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EPITOME .
OF

i

! MR. FORSYTH'’S TREATISE

ON THE
CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT

OF
FRUIT-TREES.

™ ALSO,
i TOTES ON AMERICAN GARDENING AND FRUITS?
WITH DESIGNS FOR PROMOTING THE RIPEN-
ING OF FRUITS, AND SECURING THEM

AS FAMILY COMFORTS ;

AND FURTHER,

OF ECONOMICAL PRINCIPLES.IN BUILDING
FARMERS’ HABITATIONS.

PHILADELPHIA;
PRINTED BY T. L. PLOWMAMH,

FOR JOHN MORGAN, NO. 26, sOUTH THIRD-
as STREET,

1803.

>

ADVERTISEMENT.

THERE is a difference respecting country
habitations as they are recommended by the au-
thor of essays and notes on husbandry, and what is
said of country habitations in this work. The for-
mer was written upon the happening of certain
events, which seem to have induced a hasty recom-
mendation of the principles on which to build coun- ;
try habitations, with the especial purpose of effec-
tually guarding against their being destroyed by
fire, and also particularly for preventing their be-
ing easily broke into by force or surprise. At
first, it was published singly, in a pamphlet; and
afterwards inserted in the volume of collected es-
says and notes on husbandry. The present editor
being to recommend a mode of bu‘lding country

habitations upon more enlarged principles, and that

ADVERTISEMENT.

will be the most suitable to farms in America, in
particular; some considerable alterations are de-
signed, for rendering the American farmers’ habi-
tations not only secure against fire, but also the best
adapted to the business and employments of far-
mers, andthe habits and manners of country peo-
ple; at the same time that, in certain situations,
that form of building may be preferred, and the air-
holes in the recesses occasionally applied in the de-
fence of the doors and windows, against outrages
of burglars, as far as the perfectly square angles of

a building will admit of it.

The editor has condensed this work, that it
might not run into a high price: but the author’s
thirteen plates of engravings could not be omitted,
and it is hoped, the two plates now added will be
satisfactory in illustrating ‘the subjects they relate

to— These articles of expence could not be avoided.

Wi o

A TREATISE

ON THE
CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT

OF

FRUIT-TREES, Gc.

OF APRICOTS.

The names and qualities of Apricots commonly cultis
vated in England, &c.

‘Tue Masculine Apricot is small and round ;_ the
earliest in ripening, about the end of Fuly, in Eng-
land. It is chiefly esteemed for its tart taste. Red to-
wards the sun; a greenish yellow on the other side.
The Orange: large, but rather dry and insipid:
fitter for tarts than for the table: a deep yellow co-
lour when ripe, the latter end of August. It is
considered the best for preserving, in England. The
Algiers: a flatted, oval shaped fruit; a straw co-
lour, juicy, and high flavour. Ripens the middle
of August, in England.—The Roman: larger than
the Algiers, rounder; of a deep yellow, and not
quite so juicy. Ripe the middle or end of August,
in England. The Turkey: larger than the Ro-

B >»

(2)

man; sharper, more globular, flesh firmer and dri-
er: ripens the end of August, in England. The
Breda is large, round, anddeep yellow: the flesh
soft and juicy: an excellent fruit. Ripe the end
of August, in England. The Brusse/s: in very
great esteem; bearing well on standards and
large dwarfs. The fruit, a middling size, red
towards the sun, with many dark spots; of a
greenish yellow on the other side. It has a brisk
flavor; not mealy or doughy. On a wall, ri-
pens in August; but not till the end of September
instandards, in England. oor-park, called also,
Anson’s, Temple’s, and Dunmore’s Breda: a
fine fruit; ripens end of August, in England.
The Peach-apricot: the finest and largest of all
apricots; ripens in August, in England. ‘The
Black-apricot : highly esteemed in France: this is
also called the Alexandrian apricot; and, says For-
_syth, it will prove an acquisition in England.

Mr. Forsyth then gives, a regular succession of
fruit for accommodating those who have small gar-
dens, from the /arger selections ; retaining only the.
best kinds; of which one or two trees of a sort
may be planted, according to the wants of families.
The like selection he appliesto other fruits—peaches,
plums, pears, wet

63) ))

A SELECTION OF APRICOTS FOR
A SMALL GARDEN.

The Masculine; the Roman; the Orange; the
Breda; and the Moor-Park.

Of Planting, Pruning, and Training Apricots, in
England.

PLANT in autumn, soon as the leaf begins tofall.
Choose from the nursery, those having the strong-
est and cleanest stems. If they have been previ-
ously headed down, of two or three years growth,
they will bear, and fill up, sooner than others.—
Prefer them with one stem. If there be two stems,
cut away one, however fair.

The dorders wherein the trees are to be planted,
if new, are to be made two and a half, or three feet
deep, of good, light, fresh loam. If to be planted
where trees had stood, it may be proper to take
out the old mould, at least three feet deep and four
feet wide, filling up with fresh loam ; and plant the
trees eight inches higher than the level of the old
border, to allow for sinking of the earth, that they
may not be too deep in the ground; but more of
this in treating of Pear-trees.

( 4)

When the trees are planted, by no means head
them down till Apri/ or May, when they begin to
throw out fresh shoots. Cut strong trees, a foot
from the ground; the weak ones, about half that
length. ,

In backward seasons, head down not so early ;
never till the buds are fairly broken; always cut
sloping (towards the wall, if a wall is intended,)
and as near to an eye as possible, that the young
leading shoot may cover the cut, [pl.I. fig. 1.]
which operation should be again performed in the
ensuing March or April. The shoots thatare then |
thrown out are to be trained Jorizontally, to cover
the wall. ‘The number to be left may be three to
six on each side, according to the strength of the
main shoot. With finger and thumb rub off the
foreright shoots a// over the tree, except a few, if
wanted, to fill up the wall, near the body of it.

[pl. I. fig. 1.]

In the second year shorten the horizontal shoots
in the same manner, according to their growth ;—
and so on, every year, till the wa// is completely
covered from top to bottom.

es)

Some gardeners head down the trees at the time
of planting; which often proves fatal to them.

Where large branches have been cut off, from
full-grown trees, im a careless manner, and the
wounds left to nature, the whole tree is infected
with the gum and canker. In which case, to save
or restore the tree’s fruitfulness and health, pare off
the cankered part of the bark with a draw-knife.
Often the white, inner bark, is found infected,
which also is to be cut away ; not leaving a single
brown or black spot ; which are like dots made with

a pen.

All the branches so cut and pared, are instantly
to be covered with the composition in a liquid state :
the preparation and application wherecf, see post.
Wherever the knife has been used, the compost-

tion must be immediately applied.

Ihave, says Mr. Forsyth, a great dislike to au-
tumnal pruning of fruit-trees; especially of stone
fruit. By pruning these, the canker is apt to fol-
low it. In the spring, when the sap begins to flow,
and will follow the knife, the lips will quickly

grow.

(6 ¥

Covering apricots (and other fruit-trees) will
prevent the blossom from destruction by frost,
cutting winds, &c. In severe weather cover them
before the flowers begin to expand; for they often
drop off before they are opened.

The best covering is old fish-nets, put on three-
fold; with a few branches of. dry fern, stuck in
among the branches before the nets are put on-
They assist greatly in breaking high winds. The
practice of covering with mats in the night, and
taking them off in the day, is injurious in exposing
the trees frequently to the cutting winds. Cover-
ing with branches of spruce fir, is also injurious,
from being too close, and promoting the curl of the
heaves of the trees, and the shoots to break very
weak; whereas the vets admit of a free circulation
of air, yet break the force of the winds. It rains
or shows, sometimes, in the forepart of the night,
and freezes towards morning; the drops are then
found hanging in icicles on the meshes, while the
tree is almost dry.

In England, a west aspect is reckoned preferable
for the general crop. A few trees they plant on a
south aspect, for an early supply; and for a late
supply, a few on an east aspect. *

(56)

PLUMS,

Selected by Mr. Forsyth for a small garden, in Eng-
land; with certain notices on their culture, Sc.
there.

THE selection recommended by Mr. Forsyth for
his small garden, consists of—The Jaunhative ;
Early Damask ; Orleans; La Royal; Green Gage
(sorts) ; Draps d’Or; Saint Catherine, and Impe-
ratrice. ‘The Magnum Bonum, for baking; and
the Winesour, for preserving.

Of the Faunhative, Mr. Forsyth observes, it is
a small plum (by some called White Prismordian),
of a yellow colour, and mealy. Ripe, the end of
Fuly, or first of August. One tree, he says, is
sufficient for a garden.

The £arly Damask, commonly called the Mo-
rocco Plum, is middle sized, the flesh good. Ri-

pens in early August.

The Red Orleans, islarge; rich juice. Ripe end
of August.

La Royal; a fine Plum, equal to the Green
Gage; but a shy bearer; of ared colour. Ripens
late in September.

("sy J

Green Gage; several varieties, andall good. Is
of an exquisite taste ;—eats like a sweetmeat. Its
colour and size distinguish it from any other. Ri-
pens in August and September.

Drap @Or is a good Plum—a plentiful bearer.
Ripe /ate in September.

Saint Catherine Plum is one of the .best—much
used in confectionary ; also very good for the table, ©
having a rich sweet juice; and is a good bearer,
hanging the longest of any upon the tree: some-
times six weeks in gathering. Ripens date in Sep-
tember.

The [imperatrice, or Empress Plum, has an agree-
able flavor: Ripens the middle of October. This
is one of the latest Plums—should not be gathered
till it begins to shrivel ; it will then eat like a sweet-
meat, and make a great addition to the table in the
latter end of October and beginning of ovember.

On the choice, planting, pruning, 8c. of Plum-
Trees, see those treated of under Apricots, ante.
If there are any zap-roots, cut them off; and also
the fine dairy roots, they being liable to become

Wifi,

mouldy and rot. Ifthe roots, says Mr. Forsyth,
are not spread near the surface of the ground, it will
prevent the sun and air from penetrating to them;
and the fruit, of course, will not have so fine a fla-
vour.

Never cut the stems of young Plum-trees when
first planted, but leave them till the buds begin to
break; then they may be headed down to five or
more eyes, always observing to leave an odd one
for the leading shoot : observing to cut sloping to-
wards the wall, and as zear to an eye as possible.

Speaking of the distance between the trees, Mr.
Forsyth says, Plum-trees should be planted accord-
ing to the height of the wall, (when not a standard.)
If the wall be ten feet high (the common height),
they may be planted eight yards distance from tree
to tree. Ifthe wall be twelve feet high, or more,
seven yards will suffice.

By training an upright shoot on the Plums, as
for Pears, there wil be gained fine kind shoots
from the sides. Shorten the leading shoot, leay-
ing it one to two feet long, according to its strength.

€

( 10 )

Plum-trees intended for standards, (as the cli-
mate of America prefers for all fruit-trees, not ab-
solutely exotic), Mr. Forsyth recommends should,
in Ingland, be prepared as follows :—The year
before they are meant to be transplanted, cut in the
side shoots at different lengths, from one foot to
three, according to the size of the trees ; suffering
them to grow rude all the summer, without rail-
ing-in nor cutting the side and foreright shoots,
Sometimes during winter open the ground round
their roots, and cut in the strong ones ({or promo-
ting the putting forth fine young fibres); then fill
in the earth. In the following autumn, or during
the winter (the sooner the better), transplant them
out, as standards. He considers it to be of great
consequence, in transplanting trees, especially if
large, that they be placed in the same position, that
is, having the same parts facing the same points of
the compass as formerly. When a tree is cut down,
three parts in four of the growth, appear on the
north side. If, however, it is intended to plant
them against a wa//, never cut the sikle shoots, says
Mr. Forsyth, but ony the roots ; by which the trees

will bear fruit the first year after transplanting.

(“tg )

The ground in the borders and quarters should
be well trenched, two spits deep, where fresh trees
are to be planted ; to give the roots room to run in-

to the fresh stirred ground.

Plum-trees, as standards, in an orchard to be
kept for grass, should be in rows twenty yards from
each other, says Mf. F.—If in the kitchen garden,
as standards, he recommends that they be dwar/s.
They may be trained up to have a stem three feet
high, at the distance of seventeen yards.

Dwarf standards can be kept to the size you
please. ‘They look much handsomer than Espali-
ers, and produce a greater quantity of fruit.

In cold, frosty weather, cover Plums in the same
manner as Apricots, as above. They are more
tender than other sorts of stone fruit; the flower-
cup dropping sooner.

Do not thin the fruit too soon, lest it be pinched
by the cold. The fruit is to be the sie of a small
marble, and well sheltered -by the leav2s, before :t

be thinned.

( 12 )

PEACHES,
Selected by Mr. Forsyth, for a small garden in Eng-
land; with his observations on their culture, ec.
THE selection of peaches for a small garden, in
England; consists of, the Early Avant; Small
Mignonne; the Ann Peach ; Royal George; Royal
Kensington; Noblesse; Early Newington; Gal-
lande; Early Purple; Chancellor; Nivette ; the
Catherine ; the Late Newington.

The Early Avant has an agreeable flavor ; ripens
in August, early.

The Small Mignonne, is very red next the sun ;

the flesh has a rich vinous juice: It is ripe about
the middle of August.

The Ann Peach, a fine early fruit: ripens the
middle or end of August.

The Royal George, comes in soon after the Ann.
The flower large and white: the fruit a dark red
towards the sun, and full of a fine rich juice. Ri-
pens the end of August.

(s..)

The Royal Kensington, is one of the best peaches
in England. Ofa high red colour next the sun;
yellowish next the wail: a good bearer, not apt to
be blighted. The fiesh is full ofrich juice. Ripens
near the end of August or early in September.

The JVoblesse, large; of a bright red colour to-
wards the sun: the flesh melting, and the juice very
rich. A good bearer; ripens the beginning of Sep-
tember.

Early Newington, beautiful red towards the sun,
full of a sugary juice: ripens beginning of Sepember.

The Gallande or Bellegarde; is very large, a deep
purple towards'the sun; the flesh melting and full
of averyrichjuice. ‘‘ This isa fine peach;”’ ripens

the middle of September.

The Early Purple, This fruit is large; of a fine
red colour, and full of rich vinous juice. Is an ex-
cellent peach: ripens about the middle of August.

The Chancellor, one of the best sort of peaches ;
of a fine red next the sun; the skin is thin, the flesh
melting, the juice very rich. Ripens, beginning of
September.

(ped aigs)

The Miverte, of a bright red next the sun; yellow-
ish cast towards the wall; the flesh melting, and
full of a rich juice. An excellent peach: ripens
the middle of September.

The Catherine, a fine large peach: a round make,
and beautifully red towards the sun. The flesh is
melting, and full of rich juice. ‘‘ The pulp is im-
proved by lying three or four days before it is eaten”
(says Mr. F.) Ripens about the Jatter end of Octo-
ber; but there are not many situations where it ri-

pens well. Is a plentiful bearer.

The Old Newington, is of a fine red colour; has

a high vinous tasted juice, and esteemed a good
Pa Pas f 4 at
Pavie (clingstoned.) Ripens, the end of September.

Planting, Pruning, Training, @&c. Peaches in
England.

Peaches require alighter soil than Pears and Plums.
A light mellow loam is best. In the choice of Peach
Trees, as to health, &c. see of Apricots, &c. Pro-
cure them the end of October or carly in November,
as soon as the leaf begins to fall; and best that the
ground be ready before hand. It is a great hurt
to fruit trees when planted too deep. "They should
be kept up above the level of the old ground, at first,

( 15 )

when planted, water the roots to settle the mould,
letting it remain some days till the water isabsorbed ;
then, tread the mould, and fiilthe holes upto the top ;
observing the same rules as before given in case of
dry weather, letting the fresh planted trees remain
unpruned till the spring.

When the buds begin to shoot, if they be of
maiden trees of one years growth, /ead them to five
or more eyes, according to their strength: then rub
on a little of the composition, where the top is cut
off, cutting it sloping, as before said, and as near the
top buds as may be; and also rub off the fore-right
shoots. If the leading shoot be very strong, pinch
off its top, the beginning of June. It prevents the
shoots growing too long in the first and second years,
by pinching their ends; but they should not be
topped, when the tree sends out fine kind shoots,
till the spring following, when they are to be pruned,
according to the strength of the tree, and the quan-
tity of wood it has made during the preceding sum-
mer, leaving the shoots from six to twelve inches
long; for soon filling the lower part of the wall. It
is too common to lay in the shoots at full length,
taking off only the points of the branches; which in
a few years is apt to leave the wall naked: but if

(16:

attention be paid to the training, especially for the
first four years the walls could always be filled with
fine bearing wood from top to bottom, and the trees
could produce a deal more fruit, of a finer qua-
lity, than when they are run up in the former way ;
for those trees are so weak, sometimes, as not to
have strength to bear good fruit. The third year,
with summer attentions, they may be brought
into a bearing state. If from very strong ground
they grow very vigorously, the strong shoots should
be pinched about Fune, for making them throw out
side shoots; and if not laid in too thick, they will
make fine bearing wood for the next year. If the
strong shoots are suffered to grow their full length,
they will be large and spongy ; and produce neither
fruit nor good wood for the following year. Weak
shoots, altho’ full of blossoms, never bear good
fruit. Suffering trees to be once weakened from abun-
dance of fruit, they never can recover. In such |

cases, pick off the fruit, that the tree may recover.
[See pl. III. Fig. 2.]

(91,5

When Peaches come into a bearing state, in
general, there will be soon two flower-buds, and it
will be soon what is called a wood-bud. Always
cut at such double buds ; as from between them,
come out the shoots that produce the fruit for next
year, [See pl. Ill. fig. 2.]

NECTARINES.
THEY differ from the Peach in nothing more
than their smooth rind, and the greater firmness
of their flesh.

Select Nectarines for a small garden.
Fairchild’s Early Nectarine ; the Elruge ; Scar-
let; Murry ; Newington; Red Roman. The
first four are clearstones ; the other two cling-
stones.

Nectarines are managed nearly as Peaches. The
same rules of pruning and cutting out diseased
parts. Thin the fruit when of a tolerable size.

PEARS.
Their Culture, Selection, &c. in England.
FOR asmall garden in England, Mr. Forsyth re-
commends the following selection of Pear-Trees :
D

( 18 )

SUMMER Prars: the Musk ; the Green Chissel ;
Jargonelle; Summer Bergamot ; Summer Bon-
chretien.

AUTUMN PEars: Orange Bergamot; Autumn
Bergamot ; Gansel’s Bergamot; Brown Beurre ;
Doyenne, or St. Michael ; Swan’s Ege.

WiInTER Pears: Crasane; Chaumontelle ; St.
Germain ; Colmer ; D’Auch; L’Esschasserie ;
Winter Bonchretien; Bergamot de Pasque.

The above, Mr. F. says, will furnish a regular
succession of fruit.

Of the sorts and management of Pear-Trees, in
England.

Observations on the Pears selected by Mr. For-
syth for a fmall garden, given in the preceding
pages: :

I. Summer Pears. There are several Mush
Pears, spoken of by Mr. Forsyth.—The Little
Musk, or Supreme ; goodonly a few days. The
Orange Musk ; apt to be dry. The Musk Robine
Pear, or Queen’s, or the Amber, is small, yel-

i th a Le

yk ae
.

io.)
low when ripe ; has arich, musky flavor ; agreat
bearer ; ripens the end of 4ugust. The Musk

Drone ; arich, musky taste: apt to be mealy,.

lest on the tree; ripens early in September. The
Musk Orange ; the skin green, the flesh melting ;
ripens early September.

The Green-Chissel, or Hasting’s Pear, is of a
middle size ; always remains gree, and is full of
juice when ripe, which is early in dugust.

The Fargonelle, or Cuisse Madame. Lady’s
Thigh. It is somewhat like the Windsor :—the
skin is smooth, of apale green colour. Aplenti-
ful bearer ; but is apt to be mealy, if left stand-
ing to be ripe, which is middle of August.

The Summer Bergamot, or Hamden’s Bergamot,
has a melting flesh, and a juice highly perfumed,
Ripens the end of September.

The Summer Bonchretien, very full of juice, of
arich perfumed flavor. Ripens the middle of

Sepiember.

Il. Autumn Pears. The Orange Bergamot.

(20°: ))

Autumn Bergamot: smaller than the Summer
Bergamot : the flesh is melting, the juice highly
perfumed. A great bearer. Ripens early in Oc-
tober.

Gansell’s Bergamot.

Brown Beurre: a reddish brown next the sun,
yellowish on the other side; the flesh melting,
full of rich juice. Ripens in October. An ex-
cellent Pear. ,

Doyenne, or St. Michael.

Swan’s Egg: middle size, egg-shape; green ;
flesh melting, full of pleasant, musky juice. Comes
in eating in November. Bears well.

III. WiyTer Pears. The Crasane: the flesh
extremely tender and buttery, full of rich sugar-
ed juice. The very best of the season: comes
into eating late in December.

The Chaumontelle (wilding of Chaumontelle)
is melting; the juice very rich: is in eating in
Fanuary.

The St. Germain is a fine fruit and keeps long ;
the flesh is melting, and very full of juice ;

( au)

which, in a dry season is very sweet: it is in eat-
ing from December till February.—NotTe. In dry
seasons, fruit should not be suffered to sweat so
long in the heaps, as directed in treating of gather-
img and laying up fruit. Perhaps two weeks will
be long enough, says Mr. Forsyth.

The Colmar Pear is very tender; the juice
greatly sugared. Is 27 eating about the first of Za-
nuary. "he D’ Auch Pear much resembles the
Colmar ; but is fuller towards the stalk; and is
in eating from Christmas to April ; ‘‘ and without
exception is the best of all the winter Pears.”—
L’Esschaserie has flesh melting and buttery; the
juice sugary. In eating early in Fanuary. ‘The
Winter Bonchretien Pear is very large; the flesh
tender and breaking, and is very full of a rich su-
gared juice. It is 72 eating fromtheendof March
till Fune.

The Bergamot de Pasque, goes also by the names
of, the Terling, the Amoselle, the Paddington
and the Tarquin. It is a fine handsome fruit—
green when gathered—yellowish when ripe.
Comes into eating in April, continues till June—
and makes a handsome appearance at table.

(922 )

Mr. Forsyth advises, that instead of choosing
young Pear-Trees to plant out, the oldest in the
nursery should be looked for and preferred, with
strong stems: to take them up carefully with as
much root as possible, and carefully plant them,
after cutting the roots a little, spreading them as
horizontally as canbe. ‘Then fill up all round the
roots, with light, dry mould, forcing it in about
those which lie hollow with a pointed stick ; fill-
ing the whole up to the top, without treading the
mould till the hole is first filled with as much wa-
ter as it will contain, leaving it a day or two, un-
til the ground has absorbed the water: then throw
on some fresh, dry mould, and tread it as hard as
it can be; fill the hole up again with mould to
within an inch of thetop, and give it a second wa-
tering, leaving the mould three inches higher than
the border, tosettle of itself, and receive rain that
falls; for at least a month. When the mould is
became quite dry, it may be trod a second time ;
then make a large bason round the tree, and give
it another watering ; then mulch the top over with
rotten leaves or dung, observing to water the
trees once a week in dry weather, and sprinkle
“the gops frequently with a pot or hand-engine, to
keep the wood from shrivelling till the trees have

taken fresh root.

( 23 )

In planting trees against a wall, let the stem
stand sloping towards it ; its lower part being
no more nor less than six inches from the bottom
of the wall, that the stem may have room to grow ;
and let the stem not lean, but be perfectly up-
right. When standards are planted a foot or two
from the wall, it gives them a disagreeable ap-

pearance: six inches, he says, will be full enough.

When the buds begin to break well, head the
trees to three or four eyes, for filling the wall
with fine wood. Never head them afterwards,
except the leading shoot, to fill the wall ; leaving
the foreright shoots to be pruned.-—Mr. F. says,
he had trees giving forty Pears the second year ;
while some of the same kind bore only eleven
Pears the fourteenth year after planting, with the

common method of pruning.

If any of the trees get stunted after a number of
years, nothing more, he says, is to be done but to
head them, as he directs,. which will restore them

into fresh vigour and fruitfulness.

The method, he says, of pruning Pear-frees is
very different from that practised for /pple-trees,

( 4)

in general. [See pl. VII. Letters C. and D.] Mr.
}. supposes it would be between twelve and four-
teen years before he could obtain any fruit from
young Pear-trees. But he makes a comparative
experiment in pruning or heading Pear-trees. He
cut down four old and decayed Pear-trees, of dif-
ferent kinds, near where they had formerly been
grafted : this was performedthe 15th May. Find-
ing that they put forth fine shoots, he headed down
four more on the 20th of June, of the same year,
(by which time the former had shoots a foot long),
which did equally well, and bore some fruit in
the following year. One of the first four headed
down, wasa St. Germain, which produced nine- :
teen fine large well-flavored Pears next year, [see
Letter B. pl. VII. ] and in the third bore more fruit
than in its former state it ever did, when it was
four times the size. He left seven trees upon an
east wall, treated according to the common method
of pruning, which bore as follows:

The number of Pears produced upon each of
seven trees that had been treated according to the

common method of pruning, viz.

1. Epine d’Hyver produced eighty-six pears,
and the tree spread fifteen yards.

( 2 )

2, A Crasane produced one hundred Pears, and
the tree spread fourteen yards.

3. Another Crasane produced sixteen Pears, and
the tree spread ten yards.

4, A Virgouleuse produced one hundred and fif-
_ ty Pears, and the tree spread nine yards.

5. A Colmar produced one hundred and fifty
Pears, and the tree spread nine yards.

6. Another Colmar produced seventy-nine Pears,
and the tree spread ten yards.

7. A L’Eschasserie produced sixty Pears.*

Compared with the above,—seven trees, headed
down and pruned according to his, Mr. Forsyth’s
method, leaving the foreright shoots in summer,
they bore as follows, in the fourth year after heading:

1. A Louisbonne bore four hundred and sixty-
three Pears, and the tree spread nine yards.

*® Total 641.
Ez

( 26 )

2. Another Louisbonne bore three hundred and
ninety-one Pears, and spread eight yards.

3. A Colmar bore two hundred and thirteen
Pears, and spread six yards.

4. A Brown Beurre bore five hundred and three
Pears.

5. Another Brown Beurre bore five hundred and
fifty Pears.

6. A Crasane bore five hundred and twenty
Pears.

_ 7. A Virgouleuse bore five hundred and eighty
Pears.t

The branches of the four last trees spread nearly
in the same proportion as the first three.

A young Beurre the second year after heading
bore 230 Pears, and a St. Germain 400.

| Total 3220. That is 5 to 1.

“ee
me

( 27 )

Allthe above trees stood upon the same aspect
and the same wall, and the fruit was numbered in
the same year. The trees pruned according to the
old practice covered, atleast, one third more wall
than the others.

By the above statement, the trees headed down
bore upwards of five times the quantity of fruit that
the others did; and they keep increasing, he says,
in proportion to the progress of the trees.

Add to this vast encouragement and superiority
of his pruning, that on the 20th June, Mr. Forsyth
headed several standards that were nearly destroyed
by the canker ; some of them were so loaded with
fruit the following year, that he was obliged to prop
the branches. In the fourth year after these stand-
ards were headed down, one of them bore 2840
Pears. On the same border were three standards,
two whereof were St. Germains; the old trees was
_of the same kind. One of these trees, twenty years
old, had five hundred Pears on it, a great crop for
its size: so that there were on the old tree, which
had been headed down not quite four years, 2340
Pears more than on the tree of twenty year’s growth.

( 28 )

Mr. Forsyth gives a curious account of the re-
covering an old decayed Pear-tree, illustrated with
a plate (VIII.)—Restored from an inch and half
of bark, which now covers a wall sixteen feet high.
In 1796, it bore 450 fine large Pears, and continues
flourishing. The plate, however, is so badly drawn
as to be scarely worth copying. In referring to the
plate, he refers to “‘ fruit-buds for the present year—
others forming for next year ; and old footstalks that
bore the fruit last year ;” but they are scarcely in-
telligible.

The following Mr. Forsyth gives as his method in
training trees that are cut near to the place where
they were grafted. “Every year, in March, he
shortens the /eading shoot, to a foot or eighteen
inches, according to its strength; this shoot, if the
tree be strong, will grow from five to seven feet in
one season; and if left to nature would run up with-
out throwing out side shoots. The reason for thus
shortening the leading shoot, is to make it throw
out side shoots ; and if done close to a bud, it fre-
quently will cover the cut in one season, leaving on-
ly a cicatrix, as at ff. f. inpl. VIII. which shews
every year’s growth and cicatrix. When the shoots
are very strong, he cuts the leading shoot twice in

( 29 )

one season; by which he gets two sets of side shoots
in one year; Which enables him to cover the wall
the sooner. The jirst cutting is performed any time
during the spring, and the second the middle of

Fune.

He directs, when you prune the trees, and cut the
foreright shocts, which is to be in February or
March, always cut close to an eye or bud, observ-
ing where there are the greatest number of leaves at
the /ower bud, and cut at them ; for at the foot stalk
of every one of these will be produced a flower bud.
‘The same, he adds, will hold good in cutting the su-
perfluous shoots on standard Pears. There will be
in some sorts of Pears, from five to nine Pears ina
cluster. ‘This cutting is to be not later than March
or first cf April, because of the leading shoot begin«
ning to grow: the next topping, when the leading
shoot grows quick enough to admit of it, will be the
middle of Fune ; and the length of the shoots are to
be according to their strength, having from three
eyes or buds, to six on a side.

The cankery part, he says, beginning to affect
the new bark, he cut off all the canker at the bot-
tom last year, and plastered the place with cow-

( 30 )

dung, mixed with wood ashes and powder of burnt
bones, put into as much urine and soapsuds as would
make it the consistence of thick paint. It was laid
on witha painter’s brush. After being applied three
hours, it was patted gently down with the hand,
close to the tree: by which the air-bubbles that
may hap to be under the composition, and make
it adhere to the tree, preventing its being washed
off by rain, are got rid of.

In August, early, the foreright shoots are shorten-
ed to about four inches long; by this time the shoot
will have made its full growth for the season, and
will produce fine strong eyes for the following year.

The tree above mentioned had a decayed, rotten
root, the dead part of which he cut all away, till he
came to the sound wood. Whenever the trunk is
hollow, he directs that it be followed under ground
till all the decayed parts and rotten roots are cut out,
otherwise the tree will be lost.

If, says Mr. Forsyth, the above be followed, more
Pears will be got in three or four years, than can be
in twenty- five years by planting young trees, and
pruning and managing them in the common way.

Faas
Pa
J
* a w)
. -

(a

But it may happen that the Pears become stunted
after cold blighting winds, and frosty nights (as
sometimes seen in June and July*). In this case,
Mr, Forsyth recommends a new and bold method
of operation, when the weather becomes milder, or
begins to be so :

He says, take a sharp pen-knife, and with its
point cut through the rind of the Pear, from the
footstalk to the eye, as if it were a bark-bound tree,
cutting as little into the flesh of the tree as possible.
Beat up fresh cow-dung with wood ashes, and rub
in a little of this composition with the fore finger,
where the cut is made.

The distance he gives Pear-trees against walls,
and breadth of borders, are twelve yards: but the
distances vary too greatly to enter into detail. Bor-
ders should be 10 to 20 feet wide. But here is
much extravagance.

* No such cold weather ever happens in the United
States, at least not beyond the 41°. So far from it,
it is thought strange there should be frost in May.

( 32 )
VINES.

MR. FORSYTH selects for a -smail garden in
England, the following Vines :—The White Musca-
dine; White Sweet Water ; Black Sweet Water ;.large
Black Cluster ; small Black Cluster ; the Miller
Grape. St. Peters, and the Black Hamburgh, may
do very well in favorable seasons.

The White Muscadine, above selected, resembles
the Royal Muscadine, but the berries are smaller.
It is the best grape for a common wall, and a great
bearer. Also-called the Common, and the Chas-
selas.

The White Sweet Water. The berry large, a
white colour; very agreeable juice. Esteemed an
excellent grape. Ripens in September.

The Black Sweet Water. Small berry, sweet ;
but apt to crack. Not muchinrepute. Ripens in
September.

The large Black Cluster. A very rough, harsh
taste. Speechlay says it is the grape of the Opor-
to wine.

( 33)
The small Black Cluster. A very pleasant fruit.

The St. Peter’s Grape. Large oval berries ;
deep black; bunches large: the flesh juicy. Ri-
pens late. |

The Black Hamburgh. Bunches large—large
berries—pleasant sweet juice, vinous. Ripens in
November.

Cuttings of Vines, take from shoots the best ri-—
pened, with the shortest joints—always with one or
two joints of the last year’s wood : cutting it as near
a joint of the old wood as possible.

Choose cuttings after a warm, dry season. Each
cutting to have two inches of the old wood, with one
eye of the new.

Training and Pruning Vines.

In 1789, says Mr. Forsyth, I let two strong
branches grow to full length, without topping them
'in the summer. In 1790, he trained them ina ser-
pentine form, [pl. X.] leaving about 30 eyes on
each shoot, which produced 120 fine bunches of
grapes, weighing from one pound toa pound and.

F

a quarter cach. All who saw them said the large

ones were as fine as forced grapes; while the small

enes produced: from branches of the same Vine,

trained and pruned in the old way, were bad natu-

ral grapes, and not above twice the size of large
currants.

To confirm this experiment, he next year trained
five plants in the same way, allowing the shoots in-
tended for bearing wood to run to their full length

“mm summer, training wherever there was a vacancy
hetween the old trees; where there was none, he run
them along the top of the wall, without topping
them. In winter he trained them in a serpentine
manner, so as to fill the wall as regularly as possi-
ble : they were as productive as those in the former
years.

After a three year’s trial, he thought himself war-
ranted to follow the same practice with the whole ;
and in 1793, he sent for the king’s use 378 baskets
of grapes; each weighing three pounds, without
planting a single Vine more than were the preceding
year, when he could send only 56 baskcts of the
same weight. The above proves the great advan-
tage of the serpentine method of training Vines.

( 35)

It must be observed, the shoots should be brought
as near as possible from the bottom of the Vines, that
the wall may be well covered. When the walls
are high, and the shoots from the serpentine branches
strong, they may sometimes be suffered to remain.
If the walls are low, and the serpentine branches
give weak shoots, they are tobe cut in the autum-
nal pruning, and the strongest of the young wood is
trained up in their room, as directed in the explana-
tion of pl. X. .

The wood, in pruning and training Vines, must
be strong, or the Vines will produce small bunches.
If that be the case, cut them down to two or three
eyes, in order to have strong wood for the next year.
Vines bear their fruit on the wood that was produced
the preceding year. The deal of old naked wood
that occurs, and small weak shoots at the extremi-
ties, always cut down as near to the ground as pos-
sible. There then will be no fruit for that year.
Or cut every other shoot, leaving the old ones to
produce some small grapes. ‘The next year there
will be plenty of fine wood, if care has been taken
to nail-in the strongest shoots, and pick off the side
shoots produced from the eyés;° pinching off with
finger and thumb, or with a sharp pen-knife cutting

+

( 36 )

them out close tothe bud or eye; but never twist
them: by twisting them, the bud will be hurt that
produces the grapes next year; always cutting as
near to a bud as possible, and laying in the wood
very thin in summer; so it will grow very strong.
Pick of all side shoots as often as there is nailing to

the wall, which will be several times in the summer
months.

Suffer not the Vines to run together in a cluster,
‘and to mat, which will ruin their bearing the next
season. ‘Top the shoots trained serpentine-like,
soon as the grapes are as big as very small green
peas, a joint or two above the fruit; but ever top

the leading shoot, nor which is intended to give fruit
next year.

In the second year’s pruning, observe not to prune
Vines till the beginning of february, unless in case
of uncommon forwardness in the season. It is com-
mon with some, to begin pruning soon after the fall
of the leaf, before the wood becomes hard: but if a
frost sets in before the wood is hard, especially after
wet summers and autumns, it will be much injured.
Mr. F. has seen Vings almost killed after autumnal
pruning. When the Vine leaves begin to fall, take

Cney..’)

a soft broom and sweep them off, upwards, in a
gentle manner, which helps to harden the wood.

In beginning to prune in February, make choice
of the strongest and longest shoots ; leaving them as
long as the eyes are found good and plump, and the
wood round ; but never leave them when they be-
come /lat ; for in that case they seldom bear fruit ;
and if they do, it will be very small. Mr. I’. never
lays in any that has less than fifteen, and from that
to thirty good eyes, which will produce two bunches
from every good eye. He has had seventy bunches
of grapes from one shoot.

The shoots that bore fruit in the preceding year
should be cut out next year ; except when the wall
is to be filled, and the shoots are very strong. A
plenty offine, healthy young wood isalwaysto be had,
if there be care in pruning in the winter ; therefore,
he says, never leave any but fine strong wood, always
cutting at the second, third or fourth eye, rubbing
off the lowest bud, and that which comes out at the
joint between the new and last year’s wood. ‘Thus
as much fruit is got from these short shoots, as would
be by the common pruning.

( S88 )

Always leave two or three of the strongest shoots
for next year’s bearing wood, and never top them :
and, ifthere is a want of room to train them, they
may be led over the tops of the other trees, or run
them behind the standards; which will have a beau-
tiful appearance when the fruit is ripe.

The composition presented by Mr. Forsyth to the
world, through the bounty of the government and
Parliament of Great-Britain, is always to be applied
as soon as possible after pruning. The Vine is very

porous, and soon imbibes wet and moisture, which
soon bring it to decay.

Ifa Vine, from being cut late, should bleed, the
powder is to be applied, and Pree till the bleed-
ing is stopped.

‘To try the effect of the powder in stopping the
bleeding of Grape-Vines, Mr. F. cut two strong
Vine branches in Fune, and three more in Fuly, in
very hot weather. The sap rose so strong that it
worked out at the top in a froth: on applying the
powder, it was in a short time entirely stopped.

( 39 )

Watering Vines.

When the grapes are se¢ and begin to swed/, wa-
ter them with the barrow-engine ; sprinkling all over
the /eaves and fruit, pressing the fore finger over the
top of the pipe, so that the water can be thrown as
fine as small rain.

Insects on Grapes.

Soon as the large fly, &c. appears, have bottles,
a good number, about half full with some sweet /i-
guor, where the insects will be drowned. Hang the
bottles all over the Vines, and some at the bottom
of the walls. Hang them up early, as the blue fly
comes much earlier than the wasp, and is not less
destructive.

Against birds, nets or bunting are to be thrown '
over the grapes. 3

It is a bad practice to take off the /eaves from
Vines soon aiter the fruit is set ; which prevents the
fruit from swelling, and it becomes 4ard and small,
apt to crack.

Grapes are kept wrapped in soft paper, and cover-
ed, layer and layer, with bran well dried: but short

(40)

cut, sound, dry straw must be better, as the dusting
of meal on the bran will produce mites, &c.—The
grapes bagged, and the jar or pot being filled, layer
and layer with them and the cut-straw, they are
then closely secured ina dry room, nor cold nor hot.

FIGS.

FIGS have been cultivated in England ever since
the year 1562. Mr. Forsyth gives an account of
fifteen sorts the best worth cultivating in England.
They are, he says, raised from suckers, layers, or
cuttings ; which will thrive in almost any soil, but
do not like a wet bottom: they generally, he adds,
produce more fruit on a strong loamy soil than on
‘adry one. Layers or cuttings are preferable to
suckers.

Pruning and Culture of Figs.

They should never, says Mr. Forsyth, be pruned
in autumn or during the winter : his best time is the
latter end of Apri or beginning of May ; by which
time will be seen what shoots have been killed by
the frost in winter. The end of those branches
more particularly will be hurt where the wood has

( 41 )

not ripened wellin antumn : they should be cut nto
the sound weod, and as near to an eye as_ possible.
When the branches have been suffered to run up,
leaving the bottom quite naked, there should be cut
out every other branch as near to the ground as can
be; which will furnish the wall with fine young
wood ; observing to stop the ends of the shoots in
the beginning of Fune ; this will cause them to
throw out side shoots which will bear fruit the next
summer. By that time theré will be plenty of /ine
wood: then may be cut down the rest of the old
branches left the preceding year, observing to prune
them about the same time the pruning was the last
year : remembering always to pinch off the ends of
the strongest shoots, except the leading ones, at
the top bud.

When the pruning is 7m the spring, never shorten
the shoots, as the fruit is produced near the ‘ops.
There will, he says, be many fine short side and
foreright shoots, which should never be cut off but
when decayed. These shoots, he thinks, will ripen
much better than the long strong ones, and not be
so liable to be killed by frost in winter. By following
this method, Mr. F. says, the trees will be covered
with fruit from top to bottom of the walls, instead

G

( 42 )

ofa few fruit only at the top, as when the common
method of pruning is practised.

When the Figs are the size of small nutmegs,
pinch off the point of the top bud with the finger and
thumb, or cut it with a sharp pen-knife ; always re-
membering to use the powder wherever is the cut or
pinch, to stop the oozing of the milk ; which, if suf-
fered, would exhaust and injure the trees.

Do not lay in the branches too thick, or near to-
gether; their distance should be twelve to eigh-
teen inches from each other. |

In the beginning of winter cover the trees before
the frost sets in, or the ends of the shoots will be
hurt by the first sharp frosts, before the wood is ri-
pened and 4ardened, which will render it necessary
to cut them as before. When Fig-trees are very
much injured in hard winters, the best way is to cut
as near the ground as possible ; and the second year
they may be got into a fine bearing state, ifmanaged
‘as above directed.

( 43 )

Covering Fig-Trees.

Mr. Forsyth covered with bentings,* or short,
grass from the pleasure grounds ; which he finds an-
swers the purpose very well. Figs, he adds, may
also be sheltered in winter, by wrapping hay or
straw bands round the branches of the trees ; then
open the ground, lay in the branches of the trees, and
cover them over with mould about nine inches deep,
leaving the ends of the shoots about three inches out
of the ground, and covering the ground over with
some rotten leaves or old tan, &c. to keep out the
frost. The roots also may be so covered.

Do not uncover the Figs too soon in the spring ;
and it should be parzzally, for fear of frosts and cut-
ting winds in Apri and May ; which would kill the
young fruit, as it makes its appearance in the
spring.

The branches laid into the ground should be taken
up in Apri/, taking off the hay and straw bands,

* Bentings, or bent-grass? Under Grapes, p. 129,
he says, cover the trees with “nets or bunting (a kind
of stuff which ship’s colours are made of).” But here,
(his p. 136), bentings seem to be the bent-grass ; for
he says, “ bentings or short grafs.”

( 443

and then nail them to the wall. Stick in among
the branches some fern leaves, or other /ight cover-
ing, to protect them from drying winds and frosts,
till the fruit is of the size ofa large walnut, or rather
till the leaves are large enough to protect the fruit.
The Italians, zo forward the ripening of Figs, drop
a little sweet oil from a quill into the dye of the fruit.
But take care not to hurt the skin and make the Fig
burst. This makes the difference of full zwo weeks

in the ripening.

Soon as the leaves degin to fall, brush them off
with a broom, but not till they come off easily, lest
the trees be made to bleed at the footstalks. Inthe
same moment clean the sta/ks of all the stalks of
small late fruit ;—which, if suffered to remain in
the winter, will rot and injure the tree, so as to
prevent it from bearing the next summer.

If milk is seen oozing from the footstalks, apply
some of the composition ; which will stop it and heal
the injured part: and by doing this, ripening and
hardening the wood before winter frosts set in will
be assisted. See before, p. 38, his powder applied

to Vines.

( 45 )

Plant Fig-trees 20 to 24 feet apart; and train
horizontally, which renders them much more fruit-
ful than if trained upright, which makes them run
up in long, naked wood.

Leave spurs or short shoots a// over the branches ;_
and when the buds degin to swell, all the short shoots
should be pinched as above.

The branches of standard Fig-trees are liable to
be killed in winters ; they therefore should be laid
in the ground, wrapping them up in hay or straw
bands, as directed for wall-trees. It sometimes will
be impracticable to lay down the middle branches :
then let them be well covered with hay or straw
bands, and the outside laid down regularly round the
tree, and avoiding to hurt them with the spade:
then mulch them with rotten leaves, &c.

After hard winters it has been found necessary to
cut Fig-trees down very near to the ground, and ap-
ply the composition: in two years the new wood has
covered over the old stump, and the branches filled
up the space, bearing a plenty of fine fruit.

In a plentiful year, what is not used at table, ane
be dried for winter use.

( 46 )
QUINCES.

THE best sort for the kitchen garden is the Por-
tugal, the best for baking or stewing. It is ofa fine
purple colour when dressed, and much better for
marmalade than any other sort. These also mix
well with apples in pies and puddings; adding a
quick pleasant flavor. )

They are easily raised by layers or cuttings taken
from the tree in March. Plant in a shady place, in
rows a foot apart, and three inches, plant to plant in
the rows. Mulch them with rotten leaves or rotten
dung, for keeping the ground moist about them.
Water them frequently in hot weather. About Mi-
chaelmass the well-rooted may be planted out ; and
the rest let remain over to another year.—They also
may be propagated by budding or grafting ; and
those trees will bear, Mr. F. says, sooner, and be
more fruitful than'those raised by any other method.

Prune Quince-trees much like Apple-trees, cut-
ting out all the diseased, old, and dead wood, and
the cross branches in the middle of the tree. In ge-
neral, old trees are much hurt by injudicious prun-
ing: in that case, 4ead them down, cut out all the

Ce

cankery part, and all the diseased and dead wood
where the tree is hollow, or where large branches
have been cut or broken off; applying always the
e€omposition as for Apple-trees.

Quince-trees are apt to have rough bark, and be
bark-bound. Shave off the rough bark with a draw:
knife; and scarify them when bark-bound: then
brush them over with the composition, as hereafter.

Quinces ought to be planted some distance from
apples and Pears, as bees and the wind might mix
the farina, and occasion the apples and pears to de-
generate.

_ GOOSEBERRIES.

THE sorts common in England, Mr. Forsyth
says, are—

Green Gascoin, Hairy & Smooth Red,
Smooth Green, Large Smooth Yellow,
Early Black, Large Rough Yellow,

Small Early Red. Common Large White,

Large Smooth Dutch Yellow, Champaigne.

( 48)

They are raised from cuttings, or from seed ;
some raise them from suckers: but these last are
raised in a bad way ; as the bushes are more liable
to throw out suckers from them than in either of
the other ways.

Plant cuttings, he says, about Michaelmass ; al-
ways cutting them from the strongest and cleanest
shoots. The length of cuttings to be six to eight
inches, planting them on an east or north border,
one foot from row to row, leaving them about three
inches above ground: at this distance the hoe may
be admitted, for cleaning them from weeds and stir-
ring the soil. Water frequently in dry weather dur-
ing the spring.

Market gardeners near London plant them in
rows, 8 or 10 feet from row to row, and six feet,
plant to plant in the rows. In which case, Mr. F.
advises pruning them in the beginning of Octo-
ber ; and the ground between planted with colworts

or beans, for a spring crop.
After this time (or before) lay a coat of rotten

dung on: then dig and plant early potatoes; but

not so near the Gooseberries as to hurt them.

»
a -

( 49)

The roots of Gooseberries are to be kept clear
to admit sum and air. In small gardens, plant.
them in quarters by themselves ;. six feet between
the rows, and four feet, plant to plant ; or plant
them round the edges of the quarters, three feet
from the path; and then the ground will be clear
for cropping.

Gooseberries love a rich soz/ ; and should there-
fore be dunged every year, or at least a good coat
once in two years.

Never plant them, he says, under the shade of
other trecs ; which would injure the flavour of the
fruit.

Pruning Gooseberries.

It is a bad practice to let Gooseberry-bushes
branch out with great naked stems. When they
are found in this state, cut them down near to the
ground in the winter pruning. They then will
throw out fine strong healthy shoots, that will give
fruit the second year. In general, they bare their
fruit on thesecond year’s wood.

( 50 )

In summer keep the middle of the bush elear, to
admit a free air; leaving the finest and strongest
shoots from six to ten inches distant from each
other ; which will help to ripen and harden the
wood. It is, says Mr. F. a practice with some to
Shorten the shoots in the autumn or winter prun-
ing ; this, he adds, should always be near to a
wood-bud ; which is known by its being single,
whereas fruit-buds are in clusters. The shoots are
shortened to eight or ten inches, as they are strong.
Some leave them at full length three or four years,
thinning out those that are superfluous. Always
leave a number tobe trained up between the full
length shoots, to succeed them when they are tired
of bearing: then cut the old ones down to the
young that are to succeed them. Thus the bushes
are always in a constant state of bearing.

The branches cut in the first year, in the second
will throw ont short dugs, or spurs which produce
the fruit ; and these should by no means be cut
off, unless the branches are in asickly state, and
require to be cut close down when the bushes are
overloaded with fruit. It will then be necessary
to cut out a good deal of the old wood, to assist
nature to recover herself after being forced in
producing so great a quantity of fruit.

(a)

The Gooseberry supplies the table amply till
the wall-fruit comes in. Great additions to them
are of late made by raising them from seed.

By mixing up a rich soil to plant those in that
have been raised from seed, and by watering, shade
ing and thinning the fruit, they have grown much
Jarger than any ever before seen in England.

The catalogues of Gooseberries are brought to
contain between four and five hundred sorts or
varieties. Mr. Forsyth asked Messrs. M‘Niven,
nurserymen at Manchester, how many good and
distinct sorts (some hardly being distinguishable).
they could send him out of their numerous catae
logue: the answer was, ‘‘ They could send about
eighteen or twenty sorts, which they could an-
swer for being good and distinct.”—Mr. Forsyth
accordingly received, on his order, all the sorts
that they could warrant good, which turned out
to his satisfaction.

Great attention ought to be paid tothe cultiva-
tion of the early and late sorts before all others,
and he wishes attention be paid to the times of
ripening.

a

( 52 )

He disapproves of clipping the tops of Goose-
berry-bushes with garden-shears, which exceed-
ingly injures the bushes and the fruit.

In the spring and summer, grub up all the suck-
ers from the roots ot the bushes ; leaving their
stems clear and unincumbered.

To have the fruit very late, plant on orth walls
and palings between the other trecs ; and they
may be-removed when the trees begin to meet.
If /aid in thin, they will bear very fine and hand-
some fruit. Plant the finest Jae sorts. By this
method the table will be supplied much longer
than by the common practice of planting in quar-

Lers.

Immediately after pruning, Mr. F. always ap-
plies the composition to the ends of the shoots and
cuttings; and he finds it of great use in prevent-
ing the exhalation of the sap, and preserving the
cuttings till they take root.

-Asmall green caterpillar frequently devours
the leaves and fruit of Gooseberry-bushes. Watch
their curly coming, and destroy them before they

a

|

get ahead, or they will destroy all the leaves, and
the fruit will be worthless. Their first appear-

ances are under and at the edges of the leaves.

Tokill the green caterpillar, lay sifted guick-lime
under the bushes: but at first let none touch the
branches or leaves ; then shake each bush suddenly
and smartly. ‘The caterpillars then fall into the
lime. If the bush be not very suddenly shook,
with a spring, the insects being a little disturbed
will cling close tothe leaves, hardly to be shaken
off. After this is done, sift some of the lime over
and on the bushes, which will drive down those
that may be lodged on the branches. Next day
sweep up the caterpillars, and wash the bushes
with clear lime-water, mixed with urine. ‘This
will destroy Aph:des as well as caterpillars.

CURRANTS.

THE sorts most commonly cultivated in Ene-
land are, the Redand White Dutch Currants, and
the Common Black and American Black Currants.
Also the following sorts are cultivated by the nur-

serymen about London and other parts of Eng-
land:

( 54 )

Common red, Long bunched red,
Champaignelargepa’'e&red, Striped-leav’d red,
Fine new white Dutch, White Crystal,
Large pale andred Dutch.

The Currant is the most useful of all the small
fruit, either for the table and kitchen, or for pre-
serving, making wine, &c. and continues longer
in succession than any other.

He further says, with proper attention, Currants
will continue in use fiom June to November.
Black Currants are very much esteemed by some ;
yet they are seldom sentto the table, but are very |
useful for making jelly, for sore throats, colds, &c.
In Ireland, he says, Black Currants are steeped in
whiskey, of which they make punch, and recom-
mend it as a medicine for coughs and colds. He
once had two gallons of it sent by a friend for that
purpose: some of it was taken in a glass of warm
water by a person much afflicted with a severe
_ cough, and thought to be iz a decline, which effect-
ed a perfect cure in three or four nights. The
Currants for this purpose should be bruised and
put in a jar, andthe whisky poured overthem. It
stands a fortnight, cover it close down; then it is

”

( 55 )

strained through a fine cloth or sieve, and put it
into bottles or casks for use. Currants, he adds,
may be used in this manner with brandy, gin, or
other spirits: and they may be preserved as cher-
ries, and sent up to table.

Propagation of Curranis.

They may be raised from seed, layers, &c.
When the trees are cut low, lay down some of the
branches in winter or spring, when the ground is
dug in the quarters or rows, which ought to be
annualiy. In the next autumn, these layers will
have made fine roots ; then they may be planted
out wherever wished to stand, when in the follow-

ing summer they will give fine fruit.

Currants may also be propagated by cuttings ;
choosing out the strongest and straightest shoots.

Under the bushes, covered for late fruit, there
will always be found a plenty of self-sown plants ;
which it is adviseable to plant out by themselves.
When wine is made of Currants, save and dry the
seed—then in autumn or early inthe spring sow
the seeds on fine light earth ; whenthere probably
will be some fine varieties. Do not propagate

( 56 )

them from suckers: they never grow handsome, -

and throw out many suckers.

Instead of some bad Currants retained in the
gardens in England, Mr. Forsyth recommends the.
rooting them out, and plant in their room the
Large Red and White Dutch, the Long Bunched
Red, and Ghampaigne Large Pale Red. They may
be planted out inthe same manner as Gooseber-
ries, in guarters, or single rows round the edges of

quarters .

A few, particularly, plant against a south or a
west wall or paling, which will give fruit much
earlier than in guarters, &c.—Also to plant some
between other fruit-trees on zorth walls or palings,
for later crops: these may be covered with double
nets, to preserve them from birds; tucking in afew
fern branches between the two nets, for preventing
the heat of the sum and drying winds from shrivel-
ling the fruit. In quarters, they should be eover-
ed with mats for the same purpose ; at the same
time permitting the leaves to remain on the bushes
to shade the fruit and make it keep the longer.

(,. 87" 9

Pruning Currant-Bushes.
It is nearly similar to that of Gooseberries. It
may be begun in Movember, and continue till March.

Never leave Currants too thick of wood; and
much depends on their management in summer,
that they may have strong and fine wood for the-
next season. If they have been neglected for years,
and suffered to run up to long naked wood, they are
to be cut down near the ground ;_ they then will set
forth fine strongshoots. Insuch case, Mr. Forsyth
recommends eading down every other tree, and
cutting the others partially, by taking out every
other branch as near as can be to the ground, unless
they are trained up with single stems, in which case,
he says, cut them as hear as possible to where the
branches begin to break out and form the head.

In the winter pruning preserve the strongest and
finest shoots, leaving them nine to eighteen inches
long, according to their strength, and from eight to
ten inches apart, and regular from top to bottom of
the trees ; cutting out the dead and weak shoots. —
Particular attention is to be paid in summer to keep
open the middle of the bush, to admit sun and arr ;
preserving the finest and strongest shoots, nearest

T

Ce if

the stem. Suffer not, for the sake of a fine round
head, that itrun too high, however comely, because
the winds are apt to break them if not well support-
ed by stakes. The shoots should run not to more
than six incheslong. He prefers dwarfs, three to
four feet high. Stock up all suckers at the roots of ©
the trees, and keep them very clean.—Suckers would
prevent the su and air from the roots, and weaken
the trees.

BARBERRIES.

MR. FORSYTH recommends Barberries in all
shrubberies. They attract and harbour singing
birds. The sorts are, the Red Barberry without
stems: the White Barberry: the Black Sweet, the
tenderest of them—plant in a warm situation: the
Common Red with stones, planted for its beautiful
red berries.

They are propagated from their suckers and lay-
ers, and require the like pruning with other flower-
ing shrubs. They look well planted in clumps.

When they are to be increased, encourage the
finest and cleanest shoots in summer, by trimming all
the side branches off thin; and when in winter the
shrubberies are dressed, lay down the strong shoots,
which will take root, and be fit to transplant in au-
tumn following. When designed for use, train them
up as standards and half standards, and they will
grow from six to twelve feet high. In summer
trim off all the straggling and superfluous shoots,
so as to make handsome heads.

Barberries may also be raised from seeds; but
suckers and layers are best for preserving the sorts
distinct.

They are used as pickles, in garnishing dishes,
and as a preserve. ‘They are excellent; to many
purposes ; and in making a cooling drink in fevers,
they are scarcely equalled ; and in punch are thought
by some to rival lemons.

RASPBERRIES.

THE sorts propagated in England, according to
Mr. Forsyth, are—

(S660: })

Early white, Large red Antwerp.
Double-bearing white, Large white Antwerp,
Largecommon white, Smooth cane double-bearing,
Large red, Woodward’s new Raspberry.

Propagating, Planting and Pruning Raspberries.
They are, says Mr. Forsyth, raised from suckers
and /ayers. They should be planted in a piece of
ground by themselves, and (except the early white)
at the distance of six feet from row to row, and four
feet in the rows.

First ¢zrench and dung the ground before the Rasp-
berries are planted : choose the strongest and finest
plants that come from the sides of the stools, where
they have been standing for some years ; or encou-
rage the strongest plants that come out betwixt the
rows after digging, which should be done annually.
In digging, the roots will frequently happen to be
cut with the spade, which will occasion many small
plants to come up; of which se/ect the strongest and
finest, and then hoe up all the rest. But he prefer-
red laying down some of the strongest outside shoots
in March ; as by the next autumn they will make
fine roots, and may be planted out where intended
toremain, These will be less liable to throw out
suckers than those produced from suckers.

( Gl )

Plant out fresh pieces of Raspberries in moist
weather, as the roots are very delicate, and subject
to be hurt if exposed toa dry air. If, however,
they are planted in dry weather, be sure to moisten
the roots with water, and cover them with wet litter
or leaves, during the time of planting.

In planting, open a trench with the spade along the
line where the suckers or layers are to be planted.
Cut off the small fibrous roots with a knife, leaving
only the stronger roots. Put them into the trench,
and cover them with earth: then water them well,
and throw the rest of the earth over them, to remain
till the planting is finished ; then where you first be-
gan to plant, begin and tread the ground with your
foot as hard as you can along each of the trenches,
and in the same direction as you planted : then with
a spade level all the ground smooth, and run it over
with a rake, taking off any stones and rubbish that
may be left on the surface.

In dry weather, water the plants two or three
times a week till they take root. The Antwerp
and other strong growers should be staked with
stout stakes: then run two small rails at top, to tie
the branches to.

( 62 )

The early white and smaller sorts may be plaited
together at top, tyimg them round with small yellow
willow, for keeping them together.

The Antwerps will thrive well against a north wall |
er paling, and give date crops.

Where the small red and white Raspberries are
found, destroy them,—and in their room plant the
following sorts: large red, smooth-cane double-bear-
ing, large redand white Antwerps, the large common —
white, double-bearing white, and Woodward’s new
Raspberry.

Some prefer to prune Raspberries in autumn, a
practice not approved by Mr. Forsyth; because
bearing the fruit on the wood of the preceding year,
they are liable to be killed by frost in severe win-
ters; but by deferring the pruning till February,
there will be creat choice of fine wood for bearing the
following summer ; always rooting out or cutting
down all the wood that bore fruit the preceding year,
which generally dies ; selecting only from jive to se-
ven of the most vigorous and strong shoots from the
last year’s wood, to bear fruit the ensuing year.
These shoots may be pruned to the length of three

€

( 63 )

or four feet, according to their strength, if they are
of the smooth-cane double-bearing sort (which ge-
nerally bears a second crop in autumn, and will in
fine seasons continue bearing from Fune to Novem-
ber); but, if the large Antwerp, the shoots should
be left five or six feet long.

Raspberries will continue in bearing five or six
years; by which time there should be a fresh planta-
tion to succeed them. ‘The young plants will bear
some fruit the first year, and come into full bearing
the second year after planting. Jf suffered to remain
more than five or six years on the same ground, they
will degenerate and bear small fruit. Leave not
above eight or ten of the strongest shoots, rubbing
off or pulling up all the superfluous ones ; and keep
the ground well hoed and clear of weeds between
the rows.

MULBERRIES.

MANY old Mulberry-trees are standing at this
day about ancient monasteries and abbeys; from
whence it is probable they had been introduced be-
fore the dissolution of those houses. It is said, they

64 )

were first introduced into England in 1596. But
if so, the opinion of the Duke of Northumberland
must be erroneous, ‘when he said the four Mulberry-
trees at Sion-house were above 300 years old: and
Gerard says, in his history of plants, that in 1597
Mulberry-trees then grew in sundry gardens in Eng-
land.

There is none worth cultivating for fruit in Enge
land, but the common Black Mulberry-tree, the
fruit whereof is very wholesome; and the Red or
Virginian Mulberry. :

Mulberries are raised in England from seed, or
from cuttings and /ayers. The best bearing branches
of old trees are to be chosen for cuttings and layers.
Some of their branches bearing only atkins, and
trees from them will yield fruit. From layers, they
will generally take root sufficiently the first year to
bear separating from the parent tree; and should
then be planted in a nursery, and trained up with
single stems. In four years they are fit to plant out
to remain. Give them distance, that the sun and
air may have full influence on them; the fruit, other-
wise, being apt to turn mouldy. Also shelter them,
in England, from east, north and west winds.

{ 65 )

But, Mr. Forsyth says, the best way to raise them
is from former year’s shoots, having one joint of the
two years’ wood. Plant them out in autumn, if fine
weather, or in March, in rows nine inches apart,
and at two inches distance in the rows, leaving only
two or three buds above ground: mulch the ground
with leaves or dung well rotted, to keep it moist,
and the plants will require little watering. If well
thriven, the next year they may be transplanted in-
to a nursery, and treated as directed for layers.
Whilst they remain in the nursery they should be
transplanted every three or four years. Plant the
trees where they will drop the finest of their fruit on
grass ; when dropping on dug ground, the fruit
would be lost.

Their best soil is a rich, light, and deep earth.
The fruit is produced on the young wood; _there-
fore only cut out such branches as cross others, and
that are decayed or broken by accident ; at the same
time apply the composition. If, however, the heads
become too full of wood, they must be thinned, for
giving larger and better flavored fruit where the
heads are thin of wood.

( 66 )

Mr. Forsyth found many Mulberry-trees ina very
decayed state, and the trunks quite hollow; on which
he tried the composition, cutting out all the dead
wood and cankery parts of some, and. heading down
others that were stunted and sickly. After these
operations, they put forth vigorous. branches, and
bore excellent crops of fruit, more than double the
size of that which they produced in their former
state.

‘Vhose, he says, who have old decayed Mulberry-
trees, should treat them in the same manner; but
such as are very much decayed should be headed
down ; this will throw them into a healthy, bearing
state, and in two or three years they will produce
plenty of fine fruit.

As old Mulberry-trees, Mr. I’. says, produce not
only a greater quantity of fruit, but also much larger
and of a finer flavor than young ones, it is well
worth while to take some pains to repair the injuries
which they may have sustained by accidents or age.

' This pleasant and valuable fruit, he says, is but
little cultivated in England.

( 67 )
THE ALMOND.

THE following are the sorts propagated in Eng-
land, for ornament and use :—The tender-shell’d
almond; the sweet almond ; the common or bitter
almond ; the sweet Jordan almond ; the hard shell’d

almond; the dwarf, and the double-flowering al-
monds.

They are propagated by budding them on plum,
almond, or peach-stocks. ‘The next spring, train
them for standards, or let them grow for half stand-
ards: but the common way is to bud them as high
as it is wished the stem should be; and the second
year after they may be planted out for good. ‘Trans-
plant into a dry soil in October, when the leaves be-
gin to decay: ifinto wet ground, February is the
season. Budded on plumstocks, they thrive best
in a wet soil; and on almond and peach stocks ina
dry. They require nearly the same management in
pruning as the standard apricot.

Plant them, Mr. Forsyth says, always in a shel-
tered place, facing the south. If planted as dwar/s,
they may be covered with poles stuck into the
eround, thatching overZthe tops of the trees with

( 68 )

fern or other /ight covering, to prevent the blossoms
being killed by the frost in February and March.

After the fruit is set and the leaves so far out as
to cover it, if fine weather, the covering may be re-
moved in the latter end of April or early in May.

They are sometimes planted on walls, and some-
times on espaliers.

Preserve them in dry sand or bran; but they
should be first thoroughly dried on shelves or boards
in an airy place before they are put into sand or
bran ; otherwise they will become mouldy.

CHESNUTS.

THE sorts mostly cultivated in England, Mr.
Forsyth says, are the Spanish Chesnuts, which run
into great varieties when raised from seed ; and the
American sort, called Chinguapin, for variety.

The Spanish Chesnuts are very fine trees, and
well worth cultivating, both for use and ornament.
The zimber isreckoned equal to oak, and for casks

fe

( 69 )

\

superior to it; for when seasoned it 1s not so liable
to shrink or swell as oak. ‘They have a noble ap-
pearance, and so are adapted to parks. |

Propagate them from seed gathered when tho-

‘roughly ripe, about the end of October.—Let them

spontaneously open and drop from the trees, to be
picked up in the morning. All that fall in the husk
should be thrown in a heap in a shed, to remain
three or four weeks to ripen. Then pick out the
best, dry them on mats or cloths in a sunny situa-
tion. They are then laid up on shelves or a dry
floor, turning them frequently. If some are dried
in an oven after bread is drawn, and then packed in
boxes or jars with quite dry sand, they will, he says,
keep plump and good. If put in the oven when too
hot, they will shrivel. Sow in beds cf light earth
in Movember ; the drills being nine inches apart and
three deep : the nuts to be an inch apart in the rows,
with the points upwards : cover with mould, and pat
it down with the head of the rake. The beds four
or five feet wide, raised a little in the middle to let
off rain. If it appears the seeds are attacked in the
ground by mice, cover the beds with slates, brick,

or stone, till the nuts begin to spring : then off with

the stone covering. Ifthe winter sets in severely,

(\) aa

cover the beds with rotten dung, leaves, or old tan,
before laying on the pavement.—If the autumn be
wet, don’t sow till February, or March, early.

Hoe between the nuts in the rows. The summer
proving dry, water them once or twice aweek. By
October, or the following spring, they may be put
into beds, in rows a foot apart, and four inches ‘in
the row, to remain two years longer; carefully

trimming all the side shoots, leaving only one
straight stem.

When planied out for good, let it rather be in au-
tumn; they are to stand till the next spring twelve-
month, and then are headed down to two eyes above
ground, cutting near as may be to an eye, and sloping
to the north, that the shoot which is thrown out
may cover the stem in the first season, which it will
do, and grow six or seven feet.—If they are not
headed down in this manner, they will never be
sraright, handsome trees. Joung trees must not be
headed down immediately after tr ansplanting. They
ought to be well rooted before that operation is per-
formed : and it is to be observed, that the larger the
stems are when headed, the stronger and more luxu-
rient will the shoots be.

By
WALNUTS.

THOSE commonly cultivated in England are
varieties from the common walnut, viz.—The
double, the large, the French, the thin-skinned, and
the /ate.

They are best raised from the nut, gathered full
ripe. The zhin-shelled are preferred for this pur-
pose. When ripe, let them remain till they begin
to drop off of themselves : shaking the tree will then
bring them down. Beating with poles injures the
tree much, by breaking the young shoots. They
will be fit to transplant the first autumn after sow-
ing, if they have thriven well—if not, let them con-
tinue another year.—Bed them out in the manner
directed for Chesnuts ; transplanting every second
or third year, until planted out for good. This
causes their throwing out jie Aorizontal roots, and
bring them to a dJearing state much sooner than
when they make deep tap-roots.

Train them up with fine single stems to seven feet
high, before they are suffered to form heads; the
branches will also be out of the reach of cattle. The
time of transplanting them out, depends on their

(72a)

progress in the nursery: they must remain there
till they have grown to a tolerable size, and to the
height just mentioned as proper for standards.

The ground is to be well plowed or trenched ; and
the trees to be planted, at first, in rows six feet apart,
and the same distance from tree to tree in the rows,
m quincunx order ; and thus remain until they come
into bearing. After making choice of the best
fruit-trees, the other trees may be planted for tim-
ber, or made use of in stakes or any other way.
The bearing trees must be thinned as they increase
in size, till they are at the proper distance for full-
grown trees, which may be 24 to 48 fect, accord-
ing to the richness of soil and progress in the trees’
growth.

In trimming stems of Walnut-trees, cut off the
shoots and small branches close to the bole ; and in
lopping, cutting out cross branches, or such as are
damaged by winds and accidents, always cut at a
Sork or eye ; otherwise a part of the branch will die
and injure the tree. But be it a part or the whole
cut off, the composition is to be immediately applied.

(67s)

Walnuts thrive best in a deep, rich soil. They
are well worth cultivating: the yearly value ofthe
fruit being very considerable. ‘There is a great
deal made by thinning the nuts for pickling, for
home and foreign markets. At Beddington, about
50 Walnut-trees, and but half of them full bear-
ers, have been let at £30. £40. and £50. according
to the crop: andthe renter is thought to clear
£50. by the bargain.

The leaves of Walnuts steeped in boiling wa-
ter, and that infusion mixed with lime-water, soap-
suds and urine, is very efficacious in destroying
slugs and worms 7 the ground, and insects 07 trees.

W alnuts for keeping should drop of themselves,
and afterwards be laid in an open airy place till
they are thoroughly dried: then pack them in jars,
boxes, or casks, with fine clear sand, well dried
in the sun, in an oven, or before the fire, in layers
of sand and walnuts alternately ; setthem in a dry
place, but not where it is too hot. They so are
kept tillthe end of 4pril. If they ever become
shrivelled steep them in milk and water, six or
¢ight hours,

Cena)

GRAFTING AND BUDDING:

ON USING COMPOSITION INSTEAD OF GRAFTING-CLAY.

MR. FORSYTH gives directions for render-
ing grafting plain and easy to those who have not
been regularly instructed in the art from general
practice ; and he adds a method followed by him
for some years; and which, he thinks, will be

found an improvement.

The shoots or cions used in grafting, called also
grafts, are to be chosen with observing the follow-
ing directions carefully :—Ist. That they are
shoots of the former year. 2dly. Always take -
them from healthy, fruitful trees. If they be
sickly trees, the grafts often partake of the distem-
per ; and if taken from young luxuriant trees, they
may continue to produce luxuriant shoots, but are
seldom so productive as those taken from fruitful
trees, whose shoots are more compact, and the
joints closer together. S3dly. Prefer those grafts
taken from the lateral or horizontal branches, to
those of the strong perpendicular shoots.

( 75 )

These grafts should be cut off from the trees
before their buds begin to swell ; which generally
is three or four weeks before the season for graft.
ing’: therefore when they are cut off, lay them in
the ground with the cut downwards, burying them.
half their length, and covering their tops with dry
litter, for preventing their drying. If a small
joint of the former year’s wood be cut off with
the cion, it will preserve it the better ; and when
they are grafted, this may be cut off, for at the
same time the cions must be cut to a proper length
before they are inserted in the stocks ; but till then
the shoots should remain of the full length, as
taken from the trees. If these cions are to be
carried far, their ends ought to be put in a lump of
clay, and wrap them up in moss, which preserves
them fresh a monthor longer; but these should
be cut from the trees earlier than what are to be
erafted near where the trees grow.

Next of the stock, or trees intended to be graft-
ed: these are either old trees growing where they
are to remain, whose fruit is intended to be
changed, or young trees raised in the nursery for
a supply to the garden. In the former, there is no
other choice than of the branches, such as are

(96)

young, healthy, well situated, and have smooth
- bark: if these grow against walls or espaliers,
there should be grafted six, eight or ten branches,
as is the size of the trees by which they will be
sooner furnished with branches again, than wher
a less number of cions are put in ; but in standard
trees, four, or at most six cions will be sufficient.

In the choice of young stocks for grafting, prefer
those raised from seeds, and that have been once
or twice transplanted.

Next to these, the stocks raised from cuttings
or layers. Suckers from the roots of other trees
should always be rejected.

Having directed the choice of cions and stocks,
| he then speaks of the operation, and points out the
following tools, viz.

Ist. A neat small hand-saw for cutting off the
heads of large stocks.

2. A good strong knife, with a thick back, to
make clefts in the stocks.

3. A sharp pen-knife, or budding-knife, to cut
the grafts.

A, A grafting chisel and a small mallet.

5. Bass strings or woollen yarn, to tie grafts
with ; and such other instruments and materials
as may be found necessary.

6. A quantity of clay, prepared a month before
wanted, and kept turned and mixed like morter
every other day: this is to be made thus—

e
>

Get a quantity of strong, fat loam: take new
stone-horse dung, and break it in among the loam ;
cut a little straw or hay very small and mix
amongst it, for making the loam hold together
better ; and if there be a quantity of salt added,
the clay will be prevented from dividing in dry
weather ; stir these well together, putting water
to them as in making morter. It should be hol-
lowed like a dish, filled with water, and kept eve-
ry other day stirred: but let it not be exposed to

frost or drying winds ; and the oftener stirred the
better.

( 7»)

Of late years, says Mr. F. some persons have
made use of another composition for grafting,
which keeps out the air better than clay, It is
composed of turpentine, bees-wax and rosin, melt-
ed together; when of a proper consistence it is
put on the stock, round the graft, as the clay usual-
ly is applied. If but a quarter inch thick, :itkeeps
out the air better than the clay; and as cold will
harden this, there is no danger of its being hurt by ©
frost, which is apt to cause the clay to cleave, and
sometimes to fall off; and when the deat of the
summer comes on, this mixture will melt and fall
off without trouble. In using this, there should
be a tin pot, with conveniency to keep a very gen-
tle fire with small coal; otherwise the cold will
soon condense the mixture: but be careful not to
apply it too hot, lest the graft be injured. A per-
gon alittle accustomed to this composition will ap-
ply it very fast 5; and it is much easier for him to
work with than clay, especially if the season is
cold.

There are several ways of grafting, but there
are four principal ones, [see pl. XI.] Perhapsthe
common whip-grafting alone might suffice for the
farmer and country gardeners’ purposes in grafting:

et

( 79 )

1. Grafting in the rind, or shoulder grafting, or
srown grafting ; proper only for large trees : per-
formed the end of March or early in April.

2. Cleft-grafting, or stock, or slit-grafting : in-
tended for lesser stocks, one or two, or more inches
diameter: in February or March,

3. Whip-grafiing, or tongue-grafting ; proper
for small stocks, of one inch, half an inch, or less
diameter: ‘‘It is the most effectual of any, and is

the most in use.”

4. Grafting by approach, or ablactation. This
is practised when the stock to be grafted on, and
the tree from which the graft is taken, stand so near
each other that they may be joined; and should
be performed in pril. It also is called the
Inarching method, and is chiefly used for Fas-
mines, Oranges, and other tender exotics.

For the several methods, in general, see the
plate XI. But the common method of whip-graft-
ing will suffice for the farmer’s and country garden-
er’s purposes.-—It is thus performed by cutting off
the head of the stock sloping ; then make a notch

( 3 9

in the slope towards the upper part downward, 4
little more than half an inch deep to receive the
cion, which must be cut with a slope upward,
and a slit made in this slope like a tongue, which
tongue must be inserted into the slit made in the
slope of the stock, andthe cion is placed on one
side of the stock, so that the two rinds of both
cion and stock may be equal and join together ex-
actly: then a ligature of bass fastens the cion so
that it may be easily displaced; after which it is
clayed over, asin former instances.

Grafting in the 4th method may, however, be
proper to practice sometimes, as the walnut, fig,
mulberry, and certain other exotics, cannot be
prafted with effect in any other method, especially
evergreens: but then the trees are always weakly.

In a long continuance of dry weather, the grafts
frequently fail of taking. It is therefore best to
graft in moist giving weather.

It is better to use the composition on many ac-
counts. Rubbing some ofit into the incision pre-
vents canker, and in applying round the graft a
much less quantity will suffice than of the clay.

(81 )

It need not be more than three inches round in
grafting small stems or shoots, and in proportion for
what are larger: the composition will keep the cion
moist, and will not crack and fall off in dry weather
as clay will. This composition used in grafting
should be made to work easily with a hand or knife,
rather softer than grafting-clay commonly is.

Grafting or budding should be performed near
as may be to the upper side. Insert the czon or bud
at the joint a little above the cross shoot.

Budding is best learned how to be effectually per-
formed dy actual instruction, seeing it done in expe-
rience : which in every neighbourhood may be ob-
tained. In three or four weeks it may be seen what
buds have taken: the shrivelled and black are dead.
Those that remain plump are to have their bandages
then loosened, to prevent pinching the stock and
kill the bud.—The March following cut off the
stock three inches above the bud, sloping it.

( a)
OF A GARDEN. |

MR. FORSYTH recommends that the garden
be on a gentile declivity towards the south, a little
eastwardly inclined. If in a bottom, the wind has
the less effect on it ; but then damps and fogs will be
prejudicial to the fruit and herbage. _ If too high si-
tuated, the fury of the wimds will damage the
branches, blossoms and fruit. It should be well
sheltered from the north and east, to prevent blight-
ing winds affecting plants ; and also from the west-

erly winds, hurtful to gardens in spring or summer
months.

The best shelter of them is from gentle rising
hills and plantations of forest-trees, at due distances
not to shade the garden; giving a free passage of

sun and air. Fruit-trees, in shrubberies, he recom-
mends to be intermixed.

In laying out a new garden, he says, choose a
good soil, the deeper the better, of a mellow, pliable
nature, moderately dry in quality. If it has an w-
even surface, do not be persuaded to level it. The
best soil is a rich mellow loam; the worst a stiff
heavy clay. <A light sand is alsounfit. Whenever

( 83 )

horse dung is applied, it is first to be perfectly rot-
ted ; it otherwise will burn up the crop.

The form he would have in preference, is an ob-
long or square, if at liberty ; and the size from one
acre to six or cight within the wall, according to de-
mand for vegetables in the family. Brick wallis pre-
ferable to stone, and ought to be 10 to 12 feet high:
but if there be a plenty of wa//ing or ground sufh-
cient to admit it, he would prefer a wall of ten feet
high, to those higher, cing convinced they will be
more convenient. Ifthe ground is to be spared,
surround the garden with a border or slip, 40 to 60
feet wide, or more ; and this, he says, inclose again
with an oak paling, 6 to 8 feet high, with a cheval
de frise. He recommends a cheval de frise to be
thus made: A piece of wood, long as convenient,
about four inches broad, one inch and quarter thick ;
the upper side planed to an edge, sloping from the |
top and centre on each side, like a roof. Draw a
line on each side from end to end about one fourth
of an inch below the upper edge and centre: through
these lines drive twe/ve-penny nails about four inches
distance from each other, so as to come out near the
upper edge on the opposite side. Each nail, he adds,
should be opposite the space between two nails on

( 84 )

the other side. The naii-heads should be sunk if
the wood, and small strips nailed over them: then
drive in tenter-hooks between the nail points, and
nail the whole firmly on the outside of the top of the
paling.

By making 'slips on the outside of the garden wall,
you will have ground for gooseberries, currants,
strawberries, &c. cucumbers or melons: and both
sides the wall may be planted.

The new garden should be ploughed or dug three
or four times before any thing be planted in it.

It is a convenience that a garden lies near a river
or brook; from these conduct the water by drains
or pipes. If the garden is too high for distributing
the water in those ways, and it is near a public road,
and on a declivity, make a drain or cut from the road,
for carrying the water of it in ray weather to a
large cistern or tank in the upper part of the garden.
The best time is the nzgt for turning on the water
into the garden. The pipes, cocks, &c. for facili-
tating it will seem a considerable expence at first
but they repay it by saving ¢ime which would be
spent in pumping and carrying water. If pumped

( 88 )

from a deep well, it should be into a large reservoir,
in which it should be exposed to sum and air some
days.

The middle walks, he says, should be seven feet
wie, enough for a cart to pass; the others three |
or four feet broad, with a border on each side, 5 or
6 feet wide at least between the walk and the /ruzt-
trees. In kitchen gardens, walks are generally gra-
velled, seldom in turf; frequent wheeling and tread-
ine soon destroying the grass: but a binding sand
makes good walks, easily kept: for when mss oF
weeds begin to grow, they may be cleaned with a
horse hoe, or scuffled over with a Dutch hoe, in dry
weather, raking it a day or two after; but sea-coal
ashes make the best kitchen garden walks, easier
kept than others, and firm and dry: cleaner than
sand, especially after a frost. Bottoms of walks are
filled with brick rubbish, chippings of stones, or
gravel and stones. There sometimes will be under-
ground drains to make.

When the soil is wet and stiff, subject to detain
moisture, under-ground drains must carry off the
water; making the main drain under the wa/h, to
receive and carry off the water under the quarters.

~

(4

Good, well-flavored fruit can never be produced,
unless draining, where the soil lies wet, be practised ;
and kitchen plants will also be very defective with- ~
out that attention.

Borders under the walls, inside, should be 10 to
20 feet wide, as is the size of the garden, for giv-
ing free passage to the roots of the trees to spread.
A foot path should be two and a half foot from the
wall, for greater ease in nailing trees, gathering
fruit, &c. This wa/k should be two to two and a
half feet wide (to admit a barrow or barrow-engine
in watering the trees), and covered with sand, or
coal-ashes better, about 2 or 3 inches thick, without
rubbish or gravel below. On these dorders may be
early or late crops ; but avoid to plant any deep-root-
ting plants, such as cakbages, beans, peas, (except
peas for the early frames), as they would be very
hurtful to the trees.

Melons are best worked in brick-pits, coped with
stone or oak, 12 feet wide and two and a half deep:
the /ength according to the number of frames to be
worked. Size of lights for early melons, 5 feet
long, 3 broad :—for others they require to be 6 feet
long, and four broad. The former should be four,

(, 8%.)

and the latter three light boxes.—For the pits a
nine-inch wall wiil be suilicient.

There should, he says, be a walk between the
ridges, 6 or 7 feet broad, sufficient to amit a cart
to carry dung ; much more expeditious than wheel-
ing. ‘The wa/k should be made up as high as the
coping, and sio,ing gently towards each end; the

bottom should be filled up and covered as before di-
rected.

A loose drain should be made along the middle
of the bottom of the pzt, to carry off wet and oozing

of the dung to a cistern or tank made on pur).ose
to receive it.

When a garden is planted and finished, says Mr.
Forsyth, it will be convenient to have a p/an of it,
with the name of each tree inserted in its proper
place.

Walls of kitchen gardens, from ten to fourteen feet
high, should have the foundation two or two and a
a halfbricks thick ; the off-set not above one course
higher than the level of the border: the wall then
te set-off a brick and a half thick. Piers should

( 88 )

strengthen the walls, 40 to 60 feet apart ; to project
half a brick beyond the wall. If the coping is of
wood, it answers well for hanging nets to against

thefts | of birds.

He repeats the superiority of bricks over stene
walls, favoring fruits better in ripening. Whena
_ kitchen garden contains four acres, it may be inter-
sected by two or more cross walls ;_ which greatly
augments the quantity of fruit ; warms and shelters
the garden from high winds.

ORCHARDS.

WHERE a large supply of fruit is wanted, Mr.
Forsyth says, Orchards ave appropriated to the
growth of standard fruit-trees only; and generally
consist of apple-trees, pear-trees, plum-trees and
cherry-trees ; but a complete Orchard ought also
to have quinces, medlars, mulberries, services, fil-
beris, Spanish nuts, and barberries ; as also walnuts
and chsenuts. These last would break high winds,
and he would prefer to plant them along the bounda-
ry of the Orchard. In choosing the trees, admit
none but with good roots, fair clean stems, and pro-
per heads.

( 89 )

In selecting pears and apples let the assortment
range in succession, for supply of the table during
the whcle year. A,very few of the summer sorts
will suffice ;—more of the autumn ;—still more of
the wznter will be called for. On the winter sorts
the dependence is from Yanuary to Fuly.—The me-
thod of preserviug them, post.

What has been said of the situation and soil of a
Garden, also applies to Orchards—that they be ra-
ther elevated than low. On a gentle declivity, open
to the south and south-east. Also they should be
well sheltered from the eastern, northerly and west-
ern winds: but see of Gardens, in its place. Such
as walnut and chesnut-trees are advantageously placed
on the exterior of the Orchard. The size of an
Orchard in the cyder-making counties of England
may be one to twenty acres, or more. A loamy
soil is best: shingly and gravelly soils disagree with
fruit-trees, unless intermixed with a/oam. Orchards
should be dunged once in two or three years. :

He recommends washing the Orchard trees an-
nually in February or March, with the following
mix‘ure, to destroy eggs of insects, and prevent
moss from growing. Mix fresh cow-dung with

N

( 90 )

urine and soap-suds ; and with the mixture wash
over the stems and branches of trees, as you would
your room with whitewash ; cutting off the cankery
parts and scrape off the moss, before the washing.
In the course of the summer there will be a fine new
bark coming on. Pare off all old canker. When
necessary to take off all the outer bark, the stem, &c.
~ are to be covered with the composition and powder,
patting it gently down, as in the case when large
limbs are cut off.

- Repeating the above wash in autumn, after fall
of the leaf, will destroy the eggs of many insects,
that hatch in autumn and winter. ‘This washing is
found of great service to all fruit and forest trees.

GATHERING APPLES AND PEARS,

TIME AND MANNER THEREOF.—MANAGEMENT
OF THE FRUIT-ROOM, &c.

NEVER beat or shake apples down—hand-pick
all, from standing on steps for the purpose.—They
should be light, and so contrived that the ladder may
be disengaged from the back at pleasure ; fastening

( gt )

together by a bolt at top. At top should be a broad
step to stand on, with room for the basket holding
the fruit. Have, in the beginning together, hand-
baskets of different sizes, and also large baskets or
hampers, and wheel-barrows. At the bottoms of
the large baskets and hampers, perfectly dry short
fine grass from summer mowings, kept clean and

dry for the purpose. .

He observes to gather the fruit, as a mark of its
“ripeness, when it begins to fall, (not wind-falls, or
from the caterpillar). Ifthe fruit comes off with-
out any force used, it is presumed to be ripe enough.
But sickness, &c. of the trees may make it seem
riper than in fact it is. All fruit will shrivel, he
says, that is gathered before it is ripe.

If the fruit be in the least bruised it will not keep ;
therefore the person on the steps picks it carefully,
and gently lays it in the basket: and the small
baskets are to be gently emptied into the large.

When the fruit begins to fall of itself, cover the
ground under the tree with soft grass mowings,
pease-haulm, or oat or barley straw, quite dry. This
that drops of itself, lay up separate from, and use it
before, that which is Jand-picked.

( 92 )

. Tn the fruit-room lay dry soft grass on the floor :
lay the fruit gently from the baskets in heaps on the
grass. To sweat the fruit, cover it 2 or 3 inches
thick on the top with some of the grass ; the heaps
may be two to three feet high, ‘They lie in heaps
two weeks; then open and turn them over, wiping
each apple or pear with a dry cloth; to be frequent-
ly dried during the process. The heaps now re-
main 8 or 10 days covered as before, for throwing
off the watery crudities. Then wépe the fruit one
by one.

~ Gather the fruit in dry weather, and when the~

dew is off; nor is it to be gathered in the evening
after the dew has begun to fall. Air should be some-
times admitted for carrying off the sweat.

‘The most perfect way of keeping, as used in
England, is to pack it in glazed earthen jars, sepa-
rately wrapping pears and apples in soft paper. Put
dried bran in the jar, then a layer of fruit; then a
little more bran; and so on alternately. When
full, gently shake the jar ; fill up with bran and paper
at top of all. Cover with bladder to perfectly ex-
clude accession of air. Fit on the cover of the jar ;
and it is best kept in a room where a fire may be,
in wet or damp weather.

CANKER AND GUM.

CANKER is a disease which occasions the bark
of trees'to grow rough and scabby ; and turns the
wood affected to a rusty, brown colour. It will kill
the tree if not stopt.

The Canker may arise, on apple-trees, from inju-
-dicious pruning, from the /vots¢alks of the fruit be-
ing left on the trees, ‘and from injuries in applying
Tadders in gathering the fruit.—Another cause, very
wet autumms, which prevents the young wood from
ripening, anda ard frost setting im after it, l/s the
young shoots. These are not to be left on the tree.
Lirds and insects destroying the buds, also give the

. Canker.

Dead shoots \eft on the tree through summer,
bring on Canker. These are to be cut off in the
end of Apri or early in May. He advises to cut
two or three buds, or even more, below the appa-
rently diseased part : cut down till the brown colour

in the shoot disappears, and nothing but sound
white wood remains.

( 4 )

All the diseased parts of the bark must be pared ‘

off. The inner white bark is frequently infected :
this also must be cut away till no infection appears
toremain. The infection in the inner bark appears
like cots made with a pen; all whereof is to be cut
out clean. Wherever Gum oozes, be assured the
Canker is not quite eradicated.

When the trunk is become hollow, cut the loose
rotten part clean out, till you come to the sound
wood, and round the edges of the hollow part. Then
apply the composition in a liquid state, with a pain-

ter’s brush : then shake some of the powder of wood-

ashes and burnt bones over the composition, and pat
it gently down with the hand. See of sitesi os and
laying on of the composition.

When the decay is great, the ground is to be open-
ed, the roots examined, and the rotten parts to be

cut away : then make up a mass of the composition, -

mixed with some clay; fill the hollow with it, to
within about two inches of the surface of the ground,
treading it, or pressing it with the hand close as
possible, for preventing wet from penetrating to the
roots, and leave the surface of the composition
sloping from the tree towards the outside of the
border, &c. ;

ie

*

( 98 )

The Gum is a kind of gangrene incident to /ruit-
rees of the stone kind; and arises from injudicious
pruning, from bruises, or injuries received in the
wood or bark. The Gum is to be cut out perfect-
ly clean; and grubs must be sought for, and they
are to be cut out before the composition is applied.

OF MIL-DEW, HONEY-DEW, AND
BLIGHTS.

MR. FORSYTH, in general, speaks in the strain
of others writing on these subjects, who have little
“more than guessed at the nature of these disorders :
the most likely surmise of Mil-dew, &c. seems to
be what he quotes from Mr. Segar; where he says,
that Mz/-dew is of a very sharp corrosive nature,
and by its acrimony hinders the circulation of the
nutritious sap.

Mr. Forsyth says, when danger is apprehended,
wash or sprinkle the trees well with urine and lime-
water mixed; and when the young and tender
shoots are much infected, wash them well with a
woollen cloth dipped in the mixture following, to
the clearing them of all ehitinous matter, that their

( 9% }

respiration and perspiration may not be obstructed :
Take tobacco a pound, sulphur two pounds, un-
slacked lime a peck, and a pound of elder buds: on
these pour ten gallons boiling water—cover it close,
to stand till cold: then add cold water, as much as
will filla hogshead. After standing a few days to
settle, take off the scum, and it is fit for use.

The Honey-dew he directs to be treated in the
same manner: and he cautions that trees be washed
or watered early enough in the day to dry before
the cold air of the night arrives ; nor should it be
applied whilst the sun shines very hot.
*

Blights, he says, sometimes destroy the whole
tree; but oftener the leaves and blossoms only.
Wash, he adds, with soap-suds andurine; the sooner
the better ; and even with a woollen cloth dipped in
the same liquid as above directed for mil-dew.

OF INSECTS.
UNDER the head of Insects, Mr. Forsyth gives

along list of them; concerning which, the imagi-

nation becemes tired ; and it is tedious, and too ge-

( 97)

nerally unsatisfactory. Of the Aphis ; he says
the Aphides or Plant-lice are a numerous tribe,
amounting to 75 species. Of the carus there
are 82 species. Moisture, he thinks, best de-
stroys them, as iz hot-houses it does many other
insects. The Acarus (or Red Spider) also de-
stroy or much injure melons in dry weather.
There are other species of 160 sorts.

It would be heavy work to enumerate those
plagues, when the accounts of them and the me-
thods proposed for reducing them are not general-
ly satisfactory for answering the views of the hus-
bandman therein. ‘The general applications to
the trees and plants are powders of ashes and lime
mixed and strewed on them—also lime-water, strew-
ed through the tube and its head, of a water en-
gine that forces.—Moreover, 77 hot-housés, mois-
ture destroys some sorts—Water alone is applied
often in hot-houses. Melons he directs to be exe
amined, and when the leayes curl and crack in the
middle, the Acarus or RedSpider may be presumed
to have effected the injury, although as yet they
may not be visible tothe eye. Inthis state of the
melons, in fine warm sunny weather, water them
all over the leaves from a watering-pot with a

0

°

( 98 )

rosé ; or an engine, about six in the morning, and
about eight o’clock shade them with mats, if the
sun shines, and shut the frames close down till
eleven: then admit alittle air, the mats remaining
till three in the afternoon; then take them off.
Endeavour to water the under side of the leaves,
and the vines may be cautiously turned partly for
the purpose. In cold frosty weather do not sprin-
kle the plants.

A wash of urize and soap-suds accumulated and
stored in winter, he largely uses to his trees dis-
tempered with insects, caterpillars or vermin ;
and in summer the mixture is lowered with water.
It kills also s/ugs near the roots of trees, Urine |
and suds are saved in tubs in winter for the sum-
mer’s use.

On Forest-Trees his treatise is important ; but
it is here prolix ; and being a subject not yet scarce
and striking to the attention of the American peo-
ple, this is for the present here omitted.

(393K)

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

DISEASES, DEFECTS AND INJURIES OF FRUIT, AND
FRUIT-TREES.

MR. FORSYTH, in thirty years practice in
cultivating, pruning, and keeping garden fruit-
trees, observed that from atural causes, acci-
dents, and unskilful management, they were sub-
ject to zmjurics of various kinds, which always di-
minished their fertility, and frequently rendered
them wholly unproductive.

He thereupon offers to disclose his practice and
management with his composition, formerly appli-
ed in the manner of a plaster, but now in a /igquid
state, and laidon with a painter’s brush. He im-
putes to it a soft and healing nature ; an absorbent
and adhesive quality ; and that by resisting the force
of washing rains, the contraction of mipping frosts,
and the effects of a warm sun or drying winds, it
excludes the pernicious influence of a changeable
atmosphere.

( 100 )

The discovery of it, he adds, is the result of
much reflection and study, during a long course
of years, and of a great variety of experiments,
made at a very considerable expence, to ascertain
the efficacious powers of the application. ‘* Nor
shall [ hesitate a moment to declare my firm be-
lief, that wherever it shall be properly applied by
the proprietors of gardens or orchards, and woods,
it will be productive of all the advantage that can
be derived from restoring as well as preserving
vigour and fertility in all kinds of fruit-trees ; as
also from preventing decay, and promoting health
and sound timber in every species of forest-trees.”

Mr. Forsyth’s Directions for making a Comrost-
T10N for curing diseases, defects and injuries in all
kinds of Fruit and Forest-trees—and the method

of preparing trees and laying on the Composition.

“*’Take one bushel of fresh cow-dung, half a
*‘ bushel of lime rubbish of old buildings (that
‘¢ from the ceilings of rooms is preferable), halfa
*¢ bushel of wood-ashes, and asixteenth part ofa
‘6 bushel of pit or river samd : the three last articles
*¢ are to be sifted fine before they are mixed ; then

( 101 )

** work them well together with a spade, and af-
*¢ terwards with a wooden beater, until the stuff
** is very smooth, like fine plaster used for the
** ceilings of rooms.
a

‘*¢ The Composition being thus made, caremust
‘* be taken to prepare the tree properly for its ap-
‘€ plication, by cutting away all the dead, decayed
‘¢ and injured parts, till you come to the fresh,
** sound wood, leaving the surface of the wood
‘*¢ very smooth, and rounding off the edges of the
** bark with a draw-knife or other instrument,
© perfectly smooth, which must be particularly
‘¢ attended to; then lay on the plaster about one
*¢ eighth of an inch thick all over the part where
*¢ the wood or bark has been so cut away ; finish-
‘¢ ing off the edges as thin as possible: then take
‘¢ a quantity of dry powder of wood-ashes mixed
*¢ with the sixth part of the same quantity of the
‘¢ ashes of burnt bones ; put it into a tin box, with
** holes inthe top, and shake the powder on the
“¢ surface of the plaster, till the whole is covered
‘** over with it, letting it remain for half an hour
** to absorb the moisture ; then apply more pow-
‘¢ der, rubbing it on gently with the hand, and re-
“¢ peating the application of the powder till the
‘¢ whole plaster becomes a dry smooth surface.

an

o-

~

OC

«¢ All trees cut down near the ground should
have the surface made quite smooth, rounding
‘¢ it off in a small degree, as before mentioned ;
and the dry powder directed to be used after-
wards should have an equal quantity of powder
of alabaster mixed with it, in order the better
to resist the dripping of trees and heavy rains.

‘
“* If any of the Composition be left for a future
occasion, it should be kept in a tub or other ves-
sel, and urine of any kind poured on it, so as
to cover the surface ; otherwise the atmosphere

will greatly hurt the efficacy of the application.

‘6 Where lime rubbish of old buildings cannot
be easily got, take pounded chalk, or common
lime, after having been slacked a month at least.

<¢ As the crowth of the tree will gradually af-
fect the plaster, by raising up its edges next the
bark, care should be taken where that happens
torub it over with the finger when occasion may
require (which is best done when moistened by
‘¢ rain), that the plaster may be kept whole, to
‘¢ prevent the air and wet from penetrating into

66 the wound.”

¢ fan)

** Additional Directions for making and using the

Composition.

‘°'To the foregoing directions for making and
‘¢ applying the composition, it is necessary to add

*“ the following.

‘* As the best way for using the composition is
*“ found, by experience, to be in a liguid state ;
‘“* it must therefore be reduced to the consistence
** of pretty thick paint, by mixing it up with a
“* sufficient quantity of wrine and soap-suds, and
** Jaid on with a painter’s brush. The powder of
** wood ashes and burnt bones is to be applied as
‘¢ before directed, patting it down with the hand.

*¢ When trees are become hollow you must
** scoop out all the rotten, loose and dead parts
‘** of the trunk, till you come to the solid wood,
*¢ leaving the surface fmooth ; then cover the hol-
** low, andevery part where the canker has been
** cut out, cr branches lopped off, with the com-
** position ; and as the edges grow, take care
‘* not to let the new wood come in contact with
“the dead, part cf which it may be sometimes
““ necessary to leave; but cut out the old dead

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( 104 )

wood as the new advances, keeping a hollow
between them, to allow the new wood room to
extend itself, and thereby fill up the cavity,
which it will dointime, so asto make as it were
anewtree. If the cavity be large you may cut
away as much at one operation as will be sufli-
cient forthreeyears. But inthis you are tobe
guided by the size of the wound and other cir-
cumstances. When the new wood, advancing |
from both sides of the wound has almost met,
cut off the bark from both the edges, that the
solid wood may join, which, if properiy ma-
naged, it will do leaving only a slight seam in
the bark. If the tree be very much decayed,
do not cut away all the dead wood at once,
which would weaken the tree tou much, if a
standard, and endanger it being blown down by
the wind. It willtherefore be necessary to leave
part of the dead wood at first, to strengthen the

“tree, and to cut it out by degrees as the new

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wood is formed. If there be any canker, or gum
oozing, the infected parts must be pared off, or
cut out with a proper instrument. When the
stem is very much decayed, and hollow, it will
be necessary to open the ground and examine the
roots ; then proceed as directed for hollow peach

(105 )

‘< trees, [see pl. I]. and V. which shew the manner

‘< of preparing hollow trees, and also the growing
“* of the wood. |

«< Some months before the publication of the Od-
‘* servations on the diseases, 8c. of fruit and forest
“* trees, | had tried the composition in a liquid state,
** but did not think myself warranted to make it
*¢ public until I had experienced its effects through
“‘ the winter. The success answered my most san-
‘* ouine expectations; and I have used it in that
** way ever since. By using the composition in a
** liquid state, mote than three fourths of the time
‘* and labour is saved ; and I find it is not so liable
** to be thrown off as the lips grow, as when laid on
‘* inthe consistence of plaster: It adheres firmly to
‘‘ the naked part of the wound, and yet easily gives
“* way as the new wood and bark advances.”

‘‘ The first time that I tried the composition in a
‘* liquid form was upon an elm which had been
‘* planted about twenty years. It had been very
‘* much bruised by the roller, had several cavities
“in it, and was very much bark-bound besides.
‘“‘ Having prepared the wounds, and applied the
‘* composition with a painter’s brush, I took my

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( 106 )

knife and scarified the tree in four places; [also
shaved off with a drawing-knife all the cankery
outer bark, and covered the whole tree with the
composition, shaking the powder of wood-ashes and
burnt bones all over it. A very heavy rain began
in the evening, and continued all night; yet, to
my great surprise, in the morning I| found that
only some of the powder, which had not had time
to dry and incorporate with the composition,
was washed off. I now repeated the powder,
and without any thing more being done to the
tree, the wounds healed up, and the bark was re-
stored so compleatly that three years ago it could
hardly be discovered where the wounds had been.
The scarifications had also disappeared. Some
of the wounds were thirteen inches long, eight
broad, and three deep. Since the time when it
was scarified, the tree has increased ten inches
more in circumference than a healthy tree plant-
ed at the same time with it, about sixteen feet
distant, which was not scarified.”’

mi ( 107 )

BUDDING.

THIS is practised upon al// sorts of stone fruit in
particular ; such as peaches, nectarines, cherries,
plums, &c. also oranges and jasmines ; and is pre-
ferable to any sort of grafting for most kinds of fruit.

Provide a sharp pen-knife with flat baft for rais-
ing the bark of the stock to admit the dud, and some
sound dass mat soaked in water. ‘The cuttings be-
ing taken off from the trees, choose a smooth part of
the stock, 5 or 6 inches above the surface of the
eround, if designed for dwarfs, and for half stand-
. ards at three feet; but for standards, bud six or more
feet above the ground: then cut horizontally across
the rind of the stock ; and from the mzddle of that
cut make a s/it downwards about two inches long,
forming a T: be careful not to cut too deep and
wound the stock. Having cut off the leaf from the
bud, leaving the footstalk remaining, make a cross
cut about half an inch below the eye, and with the
knife slit off the bud with part of the wood to it, in
form of an escutcheon; this done, next with the
knife pull off that part of the wood which was taken
with the bud, observing if the eye of the bud be left

( 1om))

to it or not, (buds that lose the eye in stripping are
good for nothing); then gently Aaving raised the
bark of the stock where the cross incision was made,
with the flat handle of the knife clear off the wood,
thrust the bud therein, placing it smooth between the
rind and the wood of the stock, cutting off any part
of the rind belonging to the bud which may be too
long for the slit made in the stock ; and having thus
exactly fitted the bud to the stock, tie them closely
round with dass mat, beginning at the under part of
the slit, and proceed to the top ; taking care not to
bind round the eye of the bud, but leave it open.

In three or four weeks, you will see which have
taken. The shrivelled and black are dead. The -
fresh and plump are joined; at which time loosen
the bandage, that the stock be not pinched.

In the next March cut off the stock three inches
above the bud; sloping it that water pass off: to
the part above the bud, fasten the shoot proceeding
from the bud. This must continue but one year:
then cut it off close above the bud.

Time of innoculating is the middle of Fune to the
middle of August. The time may be ascertained by

(:(ai03: |.)

trying if the buds will come off well from the wood
or not.

Apricots are the first, and oranges commonly the
last sorts innoculated. Oranges should never be
innoculated before the middle of August. Cloudy
weather is the best: rather avoid the middle of the
day for it. Avoid the erroneous practice of throw-
ing cuttings into water.

All trees of the same genus, which agree in their
flavor and fruit, will take upon each other under
grafting or innoculation : All the zut-bearing trees
on each other, and all the p/um-bearing trees, in-

cluding almond, peach, nectarine, apricot, &c.

Success of experiments on Heading-down, Composi-
tion, &c.

MR. FORSYTH says, that since he published
‘‘ Observations on the diseases, defects and injuries
in Fruit and Forest trees,’’ he has been assidious
in making experiments. A great many Aollow trees
that had little more than the bark remaining sound,
have within a few years been filled up :—Others
that were headed down within a few feet of the

(: AOA)

ground have their stumps now completely covered
by the leading shoot, forming handsome trees ; and
the places where they were headed are only discerned
by a faint cicatrix. ‘There were many such in-
stances. He gives but few accounts of them.

A lime-tree, he says, 18 inches in dine a
whose trunk was decayed and hollow from top to
bottom, to which, after cutting out the decayed
wood, he had applied the composition 16 years ago,
was last year cut down, en purpose to examine the
progress it had made in the interior part, and was
found entirely filled up with new, sound wood, com-
pletely zacorporated with what little old wood re-
mained when he first took it in hand. The body of
this tree he keeps, cut into short lengths, to shew to

others.

An old elm, he adds, the inside totally decayed,
and two large cart loads of rotten wood taken there-
from at different times, has made shoots upwards of
20 feet high in the course of six years. Another
elm, headed twenty feet from the ground, has pro-
duced a shoot 46 feet high, and 5 feet 9 inches in
circumference. —A lime, cut down near the ground,
has now a shoot 20 feet high, which entirely covers

(a):

the stump, forming a fine tree, 21 inches in circum.
ference. —A sycamore, treated in the same manner,
is now 30 feet high, and 26 inches in circumference.
Another is 30 feet high, and 2 feet in circumference.
These, he says, are now jine thriving trees, and the

cicatrices hardly discernable !

A horse-chesnut, headed down, has produced,
from its hollow stump, four fine shoots, one where-
of is cut down, the other three are upwards of thirty
feet high ; and one of them is 26 inches in circum-
ference. ‘Two of the remaining three are to be cut
down, leaving ove to form the body of the tree.

About two and a half feet in length, on one side
of a large diseased elm, which was for some time /eft
to nature, still continued to decay till the composi-
tion was applied : zew wood and bark are now form-

ing.

An elm, entirely hollow, was also headed down.
The new head now spreads 24 feet, and is 18 feet
high. Another large hollow elm, near the last, was
headed down: it afterwards produced a shoot 60
feet high, and three and a half feet in diameter.
There are many other elms, some with wounds 10

( 112 )

feet long and 2 feet broad, now entirely filled up ;
besides many sycamores, oaks, and other forest
trees, all restored to a flourishing state, by having
the dead wood cut out, and the composition applied.
An oak that was headed down six years ago, is re-
presented in pl. XII.

In hollow trees, the rotten and decayed wood must
be cut out at different times, as the new wood comes
in contact with it: but beware not to cut out too
much at once; but leave enough to support the tree
and prevent it from being blown down by high
winds, till the new is strong enough for that pur-
pose : the remainder may then be cut out.

Mr. Aberdeen, gardener, has followed Mr. For-
syth’s method for some time with great success, in
the Aouse and ‘‘ on the natural wall.”

Hearing several years of the very jie and large
crops produced in the forcing houses on Black Heath,
Mr. Forsyth took a journey thither in company
with Mr. Wedgewood, to inquire into the method
pursued there for obtaining these superior crops,
and was candidly told that Mr. Stuart several years
ago had seen Mr. Forsyth’s method used at Ken-

Bec

sington Gardens, and was convinced of its advan-
tages above the old; he adopted it with great
success.

John Wedgewood, Esq. practises in Mr. For-
syth’s method with great success.

Lord Frederick Campbell ‘sent to Mr. Forsyth a
list of 85 fruit-trees that were headed down, and af-
terwards trained and pruned according to Mr. F.—
From a cankery, unfruitful state, ever green with
moss, they are now /ruztful, healthy and flourishing.
—These trees are now proper patterns for others
desirous of giving the composition, and method of
training and pruning recommended by this treatise,
a fair trial.

Successful trials have also been made, of the same,
at the Duke of Dorset’s.

oe

( May

THE GOOD EFFECTS

OF

MR, FORSYTH’S COMPOSITION, IN VARIOUS CLIMATES,

THE Economical Society of St..Petersburgh ex--
presses great satisfaction with the effects of Mr.
Forsyth’s applications of the composition, &c. and
this excellent idea of a Mr. Guthrie to him, appears
well worth our notice—‘‘ That he is happy in ex-
pressing, individually, his satisfaction from Mr. For-
syth’s sagacious application of the chiurgical art to ve-
getation ; and declares that the extirpation of the dis-
eased parts, and the use of an unguent to ward off the
noxious action of the air and humidity, during the ex-
ertions of nature to repair loss of substance, and the
languid circulation of the vegetable juices, appear
highly judicious.”’

In the hot climate of India, and the opposite ex-
treme of the cold of Russia, the composition was in
constant and successful use ; even 400 miles south
of Madras ; and also in the India company’s cinna-
mon plantation: and it was likewise applied with
equal success to the fruit-trees of the country.

Besides these, there are many satisfactory and
wonderful instances of improvement to trees and
fruits by the application of the composition.

HEADING-DOWN.

FOR the information of persons who are but lit-
tle acquainted with practical gardening, Mr. For-

syth gives the following explanation of what is call-
ed Heading-down :

When young trees are planted out from the nurse-
ry as soon as they begin to break in the spring, they
are cut down to three or four eyes, according to their
strength, to furnish them with bearing wood : if this
were not done, they would run up in long naked
branches, and would not produce one quarter of the
fruit which they do when this operation is properly
performed. The same holds good in heading all
kinds of old trees.

An opinion prevails (especially amongst apple-
tree cultivators) that trees never bear well after be-
ing headed-down. It may be so sometimes, when
trees are improperly headed-down, all at once, by

Gs BaD)

giving a sudden check to the sap. But, if beading
were done gradually ; that is, if every other branch
all over the tree were headed at a proper length, cut-
ting as near to those parts where the shoots appear,
_as possible, in February or March, or even as late
as May, in the course of the summer they would
throw out fine long shoots. These should not be
shortened the jist year, unless it be a few to fill up
the head of the tree with bearing wood ; and that
should be in the following spring ; cutting them to
six or eight inches in length, according to ‘their
strength. In the nextspring after the first branches
are headed, the remaining old branches may be cut
out; and these will soon fill the head of the tree with
fine bearing wood. In three years, trees so headed
will produce a much greater quantity of fruit, and
of better guality than they did before the operation
was performed.

fleading-down Orange-trees.

Just as Mr. Forsyth’s manuscript of his Treatise
was going to the press, he was informed by the late
Portuguese Ambassador at London, that on his re-
turn to Portugal he had found the Orange-trees on
the Prince of Brasil’s plantations in a very unhealthy
and decayed state; and applied to Mr. Forsyth for

( 17)

some of the composition, anda copy of his pamphlet
on the diseases, &c. in fruit and forest trees, that he
might make trials of the remedy on the trees of that
country. Mr. Forsyth sent him a cask of the com-
position, with directions for preparing the trees and
laying it on.

He advises, that when it is found necessary to
head-down Orange-trees, they be not cut quite down
to the stem ; but to leave two or three inches of the
branches, some more, some less; always remem-
bering to cut near to a joint, and in such a manner
as to form a handsome head ; and to apply the com-
position immediately. In doing this, however, he
adds, it will be necessary to leave a few young shoots
to draw up the sap. If the trees are infected with
insects, the stems must be washed with soap-suds
and urine, and well scrubbed with a hard brush.

Mr. Forsyth informs us, he always leaves three
different years branches on apple-trees, when the
Jirst shoot, d, is cut off at e, (see the p!. VI. fig. 2.)
It is to be observed, the next shoot, f, will be full
of fruit-buds, if it has not been shortened; when it
begins to grow weak, cut itoff at g. The next cut-
ting must be at i, when the branch h is tired of

Men rie

bearmg. Procced thus all over the tree with care
and attention, and it will soon be perceived the ad-
vantage of this method of pruning above the com-
mon mode; for by it the trees may be kept in a con-
stant state of bearing, which, if left to nature, would
only produce a crop of fruit once in two or three
years. Always remember, when the shoot that has
done bearing is cut off, to apply the composition im-
mediately, and to rub off the shoots where they are
too numerous.

The best time, he says, for pruning apple-trees is
April or May, after the peaches, nectarines and
cherries are pruned.

The small shoots crossing each other should be
cut off; leaving the strongest to fill up the tree and
make a fine handsome head.

The apple-trees chosen from the nursery, as well
as the apricot and peach-trees, should have strong,
straight, and clear stems.

Speaking, asitseems, rather of dwarf trees or
trees in borders, he says, the same directions for
heading must be observed, according to the season

( p.)

and the time of the buds breaking forth, leaving the
number according to the strength ofeach tree ; cut-
ting as close as possible to the top bud, that the
leading shoot may more easily cover the wound;
and constantly observing to rub off all the buds that
come by the side of the leading shoot, which would |
otherwise rol) it of its nourishment and strength,
and so prevent it from making a fine leader. (See
pl. VI. fig. 1.) Remember, he says, also to cut it
annually to the length of from nine to eighteen
inches, according to its strength, till the tree has got
to that height to which you would have it run, and
according to the extent of the ground; which Leight
may be from eight to twelve feet. By these means,
the trees will throw out horizontal branches on eve-

ry side, and soon form handsome heads for dwarfs.

He advises that dwarf-trees be not suffered to run
higher than twelve feet. From eight to twelve is a
convenient height. Ifallowed to run higher, they
will become naked at bottom, the fruit will be liable
to be blown down, and the tops broken by high
winds.

( 1a0h3}

A GREAT LESSON IN RAISING OAKS, &e.
According to Mr. Forsyth:

WHO says} it is a generally received opinion,
that when an oak loses its ¢ap-root in transplanting,
it never produces another. But this he thus refutes. r
He transplanted a bed of oak-plants into a fresh bed,
cutting the tap-roots near to some of the small side
roots or fibres shooting from them.. In the secona
year after, be headed one half of the plants down, and
left the other half to nature. In the first season, those
headed-down made shoots six feet long, and com-
pletely covered the tops of the old stems, leaving
only a faint cicatrix ; and had produced new tap-roots
upwards of two and a half feetlong. One of these
trees he left at the Revenue-office to shew the advan-
tage of transplanting and heading-down young oaks,
when done ina proper manner; of which he also

gives directions for Chesnuts. See p. 70.

By this method of treating the plants, the oaks,
&c. will grow more in one year than in sin when

treated in the common way.

ees 1)

4
.

The other half, not headed down, grow not one
fourth the size of those headed. One of the.
headed-down is eighteen feet high ; and, six inches
from the ground, measures fifteen inches in circum-
ference : at three feet from the ground, ten inches ;
and at six feet, nine and a half inches: when one
of the largest of those mot headed-down, measures
only five and a half feet high, and three and three
quarters inches in circumference, at six inches from
the ground. his is a convincing proof that trazs-
planting ond heading-down oaks is the most success-
ful and advantageous way of treating them ; ani
by it they are sooner out of danger from cattle,
as well as from vermin so frequently injurious

to young trees).

Of Oak-trees, it is further to be observed, from
Mr. Forsyth’s Treatise, that where they had re-
ceived very considerable damage from various ac-
cidents, blows, bruises, cutting deep letters, rnb-
bing off the bark by the ends of rollers, cart-
wheels, and mutilated branches or limbs, a per-
fect cure has been made, and sound timber pro-

duced, through his applications.

vd

Lae

“Nanna
ga

NA ee oS

FRUITS AND AMERICAN GARDENING;

WITH

DESIGNS FOR PROMOTING THE RIPENING OF

FRUITS, AND SECURING THEM AS
FAMILY COMFORTS :

AND FURTHER,

OF ECONOMICAL PRINCIPLES IN BUILDING
FARMERS’ HABITATIONS, &,

BY AN AMERICAN FARMER.

NOTES, ¢3c.

A FARMER is not made by books; but books
may assist a farmer, in giving him information of
successful practices by other farmers in other
countries or places, which he cannot but by books
know, limited in his inquiries to the little occur-
rences of his neighbours. Sooks will entertain a
farmer with conversations on the practices of other
farmers, and will inform him how far such prac-
tices have proved successful and advantageous, or
how far they failed-—and w/y they failed. One
man may profit of the failure or mistake of ano-
ther, and often does—The design has been good
and promising, and the cause of the failure may

thereafter be aveided, and the design be rendered
successful.

Mr. Forsyth’s treatise on the culture and ma-
nagement of trees, fruits, and gardening, ought

( 126 )

to be well attended to by the farmers of America,
as it contains accounts of important discoveries,
interesting to country families, and is founded on
very numerous and extensive instances of suc-
cessful practice.

For disclosingthe fruits of his experience, Mr.
Forsyth received from his government £4000
sterling money. ‘The world also receives the
benefit of his communications, especially in mak-
ing and applying his composition ; and with it
much other useful knowledge and instruction re-
specting trees, fruits and gardening, the price of
the £4000; and the world is indebted alsoto Mr.
Forsyth for it.

It is in full proof, from the instances of his ex-
perience, and the efficacy of his applications and
management, that all fruit-bearing trees and vines
are greatly improved in their properties of giving
much more and far Jetter fruit than in common
practice is produced: the difference, on comparing

them, is astonishing !

Of all the discoveries made public by Mr. For-
sythy the heading-down, training and pruning in

( 197 )

his very judicious methods, are the most import-
ant and satisfactory, including the application of
his composition, washes, and powder ! Upon these
communications Mr. Forsyth has a great deal to
value himself, Look to the neighbouring unhead-
ed, unpruned, or injudiciously trained fruit-trees
and orchards—how inferior, scrubby and mean,
the trees and the fruit!

Heading-down, training and pruning are prac-
tised by many people in their own some-how way ;
which together may be denominated the common
method: but how inferior, and how void of proofs
of its having any extraordinary good effect! Yet
it may be of some advantage, generally, more
than if no attempt was made to improve thetrees
and fruit, by the few country people who shew
some endeavour to improve. So by chance the
editor succeeded in heading-down and trimming
a number of peach-trees, without having then
heared the expression of Aeading-down. He had
been told it was advantageous to trim and thin
young trees when planted out. These trees grew
and produced fruit to admiration. But what is
ali the random pruning in America, compared with
Mr. Forsyth’s now well-known method, so supe-
rior to all ever before practised '

( 128 )

In general, the American air and climate appear
well adapted for yielding the best of fruits, as well
orchard as garden kinds. Strawberries, currants
and raspberries are very sure and perfect crops.
Gooseberries are not such certain or perfect pro-
ductions ; unless it may be in the cooler, ‘more
northern parts : but yet they answer culinary pur-
poses, and bottle well. This is with scarcely any

attention to their cultivation. ,

Cherries in America would abound and be in
great variety, very perfect, if some attention to
them was observed: but as itis withso little done
for them, they are a common, andrather a mean
fruit. "The sorts preferred in country places seem
to be the thick, tough, indegestible sorts, which
are now and then the cause of sudden death in

people who make too free in eating them.

Cherries are chiefly applied to culinary purposes,
and for improving brandy into what is called
cherry brandy ; which is a considerable article,
much noticed in Hamburgh, in Europe. It is im-
ported from thence into some places in America.

Apricots come when there is ascarcity of other

ripe fruits; which makes them more desireable

sn ee a)

than otherwise they would be. In the green
state, they make an agreeable tart. In ground
dug or stirred about the trees, asin gardens, they
are apt to drop their fruit without ripening it.

Peaches are in some variety, and ripento great
perfection in the middle and southern states ; as
with but alittle attention they would in the more
northern states of America. It is a fruit that is so
natural tothe country of these states, that they
are applied as food to hogs, alsoin making brandy,
and for culinary purposes. They are in succession,
one sort coming after another, from uly to No-
vember. In some of the states, Ai/us are erected
for drying and curing apples, pears, peaches, and
other fruits in great quantities ; where pies are

_made into mountains of crust, thick, essential, and
cheap 5 and given to hirelings, as an agreeable food
for all labouring people inthe country, and which
needs but little or no sugar. The dried fruit is
packed in casks for family use ; and is sometimes
exported as merchandize. ‘\hey are generally di-
vided into clear-stone and cling-stone peaches. ‘The
eling-stone sorts are, in France, called pavies. In
a list of thirty-nine choice sorts of peaches, given
by Mr. Forsyth, only six are received by the
S

( sep)

French as pavies or cling-stones ; and, it seems, in
France and England the clear-stone sort is prefer-
red at their tables.

But of all peaches, perhaps of all fruits, there is
none equal in flavor to the American Heath Peach,
acling-stone. It is large, weighing near a pound
in common: with but a moderate attention, the
editor believes, they would very generally weigh
a full pound. It is backward in ripening north-
ward of the Susquehanna ; and is one of the last
sort that ripens; many weigh a full pound.—
Peachley’s form of a vinery would perfect the ri-
pening, and secure the fruit from thieves. -

Within the states of America, clear-stone
peaches are preferred for food to hogs, and for
making brandy ; perhaps also to be eaten in coun-
try families, with milk; but the cling-stone sorts
are preferred when of a good sort, well ripened,
- to be eaten as fruit undressed.

It is a common fault, after having planted out
an orchard of peach-trees, to leave the trees to
shift for themselves and travel down with old
time, with scarcely any culture or attention; and

>

ism

( Ysu,)

the trees are taken from the nursery, where they
had become full grown, crowded and stunted, so as
to be now unfit for giving good fruit when trans-
‘planted: and they are left to themselves, without
any training or pruning; and heading-down is
scarcely thought of, if known: in consequence, the
fruit they yield is mean, and the orchard in the end
is given up.

Nectarines scarcely ever ripen in the parts of
America where the editor has been. An insect
punctures the green fruit, and gum flows from it,
till the fruit drops without ripening.

Every American farm has some sort of an apple
orchard. ‘The fruit is of various sorts of apples,
and formerly gave much cider; and store apples
abounded. Now, the trees and entire orchards be-
come daily more mean, and there is a great scarcity
of cider ; but few keeping-apples, and those knotty,
dry and insipid. ‘There is not the attention to
orchards that has been. West-India spirit and
French brandy abound in the shops ; and we wear
out the strength of our lands in scuffling for corn, of
all sorts, to be sold to the shopkeepers, who furnish
us very readily with exotic spirit and brandy. The

( ase@%)

orchard is no longer manured : instead of it, various
corns—oats, barley, rye, and even Indian corn and
wheat are sown and reaped in the orchard, on ground
not half dressed or cultivated. Moreover, the
orchards are now left open to powerful storms, to
which they are exposed from the general clearing
of the country, and particularly from clearing away
the neighbouring woods that had sheltered the
orchards. Further, pruning and training fruit-trees
are less understood and less attempted than former-
ly.—Mighty rum, and mighty brandy, divert better

attentions.

Pears in America are only from some one or two
trees in the farmer’s apple- orchard or garden ; mere-

ly for the fruit eaten, or for preserves or present cu- ©

linary purposes. Perry is scarcely known.

A few guinces, for preserves, are in a corner of
the American apple-orchard or garden. The edi-
tor had a row of dwarf pear-trees grafted on guince
stocks. They were chiefly the small round sugar
pear: the fruit abundant and good. The trees
about four or five feet high.

’

=

ky

( 393)

The Vine is quite natural to America. This,
with the plum tribe, the editor propagated in one of
the middle states. There however is very litle at-
tention observed towards the plum; though they
generally thrive well. Damisons are preserved for
making tarts.

Little attention is had to Wuts. The walnut of
Europe, and the Spanish chesnut, would be worth
cultivating, as well for the zzmber as the nuts. Al-
though the chesnut is bad as fuel, yet staves of ches-
nut, for wine casks, are equal, if not superior to oak.
In Italy it is much used for wine casks. The chesnut
is also excellent house timber in beams, &c. The
liquor of pickled walnuts is greatly used in sauces.

Formerly, the early settled plantations of the more
wealthy emigrants from England, abounded in large
spreading walnut-trees, of the European kind. In
some places were entire rows of them. At this
time, scarcely any such rows of walnut-trees, indeed
even of solitary straggling bearing trees are to be
seen, in the states where they had abounded. There
is a fashion in these as in other matters. The early
wealthy planters from England introduced wadnut-

trees about their houses—their descendants have

( 1479

giventhem up. Cabinet-makers have rooted and
sawed up all the noble blocks of curled veiny re-+
mains of noble walnut-trees—and the trees are not
renewed. It is no longer a tree noticed. Ina word,
very generally /ruzt is shamefully neglected by the
American farmers. ‘They plant—and they neglect!
Yet we sow wheat—it buys us rum, brandy and
spirits, at the expence of an entire impoverishment
of our lands.

OF HABITATIONS IN THE COUNTRY. .

IT is proper that they be adapted to the employ-
ments and manner of living, suitable to the farmer’s
circumstances, and what is genuine country life. It
is adviseable not to copy closely, for country life,
from the fashions, taste, or excesses of city life:
there must be a discreet difference preserved.

Whilst it is a fashion, convenient in cities, to
finish their rooms with stampt or coloured paper, in
the country this practice is less convenient or suita-
ble. Workmen in the country are every where to
be found, who can whitewash in the wholesome,

neat, old way, every year, or as may be the occa-

( 135 )

sion; when, to paper the country rooms as often as
may be requisite, though seldomer than white-wash-
ing, it is difficult to procure workmen, if not also
sometimes materials. This is one of the many in-
conyeniences attending the introduction of cizy ha-
bits and fashions into rural life ; where the neat and
convenient country usage of frequently wAzte-wash-
ing and renewing the rooms and chambers 1s experi-
enced, and has been always approved for its great
advantages and admired neainess and wholesomeness.

Giving up the well adapted usage of white-wash-
ing country mansions, is followed by many disad-
vantageous changes in country economy, house-
keeping, practices and employments ; especially by

_a too close attention to and observance of city plea-
sures.

Some particulars may be introduced into the
country from city usages, which will be advantage-
ous ; but the danger is great of their being attended
or followed with depravities or inconveniences.
There are not many that prove advantageous ; and it
is adviseable that plain, yet cheerful country life do
not give way too easily to city trifling, or things
adapted only to city life, if adviseable in any condi-

(716)

tion. In the good old courses, neatness, cleanliness,
and modest becoming character and habits, have
heretofore been admired and emulated by the inha-
bitants of cities ; on the other hand, country people
too closely and too largely followed the czty taste ;
which ushered them into city extravagances and
follies.

Among other improprieties, there is a great, ab-
surd and disadvantageous introduction, in country
houses, of plank floors on joists, and a giving up the
more natural, wholesome, cheap, solid and lasting
earthen and brick floors, for the city choice of wooden
floors over an unwholesome, close, stagnant air.

In the annexed plate is designed a country habita-
tion, with its first or basement story on an earthen
or brick floor, raised only six or eight inches, with
earth, on the common level of the ground. Farmers
in Europe, worth scores of thousands of pounds in
money, have houses, where they reside on their
farms, so built and so floored, because of its being
sufficient, proper, wholesome and convenient ; and
they find great advantage from their two kitchens,
one of them, clean asaparlour, is every thing to
the good house-wife and her family. But here in

CX 1S7e")

America, how common has it become for our far-
mers to imitate city modes and practices, however
unsuitable to the peculiar state of country affairs.
The proud, perhaps really poor city resident, how-
ever he bustles in the banks of paper-means of
gambling, builds fine houses, indeed house upon
house, called storzes ; for which he has the pretence
of a want of ground in towns; and the American
dashing imitative farmer builds in like shewy man-
ner, although he is not stinted in ground to build
on; he must have his flight of steps to pass to and
from his house, by one or other of his family, a hun-
dred times in a day—then another flight shews the
stranger, visiting, rooms empty, if not unfinished,
over rooms that ought to be under domestic employ-
ments. ;

The farmer’s house (having only one floor or
story) has no cellar under it. The floor of it is
brick. ¥or visitors, there are the two little front
parlours ; of which, one may occasionally have a
bed, or very full matrass. A middle room, 12 by
12, is the Joby, and for the stair-case. ‘The two
back rooms, 18 by 18, are family rooms. Up stairs
are five bed-rooms and a landing, 12 by 12. A cel-

r

¢ ise}

lar is under the traveller’s detached lodging ; which
is a house, 16 by 16, near or adjoining the mansion.

The farme:’s house of city stories on stories,
however shewy or not, outside, has less area, and
less of convenience, though much more wad/, than
the humble house of one floor or story. Its two
rooms, -20 by 20, and a passage 20 by 10, are all
that are in the first story, below. Above, in the
second story, are rooms too inconvenient to be of
much use : they are two bed chambers and a landing

of the stairs: in the roof are four bed-chambers, 14
by 12 1-2, and a landing.

The editor has been weil entertained in a house
which had but one floor (no upstairs), divided into
five rooms, 18 feet square ; the middle of them was
the summer room and the lobby ; another was a win-
ter.and dining room, ‘‘ parlour and all”? ;_ the three
others were bed-chambers, having fire-places, and
yery completely furnished. The two first occupiers
of it were great tobacco planters and merchants,
owning shipping: two others were mere planters.
It wasa house of great entertainment—and yet it
had but the one foor—not a room upstairs—no up-
and but one fifth of its area was cellar. A
shed room had been added for a nursery.

stairs

*

C138)

In comparing the walls of the farmer’s two above
houses, those of the modern, or with two stories,
are more than twice, or twice twenty-seven times
more in guantity and expence than the single story
house ; andmoreover, the single story house has
more of employed rooms and conveniences than the
farmer’s modern country house of two stories !

OF GARDENS IN AMERICA.

IS it presumption to say, that the Aouses on a
farm, entitled to immediate attention, and that
next to the mansion ought to be built, are what
will shelter the farmer’s beasts of the place? and
that the farm-yard is of more consideration than
the garden ; though this is of great value to every
family, especially to the farmer’s.

Country gardens, in America, are usually close
to the mansion ; and the farm-yard, when the farmer
has any, is a considerable distance from the man-
sion; perhaps partially to be seen from it. It may
even be said, that the garden is but of a secondary
consideration to the farm-yard, and ought to give
way to it. Then, as it is elsewhere said, it is ad-

( 140 )

vantageous to have the farm-yard, and all the work
and employment in it, within view from the man-
sion, asa check on the idleness and misconduct of
labourers and herdsmen. The garden may be in the
front, or on one of the sides of the dwelling house
or of the farm-yard, as conveniently placed as cir-
cumstances will allow, not to be, especially, too

near.

A garden laid out in long beds, admits of being
advantageously ploughed, with a light plough drawn
by a single horse, assor mule. Mr. Parkinson, an
English farmer of judgment and experience, lately
in America, in conversations, gave satisfactory ac-
counts of the excellence of cultivating gardens with
light single-horse ploughs; and he approved of an
ass, as being steady, sober and small, with which
he ploughed his garden crops. If the garden is
ploughed through its whole length, parallel with the
middle great walk, it can, after being well dressed,
have cross paths trod out, or otherwise as conveni-
ency demands.

Besides cultivating the garden sort of white
peas in long garden beds as above, the editor
is beholding, he thinks, to Mr. Parkinson for the

a Bh?

thought of tending those peas in field-husbandry ;
first dressing and preparing the field in fine condi-
tion, then sowing droad-cast ; when the pea vines
soon will cover the ground and smother many weeds.
If in this case there should be but a partial crop of
peas, though a full crop may be expected, yet the
product in the straw, or haulm and grain, together
would be very valuable to the farmer who shall know
how to spend such acquisitions amongst cattle and

sheep.

A country garden divides well, in the objects of
its productions, into articles to be prepared in cook-
ery for the table, into pot-herbs and medicinal herbs.
These may be in separate pieces of ground. The
pot-berbs, parsly, thime, &c. are frequently wanted
in haste; they may be nearest to the kitchen, &c.
and let them abound. In saving seeds, lay out for ten
times as much as it is thought will be wanted: many
accidents, from storms, insects, seasons, &c. hap-
pen. Whatever may be above the wants of the
garden, it will be a pleasure to supply neighbours
with ; and for ever there is a certainty of a sufficiency
athome. ‘Till the editor pursued this principle of
economy respecting seeds and fruits, he seldom had

(142i)

enough of either—and such are sore wants. In-
deed, respecting fruits he would not be limited in
quantity. Wants are due to careless, random, half-
spirited attentions, or where there is no care at all.

The garden fruit-trees (distinct from orchard or
straggling trees) may range along the interior or
middle walks, and generally at some distance from
the garden fence. The quantity designed to be
many times more than the family may be supposed
to want. Divide the placing fruit-trees distinctly
as out-fruit, for servants and others close at home,
and even. “Some articles, precious family comforts,
it is recommended to securely inclose in a vinery or
the like cheap building, under lock and key ; which
will scarcely require any expence of fuel. Here
grapes may run up the rafters in serpentine order,
whilst dwarf trees of the heath peach, &c. and also
figs, may be in the beds. Of figs, observe Mr.
Forsyth’s excellent instructions in the pruning and
cultivating them : no where are any equal to them,
in print.

If a full-crown peach-tree, in‘America, will ripen
400 peaches, two such will give 800 family com-

(145, 4

forts.* . Is it not worth the expence to secure such
perfect fruit, if it were only for the sick of a family?
In the season of peaches and grapes ripening, inter-
mittents arrive ; and how excellent, says the good
and knowing Tissot, is sound ripe fruit to the sick ;

as indeed those who have had them in their sickness
cannot but feelingly remember and vouch.

There can be little occasion for sheltering the
heath peach from autumnal cold any where south of
the Susquehanna. Yet the fg, a fine wholesome
fruit, though not an American favourite, 1s highly

* A gentleman in England, lately, grew within
frames, 14 feet long and 12 feet broad, the frames
having three slides uf glass, five peach-trees. At eight
years old they ripened 261, 201, 220, 151, 152 peaches,
in all 985. In thinning, there had been taken off 2020,
which, added to the ripened 985, amount together to
3005. Medium, 600 a tree, failures included ; from
which, off one third, would give to American peach~
trees 400 a tree, in ripened fruit in the field. Then
one tree in the back corners of two peacheries, would
give of the noble heath peach 1600; besides grapes
along the rafters. A vinery in England is usually 40
or 50 feet long, 9 feet wide, 3 feet high in front, 12 to
14 back: but the width in America may be 12 feet, the
height in front 3 or 4 feet, and back, on the north
wall, 12 or 13 feet.

( 144)

esteemed in countries where it ripens, and is every
where deemed wholesome and delicious when eaten
ripe from the tree. The editor knows that at first
his neighbours in America who disliked their flavor,
soon were fond of them, and they are in truth a
wholesome and a valuable fruit, as in his Maryland
garden was often attested irom experience.

The shelters, in nature of vineries, may be made
eood use of in America, for forwarding (not forcing
them out of season) cucumbers, melons, Lima beans,
peppers, &c.—sprouting the seeds in the vinery,
and even letting the plants grow a while ; then move
and plant them out in the garden becs or hills. First
in the vinery, grow the seeds in little unglazed
tivo-cent pots, or in paper, or willow zwigs, or straw,
make-shift temporary little baskets ; which are to
be removed, pot and earth, and seeds or plants,
without breaking their earth much, and all buried
where to remain. Early radishes and sallads may

also be here promoted.

The farmer cannot find it worth while to force
fruits aud plants out of season by the use of expen-
sive fires and attentions ; but to promote their time-

ly ripening, and securing choice fruits under lock

( 145 )

and key by affluent farmers would be profitable,
and of great comfort to sick people, for whom they
may have some thought.

Green-houses and hot-houses the husbandman
had better avoid, as being expensive ; and are too
far used in preternaturally ripening plants and
fruits: but to his consideration is referred the
cheap vinery or inclosure, for the purpose of se-
curing some choice grapes and figs, and a little ri-
pening some rather backward grapes, and perfect-
ing the fig-trees for next year’s bearing—as also _
may be ripened tender peaches, plums, and other
subjects of family comfort, under lock and key,
with very little or no fre ; but for some purposes

with a portion of glass in sliding frames. Of
which, see the plate.

The editor may have been too reserved in not
speaking of some advantageous occurrences re-
specting his own gardening and management of

fruit : but he will venture to relate an instance or
two.

In some gardens in America, green gages scarce-
ly yielded any fruit, or but badly: it was the case
U

Po

(146°)

of the gages in the editor’s garden, till by grafting
five green gages on five damison stocks, and at
the same time, of the same grafts, one was graft-
ed in the stock of a Chickasaw plum, growing near .
the damison stocks: in four or five years of the ©
grafted trees bearing, the five damison grafted
gages scarcely yielded a tenth of the fruit which
the one Chickasaw plum grafted tree gave. In-
deed, it was wondertul and curious to observe
how like ropes of anions the gages prew along the
twigs and small limbs of the Chickasaw grafted
tree; and another Chickasaw plum-stock, fifty
yards from the other, was grafted with one of the
same green gage cuttings as before, the year after
the others were grafted, and bore fruit equally
surprizingly as the former. It seems, then, that
Chickasaw plum-stocks are excellent for grafting
green gages on them. ‘The Chickasaw plum is
by some called mountain cherry. It is innothing a
cherry, but is red, and of the size of a cherry ;
and in many particulars is like the common wild
plum of the sea-coast.

In many parts of the country al/mond-trees gave
no fruit. The tree, though hardy, was planted
in the warmest parts of gardens ; where in spring |

(147°)

the blossom was the first out, of all trees; and then
the fruit was destroyed by subsequent frosts. ‘The
editor chose the coldest, most airy, exposed and
clayey part of nis garden, where he planted al-
monds. The trees bore the fruit to perfection in
three years after planting the nuts—the large soft-
shelled almond.

His strawberry vines were dressed every sum-
mer, after the fruit was gone ; the runners shorten-
ed, the ground stirred and «leaned from weeds, and
a moderate portion of mild cow-dung added, best
from the compost; and every third year the plants
renewed into fresh beds, the old ones left to give
fruit as long as they proved worth attention. The
improvement of the strawberries was great, in
quantity and quality of the fruit. Respecting
raspberries and the other garden fruits, consult
and attend to Mr. Forsyth’s treatment of them—
how different they are in size, &c. when managed
according to his book, the purport whereof is con-
tained inthe above Epitome ; and the method of
culture was partly experienced by the editor.

The editor but little regarded the breaking down
his peach-trees, or their destruction by worms—for

( 148 )

he aimed not at ‘‘enough,” but very many times
more than enough ; whilst persons aiming at their
enough, for ever wanted—as often as storms,
worms, insects, or other accidents happened to a
tree. When two or three of the editor’s trees
were blown down, or the fruit of so many was de-.
stroyed, still there was of fruit more than
enough ; and in every autumn he planted peach
stones, regularly as peas are inthe spring by other
people. They were in some numbers, partly in
borders where they might remain—others were
transplanted, some even after shewing their fruit.
Many were grubbed up. He preferred Baker’s
clear-stoue “fuly peaches, the Newingtons, and a
few others; especially the latest and best, the
large heath peach, ripe from October to Novem-
ber.-—He was for ever planting peach stones and
found not grubs, storms, &c. affecting them, to
his detriment.

OF PLATE XIV. ie.
IN the plate are plans and elevations of two me-

thods of building farmers’ dwelling-houses, drawn

on the same scale, 30 feet in an inch.

( 149 -)

Of the two, the modern house has 4200 feet of
wall: the old mode compleats a house more coz-
venient and of more room, with but 1850 feet of
wall ; less than half the quantity of wall!

A small out-house of one room would be, for
either hquse, very convenient for strangers to
lodge in: and to have under it a cellar sufficient
for a farmer’s family. Inthe loft over the bed-
room of this out-house may be straw matrasses for
travelling poor people or servants to lodge on:—
What an accumulation of advantages are here,
cheaply concentrated! Strangers cannot be al-
ways refused lodging; and it is not always with
perfect safety that they are taken into the family
house to lodge.

It may be best that there is no direct commu-
nication open between the mansion and the small
lodging-house. On thesameside of the mansion,
may be other convenient houses: m//e-house, &e.
On the opposite side of the dwelling may be a
passage to the out kitchen with closets, poultry-yard
and shelter, &c. Over the passage and closets
and out-kitchen may be /odgings for the family
servants, to go up to by a ladder or stairs from

(1506)

the passage. It is proper and necessary, especial-
ly in country houses, that accommodations, mostly
or ali together, be on the ground-floor. A free
quent use of the rooms upstairs will naturally be
avoided, as they are extremely inconvenient, but
for bed-rooms. In towns a scarcity of ground
obliges, a sore necessity, the building up Aouse
upon house, story upon story.

A clean small yard or two of close turf is highly
useful to the country house-wife. The garden is
more in sight and more likely to be attended to
when in front of the dwelling, but at a proper dis-
tance: and the road to the house is better to be
somewhat round-about on one side of the garden:
than to have it adirectly straight, dead view to
the eye at the house.

The small rooms in the o/d. plan may be par-
Jours ; occasionally with a bed or matrass in one,
easily removed, inthe country way. ‘Lhe lobby
has its uses, besides admitting the stair-case.

The first floors are of brick or cement in the old
mode, upon the ground, raised six or eight inches
with earth. The wal/ ought to be let three feet
deep in the ground, against severe frosts.

/ ‘
. e

( Thr )

Let nothing induce the having a cock-Joft in et-
ther ofthe houses. They are dangerous recepti-
cles of combustibles, and are often set fire to by
carelessness. ‘They ought to be so close that
scarcely a cat can enter them. It will suffice
that, after narrowing the area of the uppermost
floor in the o/d method, because of the interference
of the roof, there will remain an area of 36 feet by
24, to divide into six rooms, twelve feet square.
The garret floor, inthe zew mcthod, will divide
into four rooms of 14 by 12 1-4 fet, of no very
great demand in a country house, elevated as it
would be.

Wind can make but little impression on the /ow-
built house ; but what a powerful lever the Aigh
house would prove to be in storms! In sweeping
the chimnies and extinguishing fires, the prefer-
ence is in favor of the /Jow house. See more of
mansions, p. 134.

The vinery may be only one, as is common,
though some have two to advantage. The size
for the above purposes in -dmerica may be 40 feet
long, 12 broad, 12 or 13 High at the back wall, 3
or 4 at the front or south wall. The rafters

( 152 )

have sliding sashes, set with glass. This section is
drawn by a scale of seven feet per inch.

Such a house would ripen and secure heath
peaches in cold districts: the trees whereof might
be dwarfs. Fig-trees would perfect their fruit,
and harden their late grown wood. Also Lima
beans, cucumbers, melons, peppers, &c. may here
be aided in perfecting their ripening ; but not be
forced preternaturally. -

In England, the flue is inthe back wall ; which
can give plants only one side of its heat, very slow-
ly and duly moderate ; when the flue in the middle
of the floor, as here, gives three sides, or three
fourths of its heat. On the top of this stove may
be a bed of goodrich earth, andsmail seeds sown
in it ; or if seeds be sown iz small pots, they might
he carly sprouted, and when frost is gone the pots
and plants in them be disposed of in the garden ;
as Lima beans, peppers, &c. Some seeds need
only be sprouted in the wvery, and then sown at
large.

*

The gable-end of aWinery, or rather a section
of it, is given inpl. XIV. in which is seen a view

( 153 )

of the width of the beds, paths, flue, &c. It is
drawn on a scale of seven feet to an inch, Further,

1. Beds raised a foot or so: width shewn, three
and a half feet.

2. Width of the paths, eighteen inches.

3. The flue, nearly long as the vinery ; only leav-
ing room to pass by the fire-place, from path to path.

4, Lower division of the glass frames.
5. Upper division of the same.
6. Covered with boards or shingles.
“
7. North wall of the garden and vinery.
8. Grape vines, planted outside; and enter the
vinery about two feet. up the front or south wall.

This wall may be chiefly glazed.

The contents of this XIVth plate are respectful-
ly submitted to the consideration of the farmers of
America. ‘They will determine which of the two

Wwe

( W4. ) -

mansions, or the principles on which they are de-
signed, is to be preferred by real farmers ; and will
consider of American gardens and fruits. Some
general remarks are dispersed on these subjects ;
and the American farmer entreated to consult Mr.
Forsyti’s treatise, very frequently : it containipg
the most valuable information that ever was made
pubiic on trees and fruits !

The ecitor also recommends to /andbolders who
may be desirous «1 propagating plantations of z7m-
ber trees, that they consult the third volume of An-
devson’s essays on agriculture. He especially is
omportant in what he writes of the darch-tree, of

\rope ; atree so superior, in its uses, to all other

“s, that the universal preference given to it by
+» icant nations has occasiofied the extirpation of it

| accessible places of countries where it former-

-as to be had; aud where at this time little is to
lowuc Dut what grows in accessible, mountain-
ovS plices; saving in Russia, anew country, where
they still obtain of it for building ships of war at

oO

larax tin.

Archangel. American larch differs from this pinus

( 155

Of late, millions of larch plants are annually rais-
ed, for sale, in Scot/and ; and many trees are in gen-
tlemens’ grounds, grown to a full size, having been
raised before this moment of the value of the wood
being largely known. Of saving seeds, sowing
them, and cultivating the trees, Mr. Anderson is
full, pleasing, instructive, and satisfactory !

OF THE USEFULNESS OF BIRDS,

IN

DESTROYING INSECTS AND VERMIN COMMONLY INJU-
RIOUS TO THE HUSBANDMAN AND GARDENERS.

DR. BARTON’S fragments of the natural histo-
ry of Pennsylvania, points, with much justice and
ingenuity, to the conduct of various birds, although
of ill fame, from the early prejudices of youth,
against appearances, rather than any actual facts.

Insects and vermin are food to the immense bird
tribe : to which these insects are in due proportion
to the essential wants of birds, as again numerous
minuter beings are, with other aids of nature, to
those, &c. All nature depends on its own laws for
the support of its various subjects.

A. 156")

The attention of European writers to the common
well-known fact, observed especially in the rural
retreats of contemplative men, of animals preying
on animals for their food, is very commendable.
And often it has been observed, that whilst the
woodpecker, for an instance, is busily engaged on
the growing corn in digging with his beak and
probing with his barbed tongue for the worm or in-
sect which is equally active in destroying that corn
for his own food, the hasty, inconsiderate spectator
is outraged with the apprehension that the bird is a
destroyer of the corn, when he actually is in the
state of defending the corn for himself and the hus-
handman against the depredations of the insects.

The black bird and the crow are the two most
desperate destroyers of the maiz corn; on planting
the grains in the crossings, they follow and take up
the corn when it is even growing through the
eround: but when the maiz is ripe, then itis that
the crows seem to form their batallions, and pounce
upon a whole field at a time, eating and destroying
together entire fields; as in one year they served a
field of the editor ; and so in armies they fly over the
the country, till they choose.a field to attack, and

seemingly witha mighty command, one and all at

( "by §))

once scream aloud, and dash upon the selected
corn-field, missing but few ears that are left un-
gathered by the farmers.

Pidgeons, as well wild as domestic, are charged
with being great destroyers of grain. They do in-
deed eat much of the husbandman’s seed corn, vet
not so as to materially injure crops. They feed
mostly on wild seeds of sour grasses, weeds, &e.
But the farmer himself is extremely indiscreet in
common, by suffering old breeds of tame pidgeons
extending their colonies too largely and overrun all
laws of economy.

Poultry also eat much of the farm corn; but the
farmer eats both the poultry and the pidgeons, the
rabbits, &c.—all to his satisfaction and support.
Yet even the house-fiy is not grudged his share of
the most exquisite pine-apple cheese—nor the pu-
rest, most excellent Madeira wine.

** Busy, curious, thirsty fly,
“ Drink with me, and drink as I;
“‘ Freely welcome to my cup,

“* Could’st thou sip—and sip it up! in

The grudgings, indeed, of certain selfish people,
would withhold food from animals that in themselves

*

( “i5er°)

gratify the luxury ofthe condemner. Others, more
reasonable and thoughtful, know, and are willing to
admit that all animal life preys for its subsist-
ance, and lawfully preys, on other beings and sub-
jects, according to the laws of nature: the applica-
tion whereof, as such, answers other wise purposes.
The fish, the bird, the quadruped, all share in the
life of their own kind—vYet not so of man; to
whom, and some other animals, they are unnatural

as food to their own species, and so are withheld
and forbidden.

‘The sweet, cheerful mocking birds are said to be
enemies to us in eating our cherries and small fruit.
Very little of these Iam sure they consume. In
paying some attention to them, it has been remark-
ed that they are very particularly fond of spiders: if
this be their principal food, together with other in-
sects and worms, the epicure may not grudge him
his food ; and even of the red-breast, so much more
numerous, he robs the fruiter in proportion to their
extensive numbers. ‘They are indeed somewhat
vexatious in the partiality they shew for the garden
grape-vine, where they much abound, perhaps as
much for the spiders, bugs and worms, if not
more than for the grapes. But poor things they

w

( 159 )

must live, and we must not grudge a share of our
labour for their support; and from whence we ac-
quire pleasing gaiety in the morning in the trees di-
rectly at our windows ; and then let us give them
praise for their destruction of enemies, among worms
and bugs, to our garden and field crops. Of all
birds about a house, the most vexatious are the wa-
ter martin ; which had better be called the dee bird,
as it is for ever snapping up these industrious ani-
mals, full loaden as they are returning to their
hives. There isno such other enemy to bees.

But Dr. Barton has given so excellent an ac-
count of the habits and actions of birds in his frag-
ments of the natural history of Pennsylvania, that a
preference is due to it, for our present purposes ;
and it is referred to as the most satisfactory respect-
ing our present enquiries, as we have it in a Eu-
ropean late publication as follows:

“« It may in the first place be observed” says Dr.
Barton, “‘ that insects appear to be the first food of
almost all the birds of our country. The more I
have enquired, the more I have been convinced, that
almost all birds live, in some measure, upon in-
sects. Even those species which consume consi-

( 160 )

derable quantities of seeds, berries and fruit, also
consume large quantities of insects.

“* The greater number of our smaller birds of the

order @f passeres, seem to demand our attention |

and protection. Some of them feed pretty entirely
upon insects, and others upon mixed food—that is,
insects and seeds. Many contribute to our plea-
sure by the melody of their notes. I believe the in-
jury they do us is but small, compared to the gcod
they render us.

“<The muscicapa acadica of Gmelin, is called in
Pennsylvania the lesser or wood-pewe. This little
bird builds in woods and in forests. After the
young have left the nests, the parents conduct them
to the gardens and habitations of men. Here the

rood dwells in trees near the houses, where they
are fed by the old birds with the common house-fly
and other insects. ‘The young ones are soon capa-
ble of obtaining their food in the same way. This
species of muscicapa visits us in the spring, and
commonly continues with us till late in September,
when it retires southerly to winter.

( 161 )

*¢ The blue bird feeds principally, if not entirely,
upon insects, both such as are flying and such as

_ are reptile.

** Most of our species of wood-pecker, appear
very useful in destroying insects, particularly
those which injure forest and orchard trees’’—
and suchas infest and injure the corns whilst grow-
ing, especially the maiz or Indian corn. ‘“ It is
true, these birds are sometimes injurious to us, by
eating some fine fruits; and therefore pains are
taken to drive them from cherry-trees and Indian
corn.—But, withal, they devour great numbers of

injurious insects.

‘* As a devourer of pernicious insects, one of the
most useful birds is the house-wren. This lit-
tle bird seems peculiarly fond of the society of
man. From observing the usefulness of this bird
in destroying insects, it has long been a custom
in many parts of the country to fix a small box
at the end ofa pole, about houses, for it to build
m. When the young are hatched, the parent
birds feed them with insects. It is a curious
fact, that a friend counted.the number of times a
pair of wrens came from their box and returned with

x

( 162 ts *.

insects. He found it was performed from 40 to 60
times in an hour ; and ina particular hour they car-
ried food 71 times. They were engaged in this
business the greater part of the day. ‘Taking the me-
dium at 50 times inan hour (in the whole 12 hours)
a single pair of these birds took from the cabbage,
sallad, beans, peas, and other vegetables in the gar-
den, six hundred insects per day.’? This is sup-
posing the old birds carried but one insect ata time,
but the editor has seen them take and carry to the
nest two ata time, andeven, he believes, three.—
For preserving tobacco plants from-worms and in-
sects, at a nes, and on particular occasions, a’;whole
plantation of negroes, men, women and children,
and then again large flocks of turkies go through
20, to 40 acres of plants, plant by plant, and
take from them dai/y destructive worms and in-
sects, and render that service at a great expence,
“which the wrens, wood-peckers, and other wild
birds perform at no ex Saha unless the unreasona-
ble husbendman would charge them heavily for
sometimes partaking of the ae of their labour.
‘« Thus the esculent plants of a whole garden may
‘haps be preserved from the dcpredations of dif-
rent species of inscets by 10 or 15 pair of these

small birds; and morcover, they are a very agrecable

companion toman, for their notes are picasing.

Se

(163 )

‘¢ Perhaps our storks, cranes and herons are as
serviceable, if nct more so to us, as the Ibis
were in devouring the reptiles of Egypt. In Hol-
land at this time the storks go wild, protected by the
government, from a sense of their usefulness in the

above respect.

“¢ In Britain, the heron and other birds of the tribe
protect the country against an excessive increase of
frogs, toads, and other reptiles. _North-America
abounds with birds of this order.

‘The vulture is useful in swectening the air, by
devouring all carrion; and in Virginia the turkey-
buzzard, vultur aura, is one of the most useful birds
of this kind; and is there protected by a law.”

+ toae oe ial ¥
, ‘ boy .: h =.
< USPPLGE ets

8
’

EXPLANATIONS
OF THE

ENGRAVINGS.

CN6r 7}

EXPLANATION OF PLATE I. ;

Biren te
Represents an old apricot-tree, after the last
pruning in summer, in the fourth year after heading
down. The lower part of the trunk is represented as

covered with a rough bark, which must be pared off
when it happens to be cankery.

a,a,a,a. The cicatrices of the four different
years’ heading, which should be performed at the time
of the winter or spring pruning.

b, 6, 6. Forked shoots which are laid in, in sum-
mer, and cut off at ) inthe winter pruning, that the
leading shoots may be always left without forks.

As the sniall shoots c, c, c, from the stem, advance,
the larger forked shoots should be cut out, as at d, d, d,
to make room for them to be trained horizontally.

Ys Teg
Is an old branch of an apricot trained up accord-
ing to the old method, leaving above three-fourths of
the wall naked. Such branches should be cut down as
near to the place where the tree was first en
possible, as at ec, on purpose to fill the wall with’ fine
new wood.

‘ ( 168 )

EXPLANATION OF PLATE II.

Fig. 1.

An old hollow Green Gage Plum-Tree the second
year after headiag down. ‘this tree was very much -
decayed, having only a few inches of sound bark ; many
of the roots, beiag also rotten and decayed, were cut
off, and an incision made at a, which produced a fresh

root.
b. The first heading, close to a bud.

c, c. The new wood and bark growing over the

hollow part d, which is covered with the composition.

e, €, “9c. Where the second year’s heading was

‘performed.

If Where the fore-right shoots are cut off dur-

.

ing the winter or spring pruning.

8858, Ge. The fruit buds for next year, as they

appear after the fore-right shoots are cut of, as at fj fr

uf

ie Fiz. 2.
A branch on.a larger scale, to shew the manner of

cutting those fore-right shoots which are full of fruit

( 169 )

buds. This should be done at A, A, but not till the

fruit is set ; they afterwards form into dugs as i, i.

Pigy: 3.
An old branch pruned in the common way, cover-
ed over with canker, and producing only small weak

shoots, leaving the wall mostly naked.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE III.

Fig. 1.

Aw old hollow peach-tree, after the last nailing in
summer, which had been headed down at a, four years
ago. ‘The hollow is covered over with the composition,
and now nearly filled up. The heading must always

be done as near to a bud as possible.

6, 6, §c. Where the forked branches are to be
cut, when the small shoots c, c, &@c. are far enough ad-

vanced, that these may be trained horizontally.

When a shoot has single fruit-buds to the top, as
at d, it must not be shortened, but laid in at full length;
or, if not wanted, it must be cut clean out. See the
4to. edition, p. 53.

Fig. 2.
A branch on a larger scale.

a"

( 170 )

e, ce. Are double flower-buds, with wood-buds
between them: The shoots should always be cut at
such; but never at a single flower-bud, as at f; other-
wise the shoot would die to the next wood-bud ; and, if
the pruning were done ina careless manner, would en-
danger the whole shoot. Those above /, are all wood-
buds. See 4to. edition, p. 32, 33, 34.

Figo FS
A. branch of an old peach-tree pruned in the com-
mon way, which should be cut at g, and the young wood

will soon cover the wall.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE IV.

Fig. 1.
An old cherry-tree headed downat c. Before this
its branches were covered with the gum and canker, as

Fig. 2.

The fore-right shoots should be tucked in, as di-
rected for pears ; and at the fall of the leaf, or in the
month of February, they should be cut at a: These
form the fruit-buds 0. 4, &c. all over the tree.

c,c, &e. The cicatrices where the leading shoot
was headed in different seasons.

a hee

Ae

ee ee

d, d. The composition applied where large limbs

_ were cut off.

f Fig. 2.
A branch of this tree before it was headed down.

e, e, &c. Branches injudiciously pruned in sum-
mer ; which brings on the death of the shoot, and _af-
terwards the gum and canker on the tree.

SF, f; &c. The gum and canker in the last stage,
which corrodes the whole tree if not carefully extir-

pated,

EXPLANATION OF PLATE V.

An old cherry-tree, restored from two or three
inches of live bark, taken from the wall, and planted

out as a dwarf standard: Now very fruitful.

a, a. The cicatrices where it was headed down

the first and second time.

6. The hollow covered with the composition, and

now nearly filled up with sound wood.

( 172 }

EXPLANATION OF PLATE VI.

ergs vale
An old cankery apple-tree headed down four years
ago, now bearing great plenty of fine fruit.

a. Where it was first headed down.

bandc. Two wounds covered -with the composi
tion, and now nearly filled up with sound wood.

The part of the trunk below a shews the cankery
state of the bark; which rough cankery bark must al-

ways be pared off, otherwise it will infect the new.

Fig. 2.
A branch shewing the method of keeping a regu-

lar succession of bearing wood.

d. A branch, which has done bearing, to be cut
at e, and which is succeeded by the branch /; when
that also is tired of bearing, it is to be cut at g, and will
be succeeded by the branch 4; and when that also is
worn out, it is to be cut off at z. By proceeding in this
manner, you will always be able to keep a regular suc-
cession of fine bearing wood.

Whe

( 173° )

EXPLANATION OF PLATE VII.

Tuts plate represents an old decayed pear-tree,
with four stems, which was headed down, all but the
branch C, and the young wood trained in the common
way, or fan-fashion.

A, A, A. Young wood producing the fine large
fruit B.

C. An old branch pruned in the common way,
haying large spurs standing out a foot or eighteen
inches, and producing the diminutive, kernelly, and ill-
flavoured fruit D, not fit to be eaten.

The two pears Band D, represented in the plate of

their natural size, grew on the tree at the same time.

a, a, a, &*c. Wounds in the stems of the tree,
with the composition applied, as they appeared when
the edges of the bark began to grow over them.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE VIII.

Fig. 1.
An old decayed Beurre pear-tree headed down at
Jf, and restored from one inch and a half of live bark.

C57}
a,a,a, fc. The fruit-buds for the present year.
b, b, b, Sc. Those forming for next year.

c,¢c,&@c. The foot stalks of the fruit of last year,

on which are forming buds for bearing in the second

year.

d,d,&c. The fore-right shoots as they appear
before they are cut off ate, in the autumn or spring

pruning.

d. ‘The manner of tucking in the fore-right
branches.

if; Sc. Cicatrices of the different headings,
which cause the leading shoot to produce horizontal

shoots.’

&, g Large wounds, having the composition ap-

plied, healing up.

PIig@ei2.
An old branch of the same tree before it was head-
ed down, trained and pruned in the old way, with
spurs standing outa foot, or a foot anda half, from the

wall; andthe rough bark, infested with a destructive

insect, which is described and a method of cure given.

See Plate IX. Fig. 3.

( ws. )

EXPLANATION OF PLATE IX.

Fig. 1.
An old Bergamot Pear headed down at the cica-
trix a, taken from the wall and planted out as a dwarf

standard.

6. A wound, covered withthe composition, where
a large upright shoot was cut off, to give the leading
shoot freedom to grow straight.

Lig. 2.

The different appearances of the insect so destruc-
tive to pear-trees.

This insect is inclosed ina case, and, when fixed
on the leaf on which it feeds, appears as represented at
a, a, a, which is about its natural size.

b. The case magnified.

c. The case, with the Insect in motion, magnified

d. The Insect magnified.

e. The Moth.

J. The Chrysalis.

(A
g. The Chrysalis magnified.

Fig. 3.
The coccus which infests peach, nectarine, and

pe ar-trees.

a,a,a. The insect, the natural size, on a branch

of a pear-tree.

b, 5,6. The same magnified.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE X.

a, a, a, &c. THe young bearing wood of a vine
teen in a serpentine manner, with the buds for the
present year appearing. These shoots are generally
cut out in the winter pruning, as low as ¢, Cy e, &e. to
produce wood for next year.

| The shoots 6, b, &c. produce fruit in the usual
manner, also young wood for the following year, which
must not be topped, but only have the side shoots pick-
ed off. Two or three of the strongest young shoots
from each of those 4, 5, &c. will be sufficient, and they
ras be laid in at full length.

we dll mT)

(eRe)

EXPLANATION OF PLATE XI.

fig. 1.
GRAFTING in the rind, shoulder-grafting, or
erown-grafting.

a. ‘The stock grafted.

6. The manner of raising the bark to receive the
cion or graft.

e. The graft prepared for inserting.

Fig. 2.
Cleft-grafting, stock-grafting, or slit-grafting.

*
d. The stock grafted.

e. The stock prepared for receiving the graft.
f- > Thewgion ready for inserting.

d,d,d. Different views of incisions made for the
purpose of obtaining young wood.

e. A young shoot coming out at the lower part of
the incision.

(EAB Oy

EES. 3.
Whip-grafting, or tongue-grafting.

g. The stock grafted.
.h. The stock prepared.

z. The graft prepared for inserting.

Fig. 4.
Inoculating or budding.

k. The manner of making the incision inthe bark.
J. The bud inserted, and the bark laid over it.

m. <A shoot shewing the manner of cutting off the
buds.

n. A vessel with a little loam, covered with wet ~
moss, so stick the lower end of the shoot in, to keep it
moist till used.

9. A bud taken off and ready for inserting.

Fig. 5 and 6.
Inarching, or grafting by approach.

p. Grafting on a stock in a pot.

= uw

( ~179. >)

gq. Grafting on a stock growing near the tree
from which it is to be grafted on.

r, s» The shoot and stock prepared.

tin Ey Two branches inarched where the natural
ones had failed, now properly united with the body of

the tree ; the lower parts being cut off.

u, ue Two branches lately inarched for the same
purpese, and when properly united with the stem, are
to be cut off at wu, uw, u, ue

w, x. The manner of preparing the stock and
praft.

vy. Anatural shoot coming out where the branch ©

was inarched the preceding year.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE XII.

Tus plate represents an old stunted oak, which
was headed down. about six years ago. At that time

it was full of wounds and blemishes, now nearly healed

a. The place where the tree was headed, aftere

wards covered with the composition.

( 3180.)

b, 6,4. Three young shoots produced fine head- -
ing ; there were several others, which were cut down
as they advanced in growth; the two remaining side
ones are also to be cut down and only the middle one
left, which will in time cover the wound a, and form a
proper tree.

c,¢,c. Remains of the old wounds, covered with
the composition, and now almost healed up.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIII.

Fig. 1 & 2.

Two diffcrent views of a tool for cutting out the
dead aad decayed parts of hollow trees. It has two
wooden handles which may be of any convenient
length.

Fig. 3 & 4.
Two views of another tool, with one handle, for
cutting out dead wood. This is made narrower than
the former, and is to be used in places where /7g. 1 can-

not be admitted.

5. A triangular chisel, for cutting grooves or chan-
nels to carry off the water from the hollows of the

trees.

(er)

6. A tool representing an adze on one side and a
hatchet on the other.

7. <A large chisel.

8. A large gouge.
9. A small saw, with double teeth, thin on the
back, for cutting off small branches, &c.

10. A knife with a concave edge.

11. A tool inform of asickle, withoutteeth. This
is to scrape stems and branches of trees on the side
next the wall,

i2. A pruning-knife with a convex edge.

13. A tool in shape of a curry-comb for scraping
moss, &c. off the stems and branches of trees: One of
the scrapers has teeth; the other is plain. The back
of this tool, and the edges of the scrapers, are a little

concave.

14. A larger double-toothed saw for cutting off
large branches.

15. A small pruning-knife with a convex edge.

( *982°7) i
. A large chisel with a strong plate of iron screw~
ed on on the face of it, like a double iron for a plane,
_to prevent its running in too far where the tree is cross-
grained.
tp
NEB. These tools have handles of different lengths,

rhe . %
to be used as occasion requires.

XPLANATION OF PLATE XIV.

Fig.

Farmers’ houses of residence are of various sizes
and forms, suitable to the degree and circumstances of
the occupier.—Fig 1 is the most humble of farmers’
habitations, on the smallest farms; and is an excellent
design for acottage. The floor is best of brick or ce-
ment, or earth perfectly solid. The size 16 by 12 feet.

a, ad. Dotted lines, fhewing the width of area up-

stairs, 8 by 16: to form two rooms of 8 feet square.

a"
£

. fg. 2.
This is a comfortable house for a farmer’s family
in common ; and very conv enient, without ostentation.

—It admits of an entry by one or two steps—Its. busi-

ness is all done on the one ground floor: the 7

over head being solely as bed-chambers and Wore-

rooms of family goods.—it admits of enlargement on

‘

( 183 )

the ground, as may be for future occasions—lIts chim-
nies are easily swept—lIts single story gives little to
the power of storms—A fire is easily conquered, being
more within reach than when it breaks out on two-story
houses. Into this most common farmer’s habitation,
you enter a lobby 12 by 12 feet; the stairs to bed-
chambers and store-rooms, over it. On each hand of
the lobby is aroom also 12 by 12 feet, with a small
corner chimney. The two back rooms, which are 18
by 18 feet, are family rooms of employment: they look
back into the farm-yard. A door may be on the east
and west sides. Best that there be little or no cellar
under this habitation. If any cellar, let it be under
one of the 12 feet rooms ; but still better to be under a
small out-house for a poor traveller’s bed-room.
N. B. The two dotted lines shew where the sides of
the chambers upstairs will extend to. When divided

off, there will, for chambers and stores or closets, be
six rooms of 12 feet square.—The whole of the ground
floor may be laid so/id with brick or cement ; and this
coloured or not at pleasure: but the solid floor is the
healthful floor ! ever and ever. Even the upper floor
would be well laid with stout sawed laths, and then
laid thick with a cement; which would protect against
fire, d,d, Doors,

ae Fig. 3.
- This is taken from a honse lately built in the state
of Main by an English family; having only a ground

” a

ra ( 184 ) '

story, the floors of brick and earth. They are built om
the principles of farm houses in the experienced old
countries ; having never more than one story, with
brick or cement floors, solid, that no stagnant, un-
wholesome air be admitted under them ; except a very
small portion of cellar under the stairs, for containing
family small beer, lard, &c. Bed-rooms, and closets
or store-rooms may be over head, in the garret or se~

cond floor, as in No.2

Fig. 4.
This and Fig. 3 were built nearly together by re-

lations by marriage, and there need not be sought a

more convenient and comfortable house than either of

them, suitable to farmers of property. Upstairs, as

No. 3.

Fig. 3. Enter a passage 10 by 25 feet to a. a store-
room: b. acloset: c. childrens’ bed-room: d. bed-
room of master and mistress: e. closet: f. parlour,
15 by 22feet: g. friends? bed-room, 15 by 19: h.h.h.
closets : i. kitchen, with cellar and chamber stairs: k.
door into shed, 27 by 13, with fire-place and copper: a
pump and sink; door both ways Fig. 4. 1. entry
with closets for books, &c. on each side, 81-2 by Bar
m. north parlour, a beau-room, 22 by 18 1-2: n. boys’
bed-chamber and closet, 7 by 8 feet: 0. girls’ bed.
chamber, 7 by 7 feet: p. master and mistress’s room :
q. q. closets: r. parlour, 16 by 20: s. friends’ bed-

5 RES i, net

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( 185 )

room 16 by 20: t. kitchen, with sink, and store-room
u.w. Whole front, 50 feet.

The areas are worth noticing:

Fig. 1, 192 feet. The least farmer’s house: same
as a good cottage.

Fig. 2, 1080 feet. The farmer’s habitation ; the
most common.

Fig. 3, 1520feet. A wealthy farmer’s house.
Fig. 4, 2000 feet. Ditto.

It is a rural absurdity to entertain the idea of more
. ° . .
than one story to a farmer’s habitation—or to any habi-
tation in the country, less than a proud palace.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE XV.
Fig. 5. /
Pian of a two-story house :—50 feet long, 20 feet
wide ; passage, 10 by 20; two rooms, 20 feet square ;

chimney in each room, at pleasure.

( 186 )

fig. 6.
Elevation of the same two-story habitation of all
show and little use ; but, withal, very inconvenient, and

very costly.

Fe ee
Elevation of the farmer’s one-story habitation, of
which the plan is in pl. XIV, fig. 2. a size and form
suitable to farms the most common, and which are
cheap, strong, convenient, wholesome, and the best

adapted for the purposes of a farmer’s family, and the

views and employments of country house-wifery.

Epitome, p-142,) Speaks of the uses of the Vi-
144, nery.

151, &c. of the size, &c. of the Vi-
nery.

152, refers to Pl. XIV.

If any more is wanted of Vineries, refer at large
to Speachley’s book treating of them in England, 8vo.

UN BS

Apricots, sorts, to plant and train, 3, 128.
ripen when there is little other fruit, 128}
when and how head down, 4, 5.
when very young, make tarts, 129.
. bear best where the ground is hard, 129.

ALMONDS, sorts, training, 67.
cured in sand, 68.
dwarfs easily covered against spring frosts, 67.
in clay, cold soil, 146. :

AMERICA, the climate favourable to fruits, 128.

its garden and orchard fruits, 125, 133,

its country habitations, 134, 138, 148.

the gardens, 139, i48. ©

country habitations, old and modern compared, !48.

birds inoffensive or injurious to crops, 155.
APPLES, to harvest and store, 90, 9%.

scarce in America from neglect, 131.

AUTUMN, an objection to prune then, 5.

BARBERRIES, sorts, how propagate and prune, £8, 59.
attract singing birds, their use, 58, 59.

BOOKS, on husbandry, advantageous to husbandmen, 125.
BUDDING, general aggount of it, 74,

time and signs of the buds taking, 81.

of cutting off the stocks, 81.

particular modes of budding, 107.

the varioustools, 107.

times for budding, 108.

BIRDS, &c. advantageous or disadvantageous to husbandry, 155.

CATERPILLAR, a sort peculiar to gooseberries, 52, 53.
CANKER described, and cure, 95, 94.

INDEX.

CHESNUTS, sorts and propagation, 68 to 70.
plant out in autumn, head down in time, 70.

CHERRIES, see the advertisement, ante. and American, 128.
ingredient in cherry brandy, 128.

COMPOSITION, always apply to parts cut, 5.
liquid, 94—-powder, 100, 106,
experience of it, and approved abroad, 114.
has effected vast improvements, 126.

COVERING FRUIT-TREES AGAINST Sa pat 5, 6.
CURRANTS, the sorts, 38.

to continue in June to November, 54.
jelly of black currants, 54, *:
black currants as usedin Ireland, 54. *
to propagate, 55, 56.
prune and head down, 56, 57.
dwarf currant-trees preferred, 58.
keep clear of suckers, 58.
CELLARS in the country best under an out-house, 149.
CIDER scarce in America from neglect, 131.

CUCUMBERS assisted in a vinery, 144.

DISEASES OF FRUIT-TREES, 99, 100.
DWARF FRUIT-TREES preferable to Espalier, 11.

in a vinery, 142.
ESPALIER, inferoir to dwarf trees, 11.

EXPERIMENTS, comparative, in pruning pears, 24, 25, 26.
in heading down, composition, poe
&c. 109, 113, 126.

ENGRAVINGS, the plates explained, 167.

FIGS, sorts, pruning and culture, 40.
the fruit and wood matured ina vinery, 142
eee the trees against frost, 43, 45.
milk oozing, how stopt, 44.
to train horizontally, 45.
their spurs, leave to grow, 43.6
to shelter against winter, 45.
to forward their ripening early, 44.

FROST, late in England, 31.

INDEX.

FORSYTH, his merit, and treatise recommended, 125.
his comp er ie, heading, and training, superior ! !
and have effected astonishing improves
ments, 126.
FRUIT, when to begin thinning it, 11.
of America, 125.
dried in kilns, 129. :
rule for having enough, 141, 142.

FRUIT-TREES, defects repaired, 99.

FARM-YARD, in full view from the house, 140.

GRAFTING, 74
signs of the buds having taken, 81. __
time and manner, of the stock in budding, 81.

GARDEN, the site to prefer, 82. Soil and form, 83.
ploughings and digging before planting, 84.
water convenient—irnigating, &c. 84.
walks and drains, 85, 86.
borders, walks, paths, 86.
pits for hot-beds, 86, 87.
plan of the garden, to be kept, 87.
walls, foundation, height for kitchen garden, 87.
size, brick best in walls, 88.
in America, 140—divide affd plough, 141.

GOOSEBERRIES, sorts, and how raised, 47, 48, 49, 51.

soil rich, and dunged often, 49%

shade, 49, 51. Thinning, 51.

cut down ane train, 49, 50, 52.

fruit on second year’s wood, 49.

modern improvements, in watering, rich
soil, and thinning, 51.

early amd late fr uity attend to, 51, 52.

garden shears injurious, 52

a Sera early bartender, §25 53:

GUM, described and cured, 94, 95

GRAPES, trained serpentine, 142...

GREEN GAGE, the best stock for it, 146.

HEALED DOWN trees, how superior in fiuit, 24, 27.
chesnuts to be well rooted, 70.

particulars of preference, 115, 120.

INDEX.

HIDE-BOUND QUINCES, to cure, AZ.
HABITATIONS, in the country of America, 134, 148.

of more than one story avoid, as being in-
convenient and dear, 136 to i38, 139.

of only one floor and no upstairs, of great
fame, 138.

HOT-HOUSES avoid in the country by husbandmen, 144, 145.
INSECTS, 96, 98, 53.

LIME and LIME-WATER against insects, 53.
LODGINGS for strangers, best out-house, 149.
MILDEW and BLIGHTS, the nature and remedy, 96,
MULBERRY, sorts, and how propagated, 64, 65. ;
thinning and training, 65.
restored and improved by the composition, 66.
decayed, head down, the fruit improved, 66.

MELONS, Peppers, &c. made and secured in a vinery, 144.

NECTARINES, 17, 131.

NOTES ON AMERICAN GARDENING, &c. 125.
NUTS, but little cultjvated in Aerica, 133.
NUISANCES TO CROPS, 156.

ORCHARDS, ony for standard fruit-trees, 88.
the size, give dung every two or three years, 89.
pare and wash off canker, then lay on Cornpest-
tion and powder, 89, 90, 106.
neglected in America, 131.

ORANGE-TREES, head down, 116-
OAKS, an important particular of the root, 120.

PEACHES, a selection, 12
preparing and enine the stones, 14,
heading down the tree, 15.
the each peach, most excellent, 130.
fed to hogs, ate with milk, ake b; ‘andy, 12
in succession from July to November, 129.
dried in kilns, fed, exported, 129.

INDEX.

PEACHES, clingstones called pavies, 129.
peachery, ahouse to save them, 130, 142, 143.
eulrivation neglected, 130.
plant yearly, asif peas; autumn. ‘hen always
abound against storms, worms, &c. 148.

PEAS, sown broad-cast, 141.
straw, rich food, 141.

PEARS, a selection, 17.

caution in storing them, 21.

choice from the nursery, 22.

heading and pruning, 23.

experiments proving the great superiority in pears
from pruning, &e. 23, 24.

storing and keeping, 90, 92.

few, and no perry in America, 132.

dwarfed on quince stocks, 132.

POWDER, Mr. Forsyth’s discovery, 38, 94.
PLUMS, selection, 7.

cautions in planting, 8, 9.
heading down, 9.

training, 9.

trench, when planted out, 11.
dwarted, 11.

cover as apricots against frost, 11.

PRUNING, always followed with the compositions, &c.
autuinnal not to be preferred, 62.

PLANTING, cautions of Plants, 89.

QUINCES, tie best, to plant cuttings, the distance, 46.
iwulch the plants and often water, 46.
plant forward ones it! autumn, 46.
some raised from grafts, 46.
prune, and old ones head down, 46.
apply the composition, 47,
hide-bound, to cure, 47.
plant them distant trom apples and pears, 47.
in the American orchard or garden, 132.

RASPBERRIES, sorts, and how propagated, 60. -
in America, 128, 147.
the roots delicate in planting, 61.

INDEX.

RASPBERRIES, plant in moist weather, 61.
water frequently, having trenched, 61.
i small plants tie together, others stake, 62.
autumnal pruning inferior, how to prune, 62.
remove plants every five years, 63.
number of shoots to retain on removals, 63.
RUST, meaning honey-dew, mill-dew, blight, 95, 96.

ROOT, the tap-root, very important particulars of them, 120.

STANDARD FRUIT-TREES, the most suitable to Ame-
rica, 10.

STRAWBERRIES, in America, how treated, 128, 147.
SEEDS, rules for assuring enough, 141, 142.

TREES, transplant in their former position, 10.
defects and injuries repaired, 99.
importance of tap-roots, and that they grow again, 120.
friut-trees, defects repaired, 9y.

TRENCH GROUND before trees are planted, 60.
TIMBER TREES treated of by Anderson, 154.

VINES, selected, 32.
how to choose cuttings, 33.
train and prune, 33—serpentine form, 34.
the composition used on every cut, 38.
if it bleeds, apply the powder, 38.
when and how watered 39.
enemies in insects and birds, 39,
leaves not to be stripped off, 39.
currants in America, 128.

°

very natural to America, 133.

VINERY, how built and used, 142, 151.

WALNUT-TREES, sorts, training, use of composition, kc. 72-
pay a great rent, 73.
gathering, curing, keeping the fruit, 73.
fruit shrivelling, steep in milk for use, 73.
formerly abounded in America, 133.

WHITEWASHING best in the country, 154.

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