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AN

EPITOME

OF

MR. FORSYTH'S TREATISE

ON THE

CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT

OF

FRUIT-TREES.

ALSO,

NOTES ON AMERICAN GARDENINO AND FRUITS
WITH DESIGNS FOR PROMOTING THE RIPEN-
ING OF FRUITS, AND SECURING THEM
AS FAMILT COMFORTS :

AND rURTHER,

OF ECONOMICAL PRINCIPLES IN BUILDING
FARMERS' HABITATIONS.

MiniUm

BY AN AMERICAN FARMER,

PHILADELPHIA:

PRINTED BY T. L. PLOWMAN,

FOR JOHN MORGAN, NO. 26, BOUTH THIRD-
STREET.

1803.

I

ADVERTISEMENT.

THERE is a difference respecting country
habitations as they are recommended by the au-
thor of essays and notes on husbandry, and what is
said of country habitations in this work. The for-
mer was written upon the happening of certain
events, which seem to have induced a hasty recom-
mendation of the principles on which to build coun-
try habitations, with the especial purpose of effec-
tually guarding against their being destroyed by
fiia2, and also particularly for preventing their be-
ing easily broke into by force or surprise. At
first, it was published singly, in a pamphlet ; and
afterwards inserted in the volume of collected es-
says and notes on husbandry. The present editor
being to recommend a mode of building country
habitations upon more enlarged principles, and that

ADVERTISEMENT.

will be the most suitable to farms in America, in
particular; some considerable alterations are de-
signed, for rendering the American farmers' habi-
tations not only secure against fire, but also the best
adapted to the business and employments of far-
mers, and the habits and manners of country peo-
ple ; at the same time that, in certain situations,
that form of building may be preferred, and the air-
holes in the recesses occasionally applied in the de-
fence of the doors and windows, against outrages
of burglars, as far as the perfectly square angles of
a building will admit of it.

The editor has condensed this work, that it
might not run into a high price : but the author's
thirteen plates of engravings could not be omitted,
and it is hope^, the two plates now added will be
satisfactory in illustrating 'the subjects they relate
to — These articles of expence could not be avoided.

9JF /^.*df-y ur/t^

A TREATISE

CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT

FRUIT-TREES, &c.

OF APRICOTS.

The names and qualities of Apricots commonly ciilti'
vated in Engla?id, ^c.

JL HE Masculine Apricot is small and round ; the
earliest in ripening, about the end of ^uly, in Eng-
land. It is chiefly esteemed for its tart taste. Red to-
wards the sun ; a greenish yellow on the other side.
The Orange : large, but rather dry and insipid :
fitter for tarts than for the table : a deep yellow co-
lour when ripe, the latter end of August. It is
considered the best for preserving, in England. The
Algiers: a flatted, oval shaped fruit; a straw co-
lour, juicy, and high flavour. Ripens the middle
of August, in England. — The Roman: larger than
the Algiers, rounder ; of a deep yellow, and not
quite so juicy. Ripe the middle or end of August,
in England. The Turkey : larger than the Ro-

xAtmry

s^^--.v^^.V

( 2 )

man ; sharper, more globular, flesh firmer and dri-
er : ripens the end of August, in England. The
^r(?fi^^ is large, round, and deep yellow : the flesh
soft and juicy : an excellent fruit. Ripe the end
of August, in England. The Brussels : in very
great esteem ; bearing well on standards and
large dwarfs. The fruit, a middling size, red
towards the sun, with many dark spots; of a
greenish yellow on the other side. It has a brisk
flavor; not mealy or doughy. On a wall, ri-
pens in August ; but not till the end of September
in standards, in England. Moor-park, called also,
Anson's, Temple's, and Dunmore's Breda : a
fine fruit; ripens end of August, in England.
The Peach-apricot: the finest and largest of all
apricots ; ripens in August, in England. The
Black-apricot : highly esteemed in France : this is
also called the Alexandrian apricot ; and, says For-
syth, it will prove an acquisition in England.

Mr. Forsyth then gives, a regular succession of
fruit for accommodating those who have small gar-
dens, from the larger selections ; retaining only the
best kinds ; of which one or two trees of a sort
may be planted, according to the wants of families.
The likeselection he appliesto other fruits — peaches,
plums, pears, &:r. -n^^^ij

( 3 )

A SELECTION OF APRICOTS FOR
A SMALL GARDEN.

The Masculine ; the Roman ; the Orange ; the
Breda ; and the Moor- Park.

Of Plantings Primings and Training Apricots^ in
England.
PLANT in autumn^ soon as the leaf begins to fall.
Choose from the nursery, those having the strong-
est and cleanest stems. If they have been previ-
ously headed dov/n, of two or three years growth,
they w ill bear, and fill up, sooner than others. —
Prefer them with one stem. If there be two stems,
cut away one, however fair.

The borders wherein the trees are to be planted,
if new, are to be made two and a half, or three feet
deep, of good, light, fresh loam. If to be planted
where trees had stood, it may be proper to take
Out the old mould, at least three feet deep and four
feet wide, filling up with fresh loam ; and plant the
trees eight inches higher than the level of the old
border, to allow for sinking of the earth, that they
may not be too deep in the ground ; but more of
this in treating of Pear-trees.

( 4 )

When the trees are planted, by no means head
them down till Jpril or May, when they begin to
throw out fresh shoots. Cut siroiig trees, a foot
from the ground ; the v:eak ones, about half that
length.

In backward seasons, head dowji not so early ;
never till the buds are fairly broken ; alM'ays cut
sloping (towards the wall, if a wall is intended,)
and as near to an eye as possible, that the young
leading shoot may cover the cut, [pi. I. fig. 1.]
which operation should be again performed in the
ensuing March or April. The shoots that are then
thi'own out are to be trained horizontally, to cover
the Mall. The number to be left may be three to
six on each side, according to the strength of the
main shoot. With finger and thumb rub off the
foreright shoots all over the tree, except a few, if
wanted, to fill up the wall, near the body of it.
[pi. I. fig. 1.]

In the second year shorten the horizontal shoots
in the sanie manner, according to their g^o^vth ; —
and so on, every year, till the ivall is completely
covered from top to bottom.

( 5 )

Some gai-deners head dow n the trees at the time
of plaming ; which often proves fatal to them.

Where large branches have been cut off, from
fuU-groivn trees, in a careless manner, and the
wounds left to nature, the ^vhole tree is infected
with the gum and canker. In which case, to save
or restore the tree's fruitfulness and health, pare off
the cankered part of the bark v, ith a draw-knife.
Often the white, inner bark, is found infected,
which also is to be cut away ; not leaguing a single
brown or black spot ; which are like dots made with
a pen.

All the branches so cut and pared, are instantly
to be ccoered with the composition in a liquid state :
the preparation and application wherecf, see post.
Wherever the knife has been used, the composi-
tion tnust be immediately applied.

I have, says Mr. Forsyth, a great dislike to au-
tumnal pruning of fruit-trees ; especially of stone
fruit. By pruning these, the canker is apt to fol-
low it. In the spring, when the sap begins to flow,
and will foUon- the knife, the lips will quickly
grow.

( 6 )

Covering apricots (and other fruit-trees) will
prevent the blossom from destruction by frost,
cutting winds, &c. In severe weather cover them
before the Jiowers begin to expand ; for they often
drop off before they are opened.

The best covering is old fsh-nets, put on three-
fold ; with a few branches of dry fern, stuck in
among the branches before the nets are put on-
They assist greatly in breaking high winds. The
practice of covering with mats in the night, and
taking them off in the day, is injurious in exposing
the trees frequently to the cutting winds. Cover-
ing with branches of spruce fir, is also injurious,
from being too close, and promoting the curl of the
leases of the trees, and the shoots to break very
weak ; whereas the nets admit of a free circulation
of air, 3'ct break the force of the winds. It rains
or sno\\ s, sometimes, in the forepart of the night,
and freezes towards morning ; the drops are then
found hanging in icicles on the meshes, while the
tree is almost dry.

In England, a west aspect is reckoned preferable
for the general crop. A ^cw trees they plant on a
South aspect, for an early supply ; and for a late
supply, a few on an cast aspect.

( 7 )

*

PLUMS,

Selected by Mr. Forsyth for a small garden, in Eng-
land; ivith certain notices on their culture, yc.

there.
THE selection recommended by Mr. Forsyth for
his small garden, consists of — The Jaunhative ;
Early Damask ; Orleans ; La Royal ; Green Gage
(sorts) ; Draps d'Or ; Saint Catherine, and Impe-
ratrice. The Magnum Bonum, for baking ; and
the Winesour, for preserving.

Of the Jaunhatiije, Mr. Forsyth observes, it is
a small plum (by some called White Prismordian),
of a yellow colour, and mealy. Ripe, the end of
July, or first of August. One tree, he says, is
sufficient for a garden.

The Early Damask, commonly called the Mo-
rocco Plum, is middle sized, the flesh good. Ri-
pens in early August.

The Red Orleans, is large; rich juice. Ripe end
of August.

La Royal; a fine Plum, equal to the Green
Gage ; but a shy bearer ; of a red colour. Ripens
late in September.

( 8 )

Green Gage ; several varieties, and all good. Is

of an exquisite taste ; — eats like a sweetmeat. Its

colour and size distinguish it from any other. Ri-
pens in August and September.

Drap d'Or is a good Plum — a plentiful bearer.
Ripe late in September.

Saint Catherine Plum is one of the best — much
used in confectionary ; also very good for the tAble,
having a rich sweet juice ; and is a good bearer,
hanging the longest of any upon the tree : some-
times six weeks in gathering. Ripens late in Sep-
tember.

The Impcratricc^ or Empress Plum, has an agree-
able flavor : Ripens the middle of October. This
is one of the latest Plums — should not be gathered
till it begins to shrivel ; it will then eat like a sweet-
meat, and make a great addition to the table in the
latter end of October and beginning of Noiiember.

On tlie choice^ plantings pruning^ ^c. of Plum-
Trees, sec those treated of under Apricots, ante.
If there are any tap-roots, cut them off; and also
tlic fine hairy roots, they being liable to become

( 9 )

mouldy and rot. If the roots, says Mr. Forsyth,
are not spread near the surface of the ground, it will
prevent the sun and air from penetrating to them ;
and the fruit, of course, will not have so fine a fla-
vour.

Never cut the stems of young Pkim-trees when
first planted, but leave them till the buds begin to
break ; then they may be headed down to five or
more eyes, always observing to leave an odd one
for the leading shoot : observing to cut sloping to-
wards the wall, and as near to an eye as possible.

Speaking of the distance between the trees, Mr.
Forsyth says, Plum-trees should be planted accord-
ing to the height of the wall, (when not a standard.)
If the wall be ten feet high (the common height),
they may be planted eight yards distance from tree
to tree. If the Mall be tM elvc feet high, or more,
seven yards will suffice.

By training an upright shoot on the Plums, as
for Pears, there will be gained fine kind shoots
from the sides. Shorten the leading shoot, lead-
ing it one to two feet long, according to its strengtii.

( 10 )

Plum-trees intended for standards^ (as the cU-
niate of America prefers for all fruit-trees, not ab-
solutely exotic), Mr. Forsyth recommends should
in England, be prepared as follows : — The yea'
before they are meant to be transplanted^ cut in th(
side shoots at different lengths, from one foot t(
three, according to the size of the trees ; sufferin.t
them to grow rude all the summer, without rail
ing-in nor cutting the side and foreright shoots
Sometimes during w inter open the ground roum
their roots, and cut in the strong ones (for promo
ting the putting forth fine young fibres) ; then fil
in the eiu'th. In the following autumn, or durin^
the winter (the sooner the better), transplant them
out, as standards. He considers it to be of great
consequence, in transplanting trees, especially if
largtj, that they be placed in the same position, that
is, having the same parts facing the same points of
the compass as formerl}\ When a tree is cut down,
three parts in four of the growth, appear on the
north side. If, however, it is intended to plant
them against a wall^ never cut the side shoots, says
Mr. Forsyth, h\iX.o?dy the roots ; by v/hich the trees
will bear fruit the iirst year after transplantii^g.

( 11 )

The ground in the borders and quarters should
be well trenched, two spits deep, where fresh trees
are to be planted ; to give the roots room to run in-
to the fresh stirred ground.

Plum-trees, as standards, in an orchard to be
kept for grass, should be in rows twenty yards from
each other, says Mr. F. — If in the kitchen garden,
as standards, he recommends that they be dvjarfs.
They may be trained up to have a stem three feet
high, at the distance of seventeen yards.

D^warf standards can be kept to the size you
please. They look much handsomer than Espali-
ers, and produce a greater quantity of fruit.

In cold, frosty weather, cover Plums in the same
manner as Apricots, as above. They are more
tender than other sorts of stone fruit ; the flower-
cup dropping sooner.

Do not thin the fruit too soon, lest it be pinched
by the cold. The fruit is to be the size of a small
marble, and well sheltered by the leaves, before it
be thinned.

( 12 )

PEACHES,

Selected by Mr. Forsyth, for a small garden in Eng-
land; "iuith his observations on their culture ^ ^c.
THE selection of peaches for a small garden, in
England ; consists of, the Early Avant ; Small
Mignonne; the Ann Peach ; Royal George; Royal
Kensington ; Noblesse ; Early Newington ; Gal-
lande ; Early Purple ; Chancellor ; Nivette ; the
Catherine ; the Late Newington.

The Early Avant has an agreeable flavor ; ripens
in Augusty early.

The Small Mignonne, is very red next the sun ;
the flesh has a rich vinous juice : It is ripe about
the middle of August.

The Ann Peach, a fine early fruit : ripens the
middle or end of August.

The Boyal George, comes in soon after the Ann,
The flower large and white : the fruit a dark red
towards the sun, and full of a fine rich juice. Ri-
pens the end of August.

( 13 ) .

The Royal Kensington^ is one of the best peaches
in England. Of a high red colour next the sun ;
yellowish next the wall : a good bearer, not apt to
be blighted. The flesh is full of rich juice. Ripens
near the end of August or early in September.

The Noblesse^ large ; of a bright red colour to-
wards the sun : the flesh melting, and the juice very
rich. A good bearer ; ripens the beginning of Sep-
tember.

Early Newifigton, beautiful red towards the sun,
full of a sugary juice : ripens beginning o^ September.

The Gallande or Bellegarde ; is \ery large, a deep
purple towards the sun ; the flesh melting and full
of aver}' rich juice. " This is a fine peach;" ripens
the middle of September.

The Early Purple^ This fruit is large ; of a fine
red colour, and full of rich vinous juice. Is an ex-
cellent peach : ripens about the middle of August.

The Chancellor^ one of the best sort of peaches ;
of a fine red next the sun; the skin is thin, the flesh
melting, the juice very rich. Ripens, beginning of
September.

( 14 )

The NhettCy of a bright red next the sun ; yellow-
kh cast towards the wall ; the flesh melting, and
full of a rich juice. An excellent peach: ripens
the middle of September.

The Catherine^ a fine large peach : a round make,
and beautifully red towards the sun. The flesh is
melting, and full of rich juice. " The pulp is im-
proved by lying three or four days before it is eaten'*
(says Mr. F.) Ripens about the latter end of Octo-
ber ; but there are not many situations where it ri-
pens well. Is a plentiful bearer.

The Old Nevjhigton, is of a fine red colour ; has
a high vinous tasted juice, and esteemed a good
Pavie (clingstoned.) Ripens, the e?id of September.

Planting, Pruning, Training, ^c. Peaches in
England.
Peaches require alighter soil than Pears and Plums.
A light mellow loam is best. In the choice of Peach
Trees, as to health, 8^c. see of Apricots, &c. Pro-
cure them the end of October or early in Noiiembcr,
as soon as the leaf begins to fall ; and best that the
ground be ready before hand. It is a great hurt
to fruit trees when planted too deep. They should
be kept up aboDC the level of the old ground, at first,

( 15 )

when planted, water the roots to settle the mould,
letting it remain some days till the water is absorbed :
then J tread the mould, and fill the holes up to the top ;
observing the same rules as before given in case of
dry weather, letting the fresh planted trees remain
unpruned till the spring.

When the buds begin to shoot, if they be of
maiden trees of one years growth, head\\i^vi\ to five
or more eyes, according to their strength : then rub
on a little of the composition^ where the top is cut
off, cutting it sloping, as before said, and as near the
top buds as may be ; and also rub off the fore-right
shoots. If the leading shoot be very strong, pinch
off its top, the beginning of June. It prevents the
shoots growing too long in the first and second years,
by pinchmg their ends : but they should not be
topped^ ^^ hen the tree sends out fine kind shoots,
till the spring following^ when they are to be pruned,
according to the strength of the tree, and the quan-
tity of wood it has made during the preceding sum-
mer, leaving the shoots from six to twelve inches
long ; for soon filling the lower part of the wall. If
is too common to lov in the shoots at f«ll tenQ-th,
taking off only the points of the branches; which in
a fev/ years is apt to leave the u all naked : but if

' ( 16 )

attention be paid to the training, especially for the
first four years the walls could always be filled with
fine bearing wood from top to bottom, and the trees
could produce a deal more fruit, of a finer qua-
lity, than when they are run up in the former way ;
for those trees are so weak, sometimes, as not to
have strength to bear good fruit. The third year,
with summer attentions, they may be brought
into a bearing state. If from very strong ground
they gro\\ very vigorously, the strong shoots should
be pinched about Jiine^ for making them throw out
side shoots ; and if not laid in too thick, thev will
make fine bearing wood for the next year. If the
strong shoots are suffered to grow their full length,
they will be large and spongy ; and produce neither
fruit nor good wood for the following year. Weak
shoots, altho* full of blossoms, never bear good
fruit. Suffering trees to be once 'weakened from abun-
dance of fruity they never can recover. In such
cases, pick oft' the fruit, that the tree may recover.
[See pi. III. Fig. 2.]

( 17 )

When Peaches come into a bearing state, in
general, there will be soon two flower-buds^ and it
will be soon what is called a wood-bud. Alway3
€ut at such double buds ; as from between them,
come out the shoots that produce the fruit for next
year, £Seepl.III. fig. 2.]

NECTARINES.
THEY differ from the Peach in nothing more
than their smooth rind, and the greater firmness
of their flesh.

Select Nectarines for a small garden.
Fairchild's Early Nectarine ; the Elruge ; Scar-
let; Murry ; Newington j Red Roman. The
first four are clcaristones 5 the other two cling-
stones.

Nectarines are managed nearly as Peaches. The
same rules of pruning and cutting out diseased
parts. Thin the fruit when of a tolerable size.

PEARS.

Their Culture^ Selection^ 'i^c. in England,
FOR a small garden in England, Mr. Forsyth re-
commends the following selection oiPear'Trees :

s

( 18 )

Summer Pears ; the Musk ; the Green Chisscl ;
Jargonelle ; Summer Bergamot 5 Summer Bon-
chretien.

Autumn Pears ; Orange Bergamot; Autumn
Bergamot ; Gansel's Bergamot ; Brown Beurre j
Doyenne, or St. Michael ; Swan's Egg.

Winter Pears : Crasane ; Chaumontelle ; St.
Germain ; Colmer ; D'Auch ; L'Esschasserie ;
Winter Bonchretien ; Bergamot de Fasque.

The above, Mr. F. says, will furnish a regular
succession of fruit.

Of the sorts an^ management of Pear-Trees^ in
England.
Observations on the Pears seledted by Mr. For-
syth for a fmall garden, given in the preceding
pages:

I. Summer Pears. There are several Musk
Pears, spoken of by Mr. Forsyth. — The Little
Miisk^ or Supreme ; good only a few days. The
Orange Musk ; apt to be dry. The Musk Rohine
Pear^ or Qiieen's, or the Amber, is small, yel-

( 19 )

low when ripe ; has 2<rich^ musky flavor ; zgreat
benrer ; ripens the end of August. The Musk
Drone ; z rich, musky taste : apt to be mealy,
lest on the tree j ripens early in September. The
Musk Orange ; the skin green, the flesh melting j
ripens early September,

The Green-Chiisel, or Hasting's Pear, is of a
middle size ; always remains green, and is full of
juice when ripe, which is early in August,

The Jargonelle^ or Cuisse Madame. Lady's
Thigh. It is somewhat like the Windsor ; — the
skin is smooth, of a pale green colour. A plenti-
ful bearer ; but is apt to be mealy, if left stand-
ing to be ripe, which is middle of August,

The Summer Bergamot^ or Hamden's Bergamot,
has a melting flesh, and a juice highly perfumed.
Ripens the end o^ September.

The Summer Bonckretien^ very full of juice, of
a rich perfumed flavor. Ripens the middle ot
September.

l\. Autumn Pears. The Orange Bergamot*

( ^0 )

Autumn Bergamot : smaller than the Summer
Bergamot : the flesh is melting, the juice highly
perfumed. A great bearer. Ripens early in Oc-
tober.

CanseWs Bergamot.

Brow7i Beurre: a reddish brown next the sun,
yellowish on the other side ; the flesh melting,
full of rich juice. Ripens in October. An ex-
cellent Pear.

Doyenne^ or St. Michael.

Siun?2'sEgg: middle size, egg-shape; green;
flesh melting, full of pleasant, muskyjuice. Comes
ni eating in November , Bears well.

III. Winter Pears. The Crasane: the flesh
extremely tender and buttery, full of rich sugar-
ed juice. The very best of the season: comes
into eating late in December.

The Chaumonteile (wilding of Chaumontelle)
is melting; the juice very rich : is in eating in

January.

The St. Germain is a fine fruit and keeps long ;
the flesh is melting, and very full of juice ;

( 21 )

which, in a dry season is very sweet : it is in eat-
ing from Dcce??iber till February . — Note. In dry
seasons^ fruit should not be suffered to sweat so
long in the heaps, as directed in treating of ^aM^fr-
ing and laying up fruit. Perhaps two weeks will
be long enough, says Mr. Forsyth.

The Colmar Pear is very tender ; the juice
greatly sugared. Is in eating about the first of y^-
nuary. The D' Auch Pear much resembles the
Colmar ; but is fuller towards the stalk ; and is
in eating from Christmas to April ; " and without
exception is the be%t of all the winter Pears '^ —
VEsschaserie has flesh melting and buttery; the
juice sugary. In eating early in January. The
IVinter Bonchretien Pear is very large ; the flesh
tender and breaking, and is very full of a rich su-
gared juice. It is in eating from the end of March
till June.

The Bergamotde Pasque^ goes also by the names
of, the Terling, the Amoselle, the Paddington
and the Tarquin. It is a fine handsome fruit —
green when gathered — yellowish when ripe.
Comes into eating in Aprils continues till June —
and makes a handsome appearance at table.

( 22 )

Mr. Forsyth advises, that instead of choosing
young Pcar-Trees tQ plant out, the oldest in the
nursery should be looked for and preferred, with
strong stems : to take them up carefully with as
much root as possible, and carefully plant them,
after cutting the roots a little, spreading them as
horizontally as can be. Then fill up all round the
roots, with light, dry mould, forcing it in about
those which lie hollow with a pointed stick ; fill-
ing the whole up to the top, without treading the
mould till the hole is first filled with as much wa-
ter as it will contain, leaving it a day or two, un-
til the ground has absorbed the water : then throw
on some fresh, dry mould, and tread it as hard as
it can be; fill the hole up again with mould to
within an inch of the top, and give it a second wa-
tering, leaving the mould three inches higher than
the border, to settle of itself, and receive rain that
falls; for at least a month. W hen the mould is
became quite dry, it may be trod a second time ;
then make a large bason round the tree, and give
it another watering ; then mulch the top over with
rotten leaves or dung, observing to water the
trees once a week in dry weather, and sprinkle
the tops frequently with a pot or hand-engine, to
keep the wood fi'om shrivelling till the trees have
taken fresh root.

( 23 )

In planting trees against a wall, let the stera
stand sloping towards it ; its lower part being
no more nor less than six inches from the bottom
of the wall, that the stem may have room to grow ;
and let the stem not lean, but be perfectly up-
right. When standards are planted a foot or two
from the wall, it gives them a disagreeable ap-
pearance: sixinc/icsy he says, will be full enough.

When the buds begin to break well, head the
trees to three or four eyes, for filling the wall
with fine wood. Never head them afterwards,
except the leading shoot, to fill the wall ; leaving
the foreright shoots to be pruned. — Mr. F. says,
he had trees giving forty Pears the second year;
while some of the same kind bore only eleven
Pears the fourteenth year after planting, with the
common method of pruning,
t

If any of the trees get stunted after a number of
years, nothing more, he says, is to be done but to
Aead them^ as he directs, which will restore thcni
into fresh vigour and fi'uitfulness.

The method, he says, of pruning P(7Jr-//ro is
very different from that practised for ^Jpplc-trecs^

t

( 24 )

in general. [See pi. VII. Letters C. and D.] Mr.

F. supposes it would be between twelve and four-
teen years before he could obtain any fruit from
young Pear-trees . But he makes a comparative
exper'rment in pruning or heading Pear-trees. He
cut down four old and decayed Pear-trees, of dif-
ferent kinds, near where they had formerly been
grafted : this was performed the 15th May. Find-
ing that they put forth fine shoots, he headed down
four more on the 20th of June, of the same year,
(by which time the former had shoots a foot long),
which did equally well, and bore some fruit in
the following year. One of the first four headed
down, was a St. Germain, which produced nine-
teen fine large well-fiavored Pears next year, [see
Letter B. pi. VII .3 and in the third bore more fruit
than in its former state it ever did, when it was
four times the size. He left seven trees upon an
east wall, treated 2iZZo\:d\i\^tQ>X.\\e common met hod
of pruning^ which bore as follows :

The number of Pears produced upon each of
seven trees that had been treated accordijig to the
commoji method of primings viz.

1. Epine d'Hyver produced eighty-si Ji peai'S^
and the tree spread fifteen yards.

Library

( 25 )

2. A Crasane produced one hundred Pears, and
the tree spread fourteen yards.

3. Another Crasane produced sixteen Pears, and

the tree spread ten yards.

••

4. A Virgouleuse produced one hundred and fif-
ty Pears, and the tree spread nine yards.

5. A Colmar produced one hundred aftd fifty
Pears, and the tree spread nine yards.

6. Another Colmar produced seventy-nine Pears,
and the tree spread ten yards.

7. A L'Eschasserie produced sixty Pears. ^

Compared with the above, — seven trees, headed
down and pruned according to his, Mr. Forsyth's
method, leaving the foreright shoots in summer,
they bore as follows, in the fourth year after heading:

1. A Louisbonne bore four hundred and sixty-
three Pears, and the tree spread nine yards.

* Total 641.

( 26 )

2. Another Louisbonne bore three hundred and
ninety-one Pears, and spread eight yards.

3. A Colraar bore two hundred and thirteen
Pears, and spread six yards.

4. A Brown Beurre bore five hundred and three
Pears.

5. Another Brow n Beurre bore five hundred and
fifty Pears.

6. A Crasane bore five hundred and twenty
Pears.

7. A Virgouleuse bore five hundred and eighty
Pears, t

The branches of the four last trees spread nearly
in the same proportion as the first three,

A young Beurre the second year after heading'
bore 230 Pears, and a St. Germain 400.

t Total 3220, That is 5 to 1.

( 27 )

All the above trees stood upon the same aspect
and the same wall, and the fruit was numbered in
the same year. The trees,?,pruned according to the
old practice covered, at least, one third more wall
than the others.

By the above statement, the trees headed down
bore upwards of five times the quantity of fruit that
the others did ; and they keep increasing, he says,
in proportion to the progress of the trees.

Add to this vast encouragement and superiority
of his pruning, that on the 20th June, Mr. Forsyth
headed several standards that were nearly destroyed
by the canker ; some of them were so loaded with
fruit the following year, that he was obliged to prop
the branches. In the fourth year after these stand-
ards were headed down, one of them bore 2840
Pears. On the same border were three standards,
two whereof were St. Germains ; the old trees was
of the same kind. One of these trees, twenty years
old, had five hundred Pears on it, a great crop for
its size : so that there were on the old tree, which
had been headed down not quite four years, 2340
Pears more than on the tree of t\\enty year's growth.

( 28 )

Mr. Forsyth gives a curious account of the re-
covering an old decayed Pear-tree, illustrated with
a plate (VIII.) — Restored from an inch and half
of bark, which now covers a v\all sixteen feet high.
In 1796, it bore 450 fine large Pears, and continues '
flourishing. The plate, however, is so badly drawn
as to be scarely worth copying. In referring to the
plate, he refers to " fruit-buds for the present year —
others forming for next year ; and old footstalks that
bore the fruit last year ;" but they are scarcely in-
telligible.

The following Mr. Forsyth gives as his method in
training trees that are cut near to the place where
they were grafted. Every year, in Mai'ch, he
shortens the leading shoot, to a foot or eighteen
inches, according to its strength ; this shoot, if the
tree be strong, will grow from five to seven feet in
one season ; and if left to nature would run up with-
out throwing out side shoots. The reason for thus
shortening the leading shoot, is to make it throw
out side shoots ; and if done close to a bud, it fre-
quently M ill cover the cut in one season, leaving on-
ly a cicatrix, as at f. f. f. in pi. VIII. which shews
every year's growth ajid cicatri x . When the shoots
are very strong, he cuts the leading shoot twice in

( 29 )

one season ; by which he gets two sets of side shoots
in one year ; v\ hich enables him to cover the Avail
the sooner. The frst cutting is performed any time
during the springs and the second the middle of
June.

He directs, when you prune the trees, and cut the
foreright shoots, which is to be in February or
March, always cut close to an eye or bud, observ-
ing where there are the greatest number of leaves at
the lower bud, and cut at them ; for at th^foot stalk
of every one of these will be produced a flower bud.
The same, he adds, M-ill hold good in cutting the su-
perfluous shoots on standard Pears. There will be
in some sorts of Pears, from live to nine Pears in a
cluster. This cutting is to be not later than March
or first of April, because of the leading shoot begin-
ning to grow : the next topping, when the leading
shoot grows quick enough to admit of it, will be the
middle of June ; and the length of the shoots are to
be according to their strength, having from three
eyes or buds, to six on a side.

The cankery part, he says, beginning to affect
the new bark, he cut off" all the canker at the bot-
tom last year, and plastered the place a\ ith cow-

( 30 )

dung, mixed with •wood ashes and powder of burnt
bones, put into as much urine and soapsuds as would
make it the consistence of thick paint. It was laid
on with a painter's brush. After being applied thi-ee
hours, it was patted gently down with the hand,
close to the tree : by which the air-bubbles that
may hap to be under the composition, and make
it adhere to the tree, preventing its being washed
off by rain, are got rid of.

In August^ early, the foreright shoots are shorten-
ed to about four inches long ; by this time the shoot
will have made its full growth for the season, and
will produce fine strong eyes for the following year.

The tree above mentioned had a decayed, rotten
root, the dead part of which he cut all away, till he
came to the sound wood. Whenever the trunk is
hollow, he directs that it be followed under ground
till all the decayed parts and rotten roots are cut out,
otherwise the tree will be lost.

If, savs Mr. Forsyth, the above be followed, more
Pears \vill be got in three or four years, than can be
m twenty-five }cars by planting young trees, and
pruning and managing them in the common way.

( 31 )

But it may happen that the Peai's become stunted
after cold bhghting winds, and frosty nights (as
sometimes seen in June and July*). In this case,
Mr, Forsyth recommends a new and bold method
of operation, when the weather becomes milder, or
begins to be so :

He says, take a sharp pen-knife, and with its
point cut through the rind of the Pear, from the
footstalk to the eye, as if it were a bark-bound tree,
cutting as little into the flesh of the tree as possible.
Beat up fresh cow-dung with wood ashes, and rub
in a little of this composition with the fore finger,
where the cut is made.

The distance he gives Pear-trees against walls,
and breadth of borders, are twelve yards : but the
distances vary too greatly to enter into detail. Bor-
ders should be 10 to 20 feet wide. But here is
much extravagance.

* No such cold weather ever happens in the United
States, at least not beyond the 41". So far from it,
it is thought strange there should be frost in May.

( 32 )
VINES.

MR. FORSYTH selects for a small garden in
England, the following Vines : — The JVhite Musca-
dine; White Siveet JVater ; Black Sweet JVater ; large
Black Cluster ; small Black Cluster ; the Miller
Grape, St. Peters, and the Black Hamburgh, may
do very well in favorable seasons.

The White Muscadine^ above selected, resembles
the Royal Muscadine, but the berries ai"e smaller.
It is the best grape for a common wall, and a great
bearer. Also called the Common, and the Chas-
sclas.

The White Sweet Water. The berry large, a
white colour ; very agreeable juice. Esteemed an
excellent grape. Ripens in September,

The Black Sweet Water. Small berry, sweet ;
but apt to crack. Not much in repute. Ripens in

September.

The large Black Cluster. A very roup:h, harsh
taste. Speechlay says it is the grape of the Opor-
to wine.

( 33 )

The small Black Cluster. A very pleasant fruit,

The St. Peter's Grape. Large oval berries j
deep black ; bunches large : the flesh juicy, jRir
pens late.

The Black Hamburgh. Bunches large- — large
berries — pleasant sweet juice, vinous. Ripens in
JSfovember.

Cuttings of Vines, take from shoots the best ri?
pened, with the shortest joints — always with onepr
two joints of the last year's wood : cutting it as near
^ joint of the old wood as possible.

Choose cuttings after a warm, dry season. Eaci>
.cutting to have two inches of the old wood, with onf
<sye of the new.

Training and Pruning Fiiies.
In 1789, says Mr. Fors}th, I let two strong
^ranches grow to full length, without topping them
in the summer. In 1790, he ti'ained them in a ser-
pentine form, [pi. X.] leaving about 30 eyes pi|
;each shoot, which produced 120 fiiie bunches of
ffrapes, weighing from one pound to ^ ppun.^ pi><|

F

( 34 )

a quarter each. All v, ho saw them said the large
ones were as fine as forced grapes ; while the small
ones produced from branches of the same Vine,
trained and pruned in the old way, were bad natu-
ral grapes, and not above tw ice the size of large
ciUTants.

To confirm this experiment, he next year trained
fiA'e plants in the s.tme way, allowing the shoots in-
tended for bearing wood to run to their full length
in summer, training wherever there Avas a vacancy
])etween the old trees ; a\ here there was none, he run
them along the top of the wall, without topping
them. •In winter he trained them in a serpentine
manner, so as to fill the waW as regularly as possi-
ble : they were as productive as those in the former
yeai's.

After a three year's trial, he thought himself war-
ranted to follow the same practice with the whole ;
and in 1793, he sent for the king's use 378 baskets
of grapes ; each weighing three pounds, \\ ithout
planting a single Vine more than were the preceding
year, when he could send only 56 baskets of the
same weig'it. The above proves the great advan-
tage of the serpentine method of training Vines.

( 55 )

It must be observed, the shoots should be brought
as near as \)Oiisih\e fro?n the bottom of the Vines, that
the wall may be well covered. When the walls
are high, and the shoots from the serpentine branches
strong, they may sometimes be suffered to remain.
If the walls are low, and the serpentine branches
give weak shoots, they are to be cut in the autum-
nal pruning, and the strongest of the young wood is
trained up in their room, as directed in the explana-
tion of pi. X.

The wood, in pruning and training V'lnes^ must
be strongs or the Vines will produce small bunches.
If that be the case, cut them down to two or three
eyes, in order to have strong wood for the next year.
Vines bear their fruit on the wood that was produced
the preceding year. The deal of old naked v.ood
that occurs, and small weak shoots at the extremi-
ties, always cut down as near to the ground as pos-
sible. There then will be no fruit for that year.
Or cut every other shoot, leaving the old ones to
produce some small grapes. The next year there
will be plenty of fine \\ ood, if care has been taken
to nail-in the strongest shoots, and pick off the side
shoots produced from the eyes ; pinching off with
finger and thumb, or with a sharp pen-knife cutting

( 36 )

tiieitt oiit close to the biid or eye ; but never tivist
tbdrh: by twisting them, the bud will be hurt that
produces the grapes next year ; always cutting as
Hear to a bud as possible, and laying in the wood
very thin in summer ; so it will grow very strong.
Pick of all side shoots as often as there is nailing to
the wall, ^vhich will be several times in the summer
months i

buffer iiot the Vines to run together in a cluster,
and to mat, which will ruin their bearing the next
season; Top the shoots trained serpentine-like,
soon as the grapes are as big as very small green
peas, a joint or two above the fruit; but neijer top
the leading shoot j nor which is intended to give fruit
next year;

111 the second year'' s pruning y observe not to prune
Vines till the beginning of February^ unless in case
of uncommon forwardness in the season. It is com-
mon with some, to begin pruning sooti after the fall
of the leaf before the iDood becomes hard: but if a
frost sets in before the %vood is hard, especially after
wet sunmiers and autumns, it will be much injured.
Mr. F. has seen Vines almost killed after autumnal
pruning* When the Vine leaves begin to fall, take

( 37 )

k sofit broom and sweep them off, npivardsy in A
gentle manner, which helps to harden the wood.

lii beginning to prune in February, make choice
of the strongest and longest shoots ; leaving them as
iong as the eyes are found good and plumps and the
wood round ; but never leave them when they be-
come ^^/; for in that case they seldom bear fruit ;
and if they do, it will be very small. Mr. F. never
lays in any that has less than fifteen, and from that
to thirty ^00^ eyes, which will produce two bunches
from every good eye. He has had seventy bunches
of grapes from one shoot.

The shoots that bore fruit in the preceding year
should be cut out next year ; except when the wall
is to be filled, and the shoots are very strong. A
plenty of fine, healthy young wood is always to be :iad,
if there be care in pruning in the winter ; therefore,
he says, never leave a7iy hut fine strong uwod, always
cut ti fig at the second, third or fourth eye, rubbing
off the lowest bud, and that which comes out at the
joint between the new and last year's wood. Thus
as much fruit is got from these short shoots, as would
be by the common pruning-.

( 38 )

Always leave two or three of the strongest shoots
for next year's bearing wood, and never top them :
and, if there is a want of room to train them, they
may be led over the tops of the other trees, or run
them behind the standards ; \\hich w ill have a beau-
tiful appearance when the fruit is ripe.

The composition presented by Mr. Forsyth to the
world, through the bounty of the government and
Parliament of Great-Britain, is always to be applied
as soon as possible after pruning. The Fine is very
porous, and soon imbibes ^\ ct and moisture, which
soon bring it to decay.

If a Pl}ie, from being cut late, should bleed, the
poA\ der is to be applied, and repeated till the bleed-
ing is stopped.

To try the effect of the poivder in stopping the
bleeding of Grape- Vines, Mr. F. cut two strong
Vine branches in jiine, and three more in July, in
very hot ^Acather. The sap rose so strong that it
worked out at the top in a froth : on applying the
poivder, it Avas in a short time entirely stopped.

( 39 )

PFatering F'mes.
When the grapes are set ana begin to sivcll^ wa-
ter them with the barrow-engine ; sprinkling ail over
the lea'oes and fruit, pressing the fore finger over the
top of the pipe, so that the water can be tiirown as
fine as small rain.

Insects on Grapes.
Soon as the large fly, &c. appears, have bottles,
a good number, about half full with some sweet li-
quor, where the msects will be drowned. Hang the
bottles all over the Vines, and some at the bottom
of the walls. Hang them up early, as the blue fly
comes much earlier than the wasp, and is not less
destructive.

Against birds, nets or bunting are to be thrown
over tlie grapes.

It is a bad practice to take off" the leai^es from
Vines soon after the fruit is set ; which prevents the
fruit from swelling, and it becomes hard and small,
apt to crack.

Grapes are kept vvrapped in soft paper, and cover-
ed, layer and layer, with bran v/ell dried : but short

( 40 )

•ut, sound, dry straw must be better, as the dusting
of meal on the bran will produce mites, &c, — The
grapes bagged, and the jai' or pot being filled, layer
.and layer with them and the ciit-straix), they ar«
then closely secured in a dry room, nor cold nor hot,

FIGS,

FIGS have been cultivated in England ever since
the }'car 1562. Mr. Forsyth gives an account of
fifteen sorts the best worth cultivating in England,
The}' arc, he says, raised from suckers, layers, or
cuttings ; which will thrive in almost any soil, but
do not like a wet bottom : they generally, he adds,
produce more fruit on a strong loamy soil than on
a dry one. Layers or cuttings are preferable to
suckers.

Pruning and Culture of Figs.
They should never, says Mr. Forsyth, be pruned
in autumn or during the imntcr : his best time is the
latter end of April or beginning of May ; by which
time A\ill be seen what shoots have been killed by
the frost in winter. The end of those branches
more particularly^ will be hurt where the wood ha^

( 41 )

not ripened well in dntujnn : they should be cut int9
the sound wood, and as near to an eye as possible.
When the branches have been suffered to run up,
leaving tbe bottom quite naked, there should be cut
out every other branch as near to the ground as can
be ; which will furnish the wall with fine young
wood ; observing to stop the ends of the shoots in
the beginning of ^^tme ; this will cause them to
throw out side shoots which will bear fruit the next
summer. By that time there will be plenty oijins
•wood: then may be cut down the rest of the old
branches left the preceding year, observing to prune
them about the same time the pruning was the last
year : remembering always to pinch off the. ends of
the strongest shoots, except the leading ones, at
the top bud.

When the pruning is in the spring, neuer shorten
the shoots, as the fruit iis produced near the tops^.
There will, he says, be many fine short side and
foreright shoots, which should never be cut off but
when decayed. These shoots, he thinks, will ripaii
much better than the long strong ones, and not be
so liable to be killed by frost in winter. By following
this method, Mr. F. says, the trees will be covered
with fruit from top to bottom of the walls, instead

Of

( 42 )

of a few fruit only at the top, as when the common
metliod of pruning is practised.

When the Figs are the size of small nutmegs,
pinch oft' the point of the top bud ^^'it^l the finger and
thumb, or cut it with a sharp pen-knife ; ah\ ays re-
membering to use the powder wherever is the cut or
pinch, to stop the <?(3zi;z^ of the milk; which, if suf-
fered, would exhaust and injure the trees.

Do not lay in the branches too thick, or near to-
gether ; their distance should be t\\elve to eigh-
teen inches from each other.

In the beginning of winter coiner the trees before
the frost sets in, or the ends of the shoots will be
hurt by the first sharp frosts, before the wood is ri-
pened and hardened, which will render it necessary
to cut them as before. When Fig-trees are very
much injured in hard winters, the best way is to cut
as near the ground as possible ; and the second year
they may be got into a fine bearing state, if managed
as above directed.

i ( 43 )

Coniering Fig-Trees.
Mr. Forsyth covered with bentings,* or short
grass from the pleasure grounds ; which he finds an-
swers the purpose very well. Figs, he adds, may
also be sheltered in winter, by wrapping hay or
straw bands round the branches of the trees; then
open the ground, lay in the branches oiiho. trees, and
coiier them over with mould about nine inches deep,
leamng the ends of the shoots about three inches out
of the ground, and covering the ground over with
some rotten leaves or old tan, &c. to keep out the
frost. The roots also may be so covered.

Do not uncover the Figs too soon in the spring ;
and it should be partially, for fear of frosts and cut-
ting winds in April and May ; which would kill the
young fruit, as it makes its appearance in the
spring.

The branches laid into the ground should be taken
up in April, taking off the hay and straw bands,

* Bentings, or bent-grass ? Under Grapes, p. 129
he says, cover the trees with " nets or hunting (a kind
of stuff which ship's colours are made of)." But here,
(his p. 136), bentings seem to be the bent-grass; for
he says, " bentings or short grafs."

( 44 ) ^

and then nail them to the wall. Stick in among
the branches some fern leaves, or other light co'Der-
ingy to protect them from drying winds and frosts,
till the fruit is of he size of a large walnut, or rather
till the leaves are large enough to protect the fruit.

The Italians, to f onward the ripening of Figs, drop
a little sweet oil from a quill into the dye of tlie fruit.
But take care not to hurt tlie skin and make the Fig
burst. This makes the difference of full /luo "weeks
in the ripening.

Soon as the leaves begin to fall, brush them off
with a broom, but not till they come off easily ^ lest
the trees be made to bleed at the footstalks. In the
same moment clean the stalks of all the stalks of
small late fruit \ — which, if suffered to remain in
the winter, will rot and injure the tree, so as to
prevent it from bearing the next summer.

If milk is seen oozing from the footstalks, apply-
some of the composition ; which will stop it and heal
tlie injured part : and by doing this, ripening and
hardening the ivood before winter frosts set in will
be assisted. See before, p. ^^, his powder applied
to Vines.

( 45 )

Plant Fig-trees 20 to 24 feet apart ; and train
horizontally J which renders them much more fruit-
ful than if trained upright ^ which makes them run
up in long, naked wood.

Leave spurs or short shoots allo'uer the branches ;
and when the buds begin to swell, all the short shoots
should be pinched as above.

The branches of standard Fig-trees are liable to
be killed in winters ; they therefore should be laid
in the ground, wrapping them up in hay or straw
bands, as directed for wall-trees. It sometimes will
be impracticable to lay down the middle branches :
then let them be well covered with hay or straw
bands, and the outside laid down regularly round the
tree, and avoiding to hurt them with the spade :
then mulch them with rotten leaves, &c.

After hard winters it has been found necessary to
cut Fig-trees down 'oery near to the ground, and ap-
ply the composition : in two years the new^ wood has
covered over the old stump, and the branches filled
up the space, bearing a plenty of fine fruit.

In a plentiful year, what is not used at table, may
be dried for winter use.

( 46 )

QUINCES.

THE best sort for the kitchen garden is the Por-
tugal^ the best for baking or stewing. It is of a fine
purple colour A\hen dressed, and much better for
marmalade than any other sort. These also mix
well with apples in pies and puddings ; adding a
quick pleasant fia\'or.

They are easily raised by layers or cuttings taken
from the tree in March. Plant in ^ shady place, in
rows a foot apart, and three inches, plant to plant in
the rows. Mulch them with rotten leaves or rotten
dung, for keeping the ground moist about them.
Water them frequently in hot weather. About Mi-
chaelmass the well-rooted may be planted out ; and
the rest let remain over to another year. — They also
may be propagated b}' budd'iug or grafting ; and
those trees will bear, Mr. F. says, sooner, and be
more fruitful than those raised by any other method.

Prune Quince-trees much like Apple-trees, cut-
ting out all the diseased, old, and dead wood, and
the cross branches in the middle of the tree. In ge-
neral, old trees ai'e much hurt by injudicious prun-
ing : in that case, head them dowiu cut out all the

( 47 )

canhery pai-t, and aU the diseased and dead wood
where the tree is Iiollow, or where large branches
have been cut or broken off ; applying always the
composition as for Apple-trees.

Quince-trees are apt to have rough bark, and be
bark-bound. Shave off the rough bark with a draw-
knife ; and scarify them when bark-bound : then
brush them over with the composition^ as hereafter.

Quinces ought to be planted some distance from
apples and Pears, as bees and the wind might mix
the farina, and occasion the apples and pears to de-
generate.

GOOSEBERRIES.

THE sorts common in England, Mr. Forsyth
says, are —

Green Gascoin, Hairy & Smooth Red,

Smooth Green, Large Smooth Yellow,

Early Black, Large Rough Yellow,

Small Early Red. Common Large White,

Large .SmoothDutchYello^\-,Chiimpaigiie.

( 48 )

They arc raised from cuttings^ or from seed i
some raise them from suckers : but these last are
raised in a bad way ; as the bushes are more liable
to throw out suckers from them than in either of
the other ways.

Plant cutt'mgs, he says, about Michaelmass ; al-
ways cutting them from the strongest and cleanest
shoots. The length of cuttings to be six to eight
inches, planting them on an east or north border,
one foot from row to row, leaving them about three
inches above ground : at this distance the hoc may
be admitted, for cleaning them from weeds and stir-
ring the soil. Water frequently in dry weather dur-
ing the spring.

Market gardeners near London plant them in
rows, 8 or 10 feet from row to row, and six feet,
plant to plant in the rows. In which case, Mr. F.
advises pruning them in the beginning of Octo-
ber ; and the ground between planted with col worts
or beans, for a spring crop.

After this time (or before) lay a coat of rotten
dung on : then dig and plant early potatoes ; but
not so near the Gooseberries as to hurt them.

( 49 )

The roots of Gooseberries arc to be kept clear
to admit sun and air. In small gardens, plant
them 'in quarters by themselves ; six feet between
the rows, and four feet, plant to plant j or plant
them round the edges of the quarters, three feet
from the path; and then the ground will be clear
for cropping.

Gooseberries love a rich soil ; and should there-
fore be dunged every year, or at least a good coat
once in two years.

Never plant them, he says, under the shade of
ether trees ; which would injure the flavour of the
fruit.

Pruning Gooseberries.
It is a bad practice to let Gooseberr).'-bushes
branch out with great naked stems. When they
are found in this state, cut them down near to the
ground in the winter pruning. They then will
throw out fine strong healthy shoots, that will give
fruit the second year. In general, they bare their
fruit on the second year's wood.

( ^0 )

In summer keep the middle of the bush clear, to
admit a free air; leaving the finest and strongest
shoots from six to ten inches distant from each
other ; which will help to ripen and harden the
wood. It is, says Mr. F. a practice with some to
jhorten the shoots in the autumn or winter prun-
ing ; this, he adds, should always be near to a
wood-bud ; which is known by its being singlcy
whereas fruit-lmds arc in clusters. The shoots arc
shortened to eight or ten inches, as they are strong*
Some leave them at full length three or four years,
thinning out those that are superfluous. Always
leave a number to be trained up between the full
length shoots, to succeed them when they arc tired
of bearing : then cut the old ones down to the
young that arc to succeed them. Thus the bushes
are always in a constant state of bearing.

The branches cut in the first year, in the second
will throw out short dugs, or spurs which produce
the fruit ; and these should by no means be cut
off, unless the branches are in a sickly state, and
require to be cut close down when the bushes are
overloaded with fruit. It will then be necessary
to cut out a good deal of the old wood, to assist
nature to recover herself after being forced in
producing so great a quantity of fruit.

( 51 )

The Gooseberry supplies the table amply till
the wall-fruit conies in. Great additions to them
are of late made by raising them from seed^

By mixing up a rich soil to plant those in that
have been raised //-o;;? seed^ and by waterings shad'
m^ and M;««/;z§ the fruit, they have grown much
larger than any ever before seen in England.

The catalogues of Gooseberries are brought to
contain between four and five hundred sorts or
varieties. Mr. Forsyth asked Messrs. M'Niven,
nurserymen at Manchester, how many good and
distinct sorts (some hardly being distinguishable)
they could send him out of their numerous cata-
logue : the answer was, ''• They could send about
eighteen or twenty sorts, which they could an-
swer for being good and distinct " — r\jr. Forsyth
accordingly received, on his order, all the sorts
that they could warrant good, which turned out
to his satisfaction.

Great attention ought to be paid to the cultiva-
tion of the early and late sorts before all others,
and he wishes attention be paid to the times of
ripening.

( 52 .)

He disapproves of clipping the tops of Goose-
berry-bushes with garden-shears, which exceed-
ingly injures the bushes and the fruit.

In the spring and summer, grub up all thej-«r;^-
ers from the roots ot the bushes ; leaving their
stems clear and unincumbered.

To have the fruit very late, plant on north walls
and palings between the other trees ; and they
may be removed when the trees begin to meet.
\i laid in thirty they will bear very fine and hand-
some fruit. PlaRt the finest /^/^ sorts. By this
method the table will be supplied much longer
than by the common practice of planting in quar-
ters.

Immediately after pruning, Mr. F. always ap-
plies the composition to the ends of the shoots and
cuttings; and he finds it of great use in prevent-
ing the exhalation of the sap, and preserving the
cuttings till they take root.

A small green caterpillar frequently devours
the leaves and fruit of Gooseberry-bushes. Watch
their early coming, and destroy them before they

( 53 )

get ahead, or they will destroy all the leaves, and
the fruit will be worthless. Their first appear-
ances are under and at the edges of the leaves.

To kill the green caterpillar, Izy sifted quick-lime
under the bushes ; but at first let none touch the
branches or leaves j then shake t2.c\\h\x^h. suddenly
and smartly. The caterpillars then fall into the
lime. If the bush be not very suddenly shook,
with a spring, the insects being a little disturbed
will cling close to the leaves, hardly to be shaken
off. After this is done, sift some of the lime o<:;<fr
and on the bushes, which will drive down those
that may be lodged on the branches. Next day
sweep up the caterpillars, and wash the bushes
with clear lime-water, mixed with nrine. This
will destroy Aphides as well as caterpillars.

CURRANTS.

THE sorts most commonly cultivated in Eng-
land are, the Rcd?c[\6. White Dutch Currants^ and
the Common Black and American Black Currants.
Also the following sorts are cultivated by the nur-
serymen about London and other parts of P-lng-
land ;

( 54 )

Common red, Longbunched red,

Champaignclargepale&red, Striped-lcavM red,

Fine new white Du^eh, \\'hiie Crystal,
Large pi^le and red Dutch.

The Currant is the most useful of all the small
fruit, either fur the table and kitchen, or for pre-
serving, making vvine, Sec. and continues longer
in succession than any other.

He further says, with proper attention, Currants
will continue in use fiom Juue to November.
Black Currants are very much esteemed by some ;
ye they are seldom sent to the table, but are very
useful for making jelly, for sore throats, colds, &c.
In Ireland, he says. Black Currants are steeped in
whiskey^ of which they make punch, and recom-
mend it as a medicine for coughs and colds. He
once had two gallons of it sent by a friend for that
purpose : some of it was taken in a glass of warm
water by aperson much afflicted with a severe
cough^ and thought to be in a decline^ which effect-
ed a perfect cure in three or four nights. The
Currants for this purpose should be bruised and
put in a jar, and the whisky poured over them. It
stands a fortnight, cover it close down ; then it is

( 55 )

strained through a fine cloth or sieve, and put it
into bottles or casks for use. Currants, he adds,
may be used in this manner with brandy, gin, or
other spirits: and they may be preserved as cher-
ries, and sent up to table.

Propagation of Currants.
They may be raised from seed, layers^ &c.
When the trees are cut low, lay down some of the
branches in winter or spring, when the ground is
dug in the quarters or rows^ which ought to be
annually. In the next autumn, these layers will
have made fine roots ; then they may be planted
out wherever wished to stand, when in thefoliovv-'
ing summer they will give fine fruit.

Currants may also be propagated by cuttings y
choosing out the strongest and straightest shoots.

Under the bushes, covered for late fruit, there
will always be found a plenty of self-sown plants ;
which it is adviseable to plant out by themselves.
When wine is made of Currants, save and dry the
seed — then in autumn or early in the spring soiv
the seeds on fine light earth ; when there probably
will be some fine varieties. Do not propagate

( 56 )

them from suckers ; they never grow handsome,
and throw out many suckers.

Instead of some bad Currants retained in the
gardens in England, Mr. Forsyth recommends the
rooting them out, and plant in their room the
Large Red and IVhite Diitch^ the Long Bunched
Red^ and Chnmpai^ne Large Pale Red. They may
be planted out in the same manner as Gooseber-
ries, in quarters^ or single rows round the edges of
quarters.

A few, particularly, plant against a south or a
Wffj-/ wall or paling, which will give fruit much
earlier than in quarters.^ &c. — Also to plant some
between other fruit-trees on northmalls or palings,
for later crops : these may be covered WiXix double
nets, to preserve them from birds; tucking in a few
fern branches between the two nets, for preventing
the heat of the sun and drying luincls from shrivel-
ling the fruit. In quarters, they should be cover-
ed with mats for the same purpose ; at the same
time permitting the leaves to remain on the bushes
to shade the fruit and make it keep the longer.

( 57 )

Pruning Cur rant- Bushes,
It is nearly similar to that of Goosebenies. It
may be begun in Noiiemher^ and continue till March.

Never leave Currants too thick of ivood ; and
much depends on their management in summer,
that they may have strong and fine wood for the
next season. If they have been neglected for years,
and suffered to run up to long naked wood, they are
to be cut down near the ground ; they then will set
forth fine strong shoots. In such case, Mr. Forsyth
recommends heading down every other tree, and
cutting the others partially, by taking out every
other branch as near as can be to the ground, unless
they are trained up 'with single stems, in which case,
he says, cut them as near as possible to where the
branches begin to break out and form the head.

In the winter pruning preserve the strongest and
finest shoots, leaving them nine to eighteen inches
long, according to their strength, and from eight to
ten inches apart, and regular from top to bottom of
the trees ; cutting out the dead and weak shoots. —
Particular attention is to be paid in summer to keep
open the middle of the bush, to admit sun and air ;
preserving the finest and strongest shoots, nearest

I

( 58 )

the stem. Suffer not, for the sake of a fine round
head, that it run too high, however comely, because
the winds are apt to break them if not well support-
ed by stakes. The shoots should run not to more
than six inches long. He prefers dwarfs^ three to
four feet high. Stock up all suckers at the roots of
the trees, and keep them ^ery clean. — Suckers would
prevent the sun and air from the roots, and weaken
the trees.

BARBERRIES.

MR. FORSYTH recommends Barberries in all
shrubberies. They attract and harbour singing
birds. The sorts are, the Red Barberry luithoiit
stems : the White Barberry : the Black Sweet, the
tenderest of them — plant in a warm situation : the
Common Red %mth stones, planted for its beautiful
red berries.

They are propagated from their suckers and lay-
ers, and require the like pruning with other flower-
ing shrubs. They look well planted in clumps.

( 59 )

When they are to he increased, encourage the
finest and cleanest shoots in summer, by trimming all
the side branches off thin ; and when in M'inter the
shrubberies are dressed, lay down the strong shoots,
which will take root, and be fit to transplant in au-
tumn following. When designed for use, train them
up as standards and half standards, and they will
grow from six to twelve feet high. In summer
trim off all the straggling and superfluous shoots,
so as to make handsome heads.

Barberries may also be raised from seeds ; but
suckers and layers are best for preserving the sorts
distinct.

They are used as pickles, in garnishing dishes,
and as a preserve. They are excellent ; to many
purposes ; and in making a cooling drifik in fevers,
they are scarcely equalled ; and in punch are thought
by some to rival lemons.

RASPBERRIES.

THE sorts propagated in England, according to
Mr. Forsyth, are —

( 60 )

Early white, T.arge red Antwerp.

Double-bearingwhite, Large white Antwerp,
Large common white, Smooth cane double-bearing,
Large red, Woodward's new Raspberry.

Propagating^ Planting and Priming Raspberries.
They are, says Mr. Forsyth, raised from suckers
and layers. They should be planted in a piece of
ground by tliemselves, and (except the early white)
at the distance of six feet from row to row, and four
feet in the rows.

First trench and dung the ground before the Rasp-
ben-ies are planted : choose the strongest and finest
plants that come from the sides of the stools ^ where
they ^2x^X^^0X1 standing for some years ; or encou-
rage the strongest plants that come out betwixt the
rows after digging, which should be done annually.
In digging, the roots will frequently happen to be
cut M ith the spade, a\ hich will occasion many small
plants to come up ; of which select the strongest and
finest, and then hoe up all the rest. But he prefer-
red laying down some of the strongest outside shoots
in March ; as by the next autumn they will make
fine roots, and may be planted out where intended
to remain. These will be less liable to throw out
suckers than diose produced from suckers.

( 61 )

Plant out fresh pieces of Raspberries in moist
iveatber, as tlie roots are very delicate, and subject
to be hurt if exposed to a diy air. If, however,
they are planted in dry iveatber, be sure to moisten
tlie roots with water, and cover them with wet litter
or leaves, during the time of planting.

In planting, ope?i a trench with the spade along the
line where the suckers or layers are to be planted.
Cut off the small fibrous roots with a knife, leaving
only the stronger roots. Put them into the trench,
and cover them with earth : then water them well,
and throw the rest of the earth over them, to remain
till the planting is finished ; then where you first be-
gan to plant, begin and tread the ground with your
foot as hard as you can along each of the trenches,
and in the same direction as you planted : then with
a spade level all the ground smooth, aijd run it over
with a rake, taking off any stones and rubbish that
may be left on the surface.

In dry weather, water the plants t^vo or three
times a week till they take root. The Antwerp
and other strong growers should be staked with
stout stakes : then run two small rails at top, to tic
the branches to.

( 62 )

The early white and smaller sorts may be plaited
together at top, tying them round with small yellow
willow, for keeping them together.

The Antwerps will thrive well against a 7iorth wall
or paling, and give late crops.

Where the small red and white Raspberries arc
found, destroy them, — and in their room plant the
following sorts : large red., smovth-cane douhle-hear-
i?ig, large red ixnd white Jntwerps, the large common
white, double-bearing ivhite, and Woodward's new
Raspberry.

Some prefer to prune Raspberries in autumn, a
practice not appro\ed by Mr. Forsyth; because
bearing the fruit on the wood of the preceding year,,
they are liable to be killed by frost in severe win-
ters ; but by deferring the pruning till February,
there will be great choice of fine wood for bearing the
following summer ; always rooting out or cutting
down all the wood that bore fruit the preceding year,
which generally dies ; selecting only {rom five to se-
i}en of the most vigorous and strong shoots from the
last year's wood, to bear fruit the ensuing yeai*.
These shoots may ht primed to the length of three

( 63 )

vr four feet ^ according to their strength, if they arc
of the sraooth-cane double-bearing sort (which ge-
nerally bears a second crop in autumn, and will in
fine seasons continue hearing from June to Noiiem-
be?-) ; but, if the large Antwerp, the shoots should
be left five or six feet long.

Raspberries will continue in bearing five or six
years;: by which time there should be 2, fresh planta-
tion to succeed them. The young plants will bear
some fruit the first year, and come into full bearing
the second year after planting. If suffered to remain
more thanf'ueor six years on the same ground, they
will degenerate and bear small fruit. Leave not
above eight or ten of the strongest shoots, rubbing
off" or pulling up all the superfluous ones ; and keep
the ground well hoed and clear of weeds between
the rows.

MULBERRIES.

MANY old Mulberry-trees are standing at this
day about ancient moruisteries and abbeys ; from
whence it is probable they had been introduced be-
fore the dissolution of those houses. It is said, they

64 )

were first introduced into England in 1596. But
if 30, the opinion of the Duke of Northumberland
must be erroneous,''when he said the four Mulberry-
trees at Sion-house were above 300 years old : and
Gerard says, in his history of plants, that in 1597
Mulberry-trees then grew in sundry gardens in Eng-
land.

There is none worth cultivating for fruit in Eng-
land, but the common Black Mulberry-tree, the
fruit whereof is very wholesome ; and the Red or
Virginian Mulberry.

Mulberries are raised in England from seed, or
from cuttings and layers. The best bearing branches
of old trees are to be chosen for cuttings and la}ers.
Some of their branches bearing only katkins, and
trees from them will yield fruit. From layers, they
will generally take root sufficiently the first year to
bear separating from the parent tree ; and should
then be planted in a nursery, and trained up with
single stems. In four years they are fit to plant out
to remain. Give them distance, that the sun and
air may have full influence on them ; the fruit, other-
wise, being apt to turn mouldy. Also shelter them,
in England, from east, north and west winds.

( 65 )

But, Mr. Forsyth says, the best way to raise them
is ivoTXi former year"* s shoots ^ having one joint of the
two years* wood. Plant them out in autumn^ if fine
weather, or in Marchy in rows nine inches apart,
and at two inches distance in the rows, leaving only
tnuo or three buds above ground : mulch the ground
with leaves or dung well rotted, to keep it moist,
and the plants will require little watering. If well
thriven, the next year they may be transplanted in-
to a nursery, and treated as directed for layers.
Whilst they remain in the nursery they should be
transplanted every three or four years. Plant the
trees where they will drop the finest of their fruit on
grass ; when dropping on dug ground, the fruit
would be lost.

Their best soil is a rich, light, and deep earth.
The fruit is produced on the young wood ; there-
fore only cut out such branches as cross others, and
that arc decayed or broken by accident ; at the same
time apply the composition. If, however, the heads
become too full of wood, they must be thinned, for
giving larger and better flavored fruit ^vhere the
heads are thin of wood.

( 66 )

Mr. Forsyth found many Mulberry-trees in a very
decayed state, and the trunks quite hollow; on which
he tried the composition^ cutting out all the dead
wood and cankery parts of some, and beading down
others that were stunted and sickly. After these
operations, they put forth vigorous branches, and
bore excellent crops of fruit, more than double the
size of that a\ hich they produced in their former
state.

Those, he says, who have old decayed Mulberry-
trees, should treat them in the same manner ; but
such as are mery much decayed should be headed
doivn : this will throw them into a healthy, bearing
state, and in two or three years they will produce
j>lent.y of fine fruit.

As old Mulberry-trees, Mr. F. says-, produce not
only a greater quantity of fruit, but also much larger
and of a finer flavor than young ones, it is m ell
worth while to take some pains to repair the injuries
A^hich they may have sustained by accidents or age.

> 'This pleasant and 'valuable fruity he says, is but
little cultivated in England,

( 67 )

THE ALMOND.

THE following are the sorts propagated in Eng-
land, for ornament and use : — The tender-shell'd
almond ; the sweet almond ; the common or bitter
almond ; the sweet Jordan almond ; the hard shell'd
almond ; the dwarf, and the double-flowering al-
monds.

They are propagated by budding them on plum^
almond, or peach-stocks. The next spring, train
them for standards^ or let them grow for half stand-
ards : but the common way is to bud them as high
as it is wished the stem should be ; and the second
year after they may be planted out for good. Trans-
plant into a dry soil in October^ when the leaves be-
gin to decay : if into ■«;€■/ ground, February is tlie
season. Budded on plum stocks, they thrive best
in a wet soil ; and on almond and peach stocks in a
dry. They require nearly the same management in
pruning as the standard apricot.

Plant them, Mr. Forsyth says, always in a sbcl-
tcred place, facing the south. If planted as diijarfs^
they may be covered viith poles stuck into the
gromid, tliatching over the tops of the trees with

( 68 )

fern or other light cohering ^ to prevent the blossoms
being killed by the frost in February and March,

After the fruit is set and the leaves so far out as
to cover it, if fine weather, the covering may be re-
moved in the latter end of April or early in May.

They are sometimes planted on walls, and some-
times on espaliers.

Preserve them in dry sand or bran ; but they
should be first thoroughly dried on shelves or boards
in an airy place before they are put into sand or
bran ; otherwise they will become mouldy.

CHESNUTS.

THE sorts mostiy cultivated in England, Mr.
Forsyth says, are the Spanish Chesnuts, which run
into great varieties when raised from seed ; and the
American sort, called Chinquapin, for variety.

The Spanish Chesnuts are very fine trees, and
well worth cultivating, both for use and ornament.
The timber is reckoned equal to oak, and for casks

( 69 )

superior to it ; for when seasoned it is not so liable
to shrink or swell as oak. They ha e a noble ap-
pearance, and so are adapted to parks.

Propagate them from seed gathered when tho-
roughly ripe, about the end of October. — Let them
spontaneously open and drop from the ti^ees, to be
picked up in the morning. All that fail in the husk
should be thrown in a heap in a shed, to remain
three or four weeks to ripen. Then pick out the
best, dry them on mats or cloths in a sunny situa-
tion. They are then laid up on shelves or a dry
floor, turning them frequently. If some are dried
in an oven after bread is drawn, and then packed i?i
boxes or jars with quite dry sand, they will, he says,
keep plump and good. If put in the oven when too
hot, they will shrivel. Sow in beds of light earth
in Noiiember ; the drills being nine inches apart and
three deep : the nuts to be an inch apart in the rows,
with the points upwards : cover with mould, and pat
it down with the head of the rake. The beds four
or five feet wide, raised a little in the middle to let
off rain. If it appears the seeds are attacked in the
ground by mice, c©ver the beds with slates, brick,
or stone, till the nuts begin to spring : then off with
the stone covering. If the winter sets in severely,

( 70 )

cover the bfeds with rotten clung, leaves, or old tan,
before laying Oa the pavement. — If the autumn be
wet, don't sow till February ^ or March, early.

Hoe between the nuts in the rows. The summer
proving dry, water them once or twice a week. By
October, or the following spring, they may be put
into beds, in rows a foot apart, and four inches in
the row, to remain two years longer ; carefully
trimming all the side shoots, leaving only one
straight stem.

When planted out for good, let it rather be in au-
tumn; they are to stand till tbe next spring tivehe-
month, and then are headed down to two eyes abo'oe
ground, cutting near as may be to an eye, and sloping
to the north, that the shoot which is thrown out
may cover the stem in the first season, which it will
do, and grow six or seven feet. — If they are not
headed down in this manner, they will never be
straight, handsome trees. Toung trees must not be
headed down immediately after transplanting. They
ought to be well rooted before that operation is per-
formed : and it is to be obscrvec>, that the larger the
sterns are when headed, the stronger and more luxu-
rient will the shoots be.

( 71 )

WALNUTS.

THOSE commonly cultivated in England arc
varieties from the common walnut, viz. — The
double^ the large^ the French^ the thin-skinned, and
the late.

They are best raised from the nut, gathered full
ripe. The thin-shelled are preferred for this pur-
pose. When ripe, let them remain till they begin
to drop off of themselves : shaking the tree will then
bring them down. Beating with poles injures the
tree much, by breaking the young shoots. The}"
A\ ill be fit to transplant the^r^r autumn after sow-
ing, if they have thriven veil — if not, let them con-
tinue another year. — Bed them out in the manner
directed for Chesnuts ; transplanting every second
or third year, until planted out for good. This
causes their throwing out Jine horizontal roots, and
bring Uiem to a hearing state much sooner than
\\ hen they make deep tap-roots.

Train them up with fine single stems to seven feet
high, before they are suffered to form heads ; the
branches will also be out of the reach of cattle. The
time of transplanting tliem out, depends on their

( 72 )

progress in the nursery : they must remain there
till they have grown to a tolerable size, and to the
height just mentioned as proper for standards.

The ground is to be well plowed or trenched ; and
the trees to be planted, at first, in rows six feet apart,
and the sajne distance from tree to tree in the rows,
in quincunx order ; and thus remain until they come
into bearing. After making choice of the best
fruit-trees, the other trees may be planted for tim-
ber, or made use of in stakes or any other way.
The bearing trees must be thinned as they increase
in size, till they are at the proper distance for full-
grown trees, which may be 24 to 48 feet, accord-
ing to the richness of soil and progress in the trees'
growth.

In trimming stems of Wahut -trees, cut off the
shoots and small branches close to the bole ; and in
lopping, cutting out cross branches, or such as arc
damaged by winds and accidents, always cut at a
fork or eye ; otherwise a part of the branch will die
and injure the tree. But be it a part or the whole
cut oif, the composition is to be immediately applied.

( 73 )

Walnuts thrive best in a deep^ rich soil. They
are well worth cultivating : the yearly value of the
fruit being very considerable. There is a great
deal made by thinning the nuts for pickling^ for
home and foreign markets. At Beddington, about
50 Walnut-trees, and but half of them full bear-
ers, have been let at;£30. ;/^40. and ^50. according
to the crop : and the renter is thought to clear
;£50. by the bargain.

The leaves of Walnuts steeped in boiling wa-
ter, and that infusion mixed with lime-water, soap-
suds and urine, is very efficacious in destroying
slugs and worms in the ground^ and insects on trees.

IValnuts for keeping should drop of themselves,
and afterwards be laid in an open airy place till
they are thoroughly dried : then pack them in jars,
boxes, or casks, with fine clear sand, well dried
in the sun, in an qven, or before the fire, in layer*
of sand and walnuts alternately; set them in a dry
place, but not where it is too hot. They so arc
kept till the end of April. If they ever become
shrivelled steep them in milk and water, six or
eight hours.

( 74 )

GRAFTING AND BUDDING

AND

ON USING COMPOSITION INSTEAD OF GRAFTINGCLAY.

Mil. FORSYTH gives directions for render-
ing grafting plain and easy to those who have not
been regularly instructed in the art from general
practice .; and he adds a method followed by him
for some years ; and which, he thinks, will be
found an improvement.

The shoots or cions used in grafting, called also
grafts^ are to be chosen with observingthe follow-
ing directions carefully : — 1st. That they are
shoots of the former year. 2dly. Always take
them from healthy, fruitful trees. If they be
sickly trees, t\\e grafts often partake of the distem-
per ; and if taken from young luxuriant trees, they
may continue to produce luxuriant shoots, but arc
seldom so productive as those taken from fruitful
trees, whose shoots are more compact, and the
joints closer together. 3dly. Prefer those grafts
taken from the lateral or horizontal branches, to
those of the strong perpendicular shoots.

( 75 )

These grafts should be cut off from the trees
before their buds begin to swell ; which generally
is three or four weeks before the season for graft-
ing : therefore when they are cut off, lay them in
the ground with t\\Q cut downwards^ burying them
half their length, and covcringtheir tops with dry
litter, for preventing their drying. If a small
joint of the former year's wood be cut off with
the cion, it will preserve it the better j and when
they are grafted, this may be cut off, for at the
same time the cions must be cut to a proper length
before they are inserted in the stocks ; but till then
the shoots should remain of the full length, as
taken from the trees. If these cions are to be
carried far, their ends ought to be put in a lump of
clay, and wrap them up in moss, which preserves
them fresh a month or longer; but these should
be cut from the trees earlier than what are to be
grafted near where the trees grow,

Next of the stock, or trees intended to be graft-
ed : these are either old trees growing where they
are to remain, whose fruit is intended to be
changed, or young trees raised in the nursery for
a supply to the garden. In the former, there is no
other choice than of the branches^ such as are

( 76 )

young, healthy, well situated, and have smooth
bark: if these grow against walls or espaliers,
there should be grafted six, eight or ten branches,
as is the size of the trees by which they will be
sooner furnished with branches again, than when
a less number of cions are put in 5 but in standard
trees, four, or at most six cions will be sufficient.

In the choice 0^ young stocks for grafting, prefer
those raised from seeds, and that have been once
or twice transplanted.

Next to these, the stocks raised from cuttings
' layers. Suckers from the roots of other trees
should always be rejected.

or

Having directed the choice of cions and stocks,
he then speaks of the operation^ and points out the
following tools, viz.

1st. A neat small hand-saw for cutting off the
heads of large stocks.

2. A good strong knife, with a thick back, to
make clefts in the stocks.

( " )

3. A sharp pen-knife, or budding-knife, to cut
the grafts.

4. A grafting chisel and a small mallet.

5. Bass strings or woollen yarn, to tie grafts
with ; and such other instruments and materials

as may be found necessary.

■—>

6. A quantity of clay, prepared a montli before
wanted, and kept turned and mixed like morter
every other day : this is to be made thus —

Get a quantity of strong, fat loam : take new
stone-horse dung, and break it in among the loam ;
cut a little straw or hay very small and mix
amongst it, for making the loam hold together
better; and if there be a quantity of salt added,
the clay will be prevented from dividing in dry
weather : stir these well together, putting water
to them as in making morter. It should be hol-
lowed like a dish, filled with water, and kept eve-
ry other day stirred : but let it not be exposed to
frost or drying winds ; and the cftcner stirred the
better.

( 78 )

Of late years, says Mr. F. some persons have
made use of another composition for grafting,
which keeps out the air better than clay. It is
composed oi turpentine, bees-wax and roshi, melt-
ed together; when of a proper consistence it is
put on the stock, round the graft, as the clay usual-
ly is applied. If but a quarter inch thick, it keeps
out the air better than the clay ; and as cold will
harden this, there is no danger of its being hurt by
frost, which is apt to cause the clay to cleave, and
sometimes to fall off; and when the heat of the
summer comes on, this mixture will melt and fall
off without trouble. In using this, there should
be a tin pot, with conveniency to keep a very gen-
tle fire with small coal ; otherwise the cold will
soon condense the mixture : but be careful not to
apply it too hot, lest the graft be injured. A per-
son a little accustomed to this composition will ap-
ply it very fast ; and it is much easier for him to
work with than clay, especially if the season is
ccld.

There are several ways of grafting, but there
are four principal ones, [see pi. XL] Perhaps the
common whip-grafting alone might suffice for the
farmer and country gardeners^ purposes in grafting :

( 79 )

1. Grafting in the rind, or shoulder graftings or
crown grafting ; proper only/or large trees : per-
formed the end of March or early in ^pril.

2. C/^-ar^/«^, or stock, or slit-grafting : in-
tended for lesser stocks, one or two, or more inches
diameter : in February or March.

3. fV hip-grafting, or tongue-grafting ; proper
for small stocks, of one inch, half an inch, or less
diameter : " It is the most effectual of any, and is
the most in use."

4. Grafting by approach, or ablactation. This
is practised when the stock to be grafted on, and
the tree from which the graft is taken, stand so neai'
each other that they may be joined ; and should
be performed in jlpril. It also is called the
Inarching method, and is chiefly used for Jas-
mines, Oranges, and other tender exotics.

For the several methods, in general, see the
plate XI. But the common method oi whip-graft-
ing will suffice for the/^/';?zf r'j- and country garden-
er s purposes. — It is thus performed by cutting off
the head of the stock slopifig ; then make a notch

( 80 )

in the slope towards the upper part downward, a
little more than half an inch deep to receive the
cion, which must be cut with a slope upward,
and a slit made in this slope like a tongue, which
tongue must be inserted into the slit made in the
slope of the stock, and the cion is placed on one
side of the stock, so that the two rinds of both
cion and stock may be equal and join together ex-
actly : then a ligature of bass fastens the cion so
that it may be easily displaced; after which it is
clayed over, as in former instances.

Grafting in the 4th method may, however, be
proper to practice sometimes, as the ivalnnt^ fig^
mulberry^ and certain other exotics, cannot be
grafted vi^ith effect in any other method, especially
evergreens : but then the trees are always weakly.

In a long continuance of r/A-^ weather^ the grafts
frequently/^/// of taking. It is therefore best to
grafc in moist giving weather.

It is better to use the composition on many ac-
counts. Rubbing some of it into the incision pre-
vents canker^ and in applying round the graft a
much less quantity will suffice than of the clay.

( 81 )

It need not be more than three inches round in
grafting small stems or shoots, and in proportion for
what are larger : the composition will keep the cion
moist, and will not crack and fall oft' in dry weather
as clay will. This composition used in grafting
should be made to work easily with a hand or knife,
rather softer than grafting-clay commonly is.

Grafting or budding should be performed near
^ may be to the upper side. Insert the cion or bud
at the joint a little above the cross shoot.

Budding is best learned how to be effectually per-
formed by actual instruction, seeing it done in expe-
rience : which in every neighbourhood may be ob-
tained. In three or four weeks it may be seen what
buds have taken : the shrivelled and black are dead.
Those that remain plump are to have their bandages
tlien loc^ened, to prevent pinching the stock and
kill the bud. — The March following cut off the
etock three inches above the bud, sloping it.

M

( 82 )

OF A GARDEN.

MR. FORSYTH recommends that the garden
be on a gentle declhity towards the south, a Httle
eastwardly inchned. If in a bottom, the wind has
the less effect on it ; but then damps ?iw\fogs will be
prejudicial to the fruit and herbage. If too high si-
tuated, the fury of the ^^inds will damage the
branches, blossoms and fruit. It should be well
sheltered from the iionb and cast^ to prevent blight-
ing winds affecting plants ; and also from the west-
erly winds, hurtful to gardens in spnng or summer
months.

The best shelter of them is from gentle rising
hills and plantations of forest-trees, at due distances
not to shade the garden j giving a free passage of
sun and air. Fruit-trees^ in shrubberies, he recom-
mends to be intermixed.

In laying out a new garden, he says, choose a
good so'il^ the deeper the better^ of a mellow, pliable
nature, moderately dry in quality. If it has an un-
cven surface^ do not be persuaded to lei^el it. The
best soil is a rich tncIlo^M loam ; the Morst a stiff
heavy cla)-. A light sand is also unfit. Whenever

( 83 )

horse dung is applied, it is first to be perfectly rot-
ted : it otherwise will burn up the crop.

The form he would have in preference, is an ob-
long or square, if at liberty ; and the size from one
acre to six or eight within the wall, according to de-
mand for vegetables in the family. Brick 'wall is pre-
ferable to stone, and ought to be 10 to 12 feet high :
but if there be a plenty of %) ailing or ground suffi-
cient to admit it, he would prefer a wall of ten feet
high, to those higher, l;eing convinced they will be
more convenient. If the ground is to be spared,
surround the garden luith a border or slip, 40 to 60
feet wide, or more ; and this, he says, inclose again
with an oak paling, 6 to 8 feet high, Avith a cheval
de frise. He recommends a cheval de frise to be
thus made : A piece of wood, long as convenient,
about four inches broad, one inch and quarter thick ;
the upper side planed to an edge, sloping from the
top and centre on each side, like a roof. Draw a
line on each side from end to end about one fourth
of an inch below the upper edge and centre : through
these lines drive tivehe-penny nails about four inches
distance from each other, so as to come out near the
upper edge on the opposite side. Each nail, he adds,
sliould be opposite the space between two nails on

( 84 )

the other side. The nail-heads should be sunk in
the wood, and small strips nailed over them : then
drive in tenter-hooks between the nail points, and
nail the whole firmly on the outside of the top of the
paling.

By making slips on the outside oi\\\t garden wail,
you will have ground for gooseberries, currants,
strawberries, &c. cucumbers or melons: and both
sides the wall may be planted.

The new garden should be ploughed or dug thre€
or four times before any thing be planted in it.

It is a convenience that a garden lies near a rivtt
or brook ; from these conduct the water by drains
or pipes. If the garden is too high for distributing
the water in those ways, and it is near a public road,
and on a declivity, make a drain or cut from the road,
for carrying the water of it in rainy weather to a
large cistern or tank in the upper part of the garden.
The best time is the night for turning on the watef
into the garden. The pipes, cocks, &:c. for facili-
tating it will seem a considerable expence at first j
but they repay it by saving time which would b6
spent in pumping and carrying water. If pumped

( 85 )

from a deep ivell, it should be into a large reservoir,
in which it should be exposed to sun and air some
days.

The middle ^\'alks, he says, should be seven feet
wide, enough for a cart to pass ; the others tliree
or four feet broad, with a border on each side, 5 or
6 feet \\ ide at least between the walk and the fruit-
trees. In kitchen gardens, walks are generally gra-
velled, seldom in turf ; frequent wheelhig and tread-
ing soon destroying the grass : but a binding sand
makes good walks, easily kept : for v\ hen moss or
weeds begin to grow, they may be cleaned \viih a
horse hoe, or scuffled over with a Dutch hoe, in dry
weather, raking it a day or two af cr ; but sea- coal
ashes make the best kitchen garden walks, cnsicr
kept than others, and firm and dry : cleaner than
sand, especially after a frost. Bottoms of walks are
filled with brick rubbish, chippings of stones, or
gravel and stones. There sometimes will be under-
ground drains to make.

When the soil is ivet and stiff, subject to detain
moisture, under-ground drains must Qdiry oiF the
water ; making the main drain under the %vali\ to
receive and carry off the \^atcr under the quarters.

( 86 )

Good^ ijoell-flavored fruit can never be produced,
unless drai?iing, where the soil lies wet, be practised ;
and kitchen plants will also be very defective with-
out that attention.

Borders under the walls, i/isidc, should be 10 to
20 feet wide, as is the size of the garden, for giv-
ing free passage to the roots of the trees to spread.
A footpath should be two and a half foot front) the
wall, for greater ease in nailing trees, gathering
fruit, &c. This iva/k should be two to two and a
half feet wide (to admit a barrow or barrow-engine
in watering the trees), and covered a\ ith sand, or
cocil-ashes better, about 2 or 3 inches thick, without
mbbish or gravel below. On these borders may be
carl}' or late crops ; but avoid to plant any deep -root-
ting plants^ such as cabbages, beans, peas, (except
peas for the early frames), as they would be very
hurtful to the trees.

Melons arc best v.orkcd in brick-pits^ coped with
stone or oak, 12 feet imde and two and a half deep :
the length according to the number of frames to be
worked. Size of lights for early melons, 5 feet
longy 3 broad : — for others they require to be 6 feet
long^ and four broad. The former should be four,

( 87 )

and the latter three light boxes. — For the pits a
nine-inch wall will be sufficient.

There should, he says, be a walk between the
ridges, 6 or 7 feet broad, sufficient to admit a cart
to carry dung ; much more expeditious than wheel-
ing. The %valk should be made up as high as the
coping, and sloping gently towards each end ; the
bottom should be filled up and covered as before di-
rected.

A loose drain should be made along the middle
of the bottom of the pit, to carry off wet and oozing
of the dung to a cistern or tank made on purpose
to receive it.

When a garden is planted and finished, says Mr.
Forsyth, it a\ ill be convenient to have a plan of it,
with the name of each tree inserted in its proper
place.

Walls of kitchen gardens, from ten to fourteen feet
high, should have ih^ foundation two or two and a
a half bricks thick ; the off-set not above one course
higher than the level of the border : the av all then
to set-off a brick and a half thick. Piers should

( 88 )

strenf^hen the walls, 40 to 60 feet apart ; to project
half a brijk beyond the wall. If the coping is of
luood, it answers ^vell for hanging nets to against
^^fts of birds.

He repeats the superiority of bricks over stone
walls, favoring fruits better in ripening. When a
kitchen garden contmns four acres, it may be inter-
sected by two or more cross ivalis ; which greatly
augments the quantity of fruit ; warms and shelters
the garden from high Avinds.

ORCHARDS.

WHERE a large supply of fruit is wanted, Mr.
Forsyth says, Orchards are appropriated to the
grov/th oi' standard fruit-trees only ; and generally
consist of apple-trees, pear-trees, plum-trees and
clierry-trees ; but a complete Orchard ought also
to have quinces, medlars, mulberries, services, fil-
berts, Spanish nuts, and barberries ; as also walnuts
and chsenuts. These last would break high w inds,
and he would prefer to plant them along the bounda-
ry of the Orchard. In choosing the trees, admit
none but v;ith good roots, fair clean stems, and pro-
per heads.

%

( 89 )

In selecting pears and apples let the assortment
range in succession, for supply of the table during
the whole year. A very few of the summer sorts
will suffice ; — more of the autumn; — still more of
the winter will be called for. On the winter sorts
the dependence is from January to July, — The me-
tbod of presermug them, post.

What has been said of the situation and soil of a
Garden^ also applies to Orchards — that they be ra-
ther elevated than low. On a gentle declivity, open
to the south and south-east. Also they should be
well sheltered from the eastern, northerly and west-
ern winds : but see of Gardens^ in its place. Such
'ds walnut saidcbesnut-trees are advantageously placed
on the exterior of the Orchard. The size of an
Orchard in the cyder-making counties of England
may be one to twenty acres, or more. A loamy
soil is best : shingly and gravelly soils disagree with
fruit-trees, unless intermixed with a /o^wz. Orchards
should be dunged once in two or three ) ears.

He recommends washing the Orchard trees an-
nually in February or March^ \\ith the following
mixture, to destroy eggs of insects, and prevent
moss from growing. JMix fresh cow-dung with

{ 90 )

nrine and soap-suds ; and with the mixture wash
o^er the stems and branches of trees, as you would
}'our room with whitewash ; cutting off ihe cankery
parts and scrape off the moss, before the washing.
In the course of the summer there will be a fine new
bark coming on. Pare off all old canker. When
necessary to take off all the outer bark, the stem, &c.
are to be covered with the composition and povjder^
patting it gently do^Mi, as in the case ^\ hen large
liiiibs aie cut off.

Repeating the abo\'e wash in autumn, after fall
of the leaf, will destroy the eggs of many insects,
that hatch in autumn and winter. This washing is
found of great service to all fruit and forest trees.

GATHERING APPLES AND PEARS.

TIME AND MANNER THEREOF. MANAGEMENT

OF THE FRUIT-ROOM, &C.

NEVER beat or shake apples down — hand-pick
all, from standing on steps for the purpose. — They
should be light, and so contri\ ed that the ladder may
be disengaged from the back at pleasure ; fastening

( 91 )

together by a bolt at top. At top should be a broad
step to stand on, with room for the basket holding
the fruit. Have, in the beginnmg together, hand-
baskets of different sizes, and also large baskets or
hampers, and wheel-ban*ows. At the bottoms of
the large baskets and hampers, perfectly dry short
fine grass from summer mow ings, kept clean and
dry for the pui'posc.

He observes to gather the fruit, as a mark of its
ripeness, when it begins to fall, (not wind-falls, or
from the caterpillar). If the fruit comes off with-
out any force used, it is presumed to be ripe enough.
But sickness, &c. of the trees may make it seem
riper than in fact it is. All fruit will s/jrhel, he
says, that is gathered before it is ripe.

If the fruit be in the least bruised it will not keep ;
tlierefore the person on the steps picks it carefully,
and gently lays it in the basket : and the small
baskets are to be gently emptied into the large.

When the fruit begins to fall of itself, cover the
ground under the tree with soft grass mowings,
pease-haulm, or oat or barley straw, quite dry. This
that drops of itself, lay up separate from, and use it
before, that which is hand-picked*

( 02 )

In the fruit-room lay dry soft grass on the floor :
lay the fruit gently from the baskets in heaps on the
grass. To siveat the fruit, co^'er it 2 or 3 inches
thick on the top \\ith some of the grass ; the heaps
may be two to three feet high. They lie in heaps
two weeks ; tlien open and turn them oxer, wiping
each apple or pear with a dry cloth ; to be frequent-
ly dried during the process. The heaps now re-
main 8 or 10 days covered as before, for throwing
off the watery crudities. Then ivipe the fruit one
by one.

Gather the fruit in dry weather, and when the
dew is off; nor is it to be gathered in the evening
after the dew has begun to fall. Air should be some-
times admitted for carrying off the sweat.

The most perfect way of keeping, as used in
England, is to pack it in glazed earthen jars, sepa-
rately trapping peai's and apples in soft paper. Put
dried bran in the jar, then a layer of fruit ; then a
little more bran; and so on alternately. When
full, gently shake the jar ; fill up \\i\h. bran and paper
at top of all. Cover with bladder to perfectly ex-
clude accession of air. Fit on the cover of the jar ;
and it is best kept in a room where a fire may be,
in wet or damp weather.

( 93 )

CANKER AND GUM.

CANKER is a disease which occasions the bark
of trees to grow rough and scabby ; and turns the
nx)ood affected to a rusty ^ broivii colour. It will kill
the tree if not stopt.

The Canker nriay arise, on apple-trees, from inju-
dicious pruning, from \ht footstalks of the fruit be-
ing left on the trees ^ and from injuries in applying
ladders in gathering the fruit. — Another cause, very
ixict autumns^ which prevents the young wood from
ripening, and a hard frost setting in after it, kills the
young shoots. These are not to be left on the tree.
Birds and insects destroying the buds, also give the
Canker.

Dead shoots left on the tree through summer,
bring on Canker. These are to be cut off in the
end of April or early in May. He advises to cut
two or three buds, or even more, below the appa-
rently diseased part : cut down till the brown colour
in the shoot disappears, and notliing but sound
white wood remains.

( 94 )

All the diseased parts of the bark must be pared
off. The inner ivbite bark is frequently infected :
this also must be cut away till no infection appears
to remain. The infection in the inner hark appears
like dots made with a pen ; all whereof is to be cut
out clean. Wherever Gum oozes, be assured the
Canker is not quite eradicated.

When the trunk is become hollo\v, cut the loose
rotten part clean out, till you come to the sound
wood, and round the edges of the hollow part. Then
apply the composition in a liquid state, with a pain-
ter's brush : then shake some of the powder of wood-
ashes and burnt bones over the composition, and pat
it gently down with the hand. See of making and
laying on of the composition.

When the decay is great, the ground is to be open-
ed, the roots examined, and the rotten parts to be
cut away : then make up a mass of the composition^
mixed with seme clay ; fill the hollow ^\ ith it, to
within about two inches of the surface of the ground,
treading it, or pressing it w ith the hand close as
possible, for preventing wet from penetrating to tlie
roots, and leave the surface of the composition
sloping from the tree towards the outside of the
border. See.

( 95 )

The Gum is a kind of gangrene incident to friiit-
rees of the stone kind ; and arises from injudicious
pruning^ from bruises y or injuries received in the
wood or bark. The Gum is to be cut out perfect-
ly clean ; and grubs must be sought for, and they
are to be cut out before the composition is applied.

OF MIL-DEW, HONEY-DEW, AND
BLIGHTS.

MR. FORSYTH, in general, speaks in the strain
of others writing on these subjects, who have little
more than guessed at the nature of these disorders :
the most likely surmise of Mil-dew, &c. seems to
be what he quotes from Mr. Segar ; \\ here he says,
that Mil-dew is of a very sharp corrosive nature,
and by its acrimony hinders the circulation of the
nutritious sap.

Mr. Forsyth says, when danger is apprehended,
wash or sprinkle the trees well with urine and lime-
water mixed ; and when the young and tender
shoots are much infected, ^vash them ^vell with a
woollen cloth dipped in the mixture following, to
the clearing them of all glutinous matter, that their

( 96 )

respiration and perspiration may not be obstructed :
r Take tobacco a pound, sulphur two pounds, un-
slacked lime a peck, and a pound of elder buds : on
these pour ten gallons boiling water — cover it close,
to stand till cold : then add cold water, as much as
will fill a hogshead. After standing a few days to
settle, take off the scum, and it is fit for use.

The Honey-dew he directs to be treated in the
same manner : and he cautions tliat trees be washed
or watered early enough in the day to dry before
the cold air of the night arrives ; nor should it be
applied whilst the sun shines very hot.

Blights, he says, sometimes destroy the whole
tree ; but oftener tlie leaves and blossoms only.
Wash, he adds, with soap-suds and urine ; the sooner
the better ; and even with a woollen cloth dipped in
the same liquid as above directed for mil-dew.

OF INSECTS.

UNDER the head of Insects, Mr. Forsyth gives
a long list of them ; concerning which, the imagi-
nation becomes tired ; and it is tedious, and too ge-

( 97 )

nerally unsatisfactory. Of the Aphis ; he says
the Aphides or Plant-lice are a numerous tribe,
amounting to 75 species. Of the y^canis there
are 82 species. Moisture, he thinks, best de-
stroys them, as in hot-houses it does many other
insects. The Acarus (or Red Spider) also de-
stroy or much injure 'melons in dry weather.
There are other species of 160 sorts.

It would be heavy work to enumerate those
plagues, when the accounts of them and the me-
thods proposed for reducing them are not general-
ly satisfactory for answering the views of the hus-
bandman therein. The general applications to
the trees and plants are powders of ashes and lime
mixed and strewed on the?n — z\so lime-water, strew-
ed through the tube and its head, of a water en-
gine that forces. — Moreover, in hot-houses, 7nois'
ture destroys some sorts — Water alone is applied
often in hot-houses. Melons he directs to be ex-
amined, and when the leaves curl and crack in the
middle, the Acarus or R ed Spider may be presumed
to have effected the injury, although as yet they
may not be visible to the eye. In this state of the
melons, in fine warm sunny weather, water them
all over the leaves from a watering-pot with a

( 98 )

rose J or an engine, about six in the morning, and
about eight o'clock shade them with mats^ if the
sun shines, and shut the frames close down till
eleven : then admit a little air, the mats remaining
till three in the afternoon ; then take them off.
Endeavour to water the under side of the leaves,
and the vines may be cautiously turned partly for
the purpose. In cold frosty weather do not sprin-
kle the plants.

A wash o^ urine and soap-suds accumulated and
stored in winter, he largely uses to his trees dis-
tempered with insects, caterpillars or vermin ;
and in su?nmer the mixture is lowered with water.
It kills also slugs near the roots of trees. Urine
and suds are saved in tubs in winter for the sum-
mer's use.

On Forest-Trees his treatise is important ; but
it is here prolix ; and being a subject not yet scarce
and striking to the attention of the American peo-
ple, this is for the present here omitted.

( 99 )

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

DISEASES, DEFECTS AND INJURIES OF FRUIT, AND
FRUIT-TREES.

MR. FORSYTH, in thirty years practice in
cultivating, pruning, and keeping garden fruit-
trees, observed that from, natural causes, acci-
dents^ and unskilful ?nanagement^ they were sub-
ject to injuries of various kinds, which always di-
minished their fertility, and frequently rendered
them wholly unproductive.

He thereupon offers to disclose his practice and
management with his composition, formerly appli-
ed in the manner of a plaster, but now in a liquid
state, and laid on with a painter's brush. He im-
putes to it a soft and healing nature ; an absorbent
and adhesive quality ; and that by resisting the force
of washing rains ^ the contraction of nipping frosts,
and the effects of a warvi smt or drying winds, it
excludes the pernicious influence of a changeable
atmosphere.

( 100 )

The discovery of it, he adds, is the result of
much reflection and study, during a long course
of years, and of a great variety of experiments,
made at a very considerable expence, to ascertain
the efficacious powers of the application. " Nor
shall I hesitate a moment to declare my firm be-
lief, that inhe7-ever it shall be properly applied by
the proprietors of gardc7is or orchards, and ifoo^j",
it will be productive of all the advantage that can
be derived from restoring as well as preserving
vigour 2.ud fertility in all kinds of fruit-trees ; as
also from preventing decay ^ and promoting health
and sound timber in every species of fbrest-trecs."

Mr. Forsytlfs Directions for making a Qovivozi-
iioYi for curing diseases^ defects and injuries in all
kinds of Fruit and Forest-trees — and the method
of preparing trees and laying on the Composition.

" Take one bushel of fresh cow-dung, half a
'' bushel of Ihne rubbish of old buildings (that
" from the ceilings of rooms is preferable), half a
" bushel of wood-ashes, and a sixteenth part of a
" bushel of pit or river sandr the three last articles
" are to be sifted fine before thev are mixed j then

( 101 )

*' work them well together with a spade, and af-
*' terwards with a wooden beater, until the stuff
*' is very smooth, like fine plaster used for the
" ceilings of rooms.

" The Composition being thus made, care must

" be taken to prepare the tree properly for its ap-

*' plication, by cutting away all the dead, decayed

*' and injured parts, till you come to the fresh,

*' sound wood, leaving the surface of the wood

" very smooth, and rounding off the edges of the

" bark with a draw-knife or other instrument,

" perfectly smooth, which must be particularly

" attended to ; then lay on the plaster about one

" eighth of an inch thick all over the part where

" the wood or bark has been so cut away ; finish-

" ing off the edges as thin as possible ; then take

*' a quantity of dry powder of wood-ashes mixed

" with the sixth part of the same quantity of the

" ashes of burnt bones ; put it into a tin box, with

" holes in the top, and shake the powder on the

" surface of the plaster, till the whole is covered

'• over with it, letting it remain for half an hour

" to absorb the moisture ; then apply more pow-

*' der, rubbing it on gently with the hand, andrc-

" peating the application of the powder till the

" whole plaster becomes a dry smooth surface.

( 102 )

(C

All trees cut down near the ground should
have the surface made quite smooth, rounding
" it off in a small degree, as before mentioned ;
" and the dry powder directed to be used afcer-
" wards should have an equal quantity of powder
" of alabaster mixed with it, in order the better
*' to resist the dripping of trees and heavy rains.

** If any of the Composition be left for a future
*' occasion, it should be kept in a tub or other ves-
" sel, and urine of any kind poured on it, so as
*' to cover the surface ; otherwise the atmosphere
" will greatly hurt the efficacy of the application.

" Where lime rubbish of old buildings cannot
'' be easily got, take pounded chalk, or common
*' lime, after having been slacked a month at least.

" As the growth of the tree will gradually af-
*' feet the plaster, by raising up its edges next the
*' bark, ofcre should be taken where that happens
*' to rub it over with the finger when occasion may
*' require (which is best done when moistened by
" rain), that the plaster may be kept whole, to
" prevent the air and wet from penetrating into
" the wound."

( 103 )

" Additional Directions for making and usi7ig the
Composition.

*' To the foregoing directions for making and
** applying the composition^ it is necessary to add
" the following.

" As the best way for using the composition is
" found, by experience, to be in a liquid state ;
" it must therefore be reduced to the consistence
" of pretty thick paint, by mixing it up with a
" sufficient quantity of uri}ie and soap-suds^ and
*' laid on with a painter's brush. The powder of
*' wood ashes and burnt bones is to be applied as
" before directed, patting it down with the hand.

" When trees are become hollow you must
^^ scoop out all the rotten, loose and dead parts
*' of the trunk, till you come to the solid wood,
" leaving the surface fmooth ; then cover thehol-
** low, and every part where the canker has been
" cut out, or branches lopped off, with the com-
" position ; and as the edges grow, take care
*' not to let the new wood come in contact with
" the dead, part of which it may be sometimes
** necessary to leave ; but cut out the old dead

( 104 )

*' wood as the new advances, keeping a hollow
*' between them, to allow the new wood room to
"" extend itself, and thereby fill np the cavity,
" which it will do in time, so as to make as it were
'' a new tree. If the cavity be large you may cut
'' away as much at one operation as will be suffi-
" cient for three years. But in this you are to be
*•■ guided by the size of the wound and other cir-
" cumstances. When the new wood, advancing
'' from both sides of the wound has almost met,
*' cut off the bark from both the edges, that the
*' solid wood may join, v/hich, if properly ma-
*' naged, it will do leaving only a slight seam in
^' the bark. If the tree be very much decayed,
*' do not cut away all the dead wood at once,
*' which would weaken the tree too much, if a
" standard, and endanger it being blown down by
*' the wind. It will therefore be necessary to leave
*' part of the dead wood at first, to strengthen the
" tree, and to cut it out by degrees as the nev/
'^ wood is formed. If there be any canker, or gum
" oozing, the infected parts must be pared off, or
*' cut out with a proffer instrument. When the
" stem is very much decayed, and hollow, it will
*' benecessary toopen the ground ^md examine the
^^ roots ; then proceed as directed for hollow peach

( 105 )

" trees, [see pi. II. and V. which shew the manner
*' of preparing hollow trees, and also the growing
*' of the wood.3
•
*' Some months before the publication of the Ob-
'' ser'oat'ions on the diseases y ^c. of fruit and forest
*' trees y I had tried the composition in a liquid state,
*' but did not think myself warranted to make it
*' public until I had experienced its effects through
" the winter. The success answered my most san-
*' guine expectations ; and I have used it in that
" way ever since. By using the composition in a
*' liquid state^ more than three fourths of the time
" and labour is saved ; and I find it is not so liable
" to be thrown off as the lips grow, as when laid on
" in the consistence of plaster : It adheres firmly to
*' the naked part of the wound, and yet easily gives
*' way as the new wood and bark advances."

'* The first time that I tried the composition in a
*' liquid form was upon an elm A\hich had been
*' planted about twenty years. It had been very
" much bruised by the roller, had several cavities
" in it, and was very much bark-bound besides.
" Having prepared the wounds, and applied the
" composition with a painter's brush, I took my

( 106 )

" knife and scarified the tree in four places ; I also
*' shaved off with a drawing-knife all the cankery
*' outer bark, and covered the iMhole tree with the
*' composition^ shaking \ht powder of luood-ashee and
'* bimit bones allo'uer it. A very heavy rain began
" in the evening, and continued all night ; yet, to
" my great surprise, in the morning I found that
*' only some of the powder, which had not had time
" to dry and incorporate with the composition,
" was washed off. I now repeated the powder,
" and without any thing more being done to the
" tree, the wounds healed up, and the bark was re-
" stored so compleatly that three years ago it could
*' hardly be discovered where the wounds had been.
" The scarifications had also disappeared. Some
*' of the wounds were thirteen inches long, eight
" broad, and three deep. Since the time \\hen it
" was scarified, the tree has increased ten inches
*' more in circumference than a healthy tree plant-
" ed at the same time with it, about sixteen feet
*' distant, which was not scarified.'*

( 107 )

BUDDING.

THIS is practised upon all sorts of stone fruit in
particular ; such as peaches, nectarines, cherries,
plums, &c. also oranges and jasmines ; and is pre-
ferable to any sort of grafting for most kinds of fruit.

Provide a sharp pen-knife with Jiat baft for rais-
ing the bark of the stock to admit the bud, and some
sound bass mat soaked In water. The cuttings be-
ing taken oif from the trees, choose a smooth part of
the stock, 5 or 6 inches above the surface of the
ground, if designed ybr dwarfs, and for half stand-
ards at three feet; hut for standards, bud six or more
feet above the ground : then cut horizontally across
the rind of the stock ; and from the middle of that
cut make a slit downwards about two inches long,
forming a T : be careful not to cut too deep and
wound the stock. Having cut off the leaf from the
bud, leaving the footstalk remaining, make a cross
cut about half an inch below the eye, and with the
knife slit off the bud with part of the wood to it, in
form of an escutcheon ; this done, next with the
knife pull off thdX part of the wood vdiich was taken
with the bud, observing if the eye of the bud be left

( 108 )

to it or not, (buds that lose the eye in stripping arc
good for nothing) ; then gently having raised the
hark of the stock where the cross incision was made,
with the flat handle of the knife clear off the wood,
thrust the bud therein, placing it smooth between the
rind and the wood of the stock, cutting off any part
of the rind belonging to the bud which may be too
long for the slit made in the stock ; and having thus
exactly f tied the bud to the stock, tie them closely
round with bass mat, beginning at the under part of
the slit, and proceed to the top ; taking care not to
bind round the eye of the hud, but leave it open.

In three or four weeks, you will see which have
taken. The shrivelled and black are dead. The
fresh and plump are joined ; at which time loosen
the bandage, that the stock be not pinched.

In the next March cut off the stock three inches
above the bud ; sloping it that water pass off" : to
the part above the bud, fasten the shoot proceeding
from the bud. This must continue but one year:
then cut it off" close above the bud.

Time of innoculating is the middle oi June to the
middle of August. The time may be ascertaineci by

( 109 )

trymg li the buds will come off well from the wood
or not.

Apricots are the first, and oranges commonly the
last sorts innoculated. Oranges should never be
iimoculated before the middle of August. Cloudy
"weather is the best : rather avoid the middle of the
day for it. Avoid the erroneous practice of throw-
ing cuttings into water.

All trees of the same genus, which agree in their
flavor and fruit, will take upon each other under
grafting or innoculation : All the nut-bearing trees
on each other, and all the plum-bearing trees, in-
cluding almond, peach, nectarine, apricot, &:c.

Success of experiments on Heading-down, Composi-
tion^ &fr.

MR. FORSYTH says, 'that since he published
** Observations on the diseases, defects and injuries
in Fruit and Forest trees,*' he has been assidious
in making experiments. A great many hollow trees
that had little more than the bark remaining sound,
have within a few years been filled up : — Others
that were headed down within a few feet of tlie

( no )

ground have their stumps now completely covered
by the leading shoot, forming handsome trees ; and
the places nvbcre they were headed a.re only discerned
by a faint cicatrix. There were many such in-
stances. He gives but few accounts of them.

A lime-tree, he says, 18 inches in diameter,
wh(ise trunk Avas decayed and hollow from top to
bottom, to which, after cutting out the decayed
wood, he had applied the composition 16 years ago,
■was last year cut down, on purpose to examine the
progress it had made in the interior part, and A\'as
found entirely filled up with new, sound wood, com-
pletely incorporated with what little old wood re-
mained when he first took it in hand. The body of
this tree he keeps, cut into short lengths, to shew to
others.

An old elm, he arlds, the inside totally decayed,
and two large cart loads 6f rotten wood taken there-
from at diflferent times, has made shoots upwards of
20 feet higli in the course of six years. Another
elm, headed twenty feet from the gi'ound, has pro-
duced a shoot 46 feet high, and 5 feet 9 inches in
circumference. — A lime, cut down near the ground,
has 410W a shoot 20 feet high, which entirely covers

( lU )

the stnvci^^ forming a Jine tree ^ 21 inches in circum-
ference.— A sycamore, treated in the same manner,
is now 30 feet high, and 26 inches in circumference.
Another is 30 feet high, and 2 feet in circumference.
These, he says, are 7io%vJifie thvhing trees, and the
cicatrices hardly discernable !

A horse-chesnut, headed down, has produced,
from its hollow stump, four line shoots, one where-
of is cut down, the other three are upwards of thirty
feet high ; and one of them is 26 inches in circum-
ference. Two of the remaining three are to be cut
down, leaving one to form the body of the tree.

About two and a half feet in length, on one side
of a large diseased elm, which was for some time left
to nature, still continued to decay till the composi-
tion was applied : new wood and bark are now form-
ing.

An elm, entirely hollow, was also headed dowii.
The new head now spreads 24 feet, and is 18 feet
high. Another large hollow elm, near the last, was
headed down : it afterwards produced a shoot 60
feet high, and three and a half feet in diameter.
There are many other elms, some with wounds 10

( 112 }

■*-
fcet long and 2 feet broad, now entirely filled up ;

besides many sycamores, oaks, and other forest
trees, all restored to a flourishing state, by hai)'mg
the dead wood cut out ^ and the composition applied.
An oak that was headed dow7i six years ago, is re-
presented in pi. XII.

In hollow trees y the rotten and decayed woo(\. must
be cut out at difi'erent times, as the new wood comes
in contact with it : but beware not to cut out too
much at once ; but leave enough to support the tree
and prevent it from being blown down by high
winds, till the new is strong enough for that pur-
pose : the remainder may then be cut out.

Mr. Aberdeen, gardener, has followed Mr. For-
syth's method for some time with great success, in
the house and " on the natural wall.''''

Hearing several years of the very Jine and Lii'ge
crops produced in xho. forcing houses on Black Heath,
Mr. Forsyth took a journey thither in company
with Mr. WedgcAv^ood, to inquire into the method
pursued there for obtaining these superior crops,
and was candidly told that Mr. Stuart several years
ago had seen Mr. Forsyth'' s method used at Ken-

( 113 )

sington Gardens, and was convinced of its advan-
tages above the old ; he adopted it with great
success.

John Wedgewood, Esq. practises in Mr, For-
sytlfs method with great success.

Lord Frederick Campbell sent to Mr. Forsyth a
list of 85 fruit-trees that were headed down^ and af-
terwards trained and primed according to Mr. F. —
From a cankery, unfruitful state, ever green with
moss, they are now fruitful, healthy and flourishing.
— These trees are now proper patterns for others
desirous of giving the composition, and method of
training and pruning recommended by this treatise,
a fair trial.

Successful trials have also been made, oithe same^
at the Duke of Dorset's.

.*:'

^

( lu )

THE GOOD EFFECTS

MR. FORSYTH'S COMPOSITION, IN VARIOUS CLIMATES.

THE Economical Society of St. Petersburgh ex-
presses great satisfaction with the effects of Mr.
Forsyth*s applications of the composition^ &c. and
this excellent idea of a Mr. Guthrie to him, appears
well worth our notice — " That he is happy in ex-
pressing, individually, his satisfaction from Mr. For-
syth* s sagacious application of the chiurgicalart to ve-
getation ; and declares that the extirpation of the dis-
eased parts ^ and the use of an unguent to 'ujard off the
noxious actio7i of the air and humidity^ during the ex-
ertions of nature to repair loss of substance^ and the
languid circulation of the i)egetable juices^ appear
highl}'' judicious."

In the hot climate of IncHa^ and the opposite ex-
tteme of the cold of Russia, the cojuposition was in
constant ajid successful use ; even 400 miles south
of Madras ; and also in the India company's cinna-
^ mon plantation : and it was likev/ise applied with
equal success to the fruit-trees of the country.

( 115 )

Besides these, there are many satisfactory and
wonderful instances of hnproiiement to trees and
fmits by the application of the compositio7i.

HEADING-DOWN.

FOR the information of persons who are but lit-
tle acquainted with practical gardenings Mr. For-
syth gives the following explanation of what is call-
ed Heading-do'wn :

\NhtT\ young trees 2cc^ plaiited out from the nurse-
ry as soon as they begin to break in the spring, they
are cut down to three or four eyes, according to their
strength, to furnish them with bearing ivood : if this
^vere not done, they would run up in long naked
branches, and would not produce one quarter of the
fruit which they do when this operation is properly
performed. The same holds good in heading all
kinds of old trees.

An opinion prevails (especially amongst app/e-
tree cidtivators) that trees never bear \\ell after be-
ing headed-down. It may be so sometimes, when
trees are improperly headed-dov\'n, all at once, by

( 116 )

giving a siKlden check to the sap. But, if headhig
were done gradually ; that is, if ei^ery other branch
all over the tree were headed at a proper length, cut-
thig as near to those parts where the shoots appear,
as possible, in February or March^ or even as late
as May, in- the course of the summer they would
throw out fine long shoots. These should not be
shortened the J/jst year, unless it be a few to Jill 2ip
the head of the tree with bear'mg wood; and that
should be in the following spring ; cutting them to
six or eight inches in length, according to their
strength. In the next spring after the first branches
are headed, the remaining old branches maybe cut
out ; and these will soon/7/ the head of the tree with
fine bearifig wood. In three years, trees so headed
will produce a much greater quantity ai fruity and
of better quality than they did before the operation
was performed.

Heading-down Orange-trees.
Just as Mr. Forsyth's manuscript of his Treatise
was going to the press, he was informed by the late
Portuguese Ambassador at London, that on his re-
turn to Portugal he had found the Orange-trees on
the Prince of Brasil's plantations in a very unhealthy
and decayed state ; and applied tp Mr. Forsyth for

( 11-7 )

some of the composition^ and a copy of his pamphlet
on the diseases, &c. in fruit and forest trees, that he
might make trials of the remedy on the trees of that
country. Mr. Forsyth sent him a ca'fek of the com-
position^ ^^'ith directions for preparing the trees and
laying it on.

He advises, that when it is found necessar}' to
head-down Orange-trees^ they be not cut quite down
to the stem ; but to leave two or three inches of the
branches, some more, some less ; ahvays remem-
bering to cut near to a joint y and in such a manner
as X.oform a handsome head; and to apply the com-
position immediately. In doing this, however, he
adds, it w ill be necessary to leave a few younc: shoots
to draw up the sap. If the trees ar^ infected with
insects, the stems must be washed with soap-suds
and urine, and well scrubbed with a hard brush.

Mr. Forsyth informs us, he always leaves three
different years branches on apple-trees, when the
first shoot, d, is cut off at e, (see the pi. VI. lig. 2.)
It is to be observed, the next shoot, i", will be full
of fruit-buds, if it has not been shortened; Mhen it
begins to groiv weak, cut it oft' at g. The next cut-
tins; must be at i, when the branch h is tired of

( 118 )

bearing. Proceed thus all over the tree Avith care
and attention, and it will soon be perceived the ad-
vantage of this method of pruning above the com-
mon mode ; for by it the trees may be kept in a con-
stant state of bearing, Mhich, if left to nature, would
only produce a crop of fruit once in two or three
years. Always remember, ■\\'hen the shoot that has
done bearing is cut off, to apply the composition im-
mediatdy, and to rub off the shoots where they are
too numerous.

The best time, he says, for pruning apple-trees is
April or May, after the peaches, nectarines and
cherries are pruned.

r
The sviall shoots crossing each other should be

cut off"; leaving the strongest to fill up the tree and

make a fine handsome head.

The apple-trees chosen frooi the nursery, as well
as the apricot and peach-trees, should have strongs

straight, and clear stems.

Speaking, as it seems, rather of dwarf trees or
trees in borders, he says, the same directions for
heading must be observed, according to the season

( no )

and the time of the buds breaking forth, leaving the
number according to the strength of each tree ; cut-
ting as close as possible to the top biid^ that the
leading shoot may more easily cover the wound ;
and constantly observing- to rub off all ihe buds that
come by the side of the leading shoot, which would
otherwise rob it of its nourishment and strength,
and so present it from making a fme leader. (See
pi. VI. fig. 1.) Remember, he says, also to cut it
annually to the length of from nine to eighteen
inches, according to its strength, till the tree has got
to that height to which you would have it run, and
according to the extent of the ground ; w'hich height
may be from eight to twehefett. By these means,
the trees will throw out horizontal braaches on eve-
ry side, and soon for ?n ha7ickomc heads for d^oarfs.

He advises that divarf trees be not suffered to ruH
higher than twelve feet. From eight to twelve is a
convenient height. If allowed to run higher, they
wuU become naked ai bottom, the fruit a\ ill be liable
to be blown down, and llje tojis broken by high
winds.

1:^0 )

A GREAT LESSON IN RAISING OAKS, ^c.

According to Mr. Forsyth :

WHO says, it is a generally received opinion,
that when an oak loses its tap-root in transplanting,
it never produces another. But this he thus refutes.
He transplanted a bed of oak-plants into a fresh bed,
cutting the tap-roots near to some of the small side
roots or fibres shooting from them. In the secona
year after y he headed one half of the plants dovjn^ and
left the other half to nature. In X\it first season, those
headed-doivji made shoots six feet long, and com-
pletely co^'c-red the tops of the old stems, leaving
only a faint cicatrix ; and had produced new tap-roots
upwards of tv/o and a half feet long. One of these
trees he left at the Revenue -office to shew the advan-
ta^c of trampl anting and heading-down voun^ oaks,
when done in a proper manner ; of which he also
gives directions for Chcsnuts. See p. 70.

By this method of treating the plants, the oaks,
Skc. will grow 7nore in one year than in six when
treated in the common w ay.

( 121 )

The otJier half^ not headed doiun^ grow not one
fourth the size of those headed. One of the
headed-doivn is eighteen feet high ; and, s x inches
from the ground, measures j/^<few inches in circum-
ference : at three feet from the ground, ten inches ;
and at six feet, nine and a half inches: when one
of the largest of those not headed-doivn^ measures
oviVj Jive and a half feet high^ and three and three
quarters inches- in circumference^ 2X.six inches from
the ground. This is a convincing proof that trans-
planting and heading' doiun oaks is the most success-
ful and advantageous way of treating them ; and
by it they are sooner out of danger from cattle,
as well as from vermin so frequently injurious
to young trees.

Of Oak-trees^ it is further to be observed, from
Mr. Forsyth's Treatise^ that where they had re-
ceived very considerable damage from various ac-
cidents, blows, bruises, cutting deep letters, rub-
bing off the bark by the ends of rollers, cart-
wheels, and m.utilated branches or limbsf a per-
fect cure has been made, and sound timber pro-
duced, through his applications.

'#',

NOTES

FRUITS AND AMERICAN GARDENING;

DESIGNS FOR PROMOTING THE RIPENING OP

FRUITS, AND SECURING THEM AS

FAMILY COMFORTS:

AND FURTHEH,

OF ECONOMICAL PRINCIPLES IN BUILDING
FARMERS' HABITATIONS, ijfc.

BY AN AMERICAN FARMER.

/

NOTES, &c.

A FARMEa is not made by books ; but books
may assist a farmer, in giving him information of A
successful practices by other farmers in other
countries or places, which he cannot but by books
know, limited in his inquiries to the little occur-
rences of his neighbours. Books will entertain a
farmer with conversations on the practices of other
farmers, and will inform him how far such prac-
tices have proved successful and advantageous, or
how far they failed— and -why they failed. One
man may profit of the failure or mistake of ano-
ther, and often does — The design has been good
and promising, and the cause of the failure may
thereafter be avoided, and the design be rendered
successful.

Mr. Forsyth's treatise on the culture and ma-
nagement of trees, fruits, and gardening, ought

( 126 )

to be well attended to by the farmers of America^
as it contains accounts of important discoveries,
interesting to country families, and is founded on
very numerous and extensive instances of suc-
cessful practice.

For disclosing the fruits of his experience, Mr.
Forsyth received from his government Q^id^Q
sterling money. The world also receives the
• benefit of his communications, especially in mak-
ing and applying his composition ; and with it
much other useful kno'.vledge and instruction re-
specting trees, fruits and gardening, the price of
the j^4000 ; and the world is indebted also to Mr.
Forsyth for it.

It is in full proof, from the instances of his ex-
perience, and the efficacy of his applications and
management, that all fruit-bearing trees and vines
are greatly improved in their properties of giving
much more and far better fruit than in common
practice is produced : the difference, on comparing
them, is astonishing !

Of all the discoveries made public by Mr. For-
syth, the heading-down^ training and pruning in

( 127 )

his very judicious methods, arc the most import-
ant and satisfactory, including the application of
his composition^ luashes^ and powder ! Upon these
communications Mr. Ersytk has a great deal to
value himself, Look to the neighbouring anhead-
ed, unpruned^ or injudiciously trained fi'uit-trecs
and orchards — how inferior, scrubby and mean,
the trees and the fruit !

Heading-down, training and pruning are prac-
tised by many people in their own son^e-how way ;
which together may be denominated the common
method : but how inferior, and how void of proofs
of its having any extraordinary good effect ! Yet
it may be of some advantage, generally, more
than if no attempt was made to improve the trees
and fruit, by the few country people who shew
some endeavour to improve. So by chance the
editor succeeded in heading-down and trimming
a number of peach-trees, without having then
beared the expression oi heading-down. He had
been told it wai> advantageous to trim and thin
young* trees when planted out. I'hese trees grew
and produced fruit to admiration. But what is
all the rn?uiom pruning in ^merica^ compared uith
Mr. Forsyth*s now well-known method, so supe-
rior to all ever before practised ?

( 128 )

In general, X\\q American air and climate appear
well adapted for yielding the best of fruits^ as well
orchard as garden kinds. Strawberries^ currants
and raspberries are very sure and perfect crops.
Gooseberries are not such certain or perfect pro-
ductions ; unless it may be in the cooler, more
northern parts : but yet they answer culinary pur-
poses, and bottle well. This is with scarcely any
attention to their cultivation.

Cherries in America would abound and be in
great variety, very perfect, if some attention to
them was observed : but as it is with so little done
for them, they are ;i common, and rather a mean
fruit. The sorts preferred in country places seem
to be the thick, tough, indegestible sorts, which
are now and then the cause of sudden death in
people who make too free in eating them.

Cherries are chiefly applied to culinary purposes y
and for improving brandy into what is called
cherry brandy ; which is a considerable article,
much noticed in lianiburgb, in Europe. It is im-
ported from thence into some places in America.

Apricots come when there is a scarcity of other
ripe fruits; which makes them morp desireable

( 129 )

than otherwise they would be. In the green
state, they make an agreeable tart. In ground
dug or stirred about the trees, as in gardens, they
are apt to drop their fruit without ripening it.

Peaches arc in some variety, and ripen to great
perfection in the middle and southern states ; as
with but a little attention they would in the more
northern states of America. It is a fruit that is so
natural to the country of these states, that they
are applied 2Lsfoodto hogs, also in making brandy,
and for culinary purposes. They are in succession,
one sort coming after another, from ^uly to No-
vember. In some of the states, kilns are erected
for drying and curing apples, pears, peaches, and
other fruits in great quantities ; where pics are
made into mountains of crust, thick, essential, and
cheap ; and given to hirelings, as an agreeable/oo^
for all labouring people in the country, and which
needs but little or no sugar. The dried fruit is
packed in casks for family use ; and is sometimes
exported as merchandize. They are generally di-
vided into clear- stone 2.T\<\ clingstone peaches . The
clingstone soits are, in France, called pavies. In
a list of thirty-nine choice sorts of peaches, given
by Mr. Forsyth, only six are received by the

s

( 130 )

French as pavies or cling-stones ; and, it seems, in
France and England the clear-stone sort is prefer-
red at their tables.

But of all peaches, perhaps of all fruits, there is
none equal in flavor to the American Heath Peachy
a cling-stone. It is large, weighingnear a pound
in common: with but a moderate attention, the
editor believes, they would very generally weigh
a full pound. It is backward in ripening north-
ward of the Susquehanna ; and is one of the last
sort that ripens ; many weigh a full pound. —
Peachley's form of a vinery M'ould perfect the ri-
pening, and secure the fruit from thieves.

Within the states of America, clear-stone
peaches are preferred for food to hogs, and for
making brandy ; perhaps also to be eaten in coun-
try families, with milk ; but the cling-stone sorts
are preferred wJien of a good sort, well ripened,
to be eaten as fruit undressed.

It is a common fault, after having planted out
2iX\ orchard of peach-trees, to leave the trees to
shift for themselves and travel down with old
time, with scarcely any culture or attention ; and

( 131 )

the trees are taken from the nursery, where they
had become full grown, crowded anci stunted, so a;s
to be now unfit for giving good fruit when trans-
planted : and they are left to themselves, ^v itliout
any training or pruning ; and heading-down is
scarcely thought of, if known u in consequence, the
fruit they yield is mean, and the orchard in the end
is given up.

Nectarines scarcely ever ripen in the parts of
America where the editor has been. An insect
punctures the green fruit, and gum flows from it,
till the fruit drops without ripening.

Every x\merican farm has some sort of an apple
orchard. The fruit is of various sorts of apples,
and formerly gave much cider ; and store apples
abounded. Now, the trees and entire orchards be-
come daily more mean, and there is a great scarcity
of cider ; but few keeping-apples^ and those knotty,
dry and insipid. There is not the attention to
orchards that has been. West- India spirit and
French brandy abound in the shopi ; and we nxtear
out the strength of our lands in scujfling for corn, of
all sorts, to be sold to the shopkeepers, who furnish
us very readily with exotic spirit and brandy. Tlio

( 132 )

orchard is no longer manured: instead of it, various
corns — oats, barley, rye, and even Indian corn and
wheat are sown and reaped in the orchard^ on ground
not half dressed or cultivated. Moreover, the
orchards are now left open to powerful storms, to
which they are exposed from the general clearing
of the country, and particularly from clearing away
the neiahbourino; woods that had sheltered the
orchards. Further, pruning and training fruit-trees
are less understood and less attempted than former-
ly.— Mighty rum, and mighty brandy, divert better
attentions.

Pears in America are only from some one or two
trees in the farmer's apple orchard or garden ; mere-
ly for the fruit eaten, or for preserves or present cu-
linary purposes. Perry is scarcely known.

A few quinces, for preserves, are in a corner of
the American apple-orchard or garden. The edi-
tor had a row of dwarf pear-trees grafted on quince
stocks. They M^ere chiefly the small round sugar
pear: the fruit abundant and good. The trees
about four or five feet high.

( 133 )

The Fine is quite natural to America. This,
, with the plum tribe, the editor propagated in one of
the middle states. There howeA^er is very little at-
tention observed towards the plum ; though they
generally thrive well. Damisons are preserved for
making tarts.

Little attention is had to Nuts. The ivalnut of
"Europe, and the Spanish chesimt, would be worth
culdvatmg, as well for the timber as the nuts. Al-
though the chesnut is bad 2isfucl^ yet sta'ues of ches-
nut, for \vine casks, are equal, if not superior to oak.
In Italy it is much used for wire casks. Tiic chesnut
is also excellent house timber in beams, &:c. The
liquor of pickled Avalnuts is greatly used in sauces.

Formerly, the early settled plantations of the more
wealthy emigrants from England., abounded in large
spreading ivahnit-trees., of the European kind. In
some places were entire rows of them. At this
time, scarcely any such rows of walnut-trees, indeed
even of solitary straggling bearing trees are to be
seen, in the states where they had abounded. There
is a fashion in these as in other matters. The early
wealthy planters from England introduced walnut-
trees about their houses — their descendants have

( 134 )

given them up. Cubinet-niakers have rooted and
sawed up all the noble blocks of curled veiny re-
mains of noble walnut-trees — and the trees are not
renewed. It is no longer a tree noticed. In a word,
very generally yrwf/ is shamefully neglected by the
American fanners. They pla?it — and they neglect!
Yet we sow wheat — it buys us rum, brandy and
spirits, at the expence of an entire impoverishment
of our lands.

OF HABITATIONS IN THE COUNTRY.

IT is proper that they be adapted to the emplo}--
mentsand manner of living, suitable to the farmer's
circumstances, and what is genuine country life. It
is adviseable not to copy closely, for coimtry lifcy
from the fashions, taste, or excesses of city life :
there must be a discreet difference preserved.

Whilst it is a fashion, convenient in cities, to
finish their rooms with stampt or coloured paper, in
the country this practice is less convenient or suita-
ble. Workmen in the country are every where to
be found, who can whitewash in the wholesome,
neat, old way, every year, or fis may be the occa-

( 135 )

sion ; when, to paper the country rooms as often as
may be requisite, though scldomer than w/jite-ivasb-
irigj it is difficult to procure ivorbne?i, if not also
sometimes materials. This is one of the many in-
conveniences attending the introduction of city ha-
bits and fashions into rural life ; where the neat and
convenient country usage of frequently ivbite-wasb-
ing and renewing the rooms and chambers is experi-
enced, and has been always approved for its gi*eat
mhantages and admired neatness and ivholeso7neness.

Giving up the well adapted usage of %v bite -iv ash-
ing country mansions, is followed by many disad-
vantageous changes in country economy, house-
keeping, practices and employments ; especially by
a too close attention to and observance of city plea-
sures.

Some particulars may be introduced into the
country from city usages, which will be advantage-
ous ; but the danger is great of their being attended
or followed with depravities or inconveniences.
There are not many that prove advantageous ; and it
is adviseable that plain, yet cheerful country life do
not give way too easily to city trifiing, or things
adapted only to city life, if adviseable in any condi-

( 136 )

tioii. In the good old courses, neatness, cleanliness,
and modest becoming character and habits. i<ave
heretofore been admired and emulated by tiit in! ha-
bitants of cities ; on the other hand, country people
too closely and too largely followed the city taste ;
which ushered them into city extravaguiices and
follies.

Amonf^ other improprieties, there is a great, ab-
surd and disadvantageous introduction, in country
houses, qS. plank floors on joists, and a giving up the
more natural, "voholesome, cheap, solid and lasting
earthen and brick floors, for the city clioice o^ wooden
floors over an unwholesome, close, . stag-nant air.

In the annexed plate is designed a country habita-
tion, with its fu'st or basement story on an earth;jn
or brick floor, raised only six or eight inches, \\ ith
earth, on the common level of the ground. Farmers
in Europe, ^vorth scores of thousands of pounds in
money, have houses, ivhere they reside on their
farms, ^o built ^j\d so floored, because of its being
suflicient, proper, v/holesome and convenient ; and
they find great advantage from their two kitchens,
one of them, clean as a parlour, is every tiling to
the STOod house- uife and her familv. But here in

( 137 )

jimerieay how common has it become for our /ar-
mers to imitate city modes and practices, however
unsuitable to the peculiar state of country affairs.
The proud, perhaps really poor city resident ^ how-
ever he bustles in the banks of paper-means of
gamblings builds fine houses, indeed house upon
house, called stories ; for which he has the pretence.
of a 'iuant of ground in towns ; and the American
dashing imitative farmer builds in like shewy man-
ner, although he is not stinted in ground to build
on ; he must have his Right of steps to pass to and
from his house, by one or other of his family, a hun-
dred times in a day — then another fiight she^vs the
stranger, visiting, rooms empty ^ if not unfinished,
over rooms that ought to be under domestic employ-
ments.
>
The farmer's house (having only one floor or
story) has no cellar under it. The floor of it is
hrick. For vijiitors, there are the two little front
parlours ; of which, one may occasionally have a
bed, or very full matrass. A middle room, 12 by
12, is the lohby^ and for the stair-case. The Xwo
back rooms, 18 by 18, 2irQ, family rooms. Up stairs
iiTcf've bed-rooms and a landings 12 by 12. A ccL

r

( 138 )

lar is under the traveller's detached lodging ; which
is a house, 16 by 16, near or adjoining the mansion.

The farmer's house of city stories on stories,
however she\\T or not, outside, has less area^ and
less of cowvenience, though much more ijjall, than
the humble house of one floor or story. Its two
•rooms, 20 by 20, and a passage 20 by 10, are all
that are in the first story, below. Above, in the
second story, are rooms too inconvenient to be of
much use : they are two bed chambers and a landing
of the stairs : in the roof arc four bed-chambers ^ 14
by 12 1-2, and a landing.

The editor has been well entertained in a house
which had but one floor (no upstairs), divided into
five rooms, 18 feet square ; the middle of them was
the summer room and the lobby ; another was a \^in-
ter and dining room, " parlour and all" ; the three
others were bed<- chambers, having fire-places, and
very completely furnished. The two first occupiers
of it \^ere great tobacco planters and merchants,
owning shipping : two others were mere planters.
It was a house of great entertainment — and yet it
had but the one floor — not a room upstairs — no up-
stairs— and but one fifth of its area was cellar. A
fched room had been added for a nwrsery.

( 139 )

In comparing' the walls of the farmer's two above
houses, those of the modern, or with two stories,
are more than twice, or twice twenty-seven times
more in quantity and expence than the single story
house ; and moreover, the single story house has
more oi employed rooms and con'veniences than the
fi\rmer*a modern country house of two stories !

OF GARDENS IN AMERICA.

IS it presumption to say, that the bouses on a
farm, entitled to immediate attention, and that
next to the mansion ought to be built, are what
will shelter the farmer's beasts of the place ? and
that the farm-yard is of more consideration than
the garden ; though this is of great value to ev«ry
family, especially to the farmer'' s.

Country gardens, in America, are usually close
to themansion ; and the farm-yard, when the farmer
has any, is a considerable distance from the man-
sion ; perhaps partially to be seen from it. It may
even be said, that the garden is but of a secondary
consideration to the farm-yard, and ought to give
way to it. Then, as it is elsewhere said, it is ad-

I

( 140 )

vantageous to have Xht. farm-yard, and all the work
and employment in it, within view from the man-
sion, as a check on the idleness and miscondirct of
labourers and herdsmen. The garden may be in the
front, or on one of the sides of the dwelling house
or of the farm-yard, as conveniently placed as cir-
cumstances will allow, not to be, especially, too
near.

A garden laid out in long beds, admits of being
advantageously ploughed, \\\\\\ a light plough drawn
by a siiigle horse, ass or mule. Mr. Parkinson, an
English faimer of judgment and experience, lately
in Ann'rica^ in conversations, gave satisfactory ac-
counts of the exccllence«of cultivating gardens with
light singlL-horse ploughs ; and he approved of an
ass, as being s'eady, sober and small, with which
he ploughed his garden crops. If the garden is
ploughed througli its whole length, parallel with the
middle great walk, it can, after being \a ell dressed,
have cross paths trod out, or otherwise as conveni-
ency demands.

Besides cultivating the garden sort of white
peas in long garden beds as above, the editor
is beholding, he thinks, to Mr. Parkinson for the

( 141 )

thought of tending those peas In ficld-hushamlry ;
first dressing and preparing the field in fine condi-
tion, then so^ving broad-cast ; when the pea vines
soon \\ ill cover the gi'ound and smother many weeds.
If in this case there should be but a partial crop of
peas, though a full crop may be expected, yet the
product in the straw, or haulm and grain, together
would be very valuable to the farmer v ho shall know
how to spend such acquisitions amongst cattle and
sheep.

A country garden divides well, in the objects of
its productions, into articles to be prepared in cook-
ery yor the table ^ mXo pot-herbs and medicinal herbs.
These may be in separate pieces of ground. Tae
pot-herbs^ parsly, tliime, &c. are frequently wanted
in haste ; they may be nearest to the kitchen, &c.
and let them abound. In saving seeds, lay out for ten
times as much as it is thought will be wanted : many
accidents, from storms, insects, seasons, &:c. hap-
pen. Whatever may be above the wants of the
garden, it will be a pleasure to supply neighbours
with ; and for ever there is a certainty of a sufficiency
at home. Till the editor pursued this principle of
economy respecting seeds ixwdfruitSj he seldom had

( 142 )

enough of either — and such are sore wants. In-
deed, respecting fruits he Avoukl not be limited in
quantity. Wants are due to careless, random, half-
spiritcd attentions, or where there is no care at all.

The garden fruit-trees (dis-tinct from orchard or
straj^gling trees) may range along the interior or
middle walks, and generally at some distance from
the garden fence. The quantity designed to be
many times more than the family ma}' be supposed
to want. Divide the placing fruit-trees distinctly
as out-fruit, for servants and others close at home,
and even. Some ai'ticles, precious family comforts,
it is recommended to securely inclose in a 'c'lnery or
the like cheap building, under lock and key ; \^ hich
will scarcely require any expence of fuel. Here
grapes may run up the rafters in serpentine order,
whilst diva rf trees of iht beath peach, he. and also
fgSy may be in the beds. Of fgs, obser\'e Mr.
Forsyth's excellent instructions in the pruning and
cultivating them : no where arc any equal to them,
in print.

If a full-grown pr a:h-lree, in America, will ripen
400pea:hc^, two such will give 800 f^Riily com-

( 143 )

forts* Is it not worth the expence to secure such
perlect fruit, if it were only for the sick of a family?
In the season of peaches and grapes ripening, inter-
mittents arrive ; and how excellent, says the good
and knowing Tissot, is sou?id ripe fruit to the sick ;
as indeed those who have had them in their sickness
cannot but feelinrly remember and vouch.

There can be little occasion for sheltering the
heath peach from autumnal cold any where south of
the Susquehanna. • Yet the^^f^-, a fine wholesome
fruit, though not an American favourite, is highly

* A gentleman in England^ lately, grew within
frames^ 14 feet long and 12 feet broad, the frames
having three slides of glass, five peach-trees. At eight
years old they ripened 261, 201, 220, 151, 152 peaches,
in all 985. In t/ii?imng, there had been taken off 2020,
which, added to the ripened 9S5, amount together to
3005. Medium, 600 a tree, failures included ; from
which, off one third, would give to American peach-
trees 400 a tree, in ripened fruit in the field. Then
one tree in the back corners of two pcachcries-, would
give of the noble heath peach 1600; besides graphs
along the rafters. A vinery in England is usually 40
or 50 feet long, 9 feet wide, 3 feet high in front, 12 to
14 back : but the width in America may be 12 feet, the
height in front 3 or 4 feet, and back, on the north
wdl, 12 or 13 feet.

( 144 )

esteemed in countries where it ripens, and is every
v/here deemed ivholesome and delicious when eaten
ripe from the tree. The editor knows that at first
his neighbours in America who disliked their flavor,
soon. VI' ere fond of them, and tiiey are in truth a
wholes Diue and a valuable fruit, as in his Maryland
garden was often attested from experience.

The shelters, in nature of vineries, may be made
good use of in America, for forwarding (not forcing
them out of season) cucumbers^ melons^ Lima beans,
peppers, &c. — sprouting the seeds in the vinery,
and even letting the plants grow a while ; then move
and plant them out in the garden beds or hills. First
in the vinery, grow the seeds in little unglazed
two-cent pots, or in paper, or ^villow fuoigs, or straw y
make- shift temporary Uttle baskets ; which are to
be removed, pot and earth, and seeds or plants,
without breaking their earth much, and all buried
where to remain. Early radishes and sallads may
also be here promoted.

The farmer cannot find it worth while to force
fruits and plants out of season by the use of expen-
siy tjires and attentions ; but to promote their time-
ly ripeiiing, and securing choice fruits under lock

( 145 )

and key by affluent farmers would be profitable,
and of great comfort to sick people^ for whom they
may have some thought.

Green-houses and hot-houses the husbandman
had better avoid, as being expensive ; and are too
far used in preternaturally ripeni?ig plants and
fruits : but to his consideration is referred the
eheap vinery or inclosure, for the purpose of se-
curing some choice grapes andyf^/, and a little ri-
pening some rather backward grapes, and perfect-
ing the fig-trees for next year's bearing — as also
may. be ripened tender peaches, plums, and other
subjects of family comfort, under lock and key,
with very little or nofire ; but for some purposes
with a portion of glass in sliding frames. Of
which, see the plate.

The editor may have been too reserved in not
speaking of some advantageous occurrences re-
specting his own gardening and management of
fruit : but he will venture to relate an instance or
two.

In some gardens in America, greengages scarce-
ly yielded any fruit, or but badly : it was the case

u

( 146 )

of the gages in the editor's garden, till by grafting
five green gages on five damison stocks, and at
the same time, of the same grafts, one was graft-
ed in the stock of a Chickasaw plum ^ growing near
the damison stocks : in four or five years of the
grafted trees bearing, the five damison grafted
gages scarcely yielded a tenth of the fruit which
the one Chickasaw plum grafted tree gave. In-
deed, it was wonderful and curious to observe
how like ropes of onions the gages grew along the
twigs and small limbs of the Chickasaw grafted
tree ; and another Chickasaw plum-stock, fifty
yards from the other, was grafted with one of the
same green gage cuttings as before, the year after
the others were grafted, and bore fruit equally
surprizingly as the former. It seems, then, that
Chickasaw plu7n-stocks are excellent for grafting
green gages on them. The Chickasaw plum is
by some called mountain cherry. It is in nothing a
cherry, but is red, and of the size of a cherry \
and in many particulars is like the common wild
plum of the sea-coast.

In many parts of the country almond-trees gave
no fruit. The tree, though hardy, was planted
in the warmest parts of gardens ; where in spring

( 147 )

the blossom was the first out, of all trees; and then
the fruit was destroyed by subsequent frosts. The
editor chose the coldest, most airy, exposed and
clayey part of his garden, where he planted al-
monds. The trees bore the fruit to perfection in
three years after planting the nuts — the large soft-
shelled almond.

His strawberry vines were dressed every sum-
mer^ after the fruit was gone ; the runners shorten-
ed^ the ground stirred and cleaned from weeds, and
a moderate portion of mild cow-dung added, best
from the compost; and every third year t/ie plmits
renewed into fresh beds, the old ones left to give
fruit as long as they proved worth attention. The
improvement of the strawberries was great, in
quantity and quality of the fruit. Respecting
raspberries and the other garden fruits, consult
and attend to Mr. Forsyth* s treatment of them —
how different they are in size, Sec. when managed
according to his book, the purport whereof is con-
tained in the above Epftomc ; and the method of
culture was partly experienced by the editor.

The editor but little regarded the breaking down
his peach-trees^ or their destruction by WQrnis — for

( 148 )

he aimed not at " enough," but very many times
more than enough ; whilst persons aiming at their
enough^ for ever wanted — as often as storms,
worms, insects, or other accidents happened to a
tree. When two or three of the editor's trees
were blown down, or the fruit of so many was de-
stroyed, still there was of fruit more than
enough ; and in every autumn he planted peach
stones, regula; ly as peas are in the spring by other
people. They were in some numbers, partly in
borders where they might remain — others were
transplanted, some even after shewing tlicir fruit.
Many were grubbed up. He preferred Baker's
clear-stone July peaches, the Neiuingtons, and a
few others ; especially the latest and best, the
large heath peach, ripe from October to Novem-
ber.— He was for ever planting peach stones and
found not grubs, storms, <^c. affecting them, to
his detriment.

OF PLATE XIV. yc.

IN the plate zre plans and elevations of two me-
thods of building fa^?7Jers' clwelli?ig- houses^ drawn
on the same scale, 30 feet in an inch.

( 149 )

Of the two, the modern house has 4200 feet of
tuall: the o/<f/ ;;/o<^<? complcats a house more cori-
venient and oi tnore room^ with but 1850 feet of
luall ; less than half the quantity of wall!

A small out-house of one room would be, for
cither house, very convenient for strangers to
lodge in : and to have under it a cellar sufficient
for a farmer's family. In the loft over the bed-
roo77i of this out house may be straw matrasses for
travelling poor people or servants to lodge on: —
What an accumulation of advantages arc here,
cheaply concentrated ! Strangers cannot be al-
ways refused lodging; and it is not always with
perfect safety that they are taken into the family
house to lodge.

It may be best that there is no direct commu-
nication open between the mansion and the small
lodging-house. On the same side of the mansion,
may be other convenient houses: milk-house^ Scz.
On the opposite side of the dwelling may be a
passage to the out kitchen with closets y poultry yard
and shelter^ Sec. Over the passage and closets
and out-kitchen may be lodgings for the family
servants^ to go up to by a ladaer or stairs from

( 150 )

the passage. It is proper and necessary, especial-
ly in country houses, that accommodations, mostly
or all together, be on the ground-floor » A fre-
quent use of the rooms upstairs will naturally be
avoided, as they arc extremely inconvenient, but
for bed-rooms. In towns a scarcity of ground
obliges, a sore necessity, the building up house
tipni ho lis e^ story upon story.

A clean small yard or two of close turf is highly
useful to the country house-wife. The garden is
more in sight and more likely to be attended to
when in front of the dwelling, but at a proper dis-
tance : and the road to the house is better to be
somewhat round-about on one side of the garden :
than to liave it a directly straight, dead view to
the eye at the house.

The small rooms in the old plan may be par.
lours ; occasionally with a bed or matrass in one,
easily removed, in the country way. The lobby
has its uses, besides admitting the stair-case.

The fiTzt floors are of. brick or cement in the old-
mode, upon the ground, raised six or eight inches
with earth. The ly^// ought to be let three feet
deep in the ground, against severe frosts.

( 151 )

Let nothing induce the having a cock-loft in ei-
ther of the houses. They are dangerous recepti-
cles of combustibles^ and are often set fire to by
carelessness. They ought to be so close that
scarcely a cat can enter them. It will suffice
that, after narrowing the area of the i^ppermcst
floor in the old method^ because of the interference
of the roof, there will remain an area of 36 feet by
24, to divide into six ?~ooms^ twelve feet squjaeo
The garret floor, in the 71610 method^ v. ill divide
into four rooms of 14 by 12 1-4 f.et, of no very
great demand in a country house, elevated as it
would be.

Wind can make but little impression on the/o7/'-
built house ; but what a powerful lever the hi^ih
house would prove to be in storms I In sweeping
the chimnies and extinguishing fires, the prefer-
ence is in favor of the low house. See mere of
mansions, p. 134.

The vinery may be only one, as is common,
though some have two to advantage. The size
for the above purposes in America may be 40 feet
long, 12 broad, 12 or 13 high at the back wall, 3
or 4 at the front or south wall. The rafters

( 152 )

have sliding sashes, set with glass. This section is
drawn by a scale of seven feet per inch.

Such a house would ripen and secure heath
peaches in cold districts : the trees whereof might
be dwarfs. Fig-trees would perfect their fruity
and harden their late grown ruood. Also Lima
beans ^ cucumbers^ 7nelor/s, peppers. Sec. may here
be aided in perfccti7ig their ripenmg ; but not be
forced pretcr naturally.

In England, the flue is in the hack wall ; which
can give plants only oiic side of its heat, very slow-
ly and duly moderate ; when the flue in the middle
of the floor ^ as here, gives three sides^ or three
fourths of its heat. On the top of this stove may
be a bed of good rich earth, and small seeds sown
in it ; or if seeds be sown in small pots ^ they might
be early sprouted^ and when frost is gone the pots
and plants in them be disposed of in the garden ;
as Lima beans ^ peppers^ Sec. Some seeds need
only be sprouted in the vinery, and then sown at
large.

The gable-end of a viner)^, or rather a section
of it, is given in pi. XIV. in which is seen a view

( 153 )

of the width of the beds, paths, flue, Sec. It is
drawn on a scale of se'-oen feet to an inch. Further,

1. Beds raised a foot or so : width shewn, three
and a half feet.

2. Width of the paths, eighteen inches.

3. The flue, nearly long as the vinery ; only leav-
ing room to pass by the fire-place, from path to path.

4. Lower division of the glass frames.

5. Upper division of the same.

6. Covered with boards or shingles.

7. North wall of the garden and vinery.

jj^ 8. Grape vines, planted outside ; and enter the

vinery about two feet up the front or south wall.
This wall m^y be chiefly glazed.

The contents of this XI Vth plate are respectful-
ly submitted to the consideration (d'i\h^ farmers of
America. They will determine ^vhich of the two

V

( 154 )

mansions^ or the principles on which they are de-
signed, is to be preferred by Ytd\ farmers ; and will
consider of American gardens and fruits. Some
general remarks are dispersed on these subjects ;
and the American farmer entreated to consult Mr.
Forsyth's treatise, very frequently : it containing
the most valuable information that ever was made
public oji trees and fruits!

The editor also recommends to landholders who
may be desirous of propagating plantations of tim-
ber trees^ that they consult the third volume of An-
dcrsorJs essays on agriculture. He especially is
important in w-hat he writes of the larch-tree^ of
Europe ; a tree so superior, in its uses, to all other
trees, that the universal preference given to it by
ancient nations has occasioned the extirpation of it
in all accessible places of countries where it former-
ly w as to be had ; and where at this time little is to
be found but w hat gro\\'s in inaccessible, mountain-
ous places ; saving in Russia, a new country, where
they still obtain of it for building ships of war at
Archangel. American larch difters from this pi^ius
lurix lin.

( 155 )

Of late, millions of larch plants are annually rais-
ed, for sale, \n Scotland ; and many trees are in gen-
tlemens' grounds, grown to a full size, having been
raised before this moment of the value of the wood
being largely known. Of saving seeds, sowing
them, and cultivating the trees, Mr. Anderson is
full, pleasing, instructive, and satisfactory !

OF THE USEFULNESS OF BIRDS,

DESTROYING INSECTS AND VERMIN COMMONLY INJU>
RIOUS TO THE HUSBANDMAN AND GARDENERS.

DR. BARTON'S fragments of the natural histo-
ry of Pennsylvania, points, with much justice and
ingenuity, to the conduct of various birds, although
of ill fame, from the early prejudices of youth,
against appearances, rather than any actual facts.

Insects and ^-ermin are food to the immense bird
tribe : to which these insects are in due proportion
to the essential wants of birds, as again numerous
minuter beings arc, with other aids of nature, to
those, &c. All nature depends on its own laws for
the support of its various subjects.

( 156 )

The attention of European ^vTiters to the common
well-known fact, observed especially in the rural
retreats of contemplative men, of animals preyiag
on animals for their food, is very commendable.
And often it has been observed, that whilst the
woodpecker, for an instance, is busily engaged on
the growing corn in digging with his beak and
probing with his barbed tongue for the worm or in-
sect which is equally active in destroying that corn
for his own food, the hasty, inconsiderate spectator
is outraged with the apprehension that the bird is a
destroyer of the corn, when he actually is in the
state of defending the corn for himself and the hus-
bandman against the depredations of the insects.

The black bird and the crow are the t^vo most
desperate destroyers of the maiz corn ; on planting
the grains in the crossings, they follow and take up
the corn v/hen it is even growing through the
ground : but when the maiz is ripe, then it is that
the crows seem to form their batallions, and pounce
upon a whole field at a time, eating and destro}'ing
together entire fields ; as in one year they served a
field of the editor : and so in armies they fly over the
the country, till they choose a field to attack, and
seemingly with a mighty command, one and all at

( 157 )

once scream aloud, and dash upon the selected
corn-field, missing but few ears that are left un-
fathered by the farmers.

Pidgeons, as well wild as domestic, are charged
with being great destroyers of grain. They do in-
deed eat much of the husbandman's seed corn, yet
not so as to materially injure crops. They feed
mostly on wild seeds of sour grasses, weeds, &c.
Bat the farmer himself is extremely indiscreet in
common, by suffering old breeds of tame pidgeons
extending their colonies too largely and overrun all
lasvs of economy.

Poultry also eat much of the farm corn ; but the
farmer eats both the poultry and the pidgeons, the
rabbits, &c. — all to his satisfaction and support.
Yet even the house-fly is not grudged his share of
the most exquisite pine-apple che-ese — nor the pu-
rest, most excellent Madeira wine.

" Busy, curious, thirsty fly,

" Drink with me, and drink as I ;

" Freely welcome to my cup,

" Could'st thou sip — and sip it up [ "

The grudgings, indeed, of certain seliish people,
would withhold food from animals that in tlieuiselves

( 158 )

gratify the luxury of the condcmner. Others, more
reasonable and thouglitful, kno\v, and are willing to
admit that all animal life preys for its subsist-
ance, and lawfully preys, on other beings and sub-
jects, according to the laws of nature : the applica-
tion whereof, as such, answers other v^ ise purposes.
The fish, the bird, the quadruped, all share in the
life of their own kind — Yet not so of man ; to
whom, and some other animals, they are unnatural
as food to their own species, and so are withheld
and forbidden.

The sweet, cheerful mocking birds are said to be
enemies to us in eatins; our cherries and small fruit.
Very little of these I am sure they consume. In
paying some attention to them, it has been remark-
ed that they are very ])artieularly fond of spiders : if
this be their principal food, together with other in-
sects and worms, the epicure may not grudge him
his food ; and even of the red-breast, so much more
numerous, he robs the fruiter in proportion to their
extensive numbers. They are indeed somewhat
vexatious in the partiality they shew for the garden
grape-vine, where they much abouad, perhaps as
much for the spilers, bugs and worms, if not
more than for the grapes. But poor things they

( 159 )

must live, and we must not grudge a share of our
labour for their support ; and from \\ hence we ac-
quire pleasing gaiety in tlie morning in the trees di-
rectly at our ^\ indow s ; and then let us give them
praise for their destruction of enemies, among Vv orms
and bugs, to our garden and field crops. Of ail
birds about a house, the most vexatious are the wa-
ter martin ; which had better be called the bee bird,
as it is for ever snapping up these industrious ani-
mals, full loaden as they are returning to their
hives. There is no such other enemy to bees.

But Dr. Barton has given so excellent an ac-
count of the habits and actions of bn^ds in his frag-
ments of the natural history of Pennsylvania, that a
preference is due to it, for our present purposes ;
and it is referred to as the most satisfactory respect-
ing our present enquiries, as we have it in a Eu-
ropean late publication as follows :

" It may in the first place be observed" says Dr.-
Barton, *' that insects appear to be the first food of
almost all the birds of our country. The more I
have enquired, the more I have been con\Incecl, that
almost all birds live, in some measure, upon in-
sects. Even tliose species \\ hicli consume consi-

( 160 )

dcrable quantities of seeds, berries and fruit, also
eonsume large quantities of insects.

" The greater number of our smaller birds of the
order of passeres, seem to demand our attention
and protection. Some of them feed pretty entn-ely
upon insects, and others upon mixed food — that is,
insects and seeds. Many contribute to our plea-
sure by the melody of their notes. I believe the in-
jury they do us is but small, compared to the good
they render us.

" The muscicapa acadica of Gmelin, is called in
Pennsylvania the lesser or wooJ-pew e. This iittle
bird builds in Avoods and in forests. After the
young have left the nests, the parents conduct them
to the gardens and habitations of men. Here the
brood dwells in trees near the houses, where they
are fed by the old birds with the common house-fly
and other insects. The"young ones are soon capa-
ble of obtaining their food in the same way. This
species of muscicapa visits us in the spring, and
commonly continues with us till late in September,
when it retires southerly to winter.

( 161 )

" The blue bird feeds principally, if not entirelyj^
upon insects, both such as are flying and such as
are reptile.

" Most of our species of wood-pecker, appear
very useful in destroying insects, particularly
those which injure forest and orchard trees" —
and such as infest and injure the corns whilst grow-
ing, especially the maiz or Indian corn. "It is
true, these birds are sometimes injurious to us, by
eating some fine fruits ; and therefore pains arc
taken to drive them from cherry-trees and Indian
corn. — But, withal, they devour great numbers of
injurious insects.

" As a devourer of pernicious insects, one of the
most useful birds is the house-wren. This lit-
tle bird seems peculiarly fond of the society of
man. From observing the usefulness of this bird
in destroying insects, it has long been a custom
in many parts of the country to fix a small box
at the end of a pole, about houses, for it to build
in. When the young are hatched, the parent
birds feed them with insects. It is a curious
fact, lliat a friend counted the number of times a
pair of wrens came from their box and returned uitk

X

( 162 )

insects. He found it was performed from 40 to 60
times in an hour ; and in a particular hour they car-
ried food 71 times. They Mere engaged in this
business the greater part of the da}'. Taking the me-
dium at 50 times iii an hour (in the whole 12 hours)
a slnf^le pair of these birds took from the cabbage,
saliail, l;t;aiis, peas, and other vegetables in the gar-
den, iiix hundred insects per day.*' This is sup-
1- w^ing the old birds carried but one insect at a time,
bfi': i.iie editor nas seen tiiem take and carry to the
nest two at a .nne, and even, lie believes, three. —
1 or preserving lobacco plants irom worms and in-
sect, at timcb, ana on particular occasions, a whole
plan iUtion of negroes, men, women and children,
aiid then again large fiocks of turkies go through
10, 20, to 40 acres of plants, plant by plant, and
take from them daily destructive worms and in-
sects, and render that service at a great expence,
• which the wrens, wood-peckers, and other ^\ild
bn-ds perform vit no expence, unless the unreasona-
ble husbandman would charge them heavily for
sometimes partaking of the fruits of their labour.
" Thus the esculent plants of a whole garden may
perha))s be preserved from tlie dej^redations of dif-
ferent species of insects by 10 or 15 pair of these
s'.nail l)irds; and morco\er, thcv are a verv a2:reeabie
conipaniontoman, for their notes are pleasing.

( 163 )

*' Perhaps our storks, cranes and herons are as
serviceable, if not more so to us, as the ibis
were in devouring the reptiles oi' Egypt. In Hol-
land at this time the storks go w ild, protected by the
government, from a sense of their usefulness in the
above respect.

" In Britain, the heron and other birds of the tribe
protect the country against an excessive increase of
fi-ogs, toads, and other reptiles. North-America
abounds with birds of this order.

" The vulture is useful in sweetening the air, by
devouring all carrion ; and in Virginia the turkey-
buzzard, vultur aura^ is one of the most useful birds
of this kind; and is there protected by a law."

EXPLA^NATIONS

01 THB

ENGRAVINGS,

( 167 )

EXPLANATION OF PLATE L

m.

Fig. 1. .
Represents an old apricot-tree, after the last
pruning in summer, in the fourth year after heading
down. The lower part of the trunk is represented as
covered with a rough bark, which must be pared off
when it happens to be cankery.

fl, a, a, a. The cicatrices of the four different
years' heading, which should be periormed at the time
of the winter or spring pruning.

3, by b. Forked shoots which are laid in, in sum-
mer, and cut off at b in the winter pruning, that the
leading shoots may be always left without forks.

As the small shoots c, c, c, from the stem, advance,
the larger forked shoots should be cut out, as at d^ d^ d^
to make room for them to be trained horizontally.

F'w. 2.

o

Is an old branch of an apricot trained up accord-
ing to the old method, leaving above three-fourths of
the wall naked. Such branches should be cut down as
near to the place where the tree was first budded as
possible, as at f, on purpose to fill the wall with fine
ncM' wood.

( 168 )

EXPLANATION OF PLATE IL

m

Fig, 1.
An old hollow Green Gage Plum-Tree the second
jrcar after heading down. This tree was very much
decayed, having only a few inches of sound bark ; naany
of the roots, being also rotten and decayed, were cut
off, and an incision made at a, which produced a fresh
r«ot.

b. The first heading, close to a bud.

r, c. The new wood and bark growing over the
hollow partf/, which is covered with the composition.

e, e, 8fc. Where the second year's heading wa»
performed.

y, f. Where the fore-right shoots are cut off dur-
ing the winter or spring pruning.

cf' S:-> <§■> ^^' The fruit buds for next year, as they
appear after the fore-right shoots arc cut off, as at^,/.

P/0-. 2.
A branch on a larger scalf , to shew the manner of
cutting those forp-right shoots which are full of fruit

( 169 )

buds. This should be done at /z, A, but not till the
fruit is set ; they afterwards forni into dugs as /, /.

Fig. 3.
An old branch pruned in the common way, cover-
ed over with canker, and producing only small weak
shoots, leaving the wall mostly naked.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE IIL

Fig. 1.
An old hollow peach-tree, after the last nailiag in
summer, which had been headed down at a, four years
ago. The hollow is covered over with the composition,
and now nearly filled up. The heading must always
be done as near to a bud as possible.

^, ^, ^c. Where the forked branches are to be
cut, when the small shoots c, c, £s?c. are far enough ad-
vanced, that these may be trained horizontally.

When a sKoot has single fruit-buds to the top, as
at d^ it must not be shortened, but laid in at full length;
or, if not wanted, it must be cut clean out. See the
4tG. edition, p. 53.

Fig. 2.
A branch on a larger scale.
V

( 170 )

e, c. Are double flower-buds, with wood-buds
between them : The shoots should always be tut at
such ; but never at a single flower-bud, as at^; ocher-
wise the shoot would die to the next wood-bud ; and, if
the pruning were done in a careless manner, would en-
danr_ r the whole shoot. Those above y^, are all wood-
buds. See 4to. edition, p. 32, 33, 34.

Fig. 3.
A branch of an old pearh-tree pruned in the com-
mon way, which should be cut at g^ und the young wood
will soon cover the wall.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE IV.

Fig. 1.
An old cherry-tree headed clown at c. Before this
its branches were covered with the gum and canker, as
Fig. 2.

The fore-right shoots should be tucked in, as di-
rected for pears ; and at the fall of the leaf, or in the
month of February, they should be cut at a : These
form the fruit-buds b. b, £s?c. all over the tree.

c, c, bfc. The cicatrices where the leading shoot
was headed indifferent seasons.

( 171 )

<-/, d. The composition applied where large limbs
were cut off.

Fig: 2.
A branch of this tree before it was headed down.

e, e, ^c. Branches injudiciously pruned in sum-
mer ; which brings on the death of the shoot, and af-
terwards ihe gum and canker on the tree.

y, fy £s?f. The gum and canker in the last stage,
which corrodes the whole tree if not carefully extir-
pated.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE V.

An old cherry-tree, restored from two or three
inches of live bark, taken from the wall, and planted
out as a dwarf standard : Now very fruitful.

«, a. The cicatrices where it was headed down]
the first and second time.

b. The hollow covered with the composition, and
now nearly filled up with sound wood.

( 172 )

EXPLANATION OF PLATE VL

/■/§•. 1.
An old cankery apple-tree headed down four years
ago, now bearing great plenty of fine fruit.

a. Where it was first headed down.

b and c. Two wounds covered with the composi
tion, and now nearly filled up with sound wood.

The part of the trunk below a shews the cankery
state of the bark ; w^hich rough cankery bark must al-
ways be pared off, otherwise it will infect the new,

F^-g. 2.
A branch shewing the method of keeping a regu-
lar succession of bearing wood.

d. A branch, which has done bearing, to be cut
at e, and which is succeeded by the branchy"; when
that also is tired of bearing, it is to be cut at^, and will
be succeeded by the branch /i ; and when that also is
worn out, it is to be cut off at /. By proceeding in this
manner, you will always be able to keep a regular suc-
cession of fine bearing wood.

( 173 )

EXPLANATION OF PLATE VIL

This plate represents an okl decayed pear-tree,
with four stems, which was headed down, all but the
branch 6*, and the young wood trained in the common
way, or fan-fashion.

A, A, A. Young wood producing the fine large
fruit B.

C. An old branch pruned in the common wav,
having large spurs standing out a foot or eightetn
inches, and producing the diminutive, kernelly, and ill-
flavoured fruit Z), not fit to be eaten.

The two pears B and D^ represented in the plate of
their natural size, grew on the tree at the same time.

a, a, a, £?*c. Wounds in the stems of the tree,
with the composition applied, as they appeared when
the edges of the bark began to grow over them.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE VIIL

Fig. 1.
An old decayed Beurre pear-tree headed down at
fy and restored from one inch and a half of live bark.

( 174 )
<i, a, a, ^c. The fruit-buds for the present year.
^, ^, b, ^c. Those forming for next year.

c, r, £s?c. The footstalks of the fruit of last year,
on which are forming buds for bearing in the second
year.

d^ d^ £s?c. The fore-right shoots as they appear
before they are cut off at c, in the autumn or spring
pruning.

d. The manner of tucking in the fore-right
branches.

y, y, Wc. Cicatrices of the different headings,
which cause the leading shoot to produce horizontal
shoots.

i

g^ g. Large wounds, having the composition ap-
plied, healing up.

Fig. 2.
An old branch of the same tree before it was head-
ed down, trained and pruned in the old way, with
spurs standing out a foot, or a foot and a half, trom the
wall; and the rough bark, infested with a destructive
insect, which is described and a method of cure given.
See Plate IX. Fig. 3.

( 175 )

EXPLANATION OF PLATE IX.

Fig. 1.
An old Bcrgamot Pear headed down at the cica-
trix <2, taken irom the wall and planted out as a dwarf
standard.

6. A wound, covered with the romposit'or!,, where
a large upright shoot was cut off, to give the leading
shoot freedom to grow straight.

Ft-g. 2.
The different appearances of the insect so destruc-
tive to pear-trees.

This insect is inclosed in a case, and, when fixed
on the leaf on which it feeds, appears as represented at
fl, a, a, which is about its natural size.

b. The case magnified.

c. The case, with the Insect in motion, magnified

d. The Insect magnified,
e.. The Moth.

J'. The Chrysalis.

( 176 )

ff. The Chrysalis magnified.

Fig. 3.
The coccus which infests peach, nectarine, and

peai- trees.

a, a, a. The insect, the natural size, on a branch
©1 a pear-tree.

• b, h^ b. The same magnifictl.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE X.

a, a, «, ^c. The young bearing wood of a vine
trained in a serpentine manner, with the buds for the
present year appearing.. These shoots are generally
cut out in the winter pruning, as low as c, c, r, ^c. to
produce wood for next year.

The shoots b^ b^ ^c. produce fruit in the usual
manner, also young wood for the following year, which
must not be topped, but only have the side shoots pick-
ed o(F. Two or three of the strongest young shoots
from each of those b, by ^c, will be sufficient, and they
must he laid in at full length.

( 177 )

EXPLANATION OF PLATE XL

Fig, 1.
Grafting in the rind, shoulder-grafting, or
«rown-grafting.

a. The stock grafted.

b. The manner of raising the bark to receive the
€ion or graft.

£. The graft prepared for inserting.

Fig. 2.
Cleft-grafting, stock-grafting, or slit-grafting.

d. The stock grafted.

e. The stock prepared for receiving the ^raft.
y. The cion ready for inserting.

d, d, d. Different views of i,ncisions made for the
purpose of obtaining young wood.

e. A } oung shoot coming out at the lower part of
the incision.

( 178 )

Fig. 3.
Whip-grafting, or tongue-grafting,

0-. The stock jrrafted.

h. The stock prepai-ed.

/
/. The graft prepared for inserting.

Fig. 4.
Inoculating or b-udding.

^. The manner of making the incision intlie bark.

/. Trie bud inserted, and the bark hud over it.

m. A shoot shewing the manner of cutting off the
buds.

7t. A vessel Avith a little loam, covered with wet
moss, so *tick the lower end of the shoot in, to keep it
moist till used.

0. A bud taken off and rcadv for iuscrlinc

F/g. 5 and 6.
Inarching, or grafiiug by approach.

p. firaftir^g on a stock in a pot.

( 179 )

q. Grafting on a stock growing near the tree
from which it is to be grafted on.

r, s. I'he shoot and stock prepared.

?, t. Two branches inarched where the natural
ones had failed, now properly united wkh the body of
the tree ; the lower parts being cut oiF.

«, II. Tw'O branches lately inarched for the same
purpose, and when properly united with the stem, are
to be cut off at w, u^ ti, ii.

w, X. The manner of preparing the stock and
graft.

V. A natural shoot coming out where the branch
was inarched the preceding vear.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIL

This plate represents an old stunted oak, which
was headed down about six years ago. At that time
it war, full of wounds and blemishes, now nearly healed.

a. The place where the tree was headed, after-
wards covered with the composition.

( 180 )

^, i, b. Three young shoots produced fine head-
ing ; there were several others, which were cut down
as they advanced in growth ; the two remaining side
ones are also to be cut down and only the middle one
left, which will in time cover the wound a, and form a
proper tree.

c, c, c. Remains of the old wounds, covered with
the composition, and now almost healed up.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIIL

Fig. 1 y 2.

Two different views of a tool for cutting out the
dead and decayed parts of hollow trees. It has two
wooden handles which ma/ be of any convenient
length.

Fig. 3 h'' 4.
Two views of another tool, with one handle, for
cutting out dead wood. This is made narrower than
the former, and is to be used in places where Fig. 1 can-
not be admitted.

5. A triangular chisel, for cutting grooves or chan-
nels to carry off the water from the holloMS of the
trees.

( 181 )

6. A tool representing an adze on one side and a
Katchet on the other.

7. A large chisel.

8. A large gouge.

9. A small saw, with double teeth, thin on the
back, for cutting off small branches, S-:c.

10. A knife with a concave edge.

11. A tool inform of a sickle, without teeth. This
is to scrape stems and branches of trees on the side
next the wall.

12. A pruning-knife with a convex edge.

13. A tool in shape of a curry-comb for scraping
moss, Sec. off the stems and branches of trees: One of
the scrapers has teeth ; the other is plain. The biick
of this tool, and the edges of the scrapers, arc a little
concave.

6
lar2:e branches.

14. A larger double- toothed saw for cutting oF
: branches.

15. A small pruning-l<nife v.ith a convex edge.

( 18:2 )

1 6. A large chisel with a strong plate of iron screw-
ed on upon the face of it, like a double iron for a plane,
to prevent its running in too far where the tree is cross-
grained.

JV^. B. These tools have handles of different lengths,
to be used as occasion requires.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIV.

Fig. 1.
F-'iRTiERs' houses of residence are of various sizes
and forms, suitable to the degree and circumstances of
the occupier. — Fig 1 is the most hu.Vxble of farmers'
hiibitntions, on the smallest farms ; and is an excellent
ti :sign for a cottage. 1 he floor is best of brick or ce-
iv.v'!, or er.rth perfectly solid. 'l"he size IGby 12 feet.

<7, a. Dotted lines, fiirwing the width of area up-
stairs, 8 b}- 16: to form two roouiS of 8 feet square.

Fig. 2.
This is a comfortable house for a farmer's family
in coramon ; and very convenient, without ostentation.
— It admits of an entry by one or two steps — Its busi-
ness is all done on the one ground floor : tlie rooms
over head being solely ns bed-chambers and store-
rcoms of family goodi;. — It admits of enlargement on

( 183 )

the ground, as may be for future occasions — Its chim-
nies are easily swept — Its single story gives littic to
the p^'wer ot storms — A fire is easily conquered, beiug
more within reach than when it breaks out on two-story
houses, iijio this most common farmer's hibitii'iioa,
you enter a lobby 12 by 12 feet ; the stairs to bed-
chambers and store-rooms, over it. On each hand of
the lobby is a room also 12 by 12 feet, with a smull
collier chimnev. The two back rooms, which are 18
by IS feet, ZiXit family rooms oi employment : they look
back into the farm-yard. A door may be on the east
and west sides. Best that there be little or no cellar
under this hV.iitation. If any cellar, let it be under
one of the 12 feet rooms ; but still better to be under a

small out-house for a poor trjtveller's bed-roo-m.

N. B. The two dotted lines shew where the sides of
the chambers upstairs will extend to. When divided
off, there will, for chambers and stores or closets, be
six rooms of 12 feet square. — The Avhole of the ground
floor may be laid ao//^ with brick or cement ; and this
coloured or not at pleasure : but the solid floor is the
healthful fioor 1 ever and ever. Even the upper floor
would be well laid with stout sawed laths, and then
laid thick with a cement ; which would prote6l against
fire, d, d. Doors.

Tig. 3.
This is taken from a house lately built in the state
of Main by an English family ; having only a ground

( 184 )

story, the floors of brick and earth. The}' are built or
the principles of farm houses in ihe experienced old
coantries ; having never more than one story, with
brick or cement floors, solid, that no stagnant, un-
vholesome air be admitted under them ; except a very
small portion of cellar under the stairs, for containing
family small' beer, lard, &c. Bed-rooms, and closets
or store-rooms may be over head, in the garret or se-
cond floor, as in No. 2.

Fig. 4.
This and Fig. 3 were built nearly together by re-
lations by marriage, and there need not be sought a
more convenient and comfortable house than either of
them, suitable to farmers of property. Upstairs, as
No. 3.

Fig. 3. Enter a passage 10 by 25 feet to a. a store-
room : b. a closet : c. childrens' bed-room : d. bed-
room of master and mistress : e. closet : f. parlour,
15 by 22 feet : g. friends' bed-room, 15 by 19 : h. h. h.
closets : i. kitchen, with cellar and chamber stairs : k.
door into shed, 27 by 13, with fire-place and copper: a
pump and . sink ; door both ways : — Fig. 4. 1. entry
with closets for books, &c. on each side, 8 1-2 by 25 :
m. north parlour, a beau-room, 22 by 18 1-2 : n. bovs'
bed-chamber and closet, 7 by 8 feet: o. girls' bed-
chamber, 7 by 7 feet : p. master and mistress's room :
q. q. closets: r. parlour, 16 by 20: s. friends' bed-

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PI :<v:

( 185 )

room 16 by 20 : t. kitchen, with sink, and store-room
u. w, Whole front, 50 feet.

The areas are worth noticing:

Fig« 1, 192 feet. The least farmer'^ house : same
as a good cottage.

Fig. 2, 1080 feet. The farmer's habitation ; the
most common.

Fig. 3, 1520feet. A wealthy farmer's house.
Fig. 4, 2000 feet. Ditto.

It is a rural absurdity to entertain the idea of more
than one story to a farmer's habitation — or to any habi-
tation in the country, less than a proud palace.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE XV.

Fig. 5.
Plan of a tzvo-stonj house: — 50 feet long, 20 feet
wide ; passage, 10 by 20; two rooms, 20 feet square >
chimney in each room, at pleasure.

( 186 )

Fig. 6.
Elevation of the same two-story habitation of all
show and little use ; but, withal, very inconvenient, and

very costly.

Fig. 7.
Elevation of the farmer's one-story habitation^ of
which the plan is in pi. XIV, fig. 2. a size and form
suitable to farms the most common, and which are
cheap, strong, convenient, wholesome, and the best
adapted for the purposes of a farmer's family, and the
views and employments of country house-wifery.

Epitome, p. 142, -j Speaks of the uses of the Vi-

1

151, &c. of the size, Stc. of the Vi-
nery,

152, refers to PI. XIV.

If any more is wanted of Vineries, refer at large
to Speachley's book treating of them in England, 8vo.

ZXtnTKpy
l^.C.Btate College

INDEX.

XXPRICOTS, sorts, to plant and train, 3, 128.

ripen when there is little other fruit, 128 j
■when and how head down, 4, 5.
when very young, make tarts, 129.
bear best where the ground is hard, 129.

ALMONDS, sorts, training, 67.
cured in s;ind, 68.

dwarfs eaiily covered against spring frosts, 67.
in clay, cold soil, 146.

AMERICA, the climate favourable to fruits, 12S.
its garden and orchard fruits, 128, 133.
its country habitations, 134, 138, 148.
the gardens, 139, 148.

country habitations, old and modern compared, ! 48.
bird* inoffensive or injurious to crops, 155.

APPLES, to harvest and store, 90,92.

scarce in America from neglect, 131.

AUTUMN, an objection to prune then, 5.

BARBERRIES, sorts, how propagate and prune, 58, 59.
attract singing birds, their use, 53, 59.
BOOKS, on husbandry, advantageous to husbandmen, 125.

BUDDING, general account of it, 74.

time and signs of the buds taking, 81.

of cutting oft' the stocks, n 1 .
particular modes of budding, 107.
the various tools, 107.
times for budding, 108.

BIRDS, Sec. advantageous or disadvantageous to husbandry, I 55.

CATERPILLAR, a sort peculiar to gooseberries, 52, 53.
CANKER described, and cure, .95, 94.

INDEX.

CHESNUTS, sorts and propagation, 68 to 70.

plant out in autumn, head down in time, 70.

CHERRIES, see the advertisement, ante, find American^ 128.
ingredient in cherry brandy, 128.

COMPOSITION, always apply to parts cut, 5.

liquid, 94 — powder, 100, 106,
experience of it, and approved abroad, 114.
has effected vast improvements, 126.

COVERING FRUIT-TREES AGAINST FROST, 5, 6.

CURRANTS, the sorts, 5 3.

to continue in Jnne to November, 54.

jelly of black currants, 54.

black currants as used in Ireland, 54.

to propagate, 55, 56.

prune and head down, 56, 57.

dwarf cnrr:i, It-trees preferred, 58.

keep clear of suckers, 5 8.

CELIyARS in the country best under an out-house, 1 49.

CiDER scarce in America from neglect, 131.

CUCUMBERS assisted in a vinery, 144.

DISEASES OF FRUIT-TREES, 99, lOO.

DWARF FRUIT-TREES preferable to Espalier, 11.

in a vinery, 142.

ESPALIER, inferoir to dwarf trees, 11.

EXPERIMENTS, comparative, in pruning pears, 24, 25, 26.
in heading down, composition, powder,
Sec. 109, 113, 126.

ENGRAVINGS, the plates explained, 167.

FIGS, sorts, pruning and culture, 40.

the fruit and wo' d matured in a vinery, H'i.

covering the trees against frost, 43, 45.

milk oozing, how stopt, 44.

to train iiorizoiitally, 45.

their spurs, leave to grow, 45,

to shelter against winter, 45.

to forV)-ard their ripening early, 44.

FROST, late in England, 31.

INDEX.

FORSYTH, his merit, and treatise recomiTiencled, 125.

his composition, heading, and tiaining, superior I
and have effictcd astoniihing improve-
ments, 126.

FRUIT, when to begin thinning it, 11.
of America, 125.
dried in kilns, 129.
rule for having enough, 141, 142.

FRUIT-TREES, defects repaired, 99.

FARM- YARD, in full view from the house, 140.

GRAFTING, 74.

signs of the bucls having taken. 8 I,

time and manner, of the st>5ck in budding, 81.

GARDEN, the site to prefer, 82. Soil -^nd form, 83.

ploughinc,s and digi^ing before planiino, 84.

water convera.i.t— irrigating, ^c. 84.

walks and drains, 8 5, 86.

borders, walks, paths, H6,

pits for hot-beds, 86, 87.

plan of the garden, to be kept, 87.

•walls, foundation, height for kitchen "sriun, 87.

size, brick best in walls. 88.

in America, UO — divide and i'l?^;'-, I4l.

GOOSEBERRIES, sorts, and ho^v raised, 47, 48. 19, 51.

soil rich, and cU.nged olien, 4^,

shade, 49, 3l. Thinnin^, 5l.

cu: down and train, 49, .'•0. 52.

fruit on second year's W(.»d, 49.

modern imprfivcment', in watering, n. :
£0il, and thinnin,', 5 1.

early f rd late fn'it, wrt nd to, 5l, ^2.

garc'T.shea.'- iiijiiriou';, :;2.

a pcic-eberr) eaily catieiplllar, =2, 33
GUM, described and cured, 94, 95-
GRAPES, trained fcrpentine, 142.
GREEN GAGE, the best stock for it, HG.

HEADED LOWN trees, how superior in f uit, 24, 2r.
rhesnuts to he well roOvcd, 70.
particulars of pitfercnce, 11^, i20.

INDEX.

HIDE-BOUND QUINXES, to care, 47.

IIABITAriONS, in the country of America, 134, l4o.

of more than one story avoid, as being in-
convenient and dear, 136 to 138, 139.

of only one floor and no upstairs, of great
fame, 138.

HOT-HOUSES avoid in the country by husbandmen, 144, 145.

INSECTS, 9 6, 98, 5 3.

LIME and LIME-WATER against insects, 53.
LODGINGS for strangers, best out-house, 149.

MILDEW and BLIGHTS, the nature and remedy, 96.

MULBERRY, sorts, and how propa3;ated, 64, 65.
thinning- and training, 65.

restored and impioved by the composition, 66.
decayed, head down, the fruit improved, 66.

MELONS, Peppers, occ. made and secured in a vinery, 144«

NECTARINES, 17, 131.

NOTES ON AMERICAN GARDENING, Sec. 12«.
NUTS, but little cultivated in America, 133.
NUISANCES TO CROPS, l.-,6.

ORCHARDS, only for standard fruit-rtrees, 88.

the size, give dung every two or three years, 89.
pare and wash off canker, then lay on composi-
tion and powder, 89, 90, 106.
neglected in America, 131.

ORANGE-TREES, head down, 116.

OAKS, an important particular of the root, 120.

PEACHES, a selection, 12.

preparing and planting the stones, 14.

heading down the tree, 15.

the heath peach, most excellent, 130.

fed to hogs, ate with milk, make brandy, 129.

in succession from July to November, 129,

dried in kilns, fed, exported, 129.

TNDEX.

PEACHES, clingstones called pavies, 129.

peachery, a liouse to save them, 130, 142, 143.
cultivation neglected, 130.

plant yearly, as if peas; autumn. Then always
abound against storms, worms, 8cc. i48.

PEAS, sown broad-cast, 141.

straw, rich food, 141. '

PEARS, a selection, 17.

cau;ion in storing them, 21.

choice from the nursery, 22.

heading and pruning, 2 3.

experiments proving the great superiority in pears

from pruning, Sec. 23, 24.
storing and keeping, 90, 92.
few, and no perry in America, 132.
dwarfed on quince stocks, 13 J.

POWDER, Mr. Forsyth's discovery, SB, 94.
PLUMS, selection, 7.

cautiotis in planting, S, 9.

heading down, 9.

training, 9.

trench, when planted out, 11.

dwarfed, 1 1.

cover as apricots against frorst, 1 1.

PRUNING, always followed with the compositions, Sec.
autumnal not to be preferred, 62.

PLANTING, cautions of Plants, 89.

QUINCES, t!ie best, to plant cuttings, the distance, 46.
mulch the plants and often water, 46.
plant forward ones in autumn, 46.
some raised from grafts, 46.
prune, and old ones head down, 46.
apply the composition, 47',
hide-bound, to cure, 47.

plant them distant from apples and pears, 47.
in the American orchard or garden, 132.

RASPBERRIES, sorts, and how propagated, 60.
in America, 123, 147.
the ract; delicate in planting, 6!.

INDEX.

RA3P3ERIIIES, plant in moist weather, 61.

water frequently, having trenched, 61.

small planti tie tof^ether, others stake, 65.

autumnal pruning inferior, how to prune, 62.

remove planes every five years, 63. ^^

number of shoots to retain on removals, SW,
RUST, meaning honey-dew, mill-dew, blignt, 95, 96.

RtJQ.'', the tap-root, very important particulars of them, 120.

STANDARD FRUIT-TREES, the most suitable to Ame-
rica, 10.
STRAWBERRIES, in America, how treated, 128, 147.

SEEDS, rules for assuring enough, 141, 142.

TREES, transplant in their forn^er position, 10.
defects and injuries repuirsd, ^^9.

irriportance of tap-roots, and that they grow again, 120.
f nut- trees, defects repairea, 9i).

TRENCH GaOUND before trees are planted, 60.

TIMBER TREES treated of by Anderson, 154.

VINES, selected, 32.

how to choo'-e cuttings, 33.

train and prune, 33 — serpentine form, 34.

the composition used on every cut, 38.

if It bleeds, api^ly the powder, 38.

when and how watered 39.

enemies in insects and birds, 39.

leaves not to be stripped .)fi\ 39.

currants in America, 128.

very natural to America, 133.

VINERY, how built and used, i42, 15 1.

WALNUT-TREES, sorts, training, use of composition, Sec. 72.
pay a great rent, 73.
gathering, curing, kepping thc' fruit, 73.
fruit shrivelling, steep in milk for use, 73t
formerly abounded in America, 133.

WHITEWASHING best in the country, 134.
THE END.