost, and due attention will be paid to wa- tering, they will survive the winter un- injured.??—Gard. Chron. The Heliotrope forms an admirable border plant; when plunged or planted out entire, the bloom is produced in inexhaustible profusion throughout the summer, even till the approach of frost; when it may be repotted, and removed to a place of shelter, again to occupy its out door post, on the return of sum- miner weather. HELLEBORUS. Hardy herbaceous. Common soil. HELLENIA. Three species. herbaceous. Division. HELONIAS. Three species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Moist peat. HEMEROCALLIS. Five species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Light loam. HEMICLIDIA Bazteri. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Turfy loam, peat, and sand. HEMIDESMUS indicus. Stove ever- reen twiner. Cuttings. Loam and peat. HEMIMERIS montana. Stove herb- aceous. Cuttings. Loam and peat. HEMIONITIS palmata.. Stove fern. Division. Loam and peat. HEMLOCK. Conium. HEMLOCK SPRUCE. Pinus cana- densis. HEN-AND-CHICKENS. See Daisy. HENNA TREE. Lawsonia inermis. HEPATICA. Four species. Varieties.—1. Great single Blue. 2. Small Blue. 3. Purple. 4. Lesser Nine species. Seed and division. Stove Light rich soil. coloured. 14. Single Pink.—Floricul- tural Cabinet. They are propagated by division of the roots ; and grow best in sandy loam, on a well-drained or open subsoil. ‘HEPIALUS lupulinus. Garden Swift. A moth, of which the caterpillar is more indiscriminate in its attacks upon our plants than is any other ravager of the garden. The roots of auriculas, snowdrops, bear’s-ear, parsnips, let- tuces, celery, potatoes, and strawber- ries, have all been observed destroyed by this larva. The moth, usually, is chalky brown, head and thorax woolly, and its upper wings dark bright brown, with a broad line of white; but some- times this is absent, and at other times the upper wings are chalky white. These moths appear about the end of May, and are very abundant in the evening in meadows and other grassy places. They deposit their eggs appa- rently without discrimination, which soon hatch, and the caterpillars pro- duced are cylindrical, and yellowish- white, with black dots and hairs on the upper part and sides of their segments. The caterpillar changes to an ochreous, shining cylindrical pupa.—Gard. Chron. HERACANTHA. Four species. Hardy annuals. Seed. Common soil. HERBACEOUS PLANTS are those perennials which lose their stems an- nually, whilst the roots continue alive in the earth. HERBARIUM, or Hibkorts SICccus ; a dry garden; ‘‘an appellation given to a collection of specimens of plants, care- fully dried and preserved. The value of such a collection is very evident, since a thousand minutia may be pre- served in the well-dried specimens of plants, which the most accurate en- graver would have omitted. Specimens ought to be collected when dry, and carried home in a tin box. Plants may be dried by pressing in a box of sand, or with a hot smoothing iron. Each of these has its advantages. If pressure be employed, a botanical press may be procured. The press is made of two smooth boards of hard wood, 18 inches long, 12 broad, and 2 thick. Screws must be fixed in each corner with nuts. HER If a press cannot easily be had, books -may be employed. Next, some quires of unsized blotting paper must be pro- vided. The specimens, when taken out of the tin box, must be carefully spread on a piece of pasteboard, co- vered with a single sheet of the paper, quite dry; then three or four sheets of the same paper must be placed above the plant, to imbibe the moisture as it is pressed out. It is then to be put into the press. As many plants as the press will hold may be piled up in this man- ner. At first, they ought to be pressed gently. After being pressed for about twenty-four hours, the plants ought to be examined, that any leaves or petals which have been folded may be spread out, and dry sheets of paper laid over them. They may now be replaced in the press, and a greater degree of pres- sure applied. The press ought to stand near a fire, or in the sunshine. After remaining two days in this situation, they should be again examined, and dry sheets of paper be laid over them. The pressure ought then to be con- siderably increased. After remaining three days longer in the press, the plants may be taken out, and such as are sufficiently dry may be put in a dry sheet of writing paper. Those plants which are succulent may require more pressure, and the blotting paper to be again renewed. Plants which dry very quickly ought to be pressed with con- siderable force when first put into the -press; and,-if delicate, the blotting paper should be changed every day. ‘When the stem is woody, it may be thinned with a knife, and, if the flower be thick or globular, as the thistle, one side of it may be cut away, as all that is necessary, in a specimen, is to pre- serve the character of the class, order, genus, and species. Plants may be dried in a box of sand in a more expe- ditious manner; and this method pre- .serves the colour of some plants better: The specimens, after being pressed for | ten or twelve hours, must be laid with- in a sheet of blotting paper. The box must contain an inch deep of fine dry | sand on which the sheet is to be placed, and then covered with sand an inch thick ; another sheet may then be de- posited it the same manner, and so on, till the box be full. The box must be placed near a fire for two or three days. Then the sand must be carefully re- 291 HER moved, and the plants examined. I not sufficiently dried, they may again be replaced,in the same manner for a day or two. In drying plants witha hot smoothing iron, they must be placed within several sheets of blotting paper, and ironed till they become sufficiently dry. This method answers best for dry- ing succulent and mucilaginous plants. When properly dried, the specimens should be placed in sheets of writing paper, and may be slightly fastened by making the top and bottom of the stalk pass through a slip of the paper, cut for the purpose. The name of the genus and species should be written down, the place where it was found, nature of the soil, and the season of the year. These specimens may be collected into genera, orders, and classes, and titled and preserved ina portfolio or cabinet. The method of preserving many of the cryptogamous plants is more difficult, on account of the greater quantity of moisture which they contain, and the greater delicacy of their texture.??—En- cyc. Am. HERBARY was a department of the garden formerly much more cultivated than at present, when the more potent medicinal plants of hotter climates are so easily procurable. The following is a list of the tenants of the herbary, the appropriate cultivation of which will be found under their particular titles :— Angelica. Marigold. Balm. Marjoram. Basil. Mint. Blessed Thistle. Pennyroyal. Borage. Peppermint. Burnet. Purslane. Caraway. Rue. Chamomile. Sage. Chervil. Savory. Coriander. Scurvy Grass. Dill. Tansy. Hyssop. Tarragon. Lavender. Thyme. Liquorice. Wormwood. -HERBERTIA pulchella. Half-hardy bulb. Seed. Sandy loam and peat. HERB-GRACE. See Rue. HERCULES-CLUB. clava Herculis. HERMANNIA. Forty species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Light rich soil. HERMINIUM. Three species. Hardy and half-hardy orchids. Divi- sion. Chalk and peat. : t Xanthoxylum HER 292 HOE ee HERON’S-BILL. Erodium. HERPESTIS. Three species. Aqua- tic perennials, stove or hardy. Seed or division. Rich light soil. HERRERIA. Two species. Stove evergreen twiners. Division. Loam and peat. HESPERANTHA. Six species. Green-house bulbs. Loam, and peat. HESPERIS. Rocket. Fifteen spe- cies, besides varieties. Hardy herba- ceous and annual. Division or seed. Rich light soil. HESPEROSCORDUM. Twospecies. Hardy bulbs. Offsets. Sandy soil. HETERANTHERA. Three species. Aquatics, stove, green-house, and har- dy. Division. Sandy soil, in water. HETEROPTERIS. LEight species. Chiefly stove evergreen climbers. Cut- tings. Sand, peat, and loam. HEUCHERA. Nine species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Light soil. HIBBERTIA. Ten species. Green- house evergreen shrubs and twiners. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. HIBISCUS. Sixty-nine species, be- sides varieties. Some annual and bien- nial, but chiefly perennials, both hardy and tender. Mr. Paxton says, ‘ the shrubby stove and green-house kinds all grow from cuttings, and thrive in loam and peat. H. syriacus, from lay- ers or seed, in common soil. The hardy herbaceous kinds require a moist soil.?°—Bot. Dict. HIDE-BOUND. See Bark-bound. HIERACIUM. One hundred and nineteen species. Chiefly hardy herba- ceous. H. glutinosum is an annual. Seed in the open soil. The others by division in light soil. HILLIA. Two species. Offsets. Sand, Stove ever- green shrubs. Cuttings. Turfy loam and sand. HIPPEASTRUM. Two species. Stove bulbs. Offsets. Turfy loam and eat. HIPPION. Three species. Green- house biennials. Seed. Light rich soil. HIPPOCREPIS. Nine species. Har- dy perennial trailers and annuals. Cut- tings or seed. Sandy loam and peat. HIPPOPHAE. Four species. Har- dy trees. Layers or cuttings. Common soil. HIRAA. Four species. Stove ever- green climbers. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. HOE. This is the implement which should be most frequently in the gar- dener’s hand, fer the surface of the soil can never be too frequently stirred. I entirely agree with Mr. Barnes in think- ing the hoe one of the gardener’s best friends ; and, as it always must be a more frequently used implement than any other, what is the best form of its construction deserves some considera- tion. The handles should never be made of heavy wood, for this wearies the hand, and is altogether a uselessly heavy weight thrown upon the work- man. It is merely the fe ver, and every ounce needlessly given to this, dimin- ishes, without any necessity, the availa- ble moving power. The best woods for handles are birch or deal. For earthing up plants, broad blades to hoes are very admissible, and they may, without objection, have a breadth of nine inches; but this permission of breadth does not extend to hoes re- quired for loosening the soil and de- stroying weeds. These should never extend to beyond a breadth of six inch- es, and the work will be done best’ by one two inches narrower. The iron plate of which they are formed should be well steeled, and not more than one- sixteenth of an inch thick. The weight necessary should be thrown by the workman’s arm and body upon the handle, and the thicker the blade, the greater is the pressure required to make it penetrate the soil. It should be set on the handle at an angle of 689°, as this brings its edge when used at a good cutting angle with the surface of the soil, and the workman soon learns at what point most effectively to throw his weight, and holds the handle fur- ther from, or nearer to the blade, ac- cordingly as he is a tall or short man. Mr. Barnes, of Bicton Gardens, whose opinions relative to hoeing I have al- ready quoted, has paid considerable attention to the formation of this im- plement, and has favoured me with a letter upon the subject, from which I will now give some extracts. He employs nine sized hoes, the smallest having a blade not more than one-fourth of an inch broad, and the largest ten inches. The smallest are used for potted plants and Seed-beds, and those from two inches and a half to four inches wide are used for thin- ning and hoeing among crops generally. HOE 293 HOE —+—__y—_—— These have all handles varying in length from eight inches and a half to eighteen inches, all the neck or upper part form- ed of iron, for the smaller sizes not thicker than a large pencil, and that part which has to be grasped by the workman is only six inches long, and «¢ formed either of willow or some other soft light wood, which is best to the feel ' of the hand; for hard heavy wood is cumbersome, harsh, and tiring.? Each labourer works “ with one in each hand, to cut right and left.» ‘‘ The blade is made thin, and with a little foresight and activity it is astonishing how much ground can be got over in a short time.” Mr. Barnes has all his hoes made with a crane neck. The blades broader than four inches Mr. Barnes has made like a Dutch hoe. ‘¢ The crane neck allows the blade to pass freely and kindly under the fo- liage of any crop where the earth re- quires loosening ; and the blade works itself clean, allowing the earth to pass through, as there is no place for it to lodge. and clog up as in the old-fash- ioned hoe, to clean which, when used of a dewy morning, causes the loss of much time in scraping.?? ‘The draw-hoe’’? is correctly de- scribed by Mr. Loudon as a “plate of iron attached to a handle about four feet long, at an angle less than a right angle. The blade is either broad for cutting weeds, deep and strong for drawing earth to the stems of plants, curved, so as to act like a double mould-boarded plough in drawing drills, formed into two strong broad prongs for stirring hard adhesive soils,—or it is formed to accomplish the first and last purposes, as in the double hoe or Dutch hoe. * “* The thrust-hoe consists of a plate of iron attached somewhat obliquly to the end of a handle by a bow, used only for killing weeds or loosening ground which is to be afterwards raked. As a man can draw more than he can push, most heavy work will be easiest done by the draw-hoe.”»—Enc. Gard. In the island of Guernsey a very ef- fective weeding-prong is used, and is thus described in the Gardener’s Chron- icle :— ‘¢ It is something in the shape of a hammer, the head flattened into a chisel an inch wide, and the fork the same. The whole length of this prong is nine inches, and it is attached to a staff five feet long. Such an implement is light and easy to use; it requires no stoop- ing, and will tear up the deepest-rooted weeds.”? Hoes are made in a great variety of forms; the following, figured in The Rural Register, are those most gene- rally used, and perhaps are all which are truly desirable; they are, when well made, of cast steel. Square garden Hoe. Fig. 79. Forked-back Hoe. Fig. 82. Pronged-back | Hoe. Fig.81. iil in xy Dutch or Scuffle Hoe. Fig. 85. Triangle Hoe. Fig. 84. | HOI 294 HON : see HOITZIA. Three species. Green-|in any poor light sandy soil, or in a’ house evergreen shrubs. Sandy loam and peat. — HOLLY (lex aquifolium.) Of this hardy evergreen shrub there are eight varieties :—1, silver-edged; 2, golden- edged; 3, thick-leaved; 4, prickly; 5,.yellow-leaved; 6, variegated; 7, spotted; 8, recurvum. It is so desira- ble, as an ornamental and as a hedge- shrub, that it deserves some more par- ticular notice. If grown as single ornamental shrubs, they ‘* should not be overshadowed by other trees; and if the Jand is manured for it so much the better. As to prun- ing it, with a view to make it grow fast, the less you do of that the better. All that is necessary is to encourage the leader, if necessary, by stopping any laterals that try to interfere with it. In the nurseries, when hollies are stunted and bushy-headed, they are headed down with a view to obtaining a clean straight shoot; but they should not be allowed to become stunted, and then there would be no need to cut them back. In hollies and all other things, stop where necessary ; but prune not at all if you can help it.??—Gard. Chron. Large plants will bear moving: ‘if they are shifted in wet weather, as, for example, at the beginning of the July rains, or at any other period when a week or ten days of dull damp weather can be calculated upon, they are certain to succeed. The season least exposed to risk is perhaps the end of autumn, in the dull damp part of October or November; the worst season is the spring.’?——Gard. Chron. Dr. Lindley says that ‘* the most ex- peditious way of making holly-hedges is to procure large plants from some nur- sery; but, with the smallest expense and more time, the following may be recommended :— ‘¢ Gather a sufficient quantity of ber- ries when ripe; then dig a hole three or four feet deep, and throw the berries in, crushing and mixing them with some fine soil at the same time; close the hole with the soil taken out, and throw some litter, or other covering, over the whole, to prevent the wet or frost pen- etrating about them in beds. They will make nice little plants the first sea- son; and by transplanting the stronger ones, you will have fine plants in about three years. _ The holly will not thrive Cuttings. swampy situation, but likes a strong, deep, dry, loamy soil.”>—Gard. Chron. The best season for clipping hollies is early in spring, before they make: their annual growth. The European Holly does not fully resist the winter of Pennsylvania, un- less on well drained land, and further north it is probable it would suffer much more, except in the vicinity of the sea, where many plants do well that are not able to withstand the winter of the same latitude in the interior. Our own native Holly, (Ilex opaca,) is a fine plant too long overlooked.— Why do not persons of taste decorate their grounds with this noble American evergreen, which will grow in any soil, and resist the winter’s frost and sum- mer’s sun throughout the length and breadth of our continent. HOLLYHOCK (Althea rosea). There is also a sub-species. A. R. Biloba. This flower has lately gained the atten- tion from florists it deserves; and there are now many varieties. Dr. Lindley justly observes that, ‘‘ the hollyhock is little more than a biennial, and fre- quently dies suddenly if sown too early in the first season, or if allowed to re- main long in the seed-bed before trans- planting; therefore the best way to keep them in health is not to sow them before June, and when large enough to transplant them singly where they are to remain and flower in the following season: afterwards cut them down as soon as they have done flowering, and remove them toa fresh situation, where the ground has been well manured, be- fore winter. By continuing this treat- ment you may keep the same variety for years.?»—Gard. Chron. HOMERIA. Ten species. house bulbs. Offsets. sand. HONESTY. Lunaria, HONEY-BERRY. Melicocca. HONEY-DEW. See Enxtravasated Sap. HONEY-FLOWER. Melianthus. HONEY-GARLIC. Nectaroscordum. HONEYSUCKLE. (Lonicera peri- elymenum.) This hardy, beautiful, and fragrant flowering shrub will grow in almost any soil, and will thrive where few others will, under the shade of trees. There are the following sub-. species :— Green- Loam, peat, and HON 295 HOR ———_&—_——_ 1. Periclymenum Semper virens; Perfoliate evergreen; Virginia Honey- suckle, which always flowers, common- ly called Trumpet Honeysuckle. 2. Periclymenum Racemosum, Ho- neysuckle with yellowish flowers, grow- ing in bunches, and a snowy fruit. 3. Periclymenum Verticillatum, ano- ther tree-like honeysuckle, with. in- flected branches, and a coral-coloured flower. 4, Periclymenum Germanicum, the German honeysuckle. 5. Periclymenum Italianum, Italian honeysuckle. 6. Periclymenum Vulgare, honey- suckle with a corymbus of flower ter- minating the stalks, hairy leaves, grow- ing distinct, and very slender branches, commonly called English Honeysuckle, or Woodbine. 7. Periclymenum Americanum, the evergreen honeysuckle. As to the general culture, they require very little; the upright sorts in particu- jar, require to have only their straggling shoots shortened, and dead woed cut eut; and the trailing kinds, which are trained as climbers, must have their branches conducted in a proper man- ner upon their respective supports; and every year all rambling shoots must be reduced and trained as you shall see proper, so as to preserve them within due limits; unless you design they shall run wild in their own rural way, especially thase intended to climb among the branches of trees, shrubs, and bushes; those also intended and trained annually, laying the shoots along at their length, especially till they have covered the allotted space; short- ening or clearing out, however, all such stragglers as cannot be properly train- ed; likewise such of those sorts as are trained against walls, &e., must have an annual pruning and training, by go- ing over them two er three times in summer, laying in some of the most convenient shoots, some at their length, shortening or trenching others, as it shall seem necessary to preserve regu- larity, and the proper succession of flowers; observing, however, to train enough, at this time particularly, of such as shall appear necessary to con- tinue the bloom as long as possible; and in winter pruning, thin out all those Jeft in summer which may now appear superfluous, and shorten all such as are too long for the space allotted for them, especially all those with weak strag- gling tops; and nail in the remaining branches and shoots close to the wall. Propagation is effected by layers and cuttings, more particularly the latter, both of which readily emit roots, and form plants in one year, fit to trans- plant. Some sorts are also propagated by suckers and by seed. By Layers.—In autumn, winter, or spring, lay a quantity of the lower young shocts of the former summer, shortening their straggling tops; they will be well rooted by the autumn fol- lowing, each commencing a good plant, and should be taken off, and planted in nursery rows, for a year or two, to ac- quire proper size and strength for use. : By Cuttings.—Any time from Octo- ber till March, is the proper time for this work, but the sooner the better, and by which method prodigious quan- tities of the plants may be raised, as al- most every cutting will readily grow. Choose of the young shoots of the previous summer, the strongest and most robust, which divide into cuttings frem about six or eight te ten or fifteen inches long, plant them in rows in any shady border of common earth, a foot asunder, and half that distance apart in each row, or closer if greater quantities are required, putting of each cutting. two parts out of three of its length into the ground; they will take root freely, and shoot at top so as to form proper plants by autumn or winter following, at which time they may be transplanted into the nursery quarters to have more room to grow, placing them in rows two feet distance, and a foot apart in the rews, where let them remain a year or two, or till wanted fer the shrub- bery. ° By Seed.—If sowed in autumn in a bed of common mould an inch deep, many of the plants will probably rise in spring; but a great part of them are apt to remain till the second spring be- fore they appear. (Abercrombie.) HONEYWORT. Cerinthe. HOOP-PETTICOAT. Narcissus bul- bocodium. HOP-HORNBEAM. Phologophora. HOREHOUND. Marrubium. HORKELLIA. Two species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed and division. Com- mon soil. , HORMINUM pyrenaicum. Hardy a HOR 296 HOR a herbaceous. Seed and division. Com-|crowns of the roots, form the best; mon soil. those taken from the centre never be- HORN. See Animal Matters. HORNBEAM. Carpinus. HORN-OF-PLENTY. Fedia. HORN-POPPY. Glaucium. HORSE-CHESTNUT. sculus. There are the following species and varieties :— /E.. Hippocastanum. Common horse- chestnut. Asia. Seeds sown in March. Flowers in May. Height forty feet. 4E. H. folia aurea. Gold-striped horse-chestnut. ZE. H. folia argentea. horse-chestnut. These two varieties have the same characteristics as the preceding, but are propagated by grafting in March. ff, flava. Yellow horse-chestnut. LE. pavia. Scarlet horse-chestnut. /E. pavia rosea. Pale scarlet horse- chestnut. All natives of Carolina. June. Grafts. Twenty feet. Horse-chestnuts all require a light, rich, well-drained soil, and a sheltered situation, being much injured by violent winds. _ When in blossom they are strikingly beautiful, and their round heads group well with trees having more pointed forms. They may all be grafted on the common horse-chestnut, which is increased by seed or layers. HORSE-CHESTNUT MOTH. See Bombyz. HORSE-RADISH. Cochlearia Armo- racia. Delights in adeep, mouldy, rich soil, kept as much as possible in a mo- derate but regular degree of moistness. Hence the banks of a ditch, or other place which has a constant supply of water, is a most eligible situation for the beds, so that they do not lie so low as to have it in excess. If the soil is poor, or beneath the drip of trees, the roots never attain any considerable size. Manures.—Should the ground require to be enriched, leaf-mould, or other tho- roughly decayed vegetable substance, should be dug into the depth at which the sets are intended to be planted. If cow or horse-dung be employed, it should be in a highly putrescent state. Propagation. — Horse-radish flowers in June, but in this climate seldom per- fects its seed, consequently it is propa- gated by sets, which are provided by cutting the main root and offsets into lengths of two inches. The tops, or Silver-striped coming so soon fit for use, or of so fine a growth. If the latter are, however, unavoidably employed, each set should have at least two eyes; for without one they refuse to vegetate at all. For the obtaining a supply of the crowns, any inferior piece of ground, planted with sets six inches apart and six deep, will furnish from one to five tops each, and may be collected for several successive years with little more trouble than keeping them clear of weeds; but the times for planting are in October and February —the first for dry soils, the latter season for moist ones. The sets are inserted in rows eighteen inches apart each way. The ground should be trenched between two and three feet deep, the cuttings being placed along the bottom of the trench, and the mould turned from the next one over them, or inserted to a similar depth by a long blunt-pointed dibble. They should be placed in their natural position, which has considerable influ- ence over the furwardness of their growth; the surface raked level, and kept clear of weeds until the plants are of such size as-to render it unneces- sary. The mould ought to lie as light as possible over the sets; therefore, treading on the beds should be carefully avoided. The shoots make their ap- pearance in May or June, or even ear-. lier if they were plénted in autumn. As the leaves decay in autumn, have them carefully removed; the ground being also hoed and raked over at the same season, which may be repeated in the following spring before they be- gin to vegetate, at which time eighteen inches depth of mould to be laid regu- larly and lightly over the bed. In the succeeding autumn they mere- ly require to be hoed as before, and may be taken up as wanted. By having three beds devoted to this root, one will always be lying fallow and im- proving ; of which period likewise ad- vantage should be taken to apply any requisite manure. If, when of advanced growth, the plants throw out suckers, these should be carefully removed, during the sum- mer, as they appear. In September or October of the se- cond year, as before stated, the roots may be taken up; and in November a HOR 297 HOR ——_@_— sufficient quantity should be raised to preserve in sand for winter supply. Taking up.— To take them up a trench is dug along the outside row down to the bottom of the upright roots, which, by some persons, when the bed is continued in one place, are cut off level to the original stool, and the earth from the next row is then turned over them to the requisite depth; and so in rotation to the end of the plantation. By this mode a bed will continue in perfection for five or six years; after which a fresh plantation is usually necessary. But the best prac- tice is to take the crop up entirely, and to form a plantation annually; for it not only causes the roots to be finer, but also affords the opportunity of changing the site. If this mode is fol- lowed care must be taken to raise every lateral root; for almost the smallest of them will vegetate, if left in the ground. ‘HORSE-RADISH TREE. Moringa. HORSE-THISTLE. Cirsium. HORTICULTURE (from hortus, garden, and colo, I till) includes in its most extensive signification, the culti- vation of esculent vegetables, fruits and ornamental plants, and the formation and management of rural scenery for the purposes of utility and embellish- ment. The earliest effort of man to emerge from a state of barbarism was directed to the tillage of the earth: the first seed which he planted was the first act of civilization, and gardening was the first step in the career of re- finement ; but still it is an art in which he last reaches perfection. When the savage exchanges the wild and wander- ing life of a warrior and hunter, for the confined and peaceful pursuits of a planter, the harvests, herds, and flocks take the place of the simple garden. The mechanic arts are next developed ; then commerce commences, and manu- factures soon succeed. As wealth in- creases, ambition manifests itself in the splendor of apparel, of mansions, equipages and entertainments. Science, literature, and the fine arts are unfold- ed, and a high degree of civilization is attained. It is not until all this has taken place, that horticulture is culti- vated as one of the ornamental arts. Egypt, the cradle of civilization, so far perfected her tillage, that the banks of the Nile were adorned by a succession of luxuriant plantations, from the cata- ract of Syene to the shores of the Delta; but it was when Thebes with its hun- dred brazen gates, and the cities of Memphis and Heliopolis, were rising in magnificence, and her stupendous pyramids, obelisks, and temples, be- came the wonders of the world. The hills and plains of Palestine were ce- lebrated for beautiful gardens; but it was not until the walls and temple of Jerusalem announced the power and. intelligence of the Israelites, and the prophets had rebuked their luxury and extravagance. The queen of the East ‘¢ had heard of the fame of Solomon ;?? his fleets had brought him the gold of Ophir, and the treasures of Asia and Africa; the kings of Tyre and Arabia were his tributaries, and princes his merchants, when he “‘ made orchards,”? ‘‘ delighted to dwell in gardens,” and planted the “‘ vineyard of Baalhaman.”? The Assyrians had peopled the borders of the Tigris and Euphrates, from the Persian gulf to the mountainous re- gions of Ararat, and their monarchs had founded Nineveh and Babylon, before we hear of the gardens of Semiramis. The Persian empire had extended from the Indus to the Archipelago, when the paradise of Sardis excited the astonish- ment of a Spartan general, and Cyrus mustered the Grecian auxiliaries in the spacious garden of Celene. The Greeks had repulsed the invasions of Darius and Xerxes, and Athens had reached the height of her glory, when Cimon established the Academus, and presented it to his fellow citizens as a public garden. Numerous others were soon planted, and decorated with tem- - ples, porticoes, altars, statues and tri- umphal monuments; but this was dur- ing the polished age of Pericles, when Socrates and Plato taught philosophy in the sacred groves; when the theatre was thronged to listen to the poetry of Euripedes and Aristophanes; when the genius of Phidias was displayed in rear- ing the Parthenon and sculpturing the statues of the gods; when eloquence and painting had reached perfection, and history was illustrated by Herodotus, Thucydides, and Xenophon. Rome had subjugated the world, and emulated Athens in literature, science, and the arts, when the superb villas of Sallust, Crassus, Pompey, Cesar, Mecenas and Agrippina were erected, and the pa- laces. of the emperors were environed HOR 298 HOR —_o—_—— by magnificent gardens. The history of modern nations presents similar re- sults. Horticulture long lingered in the rear of other pursuits. Most of the common fruits, flowers and oleraceous vegetables which had been collected by the Greeks and Romans, from Egypt, Asia and other distant climes, were successively extended over Western Europe; but so gradual was their pro- gress, after the dark ages, that, till | the reign of Henry VIII., scarcely any kitchen vegetables were cultivated in England, and the small quantity con- sumed was imported from Holland. Fuller observes, that ‘‘ gardening was first brought into England, for profit, about the commencement of the 17th century. Peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, pears, cherries, strawberries, melons, and grapes, were luxuries but little enjoyed before the time of Charles II., who introduced French gardening at Hampton court, Carlton and Marl- borough, and built the first hot and ice houses. At this period Evelyn, trans- lated the ** Complete Gardener,”? and a treatise on orange trees, by Quintinyne; and, having devoted the remainder of his life to the cultivation of his rural seat at Sayes court, near Deptford, and the publication of his Sylva, Terra, Pomona, and Acetaria, ke ‘ first taught gardening to speak proper English.’ In the Netherlands, France, Germany, and Italy, a formal and very imperfect system of gardening was practised with considerable success; but it was ge- nerally in a languishing condition, throughout the world, until the com- mencement of the 18th century, when it attracted the attention of some of the first characters of Great Britain; but the establishment of the present im- proved style of horticulture is of very recent date. ‘* Bacon was the prophet, Milton the herald, and Addison, Pope and Kent the champions of true taste.” The principles which were developed in their writings, and those of Shenstone, the Masons, and Wheatley, were suc- cessfully applied by Bridgeman, Wright, Brown, and Eames; thesystem soon be- came popular, and gradually extended over Europe, and ultimately reached the United States. But the labours of the London Horticultural Society have mainly contributed to the perfection and present high estimation of gardening. That noble institution has given an im- petus to cultivation, which is felt in the remotest countries. been followed in the most flourishing kingdoms of the eastern continent, and many similar institutions have been founded in the United States. The ef- fect of these is to diffuse through every country the knowledge and products of all. The history, literature and scjence of gardening, open a wide field for stu- dy and inquiry. The pleasure which gardens afforded men, even in the ear- liest times, appears from the scriptural account of the garden of Eden. The garden of Gethsemane, and that of the good and just Arimathean, are memor- able in the sacred history of the Messiah. The Elysian fields were the heaven of classic mythology, and the devout Mus- sulman hopes to renew his existence in a celestial paradise. The bards, scholars and philosophers of the classic ages, have transmitted descriptions of the gardens of the ancients, from those in which Homer places the palace of Alcinous and the cottage of Lertes, to the splendid villas of Pliny and Lucullus. Among the ancient Greek writers, Hesiod, Theophrastus, Xen- ophon and ‘lian treated of gardens to a certain extent; and the works of those who wrote after the seat of go- vernment was removed to Constantin- ople were collected under the title of Geoponica, and have been translated by Owen. Among the Latins, Varro was the first author, to whom succeeded Cato, Pliny the Elder, Columella and Palladius. Passages are to be found, relative to the subject, in Martial, Virgil and Horace; but Pliny’s Natural Histo- ry, and Columella’s book on gardens, contain the most correct informatio on Roman horticulture. Literature an the arts having revived in Italy, that. country was the first to produce books on agriculture and gardening, and that of Crescenzia became celebrated. The field and garden cultures of Italy are so nearly allied, and horticulture and agriculture have been so blended by the writers, that it is difficult to ascertain under which department to include their works. The best for general informa- tion on the tillage of that delightful region is the Annali dell’? Agricultura. The Germans, as in all the branches of letters, science, and arts, have an im- mense number of books in the depart- ment of gardening, especially on the Its example has rie HOR 299 HOR i subject of planting and forest trees. Those which furnish the best idea of the state of culture in that country, are Dietrich’s Worterbuch, with the supple- ment of 1820, and Sickler’s Deutsche Handwirtshaft. The Dutch excel more in the practice than the literature of gardening. They have no work of very recent date; that of Comelin, which was published about the middle of the 17th century, is among the earliest; and those of La Court and Van Osten are said to be among the best that have appeared. The Journal of a Horticul- tural Tour in Holland and Flanders, by a deputation of the Caledonian Horti- cultural Society, gives the most satis- factory account of gardening in that part of the continent, in 1817. Transactions of the Stockholm and Upsal academies furnish the chief information which is to be obtained, in relation to the rural economy of Sweden. The first author was Rudbeck, who was a cotemporary of Commelin. Russia and Poland have produced but very few original books on horticulture. The Agricultural Transactions occasionally published by a society in Warsaw, with those of the Economical Society of St. Petersburg, may be considered as af- fording the most accurate intelligence as to the culture of those countries. In the Jatter city is an extensive imperial botanical garden, which being under the direction of able professors, emulates those of the more favoured portions of southern Europe. The only recorded source for obtaining any knowledge of Spanish tillage, are the Transactions of the Royal Agricultural Society of Madrid. The horticultural literature of France is of an early date, and the authors are not only numerous, but many of them in the highest repute. Etienne.and Belon were the pioneers, while Du Hamel, Girardin, D?Argen- ville, Rossier, Tessier, Calvel, Noisette, Du Petit Thours, Jean and Gabriel Thouin, Bosc and Vicomte Haricart de Thury, may be considered as among the most able of their followers, in the various branches of rural economy. For a general knowledge of French: culture, the Nouveau Cours d@?Agricul- ture, in thirteen volumes, published in ~ 1810, should be consulted; but the most valuable publications on the exist- ing mode of gardening, are the monthly Annales de la Société d’ Horticulture, The’ the Annales de l’Institut Royal Horti-. cole de Framont, and the Bon Jardinier, an annual publication compiled by pro- fessor Poiteau and Vilmorin. The first English treatise on rural economy was Fitzherbert’s Book of Husbandry, which was published in 1634. The works of Tusser, George and Platt soon after ap- peared, and, early in the 18th century, the celebrated treatise of Jethro Tull excited much attention; and several new works of considerable merit were announced before 1764, when the valu- able publications of Arthur Young, Marshal, and numerous other authors, spread a knowledge of cultivation, and cherished a taste for rural improve- ments, throughout Great Britain. The literature of horticulture rapidly ad- vanced; but as many of the most emi- nent writers have been named, in treat- ing of the science and art of gardening, it is unnecessary to mention them in this place. The citizens of the United States have been chiefly dependent on England for books relating to agricul- ture and gardening. Still several have appeared by native writers, which are highly creditable to the authors and the country; especially those which relate to the botanical department. Muhlen- burg, Bigelow, Eliot, Torry, Colden, Bartram, Barton, Hosack, Mitchel, Dar- lington, Ives, Dewey and Hitchcock, are entitled to great praise for their successful attempts to illustrate the American flora. One of the earliest writers on husbandry was Belgrove, who published a treatise on husband- ry, in Boston, in 1755; and in 1790 Deane’s New England Farmer appeared; but McMahon, Cox, Thacher, Adlam, Prince, Buntly, Butler, Nicholson and Fessenden, since the’ commencement of the present century, have produced works on the various cultures of the United States, which are generally cir- culated, and held in great estimation. The scientific relations of horticulture are numerous, and require an extensive acquaintance with the various branches of natural history and physics. Bota- ny, mineralogy, chemistry, hydraulics, architecture and mechanics must furnish their several contributions, which it is the province of the artist to apply. After the illustrious Linneus published his system of Nature, botany became a popular science, and a variety of in= teresting elementary works awakened a, te st a ES ee HOR 306 HOR —9——. attention to the beauties of nature, and a passion for experimental and orna- mental planting was induced, which has been productive of great results. Mineralogy enables us to obtain ac- eurate knowledge of terrestrial sub- stances, and the mode of distinguishing the divers kinds of earths, which con- stitute a cultivable soil ; and chemistry instructs us as to the nature and pro- perties of these various earths, having for its objects, when applied to horti- culture, all those changes in the ar- rangements of matter, which are con- nected with the growth and nourishment of plants, the comparative value of their produce as food, the constitution of soils, the manner in which lands are enriched by manure, or rendered fertile by the different processes of cultivation. Inquiries of such a nature cannot but be interesting and important, both to the theoretical horticulturist and the practical gardener. To the first they are necessary in applying most of the fundamental principles on which the theory of the art depends. To the se- cond they are useful in affording simple and easy experiments for directing his labours, and for enabling him to pursue a certain and systematic plan of im- provement. To hydraulics belong, not only the conducting and raising of water with the construction of pumps and other engines for those purposes, but the laws which explain the nature of springs and fountains. By the principles of that science, artificial lakes, canals and aqueducts are formed, irrigations pro- jected, and water rendered subservient to the useful purposes of life, as well as to the embellishments of pleasure- grounds by jets d’eau, cascades and streams. Architecture, as a branch of horticulture, is of the first importance. Without its aid, it would be impossible to give that propriety and elegance to the scenery, and to produce that pleas- ing effect, which is the chief object of landscape gardening. Mechanics, in all its branches, is required for the purposes of horticulture. Great improvements have been effected in gardening within the last half century. During the age of Cicero, a formal kind of gardening prevailed, characterized by clipped hedges and long avenues of trees. Pliny the Younger has given an account of his villa at Laurentum, and from the description, it was rather distinguished for its numerous superb edifices, exten- sive prospects, and the systematical arrangement of the pleasure grounds, than for the improvements and decora- tions of the surrounding scenery, in accordance with those principles which are derived from a close observance of the pleasing effects of nature. The rural] residences of the Romans appear to have been mere places of temporary retreat, and were planted with odorife- rous flowers and shrubs and ornamented rather by the civil architect than the horticultural artist. From the estab- lishment of the papal government to the commencement of the 13th centu- ry, the monks were the only class of persons who attended to ornamental gardening. After that period, the style prevalent throughout Europe consisted in tall hedges, square parterres fantas- tically planted, straight walks, and rows of trees uniformly placed and pruned. In fact, but little improvement was made from the time of the emperors Vespasian and Titus until the reign of George III. of England. It is true, Hampton Court had been laid out by Cardinal Wolsey ; Le Notre had plant- ed Greenwich and St. James’s Park during the reign of Charles II. ; and, in that of George II., Queen Caroline had enlarged Kensington Gardens, and form- ed the Serpentine river; but Lord Ba- thurst was the first who deviated from straight lines, as applied to ornamental pieces of water, by following the natu- ral courses ofa valley. Still, what has been emphatically called the Dutch sys- tem universally prevailed, and the shear- ing of yew, box and holly into formal figures of various kinds, and the shaving of river banks into regular slopes, went on until their absurdity became con- temptible, and a better and more natural taste was induced. Verdant sculpture, regular precision in the distribution of compartments and rectangular boundary walls, yielded to more chaste designs. Bridgeman succeeded to Loudon (not the distinguished author) and Wise, and be- came a distinguished artist; he rejected many of the absurd notions of his pre- decessors, and enlarged the bounds of horticulture. Other innovators depart- ed from the rigid rules of symmetry ; but it was reserved for Kent to realize the beautiful descriptions of the poets, and carry the ideas of Milton, Pope, Addison and Mason more extensively HOR 301 HOR —_@—— into execution. According to Lord Walpole, he was painter enough to taste the charms of landscape, suffi- ciently bold and opinionative to dare and to dictate, and born with a genius to strike out a great system from the twilight of imperfect essays. He leap- ed the fence, and saw that all nature was agarden. The great principles on which he worked were perspective, light and shade. Groups of trees broke a too extensive lawn; evergreens and wood were opposed to the glare of the champaign, and, by selecting favourite objects, and veiling deformities, he re- alized the compositions of the great masters in painting. Where objects were wanting to animate his horizon, his taste as an architect could immedi- ately produce them. His buildings, his temples, his seats, were more the work of his pencil than of his science as a constructor. He bade adieu to -all the stiff modes of canals, circular basins, and cascades tumbling over marble steps. Dealing in none but the true colours of nature, and seizing upon its most interesting features, a new creation was gradually presented. The living landscape was chastened or po- lished, not transformed. The elegant works of Repton, the unrivalled essays of Price on the picturesque, and the valuable publications of Gilpin, Madock, Panty, Sang and Loudon, with those of many other writers on landscape and ornamental gardening, have had an ex- tensive influence in promoting correct ideas of natural scenery. The improv- ed style of horticulture, every where apparent in Great Britain, attracted the attention of the other nations of Europe, and English gardening became the de- signation for all that was beautiful in that pleasing art—the synonyme of per- fection in rural culture. At the period when this new system of laying out ground was gaining converts, and be- gan to be practically adopted, Viscount Girardin, a French military officer of high rank, travelled through England, and, on his return, he not only improved his seat at Ermenonville in conformity to that style, but published a work of great celebrity on the Composition des Paysages sur le Terrain, ou des Moyens @embellir la Nature prés des Habita- tions. The French style of laying out gardens had been settled by Le Notre, during the reign of Louis XIV., and continued in repute for upwards of a century ; for it appears to have been in vogue as late as 1770. The court and nation-wished to be dazzled by novelty and singularity, and his long, clipped alleys, triumphal arches, richly deco- rated parterres, his fountains and cas- cades, with their grotesque and strange ornaments, his groves full of architec- ture and gilt trellises, and his profusion of statues, enchanted every class of ob- servers. His principal works were the gardens of Versailles, Meudon, St. Cloud, Sceaux, Chantilly, and the ter- race of St. Germain. Gray, the poet, was struck with their splendor when filled with company, and when the water-works were in full action; but Lord Kaimes says, they would tempt one to believe, that nature was below the notice of a great monarch. Le Notre was succeeded by Dufresny, who, differing considerably in taste from that great artist, determined on inventing a more picturesque style; but his efforts were rarely carried into full execution. He, however, constructed in a manner superior to his predecessor, the gardens of Abbé Pajot and those of Moulin and Chemin creux. After the peace of 1762, the English system began to pass into France, and portions of ancient gardens were destroyed, to make way for young plantations ¢ Anglaise.- Laugier was the first author who espoused the Eng- lish style, and the next in order was Prevot. It was at this time that Viscount Girardin commenced his improvements at Ermenonville, and the change of the horticultural taste in France, may be referred to the last quarter of the 18th century. The English style has gra- dually found its way into most civilized countries. Only 25 years have elapsed since the London Horticultural Society was established, and there are now more than 50 similar institutions in Great Britain, which still maintains the first rank in the art; but France is making great efforts to rival her. A horticul- tural society was established in Paris in 1826, and has already more than two thousand members, and the number is rapidly increasing. It has been patron- ised by the court, and most of the nobles and men of distinction in France have eagerly united with the proprietors of es- tates and practical cultivators to collect and disseminate intelligence throughout that flourishing empire. In the various HOR 302 HOR —@——_ provinces where horticultural societies have not been founded, those of agri- culture, or of the sciences and arts, have established departments expressly devoted to that interesting pursuit; and during the year 1827, a practical and theoretical institution was founded at Fromont, by the enlightened and mu- nificient Chevalier Soulange Bodin, for educating gardeners, and introducing improvements in every department of horticulture. The garden contains about 130 acres, and is divided into compart- ments for every variety of culture. Extensive green-houses, stoves and orangeries have been erected, and all the other appendages furnished, which are requisite for rendering the establish- ment effectual for instruction and ex- periment, The nursery of the Luxem- bourg long supplied a great part of Europe with fruit trees. The Jardin des Plantes, in Paris, includes compart- ments, which may be considered as schools for horticulture, planting, agri- culture, medical botany and general economy, and is unquestionably the most scientific and best managed estab- lishment in Europe. The flower garden of Malmaison, the botanical garden of Trianon, and numerous nursery, herb, medicinal, experimental and botanical gardens, in various parts of the king- dom, are pre-eminent for the variety, number and excellence of their pro- ducts. Holland has been distinguished, since the period of the crusades, for her flower gardens, culinary vegetables, and plantations of fruit trees. The north of Europe and the United States are still] dependent upon her florists for the most splendid varieties of bulbous- rooted plants; and her celebrated nur- series, which have long replenished those of Europe, have been recently fortunate in the acquisition of Van Mons and Duquesne. Some of the finest fruits of our gardens were pro- duced by these indefatigable experi- mentalists, and, with the excellent va- rieties created by Knight, promise to replace those which have either become extinct, or are so deteriorated in qua- lity, as to discourage their cultivation. From St. Petersburg to the shores of the Mediterranean, horticulture has made a rapid progress, and each nation is emulous to perfect its culture, in ac- cordance with the most improved prin- ciples of science, art and taste. In the United States, a like spirit has been more recently developed. Horti- cultural societies have been instituted in New York, Philadelphia, Boston, Albany, Geneva, and South Carolina, and a zealous disposition evinced to compete with the nations of the eastern continent. The environs of many of the cities are in a high state of cultiva- tion, and the markets are beginning to be well stocked with numerous varie- ties of fruits and vegetables. It is now the duty of American cultivators to re- ciprocate the benefits which they have so long received from their transatlantic brethren, and to develope the resources of a country, which offers such an ex- tensive range of research to the natu- ralist. Many of the most useful and magnificent acquisitions of the groves, fields, gardens and conservatories of Europe are natives of the western he- misphere. The indigenous forest trees, ornamental shrubs, flowers, fruits, and edible vegetables of North America, are remarkable for their variety, size, splendour or value. Extending from the pole to the tropics, and from the At- lantic to the Pacific, North America embraces every clime, and every vari- ety of soil, teeming with innumerable specimens of the vegetable kingdom. With such advantages, most of which are included within the United States, it is to be expected that the citizens will be as distinguished for their ad- vancement in rural economy as in civil and religious freedom. The natural divisions of horticulture are the esculent or kitchen garden, seminary, nursery, fruit trees, and vines, flower garden, green-houses, arboretum of ornamental trees and shrubs, the botanical and medical garden, and landscape or pic- turesque gardening. Each of these departments requires to be separately studied before it can be managed so as to combine utility and comfort with ornament and recreation. To accom- plish this on a large scale, artists, scientific professors, and intelligent and experienced practical superintendents, are employed in Europe, but they have not as yet been much required in the United States. The owners of the soil have generally designed and executed such improvements as have been made in the conveniences and embellishments of country residences. The kitchen garden is an indispensable appendage HOR 303 HOR ene to every rural establishment. In its); mentable negligence of this delightful simplest form, it is the nucleus of all others. Containing small compartments for the culture of esculent vegetables, fruits and ornamental plants, these may be gradually extended, until the whole estate assumes the imposing aspect of picturesque or Jandscape scenery. The details of the several grand divisions of horticulture are to be learned from the numerous authors who have devoted their especial attention to each, and those which have been named, with many others, should be consulted by every gentleman who wishes to parti- cipate in the comforts and luxuries of a garden. The most valuable and in- teresting branches of gardening to the citizens of the United States, generally, are of course those which include the culture of esculent vegetables, fruits and ornamental plants. These may be enjoyed, in various degrees, by all the proprietors of the soil. It is only ne- cessary that information should be dis- seminated, and examples presented by the more intelligent and opulent, to remove the too common prejudice, that gardens are costly and useless append- ages, requiring great expenditure and labour, without any adequate profit or satisfaction. So far from this, there is not a farmer, not an owner of an acre of land, who will not be enriched or gratified by devoting a portion of his industry to the tillage of a garden: they may find many hours which can be thus profitably and pleasantly em- ployed. Personal attention, with judi- cious arrangements, and a proper divi- ‘sion of labour, will accomplish much. Many of the most valuable products of agriculture were first introduced, and their qualities tested, in the garden. ‘‘ If, therefore,”? says the learned and eloquent Poiteau, “‘ we would ascend to the origin of Agriculture, it is in the garden that her cradle will be found. There, like the young Hercules, she first tried her powers, and prepared, like him, to overrun the world, which she speedily cleared of monsters, and bestowed upon man the laws of civil- ization.”?> Although commendable ef- forts have been made, in several parts of the country, to introduce and mul- tiply all kinds of esculent vegetables, most of the choice varieties of fruits, and many of the ornamental trees and ~plants, still there is a general and la- culture. In England, the eye is con- tinually struck with cottages embowered amidst fruit trees, shrubs and flowers, while a neat compartment of esculent vegetables supplies much of the food for the support of the inmates. In Germany, Holland, and a portion of Italy, it is the general attention which all ranks bestow upon the grounds sur- rounding their habitations, that gives such a pleasing aspect to those coun- tries. But little attention has been paid in the United States to the planting of forest trees, ornamental shrubs and flowers, although the native varieties are numerous, highly valued in other countries, and constitute the most in- teresting exhibitions in those celebrated establishments, which are enriched by collections from all quarters of the globe. Arboriculture claims attention, not merely for the purposes of rural embellishment, but to replace the valu- able timber trees, which are fast disap- pearing throughout the Atlantic states. The forest trees of North America ex- ceed 140, while in Europe there are only 37. There are 53 species of the oak, 17 of the pine, 15 of the walnut, and 8 of the maple. Of those magnifi- cent trees which compose the genus of the magnolia, but 15 are known, 9 of which belong to the United States. In all ages and countries, flowers have been universally cherished. ‘* Who,”? asks Boursault, ‘‘does not love flow- ers? They embellish our gardens ; they give a more brilliant lustre to our festivals; they are the interpreters of ouraffections ; they are the testimonials of our gratitude; we present them to those to whom we are under obliga- tions; they are often necessary to the pomp of our religious ceremonies, and they seem to associate and mingle their perfumes, with the purity of our pray- ers, and the homage which we address to the Almighty. Happy are those who love and cultivate them.’? The ancients paid particular attention to flowers. They were in great request at the en- tertainments of the wealthy ; they were scattered before the triumphal chariots of conquerors; they formed the dis- tinguishing insignia of many divinities ; they glitter as gems in the diadem of the seasons, and constitute the mys- tical language of poetry. We are told that Descartes prosecuted, with equal | | HOS 304 HOT —_—-———— ardour, astronomy and the culture of flowers. The great Condé devoted his leisure hours to that delightful pursuit, and the vase of flowers was daily re- newed upon the table of Lord Bacon, while composing the volumes of his sublime philosophy. In the cities of Europe, flower-markets, for the sale of bouquets and ornamental plants, are as common as those for fruits. In this new world, these delicate daughters of the sun have not received that atten- tion which indicates the highest state of civilization: but a taste for floriculture is increasing throughout the Union, and ornamental plants embellish the country seats of the opulent and the dwellings of honest industry. Botani- cal gardens have been established in several of the states, and the large cities can now boast of their marts and exhibitions of flowers. One of the greatest impediments to the progress of horticulture in the United States has been the deficiency of nurseries, both as to number and extent. They are not only requisite for furnishing the va- rious kinds of trees and plants which are demanded for utility and embel- lishment, but to give publicity to the most valuable and interesting species, as well as to excite a taste for their cultivation. These establishments, how- ever, have been much increased and improved within a few years, and there are several in the vicinity of Boston, New York, Albany, Philadelphia, and in the district of Columbia, which are highly creditable to the proprietors and to the country..—Encyc. Am. HOSACKIA. Four species. Hardy herbaceous. Division and seed. Com- mon soil. HOSE-IN-HOSE is a form of double flowers, when one corolla is inserted within the other, as is frequently the case with the primrose. HOSTA. Three species. Stove ever- green shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and Joam. HOT-BED. When a temperature of 45°, moisture, and atmospheric air oc- cur to deaden vegetable matters, these absorb large quantities of oxygen, evol- ving also an equal volume of carbonic acid. Asin all other instances where vegetable substances absorb oxygen gas in large quantities, much heat is evolved by them when putrefying; and advan- tage is taken of this by employing leaves, stable-litter, and tan, as sources of heat, or hot-beds, in the gardener’s forcing department. A hot-bed is usually made of stable- dung, of which that made by the best fed horses is to be preferred. It should be about ten days from the stalls, and without too large a proportion of litter. After being thrown into a heap, of conic form, for five or six days, it must be so turned over, that the inner parts are brought to the outside, the clots\ well separated with the fork, the heap being re-formed conically as before, and left for an equal number of days. By this time and treatment the dung in genera] acquires a sufficient and steady heat; if, however, it is very dry and fresh, it must be moderately moistened, and left for five or six days more. At the time of forming the heap, as well as at every turning, water. should be applied if its substance appears at all df¥qas a regu- lar state of moisture is of «first import- ance to the obtaining a favourable fer- mentation. It should remain until the straw in general assumes a dark brown colour, when it should be immediately formed into the bed. Leaves or tan may be mixed with advantage, as heat is thereby generated during a greater length of time. In cold, wet, or bois- terous weather, the heaps should be covered to a moderate depth with lit- ter. . In making the beds, they must be so situated as to be entirely free from the overshadowing of trees, buildings, &c., and having an aspect rather a point eastward of the south. A reed fence surrounding them on all-sides isa. shel- ter that prevents any reverberation of the wind, an evil which is caused by paling or other solid inclosure. This must be ten feet high to the northward or back part, of a similar height at the side, but in front onlysix. The wicket or gate must be of sufficient width to admit a loaded wheelbarrow. An in- closure of this description, one hundred feet in length and sixty broad, will be of a size sufficiently large for the pursuit of every description of hot-bed forcing. But for cucumbers, melons, and a few inferior articles, a space for six or eight lights is sufficient. Fruit may be forced slightly by being trained within it on the southern aspect; the fence on that side in that case must be of brick or wood. - Me To prevent unnecessary labour, this HOT 305 HOT ——e—__- inclosure should be formed as near to the stable as possible. For the recep- tion of the bed, a trench is often dug of its determined length and breadth, and six inches deep, if the soil is wet, or eighteen or more if it is dry. In a dry soil and climate this cannot be pro- ductive of much injury, but otherwise it almost always chills the bed: at the same time it is to be observed, that it is never productive of benefit, further than not being so high; it is easier of access, but gives much additional trou- ble, both at the time of founding and afterwards, when linings are to be ap- plied. The site of the bed being determined, a stake should be driven perpendicu- larly at the four corners as a guide for its rectangular construction. The dung must be thoroughly mixed just before it is used, and as carefully separated and spread regularly with the fork, as the bed is formed with it. Itis beneficially settled down in every part alike by beating with the fork as the work pro- ceeds, rather than by treading; for if too much compressed, a high degree of heat is generated but is soon spent: a contrary phenomenon is often caused iftrod to a still greater excess, namely, that no heat at all is engendered. The longest or littery part of the dung should be laid at the bottom of the bed, and the finer fragments of the dung upon the top. If it is not regu- larly and moderately moist throughout, it should be sprinkled over with water. As the surface on which the bed is founded is usually horizontal, so is the dung laid perfectly parallel with it. Mr. Knight recommends it, on the contrary, to be equally inclined with its founda- tion, that it may associate well with the new form, which he recommends for frames. See Frame. The breadth of a bed must always be five feet, and in the depth of winter four and a half feet high when firmly settled; to form it of this size, about twelve barrow loads of dung are re- quired to a light. In early spring, a height of three and a half feet is sufficient, and as the sea- son advances, it may decline to three or two and a half feet. In May or early summer, when the only object is to hasten the germination of seeds, two feet or eighteen inches is not less than the necessary height. The length of 20 the bed in all cases must be guided by. the size of the frame. To prevent the sudden changes of temperature in the external air affect- ing the heat of the bed, coat the sides. of the bed with sand; coal-ashes or earth might be substituted, to a thick- ness of two feet. As the heat declines, linings, or as. they might be more properly called, coatings, are made use of, which con- sist of hot fermenting dung laid from eighteen to twenty-four inches, in pro- portion to the coldness of the season, &c., all round the bed to the whole of its height, and if founded in a trench, one equally deep must be dug for the coating, it being of importance to re- new the heat as much as _ possible throughout its whole mass; if, after a while, the temperature again declines, the old coating must be taken away, and a similar one of hot dung applied in its place. As the spring advances, the warmth of the sun will compensate for the decline of that of the bed; but as the nights are generally yet cold, either a moderate coating, about nine or ten inches thick, is required, or the mowings of grass, or even litter, may be laid round the sides with advantage. The depth of earth, as well as the time and manner of applying, vary con- siderably; it should never be put on until four or five days after the bed is formed: before it is applied, the edges of the bed should be raised full eight inches higher than the middle, as from the additional weight of the frame they are sure to sink more and quicker, thereby often causing the earth to crack and injure the roots of the plants. The roots of plants being liable to injury from an excessive heat in the bed, several plans have been devised to prevent this effect. If the plants in pots are plunged in the earth of the bed, they may be raised an inch or two from the bottom of the holes they are inserted in by means ofa stone. Buta still more effectual mode is to place them within other pots, rather larger than themselves; a space filled with air being thus interposed between the roots and the source of heat, an effect- ual security is obtained. To prevent. the same injury occurring when the plants are in the earth of the bed, a moderate layer of neats’-dung laid be- tween the earth and the fermenting he HOT 306 HOT —_@e—- mass, is an efficient precaution, and is much preferable to a similarly placed layer of turf, which interrupts too much the full benefit of the heat. A plan re- commended by Bradley is well worthy of notice. A woven hurdle somewhat larger than the frame being placed upon the dung, on this its woodwork can rest, and the earth is laid within it, thus the whole can be moved to- gether without disturbance. This would especially be of advantage when bark is employed, which requires occasional Stirring to renew its heat in case of emergency, when time cannot be al- lowed for the bed becoming regular in its heat before the plants are inserted. Besides these precautions, vacancies should be left in the mould, and holes bored with a thick pole into the bed, which must be filled up with hay or dung when the danger is passed. For ascertaining the internal temper- ature of the bed, the thermometer is the only certain guide, as it also is for judging of the temperature of the air within the frame; the mode of intro- ducing it into the body of the bed, is to have the thermometer inclosed in a wooden case of the size and form of an ordinary dibble, which is to be lined with baize and fitted with a cap of thinned iron to exclude the exterior temperature. The end which enters the earth is shod with perforated cop- per. In conjunction with the ther- mometer, trying sticks may be employ- ed for occasional observation; these are smooth laths of wood, about two feet in length, thrust into different parts of the bed, which, being drawn out and grasped quickly, ‘afford a rough esti- mate of the heat of the bed. The small extent of the frame, and the rapid deterioration of the air within it by the plants, render its frequent re- newal necessary. To effect this, the common practice is to raise the glasses in proportionate heights according to the state of the air; and to prevent any injury arising when necessarily admitted during inclement weather, mats are hung over the opening; but notwith- standing these precautions, the supply of air can seldom be regular; hence, and from sudden chills, the plants are often checked, and sometimes essen- tially injured. It may be remarked here, that raw foggy days, if anything, are more unfavourable than those that are frosty for the admission of air. A complete remedy for all these difficul- ties is afforded by a plan, which suc- ceeds on the principle that warm air ascends, and simply consists of a pipe passed. through the body of the bed, and one end communicating with the exterior air, the other opening into the frame, at one of the top corners of which an aperture must be made; the heated air of the frame will constantly be issuing from this aperture, and its place supplied by that which rises through the pipe. A pipe of lead may be used, about two or three inches in diameter, bent nearly at a right angle, and each limb being three feet long, one of these to be placed horizontally, as the bed is forming, with its mouth extending in the open air, that of the other opening into the frame; a cap should be fitted to the first, and by a slit on its under side, the quantity of air admitted can be regulated. Although stable manure is generally employed for the constructing of hot- beds, yet there are several other vege- table matters that are also in use for the same purpose. ‘Tanner’s bark. from its long continuance and regu- larity of heat, is much to be preferred, especially for very tender exotics. In many situations it can be obtained at a cheaper rate than stable dung ; it should be employed when fresh drawn from the vats, or at most when a fortnight or three weeks old; it must lay in a heap for six or eight days tovallow the escape of the superfluous moisture : in summer this is not of such material consequence, as an excess of wet is, at that season, not so liable to prevent fermentation. If the ground is dry, a pit three feet deep may be dug, and is better lined with slates, boards, or brickwork, but whatever may be the nature of the soil, it is best to form this case or bin of a similar height upon the surface. With- out some support the tan will not form a solid bed, and if mould becomes mixed with it, the fermentation is re- tarded or entirely prevented. The breadth must not be less than five or six feet, or of a Jength shorter than ten or twelve, otherwise the heat will not be lasting. When the bark is laid, it must be gently settled with the fork, but never trodden upon; for if violently compressed, it loses the power of fer- menting; if the bark is fresh and not HOT 307 HOT —f} ground very small, it attains a sufficient warmth in a fortnight for the insertion of the plants, and will continue in heat for two or three months; the larger the fragments of the bark are, the longer time it requires to ferment, but in an equal proportion it attains a higher temperature and preserves it much longer; a middle sized bark is, there- fore, in general to be preferred; and added to the above consideration, it is to be remarked that, when made of large fragments, violent and sudden excesses often arise, even after the bed has been constructed two or three months: on the contrary, if very small, the fermentation soon passes off. When the crops are removed, and the heat declines, if well stirred, and a load or two of fresh bark mixed with it, the bed will acquire and continue in heat for an equal further lapse of time : this may be repeated throughout the year as often as the heat is found to decline. But it is necessary every autumn, entirely or nearly so, to re- construct the bed with fresh bark; for when the old is far advanced towards putrefaction, it will no longer generate heat. The leaves of the oak and sweet chestnut, and doubtless of many other trees, answer for hot-beds as well or even better than tanner’s bark, since they will continue to afford a moderate heat for nearly twelve months without any addition or stirring. They are to be collected as they fall in autumn, and carried to some situation, or be so hur- died in, that they may be preserved from scattering by the winds; the heap should be six or seven feet thick, trod ‘firmly down, and moderately watered ifdry. Ina few days, a very powerful heat is produced, and in five or six weeks will have become so regular, that it may be broken up and the beds constructed with its materials, water being again employed if dryness ap- pears, and they must be well trod down as before. There are many other sub- stances that generate heat during fer- mentation ; there is perhaps no vegeta- bie substance that does not; even a heap of dry sticks acquires a strong accession of temperature if moistened. - Mr. Burnet recommends the trial of the refuse matter thrown off in dressing flax, for constructing hot-beds: this re- fuse he says he has observed, when left undisturbed, continue at a temper- ature of 64° for many months, he seems to intimate as long as fourteen. This material is, however, to be had in very few districts. Grass and other green herbage, and even wetted straw mixed with coal-ashes, have been used on an emergency with success. Instead of forming hot-beds with open sides, as has been hitherto described, pits of brick- work and other materials, are very generally constructed for containing the fermenting mass. It may be laid down asa fundamental principle, that in applying heat, it should always be brought to the bottom of the body to be heated. Mr. Flanagan only allows the heat of fermenting dung to be employed, the steam being prevented entering the frame. One advantage arising from this he states to be, that fresh made dung may be employed, and consequently the loss sustained by any preparation is prevented. If, however, it be a fact that the steam of dung is rather bene- ficial than otherwise, fresh fermenting dung can be used without any detriment that I am aware of in other pits of which we have plans. Mr. F. describes his pit as follows:—<< It is four feet deep within, the lowest ten inches of solid brickwork sunk in the earth; the re- mainder is a flue three inches wide in the clear, carried entirely round the pit, the inner wall of which, forming the sides of the pit, is four inch work, well bedded in mortar, and pointed to pre- vent the steam penetrating; the outer wall of the flue is also four inch, but open work to admit the steam, and that of dung coatings into the flue, the top of which is rendered tight by a covering of tiles, &c. The frame rests on the external wall of the flue. The cavity of the pit, which is kept dry by means of drains, is nine feet two inches long, two feet eight inches wide, and four feet deep. It is filled with broken bricks to within eighteen inches of the top, then a foot of short cold dung, six inches of very rotten dung trod down so as to admit half an inch depth of coal-ashes, for preventing the intrusion of any worms that may be in the dung, completes the structure.”? The accompanying sketch and refer- ences will fully explain the plan of Mr. West. DD, chamber in which the dung is placed, three and a half feet deep, HOT 308 HOT —¢—__ (i aaa ANN utes 2 “= surrounded by nine inch brick work. One half of this is filled longitudinally with dung at the commencement, which, if kept close shut up, will last twelve or eighteen days, according to the quality of the dung. As the heat declines, the other side is filled, and the temperature is further sustained by additions to the top of both as the mass settles. When this united heat becomes insufficient, the side first filled being cleared, the old manure must be mixed with some fresh, and replaced, this being repeated alter- nately to either heap as often as neces- sary. A A,are the doors, two of which are on each side for the admission of the dung. They are two and a half feet square, fitted into grooves at the bottom, and fastened by means of a pin and staple at the top. B B, are small areas sunk in front, surrounded by a curb of wood ; GGG, are bars passing longi- tudinally as a guide and support in pack- ing the dung; C, represents a bar of cast-iron, two inches wide and three quarters of an inch thick, placed on the edge of which there is a row, a foot asunder across the chamber to support a layer of small wood branches and leaves, H, for the pupose of sustaining the soil, K,in the upper chamber; E E, represents the orifices of which there are a series all round the pit, communi- cating with the flue F F F, which sur- rounds the beds: the exterior wall of this flue is built with bricks laid flat, the inner one of bricks set on edge. The flue is two inches wide, and for the sake of strength, bricks are passed occa- sionally from side to side as ties. The top of the flue, and the internal part of the wall, which rises at the back and front to the level the earth is meant to stand, are covered with tiles, over the joints of which slips of slate bedded in mortar are laid to prevent the escape of the steam of the dung; I, represents one of two plugs, which stop holes left to regulate the heat and steam as may be necessary. The outer wall supports the lights. For the convenience of fixing the dung, itis best to fill the half of the chamber at the commencement,, before the branches, mould, &c., are put in. Hot-water is a much more manage- able source of heat for a hot-bed than fermenting vegetable matter, and for plans see the title Hot-Water. HOT-HOUSE. See Stove. HOTTENTOT CHERRY. maur ocenia. HOTTENTOT-FIG. Mesembry- anthemum edule. HOTTONIA palustris. aquatic. Division. Still water. HOT-WALL is a hollow wall, the interior air being so heated by flues or hot water, as to keep the bricks of which its faces are composed so warm as to promote the ripening of the wood and fruit trained against them. Mr. Loudon observes, that ‘ the flued wall or hot wall is generally built of brick, though where stone is abundant and more economical, the back or north side may be of that material. A flued wall may be termed a hollow wall, in which the vacuity is thrown into com- partments to faciliate the circulation of smoke and heat from the base or surface of the ground to within one or two feet of the coping. They are generally arranged with hooks inserted under the coping to admit of fastening some de- scription of protecting covers, and sometimes for temporary glass frames. A length of forty feet, and from ten to fifteen feet high, may be heated by one fire, the furnace of which, being placed one or two feet below the surface of the ground, the first course or flue will com- mence one foot above it, and be two feet. six or three feet high, and the second, third, and fourth courses nar- rower as they ascend, The thickness of that side of the flue next the south or preferable side, should, for the first course, be four inches, or brick and bed; and for the other courses it were desirable to have bricks cast in a smaller mould; say for the second course, three inches; for the third, two and three quarter inches; and for the fourth, two and a’half inchesin breadth. This will give an opportunity of leveling the Cassine Hardy HOT 309 HOT et wall, and the bricks being all of the same thickness though of different widths, the external appearance will be everywhere the same.”’—Enc. Gard. Hot walls are generally overheated opposite the first turn of the flue, and not heated enough at a distance from the fire. Mr. Hay has obviated this, by -having a hollow in the interior of the wall, serving as a general heat-chamber for diffusing and retaining warm air, and also smoke-flues for conveying heat throughout.—Hort. Trans.; Gard. Mag. The Rev. J. A. H. Grubbe, of Stan- ton St. Bernard, Wiltshire, has taken out a patent for a Transmitting-heat wall. The intention is to erect this partition in gardens, as a substitute for walls, against which fruit trees may be trained, and through which the warmth of the sun may, by reason of their thin- ness, be transmitted, which will greatly promote the ripening of the fruit, and improve its flavour. The material pro- posed to be employed for constructing these walls or partitions, is slate of the ordinary quality, in slabs, of the kind usually applied to the roofing of houses. Iron frames are proposed to be pre- pared for the reception of the slates, like the frames of windows, (with holes in both sides for inserting wires to serve as a trellis,) and the slates being cut to proper shapes and dimensions, may be secured in the rebates of the frame by putty, in the same wayasglass. These frames are to be from six to eight feet wide, and ofa suitable height, and may be joined together side by side, by re- bates or flanges, and held fast by screws, bolts, pins or staples: or in any way that may be found desirable to secure them firmly. Temporary blocks of stone may be placed along the ground to support the partitions, with cross pieces to receive standards or slight buttresses to keep the wall or partition perpendicular, and against the face of the wall, trellis work of wood or other. fit material may be placed for the sup- port of the branches of the trees. Walls or partitions for gardens formed in this way will transmit the heat of the sun through them, and hence fruit which may be growing against these walls having a northern aspect, will receive the benefit of the sun’s warmth trans- mitted through the slates. In the con- struction of these transmitting walls, to slate, but considers that plates of iron, applied in the same way, might answer the purpose nearly as well, provided that their surfaces were black- ened, which would cause them to ab- sorb more of the solar rays. Even frames of glass might answer the pur- pose applied in the same manner, and perhaps some other materials might do; but it is desirable that the frames should be light enough to admit of their being removed without difficulty, in order that these partitions may be shifted from place to place, (put under cover during winter,) and set up in different parts of the garden, as convenience may dictate.—Nicholson’s Journ.; Gard. Mag. See Wall. HOT-WATER as a source of heat for gardening purposes is preferable to any other. It is less expensive, more manageable, and less troublesome than any other. See Tank System and Stove. The following are some of the best modes of its application to various structures. Pine-Pit.—The best that has been constructed is thus described by Mr. G. Fleming :— In “a pine-pit recently erected at Trentham, the tank system of bottom- heating and that of hot water pipes for top-heat are combined ; and for keep- ing a sufficient and steady heat with a small consumption of fuel, nothing can be more satisfactory. The pit is seven- ty-seven feet Jong, and twelve feet wide inside, and is heated by what is called a saddle boiler. Under the bed are four tanks, into which the water is delivered from the boiler by a four inch pipe, and after pursuing its course, is again received by another pipe. The advantage of two deliveries is, that the water not having so far to go does not get so cold before it is returned to the boiler, and the heat is more regular in all parts of the house. The depth of water in the tanks is about three inches. The tanks are made of brickwork coat- ed with Roman cement. ‘They are arched over with brickwork also, which we find cheaper than covering them with slates, and by leaving interstices between the bricks of which the arch is composed the steam is allowed to escape, and penetrating the stratum of rubble above, to keep the tan in a pro- per state of moisture. The same boiler the patentee does not confine himself) also supplies a range of four inch pipe, HOT 310 HOT rs which goes round the pit. There are| pipes cannot both be worked at the cavities in the wall to permit the steam from below to pass to the top of the pit. The aperture to these can be closed at pleasure, thus insuring a per- fect command over the moisture of the atmosphere. There isa chamber which formerly contained a flue belonging to the house that occupied the place of the one I am now describing. This chamber has been left with the view of its being useful for filling with hot dung either for the purpose of assisting to maintain the heat of the house, or for destroying insects. The tanks and SSRUEISAS SRSA SEES RS SSS SSS SSS SSS SSS SS SSS same time, but they are fitted with stop-cocks, so that either can be work- ed at pleasure, and a few hours in the middle of the day, when the pipes are not wanted, is found amply sufficient to keep up the bottom-heat, as the mass of material when once heated retains its heat for a considerable time.?»— Gard. Chron. Melon and Cucumber Pit.— For this, Mr. Glendinning, the scientific nursery- man, of Turnham Green, has given the following plans and description. SSS SS ey ae Explanation of the Plan.—a, Bur- bidge and Healy’s boiler; 6 06, iron troughs; cc, pipes; d d, iron troughs as at b bin plan; ee, pipes as atecc in plan; ff, copper tubes fastened to the troughs to admit steam when required ; g, wire trellis; hhh, convenient places Fig. 88. for the growth of sea kale, rhubarb or asparagus, or keeping tubers of any kind during the winter. ‘¢ This pit is intended for melons in summer, and to preserve pelargoniums or other plants in winter. As the ob- ject in constructing it is more for the purpose of experiment than the perma- nent culture of melons, I have designed it so that pines may be substituted with- out any alteration whatever; indeed any kind of plant which such a structure is capable of receiving, and at the same time requiring protection, and in a warm temperature, may be very advan- tageously introduced, the hot-water ap- paratus being so contrived as to com- mand both bottom and surface-heat, HOT 311 HOT res either separately or conjointly. For the purpose of supplying soft water for the plants, I have placed a slate cistern at one end of the pit, in order to collect the rain water from the roof. The soil, if permitted to come in contact with the iron troughs, would, of necessity, be- come dried and totally unfit for the roots of any plant: with a view to ob- viate this, I have placed rough flint or other stones over the bottom of the bed and round the troughs to prevent im- Fig. LLL EEE Li YM iy Border in the Vinery. mediate contact, and at the same time to admit of a more uniform diffusion of heat over the bottom of the pit, so that the soil which rests upon it may be more regularly heated. The other ad- vantage and conveniences of this pit will be apparent from the above plan and section without further remark.??>— Gard. Chron. Hot-house.—A. hot-water system of heating this structure has been thus de- tailed by an anonymous writer. 89. LLLP Vine Border. E _ “Tt will be seen that there is a parti- ton across the house, dividing off about Fig. 90. = E Section of Hot-house. i ] rs = ri = 7 | —— = Az i HUN 314 HYA ee believed by a few men of science, that this apotheme is the immediate fertil- izing component of organic manures, being soluble under some circum- stances, and entering at once into the roots of plants, dissolved in the mois- ture of the soil. But every relative research of more modern chemistry is against this conclusion, and it is now tolerably certain, that a chief nutritive portion of vegetable manures are their carbon converted into carbonic acid, absorbed either in solution with the earth’s moisture, or in gaseous form by the roots. Apotheme is only one of the products formed during the progress of putrefaction, and is in its turn a source of carbonic acid. Carbonic acid has been long since shown to be bene- ficial if applied to a plant’s roots. It abounds in the sap of all vegetables, though this be drawn from their very lowest parts, whereas apotheme is in- jurious to them if they are grown ina solution of it, and minutest analyzers have failed to detect it even within the extreme vessels of roots.—— Prin. of Gard. © HUNGARIAN LOTUS. thermalis. HUNNEMANNIA fumariefolia. Half hardy herbaceous. Division. Com- mon soil. HURDLES of iron are the most eli- gible modes of fencing, whether for permanency or temporary purposes. They are invisible at a short distance, elegant and durable. HUTCHINSIA. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous alpines. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. HYACINTHUS. MHyacinth. Five species and as many varieties. Hardy bulbs. Offsets. Sandyloam. The spe- cies most commonly known is H. orien- falis, the varieties of which are so conspicuous in our borders and water vases. Characteristics of Excellence.—*‘‘A well grown hyacinth should be of a compact pyramidal form, with a strong, tall, and upright stem, supporting nu- merous large bells, each attached by a strong foot-stalk in a horizontal position to the stem. ‘¢ The bells should be perfectly dou- ble, composed of broad, thick, waxy petals, with the centre of the flower raised, rendering the form convex. Nymphea ‘¢ The bells should occupy about one half the length of the stem, with the uppermost bell erect. << The flowers, whether whole-colour- ed orstriped, should be clearand bright ; those having a contrast of colour in the centre are most esteemed.”?—Gard. Chron. Offsets.—<* The hyacinth is increased by offsets; but to multiply the number of offsets, cuts are made in the under part of the bulb, which, by proper management and a little care, will be found filled with offsets next year.”°— Gard. Chron. Sotl.—Mr. Mooy, of Haarlem, from whose communication to the Garden- er’s Chronicle this treatise on the cul- ture of the hyacinth is principally taken, says —‘* They require a fresh, well drained sandy soil, free from lumps or stones, and not mixed with any vege- table matter.”°—Gard. Chron. Mr. Horne, an equally good authori- ty, adds, that ‘* the hyacinth must never be planted again in the same soil ;. but the ground should be allowed to rest for at least two or three years, or should be cultivated with greens during that time; it should also be well mixed again, before planting, with some old cow-dung, especially if the soil is light or sandy, as hyacinths are very fond of that manure.’?—Gard. Chron. Moisture.—This being the most de- structive agent against which the ama- teur has to guard, great care should be taken to protect hyacinths from it, by selecting the most elevated spot in his garden. If this is surrounded by a shallow trench, a little distance off, it will be useful, and the bed should also be raised seven or eight inches above the ground level. Planting and Culture.—‘‘ The roots are planted in October, the soil being prepared by having pure cow-dung mixed with it one year previously to the time of planting. We use a bar- rowful of dung per ten yards square. The ground being measured into beds, the soil is taken out of the first to the depth of five inches, and the bulbs are planted firmly on it, so that the under part is well surrounded with the mould, after which they are covered over with the earth taken out of the next bed to the same depth, which is then ready to be planted, and this is pursued until the whole of the beds are completed. HYA 315 HY A. —~— ‘¢ As soon as severe weather com- mences, all the beds are covered over about eight inches deep with reeds, so as to prevent the frost penetrating them. As soon as the frost is gone, the reeds are taken off, and the beds are coated with a mixture of cow-dung and water, to prevent the light sandy soil being blown away by the wind. ‘¢ The flowers having opened, and being in perfection, are all cut off, to give greater strength to the bulbs. Taking up and Storing.—‘‘In July, the bulbs are taken up, and the leaves being pulled off, they are laid down regularly, each bulb on the side, so as to prevent the roots growing again; after, this they are covered over with dry soil, one inch above the bulbs, and remain in this state for about a fort- night, to separate the roots and loose skins easily from the bulbs, Great care must be taken during this time that no injury be done to the bulbs by the sun; attention should therefore be paid to keep them well covered over. When taken from this situation, the bulbs are exposed for a few hours to the sun, and kept continually moving with a large brush, to prevent their being scorched ; by which means they get that glossy appearance always ob- served in imported bulbs.’? — Gard. Chron. ‘¢ After this management the bulbs require a few weeks’ drying in the warehouse; for which purpose they are laid out on platforms, raised a foot and a half above each other, which enables us to look them over occasion- ally, though this is done principally that they may have a good circulation of air between them. The windows are opened every day on both sides of the warehouse—for the more air and wind we are able to give, the better— that they may be dried and be ready to be packed.’?—Gard. Chron. Frost. — ** Frost,’? says Mr. Horne, ‘¢ ig detrimental only when it comes in contact with the bulbs; therefore they should be protected in proportion to its intensity. Those who have bulbs of great value may lay thin planks of wood over the surface when the frost is very intense; but care must be taken not to cover them too deep, especially with the leaves of trees, because these co- verings retain the vapour which arises from the soil, and hinder the air from entering and purifying it.2?— Gard. Chron. Growing in Pots.—The latest and best -directions we have on this point are the following :—‘“‘Give them enough space to grow in, without starving their roots. The easiest way to do this is to have pots made of a deeper shape than those in common use. «By this simple arrangement the roots have sufficient nourishment, while the pots take up no more space on the stand than at present. An inch or two of very rotten cow-dung may be put at the bottom of the pots to promote the richness of colours and perfume of the flowers. Three or four bulbs may be planted in the same pot; but the latter should be sufficiently large, and of the requisite depth; twice the diameter of the top is a good proportion. Fig 92. «¢ Lastly, after the bloom is over, put those which are fine varieties, and worth preserving, in some warm and light place; the top shelf of a hot-house, green-house, or vinery, close to the glass, is the most preferable. There they will require no more care nor watering; and after the leaves wither, they may be sorted, and lie by until the planting season returns. <¢ Tf these points are attended to hya- cinths will suffer but little from forcing, and will flower again the next year.”?— ‘Gard. Chron. Another equally good authority says —‘<‘ Grow three bulbs in each pot—up- right pots, at least six inches clear in- side. After planting, put them in a frame properly drained at the bottom, and slightly protected at the sides, and plunge them in rotten tan, covering the tan over them at least four inches, In very hard weather, a mat to be thrown over them, otherwise no covering at H YA 316 H WB —_#—-- all; in this state they remain until the flower-stem heaves up the tan. Every pot, as this occurs, to be taken to the green-house, and put at the back of the stage, and shaded by a mat until the stem and Jeaves become greenish, when gradually brought to more light and air. In this state. examine each spike of flowers, and cut out any decaying blos- som. ‘¢ Water freely, and give as much air as possible during the day; never omit to turn the pot daily, so as to insure that regular pyramidal shape which is so essential to the beauty and symmetry of the spikes of flowers when in blos- som.”’—Gard. Chron. In Water-Glasses.—In the last week of August, or the first week of Septem- ber, hyacinths, after being kept for a few days in slightly damped sand, should be placed in their water-glasses. At first the water should only just touch the base of the bulbs, and the glasses should be kept in a dark closet until the roots have attained the length of an inch. Two drops of spirit of hartshorn may be added to the water in each glass, when the bulbs are first put in, and whenever the water is changed. Dark- coloured glass is always to be preferred, as the absence of light is natural to all roots. By keeping the glasses in a dark closet until the roots are full an inch long, the hyacinths will not get top- heavy, but the roots being in advance of the leaves, will preserve the plant balanced erect. The bloom will also be finer, as the roots will be in a state to nourish the leaves before these are prematurely advanced. Dr. Lindley recommends a piece of charcoal to be put into each glass, to feed the plant, and prevent putridity in the water.— Gard. Almanac. Forcing.—Mr. Shearer directs that ‘¢In the beginning of October a few bulbs be placed in pots and glasses; the single sorts are best for early forcing, which, if required, could be flowered at Christmas; others are planted at the end of October, and another lot about the middle of November. The pots used are upright thirty-twos, about seven inches deep and four inches wide; the soil half road sand and half leaf mould, with good drainage, and the bulb is placed on coal ashes, in any open part of the garden, and covered to the depth of eight inches with old tan or leaf mould, as a rustiness or canker is produced on the young leaves and flowers if they come in contact with coal-ashes. In eight or ten weeks they will generally be found in a fit state to be removed to the green-house or cold pit; from thence the most forward are taken to a house in which the tempera- ture is kept from 60° to 65°, and placed about eighteen inches from the glass. If any show indication of expanding their flowers before the stem is of saffi- cient length above the bulb, a piece of brown paper of the desired length of the stem, is wrapped around the pot, and then placed in a cucumber frame, with the temperature from 70° to 75°. In the latter end of December, or early in January, they rise six or eight inches in about ten days; if laterin the season, they advance quicker. When fully expanded, the plants are taken to a house where the temperature is 60°, and finally to the green-house. The same practice is adopted when hya- cinths are grown in glasses, first placing them in a dark room to encourage the protrusion of roots, with a change of water once a week, until they are re- moved into the frame, or forcing-house, when a fresh supply must be given every day.”—Gard. Chron. ‘*Hyacinths,”’ says Dr. Lindley, “after having been forced, are three years be- fore they recover themselves. After they have done flowering both in pots and glasses, they should be planted out in the open ground in a bed properly prepared, taking care not to injure the leaves but removing the flower stalk. When the leaves have died away, the roots may be taken up and laid by in some dry place till November, when they should be again planted in a bed in the open ground; this should be re- peated the following year; and the year after that, they may be again forced, and will produce as good flowers as they did the first year they were im- ported.?’—Gard. Chron. Diseases.—The hyacinth bulbs are very liable to ulceration, occasioned usually by being treated with too much water. HYBRIDIZING, or CROSS-BREED- ING, though not quite identical, have with the gardener similar objects, viz., either improving the beauty of his flowers, or the flavour and prolificacy of his fruits and culinary products. HYB 317 HYB Se Hybridizing, strictly speaking, is ob- taining a progeny between two different species; and cross-breeding is obtain- ing a progeny between varieties of the same species. ‘The progeny of hybrids cannot produce seed ; but cross-breeds are fertile. My own observations, and those of others, justify the following statements, as,affording some guide to the raiser of varieties :— 1. The seed-vessel is not altered in appearance by impregnation from an- other plant; therefore, no hasty con- clusion of failure is justified by that want of change. 2. The colour of the future seed, not of that first hybridized, seems to be most influenced by the male plant, if its seeds and flowers are darker than those of the female. Mr. Knight found, that when the pollen of a coloured- blossomed pea was introduced into a white one, the whole of the future seeds were coloured. But when the pollen of a white blossom was introduced to the stigma of a coloured blossom, the whole of the future seeds were not white. Capt. Thurtell, from his experiments on the pelargonium, also informs me, that he has always found the colour and spot of the petals to be more influenced by the male than by the female parent. In- deed, all experience proves that the progeny usually, though not invariably, most resembles in colour the male parent., 3. Large stature and robustness are transmitted to the offspring by either parent. It does not absolutely matter for obtaining this characteristic, whether it be the male or female which is large; but Mr. Knight generally found the most robust female parent produced the finest offspring. 4, Capt. Thurtell, from lengthened observation and experiment, has ascer- tained that the form of the petals follows most closely that of the female parent. 5. Mr. Knight says that the largest seed from the finest fruit that has ripened earliest and most perfectly, should always be selected. In stone-fruit if two kernels are in one stone, these give birth to inferior plants. 6. The most successful mode of ob- taining good and very distinct varieties, is to employ the pollen from a male in a flower grown on another plant than that bearing the female parent. To avoid. previous and undesired impregnation, the anthers in the female parent, if they are produced in the same flower with the pistils, must be removed by a sharp- pointed pair of scissors, and the flower inclosed in a gauze bag, to exclude in- sects, until the desired pollen is ripe. Another effectual mode of avoiding un- desired impregnation, is bringing the female parent into flower a little earlier than its congeners, and removing the anthers as above described : the stigma will remain a long time vigorous if un- impregnated. 7. Although the fertility of all the seed in one seed vessel may be secured by applying pollen only to one style, even where there are several, yet the quantity of pollen is by no means a matter of indifference. Koelreuter found, that from fifty to sixty globules of pollen were required to complete the impregnation of one flower of Hybiscus Syriacus; but in Mirabilis jalapa, and M. longiflora, two or three globules were enough ; and in the case of pelar- goniums, Capt. Thurtell says two or three globules are certainly sufficient. 8. M. Haquin, a distinguished horti- culturist at Liege, has impregnated flowers of the Azalea with pollen kept six weeks; and Camellias with pollen kept sixty-five days. He gathers the stamens just previously to the anthers opening, wraps them in writing-paper, places them in a warm room for a day, collects the pollen they emit, and pre- serves it in sheet lead in a cool dry place. M. Godefroy suggests, that two concave glasses, like those employed for vaccine virus, would be better... The globules of the pollen must not be crushed. M. Haquin thinks the pollen of one year will be effective if preserved until the year following. Mr. Jackson, of Cross Lanes Nursery, near Bedale, says, he has found the polien of the Rhododendron Smithii tigrinum retain its fertilizing power even for twelve months. 9. It is easy to discern whether im- pregnation has been effected, as in such case the stigmas soon wither. The stig- mas which have not received the pollen remain for a long time green and vigor- ous. ‘By the aid of the Stanhope lens,?? observes Capt. Thurtell, in a let- ter now before me, ‘“‘I fancy I can dis= cover the seed of the pelargonium being HYD 318 HYD —_—_-—— closed over in the space of four hours after impregnation.” 10. When double flowers are desired, if a double flower should chance to have a fertile anther or two, these should be employed for fertilization, as their off- spring are almost sure to be very double. 11. Many analyses of the pollen of various plants have been made by che- mists, without throwing any light upon hybridizing. M. Grotthus found the components of twenty-six grains of the pollen of the tulip were— Vegetable albumen 20.25 Malates of lime and magnesia 3.50 Malic acid 1.00 Malate of ammonia, colouring 1.25 matter, nitrate of potash ; 12. Superfcetation has been doubted ; but as it occurs in the dog, we see no reason for disbelieving its possibility in plants. Capt. Thurtell thinks it may be done by the bee introducing mingled pollens at the same instant. Then why not if a similar mixture is inserted by the camel’s-hair pencil of the culti- vator ? 13. Plants nearly related, that is, closely similar in the structure of their various parts, are those only which will immediately impregnate each other; but it is impossible, at present, to say what families of plants may or may not be brought into fertile union through intermediate crosses. A very short time ago, the azalea and rhododendron were thought incapable of such union ; but this opinion is now exploded, for rhododendron ponticum has been fertil- ized with the pollen of azalea sinensis, and the progeny between that evergreen and this deciduous shrub, is the pre- viously unknown phenomenon, a yellow rhododendron. Though such unions may be effected, I entirely agree with Mr. Knight in anticipating that the pro- geny will be mules, incapable of pro- ducing offspring. HYDRANGEA. Six species. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Ripe Cuttings. Com- mon soil. The species most common in our gardens is H. hortensis. To ob- tain of this very large flowers on a very small stem, strike cuttings; do not let them branch: grow them in rich soil, and bloom them the following season. ‘¢ To get large bushes of hydrangeas in the open air, plant them in good rich soil; form a basin of clay all round them, six inches deep, and in dry weather fill it with water every evening, after they have got fairly into leaf. Towards au- tumn withhold watering altogether. Get their wood ripe. For winter, stuff straw between their branches, wrap them well in it, and mat them up.?»—Gard. Chron. Hydrangeas are best preserved through the winter out of doors, by taking off their leaves in autumn, and putting over each one of the Shelters made of straw, as described under that title. HYDRASTIS canadensis. tuber. Tubers. moist place. HYDRAULIC RAM. Thisis a use- ful machine, the principle of which is but partially understood and valued. To bring the hydraulic ram into opera- tion, it is necessary that there should be a head or body of water, as a pond, sup- plied by a running stream, from which a fall can be obtained. The ram is an hydraulic machine composed of a body at the end of which is a valve called a pulse-valve, which is closed by the mo- mentum of a running stream of water. On the top of the body is an air-vessel, in the neck of which is another valve which admits the water into the air- vessel upon the closing of the pulse- valve. The water meeting with an ob- struction in the closing of the pulse- valve, immediately makes its way through the valve into the air-vessel. The air in the air-vessel becoming compressed, the valve leading into it closes, and thus liberates the pulse- valve. The same action takes place again with the pulse-valve, and also with the valve that leads to the air-ves- sel this continuous action takes place; and at each time a portion of water is forced into the air-vessel. When the air in the vessel is compressed so as to overcome the resistance in the pipe leading to the cistern, which it is in- tended to supply, the water flows over, and continues to do so, as long as the ram remains in action. There is also a small valve in the neck of the air-vessel, introduced by Mongolfier’s son, to supply the vessel with fresh air. Persons acquainted with hydraulics are aware that a column of water is equal to its base ; that is to say, a pipe resting on a base four inches square is equal to sixteen times, though it rested on an inch square. This is the principle of the ram, as the falling Hardy Loam and peat, ina H’¥ ® 319 HYG —_e—. column, forcing up the pulse-valve,|converted from a state of invisible va- shuts it. Practice shows that a ten-feet fall will raise a column of water one hundred and fifty feet high, at the rate of five quarts per minute, or one part raised to eleven wasted, where the ram is only supplied by a two-inch pipe. I may further add, that theory teaches that a ten-feet fall will raise water three hundred feet high—of course, in a very small quantity. Mr. H. P. M’Birkin- brine, of Philadelphia, has been very successful in the construction of this valuable power. HYDROCHARIS morsusrane, Hardy aquatic. Seed andrunners. Still water. HYDROLEA. Two species. One stove evergreen shrub, and the other stove herbaceous. Cuttings. Loam and peat. HYDROPELTIS purpurea. hardy aquatic. Offsets. Still water. HYGROMETER is an instrument deserving of employment in the stove, green-house, and conservatory nearly as much as the thermometer; for the correct degree of dampness of the air is of very great importance in the cultiva- tion of plants, and scarcely less than that of the temperature in which they vegetate. The perspiration from the leaves of plants increases with the air’s dryness, and decreases with its moistness. If it be excessive, not only are their juices too much reduced, but the very texture 6f the leaves is destroyed. If, on the other hand, the perspiration is prevent- ed, the juices are too watery, and the secretions and assimilations are devoid of consistency, rendering the plants too succulent and weak. << Tt is impossible for any one to know what degree of moisture he really main- tains in a forcing-house without an in- strument by which to measure it: that instrument is the hygrometer, which might as well be called the ‘ water- gauge,’ which is what the first word really means. Of the many contriv- ances to effect this end, the best for all practical purposes, is Daniell’s Hygro- meter, of which the annexed cut (Fig. 93) exhibits the general appearance. It measures the moisture in the air quickly and precisely, and is not sub- ject to get out of order. “‘Tf moisture is brought into contact with a substance sufficiently cold, a part of the moisture is condensed, and is so Half pour into water. ‘¢ Thus, in a cold day, the glass roof of a green-house may be seen streaming with water, which runs down and forms ‘drip ;? and in this often unsuspected manner air is rendered dry, notwith- standing the operations of syringing, steaming, &c. Daniell’s Hygrometer is constructed with reference to this cir- cumstance. The figure represents two hollow glass balls containing ether, and communicating by the glass tube which rests on the support. The ball which forms the termination of the longer leg is of black glass, in order that the formation of dew on its surface may be the more perceptible. It includes the bulb of a delicate thermometer dipping in the ether, its scale being inclosed in the tube above the ball ; and whatever change takes place in the temperature of the ether is indicated by this thermo- meter. The other ball is covered with muslin. In making an observation it is first necessary to note down the temper- ature of the air; next turn the instru- ment, so that when the muslin-covered ball is held in the hand, the ether may escape into the blackened ball ;,and it should also be held till the included thermometer rises a few degrees above the temperature of the air, when it should be replaced on the support. Then drop, or gently pour, a little ether on the muslin. The evaporation of this extremely volatile substance produces cold; and attention must be instantly directed to the black glass ball and in- cluded thermometer. The latter will be seen falling rapidly ; and at length a ring of dew will appear at the line which runs across the black ball — quickly, if the air is very moist, slowly, ifthe airis dry. If the air is very dry, no moisture will be thus deposited till the thermometer falls to, perhaps, 10°, 20°, or 30° below the temperature of the air. But at whatever temperature the dew forms, that temperature should be noted as the dew-point; and the dif- ference between it and the temperature of the air, at the time, is the degree of dryness according to the indications of this hygrometer. Thus, ina moderately dry day, let it be supposed that the temperature of the air is 65° in the shade, and that the muslin requires to be kept moist, before dew is formed, till the blackened ball containing the HYG 320 Hehe — ether has its temperature reduced to 50°, as indicated by the included ther- mometer, there are then said to be 15° of dryness. ‘* Again, supposing the temperature is 85°, and the dew-point found, as be- fore, to be 70°, the degree of dryness is still expressed by 15°; but the quan- tity of moisture diffused in the air is, notwithstanding, somewhat greater in the latter case than in the former. *¢ Tf 1000° represent complete satu- ration, the quantity of moisture, when the temperature is 65° and the dew- point 50°, will be 609°; but, when the temperature is 85° and the dew-point 70°, the moisture will be represented by 623; these numbers being ascer- tained by tables prepared for the pur- pose. The difference, however, in such Fig. 93. a case is so small it is not worth taking into account in a horticultural point of view. But as these numbers can only be ascertained by calculation it is more convenient to reckon by the degree of dryness, bearing in mind that the dry- ness of the air is indicated by the differ- ence between the temperature of the air and of the dew-point. Thus, if the ring of dew is formed as soon as ether is applied, and only 1° difference is observable, the air is nearly saturated ; if the difference is 5° to 10°, the dry- ness is very moderate; while 15° to 20° of difference indicate excessive dryness, and beyond this the air is parching.”?— Gard. Chron. ‘¢ The instrument,?? says Mr. Ross, ‘¢ should be held so as to obtain a por- tion of bright reflection where the dew is expected to appear; because the dew is most easily seen where the line di- vides the bright and black reflections on the bulb; and inasmuch as the change may not be noticed the very instant that it occurs, it is well to make a second observation of the temperature at which the dew clears off, and then take the mean of two. If they are both taken equally late, the errors will balance each other; because in one case the mercury is falling, and in the other rising.??—Gard. Chron. Mr. J. W. Harris, writing on the same subject, says :— " 15° to 30°. Of course, if the instru-. ment were found to require it, it would HYG be lengthened in the stem, so as to range to any degree required; but I do not anticipate that a greater range would be required for the coldest pit or green-house. As I have found it very useful in my own stove, [ hope it may be of service to your readers; and as it is self-acting, so I trust it will be found on trial, ‘simple, economical, and ef- fectual.?°?—Gard. Chron. HYGROPHILA ringens. Stove evergreen trailer. Cuttings. Rich light soil. HYLESINUS PINIPERDA. A spe- cies of beetle which preys upon the pith of young shoots of sickly or recently felled Scotch and spruce firs. It is not very injurious in this country. HYLOTONIA rose. A saw-fly which injures rose-trees seriously by punctur- ing in rows their young shoots, and de- positing in the holes its eggs. The best remedy is spreading a cloth be- neath the trees in the evening, and killing the insects shaken down upon it.—Gard. Chron. HYMEN/ZEA. Locust-tree. species. Stove evergreen trees. tings. Loam and peat. -HYMENANTHERA dentata. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and loam. HYMENOPHYLLUM. Two spe- cies. Hardy ferns. Seed and division. Loam and peat.~ HYOSCYAMUS. MHenbane. Four species. Two half-hardy evergreen shrubs; one’ hardy annual; and the fourth biennial. Cuttings or seed. Common soil. HYPECOUM. Three species. Har- dy annuals. Seed. Common soil. — HYPERICUM. Seventy-three spe- cies. Hardy, half-hardy, and green- house. Mr. Paxton says the two latter thrive in loam and peat, propagated by young cuttings; the hardy’shrubs and Three Cut- herbaceous grow from seed or division in any soil; and the annuals may be sown in spring in the open ground. HYPHENE coriacea. Stove-palm. Seed. Sandy loam. HYPOCALYPTUS abcordatus. Green-house evergreen shrub. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. HYPOESTES. Five species. Stove _ plants of various character; chiefly evergreen shrubs. herbaceous species, propagate by cut- tings in a light soil. 21 321 ees These, and the ICE HYSSOP. Hyssopus officinalis. Varieties.—There are three varieties, the white, red, and blue; the last of which is most commonly cultivated. Soil and Situation.—A dry soil is the one most appropriate for it. If on a rich or wet one, it is generally destroy- ed by the frost, as well as rendered less aromatic. Time and Mode of Propagation.—It is propagated by seed, and slips of the branches, and young shoots, as well as by offsets. The seed may be sown from the close of February until the end of May. Rooted offsets may be planted in March, April, August and September ; cuttings of the branches in April and May; and slips of young shoots in June or July. The seed may be inserted in drills, six inches apart, not deeper than halfan inch. It is the usual practice, when the seedlings have attained the growth of six weeks, to prick them out twelve inches apart; but it is by much the best practice to raise them where they are to remain. The slips and offsets are best planted at first in a shady or north border: they are generally firmly rooted in two months. In September or October they are all fit for removal to their final sta- tions. After every removal they must be watered plentifully and regularly until established. The only subsequent cultivation requisite is the keeping them free of weeds by frequent hoeings. In spring and autumn likewise all decayed branches and flower-stalks must be removed; those used as edgings trimmed close, and the earth gently stirred around them. IBERIS. Candy-Tuft. Twenty- three species. A few hardy evergreen shrubs; but chiefly hardy annuals, bien- nials, and perennials. Seed. Common light loam. ICE-HOUSE. Any vacant out-house which can be thoroughly drained will be an efficient ice-house. Moisture is a much more rapid solvent of ice than mere heat. If in an out-house, with drains leading from its floor, a layer of faggots three feet deep be placed, and round the sides of the house a lining of stubble or straw nearly as thick, and then the ice be rammed in hard, and covered over with a similar coat of stubble, the ice may be preserved there for twelve months. «¢ The accompanying drawing and de- ICE 322 ICE —— scription of an approved ice-house and dairy united, has been contributed by John C. Boyd, Esq., of Danville, Pa. Mr. B. says, ‘‘ For various purposes it is far superior to the best constructed spring-house; permitting to the largest extent all the luxuries of sweet cream Fig. Db. <¢ A represents the ice-house, proper. B dairy-room. C the steps thereto. D window in dairy-room. entrance into the ice-house. <¢ The whole length, 24 feet: width 15 feet; pit sunk, 5 feet in ground; stone wall carried 2: feet above ground ; making depth of stone work 7} feet. On stone work, a frame of 8 feet to the square is placed. Weather-boarded on the outside in usual manner. Over milk house, on top of wall is placed, joist 18 inches from centre to centre, on which a tight floor is laid, which forms a convenient room for keeping various things connected with the dairy. ‘¢The partition between the ice- house and milk-house is formed by setting up studding from the sill in the bottom of the ice-house to the square “under the roof, and weather-boarded with inch boards halved together, well nailed, so as to prevent any charcoal dust, or dust of the bark from dropping down into the milk trough. ‘<¢ The inside frame is made 12 inches less all round than the inside of main building. That is to say, a space of -12 inches, (and it would be better if it and milk, the preservation of fresh meat, pies, fruit, &c., for a length of * time. Mine has been in use two years, and during that period, we have not had any milk to sour, which cannot be said by those dependent on spring- houses.”? 94, were 15,) must be left between the two frames—to be filled in with charcoal or tanner’s bark, well dried, and well rammed when filled. The inside frame may be very simply and cheaply made, by taking four pieces of scantling, say 4 by 6, and halving them together—and planking, or dou- ble boarding up or down on the inside —three of those frames—one on the floor—one midway, and the other at top, are sufficient. ‘¢ The floor, which is the most par- ticular part, should be made by placing in the bottom good oak sills, with a descent from the back part of an apart- ment to milk-house of 15 inches. The ‘sills well bedded in clay, tan bark or charcoal. Mine is bedded in common yellow clay, well pounded in. ‘¢ The floor should be well laid, either of plank, jointed, or boards double, and small grooves run along ‘to carry ice water down to the milk trough. This floor should be the size of the ice room before inside frame is erected. On that part of the floor which passes under the partition between the ice and milk- houses, small strips of a quarter of an ICE 323 IMP 4 ——_@-—-— -inch thick should be laid, and a board fitted down tight to keep the filling-in from stopping up the water as it leaves the ice. On top of square, joists with floor on, is laid and covered about 2 feet thick with tan-bark. A ventilator should be made through the upper floor and roof about 2 feet square. ‘¢ The closet or recess formed on each side of the small doors, leading into the ice, may have hooks to hang meats, or shelves, on which anything may be set. This closet, or cold room, is 3 feet 3 inches, by 3 feet 6 inches— 5 feet high, two doors in centre, each 18 inches wide, made of a single board, and made to fit closely. The ice may be put in on either side just under the upper joists; an opening 18 inches by 2 feet is sufficiently large, with two doors or shutters—and the space between, when the ice is in, should be well stuffed with straw. No straw to be used in filling ice-house— except on top, when a good supply will be of service. ‘¢ The milk-house should be well white-washed. The room above milk- house should be lined on inside of shedding, and the space between filled with tan-bark or charcoal. The cover- ing may be a shed-roof, or any other form best suited to the convenience of the location. The door of my ice-house is within a few steps of my back kitch- endoor. An arbour of grape vines adds much to the comfort and coolness of the establishment. ‘¢ In filling the ice-house, much pains should be taken to pack the ice closely. The ice is taken out by entering from the milk-house through the small doors, and any child who can use a hatchet can procure ice for the use of the house. ‘< The ice-water, if the troughs are made tight, (and they ought to be per- fectly so,) will keep them full, or nearly so, and during south winds may over- flow a little. The milk-room is too cold to do the work in, therefore there is no water but the ice water to get clear of, which will disappear without giving any trouble.”—Rural Register. For an interesting article on this sub- ject, See Downing’s “ Horticulturist.’ ICE-PLANT. Mesembryanthemum crystailinum. _ ICHNOCARPUS frutescens. Stove evergreentwiner. Cuttings. Peat and loam. ILEX. Holly. Fifteen . species. Chiefly hardy evergreen trees; but J. paraguensis and J. salicifolia require the shelter of a stove; and J. angustifo- lia, 1. chinensis, and I. perado, that of a green-house. Cuttings,budding, grafting, and seed. Deeplightloam. See Holly. ILLICIUM. Three species. Half- hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings and layers. Light loam. IMPATIENS. Balsam. cies. Hardy, half-hardy, and stove an- nuals. J. natans is a stove aquatic; seed, rich loam, in water. JI. scapiflora is a stove bulb; offsets; light rich loam. Half-hardy annuals sow in a hotbed, and hardy in borders. (Pazton’s Bot. Dic.) See Balsam. IMPREGNATION. ‘* No seed ever attains the power of germinating, un- less the pollen from the stamens in the same,-or some nearly allied flower, has reached and impregnated its pistils. ‘¢ In favourable seasons, when genial warmth and gentle winds prevail, im- pregnation is readily effected by the plant’s own provision. The pollen is never shed from the anther of the sta- men, until the stigma of the pistil is fully Nine spe- developed, and this soon withers after the contact. ‘¢ Their all-provident Creator has in- variably arranged efficient assistance. The agents usually called in are insects; these, in their search after honey and wax, visit the inmost recesses of flowers, and bear from the anthers to the stigma, and from flower to flower, the fecun- dating dust. Here, too, I may remark upon another instance of that Provi- dence which makes all things fitting and appropriate; for those who have made the bee their study, relate that though this insect does not confine it- self to one species of flower, yet it re- stricts its visits during each ramble to that kind. which it first visits. How this facilitates impregnation is obvious, when it is remembered that no flower can be fecundated but with pollen from a kindred species. <6 This efficient agency of insects sug- gested, that in hothouses, from whence they are almost totally excluded, other artificial means might be adopted with success to render flowers fertile that had hitherto failed in producing seed. Thus the gardener always finds the ad- vantage of using the camel hair pencil to apply pollen to the stigmas of his INA 324 ING —@—- forced melons, cucumbers, cherries, and peaches.’?’—Principles of Garden- ing. See Hybridizing. INARCHING, or Grafting by ap- proach, differs from grafting only in having the scion still attached to its parent stem whilst the process of union with the stock is proceeding. It is the most certain mode of multiplying an individual that roots or grafts with dif- ficulty, but is attended with the incon- venience that both the stock and the parent of the scion must be neighbours. The most ingenious application of in- arching is one suggested by Mr. Knight. If a fruit-bearing branch becomes de- nuded of its leaves above the fruit it has produced, this either falls or remains stunted and deficient in flavour, owing to being thus deprived of a supply of the elaborated sap or proper juice. In such case a branch having leaves of the same or of a neighbouring tree, was in- arched to the denuded portion of the branch the fruit of which he was anxious to taste. It produced that season only two peaches, and from the branch bear- ing which all the leaves had fallen ; but after the inarching the fruit proceeded to maturity —Principles of Gardening. To propagate any tree or shrub by this method of grafting, if of the hardy kind, and growing in the open ground, a proper quantity of young plants for stocks must be set round it, and when grown of a proper height, the work of inarching performed ; or if the branches of the tree you design to graft from is too high for the stock, stocks must be planted in pots, and a slight stage erected around the tree of due height to reach the branches, and the pots containing the stock placed upon the stage. As to the method ne performing the work, it is sometimes performed with the head of the stock cut off, and some- times with the head left on till the graft is united with the stock, though by pre- viously beheading it the work is much easier performed, and having no top, its whole effort will be directed to the nourishment of the graft. Having the stocks properly placed, make the most convenient branches approach the stock, and mark in the body of the branches the parts where they will most easily join to the stock, and in those parts of each branch, pare away the bark and part of the wood two or three inches in length, and in the same manner pare the stock in the proper place for the junction of the graft, then make a slit upward in the branch so as to form a sort of tongue, and make a slit down- ward in the stock to admit it; let the parts be then joined, slipping the tongue of the graft into the slit of the stock, making the whole join in an exact man- ner, and tie them closely together with bass, and afterwards cover the whole with a due quantity of clay, or wax. After this let a stout stake be fixed for the support of each graft, and so fast- ened as to prevent its being disjoined from the stock by the wind. The operation being performed in spring, let the grafts remain in that position about four months, when they will be united, and they may then be separated from the mother-tree; in doing this be careful to perform it with a steady hand, so as not to loosen or break out the graft, sloping it off down- wards close to the stock; and if the head of the stock was not cut down at the time of grafting, it must now be done close to the graft, and all the old clay and bandage cleared away and re- placed with new, to remain a few weeks longer. Observe, however, that if the grafts are not firmly united with the stock, let them remain another year till autumn, before you separate the grafts from the parent tree.— Abercrombie. ‘¢ Instead of approach-grafting in the usual manner, it is sometimes conve- nient to detach shoots of the kinds to be propagated from the plants on which they grew, and inarch them upon the single plant, leaving a piece at the bot- tom of each shoot sufficiently long to thrust into a phial, which must be kept constantly supplied with water.’’-— Gard. Mag. INDIAN BAY. Laurus indica. INDIAN BLUE. Nymphea cyanea. INDIAN CRESS. Tropeolum. See Nasturtium. INDIAN FIG. Opuntia. INDIAN LOTUS. Nymphea lotus. INDIAN SHOT. Canna indica. INDIGOFERA. Indigo. Forty-four species. Chiefly green-house and stove shrubs. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. INGA. Twenty-eight species. Stove evergreen trees and shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam. i INO 325 IRR Ba INOCULATION. See Budding. INOCULATING GRASS. See Turf. IPOM AA. Sixty-four species. Chiefly green-house and stove twiners. I. caudicans; I. lacunosa; I. pandu- rata; I. sagittifolia ; I. sibrica ; I. sin- uata; and I. trichocarpa, are hardy. Cuttings. Rich loam and peat. An- nuals and biennials by seed in a gentle hotbed, as directed for the following :— “¢ The best time for sowing Ipomea quamoclit, and rubro cerulea for plant- ing in the open air, is the end of Feb- ruary. They will both succeed under similar treatment, viz., to sow them in a gentle hot-bed, to pot them off sepa- rately, and encourage their growth until the end of May, when they may be planted out in light rich soil in a sheltered situation.”»—Gard. Chron. Or sow the seed in May or June in a warm situation, having previously soaked it for forty-eight hours in soft water. IPOMOPSIS elegans. “‘ Hardy bien- nial. Seed. Peat and loam, in a cold frame during July; leave three in a pot, and place in green-house for winter ; water moderately; shift in spring into forty-eights well drained; leave only two plants in a pot; water very mode- rately.”.—Pazton’s Bot. Dict. IRESINE. Four species. Halfhardy herbaceous. Seeds, in a gentle hotbed. Rich loam and peat. IRIS. LEighty-nine species. Chiefly hardy bulbs. ‘f£. clandestina ; I. crassi- folia ; and I. deflexa, require the shelter ofa greenhouse. The soil cannot well be teo sandy for them. Seed or divi- sion of the roots. Dr. Lindley gives the following di- rections for cultivating the English and Spanish species :— «¢ About August prepare a bed two feet deep, the soil of which must be composed of equal parts of rich loam, sandy peat, and either well rotted dung or leaf mould, all well incorporated to- gether. The beginning of September, plant the bulbs about three inches deep, placing a little fine sand around each, and afterwards cover and level the sur- ace; nothing else will be required ex- cept stirring the surface of the soil in the spring. The Irises will bloom about the middle of June, and the seeds will _ripen in the beginning of August; when, if it is required, the bulbs should be taken up; but it mast be observed that when they are removed they seldom A flower well the following season, and therefore should not be replanted more than once in five or six years. When the bulbs are taken up they should be placed in dry sand for about a month, and afterwards planted in the manner before mentioned. Seeds of Irises should be sown in drills in September, in light sandy soil; they will come up the following spring, but the young bulbs should remain for two or three years before they are removed. ‘‘'The best way to treat the Persian Iris, is to place the roots, in October, in pots filled with a mixture of either sandy loam well drained and Jeaf mould, or sandy peat and well rotted dung, and set them in some dry pit for the winter, and give but little water until the spring, and when they begin to show their blooms, plant them in the open bed. If this is carefully done they will be gay during April and the beginning of May, but they must be protected from the spring frost when in bloom, or they will not last long in flower. Persian Irises are tender, and will not survive the winter in the open border, unless the situation is dry, for they suffer more from the effects of damp than cold. They may also be grown like hyacinths in glasses filled with water, in the windows of sitting rooms, and are de- sirable for such a situation, as two or three plants will scent a room. They also succeed in pure sand if the roots are strong. ‘¢ The roots must be taken up in the open beds every season, and either pot- ted or preserved in sand during the winter, but if not potted before the spring they become exhausted, and do not flower well, whereas if planted in. the open bed in autumn, they are almost sure to perish.”,—Gard. Chron. IRISH HEATH. Menziesia polifolia. IRON-WORT. Sideritis. IRRIGATION, as employed by the farmer, is chiefly beneficial in proportion to the amount of saline and decompos- ing matter contained in solution by the water employed. But this is not the exclusive cause of benefit, for much of this arises from the increased and per- manent supply of moisture to the roots of the plants. These can only derive food from the soil in a gaseous or liquid form; and the decomposing matters in a soil decompose, and constantly are converted into gaseous and soluble mat- Pa A Se eee ee ee T ISE \ 326 JAN — —— ters, with a rapidity proportioned to the abundance of water supplied to them. Experience shows that there is in the kitchen garden scarcely 1 crop that is not benefited by a much more abundant supply of water than can be obtained usually ; and I can bear testimony to the correctness of Mr. Knight’s conclusion, not limiting, however, my approval of such abundant watering to late crops of peas, but to all, as well as beans, spinach, and the entire cabbage tribe. Kidney beans and potatoes are not bene- fited by such an abundance of water. “¢ The quantity of water,’? says Mr. Knight, ** which may be given with advantage to plants of almost every kind, during warm and bright weather, is, I believe, very much greater than any gardener who has not seen the result will be inclined to suppose pos- sible; and it is greater than I myself could have believed upon any other evidence than that of actual experience. *¢ My garden, in common with many others, is supplied with water by springs, which rise in.a more elevated situation; and this circumstance afforded me the means of making a small pond, from which I can cause the water to flow out over every part of every other kind through every part of the summer ; and I cause a stream to flow down the rows of celery, and along the rows of brocoli and other plants, which are planted out in summer, with very great advantage. But the most extensive and beneficial use which I make of the power to irri- gate my garden by the means above mentioned, is in supplying my late crops of peas abundantly with water, by which the ill effects of mildew are almost wholly prevented, and my table is most abundantly supplied with very excellent peas through the month of October.” ISERTIA coccinea. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. ISMENE. Fivespecies. Stove bulbs. Offsets. Turfy loam and peat. ISOPLEXIS. Twospecies. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Seed and cut- tings. Light rich loam. ISOPOGON. Fifteenspecies. Green- | house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Turfy sandy loam. ISOPYRUM. Two species. Hardy. One annual, the other herbaceous. Seed. Light loam. IVY. Hedera. ’ IXIA. Twenty-four species. Green- house bulbs; but most of them, in light soil and south border, protected slightly in winter, will grow in the open air. Those grown in pots should be kept in a dry place until the beginning of No- vember. The soil best adapted for them is a sandy peat mixed with a little loam. After repotting in that month, they may be kept in a ‘coo] airy situa- tion, and as soon as they begin to grow, they may be watered freely, and placed in the green-house.—Gard. Chron., &c. IXODIA achilleotdes. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and sand. IXORA. Fourteen species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. JABOROSA. Two species. Hardy herbaceous. Cuttings. Light rich loam. JACARANDA. Sevenspecies. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy peat and loam. JACKSONIA. Four species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. JACOBAA LILY. Amaryllis for- mosissima. JACQUINIA. Six species. Stove evergreenshrubs. Cuttings. Sand and peat. JALAP. Mirabilis jalapa. JAMAICA EBONY. Brya ebenus. JAMAICA REDWOOD. Gordonia hematoxylon. JAMAICA ROSE. Meriania. JAMBOSA. Seven species. Stove evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. JANUARY isa month requiring little more from the gardener in the out-door department than attention to neatness, but it usually requires more than ordi- nary care to his hot-house and forcing department. The following directions contain the principal routine work of the month :— KITCHEN GARDEN. Artichokes, attend to, shelter, &¢.— Asparagus, plant in hot-bed; attend to the forcing; temp. about 65°, and at night 50°.—Beans, plant in hot-beds.— Brocoli, protect from frost.—Cardoons, attend to, shelter, &e.— Cawliflowers, in frames, and those priecked out, attend to.—Composts, prepare and turn over.— Cucumbers, sow and prick out; temp. by day 80°, and at night 65°.—Dung, for JAN 327 JAN ——— hot-beds, prepare; wheel on to vacant ground.—£arth, for hot-beds, prepare. —Frost, protect plants from.—Ground, trench vacant.—Hot-beds, make and at- tend to.—Kale (Sea), begin forcing, b. Kidney Beans, sow in hot-bed, e.—Let- tuces in frames, attend; transplant to force.—Melons, sow, for fruiting in May; day temp. 75°, night 65°.—Mint, force, in hot-bed.—Mushroom Beds, make, and attend to those producing; procure horse droppings for. — Mustard and Cress, sow in hot-bed.—Onions, ex- amine stored.—Parsley, protect from frost.—Peas, plant in hot-bed; and pre- pare sticks.—Potatoes, plant in slight hot-bed.—Radishes, sow in hot-bed.— Rape (for salading), sow in hot-bed.— Rhubarb, begin forcing, b.—-Tansy, plant in hot-bed.—- Tarragon, plant in hot-bed, and do any work which will lessen that of the following busier months.—Wood- lice, destroy in the mushroom-house. ORCHARD. Apples (Espalier), prune, &c.—Apri- cots, prune and train in frosty weather. Brine, apply with a scrubbing brush to stems and brances of fruit trees, to de- stroy insects, eggs, and moss.—Cher- ries (Wall and Espalier), prune and train. — Currants, prune. — Espaliers, prune and regulate.—Figs, protect from frost.—Fork the. surface around fruit trees. — Gooseberries, prune. — Mulch, put around newly planted trees.—Nec- tarines, prune and train in frosty wea- ther.— Peaches (see Nectarine).—Pears (Espalier), prune, &c.—Plums (Wall and Espalier), prune.—Pruning, at- tend to generally.— Raspberries, prune. —Snails, destroy in their torpid state. —Stake and support trees newly plant- ed.—Siandards, remove dead and ir- regular branches from.—Trench and prepare borders, &c., for planting.— Vines, prune and train.—Wall Trees generally, prune and regulate.— Walls. It is a very beneficial plan to paint these by means of a white-washer’s brush, with a liquid mixture of 8 Ibs. lime, 4 lbs. soot, and § Ibs. sulphyr. It de- stroys and banishes insects, as well as by its dark colour promoting the warmth of the wall. The liquid @mployed, in which to mix the above, should be urine and soapsuds in equal proportions. FLOWER GARDEN. | Anemones, protect from cold, &c.— Annuals, sow in pots and put in hot- house, &c., b.— Auriculas, protect from cold, &c.; give earth and compost to. — Carnations, protect from cold, &c.— Cuttings of hardy deciduous shrubs may be prepared, e.—Edgings, make. Slate painted green, and Gentinella planted within, is handsome and dura- ble.—Gravel, roll in dry weather.— Hedges, of Privet, &c., plash.—Hya- cinths, protect from cold, &c.—Layers of hardy shrubs may still be pegged down.—-Manure, apply generally.— Mulch, put round roots of Jately plant- ed trees.—Potted Plants, secure well from frost.—Prune, and regulate flow- ering shrubs.—Ranunculuses, plant, if before omitted; protect from cold, &c. —Rose Trees, scrub with brine, to de- stroy scab, insects, &¢.—Salt, sow over grass, to drive away worms, &c.—Seed- lings, in borders, protect with mats.— Trench vacant ground.—Tulips, protect from cold, &c.; plant, if omitted, 'b. HOT-HOUSE. ' Air, admit as much as possible.— Apricots (see Peach.)—Bark Beds, stir, and renew, if heat declines.—Cherries (see Peach).—Cucumbers, in pots, in- troduce ; water frequently, and train. —Currants, water frequently.—-Figs (see Vines). They should be in pots in the Vinery.—F lowers in pots (Roses, Carnations, &c.,) introduce. Gooseber- ries, water frequently.— Head down spe- cimen plants, as Justicias, &¢.— Kidney Beans, sow in small spots, not larger than twenty-fours; water frequently.— Light, admit as freely as possible.— Mats, put over glass in very severe weather, even in the day time.—Necta- rines and Peaches in blossom keep at about 55° during the day, and at night about 400; water very sparingly ; shake branches gently to distribute the pollen; stir earth around often.—-Pine Apples (fruiting), require increased bottom heat to about 859; water about once a week ; temperature in house from 60° to 70°.—Salading, in boxes sow.— Stove, temp. not above 60° in the day, and at night 40°.—Strawberries, in pots, introduce; when blossoming, water fre- quently; day temp. not more than 53°. —Thermometer, watch its dictates.— Vines, in leaf, keep about 60°; in blos- som about 70° during day, at night 50°; protect stems outside by haybands; give liquid manure.—Wash the leaves JAS 328: JUL rt of all plants, as requisite, either with a sponge or by watering.—Water, soft and warm as the house, apply as requi- site; in pots, &c., keep constantly in the house. GREEN-HOUSE. Air, admit at every favourable time, when the temperature outside is above 32°.—Earth in the pots and borders, stir frequently.— Fires to exclude frost and damp should be lighted as required ; day temp. 50°, night temp. 40°.—Fogs, especially exclude. Leaves, wash, when foul; (decayed), remove as they appear.—Succulent Plants now scarce- ly require any water.— Water sparingly, and in mild weather, and about noon.— Windows, keep closed both in foggy and frosty weather; cover with mats or shutters in rigorous seasons, even in the day time. JASIONE. Two species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Division and cut- tings. Peat. JASMINUM. Jasmine. Thirty-two species. Stove, green-house, and har- dy climbers, twiners, and shrubs. Ripe cuttings. The stove and green-house species require sandy loam and peat, but the hardy species any common soil. JEFFERSONIA diphylla. Hardy herbaceous. Seed and division. Com- mon soil. JERSEY THISTLE. Centaurea is- nardi. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. He- lianthus tuberosus. Sotl and situation.—It flourishes most in a rich light soil with an open expo- sure. Trees are particularly inimical to its growth. Time and Mode of Planting. As it never ripens its seed here, though it blossoms sometimes in October, the only mode of propagation is by plant- ing the middle-sized bulbs, or cuttings of the Jarge ones, one or two eyes being preserved in each. These are planted towards the end of March, though it may be performed in February, or even preferably in October. They are inserted by the dibble in rows three feet by two feet apart, and four inches deep. They make their appearance above ground about the middle of May. The only attention necessary is to keep them free from weeds, and an occasional hoeing to loosen the surface, a little of the earth being drawn. up about the stems. At the close of July or early in August, cut the stems off about their middle, to ad- mit more freely the air and light, and in other respects to be beneficial to the tubers. They may be taken up as wanted during September; and in October, or as. soon as the stems have withered, entirely, for preservation in sand for winter’s use. They should be raised as completely as possible; for the small- est piece of tuber will vegetate and ap- pear in the spring. It is for this reason that they are often allotted some remote corner of the garden ; but their culinary merits certainly demand a more favour- able treatment. JERUSALEM SAGE. Philomis fruc- ticosa. JET D°EAU. See Fountain. JOHNIA. Two species. Stove ever- greens; one a climber, the other shrub- by. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. JOLLIFFIA africana. Stove ever- green twiner. Cuttings of flowering shoots. Sandy loam and peat. JONESIA. Two species. Stove evergreens; one climbing, the other a tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. JONQUILLE. See Narcissus. JOSSINIA orbiculata. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Loam and eat. _JOVE’S FRUIT. Laurus diospyros. JUDAS TREE. Cercis. JUGLANS. Walnut tree. Five spe- cies, besides varieties. Hardy decidu- ous trees. Seed and grafts. Rich loam. See Walnut. JULUS. Snake millipede. J. terrestris.— Has about two hundred legs. Lead colour. Scaly, like wood- louse. Eats the roots of the pansy. J. pulchellus.—Ochreous colour, with crimson spots down its sides. Legs, about 170. Attacks roots of beans, cabbages, peas, and scarlet beans. J. complanatus. Lilac colour. Sixty legs.—Gard. Chron. JULY isa busy month, as will appear from the following directions :— KITCHEN GARDEN. Alexanders, earth up.— Artichokes, attend to. — Asparagus-beds, clean; Jeave off cutting from.—Beans, plant, b.; leave some in production for seed.— Beet (Red), thin, b.; (Green and White), sow, b.—-Borage, sow, e.—Borecole, JUL plant; prick out.——Brocoli, prick out ; lant.--Cabbages, plant; prick out seed- ings; earth up advancing.——Carrots, thin, b. ;--Cauliflowers, plant, e.—Ce- leriac, plant.—Celery, prick out; plant; earth up.—-Chamomile Flowers, gather. —-Chervil, sow, e.——Coleworts, plant.— Coriander, sow.—Cress, sow.——Cucum- bers, plant for pickles.—-Earth up where necessary._—Endive, plant; sow.——Fi- nochio, earth up.—Garlic, take up as wanted.—Hoeing, particularly attend ro.—Horse-radish, attend to.—Kidney Beans (dwarfs), sow ; attend to advanc- ing crops.—Lavender, gather.—Leeks, weeds, &c.; plant, b.—Lettuces, plant; sow ; Marigold Flowers, gather.—Mar- joram, gather for drying.—Melons, at- tend to;—Mint, plant, b.—Mushroom- beds, attend to; make, e.; spawn, collect. —FParsley, sow.—Parsnips, weed, &c. —FPeas, sow; hoe advancing.—Pepper- mint, gather.—Pot-herbs, are fit in ge- neral for drying and distilling.—Ra- dishes, sow.—Rampion, is fit for use, e. —Rape (edible rooted), sow.—Salsafy, thin, &c.— Savoys, plant.—Scorzonera, thin, &c.—Scurvy Grass, sow.—Seeds, gather as they ripen.— Small Salading, sow.—Spinach, sow; hoe and thin.— Stir ground between plants.—Succory, sow.—Ruta Baga, sow,; hoe advancing crops.—Turnip Cabbages, prick out.— Vacant ground, dig; cleanse from weeds, &c.—Water where necessary.— Worm- wood, plant. ORCHARD. Budding, perform in all stone-fruit, apples, and pears; select cloudy wea- ther.—Espaliers, continue to regulate (see Wall Trees); young ones head down.—Fig Trees, regulate; remove over luxuriant shoots.—Pruning (sum- mer), complete. — Raspberries, clear from needless suckers. — Snails and slugs, search for morning and evening. —Stocks, clear from lateral shoots.— Strawberries, for forcing, lay in pots; Vines require constantly regulating ; all late shoots remove ; stop bearing shoots. —Wall Trees, continue to regulate as their shoots require; train in, do not shorten their shoots.—Wailnuts, gather for pickling.—Wasps, entrap; bottles of sugared beer are best.—Water newly planted trees in dry weather; keep mulch round. FLOWER GARDEN, Auriculas, in pots, dress and water 329 JUL ‘ frequently; seedlings transplant; old plants repot, e.—Box edgings, clip, b. — Budding of roses, jasmines, &c., complete.—Bulbous Roots, take up (see June); seeds sow.— Bulbs, autumn flowering, plant, e.—Carnations, at- tend to (see June); shade and shelter during hot weather; water freely, and give liquid manure.—Chrysanthemum suckers, separate and plant ; lay.—Cut- tings of some plants, as scarlet lychnis, will yet strike, b.—Dahlias require sup- port and pruning.—Edgings, clip.— Evergreens, prune; seedlings, prick out.—Grass, mow and roll often.— Gravel, weed and roll.—Heartsease, plant slips, e.; water freely.—Hedges, clip.—Hoe and rake at every opportu- nity.—Laying carnations, &c., may be performed, b.; water freely ; transplant rooted layers.—Leaves, decayed, re- move as soon as seen.— Liquid Manure, give occasionally to flowering shrubs.— Mignionette, and a few other quick flowering annuals, may be sown, b., for autumn.—Piping, of pinks, &c., may be still practised, b.; pelargonium cut- tings, plant, b.—Polyanthuses, seed- lings, transplant; roots of old, part— Roses, bud and lay, b.—Seeds, gather as they ripen.—Stake and tie up plants wherever necessary.— Transplanting perennials and biennials, complete, b. —Water freely, not only the roots but over the foliage. HOT-HOUSE,. Air, admit freely every fine day.— Dress pots, &c., frequently, and give fresh earth if plants languish._—Fumiga- tions of tobacco give frequently, espe- cially if insects prevail.—Liquid Manure give to weakly plants.—Orchidaceous Plants, keep in coolest parts of the house, and give very little water, or they will not bloom well next spring.— Pine Apples, plant by crowns or suckers; gather ripe, early in the morning; shift succession for next season; give liquid manure ; do not shift all at once, but at weekly intervals.—Potting, finish, b.— Propagate stove plants by cuttings, layers, and suckers, as suitable.—Steam, admit to plants.—Vines, when all the leaves are off, expose day and night; grapes, ripening late, require a mo~ derate moist heat, and air only of a morning.—Water frequently and abun- dantly, but rather less to flowering plants than last month. JUL 330 JUN ——— GREEN-HOUSE. ' Air, admit freely to all plants de- tained in the house.—Bud, oranges, lemons, &c.— Camellias, syringe and water frequently; shade in hot days.— Cuttings, slips, &c., water.—Dress and give fresh earth as required.— Heaths, plant, slips—Layers may be made.— Moving out of house (see June). — Oranges and Lemons require water dai- ly; thin fruit if thick; remove blossoms where fruit is thick enough; give earth; air, admit freely.— Peat plants, examine almost daily to see that they do not dry. —Propagate by cuttings, slips, &c.— Seedlings, prick into small pots.—Shade during hot bright days; calico frames are best.— Shifting, complete, b. — Stove plants (hardier) may be moved into green-house. — Stake, trim, and train as required. — Succulent plants, cultivate by cuttings, slips, and suckers. —Watering and cleaning are now the chief occupations; apply water early in the morning by the engine. JULY-FLOWER. Prosopis julifiora. JUNE is also a busy month. KITCHEN GARDEN. Alexanders, earth up.— Artichokes, weed, &c.—Asparagus-beds clean, &c. — Basil, plant.—Beans, plant, hoe, &c., advancing crops.— Beets, thin, &c.— Borecole, plant.—Brocoli, plant.—Cab- bage, plant; earth up, &c.—Capsicum, plant, b.—Cardoons, thin and plant out. —Carrots, thin, &c.—Celeriac, plant.— Celery, plant; earth up advancing.— Coleworts, sow for; plant.—Coriander, sow.—Cress, sow.—Cucumbers, sow, b. —Earthing-up, attend to.—Endive, sow, b.; plant.— Fennel, plant. — Finochio, sow; earth up advancing crops.—Gar- lic is fit for present use.—Herbs, for drying and distilling, gather.—Jerusalem Artichokes, hoe, &c.— Kidney Beans (dwarfs), sow; (runners), attend to.— Leeks, thin, &c.; transplant, e.— Lettuce, sow; plant, &c.—Mint, plant.—Pars- nips, thin.—Peas, sow; attend to ad- vancing crops.—Potatoes, hoe, &c. — Radishes, sow.—Rampion, thin.—Sage, plant.—Salsafy, thin.—Savoys, plant; prick out.—Scorzonera, thin.—Scurvy Grass, sow.—Seeds, attend to and gather. —Small Salading, sow.—Spinach, sow; thin advancing.—Stir Ground between crops, in rows, &c.—Succory, sow.— Tarragon, plant.—Thinning, attend to. —Tomatos, plant out.—Turnip Cabbage, sow ; plant.—Watering and Weeding, attend to.— Wormwood, plant. ORCHARD. Ants, destroy; the ammonia water from gas-works, or boiling water poured into their haunts is effectual.— Apricots, finish summer regulating, b.—Blighted Trees, clean by the water engine; lime dust, &c.— Budding, commence in cloudy weather, or during evening, e.— Fig Trees, prune.—Gooseberries, Cur- rants (Wall and Espalier), regulate, b.; remove blighted shoots; summer prune, e.—Nectarines, finish summer regulat- ing.—Newly planted Trees, stake and fasten ; give water in dry weather; li- quid manure to the weakly ; keep mulch round. — Pears (Wall and Espalier), properly regulate, b.— Plums (Wall and Espalier), properly regulate, b.— Scarify, trunks of hide-bound trees, rather than in winter, but this affection will never occur, if they are scrubbed in January with brine.—Snazls, Slugs, search for, morning and evening. — Strawberries, water in dry weather.— Thinning fruit on walls, complete, b. —Vines before omitted, finish, regulat- ing, b.; and those done in May re-exa- mine. FLOWER GARDEN. Anemones, take up as leaves wither; dry and store.—Annuals (hardy and some tender), plant out to remain, in showery weather best; some (hardy) may be sowed, b.—Auriculas, continue shading ; plant offsets; prick out seed- lings. — Baskets or clumps, form. of green-house plants. — Biennials and Perennials, sow, if omitted, b.—Bor edgings clip; plant.— Bulbous Roots (Tulips, Jonquils, &c.), take up as leaves decay; remove offsets from; dry and store; may transplant some, or keep until autumn ; (autumn flower- ing), as Colchicums, &c., take up as leaves decay, separate offsets, and re- plant, or not, until end of July.—Car- nations, in bloom, attend; aid the bud- pod to split with a pair of narrow sharp- pointed scissors; water every second day; tie to supporters, &c.; prick out seedlings; make layers; pipe.—Cycla- mens, transplant.—Dahilias, finish plant- ing out, b.—Dress the borders assidu- ously; neatness now stamps a gardener’s character.—Fibrous rooted Perennials, propagate by cuttings of flower-stalks ; JUN 331 KEL He shade and water.—Flowering Plants generally require training and support. —Grass, mow, roll and trim edges.— Gravel, weed, sweep, and roll.—Guern- sey Lilies, take up; separate offsets, and replant. Do this every second year. —Hedges, clip, e.—Leaves and stems decaying, remove as they appear.— Liquid Manure, apply occasionally to all choice flowers.—Mignionette, plant out; sow, b.—Pink seedlings, prick out; make Jayers.—Pipings (or Cuttings) of Carnations and Pinks may be planted.— Potted Flowers, dress, stir earth and water regularly. — Ranunculuses, take up as leaves wither, dry and store.— Roses, bud, lay, and inarch; fumigate with tobacco to destroy the Aphis, or Green Fly.—Salvia Patens, pinch down centre stem to make it flower bushy.— Seedlings of Perennials and Biennials, transplant.—Seeds (ripe), gather in-dry weather.—Seed Vessels, remove, to pro- long flowering.— Water, give freely and frequently to all newly moved plants, and to others in dry weather; early morning best time. ‘HOT-HOUSE. Air, admit freely during every mild day; but exclude as evening approaches. —Bark Beds, occasionally will require stirring ; water and ventilate freely.— Grapes, thin; ripening keep dry. — Heat, keep up as required.—Pines are now ripening; plant crowns as they occur; give liquid manure; syringe; shade in very hot days.—Propagation, continue as requisite, by seed, suckers, slips, layers, cuttings, offsets, &c. (See May.) — Steam, admit almost daily.— Strawberries done forcing, allow to dry; remove into larger pots with new earth, and keep for second forcing.—Syringe Pines, and other plants, frequently.— Tobacco fumigations, give occasionally. —Vines, push forward by warmth, li- quid manure, &c.; mulch round rove outside the house; stop laterals. — Watering attend to duly; it is required generally oftener and more liberally than in preceding months ; apply it in the morning early. GREEN-HOUSE. Air, give with all possible freedom ; bring all but the tenderest out of the house.—Camellias, done flowering, re- move into higher temperature. — Cut- tings of various plants may now be in- serted.—Dress the plants as they are brought out of the house.—Earth, give fresh, and liquid manure, as necessary. — Flowering shrubs, shade. —— Gera- niums, plant cuttings.—Head down and prune irregular growing shrubs. — Heaths, plant slips; water frequently.— Inarching of jasmines, oranges, &c., may be performed.—Leaves (decayed), remove, and wash the foliage generally. —Layers of shrubs generally make.— Mowings of grass spread over surface of earth in large pots or tubs—an excel- lent mode of arresting evaporation.— Myrtles, propagate by cuttings, e.;— Oranges and Lemons in bloom, give liquid manure; thin blossom when in clusters.—Rain, if excessive, move ten- derest plants back into the house; and tilt the pots of others.—Seedlings, trans- plant.— Shift into larger pots, as neces- sary, b.—Succulent plants propagate by cuttings ; remove to outside, e.— Water frequently, but moderately ; some plants require it every morning or evening. JUNIPERUS. Juniper. Nineteen species besides varieties. Hardy ever- green trees and shrubs. Seed and cut- tings. Sandy loam. See Conifere. JUPITER’S BEARD. Anthyllis bar- ba-jovis. JUSTICIA. Sixty-four species. Stove and green-house plants; some shrubs, others biennials and annuals, and a third group trailers. The bien- nials and annuals require to be sown in a hot-house or hotbed; the others are increased by cuttings, and ali delight in light loam and peat. KAGENECKIA crategoides. hardy evergreen tree. Cuttings. loam and peat. KALANCHOE. Stove evergreen shrubs. Loam and peat. KALE. See Borecole. KALMIA. Five species and more varieties. _ Hardy evergreen shrubs. Seed and layers. Sandy loam and peat. KALOSANTHES. Eight species. Green-house evergreen succulents. Cut- tings dried for forty-eight hours ; sandy loam and peat. KANGURU VINE. ticus. KAULFUSSIA amelloides. annual. Seed. Sandy loam. KELP is the-ash remaining after sea- weed is burnt, and has been used with great advantage as a manure to pota- Half- Sandy Seven species. Cuttings. Cissus antare- Hardy KEN 332 KID ee toes, brocoli, and other species of bras- sica. It is composed of carbonate of soda, and iodide and bromide of potas- sium, carbon, sulphates of lime and magnesia, and other matters of trivial importance. See Green Manure. KENNEDYA. Green-house evergreen twiners. tings. Sandy loam and peat. KERRIA japonica. Hardy deci- duous shrub. Young cuttings. Com- mon soil. More commonly called Cor- chorus japonicus. KIDNEY-BEAN. Phaseolus vulga- vis. Haricot, Fr. Schminkbohne, Ger. Judias, Span. Faguiolo, Ital. ‘< Of the Snap-Short Bean, the Hari- cot of the French, the varieties and sub-varieties are numerous. Those enumerated in the Catalogue annexed, are such as we esteem most worthy; they consist of the earliest, the latest, and those which ripen intermediately. The Early Mohawk or Brown Six Weeks arrives soonest at perfection, and is the hardiest of the early ones ; the Early Yellow, Red Speckled Val- entine, and China Red Eye, immediate- ly succeed. The Red French is about the latest: the other varieties ripen promiscuously. All the kinds are brought to the Philadelphia market ; some purchasers preferring one, and others another. The Red Speckled Valentine is a variety very generally admired; it is round podded, without strings, an abundant bearer, and re- mains tender longer than most others. The Brown Valentine or Refugee, is also an excellent variety, as also the China Red Eye. The pods of the Red French are used as well for pickling as boiling, and the beans throughout the winter in a dry state, as haricots, and in soups, for which it is usually pre- ferred. ‘¢ The usual plan of cultivating this tribe, is in drills double or single, placing two seeds together at inter- vals of two or three inches: two to two and a half feet should be allowed between the drills. They are much more tender than the Long Pod or Windsor, and will not succeed, if planted before the weather has become somewhat settled, and the earth. warm ; in the latitude of Philadelphia, not earlier than April, unless in very dry ground, and protected situations. To have a constant supply, it will be ne- Cut- Fifteen species. cessary to plant successive crops at intervals of two or three weeks, which is much preferable to planting but sel- dom, and then a larger quantity. Plan- tations made so late as Ist August, ge- nerally succeed and yield abundantly. ‘¢ When they have risen three or four inches, give them a careful hoeing, to destroy all weeds, and loosen the earth. At this time, or shortly after, draw to- wards the base of the plants, some of the loose soil, to the depth of one or two inches. This process is termed ‘* Janding,”? and is highly beneficial in protecting the roots from excessive drought, and the direct rays of the sun. As the crop approaches matu- rity, nothing more is required than an occasional hoeing, observing always to keep the ground free from weeds. **In selecting a spot to plant beans, choose where the soil is light and tole- rably dry. If it be poor, apply a good dressing of well rotted manure, either spread over the entire surface, or placed in the drills when drawn out.?? —Rural Register. Forcing.—The hot-bed must be of moderate size, and covered with earth nine inches thick. When the heat has become regular, the seed may be in- serted in drills a foot apart, and the plants allowed to stand six inches asun- der in the rows. Air must be admitted. as freely as to the melon. The same precautions are likewise necessary as to keeping up the temperature, taking the chill off the water &c., as for that plant. When the seed begins to sprout, the mould should be kept regularly moist- ened; and when grown up, water may be given moderately, three times a week. The temperature should never be less than 60°, nor higher than 75°. Some plants of the hot-bed sowing at the end of March, are often, after being gradu- ally hardened, planted in a warm bor- der: this will at most hasten the plants in production a fortnight before those sown in the open ground in May. Those sown under frames in March for transplanting into a border, when two or three inches in height, must in a like manner be hardened gradually for the exposure, by the plentiful admission of air, and the total removal of the glasses during fine days. If any are raised in pots in the hot-house, they must in a like manner be prepared for the removal, by setting them outside in KID 333 KID a) fine days, and there watering them with cold water. If the season is too ungenial after all to remove them even to a warm border, the plants are often inserted in patches, to have the protection of frames or hand lights at night, or as the weather demands. Said to be perennial.—It has been stated, that kidney beans appear of a perennial nature, and that they have been observed to vegetate for several years—the plants being in the vicinity of a steam-engine, and so situated that the frost could not penetrate to the roots. Beans, Pole.—The Scarlet Runners, and White Dutch Beans, are very deli- cately flavoured, and are used either in the pod, or shelled when further advanced; but in this section of the country, and perhaps further South, they bear so sparingly most seasons, as to be scarcely worth cultivating. The Lima is too well known to need description. Two varieties are culti- vated; the one broad and thin, the other much thicker. We have some- times thought the latter the more tender and delicate when boiled. The Lima Bean is very tender, not bearing the slightest frost, and is very subject to rot when planted early, or during a spell of rainy or damp cool weather. To guard against which, the best plan is to sprout them in a frame, (as recommended for the Long Pod or Windsor,) so situated, that the damp and frost can be excluded. An old hot-bed answers the purpose effectually. They need not be planted therein, before the middle of spring, nor transplanted till towards its close; a little earlier or later, as the weather may make expedient; if planted early, they will at best remain stationary, and may, perhaps, do worse. They should be planted in hills in well cultivated ground, dressed either in the piece or hills, with thoroughly rotted manure from the barn-yard. The hills should be raised three or four inches above the average level, and be three feet apart each way, with a pole six or eight feet high, well secured in the ground, to each hill. Three plants in a hill are sufficient. As the vines shoot up, they should be tied to the poles, till they get hold, when they will support them- selves, In trying them, observe to do it in the direction in which they incline to clasp the pole, which is contrary to the course of the sun, and opposite to the habit of most climbers. Those who have not the convenience of a frame, (or hand-glass which will answer the same purpose,) should have the hills prepared and poles inserted, choosing a mild, dry time, about the close of May, for planting the beans. If wet weather should immediately succeed, and the seed rot, replant as soon as the ground dries. Good crops have been produced in the vicinity of Philadelphia, when planted even so late as first of June. After they become well established, and have clasped the poles, no further care is requisite, other than keeping the weeds under, and the hills occasionally stirred. The Carolina or Sewee bean, is of a smaller size than the Lima; much hardier, rather earlier, and more pro- ductive, but generally considered less rich. In other respects they closely resemble each other—time and mode of planting may be a little in advance of the Lima—cultivation precisely the same.—Rural Reg. Beans, English. Vicia Faba, of Linnaeus. Feve de marais, Fr. Bohn, Ger. Fava, Ital. Habas, Span. Of the above kind, commonly called in this country ‘* Horse Bean,”’ there is considerable variety ; two of them have been selected by us for cultivation, be- lieving them the best adapted for the climate, and quite sufficient of the kind. They are the Early Long Pod and Broad Windsor. Both succeed with the same treatment, but the first named, is the more certain bearer of the two. In England, where they are extensively cultivated, they do much better than in this country, preferring its damp cool atmosphere, to our frequently dry and hot one; to counteract which, it is de- sirable to plant so early in the spring, as the ground will admit of being worked; in the latitude of Philadelphia, (39° 57’) the latter part of February, or beginning of March, if possible; they then come into flower before the weather becomes hot, otherwise the blossoms drop, and set no fruit. Plant them in drills, either single or double, two inches apart in the drills, and cover one to two inches deep. If in double drills, with alleys two and a half feet wide. If in single rows, two KIR 334 KIT eed feet alleys answer, unless it be intended to cultivate them with the horse hoe, as is done by market gardeners. Those who are particularly fond of this bean, can accelerate the crop, by setting a frame at the close of winter, under the lee of a board fence, or other protected situation, exposed to the sun, which cover with glass, and in severe weather with matting or straw, so as effectually to exclude the frost. Herein pliant the beans, one seed to the square inch, and let them remain, until the arrival of milder weather, when they should be transplanted to the position in the garden which it is intended they shall. occupy. In transplanting them, care should be taken not to injure the roots, to guard against which, use a trowel to ease them up, and suffer as much earth as will, to adhere. During the time they remain in the frame, the sash should be raised when the weather is mild, to admit the air, and gradually harden them, preparatory to full ex- posure when transplanted, else the sud- den change of temperature might prove fatal. In order to make them set fruit more certainly, it is the practice to nip off the top or leading shoots when they are in full flower; this checks the growth, and directs the strength of the plant towards the blossoms. If a part of the flowers are destroyed in this operation, there is no loss. Whilst the crop is growing and pro- gressing towards maturity, keep the ground well hoed, and free from weeds. When the plants have attained six or eight inches in height, draw towards their base a portion of loose earth, which will encourage them to put forth fresh fibres, and protect the roots already formed, from the sun’s rays.—Rural Register. KIRGANELIA elegans. Stove ever- green shrub. Ripe-cuttings. Loam and eat. KITAIBELIA vitifolia. Hardy herb- aceous. Seed. Common soil. KITCHEN GARDEN. Situation of the Kitchen Garden.—In selecting the site, and in erecting the inclosures, as well as in the after pre- paration of the soil, the ingenuity and science of the horticulturist are essen- tially requisite. He will be called upon to rectify the defects and to improve the advantages which nature affords; for it is very seldom that the natural situation of a mansion, or the plan of the grounds, allows him to construct it in the most appropriate spot. A gentle declination towards the south, with a point to the east, is the most favourable aspect; to the north- east the least so: in short, any point to the south is to be preferred to one verg- ing towards the north. A high wall should inclose it to the north and east, gradually lowering to the south and , west. If, however, a plantation or building on the east side, at some dis- tance, shelter it from the piercing winds, which blow from that quarter, and yet are at such a distance as not to intercept the rays of the rising sun, it is much to be preferred to heightening the wall. It is a still greater desidera- tum to have a similar shelter, or that of a hill on the south-west and north- west points. The garden is best situated ata moderate elevation; the summit of a hill, orthe bottom of a valley, is equal- ly to be avoided. It is a fact not very difficult of explanation, that low lying ones are the most liable to suffer from blights and severe frosts; those much above the level of the sea are obviously most exposed to inclement winds. Size of the Kitchen Garden.—To de- termine the appropriate size of a kitchen garden is impossible. It ought to be proportionate to the size of the family, their partiality for vegetables, and the fertility of the soil. It may serve as some criterion to state, that the management of a kitchen garden occupying the space of an acre, affords ample employment for a garden- er, who will also require an assistant at the busiest period of the year. In general, a family of four persons, ex- clusive of servants, requires a full rood of open kitchen garden. Plan of the Kitchen Garden. — In forming the ground plan of a kitchen garden, utility isthe main object. The form and aspect represented in the accompanying sketch are, perhaps, as unobjectionable as any, since none of the walls face the north, and conse- quently the best aspects are obtained for the trees. A narrow path two feet wide should extend round, adjoining the wall, and then a border about ten feet, the widest on those broad sides that face the south, which not only is beneficial to the trees, but convenient for raising early crops, &c. Next to aS pee eee oY eet ee KNI this should be a walk five feet in width, likewise extending round the area. Respecting the inclosure of the kitch- en garden, see Hedges and Walls. KLEINHOVIA hospita. Stove ever- green tree. Cuttings. Peat and loam. KNIFE. Of this the gardener re- quires several kinds. 1. Garden Knife, with a curved blade, for common rough purposes. 2. Pruning Knife, with a straight blade, and fine edge. 3. Graft- ing Knife, also straight-bladed, but with a thinner and narrower blade. 4. Bud- ding Knife, is like the grafting knife, but should have a double-edged sharp point, like an oyster-knife, and the handle of ivory, is wedge-shaped, for raising the bark from the wood. There is a variety of superior excellence, call- ed Curtis’s Budding Knife. 5. Aspara- gus Knife, has either a strong straight blade, with a sharp chisel-shaped point, or a slightly curved blade, with a saw- edge on the inner side of the curve. KNIGHTIA ezcelsa. Green- house. evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. KNOXIA. Four species. Stove ever- green shrubs, except K. levis, which is annual. The former are increased by cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. KOLREUTERIA paniculata. Hardy deciduous tree. Layers and root-cut- tings. Sheltered common soil. KONIGA maritima, var. variegata. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Common soil. KRAMERIA pauciflora. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. KRIGIA. Two species. nuals. Seed. Sandy loam. KUHNIA. Four species. Two hardy, and two green-house herbaceous. Divi- sion. Sandy loam and peat. — Hardy an- 335 LAB KYDIA. Two species. Stove ever- green shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. LABEL. That which combines du- rability with facility of reference and cheapness, is a small piece of deal, planed smooth, painted white, and written upon with a lead pencil. Fig. 96. When required for a seed-bed, a small stake is to be driven into the ground, and from it the label to be suspended. . LABICHEA. Twospecies. Green- house shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. LABLAVIA. Six species, besides varieties. Stove and green-house twin- ers. Four annuals, the rest deciduous. Annuals sow in pots in stove, seedlings plant out at end of May. Deciduous by cuttings. Common soil. LABURNUM. Cytisus Laburnum. Varieties. — Common _ Broad-leafed Laburnum; Narrow-leafed long-spiked Laburnum; Short-spiked Laburnum ; Variegated-leafed Laburnum, and Mid- dle-sized Laburnum (C. L. interme- dium). The first two of which varieties are tolerably permanent from seed, but the other two must be continued by cuttings. Propagation. By Seed.—The seed grows freely in the open ground, and should be sown in March, in four-feet beds, drilling it in half an inch deep; they will come up in six or seven weeks. Keep them weeded during summer; and in spring following the seedlings in general, if they stand very close, may be transplanted into the nursery in rows, two feet distance, allowing them more room as they advance in growth; and here they may remain two, three, or four years, till large enough for the shrubbery. By Cuttings. — October or Novem- ber is the best time for planting them. Choose young shoots eight, ten, or twelve inches long; plant them in rows, a foot apart, and five or six inches in LAB the lines; and they will be rooted in one year. All the culture these plants require in the nursery, is to keep them clear from weeds, and to hoe frequently the ground between the rows.—Abercrom- bie. LABYRINTH is an arrangement of walks, inclosed by hedges or shrubbe- ries, so intricate as to be very difficult to escape from. From the twelfth cen- tury to the end of the seventeenth, they were a very favourite portion of English pleasure grounds, but they are now more judiciously banished. LACHENALIA. Thirty-five species. Green-house bulbs, except L. glauca, which is hardy. Seed and offsets. Sandy peat. LACHNANTHES tinctoria. Green- house herbaceous. Seed and division. Sandy peat. LACKEY MOTH. See Clisiocampa. LACTUCA. Lettuce. Seven species, and many varieties. Hardy annuals. Seed. Common rich soil. See Let- tuce. LADY’S FERN. Aspidium thelyp- terum. LADY’S MANTLE. Alchemilla. LADY’S SLIPPER. Cypripedium. LADY’S SMOCK. Cardamine. LADY’S TRESSES. Neottia spira- lis and spiranthes. LAELIA. Sixteen species. Stove epiphytes. Offsets. Peat and pots- herds. Mr. Beaton gives the following directions for the treatment of L. super- biens, and they are applicable to the rest of the genus :— ‘¢In April, place it in the warmest end of the green-house, and there let it remain till all its shoots are three parts grown, about the end of June; then place it in the stove, and Jet it have as much air as possible, watch its buds narrowly, and leave it in the stove till they are in a forward plump state, then remove it to a cooler place, and allow it to go gently to rest as the season de- clines. If all has gone on well with it, the flower spikes will make their ap- pearance as soon as it is at complete rest in November: at this time the same heat given to the camellia suits it best, so that it may safely be taken to the drawing room for the winter, and hav- ing previously finished its growth, little or no water need be given it while in the drawing room.”*—Gard. Chron. 336 LAM \ LAETIA thamnia. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich]oam and peat. LAGASCA mollis. Stove annual. Seed. Common soil. LAGENARIA vulgaris. See Gourd. LAGERSTREMIA. Four species. Stove evergreen shrubs, and one varie- ty, L. indica rosea, for the green-house. Cuttings. Peat and loam. For the culture of ZL. indica, Mr. R. Reid gives the following directions :— ‘¢Jt should be kept all winter in the green-house, or even the back sheds will do perfectly well, and no water should be given to it. About the middle or latter end of April, it will begin to grow, when the young shoots may be thinned out, and the remainder short- ened a little; the plant should then be placed in the stove or vinery, where there is a brisk heat. It will grow vi- gorously till June, and will then appear as if it had done growing for the season, but in a few weeks, when the young shoots are well ripened, it will make a second push at the extremity of every young shoot. These are the flowering shoots; and by the month of August it will be loaded with its beautiful tresses of purple flowers ??»—Gard. Chron. On light well drained soils and sheltered locations in Pennsylvania, the Lager- stremia supports the winter—further south it is seen in great luxuriance, fif- teen or twenty feet in height. LAGETTA lintearia. Stove ever- greenshrub. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. LAGONYCHIUM Stephanianum. Half-hardy evergreen-shrub. Seed, cut- tings, and layers. Common soil. LAHAYA. Ten species. L. alsini- folia and L. minuartoides are hardy; L. diffusa, a green-house, annual trailer ; the others green-house and stove ever- green shrubs, except L. polycanpoides, which is herbaceous. These are in- creased by cuttings. Sandy peat. LALAGE ornata. Green-house ever- green shrub. Young cuttings. Sand, loam, and peat. LAMBERTIA. Eight species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. LAMB’S LETTUCE, or CORN SA- LAD, (Valerianella olitoria,) is grown for winter and spring salads. The first dish formerly brought to table, was a red herring set in a corn salad. ; Soil and. Situation.—It will flourish in LAM 337 LAN ———. any soil that is not particularly heavy ; | the best is a sandy moderately fertile Joam, in an open situation. Time and Mode of Sowing.—Seed may be sown in February and the two following months, and once a month during the summer, if in request; but it is not so palatable during this season. Lastly, during August and early in Sep- tember, the plants from which will be fit for use in early spring, or during the winter, if mild. Three sowings are in general quite sufficient for a family, viz., one at the end of February, a second early in August, and a third early in September. The seed sown in drills, six inches apart. The only cultivation required is the keeping the plants free from weeds by frequent hoeings, they being previously thinned to four inches asun- der. They should always be eaten quite young. In summer, the whole plant may be cut, as they soon advance to seed at this season; but in spring and winter the outer leaves only should be gathered, as directed for spinach. To obtain Seed.—Some of the spring- raised plants must be left ungathered from. They flower in June, and per- fect their seed during the two following months. LAMIUM orvala. Hardy herbaceous. Seed and division. Common soil. Some varieties of L. longifolium and L. rugo- sum are also cultivated in gardens. LAMPWICK. Phlomis lychnitis. LAND-DITCHING. See Draining. LANDRA. Raphanus landra. LANDRETH, David, was a native of England, the son of a farmer of Ber- wick upon Tweed. Early in life his attention was attracted by plants and flowers, and yielding to his fondness for them, and impulses which they only who love nature can fully appreciate, he determined to adopt gardening as a profession. At that day the art was less widely and ardently pursued than at the present, and the sources of in- formation, and consequent means of im- provement, were limited. Then publi- cations on the subject were not, as now, of almost daily issue. Periodicals on gardening and rural affairs were un- known ; and, save the works of Miller, there was scarcely one for reference. Since then Horticulture has assumed its rightful place as a delightful if not a 22 fine art, cherished and pursued by the intellectual and refined. The subject of this sketch, after hav- ing availed himself of the usual routine of practice in the neighbourhood of his birth-place, as a mean most likely to promote his views, and extend his knowledge of the more approved rules of the profession which he had espoused, removed to the vicinity of London. Here he profited by an observance of the operations in the extensive nursery establishments and pleasure- grounds around the metropolis; and, having prepared himself for the efficient practice of his art, embarked for Ame- rica. The hostilities between the mo- ther country and her colonies, then ex- isting, prevented his sailing fora middle port, and he accordingly took passage for Quebec, where he resided for three years. On the conclusion of the war, his longing desire to remove to a south- ern point, and climate more genial to his pursuit, could now be gratified; and in the autumn of 1784 he arrived in Phi- ladelphia, the spot towards which his eye had been unwaveringly directed— but why, he has been heard to say, he could not tell. There all were stran- gers. Within its wide extent there did not live a solitary being with whom he could claim acquaintance, much less friendship. How many have since fol- lowed from their father-land, and found peaceful and happy homes! With a pocket but scantily supplied, and winter approaching, when but little employment in his line could be ex- pected, he availed himself of a tempo- rary engagement. It was not long, however, ere his qualifications and cor- rect deportment secured the favourable notice of Robert Morris, the distinguish- ed revolutionary patriot, in whose em- ployment he entered, and continued for several years, and with whose regard he was honoured until the close of Mr. ' Morris’ eventful life. Mr. L., on relinquishing the employ- ment of Mr. Morris, was enabled to — carry out his long-cherished and origi- nal design of establishing himself as a urseryman; and shortly thereafter laid the foundation of what has been known throughout the Union, for more than half a century, as the “ Landreth -Nurseries.”?> He ultimately associated — with himself a younger brother, Cuth- bert, who had followed him to America, —s LAN 338 LAN —_4—_— and their united efforts enabled them successfully to conduct what was then considered an extensive business. A scrupulous regard to what was due to others secured respect and moderate competency. To the brothers Landreth, Philadel- phia is, in a degree, indebted for the} early development of horticultural taste, and in the facilities which they afforded for its gratification the whole Union has participated. Their productions, orna- mental and useful, have been distributed far and wide. Specimens of fruits and flowers from their grounds exist in al- most every town and hamlet in the country. The earliest collection of Ca- mellias in America was made by them, | and their importations of valuable plants | and fruits were extensive. Their col-| lection of indigenous plants, obtained through the agency and friendship of, traveling collectors, and local corre-| spondents, was, perhaps, the largest of | its day, if we except the magnificent ene of the Bartram Botanic Garden. _ How vast have been the enlargement of horticultural taste, and the means of | gratifying it since Mr. Landreth first embarked in his floral enterprise! Then a green-house, or, as it was popularly termed, a ‘* glass-house,’? was an ob- ject of amazement, and a simple rose, exhibited in a window budding and blooming ‘‘ out of season,” attracted a wondering crowd. Nowa residence in town or country is scarcely considered perfect which does not embrace at least a room prepared for the preservation of plants; and the thousands who throng the exhibitions of our Horticultural So- ciety evince the extent of interest on the subject. The temperate and regular habits of Mr. Landreth promoted health, and protracted life beyond the ordinary term. In manners he was plain and unobtrusive; his temperament ardent, actively sympathizing with the afflicted, or warming with indignation at oppres- sion. His fondness for plants increased with age, and, though their culture was the source of his support, he loved them for themselves alone. ‘¢ Trade” was, with him, an adjunct to the grati- fication of a refined enjoyment. Never . did painter look upon his canvas, in glo- rious enthusiasm for his art, with an eye more abstracted from the lucre which his pencil brought, than did David Lan- dreth in the contemplation of his floral family. A beautiful plant, a noble tree, or a landscape decorated by the hands of nature or of man, were to him objects of the purest pleasure. After an active and well-spent life, and with an enviable reputation, he died on the 22d August, 1836, aged 84. LANDSCAPE GARDENING, as its name intimates, is the composition of beautiful scenery, so that all artifice is concealed by the blending of trees, shrubs, ground, and water; thus form- ing vistas gratifying as those which occur naturally. Admiration for such scenery is an innate quality of the hu- man mind; and successfully to imitate such scenery requires judgment as well as taste. It is not possible, without an enormous outlay, to introduce any spe- cies of landscape beauty upon a given plot of ground. There is the beauty of the level surface, quite unattainable upon a surface which is abrupt and bro- ken. The beauty of the clay districts is not to be secured upon those of the chalk; neither on light uplands can be arranged the dense beauties of well- watered alluvions. “‘ Consult the genius of the place”? is an axiom which has been derided, but which is dictated by the soundest sense. A writer upon the general principles of landscape gardening has some very judicious remarks, from which the fol- lowing are extracts :— ‘¢ Although due light and shade are necessary to bring out striking effects, colour must be attended to. Light and shade, we all know, when the sun shines, vary every moment; and there- fore it becomes a study so to assort objects, within range of the principal point of view, as to bring out various good effects. Not only must we regard the diurnal motion of the sun, but his position in the ecliptic; so that when he is at various elevations and posi- tions, light may make the lights and shadows spread out where they may make the strongest impression on the eye. ‘¢ This is a point not much attended to, but one of the greatest value, and well deserving the closest study by the landscape-gardener. Frequently the ad- mission, at a particular spot, of a mere streak of light enlivens a whole scene, and excites the highest admiration. Sun- shine through trees, when the orb itself LAWN 339 LAN ee ee is concealed, and the rays are pene- trating, a thin shower falling among them, produces at times delightful ef- fects. “‘ The variety of green tints is very great, and their disposition of import- ance. Green is a mixture of blue and yellow, and the predominance of either must be studied. A different suit of colours appears in the autumn, the yel- low prevailing, but mixed with red in- stead of blue, which seems to disappear from the tints of autumn. Some trees change colour early, as the horse-chest- nut; others late, as the beech and oak. ‘Advantage should be taken of this, and trees arranged accordingly. Evergreens should generally be so disposed as to form amass when other trees are naked ; but, in'some situations, single pines and firs, if room be given to them, produce a fine effect. ‘¢ When a house is to be built where trees already abound, difficulties will occur in choosing a site. It is danger- ous to cut down trees before the build- ing has been erected; and yet effects may not be brought out, so as to assist in the choice, without thinning. It is also difficult to conduct roads where trees stand thickly ; in such a case the landscape-gardener should proceed with great caution, removing first such trees as are not in themselves worthy of a lace. ‘“*The disposition of water, where sheets of it are to be interspersed with trees and shrubs, has a fine effect in certain situations when managed with judgment. But we cannot teach judg- ment any more than taste, both being gifts of nature. ‘© Of all things connected with land- scape-gardening, buildings are often most offensive; and we find the gross- est defects of taste frequently displayed both in their style and position. Many persons are apt to associate external nature with the state of society in time long past. This is an error that has led to many trespasses against nature’s rule. A man will build a castle be- cause the situation he fixed for it isa commanding one, and would have an- swered all the purposes of defence in a rude state of society. His taste leads him into expense, and to the sacrifice of convenience and comfort. The adop- tion of former styles shows taste in some instances; but we rather think it an indication of want of invention. The country is covered with new residences in the Elizabethan style; and there is a sameness that is rather tiresome, and far from being so picturesque as the castellated, with all its modern incon- gruities. ‘<< Dwelling-houses should be arranged for comfort, and, where means are at command, also for elegance and gran- deur, both internally and externally. <¢ The ruins of ancient buildings pro- duce a most pleasing effect, and they ought to be preserved ; but it would be preposterous in our day to build that which is felt to be impressive only when in a state of ruin. This is a sub- ject not altogether separated from land- scape gardening. ‘¢ When a professor finds buildings in his way, it is his business either to hide them or to exhibit them to the best ad- vantage.??— Gard. Chron. Under this general head it would be misplaced to enter more fully into de- tails; for these will be found, under their appropriate titles, in other \pages, and chiefly borrowed from Mr. Whate- ley, who has published more correct views upon the art of tastefully arrang- ing grounds than any man who has ever written upon the subject. A taste for landscape-gardening, like that for the higher order of painting, sculpturé and other fine arts, is the slow product of wealth and easy leisure, and is distinct from a love of flowers evinced alike by the young and the aged, the intellectual and the illiterate. In the United States, as might be ex- pected in a new country, the mass are too busily engaged in the every day cares of life to devote attention to such objects—but few comparatively, “the architects of their own fortunes,?? have acquired the means to indulge in luxu- rious expenditures. We are, however, acquiring taste on this and kindred sub- jects, and with the increasing wealth, ‘the general education and superior in- telligence which characterize the Ame- rican people, there can be no doubt that long before we can be called an old nation, our tastes will have been refined, and our capacity to appreciate the beautiful largely developed. Al- ready we have evidence of ‘‘ the march of improvement,” as exhibited in the pretty cottages, with their decorated grounds, around our towns and cities; LAN 340 LAU —— an onward step towards that which in portions of Europe, especially in Eng- Jand, gives such charm to the country, and to country life. Those who wish to consult works on Landscape Gardening and Rural Archi- tecture, almost indivisible, are referred to Loudon’s ‘Encyclopedia of Cottage, Farm and Villa Architecture,?? Lou- don’s “‘Suburban Gardener,”? Downing’s ‘* Landscape Gardening,’? Downing’s *< Cottage Residences,”’ &c. LANTANA. Twenty-nine species. Stove evergreenshrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam. LARIX. Larch. Two species, and many varieties. Hardy conifere. Seed. Light soil on a dry sub-soil. See Coni- fer@. LARKSPUR. Delphinium. Propagation and Culture.—The an- nual sorts and varieties are sown an- nually in September or October, or early in spring, in patches where the plants are to flower—for they do not succeed by transplantation—observing, that those of the autumn sowing grow stronger, flower earlier, and the flowers are generally larger and more durable than the spring-sown plants. It is, however, proper to sow some in spring, in February or March, to continue a Jonger succession of bloom. «‘ Dig with a trowel small patches, about nine inches diameter, in different parts of the borders towards the middle, as also in the fronts of the shrubbery clumps; and in each such patch sow eight, ten, or twelve seeds a quarter of an inch deep; and when the plants are an inch or two high, thin those of the unbranched sorts to about six or eight in each patch, and of the branched kinds to three or four in each place, which is all the culture they require. But when intended to show in beds by themselves, they are commonly sown in drills, forming them lengthwise, the beds a foot asunder, and half an inch deep. The unbranched kinds are the best adapted for this mode of culture. «¢ The perennial sorts are also raised plentifully from seeds sown in autumn or spring, in a bed or border of com- mon earth, for transplantation when the plants come up. Hand-weed them occasionally, and thin them to three or four inches distance, to remain till Oc- tober or November; then plant them out where they are to remain to flower. Their roots will endure many years.?? — Abercrombie. : LARREA. Two species. house evergreen shrubs. Loam, peat, and sand. LASER-WORT. Thapsia laserpetit. LASIANDRA. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam, peat and sand. LASIOPETALUM. Two species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. LASIOSPERMUM. _ Five species. Hardy evergreen trailers. Cuttings. Sandy loam. LASTHENIA. Two species. Har- dy annuals. Seeds sown in autumn. Common soil. LATANIA. Three species. Stove palms. Seed. Rich loam, abundantly watered. — : LATERALS, or side shoots, are those which spring from the sides of the main branches, and are thus de- scribed in contradistinction to the ter- minal or leading shoots of the branches. The laterals on the ]ower branches, like those branches themselves, are usually longer as they approach the base of the tree, because they extend to obtain the benefit of the light kept from them by the branches above. If unable thus to extend, as in the case of inner trees of those planted in clumps, the laterals die, and occasion the denudation of their trunks. If the terminal shoot be cut away, the laterals increase more in length, not only because more sap is thus afforded them, but because an ex- tra effort is made to advance into the desired degree of light. LATHYRUS. Fifty-four species. Chiefly hardy perennial climbers, among which is the Everlasting Sweet Pea: but many are annuals. Seed. Com- mon soil. ' LAUREL, Laurus. LAUREL CHERRY. Cerasus lau- T0-cerasus. LAURESTINUS. Viburnum tinus. LAURUS. Twenty-five species. Hardy, green-house and stove, some evergreen, others deciduous. This ge- nus includes the laurel, bay, benzoin, and sassafras trees. Layers and cut- tings. ‘Sandy loam. Pruning .—The best month for prun- ing the common laurel, and probably the whole of the evergreens of this genus, is April. : Green- Cuttings. LAV 341 LAW he _ LAVANDULA. Lavender. Ten spe- cies. Hardy and half-hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Light gravelly loam. LZ. Spica. Common Lavender. Soil and Situation.—A poor and light soil is best suited to this plant, being in such, more fragrant, longer lived, and more capable of enduring severe weather. In rich or moist soils it _ grows luxuriantly, but is in general destroyed during the winter. The situation cannot be too open. Time and Mode of Planting.—It is propagated by slips and cuttings of the current year’s shoots, planted in May and June, as well as by cuttings of those which are a year old; to be planted in March, April, and early May. Both slips and cuttings must be from five to seven inches in length, which, after being stripped to half their length of the lower leaves, are to be planted to that depth either in a shady border, or in any compartment, to have the shade of a mat during mid-day until they have taken root, in rows six inches apart each way. Water must be given in moderate quantity every evening until thus established. Having attained sufficient strength, they may be moved to their final sta- tions in September or October, which is the season to be preferred, or they may be left until the succeeding spring. If it is grown in considerable quantity for medicinal purposes, which is the only claim it has for a place in the herbary, it must be planted in rows two feet apart each way, otherwise only detached plants are inserted along the borders. The only after-culture re- quired is the occasional employment of the hoe, the decayed spikes and branch- es being removed in autumn, and the surface gently stirred with the spade in the spring. y The flowers are ready for gathering, either to dry or for distillation, in July or the end of June. LAVATERA. Twenty-five species. Some hardy herbaceous, increased by seed and division, in common soil; and the annuals and biennials may be spring-sown in the same. The green- house and half-hardy are propagated by ripe cuttings in sandy Joam. LAVENDER. Lavandula. LAVENDER COTTON. Santolina. LAVRADIA montana. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. and sand. LAW RELATING TO GARDENS. The following exposition of existing Jaws in Great Britain may as a matter of curiosity interest the American read- er. Here where each state has its own peculiar enactments, even a synopsis of them would be too voluminous for our pages. Landlord and Tenant.—Lord Kenyon was of opinion that market gardeners and nurserymen may remove the green- houses and hot-houses which they have erected on the land of which they are tenants, even without an agreement; but this is doubtful; they may, how- ever, remove trees, or such as are likely to become so, in the necessary course of their trade. Ifit were other- wise, the very object of their holding would be defeated. (Penton v. Robart, 2 East, 90.) But the outgoing tenant of a garden must not at the end of his term plough up strawberry-beds in full- bearing, which when he entered he bought of a former tenant; although it is the general practice to appraise and pay for these plants as between out- going and incoming tenants.—For such conduct is malicious, and not in the due course of business. (Wetherell v. Howell, 1 Campbell, 227.) Soa tenant (not a gardener by trade) must not re- move a box edging planted on ground rented by him of another. Neither is he entitled, says Mr. Justice Littledale, (unless by special agreement,) to re- move flowers which he had planted. Loam, peat (Empson v. Soden, 4 Barn. and Adolph. . 655.) And a similar decision has de- termined that a farmer who raises young fruit trees on the land he hires, for fill- ing up an orchard upon the premises, is not entitled to sell those young trees; but it is otherwise of a nurseryman by trade. (Wyndham v. Way, 4 Taunton, 316.) Even if nurserymen are entitled, without a special agreement, to remove the hot-houses they have erected upon their landlord’s land, which is very doubtful, that right does not extend in every instance to other tenants. Thus, a tenant was adjudged not entitled to remove a conservatory erected by him- self on a brick foundation, attached to a dwelling-house, and communicating with it by windows and a door, and by a flue passing into the parlour chimney. LAW 342 LAW fs —_@—— (Buckland v. Butterfield, 2 Brod. and Bing. 54.) A tenant is liable to pay for the waste if he cuts down any fruit trees in the garden or orchard he holds, but not if they are not growing within the garden or orchard. (Coke’s Litt. 53, a.) Buthe may take away a wood- en shed which he had built on brick- work, and posts and rails he had put up. (Fitzherbert v. Shaw, 1 H. Black- stone, 259.) Law Protecting Gardens.—Gardens were not sufficiently protected by law until the year 1828, when the statute 7 & 8 Geo. IV. c. 29 was passed. Section 38 of this statute enacts that to steal or cut, brake, root up, or other- wise destroy, or damage, with intent to steal, the whole or any part of any tree, sapling, or shrub, or any underwood, above the value of ll. respectively growing in any park, pleasure-ground, garden, orchard or avenue, or in any ground adjoining or belonging to any dwelling-house, or above the value of 5. in any other situation, is felony, and punishable as simple larceny. By section 39, if the injury to the trees, shrubs, &c., amounts to less than 1/,, but to 1s. at the least, then sum- mary punishmeut may be inflicted by a justice of the peace. A fine may be imposed not exceeding 5/. above the injury done, upon the first conviction; by imprisonment with hard labour, not exceeding twelve months, upon a se- cond conviction, and, if the conviction take place before two justices of the peace, by public or private whipping ; and the third offence, after two previous convictions, is felony, punishable as simple larceny. By sections 40, 41, and 43, to steal, or to cut, break, or throw down, with intent to steal, any part of any live or dead fence, or any wooden post, pale, or rail, set up or used as a fence, or any stile or gate, or any part thereof; or to have possession of the whole or any part of any sapling or shrub, or any underwood, or any part of any live or dead fence, or any post, pale, rail, stile or gate, or any part thereof respective- ly, of the value of 2s., without satisfac- torily accounting for that possession ; and to steal, or destroy, or damage with intent to steal, any cultivated root or plant used for the food of man or beast, or for medicine or distilling, or dyeing, or for or in the course of manufacture, growing in any land, open or inclosed, not being a garden, orchard, or nursery- ground, is punishable upon summary conviction by fine, imprisonment with. or without hard Jabour, and by public or private whipping, according to the nature of the offence. So, by section 42, to steal or destroy, or damage with intent to steal, any plant, root, fruit, or vegetable produc- tion, growing in any garden, orchard, nursery-ground, hot-house, or conser- vatory, is, for the first offence, punish- able, upon summary conviction, by im- prisonment with or without hard labour, not exceeding six months, or by fine, not exceeding 20/.; but the second of- fence is felony, punishable as simple larceny. Lastly, by section 44, to steal, or rip, cut, or break with intent to steal, any glass or wood-work belonging to any building whatsoever, or any lead, iron, copper, brass, or other metal, or any utensil or fixture, whether made of me-. tal or other material, respectively fixed to any building, or anything made of metal fixed in any land, being private property, or fora fence to any dwelling- house, garden, or area, or in any square, street, or other place dedicated to pub- lic use or ornament, is felony, punish- able as simple larceny. Spring Guns and Man Traps.—These were formerly permitted by law to be set in woods, gardens, &c., without any restriction. Injuries the most severe, and even death, were inflicted by them, and the legislature, wisely considering that these punishments were visitations far too excessive for stealing, or intend- ing to steal fruit or game, passed the statute 7 & 8 Geo. IV. c. 18. This en- acts that any person who sets or places, or causes to be set or placed, any spring- gun, man-trap, or other engine calcu- lated to destroy human life, or inflict grievous bodily harm, with the intent or whereby the same may destroy or inflict grievous bodily harm upon a trespasser or other person coming in. contact therewith, shall be guilty of a misdemeanor and punishable by fine or imprisonment, or both, at the discretion of the court. The act further provides that persons allowing such guns, traps, or engines already set to continue set, shall be deemed to have set them. ~ But the Act does not extend to any gin * LAW 343 LAW ——_e—— / or trap set to destroy vermin; nor does it forbid the setting of spring-guns, man- traps, &c., in a dwelling-house, from sunset to sunrise. This would justify their being set in any green - house, conservatory, or hot-house, provided it communicated by a door, window or passage with the house in which the proprietor or his servants resided. Tithes Payable on Gardens.—Gardens and orchards are tithable by common law, and tithes in kind are due not only for all herbs, plants, fruits, and seeds usually grown in them, but for grass or grain grown therein. The insignificance of the herb makes no difference as to its liability, for even parsley is tithable. (Bunbury, 10.) Neither does it matter whether the produce be grown for sale or home consumption. (Wéilliamson v. Lonsdale, 1 Daniel, 49.) Neither does the plants being raised for pleasure, or as exotic, at a great expense, and not by the natural powers of the soil and climate, make any difference. fruits and flowers are tithable, (Hetley, 100,) and so are pine apples, melons, and other hot-house plants, because as was observed by Chief Baron Skinner, the tithe of gardens is predial. The notion of artificial heat and soil would exclude almost all the produce of gar- dens; things raised under glasses are raised in an artificial soil, but must all be subject to the same rule. Inocula- tion, to be sure, is a work of art, but art and expense used will not make any difference. Baron Eyre added: ‘* Hot- house plants are certainly not exempt. The general rule is clear, and the in- conveniences attending it are not great ; mutual inconveniences will suggest mu- tual moderation. (Adams v. Waller, Gwillim, 1204.) Bees are tithable for their honey and wax by the tenth mea- sure and the tenth pound. It has been doubted whether the tenth swarm can be demanded, because bees are fere nature, but bees in hives may pay tithe by the hive. (3 Croke, 404.) Nurseries of trees are tithable if the owner dig them up and sell them. (1 Coke, 526, &é!) Ss ; Manures Exempt from Toll.— The statute 52 Geo. III. c. 145, works a general exemption, in favour of agri- culture, (and horticulture too, for the words of the statute are not restrictive to manures used on farms,) to wagons, carts, &c., loaded with manure, as well So all as those going empty.—Rez. v. Adams, 6M. &S. 52. Also, the statute 3 Geo. IV. c. 126, s. 32, enacts that no toll shall be taken for any horse or other cattle or carriage, employed in carrying or having been employed in carrying on the same day any dung, soil, compost, or manure for improving lands. The word ‘* manure”? includes bone-dust, and, it seems, bones before they are crushed. Pratt v. Brown, 8 Car. & P. 244. But the statute 4 Geo. IV. c. 95, s. 23, declares that nothing in the 3 Geo. IV. c. 126, shall work any such exemption to ma- nure, &c., if a toll is expressedly im- posed upon such matters by any local Act or Acts. Where wagons, &c., laden with manure are exempt from toll, such wagons, &c., in going for it shall be exempted also.—3 Geo. IV. c. 126.5. 26. But inthe latter case the driver, upon receiving a ticket, shall pay the toll, to be repaid when he returns with his wagon, &c., laden. Section 28, also, provides that any basket, empty sack, or spade, &c., necessary for load- ing, if the loading is substantially ma- nure for land, shal! not renderthe wagon &c., liable to toll. So, a wagon re- turning from London loaded with dung is not liable to be weighed and charged for over-weight, under 13 Geo. III. c. 84, or 14 Geo. III. c. 82, by carrying home two empty bottles and an empty sack, in which the produce of husbandry had been brought from ‘the country the same day.—Chambers v. Eaves, 2 Camp. 393. Lime has been adjudged not exempt from toll, although the words of the Act were ‘‘anything whatsoever used | in the manuring of land,” (Rea v. Gough, 2 Chit. 655,) nor yet within the exception of the Turnpike Act, 31 Geo. Il.—(Anon. Lofft. 324.) Lime, how- ever, is sometimes exempted, as by the local Act 3 & 4 Vict. c. 51. LAWN is a surface of turf in the vicinity of the house, requiring to be kept smooth by the regular application of the roller and scythe. When first constructed, after the ground has been dug over as level as may be, it must be rolled, the hollows filled up, and this repeated until a level surface of earth is obtained. It must then be slightly pointed over with a fork, and the turf laid, or the grass seed sown. See LAW Turfing. If seed be employed, the fol- lowing is a good selection, and in the requisite proportions for an acre. The best season for sowing is during moist weather in March. On 1 acre of new Jawn, sow the fol- | lowing grass seeds: Festuca durius- cula, 43 lbs.; Avena flavescens, 12 lb.; Lollium perenne, 30 lbs.; Poa nemoralis, 3 lbs.; P. sempervivens, 2 lbs.; P. tri- vialis, 23 lbs.; Trifolium repens, 11 Ibs., and T. minus, 3 lbs. This is a sufficient quantity to cover the ground closely in a short time. In very dry weather all lawns should be watered, and if a little guano and muriate of lime be dissolved in the water it will keep the surface gently moist even in dry weather. A good kind of grass for improving a lawn, is Crested Dogstail; it may be sown in March. Bush-harrow the lawn in order to stir up the soil a little for the seed, which should be sown broad- | cast when the ground is damp, passing a garden roller over it when the ground becomes sufficiently dry.— Gard. Chron. LAWN RAKE, See article Turf. LAWSONIA. Two species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. ! LAXMANNIA gracile. Green- house herbaceous. Division. Loam | and peat. LAYER. The following excellent combination of practice and science is from Dr. Lindley’s Theory of Horticul- ture :— «¢ A layer is a branch bent into the earth, and half cut through at the bend, ! the free portion of the wound being called ‘a tongue.’ It is, in fact, a cut- ting only partially separated from its parent. The object of the gardener is to induce the Jayer to emit roots into the earth at the tongue. With this view he twists the shoot half round, so as to injure the wood-vessels ; he heads it back, so that only a bud or two ap- | pears above ground, and when much nicety is requisite, he places a handful of silver sand round the tongued part; then pressing the earth down with his foot, so as to secure the layer, he Jeaves it without further care. The intention of both tongueing and twisting is to pre- vent the return of sap from the layer | into the main stem, while a small quan- tity is allowed to rise out of the latter inte the former ; the effect of this being ' 344 the earth surrounding 'the branch | fices. LEA to compel the returning sap to organize itself externally as roots, instead of passing downwards below the bark as wood. The bending back is to assist in this object by preventing the expend- iture of sap in the formation or rather completion of leaves, and the silver sand is to secure the drainage so neces- sary to cuttings. ‘¢In most cases, this is sufficient ; but it must be obvious, that the exact man- ner in which the layering is effected is unimportant, and that it may be varied according to circumstances. Thus, Mr. James Munro describes a_ successful method of layering brittle-branched plants by simply slitting the shoot at the bend, and inserting a stone at that place ; (Gardener’s Magazine, ix. 302 5) and Mr. Knight found that, in cases of dificult rooting, the process is facili- tated by ringing the shoot just below the tongue about midsummer when the leaves upon the layers had acquired their full growth; (Hort. Trans. i. 256;) by which means he prevented the passage of the returning sap further downwards than the point intended for the emission of roots. It will sometimes happen that a branch of a plant cannot be conve- niently bent downwards into the earth ; in such cases, the Fig. 97. earth may be ele- vated to the branch by various contrivances, as is commonly done by the Chinese. When this is done, no other care is necessary than that required for lay- ers, except to keep steadily moist.”> See Fig. 97. LEADWORT. Plumbago. LEATHERWOOD. Dirca. LEAVES are highly vascular organs, in which are performed some of the most important functions of a plant. They are very general, but not ab- solutely necessary organs, since the branches sometimes perform their of- Such plants, however, as na- turally possess them, are destroyed or greatly injured by being deprived of them. The duration of a leaf is in general but for a year, though in some plants Be | LEA 345 LEA ees they survive for twice or thrice that period. These organs are generally of agreen colour. Light seems to have a powerful influence in causing this, since if kept in the dark they become of a pale yellow or even white hue, un- less uncombined hydrogen is present, in which case they retain their verdure though light be absent. Hence their etiolation would seem to arise from their being unable to obtain this gas under ordinary circumstances, except when light is present. Now the only source from which they can obtain hy- drogen, is by deoomposing water; and how light assists in the decomposition, may perhaps be explained by the dis- oxygenizing power with which it is gifted. The violet rays of the spectrum have this power in the greatest degree; and Sennebier has ascertained by ex- periment, that those rays have the greatest influence in producing the green colour of plants. When leaves are of any other hue than green, they are said to be coloured. This variegation is often considered to -be a symptom either of tenderness or debility, and it is certain, when the leaves of a plant become generally white that that individual is seldom long-lived. Mr. Knight, however, has demonstrated that variegation is not a certain indication of a deficiency of hardihood. The function of the leaves appear to be a combination of those of the lungs and stomach of animals; they not only modify the food brought to them from the roots, so as to fit it for increasing the size of the parent plant, but they also absorb nourishment from the atmo- sphere. The sap, after elaboration in these organs, differs in every plant, though as far as experiments have been tried, it appears to be nearly the same in all vegetables when it first arrives to them. The power ofa leaf to generate sap is in proportion to its area of sur- face, exposure to the light, and conge- nial situation. Evergreens transpire less moisture than deciduous plants, which would lead to the expectation that they are more capable of living in dry situations, which in general is really the case. The matter transpired by a healthy plant is nearly pure water, 5.000 grains of it never containing more than one grain of solid matter, and this is consti- tuted of resinous and gummy matter, with carbonate and sulphate of lime. It appears to be nearly the same in all plants. The quantity varies, however, in every species, probably in every in- dividual, and is greatly influenced by the quantity of water applied to the roots. The transpiration of plants decreases with that of the temperature to which they are exposed, as well as with the period of their growth. This explains why the gardener finds that his plants do not require so much water in cold weather, nor during the time that elapses between the fall of their blos- soms and the ripening of their seed. During this period they do not transpire more than one-half so much as during the period preceding and attending upon their blooming. The transpiration takes place from the upper surface of the leaves; and if these gradually decay and fall, the growth of the plant ceases until fresh leaves are produced. Hence arises the benefit which plants derive in rooms, greenhouses, and other confined in- closures, from keeping those surfaces cleansed with the sponge and syringe. Some plants are particularly sensitive to injury from any check to their tran- Spiration, among which are the tea- scented roses; and it thence arises that they cannot now be cultivated in nur- sery-gardens near London, where they once flourished when that metropolis was less extensive. It must be remembered, however, in using the sponge and syringe, that the under side of leaves is an absorbing surface, benefited by being kept clean, and by the application of moisture. The kidney bean, sunflower, cabbage and spinach, absorb moisture equally by their under and upper surfaces ; the cockscomb, purple-leaved amaranth, heliotrope, lilac, and balm, absorb most freely by their upper surfaces ; and the vine, pear, cherry, apricot, walnut, mulberry, and rose, absorb most by their under surfaces. The transpiration from the leaves of plants is effected through pores or stro- mates, varying in number and size in every species, but being usually either largest or most numerous in plants in- habiting moist or shady localities. This is a wise provision, for such plants, con- sequently, have an abundant supply of LEA 346 LEE —~—— = moist food to their roots, requiring a competent provision for its elaboration and reduction from superfluous water. Those plants which are natives of sandy exposed soils, have, on the other hand, either fewer or smaller stromates. The drier the air the greater is the amount of moisture transpired; and this becomes so excessive, if it be also promoted by a high temperature, that plants in hot-houses, where it has oc- curred, often dry up as if burned. The justly lamented Mr. Daniell has well illustrated this, by showing that if the temperature of a hot-house be raised only five degrees, viz., from 75° to 80°, whilst the air within it retains the same degree of moisture, a plant that in the lower temperature exhaled 57 grains of moisture, would in the higher tempera- ture exhale 120 grains in the same space of time. Plants, however, like animals, can bear a higher tempera- ture in dry air than they can in air .charged with vapour; animals are scald- ed in the latter, if the temperature is very elevated, and plants die under similar circumstances as if boiled. MM. Edwards and Collin found kidney beans sustained no injury when the air was dry at a temperature of 1679, but they died in a few minutes if the air was moist. Other plants under similar circum- stances would perish, probably, at a much lower temperature; and the fact affords a warning to the gardener to have the atmosphere in his stoves very dry, whenever he wishes to elevate their temperature for the destruction of insects, or other purposes. Leaves have the power of absorbing moisture as/ well as of emitting it, which power of absorption they principally enjoy during the night. During the day leaves also absorb carbonic acid gas, which they decom- pose, retaining its carbon and emitting the greatest part of the oxygen that enters into its composition. In the night this operation is in a certain mea- sure reversed, a small quantity of oxygen being absorbed from the atmosphere, and a yet smaller proportion of car- bonic acid emitted. Carbonic acid gas in small propor- tions is essential to the existence of leaves, yet it only benefits them when present in quantities not exceeding one twelfth of the bulk of the atmosphere in which they are vegetating, though one twenty-fifth is a still more favour- able proportion ; and as hot-beds, heated by fermenting matters, rapidly have the air within their frames contaminated to a much greater extent than the propor- tions above named, thence arises the injury to the plants they contain from a too long neglected ventilation. The leaves turn yellow from the excess of acid, which they are unable to digest, and which consequently effects that change of colour which also occurs in autumn, and which will be more fully considered when the decay of plants is detailed. Whatever promotes an over-luxuriant production of leaf-buds, proportionately diminishes the production of flower- buds, and the reason is obvious. A luxuriant foliage is ever attendant upon an over-abundant supply of moist nou- rishment to the roots, the consequent amount of sap generated is large, re- quiring a proportionately increased sur- face of leaf for its elaboration, and for the transpiration of the superfluous moisture; and as the bud becomes a branch or a root accordingly as circum- stances require, so does it produce, as may be necessary for the plant’s health, either leaves or flowers.—Principles of Gardening. LEBECKIA. Six species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Seeds and cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. LEBRETONIA. Pavonia. LECHENAULTIA. Two species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. LECYTHIS. Six species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. San- dy loam. LEDON GUM. Cistus ledon. LEDUM. Three species. Hardy evergreen shrubs. Layers. Bog earth. LEE-CHEE. Euphoria lichi. LEEK. Allium porrum. The Leek is a hardy biennial, for although it at- tains perfection in size and for culinary - purposes the first year, it does not run to seed until the second, the perfecting of which it also often survives. The whole plant is eaten, being em- ployed in soups, &c., and is by some persons boiled and eaten with meat. Varieties.—There are four varieties ; the Musselburgh, and the large London Leek, which are by far the best; the LEI 347 LEO aa Scotch or Flag, which is larger and hardier; and the Flanders. Time and Mode of Sowing.—lIt is raised solely from seed, which may be sown at any time during the spring. These sowings are performed in ge- neral broadcast and raked in, though some gardeners employ drills, the plants to remain after thinning; the Leek, however, is so much benefitted by transplanting as obviously to point out the error of this practice. Cultivation.—When the plants are three or four inches in height, in eight or ten weeks after sowing, they must be weeded, hoed, and thinned, where growing too close, to two or three inch- es apart; water also being given, in dry weather, will, with the above treat- ment, strengthen and forward them for transplanting in another month, or when six or eight inches high. They must be taken away regularly from the seed bed; the ground being well wa- tered previously, if not soft and easily yielding. When thinned out they may be left to remain in the seed bed six _ inches asunder, as they do not grow so large as the transplanted ones, which must be set by the dibble in rows ten inches apart, and eight in the lines, being inserted nearly down to the leaves, that the neck, by being covered with the earth, may be blanched; wa- ter in abundance must be given at the time of planting, and the long weak leaves shortened, but the roots left as uninjured as possible. The bed is hoed over occasionally with advantage, as well to kill the weeds as to loosen the soil. By this treatment, and by cutting off the tops of the leaves about once a month, as new ones are produced, the neck swells to a much larger size. The several sowings above directed will yield a supply from August until the following May, when they advance to seed. A portion should be always taken up and laid in sand previous to the ground being locked up by contin- ued frost, but they will not keep many days in this situation. LEIANTHUS WNigrescens. Green- house biennial. Seed. Light richloam. LEIMANTHIUM. Three species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Wet peat soil. LEMA asparag?. The Asparagus Beetle, by some naturalists called Cri- oceris asparagi is thus described by Mr. | Curtis :-— ‘¢ The larve which abound from June to September, not only eat off all the leaves, but even gnaw the rind from the stem of the plants. “The eggs are oval, and fixed on the plants by one of their ends, one being sometimes attached to the end of another. The larve are hatched in a little time; they are short, thick, and fleshy, covered with hairs, wrinkled, ash-coloured, with black head and legs; they move very slowly, and when alarmed emit a blackish fluid from their mouth. ‘When full grown, the larve go in- to the ground, where they contract a thick cocoon, in which they assume the pupa state. In a short time the per- fect insect appears. Itis about a quar- ter of an inch long, of a blue black colour, with cream coloured or yellow spots on the wing cases, and a red. thorax. To lessen the ravages of the insect, little more can be done than to collect them by hand-picking or by shaking them into a net. As many beetles, however, may be found at the time the Asparagus is cut, we recom- mend that all these should be destroyed before they have an opportunity of de- positing their eggs.??—Gard. Chron. LEONOTIS. Four species. L. in- termedia is a stove evergreen shrub; and two are stove annuals, requiring the usual treatment of tender annuals. Cuttings or seed. Loam and peat. L.. leonurus is a green-house evergreen shrub, requiring the following treat- ment :— “¢ Strike from cuttings in May; keep in a forty-eight pot during the winter ; in the beginning of April put into a pot. thirteen inches in diameter, and place in a forcing frame kept at a tempera- ture varying from 75° to 50°; here re- main for about seven weeks, when remove to the green-house. ‘“‘ After the end of June, force as much as possible by keeping the house shut up during the day, so as to con- centrate all the heat which can be obtained from the sun, but no fire light- ed except during cold nights in Sep- tember and October; 120° is not too great for it, provided it has plenty of water; never suffer the surface of the earth to become dry, and generally) keep about an inch of water in the. ~ LEO 348 LET os pan. The quantity required in hot weather, nearly three gallons daily.”-— Gard. Chron. LEONITOPODIUM helveticum. Hardy herbaceous. Seed or division. Peat. LEONURUS. Eight species, besides varieties. Hardy perennials, biennials, and annuals. Seed. Common soil. -_ LEOPARD’S BANE. Doronicum. LEPANTHES. Two species. Stove epiphytes. Offsets. Damp moss under a bell glass. LEPECHINIA. Hardy herbaceous. Cuttings. Peat and loam. LEPIDAGATHIS cristata. Stove herbaceous. Cuttings. Sandy rich loam. LEPIDIUM sativum. See Cress. LEPTANDRA. Two species. Har- dy herbaceous. Division. Common soil. LEPTANTHUS gramineus. Hardy aquatic. Offsets. Wet peat. LEPTODERMIS lanceolata. Green- house shrub. Cuttings. Loamand peat. LEPTOMERIA. Two species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Loam and peat. LEPTOSIPHON. Five species. Hardy annuals. Seed. Peat. Sow in autumn and in early spring. LEPTOSPERMUM. ‘Twenty-three species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings and seed. Sandy ]oam and peat. LEPTOSTELMA mazimum. Half- hardy herbaceous. Seed and division. Light rich loam. LEPTOTES bicolor. Stove epiphyte. Division. Moss and potsherds. LESPEDEZA. ‘Twelve species. Chiefly hardy herbaceous, shrubby, and annual plants. L. cryocarpa is a green- house evergreen shrub, and L. glome- rata a stove twiner. Annuals sow in sheltered peat. Shrubs by cuttings, and herbaceous by division. In sandy eat. i LESSERTIA. Nine species. Green- house anuuals, herbaceous and shrubby plants. Seed or cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. LETHRUS cephalotes. A beetle preying upon the vine by gnawing off LETTUCE. Lactuca sativa. © The Lettuce is a hardy annual, introduced or cultivated in England since 1562, but from what country is unknown. The use of Lettuce, as a, cooling and agreeable salad, is well known ; it is also a useful ingredient in soups. It contains, like the other spe- cies of this genus, a quantity of opium juice, of a milky nature, from which, of late years, medicine has been prepared, under the title of Lactucarium, and which can be administered with effect Two species. |in cases where opium is inadmissible. ‘¢ The varieties are very numerous. Those herein enumerated have been selected from the many which have come under our observation, and will be found to suit the various seasons of the year. Some varieties celebrated in Europe, are of little value here, soon shooting to seed under our hot sun. “The Earty CappacE Letruceis the earliest; it produces a moderately sized and very firm head and is known among the Philadelphia market gardeners as the ‘ butter salad.?. ‘¢ The Roya CaspacEe LETTUCE is a very large variety, dark green, with firm head, and withstands the sun bet- ter than the preceding variety, not rapidly shooting to seed. << The PALESTINE is a curiously spot- ted variety, produces a firm head, and of fair size. ‘¢ The Iypra is a very fine kind, pro- duces large hard heads, leaves wrinkled, stands the sun remarkably well. ‘‘The PHILADELPHIA CABBAGE Tre- sembles the “* Royal,?? and is in all re- spects a desirable variety. <¢ The Earty CuRLED does not head; is used principally as ** cut salad.” ‘* The Cos, of which there are several varieties, produce conical formed heads, very succulent and crisp; soon run to seed ; should therefore be planted early in the spring. ‘“*The Brown DutcH somewhat re- sembles the early cabbage, the leaves tinged with brown. ‘¢ Lettuce delights in a deep, rich soil, not too heavy or humid. For early spring use sow about the middle of au- its young shoots. It iscommon in Hun-|tumn, in some sheltered situation, as gary, but I do not know that it has been |the plants, or a portion of them, are to observed in England. remain there during the winter, lightly LETTSOMIA tomentosa. Stove |covered with straw or cedar brush to evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings. Loam |protect them from extreme cold. Near and peat. : the close of autumn a planting may be LET 349 LIB ——_o—— made, as directed for ‘* Early York| prematurely, cannot be depended upon. Cabbage,’? when intended to stand the winter, (which see,) or they may be planted with the cabbage alternately. Early Cabbage, Brown Dutch and Pa- lestine are better suited for planting at this season. ‘¢ Part of those which remain in the seed-bed during the winter, should be transplanted as early in the spring as the ground admits of being worked. The remainder may be set out subse- quently, which will ensure a more re- gular supply. To secure an uninter- rupted succession, frequent sowings should be made during the early part of summer, thus :—have the ground deep- ly dug and raked fine ; stretch a line to the extent intended to be planted, along which drop the seed thinly, and rake it in. When the plants are. an inch or two ‘in height, thin them toa foot apart, and give frequent hoeings, which will facilitate their growth. In the earlier sowings those thinned out may be transplanted, and will pro- duce good heads; but when the wea- ther has become warm and dry they will not succeed well; it is therefore better to sow over as much ground as will produce the quantity required. For the earlier sowings all varieties will an- swer; for the latter ones when the sea- son is advanced and the heat greater, the India and Royal Cabbage are better sorts. ‘«¢During the heat ofsummer the heads will be but poor, unless the season be very cool and humid. Sown about the close of summer and early in autumn, they will do well, as the weather will have become cool before they reach maturity. When sown in autumn for spring heading, it is advisable to take some of the earliest and latest. «‘ Very good Lettuce may be had in the early part of winter, if planted about the middle of autumn, in frames in a sheltered situation, covering the frames with glass or boards, when the weather becomes cool ; in mild weather, giving plenty of air; where boards are used removing them to admit light..°—Rural Reg. To obtain Seed.—To produce seed some of the finest and most perfect plants of each variety that have sur- vived the winter, or from the forwardest sowing of the year, should be selected. The seed from any that have run up All other plants must be removed from their neighbourhood, themselves being left at least a foot apart; neither is it allowable for two varieties to flower near each other, or only mongrel varie- ties will be obtained. Each stem is ad- vantageously attached toa stake as a support in tempestuous weather. It is to be observed, that the branches must be gathered as the seed ripens upon them, and not left until the whole is ready, as some will ripen two or three weeks before others, and consequently, the first and best seed will be shed and lost. It must be particularly well dried before it is beaten out and stored. Lettuce seed is considered to be best the second year; but when three years old, it refuses to vegetate. LETTUCE FLY. See Anthomyia. LEUCADENDRON. Thirty-nine species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. LEUCOCORYNE. Three species. Half-hardy bulbs. Seed and offsets. Sandy loam. LEUCOJUM. Snow-flake. Three spe- cies. Hardy bulbs. Offsets. Sandy loam. LEUCOPOGON. . Fifteen species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. : LEUCOSPERNUM. Fifteen species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Sandy turfy loam. They re- quire much watering. LEUCOSTEMMA vestitum. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat, and sandy loam. LEUZEA. Five species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed and division. Com- mon soil. LEWISIA rediviva. ceous. Division and seed. loam and chalk. E LEYCESTRIA formosa. Hardy ever- green shrub. Cuttings and seed. Sandy loam. LLEYSSERA. Four species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and sandy loam. LIATRIS. Twenty species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Sandy loam and peat. Take up and give the shelter of a frame during winter. LIBANOTIS athamantoides. Wardy herbaceous. Seed. Calcareous sandy loam. LIBERTIA formosa. Half-hardy herbaceous. Division. Loam and peat, Hardy herba- Sandy LIC 350 LIL a - LICHTENSTEINIA. Two species. Green-house herbaceous. Seed. Sandy loam. LICUALA. Two species. alms. Seed. Sandy loam. LIDBECKIA. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat, and a little loam. LIGATURES, twisted very tightly round the smal branches of trees, and the stems of plants, to check the return of their sap, and thus promote their fruitfulness, and the size of the fruit, are much to be preferred to ringing, or other removals of the bark, which cause wounds and canker. Ligatures should be removed as soon as the fruit is rip- ened. LIGHT has a powerful influence over the health and life of a plant, from the moment its leaves pierce through the surface of the soil. If absent, they be- come yellow, or even white, unless uncombined hydrogen be present, in which case they retain their verdure. Sir H. Davy excluded a cos lettuce from the light. In six days it was ren- dered very pale, and at the end of an- other week it was quite white; the growth of the plant was checked, and the analysis of its leaves showed that they contained more carbonic acid and water, but less hydrogen and residual carbon than an equal weight of green leaves. It deserves notice that it has been proved by the experiments of Dr. Hope and others, that light from artificial sources may be concentrated so as to enable plants to absorb oxygen, and perfect: those elaborations on which their green colour depends; and the light of the moon has a similar influence. A similar concentrated light will make the Pimpernel and other flowers, which close until sunrise, open their petals, and rouse from their rest; a fact, which gives another reason why plants in rooms frequented at night be- come weak and exhausted sooner than those which then remain, as nature dic- tates, unexcited by light. A deficiency of light decreases the decomposing power of the leaves. For this reason the best glass should al- ways be employed in the sashes of the hot-house, conservatory, and other structures of the forcing department, But the benefit sought for is frustrated, if that glass be not constantly well Stove cleansed. The best glass, if dirty, al- lows fewer rays of light to pass through than inferior glass if kept bright. Solar light is essential to the ripening of all fruit; it will not ripen in the dark ; and the greater the light’s intensity and the longer its daily endurance, the sweeter and the higher is the fruit’s flavour. No fruits are so luscious as those grown within the tropics, and the fruits of the temperate zone are ex- cellent in proportion to the brightness of its seasons. That light is essential in causing the colour of the leaves and other parts of plants, has been noticed already ; and it aids the ripening pro- cess of fruit in a similar manner, to convert their acid and mucilaginous constituents into sugar: much carbon and hydrogen have to be got rid of; and this is effected, if light be admitted, by the evolution of carbonic acid and watery vapour. How light operates in promoting this and other decomposi- tions, which are effected by the vege- table organs, is at present a mystery ; but so it is; and the gardener promotes its access as much as lies within his power, by removing overshadowing leaves, by employing the best glass in his hot-houses, and by having their in- terior whitened ; for white surfaces re- flect all the rays of light back upon the objects those surfaces inclose. Almost every flower has a particular degree of light requisite for its full ex- pansion. The blossoms of the pea, and other papilionaceous plants, spread out their wings in fine weather to admit the solar rays, and again close them at the approach of night. Plants requiring powerful stimulants, do not expand their flowers until noon; whilst some would be destroyed if compelled to open in the meridian sun. Of such is the night- blooming cereus, the flowers of which speedily droop, even if exposed to the blaze of light attendant on Indian fes- tivities —Princ. of Gardening. LIGHTFOOTIA. Three species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Loam and peat. LIGUSTRUM. Privet. Three spe- cies, and more varieties of L. vulgare. Hardy evergreen and deciduous shrubs. Cuttings. Common soil. The evergreen varieties of L. vulgare make a good fence. See Hedges. . LILACS. Syringa vulgaris and Persica.- Of these very hardy shrubs LIL 351 LIL —_—4>—— there are many varieties; the white, red, and blue-flowered; and of the Persica, also the parsley-leafed and the sage-leafed. They may be raised from suckers, layers, cuttings, and seed; the sowing and planting may be made dur- ing the autumn in any common soil. LILIUM. Lily. Thirty-five species, including the common white lily (L. can- didum), martagon (L. martagon), tiger (L. tigrinum), orange (L. aurantium), bulb-bearing (L. bulbiferum), and their varieties. Besides those already men- tioned, the following are especially worthy of cultivation :— - Bronsiartii. — longiflorum. Eximium. Japonicum longiflorum. Lancifolium album. punctatum. roseum. Orange. Speciosum rubrum. Superbum pyramidalis. Venustum.. With the exception of L. eximium, which is a green-house bulb, all the others are hardy. Out-door Culture—tThe proper time for planting and transplanting them is in autumn, when their flowers and stalks decay, which is generally in August and September, the roots being then at rest for ashort space of time, though the bulbs taken up at the above season of rest, may be kept out of ground if necessary, till October or November; the white lilies, however, do not succeed, if kept long out of the earth; and all the others succeed best when planted again as soon-as possible. Plant them four or five inches deep, and at good distances from one another. None of the sorts require any par- ticular culture, for they will endure all weathers, so no more is necessary than destroying weeds among their stems by the hoe, and supporting with sticks. They may all remain undisturbed two or three years, or longer; nor, indeed, is it proper to remove these sorts of bulbs oftener, for by remaining, they - flower stronger after the first year. It is, however, proper to take up the bulbs entirely every three or four years. Propagation.— By Offsets.— All the sorts of these roots yield offsets abund- antly every year, which, when greatly wanted, may be taken off annually, in autumn ; otherwise once in two or three years. The small offsets should then be planted in beds a foot asunder, and three deep, to remain’ a year or two; and the large bulbs should be planted again in the borders, &c., singly. By Seed.—This is sometimes prac- tised, but more particularly for the martagons, to obtain more varieties. In antumn, soon after the seed is ripe, sow it in pots or boxes of rich light earth, half an inch deep; place the pots in a sheltered situation all winter, and the plant will appear in the spring ; in April, remove the pots to have only the morn- ing sun all the summer, giving moderate waterings; in August, transplant the bulbs into nursery-beds in flat drills an inch deep, and three or four asunder; but, as the bulbs will be very small, scatter the earth and bulbs together in the drills, and cover them with earth the above depth; and having grown here till August or September following, transplant into another bed, placing them eight or nine inches each way asunder, here to remain to show their first flowers, then transplant them finally. — Abercrombie. Pot-Culture-—The following excel- lent directions, though applicable es- pecially to L. speciosum or lancifolium, are also applicable to others of this genus. They are the practical directions of Mr. Groom, the well-known florist, of Walworth, near London. He says:— ‘To cultivate Lilia in the greatest perfection, they should be removed as rarely as possible, and only when the bulbs become too close; for disturbing them is most injurious to their growth and flowering.” Bulbs from Stems.—To obtain these from L. speciosum, and the practice would, perhaps, succeed with several others, Mr. Groom placed pieces of turfy peat round the stem, with room | for finer peat to be placed next the plant; in this bulbs were very success- fully obtained. : Potting.—‘‘ Grow them in pots of large size, having plenty of drainage, and use peat only, with a little fine sand for the soil. One great point is to keep the bulbs, particularly the largest, at a sufficient depth, to allow room forthe stem-fibres to grow freely. When they require repotting, which should only be performed whilst the bulbs are dormant, LIL 352 LIM —_——e— they should be turned out of the old pots, and the crocks should be carefully removed, so as to avoid injuring the fibres, or even shaking off the earth; the bulbs are then to be repotted ina larger-sized pot, in peat and sand, with good drainage. Raising Varieties—Mr. Groom ob- serves, that ‘‘in hybridizing, care should be always taken to save seed from those flowers which have the best shape; for I believe the form of the future flower is much more dependent on the kind from which the seed is saved than upon that which furnishes the pollen; the pollen generally gives the colour. It is also highly desirable that the flower from which the pollen is taken should be darker than that producing the seed; for I have found in such cases the seed- lings’ have been much more beautiful (being frequently spotted or striped), than where I have reversed the process. I have seen this occur in so marked a manner in the ranunculus, that I have adopted it as a principle, never to take pollen from a lighter coloured flower.’ —Gard. Chron. LILY. Lilium. LILY-HYACINTH. hyacinthus. LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY. Conval- laria majalis. Soil and Situation.—Clayey loam, near water, and where the noonday sun is intercepted by shade, suits it best. Propagation.—Mr. D. Watts com- municated a paper to the Regent?’s Park Gardeners’ Society, in 1845, from which the following are extracts :—‘* Before planting, dig over and well break the ground about nine inches deep, then plant the roots about four inches apart, all over the surface of the ground, giv- ing them a gentle press down with the thumb and finger, and then cover them about four inches thick with the same sort of soil. On forming new plantations of this plant, I select all the flowering buds from my stock of roots, which I plant by themselves, but in the same way as I do the others. If equal quan- tities of each can be had, there will be equal quantities of flowers for two or three successive seasons, after which they should be all taken up, the roots divided, and replanted in the same way. At the time of replanting, it will be requisite to leave a sufficient quantity Scilla Lilia- undisturbed, for the purpose of lifting, for forcing during the winter months. Forcing. — Pot them in thirty-two- sized pots, filled to within three and a half inches of the rim with rich loam, ° upon which the roots are closely placed, -and then covered about two inches in thickness with equal parts of leaf mould and sand; they are then well watered, so. as to settle the mould about the roots; place them on a shelf near the glass, in a moist stove, or forcing-house, the temperature of which may range from 65° to 75°, and take care that the soil does not become dry. When they are so far advanced that the plants show their heads of flowers, remove them into a warm green-house, still placing them near the glass, until as they advance in growth they are withdrawn by degrees into a shaded part of the house, from whence they are removed to the draw- ing room as required, their places to be immediately filled with others, which are similarly treated, and thus an ample succession will be kept up. Care and attention are requisite in lifting and selecting the plants for forcing; they require a minute examination to dis- tinguish those that will flower from those that will not, the only difference being. that the buds of the former are more round and short than those of the latter..°—Florist?s Journ. r LILY-PINK. — Gard. Chron. LOAVING. See Heading. LOBELIA. Eighty-four species. Chiefly hardy and green-house herba- ceous plants. Some, however, are an- nual, and others rgquire the heat of a stove. Herbaceous are propagated by division; shrubby by cuttings; annuals by seed. Sandy loam and peat suit them all. LOBSTER-SHELLS. See Animal Matters. LOCUST-TREE. Hymenea. LODDIGESIA ovalidifolia. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. LOMATIA. Five species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sand and peat. LONCHITES. Two species. Stove ferns. Division. Turfy loam and peat. LONCHOCARPUS. Nine -species. Stove evergreen trees. Young cuttings. Loam and peat. LONGCHAMPSTA capillifolia. Hardy annual. Seed. Common soil. LONDON-PRIDE. Sazifraga um- brosa. LONICERA. Honeysuckle. teen species. and twiners. Cuttings inautumn. Com- mon soil. LOOKING-GLASS TREE. tiera. LOOSESTRIFE. Lysimachia. LOPEZIA. Sixspecies. Hardy an- nuals and green-house biennials. All require to be raised in a hot-bed; the annuals to be removed to a south border, and the others to the green- house. LOPHANTHUS. Five species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division and cuttings. Common soil. LOPHIOLA aurea. Hardy herbace- ous. Division. Damp peat soil. LOPHIRA africana. Stove ever- Eigh- Heri- Hardy deciduous shrubs | green tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. Little water. LOPHOSPERMUM. ‘Three species. Half-hardy evergreen climbers. Cut- tings. Rich light loam. LOPIMIA malacophylla. Stove ever- green shrub. Young euttings. Rich light soil. LOQUAT. Eriobotrya japonica. The following are the best directions we have for its cultivation:— *¢ Light sandy loam, which is na- turally rich, suits the loquat well. Young plants may be purchased of the London nurserymen; but they should be rejected if they have not been graft- ed on the common mespilus germanica, or some other nearly allied genius.’? ‘¢ They may be propagated by seeds or layers; but if so raised, they must be afterwards grafted. They may be plant- ed six or eight feet apart in the house ; but when they become too crowded every alternate plant should be re- moved on small hillocks of earth cor- responding with the size of the plants, . which, as they advance in growth, may, from time to time, have fresh earth added to their roots until the border is filled level. Care must be taken, whilst the plants are young, to make them produce the requisite quantity of branches close to the graft, by shorten- ing the shoots, or by pinching off the tips. ‘¢ The loquat is half-hardy; and it will therefore be necessary to keep a little fire in the house in winter, to pre- vent the frost from injuring the plants. The trees bloom naturally at that sea- son; but in this respect are almost at the command of the gardener. They may be forced into bloom in autumn ; or, by keeping the house very cool in winter, their blooming may be retarded until spring. ‘¢ The temperature, during the grow- ing seasons, may correspond with that which is given to the peach when | forced. ‘¢ When the fruit is gathered, more air should be admitted into the house. In autumn the sashes might be entirely re- moved, for a short time, so long as there is no danger of frost. ** Though a separate house is highly desirable to cultivate the loquat in, it by no means follows that it will not grow and fruit elsewhere. accommodated with the back-wall of a If it can be- LOR 357 LUI es pine or plant-stove, with a border of two or three feet in breadth to growin, it will succeed remarkably well. It is far from being a tender tree, or one difficult to manage, being of a robust, healthy habit, and requiring but little attention. <¢ Some people eat the fruit before it is quite ripe, at which period it has an - agreeable acid flavour; but to obtain a luscious, melting, highly-flavoured fruit, it should hang on the trees until some- what shrivelled. It is probable that the fruit would ripen on the back-wall of some green-house, if it had plenty of light and air; at all events it is worth a trial.°°—Gard. Chron. LORD ANSON’S PEA. Lathyrus magellanicus. LOTE. Zizyphus lotus. LOTUS. Forty species. Mostly hardy and half-hardy annual and peren- nial trailers. Perennials are increased by cuttings; and the annuals by seed, in any light soil. LOUREA. Two species. Stove bi- ennials. Seed. Light rich loam. LOUSEWORT. Pedicularis. LOUSE. See Aphis. LOVE-APPLE. Lycopersicon escu- lentum. See Tomato. LOVE-LIES-BLEEDING. 145 stances (66°) Unputrefied tanners’ bark 115 Cowdung . deere 130 Big ang ititegutiwies ey woah aeD Sheep dung a Saeed Pigeon dung. . 50 Refuse marine salt (60°) . 492 Soot (68°) . 36 Burnt clay > 29 The richest soil re one Mie 23 Coal ashes é 14 Lime (part carbonate) | 11 Crushed rock salt . . 10 Gypsum aah 9 Chalk 4 ' The absorbing power of a manure is much influenced by the state in which it is presented to the atmosphere. In a finely divided state mere capillary at- traction assists it; hence, the import- ance of keeping the soil frequently stirred by hoeing, &c. But a mere ‘mass of cotton, by means of capillary attraction, will absorb moisture from the air, yet it parts with it at a very slight elevation of temperature: it is of im- portance therefore to ascertain which MAN 362 MAN ee ee are the manures that not only absorb but retain moisture powerfully. The following results of my experiments throw some light on this point :— Pig dung evaporated to dry- ness at a temperature of 106°, and then moistened with six parts of water, + 135’ required for being reduced to dryness again, at the above temperature Horse-dung under cata ts 90 circumstances Comimomnale’. i SOS i WG ay WE, Mea NA SAE SO OED RCSL ON RS 60S legge Be a tlds a a a Oa aa 2 Poor soil (siliceous) . . . . 23 Sy pacts SF SROs These experiments point out a cri- terion by which we easily ascertain the comparative richness of any two given soils or manures; the most fertile will be most absorbent and retentive. Some manures increase the growth and vigour of plants by stimulating their absorbent and assimilating organs. The stimulating powers of excremen- titious manures arise from the salts of ammonia they contain. Sir H. Davy found vegetation assisted by solutions of muriate of ammonia (sal- ammoniac), carbonate of ammonia (vol- atile salt), and acetate of ammonia. Night soil, one of the most beneficial of manures, surpasses all others in the abundance of its ammoniacal consti- tuents in the proportion of three to one. It may be observed, that the nearer any animal approaches to man in the nature of its food, the more fertilizing is the manure it affords. I have no doubt that a languishing plant, one, for example, that has been kept very long with its roots out of the earth, as an orange tree recently im- ported from Italy, might be most rapid- ly recovered, if its stem and branches were steeped in a tepid weak solution of carbonate of ammonia, and when planted, an uncorked phial of the so- lution were suspended to one of the branches, to impregnate the atmosphere slightly with its stimulating fumes. Manures are also of benefit to plants by affording some of the gases of the atmosphere to their roots in a concen- trated form. A soil, when first turned up by the spade or plough, has gene- rally a red tint, of various intensity, which by a few hours’ exposure to the. air subsides into a gray or black hue. The first colour appears to arise from the oxyde of iron which all soils con- tain, being in the state of the red or protoxide; by absorbing more oxygen during the exposure, it is converted into the black or peroxide. Hence one of the benefits of frequently stirring soils; the roots of incumbent plants abstract the extra dose of oxygen, and reconvert it to the protoxide. Coal ashes, in common with all carbona- ceous matters, have the power of strongly attracting oxygen. Every gar- dener may have observed how rapidly a bright spade of iron left foul with coal ashes, becomes covered with rust, or red oxide. All animal and vegetable manures absorb oxygen from the air during pu- trefaction? If it be required of what benefit this property is to plants, since the gases are freely presented to them in the atmosphere, it admits the ready answer, that they enjoy the additional quantity which is thus collected to the vicinity of their roots, without the lat- ter source being diminished ; and that plants are benefited by such additional application to their radicule has been proved by the experiments of Mr. Hill. The question may also be asked, whether the roots have the power to extract the oxygen from its combina- tion? That they have this power ad- mits of little doubt, since Saussure found that they were able to extract various saline bodies from their combi- nations; not only extracting but select- ing in those cases where several salts were in the same solution. Dr. Daubeny, the Oxford professor of agriculture, has also shown that stron- | tian is rejected by barley, pelargoniums, and the winged pea. Carbonic acid is also of benefit to plants, when applied to their roots in an advanced stage of their growth. Animal and vegetable matters evolve this gas whilst putrefying; and I am not aware of any manure that absorbs it from the atmosphere, so as to be for that reason beneficial to vegetation. Lime attracts it rapidly, but combines with it so strongly that it is useless to the plant, until the carbonate of lime so formed is imbibed and elaborated. Manures assist plants by destroying predatory vermin and weeds. This is > MAP 363 MAR —— not a property of animal and vegetable manures—they foster both those ene- mies of our crops. Salt and lime are very efficient destroyers of slugs, snails, grubs, &c. Stable manure, and all decomposing animal and vegetable substances, have a tendency to. promote the decay of stubborn organic remains in the soil, on the principle that putrescent sub- stances hasten the process of putrefac- tion in other organic bodies with which they come in contact. Salt, in a small proportion, has been demonstrated by Sir J. Pringle to be gifted with a similar septic property, and ‘that lime rapidly breaks down the texture of organized matters is well known. There is no doubt that rich soils, or those abounding in animal and vegeta- ble remains, are less liable to change in temperature with that of the incum- bent atmosphere, than those of a poorer constitution. .This partly arises from causes explained when treating of the influence of the colour of soils upon vegetation. Some manures, as salt, protect plants from suffering by sudden reductions of temperature, by entering in their system; stimulating, and ren- dering them more vigorous, impreg- nating their sap, and, consequently, rendering it less liable to be congealed. —Princ. of Gardening. MAPLE. Acer. MARANTA. Fifteen species. Stove herbaceous perennials. Division. Light rich soil. MARATTIA. Two species. perennial ferns. Loam and’peat. MARCETIA excoriata. Stove shrub. Cuttings. Rich light loam. MARCGRAAVIA. |» Two species. Curious stove evergreen shrubby creep- ing plants. Cuttings. Turfy loam and peat. MARCH is a busy month, as will appear from the following calendarial directions :— Stove Division or seeds. ! KITCHEN GARDEN. Alexanders, sow; earth up.—Angeli- ca, sow or plant.— deena 4 51 ws TIMBER MEASURE. A load of timber, unhewn, is 40 cub. ft. squared, 50 1 inch plank 600 sq. ft. 13 “ 400 << 2 oe SU ny “CE A load of 23 inch plank 240 sq. ft. 3 86 «6990 «é aL 170 < 4 ce 150 (74 LAND MEASURE. The English statute acre contains 4840 square yards; the Scotch, 5760; the Irish, 7840; the Devonshire, cus- tomary, 4000; the Cornish, 5760; the Lancashire, 7840 ; the Cheshire and Staf- fordshire, 10,240 ; the Wiltshire tenant- ry, 3630. The French arpent is an English acre and three-fourths of a rood. half an English acre ; the Prussian mor- gen is not quite three-fourths of an acre. The Strasburg acre is nearly LONG MEASURE. 12 Inches 1 Foot. 40 Poles 1 Furlong. 3 Feet ._ 1 Yard. 8 Furlongs : LeMiem 6 Feet . - . 1 Fathom. 3 Miles)" .8 1 League. Bo Yards’ "4s hem Pole: | 69: Miles 1 Degree. SQUARE MEASURE. Inches. Feet. 144 1 Yards. | Poles, Rods, 1,296 b, 1 or Perches. 39,204 ie 302 1 Roods. 1,568,160 10,890 1210 40 1 Acre. 6,272,640 43,560 4840 160 4 1 30 Acres are 1 ROOM mena: Sod 640 e es e if Yard of Land. Hide of Land. Square Mile. ii | a \ i ‘ MEA 369 MEA —_o—- CUBIC MEASURE. 1728 Cubic Inches make 27. <* Feet sLeinh. Sy'e a1 1 60 of Rough T Timber JO, 1, 8S. of Hewm 108. sé ahs 128 ce c¢é - 1 Cubic Foot. Ei f%.). oWard'. re ' 1 Load. - « 1 Stack of Wood. 1 Cord. LONDON MARKET FRUIT AND VEGETABLE MEASURES. These being made either of osier or deal shavings, vary triflingly in size more than measures made of less flexi- ble materials. They are as follow :— Sea-Kale Punnets.—Eight inches di- ameter at the top, and seven inches and a half at the bottom and two inches deep. Radish Punnets.—Eight inches di- ameter, and one inch deep, if to hold six hands ; or nine inches by one inch for twelve hands. Mushroom Punnets.—Seven inches by one inch. | Salading Punnets.—Five inches by two inches. Half-Sieve.—Contains three imperial gallons and a half. It averages twelve inches and a half diameter, and six in- ches in depth. Sieve.—Contains seven imperial gal- lons. Diameter, fifteen inches; depth, eight inches. Bushel- Sieve —Ten imperial gallons and a half. Diameter at top, seven- teen inches and three quarters ; depth, eleven inches and a quarter. Bushel-Basket—Ought, when heaped, to contain an imperial bushel. Di- ameter at bottom, ten inches; at top, fourteen inches and a half; depth, se- venteen inches. Walnuts, nuts, apples, and potatoes are sold by this measure. A bushel of the last-named, cleaned, weighs 56 lbs., but 4 lbs. additional are allowed if they are not washed. A Potile is a long tapering basket that holds about a pint and a half. Hand—Applies to a bunch of ra- dishes, which contains from twelve to thirty, according to the season. A Bundle contains six to twenty heads of brocoli, celery, &c.; and in the case of asparagus from 100 to 150. A Bunch is applied to herbs, and va- ries much in size according to the season. - HEAPED MEASURES. English market-gardeners, and re- tailers of fruit, potatoes, &c., generally vend:their commodities as if the Act of Parliament, 5 and 6 Will. IV. c. 63, did not exist. By this statute selling by heaped measure is forbidden under a penalty of not more than 40s. for every such sale. Section 8 provides that, as some articles heretofore sold by heaped measure are incapable of being stricken, and may not inconveniently be sold by weight, it is enacted, that all such arti- ticles may henceforth be sold by a bushel-measure, corresponding in shape with the bushel prescribed by the 5 Geo. IV. c. 74, for the sale of heaped measure, or by any multiple or aliquot part thereof, filled in all parts as nearly to the level of the brim as the size and shape of the articles will admit; but nothing herein shall prevent the sale by weight of any article heretofore sold by heaped measure. The 5 Geo. IV.c. 74, thus referred to, enacts, by section 24 (7, that for potatoes, fruit, &c., the bushel shall be made round, with a plain and even bottom, and being nine- teen inches and a half from outside to outside, and capable of containing 80lbs. weight of water. Of Wood Fuel.—English Measure.— -Wood-fuel is assized into shids, billets, faggots, fall-wood, and cord-wood. A shid is of fall-wood and cord-wood. A shid is to be four feet long, and, according- as they are marked and notched, their proportion must be in the girth: viz.,if they have but one notch they must be sixteen inches in the girth; if two notches, twenty-three inches; if three notches, twenty-eight inches; if four notches, thirty-three inches ; and if five notches, thirty-eight inches about. Billets are to be three feet long, of which there should be three sorts; namely, a single cask, and a cask of two. The first is seven inches;. the se- MEC 370 MEL SSeS Se ; cond ten inches; and the third fourteen inches about. They are sold by the hundred of five score. Faggots are to be three feet long, and, at the band, oftwenty-four inches about, besides the knot; of such faggots fifty go to the load. Bavins and Spray-wood are sold by the hundred, which are accounted a! load. Cord-wood is the bigger sort of fire-wood; and it is measured by a cord or line, whereof there are two measures —that of fourteen feet in length, three feet in breadth, and three feet in height; the other is eight feet in length, four feet in height, and four feet in breadth. MEASURE OF WOOD. 2 1000 Billets of Wood 10 Cwt. of Wood _ 1 Cord of Wood 100 Lbs. of Wood MECONOPSIS. Three species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Seeds. Light soil. MEDICAGO. Seventy-two species. Chiefly hardy annuals, and, for the most part, trailers. The herbaceous peren- nial kinds are increased by division ; the shrubby species by cuttings; and the annuals by seed, Common soil suits them all. MEDICK. Medicago. MEDINILLA erythrophylia. evergreen shrub. MEDLAR. Mespilus germanica. Varieties. — Blake’s Large; Dutch, largest fruit; Nottingham, small, but best flavoured ; Stoneless, inferior, but keeps longer than others. Propagation by Seed.—This is a tedi- ous mode, the seed usually lying two years before it germinates. Sow imme- diately the fruit containing the seed de- cays, in common light soil. Water the seedlings frequently in dry weather ; thin them to two feet apart; and when four or five years old they will be fit for final planting. By Layers.—This may be done in February and March, making use of shoots of the previous year. They will have rooted by the autumn. . Grafting and Budding may be done on the White Thorn, but the Pear is a better stock for the medlar. Soil.—A well-drained, but retentive loam suits it best. Planting, Pruning, &c.—See the di- rections given for the Pear. Storing.—The fruit ought not to be gathered until November, for if the gathering is made before the fruit is fully matured, it shrivels without ripen- ing in its decay. Spread them singly upon sand, the calyx, or open side Stove 1 Cord. 1 Cord. 2 Chaldron of Coals. 1 Quintal of Wood. downwards, and dipping the stalk end in a strong brine of common salt and water, which is said to check the oc- currence of mouldiness. MEGACLINIUM. Three species. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood. MEGASTACHYA.. Nine spe- cies. Grasses. Chiefly annuals. Seeds. Common soil. MELALEUCA. Forty-six species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Half- ripened cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. ~ MELANTHIUM. Eight species. Green-house bulbous perennials. Off- sets or seeds. Loam, peat, and sand. MELASPHARULA. Four species. Green-house bulbous perennials. Off- sets. Sandy peat. MELASTOMA. Twelve species. Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs. MM. elongata, is a tuberous-rooted perennial, and very beautiful. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. MELHANIA. Three species. Stove or green-house evergreen trees. Cut- tings. Sandy loam. MELIA. Nine species. Stove or green-house evergreen trees. M. aze- darach, is deciduous: large ripened cuttings, with the leaves not shortened. Loam, peat, and sand. MELIANTHUS. Three species. Green-house or hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Light rich soil. MELICHRUS. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. San- dy peat. MELICOCCA. Four species. Stove evergreen fruit trees. Ripe cuttings. Light loamy soil. MELICOPE ternata. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat. ‘ MEL 371 MEL ——_e—_— MELISSA. Balm. Four species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Common soil. MELITTA melissophyllum. and two varieties. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Common soil. MELOCACTUS. Melon thistle. Fourteen species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Offsets. Sandy peat. MELODINUS. Twospecies. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Loam and peat. MELOLONTHA, the Cockchafer. M. vulgaris. Common Cockchafer. M. horticolo.. May-Bug, or Bracken- clock. Feeds upon the leaves of the Raspberry and Rose. Mr. Curtis justly observes, that—‘*‘ When the roses are in full bloom in May, these beetles sometimes do very extensive mischief to the flowers, by eating out the anthers and consuming the petals. Having de- posited about a hundred eggs in the earth, the female dies, and the larve hatch and commence their attacks upon the roots of the grass. It is stated, that -they are feeding three years, and they reside about an inch beneath the turf; but as winter approaches, they retire deeper into the earth; and even in November, when frost has set in, they have buried themselves a spade deep. The larve are rather active and can walk tolerably well, dragging their bo- dies after them; they lie, however, generally curved up in the shape of a horse-shoe; the head is deep, ochreous and destitute of eyes. The body is ochreous white with a few brown hairs. To kill these larve, water the grass in the autumn with one-tenth gas liquor to two-tenths water, it will do no mis- chief to the grass, but will extirpate these miners. Where the gas liquor cannot be obtained, employ strong salt water.??—Gard. Chron. MELON. Cucumis melo. Varieties.—There are many varieties of the Melon of which the Nutmeg may be considered as the type; it and the Citron are, however, the most desirable, which have come under our observa- tion. The mode of out-door culture is very similar to that of the cucumber; they delight in light land well manured ; are quite tender, and should not be planted until all fear of frost has ceased. To force Melons.—Although a com- mon hot-bed is generally used for this plant, yet a pit, as it is technically termed, is more economical, and by enabling a more regular temperature to be sustained, renders the fruit in great- er perfection. The pit is a rectangular frame or bin, built of nine inch brick- work, in preference to boards, which have to be renewed every five or six years, if employed and enclosed by a glass case of the necessary dimensions. Mr. Smith, gardener to A. Keith, Esq., of Ravelstone, N. B., has suggested a mode of building a pit which renders the renewal of the heat in it easy; and as the committee appointed to examine it report, is the means of considerable saving compared with the common mode of forming an open bed. But the facility with which linings may be ap- plied is its best feature; for if by any chance the heat failed, there was seldom any alternative in the old pits but to break them up. The accompanying sketch will ‘at once show the form of the pit, and Mr. Smith’s mode of applying the linings. A is the pit the side of which a a in- stead of being a continuous piece of Fig. 98. brick-work are merely rows of pillars six feet apart; and the brick-work of the frame 6 6 is supported by bars of iron reaching from pillar to pillar. An outer wall, c c,is constructed at two and a half feet distance from the pillars on each side ; thus two bins are formed in which the linings are inserted, as is found necessary, and are kept "close covered with thick boards; d represents the lights, which thus are ‘formed with- out any wooden frames. For other modes of construction, see Pits, &c. If a common hot-bed is employed, fifteen barrow loads of dung is the usual al- lowance to each light, which make it about six inches higher than is allowed for the cucumber bed of largest dimen- sions. If a melon house be employed, the following is the form and mode adopted by Mr. Fleming. «« The house is twenty-eight feet long, and fifteen wide, and is heated- by 372 MEL ———s pate © means of a saddle boiler, with four-inch pipes passing round the outside of the pit, which pipes are fitted with cast-iron troughs for holding water to regulate the moisture of the atmosphere. Be- neath the pit is an arched chamber, a, along the front of which runs the flue, b, imparting a slight degree of heat to the soil above, and also serving to heat a series of arches, c, which run along beneath the path, and are entered from a house in front, d, and which are used for forcing rhubarb, &c., in the winter.”’ —Gard. Chron. .Mr. Green has published the follow- ing excellent mode of heating a melon pit with hot water :— ‘¢The annexed figure represents a section of the pit: 1, 1, are the flow pipes and the water troughs; 3, the pipes to fill the troughs; 4, the pipe by which the water is let out of the troughs; 5, the bed for the plants; and 6, the trellis on which the shoots are trained.”’ a Fig. 100. Time and Mode of Sowing.—Seed may be sown about the middle of Jan- uary; but the usual time is about the same period of the succeeding month, or not even until its close, if severe weather; to be repeated towards the end of March, and lastly in the first weeks of April and May. The length of time between the sowing and cutting, depends chiefly upon the variety em- ployed. But little time is gained by sowing before February is well ad- vanced, and more risk of failure incur- red. On the average, fifteen weeks elapse; on the shortest and coldest days of winter eighteen; and as the spring advances it decreases to eleven or twelve; these periods necessarily varying in different years. The mode of sowing, managing the seedlings, pricking out, &c., being the same as | with the cucumber, only that a few de- grees higher temperature is required, I refer the reader to that head. The pots in which the seed is sown should be three or four inches deep. Each sow- | ing is best performed twice, four or five days eJapsing before the second inser- tion; this guards as much as possible against failure. The pots should be plunged by degrees, and not at once down tothe rim. Those for pricking into must be about five inches in di- ameter. The first stopping is usually | performed in the seed-beds. Ridging out.—The soil must be two feet deep, and the plants inserted in the centre of each light, care being taken to remove them with as Jittle injury as pos- sible to the roots. The removal should take place soon after the attainment of the rough leaves, or immediately on the appearance of the lateral runners. If the bed is not ready, those from the earth of the seed-beds must be moved into pots, and those already in them turned into larger ones, from whence they may be finally removed without detriment; one plant only should be allowed to remain, for no more are re- quired for each light. Water must be given with the precautions enumerated for cucumbers, and especial care taken not to wet the foliage, or to apply it too abundantly, and repeated two or three times until the plants are establish- ed. When completely rooted, the bed may be earthed by degrees to its full depth, sixteen inches; it being first added immediately round the cones, and pressed moderately firm as it is laid on. The pruning and training must be performed as in cucumbers, and the same precautions taken to admit air and light, and to shade and cover, &c. It is in the training and management of the foliage in particular that the ge- nerality of gardeners are careless, al- though the labours of the physiologist and chemist have demonstrated how important it is that every leaf should be MEL 373 MEL sd kept in its natura] posture and vigour. So convinced was Mr. Knight of the little attention paid to this point, that he took some melon plants under his especial care. He placed one under each light, the glass of which was six feet by four; the branches were trained regularly and secured by pegs in every direction; and still further, to present the largest possible surface of foliage to the light, the leaves were held erect at equal distances from the glass. As great injury is sustained by these from the common mode of watering, it was so performed as not to touch them. By this simple additional care, the other routine of their management being the same as usual, the fruit attained an ex- traordinary degree of perfection, and ripened in an unusually short space of time. Mr. Knight further directs, how- ever, that wherever a sufficient quantity of fruit is set, the production of more leaves is to be prevented, if they can- not be exposed to the light without overshadowing the fruit, by pinching off the laterals as soon as formed. No part of full-grown leaves, however, should be destroyed though far distant from the fruit. Temperature.—The temperature re- quires particular attention at the time of setting and ripening; though neglect at all the stages of growth is fatal. It must never fall below 709, or rise above 80°. The seed or nursery bed may continue about the minimum, but never below it: and the fruiting one as con- stantly approximating the maximum as possible until the fruit is full grown, when the temperature during the day may vary between 85° and 95°, Im- pregnation must be performed as di- rected for cucumbers. When the run- ners completely touch the side of the frame, if the season is genial it must be raised three or four inches by means of bricks, otherwise they must be pruned or stopped. From this, the propriety ef having only one plant to a light, is evident; for the runners being often six or seven feet Jong, and very numer- ous, require, if there is not room for training, the frame to be lifted long before the season will allowit. As soon as the fruit is set they must be looked over three or four times in a week to observe which is the most vigorous and finest; of these, one that has the largest footstalk, and the near- er the main stem the better, must be left on each runner, and all others nipped off, the runner at the same time being broken away at the third joint above it. Eight melons on one plant of the large varieties, and about twelve of the smaller are quite sufficient to be left; if more are suffered to remain, they will either be of inferior size and quality, or not ripen at al]. By this pruning fresh runners are often in- duced ; but these must in like manner be stopped, and any fruit that they may produce be removed. If a superabun- dance are’ produced, which especially, if new seed is employed, will some- times happen, it is necessary to thin them, and in doing this the weakest and most luxuriant must alike be rejected, those of an average size being the most fruitful. It must always be kept in mind, that air should be admitted as much and as often as circumstances will allow. During mild and serene afternoons and evenings, the glasses may be entirely removed, but on no consideration left offall night. In very warm weather they may be kept off, from ten in the morning until five, a shade being afforded to the plants dur- ing the meridian if they flag atall. It is necessary, both for melons and cu- cumbers, that something should be laid between the fruit and the earth of the bed, otherwise it will be speckled and injured in appearance; clean straw and reeds spread in thin but regular layers are often employed for this purpose. If tiles or pieces of board are made use of, it is of considerable service in for- warding the ripening, to have them painted or charred black; but what would be still better is coal ashes spread over the surface of the bed two or three inches deep and beat smooth. This, I am of opinion, is preferable from its power of absorbing and re- taining heat, and inferior in no other quality to drifted sea or river sand, recommended by Mr. Henderson, of Brechin Castle, N. B., which, he ob- serves, extirpates the slater or wood- louse, by preventing it concealing it- self from the rays of the sun; it keeps down the steam, affords a bed for the fruit as warm and as dry as tiles or slates, retains the moisture longer, whilst it becomes dry itself sooner than those coverings, and is a powerful pre- ventive of the evil—the mildew. If MEL 374 MEL ———— tiles or slates are employed, they must be put under the fruit as soon as it has attained the size of a walnut, the other materials immediately after the plants are well established. A regular moist- ure should be kept up by moderate wa- terings applied with the precaution inti- mated for cucumbers; but when ,the fruit is becoming ripe, water must be either altogether withheld or applied very sparingly. About thirty or forty days usually elapse between the setting and full ripeness; it must be gently turned twice or three times during a week, otherwise that side which lies constantly on the ground will be blanch- ed and disfigured. Its maturity is inti- mated by a circular crack near the footstalk, sometimes by becoming yel- lowish; but more decidedly by the emission of a fragrant smell. The cutting should be performed early in the morning, and the fruit kept in a cool place until wanted. The whole of the stalk is left pertaining to it when cut. To prevent the fruit’s bursting, it is a very successful plan to elevate the further end of the fruit as much as 30° above the stalk end. To Obtain Seed.—F or the production of seed, some fruit of the earliest raised crops must be left: of these the finest and firmest should be selected, the choice being guided by the circum- stances, as are mentioned for cucum- bers. No two varieties should be grown in the same frame, either when the seed is an object, for then it would be con- taminated ; or if the fruit is alone re- quired; for their growth and vigour almost always differing, different treat- ment is required by each. Neither should cucumbers or gourds be allowed to vegetate in such a situation, as to risk mutual impregnation by insects. Both of the melon and cucumber, such seed only should be kept as sinks freely to the bottom of water. Seed is best for sowing when three or four years old; if less than two, the plants raised from it are apt to produce a super- luxuriance of vine, and a multitude of male blossoms. If new seed is una- voidably employed, it should be hung in a paper or phial near the fire until wanted, or be carried in the pocket for three or four weeks. If, on the con- trary, the seed is very old, it should be soaked in milk-warm water for two or three hours before sowing. twenty years old it has been known to produce fruitful plants. Hand Glass Crops.—For these, plants are required from sowings of the middle of March, April, or early in May, and whose fitness for planting out, is marked by the rough leaf, &c., as intimated be- fore. The bed must be four and a half feet wide, in length proportionate to the number of glasses, which must be at least four feet apart; and, eight barrow loads of dung being allowed to each glass, it will be about two and a half feet high. It may be’ founded in a trench, if the soil is dry, but it is best constructed on the surface. The earth- ing, planting, and other points of man- agement are precisely the same as for the frame crops. The temperature need not, however, be so high, the maximum required being 70°, but it must never sink below 65°, which may easily be accomplished by linings, &c. The runners must not be allowed to extend from beneath the glasses until! June, or the weather has become genial and settled, but be kept within as no- ticed for cucumbers. When allowed to escape, all dwindled or supervigor- ous shoots must be removed, and the training be as regular as for those in the frames. The glasses raised upon props must,. however, be kept con- stantly over the centre as a shelter to the capital parts. The bed requires to be hooped over fur the support of mats in cold or wet weather. If paper-frames are employ- ed, the most unremitting attention is required, the plants being very apt to spindle under them. They may, how- ever, be employed with advantage in the place of mats for sheltering and shading. If the weather is at all un- | favourable at the time the fruit is ap- proaching maturity, it is highly ad- vantageous to place hand-glasses over those that are growing exterior to the original one. The latest fruit seldom ripen even with the greatest care and at- tention, unless there are spare frames to inclose them entirely; those which do not, are employed in pickling. For a tolerable supply throughout the season, a small family requires one three-light frame, and three hand-glass- es; these together will yield on the When | average thirty or forty melons. The MEL 375 MEN ——_~—— largest establishment will not require more than four times as many. MELON,WATER. The Water Melon is cultivated in the United States precisely like the Nutmeg. There are many kinds, of which the Mountain Sprout, Mountain Sweet, and Black Spanish are most esteemed at Philadel- phia. The culture is so simple, and so generally understood, that direction must be needless. To produce fine Melons on heavy or wet soil, it is ne- cessary to prepare a light rich compost in sufficient quantity to supply the wants of the vines—hills four or five feet in diameter, and two feet in depth. MELON PUMPKIN. Cucurbita me- lopepo. MELON THISTLE. Melocactus. MELON TURK?S CAP. Melocactus communis. MEMECYLON. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings. Sandy peat and loam. MENIOCUS linifolius. Hardy an- nual. Seeds. Common soil. : MENISCIUM. Five species. Stove Ferns. Division or seeds. Loam and peat. MENISPERMUM. Five spe- cies. Hardy deciduous or stove ever- green twiners. Division, cuttings, or seeds. Common soil. MENONVILLEA filifolia. Hardy annual. Seeds. Light loamy soil. MENTHA. Mint. Twenty-five species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Common soil. Spear or Green Mint. M. viridis. Is employed in sauces and salads, as well as dried for soupsin winter. There are two varieties, the broad and narrow leaved, equally good. Penny Royal. M. Pulegium. Is cul- tivated for its use in cuJinary and phar- maceutical preparations. There are two varieties, the trailing, which is usually cultivated, and the upright. Peppermint. M. piperita. For dis- tilling, and the production of its pecu- liar oil and water. Soil and Situation.—These plants are best grown on a tenacious soil; even a clay is more suitable to them, than a light silicious one. It should be mode- rately fertile, entirely free from stag- nant moisture, and consequently on a dry subsoil or well drained. A wet soil makes them luxuriant in summer, but ensures decay in winter. A border or situation that is sheltered from the meridian sun, is always to be allotted them, as in such they are most vigorous and constant in production. A com- partment entirely secluded from the in- fluence of the sun is, however, equally unfavourable with one that is too much exposed. | Time and Mode of Propagation.— They are propagated by parting the roots in February or March, September or October, and by slips or offsets at the same seasons. The mints likewise may be increased by cuttings of the an- nual shoots in May or June, as well as by cuttings of the roots in spring or au- tumn. For production of green tops throughout the winter and early spring, the spearmint is often planted in a.hot- bed, and more rarely pennyroyal, every three weeks during October and three following months. Planting in the open ground at what- ever seasons, or by whatever mode, should if possible be performed in showery weather, or water must be given plentifully, especially to cuttings. If propagated by divisions of the root, they must be inserted in drills two inches deep; if by slips or cuttings, they must be five or six inches in length, and their Jower half being di- vested of leaves, planted to that depth in every instance, being set in rows ten inches apart each way. The only after cultivation required is the constant destruction of weeds, which are peculiarly injurious. After July, the produce of green tops is of little value; they should therefore be allowed then to advance to flower, which they will produce towards the beginning of September, when they are in the fit state for gathering, either for drying or distilling. In either case the stalks should be cut just previously to the flower opening. At the close of September or beginning of October, the stems must be cut down as close as possible, the weeds cleared entirely away, and a little fine fresh mould spread over them. The beds should never be allowed to continue longer than four years ; by constant gathering, the plants not only become weakened, but the roots becoming matted and greatly increased, produce only numer- ous diminutive shoots or entirely decay. _Forcing.—For forcing, a moderate hot-bed is necessary, earthed over about MEN 376 MIC° —_—_>— three inches thick; in this the roots may be inserted about four inches apart, and one !deep. They are sometimes only protected with mats, but frames are preferable. If itis inconvenient to con- struct a bed purposely, they may be planted in pots and plunged in any bed already in operation, or be set on the side of the stove. The temperature should never vary beyond the extremes of 70° and 80°. MENTZELIA. Four species. Stove, green-house, and hardy perennials. M. aspera, a half-hardy annual. Cuttings. Sandy Joam and peat. MENZIESIA. Three species and many varieties. Hardy deciduous or evergreen shrubs. Layers. - Sandy peat. MERENDERA caucasica. Har- dy bulbous perennial. Seeds or offsets. Light loam. MERIANIA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. MHalf-ripe cuttings. Sandy peat and loam. MERODON narcissi. Narcissus Fly. Of this insect we have the following par- ticulars by Mr. Curtis :-— *< In the month of November, one or two large roundish holes are sometimes found on the outsides of the bulbs of the Daffodil, which are more or less decayed within, where a maggot will generally be found, which by feeding in the heart during the summer and autumn months, has been the sole author of the mischief. *¢ This larva is somewhat like the flesh-maggot, and not unlike a bot, only that it is not serrated with spines, and instead of being whitish, its natural colour, is changed to brown by its living amongst the slimy matter which has been discharged from its own body, causing the gradual rotting of the bulb. ** Towards the end of November, the maggot is transformed into a pupa, to accomplish which it eats its way out of the bulb near the roots, and buries it- self in the surrounding earth. The pupz are dull brown, elliptical, rough, and strongly wrinkled. In this state they remain until the following spring, when the flies issue from their tombs. Their eggs are then deposited, but upon what part of the plant they are laid, has not been observed, but probably upon the bulb near the base of the leaves. April seems to be the month when most of the flies hatch; and they have been compared to small humble- bees, from the disposition of the colours, which are, for the most part, yellow, orange, and black, but they certainly bear a greater resemblance to some of the bots; from bees they are readily distinguished by having only two wings, the horns and proboscis are totally dif ferent, and they have no stings. ‘¢ Bulbs are affected by these maggots, and they are readily detected by their not throwing out leaves; when, there- fore, a bulb fails to vegetate, it ought to be immediately dug up and destroyed.?* — Gard. Chron. MERTENSIA. Eight species. Har- dy herbaceous perennials. Division. They thrive best in sandy peat. MESEMBRYANTHEMUM. Three hundred and seventeen species, and many varieties. Chiefly green-house evergreen shrubs; many are trailing. plants, some annuals and herbaceous perennials. M. christallinum and M. cultratum are hardy. Cuttings. Sandy loam. MESPILUS. Medlar. Two species and eight varieties. Hardy deciduous trees. MM. germanica stricta is ever- green. Budding or grafting on the common hawthorn or pear, or seeds. Common soil. See Medlar. MESSERSCHMIDIA. Four species. Stove evergreens. M. hirsutissima, a tree, the rest climbers. Cuttings. Loam and peat. MESSUA ferrea. tree. Seeds or cuttings. peat, and sand. METALASIA. Four species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. dy peat and loam. METEOROLOGY. See Weather. ‘ Stove evergreen Strong loam, METROSIDEROS. Six species. . Green-house evergreen shrubs. M. ve- rus, a stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. MEXICAN TIGER FLOWER. Ti- gridia pavonia. MICE. Various plans have been suggested to preserve peas and beans, ~ when sown, from the ravages of mice. . We believe, we have tried them all. Dipping the seeds in oil, and then roll- ing them in powdered resin; putting small pieces of furze in the drills and over the rows after the seed has been sown, but before covering with the earth—were both partially successful, but the mode attended with the most complete safety, has always been that. San-. MIC 3 7 MIL —_——— of covering the surface of the soil over the rows, to the depth of full an inch, and six inches wide, with finely sifted coal ashes. The mice will not scratch through this, and it has the additional advantage, by its black colour absorbing the solar heat, of promoting the early vegetation of the crop. MICHAELMAS DAISY. Aster. MICHAUIA. Two species. Hardy biennials. Seeds. Rich loam. MICHELIA champaca. Stove ever- green tree. Cuttings. Light loam. MICONIA. Fourteen species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and eat. MICRANTHEMUM orbiculatum. Half-hardy evergreen trailer. Division. Sandy peat. MICROCALA. Two species. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. MICROLOMA. Two species. Green- house evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Loam and peat. MICROMERIA. Eight species, and a few varieties. Chiefly half-hardy ever- green shrubs. Cuttings. Common soil. MICROPERA. Two species. M. banksiz, a green-house tuberous-rooted perennial. M. pallida, a stove orchid. Offsets. Rich mould. MICROTIS. Three species. hardy tuberous-rooted orchids. sion. Loam and peat. MIDGE. See Cecidomyia and Sciara. MIGNONETTE. Reseda odorata. Soil.—Light loam, well drained, and manured with leaf-mould. Sowing in the open ground from the end of April to the beginning of July will produce a sure succession of blooms through the year. If allowed to seed and the soil suits it, mignonette will continue to propagate itself. If not al- lowed to ripen its seed, the same plants will bloom for two or more seasons, being a perennial in its native country. For Pot-Culture and the production of flowers to succeed those of the open ground plants, sow once in August, and again in September. The soil as above, well drained and pressed into forty-eight pots: cover the seed a fourth of an inch. Thin the seedlings to three in a pot. Water sparingly. When mignonette is deficient of perfume, it is because the temperature is too low. Tree mignonette.—Dr. Lindley says, ‘¢ That this is obtained by selecting and Half. Divi- potting a vigorous young plant, the| to the plants from the soil. flowers of which are to be pinched off as often as they appear during the first season. It must be repotted as occasion may require; the lower shoots must be removed in autumn, and the plant must be kept during winter in a room or green-house above the freezing point. The second season it may be treated in a similar manner, and the next year it may be allowed to bloom, which, with care, it will continue to do for several years.??—Gard. Chron. MIKANIA. Five species. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Light rich soil. . MILDEW, whether on the stems of the wheat, or on the leaves of the chrysanthemum, pea, rose, or peach, appears in the form of minute fungi, the roots of which penetrate the pores of the epidermis, rob the plant of its juices, and interrupt its respiration. There seems to me every reason to be- lieve that the fungus is communicated Every specimen of these fungi emits annually myriads of minute seeds, and these are wafted over the soil by every wind, vegetating and reproducing seed, if they have happened to be deposited ina favourable place, or remaining until the following spring without germinating. These fungi have the power of spread- ing also by stooling or throwing out off- sets. They are never absent from a soil, and at some period of its growth are annually to be found upon the plants liable to their inroads. They are more observed in cold, damp, muggy seasons, because such seasons are pe- culiarly favourable to the growth of all fungi. The best of all cures is a weak solution of common salt, and wa- ter sprinkled over the foliage of the plant affected by the aid of a painter’s brush, or impelled by a syringe. Dis- solve three ounces of the salt in each gallon of water, and repeat the applica-' tion on two or three successive days, applying it during the evening. Nitre has been employed with similar success, using one ounce to each gallon. Uredo rose, Puccinia rose, and Cladosproium herbarum, are the mildew fungi of the rose tree: Oidiwm crysiphoides of the peach tree; and Erysiphe communis of the pea. Of course there are many others. MILFOIL. Achillea. MILLA. Twospecies. Halfhardy MIL 378 MIX | = bulbous perennials. Offsets. Sandy| MITE. Acarus. loam. MILLINGTONIA simplicifolia. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Peat and loam. MILLIPEDE. See Julus. MILTONIA. Three species. Stove orchids. Mr. Paxton says, ‘that to propagate them, the stems should be cut half through, young plants are then emitted ; cut through the stem quite, a month before separating the young plants; plant in rough peat and pot- sherds.”’ MIMETES. Eight species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Light turfy loam. MIMOSA. Twenty-two species. Chiefly stove evergreen shrubs. pudica, an annual. baceous perennial. Loam, peat, and sand. MIMULUS. Seventeen species. Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials increased by division or seed. Com- mon soil. The green-house and half- hardy species require a light rich soil, and increase by cuttings. The annuals, seeds. Common soil. MIMUSOPS. Six species. Stove evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Light loamy soil, or loam and peat. MINT. See Mentha. ' MIRABILIS. Five species and several varieties. Green-house fusiform rooted perennials. Seeds. Light rich soil. MERBELIA. Six species. house evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings. Loam, peat, and sand. MISLETOE (Viscum album) is some- times required to be introduced upon the trees of the shrubbery, and other parts of the pleasure ground. The easiest and best way to propagate it is by ‘placing ripe seeds on the smooth branches of the common apple, pear, or white thorn, in February or March, without in any way damaging the bark on which they are placed. The seeds should be fixed on the under side of the branch, as there they are shaded, and more likely to escape being eaten by birds when they begin to vegetate. Misletoe may be grafted on the apple tree: but success is so precarious, that few succeed at present.—Gard. Chron. MITCHELLA repens. Hardy herba- ceous creeper; increased by cuttings ofthe stem. Peat, or peat and sand. M. viva, an_her- Young cuttings. Green- M.| their mere mixture. MITELLA. Five species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Peaty soil. -MITRASACME. Three species. M. canescens, a green-house herbaceous perennial; the other two annuals. Seeds. Sandy peat and loam. MIXTURE OF SOILS is one of the most ready and cheapest modes of im- proving their staple, and thus render- ing them more fertile; and upon the subject I have nothing to add to the following excellent remarks of my bro- ther, Mr. Cuthbert Johnson :— ‘¢T have witnessed even in soils to all appearance similar in composition, some very extraordinary results from Thus in the gra- velly soils of Spring Park, near Croy- don, the ground is often excavated to a depth of many feet, through strata of barren gravel and red sand, for the purpose of obtaining the white or silver sand, which exists beneath them. When this fine sand is removed, the gravel and red sand is thrown back into the pit, the ground merely levelled, and then either let to cottagers for gardens, or planted with forest trees; in either case the effect is remarkable; all kinds of either fir or deciduous trees will now vegetate with remarkable luxuriance ; and in the cottage garden thus formed, several species of vegetables, such as beans and potatoes, will produce very excellent crops, in the very soils in which they would have perished pre- vious to their mixture. The permanent advantage of mixing soils, too, is not confined to merely those entirely of an earthy composition ;—earths which contain inert organic matter, such as peat or moss earth, are highly valuable additions to some soils. Thus, peat earth was successfully added to the sandy soils of Merionethshire, by Sir Robert Vaughan. The Cheshire farm- ers add a mixture of moss and eal- careous earth to their tight-bound earths, the effect of which they de- scribe as having ‘a loosening opera- tion;? that is, it renders the soil of their strong clays less tenacious, and, consequently, promotes the ready ac- cess of the moisture and gases of the atmosphere to the roots. The culti- vator sometimes deludes himself with the conclusion that applying sand, or marl, or clay, to a poor soil, merely MOE 379 MON —_¢——. serves to freshen it for a time, and that the effects of such applications are ap- parent for only a limited period. Some comparative experiments, however, which were made sixteen years since, on some poor, hungry, inert heath land in Norfolk, have up to this time served to demonstrate the error of such a con- clusion. In these experiments, the ground was marled with twenty cubic yards only per acre, and the same com- post; it was then planted with a proper mixture of forest trees, and by the side of it, a portion of the heath, in a state of nature, was also planted with the same mixture of deciduous and fir trees. ‘¢ Sixteen years have annually a a to demonstrate, by the luxuriance of the marled wood, the permanent effects produced by this mixture of soils. The growth of the trees has been there rapid and permanent; but on the ad- joining soil, the trees have been stunted in their growth, miserable in appear- ance, and profitless to their owner. ‘¢ Another, but the least commonly practiced mode of improving the staple of a soil by earthy addition, is claying ; a system of fertilizing, the good effects of which are much less immediately apparent than chalking, and hence one _of the chief causes of its disuse. It requires some little time to elapse, and some stirring of the soil, before the clay is so well mixed with a sandy soil, as to produce that general increased attraction and retentive power for the atmospheric moisture, which ever con- stitutes the chief good result of claying poor soils. Clay must be moreover ap- plied in rather larger proportions to the soil than chalk; for not only is its ap- plication rarely. required as a direct food for plants for the mere alumina which it contains; since this earth en- ters into the composition of plants in very small proportion, but there is also another reason for a more liberal addi- tion of clay being required, which is the impure state in which the alumina exists in what are commonly called clay soils..°—Farm. Encyc. MOERHINGIA. Two species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Sand, loam, and peat. MOIST STOVE. See Stove. MOLDAVIAN BALM. JDracocepha- lum moldavicum. MOLE CRICKET. Gryllus gryjlio- talpa is known also in England as the churr-worm, jarr-worm, eve churr, and earth crab. It is, occasionally, very destructive to culinary vegetables; creeping under ground through holes it digs. It attains a length of two inches, is dark brown, and resembles in most respects. the common cricket. Mr. Kollar thus describes its habits :— ‘¢ The female hollows out a place for herself in the earth, about half a foot from the surface, in the month of June, and lays her eggs in a heap, which often contains from two to three hun- dred. They are shining yellowish brown, and of the size and shape of a grain of millet. This hollow place is of the shape of a bottle gourd, two inches long, and an inch deep, smooth within, and having on one side a wind- ing communication with the surface of the earth. The young, which are hatch- ed in July or August, greatly resemble black ants, and feed, like the old ones, on the tender roots of grass, corn, and various culinary vegetables. They be- tray their presence under the earth by the withered decay of culinary vegeta- bles in the garden. In October and November they bury themselves deep- er in the earth, as a protection from cold, and come again to the surface in the warmer days in March. Their pre- sence is discovered by their throwing up the earth like moles. ‘¢ The surest and most efficacious of remedies is, without doubt, destroying the brood in June or July. Practised gardeners know from experience where the nest of the mole cricket is situated ; they dig it out with their spades, and destroy hundreds in the egg state with little trouble.”»—Kollar. MOLINERIA plicata. Stove herba- ceous perennial. Division. Peat and loam. MOLUCCA BALM. Moluccella. MOLUCCELLA. Three species. Hardy annuals. M. tuberosa,a tuberous- rooted perennial. Seeds. Common soil. MONACHANTHUS. Monk’s-flower. Four species. Stove epiphytes. Divi- sion. Wood. MONARDA. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Com- mon soil. MONETIA barlerioides. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat. MONEYWORT. Dioscorea nummu- laria. MON 380 MOT es MONEYWORT. Lysimachia num- mularia. MONEYWORT. Taverniera num- mularia. MONK’S FLOWER. Monachanthus. MONK’S HOOD. Aconitum. MONNINA obtusifolia. Green-house _ evergreen shrub. Cuttings or seed. Peat and loam. MONOPSIS conspicua. Hardy an- nual. Seeds. Peat and Sand. MONOSCHILUS glozinifolia. tuberous-rooted perennial. Peat and Joam. MONOTAXIS simpler. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and loam. MONOTOCA. Four species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. ~ Sandy peat. MONSONIA. Four species. Green- house herbaceous perennials. M. ovata, a biennial, is increased by seed; the others, cuttings or division. Turfy loam and Jeaf mould. MONTEZUMA Speciosissima. evergreen tree. Loam and peat. MOON-SEED. Menispermum. MOON-WORT. Botrychium. MORA‘A. Twenty species. house bulbous perennials. Sandy Peat. MORENOA. Three species. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Peat and loam. MORICANDIA arvensis. Hardy bi- ennial. Seed. Common soil. MORINA. Two species. Green- house or halfhardy herbaceous peren- nials. Seed. Light rich soil. MORINDA. Five species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat. M. jasminoides is a green-house evergeen climber. MORISIA hypogea. Hardy herba- ceous perennial. Seed. Light loam. MORISONIA americana. Stove ever- Stove Division. Stove Half-ripened cuttings. Green- Division. green tree. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. MORMODES. Fivespecies. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood. MORNA. Two species. Green- house annuals. Seeds. Sandy peat and leaf mould. MORRENIA odorata. Green-house evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Rich mould. MORUS. Mulberry. Nine species, and many varieties. Chiefly hardy de- ciduous trees; a few are stove ever- greens. Layers. A loamy soil and a moist situation. See Mulberry. MOSCHARIA pinnatifida. Hardy an- nual. Seeds. Common soil. MOSCHATEL. Adoza. MOSCHOSMA. Two species. Stove annuals. Seeds. Light rich soil. MOSS is useful to the gardener for packing round the roots of plants; and even some bulbous roots have been cul- tivated in it; but when it infests the trunks of trees, or our lawns, it is one of the gardener’s pests. <¢ Moss only attacks lawns, the soil of which is unable to support a greensward of grass. When soil is exhausted, grasses begin to die off, and their place is taken by moss. The‘obvious mode, then, of proceeding, is to give the lawn a good top-dressing in winter, either of malt-dust, or nitrate of soda, or soot, or any other manure containing an abundance of alkali. finds the growth of moss arrested by frequent raking in wet weather, or by the application of pounded oyster-shells; but these are mere palliatives, and not remedies. Make your grass healthy, and it will soon smother the moss.”— Gard. Chron. The most effectual, most salutary, and least disagreeable remedy for moss on trees is of trivial expense, and which a gardener need but try upon one indi- vidual to insure its adoption. It is with a hand scrubbing brush, dipped in a strong brine of common salt, as often as necessary to insure each portion of the bark being moistened with it, to scrub the trunks and branches of his trees at least every second year. It most effectually destroys insects of all kinds, and moss; and the stimulating influence of the application, and the friction, are productive of the most beneficial effects. The expense is not so much as that of dressing the trunks with a solution of Jime, which, how- ever efficient in the destruction of moss, is not so in the removal of insects—is highly injurious to the trees, by filling up the respiratory pores of the epider- mis, and is decidedly a promoter of canker. On gravel walks, a strong so- lution of sulphate of copper (blue vitriol) © has been found the most effectual de- stroyer of moss. MOTH. Verbascum Blattaria. MOTHERWORT. Leonurus. The gardener: aw f MOT. 381 MOTHS, of most kinds, are the pa- rents of caterpillars preying upon some lant under the gardener’s care, and should be destroyed whenever disco- vered. MOULDINESS is the common-term | applied to that crop of fungi which appears on moist putrescent vegetable matters. These fungi are Mucores, and are effectually destroyed whenever common salt or lime can be applied. MOUNTAIN ASH. Pyrus Aucupa- rid. ' MOUSE TAIL. Dendrobium Myo- surus. MOUSE THORN. Centaurea Mya- cantha. MOVING PLANT. Desmodium gy- rans. MOWING is, next to digging, the most laborious of the gardener’s em- ployments ; and requires much practice, as well as an extremely sharp scythe, before he can attain to the art of shav- ing the lawn or grass plot smoothly and equally. A mowing machine has been invented by Mr. Budding and others, and is represented in this out- Fig. 101. line. It cuts, collects, and rolls the grass at the same time. Mowing is most easily performed whilst the blades of grass are wet, as they then cling to the scythe, and are consequently erect against its cutting edge. The operation, therefore, should be performed early in the morning, be- fore the dew has evaporated, or whilst the grass is wet from rain or artificia watering. See Scythe. - MUDDING or Puddling, is dipping the roots of trees, shrubs, and seedlings in a thin mud or puddle, and retaining them there until again planted, when- ever they are removed. It is one of the best aids to success, and should be universally adopted, for it is a rule without exception, that the less the MUL roots of a plant are injured, and the moister they are kept during its ye- moval, the less does it suffer by the transplanting. The best of all muds for the purpose is formed of three pounds of garden soi], one ounce of salt, eight ounces of soot, and one gallon of water. MULBERRY. Morus nigra. The Black, or Garden Mulberry. Soil and Site-—The soil most suitable for the mulberry is a rich, deep, and rather light loam, not cold nor wet, but well drained. It succeeds best as a standard, in a well-sheltered situa- tion, open to the south. It may be | trained also against a south wall with advantage in a cold climate, but re- quires much space.—Gard. Chron. Propagation — by Seed —is rarely practised, the seedlings varying in quality, and being long before they bear fruit. Sow in a warm border, during March, in drills half an inch deep. Give moderate waterings in dry weather to the seedlings, and shelter by mats. during cold nights. They re- quire remaining two years in the seed bed, and then four in the nursery, be- fore they are fit for final planting. By Layers.—To obtain these in large quantities, some mulberry trees should be headed down near to the ground, to induce lateral shoots for layering.— Where only a few are wanted, pots of earth may be raised to the branches. See Layering and Circumposition. Grafting and Budding —may be practised, taking any species of the genus Morus for the stock. Grafting is more difficult of success than bud- ding, and Mr. Knight recommends grafting by approach as the only cer- tain mode. By Cuttings—Mr. Knight recom- mends cuttings five inches in length, having two-thirds of their length two- year old wood, and one-third yearling -wood, to. be planted in November, be- neath a south wall. In March, move them into pots, leaving only one bud uncovered, and plunge in a moderate hot-bed. Shade during bright weather, and success is almost unfailing. A more simple and expeditious mode is the following, but whether it is gene- rally successful I am unable to state:— <¢ Lop off a straight branch, at least eight feet long, from a large tree, in March, the nearer the trunk the better; MUL 382 MUS —_——— clear away every little branch, and leave it quite bare; dig a hole four feet deep, plant the naked branch and make it firm in the ground; leave around it a little basin of earth to hold water, and if the season be dry, give it every morning a bucketfull of water through- out the summer. In two years it will have made a good head, and will bear fruit.°?—Gard. Chron. Pruning.—Standards do not require pruning, further than to remove the dead wood and irregular growths. On walls and as espaliers train in all the lateral annual shoots, for near the ends of these next year is the fruit mostly pro- duced, and pinch off all foreright un- fruitful buds as they are produced. In training, always make the branches descend below the horizontal. Forcing.—The mulberry bears forc- ing excellently, and will ripen its fruit early in June. It will bear a véry high temperature. It may also be grown of a dwarf size in pots, and be thus forced. MULCHING, is placing mulch, or long moist stable litter, upon the sur- face of the soil, over the roots of newly planted trees and shrubs. The best mode is to form a trench about six inches deep, to put in the mulch, and cover it with the earth. This prevents the mulch being dried or scattered by the winds, and is more neat than ex- posing it on the surface. Mulching keeps the moisture from evaporating, and prevents frost penetrating to the roots, straw being one of the worst conductors of heat. MULE or Hybrid, is a plant raised from seed generated by parents of dis- tinct species, and consequently un- fertile. See Hybridizing. MULLERA moniliformis. evergreen tree. Loam and peat. MULTIPLICATE FLOWER. Double Flower. MUNDIA spinosa, and its variety. Green-house and evergreen fruit shrubs. Young cuttings. Sandy peat. MUNTINGIA calabura. evergreen shrub. Cuttings. loamy soil. MURALTIA. Fourteen species.— Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Sandy peat. MURRAYA. Two species. Stove evergreens; one a shrub, the other a Stove Young cuttings.— See Stove Light tree. Ripe cuttings, with their leaves. Turfy loam and peat. MURUCUYA. Two species. evergreen climbers. Cuttings. and peat. MUSA. The Banana and Plantain belong to this genus, of which there are ten species. Stove herbaceous perennials. Suckers. Rich soil. The most valuable of the species is M. cavendishii; and upon its culture, and upon that of the whole genus, we have the following observations by Mr. W. Buchan, gardener at Blithfield :— ‘¢To bring musas to a high state of perfection, they should be grown in a house entirely devoted to them. It may have a ‘ridge and furrow’ roof, nearly flat, and should be divided into pits about two feet six inches square, in order to grow the plants separately, so that when they have done fruiting, each may be removed and replaced without disturbing its neighbour. The stem of this musa seldom attains a greater height under the most favoura- ble culture than six feet; and allowing two feet for the expansion of its foliage, a house ten feet high in front and twelve feet in the back, with sliding lights in the front and ends, would suit it admi- rably. But it may be easily fruited, and with good success, in a pit where there is sufficient height without crowd- ing the leaves. ‘The soil which suits all kinds of musa best is a mixture of half rotten dung and half sandy loam, with about one-fourth sandy peat, well mixed to- gether. The pits or tubs, in which latter M. cavendishit may also be fruited, should be well drained, as the plant requires to be supplied liberally with water at the root when growing. ‘¢ They should never cease growing, and never be allowed to want heat and moisture from the time they are planted in the pit or tub, until the fruits have attained their full size. A strong moist heat, never below 75° or 80° Fahren- heit, should be constantly kept up ; the plants frequently syringed over head, and exposed to full light, without any shade. This should be continued until the fruits are set and have attained their full size, taking care, however, not to wet the flowering plants. Young healthy plants will throw up their fruit in nine or ten months after being planted out, if treated as above; and Stove Loam ©. MUS 383 MUS ——_@—— as soon as all the fertile flowers are set, the end of the spadix, an inch or two above the last tier of perfectly set fruit, should be cut off. When the upper tier of fruit on the spike begins to change colour, totally discontinue wa- ter, both at the root and over head.??— Gard. Chron. M. coccinea. The cultivation of this species is thus detailed by Mr. G. Wat- son, gardener at Norton Vicarage :— «¢ In the latter part of February, plant in pots five or six inches in diameter, well drained, and the drainage covered with a little moss. Plunge the pots into a bottom heat between 60° and 70°. Water freely, but give no more water than the plants can take up from the soil. As soon as the pot is filled with roots, shift the plant into a pot a size larger. After it has filled this pot with roots, a final shifting into a pot at least sixteen inches in diameter may be given, and two or three suckers may then be left on the plant, which will succeed the centre or principal plant in blooming. At this last shifting, pot as many suckers in the same way as may be required for succession plants. The plant is grow- ing vigorously in this pot; cover the surface of the soil with moss, and place the pot in a shallow pan of water, and water it at least once or twice a day. I continue to keep the plant growing till November, after which I gradually get it into a dormant state, by withholding water during winter. It is allowed to remain dry till the soil separates from the edge of the pot, and may thus be kept in a cool green-house till spring. The suckers taken off at the last pot- tings, after being shifted into pots ten inches in diameter, and thrown into a dormant state at the same time as the old plant, will not only be much better wintered in the green-house, but will flower much earlier. In those parts where suckers are left on the mother plant, the centre will bloom by the be- ginning of May, and the suckers will flower in succession during the latter end of July and August, the latest flowers keeping fine till Christmas. In- stead of taking off suckers in the spring, leave two or three on the mother plant till July, then take them off, and treat them in the same manner as the succes- sion plants of the previous year.?°— Gard. Chron. MUSCARI. Eleven species. Hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets. loam. MUSHROOM. Agaricus campestris. To produce mushrooms artificially, beds: variously constructed are employed. Times of forming the Beds.—Beds may be constructed from January until the beginning of May, for spring and sum= mer production; and from July to the close of the year, for autumn and winter. Construction.—A bed is usually con- structed of stable dung, &c., prepared as already directed for cucumbers. It is cies in the form of the roof of a house, four or five feet wide at the base, narrowing to an apex, which should be rather rounded, three or four feet high, and the length from ten to fifty feet. The dung being laid in alternate rows, with clayey loam, from which the largest stones have been sorted; each layer of dung to be a foot thick, and of loam four inches, so that three layers of each will be sufficient to complete the requi- site height. The dung must be well separated and mixed, and beat, but not trod down. When completed, the bed must be covered with litter or other light covering, to keep out the wet, as well as to prevent its drying; clean dry straw will do, but sweet hay, or matting, is to be preferred. Situation.—The bed should be made in a dry sheltered situation, and on the level ground in preference to founding itin a trench, which prevents the spawn- ing being performed completely at the bottom, and guards against the settling of water, which may chill it. If the site, is not dry, it must be covered with: stones, clinkers, &c., to act as a drain; for nothing destroys mushrooms sooner than excessive moisture, except an ex- treme of heat or cold. To obviate the occurrence of these unfavourable cir- cumstances, it is by far more preferable to construct it under ashed. If it is constructed in a shed, it may be built Sandy against one side, sloping downwards’ from it. To proceed with greater cer- tainty during the winter, a fire flue may pass beneath the bed; but it is by no means absolutely necessary, for by the due regulation of covering, it may always be kept of sufficient temperature. Management.—The spawn must not be inserted before the temperature has become moderate. Temperature.—The minimum is 350°, and the maximum 65°. Insert the MUS 384 MUS re spawn as soon as the violence of the heat has abated, which it will in two or three weeks, though sometimes it will subside in eight or ten days. Spawning. — The large lumps of spawn, being broken into moderately small pieces, are to be planted on both sides of the bed and ends, if it is hip- ped; each fragment just beneath the surface of the dung, in rows six or eight inches apart each way. Some gardeners erroneously scatter the spawn irregular- ly over the surface. Fine rich loam, rather light than otherwise, is then to be put on, two inches deep, the stones being carefully separated. Some gard- eners, endeavouring to imitate the natu- ral mode of growth, spread an inch in depth of mould over the beds, in which they set the spawn, and gently cover it with half an inch more. Others lay a ledge of mould, four inches high, and two thick, all round the bed; upon this close to the dung, they lay the spawn; then a second ledge, six inches, of similar thickness, on this they set an- other row of spawn, and so proceed until the bed is finished ; but this has no advantage over the first mode described, and is much more tedious. Lastly, a covering of straw, six or twelve inches thick, according to the temperature, is to be laid on, and continued constantly. When the earthing is finished, the sur- face must be gently smoothed with the back of the spade, which fixes it pro- perly, and if in the open air throws off any excessive rain. If, after the bed has been spawned and covered up, the heat appears to be renewed in any consider- able degree, the greatest part of the covering must be removed, but restored again during rain, if the bed isnot under cover; and to guard against this con- tingency it is a good practice to mould over only two-thirds of the bed at first, leaving the top uncovered to serve as a vent for the heat and steam, but when all danger is passed it may then be com- pleted. Mr. Haukin, gardener to Capt. Nut- ford, thus completes his preparations: —‘‘In about a week or ten days after- wards, I finish off the beds with green turf, one inch and a half in thickness, making the beds in my boxes, in all about nine inchesin depth. I beat down the turf very firmly with the back of a spade; in finishing afterwards, I have no farther trouble except in paying at- tention to the fire, and in admitting fresh air as it may be required. The house is heated by open tanks, which run through the centre of it, and which re- turn again into the boiler, giving out a sufficient quantity of moisture for the necessary development and growth of the mushroom. During night, the grassy turf becomes copiously loaded with moisture; and should the follow- ing day prove fine, I never omit giving abundance of fresh air by the doorway. The temperature of the house ranges from 60° to 65° during the day, and at night it is frequently allowed to fall as low as temperate. ‘* The great advantiaie of growing the mushroom upon fresh grassy turf is obvious to any one accustomed to its cultivation. I have been in the habit of growing it, and with great success, upon coal refuse for the last two years; and at present I have two boxes at work, one covered with coal dust, the other with turf; the produce of these shows the relative advantage of the two methods, for although those from the coal dust are Jarge and of good flavour, they are decidedly inferior in both re- spects to those produced by the grass covered beds; indeed, such is the supe- riority of the latter, that if the mush- rooms from both beds were gathered, and mixed indiscriminately, any one could, without difficulty, select those grown upon the turf from those raised on the beds covered with the small coal.?*—Gard. Chron. In four or five weeks after spawning, in spring and autumn, the bed should begin to produce, but not until much Jater in summer and winter ; and if kept dry and warm, will continue to do so for several months. A gathering may take place two or three times a week, according to the productiveness of the bed. It some- times happens that beds will not come into production for five or six months; they should not therefore be impatiently destroyed. Watering.—In autumn, the bed will not require water until the first crop is gathered, but it is then to be repeated after every gathering ; a sprinkling only is necessary. In spring and summer, during dry weather, the same course is to be pursued. As excessive or un- equal moisture is studiously to be avoided, the best mode of applying the MUS 385 MUS —_—— water is to pour it through a rose pan on to a thin layer of hay, which has previously been spread over the bed, and thus allowed to percolate by de- grees. In winter, waterings are not al- lowable; to keep the mould moist, hot fermenting mulch may be put on outside the covering. Ifthe bed is in the open ground, in a warm day succeeding to wet weather, it may be left uncovered for not more than two or three hours. During excessive rains, the additional covering of mats, &c., must be afforded ; and on the other hand, if a moderate warm shower occurs during summer after ex- cessive droughts, it may be fully admit- ted, by taking off the covering. Mode of Gathering.—In gathering, the covering being carefully turned off, only such are to be taken as are half an inch or more in diameter before they become flat, but are compact and firm. Old mushrooms, especially, should be rejected forthe table, as it is found that some which are innoxious when young, become dangerous when tending to de- cay ; they also then lose much of their flavour. Each individual is detached by a gen- tle twist completely to the root; a knife must never be employed, for the stumps left in the ground decay, and become the nursery of maggots, which are lia- ble to infect the succeeding crop. Other Modes of Cultivation.—Some gardeners merely vary from the preced- ing by building entirely of dung, with- out any layers of earth. Many garden- cars grow mushrooms in the same bed with their melons and cucumbers. The spawn is inserted in the mould and on the hills of the beds, as soon as the burning heat is passed. : In September or October, when the bines of the plant decay, the bed is then carefully cleaned, the glasses put on and kept close, and when the mould becomes dry, water is frequently but moderately given, as well as every gen- tle shower admitted when necessary. A gentle heat is thus caused, and the produce is extraordinarily abundant, fre- quently two bushels, from a frame ten feet by six, and individuals have been produced two pounds in weight. Mushrooms are thus produced with- ‘out any trouble but the giving moderate waterings until frost prevents their ve- getation; the glasses, if wanted, are then removed, and the beds covered 25 lightly with straw, but not otherwise. The warm showers of the ensuing spring will again cause an abundant produc- tion, as also in the autumn, if left; but the beds are generally broken up for the sake of the dung, and the spawn collected and dried. Hampers or boxes containing about four inches depth of fresh, dry stable dung, or, in preference. of a mixture of three barrow loads of horse dung, and one perfectly dry cow dung, well pressed in, may be set in some situation, where neither damp nor frost can enter. After two or three days, or as soon as heat is | generated, the spawn may be inserted, a mushroom brick to be broken into three equal parts, and each fragment to be laid four inches asunder, on the sur- face of the dung ; after six days an inch and a half depth of fresh dung to be beat- en down as before. In the course of a fortnight, or as soon as it is found that the spawn has run nearly through the whole of the dung, mould must be ap- plied two inches and a half thick, and the surface made level. This mould must be prepared six months before wanted, by laying alternate layers, of six inches depth, of fresh stable dung, and three inches of light mould, to such an extent as may be deemed necessary for the supply of a year; in six months the dung will be sufficiently decayed, and the whole may then be broken toge- ther, and passed through a garden sieve for use. In five or six weeks the mush- rooms wil] begin to come up, and if the mould appear dry, may then be gently watered ; the water being slightly heat- ed. Each box will continue in produe- tion six or eight weeks. Mr. J. Oldaker, late gardener to the Emperor of Russia, introduced a house purposely constructed for the growth of the mushroom. The house is found of great use in storing brocoli during the winter. It is usually built against the back wall of a forcing house, as: in the annexed plan, but if built uncon- nected with another building,.the only necessary alteration is to have a hipped instead of a lean-to roof. The outside wall, cg u, should be eight feet and a half high for four heights, the width ten feet within the walls, which is most con- venient, as it admits shelves three feet and a half wide on each side, and a space up the middle three feet wide, for a double flue, and wall upon it. MUS 386 MUS See When the outside of the house is finished, a floor or ceiling is made over it, as high as the top of the outside walls, of boards one inch thick, and plastered on the upper side, ee, with road sand, well wrought together, an inch thick ; square trunks, f, being left in the ceiling nine inches in diameter, up the middle of the house, at six feet apart, with slides, s, to ventilate with when necessary. Fig. 102. PEE YZ | C) & H | /— To aS L_} LI mS Two single brick walls, v v, each five bricks high, are then to be erected at three feet and a-half from the outside walls, to hold up the sides of the floor ~ beds, aa, and form at the same time one side of the air flues. Upon these walls, v v, are to be laid planks four inches and a half wide and three inches thick, in which are to be mortised the standards, 72 k, which support the shelves. These standards to be three inches and a half square, and four feet and a half asunder, fastened at the top, kk, intothe ceiling. The cross bearers, ii,ii, which support the shelves, o 0, must be mortised into the bearers and into the walls; the first set of bearers being two feet from the floor, and each succeeding one to be at the same dis- tance from the one below it. The shelves, 0 0, are to be of boards one ‘inch and a half thick; each shelf hav- ing a ledge in front, of boards one inch thick, and eight inches deep, to support the front of the beds, fastened outside the standards. The flue to commence at the end of the house next the door, and running the whole length to return back paralleled, and communicate with the chimney; the walls of the insides to be the height of four bricks laid flat, and six inches wide; this wil] allow a cavity, ¢, on each side betwixt the flues, two inches wide, to admit the heat from their sides into the house. The middle cavity, x y, should be covered with tiles, leaving a space of one inch betwixt each. The top of the flue, including the co- vering, should not be higher than the walls that form the fronts of the floor beds. The wall itself is covered with three rows of tiles, the centre one co- vering the cavity x y, as before men- tioned, the outside cavities, ¢¢, are left uncovered. - As the compost, the formation of the beds, &c., are very different from the common practice, I shall. give a con- nected view of Mr. Oldaker’s directions. The compost employed is fresh horse- dung, which has been subject neither to wet nor fermentation, cleared of the long straw, but one-fourth of the short litter allowed to remain, with one-fourth of dry turf mould, or other fresh earth: this enables the bed to be made solid and compact, which is so congenial to the growth of mushrooms. The beds are to be made by placing a layer of the above compost, three inches thick, on the shelves and floor, which must be beat as close as possible with a flat.mallet, fresh layers being added and consolidated until the bed is seven inches thick, and its surface as level as possible. If the beds are thicker, the fermentation caused will be too powerful ; or, if much less, the heat will be insufficient for the nourish- ment of the spawn. As soon as the beds intimate a warmth of 80° or 90°, they are to be beat a second time to render them still more solid, and holes made with a dibble, three inches in diameter and nine apart, through the compost, in every part of the beds; these prevent too great a degree of heat arising and causing rottenness. _ If the beds do not attain a proper heat in four or five days after being put together, another layer, two inches thick, must be added. If this does not increase the heat, part of the beds must be removed and fresh horse-droppings mixed with the remainder. The spawn MUS 387 MUS a is to be inserted in three or four days after making the holes; when the ther- mometer indicates the desired degree of heat, the insides of the holes are dry; and while the heat is on a decline, every hole is to be filled, either with lumps or small fragments well beaten in, and the surface made level. In a fortnight, if the spawn is vege- tating freely, which it will if not dam- aged by excess of heat or moisture, and the beds are required for immediate ‘production, they may be earthed over ; but those for succession Jeft unearthed, three or four weeks in summer, and four or five in winter. If the spawn is introduced in hot weather, air must be admitted as freely as possible until it has spread itself through the beds, otherwise these will become spongy, and the crop be neither good nor abund- ant. The mould employed should be maiden earth, with turf well reduced ; neither too dry nor too wet, otherwise it will not be capable of being beat solid. It must be laid regularly over the beds two inches thick. From the time of moulding, the room is to be kept at a temperature of 50° or 55°. If higher, it will weaken or destroy the spawn; if lower, it will vegetate slowly, and if watered in that state, numbers of mushrooms will be prevented attaining perfection. Water must be applied with extreme caution, being nearly as warm as new milk, and sprinkled over the beds with a syringe or small watering-pot. Cold water destroys both the crop and the beds. If suffered to become dry, it is better to give several light than one heavy watering. Beds thus managed will bear for several months; and a constant supply kept up by earthing one bed or more every two or three months. _ If, when in full production, the mush- rooms become long-stemmed and weak, the temperature is certainly toohigh, and air must be proportionately admitted. As the beds decline, to renovate them, the earth must be taken off clean, and if the dung is decayed they must be re- formed, any good spawn being preserv- ed that may appear; but if the beds are dry, solid, and full of good spawn, a fresh layer of compost, three or four inches thick, must be added, mixed a little with the old, and beat solid as before. Mushrooms may be grown in a cellar, or other vaulted place, with equal suc- cess, and not unfrequently with a greater advantage, the same rules being adopt- ed; but no fire is necessary, and less water. Heating by Hot-Water.—Instead of flues, as used by Mr. Oldacker, the fol- lowing plan, by Mr. Sellers, gardener to L. V. Watkins, Esq., of Pennoyre, may be substituted :— Fig. 103. «¢ This cut represents a section of the interior of the house, with three beds. for mushrooms, a a a, eighteen. feet long, and three feet wide, and three shelves for forcing rhubarb, 666. If circumstances permit, these shelves may be made wider, and used for mush- rooms. Stones are placed on each side of the passage, at cc, for the standards to be placed on which support the bearers of the shelves, and mortised at dd. The stones should be about six inches square on the surface, and three inches thick; and the standards about three inches and a half square. ' 6¢ When the standards and cross- bearers are fixed, the shelves may be formed by laying along the latter boards one inch and a half thick; and it will be convenient, when removing or put- ting fresh dung, if a board eight inches broad and one inch thick is placed be- hind the standard at 7, or cut so as to come flush with it. ‘¢ When the shelves are fixed, a trench, nine inches deep, is made in the passage, m 1 m, for the reception of the pipes; on each side this trencha brick-wall, z 7, is built, to prevent rub- bish from falling in. The bottom of the trench must be puddled with clay, so that the water thrown on the pipes will not escape. MUS 388 MUS Sa ‘¢ The pipes used are about one inch and a half bore, and they are laid in the trench three inches apart; a wooden trellis is placed over them, resting on the brick walls 77, and forms a path. «¢ When the mushrooms want steam- ing, it is only necessary to take a fine rose watering-pot, and sprinkle the pipes with it till the steam arises so thick that objects cannot be seen at the further end of the house. Steaming is better than watering over head for mushrooms, as much water is injurious to the spawn.—Gard. Chron. Spawn, where to be found.—Spawn is constituted of masses of white fibres arising from the seeds of mushrooms that have fallen into situations suitable for their germination, from which it is to be obtained: such places are stable dung-hills, dungy horse-rides in stable- yards, horse mill-tracks, dry spongy composts: the droppings of hard-fed horses also produce it in greater abund- ance than the dung. of any other ani- mal; and more sparingly under sheds, where horses, oxen, or sheep have been kept. The dung of the two latter af fords it in greater perfection than that of grass-fed horses. It has also been found in pigeons’? dung; but the most certain mode of obtaining it is to open the ground about mushrooms growing in pastures, though it is said not to be so productive. Time of Collecting.—It must be col- lected in July, August, and September, being: reckoned in the greatest perfec- tion in this last month. It may be found, however, and should be collect- ed, when it appears in the spring. It generally occurs spread through the texture of cakes, or lumps of dry rotted dung. Put it in a heap under a dry shed; and a current of air, passing through the shed, is of great utility. If kept dry, spawn may be preserved three or four years: if damp, it will either vegetate before being planted, or putrefy. Spawn must not be so far advanced in vegetation as to appear in threads or fibres; for, when in this state, it is no longer applicable to a mushroom-bed ; it may produce a mushroom if left to it- self, but otherwise is useless. Spawn proper for inserting in aebed should have the appearance of indistinct white mould. May be raised.—Spawn is capable of being raised artificially. The following is the manner :— Two barrow-loads of cow-dung, not grass-fed, one load of sheep’s-dung, and one of horses’, well-dried and broken so small as to pass through a coarse sieve, are well mixed, and laid in a conical heap during March, in a dry shed, being well trod, as it is formed, to check its heating excessively. This heap is covered with hot dung, four inches thick, or only with mats if the shed is warm for here, as in all the stages of growth, the heat should only range between 55° and 60°. In about a month the heap is examined ; and if the spawn has not begun to run, which is shown by indistinct white fibres per- vading its texture, another covering of equal thickness to the first is applied over the old one; in another month it will indubitably make its appearance. The time varies from three toten weeks. May be increased.—If a small quantity of spawn only can be collected, it may be increased by the following methods, the first of which is chiefly recommend- able on account of its simplicity and fa- cility of adoption :— Small pieces of the spawn may be planted a foot asunder, just beneath the surface of the mould of a cucumber-bed constructed in the spring. -In about two months the surface of the spawn will assume a mouldy appearance; it may then be taken up, with the earth adhering to it, and when dried stored as before directed. The second mode is variously prac- tised. In the course of May a heap of the droppings of cow, sheep, and horses, or any one or two of them, without the admixture of any undecomposed straw, is to be collected, and one-fifth of road- scrapings with one-twentieth of coal- ashes added, the whole being mixed together with as much of the drainings from a dung-hill as will make it of the consistency of mortar. Being well incorporated, it is then to be spread in a dry, sheltered, airy place, on a smooth surface, and beat flat with a spade. When become of the consistency of clay, it is to be cut into slabs about eight inches square, a hole punched half through the middle of each, and piled to dry, an opening being left be- tween every two bricks. When per- fectly dry, a fragment of the spawn is to be buried in the hole previously MUS 389 MUS —_@—— made: it will shortly spread through the whole texture of the slabs, if kept in a warm dry place, when each may be broken into four pieces, and when quite dry laid on shelves—separate, and not in heaps, otherwise a bed will be form- ed for the spawn-torunin. Mr. Wales recommends the composition to consist of three parts horse-dung without lit- ter, two of rotten tree-leaves, two of cow-dung, one of rotten tanners’ bark, and one of sheep’s dung, mixed to the consistency of mortar, and moulded in small frames like those used by brick- makers, six inches long, four broad, and three deep. Three holes to be made half through the bricks, an inch apart, with a blunt dibble, for the re- ception of the spawn. They should be put on board for the convenience of moving abroad during fine days, as they must be made perfectly dry, which they often appear to be on the outside when they are far otherwise internally. Be- fore they are perfectly dry they require great care in handling and turning, from their aptitude to break; but in about three weeks, if dry weather, when per- fectly exsiccated, they become quite firm. To pervade them with the spawn, a layer of fresh horse-litter, which has laid in a heap to sweeten as for a hot- bed, must be formed, six inches thick, in adry shed. On this a course of the bricks is to be laid, and their holes completely filled with spawn; and, as the bricks are laid in rows upon each other, the upper side of each is to be scattered over with some of the same. The bricks are not placed so as to touch, so that the heat and steam of the dung may circulate equally and freely. The heap is to terminate with a single brick, and when completed, covered witha layer, six inches thick, of hot dung, to be reinforced with an additional three inches after a lapse of two weeks. The spawn will generally have thoroughly run through the bricks after another fortnight. If, however, upon examina- tion this is not found to be the case, they must remain for ten days longer. The bricks being allowed to dry fora few days before they are stored, will then keep for many years. Mr. Oldaker recommends the bricks to be made of fresh horse-droppings, mixed with short litter, to which must be added one-third of cow-dung and a small portion of earth, to cement them together. The spawn to be inserted when they are half dry. Quantity required.—One bushel of spawn is required for a bed five feet by ten; two bushels for one double that length; and so on in proportion. MUSK-FLOWER. Mimulus mos- chata. MUSS/ENDA. Eightspecies. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and eat. MUSTARD. Sinapis alba. Soil and Situation.—It succeeds best in a fine rich mouldy loam, in which the supply of moisture is regular; it may rather incline to lightness than tenacity. If grown for salading it need not be dug deep; but if for seed, to full the depth of the blade of the spade. In early spring, and late in autumn, the situation should be sheltered; and during the height of summer, shaded from the meridian sun. Time and Mode of Sowing.—For sal- ading, it may be sown throughout the year. From the beginning of November to the same period of March, ina gentle hot-bed appropriated to the purpose, in one already employed for some other plant, or in the corner of a stove. From the close of February to the close of April it may be sown in the open ground, on a warm sheltered border, and from thence to the middle of September in a shady one. Both the white and black, for seed, may be sown at the close of March, in an open compartment. For salading, it is sown in flat-bottomed drills, about half an inch deep and six inches apart. The seed cannot well be sown too thick. The earth which covers the drills should be entirely di- vested of stones. Water must be given occasionally in dry weather, as a due supply of moisture is the chief induce- ment to a quick vegetation. The sow- ings are to be performed once or twice in a fortnight, according to the demand. Cress (lepidium sativum) is the almost constant accompaniment of this salad- herb; and as the mode of cultivatien for each is identical, it is only neces- sary to remark that, as cress is rather tardier in vegetating than mustard, it is necessary, for the obtaining them both in perfection at the same time, to sow it five or six days earlier. . It must be cut for use whilst young, ‘and before the rough leaves appear, otherwise the pungency of the flavour MUT is disagreeably increased. If the top only is cut off, the plants will in ge- neral shoot again, though this second produce is always scanty, and not so mild or tender. To obtain Seed.—For the production of seed sow thin. When the seedlings have attained four leaves they should be hoed, and again after the lapse of a month, during dry weather, being set eight or nineinchesapart. Throughout their growth they must be kept free from weeds; and if dry weather occurs at the time of flowering, water may be applied with great advantage to their roots. The plants flower in June, and are fit for cutting when their pods have be- come devoid of verdure. They must be thoroughly dried before threshing and storing. Forcing—For forcing, the seed is most conveniently sown in boxes or pans, even if a hot-bed is appropriated to the purpose. Pans of rotten tan are to be preferred to pots or boxes of mould; but whichever is employed the seed must be sown thick, and other restrictions attended to, as for the open- ground crops. The hot-bed need only be moderate. Air may be admitted as abundantly as circumstances will allow. MUTISIA. Three species. Stove or green-house evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Peat and loam. MYAGRUM perfoliatum. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. MYANTHUS. Fly-wort. Four spe- cies. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood. MYGINDA. Five species. Stove evergreen shrubs, except M. myrti- folia, which is hardy. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. MYLOCARYUM ligustrinum. Half-hardy evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and peat. MYOPORUM. Twelve species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Loam and peat. MYOSOTIS. Eleven species. Har- dy annuals and aquatic and herbaceous perennials. M. intermediais a decidu- ous trailer; M. palustris is the well- known Forget-me-not. The perennials require a moist soil, and may be in- creased by division or seed; the an- nuals by seed, in a dry sandy soil. MYRCIA. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. 390 MYR MYRIADENUS ftetraphyllus. Stove biennial. Seeds. Common soil. MYRICA. Eleven-species. Green- hotse evergreen and hardy deciduous shrubs. The green-house kinds are increased by cuttings; the hardy by seeds or layers. Peaty soil. MYRICARIA. Two species. Hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Com- mon soil. ' MYRISTICA. Nutmeg. Three species. Stove evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Sandy loam. MYROBALAN PLUM. Prunus do- mestica myrobalana. MYRSIPHYLLUM. Two species. Green-house deciduous twiners. Di- vision. Sandy loam and peat. MYRTLE. Myrtus. MYRTLE-BILBERRY. Vaccinium my?rtillus. MYRTUS. The Myrtle. Eleven species, and many varieties. Green- house or stove evergreen shrubs. Half- ripened cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. Water freely whilst they are growing in spring and summer. The common myrtle is M. communis, of which there are several varieties, chiefly character- ized by the breadth and size of the leaves or doubleness of the flowers. Propagation. — By Slips and Cut- tings. — The young shoots, either of the same or former year’s growth, of from about two or three to five or six inches long, either slipped or cut off, are the proper parts for planting, and may be struck either with or without artificial heat. By either method June or July is the best season, especially when intended to use the shoots of the year. The previous year’s shoots will also strike tolerably, especially if plant- ed in spring, or, by aid of hot-beds, may be made to strike root readily at any time in the spring or summer. By aid of a hot-bed both one and two year shoots may be greatly facilitated in rooting. A dung hot-bed, under common frames and lights, will do, though a bark hot-bed of a_ stove, &c., is the most eligible and effectual. Plants thus struck in spring, or early in summer, from plants of the same year, will be fit to pot off separately early in autumn. Choose straight clean shoots, and as robust as possible, which divest of the lower leaves two-thirds of their length; they are then ready for planting. Fill the pots or pans with NAT 391 NAR a light rich mould, in which plant the slips or cuttings—many in each pot or pan if required, putting them in within an inch of their tops, and about an inch ‘or two asunder. Give directly some water, to settle the earth closely about each plant; then, either plunge the pots, &c., in a shallow garden-frame, and put on the glasses, or cover each pot or pan close with a low hand-glass, which is the most eligible for facilitating their rooting. In either method, how- ever, observe to plunge the pots in the earth or hot-bed. Afford them occasional shade from the mid-day. sun, and give plenty of water three or four times a week at least, or oftener in very hot weather ; thus they will be rooted in a month or six weeks. Let them remain in the open air until October, then remove them into the green-house for the winter; and in spring the forwardest in growth may be potted off separately in small pots; but if rather small and weak, or but indifferently rooted, let them have another summer’s growth, and pot them out separately in Sep- tember or spring following, managing them as other green-house shrubs of similar temperature, and shifting them into larger pots annually, or according as they shall require. By Layers.—Such plants as are fur- nished with young bottom branches or shoots, situated low enough for laying, may be layered in spring in the usual way; every shoot will readily emit roots, and be fit to transplant into separate pots in autumn. By Seed.--These may be sowed in spring, in pots of light mould, and plunged in a moderate hot-bed. The plants will soon come up, which, when two or three inches high, pot off sepa- rately in small pots: manage them as the others.——_Abercrombie. With respect to the general hivepiesahe see Green-house Plants. NAILS for training wall trans are best made of cast iron, being the cheapest, stoutest, and most enduring. Before using they should be heated almost to redness, and then be thrown into cold linseed oil. When dry, they have a varnish upon them which pre- serves them from rusting, and prevents the mortar of the wall sticking to them so corrosively as it does if they are unoiled. In drawing old nails from walls, the mortar is not so much dis- turbed if the nails are driven in a little further before they are extracted. Old nails may be renovated by being heated to redness, and then thrown into water : this removes from them the mortar; and then they may be again heated and put into oil as before directed. The cast iron nails used by gardeners are known to the ironmonger as wal] nails, and are described as 22, 3, 4, and 5 lb. wall nails, accordingly as 1,000 of them are of those weights. << Nails in most cases require to be driven only a very little way into the mortar, and wails then do not become defaced by them for many years. In all summer nailing of peach trees, roses, &c., the point only requires to be driven in, so that the nail may be easily withdrawn by the fingers. If these precautions are attended to, and the nails are not driven into the face of the bricks, but between the mortar joints, a good wall wiil last for half a century without requiring fresh pointing, and by nails the branches of a tree can always be better placed than by loops or similar contrivance.’’--Gard. Chron. NANDINA domestica. Green-house evergreen shrub. Ripecuttings. Loam and peat. NAPOLEON’S WEEPING WIL- LOW. Salix Napoleana. NARAVELIA = zeylanica. Stove evergreen climber. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. NARCISSUS. Eighty-five species ; all hardy bulbs, including the Daffodil (N. Pseudo-Narcissus); Two-coloured (N. bicolor) ; White, or Poet’s Narcissus (N. poeticus); Hoop-petticoat Narcis- sus (N. bulbocodium); Small autumn Narcissus (N. serotinus); Polyanthus Narcissus (N. tazetta); Jonquil (N. jon- quilla) ; and Paper Narcissus (NV. papy- raceus); with varieties of each. Characteristics of Excellence.—Mr. Glenny says—‘‘ that in the Narcissi the flowers should be circular and large, they should expand flat, and the cup which is in the centre should stand out well. The petals should be thick, smooth, firm, free from notch or rough- ness on the edges, and have no points. The bunch of flowers should not. con- sist of Jess than seven; the footstalks should be of such length as to allow the flowers to touch each other at the edge, and present an even, though NAR 392 NAR —_»—— rounding or dome-like surface, with one bloom in the middle, the other six forming a circle round it. The stem should be strong, firm, elastic, and not more than ten inches in length. The leaves should be short, broad, and bright, and there must not be more than one flower stem to a show flower. If the variety be white, it should be pure; and the yellow cup should be bright. If the variety be yellow, it cannot be teo bright. Double flowers, and Narcissi of numerous kinds, with only one or two flowers in a sheath, will not be considered subjects of ex- hibition, except in collections of forced flowers.”?—Gard. and Prac. Flor. Propagation. — The propagation of all the Narcissi is effected principally by offsets; also by seed, to obtain new varieties. By Offsets. — All the sorts increase plentifully by offset bulbs from the main roots annually ; and the proper time for separating them is in summer, when they have done flowering, and the Jeaves and stalks begin to decay. By Seed. —It will be often six or seven years before the seedlings will flower in perfection. The seed ripens in June or July, which sow soon after in pots or boxes of light rich earth, half an inch deep, then place them in a full sunny situation for the winter, allowing them shelter in severe frosts. In March or April they will come up. Give fre- quently sprinklings of water, and, occa- sional shade from the midday sun at their first appearance ; and as the warm season advances, move the pots to an eastern aspect, to have only the morning sun till ten or eleven o’clock. In June or July the leaves will decay, when stir the surface lightly, and clear off the decayed Jeaves, all weeds, and mossiness; then sift a little fine mould over the surface, half an inch thick, repeating itin October. Let them re- main till the third year, treating simi- larly ; and in the third summer, at the decay of the leaves, take up the bulbs, and separate the largest, which plant in beds, in rows, five or six inches asunder and three deep; and the small bulbs you may scatter, mould and all, on the surface of another bed, and cover them two or three inches deep with fine earth, which after a year’s growth may be transplanted in rows as above. In these beds let the seedlings remain till they show flowers, and after the second year’s bloom you will be able to judge of their properties, when mark the good sorts, and manage them as directed for the blowing roots. Soil and Culture.—They succeed very well in any good, light, rich earth, in a sheltered situation and eastern aspect, with the beds a little elevated above the common level ; and in win- ter and early in spring give occasional shelter of mats from frosts and incle- ment weather, especially after the flower buds appear above ground. All the sorts of these bulbs, planted in either of the above methods, may be suffered to remain in the ground two or three years, or more, unremoved; however, it is proper to take up the. bulbs in general every third or fourth year, in order to separate the offsets, which in that time will be increased so greatly in number, that the tubes press- ing close against one another, the inner ones will be so much compressed and weakened, as greatly to impede their flowering. But where these bulbs are intended for sale, they should generally be lifted once a year, or once every two years, otherwise, by their growing close in clusters, pressing against one another, they will be flattened thereby, and rendered unsightly, and less sale- able. The proper time of year for taking up all the sorts is soon after they have done flowering, and their leaves and flower stalks attained a state of decay; at which time of lifting the bulbs, separate them all singly, and the smaller offsets from the larger, re- serving the large roots for planting again in the principal compartments ; and the smaller may be deposited in nursery beds for a year or two, to gain strength, when they will become ‘good flowering roots, and may then be taken up at the proper season, in order for planting where wanted. When the roots are lifted at the above season, they may either be planted again di- rectly, or in a month or six weeks after; or may be cleaned and ‘dried, and retained out of the ground in a dry room, two or three months, or longer, if occasion shall require. Method of Planting.—The best. gene- ral season for planting all these bulbs is in autumn, from about the begin- ning or middle of September until No- vember: they will flower considerably NAR 393 NEA —-—¢— stronger, as well as furnish a greater increase of offsets than those planted later, or not till spring; if, however, some roots are retained out of ground until February, they will succeed those of the autumnal planting in flowering. Those in the open borders should be deposited in little patches of about three or four roots in each, planting them either with a blunt dibble, or with ‘a garden trowel, four inches deep. When planted in beds by themselves, have the beds four feet wide, with al- leys, a foot and a half.or two feet wide, between, plant the roots in rows length- wise, nine inches asunder, about four inches deep, and six distant: in each row, covering them regularly with the earth, and rake the surface smoothly. Having planted the roots in either of these methods, all the culture they re- quire is to be kept clean from weeds ; and they will all flower in the following spring and summer. Water Culture.— The Polyanthus, Narcissus, and the large Jonquils, are bloomed in glasses of water in rooms, in winter and early in spring; any of the other species may also be flowered in the same manner; observing to pro- cure such roots as were lifted at the season above mentioned. The season for placing in water is any time in win- ter or early spring, from October till March, observing to fill the glasses with fresh soft water, so full that the bottom of the bulb may just touch it. See Hyacinth. Pot Culture.—The same plants may be brought to early bloom in pots; plant the bulbs in pots of light rich earth during August, and place in a warm room; they will bloom about November.— Abercrombie. NARCISSUS-FLY. See Meurodon. NASTURTIUM. By this name are commonly known two species of Tyo- peolum. T. majus is a hardy annual twiner, and there are several varieties, distinguished by their double or crim- son flowers. J. minus is a hardy an- nual trailer, and a variety with double flowers, is a green-house evergreen. Although strictly annual when grown in the open ground in this country, yet they are naturally perennial, as may be proved if they are grown in a green- house. The Major Nasturtium being the most productive, as well of flowers and leaves as of berries, is the one that is usually cultivated in the kitchen gar- den; the first two being employed in salads and for garnishing, and the last in pickling. Soil and Situation.—They flourish in almost any soil, but are most productive in alight fresh loam. Ina strong rich soil, the plants are luxuriant, but afford fewer berries, and those of inferior fla- vour. They like an open situation. Time and Mode of Sowing.—They may be sown from the beginning of March to the middle of May; the ear- lier, however, the better: one sowing in the kitchen garden, and that a small one, is quite sufficient for a moderate sized family. The seed may be inserted in a drill, two inches deep along its bot- tom, in a single row, with a space of two or three inches between every two, or they may be dibbled in at a similar distance and depth. The minor is like- wise often sown in patches. The ma- jor should be inserted beneath a vacant paling, wall, or hedge, to which its stems may be trained, or in an open compartment, with sticks inserted on each side. The runners at first require a little attention to enable them to climb, but they soon are capable of doing so unassisted. The minor may either trail along the ground, or be sup- ported with short sticks. If water is not afforded during dry weather, they will not shoot so vigorously, or be so productive. They flower from June until the close of October. The berries for pickling must be gathered when of full size, and whilst green and fleshy, during August. To obtain Seed.—For the production of seed, some plants should be left ungathered from, as the first produced are not only the finest in general, but are often the only ones that ripen. They should be gathered as they ripen, which they do from the close of Au- gust even to the beginning of October, They must on no account be stored until perfectly dry and hard. The finest and soundest seed of the previous year’s production should alone be sown; if it is older the plants are seldom vigorous. NAUCLEA. Five species. Stove evergreen trees. Layers and cuttings. Rich Joam. NAVELWORT. Cotyledon. NEAPOLITAN VIOLET. Viola ode- rata pallida plena. See Violet. NEC 394 NET ——~—— NECTARINE. Persica levis. |vated in the Philadelphia Nurseries, Varieties —The following are culti-| and are among the better kinds: EXPLANATION OF ABBREVIATIONS.—Color—y yellow; r red; 0 orange; g green; w white. Size—t large; m medium. Those marked * are clingstones. NAME. Downton ° : ° ° . Elruge . ° . ° ° *Golden - - : Peterborough . : A . *Red Roman F F - 5 3 *White Roman . ; é é White Early g For Culture, see Peach, which applies. NECTAROSOCORDUM sicu- lum. Honey Garlic. Hardy bulb. Off- sets. Common soil. NEGRO-FLY. See Athalza. NEGUNDO frazinifolium. Two va- rieties. Hardy deciduous trees. Seed and layers. Light loam. NELITRIS jambosella. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings and layers. Loam and peat. NELUMBIUM. Five species. Stove aquatics. Seed and division. Rich loam in water. Mr. A. Scott, gardener to Sir G. Staunton, Bart., gives the follow- ing directions for cultivating N. specio- sum :— «¢ Let it be kept dry during the win- ter, in a cool part of the plant stove, atabout 50° Fahrenheit. In February, the roots to be divided and potted sepa- rately in turfy loam; the pots set in pans of water; the temperature of air from 65° to 90°; temperature of the water in the cisterns being about 75°. In May plant out in a water-tight box, three and a half feet long, one and a half foot wide, and sixteen inches deep, filled with loamy soil, having a little gravel on the top to give it solidity, and allowing room for about two inches of water over the surface of the soil. Plunge the box into the bark bed; the temperature of the soil and water in the box 80°. This bottom heat main- tain during the summer, the tempera- ture of the house varying from 65° to $0°.°°—Hort. Soc. Trans. WN. luteum is indigenous to the United States, though only found growing spontaneously in certain quarters, It has been intro- duced into the meadow ditches below COL’R | SIZE c SEASON. e i i leg iil September yo ek ia August 0 mM |2| September og | Mw |2 September ee ee September w si | August w dal | August Philadelphia, where it thrives luxu- riantly. We have seen it finely de- veloped in artificial ponds, evincing that it is of easy culture. NEMATANTHUS chloronema. Stove shrub. Cuttings. Light rich soil. NEMESIA. Four species. Two hardy annuals, and the other green-house herbaceous perennials. The first in- crease by seed, the second by cuttings. Rich light loam. NEMOPANTHES canadensis. Hardy deciduous shrub. Seed and layers. Peat. NEMOPHILA. Six species. Hardy annuals and perennials. Seed. Peat and light soil. - ‘NEOTTIA. Nineteen species. Hardy, green-house, and stove orchids. Divi- sion... Loam, peat, and chalk. NEPENTHES. Two species. * Stove evergreen climbers. N. distillatoria is the Pitcher Plant. Offsets. Coarse peat and moss. Pots plunged in moss, kept moist and at 800; air 70°.2°—Pazton’s Bot. Dict. | NEPETA. Thirty-five species. Hardy herbaceous, except N. angustifolia, which is annual. Seed and division. Light loam. ¢ NERINE. Twelve species. Green- house bulbs. Seed and offsets. Rich light loam. NERIUM.. Oleander. Four species and more varieties. Green-house and stove evergreens. Cuttings. Rich light loam. NES A triflora. Stove herbaceous. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. NETTING is employed to prevent the radiation of heat from walls, and the rude access of wind to trees grown upon them, as well as to prevent the — ee ee ee NET 395 NIC sentence ire ravages of birds upon currants, cher- ries, &c. Netting is a very effectual preventive of cooling, for reasons which will be stated when considering Shelters gene- rally ; and in connection with that, it may be observed that it is not altogether im- material of what substance netting is formed. Worsted is to be preferred not only because it is the most durable, but because it is the best preventive of a wall’s cooling. I have found the ther- mometer under a hemp net sink during the’ night, from two to four degrees lower than that under a net of worsted, the meshes being small and of equal size in both nets. This can only be because worsted is known to be a worse conductor of heat than hemp; and, not absorbing moisture so easily, is not so liable to the cold always produced by its drying.—Principles of Gardening. Netting will also exclude flies and other winged insects from the fruit against walls, although the meshes are more than large enough to permit their passage. Why this is the case is not very apparent, but the netting is equally efficient in keeping similar in- sects from intruding into rooms if there are no cross lights. dows on different sides of the room, and it is to be presumed, therefore, also in a green or hot-house, nets would not be so efficient. It is not a useless scrap of knowledge to the gardener, that one hundred square yards of netting, according to some mer- chants’ mode of measuring,will not cover more than fifty square yards of wall, for they stretch the net first longitudinally and then laterally, when making their measurement, and not in both directions at once, as the gardener must when co- vering his trees. Disappointment, there- fore, should be avoided, when ordering |’ new nets, by stating the size of the sur- face which has to be covered. This may be done without any fear of impo- sition. Mr. Richardson, net maker, New Road, London, informs me, that one cwt. of old mackerel net, weighed when quite dry, will cover eight hundred square yards; and one cwt. of old her- ring net (smaller meshes) will cover six hundred square yards. Mr. Hulme, of Knutsford, has sent me various speci- mens of his nets and open canvass for inspection—some made of woollen and If there are win-| others of hemp: the last does not shrink’ after being wetted like the woollen. I prefer that with about twenty-five meshes in a square inch, at 5d. per square yard. NETTLE TREE. Celtis. NEUROLOMA arabidiflorum. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Common soil. NEW JERSEY TEA. Ceanothus Americanus. NEW ZEALAND SPINACH, Tetra- gonia expansa, is much admired as a substitute for summer spinach, being of more delicate flavor, and not so liable to run to seed. Mr. J. Anderson, gar- dener to the Earl of Essex, at Cassio- bury, Herts, gives the following direc- tions for its cultivation :— ‘¢ Sow in the seed-vessel as gathered the preceding autumn, at the latter end of March in a pot, and placed in a me- lon frame. The seedlings to be pricked while small singly into pots, to be kept under a frame without bottom heat, until the third week in May, or until the dan- ger of frost is past. The bed for their reception is formed by digging a trench two feet wide and one deep, this being filled with thoroughly decayed dung, and covered six inches deep with mould. A space of at least three feet must be left vacant for the extension of the branches. Twenty plants will afford an abundant supply daily for a large fa- mily ; they must be planted three feet apart. ‘¢ In dry seasons they probably require a large supply of water. In five or six weeks after planting, the young Jeaves may be gathered from them, these be- ing pinched off. The leading shoot must be carefully preserved, for the branches are productive until a late pe- riod of the year, as they survive the frosts that kill nasturtiums and pota- toes.”? To obtain Seed.—For the production of seed, a plantation must be made on a poorer soil, or kept stunted and dry in pots, as ice plants are when seed is re- quired of them. On the rich compost of the bed, the plants become so suc- culent as to prevent the production of seed. This vegetable has not proved, in the United States, worthy of its Eu- ropean reputation—probably owing to the intense heat of our summers. NEW ZEALAND TEA. Leptosper- mum scoparia. NICKER TREE. Guilandina. NICOTIANA. Thirty-one species, in- NIE 396 NON -_—_@e——_ cluding N. tabacum, the well-known To- bacco. -This and nearly all the others _are hardy annuals. Seed. Rich light loam. NIEREMBERGIA. Four species. Green-house herbaceous, except the hardy annual N. aristata. Seed or cut- tings. Lightloam. NIGELLA. Fennel flower. Eleven species. Hardy annuals and biennials, except the herbaceous N. coarctata. Seed. Common soil. NIGHTSHADE. Solanum. NIGHT-SOIL. See Dung. NIGHT TEMPERATURE in _hot- houses and frames should always ave- rage from 10 to 20 degrees lower than the temperature in which the plants are grown during the day. It is in the night that the individual functions are reno- vated by a temporary. repose, and if left to the dictates of healthy nature, the sap, like the blood, flows at night, with a much diminished velocity. That plants do become exhausted by too unremitting excitement, is proved to every gardener who has peach- houses under his rule; for if the great- est care be not taken to ripen the wood by exposure to the air and light during the summer, no peach tree will be fruit- ful if forced during a second successive’ winter, but will require a much more incyeased temperature than at first to excite it even to any advance in vegeta- tion. The experiments of Harting and Munter upon vines growing in the open air, and those of Dr. Lindley upon vines in a hot-house, coincide in testifying - that this tree grows most during the less light and cooler hours of the twenty- four. But the hours of total darkness were the period when the vine grew slowest. This, observes Dr. Lindley, seems to show the danger of employing a high night temperature, which forces such plants into growing fast at a time when nature bids them repose. That the elevation of temperature at night does hurtfully excite plants is proved by the fact, that the branch of a vine kept at that period of the day in temperature not higher than 50°, in- hales from one-sixteenth to one-tenth less oxygen than a similar branch of the same vine during the same night in a temperature of 75°. The exhalation of moisture and carbonic acid is propor- tionably increased by the higher tem- perature.—Principles of Gardening. NIPHOBOLUS. Stove ferns. Seed and division. Sandy loam and peat. NISSOLIA. Seven species. evergreen climbers and shrubs. tings. Loam and peat. NITRATES. See Saline Manures. NITTA TREE. Parkia. Stove Cut- NIVEA. Seven species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings. Sandy peat and loam. NOCCA. Four species. Stove ever- green shrubs. WN. latifolia is half-hardy. Cuttings. Common soil. NOCTUA, a genus of moths. The following are injurious to our gar- dens :— N. gamma. The Y, or Gamma Moth. The caterpillars of this are very de- structive to peas and other kitchen ve- getables during the summer. Mr. Cur- tis describes it as ‘‘ being beset with greenish hairs, and on the back with yellow or white ones. It has a brown head. When fully grown, which takes place in the course of a few weeks, it forms a white cocoon, and changes into a blackish brown pupa. ‘* There are three or four generations of moths during the summer, which ap- pear at intervals between April and October. In the latter month, we have seen them fluttering round flowers at dusk literally by thousands: thisremark applies more particularly to the southern counties of England. The wings are about an inch across, the upper ones are varied with grey, and brown, having quite a silvery hue, and towards the centre there is a perfect silvery Greek gamma, jy, with a rusty spot close be- fore it, the lower wings are pale ashy brown, with the nerves and hinder mar- gin deep brown. There are few reme- dies that can be applied to this pest; perhaps the best of all is hand-picking the caterpillars.—Gard. Chron. N. exclamationis. The caterpillar of this moth feeds on the stalks of the potato. NOISETTIA longifolia. Stove ever- green shrub. Young cuttings. - Light rich soil. NOLANA. Five species. Hardy annual trailers. Seed. Common soil. NOLINA georgiana. Hardy herba- ceous. Offsets. Sandy peat. NONATELIA. Four species. Stove Eight species. NOR 397 NOV ———— evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat. NORANTEA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and eat. NORMANDY CRESS. See Ameri- can Cress. NORWAY SPRUCE. Pinus cana- densis. -NOTELAA. Fivespecies. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Peat and loam. NOTHOCHLAINA. Nine species. Green-house and stove ferns. Seed and division. Sandy peat. NOTYLIA. Five species. Stove epiphytes. Offsets. Wood and moss. NOVEMBER is a month chiefly of routine neatness and preparation for winter. KITCHEN GARDEN. Artichokes, winter, dress. — Aspara- gus-beds, dress; plant ; to force; attend to that in forcing.—Beet, dig up for storing.—Cabbages, remove to winter quarters.—Cardoons, earth up, b.—Car- rots, dig up and store, b.—Cauliflowers, attend to, under glasses, &c.—Celery, earth up.— Coleworts, plant. — Com- posts, prepare.—Cucumbers, attend to, in forcing.— Drain vacant ground.— Dung, prepare for hot-beds.— Earth- ing-up, attend to.—Endive, blanch, &c. —Garlic, plant, b.— Herbary, clean, &c.—Horse-radish, dig up and store.— Hot-beds, make for salading, &c.—Jeru- salem Artichokes, dig up and store.— Leaves, §c., continually clear away.— Lettuces, plant in frames; attend to those advancing.—Mint, plant; force in hot-bed.— Mushroom Beds, make; at- tend to those in production.—Onions, in store, look over; plant for seed, b.; —Parsley, cut down, b.—Parsnips, dig up and store, b.; leave or plant out for seed. — Potatoes, dig up, b. — Radishes, sow, in hot-bed.— Salsafy, dig up and store.—Savoys, plant for seed, b.— Scorzonera, dig up and store. — Seeds, dress and store. — Shallots, plant, b.; sow in hot-bed.—Spinach, thin, &c.— Thinning, attend to.— Trench, ridge, &c., vacant ground.— Weeds, destroy continually. ORCHARD. Apples, prune; plant. — Apricots, prune; plant. — Berberries, plant. — Cherries, prune; plant. — Currants, prune; plant; cuttings plant.— Figs, rub off green fruit; train, but do not prune.—Fork over ground about fruit trees. — Gooseberries, plant; prune; cuttings plant. — Mediars, plant. — Mulberries, plant. — Muich round trees newly planted. — Nectarines, prune; plant.— Nuts (Filberts), &c., plant.— Peaches, prune; plant.—Pears, ~ prune; plant.—Plums, prune; plant.— Pruning and planting generally should be done; it is the best season.—Quinces, plant. — Raspberries, prune; plant.— Services, plant.— Stake trees newly planted.— Standards, plant; prune.— Stones of fruit sow. — Strawberries, dress, if not done last month.— Suckers, remove.—Trees for forcing, remove.— Trench and manure ground to be plant- ed, if not done months ago.—Vines, prune; plant.—Wall Trees and Espa- liers generally, prune and plant; it is the best for their winter regulation.— Walnuts, plant. — Water all newly planted trees. — Weeds, destroy ge- nerally, and clean up. FLOWER GARDEN. Anemones, plant, if not done in Oc- tober. — Auriculas, shelter. — Bulbous roots, finish planting in dry weather, b.; cover beds with mats, &c., in bad wea- ther; pot for forcing.—Carnation lay- ers, potted, shelter; finish planting.— Climbers, as Ivy, Clematis, &c., plant and train against walls. — Composts, prepare. — Dahlias, take up after the first frost; dry and store under sand, where the temperature keeps about 40°.—Dressing the borders is now the chief occupation.—Edgings, plant.— Evergreens, finish planting, b.; finish layering.—Fibrous-rooted plants, finish dividing and planting, b.—Fork over borders, shrubberies, &¢.—Grass, roll ; keep free from leaves.—Gravel, weed, sweep, and roll.—Hedges, plant, clip, plash.—Hoeing and raking are the chief operations.—Hyacinths, &c., place in water glasses ; pot for forcing.— Marvel of Peru, take up and store. (See Dahlia.) —WMuilch round shrubs lately planted.— Leaves, collect for composts. — Plant Perennials and Biennials.— Planting |perform generally. — Potted Shrubs, plunge in the earth of a well sheltered border. — Pot Plants for forcing, as Roses, Carnations, &«.—Prune Shrubs generally.—Ranunculuses, plant, if not done in October.—Seedlings, in boxes, NUP 398 NUR a remove to a warm situation.—Shrubs of all kinds, plant; stake them as a sup-: port against boisterous winds.—Suckers from Roses and other shrubs, separate and plant.—Tulips, finish main plant- ing, b—Turf may be laid. HOT-HOUSE. Air, admit as freely as the season al- lows.—Bark Beds, renew, if not done last month.—Dress the borders, by fork- ing, &c.—Fire Heat, by whatever means it may be distributed, must now be dai- ly employed. — Manure borders, &c., in which forcing trees are planted.— Leaves, clean with sponge, &c.; remove those decayed.—Pines will require the day temperature to be kept between 60° and 65°.—Peaches, prune; wash with diluted ammonia water from the gas works, before training ; day tempe- rature 50.°— Potted flowering plants, introduce.—Steam, admit into the house, where that mode of heating is used.— Strawberries, begin to force.—Tobacco fumigations employ to destroy insects. — Trees, in forcing, treat like the Peach. —Water (tepid), apply with the syringe to the leaves; give to their roots, occa- sionally; keep in pans about the house. GREEN-HOUSE. Air, admit freely, when mild.—Chry- santhemums require abundant watering. —Damp stagnant air is more to be dread- ed than cold.—Decayed parts, remove, as they appear.—Earth, in pots stir fre- quent] y.—Fires must be lighted, if frost severe, or heavy cold fogs occur. — Leaves, clean with sponge, &c.—Tem- perature, keep at about 45°, but not higher.— Water moderately. NUPHAR. Five species. Hardy aquatics. Division and seed; ponds, cisterns, &c. NURSERY is a garden or portion of a garden devoted to the rearing of trees and shrubs during their early stages of growth, before they are of a size desired for the fruit or pleasure grounds. As every tenant of the nursery is separate- ly discussed in these pages, no more is required here than to make a few ge- neral observations. Extent, Soil, Situation, &c.—With respect to the proper extent of a nurse- ry, whether for private use, or for pub- lic supply, it must be according to the quantity of plants required, or the de- mand for sale; if for private use, from a quarter or half an acre to five or six acres may be proper, which must be regulated according to the extent of garden ground and plantations it is re- quired to supply with the various sorts of plants, and if for a public nursery, not less than three or four acres of land will be worth occupying as such, and from that to fifteen or twenty acres, or more, may be requisite according to the demand, though some occupy forty or fifty acres in nursery ground. A nursery may be of any moderately light land, that is fifteen or eighteen inches depth of good working staple; but if two or three spades deep, it will be the greater advantage. A good fresh fat soil, such as any good pasture, which having the sward trenched to the bot- tom is excellent for the growth of trees, a rich soil fit for corn is also extremely proper, or any other good soil of the nature of common garden earth is also very well adapted for a nursery. As to situation ; if this is rather low it will be better, because it is naturally warmer, and more out of the power of cutting and boisterous winds than a_ higher situation, though if it happens where some parts of the ground are high and some low, it is an advantage, the bet- ter suiting the nature of the different plants. It is also of advantage to have a nursery ground fully exposed to the sun and air, and where there is the convenience of having water, for the occasional watering. Mode of Arranging the Plants.—In the distribution of the various sorts of plants in the nursery, let each sort be separate, in lines or nursery rows, to stand till arrived at a proper growth for drawing off for the garden and planta- tions, placing the fruit trees, stocks, &c., for grafting and budding upon, in rows two feet asunder, and half that distance in the rows, varying the dis- tance both ways, according to the time they are to stand; the shrub kind should likewise be arranged in rows about two feet asunder, and fifteen or eighteen inches distant in each line; and as to herbaceous plants, they should generally be disposed in four feet wide beds, in rows from six to twelve or eighteen inches asunder, according to their nature of growth, and time they are to stand. . General Culture-—Those designed as stocks for fruit-trees should have their NUR 399 OCT a gees, stems generally cleared from lateral shoots, but never to shorten the lJead- ing shoot unless it is decayed or be- comes very crooked, in which case it may be proper to cut it down low in spring, and it will shoot out again— training the main shoot for a stem, with its top entire, for the present, till gratt- ed or budded. Forest trees should also be encou- raged to form straight clean stems by occasional trimming of the largest late- ral branches, which will also promote the leading top shoot in aspiring farther in height, always suffering that part of each tree to shoot at full length, unless where the stem divides into forks—in which case trim off the weakest, and leave the straightest and strongest shoot or branch to shoot out. at its proper length, to form the top. The different sorts of shrubs may either be suffered to branch out in their own natural way, except just regulating very irregular growths, or some may be trained with single clean stems, from about a foot to two or three feet high. Every winter or spring the ground between the rows of all transplanted plants, in the open nursery-quarters, must be dug: this is particularly neces- sary to all the tree and shrub kind that stand wide enough in rows to admit the spade between; which work is, by the nurserymen, called turning-in, the most general season for which work is any time from October until March. But the sooner it is done the more advan- tageous it will prove to the plants. The ground is to be dug but half spade deep, proceeding row by row, turning the top of each spit clean to the bot- tom, that all weeds on the surface may be buried a proper depth to rot. In summer be remarkably attentive to keep all clean from weeds. The seed- lings growing close in the seminary-beds must be hand-weeded; but to all plants that grow in rows introduce the hoe. As any quarter or compartment of the nursery-ground is cleared from plants, others must be substituted in their room from the seminary; but the ground should previously be trenched and lie some time fallow, giving it also the ad- dition of manure if it shall seem proper. It will be of advantage to plant the ground with plants of a different kind from those which occupied it before. The tender or exotic plants of all kinds require shelter only from frost whilst young, and by degrees become hardy enough to live in the open air. Such of them as are seedlings, in the open grounds, should be arched over with hoops or rods at the approach of winter, in order to be sheltered with mats in severe weather; and those which are in pots, either seedlings or transplanted plants, should be removed in October, in their pots, to a warm sunny place, sometimes sheltered with hedges, &c., placing some close under the fences, facing the sun, where they may have occasional covering, either of glass lights or mats, &c., from frost, observing of all those sorts here alluded to that they are gradually to be hardened to the open ground, and need only be covered in frosty weather. At all other times let them remain fully exposed, and by degrees, as they acquire age and strength, inure them to bear the open air fully, so that, when they arrive at from two or three to four or five years old, they may be turned out in the open ground.— Abercrombie. NUTMEG. Myristica. NUTTALIA. Five species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed anddivision. Sandy eat. NUT-TREE. Corylus. See Filbert. 'NYCTANTHES arbortristis. _ Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and eat. NYMPHAA. Water-lily. Eighteen species. Hardy and stove aquatics. Seed or division. Rich loam in water. NYSSA. Four species. Hardy de- ciduous trees. Seed and layers. Com- mon soil in a moist situation. OAK. Quercus. OBESIA. Three species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings. Sandy loam. OCHNA. Seven species. Stove evergreen shrubs, except the green- house O. atropurpurea. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. OCHROSIA borbonica. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Rich light loam. : OCHRUS pallida. Hardy annual climber. Seed. Common soil. OCTOBER is one of the gardener’s harvest months in the southern section of the Union; in the middle and northern states, his out-door labours are drawing to a close. OcT 400 OCT es KITCHEN-GARDEN. Angelica, sow. — Asparagus - beds, dress, e.; for forcing, plant.—Balm, plant.—Beet take up for. storing, e.; Borecole, plant, b.; earth up, &¢.— Bur- net, piant.—Cabbages, prick out, &c.; plant for seed.—Cardoons, earth up.— Carrots, take up to store.—Cauliflowers, prick out in frames.—Celery, earth up. — Chives, plant.— Coleworts, plant.— Cress (Water), plant.—Cucumbers, plant to force.—Dill, sow.— Dung, prepare for hot-beds.—Earthing-up. attend to. —Endive, attend to; blanch, &¢.—Fen- nel, plant.—Garlic, plant, e.—Herbary, dress.—Horse-Radish, plant.—Hyssop, plant.—Jerusalem Artichokes, stir, e.— Leaves, fallen, remove continually.— Leeks, plant, b.; hoe, &c., advancing crops.—Lettuces, prick out, e-—Mint, plant.—Mushroom-beds, make; attend to those in production.—Nasturtium Berries, gather as they ripen.— Onions, attend to those in store, plant for seed. —Parsley, cut down, b.; (Hamburgh), is fit for use.—Parsnips, take up for storing, e.; leave or plant out for seed. —Pennyr oyal, plant.— Potatoes, dig up, e.—Rhubarb, sow.—Rosemary, plant.— Rue, plant.—Sage, plant.—Salsafy is in perfection; take up for storing.—Savory, plant.—Savoys, plant for seed.—Scor- zonera is in perfection; take up for storing.—Seeds, gather as they ripen.— Shallots, plant, e.— Small Salading, sow.— Spinach, thin, &c.—Stir between rows of plants.—Tansy, plant.—Tar- ragon, plant.—Thinning, attend to.— Thyme, plant.—Turnips, plant for seed ; hoe young crops.— Vacant ground, trench, drain, &c. ORCHARD. Berberries, gather.—-Chestnuts, gather. —Currants and Gooseberries, “plant ; ; prune ; cuttings plant.—Fig Trees, pro- tect when leaves are off.—Fruit Trees, for forcing, plant in pots or in hot-house. —Gathering apples and pears, finish. — Grapes, ripe, gather and hang up, e.; bag on the vines.—Layers of figs, fil- berts, mulberries, vines, &c., make; those of last year take up and plant.— Medlars, gather, e.—Planting may be- gin generally, e.— Pruning, commence, e.—Quinces, gather, e.—Raspberries, prune and plant, if leaves have fallen. —Ridge up ground after pruning is ’ finished.—Services, gather, e.—Stones of cherries and plums, sow.—Strawber- | ries, dress; plant.—Trench and prepare ground for planting. — Wail-fruit and espaliers generally, begin to prune, e.— Walnuts, gather. — Water, give abundantly at the time of planting. FLOWER GARDEN. Anemones, plant. — Annuals, done flowering, pull up; sow hardy, b.— Auriculas, move to sunny shelter ; pro- tect from rain and snow; remove dead leaves; slip. — Bulbous roots, plant; those in flower protect; place in water glasses. — Carnation layers, plant in pots,e.—Chrysanthemum cuttings, finish planting. — Climbers, plant.— Compost, prepare. — Cuttings, plant. — Dahlias, protect in flower; begin to take up roots to dry and storeas the leaves decay, e. —LEdgings, trim.—Evergreens, plant ; trim.—Fbrous-rooted plants, transplant where required ; divide roots.—Grass, mow and roll.—Gravel, weed and roll. Green-house plants, remove from bor- ders to the house.—Hedges, trim; plant; plash.—Hoe and Rake, as. required.— Layers, make ; they will have to remain twelve months .— Leaves, gather as they fall, and store for composts.—Mignio- nette, shelter.—Pipings of Pinks, &c., finish planting to remain,—Planting, generally, may be done.—Potting, per- form as required; dress old potted plants.—Primulas, all this genus (Poly- anthus, &c.) may be propagated by slips. — Prune, generally. — Ranunculuses, plant.—Seedlings, shelter.—Seeds, fin- ish gathering.—Suckers, remove and plant out.—Tvrench vacant ground.— Tuber ous-rooted plants insert, especially Peonies.—Tu7f may be laid. HOT-HOUSE. Air, admit freely every fine day.— Bark-beds, renovate in fruiting stoves and succession house.—Fires must be- gin to be lighted where the old flue system is followed, e. — Flowering Shrubs in pots, introduce for winter blooming.—Glass, Flues, &c., repair, if not done last month.—Pines, remove into fruiting stoves, b.; Crowns plant, if required. — Roses, introduce for Christmas blooming. — Shifting into larger pots may be done.— Water about twice weekly. GREEN-HOUSE. Air, give freely daily, and at nit if temp. not so low as 35°.—Camellias, bud.—arth, give fresh before return- OcyY ing into house.—Leaves clean, and dress. plants before returning to house.— Potted Plants, return all into house, e.; place hardiest back, and tenderest in front.—Succulent Plants should all be in, b—Water, give over the foliage after the plants are in house; give wa- ter once or twice weekly. OCYMUM. Basil. Thirteen species. Chiefly hardy annuals, but. some are stove evergreen shrubs. See Basil. ODONTARRHENA microphylla. Hardy evergreentrailer. Cuttings. Loam and peat. ODONTOGLOSSUM. Eight species. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood and moss. | (ECEOCLADES. Two species. Stove epiphytes. Lateral shoots. Wood and moss. G@DERA prolifera. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. G:NOTHERA. Evening Primrose. Seventeen species. Hardy annuals, biennials and perennials, except the green-house evergreen shrub @. cheir- anthifolia. Seed; and the perennials also by division. Common light soil. SELECT SHOWY SPECIES. Perennials. . Speciosa, white. . Macrocarpa, yellow. . Taraxacifolia, white. . Glauca, yellow. . Serotina, yellow. Annuals. . Rubicunda, pink. . Lindleyana, purplish-rose. . Tenuifolia, purple. . Tetraptera, white. . Odorata, yellow. . Romanzovii, blue. epaeeaeR BRaRS nothera Drummondii, is a fine large yellow sort, and very ornamental, but it is tender, and requires the same treatment as petunias and verbenas.— Gard. Chron. (E. serotina, is a beautiful autumn - flower, and its culture is thus recom- mended :—‘‘ The bed should be looked over every morning, and the flowers of the previous day carried off. This will very considerably add to its beauty. Where a quantity of it is wanted for bedding, May is the fit time to attend to its propagation, by preparing cut- tings (as soon as the young wood has 26 f 401 OLY advanced to the length of one and a half or two inches), pricking them out in sand, in the open ground, and cover- ing them with a hand-glass. If treated in this manner, the whole of the cut- tings may be expected to root, and be ready for planting out in a month; whereas, if deferred until the autumn, when the increase of flower-garden stock is considered en masse, the pro- bability is that not one will succeed.” —Gard. Chron. This mode of culture is applicable to all the perennial species. OFFSETS are side bulbs produced by some bulbous rocts, and by which the species can be propagated. Whatever checks the upward growth of the parent plant, as an early breaking down of the stem, compels the sap to find other or- gans for its reception, and, consequent- ly, promotes the production of offsets. ‘© The practice,”? says Dr. Lindley, ‘ of scarring the centre of bulbs, the heads of echino cacti, and such plants, and the crown of the stem of species like Litteea geminiflora, in all which cases suckers are the result, is explicable upon the foregoing principle.” “OGECHA LIME. Nyssa candicans. OIL NUT. Hamiltonia. OKRA. “The Okra is a native of the West Indies, where it is much used in soups and stews; its use is rapidly increasing here. There are two vari- eties, the large and the small podded or capsuled. ‘«¢ The seeds are planted latein spring, either in rows or hills, three feet apart; the plant thrives readily, and requires no further care than is requisite to keep it free from weeds.”?—Rural Reg. OLAX. Two species. Stove, ever- green climbers. Cuttings. Loam and peat. . OLD-MAN?’S-BEARD. Geropogon. OLEA. The Olive. Green-house and stove evergreen trees, except QO. sativa, which is hardy. Ripe cuttings, and grafting on the Common Privet (Ligustrum vulgare). Loam and peat. OLEANDER. Nerium. OLEASTER. -Eleagnus. OLIBANUM. Boswellia. OLIVE. Olea. OLIVE-WOOD. Ele@odendron. OLYNTHIA disticha. Stove ever- green tree. Young cuttings. Sandy. loam and peat. ) OMA 402 ONI —__@——_. OMALANTHUS populifolia. Stove it large specimens may be rapidly ob- evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings. Peat and loam._ OMIME PLANT. Plectranthus ter- natus. OMPHALOBIUM. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Light loam and peat. OMPHALADES. Eight species. Hardy annuals and herbaceous peren- nials; the first being increased by séed in open borders; the second by divi- sion, in shaded situations. ONCIDIUM. Fifty-nine species. Stove epiphytes. Shoots, moss, and rotten wood. : ONE-SHIFT SYSTEM in potting, is thus described by Mr. Ayres :—‘* The distinguishing difference of this system is, that instead of taking a plant through all the different-sized pots, from a _thumb to a twenty-four or sixteen, or any other size that it may*remain in permanently, it is removed to the per- manent pot at once, or at any rate to one very considerably larger than is the general custom; thus in purchasing small specimens of new plants, they may be placed at once in a twenty- ‘four, sixteen, or twelve-sized pot, in which they will remain for four or five years. <¢ The principal thing to attend to in this system will be.to have the pots thoroughly drained; for if water stag- nates in such a mass of soil, all hope | of success will be at end. In growing specimen plants, it is a good plan to drain the soil with an inverted pot, tak- ing great care to prevent the soil from falling among the drainage by covering it securely with moss. Porous stones of various sizes, in considerable quanti- ties, sticks in a half-decomposed state, and even charcoal for some plants, have been used with satisfactory re- sults. ‘¢ Another very important point to be attended to in this system of potting is, to use the soil as rough as possible. Plants potted in this way will not re- quire so much attention as those potted in the usual manner; because one wa- tering will serve them for several days, whereas in small pots they would re- quire constant attention.2?—Gardener’s Chron. ‘ There is no-douht that this system much abridges the gardener’s labour, and there is an equal certainty that by tained; but as, with due care, magni- ficent specimens may be grown in small pots, annually increased in size when the plants are shifted, the general adop- tion of the one-shift system will never be general, accompanied as it is by such a great sacrifice of space in the stove and green-house. ONION. ‘* The Onion is a biennial plant, supposed to be a native of Spain. The varieties are numerous. Those es- teemed the best, are the Sirver Sxin, and LArcE YELLOw StRaspuRGH; the latter is the best keeper, though perhaps not so delicately flavoured as the Silver Skin. ‘¢ The WETHERSFIELD red is grown extensively in the eastern states, where it perfects itself the first season. ‘‘It is the practice with the market gardeners of Philadelphia, who grow the Strasburgh and Silver Skin, to the exclusion of all others, to sow the seed thickly in beds in the middle of spring. At midsummer they are taken up, and placed in a dry airy situation, until the succeeding spring, when they are re- planted; in this way they get large, firm, well keeping Onions early in the season. It should be observed that if not sown quite thickly they attain too large asize, and when replanted shoot to seed. When sown early, and very thin- ly, on strong ground, bulbs large enough for family use, may be had the first sea- son; they do not, however, usually at- tain a size large enough for the market. When sown in this way, they should be frequently hoed, and kept perfectly clean ; and the Wethersfield is-perhaps the best.-—Rural Reg. To save Seed.—To obtain seed, some old onions must be planted in autumn orearlyin Spring. The finest and firm- est bulbs being selected and planted in rows ten inches apart each way, either in drills or by a blunt-ended dibble, the soil to be rather poorer, if it differs at all from that in which they are culti- vated for bulbing.. They must be bu- ried so deep, that the mould just covers the crown. Early in Spring their leaves will appear. If grown in large quanti- ties, a path must be left two feet wide between every three or four rows to allow the necessary cultivation. They must be kept thoroughly clear from. weeds, and when in flower have stakes driven at intervals of five or six feet on ONI each side of every two rows, to which a string is to be fastened throughout the whole length, a few inches below the heads, to serve as a support and prevent their being broken down. The seeds ‘are ripe in August, which is intimated by the husks becoming brownish; the heads must then be immediately cut, otherwise the receptacles will open and shed their contents. Being spread on cloths in the sun, and during inclement weather they soon become perfectly dry, when the seed may be rubbed out, cleaned of the chaff, and, after remain- ing another day or two, finally stored. It is of the utmost consequence to em- ploy seed of not more than two years old, otherwise not more than one in fifty will vegetate. The goodness of seed may be easily discovered by forc- ing a little of it in a hot-bed or warm water a day before it is employed; a small white point will soon protrude if it is fertile. ONION-FLY. See Anthomyia iid Eumerus. ONISCUS. Woodlice. The first is most easily distinguished from the second by its not rolling up in a globular form when at rest. They are found in old dry dunghills, cucum- ber frames, &c., and they are injurious to many plants, fruits, &c., by gnawing off the outer skin. Gas lime will expel them from their haunts, and two boards or tiles kept one- eighth of an inch apart form an excellent trap.—Gard. Chron. ONOBROMA. Five species. O. glaucum is a hardy annual, and O. ar- borescens, a green-house shrub, the others hardy herbaceous. Seed, cut- tings, or divisions. Common soil. ONOBRYCHIS. Saintfoin. Twenty- threespecies. Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Chalky loam. O. asellus, O: armadillo. ONOCLEA. Two species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed and division. Sandy loam and peat. ONONIS. Thirty-seven species. Mostly hardy annuals and shrubby lants. Seed or cuttings. Loam. -ONOSMA. Sixteen species. Hardy herbaceous, except the stove O. triner- vum. Seed. Rich chalky loam. ONOSMODIUM. Two species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed. Rich light loam. OPHIOPOGON. Three species. 403 ORA Half-hardy herbaceous. Division. Sandy loam and peat. OPHIOXYLON serpentinum. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. OPHRYS. Ten species. Hardy and half-hardy orchids. Seed. Chalky loam and peat. OPLOTHECA. Two species. O. florodana is hardy herbaceous, in- creased by division. O. interrupta isa stove biennial, by seed. Both require loam and peat. _ OPUNTIA. Eighty-seven species. Stove cacti, except O. fragilis and O. missouriensis, which are hardy ; and the half-hardies, O. media, O. polyacantha, and O. vulgaris. Slips, slightly dried; sandy peat. ORACH, Atriplex hortensis, is cooked and eaten in the same manner as spinach, to which it is much prefer- red by many persons, although it be- longs to a tribe whose wholesomeness is very suspicious. Soil and Situation.—It flourishes best in a rich moist soil, and in an open compartment. Those, however, of the autumn sowing require a rather drier soil. Sowing.—It may be sown about the end of September, and again in the spring for succession. The sowing to be performed in drills six inches apart. The plants soon make their appearance, being of quick growth. When they are about an inch high, they must be thin- ned to six inches asunder, and those -|removed may be planted out at the same distance in a similar situation, and watered occasionally until established. At the time of thinning, the bed must be thoroughly cleared of weeds, and if they are again hoed during a dry day, when the plants are about four inches high, they will require no further at- tendance than an occasional weeding. For early production, a sowing may be in a moderate hot-bed at the same time as those in the natural ground. The leaves must be gathered for use whilst young, otherwise they become stringy and worthless. To save Seed.—Some plants of the spring sowing must be left ungathered from, and thinned to about eight inches apart. The seeds ripen about the end of August, when the plants must be pulled up, and when perfectly dry rub- bed out for use. ORA 404 ORC —¢——. ORANGE. Citrus aurantium. See| ‘‘ Two stoves immediately connected Citrus. ORANGERY isa green-house or conservatory devoted to the cultivation of the genus Citrus. The best plan for the construction of such a building is that erected at Knowsley Park, and thus described by the gardener, Mr. J. W. Jones, WEY. " LSS WMO IWS Shs GR aires mise See ee ese eee a ‘¢ Measured inside, this house is four- teen and a half yards Jong, eight broad, and six high. In the centre of the house are eight borders, in which the oranges, &c., are planted ; these borders are all marked a. The two borders against the back wall are sixteen inches broad, and three feet deep. The six borders immediately in the centre of the house are fourteen inches broad, and three feet deep; the paths are marked c, the front wall d, and the back one e; p, p, p, represent orna- mental! cast iron pillars, which, besides supporting the roof, serve also to sup- port light wire trellises ; there is one of these pillars in each row for each rafter. The house is entirely heated by smoke flues, two furnaces being placed at /f. The dotted lines along the central path show the direction of the flues beneath, from the back to the front entrance, when they diverge, the one entering a raised flue, g, on the right, the other also entering a raised flue on the left. These flues again cross the house at each end, and the smoke escapes by the back wall; it being found incon- venient to place the furnaces in any other situation. : with each end of the orangery contain the collection of tropical plants bearing fruit. The communication between these stoves and the orangery is unin- terrupted by any glass or other division, so that the orange tribe are subjected to nearly as high a temperature as the tropical plants. The central borders of the orangery, as may.be seen in the section, are raised a little above each other, as they recede from the front of the house. The oranges, citrons, &c., are all trained as espaliers; a light wire trellis being stretched from pillar to piilar parallel with the borders, and about eight feet high. The spaces, 6, between the borders being about three feet wide, permit a person to walk along between the plants, for the pur- pose of pruning, watering, &c. These spaces are of the same depth as the borders, and were originally filled with tan; but part of this is now removed, and its place is filled with good soil. In this some fine climbing plants have beén turned out, amongst which are several plants of Passiflora quadrangu- laris, which bear an abundant crop of fine fruit. Besides these, there are also two fine plants of the beautiful new Gardenia Sherbournia. These, and other climbers, are trained up the rafters, &c., in such a manner as not to materially intercept the light from the orange. The great advantage of having the trees trained on the trellis system is, that every part of the tree is fully exposed to the light, and by planting them in rows one behind the other, a larger surface is obtained for the trees to cover than could be got by adopting any other plan; and consequently, for the space, a larger quantity of fruit is procured. The trees being hung loose- ly and irregularly to the wires, assume as natural an appearance as circum- stances will permit, and the introduc- tion here and there of large plants in pots has a tendency to prevent formal- ity. Two plants are placed in each border.?»—Gard. Chron. ORBEA. ‘Twenty-three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttingsslight- ly dried ; sandy loam and lime rubbish. ORCHARD is an inclosure devoted to the cultivation of hardy fruit trees. In it may be, as standards, apple-trees, most sorts of pears and plums, and all sorts of cherries, which four are the ORC 405 ORC —_4 — chief orchard fruits; but to have a com- plete orchard, also quinces, medlars, mulberries, service trées, filberts, nuts, berberries, walnuts, and chestnuts must be included. The two latter are par- ticularly applicable for the boundaries of orchards, to screen the other trees from impetuous winds. A general or- chard composed of all the before men- tioned fruit trees, should consist of a double portion of apple trees. With respect to the situation and aspect for an orchard, avoid very low damp situa- tions as much as the nature of the place will admit: for in very wet soils no fruit trees will prosper, nor the fruit be fine; but a moderately low situation, free from copious wet, may be more eligible than an elevated ground, as being less exposed to tempestuous winds; though a situation having a small declivity is very desirable, espe- cially if its aspect incline towards the east, south-east, or south, which are rather more eligible than a westerly aspect; but a north aspect is the worst of all for an orchard, unless_ particu- larly compensated by the peculiar tem- perament or good quality of the soil. Any common field or pasture that pro- duces good crops of corn, grass, or kitchen garden vegetables, is suitable for an orchard ; if it should prove of a loamy nature, it will be a particular advantage ; any soil, however, of a good quality, not too light and dry, or too heavy, stubborn, or wet, but of a me- dium nature, friable and open, with not less than one spade deep of good staple, will be proper. Preparation of the Ground.— The preparation of the ground for the re- ception of the trees is by trenching one or two spades, as the soil will admit. And if in grass, turn the sward clean to the bottom of each trench, which will prove an excellent manure. The ground must be fenced securely against cattle, &c., either with a good ditch and hedge, or with a paling fence, as may be most convenient. Method of Planting the Trees.—The season for planting all the sorts of fruit trees is autumn, soon after the fall of the leaf, from about the latter end of October until December, though it may be performed any time in open weather, from October until March or April; on light land the autumn is usually pre- ferfed, on heavy land the spring is best. \ Let several varieties of each particu- lar species be chosen that ripen their fruit at different times from the earliest to the latest, according to the nature of the different sorts, that there may bea sufficient supply of every sort during their proper season; and of apples and pears, in particular, choose a much’ greater quantity of the autumnal and late ripening kinds, than the early sorts; but most of all of apples; for the sum- mer ripening fruit is but of short dura- tion, only proper for temporary service ; but the latter ripening kinds keep sound some considerable time for autumn and winter use. The arrangement of the’ trees in the orchard must be in rows, each kind separate, at distances ac- cording to the nature of growth of the different sorts; but for the larger growing kinds, such as apples, pears, plums, cherries, &c., they should stand from twenty-five to thirty or forty feet every way asunder, though twenty-five or thirty feet at most is a reasonable distance for all these kinds. Each spe- cies and its varieties should generally be in rows by themselves, the better to suit their respective modes of growth. Stake the new planted trees, to support them in their proper position, and se- cure them from being rocked to and fro by the wind, which would greatly retard their rooting afresh, placing two or three strong tall stakes to eachtree ; but the most effectual method is to have three stakes to each, placed in a trian- gle, meeting at top near the head of the tree, wrapping a hayband round ‘that part of the stem, to prevent its being barked by the stakes or tying; then tie the stakes at top close to the tree with some proper bandage, bring- ing it close about the stem and stakes together, over the hay wrapping, so as to secure the tree firmly in an erect posture. If laid down in grass no cat- tle should be turned in to graze at large, unless the stem of each tree is previously well secured with posts and railing, or wattled with thorn bushes, especially in young orchards, otherwise they will bark the trees; nor should large cattle be turned into orchards, where the branches of the trees are yet low and within their reach.—Abercrom- bie. See Tree-Guard. ORCHIDEOUS PLANTS are chiefly herbaceous, a very few are even semi-. frutescent; but all are characterized: ORC 406 ee either by singular beauty or fragrance; | Eria. and, as many of them are extremely impatient of cultivation, they have of late years obtained great attention from horticulturists; and pre-eminent among these, are Dr. Lindley, Mr. Lodiges, Mr. Bateman, Mr. Paxton, ORC Calypso. Dendrobium. Pleurothallis. Anisopetalum. Stanhopea. Celogyne. Stelis. Malaxis. Cypripedium. Microstylis. Saccolabium. Liparis. Mr. Catley, Mr. Clowes, &c. GENERA. Goodyera. Corycium. Thelymitra. Calanthe. Diuris. Octomeria. Orthoceras. Maxillaria. Cryptostylis. Camaridium. Ponthieva. Ornithidium. Prasophyllum. Pholidota. Calochilus. Megaclinium. Neottia. Ornithocephalus. Pelexia. Cryptarrhena. Listera. Aerides. Stenorhynchus. Vanda. Arethusa. .| Sarcanthus. . Calopogon. Aeranthes. Pogonia. Angrecum. Microtis. Ionopsis. Acianthus. Renanthera. Cyrtostylis. Cymbidium. Chiloglottis. Cirrhea. Eriochilus. Lissochilus. Caladenia. Sarcochilus. Lyperanthus. Geodorum. Glossodia. Dipodium. Pterostylis. Oncidium. Epipactis. Macradenia. Cephalanthera. Brassia. Corallorhiza. Cyrtopodium. Caleya. Zygopetalum. Corysanthes. Catasetum. Prescotia. Anguloa. Gastrodia. Ceratochilus. Vanilla. Encyclia. Orchis. Heterotaxis. Glossula. Eulophia: Anacamptis. Xylobium. Nigritella. Polystachya. Aceras. Gongora. Ophrys. Trizeuxis. Serapias. Rodriguezia. Disa. , Sophronitis. Habenaria. Fernandesia. Gymnadenia. Tribrachia. Platanthera. Gomeza. Chamorchis. Notylia. Herminium. . Bletia. Bartholina. Brassavola. Bonatea. Epidendrum. Satyrium. Cattleya. Pterogodium. Broughtonia. Disperis. Isochilus. ‘| cessary. Tender Orchideous Plants.—Dr. Lind- ley has given the following selections from the foregoing, with statements as to their appropriate modes of growth :— ‘*To grow orchidaceous plants in the highest state of perfection, several houses would be requisite; for exam- ple, there should be acool house for those which inhabit the high lands of Mexico and Guatemala; a warm and moist one for others which grow in the hot damp valleys of India, and other parts of the tropics; a third, kept warm and dry, for containing those which are in a state of rest; and a fourth for plants in flower. But, however beauti- ful and interesting this tribe may be, few persons would go to this expense ; ‘and many have succeeded admirably in growing a selection mixed with other stove plants. It is difficult to give di- rections for the management of a house of this kind without seeing it, but the following should be attended to. Keep the orchidaceous plants as much toge- ther as possible, either at one side, or along the front itself. This is neces- sary in order that they may be kept more moist or shaded than the other plants. If the house fronts the south, shade will be indispensable during bright sun- shine in summer and autumn. The temperature of it during the dull months of winter, that is from November to February, should not exceed 60° by night. As the spring advances, raise it to 65° and 70°, and it may be kept at that as long as artificial heat is ne- If the summer and autumn are warm, no fire will be required for two or three months. Always allow the temperature to sink several degrees. lower at night than during the day. If this is done, and the stove kept damp enough, the plants will be covered with dew in the morning. The following is a list of those most suitable. . <¢ 1, To be grown in pots and placed near the warmest end of the stove. Dendrobium nobile, one of the most lovely yet known. Oncidium papilio, an interesting kind, having flowers like ORC a butterfly. . Peristeria elata, the beau- tiful dove flower. Miltonia candida, Cattleya labiata, C. Mossiea, C. crispa, C. intermedia, C. Harrisoniata: these flower in great profusion during sum- mer, and are remarkable for their great beauty. Cymbidiu sinense, with dingy coloured flowers, but very fragrant. Zygopetalum Mackaii, Z. intermedium, Z. crinitum, very showy and sweet- scented. Brassia caudata, B. Lanceana, and B. maculata. Acanthaphippium bi- color is easily cultivated, and produces a nest of flowers in spring. Gongora atropurpurea likes heat and moisture, the flowers are striking and curious. <¢ 2. To be grown in pots and placed in the coolest end of the stove. Oncidium Cavendishianum produces large spikes of yellow flower. Cattleya Skinnert, Epidendrum Stamfordianum, whose flowers hang very gracefully, and the violet markings of them are delicate and beautiful. Zrichopilia tortilis with finely spotted flowers. Catassetum maculatum, and Phasius grandifolius, which should be kept near the light, and is very thirsty while growing. Mazillaria aromatica and M. cruenta have fine yellow flowers, highly fra- grant. M. tenuifolia has pretty spotted flowers. Cyrtochilium maculatum, and several varieties of it, are well worth cultivation. | «¢ 3. To be suspended in baskets, or on blocks of wood near the warmest end. Dendrobium cucullatum, macula- tum, and fimbriatum, the former with rose coloured, the latter with pretty yellow fringed flowers. Oncidium am- pliatum, large varieties; O. Lanceanum, one of the best of the genus, will also do well in a pot. Aerides odoratum, very sweet; Saccolabium guttatum; both of these want a very warm and moist situation, but their beautiful rose and lilac blossoms will repay any trouble. . “¢ 4, To be suspended in baskets, or blocks of wood near the coolest end of the stove. Lelia autumnalis, L. albida, and L. anceps, are very ornamental, re- sembling Cattleyas. Oncidium leuco- chilum is easily grown, and the delicate white of the lip contrasts well with the brown markings of the other parts of the flower. Odontoglossum grande, whose flowers are very large and par- ticularly striking. Stanhopea tigrina and several other species send their 407 ORC flowers downwards in the same direc- tion as the roots, and have a very curi- _ ous appearance.’??—Gard. Chron. _ Hardy Orchideous Plants.—M. F. Otto has written as follows upon these :— ‘¢The best time for transplanting Orchises is early in autumn, when the plants are in a state of rest, and the cultivator must devise the means of finding them, although they are almost withered upon the ground. ‘¢ They grow much better if placed between other plants, as they find them- selves in their natural] situation. «¢ They should be brought into the garden not only with the whole of their ball of earth, but also with all the sorts of plants belonging to it. They never thrive so well as if they stood among the other plants which naturally sur- round them. ‘¢ Experience has taught that the greater part of the Swiss and Tyrolese Alpine Orchises, as well as those from the south of Europe, are cultivated in pots, but in this situation the plants, weaken from year to year, until the tubercles at last disappear. If we would retain them longer in our gardens, par- ticular attention must be paid to. the soil in which they grow, and it would probably be best to cultivate them in boxes, which may be covered during the winter months. <¢Tt may be useful to those who would collect the northern species into gar- dens, to know the situation and soil in which they naturally grow. ‘¢ Malazis paludosa upon very wet peat earth, among sphagnum. Coral- lorrhiza innata upon stumps of roots in wooded peaty marshes. Liparis Loc- selii, in peat meadows, among sphag- num. Orchis morio, in meadows and pastures. O. palustris, in damp mea- dows, often half under water. O. mas- cula, in meadows and pastures. O. pallens, upon chalk, in mountain pas- tures. O. militans, in meadows. O. fusca, upon chalk, in moantain mea- dows. O.coriophora,in meadows. OQ. ustulata, in meadows. O. globosa, in meadows. O. sambucina, in meadows. O. maculata, in very dry meadows. O. latifolia, in meadows. O. anacamptis pyramidalis, in meadows. O. gymna- denia conopsea, in meadows. O. con- densiflora, in meadows. O. platan- ‘thera, bifolia, in dry meadows, on mountains, and in forests. O. hermin- ORC 408 ORC —_@——_ zum monarchis, in meadows. Ophrys|and the shelves, B 3B, are of slate. myodes, in shady forests, particularly upon chalk. O. arachnites, in mea- dows, also upon limestone. O. apifera, upon limestone hills. Epipogium gmelini, upon mouldering roots of trees, in mountainous woods. Spiran- thes autumnalis, in meadows. Neottia Nidusavis, growing upon roots of trees, in woods. Listera ovata, in damp places, in common woods. L. cordata, in mountain meadows and woods. Epipactis latifolia, in forests. E. atro- rubens, in mountain woods, particu- larly upon limestone. E. viridiflora, in shady places. E. palustris, in mea- dows. Goodyera repens, in fir woods among moss. Cephalanthera rubra, in shady woods. C. ensifolia, in shady forests. Cypripedium calceolus, in shady woods.”»—Gard. Chron. Stove for Tender Species.—The fol- lowing is the plan of a stove for these plants erected at Ealing Park, and for which I am indebted to the Gardener’s Chronicle. ‘¢ The roof consists of three spans, which cover a breadth of something more than fifty feet, and is supported by columns, c c, to which creepers are trained. In the centre is an irregular piece of water, a A, called the ‘ lake,’ surrounded by rock-work edging, heated by pipes passing through it from the boiler B, and containing aqua- tic plants. The flooring of the house Parallel with the shelves, and separa- ting them from the narrow part of the lake, are beds, p p, raised two feet and a half above the level of the floor, and each furnished in the middle with a tank, c c, the water of which is heated by a turn of pipe passing through it. At the north end, the house is closed by a solid wall, covered with bark and rough projections for ferns and such plants, at the other end it opens into what is called the plant house by two doors. The heating apparatus consists of a boiler, B, at the close end of pipes running through the water and under the slate shelves. ' ‘©The heating apparatus,” Mr. Butcher says, ‘‘is found to suit admi- rably as regards the temperature, both of the house and of the lake and tanks of water. The circulation of heat be- ing continued under water, commu- nicates sufficient warmth for the double purpose of creating an evaporation beneficial to the plants, and making the water of suitable temperature when applied by syringe or watering pot. ‘¢ We can always command ten de- grees of heat in this house above the temperature of the plant stove, con- nected with and heated by the same apparatus, an arrangement of some importance, as it allows for placing in the plant stove those Orchidacee which require a lower temperature when in a state of rest. ‘The boiler is formed of cylindrical pipes placed in rows alternately above each other, all heated by one or two fires at pleasure. ‘¢ From the roof as well as from trees placed in the centre of the lake, we suspend the Orchidacee in baskets; and on logs of wood on the two large raised pits and wide shelves around the house, which complete the internal arrangements, we place plants in pots. Those of your readers conversant with floricultural affairs during that period, may remember the many prizes which have been awarded to specimens from our collection, and as this fact forbids the charge of presumption, I will ex- plain our mode of treatment by tak- ing the genus Zygopetalum for an in- stance, ot ‘* When the plants are commencing their growth, (generally about the month of October,) a pot of suitable size ORC 409 ORC —p—— is filled three parts full of potsherds and the ‘remainder with close peat, fastened down with pegs of wood. I prefer close peat for this genus, as I have found it do better than in lighter or more fibrous peat. *¢ The plant so potted is then placed in the Orchidaceous house, tempera- ture ranging from sixty to seventy de- grees, the atmosphere moist, the plant kept moist and more liberally supplied with water as it advances in growth. *¢ When it has completed its growth, it is removed to the plant-stove where the temperature is from fifty to sixty degrees, and water is given sparingly, but the plant is never allowed to be- come quite dry. It there remains un- til it again commences growth, when it undergoes the same routine as be- fore.? Compost.—The best we have noticed is this recommended by Mr. T. Apple- by :— Ne Procure a quantity of sphagnum or common bog moss, have it dried and then chopped small. To this add half- rotten willow or poplar wood, on ac- count of their lightness and the absence of resin, chopped into small pieces of various sizes, the largest not bigger than pigeons’ eggs. To these add the under stratum of sphagnum, which has become almost peat, likewise chopped fine, the whole in about equal parts. ‘© These make altogether a light open compost, which appears admirably to suit the plants, as they root in it freely and thrive; I use it chiefly for the spe- cies that grow upon trees. For such as grow upon the ground, I use stronger compost.**—Gard. Chron. Culture.—The following general sug- gestions are from Mr. Bateman’s most valuable work on the Orchidacee of Mexico and Guatemala :— *¢ Supposing the plants established in a suitable house, then the following rules will be found to contain all that is most essential for their successful management. *¢ Ist. The plants can scarcely have too much light or too little sun. Light prevents mildew, strengthens the fibre, and checks the disposition to throw up a succession of weakly shoots, which are quite incompatible with the produc- tion of flowers. The sun, on the con- trary, scorches and turns the Jeaves yellow, especially when it first begins to shine powerfully upon plants that have just left their winter quarters. In order to secure as much light as possi- ble, many species should be suspended in the air from rafters or chains, some being placed on blocks of wood, (cork- wood is the best,) or fragments of co- coa-nut husks, and others in baskets of wire or wicker work filled with moss and broken peat, or in pots with pierced sides. The latter answer perfectly for plants (e. g. the Saccolabiums) which are of slow growth, and thrust their roots into the air. Baskets answer best for Stanhopeas and the like. To pre- vent injury from the rays of.the sun, shading is of course necessary ; but this should be so arranged as to be easily removed, as it ought not to be con- tinued for more than ten or twelve hours on the very longest summer’s day. Exotic climbing plants introduced sparingly are advantageous, and havea good effect. ‘2d. Take care of the roots. On the health of the roots everything de- pends. The winter is with them the most critical season, for if suffered to grow too dry, they shrivel up and per- ish, if too wet they rot. Much of course depends upon the mode in which the plants are potted, and which should be such as to admit of their readily parting with all superfluous moisture, and to se- cure this, nothing is better than a plen- titul admixture of broken pots-herds. High potting is now so generally prac- tised in good collections, that it is need- less to insist upon its importance. ‘¢ Rapidly growing plants, such as the different species of Phaius, Gongore, Peristeriea, Stanhopee, &c., require to be broken up and entirely repotted every second or third year; on the other hand, there are some air plants, &c., that may remain undisturbed for five or ten years together. 3d. Beware of noxious insects. Or- chidacex are more particularly exposed to the attacks of the following insects : woodlice, crickets, and cockroaches, the thrip, a minute woolly white scale, and a diminutive species of snail, the two last being infinitely the most per- nicious. Woodlice are easily kept in check by placing the plants on saucers, or within troughs filled with water, es- pecially if the valuable aid of a few toads be called in. The Oniscampitre Epiphyte Stand, invented by Mr. Lyons,. ORC 410 ORC ——e— is an ingenious and no doubt effectual way of accomplishing the same end. It is made by merely fixing a forked branch or back of wood, to the raised centre of a massive saucer or feeder, which being kept constantly full of water, forms a sort of foss, impassable to vermin, round the plant it is intended to guard; crickets and cockroaches are. very fond of flour scapes, and to be dreaded accordingly; red wafers scat- tered over sand among the pots are to them very tempting baits, and if swal- lowed, the red lead they contain acts as a poison; but these pests are best de- stroyed by the mixture recommended for the white scale. The thrip does not do much mischief, except where plants are either neglected or grown in too hot and dry a temperature. It usually first appears among the lataseta, and is to be removed by careful wash- ing. Small snails abound in some col- lections, while in others they are un- known: it is difficult to conjecture whence they come, and all*but impos- sible to eradicate them entirely. They batten upon the tenderest roots, such as plants put forth when they are just beginning to grow, and if not kept in check would speedily produce irre- trievable mischief. Lettuce leaves, slices of potato, turnips, &c., are very enticing, and while they divert the at- tention of the enemy from the roots, they also afford an opportunity of cap- turing him. The collections which are watered exclusively with rain water are the least infested. But the worst plague of all is the small white scale, which in its first insidious approaches, appears only as a white speck upon the Jeaves, then covers them with a soft whitish down, and finally kills them. For this the following remedy will be found ef- ficacious, viz.: dissolve half a pound of camphor in a pint of spirits of wine, the result will be an impalpable powder, to which add one pound of scotch snuff, one ditto pepper, one ditto suiphur, and keep ina bottle carefully stopped. This mixture should be dusted over the in- fected parts, and repeated whenever or wherever the enemy shows itself. If persisted in for some time the mix- ture rarely fails to effect a perfect cure; and it has the further good property of acting as a more deadly poison to cock- roaches, &c., which have quite disap- peared in the collection at Knypersley since this. mixture came into frequent use. Besides the above annoyances, the red spider and the brown scale are frequently injurious, but never except in cases of gross neglect. 4th. Give the plants a season of rest. Without a season.of rest most plants’ will not live at all, and others do so very imperfectly. It is easily accom- plished ina variety of ways, either by moving the plants from the warmer to the cooler end of the house, or by di- minishing the quantity of water, or by placing them in a cooler house. Even © exposure in a hot dry atmosphere, al- though it scorches their leaves, not unfreqently throws them into vigorous flower. Plants from the East Indies and from other climates, where the ex- tremes of drought and wet are not felt. so severely as in Brazil or Hindostan, require a season of rest proportionally short, and of a less decided character. ‘¢ 5th. Attend to the condition of the: air. In winter, 600 to 659° is a whole- some temperature for most of the spe- cies; in the summer it-may rise to 70° or 79°, or even higher if derived from the heat of the sun. Where there are two houses, the warmer one should not be lower than 70° even in winter, but, fortunately there are comparatively few kinds that insist upon so hot a berth. ‘¢ The air should always be soft and nearly saturated with moisture. The Jatter should, however, be prevented from dripping upon the plants as it condenses, and this is easily effected by fixing a small copper pipe or piece of channeled wood under each rafter and sash-bar, to catch and carry off the’ water. we aa ** 6th. Do not over-water. This a beginner is very apt to do, and a griev- ous fault it is. When plants do not shrivel or flag, it is a sign that they are content with the humidity that the at- mosphere of the house supplies. When | watering is necessary, it should not be done indiscriminately, but according to the wants of particular plants. It is also of great importance to use rain water only, which may be collected for the purpose in a tank, as shown in the plan of Mr. Rucher’s house, and which should not be applied of a temperature below 60°. ‘¢ Syringing in moderation may be had recourse to in hot weather. Some of: the sobralias, together with bromheadia ORC 411 OTI —_@——- palustris, grow more vigorously if their pots are set in saucers of water during the summer months. ; “¢ To the foregoing rules the following advice may be added. Do not aim at having too Jargea collection, but rather strive to grow a few good kinds in the best style.’? ORCHIS. Thirty species. Chiefly hardy orchids. Seed. Chalky loam and eat. -ORIGANUM. Marjoram. Eight spe- cies and some varieties. Hardy herba- ceous and half-hardy evergreen shrubs. The former are increased by division ; the latter by slips and cuttings. Sandy loam. See Marjoram. -ORMOSIA. Two species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy peat. ORNITHIDIUM. Bro species. Stove epiphytes. ORNITHOCEPHALUS. Two species. Stove epiphytes. Both these genera are increased by dividing the bulbs, and planting them in moss and wood. ORNITHOGALUM. Fifty-nine spe- cies. Hardy, half-hardy, and green- house bulbs. Offsets. Sandy loam and eat. ORNITHOGLOSSUM. Two species. Green-house bulbs. Offsets. Sandy loam and peat. ORNIX rhodophagella. Rose Moth. Mr. Kollar says that—‘ In early spring, as soon as the rose tree begins to bud, if the new leaf-shoots are closely ex- amined, a little brownish seed is found here and there attached to them, in which a worm—the larva of a small moth, is concealed, which gnaws the tender shoots. When it has devoured one shoot it removes, with its house, and attacks another; and thus,-in a short time, one of these larve can strip a whole branch of its shoots. The larva, which lives in the little case, is only a few lines long, yellow, with a black head, and black spotted collar. It un- dergoes pupation in its case. ‘*The moth appears at the end of May. It is only three lines long, car- ries it wings very close to its body—al- most wrapped round it. The whole body is silvery shining gray, the upper wings strewed with minute black dots, deeply fringed at the posterior edge. The moth lays her eggs in May on the buds of the rose tree, and the caterpil- lars are hatched at the end of June. They immediately form for themselves small cases of parts of the leaves, and pass. the winter in them at the root of the rose-tree.”? ORNUS. Flowering ash. Five spe- cies. Hardy deciduous trees. Seed and grafting, or budding, on common ash. Light loam. OROBUS. Thirty-eight species. Hardy herbaceous, except O. sazatilis, which is annual, and O. Americanus, a green-house evergreen shrub. Seed and division. Light loam. ORTEGIA. Two species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed and cuttings. Sandy loam and peat, well drained. ORTHOTZENIA, O. resinella, tur- pentine moth’; O. turionana, bud tor- trix. See Tortriz. ORTHROSANTHUS multiforus. Green-house herbaceous. Seed and di- vision. Loam and peat. OSAGE-APPLE. Maculura. OSBECKIA. Six species. Stove shrubs, deciduous, and evergreen. Young cuttings. Sandy ]oam and peat, OSIER.. Saliz viminalis. OSMITES. Three species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Light rich soil. OSMUNDA. Seven species. Hardy ferns. Seed and division. Light rich loam. OSTEOSPERMUM. Thirteen spe- cies. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Light rich loam. OSTRYA. Hop-hornbeam. Two spe- cies. Hardy deciduous tree. Seed and layers.. Common soil. OTANTHUS Maritimus. Hardy her- baceous. Cuttings. Sandy loam. OTHOUNA. . Twenty-six species. Green-house evergreen shrubs, herba- ceous, and bulbs, except O. tagetes, an annual. This is increased by seed, and the others by cuttings, division, or offsets. Light rich loam. OTIORHYNCUS sulcatus. The suc- culent Weevil. Mr. Curtis remarks that :— ‘‘Sedums, and other succulents, in green-houses, will frequently be ob- served to get sickly, and perhaps dies without any apparent reason. When this is the case they should be carefully examined, and the grubs of the weevil will be found to have eaten off the plant close to the surface.of the soil. <¢ These grubs are about half an inch. long, of a dirty white colour, thick and, OTI 412 OXA es fieshy, slightly curved, and having nu- merous short rigid hairs on the body. About the middle of May these grubs | change into white pupe, which have no cocoons, but are placed in oval cells, in the earth, perfectly smooth on the in- side. They remain in the pupa state about fourteen days, and become bee- tles. In this latter state they are quite black, and the elytra, or wing-cases, are rather deeply furrowed. In the Berlin Botanic Garden they have been found to infest the roots of saxifrages and trollius, growing in the open bor- der, and cause their death. ‘©The only methods of destroying them are, at this time of the year, to examine the roots of sedums and other succulent plants, and crush all that may be found ; and in June, when the per- fect insects appear, to look among the pots, where they are usually lurking, and kill them as soon as they come out, | before they have time to deposit their eggs.”’—Gard. Chron. O.tenebricosus. Red-legged garden- weevil. Mr. Curtis says,— “The maggots of the red-legged garden-weevil are found round the base of the stems of wall-fruit, sometimes in very great quantities, a few inches below the surface, where they undergo their transformations. The beetles, which are old offenders, come out only at night to feed upon the buds of wall- fruit, doing great mischief to apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, &c. They first destroy the fruit, and subsequently attack the bark and leaves, so as not) unfrequently to endanger the life of the trees. They commence their depreda- | tions in April by eating the unexpanded blossom-buds, clearing out the centre, and leaving only the external bractea, and occasionally fragments of the im- mature leaves. They will thus proceed along a branch until all the buds are destroyed, and afterwards demolish the | young eyes which ought to produce | wood-shoots, until nothing is left but the bare branches. ‘©The beetles bury themselves by | day in the earth, close to the founda- tion of the wall to which the trees are trained, likewise round the stems of the trees, and most probably in chinks of the bricks, and other dark hiding- | places. When recently hatched it is clothed with a delicate yellow pube- scence, forming little irregular spots upon the elytra; but they soon wear off and disappear, when it becomes of a shining black, inclining to a pitch- colour. <¢ The larve of these otiorhynci being as destructive as the perfect beetles, the main object ought to be to destroy the former, if possible, in the autumn, which probably would be most readily effected by stirring the earth all along the base of the wall and round the stems of the fruit-trees, and then sprin- kling salt pretty thickly over the broken surface; or salt and water, or, perhaps, liquid-manure, might be equally bene- ficial—if hot the better; for it seems evident, from the peculiar spots in -which they generate, or rather undergo their transformations, that situations sheltered irija great measure from the wet are most congenial to their habits. The beetles can only be arrested by hand-picking, with a candle and lan- tern, and afterwards pouring boiling water upon them, as their shells resist moderate heat.?? —Gard. Chron. O. notatus attacks the young shoots of the raspberry and rose, piercing them to the pith. OXALIS. Wood-sorrel. One hun- dred and twenty-four species. _ Chiefly green-house half-hardy and hardy bulbs, though some are shrubs, others herba- ceous, and a few annuals. The bulbs are increased by offsets, the shrubs by cuttings, the herbaceous by division, and the annuals by seed. They all thrive in sandy loam, manured with leaf mould. See Sorrel. , O. Deppii.—Plant bulbs of this in pots, at the beginning of March, and shelter in a cold pit or green-house. | When all fear of frost is passed plant them ina light soil, and in a southern — aspect, about twelve inches apart each way; or the bulbs may be kept out of 'the ground altogether until the middle of April, and then be planted at once inthe opensoil. It should betrenched, and a little manure turned in with the bottom spit, as for other tap-rooted crops. The scaly bulbs, from which it is propagated, grow in a cluster round the crown of the root. The only culti- vation required, is to keep the crop free from weeds, and to water plenti- fully in dry weather ; otherwise, if the roots are allowed to become dry, they split upon the occurrence of moist weather. Protect from early frosts, in OX-E October or November, by a mat cover- ing. 3 Liscut ten roots are enough for a dish. They are very useful as a vege- table from early in October to the end of December; and Mr. Cockburn, gar- dener to the Earl of Mansfield, at Canewood, thinks they would be more cultivated if better known. An inferior kind has often been substituted for it, viz., the Oxalis Jacquiniana ; but this is distinguished by having pink flowers. In Belgium, the leaves, being gratefully acid, are used for the same purposes as sorrel, and the flowers are mixed with other salad herbs.—Gard. Chron. 182, and Hort. Trans. of Lond. iii. N. S. 30. As it is nota very common vegetable, it may be useful to state, as an improved mode of cooking, that after peeling the tubers, and cleaning out their hollow centres, they must be well boiled in rich stock (gravy), skimming off the fat, and then be served up hot, with a sauce made of a little butter heated until brown, with a spoonfull of flour, and a little of the stock. OX-EYE. Bupthalmum. OX-EYE DAISY. Chrysanthemum leucanthemum. OX-LIP. Primula elatior. OXYANTHUS speciosus. Stove ever- green shrub. Young cuttings. Loam and peat: abundant watering. OXYBAPHUS. Twelve species. Chiefly hardy and halfhardy trailers and creepers. Seed. Common soil. OXYCOCCUS. Cranberry. Three species. Hardy evergreens. See Ame- rican Cranberry. OXYLOBIUM. Ten species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings. Loam, peat, and sand. OXYPETALUM appendiculatum. Stove evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Peat and loam. OXYRIA reniformis. Mountain sor- rel. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Com- mon soil. OXYSTELMA esculentum. Stove evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Peat and loam. OXYTROPIS. Twenty-eight species. Hardy herbaceous alpines. Seed. Sandy loam and peat. : OXYURA chrysanthemoides. Hardy annual. Seed. Common soil. OYSTER-SHELLS. See Animal Mait- ters. . : 413 PHN OZOTHAMNUS. Three species. Green-house evergreen. shrubs, proba- bly hardy. Young Cuttings. Loam and eat. PACHIDENDRON. Seven species. Green-house tree aloes. Suckers and leaves, slightly dried. Sandy loam and ‘calcareous rubbish. PACH Y PODIUM. Twospecies. Green-house deciduous succulents. Cut- tings, slightly dried. Sandy turfy loam and peat. PACHYRHIZAS angulatus. Stove evergreen twiner. Tubers, seed, and cuttings. Rich light loam. PACHYSANDRA procumbens. Hardy herbaceous; and P. coriacea, stove ever- green shrub. Division or suckers. Com- mon soil. PZEDERIA fetida. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich light loam. PAZSDEROTA. Two species. Hardy Alpine annuals. Seed. Sandy loam. ONIA. Peony. Twenty-two spe- cies, and many varieties. The follow- ing are most worthy of cultivation :— P. albiflora, white. — candida, pinky. — fragrans, red. — Humeii, red. — Potsii, crimson. — Richardsonii, white. — rubescens, pink. — albiflora tartarica, pinky. Whitlejii, rosy. — anomala, crimson. — arborea, pink. — aretina Andersoni, rosy. — lobata, purple. — officinalis sabini, crimson. albicans, white. Baxteri, crimson. carnescens, pinky. rosea, red. — paradoxa fimbriata, purple. peregrina Byzantina, dark —— purple. —— compacta, pur- ple. — Russii, crimson. — sinensis, pink. — tenuifolia flore pleno, red. — moutan, tree pzony, purple. | ——_———— albida-plena, white. anemonefiora striata, rose and white. anneslei, purplish pink. Banksii, or Humeii, purple. carnea plena, rosy white. PZO 414 PHO i P. moutan chrysanthemiflora, rose and cream. Compte de Paris, dark rose and yellow. elegans, white and sulphur. hericartiana, bright rose and rosy white. lacera, bright rosy red. lutea variegata, rosy white and yellow. lutea alba, rose and cream. papaveracea, white. —— plenissima, ]i- —Abercrombie. The most systematic mode of pre- serving a constant supply of young wood is that proposed by Mr. Seymour, and described as follows in the Gar- dener?s Magazine :— ‘¢ A maiden plant must be cut down to three eyes, a, and three shoots being produced, the two lower ones are left at full length, and the succeeding spring the centre shoot is again cut down to three eyes. At the time of disbudding the trees all the buds on the lower side of the two horizontal branches are rub- bed off, and buds are left on the upper side of the branches at a distance of from nine to twelve inches from each other. These are suffered to grow five or six inches, and are then stopped ; but still suffering the leading shoot to extend itself. At the second spring pruning, the centre shoot is again cut to three eyes; or, if the tree be very vigorous, five eyes may be left, two for each side, and a centre one for again furnishing leading shoots. The leading shoots are laid in the fan form, nine or ten inches from each other. The shoots on the leading branch are nailed to the wall in summer; but after the winter’s pruning they are tied to the leading shoots to be nailed in, where they get well ripened, and mature their buds for another crop. At the winter’s pruning they are cut to three or four inches, according to their strength. The maiden plant, being headed down the first winter, will present two late- rals, b. The second year, atthe end of Fig. 106. petent supply: remove or reduce some | summer, there will be four side-shoots, part of the former bearers. Cut out' and six or more laterals, c. In the fol- PEA 428 PEA ————— lowing spring pruning, the laterals, d, which had been nailed to the wall, are loosened and tied to their main shoot, e, and the upright shoot shortened to three buds, as before. “¢ At the end of the third summer the Jaterals will be doubled on the old wood by one having sprung from the base of the shoot tied in, g, and another from its extremity, A. In the pruning of the Fig. 107. following spring the laterals of two years’ growth, which had borne fruit, are cut off close, and the young laterals which had sprung from their base, 27, are loosened from the wall, and tied Fig. 108. down to succeed them; the other late- rals, x, are tied in, and the upright shoot shortened, /, as before. <<‘ Now, or before, the side shoots will have to be headed down once or even twice, so as to increase their number, and regularly cover the wall. The ex- tent to which this practice is carried will depend on the height of the wall, and the distance of the trees from each other; the ultimate object being to pro- duce a fan form, as regular as possible, of permanent wood, with no young wood thereon, besides what is produced along the spokes of the fan, on their upper side, at about twelve inches apart, and the prolongation of the shoots. <¢ In the course of the winter or spring of the third year, I shorten the side shoots to about ten or twelve inches, as may be most convenient for wood-buds, to get two principal leading shoots from |each side shoot; the first about three inches from the stem, as the bud may suit, and the other at the end of the shortened shoots, so as to double the leading shoots. The upright shoot is always cut at three of the lowest and | most suitable buds, so that the stem may be kept as short as possible ; for, unless the side shoots are multiplied, the stem gets too high. If the side shoots are strong the year after cutting down, they may be laid in their whole length; but if weak, they must be cut short to give them strength. Continue in this way to double the side shoots for two or three years, by which the tree will get strength, and then it will admit of the side shoot being shortened to about fourteen inches. Cut for two or three years, so as to produce three shoots upon each side shoot, and so continue until there is a sufficient number of leading shoots to furnish the wall. <¢ After the tree has got into a bear- ing state, cut the lateral shoots to about eight or nine inches, taking care to cut at a wood-bud ; and at the time of dis- budding leave the best situated buds, and those nearest the base, for the future year’s bearing.”°—Gard. Mag. _ Thinning.—Let there be a space of nine inches between every brace of fruit upon the weaker shoots, and six inches onthe stronger. See Thinning. Blistering of the Leaf.—This disease, which is called by some gardeners the Bladder Blight, and by the French la cloque, is occasioned by more moisture being forced into the leaves from the roots than they can evacuate by expira- tion. Some gardeners, annotating upon this opinion, expressed by the present writer in the Gardener’s Chronicle in June, 1845, have concluded, because the blistering appears more abundantly when cold nights succeed to hot days, that they occasion the disorder; but they are only the proximate cause 5 those cold nights reduce the expiratory power of the leaves, whilst the roots in a soil of unreduced temperature con-" tinue to imbibe moisture, and to propel it to the leaves with undiminished force. The blistering is, consequently, more extensive. That the force with which the sap is propelled, is quite sufficient to rupture the vessels in the parenchyma of the leaf, is evident from Dr. Hale*s experiment. He found the vine pro- pelled its sap with a force equal toa PEA 429 PEA ——— column of mercury fifteen inches high. There is no doubt upon my mind, that if the soil be well drained, and not too fertile, blistering will never occur. The remedy, therefore, is obvious in either case. Diseases.—See Aphis, Chermes, Honey Dew, Mildew, Exiravasated Sap. Forcing. Any of the early varieties are suitable for this purpose ; success does not depend so much on the kind, as on the management. Form of House.—The best form for a Peach-house, is that thus described by the late T. E. Knight, Esq. Fig. 109. As the lights to be moved to the re- quired extent with facility must neces- sarily be short, the back wall of the house must scarcely extend nine feet in height, and this height raises the rafters sufficiently high to permit the tallest person to walk with perfect con- venience under them. The lights are divided in the middle at the point a, and the lower are made to slide down to the p, and the upper to the point a. The flue, or hot-water pipe enters on the east or west end, as most conveni- ent, and passes within six inches of the east and west wall. but not within less than two feet of the low front wall, and it returns in a horizontal direction through the middle. The trees must be planted between the flue and the front wall, and the other row near the back wall, against which they are to be trained. If early varieties be planted in the front, and the earliest where the flue first enters, these being trained imme- diately over the flue, and at a small dis- tance above it, will ripen first; and if the lower lights be drawn down in fine weather to the point B, every part of the fruit on the trees which are trained nearly horizontally along the dotted line c, will receive the full influence of the sun. The upper lights must be moved as usual by cords and pulleys, and if these be let down to the point a, after the fruit in the front tree is gather- ed, every part of the trees on the back wall will be fully exposed to the sun, at any period of the spring and summer after the middle of April, without the intervention of the glass. A single fire- place will be sufficient for a house fifty feet long, and I believe the foregoing plan and dimensions will be found to combine more advantage than can ever be obtained in a higher or wider house. Both the walls and flue must stand on arches, to permit the roots of the trees to extend themselves in every direction beyond the limits of the walls, for what- ever be the more remote causes of mil- dew, the immediate cause generally appears to be want of moisture or dampness above it. A bar of wood must extend from p to B, opposite the middle of each lower light, to support it when drawn down.—Knighi’s Select Papers. The soil, culture, and pruning are the same as required for those trees grown on walls. Forcing in Pots is a very excellent mode, and enables the Peach to be thus grown in establishments where there is no regular Peach-house. Pota three year old tree in a twelve inch pot, cutting it back to four buds; and shift every year until it has attained an eighteen inch pot, a size which need never be exceeded. Let the soil be turfy, and mixed with decaying wood from the bottom of an old wood stock. Commencing forcing and temperature. The best and most successful directions on these points are the following, given by Mr. W. Hutchinson, gardener at Eatington Park. He says:—‘*‘ Bring the trees into the house in mild weather during November, a little earlier or later according to the state of the weather; do not start them all, how- ever, at once; the last Jot are not put in until the first of January. Any later than this would not answer, as the weather, if clear, is then hot through the day. Commence forcing them at 550° at night, allowing the thermometer to fall to 50° in the morning, if cold, but if the weather is mild, never to fall below 55°; and from that to 60° is the PEA 430 PEA —— usual temperature kept up throughout the period of forcing during the night ; during the day, I make up for lownight temperature, when I have the chance, by sun heat. Do not be fastidious about a few degrees : to get it high enough is the main peint, say from 70° to 85° and 90°, until the fruit is stoned, then keep them very hot during the day, viz. from 95° to 105°, and sometimes even as high as 110°. Of course a great deal of moisture is required with this high tem- perature: syringe over head twice a day, and sometimes oftener when the air is dry, and you will scarcely ever be troubled with either green fly or red spider. Watering at the root must be carefully attended to; very little is wanted until the trees get covered with leaves; but after the fruit is stoned they should be watered plentifully. Ofcourse the watering must be gradually with- drawn as the fruit approaches maturity, in order to increase their flavour.?— Gard. Chron. When the blossoms are well open, impregnation should be assisted by the aid of a camel?s hair pencil. One essential for securing vigorous production in the Peach-house is to have the roots of the trees well nour- ished. If these are not duly supplied with moisture and food during the time the fruit is setting and swelling, a fail- ure of the crop is inevitable. To secure such a supply, it is a most effectual treatment to give the border a top-dress- ing, at the close of February, of charred — turf. Liquid manure and water, of course, must be given also, as the dry- ness of the soil and appearance of the trees indicate are necessary. Standards.—In Essex, I have grown the peach successfully, both as a stand- ard and as an espalier, in a garden sloping to the south, and well pro- tected from the east and strong wester- ly winds. PEAR. Pyrus communis. Of this fruit four hundred and forty-two varie- ties are at present cultivated in the Chiswick Gardens, and these with ma- ny more are described in the Horticul- tural Society’s Fruit Catalogue. The subjoined list, taken from the catalogue of D. Landreth and Fulton at the old Landreth nurseries comprises a selection of choice and approved varie- ties, abstracted from the mass in cultiva- tion, the larger number of which are only calculated to disappoint those who rely on them—either by reason of the inferiority of the fruit, or want of adap- tation to our climate—the latter to a very considerable extent ; how else can we account for the quality of their pro- duct here, compared with their trans- atlantic character ? EXPLANATION OF ABBREVIATIONS.—Colour—g green; y yellow; rus russet; rred; b brown. pyr pyramidal. Size—. large; m medium; s small. Form—obov obovate ; Those marked * are of American origin. NAME. Althorpe Crassanne . . : Bartlett . ‘ ee Se . Bell Pear ohimptial ie 5 4 : Bergamot, Hampden’s : ‘ : *Bergamot, Autumn Bergamotte, Suisse Bergamotte, Easter . Bezi de Lamotte : *Bleeker?’s Meadow *Bloodgood. _ ‘ Beurré de Roi 4 5 ‘¢ = zDiel é . 5 «© de Capiaumont ‘= d’Amalis : ws om fe: ’ 6 ee e co- | LouR.| ForM. |= / 2 SEASON. g obov.. |m/1]| Oct. to Nov. gy pyr L|1| Aug. Sept. g pyr L|2| Sept. Mar. rus round |m/2j| Aug. Sept. rus round |m}|1/| Sept. Oct. yr pyr |m|2j Oct. Nov. g obov. |mj1} Mar. Apl. y round |m/1! Oct. Nov. gy round |mj1/} Oct. Dec. y rus} obov |mj/1j Aug. Sept. y pyr L | 1) Sept: i) wOck y obov, ./ a4‘ Beptep ieee b obov |m/|1} Sept. Oct. b obov |Z }1 |, Sept.) > Oat PEA 431 PEA ——>——— | co- a) 5 NAME. LoUR.| FORM. |%|&| SEASON. —————— - ——| _—— Beurré Bose . : b pyr “| 1} Sept.” Oct. <¢ Summer 2 : Pa y obov |M|1 | July Aug. «¢ d’Aremberg Z i y obov {L/ 1] Dec. Jan. ss - Easter 2 pl g obov |L {1} Oct. Mar. se de Ranz 3 g pyr L|1] Feb. Apl. Buffum . y obov |M|1| Sept. Oct. *Chapman, Carrs : gy obov |M|1| Sept. Nov. Chaumontelle A - y pyr L{1| Nov. Feb. Columbia . : 2 ; ene y obov |L|1 Nov. Jan. Compte de Lamay y obov |M/1f Sept. Oct. Dearborn’s Seedling : : y obov |(M/1| Aug. Sept. Dix : . : - - y pyr L{| 1] Oct. Nov. -Doyenné Gris . : : rus pyr M|1| Sept. Oct. Duchess d?Angouléme 5 y obov |L{1| Oct. Nov. Early Catharine : a y pyr $|2| July Aug. Flemish Beauty Weer y obov |L|1| Sept. Oct. Fondante d?Automne y obov |M| 1] Sept. Oct. Forelle y pyr L|1]| Nov. Jan. Frederick of Wirtemberg y pyr L|1]| Sept. Oct. Gloux Morceau g pyr L|1]| Novy. Dec. Green Chisel g obov |L|2| Aug. Sept. *Haddington, Smith's gy obov |L|1]| Sept. Oct. *Harvard — p rus obov |™M|1}]{ Sept. Oct. *Heathcote : . - y obov JM] 1, Sept. Oct. Holland Green : : g obov {Lj 1) Oct. Dec. La Bon Cure . - ° y pyr L| 1| Sept. Oct. L’ Echasserie g round |M/|1]| Nov. Mar. *Lewis' . - 5 g obov |™M/ 1} Oct. Jan. Leon Le Clere—Van Mons. : y pyr L|1| Oct. Nov. *Lodge . : 2 : : rus pyr S| 1] Oct. Dec. Long Green Mouthwater - - g pyr L|1| Aug. Sept. Louise Bonne de Jersey . , - g pyr L|1| Sept. Oct. Madeline : “ : ° ° ¢g obov |M|1| July Aug. Marie Louise : ; 5 : y pyr L| 1] Sept. Oct. Muscat Allemande - : : g obov’ |L|1| Nov. Feb. Passe Colmar . : : . : y pyr L|1| Nov. Jan. *Pennsylvania - : g obov |L|1| Sept. Oct. Pere 4 ps y pyr L|1| Sept. Oct. Rousselet de Rheims - : . rus pyr L|1| Oct. Nov. *Rushmore é : ‘ “ 2 y obov |m/1| Sept. Oct. *Seckel ° ciate te : . rus obov |S|1/| Sept. Oct. Stephen’s Genessee : - S y obov |™M/1j| Oct. Nov. St. Germaine, Uvedale’s : rus pyr L|1| Nov. Apl. *St. Germaine, Prince’s . : rus obov |L/1] Nov. Jan. St. Ghislan - : : y pyr m|1| Oct. Nov. Sugar . y y pyr L|1| Aug. Sept. Surpass Virgalieu : ; y obov || 1} Oct. Nov. Swan’s Egg. : 3 : : g obov |™m|1| Oct. Nov. Urbaniste z : . : g obov |m} 1} Oct. Nov. *Washington . - : : 7 y obov |m!1} Aug. Sept. Winter Nellis. : : g obov |m|1| Dec. Feb. The annexed outlines ny descrip- have been made as concise as practica- tions of a few prominent varieties will| ble, consistent with perspicuity. For doubtless interest those who may farther information, see Cox, Kenrick, not have access to a work especially | Downing—American pomologists. devoted to fruits. The descriptions PEA AGS, Happineton. (Smith’s.) (Fig. 110.) We have by the merest chance this ex- cellent addition to our stock of winter pears. Mr. J. B. Smith, when on his farm near Haddington, Philadelphia County, in 1828, reared from the seed of the pound pear, a number of young plants for stocks. This one accident- ally remained unworked, and on Mr. Smith’s removal to the city, was brought by him and planted in his garden, where it now stands, singularly erect, and with few horizontal branches. It comes into use in December, and keeps through winter; the skin is green, when ripe slightly yellow on the sunny side, and marked by minute russet dots or specks. The texture of the fruit varies; some are quite melting, others incline to break—it never cracks, bears abund- antly, and we conceive it quite an ac- quisition to our winter pears. ** PEA > PENNSYLVANIA. (Smith’s.) (Fig. 111.) This, so named by the Pennsy|vania Hor- ticultural Society, is a seedling on the grounds of Mr. J. B. Smith, Philadel- phia. The original treeis 35 to 40 feet high, pyramidal in form, of robust habit, retaining its foliage unusually late. Its origin and age are unknown, but this and the Moyamensing (subsequently described) standing in the same gar- den, have recently been recognized by an aged lady, who knew these iden- tical trees when a child. The fruit in outline and general appearance some- what resembles the old Beurré — pre- vailing colour, brownish yellow, ocea- sionally speckled and burnished with brighter yellow on the upper portion, the lower or blossom end presenting a uniform dull brown or russet hue, the sunny side dotted with red. Stem deep brown an inch and a quarter long, PEA 433 PEA —_— Fig. 111.—(P. 432.) standing nearly erect, planted on a full crown; in some specimens one shoulder more elevated than the other. Calyx small, in a shallow basin. Flesh yel- lowish white, rather coarse grained, and somewhat gritty ; flavour notunlike the butter. Ripe, 10th-August to mid- dle September. It isa fine bearer, never cracks, and may be classed among the good American pears. . Moyamensinc. (Smith’s Early But- ter.) (Fig. 112.). This is supposed to be a native. It stands in the garden of Mr. J. B. Smith, Philadelphia, is 28 received the above synonym. thirty feet high, open in growth, and uniformly sheds its leaves early in August. The fruit vary in shape—some are roundish, others obovate: colour, a uniform light yellow. Stem an inch long, in some specimens set in a shal- low basin, in others rising from the crown with a fleshy and enlarged base. Calyx rather prominent, in a shallow plaited cup. Ripe from middle July to close of August. The texture is but- tery, so much like a Beurré as to have It is a desirable variety. ; 434 PEA —_¢—_ Fig. 112.—(P. 433.) CotumsBiA. (Bloodgood. Downing.) (Fig. 113.) An American, as its name implies, produced in West Chester County, New York, where the original tree still exists. This i is truly a valuable variety, in season when most needed— from November to January. Stem an inch long, curved. Calyx comparatively small. Skin, when fully ripe, of a rich golden hue. Flesh whitish, rich and aromatic—worthy of general culture. Sr. GERMAIN of French and English Authors. (Fig. 114.) There are but few winter pears of finer quality than this old favourite ; and were it not particu- larly liable to fire-blight, none would be more cultivated. The outline is fre- quently quite irregular, but in all speci- mens full at the blossom end, narrow- ing towards the stem. The skin is thick, and green even when fully ripe. Stem ‘short and obliquely planted. Calyx set in a shallow basin. Flesh white, and when in perfection, abounding in juice of exquisite flavour. Ripe from December to March. Lewis. (Fig. 115.) This variety de- rives its name from Mr. John Lewis of Massachusetts, on whose farm it origi- nated thirty years ago. It is in season from November to February, and may be enumerated among our valuable winter fruits. It bears most profusely and, though not externally attractive, the skin being rough, would doubtless be highly profitable if cultivated for city sale. Out- line nearly round, a little flattened at the crown. Skin green. Stalk aninch and a PEA 435 PEA ——_+--——- Fig. 113.—(P. 434.) half long, calyx large and open, basin very slightly furrowed. The quality of the fruit, though not “‘ first rate,’ is such as with its constitution and productive habit must insure this variety extensive cultivation. BeuRRE De Ranz, of Thompson. BruRRE Rance, of Lindley. (Fig. 116.) This is 4 Flemish pear, and obtains its name of Ranz from the district in which it originated. ‘It is one of the longest keepers, not being in perfection until spring. Few pears have received more unqualified praise both here and in Eu- rope. The outline is pyriform or pear- shaped. Skin coarse and always green, with brownish dots. Stem upwards of an inch long. Eye quite minute and but littledepressed. Flesh melting, abound- ing in rich and highly flavoured juce. BeurrReE Dieu, of Thompson, Lindley, and others. (Fig. 117.) ‘*This variety, known by a dozen different names, of which that above is most — generally used, and should be alone, is one of the many excellent seed- lings of Van Mons, and named by him after Doctor Diel, a conspicuous amateur fruit cultivator. It has few superiors in its season, September to November (or even December in some climes). We sometimes see specimens much larger than our drawing, and with less elevation of shoulder, but the. sketch affords a fair idea of its average size and appearance. Its habit is ro- PEA 436 —_e— Fig. 114.—(P. 434.) PEA bust, and rather peculiar, from the turn- ing or twisting of its branches. Color varying from light to dark yellow, blended and dotted with brown. Skin thick. Stalk an inch or more in length, bold and curved. Eye set in a shallow basin. Flesh yellowish white, rich and buttery. On trees in vigorous growth and heavy land the fruit is sometimes rather coarse-grained, and slightly as- tringent.””—Rural Reg. - Bartietr PEAR, of the Americans.— Wittram’s BoncHRETIEN, of the Eng- lish. (Fig. 118.) “ This truly admir- able variety is of British. origin, first brought into notice by one Williams, whose name it bears. Many years ago, (1799, according to Downing,) it was imported into Massachusetts by Mr. Enoch Bartlett, from whose grounds, near Boston, it was widely dissemi- nated; hence the name by which it is known among us. The habit of the tree is thrifty and erect, the shoots strong and vigorous. The fruitis large, quite irregular in outline, and varying considerably in different specimens. Skin smooth, yellow, with a slight blush on those which have ripened in the sun, on others entirely destitute of PEA 437 PEA eS Fig. 115.—(P. 434.) red. Stalk about an inch in Jength, one shoulder more prominent than the other; calyx placed in a slightly form- ed cavity. The flesh is white, and combines with a delightful aroma, all the good qualities of the old well- known Beurré or Butter Pear. riously placed, in some specimens the basin is shallow and the curvature regu- lar, in others quite irregular. Skin, green, in well-ripened specimens yel- lowish, and spotted with brown dots. Ripe in October.—Rural Reg. Wasuineton. (Fig. 120.) “ We *¢ Ripe middle of August to close of| have elsewhere expressed our regret September.’’—Rural Reg. Bezi DE LA Morte. (Fig. 119.) «¢ This is a pretty widely known French Pear, and is well worthy of perpetuity, even though not decidedly in the first class.’ Its habit is robust, yields fruit freely, which keeps well; the flavour is aromatic, texture buttery. Its out- line is roundish—flattened ; the stem ander an inch in length. Calyx va- that foreign fruits of doubtful worth, should have been cherished and dis- seminated, to the neglect of unques- tionably fine varieties of native origin. The Washington Pear is a seedling, discovered in a hedge-row on the es- tate of the late Col. Robinson, near Naaman’s Creek, Delaware, some forty-eight or fifty years ago. We are informed by our friend Dr. Thomp- PEA 438. PEA —e— Fig. 116.—(P. 435.) son of Wilmington, that the tree still stands vigorous and healthy, producing from fourteen to sixteen bushels of fruit annually. Doct. T. says, ‘so far as my recollection of it goes, it has never suffered from disease or been attacked by blight, and I have never known the fruit of the original tree, or one of its descendants by budding or grafting to crack, as does the fruit of the old Beurré or Butter Doct. T. adds, ‘ Delaware has some state pride in this pear, quite as much as Pennsylvania has in her fine Seckel, than both of which I have yet to see their superiors among the autumn pears.’ In the opinion of some competent judges he might have gone a little further and said, their equals; and yet from some unaccountable cause, the Washington is comparatively unknown. Coxe does not even name it in his ‘ view of the cultivation of fruits’ published in 1817, and Kenrick from the notice of it in his ‘ Orchardist’? had evidently never seen it. Downing has several typographical errors in his description ; that portion destined to be history, should. be amended in his next edition. “The outline is not unlike that of the old Butter, Virgalieu or St. Michael, as-it is indifferently called, but rather PEA 439 PEA Fig. 117.—(P. 435,). narrower, and in several particulars very closely resembles that famous pear; alas! now in its decadence. It is of medium size, uniformly oval. Skin smooth, yellow, and not unfrequently with a ruddy cheek. Stalk an inch or more in length, usually placed on a full crown. Eye, quite small, seated in a slight indentation; texture that of the Beurré, and exquisitely delicious. Ripe in August (or two or three weeks before the Butter), and continues in season until September.”——Rural Reg. Compete De Lamy—(Fig. 121)—Is a Flemish Seedling of late introduction, and thus far promises to be entitled to our regard ; much more so than a majority of recent importations. There appears to be an unusual diversity in the form or outline of this fruit. Some specimens are roundish, with the stem inserted. obliquely; in others, as in the drawing, on an elevated, irregularly tapering crown. We have seen them so diverse in appearance, as to be scarcely recog- nized as the same variety. Skin yellow, marked on the sunny side by brownish or russet specks. Stalk an inch or: toe more in length, in some nearly straight, in others curved. Eye of medium size, very slightly indented. Flesh white, buttery, sweet and aromatic. In season September and October. BEURRE D’AREMBERG, Of French and English works. (Fig. 122.)—This-Pear, though comparatively little known in the United States, has reached us with a high European reputation, and PEA 440 —o— Fig. 118.—(P. 436.) as both the English and French eoncur in its praise, itmay be safely assumed to be worthy of culture. It was raised by the Abbe Deschamps, in the garden of the Hospice des Orphelius, and has been distributed under several names, as Beurré Deschamps, Duc D°Aremburg, &c. The fruit is large, narrowing to- wards the crown. Skin pale, or yellow- ish green, dotted with russet, which PEA grows brighter at maturity. Calyx com- paratively small, deeply planted. Flesh white, very juicy, and unusually high flavoured. In season from mid-winter to spring. _ Petre. (Fig. 123.) “ One of the many good fruits of American origin, compa- ratively unknown ; whilst foreign varie- ties of less worth have been lauded and disseminated. The parent still exists, in PEA 441 PEA ie Fig. 119.—(P. 437.) £¢ green old age,’ at the Bartram Gar- den, on the Schuylkill, three miles from Philadelphia. It is the product of seed contributed by Lord Petré to the vene- rable Bartram in 1735. We have fre- quently heard Mr. Carr, a connection of the Bartram family, and present owner of the grounds, relate its history; a pleasing incident in which, was the pre- sentation to Lord P. after the lapse of a quarter of a century, of fruit, the pro- duct of the identical seed he had con- tributed. We do not think this pear should be placed in the first class, yet award it high praise, and advise its extensive culture. The flesh is buttery, aromatic, and closely resembles its pa- rent the Beurré, or Butter. Fruit of medium size, yellow,occasionally slight- ly marked by russet dots. Stem an inch long, planted in some specimens between elevated shoulders. Eye set in a shallow basin. Ripe close of Sep- tember, and admits of being kept seve- ral weeks.”?»—Rural Reg. Passe Cormar. Lind.: Thomp.: and others. (Fig. 125.) For this, as well as some other important varieties, we are indebted to Hardenpont of Belgium. It is in eating during winter, and as our resources at that season are limit- ed, is additionally valuable. There is considerable variation in its outline. The skin coarse, yellowish when ripe, marked by minute russet dots. Stem prominent, an inch or more in length, inserted between elevated shoulders in many specimens, in others with little or no peculiarity of that kind. The flesh is melting, abounding with rich aro- PEA 442 PEA ——_o—_—— Fig. 120.—(P. 437.) matic juice. On the whole this pear grow luxuriantly in good soil on a dry has few superiors in its season, and is deservedly a favourite. : Propagation. — By Seed, to obtain varieties, is best practised by following the directions for raising seedling Ap- ples. For raising grafting stocks, the seeds of the wild pear should be em- ployed, the produce being hardy. Grafting and Budding.—Mr. Loudon has collected together the following good directions upon these subjects :— <¢ The most common stocks for graft- ing the pear, are the common pear and the wilding; but as the apple, is dwarfed and brought more early into a bearing state by grafting on the pawell, on the white beam, medlar, service, or apple; but the wilding and quince are in most general use. Pears, on free stocks, bottom; those on wildings grow less rapidly, but are deemed more durable, and they will thrive on the poorest soil, if a hardy variety and not over pruned.” “¢On the quince,” Miller observes, ‘¢breaking pears are rendered gritty and stony; but the melting sorts are ‘much improved; trees on these stocks may be planted in a moist soil with more success than those on wildings or thorns.*? On the thorn, pears come very early into bearing, continue pro- lific, and, in respect to soil will thrive well ona strong clay, which is unsuita- ble both to those on quinces and wild- ings; and the grafts or buds require to be inserted very low that the moisture of the earth may tend to favour the swelling or enlargement of the diame- PEA 443 PEA —e— Fig. 121.—(P, 439.) ter of the stock, which does not increase proportionally to, nor ever attains the same size as the stem of the pear. Du- breuil, a French gardener, recommends the quince stock for clayey and light soils, and the free stock for chalky and siliceous soils.—Enc. Gard. The suggestion of Mr. D. Mont- gomery, gardener to the duke of Mont- rose, is also worthy of adoption, viz., that by grafting the alternate branches of late pear-trees with early sorts, and early trees with late sorts, there are two chances of success, the early sort being very early in blossom; if that fails in consequence. of unfavourable weather, the late sort, flowering at another time, may succeed. Farther, the early sort ripens off before much effort is required from the tree to support the late sort; hence, each sort in its season is brought to greater maturity.—Hort. Trans. Soil.—A dry loam, when the pear is grafted upon a pear stock ; but moister, if grafted upon the quince, is suitable. Two feet depth of soil is required, and tiles should be placed beneath the young trees to prevent their rooting deeper. If this be attended to, and the soil be thoroughly underdrained, the subsoil is not of much consequence. A gravelly subsoil is to be preferred.. Pruning Standards is not often re- quired, and when necessary it is only to remove crowded, diseased, and cross- growing branches. This may be done at any season, unless the branch to be removed is large, in which case it had better be amputated early in the spring, before the sap is in motion. Their PEA 444 - PEA 4 —e— Fig. 122.—(P. 439.) im fruitfulness is increased if the branches are fastened down, so that their points are below the level of their bases. The shoots of the current year are bent down when fully grown, about the end of July, and fixed in a pendent position by shreds of bass ; in the course of the winter, these shreds are removed to admit of pruning, when the shoots are found to have taken a set; in the course of the summer, such as grow vigorously are again tied, the object being to check the vigour of the young shoots, and by impeding the return of the sap, to cause it to expend itself in these young shoots in the formation of blossom buds. — Gard. Mag. See Quenouille. Culture of Wall Trees.—The follow- ing are the best directions that have been given on this subject:—* Plant the trees against the wall, fifteen feet from each other. If they have three shoots properly placed, they may all be retained. If only one strong healthy shoot, in the spring the first tree is to be headed down within nine inches high, the next to that one foot nine inches, and so on alternately, till you get to the other end of the wall. **In the summer, train three shoots from the three uppermost eyes of each tree, rubbing off all the rest. Nail in one to the right, one to the left, and the other perpendicularly. The two side branches should not be trained in a horizontal position till the second year. In the following winter, the centre shoot of each is to be cut off two feet above the first pair of lateral branches. PEA 445 PEA buds are to be trained one on each side, perfectly horizontal, and the mid- dle one upright; should the centre this season grow vigorously, and advance two feet before, the end of June, top it at that height with the thumb and finger. Three shoots may probably start from the three upper eyes; if so, nail them in an easy position, and bring them to their proper places in the winter prun- _ing; but most probably only two will break. In this case, as soon as they are six inches long, train them both on the opposite side from which you wish a third shoot, and rather Jower than the horizontal line; this will cause the next bud below the two shoots already ob- tained to start. As soon as this advances a few inches, restore the shoots from the top bud to an erect position, and the other about half the way between the horizontal and perpendicular line; observing, if one of the side shoots gets weat— ‘* In the next summer, the three top | the advantage of the other, to depress the strong or elevate the weak as oc- casion may require; by which means both will be kept of an equal length. Fig. 124. = ==} 1 a - - 7 es see Ee ee. oe ‘¢If by the autumn the centre shoot has not advanced two feet, or if it does not appear to have ripened, cut the three summer shoots off within half an inch of the place from whence they sprang; there will then be an upright centre two feet above the second pair of horizontal branches, which will not fail to push vigorously the next spring, and although in this case only one pair of branches will be produced this sea- PEA 446 PEA — te Fig. 125.—(P. 441.) ’ son, the tree will be much benefited from having the upright shoot topped, as the sap by this check will be forced into the horizontal branches below, which are often starved by the prodi- gious and in a great measure useless growth of the centre. All superfluous shoots are to be. pinched off within an inch or two as they appear, and, as far as may be, without leaving the branch absolutely bare, and entirely cut out in the winter pruning. <¢ This treatment is to be repeated till those trees which have their first pair of horizontal branches within nine inches of the ground, arrive within two feet or eighteen inches of the top of the wall. These trees are to be considered per- manent; those’ which have no branch till they are one foot. nine inches high, are for a temporary purpose only, and they may have a pair of branches within four inches of the top of the wall. «‘In ten years, we will suppose, ona twelve feet wall, most of the branches will reach twelve or thirteen feet from PEA 447 PEA ——_o— the stem. The wall, therefore, presents somewhat the appearance of the follow- ing figure. ‘¢ Hitherto it is obvious, that as we have doubled the number of trees, and each tree has produced as many, or perhaps more branches than are capable of bearing fruit, and those owing to stopping the leader longer than usual ; so we must up to this time have double, or more than double, the usual quantity of fruit. ‘¢ After the temporary trees are re- moved, the crops will be still larger. Riders would not have answered the same purpose, as they would have al- ready interfered for the last two or three years with the principals, that is, on a wall not exceeding twelve feet; and on this plan the temporary trees are to be trained three or four years longer, during which time they may be expected to pro- duce considerable crops. The extremi- ties of the horizontal branch being now within a foot or two of the:stem of the next tree, the management of the permanent trees is to be altered. Instead of pinch- ing off all shoots as they appear, at every fifteen or eighteen inches all along the horizontal branches, retain a well-placed shoot in an easy slanting position upwards, towards the branches of the temporary trees. Next year continue to train them in the same di- rection; and, in order to give them more room, elevate the branches of the temporary trees six inches above the place they have hitherto occupied. *¢ The third year the shoots will most likely show blossom; the free bearing sorts will do so in two years; but it must be recollected, we are speaking exclusively of the shy bearers. If plenty of blossom appears, the tempo- rary trees may now be taken up and planted in, otherwise they may remain another year. After the temporary trees are removed, the young shoots, which we will suppose are now fully furnished with blossom buds, may be trained in a direction sufficiently sloping upwards for the terminal bud of each to be within four or five inches of the horizontal branch above. << If they show a disposition to grow too strong, they may be deeply notched, or a ring may be made round such as require it, about the eighth of an inch wide. In either case, Jet it be close to the branch from which the shoots spring. As they become diseased or worn out, or have produced long spurs, train in a young. shoot by the side of any it may be proper to displace, and after the se- cond year cut the old one out. Incase a tree, after it has filled the space allowed, continues very luxuriant in growth, recourse may be had to the usual methods of checking it, either by cutting the roots or sawing the stem half or two-thirds through, just below the surface of the ground, or deep notches may be made on each side with the chisel. A single tree may of course be treated according to this plan. ‘* The temporary trees, if taken up with care, will certainly grow, and be found very valuable ; they may be either planted against another wall, or if of sufficiently hardy kinds, treated as espa- liers, cutting off the two or three upper pairs of branches ; in either case, young shoots are to be trained in between the old ones, as already directed for the permanent trees. Should you have a wall with an aspect not sufficiently good to ripen the fruit of these removed trees, or should they be of those kinds which will not come to perfection as espaliers, they will nevertheless still be valuable in this case. After they have been removed a twelvemonth, treat them according to Mr. Knight’s mode of changing the sort; that is, leave the horizontals at very nearly the full length, but cut off all the spurs, leaving only bare poles at every twelve, fifteen, or eighteen inches, according to the growth of the sort you intend to in- troduce. Fig. 127. = SSS = <=. SSE <= POMORORGEE. Fossa 5. ‘¢On the upper side, all along the PEA branches, make a notch a little deeper than the bark; it may be done by two cuts witha sharp knife, the side nearest the trunk being perpendicular, the other sloping ; the graft may then be intro- duced by the common mode of crown- grafting. Train the shoots from the grafts as before directed. In two years and a half most kinds will produce an abundant crop, and the trees will be very nearly as large as those on the wall from whence they were taken; thus having an advantage over young trees of at least ten years.”—Gard. Mag. In pruning pear ised, never cut off a shoot which can be laid to the wall ; for by cutting off the foreright shoots you produce a succession of the same without a chance of producing fruit. By laying in these shoots, less wood is produced; and those buds either on the old wood, or any short spurs which otherwise would have produced only wood shoots, bear a succession of blos- som.—Gard. Chron. Impregnating: the Blossom of Wail Trees.—Mr. Harrison truly observes, that ‘it is very usual to see healthy pear trees produce an abundance of bloom, but set a very small proportion of fruit: this is particularly the case with the tenderest kinds. The reason is in some cases from the stamina being destitute of farina; and in others, from the farina having been dispersed before the pistils had arrived at a proper state for its reception. To remedy this, as soon as the first blossoms have ex- panded, and the pistillum is in a proper state of maturity, impregnate six upon each corymb of blossom. The florets to choose for this operation are those situated nearest the origin of the spur; for when pears set naturally, it is very generally such florets. The time for this operation is calm, dry days, and, if possible, when the sun is not very hot upon the trees. Immediately after- wards give each tree about eighteen gallons of manure water, or soft pond water, at the roots. The trees should never be washed over the tops for a considerable time after this impregna- tion has been effected.”"—Treat. on Fruit Trees. PEAT-EARTH. See Bog Earth. PEAT-EARTH PLANTS. See Ame- rican Plants. PEC TINARIA articulata. Stove 448 PEL evergreen shrub. Cuttings in spring. Sandy loam and lime rubbish. PEDICULARIS. Twenty-one spe- cies, chiefly, if not all, hardy herba- ceous. Sandy light loam and peat. PEGGING-DOWN is a process which has to be pursued annually, in arrang- ing the lower branches of shrubs, &c., on flower borders. It is usually done with little hooked sticks ; but Mr. Bea- ton, the scientific gardener at Shrubland Park, says,—‘* We take a handfull of matting, and cut it into four-inch lengths; then divide each piece into three or four pieces; we double these pieces round the shoots, and fasten the ends of the matting in the soil with a smal] dibber, or with the fore finger. In this way a boy may train and tie down all the plants in a flower garden in less time than it would take to pro- cure pegs for two or three beds, and the work is much neater than when done with the best pegs.*”—Gard. Chron. PELARGONIUM. Two hundred and fifty species. Chiefly green-house ever- greens; but a few are herbaceous, and’ a still smaller number tuberous-rooted. The shrubby evergreens are increased by cuttings: new varieties from seed ; and the .tuberous-rooted from seed ; and all will thrive in a mixture of light loam and leaf-mould. It is to the shrubby evergreens that we shall con- fine our attention, these being the most beautiful and most generally cultivated. They form a portion of that large family formerly known collectively as ‘* Gera- niums;?? but modern botanists have divided these into three genera: Pelar- goniums, having usually seven stamens, and unequal-sized petals; Geraniums, having ten stamens, and equal-sized petals; and Erodiums, having five star! mens. Characteristics of Excellence in the Pelargonium.—‘*‘ The flower should be large, composed of broad rose-leaf pe- tals, free from crumple or unevenness. of any kind; smooth on their edges, and forming a compact surface; round which, if a circle be drawn, the perfect symmetry of the flower would appear by the extremity of each petal touching the circle, without extending beyond it. It is indispensable that the flower should be of a stout firm texture, with sufficient liberty at the bottom of the cup to prevent its being in the least cramped; but allowing it to retain, PEL 449 PEL So when fully expanded, a fine cupped form, and preventing the falling back or reflexing of the petals. Its colour, whether rich or pale, should possess _ clearness: the under petals must e free from veins, and the upper petals should have a large dark spot running to the bottom of them, as destitute as possible of a small white feather, which is usually present, and which greatly impairs the richness of this important part. The beauty of the flower is greatly enhanced by having this spot clearly defined ; and if it is surrounded by a dash of crimson, that should have a distinct terminationalso. The petals ought to be quite free from the least appearance of a watery edge. Finally, it is essential that the leaves should be large, delicate, and have a healthy ap- pearance;:and that the truss should be composed of several flowers, supported by a firm foot-stalk standing quite clear of the foliage.”»—Gard. Chron. Varieties.—These are so numerous, fresh varieties appearing annually, that it is useless to attempt to enumerate them; and the attempt is less needed, because each has passed its period of excellence after four or five years. The following are the best that have been introduced during the last two seasons: Alba Perfecta (Thurtell’s), white and purple. Arabella (Beck’s), white and rose. Aurora (Beck’s). Bellona (Beck’s), rosy, purple and crimson. Chastity (Beck’s). Desdemona (Beck’s), maroon and pink. Desdemona’ (Thurtell’s), claret and white. Defiance (Thurtell’s), purplish crimson and white. Dr. Lindley (Foster’s). Duchess of Leinster (Gaine’s), orange pink, scarlet spot. Emperor Nicholas (Silverlock’s). Exactum (Foster’s). Favourite (Beck’s), like, but not so good as, Foster’s. Gulnare (M?Cormack’s), pink and white. Hector (Cock’s), rose and white. Isabella (Beck’s), pink and maroon. Juno (Beck’s), carmine and scarlet. La Polka (Staine’s). Lurida (Beck’s). Mark Antony (Beck’s), rose and purple. | Margaret (Beck’s), maroon and pink. 29 ‘linto 32s. Master Peel (Beck’s). Mustee (Beck’s), pink, purple spot. Orion (Foster’s), scarlet and maroon. Othello (Beck’s), purple and rose. Othello (Thurtell’s), mulberry and lilac. Pearl (Catleugh’s), white and crimson. Queen Philippa, rose. | Rainbow. (Thurtell’s), mulberry and white. Regulator (Thurtell’s), violet, purple and white. Rosy Circle (Beck’s), dark rose. Satellite (Thurtell’s), puce and white. Sir J. Broughton (Foster’s). Stromboli (Thurtell’s), salmon and pur- le. Sultana (Foster’s), orange and scarlet. Sunset (Beck’s), maroon and: pink. Superb (Thurtell’s), purple and lilac. Titus (Hoyle’s), rose and carmine. Trafalgar (Thurtell’s), crimson and purple. Unique (Thurtell’s), mulberry and white. ss Zanzummim (Beck’s), crimson and flesh. Zenobia (Beck’s), rose and mulberry. Varieties for Forcing.—Admiral Na- pier; Alba multiflora ; and Washington, for earliest; Bella; Gauntlet; Grand Duke ; Commodore ; Lord Mayor; King Rufus ; and Madeline, for succession. : Raising Varieties.—Captain Thurtell, one of the most successful improvers of this flower, gives these directions :— ‘‘ First. Destroy every bad shaped (or elongated) under petalled flower in your possession. *‘ Secondly. Impregnate (if possible) every flower yourself, the moment it is ready to receive the farina, and thus effectually prevent the effects of the bee. But so long as you allow bad shaped flowers to remain in your house, you can never calculate on impreg- nating with any certainty; and those who attend to colour in preference to shape, will have to retrace their steps. Captain Thurtell never raised a good flower until he attended rigidly to the above rules.”? See Hybridizing. Sow in July. The seedlings soon appear; when with four leaves, besides the seed leaves, pot into 60’s; keep in warm green-house. In April, shift In June, plunge the pots in a warm border. At the close of September, return to the green-house, They will] bloom in the winter or spring. Soil.—The best compost for growing Pelargoniums is half sandy loam and PEL 450 PEL —_>—_—_ half leafmould. The best manure is liquid, made of sheep’s dung. See Liquid Manure. Propagation.— By Cuttings. — Take the cuttings in mid-July, and plant these in an open border exposed to the sun. << In about six weeks,”? says Mr. Cat- leugh, the florist, of Hans Place, Chel- sea, ** the cuttings will be sufficiently rooted to remove, and I pot them into sixty-sized pots. To prevent the worms getting into the pots, they are placed upon a temporary stage, and allowed to remain in a shady situation about three weeks, by which time the plants will be well established, and bear re- moving to a more exposed spot, where, under the influence of the sun and air, the wood will attain a necessary degree of hardness. Here they remain until taken into the house for the winter, which is generally done about the end of September, before danger arises from frost. To make them compact and bushy, stop them at the third or fourth joint, and shift them into forty- eight sized pots, mixing a little turfy loam and sand with the compost, to allow the water to pass freely through the soil; give but little air during eight or ten days, the plants will be then re- established, and afterwards as much air may be given as the state of the atmo- sphere will permit, until the beginning of December. The side lights must be shaped plants. In the beginning of April, when fires are discontinued, the plants are syringed over the top three times a week; this is done about four o’clock, at the time the house is closed, and continued during three or four weeks. The house is well damped every evening at the bottom, and the top sashes opened the first. thing in the morning, to allow the damp air to escape, and during the day all the air is admitted that can be given with safety. The plants when begin- ning to bloom are freely watered, and protected from the scorching rays of the sun during the middle of the day by means of canvas, and are thus re- tained in blossom a much longer time than would be possible if this precau- tion were omitted. When the plants are housed the decayed leaves are re- moved, and whenever the green fly makes its appearance, the house is’ well fumigated: to do this effectually, it must be performed when the plants are in a dry state, and they must be well watered the day following. When the flowering is over, the plants are exposed for about a fortnight to the sun and air, to harden the wood before be- ing cut down. Those plants whichare intended as specimen plants the second season after heading down, are placed in a sheltered situation, when little water is given, and as soon as the new shoots are an inch long are repotted kept closed during the prevalence of| into pots from one to two sizes smaller, cold winds. The pots by this time will be well filled with roots, and the plants will require shifting into thirty-two sized pots. The bone dust which is now added must be used with caution ; being of a drying nature, it is not used near the surface of the soi! ; the shoots are again stopped at the third joint, the house is kept at a temperature of 45° Fahrenheit for about ten days, and then allowed to fall to 40° or 42°, at which itis kept. The flues are damped two or three times every night to prevent the air from becoming too dry, and a little top air is admitted whenever the weather is sufficiently favourable. About the middle of February those plants, which are intended to be large specimen plants are shifted again into twenty-four sized pots; those of vigor- ous growth will require a size larger. A smal] stick is now put to each stem to train them into uniform and well- the old soil is shaken from the roots, and good drainage given. The plants thus treated are kept in better health during the winter, from having Jess soil about their roots: When repotted they are placed upon a stage in a shady situ- ation, removed into the house at the proper time, and undergo the same treatment the second winter as de- scribed for the first. When those plants which are intended for exhibition begin to show their bloom they receive addi- tional attention, a little liquid manure is occasionally given, they are no longer syringed over the top, bees are kept out of the house by means of gauze blinds, every precaution is taken to preserve their beauty, and they are never allowed to flag from exposure to the sun or want of water. Every grow- er should begin early to train his plants for exhibition; when the shoots are young and tractable any direction may PEL 451 PEL —_—_¢——— be given to the stems; a uniform and handsome appearance will arise from the practice, and the plants will require fewer supports and less pulling about at the time they receive their final dressing. The flowers should be so arranged as to present’ an equal dis- tribution of bloom over the leaf of the plant, to effect which the stems must be secured to small willow twigs.??— Gard. Chron. -' Grafting. —Mr. J. Alexander, of Heath Farm, Atley, has grafted the Pelargonium very successfully, and his method is as follows :— “——. P. latifolius, white, slightly : stained with | bulbs, and lastly fill up the basket with purple. P. Mackayanus, purple and white. P. Murrayanus, bright scarlet. P. ovatus, bright blue. P. procerus, bright blue. P. pulchellus, light blue. P. Scoileri, lilac. P. speciosus, bright blue. P. venustus, light purple. ‘Soil.—A light rich loam, mixed with peat. They may be increased by divi- sion, but the strongest plants are raised from seed. Propagation.— Sow in October, or until January, in a cool frame. Keep the plants near the glass until strong enough for planting out in late spring. Always save seed when you can, and keep a stock of young plants to supply vacancies. PENTZIA flabelliformis. Green- house evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. PEPPERMINT. Mentha piperita. PEPPER VINE. —Gard. Chron. Winter Protection is best afforded them in a cold pit, frame, or green- house. By a little attention, and judi- cious watering, &c., they will begin to bloom early in the spring. | PEYROUSIA. Eight species. Green- Sandy loam and leaf-mould. Like Izia, they will usually thrive ina light-soiled, sheltered, south border. PHACA. Fourteen species. Hardy herbaceous, except P. canescens, re- quiring a green-house. hardy deciduous trailer. Seed. Com- mon soil. PHACELIA. Six species. Hardy herbaceous or annuals. Division or seed. Common soil. PHACOSPERMA peruviana. Stove herbaceous. Seed. Peat and loam. PHAIUS. Five species. Stove epiphytes and orchids. Of the former P. albus is most desirable. Itis propa- gated from young shoots. Peat and potsherds.. The other species are in- creased by division of the roots. Peat and sandy loam. PHALANA vanaria. A moth, abounding usually in June and July, is thus described by Mr. Curtis :— “¢The horns of the male are peeti- nated ; the wings are of an ash colour and freckled; the upper have four brown marks on the superior margin, the second crossing the centre of the wing. ‘© The larva is a looper, having only ten legs. It infects the red currantand gooseberry bushes, feeding upon the leaves, and is found in May. Itisabout an inch long, bluish green, with two white dorsal and two yellow lateral lines. It is dotted with little black tubercles, which. produce short black hairs. It changes late in May-to a chestnut-coloured chrysalis, in a slight web, on the surface of the earth. r— Gard. Chron. PHALACONOPSIS amabilis. Stove epiphyte. Side shoots. Wood and moss. ) PHALANGIUM. Five species. All Offsets. . P. glabra is a. a PHA 455 PRY fu iat herbaceous; P. longifolium, green- house; P. glaucum, and P. repalense, half-hardy; the others’hardy.. Division and seed. Sandy loam and peat. PHALEROCARPUS - serphyllifolia. Hardy evergreen creeper. Cuttings. Moist bog. PHALOCALLIS plumbea. Half-hardy bulb. Seed. Probably in a light soil, under a south wall. PHARBITIS.. Twelve species. Twiners, chiefly annual. P. cerulescens is a hardy evergreen; and P. varia, a stove evergreen twiner. The others are hardy and green-house, except P. lispida, requiring a stove. Seed. Sandy loam and Jeaf-mould. PHASEOLUS. Thirty species. An- nual twiners, chiefly hardy; a few are. deciduous perennials. Seed. Light rich loam. See Kidney Bean. PHEASANT’S-EYE. Adonis tumnalis. PHEBALIUM. Six species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat, sand, and loam. PHILADELPHUS. cies. Hardy deciduous shrubs. . and suckers. Common soil. PHILIBERTIA grandiflora. Green- house evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. _PHILLYREA. Ten species. Half- hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings and layers. .Common soil. PHILOTHECA australis. Green- house evergreen shrub. Young cut- tings. Sandy peatand sandy loom. PHILYDRUM lanuginosum. Green- house biennial. Seed. Loam and peat. PHLOGOCANTHUS curviflo- rus. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light rich loam. PHLOGOPHORA meticulosa. Angle shades moth. This is a night moth, appearing from May to October. The caterpillar is green, spotted with white. Upper wings of the moth, rosy white. The caterpillar feeds upon the Brassica tribe? \) PHLOMIS. Twenty-four species. Hardy and half-hardy evergreens and herbaceous perennials. Cuttings. Light rich loam. PHLOX. Forty-eight species. Hardy herbaceous. Division and cuttings. Rich loam. P. Drummondi is one of the prettiest of the genus, and its cul ture is thus detailed by Dr. Lindley :— ‘* The seeds should be sown about au- Fourteen spe- Layers the end of March, in pots filled witha light sandy soil, and placed on a mo- derate hot-bed, or in a cucumber ora melon frame. In this situation they will soon germinate; and before the first rough leaf appears they should be potted off, three or four together in a large sixty pot, placing the plants at equal distances round the side. When potted, they should be returned to the frame, and kept close for a few days, to recover from the effects of their re- moval; after which they should be gradually hardened off, by giving them plenty of air during the day in fine weather. Finally, about the beginning of May, they should be removed to a cold pit or frame, where they can be fully exposed during the day, covering them with the lights only at night, and in bad or cold weather. About the end of May, when all danger of late spring frost is over, they may be planted in the open border. The soil into which they are transferred should be either a light rich sandy soil or peat, with which a little well-rotted dung has been mixed. The plants will require to have a little water once or twice after they are planted, especially if the weather is dry at the time; but it is advisable not to water them after they are once well established. The chief causes of failure are, sowing the seeds too soon, or allowing the plants to get very dry, or pot-bound, before they are planted out. If once they become stunted, they will never make good plants; and the same may be said of those which have been kept in too warm a place.?”—Gard. Chron. It may be had in perfection from seed sown on a rich border, latter end of spring, and cultivated without transplanting. «= - PHOENIX. Date Palm. Hight spe- cies. Stove palms. Seed. Rich clayey loam. } PHENOCOMA prolifera. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Peat and sandy loam. PHOLIDOTA. Four species. Stove epiphytes. Division of bulbs. Wood and moss. % Ba ihe -PHOTINIA. Four species. Half hardy evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat, and on a south wall. PHYCELLA. Hight species. Green- house bulbs; but they will grow in a warm border if protected. Seed and offsets. Loam, sand, and peat. PHY 456 PIN St / PHYLICA. Thirty species. Green-|cies. Hardy herbaceous. Seed and house evergreen shrubs. division. Cemmon soil. - + PHYLLIS nodla. Green-house ever- | green shrub. Cuttings. Rich clayey loam. PHYLLOCLADUS rhomboida- lis. Green-house evergreen tree. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. PHYLLOMA. Four species, all ever- greens. PP. alotflorum is a stove tree; the others, green-house shrubs. Suck- ers. Sandy loam. : PHYLLOPERTHA horticola. The garden beetle. It is thus described by Mr. Curtis: —‘It is about four lines and a half long, and three broad. Its elytra, or wing cases, are reddish- brown, shining, and do not reach quite to the extremity of the body; the head and thorax are dark green. It appears on the leaves of the apple and pear in June, feeding on the very young fruit. When alarmed it feigns death, by fall- ing on its back, and extending its legs in a stiffened manner, and in different directions. The female deposits her eggs in the earth, and the larve feed on the roots of plants. The only method we are acquainted with of lessening the numbers of these beetles, is to collect and destroy them early in the morning, or late in the evening, when they may be found stick- ing to the plants, and they can readily be seen from their colour and size. During the day, and particularly if the weather is hot, they fly about with great swiftness, and are not easily caught.”»— Gard. Chron. PHYSEMATIUM. Two species. Stove herbaceous. Division. Peat and loam. PHYSIANTHUS albens. Stove evergreen climber. Seed and cuttings. - Loam and peat. PHYSOCLAINA. Two species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed and division. Common soil. PHYSOPIPHON. Four species. Stove epiphytes. Division of bulbs. Wood and moss. PHYSOSTEGIA. ~~ Seven _ species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Rich light loam. PHYSURUS pictus. Stove shrub. Cuttings. Light rich loam. PHYTELEPHAS macrocarpa. Stove evergreen shrub. Seed. Peat and loam. PHYTEUMA. ‘Twenty-three spe- PHY TOLACCA. (Nine species. Chiefly stove herbaceous. P.decandra is hardy and wide spreading. Seedand cuttings. Rich light soil. PIARANTHUS. Seven spes cies. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings in the spring. Sandy loam and lime rubbish. PICK-AXE, should have a handle three feet and a half long, made of ash; and the points or edges of the head should be of well-steeled iron. ° There are three varieties: —1. The pick with two points, for loosening hard sur- faces. 2. The pick-axe, for cutting through roots of trees when felling. 3. The mattock, with one pointed and one flat edge, for loosening surfaces, and grubbing up roots. PICOTEE. See Carnation. PICRIDIUM. Four species. Hardy herbaceous and annuals. Division or seed. Common soil. PICTETIA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Loam and peat. PIERARDIA dulcis. green tree. Cuttings. | peat. PIERIS Crategi. Black-veined Butterfly. black ribs or veins on the wings. It is very much like Pontia Brassice. The caterpillar is dirty yellow, hairy, black- headed, and a brown stripe down its sides. The caterpillars mould several times, and they are usually found on the apple-tree, where both the yellow eggs and caterpillars may be found in June. The caterpillars draw two or three leaves together with a web. These should be sedulously eoaeee for and destroyed. PILEA muscosa. Stove evergreen trailer.. Cuttings. Common soil. PIMELEA. Twenty-eight species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Sandy peat and loam. PIMPERNEL. Anagallis. PINCKNEYA pubens; a beautiful or rather curious southern shrub, scarcely sufficiently hardy to support the winters of Pennsylvania. Cuttings. Sandy peat, beneath a south wall. PINE-APPLE. Ananassa. ‘The pine-apple is but little cultivated in the United States, though it is probable the Stove ever- Sandy loam and Hawthorn, or Is white, with PIN 457 PIN —— increase of wealth and luxury among us, may ere long induce its culture un- der glass, in common with the grape, peach, &c., though the same necessity as in England does not exist—our proximity to the tropics enabling us, at least on the seaboard, to obtain the pine in tolerable perfection, and ata tithe of the cost of producing it ourselves; we, however, insert the article on this fruit as it stood in the original edition of this work. I believe the most successful cultiva- tor of this fruit is Mr. Barnes, gardener to Lady Rolle, at Bicton, near Sidmouth, and to that excellent horticulturist Iam indebted for the following detail of his latest system of culture :— Varieties :—We cultivate the Queen principally for fruiting at all seasons. We also grow a few of the large black kinds, which are all of easy culture, and may be grown to a very large size indeed. We have of late grown the Queen Pine from six to nearly eight pounds in weight, and those have been produced from plants of only a few months’ growth. The other varieties we cultivate are—the Russian Globe, English Globe, Enville, Green Olive or St. Vincent, Montserrat, Black Ja- maica, Otaheite, Brown-leaved Sugar Loaf, and Black Antigua, only two or three plants of each, and those we are about reducing. All these varieties are of easy culture, and free swellers, ca- .pable of being grown to a great weight. To equal a Queen of six pounds weight they ought to be from ten to fourteen pounds weight each fruit, but we only average them from six to ten pounds weight. *¢ Propagation.—I. have practised in my time various methods, but my pre- sent mode is only by suckers. These are pulled off immediately the fruit is cut, and at once potted, no matter what season of the year it may be. Thus, as soon as a fruit is ripened, the plant is lifted out, and another at once planted in its place. One sucker, or, perhaps, two, are occasionally left, but not often. Those taken off are at once potted. By this practice a constant succession of plants is kept up, and fruit of various agés. JI never care for the crowns, though, if taken off in due time, and potted at once, in well sweetened dry pulverized earth, they will make equal- ly good plants. Of course the suckers should be placed in the same kind of earth, not damp, or they will be liable to be affected at the base with rot or mildew. «¢ Soi]l.—The pine will grow well in any kind of turfy, rooty, well-sweetened pulverized soil, from heath soil. to a heavy clayey loam. I make choice of a heathy turf when obtainable, with the roots and its natural vegetation all with it; never breaking it until at the pot- ting bench, as the process of potting is going on. Then we break the sods, which are mostly chosen about two or three inches in thickness, in such kind of pieces as we can thrust into the pots, putting in, as we proceed, some pieces of charcoal, always taking care to drain the pots carefully, which is one of the chief essentials. Our drainage is prin- cipally coarse charcoal, averaging one- fourth of broken rubbly potsherds, which are placed first round about the bottom ; then, if it is a seven-inch pot, for a ‘sucker, the drainage averages two inches at least; and if fifteen or eight- een-inch pots, which are the largest fruiting pots I make use of, the drain- age is employed in a coarser state, and about two inches more of it, and the soil too is thrust into the pots rougher— brambles, furze, bushes, heath, and grass altogether——with no other kind of manure, besides an occasional lump or handful of rubbly charcoal, merely to fill up some of the crevices. It is not rammed, that is to say, not pounded, or jammed together in the same way pot- ting is too often done, but pushed down as we proceed, quietly. Thus the soil is really a whole body of drainage— there is no obstruction either to the atmosphere or the water. I have no particular time or season for shifting, potting, or repotting—-we do all these at any season of the year, whenever we fancy the plants seem to require it. Never shift a plant, or repot, but twice at the: most. If it is a strong spring sucker, it gets with me but one potting from the sucker pot to the fruiting pot. I have left off altogether making use of any kind of manure with the earth be- sides charcoal; excepting to free-grow- ing plants occasionally we apply weak liquid manure——as clear as wine——al- ways applying it in a tepid state, and in the growing, warm part of the season. To the succession plants we apply it with the syringe or engine over the PIN a whole of the foliage and surface of the | easy, but little need be added. lunging materials. — Gard. Chron. Aphelandra cristata may be managed the same way, and no plant will more amply repay the care and attention Ss stowed on it. POIRETIA scandens. Stove ever- green climber. Young cuttings. Loam and peat. POISON-BULB. SBrunsvigia toxica- ria, and Crinum asiaticum. POISON-NUT.. Strychnos nux vomica. ‘ POISON-OAK. Rhus toxicodendron. POISONOUS PLANTS. - Gardeners should be much more careful than they usually are in handling the plants they cultivate, for many of them have deadly qualities. M. Neumann, chief gardener of the Paris Jardin des Plantes, says f that pruning knives and hands washed in a tank after they have been em- ployed upon some of the exotics, will destroy the fish it contains. Hippo- mane biglandulosa, the Manchineel, the Tanghin, Sapium Jaurocerasus, and Camnocladia dentata, are equally dele- terious to man. Gardeners who have merely rubbed the leaves of the latter between their fingers, have had swol- Jen bodies and temporary blindness. Wounds from pruning knives smeared with the juices of such plants, are like those from poisoned arrows. POISONS. Soils containing obnox- ious ingredients are certain introducers of disease and premature death. An excess of oxide of iron, as when the roots of the apple and pear get into an irony red gravelly subsoil, always causes canker to supervene. In the neighbour- hood of copper-smelting furnaces, not only are cattle subjected to swollen joints and other unusual diseases, caus- ing decrepitude and death, but the plants also around are subject to sud- den visitations, to irregular growths, and to unwarned destruction; and a crop once vigorous will suddenly with- er as if swept over by a blast. There is no doubt of this arising from the salts of copper, which impregnate the soil irregularly, as the winds may have borne them sublimed from the furnaces, and the experiments of Sennebier have shown that of all salts those of copper are the most fatal to plants. That they can be poisoned, and by many of those substances, narcotic as well as corro- sive, which are fatal to animals, has been shown by the experiments of M. F. Marcet. The metallic poisons being absorbed, are conveyed to the different parts of the plant, and aiter or destroy its tissue. The vegetable poisons, such as opium, strychnia, prussic acid, belladonna, al- cohol, and oxalic acid, which act fatally upon the nervous system of animals, also cause the death of plants. The poisonous substance is absorbed into the plant’s system, and proves in- jurious when merely applied to its branches or stem, almost as much as if placed in contact with the roots. Ulcerations aud canker are exasperated if lime be put upon the wounds, and when Dr. Hales made a golden rennet apple absorb a quart of camphorated spirits of wine through one of its’ PO! 472 POL ae branches, one-half of the tree was de- stroyed.—Princ. of Gardening. POIVREA. Six species. Stove evergreen climbers. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. POLANISIA. Five species. Hardy annuals. Seed. Sheltered, light rich loam. POLEMONIUM. ‘Twelve species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Light loam. POLIANTHES. Tuberose. Two species. Green-house bulbs. Bulbs imported. Sandy loam and leaf-mould. POLYANTHUS. Primula vulgaris, var. polyantha. A florist’s flower much esteemed in England; in the United States but little attention has been paid to it. Varieties. — Mr. Slater, florist, of. Manchester, gives the following lists: — FIRST CLASS. Barrow’s Dutchess of Sutherland. Buck’s George the Fourth. Bullock’s Lancer. Clegg’s Lord Crewe, alias Canning. Collier’s Princess Royal. Cox’s Regent. Crownshaw’s Invincible. Kekersley’s Jolly Dragoon. Gibbon’s Sovereign. General Bolivar. Gond’s Independent. Hetcher’s Defiance. Hilton’s President. Hufton’s Earl Grey, alias Clegg’s Lord John Russell. Hufton’s Lord Rancliffe, alias Clegg’s Prince of Orange, and Clegg’s Golden Hero. Hufton’s Lord Lincoln. Maude’s Beauty of England. Nicholson’s Bang Europe. Ollier’s Beauty of Over. Pearson’s Alexander. Saunders’s Cheshire Favourite. Wood’s Espartero. George SECOND CLASS. Beauty of Coven. Buckley’s Squire Starkie. Burnard’s Formosa. Dew’s Britannia. Faulkner’s Black Prince. Fillingham’s Tantarara. Queen’s Ear! Fitzwilliam. Hepworth’s Elizabeth. Jolly Sailor. Nicholson’s Ranger. Nonsuch. King. Sir Sidney Smith. Telegraph (Head’s). Turner’s Emperor Buonaparte. — Princess. Timm’s Defiance and Yorkshire Re- gent. Characteristics of Excellence, are thus enumerated by Dr. Lindley :— *¢ The pip of the Polyanthus should be large, and the nearer the outline approaches a circle the better; it should be free from any unevenness, and lie perfectly flat; the edge must be smooth, and the divisions in the corolla, which form it into heart-shaped seg- ments, should reach the eye but not cut into it. The segments should be well rounded, making the divisions be- tween them small and shallow. The tube must be of a fine yellow, round, clearly defined, well filled with an- thers, and terminating in a narrow ridge raised slightly above the surface of the eye. ‘© The eye should be of a bright rich yellow colour, of a uniform width round the tube. The ground colour must be entire, free from specks or blemishes, of a dark or rich crimson, not paler at the edges, and uniform in every division. The edge should form a narrow well defined rim of yellow, perfectly regular, bordering each seg- ment, and passing down the centre of each division to the eye. ‘¢It is essential that the edge and the eye be ofa uniform yellow. These qualities in the pips, and the flowers forming a compact truss, standing well above the foliage on a firm upright stem, will constitute perfection in the polyanthus.?*—Gard. Chron. Propagation by Seed.—Dr. Lindley says, ‘‘ during February sow in pots in a light and moderately rich soil, and give the seed, when sown, a slight covering of sifted soil; the pans should then be placed under hand-glasses. It is better to raise them without bottom- heat, as the young plants are apt to damp off. As soon as the seeds begin to vegetate, air should be given; and as they increase in size, care must be taken to keep away slugs. When the sun has much power, it will be advisa- ble to remove the pans to an east or north aspect, to prevent them from be- POL 473 PON — coming too dry. In August they will be ready for transplanting.’? — Gard. Chron. General Culture.—This is detailed by that most successful floriculturist, Dr. Horner, of Hull, and from his di- rections are taken the following ex- tracts :— << Situation and Soil.—A free and pure air is necessary for its vigorous growth. It should alway be grown in a bed or open border, and in one which has an eastern aspect. It is most im- patient of heat and drought, but de- lights in a cool, or rather moist and shaded locality, where it can enjoy about two hours of the morning sun. It thrives best in a retentive soii from a rich old pasture, to which has been added about the sixth part of cow manure, two or three years old, and the same quantity of leafmould. The natural soil of the garden should be dug out to the depth of a foot, and the space filled up with the above, three months previously to planting them, that the bed may have become settled before it is required for the plants. “¢ Pianting.—The proper time is at the end of July, not later. Shorten the main or tap-root, as it is called, to within about half an inch of the leaves, that a few of the vigorous young fibrous roots only may be retained; with a small trowel make a hole in the soil sufficiently deep that the plant may have the very crown of the main root covered at least one inch with the soil. | ‘< It is of the utmost importance that the polyanthus should be thus deep set; for the young roots always ema- nate from the very top of the main. root, and throw themselves out for the most part, if a somewhatcurved or hori- zontal method of planting is adopted. ‘¢ Having well watered the bed, the plants require no more care whatever, except being kept clean. They should be left entirely without covering or pro- tection in the winter. *¢ Blooming, §c.—In spring, just when the pips are about to expand, if wanted for the purpose of exhibition, or to ornament the stage or cool green- house, they may be taken up with a moderately-sized ball of earth, and put into common auricula pots, for they bear this removal without the slightest injury or apparent check. Water must now be supplied rather freely, and should occasionally be sprinkled over the foliage (avoiding the flowers) ; and the smaller and central pips should be thinned out, that the truss or umbel of flowers ‘may have a uniform and un- crowded appearance. When the bloom is over, the plants should be turned out of their .pots into the border from whence they were taken; here they must remain without further care, ex- cept an occasional watering, till the end of July, when they should be taken up, the soil crumbled from their roots, and those which present two or more heads divided gently with the fingers, and prepared and planted as before de- scribed.””—Gard. Chron. POLY BOTRYA. Three species. Stove ferns. Division and seed. Sandy peat and turf. POLYGALA. Forty-four species. Herbaceous, shrubby, and annual. All hardy or green-house, except the stove annuals, P. paniculata and P. umbeliata. Division, cuttings or seed. Sandy peat and a little loam. POLYGONATUM. Thirteen species. Hardy herbaceous. Seed and division. Light rich loam. POLYGONUM. Forty-eight species. Chiefly hardy herbaceous or annual plants, some being aquatics and trailers. A few require the shelter of the green- house. Seed and division. Light rich loam. POLYPODIUM. _ Sixty-six species. Chiefly stove ferns. Division and seed. Light loam and peat. POLYPODY. Polypodium. POLYPTERIS integrifolia. Hardy annual. Seed. Light rich loam. POLYSPORA azillaris. Stove ever- green shrub. Unripe cuttings. Light loam and peat. POLYSTACHYA. Seven species. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood and moss. POMADERRIS. Sixteen species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. POMAX hirta. Green-house ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat and loam. POMBALIA ituba. Stove herbaceous. Seed and young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. POMEGRANATE. Punica. POMPION. See Gourd. PONCELETIA sprengeiloides. PON AT4 PON —— Green-house evergreen shrub. Young cuttings. Sandy peat. PONDS, are reservoirs of water dug out of the soil, and made retentive by puddling with clay their bottoms and sides. Puddling is necessary in almost all instances and the mode of proceeding is thus detailed by Mr. Marnock, in the United Gardeners? Journal. When the excavacation is formed, or partially so, the bottom puddle near the outer edge is formed, and upon this is raised the upright or side puddle; and as this proceeds the ordinary clay or earth is raised at the same time, and by this means the upright puddle is retained in its place; and ultimately the sides, being formed ina sloping direction, admit of being covered with gravel or sand, and may be walked upon, or stakes may be driven to a considerable depth without reaching the puddle or in any way in- juring it; this can never be the case if the puddle, as is sometimes done, be Jaid upon the sloping side of the pond. The sides may slope rapidly, or the re- verse: if the slope be considerable, sand or gravel to give a clean appear- ance will be the more likely to be re- tained upon the facing; plants can be more easily fixed and cultivated; gold- fish also find in these shallow gravelly parts under the leaves of the plants suitable places to deposit their spawn, and without this they are seldom found to breed. Ponds made in this way may be of any convenient size, from a couple of yards upwards to as many acres. The following is the section of a pond Fig. 137. . * SS thus formed: a indicates the surface of the ground at the edge of the water; b, the puddle; c, the facing to preserve the puddle from injury ; d, the water; e, the surface of the latter; and f, the ordinary bottom. When a smal] pond of this kind is to be made, and the ex- tent of the surface is determined upon evergreen shrubs. and marked out, it will then be neces- sary to form a second or outer mark, indicating the space required for the wall or side puddle, and about three feet is the proper space to allow for this—the puddle requiring about two feet, and the facing which requires to be laid upon the puddle ought to be about a foot more, making together three feet. Ponds may be made very ornamental, and for suitable suggestions on this point, see Water. PONGAMIA. Four species. Cuttings. Stove Sandy loam and peat. . PONTEDERA. Seven species. Stove aquatics, except the hardy P. cerulea. Division. Rich light loam in water. PONTHIEVA. Two species. Stove orchids. Division. Sandy loam and peat. PONTIA. A genus of butterflies of which the following one is most ob- noxious to the gardener :— P. brassice, the large white cabbage butterfly is thus described by Mr. Kol- lar :—‘** The wings are white ; the up- per wings with broad black tips, and the female has two black spots on the middle. The under side of the under wings is light yellow. Breadth, when expanded, two inches. It appears from May to October. The caterpillar is bluish-green, thinly haired, and sprin- kled with black dots, having a yellow stripe on the back, and the same on the sides. These caterpillars are found, throughout the summer and autumn, on all the sorts of cabbage, on horse- radish, radishes, mustard, and similar plants, as well as on water -cresses. The pupe are yellowish-green, with black dots, with a point on the head, and five on the back. The best way to destroy them is picking off and killing the caterpillars, as weli as the pupe, as far as it is possible; the latter are found attached to adjacent trees, hedges, and walls. But care must be taken not to destroy those pupe which have a brown appearance; because they are full of the larve of ichneumons, and other allied parasites, which are the great scourge of these caterpillars..°°— Kollar. P. rape. Small White Cabbage But- terfly. The following extracts are from the same good authority :—** This But- terfly resembles the foregoing, but is ee POP A715 POE eS one half smaller; and the black tinge at the points of the uper wings is faint- er, and not visible on the outer edge. The time of appearance is the same as of the former. “The caterpillar’ is of a dull green, with fine white minute hairs, a yellow stripe on the back, and yellow spots on the sides, on a pale ground. In some years it is very injurious to the cabbage and turnip plants; it also infests the mignionette, which it strips entirely of its leaves. It is very difficult to be dis- covered from its colour. The pupa is yellowish or greenish-gray, with three yellow stripes. Like the former kind, it is found attached to trees, hedges,”’ &c.—Kollar. POPLAR. Populus. POPPY. Papaver. POPULUS. Poplar. Fifteen species, and many varieties. Hardy deciduous trees. Cuttings and layers. Light loam, near flowing water. PORANA volubilis. Stove evergreen twiner. Seed. Loam and peat. PORANTHERA ericifolia. Green- house evergreen shrub. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. PORLIERA hygrometrica. Stove evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. — PORTHESIA. See Bombycz. PORTLANDIA. Twospecies. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. PORTUGAL LAUREL. Cerasus lu- sitanica. This is a beautiful evergreen shrub, not sufficiently hardy to with- stand the winters of the middle states— farther south it would be highly useful as a decoration to the garden and lawn during winter. PORTULACA. Purslane. Fifteen species. Stove, green-house, and hardy annuals. Seed. Light loam. P. grandi- flora is a tuberous perennial, increased by offsets. See Purslane. PORTULACARIA afra. African Purslane Tree. Green-house evergreen shrub. Young cuttings. Sandy loam, well drained. POSOQUERIA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and eat. . POTATO. Solanum tuberosum Varieties. for forcing or first crop, in the open ground :—Walnut-leaved Kid- ney, earliest; Broughton Dwarf; Early Warwick; Ash-leaved Kidney, white, best; Soden’s Early Oxford; Fox’s Seedling, perhaps the best; Early Manly; Early Mule. Earliest for general cultivation :— Early Kidney; Nonsuch; Early Shaw; Gold Finder; Taylor’s Forty-fold. For main crops, the varieties are ranged in this class, according to their forwardness in ripening :— Early Champion; Leathercoat; Ox Noble ; Red Nose Kidney, very good ; Large Kidney ; Irish Cup; Bread Fruit, the best; Red Streak, or Lancashire Pink Eye; Black Skin; Purple; Red Apple; Rough Red.—All these are English varieties. At Philadelphia, where we write, but two sorts are extensively grown, viz., Mercer and Foxite; the former has had great popu- larity ‘for both quality and product— the latter, though not productive, is the best we have ever seen grown in this country. ‘ Soil and Situation.—No inhabitant of the garden varies more in quality in different gardens than the potato; for a variety will have a strong unpleasant flavour in one soil, that has a sweet agreeable one in another. Ina heavy wet soil, or a rank black loam. though the crop is often fine and abundant, it is scarcely ever palatable. Silicious soils, even approaching to gravel, though in these last the tubers are usually corroded or scabby, are always to be planted in preference to the above. A dry, friable, fresh, and moderately rich soil, is unquestionably the best for every variety of the potato ; and for the earliest crop, it may be with advantage more silicious than for the main ones. The black-skinned and rough-red, thrive better than any other in moist strong cold soils. If manure is necessary, whatever may be the one employed, it is better spread regularly over the surface pre- vious to digging, than put into the holes with the sets, or spread in the trench when they are so planted. Stable dung is perhaps the best of all factitious manures; sea-weed is a very beneficial addition to the soil; and so is salt. Coal-ashes and sea-sand are applied with great benefit to retentive soils. The situation must always be open. Time and Modes of Propagation.—It is propagated in general by the tubers, though the shoots arising from thence, POT A476 POT e —— and layers of the stalks, may be em- ployed. New varieties are raised from seed. Planting in the open ground must be done with reference to the latitude in which we live—in Pennsylvania, for in- stance, those intended for the earliest crop may be planted in March; for a succession, in April; and for the main winter supply,in May. Formerly large crops were produced from plantations made in July, but latterly they have not succeeded. Sets.—The next point for considera- tion is the preparation of thé sets. Some gardeners recommend the largest pota- toes to be planted whole; others, that they be sliced into pieces containing two or three eyes; a third set, to cut the large tubers directly in half; a fourth, the employment of the shoots only, which are thrown out if potatoes are kept in a warm damp situation ; and a fifth, that merely the parings be em- ployed. Cuttings of the stalks, five or six inches in length, or rooted suckers, will be productive, if planted during showery weather, in May or June; and during this last month, or early in July, it may be propagated by layers, which are formed by pegging down the young stalks when about twelve inches long, they being covered three inches thick with mould at a joint. These three last modes are practised more from curiosity than utility, whilst at the same time, none of the first five mentioned plans can be individually followed to advantage without modification. For the main crops, it is evident from ex- periment that moderate. sized whole potatoes are the best, from which all but two eyes have been removed; but especially having the crown, which is a congery of small eyes, first removed ; for from these proceed little spindled stalks, which are comparatively worth- less, and injure the main stem. For the early crops almost the very contrary to the above is the most ad- vantageous to be practised. The set should have the crown-eye, which is one growing in the centre of the con- gery of small ones above mentioned, preserved. Some potatoes have two such eyes, but the generality only one. This is always the most prompt to ve- getate, and if not known by this de- scription, may be evinced by placing two or three potatoes ina pan of moist earth near the fire. If the earth is kept moist, the crown-eye will be in a state of vegetation in five or six days. To obtain early crops, where tubers are rapidly formed, large sets must be employed. In these one or two eyes at most should be allowed to remain. If the sets are placed with their lead- ing buds upwards, few and very strong early stems will be produced; but, if the position is reversed, many weak and later shoots will arise, and not only the earliness but the quality of the pro- duce be depreciated. For the earliest crops there are likewise several modes of assisting the forward vegetation of the sets. These should be prepared by removing every eye but one or two; and being placed in a layer in a warm room, where air and Jight can be freely admitted, with a covering of straw, they soon emit shoots, which must be strengthened by exposure to the air and light as much as possible, by taking off the cover without injaring them. Dur- ing cold weather, and at night, it must always be removed: the leaves soon become green and tolerably hardy. In early spring they are planted out, the leaves being left just above the surface, and a covering of litter afforded every night until the danger of frost is passed. The only modification of this plan that is adopted in Cheshire, where they are celebrated for the early production of potatoes, is, that they employ chaff or sand for a covering instead of straw. Planting.—In garden culture the most preferable mode of inserting them is with the dibble, in rows; for the early crops twelve inches apart each way, and for the main ones eighteen inches. The sets should be placed six inches beneath the surface. The po- tato-dibble is the best instrument that can be employed ; the earth being after-- wards raked or struck in with the spade, and: the soil not trampled upon but — planted as sufficient is dug for receiving a row. The compartment may be laid out level and undivided if the soil is light ; but if heavy soil is necessarilys em- ployed, it is best disposed in beds six or eight feet wide. If the staple of the soil be good throughout, the alleys may be two feet wide and dug deep, other- wise they must be made broader, and only one spit taken out, the earth re- moved being employed to raise the POT 477 POT —_4—_— beds, which should not be more than four parallel ridges, and the sets in- serted along their summits. _ Hoeing.—As soon as the plants are well to be distinguished, they should be perfectly freed from weeds ; and of the early crops the earth drawn round each plant, so as to form a cup asa shelter - from the cold winds, which are their chief enemy at that season. But the main crops should not be earthed up, for earthing up diminishes the crop one fourth. Throughout their growth they should be kept perfectly clear of weeds. It is very injurious to mow off the tops of the plants, as is sometimes re- commended. The foliage ought to be kept as uninjured as possible, unless, as sometimes occurs on fresh ground, the plants are of gigantic luxuriance, and even then the stems should be only moderately shortened. It is, however, of considerable advantage to remove the fruit-stalks and immature flowers as soon as they appear, unless the stems are very luxuriant. A potato plant continues to form tubers until the flowers appear, after which it is em- ployed in ripening those already formed. The very earliest crops will be in production in July, or perhaps towards the end of June, and may thence be taken up as wanted until October, at the close of which month, or during November, they may be entirely dug up and stored. In storing, the best mode is to place them in layers, alternately with dry coal-ashes, in a shed. But a still better plan, usually, is to allow them to remain where grown, moulding the rows over six inches deep, and taking them up a week before wanted. The best instrument with which they can be dug up is a three-flat-pronged fork, each row being cleared regularly away. The tubers should be sorted at the time of taking them up; for, as the largest keep the best, they alone should be stored, whilst the smaller ones are first made use of. The most common mode of preserving them, throughout the winter, is in heaps or clamps some- times called pyeing. The heaps are laid in pyramidal form on a bed of straw, and enveloped with.a covering, six or eight inches thick, of the same ma- terial, laid even as in thatching, and the whole inclosed with earth, in a conical form, a foot thick, taken from a trench dug round the heap, and well smooth- ened with the back of the spade. Potatoes should not be stored until perfectly dry, nor unless free from earth, refuse, and wounded tubers. It is a good practice to keep a hole open on four different sides of the heap, entirely through the earth and straw, for a week or two after the heap is formed ; for in proportion to itssize it alwavs ferments, and these orifices allow the escape of the vapours and perfect the drying. To raise Varieties.—A variety of the potato is generally considered to con- tinue about fourteen years in perfection, after which period it gradually loses its good qualities, becoming of inferior flavour and unproductive; fresh va~ rieties must, therefore, be occasionally raised from seed. The berries, or ap- ples, of the old stock, having hung in a warm room throughout the winter, the seed must be obtained from them by washing away the pulp during February. This is thoroughly dried and kept until April, and then sown ‘in drills about half an inch deep and six inches apart, in a rich light soi]. The plants are weeded, and ‘earth drawn up to their stems, when an inch in height: as soon as this has increased to three inches they are moved into a similar soil, in rows, sixteen inches apart each way, and during their future growth earthed up two or three times. Being finally taken up, in the course of October, they must be preserved until the following spring, to be then replanted and treated as for store crops. Some gardeners sow in a moderate hot-bed, very thin, in drills the same depth as above, and nine inches apart. Water is frequently and plentifully poured between the rows, and earth drawn about the stems of the seedlings until they are a few inches in height. They are then transplanted into rows, water given, and earthing performed as usual. The only additional advantage of this plan is, that as the seed can be sown earlier, the tubers attain a rather larger size the first year. It is to be remarked, that the tubers of every seedling should be kept sepa- rate, as scarcely two will be of a similar habit and quality, whilst: many will be comparatively worthless, and but few of particular excellence. If the seed is obtained from a red potato that flow- POT 478 P:O:F os ered in the neigbourhood of a white- tubered variety, the seedlings, in all probability, will in part.resemble both their parents; but seldom or never does a seedling resemble eeenly the original stock. At all events, only such should be preserved as are recommended by their superior earliness, size, flavour, or fertility. The early varieties—if planted on little heaps of earth, with a stake in the middle, and when the plants are about four inches high, being secured to the stakes with shreds and nails, andthe earth washed away from the bases of the stems by means of a strong current of water, so that the fibrous roots only enter the soil—will blossom and perfect seed. Forcing.—The season for forcing is fromthe close of December to the middle of February, in a hot-bed, and at the close of this last month on a warm border, with the temporary shelter of a frame. The hot-bed is only re- quired to produce a moderate heat. The earth should be six inches deep, and the sets planted in rows six or eight apart, as the tubers are not required to be large. The temperature ought never to sink below 65°, nor rise above 80°. The rank steam arising from ferment- ing dung is undoubtedly injurious to the roots of potatoes; and to obviate this they may be planted in narrow beds, and the dung applied in trenches on each side; or all the earth from an old cucumber or other hot-bed being re- moved, and an inch in depth of fresh being added, put on the sets, and cover them with four inches of mould. At the end of five days the sides of the old dung may be cut away in an inward slanting direction, about fifteen inches from the perpendicular, and strong lin- ings of hot dung applied. Ifthe tubers are desired to be brought to maturity as speedily as possible, in- stead of being planted in the earth of the bed, each set should be placed in a pot about six inches in diameter; but the produce in pots is smaller. But young potatoes may be obtained in the winter, according to the following plan, without forcing :— Plant some Jate kinds, unsprouted, in a dry rich border, in July, and again in August, in rows two feet apart. They will produce new potatoes in October, and in succession until April, if covered with leaves or straw to exclude frost. If old potatoes are placed in dry earth, in a shed, during August, they will emit young tubers i in December. Preparation of Sets for forcing. — They should be of the early varieties. To assist their forward vegetation, plant a single potato in each of the pots in- tended for forcing, during January. Then place in the ground, and protect with litter from the frost.. This renders them very excitable by heat; and, con- sequently, when plunged in a hot-bed, they vegetate rapidly and generate tu- bers. The seed potatoes are equally assisted, and with less trouble, if placed in a cellar just in contact with each other, and as soon as the germs are four inches long, are removed to the hot-bed. Management. —More than one stem should never be allowed, otherwise the tubers are small, and not more nume- rous. Water must be given edicnceas the soil appears dry, and in quantity propor- tionate to the temperature of the air. Linings must be applied as the temper- ature declines; and air admitted as freely as the temperature of the atmo- sphere will allow. Coverings must be afforded with the same regard to tem- perature. From six to seven weeks usually elapse between the time of planting and the fitness of the tubers for use. The average produce from a light soil is about five pounds. There is another mode of obtaining young potatoes, during the winter, which is much practised on account of its facility; though, being produced without foliage, they are not so fine in flavour, are deficient in farina, and are otherwise inferior. Old potatoes often throw out from their sides young ones, early in the spring; and of this habit advantage is taken in obtaining them still earlier. Some full-grown and ripe tubers, of the ox noble variety, that have no appearance of vegetating, must be iaid alternately with layers of per- fectly dry, rich, vegetable mould, four inches deep, in pans or boxes): until they are filled. .These may be placed in a thoroughly dry shed, or on a shelt in the kitchen. If the layers are con- structed in the corner of a shed or cel- Jar, the produce will be equally good, though longer in coming to perfection. ones of moderate size. POT 479 POT ——__———- No foliage is produced, the potatoes soon are surrounded by numerous young No water must ever be admitted on any account. No- tice is to be taken that between three and four months elapse between the time of forming the Jayers and the fit- ness of the produce for use.. Thus if made early in September, the crop will be ready in the course of December. When they are examined, those that are fit may be taken off, and the old ‘potatoes replaced until the remainder are ready. | : Potato Murrain. — By the above name was distinguished a moist gan- grene which attacked very generally the potato crop of England late in the summer of the year 1845. July and August were unusually wet. and cold, and early in August there were sharp morning frosts. Immediately after, the stems began to decay; but the weather continuing wet, instead of their decay being dry, and attended with the usual phenomena of their reduction to mere woody fibre, the putrefaction was moist, and the smell] attendant upon it precise- ly that evolved during the decay of dead potato haulm partly under water. The stem decayed whilst the fibres connect- ing the tubers with them were fresh and juicy —the putrefaction spread along these, the ichor being absorbed by their still energetic vessels, and passing into the still immature and un- usually juicy tubers, imparted to them the gangrene; the infection first being ap- parent at the end nearest the connecting fibre, spreading gradually throughout the liber of the tuber, rendering it brown like a decayed apple, and lastly causing the decay of its interior portion. Pre- viously to the final decay, the increased specific gravity of the potato was re- markable, amounting to one-third more than that ofa healthy tuber—an increase caused by its greater amount of water. When boiled it became black; but when submitted to a dry heat of about 200°, it rapidly lost moisture, and the pro- gress of the ulceration was retarded, if not entirely stopped. There can be no preventive for such a disease as this—and the only chance of saving the tubers is to mow off all the haulms close to the ground the moment infection is apparent in them. This might prevent the circulation of the ichor to the tubers. These should be taken up forthwith and clamped as recommended by Dr. Lindley, with a layer of earth or sand alternating with each layer of potatoes. -The disease seems to be the natural result of an excessive degree of wet and cold at that period of closing growth when all bulbs and tubers require an increased degree of dryness and warmth. If the hyacinth, or tulip, or dahlia are submitted to similar unpropitious con- tingencies, their bulbs or tubers simi- larly decay. It is not a new disease, for to a less extent it has been’ frequentiy noticed before. The best preservative of the tubers in such ungenial seasons is to take them up, to dry them perfectly, and then store them ina dry shed in dry coal ashes. Much has been written on this sub- ject, and the newspapers here and in Europe have been filled with specula- tions as to its duration, &c.’ The failure to a considerable extent of the crop of the present year. (1846,) would indicate that the disease is not of such temporary character as had been hoped and pre- dicted. If it continue all the old varie- ties must necessarily be abandoned; and reliance placed on new ones, raised from the seed proper; therefore, asa matter of precaution, we would recom- mend attention to that object. They are readily produced by carefully sow- ing the seed, and replanting the young tubers in successive seasons, until they attain full size. Thereis reason to hope such would be free from disease, or at any rate less liable to it, than the older varieties. POTATO or UNDER-GROUND ONION., Allium aggregatum. This species of Allium has received the above appellations, on account of its producing a cluster of bulbs or offsets, in number from two to twelve, and even more, uniformly beneath the surface of . the soil. From being first introduced to public notice in Scotland by Captain Burns of Edinburgh, it is there also known as the Burn Onion. Varieties.—There evidently appear to be two varieties of this vegetable, one of which bears bulbs on. the summit of its stems, like the tree onion, and the other never throwing up flower stems | at all. One variety is much larger than POT 480 POT —+— the other, and this nedeinies again as soon as ripe. Both varieties are best ‘propagated by offsets of the root of moderate size, for if those are employed which the one variety produces on the summit of its stems, they seldom do more than in- crease in size the first year, but are pro- lific the next; this also occurs if very small offsets of the root are employed. Planting.— They may be planted during October or November, or as ear- ly in the spring as the season will allow, but not later than April. They are either to be inserted in drills, or by a blunt dibble, eight inches apart each way, not buried entirely, but the top of the offset just. level with the surface. Mr. Maher, gardener at Arundle Castle, merely places the sets on the surface, covering them with leafmould, rotten dung, or other light compost. The beds they are grown in are better not more than four feet wide, for the convenience of cultivation. Cultivation. — The only cultivation required is to keep them clear of weeds. The practice of earthing the mould over them when the stems have grown up is unnatural, and by so doing the bulbs are blanched and prevented ripening perfectly, on which so much depends their keeping. So far from following this plan, Mr. Wedgewood, of Betley, recommends the earth always to be cleared away down to the ring from whence the fibres spring, as soon as the leaves have attained their full size and begin to be brown at the top, so that a kind of basin is formed round the bulb. As soon as they vegetate, they intimate the number of offsetts that will be produced, by showing a shoot for each. ~ They attain their full growth towards the end of July; for immediate use they may be taken up as they ripen, but for keeping, a little before they attain per- fect maturity, which is demonstrated by the same symptoms as were mentioned in speaking of the onion. © POTENTILLA. One hundred and sixteen species. Hardy herbaceous, except the green-house P. lineariloba. Seed and division. Light loam. POTERIUM.. Burnet. Six species. Chiefly hardy herbaceous and shrubby. The latter are increased by young cut- tings, and the others by seed. Light rich loam. ~ _ Poterium Sanguisorba. | Upland Burnet. soups, and salads. Soil and Situation. ae delights in a dry, poor soil, abounding in calcareous matter; any light compartment that has an open exposure, therefore, may be Small, or Used in enol prego allotted to it, the only beneficial addi- tion that can be applied being brick- layers’ rubbish or fragments of chalk. A small bed will be sufficient for the supply ofa family. Propagation is either by seed, or by slips and partings of the roots, The seed may be sown towards the close of February, if open weather, and thence until the close of May; but the best: time is in autumn, as soon as it is ripe; for, if kept until the spring, it will often fail entirely, or ie in the ground until the same season of the following year, without vegetating. Insert. in drills, six inches apart, thin, and not buried more than half an inch. The plants must he kept thoroughly clear of weeds throughout their growth. When two or three inches high, thin to six inches apart, and those removed place in rows at the same distance, in a poor, shady border, water being given occasionally until they have taken root, after which they will require no further attention | until the autumn, when they must be removed to their final station, in rows a foot apart. growth, summer, to promote the production of young shoots, and in. autumn to haye the decayed stems and shoots’ cleared away. If propagated by parti ngs of the roots, the best time for practising it is in Sep- tember and October. They are planted at once where they are to remain, and only require occasional watering until established. The other ,parts of their cultivation are as for those raised from seed. To obtain Seed some of - the plants must be left. ungathered from, and al- lowed to shoot up early in the summer; they flower in July, and ripen ner ance of seed in the autumn. ~ POT-HERBS. See Herbary. When of established.» the. only attention requisite is — to cut down their stems occasionally in To Dry Pot-Herbs. — Though grow- ; ing plants can bear an elevated tem- — perature without injury, a very different effect is produced upon them by even a lower. heat after they have been sepa- POT 481 Port a rated from their roots. This has to be borne in mind in the drying of pot-herbs, which, though it is a process very sim- ple and very important for the winter cuisine that it should be conducted cor- rectly, is usually more neglected and more thoughtlessly practised than any other in the varied range of the garden- er’s duties. To demonstrate this, will only require to have pointed out how it ought to be managed. The flavour of almost every pot-herb arises from an essential oil which it secretes, and this being in the greatest abundance just previously to the opening of its flow- ers, that is the time which ought to be selected for gathering. Pot-herbs ought to be dried quickly, because if left exposed to winds, much of the es- sential oil evaporates, and mouldiness occurring and long continuing destroys it altogether; for nearly every plant has its peculiar mucor, (mould,) the food of which is the characteristic oily secretion of the plant on which it vege- tates. A dry brisk heat is therefore desirable; and as the fruit store-room ought always to have a stove, and is untenanted when herbs require drying, no other place can be more efficiently employed for the purpose. The tem- perature should be 90°, for if it exceeds this, the essential oils are apt to burst the intezuments of the containing ves- sels and to escape. Forty-eight hours, if the heat is kept up steadily, are sufh- cient to complete the process of drying. The leaves, in which alone the essen- tial oils of pot-herbs reside, should then be carefully clipped with scissors, not crushed, from the stalks, and stored in tightly corked wide-mouthed bottles. Each will thus preserve its peculiar aroma, not only through the winter, but for years, and be infinitely superior to any specimens producible in the forcing department, for these are una- voidably deficient in flavour.—Princ. of Gardening. POTHOS. Thirty-three species. Stove orchids. Division. Peat and loam. POT-MARIGOLD. Calendula officinalis. i POTTING. Pots are the first con- sideration, and these are considered under the title Flower Pot. Materials required.—These must not be sifted, but the pebbles and rough vegetable fibres be allowed to remain. 31 Mr. Errington has in his potting-shed twenty bins containing as follows:— — 1. Strong tenacious loam. 2. Half-rotten leaf-mould. 3. Heath soil. 4. Horse manure. 5. Cow manure. 6. Charcoal wood-ashes. 7. Fine bone manure. 8. Sharp sand. 9. Burnt turf of No. 1. . Sphagnum, well scalded. . Heath soil of No. 3, in one inch squares. . Loam of No. squares. . One-inch mixed drainage. . Two-inch mixed drainage. . Mixed drainage, small. . One-inch bottom-crocks. . Two-inch bottom-crocks. . Three-inch bottom-crocks. . Charcoal, large lumps. 20. One-inch boiled bone for bottoms. Bin 1. (Strong Tenacious Loam.)— This is obtained from very old rest land, ona clayey or marly sub-soil ; the more rushes and old coarse grass it contains, the. better it is for the potting-shed ; this is piled up in a sharp ridge out of doors, so as to exclude rain; it should be used for general purposes, when from six to twelve months old; I house a smaller portion in the compost shed after being dried in the sun; and this, I use for very particular purposes, such in fact as require, according to my esti- mation, lumps of turf in its native state, and for these purposes it is chopped into squares for bin 12. This loam is chop- ped down from a perpendicular facing, (like cutting hay,) when wanted for bin 1, and being somewhat mellow, a con- siderable portion of the mere soil falls out loose in the act of chopping. This is rejected, and the masses of chopped turf alone fill bin 1. Bin. 2. (Half-rotten Leaf-mould.)— This is generally slightly mixed with rotten dung, as it is the worn out pit linings, which have generally a little dung blended with the leaves. By ly- ing in the compost yard for a few months, the outside becomes mellowed down, and after shaking some of the finest out through a quarter of an inch riddle, it is passed through a sieve of at least one inch in the mesh, and what comes through this is put into bin 2. Bin 3. (Heath Soil.)—Obtained from 1, in one inch POT 482 POT ——— Delamere Forest, in parts where the heather is cut for making besoms. The upper surface of this heath soil is com- posed of heath leaves and moss, in a raw or half-decomposed state, and too fresh for the purposes of potting; but beneath this, and in contact with the gray sand, lies a flake of vegetable matter full of the roots of heather, pos- sessing little sand, and compressed by the weight of centuries. This, when divested of the dirty sand under it, and of the mossy and raw matter on the surface, is put in bin 3, after being half-dried. Bin 4. (Horse Manure, or Old Horse Droppings.)—Obtain them before high fermentation takes place, and ridge them up in the compost yard, three feet in width, three feet in height, and in- stantly roof them over (to shut in the gases) with double turves, each over- Japping the other: in this way a slight fermentation takes place, which, being arrested, is beneficial. Rain is at all times excluded from this in the compost yard by the roofing. Bin 5. (Cow Manure.)—This is cow droppings placed in a ridge, and roofed, similarly to the horse-dung, but allowed to remain to a much greater age; in fact, when placed in Bin No. 5, it has the appearance of rich peat, being at least two years old. Bin 6. (Wood Ashes and Charcoal.) —Brush-wood at bottom, covered with all sorts of garden refuse, viz. cabbage stalks, potato haulm, hedge clippings, and in fact weeds and rubbish of all kinds, which, when about half-burned, are closed up with soils of any kind, and kept smouldering for days; when the combustion is complete it is sub- jected to a riddle of an inch mesh, and what comes through is housed in a dry state in this bin, the rest belongs to bin 19. Bin 8. (Sharp Sand.)\—Coarse river sand ; but every potting-shed should be furnished with two kinds, the one very coarse and the other very fine, both as sharp as they can be obtained; the London propagating sand is an invalu- able article. Bin 10. (Sphagnum, well scalded.)— This is chiefly for orchidaceous plants, ‘and requires to be steeped in boiling water for some hours previously to be- ing transferred to this bin, in order to destroy insects. It is also useful to cover fresh sown seeds, where it is de- sirable to insure a permanent moisture without frequent watering; it also pro- duces a darkness favourable to germi- nation. = Bin 13. (One-inch Drainage termed No. 1.)—-This is composed of about equal parts of boiled bone, charcoal, and pounded crocks, in lumps averaging an inch square, and intended to cover the rough crock placed over the hole of pots, from No. 32 to No. 16 of the Lon- don sizes inclusive. Bin 19. (Charcoal in large lumps.)— This is used to mix with the potsherds for orchidaceous plants, and when large masses are wanted for very large shifts. Bin 20. (One-tnch boiled Bone.) — This is used after the manner of No. 19, when considered requisite. To the above may be added old tan, riddled particularly clean; to be intermixed with or placed over the drainage; for such it answers exceedingly well, not- withstanding the prejudice against it. It is very well adapted for annuals in pots, a single crock with a handful or two of old tan over it, provides a safe drainage for a season, and withal a rooting medium.—Gard. Chron. Care required.—A principal object to be aimed at in potting is complete drain- age, for nothing is more injurious to most plants than stagnant water about their roots. The drainage is best ef- fected by filling one-fourth the depth of the pot with the larger fragments of bones and charcoal mixed in equal pro- portions; this and the pebbles, woody fibres, &c., which are now allowed to remain in the soil, will remove from it all superfluous water. Dryness in the centre of the ball of earth is another evil to be avoided. Though not usual- ly suspected, it occurs more often than excess of wet, and deprives the roots of a large proportion of their pasturage. To prevent it, a small rod of iron should be thrust through the earth around the stem occasionally, to allow the water poured upon the surface a freer en- trance. Mr. Moore, to effect the same, says—‘* Whenever a plant (most parti- cularly a valuable specimen plant) is repotted, either in its infancy or in its maturity, I would introduce a few sticks of charcoal perpendicularly into the pot; these should be long enough to extend from the bottom of the pot to the top of the soil; about three might POU 483 PRO —_}——- be placed at regular interyals, and they should be as close to the roots, and as near to thé centre of the pots as possi- ble. Thus if a plant is shifted but once, it will be provided with some chan- nels for moisture, extending throughout the soil, and if it be frequently repotted, the number of these channels may be increased. When these are once in- troduced into the soil they are perma- nent; for being of material which is not subject to rapid decay, they will serve at least the lifetime of a plant, and by occasionally making use of a simple siphon, a mere worsted thread, in contact with moisture, a slow, mo- derate, and constant supply of moisture may be conveyed at pleasure to and through the centre of the soil, and the whole mass may thus be kept regularly and equably moistened.??—-Gard. Chron. See One-Shift System. POUPARTIA. Three species. Stove evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat.. ; POURRETIA. Five species. Stove herbaceous. P. magnispatha is an or- chid. Seed and suckers. Sandy loam and peat. . PRATIA. Three species. Green- house herbaceous. Seed and division. Sandy loam and peat. PREMNA. Four species. evergreen shrubs. Loam and peat. PRES LIA cervina. Hardy herba- Stove Seed and cuttings. ceous. Division. Moist soil. PRESTONIA. Two species. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. - PRICKLY CEDAR. Cyathodes ory- cedrus. PRIESTLEYA. Fourteen species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. PRIMROSE. Primula vulgaris. PRIMULA. Forty-nine species and many varieties. Herbaceous and all hardy except the fringed green-house varieties, P. prenitens, and the species P. verticillata. Division and seed. Loam and leaf-mould. P. auricula. See Auricula, P. elatior. Oxlip. P. prenitens or sinensis. Chinese Primrose. This is hardy if grown in a light, well-drained soil, but its white and pink fringed varieties require win- tering in the green-house. P. veris. Cowslip. P.vulgaris, Primrose. Of this there. are the following cultivated varieties: Brimstone; Crimson; Hose-in-hose; Li- lac ; Purple; Scotch; Stemless White; White and Yellow. All the species may be cultivated like the Polyanthus. PRINCE, WILLIAM. The name of Prince is identified with American hor- ticulture. Perhaps no man has done more to gratify the taste of amateurs of flowers and fruit than the late William Prince, whose extensive grounds at Flushing, New York, were the nursery of almost every vegetable calculated to please the eye or palate. We regret that there is not within our reach the data from which to draft a particular description of the foundation, rise and progress of the ‘¢ Linnean Botanic Garden.” PRINCE’S FEATHER. thus hypochondriacus. PRINOS. Eleven species. Hardy deciduous’ shrubs, except the stove evergreen P. montanus and P. lucidus, which is evergreen and hardy. Cut- tings and layers. Light loam and peat. PRISMATOCARPUS. Four species. P. diffusus is a green-house evergreen shrub; P. fruticosus is a hardy ever- green shrub; the others green-house herbaceous. Young cuttings and seed. Sandy loam and peat. PRIVET. Ligustrum. Amaran- PROCKIA. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. oth PROLIFEROUS. See Double- Flower. PROPS are the supports required by plants to sustain them in: a desired position. They must vary in height and strength accordantly with the plant to which they are applied, and should always be as slight as is consistent with efficiency. Nothing looks worse than a disproportioned prop; indeed it should be concealed as much as pos- sible. The props for peas should be of the branches of the hazel; for run- ner kidney beans, rods of ash. For flowers, stout iron wire painted dark green are to be preferred. Some flowers require props of a peculiar form; but these will be described when giving directions for their cul- ture. Whenever wovoden props are PRO 484 PRU ——_~—— used, the end thrust into the ground should be previously charred; if this precaution be taken, and when no longer required, they are stored in a dry shed, they will last for several ‘seasons. Props should be placed on the south sides of the plants, as they ‘incline in that direction, as being most light. “PROSERPINACA. Two species. Half-hardy annual aquatics. Seed. Rich loam in water. PROSOPIS. Five species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Peat and loam. PROSTANTHERA. Seven species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. cuttings. Sandy peat. PROTEA. _ Forty-seven species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings taken off at a joint ; sandy turfy loam, well drained. Water moderate- ly, but regularly. PRUNELLA. Self-Heal. Fourteen species. P. Browniana and P. ovata are hardy annuals, the others hardy herbaceous. Seed or division. Light rich loam. : PRUNING, as practised in the gar- den, has for its object the regulation of the branches to secure the due pro- ductien of blossom and maturity of fruit. If carried to too great an extent, that object is not attained, for every tree requires a certain amount of Jeaf- surface for the elaboration of its sap ; and, therefore, if this be reduced too much, blossom buds are prodnced less abundantly, for leaves are more neces- sary for the health of the plant, and by a wise provision the parts less requi- site for individual vigour are super- seded by the parts more needed. On the other hand, if the branches are left too thick, they overshadow those be- neath them, and so exclude the light, as to prevent that elaboration of the sap, without which no blossom buds are formed, but an excessive produc- tion of leaves, in the vain effort to at- tain by an enlarged surface that elabo- ration which a smaller surface would effect in a more intense light. The appropriate pruning is given when considering each species of fruit trees, and here we must confine ourselves to a few general remarks: “* The season for pruning must be regulated in some degree by the strength of the tree; for although, as a general rule, Young the operation should not take place un- til the fall of the leaf indicates that vegetation has ceased, yet if the tree be. weak, it may be often performed with advantage a little earlier; but still so late in the autumn as to pre- vent the protrusion of fresh shoots. This reduction of the branches before the tree has finished vegetating, directs a greater supply of sap to those re- maining, and stores up in them the supply for increased growth next sea- son. If the production of spurs is the object of pruning a branch, it should be pruned so as to leave a stump; because as the sap supplied to the branch will be concentrated upon those buds. re- maining at its extremity, these will be productive of shoots, though otherwise they would have remained dormant, it being the general habit of plants first to develop and mature parts that are far- thest from the roots. It is thus the filbert is induced to put forth an abund- ance of young bearing wood, for its fruit is borne on the annual shoots, and similar treatment to a less severe ex- tent is practised upon wall fruit.??— Princ..of Gardening. The mystery of pruning consists in being well acquainted with the mode of the bearing of the different sorts of trees, and forming an early judgment of the future events of shoots and branches, and many other circum- stances, for which some principal rules may be given; but there are particular instances which cannot be judged of | but upon the spot, and depend: chief- ly upon practice and observation.— Peaches, nectarines, apricots, &c., all produce their fruit principally upon the young wood of a year old; that is, the shoots produced this year bear the year following ; so that in all these trees, a general supply of the best shoots of each year must be everywhere pre- served at regular distances, from the very bottom to the extremity of the tree on every side; but in winter prun- ing, or general shortening, less or more, according to the strength of the different shoots, is necessary, in order to promote their throwing out, more effectually, a supply of young wood the ensuing summer, in proper place for training in for the nimeari sn year’s bearing. Vines also” produce their fruit always upon the young wood shoots of the PRU 485 PRU ———_}-—_—— same year, arising from the eyes of the _Jast year’s wood only; and must, there- fore, have a general supply of the best regular shoots of each year trained in, which, in winter pruning, must be shortened to a few eyes, in order to force out shoots from their lower parts, only properly situated to lay in for bear- ing the following year. Figs bear also only upon the young wood of a year old, and a general sup- ply of it is, therefore, necessary every year; but these shoots must at no time be shortened, unless the ends are dead, because they always bear principally towards the extreme part of the shoots, which, if shortened, would take the bearing or fruitful parts away ; besides, they naturally throw out a sufficient supply of shoots every year for future bearing, without the precaution of shortening. Apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees bear principally on spurs, arising in the wood of from two or three, to ten or twenty years old, the same branches and spurs continuing bearing a great number of years; so that, having once procured a proper set of branches in the manner already directed to form a spreading head, no farther supply of wood is wanted than some occasional shoots now and then to supply the place of any worn out or dead branch. The above-mentioned spurs or fruit- buds are short robust roots of from about half an inch to one or two inches long, arising naturally, first towards the extreme parts of the branches of two or three years old, and, as the branch in- creases in length, the number of fruit- buds increases accordingly. In pruning always cut quite close, both in the summer and winter prun- ing, which, in the summer pruning, if attended to early, while the shoots are quite young and tender, they may rea- dily be rubbed off quite close with the thumb; but when the shoots become older and woody, as they will not rea- dily break, it must be done witha knife, cutting them as close as possible; and all winter pruning must always be per- formed with a knife. In pruning in summer, the necessary supply of regu- lar shoots left for training in should never be shortened during this season, unless to particular shoots,,to fill a va- cancy; for, by a general shortening in this season, all the shoots so treated would soon push again vigorously from every eye, and render the trees a thick- et of useless wood. Therefore, all sorts, whether they require shortening in the winter pruning or not, should, in the summer dressing, be layed in at full length; but towards the end of Au- gust, the extreme points may be pinch- ed off with great advantage. The sap is thus made to complete the growth of the shoot, and not to increase its length ; and it is too late in the season for fresh shoots to be induced. Summer pruning is a most necessary operation. Young shoots require thin- ning to preserve the beauty of the trees, and encourage the fruit; and the soon- er-it is performed the better.. It is, therefore, advisable to begin this work in May, or early in June, removing all superfluous growths and ill placed shoots, which may be performed with considerably more expedition and ex- actness than when after the trees have shot a considerable length. Where, however, a tree is inclined to luxuri- ancy, it is proper to retain as many of the regular shoots as can be commodi- ously trained in with any regularity, in order to divide and exhaust the too abundant sap. It will be necessary to review the trees occasionally, in order to reform such branches or shoots as may have started from their places, or taken a wrong direction; also that, ac- cordingly as any fresh irregular shoots produced since the general dressing may be displaced ; and, likewise, as the already trained shoots advanced in length, or project. from the wall or espalier, they should be trained in close. In the winter pruning, a general re- gulation must be observed, both of the mother branches, and the supply of young wood laid in the preceding sum- mer ; and the proper time for this work is any time in open weather, from the fall of the leaf in November, until March; but the sooner the better. In performing this work, it is proper to unnail or loosen a chief part of the branches, particularly of peaches, nec- tarines, apricots, vines, and other trees requiring an annual supply of young wood. First look overall the principal or mother branches, and examine it any are worn out, or not furnished with parts proper for bearing fruit, and let such branches be cut down to the great PRU 486 PSY —————— branch from which they proceed, or to any lower shoot or bottom part, leaving these to supply its place. Likewise examine if any branches are become too _long for the allotted space, either at sides or top, and let them be reformed accordingly, by shortening them down to some lower shoot or branch proper- ly situated to supply the place, being careful that every branch terminates in a young shoot for a leader, and not stumped off at the extremity. From the principal or larger branches pass to the shoots of the year which were train- ed up in summer, first cutting out close all foreright and other irregular shoots that may have been omitted in the sum- mer pruning; likewise all very weak shoots, and those of very luxuriant growth, unless it be necessary to keep some to supply a vacant place. In this pruning, as in the summer Gressing, it is of importance to have a strict eye to the lower parts. of wall-trees, &c., to see if there is any present vacancy, or any that apparently will soon happen, in which cases, if any good shoot is situated contiguous, it should be train- ed in, either at full length, or shorten it to a few eyes, to force out two or more shoots, if they shall seem necessary; for precaution should ever be observed in taking care to have betimes a sufficient -stock of young wood coming forward to fill up any casual vacancy, and substi- tute a new set of branches in place of such as are either decayed or stand in need of retrenchment. Sometimes in wall-trees and espaliers there are many large disagreeable bar- ren spurs, consisting both of old worn out fruit spurs, and of clusters of stumps of shortened shoots projecting conside- rably from the branches, occasioned by unskilful pruning, when retrenching the superabundant and irregular shoots which, instead of being cut out close, are stumped off to an inch or two long. At this season of pruning, it is advisable to reform them as well as possible, by cutting all the most disagreeable stumps close to the branches, Jeaving these at full length, especially if apples, pears, | &c., and reserve an occasional supply of young wood in different parts, and thus, in two or three years, you may reduce such trees to a regular figure, and a proper state of bearing. Too severe pruning is greatly preju- dicial to the health of some sorts of fruit. Plums and cherries, i in particu- lar, are often greatly damaged by a too severe discipline of the knife, these ‘trees being very liable to gum by large amputations. It is, therefore, of import- ance to attend to these trees well in the summer pruning, to retrench all the superfluous and irregular shoots while quite young, and pinch others occasion- ally where wood is wanted to fill va- cancies, so as to require but little prun- ing out of large wood in winter.— Abercrombie. PRUNING APPARATUS. In all mechanical operations success is more certainly attained by the use of proper implements; though pruning or the lop- ping of branches” may be very simple, yet there is great advantage in execut- ing it with the instruments best adapted to the purpose, most of which are de- scribed in these pages, under their proper heads. PRUNUS. Plum. Eight species and many varieties. P. domestica, see Plum. All hardy deciduous trees. Seed, suck- ers, and grafting or budding. Common soil, well drained. PSIDIUM. Guava. Thirteen spe- cies. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Loam and peat. PSOPHOCARPUS. fetragono- bulus. Annual stove twiner. Seed. Light rich loam. PSORALEA. Forty-two species. The green-house and stove evergreens are increased by cuttings; the half- hardy herbaceous, by seed and cut- tings; the biennials, by seed. All re- quire light loam and peat. PSYCHOTRIA. Sixteen species. P. daphnoides is a green-house evergreen shrub; P. parasitica is a parasite, and the others stove evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. PSYLLA. The chermes, nearly allied to the aphis. P. pyri, Pear chermes, appears in May, not unlike a large aphis, crimson coloured, shaded with black. Mr. Kollar thus details its habits :— «¢ As soon as the fruit trees put out buds, the winged chermes makes its appearance. When pairing is over, the female lays her eggs in great numbers near each other on the young leaves and blossoms, or on the newly formed fruitand shoots. They are of a longish shape, and yellow; and, without a mag- nifying glass, they resemble the pollen Ps Y! 487 PTE ee of flowers. They are called either nymphs or larve in this state (accord-. ing. to the extent of their develop- ment); and, like their parents, have their mouth in the breast. After a few days, they change their skins, and be- come darker, and somewhat reddish on the breast, and rather resemble bugs than plant-lice, having the extreme point of the body somewhat broad, and beset with bristles. After changing their skins, they leave the leaves, blos- soms, and fruit, and proceed more downwards to the bearing wood and the shoots of last year, on which they fix themselves securely, one after the other, in rows, and. remain there till their last transformation. ‘¢ When the nymphs have moulted for the last time, and have attained their full size, the body swells out by de- grees, and becomes cylindrical. They then leave their associates, and before they lay aside their nymph-like cover- ing, they search out a leaf to which they fasten themselves firmly, and ap- pear asif they were lifeless. After a few minutes the skin splits on the upper part of the covering, and a winged in- sect proceeds from it. It is of a plea- sant green colour, with red eyes, and snow-white wings. It very much re- sembles its parents in spring, even in the colour. After a few days, this chermes. has assumed the colours of the perfect insect; the head, collar, and thorax, are of an orange colour, and only the abdomen retains its green hue. It now flies away from the place of its birth, to enjoy the open air.’ ' P. mali. Apple Chermes. For the following I am also indebted to the too much neglected work of M. Kollar :— ‘It usually appears in June. In September, the apple chermes pair, and lay their eggs. They are white, and pointed at both ends, a line and a half long, and the fourth of a line thick, and become yellow before the young escapes. The apple chermes lays its eggs in different places of the twigs of an apple-tree; usually, however, in the furrows of the knots, and sometimes in a very regular manner. The larve were scarcely escaped from the egg, in _ the open air, when they hastened. to the nearest bud, and began to gnaw its scales, because the bud was only some- what swollen, and had not begun to sprout. On the second day after their birth, they cast their first skin, after. which they appeared nearly of their former shape and colour. The second changing of the skin can sometimes be scarcely seen at all, because the larva not only puts out a ‘thicker string with the tubercle, but also an immense num- ber of very fine entangled threads or small hairs, which it turns upwards over its back, and with them entirely covers its body and head. In sunshine, these strings look transparent, as if they were made of glass, and become of a greenish variable colour. Under this screen the chermes are secured from every attack of other insects; for no ants, mites, or bugs can disturb ~ them. in their fortification, or consume them as their prey. After changing the second skin, the young assumed a different colour and form; they now became light green all over, the abdo- men was much broader than the thorax, and on the side of the latter, rudiments of the wings were distinctly seen. The third time of changing the skin comes on in about eight days, sometimes sooner and sometimes later, according to the weather. After this skin the wing rudiments very distinctly make their appearance, and become larger and whiter the nearer the insect ap- proaches to the perfect state. The body is also of a light green, and the larve have black eyes, and blackish antenne. At last the time arrives when the insect assumes the perfect state ; when it retires to a part of a leaf which it had selected, and after having firmly fixed itself there, the back splits open, and the beautiful winged chermes ap- pears from the nymph. The back of the thorax is of a light green, the abdo- men is marked with yellow rings, and the membranous wings with strongly marked snow-white veins.”’ P. crategi infests the camellia. It is destroyed by syringing with tobacco water, or diluted gas ammoniacal liquor, until the insects are dead, and then syringing with water only. P. ficus and P. rose, are respectively on the fig and rose trees. PTELEA ¢trifoliata. Hardy decidu- ous shrub. Layers. Light rich loam. ~PTELIDIUM ovatum. Stove ever- green shrub. Ripe cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. PTERIS. Forty-six species. Stove, green-house, and hardy and herbaceous PTE 488 PU? —_e— ferns. Division and seed. Sandy loam and peat. PTEROCARPUS. Eight species. P. scandens is a stove climber, and the others stove evergreen trees. Young cuttings. Rich light loam. PTEROCEPHALUS. Four species. P. dumetorum is a green-house ever- green shrub, the others are hardy an- nuals; the first is increased by cuttings, and all by seed. Light loam. PTERODISCUS speciosus. Stove tu- ber. Division. Rich sandy loam. Pro- bably half-hardy. PTERONEURON. ‘Two species. One herbaceous, the other annual; both hardy. Seed. Light loam. PTERONIA. Nine species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam and peat. PTEROSPERMUM. _ Six species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. PTEROSTYLIS. Green-house orchids. loam and peat. PTILOSTEPHIUM. ‘Two species. Hardy annuals. Seed, in a hot-bed; and seedlings planted in light open border. PUCCOON. Sanguinaria. PUDDLING. See Mudding. PUERARIA. Two species. house evergreen climbers. Sandy loam and peat. PULMONARIA. Eight species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Light loam. — - PULTEN/MA. Fifty species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Half-ripe cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. PUMPKIN. | Cucurbita pepo. Gourd. ; PUNICA. Pomegranate. Two spe- cies, and several varieties. Halfhardy deciduous shrubs. All are increased by cuttings and layers, and the less common by grafting on the more com- mon. Light rich loam. The-fruit of the common pomegranate, P, granatum, ripens well against a south wall. Twelve species. Division. Sandy Green- Cuttings. See PUNNET. See Basket. PURSBIA tridentata. Hardy ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Light well drained loam. PURSH, FREDERICK, was a native of Germany, and is distinguished as an early classifier of our native vegetables. He immigrated to the United States somewhere about 1800, and was for a short period, we believe, in charge of the Hamilton collection, at the Wood- lands, near Philadelphia. His ‘‘Flora Septentrionalis, or a systematic arrange- ment and description of the plants of North America,”? is a standard work, and evinces his thorough acquaintance with the subject. But little is known of Pursh’s personal history. PURSLANE. Portulaca. P. oleracea. Green, or Garden Purs- lane. P. sativa. Golden Purslane. Soil and Situation.—A light rich soil is the one in which they thrive most, and they must have a warm situation, as a south border. Sow in February and early in March, in a moderate hot- bed, to remain where sown; and at the close of March, and once monthly, during April, May, and the summer months until the end of August, in the open ground. Sow in drills six inches apart, very thin, and about halfaninchdeep. The plants soon make their appearance. They must be kept clear of weeds, and thinned to six or eight inches asunder. In dry weather water is required mode- rately two or three times a week. In general, they are ready for gather- ing from in six weeks after sowing, the young shoots being made use of from two to five inches in length, and the plants branch out again. The hot-bed crops require the air to be admitted as freely as possible, the temperature ranging between. 50 and to": To obtain Seed.—As a small quantity will suffice for the largest family, a few of the earliest border-raised plants must be left ungathered from; the strongest and largest leaved being selected; they blossom in June and July. They must be cut immediately the seed is ripe, laid ~ on a cloth, and when perfectly dry, thrashed. The refuse is best separated by means of a very fine sieve. PURSLANE-TREE. Portulacaria. PUSCHKINIA scilloides. Half-hardy bulb. Offsets. Sandy loam. PUTTY is a compound of boiled lin- seed oil and whiting, but as it may be bought in London at half-a-guinea per cwt., it is scarcely worth the gardener’s while to make it. One hundred weight is enough for puttying about three hun- dred square feet of glass. Old Putty may be softened by apply- PYC ing to it rags dipped in a saturated solu- tion of caustic potash, leaving them on for twelve hours; or by rubbing a hot iron along the putty. If the gardener does make putty, the whiting should be well dried, and then pounded and sifted till it becomes a fine powder, and is quite free from grit. The whiting, a little warm, should be gradually added to the oil, and well mixed by means ofa piece of stick, or a spatula. When it is sufficiently stiff, it should be well worked with the hand on a table, and afterwards beaten on a stone with a wooden mallet, till it be- comes a soft, smooth, tenacious mass. A ball of putty, when left some days, becomes somewhat hard, but may be easily softened by beating. ‘ PYCNANTHEMUM.. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous. Division. Peat, with a little light loam. PYCNOSTACHIS cerulea. Stove annual. Seed. Light rich loam. PYRALIS forficalis. Cabbage-gar- den Pebble Moth. Its appearance and habits are thus detailed by M. Kollar: The head, back, and upper wings of the moth are hazel-brown, and brown- ish gold; the antenne light brown; the abdomen and under wings whitish. On the upper wings are two distinct, and | two faint deep rusty-brown stripes. The first brood flies in May, and the second in August. The caterpillar is _ found in May and June, and the second generation in September and October. It has a light-brown head, and a yel- lowish-green body, with blackish stripes running lengthwise, and blackish ‘dots having fine white lines between, and white incisions and spiracles. Its length is about eight lines. When these cater- pillars are numerous, they do important damage to the cabbage tribe; and horse- radish. PYRASTER. Pyrus communis py- raster. i PYRETHRUM. Fifty species. Hardy herbaceous, and green-house evergreen shrubs, except a few hardy annuals, and P. simplicifolium, which is a stove evergreen trailer. The shrubs are increased. by cuttings, the herba- ceous by division, and the annuals by seed. A light rich loam suits the whole. _-PYROLA. Eight species. Hardy herbaceous. Division and seed. Shady border of peat, with a little light loam. 489 QUI PYROLIRION aureum. Green-house bulb. Offsets. Sandy loam. PYRULARIA pubera. deciduous shrub. Cuttings. loam. PYRUS. Forty-four species, and very numerous varieties. Seed, cuttings, and grafting. Light loam, well drained. See Apple, Pear, and Service. PYXIDANTHERA barbulata. Half- hardy trailer. Cuttings and division. Peat, and a little sandy loam. QUAMOCLIT. Ten species. Herb- aceous, and annual. Q. sanguinea is evergreen. Young cuttings or seed. Light rich loam. QUENOUILLE is a fruit tree, with a central stem, and its branches trained in horizontal tiers, the lowest being the longest, and the others of course gradu- ally lessening in length as they-do in age, so that the tree, like a spruce fir, acquires a pyramidal] form. QUERCUS. The Oak. Forty-eight species, and many varieties. Hardy evergreen and deciduous trees.. Seed, and grafting for some of the merely or- namental kinds. Deep clayey loam in valleys. Q. cerris, Bitter Oak. Q. robur or sessiliflorum, Common Oak. Q. iler, Evergreen Oak. QUICKSET, the same as the Haw- thorn, or Whitethorn, Crategus orya- cantha. See Hedge. QUINCE. C sydbnia vulgaris. —_ Varieties:-—Common ; Apple-shaped ; Pear-shaped ; and Portugal. The last is the best, and very distinct from the others. C. sinensis, the Chinese Quince, has been fruited in this country, but it requires a wall. The fruit is very dif- ferent from that of either the common or Portugal quinces; it is cylindrical, about six inches in length, and exceed- ingly gritty. Method of Propagation and general Culture.—The trees may be raised from seed sown in autumn, but there is no Half-hardy Light | certainty of having the same or any good fruit from seedlings: But the several varieties may be propagated by cuttings and layers; also by suckers from such trees as grow upon their own roots, and by grafting and budding upon their own or pear-stocks. The propagation by cuttings, layers, and suckers, may be performed in autumn, winter, or early spring. Choose young wood for the cuttings and layers. They will be rooted by QUI 490 “— RAD ey SSE next autumn; then transplant into nur- sery rows two feet asunder; plant the suckers also at the same distance, and train the whole for the purposes intend- ed; if for standards with a stem, to any desired height, from three to six feet; then encourage them to branch out at top, to form a head ; and those designed as dwarfs must be headed near the ground, and trained accordingly, for espaliers or dwarf standards. When they have formed tolerable heads, plant them out finally. Standard quinces, designed as fruit trees, may be stationed in the garden or orchard and some by the sides of any water in by places, suffering the whole to take their own natural growth. And as espaliers they may be arranged with other mode- rate growing trees, about fifteen feet apart.— Abercrombie. QUINCUNX is the form resulting from planting in rows, with one plant opposite the centre of each vacancy in the row on each side of it, as in this diagram.— Fig. 138. e & e e e e e @ ea) e QUISQUALIS. Four species. Stove evergreen climbers. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. QUIVISIA heterophylla. Stove ever- green shrub. Ripe cuttings. Peat and light loam. RADISH.— ‘The Radish is originally from the East Indies, but cultivated in Europe since the sixteenth century. Formerly the leaves were often boiled and stewed; but now the roots are chiefly employed. The young seedling leaves are often used with cress and mustard, as small salad, and radish seed pods, when of. plump growth, but still young and green, are used to increase the variety of vegetable pickles, and are considered a tolerable substitute for capers. ‘¢ The well known manner in which this vegetable is cultivated, renders any observations thereon unnecessary. All that is required, is to point out the varieties which answer best at different seasons of the year. For the early crops, use the Long Scarlet Short Top ; the Long Salmon, similar to the above, but of lighter colour, and white at the point; the Scarlet Turnip Rooted, and White Turnip Rooted; frequent sow- ings are necessary, as all the foregoing soon become pithy and shoot to seed. In flavour they differ but little; dis- crimination is from fancy. At the same time the early kinds are sown, make a sowing of the Yellow Turnip, and Summer White, which are fine kinds, withstand the heat, and are firm. and crisp even in hot weather; frequent sowings of these, as well as the White Spanish or Black Spanish, as most liked, should be made during the summer months. The two latter kinds sown in the autumn, keep well throughout the winter, if secured from frost. In the autumn, any of the early kinds may be again sown ; when about to do so, al- ways observe to dig the earth deeply, and pulverize it well, which tends to produce fine shaped roots. Marni we Reg. To obtain Seed.—Leave in Apiil or early May, some of the most perfect plants of a main crop. When in full vigour they must be taken up with as_ little injury as possible to the roots and leaves, and planted in rows three feet asunder each way, being inserted by the dibble, completely down to the leaves. Water must be applied until they have taken root, and occasionally throughout their growth, especially when in flower. If practicable, it is best to leave some plants where raised. To obtain seeds of the Black Span- ish, some seeds must be sown in March, or some of the winter-standing crop left or transplanted during that month. The flowers epen from June until August, and their pods are of a size fit for pickling, as they must be gathered whilst young and tender, during that last month, or July. For seed, they must be cut as soon as they become of a brown hue, and well dried, otherwise it will thresh with difficulty. Two varieties must never be daibesl near each other, and seed of the pre- vious year’s raising should a be employed. Forcing.—A moderate hot-bed is re- quired for this crop, of a length ac- cording with that of the frame to be ee a a ee RAF 491 RAM 4 employed; the earth about eight inches deep, on the surface of which the seed is to be sown as soon as the violent heat is abated, and an additional half- inch sifted over it. The seedlings are in general up in less than a week, and in six they will be ready to draw. Throughout their growth air must be admitted as freely as is allowable. The glasses, however, must be closed on the approach of even- ing, and mats or other covering put on in proportion to the severity of the sea- son. When the earth appears at all dry, a light watering must be given during the noon. The plants must not stand nearer than two inches to each other. The temperature required is from 50° to 70°; and it must be kept to this heat by moderate coatings as required. - If there be a deficiency of frames, hoops and mats may be employed, a Fig. frame of boards being formed round the bed, light and air being admitted as freely and as oftenas possible. If seed is sown within a frame without any bottom heat, the plants will be two or three weeks forwarder than if sown in the open ground. v Green- . RAFNIA. Five species. house evergreen shrubs. R. triflora is a biennial. Young cuttings. Peat and loam. RAGGED ROBIN. Lychnis Flos- cucult. ; RAGS. See Vegetable Manures. RAGWORT. = Othonara. RAGWORT. Senecio Jacobea. RAILING is of various forms, but all, if made of wood, are soon decayed if slight, and clumsy and inelegant if strong. Iron railing is at once light, neat, and enduring, and like the follow- ing, may be purchased in England for about fifty cents per yard. 139. RAKE (Fig. 140). ‘‘Garden Rakes vary in the length and strength of their teeth, as well as in their number; they are used for covering seeds, raking off weeds or cut grass, smoothing and pulverizing surface, &c. This imple- ment is now much less in use than formerly, when broadcast sowing was prevalent. Now the broad hoe is quite as efficient in covering drill-sown seed. Fig. 146. “The Grass Lawn Rake, (Fig. 141,) has teeth sharpened on both edges, and is used for raking the grass in order to cut off the flower heads or buds of daisies, dandelions, and other plants, and the uneven tufts on grass lawns.” —Rural Reg. ©) RAMONDIA pyrenaica. Hardy herb- aceous perennial. Division. Light soil. RAMPION. Phyteuma and Cyphia Phyteuma. RAMPION. Campanula rapunculus. Soil and Situation.—The soil ought to be moderately moist, but it must be light. A shady rich border is most favourable. If it is cloddy or subject RAN 492 RAN et to bind and crack in hot weather, the plants will not thrive. Time and Mode of Sowing, during March, April, and May, the plants from sowing in the two first months, soon, however, run up to seed. ' The insertions are to be performed in drills six inches apart. The plants are to remain where sown ; though in case of any deficiency, those which are taken away in thinning the crops, may be transplanted successfully, if removed to a-border similar to the seed-bed, and inserted with the roots perpendicular, and without pressing the mould too close about them. The best time for performing the removal is of an evening. : They are fit for thinning when of six or eight weeks’ growth, or when about two inches in height; they must be set at a distance of six inches apart, being hoed at the time, and the same opera- tion repeated two or three times. The plants of the sowings during the two first-mentioned months will be fit for use at the close of August, or early in September, and continue throughout the autumn. Those of the last one will continue good throughout the winter, and until the following April. The soil throughout their growth must be kept moist by giving frequent but moderate waterings through the fine rose of a watering-pot, as required. The root for which it is cultivated, either to be sliced together with its leaves in salads, or eaten as the radish, as well as to be boiled like asparagus, is most palatable when drawn young, and eaten fresh from the ground. To obtain Seed. — A few of the winter-standing plants are left unmoved. These shoot up in the spring, flowering in July and August, and ripening abund- ance of seed in early autumn. Nothing more is necessary than to gather it be- fore it begins to scatter, and to lay it on a cloth to become perfectly dry before thrashing. | - RANDIA. Tenspecies. Stove ever- green shrubs. Partly ripe cuttings. Loam and peat, and a strong moist heat. RANUNCULUS. One hundred and two species, and: many varieties. R. asiaticus, the Garden Ranunculus, is a truly beautiful flower, unfortunately not adapted to the climate of the United States. Varieties :—Mr. Jackson, the florist of Kingston, has published the follow- ing selection :— CLASS I.—SELFS. il Noir, very fine, dark rich colour; Naxara extra, fine dark (one of the best of its class); Fete Nocturne, rich pur- ple, fine; Duke of Bedford, large fine formed, crimson; Giles’s Eliza, very fine, straw, extra form, super variety ; Costar’s Apollo, very fine dark, rather coarse; Plaisance, very fine, yellow, good form; Les Vos, dark purple, very fine; Rosa Montana, superior bright rosy crimson, excellent form; Tyso’s Nivis, fine white ; Costar’s Tippoo Saib, rich dark ; Condorcet, fine pure purple ;' Bouquet Nonpareil, dark olive, very fine. CLASS II. Flavimorus, cream, with purple edge, very fine; Tyso’s Victoria, clear white, with crimson edge, very fine; Aust’s Henrietta, white, crimson-edged, good shape, very fine; Horatio, yellow-edged, fine free bloomer, not quite a pure ground; Tyso’s Herbert, yellow, with red edge, very fine ; Temeraire, white, red-striped (one of the best of its class); . Lightbody’s William Penn, white, with purple edge, very fine, strongly marked ground, colour seldom pure; Melange des Beautés, red and yellow-striped (an excellent old flower, merits well known) ; Tyso’s Alexis, yellow-spotted, extra fine, good form ; Tyso’s Attractor, white, with purple edge, large, very fine ; Kilgour’s Queen Victoria, cream, crimson-edged, large, and extra fine ; .Costar’s Coronation, half pink mottled, very fine; Grand Monarque, yellow- edged, fine petals, rather loose; Aust’s Nonsuch, white, purple-edged, distinct, very fine; Tyso’s Felix, buff, with dis- tinct spot, extra fine; Lightbody’s No Mistake, cream, purple-edged, strong marking, very fine; Dr. Franklin, fine clear white, with purple edge, very fine; Tyso’s Edgar, yellow-coffee-edged, ex- cellent form, extra fine; Quentin Dur- ward, yellow-edged, very fine colours, rather thin; Tyso’s Delectus, yellow, red-edged, very fine; Lightbody’s Rob Roy, cream, crimson edge, very fine ; Imbert, yellow, with faint-brown spot, very good ; Tyso’s Harmonius, yellow, with dark spot, extra (one of the best of its class); Herald, white, crimson-edged, very fine, excellent shape, high crown ; Tyso’s Creon, buff, dark edging, very RAN fine; Glacia, yellow-mottled, large and very fine; Paxos, white, with deep purple edge, extra fine; Biddal’s Duke of Wellington, yellow, delicate-edged, very fine; Macrobius, white spotted, very fine; Lightbody’s Endymion, white, with delicate rose edging, very good ; Tyso’s Premium, white, purple spot, very fine, high crown; Aust’s Queen Victoria, white, with delicate edging, very fine; Saladin, fine yellow, with faint spot; Sophia, cream, with rose edge, very good; Tyso’s Vendome, cream, with dark purple edge, extra fine, rather spotted: Waterstone’s Epirus, yellow - spotted, very fine.— Gard. Chron. Character Sportive,—< ‘ There is in the ranunculus what is by florists called a sportive character—that is, they run from their original colour. Some that have yellow ground, delicately spotted, will come plain yellow, and some red and white striped will come plain red ; sometimes the colours will mix, and the flowers will become dingy.”,— Gard. Chron. ‘¢ Sometimes the flowers will’ be as green as the grass of the plants from which they grow. Some of the finest seedlings are weak, and therefore die in a few years, though for a short time they had great renown. Such has been the case with Abbé St. Andrew, Quixos Viol le Vrai Noir, Grand Berger, and Rose Incomparable, and some others of Jater date. But there are others of first-rate character which are remark- ably strong, and increase abundantly, such as Attractor, Felix, Saladin, Ed- gar, Eureka, Victor, and many others.’ —Ibid. Characteristics of a Good Flower. — ‘The form of the ranunculus should be two-thirds of a ball; petals, broad, thick, free from notch or. indentation, cupping a little, and so disposed that each cover the place where the two under ones join; commonly concealing the anthers, abundance of petals lying close over each other, and forming a compact flower, open enough to show the colour on their inside, but ‘not enough to be loose; and the under ones must hold well in their places, forming a square, if not a hollow back. The stem thick, strong, and elastic; but the flower upright, and from one and a half to two inches in diameter. The colour is a matter of taste, but 493 RAN must be dense and distinct; the purer the white or yellow, and the more con- trasted the edging or spotting is, the better the flower; in selfs the more brilliant the colour is, the more likely to be attractive; but so long as the colour is decided, the only advantage that can be gained by colour is novelty. The outside of the petal should be as bright as the inside. If shown in a stand, there must not be two alike: all the flowers in a row should be of one size, and the back row the largest.”’ Propagation.—By Seed.—To the Rev. Joseph Tyso we are indebted for the following directions :— <¢ Impregnate the double flowers with the farina of the single ones. This can- not be done with effect in every case ; but whenever an old flower, with a pericarpium or eye, gather a single or semi-double flower, and apply the farina to the eye of the double flower. ‘¢ The seedlings will bear a striking resemblance to the mother plant, as, to colour and habit of growth. The seed may be sown at all seasons, from the Ist of August to the 1st of March, the middle or latter end of October, and the beginning of January. Sow in boxes eighteen inches by eleven inches, and four inches deep, full of loamy earth, and the surface level. Sow the seeds about an eighth of an inch apart ; cover them as thinly as possible, and water with a fine rose; but place the boxes under glass, without heat. The plants usually make their appearance in about a month. Give air day and night, except in severe frost ; then cover up with straw mats. With such pro- tection, the young plants will endure the severest seasons. Clean the surface of the boxes from green moss in Feb- ruary, and top dress them. Put the boxes in the open ground up to. the second week in May, and water daily until the grass begins to wither; then suffer the boxes to become quite dry ; and in the middle of July, take them up, and preserve the roots in bags until February, and then plant them as the general stock. In the following June they flower in great profusion.?*— Gard. Mag. - By Offsets.—< Unlike the offsets of the hyacinth and tulip, those of the ranunculus generally attain perfection in the season of their formation on the RAN 494 RAN a parent plant, and are, therefore, fit to be planted as full grown tubers the same season in which they are removed. Smaller ones, which are unfit to bloom the following year, may be planted in a bed prepared, as to be directed for the full sized roots.” By Dividing the Tubers.—In minutely examining the crown of a ranunculus root, several small protuberances will be found, from each of which a shoot will arise, and the root may, therefore, be divided by a sharp knife into as many parts as there are protuberances ; and thus the danger of losing any rare variety is much diminished. These sections will not bloom till the second year.”—Hort. Trans. Soil—Mr. Hovy of Boston, one of the best of the American horticulturists, is quite right in recommending, as “ the best soil for the ranunculus, a strong rich mellow loam; but good garden loam, enriched with very old cow ma- nure, or leaf-mould, will answer—fresh mould, however, will insure a much -better bloom.?? _ .** A somewhat moist and cool situa- tion,’? says Dr. Horner, one of the best of amateur floriculturists, ‘* is the most suitable. The bed, therefore, should be so situated that it receive but a few hours of the morning sun, and be in the lowest part of the garden. It must not be raised higher than the surrounding walks; should be two feet in depth of soil, and have board instead of box edging, that slugs, &c., which often eat the tender foliage and opening flower- buds of some varieties, may not be sheltered. The only suitable soil is a retentive loam, from the surface of a rich old pasture, the sods included ; to which should be added, and well in- corporated, one third of thoroughly- decayed cow manure. Fresh manure must be avoided, as the roots will not bloom where it exists, but many will perish. All hot and stimulating com- posts are equally pernicious. With the enriched soil just recommended, the bed should be made at the beginning of October, and finished off, and, on no account, disturbed till planting time ; for it is all important that the soil be compact and close in which the roots are planted. <‘ The practice of putting some inches of manure at the bottom of the bed is not to be commended ; the roots either will not reach it at all, or if they do, their sudden transition ‘into deep com- post is at least unnatural: it is more consonant with reason that the food should be generally and equally dis- tributed.**—Gard. Chron. Planting.—‘* The bed being about four feet in width,?? adds Dr. Horner, ‘©and any suitable length, and having been neatly smoothed over, the roots should be planted about five inches distant from each other in rows, which, again, should be about six inches apart. If planted closer, as is commonly the case, the plants will grow comparatively weak, and bloom more sparingly. ee The situation of the rows having been marked out, holes, one and a half inch deep, should be dibbled with the finger, or other instrument, in which the roots should be compactly set, and covered over with soil, after the manner of dibbling beans, by this means the surrounding soil is not disturbed, but left close and retentive. : <¢ The next best plan is drawing drills across the beds in rows, setting the roots therein, and then filling them up with the displaced soil; the worst of all plans being the raking the bed evenly over, setting the roots on it, and then covering the whole one and a half inch with loose soil—yet this is commonly practised.°—Ibid. -. Choice of Roots.—Mr. Glenny recom- mends ‘the middle sized, with firm tubers and plump buds, as preferable for planting; and care should be taken to place a little sand under and over each, to guard them against too much moisture.”>—Gard. and Pract. Florist. General Management.—‘ About the beginning of April,?? says Dr. Horner, ‘the young plants will appear above ground, when the loosened soil should be carefully yet firmly compressed with the fingers about the roots. _ ‘During the months of April and May, should a continuance of dry weather prevail, water may be cautious- ly administered at intervals in an even- ing, but only just so much as will pre- vent the soil of the bed from cracking ;. or a little moss, or old spent tanner’s bark, &c., may be neatly placed be- tween the rows, which will retain the moisture in the soil. The injudicious and over abundant application of water is a very common error, and one of the greatest evils. It not unfrequently hap- ‘mote the size of the flower. RAN ws 495 RAP —j—— pens that plants, which have looked well for a time, at length begin to turn yellow in the foliage, and the flower buds dwindle and go off. ; *¢ The dying of the leaves in some in- stances evidently depends on a want of vigour, or partial rot in the root; and, in some few cases, it would appear to be caused by large earthworms, forming their wide tracks amid the roots of the plants, nearly undermining them; but in the great majority of cases, it is pro- duced by injudicious watering. . ‘* During the expansion of the flower buds, and when they are fully blown, a stage and awning should be erected over the bed, asin the case of tulips, that hoe oo hot sun may be excluded; and gentle watering every second or third evening, may be given, which will keep the bed cool and moist, and pro- As much air should be admitted as possible, that the flower-stems be not drawn and weakened.”?—Gard. Chron. Protection during Winter. — This is essential; and the following plan, adopted by Mr. Glenny, is excellent :— © Let the bed be made just the size of a cucumber frame; ‘place one of these on the bed, and if there is danger of heavy rains, or severe weather, put on the sashes. As soon as heavy frost sets in, the whole of the interior of the ' frame must be filled with leaves, and the sashes replaced, and afew boards laid on to keep the leaves from blowing away. In this manner, the whole may remain until April, or until all danger of frost is over, when the leaves, frames, &c., may be entirely removed.7»— Gard. and Prac. Flor. Taking up the Roots.— Upon this point, the same excellent authority di- rects this to be done “a fortnight after the last flowers have faded, when the foliage looks yellowish. It is a very nice operation, and should not be done hastily. The best way is to pare off three inches of the soil into a sieve, if the bed is composed of mixed sorts, and then, by shaking out the earth, the roots will remain. ** When the varieties are named, they must be taken up singly, and put in a box correctly labeled. They must not be placed in the sun, but may be carried to a dry room, where they may remain till the earth is sufficiently dry to shake off easily, when they should be put into paper bags.??--Gard. and Prac. Flor. Late Succession of Blooms.—-To ob- tain this, we have the following ‘direc- tions by Mr. H. Groom, the well known florist :—- «* The beds are prepared in the usual manner, the ground immediately after- wards well watered with lime water; but to destroy the worms, which are otherwise apt to draw the roots from their places; afterwards water with clear cow-dung water, until the foliage makes its appearance. The beds are then kept shaded from nine in the morn- ing till five or six in the evening, till the bloom is over. Fora bloom all the sea- son, commence in February, and plant every fortnight or three weeks; in Sep- tember, plant in a frame, and you will | have a bloom about January or Februa- ry.”’—Hort. Trans. 4 Forcing.—Mr. Bouché of Berlin, a florist, gives these directions :— ** Select tubers which have been kept three or four months, or even a year; over the season of planting, these being more easily excited than those which have been only the usual time out of the soil, plant them in pots about the be- ginning of August; and, by bringing these into the green-house at different periods, a bloom is kept up from Octo- ber to February.°*»—Gard. Mag. RAPE, or COLESEED. Brassica na- pus esculentus. Like mustard and other small salading, it may be sown at any period of the year, when in request, being allowed a separate bed. It is cultivated as Mustard, which see. To obtain. Seed.—Some plants of a |sowing made about the middle of July must be thinned to eighteen inches apart; they will survive the winter, and flower in the May and June of the next year. The seed, which is produced in great abundance, ripens in July and August, and must be cut as it does so, and laid upon cloths to dry, as it is very apt to shed. = Sai RAPE (EDIBLE-ROOTED). This name may be applied toa variety of the rape mentioned by Mr. Dickson, one of the vice-presidents of the Horticultural Society. Its root is white and carrot- shaped, about the size of the middle- finger. It is much more delicate in flavour than the turnip, like which root it is cooked, only that it is not peeled but scraped, its skin being remarkably RAP 496 RAS —e— thin. It has been cultivated for a great length of years on the continent, and for about thirty years in this country ; but only by one person, as far as Mr. Dickson is aware. Time of Sowing. Itis propagated by seed, which, for the main crop, may be sown from the middle of July to the end of August, or even later. These will supply the table until April; and if wanted throughout the year, a little may be sown in the latter end of Octo- ber, the plants from which will be fit for use, if they succeed during April and May: the last crop to be inserted from the middle of January to the mid- dle of February, which will come in at the end of May and during June. On a north border, and if the soil is sandy and moist, it is possible to have them sweet and tender during the whole summer, to effect which the seed must be sown at the close of March and May. Cultivation is the same as turnips. In dry weather the beds must be watered regularly until the plants have got three or four leaves. Soil.—One great advantage attending the cultivation of this vegetable is, that it requires nomanure. Any soil that is poor and light, especially if sandy, is suitable to it. grows much larger, but not so sweet and good. To obtain seed.—Mr. Dickson recom- mends, in February or March, some of the finest roots to be transplanted to two feet asunder; but it would perhaps be a better practice to leave them where grown. The ground isto be hoed re- peatedly, and kept clear of weeds. The seed must be cut as soon as ripe, and treated as directed for turnips, &c. RAPHANUS. Three species. . Har- dy annuals, except R. landra, which is an herbaceous perennial. Seed. Rich mould. See Radish. RAPHIOLEPIS. Four species. Half-hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. RASPAILIA microphylla. Green- house evergreen shrub. Young cuttings. Sandy peat. RASPBERRY. Rubus ideus. Best Varieties.— Red. — Fastolff, or Bee-hive, Franconia, Antwerp, red ; Barnet; Cornish; Double-bearing, and Gennessee. Yellow.— Antwerp, yellow; Cox’s Honey; Old white. In rich manured earth it | The Fastolff (Fig. 142) has been “ re- cently received from England, where it was raised or discovered near the castle of that name. It has produced fruit at Philadelphia the two past sea- sons, and quite equals its transatlantic character, which is higher than that of any of its tribe. The fruitis large, deep red, inclining to purple, well flavoured, and yielded longer than usual. Such was the description written before the fruit of the present year (1846) had matured ; another season’s observation has con- firmed it. The annexed drawing, ac- curately copied from nature, has been supplied by Doctor William D. Brinckleé.- The plants are yet scarce, and conse- quently higher priced than the old va- ~ rieties; but from its adaptation to our climate, it will, it is hoped, be speedily increased, and widely distributed—so valuable an acquisition one could desire to see domesticated in every garden in the land.°—Rural Reg. The Franconia was ‘imported from France some years since; it is hardy, fruitful, and may be safely recommend- ed as in al] respects desirable. This is, perhaps, taking all its merits into ac- count, next in value to the Fastolff.”? —Rur al Reg. Propagation by Seed.—New varieties are easily raised from seed. Wash away the pulp from some of the finest thoroughly ripe fruit, dry the seed, and sow it the same autumn in a dry border, giving it the shelter of a frame through the winter. Trim and plant out the seedlings to remain in the autumn fol- lowing, and they will bear in the suc- ceeding summer. By Suckers.—These spring from the root annually, and grow from three to five feet in height the same year, form- ing plants by autumn or winter for transplanting, to bear fruit the following summer. Planting may he done any time from October till March, the earlier the bet- ter, in open weather. Raise the plants carefully with plenty of fibres; shorten any long straggling root; and cut off any naked woody part of the root of the old stool, observing at the same time, if one or more buds appear near the root, they, being the embryo of future shoots, must be very carefully preserved ; and shorten each sucker at top to about three or more feet long, according to their strength —they are 497° ——-—. Fig. 142.—(p, 496.) | A KSA OM oe : oes oa. oe a age oe eer Ul: la nd, nn 5 . by nu Me Wty linen — = RASPBERRY. oS RAS 498 | RED —_o—— then ready for planting : having previ- ously to this chosen an open spot of good ground and trenched it, put in the plants as soon as possible, in rows a yard and a half apart, and a yard asun- der in the rows. If planted closer the plants, producing numerous suckers in summer, grow so close as to exclude the due influence of sun and air from the fruit, as well as render it trouble- some to gather the produce. If the planting is performed late in the spring, give a good watering, and repeat it oc- -casionally till the plants have struck fresh root. After-Culiture. —Keep them clean from weeds all summer by broad hoe- ing, giving an annual dressing in au- tumn, cutting down the decayed stems that bore the preceding summer. the young succession bearers; clear away all intermediate suckers between those of the main stocks; and then point with a fork the ground between the rows. Previous to the above-mentioned an- nual dressing of raspberries, observe that, as they produce a fresh supply of shoots or suckers every year for bear- ing the next, therefore the annual dress- ing be performed any time from October till March. First proceed to clear out all the decayed stems, being last sum- mer’s bearers, breaking them down close to the bottom; then examine the supply of young shoots for next year’s bearing. In March select three or four of the strongest shoots on each stool, cutting all the others away close to the ground; shorten those left according to their strength, cutting them general- ly a little below the bend, at the top of the shoots, to about three or four feet in length, both to render them more robust, to support themselves more firmly upright in summer, and to pro- mote a stronger supply of laterals for flowering and fruiting. Allow them a little rotten dung or leaf-mould once every other year, applying it in the spring. Make a plantation every four or five years in a fresh spot of ground ; as, after that period of time, the plants, although they may continue shooting with tolerable vigour, yet are apt to be less fruitful, and the fruit smaller, than in younger plantations in fresh ground. — Abercrombie. Autumn Crop.— To obtain of the Antwerp, and other large varieties, Thin | Mr. Mearns recommends, “in May the removal of the young fruit-bearing shoots from the canes, leaving in some cases one or two eyes, in others cutting them clean off. Under either plan they soon show an abundance. of vigorous shoots, frequently three or four from each eye, which produce plenty of blos- soms in the beginning of July, and on these a good crop of fine raspberriés is borne in August.?°—Hort. Trans.. Training.—The earliest and finest are obtained from canes planted beneath a south wall, and trained against it in this form. (Fig. 143.) But in the open ground the best mode of training is round small hoops, thus. (Fig. 144.) The worst form is plaiting the canes together; and training in arches or other compact forms, excluding the light and warmth of the sun, is little better. ‘Fig. 144. Fig. 143. Forcing.—Raspberries may be forced © growing either in pots or in the borders of the house. They may be also plant- ed on the outside of a pit, the bearing canes being introduced withinside and trained to a trellis, whilst the present year’s shoots are left outside. RATABIDA columnaris, and its va- riety. Hardy herbaceous. perennials. Division or seeds. Common soil. — RATTLESNAKE FERN. Botrichium vir ginicum. RA TTLESNAKE ROOT. Polygala senega. RAUWOLFIA. Four species. Stove evergreen shrubs or trees.. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. REAUMURIA. Two species. Half- hardy evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings. Loam, peat, and sand. RED BAY. Laurus carolinensis. REDCEDAR. Juniperus virginiana. RED GUM TREE. ie scctiir Te- sinifera. RED 499 REN ——_4—_—_— RED NIGHTSHADE. | £rica Hali- cacaba. © ' RED SPIDER. See Acarus. ‘REEDS. See Shelter. REEVESIA Thyrsoidea. Green-house evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings, with the leaves. - Light turfy loam, or loam and peat. me REHMANNTIA chinensis. Hardy herbaceous: perennial, but it succeeds best ina cool green-house. Cuttings. Common soil. REICHARDTIA hezapetala. Stove ‘evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich soil and a strong heat. RELHANIA. Five species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loamy soil. ; RENANTHERA. Three species. Stove orchids. Cuttings. Peat mixed with broken potsherds, moss, or wood. RENDLE’S TANK SYSTEM. First suggested, I believe, by Mr. Rendle, nurseryman, of Plymouth. I have given, in the customary monthly calendars, the necessary intimations when the bark- beds will probably require stirring, but those troublesome, uncertain, and dan- gerous operations, dangerous to the plants, are entirely rendered needless by Mr. Rendle’s plan. It has been adopted by some of the best practical gardeners with entire satisfaction. © A tank of iron or wood, twenty feet long, five feet broad, and six inches _ deep, is, constructed in the centre of the house, and surrounded by a walk, ‘except at the end, where the boiler is fixed for heating it. The top of-the tank is covered with large slabs. of slate, cemented together, to prevent the excessive escape of steam. Around this is a frame sufficiently high to re- tain the bark, in which the pots are plunged. The boiler and tank are filled with water, and this cireulates, when the fire.is lighted under the former, by means of two pipes, one from the top of the boiler, and the other returning nearer to its bottom. The expense of piping, and. danger of their freezing, is avoided ; the fire only requires to be kept lighted for two hours at night, and again for the same period in the morning; the water, when once heated, retaining its tem- perature for a long time. Ina small house, the apparatus can be constructed for 5/., and in all, for less than half the cost of hot-water pipes. The saving in tan and labour is also very great; in some places tan is expensive, and where it is cheaper, the trouble and litter incident to its employment, and the dangers of loss from fungi and in- sects, of which it is the peculiarly fertile foster-parent, render it objec- tionable as a source of heat. And whenever the tan has to be renewed, the trouble and destruction of plants is always great. | ‘*In my new propagating house,”? says Mr. Rendle, “ the tank or cistern is placed in the centre, with a walk ‘surrounding it, so as to enable the propagator with greater ease to attend to the plants, &c. ip ‘“¢On the outside of the house is a fire-shed, in which the boiler is fixed. The tank, made of wood, one and a half or two inches thick, which I find the cheapest material, (it also prevents the water cooling so fast as it does either in stone or iron,) may be lined with lead or zinc. Exactly in the cen- tre of the tank is a partition, serving the double purpose of causing the water to circulate, (as well as to support the edges of the slates,) an aperture being left in the partition, of about two inches in breadth, to allow the water a free passage. The flow-pipe enters near the appendage of the tank, at the mouth of which pipé a piece of perforated copper is placed, as also at the return- pipe, to prevent-dirt and sediment from finding its way into the boiler. After everything is properly fixed, the tank is filled with water, which, of course, at the same time fills the boiler..... The tank is about four inches deep. Across it, and resting on its sides, are placed slate stones about an inch and a half thick, cut square at the edges. These are fastened to each other by Roman cement, or Aberthaw lime, to prevent a superfluity of steam from escaping into the house...... Around the edges of the slates a piece of inch board, about nine inches deep, should be placed to enclose the sawdust, sand, moss, or other plunging material.’ In the following sketch, for which, as well as for the next, | am indebted to Mr. Rendle, A is a transverse sec- ‘tion of Rogers’s conical boiler; B is the fireplace; g,the tank: c, the flow- pipe; d, the pipe by which the water returns to the boiler; e, is the hole for the smoke, which, joined to a flue, f, REQ can be made either to ascend the chim- ney at once, or to pass round the house. Fig. 145. The next sketch is a Pinery, fitted up with Mr. Rendle’s tank. Fig. 146. It is described as ‘‘ a very useful and most desirable structure for the growth of the Pine Apple, with a hollow wall, recommended by all garden architects in preference to a solid wall—the heat or cold being not so readily conducted as through a solid mass of masonry.’? Mr. Rendle might have added, that hollow walls are also much drier.— Rendle’s Treatise on the Tank System. See Stove, &c. ’ REQUIENIA obcordata. Stove ever- green shrub. Young cuttings. Peat, loam, and sand. RESEDA. Mignonette. Seventeen species. Chiefly hardy annuals, bien- nials, herbaceous perennials, and a few green-house evergreens. Cuttings or seeds. Light rich soil. See Mignon- ette. RETARDING requires as much skill as forcing, for as the latter requires the application of all that is suitable to the promotion of a plant’s rapid healthy growth, so retarding requires the with- holding from it of those contingencies. Thus to retard growth, the lowest tem- 500 RHA perature, and the least degree of light compatible with healthy growth must be secured; and to this end plants for succession are often placed on the north side of a wall. Sake . Then again, as in the case of rasp- berries and strawberries, plants are often cut down in the spring, compelling them to form fresh foliage and stems, and thus be productive in the autumn instead of the summer. | The vegetation of many bulbs may be prevented by merely keeping them dry, and, indeed, the withholding the usual supply of water, giving it only in diminished quantities, is necessary in all retarding treatment. To secure the entire quiescence of bulbs; and of such plants as will bear so low a tempera- ture, the atmosphere of the ice-house is effectual ; and to this end it should have a few shelves for the support of boxes or flower pots. Banks of earth ranging east and west, and facing the north at a very acute angle, are very useful in retarding the early advance to seed in hot weather, of spinach, let-. tuces, &c. Espaliers ranging similarly, and shaded during the whole of March, and the two following months, will blossom later and more unfailingly than trees more exposed to the sun in spring. Similar exclusion of heat and light re- tards the ripening of picked fruit, and if the air be excluded from them, or its oxygen withdrawn, fruit will remain unripened for weeks. To effect this, put a paste formed of lime, sulphate of iron, and water, at the bottom of a wide-mouthed glass bottle, then a layer of large pebbles to keep the fruit from the paste,—then fill the bottle with peaches, apricots, or plums, gathered a few days before they are ripe, cork the bottle tight, and cover the cork with melted resin. They have been thus kept for a month, and summer apples and pears for three months. They ripen when again exposed to the air. RHAMNUS. Thirty-eight species. Chiefly hardy evergreen, or deciduous shrubs, or trees.. Layers, seeds. Com- mon soil. The few stove and green- house kinds, increase by cuttings; and require a light soil. Re % RHAPIS. Two species. Dwarfish palms. Suckers. Sandy loam. RHAPONTICA. Four species. Hardy herbaceous perennials, except RH E 501 RHO oe ce R. pulchra, which is a biennial. Divi-|cies, and many varieties. Hardy and sion. Common soil. RHEEDIA javanica. Stove ever- green tree. Ripe cuttings. Peat, loam, and sand. RHEMANETA chinensis. Hardy shrub. Cuttingsand layers. Rich light loam. RHEUM. Rhubarb. Fifteen spe- cies. Hardy fusiform-rooted peren- nials. Division or seed. Rich loamy soil. See Rhubarb. RHEXIA. Four species. Hardy herb- aceous perennials. Division. Peat soil. RHINOPETALUM karelini. Hardy tuberous-rooted perennial. Off- sets. Light rich soil. RHIPODENDRON pilicatile, and its variety. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Suckers or leaves slightly planted. Sandy loam and peat. RHODANTHE manglesii.. Green- house annua]. Dr. Lindley recommends that ‘*its seeds should be sown at two seasons: the first about the beginning of September; the second about the end of February. The soil the seeds are sown in should be rather strong, but not rich, for the first sowing, con- sisting of a mixture of sandy loam and leaf-mould. They should be sown in pots and placed in a cold pit or frame, if sown in the autumn, which should be kept close until the plants areup. The young plants should be potted off when small, for if allowed to get large before potting, they never do any good; puta single plant into a small sixty-pot, they must then be returned to the pit or frame, and keptclose until they recover the effects of the shift; afterwards hard- | en by admitting air. "Then when there is danger of frost, remove them to an airy part of the green-house for the winter, taking care. that they are, not over watered; for much depends on the manner in which they are treated during the winter, as too much or too little water will destroy the healthiest plants ina short time. In the spring, February, repot them into a richer but light sandy soil, and place them in a warmer and moister situation, and pinch off all’ the first flowers as they appear. ‘‘ The spring-sown plants may be treated like other half-hardy annuals, only they must have plenty’ of air to keep them from being drawn Op weak- ly.??——Gard. Chron. EEN. Tiecaly-Aes spe- half-hardy evergreen shrubs, except R. rhodora, which is deciduous and hardy. R. ponticum, Common Rhododendron. R. maximum; R. Caucasicum; R. cam- panulatum ; and R. Catawbiensis, are the best hardy species. It is to be re- gretted that such a noble evergreen shrub as R. maximum should be so sel- dom seen in our grounds. Here in the United States, where it is indigenous, it is really less known than in England, where it forms one of the main features of the undergrowth in lawns and plea- sure grounds,—when: will Americans learn to estimate as they deserve, their own natural products! From the above named species have been obtained the following superior Varieties.—R. Russellianum, scarlet ; R. Lowei, pale straw; R. tigrinum, pale rose: R. nobleanum, dark red; R. splendidum, (Cunningham’s,) white ; R.altaclerence, scarlet; R. multimacu- latum, pale rose, spotted; R.arboreum roseum, bright rose; R. Victoria, deep red; R. venustum, pink; R. augustum, pale flesh spotted; R. pulcherrimum, scarlet; R. grandiflorum, (Cunning- ham’s,) pale flesh; R. macranthum, rose; R. Knightii, scarlet; and R. Car- narvonianum, bright rose. Hybrids with Azalea.—R. Adonsonii; . R. Azaleoides; R. azaleoides album; R. fragrans; R. luteum; and R. Gow- erianum. Green-house Species and Varieties.— R. anthopogon, purple; R. arboreum cinnamomeum, reddish purple; R. lap- ponicum, crimson; R. setosum, purple. Characteristics of Excellence. — Mr. Glenny gives the following good crite- ria :—** The flower large, circular, and campanulated, or hollow like a globular cup. The five divisions of the petals should be concealed by means of the lapping over. The petal thick, smooth- edged,-and stiff. The truss, pyramidal or dome-shaped, standing clear of the foliage; the flower compact, touching, but not ’ crowding each other; footstalks stiffand elastic. The colour brilliant, the spots distinct and contrasted, and ~ stand well without fading. The plant should be bushy, the foliage bright, clear, green, Jarge, and. disposed all round the branch, especially round the ‘flower; the statis should be well cover- ed with leaves, and the bloom should be abundant. It should not bloom RHO 502 RHO —_o— until the middle of May, if hardy, for those flowering before the frosts have ceased, have the blooms spoiled.’??— Gard.and Prac. Flor. Propagation.—By Seed.—The same good floricultural authority gives these excellent. directions :—‘* The seed ves- sels must be gathered as soon as ripe, and before they burst; let them lie in a drawer in the stove or green-house, or a sunny window, to burst and give out their seed: sow immediately; and, to sow thin enough, mix it with twenty times its quantity of the smallest sand., Sow in pots with good drainage, and the following compost. One half rich loam, | such as the top spit of an old meadow, sifted through a coarse sieve ; the other | half the best peat or bog earth, such as | is formed of the half-decayed fibres | broken into pieces and rubbed through the same sieve ; by knocking the bottom of the pan or pot on the potting table or bench, the compost will be solid enough without pressing; level it and sow very thinly ; then with a fine sieve, sift a lit- tle of the compost on the seeds very evenly, and only just enough to cover them; over this put a little fine sand not more than one sixteenth of an inch deep. Take a brush about the texture and strength of a clothes brush, dip it in water, turn its hairs upwards, point- ing at the seeds, draw your hand along the hairs towards you, and they will throw off an almost imperceptible show- er of moisture, by means of which the whole surface can be fairly wetted with out disturbing a seed ora grain of the compost. When the seedlings have four good leaves, prick out into other pans of the same kind of compost, three inches apart, carefully raising them without disturbing the surface to hurt - the more backward seedlings, and the pan may be put back to its place, for the seeds will continue coming up for a considerable time. When pricked out, they should be watered, and afterwards regularly. Though in the green-house keep them under hand-glasses for a few days until re-established, after which they may be removed to a cold frame, or put out of doors. Shade from the mid-day sun, weed regularly, and care- fully tend until they have grown to touch each other. They should then be potted in sixties in the same kind of soil. They have now only to be kept from getting dry, which in ‘such small »| grafting. pots requires much care; the best and easiest way is to plunge the pots to the rim in coal ashes, and still have frames over them for the purpose of preserving them from excessive wet, heat, and cold. When they have perfected a second growth, and are resting, shift them into forty-eight sized pots, and treat them as before, and so continue shifting from size to size until they flower.”?>—— Gard. and Prac. Flor. 7 Gard. Chron. Raising Varieties is best done in April from. forced plants, the two in- tended 1o be bred from being brought into bloom at the same time. They should be widely different in colour, or form, or habit, or some peculiarity which may be desirable to combine in’ one. Hybrids may be obtained by im- pregnating the Rhododendron with pol- len from the Azalea. Grafting.—-Mr. Glenny gives these directions :—-** Young plants of the R. Ponticum must -be potted and well es-_ tablished before you want to use them. Cut them down within three inches of the pot, and- adopt the mode of saddle See Grafting. ‘* Let the bark of the stock and scion touch, if possible, all over; but as the stock may be, and often is, the largest, let the bark fit perfectly on one side, and fall short on the other. The plants should be placed after the operation in a garden frame kept from the air for a. day or two, and shaded altogether from the sun. Side- -grafting and inarching are better modes of increase for the Rhododendron than saddle-grafting. In order to insure success, August or Sep- tember is the best time for budding or grafting Rhododendrons in the open _ air. This plant being thin-rinded does best by side-grafting, and buds of it had also better be inserted after the manner of side-grafting, with a portion of the soft wood retained behind the bud.”?— Gard. Chron.—Gard. and Prac. Flor. Grafting may be done at almost any season of the year, and even the Chinese Azalea may be inarched upon them, In summer, if a low stock be employed, it is sufficient to turn over it a hand-glass; but if the grafting be in the spring or autumn, to obtain success a little bot- tom heat is necessary. Other Modes of Pibongations —Lay- ering and inarching may both be suc- cessfully practised with the Rhododen- 7 RHU 503 RHU pee dron, but require no particular direc- tions. Cuttings will also sometimes ‘succeed, and if a branch is desirably removable let it be cut off. The cut- tings should be only half ripe. Plant in a large sized pot, two-thirds full of the compost, cover with a glass, fitting within the rim of the pot: place ina _ frame, with a trifling bottom-heat, or in _@ Common propagating house; or, for want of a better accommodation, in a green-house or cold garden frame. The giass must be wiped clean every morn- ing, and the sand kept moist. Neglect of watering is fatal. When the cuttings are struck they must be treated as seed- lings.—Gard. and Prac. Flor. - Soil for Out-door Kinds.—A light Joam, manured annually with a mixture of peat and leaf-mould suits them best. The subsoil should be retentive, for if very dry they will not flourish. Pruning.—They require but little pruning, except to remove superfluous branches, &c., and this is best done in April. Mr. Glenny says that old plants which have become bare at the bottom are easily converted into standards by selecting the largest bare stem, cutting all the rest away, and pruning the head into shape. Ifthe stem begrowing out slopingly, you have only to dig up the plant.and place it upright. - Green-house Culture.—Whilst grow- ing, that is from about the end of April to the middle of June, keep them in a temperature of which the extreme at night and in the day are 45° and 600. Supply them liberally with water during that time, and then remove them toa cool situation out of doors, otherwise they will be super-luxuriant and not flower. Forcing .—To obtain early flowers, place some potted plants in a very gen- tle heat the last week in December. RHUBARB. Rheum rhaponticum, R. hybridum, R. undulatum, and R. palina- tum. This last is the medicinal, Turkey Rhubarb of the shops—the es- culent one or pie-plant, as itis familiar- ly termed, has become quite a common inmate of our American gardens; its early growth, affording facility for pies and tarts, long before green fruit can be obtained, and its close resemblance in flavour to the gooseberry, render it al- most indispensable. Varieties—There are several varie- ties, of which the most preferable are the Tobolsk ; Gigantic ; Victoria, (bests) and Bucks or Elford. Soil and Situation.—The soil best suited to these plants is light, rich, deep, unshaded, and moderately moist. A poor heavy or shallow soil never pro- duces them in perfection. Sowing.—It may be propagated by cuttings, but the mode almost univer- sally practised is by seed. Sow soon after it is ripe, in September or October, for if kept out of the ground until the spring, it often continues dormant for twelve months: if the danger of this, however, is risked, sow early in Feb- ruary or March, in drills three feet apart, and an inch deep, the plants to remain where raised ; for although they will bear removing, yet it always checks and somewhat lessens their growth: When they make their appearance’ in the spring, and have been thoroughly cleared of weeds, thin to six or eight inches asunder, and let the surface of the ground about them be loosened with the hoe. At the close of summer, when it can be determined which are the strongest plants, finaily thin to three or four feet, or the Gigantic and Victo- ria to six. In autumn remove the de- cayed leaves, and point in a little well - putrefied stable-dung, and earth up the stools. In the spring hoe the bed, and as the stalks when blanched, are much less harsh in taste, require less sugar to be rendered palatable, and are greatly improved in. appearance, dig a trench between the rows, and the earth from it place about a foot thick over the stool. This covering must be removed when the cutting ceases, and the plants allow- ed to grow at liberty. As the earth in wet seasons is apt to induce decay, the covering may be advantageously formed of coal ashes or drift sand. To obtain Seed.—Those plants pro- duce the seed in greatest perfection that are not gathered from, but on no account must they be subjected to the process of blanching. Two year old plants often produce seed, but in their third yearalways. Itmust be gathered as /soon as ripe, and great care taken that none is scattered over the beds, for the plants thence produced often spring up, and greatly injure the old plants by growing unobserved amongst them. Forcing.—Plant a single row three feet apart in ground that has been trenched two spades deep, and dressed RHAU 504 RIC “ ees with well putrefied dung at the time. The forcing may commence in Decem- ber; first cover either with sea-kale or common garden pots. (twelves), but chimney pots are still better, the leaf- stalks becoming much longer and finer, | and envelope them with fermenting. dung: When well up, the pots are re- moved, except when chimney pots are, used, and large hand-glasses substi- tuted; covering is required every night, and in dull weather with thick mats. By this mode the plants are very liable to be broken, as their leaves soon touch the sides. . A frame is much less objec- tionable, formed by driving: stakes into the ground on each side of the bed, al- ternating with the plants.’ These are to be three feet high above ground, and the space between the two rows of stakes two feet at the bottom, but approach- ing each other, and fastened by cross pieces, so as to be only fifteen inches apart at top. Tothe sides and top stout laths are fixed to prevent the dung fall- ing upon the plants, as represented in the accompanying sketch. Fig. 147. The dung may either be fresh, or that which has previously undergone fermentation, and placed all round the frame eight.or ten inches thick, and the top covered with long litter. The tem- perature in the interior should have a range from 55° to 60°. If it rises higher, two or three large holes made through the top soon corrects it. A frame renders hand-glasses or any other coverunnecessary, requires much less attention, and produces plants of excellent quality. Rhubarb may be forced without either pots or frame, by merely covering the plants six inches deep with light litter, care being taken that the plants are not injured. Mr. Knight’s mode of forcing is to place ‘‘ in the winter as many plants as necessary in large deep pots, each pot receiving as many as it can contain, and the interstices entirely filled up by fine sandy loam, washed in. The tops of the roots are placed on a level with each other, and about an inch below the surface. These being covered with inverted pots of the same size, may. be ‘placed in a vinery or hot-bed, and on the approach of spring, probably any ~ time after January, any room or cellar will be sufficiently warm. If copiously supplied with water, the plants vege- tate rapidly and vigorously, and each pot will produce three successional cuttings, the first two being the most plentiful. As soon as the third is ga- ‘thered, the roots may be changed, and those removed replanted in the ground, when they will attain sufficient strength to be forced again in a year’s time. If not, it is of little consequence, for year- old roots raised from cuttings, or even seed sown in autumn, are sufficiently strong for use.?? | Propagation by Division.—Mr. Ro- gers, a successful cultivator, says, that ‘when the rhubarb is propagated by the root, care must be taken to retain a bud on the crown of each offset, toge- ther with a small: portion of the root itself, with, if possible, some fibres at- tached to it. These offsets may be taken from roots of three or four years old, without injury to the plant. They may be planted where they are intended to remain, at the same distance and in the same manner as advised for the seed- lings.” Taking for Use.—‘* Scrape away a little of the earth, then bend down the stalk you wish to remove, and slip it off from the crown without breaking it, and without usinga knife. The stalks are fit to gather when the leaves are but half expanded, but a larger produce is obtained by letting them remain till full grown.”?—Gard. and Pract. Flor. RHUS. _ Seventy-seven species. Chiefly green-house evergreen shrubs, some hardy deciduous trees, shrubs, and climbers, or creepers. The stove and green-house kinds increase by ripe cuttings, the hardy species by cuttings one layers. Common soil suits them all. : RIBES. Forty-four species and many varieties. Hardy deciduous: shrabs. Cuttings. Common soil. See Currant and Gooseberry. : he RICHARDIA ethiopica. Green- house herbaceous perennial. Offsets. Light rich soil. : RICHIEA fragrans. Stove ever- vibes | be Sal . me RIC 505 —_e—- ai preter; Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. RICINUS. Eight species. Half | hardy annuals and green-house ever- green shrubs. Seeds and cuttings. Rich soil. R. communis produces the ‘ Castor Oil. RICOTIA Jlunaria. Hardy annyal. Seeds. Light sandy soil. RIDGING is digging the soil into AAA parallel ridges in this form—so “*** as to expose it thoroughly to the . action either of the atmosphere or of _ frost. ‘ ' M. Schluber says, ‘‘ that freezing re- duces the consistency of soils most re- markably, and that in the case of clays and other adhesive soils, the diminution of this consistency amounts to at least fifty per cent.” In hoeing clay he found it reduced from sixty-nine to forty-five of the scale already stated, and in the ordinary arable soil from thirty-three to twenty. He satisfactorily explains this phenome- non, by observing that the crystals of ice pervading the entire substance of the frozen soil, necessarily separate the ’ particles of earth, rendering their points of contact fewer. ‘Ridging, however, should not be con- fined to the winter, for in summer the extra exposure to the air and heat is highly promotive of vegetation—it im- pregnates the soil with oxygen, pro- motes the decay of stubborn vegetable remains, and disturbs predatory vermin. Mr. Barnes says, ‘‘ I keep all ground, as soon as a crop is done with, well trenched, burying all the refuse I pos- sibly can in a green state, casting the earth into rough ridges, tumbling those ridges over with a strong fork on frosty mornings in winter and spring, and during hot sunny days in summer, con- tinually changing the crops. _ Keeping the hoe at work at all seasons in suit- able weather, forking up all odd cor- ners and spare ground without loss of time. By this management, I find the ground is always in good condition and never tired by cropping, some judgment only being exercised in applying such properties again to the soil that have been taken from it, or that are likely to be required by the succeeding crop.?? . _ An effectual mode of ridging is thus described : . ‘¢ Let a, b, c, d, represent a section of the ground to be trenched two feet deep. In the first place the ground is measured out in longitudinal beds four feet wide; this done, the top spit of the bed c.is laid on the bed g, and the second spit of the bed c, is laid on A. The first or top spit of the bed f, is then laid on A, so that the top soil and sub- soil are kept on separate and alternate beds, and may be mixed, reversed, or returned as taken out, at the will of the operator. By this method the ad- vantages are—much greater exposure of surface to the action of the weather; the opportunity of incorporating with the soil any desirable or obtainable manures, and at any desired depth; a thorough blending of the soil to the depth of two or three feet; and it also facilitates the operation of draining, where necessary. It is needless to add, that when the first thrown-out beds are sufficiently pulverized, they are levelled down, and others thrown out in the same manner; g, h, 7, represent the ridges thrown out. and left as rough as ossible.?»—Gard. Chron. RIGIDELLA flammea. Stove tuber- ous-rooted perennial. Offsets or seeds. Light rich soil. RINGING isa practice adopted for the purpose of checking the return of the sap, and thereby confining a larger supply to the blossom. . It is removing an entire zone of bark, about an inch wide, around the branch to be ren- dered more fruitful, and taking care that the bark be completely removed down to the very wood. This was designated the ring of Pomona, but it certainly was not auspiciously received by that deity; for although it renders the part of the branch superior to the wound more fruitful for two or three seasons, yet it renders the branch un- sightly by the swelling which occurs around the upper lip of the wound, and is always followed by disease and un- fruitfulness. See Ligature. — RIPOGONUM._ Two species. Green-house evergreen climbers. — Young cuttings. Loam and peat. © RIVEA liliefolia. Stove evergreen twiner. Cuttings. Richioam ana peat. 506. RIV ROC —.— F RIVINA. Seven species. Stove| precincts of .a park or a garden, no ex- evergreen shrubs. Light soil. ROBINIA. Seven species and many varieties. All hardy deciduous trees, except R. guineensis and R. purpurea, which are stove evergreens. Increased by young cuttings. Loam, sand, and peat. The hardy kinds are increased by layers or grafts, and require only common soil. ROCAMBOLE. ~Allium — Scorodo- prasum. Sometimes called Spanish Garlic, has its bulbs or cloves growing in a cluster. The stem bears many bulbs at its summit, which as well as those of the root are often preferred in cooking to garlic, being of much milder flavour. Time of Insertion.—It is best propa- gated by the root bulbs, those of the stem being slower in production. The plantation may be made either in Feb- ruary, March, or early part of April, as well as throughout the autumn, in drills or by the dibble, in rows six inches apart. each way, and usually two inches within the ground ; though the plants would thrive better if grown on the surface as recommended for the shalot. In other respects they are cultivated as directed for Garlic. A very small bed is sufficient for the sup- ply of the largest family. ROCHEA. Three species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Partly dried cuttings. Sandy loam, peat, and brick rubbish. ROCKET. oe ROCK ROSE. Cistus and Convolvu- lus Dorycnium. ROCK-WORK. ‘* Mere rocks, un- less they are peculiarly adapted to cer- tain impressions, may surprise, but can hardly please; they are too far removed from common life, too barren and inhospitable, rather desolate than solitary, and more horrid: than terrible. So austere a character cannot -be long engaging if its rigour be not softened by circumstances, which may belong either to these or to more cultivated spots; and when the dreariness is ex- treme, little streams and waterfalls are of themselves insufficient for the pur- pose: an intermixture of vegetation is also necessary, and, on some occa- sions, even marks of inhabitants are proper. ‘If such a scene occurs within the Seeds or cuttings. the soil, ‘contribute. ‘increased by covering this pense should be spared to meliorate wherever any soil can be found. © Without some vegetation among the rocks, they are only an object of curiosity or’a subject of won- der; but verdure alone will give some relief to the dreariness of the scene, and shrubs or bushes, without trees, are a sufficiency of wood. The thickets may also be extended by the creeping plants—such as pyracantha, vines, and ivy—to wind up the sides, or cluster on the tops of the rocks; and to this vege- tation may be added some symptoms of © inhabitants, but they must be slight and few: the use of them is only to cheer, not to destroy the solitude of the place; and such therefore should be chosen as are. sometimes found in situations re- tired from public resort. A cottage may be lonely, but it must not: here seem ruinous and neglected; it should _ be tight and warm, with every mark of comfort about it, to which its position in some sheltered recess may greatly A cavity also in the rocks rendered easy of access, improved to a degree of convenience, and maintained in a certain state of preservation, will suggest similar ideas of protection from the bitterest inclemencies of the sky, and even of occasional refreshment and repose. But we may venture still fur- ther. A mill is of necessity often built at some distance from the town it sup- plies ; and here it would at the same time apply the water to a use, and in- crease its agitation. The dale may, besides, be made the haunt of those animals— such as goats— which are sometimes wild and sometimes domes- tic, and which, accidentally appearing, will divert the mind from the sensa- tions natural to the scene, but not agreeable if continued longer without interruption. ‘¢ These, and such other expedients, will. approximate the severest retreat to the habitations of men, and convert the appearance of a perpetual banish- ment into that of a temporary retire- ment from society. : ‘< When rocks retire from the eye down a gradual declivity, we can, by raising the upper ground, deepen the fall, lengthen the perspective, and give both height and extent to those at a distance. This effect may be still upper ROC 507 ROC ground with a thicket, which’ shall cease, or be lowered, as it descends. A thicket, on other occasions, makes the rocks which rise out of it seem larger than they are. If they stand upon a bank overspread with shrubs, their beginning: is at the least uncer- tain, and the presumption is that they start from the bottom. - *¢ Another use of this brushy under- wood is, to conceal the fragments and rubbish which. have fallen from the sides and the brow, and which are _ often unsightly. ‘¢ Rocks are seldom remarkable for the elegance of their forms; they are too vast and too rude to pretend to delicacy; but their shapes are often agreeable, and we can affect those shapes to a certain degree—at least we can cover many blemishesiin them by conducting the growth of shrubby and creeping plants about them. For all these purposes mere underwood suffices ; but for greater effects larger trees are requisite. They are worthy of the scene, and not only improve- ments but accessions to its grandeur. We are used to rank ‘them among the noblest objects of nature; and when we see that they cannot aspire to the midway of the heights round them, the rocks are raised by the comparison. A single tree is, therefore, often prefera- ble to a clump; the size, though really less, is more remarkable; and clumps are, besides, generally exceptionable, in a very wild spot, from the suspicion of art which attends them. But a wood is free from that suspicion ; and its own character of greatness recommends mS to every scene of magnificence. ‘¢ On the same principle, all the con- sideration which can be should be given. to the streams. No number of little rills are equal to one broad river; and, in the principal current, some varieties may be sacrificed to importance. But a degree of strength should always be preserved. The water, though it needs not be furious, must not be dull; for dignity, when most serene, is not Jan- guid; and space will hardly atone for want of animation. ‘< Inhabitants furnish frequent oppor- tunities to strengthen the appearances of force by giving intimations of danger. A house placed at the edge of a preci- pice—any building on the pinnacle of a crag—makes that situation seem form- idable, which might otherwise have been unnoticed. A steep, in itself not very remarkable, becomes alarming when a path is carried aslant up the side. A rail, on the brow ofa perpen- dicular fall, ‘shows that the height is frequented and dangerous; and a com- mon foot-bridge, thrown over~a cleft between rocks, has a, still stronger effect. In all these instances the im- agination immediately transports the spectator to the spot, and suggests the idea of looking down such a depth ; in the last that depth is a chasm, and the situation is directly over it. ‘¢If the body of the rock is intended to be raised much above the ground level], a quantity of soil and rubbish should be carried into the centre of the space. This soil, besides serving to support the rockwork, will also form a border for the plants to grow in. Hav- ing at hand plenty of large rough stones, broken bricks, or stony rubbish of any kind or colour, proceed with these to imitate the form of natural rock as nearly as possible. Rough, bold, an- gular projections, and deeply-formed chasms, are the principal features in natural scenery which please us most. A rock, with a flat unbroken surface, whether horizontal or perpendicular, presents too much sameness to be pleas- ing to the eye: therefore, in imitating nature, the projections should be varied and bold, and unless raggedness and intricacy form principal features in its composition, it will lose much of its effect. If the rock-work be on a large scale, it should not be one continued line, but broken at intervals, in one part lost “beneath the surface of the earth, and again rising in another part and resuming its sinuous form. 6 So far there is little difference be- tween this and the common method of making artificial rock. When, how- ever, every stone has been arranged to suit the eye, the interstices between them are to be filled up with any kind of rough mortar. -Of course fissures, and similar places intended for the plants which are to cover the rock, must be left open, so that the roots may penetrate to the soil beneath the stones. The next operation is to daub the whole mass over with Roman cement. For this purpose the latter should be mixed ‘with water until it is of the consistence of thick paint, in which state it may be ROC 508 ROO — = applied to the stones with a large painter’s brush. The spaces between the stones having been filled with rough mortar prevents the cement from being wasted. The thickness of the latter on the stones need not be more than the eighth of an inch: it will unite the whole into one mass; and rock-work, thus constructed, is beyond al] compa- rison far more natural than that made in the usual way. It has none of that disjointed appearance which usually ac- companies rock-work made without cement. After a few months’ exposure to the weather, rock-work thus formed (if skillfully made) cannot without care- ful examination be distinguished from a natural mass; it will soon cover all but the most prominent parts. If the ce- ment be of a colour too light, which, for some situations, may be the case, a little lamp-black, or soot, may be mixed -with it. Care must, however, be taken that no substance which may make the cement more porous is used, otherwise it will peel from the stones after a hard frost. For the benefit of those who are not accustomed to using cement, J may mention that no more should be moistened at once than can be used in a short time. Ifthe cement be good it will quickly harden, and will then be in a manner useless. ‘In preserving cavities in the rock for plants, care should be taken that no places are left in which the water may lodge, or, in frosty weather, the ice, by expansion, would split and peel off the thin crust of cement, or lowest part of them, communicating with the soil be- neath the stones, so that the water may drain off. ‘© In making artificial rock for water- falls, or other constructions, where the cement may be constantly exposed to the action of water, the best water-ce- ment should be used. Any preparation that doés not quickly indurate under water, will, in a short time, be washed away, and leave nothing but the bare stones.’°— Whateley. Plants suited for Rock-work are:— Rhododendron ferrugineum; R. hirsu- tum; Arctostaphylos Uva ursi; Cha- meledron Braeiinheney Sedum rupes- tre; S. Forsterianum; S. populifolium ; Bai villosum ; S. eae Arbutus phillyrezefolia ; A. pilosa ; Mahonia aqui- foliam; Ramondia pyrenaica; Soldanella alpina; Androsace villosa; Crydalis nobilis; Phlox ovata; P. subulata; P. nivalis; Vinca minor, florepleno; Cam- panula pumiia; Gentiana verna; Dryas octopetala; Digitalis lutea; Sibthorpia europea ; Arabis alpina; Draba azoides; Premanthes purpurea; P. Muralis ; Antennaria plantaginea; Gnaphalium arenanum; Polypodium vulgare cam- bricum ; P. dryopteris; Onoclea sensi- bilis; Asplenium adiantum nigrum ; Pteris caudata; Adiantum Capillus veneris; Aspidium rigidum; A. Lon- chitis. RODRIGUEZIA.. Six species. Stove orchids. Division. Peat and wood. ROELLIA. Six species. - Chiefly green-house evergreen shrubs. R. de- currens, a halfhardy annual; R. mu- cosa, an herbaceous perennial. Seed, or young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. R. ciliata is a Cape plant, and re- quires a green-house in this country. It should be potted in light rich soil, such as a mixture of peat, leaf-mould, sand, and Joam. Keep it rather dry when itis not growing, but give it plenty of water at other times. RGPERA. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings or seeds. Loam, peat, and sand. R. aurantiaca will flower in an open border. ROLANDRA argentea. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and eat. ROLLER. This is best made of cast- iron, and may be had of four different sizes, viz. with a diameter of sixteen, eighteen, twenty-two, or twenty-four inches. The roller and .water-engine, where either the lawns or roads are extensive, may be combined advan- tageously. RONDELETIA. ‘Eleven species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand.. ROOTS are either annual, biennial, or perennial, but in all roots, ‘and under any mode of management, the fibrous parts (radicule) are strictly annual ; they decay as winter approaches, and are. produced with the returning vigour of their parent in the spring. Hence the reason that plants are transplanted with most success during the season of their decay: for, as the root almost exclu- sively imbibes nourishment by the mouths of these fibres, in proportion as they are injured by the removal, so is ROO 509 ROO —@e—— the plant deprived of the means of sup- port; that sap which is employed in the formation of new fibres, would have served to increase the size of other parts. The quantity of root I have always observed to increase with the poverty of the soil in which it is growing. A root always proceeds to that direction where food is most abundant; and from a knowledge of this fact, we should be circumspect in our mode of applying manures, according to the crop and ob- ~ ject we have in view. The soil in my own garden being shallow, never pro- duced a carrot or a parsnip of any size ; but almost every root consisted of nu- merous forks thickly coated with fibres ; digging two spades deep produced no material advantage, the gardener ap- plying as usual manure to the surface ; but by trenching as before, and turning in a small quantity of manure at the bottom, the roots always spindled well, grew clean, and had few lateral fibres. For late crops of peas, which mildew, chiefly from a deficiency of moisture to the root, it is an object to keep their radicule near the surface, for the sake of the light depositions of moisture in- cident to their season of growth ; hence it will always be found of benefit to cover the earth over the rows, with a little well-rotted dung, and to point ait in lightly. If it be desirable to prevent the roots of any plant travelling in a certain di- rection, the soil on that side should be excavated,and the cavity refilled with sand, or some other unfertile earth, whilst the soil on those sides of the plant whither the roots are desired to tend, should be made as fertile as is permissible with its habits. It may be accepted as a universal maxim, that whatever causes an exces- sive development of root, prevents the production of seed ; and vice versa, the productiod of seed, especially in tuber- ous-rooted plants, reduces the amount of root developed. Thus, frequent transplanting the young plants of the lettuce, brocoli, and cauliflower, causes the production of numerous fibrous roots, and is found effective in prevent- ing the mature plants advancing easly: to seed. The early varieties of the potato do not naturally produce seed ; but if their tubers are removed as soon as they are formed, these early varieties blossom and bear seed’ as freely as the latter kinds, a fact suggesting many experi- ments in the cultivation of shy-blooming tuberous-rooted flowers. Again, if the blossoms of these later varieties are plucked off as they appear, the weight of tubers produced will be very mate- rially increased. According to the usual acceptation of the term, the roots of plants do not emit excrements, yet it is quite certain that, in common with all the other parts of a plant, they perspire matters differ- ing in their amount and composition in every species. The earth in contact with the tubers of a potato fully ripe contains mucilage, and has the peculiar odour of the root; that in contact with the roots of peas is also mucilaginous, and smells very strongly of that vegeta- ble; and the freshly upturned soil where cabbages have been growing, always smells offensively. MM. Sennebier and Caradori found that if roots of the carrot, scorzonera, and radish, are placed in water, some with only their extremities immersed, and others with their entire surfaces plunged in except the extremities, the former imbibe the water rapidly, and the plants continue vegetating, but the others imbibe no perceptible quantity, and speedily wither. It suggests also the reason why the gardener in apply- ing water or manure to trees or shrubs, does so at a distance from their stems. A good rule, for ascertaining the proper distance for such applications, seems to be to make them beneath the circumference of the head of the tree ; for, as M. De Candolle observed, there is usually a relation between that and the length of the roots, so that the rain falling upon the foliage is poured off most abundantly at the distance most desirable for reaching the extremities of the roots. This explains why the fibrous points of roots are usually annually renewed, and the caudex (or main limb of the- root) extended in length; by these means they each year shoot forth into a fresh soil, always changing their di- rection to where most food is to be ob- tained. If the extremity ofa root is cut off, it ceases to increase in length, but enlarges its cirele of extension by late- ral shoots. The roots of plants, unless frozen, ROO 510 ROO re are constantly imbibing nourishment, and even developing parts; for if the roots of trees planted during the winter be examined after an interval of a few weeks, they will be found to have emit- ted fresh radicles. The food they imbibe is slowly ele borated in the vessels of the stem and branches, and there deposited. In ge- neral, roots have no buds, and are, / therefore, incapable of multiplying the plant to which they belong. But it constantly happens in some species, that they have the power of forming what are called adventitious buds; and in such cases, they may be employed for purposes of propagation. There is no rule by which the power of a plant to generate such buds by its roots can be judged of: experiment is therefore necessary, in all cases, to determine the point. When there is a difficulty in procuring a suitable stock, pieces of the roots of the plant to be multiplied are often taken as a substi- tute, and they answer the purpese per- fectly well; for the circumstance which hinders the growth of pieces of a root into young branches, is merely their want of buds. If a scion is grafted upon a root, that deficiency is supplied, and the difference between the internal organization of a root and a branch is so trifling as to oppose no obstacle to the solid union of the two. ROOT-PRUNING has been thus con- sidered by Dr. Lindley, in his excellent Theory of Horticulture :— «In the nurseries, it is a universal practice to prune the roots of trans- planted trees: in gardens, this is as seldom performed—which is right. If a wounded or bruised root is allowed to remain upon a transplanted tree, it is apt to decay, and this disease may spread to neighbouring parts, which would otherwise be healthy: to remove the wounded parts of roots is, therefore, desirable. But the case is different with healthy roots. We must remember that every healthy and unmutilated root which is removed, is a loss of nutriment to the plant, and that, too, at a time when it is least able to spare it; and there cannot be any advantage in the removal. The nursery practice is pro- bably intended to render the operation of transplanting Jarge numbers of plants less troublesome: and, as it is chiefly applied to seedlings and young plants with a superabundance of roots, the loss, in their case, is not so much felt. If performed at all,it should take place in the autumn; for, at that time, the root, like the other parts of a plant, are comparatively empty of fluid; but if deferred til! the spring, then the roots are all distended with fluid, which has been collecting in them during winter ; and every part taken away carries with it a portion of that nurture which the plant had been laying up as the store upon which to commence its renewed | growth. ‘It must now be obvious that, al- though root-pruning may be prejudicial in transplanting trees, it may be of the greatest service to such established trees as are too prone to produce branches and Jeaves, instead of flowers and fruit. In these cases, the excessive vigour is at once stopped, by removal of some of the stronger roots; and con- sequently, of a part of the superfluous food to which their ‘rankness’ is owing. ‘¢ The operation has been success- fully performed on the wall trees at Oulton, by Mr. Errington, one of our best English gardeners, and by many others, and, I believe, has never proved an objectionable practice under judi- cious management. Its effect is, pro tanto, to eut off the supply of food, and thus to arrest the rapid growth of the branches. << Under all ordinary circumstances, the roots must necessarily be injured more or less by removal: in that case, all the larger wounds should be cut to a clean smooth face, and not in long ragged slivers, as is often the case, and which is only substituting one kind of mutilation for another; but at an angle of about 45°, or less. “If the ends of small roots are bruised, they generally die back a little way, and then emit fresh spongioles; but the larger roots, when bruised, lose the vitality of their broken extremity ; their ragged tissue remains open to the uncontrolled introduction of water ; de- cays in consequence of being in con- tact with an excess.of this fluid; and often becomes the seat of disease which spreads to parts that would be healthy. ‘s When, however, the wound is made clean by a skilful pruner, the vessels all contract, and prevent the introduction of an excess of water into the interior; the wound heals by granu- = ROP 511 ROS keg lations formed by the living tissue; and the readiness with which this takes place is in proportion to the smallness of the wound. It may be sometimes advantageous to remove large parts of the coarser roots of a tree, even if they are not accidentally wounded when taken up, the object being to compel the plant to throw out, in room of those comparatively inactive subter- ranean timbs, a. supply of young active fibres.. ' «This is a common practice in he nurseries in transplanting young oaks and other tap-rooted trees, and is one of the means employed by the Lan- cashire growers of gooseberries, in‘ or- der to increase the vigour of their branches; in the last case, however, the operation is not confined to the time when transplantation takes place, but is practised annually upon digging the gooseberry borders. The reason why cutting off portions of the princi- pal roots causes a production of fibres appears to be this; the roots are pro- duced by organizable matter sent down- wards from the stem; that matter, if uninterrupted, will flow along the main branches of the roots, until it reaches the extremities, adding largely to the wood and. horizontal growth of the root, but increasing in a very slight de- gree the absorbent powers: ‘but if a large limb of the roots is amputated, the powers of the stem remaining the same, all that descending organizable matter which would have been ex- pended in adding to the thickness of the amputated part, is arrested at the ‘time of amputation; and, unable to pass further on, rapidly produces granu- Jations to heal’ the wound, and imme- diately afterward young spongioles, which soon establish themselves in the surrounding soil, and become the points of new active fibres.°—Theory of Hort. ROPALA. Three species. Green- house evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam and peat. ROSE. Rosa. Seventy-eight spe- cies, and an almost innumerable num- ber of varieties, principally hardy de- ciduous or evergreen shrubs. To attempt an enumeration, much less a description of all the varieties which they profess to cultivate in Europe, would be an unnecessary waste of space, for the simple reason that many of them are unworthy of preservation, and others vary so slightly that a prac- ticed eye is scarcely able to detect the difference. The Queen of Flowers had at no previous day attained the cele- brity and popular favour it now enjoys, and never was it so well worthy that popularity. Ever charming, it is now doubly so from exhibiting its beauty almost without intermission, whilst very many of them yield powerful and de- licious perfume. Those who may be resident in remote positions, and whose idea of the rose, pleasing as it may be, is the recollection of it, as it was in by- gone years, are far behind the age— nothing, whether it be artificial, or the product of nature assisted by art, has kept more steady pace with the im- provements of our day. The following select varieties in each of the divisions into which by common consent this flower has been divided, are abstracted from the catalogue of the old Landreth nursery, and. though they are now certainly among those most to be desired, who can tell how soon many of them may be superseded by more attractive varieties? Whilst speaking of varieties it may not be out of place to remark that great disap- pointment has been endured by im- porters of roses from. Europe, induced - to order by the enticing descriptions in English and continental works: a large majority, it is believed, have fallen short of their transatlantic character, and American florists have not al ways escap- ed censure for distributing varieties of little worth, when their only fault was reliance on the fidelity of European descriptions. ROSA INDICA. Bengal, or Daily Rose. Animated, rosy blush. Arsenie, light rose. Augustine Hersent, superb rose. Assuerus, crimson. Admiral Duperre, dark rose. Belle Isidore, crimson. «¢ de Monza, dark rose. <¢ Violet, violet purple. Bisson, rosy blush. Burette, dark red. Cameleon, rose. Cramoisi supérieur, crimson. Cels, blush. Comble de Gloire, crimson. Don Carlos, dark rose. ROS 512 ROS . Duchess of Kent, pink. Eugene Beauharnais, crimson. Fabvier, scarlet. Grandral, crimson. Grandida, rose. Hortensia, light rose. Indica Alba, pure white. Jacksonia, bright red. Louis Philippe, crimson. Lady Warrender, white. Lawrencia, pink. Marjolin, crimson. Mrs. Bosanquet, large blush. Napoleon, rose fine. Reine de Lombardie, cherry red. Samson, light rose. Triomphant, crimson. Vanilla, dark rose. ROSA INDICA ODORATA.~ ’ Tea scented Roses. Archduchess Theresa, white. Aurora, blush. _ Alba, pure white. Arkinto, flush colour. Adelaide, blush. Antherose, blush white. Adam, rosy blush. Belle Marguerite, rosy purple: Bougeére, light rose. Boutrand, rosy blush. Bon Siléne, superb red. Bourbon, white. Barbot, blush. Camellia, white. Caroline, bright rose. Countess Albemarle, straw colour. Duc d’Orleans, bright rose. Devoniensis, creamy yellow. Devaux, blush. Delphine Gaudot, white. D’Arrance de Navarre, light pink. Eliza Sauvage, pale sulphur. _ Flon, buff. Flavescens, yellow. Golcondi, blush white. Goubault, rosy blush. Gigantesque de Lima, light yellow. Gloria de Hardi, light rose. Hyménée, white. Jaune Panaché, straw colour. La Sylphide, rosy buff. Lilicina, lilac. Lyonnais, rose. La Pactole, yellow. La Renomme, white. Madam Desprez, white. Mansais, rosy buff. x Niphetos, white. Odoratissima, rich blush. Princesse Maria, blush. _ : ig d’Esterhazy, light rose. Strombio, white. Triomphe de blush. Victoria Modeste, blush. ~ William Wallace, pale blush. Luzemboteg,™ rosy ROSA BOURBONIANA. - Bourbon Roses. Augustine Lelieur, bright rose. Acidalie, white, large and fine. Comte de Rambuteau, violet popes Ceres, dark rose. Cytherea, rosy pink, very fragrant. ie Comte d’Eu, bright carmine. Doctor Rocques, purple crimson. Dumont de Courset, deep purple. Du Petit Thouars. Emilie Courtier, rosy red. Gloire de Rosamene, brilliant crimson. ‘ ~ de Paris, bright red. Grand Capitaine, brilliant scarlet. Gloire de France, rose, very fragrant. Hermosa, light pink. Henri Plantier, pale rose. Imperatrice Josephine, creamy white. Lady Canning, deep rose. Madam Desprez, rosy lilac. _ a Souchet, blush, fine. ‘bi Lacharme, blush white. » * Nerard, light rose. ce ce _ Maréchal de Villars, rosy purple, fine. Ninon de |’Enclos, dark rose. Paul Joseph, velvet crimson. . Princesse Clementine, deep rosy pur- le. uous, rose/ged. ..~ Pierre de St. Cyr, light rose. Queen, delicate blush. © Reine de Fontenay, brilliant rose. Souchet, deep crimson. Souvenir de la Malmaison, creamy white, fine. Théresita, bright carmine. REMONTANT, OR HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES. Notr.—In Europe these roses are highly esteemed; here their reputation as “‘ per- petuals” has been seriously injured, in consequence of their having been in many instances, worked on “stocks un- suited either to this rie or to our cli- mate. Antinous, dark crimson. Aubernon, clear red, very fine. Augustine ve clear bright rose. Baronne Provost, fine rose colour. ROS BNA. « ROS —_@——- ‘ Comte de Paris, dark crimson. Claire du Chatelet, purple red. Clementine Syringe, pale rose. Comtesse Duchatel. Crimson or Rose du Roi, light crimson. D’ Angers, delicate rose. Doctor Marjolin. Duc de Aumale. Duchesse de Nemours, pale rose. s¢ de Sutherland, bright rose. Edouard Jesse, dark purple crimson. Isaure, bright pink. Israel, sable. . Insigne D’Estotells. Josephine Antoinette, rosy blush. Louis Bonaparte. ‘Lady Fordwich, deep rose. ‘¢ Alice Peel, rosy carmine. La Reine, or Queen, rose colour, superb. Madame Laffay, brilliant rose. Marquise Bocella. Mrs. Elliott, rosy red. Melanie Cornu, deep crimson. Newton. Palmyre, blush. Princesse Héléne, large deep rose. Prince Albert, very’ dark crimson, fine. Prudence Reser, rosy pink. Prince de Salm, dark crimson. ‘¢ of Wales, rose carmine. ‘Reine de la Guillotiére, brilliant crimson. — Desquermus or Royal, large rose. Stanwell, blush very fine. Sisley, large bright red. NOISETTE. OR CLUSTER FLOWERING ROSES. Those marked * are dwarfs. *Alba, creamy white. - *Aimée Vibert, pure white. Bengal Lee, blush, fragrant. Cadot, blush lilac. Charles Tenth, purple. Conque de Venus, white rose centre. Ceur Jaune, white yellow centre. Champneyana, rosy white. *Countesse de Grillion, blush. Chromotelle, large yellow fine. , *Euphrosine, pale yellow. Fellenberg, crimson, superb. *Gabriel, blush, fine. Jaune Desprez, rosy yellow. * Julienne le Sourd, rose. Julie de Loynes, white. Lamarque, creamy white, fine. La Biche, flesh colour. Lady Byron, pink, fine. 33 ~ Lutea or Smithii, fine yellow. Landreth’s Carmine, carmine, *La Nymphe, pale rose. Miss Simpson, blush. Orloff, pink, fine. *Ophire, yellow, fragrant. Sir Walter Scott, deep rose. Solfatare, superb dark yellow, Vitellina, white. CLIMBING ROSES. These flower annually in immense clusters, grow rapidly, and are quite hardy. Banksia lutea, double yellow. ss alba, white. Boursault, rose colour: “< purpurea, purple. c¢ blush, large blush. 6é gracilis, bright rose. Bengalensis scandens, large rosy white. Felicité perpetuelle, blush white. Grevillia. Greville produces immense clusters, of various colours anG shades, from white to crimson. Multiflora, pink. ae alba, blush white. Rubifolia, single Michigan or prairie. =: elegans, double pink. cs purpurea, double purple. ae Queen, double pink. & alba, double blush white. Russelliana, crimson cottage rose. Sempervirens plena, superb white. Triomphe de Bollwyler, blush white. Laura Davoust, white. / MICROPHYLLA ROSES. Maria Leonida, white, extra fine. Microphylla rosea, rose colour. “ odorata alba, creamy white. MUSK-SCENTED ROSES. Moschata, white semi-double. os superba, pure white, very double. Princesse de Nassau, white double. HARDY GARDEN ROSES. _ Miaulis, rosy purple. Coronation, purple crimson. Reine des Roses, bright crimson. ‘Duc d?Orleans, dark rose. Painted damask, white. Brennes, dark pink. Rivers’? Geo. IV., superb crimson. Hybride blanche, white. . | 4 4 ROS 514 ROS ——— 5 Heureuse surprise, carmine. Ranunculus, purple, compact. La capricieuse, purple crimson. Royal Provins, superb pink. Du Roi, perpetual, bright red. Harrisonii, yellow Austrian briar. Moss single, crimson, very mossy. s¢ common, rose. ~ ¢s Luxembourg, crimson. “«¢ ~white, perpetual. ‘6 crested. ‘¢ Adelaide. York and Lancaster, red and white. Provins Belgic, large pink. Four Seasons, pink. Moretti, light rose. Burgundy, rose, compact. Persian, this is the finest yellow rose now in cultivation. Characteristics of Excellence.—Petals . thick, broad, and smooth edged; highly perfumed ; outline of flower, circular ; outer petals, curving slightly inwards, and imbricated in distinct rows; colour, distinct and permanent; flowers, uni- form in size, well above the foliage, and on foot-stalks stiff but. elastic; foliage, bright green; habit of the plant, shrubby. Propagation.—We give the direc- tions for propagation by budding, graft- ing, cuttings, &c., and. the general management of this plant, just as it appears in the English edition of this work. The American florist has greatly simplified much therein described— still it is well to exhibit what is done by others. : By Seed.—Mr. Paul, the eminent florist, recommends the following,— ‘¢ which,”? he says, ‘‘seed freely, and appear well suited for female parents. First among the hybrid Chinese are, Athelin and Celine; Ne plus Ultra; Duke of Devonshire ; Chatelain; Prin- cess Augusta; Henri Barbet; Globe, White Hip; General Allard, Aurora, and others. These might be crossed with some of the freest blooming da- mask, perpetual, or Bourbon roses, to endeavour to obtain an increase of, and an improvement among, the hardy au- tumnal roses. The Ayrshire and Sem- pervirens, among which there is a paucity of high-coloured flowers, might be fertilized with the farina of some dark varieties selected from those sec- tions which approach nearest to them in natural character. Here Ruga Splen- dens, and Leopoldine d’Orleans, might ‘and Harrisonii. form the female parents. Among the moss, the Single Crimson, Du Luxem- bourg, and Eclatante, occasionally seed. Among the briers, the Double Yellow, Among the Bourbons, the old or de Lisle, Augustine Lelieur, Dubourg, Gloire de Rosaméne, Emile Courtier, and Bouquet de Flore. Among the Chinese, Camellia Blanc, Fabvier, Thérése Stravins, Alba, Belle Elvire, Henri Cinque, and Madame Bureau. Among the tea-scented, Odbrate, Jaune Hamon, Lyonnais, Hardy, Lady Gran- ville, Caroline Gonbault, Belle Alle- mande, and Bardon. Many of the least double Gallica roses also seed freely. As the female parent will, in many cases, be but semi-double, we should endeavour to counteract the: probable results of this by crossing with farina gathered from the most double varieties that we can collect it from. The plants intended. to seed should be selected in a good state of growth, and never al- lowed to suffer from drought. When the bloom is in trusses, the backward flower buds should be cut out, leaving not more than six of the plumpest and most perfect buds on one flower-stalk.’ —Gard. Chron. Those who wish to raise seedling roses should not gather the hips until they have been exposed to frost, for it is a curious fact that the seeds of those thus subjected to.a low temperature germinate with less failures. This isa Jesson probably from nature, for it is certain that the hips of the rose never fall or shed their seed to the ground until they have been frosted. Budding.—Preparing Stocks.—The Boursault and De Lisle roses have been suggested as the best stocks for pot- culture, and if grown in a rich ~shel- tered soil, and cut down for stooling, some of the shoots of the second year may be layered the same season. If the end of the layer is tied carefully to a stick, it will allow a bud to be in- serted in a few weeks. The tongue being cut on the layer’s upper side will save the shoot from breaking. Mr. Reid, of Noble Thorpe, near Barnsley, from whom these directions come, re- commends a piece of clay or a small stone to be inserted in the opening, to prevent its adhering before roots are formed. About the end of October these early layers will be rooted, and may be potted. Only one bud to be Hoe 515 ROS Be. ous ' inserted onastock. Many varieties, as Bourbon, Noisette, China, Tea-scented, &c., if well managed, will bloom beau- tifully in the spring and summer fol- lowing. Mr. Jos. Baumann recommends the seeds of the dog rose to be sown in February, the seedlings, cut. back to two eyes, potted in foriicichts next autumn ; plunged in a border until early in July; to be budded at the end of August; headed down in November; potted in thirty-twos; protected in a frame during winter; started by dung heat in January, and the shoots when three inches long pinched back to one inch, this being repeated two or three times to forma good head. In autumn, prune and shift to larger pots, to re- main for some years. These stocks produce very enduring and bright flow- ers. Rosa Banksia, herberifolia, brac- teata, and multiflora, do best on Quatre Saisons stocks. Wey In budding on the Boursault, and in- deed on any'other rose, an excellent mode is, in April, to tongue a strong shoot, pass it through a forty-eight pot, until the tongue is in the centre, and then press the pot full of a mixture of rotten dung and sand. It may be bud- ded at the time, but whenever done, the shoot should be headed down at the time of budding to within two eyes of the bud.—Gard. Chron. Mr. Glenny recommends the stocks to_be planted in a rich stiffish ground, two feet apart in the row, and three feet between the rows, with a stake every ten feet, and rods of sufficient strength, reaching from one to another, to secure them against the effects of the wind. Plant no deeper than just to cover the crown of the roots) When growing commences rub off, twice a week, all the buds that are not wanted, but let the highest remain, for a stock six feet high often produces no shoots higher than half its height. In the first week of July, the thorns should be re- moved from those places on the stocks intended for budding roses.. If they be not taken away, the operation is ren- dered needlessly troublesome; and it is best done now as time is thus allowed for the bark’s healing. The best time for budding the rose is towards the end of July, a dormant eye being employed, just after a fall of rain, and when no strong dry wind is moving. An atten- tion to these circumstances insures that the sap is flowing freely, and avoids a rapid evaporation, so often preventing success. But budding may be in spring, if the buds are extracted with a small portion of wood adhering tothem. For this purpose, scions are cut before win- ter, and stuck into the ground till the moment when in spring the bark of the stock will run. To prepare the bud, we make firstly, a transverse cut into the wood a little below an eye, which incision is met by a longer cut down- wards, commencing at.a short distance above the eye, care being taken that a portion of wood is removed with the bark. This bud is inserted into the bark of the stock, whichis cut like an inverted 7, the horizontal edges of this cut in the stock, and of the bud, must be brought into the most perfect contact with each other, and then bound with waterproof bast, without, however, applying grafting clay. Eight days after the insertion of the bud, the stock is - pruned down to the branch, which is immediately above the opposite side, and this branch is stopped by being cut down to two or three eyes; all the side wood is destroyed, and when the bud has pushed its fifth leaf, compel it to branch by pinching its extremity ; it will then flower in September of the same year. You may also bud the rose in the spring without waiting till the bark separates, by placing the bud with some wood on it, in a niche made in the stock, similar to what would be formed by taking an eye for budding from it in the manner above described, and into which it is fitted exactly with a slight pressure. It is recommended to make the cut for the niche where there is al- ready a bud on the stock ; when placed, the bud is then bound with bast and covered with mastic.—Gard. Mag. Grafting.—‘“‘ The exact time,” says the best treatise on the ‘Tree Rose,’ <¢ for removing the scions from the pa- rent tree, must depend upon the season; some time during the first three weeks in February is the usual period. There does not exist an actual necessity for cutting the scions until they are required for use; but then it will be more diffi- cult to select the numbers required in a state fit for use, and there isa greater chance of their going off, if the weather ~ remain cold, or the sap be not imme- diately supplied. Scions cut when the ROS 516 ROS ———_ ‘sap is quite down, carry better and are in every way more hardy. Let the shoot remain for three weeks in an out- house, or any other place, neither very dry nor very damp, where neither wind nor sun cancomein contact with them; the clay being damped with a sparing hand, if the generality of the scions appear to shrink, During the first week in March the head of the stock (in which the sap should be beginning to rise) is to be cut off horizontally, a slit made: in it straight downwards of a couple of inches, or an inch and a half long, with- out injuring the sides of the bark. The scion is to be taken in the left hand, three buds, or two if the stock be not large, being left upon it; the lower ex- tremity must then be cut in the shape of a wedge, the back. being rather the thinnest, and the lowest bud about half an inch above the thick end of the wedge. In doing which, care must be taken that the bark be undisturbed, and each scion so placed that when entered in the stock, all the buds may point outward, or at any rate be in such posi- tion, that the shoots from them may not interfere with each other. The end of a budding knife or a little wooden or ivory wedge may be used.to open the slit in the stock on one side, and the scion, with the thickest part or front outwards, must be placed in the other, care being taken that the edge of the inner bark or liber of the scion touches the edges of the inner bark of the stock all the way down ; the wedge may then be removed and another scion entered in its place, the slit being kept open by the first: if the size of the scion be only half the size of the stock, a shoulder may be left to the former, and the chances of success thereby increased. Any number of scions may be inserted in the same stock, but from one to four at most are al] that are desirable in the present case to cover completely the head of the stock, which is apt to re-- ceive much injury from the weather, if not carefully attended to. The object of laying by the scions, is that the stock may be forwardest, and be enabled to supply the sap and force them forward at once, instead of lingering while they perish from exposure and want of nou- rishment. When the shoots are on, the whole must be tied up with a bast liga- ture to prevent the scions from shifting, which from their wedge-like shape they will have a tendency to do, when the rise of the sap swells the stock, thereby diminishing the juxtaposition of their respective libers, and the whole be- neath the lowest bud covered with grafting clay, totally excluding air, sun, and rain. Ifthe clay crack, it must be renewed, not by shifting, but by filling up the crack. In about six months the clay may be removed, and the wound covered with grafting wax; this latter on no account must be omitted.??— Gard. Chron. ‘ *¢ In Flanders, cleft-grafting is adopt- ed, and care taken that the scion is of the same diameter as the stock, or the cleft in the stock made sufficiently near one side of the cross section, that the bark of the scion may fit the stock on both sides. This mode is adopted in grafting one sort of garden-rose upon another. In grafting upon the dog- rose the same practice is followed, with this addition, that a shoulder is very often made to the scion, so as that it may rest with greater firmness upon the stock ; such stocks being often em- ployed as standards, and therefore more - exposed to wind. ‘¢Mr. Calvert, of Rouen, observes that itis the general practice to form the wedge in a part of the scion where there are no buds, but that he adopts a contrary practice, and finds that a bud, on the wedge part of the scion, greatly contributes to the success of the graft. By taking care to have a bud on the lower part of the scion, Mr. Calvert has even been successful in grafting roses. by the whip or splice method, which, without a bud on the lower part of the scion, very often fails; but, with a-bud, fails very seldom.??—Gard. Mag. Cuttings are made to succeed by the following treatment :— : ‘“* Take a cutting of a this-year’s shoot, removing all but one leaf, and cutting off the upper part of the shoot. above the leaf, and reducing its entire length to six inches. The cutting should be planted on the north side of a wall, under glass in a small frame, on a newly prepared hot-bed, and ina soil of leaf-mould, eight inches deep, well soaked with water, and covered over with sand. Water is to be given, and air abundantly, for the first four days, lessening its admission daily, until root- ing 1s completed, which will be in about ‘budded one. ROS 517 ROS —_ —_——_ three weeks. In the fourth week the cutting may be potted.’?—Gard. Chron. ' By Suckers.—Roses send up many suckers annually, which may be taken up in autumn, winter, or early spring, with some rootlets attached; and the strongest may be planted out finally, and the weakest in the nursery for a year or two or longer. They will readily: grow, and will, most of them, produce flowers the following summer. When rose-trees have grown into large bunches, with many suckers, the whole may be taken up and slipped, or divided into separate plants. The moss, and some others, furnish suckers but sparingly. By Layers.—To obtain shoots for layering, a quantity of rose-trees should be planted for stools, which, being headed down low, will throw out shoots abundantly near the ground, in summer, for layering in autumn or winter follow- ing. - They~-will be rooted by next autumn, and fit for transplantation in nursery rows; though sometimes the moss-rose and some others require two years before they are tolerably well rooted. But of these sorts you may also try layers of the shoots of the year, layered in summer, any time in June. They will probably root a little the same season. The layers of all the sorts, after being properly rooted, should be taken up in autumn and planted in the nursery, to’ have one or two years’ srowth.— Abercrombie. Soil.—AJ}l the cultivated roses, and especially the double-flowering kinds, require a rich loamy soil inclining to clay rather than sand ; and they require also, like most double flowers, plenty - of moisture when in a growing state. Manures.—The best is a mixture of. one part guano, three parts charred turf and earth, and six parts cow-dung. A thin dressing pointed in every spring, Pruning.—Mr. Glenny gives these very good and full directions :— «¢ Suppose we have a standard, with only one branch-from the bud, which is always stronger and better than if there are two or three—the first season we should cut that to within two eyes of the ground, if a rose on its own root, or within two eyes of the stock, if it be a These two eyes would, the very first year, send out two bloom- ing branches, which would grow a con- siderable length. The next season we should cut both of these into within two eyes, of the short branch they started from; and this would make each of those branches start out two more; and unless to get the tree, or the dwarf bush, into any particular form, we should never omit cutting down shoots, and often cut out old lumps of wood and branches to thin the tree, which must never get crowded. By the same rule we should always cut away all the spindly shoots. China roses, and all constant. bloomers, which require con- tinued attention, should have only the old wood and the weak shoots cut away, because any violent pruning would throw the plant out of flower for a con- siderable time ; while carefully remov- ing the seed-vessels, and taking away weak wood to make room. for the stronger, will keep them constantly flowering. This is especially requisite with chmbing roses, where the favour- able aspect, and other circumstances, may set the seed of almost every bloom. The swelling of their seed-vessels will take all the nourishment from the shoots that would otherwise continue to grow and bear flowers; and the seed will often complete its growth and ripen before there is anything like a general bloom again.”»—Gard. and Prac. Flor. .6¢ A’ very good time for performing the operation is immediately after the bloom is over ; cutting out old exhausted wood, shortening shoots which have flowered to a good bud accompanied with a healthy leaf, but leaving such shoots as are still in a growing state untouched till October. «¢ Where very large roses are wanted, all the buds but that on the extreme point of each shoot should be pinched off as soon as they make their appear- ance, and the plant liberally supplied with water. «To lessen evaporation, and keep up a. constant moisture at the root of their roses, the Paris gardeners gene- rally mulch them with half-rotten stable dung or partially rotten leaves.?>—Enc. Gard. aie’ s The Banksian Rose must be pruned at no other time, but immediately after it has done blooming in June, or early in July. Planting. —‘* On removing trees,’ says the author of the Tree Rose, ‘ the fresh shoots they have made, and the appearance of those which were left, ROS 518 ROS ed will require attention in the applica- tion of the knife. In pruning a large root it.should be cut to a lateral; in shortening a small one, to a fibre. Where a plant has been examined and trimmed recently, however, the knife should be sparingly used. << And it may here be well to observe, that all cuts to remove branches, knots, or roots, should be quite clean, slant- ing (and deep enough to the stem, viz. even with it), and nothing left projecting Jest dead wood be the consequence, and the plant be eventually injured. Aljl wounds should be carefully healed, and dead wood should, in all cases, be removed, and living bark encircle that which reiains.”? The best time for planting is No- vember. Forcing. — For the following very successful mode of forcing roses, we are indebted to R. A. Salisbury, Esq :-— << Take off strong suckers about the end of October or beginning of No- vember, with all the fibres they may have forméd, which can only be well done by digging up the parent ‘stock. Plant these suckers in pots only about four inches diameter at the top, wind- ing the sucker three, four, or five times round the inside of the pot ;.and prune it, so as to leave no more than two buds, or three at most, above ground. Fill the pots with hazel loam, mixed with one-third equal parts charred turf and vegetable mould, pressing it firmly down to keep the sucker from starting, and plunge them to the brim close to one another quincunx fashion, in an open bed fully exposed to the sun and air. <¢ The small size of these pots makes stronger blossoms, even the first if the suckers are large; and as they are to be shifted annually, it is absolutely necessary to begin with small pots. To have a plentiful supply of blos- soms during the months of December, January, February, March, April and May, from one hundred to three hun- dred suckers must be thus prepared. ‘For the plants to be forced, from December to March, a small frame should be devoted, about twelve feet long, five feet wide, seven feet wide behind, and only six or eight inches in front. This pitch admits the rays of light, at that period, to strike upon the plants to the greatest advantage, a flue, or tank, or pipes, if hot water be used, running from one .end to the other. “If the floor be built thick, and the fire- place, as well as the chimney-top, be well closed up after the heat has pene- trated the flue, the air within will be sufficiently heated with very little fuel, and require no attendance at night, ex- cept in very severe frost. The back of this frame may consist of wood, or a narrow brick, at’ pleasure, and should have a door in the middle, just sufh- ciently large to admit the gardener to creep in and water the plants, by reaching over them from one side to the other without any walk inside. «¢ A strong latticed floor must be fixed six inches above the flue, on which the pots must be placed when introduced ; and these must have a pan or receiver under each, to prevent the heat of the - flue, which will now and then be smart notwithstanding every precaution, from striking directly on the pots them- selves. After the month of March, roses may be advantageously forced in other houses and situations, but hardly sooner, except on the front flue of a pine-stove: and a small frame like this is not only built and maintained at a small cost ; but the lights may be used for other crops, especially melons, after. June. ‘< The plants to be forced into blos- som by Christmas-day should be placed in this frame on the first day of October, lighting fires gradually, so as to keep the temperature, in the daytime, rather increasing than decreasing—from 60° of Fahrenheit to 80°; but at night 33° ROS is not toolow. If the plantsmeet with one frosty night or two in the beginning of October, so much the better; for they will push more vigorously after the heat is applied. The first year none of the crops will come in so early as afterwards; and I advise all the young suckers to be forced in succes- sion the first year, not waiting till they have had one year’s growth in the open air., Moreover, if the. suckers are strong, they will produce more blos- soms than might be expected. The second crop of plants introduced on the first of November will blossom from the middle of January to mid-February; the third crop,. introduced December Ist, from mid-February to the middle of March ; those of the fourth crop, intro- duced on the first of January, from the middle of March to the middle of April ; those of the fifth crop, introduced on the first of February, from the middle of April to the middle of May; those of the sixth and last crop, introduced on the first of March, from the middle of May till the middle of June, when several varieties in the open ground as gin to blossom. << As soon as the plants begin to aiush their buds, whether any aphides ap- pear upon the young shoots or not, fill the frame with tobacco-smoke ; and ‘do not fail to repeat this every third week till the flowers appear; smoking, ‘for the last time, just before any'red tints appear on the earliest buds. No un- pleasant smell of the tobacco will re- main upon the plants after a day or two. The young shoots must also be carefully examined when half an inch long, and any grubs feeding upon them destroyed. ‘‘ After the blossoms. are gathered the plants must not be removed to a back shed, but - kept in the frame, or brought back into it, if they have been taken into the apartments of the owner, permitting them to grow as they do in summer, in the open air, for at least]. two or three months. They must then be placed in a shady situation, and kept rather dry than moist, to sees them into a state of rest. <¢ After the month of Mage Mr. Salis- bury prefers inverting them, especially _ the earlier crops, between two planks ‘raised upon tressels, high enough to prevent the branches from touching the earth, as in the annexed sketch, having 519 —¢——. ROS for twenty-five years experienced the utility of this treatment, and suspecting that it strengthens the future blossoms by retaining sap in the branches, which would otherwise descend to the root or form suckers. ‘¢ While the plants are growing they must be constantly supplied with moist- ure — water and guano, or pigeons? dung infused in it a few days before, in the proportion of one ounce of the former, and of the latter one ounce to a gallon of water. Where pigeons’ dung cannot be had, two ounces of sheep or deer’s dung may be substi- tuted to each gallon of water. << Itnow only remains to add, that it is most important in forcing roses to mark all the plants, so that those intro- duced into the frame in October, the first year, may be introduced on the same day, the second and every suc- ceeding year. ‘To secure this, paint No. 1, 2, 3, &c., upon the pots them- selves, No. | to go in first, and so on. “‘ Every year, about a fortnight -be- fore the plants are forced, they must be shifted into larger pots, exactly one inch wider in diameter, and not more, turning them out without breaking the ball or disturbing any of the fibres, and filling the pots with the same compost of hazel loam, charred turf, and vege- table earth. By this method the same plants may be forced for ten years, without the inconvenience of using a very large pot, as the last season they will. not want to be removed, or may be shifted into the same pot again. ‘sWith respect to pruning, I have never been in the habit of leaving more than two buds on each branch, and, as the plants increase in size and number of branches, often only one bud upon the weaker branches. It is much bet- ter to have from ten to twenty strong blossoms than a larger number of weak ones, and the foliage is likewise more healthy. »—Gard. Mag. Pot-Culture has been more fully dis- ROS 520 “ROS —+—— cussed by Messrs. Paul and Son, the florists of Cheshunt, than by any other authority ; and from their observations I have made these extracts :— “¢‘ Transplanting and Potting.—Early ‘In -autumn, immediately after rain, re- move both worked plants and others from the ground. Such as have grown moderately, with well ripened wood, should be chosen. The pots best suit- ed are numbers thirty-two, twenty-four, sixteen and twelve, according to the size of the plant, and they should be well drained. . The soil should be pressed firmly in the pots, watering freely afterwards, through a fine rose, to settle the soil. ‘¢ The cultivation of the autumnals, on their own roots, may be commenced at any season, as they are usually kept growing in pots. If purchased in spring, in sixties, they may be immediately shift- ed into forty-eights, then plunged, and watered continually as required. Our aim being to get the plants strong, they should not be suffered to flower, but endeavour, through the growing season, to bring them to form only a few vi- gorous shoots. To accomplish this it is advisable to rub out some of the buds when first pushing, but keeping in view the handsome formation of the plant. «‘The plantsmay be shifted on through the season ; and in the following spring we shall probably find them in sixteen or twelve-sized pots, preparing for a vigorous growth and bloom. “Thinning out. — When potting, all suckers should be cut from the worked plants, and straggling shoots shortened back to within a few eyes. Where too thick, some of the shoots may be cut out entirely, from three to ten, accord- ing to the age or growth of the plant, being in most cases sufficient. Thin- ning, in summer, immediately after flowering, is very beneficial. The best ripened shoots should be left, and such as stand in the best position. These may be -shortened in November and March, some at both periods, to obtain an early and late bloom. ¢Sozl.—T wo parts of fresh turfy loam, broken up but not sifted, two parts ma- nure (road gatherings laid by for a sea- son, or the remains of a hot-bed not too far decomposed), and one part paral earth. ‘¢ This compost should be thrown up in a heap in autumn, and turned two or three times during winter, and a little newly slaked lime scattered throughout to destroy worms and grubs. This is the soil used for the moss, but for the delicate varieties, (Chinese, &c.,) it may be improved by the addition of one part leaf-mould or well pulverized manure.” Protection.—After potting, the plants taken from the ground, should be re- moved to acold pit, syringing and shad- ing if sunny weather, for a week or ten days. It will be well if the tender va- rieties can be allowed to remain in the pit during winter, at which season they require scarcely any water, otherwise they should be removed to the north side of a wall or fence, and a thatch of fern or beech boughs, ‘with the dJeaves on, formed. The hardy ones may be removed from the pits about a month after being potted, and plunged at once in the open ground where intended to be grown and flowered. Pruning.—About the middle of No- vember pruning may be performed, in order to effect an early bloom. The plants having been thinned out previ- ously, all that is now required, is the shortening in of the remaining shoots. Among the hybrid Chinese, the two favourite old roses, Brennus and Ful- gens, both vigorous growers, frequently occasion great disappointment by. not blooming. The failure will probably be found to arise from the method of pruning. These roses, and others of Tiler hate, should be well thinned out, but. the shoots that are left for flowering short- ened but little. Others of the same class (hybrid Chinese), that are weak growers, may be shortened in close, such are General Allard and Lady Stuart. There are also varieties of interme- diate growth, which may be pruned in proportion. The classes Gallica, Pro- vence, and Moss, may be pruned closer than the hybrid Chinese. The autumnal roses there is but little fear of pruning out of bloom ; early or late, they are sure to flower. These, when grown on their own roots, should be cut down almost close to the ground, to induce them to throw up suckers from beneath, which will grow much stronger than shoots formed above. ground, and flower beautifully through the summer and autumn. One point too should be borne in mind, that roses, when grown in pots, may be pruned ton ROS 521 ROS —_o——- ) J closer than when grown in the open garden. Removal of Tender Varieties. — By the end of March, if room cannot be granted them in pits or a green-house, the tender varieties may be brought from their winter residence and plunged in an airy situation, and such as were left unpruned for late flowering, should now be pruned. But if allowed to re- main in the pits through spring, they will bloom much earlier, in greater perfection, and with finer foliage. ' Plunging.—Place the pots so that the bottoms rest on an inverted seed- pan or flower-pot. This secures drain- age, prevents the roots growing through the bottom of the pot into the soil, and is an effectual barrier to the ingress of worms. The pots may be plunged level with the ground, and so far apart that the plants may not touch each other when full grown. After plunging, it is beneficial to cover the surface lightly with stable manure. Watering.—Water should be given -abundantly through the growing and blooming season. Guano-water is an excellent manure for roses in pots; it should, however, be used cautiously. _If the plants require watering oftener than once a week, pure water should be given at the intervening periods. — Disbudding, §c. — When the buds first push, if two or three break close together, the weakest, or those taking | the least favourable direction, should be rubbed out. Such shoots as are in- clined to grow rank without blooming, should be stopped or taken drills half an inch deep, and six inches apart. The plants soon make their ap- pearance, and when two or three inches high, thin to half a foot apart, and those removed prick out at a similar distance. In the autumn or succeeding spring, as the plants are strong or weak, remove them to their final stations. - After-Culture-—During their future existence, keep constantly clear of weeds. The decayed flower-stalks, stunted branches, &c., remove in early winter and spring, and the soil of the beds slightly turn over. All irregular growth may be corrected during the spring and summer. When the plants have continued two or three years, a little dry, well putrefied dung may be turned in during early spring with con- siderable advantage. A due attention to the mode of gathering has no small influence in keeping the plants healthy and vigorous. The tops ought never to be cropped too close, so as to render the branches naked or stumpy. This should be especially attended to in au- ‘tumn and winter. During this last sea- son, they are less liable to be injured by severe frost, if kept with a full re- gular head. If appearance is consider- ed, fresh plants must be raised every three or four years. For drying, the shoots and leaves may be gathered any time in summer before the plants flower, which they do in July. To obtain Seed.—Two or three of the Set out.at once where they are- finest plants of two years’ growth must be left, not nearer to each other than four feet, and when the plants begin to flower, a plentiful watering given, and repeated every other day until the seed has attained its full growth. When perfectly ripe, the plants being pulled up, and completely dried, they easily shed their seed if struck on the floor. SAGITTARIA. Fifteen species. Hardy, halfthardy, stove and green- house aquatic perennials. Division. Loamy soil. SAGUS. Four species. Stove palms. Sandy ]oam and a strong moist heat. ST. ANDREW’°’S CROSS. Ascyrum ~ Cruz Andree. ST. BARNABY’S THISTLE. Cen- taurea solstitialis. SAINTFOIN. Onobrychis. ST. JOHN’S WORT. Hypericum. ST. MARTIN’S FLOWER. Als- tremeria Flos-Martinz. ST. PETER’S WORT. Hypericum Ascyron. SALADING. See the following: American Cress. | Horse Radish. Beet Root. Lettuce. Borage. Mint. Burnet. Mustard. Celeriac. Onions. Celery. °"~ Purslane. Chervil. Radishes. Corn Salad. Rape. Cress. Scurvy Grass. Dandelion. Succory. Endive. Water Cress: Finochio. | Wood Sorrel. - Garden Rocket. SALICORNIA. Six species. Hardy _ and green-house evergreen shrubs and creepers. Hardy annuals and half hardy perennials. Seeds or division. Common soil. Pipe SALISBURIA adiantifolia. Maiden Hair Tree. Hardy deciduous _ tree. Layers. Common~soil. ‘ The Salis- - buria is a native of Japdn and China, and forms a large tree in its native country. Bunge, who accompanied the Russian mission to China, states, that he saw one with a trunk nearly forty feet in circumference. Mr. Loudon says, the tree grows with considerable rapidity in the climate of London, and has attained the height of forty or fifty feet, in as many years. The longevity of the Salisburia promises to be great, as the largest trees in England continue to grow with as much vigour, as when SAR 527 SAL ——o——_ newly planted. The highest tree there, | flavour is that of oyster patties.—Aber= planted in 1767, was, in 1838, above sixty feet. _ 6 Tt was introduced into the United States, by Mr. Hamilton, in 1784, and the tree now growing at the Woodlands, near Philadelphia, is, doubtless, the one then imported. A specimen at the Landreth Nurseries, when planted is unknown, has attained the height of 50 feet and continues in fine health. There is also one of considerable size in the Mall, at Boston.?”—Comp. Florist. SALIX. The Willow. One hundred and eighty-five species. Hardy decidu- ous shrubs and trees. Cuttings. Swampy soil. SALMEA. Two species. evergreen twiners. Light rich soil. SALPIGLOSSIS sinuata, and its va- rieties. Hardy and green-house annuals and biennials. Seeds. Peat and loam. ~SALSAFY. Tragopogon porrifolius. Soil.—This should be light and mode- rately fertile. At the time of sowing trench it, turning in a little manure with the bottom spit only. Sow in March and April, in an open situation to remain, in shallow drills, nine inches asunder, scatter the seeds thinly, and cover them half an inch deep. When the plants are up two or three inches high, thin and weed them, leaving them ten inches asunder, re- peating the weeding as may be required during the summer and during very dry weather, watering occasionally very plentifully, and if halfan ounce of guano is added to each gallon of water it will be very beneficial. This is all the cul- ture they require. They will have large roots by September or October; when you may begin taking them up for use; and in November, when the leaves be- gin to decay, a quantity may be pre- served in sand for use in time of severe frost ; but those left in the ground will not be injured. In spring, when those remaining in the ground begin to vege- tate, the shoots when a few inches high may be cut for use as asparagus, being excellent when quite young and tender. Suffer, however, always a few plants to run up to stalk every spring to produce seed. - The best mode of. cooking the roots is to boil and mash them, form them into cakes and fry them in butter. The . Stove Young cuttings. crombie. Hovey’s Mag. SALTPETRE. See Sants,— Nitrate of Potash. SALTS. The day has long passed when it was disputed whether any saline bodies are promotive of the growth of plants. It is now determined that some plants will not even live without the means of procuring certain salts. Bo- rage, the nettle, and parietaria. will not exist except where nitrate of potash is in the soil; turnips, lucerne, and some other plants will not succeed where there is no sulphate of lime. These are facts that have silenced disputation. Still there are found persons who main- tain that salts are not essential parts of a plant’s structure; they assert that such bodies are beneficial to a plant by absorbing moisture to the vicinity of its roots, or by improving the staple of the soil, or by some other secondary mode. This, however, is refuted by the fact that salts enter as intimately into the constitution of plants as do phosphate of lime into that of bones, and carbo- nate of lime into that of egg-shells. They are part of their very fabric, uni- versally present, unremovable by edul- coration however long continued, re- maining after the longest washing, and ‘always to be found in the ashes of all sand of any of their parts, when sub- jected to incineration. Thus Saussure observes that the phosphate of lime is universally present in plants.—Sur Ke Veget. c. 8.8. 4. The sap of all trees contains seetate of potash ;. Beet-root contains malate and oxalate of potash, ammonia and, lime;, Rhubarb, oxalate of potash and lime; Horse-radish, sulphur; Aspara- gus, super-malates, chlorides, acetates, and phosphates of potash and lime; Potatoes, magnesia, citrates and phos- phates of potash and lime; Jerusalem Artichoke, citrate, malate, sulphate, chloride, and phosphate of potash; Garlic, sulphate of potash, magnesia, and phosphate of lime; Geraniums, tartrate of lime, phosphates of lime and. magnesia; Peas, phosphate of lime; Kidney Beans, phosphate of lime and potash ; Oranges, carbonate, sulphate, and muriate of potash; Apples and Pears, malate of potash; Grapes, tar- trate of lime ; Capsicums, citrate, mu- riate, and phosphate of potash; Oak, carbonate of potash; and the Lilac, é SAL 528 SAL es nitrate of potash. Let no one fancy that the salts are avery trivial propor- tion of the fabric of plants. In the Capsicum, they constitute one-tenth of its fruit ; of carrot juice, one-hundredth; of Rhubarb, one-eleventh ; of Potatoes, one-twentieth ; whilst of the seed of the Lithospermum officinale, they actually constitute more than one-half. Their constituents are as follows .— Carbonate oflime . . . 43.7 Silica pe em: 6140 0h ee DGD Vegetable matter, phos- 39.8 phate of lime, &c. . fo These amounts are nearly as much of earthy saline matters as exist in hu- man bones; but if we turn to the mar- row, it only contains one-twentieth of saline matters; the blood only one- hundredth; muscle, only one-thirty- fourth ; yet no one will argue that these saline constituents, though smaller than those in vegetables, are trivial and un- important. Saline manures are generally bene- ficial, and often essential. An import- ant consideration, therefore, is con- tained in the answer to the query—so often put. How should saline manures be applied? Our answer is, that, when practicable, they ought to be in very small quantities and frequently, during the time of the plant’s growth. No plan can be worse than soaking seed in a saline solution, for the purpose of giving such salt to the plant of which it will be the parent. It is soddening the embryo with a superfluity totally use- less to it, and if it does not injure the germination, it will be most probably washed away before the roots begin to absorb such nutriment. For the mode in which salts are beneficial to plants, see Manures. Common Salt.—Chloride of sodium, applied in the spring at the rate of twenty bushels per acre, has been found very beneficial to asparagus, broad beans, lettuces, onions, carrots, pars- neps, potatoes, and beets. Indeed its properties are so generally useful, not only as promoting fertility, but as de- stroying slugs, &c., that it is a good plan to sow the whole garden every March with this manure; at the rate above specified. The flower garden is included in this recommendation; for some of the best practical gardeners recommend it for the stock, hyacinth, amaryllis, ixia, anemone, colchicum, narcissus, ranunculus, &c.; and in the fruit garden it has been found beneficial to almost every one of its tenants, espe- cially the cherry and apple. On lawns and walks it helps to drive away worms, and to destroy moss. Ammonia. — The salts of ammonia are highly stimulating, and afford by their ready decomposition, abundant food to plants. The dungs of animals are fertilizing exactly in proportion to the amount of ammonia in them. The only care required is not to apply them _ too abundantly. Half an ounce to each gallon of water, given at the most twice a week, is a good recipe for all the am- moniacal salts. The ammoniacal gas liquor at the rate of one pint to two gallons of water, is highly beneficial to spinach and grass.—Gard. Chron. ; Phosphate of Ammonia has been ap- plied with advantage to cress. Sulphate of Ammonia.—This, and the nitrate of ammonia, have proved bene- ficial to potatoes in Scotland. A writer in the Floricultural Cabinet says, that having obtained a pailful of gas-liquor, he diluted it with water, and added some sulphuric acid, thus forming a solution of sulphate of ammonia, and watered with it in October, a bed (twen- ty feet long by four feet two inches wide) destined to-be planted with Ra- nunculuses. They bloomed very strong in this bed, some of the flower-stems were two feet high; the blooms averag- ing between three and four inches in diameter; the roots also lifted large and clean.—Filor. Cab. hi Chalk may be applied in large quan- tities, twenty or thirty tons per acre, to render a light siliceous soil more re- tentive or a heavy soil more open. Its basis, lime, enters into the composition of most plants in some state of combi- nation. Itis very far from immaterial where this mineral is obtained from to improve the staple of our soils. Those chalks which are merely carbonate of lime, with a trace of oxide of iron, are unexceptionable; but there are some which contain phosphate of lime, and these are very much to be preferred. Mr. Brande states the chalk of Brighton. to be thus constituted. Carbonate of lime . 2 98ST: —————- magnesia . 0.38 — Phosphate oflime . j 0.11 Oxides of ironand manganese 0.14 Alumina and silica ._ 0.80. SAL 529 SAL ——_¢——_ If the chalk is to be burnt into lime before it is applied, care should be taken that it does not contain, like some ofthe Yorkshire chalks, a large propor- tion of carbonate of magnesia. Mag- nesia remains Jong in a caustic state, and has been found injurious to the plants to which it has been applied. Chloride of Lime gradually gives out a portion of its chlorine, and is con- verted into muriate of lime, a very de- liguescing salt, which can hardly exist in any soil, however light, without. keeping it moist; and its nauseous odour may be found to keep off the attacks of the fly, and other vermin. A solution containing one ounce in five gallons of water, is said to destroy the -aphis and the caterpillar, if poured over the trees they infest. Gas Lime is a hydro-sulphuret of lime, with a little ammonia. It is an excel- lent manure, especially to cabbages, turnips, cauliflowers, and brocoli, dug in at the time of planting or sowing. If sown over the surface at the time of inserting the crop, at the rate of twenty bushels per acre, it will effectually drive away the turnip-fly, slug, &c. Gypsum, or Plaster of Paris, is sul- phate of lime, composed of Sulphuric acid Bh gal, Aas Lime . 3 ° = . 33 Water at cists : . 22 It has. been found very useful as a top dressing to lawns, and- dug in for turnips and potatoes... Three hundred weight per acre is abundance. Nitrates of Potash (Saltpetre), and of Soda (Cubic Petre), have been found beneficial to carrots, cabbages, and lawns. One pound to a square rod of ground is a sufficient quantity. Both these nitrates have been found bene- ficial to potatoes in Scotland... Mr. Murray. says that, from 1810 down to the present time, he has been in the habit of watering pinks and carnations with solutions of these two nitrates, and the benefit has been uniform and eminent in promoting their luxuriance. —Gard. Gaz. : They have also been given in solu- tion with great benefit to lettuces, celery, fuchsias, and dahlias. One pound to twelve gallons of water. Nitrate of Soda destroys slugs. Phosphate of Lime.—The importance of bones and other manures containing phosphoric salts as a general manure, 34 , is further sustained by the experiments of Dr. Jackson, the American chemist. He found phosphates in peas and’ beans of various kinds, in pumpkin seeds, chestnuts, potatoes, raspberries, and turnips. See Bones. Super-Phosphate of Lime.—Chrysan- themums were much incréased in vi- gour when watered with a solution of this salt in the Chiswick Garden, at the end of July. It is thought, if the appli- cation had been made earlier, the be- nefit would have been still more marked. Professor Lindley says this salt seems to have a beneficial eflect on most plants, and that it may be applied in different proportions without the least risk of ‘injuring the plants.— Gard. Chron. Heaths appear to like it.. The best practical mode of obtaining super-phos-| _ phate of lime for manure, is to pour one pound of sulphuric acid, mixed with one pound of water, upon each two pounds of bone dust, allowing the mixture a week to complete the decom- position. Sulphate of lime and super- phosphate of lime are the result. The Duke of Richmond and, others have tried this with very great success upon turnips. It being in a liquid form, it must be mixed with earth to facilitate | its application, or else be applied through the rose of a watering-pot. SALT TREE. Halimodendron. SALVIA. See Clary and Sage. One hundred and five species. The shrubby, stove, and green-house kinds, increase by cuttings; the herbaceous, by division; the annuals and biennials, seeds. Common soil suits them all. S. patens makes a splendid bed. The . flower-spikes should be cut off for a time, and the young shoots regularly pegged down till they nearly cover the ~ bed, when the flowers will be produced. so numerously as to form oné mass of intense blue.—Gard. Chron. Mr. Vaux, of Ryde, in the Ise. of Wight, says, that there ‘‘it ripens seeds perfectly in the open air. Sow it in pots in autumn; put the pots in a cool frame protected from frost, where they may remain during the winter. In the spring, place.in the green-house when the seedlings come up; and in the early part of May, bed them out; they bloom beautifully during the summer and au- tumn. For beds they are superior to SAM 530 SAV ieee cuttings, as they grow dwarf and more bushy.?*—Gard. Chron. SAMBUCUS., Elder. Seven spe- cies and many varieties. All hardy. The deciduous shrubby kinds are in- creased by cuttings; the herbaceous perennials, by division. They will grow in any soil. See Elder. SAMOLUS. Three species. Green- house or hardy herbaceous perennials. ‘Division. Common soil, and a rather moist situation. -SAMPHIRE. Crithmum maritimum, though a native of the sea-shore, may be cultivated successfully in the garden. Soil.—It requires a sandy or gravelly soil, and the north side of a wall. Propagation. — The roots may be planted, or the seed sown, in: April; the only cultivation required being to keep the plants free from weeds, and to water it about twice a week with water containing half an ounce of guano and one ounce of salt per gallon. SAMYDA. Seven species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.. Loam and peat. SAND is one of the agents most fre- quently employed by the gardener in the cuiture of potted plants. The kind most suitable to his purpose, is either silver sand, or drift river-sand, both of which are silica nearly in a state of purity. These sands being very slow conductors of heat, and affording a ready escape for superfluous moisture, are admirably adapted for promoting the rooting of cuttings, and preventing the damping-off of seedlings. See Pot- ting, Sotl, and Damping-off. SAND wo OD. Bremontiera am- mozxylon. SANGUINARIA. Two spe- cies. Hardy tuberous-rooted peren- nials. Division or seeds. Sandy loam or peat. s SANGUISORBA. Burnet. Eight species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division, seeds. Common soil. See Burnet. SANSEVIERA. Fourteen species. Stove herbaceous perennials. Suckers. Sandy loam. 8S. carnea is hardy. SANTOLINA. Five species. Hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Common soil. SANVITALIA crenumenae Hardy trailing annual. Seeds. Common soil. SAPONARIA. Soapwort. Thirteen species. Hardy annuals and biennials, hardy and half-hardy herbaceous peren- nials and creepers. Division, seeds, and also by young cuttings of the branching species. Sandy loam. and eat. ; SARACHA. Three species. Hardy trailing annuals. S. viscosa, a green- house deciduous shrub, is increased by ae others by seeds. Common soil... SARCANTHUS. Six species. Stove orchids. Cuttings. Moss, potsherds, and wood, and a moist atmosphere. SARCOCAPNOS enneaphylia. Hardy herbaceous perennial. Seeds or cut- tings. Common soil, rock work. SARCOCAULON. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam, peat, leaf-mould, and sand. SARCOCEPHALUS esculentus. Stove evergreen shrub. piesa Loam, peat, and sand. SARCOLOBUS. evergreen twiners. mould. SARCOPHYLLUM carnosum. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Loam, peat, and-sand. SARCOSTEMMA. Two species. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Sandy loam. SARRACENTA. Flower. | Five | species. herbaceous perennials. Divisions. Peat and sphagnum. They require a close damp atmosphere. Stove Rich Two species. rg Side Saddle ~ Half-hardy SASSAFRAS. Laurus sassafras. SATUREIA. Savory. Seven spe- cies. Hardy and half-hardy evergreen S, Division, slips, Dry light sandy soil. shrubs, and herbaceous perennials. hortensis is an annual. cuttings, seeds. See Savory. SATYRIUM. Eight species. Green- house tuberous-rooted orchids. Divi- sion. Sandy loam and peat. . SAURAUJA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. © SAUROGLOSSUM elatum. orchid. Division. Sandy peat. SAUSSUREA. Twelve species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division or seeds. Common soil. SAUVAGESIA. Two species. Stove annuals. Seeds. Peat and loam. . SAVORY. Satureia. | . S. montana, winter or perennial sa- Stove vory. SS. hortensis, summer or annual savory. a SAW 531 SCH — ‘They may be sown in the open ground in spring. In the latter end of March or in April, sow the seed in a light rich soil, moderately thick, and rake them in evenly; the seedlings soon come up; give occasional weed- ing, and thin them moderately, and they may either remain where sown, or may be transplanted. Observe, however, of the Winter Savory, that when the seedlings are about two or three inches high, it is eligible to plant out a quan- tity of the strongest, in moist weather, in nursery rows six inches asunder, to remain till September or spring follow- ing, then to be transplanted with balls where they are finally to remain, in rows a foot asunder. But the Annual or Summer Savory may either remain where sown, thinning the plants to six or eight inches’ distance, or when two inches high may be pricked out in beds, in rows the above distance; in either ease the plants will become useful in June or July, and until winter. Or when designed te have the Winter or Summer Savory remain where sown, the seeds may be sown in shallow drills, either in beds, or along the edge of any bed or border by way of an edging. By Slips,-§c.—In the spring or early part ofsummer, the Winter Savory may be increased plentifully by slips or cut- tings of the young shoots or branches, five or six inches long; plant them with a dibble, in any shady border, in rows six inches asunder, giving occasional waterings, and they will be well rooted by September, when they may be trans- planted. SAW-DUST mixed with dung of any sort speedily decays, and forms a very valuable manure. In one instance, the dung of four rabbits and their young ones, saw-dust in their hutches being used instead of straw, was the only manure used upon one-quarter of an acre.—Gard. Chron. SAW-FLY. See Athalia. SAWS for garden pruning must have a double row of teeth, to obviate the tendency to nip, that the dampness of green wood and the leverage of the branch occasions. One with a very narrow blade, and one with a handle six feet long, will be found convenient. The face of the wound made by a saw should always be cut smooth with the knife, otherwise the wet lodging on its rough surface occasions decay. See Bill. SAW-WORT. Serratula. ° SAXIFRAGA.. Saxifrage. Ninety- two species, and some varieties. Chief- ly hardy herbaceous perennials; a few | are annuals, and some half-hardy.— Seeds. Division. Light sandy soil. SCABIOSA. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Seeds. Com- mon soil. ‘ SCABIOUS. Scabiosa. SC/AVA. Hawk Fly. Of this genus there are several species, of which the most common are S. ribesii and S. py- rastri. Wherever aphides are abun- dant, whether on the cabbage, hop, or elsewhere, there is a fleshy green mag- got. This is the larva of a hawk- -fly, and should be left undisturbed, as it is a voracious destroyer of plant lice.— Gard. Chron. SCAXVOLA. Eight species: Green- house herbaceous perennials, or stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Turfy loam, peat, and sand. SCALL ION. See Ciboule. SCARES are but very inefficient pro- tections ; for birds soon sit on the very branches which bear the malkin. To frighten them effectually, it is best to employ boys, for the short time scaring ‘is required. Over seed beds a net is the best protection ; but threads taut- ened across the beds; are said to be equally efficacious. SCARLET POMPONE. Lilium pom- ponium. SCEPTRANTHES Drummondi. Half. hardy tuberous-rooted perennial. Off- sets. Rich mould. — SCHELHAMMERA. Two species. Green-house herbaceous perennials. Division. Peat and loam. SCHIMIDELIA, Five species. Stove evergreen tree. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. SCHINUS. Two species. Stove evergreen tree and shrub. Ripe cut- tings. Common soil. SCHIZASA. Five species. Stove, green-house, and hardy herbaceous perennials. Division or seeds. Peat and loam. SCHIZANDRA coccinea. Green- house evergreen trailer. Ripe cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. SCHIZANTHUS. Six species. Har- dy annuals. Seeds. Light soil. SCHIZOMERIA ovata. Green-hous SCH 532 SCI evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Loam and | it to bury itself in the ground, and pass sandy peat. into the chrysalis form.?>—Kollar. SCHIZOPETALON Walkeri. Seeds. Half- hardy -annual. Loam, peat, and sand. SCILLA. Squill. Thirty-onespecies, and many varieties. All bulbous per- ennials, and chiefly hardy. 8S. brevi- SCHOMBURGHIA. Three species. | folia is a green-house, S. indica is a Stove orchids. Division. A block of wood, or turfy heath mould and pot- sherds. SCHOTIA. ae species. Stove or green-house evergreen shrubs. Cut- tings. Loam and peat. SCHRADERA cephalotes. Stove evergreen climber. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. #7) SCHRANKIA. Two species. Stove and half-hardy herbaceous perennials. Young cuttings or division. Loam, eat, and sand. SCHUBERTIA graveolens. evergreen twiner. Cuttings. peat, and sand. SCIARA. A genus of Midges. S. pyri, Small Pear Midge. 8S. Schmid- bergeri, Large Pear Midge. When a fallen pear is cut open, it is often found core-eaten, and with a brown powder marking the progress of the assailant. This is caused by the larva of these insects. The midges appear early in July. M. Kollar says, that the small pear midge has club-shaped halteres, the club dark brown, and the stem whitish. When alive, the abdomen is of a lead colour, with black wings. The head and thorax are black, as are also the antenne; the palpi are of a pale yellow, the feet whitish, and the tarsi black. The Large Pear Midge appears about the same time as the preceding. M. Kollar thus describes it: ‘‘.The female is litte more than a line long, and half a line thick, also much larger than the smaller pear midge; the male is more slender, and somewhat shorter. The antenne are blackish, and not so long as the body. The head is black and shining, as is also the thorax ; the proboscis ash-gray, the abdomen of the male a deep black, that of the female browner, with black wings ; the anal point, however, is quite black. The feet ash-gray, and the tarsi and wings black... They both survive the winter, and deposit their eggs in the blossom, when it opens in early spring. The larva eats its way into the core of the young fruit, and again eats its way out at one side, when the time arrives for Stove Loam, stove species. Offsets. Light soil. SCIODAPHYLLUM.. Seven species. Stove or green-house evergreen trees, shrubs, and climbers. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. SCION is the portion of the branch selected for insertion in the stock, and destined to become the future plant. The following directions, given by Mr. Loudon, embrace all the information generally applicable to the subject. All particular directions will be found under the title of the plant to be graft- ed from :— ‘¢ Scions are generally the shoots of last summer’s growth, from the outside lateral branches of healthy trees, be- cause in them the shoots are not so robust and apt to run to wood as in the centre and top of the tree, nor so weak as those which are at its base, and ua- der the shade and drip of the rest. An exception to this rule is to be found in the case. of debilitated trees, where the scions should be taken from the strong- est shoots. The middle part of each shoot makes always the best scion; but Jong shoots, and especialy where the scion is of a rare variety, may be cut into several scions of four or six inches in length, reserving not fewer than two nor more than five eyes to form’ the future head of the tree. | <¢ Scions should be cut several weeks before the season for grafting arrives; the reason is that grafting may most successfully be performed by allowing the stock to have some advantage over the graft in forwardness of vegetation. It is desirable that the sap of the stock should be in brisk motion at the time of grafting ; but by this time the buds of the scion, if left on the parent tree, would be equally advanced ; whereas, the scions being gathered early, the buds are kept back, and ready only to swell. out when placed on the stock. Scions of pears, plums, and cherries are collected in the end of January or beginning of February. They are kept at~full length, sunk in dry earth, and out of the reach of frost, till wanted, which is sometimes from the middle of February to the middle of March. SCI 533 Sco —_ Scions of apples are collected any time in February, and put on from the mid- dle to the end of March. The Scions are used as gathered.»>—Enc. Gard. It is quite true that the scion ‘‘ over- rideth the stock ;?"—a peach scion pro- duces its peculiar foliage, fruit, &c., though grafted upon a plum stock ; yet the stock influences the habits and pro- duce of the scion. Thus an apricot is said to have been worked on a green- gage plum, and a quince upon’ the au- _ tumn bergamot pear; the apricot be- came as juicy as the green-gage, and far more delicate ;.the quince was much more tender, and less gritty. See Stocks and Grafting. Fig. 151. SCISSORS of vari- ous sizes are required ~~ by the gardener. A pair with very sharp and pointed blades is required for cutting away the anthers ‘of flowers in hybrydiz- ing. Stouter pairs are used for removing flower stalks, when the petals have fallen from roses, &c. Slid- ing pruning scissors (Fig. 151) are em- ployed for cutting the shoots ofshrubs; they are powerful instru- ments for the pur- pose. See Shears. SCLEROTHAMNUS. microphyllus. Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. SCOLOPENDRIUM. Two species, ‘and many varieties. Ferns. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Seeds and di- vision.. Rock work... ‘SCOLYMUS. Three species. S. maculatus is a hardy annual, the others hardy herbaceous perennials. Division or seeds. Common soil. ~ SCOLYTUS. A genus of Beetles. S. hemorrhous, smal] Bark’ Beetle, at- tacks apple trees in May, making fur- rows into the inner bark and alburnum, where it deposits its eggs. The larve continue feeding there until late in au- tumn. : S. destructor, elm-destroying Scoly- tus, does not confine its ravages to the elm, but often attacks fruit trees, as the plum.—Kollar. SCOPARIA dulcis. Seeds. Sandy loam. SCOPOLIA carniolica. Hardy herb- aceous perennial. Division. Light dry soil: SCOPULA forficalis, Garden Pebble Moth, is thus accurately described by Mr. Curtis :—“ The perfect insect mea- sures rather more than an inch across, when its wings are expanded. The upper pair are hazel-coloured, with four stripes, two of which are distinct, and the other faint; the under wings as well as the body are whitish, and on the former, near the centre, there is a curved brown streak and another black on the margin. The first brood of caterpillars occurs in May, and the second in the autumn; and when very numerous they do considerable injury to cabbages and plantations of horse- radish. The caterpillar is eight or ten lines Jong, with the head of a light brown colour, and the body is yellowish green, with black longitudinal stripes. Almost the only method of destroying these caterpillars, is to hand-pick them, which, from their small size, will be very tedious; if, however, a mat or” piece of linen be laid under the infest- ed plants, they may be shaken into it, and thus a great number be collected in a short time.??—Gard. Chron. SCORPION. Genista scorpius. SCORPION GRASS. Myosotis. SCORPION SENNA. Coronilla emerus. c SCORZONERA. Seventeen species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. S. villosa is a biennial. Seeds. Common soil. S. hispanica. Common Scorzonera. Though a perennial, yet, for general use, it should be treated as an annual. Sow annually in any open light spot of ground, the latter end of March or be- ginning of April, not earlier, lest the plants run to seed. Trench the ground, and with the bottom spit turn in a little dung; sow in shallow drills, twelve inches asunder, raking the mould even- ly over them half an inch deep. The plants will rise in two or three weeks. When they are a little advanced in srowth, let them be thinned and clean- en from weeds by hoeing. Thin the - plants to ten ‘inches? distance; they will grow freely, and their roots cone | tinue increasing in size till September, when they will have acquired their full Stove annual: sco 534 SCR ——— size, discoverable by their leaves be- ginning to decay. The roots may either remain in the ground, to be drawn as wanted, or taken wholly up in autumn when their leaves decay, and preserved in sand all winter. To save seed.—Let some of the plants remain where sown, when they will shoot up in the spring, and produce plenty of seed inautumn.— Abercrombie. SCOTCH ASPHODEL. To; fieldia alpina. SCOTCH i: i ae Cytisus al- pinus. SCOTTIA. Three species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Young: cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. SCREEN. All cooling is occasioned either by the heat being conducted from a body by a colder, which is in contact with it, or by radiating from the body cooled, though circumstances accelerate or retard the radiation; and whatever checks the radiation of heat from a body is a screen, and keeps it warmer. For example, a thermometer, placed upon a grass plot, exposed to a clear sky, fell to 35°; but another thermo- meter, within a few yards of the pre- ceding, but with the radiation of the rays of heat from the grass checked by no other covering than a cambric pocket handkerchief, declined no Jower than 42°, No difference of result occurs whether the radiating surface be paral- lel or perpendicular to the horizon ; for when the mercury in a thermometer, hung against.an openly exposed wall, fell to 38°, another thermometer, against the same wall, but beneath a web of gauze stretched tightly, at a few inches distance, indicated a temperature of 43°. These results explain the beneficial operation of apparently such slight screens to our wall-fruit when in blos- som. A sheet of canvas or of netting prevents the direct radiation of heat from the wall; the cooling goes on more slowly, and is not reduced to that of the exterior air at night, before the return of day begins to re-elevate the external temperature. The colder the body surrounding another body, the more rapid the radia- tion from the latter; for it is a law of heat that it has a constant tendency to be diffused equally; and the greater the diversity of temperature between ‘times. two bodies in contact with each other, ‘the greater is the rapidity with which — the progress towards equilibrium goes on. This is one reason why a tempera- ture of 32°, with a brisk wind attending it, will injure plants to a far greater extent than a temperature many de- grees lower, with a still atmosphere ; but it is aided by the operation of ano- ther law of heat, viz., that aériform bo- dies convey it from a cooling body, as a wall or a tree, by an actual change in the situation of their own particles. That portion of the air which is nearest to the cooling body is expanded, and becoming specifically lighter, ascends, and is replaced by a colder portion. This, in its, turn, becomes heated and dilated, and gives place to another colder portion. And thus the process goes on, until the cooling body is re- duced to the same temperature as the air. In a still atmosphere, this goes on’ slowly; the air in contact with the wall and tree rises very gradually as it imbibes warmth from them ; but if there be a brisk wind, a constant current of air at the lowest temperature then oc- curring, is brought in constant contact with them, and the cooling is rapid, in accordance with the law of equilibrium just noticed. A shelter of netting, or even the sprays of evergreens, are of the greatest service in preventing the sweeping contact of cold air at such Snow is a good shelter; it pre- vents heat radiating from plants; pro- tects them from the chilling blasts ; and is one of the worst conductors of heat. I have never known the surface of the earth, below a covering of snow, colder ~ than 32°, even when the temperature of the air above has been 28°. © Strange as it may appear, yet it is nevertheless true, that a screen is more beneficial in preserving the tempera- ture of trees, when from three to six inches from them, than when in)imme- diate contact with ‘their surfaces. When a woollen net was suspended four in- ches from the wall on whieh a_ peach tree was trained, the thermometer fel} very slowly, and the lowest degree it reached was 38°; when the same sereen was twelve inches off, it fell to 34°; and when drawn tightly over the tree, it barely kept above 32°, the tempera- ture of the exterior air. When at twelve inches from the wall, it permit- SCR 535 SCcU ——o&—- ted the too free circulation of the air; and when in immediate contact with the polished bark of the peach, perhaps another law of cooling came into ope- ration. - The law is, that polished sur- faces radiate heat slowest. Thus, if two glass bottles, equal in size and thickness. of glass, and of the same shape, be filled with warm water, and one of the bottles be covered with an envelope of fine muslin, this bottle will give out heat to the surrounding air with much greater rapidity, than the other bottle; so that, in a given time, the bottle with the envelope will be ‘found colder than the one which has no covering. Screens, such as the preceding, or the slighter agents, sprays of ever- greens, placed before the branches of wall-trees or other plants, as already noticed, operate beneficially in another way, checking the rapid passage of the air over them: such passage is detri- mental in proportion to its rapidity, for the more rapid it is, the greater is the amount of evaporation, and, conse- quently, of cold produced. Mr. Daniell says, that ‘‘a surface which exhales one hundred parts of moisture when the air is calm, exhales one hundred and twenty-five parts when exposed to ‘a moderate. breeze, and one hundred _ and fifty parts when the wind is high.’? During all high winds, but especially } -when blowing from points varying be- tween the east.and the south, for they are the driest in this country, the gar- dener will always find shelter is bene- ficial to his plants, whether in blossom, or with fruit in its first stages of growth, for these winds cause an evaporation - much exceeding in amount the supply of moisture afforded by the roots. In March, such shelters are much required, for the winds are then violent and dry even to a proverb; but it is during the days of its successor, April, that sets in the only periodical wind known in this island. It comes inter- mittingly, and with a variable force from points ranging from east to north- east, and is one of the most blight- ing winds we have. It continues until about the end of the second week in May, though often until its close; and it is a good plan to have the tree, dur- ing the whole period, by day as_well as by night, protected. This periodical wind is occasioned, probably, by Swe- den and Norway remaining covered with snow, whilst England is some 20°, or more, warmer; and an upper cur- rent of warm air is consequently flow- ing hence to those countries, whilst a cold under current is rushing hither to supply its place. This wind, and its consequent cold weather, is 80 regular in its appearance, that in Hampshire, and some other parts of England, the peasantry speak of it as the black thorn winter, that bush being in blossom dur- ing a part of its continuance.—Princ. of Gard. Not only are screens required for out-door plants, but for those. under glass; and Mr. Paxton is quite right in saying, that ‘* one of the things which should be constantly borne in mind, and more especially in the forcing sea- son, is the most effectual means of keep- ing up the requisite temperature in the hot-houses with least fuel; and that, in all cases where practicable, the use of external coverings, if properly used, will render strong fires in a great mea- sure unnecessary. Some coverings are used at Chatsworth constantly at night, which makes from ten to fifteen degrees difference in the temperatures of the houses where they are applied, and to maintain which, without them, would consume three times the quantity of fuel now necessary.’’—Gard. Chron. For wall-trees, now that glass is be- come so much cheaper, the best of all screens may be employed, viz., glazed frames, of a length extending from the coping of the wall, to the surface of the soil, about two feet from the stems of the trees. SCREW PINE. Pandanus. SCREW TREE. Helicteres. SCROPHULARIA. Figwort. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. S. vernalis, a-biennial. Seeds. Light soil, and a moist situation. SCRUBBY OAK. Lophiraafricana. SCURVY GRASS. | Cochlearia offici- nalis. ** This vegetable grows sponta- neously on the sea shores of England, and is also found in the interior. It is used like the Cress, and occasionally mixed with corn salad. “« Sow in autumn and manage as di- rected for winter spinach; it is used during the winter and spring.’’—R. Reg. To obtain Seed.—A few plants must be left ungathered from in the spring. They will run up to flower about May, SCcU and perfect their seed in the course of the two following months. SCUTELLARIA. Twenty-seven species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. S. humilis is a half-hardy. 8S. havenen- sis,a stove herbaceous perennial. Seeds and division. Common soil. The sbrub- by species increase by young cuttings. SCYPHANTHUS grandiflorus and elegans. Hardy twining annuals. Seeds. Sandy loam. SCYTHE. This mowing implement being confined, in the garden, to cut- ting the fine short grass of lawns, re- quires to be much sharper than that used in cutting the coarser grasses, which stand up more firmly to the scythe. It is also necessary that the mowers should not score the grass, that is, should not leave the mark of each stroke of the scythe, which has a very unsightly appearance; to prevent which, have the scythe laid out rather wider, an inch or two beyond heel and toe, especially for very short grass; and in mowing, keep the point rather out, and do not draw that part too fast toward, gathering the grass neatly to the left in a range; and having mowed to the end of the swaith, mow it lightly back again, to trim off all scores, and other irregu- larities, unavoidably left the first time. —Abercrombie. SEA-BUCKTHORN Hippophe. SEAFORTHIA elegans. Stove palm. Seed. Turfy Joam and sand. SEA-HEATH. Frankenia. SEA-HOLLY. Eryngium. SEA-KALE. Crambe Maritima. Soil and Situation.—A light mode- rately rich soil, on a dry substratum, suits it best, though in any dry soil it will succeed. A bed may be composed for it of one-half drift sand, one-third rich loam, and one-third small gravel, road stuff or coal-ashes; if the loam is poor, a little well-rotted dung or de- cayed leaves being added. The soil must be deep, so that the roots can penetrate without being immersed in water, which invariably causes their decay. The depth should not be less than two feet and a half; and if not so naturally, worked to it by trenching. If at all tenacious, this opportunity may be taken to mix with it drift or sea-sand, so as to reduce it to a friable texture. If wet it must be drained, so that water never shall stand within three feet of the surface. If poor, well putrefied 536 ————— SEA dung must be added; but decayed leaves are preferable, and sea-weed still more so. Common salt is a very beneficial application, either applied dry, in the spring, in the proportion of twenty or thirty bushels per acre, or by occcasional waterings, with a solution, containing four ounces in the gallon, round every stool during the spring. The situation cannot be too open and free from trees. Propagation is both from seed and slips of the root. The first is the best mode; for, although from slips it may be obtained with greater certainty, yet the plants arising from seed are the strongest and longest lived. Sow from October to the commencement of April; but the best time for inserting it is during January or February. Leave the plants where raised ; and, to guard against failure, insert the seed in patch- es of ‘six or twelve seeds, each six inches apart, and the patches two feet asunder. Ifintended for transplanting, the seed may be sown in drills twelve inches asunder; in either case it must not be buried more than two inches be- low the surface ; and it is a good prac- tice, previous to inserting it, to bruise the outer coat of the seed, without in- juring its vegetating power, as by this treatment the germination is accele- rated. The plants will in general make their appearance in four or five months, never sooner than six weeks; but, on the other hand, the seed will sometimes remain twelve months be- fore it vegetates. The best time for increasing it by slipsisin March. Rooted suckers may be detached from established plants ; or their roots, which have attained the thickness of the third finger, be cut into lengths, each having at least two eyes. The cuttings must be inserted in an up- right position, two or three inches be- neath the surface. It is best to plant two together, to obviate the danger of failure, at two feet apart, to remain. Some persons, from a desire to save a year, recommend yearling plants to be obtained and inserted in February or March; but as the shoots ought not to | be cut for use the first season after planting, the object is not attained, for seedlings. may be cut from the second year. i The beds should be laid out three feet wide, and a two feet alley between ' over the surface. SEA 537 SEA —_@——_— every two, in preference to the plan sometimes recommended of planting _three rows in beds seven feet wide. If the months of June and July prove dry, the beds should be plentifully watered. The seedlings require’ no other atten- tion, during the first summer, than to be kept free from weeds, and to be thin- ned to five or six in each patch. When their leaves have decayed and are clear- ed away, about November, they must be earthed over an inch or two with dry mould from the alleys, and over this about six inches depth of long litter spread. In the following spring the litter is to be raked off, and a little of the most rotten dug into the alleys. When the plants have perfectly made their appearance they must be thinned, leaving the strongest plant, or, as Mr. Maher recommends, the three strong- est, at each patch, those removed being transplanted at similar distances if re- quired; but it must be remarked, that those transplanted never attain so fine a growth, or are so Jong lived. In the second winter the earthing must be in- creased to five or six inches deep over the crowns, and the covering of litter’ performed as before. In the third spring, the litter being removed, and some’ dug into the alleys, as before, about an inch depth of drift sand or coal-ashes must be spread regularly The sprouts may now be bleached and cut for use ; for, if this is commenced earlier, the stools are rendered much less productive and much shorter lived. _In November, or as soon as the leaves are decayed, the - beds being cleared of them, the coating of sand or ashes removed, and gently Stirred. with the asparagus-fork, they must be covered with a mixture of three parts earth from the alleys, and one part of thoroughly decayed leaves, to the depth of three or four inches. The major part of this is to be removed in the following spring, the beds forked, and the covering of sand renewed, this routine of cultivation continuing during the existence of the beds. © The above course is the one also pur- sued if the plants are raised from off- sets or cuttings, as it is by. much the best practice not to commence cutting until they are two years old. Blanching may commence the second spring after sowing. The most simple mode is that originally adopted, namely, to cover over each stool sand or ashes to the depth of about a foot; the shoots, in their passage through it, being ex- cluded from the light, are effectually bleached.’ Dry clean straw may be scattered loosely over the plants to effect the same purpose. But pots are by much to be preferred to any of these coverings. Common flower-pots, of large dimensions, may be employed, care being taken to stop the hole at. the bottom with a piece of tile and clay, so as to exclude every ray of light; but those suggested by Mr. Maher are ge- Fig. 152. nerally adopted. They are of earthen- ware, twelve or eighteen inches in diameter, and twelve high. Mr. Sabine improved upon them by making the top moveable, which prevents the trouble arising from the escape of the spread- ing shoots, or the entire removal of the dung atthe time of forcing. Frames of wicker are sometimes employed, being covered with mats more perfectly to exclude the light. See Rhubarb. Previously to covering the stools with the pots, &c., the manure Jaid on in the winter must be removed ; and the ope- ration should commence at the close of February, or at least a month before the shoots usually appear, as the shel- ter of the pots assists materially in bringing them forward. In four or six weeks after covering the plants should be examined, and as soon as they ap- pear three or four inches high, they may be cut; for if none are taken until they attain a fuller growth, the crop. comes in too much at. once. In order to prolong the season of production, Mr. Barton recommends plants to be raised annually, so that every year a cutting may be had from a yearling crop, which come in much later, and consequently succeed in production the old established roots. The shoots should be cut whilst young and crisp, not exceeding five or six inches in height; the section to be made just ¥ SEA 538 SEA —_—_»—— within the ground, but not so as to in- jure the crown of the root. Slipping off the stalks is much preferable to cut- ting. The plants may be gathered from until the flower begins to form, ‘when all covering must be removed. If, when arrived at the state in which brocoli is usually cut, the flower is em- ployed as that vegetable, it will be found an excellent substitute. When the cutting ceases, all covering must be removed, and the plants be allowed to grow at liberty. To obtain Seed.—A stool, which te not been cut from, or even covered at all for blanching, must be allowed to run in spring. It flowers about June, and produces abundance of seed on every stem, which ripens about the close of July, or early in August. Forcing.—To force sea-kale, some established plants, at the end of Oc- tober or early in November, being trimmed as directed above at that sea- son, and the bed covered with a mixture of moderately sifted light earth, and sand or coal ashes, two or three inches deep, each stool must be covered with a pot, set down close, to keep out the steam of the dung; or, bricks or planks may be placed to the height of eight or ten inches on each side of the row to be forced, and covered with cross spars, having aspace of aboutan inch between them. The dung employed must be well tempered and mixed for three weeks before it is required, or for four, if mingled with leaves, otherwise the heat is violent, but transient. When thus prepared, each pot is covered ten inches thick all round, and eight inches at the top. The heat must be constant- ly observed; if it sinks below 50°, more hot dung must be applied; if above 60°, some of the covering should be removed. Unless the weather is very. severe, it is seldom necessary to renew the heat by fresh linings; when the thermometer indicates the necessity, a part only of the exhausted dung should be taken away, and the remainder mixed with that newly applied. In three or four weeks from being first covered, the shoots will be fit for cutting, and they will continue to produce at inter- vals for two or three months, or until the natural crops come in. To have a succession, some should be covered with mulch, or litter that is little else than straw; this, by sheltering the plants from cold, will cause them to be forwarder than the natural ground ones, though not so forward as those under the hot dung; and by this means it may be had in perfection from Christmas to Whitsuntide. ; It also may be forced in a hotaeds When the heat moderates, a little light mould being put on, three or four year old plants, which have been raised with as little injury as possible to the roots, are to he inserted close together, and covered with as much earth as is used for cucumbers. The glasses must be covered close with double matting to exclude the light, and additional cover- ing afforded during severe weather. Sea-kale, thus forced, will. be fit for cutting in about three weeks. Instead of frames and glasses, any construc- tion of boards and litter that will ex- clude the light, would undoubtedly answer~- as well. A common melon frame will contain as many asare capa- ble of being produced in two drills of twenty yards each, and with only one- third the quantity of dung. Tokeep up a regular succession until the natural ground crop arrives, two three-light frames will be sufficient for a large family; the first prepared about the beginning of November, and the second about the last week in December. Another mode is, on each side of a three-foot bed to dig a trench two feet deep, the side of it next the bed being perpendicular, but the outer side slop- ing, so as to make it eighteen inches wide at the bottom, but two feet and a half at the top. These trenches being filled- with fermenting dung, which of course may be renewed if ever found necessary, and frames put over the plants, the light is to be, completely excluded by boards, matting, &c. Unlike the generality of vegetables, the shoots of forced sea-kale are always more crisp and delicate than those pro- duced naturally. Those plants will not do for forcing a second time which have been forced in frames; consequently a small bed should be sown every year for this purpose, so that a succession of a plants may be annually had, they not - being used until three years old. Some-_ times a) plant will send up a flower- stalk; this must be immediately cut away, it will then be as productive as the others. But those plants which are forced by whelming dung over the pots, ——. ‘a SEA 539. SEN ——)——— are not much detrimented for the na- tural ground production of the succéed- ing year. When, therefore, they have done producing, all covering must be removed, and the ground dressed. SEA-LAVENDER. | Statice. SEASIDE GRAPE. Coccoloba. SEASIDE LAUREL. Xylophylla la- _tifolia. ‘SEATS require to be in unison with the portion of the pleasure-grounds in which they are placed. In shady re- tired spots, they may be made of the limbs of trees, (see Rustic,) but near the house, or among the parterres, where trimness is the prevailing characteristic, more art is desirable to be apparent in their construction. They may be made of wood, and so constructed as to shut up, so that the seat is never wet; and if painted annually they last for many years. Madeofiron, they are more light in appearance, and if painted yearly will notiron-mould dress- es which rest upon them. Being made of open work, the wet does not rest upon them, and they are soon dry even after heavy rains. The following (Figs. - “ 153, 154) are made by Messrs. pals King William Street, London. SEA-WEED. See Green Manure. SEBA. Four species. Green- houseannuals. Seeds. Peat and loam or common soil. SECAMONE. Three species. evergreen. twiners. Cuttings. loam. SECURIDACA. Twospecies. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. SECURIGERA coronilla. Hardy an- nual. Seeds. Common soil. Stove Sandy | Thirty species. SEDUM. Sixty-four species. Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials; with a few annuals and biennials. These lat- ter grow well on rock work, and in- crease by seeds. The green-house spe- cies increase by partly ripe cuttings; the rest by cuttings or division. Sandy loam, or loam and brick rubbish. A few are evergreen shrubs and creepers. SEED ROOM. All that has been said relative to the Fruit Room, is applica- ble to this: everything promotive of decay or germination is to be avoided ; and if one relative direction more than another requires to be urged upon the gardener, it is comprised in these words | —keep it as dry as possible: the room may be even hot, so that it is not damp. Mr. Forsyth says, that “‘a dry room, hot room, or something very nearly re- sembling a slow corn-kiln, is essentially necessary in every garden, not only for seeds, but also for all.other articles re- quiring drought, or liable to injury from damp, such as the nets and bunting for wall-trees and the like; garden-mats ; glazed lights in wet weather, or when washed previous to painting ; and last, though not the least necessary, the proper drying of pot-herbs, a process seldom, if ever properly done.’?—Gard. Chron. . In such a room should be a nest of very shallow drawers or trays, divided into compartments, each holding a tin box three inches in diameter, and on the lid of each a label, inscribed with the name of the seed. Such an ar- rangement not only saves the seed, but saves the gardener’s time, especially if | the seeds are arranged alphabetically {in the drawers. SELAGO. Eighteen species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam, peat and sand. wi _SELFHEAL. Prunella. SEMPERVIVUM. Fonsedesia Green-house evergreen shrubs, annuals, and biennials; and hardy and halfhardy herbaceous peren- nials. The green-house evergreens in- crease by partly ripened cuttings, and require a mixture of sandy loam and brick rubbish. The hardy kinds inerease by offsets, and grow on rocks or walls. The annuals and i increase by seed. SENACTA, evergreen shrubs. Light rich soil. Two species. Stove Ripened cuttings, v oa SEN 540 SEP pare SENECILLIS. Two species. Hardy | ander, sow. — Corn Salad, sow. — herbaceous perennials. Division. Light rich:soil. SENECIO. Fifty-eight species. Har- dy herbaceous perennials and annuals, and green-house evergreen shrubs. The Jatter increase by cuttings, and require alight rich soil. The hardy kinds in- crease by division, the annuals and biennials by seed.. Common soil suits both the last-named species. SENSITIVE FERN. Onoclea Sensi- bilis. SENSITIVE PLANT. Mimosa. There are several plants, however, be- sides the mimosa which give evidence of being sensitive. The Venus Fly Trap (Dionea muscipula) has jointed leaves, which are furnished on their edges with a row of strong prickles. Flies, attract- ed by honey which is secreted in glands on their surface, venture to alight upon them. No sooner do their Jegs touch these parts than the sides of the leaves spring up, and locking their rows of prickles together, squeeze the insects to death. The well-known sensitive plant (Mimosa sensitiva), shrinks from the slightest touch. Ovalis sensitiva and Smithia sensitiva are similarly irritable, as are the filaments of the stamens of the berberry. One of this sensitive tribe, Hedysarum gyrans, has a spontaneous motion; its leaves are frequently moving in various directions, without order or co-operation. When an insect inserts its proboscis between the converging anthers of a dog’s bane (Apocynum androssemifolium), they close with a power usually sufficient to detain the intruder until death. SEPTAS. ‘Two species. house herbaceous perennials. Peat, loam and sand. _ SEPTEMBER is a month of decay, yet much has to be done to the living. Green- Division. KITCHEN GARDEN. - . Angelica, sow.—Aromatic pot-herbs, finish gathering. — Artichokes, break down.—Balm, plant.— Beans, earth up, &c.,.e.— Borage, ‘sow ; thin advancing crops.—Burnet, plant.—Cabbages, sow, for autumn and spring plants; earth up advancing; (Red), are ready for pickling:—Cardoons, earth up. — Car- rots, advaneing, thin. — Flowers, sow for plants to preserve under glass dur- ing winter.—Ce/ery, earth up.—Chervil, sow. — Coleworts, plant out.— Cori- Cress (American), sow, b.; (Water), plant. — Dill, sow. — Earthing-up, at- tend to.—Endive, plant; attend to; blanch, &c.—Fennel, plant.—Finochio, earth up.—Herbary requires dressing, b.—Hoeing, attend to.—Hyssop, plant. —Jerusalem. Artichokes, take up as wanted, e.—Kidney Beans, earth up advancing, b.—Leeks, plant, b; attend to advancing.—Lettuces, sow for autumn and spring planting. — Mint, plant. — Mushroom-Beds, make ; Spawn, collect. — Nasturtium-berries, gather as they become fit. (Potato), take up for stor- ing.—Orach, sow.—Parsley, cut down. —Peas, hoe, &c.—Pennyroyal, plant. —Pot Marjoram, plant. — Radishes, sow, b.—Rhubarb, sow.—Sage, plant. —Savory, plant.—Seeds, gather as they ripen.—Small Salading,- sow.—Sorrel, plant.—Spinach, sow, b.—Tansy, plant. —Tarragon, plant.—Thyme, plant.— Turnips, sow, b.; hoe advancing. ORCHARD. Composts, prepare.—Dress bordevs by forking, so soon as fruit is gather- ed.—Gathering of Apples and Pears to store commence, e.—Grapes, bag, to protect from wasps, &c.—Layers and cuttings may still be inserted.—Leaves, be careful not to injure or remove from Wall Trees. — Nets, spread over fruit trees, to protect from birds.—Planta-- tions, intended, prepare ground for, by trenching, &¢.—Planting may be com- menced, e., in some kinds of Apricots, Peaches, &c.—Strawberries, plant in moist weather ; clean old beds; pot for forcing.—Stones of fruit save, to sow for stocks .—Vines, remove straggling useless shoots.—Wall-trees, generally, look over and train as required.— Wasps, entrap in bottles, &c. FLOWER GARDEN. ; Aconite (Winter), plant, e. — Ane- mones, plant best, e.; sow, b.—An- nuals (Hardy), sow, b.—Auriculas not shifted in August, now remove; water and shade; prepare awning to protect, in autumn and winter; sow, b.—Bulb- ous roots, plant for early blooming, e.; sow, b.—Carnation layers remove, b.— Chrysanthemums, plant cuttings, &c., b.—Dress borders -assiduously.—Edg- ings, trim; plant.—Evergreens, plant, make layers. — Fibrous-rooted peren- nials, propagate by slips, parting roots, 3. SER . 541 SET ng ; —_¢—- &c.—Fork over vacant compartments.— | ennials, annuals, and biennials. The Grass, mow and roll; sow, b.—Gravel/, weed and roll.— Guernsey Lilies, pot.— Heartsease, plant cuttings; trim old.— Hedges, clip, e.— Mignonette, sow in pots to shelter in frames.—Pipings of ’ Pinks; &c., plant out for blooming.— Polyanthuses, plant. — Ranunculuses, plant best, e.; sow, b.— Seedlings, plant out.— Seeds, gather as ripe.—Tvransplant perennials, e.—Tuberous rooted plants, transplant.—Twu7f, lay.— Water annuals and, other plants every day in dry weather. HOT-HOUSE. Air, admit freely every day.—Bark- beds, renew.— Bulbs, plant, b.—Com- posts, prepare.—Dress the plants regu- larly.—Earth, give where required.— Leaves, wash; remove decayed, &.— Pines, shift, if neglected before, b.; attend to bottom heat; water every third day.—Propagate by offsets, seeds, slips, and suckers.—Shifting neglected before, complete, b.—Succulents, re- place under glass.—Watering gene- rally is required two or three times weekly. GREEN-HOUSE. Air, give very freely to plants re- turned into house.—Camellias, bud.— Earth, give fresh. -— Geraniums and Myrtles planted in borders, return into pots, b.; cuttings, plant, b.—— Glass, Flues, §¢., repair, before the plants are moved in.—Oranges and Lemons, re- move into house, e.; thin fruit—Prune and dress as the plants are removed.— Roses, pot for forcing.—Seedlings and other young plants, if well rooted, transplant, b.—Succulents, remove into house, b.; shift into larger pots.— Suckers, layers, cuttings, &c., may be planted. — Tender plants, generally remove into house, e.—Water is not required so freely. SERAPIAS. Three species.. Stove orchids. Division. Light sandy soil. SERINGIA platyphylla. Green- house evergreen shrub. pipe = aM Sand, loam, and peat. SERISSA fetida. Groamsvanae ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand, © ‘ SERPICULA repens. herbaceous creeper. ‘Division. Com- mon soil. SERRATULA. eesiostint Twenty- nine species. Hardy herbaceous per- Green-house former, seeds or division; the latter, seeds only. Common soi] suits them all. SERRURIA. Thirty-four species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings, taken off at a joint. Light turfy loam, with a little sand. SERSALISIA sericea. green shrub. Cuttings. and sand. SERVICE. Pyrus Sorbus. There are three varieties. P. S.: maliformis, apple-shaped ; P. S. pyriformis, pear- — shaped; P. 8S. bacciformis, berry- shaped. Propagation.—By Grafting on the apple, medlar, and hawthorn. By Cuttings. See Apple. By Seed.—The berries ripen abund- antly in autumn, which is the proper time for sowing them when perfectly ripe. Sow them as soon after they are gathered as possible, selecting a spot of lightish ground, and dividing it into four-feet-wide beds, in which sow the berries in drills an inchdeep. Some of them will rise the following’ spring ; they, however, frequently remain tili the second spring before they come up; observing in either case, that in the spring following, when the seedlings are a year old, they should be planted out in nursery rows, to remain till they acquire a proper size for final trans- plantation at thirty feet apart. By Layers. — Having some of the trees.while young cut down near the ground, they will throw out lower shoots, which being layered in the common way in autumn and spring, will readily emit roots, and be fit to transplant in nursery rows in one year. Soil.—Clayey loam well drained suits it best. Culture.—They are best trained as dwarf standards or espaliers. See Medlar. Gather the fruit in autumn, and treat it like that of the medlar. SESBANIA. Twelvespecies. Stove annuals, biennials, or evergreen shrubs. The latter increase by cuttings; the for- mer by seeds. Loam and peat suits them all. SESUVIUM. Four species. Stove annuals and herbaceous perennials. Partly dried cuttings. Sandy loam and Stove ever- Loam, peat, eat. 4 SETHIA indica. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Turfy loam and peat. / SET 542 SHA ey SETS are the tubers, or portions of tubers, employed for propagating tube- rous-rooted plants. It may be accepted as a rule universally applicable to them, that a moderately-sized whole tuber is always to be preferred to a cutting of a tuber. The latter are invariably more subject to failure, but if employed, it is a good plan to roll them in gypsum powder. This checks the escape of their sap, and is friendly to vegetation. SEYMERIA. Twospecies. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Peaty soil. SHADING deserves more attention than it usually obtains, for there is not a plant when in blossom that is not pro- longed in beauty and vigour by being shaded from the midday sun. Nor should shading be attended to merely with regard to blooming plants; for they are benefited by it during all periods. of their growth. Every plant transpires at a rate great in proportion to the elevation of the temperature: the greater the transpiration the more abundant is the absorption of moisture ; _ and the moment the roots fail in afford- - ing a supply equivalent to the transpi- ration, the leaves flag, or become ex- hausted of moisture, and if this be repeated often, decay altogether.— Shades, properly managed, prevent this injurious exhaustion. Those used at Sion House deserve particular atten- tion, not only because they are appli- cable to hot-houses, pits, and hot-beds of every description, but because they may be rendered available in the cover- ing of fruit walls, to exclude the frost from the blossom, and the birds or flies from ripe fruit; and also in the cover- ing of flower beds, hay ricks, harvested corn, temporary structures for public assemblages, &c. : Fig. 155. ‘*The length of these rolls at Sion House is between fifty and sixty feet, but we have no doubt they might be made longer, since this depends on the diameter of the pole or rod, a, and the toughness of the timber employed, or its power to resisttorsion. On one end of this rod, and not on both, asis usual, a ratchet wheel, 8, is fixed, with a plate against it, c, so as to form a pulley groove between, d, to which a cord is fastened,and about three inches further on the rod is fixed a third iron wheel, about six inches in diameter, and half an inch thick, e. This last wheel runs in an iron groove, f, which extends along the end rafter or end wall of the roof to be covered. ‘¢ The canvas or netting being sewed together of a sufficient size to cover the roof, one side of it is nailed to a slip of wood placed against the back wall, that is, along the upper ends of the sashes; the other side is nailed to the rod, a. When the canvas is rolled up, it is held in its place under a coping, g, by a ratchet, h, and when it is let down, the cord,z, of the roll is loosened with one hand, and the ratchet cord, k, pulled with the other, when the canvas un- rolls with itsown weight. The process of pulling it up again needs not be de- scribed. The most valuable part of the plan is, that the roll of canvas, throughout its whole length, winds up and lets down without a single wrinkle, notwithstanding the pulley-wheel is only on one side. This is owing to the weight of the rod, and its equal diameter throughout. By this plan a house 100 or 150 feet long, might be covered with two rolls, the two pulleys working at the two ends; but if it were. thought necessary, the two rods might be joined in the middle, and by a little contrivance, the pulley and groove placed there, so as to work both of the rolls ‘at once from the inside of the house, from the back shed, or from the front..°—Gard. Mag. . SHALLOT. See Eschalot. SHANKING is the technical term for a gangrene which attacks the foot- stalks of grapes and the stems of cab- bages which have vegetated through the winter. The shanking of the grape appears to be occasioned by the tem- perature of the soil being too much below that in which the branches are vegetating ; and, consequently, the sup- i ‘ SHA 543 SHR eee, ply of sap to the grapes is too much diminished, and the parts which thus fail of support. immediately begin to decay; this is an effect always the con- sequence of a diminished supply of sap, | : apparent either in the leaves, flower, or fruit. The disease, like every other putrefaction, does not advance rapidly unless there be much moisture in the atmosphere. Shanking never appears in the grape if the roots of the vine are within the house. Shanking in the cabbage arises from a very different cause, viz., the freezing of the stalk of the cabbage just where it comes in con- tact with the soil. The best preventive is dressing the soil with salt, about five bushels per acre, late in the autumn. SHARP CEDAR. Acacia oxycedrus and Juniperus oxycedrus. SHEARS are of various kinds, dif- fering in form according to the purpose for which they are intended. Hedge- shears for-clipping hedges are the most common. uf Sliding Pruning Shears with a move- able centre so as to make a drawing cut when used as when the pruning knife is Sarlayen See Averruncator. The drawing shows the smaller size, used with one hand. See Scissors. The large size, which has wood handles, will, when em- ployed with both hands, cut through a bough full three inches in circum- ference, with the greatest ease...” Verge Shears are merely _the hedge shears set near- \ ly ata right angle on long \ handles for the conveni- ) ence of the gardener in } clipping the sides of box & edging, and the verge of grass plots. Turf Shears are set also at an angle, but in a different direction for cutting the tops of edgings, and grass growing in corners unapproachable by the scythe. SHEEP LAUREL. Kalmia angusti- Fig. 156. - folia. SHELLS. See aie Matters. SHELTER. See Screen. - SHEPHERDIA._ Two species. Hardy deciduous trees. Layers. Peat and loam, or common soil. SHEPHERD’S CLUB. Verbascum Thapsus. ° SHIFTINC. See eines and One- shift System. SHREDS for fastening ee to walls are best made of the list or selvage torn from black or blue cloth, and may be obtained of any tailor. The smallest possible number of shreds, and the nar- rowest consistent with strength should be employed; for wherever the shred envelops the branch, the wood beneath is never so well ripened as those parts exposed to the light and air, which are so essential] to enable the bark to as- similate and separate from the sap those secretions which are required for the next year’s growth. Shreds should always be long enough to permit the |ends'to be doubled over, so that the nail may pass through four thicknesses of the cloth, otherwise theylook ragged and are liable to tear away from the nail. If old shreds are re-used, they should be previously boiled for a few minutes to destroy any insect-eggs, or larve they may contain. SHRIVELLING of the berries of the grape in stoves arises from the roots of the vine not supplying a sufficiency of sap. This occurs if the roots are ina cold heavy soil, or are vegetating in an outside border, the> temperature of which is too low compared with that of the stove. In the first case, thorough draining and the incorporation of cal- careous rubbish; and in the second case, protection to the border and stem, will remove the evil. SHRUBBERY isa garden, or portion of a garden, devoted to the cultivation of shrubs. It is not necessary, as Mr. Glenny observes, ‘‘ That there should be any flowers or borders to constitute a shrubbery, but there should be great | taste in forming clumps, and grouping the various foliages and styles of growth. The groundwork in such a garden con- sists of gravel walks andlawn. If flow- ers be intermixed, or, which is very generally adopted, there bea space left all round the clumps to grow flowers in, it becomes a dressed or pleasure ground, rather than a shrubbery.— Though any part of a. ground in which shrubs form the principal feature, is | still called a shrubbery.— Gard. and Prac. Flor. SHRUBS are trees ofa dwarf growth, SHEPHERD'S BEARD. -drnepogon. not exceeding in height twelve or fif- s SHU 544 SLI —— teen feet, unless they are climbers, and | dicaulis a perennial. Seeds. Common having, if permitted, branches and fo-| soil. Sig dh liage clothing the entire length of their! SINNINGIA.. Six species. Stove stems. evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and SHUTERIA bicolor. Stove ever-|loam. . green twiner. Seeds. Rich lightloam.| SIPHOCAMPHYLUS.- Four SHUTTLECOCK. Peripetera punicea. SIBBALDIA. Four species and some varieties. Hardy herbaceous pe- rennials, or evergreen trailers. Divi- sion. Loam, peat and sand. SIBERIAN CRAB. Pyrus pruni- folia. SIBERIAN PEA TREE. Cara- gana, - SIBTHORPIA europea. Hardy herbaceous creeper. Division. Peaty soil, and a moist situation. SIDA. Sixteen species. Hardy an- nuals, biennials, and herbacecus pe- rennials;. and stove evergreen shrubs. Seeds. Rich soil. The shrubby kinds are also increased by cuttings. SIDERITIS. Eighteen species. Hardy annuals and herbaceous peren- nials, and hardy, half-hardy and green- house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings, seeds, and division. Dry sand or chalk. SIDERODENDRON iriflorum. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Loam, eat, and sand. SIDESADDLE FLOWER. cenia. SIEGESBECKIA. Six species. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. SIEVE. See Measures. SIEVERSIA. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Seeds or divi- sion. Light soil. SILENE. Catch Fly. One hundred and fifty-one species. Chiefly hardy annuals, biennials, and herbaceous pe- rennials. Seeds. Light rich soil. The shrubby kinds increase by young cut- tings also. A few are green-house bi- ennials. SILK COTTON TREE. Bombac. SILK TREE. Acacia Julibrissin. SELPHIUM. Threespecies. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Com- mon soil.- ; SILVER TREE. Leucadendron se- riceum. SIMABA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Turfy loam and peat. - . SINAPIS. Mustard. Six species. Chifly hardy annuals. S. frutescens is a green-house evergreen shrub. -S. me- Sarra- species. Stove and hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Light sandy soil. SIREX gigas. This fly pierces the fir, and other growing timber, deposit- ing its eggs in the alburnum. M. Kol- lar says that :— ‘¢In the seventh week after the eggs are laid, the maggot has attained its full size, and then generally buries it- self six inches deep in the wood, where it is transformed in a cayity into a pupa, covered with a thin transparent skin. It remains in this state a long time ; and examples are given of the perfect insect only making ‘its appearance when the wood has been cut up for useful pur- poses.’? SIR JOSEPH BANKS? Araucaria imbricata. SISYMBRIUM millefolium. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light soil. SISYRINCHIUM. Twenty-seven species. Hardy, halfhardy, green- house and stove herbaceous perennials. Seed, or offsets. Light soil. SIUM. Two species. Hardy herb- aceous perennials. Division or seeds. PINE. Moist soil. SKIP-JACK. See Elater. SKIRRET. Siam Sisarum. Propagation.— By Seed.—Sow at the end of March, or early in April, in drills one inch deep, and twelve inches apart. The seedlings will be up in five weeks. Weed and thin to twelve inches apart. In autumn, they will be fit for use like parsneps. ~ By Offsets.—Old roots throw off these in the spring, when they may be slip- ped off, and planted in rows a foot apart each way. Soil.—A light loam is Ye trenched, with a little manure dug in with the bottom spit. To save Seed, let a few of the old roots run up in spring; they will flower in July, and ripen their seed in the au- tumn. SKULL-CAP. Seutellaria. - SLIPPER PLANT. Pedilanthes. SLIPPER WORT. See Calceolaria. SLIPS are employed for increasing the number of an established variety or _ slipped quite to the bottom, into sepa- SLO 545 SNA ——} species. In the woody kinds, the young shoots are slipped off from the sides of the branches, &c., with the thumb and finger, instead of cutting them off with a knife, but is more commonly practised to the lower ligneous plants, such as sage, southernwood, rosemary, rue, and lavender. The best season of the year for effecting the work is generally in spring and beginning of summer, though many sorts will grow if planted at al- most any time of the year. Select the young shoots, chiefly of but one year’s growth, and in many sorts the shoots of the year will grow the most readily, evenif planted the summer they are produced, especially the hard wooded kinds; but in the more | soft wooded plants, the slips will also often readily grow when a year or two old, being careful always to choose the most robust shoots, situated on the out- ward part of the plants, from three to gix, or eight, or ten inches long, slip- ping them off close to the branches. Clear off the lower leaves, then plant them two parts in the ground, giving occasional shade and water, if in sum-’ mer, till properly rooted; and towards autumn transplant them where they are to remain. Many shrubby plants growing into large branches from the root, such as roses, spicas, and raspberries, may be rate plants, each furnished with roots, and may be planted either in nursery rows, or at once where they are to re main. ' Herbaceous plants may be slipped into many separate plants, and it is effected by slipping off the increased suckers, or offsets of the root; some sorts, by the offsets from the-sides of the heads of the plants; and some few sorts by slips of their stocks or branches. | Slipping should generally be per- formed in the spring, or early part of! autumn, which may be effected either | by slipping the .outside offsets with | roots, as the piants stand in the ground, or, to perform it more effectually, you may take the whole plants up, and slip them into several separate parts, each _ slip being furnished also with -roots, planting them, if small, in nursery rows a year, to gain strength; or such as are strong, may be planted at once in the| borders, &¢«.—Abercrombie. ~SLOANEA. Twospecies. Stove ever- 3d - green trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. ; SLOE TREE. Prunus spinosa. SLUGS are of many species, and the smaller are much more injurious to the gardener. than those of'a larger size, because they are much less discernible, and their ravages being more gradual, are not at once detected. They are effectually destroyed by either salt or lime; and to secure its contact with their bodies, it is best first to water the soil where they harbour with lime water, in the evening, when they are coming out to feed, sprinkling the sur- face also with dry lime; and at the end of a week, applying a surface dressing. of salt, at the rate of five bushels per acre. If cabbage leaves are spread upon the surface of land infested by slugs, they will resort to their under sides, and thus they may be trapped ; but lime and salt are most efficacious. Lime-water may be poured over wall- trees infested with them, and they may be syringed with it as well as~ with water in which gas liquor has been mixed, about half a pint to a gallon. If lime be sprinkled along the top, and at the base of the wall, renewing it weekly, the slugs cannot get to the trees. SMALL CARDAMOM. Amomum cardamomum. SMALL LUPINE. Lupinus nanus. SMALL MONARDA. Pycnanthe- mum monardella. SMALL PALM. Sabhal Palmetto. SMALL PEPPERMINT. Thymus Piperella. pia! SMEATHMANNIA levigata. Stove evergreen shrub. Half-ripened cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. SMILACINA. Nine species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Light soil. SMITHIA. Three species. Stove trailing annuals. Seeds. Peat, sand, and loam. ; SNAILS. See Slugs. . These marauders are said to be very fond of bran, and that they are readily trapped if this be put in heaps under flower pots, with one side propped up to admit them. The common garden snail, Helix hortensis, is thus noticed by Mr. Curtis :— ¥ <‘ Snails are said to be hermaphro- dites, and, consequently, they are all capable of laying eggs; and there have SNA 546 Sol —o— been found eighty in one heap. ‘They are globular, whitish, shining, and not larger than swan- -shot. If kept in a damp. place, they readily hatch, at once- becoming little, thin, transparent, and nearly colourless shells. In ashort time, they increase to twice the size, even when they have had nothing to feed upon. They are then of a dark, ochreous colour, with three imperfect rings, composed of brownish dots and streaks, and a transverse line of the ’ same colour next the pale lip or mar- gin; and these spots seem to vary as the animal withdraws or extends itself, owing to the dark tints shining through the semi-transparent shell. As the snail grows, it has the faculty of enlarging the shell, from its own se- cretions ; and, when full grown, it is as large as a small plum. It is convo- luted obliquely, striated of an ochreous colour, variegated with pitchy spots, giving it a marbled appearance, and forming two or three transverse bands; the lip is ochreous, the margin slightly reflexed, the under side is smooth and white, with a pinkish tint. ‘¢ There are various ways of reducing the numbers of this pest—the simplest is, by searching amongst the leaves of wall-fruit in April, when the snails first leave their winter quarters, to satisfy their long abstinence, and they con- tinue feeding until August or hil ber. *¢ To protect seedling phasis. a thick dusting of lime and soot round the stem will keep the snails away in dry weather. <‘In August, the eggs may be found at the roots of pot-herbs, in the cavities of muck heaps, at the rotten foot of paling, &c. These should be diligently sought for and destroyed; for they nearly all will hatch. c ‘¢ Salt and urine are destructive to snails; but it is difficult to apply either to them with much advantage. Lime, soot, and wood ashes are excellent checks; but the first loses its efficacy as soon as it becomes wet, and even the dews of the evening will frequently exhaust its caustic properties. Cabbage Jeaves are not an invariable decoy for the old snails: young 2 |Difference between temperature “=| of room and external air. 5 mg | 5° | 10°] 15°] 20°) 25°) 30° 10 | 116} 164) 200} 235) 260) 284 15 | 142) 202) 245) 284) 318) 348 20 | 164) 232) 285) 330) 368) 404 25 | 184) 260] 318] 368) 410) 450 30 | 201) 284) 347| 403) 450) 493 35 | 218} 306) 376) 436) 486) 521 40 | 235] 329) 403) 465) 518) 570 45 | 248) 348) 427| 493) 551) 605 50 | 260) 367) 450] 518) 579) 635 The foregoing table shows the dis- charge, through a ventilator of any height, and for any difference of tempe- rature. Thus, suppose the height of the ventilator from the floor of the room to the extreme point of discharge to be thirty feet, and the difference between the temperature of the room and of the external air to be 15°, then the dis- charge through a ventilator one foot square, will be 347 cubic feet per mi- nute. If the height be forty feet, and the difference of temperature 20°, then the discharge will be 465 cubic feet per minute. . Bark or Moist Stove-—Mr. Loudon gives the following design and descrip- tion of a moist stove, warmed on the old plan of deriving heat by the com- bined agency of bark and flues. In- stead of a stage in the centre it has a pit, which may be from two and a half to four feet deep, according ‘as bark or leaves are to be used, the latter mate- rial requiring the greatest depth. It is Fig. 160. wall: but planks of stone, or plates of slate or cast-iron, are to be preferred. The roof, when necessary, may be sup- ported by iron columns from the middle of the pit, a. ‘¢ Shelves may be placed against the back wall, 6; and occasionally a nar- row-leaved creeper run up the roof, c. We may add, that houses of this de- scription are generally placed east and west against walls,.on account of the shelter thereby obtained during winter, when a high degree of heat is kept up within, while the cold is excessive with- out.°—Enc. of Gard. But the tank system is far superior to the foregoing; and the following de- tail, given by the Rev. John Huyshe, is so full of information upon the point, that I extract it entire from the Gar- dener’s Chronicle:— Fig, 161. WGN NS SSS i Y EEE) : j j — NZ. Z VLE “4 is the boiler, its top level with the floor of the house, the fireplace being in a back shed. The boiler is small and conical; B 1 and B 2 are the tanks; c is a trap-door opening into the tank, to fill the house with steam at pleasure. The arrows indicate the course of the water through the tanks and pipes. The two pipes, though drawn side by side, are really one above the other; the return pipe being, of course, the lower. Above these pipes is a stone shelf. Tank B 1 is made of oak; the other, B 2, of elm. The wood of each is two inches and a half in thickness; and they stand on oak blocks, three inches thick, to raise them from the floor. This tends to prevent their decay, and promotes a freer circulation of hot air. The bot- tom boards are placed the lengthway STO 565 STO —__>——- of the tank. The bottom, as well as the sides of the tanks, are bolted to- gether by iron bars, five-eighths of an inch in thickness, passed through the wood, and screwed up as tightly as possible. Each tank is divided by an inch and a half elm board, and is co- vered with common roofing-slates — those that are generally called ‘ Prin- cesses,’ twenty-four inches long and fourteen wide; the edges not cut square, but used just as purchased, and the joints stopped merely with wetted clay: there is no fear of too much steam escaping into the house. ‘* As the divisions of tank B were fifteen inches wide, a small strip of oak is nailed on the inside of the tank, of sufficient thickness to allow the slates, which were fourteen inches wide, to reach across. Round the edges of the tanks is an inch board, eleven inches deep; and the plunging material is fine sand. The slates carry the weight of this sand, though eleven inches deep, with ease, not one of them having cracked. “Ina ee SSE part of tank 8 1, rich mould is put instead of the sand, in which pines are planted without any pots, after the French mode. The tank holds twenty-two hogsheads; and the boiler, though a small one, is fully able to heat this quantity. The water, heat- ed to 114° or 115° of Fahrenheit, is high enough to keep the house at a temperature of 70° at night; and a mo- derate fire, kept up for five or six hours b — %y a |= QW 4 | in the twenty-four, is abundantly suffi- cient.”’—Gard. Chron. Dry Stove.—Formerly this was heat- ed by flues only, a stage for plants oc- cupying the place of the bark-pit in the moist stove. But modern science has suggested the far better mode of heat- ing by either steam or hot water. Of these two the latter is by far the most preferable. The following is the plan adopted at Elcot; and has never been much improved :— ‘¢ Brick flues are subject, from their numerous joints and the mortar crack- ing, to give out at times a sulphureous gas, which is injurious to plants; and even with two fireplaces in a house forty or fifty feet long, it is impossible to keep up an equal temperature in the whole length. The houses get over- heated in the neighbourhood of the - fireplace; and it is difficult to maintain a proper warmth at the extremities of the flues. ‘¢ Steam may do very well ona large scale, and where there is constant at- tention to the fire, both day and night; but the objections are, the great ex- pense of a steam-boiler and the appa- ratus belonging to it, the frequent repairs that are required, and the. necessary attention to the fire, which is as great upon asmal] scale as upon a large one. Besides this, there is a greater risk of explosion in a hot-house steam-boiler than in that of a steam- engine; for steam-engines generally have persons properly instructed to . 162. VELL STO 566 AS i | ! STO a manage them; but gardeners, or their assistants, cannot be so competent. ‘©The heating with hot water has none of the objections I have men- tioned as belonging to flues and steam. The apparatus is simple, and not liable to get out of order. The boiler has only a loose wooden cover, and no safety-valves are required. The fuel consumed is very moderate, and when once the water is heated, very little at- tention is wanted; for it retains its heat for many hours after the fire has gone out. ‘+—- root in small pots sunk in the earth; as soon as they are well rooted, pkant them in their beds.?>—Gard. Chron. <¢ The seeds of the true Alpine straw- berry may be obtained from the Paris seedsmen. The seeds should be sown in a bed of light rich soil, or in pans, and the plants afterwards planted where they are to remain for fruiting, the soil being trenched, and well mixed” with rotten dung. You may insure a more abundant crop late in the season by cutting off the blossoms that appear previously to June.?’—Gard. Chron. Pianting.—The best period for mak- ing strawberry beds is from the close of July until the middle of October—the earlier the better—but this must be con- trolled by the rooting of the runners. If the planting be deferred until spring, they never succeed so well, and the produce that year is very small. Show- ery weather is the best for planting, and the less the roots are disturbed the bet- ter, which is the chief reason why in- ducing the runners to root in small pots is beneficial; they can be turned out of these without any injury to the roots. Myatt’s pines are more difficult to grow fruitfully than other varieties, but Mr. Mearns says they will not fail if the following precautions are adopt- ed 2-— ‘< Take off the first runner plants as soon as they have rooted: the weather being showery is the more suitable for transplanting. Geta piece of well-ex- posed rich ground ready for their recep- tion, according to the quantity desired, and let it be divided into four-feet beds. Plant them about four inches apart; water them, and shade them for a few days if the sun should be powerful, and keep them clear from weeds. Get a piece of ground prepared for their final transplanting, either in autumn or the following spring, by trenehing and ma- nuring it. Plant them eighteen inches row from row, and nine inches in the row; and if any blossoms appear the first season pinch them off, and keep them free from weeds; but it is not necessary to divest them of their run- ners until the following spring, when the beds are to be cleaned, and all runners cut off; but the soil should by no means be stirred between them any further than with a Dutch hoe, to loosen the surface lightly, and without destroying more of the surface-roots |than can possibly be avoided, as they are of great importance towards the success of the crop. Before the Jeaves cover too much-of the surface, hoe gently amongst them to destroy all weeds, and afterwards cover the sur- face with clean straw. Take the first produced runners from them, and plant them in a nurséry bed asin the previous season ; and when the fruit is all ga- thered, destroy the old plants, and the ~ ground will be, then ready for cauli- flowers, or any other crop required, to be put out at that time. Myatt’s pine will do little good by remaining a third season upon the same ground, however well manured; and this is generally applicable to hautboys, the Elton pine, Downton, and in fact to all strawbher- ries. »—Gard. Chron. Beds.—‘‘ Never have more than thet rows ina bed. Let them be eighteen inches apart, and the plants twelve inches apart in the rows; or two feet by eighteen inches, according to the richness of the soil, growth of the variety. The pines re- quire more room than the scarlets. “© Strawberries generally, but espe- cially Myatt’s pine, succeed best upon a bank facing the south-west. ‘* The old Hautboy strawberry bears the male and female flowers on differ- ent roots. The mode of planting is this: mark the male plant, the sterile, and plant the lines in quincunx thus— Me aR ee the middle roots marked X to be the male plants, and the others the female. If this rule is observed, you will never fail to have abundance of fruit. The only time to mark the males is when they are in blossom; and every gar-. dener should know them, and keep them apart in his nursery, to take young ones from.?”—Gard. Chron. - Dr. Lindley has these justly discri- minating observations on the frequent renewal of the beds :— " ‘‘ With regard to the opinion that a fresh plantation of strawberries should be made every year, to be destroyed after having once born fruit, and that the finest crops can only be obtained by this method, there are some doubts. Mr. Keene, the fortunate raiser of the seedling which bears his name, and an extensive cultivator, had a tolerable crop the first year, an excellent one the » and vigorous ° STR 569 STR ——- -—-— second, and after the third year he .de- stroyed the:plantation. Those called Pine Strawberries, such as the Old Pine, Keene’s Seedling, Elton, &c., will bear well in thg same situation for many years, if ie a managed. ‘* That scarlets are best when the plantations are frequently renewed, is generally admitted ; and there are some large varieties which appear to have more or less of the Chili in their con- stitution, as Myatt’s Seedlings, which require that runners be early establish- ed, for bearing in the following season, as the old plants are apt to die off. As fruit can be obtained earlier in the sea- son from plants that have not previously. borne, it is advisable to renew some portion every year; but the propriety of annually destroying the whole, de- pends very much on circumstances, and therefore the method cannot be recom- mended except in particular cases.””— Gard. Chron. The surface of the soil should be co- vered with straw, or the mowings of grass-plots, during the bearing season, to preserve moisture to the roots of the plants, and to keep the fruit from being dirt-splashed. | To promote an early produce of fruit, it is also suggested by Mr. G. L. Smartt, of Enfield,—that “‘ there should be fixed on each side of the rows of strawber- ries, just before they come into blossom, feather-edged boards, at an angle of 50° or 55°. . This may be effected by nail- ing two narrow slips of wood to each board, and pushing them into the ground. The boards should be painted black. This plan makes two or three weeks difference in the ripening of the fruit; but glass or an oiled paper frame being placed on the top, makes a greater dif- ference still, and prevents any of the fruit from being trod upon, or eaten by vermin. This plan at first sight may appear to be an expensive one, but it is not so; any old boards will answer the purpose. I have bought old feather- edged boards at one half-penny per foot ; and as they are only used in sum- mer, they last for many years. The expense is saved in the first year; for the wood, although painted on each side with a coat of invisible green, costs only about three-halfpence the foot, while the increase of fruit in quantity, as well as in quality, quite compen- sates for the outlay.”»—Gard. Chron. After-Culture.—‘* Remove all runners not required for planting as often as they appear, for their growth at first is at the expense of the parent, and the more beds are matted with plants, the more these will draw the moisture out of the soil. ‘* What would be just sufficient for supplying the evaporation of a moderate quantity of plants, would be compietely exhausted by an excessive number. Stirring the soil so as not to injure the roots, mulching with grass, or litter, or paving with flat tiles or small round pebbles and occasional waterings, are the best means to adopt. ‘¢ In thin soi] the plantations will re- quire to be more frequently renewed than where it is deeper, and of a more substantial quality..—Gard. Chron. The spade should never be permitted to enter among strawberries, except to dig them up when a bed is to be de- stroyed; the hoe, or at the most point- ing with a three-pronged fork, is all the | surface-stirring required, if the beds were well trenched when made, and have not been trampled upon. Late Crops.—To obtain these of the Alpine, it is correctly recommended to sow the seed in pans, and place ina hot-bed about February, or not later than the first week in March. ‘* When the plants are hardied off, plant out in good time in May; they will bear a plentiful crop in August and September following, and continue to bear until stopped by the frost. The same plants will also bear earlier than the larger sorts, and continue on until the crop raised from seed (as above) succeed, when they can be thrownaway. Large stones, or tiles, or slates, placed be- tween the plants, will keep the roots moist through the summer months, and ripen the fruit. Seed should always be saved from the finest fruit; to get them large and plentiful, waterings (with now and then manure water) will improve the size of the fruit..°—Gard. Chron. To obtain late crops of other straw- berries, as of the Keene’s Seedling, » Mr. W. Godwin recommends—‘* plants | which were early in spring to be plant- ed out into a rich border, to remain until the last week of September, when they will throw up very strong spikes of flowers; take up and pot in the same soil in which they were growing, and place in a pine frame. They will bear STR 570 STR ——_i—_——_ fruit to near the close of the year.2°— Gard. Chron. , ; Forcing.—On this point we have the following directions from one of the most eminent of modern horticulturists, Mr. Paxton :— ** Select for this purpose, in the mid- dle of August, a sufficient number of the best runners from approved kinds to have choice from, and plant them six inches apart, in beds, upon a strong border in a dry and sheltered situation. As soon as the leaves have withered, mulch them lightly with well-rotted ma- nure, and if very severe weather occur, protect them’ for the time with fern or litter. They must be kept the follow- ing spring free from weeds and runners, removing also any flowers as they ap- pear. or beginning of June, whenever dull or rainy weather may occur, remove them carefully into forty-eight-sized pots. It is optional with the grower, whether one, two, or three plants are put in one pot, according to his object being quality or quantity; but we, desiring fine fruit in preference to number, only place one of the strongest or two of the weaker in one pot, using enriched melon soil or turfy loam. Place them, when pot- ted, in a situation where they can be readily shaded for a short time, and receive -regular supplies of water if necessary. About the latter end of July, or early in August, these pots will be filled with roots, when the plants must be repotted into flat thirty- two-sized pots, usually termed straw- berry pots, and at this time plunged in old tan or coal ashes. The best man- ner of plunging them we find to be, forming beds. wide enough to contain five rows of pots, when plunged, upon a hard or gravelly surface, to prevent them rooting through, the sides sup- ported by slabs of the same width as the depth of the pots, and filling them up with old tan or ashes; the plants re- main here until wanted to take in, and are easily protected from severe frosts. It will be found an excellent plan to preserve the latest forced plants, which are not much exhausted, for forcing the first the next season; these, from their long period of rest, and well-ripened buds, are predisposed to break earlier and stronger than the others; some of them, if the autumn is moist, will be excited, and produce flowers, which Towards the latter end of May. must be immediately pinched out; they should have their balls carefully re- duced, and be repotted in larger pots early in August, protecting them from the late autumnal rains, and from frost.”? —Gard. Chron. * ‘* For succession,?? Mr. Paxton says, ‘< strong runners are taken up in Sep- tember, and planted about six inches apart, in manured and well-prepared beds, four feet wide, in a somewhat sheltered situation; there they are al- lowed to remain until the following July, during which period they must be kept very clean from weeds, have the flowers and runners regularly pinched off, and be watered whenever likely to suffer from drought. About the middle of July they are potted in small thirty- two-sized pots, two plants in a pot, taking the greatest care that neither roots nor leaves are damaged in the operation, and an important part of it is to press the earth firmly about them; the soil used is two parts loam to one of well-rotted-dung. Beds which will hold five or six rows of pots are then formed in the following manner :—level the surface of the ground, and spread upon it a layer of coal ashes; above’ which must be nailed firmly slabs, or any rough boards, as wide as the depth of the pots, which are then to be plunged to the rim‘in spent bark or ashes. ~ All that they will here require is attention to | watering when necessary, and a slight protection with fern, or other lightcover- ing, during severe frosty weather. I al- ways preserve from 300 to 400 of the latest forced plants of the above descrip- tion, and after having carefully reduced their balls, repot them in large thirty- — two-sized pots in July, treating them afterwards precisely as the others. I find these by having their buds formed early (through the slight forcing they have received), and becoming very strong, are admirably adapted for the first crop, and always repay me for the extra trouble. temperature of 40°, increasing to 50° when in bloom, and to 55° when ripen- ing.??—Gard. Chron. , Mr. Brown, gardener to Lord South- ampton, at Whittlebury Lodge, near Towcester, says, that ‘*Mr. Paxton’s method of preparing strawberry plants for forcing is a good one where time and trouble are of no consequence; but for the last fifteen years he has adopted Begin forcing. with a, ——— STR 571 STR j sccesgeada a plan which answers well, and by which good strong plants are procured in one month from the present year’s runners. car “¢ The compost used is good strong loam, wel] mixed with rotten dung from ‘the hot-bed linings; twenty-four-sized pots are the best for Keene’s Seedlings, and thirty-twos for Grove End Scarlets. The latter variety answers for early forc- ing better than any other sort, when strawberries are wanted by the end of March. ‘¢ Having filled the pots with the com- post, they are removed at once to the strawberry quarters, and arranged on each side of the rows, amongst the run- ners. The middle of July, when the plants are emitting roots, is the proper time to begin the operation of layering; having previously prepared a quantity of pegs, the runners that are rooted into the ground are carefully removed, and their roots inserted in the pots, and peg- ged down. Put three plants into the twenty-four pots, and one in the thirty- twos; they immediately begin growing, being supported by the mother plant, and wiil only require occasional water- ing in dry weather. ‘¢ When the plants are well rooted, which is in about one month, detach them from the old plants, and remove to their winter quarters. -6¢ Beds are prepared for them with a bottom of coal ashes, and they are _ plunged in old tan; each bed surrounded with a stratum of coal ashes six inches wide, and as high as the top of the pots, which prevents worms from working amongst them.??—Gard. Chron. Thus far we have copied the English edition of this work. The American reader, though he will find that which will instruct in the culture of this de- licious fruit, will perceive there is too much detail and tedious labour for his practice. pe Many of the varieties named in the preceding article are comparatively un- known in this country, and others have been tested, and found wanting. Our American Seedlings have, on the whole, given most satisfaction, and’ are most reliable, whilst the efforts now being made to produce varieties promise, from the success already attained, to give all that could be desired. ‘¢ The market gardeners around Phi- ladelphia, who are successful cultivators of the strawberry, plant both in spring and early in autumn; their method is © to plant two rows about twelve inches apart, and the plants twelve inches from _ each other in the rows; between every two rows as described, they leave spaces of two feet, which are, by the growth of the vines, reduced to one foot, thus making each bed two feet wide with an alley of twelve inches between them; when planted in the spring they usually raise some dwarf crop on the same ground, but that had better be omitted —keeping the soil cultivated and top- dressed with some well-rotted manure. In the autumn, they spread on the sur- face, both beds and alleys, a good coat of coarse manure, such as will lie light- ly, the loose portion of which may be raked off in the spring, when the alleys are dug, and covered with straw, to ex- clude draught and screen the trusses of fruit on the edge of the bed from con- tact with the earth. Exhausted tanner’s bark, or saw-dust scattered among the plants, is highly serviceable in protect- ing the fruit from grit. , ‘‘ Varieties. HuDSON oR SCARLET.— This variety is grown almost exclu- sively for the supply of the Philadelphia market; it appears to be distinct from what is known as the old Hudson, in New York, which Downing describes as having a neck, whereas the Philadelphia Hudson has none, (unless occasionally spontaneous seedlings are found with elongated crowns.) It is undoubtedly one of the best, though from want of ‘skill in its culture it is frequently unfruit- ful. The fruitful and barren flowers are on separate plants, and as the barren are most vigorous, they are liable to take nearly exclusive possession; in such cases the inevitable result is, but little fruit is obtained. The proper method is to carefully cull them when in flower, (the experienced can detect them by the foliage as well as flowers,) exterminating the larger portion of the male or stami- niferous plants, as one in ten suffices to impregnate the pistiliferous or fruit- bearing flowers. Much has been said on this subject, and most positive deni- als of the fact here stated have been made, but after all it is incontrovertible, and remains a ‘ fixed fact.? Our limits will not admit of embarking further in |the controversy, which has been prac- tically settled around Philadelphia for fifty years, by the German truck women, STR 572 STR — = who may be seen in the spring, with their linsey petticoats and short:gowns, busily engaged plucking out the ‘he plants,’ as they term them. ~ “In France the Chili strawberry is highly esteemed, but as it requires for- eign fertilization, they mix with it other varieties, and adopt artificial methods of impregnation. Duchesne has suc- ceeded by cutting off the half-closed, or rather half-opened umbils of staminife- rous flowers, with foot-stalks from one to three inches long, which being placed in phials filled with water, were dis- tributed among the Chili plants; the next day the blossoms opened and the im- pregnation was successfully completed. ‘¢Many experiments with like. re- sults, have been practised by others, and what in some of the periodicals is called -€ Longworth’s theory,’ is nothing more than that of the Philadelphia truck-wo- men, from one of whom that gentleman, as he says, received the hint. ‘* METHVEN SCARLET, also termed Keene’s seedling (erroneously), is a very large variety, sometimes exceeding five inches in circumference; it is but indif- ferently flavoured, but much admired _for preserving. The flowers of this va- riety are pistilate (female), though sta- mens are also present, generally in an imperfect state, hence it fruits more surely in company with those which have strong staminate flowers, as for instance the Iowa, or the males of the Hudson. ‘‘ Hovey’s SEEDLING (Fig. 164) was raised from the seed by the Messrs. Hovey, of Boston, some years since, and is one of the most desirable straw- berries among us. It is of vigorous growth, withstands the winter equal to any other, produces fruit of an enormous size, and exquisite flavour; too much.cannot be said in its praise. Mode of cultivation same as others; it does not,-however, always produce fruit when planted alone, from a defi- ciency of pollen in the anthers, and in an unfavourable state of the weather, fails to produce fruit at all: the better plan, therefore, is to mix with it some other variety, as directed for the Methven scarlet, or grow others in immediate contiguity, where the flies and air can affect the impregnation. It is true, fine crops from this variety are sometimes produced where no other variety is within a considerable distance, but it is attributable to most favourable states of the weather, in which the scanty pollen is all available, and also to impregnation from seedlings, which are, more or less, in all beds of one year’s standing, and some of which, proceeding from the old Hovey, have strong erect stamens, not unlike the Hudson males, with this dif- ference, however, the pistil is fruitful and the fruit perfect. ‘*Ross’s PHaenix.—This variety has been much praised in New York. It was produced by Mr. Alexander Ross, of Hudson, in that state, and from its character for hardiness and product (if true), would speedily attain popularity | and general culture—unfortunately for its reputation it has suffered greatly by the past season’s drought, whilst other varieties have sustained themselves un- injured. We must have further confir- mation of its value, before recommend- ing it for enlarged culture. ‘“‘CusHine.—(Fig. 165.) This is one of a multitude of seedling strawberries, raised by that indefatigable amateur cul- tivator, Dr. Wm. C. Brincklé, of Phi- ladelphia, to whom we are indebted for the drawing, Fig. 165, and many other favours. cle communicated to the Farmers’ Cabi- net, vol. xi., No. 1. 5: <<¢ Cushing, so named as a compli- ment to J. P. Cushing, Esq., of Boston, to whom I am under a thousand obliga- tions—produced from a seed of a berry of No. 72, A., [Dr. B.’s private cata- logue,] the anthers not having been extracted; planted May 3lst, 1846; fruited in 1846, one year from the seed ; flower large, with perfect anthers; leaf large and roundish, like that of Keene’s Seedling and Ross’s Phenix; differing, however, from these two varieties, in having a hairy leaf stem, and when full grown, the leaf is slightly twisted ; fruit very large, round, some of the berries with a short neck, light scarlet colour ; seed inserted in slight depressions; fine’ flavour, and very productive. This plant was exhibited at one of the meetings of the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society this summer, with 26 fine berries on it, several of them four and a quarter inches in circumference. Not long since, Mr. Longworth, of Cincinnati, offered one hundred dollars for a strawberry with perfect anthers that will bear a full crop of fruit as large as Hovey’s Seedling. Such a strawberry is, I think, the Cush- ing.? He thus describes it in an arti-. 573 —_—— ‘Fig. 164.—(P. 572.) ; A HI \ ) (AP NU SNANe WY 4 " \ WZ MY Z Hf @ © 8 \ \\ Y y NV Wy Ay \ y GC A7 uy} | 7 4 Ay Na ZB i \ \| AY BAB YY cael, 5 \ 4 Gj = 1 YN | ——-% K fl Ho \) KX ‘\ Voll N i a 5} NOt Glin! We Does i ia. | \ NY AS == 6S N\ SS < = = = % _ : : a 7 gg? : = . } iy ~~ —_ = a = = => | . S = \ ) a _— fo) GE 574 nee Fig. 165.—(P. 572:) STR 57 5 suc + secant ly “If Dr. Brincklé’s opinion should be confirmed by further observation, he will have contributed an invaluable va- riety of this delicious fruit.°—Rural Register. STRAWBERRY BLITE. Blitum. STRAWBERRY SPINACH. Blitum. STRAWBERRY TREE. Arbutus. STRELITZIA. Eight species. Stove herbaceous perennials. Suckers. Turfy loam. STREPTANTHERA. Two species. Green-house bulbous perennials. Off- sets. ‘Loam and peat. STREPTANTHUS. Two species. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. STREPTIUM asperum. Stove herb- aceous perennial. Cuttings. Loam and eat. . STREPTOCARPUS | rezii. herbaceous perennial. Division. soil and vegetable mould. STREPTOPUS. Five species. Herb- aceous perennials; all hardy except S. simplex, which belongs to the green- house. Seeds or division. Light soil. STROBILANTHES Sabiniana. Stove Stove Rich evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light rich soil. STROPANTHUS. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. San- dy loam and peat. ; STRUMARIA. Ten species. Green- house bulbous perennials. Or San- ‘dy loam. STRUTHIOLA. Fifteen species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Sandy peat. STRUTHIOPTERIS. Two species. Ferns. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. Loam and peat. STRYCHNOS. Six species. Stove evergreen trees. §. colubrina is a climber. Half-ripe cuttings and seeds. Loam and sandy peat. Nuz vomica is one of the species. STYLIDIUM. Nine species. Green- house herbaceous perennials or ever- green shrubs. The latter increases by |t cuttings, a few of the herbaceous by division, but chiefly by seeds. aaa loam and peat suit them all. STYPANDRA. Fivespecies. Grosue house herbaceous perennials. 8S. fru- tescens an evergreen shrub. Division. Sandy loam and peat. STYPHELIA. Eight species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings. Sandy peat and sandy loam. STYRAX. Four species. Hardy deciduous shrubs. the balsam of storax. soil. SUCCORY, CHICORY, or WILD S. officinale produces Layers. Light | ENDIVE. Cichorium intybus. Although this hardy perennial plant is much used on the Continent in salads, yet it has never been employed to any extent for. that purpose in Britain. Soil and Situation.—Like endive, for the main crops it requires a rich light soil, and for the earlier sowings a moist- er one, in every instance having an open | situation allotted to it. Sowing must be annually; for, al- though it is a perennial, yet, after being cut from two or three times, the radical leaves become bitter and worthless. Mr. Oldaker says, it should be sown at the end of June, or early in July; but L?Quintinye recommends it to be per- formed in the beginning of March; and it may be performed, for. successive crops, between the two periods men- tioned by the above writers, in the same manner as endive, and also like that salad herb in smal] portions at a time, the earliest sowings being very liable to run to seed. Sow moderately thick, in the same manner as endive, the direc- tions for cultivating which are equally applicable in every other particular. Cultivation.—When the plants begin to cover the ground, they are thinned to nine inches apart; and those removed planted out at similar distances. They require to be kept very clear of weeds; and if the leaves grow very luxuriant, and shade the roots much, they must be cut off within an inch of the ground. Those grown from sowings antecedent to June, when of nearly full growth, which they arrive at in about four months from the insertion of the seed, must have all their: leaves trimmed away, so as not to injure their hearts, and then covered over thick with sand, ashes, or long litter. By this treatment, those fresh leaves which are produced become etiolated and crisp, losing their bitterness. Those which arise from the sowings of June and July, must, at the end of September, or early in October, be raised, and planted very close, by the dibble, in pots or boxes, having their leaves trimmed as before directed, and their roots shortened previous to plant- ing. Water must be given moderately in dry weather, until they are establish- ed, and shelter, if frosts occur, by a SUC light covering of litter. When well rooted they may be removed into the | cellar, or other place, where the light: can be completely excluded from them, to blanch for use as wanted, which change will be effected in six or seven days. Succory will bear a temperature of 60°, but thrives better in a rather lower one. | © If the roots are vigorous, they. will bear cutting from two: or three times, after which they are unproductive. To obtain Seed, a few plants must be left in the open ground of the June sowing ; they bear the severity of win- ter without protection, and shoot up in the spring, running to seed about May. SUCCOWIA. balearica. Hardy an- nual. Seeds. Light soil. SUCCULENT PLANTS are so cha- ‘racterized on account of their thick juicy leaves. ‘* They are formed to exist,” says that excellent botanist and horti- culturist, Mr. Fortune, now traveling for the London Horticultural Society, ‘¢ in countries and situations where they are often exposed to intense light and dryness; their skins are thick; they have few evaporating pores; and they have, likewise, few roots to gorge their tissue with food during the rainy season. Therefore, we find the dry sandy plains of the Cape abounding in aloes and mesembryanthemums; and the bare volcanic rocks of Mount Etna covered, in many places, with the common prick- ly pear. In Mexico, also, and in many other parts of Central and South Ame- rica, the extensive race of cacti, with their curious unvegetable-like forms, are at home, and flourish even. in those dry and parched seasons when the whole face of nature besides seems withered and destroyed. I wish particu- larly to draw attention to the natural circumstances in which these plants are found; because, if these are once known, they are sure and certain guides in cultivation. << To be grown well, the whole race of what are called succulent plants re- quire to be kept in the lightest: possible situation in the green-house. It is true they may be grown in heavy-shaded green-houses, but their leaves will ne- ver acquire that. beautiful colour which is seen in light situations, nor will they flower so freely. Water should be given to the slow-growing kinds at all times with a judicious hand, but par- 576 SUC ticularly during winter, as more plants are killed by over-watering, than by any other cause. At this time, once in ten days or a fortnight will: generally be found sufficient; but as this depends upon the situation and the weather, much must be left to the good sense of those who attend them. Those kinds which are more luxuriant-in growth, and not so succulent, require more water, and are not so easily injured by it. By far the greatest number succeed perfectly, where the temperature is merely high enough to exclude frost, that is, anywhere between thirty-five and forty-five degrees, as may be most agreeable to the cultivator. ) ‘¢ Succulents are generally easily multiplied, either by seeds or cuttings. If the cutting is. very soft, and liable to damp, it ought to be dried a little be- fore it is put into the sand. Sometimes a little quicklime is useful for prevent- ing decay, and can be either used for the base of the cutting, or to any part of the plant from which a damping piece has been removed.??— Gardeners? Chron. SUCKERS, says Dr. Lindley, in his Theory of Horticulture, ** are branches: naturally thrown up by a plant from its base, when the onward currént of growth of the stem is stopped. Every stem, even the oldest, must have been once covered with leaves; each leaf had a bud in its axil ; but of those buds, few are. developed as branches, and the remainder remain latent, or perish. When the onward growth of a plant is arrested, the sap is driven to find new outlets, and then latent buds are very likely to be developed ; in fact, when the whole plant is young, they must necessarily shoot forth under fitting circumstances; the well-known effect of cutting down a tree is an exemplifi- cation of this. Such branches, if they. proceed from under ground, frequently form roots at their base, when they are employed as a means of propagation ; and in the case of the pine-apple they are made use of for the same purpose, although they do not emit roots till they are separated from the parent. Gardeners usually satisfy. themselves with taking from their pine-apple plants such suckers as are produced in con- sequence of the stoppage of onward growth by the formation of the fruits ;~ but these are few in number, and not — , — —.* SUF 577 SWE ——_~— at all what the plant is capable of yielding. Instead of throwing away the stump” of the pine-apple, it should be placed ina damp pit, and exposed _ toa bottom heat of 90°, or thereabouts, when every one of the latent eyes will spring forth, and a crop of young plants be the result.?? . Taking up or transplanting suckers may be performed almost at any time, in open weather, from October to. March, being careful to dig them up from. the mother plant with as much root as possible, and cutting off any thick knobbed part of the old root that may adhere to the bottom, leaving only the fibres arising from the young wood. Though it is probable some will appear with hardly any fibres, they will be dis- posed to produce them after removal. SUFFOCATION is a term employed by Keith and others to describe any stopping of the transpiratory organs of plants, whether it arises from extrava- Sated sap, mosses, fungi, or even from a deficient supply of sap. SUGAR BAKERS’ REFUSE. See Animal Matters. SUMACH. Rhus. SUNFLOWER. Helianthus. H. annuus. Annual Sunflower. Soil and Situation.—A light rich soil, and as unshadowed by trees as possible, suits it best. It is now much cultivated for its oil, and as a food for cattle and | poultry. The following directions for its culture on a large scale, are applica- ble on a reduced extent ‘for the oi den :— The earlier the seed can be got ' inté the ground the better, say the beginning of April, as the crop will be ready to harvest the latter part of August, which’ will be of the greatest importance to growers. The necessary quantity of seed required for an acre depends upon the conditions of the soil, and varies from four pounds to five pounds; but, of course, it is advisable to sow a little more than is actually wanted, to pro- vide against accidents. The seed should be drilled into the ground, and the dis- tance from row to row eighteen inches ; the plants to be thinned out 'to thirty inches from plant to plant, and the number of plants at this distance would be about 14,500 per acre; at eighteen: inches from plant to plant, 25,000 per acre; and at twelve inches from plant to plant, 32,000.. The produce of this 37 kind of grain, like that of most others, varies considerably, according to the state of the soil, climate and the cul- tivation that is employed; but the average quantity of seed is about fifty bushels per acre. This will produce fifty gallons of oil, and of oil-cake 1,500 pounds. The stalks, when burnt for alkali, give ten hundred weight of po- tash. SUNFLOWER. Actinotus Helianthi. SUN ROSE. Helianthemum. SURFACE GRUBS, or coerpiliate) are the larve of several species of Noctua, or Night Moths. Gardeners thus name them because they attack the roots of the turnip, mangold wurtzel, &c., just at the surface of the soil. SUTHERLANDIA frutescens. Half- hardy evergreen shrub. Seeds or young cuttings. Peat and loam. SUWARROW NUT. Caryocar. SWAINSONIA. Three species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings or seeds. Sandy loam and peat. SWALLOW WORT. § Asclepias. SWAMP LOCUST TREE. Gledit- schia monosperma. SWAMP POST. Quercus lyrata. SWARTZIA. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings with the leaves on. Sandy loam and peat. ~ SWEDISH BEAM TREE. Pyrus intermedia. SWEDISH TURNIP. Brassica cam- pestris; var. rutabaga. — SWEEPING. See’ Broom. It is best done in calm weather, and early, whilst the dew is strong enough to al- lay the dust and keep the light refuse from blowing about. SWEET BAY. Laurus nobilis. SWEET BRIAR. Rosa rubiginosa. It is of the easiest propagation in any common garden soil. Cuttings, suck- ers, and seed may be indifferently em- ployed. <¢ To form a hedge of it sow the heps in the autumn as soon as ripe, or which is better, in the month of March, hav- ing kept them in the meanwhile mixed with sand. But it is far more conveni- ent to buy sweet briar ‘ layers,’ (young plants,) ftom the nurseryman, and to plant them a foot apart early in the month of November. Let them grow as they like for the first year, and cut them down to the ground the second; they will then spring up and require no |more care than occasional trimming SWE with the pruning-knife or shears, so as to keep the hedge in shape. When it gets naked at the bottom it must be again cut down.??—Gard. Chron. SWEET CALABASH.. Passiflora maliformis. SWEET CICELY. See Chervil. SWEETIA.~- Three species.. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings or seeds. Loam and sand. SWEET MARJORAM. Origanum majorand. — SWEET MAUDLIN. ratum. SWEET PEA. Lathyrus odoratus. SWEET POTATOE. Batata. SWEET SOP. Anona squamosa. SWEET SULTAN. Centaurea mos- chata. ig SWEET WILLIAM. Dianthus bar- batus. P Varieties. — Narrow-leaved kinds: Deep Red; Pale Red; Pale Red and Flesh-coloured; Purplish, white-eyed ; Snow White; White and Flesh-colour- ed; White and Purple; White Spotted ; Red flowers and white borders, called Painted Lady Sweet-William, and many other intermediate shades of colours and variegations, and which frequently vary in the flowers of the same aggre- gate; there are also single and double flowers of each variety. Among the doubles of this class of narrow leaves, is that sort called the Mule, having a bright red double flower in smallish ag- gregates, said to have been accidentally produced from the seed of a Carnation impregnated by the Sweet-William. Broad-leaved kinds :—Tall deep red; Tall flesh-coloured; Pure White; White dotted; Striped leaves and red flowers; Large double rose-coloured; Sweet scented; Large double deep purplish burster; Double variegated. All the varieties, about forty in number, are hardy herbaceous evergreen perennials, rising the first year with a large bushy tuft of leafy shoots, continuing green the year round, and the second year shooting up flower-stems, producing flowers in June and July, succeeded by abundance of seed in autumn. The piants, although usually of several years’ duration, yet, after the first year of flowering, the shoots generally be- come long, straggling, and of dwindling growth, so that a supply should be raised every year from seed or layers. ‘Achillea age- Soil—The best is a moderately rich | 578 —_>—- | biennial. sSWwi light loam on a dry subsoil. Leaf-mould and liquid manure the best additions. Propagation.—They are propagated by seed, layers, and slips. - By Seed. —March and April is the season for sowing; sow it ina bed or border of light. earth broadcast, and rake it in. In a fortnight the plants will come: up. In June or July trans- plant into nursery beds of common earth, in rows six or eight inches dis- tant, to remain until autumn or spring following, then to be taken up and planted in the places where they are to flower. ‘By Layers. —June and July is the proper season, and the same method is to be observed in every respect as for the Carnation. This is the only me- thod of propagation to continue the same double-flowered varieties. Being layered, give frequent waterings in dry- weather, and they will be well rooted in six or seven weeks, then to be sepa- rated from the old plant, and removed to a bed of light soil; and in October some of them should be potted to move to occasional shelter from frost, for although the doubles are almost as hardy as the single, yet being more choice, it is necessary always to have some that may have protection in severe winters, the same as for choice Carna- tions. ; By Slips.—July is the best month for slipping; observing, if it is to be per- formed upon the year-old plants, they must be slipped quite down to the _| roots, so as to have fibres to each slip ; plant them at once where they are to flower, but these never make such good plants as seedlings and layers, nor do they generally flower so strongly. Saving Seed.—‘* The flowers which have the most beautiful colours, should, | when in full bloom, be marked from which to have seed; if any ordinary sorts grow near them, let them be re- moved to prevent hybridizing. Let the branches of seed be gathered in dry weather, and after lying a few days in the sun be beaten out. and stored till spring.??— Abercrombie. SWIETENIA. Two species. Stove evergreen trees. Ripe cuttings with the leaves on. Loam and sand. SYMPHIANDRA pendula. Hardy Seeds. Common soil. — SYMPHORICARPUS. St. Peter’s Wort. Three species. - Hardy decidu- SYM ous trees. mon soil. tf SYMPHYTUM. Eight species. Hardy herbaceous or tuberous-rooted perennials. Division. Offsets. Any soil suits them. SYMPIEZIA capitellata. house evergreen shrub. Young cut- tings. Turfy peat and sand. SYMPLOCOS. Three species. Green-house evergreen shrubs, or stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam, peat and sand. - SYNCHRONICAL TIMES are va- lidly observed for the performance of gardening operations. More than one botanist has observed that if the time of the foliation and blossoming of trees and herbs, and the days on which the seed is sown, flowers, and ripens, were noted, and if the observer continued these observations for many years, there cah be no doubt but that we might find Cuttings or suckers. Green- some rule from which we might con-|. clude at what time grains and culinary plants, according to the nature of each’ soil, ought to be sown; nor should we be at a loss to guess at the approach of winter; nor ignorant whether we ought to make our autumn sowing later or earlier. M. Barck would derive his intima- tions from the vegetable tribes alone, but, I think, the other kingdoms of organic nature might be included; as the appearances of certain migratory birds, and the birth of certain insects. For example, in the east of England, it is a common saying among gardeners, confirmed by practice — When you have seen two swallows together, sow kidney beans.” Mr: Stillingfleet, one of the most careful of Nature’s observers, says, that in his time ‘‘the prudent gardener never ventured to put his house-plants. out until the mulberry leaf was of a certain growth.°°—Gard. Alm. SYNNETIA. Three species. Green- house bulbous perennials. Offsets. Sandy peat and loam. SYRINGA. Lilac. Five species and many varieties. Hardy deciduous shrubs. Seeds, layers, or suckers. Common soil. SYRINGE. This is a most. useful - implement for impelling water over plants in pots, wall-trees, &c. Read’s syringes are excellent. When the ob- ject is merely to refresh the plants, the 579 TAN —_—_¢—__ Com- | operator should stand at some distance from the plants, so that the water may spread and fall upon them like a shower. But if aphides have to be destroyed he may be closer to the plants, and drive forth the water with greater force. SYZYGIUM. Three species. Stove evergreen trees or shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy peat. : TABERNAMONTANA. Fifteen species. Stove evergreen shrubs and trees. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. TACCA. Sixspecies. Stove bulbous perennials. Division. Loam, peat, and sand. TACHIA. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat, sand, and loam. TACHIGALIA bijuga. Stove ever- green tree. Cuttings. Light loam. TACSONIA. Two species. Stove evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Loam and peat. TARRITIS. Three species. Ferns. Stove evergreen creepers. Division or seeds. Sandy loam and peat. . TAGETES. Fifteen species. Hardy annuals, except T.. florida and T. lucida, the first a half-hardy, the second a green-house herbaceous perennial. The annuals increase by seed, the others by cuttings or division. Light rich soil. TALAUMA. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Layers or inarching on Magnolia obovata, and ripe cuttings with the leaves on will root, but not easily. Loam, peat, and sand. TALIERA bengalensis. Falun Seeds. Turfy loam and sand. TALIRIUM. - Seven species. Stove and green-house evergreen shrubs and herbaceous perennials. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. TJ. reflerum,a stove biennial, increases by seeds. TALISIA guianensis. Stove ever- green shrub. Large cuttings with the leaves on. Turfy loam and peat. TALLIES. See Labels. TAMARINDUS. Tamarind. Two species. Stove evergreen trees. Seeds and cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. TAMARIX. Three species. Stove evergreen shrubs or trees, except 7. gallica, which is a hardy deciduous shrub.~ Cuttings. Any soil suits them. Manna is produced from a variety of T. gallicia. TAMONEA. Two “species. biennials. Seeds. Sandy soil. TAN. See Burk. on . Stove TAN 580 TAX —4—— TANACETUM. Tansy. Nine species. Hardy or green-house herba- ceous perennials. The hardy kinds increase by division, the green-house by cuttings. Lightrich soil. 7. globu- liferuma hardy annual. Seeds. Com- mon soil. ; TANGIER PEA. Lathyrus tingi- tanus. ; TANK SYSTEM. Water, and Rendle. TANSY. Tanacetum vulgare. Varieties.—The Curled or Double Tansy, the one chiefly grown for culi- nary purposes; the Variegated; and the Common or Plain. This last is but of little worth, except for medicinal preparations. Soil and Situation.—A light, dry, and rather poor soil, in an open exposure, is best suited to it, as in such it is the most hardy and aromatic. Planting .—It is propagated by rooted slips, or divisions of its fibrous creeping root, planted from the close of Febru- ary until that of May, as well as during the autumn. Established plants may be moved at any period of the year. Insert in rows twelve inches apart each way; a gentle watering being given, if the season is not showery. As the roots spread rapidly, plants will soon make their appearance over a large space of ground if left undisturbed; to prevent it, a path should be left entirely round the bed, and often dug up to keep them within bounds. . The plants run up to seed during summer, but the stalks must be constantly removed, to encourage the production of young leaves. Weeds should be extirpated, and the decayed stalks cleared away in autumn, at the same time a little fresh mould being scattered over the bed. Forcing.—If required during the winter and early spring, old undivided roots must be placed in a moderate hot-bed once a month, from the middle of November to the close of February. They may be planted in the earth of the bed, in pots, and plunged in a similar situation, or placed round the edges of the bark pits in a hot-house. A frame is not absolutely necessary, as a cover- ing of mats supported on hoops, afforded during frost, at night, and in very in- clement weather, will answer nearly as well.” . TARCHONANTHUS. Two species. See Stove, Hot Green-house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Light rich soil. TARRAGON. Artemisia dracuncu- lus. Use it in salads to correct the coldness of the other herbs; and its leaves are likewise excellent when pickled. Soil and Situation.—It will flourish in any that are poor and bleak. Indeed, a poor dry earth is essential to produce it in perfection as to flavour, and hardy. Propagation by parting the roots, slips, and cuttings; as also by seed to be sown in the spring, but this mode is attended with much trouble. To have green Tarragon during the winter and spring, strong-rooted plants must be planted, small portions at a time, once or twice a month, from the close of October to the end of January. For the main crop, it may be planted any time from the end of February until the con- clusion of May ; and by cuttings of the young stalks, from the close of June until the same period of August; this last mode is not often adopted, on ac- count of the uncertainty attending the rooting of the cuttings. Cultivation—The plants must be at least ten inches apart; and if dry weather, especially in the summer months, water must be given regularly every evening until they are rooted. They soon establish themselves, and may be gathered from the same year. As they run up, if seed is not required, the stems should be cut down, which causes them to shoot afresh. The only additional cultivation required is to keep them free from weeds. At the end of autumn, if some estab- lished plants are set beneath a south fence, they will often afford leaves throughout the winter, or, at all events, come early in the spring. Some of the leaves should be gathered in the sum- mer, and dried for winter’s use. To obtain Seed, it is only necessary to allow it to run up without molestation. It flowers about July, and when the seed is ripe, in early autumn, must be cut, and completely dried before’ it is beaten out. . TASMANNIA © aromatica. pice: house shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. TAVERNIERA. Two species. Green- house evergreens; one a trailer, the othera shrub. Seeds. Sandy loam. TAXODIUM capense. Green-house TAX 581 TEN —_ 4 evergreen shrub; and T. distichum (Deciduous Cypress), and its varieties, hardy deciduous trees. Seeds, layers, or cuttings with the leaves on, placed in water. Rich moist soil. TAXUS. YewTree. Five species. ‘Evergreen shrubs and trees, all hardy except JT. nucifera, which belongs to the green-house. They increase chiefly by seeds, but may also increase by cut- tings. Moist soil. See Conifer. 'TEA-TREE. = Thea. TECOMA. Fifteen species. Stove evergreen shrubs and trees. Green- house, hardy, and half-hardy evergreen and deciduous climbers. Cuttings and layers. Peat and loam, or common soil, and a warm situation. TEEDIA. Two species. house biennials. Light rich soil. TEESDALIA. Two species. Har- dy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. TELEKIA speciosa. Hardy herba- ceous perennial. Division. Common soil. TELLIMA grandiflora._ herbaceous perennial. soil. _ TELOPEA speciosissima. Warratah. Green-house evergreen tree. Layers and also cuttings. Sandy loam and heath mould. TEMPERATURE is the most im- portant circumstance connected with the cultivation of plants; for upon its ‘proper regulation and just accommoda- tion to the intensity of light depend, in the chief degree, whether a plant is healthy and capable of performing its functions. Every seed has its appro- priate temperature for germinating (see Germination); every root has,a temper- ature in which it imbibes food most favourably (see Bottom-heat) ; and every leaf has a temperature in which it re- spires most vigorously (see Leaves and Night Temperature). TEMPLES dedicated to some deity of the heathen mythology, as to Pan in a grove, or to Flora among bright sun- ny parterres, are not inappropriate, if the: extent of the grounds and the ex- penditure on their management allow them to be of that size, and of that cor- rectness of style, which can alone give the classic air and dignity which are their only sources of pleasure. TEMPLETONIA. Twospecies. Green- Cuttings or seeds. Hardy Division. Peaty Green-house evergreen shrubs. cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. _ TENTHREDO. Saw-fly. TJ. moris, Plum Saw-fly, attacks the green-gage, and other plums, when about the size of peas. It pierces them, causing their fall, to deposit its eggs in their pulp. M. Kollar gives these correct particu- lars of this insect :— *‘At a distance it resembles a small house-fly ; but it has four wings, where- as the house-fly has only two. The head and body. are completely black, and the feet of a reddish yellow. <¢ It lays its eggs in the notched part of the calyx of the flowers, cuts in obliquely. with its saws, without com- pletely piercing it through, and intro- duces the egg into the deepest part, so that, when it flies away, nothing is seen on the exterior but. two very small brown spots. ‘¢The egg is very small, greenish- white, and transparent. It is hatched in the course of a few days, and pro- duces a delicate whitish larva, with a dark-brown head, six pairs of middle feet, three pairs of fore feet, and one pair of anal feet.?? T. hemorrhoidalis, Pear Saw-fly, re- sembles the former, but is rather larger, and has more yellow about it. The same authority last quoted says that it ‘‘appears usually late in May, some of them only in June, if the warm spring weather sets in late. The female lays from forty to sixty eggs, and almost always on the under side of the leaf. The caterpillar, which is hatched in a few days, at first is of a whitish yellow, but becomes darker every day. As soon, as it is exposed to the light, it spins a web over itself, the threads of which proceed from its mouth. The caterpil- lar never appears out of this web; and when it has partly eaten a leaf, it spins itself a web on another, and always i in company with the other caterpillars. It Young has a black head, and, immediately un- der the throat, two black dots: the other parts of the body are ochre-colored and transparent, without hairs.*»—Kollar. T. difformis, Antler Rose Saw-fly. Its caterpillar feeds on the leaves of -rose-trees; and they are thus described by Mr. Curtis : —_— - «‘ They are nearly cylindrical, taper- ing a little to the tail. They are bright green, and \covered with short upright hairs, with a darker. aie down the back, TEN and one of a deeper tint down each side. Having arrived at their full growth, they spin a web either between the contiguous leaves, or in a fold, by drawing the sides of a leaf slightly to- gether; but sometimes it is attached to the stem only ata fork of the branches. In this: web they forma yellowish-white cocoon, somewhat oval. In these co- coons the green larve rest a short time, losing, it is said, their fourteen false legs, and eventually changing to a pupa. The flies are hatched in twelve or thir- teen days. The perfect insect is found from the end of May to the middle of August. <‘ Tt would not, perhaps, be an easy matter to get rid of these troublesome caterpillars, except by hand-picking and shaking the branches over a cloth; for, as they keep on the under surface of the leaves, no application except fumi- gating with sulphur would fairly reach them. It is possible that sprinkling hellebore powder over the leaves would annoy them.??—Gard. Chron. T. populi, Peach, or Poplar Saw-fly, also resembles the first-named, and M. Kollar says that,— ‘¢As soon as the first leaves of ‘the stone-fruits are unfolded in spring, this saw-fly visits them, and attacks the peach, apricot, and plum trees. They choose days that are particularly still and warm, and lay their eggs on a leaf in rows, one after another, from thirty to forty in number, not all at once, but often disburden themselves of their eggs at different times. They are longish, cylindrical, and of a light yellow color. << If the weather is favorable the eggs are hatched in a few days, and a white- greenish grub is produced from them. They no sooner begin to move than they surround themselves with a web; thus surrounded they roam from one leaf to another, from which they select the best parts for their food; therefore a leaf is never found entirely con- sumed. ‘As soon as they have attained their full growth they retire into the ground, form themselves a chamber, make them- selves a dark-brown roomy case, the material for which they produce from themselves, and remain in the earth till spring, when they again appear as saw- flies to propagate their species.”— Kollar. T. grossularie and T. ribesit are 582 —_¢—_ TEN very destructive of gooseberries. Mr. Curtis says that,—_ 5 ‘¢ The larve, of which there are two generations in the course of the year, live in societies consisting of from 50 to nearly 1000. One family, so to speak, frequently occupy one bush, and destroy all the leaves. thus prevent- ing the fruit from arriving at maturity. ‘¢ The larve are of a grayish colour, covered with small. black warts ar- ranged in rows, and have twenty feet. Their transformation also takes place in society, one fixing the end of its cocoon to the end of the next, and so on. Many remedies have been sug- gested, but none have been attended with perfect success. Perhaps the surest — way of all to diminish the numbers is to hand-pick the larve, and collect the cocoons wherever they appear, and destroy them, thus killing many hun- dreds in embryo.”—Gard. Chron. T. pini, T. erythrocephala, and T. ru- Jus, infest the pine and fir species. T. cerasi produces a slimy catepillar, commonly called a slug-worm, very in- jurious to the leaf of the cherry, plum, and pear. Mr. Curtis observes of ‘¢ these very singular and inactive cat- erpillars,?? that they ‘“‘are more like little black slugs, or tadpoles, than the larve of a saw-fly, being entirely co- vered with a slimy matter which gives them a moist and shining appearance ; and when at rest, upon the foliage, they might easily be mistaken for the droppings of sparrows or swallows. Upon closer examination they will be found to exhibit the typical characters’ of the family to which they belong, having six pectoral and fourteen abdo- minal feet, but no anal ones. They are of a deep bottle-green color; the thorax is dilated, being very much thicker than the rest of the body, and concealing the head, or nearly so. ‘¢ After four or five weeks, when they have arrived at their full growth, they cast off their bottle-green jackets, and then appear ina suit of buff, being entirely changed in their appearance ; they no longer shine, neither are they smooth, but covered with small trans- verse wrinkles; and, a short time after,, they leave the leaves for the purpose of entering the earth, where they spin an oval brown cocoon composed of silk, with grains of the soil adhering to the outside. TEP 583 TER ——& - Towards the end of July, after having lain dormant nearly ten months, the flies emerge from their tombs. The female is of a shining black, with a violet tint; the head and thorax are pubescent; ‘the horns are short, pointed, and composed of nine joints; the ovi- positor is nearly concealed; the wings are often more or less stained with black. ' «The eggs are deposited on the upper side of the leaves, probably un- der the skin. They are oval, and of a clear yellow colour: the young larve are hatched from them in a few days. Dusting the infested trees’ with quick- lime is certain death to the larve, es- ‘pecially in their earlier stages; but it ought to be repeated once or twice, as they change their skins, and can thus, like slugs, get rid of the noxious matter with their slough, for the first time, but not so at the second dusting. On a small scale, the powdered and unslaked lime might be scattered over the leaves with atin box, having a number of holes im the lid like a dredging-box; and on a larger scale a fine sieve might be used by aman on a ladder or steps. Decoction of. tobacco water, about a quarter of a pound of tobacco to two gallons of water, thrown over the trees with a garden-engine, will destroy them. ,, © Some persons have employed lime- water with complete success; about a peck of lime to thirty gallons of water ; and if two pounds of soft soap be added, it will improve the mixture. _ & The best periods for applying these liquids, are before seven in the morn- ing and after five in the evening. The) syringing should be repeated until the trees are free from the slug-worm ; they may afterwards be washed clean with pure water; and if the lime water be used in the evening the cleansing may be deferred until the following morn- ing.?’—Gard. Chron. TEPHRITIS onopordinis. Celery Fly. This insect causes blisters on the leaves of celery by puncturing them, and depositing its eggs within their tissue. Mr. Curtis observes that,— *¢ On examining these blisters they are found to be considerably inflated, and, on holding them up to the light, a maggot may be seen moving betweén “the thin and somewhat transparent cu- ticles, where it has been consuming the parenchyma. Those parts of the blisters where it commenced its opera- tions being withered, they become ochreous or brown; and the other por- tions, but recently deprived of the pulpy substance, partake of a pale green tint. In this way one maggot will form a patch of more than an inch in diameter before it is full grown. ‘©The larve are of a glossy pale green, with ‘the alimentary canal shin- ing through the back ; the head is at- tenuated, and the tail obtuse, with a few tubercles. The maggots leave their habitations and probably enter the earth to undergo their transformation to the pupa. The male flies are shining ochreous, with a few black bristles on the head and thorax, which are dark ochreous; the lower part of the face and horns is yellowish ; the latter droop, and are furnished with a fine bristle or seta, which is black, except at the base. The eyes are deep green; the body, which is five-jointed, is rusty brown and downy ; the wings are much longer than the body, iridescent, pret- tily variegated with brown, leaving two transparent spots on the costal edge, and five large irregular ones on the inferior margin. The female is ‘larger and darker, especially the tho- rax, abdomen, and the brown markings on the wings.”»—Gard. Chron. The blisters are most prevalent in September and October, and are occa- sionally found on those of the Alex- ander and Parsnep. TEPHROSIA. Twenty-eight. spe- — cies. Stove and green-house evergreen shrubs, anda few herbaceous peren- nials of the latter species. J. virgini- anais half hardy. Seeds or young cut- tings. Loam and peat. ti TERAMNUS. Two species. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Loam and peat. He TEREBRATION, or peg-grafting, is an obsolete mode, in which a hole was bored in the stock, and the scion was cut in a peg form to fitit See Grafting. TERMINALIA. Fifteen species. Stove evergreen trees and shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Loam aud peat. From T. cotappa the Indian ink is obtained. TERNSTROMIA. Four species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. TERRACES are not permissible any- where but around the mansion. Mr.’ TES 584 THE + Whately justly observes, in connection with these structures, that,— ‘Choice arrangement, composition, improvement, and preservation, are so many symptoms of art which may occa- sionally appear in several parts of a garden, but ought to be displayed with- out reserve near the house; nothing | there should seem neglected; it is a scene of the most cultivated nature ; it ought to be enriched—it ought to be adorned; and design may be avowed in the plan, and expense in the execu- tion.”? Mr. Loudon is more practical] on this subject, and observes,— ‘s The breadth of terraces, and their height relatively to the level of the floor of the living-rooms, must depend jointly on the height of the floor of the living- rooms and the surface of the grounds or country to be seen over them. Too broad or too high a terrace will both have the effect of foreshortening a lawn with a declining surface, or conceal- ing a near valley. The safest mode, in doubtful cases, is not to form this appendage till after the principal floor is laid, and then to determine the de- tails of the terrace by trial and correc- tion. << Narrow terraces are entirely occu- pied as promenades, and may be either gravelled or paved; and different Je- vels, when they exist, connected by in- clined planes or flights of steps. Where the breadth is more than is requisite for walks, the borders may be kept in turf, with groups or marginal strips of flowers and low shrubs. In some cases the terrace-walls may be so extended as to enclose ground sufficient for a level plot to be used as a bowling green. These-are generally connected with one of the living-rooms, or the conservatory; and to the latter is frequently joined an aviary, and the entire range of botanic stoves.””—Enc. Gard. TESTUDINARIA. Two species. Green-house deciduous climbers. Im- ported roots. Turfy loam and peat. TETRACERA. Four species. Stove evergreen climbers. Ripe cuttings. Turfy loam and peat. TETRAGONOLOBUS. Hardy trail- ing annuals or deciduous trailers. Seeds. Common soil. TETRAGONOTHECA helianthoides.’ Hardy herbaceous perennial. Division or seeds. Rich light soil. TETRAMENA mezicanianum. Green-house shrub. Cuttings and seed. Light rich loam. TETRANTHERA. Eight species. Stove and green-house evergreen trees and shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Turfy loam, — peat, and sand. TETRANTHUS littor alis. < Stove evergreen creeper. Division. Sandy loam. | ‘ TETRAPELTIS fragrans. Stove orchid. Division. Peat and potsherds. TETRAPTERIS. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and loam. TETRATHECA. Seven species. Green-house evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. TETTIGONIA spumaria. Froth Fly, or Cuckoo Spit. The frothy patches seen in April. and May upon the young shoots of hawthorn, lilac, peach, &c., are formed by this insect. As the froth is formed from the sap of the plant, the insect is by so much injurious to it. The froth protects the insect from the sun, from night colds, and from parasitic insects ; but it betrays the insect to the gardener, whose hand is the best re- medy. TEUCRIUM. Forty-seven species. Hardy, half-hardy, and green-house evergreen shrubs and herbaceous pe- rennials; some hardy annuals, and T. cubense a stove biennial. The herba- ceous perennials increase by division and seeds; the shrubby kinds by young cuttings; the annuals and biennials by seeds. Common soil suits them all.- _ THALIA dealbata, a half-hardy aqua- tic perennial, and 7. geniculata, a stove herbaceous perennial. Division. Light rich soil. THALICTRUM.. Fifty-six species. Hardy herbaceous perennials: a few are twiners., Division. Light soil. _ THAPSIA. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous perennials: Seeds. Com- mon soil. et THAPSIUM. Two species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division or seeds. Common soil.. THEA. Tea. Three species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. eatin San- dy loam and peat. THEOPHRASTA Jussieui. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings, with the leaves left entire. THERMOMETER. This instrument is the only unfailing guide for the gar- dener in regulating the heat to which he allows the roots and foliage of his plants to be subjected. Fahrenheit’s is that employed in England; but as on the Continent others, differently gradu- ated, are employed, and referred to by —_ | —____. 585 eats THE Cent. | Fah.|/Reau. | Cent. 100.0 || 153 | 53.7 | 67.2 94. 99.4. 152 | 53.3 | 66.6 93 98.8 151 | 52.8 | 66.1 92 98.3 || 150 | 53.4 | 65.5 SL 97.7 149 | 52.0 | 65.0 90 97.2 148 | 51.5 65.4 £9 | 96.6 147 | 51.1 | 63.8 88, 96.1 ‘|| 146 | 50.6 | 63.3 87 95.5 145 | 50.2 | 62.7 86 95.0 144 | 49.7 622 85 94.4 148 | 49.3 | 61.6 84 93.8 142 | 43.8 | 61.1 83 933 141 | 484 | 605 82 92.7 140 | 48.0 | 60.0 81 92.2 139 | 47.5 59.4 80 91.6 138 | 47.1 | 58.8 79 91.1 137 | 46.6 583 78 90.5 136 | 46.2 | 57.7 77, 90.0 135 | 45.7. | 57.2 76 89.4 134 | 45.3 | 56.6 75 88.8 133 | 44.8 | 56.1 74. 85.5 68 85.0 126 | 41.7 | 52.2 67 84.4 125 | 41.3 | 51.6 66 83.8 124 | 40.8. | 51.1 65 §3.3 123 | 40.4 | 50.5 64 82.7 122 | 400 | 50.0 63 82.2 ||. 121 | 39.5 | 49.4 62° | 81.6. || 120 | 39.1. | 48.8 61 81.8 119 | 386 | 48.3 60 805 118 | 38.2 | 47.7 59 80.0 || 117 | 37.7 | 47.2 58 79.4 116 | 37.3° | 466 57 78.8 115 | 36.8 | 46.1 56 78.3 114 | 36.4 | 455 50. petted 113 | 36.0 | 45.0 54 LGD 112 | 35.5 | 444 53 | 76.6 Jil | 35.1 | 438 52 : |! : 3.3 7 2 10. TA 00.0 60 COR RB 1 G1 > S XENI GD A 00 0 NNWOHPUNOROWIHARNOBR MWA 2 THE 34.4 || 35 33.8 || 34 33.3. || 33 32.7 || 32 32.2 || 31 31.6 || 30 31.1 || 29 30.5 || 28 30.0 || 27 294 || 26 28.8 || 25 28.3 || 24 Ch ge 272 {| 922 26.6 || 21 26.1 || 20 25.5 || 19 25.0 || 18 244° || 47 23.8 || 16 15 =s On On NOOPWWRORWDWHROD 200 —="5 DOAWWDEONHANNUwWORSHE DOW ANHH2~100 HO Fah.| Reau.} Cent. Pah.| Reau. Cent. | Efelal flees sia I DNINIAO ATP PP WWNUNUEPEOSSSSt SOR OMWUWWORSHUSANRNWORSOKR DL foreign writers, the following table, showing the synonymous degrees of each, will be useful. [See table.] . Fahrenheit’s is dsed chiefly in Britain, Holland, and North America, the freez- ing point of water on which is at 32°; i= OA PWWNUNHEOSOSOME. SCROWNINAROOUFR SD THE 586 THE: —_q—- x ‘ and its boiling point, 212°. Reaumur’s | plexicaule, a green- house evergreen thermometer was that chiefly used in France before the Revolution, and is that now generally used in Spain, and in some other Continental States. In its scale, the freezing point is 0°; and the boiling point, 80°. Celsius or-the Centigrade thermometer, now used throughout France, and in the northern kingdoms of Europe, the freezing point is 0°; and the boiling point, 100°. Hence, to reduce degrees of tempera- ture of the Centigrade thermometer and of that of Reaumur to degrees of Fah- renheit’s scale, and conversely :— Rule 1. ‘grees by 9, and divide the product by 5; or multiply the degrees of Reaumur by 9, and divide by 4; then add 32 to the quotient in either case, and the sum is the degrees of temperature of Fahrenheit’s scale. Rule 2. From the number of degrees on Fahrenheit?s scale, subtract 32; multiply the remainder by 5, for Centi- grade degrees, or by 4 for those of Reaumur’s scale, and the product, in either case, being divided by 9, will give the temperature required. To ascertain the internal temperature of a hot-house, the thermometer should be fixed near its centre, against a pillar, and under a cupola, or little roof, shad- ing it from the sun. A self-registering thermometer should be in every house, for it shows the highest and lowest degrees of heat which have occurred in the twenty- four hours; and, therefore, serves as a check upon those to whose care they are entrusted. Bregazzi’s bark-bed ther- mometer is an excellent in- strument for ascertaining the bottom heat of hot- beds, bark-pits, &c. It is a thermometer inclosed in a metal tube, perforated to admit the heat, pointed soas to be easily thrust down and with a-small door in the side, for observing the de- gree of temperature shown by the scale. Fig. 166. THERMOPSIS. Three species. Hardy or half-hardy herbaceous peren- nials. Seeds. Light rich soil. THESIUM. Six species. Hardy herbaceous perennials, except 7. ame | Multiply the Centigrade de-: shrub; increased by cuttings, and grow- ing best in loam and peat; the herba- ceous kinds increase by division or seeds, and require a chalky soil. | THESPESIA. Two species. Stove evergreen trees. MHalf-ripe cuttings. Sandy loam. . THIBAUDIA. Four species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Turfy loam, peat, and sand. _ THINNING. The exhaustion conse- quent upon the production of seed, is a chief cause of the decay of plants. This explains why fruit trees are weak- ened ‘or rendered temporarily unpro- ductive, and even killed, by being allowed to ripen too large a crop of fruit, or to ‘‘ overbear themselves,’ as it is emphatically termed by the gar- dener. he The thinning of fruit is consequently one of the most important operations of the garden, though one of the least generally practised. On the weaker branches of the nectarine and peach, an average space of nine inches should be between each brace of fruit, and on the most vigorous wood of the most healthy trees, they should not be nearer than six inches. This enforcement of the importance of thinning fruit, is not intended to be confined to the two trees specified; it is equally important to be attended to in all other fruit- bearers, but especially the vine, apri- cot, apple, and pear. It should be done with a bold fearless hand, and the perfection of that which is allowed to remain, will amply reward the grower in the harvest time for the apparent sacrifice now made. But he will not reap his reward only in this year, for the trees, thus kept unweakened by over production, will be able to ripen their wood, and deposit that store of inspissated ‘sap in their vessels, so ab- solutely necessary for their fruitfulness next season. The berries of the grape vine are best thinned from the branches with a sharp- pointed pair of scissors, care being taken to remove the smallest berries. This increases the weight and excel- lence of the bunches; for two berries will always outweigh four grown on the same branchlet of a bunch, be- . sides being far handsomer, and having more juice, as compared with the skins. The average weight of the bunches on THO 587 THU ——>——_ a vine may be taken, when ripe, at half a pound each, and with this data it is easy to carry into practice Mr. Clement Hoare’s excellent rule for proportioning the crop to the size of the vine. If its stem, measured just above the ground, be three inches in circumfer- ence, it may bear five pounds weight of grapes. — Papomenes:: tia Ai) 's 2. 9, ¢ 10 Tbst 4 Se ee ee 1by ¢6 Re aah 20.66 #5 ce. 95 «6 And so five pounds additional for every half inch of increased circum- ference. Thinning is a most necessary opera- tion with plants, as well as with the fruit they bear. The roots of a plant extend in a circle round it, of which the stem is the centre. If the roots of ad- . joining plants extend within each other’s circle, they mutually rob of nutriment, and check each other’s growth. Thin- ning in the seed-bed is the remedy generally applied with too timid a hand. THOMASIA. Seven species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. THOUINIA pinnata. green shrubs. Ripe cuttings. loam and peat. THRIFT. Statice armeria, Edgings. THRIPS, a genus of predatory in- sects. : T. adonidum is particularly injurious to stove plants. Its different forms are thus portrayed by that excellent ento- mologist, Mr. Curtis :— ‘¢ The larve and pupz are yellowish- white, and the perfect insect is of a dull deep black, with the point, and sometimes the whole of the abdomen, of a rust colour, the wings. are dirty white, the horns and legs yellowish, the extremity of the former black; it is very troublesome in hot-houses, attack- ing tropical plants by piercing the under side of the leaves, and one often sees at the tip of the tail a globule of black- ish fluid, which it soon deposits, and by innumerable spots of this glutinous mat- ter the pores of the leaves are stopped up, and large portions of the surface become blotched. During March the full-grown larve and pup, which are as large as the perfect insect, are found in groups, feeding on the under side of Stove ever- Sandy See the leaves, and at this time the recently hatched but perfect insect, either lies close under the ribs, or roves about in search of a mate.?*—Gard. Chron. T. ochraceus infests the ripe fruit of © plums, peaches, and nectarines, pierc- ing the stalks and causing their fall, and rendering the fruit disgusting. It was first noticed, and thus described by Mr. Curtis :— , «¢ Tt is narrow and linear, of a bright and deep ochreous colour, the eyes are black, the horns appear to be only six- jointed and brownish at the tips; it has three ocelli in the crown, the body is’ hairy, the tip pointed and bristly, the wings are shorter than the body in the male, lying parallel-on the back when at rest, narrow, especially the under ones, and fringed, the hairs longest: beneath and at the point, tips of feet dusky.”»—Gard. Chron. THROATWORT. Campanula cervi- caria. THROATWORT. chelium. THROATWORT. Trachelium. THRYALLIS brachystachys. Stove evergreen climber. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. ey tad THUJA arbor vite. Light species. Evergreen trees, all hardy except 7. articulata, which is half-hardy, and 7’. cupressoides, which belongs to the green- house. Seeds, and 7. pendula, one of the rarer kinds, by cuttings. A moist soil suits them best. TJ. occidentalis and 7’. orientalis form admirable ever- green hedges, and when properly shear- ed, inclining inward from the base so that no part is overshadowed, retain their beauty for many years. As a standard, the occidentalis or American arbor vite, has few superiors among the minor evergreens. ; THUNBERGIA. Ten species. Stove Campanula tra- evergreen climbers, except T. auran-— tiaca, a green-house herbaceous peren- nial. Cuttings or seeds. Sandy loam and leaf mould. : gf - Mr. MacIntyre says, that the species of this genus, “‘ though usually grown ‘in a stove, will flower freely in a green- house, or even when they are planted out in the open border, during the sum- mer months; if the situation is sheltered, and exposed to the influence of the sun, they will flower well. In propagating those that are intended for planting out, take off the lateral shoots when they are THY 588 TILE ae ofa sufficient length, which, if possible, should be done in March, so that the plants may have attained a medium size ‘pefore they are put out; pot them im equal quantities of peat and sand, then plunge them in a hot-bed, and they will strike root in a week or two. When they are rooted, pot them off into small pots filled with good rich loam and - leaf-mould, mixed with a little sand; then replace them in the pit or frame until the middle of May, when, if the weather is favourable, they may then be planted out. Ifthe soil is not naturally good, it should be made so; and as the plants advance in growth, ‘they should be trained to some kind of support, which may be of any shape that fancy may suggest. Ifthe season is dry, they should be watered and syringed. About the middle of October, take up the plants with good balls, re-pot them, and place them in the green-house. After they have been there for a short time, they may be removed to the stove, where they will keep gay for the greater part of the winter. “ T., alata has a beautiful effect when it is planted-out on a rock-work, where the plant appears in its natural charaec- ter, clinging to the various projections, which it quickly covers.”>—Gard. Chron. THYMBRA spicata. Half-hardy evergreen shrub. Young cuttings or seeds. Gravellysoil. _ THYME. Thymus vulgaris. Varieties.—Broad-leaved Green, Nar- row-leaved Green, Variegated, and Lemon-scented. The Variegated is grown almost solely on account of its ornamental foliage. Soil and. Situation—A poor, light, and dry soil, is best. In moist or rich soils, it becomes luxuriant, but deficient in its aromatic qualities, and generally perishes during the winter. The situa- tion cannot be too open. » Propagation.—By Seeds and rooted Slips.—Sowing may be performed from the middle of March until about the _ beginning of May, in drills half'an inch deep, six inches apart, or as an edging toabed or border. Theseedlings must be kept clear of weeds, and if the season is dry, watered moderately twice a week. When of about six weeks’ growth, or when three or four inches high, thin to six inches’ apart, unless grown as an edging, when they must be left thick. Those removed may be pricked out at a similar distance, if required ; water occasionally until they have taken root. The plants may be left in the situations they are placed in at this - season, or be finally planted out in September or October, or in the early spring of the following year. To obtain slips, some old stools may be divided into as many rooted portions as possible, or layers may be obtained by loosening the soil around them, and. pegging the lateral shoots beneath the surface. They must be planted out at distances similar to those raised from seed, water and weeding being similarly required. In autumn the decayed stalks should be cleared away, and a little fresh earth scattered and turned in among ‘the stools. Although it is perennial, yet after three or four years, thyme becomes stunted and unproductive, consequently requiring to be raised poe s from seed. By. Slips.—These may be planted from the beginning of February until the close of May. To obtain Seed.—Some plants should be allowed to run up without being gathered from, in early summer. The seed is ripe during July, and must be cut immediately it is so, and laid on a cloth to dry, otherwise the first rain will wash it out of the seed-vessels. THYMUS. Thyme. Nineteen spe- cies, and several varieties. Hardy or half-hardy evergreen shrubs or trailers. T. corsicus, an herbaceous perennial. Division, slips, cuttings, or seeds. ss light, sandy soil. THYSANOTUS. Seven species. Green-house or half-hardy herbaceous or tuberous-rooted perennials. “Offsets. Sandy loam. TIARELLA. Four species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. ed eat. TIARIDIUM. Two species.. Half- hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. TIGER FLOWER. Tigridia. TIGRIDIA, - Two species. Hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets or seeds. Light rich soil. TILE ROOT. Geissorhiza: TILIA. Lime Tree. Three species, and many varieties. Hardy deciduous trees. Seeds and sometimes layers. Any deep, light, and fertile soil suits | them. TILIACORA racemosa. ° tne ever= whi 589 green climber. and peat. 4 . | TILLANDSIA. Thirty-one species. Stove epiphytes. Suckers or seeds. Wood, with a little moss on their roots. - TINEA, a genus of moths, the larve of which are very destructive. T. daucella. Carret Moth. Head and back and. upper wings reddish-brown ; abdomen gray and white. Its cater- pillar is greenish-gray with black tuber- cles, and livés on the flowers and seeds of the carrot, but prefers the parsnep. T. padella. Small. Ermine Moth is white with black dots on the upper wings. Eggs deposited in June and July, near the blossom buds of the haw- thorn, eunymus, apple and pear tree; caterpillars appear in autumn, and in- close the twigs with a web. In the fol- lowing spring they attack the petals and ealyx. Color, dull lead with a black head.—Kollar. T. Clerckella. Pear Tree Blister Moth. The. caterpillars of this raise dark brown blisters on the leaves of the pear tree, and less often on those of the apple. The moth is active and minute, shining like pearly satin, the wings hav- ing an orange ground spotted with black and other colors. It appears in May. Mr. Curtis says,—‘*To check this disease, it will be advisable to wash the tree with soapsuds the end of May or beginning of June, when the moths are pairing and laying eggs for a future progeny; and if a very valuable tree be only partially attacked, the blistered leaves might be gathered and burnt as Cuttings. Sandy loam soon as any spots began to aes in August.?>—Gard. Chron. + T.. -capitella. Triple-spotted Cainfhest Tinea. The larve of this feed upon the pith of the young shoots of the cur- rant, which they attack in the spring. The moth itself is fuscous; the head with an ochreous tuft; superior wings bronzed, spotted with purple and yel- low. tt: porectella. Rocket or Gray-streak Moth, has its habits and forms thus de- scribed by Mr. Curtis :-— <¢ During the middle and latter end of April, as the shoots of the rockets advance, it is found that the leaves ad- here firmly together, and those that liberate themselves are perforated with large holes. On forcibly opening a shoot, for the young leaves are con- nected by silken threads, a small green | te Ie caterpillar of different shades, varying. with its age, is found in or near the centre feeding upon the tender leaves, and sometimes a little family of four or five inhabit the same head. The head feelers and horns of our little moth are white, the latter with a few black spots near the tips; the thorax is cream-co- loured, the sides brown, upper wings lance-shaped, very pale clay brown, with whitish streaks. Perhaps the best method of-extirpating them would be to search for the young caterpillars between the leaves on the first symp- toms of their presence, and extracting them with a,small pair of forceps, such as are used for microscopic. objects ; but as some might be too.minute at that early period to be detected on the first search, this operation must be repeated. Pinching the maggots in the bud is also recommended as well as dusting the plants with flower of sulphur, which I fear would be of little use. I think, however, that a portable frame might be constructed and covered with tarred or painted canvas, which could be placed over a bush or small bed of flowers, when it is attacked by insects ; and it would then be easy to fumigate any plant by means of an aperture with a tube of leather or any pliable mate- rial which could be tied or plugged up, so as to keep in the smoke of tobacco, or even of sulphur, which last would in ten minutes destroy every living ani- mal within the inclosed space.??—Gard. Chron. TIPULA.. Crane Fly or Daddy-long: legs. T. oleracea, the grubs or * leather jackets,”? so injurious to the market gardener, are its larve. They attack the roots of scarlet beans, lettuces, dahlias, potatoes, &c., from May to August. During the last month and September they become pupe. Mr. Curtis observes, that—‘‘ It is said that lime water will not kill them, and sug- gests that if quicklime was scattered on ~ the ground at night, it would destroy them when they come to the surface to feed ; and all the gnats that are found on the walls, palings, ground or else- where, should be killed, especially the female, which would prevent any eggs being deposited in the ground. ture of lime and gas water distributed by a watering pot over grass, has com- pletely exterminated the larve, hiaties A mix- TAT: 590 TOM —_.—— they had been exceedingly destructive, and by sweeping the grass with a bag- net, like an angler’s landing net, only covered with canvas, immense numbers of the gnats might be taken and de- stroyed.?°—Gard. Chron. TITHONIA tagetiflora. Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings. Light rich soil.) TOBACCO. Nicotiana, whether in the form of snuff, or its decoction in water, or its smoke whilst burning, is very destructive to insects. Tobacco paper is paper saturated with the decoction of tobacco, and when burnt emits a fume nearly as strong. It is an easy mode of generating the smoke. Whenever plants are smoked they should be done so on two follow- ing nights, and then be syringed the following morning. Mr. Cameron says, —‘‘ I have always found tobacco paper the most efficacious substance to fumi- gate with for destroying the aphis with- out doing any injury to the plants; if the house is not filled too rapidly with smoke, and is allowed to reach the glass, without coming in contact with any of the plants, it then descends as it cools, without doing any injury. Plants fumigated in frames, or under hand-glasses, are most liable to be in- jured by the heat of the smoke, if not done cautiously. There is a spurious kind of tobacco paper sometimes offer- ed in spring by the tobacconists, appa- rently made to meet the increased de- mand, and this kind of paper will bring the leaves off plants, without killing many of the aphides. It is of a lighter color than the genuine sort, and may be readily detected by the smell being very different. Foliage should be per- fectly dry when a house is fumigated, and should not be syringed till next morning. If plants are syringed im- mediately after fumigation, many of the aphides will recover even where they have dropped off the plants, a fact which any one may soon prove after fumigating a house.?? — Gard. Chron. , r Another very simple mode of fumi- gating plants in frames, and under hand-glasses turned over them for the purpose, is as follows:—‘ Dissolve a tablespoonful of saltpetre in a pint of water; take pieces of the coarsest brown paper, six inches wide, and ten inches long, steep them thoroughly in | the solution, dry them and keep till wanted. To fumigate, roll one of the pieces into a pipe like a cigar, leaving the hollow half an inch in diameter, which fill with tobacco, twist one end and stick it into the soil, light the other, and it will burn gradually away for an hour or more.”? Tobacco smoke should not be ad- mitted to fruit trees when in bloom, nor when the fruit is ripening, as it imparts to them a flavour. See Fumi- gating. Ma ok Tobacco Water is usually made from what is known as Tobacconists? Liquor, being a liquor expressed by them, and full of ammonia and the acrid oil of the plant. To every gallon of this add five gallons of water. This mixture with Read’s garden syringe may be sprinkled over the trees, putting it on with the finest rose, and being careful to wet all the leaves. This operation is to be performed only in the hottest sunshine, as. the effect is then much greater than when the weather is dull; five gallons of liquor reduced as above stated, cleanses seventeen peach and nectarine trees, averaging seventeen feet in length, and twelve in height. The black glutinous aphis, provincially call- ed blight; so destructive to the cherry trees, and in fact every species of aphis, is destroyed in the same way with equal facility ; the grubs which attack the apricot, may be destroyed almost in-~ stantly by immersing the leaves infested in this liquor.—Gard. Mag. As the tobacconists? liquor cannot be obtained always, tobacco water may be, in such case, made by pouring half a gallon of boiling water upon one ounce of strong tobacco, and allowing it to re- main until cold, and then strained. © TOCOCA. Two species. Stove ever- green trees. Cuttings. Peat and loam. TOCOYENA longiflora. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat and loam. . TODDALIA. Two species. Stove evergreen shrubs. © Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. " TODEA. Two species. Ferns. Green-house herbaceous perennials. Division or seeds. Loam and peat. TOLPIS. Five species. Hardy an- nuals. Seeds. Common soil. “TOMATO or Love-apple. This plant is a native of South America, and perhaps of the West Indies; thence in- TON 591 TOO -_-o— troduced into this country.. But a few ‘years since it was scarcely known as an esculent—now it is in very general use. ‘¢ There are six or seven varieties, between which there is not much real difference ; the common red is equal to an ee Cultivation same as directed for the Melongena, or Egg Plant. It is, how- ever, more free in growth, and will pro- duce fruit tolerably early, when sown on the open border. ‘On the approach of frost pull up some of the plants, (root and all,) which are well laden with fruit, and hang them up in a dry, airy apartment. In this manner it may be continued in perfec- tion for some time longer than the natu- ral season.””—Rural Reg. TONQUIN BEAN. Dipteriz. TOOL-HOUSE. Upon this too much neglected garden edifice, the editor has been favoured by Mr. Barnes; of Bicton Gardens, with the following excellent remarks :—‘* Have a place for every- thing, and everything in its place ;— kept in good condition, and at all times put away clean ;—for omission of which have rules and fines placed in each of the tool-houses, regularly enforced, and payment demanded for each fine on the Jabourers’ pay-day. At Bicton, a book is kept for entering each fine, and a separate account given of each fine, and for what, or why, it was enforced; an- nually, Lady Rolle doubles the amount so collected, and if good order has been kept, and only a small sum so collected, her ladyship trebles the amount. Tadd my own mite, and each foreman theirs, as a sort of compound for any matter that may have slipped our memories, &c.; the amount is then placed in the Savings Bank, as a reserve sum in case of illness, &c. We have the same order and regulation kept in each tool-shed,, that is to say, the tool-shed of each de- partment—that I need here describe only one. The tool-shed of the hot- house and flower-garden department is a lean-to shed atthe back ofa hot-house, substantially built, and covered with slate:—length, fifty-four feet; width, thirteen feet; height at back, fifteen feet; and height in front, nine feet; paved all through with Yorkshire flag- stones, which are neatly swept up every night, the last thing, and washed every Saturday, thoroughly. There is a door at each end, and one in the centre of the front wall, and a window on each side of the centre door. Strong beams are thrown across from front to back, and strong planks laid on them, which form a useful loft for placing mats, stakes, laths for tally making, brooms, nets, canvas for covering and shading, &c. &c. Within two feet of the roof, against the back wall, is placed a row of pegs the whole length of the shed, for hanging the long-handled tools, such as grass and leaf rakes, long-handled Dutch hoes and iron rakes, &c.; on the next row of pegs, the whole length of the shed, are placed the various kinds of draw hoes, tan forks, dung forks and prongs, strong forks for digging and surface stirring, spades and shovels of various kinds, pickaxes, mattocks and bills, dung drags, edging shears, &c.; on a third row of pegs, still lower, are placed the water pots, all numbered, with initials as well, thus—B, G—45, or 60, whatever the number may run to; underneath those is a row more of pegs, for placing the noses of the water pots—thus the back wall is furnished. The front wall, half way, is furnished with shelves for placing shreds and nails, rope yarn, tallies, flower pegs, whetstones, rubber or scythe-stones, and many other small articles. Under- neath those shelves are pegs for hang- ing the hammers, axes, saws, hatchets, mallets and stake-drivers, trowels, hand- forks, reels and lines, hedge-clipping shears, scythes, chisels, the~ various sizes of one-handed crane-necked hoes, crowbars, mops, hair-brushes and brooms, and various other . articles. The scythes are hung up over the end beam, and on the other side without shelves the hand-barrows are placed ; birch and heath brooms, both round and fan-shaped, that are in daily use; and various other articles. The garden rules ‘are hung in a conspicuous place; also in the tool-house. Every tool is to be put into its proper or allotted place, every night, thoroughly cleansed; any omission of which subjects the defaulter toa fine. Each tool-house is under the same system. We have separate wheel- barrow sheds; sheds for placing soils in the dry, arranged in old casks; varieties of sand, pebbles, and flints, for potting purposes, with lofts over for flower pot stowage ;—a shed for the liquid manure casks, which is one of the most essen- tial and valuable of all. A shed for TOR 592 TRA ed placing the charred articles of all kinds, equal to the last ; a potting shed; ‘mush- room shed; stove shed ; frait rooms, and onion lofts, &c. &eu-Bach and all are kept under the above regulations.” TORENIA scabra and cordifolia. Green-house evergreen shrubs.’ Seeds. Sandy loam. There are two other spe- cies not worth cultivating. TORTRIX. A genus of moths. T. luscana generates a red grub, and T. cynosbana a black-spotted green grub, both very destructive of blossom buds. T. vitisana. Vine Tortrix. Found on the vine in April and May; head yellow; upper wings marbled with rusty and gray colours. Caterpillars appear as the blossom buds open, which they unite with white threads. T. nigricana. Red Plum Grub Tor- trix. Moth black, appearing in June. Eggs deposited on the plum; grub, small red, pierces the fruit, and is found near the stone. Mr. Curtis observes, that—‘** If the plums that have fallen off be examined, a small red ‘caterpillar will be found ‘within it; the caterpillar being generally full grown when the plum falls off, soon creeps out, and penetrates the loose bark, forming a case in which it remains during the winter. Early in the spring it changes into a light brown pupa, and the moth | emerges about June. The moth is not so large as a house-fly; its wings are almost black, and when the sun is shining on them, they have a remarka- bly metallic lustre; on the outer edge of the fore wings there is an appearance of fine silver dust. Among the reme- dies proposed to lessen the ravages of this insect, it is recommended to shake the trees, and remove all the fruit that falls off; and another good method is to scrape the rough pieces of bark of the stem, under which the cocoons are concealed; this must :be done late in the autumn, or early in the spring.??— Gard. Chron. T. Bergmanniana. Rose Tortrix. Differs little to a common observer from the preceding. ‘* Where bushes are much infested with the larve of these insects, it is much better to cut them down and burn the shoots; this and hand-picking are the only remedies we are acquainted with. Care must be taken not to disturb the maggots when collecting them, for they will let them- | selves down by threads, and thus es- cape.??—Gard. Chron. T. ocellana. This is the parent of the red bud caterpillar, which destroys the buds of the apple and pear.- Upper wings gray, with a white transverse band. ~ T. Waeberiana. Plum tree Tortrix. Its larva feeds on the inner bark of the plum, apricot, almond, and peach. The grubs pierce holes through the bark, which may be detected by smal] heaps of red powder upon it. Moth brown ; grub greenish, with a red head. T. pomonana. Codling Moth. Its reddish-white grub is common in apples and pears. Moth light gray, streaked with dark gray. Seen of an evening during May, and the grubs appear soon after. All fallen apples should be de- stroyed, because they usually contain this or other grubs, which will otherwise produce moths, and multiply the evil. “<< T. turionana, T. hyrcyniana,. T. resinella, and T. buoliana, all infest pine trees, injuring them by depositing their eggs in the buds, which are sub- sequently preyed upon by their cater- pillars.°?—Kollar.—Gard. Chron. TOUCH-ME-NOT. Impatiens. TOURRETIA lappacea. Hardy climbing annual. Seeds. Light soil. TOWER MUSTARD. Arabis Tur- rita. ; TRACHELIUM ceruleum. Hardy herbaceous perennial. Seeds or cut- tings. Light soil. TRACHYMENE. Sixspecies. Green- house annuals; increased by seed, and green-house and stove evergreen shrubs, increased by young cuttings. Loam and sandy peat suits them all. TRACHYTELLA actaa. house evergreen climber. Green- Ripe cut-_ tings. Peatandloam. _ TRADESCANTIA. Twenty-seven species. Chiefly stove and hardy herb- aceous perennials. A few hardy an- nuals, and stove and green-house ever- green trailers. T. paniculata is a green- house biennial. 7’. tuberosa is a stove tuberous-rooted perennial. Division. The annuals, seeds. Rich light soil suits them all. ; TRAGOPOGON. Goat’s beard. Fif- teen species. Hardy biennials. Seeds. Common soil. T. porrifolius is the gar- den Salsafy. ; TRAGOPYRUM. Three species. . ‘ERX 593 TRA ———i— Hardy deciduous shrubs. Layers. Peat | in general to be produced, beyond that and sandy loam. ‘TRAILERS. See Creepers. ‘TRAIN OIL. See Animal Matters. TRAINING has for its object render- ing plants more productive either of flowers or of fruit, by regulating the number and position of their branches. If their number be too great, they over- shadow those below them, and by ex- ‘cluding the heat and light, prevent that elaboration of the sap required for the production of fructification.. Ifthey are too few, the sap is expended in the pro- duction of more, and in extending the surface of the leaves required for the digestion of the juices. The position of the branches is im- portant, because, if trained against a wall, they obtain a higher temperature, and protection from winds; and if trained with their points below the horizontal, the return of the sap is checked. -Shy-flowering shrubs, as Di- placus puniceus, are made to blossom abundantly, and freely-tlowering shrubs, as Cytisus hybridus, are made to blos- som earlier, by having their branches bent below the. horizontal line. Dr. _ Lindley, observing upon these facts, proceeds to remark, that—‘ If a stem is trained erect, it will be more vigorous than if placed in any other position, and its tendency to bear leaves rather -than flowers will be increased : in proportion as it deviates from the perpendicular is its vigour diminished. For instance, if a stem is headed back, and only two opposite buds are allowed to grow, they will continue to push equally, so long as their relation to the perpendicular is ‘the same; but if one is bent towards a horizontal direction, and the other-al- lowed to remain, the growth of the former will be immediately checked ; if the depression is increased, the weak- ness of the branch increases proportion- ally; and this may be carried on till the branch perishes. In training, this fact is of the utmost value in, enabling the gardener to regulate the symmetry of a tree. It, however, by no means follows, that because out of two contiguous branches, one growing erect, and the other forced into a downward direction, the latter may die, that all branches trained downwards will die. On the contrary, an inversion of their natural position is of so liitle consequence to of cansing a slow cireulation, and’ the formation of flowers.?°—Theory of Hort. The reason of this appears in the fact, that a plant propels its sap with greatest force perpendicularly, so much so that the sap rising in a vine branch growing ina right line from the root, with a force capable of sustaining a column of mer- cury twenty-eight inches high, will, if the branch be bent down to a right angle, support barely twenty- three inches, and if bent a few degrees be- low the horizontal, the column sustained will not be more than twenty-one inches. This is the reason why at such angles gardeners find the trained branches of their wall trees rendered more productive of blossoms, and fur- nished with a smaller surface of leaves. Fig. 167. A similar effect is produced by training a branch in.a waving form, for two- thirds of its length are placed horizon- tally, as in the accompanying outline. —Princ. of Gardening. On the practical parts of training, ‘Abercrombie has the following good directions :—— ‘¢ When it is intended to raise trained fruit-trees for walls and espaliers, some of the best young plants of the respect- ive sorts, both dwarf and halfstandards of one year old, with the first shoots from the budding and grafting entire, should. be transplanted in autumn, at eight or ten feet distance, against any | kind of fence having a south aspect, in their healthiness, that no effect seems/a free situation, not less than four or 38 TRA 594 TRA wees five feet high, either a wall, paling, reed-fence, &c. ‘¢ The trees thus planted, in spring following, just as they begin to make an effort for shooting, should be headed down; that is, the first shoots from the budding, &c., to be cut down to within three or four eyes or buds of its place of insertion in the stock, especially those intended for dwarfs; also the hal f-standards, if worked on tall stocks; and this heading down both prevents their running up too high with a single naked stem, branchless below, and causes them to throw out lateral shoots from the lower part, to fill the wall or espalier regularly with branches quite from the bottom upward ; for they will soon after push forth strong shoots from all the remaining lower buds, which shoots, when of due length, in summer, should be trained along to the fence, equally to the right and left, at full length, till next spring, when these shoots may also be cut down to six or eight inches’? length, to force out a further supply of more branches near the bottom. Continue shortening, more or less, the two or three first sprigs on the last summer’s shoots, as you shall see necessary, in order to obtain a pro- per spread of lower branches to give the tree its ieee form. Though this work of pruning short, to obtainJaterals, may also be performed occasionally in summer, in May, or earlyin June, on the strong young shoots of the year, cutting or pinching them down to a few eyes, and they will thereby fhrow out lower laterals the same season; and, by that means, a year’s growth is gained. Branches thus gained arrive to proper length in summer for training in; they should all be trained along close to the wall; and if any fore-right or back shoots come out, rub them all off close, Jeaving. the well-placed side shoots in every part; and let the whole, or as many as possible, be trained in during this season, to have plenty to choose from in the general pruning season of winter or spring—train equally to the right and left on each side of the tree, in a spreading somewhat horizontal manner, nowhere crossing one another, but at parallel distances, and mostly all at full length during — summer’s growth. ‘¢In the winter pruning we are to observe that, if more wood was trained up in summer than now appears neces- sary, or than can be trained in with due regularity, retrench such superfluities ; likewise any remaining fore-right or back shoots, and other irregular growths omitted in summer, not eligibly situated for training in, should also be now all pruned out, cutting everything of the above nature, both superabundances and irregularities, quite close to their origin, being careful, however, to leave all the regular, well - placed, useful shoots that can readily be trained with due regularity, without crowding or crossing one another, all of which should also be cleared from all lateral or side shoots, if any ; and with respect to their being shortened more or less, or left entire, you will order, according to your discretion, agreeably to the above-mentioned hints. ‘¢ Thus, having obtained a regular spread of branches sufficient to effect the proper expansion requisite to form a trained wall or espalier tree, they must then be pruned according to the method peculiar to each respective sort of fruit, as directed in their culture, each under its proper genus. Training espalier trees is effected exactly in the manner as above, only these may be also trained as they stand in the nurse- ry lines, in the open quarters or bor- ders, &c., by ranging some stout stakes in the ground, along one side of each tree. Where a general ]uxuriancy pre- vails, while under the course of train- ing, or after, it is advisable, in the work of pruning, to use the knife with mode- ration; for the more wood we cut out of a generally vigorous tree, and the more the shoots are shortened, the more vigorous will it continue to shoot with- out ever becoming properly fruitful ; and if severe cutting is repeatedly continued, the tree often exhausts so greatly by luxuriant shooting, that it suddenly assumes a weak consumptive state. Such trees as are vigorous only in particular shoots, may, in some cases, have such shoots radically, retrenched, and in others reserved; that if a very vigorous shoot runs considerably strong- er than all the rest, and seems to sup- ~ port its vigour at the expense of the others in its neighbourhood, it should be retrenched to the very origin, as early in summer as discoverable. In other cases, if a luxuriant shoot arise in any vacant space towards the bot- TRA 595 TRA ; tical sree: tom, especially where a supply of more wood is wanted, it may be retained, and pinched or topped down to a few eyes in May or June; it will send out several laterals below, the same sea- son; and instead of one rude luxuriant shoot, there will be four or five of mo- derate growth to fill the vacancy more effectually, and that will much sooner attain to fruitfulness.°°— Abercrombie. Besides the above usual modes of training —for which see also Walls, Espaliers, and Standards—there are. two other modes which deserve notice. Quenouiile Training <<‘ consists in training one upright central shoot in “summer, and shortening it down to fifteen inches at the winter pruning, in order that it may, at that height, pro- duce branches forming a tier, to be trained, in the first instance, horizon- tally. The shoot produced by the up- permost bud is, however, trained as upright as possible during the summer, and is cut back, so as to produce an- other tier fifteen inches above the first, and so on until the tree has reached the desired height. In this climate, it is necessary to train the shoot downwards, which, is easily done by tying those of the first tier to short stakes, those of each successive tier being’ fastened to the branches below them. When the shoots are thus arched downwards at full: length, or nearly so, they soon ¢eome into a bearing state; but in this climate, if cut short, as the French do, they only send up a number of shoots annually. The plan answers very well where it can be at all times properly attended to; but if this cannot be guaranteed, the ordinary form of dwarf is preferable. Quenouilles require more time to be devoted to them than espaliers.°?>—Gard. Chron. Balloon Training.—On this mode I merely extract the following from Dr. Lindley’s Theory of Horticulture :— «¢ What are called balloon apples and pears, are formed by forcing downwards all the branches of standard trees till the points touch the earth, and they have the merit of producing large crops of fruit in a very small compass; their upper parts are, however, too much exposed to radiation at night, and the crop from that part of the branches is apt to-be cut off. One of the prettiest applications of this principle is that of Mr. Charles Lawrence, described in the Gardener’s Magazine, viii. 680, by means of which standard rose trees are converted into masses of flowers. The figure given in that work represents the variety called the ‘ Bizarre de la Chine,’ which flowers most abundantly to the ends of its branches, and was truly a splendid object.?? TRANSPLANTING is most success- fully performed, whenever the roots are least required for supplying the leaves ~ with moisture. The reason is obvious, because the roots are always in some degree broken, and lessened in their absorbing power, by the process of removal. Now the leaves require least moisture in the autumn and winter, therefore, these are the seasons when transplanting is effected with least in- jury to.a plant. That such is the ra- tionale of seasonable transplanting is proved by the fact that pots in plants, with reasonable care, may be trans- planted at any season. This rule, too, is sanctioned both by theory and prac- tice — transplant as early as possible after the leaves cease to require a sup- ply of sap, the reason for which is, that the vital powers in the roots con- tinue active long afterthey have become torpid in the branches and fresh roots are formed during the autumn and winter, to succeed those isis 2S by transplanting. ‘If the months of November and December,’ says Dr. Lindley, ‘“‘ are the most favourable for transplanting deciduous trees, and March and April the worst, how much more important must be those periods to evergreens. An evergreen differs from a deciduous plant in this material cireumstance, that it has no season of rest; its leaves re- main alive and active during the winter, and, consequently, it is in a state of perpetual growth. Ido not mean that it is always lengthening itselfin the form of new branches, for this happens peri- odically only in evergreens, and is usu- ally confined to the spring ; but that its circulation, perspiration, assimilation, and production of roots are incessant. Such being the case, an evergreen, when transplanted, is liable to the same ‘risks as deciduous plants in full leaf, with one. essential difference. The leaves of evergreens are provided with a thick hard epidermis, which is tender and readily permeable to aqueous ex- _ halations only when quite young and TRA 596 TRA —_o——_- which becomes very firm and tough by the arrival of winter, whence the rigi- dity always observable in the foliage of evergreen trees and. shrubs. Such a coating as this is capable, in a much less degree than one of a thinner tex- ture, such as we find upon deciduous plants, of parting with aqueous vapour ; and, moreover, its stomates are few, small, comparatively in active, and chiefly confined to the under side, where they are less exposed to dryness that if they were on the upper side also. ‘¢ But although evergreens, from their structure, are not liable to be affected by the same external circumstances as deciduous plants in the same degree ; and although, therefore, transplanting an evergreen in leaf is not the same thing as transplanting a deciduous tree in the same condition, yet it must be obvious that the great extent of perspir- ing surface upon the one, however low its action, constitutes much difficulty, superadded to whatever difficulty there may be in the other case. «« Hence we are irresistibly driven to the conclusion that whatever care is re- quired in the selection of a suitable season damp, and not too cold for a deciduous tree, is still mere essential for an evergreen.””»—Theory of Hort. It sometimes happens that transplant- ing has to be performed at the most in- auspicious seasons; and when this is the case the following directions, given by Mr. Williamson, of the Sheffield Bo- tanic Garden, may be followed with success :— «< At the Sheffield Botanical Gardens we have for some time praetised what | we term the washing in-system, which has been attended with success in every instance. Indeed, I doubt not that by this method trees of considerable size may be removed, at any season of the year, with safety. Towards the latter end of last May I had occasion to form a block or screen, in a situation fully exposed to the sun, for which purpose I transplanted a number of tall trees and evergreens, not one of which was injured by the removal]; and early this May we disposed of upwards of a dozen large horse-chestnuts, Spanish ditto, | limes, sycamore, and birches, all from ten to eighteen feet high, in full leaf, to a gentleman in this neighbourhood, the planting of which I superintended. All at this time (a fortnight subsequently) | exhibit no appearance of having been removed. In the first place, we make the hole where the tree is intended to be placed sufficiently large for the roots to be extended at full length; and, in removing the tree, great care is taken to avoid cutting or injuring the roots. If a ball of earth is retained so much the better, as it will assist in steadying the tree; but, if well staked, it is not of much importance. As it is essential that the roots be as little exposed to the atmosphere as possible, we previde sufficient earth, either sifted er finely reduced by a spade or rake, and have in readiness as many buckets of water as will nearly fill the hole; the tree is then placed in its intended position ; the whole of the water is then thrown over the roots, the fibres of which will be supported by it. The fine earth is then expeditiously sprinkled over the surface of the water, and, gradually subsiding, fills all the interstices, and gives sta- bility to the-tree, which is further se- cured by three stakes placed at right angles, which finishes the operation. The earth must not be trodden, as is often done.?»—Gard. Chron. The following. observations, in the Gardener’s Chronicle, so epitomize all that is practically essential in trans- planting, that itis extracted with little abbreviation :— ‘Jn the removal of large trees or shrubs, first form the pit, where the plant is to be planted, from twelve to fourteen inches wider than the roots will reach. ‘¢ In lifiing laurels, and other ever- greens, always bind up the plant with - strong straw ropes, tying one end of the rope to one of the strong branches in the centre of the plant, and, taking up all the branches, draw into as small a compass as possible, without injuring the plant. Clear the roots, and, sup- posing the plant to be a common laurel, six or eight feet high, begin as many feet from the. main stem, and eut a trench round the plant at the said dis- tance, as deep as it may be supposed the roots have gone down ; then reduce the ball by degrees with a fork, clean- ing out the soil with a spade, and taking care not to injure any of the roots or fibres. These tie up in trusses with matting, in order to prevent them; as much as possible, from being” injured. Clear the roots to within two or three TRA feet of the main stem, and then under- mine the solid piece that is left. ‘* When the plant is ready for re- moval, the strength for lifting it will depend upon its size, and the weight of the ball left, if any. When the. plant ‘is brought to the pit and placed in the centre of it, untie the roots, and dress with a sharp knife any that may have been bruised. Shorten strong ones, that they may make young fibres, upon which the welfare of the plant in a great measure depends. After dressing the roots, lay them all carefully out round the pit. If there are one, two, or three layers of roots, as is often the case, keep each layer by itself, and lay out the ‘undermost first, taking care to spread out every fibre with the hand. On these spread well-broken soil; but in doing this, care must be taken not to club the roots together. After the first layer of roots is well covered proceed with the next, and so on until all is finished. «¢ After transplanting, never give the plants water oftener than once, which is immediately after the operation of planting is performed. Many young trees and shrubs are destroyed (after having been transplanted) by the fre- quent application of water in dry weather. After the roots are all well covered, leave the pit three or four inches unfilled, and apply the water according to the state of the soil, and size of the plant. To a shrub, that covers about four square yards of ground (if the soil is not very moist), give about eight common sized water- ing potfuls, and so on for every square yard of ground covered. The only treading to be permitted is merely what may take place in going round them in taking away the rope and spreading out the branches in their original position. The above remarks apply well to the common and Portugal Jaurel, and also to deciduous trees and shrubs in gene- ral. A few kinds that are difficult to _remove without balls when they are large plants, are the following :—the holly is one that is impatient of being removed without a ball, and in free light soils it will not liftwith one. The best method with it is this. Two years before removal, open a trench round the plant about two feet from the main stem (more or less, according to its size). Two feet will do for a plant six feet high. Go as deep as there are roots, 597 TRA and cut clean off all those outside of the ball, and again fill in the soil. In about two years afterwards, the cut roots will have made firm young fibres, which supply the plant with food when it is transplanted. In lifting them, al- ways try to get a good ball with them. The Laurestinus is not very fond of being removed without a ball. There are but very few of the fir tribe that can be transplanted after they have attained the height of from six to sixteen feet; but the best are the silver, the spruce, and the Weymouth pines. The silver fir bears transplanting tolerably well, provided care is taken not to injure the roots, which run horizontally near the surface. The spruce lifts well, even when sixteen feet high; and the Wey- mouth pines from ten to twelve feet high. In lifting them always try to get good balls with them, keeping their roots as entire as possible, and making the pits wherein they are to be planted large, so as to get all their roots spread out as regularly as possible; when covered, water in the same manner as evergreen shrubs. In lifting and trans- planting hard-wooded trees, such as oaks, &c., keep their roots as entire as possible, and shorten in any strong ones ; they should be well watered. It is very essential to the welfare of plants that have been transplanted to have them well supported to prevent them from shaking with the wind, &c. For trees from ten to twenty feet high, use three poles, set up in the form of a tri- ‘angle ; roll a straw rope round the stem of the tree, for the poles to rest on, as it prevents them from hurting the bark ; then, after tying the poles firmly to the tree, and fixing them in the ground, the work is finished. For plants of smaller size use small rope, tied in the same manner to the tree, and fixed to stakes driven into the ground, after the man- ner of tent ropes. <‘No doubt the summer months are not proper for transplanting, therefore it should be avoided if possible. From October to April, all shrubs, &c., may be lifted with safety. November is: preferable for lifting large plants, as those planted about that time always send out young roots during winter; frequently by February, from one to three inches long.— Gard. Chron. TRAPA. Four species. Aquatic plants. Green-house, stove, and hardy TRA annuals and biennials. Seeds. Rich loamy soil, in water. TRAVELER’S JOY. ' Clematis vi- talba. TRAVELER’S JOY. Clematis vi- ornda. ; TREACLE MUSTARD. Clypeola. TREE CELANDINE. Bocconia fru- tescens. TREE GUARDS. The following are cheap and effectual: Mr. W. Brown, gardener at Merevale Hall, uses stakes about the thickness of the wrist, seven feet in length, and tolerably straight: he chops each a little flat on one side, gets some iron hooping a little thicker than coopers are in the habit of using for barrels; he punches holes through it six inches apart (with one near each end), nails it to the stakes on the chop- ped side, one foot from the top of them, and one foot from the bottom; then raises it and bends it circularly round the tree, observing that the hoops are placed inside nearest the tree; the holes left at each end of the hoop are then clenched up with a nail, and the guard is then complete.—Gard. Chron. ’ The following plan is somewhat simi- Jar :—‘‘ Procure stakes of ash or larch, six feet in length, or more if requisite, and about two inches in diameter, and bore holes through the tops and bot- toms, about one foot from each end. Get a similar hole drilled up the centre of a stake, and saw it off in lengths of two inches, or rather less; pass a strong wire or thick tarred string through one stake, by the holes, at the top and at the. bottom, then pass it through the hole made in one of the two inch pieces at each end, and then through another stake, separating each stake at top and bottom by a piece of wood, until you leave enough to surround the tree loosely, leaving plenty of space for growth. Place it round the tree, and fasten the ends of the wire or string. This guard is much the same as a cradle put round the neck of a blistered horse, to prevent his gnawing the irritated part. The stakes merely rest on the ground, and should be cut quite flat at the bottom, to prevent their sticking into the ground. At the upper end they should have a sharp slanting cut with a bill-hook, and threaded with the slope towards the tree. The motion of the tree will not in any degree be impeded ; and the bark cannot be injured, let the 598 pa i rh, ~~ MA Pak Ly TRE wind blow as it may, for the guard moves freely with the tree in every di- rection.””—Gard. Chron. TREES are a chief material in land-— scape gardening. Trees and shrubs are of different shapes, colours, and growths. ‘¢ The varieties in their shapes,”? says Mr. Whateley, ‘‘ may be reduced to the following heads. ‘Some thick with branches and foliage have almost an appearance of solidity, as the beach, the elm, the lilac, and seringa. Others thin of boughs and of leaves, seem light and airy, as the ash, and the arbele, the common arbor vite, and the tamarisk. ‘¢ There is a mean betwixt the two ex- tremes, very distinguishable from both, as in the bladder-nut, and the ashen- leaved maple. They may again be di- vided into those whose branches begin from the ground, and those which shoot up in a stem before their branches begin. Trees which have some, and not much clear stem, as several of the firs, belong to the former class; but a very short stem will rank as a shrub, such as the althea in the latter. ‘¢ Of those whose branches begin from the ground, some rise in a conical figure, as the larch, the cedar of Lebanon, and the holly. Some swell! out in the mid- dle of their growth, and diminish at both ends, as the Weymouth pine, the moun- tain ash, and the lilac; and some are irregular and bushy from the top to the bottom, as the evergreen oak, the Vir- ginian cedar, and Guelder rose. There isa great difference between one whose base is very large, and another whose base is very small, in proportion to its height; the cea of Lebanon and the cypress, are instances of such a differ- ence, yet in both the branches papain from the ground. ‘‘ The heads of those which shoot up into a stem, before their branches be- gin, sometimes are slender cones, as of many firs, sometimes are broad cones, as of the horse-chestnut, sometimes they are round, as of the stone pine, and most sorts of fruit trees; and sometimes irregular, as of the elm. Of this last kind there are many considerable va- rieties. ‘The branches of some grow hori- | zontally, as of the oak. In others they tend upwards, as in the almond, and in several sorts of broom, and of willows. In others they fall, as in the lime and TRE 599 TRE s iti! the acacia; and in some of these last|dark green. The dark green must be ‘they incline obliquely, as in many of the firs; in some they hang directly down, _as in the weeping willow. ‘‘ These are the most obvious great distinctions in the shapes of trees and shrubs. The difference between shades of green cannot be so considerable, but . these also will be found well deserving of attention. ‘Some are of a dark green, as the horse-chestnut and the yew. Some ofa light green, as the lime and the laurel. Some of a green tinged with brown, as -the Virginian cedar. Some of a green tinged with white, as the arbele and the sage tree. And some ofa green tinged with yellow, as the ashen-leaved maple and the Chinese arbor vite. The varie- gated plants also are generally entitled to be classed with the white or the yel- low, by the strong tincture of the one or the other of those colours on their leaves. ‘s The fall of the leaf is the time to learn the species, the order, and the proportion of tints, which blended, will form beautiful masses; and, on the other hand, to distinguish those which are in- compatible near together. ‘‘ The peculiar beauty of the tints of red, cannot then escape observation, and the want of them throughout the summer months must be regretted ; but the want, though it cannot perfectly, may partially be supplied, for- plants have a permanent and an accidental colour. The permanent is always some shade of green, but any other may be the accidental colour; and there is none which so many circumstances concur to produce asared. It is assumed in suc- cession by the bud, the blossom, the berry, the bark, and the leaf. Some- times it profusely overspreads, at other times it dimly tinges the plant, and a reddish-green is generally the hue of those plants on which it lasts long or frequently returns. ‘‘ Admitting this, at least for many _ months in the year, among the charac- teristic distinctions, a large piece of red- green, with a narrow edging of dark green, along the further side of it, and beyond that, a piece of light green, stil] Jarger than the first, will be found to compose a beautiful mass. Another, not less. beautiful, is a yellow green, nearest to the eye, beyond that a light green, then a brown green, and lastly a the largest, the light green the next in extent, and the yellow green the least of all. «From those combinations, the agree- ments between particular tints may be known. A light green may be next either to a yellow or a brown green, and a brown to a dark green; all in consider- able quantities, and a little rim of dark green may border on a red or a light green. ¢¢ Further observations will show, that the yellow and the white greens connect easily; but that large quantities of the light, the yellow, or the white greens, do not mix well with a Jarge quantity - also of the dark green; and that to form a pleasing mass, either the dark green must be reduced to a mere edging, ora brown or an intermediate green must be interposed; that the red, the brown, and the intermediate greens agree among themselves, and that either of them may be joined to any other tint; but that the red green will bear a larger quantity of the light than of the dark green near it; nor does it seem so proper a mixture with the white green as with the rest. In massing these tints, an attention must be constantly kept up to their forms, that they do not lie in large stripes one. beyond another ; but that either they be quite intermingled, or, which is gene- rally more pleasing, that considerable pieces of different tints, each a beautiful figure, be in different proportions placed near together. ‘«¢ Exactness in the shapes must not be attempted, for it cannot be preserved ; ‘but if the great outlines be well drawn, little variations afterwards occasioned by the growth of the plants, will not spoil them. Another effect attainable by the aid of the different tints, is found- ed on the first principles of perspective; objects grow faint as they retire from the eye; a detached clump or a single tree of the lighter green will, therefore, seem farther off than one equidistant of a darker hue, and a regular gradation from one tint to another will alter the apparent length of a continued planta- tion, according as the dark or the light greens begin the graduation. «¢ Single trees scattered about a lawn, cast it into an agreeable shape, and to produce that shape, each must be placed with an attention to the rest; they may stand in particular directions, and col- TRE 600 TRE pene lectively form agreeable figures, or be- | tween several straggling trees, little glades may open full of variety and beauty. The lines they trace are fainter than those which larger plantations de- scribe, but then their forms are their own; they are therefore absolutely free from al] appearance of art; any dispo- sition of them, if it be but iting is sure to be natural. ‘¢ The situations of single trees, is the first consideration, and differences in the distances between them, their great- est variety. In shape, they admit of no choice but that which their species afford: greatness often, beauty often, sometimes mere solidity, and now and then peculiarity alone, recommends them. Their situations will also fre- quently determine the species; if they are placed before a continued line of. wood only to break it, they should com- monly be similar to the trees in that wood, they will else lose their connec- tion, and not affect the outline which they are intended to vary; but if they are designed to be independent objects, they are assuch more discernible, when distinguished both in their shapes and their greens, from any plantations about them. After all, the choice, especially in large scenes, is much confined to the trees on the spot; young clumps from the first have some, and soon produce a considerable effect ; but a young single tree for many years has none at all, and it is often more judicious to preserve one already growing, though not exactly such as might be wished, either in itself or in its situation, than to plant in its stead another, which may be a finer object, and better placed, in a distant futurity.2? See Clump, Avenue, Grove and Wood. TREE MALLOW. Lavateraarborea. TREE OF SADNESS. Nyctanthes arbor tristis. TREE or CANADA ONION. Allium proliferum. This, like the Ciboule, is without a bulbous root, but throws out numerous offsets. Its top bulbs are greatly prized for pickling, being con- sidered of superior flavour to the com- mon onion for that purpose, as well as others in which that species is employed. Time and Mode of Planting.—It is propagated both by the root offsets, which may be planted during March and April, or in September and October, and from the top bulbs, which are best planted in spring. The old roots are best to plant again for a crop of bulbs, as they are most certain to run to stems. If the bulbs be planted earlier than as above directed, they are apt to push up the same season and exhaust themselves, without producing either good offsets or bulbs ; but, on the other hand, by planting the old roots in the previous autumn, or early in the spring, they will produce good bulbs the same year. They must be inserted in rows twelve inches asunder, in holes six inches apart and two deep, a single offset or bulb being put in each. Those planted in autumn will shoot up leaves early in the spring, and have their bulbs fit for gathering in June or the beginning of July; those inserted in the spring, will make their appearance later, and will be in production at the close of July or early in August; they must not, however, be gathered for keeping or planting until the stalks de- cay, at which time, or in the spring © also, if only of one year’s growth, the roots may be taken up and parted if required for planting; but when of two or three years’ continuance, they must at all events be reduced in size, other- wise they grow in two large and spin- dling bunches; but the best plan is to make a fresh plantation annually with single offsets. The only cultivation necessary is to keep them clear of weeds; and when the stems run up, to give them the support of stakes. The bulbs, when gathered, must be gradually and carefully dried in a shady place ; and if kept perfectly free from moisture, will continue in a good state until the following May. TRELLIS or TREILLAGE, is an arrangement of supporters upon which to train plants. Espalier Trellis.—The cheapest, the easiest, and soonest made, is that formed with straight poles or stakes, of ash, oak, or chestnut, in lengths of from five to six or seven feet, driving them in the ground in a range about a foot distant, all of an equal height; and then railed along the top with the same kind of poles or rods, to preserve the whole form in aregular position. They should be full an inch and a half thick, and having pointed them at one end, drive them with a mallet into the ground in a straight range, close along the row of trees, a foot deep at least. To render TRE 601 TRE —_@—— treillage still stronger, run two, three, _or more ranges of rods, along the back part of the uprights, a foot or eighteen inches asunder, fastening them to the upright stakes, either with pieces of strong wire twisted two or three times round, or by nailing them. When the treillage is finished, it is advisable to paint the whole to render it both more beautiful and durable ; and the durability is greatly increased by charring the ends of the uprights before driving them into the soil. Espalier ,Trellis made of cast iron rods, is much more durable, and neater, than that made of wood. . Trellis for Climbers. — These have been greatly improved, or rather created within these few years, for ten years ago we had nothing but stakes and rods. The following observations and designs are from the Gardener’s Chronicle :— “*The beauty of green-houses has been wonderfully increased, by the contrivance of compelling these un- manageable rambling scrambling plants, to grow down upon themselves, or ~ round and round a circular trellis, so as to be compelled to clothe themselves all over with foliage, and to present immediately to the eye whatever flow- ers they produce. Every one who has ever witnessed the exhibitions in the garden of the Horticultural Society, must have been struck with the extra- ordinary beauty of the Russelias, and Tropeolums, Lichyas, and Hardenber- gias, red, yellow, crimson, and blue, which have graced the stands of even the least extensive growers. It is not because some climbing plants require to have their roots confined in garden pots, nor because being, in the ma- jority of cases, inhabitants of tropical forests, they demand more bottom-heat than they can obtain in this country, when planted in the open border of a conservatory that the modern plan of distributing their branches over the trellis of a flower-pot, is to be so much commended. Nor is it because the flowers, which if the branches are un- controlled, are carried out of sight by the excessive length of the stems, are thus brought immediately before the eye; but there is another great advan- tage in this practice. Gardeners need not be told that the immediate effect of |. compelling branches to grow down- wards is to make them bloom. This was effected over the walls of Sir Joseph Banks’? house; and as those branches were always loaded with fruit, the practice was soon imitated, and gave rise, among other things, to what is called balloon training. This produces an abundance of flowers, in the most sterile trees, and of fruit, when the branches are not exposed to severe night frosts, which kill the blossoms. Just the same consequences follow the training of climbing plants downwards ; they are compelled to yield a far greater crop of flowers than if permitted to grow at full length. The many kinds of trellises that have been invented for this purpose, are admirably adapted for compelling plants to grow upside down; for the-branches can be bent in all di- rections, over and over again, and the more they are entangled, the prettier. is the effect produced. Fig. 168. Fig. 169. TRE 602 a admirably adapted for Gompholobium, Tropeolum tricolor, and other plants possessed of. scanty foliage, whose branches require to be closely trained to produce a good effect. “The following cut will show the|. manner in which the wire-trellis for climbing plants, is attached to the pots, a matter of great importance, and of which the separate plans that have|_ _ been proposed, and some of which are published, convey an incorrect idea. Fig. 170. ‘It will be seen that a strong wire ring is carried round the pot, a little above its bottom. To this a sufficient number of upright wires are attached all round. The upright wires are pressed down upon the surface of the pot, till they reach the rim, over which they are firmly bent till they reach the highest point of the rim, or are even bent a little within it. At this point they are secured by a second ring of stout wire, adjusted as in the drawing, which having been done, the uprights are directed upwards, and fashioned into the pattern required. By these means, a sort of collar is formed upon the rim of the pot, which prevents the trellis from slipping downwards, while at the same itime, the lowest ring of wire keeps it from swinging and sway- ing backwards and forwards.”—Gard. Chron. Umbrella Trellis is a form excellently adapted for Wisteria sinensis, and other climbers or shrubs having long racemes of flowers. The following (Fig. 171) is its form. Hothouse Trellis for training vines near the glass, is usually made of thin rods of deal or of iron, placed about a foot apart, and fastened to the frame- work of the building. Mr. Long, Beau- TEN \ SSS NES MM AAI SSS SSS SES SS SSS S LAST fort Place, Chelsea, has invented a movable wire trellis, by which the vines may be lowered from the roof, or placed at any angle, without injuring the vines. This is an excellent mode of removing them from the influence of extreme ex- terior heat or cold. A still further im- provement would be to have the verti- cal rods movable round the rod horizon- tally fixed to the rafter or roof, for then the whole trellis might be raised to an angle with, or even close to the glass, whenever sun to the vine upon the trel- lis, or. shade to the plants within the house was desirable. Trellis for Walks.—The following observations made by Mr. Loudon, when criticising the gardens of Lord Selsey, at Westdean, comprise all that need be said upon this kind of struc- ture. ‘¢ Among the contrivances adopted for giving interest to the walks, and to separate one scene from another, are portions of walk covered with arched trellis work. One of these is grown over with climbing roses ; another with laburnums, which in the flowering sea- son has a remarkably fine aspect, few colours looking so well in the shade as yellow, because, with the. exception of white, none suffer:so little from the ab- sence of light. This laburnum trellis has a new feature, that of a table bor- der of trellis work intended to be co- vered with ivy; we have no, doubt its effects will be good, especially in win- ter. We must remark some circum- stances in the construction of garden TRE 603 TRI ——$—— trellises, which should be ample in their dimensions, strictly geometrical in all their forms, and, most accurately and substantially executed. Nothing can be more miserable in its effect on the eye than a low narrow archway, the support leaning in different directions, and the curve of the ground plan and of the roof in no marked style of determinate line. The most accurate carpentry and ~ smithwork ought always to be employed in such structures, otherwise they had much better be omitted as garden deco- rations. Some attempt forming trel- lises over walks with long hazel rods, but nothing can be meaner than the effect: such rod trellis works or ar- bours are at best fit for a cottage gar- den, or a hedge alehouse.??—Gard. Mag. TREMBLING ASPEN. Populus tremula. TRENCHING is one of the readiest modes in the gardener’s power for re- novating his soil. conducted :— ‘‘From the end of the piece of ground where it is intended to begin, take out a trench two spades deep, and ‘twenty inches wide, and wheel the earth to the opposite end to fill up and finish the last ridge. Measure off the width of another trench, then stretch the line and mark it out with the spade. Proceed in this way until the whole of the ridges are outlined, after which begin at one end and fill up the bottom of the first trench with the surface or ‘top spit’ of the second one ; then take the bottom ‘spit? of the latter, and throw it in such a way over the other as to form an elevated sharp-pointed ridge. By this meansa portion of fresh soi] is annually brought on the surface to the place of that which the crop of the past season may have in some mea- sure exhausted.?’—Gard. Chron. Bastard-Trenching is thus perform- ed :— ‘Open a trench two feet and a half or a yard wide, one full spit, and the shoveling deep, and wheel the soil from it to where it is intended to finish the piece, then put in the dung and dig it in with the bottom spit in the trench, then fill up this trench with the top spit, &c., of the second, treating it in like manner, and so on. The advan- tages of this plan of working the soil are, the good soil is retained at top, an The process is thus | important consideration where the sub- soil is poor or bad, the bottom soil is enriched and loosened for the penetra- tion and nourishment of the roots, and allowing them to descend deeper, they are not so liable to suffer from drought in ‘summer; strong soil is rendered ca- pable of absorbing more moisture, and yet remains drier at the surface by the water passing down more rapidly to the subsoil, and it ensures a thorough shifting of the soil.”—Gard. Chron. In all trenching, whether one, two, or more spades deep, always, previous to digging, put the top of each trench two or three inches deep or more, with all weeds and other litter at the bottom of the open one, which not only makes clean digging, and increases the depth of loose soil, but all weeds and their seeds are regularly buried at such a depth, that the weeds themselves will rot, and their seeds cannot vegetate. TREVIRANIA. See Achimenes. TREVIRANIA pulchella. Stove herbaceous perennial. rich soil. TREVOA. Two species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. TREWIA nudiflora. Stove ever- green shrub. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. TRIBULUS. Eight species. Green- house and hardy trailing annuals or stove evergreen trailers; the annuals increase by seeds, and common soil will suit them ; the evergreens increase by cuttings or seeds, and grow best in loam and peat. | TRICHOCEPHALUS. Three spe- cies. Greenhouse evergreen shrubs. Young cuttings. Sandy peat. TRICHOCLADUS crinitus. Green- house evergreen shrub. Young cut- tings. Sandy loam and peat. TRICHOMANES. Two species. Ferns. Hardy and stove herbaceous perennials. Division or seeds. Loam and peat. TRICHONEMA. Sixteen species. Green-house, hardy. and _half-hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets. Sandy loam and peat. TRICHOPETALUM gracile. Half- hardy herbaceous perennial. Division. Light rich soil. TRICHOPILIA fortilis. Stove epiphyte. Division. Wood with a lit- tle moss on the roots. Division. Light TRI 604 TRO —_~—— TRICHOSANTHES anguina. Snake Gourd. Frame trailing annual. Seeds. Common soil. ; . Two -TRICHOSTEMA. species. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. TRICORYNE. Three species. Greenhouse herbaceous perennials, ex- cept 7. simplex, a green-house biennial increased by seeds, the other two by division ; alight rich soil suits them all. TRIDENTIA. Seven species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and brick rubbish. TRIENTALIS. Two species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division or seeds. Light rich soil. TRIFOLIUM. Trefoil or Clover. One hundred and two species. All hardy, chiefly annuals, some herba- ceous perennials, and a few deciduous, herbaceous, and annual)trailers. Di- vision or seeds. Common soil. TRIGONIDIUM. Four species. Stove orchids. Division. TRIGUERA ambrosiaca. Hardy an- nual. Seeds. . Common soil. TRILLIUM. Fifteen species. Hardy tuberous-rooted perennials. Division or seeds. Peaty soil. M. F. Otto observes, that—‘* Seven species are cultivated in our gardens, namely: Trillium sessile; T. erythro- carpum; T.pusilium; T. cernuum; T. erectum; T. pendulum; and T. grandi- florum. Their cultivation is very sim- ple. They grow freely in the open air without covering, in shady places, and in a mixture composed of marsh or heath soil, mixed with river sand. They bloom abundantly every year, in April and May, and are a great ornament to our gardens; the tuberous roots spread rapidly by the formation of lateral eyes, so that after some years, if the plants have not been removed, they will form large handsome bushes. The seeds ripen in August, and if sown imme- diately, they will come up the following year. They may be sown either in the open ground, in a shady peat border, or in pots. The stronger seedlings will bloom in the third season.”—Gard. Chron. TRIOPTERIS. Two species. Stove evergreen twiners. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat. . TRIPH ANIA pronuba. Yellow Un- derwing Moth. Mr. Curtis says that “its caterpillar is hatched in July or August, and if the egg has been depo- Fibrous peat. sited in a cabbage or cauliflower, the young larva immediately eats its way to the centre, on which it feeds till it is. full grown, when it is about two inches long, greenish or brownish green in colour, with two rows of black spots on the back. -During the winter, it lies beneath stones or clods of earth, and in April or May it descends a few inches below the surface, where it changes to a reddish pupa, from which the perfect moth emerges in June or July. The moth varies in size from two to two and a half inches: the upper wings- are brownish or grayish, with an indistinct kidney-shaped spot near the centre; the lower wings are bright yellow, with a narrow black band. The moth varies considerably in its colour and markings, scarcely two individuals ever being ex- actly alike. The caterpillar, though it most frequently is found on the cabbage or cauliflower, yet sometimes does con- siderable mischief to celery, and even the young leaves and flower-buds. of auriculas, primroses, and violets are destroyed by it. The only remedy we can suggest is to search for and destroy them.?*—Gard. Chron. TRIPHASIA trifoliata. Green-house evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings. Turfy loam and peat. TRIPTILION. Two species. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. TRISTANIA. Eight species. Green- house evergreen trees and shrubs. Half ripe cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. TRITELEIA. Three species. Half- hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets or seeds. Peat, loam, and sand. TRITOMA. Four species. Hardy or halfhardy herbaceous. perennials. Suckers. Light rich soil. TROCHETIA grandiflora. Stove evergreen shrub. a Rich light loam. TROCHOCARPA Jaurina. Green- house evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandy peat and turfy soil. TROLLIUS. Globe Flower. Seven species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division or seeds. Light moist soil. - TROMOTRICHE. Five species. Stove evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and brick rubbish. TROPASOLUM. Nasturtium. Four- teen species. Green-house hardy and half-hardy annuals, and twiners. J. brachyceras and T. tube- rosum are half-hardy tuberous-rooted evergreen - seeds only, and common soil. TRO 605 TRO ——————— perennials. The green-house and half- hardy species increase by cuttings, and require a light rich soil. The annuals, The tuberous-rooted, cuttings, loam, and peat. Some of the species require par- ticular treatment, as follows :— T. tricolorum.—Mr. Falconer, gar- dener to A. Palmer, Esq., of Cheam, enters fully into its cultivation. He says that—<‘ the sod/ best suited to it is a mixture of loam, peat, and sand, with a small portion of soot; this mixture to be exposed to the influence of the sun from May until time to plant the tubers. About the latter end of June, or as soon as the decay of the stem and ripening of the seed show that the circulation of the sap has ceased, turn out the tubers from. the pots, and having carefully re- moved the soil, put the tubers in flower pans upon ashelfina dry room. About the beginning of September they pro- duce their new stems; let them remain until they have lengthened from twelve to fifteen inches. Having well drained a No. 12 pot, fill it up with the compost to within four inches of the top, then place the tuber in the centre of the pot, and coil the stem or stems around, care- fully filling up with the compost until about two inches of the stem are left above the soil. After potting, place the pots on a stage out of doors, there to remain till the middle of October, they are then removed to the front of a cool green-house, exposed to as much light and air as can be givento them. With respect to watering, keep them rather moist than otherwise: when out of doors. they are freely exposed to rain. The early flower-buds should be picked off until the space allotted is covered, the object being to have the greatest quan- tity of bloom at one time. When ne- cessary, in their early growth, they may be stopped to give a supply of laterals. At all times they should have plenty of air and light, more especially after they show. their flower-buds, for the joints will be shorter, and consequently the flowers more close together. -Whenin bloom, care must be taken to shade from the midday sun, which will pro- long their season of plenty: take off the weak laterals that are not likely to flower, where about two inches long; if with a heel so much the better. An time from February till May fill the pot _ half full of crocks, then with a mixture of peat and sand, till within two inches of the top, fill up with silver sand, and water with a fine rose to settle it. Then dibble-in the cuttings all round, within one inch of the rim, leaving about half an inch of the cutting above the sand. Place the pot on a shelf in the front of the green-house, keep the sand con- stantly moist, taking care that the ecut- tings are always erect. In the course of two months many of them will throw up shoots from under the sand. The pot should then be removed to a shady situation out of doors. When the stems decay, do not disturb the sand, but water sparingly. In October let them be placed in the green-house, when all that have made small tubers will grow. It is from these plants the best cuttings are obtained in the spring. In the fol- lowing May, turn the whole ball out of the pot, in a warm situation in the open ground. After they have finished their growth, take them up and sift the ball through a fine sieve, carefully picking out the tubers. They are then treated in all respects as the older tubers, and will make fine flowering plants the fol- lowing spring. The seeds before sow- ing should be soaked in milk and water twenty-four hours, and the outer shell carefully removed ; they will under this treatment grow much sooner and with greater certainty. They should remain in the seed pot until after they have formed a tuber. A small stick can be placed against each plant, to which it will climb, and it serves to indicate the place of the tuber when the stem is dead. Many seeds will remain twelve months before vegetating.’? — Gard. Chron. T. moritzianum requires very similar treatment. Dr. Lindley directs that —‘¢ After this plant has bloomed, water should be gradually withheld from it, and the pot containing the tubers should be stored away in some dry situation, until the season for starting it into growth returns. The tubers should then be repotted and placed in a gentle heat.”? —Gard. Chron. T. majus is the Nasturtium of our gardens. ‘* The flowers and young leaves are frequently eaten in salads; they have a warm taste, like the com- mon Cress, hence the name of Nastur- tium. ‘The flowers are also used as a garnish to dishes. The berries are gathered green and pickled, in which TRO 606 TRU —__e—— state, they form an excellent substitute for capers. <¢It should he planted on a warm border in April, having soaked the seed in warm water for twelve hours. The usual mode of planting, is in hills three feet apart each way, four seeds in a hill ; two strong plants are sufficient to remain ; when they commence running, place brush around them to climb on. When the berries attain full growth, but whilst yet tender, they are plucked with the foot stalk attached, and pre- served in vinegar.?°—Rural Register. TROWEL. Thisimplement, made of iron from twelve to six inches long in the plate, and half as broad, hollowed like a scoop, and fixed ona short handle to hold with one hand, is convenient in removing small plants, with a ball or lump of earth about their roots, lifting bulbous flower roots after the flowering is past in summer; planting bulbs in patches or little clumps about the bor- ders, as also for digging small patches in the borders, for sowing hardy annual flower seeds; likewise for filling mould into small pots, stirring the surface of the earth in pots, and fresh earthing them when necessary. And such a trowel is likewise very convenient. for pointing over or stirring the ground be- tween rows of small close-placed plants in beds or borders; are made between about twelve inches long in the plate, and six broad, narrowing gradually to the bottom, the other six or eight inches in the plate, and four inches broad, narrowing considerably towards the bot- tom, to introduce between small plants. TROXIMON.. Two species. Hardy herbaceous perennials. Division. aoe mon soil. TRUE PARSLEY. Apium Pithioso- linum. TRUE SERVICE. Pyrus Sorbus. TRUFFLE. Tuber magnatum, Pied- montese Truffle; 7. Borchii, Italy; T. moschatum, Musk Truffle, near Bath; T. cibarium, Common Truffle, England. But besides the tubers there are other edible fungi known as truffles, viz., Hy- drobolites tulasnei, Spye Park, Wilts ; Melagonaster Broomeianus, Red Truf fle, near Bath. These edible fungi have not yet been cultivated in England, though the. Prus- sians have succeeded in making them a garden tenant, and Comte de Borch has been equally successful in Italy. The latter cultivates the Piedmont Truffle, and his process is this:—He either em= ploys the soil where the truffle is found, or he prepares an artificial soil of seven: parts good garden earth; two, well pulverized clayey soil ; and one, oak sawdust—intimately mixed. Decayed oak or beech leaves would be better probably than the sawdust. If the na-_ tural soil was used, he trenched it two feet, removing all the large stones, and ~ adding oak sawdust, if necessary, and about one-tenth of powdered snail shells, if the soil was too stiff. ‘¢ Choosing an aspect rather exposed to the north than the south, where no reflected rays could fall upon it, with every precaution to insure its being thoroughly soaked with pure rain-water, and after waiting a day or two till it was in a proper state of moisture, he made rows half a foot deep, and in these, at six inches distance, he placed good and sound truffles, each of them being surrounded with two or three handfuls of oak sawdust, taking care to mark the rows accurately. Ridges were then made over each row, to prevent the truffles being injured by too abund- ant moisture. The bed was then left till the following autumn, with no other precaution than, in dry weather, to take care that it did not become too dry. The result, we are informed, was an abundant harvest, every year, from Oc- tober to January.?>—Gard. Chron. Bradley, writing, in 1726, of the culti- vation of the dese in England, says that— “¢ The truffle oe be easily cultivated where there are woods or coppices of oak or hazel, and where the soil is not too stiff, or inclining to chalk. The soil where they are most found is a reddish sandy loam; this will then be the best for our purpose, especially if it has lain long uncultivated. When we are thus provided with the proper soil, we must. be sure to let it lie undisturbed till we are ready to plant, which will be in the months of October, November, and De- cember, if the weather be open; for then the truffles are to be found in their full ripeness, and then, likewise, one may find themin a state of putrefaction, which is the time when the seeds are prepared for vegetation. It is in the last state that one ought to gather traf fles for planting, or at least they should be in perfect ripeness. TRU 607 TUL eee ar aT aR { ‘¢The proper soil, and these rotten truffles, being found, we may begin our work as follows :—Open a spot of ground, of a convenient space, and take out the earth about eight inches deep, and screen it, that it may be as fine as possible ; then lay about two or. three inches thick of this fine earth at the bottom ofthe trench or open ground, and upon it lay some of the overripe . truffles, about a foot and a half distance from one another; and, as soon as pos- sible, prepare a thin mud, made of the screened earth and water, well stirred and mixed together, and pour it on the truffles till the open ground is’ quite filled up. By this means, in a few hours, the ground will be as closely settled about the truffles as if it had never been dug or disturbed at all, and you may expect a good crop in due time. You must, however, take care to choose your spots of ground in woods or cop- pices, or such places as are shaded with trees. Their favorite tree is the oak, or the ilex or evergreen oak, as the elm is the favourite of the Morille. ‘* Notwithstanding these statements, it is quite certain that, at present, the art of cultivating the truffle is not known in England; and it will remain unknown, probably, until we have discovered how its spawn can be prepared, as for culti- vating the mushroom.’??—Gard. Chron. Mr. Gower says he recommended an old trufile-hunter “* to bury, at the pro- per depth, some of his truffles that were in a state of decay and unfit for the table, under one of the unproductive trees sufficient in stature and in umbra- geous development. At the beginning of next winter; when his visit was re- peated, he sought for Mr. G., and told him, with great. satisfaction, that the scheme had answered ; for he had found two or three pounds ae excellent truffles beneath the hitherto barren tree. By following this example, proprietors of trees adapted to truffles, and where the proper trees have been planted, may, in a short period, do that which a lapse of ears, unassisted, would not effect. cc Of all trees the cedar of Lebanon is the most favourable to the growth of the truffle.°—Gard. Chron. TRUMPET FLOWER. Bignonia. TRUSS is the florist’s name for what botanists call an umbel of flowers, a dis- tinctive title for that mode of inflores- cence where several flowers have their stalks united at one common centre, and thus spring from the root or branch on one stem, as in the auricula, polyan- thus, and cowslip. See Pip. TUBE FLOWER. Clerodendron si- phonanthus. TUBER cibarium, the well known truffle. It grows under ground, in light dry soils. TUBEROSE. Polyanthes tuberosa. Dr. Lindley says that,— “To flower the tuberose in the open air the bulbs should be started in a moderately warm frame, and planted out towards the end of May, in a sunny sheltered border. The bottom of the border should consist principally of well decomposed manure, and should be covered, to the depth of six inches, with light sandy loam, in which the bulbs should be planted. Success, in this case, will depend greatly upon the sea- son, and upon having good bulbs, which should be planted just as they are re- ceived. When grown in pots the same soil should be used, the plants should be kept near the glass, and they should re- ceive a liberal supply of water when rowing.’’—Gard. Chron. TUCKERMANIA maritima. Hardy herbaceous perennial. Division. Sandy loam. . TULBAGHIA. Fivespecies. Green- house bulbous perennials. Offsets or seeds. Sandy loam and peat. TULIPA. Twenty-four species. Hardy bulbous perennials. Offsets. Rich loam and sand. TULIP. Twulipa Gesneriane. From this species are descended our innume- rable garden varieties. Of these it is needless to do more than offer a selec- tion; and the most judgmatical is the following, by Mr. Slater, florist, of Chel- tenham Hill, near Manchester. The first class contains all that are worthy of a place in any stand of twelve or twenty-four varieties, and. possess every requisite of a fine tulip. In the second the varieties have either fine forms, but tinged stamens, or else have rather long cups and pure bottoms and stamen. Those in the third class are such as deserve a place in any collec- tion, but are not calculated for a south- ern stage. FIRST CLASS. Rose. — Aglaia; Amelia; Bacchus, alias Atlas, and Rose Baccu; Carnuse TUL 608 TUL —o—— de Craix; Catalina, alias Ponceau tres Blanc, and Cerise Blanche; Cerise a belle forme; Galatea (Slater’s); Tri- omphe Royale, alias Heroine, La Belle Nannette, and La Cherie; Madame Ves- tris, alias Clarke’s Clio, and Goldham’s Princess Sophia of Gloucester; Ponceau tres blanc (Dutch); Queen of Hearts (Franklin’s); Rose Brillant. Byblomens.—Anacreon (Slater’s); Bi- jou des Amateurs; Byzantium (Lau- rence’s); Camarine; Eveque d’Amboise; Holmes?’ King ; Invincible (Franklin’s); Mentor, alias Reine de Sheba; Musa- dora ; Pandora ; Roi de Siam, alias Aca- pulco; Salvator Rosa; Violet Cook; Violet Sovereign; Violet Quarto, alias Violet Alexander; Violet Brun; Zenobia (Slater’s). Bizarres.—Catafalque (Old Dutch) ; Charbonnier; Curion (Slater’s); Duke of Hamilton (Slater’s); Fabius (Lau- rence’s); Glencoe; Iago (Laurence’s) ; Marcellus ; ; Napoleon (Walker’s) ; Poly- phemus, alias Goldham?s Albion, Ulys- ses, and Nourri Effendi. SECOND CLASS. Roses.—Brulante Eclatante; Catha- rine; Cerise Royal,alias Manteau Ducal, Ponceau Brilliant, and Moore’s Rose ; Elizabeth Jeffries; Lady Crewe; Lady Middleton; Lac ; Manon; Mason’s Ma- tilda, alias Strong’s French Rose; Pre- tiosa, alias Thunderbolt; Queen Boadi- cea; Rose Camuse. Byblomens.— Ambassador, alias Atlas and Rose Baccu; Bailleu van Menvede; Bienfait Incomparable ; Beauty (Buck- ley’s); Buckley’s No. 46; Cleopatra; Comte de Provence ; David, alias David Pourpre ; Davy’s Queen Charlotte ; Duc de Bourdeaux ; General Barneveld ; Im- peratrix Florum; Incomparable Daphne; ‘Incomparable, (Rowbottom’s, alias Haigh’s ;) Lancashire Hero (Buckley’s); Lord Denbigh; Lord of the Isle (Sla- ter’s) ; Lewold; Louis XVI.; Ne plus Ultra; Prince "Elie ; ; Queen Victoria (Wilmer’s); Rubens; Sir E. Knatchbull; Thalia (Clarke’s); Violet Sovereign. Bizarres.—Charles X., alias Water- loo, Bartlett’s Platoff, La Conquerante, Gabel’s Glory, Royal Sovereign, and Duke of Lancaster; Catafalque Surpasse; Carter’s Leopold; Donzelli, alias Wells’ Lord Brougham ; Leonatus Posthumus; Lord Milton; Lord Lilford ; Leonardo da Vinci; Optimus (Hutton’s), alzas Sur- passe Optimus; Richard Cobden; San- | Ely’s zio, alias Abercrombie, Captain White ; Strong’s Admiral White, and Strong’s Admiral Black ; Shakspeare, alias Gar- rick and Edmund Kean ; Strong’s King. THIRD CLASS. Roses.—Admiral Kingsbergen; Alex- andre le Roi; Camillus; Claudiana ; Comte de Vergennes; Duchess of Cla- rence; Emily; Fleur de Dame; Grand Roi de France; Incomparable Hebe, alias Iphigenia and Rose Hebe; Lady Wilmot; La Vandyke; Lavinia (Clarke’s); Lilas en Cerise; Maria (Goldham?’s) ; -Mary Ann (Lawrence’s); Rose Monty, Rose Bianca, Rose Quarto, Rose Primo bien du Noir, and Rose Unique; Sarah (Lawrence’s); Strong’s Daphne, very like if not the same as La Vandyke; Thalestris; Vesta; Walworth, alias Glo- ry of Walworth, and Glaphyra. Byblomens. — Alexander Magnus, alias Alcon and Grand Marvel ; Ange- lina; Bagnel, called also Black Bagnel ; Baluruc; Black Tabbart; Catharina; Chef d’cuvre; Competitor; Czarine ; Queen Victoria; Fair Flora (Buckley’s) ; Glory (Buckley’s); Gro- tius; Imperatrice de Maroc, alias Lady of the Lake, and Valerius Publicola ; Imperatrice.des Romaines, alias Du- chesse de Modena; Incomparable Pre- mief Noble, alias fess: Czidt; La belle Narene; La Mere Bruin Incomparable; — - Laurence’s Friend; Nectar; Passe Reine d’Egypt; Patty (Lawrence’s) 5 Queen of Beauties; Queen Charlotte ; Reid’s Sir John Moore; Reine d’Hon- grie; Reine des Tulips; Roscius; Su- perbeen Noir, alias Lysander Noir; Transparent Noir; Washington, alias Rodney; Violet & belle forme, Violet Imperial, Violet Pompeuse, Violet Rou- geatre, Violet Triumphant, and Violet Wallers. Bizarres. — Bolivar fiancee A Carlo Dolci; Catafalqgue Supérieure ; Duke of Wellington; Emperor of Aus- tria; Jubilee (Rider’s); Sir Sidney Smith, alias Magnum Bonum, Trebi- sonde, Demetrius, Washington; Osiris; (Groom’s).—Gard. Chron. It will be observed, that tulips are divided into different classes, and as the characteristics of these, as well as some other terms applicable to these flowers, may not be understood by all : readers, they are here defined. ; Florists call tulips seedlings until ies and Franklin’s | Prince Albert ° a en ag TUL 609 TUL a have bloomed. after this those pre- | - served on account of their good form and habit, as well as the offsets they produce, are called breeders. After some years the petals of these become striped, and they are then said to be broken. If the striping is good, they are said te have a good strain; if it be inferior, they are described as having a bad strain. A rectified tulip is syno- nymous witha tulip having a good strain. | A feathered tulip has a dark-coloured edge round its petals, gradually becom- ing lighter on the margin next the cen- tre of the petal; the feathering is said to be light, if narrow; heavy, if broad; and irregular, if its inner edge has d broken outline. A flamed tulip is one that has a dark- pointed spot, somewhat in- shape like the flame of a candle, in the centre of each petal. Sometimes a tulip is both nemianed and flamed. A Bizard tulip has a yellow ground, and coloured marks on its petals. A Byblomen is white, marked with black, lilac, or purple. A Rose i is white, with marks of crim- son, pink, or scarlet. Characteristics of Excellence. — A tulip, however coloured, should be composed of six petals, three outer and three inner, which should be alternate, and lie close to each other; broad and_ round on the top, quite smooth, and of| sufficient width to allow the edges to lie over each other when fully expand- ed. They should be firm in texture, | having a slight swell towards the lower part of the “midrib of the petal, which will enable it to retain its shape; this in a fully expanded flower should be semi-globular, the stalk being inserted in the pole, which should be a little depressed. The petals should be level on the top, the inner three of the same height as the outer; the latter should not be bent back, as is the case in some flowers. The colour of the ground should be pure and rich, the -base of the petals without stain, and the yellow ground should possess the same intensity of colour on the outer as on the inner side of the flower. In the three principal classes, namely, roses, _ bizards, and byblomens, the colours should be brilliant, and well defined. In Mr. Groom’s opinion, the feathered flower is most preferable; the feathers should commence at the bottom of each petal, the deepest marking being on the top, and ‘equal in every one. . The flamed flower should likewise possess - this feather; with a rich beam up the rib of each petal, branching off on either side, touching the feather, and at the same time preserving sufficient of | the ground colour to show it to advan- tage. A flame without a feather, in general, presents a star-like appear- ance, which, though not so correct as the other, is still beautiful. The stem should be elastic, neither too tall nor short, for the size of the flower, and suf- ficiently strong to keep itself erect without support. The edge of the petals should be unbroken, their greatest width near. the top, which would pre- vent all quartering (a term which in reality means dividing in four), whereas the tulip parts into six, and it would be better in Mr. Groom’s opinion if sextalizing, or some more proper term were substituted—Gard. Chron. Soil and Situation.—The best soil is formed of good. turfy loam from a pas- ture. Some very old cow-dung, say two years old, and road scrapings, in the proportions of three or four barrow- fuls of the loam to one of the others. The best aspect is south-west; the beds should be upon an open space, eight yards at least from any wall, to avoid the reflection of the sun. The soil should be free from manure, rich, and rendered light by well working it.— Gard. Chron. Propagation.—By Seed.—An excel- lent French authority gives these direc- tions:—‘* When the ripeness of the tulip seed, where the flower has bloom- ed in a full exposure, is indicated by the opening of the capsule, it is cut off a few inches below the head, and placed in a very dry situation, in order to in- sure its perfect maturity. This being ‘accomplished, the seeds are taken out and should be sown, about the middle o1 October, in a bed of well prepared earth, which has been passed through a coarse sieve, and covered about the eighth of an inch in depth with soil of a fine and ~ light texture, which will allow the free vegetation of the seeds without in- crusting or becoming hard. The beds ‘must be protected from sharp frosts by covering them with leaves or with mats, and likewise kept perfectly free from weeds. If these necessary precautions TUL 610 TUL —_o—_. are attended to, the tulips will come up towards the end of February. From the size of a small pea in the first year, ‘the roots will increase considerably during the two following seasons, and each time when the leaves fade, I) spread over my seedlings about an inch in thickness of similarly prepared soil to that with which the seed was cover- ed, being satisfied, that from the loss of time and the greater extent of land they will occupy by taking them up in the second year and replanting them, it is the better plan to allow them to remain till they have made their third growth. ‘— Rural Register. _ To obtain Seed, some of the most per- - fect roots of those which will withstand the winter may remain where grown; or they may be transplanted in February or March. The plants must stand a foot apart each way ; be carefully freed of weeds, and especial care taken to keep away birds, as they are particularly voracious of the seed of this, and of all other spe- cies of brassica. When ripe in July or August, the stalks are cut; and when perfectly dry, the seed beaten out and stored. No two varieties must be al- lowed to grow together. Manures.—The best manure for tur- nips is stable dung; and next in their order, guano, super-phosphate of lime, soot, and salt. For the injuries to which the turnip is liable, see Athalia, Ambury, and Black Fly. _ Turnip-cabbage (Brassica napo-bras- sica), and turnip-rooted cabbage (B. caulo-rapa). These species of brassica are but little cultivated, and, at most, a very small quantity of each is in request. The bulbs, for which they are cultivated, must have their thick outer skin re-/ 614 TUS moved, and, in other respects, be treat- ed as turnips in preparing them for — use. Varieties. — Of the turnip-cabbage, which is so named on account of the round fleshy protuberance that is form- ed at the upper end of the stem, there are four varieties :— ; 1. White turnip-cabbage. 2. Purple turnip-cabbage. 3. Fringed turnip-cabbage. 4. Dwarf early turnip-cabbage. Of the turnip-rooted cabbage, which is distinguished from the above by its root having the protuberance near the origin of the stem, there are two varie- ties, the white and the red, _ Sowing.—They are propagated by seed, which may be sown broadeast or in drills, at monthly intervals, in small quantities, from the commencement of April until the end of June. Planting.—The best mode is to sow thin, in drills two feet and a half apart, and allow the plants to remain where sown, the plants being thinned to a similar distance apart; or, if sown broadcast, to allow them to remain in the seed-bed until of sufficient size to ‘be removed into rows, at similar dis- tances, for production, rather than, as is the practice of some gardeners, to transplant them, when an inch or two in height, in a shady border, in rows three inches apart each way, to be thence removed as above stated. Water must be given every night after a removal until the plants are again established; and afterwards, in dry weather, occasionally as may appear necessary. ; Earth may be drawn up to the stem of the turnip-cabbage as to other species of brassica; but the bulb of the turnip- rooted must not be covered with the mould. For directions to obtain seed, &c., see Brocoli, Turnip, &c. TURNIP-FLY. See Black Fly. TURNSOLE. Heliotropium. TURPENTINE. ceum. : TURPENTINE MOTH. See Tor- triz resinella. | TURPENTINE TREE. Pistacia te- rebinthus. TURRZEA. Five species. Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Loam, peat, and sand. | TUSSILAGO. Twelve species. Silphium terebintha- | TWA 615 VAN —_—@e——-_ - Hardy or half-hardy herbaceous peren- nials. Division. Common soil. ~TWAYBLADE. Listera. TWEEDIA. Two species. Hardy deciduous twiners. Cuttings or seeds. Sandy loam and peat. TYLOPHORA. Three species. Stove evergreen twiners. Cuttings. Peat and Joam. TYPOGRAPHER BARK BEETLE. | See Bostrichus. TYTONIA natans. Stove aquatic annual. Seeds. Rich loamy soil, in water.: ULCER. See Canker. ULEX. Furze. Four species. Hardy evergreen shrubs. U. Europea is increased by young cuttings, and all by seeds. Common light soil. “ULMUS. Elm. Thirteen species and many varieties. Hardy deciduous trees. Layers or grafts. Common soil. U. integrifolia is a stove evergreen tree. The Wych elm (U. montana) is also propagated by seed ripened here. UMBILICUS. Four species. Hardy and. half-hardy herbaceous perennials. Offsets, cuttings, and seeds. Loam, peat, and sand. UMBRELLA TREE. Hibiscus gui- neensis. UMBRELLA WORT. Ozybaphus. UNCARIA. Two species. Stove evergreen climbers. Cuttings. Peat and loam. ' _ UNDER-GROUND ONION. See Po- tato Onion. UNONA.- Ten species. Stove ever- green shrubs, trees, and climbers. Ripe cuttings. Light turfy loam. URANIA speciosa. ‘Stove herbace- ous perennial. Newly imported seeds. Turfy loam and peat. It requires to be well watered. Powis URARIA. Six species. Stove and green-house evergreen shrubs, except U. lagocephala, a stove herbaceous pe- rennial. Seeds or young cuttings. Loam, .peat,.and sand. UREDO. See Barberry and Mildew. URINE. See Dung. The urine of all animals is excellent asa manure; but it must be given only to plants. whilst growing, and in a diluted state. One of the most fertilizing of liquid manures is composed of cabbage-leaves, - and other vegetable refuse, putrefied in the urine from a house or stable, and diluted with three times its quantity of water when applied. If mixed with / bleaching -powder (chloride of lime), there will be no offensive smell. Gyp- sum mixed with urine, or a little oil of vitriol poured into it, adds to its utility, as a manure. Sulphate of iron, in the proportion of seven pounds to every hundred of urine, prevents the escape of ammonia during putrefaction. UROPETALON. Six species. Half- hardy and green-house bulbous peren- nials. Offsets and seeds. Loam and leafmould. UTRICULARIA. Hooded Milfoil. Three species. Hardy aquatic peren- nials. Division. Water. UVARIA. Six species. Stove ever- green shrubs; U. zeylanica, a twiner. Ripe cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. UVULARIA. Six species. Hardy) herbaceous perennials. Division. Light ney soil. VACCINIUM. Whortleberry. Thirty- two species and some varieties. Chiefly hardy deciduous shrubs; V..caracasa- num and V.,meridionale are stove ever- greens; and a few are hardy and half- hardy.-evergreen trailers. Layers, seeds, and the stove species cuttings: sandy peat. VALERIANA. Valerian. Nineteen species. Hardy herbaceous perennials, except V. capensis, which belongs to» the green-house, and V. sisymbrifolia, is a hardy biennial. Division. Loam, peat, and sand, for the natives of warm climates, and common soil for the hardy species. ; VALERIANELLA. Three species. | Hardy annuals. Seeds. Common soil. VALLARIS perguiana. Stove ever- green twiner. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. VALLESIA. Two species. Stove — evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. VALLISNERIA spiralis. Green- house aquatic perennial. Seeds. Wa- ter. VALLOTA purpurea, and its variety. Green-house bulbous perennial. Off- sets. Peatand sand. VANDA. Five species. Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood, and some of the stronger kinds, sphagnum and potsherds. VANDELLIA. Four species. Stove annuals, except V. hirsuta, which is. hardy. Seeds. Sandy loam. VANGUERIA. Three species. Stove VAN 616 VER evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Loam VEPRIS obovata. Stove evergreen and peat. shrub. Cuttings. Peat, loam, and VANILLA. Three species. V. bi-| sand. color, a stove epiphyte, increased by) VERATUM.. Six species. Hardy division, and growing on wood. The| herbaceous perennials. Division or other two increase by cuttings. Moss) seeds. Rich soil. and turfy peat. VERBASCUM. | Sixty-four species. VARIEGATION is the colour of leaves different from green, such as) *—Gard. Chron. A third invention is Mr. Saul?s, and, he says, ‘*it can be constructed at a very little more expense than those ir general use. In the annexed sketch, Fig. 1 represents a section of the can; 1 1 are removeable tubes, having roses on their upper ends, while-the lower ends slide over the tube 2, fixed into the can; 3 is a valve placed over this tube, made of strong leather, and hav- | ing a small block of wood on the top like those in common pumps, the bot- tom of the can being wood, the valve is screwed on it, asshown at 4, in such a Fig. 178. manner as to be easily taken off, when it requires to be repaired. The rod 5 is connected with the valve 3, and the spring 6; when used, the can may be held by the handle, either in the right hand or the left: by drawing up the spring 6 with the forefinger, the valve is raised by means of the connecting rod 5, and consequently the water flows into the tubes 1 and 2; as soon as the finger is removed from the spring, the valve falls, and the water is stopped. The spring is fixed on the under side of the handle, and nearly all inclosed in that part made to fit the hand. Fig 2 represents the bottom of the can; the dotted line showing the size of the valve; 1 shows the point at which the water flows into the tubes.”°—Gard. Chron. ’ WATER LEMON. | Passijlora laurt- folia. WATER LILY. Nymphea. - ' WATER MELON. Cucumis Citrui- lus, var. WATER PLANTS. See Aquarium. WATER PURSLANE. Peplis. WATER VINE. Tetracera potato-— rid. WATER VIOLET. Hottonia. WATSONIA. Fifteen species. Green-house bulbous perennials. Off- sets or seeds. Sandy loam and peat. WAYFARING TREE. Viburnum Lantana. WEATHER. The gardener, even more than the farmer, is dependent upen the weather for opportunity to insert and to remove the plants under his care. I shall, therefore, give him all the prog- nostics which appear worthy of attention. The hollow winds begin to blow, The soot falls down, the spaniels sleep, — And spiders from their cobwebs peep; Last night the swn went pale to bed ; The moon in halos hid her head. The boding shepherd heaves a sigh, For see, a 7ainbow spans the sky ; The walls are damp, the ditches smell, . Closed is the pink-eyed pimpernell ; . Hark! how the chairs and tables crack, . Old Betty’s joints are on the rack ; . Loud quack the ducks, the peacocks ery, . The distant Azi/s are looking nigh; . How restless are the snorting swine, . The busy flies disturb the kine; | . Low o’er the grass the swallow wings, . The cricket, too, how sharp he sings; . Puss on the heath, with velvet paws, Sits wiping o’er her whisker’d jaws: . Through the clear stream the jishes rise, And nimbly catch th’ incautious flies; - . The glow-worms, numerous and bright, Illumed the dewy dell last night; . At night the squalid toad was seen Hopping and crawling o’er the green; . The whirling wind the dust obeys, And in the rapid eddy plays; : TEED OE GOO The clouds look black, the glass is low; { % ae sd ve WRERA 94. The frog has changed his yellow vest, And in a russet coat is drest ; 25. Though June, the air is cold yet still ; 26. The blackbird’s mellow voice is shrill; 27. My dog, so alter’d is his taste, Quits mutton bones, on grass to feast ; 28. And see yon rooks, how odd their flight, They imitate the gliding kite, And seem precipitate to fall, As if they felt the piercing ball; ?T will surely rain, I see, with sorrow, - Our jaunt cannot take place to-morrow. In the foregoing rhymes, attributed to Dr. Jenner, are comprised nearly all the natural phenomena which predicate ap- proaching rain, and most of them are sustained by our more scienced know- ledge. Thus the wind, when rain is ap- proaching, causes more moaning and whistling sounds in passing through the crevices and crannies of our houses, on the same principle that all other gases, in proportion as they are more or less heated, or more or less dry, cause louder or lower sounds in passing through the orifices of small tubes. . Soot falls because it absorbs more moisture from the air as rain approaches, and becoming heavier breaks away from its slender attachment to the chimney’s walls. A halo round the moon is caused by the rays of its light passing through moisture precipitated from the air, and the larger the halo, the nearer is such precipitated moisture to the earth, and consequently the rain is at hand. Walls become damp from the same cause that soot falls, when rain is ap- proaching, namely, because the moist- ure in the air is more abundant, and in a state of mixture with it more easily separable. Walls that thus become damp, contain chloride of calcium, or other salts which are deliquescent, that is, absorb moisture from the air. Ditches smell in rainy weather, because all odours are conveyed with more facility by damp than by dry air. Not only does the pimpernell (Anagallis arvensis) close its flowers when exposed to damp air, but those of many other plants are similarly sensitive. Convolvulus arvensis (field Bindweed), Anagallis arvensis, Calendula pluvialis, Arenaria rubra (purple Sandwort), Stellaria media (Chickweed. or Stitchwort), and many others, are well known to shut up their flowers against the approach of rain ; _ whence the Anagailis has been called ‘¢ the Poor Man’s Weather Glass.*? It 40* 629 WEA has been observed by Linnzus, adds Sir J. E. Smith, that flowers lose this fine sensibility, either after the anthers have performed their office, or when deprived of them artificially; nor do I doubt the fact. I have had reason to think that, during a long continuance of wet, the Anagallis is sometimes ex- hausted ; and it is evident that very sud- den thunder showers oftener take such flowers by surprise, the previous state of the atmosphere not having been such as to give them due warning. The cracking of furniture is the ne- cessary consequence of the dry woody fibre expanding when exposed to moist- er air. | Distant objects appear nearer when rain is at hand, because the air is rarer at such times, and objects always appear distinct in proportion to the rarity of the gaseous medium through which they are viewed. Swallows fly low at such times, probably for two rea- sons: insects are then more busy near the earth’s surface; and the rarity of the atmosphere renders flying more la- borious in proportion to the height to whicha bird soars. The changed habits of animals at the approach of rain, are perhaps to be accounted for by the al- tered state of the atmospheric pressure, and of the air’s electricity causing a change of sensations which warns them by past experience that the season of discomfort or of pleasure, as their na- ture may be, is coming upon them. These natural phenomena combined with a careful attention to the indica- tions of the Barometer, are much less erring guides than tables founded upon the moon’s changes. It is impossible, in the present imperfect state of our meteorological knowledge, to: say that the moon has no influence upon the weather, but it is next to certain that other influences are much more power- ful and controlling. The same moon rises and sets and changes in Hindoo- stan as in England, yet in that climate, its wet and hot and cold seasons, its northeast and southwest monsoons ar- rive with a changeless regularity and intensity that demonstrate the moon’s influence there has no paramount con- trol. The facts established by Mr. Forster and other acute observers of the ba- rometer, appear to be these:—1. Not the great height-or depression of the mercury is so much to: be regarded as WEA 630 whether it continues to rise or decline. 2. If the mercury falls when the wind blows nearly from due south, rain is approaching. 3. If it falls in hot wea- ther, there will be thunder. 4. If it rises in winter, frost is nigh; and if, the frost continuing, it still rises, there will be snow. 5. If it falls much during _ frost, a thaw will set in. 6. A change taking place. immediately after the mer-. cury rises or falls, rarely endures. 7. If the mercury continues to rise during wet weather, or to fall during fine wea- ther, a‘permanent change will come. I am indebted to Mr. W. H. White, one of the intelligent Secretaries of the Meteorological Society, for the follow- ing observations :— BAROMETRIC FLUCTUATIONS. 1. The barometer in calm serene wea- ther generally ranges pretty high, rather above thirty inches; if the fluctuations daily are very small, but still rather getting higher, a fine se- ries of days or weeks may be expect- ed. 2. When the barometer is below twen- ty-nine inches, and the clouds dis- perse with but little wind, it will be- come stationary for a day or two, till the electrical equilibrium of the air be destroyed: if it then rise, expect fair weather; if it fall, expect a storm of wind accompanied with rain or hail, according to the season. 3. When the barometer ranges between 29 and 29.60, if the clouds hang low and float before a west or southwest wind, almost every cloud will deposit its contents, especially if passing over an elevation, a wood, and sometimes ariver. In all cases the hygrometer should be considered: if the air be dry and the barometer fall, wind will follow; if the air. be saturated with moisture, rain or sleet, according to season. 4, When the thermometer ranges in summer between 70° and 80°, and the barometer falls rapidly and exten- sively, thunder will follow with. hail or heavy rain. 5. In winter, when the thermometer ranges below freezing, and a low barometer begins to rise, expect snow to follow; but if the thermo- meter rise and the barometer fall during frosty weather, a thaw will quickly follow. WEA 6. The barometer at all seasons of the year will fail very low and very ra- pidly on the approach of a storm of wind without rain; on the approach of an earthquake "too, though it be four or five hundred miles off! 7. If the barometer fall with an easterly or northeast wind, rain will follow. 8. If the crown of the mercury in the - tube be convex, it indicates a rising will take place; if concave, it will soon fall. These are a few of the changes pecu- liar to England. The operating causes of the oscillations involve one of the most interesting inquiries belonging to meteorology. Electricity is the grand mover of the barometric column. Many other rules might be gathered from the restlessness of animals, the flights of birds, and the gambols of fishes; all indicating by their motions that there is a change taking place in the electrical condition of the atmosphere. NATURAL APPEARANCES. 1. In winter, a red sky at sunrise indi- cates the speedy approach of rain. 2. In summer, the same appearance de- notes refreshing showers. 3. Squalls of wind generally follow these appearances:—* It will be foul weather to-day, for the sky is red and lowering.?? Matt. xvi. 3. 4, Small. patches of white clouds, like flocks of sheep at rest, indicate con- tinued fine weather. 5. Large mountainous (or Jupiterian) clouds, called cumulo stratus, pro- duce sudden showers in spring and autumn, and hail-storms in summer and winter. 6. When large clouds diminish in size, : fine weather will follow; if they in- crease, rain or snow. 7. Rainbows denote frequent showers. | Spiders generally alter their webs once in twenty-four hours; and a rule has been deduced from this, whereby to foretell the coming change. If they thus alter their web between six and seven in the evening, there will be a fine. night; if in the morning, a fine day; if they work during rain, expect fine weather; and the more active and busy the spider is, the finer will be the weather. If spiders? webs (gossamer) fly in the autumn, with a south wind, expect an east wind and fine weather. If gar- den spiders break off and destroy their — WEA 631 — ea webs, and creep away, expect continued rain and showery weather. The Leech also possesses the pecu- liar property of indicating approaching changes of the weather in a most emi- nent degree. In fair and frosty weather it remains motionless and rolled up in a spiral form at the bottom of the vessel ; previously to rain or snow, it will creep to the top, where, should the rain be heavy, or of long continuance, it will remain for a considerable time; if tri- fling, it will descend. Should the rain or snow be accompanied with wind, it will dart about with great velocity, and seldom cease its evolutions. until it blows hard. If a storm of thunder or lightning be approaching, it will be ex- ceedingly agitated, and express its feel- ings in violent convulsive starts at the top of the glass. These animal move- ments are all induced, probably, by sensations in the animal occasioned by changes in the atmospheric electricity. RAIN MAY BE Exprecrep—When the -sounds of distant waterfalls, &c., are distinctly heard—When the sun rises pale and sparkling—When the sun rises amidst ruddy clouds—When the sun sets behind a dark cloud—When there is no dew after heat in summer—When there is much hoar frost in winter— When mists rest-on the mountain tops —When snails and frogs beset your evening walk—When gnats bite vigor- ously—When animals are unusually restless. Farr WEATHER MAY BE EXPECTED —When none of the signs of rain just given occur-—When the sun sets red and cloudless—When the moon’s horns are sharp—When the stars shine bright- ly—When smoke rises easily—When moths and beetles appear in numbers. Clouds.—** When it is evening, ye say, It will be fair weather, for the sky is red.”? (Matt. xvi. 2.) ‘ And this observation of nineteen centuries past is explained by the optical fact, that dry air refracts more of the red rays of light, than when it is moist; and as dry air ‘is not perfectly transparent, those rays are reflected in the horizon.??—Davy’s Salmonia. Rainbow.—** When this is'seen inthe morning, it betokens rain ; but if in the evening, fair weather; and Sir H. Davy thus explains this phenomenon :—* The bow can be seen only when the clouds depositing the rain are opposite to the sun,—thus in the morning the bow isin the west, and in the evening it is in the ‘east; and, as the rains in this country are usually brought by westerly winds, a bow in that quarter indicates that the rain- is coming towards the spectator; whereas a bow in the east indicates that rain is passing away.’ ??—Salmonia, Wind.—Mr. Christensen says, that the wind changing to any point of the compass. between E.S.E. and N.N.w. causes the mercury to rise; and a change to any point between w. and s. causes it to be depressed. WEEDS should be warred upon un- remittingly by the gardener, for not only does their presence detract from that neatness which should be the all-per- vading characteristic of the garden, but every weed robs the soil of a portion of the nutriment which should be devoted to the crops. To destroy them, the hoes and weed- ing irons should be unremittingly at work. Neither should weeds be al- lowed to remain where cut down, but should be gathered together, and mixed with saline matters, to convert them into most valuable fertilizers. Never burn them. No weed will endure being continually cut down, and when cut down, it should be carried to a common heap, and a peck of common salt, and a gallon of gas ammoniacal liquor, mixed with every barrow load. :The whole speedily becomes a saponaceous mass; all seeds in it are destroyed ; and it is rendered one of the best fertilizers the gardener can command. WEEDING TOOLS. See Hoe. Be- Fig. 179. sides spuds, weeding pincers, and hoes, there are several implements invent- ed for eradicating the deeper-rooting weeds. Such are Hall’s Land Crab (Fig. 179), Dockspuds and the Guernsey Weeding Prong (Fig. 180). WEEVIL. See Anthonomus and Gtiorhyncus. WEIGHTS. AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 16 Drachms, 1 ounce. _16 Ounces, 1 pound. 28 Pounds, 1 quarter. 4 Quarters, 1 cwt. 20 Cwt., 1 ton. WEIGHTS AS IN ENGLAND. 14 Pounds, 1 stone. é 8 Pounds, 1 stone butchers’ meat. 56 Pounds, 1 truss of hay. 36 Pounds, 1 truss of straw. 36 Trusses, 1 load. WELCH ONION. See Ciboule. WENDLANDIA paniculata. A Stove evergreen tree; and W. populifolia, a green-house evergreen twiner. Cut- tings. Loam, peat and sand. WESTRINGIA. Ten species. Green- house evergreen shrubs. Young cut- tings. Light rich soil. WHEELBARROWS. The greater the diameter of the wheel of a barrow, and the smaller the axis or spindle on which it turns, the less power will be required to drive it forward; for the friction is proportionately reduced. The diameter of the wheel might be increased with manifest advantage to double that now employed, for even then it would be below the point of draught or impulsion (the hand of the labourer); and the nearer it can be brought to a level with this, the more efficiently he exerts his power. - The breadth ofthe wheel’s periphery, or felloes, might be also increased two inches advantageously; for, as it is al- ways employed upon a surface in some degrees soft, such an increased breadth would decrease the depth to which the wheel of a loaded barrow usually sinks into the soil, and would proportionately decrease the power required to over- come the augmented opposition. Ina wheelbarrow so constructed, a man might move with more ease eight hun- dred weight, than he now impels five a a weight, which is a full barrow 0a 632 : ————— WIR If a wheelbarrow be sat of wood, the feet and handles should be capped with iron, and its joints: strengthened with bands of the same metal. Iron barrows are now made weighing no more than ninety-two bel eme f) and they run very light. The longer the handles of a wheel- barrow are, and the nearer the load to the wheel, the easier is that load lifted, and the easier is the barrow turned over to discharge the load. WHIRLING PLANT. gyrans. Desmodium WHITE BEAN TREE. Pyrus Aria. WHITE CEDAR. Cupressus thy- oides. WHITE SPRUCE. Pinus Alba. WHITE TREE. Melaleuca Leuca- dendron. WHITE VINE. Clematis vitalba. WHITEFIELDIA lateritia. Stove evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Leafy mould and loam. WHORTLE BERRY. Vaccinium. WIDOW WAIL. Cneorum. WIGANDIA caracasana. Stove de- ciduous shrub. Seeds. Loam and peat. WILDERNESS. See Labyrinth. WILD LIQUORICE. Abrus. WILD SERVICE. Pyrus torminalis. WILDENOVIA. Two species. Grasses. Division. Loam and peat. WILLEMETIA africana. Stove evergreen shrub. Young cuttings. Sandy loam and peat. WILLOW. Saliz. WILLUGHBEIA edulis. green shrub. Cuttings. and sand. WIND FLOWER. Gentiana Pneu- monanthe, and Anemone. WINGED PEA. Tetragonolobus pur- pureus. WINTER ACONITE. LEranthis. WINTER BERRY. Prinos. WINTER CHERRY. Physalis, and Cardiospermum Halicacabum, WINTER CRESS. Barbarea, WINTER MOTH. See Cheimatobia. WINTER SWEET. Origanum hera- cleoticum. WIRE- WORMS are the larve of various species of Elater, Click Beetle, or Skip Jack. Of these there are more than filty species; but the most common are:— E. segetis, of which the wire-worm is often so abundant in old pastures, and Stove ever- Loam, peat, WIR 633 WoR » ——_—_o— = of which the ravages are so great oc- casionally upon our corn crops. E. sputator. Spring beetle. The larva or wire-worm of this is particularly destructive to the lettuce and carrot. The following general description of the click beetles and their larve, is given by Mr. Cuthbert Johnson, in the Farmers? Encyclopedia :— “Click beetles are readily known by having the sternum produced behind in a strong spine fitted to enter a groove in the abdomen, situated between the intermediate pair of legs. By bringing these parts suddenly into contact, the insects are enabled to spring to some height into the air, and thus recover their natural position when they happen to fall on their backs, which they fre- _ quently do when dropping from plants to the ground. A special provision of this kind is rendered necessary in con- sequence of the shortness and weakness of their legs. ‘¢ The wire- worms’ have a long, slender, and cylindrical body, covered by a hard crust, which has obtained for them the above name. They are com- posed of twelve segments, fitting closely to each other; and are provided with six conical scaly feet, placed in pairs on the three segments next the head. The latter is furnished with short antenne palpi, and two strong mandibles or jaws. ‘¢ To remove the wire-worm from a soil, no mode is known but frequently digging it and picking them out, as their yellow colour renders them easily de- tected. To prevent their attack upon a crop, mix a little spirit of tar, or a larger quantity of gas lime, with the soil. It has been stated that growing white mustard drives them away, and it is certainly worth the trial. To entrap them, and tempt them away from a crop they have attacked, bury potatoes in the soil near the crop; and if each potato has a stick thrust through it, this serves as a handle by which it may be taken up, and the wire worms which have penetrated it be destroyed. To decoy them from beds of anemones, ranuncu- luses, &c., it is said to be a successful plan to grow round the beds an edging of daisies, for the roots of which they have a decided preference... ‘¢ If a crop be attacked; as the pansy or carnation, our only resource is to bury in the soil other vegetable matters, of which they are fonder than they are of the roots of those flowers. Potatoes, with a string tied round them to mark where they are, and to facilitate. their being taken out of the soil in which they are buried; and carrots similarly thrust into the earth where the wire- worm is ravaging, are successful lures. The vermin prefers these, buries itself in them, and may be easily removed. The roots of the white mustard also are said to drive the wire-worm away from the soil on which it is grown.”—Brit. Farm. Mag. Mr. Glenny says, ‘*that Mr. May, nurseryman, Tottenham, plants the common daisy round his principal beds, finding the wire-worm prefer it to the carrot.”—Gard. Gazette. And Mr. Oram, Edmonton, says “that the double daisy is employed by one of his friends, who, in one summer, from a row of daisies three hundred feet long, has taken 2,000 wire-worms.”?— Gard. Chron. WISE MEN’S BANANA TREE. Musa Sapientum, WISTARIA. Two species. Hardy deciduous climbers. Layers, and also cuttings. Light rich soil. W. sinensis requires the shelter of a wall, and to be pruned about the beginning of March ; cut the leading shoots about half-way back, and spur the others in rather short. WITCH HAZEL. Hamamelis. WITHERINGIA. Seven species. Stove and green-house evergreen shrubs and herbaceous perennials. W. pur- purea is tuberous rooted; W. phyllantha, a green-house annual. Cuttings or seeds. Light rich soil. ; WITSENIA. Threespecies. Green- house herbaceous perennials. Offsets or seeds. Sandy peat. WOLF’S BANE. Aconitum lupu- linum. WOOD ASHES. See Ashes. WOODBINE. Caprifolium Pericly- menum. WOOD LEOPARD MOTH. See Bombyz. WOODLICE. See Oniscus. WOODROOF. Asperula. WOOD SORREL. Oczalis. WOOLLEN RAGS. See Animal Matters. WORKING is a gardener’s term for the practice of grafting. “To work” upon a stock is to graft or bud it. WORMS are beneficial in all the WOR 634 ‘peyher rh? pe Ahi rht a ory Pp pit nhs Neen der ebayer beep re ey Jp dvb paar ahpheg err Mee hed CTACBEL EB fh y i : pe ene Gite far htl Maia Ad eit Y , peer Me fam bbe As BEDE HOF hove Lo) (ii APH E: Yo hate Abt ee ae aie Welt Bae: Pera beim rye t gett { ny rte Visit ve ib SAT a | Ky erate bat B>eveer rrp eR # i i ve bw pels ht Ay Grek erkigeye ae thrh & Wh a Altre wee rT ay Vel AEH HIE! Be oe e tate vil hl bee bene by Poy Vrtan Avice rashid ees hit iGiah ty Adele in b BHD ee id, Tea eer bid rye: Pi yal aseiple we Freee hig eee NSC NIC En: Peet PR a { Mite vei tiedt anes ere ar ive Ot) 7 Ried. Ole tee Peary) ehihiren ¥ peae(et na ee! yee DOA We Hiatt shed NCA RIO UL IEE Apr ii the Var ie ah thet A openeterit! ic btaa iad ew seuss Yea ie ve. wh Paral yey wekett yen PWR aid bids ie Oe Tolga oa on se Ait e) q 4 Teast baat ; V4 lp En Sey ok Y Piru Eleete kobe Hinze ED sa | bekbye 4) erat Haat, + rane a) a tS pape ry eye ts bree S) BIN IE abe ts HERAT EDM} shee Te AP Fait HF ' (pps wha aT Leo | Tiharpatale +4 Te eautots yy poe Pee Wok bs (OS bee aps te Hobe der ee i : AN Bates Sat ea HP deb hey rie Vii hte ache dew bree WLS aes Sieh pines UP Me Aarvn yk yC nen DCT MIME tl td (ait eoeds a Sea iE aa) Ve vemrpspemr nin oY ee Feb Aree pe ee te eas aia WYO indie 23 tila tA ae bene a Wipe peaches RE De) TOPE) it fee pen bebe bye feytre Tie) tree PPE deme Tn ort Wise hay vai} Hwy 40 a) hah ile EATS bebe See lire bth Ola $e6rn TO da ene tale a} te ee phenittb VEE BAR DAY Phifer Hey heseebeu rod ‘Brey ay me ‘ i a we bribery Sart te Ve St ed ee ny AY t » Wer htal ysis 2 by heard fh tee 8 btieess iM AL , r tet be ¢ . Pty thee? ANT es a Fey Dean eh, Ah ens i t a wee L) Bh Pees b Vib piace BF brs bts hog hee e be