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12

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

PRESENTED BY

PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID

_>JF-a

DUTCH BULBS

..HOW TO USE THEM TO BEAUTIFY
YOUR HOME AND GARDEN".

DARWINTULIPS IN LONDON PARKS. A FINE BORDER FOR YOUR GARDEN.

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CO

» °

DUTCH BULBS.

JDS'/

Dutch Bulbs! Magic words, that picture
glorious visions before the mind's eye, all over
the world. They sound like music to anyone
knowing Dutch bulbs, and no wonder. Is there
any flower that helps so intensely to chase away
the gloom and dreary dusk in the darkest months
of the year, from our dwellings, from our very
souls! How quite different our room looks in
December, when winter's sadness gets wiped
away by putting a pot of the scarlet tulip ,,Duc
van Tholl" in the window sill. It is just as if
these bright-red children of nature bring into '
your home light and beneficial warmth, fore-
boding hopes and expectations.

And when the dark month of January is there;
when wind and snow and rain and sleet make
life outdoors a misery, how delightful is it to see
on the little table in your hall, or here and there
in your drawing room pots of hyacinths, with
their delicate colours, their beautiful shapes, i
and their delicious scent.

Nature seems dead during the winter months;
the leafless trees and shrubs, the beds without
flowers, the lack of colours in a place we knew
a few months ago as a joy, as a spot full of
brightness, makes our garden into a fhing we
don't think about anymore, till real spring
comes, and trees and shrubs show their first

D

tender green leaves. But for those who know
better, the garden will remain, even in a time
, when nature is generally ,,at its worst", that is
in January, February and March, a treasury, a
place full of promises and realisations. Those
who knew better, planted in autumn: Snowdrops;
Winter Aconite, Glory of the snow (Chiono-
doxa); Squill (Scilla), of different kinds and
Crocusses. And now when the sun is out in the
last days of January, or the first days of
February, we may venture a walk in our garden,
looking for the bright yellow flowers of the
Winter Aconite. And a little later, even when the
snow is on the ground, the lovely Snowdrops
and the blue Squill of Early Spring, with its
bright blue flowers. We have not to wait till we
see the first leaves to know that Nature is still
wide awake; and all those little gems tell us of
the coming Spring. They are all promises of a
near future, when Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissi
and Irisses will take their place and cover the
soil again with a blaze of colour.

To get proper results however with bulbs, in
the garden, in the greenhouse, or indoors, it is
necessary to know exactly how to treat them,
and we therefore will give in this booklet some
hints which will, if followed accuralety, lead to
success. J. F. CH. Dix.

M3O5638

A few words about the history of ,, Dutch Bulbs".

Bulbs are now fully acclimatized in Holland,
although they were for the greatest part impor-
ted from the Far East.

The tulips, originally from Persia & Asia
Minor, found their way to Constantinopel, where
they were first seen (in 1554) by de Busbecq,
ambassador of Emperor Ferdinand I at the
Court of the Sultan, who sent seeds or bulbs to
Europe. A few years later Conrad Gesner was
the first who saw tulips flowering there, viz at
Augsburg (Bavaria). The renowned botanist
Clusius, who met de Busbecq at Vienna distri-
buted many bulbs of tulips to this friends in the
Netherlands. So the tulip came to Holland where
the growing of this bulb should later on become
such an important part of cultivation.

In the first part of the 17th century the cul-
tivation of tulips developed very quickly and far
quicker than one should have expected the tulip
became popular. Every body who had a fair
seized garden wanted tulips. Remarkable is it j
that at that time people valued most the varieg
ated tulips, that is: — red, pink or purple flo-
wers, white or yellow striped, or marbled. These
variegated tulips were obtained by propagating
the sports of the ordinary kinds, which contained
- as a sportstripes etc. The more stripes the
more valuable the tulip! It was a fine hobby,

which, alas afterwards degenerated into gam-
bling. This foolish gambling in tulips lasted
from 1634 — 1637. All kinds of auctions were
organised; and the enormous amount of money
paid for tulips made people invest their saving
in bulbs. People of all trades: weavers, tailors,
black-smiths etc. started bulb growing, trying
to make a fortune quickly.

Capital for carrying on the bulb trade was not
immediately necessary, because at the time the
tulips were sold, the bulbs were still in the
ground; very often they had not even bloomed.
The sale therefore was merely an exchange of
contracts. The same purchase changed hands
several times, even on a single day. That is why
it was possible for the prices of the bulbs to soar
as they did and that at the time of delivery a
fabulous sum had to be paid. And even that was
not enough; they contrived to weigh the bulbs
on an assay balance, and sold them, not per
piece, but per asen (28 asen = 1 dram, 16 drams
= 1 ounce). A well developed bulb weighed
1000 asen or more. At an auction one bulb of
the tulip ,,Vice Rot" was sold for 4200 guilders
(£350:0:0), and one tulip: — ,,Admiraal van
Enckhuysen" fetched 5400 Guilders (£450:0:0).

Such an absurd trading led to the most serious
excesses, and fortunately the States of Holland

in 1637 decided to stop this sort of thing and
published their decision bv giving out a procla-
mation. Hence the cultivation of tulips could be
developed along normal lines, what indeed hap-
pened. After many ups and downs the present
high standard was attained, and whosoever
visits in spring the Dutch bulb nurseries must
be struck as well by the wealth in form and
colour, as well as by the long flowering season.

As early as 1585 we find a description of the
Hyacinth by Clusius; and in 1612 the double
Hyacinth was known. Unlike the tulip who became
the favourite of the flower-lovers in a few years,
the Hyacinth took longer time before she attai-
ned her so well deserved position. But in the j
years 1734 — 1736, the same happened with the
Hvacinth as a century previously with the Tulip;
the Hyacinth became gradually the favourite,
high prices ware paid and it was feared that the
trade should degenerate in the same way as had
hanpened with the Tulip trade. Very luckily it
did not become as bad as that, and soon normal
conditions prevailed. Troughout the last two
centuries the Hyacinth has maintained its high
position in the flower world, and by enormous
improvements in the cultivation have the Dutch
bulbgrowers brought the Hvacinth within the
ranpe of a still growing number of flower lovers.

One of the first known bulbs is the Narcissus,
although its cultivation only started in the 16th

century. As early as 370 B. C. the Narcissus was
mentioned! But only since the end of the 19th:
century the bulb-growers devoted their full
attention to the Narcissus and it is astonishing
to see the results ! The growers have made
enormous strides, and they are still going on
making a great variety in shape and coulour.
There are already ,,Trumpet" narcissi, with pink
trumpets; Cupshaped narcissi, with bright red
cups. The modern Narcissus belongs to the
nobelest and best of whatever is produced in the
open.

Most of the bulbs, apart from the three kinds
already mentioned, have their own history more
or less short, more or less interesting. The scope
of this little book however, does not allow me to
go deeper into the matter.

The cultivation of bulbs in Holland has gra-
dually become a thing of national importance.
Thousands and thousands of people earn their
living with it. Everything is done to get the most
perfect results, to attain the highest quality so
as to keep up the high standard that Dutch
bulbs always had.

To make it possible to deliver bulbs of
superior quality, every precaution is taken,
nothing is left to chance. It is astonishing to hear
about the enormous capitals involved, to see the
specially planned sheds and store-houses. The
composition of the soil, and manuring is treated

along scientific lines • it is pure laboratory
work. So is the continual struggle against insect
pests, and special bulb diseases, which are
studied in bacteriological laboratories. Practi-
cally everything is done in Holland to keep up
the standard of one of the national prides: -
the Dutch Bulb.

Bulbs for the garden.

In early Spring, when Nature is still asleep,
we want in our gloomy, leafless garden some
colour; and no plants are able to give us such a
glorious blaze of colours at that time as the
bulbs. Hardly has ,,Jack Frost" gone --it may
be that snow still covers the ground --or the
snowdrops (,,Galanthus nivalis") makes their
appearance and opens their little flowers on the
first sunny day. Very often they are open simul-
taniously with the Winter Aconite (Eranthis
hyemalis), making bright yellow patches on the
barren ground. Very soon the ,,01ory of the
Snow" (Chionodoxa), joins the first comers,
with its trusses of 6—10 starry, bright blue and
white flowers. And those lovely little flowers
don 't show their beauty in succession. Usually
the Mother Earth is covered with these white,
yellow and blue patches of flowers simul-
itaniously. It even happens that when a few late-
comers amongst the snowdrops are still in

bloom, the Blue Squill of Early Spring or Scilla
sibirica shows off its bright strong-blue flowers.

We have mentioned only four out of at least
a dozen lovely little spring bulbs. Try to find in
your garden a spot where the midwinter sun
sends its rays just for a couple of hours, and
you will have your results earlier than usual.
Plant your Winter Aconites one inch under the
surface of the soil; your Snowdrops about 2'/2
inches; your Squills and Chionodoxas about 2
inches deep; and you can expect splendid
results. Don 't lift them in summer: leave them
undisturbed, and gradually in time to come they
will grow into big patches.

And all those little bulbs are only the ,,Van
Guard" of the big army that is coming in a
month time: the Narcissi, the Hyacinths, the
Tulips, Irisses etc.

Did it ever happened that you were in the bulb
district in Holland during April and May ? If so
the wealth of shape and colour must have struck
you. Even on dull days the bright yellow of the
Narcissi has a pleasing effect. The delicate
shades of the Hyacinths have, wether you see
them in bright sunlight or under a covered sky-
always a charm of their own. As a matter of fact,
one recognizes always from afar a bed of
Hyacinths; when you have once seen them you
never will make a mistake; a Hyacinth by its
lovely form and incomparable colours is a most

THE GARDEN IN EARLY SPRING: CROCUSSES ON BEDS.

(Foto L. Blok).

striking plant. And when the sun shines and the
sweet-scented breeze is towards you - it is
something never to be forgotten. As a striking
contrast look at those beds where the colours
run riot, bright scarlet, reds, and yellows. They
aie beds of early tulips, just as clarion calls in
the stillness of the spring.

A still greater attraction have the late May
and June flowering tulips: the Darwin, Cottage,
Breeder, Parrot, Rembrandt tulips. Nearly all of
them have long elegant stems and they can be
had in an infinite range of colours. Fancy a bed
of those glorious tulips, slightly moved by a
breeze, it is a wonder of beauty.

And realize that all the lovely things, all the
beauty we have spoken about, is within your
reach. Even if you posses a small garden you can
enjoy the beauty of bulbs and that for a com-
paratively small amount. Indeed the bulb
material for gardens is nearly inexhaustible and
happy the man who knows well how to use it.

Bulbs for Bedding.

The custom of making ,,flower beds" is a very
old one, and although in the last thirty years the
making of borders and the planting of flower
groups among shrubs took the place of the old
fashioned Victorian mosaic beds (and rightly
so), a well' arranged bed of bulbs, surrounded

by well kept turf, remains very attractive indeed.
Of course one has to select the proper kinds of
flowers to make a bed ,,do it". The early spring
bulbs, we spoke about in the beginning ,,Snow-
drops, Aconites, Squills and Chionodoxas cer-
tanily will not do. They are better planted
amongst shrubs, in the border of a shrubbery.
Even Narcissi will not do so well in a bed. We
plant them by preference in clumps in the grass
- under trees or in a border. The best bulbs
and corms for bedding are Tulips, Hyacinths,
Anemones, Crocus (although they are lovely in
the grass), Dutch, Spanish and English Irisses,
Scilla campanulata, etc. They all attract the eye,
they have a regular habit of growing; and,
because of the infinite range of colours, they can
be made to a part of the whole colour scheme.
The planting is comparatively easy. Rake your
bed, and take away the top soil to a depth of 3
in: for tulips; 3 — 4, in: for Hyacinths. Put the
top soil on a heap next to the bed. Dig the bed
well, adding, if necessary, decayed manure. Pirt
your bulbs on top of the raked soil, and bring
carefully the top soil over the bulbs, rake the
top of the now finished bed smooth. If planting
Tulips, Hyacinths, or Irisses, take 60 — 80 per sq.
yard. Crocus or Sciila 90 — 100 per sq: yard. It
depends largely on the climate whether it is
necessary to cover the bed as a protection against
cold weather. In the South of England it won 't

be necessary, in Scotland it will. Splendid
material is straw, rushes, or peat crumbled up.
It must be remembered however that when milder
weather sets in the covering must partly be taken
away. The winter covering can be as thick as 4
inches.

Hyacinths.

(6O — 65 per sq. yard).

The making of a bed of Hyacinths of one
colour, gives, of course, no difficultv at all. Har-
der is it to plant a bed with different kinds,
because we want about the same height, and also
a great harmony of colours. We don 't want
colours that clash.

Magnificent Hyacinths for ,,one-kind-beds"
are: -

La Victoire, (red) ;

Beauty, Generaal de Wet, Gertrude, Lady Derby,

Marconi, and Queen of the Pinks, (roseandpink) :

Arentine Arendsen, General Vetter, L'Innocence,

Mad. Kruger, and Queen of the Whites,

(white) ;
Dr. Lieber, Enchantress, General v. d. Heyden,

Grand Maitre, King of B'ues, Perle Brillante,

Queen of the Blues, and Schotel, (blue) ;
City of Haarlem, and Yellow Hammer, (yellow) ;
Marchioness of Lome, and Oranje boven,

(orange) ;

King of the Violets, Lord Balfour and Sir Wil-
liam Mansfield, (violet).

Lovely combinations.

For a lovely combination of two different
kinds in one bed. We recommend:
Sir William Mansfield (violet) and Yellow

Hammer (yellow) ;

Arentine Arendsen (white) and La Victoire (red);
La Victoire (red) and City of Haarlem (yellow):
Queen of the blues (light blue) and Queen of the

Whites (white);
Perle brillante (light blue), and L'Innocence

(white) ;
King of the blues (dark blue) and Marchioness

of Lome (orange);

King of the blues (dark blue) and Yellow Ham-
mer (yellow);
Grand Maitre (blue) and General de Wet (light

rose).

We can 't recommend more than two different
kinds in one bed. Because there is a chance that
the whole gets too motley, unless the bed is a
long one, bordering a lawn. If so the best com-
bination should be to start with: L'innocence
(white), going on with: Perle brillante (light
blue), Grand Maitre (blue), King of the Blues
(dark blue), General de Wet (light rose), Lady
Derby (rose), Gertrude (dark rose), La Victoire
(red), Marchioness of Lome (orange), City of

Haarlem (yellow), to finish with Sir William
Mansfield (violet).

Tulips.

(7O— SO per sq. yard).

Just as with hyacinths one can get beautiful
effects with tulips. There are many possibilities,
but one has to restrict oneself to one or two
different kinds in one bed. As the colours — as
a rule are brighter than those of hyacinths,
specially the early tulips — the chance to get a
motley bed is greater.

The Due van Tholl tulips are the best for an
early show. They bloom in the end of March and
the beginning of April. There is a great variety
in coulours: scarlet, yellow, white, rose, orange
and red with yellow margin. Every variety has
its own special charms.

Single Early Tulips.

The so called single early tulips succeed the
Due van Tholl. They bloom later. They have a
longer stem, a larger flower and the variety in
colours is again a rich one. This kind is for bed-
ding purposes simply brilliant. The following
are splendid for single bedding: Artis (scarlet),
Belle Alliance (scarlet), Chrysolora (yellow),

Cottage Boy (yellow and orange), Couleur Car-
dinal (cardinal red), Cramoisi brillant (crimson
scarlet), Flamingo (clear crimson and white),
Yellow Prince (yellow), Generaal de Wet (pure
orange), Hobbema (pigeon rose), Ibis (dark
rose), Keizerskroon (red with yellow margin),
King of the Yellows (golden yellow), Lady
Boreel (pure white), La remarqiiable (wine red-
purple), Max Havelaar (salmon-orange), Peli-
kaan (white), Pink Beauty (rose), President
Lincoln (heliotrope mauve), Prince of Austria
(orange red), Rose luisante (bright rose and
white), The Rising Sun (pure yellow), Van der
Neer (purple), Vermillion brillant (vermillion).
and Woiiwerman (purple violet).

We give here only those of which we know by
experience that they do extremely well. There
are of course other kinds, not mentioned here,
which will give satisfaction.

Combinations of Single Early Tulips.

To get a good combination of two different
kinds of single early tulips, we recommend:
Fred Moore (bronze) and Yellow Prince (yellow);
Van der Neer (purple) and M on Tresor (yellow);
Wouwerman (purple violet) and Man Tresor

(yellow);

Flamingo (rose) and White Hawk (white);
Prince of Austria (orange red) and La Remar-
qiiable (wine red purple) ;

8

THE DUTCH BULBDISTRICT IN SPRING: DAFFODILS.

(Foto L. Blok).

Joost van den Vondel (dark cerise red) and Lady

Boreel (white);
Crimson Queen (cerise red) and Calypso (light

yellow) ;
Verrnillion Brillant (vermillion) and Princess

Helene (white);
Couleur Cardinal (cardinal red) and Prins van

Oostenrijk (orange red) ;
Artus (red) and Chrysolora (yellow);
Cerise gris-de-lin (mauve rose) and Yellow

Prince (yellow) ;

La reine (white roseate) and Ibis (dark rose) :
Max Havelaar (salmon orange) and Van der \

Neer (purple).

For a long narrow bed we should recommend \
to start with: Lady Boreel (white). Next to it:
President Cleveland (pale rose), and then Fla-
mingo (bright rose), Ibis (dark rose), Mac
Kinlev (brick red), Vermillion brillant (bright
vermillion), Belle Alliance (dark scarlet), Prince
of Austria (orange red), Max Havelaar (orange), ;
The Rising Sun (golden yellow), Herman
Schlegel (light yellow), President Lincoln (heli-
otrope), Van der Neer (purple), to finish with
Wouwerman (purple red). The effect of this
bed is delightful but it is absoluty necessary to
make the bed very lone: in proportions to the
width. We suggest a width of 4 feet, and a length
of 60 feet, planting of every kind about 100
bulbs.

Double Early Tulips.

These tulips give a very satisfactory result
indeed for bedding, specially when spring is not
too wet. The big flowers develop then fully,
and the effect is wonderful when the sun shines.
Beds in one colour are very beautiful, providing
kinds with a sturdy stem are planted. So that
they can stand inclement weather. The following
kinds are to be recommended: Cocheneal (bril-
liant red), Boule de Neige (white), Electra
(bright carmine red), Golden King (pure golden
yellow), Imperator rubrorum (scarlet), Lac van
Haarlem (violet purple), Luminosa (orange
scarlet), Mr. van der Hoef (bright yellow), Mu-
rillo (pale rose), Orange Nassau (dark oranee).
Peach Blossom (bright rose), Rosea Perfecta
(bright rose), Schoonoord (pure white), Tea
• (sulphur yellow with salmon) and Vuur-
baak (glowing orange scarlet). There are of
course other kinds, not mentioned here, which
will give satisfaction.

Fine good combinations.

For a combination of two kinds in one bed,
we recommend:
Muri'io (pale rose) and Schoonoord (pure

white) ;
Mr. van der Hoef (yellow) and Oranje Nassau

(dark orange) ;

10

Mr. van der Hoef (yellow) and Electra (bright
carmine) ;

Imperator rubrorutn (scarlet) and Tea rose (sul-
phur yellow salmon);

Lac van Haarlem (violet purple) and Scltoon-
oord (pure white);

Lac van Haarlem (violet purple) and Mr. van
der Hoef (yellow) ;

Golden King (golden yellow) and Vuurbaak
orange scarlet) ;

Vuurbaak (orange scarlet) and Schoonoord
(white).

A fine combination in one bed is:

Electra (bright carmine), Mr. v. d. Hoef (yel-
low), and Schoonoord (white);

Oranje Nassau (dark orange), Mr. v. d. Hoef
(yellow), and Tea rose (light yellow);

Peach Blossom (dark rose), Murillo (light rose),
and Schoonoord (white) ;

Rosea Perfecta (rose), Peach Blossom (dark
rose), and Murillo (pale rose);

Imperator rubrorum (scarlet), Vuurbaak (orange
scarlet), and Oranje Nassau (dark orange).

For a long narrow bed, we recommend (in
succession): Schoonoord (white), Murillo (pale
rose), Peach Blossom (dark rose), Vuurbaak
(orange scarlet), Imperator rubrorum (scarlet),
Golden King (golden yellow), Air. van der Hoef
(yellow), Tea rose (pale yellow), Electra (car-

mine) to conclude with, Lac van Haarlem (violet
purple).

Darwin Tulips.

It is hardly possible to say too much about this
perfect tulip, bven one single bulb, with its flo-
wer most elegantly poised on its long slender
stem, coming out of the beautiful greyish-green
leaves is a tning of beauty. And then a whole bed
of it, the loveiy flowers continually moving at
itte sligntest breeze; just as if the whole mass is
alive: makes an impression never to be forgot-
ien. One could call the Darwin Tulip the Aris-
tocrat" of tulips. We can 't recommend this bulb
too strongly, even in small gardens it does well.
If we plant only Darwins in the bed we want
70 — 80 per sq: yard. But very often the Darwins
are planted in a bed of Forget-me-not, Phlox, or
, iuid. mis is done to leave the bulbs undistur-
bed after flowering, so that they can ripen. The
withering leaves are more or less hidden by the
,,Forget-me-nots" etc: In the latter case only
about 50 are wanted per square yard.

As all Darwins make a glorious effect wnen
planted in one colour, it is not necessary to draw
the attention to one special kind. Every bulb
catalogue will give you a great number of
colours to choose from. When two colours are
wanted for one bed, we suggest: —

11

Bartigon (geranium red) and Gretchen (pale j

rose) ;
La Tulipe noire (black) and Bleu aimable

(heliotrope);
Feu brilliant (bright scarlet) and La Candeur,

(cream.);
Ph. de Commines (violet-brown) and Rev. Ewbank

(mauve).

Lovely combinations of Darwin
Tulips.

Europe (bright red) and Madme Krelage (rose);
Pride of Haarlem (cerise) and Baronne de la

Tocnaye (rose);

Zulu (black violet) and Clara Butt (salmon);
Bleu aimable (heliotrope blue) and La Candeur

(cream) ;
Scarlet beauty (bright scarlet) and Suzon (pale

rose) ;
City of Haarlem . (dark red) and Princess Eliza- \

beth (rose).

A brillant effect can be obtained by planting ;
in a long narrow bed, or as a border: La can-
dear (cream), L'ingenue (very light rose),
Aphrodite (silvery rose),. Edrnee (vivid rose),
Princess Elizabeth (dark rose), Europe (brown
red), Feu brilliant (dark scarlet), City of Haar-
lem (deep red), Feu brilliant (dark scarlet), City
of Haarlem (deep red), Pride of Haarlem (cerise),

Raphael (purple with carmine violet), Giant
(dark purple), Viking (purple), Ronald Gunn
(slate-purple), Bleu aimable (heliotrope blue),
Mauve Clair (white and mauve), Zulu (black
violet), and La Tulipe noire (black).

Lovely combinations in one colour in different
shades may be had by taking:

For pale rose: La Candeur (cream), L'ingenue
(very light rose), Gretchen (pale rose), Suzon
(pale rose), Flamingo (pale rose).

For rose: Aphrodite (silvery rose), Madme
Krelage (carmine rose), Edmce (vivid rose),
Princess Elizabeth (deep rose), Clara Butt (sal-
man rose), and Centenaire (deep rose).

For red: Europe (bright red), Princess Juliana
(orange scarlet), Bartigon (geranium red),
Scarlet Beauty (bright scarlet), Air. Farncombc
Sanders (scarlet red), Feu brilliant (deep scar-
let), City of Haarlem (deep red), Pres. Taft
(deep red), Millet (dark red) and Pride of Haar-
lem (cerise scarlet).

For mauve-violet: Mauve Clair (white and
mauve), La tristesse (silvery mauve), Anton
Mauve (pale mauve), Bleu aimable (blue-violet),
and Ronald Gunn (slate purple).

For purple and black: Raphael (purple car-
mine), Paul Baudry (bronze violet), Greuze
(blue violet), Valentin (purple), Frans Hals
(deep purple), Giant (deep. purple), Viking (deep
purple), Viola (very deep purple), Faust (brow-

12

THE DUTCH BULBDISTR1CT IN SPRING: HYACINTHS.

(Foto L. Blok).

nish black). La Tulipe noire (black), and Zulu
(blackish violet).

It is very pretty to make small beds of Dar-
wins near the edge of the lawn, each of 25 — 30
bulbs. Every colour gets its due and the general
aspect is surprisingly beautiful.

Dutch Breeder Tulips.

Breeders are = olden time = tulips.
Bulbgrowers used to get from them the striped
and marbled ones. They remind in form of flo-
wer and length of stem the Darwins. The flowers,
on a long and elegant stem have about the same
form but there is a great difference in the colour-
ing. Special features in the Breeders are the
Bronzes, Browns, Violets and Purples, and the
beautiful bloom just as on plums and grapes.
The beauty of Breeders shows at ist best, when
the bulbs are planted in front of evergreens, so
as to give the flowers a back ground. There are
many who do extremely well in a bed of one
colour, especially the following kinds: Golden
Bronze (golden bronze — very selected), Clio
(light bronze), Feu Ardent (unique mahogany
red), Chestnut (brownish black), Dom Pedro
(coffee brown), Hamlet (dark bronze with light
edgings), Jaune d'Oeuf (rose mauve with gol-
den colour), Louis XIV (metal blue with deep

14

bronze), Maria Louise (salmon with orange
edging), Panorama (stately orange red), Prof.
Schofel (brifht violet mauve). Rot de Siam
(purple violet), Sons Pareil (deep violet purple),
Wilberforce (apricot), St. lames (old rose with
bronze edgings) and Virgilius (shiny violet).

A group, full of harmony one can get by plan-
ting in a long bed the following in the same suc-
cession (50—100 bulbs of every colour); Golden
Bronze (golden bronze), Bronze King (bronze
and yellow), Coridion (bright yellow with
bronze), Jaune d'Oeuf (rose mauve with wide
yellow margin), Plutarchus (light bronze and
vellow), Clio (light bronze), Old Times (copper-
bronze), Yellow Perfection (yellowish olive),
General Nev (olive bronze), Ab-del-Kader
(olive with dark bronze), Goldfinch (dark gol-
den bronze), Marainata (orange) and Madras
(dark bronze brown).

Another beautiful border or bed may be had
bv planting: Black Diamond (brown black),
Chestnut (brown black), Prince Albert (maho-
gony brown), Dom Pedro (coffee brown), and
Man Tresor (brown red).

A third suggestion is: Le Miroir (blue violet),
Sappho (violet), Roi de Siam (purple violet),
Bacchus (purple violet), Louis XIV (metal blue
and bronze), Chester J. Hunt (violet) and Char-
les Dickens (rose red).

Cottage Tulips.

The variety in Tulips is nearly infinite, spe-
cially in the late ones. We mentioned already
the Darwins and the Breeders. The Cottage
Tulips sometimes called the single late Tulips
form a group by themselves. We saw that the
Darwins and the Breeders have a great simi-
larity in form. The Cottage Tulips are quite
different. Some flowers have more or less a
chalice form, others are long and pointed, some
have long others have shorter stems.

Pure whites and pure golden yellows are
characteristic although there are many otfier
lovely colours. It is worth while to have a good
show of them in the garden. For one-coloured
beds the following kinds are highly recommerj-
dable: Amber (light amber), Boadicea (dark
orange), Bouton d'Or (golden yellow), Carrara
(pure white), Columbus (yellow-marbled red),
Gesneriana lutea pallida (pale yellow), Idyl
(vivid rose), John Raskin (salmon pink-tinted
orange), Mr. Dames (yellow), Mrs. Kerrell
(fleshy rose), Mrs. Moon (golden yellow),
Orange King (bright orange), Pride of Ingles-
combe (white with pink margin), Sir Harry
(mauve rose), etc.

Beautiful combinations with
Cottage Tulips.

It is quite obvious that with this brightly
coloured type of tulips one can get magnificent
effects. Best is to avoid all formality in arran-
gement and to plant them in groups in front of
shrubs. The effect is then gorgeous. A com-
bination of Orange King (bright orange), and
Bouton d'Or (golden yellow), or the pointed Mrs.
Moon (golden yellow), with Mrs. Kerrell (rose),
or Sir Harry (mauve rose), with Solfatare (light
yellow) is brilliant. For contrast should suggest:
the wine coloured Oraniana, with the golden
yellow Bouton d'Or, or Pluto (carmine-violet),
with, Bouton d'Or. Very effective is the Darwin
Ph. de Com/nines (black) and Cottage Bouton
d'Or or Darwin Bleu aimable (mauve) with
Bouton d'Or. One gets, however one of the finest
displays of the Cottage tulip, when planted in a
group, with a more or less-undulating margin
line in the following order: Carrara (pure white),
Solferino (pale yellow), Bouton d'Or (golden
yellow), Boadicea (deep orange), Orange King
(bright orange), John Ruskin (salmon pink),
Mrs. Kerrell (fleshy rose), Sir Harry (mauve
rose) and Doris (rose violet). This is, of course
only a suggestion, one can make, with the help
of an up to date catalogue of a reliable bulb-
grower a great number of beautiful combina-

15

tions. As in the whole reason of gardening: =
taste = is the great factor.

Broken (Striped) Tulips.

From the Darwins are the Rembrandt-Tulips
arised, and from the Dutch Breeders the Bizar-
res, the Roses and Violettes. It happens some-
times that, for reasons up till now unknown, all
of a sudden in a bed of tulips of the same colour
one or sometimes more appear with stripes • —
white or another colour. They were then called: ;
broken tulips, because the unity colour was
broken. Amongst those sports of the Darwins and
the Dutch Breeders are wonderful specimen of [
beauty. They form again a type by themselves
and attract the eye of every connoisseur by their
form and colour. They are really marvellous
flowers of a great charm. The Rembrandts, Roses
and Violettes tulips are rose red, mauve or violet '•
striped or marbled white, the Bizarres are striped
or marbled yellow.

The most successful planting of this kind of
tulips is in round beds, each containing 25 — 50
bulbs, along the edge of the lawn, separated by
a yard of turf.

A few other types of Tulips.

,,The Parrot Tulips are for a bold arrangement
of strong colouring, and few flowers give so

16

gorgeous an effect, and they twist and tumble
about in a way that help their manipulator to
dispose them in natural-looking, informal-
looking, informal groups."

So we read once in an English garden paper.
Quite so — but our advice is to plant the Parrot
tulips partly between, partly in front of shrubs
and not on beds as they are inclined to ,,flop
down", Bulbgrowers - - however - - have suc-
ceedeed in growing Parrots of a sturdier habit,
but they are still a novelty. Those, of course can
be planted in beds, and produce then a wonder-
ful effect, because of the large fantastically
formed flowers.

One of those novelties is ,,Fantasy", a sport of
the Darwin ,,Clara Butt", and is of the same
colour: a beautiful salmon pink.

Lily-flowered Tulips are also a novelty. They
are crossings of the Cottage Tulip retroflexa and
the Darwins. One of the first was Sirene, of a
glorious satin pink with curved petals just as we
see that in some lilies. It is a splendid acqui-
sition and fine for bedding. Adonis (vivid pink),
Alaska (golden yellow), Artemis (bright carmine
rose) etc., although beautiful, have not that
charm that Sirene has.

Mendel Tulips, crossings of the short-stemmed
and early Due van Tholl and the long-stemmed
and late Darwin, are the latest novelty. They
are very beautiful, but very expensive. The flo-

THE DUTCH BULBDISTRICT IN SPRING:

SINGLE EARLY TULIPS.

(Foto L. Blok).

wers, of exquisite colouring, standing from
12 — 16 inches above the soil, are of extra large
size and reminds one of the general colour aspect
of Darwins.

Species Tulips are Wild Tulips, very useful
for borders and rockeries, although a bed with
Greigi, a large sized flower of a wonderful
orange and with beautiful spotted leaves is a
sight not to be forgotten.

Tulips in combination with
other plants.

We have already spoken about a combination
of Darwins with Forget-me-not. To get good
results it is advisable to plant the bulbs and the
other plants in autumn at the same time. Plant
the bulbs at a distance of 8 — 10 inches, and the
other plants in between. A few good examples
of combinations are given here:
Red — yellow or orange Tulips with blue forget-
me-not;

Arabis alpina (white) and Fred Moore (Bronze);
» ,, ,, Cottage boy (orange);

„ „ „ „ Red or pink Tulips;

Primula veris (orange var.) and Bronze or

orange col. tulips;
Phlox canadensis (lilac) and Darwin Rev. Ew-

bank;
Aubrietia deltoidea (blue) and Rose Darwins;

Cerastium tomentosum (silver-white) with black

or purple tulips.

The Violas are also splendid material for
combined bedding taking either the tulip of the
same shade as the viola, or as a contrast —
colour f. i. yellow violas and purple tulips.

As we said before, an advantage of those
combinations is that at the time the bulbs are
finished the other plants give a nice carpet to
the bed covering more or less the withering bulb
leaves.

Anemones.

(8O per sq. yards).

The Anemones with large single flowers as the
Caen Anemones resembling the poppies are
with their graceful green foliage very useful for
bedding although the effect is more striking when
planted between low shrubs. They are planted
in spring in the beginning of March, one inch
deep in well manured soil. The Caen Anemones
are usually offered — mixed — although they
are now-a-days already grown in separate
colours. It is therefore not impossible to have a
bed with blue, red, or violet anamones. Amongst
the red ones is one fine selection under the name
of Hollandia obtainable. They are splendid
flowers for cutting. Next to the Caen Anemone
comes the Anemone St. Brigid. They remind us

18

of the Chrysanthemum, and are good for cutting
too. Three other kinds of Anemones are planted
in Autumn: the St. Bavo Anemone, the intensely
red Anemone julgens, and the lovely Anemone
fulgens multipetala. They give all a wonderful
display of flowers and there can easily be found
a small corner in every garden to plant them.
But they want sun. Apart from the above men-
tioned one can find .other named varieties, single
and double, in every good bulb catalogue, giving
flowers in white, rose , red, pale and dark blue
of an intensity, one could hardly wish better.

Crocus.

(1OO per sq. yards).

We do not think it necessary to sing a song of
praise of the crocus. If there is one bulb (it is not
really a bulb as the tulip or hyacinth — but a
corm), very wel known, it is the crocus. And yet
not everybody knows what can be done with tnis
so extremely decorative little flower besides
making beds or circular bands round rosebushes
with them. The decorative effect of this flower
comes forward, when we plant crocusses in our
lawn, or in the border of our shrubbery or in
our flower border, or here and there in our
rockery. 0 those lovely big patches of golden
yellow or mauve or purple in our lawns in early
spring when everything looks bleak and forlorn,

those bright spots under the still bare shrubs !
One hour of sunshine, and all the flowers are
open — wide open — and give in exchange for
that pale wintery sunlight strong oranges, whites
and purples, (t is a joy we have been hoping for,
weeks and weeks before hand.

If you plant crocusses in beds do not plant
them mixed. That is very rarely a success. The
bed looks too motley and not restful. If formal
planting is decided upon take two colours, one
for border another for centre. If a very long bed
is open plant in the same way as we advised
about hyacinths and tulips. Start with white and
go on with light blue, blue, dark blue, yellow,
mauve, and finish off with violet.

Iris.

(7O per sq. yards).

We plant the bulb in autumn about 2 inches
deep. If we plant in beds it will be best to give
those beds a not too conspicuous place in the
garden, because when the flowering is over the
withering leaves on the bed are more or less an
eye sore. Better is to plant irisses among other
plants in the border so as to hide the withering
foliage in the upshoots of the other border plants.

The flowers are simply matchless. Their shapes
and colours are most beautiful and remind one
very often of the orchid. That is why they have

19

called the Iris the ,,Poor man's Orchid". The
Dutch Iris is the first-comer, and flowers in June.
Next comes the Spanish and last of all the Eng-
lish Iris. It is only in time that one wins it from
the other, not in brilliancy or beauty of form,
they are all beauties, adorned with the most
delightful colours. We do not grow the Iris for
the beauty of the plant as a whole, we grown it
mainly for the flower. As cut-flower the Iris is
priceless.

Scilla campanulata.

(8O per sq. yards).

Blue Bells are extremely well suited to cover
bare soil under shrubs, standard roses etc. Still,
those who use Blue Bells as a bedding plant
only, will enjoy the result. Blue Bells flower in
May very profusely. They can be had in white,
blue and pink. The foliage is a deep green and
above it the elegant trusses of flowers show very
prettily.

Blue Bells are planted in Autumn about 2
inches deep and may remain in the same bed for
several years, just as the Crocus. Planted in a •
bed, they have to be thinned out occasionally.

- . .

Bulbs for the border.

I

One can not imagine a modern garden without

a border. One has learned to appreciate the
freedom and the restriction, the elegant lines and
the natural grouping of plants. Very often bor-
ders are made to screen off or to hide ugly or
monotonous environments of a garden, fences,
walls, sheds, outhouses etc. Formerly one used
ivy, or for that purpose evergreen shrubs or
coniferae but even with some variety in colour,
the eye met only green in different shades. The
adding of flowers made of that same screen a
thing of beauty, it became an intrinsic part of
the garden. And now-a-days ? A border wants
at least the same attention as any other part of
the garden, and we study every year very care-
fully how to improve it, how to make in an har-
monious way the necessary changes. Fine
material for a border are bulbs. The flowers give
a brilliancy to the whole just then when colours
are badly wanted, at a time when the border is
nearly empty, or just starting. There are people
who object to planting bulbs in a border, because
of the bare patches left when the flowering is
over. It is just here, where the judicious gardener
steps in. He knows where to plant bulbs that
have not to be lifted after flowering. He will
plant them among the perennials. When the
latter start growing the bulbs are high up and
when the bulbs are finished the perennials cover
with their foliage the withering leaves of the
bulbs. Bulbs and Hyacinths have to be lifted.

20

When this is done immediately when the flowe-
ring is over and they are stored for ripening in
a trench, somewhere in the back of the garden,
the seedlings of annuals are ready to fill up the
open spaces or in case of early bulbs, there is
still time enough to sow there the annuals. To be
sure of success with bulbous plants in a border
care has to be taken about the soil. Either the
soil has every two yars to be renewed or old
manure has well to be worked in (this applies of
course to the places where the bulbs have to be
planted). A bulb wants a lot of food, it i.s a gross
feeder, and when the bulb is finished there is not
much food left.

Patches of twentig five to fifty bulbs form
nicely groups.

For plants in front of the border we use of
course small hardy plants 2, 3 or 4 inches high.
The following ought not bo be lifted, as they
make gradually lovely patches; Anemone aptn-
nina (Apennine Windflower) bright blue and
An. ap. alba, pure white (3 in.). They thrive
well in leafy soil, and are planted in September
and October 1 — 2 in. deep. Bulbocodium vernum
(Spring meadow saffron) reminds one of the
rose purple crocus. The 4 in. high plant flowers
already in February. Chionodoxa (Glory of the
Snow) is a lovely little plant 2 — 3 in high. The
bulb is planted in September and October 2 in.
deep. The best kinds are Chionodoxa Luciliae

(blue with white centre), Chionodoxa Luciliae
alba (pure white), Chionodoxa gigantea (bigger
flowers-blue) and the Chionod. sardensis (dark
blue). The Colchicum (meadow saffron) flowers
in autumn. The bulb is planted in July and
August, and starts flowering without making
foliage in October. Next spring it develops rather
big leaves. It is therefore no advisable to plant
Colchicum too near the edge of the border. The
colours are white, mauve and violet.

Corydalis (Fume wort) is very pretty, specially
Cor: Halleri (violet red), Cor. cava (purple red)
and Cor: Alleni (yellowish white). They attain a
height of 5 — 6 inches and flower in March and
April.

About the general use of Crocus we spoke
already. Beside the spring crocus there is a
special kind called the autumn and winter flo-
wering crocus. Of the autumn crocusses we should
like to mention: Crocus sativus or saffron crocus,
Crocus speciosus (dark blue) and the Crocus
zonatus (pale mauve-rose). The bulbs of autumn
crocus are planted in July and August 2 in. deep.
The tulip Due van Tholl wants a place right in
front of the border. Planted in patches of 25 or
thereabouts they will not fail to make a glorious
splash of coulour.

Plant right in front of the border the Eranthis
hyemalis or winter aconite. As said before, the
bright yellow flowers delight our eye when all

22

the plants are still fast asleep. The Erythronium
(Dog's tooth violet) is a lovely little plant with
her beautifully spotted leaves and drooping
flowers 5 — 6 inchess high, white, purple and rose.
It flowers in March. Plant in September and
October, about 3 inches deep in not too heavy soil.

We spoke about the Galanthus or Snowdrop.
Big patches in the border of it next to the Aconite
make a lovely show in very early spring.

Of the Iris family, we find a few specimens
specially good for the border. The Iris histrioides
(light blue) and the Iris reticulata (dark blue
with a lovely scent of violets) attain a height of
4 — 6 inches. Plant them in August, early
September in not too heavy soil, 2 inches deep in
a sunny spot.

The Muscari or Grape Hyacinth is very well
known. The white and the blue Muscari on their
5 — 7 inch high stem (specially the blue, with its
strong colour) do very well everywhere, either in
the rockery or the border, and attract at once
the eye. The flowering time is March and April.
Plant bulbs in October 2 inches deep. The
Puschkinia libanotica or Striped Squill reminds
one of Scilla. The flower spikes, about 6 or 7
inches high, appear in April. The saxony-china-
blue flowers grow in trusses. Plant in early
autumn 2 — 3 inches deep. The Scilla sibirica
(the blue squill of early spring) is already
mentioned. The strong blue, quite different from

the Muscari produces a lovely effect. The Triteleia
(also known as Brodiaea uniflora or Spring Star
flower) is a hardy bulb bearing lovely starry
mauve, white flowers on a stem about 7 in. high.
It flowers in April. It thrives w;ell in any corner,
provided that it is sheltered and sunny.

The taller bulbous plants add a great charm
and enormous attraction to the border. As a mat-
ter of fact, all the tulips already mentioned can
find a suitable spot in the border. Of course, one
should not plant them indiscriminately. One
should take in account the time of flowering
(early or late tulips) the height and the volume
of colour (do not plant f. i. a big patch of glaring
red tulips leaving the surrounding part bare). Be
careful with very strong colours. Do not put your
Darwins, Breeders and Parrot tulips too much
in the front, and do not forget that when flowe-
ring time is over there is sufficient perennial
material around to hide the gradually withering
leaves of your bulbs. Be careful when planting.
Striking for the border is a group of tulips of the
same height in mixed colours. Hyacinths do also
well in a border, specially small groups of
miniature hyacinths.

Very artistic are the Alliums (of the family of
onions and garlic). (Do not pick the flowers for
the drawing room please !) The Allium giganteum
and the Allium Rosenbachianum (40 — 60 inches
high) are fine objects for the border. They flower

23

with big violet coloured flower balls. The Fritil-
larias, the Crown Imperials (24 — 40 inches) as
well as the Snake's Head Fritillary (12—18 in.)
both flowering in April, May, is another bulb,
splendid for the border. The first should be
planted 4 in. the latter 3 in. deep, in September,
early October. For growing in Southern gardens
on a warm and sheltered position we can
emphatically recommend the Ixias. They flower
abundantly in the most striking colours, as a
matter of fact the colour schemes of Ixias cannot
be compared with that of any other flower. The
bulbs should be planted in September or early
October, about 3 in deep, and it is advisable to
give them a good protection against possible
frosts. The stems reach from 12 — 20 inches.

The Lily the aristocrat of the garden is always
a feature. If planted with care, there is no trouble
or difficulty whatsoever in growing them in your
garden. Plant your bulbs so that the top is
covered with 4 or 5 inches of soil. When your
soil is heavy, dig a hole about 1 cub. foot and
fill it with a mixture of loam leafmould and
sand. The bulb should rest on a layer of 1 inch
of • sharp sand, (for draining purposes). Once
planted do not meddle anymore. A lily bulb
wants to settle down, does not want to be distur-
bed. If planted this way you can be sure of
success. Plant your lily bulb amongst low
shrubs or low perennials so that the young shoots

are not exposed to a scorching sun in the
morning. The best lilies for the border are :
Lilium auratum (white with golden stripes),
Lilium candidum (pure white), the so called
Madonna Lily. Lilium croceum (orange yellow),
Lil. Martagon (purplish red), Lilium pardalinum
(scarlet spotted orange), Lilium regale (white
tinted lilac). — Lilium speciosum grows into a
fine clump, but a little shade is necessary,
Lilium Thunbergianum (in orange and yellow),
Lilium umbellatum (orange and reddish brown).
Last not least we plant here and there patches
of Narcissi. Fine clumps of Narcissi do very well
in any border. Lift the bulbs every two or three
years and replant the strong bulbs, and store in
an odd place of your garden the young ones.

Bulbs for rockeries.

To add a gay note to your rockery in Spring
when the Aubrietias, the Cerastiums, the Saxi-
fragas, the Sedums, the Sempervivums etc., are
just starting, gaining new life, the small bulbous
plants are indispensable. Plant in small quan-
tities (do not overdo it !) here and there.
Anemone, Bulbocodium (spring meadow saffron)
Chionodoxas, Crocus, Fume wort, Due van Tholl
tulips, Winter aconites, Dog's tooth violets,
Snowdrops, Iris reticulata, Grape Hyacinths

24

A CORNER OF THE GARDEN. TRY IT!

(Muscari), Narcissus triandrus, Narcissus Bul-
bocodium, Striped squills, Squills, Spring star
flowers, Tulipa Greigi, Tulipa Kaufmanniana,
Tulipa liniflora and other kinds. One plants of
course small patches because the colour patch
must not be too blatant: it should only be a gay
note without disturbing the quietness of the
rockery.

The above mentioned plants may remain in the
same place for years undisturbed. Give in the
autumn a little weak liquid manure — mind : a
little — and our wee friends will do their duty in
early Spring.

Bulbs in grass.

A good well-kept lawn is one of the parts of
the gorden to be proud of. Especially in summer
when the lawn is surrounded by beds or Doraers
full of colour. The beautiful deep green of the
grass shows better because of the contrast. In
the very first days of spring and in the last days
of winter a lawn with empty flower beds and
bare shrubs around it does not look half so
cheerful for the simple reason that there is no
contrast and the grass lacks that deep emerald
green of summer. Yet we can make of that same
uninteresting lawn again a spot of beauty by
planting in autumn bulbs in it. We spoke alreauy
about planting crocusses not formal but in the

way nature scatters its flowers over the meadows
We first scatter the crocusses about over the
lawn here perhaps 8 or 10 there 1 or 2 in a
rather haphazard way. We bore, with a very
blunt dibbler, holes and plant in each hole a
crocus filling up the hole with soil. Give towards
the end of autumn on a sunny day the lawn a
good mowing and roll it. In spring all the cro-
cusses will come up, and, because the grass has
not been growing worth mentioning, the leaves
of the crocus very soon show in the short grass.
About the time that the flowers are open the
grass gets its first push, a lovely bright green.
The contrast between the bright crocussus and
the young grass is simply lovely. What we do
with crocusses, we can do with other small
bulbous plants as well. For sunny places we take
Bulbocodium, Crocus, Fritillaria meleagris,
Snowdrops, Leucojum and Narcissi (although
for the last few, we have to mow the grass
round it in the first month, as the leaves are
not so quickly gone). For shadowy places we
should use Chionodoxa, Corydalis, Winter Aco-
nites, Grape Hyacinths, Striped Squill and Squill.

Bulbs for wild gardening.

The soil under standard roses, shrubs and
fruittrees is usually a place were the gardener
weeds, or rakes, that is all. Most people put up

26

with the idea that it has to be a bare patch of
ground, to be kept clean and tidy. But we can
make of that same bare patch a thing of beauty,
if we only apply bulbs and bulbous plants. We
have of course to prepare the soil a little. We fork
lightly, without disturbing the roots of the
existing plants and bring some old, not coarse
manure, in. We plant now Winter Aconite, Glory
of the Snow, Squills, Snowflakes, Fume Wort
Grape Hyacinths, Dog's Tooth violets, Narcissus,
Lilies (low ones), Anemones, Brodiaeas,
Camassias (Quamash in three different kinds)
and Star of Bethlehem. The effect next spring
will astonish you. Try it, it is worth while.

Forcing of Bulbs indoors,

There are few things more appreciated than
those self done or made. So is it with children:
a self made doll is far more valuable than a
bought one, even that the bought one is most
perfect. Exactly the same applies to grown-ups,
and to grown-up-gardeners particularly. I do not
know one hobby so fascinating as gardening.
And the gardener is proud of his result. In that
result is all his patience (months and months of
it, if you please) all his toiling and moiling in
all kinds of weather, all his hopes, all his anxiety.
In the plant or, flower or fruit he has grown is
more than the actual value and that is why his

result in his own eyes has a far greater value
than the same thing, may it be as perfect as
possible, bought in a shop. When the weather in
Autumn and Winter is so bad that work in the
garden is impossible, the attention is drawn to
gardening indoors. That is, in most cases, the
growing of flowers, raising seedlings etc. Most
of this work when there is no greenhouse
available will bear results next Spring. But one
wants flowers indoors in Wintertime, and for
that purpose the bulbs cannot be beaten. In little
wooden boxes, in earthenware pots and pans, In
vases, in glasses, even on saucers, one can grow
them. And nearly everybody can give a helping
hand, nearly everybody of the family can have
flowers of her or his own. And the costs are
comparatively small. There is one ,,but": only
with ,,first rate" bulbs one can expect success !
Deal only with a good well established bulb
grower, he does not overcharge. Cheap bulbs are
always second hand stuff, and although there is
a chance that they will turn out well one cannot
rely on them.

One of the most interesting ways of growing
hyacinths is to grow them in glasses. It is not
only interesting but delightful because every
phase of the growth can be followed. One can
watch continually the development of the plant.
Everybody knows the bulbglasses — a conical
form with opening in the form of a cup. The cup

27

is just wide enough to contain the bulb. Fill the
glass with clear water so that when the bulb is
put in the cup its base is about one fifth of an
inch above the water. This is to prevent rotting
of the bulb. One has to inspect at least once a
week this water level, or rather the distance
between the bulb and the water, and to refresh
occasionally the water. Put now the glasses in a
dark cool cupboard, and wait for the results. Do
not try to apply heat so as to force the first
process of growing. In a few days time white
points appear at the base of the bulb, which
points grow out into sturdy white roots. Gra-
dually a yellow point will be seen at the top.
Keep the glasses still in the dark, till out of that
yellowish white top grows a big flower bud.
When this bud has grown about half an inch
standing quite free from the neck of the bulb,
bring the glasses in the light - - gradually -
not immediately in the full light of the window
sill. The yellow leaves and flowerbud will,
because of the sunlight, turn green in a day or
two. Dust occasionally the leaves and bud with a ;
soft brush, or spray them with tepid water to
remove the dust. To prevent the bulb toppling
over when it is full-grown and the bulb gets top
heavy, the glass sometimes is filled up to one-
third of its height with clean pebbles. The roots
work themselves in between the pebbles. Another
way is, to stake them, or to use a wire support.

The most important thing is to put the bulbs not
to soon in the light.

Instead of growing hyacinths in glasses one
can grow them in bowls. Make a layer in the
bowl of crocks. Put the bulbs on top. Those bulbs
may be hyacinths, crocusses or narcissi (for the
latter take either Chinese or Paperwhite Narcissi).
Fill up the spaces between the bulbs with pebbles
so as to keep the bulbs in position. Pour water in
till the crocks are immerged and put your bowl
in a dark cool cupboard. Instead of crocks, one
can take very sharp sand. Do not forget adding
water occasionally . The bowls with crocusses
should after sufficient developing in the dark
not be brought in a warm soom. To get best
results with crocusses, one has to keep them cool,
even during the blooming period. Crocusses do
splendidly on wet sand. Fill a deep saucer with
sharp sand and put the corms on top. Keep the
sand wet (this is a fundamental rule), and keep
the saucer in a cool room.

Another way of raising flowers from bulbs is
to grow them in fibre. Practically all bulbs
(hyacinths, tulips, crocusses, snowdrops, scillas,
chionodoxas, aconites etc.), can be grown in
fibre, but keep to the fundamental rule • — give
the roots always the same amount of moisture —
never too much — never short. It is always
advisable to make at the bottom of your bowl,
vase, or what else you may take -for growing

28

your bulbs in a draining layer of crocks or sand
and to keep so now and then your receptacle
slanting, to pour off the superfluous water to
prevent rotting.

We can expect results — if we start, say in
October - if we are lucky at Christmas time,
but certainly we can have flowers indoors during
January, February and the first weeks of March, j
We can prepare our glasses, bowls etc., in relays
not all at the same time, and get therefore a
succession of flowering bulbs.

Simultaneously we can prepare our flowerpots,
pans, boxes etc., for forcing partially out and
indoors. Fill your receptacles very loosely with
sifted soil, not previously used for growing bulbs
in, and press your bulb in it so far that only the
very top shows. Press with your thumb the soil
firmly down round the oulb, and fill up the open
space up to the edge of the pot. Dig a shallow
trench about 4 in. deep in your garden, as much
as possible out of the sun, and put your pots
etc., at the bottom. Fill up your trench till there
is about 4 inches soil on top of your pots, and
cover end November the little mount with straw,
leaves, or peat. Inspect, so now and then your
bulbs, and bring the first most advanced ones
indoors from the middle of January onwards.
Before you cover your pots, soak the soil well,
and of course, put crocks at the bottom of the
trench and in the pot. The same kind of bulbs,

mentioned for fibre forcing can be used for this
purpose, but do not take Darwin, Breeders or
generally late tulips. Your florist or else your
bulb grower will tell you what to use. In the
trade are specially prepared hyacinths for forcing
purposes. With this kind one gets even earlier
results.

Forcing of Bulbs in the
warmhouse.

We start in tne same way as described
previously about potting in soil. After taking the
pot out of the trench we bring it in the warm-
house and keep it there in a dark place till the
flower buds apear. The temperature of the house
should be kept at 65°— 70° Fahrenheit. When
one sees the flowerbuds put the pot in very
subdued light and bring gradually the plant in
stronger light. Everybody who has worked in a
greenhouse will know how to act according to
the different circumstances. In this way it is not
only possible, but quite certain that one can have
a fine display of flowers at Christmas time. The
following tulips give a splendid result: all the
Due van Tholls, Mon Tresor, Proserpine, Brilliant
Stcr and Rose precoce.

For half January we recommend: Fred Moore,
Cramoisi brilliant, Lady Boroel, La Reine, Prince

29

of Austria, Vermillion brilliant, Yellow
Prince, Keizerskroon, Flamingo, Calypso, Herman
Schlegel, etc. Double tulips from half January
onward: Boule de Neige, Couronne d'Or, El
Toreador, Golden King, Murillo, Peach Blossom,
Salvator Rosa, Schoonoord and Tea rose.

Of the Darwin tulips we mention: William
Copland (lilac) and Allard Pierson (brown)
ready in January. For the first weeks of February:
Bartigon (red), Le Notre (rose), Victoire
d'Oliveira (wine red), and William Pitt (red),
and Mr. Farncombe Sanders, Professor Rauwen-
hoff (red), Princess Elizabeth (rose) for the end
of February. Of course, all these tulips may be
forced later.

We spoke already about the special prepared
hyacinths for forcing. After the first two weeks
of January there can be a great variety of
Hyacinth blooms ready. We give here a good
selection: La Victoire (red), Electro (red),
Generaal de Wet (pale rose), Gertrude (dark
rose), Lady Derby (vivid rose), Moreno (rose),
Queen of the Pinks (a late one, rose), L' innocence
(white), Dr. Lieber (blue), Ftirst Bismarck
(blue), Grand Maitre (blue), King of the Blues
(dark blue), Queen of the Blues and Schotel
(pale blue), Distinction (purple wine red), Lord
Balfour (violet), City of Haarlem and Yellow
Hammer (yellow), Orange, boven (orange).

Of the Narcissi, we recommend: Golden Spur

30

(golden yellow), Emperor (pale yellow), Empress
(white and yelow), Glory of Sassenheim (white
and yellow), King Alfred (very large flower • —
golden yellow), Spring Glory (white and yellow),
Victoria (white and yellow), Lady Moore (white
with red crown), Conspicuous (yellow with red
crowns), Sir Watkin (pale yellow with slightly
darker cup), White Lady (white), Horace
(snowwhite with red bordered cup), Ornatus
(snowwhite with red bordered cup), Admiration
(with flower trusses in yellow and orange),
Early Perfection (trusses of white and yellow
flowers), Double of Sion (double-yellow).

One has to be careful with forcing crocusses.
The results are splendid when the forcing is done
very slowly and the temperature is not too high.
Unless this is continually kept in mind, the
flower buds will dry out between the too fast
growing leaves.

Irisses, specially the new Dutch kind are grand
for the greenhouse, but they will not stand quick
forcing. The same applies to Gladioli. With
great success are lately used the glasshouses for
bulbforcing on a big scale. The bulbs are
planted immediately in the soil and .no artificial
heat is used. The heat of the sun is' doing the
work. The flowers, thus grown are about 3 or 4
weeks earlier than those grown in the open.

Spring Bulbs.

There are several bulbs, which are planted in
Spring, to bloom in Summer. One of the most
important kinds amongst them are the Gladioli.
They are priceless in the summer garden, and
give as cutflowers the greatest satisfaction. As
with the Irisses, every bud develops into bloom.
They can be planted in single groups or amongst
low shrubs. When planted as solitaires or in
groups the taller kinds want staking.

Other kinds of spring bulbs and tuberous
plants are: the Anemones (we spoke about them
previously) the Tuberous Begonias (a finer
bedding plant with its gorgeous flowers hardly
exist) the Dahlias, Montbretias, Tigridias etc.,
etc., etc. They all add most abundantly to the
beauty of the garden, provided they get a sunny
spot and good soil.

A few hints,

Order your bulbs in time.

Give your order to a thoroughly reliable bulb
firm. Buying bulbs is altogether a matter of trust.
An amateur cannot see on the outside of a bulb
what it will do later on. It is the pride of a good
bulb merchant to sell only the best. He knows
that his new customers will come back to thim
when they want a fresh supply.

When you have received your parcel unpack
the bulbs immediately and if it is impossible to
plant them there and then, put them down, each
separately, in a cool dry place out of the sun.

If one takes to heart all the hints given in .this
booklet, there is no doubt about one's success

CONTENTS.

Pag.

Dutch Bulbs 1

Bulbs for Bedding 6

Anemones IS

Crocusses 19

Hyacinths 7

„ . Lovely combinations of 7

Iris 19

Scilla campanulata 20

Tulips 8 ;

„ . Beautiful combinations of Cot-
tage 15 '

„ . Broken (Striped) 16

„ . Cottage 15

„ . Darwin 11

„ . Lovely combinations of Darwin 12

„ . Double Early 10

„ . Fine, good combinations of

Double Early 10

Pag.

Tulips. Dutch Breeder 14

„ . Single Early '.......... ' 8

„. . Combination of Single Early ... 8

„ . A few other types of 16

„ in combination with other plants 18

Bulbs for the border ............. 20

Bulbs for the garden .'. 4

Bulbs for rockeries 24

Bulbs for wild gardening 26

Bulbs in grass ....'. 26

Forcing of bulbs indoors 27

Forcing of bulbs in the warmhouse 29

Hints, A. few 31

History of Dutch Bulbs, A few words about

the : '."• 2

Spring Bulbs .....'..... 31

Printed by Floralia - Assen - Hollani

GAYLORD

BROS., INC.

Manufacturers 1H

Syracuse, N. Y.
Stockton, Calif.

M305638

THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY