O? MASg ^fRSt DATE DUE UNIVERSITY OF MASSACHUSETTS LIBRARY '^ '/' The Encyclopedia of Practical Horticulture -Maxted Photo The Encyclopedia of Practical Horticulture A Reference System of Commercial Horticulture Covering the Practical and Scientific Phases of Horticulture with Special Reference to Fruits and Vegetables Editor-in-Chief GRANVILLE LOWTHER Associate Editor WILLIAM WORTHINGTON Assisted by the best known scientific and practical horticulturists throughout the country, and particularly in the Northwest . . . Illustrated Volume II PUBLISHED BY THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF HORTICULTURE CORPORATION W. M. FLEMING, President NORTH YAKIMA. WASHINGTON, U. S. A LIBRARY UNiVERGiTY OF MASSACHUSETTS AMHERST, MASS.. Copyright 1914 by Encyclopedia of Horticulture Corporation PRESS of LowMAN & Hanford Co. SEATTLE BUREAUS OF U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE— BUSH FRUITS 665 Bureaus of U. S. Department of Agriculture Weather Bureau — C. F. Marvin, Chief. Bureau of Animal Industry — A. D. Mel- vin, Chief. Bureau of Plant Industry — W. A. Tay- lor, Chief. Forest Service — H. S. Graves, Forester. Bureau of Soils — Milton Whitney, Chief. Bureato of Chemistry — C. L. Alsberg, Chief. Bureau of Statistics — L; M. Estabrook, Statistician. Bureau of Entomology — L. O. Howard, Entomologist. Bureau of Biological Survey — H. W. Henshaw, Chief. Office of Public Roads— L. W. Page, Di- rector. Office of Experiment Stations — A. C. True, Director. Bush Fruits After the selection of a proper site for the growing of bush fruits, the most im- portant factor entering into it, is the man. This has been demonstrated so of- ten, and in so many parts of the coun- try, one man succeeding where another fails, that it needs no extended proofs here. We will refer to our article on ap- ples as an illustration showing how by the choice of good varieties, and by the proper care in packing and marketing, one man will make a good profit, while another will barely live. Card in his book on "Bush Fruits," says: "The yield of black rasp- berries for a given year, as reported by 58 growers ranged from 567 quarts per acre to 9,600 quarts per acre." Just how much of this difference was due to un- avoidable conditions, and how much to preventable circumstances, is not known; but our observation leads to the conclu- sion, that much, very much, depends on the man. "The yield of blackberries per acre as reported by 50 growers, ranged from 1,280 quarts, to 10,000 quarts. The average was 3,158 quarts per acre." The highest yield shows the possibilities of high productions under favorable condi- tions, the low yield shows what to ex- pect under poor conditions with poor management. It is conceded that all the bush fruits, except perhaps cranberries, do better in a deep rich soil, well drained, than under other conditions. Perhaps in no section of the United States do berries produce larger returns than in the Pacific coast region. Here, nature seems to have fur- nished the conditions of soil and climate best adapted to this kind of fruit. In the Rocky mountain and Alleghany mountain regions it is conceded that a rich loam, with a clay subsoil, is better for most varieties, while for some, a sandy loam is best. Generally, a good corn and potato soil, is good for small fruits. However, for certain kinds of fruits, especially raspberries, a north slope is better than a south slope because they reach a higher development, where the sun is not too hot. A considerable de- gree of humidity in the atmosphere is also favorable. The roots of small fruits do not extend so deeply into the ground as the roots of the larger trees like apples and pears, therefore require more moisture near the surface of the soil, and are more quickly affected by drouth. Fertilizers It is impossible to tell, without know- ing the character of the soil, what fer- tilizers should be used. Some soils are full of humus, and to add fertilizers of that character would be superfiuous. Gen- erally, where there is an abundance of humus, there is a lack of some of the mineral elements necessary to a good crop. Other soils lack humus, because they are located in the arid or semi-arid regions, where vegetation has grown but little. These soils are generally rich in mineral elements, because the soils have not been leached by rains and fioods. Some soils are disintegrated lime stone, and to add lime might injure them, while others are disintegrated sand stone or basalt. A soil analysis is necessary in order to know intelligently what to add and what fruits are best adapted to cer- tain conditions. 2—1 666 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Selection of Varieties There are several considerations which should determine the varieties of any particular species of fruit that should be grown. First. Selection in reference to soil adaptations. Certain varieties of fruits have become adapted to certain condi- tions. These conditions must be ob- served if the best results are to be reached. There are varieties better suited to sandy soils, others to clay, others to black loam, and a study of the nature and habits of the species, or variety of the species, before planting, may obviate much disappointment. Second. Selection of varieties in refer- ence to climate. The U. S. Pomological Society divides the United States and Canada into districts and gives a table of fruits recommended for each district. These recommendations have been made with a good deal of care, and while they might be amended by the State Experi- ment Station, or by the experience of growers in any particular locality, they nevertheless have much merit, and it would hardly be considered prudent for the amateur fruit grower, to select his varieties, without consulting their tables. Third. Selection of varieties with ref- erence to altitude. There are places in the United States where 100 feet in al- titude will make as much difference in the temperature as 100 miles further north. Fourth. Selection with reference to frost. There are three conditions that tend to protect from frost. The first is al- titude, or elevation above the surround- ing country. This does not mean, neces- sarily a high altitude; but it means that in relation to the lands around it, there are lower lands, toward which the cold air will gravitate. The second influence affecting frost conditions is evaporation from large bodies of water. A body of water radiates heat less rapidly than the earth's surface. Therefore, in the autumn, the earth cools faster than the water. When the prevail- ing winds come from a large body of water as a sea, or lake, the atmosphere in the autumn is warmer from the water surface, thus preventing early autumn frosts. In the spring time, the earth ab- sorbs heat faster than the water surface, thus the breezes coming from the body of water are cooler, and the budding of fruit is delayed beyond the frost period. Ex- amples of this are seen on the Pacific coast, Michigan bordering on the lake, and other portions of country similarly situated. The third influence affecting frost is air drainage. To have good air drainage a tract should be so situated that there are no obstructions to the free passage of the cold air downward. A pocket will be frosty. Wherever the air tends to stag- nate there will be a tendency to frost. Locations in gaps, gorges or canyons opening out into valleys or broader spaces afford good drainage as there is usually a movement of air forced by the pres- sure from the higher lands and the broad opening permits a free escape. This cir- culation of air tends to prevent the frost from forming. Fifth. Location with reference to mar- kets. It makes a great deal of difference, in handling tender and perishable fruits, whether they are hauled or shipped long or short distances. A long haul, over the ordinary country roads, often bruises and injures the fruits, so that when they reach the local market, they are unsale- able. A long distance shipment takes time, and in that time, the fruits are more or less damaged. Besides the extra expense of a long shipment there are dangers of delays, wrecks and other losses, that often cause trouble. Other things being equal, it is much better to have an orchard near the markets. For the different varieties of bush fruits treated, see under their respective names: Blackberry, currant, gooseberry, huckle- berry, raspberry. Gbanville Lowther BY-PRODUCTS OF THE APPLE 667 By-Products of the Apple The utilization of cull and possible sur- plus apples is a matter of economic im- portance, and may, in many instances, mean a difference between profit and loss in the apple business. Just as the great packing concerns utilize every particle of their raw material and allow nothing to waste, so can the grower utilize his cull apples in many ways and check or prevent waste. There is a special use for every part of the apple. Seeds are used by large nurserymen for growing ap- ple seedlings. The skin and core are preferred by the jelly makers on account of high sugar content and the coloring matter of the skin. The pulp or flesh is used for canning, evaporating, apple but- ter, apple paste and other products But the greatest value is in the juice. The maker of juice products strives first of all to get the greatest possible amount of juice from his apples. The amount of juice that the apples contain depends upon the condition of ripeness, as well as upon the variety. An over ripe apple is mealy and contains less juice than one in prime condition. Also cer- tain varieties such as Jonathan and Wine- sap contain more juice than certain other varieties, such as Maiden Blush and Rome Beauty. A bushel of good cider apples in prime condition should contain from four to five gallons of juice. The amount of juice that is actually taken out depends largely upon the efficiency of the machinery. The large hydraulic presses with a pressure of from three to five hun- dred tons seldom get more than four gal- lons to the bushel, while the small hand presses seldom get more than two and one half gallons to the bushel. Just as the last strippings of a cow's milk is the richest part of her milk, so the juice that is left in the pomace after the first pressing is the richest of the juice. In fact after the first pressing by the best presses it is figured that from 25 to 40 per cent of the sugar content still remains in the pomace. We shall see as we proceed that the sugar content largely determines the quality of the juice, for most of the products made therefrom. The pomace therefore, is very often soaked up and repressed. The products of apple juice may be discussed under three main divisions as follows: Plain apple juice or sweet cider, reduced apple juice, and products of fermentation. Sweet Cider It would seem that the simplest mar- ketable product of apple juice is sweet cider, which is the juice just as it comes from the press. It is a simple matter to make sweet cider, and it is a market- able product for which there is a good demand. But it is not such a simple mat- ter to keep cider sweet, without in some way impairing its quality. In fact this difficulty of properly preserving sweet cid- er has undoubtedly been the greatest bar- rier to the proper development of the sweet cider business, and likewise the greatest barrier to satisfying the demands of a sweet cider loving public. Difficulty of Keeping Cider Sweet In order to understand something of the cause of the difficulty of keeping cider sweet, it is necessary for us to know something of the composition of apple juice, the processes of fermenta- tion and the organisms which cause fermentation. This will be explained more fully in discussing the products of fermentation. It is only necessary here to explain that certain minute organisms enter the juice Immediately upon its be- ing exposed to the atmosphere. Un- der ordinary conditions these organisms develop and multiply rapidly and in doing so transform the sugar of the juice into alcohol. When the formation of alcohol has begun still other organisms enter and change the alcohol into acetic acid. It can be readily seen then that the prob- lem which the sweet cider man has to solve is the controlling or stopping of the work of these organisms. The general practice for many years has been the use of such chemical pre- servatives as benzoate of soda, boric acid and salicilic acid. Benzoate of soda is undoubtedly the preservative that is in most general use, and probably the one that gives best results, so far as chemicals 668 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE are concerned. But even benzoate of soda comes far from giving entire satis- faction. Its use impairs the quality of the juice and does not completely prevent fermentation. Its use is limited by the pure food laws to 1/10 of 1 per cent. Recent investigations by the United States Department of Agriculture have proven the feasibility of other and better methods of preserving sweet cider. The first of these is the cold storage method. It is well known that these ferment or- ganisms do not thrive at a low tempera- ture. Under this method the cider is taken immediately from the press and cooled rapidly to 32 degrees Fahrenheit, and is then held in storage at that temperature. In the Government tests* the juice was held in this way for from 36 to 70 days without noticeable fermen- tation and was held for from 90 days to 125 days before being considered "hard" or "sour." Another method tried out by the Gov- ernment and which bids fair to come into general use is that of sterilization or pasteurization. By pasteurization we mean heating the juice to a temperature that will kill any of the ferment organ- isms which may be present. * It was found that to slowly heat the juice to the required temperature gave it a de- cidedly cooked taste. But a Pasteurizer was devised by which the desired temp- erature was obtained very quickly, under which condition the cooked flavor is scarcely noticeable. The Pasteurizer used for this purpose consists of a steam box in which is a coil of pipe. The juice is passed through this coil and can be taken out at any desired temperature, depending upon the rate of flow. It is heated up to 170 de- grees Fahrenheit and put at once into sterilized containers, care being taken to avoid any possibility of contamination. It must be remembered that hot juice put into a barrel or other container will shrink upon cooling and thus leave a space at the top of the container. For *Ref. Clr. No. 48, Bureau of Chemistry, U. S. Department of Agriculture. ♦Note, Bui. No. 118, Bureau of Chemistry, U. S. Department of Agriculture. this reason the containers are not bung- ed tightly until the juice has cooled. A small hole is bored in the bung. This hole is stuffed with cotton which has been previously soaked in alcohol, so that the air that passes through the cotton is sterilized. When the juice has cool- ed a wooden skewer which has first been sterilized is driven into the hole and sawed off on top. Cider preserved in this way should re- main sound and sweet indefinitely. In the experiments carried on by the Gov- ernment the cider was perfectly sound and sweet at the end of six months. Apple juice may be put upon the mar- ket in reduced forms. Cider boiled down to one-fifth of its original bulk has almost the density of syrup. This product is used in making pies, sauces, apple but- ter and in other cooking. It finds ready sale at good prices in the Eastern mar- kets. Apple juice reduced to one-seventh or one-eighth its original bulk becomes jel- ly. Special apparatus for reducing apple juice rapidly is to be had on the open market. We are now ready to discuss some of the ferments and the products of fer- mentation. It has been said above that when apple juice is exposed to the air in a moderate temperature fermentation begins almost immediately. Fermenta- tion starts in because certain minute yeast cells which are nearly everywhere have entered the juice and have found an ideal place for their development and multiplication. On this development and multiplication they are doing certain work. They are changing the sugar of the juice into carbon dioxide and alcohol remains in the juice. After fermentation has started but is not yet complete we have what we call "hard cider." By the term "dry cider," or "apple wine," we mean cider that has completed the alco- holic ferment, or, in other words, cider in which all the sugar has been turned into alcohol. But cider or wine making is not such a simple matter as it might appear. As soon as the alcoholic ferment has begun. BY-PRODUCTS OF THE APPLE 669 if the juice is still exposed to the atmo- sphere, other ferments which are injuri- ous or destructive to the making of good wine are bound to enter. The thing of primary importance to the cider or wine maker then is avoiding contamination of his liquor. The juice as it comes from the press is put at once into barrels which have been thoroughly steamed or scalded. The barrel is filled only about three-quarters full to avoid overflowing during the period of tumultuous fermentation. When the juice has been put into the barrel a fermentation funnel is imme- diately put into the bung and tightly sealed around the edge of the bunghole with parafiine or vaseline. A fermentation funnel is so arranged that the gases from within the barrel escape, but the air from without cannot enter. In recent j^ears some of the ferment yeasts have been separated into many varieties and pure cultures made of these varieties. It has been found that fermen- tation may be hastened by the use of cer- tain pure culture yeasts, and also that the flavor of the wine depends largely upon the variety of yeast used. After fermentation has been completed the cider is drawn off from the top into freshly sterilized containers, leaving the lees and sediment in the bottom of the old containers. The new containers are tightly bunged and sealed and stored in the cellar ready for use. Perhaps the product of apple juice which is most extensively made in this country at the present time is vinegar. In the manufacture of vinegar, as in the apple industry itself, quality is of first importance. The element of quality in vinegar is largely determined by the per cent of acetic acid. The law in most states requires vinegar to test from four to four and one-half per cent acetic acid. Much of the vinegar made on the farms, in a haphazard way, not only will not stand this test but, on account of decom- position or other cause, is unfit for use, and does not find a ready market. On the other hand a recent writer on the subject says: "Apple cider vinegar is demanded by the trade. There is not one-tenth enough pure cider vinegar made in this country today to supply the ever-increasing de- mand." To make a good product the vinegar maker must first have pure apple juice which must test not less than nine per cent sugar; 10 per cent to 12 per cent is much better. It is upon this sugar con- tent of the juice and its subsequent chem- ical changes from sugar to alcohol and from alcohol to acetic acid that the man- ufacture of vinegar depends. (1) Sugar ^Alcohol+Carbon Dioxide C^H'=0«=2C=H^O=+2CO- [ Water (2) Alcohol -fOxygen=Acetic Acid+ C^H-'O -fO =C='H*0^+H=0 Theoretically, to get a four per cent acid vinegar requires a cider containing four per cent alcohol. And to get a cider containing four per cent alcohol we must have a juice containing eight per cent sugar. In practice it is best to leave a little margin above these figures to allow for incomplete chemical change or waste. The vinegar maker therefore strives to get a juice as rich as possible in sugar content. The sugar content of the juice depends upon the conditions of ripeness of the apples as well as upon the variety. While an apple that is underripe has not yet changed its starch to sugar, an apple that is overripe has in some peculiar man- ner lost some of its saccharine substance. An apple must therefore be in prime con- dition of ripeness to show highest sugar content of juice. Many tests of varieties have been made, and published lists of the sugar content of different varieties are to be had. It is a simple matter for anyone to make this test with a saccharometer. In prac- tice, however, the vinegar maker seldom has the chance to select his varieties, but must take a mixture of the varieties as they run. It is enough here to say that the average mixture of varieties, if in good condition, will test sufficiently high, and that our favored winesaps and Jonathans are both high-testing varieties. 670 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE The minute organisms that are respons- ible for changing the sugar content of apple juice to the acetic acid of vinegar require special conditions in order to thrive and do their work. The practice of modern vinegar making has been greatly facilitated by a knowledge of the habits and requirements of these organ- isms, and a proper manipulation of the juice to fill these requirements. The yeast plant, which, as has been stated above, is responsible for the alcoholic ferment, thrives best in a temperature of 75 de- grees to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. If the storage room be kept at this temperature the alcoholic ferment should be com- pleted in about four weeks. Special yeast cultures are sometimes used to hasten the process. The acetic ferment, or the bacteria, that are responsible for the chemical change of alcohol to acetic acid require oxygen in order to thrive and to do their work, and the cider must therefore come in contact with the atmosphere. Since only the sur- face of the cider in a barrel comes in contact with the air it is only upon the surface that the acetic ferment works. For this reason the old system of allow- ing the cider to stand in barrels until it becomes vinegar requires a period of many months, usually about two years. The modern vinegar maker hastens matters by passing his cider through a "generator." A "generator" is a tall tank having a perforated false bottom some eight to ten inches from the real bottom, and a false head a few inches from the top of the staves. The space between the false bottom and the false head is filled with rattan or beachwood shavings, or some other suitable material. Just above the false head the cider is fed into a little trough, which automatically dumps and spreads the cider over the perforated head. This allows it to trickle down through the shavings, thus exposing every drop to the air. In this way the same process which requires two years in the barrels is accomplished in a single day. However, for the average orchard man the old barrel process is still prob- ably the most practical. Even this pro- cess may be very much shortened by a proper manipulation of the cider in the barrels. It may be racked off into new barrels frequently and in that way thor- oughly stirred and exposed to the oxygen of the atmosphere. The ideal temperature for the acetic ferment is about 86 degrees Fahrenheit. That is the bacteria is most active at this temperature and becomes less active as it varies either way from this. At 104 degrees Fahrenheit their action ceases entirely. Upon completion of the vinegar process the vinegar maker takes every precaution to check further chemical change or de- composition. He puts the finished product in pure, clean, barrels carefully guarding against the presence of vinegar eels or other foreign matter. The barrels are then tightly bunged and his product is ready for the market. P. S. Darlington, District Horticultnral Inspector. Cabbages The parent from which the variety of cabbages in common use has sprung is supposed to be the wild sea cabbage (Brassica oleracea), a plant found near the seacoast of various parts of England and continental Europe. The cultivated varieties vary greatly from the original type, but present striking similarities amongst themselves. There are some points however, in which the wild and the cultivated are nearly alike and these are in the flower seed pod and seed. Cabbages contain a very small per cent of nitrogenous compounds as compared with most articles of food. An analysis when cooked will show that they gener- ally contain chemical constituents as fol- lows: Water, 97.4 per cent; fat, 0.1 per cent; carbohydrate, 0.4 per cent; mineral matter, 0.1 per cent; nitrogenous matter, 0.6 per cent; cellulose, 1.3 per cent. They are said to possess anti-scorbutic proper- ties. Apart from that, the analysis shows that they have very little food value. The Soil Cabbages require a deep rich soil, where they can be made to grow rapidly CABBAGES 671 and be crisp and tender. Almost any good soil that will grow corn, vegetables and other crops successfully will grow cabbages; but with some vegetables it is possible to get the soil too rich while with cabbages there is little danger. The Pacific Northwest is well adapted to the growing of cabbages, and in the low lands of the eastern side of the Cascade moun- tains, where irrigation is practiced and the alkali is strong, excellent cabbages can be grown on land too strong in alkali for fruit trees. However, it must not be supposed that all alkali soils would be good for cabbages; for we have seen the alkali so strong that nothing would grow. We only wish to suggest that land some- times considered waste, because it will not successfully grow fruit trees or hay, may be utilized for cabbages. For an early crop the seed should be sown in hotbeds, early in the spring, and the plants set in rows in the field or garden as soon as the danger of frost is over. The plants are not tender, and will stand considerable cold, so that it is not necessary to exercise the same care as in case of beans, tomatoes, or some other garden plants. For a late crop the seed may be planted in the open, and the plants set almost any time during the summer. It is not uncommon, in the milder climates, to set the plants as late as September, and allow them to stand in the field as late as December. This method is practiced by many growers, in order to avoid the pests that are much more destructive during the summer than in the autumn. Setting the Plants The plants should be set in rows, about three feet apart, so that it is easy to cul- Pig. 1. The Plant on the Left Is Set Too Shallow. The stem is exposed to the sun and freezes. The plant on the right is set the proper depth in the soil. tivate between them. Some practice the method of cross cultivation, in which case the plants have to be set in squares about three feet each way, and the rows both longitudinal and transverse. Plants should be set in the evening, and the ground about them well watered, so as to keep the roots wet and the plant sappy during the next day, until the little ten- der root hairs begin their work of supply. If plants are not set during the evening, then they should be covered with a leaf, or paper, or something to protect them from the sun. The stem of the plant should be set deeply enough so that the leaves are within an inch or so from the surface of the ground. It is better to set the stem in the earth up to the leaves than to leave too much of it exposed, as is often done. Varieties Recommended for the Inland Empire section of Oregon, Washington and Idaho. Extra Early Express (Burpee), Early Jersey Wakefield (Burpee), Early Winig- stadt (Burpee), Surehead (Burpee), American Drumhead Savoy (Henderson). On the question of varieties for the South we quote from C. C. Newman, South Carolina Agricultural College. "Contrary to the general opinion, the early maturing varieties are better suited for winter use in the South than the late varieties. If the late varieties are plant- ed at the usual time in the spring, they will mature before fall, and if planted in late summer, they will not mature until midwinter, and are liable to be seriously injured before they are ready to be har- vested. In the mountain section where the summers are not too severe, the late varieties, set out in May and June, mature during the months of October and No- vember. "We have tested practically all the varieties of cabbages in our trial grounds for the last five years, and the Charleston Wakefield, Early Summer Succession, and Late Flat Dutch, have given best results for fall and winter use, when planted to the field the first week in August. There are, of course, a large number of varieties that will produce fine fall cabbages, but 672 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE the three mentioned seem to be about the best for this section of the country. The two first named varieties will mature during October and November, and the Succession will form large solid heads by the middle of December. The late Drum- head Savoy will probably endure more cold after heading than any of the smooth leafed varieties, and is, therefore, very desirable for a very late winter cabbage. It is highly recommended for home use and for local markets. Late Flat Dutch is an excellent variety to follow Succes- sion. Cabbage here will endure a temp- erature of 26 degrees without injury. "Cabbage seed sown in an unprotected bed about October 1st will produce nice, stocky plants for transplanting to the field in early spring. Seed sown at this time will make short, stocky plants, which will head from May to July, according to the earliness of the variety. Seed sown in the open ground about the first of September will usually make too much growth before cold weather, and are liable to run to seed when transplanted in the spring, without forming heads. Seed sown in protected frames early in January will be ready for transplanting to the field early in March. Before trans- planting, these plants should be gradually hardened off by exposing them to the cool weather and allowing the bed to become moderately dry. Cabbage plants set to the field in October will not be injured to any great extent, even during the coldest weather. The plants will make consid- erable growth during October and Novem- ber, but from the last of December to the last of February little growth will take place. After the first of March the plants begin to grow more rapidly, and by the first of April they will begin to form heads. When the plants are set out too early in the fall, they will form small heads by the middle of December, and a large per cent of the plants will run to seed in the spring, without forming mar- ketable heads. "The following table gives some idea as to what might be expected from an acre of fall cabbages: Tear 1908 ^ Per cent. Variety Seed Planted Plants set to field Per cent. of plants died When matured Average Weight of plants that headed Yield per acre Charleston Wakefield June 3d Aug. 15 5% Nov. 1 to Dec. 5 3 lbs. 95% 12,630 lbs. Henderson's Success'n June 3d Aug. 15 6% Nov. 10 to Jan. 1 6M lbs. 92% 23,490 lbs. Late Flat Dutch June 3d Aug. 15 8% Nov. 25 to Jan. 15 6 lbs. 85% 18,480 lbs. "The soil on which these cabbages were grown would produce about 40 bushels corn per acre. "Ten two-horse loads of stable manure was applied broadcast per acre, and the soil was then plowed eight inches deep with a two-horse turn plow. One thou- sand pounds of fertilizer, analyzing eight per cent phosphorous acid, four per cent nitrogen, and seven per cent potash, was then applied broadcast, and mixed with the soil with an Acme harrow." Harvesting the Crop When mature, if cabbages are grown for the markets, they are generally pulled, some of the outer leaves taken off, the stems cut off, and they are then crated for shipment. If they are grown for home use, they are treated in like man- ner and stored in a cool place, the nearer to the freezing point the better. Some- times the farmer pulls his cabbage late in the autumn or early in the winter, and places them in trenches with the stems CABBAGES— CABBAGE DISEASES 673 Fig. Two Heads of Succession Cabbage Cut From the Field After Havinj Temperature of 20 Degrees. Withstood a upward, throwing a little dirt over them and taking them out as they are needed for use. When the winters are mild, we have known cabbages left in the field all winter to be in fairly good condition the following spring. Granville Lowther Wide Variation in Price of Cabbage Of the 40 different agricultural prod- ucts, the prices of which are obtained monthly by the department of agriculture, cabbage varies most widely in price. For the entire United States the average price paid to producers on January 15 was about $1.26 per 100 pounds. This aver- age is based upon reports of correspond- ents from 778 towns, representing every state of the Union. The lowest average for any state is 24 cents per 100 pounds for New York. The highest average is $3.33 per 100 pounds for Alabama. The average of 24 cents per 100 pounds in New York is based upon reports from 23 towns, eight of which returned 15 cents per 100 as the average; no quotation was above 50 cents per 100 pounds. In the adjoining state, Pennsylvania, the aver- age price was about $1.60 per 100 pounds, not one of the 23 reports received being under $1 per 100 pounds. Here is an average difference of $1.36 per 100 pounds in the average price paid to producers of cabbage in two adjoining states. Crop Reporter, January 1, 1913. Cabbage Methods of Propagation in Alaska. See Alaska. For Propagation in the Gulf States see Alabama. CABBAGE DISEASES Black Leg or Plioma Wilt Phoma oleracea F. D. Bailey This is a serious disease of cabbage and cauliflower. Though it has only re- cently been reported in the United States, it has already become widely distributed. In Ohio many fields have been seriously damaged, in some, indeed, the disease was so severe that no marketable cabbage were cut. It is supposed that this dis- ease was introduced from Europe where it has caused severe losses, especially in France, Germany and Holland. It has been known in Australia for a number of years and is thought to be the most seri- ous disease affecting cauliflower and cab- bage in that country. This disease has been found in Oregon, during the season of 1912, in Jackson and Wallowa counties. In the latter, where it probably appeared the previous year, it is already causing alarm. It is very probable that the fun- gus may be introduced on seed, and it is interesting and possibly significant to note that the Wallowa grower purchased his seed from Illinois the year he first observed the disease. 2—2 674 ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Symptoms The most characteristic symptom of this disease is the blackening and decay of the stem close to the surface of the ground. (Fig. 1.) Cankered areas are produced which sometimes completely girdle the stem and the plant is often broken over by the wind. The outer leaves of affected plants are bluish red in color, a characteristic which remains until the plant dies. Plants may be at- tacked at any time in their growth, more often, however, when they are about one- half grown. Other symptoms are spots on stem and leaves, in which numerous very small black specks can be seen. A wilting, in which the leaves droop instead of falling off, is frequently observed in diseased plants. Cause The fungus which causes black leg of cabbage and cauliflower is known techni- Fig. 1. Black Leg of Cabbage. The stem is often girdled near the surface of the ground. cally as Phoma oleracea. It enters the plant at some place near the surface of the ground, probably in wounds made by insects. Leaf infection may also take place. From these infected spots the fungus spreads, killing the plant tissues and shutting off the food supply from other parts. It comes to the surface to form the pycnidia or small black specks in which great numbers of minute spores are produced. These spores are forced to the surface and are carried by wind, water, insects or other agencies, to start new infection. Many seedlings are in- fected at planting time. If an occasional diseased seedling is handled, spores will be transmitted to the hands and later to healthy plants. The disease is frequently found closely associated with the wounds and injuries of insects, though infection may take place without aid from this source. Treatment The black leg organism is doubtless car- ried over in the stems and leaves of old decaying plants. It is a fungus capable of living in the soil, but one that can be controlled if the proper measures are con- stantly employed. The greatest care should be taken to keep the seed bed free from it, thus making certain that it does not become distributed over the fields. The recommendation is made in Ohio that the seed beds be sprinkled with 4-4-50 Bordeaux at the time of planting, using one gallon of the mixture to each 10 square feet. This operation should be re- peated two weeks before transplanting and again just before transplanting. This method has proven effective in holding the disease in check. It is better to select clean ground for the seed bed each year and disinfect the seed to be used. A safe treatment for cabbage and cauliflower seed is to use a solution of formalin, one- fourth pint in seven gallons of water, allow them to soak for 15 minutes, rinse in clean water and spread out to dry. When the disease appears in the field the affected plants should be removed and burned. The truck growers of the Northwest maj^ well be on the lookout for this dis- CABBAGE DISEASES 675 ease. It must be dealt with intelligently from the first, for, once established, the disease is a difficult one to control. Brown or Black Rot Bacterium campestre (Pam) Erw. Sm. Is a serious disease of these two cruci- fers, and attacks others of the family, including turnips. It is a veritable scourge to the cabbage growers of Ohio and other states. Smith (Farmers' Bui. 68, U. S. D. A.) has published concerning it and has attributed the disease to a specific germ. The diseased heads may be dwarfed, in portions rotted, and brown colors will appear in the woody layers of the plant, including the stem. Badly dis- eased heads emit a penetrating and offens- ive odor. The losses from the brown rot have been very large and specific reme- dies cannot be stated. The author quoted sums up the subject of treatment in one word — prevention. The measures recom- mended are — plant on new land and only from healthy seed beds; avoid succession of the same crops; avoid stable manure and give preference to artificial fertilizers to escape possible infection through the manure. Prevent animals from cropping in diseased fields. Clean tools by scour- ing bright after use in infected soil. Fight the cabbage insects, since these inoculate healthy plants with the disease. Removal of badly affected plants, or newly infected leaves, at intervals, and subsequent burn- ing or deep pitting of this refuse may aid in checking brown rot. Destroy all mustard weeds. The water pores of the cabbage are large, as is evidenced by the great amount of water which collects on the outside of the leaves under certain conditions, which makes the cabbage quite suscept- ible to this form of disease. A. D. Selby, Wooster, Ohio. Club Root Plasmodiophora brassicae F. D. Bailey This is a destructive root disease of crucifers attacking, among the cultivated crops, the cabbage, cauliflower, turnip, etc. It is caused by a very minute or- ganism belonging to the group Myxo- mycetes, commonly referred to as the slime moulds. The technical name of the organism causing this disease is Plasmo- diophora brassicae. This disease occurs in various sections of the Northwest, but cannot be considered to be a very common trouble. The knotty swellings or club- shaped enlargements (Pig. 1) resulting Ortftxi? ittt. Fis. 1. Cabbase Plant Affected With Club Root. from the invasion of roots by this fungus prevent the normal growth * of head or root and gradually kill the plant. When once established in the soil, the fungus will live for several years. Cer- tain weeds, shepherd's purse and hedge mustard, are good hosts and doubtless furnish opportunity for the disease to perpetuate itself and to spread. Control Care must be taken to keep the seed beds clean. Destroy all refuse from dis- eased plants. Do not allow such material to get into the compost heap. Practice rotation with crops not included in this group of plants, and keep the weeds down. 676 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Fig. 2. Club Root on Turnip. Experiments have shown that an appli- cation of lime at the rate of about 100 bushels per acre when the land is plowed in the spring is a reliable method of con- trol. Damping Off Caused by soil fungi of several varie- ties. The young plants slough off at the ground. The trouble occurs when they are crowded or conditions are too moist. Surface soil should be given a chance to dry. Mainly a seed bed trouble. Downy Mildew, Leaf Blight and White Rust Occur upon plants of the mustard family, including the cabbage. If treatment seems necessary use Bor- deaux mixture. Fnsarinm Wilt This trouble has become very destruc- tive in the cabbage growing sections of the Eastern states and bids fair to rank with black rot in importance. It causes a yellowing and wilting of the plants. The only remedy suggested is the breed- ing of resistant stocks. Boot Bot, Stem Bot, Bhizoctonia Due to the same fungus which attacks the potato. It would seem that general sanitary measures and rotation is the only practicable remedy. Bibliography for Cabbage Diseases and Diseases of Cmcifers Generally 1898. "Vermont Experiment Station Bulletin No. 66. 1911. Virginia Polytechnic Institute Bulletin No. 191. 1911. Ohio Experiment Station Bulle- tin No. 228. 1912. United States Department of Agriculture Farmers' Bulletin No. 488. Literature on Diseases of Cole Crops Bulletins and Beports The following literature was complied by the Cornell station in Bulletin No. 292.— Ed. Soft Bot, or Stump Bot Bacillus carotovorus Jones 1901 — A soft rot of carrot and other vegetables. — L. R. Jones (Vt. Rpt. 13 [1900], pp. 299-332, figs. 10). 1904 — A bacterial disease of the cauli- flower and allied plants. — F. C. Harrison (Ont. Agr. Sta. Bui. 137, pp. 1-28, figs. 18). 1909 — The bacterial soft rots of certain vegetables. I. — H. A. Harding, W. J. Morse and L. R. Jones (N. Y. State Tech. Bui. 11, pp. 251-368, figs. 10). Black Bot Pseudomonas campestris, Pammel, Erw. Smith 1890 — A bacterial disease of cabbage. — H. Garman (Ky. Rpt. 3, pp. 43-46). 1898 — A bacterial rot of cabbage and allied plants. — H. L. Russell (Wis. Bui. 65, p. 39, figs. 12). 1898 — A bacterial disease of cabbage and allied plants. — H. L. Russell (U. S. D. A. Office Exp. Stas., Bui. 49, pp. 86-89). 1898 — Black rot of the cabbage. — E. F. Smith (U. S. D. A. Farmers' Bui. 68, p. 22). 1904 — Combating the black rot of cab- bage by the removal of affected leaves. — F. C. Stewart and H. A. Harding (N. Y. State Bui. 232, pp. 43-65, pis. 2). 1904 — Vitality of the cabbage black rot germ on cabbage seed. — H. A. Harding, P. C. Stewart and M. J. Prucha (N. Y. State Bui. 251, pp. 177-194). CABBAGE DISEASES— CABBAGE PESTS 677 1905 — Some bacterial diseases of plants prevalent in Michigan. — W. G. Sackett (Mich. Bui. 230, pp. 213-216, figs. 2). 1909 — Some bacterial diseases of plants. — W. G. Sackett (Colo. Bui. 138, pp. IS- IS). Club Root Plasmodiophora brassicae Wor. 1893 — Club root of cabbage and its al- lies.—B. D. Halsted (N. J. Bui. 98, p. 16, figs. 13). 1893 — Injurious insects and diseases of plants, with remedial measures. — W. B. Alwood (Va. Bui. 24, p. 12). 1896 — Prevention of cabbage club root. — F. C. Stewart (N. Y. State Rpt. 1895, pp. 525-529). 1898 — Susceptibility of varieties of tur- nips to club root; experiments with cab- bages, etc.— B. D. Halsted (N. J. Rpt. 1897, pp. 270-276, fig. 1). 1898 — Club root and black rot. — L. R. Jones (Vt. Bui. 66, pp. 3-12, figs. 5). 1907 — Some important plant diseases of Washington. — W. H. Lawrence (Wash. Bui. 83, pp. 6-9, fig. 1). Root Rot or Stem Rot Corticium vagiim B. & C. var. Solani Burt. {Rhizocto7iia) 1899 — Three important fungous dis- eases of the sugar beet. — B. M. Duggar (N. Y. Cornell Bui. 163, pp. 339-352, 361, pis. 3. figs. 5). 1900 — The rotting of greenhouse let- tuce.— G. E. Stone and R. E. Smith (Mass. Bui. 69, pp. 16, 17, 39, figs. 3). 1901 — The sterile fungus Rhizoctonia. — B. M. Duggar and F. C. Stewart (N. Y. Cornell Bui. 186, pp. 27, figs. 9). [Ibid., N. Y. State Bui. 186.] 1904— Potato failures.— F. M. Rolfs (Colo. Bui. 91, pp. 33). 1905— Rhizoctonia (Rosette). — G. P. Clinton (Conn. Rpt. 1904, pp. 325-326, pi. 1, figs. 3). Downy Mildew of Cnicifers Peronospora parasitica (Pers.) DeBary 1891— Cabbage.— B. D. Halsted (N. J. Rpt. 1890, p. 349). White "Rnsf of Cmcifers Cystopus Candidas (Pers.) Lev. 1901 — The white mould of radish. — B. D. Halsted (N. J. Rpt. 1900, pp. 462, 463, pl. 1). Bulletins covering generally the treat- ment of cabbage diseases: 1904 — Cabbage diseases and insects. — J. B. S. Norton and T. B. Symons (Md. Circ. Bui. 58, pp. 10, figs. 6). 1909 — The control of malnutrition dis- eases of truck crops. — L. L. Harter (Va. Truck Sta. Bui. 1, pp. 4-16, figs. 4). 1910 — Diseases of garden crops and their control. — N. J. Giddings (W. Va. Bui. 123, pp. 18, pis. 5). 1910 — A brief handbook of the diseases of cultivated plants in Ohio. — A. D. Selby (Ohio Bui. 214, pp. 307-456-f vii, figs. 106). 1911 — California plant diseases. — R. E. Smith and E. H. Smith (Cal. Exp. Sta. Bui. 218). CABBAGE PESTS Cabbage Aphis. See Aphids; also Cab- bage Louse, this section. Cabbage Curcnlio Ceutorhynchus rapae. Gyle. Feeds upon the edge of the leaf. Not serious as yet and not in the Northwest so far as known. Cabbage Hair Worm Mermis albicans Deising Looks like a piece of basting thread. White in color, coiled or coiling and un- coiling or crawling on cabbage heads. From two to nine inches long. Exaggerated reports of poisonings from the presence of this worm came from the South some years ago. The worm is entirely harmless. Reference Bu. Ento. Circ. No. 62, Revised. Cabbage Louse Aphis brassicae Linn. General Appearance Dark greenish yellow to brownish, with dark transverse bands across the abdo- mens of some individuals. All covered with a fine white powder, which gives them a silvery or frosted appearance. Life History The lice appear with the first plants in the spring and increase with such rapid- ity as to soon almost entirely cover the host. This condition prevails throughout the early summer, after which the para- sites begin to reduce their numbers. It is a disgusting pest on cabbage, cauli- flower and brussels sprouts. Food Plants All members of the Cruciferae includ- ing cabbage, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, mustard, radish, etc. 678 ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Natural Enemies The ladybird beetles, Hippodamia con- vergens, Megilla maculata and Coccinella californica, prey to some extent upon this pest. The real check, however, Is the in- ternal parasite, Diaeretus californieus Baker. E. O. EssiG Cabbage and Radish Maggot PhorMa brassicae Bauche A. L. LOVETT This insect is considered a very serious pest throughout the Pacific Northwest, or wherever cabbages and radishes are grown. In the truck crop regions, where these crops are grown over considerable areas and for a period of years on the same soil, the pest is especially serious. Plants Attacked Besides attacking the cabbage and rad- ish, this maggot feeds on the turnip, caul- iflower, celery, rape, kale, and a variety of the closely allied Cruciferiae. It is also found about the roots of some of the wild plants of this group, including mus- tard and radish. Description The Larva. — It is as a larva that the cabbage maggot is injurious and hence best known to the grower. At this stage it is a footless grub or maggot (see Fig. 1), waxy white or yellowish in color. The Fig. 1. The Cabbage Maggot {PhorMa iras- sicae), a, adult fly; b, got; c, puparium ; d, the egg (much enlarged). (Original.) body is cylindrical, ending bluntly be- hind and tapering to a point at the ce- phalic end. When mature, it measures about .32 of an inch in length. The Pupa. — The pupal or resting stage of the cabbage maggot is passed in the soil about the roots of the infested plant. Exceptions to this rule occur in the forms which assume the aerial habit and in the few which pupate in their burrows in the root. The pupa consists of a small brown case or puparium some two-tenths of an inch in length, elliptical-ovate in form and without the ability to move. The Adult. — The adult insect varies considerably from the maggot that de- stroys the plant. It is a fly which ap- pears to the ordinary observer not unlike the common house fly. It is con- siderably smaller in size, however, and when at rest the wings extend a greater distance back of the abdomen and overlap tnore. The Egg is really very small, measur- ing only .04 of an inch in length. It is white, however, and by the keen observer may be readily seen lying on the soil close to the stem of the host plant. Life History This insect passes the winter as larvae and pupae in and about the roots of their hosts. Possibly some of them pass the Fig. 2. The Cabbage Ma Root of wild mustard showing larvae, pupae and injury. CABBAGE PESTS 679 Fig. 3. The Cabbage Maggot. Radish showing egg. winter also as adult flies, hibernating in sheltered nooks about the field and in outbuildings. As the warm days of spring advance, the flies emerge from their hibernating quarters and also from the pupal cases in the soil, and seek their host plants for the purpose of egg deposi- tion. The eggs are deposited close about the plant, the female fly working herself down below the surface, if the soil will permit, and placing the egg right against the plant root (see Fig. 3), The eggs are often placed above ground on leaves or developing buds. The eggs hatch in from four to ten days, depending on the tem- perature, and the young larvae commence at once to burrow into the tender plant (see Fig. 2). The maggots reach matur- ity in a month to six weeks, pupate and emerge soon after as adult flies. From this time on until late fall one may usu- ally find both larvae and pupae in the soil. As the season advances, a portion of the maggots assume an aerial habit. This is especially true in the fields when early cabbage has been harvested and where the stumps left standing have put out adventitious buds. The flies deposit eggs in these tender buds and the mag- gots burrow into the midribs of the leaves and into the core of the shoots. Control Measures Possibly for no other group of insects will one find such a variety of remedial measures suggested as for the root mag- gots, nor more diverse results following their application. No single remedial measure will ordinarily afford satisfac- tory relief. Combinations of preventive and remedial measures are best. A single application of any solution will seldom suffice; hence the crop should be treated again when the effect of the previous treatment is diminished. Preventives Plowing of the infested fields as soon as the crop is removed will materially lessen next year's brood. The soil should be turned to a depth of four inches or more. Destruction of Stumps. — The old stumps in the field or the refuse root crop in the soil should be destroyed. Such materials furnish ideal conditions for the develop- ment of this pest. Rotation of Crops. — Where conditions will permit, rotate the crops so that plants of the family Cruciferae occupy the same soil but a single season. The flies are weak fliers and do not as a usual thing travel far to their hosts. Screening Seed Beds. — Cabbage plants yet in the seed beds are often infested with this pest, and the maggots are car- ried with the plants when they are trans- ferred to the field. Mr. Schoene* has studied the value of screening cabbage seed beds and the following discussion is based on his bulletin on this subject. For early settings of cabbage, where the product usually brings a fancy price on Fig. 4. Cabbage Maggot Adult. — Photo by Essig. * Schoene, W. .T., New Yoric Agricultural Ex- periment Station, 1911, Bulletin 334. 680 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE the market, screening the seed beds pays very well and appears practical, in fact, whenever the crop is valuable. From the fragmentary data at hand, it appears that the period of the seedling growth checks up very closely with the time when the early emerging adults of the cabbage maggot commence their egg deposition. The usual method is to construct about the bed a frame of six to ten-inch boards placed on edge, well supported and braced, and with cross wires extending over the top to hold up the cloth. Over this frame is stretched cheesecloth, pref- erably a grade of about 20 threads to the inch. These frames may be used for sev- eral years. The following facts are es- tablished concerning their use for cab- bage seed beds. 1. If the cheesecloth is carefully at- tached and the frame is tight, injuries by the maggot may be entirely prevented. 2. The work of the flea beetles can be prevented partially or wholly, depending on the grade of cheesecloth employed. 3. The screen conserves the moisture and prevents baking of the soil between seeding time and that period when plants may be cultivated. 4. Plants raised under cloth grow faster during moist seasons and attain the size desirable for transplanting about ten days or two weeks sooner than plants grown in the open. 5. The extra cost of screening plants ranges from six to 20 cents per 1,000. In the opinion of many this cost is met in the first saving of seed. 6. The screened plants are more ten- der than those not screened, but if the cover is removed a week before trans- planting the seedlings will become suffi- ciently hardened. The seed bed should, by all means be located on a fertile, well drained soil where there can be no accumulation of water or washing under the frames by rain. As it is considerable work to re- move the frame to cultivate, see to it that the soil is in good condition and free from weed seed. Hand Picking. — While a laborious un- dertaking, is often employed on small fields of cabbage. The plants are simply pulled up, the roots examined carefully for eggs or maggots, and the plant reset. This practice may often be employed to advantage when seedlings are transferred to the field. This method is not practical for radishes or turnips. The Tarred Felt Discs. — The tarred felt discs are used for the protection of cab- bage and caulifiower only, the idea here being to prevent the adult female fiy from depositing eggs. No better description of the discs or their use can be given than is found in the original description by W. H. Goff, who perfected this treatment in 1898. The description is transcribed from Circular 63 of the Bureau of En- tomology. The cards are cut in a hexagonal form in order to better economize the material and a thinner grade of tarred paper than the ordinary roofing felt is used, as it is not only cheaper, but being more flexible, the cards made from it are more readily placed about the plant without being torn. The blade of the tool, which should be made by an expert blacksmith, is formed from a band of steel, bent in the form of a half hexagon, and then taking an acute angle, reaches nearly to the center. The part making the star-shaped cut is formed from a separate piece of steel, so attached to the handle as to make a close joint with the blade. The latter is beveled from the outside all around, so that by remov- ing the part making the star-shaped cut, the edge may be ground on a grindstone. It is important that the angles in the blade be made perfect, and that its out- line represents an exact half hexagon. To use the tool, place the tarred paper on the end of a section of a log or piece of timber and first cut the lower edge into notches, using only one angle of the tool. Then commence at the left side, and place the blade as indicated by the dotted lines, and strike at the end of the handle with a light mallet and a complete card is made. Continue in this manner across the paper. The first cut of every alternate course will make an imperfect card, and the last cut in any course may be imper- fect, but the other cuts will make perfect cards if the tool is correctly made and properly used. The cards should be placed about the plants at the time of transplanting. To place the card bend it slightly to open the slit, then slip it on the center, the stem entering the slit, after which spread the card out flat and press the points CABBAGE PESTS 681 -til Fig. 5. Tarred Paper Disc formed by the star-shaped cut snugly around the stem. A Wisconsin grower protected 7,000 plants and secured a splendid crop, while unprotected plants nearby would have been a complete failure if the maggots had not been picked off by hand. Others have reported similar success. One re- ported having lost only 25 plants out of 10,000 to 15,000 that he protected with the cards, where ordinarily he should have lost from 75 to 90 per cent of the crop. This method in actual practice has proved to be cheap, practical and efficient. Its success depends on the timely and proper application of the cards. They should be applied as soon after trans- planting as convenient and must be pressed down firmly about the plant, leav- ing no open spaces. Soil should not be allowed to collect on top of the disc. Remedial In reviewing the current economic literature as well as in local practice, as revealed by our correspondence, I find the results attending the use of the materials for the control of this pest are as varied as the materials themselves. That many and Tool for Cutting. of the treatments recommended are im- practical is certain. Of those remaining none now in current use seem to give uniform satisfaction under all conditions. The Carholic Acid Emulsion. — While giving negative results in our trials, had earlier in the season been suggested to growers, who in several cases commented upon its use most favorably. It is possi- ble the solution was too strong; certainly more trials are necessary to prove the status of this remedy for our conditions. It is prepared as follows: Crude carbolic acid 1 pint Hard soap 1 pound Water 1 gallon Dissolve the soap in the boiling water; remove from the fire and add the carbolic acid. Agitate briskly for some time to form a perfect emulsion. For applica- tion use one part of the emulsion to 30 parts of water. In using this solution draw back the soil from about the plant, exposing as much root surface as practical. Apply about half pint of the material to each 682 ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE plant. If a pump is used and the solu- tion applied with considerable force, it will require less material and do more good than when simply poured about the plant. This solution should be applied to the plants as soon as they are well established in the field and the applica- tion repeated about every eight or ten days. Kerosene and Sand. — This mixture is made by adding one pint of kerosene to a bucketful of sand, mixing thoroughly. A handful of this substance is placed about each plant as soon as it is well established. Powdered Tobacco. — This material should be placed about the plant as soon as it is set and the application renewed every week. Bran and Olue. — This mixture consists of two pounds of glue dissolved in a gal- lon of water and the addition of suffi- cient bran to make a thin slop. A hand- ful of this is then placed about each plant. This material, in certain cases, has given very satisfactory results. Hellebore Decoction. — This solution is prepared by steeping two ounces of pow- dered hellebore in a quart of water for one-half hour. Dilute to make one gallon of solution. Apply in the same manner as the carbolic acid emulsion solution. Literature 1894— Slingerland, M. V. (Cornell Uni. Exp. Sta. Bull. 78.) 1906— Chittenden, F. H. (U. S. Dept. Agri., Bur. Ent. Cir. 63.) 1906 — Washburn, P. L. (Minn. Agri. Exp. Sta. Bull. 100.) 1907 — Smith, J. B., and Dickerson, E. L. (N. J. Exp. Agri. Sta. Bull. 200.) 1908— Schoene, W. J. (N. Y. Agri. Exp. Sta. Bull. 301.) 1909— Smith, J. B. (N. J. Agri. Exp. Sta. Ann. Rept, 1909.) 1911— Schoene, W. J. (N. Y. Agri. Exp. Sta. Bull. 334.) 1911— Schoene, W. J. (Jour. Eco. Ent. IV, 2, p. 210.) Common Cabbage Looper AutograpTia brassicae The larva is a green worm, lined with white about one and a quarter inch long when grown. Has the looping habit like the span worm. Eats the leaves full of holes. Spraying with salt water is useful. Treat same as for imported cabbage worm. Cross-Striped Cabbage Worm Pionea rimosalis Guen The moth is pale yellow in color and lays its eggs in masses of 20-40 on the under side of leaves, the eggs overlapping each other like fish scales. The young larva is gray in color with a large head. When full grown it is bluish gray with conspicuous black stripes crosswise of the body. Distributed from the South Atlantic states westward to Nebraska. The worms do considerable damage at times. Poison bran mash is a stand- ard remedy. Mix bran with water and sugar before adding the Paris green. Three ounces of sugar to enough bran to make a mixture that will run through the fingers when mixed in a gallon of water. Cooperation in clean farming is a good preventive. Gather and destroy all re- fuse from the cabbage fields. Cutworms Noctuidae A. L. LOVETT Cutworms are a very serious pest of nearly all our crops. Ornamental shrubs, garden and truck crops, field crops and even small fruits and orchards suffer from the attack of these pests. The sleek, well fed, greasy caterpillars, varying in size, when mature, from one to two inches, are too well known to require a description. The adult moths are noc- turnal in habit, flying mostly at night. Pig. 1. Glassv Cutworm Adult and Larva. (Exp.' Farms Repts. 1910.) CABBAGE PESTS 683 The majority of the medium sized, smoky grey and brownish moths, which are at- tracted to the lights, are adults of the cutworm caterpillars. Kemedies The poison bran mash, consisting of bran 16 pounds, Paris green one pound, salt one-half pound, cheap syrup one gal- lon, and warm water to make a coarse mash, is the standard remedy for cut- worms. This may be placed on a field prepared for a crop or may be placed about the base of the plants when they appear. Poultry should not be allowed free range over a treated field. Green succulent forage of any kind may be sprayed with an arsenical, mowed and placed in small heaps about the field, pre- ferably in the evening. Where these meth- ods are impracticable, arsenical sprays applied to the host are of some assist- ance. For young plants just set in the field, as cabbage and tomato, a mechani- cal barrier consisting of a cylinder of tin or cardboard may be shoved down about the plant. For the climbing cutworms, which at- tack the developing buds of our fruit trees in early spring, the poison baits are very good; but better still, is a belt of some sticky material about the trunk of the tree, or some mechanical device such as a piece of cardboard attached funnel shaped, tight at the top and flared be- low. Cotton batten may be used in a similar manner. Wrap a strip eight inches wide about the tree overlapping it at the edges where it meets. Tie this band at the lower edge, then, taking hold of the upper edge, roll it down over the bottom edge. This makes a very ef- fective funnel. Diamond-Back Moth Plutella maculipennis The larva is a very small green worm. The moth is about one-third inch long and folds its wings roof-like over its body. A white line borders the inside of each fore wing and these coa- lesce to form a single white stripe down the back with diamond-shaped expan- sions at intervals when the wings are folded. Larvae usually feed on lower surface of leaves and not until quite numerous do they eat holes clear through. Treat the same as for imported cabbage worm. A. D. Selby Dipterous Leaf Miners There are several species, notably the imported turnip leaf miner, native cab- bage leaf miner, imported cabbage leaf miner, native clover leaf miner. They are minute flies which lay their eggs in the cabbage and other plant leaves, the young larvae ruining the leaf. Not very injurious and no practical remedy is known. Flea Beetles Several Species Minute beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed. They eat small holes in the leaves of the plant, or if numerous, destroy whole sections of the leaf. Spray with Bordeaux mixture. Harlequin Cabbage Bug Murgantia histrionica Hahn Family Pentatomidae General Appearance The adult bugs are black with bright red markings. They are one half inch long and two-thirds as wide. The eggs are almost imitations of miniature white barrels with black hoops and black spots in the proper places for bungholes. They are arranged in clusters side by side. The young greatly resemble the adults, but lack wings and yellow predominates. This color gradually changes to orange and red as the nymphs reach maturity. Life History The adults hibernate in various shelter- ed places over winter and appear with the first warm weather in the spring to feed. The first plants to furnish food are wild mustard, radish and other mem- bers of the cruciferous weeds. Upon these also the eggs are laid and the young soon appear in great numbers in time to migrate to the cabbage plants and work upon them throughout the summer. Successive broods may appear in the 684 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Fig. 1. The Cabbage Bug, Murpantia histrionica (Hahn.). c, d and e, eggs ; adults at right. a and b, young ; — After Rileu cabbage fields and the numbers so in- crease as to cause much, damage. In the southern part of the state the adults continue active throughout the winter. Food Plants This bug is especially fond of all cruciferous plants, including mustard, radish, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips, rape, horseradish, etc. Other food plants are potatoes, eggplant, okra, beans, beets, roses, sunflowers, chrysanthemums, squash, ragweed, pigweed, wild lettuce, lambsquarters and most of the plants be- longing to the caper family. Occasion- ally nursery trees, citrus, locust, cherry, and plum are injured, and the fruit of the grape and corn ears also suffer. Control Methods recommended for the squash bug are also applicable to the control of the cabbage bug. Planting an early crop of cabbage, rape, mustard or radish is especially recommended. The eggs are laid in great numbers upon these plants and together with the adults may be de- stroyed. This practice greatly lessens subsequent attacks. See under Squash. Natural Enemies Great numbers of the eggs are destroy- ed by two small internal parasites, Tri- ssolcns murgantiae Ashm. and Ooencyrtus johnsoni How. The wheel bug, Arilus cristatus Linn., feeds upon the young nymphs in the Eastern states. E. O. EssiG Hop Flea Beetle Psylliodes punctulata Melsh Family Chrysomelidae General Appearance A very small, black metallic beetle with greenish tinge; oval in form; one tenth of an inch long and half as wide. The eggs are very small, oval in shape and yellow. The larvae are small white grubs about 5 mm. long. The white pupae as well as the larvae are found in the soil. Life History The adults appear early in the spring and are ready to attack the first hop plants as soon as they come through the ground. They feed upon the upper sur- faces of the leaves, completely skeletoniz- ing them. The vines are attacked when young and are often completely destroy- ed before they have reached a height of three or four feet. When disturbed the beetles hop or fall to the ground. They are able to make their way through the soil without much difficulty and lay their eggs upon the roots of the food plants. The larvae are very small and white in color with dusky markings. They live in the ground feeding upon the roots of various plants. When full grown they pupate in the soil from which the adults emerge throughout nearly the entire year, the largest number appearing from early spring to August. There are prob- ably two generations a year. Food Plants This species feeds upon hops, cabbage, potatoes, beets, turnips, dock, lambsquar- ters, pigweed, clover, rhubarb, cucumbei', radish, mustard and nettle. Control There have been numerous methods of control recommended for this pest. The measures directed against the hibernat- ing beetles consist in killing all on the poles or burning up the rubbish. In the spring the first step consists in capturing the adult beetles on the young vines. A tarred board or hand hopper dozer is used on or into which the beetles are shaken. Tanglefoot bands around the bases of the tresseled vines, as well as around the poles, not only keep the beetles from the CABBAGE PESTS 685 foliage but capture great quantities of them. Various contract sprays, such as tobacco extract, emulsions, soaps, resin wash, and arsenic also have been used with good effect, but the cost due to great numbers of applications necessary, makes them almost prohibitive. E. O. EssiG Imported Cabbage Web Worm Hellwla undalis. Fab The moth is gray in color with mot- tled fore wings which have an expanse of about five-eighths of an inch. The full- grown larvae are about half an inch long, grayish-yellow with five longitudinal bands. Distributed pretty well over the South and Southeast. Does considerable dam- age to cabbages, turnips, beets and the cruciferae generally. Several species of flies are parasites. Bordeaux mixture sprayed on the plants when first set out acts as a repellent. Clean culture and destruction of refuse material is also suggested. Literature Bureau Entomology Bulletin 109, Pt. III. Division Entomology Bulletin 33, New Series. Imported Cabbage Worm Pontia rapae Sch. Family Pieridae Pieris rapae Linn. General Appearance Though this is an imported insect it has become as common as if it had al- ways been here. The adult butterflies are about one and one-fourth inches long with a wing expanse of two inches. The color is white with two small black spots near the middle and a large black spot at the tip of each fore wing. The caterpillars are light velvety green in color and very finely dotted with minute dark spots. The length when full grown varies from one to one and one half inches. The chrysalis is about one inch long and varies in color from yellow to green, light or dark gray. Life History In the northern part of the state the species winters over in the chrysalis stage. while in the south adult butterflies may be seen almost any time of the year. They become very much in evidence early in March and are active throughout the entire summer and fall. Egg laying be- gins soon after the adults leave the chrysalis stage. The eggs hatch in about a week and the young caterpillars begin feeding at once. They first feed upon the outer leaves, making them ragged and holey, but gradually work through towards the heart of the cabbage, leaving the dark-green excrement to mark their paths of destruction. The growth is very Fig. 1. Adults, Imported Cabbage Worm. (Tennessee Experiment Station) rapid so that in from one to two weeks they are ready to select some secluded spot beneath an old cabbage leaf or some nearby object and prepare for the chry- salis stage, which, during the first two generations in the summer months, lasts little longer than the larval stage, but which in the fall continues throughout the winter. There are several generations a year. In fact in the southern part of the state it seems as if the breeding is only slightly checked during the winter months. 686 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Food Plants The principal economic food plants are cabbage, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, turnip, radish, mustard, and horseradish. Other plants attacked are wild mustard, wild radish, nasturtium, mignonette and sweet alyssum. Control The larvae, working as they do into the heads of the cabbages, make control methods practically impossible after they have once begun. Young plants may well be protected by arsenical sprays which are applied with safety until the heads are half grown. Prof. L. Bruner claims that cornmeal dusted on the cabbages causes the worms to leave. Clean culture should be practiced and no cabbage or host plants allowed to grow during the interval be- tween crops unless they are freely sprayed with strong solutions of arsenical sprays. Ifatnral Enemies Internal parasites, working upon the chrysalids, are important factors in the control of the pest. In this state the small parasite (Pteromalus puparum) is quite widely distributed and is bred and sent to all parts of the state by the State Insectary. In the Eastern states a chal- cid (Apanteles glomeratus) does excellent work in killing off the caterpillars, but this has not been established in this state. A bug (Phymata wolffii) preys upon the butterflies, which they capture on flowers while the wasp (PoUstes pal- lipesj destroys large numbers of the worms. E. O. EssiG (Further remedies suggested by A. L. Lovett, of Oregon Experiment Station. — Ed.) For very small plants use Paris green one pound, and air slaked lime, road dust or cheap flour 20 pounds. Mix thorough- ly and dust over plants by sifting through a coarse sack. This material will adhere better if applied in the early morning while the dew is on. For older plants the regular arsenical sprays may be used, adding a little soap to aid them in sticking, or better still, use the resin lime mixture prepared as fol- lows: Stock solution: Pulverized resin 5 pounds Concentrated lye 1 pound Fish oil soap or any cheap ani- mal oil, except tallow 1 pint Water 5 gallons Place the oil, resin and one gallon of hot water in vessel for cooking. Heat until the resin is softened, add the lye solution made as for hard soap, stir thoroughly and add four gallons more of hot water. Boil for two hours or until the mixture will unite readily with water, making a clear amber liquid. Add water to make up for that lost by evaporation. This constitutes the stock solution and may be kept indefinitely. In applying it, for every gallon of the stock solution add first 16 gallons of water, then three gallons of thin whitewash and one-quarter pound of Paris green. Hot water at a temperature of 130 Fahr- enheit will kill the worms and will not injure the cabbage plants. Native Cabbage Worm Pontia protodice. Pieris protodice Butterfly, looks much like the last, but has about four angular black marks at and behind tips. Female very different from male, with wings all checkered with black. Worm, obscure, purple color, with four longitudinal pale yellow stripes, two on each side. Head and body minutely dot- ted with black. Pupa, in the main, like the last, but dotted with black. The worm, though not nearly so troublesome as the imported, can be overcome by the same sprays. L. F. Henderson Seed- stalk Weevil CeutorJiyncJius guadridens Panz A somewhat serious pest in sections where seed cabbages are grown, as in Long Island. No remedy suggested. Western Twelve-Spotted Cucumber Beetles. See under Cucuml)er. Literature Bulletins of the State Experiment Sta- tions and the United States Department of Agriculture, mostly of the last two de- cades: CABBAGE PESTS 687 Common Cabbage Looper Autographa (Phisia) brassicae Riley 1884. The cabbage plusia.— C. V. Riley (U. S. D. A. Rpt., 1883, pp. 119-122, pis. 2). 1893. A few common insect pests. — C. P. Gillette (Colo. Bui. 24, pp. 8, 9, fig. 1). 1898. A spraying mixture for cauli- flower and cabbage worms. — F. A. Sirrine (N. Y. State Bui. 144, pp. 38-46, pi. 1). 1902. Some insects injurious to vege- table crops.— P. H. Chittenden (U. S. D. A., Bur. Ent. Bui. 33, pp. 60-69, figs. 2). 1909. Some cabbage worms and sugges- tions for destroying them. — W. E. Rum- sey and Fred E. Brooks (W. Va. Bui. 120, pp. 345-352, pis. 2). Diamond-back Moth Plutella maculipennis (cruciferarum) Curtis 1892. Insects injurious to the cabbage. — H. E. Weed (Miss. Bui. 21, pp. 8, 9, fig. 1). 1893. Injurious insects of Maryland. — C. V. Riley (Md. Bui. 23, pp. 83, 84, fig. 1). 1895. The pests of the orchard and garden.— L. R. Taft and G. C. Davis (Mich. Bui. 121, p. 62, fig. 1). Imported Cabbage Worms Pontia (Pieris) rapae Linn 1889. Important injurious insects. — C. P. Gillette (la. Bui. 5, pp. 171-174, fig. 5). 1894. Insects affecting late cabbage. — F. A. Sirrine (N. Y. State Bui. 83, pp. 658-666, pi. 1). 1895. Treatment of common diseases and insects injurious to fruits and vege- tables.— S. A. Beach and W. Paddock (N. Y. State Bui. 86, pp. 98, 99). 1895. Insects injurious to fruits and vegetables.— J. T. Stinson (Ark. Bui. 33, pp. 81, 82, figs. 2). 1905. The imported cabbage worm. — F. H. Chittenden (U. S. D. A. Bur. Ent. Circ. 60, pp. 8, fig. 6). 1907. Imported cabbage butterfly (N. Y. State [Geneva] Rept. 25, Pt. 3, pp. 243-245, pi. 1). Southern Cabbage Butterfly Pontia (Pieris) protodice Boisd. Potherb Butterfly Pontia (Pieris) napi Linn Cross-striped Cabbage Worm Evergestis (Pionea) rimosalis Guen Cutworms Various species of Noctuids 1895. Cabbage cut worms. — C. V. Riley (U. S. D. A. Rpt. 1884, pp. 289-300, figs. 10) Describes the following: Dark-sided cutworm, Agrotis messoria Harr. Granulated cutworm, Agrotis annexa Treitschke. Shagreened cutworm, Agrotis malefida Guen. W-marked cutworm, Agrotis clandes- tina Harr. Greasy cutworm, Agrotis ypsilon Rott. Speckled cutworm, Mamestra suhjuncta G. & R. Glassy cutworm, Hadena devastatrix. Brace. Variegated cutworm, Agrotis samcia Treitschke. 1895. Cutworms, etc.— J. B. Smith (N. J. Bui. 109, pp. 3-13, figs. 3). 1895. Cutworms in Kentucky. — H. Garman (Ky. Bui. 58, pp. 89-107, pi. 1). 1895. Climbing cutworms in Western New York. — M. V. Slingerland (N. Y. Cornell Bui. 104, pp. 553-600, pis. 5, figs. 2). 1895. Insects injurious in 1895. — O. Lugger (Minn. Bui. 43, pp. 232-243, fig. 1). 1896. Some injurious insects. — G. C. Davis (Mich. Bui. 132, pp. 3-14, figs. 8). 1907. Cutworms. — H. T. Fernald (Mass. Circ. 2, pp. 2). Imported Cabbage Webworm Hellula undalis Fab. 1899. Some insects injurious to gar- den and orchard crops. — F. H. Chitten- den (U. S. D. A., Bur. Ent. Bui. 19, pp. 51-57, fig. 1). 1900. Some insects injurious to garden crops. — F. H. Chittenden (U. S. D. A., Bur. Ent. Bui. 23, pp. 53-61, fig. 1). Cabbage Aphis Aphis brassicae Linn 1890. Plant lice and how to deal with them.— J. B. Smith (N. J. Bui. 72, pp. 16- 20, figs. 2). ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE 1892. Horticulture and entomology. — E. S. Richman (Utah Bui. 14, pp. 7-10, figs. 7). 1893. Miscellaneous entomological pa- pers.— F. M. Webster (Ohio Bui. 51, pp. 109-111). 1897. Some common injurious plant lice, with suggestions for their destruc- tion.—W. G. Johnson (Md. Bui. 48, pp. 97, 98, fig. 1). 1909. Some insects injurious to cab- bage, cucumbers and related crops. — F. H. Chittenden (Va. Truck Sta. Bui. 2, pp. 22-30, figs. 4). Cabbage Root Maggot Pegomya (Phorhia) brassicae Bouche 1894. The cabbage root maggot, with notes on the onion maggot and allied in- sects.— M. V. Slingerland (N. Y. Cornell Bui. 78, pp. 481-577, figs. 18). 1905. Root maggots and how to con- trol them.— F. H. Chittenden (U. S. D. A., Bur. Bnt. Circ. 63, pp. 7, figs. 5). 1905. Cabbage root maggot. Poisoned bran for cutworms. — W. S. Blair (Canada Exp. Farms Rpt. 1904, pp. 362-364). 1906. The cabbage maggot and other injurious insects of 1906. — F. L. Wash- burn (Minn. Bui. 100, pp. 1-19, eld. pi. 1, figs. 11). 1907. The cabbage and onion maggots. — John B. Smith and E. L. Dickerson (N. J. Exp. Sta. Bui. 200, pp. 27, figs. 13). 1907. The cabbage maggot and other injurious insects of 1906. — F. L. Wash- burn (Minn. Bui. 100, pp. 87, pis. 7, figs. 57). 1907. Root maggots. — H. T. Fernald (Mass. Circ. 5, pp. 2). 1908. The apple leaf hopper and other injurious insects of 1907 and 1908. — F. L. Washburn (Minn. Bui. 112, pp. 196-213, figs. 3). 1908. Screening for the protection of cabbage seedbeds. — W. J. Schoene (N. Y. State Bui. 301, pp. 165-174, pi. 1). Cabbage Flea Beetle, or Striped Turnip Flea Beetle Phyllotreta vittata Fab. 1885. The wavy-striped flea beetle. — C. V. Riley (U. S. D. A. Rpt. 1884, pp. 301-304, fig. 1). 1890. The cabbage flea beetle. — H. Gar- man (Ky.) Rpt. 1889, pp. 23-25). 1891. The striped flea beetle or cab- bage flea.— A. D. Hopkins (W. Va. Rpt. 1890, pp. 147-150). 1895. Remedies for flea beetles. — C. M. Weed (N. H. Bui. 29, pp. 3-7, figs. 5). Harlequin Cabbage Bug Murgantia histioniea Hahn 1908. The harlequin cabbage bug. — F. H. Chittenden (U. S. D. A., Bur. Ent. Circ. 103, pp. 10, fig. 1). False Chinch Bug Nysius angustatus Uhl 1894. Chinch bugs. — L. Brunner and H. G. Barber (Neb. Bui. 34, pp. 153, 154, fig. 1). Cabbage Curculio Coutorhyncfius rapae Gyll 1900. Some insects injurious to garden crops.— F. H. Chittenden (U. S. D. A., Bur. Ent. Bui. 23, pp. 39-53, figs. 2). Cabbage Hair Worm Mermis spp et al. 1905. Cabbage snakes. — H. Garman (Ky. Bui. 120, pp. 78-81, pi. 1). 1908. The cabbage hair worm. — F. H. Chittenden (U. S. D. A., Bur. Ent. Circ. 62, pp. 6, fig. 1). Lists of Books and Pamphlets 1901. Bibliography of the more impor- tant contributions to American economic entomology. Part VII. — Nathan Banks (U. S. D. A., Bur. Ent, pp. 113). Price, cloth, 20 cents. Postage, 3 cents. (Cov- ers the period between December 31, 1896, and January 1, 1909). 1905. Bibliography, etc. (as above). — Nathan Banks (U. S. D. A., Bur. Ent, pp. 132). Price, 10 cents. Postage, 3 cents. (Covers the period between December 31, 1899, and January 1, 1905). 1910. A list of works on North Ameri- can entomology — Nathan Banks, (U. S. D. A., Bur. Ent Bui. 81, pp. 120). Price, 15 cents. Postage, 4 cents. (Application and money for these bibli- ographies should be sent to Superintend- ent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C.) Useful works on economic entomology, containing information on the pests of cole crops. CABBAGE PESTS— CALIFORNIA 689 1902. Insects injurious to staple crops. — E. D. Sanderson (New York; John Wiley & Sons, pp. 205, figs. 162). Price, $1.50. 1906. Economic entomology. — J. B. Smith (Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott Co., pp. 475, figs. 475). Price, $2.50. 1907. Insects injurious to vegetables. — F. H. Chittenden (New York: Orange Judd Co., pp. 262, figs. 163). Price, $1.50. Bulletins covering in a general manner the treatment of cabbage insects. 1904. Cabbage diseases and insects. — J. B. S. Norton and T. B. Symons (Md. Circ. Bui. 58, pp. 10, figs. 6). 1904. Insects injurious to cabbage. — H. Garman (Ky. Bui. 114, pp. 15-47, figs. 17). 1906. Cabbages for stock feeding. — S. Fraser (N. Y. Cornell Bui. 242, pp. 69, 70). 1906. Farm practice in the control of field-crop insects. — F. M. Webster (U. S. D. A. Yearbook 1905, pp. 465-476, pis. 2, figs. 2). (Published separately as Year- book Separate 396.) California California grows more fruit than any other state in the Union. It is not as large as Texas but its coast line on the west, its high mountain ranges on the east and west extending from north to south through the whole length of the state, and its great central plain, the cli- mate of which is modified by the ocean breezes cooling the temperature in sum- mer and modifying its severity in the winter, make it better adapted to all kinds of fruits, from the semi-tropical to the hardier fruits grown generally in the northern climates, than any other portion of the United States. It has a great variety of soils, as well as of climate. Sometimes within a few miles of each other, two different points, on account of altitude, wind currents, ocean breezes, or difference in soils, may be adapted to the growing of fruits that are generally found at great distances from each other, in other parts of the United States. Cali- fornia grows fewer apples than New York, Pennsylvania or Missouri, and a number of other states, but not far from the ap- ple-growing region may be found oranges, lemons, and other semi-tropical fruits. These fruits have produced immense wealth and have enabled the inhabitants to make beautiful homes, while at the same time there are regions that partake largely of the nature of the arid districts of other states. It has a coast line of 900 miles. Granville Lowther Haryest Time for Various Crops in California The following table shows the time at which some of the various fruits, vege- tables, and garden products are harvest- ed: Almonds August to September Apples July to November Apricots June to August Blackberries June to September Cantaloupes May to July Cherries May to July Currants May to June Dewberries May to July Figs July to November Grapes July to January Grape Fruit All the year Guavas All the year (two crops) Lemons All the year Limes All the year Loganberries June to September Loquats May and June Mulberries July to September Nectarines June to August Olives October to January Oranges October to January Pears .Tuly to November Peaches July to Christmas Persimmons, Japanese. .November and December Plums June to September Prunes June to September Pomegranates September to December Quinces October to December Raspberries June to October Strawberries All the year Watermelons July to October Vegetables Asparagus March to July Beans May to October Cabbage All the year Cauliflower October to June Celery October to June Corn May to October Cucumbers April to November Lettuce All the year Melons May to October Onions All the year Peas All the year Potatoes. two crops plant August and February Radishes All the year- E. J. WiCKSON 690 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Frost and Precipitation in California No. Frost Precipitation Station Average Date of Date of Annual First killing Autumn Last in Spring Earliest in Autumn Latest in Spring inches Sission 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 Sept. 26 Sept. 27 Nov. 15 Dec. 3 Oct. 3 Nov. 25 Dec. 14 Sept. 15 Nov. 26 May 26 May 11 Apr. 9 Mar. 23 May 10 Mar. 15 Mar. 24 May 31 Mar. 27 Sept. 13 Sept. 14 Nov. 7 Nov. 20 Sept. 8 Nov. 7 Dec. 12 Sept. 6 Oct. 16 July 6 June 2 May 1 May 1 May 22 Apr. 19 Apr. 10 July 6 May 2 37.8 Cedarville Flureka . 13.7 45.8 Redding 36.2 Susan ville Red Bluff 22.9 25.7 Chico 22.4 La Porte 77.9 Ukiah 35.0 46.9 Auburn 33.4 Davisville Sacramento Napa. Dec. 7 Nov. 15 Dec. 24 Feb. 26 Feb. 16 Feb. 27 Jan. 25 Feb. 23 Feb. 8 Mar. 5 Mar. 12 Mar. 16 Mar. 4 Mar. 17 Nov. 26 Oct. 28 Nov. 27 Dec. 13 Nov. 9 Nov. 28 Nov. 28 Nov. 26 Nov. 8 Nov. 18 Sept. 21 Apr. 4 Apr. 26 Mar. 30 Apr. 20 Apr. 12 Feb. 18 Mar. 28 Mar. 30 Apr. 27 Apr. 14 May 28 16.6 19.9 23.7 San Francisco 22.5 Livermore San Jose Dec. 2 Dec. 6 Dec. 11 Dec. 7 Nov. 23 Dec. 15 Oct. 25 15.3 14.8 Merced 10.3 Santa Cruz HoUister 27.0 12.3 Fresno 9.2 Independence King City Visalia 3.7 10.8 Nov. 21 Dec. 17 Apr. 11 Mar. 17 Nov. 16 Nov. 15 Apr. 11 Apr. 8 9.8 San Luis Obispo. . . Bakersfield 19.2 4.8 Santa Barbara. . 16.6 Los Angeles Redlands Apr. 8 Feb. 19 Dec. 12 Nov. 24 Apr. 8 Apr. 29 15.6 Dec. 12 14.8 Needles 2.7 Sal ton 2.5 San Diego 9.4 Table of Productiveness A table of productiveness of various articles that can be raised on one acre of ground in California: Alfalfa $ 35 to $ 60 Almonds 75 to 200 Apples 100 to 200 Apricots 75 to 150 Asparagus 100 to 250 Berries 150 to 500 Blackberries 250 to 500 Beans 30 to 100 Cherries 100 to 225 Chestnuts 150 to 400 Fijjs 100 to 250 Loganberries 250 to 300 Lemons 100 to 400 Melons Nectarines Olives Oranges Peaches Potatoes (Sweet) Potatoes (Irish) Prunes Pears Pomelos Plums Pecans Quinces Raisin Grapes . . Strawberries . . . Table Grapes . . . Tomatoes Walnuts E. J. 5 25 to $125 100 to 200 75 to 1.50 150 to soo 100 to 250 50 to 150 50 to 150 75 to 200 100 to 400 100 to 400 100 to 200 150 to 000 100 to 200 75 to 1.50 150 to 300 100 to 500 50 to 1.50 200 to 800 WiCKSON CALIFORNIA 691 —I -a oiocou5c-ct~i-ia5cot>- o ic o o o ira CO -^ lO «£■ O 00 to Oi •S .s bo a * 9 ^ o "^ f -=. s « s OS X3 ■a 0) a o o «5 C3 -a a OOOOOlOO(M incooiOi-Ht-teto ko«>_«ciou50oeo;o O00"lO00rHl0«0U5 t- OJ CO iH lOLtiinOiHOOOt- C0C m o o in o o cq-^r-lTH00t- to -^tocooocoarto '*' ca eg ,-( CO CO looooususoeq C^OtOlOCOlMlO-^ T-H o M LC5 CO oa c00^000 05CJt-t- CO as' ci" T-T cq 00 00 t>r oo to n c000>OcOlOOOLOOOlOOtO lOOlOOtDC>'3'Hc> COO t^lOC^t--OOt--rH,— I O5C bO 02 ® a> > ^ -3 *e 03 01 -tJ 03 *;^ 03 53 (U O ^ o3 P ^ H 0)0*3 OhHO 2 ce o 692 ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE THE CALIFORNIA CITRUS INDUSTRY Growing of citrus fruits in California is rapidly advancing in acreage and in product, each year receiving greater in- vestment and effort, and each year reach- ing a greater aggregate gross return for the product marketed. There has also been gratifying progress made in meet- ing the problems and difficulties which are bound to arise in the development of an industry involving so many novel situations and affecting so many inter- ests— individual, corporate, and political. In the following brief statement I shall endeavor to indicate what seem to me the most salient features of the Cali- fornia citrus industry, chiefly from the commercial point of view. California Citrus Census The report of the California State Board of Equalization, which presents the figures gathered by the assessors in all the counties of the state, shows that there were growing in the spring of 1912 the following totals of citrus trees in California, viz.: No. of trees No. of trees Bearing: Non-Bearing: Lemon 952,290 743,352 Lime 1,371 450 Orange 6,013,272 633,366 Pomelo 11,321 6,280 Totals 6,978,254 1,383,448 These figures show the leadership of the orange, the rather remote second of the lemon, and the fact that the two show about the same rate of increase through recent plantings. They also in- dicate a greater rate of increase in the pomelo, though the total is still insig- nificant, and that the lime is only a curiosity. Other citrus fruits are too small in number for enumeration. Taking the orange and lemon as a measure of the citrus geography of Cali- fornia, and choosing counties having more than 100,000 trees, bearing and non-bearing, according to the 1912 re- port of the California State Horticul- tural Commissioner, the following state- ment results: Number Number Counties of Orange of Lemon San Bernardino 3,720,320 385,490 Los Angeles 2,431,000 852,500 Riverside 1,934,790 392,676 Tulare 3,412,000* Orange 929,480 237,405 Ventura 204,961 298,176 Butte 192,168 3.032 Fresno 170,000 5,200 San Diego 101,017 295,957 Santa Barbara 509 297.386 These counties are distributed through a north and south distance of about 550 miles, and the interest is con- centrated toward the south and widely scattered toward the north, with much intervening land as good for citrus fruits as that already planted. Citrus fruits are equally safe throughout the whole distance, and it is clear that Cali- fornia has a capacity for citrus produc- tion far beyond present attainment, if greater amounts of fruit can be pro- fitably sold, as it certainly promises to be, if current protection is maintained. Mr. G. Harold Powell, Secretary of the Citrus Protective League of California, estimates that California citrus plant- ings now occupy about 150,000 acres of land and represent in lands, trees, build- ings and operating property of all kinds a value of $200,000,000. He also esti- mates the fruit produced at almost $40,- 000,000, valued at selling points. The annual shipments for several years have been as follows: 1908-9, 40,516 carloads; 1909-10, 33,099 carloads; 1910-11, 46,394 carloads and 1911-12, 40,290 carloads. California Citrus Problems Cultural problems connected with growing citrus fruits are many. Some of them have evidently reached a basis of settlement. For instance, nearly all insects are controlled by fumigation, and the remaining requirements are to do the work more effectively and eco- nomically. The problems of the develop- ment of irrigation water from streams or from underground sources and the distribution thereof have been well work- ed out, but the ministration of water to the tree so that its greatest vigor and producing efficiency shall be maintained is not yet satisfactorily mastered. The * Orange and lemon trees together. CALIFORNIA 693 desirability of soil improvement, chem- ically and physically, by the growing and covering-in of legumes in the or- chard has been fully demonstrated, but choice of particular plants and cultural policies are still to be determined. The use of fertilizers is constantly increasing and their indispensability recognized, but their relations to tillage, moisture distribution, and to the vegetative func- tions of the trees are still matters of conflicting opinions. The Citrus Protective League And yet the problems which California citrus growers wrestle with most suc- cessfully are commercial problems, and they have created unique organizations to labor for their solution. Mr. G. Harold Powell, then secretary and man- ager of the Citrus Protective League, in January, 1911, issued a general state- ment of the character and work of the organization from which the following generally significant paragraphs are taken : The Citrus Protective League of Cali- fornia is a voluntary organization formed in March, 1906, by representatives of growers, shippers and shipping organiza- tions in nearly all of the citrus growing localities in the state, to handle the public policy questions that affect the industry as a whole. Its purpose is to represent the grower and shipper in handling such questions as railroad rates and transporta- tion problems; customs tariffs and other governmental relations, state and federal legislation that applies directly to the business; and all other questions of a general nature that affect the upbuilding of the industry, except the marketing of fruit. The league is directed by an executive committee of nine and by a secretary and manager, the executive committee having been appointed by an administrative committee of 30 of the principal growers and shippers, who act as a governing committee, and who were selected from the representative delegates who organ- ized the league in 1906. The league is supported by funds raised by general assessment, based on the number of cars of fruit shipped by each member during the preceding year. Fourteen assessments were levied to De- cember 31, 1910, and $68,654.88 has been paid in by the members in the five years since the league was organized, of which approximately $65,000 was expended in the management of its business to De- cember 31, 1910. The league has played an important part in the progress of the citrus indus- try in the past five years. In 1907 it induced the railroads to re- duce freight rates on oranges 10 cents per 100 pounds, from $1.25 to $1.15. This rate became effective February 26, 1907, since when it has saved the shippers from $28 to $30 per car. The gain to the industry from February 26, 1907, to December 31, 1910, from this reduction has been about $3,175,000, or about 45 times the entire cost of the league, from the date of organization to the present time. Following the reduction in the freight rate and as a result of the succeeding agitation accompanying the refrigeration rate question, the railroads changed the refrigeration tariffs, allowing 32,000 pounds of fruit to be shipped in a 40-foot car at the same rate per car for refriger- ation as applied before on 27,650 pounds. This change became effective July 5, 1909. It is estimated that the value of this change to the shipper is approxi- mately $35,000 to date, or more than half of the entire cost of the league since its organization. In 1908 the league began a movement to prevent the duty of one cent per pound on oranges being reduced by congress and to secure an increase of one-half cent per pound on lemons for the purpose of cov- ering the extra cost in labor expended on the lemon above the labor cost ex- pended on the orange. The league was successful in both of these efforts, the duty standing now at one cent per pound on the orange and one and one-half cents per pound on the lemon. The league made an investigation of the methods used by the government in determining the amount of decay in im- 694 ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE ports of lemons, and in refunding the duty to the importers on the same. The league determined that the federal sys- tem gave an advantage to the importer that was detrimental to the California citrus interests. It presented the matter to the secretary of the treasury, before whom it laid the data accumulated. A great deal of consideration has been given the question, and it is expected that the honorable secretary of the treasury will promulgate new regulations in the near future which will safeguard the interests of the government and protect the Cali- fornia industry from further unfair com- petition. Two months after congress advanced the duty on imports of lemons from one cent to one and one-half cents a pound, the railroads, through the Transconti- nental Freight Bureau, attempted to ab- sorb part of the duty granted by congress by advancing the rate 15 cents per 100 pounds. The league secured a temporary injunction through the Circuit Court of the United States for the Southern Dis- trict in California, restraining the rail- road from collecting the proposed in- crease in rates. The commission subse- quently found that the rate of $1.15 per 100 pounds on lemons was unreasonable and that the rate ought not to exceed $1 per 100 pounds. At the same time the league questioned the reasonableness of the increased rate on lemons, and at the same time the rea- sonableness of the rate $1.15 per 100 pounds on oranges; and the reasonable- ness of the charges for refrigeration and pre-cooling charges, and the contentions of the growers were, in the main, sus- tained. The league is actively engaged in an effort to sustain the import duties on citrus fruits to meet the determined ef- forts of importers to reduce these duties. The league will use every effort to bring to the help of the grower special investigators from the state and federal governments to study the diseases, the insects, the soil problems, and other cul- tural, fruit handling and fruit transporta- tion problems that affect the industry. It will maintain an agricultural reference library without expense to the grower, and will develop a bureau of information showing the international movement of citrus fruit and other fruits that have a relation to the industry. The league is the only organization that has been formed by an agricultural in- dustry in America, and probably in the world, to look after the general public policy questions that alfect it. It repre- sents 90 per cent of the growers and shippers of the state. The organization is a vital part of the industry, formed to protect and advance its interests. The California Fruit Growers' Exchange The greatest co-operative undertaking in fruit marketing in California is the California Fruit Growers' Exchange, or- ganized in 1895 by the citrus fruit pro- ducers and systematically developed since that time until in scope, methods, mastery of the shipment and distribution, in de- velopment of markets and in reduced cost of placing the product therein, there is nothing comparable with it in the broad field of commercial agriculture. In March, 1911, B. A. Woodford, general manager of the exchange, prepared a careful state- ment of the standing and accomplish- ments of the organization from which the following facts, significant to producers of all kinds of fruits, are compiled: Large and widely distributed citrus plantings began in Southern California about 1885, upon the basis of successful results attained in special localities dur- ing the previous decade. When these plantations came into bearing in consid- erable quantity, the ready market for cash at home that had existed for the fruit when the crop was small was found to be inadequate, and nearly 20 years ago, with an output of only 4,000 cars annually, the growers were unable to dispose of the entire crop under old methods at fair prices. Through the experience gained in their co-operative water companies, they found it comparatively easy to unite in establishing common packing houses in the various producing sections, which they themselves owned and controlled. These houses were conducted at actual CALIFORNIA 695 cost of operation, the expenses being usually apportioned on a box basis. The purpose of the association was, primar- ily, to bring about uniformity in grading and packing, and to reduce the cost of preparing the fruit for sale. These econ- omies were shared by the grower alone. In packing their fruits on a mutual basis the growers have, however, only solved in a small degi'ee the real problem that confronted them and, to get the full benefit of co-operation, it became neces- sary to extend these joint operations to the distribution and sale of the fruit. The result was the formation of the Cali- fornia Fruit Growers' Exchange, to which the grower entrusted the marketing of his fruit after it had been packed and placed in the car. More than 110 of these packing associations have joined together in this manner, and their business has increased from 20 per cent of the entire crop 12 years ago, to 40 per cent six years ago, and 60 per cent today. The problem of distribution is fully as important as the problem of sale. Our crops are now so large, and the necessity of keeping our oranges and lemons before the entire consuming public is so great, that not only must the fruit be put into every possible available market, but the distribution must be even and continu- ous. Any other practice invites disaster. With the 110 packing houses operating through the exchange, each conducting its own business independently of the other, or with the 16 district exchanges of which the general exchange is com- posed, each operating independently of the other, bare markets at one point and overstocked markets at the same time in another would be the inevitable result. As it is now, with 60 per cent of the busi- ness in harmonious action, and knowing by experience about what the policy of the non-exchange shippers is, the distribu- tion of its fruit by the exchange is con- ducted on a basis that assures far greater consumption at better prices than for- merly when its percentage of shipments was smaller. The organized selling force of the ex- change throughout the country is one of its strongest features. This force is com- posed almost wholly of salaried agents, each giving his undivided attention to selling exchange oranges and lemons. This is in line with the policy of all up-to-date business enterprises, it being universally recognized that specialized service brings best results. Salaried salesmen in all im- portant market centers is a distinctively exchange feature in citrus fruit market- ing, and the exchange has 75 principal offices of its own in the United States, Canada and Europe, with over 200 sal- aried salesmen operating out of them, re- porting sales and market conditions daily by wire. The savings to the growers who sell their fruit through the exchange at the actual cost of operation with no profit to any individuals except the salaries that they get, run into astonishing figures when based upon the entire output of the state. Twenty million boxes of oranges and lemons have been produced in Cali- fornia the present season. One cent per box on this output amounts to $200,000. A few cents per box saved out of packers' profits, added to a few cents per box saved out of sellers' profits, amounts to several millions of dollars annually. Newspaper advertising has been the greatest single factor in bringing about increased consumption of our oranges and lemons. From the experience gained through an initial expenditure of $10,000 in the first year of advertising in Iowa, and materially increased expenditures each succeeding year, with an appropria- tion of $100,000 for an advertising cam- paign that covers nearly the entire United States and Canada the present season, the exchange is now in a position to testify as to the complete success of its advertising methods. Three thousand newspapers scattered broadcast through- out the land are advertising regularly the superior merit of California citrus fruits and of California Fruit Growers' Exchange citrus fruits in particular. Such extensive publicity can only be obtained by the expenditure of a very large sum, but $100,000 means only four-fifths of a cent per box to exchange growers on this 696 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE year's shipments. As our crops increase, it will be necessary to extend this ad- vertising in various other ways at greater cost, but with increasing shipments in the exchange this is entirely practicable at only slight expense to any grower. We feel confident in predicting that there is no danger of overproduction of good fruit if the growers unite in the advertising, distribution, and sale of their oranges and lemons after they have grown them. In obtaining packing supplies, the sav- ings that have been made through the operations of the Fruit Growers' Supply Company, which is owned by exchange growers, are something over a half mil- lion dollars per year, as compared with conditions that formerly prevailed. The supply company is now giving its atten- tion to the purchase of fertilizers and other orchard supplies, with a probable ultimate saving in sight which will equal or exceed what has already been done with reference to packing house supplies. It might be of interest to know that in six seasons the exchange sold for its growers 38,962,008 boxes of oranges and lemons, for which it received $69,873,137.45 net cash f. o. b. California, or an average of $1.79 per box for every box handled, with a loss of less than $6,000 for failure to collect during the entire period. The contrast is clearly drawn between conditions in 1892 when disaster resulted from individual action in marketing a crop of only 4,000 cars, and fair prices this season, through co-operative market- ing of 60 per cent of a crop of 50,000 cars of citrus fruits. A summary of the benefits realized to the citrus fruit industry through organ- ized co-operation is about as follows: 1. The cost of packing, as compared with 1892, has been reduced to all grow- ers more than 10 cents per box; a saving of $2,000,000 annually on the present out- put. 2. The cost of selling has been reduced more than five cents per box in the same period; a saving annually of more than $1,000,000. 3. The orange freight rate has been re- duced seven cents per box; a saving on the present output of more than $1,200,000 annually. 4. The lemon freight rate has been re- duced 21 cents per box; a saving on the present output of more than $500,000 an- nually. 5. Through reduction of refrigeration cost, the growers will finally save $500,000 annually by the recent decision of the Interstate Commerce Commission. 6. The cost of orchard supplies, par- ticularly fertilizers, is being materially re- duced through the operations of the Grow- ers' Supply Company, with ultimate sav- ings of $500,000 in sight. 7. Through extended advertising, the consumption of citrus fruits has been in- creased to keep pace with production, thus avoiding disastrous results in years of large crops, insuring to the grower a fair price for his product, while the con- sumer is obtaining his oranges and lemons cheaper than ever before. The conclusions to be drawn as to fu- ture action are self-evident. The growers must be alive to their own interests at all times. They must absolutely control their own business and stand unitedly together in these great problems, such as adver- tising, distribution, and marketing, as well as in many other ways. Various in- terests are opposed to their success, and are present with plausible arguments, all based on the perfectly natural desire for private gain on the part of those who make them. With a falling oflE of mem- bership in the exchange, disaster to the industry would be invited, while, on the other hand, with a constantly increasing percentage of the crop to handle, it will be possible for the exchange to confident- ly plan for successful future operations with the maximum of benefit to the in- dustry and to the state, as well as show- ing to the world what can be done by a united body of intelligent producers through persistent organized co-operative effort. Pomological Points — While the chief activities in the California citrus indus- try are commercial, as indicated, pomo- logical points are receiving systematic attention. The types of orange and CALIFORNIA— CANADA 697 lemon varieties which best suit our growing conditions and trade require- ments are quite definitely agreed upon. All the varieties which are being largely planted can be counted upon the fingers of one hand, including the Navel and Valencia for oranges, and the Eureka for a lemon — leaving two more fingers to be occupied by half a dozen minor varieties to be individually or locally contended for. It is, however, quite clear that there is a great chance for advantage in select- ing variations superior in form, quality, productivity, etc., within the types, thus securing varieties which may be in many ways better than those now generally grown. The relative desirability of dif- ferent stocks is also being observed in plantations made for the purpose, and the choice of buds is included. The Cali- fornia Experiment Station at its branches in Riverside and Whittier and in general citrus orchard studies has several experts constantly at work. The Bureau of Plant Industry of the Department of Agricul- ture also has men continually employed in California. It will naturally require several years to reach trustworthy con- clusions in these lines. E. J. WiCKSON California Fruit Growers Exchange. See Marketing. Canada With the exception of Alaska, Green- land, Newfoundland and the two islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, all of the northern half of the American continent is comprised in the Dominion of Canada. The area in square miles is 3,729,656. The four principal surface divisions are: 1. The Appalachian region, forming the extreme southeastern corner. 2. The Laurentian Plateau or pene- plain with its fringe and outliers of low- lands around the lakes and the Hudson bay, comprising the remainder of the eastern half of Canada. 3. The great Central Plain. 4. The mountain regions of the West. Each of these divisions represents, on the whole, a different geological forma- tion, and has its own peculiar physical features. The Appalachian region is the north- eastern extremity of a system of moun- tains that were pushed up from the southeast against the Archaean or Lau- rentian area. Nova Scotia is a part of this system, and is one of the fruit grow- ing regions of Canada. The Laurentian Plateau or peneplain is a slight eleva- tion of tableland resting on hard crysta- line rocks everywhere scored by glaciers that created basins in which the water settled, forming lakes. The land surface is sparsely covered with soil on which grow pine, spruce and other northern trees, except in the higher altitudes, where mosses and lichens grow. South of the Laurentian Plateau is a valley of lowlands along the St. Lawrence river. This is the great fruit growing region of Quebec, while the strips of land that skirt the Great Lakes system are. the main fruit growing regions of On- tario. The most important fruit regions of Canada are thus surrounded in whole or in part by bodies of water that modify the temperature and protect from freez- ing, making it possible to grow fruit at a greater distance north than it would be possible without the lakes, the ocean or other bodies of water. The Atlantic ocean and the Bay of Fundy protect parts of Nova Scotia. The Great Lakes protect part of Ontario and the Pacific ocean protects the western portion of Canada. The Central Plain is of vast extent, reaching from the Arctic ocean south to the Gulf of Mexico, so that only a por- tion of this formation lies in Canada. There is very little fruit grown in this region north of the line which divides the United States and Canada, and prac- tically none is grown for commercial purposes. The fourth great division or mountain belt lies west of the mountains which extend from Tierre del Puego at the ex- tremity of South America up through the United States and Canada and to the farthest western point of Alaska. Granville Lowther 698 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE The Fruit Divisions of Canada To assist in estimating the marketable crop the fruit districts of the Dominion are divided as follows: District No. 1 — Counties north of Lake Erie and Niagara district. District No. 2— Counties on Lake Huron and inland to York county. District No. 3 — Counties bordering on Lake Ontario north to Sharbot lake and Georgian bay. District No. 4 — Ottawa and St. Lawr- ence valleys to Lake St. Peter and South- western Quebec. District No. 5 — New Brunswick with Northeastern Quebec. District No. 6 — Hants, Kings, Annapolis and Digby counties, Nova Scotia. District No. 7 — Nova Scotia not in- cluded in District 6. District No. 8 — Prince Edward island. District No. 9 — Lower mainland and islands, British Columbia. District No. 10 — Inland valleys, British Columbia. Districts Nos. 1, 9 and 10 ship the com- mercial crop of peaches and other tender fruits. Districts Nos. 1, 2, 3, 6, 9 and 10 grow plums, pears and winter varieties of apples for long distance markets and ex- port. District No. 4 ships Wealthy, Fameuse, Alexander and Mcintosh Red apples. Districts Nos. 5 and 7 will not produce sufficient winter fruit for home consump- tion. "F.," "L.," "M.," and "F.-C," which ap- pear below, are abbreviations of "Fail- ure," "Light," "Medium" and "Full Crop," respectively, as used by our cor- respondents in their monthly crop re- ports. A combination such as "M.-F.-C." means that about an equal number of correspondents reported "Medium" and "Full Crop." Those who would get full value from the fruit crop reports, would do well to study closely the nature of the crop in each of these districts. District No. 1 — Grows a large quantity of apples of good size, fine color and ex- cellent quality. Their one defect is that frequently even the winter varieties ripen so early in the fall that they deteriorate very materially before the cold weather of the early winter sets in and, therefore, unless they are placed in cold storage as soon as they are matured they are apt to show a large amount of waste if any attempt is made to keep them during the winter months. The apples, therefore, in this district must, for the most part be regarded as fall and early winter vari- eties, unless cold stoi-age facilities are provided to enable the holding of them for winter shipping stock. Consequently, if it should appear that there was a large crop in District No. 1, It would not materially affect the quantity of winter shipping apples, but would be counted in with the fall and early winter apples of the other districts. To this we might make the possible exception of such vari- eties as the Ben Davis, Stark and similar varieties that are very little grown in this district. District No. 2 — Grows excellent winter apples. It is far enough north, or the elevation above the sea level is such, that the winter varieties like the Greening, Baldwin, Spy and Russet, ripen just as the early winter sets in; consequently, these varieties may be picked and stored with advantage, as winter shipping apples in ordinary storage. A very marked peculiarity of the dis- trict is that orchards, though numerous, are small. The district is a very large one and apples can be grown to perfec- tion in any part of it; but the farmers are engaged, for the most part, in mixed farming. At three or four points selling associa- tions have been formed, and wherever these have been organized apple growing is exceedingly profitable. District No. 3 — Grows an equally good quality of winter apples; but the orchards are larger and the fruit growers are tak- ing better care of them. Pruning, spray- ing and cultivating are common. The varieties planted are fewer in number and CANADA 699 confined almost exclusively to winter apples. Another significant feature that must be taken into account in future apple re- ports is that planting is being done quite freely in District No. 3. The number of young trees under 10 years old probably equals the present plantings. Conse- quently, each succeeding year there will be a large addition to the aggregate of the crop coming from District No. 3 as the result of new orchards coming into bearing. There will be a tendency, there- fore, to underestimate the crop from this district on this account. District No. 4 — This district has a large quantity of apples of the Fameuse and Wealthy type. The climate is too severe for the standard winter varieties grown in Ontario. The varieties, such as the Mcintosh Red, Wealthy, Wolfe River and a number of other hardy varieties, are all fall and early winter apples. In esti- mating the apple crop, therefore, consid- eration must be given to this fact, that a large crop of apples in District No. 4 will materially affect the market only during the fall and early winter months, and even in such cases the apples grown in this district are more desirable for dessert purposes than for cooking pur- poses. They, therefore, occupy a special position in the market. District No. 5 has comparatively few trees. The quantity of fruit raised here is not enough for home consumption, so that it need scarcely be taken into con- sideration in an estimate of the crop for commercial purposes. This district in- cludes New Brunswick. The possibilities of orcharding in the St. John valley are so great that there is a probability in the future of having to make a separate divi- sion of this part of District No. 5 to se- cure greater accuracy in the estimate. District No. 6 is an exceedingly impor- tant one in apple production. It includes the four counties of Hants, Kings, Anna- polis and Digby in Nova Scotia. It would be quite possible, considering the high state of cultivation in which a large number of the orchards are kept, to have a surplus of 500,000 or 600,000 barrels for export. It will be readily seen that this is a very important fruit district in estimat- ing the marketable crop for any particular year. The Gravenstein forms the largest bulk of their earliest shipments. This variety, however, is being less planted, and the district is becoming more and more confined to the winter shipping va- rieties. The Blenheim Orange type ap- pears to flourish here better than the varieties so successful in Districts Nos. 1, 2 and 3. These are extremely popular in the English market, and, therefore, are always likely to be in good demand. District No. 7 embraces the rest of Nova Scotia not included in District No. 6. A few isolated and protected valleys, par- ticularly in the counties of Lunenburg and Digby, are demonstrating their capa- city for growing fruit in commercial quan- tities; but as a whole it may be said that there is not enough winter fruit grown for home consumption, nor is there suffi- cient quantity to affect appreciably any results obtained from the other divisions. District No. 8 includes Prince Edward island. There is a small quantity of early fruit grown here for export, which may increase somewhat in the near fu- ture, but is not enough at present to appreciably affect the market. This dis- trict still imports winter fruit for home consumption. District No. 9 includes the valley of the Eraser from Lytton southward, the lower coast line and the Island of Van- couver in British Columbia. This is a mild and moist climate, favorable to fruit growing, which is carried on under very different conditions from those prevailing in District No. 10. District No. 10 includes the interior valleys of British Columbia, which have a comparatively dry, warm climate. Irri- gation is required in many of these val- leys, and it is, therefore, desirable that they should be grouped together, inas- much as, though they differ among them- selves slightly, yet, for commercial pur- poses, the fruit is similar. 700 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Districts Nos. 9 and 10 will become in the near future much more important factors in estimating the total crop of the Dominion. A. C. McNeill, Chief, Fruit Division. J. A. RUDDICK, Commissioner. Department of Agriculture, Fruit Division, Canada. Fruit Growing in British Columbia ■ Fruit growing in British Columbia is subject to most of the conditions that prevail in the northwestern part of the United States. It is farther north and, where there is no protection from the coast breezes, the temperature is colder, and, therefore, in the unprotected regions, fruits cannot be successfully grown for commercial purposes. However, there are sections where the very finest qualities of winter apples may be grown commer- cially, and the lands in these districts are destined to be of great value. We quote the following from W. E. Scott, of the Department of Agriculture, Victoria, B. C: The Province may be roughly divided for horticultural purposes into four types or sets of conditions, which are briefly described. District No. 1 — Southern half of Van- couver island and adjacent islands, with a rainfall of approximately 30 inches. This district is very well adapted for all small fruits, and is par excellence a pear country. The earlier varieties of apples and a few winter kinds do very well, also the preserving varieties of cherries. Plums, prunes and sweet cherries also yield enormous crops. District No. 2 — Lower mainland, with a rainfall of approximately 60 inches. This is essentially a district suited for small fruits and dairying. In some parts, apples and pears do well, but only those which are least susceptible to scab should be planted. District No. 3 — The interior valleys of the Province, where irrigation is neces- sary. These valleys are noted for the ex- cellent quality of apples which they grow. Peaches are also grown commercially, and are successful in some parts. Pears and other fruits do well, but I would empha- size these districts particularly for apple growing. District No. 4 — Interior valleys where irrigation is not necessary. Some of the valleys in the interior of British Columbia grow an excellent quality of fruit without irrigation, though, as a rule, better results can be obtained, if water is available when required. In the Kootenay valley the quality of the fruit is excellent, and it is also noted for its long-keeping quality. Leading Commercial Varieties Grown in British Columbia Apples — Yellow Transparent, Duchess of Oldenburg, Wealthy, Gravenstein, Mcin- tosh Red, Jonathan, Spitzenburg, Yellow Newtown Pippin, Northern Spy, Wagener, Rome Beauty, Golden, King of Tompkins County. Pears — Bartlett, Louise Bonne de Jer- sey, Dr. Jules Guyot, Beurre Clairgeau, Beurre d'Anjou, Flemish Beauty, Beurre Hardy, Winter Nelis. Crab Apples — Transcendent, Hyslop. Cherries — (Sweet) Royal Ann, Bing, Lambert, Winsdor; (Preserving) Olivette and English Morello. Plums — Peach Plum, Bradshaw, Quack- enboss. Grand Duke, Black Diamond, Pond's Seedling, Yellow Egg, Italian Prune. Peaches — Triumph, Alexandra, Yellow St. John, Early Crawford, Elberta, Belle of Georgia. Strawberries — Magoon, Sharpless, Pax- ton, British Queen, Royal Sovereign. Rasp b erries — C uthbert. CANADA 701 > >, J3 1 ■§ e s ^. 1 s 0.50 a « »>^ g m s i|l Hit ) Shusw ) Upper ) Lower ) Similk r, m " u > > s §, S 2 S X y ^ a y c " CD ^ » It c - - " "■ o u a ■>= * 702 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE U A a CR A sc p o hi e O S « (4 H a a s p^ W £? OJO RS o Si^- ^S SR sg pq Moo .^- Q P>:< Sjo" So SO coo SS ^Si «§ nS CO 'S, 25 a -^. So- M^. eS a rt S3 i-s JJ ^S ma ^0 f>- o 13 -H PQ §0 feo Is 5s 0 « m ^Z ^« nQ t- 11 03 !><§ m 11 11 =«s Q >> . J30 iJo 0300 1^ So o^ s^ JO So ^" 30 •50 go Qo Mo mO jao iio a IN So- T30 o ei :B'^ -So ^ c^ -r 5;3^ rt ffl^- M fl ^ w fl "2 i " So s a3 oi oa 5 .^ - - o a o s -^ . 03 Ol S w ii r-i (N I^; M CANADA 703 Export Fruit Packages, Etc., in British Columbia Inside Measurements. Size of Box, etc., Inches Average Weight (Net) Remarks Apples Crab Apples . . 10 X 11 X 20 411b. 501b. 40 1b. 46-48 lb. 17-21 lb. 10 X 11 X 20 (apple) Xhe half aoole box i.s nl^n usArl r>n 18M X 11 X 83/^ (pear) the Lower Mainland. As used in Upper Country; half pear box and peach box (20 lb.) also sometimes used. Pears Peaches. . 18J4xllx8M 18j|x 11^x4 18J^ X 11% x4i^ 18M X 11% x4J^ Plums .... 15% X 15% x4% 20-22 lb. 20-25 lb. 19-20 lb. 8M-9 lb. 14 1b. 24 1b. 161b. 4-basket crate Prunes Shipped largely in peach boxes. 4 basket crate. Sour cherries (4-basket crate), equals 16-18 lb. Sour cherries (special pack), equals 24 lb. Size of crate, 16% x 23% x 5%. Size of crate, 16% x 23% x 6%. As for strawberries Apricots Cherries 15%xl5%x4K 18ji x 9 x 2% Raspberries . . Strawberries . Loganberries. Currants 2-5 quart carton (24 to 1 crate) ; size of carton, 5% x 5% x 1 . . 4-5 quart carton (24 to 1 crate) ; size of carton, 5% x 5% x 8. . 2-5 quart carton (24 to 1 crate) Grapes Rhubarb Cantaloupes. . 6-quart basket (approximately 20xl5%x7% 12 x 11^x20% ) 401b. Six 6-quart baskets reckoned as 100 lb. by the Express Co. Tomatoes. . . 18% X 11% x5. . . 23 1b. Cabbage 25x23x18 Lettuce 28% X 16x12 Horticulture in Nova Scotia The horticultural industry of Nova Scotia is generally supposed to be carried on chiefly in a small section of the west- ern part of the Province. While it is true that the present production of orchard fruits is largely confined to the Annapolis, Cornwallis and adjacent valleys, there are many other parts of the Province where these fruits can be grown, and where small fruits and market garden crops can be as successfully grown as in the so- called orchard district. The nearness of many of these places to mining towns and manufacturing centers gives them the advantage of a local market where fresh garden products find a ready sale at good prices. In such localities intensive meth- ods on small areas often bring surpris- ingly large profits. Strawberries and bush fruits, asparagus, beans, celery, lettuce, rhubarb, peas, tomatoes, roots and early potatoes are some of the crops which have been found profitable in this kind of farming. It is probable that a history of horticulture written for the Province a quarter of a century or more hence will have to include a large reference to this industry in these other counties. But, in the meantime, fruit growing is developed to such a greater extent in the Annapolis valley that these articles, more especially insofar as they are historical, apply largely to this part of the Province. If, however, the same principles which have made fruit growing in Kings and ad- joining counties successful were applied in the other counties of the Province, the industry would become much more ex- tensive than at present. The following articles are accordingly commended to all citizens of Nova Scotia, whether living 704 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE within or without the Annapolis and nearby valleys. For the last 30 years the production of fruit from the orchards of Nova Scotia has been steadily increasing. The yearly income from the sale of fruit exported now amounts to about $1,500,000. Con- sidering the number and extent of the young orchards just coming into bearing, there seems every reason to believe that the future rate of increase will be still more rapid, and that the annual returns for the years immediately succeeding 1910 will probably exceed $2,000,000. The business of fruit growing in Nova Scotia offers an opportunity for the investment of capital as safe as that afforded by any business in the Province. The best fruit growers are constantly trying to understand and to reduce to practice the principles of horticultural science. With these men annual cultiva- tion of orchard lands is the rule. Cover crops are grown. Stable manure, com- mercial fertilizers, or both, are yearly applied. Fruit trees are so pruned as to admit the air and sunlight to the growing fruit, to remove weak and dying or in- terfering branches and to encourage and maintain a healthy, continuous growth of the tree. Three or more sprayings with a poisoned fungicide are given each year to control insect pests and fungous dis- eases. Formerly Bordeaux mixture was the only fungicide used, but lately the lime-sulphur wash has been tried by some of the best orchardists with apparently good results. This mixture was first brought into use in orchards to combat the San Jose scale. It was soon found, however, that, besides being an insecti- cide, it had an important fungicidal value and, though the dreaded scale has not yet made its appearance in Nova Scotia, the lime-sulphur wash is being used both as a dormant and a summer spray. It is important to notice that in start- ing an orchard the returns are far more remote than in other lines of farming. Under the ordinary method of treatment, an apple orchard gives little, if any, in- come during the first 10 years. There is. however, an annually accruing value in the growth of the trees, which more than offsets the expenses incurred in their care. Almost all the bearing orchards in the fruit district today were grown while the owners were engaged in other kinds of farming. But when the profits of orcharding became apparent, this branch of agricultural industry took first place. While other lines of farming are now secondary to orcharding in the fruit district, they are nevertheless of consid- erable importance in providing a source of income until the young orchard comes into bearing, paying expenses during years of poor crops or low prices, or pro- viding a means for using the product of natural hay lands, and thus supplying manure for the orchard. The raising of small fruits, market gardening, dairying, beef or poultry raising, or other branches of agriculture to which the farm may be best suited, provides an excellent side line to orcharding. In years of ordinarily good crops of fruit, about seven-eighths of the mar- ketable apples produced in Nova Scotia find a sale in foreign countries. The chief market is in Great Britain, although there is now a growing trade with New- foundland, the West Indies, and South Africa. Our proximity to the British market and the comparative cheapness of water transportation give Nova Scotian growers an advantage over their compet- itors. The varieties of apples generally grown in England are found to succeed well here, and our growers aim to secure such varieties as are popular with the British consumer. The fruit industry, however, has now reached a stage in which the proper vari- eties of trees to plant, the proper care of the growing trees, and the handling of the fruit are fairly well understood. The next step in the natural development of the industry is now being taken in the formation of co-operative associations of fruit growers for the marketing of fruit. The proper marketing is as important as the growing of fruit. Without organiza- tion the producers are at the mercy of the transportation companies and of deal- CANADA 705 ers at home and abroad, who are gener- ally understood to be combined and well organized. The result is that the amount received by the producer of the fruit is often less than half the amount paid by the consumer. To secure their share of the return from the industry, the pro- ducers must be as well organized as are the men with whom they deal. Ten co- operative associations have already been formed in the fruit-producing district of Nova Scotia, and the organization of these into one central association has now been effected. The following articles from successful horticulturists give some idea of the profit derived from orcharding and gar- dening in Nova Scotia. They also, to an extent, describe the methods by which these results have been obtained. While not by any means exhaustive in their treatment of the subject, they touch upon all the operations of importance in con- nection with fruit growing, and will be found instructive, suggestive and most encouraging. P. J. Shaw, (Annual Report Secretary of Agriculture, N. S.. 1910.) Export Figures from 1880 to 1910 1880-188.5 23,920 1885-1890 83,249 1890-189.5 118,552 1895-1900 259,200 1900-1905 330,406 1903-1910 482,298 The prices have ranged at from $2 to $2.25 per barrel. Fifty Per Cent Increase From the above figures we observe that the average export of the last five years has been over 20 times that of the same period 25 years ago. Also that, though the increase for the first 10 years of our export business was greater than the last 10 years, yet the increase for the last three five-year periods has been approxi- mately even, and shows the export of each period to be about 50 per cent more than the previous one. Four periods out of the six show approximately this in- crease. It is estimated by the railway authori- ties that during the last few years quite 150,000 barrels per year have been con- 2—4 sumed in the Province, which should be added to the above 482,298 to show our actual production during the last five years. There is little doubt that the quantity used in our Province during the last 15 years has increased in equal pro- portion to our export. Ralph S. Eaton, Kentville, N. S. (In Annual Report of Secretary of Agriculture, N. S., for 1910.) FRUITS OF ONTARIO When the first fruit trees were planted in Ontario, probably about 150 years ago, the settlers had no reliable information to guide them in selecting varieties or in caring for the trees after they were planted. But the experience of these early settlers was taken advantage of by their descendants who, with the addi- tional knowledge possessed, were able to make some progress, although scattered as they were in those early times with- out good means of intercourse. The dis- semination of information from one to another and to the new settlers who were coming in was slow until the railways were built. Then fruit growing became much more general, as trees could be easily transported from one part of the Province to another. In 1859 a few en- thusiastic horticulturists organized the Ontario Fruit Growers' Association. Meet- ings were held in different parts of the Province, and the people were urged to plant more fruit. This organization has, for the past 47 years, by its meetings, annual reports, the Canadian Horticul- turist, and in many other ways, done very much to bring about the present develop- ment in the fruit industry of Ontario. Realizing that more definite information was needed to guide fruit growers in the planting of varieties and the culture of fruits, the association in 1893 urged upon the government the importance of estab- lishing fruit experiment stations through- out the Province. The idea received the approval of the government, and in 1894 four stations were established, this num- ber being increased to 13 in the course of a few years. To these were sent many varieties of fruits, which were tested and 706 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE reported upon each year by those in charge of the stations. As these experi- menters were all practical fruit growers, and in most cases had made a specialty of some kind of fruit, much valuable in- formation regarding varieties and their culture was accumulated by the depart- ment of agriculture. Tree Fruits Among what are commonly classed as the tree fruits are the apple, cherry, peach, pear, plum and quince. The Importance of the fruit interests may be fairly judged by the following fig- ures for Ontario from the Dominion cen- sus of 1901: Not Bearing Bearing Total Trees Bushels Value Acres Capital Value Apple Trees . Peach Trees Pear Trees 1,989,983 470,772 280,175 686,628 237,792 7,551,636 811,725 564,798 999,091 446,556 9,541,619 1,282,497 844,973 1,685,719 684,348 13,631,264 539,482 487,759 337,108 132,177 $3,407,815 539,482j 365,8191 252,831 297,398 228,013 38,002 $34,201,950 Plum Trees Cherry Trees 11,400,600 Total 3,665,350 10,373,806 14,039,156 15,127,790 4,863,345 266,015 45,602,550 There has been a marked increase in the number of acres planted since the 1901 census was taken, the total number of apple trees, according to the last re- port of the Ontario Bureau of Industries, being 10,201,766. THE APPLE From the Ottawa river, which bounds the Province on the east, to the Great Lakes on the west, a distance of about 500 miles, and from the St. Lawrence river and Great Lakes on the south to latitude 45 degrees, and even 46 degrees, on the north, a distance of about 280 miles, there are many flourishing com- mercial apple orchards. These produce annually an average ci'Op of about 35,000,- 000 bushels of fruit. But apple growing is not confined even to this area, for scattered here and there over the newer parts of Ontario almost up to the Mani- toba boundary are trees which are bear- ing good apples and supplying the settler with fruit for home consumption. Owing to the material difference in cli- matic conditions between the extreme southern and the northern parts of the Province, some varieties of apples are more adapted to certain sections than others, not only on account of their vary- ing degrees of hardiness, but because some kinds produce better fruit in cer- tain sections than in others. Further- more, as apples grown in the southern parts of the Province do not keep as well as those grown in the northern sections, the fruit matures earlier, and hence does not come into keen competition with, perhaps, the same varieties from other sources. Each part of the Province, therefore, where apples are grown can produce fruit which has a fair chance of commanding the highest price on the market. As these climatic conditions cannot be changed, it behooves fruit growers in the southwestern peninsula to make a specialty of growing fruit for the early markets, for there is no other sec- tion which can compete so favorably in the production and sale of early apples, especially for the rapidly growing market in the Northwest. Varieties Recommended General Lists — After testing a large number of varieties of fruit at the vari- ous fruit stations, the board of control has decided upon the following as the most desirable for general planting. District Lists — The district lists given by the various experimenters show vari- CANADA 707 eties especially adapted to the sections represented by their stations. The term Commercial is intended to in- clude the varieties most desirable for market purposes, and the term Domestic those most desirable for home uses, either cooking or dessert. These lists are given, as far as possible, in the order of ripening. It is realized that there are many vari- eties not included in these lists which may do well under special conditions, yet which are generally not considered as desirable as those mentioned. General List of the Most Valuable Vari- eties for Market Approved by the Board of Control Summer AsTRACHAN — Adapted to all sections ex- cept the extreme north. Duchess — Adapted to all sections. Fall Gravenstein — Adapted to all sections except the St. Lawrence river and other northerly portions of the Province. V Wealthy — Particularly valuable for northern sections. ' Alexaxder — Especially for northern districts. •- McIntosh — Adapted especially to the St. Lawrence river district, but can be grown over a much wider area. ^ Fameuse — Adapted especially to the St. Lawrence river district, but succeeds well over a much wider area. Blenheim — Adapted to all sections ex- cept the St. Lawrence river district and northerly portions of the Province. Winter King — Adapted only to the best apple sections, and succeeds best when top grafted on hardy stocks. HuBBARDSTON — Adapted to the best apple sections. Greening — Adapted to the best apple sections. Baldwin — Succeeds best on clay land, and is adapted to the best apple districts. Spy — Adapted to the best apple dis- tricts, but can be grown with success farther north by top-grafting on hardy stocks. This is also a good method of bringing it into early bearing. Ontario — An early and abundant bear- er, but short-lived. Recommended as a filler among long-lived trees. Adapted to same districts as Northern Spy, which it somewhat resembles. Stark — Adapted to best apple districts. Varieties Especially Adapted to Home Use Summer Transparent — Adapted to all sections. Primate — Adapted to best apple sec- tions. Sweet Bough — Adapted to best apple sections. Duchess — Adapted to all sections. Fall Chenango — Adapted to best apple sec- tions. Gravenstein — Adapted to best apple sections. Wealthy — Especially adapted to north- ern sections. McIntosh — Especially adapted to north- ern sections. Fameuse — Especially adapted to north- ern sections. Blenheim — Adapted to best apple sec- tions. Winter King — Adapted to best apple sections. Should be top-grafted. Wagener — Adapted to best apple sec- tions. SwAYziE — Adapted to all sections ex- cept most northerly. Greening — Adapted to best apple dis- tricts. Tolman — Adapted to best apple dis- tricts. Spy — Adapted to best apple districts, but will succeed farther north if top- grafted. Mann — Adapted to best apple districts, but will succeed farther north if top- grafted. Hardy Varieties Recommended for Sec- tions North of Latitude 46 Degrees Summer Yellow Transparent, Charlamoff. 708 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Fall and Winter Duchess, Wealthy, Hibernal, Longfield, Patten, Whitney, Hyslop, Scott Winter. Crabs Suitable for the Whole of the ProTince Whitney — A large crab of high qual- ity, suitable for planting in the extreme north where other apples will not suc- ceed. May be used for dessert or cooking. Mabtha — An early crab of fair quality. Transcendent — Yellowish crab, season early autumn. Hyslop — Dark, rich red crab, of late season, quality only fair. District Lists Recommended by the Experimenters Niagara District Linus Woolveeton Grimsby, Ont. Commercial — Astrachan, Gravenstein, Duchess, Alexander, Blenheim, Cranberry Pippin, Hubbardston, King, Greening, Baldwin, Spy. Domestic — Early Harvest, Gravenstein, Sweet Bough, Chenango, Duchess, Shia- wassee, Fall Pippin, Fameuse, Swayzie, Wagener, Yellow Bellflower, Spitzenburg, Tolman. Bay of Quinte District W. H. Dempsey Trenton, Ont. Commercial — Duchess, Gravenstein, Trenton, Alexander, Wealthy, Fameuse, Mcintosh, King, Greening, Baldwin, On- tario, Seek-no-Further, Spy, Tolman, Ben Davis, Stark. Domestic — Benoni, Primate, Graven- stein, Fameuse, Mcintosh, Grimes, Green- ing, Ontario, Spy, Tolman, Swayzie. Bnrlington District A. W. Peart Burlington, Ont. Commercial — Astrachan, Duchess, Wealthy, Ribston, Blenheim, King, Green- ing, Baldwin Spy. Domestic — Astrachan, Sweet Bough, Gravenstein, Wagener, Seek-no-Further, Golden Russet. Laie Simcoe District G. C. Caston Craighurst, Ont. Commercial — Duchess, Peerless, Alex- ander, Wolf River, Blenheim, Pewaukee, Stark, and the following if top-worked on hardy stocks: Greening, King, On- tario, Baldwin, Spy. Domestic — Astrachan, Primate, St. Law- rence, Fameuse, Mcintosh, King, Spy. Lake Hnron District A. E. Sherrington Walkerton, Ont. Commercial — Astrachan, Duchess, Wealthy, Fameuse, Mcintosh, Blenheim, Greening, Baldwin, Spy, Golden Russet, Ben Davis. Domestic — Transparent, Astrachan, Duchess, Mcintosh, Grimes, Blenheim, King, Spy, Golden Russet. St. Lawrence District Harold Jones Maitland, Ont. Commercial — Duchess, Alexander, Wolf River, Scarlet Pippin, Fameuse, Mcintosh, Baxter, Milwaukee, Golden Russet. Domestic — Transparent, Brockville, Beauty, Scarlet Pippin, Fameuse, Mcin- tosh, Blue Pearmain, Golden Russet, Yel- low Bellflower. Algona District Charles Young Richard's Landing, Ont. Commercial and Domestic — Astrachan, Transparent, Duchess, Charlamoff, Gideon, Longfield, Wealthy, Scott Winter. THE PEAR The pear succeeds all over the best ap- ple districts of Ontario, but few good hardy varieties have yet been found, hence the commercial culture of the pear does not extend as far north as the apple. The principal pear orchards are found in Southern Ontario. There are many good orchards, however, along Lake Ontario as far east as the Bay of Quinte and north to the Georgian Bay. In Eastern Ontario, only a few kinds succeed, and these are not planted on a commercial scale. These hardy varieties are grown to a limited extent for home use as far north as latitude 45 degrees and some of the Russian pears, though inferior in quality and very subject to blight, may be grown still further north. The pear stands distant shipment well if picked at the right time, and properly CANADA 709 packed and handled in transit, and hence larger quantities are being sent to distant markets every year, and as a rule good prices are obtained for the fruit. Yarieties Becommended General List Approyed by the Board of Control Commercial — Giffard, Clapp, Bartlett, Boussock, Flemish (hardy, subject to spot), Howell, Louise, Duchess, Bosc, Clairgeau, Anjou, KiefEer. Domestic — Summer Doyenne, Giffard, Bartlett, Flemish (for the north), Sheld- on, Seckel, Bosc, Anjou, Lawrence, Jose- phine, "Winter Nelis. District lists Becommended by the Experimenters Niagara District Linus Woolverton Grimsby, Out. Commercial — Chambers, Wilder, Gif- fard, Clapp, Bartlett, Hardy, Bosc, How- ell, Louise, Duchess, Pitmaston, Clair- geau, Anjou, Easter Beurre. Domestic — Doyenne, Manning, Gif- fard, Boussock, Rostiezer, Marguerite, Sheldon, Seckel, Triumph, Ritson, Louise, Hardy, Diel, Anjou, Lawrence. Burlington District A. W. Peart Burlington, Ont. Commercial — Wilder, Clapp, Bartlett, Boussock, Louise, Duchess (dwarf), An- jou, Kieffer, Winter Nelis, Easter Beurre. Domestic — Wilder, Bartlett, Louise, Anjou, Winter Nelis. Bay of Quinte District W. H. Dempsey Trenton, Ont. Commercial and Domestic — Giffard, Tyson, Clapp, Boussock, Hardy, White Doyenne, Dempsey, Bosc, Clairgeau, Goodale, Lawrence, Josephine. St. Lawrence District Harold Jones Maitland, Ont. Domestic — Clapp, Flemish, Ritson. THE PLUM The plum has a wider range over the Province of Ontario than the pear or peach, this fruit being a native of the Province and found as far north as Mani- toba. There are three large groups into which the plums may be divided here, namely, the European, Japanese, and American. In the European or domestica group are included most of the varieties which are grown in Ontario commercial- ly. These plums are not as hardy as the natives, hence their profitable culture is limited to almost exactly the same dis- tricts as the pear, the commercial or- chards being mostly found in Southern Ontario, the Georgian Bay District, and along Lake Ontario west of the Bay of Quinte. A few of the hardiest produce crops occasionally in Eastern Ontario and up to about latitude 45 degrees in Cen- tral Ontario, but they are too uncertain to be grown for profit. The Japanese plums are grown over practically the same area as the Euro- pean, but the fruit buds average a little more tender. In the American group are included the Americana and Nigra plums, the former being derived from a hardy United States species and the latter from the native Canadian plum. The varieties of this group are quite hardy and can be grown commercially where the European and Japanese plums will not succeed, and while not so good in quality as the others, good prices are at present obtained for what are produced. Plums are not being so extensively planted at present as other large fruits, since during recent years the markets have several times been glutted, result- ing in low prices. The demand for plums is, however, always large, and the excel- lent market which is opening up in the Northwest will probably in the future pre- vent, in a great measure, this over-sup- ply. The cultural directions for the apple will apply in most particulars to the plum, which will succeed on almost all kinds of well drained soils, although it does best on the heavier clay loams. Trees one or two years of age should be planted about eighteen feet apart each way, the soil having been thoroughly 710 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE prepared beforehand. The trees should be severely headed back when planted, and future pruning will consist in form- ing a well shaped open head. As some varieties make exceptionally strong growth it is a good practice when the trees are young to prune the young growth back about one-half each spring to avoid splitting. When the trees begin to bear little pruning is necessary, as they usually bear so heavily that the trees do not make much growth annual- ly. Orchards should be kept thoroughly cultivated, and cover crops are recom- mended as for the apple, cherry, peach and pear. The fruit should be picked when it is well colored but still firm. Varieties Recommended General list Approved by the Board of Control COMMEKCIAL AND DOMESTIC American — These are extremely hardy and are desirable where the European and Japanese varieties cannot be grown: Aitken, Cheney, Bixby, Mankato, Wolf, Hawkeye, Stoddard. Etjropean — Bradshaw, Imperial Gage, Gueii, Shipper Pride, Lombard (liable to overbear, requires thinning), Quacken- boss, Yellow Egg, Grand Duke, Coe, Reine Claude (one of the best for canning). Japanese — These are apparently quite as hardy as the European varieties: Red June, Abundance, Burbank, Chabot, Sat- suma (red fleshed, desirable for canning). District Lists Recommended by the Experimenters Lake Huron District A. E. Sherrington Walkerton, Out. Commercial and Domestic — Red June, Ogon, Burbank, Bradshaw, Imperial Gage, Gueii, Shipper Pride, Victoria, Quacken- boss. Yellow Egg, Monarch, Grand Duke, Satsuma. Georgian Bay District John Mitchell Clarksburg Commercial and Domestic — Red June, Burbank, Washington, Bradshaw, Imper- ial Gage, Quackenboss, Arch Duke, Dia- mond, Monarch, Yellow Egg, Coe, Sat- suma, Reine Claude. Burlington District A. W. Peart Burlington, Ont. Commercial — European — Bradshaw, Imperial Gage, Lombard, Yellow Egg, Glass, Reine Claude. Japanese — Red June, Abundance, Bur- bank, Chabot, Satsuma. Domestic — Abundance, Saunders, Brad- shaw, Imperial Gage, Smith Orleans, Lom- bard, Yellow Egg, Satsuma, Reine Claude. ]Niagara District Linus Woolverton Grimsby, Ont. Commercial — Red June, Burbank, Brad- shaw, Chabot, Gueii, Coe, Quackenboss, Satsuma, Reine Claude. Domestic — Abundance, Washington, Yellow Egg, Shropshire, Quackenboss, Satsuma, Reine Claude. St. Lawrence District Harold Jones Maitland, Ont. Domestic — Note — The European and Japanese varieties are only recommended for the home garden in the St. Lawrence Dis- trict, as they have not proved entirely hardy nor very productive. American — Milton, Whitaker, Hammer. European — Gueii, Lombard, Shipper Pride, Glass. Japanese — Red June, Burbank. THE GRAPE There is no more popular fruit than the grape, and, owing to the rapid in- crease in population during recent years, the demand for grapes is constantly grow- ing. For this reason the planting of grapes, which was in a large measure suspended for a few years, is steadily in- creasing, many vineyards now being es- tablished annually. The grape requires a comparatively dry hot season for the development of good flavor and the perfect ripening of the fruit, and as most of the cultivated varieties will not stand very low temper- atures unless protected, the grape sue- CANADA 711 ceeds best in the most southern parts of the Province, the commercial vineyards being confined almost entirely to the Niagara peninsula, and to the district bordering Lake Erie. The grape can, however, be grown successfully over a much wider area than this, and where the summer temperature is fairly high and spring and early autumn frosts are rare, large quantities of grapes are grown for home consumption. Hence the early varieties of this fruit may be ripened pretty generally over the Province as far north as latitude 45 degrees and prob- ably further. Varieties Eecommended General List Approved by the Board of Control Commercial and Domestic — Black — Moore, Campbell, Worden, Con- cord, Wilder. Red — Delaware, Lindley, Agawam, Ver- gennes. White — Niagara, Diamond. For Northern Sections — Black — Champion, Moore, Campbell, Worden, Wilder. Red — Moyer, Brighton, Delaware, Lind- ley. White — Winchell, Diamond. District Lists Recommended by the Experimenters Wentworth District M. Pettit Winona, Out. Commercial — Black — Champion, Campbell, Worden, Concord. Red — Delaware, Lindley, Agawam, Ver- gennes, Catawaba. White — Niagara, Diamond. Niagara District Linus Woolverton Grimshy, Ont. Domestic — Moyer, Campbell, Worden, Delaware, Lindley, Brighton, Wilder, Aga- wam, Requa. BUSH FRUITS In Bush Fruits are included the Black- berry, Currant, Gooseberry, and Rasp- berry. These fruits, while not being of quite so much importance from a com- mercial standpoint as the tree fruits, are grown and consumed in very large quan- tities in Ontario, and as they are used in many ways by housekeepers there will always be a demand for them. They can be grown between the tree fruits to ad- vantage while the latter are young and hence often augment the revenue of the fruit grower materially before the tree fruits come into full bearing. Some idea of the large quantities of bush fruits which are grown will be ob- tained from the Dominion census statis- tics for 1901, where it is stated that there were at that time 8,116 acres devoted to small fruits in Ontario, on which were produced about 16,000,000 quarts valued at $811,000.00. The strawberry is includ- ed in the above estimate. The present area devoted to small fruits is estimated at 10,000 acres. THE BLACKBERRY The blackberry is not grown so large- ly in Ontario as it might be. It is one of the most profitable fruits to grow where it succeeds well, but as the crop is rather uncertain except in Southern Ontario and in localities farther north where it is protected by a deep snow fall, its range of successful culture is somewhat limit- ed. Where there is not danger of winter killing, a well drained clay loam is prob- ably the best for the blackberry, as it is cooler and more retentive of moisture than lighter soils. The blackberry must have plenty of soil moisture when the fruit is ripening, otherwise but little of the crop will develop. Further north, where hardiness is of greater considera- tion than conservation of moisture, the poorer and warmer soils are preferred, as the blackberry on these soils does not make as rampant a growth and hence ripens its wood better. Varieties Recommended General List Approved by the Board of Control Agawam, Snyder, Eldorado, and for southern sections, Kittatinny. 712 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE District Lists Recommended by the Experimenters Burlington District A. W. Peabt Burlington, Ont. Commercial and Domestic — Snyder, Briton, Triumph, Agawam, Taylor. Lake Simcoe District G. C. Caston Craighurst, Ont. Commercial and Domestic — Agawam, Eldorado. THE CURRANT The currant is a very hardy fruit and for this reason can be grown with suc- cess all over the Province of Ontario, and as fair results are obtained without high culture, almost everyone who has a gard- en grows currants. Like all other fruits, however, the currant becomes most profit- able when it is given good care. The currant is a moisture loving fruit, hence for profit it should be planted in a cool, moist, but well drained soil. It also requires rich soil, hence as a rule the best is a good clay loam which is re- tentive of moisture and cooler than sandy loam. The soil should be thoroughly pre- pared for currants before planting. One year old plants from cuttings if strong will give good satisfaction, although two year old plants are not too old. They should be planted in rows about six feet apart, and from four to five feet apart in the rows, the wide distance being more satisfactory for the strong growing vari- eties and especially black currants. Fall planting is best for currants, as the buds start very early in the spring and should these develop before they can be planted, their future growth will be checked. They can, however, be planted in the spring with success. The plants should be set a little deeper than they were in the nursery, and the soil well pressed against the roots. Thorough cultivation should follow to promote as much growth as possible, but it should be shallow, as the currant roots are near the surface. The following spring the currants will need some pruning to give them a shape- ly open head, the bush when well shaped "having from five to seven main branches well distributed to avoid crowding. The fruit of red currants is formed from spurs on wood two years old, while the fruit of black currants is borne on wood of the previous year. Currants should be pruned annually to get the best results. Varieties Recommended General List Approved by the Board of Control Black — Black Victoria, Champion, Lee, Naples, Saunders. Red — Cherry, Fay, Pomona, Red Cross, Victoria, Wilder. White — White Grape. District Lists Recommended by the Experimenters Burlington District A. W. Peart Burlington, Ont. Commercial — Black — Lee, Naples, Saunders. Red — Cherry, Fay, North Star, Prince Albert, Victoria, Wilder. White — White Grape. Lake Huron District A. E. Sherrington Walkerton, Ont. Black — Champion, Naples, Saunders. Red — Pomona, Red Cross. THE GOOSEBERRY The gooseberry and the currant are the two hardiest bush fruits which are cul- tivated, and the gooseberry, like the cur- rant, succeeds in all parts of the Province, although the hardy gooseberries are con- fined to the varieties derived from the native species and to crosses between the native and the European. The Euro- pean varieties are only grown success- fully in favored locations as in most places they are very subject to mildew. The gooseberry, like the currant, re- quires a cool, moist, though well drained soil to give the best results, and suffers more than almost any other fruit in a dry time. These cool, moist conditions are best obtained as a rule by planting in a well drained friable clay loam. The soil should be thoroughly prepared, as although the gooseberry will give a fine crop of fruit, even if not well cared for. CANADA 713 the size will be small. Gooseberries may be planted with success either in spring or fall, but fall planting is preferable, as growth begins early and plants usually receive a severe check if planted in the spring. Varieties Recommended General List Approxed by the Board of Control Pearl, Downing, Red Jacket. White- smith is one of the best English varieties, but is almost valueless on some soils and in some localities owing to mildew. THE EASPBERKT Next to the strawberry, the raspberry is the most popular bush fruit grown in Ontario, and as it follows the former in season the consumer is well supplied with these two fruits most of the sum- mer. The raspberry being a native of Ontario, is hardy in almost all parts of the Province, hence it is cultivated over a very wide area. Like the other bush fruits, the rasp- berry does best when grown in a cool, moist, but well drained soil. "While this soil should be of good quality, if it is very rich in nitrogen the growth may be too rank and in some localities the canes on this account are more liable to winter injury. The best success is usually ob- tained with a good clay loam, although the raspberry will do fairly well in most kinds of soil. The preparation of the land should be the same as for other bush fruits. Varieties Recommended General List Approved by the Board of Control Black — Hilborn, Older, Gregg, Smith Giant. PuKPLE — Columbian, Shaffer. Red — Marlboro, Herbert, Cuthbert. White — Golden Queen. District Lists Recommended by the Experimenters Lake Huron District A. E. Sherrington Walkerton, Ont. Commercial and Domestic — Black — Hilborn, Conrath, Older. Purple — Columbian, Shaffer. Red — Marlboro, Herbert, Cuthbert. THE STRAWBERRY The strawberry is the most popular fruit cultivated in Ontario. This is doubt- less due in part to the intrinsic value of the strawberry itself, which is one of the most delicious of fruits, but it is believed that the popularity of the strawberry comes largely from the fact that it can be grown by almost every one, as, unlike most fruits, very little land is required to produce sufficient for home consump- tion. Strawberries can be grown in all parts of Ontario where the soil is suitable, hence large quantities are produced and consumed annually, and owing to the dif- ference in the time of ripening between the southern and northern parts of the Province, the season is lengthened very much, and furthermore, the strawberries of one district do not come in such close competition with those from another as they would do if all ripened at the same time. Strawberries will succeed on almost any rich well drained soil, but the larg- est crops are, it is believed, produced on a friable clay loam which is retentive of moisture. It is important, however, to avoid planting strawberries where water is likely to lie at any time, as surface water is very injurious to strawberries, and if water freezes over strawberries in winter they are almost sure to be killed. Varieties Recommended Commercial — Splendid (Perfect), Bed- erwood (P.), Warfield (Imperfect), not suited to light, sandy soil, Greenville (Imp.), Williams (P.), Saunders (P.), Sample (Imp.), Irene (Imp.), Buster (Imp.). Domestic — Van Deman (P.), Splendid (P.), Excelsior (P.), Dunlap (P.), Ruby (P.), Bubach (Imp.), Irene (Imp.), Belt (P.), Lovett (P.). Note — In selecting varieties for plant- ing, perfect-flowered varieties should be included to fertilize those having imper- fect flowers. Nelson Monteith, Minister of Agriculture. ri4 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Canada Field Pea as a Cover Crop in THE Rogue River Valley. See Cover Crops under Apple. Canadian Fruit Marks Act. See Laws. Candleberry The candleberry is called also bayberry, candleberry myrtle, tallow tree and wax myrtle (Myrica cerifera) . The nuts are called candle nuts and, when put into hot water, furnish a greenish colored sub- stance waxy and oily, which, being refined, is made into candles. It grows in the wet soils of North America, near the sea- shore. The berries intended for making candles are gathered late in autumn. An- other plant belonging to the same genus, grows in Scotland, a small shrub growing a little like the myrtle or willow, of a fragrant odor and a bitter taste, and yield- ing an essential oil by distillation. It was formerly used in the north of Europe instead of hops and in some places is still so used. In Sweden and Wales it is used in dyeing and produces a yellow- ish color. Granville Lowther Canning and Preserving Fruit in the Home The common fruits, because of their low nutritive value, are not, as a rule, estimated at their real worth as food. Fruit has great dietetic value and should be used generously and wisely, both fresh and cooked. Fruits supply a variety of flavors, sugar, acids, and a necessary waste or bulky material for aiding in in- testinal movement. They are generally rich in potash and soda salts and other minerals. Most fresh fruits are cooling and refreshing. The vegetable acids have a solvent power on the nutrients and are an aid to digestion when not taken in excess. Fruit and fruit juices keep the blood in a healthy condition when the supply of fresh meat, fish, and vegetables is lim- ited and salt or smoked meats constitute the chief elements of diet. Fresh fruit is generally more appetizing and refreshing than cooked. For this reason it is often eaten in too large quantities, and fre- quently when underripe or overripe; but when of good quality and eaten in moder- ate quantities it promotes healthy intes- tinal action and rarely hurts anyone. If eaten immoderately, uncooked fruit is apt to induce intestinal disturbances. If eaten unripe, it often causes stomach and intestinal irritation; overripe, it has a tendency to ferment in the alimentary canal. Cooking changes the character and flavor of fruit, and while the product is not so cooling and refreshing as in the raw state, it can, as a rule, be eaten with less danger of causing stomach or intes- tinal trouble. If sugar be added to the cooked fruit, the nutritive value will be increased. A large quantity of sugar spoils the flavor of the fruit and is likely to make it less easily digested. Nowhere is there greater need of a gen- erous supply of fruit than on the farm, where the diet is apt to be restricted in variety because of the distance from mar- kets. Every farmer should raise a gen- erous supply of the kinds of fruit that can be grown in his locality. Wives and daughters on the farms should find pleas- ure in serving these fruits in the most healthful and tempting form. There are a large number of simple, dainty desserts that can be prepared with fruit and with- out much labor. Such desserts should leave the pie as an occasional luxury in- stead of allowing it to be considered a daily necessity. In the season when each kind of fruit is plentiful and at its best a generous supply should be canned for the season when both fruit and fresh vegetables are scarce. A great deal of the fruit should be canned with little or no sugar, that it may be as nearly as possible in the condition of fresh fruit. This is the best condition for cooking purposes. A sup- ply of glass jars does cost something, but that item of expense should be charged to future years as, with proper care, the breaking of a jar need be a rare occur- rence. If there be an abundance of grapes and small, juicy fruits, plenty of juice should be canned or bottled for re- freshing drinks throughout the year. Re- CANNING AND PRESERVING FRUIT IN THE HOME 715 member that the fruit and juice are not luxuries, but an addition to the dietary that will mean better health for the members of the family and greater econ- omy in the cost of the table. Fresh and Preseryed Fruit for the Market If the supply of fruit is greater than the family needs, it may be made a source of income by sending the fresh fruit to the market, if there is one near enough, or by preserving, canning, and making jelly for sale. To make such an enterprise a success the fruit and work must be first class. There is magic in the word "Home-made," when the pro- duct appeals to the eye and the palate; but many careless and incompetent peo- ple have found to their sorrow that this word has not magic enough to float in- ferior goods on the market. As a rule large canning and preserving establish- ments are clean and have the best appli- ances, and they employ chemists and skilled labor. The home product must be very good to compete with the attractive goods that are sent out from such estab- lishments. Yet for first class home made products there is a market in all large cities. All first class grocers have cus- tomers who purchase such goods. To secure a market, get the names of several first class grocers in some of the large towns. Write to them asking if they would be willing to try a sample of your goods. If the answer is favorable, send samples of the articles you wish to sell. In the box with the fruit inclose a list of the articles sent and the price. Write your name and address clearly. Mail a note and a duplicate list at the time you send the box. Fixing the price of the goods is important. Make it high enough to cover all expenses and give you a fair return for your labor. The expenses will be the fruit, sugar, fuel, jars, glasses, boxes, packing material, wear and tear of utensils, etc., transportation and commis- sion. The commission will probably be 20 per cent of the selling price. It may be that a merchant will find your prices are too high or too low for his trade, or he may wish to purchase the goods out- right. In any case it is essential that you estimate the full cost of the product and the value that you place on your labor. You will then be in a position to decide if the prices offered will compen- sate you for the labor and expense. Do not be tempted for the sake of a little money to deprive your family of the fruit necessary to health and pleasure. Packing and Shipping Each jar or jelly glass must be wrapped in several thicknesses of soft paper (newspapers will answer). Make pads of excelsior or hay by spreading a thick layer between the folds of newspapers. Line the bottom and sides of the box with these pads. Pack the fruit in the padded box. Fill all the spaces between the jars with the packing material. If the box is deep and a second layer of fruit is to go in, put thick pasteboard or thin boards over the first layer and set the wrapped jars on this. Fill all the spaces and cover the top with the packing material. Nail on the cover and mark clearly: GLASS. THIS SIDE UP. The great secret in packing is to fill every particle of space so that nothing can move. Principles of Canning and Preserving In the preservation of foods by canning, preserving, etc., the most essential things in the processes are the sterilization of the food and all the utensils and the seal- ing of the sterilized food to exclude all germs. Bacteria, Yeasts and Fermentation Over 100 years ago Francois Appert was the first to make practical applica- tion of the method of preserving food by putting it in cans or bottles, which he hermetically sealed. He then put the full bottles or cans in water and boiled them for more or less time, depending upon the kinds of food. In Appert's time and, indeed, until re- cent years, it was generally thought that the oxygen of the air caused the decom- position of food. Appert's theory was that the things essential to the preservation of food in this manner were the exclusion of air and the application of gentle heat, 716 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE as in the water bath, which caused a fusion of the principal constituents and ferments in such a manner that the power of the ferments was destroyed. The investigations of scientists, partic- ularly of Pasteur, have shown that it is not the oxygen of the air which causes fermentation and putrefaction, but bac- teria and other microscopic organisms. Appert's theory as to the cause of the spoiling of food was incorrect, but his method of preserving it by sealing and cooking was correct, and the world owes him a debt of gratitude. In their investigations scientists have found that if food is perfectly sterilized and the opening of the jar or bottle plugged with sterilized cotton, food will not ferment, for the bacteria and yeasts to which such changes are due cannot pass through the cotton. This method cannot be conveniently followed with large jars. Bacteria and yeasts exist in the air, in the soil, and on all vegetable and animal substances, and even in the living body, but although of such universal occur- rence, the true knowledge of their nature and economic importance has only been gained during the last 40 years. There are a great many kinds of these micro-organisms. Some do great harm, but it is thought that the greater part of them are beneficial rather than injurious. Bacteria are one-celled and so small they can only be seen by aid of a micro- scope. The process of reproduction is simple and rapid. The bacterium becomes constricted, divides, and finally there are two cells instead of one. Under favorable conditions each cell divides, and so rapid is the work that it has been estimated that one bacterium may give rise, within 24 hours to 17,000,000 of similar organ- isms. The favorable conditions for growth are moisture, warmth and proper food. Yeasts, which are also one-celled organ- isms, grow less rapidly. A bud develops, breaks off, and forms a new yeast plant. Some yeasts and some kinds of bacteria produces spores. Spores, like the dried seeds of plants, may retain their vitality for a long time, even when exposed to conditions which kill the parent organ- ism. Yeasts and nearly all bacteria require oxygen, but there are species of the latter that seem to grow equally well without it, so that the exclusion of air, which, of course, contains oxygen, is not always a protection, if one of the anaerobic bac- teria, as the kinds are called which do not require oxygen, is sealed in the can. Spoiling of food is caused by the de- velopment of bacteria or yeasts. Certain chemical changes are produced as shown by gases, odors and flavors. Bacteria grow luxuriantly in foods con- taining a good deal of nitrogenous mate- rial, if warmth and moisture are present. Among foods rich in nitrogenous sub- stances are all kinds of meat, fish, eggs, peas, beans, lentils, milk, etc. These foods are difficult to preserve on account of the omnipresent bacteria. This is seen in warm, muggy weather, when fresh meat, fish, soups, milk, etc., spoil quickly. Bacteria do not develop in substances containing a large percentage of sugar, but they grow rapidly in a suitable wet substance which contains a small per- centage of sugar. Yeasts grow very read- ily in dilute solutions containing sugars in addition to some nitrogenous and min- eral matters. Fruits are usually slightly acid and in general do not support bac- terial growth, and so it comes about that canned fruits are more commonly fer- mented by yeasts than by bacteria. Some vegetable foods have so much acid and so little nitrogenous substance that very few bacteria or yeasts attack them. Lemons, cranberries and rhubarb belong to this class. Temperature is an important factor in the growth of bacteria and yeasts. There are many kinds of these organisms, and each kind grows best at a certain temper- ature, some at a very low one and others at one as high as 125 degrees Fahren- heit, or more. However, most kinds of bacteria are destroyed if exposed for 10 or 15 minutes to the temperature of boil- ing water (212 degrees Fahrenheit); but, if the bacteria are spore producers, cook- CANNING AND PRESERVING FRUIT IN THE HOME 717 ing must be continued for an hour or more to insure their complete destruc- tion. Generally speaking, in order to kill the spores the temperature must be high- er than that of boiling water, or the article to be preserved must be cooked for about two hours at a temperature of 212 degrees Fahrenheit, or a shorter time at a higher temperature under pressure. Yeasts and their spores are, however, more easily destroyed by heat than bac- teria spores. Hence, fruits containing little nitrogenous material are more easily protected from fermentation than nitrogenous foods in which in general fermentation is caused by bacteria. Of course it is not possible to know what kinds of organisms are in the food one is about to can or bottle; but we do know that most fruits are not favorable to the growth of bacteria, and, as a rule, the yeasts which grow in fruits and fruit juices can be destroyed by cooking 10 or 15 minutes at a temperature of 212 de- grees Fahrenheit. If no living organisms are left, and the sterilization of all appli- ances has been thorough, there is no rea- son why the fruit, if properly sealed, should not keep, with but slight change of texture or flavor, for a year or longer, although canned fruits undergo gradual change and deterioration even under the most favorable conditions. When fruit is preserved with a large amount of sugar (a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit) it does not need to be hermetically sealed to protect it from bacteria and yeasts, because the thick, sugary syrup formed is not favorable to their growth. However, the self-sealing jars are much better than keeping such fruit in large receptacles, from which it is taken as needed, because molds grow freely on moist, sugary substances ex- posed to the air. Molds and Molding Every housekeeper is familiar with molds which, under favorable conditions of warmth and moisture, grow upon al- most any kind of organic material. This is seen in damp, warm weather, when molds form in a short time on all sorts of starchy foods, such as boiled potatoes, bread, mush, etc., as well as fresh, canned, and preserved fruits. Molds develop from spores which are always floating about in the air. When a spore falls upon a substance containing moisture and suitable food it sends out a fine thread, which branches and works its way over and into the attacked substance. In a short time spores are produced and the work of reproduction goes on. In the first stages molds are white or light gray and hardly noticeable; but when spores develop the growth gradu- ally becomes colored. In fact, the condi- tions of advanced growth might be likened to those of a flower garden. The threads — mycelium — might be likened to the roots of plants and the spores to the flower and seeds. Mold spores are very light and are blown about by the wind. They are a little heavier than air, and drop on shelves, tables and floor, and are easily set in motion again by the movement of a brush, duster, etc. If one of these spores drops on a jar of preserves or a tumbler of jelly, it will germinate if there be warmth and moisture enough in the storeroom. Molds do not ordinarily cause fermentation of canned foods, al- though they are the common cause of the decay of raw fruits. They are not as injurious to canned goods as are bac- teria and yeasts. They do not penetrate deeply into preserves or jellies, or into liquids or semi-liquids, but if given time they will, at ordinary room temperature, work all through suitable solid sub- stances which contain moisture. Nearly every housekeeper has seen this in the molding of a loaf of bread or cake. In the work of canning, preserving and jelly making it is important that the food shall be protected from the growth of molds as well as the growth of yeasts and bacteria. To kill mold spores food must be ex- posed to a temperature of from 150 de- grees Fahrenheit to 212 degrees Fahren- heit. After this it should be kept in a cool, dry place and covered carefully that no floating spore can find lodgment on its surface. 718 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Sterilization To sterilize a substance or thing is to destroy all life and sources of life in and about it. In following the brief outline of the structure and work of bacteria, yeasts and molds, it has been seen that damage to foods comes through the growth of these organisms on or in the food; also that if such organisms are ex- posed to a temperature of 212 degrees Fahrenheit, life will be destroyed, but that spores and a few resisting bacteria are not destroyed at a temperature of 212 degrees Fahrenheit unless exposed to it for two or more hours. Bacteria and yeasts, which are inti- mately mixed with food, are not as easily destroyed as are those on smooth sur- faces, such as the utensils and jars em- ployed in the preparation of the food. Since air and water, as well as the foods, contain bacteria and yeasts, and may contain mold spores, all utensils used in the process of preserving foods are liable to be contaminated with these organisms. For this reason all appliances, as well as the food, must be sterilized. Stewpans, spoons, strainers, etc., may be put on the fire in cold or boiling water and boiled 10 or 15 minutes. Tumblers, bottles, glass jars, and covers should be put in cold water and heated gradually to the boiling point, and then boiled for 10 or 15 minutes. The jars must be taken one at a time from the boiling water at the moment they are to be filled with the boiling food. The work should be done in a well-swept and dusted room, and the clothing of the workers aad the towels used should be clean. In canning fruits it is well to remember that the product is more satisfactory if heated gradually to the boiling point and then cooked the given time. Utensils Needed for Canning and Preserring In preserving, canning, and jelly-mak- ing, iron or tin utensils should never be used. The fruit acids attack these metals and so give a bad color and metallic taste to the products. The preserving kettles should be porcelain lined, enam- eled, or of a metal that will not form troublesome chemical combinations with fruit juices. The kettles should be broad rather than deep, as the fruit should not be cooked in deep layers. Nearly all the necessary utensils may be found in some ware not subject to chemical action. A list of the most essential articles follows: Two preserving kettles, one colander, one fine strainer, one skimmer, one ladle, one large-mouthed funnel, one wire frying basket, one wire sieve, four long-handled wooden spoons, one wooden masher, a few large pans, knives for paring fruit (plated if possible), flat-bottomed clothes boiler, wooden or willow rack to put in the bottom of the boiler, iron tripod or ring, squares of cheese cloth. In addi- tion, it would be well to have a flannel straining bag, a frame on which to hang the bag, a syrup gauge and a glass cylin- der, a fruit pricker, and plenty of clean towels. The regular kitchen pans will answer for holding and washing the fruit. Mixing bowls and stone crocks can be used for holding the fruit juice and pared fruit. When fruit is to be plunged into boiling water for a few minutes before paring, the ordinary stewpans may be employed for this purpose. Scales are a desirable article in every kitchen, as weighing is much more accu- rate than the ordinary measuring. But, knowing that a large percentage of the housekeepers do not possess scales, it has seemed wise to give all the rules in measure rather than weight. If canning is done by the oven process, a large sheet of asbestos, for the bottom of the oven, will prevent the cracking of jars. The wooden rack, on which the bottles rest in the washboiler, is made in this manner: Have two strips of wood meas- uring one inch high, one inch wide, and two inches shorter than the length of the boiler. On these pieces of wood tack thin strips of wood that are one and one-half inches shorter than the width of the boiler. These cross-strips should be about one inch wide, and there should be an inch between two strips. This rack will support the jars and will admit the free circulation of boiling water about them. CANNING AND PRESERVING FRUIT IN THE HOME 719 Young willow branches, woven into a mat, also make a good bed for bottles and jars. The wire basket is a saver of time and strength. The fruit to be peeled is put into the basket, which is lowered into a deep kettle partially filled with boiling water. After a few minutes the basket is lifted from the boiling water, plunged for a moment into cold water, and the fruit is ready to have the skin drawn off. A strong wire sieve is a necessity when purees of fruit are to be made. These sieves are known as puree sieves. They are made of strong wire and in addition have supports of still stronger wire. A fruit pricker is easily made and saves time. Cut a piece half an inch deep from a broad cork; press through this a dozen or more coarse darning needles; tack the cork on a piece of board. Strike the fruit on the bed of needles, and you have a dozen holes at once. When the work is finished, remove the cork from the board, wash and dry thoroughly. A little oil on the needles will prevent rusting. With needles of the size suggested there is little danger of the points breaking, but it is worth remembering that the use of pricking machines was abandoned in curing prunes on a commercial scale in California because the steel needles broke and remained in the fruit. A wooden vegetable masher is indis- pensable when making jellies and purees. A syrup gauge and glass cylinder are not essential to preserving, canning and jelly making, but they are valuable aids in getting the right proportion of sugar for fruit or jelly. The syrup gauge costs about 50 cents and the cylinder about 25 cents. A lipped cylinder that holds a little over a gill is the best size. Small iron rings, such as sometimes come off the hub of cart wheels, may be used instead of a tripod for sligntly rais- ing the preserving kettels from the hot stove or range. To make a flannel straining bag, take a square piece of flannel (27 by 27 inches is a good size), fold it to make a three- cornered bag, stitch one of the sides, cut the top square across, bind the opening with strong, broad tape, stitch on this binding four tapes with which to tie the bag to a frame. To use this bag, tie it to a strong frame or to the backs of two kitchen chairs. If the chairs are used, place some heavy articles in them; or the bag may hang on a pole (a broom handle) which rests on the backs of the chairs. A high stool turned upside down makes a good sup- port for the bag. Put a bowl on the floor under the bag, then pour in the fruit juice, which will pass through compara- tively clear. Before it is used the bag should be washed and boiled in clear water. Selection and Preparation of tlie Fruit The selection of fruit is one of the flrst steps in obtaining successful results. The flavor of fruit is not developed until it is fully ripe, but the time at which the fruit is at its best for canning, jelly making, etc., is just before it is perfectly ripe. In all soft fruits the fermentative stage follows closely upon the perfectly ripe stage; therefore it is better to use underripe rather than overripe fruit. This is especially important in jelly making for another reason also: In overripe fruit the pectin begins to lose its jelly-making quality. All fruits should, if possible, be freshly picked for preserving, canning, and jelly making. No imperfect fruit should be canned or preserved. Gnarly fruit may be used for jellies or marmalades by cut- ting out defective portions. Bruised spots should be cut out of peaches and pears. In selecting small-seeded fruits, like berries, for canning, those having a small proportion of seed to pulp should be chosen. In dry seasons berries have a larger proportion of seeds to pulp than in wet or normal seasons, and it is not wise to can or preserve such fruit unless the seeds are removed. The fruit should be rubbed through a sieve that is fine enough to keep back the seeds. The strained pulp can be preserved as a puree or marmalade. When fruit is brought into the house put it where it will keep cool and crisp until you are ready to use it. 720 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE The preparation of fruit for the various processes of preserving is the second im- portant step. System will do much to lighten the work. Begin by having the kitchen swept and dusted thoroughly, that there need not be a large number of mold spores floating about. Dust with a damp cloth. Have plenty of hot water and pans in which jars and utensils may be sterilized. Have at hand all necessary utensils, towels, sugar, etc. Prepare only as much fruit as can be cooked while it still retains its color and crispness. Be- fore beginning to pare fruit have some syrup ready, if that is to be used, or if sugar is to be added to the fruit have it weighed and measured. Decide upon the amount of fruit you will cook at one time, then have two bowls — one for sugar and one for the fruit — that will hold just the quantity of each. As the fruit is pared or hulled, as the case may be, drop it into its measur- ing bowl. When the measure is full put the fruit and sugar in the preserving kettle. While this is cooking another measure may be prepared and put in the second preserving kettle. In this way the fruit is cooked quickly and put in the jars and sealed at once, leaving the pans ready to sterilize another set of jars. If the fruit is to be preserved or canned with syrup, it may be put into the jars as fast as it is prepared. As soon as a jar is full, pour in enough syrup to cover it. If several people are helping and large kettles are being used for the preserving, or where fruit (like quinces and hard pears) must be first boiled in clear water, the pared fruit should be dropped into a bowl of cold water made slightly acid with lemon juice (one tablespponful of lemon juice to a quart of water). This will keep the fruit white. All large, hard fruit must be washed before paring. Quinces should be rubbed with a coarse towel before they are washed. If berries must be washed, do the work before stemming or hulling them. The best way to wash berries is to put a small quantity into a colander and pour cold water over them; then turn them on a sieve to drain. All this work must be done quickly that the fruit may not absorb much water. Do not use the fingers for hulling strawberries. A sim- ple huller can be bought for five cents. If practicable pare fruit with a silver knife, so as not to stain or darken the product. The quickest and easiest way to peel peaches is to drop them into boil- ing water for a few minutes. Have a deep kettle a little more than half-full of boiling water; fill a wire basket with peaches; put a long-handled spoon under the handle of the basket and lower into the boiling water. Let the peaches drain a minute, then peel. Plums and tomatoes may be peeled in the same manner. If the peaches are to be canned in syrup, put them at once into the steril- ized jars. They may be canned whole or in halves. If in halves, remove nearly all the stones or pits. For the sake of the flavor, a few stones should be put in each jar. When preparing cherries, plums, or crabapples for canning or preserving, the stem or a part of it may be left on the fruit. When preparing to make jelly have ready the cheesecloth strainer, enameled colander, wooden spoons, vegetable mash- er, measures, tumblers, preserving ket- tles, and sugar. If currant jelly is to be made, free the fruit from leaves and large stems. If the jelly is to be made from any of the other small fruits, the stems and hulls must be removed. When the jelly is to be made from any of the larger fruits the important part of the preparation is to have the fruit washed clean, then to remove the stem and blossom end. Nearly all the large fruits are better for having the skin left on. Apples and pears need not be cored. There is so much gummy substance in the cores of quinces that it is best not to use this portion in making fine jelly. Making: Syrup for Use in Canning and Preserving Such syrups as are used in canning and preserving are made with varying pro- portions of water and sugar. When the proportion of sugar is large and that of Plate V The San Jose Scale on Pears. (See parje 537.) CANNING AND PRESERVING FRUIT IN THE HOME 721 the water small the syrup is said to be heavy. When the water predominates the syrup is light. There are several methods of measus- ing the proportion of sugar in a syrup. The most scientific and accurate is with the syrup gauge. Careful measurement or weighing is, however, quite satisfactory for all ordinary work if the syrup need not be boiled a long time. In boiling the water evaporates and the syrup grows thicker and richer. The amount of evapo- ration depends upon the surface exposed and the pressure of the atmosphere. For example, if a large quantity of syrup is boiled in a deep kettle the evaporation will not be rapid. If the same quantity of syrup were boiled the same length of time in a high altitude, Colorado for ex- ample, and at the sea level, it would be found that the syrup boiled at the sea level would be thicker and less in volume than that boiled in Colorado. From this it will be seen that it is difficult to say what proportion of sugar a syrup will contain after it has been boiling 10 or more minutes. Of course by the use of the syrup gauge the proportion of sugar in a syrup may be ascertained at any stage of the boiling. After all, however, it is possible to measure sugar and water so that you can know the percentage of sugar when the syrup begins to boil. The following statement gives the percentage of sugar at the time when the syrup has been boiling one minute and also what kind of syrup is suitable for the various kinds of fruit: One pint sugar and one gill of water gives syrup of 40 degrees density: Use for preserved strawberries and cherries. One pint sugar and one-half pint water gives syrup of 32 degrees density. One pint sugar and three gills water gives syrup of 28 degrees density: Use either this or the preceding for preserved peaches, plums, quinces, currants, etc. One pint sugar and one pint water gives syrup of 24 degrees density: Use for canned acid fruits. One pint sugar and one and one-half pints water gives syrup of 17 degrees density. One pint sugar and two pints water gives syrup of 14 degrees density: Use either of these two light syrups for canned pears, peaches, sweet plums, and cherries, raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries. The lightest syrups may be used for filling up the jars after they are taken from the oven or boiler. The process of making syrup is very simple, but there are a few points that must be observed if syrup and fruit are to be perfect. Put the sugar and water in the saucepan and stir on the stove until all the sugar is dissolved. Heat slowly to the boiling point and boil gently without stirring. The length of time that the syrup should boil will depend upon how rich it is to be. All syrups are better for boiling from 10 to 30 minutes. If rich syrups are boiled hard, jarred, or stirred, they are apt to crystallize. The syrup may be made a day or two in advance of canning time. The light syrups will not keep long unless sealed, the heavy syrups keep well if covered well. Use of Syrup Gauge The syrup gauge is a graduated glass tube, with a weighted bulb, that registers from no degrees to 50 degrees, and that is employed to determine the quantity of sugar contained in a syrup. If this gauge is placed in pure water the bulb will rest on the bottom of the cylinder or other container. If sugar be dissolved in the water the gauge will be- gin to float. The more sugar there is dissolved in the water the higher the gauge will rise. In making tests it is essential that the syrup should be deep enough to reach the zero point of the gauge. If a glass cylinder holding about half a gill is filled to about two-thirds its height, and the gauge is then placed in the cylinder, the quantity of sugar in the syrup will be registered on the gauge. Experiments have demonstrated that when sugar is dissolved and heated in fruit juice, if the syrup gauge registers 25 degrees, the proportion of sugar is exactly right for combining with the- pectin bodies to make jelly. The syrup 722 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE gauge and the glass cylinder must both be heated gradually that the hot syrup may not break them. If the gauge regis- ters more than 25 degrees, add more fruit juice. If, on the other hand, it registers less than 25 degrees, add more sugar. In making syrups for canning and preserving fruits, the exact amount of sugar in a syrup may be ascertained at any stage of boiling, and the syrup be made heavier by adding sugar, or lighter by adding water, as the case demands. Canning Fruit This method of preserving fruit for home use is, from all points, the most desirable. It is the easiest and commonly considered the most economical and the best, because the fruit is kept in a soft and juicy condition in which it is be- lieved to be easily digested. The wise housekeeper will can her principal fruit supply, making only enough rich pre- serves to serve for variety and for special occasions. The success of canning depends upon absolute sterilization. If the proper care is exercised there need be no failure, ex- cept in rare cases, when a spore has de- veloped in the can. There are several methods of canning; and while the prin- ciple is the same in all methods, the con- ditions under which the housekeeper must do her work may, in her case, make one method more convenient than an- other. For this reason three will be given which are considered the best and easiest. These are: Cooking the fruit in the jars in an oven; cooking the fruit in the jars in boiling water; and stewing the fruit before it is put in the jars. The quantity of sugar may be increased if the fruit is liked sweet. It is most important that the jars, covers, and rubber rings be in perfect condition. Examine each jar and cover to see that there is no defect in it. Use only fresh rubber rings, for if the rubber is not soft and elastic the sealing will not be perfect. Each year numbers of jars of fruit are lost because of the false economy in using an old ring that has lost its softness and elasticity. Having the jars, covers, and rings in perfect con- dition, the next thing is to wash and sterilize them. Have two pans partially filled with cold water. Put some jars in one, laying them on their sides, and some covers in the other. Place the pans on the stove where the water will heat to the boiling point. The water should boil at least 10 or 15 minutes. Have on the stove a shal- low milkpan in which there is about two inches of boiling water. Sterilize the cups, spoons and funnel, if you use one, by immersing in boiling water for a few minutes. When ready to put the pre- pared fruit in the jars slip a broad skim- mer under a jar and lift it and drain free of water. Set the jar in the shallow milk pan and fill to overflowing with the boiling fruit. Slip a silver-plated knife or the handle of a spoon around the in- side of the jar, that the fruit and juice may be packed solidly. Wipe the rim of the jar, dip the rubber ring in boiling water and put it smoothly on the jar, then put on the cover and fasten. Place the jar on a board and out of a draft of cold air. The work of filling and sealing must be done rapidly, and the fruit must be boiling hot when it is put into the jars. If screw covers are used, it will be necessary to tighten them after the glass has cooled and contracted. When the fruit is cold wipe the jars with a wet cloth. Paste on the labels, if any, and put the jars on shelves in a cool, dark closet. In canning, any proportion of sugar may be used, or fruit may be canned with- out the addition of any sugar. However, that which is designed to be served as a sauce should have the sugar cooked with it. Fruit intended for cooking purposes need not have the sugar added to it. Juicy fruits, such as berries and cher- ries, require little or no water. Straw- berries are better not to have water added to them. The only exception to this is when they are cooked in a heavy syrup. Raspberries 12 quarts of raspberries. 2 quarts of sugar. Put two quarts of the fruit in the pre- serving kettle; heat slowly on the stove; CANNING AND PRESERVING FRUIT IN THE HOME 723 crush with a wooden vegetable masher; spread a square of cheesecloth over a bowl, and turn the crushed berries and juice into it. Press out the juice, which turn into the preserving kettle. Add the sugar and put on the stove; stir until the sugar is dissolved. When the syrup begins to boil, add the remaining 10 quarts of berries. Let them heat slowly. Boil 10 minutes, counting from the time they begin to bubble. Skim well while boiling. Put in cans and seal as directed. Raspberries and Currants 10 quarts of raspberries. 3 quarts of currants. 21^ quarts of sugar. Heat, crush, and press the juice from the currants and proceed as directed for raspberries. Blackberries The same as for raspberries. Currants 12 quarts of currants. 4 quarts of sugar. Treat the same as for raspberries. Gooseberries 6 quarts of berries. 1^4 quarts of sugar. 1 pint of water. For green gooseberries dissolve the sugar in the water, then add the fruit and cook 15 minutes. Ripe gooseberries are to be treated the same as the green fruit, but use only half as much water. Green gooseberries may also be canned the same as rhubarb. (See Rhubarb.) Blueberries 12 quarts of berries. 1 quart of sugar. 1 pint of water. Put water, berries and sugar in the preserving kettle; heat slowly. Boil 15 minutes, counting from the time the con- tents of the kettle begin to bubble. Cherries 6 quarts of cherries. 1% quarts of sugar. Yo pint of water. Measure the cherries after the stems have been removed. Stone them or not, as you please. If you stone them, be careful to save all the juice. Put the sugar and water in the preserving kettle and stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Put in the cherries and heat slowly to the boiling point. Boil 10 min- utes, skimming carefully. Grapes 6 quarts of grapes. 1 quart of sugar. 1 gill of water. Squeeze the pulp of the grapes out of the skins. Cook the pulp five minutes and then rub through a sieve that is fine enough to hold back the seeds. Put the water, skins and pulp into the preserving kettle and heat slowly to the boiling point. Skim the fruit and then add the sugar. Boil 15 minutes. Sweet grapes may be canned with less sugar; very sour ones may have more. Rhubarb Cut the rhubarb when it is young and tender. Wash it thoroughly and then pare; cut into pieces about two inches long. Pack in sterilized jars. Fill the jars to overflowing with cold water and let them stand 10 minutes. Drain off the water and fill again to overflowing with fresh cold water. Seal with sterilized rings and covers. When required for use, treat the same as fresh rhubarb. Green gooseberries may be canned in the same manner. Rhubarb may be cooked and canned with sugar in the same manner as gooseberries. Peaches 8 quarts of peaches. 1 quart of sugar. 3 quarts of water. Put the sugar and water together and stir over the fire until the sugar is dis- solved. When the syrup boils, skim it. Draw the kettle back where the syrup will keep hot but not boil. Pare the peaches, cut in halves, and remove the stones, unless you prefer to can the fruit whole. Put a layer of the prepared fruit into the preserving kettle and cover with some of the hot syrup. When the fruit begins to boil, skim carefully. Boil 724 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE gently for 10 minutes, then put in the jars and seal. If the fruit is not entirely- ripe, it may require a little longer time to cook. It should be so tender that it may be pierced easily with a silver fork. It is best to put only one layer of fruit in the preserving kettle. "While this is cooking the fruit for the next batch may be pared. Pears If the fruit is ripe it may be treated exactly the same as peaches. If, on the other hand, it is rather hard it must be cooked until so tender that a silver fork will pierce it readily. Quinces 4 quarts of pared, cored and quartered quinces. 1% quarts of sugar. 2 quarts of water. Rub the fruit hard with a coarse, crash towel, then wash and drain. Pare, quarter, and core; drop the pieces into cold water (See Selection and Prepara- tion of the Fruit — paragraph re Quinces and Pears). Put the fruit in the preserv- ing kettle with cold water to cover it generously. Heat slowly and simmer gently until tender. The pieces will not all require the same time to cook. Take each piece up as soon as it is so tender that a silver fork will pierce it readily. Drain on a platter. Strain the water in which the fruit was cooked throu h cheesecloth. Put two quarts of the strained liquid and the sugar into the preserving kettle; stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. When it boils skim well and put in the cooked fruit. Boil gently for about 20 minutes. Crab Apples 6 quarts of apples. IV2 quarts of sugar. 2 quarts of water. Put the sugar and water into the pre- serving kettle. Stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. When syrup boils skim it. Wash the fruit, rubbing the blossom end well. Put it in the boiling syrup, and cook gently until tender. It will take from 20 to 50 minutes, depending upon the kind of crab apples. Plums 8 quarts of plums. 2 quarts of sugar. 1 pint of water. Nearly all kinds of plums can be cooked with the skins on. If it is desired to remove the skin of any variety, plunge them in boiling water for a few minutes. When the skins are left on, prick them thoroughly to prevent bursting. Put the sugar and water into the pre- serving kettle and stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Wash and drain the plums. Put some of the fruit in the boiling syrup. Do not crowd it. Cook five minutes; fill and seal the jars. Put more fruit in the syrup. Continue in this manner until all the fruit is done. It may be that there will not be sufficient syrup toward the latter part of the work ; for this reason it is well to have a little extra syrup on the back of the stove. Stewed Tomatoes Wash the tomatoes and plunge into boiling water for five minutes. Pare and slice, and then put into the preserving kettle; set the kettle on an iron ring. Heat the tomatoes slowly, stirring fre- quently from the bottom. Boil for 30 minutes, counting from the time the vegetable begins actually to boil. Put in sterilized jars and seal. Whole Tomatoes 6 quarts of medium-sized tomatoes. 4 quarts of sliced tomatoes. Put the pared and sliced tomatoes into a stewpan and cook as directed for stewed tomatoes. When they have been boiling 20 minutes take from the fire and rub through a strainer. Return to the fire. While the sliced tomatoes are cooking, pare the whole tomatoes and put them in sterilized jars. Pour into the jars enough of the stewed and strained to- mato to fill all the interstices. Put the uncovered jars in a moderate oven, plac- ing them on a pad of asbestos or in shal- low pans of hot water. Let the vegetable cook in the oven for half an hour. Take from the oven and fill to overflowing with CANNING AND PRESERVING FRUIT IN THE HOME 725 boiling hot, strained tomato, then seal. If there is any of the strained tomato left, can it for sauces. Canned Fruit Cooked in the Oyen This method of canning fruit, in the opinion of the writer, is the one to be preferred. The work is easily and quick- ly done, and the fruit retains its shape, color, and flavor better than when cook- ed in the preserving kettle. Cover the bottom of the oven with a sheet of as- bestos, the kind plumbers employ cov- ering pipes. It is very cheap and may usually be found at plumbers' shops. If the asbestos is not available, put into the oven shallow pans in which there are about two inches of boiling water. Sterilize the jars and utensils. Make the syrup; prepare the fruit the same as for cooking in the preserving kettle. Fill the hot jars with it, and pour in enough syrup to fill the jar solidly. Run the blade of a silver-plated knife around the inside of the jar. Place the jars in the oven, either on the asbestos or in the pan of water. The oven should be mod- erately hot. Cook the fruit ten minutes; remove from the oven and fill the jar with boiling syrup. Wipe and seal. Place the jars on a board and out of a draft of air. If the screw covers are used tighten them after the glass has cooled. Large fruits, such as peaches, pears, quinces, crab apples, etc., will require about a pint of syrup to each quart jar of fruit. The small fruit will require a little over half a pint of syrup. The amount of sugar in each quart of syrup should be regulated to suit the fruit with which it is to be used. Canned Fruit Cooked in a Water Bath Prepare the fruit and syrup as for cook- ing in the oven. Fill the sterilized jars and put the cov- ers on loosely. Have a wooden rack in the bottom of a wash boiler. Put in enough warm water to come to about 4 inches above the rack. Place the filled jars in the boiler, but do not let them touch one another. Pack clean white cotton rags, or perhaps better, cotton rope, between and around the jars to pre- vent them from striking one another when the water begins to boil. Cover the boiler and let the fruit cook ten minutes from the time the water sur- rounding it begins to boil. Draw the boiler back and take off the cover. When the steam passes off take out one jar at a time and place in a pan of boiling water beside the boil- er, fill up with boiling syrup and seal. Put the jars on a board and do not let cold air blow upon them. If screw cov- ers are used tighten them when the glass has cooled and contracted. Preserving Fruit In the case of most fruits, canning with a little sugar is to be preferred to preserving with a large quantity of sugar. There are, however, some fruits that are only good when preserved with a good deal of sugar. Of course, such prepara- tions of fruit are only desirable for oc- casional use. The fruits best adapted for preserving are strawberries, sour cher- ries, sour plums, and quinces. Such rich preparations should be put up in small jars or tumblers. Strawberries Use equal weights of sugar and straw- berries. Put the strawberries in the pre- serving kettle in layers, sprinkling sugar over each layer. The fruit and sugar should not be more than 4 inches deep. Place the kettle on the stove and heat the fruit and sugar slowly to the boil- ing point. When it begins to boil skim carefully. Boil ten minutes, counting from the time the fruit begins to bubble. Pour the cooked fruit into platters, hav- ing it about 2 or 3 inches deep. Place the platters in a sunny window, in an unused room, for three or four days. In that time the fruit will grow plump and firm, and the syrup will thicken al- most to a jelly. Put this preserve, cold, into jars or tumblers. White Currants Select large, firm fruit, remove the stems, and proceed as for strawberries. Cherries The sour cherries, such as Early Rich- mond and Montmorency, are best for 726 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE this preserve. Remove the stems and stones from the cherries and proceed as for strawberry preserve. Cherries Preserved with Currant Juice 12 quarts of cherries 3 quarts of currants 2 quarts of sugar Put the currants in the preserving kettle and on the fire. "When they boil up crush them and strain through cheese- cloth, pressing out all the juice. Stem and stone the cherries, being careful to save all the juice. Put the cherries, fruit juice, and sugar in the preserving kettle. Heat to the boiling point and skim carefully. Boil for twenty minutes. Put in sterilized jars or tumblers. This gives an acid preserve. The sugar may be doubled if richer preserves are de- sired. Plum Preserve 4 quarts of green gages. 2 quarts of sugar. 1 pint of water. Prick the fruit and put it in a preserv- ing kettle. Cover generously with cold water. Heat to the boiling point and boil gently for five minutes. Drain well. Put the sugar and water in a preserv- ing kettle and stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Boil five minutes, skimming well. Put the drained green gages in this syrup and cook gently for twenty minutes. Put in sterilized jars. Other plums may be preserved in the same manner. The skins should be re- moved from white plums. Quinces 4 quarts of pared, quartered, and cored quinces. 2 quarts of sugar. 1 quart of water. Boil the fruit in clear water until it is tender, then skim out and drain. Put the 2 quarts of sugar and 1 quart of water in the preserving kettle; stir un- til the sugar is dissolved. Let it heat slowly to the boiling point. Skim well and boil for twenty minutes. Pour one- half of the syrup into a second kettle. Put one-half of the cooked and drained fruit into each kettle. Simmer gently for half an hour, then put in sterilized jars. The water in which the fruit was boiled can be used with parings, cores, and gnarly fruit to make jelly. Fruit Purees Purees of fruit are in the nature of marmalades, but they are not cooked so long, and so retain more of the natural flavor of the fruit. This is a particular- ly nice way to preserve the small, seedy fruits, which are to be used in puddings, cake, and frozen desserts. Free the fruit from leaves, stems, and decayed portions. Peaches and plums should have the skins and stones re- moved. Rub the fruit through a puree sieve. To each quart of the strained fruit add a pint of sugar. Pack in steril- ized jars. Put the covers loosely on the jars. Place the jars on the rack in the boiler. Pour in enough cold water to come half way up the sides of the jars. Heat gradually to the boiling point and boil thirty minutes, counting from the time when the water begins to bubble. Have some boiling syrup ready. As each jar is taken from the boiler put it in a pan of hot water and fill up with the hot syrup. Seal at once. Marmalades Marmalades require great care while cooking because no moisture is added to the fruit and sugar. If the marmalade is made from berries the fruit should be rubbed through a sieve to remove the seeds. If large fruit is used have it washed, pared, cored, and quartered. Measure the fruit and sugar, allow- ing one pint of sugar to each quart of fruit. Rinse the preserving kettle with cold water that there may be a slight coat of moisture on the sides and bottom. Put alternate layers of fruit and sugar in the kettle, having the first layer fruit. Heat slowly, stirring frequently. While stir- ring, break up the fruit as much as pos- sible. Cook about two hours, then put in small sterilized jars. Fruit Preserved in Grape Juice Any kind of fruit can be preserved by this method, but it is particularly good CANNING AND PRESERVING FRUIT IN THE HOME 727 for apples, pears, and sweet plums. No sugar need be used in this process. Boil 6 quarts of grape juice in an open preserving kettle, until it is reduced to 4 quarts. Have the fruit washed and pared, and, if apples or pears, quartered and cored. Put the prepared fruit in a preserving kettle and cover generously with the boiled grape juice. Boil gently until the fruit is clear and tender, then put in sterilized jars. Boiled Cider When the apple crop is abundant and a large quantity of cider is made, the housekeeper will find it to her advan- tage to put up a generous supply of boil- ed cider. Such cider greatly improves mince-meat, and can be used at any time of the year to make cider apple sauce. It is also a good selling article. The cider for boiling must be perfect- ly fresh and sweet. Put it in a large, open preserving kettle and boil until it is reduced one-half. Skim frequently while boiling. Do not have the kettle more than two-thirds full. Put in bottles or stone jugs. Cider Apple Sauce 5 quarts of boiled cider. 8 quarts of pared, quartered, and cored sweet apples. Put the fruit in a large preserving ket- tle and cover with the boiled cider. Cook slowly until the apples are clear and tender. To prevent burning, place the kettle on an iron tripod or ring. It will require from two to three hours to cook the apples. If you find it necessary to stir the sauce be careful to break the apples as little as possible. When the sauce is cooked, put in sterilized jars. In the late spring, when cooking ap- ples have lost much of their flavor and acidity, an appetizing sauce maj^ be made by stewing them with diluted boiled cid- er, using 1 cupful of cider to 3 of water. Cider Pear Sauce Cooking pears may be preserved in boil- ed cider the same as sweet apples. If one prefers the sauce less sour, 1 pint of sugar may be added to each quart of boiled cider. Metliods of Making Jelly In no department of preserving does the housekeeper feel less sure of the result than in jelly making. The rule that works perfectly one time fails an- other time. Why this is so the average housekeeper does not know; so there is nearly always an element of uncertainty as to the result of the work. These two questions are being constantly asked: "Why does not my jelly harden?" "What causes my jelly to candy?" It is an easy matter to say that there is something in the condition of the fruit, or that the fruit juice and sugar were cooked too short or too long a time. These explanations are often true; but they do not help the inquirer, since at other times just that proportion of sugar and time of cooking have given perfect jelly. In the following pages an attempt is made to give a clear explanation of the principles underlying the process of jel- ly making. It is believed that the women who study this carefully will find the key to unvarying success in this branch of preserving. Pectin, Pectose, Pectase In all fruits, when ripe or nearly so, there is found pectin, a carbohydrate somewhat similar in its properties to starch. It is because of this substance in the fruit juice that we are able to make jelly. When equal quantities of sugar and fruit juice are combined and the mixture is heated to the boiling point for a short time, the pectin in the fruit gelatinizes the mass. It is important that the jelly maker should understand when this gelatiniz- ing agent is at its best. Pectose and pectase always exist in the unripe fruit. As the fruit ripens the pectase acts upon the pectose, which is insoluble in water, converting it into pectin, which is soluble. Pectin is at its best when the fruit is just ripe or a little before. If the juice ferments, or the cooking of the jelly is continued too long, the pectin undergoes a change and loses its power of gelatin- izing. It is, therefore, of the greatest im- portance that the fruit should be fresh, just ripe or a little underripe, and that 728 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE the boiling of the sugar and juice should not be continued too long. Fruits vary as to the quantities of sugar, acid, pectin, and gums in their composition. Some of the sour fruits con- tain more sugar than do some of the milder-flavored fruits. Currants, for ex- ample, often contain four or five times as much sugar as the peach. The peach does not contain so much free acid and it does contain a great deal of pectin bodies, which mask the acid; hence, the comparative sweetness of the ripe fruit. Selection and Handling of Fniit for Jelly Making An acid fruit is the most suitable for jelly making, though in some of the acid fruits, the strawberry, for example, the quantity of the jelly-making pectin is so small that it is difficult to make jelly with this fruit. If, however, some currant juice be added to the strawberry juice, a pleasant jelly will be the result; yet, of course, the flavor of the straw- berry will be modified. Here is a list of the most desirable fruits for jelly making. The very best are given first: Currant, crab apple, apple, quince, grape, blackberry, raspberry, peach. Apples make a very mild jelly, and it may be flavored with fruits, flowers, or spices. If the apples are acid it is not advisable to use any flavor. Juicy fruits, such as currants, raspberries, etc., should not be gathered after a rain, for they will have absorbed so much water as to make it difficult, without excessive boil- ing, to get the juice to jelly. If ber- ries are sandy or dusty it will be neces- sary to wash them, but the work should be done very quickly so that the fruit may not absorb much water. Large fruits, such as apples, peaches, and pears, must be boiled in water un- til soft. The strained liquid will con- tain the flavoring matter and pectin. It requires more work and skill to make jellies from the fruits to which water must be added than from the juicy fruits. If the juicy fruits are gathered at the proper time one may be nearly sure that they contain the right pro- portion of water. If gathered after a rain the fruit must be boiled a little longer than the superfluous water may pass off in steam. In the case of the large fruits a fair estimate is 3 quarts of strained juice from 8 quarts of fruit and about 4 quarts of water. If the quantity of juice is greater than this it should be boiled down to 3 quarts. Ap- ples will always require 4 quarts of water to 8 quarts of fruit, but juicy peaches and plums require only 3 or 314 quarts. The jelly will be clearer and finer if the fruit is simmered gently and not stirred during cooking. It is always best to strain the juice first through cheesecloth and without pressure. If the cloth is double the juice will be quite clear. When a very clear jelly is desired the strained juice should pass through a flannel or felt bag. The juice may be pressed from the fruit left in the strainer and used in marmalade or for second-quality jelly. To make jelly that will not crystallize (candy) the right proportion of sugar must be added to the fruit juice. If the fruit contains a high percentage of sugar, the quantity of added sugar should be a little less than the quantity of fruit juice. That is to say, in a season when there has been a great deal of heat and sunshine there will be more sugar in the fruit than in a cold, wet season; con- sequently, 1 pint of currant juice will require but three-quarters of a pint of sugar. But in a cold, wet season the pint of sugar for the pint of juice must be measured generously. Another cause of the jelly crystalliz- ing is hard boiling. When the syrup boils so rapidly that particles of it are thrown on the upper part of the sides of the preserving kettle they often form crystals. If these crystals are stirred into the syrup they are apt to cause the mass to crystallize in time. The use of the syrup gauge and care not to boil the syrup too violently would do away with all uncertainty in jelly making. The syrup gauge should reg- ister 25 degrees, no matter what kind of fruit is used. Jellies should be covered CANNING AND PRESERVING FRUIT IN THE HOME 729 closely and kept in a cool, dry, dark place. Currant Jelly The simplest method of making cur- rant jelly is perhaps the following: Free the currants from leaves and large stems. Put them in the preserving kettle; crush a few with a wooden vegetable masher or spoon; heat slowly, stirring frequent- ly. When the currants are hot, crush them with the vegetable masher. Put a hair sieve or strainer over a large bowl; over this spread a double square of cheese- cloth. Turn the crushed fruit and juice into the cheesecloth, and let it drain as long as it drips, but do not use pressure. To hasten the process take the corners of the straining cloth firmly in the hands and lift from the sieve; move the con- tents by raising one side of the cloth and then the other. After this put the cloth over another bowl. Twist the ends to- gether and press out as much juice as possible. This juice may be used to make a second quality of jelly. The clear juice may be made into jel- ly at once, or it may be strained through a flannel bag. In any case, the method of making the jelly is the same. Measure the juice, and put it in a clean preserving kettle. For every pint of juice add a pint of granulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then place over the fire; watch closely, and when it boils up draw it back and skim; put over the fire again, and boil and skim once more; boil and skim a third time; then pour into hot glasses taken from the pan of water on the stove and set on a board. Place the board near a sunny window in a room where there is no dust. It is a great protection and advantage to have sheets of glass to lay on top of the tumblers. As soon as the jelly is set cover by one of the three methods given under "Covering Jellies." To make very transparent currant jelly, heat, crush, and strain the currants as directed in the simplest process. Put the strained juice in the flannel bag and let it drain through. Measure the juice and sugar, pint for pint, and finish as directed above. To make currant jelly by the cold pro- cess follow the first rule for jelly as far as dissolving the sugar in the strained juice. Fill warm, sterilized glasses with this. Place the glasses on a board and put the board by a sunny window. Cover with sheets of glass and keep by the window until the jelly is set. The jelly will be more transparent if the juice is strained through the flannel bag. Jelly made by the cold process is more delicate than that made by boiling, but it does not keep quite so well. Raspberry and Currant Jelly Make the same as currant jelly, using half currants and half raspberries. Raspberry Jelly Make the same as currant jelly. Blackberry Jelly Make the same as currant jelly. Strawberry Jelly To 10 quarts of strawberries add 2 quai'ts of currants and proceed as for currant jelly, but boil fifteen minutes. Ripe Grape Jelly An acid grape is best for this jelly. The sweet, ripe grapes contain too much sugar. Half-ripe fruit, or equal portions of nearly ripe and green grapes, will al- so be found satisfactory. Wild grapes make delicious jelly. Make the same as currant jelly. Green Grape Jelly Make the same as apple jelly. Plum Jelly Use an underripe acid plum. Wash the fruit and remove the stems. Put into the preserving kettle with 1 quart of water for each peck of fruit. Cook gently until the plums ai'e boiled to pieces. Strain the juice and proceed the same as for currant jelly. Apple Jelly Wash, stem, and wipe the apples, being careful to clean the blossom end thoro- ughly. Cut into quarters and put into the preserving kettle. Barely cover with 730 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE cold water (about 4 quarts to 8 of ap- ples) and cook gently until the apples are soft and clear. Strain the juice and proceed as for currant jelly. There should be but 3 quarts of juice from 8 quarts of apples and 4 of water. Apples vary in the percentage of sugar and acid they contain. A fine-flavored acid apple should be employed when pos- sible. Apple jelly may be made at any time of the year, but winter apples are best and should be used when in their prime, i. e., from the fall to December or January. When it is found necessary to make apple jelly in the spring, add the juice of one lemon to every pint of apple juice. Cider Apple Jelly Make the same as plain apple jelly, but covering the apples with cider in- stead of water. The cider must be fresh from the press. Crab Apple Jelly Make the same as plain apple jelly. Quince Jelly Rub the quinces with a coarse crash towel; cut out the blossom end. Wash the fruit and pare it and cut in quarters. Cut out the cores, putting them in a dish by themselves. Have a large bowl half full of water; drop the perfect pieces of fruit into this bowl. Put the parings and imperfect parts, cut very fine, into the preserving kettle. Add a quart of water to every 2 quarts of fruit and par- ings. Put on the fire and cook gently for two hours. Strain and finish the same as apple jelly. The perfect fruit may be preserved or canned. To make quince jelly of a second qual- ity, when the parings and fruit are put on to cook put the cores into another kettle and cover them generously with water and cook two hours. After all the juice has been drained from the parings and fruit, put what remains into the pre- serving kettle with the cores. Mix well and turn into the straining cloth. Press all the juice possible from this mixture. Put the juice in the preserving kettle with a pint of sugar to a pint of juice; boil ten minutes. Wild Fruits for Jellies Wild raspberries, blackberries, barber- ries, grapes, and beach plums all make delicious jellies. The frequent failures in making barberry jelly come from the fruit not being fresh or from being over- ripe. Preparation of the Glasses for Jelly Sterilize the glasses; take from the boiling water and set them in a shallow baking pan in which there is about 2 inches of boiling water. Covering Jellies Jellies are so rich in sugar that they are protected from bacteria and yeasts, but they must be covered carefully to protect them from mold spores and evaporation. The following methods of covering jellies are good: Have disks of thick white paper the size of the top of the glass. When the jelly is set, brush the top over with brandy or alcohol. Dip the disk of paper in the spirits and put it on the jelly. If the glasses have covers, put them on. If there are no covers, cut disks of pa- per about half an inch in diameter larger than the top of the glass. Beat together the white of one egg and a tablespoonful of cold water. Wet the paper covers with this mixture and put over the glass, pressing down the sides well to make them stick to the glass; or the covers may be dipped in olive oil and tied on the glasses, but they must be cut a little larger than when the white of egg is used. A thiclv coating of paraffin makes a good cover, but not quite so safe as the paper dipped in brandy or alcohol, be- cause the spirits destroy any mold or spores that may happen to rest on the jelly. If such spores are covered with the paraffin they may develop under it. However, the paper wet with spirits could be put on first and the paraffin poured over it. If paraffin is used, break it into pieces and put in a cup. Set the cup in a pan of warm water on the back of the stove. In a few moments it will be melted enough to cover the jelly. Have the coating CANNING AND PRESERVING FRUIT IN THE HOME 731 about a fourth of an inch thick. In cool- ing the paraffin contracts, and if the lay- er is very thin it will crack and leave a portion of the jelly exposed. Canned or Bottled Fruit Juices Fruit juice is most desirable for drink- ing oir for culinary purposes. Grape juice is particularly good as a drink. It may be canned with or without sugar, but, except where the grapes have a large percentage of sugar, as is the case in California, some sugar should be added to the juice in canning. Currant juice may be sterilized and canned without sugar. This juice may be made into jel- ly at any season of the year. Fruit juices that are designed for use in frozen creams and water ices should be canned with a generous amount of sugar. For grape juice good bottles are to be preferred to fruit cans. If you can get the self-sealing bottles, such as pop or beer comes in, the work of putting up grape juice will be light. If bottles are employed, be very careful to sterilize both bottles and corks. Grape Juice Wash the grapes and pick from the stems. Put the fruit in the preserving kettle and crush slightly. Heat slowly and boil gently for half an hour. Crush the fruit with a wooden spoon. Put a sieve or colander over a large bowl and spread a square of cheesecloth over the sieve. Turn the fruit and juice into the cheesecloth; drain well, then draw the edges of the cheesecloth to- gether and twist hard to press out all the juice possible. Put the strained juice in a clean pre- serving kettle and on the fire. When it boils up, draw back and skim. Let it boil up again and skim; then add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Boil five minutes, skimming carefully. Fill hot sterilized jars or bottles. Put the jars or bottles in a moderate oven for ten minutes, in pans of boiling water. Have some boiling juice and pour a little of it into the jars as they are taken from the oven; then seal. Place on boards and set aside out of a cold draft. A good proportion of sugar and juice is 1 gill of sugar to a quart of juice. Raspberry, Blackberry, Strawberry and Currant Juices With all these fruits except currants, proceed the same as for grape juice, but adding half a pint of sugar to each quart of juice. Currants will require 1 pint of sugar to a quart of juice. Cherry, Plum and Peach Juices To preserve the juice of cherries, plums, peaches, and similar fruits, proceed as for jelly, but adding to each quart of juice half a pint of sugar instead of a quai't as for jelly. If it is not desired to have the fruit juice transparent, the pulp of the fruit may be pressed to extract all the liquid. Fruit Syrups The only difference between syrups and juice is that in the syrup there must be at least half as much sugar as fruit juice. These syrups are used for flavoring ice creams and water ices. They also make a delicious drink, when two or three spoonfuls are added to a glass of ice water. Raspberry Yinegar Put 4 quarts of raspberries in a bowl and pour over them 2 quarts of vinegar. Cover and set in a cool place for two days. On the second day strain the vine- gar through cheesecloth. Put 4 quarts of fresh raspberries in the bowl and pour over them the vinegar strained from the first raspberries. Put in a cool place for two days, then strain. Put the strained juice in a preserving kettle with 3 quarts of sugar. Heat slowly, and when the vinegar boils skim carefully. Boil twen- ty minutes, then put in sterilized bottles. About 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar to a glass of water makes a refreshing drink. Similar vinegars may be made from blackberries and strawberries. Maria Parloa, U. S. Department of Agriculture, Farmer's Bulletin No. 203. 732 ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Canning Vegetables in the Home One of the many problems that con- front the American housewife is the sup- ply of vegetables for her table during the winter months. "What can I have for dinner today?" is a question often heard. Since the advent of the modern green- house and the forcing of vegetables under glass, fresh vegetables can usually be found at any time in the markets of the large cities. But the cost of forcing vegetables or growing them out of sea- son is and will continue to be very great. This makes the price so high as almost to prohibit their use by people of moder- ate means, except as a luxury. A health- ful diet, however, must include vege- tables, and therefore the housewife turns to canned goods as the only alternative. These are sometimes poor substitutes for the fresh article, especially the cheaper commercial grades, which necessarily lack the delicate flavor of the fresh vege- table. There is practically no danger, however, from contamination with tin or other metals providing the containers are made of proper materials and handled carefully. In some cases the proper care is not taken in packing vegetables for market. The decayed and refuse portions are not so carefully removed as they should be and the requisite degree of cleanliness is not observed in their pack- ing. Happily, however, such carelessness is not general. Every housewife may run a miniature canning factory in her own kitchen, and on the farm this is especially economical and desirable, the economy being less pro- nounced in the case of city dwellers, who must buy their fruits and vegetables. Enough vegetables annually go to waste from the average farm garden to supply the table during the entire winter. But usually the farmer's wife cans her to- matoes, preserves her fruits, and leaves her most wholesome and nutritious vege- tables to decay in the field, under the im- pression that it is impossible to keep them. This is a great mistake. It is just as easy to keep corn or string beans as it is to keep tomatoes, if you know how. The same general methods for steriliza- tion and canning operations should be followed in the canning of vegetables as in the canning of fruits. So-Called "Preserving Powders" There are a great many brands of so- called "preserving powders" on the mar- ket. These are sold not only under ad- vertised trade names, but by druggists and peddlers everywhere. In the direc- tions for use the housewife is told to fill the jar with the fruit or vegetable to be canned, to cover with water, and to add a teaspoonful of the powder. It is true that these powders may prevent the de- cay of the fruit or vegetable, but they also encourage uncleanly, careless work, and in the hands of inexperienced persons may be dangerous. While with small doses the influence may not be apparent in an adult in normal health, with a child or an invalid the effect may be of a serious nature. The proper way to sterilize is by means of heat, and as this can be done very easily and cheaply the use of chemical preservatives in canning is not to be recommended. Kinds of Jars The flrst requisite for successful can- ning is a good jar. Glass is the most satisfactory. Tin is more or less soluble in the juices of fruits and vegetables. Even the most improved styles of tin cans which are lacquered on the inside to prevent the juice from coming in con- tact with the tin are open to this objec- tion. While the small amount of tin may not be injurious, it gives an unde- sirable color to many canned articles. Tin cans can not readily be used a second time, while glass with proper care will last indefinitely. There are a great many kinds of glass jars on the market, many of them pos- sessing certain distinct points of advan- tage. The ordinary screw-top jar is the one in most common use. Although cheap in price, these jars are the most expen- sive in the long run. The tops last only a few years and, being cheaply made, the breakage Is usually greater than that of CANNING VEGETABLES IN THE HOME 733 a better grade of jar. The tops also fur- nish an excellent hiding place for germs, which makes sterilization very diflScult. An improved type of screw-top jar is now in use. These are fitted with a glass top held in place by a metal cover which screws down over the neck of the jar. If the canning or sterilization is con- ducted properly, practically all of the air will be driven out of the jar by the steam. Upon cooling, this is condensed, a vacuum is formed on the inside which clamps down the glass top against the rubber ring and seals the jar automatic- ally. The metal cover can then be re- moved, as the pressure of the outside air will hold the glass top securely in place. Another type of jar in common use re- quires no rubber rings, but is fitted with a metal top, lacquered on both sides and having a groove around the lower edge. This groove contains a composition of the consistency of rubber which is melted during canning by the heat of the jar and forms a seal that takes the place of the rubber ring. These metal tops must be renewed each year, as it is necessary to puncture them in order to open the jar. The most satisfactory jar that the writ- er has had any experience with has a rub- ber ring and glass top which is held in place by a simple wire spring. There are several brands of these jars on the mar- ket, so no difficulty should be experienced in obtaining them. Vegetables often spoil after being sterilized because of defective rubbers. It is poor economy to buy cheap rubbers or to use them a second time. As a general rule black rubbers are more durable than white ones. Buy a good grade of jar. The best qual- ity usually retails at from a $1 to a $1.25 a dozen. The initial expense may be, therefore, somewhat high, but with proper care they should last many years. The annual breakage should be less than 3 per cent on the average. In selecting a jar always give preference to those having wide mouths. In canning whole fruit or vegetables and in cleaning the jars the wide mouth will be found to be decidedly preferable. Containers for Sterilizing The writer uses a tin clothes boiler with a false bottom made of wire netting cut to fit it. The netting is made of medium-sized galvanized wire (No. 16) with one-half inch mesh. A false bot- tom is absolutely necessary, as the jars will break if set flat upon the bottom of the boiler. Narrow strips of wood, straw, or almost anything of this nature may be used for the purpose, but the wire gauze is clean and convenient. There are several varieties of patent steamers or steam cookers in common use. These have either one or two doors and hold a dozen or more quart jars. They are ideal for canning, but they are somewhat expensive and can be easily dispensed with. A common ham boiler or clothes boiler with a tight-fitting cover will answer every purpose. Selection and Preparation of Vegetables The first step in successful canning is the selection and preparation of the vegetables. Never attempt to can any vegetable that has matured and com- menced to harden or one that has begun to decay. As a general rule, young vegetables are superior in flavor and tex- ture to the more mature ones. This is especially true of string beans, okra, and asparagus. Vegetables are better if gathered in the early morning while the dew is still on them. If it is impossible to can them immediately, do not allow them to wither, but put them in cold water or in a cold, damp place and keep them crisp until you are ready for them. Do your canning in a well-swept and well-dusted room. This will tend to re- duce the number of spores floating about and lessen the chances of inoculation. In the following pages are given in- structions for canning some of the more common vegetables, but the housewife can add to these at will. The principle of sterilization is the same for all meats, fruits, vegetables. Corn Contrary to the general opinion, corn is one of the easiest vegetables to can. The United States Department of Agri- culture has shown that the amount of 734 ENCYCLOPEDIA OP PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE sugar in the sweet varieties diminishes very rapidly after the ear is pulled from the stalk; therefore in order to retain the original sweetness and flavor it is neces- sary to can corn very soon after it is pulled — within an hour if possible. Se- lect the ears with full grains before they have begun to harden, as this is the period of greatest sugar content. Husk them and brush the silks off with a stiff brush. Shear off the grains with a sharp knife and pack the jar full. Add salt to taste, usually about a teaspoon- ful to the quart is sufficient, and fill up the jar to the top with cold water. Put the rubber ring around the neck of the jar and place the top on loosely. Be careful not to press down the spring at the side of the jar. Place the false bottom in the boiler and put in as many jars as the boiler will conveniently hold. Don't try to crowd them in. Leave space between them. Pour in about 3 inches of cold water, or just enough to form steam and to pre- vent the boiler from going dry during the boiling. It is not necessary to have the water up to the neck of the jars, as the steam will do the cooking. Put the cover on the boiler and set it on the stove. Bring the water to a boil and keep it boiling for one hour. At the end of that time remove the cover of the boiler and allow the steam to escape. Press down the spring at the side of the jar. This clamps on the top and will prevent any outside air from entering. The jars can now be removed and cooled or allowed to stand in the boiler until the next day. On the second day raise the spring at the side of the jar. This will relieve any pressure from steam that might accumu- late inside the jar during the second cook- ing. Place the jars again in the boiler and boil for one hour. Clamp on the top as on the preceding day and allow them to cool. Repeat this operation on the third day. In removing the jars from the boiler be careful not to expose them to a draft of cold air while they are hot, as a sudden change in tempera- ture is likely to crack them. After the sterilization is complete the jars may be set aside for a day or two and then tested. This is done by releas- ing the spring at the side and picking up the jar by the top. If there has been the least bit of decomposition, or if sterilization has not been complete, the top will come off. This is because the pressure on the top has been relieved by the gas formed by the bacteria. In this case it is always best to empty out the corn and fill up the jar with a fresh supply. If canning fruits or some ex- pensive vegetable, however, examine the contents of the jar and, if the decomposi- tion has not gone far enough to injure the flavor, place it once more in the boiler and sterilize over again. If the top does not come off, you may feel sure that the vegetable is keeping. String Beans Select young and tender beans, string them, and break them into short lengths. Pack firmly in the jar, cover with cold water, and add a teaspoon of salt to each quart. Put on the rubber and top and boil for one hour on each of three suc- cessive days, as directed under "Corn." A small pod of red pepper placed in the bottom of the jar will give a delightful flavor to this vegetable. Egg Plant Pare the egg plant, cut in thin slices, and drop in boiling water for fifteen or twenty minutes. Drain off the water and pack the slices in the jar. Cover with water and sterilize as directed under "Corn." The slices of egg plant are pli- able and may be taken from the jar without being broken and either fried in bread crumbs or made into pudding and baked. Beets Although beets will keep in the cellar over winter, it is very desirable to can them while they are young and tender, as the mature beet is apt to be stringy and lacking in flavor. Wash the young beets, cut off the tops, and put them in boiling water for about an hour and a half, or until they are thoroughly cook- ed. Take off the skins, cut in thin slices, and pack into the jars. Cover with water and sterilize in the manner previ- ously described. If a mild pickle is desired, make a mixture of equal parts CANNING VEGETABLES IN THE HOME 735 of water and good vinegar, sweeten to taste, and cover the beets with this mix- ture instead of water. Okra or Gumbo This is a vegetable worthy of more ex- tended culture. Although extensively grown in the South, it is comparatively unknown in the North. It is easily kept and makes a delicious vegetable for the winter. Wash the young and tender pods, cut them in short lengths, pack in the jars, cover with water and steril- ize. Okra is used for soups or stews. Summer Squash Cut the vegetables into small blocks, pack in the jars, and cover with water. Add a teaspoon of salt to each quart and sterilize. It is sometimes preferable with this vegetable, however, to pare off the skin, boil or steam until thoroughly done, mash them, and then pack in the jars and sterilize. If canned in the latter way, it is advisable to steam them for an hour and a half, instead of for an hour, on each of three days, as the heat pene- trates the jar very slowly. It is absolute- ly necessary that the interior of the jar should reach the temperature of boiling water. A jar will usually hold about twice as much of the cooked vegetable as it will of the uncooked. English Peas When prepared and canned in the prop- er way, peas are easily kept and never lose the delicate flavor that they possess when fresh. Shell the young peas, pack in jars, and sterilize as directed under "Corn." Asparagus Can the young tips only, in the same way as you would corn. Cauliflower This vegetable usually keeps very well, but if the supply for the winter should begin to spoil it may be necessary to can it during the summer. Prepare it as you would for the table, pack it into jars, and sterilize. Carrots and Parsnips These, if gathered during the early sum- mer and canned, make most excellent vegetables for the winter. The young plants at that season are not stringy and have not yet developed the strong taste that is so objectionable to some people. Prepare as you would for the table, and sterilize. Tomatoes Every housewife knows how to can tomatoes. They are very easily kept, even in the common screw-top jar. If one already has on hand a number of jars of this pattern, it is best to use them for preserves or for canning tomatoes and to purchase the more modern styles for can- ning other vegetables. In using the screw-top jars be careful to sterilize them first by placing in cold water, bringing to a boil, and boiling for about ten min- utes. The rubber and top should also be immersed in boiling water for the same length of time. Remove them from the boiling water when needed, handling as little as possible. Be careful not to put the fingers on the inside of the top or the inner edge of the rubber. Fill the jar with the cooked tomatoes while steaming hot, put on the rubber, screw on the top firmly, invert it, and let it stand in that position until cool. Kohl-Rabi This vegetable resembles the turnip in its habits of growth, although in flavor it more nearly approaches the cauliflower. It is grown in many sections of the North, but in the South it is almost unknown. Prepare it as you would turnips, pack in the jar, and sterilize. Lima Beans Lima beans lose their flavor very quick- ly after being shelled; therefore it is necessary to can them as soon as possible after gathering. Discard all pods that have begun to harden, and proceed as you would with corn. Pumpkin or Winter Squash If provided with a warm, dry cellar, one may keep certain varieties of these vege- tables all winter. Some of the best varie- ties, however, do not keep well, and even the best keepers when not properly housed begin to decay in December or January. It is then necessary to can them in order to save them. If one has a limited number of jars, it is a good plan to fill them all with other vegetables dur- 736 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE ing the summer and upon the approach of frost to gather the pumpkins and bring them indoors. By the time the pumplvins begin to spoil, enough jars will be emptied to hold them. They can now be steam- ed and canned in the same way as sum- mer squash. In this way a supply of jars may be made to do double service. Succotash The writer has found that a mixture of corn and lima beans, or succotash, is one of the most difficult things to keep. This furnishes one of the very best mediums for bacterial growth; so extreme care must be taken in the process of canning. It is advisable to gather the corn and beans early in the morning and prepare and sterilize them in the manner ah-eady described. As with summer squash, it is best to boil for an hour and a half, in- stead of for an hour. Vegetable Roast A rather unusual dish for the winter may be made by canning a mixture of vegetables. Prepare corn, lima beans, to- matoes, string beans, okra, squash, and egg plant as you would for canning sepa- rately. Mix these in varying proportions, letting the corn and lima beans predom- inate. Add two or three midium-sized onions to each quart of this mixture and run all through a food chopper in order to mix it thoroughly. Pack into jars and sterilize. In preparing for the table mix with an equal volume of bread crumbs, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and one egg; season to taste with pepper and salt, and bake in a round bak- ing dish until brown. Cut into slices as you would a cake and serve hot with a drawn butter sauce. Corn, okra, and tomatoes, mixed in equal proportions, may be canned in this way as a soup stock. Freshness of Flavor and Color Vegetables when canned properly should retain their attractive color and lose very little of their flavor. It will be found almost impossible to detect any difference either in taste or in appear- ance between the canned and the fresh article if these directions are carefully followed. The volatile oils which give flavor to most vegetables are not lost dur- ing this process of sterilization. Cook- ing for three short periods in a closed container at a comparatively low temper- ature instead of cooking for one short period at a high temperature or for one long period in an open vessel makes the vital difference and insures freshness of flavor and color. After the jars have been sterilized and tested, they should be kept in the dark, as the sunlight will soon destroy the color of the vegetable. How to Open a Jar Jars of vegetables are sometimes hard to open, unless it is done in just the right way. Run a thin knife blade under the rubber, next to the jar, and press against it firmly. This will usually let in enough air to release the pressure on the top. In case it does not, place the jar in a deep saucepan of cold water, bring to a boil, and keep it boiling for a few minutes. The jar will then open easily. Cautions These directions for canning apply only to pint and quart jars. If half-gallon jars are used, always increase the time of boil- ing, making it an hour and a half in- stead of one hour. Do not go into canning too deeply at first. Experiment with a few jars in the early part of the season and see if they keep well. It is not a difficult matter to can vegetables properly. The writer has never lost a can of string beans, okra, egg plant, carrots, parsnips, lima beans, beets, asparagus, or pumpkin in several years' experience and, has had only one can of peas spoil, a few cans of corn during the earlier trials, and a few cans of succotash. Any housewife can do equally well. If you follow the direc- tions here given carefully, you will have no difficulty whatever. If you should hap- pen to fail in the first trial, rest assur- ed that you have done something wrong or left something undone. No housewife who has on hand during the winter a supply of home-canned vegetables ready to serve on ten minutes' notice will ever regret the trouble or difficulties exper- ienced in learning. j. p. Beazeale. Bureau of Chemistry. U. S. Department of Agriculture. CANNING VEGETABLES IN THE HOME 737 Amount aiid Value of Cauued and Dried Fruit * PRODUCT 1909 Total value $157,101,201 Fruits and Verjetahles. Value $86,422,383 Canned Vegetables : Cases 32,8.34.820 Value $51,568,914 Tomatoes — Cases 12,980,818 Value $18,747,941 Corn — Cases 7,451,265 Value $10,332,136 Peas — Cases 5,001,703 Value $10,247,363 Beans — Cases 3,393,200 Value $6,013,098 Asparagus — Cases 229,742 Value $1,975,775 Pumpkins — Cases 438,426 Value $576,043 Sweet Potatoes — Cases 347,186 Value $531,651 All Other — Cases 2,092.470 Value $3,144,907 Canned Fruits : Cases 5,461,233 • Value $12,938,474 Peaches — Cases 1,484,808 Value $3,753,698 Apples — Cases 1.205.774 Value $1,898,720 Apricots — Cases 562,811 Value $1,825,311 Peas — Cases 641,291 Value $1.833!214 Berries — Cases 830,324 Value $1,783,026 Cherries — Cases 382.116 Value $990,914 All Other- Cases 354.109 Value $853,591 Dried Fruits — Pounds 484.328.767 Value .$21,914,995 Raisins — Pounds 195.774.767 Value $0.91 2.533 Prunes — Pounds 1 38.498.400 Value $5.130.41 2 Apples — Pounds 44,568 244 Value . .$3,098,005 Peaches — Pounds 46,843,301 Value $2,423,083 Apricots — Pounds 29,205 560 Value $2,277,177 All Other- Pounds 29.4^8.306 Value $2,073,605 Of factory dried fruit California produced $18,212,316. or ot this class of products. ' ♦Census Bulletin of Manufactures, 1913. 2—6 in the United States 1904 $130,465,976 $72,998,756 29,579,616 $45,610,993 9,411,084 $14,020,846 11.209.507 $15,952,386 4,694,402 $7,928,791 2.588,015 $4,133,810 1899 $99,335,464 $44,802,665 19,323,730 $28,734,598 8,700,538 $13,666,560 6,336,984 $8,191,383 2,543,722 $4,465,673 1,493,517 $2,025,123 246,557 $346,497 138,078 $202,404 192.997 $284,385 83,526 $124,245 1.236.874 $2,944,278 27,365 $59,210 4,628,241 $11,722,979 4.467,817 $11,311,062 1,304,867 $3,902,441 1,449.350 $4,283,165 400 341 $738,013 645,762 $1,125,119 530.815 $1,641,919 531 ,648 $1,583,252 780,120 $2,192,910 672.485 $2,188,201 480,637 $1,058,650 600.419 $1,002,075 310,350 $825,522 114.367 $307,788 605.111 $1,363,515 453.780 $730,502 343,570.623 $15,664,784 85.439,406 $4,757,005 121.400.881 $6,340,381 14,984. r21 $1,062,268 117.808.181 $3,200,628 25.413.763 $970,027 40.7'!7.0S0 $1,758,610 33.212.300 $1,906,642 25.861 .074 $1,702,205 5.662.390 $312,495 19. .'-,.-0.573 $1,410,838 5.465,217 $455,394 18. 20?. 825 $1,144,122 701.500 $40.1'76 83.1 per cent of the total value 738 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE Cantaloup Culture Introduction The cantaloup in its season is prob- ably the most popular fruit on the Amer- ican table, appearing prominently on every first-class menu. The total consumption in the United States, amounting to ten thousands of carloads, besides the local home-grown product which can hardly be estimated, indicates an industry of great impor- tance. From the growers' standpoint, however, the story of the melon industry is filled with disappointment and failures, diffi- culties and disheartening returns, which are all but discouraging at times, yet each season some growers are making a decided success of the crop, either through a better experience, more fa- voi'able conditions, or exceptional oppor- tunities. Although the grower himself may not always realize the determining elements of his success yet to a careful observer it is evident that many of the factors that cause failures in cantaloupes could be overcome by a better grasp of essential points; for instance, a better knowledge of the experience of other growers, a fuller understanding of the needs of the markets, the best methods of harvesting and handling the crop, and the most favorable system of mar- keting for the highest returns. The various cantaloup districts of the United States have been canvassed for any new Information on cantaloupes, and this information has been embodied in this article covering the most essential points in regard to good seed, cultural care, harvesting and marketing, also ex- perience and suggestions on insects and plant diseases. Points for Commercial Growers to Consider In order that preparation may be made for a better appreciation and understand- ing of some of the determining factors that may result in success or failure in cantaloup growing consideration is asked of the following questions: First, Are your seasons long enough, and the climatic conditions favorable for cantaloup growing? Second, Are you accessible to markets, or good railroad facilities? Third, Will your cantaloupes come in competition with those from other dis- tricts and cause a glutted market? Fourth, Have you some peculiar advan- tages which will enable you to meet com- petition? Fifth, Have you had experience in han- dling cantaloupes, and do you realize that it requires under favorable condi- tions 100 to 150 acres to profitably ship in carload lots? Sixth, Have you any marketing agencies to assist in disposing of your crop, or will you depend upon open consignments? Seventh, Have you considered your market demands as to varieties, and do you know what strains of seed would be best adapted to your conditions? Eighth, What importance do you place on good seed breeding? Do you know that common, ordinary seed may produce as fine specimens as the best seed, but that the well bred seed tvill produce a greater per cent of uniform, marketable cantaloupes? Ninth, Are you aware that the highest grade of seed can not insure you a crop under adverse conditions, of weather, poor soil or careless management? Tenth, Do you realize that one failure, or even several, does not prove that suc- cess is not possible? It is not our purpose to call attention to all the possibilities of failures nor sug- gest all the points of encouragement, but if a grower can realize the essential CANTALOUP CULTURE 739 points, we feel that the cantaloup in- dustry will be on a more stable footing. In the first place the large acreage for an individual grower should be discouraged, except in the special canta- loupe growing districts where growers have had experience in handling large acreages. If a large acreage is required to make carload shipments, it would be best to have an aggregation of a large number of small acreages handled by in- dividuals working in co-operation. Specialized cantaloup growing has been made a success in a few localities by a large number of growers, but has been attended with ups and downs, of over- production and glutted markets. But thei'e is a great opportunity for a few growers in a great many localities to specialize in cantaloupes, to work up a fancy trade, and to study to cater to that trade and supply them with only the best, that will result in success where now only indif- ferent results are secured. The grower who considers only the producing side of the industry has not measured one- half of the question, for marketing to a profit is the biggest side. The Importance of Good Seed It is often argued that seed saved from over-ripe cantaloupes are just as good for seed, which on first thought might seem true, but why is a cantaloup over- ripe, when the fields have been picked over twice each day as they should be? It is true it may have been overlooked, but more probably the majority of "over- ripes" are so because there is an inherent weakness toward rapid ripening, in real- ity a poor keeping quality; hence if we plant seed saved from over-ripe canta- loupes that are culled from where the bulk of the cantaloupes are marketed, we are propagating just the traits that we do not want in our cantaloupes for market. Seed breeding means more than the selection of seed from an average crop: that would tend only to produce average results. The same laws that govern the breed- ing of animals also control the improve- ment of plants. Any fair-minded man will acknowledge that thoroughbred ani- mals are more profitable than scrubs, or even average stock, and the same is true of plants. But we must get the true con- ception of seed selection — not the idea of the uninformed farmer who, with his wife spent their evenings for many days selecting seed corn from a lot of shelled corn that he had purchased for feed. The man who selects his cantaloupe seed at the packing shed is almost as far wrong, for the plant that produced the seed has not been considered. Nature makes selections that the grower may often overlook; for instance, cool nights and a short season will act as a natural selection to develop the early ma- turing types, hence the seed from the arid region in high altitudes has proven to be superior to seed growing in the humid sections, both for vigor and early maturity. The big cantaloup growers from California and the Southern states realize this, for they look to Rocky Ford each year for their cantaloup seed, and all testify that they get earlier and more uniform cantaloupes from the Rocky Ford grown seed. Yet because cantaloupes from Colorado are the last to appear on the markets, some might suppose that the seed from there would be late in maturing, when in fact the very opposite is true. Some Points That Seeds Will Kot Orercome Poor results are often attributed to poor seed, which is doubtless often the case, but there is evidence to show that complaints about seed may sometimes be made when the trouble is due to other causes; for instance, two fields may be planted with the same stock of seed, but having different soil fertility, or cultural care, may show widely different results in yield, size and uniformity of the crop. As for example, a grower in Texas who complained that certain seed pro- duced too many "jumbo" sizes, while from Southwest Arkansas another complaint from the same strain of seed was to the effect that the cantaloupes were running too small, yet this grower admitted that 740 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE dry weather checked his vines some- what. Some people seem to think that the crop should show absolute uniformity; this is next to impossible, although a study of the ideal representations and the elaborate descriptions in some of the seed catalogues might convey this im- pression. The fact is, cantaloupes do vary even in the best strains of seed; one can frequently find on one vine, one canta- loup that is very long, while another may be short and round: this is especially true if the vine has made an unusual growth on account of rich soil or other favorable conditions. The size of the cavity, the development of the netting, and the appearance of the cantaloupes will vary on different types of soil to some extent, and differ- ent seasons will lead the grower to think that the seed was not up to standard of the year before when the seed was equally good, but the season was not as favorable in some respects that this grower overlooks. The same seed out of the same sack has been planted on different days, one just before a rain that was cold and the other after it had warmed up; one came up slowly, small and puny, while the other made a fine growth. Any influence that tends to retard or stimulate the groivth of the vines will also, in some way or another, affect the results of the crop: such influence may not be serious, possibly only a few over- sized melons, making packing a little more difficult, but one must expect some variations due to environment. These may be favorable or unfavorable, and they may or may not be tinder the con- trol of the grower. There is a long list of these factors — character of the soil, fertility, moisture supply, climate, insect pests, plant diseases, and cultural care; all of these must be considered and con- trolled, if possible, if we would secure the greatest uniformity in results. Heredity of the seed is another great factor influencing results and one that is often difficult to determine since there are always the two forces, environynent and heredity, at work, and which of these causes has produced a given effect will often be the question. The only fair way to pass judgment up- on the merits of a certain stock of seed is to compare its results with those of other seed under exactly the same conditions. It is the only m,eans of reading heredity in any system of plant breeding. The methods of plant breeding for the differ- ent crops are essentially the same, name- ly, a nursery test of the seed from in- dividual plants, selected for given traits, and which are then grown under uni- form conditions to determine their rela- tive merit. Method of Developing High Grade Seeds The method is to select a large number of individuals, save the seed sep- arately and plant in adjacent plats at the same time, under as uniform condi- tions as possible, to test out their breed- ing tendencies — this is called a nursery test. The individual plant is the unit of variation, and hence should always be made the unit of selection. The results of systematic seed selection have clearly shown that there is a wide variation in different plants from even fairly pure seed, and that the more nearly a strain of seed can be the progeny from a single plant, the more uniform and strong its hereditary tendencies will be, provided that the individual plant is not a hybrid, in which case it may break up into a variety of types; but even in long es- tablished strains of pure bred seed there is still the continual "reverting" or "breed- ing back," so that it is not uncommon to find a cantaloup that is a little "off," so if the general average of the crop is l)retty imiformly true, one need not sus- pect a mixture by the appearance of a little variation. Sometimes a variation is along very desirable lines, for there are numerous instances where the selection of the seed from a single plant that seemed differ- ent, has been the beginning of a new strain much superior to the original; such was the history of the disease-re- sistant Pollock cantaloui), while the CANTALOUP CULTURE 741 Ryan's Early Watters was started from a single early maturing plant. There is plenty of seed saving, but comparatively little seed selection along systematic lines, and there is still less seed breeding for improved hereditary traits. Usually twenty-five hills are planted in each plat, and all are given uniform conditions that the differences that may develop may reasonably be as- cribed to heredity, and the new selec- tions made accordingly. A number of the choicest individual fruits from the most desirable plats are again saved for the next year's nursery test, and the plats that run most uni- formly alike along desirable lines, are then cut for stock seed. In this way the weak traits and undesirable tend- encies of anj" individual plant may be eliminated more and more each year, while the strong desirable traits are re- tained and thus the average uniformity gradually increased as far as possible. It will readily be seen that it requires the same care to maintain a grade of quality that it did to build it up in the first place, the tendency to deteriorate being always present. The first nursery grown, before the seed had been bred up much, would have the appearance of a large checker board, because of the many variations. Some would be disease-resistant and some not; some would be early and some late; some prolific and others not, while in netting, color of the flesh, and the size and form of the fruit, the contrasts would be also very marked. Aside from improving and combining desirable traits, the nursery test for can- taloupes has another strong point of merit, namely, keeping the stock seed pure. It is evident that if seed from individual cantaloupes are planted sep- arately in different plats, it would be easy for a keen observer to detect the presence of a hybrid and thus eliminate that plant from being saved for stock seed. So marked have been the results and advantages of the breeding from individ- ual plants to secure uniformity and de- sirable traits, that no one who has fol- lowed it up intelligently can doubt the efficiency of the method; but at the same time it is very evident that it takes care and a good deal of time to accomplish results which at first may seem easy. Seed breeding is practical; it is not a theory or a fancy, but a reasonable, re- sult-producing process. The most success- ful farmers are giving it careful consid- eration, nor does the improvement of seed add a burden of labor and expense, but comes as an added asset to the grower's wealth, and increases his pride in his crop. Comparatively few men are capable of producing their seed for if they are grow- ing cantaloupes for market, their time and attention must be occupied with the crop, and to select, cut and cure high- grade cantaloup seed requires no little training and experience, and some little equipment. The grower who buys his seed should deal directly with a reliable breeder who is qualified, and is making a specialty of growing the crop for seed; a grower should not submit his seed order for "loivest bid" if he expects to get the best seed. Conditions and Cultural Care Climate The cantaloup seems to thrive in rather a wide range of soil and climatic conditions, being grown to some extent in almost all of the states, although from the standpoint of money returns, the area of very successful cantaloup culture is somewhat limited; yet it appears that it is more the question of cultural care, disease and insect pests, or favorable marketing facilities, which determine the success of the industry in a given local- ity, rather than the specific soil or cli- matic conditions. Climatic conditions within certain lim- its are essential to successful cantaloup culture, and the consideration of this topic may answer many questions as to the adaptability of some sections for melon growing. First, there should be a long, hot summer, with about five months free from killing frosts, with a 742 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE daily maximum temperature between 80 and 95 degrees during June, July and August, with a night temperature seldom falling below 60 degrees; four months may mature good cantaloupes, but with so short a season frost would probably cut short the profits of the crop, unless, as is done in some of the Northern states having too short season, the plants are started under frames in sods or paper bands; second, there should be plenty of bright sunshine, without excessive rain- falls; this will secure good quality and lessen liability to attacks of fungus trou- bles that are so often fatal to the melon crop in rainy sections or regions of heavy dews; without doubt the clear bright sun- shine and the arid conditions of South- eastern Colorado account for the high flavor and the fine qualities found in the Rocky Ford cantaloupes as compared with the poor quality in the cantaloupes with an abnormal rain fall, which some- times occurs. Sunlight is very essential to the full development of cantaloupes, for the qual- ity is perceptibly inferior in shaded spots; the dry atmospheric conditions cause rapid transpiration of the moisture from the leaves, thus inducing a quick move- ment of sap or plant juices which in- creases the power to carry and deposit plant foods, thus developing and concen- trating the spice of flavor and producing the very highest qualities. We do not recommend cantaloupes to be planted in an orchard where there is any shade to speak of, as they will not do well. I'lato N