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' EVERY LADY
HER OWN

FLOWER GARDENER.

BY
LOUISA JOHNSON.
CONTAINING

SIMPLE AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS

FOR
CULTIVATING PLANTS AND FLOWERS,
IN THE
NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN STATES.
ALSO
FLORA’S REVEALINGS,
AND

HINTS FOR THE MANAGEMENT OF FLOWERS IN ROOMS,
&C., WITH BRIEF BOTANICAL DESCRIPTIONS
OF PLANTS AND FLOWERS ;

THE WHOLE IN

PLAIN AND SIMPLE LANGUAGE,

EXPRESSLY CALCULATED

FOR POPULAR USE.

NEW HAVEN:

PUBLISHED BY 8S. BABCOCE.

1842.

Ne

; $1, ENTERED, ry
ACCORDING sa THE ACT OF CONGRESS, IN ihe YEAR 1842,
. » BY S. BABCOCK,
IN ets OFFICE OF THE CLERK OF THE DISTRICT COURT OF
- CONNECTICUT.

oe ‘Transfer

_ Hngineere s School Liby. *
ine 2.38 1931 | a 1.

5 PREFACE.

a

I wave been induced to compile this little work from hearing
many of my companions regret that no single book contained
a sufficiently condensed and general account of the business
of a Flower Garden. “We require,” they said, ‘‘a work
in a small compass, which will enable us to become our own
gardener: we wish to know how to set about every thing
ourselves, without expense, without being deluged with
Latin words and technical terms, and without being obliged
to pick our way through multiplied publications, redolent of
descriptions, and not always particularly lucid. We require
a practical work, telling us of useful flowers, simple modes
of rearing them, simply expressed, and free from lists of
plants and roots which require expensive methods of preser-
vation. Some of us have gardens, but we cannot afford a
gardener: we like flowers, but we cannot attempt to take
more than common pains to raise them. We require to
know the hardiest flowers, and to comprehend the general
business of the garden, undisturbed by fear of failure, and
at the most economical scale of expense. Who will write us

such a book ?”’

1*

1V PREFACE.

I have endeavored to meet their views: and my plan of
Floriculture may be carried into effect by any lady who can
command the services of an old man, a woman, or a stout
boy. Ihave omitted the names of all tender plants; and
I have given a chapter to eachclass of plants, in language as
plain as the subject would allow. I have avoided technical-
ity; and I have endeavored to execute my task with a due
respect to economy, simplicity, and arrangement. I dedi-
cate my work to all of my own sex who delight in flowers,
and yet cannot allow themselves te enter into great expense
in their cultivation.

L. JOHNSON,

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION.

Pleasures of Gardening—-How conducive to health—Early
taste for Gardening in England—Pleasure-gardens at

Theobalds—Gardening for Ladies — - - page 9J—12

CHAPTER I.

GENERAL REMARKS.

Situation for a Flower-garden—On improving the Soil—
Aspect and choice of Flowers—Monthly Roses—Rustic
Stages—Garden Tools, and Working Dress—India-rubber
Shoes indispensable ee oer ye ih 13—18

+

CHAPTER II.

LAYING OUT.

Arrangement of Plants—Root-houses—Annuals—Biennials
—Perennials—Planting out Beds—Amelioration of Soils—
Monthly Lists of Flowers—Destructive habits of Hares
and Rabbits, Snails, Earwigs,—Mildew, and Blight—Neat-
ness and order indispensable in a well-kept Garden—
Spring Plants—List of Perennials - - 19—39

vl CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IIl.

BULBS AND PERENNIALS.

Transplanting Bulbs—Advantage of Salt Manures—Best
arrangement for choice Bulbs--Select Lists—Fibrous-
rooted Flowers—Biennial—Their propagation—Protec-
tion necessary - : - : page 40—62

CHAPTER IV.

ANNUALS.

Sowing and gathering Seed—Training and trimming Plants
—List of Annuals” - - - - - - 63—70

CHAPTER V.

ROSES AND JASMINES.

Poetry of Flowers—Varicties of Roses—Pyramids—Climb-
ing varieties—Insects injurious to the Rose—List of Roses
—Luxuriant appearance of the Jasmine—Devices for dis-
playing its beauty - - - 71—80

CHAPTER VI.

SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS.

On Planting--Distance between each—Various modes of
propagating—List of best Garden Sorts—Pruning 81—88

CHAPTER VII.

MONTHLY NOTICES.

Recapitulation of Work to be done in each Month = 89—95

CONTENTS. vil.

CHAPTER VIII.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

Calendar for the Southern states - - page 96—100
CHAPTER IX.
VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Calendar for the Northern states - - - 105—110
CHAPTER X.

MANAGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS.
Hints—Want of proper light and air—Injudicious watering—

Extraneous matter collected on the leaves—Bulbs 111—113
CHAPTER XI.
FLORA’S REVEALINGS.
Language of Flowers -~ - : : - 114—181
CHAPTER XIi.

Planting—Gathering and Preservation of Seeds - 119—132
CHAPTER XIIf.
THE WEATHER.

Clouds—Winds—Mists—Signs ofrain, &c. - 133—136

CHAPTER XIV.
BOTANICAL EXPLANATIONS

Flowers—Inflorescence, or manner of Flowering—Classes
and orders—Poisonous plants—To preserve Flowers and
Plants - - = - =, «+. = +EOt=i42

INTRODUCTION.

ne nee

Ir has been well remarked, that a garden affords
the purest of human pleasures. The study of
Nature is interesting in all her manifold combina-
tions: in her wildest attitudes, and in her artful
eraces. ‘The mind is amused, charmed, and aston-
ished in turn, with contemplating her mexhausti-
ble display ; and we worship the God who crea-
ted such pure and simple blessings for his crea-
tures. These blessings are open to all degrees
and conditions of men. Nature is not a boon
bestowed upon the high-born, or purchased by
the wealthy at a kingly price. The poor, the
blind, the halt, and the diseased, enjoy her beauty,
and derive benefit from her study. Every cottager
enjoys the little garden which furnishes his table
with comforts, and his mind with grateful feel-
ings, if that mind is susceptible of religious im-
pressions. He contemplates the gracious Provi-
dence which has bestowed such means of enjoy-
ment upon him, as the Father whose all-seeing
eye provides for the lowliest of his children; and
who has placed the “purest of human pleasures”
within the reach of all who are not too blind to
behold his mercy. With this blessed view before
his mental sight, the cottager cultivates his little
2

10 | INTRODUCTION.

homestead. ‘The flowers and fruits of the earth
bud, bloom, and decay in their season, but Nature
again performs her deputed mission, and spring
succeeds the dreary winter with renewed beauty
and two-fold increase. Health accompanies sim-
ple and natural pleasures. The culture of the
ground affords a vast and interminable field of
observation, in which the mind ranges with sin-
gular pleasure, though the body travels not. It
surrounds home with an unceasing interest; do-
mestic scenes become endeared to the eye and
mind; worldly cares recede; and we may truly
say—
‘« For us kind Nature wakes her genial power,

Suckles each herb, and spreads out every flower!

Annual for us, the grape, the rose, renew

The juice nectarious, and the balmy dew:

For us, the mine a thousand treasures brings ;

For us, health gushes from a thousand springs.”
Eth. ep. i. ver. 129.

The taste for gardening in England, began to
display itself in the reign of Edward III.,in whose
time the first work on the subject was composed by
Walter de Henly. Flower-gardening followed
slowly in its train. The learned Linacre, who
died in 1524, introduced the damask rose from
Italy into England. King James I. of Scotland,
when a prisoner in Windsor Castle, thus describes
its “most faire” garden :-—

‘“¢ Now was there maide fast by the towris wall.
A garden faire, and in the corneris set
An herbere green, with wandis long and small
Railit about, and so with treeis set
Was all the place, and hawthorn hedges knet,
That lyfe was now, walking there forbye,
That might within scarce any wight espie,

INTRODUCTION. 11

So thick the bowis and the leves grene
Berchudit all, the alleyes all that there were ;
And myddis every herbere might be sene
The scharpe grene swete junipere
Growing so fair, with branches here and there,
; That, as Sit seymt to a lyfe without,
The bowis spred the herbere all about.”
The Quair.

Henry VIII. ordered the formation of his gar-
den at Nonsuch about the year 1509, and Leland
says it was a “ Nonpareil.” Hentyner assures us
of its perfect beauty, describing one of its marble
basins as being set round with “lilac trees, which
trees bear no fruit, but only a pleasant smell.”

The pleasure-gardens at Theobalds, the seat of
Lord Burleigh, were a unique, according to the
report of Lyson. In it were nine knots exqul-
sitely made, one of which was set forth in likeness
of the king’s arms. “One might walk two myle
in the walks before he came to an end.”

Queen Elizabeth was extremely fond of flowers,
and her taste ever influenced that of her court.
Gilliflowers, carnations, tulips, Provence and musk
roses, were brought to England i in her reign.

William III. loved a pleasaunce or pleasure-
garden; but he introduced the Dutch fashion of
laying them out, which is still horrible in our eyes.
His Queen superintended in person all her ar-
rangements in the flower-garden,—an amusement
particularly delightful to her. In those days,
‘“‘knottes and mazes” were no longer the pride of a
parterre, with a due allowance of “pleasant and
fair fishponds.”

Queen Anne remodelled the gardens at Kensing-
ton, and did away with the Dutch inventions.
Hampton Court was also laid out in a more perfect
state in her reign, under the direction of Wise.

nee INTRODUCTION.

Since that period, flower-gardening has progress-
ed rapidly ; and the amusement of floriculture has
become the dominant passion of the ladies of Great
Britain. It is a passion most blessed in its effects,
considered as an amusement or a benefit. Nothing
humanizes and adorns the female mind more surely
than a taste for omamental gardening. It compels
the reason to act, and the judgment to observe ; it
is favorable to meditation of the most serious kind ;
it exercises the fancy in harmless and elegant oc-
cupation, and braces the system by its healthful
tendency. <A flower-garden, to the young and sin-
gle of my sex, acts upon the heart and affections
as a nursery acts upon the matronly feelings. It
attaches them to their home; it throws a powerful
charm over the spot dedicated to such deeply inter-
esting employment; and it lures them from dwell-
ing too deeply upon the unavoidable disappoint-
ments and trials of life, which sooner or later dis-
turb and disquiet the heart.

An amusement which kings and princes have
stamped with dignity, and which has afforded them
recreation under the toils of government, must be-
come for ever venerated, and will be sought for by
every elegant as well as by every scientific mind.
Floriculture ranges itself under the head of female
accomplishments in these our days; and we turn
with pity from the spirit which will not find in her
“garden of roses” the simplest and purest of
pleasures.

13

CHAPTER I.

GENERAL REMARKS.

In the laying out of a garden, the soil and situation
must be considered as much as the nature of the
ground will admit. Let no lady, however, despair
of being able to raise fine flowers upon any soil,
providing the sun is not too much excluded, for the
rays of the sun are the vital principle of existence
to all vegetation. ‘T’he too powerful rays can be
warded off by the arts of invention, but we have
yet no substitute for that glorious orb. Unless its
warm and forcing influence is allowed to extend
over the surface of the garden, all flowers wither,
languish, and die. Sun and air are the lungs and
heart of flowers. A lady will be rewarded for her
trouble in making her parterre in the country; but
in large towns, under the influence of coal smoke,
shade, and gloom, her lot will be constant disap-
pointment. She can only hope to keep a few con-
sumptive geraniums languishing through the sum-
mer months, to die in October, and show the deso-
lating view of rows of pots containing blackened
and dusty stems.

Many soils which are harsh or arid, are suscep-
tible of improvement by a little pains. Thus, a
stiff clay, by digging well and leaving it to become
pulverized by the action of the frost, and then mix-

Q*

14 IMPROVEMENT OF SOILS.

ing plenty of ashes with it, becomes a fine mould,
which I have ever found most excellent for all
flowers of the hardier. kind. ‘The black soil is the
richest in itself, and requires no assistance beyond
changing it about a foot in depth every three years,
as a flower-garden requires renewing, if a lady ex-
pects a succession of handsome flowers. The
ground should be well dug the latter end of Sep-
tember or October, or even in November, and if the
soil is not sufficiently fine, let it be dug over a se-
cond or third time, and neatly raked with a very
fine-toothed rake.

Stony ground requires riddling well, and great
care must be taken to keep it neat by picking up
the little stones which constantly force themselves
to the surface after rains. Nothing is so unbe-
coming as weeds and stones in parterres, where
the eye seeks flowers and neatness.

Almost every plant loves sand; and if that can
be procured, it enriches and nourishes the soil,
especially for bulbs, pinks, carnations, auriculas,
hyacinths, &c. Let it be mixed in the proportion
of a third part to the whole.

If dead leaves are swept into a mound every
autumn, and the soap suds, brine, Wc. of the house
be thrown upon it, the mass will quickly decom-
pose, and become available the following year. It
makes an admirable compost for auriculas, Wc.,
mixed with garden or other mould.

If the ground be a gravelly soil, the flower-gar-
den should not slope, for stony cround requires all
the moisture you can give it, while the sloping sit-
uation would increase the heat and dryness. A
moist earth, on the contrary, would be improved by
being sloped towards the east or west.

ASPECT FOR FLOWERS. 15

The south is not so proper for flowers, as a glar-
ing sun withers the tender flowers ; but the north
must be carefully avoided, and shut out by a laurel
hedge, a wall, or any rural fence garnished with
hardy creepers, or monthly roses, which make a
gay and agreeable defence. Monthly roses are in-
valuable as auxiliaries of all kinds. They will
grow in any soil, and bloom through the winter
months, always giving a delicate fragrance, and
smiling even in the snow. Monthly roses will
ever be the florist’s delight: they are the hardiest,
most delicate-looking, and greenest-leaved of gar-
den productions ; they give no trouble, and speedi-
ly form a beautiful screen against any offensive ob-
ject. No flower-garden should exist without abun-
dance of monthly roses.

It has often been a disputed point whether flow-
er-gardens should be intersected with gravel walks
or with grass plots. ‘This must be left entirely to
the taste and means of the party forming a garden.
Lawn is as wet and melancholy in the winter
months, as it is beautiful and desirable in summer;
and it requres great care and attention in mowing
and rolling, and trimming round the border. Gravel
walks have this advantage: the first trouble is the
last. ‘They will only require an old woman’s or a
child’s assistance in keeping them free from weeds ;
and a lady has not the same fears of taking cold,
or getting wet in her feet, during the rains of au-
tumn and spring.

Many females are unequal to the fatigue of bend-
ing down to flowers, and particularly object to the
stooping posture. In this case, ingenuity alone is
required to raise the flowers to a convenient height ;
and, by so doing, to increase the beauty and pic-

16 RUSTIC STAGES.

turesque appearance of the garden. Old barrels
cut in half, tubs, pails, &c., neatly painted outside,
or adorned with rural ornaments, and raised upon
feet neatly carved, or mounds of earth, stand in
lieu of richer materials, such as vases, parapet
walls, and other expensive devices, which orna-
ment the gardens of the wealthy. I have seen
these humble materials shaped into forms as pleas-
ing to the eye, and even more consonant to our
damp climate, than marble vases. They never
look green from time, and are renewed at a very
trifling expense. A few pounds of nails and the
un barked thinnings from fir plantations, are the
sole requisites towards forming any device which a
tasteful fancy can dictate ; and a little ereen paint
adds beauty and durability when the bark falls
from the wood it protects. I have seen fir balls
nailed on to these forms in tasteful patterns ; and
creepers being allowed to fall gracefully over the
brims, give a remarkably pleasing and varied ap-
pearance to the parterre.

Where mould is not easily to be procured—as,
for instance, in towns—the tubs or receptacles
may be half filled with any kind of rubble, only
space must be left to allow of two feet of fine
mould at the top, which is quite sufficient for bulb-
ous roots, creepers, &c. ‘These receptacles have
one powerful advantage over ground plots: they.
can be moved under sheds, or into outhouses,
during the heavy rains or frosts of winter; and
thereby enable a lady to preserve the more delicate
flowers, which would deteriorate by constant ex-.
posure to inclement weather.

A lady requires peculiar tools for her light work.
She should possess a light spade; two rakes, one

LADIES’ GARDEN TOOLS. 7

with very fine teeth, and the other a size larger,
for cleaning the walks when they are raked, and
for raking the larger stones from the garden bor-
ders. A light garden fork is very necessary to
take up bulbous or other roots with, as the spade
would wound and injure them, whereas they pass
safely through the interstices of the fork or prong.
A watering-pot is indispensable, and a hoe. ‘Two
trowels are likewise necessary: one should be a
tolerable size, to transplant perennial and biennial
flower roots ; the other should be pointed and small,
to transplant the more delicate roots of anemones,
bulbs, &c.

The pruning-knife must be always sharp, and, in
shape it should bend a little inwards, to facilitate
cutting away straggling or dead shoots, branches,
é&c. The “ avroncator,” lately so much in request,
is an admirable instrument; but it is expensive,
and of most importance in shrubberies, where
heavy branches are to be cut away. ‘The Sieur
Louis d’Auxerre, who wrote a work upon garden-
ing in 1706, has a sketch of the avroncator of the
present day, which he designates as caterpillar
shears.

A light pair of shears, kept always in good
order, is necessary to keep privet or laurel hedges
properly clipped; and a stout, deep basket must be
deposited in the tool-shed, to contain the weeds
and clippings. ‘These are the only tools absolute-
ly essential to alady’s garden. I have seen a great
varlety decorating the wall of an amateur tool-
house, but they must have been intended for show,
not for use. A real artiste, in whatever profession
she may engage, will only encumber herself with
essentials. “All else is superfluous.

18 LADIES’ WORKING DRESS.

I have reserved two especially necessary recom-
mendations to the last, being comforts independent
of the tool-house. Every lady should be furnished
with a gardening apron, composed of stout Hol-
land, with ample pockets to contain her pruning-
knife, a small, stout hammer, a ball of string, and
a few nails and snippings of cloth. Have nothing
to do with scissors: they are excellent in the work-
room, but dangerous in a flower garden, as they
wrench and wound the stems of flowers. ‘The
knife cuts slanting, which is the proper way of
taking off slips; and the knife is sufficient for all
the purposes of a flower garden, even for cutting
string.

The second article which I pronounce to be in-
dispensable, is a pair of India rubber shoes, or the
wooden high-heeled shoes called ‘“ sabots” by the
French. In these protections, a lady may indulge
her passion for flowers at all seasons, without risk
of rheumatism or chills, providing it does not
actually rain or snow; and the cheering influence
of the fresh air, combined with a favorite amuse-
ment, must ever operate beneficially on the mind
and body in every season of the year.

19

C.H AFA Ry TT
ON LAYING OUT.

THERE are many modes of adorning a small piece
of ground, so as to contain gay flowers and plants,
and appear double its real size. By covering every
wall or palisade with monthly roses and creepers of
every kind, no space is lost, and unsightly objects
even contribute to the general effect of a ‘“ Plais-
aunce.” ‘The larger flowers, such as hollyhocks,
sunflowers, &c., look to the best advantage as a
back ground, either planted in clumps, or arranged
singly. Scarlet lychnis, campanula, or any second-
sized flowers, may range themselves below, and so
in graduated order, till the eye reposes upon a fore-
ground of pansies, auriculas, polyanthuses, and in-
numerable humbler beauties. Thus all are seen in
their order, and present a mass of superb coloring
to the observer, none interfermg with the other.
The hollyhock does not shroud the lowly pansy
from displaying its bright tints of yellow and pur-
ple; neither can the sturdy and gaudy sunflower
hide the modest double violet or smartly clad ane-
mone from observation. Each flower is by this
mode of planting distinctly seen, and each con-
tributes its beauty and its scent, by receiving the
beams of the sun in equal proportions.

If the trunk of a tree stands tolerably free from
deep overshadowing branches, twine the creeping

20 THE ROOT HOUSE.

rose, the late honeysuckle, or the everlasting pea
round its stem, that every inch of ground may be-
come available. The tall, naked stem of the young
ash looks well, festooned with roses and honey-
suckles. Wherever creeping flowering plants can
live, let them adorn every nook and corner, stem,
wall, and post: they are elegant in appearance,
and many of them, particularly clematis, are deli-
cious in fragrant scent.

If flowers are planted in round or square plots,
the same rule applies in arranging them. ‘The tall-
est must be placed in the centre, but | recommend a
lady to banish sunflowers and hollyhocks from her
plots, and consign them to broad borders against a
wall, or in clumps of three and three, as a screen
against the north, or against any unsightly object.
Their large roots draw so much nourishment from
the ground, that the lesser plants suffer, and the
soil becomes quickly exhausted. Like gluttons,
they should feed alone, or their companions will
Janguish in starvation, and become impoverished.
The wren cannot feed with the vulture.

The south end or corner of a moderate flower
garden should be fixed upon for the erection of a
root house, which is not an expensive undertaking,
and which forms a picturesque as well as a most
useful appendage to a lady’s parterre. ‘Thinnings
of plantations, which are every where procured at
a very moderate charge, rudely shaped and nailed
into any fancied form, may supply all! that is need-
ful to the little mclosure: and a thatch of straw,
rushes, or heather, will prove a sure defence to the
roof and back. There, a lady may display her
taste by the beauty of the flowers which she may
train through the rural frame-work. ‘There, the
moss-rose, the jessamine, the honeysuckle, the con~

CLASSES OF FLOWERS. 21

volvulus, and many other bright and beautiful flow-
ers, may escape and cluster around her, as she re-
ceives rest and shelter within their graceful lattice-
work. There, also, may be deposited the imple-
ments of her vocation; and during the severe
weather, its warm precincts will protect the finer
kinds of carnations, pinks, auriculas, &c., which
do not bear the heavy rains, or frost of lengthened
duration, without injuring the plant.

Flowers are divided into three classes :—an-
nuals, biennials, and perennials.

Annuals are those flowers which are raised from
seeds alone, in the spring, and which die in the
autumn. ‘They are again divided into three classes ;
the tender and more curious kinds; the less tender
or hardier kinds; and the hardiest and common
kinds.

Biennials are those flowers which are produced
by seed, bloom the second year, and remain two
years in perfection; after which they gradually
dwindle and die away.

Some sorts, however, of the biennials, afford a
continuation of. plants by offsets, slips, and cuttings
of the tops, and by layers and pipings, so that,
though the parent flower dies, the species are per-
petuated, particularly to continue curious double-
flowered kinds, as for instance, double rockets, by
root offsets, and cuttings of the young flower-stalks ;
double wallflowers by slips of the small top shoots ;
double sweet-williams by layers and pipings; and
carnations by layers.

Perennials are those flowers which continue
many years, and are propagated by root offsets,
suckers, parting roots, &c., as will be more fully
particularised under the head of Perennials.

3

a9 PLANTING OF BEDS.

It has been a debated point among florists, wheth-
er plots or‘baskets should be devoted each to a par-
ticular variety of flower, or receive flowers of dif-
ferent kinds, flowering at separate seasons. ‘Thus,
many ladies set apart one plot of ground for ane-
mones only—another plot receives only pansies,
and soon. ‘There is much to be said on both sides
the question.

If a plot of ground is devoted to one variety of
flower only, you can give it the appropriate mould,
and amuse your eye with its expanse of bright col-
oring. Nothing is more beautiful than a bed of
pansies, or a bed of the bright and glowing scarlet
verbina; nothing can exceed the gay Sal flaunty
tints of a bed of tulips, or the rich hues of the lilac
and the white petunia. A large space of garden
allows its possessor to revel in separate beds of
flowers, whose beauty is increased two-fold by
masses; and from that very space, the eye does
not so easily discover the melancholy appearance
of one or more plots exhibiting nothing but dark
mould, and withered stems, arising from: the earlier
sorts being out of bloom.

But in less spacious gardens, this gloomy and
mournful vacuum must be avoided. Every border
and plot of ground should exhibit a gay succession
of flowers in bloom; and that object can only be
effected by a pretty equal distribution of flowers of
early and late growth. As the May flowers droop,
the June productions supply their place ; and these,
again, are followed in succession, till the Golden
rod and Michaelmas daisy announce the decadence
of the parterre for the year.

Yet every flower may be supplied with its favor-
ite soil, with a little patience and observation. A

MONTHLY LIST. 23

light soil suits all descriptions very well; and I
never yet found disappointment in any description
of earth which was thoroughly well dug, and dress-
ed yearly from the mound of accumulated leaves
and soap-suds, alluded to in the first chapter. I
particularly recommend a portion of sand mixed
with the heap. All bulbs, carnations, pinks, auri-
culas, ranunculuses, &c., love a mixture of sand.
I know no flowers of the hardy class which reject
it. Mix sand well into your borders and plots, and
you will not fail to have handsome flowers.

I subjoin a list of common flowers appertaining
to each month, in order to fill the borders with one
or more roots of each variety. I do not include
the annuals.

JANUARY.

In this month the following flowers are in blow:—

Single Anemones Primroses
Winter Cyclamens Winter Hyacinth
Michaelmas Daisy Narcissus of the East
Hepaticas Christmas Rose

FEBRUARY,
Single Anemones Single yellow Gilliflower
Forward Anemones | Single Liverwort
Persian Iris Winter Aconite
Spring Crocus | Hepaticas

MARCH.

Bulbous Iris Jonquils
Anemones of all sorts Yellow Gilliflower
Spring Cyclamens Narcissus of several kinds
Liverwort of all sorts Forward Bears’-ears
Daffodils Forward Tulips
Crowfoots Single Primroses of divers
Spring Crocus colors

Hyacinths of all sorts

24 MONTHLY LIST.

APRIL.
Daisies Double Liverworts
Yellow Gilliflowers Primroses
Narcissus of all sorts Honeysuckles
Forward Bears’-ears Tulips
Spring Cyclamens Hyacinths
Crocus, otherwise called Saff- | Single Jonquils
ron-flowers Crown-Imperial
Anemones of all sorts Yeliow Gailliflowers, double
Iris and single
Pansies Pasque-F lowers
Datiodils March Violets
MAY.
Anemones Double Jacea, a sort of Lych-
Gilliflowers of all sorts nis
Yellow Gilliflowers Pansies

Peonies of all sorts
Asphodils Ranunculnses of all sorts
Orange, or flame-colored | Some Irises: as those which
Lilies we call the Bulbous Iyis,
Cyanuses of all sorts | and the Chame-Iris
Hyacinths Italian Spiderwort, a sort of
Day Lilies Asphodil
Bastard Dittany Poet’s Pinks

Columbines

Daisies Backward Tulips
Lily of the Valley Julians, otherwise called Eng-
Mountain Pinks lish Gilliflowers
JUNE.
Snap-dragons of all sorts Ylimbers
Wild Tansies Cyanuses of all sorts
Pinks, otherwise called Lych- | Foxgloves of all sorts
Irises [nises | Mountain Lilies
Roses Gilliflowers of all sorts
Tnberoses Monks’-hoods
Pansies Pinks of all sorts
Larkspur Candy-tufts
Great Daisies Poppies
JOLY.
Jessamine Pinks of the Poets
Spanish Broom Bee-ilowers

Basils Sea-hollies

Bell-fiowers
Indian Jacea
Great Daisies
Monks’-hoods
Pinks

Scabiuses
Nigellas
Cyclamens
Lobel’s Catch-flies
Lilies of all sorts
Apples of Love
Comfrey

Poppies
Snap-dragons
Double Marigolds
Amaranthuses
Hellebore
Ox-eyes

Oculus Christi,
called Starwort
Belvederes

Climbers of all sorts

Apples of Love
Marvels of Peru
Pansies
Ranunculuses
Double Marigolds
Candy-tufts

Autumn Cyclamens

Jessamines

MONTHLY LIST. 25

Foxgloves

Wild Poppies
Everlastings

Roses
Dittanies

Bindweeds

Lilies of St. Bruno
-Tricolors

Squills

Motherworts
Climbers

Oculus Christi
Camomile

Sunflowers
Belvederes ®
Gilliflowers of all sorts
Thorn-apple

Valerian

AUGUST.

Indian Narcissus
Foxgloves
Cyclamens
Passion-flowers
Everlastings
Tuberoses
Monks'-hood
Indian Pinks of all the kinds
Bindweed
Passvelours

| Great Daisies

White Bell-flower

Sunflowers, vivacious and | Autumnal Meadow Saffron

annual

Tricolors
Love-apples
Marvel of Peru
Monks’-hood

Narcissus of Portugal

Snap-dragons
Oculus Christi

Gilliowers

SEPTEMBER.

Amaryllis
Autumnal Narcissus
White Bell-flowers
Indian Pinks
Indian Roses
Amaranthus
Pansies

%

26 RABBITS A NUISANCE.

Basils Passion-flower
Belvederes Autumnal Crocus
Great Daisies Thorn-apple
Double Marigolds | Carnations
Monthly Roses Ranunculuses planted in May
‘Tuberoses Colchicums
OCTOBER. ?
Tricolors Pansies that were sown in
Oculus Christi August
Snap-dragons Passion-flower
Colchicums | Passvelours

Double Marigolds
Some Pinks
Amaryllis
Autumnal Narcissus

Autumn Crocus
Autumnal Cyclamens
Monks’-hood

Indian Pinks

NOVEMEER.

Double Violets

Single Anemones of all sorts
Winter Cyclamens

Forward Hellebore

Golden Rod

Snap-dragons .

Double and Single Gilliflow-
ers

Great Daisies

Pansies sown in August

Monthly Roses

Rabbits are an intolerable nuisance in a flower
garden, and in some country places they abound
most destructively. A light wire fence about two
feet high, closely lattice-worked, or a net of the
same height, carried round the garden, is a sure
defence from these marauders. But where these
conveniences are unattainable, there are other
modes which answer the purpose, but they require
a little trouble and patience.

It is the well-known nature of Rabbits and
Hares to dislike climbing or entangling their feet ;
and very simple inventions deter them from at-
tempting to gnaw the roots and hearts of flowers.
They will not walk upon straw or ashes strewed

SNAILS AND EARWIGS. Q7

thickly round any plant: they equally dislike a
fence of sticks placed round a plot, with bits of
white paper or card fastened to each stick; ora
string carried round the sticks a foot or two high.
If they cannot creep under a slight fence, they
never attempt to leap over it. Ifa stick is run into
the ground close to a plant, and other sticks are
slanted from the ground towards that centre, the
plant will remain untouched, be the frost of ever so
Jong duration.

_ Snails are disagreeable intruders, but the follow-
ing method is an exterminating war of short dura-
tion :—

Throw cabbage leaves upon your borders over
night; in the morning, early, you will find them
covered underneath with snails, which have taken
refuge there. Thus they are easily taken and
destroyed.

Earwigs are taken in numbers by hanging galli-
pots, tubes, or any such receptacle, upon low sticks
in the borders over night. In these they shelter
themselves, and are consequently victimized in the
morning. ‘The gallipots, broken bottles, &c. should
be placed upon the stick lke a man’s hat, that the
vermin may ascend into them.

Ants are very great enemies to flowers; but I
know no method of attacking them, except in their
own strongholds, which I have always done with
cruel intrepidity and success. My only plan was
to lay open the little ant-hill, and pour boiling water
upon the busy insects, which destroyed at once the
commonwealth, and the eggs deposited within the
mound. In some places ants are extremely large

28 MILDEW AND BLIGHT.

and abundant, and they quickly destroy the beauty
of a flower, by attacking its root and heart.*

Mildew and blight infest roses and honeysuckles.
Soap-suds thrown over rose-bushes, heavy water-
ings with tobacco-water, or the water in which po-
tatoes have been boiled, is successful in a degree,
but the best way is a very troublesome one to per-
severe in. Pinch every leaf well which curls up,
by which you may know a small maggot is depos-
ited therein. By so doing you destroy the germ of
a thousand little monsters.

Mildew and blight come from the east; there-
fore honeysuckles should be sheltered from that
aspect ; for, as they rise and spread widely, they
are not so manageable as a rose-bush. A mass of
Juxuriant honeysuckles is beautiful to the eye and
delicious in fragrance ; but covered with mildew, it
is a blackened and miserable object. Mildew, for-
tunately, does not make its appearance every
spring; but once in four or five years it comes as
a plague, to desolate the garden. A great deal
may be raked away, if taken off as soon as it
spreads its cobweb over these lovely flowers ; but
it should be done without delay.

I cannot lay too great stress upon the neatness in
which a lady’s warden should be kept. If it is not
beautifully neat, it is nothing. For this reason,
keep every plant distinct in the flower- beds ; let
every tall flower be well staked, that the wind } may

*'The Emperor Pagonatus, who wrote a treatise upon
agriculture, assures us, that to clear a garden of ants, we
should burn empty snail shells with storax wood, and throw
the ashes upon the ant-hills, which obliges them to remove.
I never tried this method.

DEFINITION OF TERMS. 29

not blow it prostrate ; rake away dead leaves from
the beds, and trim every flower-root from discolored
leaves, weeds, &c.; remove all weeds and stones
the moment they appear, and clear away decaying
stems, which are so littering and offensive to the
eye. There is always some employment of this
kind for every week in the year.

Old iron rods, both large and small, are to be
procured cheap at the ironmongers. These old
rusty rods, painted green, or lead color, are excel-
lent stakes for supporting flowers, and do not wear
out. ‘The slighter rods are very firm, upright sup-
porters for Carnations, Pinks, &c., while the taller
and larger rods are the firmest and best poles for
hollyhocks, sunflowers, and the larger class of
plants. Fix the flower stem to its stake with string,
or the tape of the bass matting, soaked in water to
prevent its cracking, and tie it sufficiently tight to
prevent the wind tearing it from its position. ‘Tie
the large stems in three places for security.

The term Deciduous, applied to shrubs, signifies
that they shed their leaves every winter.

Flerbaceous plants, signify those plants whose
roots are not woody, such as stocks, wallflowers,
&ec. &c.

Fibrous-rooted plants, are those whose roots
shoot out small fibres, such as Polyanthuses, vio-
lets, &c.

Tuberous-rooted plants, signify these roots which
form and grow into little tubes, such as Anemones,
Ranunculuses, dec.

30

PERENNIALS.

Perennials are flowers of many years’ duration ;
and they multiply themselves most abundantly by
suckers, offsets, parting the roots, &c. They re-
quire little trouble beyond taking care to renew the
soil every year or twoby a somewhat plentiful sup-
ply from the compost heap; and by separating the
offsets, and parting the roots in autumn, to strength-
en the mother plant. When the flowers are past
and the stems have decayed, then the operation may
take place. Choose a showery day for transplant-
ing the roots, or give them a moderate watering to
fix them in their fresh places. When you trans-
plant a flower root, dig a hole with your trowel suf-
ficiently large to give “the fibres room to lay freely
and evenly in the “ground,

I have, throughout my little work, laid great
stress upon possessing a heap of compost, ready to
apply to roots and shrubs every spring and autumn.
Wherever the soil is good, the flowers will bloom
handsomely ; and no lady will be disappointed of
that pleasure, if a compost heap forms one essen-
tial, in a hidden corner of the flower garden. If
you raise your perennials from seed, sow it in the
last week in March, in a bed of light earth, in the
open ground. Letthe bed be in a genial, warm sit-
uation, and divide it into small compartments ; a
compartment for each sort of seed.

Sow the seed thin,—and rake or break the earth
over them finely. Let the larger seed be sown
half an inch deep, and the smaller seed a quarter of
aninch. Water the beds in dry weather often with
a watering pot, not a jug. ‘The rose of the water-

CARNATIONS AND PINKS. ou

ing pot distributes the water equally among the
seedlings ; whereas, water dashed upon them from
a jug falls in masses, and forms holes in the light
earth, besides prostrating the delicate seedling.

About the end of May, the seedlings will be fit
to remove into another nursery bed, to gain strength
till October; or be planted at once where they are
to remain. Put the plants six inches apart, and
water them moderately, to settle the earth about
their roots.

But it is rarely required to sow seed for perennial
plants,—they multiply so.vigorously and quickly of
themselves, by offsets ; and cuttings may be made
of the flower stalks in May and June in profusion.

The double Scarlet lychnis, and those plants
which rise with firm flower stems, make excellent
cuttings, and grow freely when planted in moist
weather. Double Rockets, Lychnidea, and many
others succeed well.

Carnation and pink seedlings must be taken great
eare of. ‘They will be ready to plant out about
the middle of June, and as imnumerable varieties
spring from sowing seed, they should be planted
carefully in a bed by themselves six inches asun-
der, and they will flower the following year, when
you can choose the colors you most approve. Car-
nations properly rank under the head of biennials ;
but pinks are strictly perennial plants, and much
has been written upon this hardy and beautiful
flower. It comes originally from a temperate cli-
mate, therefore the pmk loves shade; the fervid
sunbeams cause its flowers to languish and droop.
You may give them an eastern aspect.

Be careful to watch pinks when they are bud-
ding, and do not allow two buds to grow side by

oe QUALITIES OF PINKS.

side. Pinch off the smaller bud, which would
only weaken its companion. Keep the plants free
from decayed leaves, and gently stir the earth round
them occasionally with your small trowel. This
operation refreshes them. Stake them neatly, that
they may not fall prostrate after rain.

If you wish to preserve any particular pink, let
it grow in a pot, or upon a raised platform, that it
may be placed beyond the reach of hares, rabbits,
or poultry, and be more easily sheltered from long
and severe frost or rains in winter, and from the
dry heats in summer, either of which destroys the |
beauty of the flower. ‘The pots can be sunk in the
ground in fine weather. Do not hide your pinks
among larger flowers; let them be distinctly seen.
If you water pinks too much, their roots become rot-
ten; and if you suffer them to be too dry, they be-
come diseased. Beware of extremes. The best
rule is to keep them just moist. A fine pink should
not have sharp-pointed flower leaves; they should
be round and even at their edges, and the colors
should be well defined, not running one into the
other. The flower should be large ; it should pos-
sess a great many leaves, and form a sort of dome.
Piping and slipping is the most expeditious mode
of propagating plants from any selected pink.

Pansies, violets, &c. are very easily propagated
by parting the roots when the fiowers are past.
Pansies are very beautiful flowers ; and cuttings of
their young shoots will grow very freely if kept
moist and shaded for some little time. By refresh-
ing the soil every year, you insure large flowers.
Pansies and violets bloom early in the spring.

Hepaticas must be parted like violets. They ap-
pear so very early in the year, that no garden should

SPRING FLOWERS. 33

exist without these gay and modest flowers. The
leaves appear after the flower has past away.

The Polyanthus blooms among the early tribe.
In planting this flower, be careful to insert the roots
deep in the soil, so that the leaves may rest upon
it, for the roots are produced high upon the stem,
and those roots must be enabled to shoot into the
soil. The polyanthus, like almost every other
flower, loves a good soil, with a mixture of sand.

In dividing these fibrous-rooted perennial plants,
take only the strong offsets, with plenty of fibres
attached to them.

Polyanthuses, auriculas, double daisies, double
camomile, London pride, violets, hepaticas, thrift,
primroses, gentianella, &c., succeed well, taken up
and divided in September, for they will all have
done flowering by that time. Indeed, all perennial
fibrous-rooted plants may be taken up in October,
to have their roots parted, and the soil refreshed
round them.

Peonies, and all knob-rooted plants, should be
taken up in October, to part their roots and trans-
plant them to their intended positions.

The saxifrage has very small roots, which are
apt to be lost in borders, if not very carefully look-
ed after. Like the anemone, &c., sift the earth
well for them.

Dahlias require a word or two upon their cul-
ture. They love sand, therefore allow them plenty
of it, but do not put manure to their roots, which
throws them into luxuriant leaf and stem, to the
deterioration of the flower. Peat mould is good, if
you can obtain it, to mix with the sand, as it assists
the flower in developing stripes and spots. ‘Train
each plant upright, upon one stem only, and give

4

34 SPRING FLOWERS.

it a strong stake to support its weight, which soon
succumbs under gusts of wind. Plant them in
open and airy places. When the stems become
black, take them up,—separate the roots, and
plunge them into a box of ashes, barley chaff, or
sand, to protect them through the winter. Plant
them out in May.

Dahlias grow from cuttings, which require care
and a hot-bed to do well, but they multiply them-
selves very sufficiently without that trouble.

It is a great perfection to see every tall plant ina
flower-garden well staked, and trimmed from dead, |
stragcling shoots. Let no branches trail upon the
border, but, as in the case of Chrysanthemums, cut
away the lowest branches or shoots, that each plant
may stand erect and neat in its order, without in-
termeddling in its neighbor’s concerns. ‘There will
be plenty of employment alk through the summer in
watching the growth of your plants, in cutting away
decayed stems, and trimming off dead leaves. Let
nothing remain in the flower’s way after the bright-
ness of its bloom has past by ; cut off the droeping
flower before it runs to seed, which only tends to
weaken the other flowers, and leave only the finest
flower to produce seed on each plant.

Perennials grow remarkably fine always in new-
ly turned-up sround, but they gradually degenerate,
if they are allowed to remain above two years with-
out replacing the substance they have exhausted in
the soil. Add every year to that substance, by lib-
eral supplies from the compost heap.

Be careful to multiply your supply of jasmines,
honeysuckles, &c., by cuttings in their due season.

I subjoin a list of the hardier sorts of fibrous-
rooted Perennials, eligible to adorn a garden, from.

HARDY PERENNIALS.

which my readers may stock their borders.

30
At the

end of my work, however, I shall add a long list of
plants alphabetically arranged.

LIST OF HARDY PERENNIALS.

Aster, or Starwort
Large blue Alpine
Common Starwort, or Mi-
chaelmas Daisy
Early Pyrenean
Blue Italian Starwort
Catesby’s Starwort
Dwarf narrow-leaved Star-
wort
Midsummer Starwort
Autumnal White Starwort,
with broad leaves
Tripolian Starwort
Divaricated-branched
Virginian Starwort, with
spiked blue flowers
Early blue Starwort
Rose Starwort
Latest Starwort, large blue
flowers
New England Starwort
Red flowering
Apocynum, Dogsbane
Red-flowering
Orange-colored
Synian
Arum, Italian large-veined
leaf
Asclepias, Swallow-wort
White
Yellow
Astragalus, Milk-vetch
Alysson, White
Yellow
Violet
Borage, the Eastern
Bachelor’s Button
Double red

Double white
Double ragged Robin
Campanula, or Bell-flower
Double blue
Double white
Double blue, and white
nettle-leaved
Caltha, double-flowered
Marigold
Cassia of Maryland
Pinks, double pheasant’s eye
Dobson
Deptford
Cob white
Red cob
White stock
Damask
Mountain
Matted
Old man’s head
Painted lady
Clove pink,and many other /
varieties
| Stock July flower, the Bromp-
ton

Double Scarlet Brompton

Single scarlet

Purple

White Brompton

Queen stock

Purple double

Striped double

Single of each sort

Twickenham stock
Lichnidea, early blue

Spotted-stalked, with pur-

ple spikes of flowers
Virginia, with large umbels

36

Low trailing purple
Carolina, with stiff shining
leaves, and deeper pur-
ple flowers
Cyanus, broad-leaved
Narrow-leaved
Lychnis, or Campion
Single scarlet lychnis
Double scarlet lychnis
Catchfly, double flowers
Hepaticas, single white
Single blue
Single red
Double red
Double blue
Lieria, toad flax
Purple
Yellow
Bee Larkspur
Fraxinella, white
Red
Gentiania, great yellow
Gentianella, blue
Globularia, blue daisy
Fox-glove, red
White
Tron-colored
Perennial Sun-flower
Double yellow and several
other species
Cyclamen, red
White
Goldy Locks
Chelone, white
Red
Lily of the Valley, common
Double-flowering
Solomon’s Seal, single
Double
Filapendula, or Dropwort
Columbines, common blue
Double red
Double white
Double striped

HARDY PERENNIALS.

Starry, double and single
Early-flowering Canada

-Thalictrum, feathered colum-

bines
Pulsatilla, blue Pasque flower
Orobus, bitter vetch
Sarifrage, double white
Thick leaved
Purple
Veronica, upright blue
Dwarf blue
Hungarian
Blush
Golden Rod, many species
Valerian,red garden Valerian
White garden
Rudbekia, American
flower
Dwarf Virginia, with large
yellow flowers
Dwarf Carolina, with nar-
row red reflexed petals,
and purple florets
Virginia, with yellow rays
and red florets
Tall yellow, with purple
stalks, and heart-shaped

sun-

leaves
Taller, with yellow flowers
and large five-lobed

leaves, and those on the
stalks single
Tallest yellow, with nar-
rower leaves, which are
all of five lobes
Pulmonaria, Lungwort
Common
American
Monarda, purple
Scarlet
Ephemeron, Spider-wort, or
flowers of a day
White
Blue

HARDY PERENNIALS. ot

/acea, American knapweed Hen and chicken, white
Primrose, double yellow and red
Double scarlet Dahlias, many varieties
White Peony, double red
Polyanthus, many varieties Double white
Auriculas, many varieties Double purple
Violets, double blue Male, with large single
Double white flowers
Double red Sweet smelling Portugal
Russian Double rose-colored
Banksia Silphium, bastard Chrysan-

Violet the major
London-pride, or None-so-
pretty
Day-lily, red
Yellow |
Fumitory, the yellow
White | Greater Dalmatian iris
Bulbous-rooted There are several other
American forked varieties of Irises, all
Aconite, Monk’s-hood, or very hardy and very
Wolf’s-bane beautiful plants.

themum
Tris, Fleur-de-lis, or flags
The German violet colored
Variegated, or Hungarian,
purple and yellow
Chalcedonian iris

Blue monk’s-hood Cardinal Flowers, scarlet
Yellow Blue
White Rocket, double white

Wholesome wolf’s-bane Balm of Gilead, sweet-scent-
Winter Aconite ed; must be sheltered in
Hellebore, or Bear’s foot winter.

Common black hellebore |! Everlasting Pea

Green-flowered Eupatorium, several varieties
White Hellebore Eryngo, blue
Christmas Rose White
Geranium, Crane’s-bill Mountain, purple and vio-
Bloody crane’s-bill let
Blue There are some other va-
Roman rieties.
Bladder-cupped Snap Dragon, or Calf’s snout
Daisies, common double red Red
garden daisy White
White Variegated
Double variegated Moth Mullein
Cock’s-comb daisies, white | Angelica
and red Asphodelus, King’s spear

4*

38 HARDY PERENNIALS.

Lupins, perennial, blue-flow- | Large yellow-flowered
ered Tradescantia, or Virginia spi-
Ononis, Rest-har derwort |

The Saxifrage is propagated by cuttings and off-
sets, which the roots produce abundantly, Take
the offsets and plant them out in August. ‘The
double white saxifrage is a beautiful flower, and
blooms early in the spring. The pyramidal saxi-
frage is a very handsome decorative flower, but it
must be planted in little clumps to make a showy
appearance.

October is the busy month for transplanting and
removing the offsets of all perennial and biennial
plants. “In this month every flower of summer has
passed away, and the garden is free to receive all
new arrangements in its future dispositions. Gold-
en rod, Michdelmias daisies, everlasting sun-flower,
and other branching plants, will require taking up
every four years, to part the main root into separate
plants, and replace them in the ground again.
Peonies, lilies of the valley, fraxinellas, monk’s-
hood, flag-leaved irises, &c., must be increased or
removed when required. All this is most effectu-
ally done in October.

In the same month, finish all that is to be effect-
ed among the perennial tribe. Campanulas, lych-
nises, polyanthuses, violets, aconites, cyclamens,
gentianella, yellow gentian, double daisies, hepati-
cas, saxifrage, &c., must be attended to, and prop-
agated, by dividing the roots, before October closes.
November is the season of fogs and severe frosts :
if a lady is prudent, she will perform all these need-
ful operations in October, and November will have
no alarms for her.

All the double-flowering plants, such as double

HARDY PERENNIALS. 39

sweet-william, double rockets, double scarlet lych-
nis, &c., should be placed in sheltered situations in
October, to weather out the storms of winter.
Double flowers are very handsome, and deserve a
little care.

The most charming little perennial flower which
can adorn a lady’s garden, is the scarlet verbena,
but itis very difficult to preserve through the winter.
Its beauty, however, repays the care which may be
bestowed upon it. This tender plant—the only
really tender root which [ admit into my work—is
not only desirable from its fine, full scarlet blos-
soms, but it blooms from Apri! to November. ‘The
scarlet verbena loves a rich, light, dry border or
bed, in a sunny situation; they delight also in rock-
work, where they have been known to exist through
the winter. Plant the roots about six inches apart
in the middle of April, and keep pegging down the
shoots as they throw themselves along the bed. A
profusion of flowers and plants are produced by this
means. A bed or border sloping to the south is
the best situation for the scarlet verbena.

40

CHAPTER III.

BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS—
PERENNIALS.

I sHALL give the bulbous and tuberous-rooted flow-
ers a chapter to themselves. ‘They are the earliest °
treasures of the flower-garden, and deserve especial
notice. There was a period when two hundred
pounds was offered for a hyacinth root, and even
the enormous sum of six hundred pounds was given
for a Semper Augustus tulip, by the Dutch tulip
fanciers. But though a few florists are still par-
ticularly nice with respect to their bulbs, the time
is past for paying such splendid prices; and such
an inexhaustible variety offer themselves to our no-
tice now, that we are somewhat puzzled in making
a choice collection. Seed produces immense num-
bers yearly, and an infinite variety of new colors
in each species. The florist is lost in admiration |
of the magnificent blooms which meet the eye in
every flower-garden which is carefully attended to.

Bulbs love a mixture of garden soil and sand,
well mixed, and dug about two spades deep to
lighten it. Break the mould fine, and rake-the sur-
face even. Plant the bulbs four inches deep, and
let them be six inches apart, placing the bulb with
care into the dibbled hole, and pressing the earth
gently round each. All bulbs should be replanted
in September, and taken out of the ground when

TRANSPLANTING BULBS. 41

they have done flowering. When the leaves and
stems decay, dig them neatly up, in dry weather,
with your garden fork; take the offsets carefully
from the main root; spread them out to dry on a
mat, and put them in a cool, dry place to plant
again in September.

The common bulbs, such as Snowdrops, Crocuses,
&c., may be left two or three years untouched ;
but at the end of that period take them up, to sepa-
rate the offsets and small roots from the mother
plants. You can replant them immediately, taking
care to thin the clumps, and separate each root six
inches from its neighbor, that they may rise healthy,
and throw out fine blooms.

Narcissuses, Jonquils, and Irises, may also re-
main two years untouched; but if annually taken
up, they will flower finer, and for these reasons :

By taking up your bulbs as soon as their leaves
and stems decay, it not only allows you to separate
the offsets, which weaken the parent bulb, but it
prevents their receiving any damage from long
drought, or the equally destructive moisture of
heavy rains, which would set them growing again
before their time, and exhaust them. ‘The two or
three months in which they are laid by contributes
to their strength, by allowing them that period of
complete rest.

The autumn-flowering bulbs, such as the Colchi-
cums, the Autumnal Crocus, the yellow Autumnal
Narcissus, &c., should be taken up in May or early
in June, when they are at rest. Transplant them
now, if you wish to remove them; part the offsets,
and plant them six inches apart. If you keep them
out of the ground, put them in a dry, shady place
till the middle of July or August, when you must
plant them again, to blow in the autumn.

42 PROPAGATION OF

Be careful to take up bulbs as soon as the leaves
decay. If they are incautiously left in the ground
beyond that period, they begin to form the bud for
the next year’s flowers ; and the check of a re-
moval would injure them. ‘They might produce
flowers in due time, but they would be weakly.

The little offsets will not flower for a year or
two. They may be consigned to a nursery-bed to
remain for that time, in order to swell and strength-
en by themselves.

If you wish to procure new varieties from seed,
it must be sown in August. The healthiest flower-
stalks should be chosen, and deposited in pots or
boxes of fine light earth, for the convenience of re-
moving under shelter in wet or frost. Keep the
pots or boxes in the shade during the heats, but, as
the cold weather advances, remove them to a warm
sheltered spot. Litter will shelter them from the
frost, if you cannot command any other covering.
The plants will appear early the following May :
they must be kept very clear from weeds, and be
moderately watered in dry weather. ‘These seed-
lines must be transplanted every summer to be
thinned, and placed farther apart from each other,
till they blow, when they may be removed into the
flower-beds.

This method is troublesome, and requires pa-
tience. ‘Tulip seedlings are seven years before
they flower, and a lady may find her patience se-
verely tried in waiting for their blooms. Seven
years 1s a large portion of human life. If you can
persevere, however, you will be rewarded by beau-
tiful varieties of new colors and stripes.

Fine tulips should have six leaves, three on the
outside and three on the inside, and the former

BULBOUS PLANTS. 43

should be broader than the latter. The stripes
upon the tulip should also be defined and distinct,
not mixing with the ground tints.

Hyacinth seedlings are four years before they
flower: this is not so harassing a period as the
Tulip requires ; but every pleasure has its counter-
balance. If you will have fine flowers, you must
wait for them. These bulbs love a sunny situation.

The Orchis tribe prefer a moist ground and a
northern aspect. Columella says, that when orchis
bulbs are sown in autumn, they germinate and bear
flowers in April.

The Colchicums or nareissus are hardy bulbs,
and will srow in any sort of ground; only, the bet-
ter the soil i is, the firrer they will flower.

The Guernsey Lily and Belladonna will not
thrive in the open ground, therefore it is needless
to speak of those very splendid flowers.

The Lily of the valley, though seéarcely to be
classed among the lily tribe, is a beautiful flower,
and as fragrant as it is lovely. They must be mul-
tiplied by dividing the roots, which should be part-
ed with a knife, as they are very intricate: do this
in December. Plant them three inches deep in
the ground, and disturb them as little as you can
help, as they do not like to be often moved. They
are larger in their flowers when grown in the
shade, but they are sweeter in perfume i in the sun’s
full rays. Thin, broad leaves are sufficient shelter
to the flowers.

All bulbs love salt: be careful, therefore, to throw
a portion of common salt or brine upon your com-
post heap. My cousin, Cuthbert W. Johnson,
Esq., in his “ Observations on the Employment of
Salt,” quotes a passage in a letter addressed to him

44. SALT MANURE

by Mr. Thomas Hogg, the eminent florist, upon the
advantages of salt in the cultivation of flowers. I
will transcribe it here :—

‘From the few experiments that I have tried with salt as a
garden manure, fam fully prepared to bear testimony to its
usefulness, Ina treatise upon flowers, published about six
years since, I remarked, that the application of salt, and its
utility as a manure, was yet imperfectly understood. Itis a
matter of uncertainty, whether it acts directly as a manure,
or only as a kind of spice or seasoning, thereby rendering
the soil a more palatable food for plants.

“Phe idea that first suggested itself to my mind, arose
from contemplating the successful culture of hyacinths in
Holland. This root, though not indigenous to the country,
may be said to be completely naturalized in the neighborhood
of Haerlem, where it grows luxuriantly ina deep, sandy,
alluvial soil: yet one great cause of its free growth, I con-
sidered, was owing to the saline atmosphere: this induced
me to mix salt in the compost; and [am satisfied that no
hyacinths will grow well at a distance from the sea without
it. Iam also of opinion, that the numerous bulbous tribe of
Amaryllisses, especially those from the Cape of Good Hope,
Ixias, Aliums, which include Onions, Garlic, Shalots, &c.,
Anemonies, various species of the Lily, Antholyza, Colchi-
cum, Crinum, Cyclamens, Narcissus, Iris, Gladiolus, Ranun-
culus, Scilla, and many others, should either have salt or sea
sand in the mould used for them.

‘“T invariably use salt as an ingredient in my compost for
carnations; a plant which, hike wheat, requires substantial
soil, and all the strength and heat of the summer, to bring it
to perfection; and I believe I might say, without boasting,
that few exce} me in blooming that flower.”

Colchicums, the Autumnal Narcissus, Amaryllis,
and the Autumn Crocus, should be planted in Au-
gust, to blow in September and October.

Replant all the bulbous tribe by the end of Octo-
ber, at the latest. Choose a mild, dry day to put
them in the ground, and let each bulb be six or nine
inches distant from its companion. All bulbs be-
come weak by being placed too closely together,
the soil becoming soon exhausted.

NECESSARY FOR BULBS. 45

Bulbs of the more choice varieties are better at-
tended to if they can be placed in beds or compart-
ments by themselves; for they are more easily
sheltered from frost and rain when in a body.
The eye, also, is more delighted by the beautiful
variety en masse. ‘Their favorite soil, too, can be
composed and preserved for them more exclusively,
unexhausted by the roots of larger plants around
them. Some of the commoner sorts can be plant-
ed out in patches, to add to the gay appearance of
the borders, among the spring flowers.

Martagons, orange lilies, and bulbs of tall growth,
should never be planted among the smaller tribe ;
their large bulbs would exhaust the soil, and weak-
en the smaller flowers. ‘They look very handsome
in borders and plots, placed near or in their centre.

LIST OF BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS.

Amaryllis, comprising the au- , bluish flower and golden
tumnal yellow Narcissus stigma, which is the saf-
Spring ditto fron
Crocus vernus, or spring-flow- | Commonautumnal crocus,
ering crocus with deep blue flowers
Common yellow | ‘With light blue flowers
Large yellow | Many flowered
Yellow, with black stripes | Snowdrop, the small spring
White flowering
White, with blue stripes Common single
Blue, with white stripes Donble
Deep blue Leucojum, or great summer
Light blue snowdrop
White, with purple bottom Great summer snowdrop,
Scotch, or black and white | with angular stalks; a
striped foot high, and two or
Cream-colored three flowers in each
Autumnal flowering Crocus, sheath
of the following varie- Faller great snowdrop,
ties :— with many flowers

True saffron crocus, with

)

46

Ornithogalum, or Star of
Bethlehem
Great white pyramidal,

with narrow leaves

White, with broadsword-
shaped leaves spreading
on the ground

Yellow

Pyrenean, with whitish-
green flowers

Star of Naples, with hang-
ing flowers

Umbeilated, producing its
flowers in umbels, or
spreading bunches, at
the top of the stalk

Low yellow umbellated

Erythronium, dens canis, or
dog’s tooth

Round-leaved, with red
flowers

Same, with white flowers

The same, yellow

Long narrow-leaved, with
purple and with white
flowers

Grape hyacinth

Purple

Blue

White

Musk hyacinth

White

Ash-colored

Blue feathered hyacinth

Purple |

Musky, or sweet-scented,
with full purple flowers

The same, with large pur-
ple and yellow flowers

Great African Miuscaria,
with — sulphur-colored
flower

Fritillarva, chequered tulip

Early purple, variegated,

or cheqnered with white |

BULBOUS AND

Black, chequered with yel-
low spots

Yellow, chequered with
purple

Dark purple, with yellow
spots, and flowers grow-
ing in an umbel

Persian lily, with tall stalks,
and dark purple flowers
growing in a pyramid

Branching Persian lily

Corona Imperialis, crown im-

penal, a species of Fri-
tillaria

Common red

Common yellow

Yellow-striped

Sulphur-colored

Large-flowering

Double of each variety

Crown upon crown, or
with two whorls of
flowers

Triple crown upon crown,
or with three tiers of
flowers, one above an-
other

Gold-striped leaved

Silver-striped leaved

Tulip, early dwarf tultp

‘Tall, or most common tulip

Early, yellow and red
striped

White and red striped

White and purple striped

White and rose striped

Tall, or late-flowering, with
white bottoms, striped
with brown

White bottoms,striped with
violet or black brown

White bottoms,striped with
red or vermilion

Yellow bottoms, striped

TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS.

with different
called Bizarres
Double Tulip, yellow and red
White and red
Gladiolus, corn flag, or sword

hly, common, with sword
shaped leaves, and a red-
dish purple flower ran-
ged on one side of the
stalk

The same,
flowers

Italian,with reddish flowers
ranged on both sides of
the stalk

The same,
flowers

Great red of Byzantium

Narrow grassy-leaved, and
a fiesh-colored flower,
with channelled, long,
narrow, four-angled
leaves, and two bell-
shaped flowers on the

colors,

white

with

with white

stalk
Great Indian
Anemone, wood anemone,

with blue flowers
White flowers
Red flowers
Double white
Garden Double Anemone, with
crimson flowers
Purple
Red
Blue
White
Red and white striped
Red, white, and purple
Rose and white
Blue, striped with white
Ranunculus, ‘Turkey, with a
single stalk, and large

double blood-red flower

Yellow-flowered

47

Persian, with branching
stalks, and large double
flowers of innumerable
varieties, of which there
are,—

Very double flowers

Semi, or half double

(The double are most beau-
tiful, propagated by off-
sets.)

Pancratium, sea daffodil

Common white sea Narcis-
sus, with many flowers
ina sheath, and tongue-
shaped leaves

Sclavonian, with _ taller
stems and many white
flowers, and sword-sha-
ped leaves

Broad-leaved American,
with large white flowers,
eight or ten in a sheath

Mexican, with two flowers

Ceylon, with one flower

Moly (Aillium,) species of
garlic, producing flowers

Broad-leaved yellow

Great broad-leaved, with
lily flowers

Broad-leaved, with white
flowers in large round
umbels

Smaller white umbellated

Purple

Rose-colored

Fumaria bulbosa, or bulbous-
rooted fumitory

Greater purple

Hollow-rooted

American, with a forked
flower

Narcissus, or daffodil, com-
mon double yellow daf-
fodil

Single yellow, with the

48

middle cup as long as the
petals

White, with yellow cups

Double, with several cups,
one within another

Common white narcissus,
with single flowers

Double white narcissus

Incomparable, or great
nonsuch, with double
flowers

With single flowers

Hoop petticoat narcissus,
or rush-leaved daffodil,
with the middie cup
larger than the petals,and
very broad at the brim

Daffodil, with white reflex-
ed petals, and golden
cups

White daffodil, with purple
cups

Polyanthus Narcissus, having
many small flowers ona
stalk, from the same
sheath. Of this are the
following varieties :—

White, with wh'te cups

Yellow, with yellow cups

White, with yellow cups

White, with orange cups

White, with sulphur-color-
ed cups

Yellow, with orange cups

Yellow, with sulphur-color-
ed cups

With several intermediate
varieties

Autnmnal narcissus

Jonquil, common single

Large single

Common double

Double, with large round
roots

BULBOUS AND

Lilium, the lily, common

white lily

With spotted or striped
flowers

With double flowers

With striped leaves

White lily, with hanging or
pendent flowers

Common orange lily, with
large single flowers

With double flowers

With striped leaves

Fiery, bulb-bearing | lily,
producing bulbs at the
joints of the stalks

Common narrow-leaved

Great broad-leaved

Many-flowered

Hoary

Martagon lily, sometimes
called Turk’s-cap, from
the reflexed position of
their flower - leaves. —
There are many varie-
ties, and which differ
from the other sorts of
lilies in having the petals
of their flowers reflexed,
or turned backward,—
The varieties are,

Common red martagon,
with very narrow sparsed
leaves, or such as grow
without order all over
the flower stalk

Double martagon

White

Double white

White spotted

Scarlet, with broad sparsed
leaves

Bright red, many-flowered,
or pompony, with short,
grassy, sparsed leaves

TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 49

Reddish hairy martagon,
with leaves growing in
whorls round the stalk

Great yellow, with pyra-
midal flowers, spotted

Purple, with dark spots,
and broad leaves in
whorls round the stalk,
or most common Turk’s
cap

White spotted Turk’s cap

Canada martagon, with yel-
lowish large flowers spot-
ted, and leaves in whorls

Campscatense martagon,
with erect bell-shaped
flowers

Philadelphia martagon,

with two erect bright

purple flowers

Squills, sea onion, or lily hya-
cinth, common lily hya-
cinth, with a lily root
and blue flower

Peruvian, or broad-leaved
hyacinth of Peru, with
blue flowers

With white flowers

Early white starry hyacinth

Blue

Autumnal starry hyacinth

Larger starry blue hyacinth
of Byzantium

Purple star-flower of Peru

Italian blue-spiked _ star-
flower

Asphodel lily, African blue,

with a tuberous root

Tuberose, or Indian tuberous

hyacinth. It producesa

small stem three or four

feet high, adorned with

many white flowers of

great fragrance.

5*

The varieties are,—
Fine double tuberose
Single tuberose
Small-flowered
Striped-leaved

Iris bulbosa, or bulbous iris,

Persian, with three erect
blue petals called stand-
ards, and three reflexed
petals called falls, which
are variegated, called
Persian bulbous iris, with
a variegated flower

Common — narrow-leaved
bulbous iris, with a blue
flower

White

Yellow

Biue, with white falls

Blue, with yellow falls

Greater broad-leaved bulb-
ous iris, with a deep blue
flower

Bright purple

Deep purple

Variegated

Great, with broad and al-
most plain or flat leaves,
with blue flowers

Purple

Of the above there are
many intermediate varie-
ties

Hyacinth, eastern, with large

flowers. Of these there
are many varieties, and
of whick there are in-
numerable intermediate
shades or tints of color,

Of double sorts there are—

Blues

Purple blues

Agatha blues

Whites

50

Whites, with yellow eyes

Whites, with red eyes

Whites, with violet or pur-
ple eyes

Whites, with rose-colored
eyes

Whites, with scarlet eyes

Reds

Incarnate,
coiored

Of single sorts there are—

Blues, of various shades, as
above

Whites

Reds

Rose-colored

With many intermediate
shades or varieties

(Muscaria,) or musk hya-
einth

Ash-colored

White

Obsolete purple

Greater yellow African

Grape hyacinth

Purple

Blue

White

Red

Monstrous flowering, or
blue-feathered hyacinth

Comosed, or tufted purple
hyacinth

Amethystine blue hyacinth

Nodding, spiked, red hya-
cinth

Non-script, small English
hyacinth, or harebells, of
the following varieties:

Common, with blue flow-
ers arranged on one side
of the stalk

White

Bell-shaped blue hyacinth,

flesh or rose-

BULBOUS

a Ee ee

Cyclamen,

AND

with flowers on every
side of the stalk

Bell-shaped peach-colored,
with fiowers on one side
of the stalk

These are very hardy, prop-
agating by offsets

Hyacinth, with a pale pur-
ple flower

Colchicums in variety
Leontice,

lion’s leat, largest
yellow, with single foot-
stalks to the leaves

Smaller pale yellow, with
branched footstalks to
the leaves

sow-bread, Euro-
pean, or common au-
tuinn-flowering, with a
purple flower, and angu-
lar heart-shaped leaves

The same, with a black
flower

The same, with white flow-
ers

Red spring-flowering, with
heart-shaped leaves,mar-
bled with white

Entire white, sweet-smell-
ing

Purple winter-flowering,
with plain or circular
shining green leaves

Purple round-leaved au-
tuinn-flowering

Small, or anemone-rooted,
with flesh-colored flow-
ers appearing in autumn:
these plants have large,
round, solid roots; the
flowers and leaves rise
immediately from the
root.

FIBROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 51

Corona Regalis, or royal | Aconite, the winter
crown; requires shelter | Sisyrinchium
in the winter.

AURICULA, RANUNCULUS, ANEMONE.

These early and beautiful flowers deserve pecu-
liar notice, for no garden looks well without them,
and their bright tints delight the eye and mind.
The commonest kinds are handsome and useful in
small clumps, and a little care and trouble will
raise superb varieties.

The Auricula loves a soil composed of kitchen-
garden mould, sand, and cow-dung, well mixed to-
gether; they also like a cool situation. The seed
should be sown in September, and when sown give
it a gentle watering. By sowing the seed in pots
or boxes, you can remove them from heavy rains,
&c., without trouble, and shelter them in the out-
houses or tool-house. ‘The seed seldom appears
under six months, and it has been sometimes a
twelvemonth producing itself, therefore be not in
despair, but remain patient: these freaks of Nature
cannot be accounted for. When they flower, you
must single out the plants which bear the finest and
most choice blooms, and transplant them into pots
filled with the compost above described. ‘The com-
mon sorts may be planted in the borders, to remain
out and shift for themselves. By keeping the fine
auriculas in pots, you preserve them through the
winter easily, for heavy rains and cutting winds do
them harm. Youcan sink them in their pots during
summer in the flower-beds, but let them be shelter-
ed during the winter, if you wish to preserve the
blooms uninjured.

Auriculas multiply also by suckers, which grow

52 THE AURICULA AND RANUNCULUS.

on their roots. Take off these in February, and
plunge them into pots of the mould they like best,
to root freely. ‘They will do so in two months.
Auriculas should not be too much watered, as it
makes them look sickly, and the leaves become
yellow. When you pot the auriculas, sink them up
to their leaves in the soil, but do not press the mould
round the plant, as the flowers bloom finest when
the roots touch the sides of the flower pot.

The auricula is esteemed fine that has a low
stem, a stalk proportioned to the flower, the eye
well opened, and always dry. The glossy, the
velvet, and the streaked auriculas are the most ad-
mired. ‘The stalk should be decked with many
flower-bells, to be handsome and healthy.

Take care to pull off all dead leaves round the
plant at all times, that it may appear neat and clean.
Neatness is favorable to its perfect growth, as well
as decorating it to the eye.

The Ranunculus does not hke being mixed up
with other flowers, and from this “ aristocratic
principle,” it is always planted in separate knots.

This flower loves sun and warmth. ‘The root
must be planted in September, to bloom early in the
summer, and it delights ina rich, moist soil, well
dug, and raked soft and fme. When you plant
them in beds or pots, they must be sunk two inches
deep, and dibble the hole with a round, not pointed,
dibble. Place the roots four or five inches apart,
in the warmest situation in your garden. By plant-
ing ranunculuses in pots, you can more easily place
them in warm situations, and withdraw. them from
heavy rains. ‘The more room you give these roots
the finer they will grow and blow. If your plots
will allow of so doing, let the roots be planted six

RANUNCULUSES AND ANEMONES. 55

or seven inches apart. The flowers will repay
your care. When ranunculuses in pots have flow-
ered, remove them from the August rains, or take
up the roots, to replant in September.

The Ranunculus with the double white flower
must not be taken up until September, when it
should-be taken up quickly, its roots parted, and
replanted immediately.

The yellow Ranunculus with the rue leaf, pre-
fers being potted to being planted in beds.

The Ranunculus propagates by seed as well as
offsets. Sow the seed as you do that of the
auricula.

The most admired ranunculuses are the white,
the golden yellow, the pale yellow, the citron-color-
ed, and the brown red. ‘The red is the least es-
teemed. The yellow ranunculus speckled with
red, is handsome,—also the rose-color with white.
inside.

Great varieties are obtained by seed.

The Anemones love a light soil, composed of
kitchen-garden mould, and sand, and leaf mould,
well mixed, and sifted fine. It should, if possible,
be composed a year befere it is used; the lighter
it is the better for anemones.

The seed should be sown in September. The
single flowers alone bear seed, which is fit to gath-
er when it appears ready to fly away with the first
gust of wind. As soon as the seed is lodged, and
raked smoothly into its fine, light bed, strew the
bed over with straw or matting, and give it a good
watering. In three weeks the seed will begin to
rise, when the straw may be removed. ‘The young
plants will flower in the following April.

When the roots are to be planted in September,

54 BIENNIAL FLOWERS.

sink them about three inches deep, and six inches
apart, that they may come up strong and flower
well. Make a hole in the ground for them with
your finger, and set them upon the broadest side,
with the slit downwards.

Those anemones planted in September will flow-
erin March and April, and the roots planted in
May, flower in autumn, but the flowers are never
so fine.

When anemones have done flowering, it requires
some care in taking up the roots, in order to part
and put them by till the time for replanting arrives.
The roots or flaps are so small and difficult to dis-
tinguish, that the earth should be taken up and laid
upon a sieve to be sifted, when the flaps will alone
remain behind, or the earth may be deposited upon
an open newspaper or cloth, and well rubbed with
the hand to feel for the minute, dark-colored flaps,
which may easily escape observation.

The beauty of this flower consists in its thick-
ness and roundness, especially when the great
leaves are a little above the thickness of the tuft.

Choose your seed from the finest single ane-
mone, with a broad, round leaf.

The remaining tuberous-rooted flowers are very

hardy.
Biennials.

Biennial flowers, as the name implies, are plants
that exist only two years. ‘They are propagated by
seed, rising the first year, and flowering the second.
If they continue another year, they are sickly and
languid. ‘The double biennials may be continued
by cuttings and slips of the tops, as well as by lay-
ers and pipings, though the parent flower dies—but

LIST OF HARDY BIENNIALS. 55

they are not so fine. A lady should have a space
of ground allotted to biennial seedlings, so that a
fresh succession of plants may be ready to supply
the place of those which die away. ‘The seeds
should be sown every spring in light, well-dug
earth; the young plants should be kept very clean,
and some inches apart from each other; and they
must be finally transplanted in autumn into the
beds where they are intended to remain.

But there is a great uncertainty as to raising the
double flowers ; therefore it is better to make sure
of those you approve by perpetuating them as long
as you can, by any root offsets they may throw off;
by pipings, cuttings, or by layers, as before noticed.
I subjoin a list of the principal and useful biennials.

LIST OF HARDY BIENNIALS.

Canterbury Bells Poppy, Yellow-horned ( Che-
Blue-flowered lidonium glaucum )
White Rocket, Dame’s violet
Purple Single white
Pyramidal Double white

Carnation. All the varieties, | Double purple

somewhat biennial-pe- | Single purple
rennial. Rose Campion

Clary, Purple-topped Red
Red-topped White

Colutea, A.thiopian Scabius, double

French Honeysuckle Dark purple-flowered
Red Dark-red
White White

Globe Thistle Starry purple-flowered.

Hollyhocks. Somewhatbien- | Starry white
nial-perennial; all the Jagged-leaved starry
varieties; always by | Stock Gilliflower
seed. Brompton

Lunaria, Moonwort or Hon- Queen

_esty Twickenham

Mallow (Tree) Sweet-william

56 HARDY BIENNIALS.

Red Common upright tall yel-
Scarlet low
Purple Small-flowered
Red, white-bordered Wall-flower
Party-colored Y ellow-flowered
Variegated Bloody
Painted Lady White
Double of each Double of each
Mule, or Mongrel Sweet- | Night Stock
william, or Mule Pink Petunia
Tree Mallow (Lavatera ar- White
borea ) Lilac

Tree Primrose

When you make your seedling-bed or nursery,
cover it over with straw, or fern, or matting, during
frost ; and to prevent the birds pecking up the
seeds, it is requisite to protect the bed by strewing
light boughs of thorn bushes over it, or fixing a net
upon sticks as a cov ering, till the plants appear. If
cats, dogs, or poultry intrude into the flower-garden,
it is in vain to hope for enjoyment.

Sow your biennial seeds in March, April, or
May. I recommend May, because the young
plants in that month germ and vegetate quickly,
surely, and without requiring defences from the
frost. Plant them out in October, with a ball of
earth to each root, where they are to remain.

The Stock Gilliflowers in particular, having long,
naked roots, must be planted out very young, ‘other-
wise they do not succeed well.

Honesty is a very early, rich-flowering biennial,
which requires no care; they shed their seed, rise,
and flower without any assistance, in profusion.
The only trouble is to weed it out of the beds, that
they may not stand in the way of other flowers.

Canterbury Bells are handsome flowers, and will
bloom a long time if you cut off the bells as they
decay.

CARNATIONS. Bd

The deep crimson Sweet-williams are most es-
teemed, though every variety looks well.

Sweet-williams may be increased by layers and
cuttings, which is the only sure way of securing
the sorts you like; for you may sow seed every
year, and not one in a thousand will reward you by
coming up double.

Carnations are the pride of a garden, and de-
serve great care and attention. ‘I‘he common sorts,
which are planted in borders, should have a good
rich earth about them, and be treated like the pink ;
but the finer sorts should always be potted, to pro-
tect and shelter the plant from hares, rabbits,
heavy rains, and severe frost in the winter. Re-
fresh the top of the pots with new soil in June,
and keep the plants free from decayed leaves.
Gently stir the earth round each plant occasion-
ally ; and as plants in pots require more water than
if placed in the ground, let the carnations be gently
moistened about every other day during dry weath-
er. Let the watering take place in the evening;
no flower will endure being watered during the
heat of a summer’s day. Carnations love sand and
salt in proper proportions. ‘The brine which is de-
posited upon the compost heap, will answer every
purpose of salts, (if it be regularly carried out,)
without adding common salt: but let this be par-
ticularly attended to. ‘The cook should deposit her
pickle and brine to good purpose upon the compost
heap, instead of splashing it down in front of her
kitchen door.

Let each plant be well staked, and neatly tied to
its supporter; and do not allow two buds to grow
side by side upon the same stem, for one will
weaken the other. Pinch off the smaller bud.

6

58 HOLLYHOCKS.

Carnations love warmth; therefore give them a
sunny aspectto blow in. ‘The seedling plants may
be treated like young pinks, but this difference
must be observed;—pinks love shade, and carna-
tions love warmth. A bed of carnations is a beau-
tiful object. ‘The pots can always be sunk in a
border or bed in fine weather. Carnations may be
layered, or piped, or slipped for propagation.

Water your carnations in pots once a week with
lime water, if they appear drooping, for this pro-
ceeds ae a worm at the root; but the brine will
destroy all insects quickly, when poured upon the
compost heap.

In propagating double Wall-flowers, take slips
of the young shoots of the head: this will perpet-
uate the double property and color of the flower,
from which they were slipped. In saving seed for
wall-flowers, choose the single flowers, which have
five petals or flower leaves. Double flowers have
no seed.

Water the slips, and keep them shady and moist:
they will root by September.

Plant your Hollyhocks in September or October,
where they are to remain. Hollyhocks are a noble
flower, and they love a strong soil. Let a succes-
sion of these flower plants be attended to in the
biennial seed-bed. Keep them some inches apart
from each other in the seedling-bed, for they form
large straggling roots. ‘The hollyhock looks well
in clumps of three, at a good distance apart, in
large gardens or shrubberies, but they are some-
what too overgrown for smaller parterres.

Be particular in gathering your seeds on a fine,
dry day, and put each sort m a separate brown
paper bag till you require them. The very finest

BIENNIALS. 59

seedlings are, after all, those which spring near
the mother plant from self-sown seed, therefore,
when you weed or dig your flower borders, be
careful not to disturb any seedlings which may
have sprung up. They always make strong, fine
blooming plants.

Take care of your double-flowering plants in
winter. ‘The double wall-flower is hardy enough
to exist in the borders, but the other double bien-
nials deserve to be sheltered, for double flowers are
very handsome, and heavy rains, snow, or severe
frost, injure them. ‘Take cuttings every year from
them.

The Night Stock is tolerable hardy if sheltered
during the frost by ashes or litter. ‘The sweetness
after night-fall must recommend it to all lovers of
fragrant flowers.

PROPAGATING BIENNIALS.

Every young lady must become acquainted with
the manner of operating upon plants, to preserve
the finer sorts, which they may wish to perpetuate.
Raising from seed is slow, but it produces infinite
variety. You, however, rarely see the same flower
produced twice from seed; therefore you must
propagate the biennial and perennial flowers by
layers, slips, pipings, and cuttings, if you wish to
preserve any particular sorts.

To effect layers, prepare some rich, light earth,
a parcel of small hooked sticks, or little pegs, and
a sharp penknife.

_ Now clear the ground about the plant you are
going to layer; stir the surface well with your
trowel, and put a sufficient quantity of the pre-

60 LAYERS AND PIPINGS.

pared mould round the plant as will raise the surface
to a convenient height for receiving the layer.

Cut off the top of each shoot with your knife,
about two inches, and pull off the lower leaves;
then fix upon a joint about the middle of the shoot,
and, placing your knife under it sl¢ the shoot from
that joint, rather more than half way up, towards
the joint above it.

Now make an opening in the earth, and lay the
stem, and slit or gashed shoot, into it, and peg it
down; taking care to raise the head of the shoot
as upright as you can, that it may grow shapely ;
then cover it with the new mould, and press the
mould gently round it. Do this by each shoot till
the plant is layered—that is, till every shoot is laid
down. ‘They must be watered often in dry weath-
er, but moderately, not to disturb or wash away the
soil round the layers. In six weeks’ time, each
gashed or slit shoot will have rooted, and become a
distinct plant. ‘They may be taken away from the
old parent stem in September, and dug up with a
ball of earth round each root, to be transplanted
into the plots or borders where they are to remain.

Carnations, pinks, sweet-williams, double wall-
flowers, &c., are the flowers most deserving of
layers.

Piping, which belongs almost exclusively to car-
nations and pinks, is a most expeditious mode of
raising young plants.

‘Take off the upper and young part of each shoot,
close below a joint, with a sharp knife, and cut
each off at the third joint, or little knob; then cut
the top leaves down pretty short, and take off the
lower and discolored ones. When you have piped
in this way as many as you require, let them stand

PROPAGATING BIENNIALS. 61

a week in a tumbler of water, which greatly facili-
tates their doing well. Indeed, I never failed in
any pipings, slips, or cuttings, which I allowed to
soak and swell in water previous to planting.
When you plant the pipings, let the ground be nice-
ly dug, and raked very fine; dibble no hole, but
gently thrust each piping half way down into the
soft earth, slightly pressing the earth round each, to
fix it inthe bed. Water them often if. the weather
is dry, but moderately, just to keep them moist;
and shade them from the hot sun in the day. If
pipings are covered with a hand-glass, they root
earlier, by three weeks, than those which are ex-
posed.

Laying, piping, and slipping, are done in June
and July. ‘The plants will be well rooted, and fit
to plant out in October.

The operation of slipping is easy. Tear the top
shoots of the plant to be so propagated, gently from
their sockets ; hold the shoot between your finger
and thumb, as near the socket as you can, and it
will tear as easily and neatly as you carve the wing
of poultry or game. Place the slips in water for a
few days previous to planting them, like pipings.
They will root in six weeks or two months, if kept
shady and moist.

Cuttings must be made of shoots of the last year’s
growth of roses, honeysuckles, &c., and planted in
February. Choose the strong shoots, and do not
cut them less than six incheslong. Cut them with
your knife in a slanting direction. Plant them in
a shady place, each cutting half way in the ground,
which should be cleaned, and well dug and raked,
to receive them. Cuttings made in February, will
root well by October.

6*

62 PROTECTION FOR CUTTINGS.

Cuttings of flower stalks, such as scarlet lychnis,
should be done in May, June, and July. ‘Take cut-
tings from the youngest flower stems, and plant
them carefully in nice mould, like pipings. These
flower cuttings should be in lengths of four joints
each. Covering them with a hand-glass raises
them very quickly. ‘They root in two months.

Where hand-glasses are not to form any part of
a lady’s arrangements, oil-papered frames are equal-
ly useful. I have seen very economical and useful
frames made of bamboo, in the form of hand-glass-
es, covered neatly with glazed white cotton or linen,
or horn paper, made by a lady with great celerity
and ingenuity; and her cuttings and pipings suc-
ceeded under them admirably. Whatever shelters
cuttings and pipings from the rays of the sun,
effects a material purpose. Linen is the best shel-
ter in the world from heat, but oiled or horn paper
resists rain better.

Dr. Priestley is of opinion that salt water is very
efficacious for cuttings, if they are placed in it for
a few days previous to planting. He remarks that
it is a custom with the importers of exotic plants,
to dip cuttings in salt and water, otherwise they
would perish on the passage.

63

CHAPTER. TV.
ANNUALS.

Awnva.s, as I have observed before, are flowers
that rise, bloom, and die in the same year; and
must therefore be raised from seed every spring.

The first class of annuals, being very delicate,
and requiring great care, with the constant assist-
ance of glass frames, I shall not even name, since
they do not enter into the nature of my work.

I proceed to the second class, which are hardier
than the above, though they should be raised in a
warm border, and be covered with a hand-glass, if
you wish them to flower in good time.

The ten weeks’ Stocks will grow, if sown in a
warm border, towards the end of March, and
should be afterwards transplanted; but if brought
up ina hot-bed, they will flower a month or six
weeks earlier.

The China-aster, Chrysanthemum, white and
purple Sultan, African and French Marigolds, Per-
sicarias, &c., will grow well in a warm border of
natural earth, if sown in April; but they also flow-
er a month earlier if they are assisted by a hot-bed
or glass. These annuals must be all planted out
when tolerably strong, into the spots where they
are destined to remain in the borders, taking care
to allow each plant plenty of space, that they may
not crowd each other. ‘The China-aster branches

64 SOWING ANNUALS.

into many stems and flowers, therefore they may
be planted singly, or not less than six inches apart.
The July flowers, or more commonly called gilli-
flowers, become expansive as they increase. ‘They
should not be crowded together; three in a group
are quite sufficient, and they should be six inches
apart. ‘The same may be said of the stock varie-
ties.

I have ever found the hardy annuals grow finest
by allowing them to become self-sown. They
flower some weeks earlier, and invariably produce
larger and brighter flowers.

When gathering my flower seeds in August and
September, I allow one half to remain sprinkled
over the borders ; and the young plants never fail
appearing healthy and strong above ground in
March and April, the months appropriated to sow-
ing the seed. Thus, my Lavateras, Larkspurs,
&c., are in beautiful blow, while the second crop,
or seeds sown in spring, are but showing their
green heads above the surface. I weed away the
superfluous self-sown plants to my taste; but the
birds take care that no one shall be encumbered
with superfluity. I have by this means a first and
second crop of the same annuals, but the crop of
self-sown are far superior. ‘They are up before
the heats come on to dry the earth, and dwindle
the flower.

Dig the ground well with your trowel, and rake
it very fine, before you put in the seeds in spring.
Annuals love a light, friable soil. All the hardy
kinds may be sown in March, each sort in little
separate patches, as follows :—

Draw a little earth off the top to one side, then
sprinkle in the seed, not too plentifully, and cover

ANNUALS. 65

it again with the drawn-off earth. Half an inchis
sufficient depth for small seed. ‘The larger kind,
such as sweet-peas, lupins, &c., must be sown an
inch in depth. When the plants have been up
some time, thin them well. ‘The more space you
have, the finer the plants will rise.

The hardy annuals will not bear transplanting :
they must be left to flourish where they are sown.
The large kinds, such as the lavatera or mallow,
should only be sown in groups of three plants to-
gether. ‘The lupin tribe should not exceed five
plants in a group. The Convolvulus, also, requires
four or five plants only in a group. Water the
patches in dry weather moderately, and be careful
never to use pump water. If you have no soft
water, a tub should be placed in the garden to re-
ceive rain water; and if, as in towns, pump water
must be chiefly used, let it remain a day or two in
the tub, to soften in the air and sunshine.

The first week in April is the safest period for
sowing annuals, as the cutting winds have ceased
by that time, and frost is not so much to be appre-
hended. ‘The soft rains, also, fallin warm showers,
to give life and germ to seeds and plants, and they
appear in a shorter space of time.

Those ladies who live in the vicinity of nursery
gardens, have a great advantage over the more re-
mote flower-fanciers. They can be supplied, at a
trifling expense, with all the tender annuals from
hot-beds, either in pots, or drawn ready for imme-
diate transplanting.

If you do not raise your own seed, be careful
how you purchase your stock, and of whom you
receive it. Many seedsmen sell the refuse of
many years’ stock to their youthful customers, and

66 SWEET-PEAS.

produce great disappointment. There is one way
of ascertaining the goodness of the seed, which
will not deceive. Previous to sowing, plunge your
lupin, sunflower, &c. seeds into a tumbler of water :
the good seed will sink, while the light and useless
part remains floating on the surface.

If you grow your own seed, exchange it every
two years with your neighbors. Seeds love change
of soil: they degenerate, if repeatedly grown and
sown upon the same spot, particularly sweet-peas.

Sweet-peas should be put into the ground early
in March, for they will bear the wind and weather.
Make a circle round a pole, or some object to which
they may cling as they rise; and put the peas an
inch deep, having soaked them previously in water
well saturated with arsenic, to guard them from the
depredations of birds and mice. Add an outer cir-
cle of peas every month, so that a continual bloom
may appear. ‘The circle first sown will ripen and
pod for seed in the centre, while the outer vines
will continue flowering till late in the autumn.
When you have gathered a sufficient number of
ripe pods, cut away all the pods which may after-
wards form, with your knife. ‘This strengthens
the vines, and throws all their vigor into repeated
blooms.

Be very careful to throw away the arsenic water
upon your heap of compost, and do not put that
powerful poison into any thing which may be used
afterwards in the house. Soak the peas in a flow-
er-pot saucer, which is never required for any other
purpose, and keep it ona shelf in the tool-house,
covered up. ‘Three or four hours’ soaking will be
sufficient. If the wind and frosts be powerful and
continued, shelter the peas through March, by cov-
ering them with straw or matting every evening.

:
ANNUALS. 67

I have got sweet-peas into very early blow by
_bringing them up in pots in-doors, and transplanting
them carefully in April, without disturbing the
roots. In doing this, push your finger gently
through the orifice at the bottom of the flower-pot,
and raise its contents “bodily.” Then place the
ball of earth and plants into a hole trowelled out to
receive it; cover itround gently, and, if the weath-
er is dry, water it moderately.

Ten-weeks’ stock is a very pretty annual, and
continues a long time in bloom. Mignionette is
the very sweetest of all perfumes, and should be
sown in September for early blowing, and again in
March for a later crop. It is always more perfumy
and healthy, if dug into the ground in autumn to
sow itself. Venus’ Looking-glass is a very pretty,
delicate flower. Indeed, every annual is lovely ;
and the different varieties give a gay and rich ap-
pearance to the flower-garden during the three
summer months.

The Clarkias are very pretty annuals, with a
hundred other varieties lately introduced, and which
are all specified in Mrs. Loudon’s new work upon
annuals. My plan is, to give a general idea of
their treatment only, under the classification of
hardy annuals, or those annuals which may be nur-
tured without a hot-bed.

Keep your annuals from looking wild and disor-
derly in a garden, by allotting the smaller kinds
their separate patches of ground; and trim the
larger annuals from branching among other flowers.
For instance, cut away the lowest branches of the
China-aster, the African marigold, &c., and train
the plant erect and neatly to a slight rod or stick;
cut away the flowers as they droop, reserving one

/

68 LIST OF ANNUALS.

or two of the finest blooms only for seed; and let
each plant look clean and neat in its own order.
By cutting away flowers as they droop, the plant re-
tains vigor enough to continue throwing out fresh
flowers for a long period.

SECOND, OR LESS TENDER CLASS OF ANNUALS.

African Marigold, the orange | Gourds, the round, smooth

Yellow orange
Straw-colored Rock, or warted
Double of each Pear-shaped yellow
Double-quilled Pear-shaped striped
French Marigold, the striped Stone-colored
The yellow Bottle Gourd, some very
Sweet-scented large, from two or three
China-aster, the double to five or six feet long,
Double purple and of various shapes
Double white Momordica Balsamina
Double-striped Persicaria
Marvel of Peru,the red striped | Indian Corn, the tall
Yellow-striped Dwarf
Long-tubed Nolana Prostrata, blue
Chrysanthemum, the double | Convolvulus, scarlet-flowered
white Yellow Balsam, or 'Touch-me-
Double yellow not
Double-quilled Capsicum, long red-podded
Sweet Sultan, the yellow Long yellow-podded
White Red, short, thick, roundish
Red podded
Indian Pink, double With heart-shaped pods
Single With cherry-shaped fruit,
Large imperial red
Alkekengt Cherry-shaped fruit,yellow
Palma Christi, the common | Basil, the common, or sweet-
Tall red-stalked scented
Smaller green-leaved Bush basil
Smallest Zinnia, red
Tobacco, long-leaved Virginia | Yellow
Broad-leaved Amaranthus
Branching perennial Tree Amaranthus
Love Apple, with red fruit Prince’s feather amaran-

With yellow fruit thus

HARDY ANNUALS.

Love-lies-bleeding amaran-
thus
Cannacorus, yellow
Red
Chinese Hollyhock, the varie-
gated
Ten-week Stock Gilliflower
The double red
Double white

69

Double purple
White Ten-week Stock, with a

wallflower leaf

With double and single
flowers

The double of this sort
makes a pretty appear-
ance

The following are hardy annuals, requiring no
assistance of artificial heat, but should all be sown
in the places where it is designed they shall flower :

Adonis Flower,or FlosAdonis,
the red-flowering
The yellow
Candytuft, the large
Purple
White
Larkspur, the double rose
Double-branched
Large blue double
Double white
Lupins, the rose
Large blue
Small blue
Yellow
White
Scarlet
Marbled
Sunflower, the tall double
Double dwarf
Lavatera, red
White
Poppy, the double tall striped
carnation
Dwarf-striped
Double corn poppy
Horned poppy
Convolvulus, major
Minor
Striped

White
Scarlet
Ketmia, bladder
Starry Scabious
Hawkweed, the yellow
Purple, or red
Spanish
Carthamus tinctorius, or saf-
fron-flower
Nasturtium, the large
Small
Cerinthe major, or great Ho-
ney-wort
Tangier Pea
Sweet Pea, the painted lady
The purple
White
Scarlet
Winged Pea
Crown Pea
Nigella, or devilin a bush, the
long blue, or Spanish
The white
Oriental mallow, curled
Venetian mallow
poi Catchfly, white and
re

Arbiscus
Pimpernet

70 HARDY

Dwarf Lychnis
Venus’s Navel-wort
Venus’s Looking glass
Virginian Stock
Strawberry Spinach
Noli me tangere, or toucn me-
not
Heart's Ease
Snail Plant
Large ditto
Caterpillar Plant
Hedgehog Plant
Antirrhinum,
the annual
Nolana, blue
Cyanus, or corn-bottle, the
red
White
Blue
Roman Netile
Belvidere, oy summer cypress
Garden, or common Marigold,
the common single
Donovle orange
Double lemon-colored

snap-dragon,

ANNUALS.

Double lemon-colored ra-
nunculus marigold
Annual Cape Marigold, with
a violet and white flower
Mignionette, or reseda, the
sweet-scented
The upright
Xeranthemum, or eternal flow-
er, red and white
Purple Clary
Purple Jacobea
Dracocephalum, the purple
Blue
Capnoides, or bastard fumi-
tory
Ten-week Stock Gilliflowers,
in variety
Persicaria
Tobacco Plant
Long-leaved
Round-leaved
Indian Corn
Amethyslea
Globe Thistle
Clarkias

71

CHAPTER V.
ROSES AND JASMINES.

THESE most delicious, most elegant flowers—in
themselves a garden—are worthy of a chapter de-
voted exclusively to their culture. What cottage
exists without its roses twined around the door-
way, or blooming up its pathway? What is senti-
ment without its roses? What other flower illus-
trates the beauty and excellence of a loved one ?—

“Oh! my love is like the red, red rose,
That sweetly blows in June.”

Every gentle feeling, every exquisite thought, every
delicate allusion, is embodied in the rose. It is
absurd to say the rose by any other name ‘“ would
smell as sweet.” Itis not so. Poetry, painting,
and music, have deified the rose. Call it “ nettle,”
and we should cast it from our hands in disgust.

There are innumerable varieties of roses, from
the cottage rose to the fairy rose, whose buds are
scarcely so large as the bells of the lily of the
valley. Mrs. Gore mentions some hundreds of
sorts, but such a catalogue is too mighty to insert in
my little work. I will name only the well-known
hardy kinds, and refer my reader to Mrs. Gore her-
self for the complete collection. Seed yields such
inexhaustible varieties, that a new list will be re-
quired every ten years.

The Damask rose is very useful from its proper-
ties, as well as its beauty and hardihood. Rose-

72 ROSES.

water is distilled from this bright, thickly-blowing
flower.

The Cabbage rose is the most beautiful, as well
as the most fragrant of roses. All others are vari-
eties of roses, but this grand flower is the “ rose
itself.”

It throws out suckers plentifully for propagating
its kind; and every two or three years, the root of
each bush will part into separate plants. Cut the
roots slanting with a sharp knife as you divide
them. A very small bit of root is sufficient for a
rose-bush, as they are hardy in their nature. Do
not move roses oftener than you can help: they
delight in being stationary for years.

In pruning roses of every description, which
should be effected in January, shorten all the shoots
to nine inches only, and cut away all the old wood,
which becomes useless after two or three years’
growth. ‘This treatment ensures fine flowers.

Roses love a good soil, as, indeed, what flower
does not? Fresh mould applied to them every two
or three years, or manure dug round them annually,
preserves them in constant vigor and beauty.

Shoots of rose-bushes laid down and pegged like
layers, only without gashing, when the flowers are
in bloom, will root and become plants in the autumn.
Pinch off their buds, that they may throw their —
strength into their roots.

Roses are often observed to change their color,
which effect proceeds chiefly from bad soil. When
this occurs, manure the root of the bush or plant.
A clay soil, well dressed with ashes, is the best of
all soils for the hardy roses.

Moss roses love a cool soil and a cool aspect.
They soon fade in a hot sun.

ROSES. ie;

The origin of this exquisitely beautiful variety,
the Moss Rose, is thus fancifully accounted for:

The Angel of the Flowers, one day,
Beneath a Rose Tree sleeping lay,

That Spirit to whose charge is given

To bathe young buds in dews from heaven.
Awaking from his high repose,

The Angel whispered to the Rose:

“ O fondest object of my care,

Still fairest found where all are fair,

For the sweet shade thon’st given to me,
Ask what thou wilt, ’tis granted thee.”

Then said the Rose with deepening glow,
‘“On me another grace bestow.”

The Spirit paused in silent thought—
What grace was there that flower had not!
’T was but a moment—o’er the Rose

A veil of moss the Angel throws;

And robed in Nature’s simplest weed,
Could there a flower that Rose exceed!

A pyramid of climbing roses is a beautiful object
ina garden. Iron or wooden stakes, twelve feet in
height, gradually approaching each other, till they
meet at the top, with climbing roses trained up
their sides, is a pleasing and easily constructed
ornament. Fancy and taste may range at will in
inventing forms to ornament the parterre with roses,
Beds of roses, raised pyramidally, have a splendid
effect. When the flowers die away in the autumn,
the mass may be clipped again into form, with the
garden shears, as you would clip a laurel hedge.

Standard roses, which are so much in fashion at
this time, and which always remind one of a house-
maid’s long broom for sweeping cobwebs, are be-
yond a lady’s own management, as budding is a
troublesome business, and very frequently fails. I
will not, therefore, touch upon that subject.

i ;

74 ROSES.

The double yellow rose is very elegant. It re-
quires a western aspect, and even prefers north and
east, but a warm aspect injures its beauty. It loves
a good substantial soil, and will not bear much cut-
ting or removing. Let it alone in its glory, only
pruning away the old scraggy wood occasionally,
to strengthen the plant.

The monthly rose is also a lover of the north and
east. It blooms through the autumn and winter,
has an evergreen leaf, and loves a strong soil. It
must be propagated by cuttings, and parting the
roots, as it never throws up suckers. Prune away
the old wood, and make cuttings in June, July, and
August, of the branches you clear away. Plant
the cuttings in loose, moist earth, and do not let
them bud till the following year. Let the cuttings
be sunk two joints in the earth, leaving one only
exposed. ‘Ihe monthly rose climbs, or creeps.

The Austrian briar, or rose, will not flower if
exposed to the south. It bears a rich mass of
flowers, yellow outside, and deep red within. Give
it an eastern or western aspect.

The perpetual, or “ four-season” rose, requires a
rich soil. ‘The flower buds appearing in June and
July should be pinched off, and in winter the plant
may be pruned as closely as its hardier compan-
ions. Place the four-season rose in a sheltered sit-
uation from winds.

Among the hardy climbing roses, the Ayrshire
rose is the most useful. Its foliage is rich, and it
covers fences, walls, &c. with astonishing rapidity.
It flowers in July. Place it in a warm situation,
and it will extend thirty feet in one season.

Lady Banks’ yellow rose is a pretty climber, and
flowers early in all situations. So does the Rosa
sempervirens.

ROSES. 19

Climbing roses will grow luxuriantly under the
shade of trees, and form a mass of fragrant under-
wood in shrubberies. ‘They grow with surprising
vigor, if allowed to remain prostrate. Plant these
thinly, and lay in the most vigorous shoots, by peg-
ging them down into the ground. ‘This process in-
creases the plants rapidly, and gives the gayest
possible effect.

The Rosa hybrida multiflora is a hardy and rap-
idly growing rose. It flowers also from June to
September. So does the red and crimson Bour-
sault, and the Rosa Russeliana.

Roses are subject to the green fly, which dis-
figures their beauty, particularly the white roses.
An excellent remedy for this annoyance is effected
by moistening the plant, and then dusting it over
with equal portions of sulphur and tobacco dust.

Once, on a solemn festal day,

Held by the immortals in the skies,
Flora had summon’d all the deities,
That rule o’er gardens, or survey
The birth of greens or springing flowers,
And thus address’d the genial powers.

‘Ye shining graces of my courtly train,
The cause of this assembly know:
In sovereign majesty I reign
O’er the gay flowery universe below;
Yet, my increasing glory to maintain,
A queen I'll choose with spotless honor fair,
The delegated crown to wear.
Let me your counsel and assistance ask,
T’ accomplish this momentous task.”

The deities, that stood around,

At first return’d a murm’ring sound ;
Then said, “ Fair goddess, do you know
The factious feuds this must create?
What jealous rage, and mutual hate,

76 ROSES.

Among the rival flowers will grow?
The vilest thistle that infests the plain,
Will think his tawdry painted pride
Deserves the crown, and, if denied,
Perhaps with traitor plots molest your reign.”
«Vain are your fears,” Flora replied ;
“Ts fix’d, and hear how [Il the cause decide,

‘“« Deep ina venerable wood,

Where oaks, with vocal skill indued,
Did wond’rous oracles of old impart,
Beneath a little hill’s inclining side,

A grotto ’s seen, where Nature’s art
Is exercised in all her smiling pride.

“ Retired in this sweet grassy cell,
A lovely wood-nymph once did dwell:
She always pleased ; for more than mortal fire
Shone in her eyes, and did her charms inspire,
A dryad bore the illustrious nymph, a sylvan was her sire.

“‘Chaste, wise, devout, she still obey’d,
With humble zeal, Heaven’s dread commands,
Toev’ry action ask’d our aid,
And oft before our altars pray’d.
Pure was her heart, and undefiled her hands,

“‘ She’s dead, and from her sweet remains
The wond’rous mixture [ would take,
This much desired, this perfect flower to make;
Assist, and thus, with our transforming pains,
We’lldignify the garden beds, and grace our fav’ rite plains.”
Th’ applauding deities with pleasure heard,
And for the grateful work prepared.
A busy face Priapus wore ;
Vertumnus of the party too,
From various sweets th’ exhaling spirits drew ;
While in full canisters Pomona bore
Of richest fruit a plenteous store ;
And Vesta promised wond’rous things to do.
Gay Venus led a lively train
Of Smiles and Graces; the plump god of wine
From clusters did the flowing nectar strain,
And fill’d large goblets with his juice divine.

4

ROSES. 7 Ag

Thus charged, they seek the honor’d shade,
Where lived and died the spotless maid.

On a soft couch of turf the body lay:

Th’ approaching deities pass’d all around,
Prepared the sacred rites to pay
In silence, and with awe profound.

Flora thrice bow’d, and thus was heard to pray :—

“ Jove, mighty Jove, whom all adore,
Exert thy great creating power!
Let this fair corpse be mortal clay no more:
Transform it to a tree, to bear a beauteous flower.”
Scarce had the goddess spoke, when, see,
The nvymph’s extended limbs the form of branches wear,
Behold the wond’rous change, the fragrant tree!
To leaves was turn’d her flowing hair,
And rich diffused perfumes regaled the wanton air.

Heavens! what new charm, what sudden light,

Improves the grot, and entertains the sight!

A sprouting bud begins the tree t? adorn—

The large, the sweet vermilion flower is born!

The goddess thrice on the fair infant breathed,
To spread it into life, and to convey

The fragrant soul, and every grace bequeathed,

To make the vegetable princess gay.

Then kiss’d it thrice ; the general silence broke,

And thus in loud rejoicing accents spoke :—

“Ye Flowers, at my command attendant here,
Pay homage, and your sovereign Roser revere!
No sorrow on your drooping leaves be seen,

Let all be proud of such a queen,

So fit the floral crown to wear,
To glorify the day, and grace the youthful year!”

Thus speaking, she the new-born fav’rite crown’d;

The transformation was complete :

The deities with songs the queen of flowers did greet.
Soft flutes and tuneful harps were heard to sound,
While now to heaven, well pleased, the goddess flies
With her bright train, and reascends the skies,

78 ROSES.

The following list of roses will not prove beyond
a lady’s management, being hardy, and requiring
only pruning every January, and giving them a
good soil. Prune the white rose-trees very spar-
ingly, as they do not love the knife.

White damask

Roses, early cinnamon

Double yellow

Single yellow

Red monthly

White monthly

Double white

Moss Provence

Common Prevence

Double velvet

Single ditto

Dutch hundred-leayed

Blush ditto

Blush Belgie

Red ditto

Marbled

Large royal

York and Lancaster

Red damask

Blush ditto

Austrian, with flewers hav-
ing one side red, and the
other yellow

Austrian yellow

Double musk

Royal virgin

Rosa mundi, 2. e. rose of
the world, or striped red
rose

Frankfort

Cluster blush

Maiden blush

Virgin, or thornless

Common red

Burnet leaved

Scotch, the dwarf

Striped Scotch

Apple-bearing

Single American

Rose of Menx

Pennsylvanian

Red cluster

Burgundy rose

Perpetual, or four-season

HARDY CLIMBING ROSES.

The Ayrshire rose
Double ditto

Rose hybrida multiflora
Rose Clair

Rosa Russeliana
Reversa elegans

Rosa sempervirens, three
sorts

Rose ruga

Red Boursault

Crimson ditto

Lady Banks’ yellow rose

JASMINES.

Jasmines grow in very irregular forms.

Per-

haps their luxuriant wild appearance constitutes

their chief grace.

The jasmine is a beautiful

JASMINES. 79

screen in summer, wreathing its festoons through
trellis-work ; and it appears to me that Nature pre-
sents not, in our colder climes, a more fragrant and
beautiful bouquet than a mixture of roses and Jas-
TWiiiics.

The common jasmine is hardy, and loves a good
soil, by which term I mean kitchen garden soil.
Trench round the stem occasionally to lighten the
earth, and it will grow very freely. Put litter
round the jasmine in severe frost; and if a very
rigorous season destroy the branches, the root will
be saved, and its shoots in the spring will soon re-
place the loss. If they shoot out with displeasing
irregularity aud confusion, take off the least healthy
looking branches, and cut away those which grow
rumpled, for they only consume the juices of the
plant to no purpose. The common jasmine is
propagated by layers and slips.

The Arabian jasmine is very fragrant, but it does
not endure cold, or much heat, therefore an eastern
aspect suits it best. If the Arabian jasmine is
grown in a large pot or box, it could be placed
under cover during frost in the winter months ; but
do not place it in a greenhouse, which would be in
the other extreme again.

The yellow jasmine may be treated like the com-
mon jasmine. Itis not very fragrant, but it forms
an elegant variety.

I have seen very fanciful and beautiful devices
invented to display the beauty of the jasmine.
Their shoots grow so rapidly and luxuriantly, that
if the plant is allowed to luxuriate, it will soon
cover any frame-work with its drooping beauty.
The jasmine loves to hang downwards ; and I have
admired inventive little arbors, where the plant has

80 JASMINES.

been trained up behind them, and the branches
allowed to fall over their front im the richest profu-
sion, curtained back like the entrance of a tent.
The effect, during their time of flowering, was re-
markably elegant.

When you prune the jasmine, cut the branches
to an eye or bud, just by the place from which they
sprout, and that in such a manner, that the head,
when trimmed, should resemble the head of a wil-
low. This method makes them throw out abun-
dance of branches and fine flowers.

Give fresh soil to the jasmine every two years,
or they will gradually become weakened in their
blooms. The secret of having fine flowers, is in
keeping up the soil to a regular degree of strength,
as the human frame languishes under change of
diet, and becomes weakened for want of food.
Thus it is with animate and inanimate nature.

8]

CHAPTER VI.
ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS.

1 sHaLi speak now of the ornamental shrubs which
decorate a flower garden, and which a lady may
superintend herself, if her own physical powers are
not equal to the fatigue of planting. A laborer, or
a stout, active girl, may act under her orders, and
do all that is necessary to be done, in removing or
planting flowering shrubs and evergreens.

In planting flowering shrubs, be very particular
to plant them at such distances that each plant may
have plenty of room to grow, and strike out their
roots and branches freely. If shrubs are crowded
together, they become stunted in growth, and lanky
in form.

If you are forming a clump, or even a planta-
tion, let each shrub be planted six feet apart from
its neighbor: but if you wish to plant roses, syrin-
gas, honeysuckles, lilacs, &c. im your flower bor-
ders, they should be from twelve to fifteen feet dis-
tant from each other, so as not to interfere with the
flowers growing below them.

Do not plant tall shrubs promiscuously among
low-growing ones. Let the taller shrubs form the
back-grounds, that each shrub may be distinctly
seen. ‘The shrubs should be tramed up with single
stems, and they should be pruned every year, taking
up the suckers, and removing disorderly branches.

By allowing each shrub plenty of room, it will

8

82 EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

form a handsome head, and throw out vigorous
shoots. You will also have space to dig between
the shrubs, and the sun and air can benefit them.

Some of the more beautiful evergreens look ex-
tremely well dotted about the grounds singly or in
clumps, but be very particular in planting your
shrubs.

For instance, when you wish to transplant or
plant a shrub, dig a circular hole sufficiently large
to receive the roots of the plant, which must be
laid neatly down, while some person holds the
shrub in its proper position, straight and upright.
Cut away any dead or damaged roots; then break
the earth well with your spade, and throw it into
the hole, shaking the plant gently, just to let the
earth fall close in among the roots. When it is
well filled up, tread the earth gently round the
shrub to fix it, but do not stamp it, as I have seen
people do.

But if you can take up shrubs with a ball of
earth round their roots, they do not feel the opera-
tion, and their leaves do not droop. Water each
shrub after planting; give each of them a good
soaking, and let each plant have a stake to support
it during the winter.

October is the autumn month for transplanting
shrubs, and February and March are the spring
months. I always prefer the autumn transplant-
ing, as the rains and showers are so fructifying.
March is the last month for transplanting ever-
greens.

Laurustinus, Phillyreas, and Laurel, are excel-
lent shrubs to plant near buildings, or to hide a wall.
They are evergreen summer and winter, very

hardy and quik de cauant Ing,

EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 83

The Pyracantha is an elegant shrub, with its
clusters of red berries; and it looks gay during the
autumn and winter.

The Arbutus, or strawberry tree, is loaded with
its strawberries in August, September, and Octo-
ber. This is a beautiful shrub, placed singly on a
lawn, kept to one single clean stem, and a fine
branching head.

Portugal laurels are beautiful: their deep green
leaves, and scented feathery flowers, make them an
important shrub in all gardens.

It has been ascertained by a late severe winter,
that evergreens are extremely hardy, and will bear
any severity of frost. All those evergreens con-
sidered most tender, such as Portugal laurels, rho-
dodendrons, &c., were observed to brave the frost
unhurt, which were placed in high, unsheltered
places, or facing the east and north. It was ob-
served, also, that those evergreens were destroyed
whose aspect was south and west, and which lay
in warm and sheltered situations. The cause was
this. The shrubs did not suffer which were not
subject to alternations of heat and cold; while
those which lay in warm situations, being thawed
by the sun’s rays during the day, could not endure
the sudden chill of returning frost at night.

Plant your evergreens, therefore, fearlessly in
exposed situations; and care only, in severe win-
ters, for those which are likely to be thawed and
frozen again twice in twenty-four hours.

Rhododendrons are very beautiful shrubs, and
grow into trees, if the soil agrees with them.
They love a bog soil.

The Camellia japonica is considered a green-
house plant, but it becomes hardy, like the laurel,

84 EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

if care is taken to shelter it for a few winters,
when it gradually adapts itself to the climate.
This is troublesome, perhaps, as most things are, to
indolent people ; but the trouble is well repaid by
the beautiful flowers of the japonicas, its dark
leaves, and delicate scent.

The gum Cistus is a handsome evergreen, and
looks well any where and every where. Some
straw litter spread round their roots in winter is a
great protection.

All evergreens of a hard-wooded nature are pro-
pagated rapidly by layers in June or July. This
is the method :—Dig round the tree or shrub, and
bend down the pliable branches ; lay them into the
earth, and secure them there with hooked or forked
sticks. Lay down all the young shoots on each
branch, and cover them with earth about five
inches deep, leaving the tops out about two, three,
or four inches above ground, according to their dif-
ferent lengths. If these branches are laid in June
or July, they will root by Michaelmas ; but if they
are laid in October, they will be a twelve-month
rooting.

The layers of Alaternuses and Phillyreas will
sometimes be two years rooting, if done so late as
October ; therefore lay down your shoots, if possi-
ble, in June. Let the shoots which are layered be
those of the last summer’s growth.

You may propagate shrubs also from cuttings in
February and October. Let strong shoots be cho-
sen, of last summer’s growth: choose them from
nine to fifteen inches long, and, if you can, take
about two inches of old wood with the shoots at
their base. ‘Trim off the lower leaves, place the
cuttings half way in the ground, and plant them in

EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

a shady border to root.

85

Do this in February, in

preference to October, as every thing roots earlier

from spring operations.

You may also plant cut-

tings in June, but keep them moist and shady.
October is a good month for taking up suckers of
lilacs, roses, &c., and for all sorts of transplanting

in its varieties.

It is also the month to transplant

the layers of such shrubs as were laid in the pre-

vious October.

I subjoin a list of hardy deciduous shrubs and
evergreens, not too tall to admit into a moderately

sized flower garden.

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS OF LESSER GROWTH.

Arbutus, Strawberry tree
Common
Double-flowering
Red-flowering
Eastern, or Andrachne

Almond, common
White-flowering
Early dwarf, single flower
Double dwarf

Althea frutex, striped
Red
White
Blue
Purple
Pheasant’s eye

Andromeda, striped
Evergreen

Azalea, with red flowers
White

Berberry, common, red fruit
Stoneless, red fruit
White fruit

Bladder-nut, three-leaved
Five-leaved

Broom, the Spanish
Double-flowering

Yellow Portugal
White Portugal
Lucca
Bramble, double-flowering
American upright
White-fruited
Dwarf
Thornless
Chionanthus, Fringe, or Snow
drop tree
Candleberry broad-
leaved
Long-leaved
Fern-leaved
Oak-leaved
Cherry, double-blossomed
Cornelian
Dwarf Canada
Currant, with gold and silver-
blotched leaves
With gooseberry leaves
Pennsylvanian
Dogwood, the common
Virginia
Great-flowering
Newfoundland

Myrtle,

R*

86

Empetrum, black-berried heath
Guelder Rose, common
Double, or snowball
Carolina
Gold-blotched leaf
Currant-leaved
Hydrangea, white-flowering
Honeysuckle, early red Italian
Early white Dutch
Late Dutch
Late red
Long-blowing
Large scarlet trumpet
Small trumpet
Oax-leaved
Early white Italian
Early red Italian | ’
Ivy, deciduous, or Virginian
creeper
Jasmine, the commen white
Common yellow Italian
Gold-striped leaved
Silver striped leaved
Lilac, blue
White
Purple, or Scotch
Persian, with cut leaves
Persian, white-flowered
Persian, blue-flowered
Lonicera, upright Honey-
suckle
Red-berried
Blue-berried
Virginian
Tartarian
Mezereon white
Early red
Late red
Purple
Mespilus, spring-flowering
Lady Hardwick’s shrub
Peuch, double-flowering
Privet, common

EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

Silver-striped
Yellow-blotched leaves
Ptelea, or American Shrub
Trefoil
Pomegranate, single-flowering
Double
Robinia, or false Acacia
Common
Yellow-flowered
Scarlet-flowered, or rose .
acacia
Caragana
Rhamnus, or Buckthorn
Common
Sea buckthorn
Yellow-berried
Creeping evergreen
Raspberry, double-flowering
Virginian sweet-flowering
Rose, in every variety
Spirea frutex, common red
Scarlet
White

Sumach, scarlet

Large downy
White
Virginia
Elm-leaved
Myrtle-leaved
Carolina

Syringa, common

Dwarf double-flowering

Scorpion Senna

Smilax, broad-leaved
Blotched-leaved

Tulip Tree

Tumarisk, the French
German

Viburnum, or Wayfarer
Common
Stripe-leaved
American broad-le aved
Maple-leaved

EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

87

EVERGREENS.
Alaternus, common Striped-leaved
Blotched-leaved Virginian

Jagged-leaved, plain
Ditto, striped
Silver-striped
Gold-striped
Cistus, or Rock Rose
Gum Cistus, with spotted
flowers
With plain white flowers
Purple sage-leaved
Male Portugal
Bay-leaved gum
With hairy willow leaves
Black poplar-leaved
Waved-leaved
Purple, or true Gum Cistus
of Crete, with other va-
rieties
Cytisus, Neapolitan
Canary
Siberian and Tartarian
Laurustinus, common
Broad, or shining-leaved
Rough-leaved
Oval-leaved
Bay, broad-leaved
Narrow-leaved
Phillyrea, the true
Broad-leaved
Privet-leaved
Prickly-leaved
Olive-leaved
Gold-edged
Silver-edged
Rosemary-edged
Juniper, common
Swedish
Sclavonian
Canada
Jasmine, evergreen
Pyracantha
Ivy, common

Trish, or quick-growing
Honeysuckle, evergreen
Rose, the evergreen
Rhodedendron,dwarf Rose Bay
Kalmia, olive-leaved
Broad-leaved
Thyme-leaved
Coronilla, narrow-leaved
Broad-leaved

| Magnolia, laurel-leaved

Lesser bay-leaved
Arbor Vite, common
China
American
Cypress, common upright
Male spreading
Bignonia, the evergreen
Widow Wail
Locust of Montpelier
Medicago, Moon Trefoil
Stonecrop Shrub
Ragwort, the sea
Holly, common
Carolina broad-leaved
Yellow-berried
Many varieties

| Laurels, common

Portugal
Alexandrian
Oak, Ulex, or evergreen
Kermes, or scarlet-bearing
Gramuntian, holly-leaved
Carolina live
Germander, shrubby, of Crete
Euonymus,evergreen Virginia
Virginia Groundsel tree
Wormwood, lavender-leaved

| Spurge, or wood laurel
| Kneeholm, or Butcher’s broom

| Horse-tuil, shrubby

88 EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

In pruning shrubs, be careful to cut out the long
rambling shoots of the last summer’s growth, which
disfigures their appearance. Cut away, also,
branches of shrubs which interlace each other, that
every shrub may stand clear and well-defined.
Take away their suckers, and let each shrub be
kept to a single stem, as I have before observed.

89

. CHARTER VL"
MONTHLY NOTICES.

A RECAPITULATION of the work which each month
presents to the gardener’s notice will be useful.
By occasionally glancing over the Monthly Notices,
the memory is refreshed; and it will be found that
even the three winter months allow the young gar-
dener no remission from labor. ‘There is some-
thing to be done in every week of the year,—some-
thing to be attended to, which amuses the mind,
interests the imagination, and benefits the general
tone of mental and physical health.

JANUARY.

Let your fawn and grass walks be kept neat and smooth,
by rolling, this month; and if any part of the grounds require
fresh turf, this is the season for cutting and laying it down.
If you live in the neighborhood of a common, that is the best
ground for cutting turf, as the herbage is short, and free
from nettles, docks, &c. Lay it down firm and even, allow-
ing for the sinking of the newly laid earth, about an inch or
two. Rollit well, after having laid down the turf.

Keep the gravel walks also from weeds and moss, and roll
them in dry weather. If you attempt to roll gravel in wet
weather, the gravel clings to the roller.

Dig the clumps or spots where you mean to plant ever-
greens, in February and March, that the ground may be
trenched in readiness. The frost of this month will render
newly-dug earth more friable, and the snow will enrich it.

If the weather is very settled and mild, you may still plant
out hardy deciduous shrubs, such as sweetbriars, double
bramble, double-blossomed cherry, dwarf almond, jasmmes,
honeysuckles, roses, lilacs, laburnums, guelder rose, Spirea
frutex, mezereons, &c. Transplant each shrub with a good
ball of earth round its roots.

90 MONTHLY NOTICES.

Prune flowering shrubs now, where they require it, with a
sharp knife, not with shears. When I say “flowering
shrubs,” Ido not mean shrubs in flower, but shrubs that do
flower.

Transplant suckers from the hardy flowering shrubs, if
they have not been done before. Take them up with good
roots, and support them neatly with stakes.

Cuttings of young shoots of hardy deciduous shrubs may .
be planted in mild weather, to root, and form good plants in
the autumn. Layers may be also formed.

Protect all the choicer kinds of flowering shrubs, and all
cuttings of every kind, from severe frosts, by spreading litter
over them.

Plant tulips now—always providing the weather is mild—
to blow late in the year; but they will not be so handsome as
those which were planted again in September and October.

Plant any ranunculuses, anemones, &c., you may have
out of the ground, to come in late blowing; but, like the
tulips, they will not bear such fine blooms. Protect every
thing from severe weather, as well as you can, this month,
particularly your choicer sorts of bulbs, and tuberous-rooted
perennials.

FEBRUARY.

February is the first spring month, and the parterre will
begin to make gradual approaches to gaiety and life. The
anemones, hepaticas, &c., will now bud and flower, if the
weather is genial; and the crocus and snowdrop will put
forth their blooms to meet the sun on his returning march.

About the end of this month, you may begin to sow the
hardy annuals. I prefer April, but it may not be convenient
always to wait so long: therefore sow now the seeds of
hawkweed, lavatera, Venus’s looking-glass, Venus’s navel-
wort, candytuft, larkspurs, lupines, convolvulus, flos Adonis
dwarf lychnis, nigella, annual sunflowers, &c.

This month, you may plant and transplant, fearlessly, all
hardy, fibrous-rooted, flowering perennials and biennials,
suchas saxifrage, gentianella, hepaticas, violets, primroses of
all sorts, polyanthuses, double daisies, thrift, &c.; rose cam-
pions, rockets, campanulas, sweet-williams, hollyhocks, scar-
jet lychnis, carnations, pinks, monk’s-hood, perennial asters
and sunflowers, &c.

Plant cuttings of roses, honeysuckles, and jasmines.

If the weather is mild, you may transplant many kinds of

MONTHLY NOTICES. 91

evergreen shrubs, such as phillyreas, alaternuses, laurels,
laurustinus, pyracanthas, cistuses, &c. Let there be a ball
of earth round their roots, when you take them out of the
ground.

If box edging is required, plant it now: water it, and the
plants will soon root.

Dig the borders carefully and lightly, with your garden
fork; make the garden look neat, and free from weeds;
clear away dead leaves; sweep the lawn and walks; and let
spring advance in its proper order.

MARCH.

Now plant away. Evergreens cannot be moved at a bet-
ter period. Deciduous flowering shrubs may also be still
planted, such as Althea frutex, syringas, roses, honeysuckles,
mezereons, sumach, laburnums, lilacs, jasmines, candleberry
myrtles, guelder roses, &c.

Where the borders require filling up, the following plants
may still be moved, but do it early in this month ;—

Lychnises, campanulas, Canterbury bells, tree primroses,
rockets, sweet-williams, wallflowers, columbines, monk’s-
hood, rose campions, perennial asters and sunflowers, fox-
gloves, &c.

Sow perennial and biennial flower seeds about the last
week in this month. Stake your hyacinths, when the flower
stems are tall. ;

Plant out layered carnations of last year, into the places
where they ought to remain.

Give fresh earth to any plants in pots, such as carnations,
pinks, auriculas, double sweetwilliams, double stock gilli-
flowers, rockets, &c.

Sow annuals of all hardy kinds.

Transplant any hardy roses, which you may wish should
blow late in the year.

Plant box, for edgings, still; and roll the lawn and grass
walks.

Transplant any tenderer kinds of annuals which you may
have been at the pains of raising in, or procuring from, a hot
bed.

Keep the garden quite free from weeds and dead leaves.

APRIL.

Now place sticks to every plant or stalk requirmg support.
Fix the sticks, or light iron rods, firmly in the ground; and
tie the stems to each stick neatly, in two or three places,

92 MONTHLY NOTICES.

Some evergreens may yet be removed, as laurels, laurusti-
nus, Portugal laurel, cistuses, arbutus, magnolias, pyracan-
thas, &c.

Propagate auriculas, by slipping off their suckers and off-
sets, this month.

Sow carnation and polyanthus seeds still. Sow, also, pe-
rennial and biennial seeds.

Where any perennial or biennial fibrous-rooted flowers
are wanted, transplant them only in the first week of this
month, and they must have each a good bail of earth attached
to them; but this work should be completed in February, or
March at farthest.

Every sort of annual may now be sown,

Take care of your hyacinths, tulips, ranunculuses, and
anemones now, for they will be hastening into bloom.

Place your auriculas, hyacinths, &c., which may be in pots,
in a sheltered place, during heavy rains or winds; and shel-
ter those flowers which are in the borders as well as you can.
Trim them from dead Jeaves.

Keep your lawn and grass walks nicely mown and rolled,
and your borders free from weeds and rubbish.

MAY.

Propagate perennial fibrous-rooted plants by cuttings.

Propagate double wall-flowers by slips of the young
shoots of the head.

Sow annuals for succession; such as sweet-peas, nastur-
tiums, lavatera, lupines, flos Adonis, &c.

Take up those hyacinths, tulips, &e., which have done
flowering, and dry them in the shade to put away.

Weeds grow quickly now: hoe them up wherever you
see them. Support all flowers with sticks; train them up-
right. Clear away all the dead leaves from your carnations,
and gently stir the earth round them with your smallest
trowel.

Look round the borders now, and take off irregular shoots.

JUNE.

Propagate carnations by layers and pipings. Propagate
double sweet-williams and pinks by layers and cuttings or
slips.

Propagate perennial fibrous-reoted plants by cuttings of
the stalks.

MONTHLY NOTICES. 93

Transplant the large annuals from the seedling bed to
places where they are to remain. Let this be done in
showery weather, if possible.

Take up all bulbs, ranunculus, and anemone roots, &c.,
as the flowers and leaves decay.

Water the delicate plants if the weather proves dry: give
a moderate watering every evening; but never in the heat
of the day.

Sow yet some hardy annuals, such as ten-week stocks,
virgin stock, &c.

Plant out China-asters, Chinese hollyhocks, ten-week
stocks, large convolvulus, &c., but let each root have a ball
of earth round it.

Examine the perennial and biennial plants, to cut off all
dead, broken, or decaying shoots. Trim the African and
French marigolds from their lower straggling shoots, that
they may present a neat, upright appearance. Trim the
chrysanthemums, which are apt to branch too near the root,
and stake them neatly.

Plant out carnations and pink seedlings into their proper

laces.

, Keep every thing just moderately moist, if there is a long
drought in this month.

JULY.

You may lay carnations and double sweet-williams still ;
but let it be done before the end of the second week in this
month.

Propagate pinkspby slips and pipings.

Transplant the seedling auriculas which were sown last
year, as also the seedling polyanthus.

Transplant the perennial and biennial seedlings which
were not done last month, to remain till October.

Take up all bulbs as fast as they decay theirleaves, If this
month prove hot and dry, place your potted carnations in a
sheltered situation, and keep them just moist.

Support flowering shrubs and plants, and cut away de-
cayed stems. Keep the borders clean. Mow the lawn and
grass walks. Plant autumnal bulbs.

AUGUST.

You may now begin to propagate some double-flowered
and approved fibrous-rooted plants the end of the month, if
they have done flowering; such, for instance, as the double

94 MONTHLY NOTICES.

rose campion, catchfly, double scarlet lychnis, double rocket,
double ragged robin, bachelor’s buttons, gentianella, poly-
anthuses, auriculas, &c.

Sow auricula and polyanthus seed on a warm, dry day;
and remove carnation layers to some place where they may
remain till October to gain strength.

Sow seeds of bulbs,

Sow anemone and ranunculus seed.

Remove all bulbs which have done flowering.

Cut and trim edgings of box. Clip holly, yew, and pri-
vet hedges.

Gather flower seeds.

Plant autumnal bulbs, if any are still above ground, such
as colchicums, autumnal narcissus, amaryllis, and autumn
crocus,

Trim the flower plants; mow the lawn and grass walks,
and keep every department in neat order.

SEPTEMBER.

Transplant, in any moist or showery weather this month,
the perennial and biennial seedlings to their proper situa-
tions, with a ball of earth round their roots.

Propagate fibrous-rooted plants.

Prepare the spots where you mean to deposite anemone
and ranunculus roots any time between the end of this
month and the end of October; and dig all beds and borders
which are vacant, to prepare them also for receiving roots
and plants next month.

Transplant peonies, flag irises, momg’s-hood, fraxinella,
and such like plants, to part their roofS’ and remove each
root to its destined position. of”

Transplant evergreens. o

Plant cuttings of honeysucklea, and other shrubs.

Plant hyacinth and tulip roots for early spring bloom.

Plant box by slips or roots.

Mow grass lawn and walks. Clear away flower stems,
and trim flowering plants.

Sow seeds of bulbous flowers, if not done last month.

OCTOBER.

This is a very busy month; for the garden should now be
cleared and arranged for the season. ; /

Transplant all sorts of fibrous-rooted perennial and bien-
nial plants now where they are intended to remain.

MONTHLY NOTICES. 95

Put the bulbs into the ground again; and transplant the
different layered plants into their respective places.

Prune flowering shrubs of all sorts. Plant and transplant
all hardy deciduous shrubs, and their suckers.

Dig up and part the roots of all flowers which require so
doing, and replant them.

Plant cuttings of honeysuckles, laurels, &c,
gre up the roots of dahlias, and put them carefully away
ui ay.

Tim evergreens.

Plant box edgings; cut away the long, sticky roots, and
trim the tops even.

Mow grass walks and lawns, and weed gravel walks.

NOVEMBER.

Prepare compost for a new year by raking dead leaves,
soil, sand, &c. in a heap, to turn well over occasionally.
Pour the brine, soap-suds, &c. from the house over it.

Transplant still all hardy kinds of flowering shrubs,
suckers, &c.

Clear the borders from dead annuals, leaves, stumps, &c.;
shelter the choice bulbs and double-flowering plants.

DECEMBER.

Take care of every thing. Protect the more delicate
roots from severe frost, by strewing ashes, sand, or litter
over them. Prune shrubs, and dig between them.

If the weathersis open, you may still plant hardy sorts of
flowering shrubs

96

CHAPTER VIII.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.
CALENDAR FOR THE SOUTHERN STATES.

-January.—Sow peas, spinach, lettuce, cabbages,
radishes, parsley, beets, carrots, salsafy, parsnips,
turnips, asparagus. Plant horse radish, Irish po-
tatoes. ‘Transplant cabbages and lettuce.

Remarks.--The best variety of peas for this
month are early frame and bishops, for an early
crop, and dwarf marrowfat and dwarf green impe-
rial for a succession. Only a few beets, carrots,
parsnips, salsafy, and turnips, should be sown this
month, as they are all very tender while young, and
consequently easily killed. Endive should be tied
up for bleaching. It is late to dress artichokes and
asparagus beds, but if not done before, they must
now be attended to. Irish potatoes planted in the
commencement of this month, maiiihave their tops
killed by frost in February, but will not be injured ;
towards the last of the month they may be planted
for a general crop.

FrBruary.—Sow peas, spinach, lettuce, cab-
bages, radishes, corn, beets, carrots, salsafy, pars-
nips, turnips, thyme, sage, and other herbs. Plant
Irish potatoes. ‘Transplant cabbages and lettuce.

Remarks.--The same varieties of peas may be
sown in this month as were directed for the last.
The principal crop of beets and carrots should now
be sown. The common varieties of spinach

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 97

should be sown in small quantities once in ten days,
as it soon runs to seed.

Marcu.—Sow carrots, beets, Swiss chard, pars-
nips, salsafy, cabbages, spinach, turnips, leeks,
tomatoes, peppers, radishes, lettuce, Guinea squash.
Plant cucumbers, okra, squashes, melons, snap
beans, cushaws, sewee beans, New Zealand spi-
nach. Transplant tomatoes, peppers, Guinea
squash, cabbages, and lettuce.

Remarks.--All the above vegetables should be
got in at as early a period as possible. Carrots
should now be sown for a full crop, and from Eng-
li@@h seed. Lettuce should remain where it is
sown. New Zealand spinach should be sown in
hills, three feet apart each way. Radishes should
be sown every three weeks. All Irish potatoes
should be planted this month. If the season be
mild, most of the vegetables mentioned in March
may be sown towards the last of the month.

ApriL.—Sow carrots, beets, salsafy, turnips,
cabbages, cauliflowers, brocoli, tomatoes, peppers,
radishes, lettuce, celery, leeks. Plant okra, snap
beans, squashes, sewee beans, cucumbers, cushaws,
melons. Transplant cabbages, tomatoes, peppers,
Guinea squashes. Prick out celery.

Remarks.—The sowing of the main crop of car-
rots for summer and autumn, ought not to be delay-
ed longer than this month, as they will be easily
killed when up. The seed should be from Europe,
or they will run to seed in the fall. Cucumbers,
squashes, and melons, do not succeed well if de-
layed until now, but a few may be sown. The
same remark applies to beets, salsafy, parsnips,
and turnips.

May.—Sow cabbages, savoys, carrots, beets,

g*

98 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN,

turnips, cauliflowers, brocoli, celery, radishes.
Plant snap beans. ‘Transplant cabbages. Prick
out celery.

Remarks.—There is not much probability of
either beets, parsnips, carrots, or turnips, succeed-
ing at this season, especially the last; yet if want-
ed, a few may be ventured; under very favorable
circumstances, they may succeed. If carrots be
sown, the ground should be shaded and kept moist,
and this continued to the plants sometime after they
are up, or they will be killed by the hot sun.

JunE.—Sow cauliflowers, brocoli, cabbages, car-
rots, tomatoes. Plant snap beans, okra. tre:
plant celery, cabbages, leeks. Prick out cauli-
flowers, brocoli, and celery.

Remarks.—This month is generally very dry and
hot, and all the crops recommended to be sown
now, must be protected from the sun: most of
them should have been sown in April, and it is
only in case of failure or omission, that they should
now be sown; the month may be considered bad
for the sowing of seeds generally.

Juty.—Sow early Dutch turnips, ruta baga, car-
rots, parsnips, cabbages, cauliflowers, brocoli, en-
dive, radishes, spinach. Plant snap beans, Irish
potatoes, melons. ‘Transplant cabbages, celery,
cauliflowers, brocoli, tomatoes, and leeks.

Remarks.—A few only of carrots, parsnips, spi-
nach, or radishes, should be sown, as it is not very
probable that they will succeed, unless well pro-
tected from the sun for some length of time, while
young. The early Dutch turnips should alsa be
sown towards the middle and last of the month, zn
small quantities. The Irish potatoes will be fit for
use in October, and the tomatoes will furnish a sup-

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 99

ply when the spring-sown crop has ceased to bear,
and then continue till killed by a frost.

Aveust.—Sow peas, early Dutch and other vari-
eties of turnips, ruta baga, onions, cabbages, cauli-
flowers, brocoli, black Spanish radishes, carrots,
beets, parsnips, salsafy, lettuce, and _ endives.
Plant snap beans. ‘Transplant cabbages, cauli-
flowers, brocoli, celery, ruta baga, and endive.

Remarks.—Not much can be expected from peas
sown this month, as they will be much crippled by
the high winds and rain which we usually have ;
but if much wanted, a few may be ventured. The
beets and spinach are liable to the attacks of the
worms, which destroy their leaves: should they
escape these they will be very fine.

SEPTEMBER.—Sow early Dutch and other varie-
ties of turnips, ruta baga, beets, Swiss chard, man-
gle wurzle, carrots, parsnips, salsafy, lettuce, spi-
nach, cabbages, (English seed) onions, radishes,
endive. Plant snap beans. ‘Transplant ruta baga,
cabbages, cauliflowers, brocoli, celery, lettuce,
leeks, endive.

Remarks.—In this month the principal crops of
turnips, beets, carrots, parsnips, &c. should be
sown, as they will acquire sufficiert strength to
withstand the cold weather before the winter sets
in. When thinning out the ruta baga, the plants
should be reserved and transplanted out either into
those spaces where they have failed, or into a
piece prepared expressly for them. If the cabbage
seed are not English, they will run to seed in the
spring without heading.

OcroBER.—Sow cabbages, lettuce, carrots, beets,
turnips, radishes, spinach, salsafy, parsnips, ruta

100 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

baga. ‘Transplant cabbages, cauliflowers, brocoli,
onions, lettuce, leeks, and endive.

Remarks.—If any of the crops recommended
above have not been sown, they should not be neg-
lected longer ; most of them may be sown with
considerable advantage. ‘The artichokes should in
this month be attended to, the suckers removed,
and manure given. Strawberries should be set
out this month; they will bear in the ensuing
spring.

NovEMBER.—Sow peas, cabbages, radishes, car-
rots, spinach, turnips, parsnips, lettuce, beets, sal-
safy. Plant mazagon and Windsor beans. ‘T'rans-
plant cabbages, lettuce, onions, and leeks.

Remarks.—The first crop of peas may be sown
about the commencement of this month, and a
general crop towards the last, though it is better to
defer this until the next month. The dwarf mar-
rowfat and dwarf green imperial are the best varie-
ties for the sowing. ‘The asparagus beds should
now be dressed, and a good supply of manure
given.

DrcEMBER.—Sow peas, spinach, radishes, car-
rots, salsafy, lettuce, cabbages, beets, parsnips.
Plant Irish potatoes, mazagon and Windsor beans.
Transplant cabbages, lettuce, and onions.

Remarks.—Any of the variety of peas may be
sown in this month. The Irish potatoes will come
up so early as to have their tops destroyed by frost,
but will not be injured materially, if at all, by this.
All seeds sown during this month, except spinach,
peas, and beans, must be protected in cold weather.

101

CHAPTER IX.

VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN.

CALENDAR FOR THE NORTHERN STATES.

From the Lady’s Annual Register.

January.—The New Year has come. The
old one, with its joys, its sorrows, its labors, its
repose, its temptations, its conquests, its light or
dark hours, is gone. The preparations for New
Year are over—the Gifts are all arranged—nothng
remains but the joyful distribution of them. Much
is to be regretted in the past year. For the future,
there should be nothing but hope and good resolu-
tion. This year is at least now unstained by sin ;
strive that it may long continue so; think not of
the past, except as a warning and encouragement
for the future, trust humbly in a good Providence,
and keep boldly on. If you. have parted with
friends during the past year, resolve to bestow
more kindness and love on those who remain. If
God has blest you with wealth, dispense it to the
needy, with a more liberal hand. If your means
have been lessened, take to yourself a double por-
tion of content, and show your ingenuity in making
a little answer. Whatever you do, do well and
cheerfully.

Frsruary.—still winter reigns. February has
not the charm and excitement of January, the New
Year’s holidays, presents, &c., to reconcile us to it,

102 VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN.

It has only cold weather, snow storms, now and
then a warm day. But the sun is drawing nearer
to us ; when it does shine, it is to some purpose ;
and in this month comes the birthday of Washing-
ton, and that day is frequently celebrated by social
meetings, balls, and parties. It is also a short
month, and it is the last month of winter, and we
bear it as well as we can, because we feel the
spring, at least in name, is coming. In the latter
part of the month it is well to sow mignionette in
pots and boxes in the windows. It brings it for-
ward early, and it smells so sweet, that one who
has once enjoyed it will hardly be willing to do
without it. Parlor flowers should be well watched,
for some of the nights of this month are very cold.
The proverb is,—

‘As the days begin to lengthen,
The cold begins to strengthen,”

and it is not less true of the nights. Many a ten-
der parlor plant which has lived through December
and January, is touched by the cold nights of Feb-
ruary and March. A large cloth thrown over the
flower stand is a protection. Some persons recom-
mend a bowl of water to be placed under the cloth
with the plants. If, notwithstanding all precau-
tions, they should be touched with the frost, they
should be sprinkled in the morning with cold water ;
this will sometimes prevent them from dying.
Marcu is a cold, blustering month. With us it
is often the most uncomfortable one in the year.
The old farmers used to say they could depend on
“six weeks sledding in March.” We have some-
times, however, a few warm and pleasant days to
give us a foretaste of spring. It is not desirable.

VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. 103

that they should continue long enough to bring for-
ward vegetation in any great degree, for we are
certain to have cold weather after it. We had bet-
ter bear patiently the cold and bleak winds while.
we are clad in furs, than be compelled to lay them
aside only to take them up again. The rains
which come from time to time are apt to be cold,
and often mingled with snow. If the weather
should be warm at the very end of the month, the
snow-drop may be looked for, the first flower of
spring, and such a hardy little thing, that it does
not mind if a snow storm comes along and covers
it up for a day or two. As soon as the sun melts
it off, it looks up as bright as ever again.

Aprit.—lf the weather is favorable, and we are
not visited with snow storms and cold rains, as is
too often the case, some preparation may now be
made for a garden. Asparagus beds may be pre-
pared, beans and peas sowed, potatoes for early use
may be planted. Housewives will endeavor to
make preparation for a variety of the fragrant and
medicinal herbs used in a family, fennel, marjoram,
sage, parsley, lavender, balm, mint, &c. Garden
vegetables, lettuce, onions, parsnips, radishes, and
salsafy, may be sowed. Cucumbers under pots
and glasses.

Toward the end of the month flower seeds may
be sown. If bulbs were put into the ground last
year, they will begin to be in blossom this month
in sunny places, which are sheltered from the cold
winds. ‘The crocuses and snow drops, the narcis-
suses, will show their flowers, and the crown impe-
rials, tulips, and hyacinths, will be giving promise
of their future beauties. The flower beds must
now be raked fine. If rose bushes and other shrubs

104 VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN.

are to be removed, the best time is soon after the
frost leaves the ground. The tops of rose bushes
should be cut off, which makes them bloom strong-
er. Perennial and biennial seeds should be sown >
in a bed by themselves, and moved to the flower
garden when of a proper size. As a general rule,
flower seeds are better to be rolled into the ground
with a roller, or pressed in with a board, as some
kinds will not otherwise vegetate. It is necessary
to rake the ground a little before sowing, as it be-
comes hard by the frequent rains which fall this
month. ‘The following are some of the seeds
which may be sown toward the middle and end of
this month: White Chrysanthemum, Princes Feath-
er, Red Lavatera, Grand flowering Argemone,
Night flowering Primrose, Scorzonera, Scarlet Ma-
lope, White Catchfly, Pot Marigold, African Rose,
Azure Blue Gilia, Sweet Alyssum, White Candy-
tuft, Mignionette, and some others. In removing
plants from one part of the garden to another, take
up a large portion of the earth, that the roots may
be disturbed as little as possible. The pretty little
wild flower, called the May flower, (Epigeia Repens)
is seen in some parts of the country in the course
of this month; the leaves are evergreen under the
snow, and as soon as this cold covering is removed,
the little flower appears. It grows in abundance
at Plymouth, Mass., and is said to have been the
first flower which saluted the eyes of the Pilgrim
fathers, after their arrival on these shores, and to
have received its name from that circumstance.
May.—Tomatoes may be suwed in a warm situ-
ation. Plant cucumbers, melons, and squashes.
Plant beans. Weed and thin radishes. Plant
corn for the table. Weed plants that may have

VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. 105

come up. Sow tumips and peas. ‘Transplant
early lettuce. In the middle of the day, when the
weather is mild, cucumber frames may be opened
to inure the young plants to the air. But they must
be carefully shut up at evening.

This is the time, if the season be favorable, for
Hyacinths and Narcissuses. There are some
early Tulips, but none so fine as those which ap-
pear later. ‘The Dwarf Phlox begins to show its
lively flowers, and the Dwarf Iris. The Periwin-
kle is also seen at the end of this month, with its
pretty blue flowers and myrtle like leaf. The
seeds to be sown this month are, Morning Glory,
Starry Ipomea, Nasturtium, Balloon vine, Red four
o’clock, Violet Zinnia, Yellow Immortal flower,
Blue Commelina, Tricolored Amaranthus, Red
Opium Poppy, French Marigold, Blue Lupine,
Double Carnation, Poppy, Double purple Balsams,
Scarlet Cacalia, Wing leaved Schizanthus, Thun-
bergia, and others.

June.—Such seeds as were not planted the last
month, must now be put into the ground. Toward
the last of the month melons and cucumbers for
pickling must be sowed. ‘Those cucumbers which
are under glasses, must be watered and the frames
lifted up during the day that they may have fresh
air. It is safest to close them at night, particularly
in the early part of the month, as the nights are
occasionally cold. .Trenches must be prepared for
transplanting young celery plants. Onion and as-
paragus beds must be kept carefully weeded.
Young vegetables which have been transplanted
should be watered at night.

The annuals must be thinned out, and such as
are wanted to mix with the perennials must be

10

106 VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN.

transplanted the last part of this month, the surface
of the ground must be kept light, and no weeds
suffered to remain. The Peoney is now in its
glory; many superb varieties of this flower have
been introduced from China; the common species
was introduced into Antwerp a little more than two
hundred years ago, and then sold for an enormous
price. It is now common in every garden. It is
said that there are as many as fifty different spe-
cies and varieties, some a pure white, blush and
shades of red and purple. As soon as the foliage
of the Tulips begins to turn purple, the roots should
be taken up and laid in a shady place to dry, as
also the Crocuses. The Crown Imperials should
also be removed the last of the month. The Hya-
cinths are longer in coming to maturity; in about
two months from the time of blowing, when the
leaves begin to turn yellow, which is about the
middle of July, they may be taken up and treated
in the same manner as the tulips.

Juty.—Garden seeds must be gathered as they
ripen, and arranged, when dried, in paper bags,
with the name written upon them, ready for the
next year’s planting. Garden seeds for the late
and winter crops may be sowed. Those cauli-
flower plants which were sown in May, may be
now planted out in rows ; they will be ripe in Octo-
ber and November. Turnip beds may be thinned
out, but in doing this, care must be taken to pull
away those only which are the most feeble look-
ing, and where they are growing too closely to-
gether. Choose the healthiest plants to remain,
and let them stand about six inches from each
other. People who are fond of having crops of
garden vegetables succeed each other until late in

VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. 107

the season, will sow peas again this month. On-
ions which have attained their full size and are be-
ginning to change toa yellow color, should have
their tops bent down to the earth, which prevents
the vigor and juice from running all into the stems.
The vines of the cucumbers should be disposed in
straight lines, and the earth carefully dug about the
stems of the plants. When the weather is hot and
the ground very dry, the young crops and the plants
lately transplanted, should be watered.

The flower garden continues in its glory, in-
creased if any thing, by the later Roses, the Pinks,
Carnations, Larkspurs, Feverfew Coreopsis, Phlox-
es, Canterbury Bell, and many others. The plants
should be kept neatly tied up to sticks, and the
flower beds neatly weeded. They require con-
stant attention, as the weeds as well as the flowers
know this as their growing time. Flowers which
have been kept in the house during the winter, are
thought by some persons to be improved by being
set out in the garden, the pots sunk into the earth.
It is often advantageous to them to take them (at
least the common kinds, such as roses and the
more hardy geraniums,) from the pots, and place
them in the ground during the hot weather. Dou-
ble pinks and carnations may be propagated by
layers. They can also be increased by piping,
which is done by cutting off the sprouts entirely,
and setting them in small pots, which, if covered
by a tumbler, will form roots. An immense num-
ber of varieties of carnations and pinks are cultiva-
ted by florists.

Avecust.——-The weeds grow so fast at this sea-
son of the year, that they require constant atten-
tion. Young weeds must be cleared from the beds

108 VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN.

of young plants, and old ones must be cut down
before their seed ripens, or the wind will scatter it
about the garden.

The flowers this month are all of a gorgeous,
brilliant appearance. There is the Sun Flower,
the red, red and white Hibiscus, the Double Holly-
hocks of various colors; the white and Pyramidal
Phlox, the Tiger Lily. Not much is to be done in
the flower garden, but to save seeds, as they become
ripe; cut down decayed plants, and tie up and
trim others of their superfluous foliage. The ar-
bors are now fully covered with odoriferous vines,
and are a delightful retreat toward evening, when
the honeysuckles give out their most delicious odor.

SepremBer.—There is not much to be done with
the garden now but to enjoy its fruits, and its bril-
liant though somewhat gaudy flowers. One of the
most beautiful of them is the Dahlia, which has,
within a few years, been introduced into the gar-
dens of New England. It was not much cultiva-
ted in England until the year 1814. It is a native
of Mexico, and was named after a Swedish bota-
nist of the name of Dahl, a pupil of the celebrated
Linneus. The first introduced into Europe was a
purple one, in 1789, which was single. Since
then there have been very numerous and beautiful
varieties introduced. ‘They are produced either
from the seeds or by dividing the roots. They
will flower the first year from the seed, but very
few will be double. The finest varieties are prop-
agated by dividing the roots, which are tuberous,
and resemble the sweet potatoe. As soon as the
root has blackened the tops, they should be dug up
and put into a warm, dry cellar, secure from frost.
When the spring returns, they must be divided by a

VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. 109

sharp knife, being careful to leave a bud on each
bulb, or else they will not grow. Gardeners also
raise them by cuttings.

Ocroser.——Though the flower garden is now
hardly beautiful enough to lead usto meet the fogs of
a chilly October morning, yet in the middle of the
day it still looks brilliant, with its high colored, but
scentless flowers. The sweet Alyssum, however,
does not deserve the latter appellation, and that
may still be found by the side of the modest and
ever welcome Heart’s-ease, which, under any of
its names, or of whatever species, deserves all the
praise of the hundred and one sonnets which have
been written in its honor.

Bulbous roots may be planted this month. Holes
should be dug one foot and a half deep, and filled
with a previously prepared compost of one third
fine river sand, one third decayed scrapings of the
cowyard, and one third well rotted pasture turf.
Polyanthus, Narcissus, Peonies, Crown Imperials,
and Lilies should be planted five inches deep from
the top of the bulb. Hyacinths four inches; Tu-
lips, Narcissus, and Jonquils three inches, and Cro-
cuses and Snowdrops two inches.

During this month it is well to dress asparagus
beds. This will be done by cutting down all the
weeds into the alleys, digging these one spade
deep, and spreading the earth evenly over the beds.
The old beds must be covered with quite rotten
manure, and afterward with the earth from the
alleys. Remember to carry away, immediately,
the stalks of the old plants and the weeds. In the
latter part of the month, (if the weather be dry,)
the carrots and potatoes may be dug up and carried
into the cellar for winter use. All the spare

10*

110 VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN.

ground too should be well dug and trenched. The
baking and other winter pears and apples should
be carefully gathered, not bruised. The raspber-
ries may be pruned this month, and the young
suckers removed to create new plants. Make fresh
layers of carnations. Dig and dress up the flower
borders, and transplant such flowers as may be.
found necessary. Divide the roots of others that
have increased too much. Prune and plant all flow-
ering shrubs and evergreens. Weed the gravel
walks frequently and thoroughly.

NovemBER.—lIn the flower garden clear all the
beds from dead annual plants, pulling them out by
their roots. Cut down, too, all the dead stalks of
perennials, then hoe the borders of a dry day, clear
away the weeds, and rake the whole smooth. The
soil in the spring will be greatly improved by being
manured at this time, for the frost and sun and air
all contribute to render it fine and mellow for the
spring crops.

DercremBer.—The garden is hard bound by the
frost, or covered over with its garment of snow ; it
affords now no occupation or pleasure. ‘The green-
house, to those who are so fortunate as to possess
a luxury of this kind, must take its place. For
lack of this, a flower stand, filled with flowering
shrubs, is a source of pleasure. Care must be
taken to keep the leaves of parlor plants washed
clean, the earth moist, and loosened about the
roots. If the plants are in a room which is daily
swept, it is better to throw a large cloth over them
to protect them from the dust, which is very injuri-
ous to plants.

CHAPTER X.

MANAGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS.

From the Lady’s Book of Flowers and Poetry.’

Pernaps a few hints on the management of plants
in rooms, may not be unacceptable to our readers.
We, therefore, extract from Paxton’s Magazine of
Botany, the following observations :—

“Hints on the general management of plants are
attended with considerable difficulty ; every genus
requiring some little variation, both in soil, water,
and general treatment. If the room where the
plants are intended to be placed, is dark and close,
but few will ever thrive in it; if, on the contrary, it
is light and airy, with the windows in suitable as-
pect to receive the sun, plants will do nearly as
well as in a greenhouse. If observed to suffer,
the effects may be traced to these causes, either
want of proper light and air—injudicious water-
ing—filthiness collected on the leaves—or being
potted in unsuitable soil,

“1. Want of proper light and air, is perhaps the
most essential point of any to be considered ; for,
however well all other requisites are attended to, a
deficiency of these will always cause the plant to
grow weak and sickly. Let them always be pla
ced as near the light as they can conveniently
stand and receive as much air as can be admitted _
when the weather will allow. Those persons who
have no other place than the house to keep. them in,
will find that they derive immense advantage from

112 MANAGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS.

being, during fine weather in spring or autumn,
turned out of doors in the evening, and taken in
again in the morning, the night-dews contributing
greatly to their health and vigor.

“2. Injudicious watering does more injury to
plants in rooms than we imagine. To prevent the
soil ever having an appearance of dryness, is an
object of importance in the estimation of very
many; they, therefore, water to such an excess
that the mould becomes sodden, and the roots per-
ish. Others, to avoid this evil, give scarcely water
enough to sustain life. This, however, is by no
means so common a practice; for, in general, if
any thing appears to be the matter with the plant,
large doses of water are immediately resorted to,
for an infallible restorative. This overplus of
water will show its bad effects by the very dark
color, and flabby disposition of the leaves: but if
the plant receives too little water, its leaves will
turn yellow, and eventually die.

“The best plan is, to always allow the soil in
the pot to have the appearance of dryness (but
never sufficient to make the plant flag,) before a
supply of water is given, which should then be
pretty copious ; but always empty it out of the pan
or feeder, in which the pot stands, as soon as the
soil is properly drained. ‘The water used for the
purpose ought always to be made about the same
temper ature as the room in which the plants grow ;
never use it fresh from the pump, either let it stand
in a room all night, or take off the chill by a little
warm water, otherwise the growth of the plants
- will be much checked.

“<3. Extraneous matter collected on the leaves
may either arise from insects or dust; the former

MANAGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS. 113

may be speedily remedied, by placing the plants
under a hand-glass, or any thing that is convenient,
and burning some tobacco until they become well
enveloped in the smoke ; and the latter may be re-
moved by occasionally washing them on the head
with pure water, either by means of a syringe, the
nose of a watering pan, or with a sponge, when
the dust still adheres.

‘“‘ Bulbs of most sorts flourish in rooms with less
care than most other plants. Hyacinths should be
planted in autumn. Fill the pots with light rich
soil, and plant the bulbs so shallow that nearly
half the bulb stands above the soil, place the pots
in the open air, and cover them six or eight inches
with rotten bark. During spring, take them out as
they are wanted to bring into flower, and set them
in the window of a warm room, where they will
be exposed to the sun. When the leaves begin to
decay after flowering, give them no water, “when
the leaves are dead, take them out of the soil, and
lay them in an airy situation for planting.

“Tf grown in water-glasses, they require to be
placed in a light airy situation, and the water must
be changed every three or four days.”

114

CHAPTER XI.

FLORA’S REVEALINGS,

Acacia. Chaste Love.
Acanthus, The Arts.
Almond. Heedlessness.
Aloe. Acute Sorrow or Af-
fliction.
Althea Frutex.
Amaranth. Ymnmortality.
Ambrosia. Love returned.
American Cowslip, You are
my Divinity.
American Elm. Patriotism.
American Linden. Matrimo-
ny.
din Star-Wort. Wel-
come toa Stranger.
Anemone. Sickness.
Apple-Tree Blossom. Fame
speaks him great and good.
Ash. Grandeur:
Ash-Leaved Trumpet-Flower.
Separation.
Aspen- Tree.

Persuasion.

Lamentation.

B.

Bachelor's Button. J with the
morning’s love have oft
made sport.

Balm. A cure.

Balsam. Impatience.

Barberry. Sourness.

Bay-Berry. Instruction.

Bay-Leaf. I change but in

dying.

1

Bay-Wreath. The Reward of
Merit.

Beech-Tree. Grandeur.

Bell-Flower. Constancy.

Birch. Gracefulness.

Bird-Cherry. Hope.

Black Poplar. Courage.

Black-Thorn. Difficulty.

Blue Bottle Centuary. Deli-

cacy.

Blue Pyramidal Bell Flower.
Constancy.

Box. Stoicism.

Bramble. Remorse.
Branch of Currants. You
please all.

Branch of Thorns, Severity
or Rigor.
Bud of a White Rose.—A

Heart ignorant of Love.
Butter-Cup. Childishness.

Butterfly Orchis. Gaiety.
C.

Cabbage. Profit.

Canterbury Bell. Gratitude.

Cardinal’s Flower. Distinc-
tion.

Catalpa Tree. Beware of the
coquette.

Cedar of Lebanon. Incorrup-
tible.

Cedar Tree. Strength,

FLORA’S REVEALINGS.

Chamomile.
versity.
Cherry Tree Blossom. Spirit-
ual beauty.

Chesnut Tree. Render me
justice.

China Aster or Chinese Star-
wort. Variety.

China or Indian Pink. Aver-
sion,

China Rose. Beauty always
new.

Cock’s Comb, or Crested Ama-
ranth, Singularity.

Common Bramble. Envy.

Common Cactus, or Indian
Fig, Tburn.

Energy in ad-

Common Laurel in Flower.
Perfidy.

Common Reed. Complais-
ance.

Common Thistle, Importu-
nity.

Coriander. Concealed mer-
It.

Cowslip. Pensiveness.
Cranberry. Hardiness.

Creeping Cereus. Horror.
Crocus. Cheerfulness,
Cross of Jerusalem. Devo-
tion.

Crown Imperial. Majesty
and power.

Cypress. Despair.

Cypress Tree. Death and

Eternal Sorrow.

D.
Dahlia. Instability.
Daisy. Innocence.
Damask Rose. Freshness of
complexion.
Dandelion. Oracle.
Dew Plant. A Serenade.

115

Double Daisy. Participation.
Dragon Plant. Snare.
Dried Flax. Utility.

E.
Elder. Zealousness.
Elm, Dignity.
Endive. Frugality.
Ever-Flowering Candy- Tuft.
Indifference.
Evergreen. Poverty.
Everlasting. Never-ceasing
Remembrance,

F.
Fennel. Worthy all praise.
Fern. Fascination.
Fig. Argument.
Fig-Tree. Prolific.
Filbert. Reconciliation.
Fir. Time.
Flax.’ . Fate.
Flower of an Hour.
beauty.
Forget me-not. True Love.
Frankincense. The incense
of a faithful heart.
French Honeysuckle.
Beauty.
French Marygold. Jealousy.
Full Blown Rose. Beauty.

Delicate

Rustic

Garden Marygold. Uneasi-
ness.

Garden Ranunculus.
rich in attraction.

Garden Sage. Esteem.

Glory Flower, Glorious
Beauty.

Grape, Wild. Charity.

Grass. Submission.

Great Flowered Evening Prim-
rose. Inconstancy.

Youare

116

H.
Hare-Bell. Delicate and
Lonely as this Flower.
Hawthorn. Hope.
Hazel. Reconciliation.
Heath. Solitude.
Hellebore. Calumny.
Hemlock. You will cause my
Death.
Hickory. Glory.
Hoarhound, Frozen Kind-
ness.
Holly. Foresight.
Hollyhock. Fecundity.
Honesty. Honesty.
Hop. Injustice.
Horse Chesnut. Luxuriancy.
Hundred-Leaved Rose. Grace.
Haycinth. Play or Games.
Hydranger. Boaster.

I.
Iceland Moss. Health.
Ice Plant. You freeze me.
Indian Cress. Resignation.
Tris. Message.
Ivy. Fidelity.

a5
Japan Rose. Beauty is your
only attraction.
Juniper. Asylum.

K.
Kennedia, Mental Beauty.
King-Cup. J wishI was rich.

Laburnum, Pensive Beauty.

Lady’s Slipper. Capricious
Beauty.

Larkspur. Levity.

Laurel. Glory.

FLORA’S REVEALINGS.

Laurel-Leaved Magnolia.
Dignity.

Lavender.

Lemon.

Lettuce.

Assiduity,

Zest.
Cold-Hearted.
Lichen. Solitude.

Lilac. Forsaken.

Lily of the Valley. Return of
Happiness.

Lime or Linden Tree.
gal Fidelity.

Live Oak. Liberty.
Lobelia. Arrogance.
Locust, Vicissitude.
London-Pride. Frivolity.
Lotus-Flower. Silence.
Love lies a-Bleeding. Hope-
less not Heartless.

Lucerne. Life.

Lupine. Voraciousness.
Lythrum. Pretension.

M.
Madder. Calumny.
Maize. Plenty. ‘
Mallow. Sweet Disposition.
Mandrake. Rarity.
Maple. Reserve.
Majoram. Blushes. "
Marsh Mallow. Humanity.
Marygold. Despair.

May Rose. Precocity.
Meadow Saffron. My best
days are past. Ms
Mignonette. Your qualities

surpass your charms.
Misletoe. Obstacles to be

overcome or surmounted.
Mock Orange. Counterfeit.
Moss. Recluse.

Moss Rose. Voluptuous
Love.
Motherwort.
Love.

Conju-

Concealed

FLORA’S REVEALINGS.

Mountain Ash. Prudence.

Mulberry Tree. Wisdom.

Mushroom. Suspicion.

Musk Rose. Capricious
Beauty.

Myrtle. Love.

N.
Narcissus. Egotism.
Nasturtium. Patriotism.
fettle. Slander.

Night-Blooming Cereus. Tran- |

sient Beanty.

O.
Oak. Hospitality.
Oats. Vhe witching soul of
music, hers.
Oleander. Beware.
Olive. Peace.
Orange Flowers. Chastity.
Orange Tree. Generosity.
Oster, Frankness.

Py
Palm. Victory.
Pans‘e or Heart’s Ease.
You occupy my thoughts.
Parsley. Feast or Banquet.
Passion Flower. Religious
Superstiton.
Pea. Anappointed meeting.
Peach Blossom. IT am your
capiive.
Penny Royal. Flee away.
Peony. Bashful shame.
‘Persitmon. Bury me amid
Nature’s Beauties.
Pine. Pity.
Pine Apple.
fect.
Plum Tree.
Pomegranate.

You are Per-

Independence.
Foolishness.

\

117

| Poppy. Consolation to the
sick,
Prickly Pear. Satire.
Pride of China. Dissension.
Primrose. Early Youth.
Pyrus Japonica. Fairies’
Fire.
R.
Ragged Robiin. Wit.

Red Mulberry. Wisdom.
Red Pink. Lively and pure
love.
Rose. Genteel, Pretty.
Rose, Acacia. Elegance.
Rose Campion. You are
without pretension.
Rosemary. Fidelity.
Rudbeckia. Justice.
Rue. Grace, or Purification.

Rush. Docility.

s

Saffron Flower. Do not
abuse.

Saffron Crocus. Mirth.

Scarlet Flowered Ipomea.

Attachment.

Scarlet Fuchsia. Taste.
Scarlet Geranium. Prefer-
ence

Scarlet Nasturtium. Splen-
dor.

Scotch Fir. Elevation.

Small White Violet. Candor
and Innocence.

Snap Dragon. Presump-
tion.

Snow Ball. Thoughts of
Heaven.

Snow Drop. Consolation.

Sorrel. Wit ill-timed.
| Southern Wood. Jest or
Bantering.

ig

118 FLORA’S REVEALINGS.
Spanish Jasmine. Sensual-| Weeping Willow. Melan-
ity. choly.
Stinging Nettle. Cruelty. Wheat. Riches.
Strawberry. Perfect Good-| White Jasmine. Amiable-
ness, ness.
Sun Flower, False Riches. | White Lily. Purity and Mod-
Sweet Briar. Poetry. esty.
Sweet Pea. Delicate Pleas- | White Mullen. Good Na-
ure. ture.
Sweet Violet. Modesty. White Oak. Independence.
Sweet William. Craftiness. | White Pink. ‘Talent.
Sycamore. Woodland Bean-| White Poplar. Time.
ty. White Poppy. Sleep of the
Heart.
gl iA White Rose, Dried. Death
Tansy. Resistance. preferable to loss of Inno-
Thorn Apple. Deceitful| cence.
Charms. White Violet. Purity of Sen-
Thyme. Activity. timent.

Tiger-Flower. For once

may Pride befriend me.
Tulip. Declaration of Love.
Turnip. Charity.

Vv.
Verbena. Sensibility.

Vernal Grass. Poor but
Happy.
Vine. Drunkenness.

Virginian Spider Wort. Mo-

mentary Happiness.

W.
Wall Flower. Fidelity in Mis-
fortune.
Walnut. Intellect.
Water Melon. Bulkiness.

Willow. Forsaken.

Willow Herb. Pretension.

Winter Cherry. Deception.

Witch Hazel. A Spell.

Wood Sorrell Maternal Ten-
derness.

Wormwood. Absence.

ie
Yellow Carnation. Disdain.
Yellow Day Lily. Coquetry.

Yellow Gentian. Ingratitude.
Yellow Iris. Flame of Love.
Yellow Rose. Infidelity.

Yew. Sorrow.

Zinnia. Absence.

CHAPTER XII.

We add this chapter, which we have selected
from Mrs. Laudon’s Ladies’ Companion to the Flower
Garden, that our readers may have the benefit of
her very excellent remarks on Planting, and on the
Gathering and Preservation of Seeds.

PLANTING.

Planting is the operation of inserting plants in the
soil, either in the free ground or in pots. The
simplest kind of planting is that which consists in
removing small seedling plants, or such as have
been struck from cuttings or layers; and this is
commonly performed by making a round hole with
a dibber, and putting in the root of the plant to the
same depth as it had been covered with earth be-
fore, and making it fast by thrusting the dibber into
the firm earth beside the hole and pressing it to the
root. In this operation, the great art is to make
the root fast at the lower extremity. Thus, in
planting common seedlings of annuals or even
cabbage-plants, if the earth be pressed close to the
root at the upper part and not at the extreme points,
the success will hardly be complete ; and in tender
plants, or in a dry season, a failure will be the re-
sult. In planting plants of a larger size, a small
pit should be opened by the spade or trowel; the
bottom of the pit having been formed into a cone
or small hill, the plant should be placed in the cen-
tre, and the roots spread out equally over it on ev-

120 PLANTING.

ery side. The roots are then to be covered with
soil gently pressed over them; and the operation
ust be finished by watering so as to consolidate
the soil equally, without making it firmer on one
part of the roots than another. If the soil should
have been previously dug, trenched, or loosened to
the depth of a foot, or probably two feet or three
feet, the pit should not be made so deep as to throw
the neck or collar of the plant below, or even on a
level with the surface, when the soil 1s consolidated
by watering. On the contrary, it must be left of
such a height above it, as that when the soil is
finally consolidated by its own gravity, influencec
by the weather, the neck shall still be above the
general surface of the ground, and the plant stand
on a small hillock. ‘This condition of planting can-
not be too carefully attended to; for nothing can
be more injurious to transplanted plants than having
the neck buried more than it was ina natural state.
Nothing is more common than too deep planting ;
and the temptation to it is the greater, because
deep planted plants, from having the roots more
accessible to moisture, are more certain of grow-
ing the first year, and are less in want of mulch-
ing to exclude the heat and drought, and of staking
to prevent them from being moved by the wind.
Hence, in planting trees or shrubs, it is of the
greatest importance, not only with a view to their
future growth, but also to their natural appearance
above the surface, to have them planted on little
hillocks, greater or less in height, according as the
soil may have been moved to a greater or less
depth, either in the operation of digging the pit in
firm soil, or in planting in soil which has been

moved by digging, or trenching, or otherwise. In

PLANTING. Pat

small gardens it is generally desirable, for the sake
of producing immediate effect, to plant plants of
considerable size; and in this case, in addition to
the precautions which have been already men-
tioned, it is desirable to plant by what is called
fixing with water. ‘This operation is performed in
the following manner: the hole being properly
prepared, the plant placed in it, and the roots
spread out ou every side, and extended as far as
they will go, one person holds the plant upright, a
second sprinkles earth over the roots, and a third
supplies water from a watering-pot, with a rose on,
if the plant be small, and without a rose, if it be a
tree of six feet or eight feet in height, holding the
pot as high above his head as his arms will reach.
The weight of the water coming down from such
a height, consolidates the soil about the roots, and
fixes them in such a manner, as to render the
plant, if it has been carefully taken up, almost in
the same state as it was in before removing.
Large trees or shrubs, if planted in this manner in
the autumn, and staked, where there is danger from
high winds, will grow, and even flower and fruit,
the following year, as well as if they had not been
removed. In this kind of planting with large
plants, the hillock, left after the operation is finish-
ed, should not be less than a foot or eighteen
inches above the surrounding surface; and to
lessen evaporation during the ensuing summer,
the hillock should, if possible, be covered with
short litter, moss, turf turned upside down, or even
small stones, for the first year. In staking large
plants of this kind, the stakes should be placed
close to the stem of the plant, in which position
they are much less likely to injure the fibrous-
rit

122. PLANTING

roots, than when placed at a distance from the
tree; and the stakes should be made fast to the
stem of the plant, by a piece of straw or hay rope,
or by a piece of twisted matting, or any kind of
cord; the part of the stem to which the stake is
tied, “having previously had a smaii handful of
straw, or moss, or mat, bound round it to prevent
the tie from galling the bark of the stem, and pre-
venting its increase during summer. ‘These stakes
should remain for a yoar or sometimes two years,
according to the size of the plant and its facility
of making roots. In generai,ihe sooner the stakes
are taken ¢ away the better; because ‘lie motion of
the stem by the wind, is essential to its increasing
in thickness. In this matter much must be left to
the discretion of the planter, who must always bear
in mind that a staked plant is in a most unnatural
position; and also, that if the tree should lean
somewhat to ore side for some years aiter plant-
ing, it will ultimately become more or less erect;
and that a strong, vigorous-looking plant leaning
a little to one sie affords a greater evidence of its
being secure and in sound health, than a straight,
erect plant kept in that position by a stake. In
the case of planting trees with stems three or four
inches in diameter, in exposed situations, two or
three stakes may be used, placed ata short dis-
tance from the base of the stem and leaning
towards it; and where they are made fast, they
should be joined by matting, hay-ropes, or some
other soft material, so as not to injure or confine
the bark. Before transplanting trees of a timber
size, the main roots are frequently cut at the dis-
tance of five feet or six feet from the stem, a year
previously to transplanting; in consequence of

PLANTING. 3

which, they send out fibres which in the course of
the summer become small roots, so that when trans-
planted, the tree, instead of drawing its principal
nourishment from spongioles at the distance of
twenty feet or perhaps thirty feet from the stem, 1s
enabled to draw it from the distance of six or eight
feet, and thus to continue growing, though not with
the same degree of vigor as if it had not been trans-
planted. Some kinds of trees, when of a large
size, such as the Sycamore, the Lime, the Horse-
chesnut, and a few others, may be transplanted
without this precaution; but in this case, the ope-
ration must be performed in autumn, as soon as the
leaves have dropped, in order to give the roots
time to form some fibres during the winter; and
the greater the distance from the stem at which
the roots are cut, the greater will be the success.
Large trees with wide-spreading roots when trans-
planted, seldom require to be staked, because the
roots form a broad base, which prevents the stem
from being blown to one side. Where there is
danger anticipated from high winds, the tree may
be secured by three guy-ropes tied to the upper
part of the stem, and made fast to stakes driven
into the ground at such a distance from the tree as
that the ropes may form an angle with the ground
of 45°; or the stronger roots may be kept in their
position by stakes driven into the ground with
their heads beneath the surface of the soil, the
main roots being made faust to them by cords.

In all cases of transplanting deciduous trees,
with the exception of the Beech and the Hornbeam,
some pruning should be given to the top, so as to
lessen the number of branches and leaves which
are to be supplied by the root. ‘The quantity of

124. PLANTING.

branches that are required to be removed, will de-
pend partly on the kind of tree, and partly on the
intention of the planter, but mainly on the climate
and soil. Beech trees, as already mentioned, are
injured when transplanted, by having many branch-
es removed, and often die in consequence. Syca-
mores and all the Acer tribe, having numerous
fibres near the main stem, require but little pruning
of the head. The same may be said of the Yew
and the Holly, the Lime end the Elm. When the
object of the planter is to produce immediate effect
by a bulky head, all the branches may be left on,
whatever may bs the kind of tree; but in that case
the tree will produce only leaves for a number of
years, or if it produce shoots they will not exceed
a few lines in length. Ultimately, if the soil be
poor and dry, the tree will probably perish ; but if
the soil should be good and moist, and the climate
also moist, the tree will, in time, become vigorous,
and produce shoots. W here the climate is moist,
and the soil good, and also moist, any tree may be
transplanted without pruning the branches; be-
cause the fibres it will produce in such a soil and
climate, will be sufficient to supply the moisture
transpired by the leaves. But where the climate
is dry and the soil also dry, no large tree can be
safely transplanted with all its branches ; because
the transpiration by the leaves will be much great-
er than the moisture which can possibly be absorb-
ed by the roots. Hence, in the dry climate of the
Continent, all trees with stems above an inch or
two in diameter, have their branches entirely cut
off, always excepting the Beech and Hornbeam,
the Yew, and all the Pine and Fir, and Cypress
tribes. Even in this country, in Evelyn’s time,

PLANTING. 125

this was the practice; and the late Sir Joseph
Banks, when he planted groups of trees with stems
five inches or six inches in diameter, on a portion
of Hounslow Heath, which was allotted to his resi-
dence there, planted only stumps ten feet or twelve
feet high, which stumps are now finely-headed
trees, conspicuous from the road in passing Spring
Grove. Much has of late been written on the sub-
ject of transplanting large trees, by Sir Henry
Steuart and others; and the practice has been re-
commended of leaving on the whole of the head.
Experience, however, has proved that this can
only be done with advantage, under certain circum-
stances.

Planting in pots, when the plants are of the very
smallest size, may be effected by a small dibber, as
in planting in the common soil ; but it is more fre-
quently done on the principle of planting in pits ;
that is, the pot being properly drained by a few
potsherds being placed over the hole in the bottom
of the pot, and an inch or two of soil placed over
them, according to the size of the pot, the young
seedling or newly-struck cutting is held with one
hand, and soil sprinkled over the roots by a trowel
with the other. When the pot is filled, the soil is
consolidated by lifting the pot with both hands a
few inches high, and setting down once or twice
with a slight jar; afterwards supplymg water so
as to moisten the whole of the soil in the pot.
The thumb, or a potting-stick, should previously be
passed round the inner edge of the pot, so as to
firm the soil round the rim; otherwise the water is
liable to run down round the edge of the pot, with-
out moistening the soilin the middle. Immediate-
ly after planting, the pot should be set in a position

126 PLANTING.

where it can be shaded during sunshine ; but on no
account should tender plants be shaded during
cloudy weather, or covered with an opaque cover-
ing during night, unless for the purpose of protect-
ing them from cold. Of course the after treatment
of every plant in a pot, must depend on its nature ;
all that it is necessary at present to treat of, is the
manner of planting.

Transplanting plants which have already been
grown in pots, is either effected by removing the
ball or mass of earth containing the roots entire, or
by gently breaking the ball in pieces, and stretch-
ing the roots out on every side. When the ball is
not broken, the operation is called shifting. Plants
are often reared in pots, on account of their tender
nature when young, or for the convenience of
transporting them to a distance, though they are in-
tended ultimately to be planted in the open ground.
In almost all cases of this kind, the ball should be
broken, and the pit having been prepared with the
greatest care, as in common planting, the fibrous
roots should be stretched out in it as far as they
will go on every side. Hence, a plant which has
been grown in a very small pot, when it is to be
transplanted into the open garden, may often re-
quire a pit three feet or four feet in diameter.
There is not perhaps an operation in the whole
circle of gardening, that affords a higher gratifica-
tion to the planter, than transplanting plants from
pots when the pits and soil are properly prepared,
and the roots carefully stretched out without being
bruised or broken. In consequence of the extra-
ordinary sources of nutriment which are thus af-
forded to the plant, and of the greatly increased
power given to the roots, the shoots which it

PLANTING. 12s

makes the first year are extraordinary, and evince
a degree of vigor, which none but a gardener of ex-
perience, could believe possible. On the other
hand, when a plant in a pot is turned out into a pit,
however well the soil may be prepared, if the
roots are not stretched out, it may remain for many
years without growing much faster than it previous-
ly did in the pot. This is often the case with the
more rare species of the Pine and Fir tribe, and
with Magnolias and other plants kept in pots by
nurserymen ; and it is further attended by this evil,
that the plants are easily blown to one side by the
wind. In the case of surface-rooted plants, such
as Pines, if they have been some years in the pot,
they never send out roots sufficient to keep them
upright; and hence the Pinaster and Stone Pine,
which are almost always kept in pots in British
nurseries, are generally found leaning to one side,
in plantations in this country. It is necessary,
however, to make the distinction between plants
newly planted in pots, and those which have been
in pots for two or three years ; for the former may
perhaps have few roots which have reached the
sides of the pot, as in the case of China Roses
struck and potted early in the season, and planted
out the same summer, and which, of course, may
be planted out without breaking the ball. The
same observation will apply to all other plants in
pots, that have not their fibrous roots somewhat
woody ; and also to all hair-rooted plants, such as
Heaths, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Arbutus, and in
general to all the Ericacee, which having at no
age large woody roots, may always be transplanted
from pots with the balls entire.

It may here be observed, that large shrubs of

128 PLANTING.

almost all the Ericacee may be transplanted at
almost any age, with less danger than most other
plants, as from the slender and fibrous nature of
the great mass of their roots, they are less liable
to injury than woody-rooted plants. All that is re-
quired is, that they should be taken up with a large
ball of earth, and that when replanted, they should
be abundantly supplied with water.

Hitherto nothing has been said especially appli-
cable to evergreens, whether in the open ground or
in pots. ‘These being at every season of the year
more or less in a growing state, it is always desi-
rable to transplant them with balls; and it is only
young plants of evergreens, such as seedling Hol-
lies, Portugal Laurels, and young cuttings or layers
of the common Laurel, Laurustinus, Sweet Bay,
Phillyrea, Alaternus, Junipers, &c., which can be
sent to any distance with a certainty of growing
without balls. ‘The common Holly, when it is
above three or four feet in height, requires to be
taken up with a ball, and that ball carefully pre-
served by being tied up in a mat—or, according to
the Dutch practice, put into a basket of wicker-
work. The same remark will apply to Arborvite,
Junipers, Arbutus, Rhododendrons, Box, Phillyreas,
and even the common Laurel.

The best season for transplanting all deciduous
trees and shrubs, is the autumn ; because the plant
has time to produce some fibres, and accommodate
itself to its new soil and situation during the win-
ter, so as to be prepared to grow freely the follow-
ing spring. Evergreens may also be transplanted
In autumn, or at any time in open, moist weather,
during autumn, winter, or early spring, In dry or
frosty weather, it is always dangerous to remove

PRESERVATION OF SEEDS. 129

them; because the sap in an evergreen 1s more or
less in motion at every season of the year, and the
plant is never so completely dormant as in the case
of deciduous trees. Formerly it was thought that
the best season for removing evergreens, was in
the latter part of summer, shortly after they had
completed their year’s growth; but this doctrine
was only acted upon in the time of Miller and be-
fore, when there were comparatively few species
of evergreens in British gardens, and it has been
recently found by Mr. McNab, (see his Treatise on
Transplanting Evergreens,) that evergreens may
be transplanted with much greater safety in mild
weather in autumn or winter, than at any other
period of the year. Herbaceous plants may, in
general, be transplanted at any season, when they
are not in flower or coming into flower; but the
safest time for perennials is in autumn, after they
have ripened their seeds and are going into a dor-
mant state. Biennial and annual plants are best
transplanted when quite young, or after they have
obtained their second or third pair of leaves; and
seedlings in general may be treated in a similar
manner. In all cases of planting, (excepting with
Cacti and other succulents,) the plants should be
watered as soon as they are fixed in their new sit-
uations; and when practicable, they should be
shaded for a few days from the heat of the sun.

GATHERING AND PRESEVATION OF SEEDS.

The gathering and preservation of seeds is an
occupation peculiarly agreeable to persons fond of
gardening; partly, no doubt, because it contains so
much of future promise, and on the same principle

12

130 PRESERVATION OF SEEDS.

that sowing is universally considered a more exci-
ting operation than reaping. ‘The greater number
of seeds of ornamental herbaceous plants are con-
tained in long narrow pods, called siliquez, or
sillicles, such as those of the cruciferous plants;
or in leguminous pods, such as those of the Sweet
Pea; or of capsules, such as those of Campanula;
but a number of plants produce their seeds naked in
tubes, such as the Scrophularine; on receptacles,
such as the Composita; and some in fruits more or
less fleshy, such as the Fuchsia. All seeds may
be known to be ripe, or nearly so, by the firmness of
their texture, and by their changing from a white or
greenish color, toa color moreor less brown. ‘There
are, indeed, some seeds which are whitish when ripe,
such as the White Lupine, and of several of the
sweet peas; and other seeds that are quite black,
such as those of some Ranunculuses, but in general
a brown color is characteristic of ripeness. Seeds
should be gathered on a dry day after the sun has
had sufficient time to exhale all the moisture which
dews or rains may have left on the seed-vessels.
In general, the pods, or capsules, should be cut off
with a small portion of the stalks attached, and the
whole should be spread out, each kind by itself, on
papers in an airy room or ‘shed, from which rain
and the direct influence of the sun, are both ex-
cluded. When the seed-vessels are thoroughly
dried, they may be put up in papers without separa-
ting the seeds from them; and keptiin a dry place,
rather airy than close, till wanted for sowing.

Seeds preserved in the seed-vessel no doubt make
comparatively clumsy packages, to seeds from
which every description of husk or covering has
been separated; but in this clumsy state they are

PRESERVATION OF SEEDS. 131

found to keep better than when cleaned. Never-
theless, when they are to be sown the following year,
or sent any where in a letter, it is better to take
them out of the covering, and render them as clean
as possible, by passing them through sieves, with
holes sufficiently large to admit the escape of dust,
but not of the seeds. Such sieves, on a small
scale, every lady may make for herself by turning
up the edges of a piece of thin pasteboard cut in
a circular form, and piercing the bottom with holes
with a large pin or darning needle. When it is
determined to separate the seeds from the seed-ves-
sels, instead of putting up the whole together, the
vessels after gathering may be dried in the sun;
when many of the seeds will come out by the ex-
pansion of the seed-vessels in the heat, and the
remainder can easily be rubbed out. ‘This is the
usual practice of nurserymen. For keeping seeds
a lady ought to have a small cabinet, which she
might form herself of pasteboard, with as many
drawers as there are letters in the alphabet; and as
herseeds are put up in papers, she can tie the
packets of each genus by themselves, and put them
in the appropriate drawer. Where so much trouble
can not be taken, a large brown paper bag, or a.
canvass bag, for each letter of the alphabet, may be
substituted.

The period during which seeds will retain their
vegetative powers differs in different families, genera,
andeven species. Seeds of the Ranunculacee and
the crucifere, will, in general, retain their vitality
for several years, in whatever manner they may be
kept; provided the situation be not such as will
cause them to germinate. On the other hand, seeds
of the Capsicum will keep for several years if re-

132 PRESERVATION OF SEEDS.
‘

tained in the berry, but will seldom grow the second
year when removed from it. As a safe general
guide, it may be adopted as a rule, that all seeds
will keep three years, and grow, provided they are
retained in the unopened seed-vessel ; that most
seeds, if maturely ripened, and kept in a dry place
in close paper packets, will grow the second year ;
and that all seeds whatever, whether kept in the
seed-vessel, or exposed in open drawers like those
of the seedmen, will grow the first year after being
gathered. Mignionette seed will keep seven years ;
but that of stocks and wall-flowers will not remain
good more than two years, unless kept in the pod.
Sweet peas and lupines will, with difficulty, keep
two years, while the seeds of Prince’s feather and
of poppies will keep several years. Larkspur seed
will seldom grow after the second or third year.
Notwithstanding the length of time which some
seeds will keep, it is generally advisable to sow them
as soon after they are ripe as practicable, as fresh
seeds always vegetate much sooner than old ones.

CHAPTER XIII.

THE WEATHER.

The Weather is an important item, and we will
add a few general rules to assist our readers in
judging of its changes ; premising, however that our
rules are not always infallible. The weather is
proverbially fickle in all her predictions and changes,
and we can only seize upon such general prognos-
tics as experience has shown to be correct in ordi-
nary cases.

Rule 1st.—If the sun rise red and fiery, you may
expect wind and rain; if cloudy, and the clouds
soon decrease, certain fair weather; if in the morn-
ing some parts of the sky appear green between the
clouds, while the sky is blue above, stormy weather
is not far off.

2nd.—C.ovps small, strewed with dapple gray,
with a North wind, bring fair weather for two or
three days ; clouds that look like large rocks, por-
tend large showers; on the other hand, if large
clouds decrease, it is a proof of fair weather in
summer or harvest time ; if clouds rise with great
white tops, and joined together with black on the
lowest side, especially if two such clouds arise,
make haste for shelter.

3d. If Misr rises in low grounds and soon van-
ishes, it is a token of fair weather; and if it rises
high, or to the tops of hills, you may expect rain

ina day or two; a general mist before the sun
12*

134 THE WEATHER.

rises, near the full of the moon, brings fair weather ;
if this happens in the new moon, it brings rain in
the end; and on the contrary, if before the sun
rises, in the old moon, rain at the new moon.

4. Suppen ratns do not last long; but when
the air grows thick by degrees, and the sun and
moon and stars, shine dimmer and dimmer, it is
likely to rain for some hours. If it begins to ram
an hour or two before sun-rising, it is likely to be
fair before noon, but if the rain begins an hour or
two after sun-rising, it is likely to rain all that day,
except the rainbow be seen before it begins to rain.

5. Signs or natn. The air is inclined to rain
when, at night, you hear the sound of bells, the
noise of water, or of beasts of any kind, or any
other noises, unassisted by the direction of the
wind, more plainly than at other times. The sink-
ing of rivers, more than usual, at some seasons, is a
certain presage of much rain to follow, and the re-
verse after the fall of much rain, indicating dry
weather. If the earth or other moist places
emit any extraordinary smell, rain follows. Dews
lying long in the morning, signify fair weather ;
small dews, and they soon vanishing, rain. If
the colors of the rainbow tend more to red than any
other color, wind follows; if green or blue, then
rain.

6th. THE winp. It has been observed in Eng-
land, that in eight years together, there was as much
north-west wind as there was north-east, and con-
sequently as many wet years as there was dry:
whether the same holds good in our country, has
not been correetly ascertained, but with some care
it could easily be proved.

When the wind blows from the north-east, and

THE WEATHER. ao

continues two or three days without rain, and hath
not some south the third day, it is likely to continue
north-east for eight or nine days, all fair, and then
to come south again; if it turns again out of the
south to the north-east, with rain, and neither turns
south nor rainy the third day, it is likely to continue
north-east a considerable time. Fair weather for a
week, with a southerly wind, is likely to produce a
great drought, if there has been much rain out of
the south before. ‘The wind usually turns from
north to south, without rain; but returns to the
north with a strong wind and rain; the strongest
winds are when it turns from south to north-west ;
a north-wester generally brings clear weather, and
begins by blowing hard. Wind blowing from the
sea, is observed to be always most cool in summer,
and warm in winter.

When the wind changes with the sun, that is
from East to South, from South to West, it seldom
goes back; if it does it is only for a short time ;
but if it moves in a contrary direction, that is from
East to North, from North to West, it generally
returns to the former point, at least before it has
gone quite round the circle. When winds continue
to vary for some hours, as it were to try in what
point they were to settle, and afterwards begin to
blow constant, they continue for some days. If
the South wind begins to blow for two or three
days, the North wind will blow suddenly after it ;
but if the North wind blows for the same number of
days, the South will not rise till after the Hast has
blown a while. Whatever wind begins to blow in
the morning, it will continue longer than that which
rises in the evening.

Orxer procNostics. Ifthe last eighteen days

136 THE WEATHER.

of February and the first ten days of March, be
rainy, then spring and summer quarters are likely
to be so. If the latter end of October and begin-
ning of November, be for the most part warm and
rainy, then January and February are likely to be
frosty and cold, except after a very dry sum-
mer. If October and November be frosty, then
January and February are likely to be open and
mild. Generally, a moist and cool summer portends
a hard winter; a hot and dry summer and autumn,
especially if the heat and drought extend far into
September, portend an open beginning of winter,
and cold towards the latter part of it and the begin-
ning of sprmg. A warm and open winter portends
a hot and dry summer, for the vapors disperse in
the winter showers, whereas cold and frost keep
them in and convey them to spring and summer.

Birds that change countries at certain seasons,
show the temper of the weather according to the
country whence they came; as in the winter,
pigeons, wild duck and geese, &c., if they come
early, they come away from a hard winter, and
when swallows come early, it is followed by a hot
summer.

?

Gi AL TER XT.

BOTANICAL EXPLANATIONS

From Flora’s Interpreter.

oe

FLOWERS.

There are seven elementary parts in a flower—or, proper-
ly speaking, flower and fruit.

1. Calyx. The outer or lower part of the flower, gen-

erally not colored.

2. Corol. The colored blossom of the flower, within or

above the ealyx.

3. Stamens. The mealy or glutinous knobs, generally on

the ends of slender filaments,

4. Pistil. The central organ of a flower; the base of this

becomes the pericarp or seed.

5. Pericarp. The covering of the seed, whether Hod,

shell, bag, or pulpy substance.

6. Seed. The essential part, containing the rudiments of

a new plant.

7. Receptacle. The base which sustains the other six

parts, being at the end of the stem.

Any accidental appendage isanectary. The form and po-
sitions of these organs, and of no other part, are employed
in distinguishing the Classes, Orders, and Genera.

Double flowers are formed by changing the stamens into
petals. Botanists term these vegetable monsters.

138 BOTANICAL EXPLANATIONS.

INFLORESCENCE, OR MANNER OF FLOWERING.

1. Whorl, An assemblage of flowers surrounding the
stem or its branches, constitute a whorl or ring: this is seen
in the Mint and many of the labiate plants.

2. Receme, or cluster, consists of numerous flowers each
on its own stalk or pedicle, and all arranged on one common
peduncle ; asa bunch of Currants.

3. Panicle. bears the flowers in a kind of loose subdivided
bunch or cluster, without any regular order; as in the Oat.
A panicle contracted into a compact, somewhat ovate form,
as in the Lilac, is called a Thyrse, or bunch; a bunch of
Grapes is a good example.

4. Spike. Thisisan assemblage of flowers arising from
the sides of a common stem: the flowers are sessile, or with
very short peduncles; asthe Wheat and the Mullein.

5. Umbel, several flower-stalks, of nearly equal length,
spreading out from acommon center, like the rays of an
umbrella, bearing flowers on their summits; as Fennel and
Carrot.

6. Cyme resembles an umbel in having its common stalks
all spring from one center, but differs in having those stalks
irregularly subdivided ; as the Snow-ball and Elder.

7. Corymb, or false umbel---when the peduncles rise from
different heights above the main stem; but the lower ones
being longer, they form nearly a level, or convex top; as, the
Yarrow.

8. Fascicle, flowers on little stalks variously inserted and
subdivided, collected into aclose bundle, level at the top; as
the Sweet William.

9. Head, or tuft, has sessile flowers heaped together in a
globular form ; asin the Clover.

CLASSES AND ORDERS. 139

10, Ament, or catkin, is an assemblage of flowers composed
of scales and stamens, arranged along a common thread-like
receptacle; as in the Chesnut and Willow.

11, Spadix is an assemblage of flowers, growing upon a
common receptacle, and surrounded by a spatha, or sheath;
as in the Egyptian Lily.

CLASSES AND ORDERS.

Tue explanations of these must necessarily be very brief;
my aim being rather to stimulate curiosity respecting the sub-
ject of Floral Botany, than to impart instruction in the sci-
ence. A few general facts, and a few of the first terms, are
all that can be given.

Flowers in the Linnzan system are divided into twenty-four
Classes. These Classes are divided into Orders; Orders into
Genera; Genera into Species ; Species are frequently changed
into Varieties.

The first ten classes are distinguished by the number of
their stamens;—thus,

1, Monandria, 1 stamen; Flowering Reed is the only one
of this class given.

2. Diandria, 2 stamens: Lilac, Sage, Jasmine, ete.

3. Triandria, 3 stamens; Crocus, Iris, Oat, etc.

4. Tetrandria, 4stamens; Witch-Hazel, Holly, etc.

Pentandria, 5stamens ; Violet, Flax, Woodbine, etc.

Hexandria, 6 stamens; Lily, Sorrel, Aloe, ete.

Heptandria, 7 stamens; Horse-chesnut, etc. None of

this class given.
8. Octandria, 8 stamens; Nasturtion, etc.
9, Encandria, 9 stames ; Laurel, etc.

WON

140 CLASSES AND ORDERS.

10. Decandria, 10 stamens; Rue, Pink, Hydrangea.

11. Dodecandria, 12 to 19 stamens; Mignonette, etc.

12. Icosandria, 20 or more, standing on the calyx. Rose,
etc.

13. Polyandria, always 20 or more, on the receptacle; But-
ter-cup, Larkspur, Peony, etc.

14. Didynamia, 4 stamens, 2 of them uniformly the longest;
Fox-glove, Balm, Thyme, etc.

15. Tetradynamia, 6 stamens, 4 of them uniformly the long-
est; Gilly-Flower, Honesty, Queen’s Rocket, ete.

16. Monodelphia, stamens united by their filaments in one
set, anthers being separated; Geraniums, Hibiscus,
etc.

17. Diadelphia, stamens united by their filaments in two
sets; flowers papilionaceous, or butterfly-shaped.

18. Polydelphia, stamens in two sets, united at the bottom by
the filaments; Orange, St. John’s Wort, ete.

19. Syngensia, stamens 5, united by their anthers in one
set, flowers compound; China-aster, Daisy, ete.

20. Gynandria, stamens stand on the germ, style or stigma,
separate from the base of the calyx or corol; Orchis,
etc.

Monecia, stamens and pistils in separate flowers on the
same plant; Amaranth, Pine, Nettle, etc.

22. Diecia, stamens and pistils on separate plants; Yew,
etc,

23, Polygamia, stamens variously situated; sometimes on
flowers with pistils, sometimes stamens only; Mim-
osa, etc.

24. Cryptogamia, the flowers of this class are invisible to
the naked eye; Lichen, Moss, etc.

ORDERS, 141

ORDERS.

The first thirteen orders are distinguished entirely by the
number of pistils. The names of these orders are,

Monogynia—l1 pistil. Heptagynia—7.
Digynia—2. Octagynia—8.
Trigynia—3. Enneagynia—9.
Tetradyginia—4. Decagynia—10.
Pentagynia—o. Dodecagynia—12.
Hexagynia—6. Polyginia, many pistils.

The 14th Class has § 1 Gymnospermia—seed naked.
2 orders— ? 2 Angiospermia—seed in capsules.

: 1 Sillicnlosa—pod short.
15th Class—2 orders— } 2 Siliquosa—pod long.

16, 17, 18th Classes.—In these the orders are determined
from the number of stamens.

19. Class 5, orders 1. Equalis.—2. Superflua.—3. Frustanea.
4, Necessaria.—d, Segergata.

20, 21st Classes.—Orders have the same names as the pre-
ceding classes.

29d Class has 8 orders; the first seven named from the num-
ber of stamens—the 8th, Monodelphia, because the
stamens are united in one set. \

23d Class has 3 orders. Monecia—stamens and pistils in sep-
arate fowers on the same plants, Diecta—stamens,
etc. as different plants. Jrie@cta—on three flowers.

24th Class is divided into 6 families Felices, (ferns ;) 2. Musci,
(mosses;) 3. Heptaice, (liverworts;) 4. Alga, (sea-
weeds ;) 5, Lichenes, (lichens ;) 6. Fungi, (mushrooms.)

13

142 TO PRESERVE FLOWERS AND PLANTS.

POISONOUS PLANTS.

1. Plants with five stamens and one pistil, with a dull-col-
ored lurid corol, and of a nauseous sickly smell, always poi-
sonous. As, tobacco, thorn-appie, henbane, nightshade.

2. Umbelliferous plants of the aquatic kind, and a nauseous
scent, are always poisonous. As, water-hemlock, cow-pars-
ley. But ifthe smell is pleasant, and they grow in dry land,
they are not poisonous. As, fennel, dill, coriander.

3. Plants with labiate corols, and seeds in capsules, fre-
quently poisonous. As, snap-dragon, fox-glove.

4. Plants from which issue a milky juice on being broken,
are poisonous, unless they bear compound flowers. As,
milk-weed, dogbane.

5. Plants having any appendage to the calyx or corol, and
eight or more stamens, generally poisonous. As, colum-
bine, nasturtion.

Plants with few stamens, not poisonous, except the num-
ber be five; but if the number be twelve or more, and the
smell nauseous, heavy and sickly, the plants are generally
poisonous.

TO PRESERVE FLOWERS AND PLANTS.

Place the specimens in a close, dark room; when the
plants are nearly dry, press them, in small quantities envelop-
ed in paper, till the oil appears on the surface, which you
will know by its discoloring the paper; then do them up in
clean paper bags, and they will retain their fragrance, color,
and medicinal properties, for years.

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