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| UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

FARM-GARDENING

AND

SHHD-GROWING.

BY
FRANCIS BRILL,

OF THE MATTITUCK (L. I.) SEED FARM,
NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION.

WITH
SUGGESTIONS TO SEED-GROWERS.

BY
} Dr. GEORGE THURBER.

NEW YOR oer ————
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
751 BROADWAY.
1884.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, by the
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

~~ ~

PUBLISHERS’ PREFACE.

Mr. Brill, in writing this work, made known for the
first time, in this country at least, the methods followed
by those who raise vegetable seeds as a business. Other
works occasionally gave brief hints upon saving the few
seeds required for the family garden, but by methods un-
suited to operations on a commercial scale. The author
is one of the few men well qualified to treat the subject
practically.

The business of seed-growing is rapidly extending in
this country, and is attended by a corresponding fall-
ing off of importations. It is an occupation that
presents many inducements to the careful cultivator, not
the least of which is the large returns per acre from land
devoted to the crops. In the business of seed-growing, a
reputation for strict integrity and intelligent care forms
an important portion of the capital required. The name
of the grower adds a money value to the product.

Market-farming is the growing of garden vegetables by
farm culture. It is the form which our agriculture must
assume as the country grows older and the population
more dense. Farmers in the older States with high-priced
lands can not afford to grow those crops which bring
them in competition with cultivators of cheap lands in
the newer States, and they must devote them to crops
which can not be transported to a great distance and for
which there is a constant local demand.

The two branches of agriculture, or more properly, of

(3)

4 PUBLISHERS’ PREFACE.

horticulture—Seed-growing and Farm-gardening may
often be properly united. ‘This new edition presents
valuable suggestions to the intelligent seed-grower.

It is a well-established fact that while seeds may be
true to their kind and every care taken to insure purity
and freedom from the seeds of weeds, the larger the in-
dividual seeds, the more valuable they are. Large size
indicates that the seeds came from healthy, vigorous
plants, and that they attained their fullest development.
Direct experiment shows that large seeds produce larger
and stronger seedlings than do small seeds of the same
variety. It also shows that this superiority at the start
is maintained throughout the growth of the plants and
is manifest at the time of harvest.

While the seeds of some plants, which originally came
from cool and moist climates, may be more readily grown
in Europe than here, the number of these is small. A
large share of our garden-vegetables are natives of sub-
tropical or even tropical countries, and these in our
warm soils and under our clear bright skies, attain a
perfection unknown in Europe. They mature more thor-
oughly and produce larger and better seed than it is pos-
sible to raise abroad. As a consequence the former
prejudice of our gardeners against American seeds has
well-nigh disappeared; and at present not only are they
preferred at home, but the quantities exported annually
increase.

Farm-Gardening and Seed-Growing.

INTRODUCTION.

A few years since, while residing at Newark, N. J,
and engaged in market-gardening and seed-growing, the
idea of writing a book on the latter subject was suggested
to me by one of the editors of the American Agricul-
turist.

I thought the matter over, and finally abandoned the
idea, from the fact that I did not believe the subject con-
tained matter enough for a separate volume. Since my
removal to the eastern part of Long Island—a section, by
the way, admirably adapted to the production of vegeta-
bles and seeds—and noticing the interest manifested here
by the farmers in matters pertaining to gardening, I have
concluded to write a book on the leading vegetables and
their seeds.

The market-gardens about the larger cities, especially
New York, are being, one by one, cut up for building pur-
poses, to accommodate the mass of people whose occupa-
tions are in the city, but who are obliged to find a dwelling-
place beyond its limits. Hence it would seem that the
time will soon be when the consumer must depend upon
the “farm-garden” of remote districts for a supply of
vegetables of many kinds, and the finer sorts alone, which
are not transportable, will be the principal articles grown
near the city.

5

6 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

Even now there are many places where land can be
bought for the amount of money paid annually for rent by
many market-gardeners, where the soil is as well adapted,
naturally, for growing many vegetable crops as any
can be.

At the present low prices of produce and the unequal
price of labor, farmers can no longer depend upon the
usual crops, and are anxious to turn their ground to good
account by growing root crops and other vegetables which
may be transported to market from a distance, and to aid
such in accomplishing this object is the mission of one part
of this work.

The growing of seeds has become an important branch
of farm industry, and the increasing demand for all leading
seeds, owing to the constant growth of our country, and
the accompanyingly increased interest in horticulture, ren-
der this business worthy the attention of those having
land suitable for the purpose. Seed-raising may be con-
ducted in connection with farm-gardening to good ad-
vantage, or carried on separately. If, perchance, some of
my readers may be assisted, by means of the instructions
given, to establish for themselves or their sons a business
at once pleasant, healthful, and lucrative, the object of this
work will have been attained.

In preparing the book, I have endeavored to give plain,
practical directions, in minute detail, for growing vegeta-
bles and seeds, and have aimed to avoid all superfluous
matter, which, though it might be interesting to the gen-
eral reader, would be of no practical benefit to those for
whom the work is more especially designed. I have
deemed it advisable to dispense with illustrations, which I
admit are useful, to certain extent, in giving to the reader
a more vivid idea of the form and general appearance of
the subject under consideration ; but in these days of enter-
prise, almost every seedsman’s catalogue, as well as the
works on gardening which have preceded this, and the

MARKET-GARDENING. re

agricultural and horticultural journals, contain complete il-
lustrations of all leading vegetables, implements, etc. A
repetition of them here would only increase the size of the
volume without materially adding to its usefulness.

In giving directions for sowing, planting, etc., the dates
are for the latitude of New York City, and should be va-
ried according as the situation is north or south of that
point.

MARKET-GARDENING.

This term as generally used applies to the growing of
vegetables for market in so-called market-gardens. These
are usually tracts of land lying adjacent to the larger
cities, and comprise from five to fifteen acres. It is im-
portant that the market-gardener should be near to market
for various reasons. His crops are mostly sold in the
green state; many of them, being forced under glass, are
consequently of a very perishable nature and are easily
damaged by rough handling; hence by carting to market
in wagons, and being handled only by himself, or those in
his immediate employ, his produce is not subjected to such
severe treatment as is often given to articles of freight by
railroad or steamboat employés. Moreover, from the very
perishable nature of many garden vegetables, they can not
be long packed in bulk without heating, hence the quicker
they are sold and consumed after gathering the better.

Another very important point is the facility for obtain-
-ing manure from the stables in the city, which by their
system of planting must be used in immense quantities.
There may be some readers of this book who, having
land near large villages, where there is generally a good
market, may desire to pay some attention to this business.
To such I would say, the manner of sowing, cultivating,
etc., is very similar to the directions herein given for the
farm-zarden.

8 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

For valuable information on market-gardening I would
respectfully recommend to them ‘ Gardening for Profit,”
a practical work, giving a full exposé of the system of
that business as practised about New York City, and
written by Peter Henderson, one of the most successful
gardeners of that vicinity.

FARM-GARDENING,

This term may be applied to the growing of garden
vegetables more remote from market. The farm-gardens
of the present day are not very far distant from the cities,
and in them are grown many vegetables which are found
in the market-garden, but usually the main crops are the
coarser articles best adapted to transportation, and such as
do not require excessively heavy manuring. As I re-
marked in the Introduction, the time must come when the
production of grain and all farm produce must be left to
the great West, and all suitable land within a radius of at
least one hundred miles of our present commercial centers
will be occupied as farm-gardens in producing vegetables
for the millions who will be engaged in mercantile and
mechanical pursuits in the cities, fast spreading over the
sections now used for the purpose of gardening. I have
no desire to be prophetic, but if we may judge of the
future by the past, this view would seem to be well founded.
This work, so far as it treats on the growing of vegeta-
bles, is intended principally for those who now or may in
the future have land distant from the great market
centers who may desire to change their business.

While I have scrupulously avoided in every case writing
anything in regard to the possible or probable amount of
money to be realized from any crop, I must say that be-
yond a doubt there are many vegetable crops which may
be grown far remote from, and shipped to market, that
will pay much greater profits than ordinary farm produce.

FARM-GARDENING. 9

What these crops shall be and the amount to be realized
from them can only be determined by the attending circum-
stances. The class of men above alluded to, or, in other
words, those who are now engaged in farming—working
men—can enter upon this business at much less risk than
those entirely unskilled in tilling the soil. They can, in
connection with their regular business, devote an acre or
two to growing those crops the management of which is
the least complicated. The additional expense will be for
manure, some improved tools, and a little extra labor.
By keeping strict account of expenses and receipts, they
can calculate nearly the probable amount of money return
from each crop.

I would here call attention to the fact that a trial of
three or four years will be necessary to fully determine
this matter, because the land at the start can hardly be
brought to the condition necessary to produce the best re-
sults, which can only be brought about by thorough
working and manuring. It also may occur that at one
season the price of any particular article may be very low,
and the next exactly the reverse may be the case, so that
one year’s results must be averaged with the other. If
these experiments prove satisfactory, the area devoted to
the culture may be increased, an: other crops, such as re-
quire the use of hot-beds and cold-frames, may be added.

Those who have sons growing up can assist them in
this way to acquire a knowledge of this kind of farming,
and as a rule, those who have grown up with the business
are the most successful followers of it. In most cases, in
farm-gardening, one half the quantity of manure used by
market-gardeners will be sufficient to produce the crop,
especially on new land that is naturally fertile, and where
Jand is abundant it will be advisable to select a fresh
piece occasionally—one that has lain for some time in
grass—and seed down an equivalent amount of the old
land. There are many crops which may be grown for

1 k

10 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

an indefinite number of years on the same land, but as a
rule, alternating or changing crops occasionally is advis-
able. It will be well to plant the new ground, for one or
two years, with such crops as can be worked by plow and
cultivator, the better to subdue it and prepare it for those
which require hand cultivation.

Never sow nor plant more ground than can be posi-
tively sure to receive proper and timely attention, and
bear in mind that to the gardener there is no season of
rest; wet or dry, hot or cold, there will always be some-
thing to do, which must be done in its proper time to in-
sure success.

SEED-GROWING.

This business is an extended branch of vegetable-
growing, for the operations of growing the crop from
which to produce the seed are the same as when raising
it for market, except, perhaps, in many instances it 1s
not essential to grow the stock so early, and in some cases,
as with egg-plant, unusual attention is requisite in for-
warding the plants, to get a season long enough in which
to mature the seeds. The business of seed-growing, like
farm gardening, can only be acquired by practice, and
should not be entered upon very largely at the start. In
addition to lack of experience, another serious drawback
to the beginner in seed-growing, is the difficulty in pro-
curing a market for the seeds when grown.

The seedsmen of the present day vie with each other in
procuring and selling the most reliable seeds, for they
understand full well the importance to the gardener of
having only such as are fresh and pure, for should he sow
any other his labor will have been in vain. I must here
call the attention of those who contemplate farm-garden-
ing or seed-growing, to the vast importance of obtaining
and sowing only fresh and pure seeds; for should they fail

SOIL AND PREPARATION. ~ jy |

to germinate, the ground will be lost for that crop at
least, and when the stock is impure the case will be still
more serious. For instance, if cabbage, lettuce, or any
crop of this kind, upon which much labor has been ex-
pended, proves other than what it should be, the result
must be damaging, if not ruinous. In view of these
facts, seedsmen are very particular to buy only from
known and responsible growers ; hence, the new beginner
must aim to establish a reputation for responsibility. In
seed-growing, great care must be taken to keep far apart
such as will mix by the blossom, and it is advisable not to
grow seeds in many varieties of any one class of vege-
table. It is further of great importance always to save
“stock seed” from the very best of whatever kind, and
in saving the main crop to select only perfect specimens.

In describing the varieties of the different kinds of
vegetables, I have noticed only such as are the most
popular about New York, and the descriptions are mainly
to aid in making selections for seed. For a complete list
of varieties and descriptions in minute detail of almost
every known vegetable, the reader is referred to a book
entitled “ Vegetables of America,” by Fearing Burr, Jr.,
the most complete work of its class ever published in this
country.

SOIL AND PREPARATION.

The soil for growing vegetables and seeds should be as
near as possible a deep loam; it may be more or less
sandy, but avoid clay, or anything heavier than a clay
loam. It should have a free but not too porous subsoil,
and if not dry, should be made so by draining. Here I
would say, if possible, select a soil that is naturally dry,
or, in other words, that which will not retain the surface
water.

It is quite as important that the subsoil be such as to

12 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

allow the moisture to ascend in dry weather, as to descend
in wet weather, and while draining may assist the latter,
it can never fully accomplish the former; hence, the pre-
ference for natural to made land. The preparations
should be made, so far as possible, in the fall. The
ground should be plowed, thoroughly harrowed, and
smoothed off with the back of the harrow, where early
planting is to be done, as the water passes away easier
from an even surface, and the soil is sooner dry in the
spring, but such land as is intended for later crops may
be left without harrowing. Fallow ground should be
taken for sowing seeds on, but sward land may be used
for such crops as are to be worked with the cultivator,
provided it can be plowed in August, and again plowed
and thoroughly harrowed late in the fall. Land lying
nearly level with a southern aspect is to be preferred.
The beds may be laid out of any size, but should not be
short, or too much time will be consumed in turning
while plowing. A convenient size is ten yards wide and
one hundred and twenty yards long, containing very
nearly one quarter of anacre. A narrow headland should
be left at each end, for driving on and for turning when
plowing. If pains are taken to lay out the lands straight
in the start, they may always be kept so with very little
trouble.

MANURES AND MANURING.

Without fertilizers to enrich the soil, all attempts to
grow vegetables or seeds will be in vain; in fact, liberal
manuring and careful attention to growing crops are the
two most essential points in the business.

Stable manure has always been considered the best, and
is now the standard fertilizer with market-gardeners, al-
though others are used to some extent. Farmers who
have been in the habit of using from ten to twenty loads

MANURES AND MANURING. 13

of coarse barn-yard manure to the acre, will be astonished
when told that market-gardeners use four times the last-
named amount, or more, of well-rotted stable manure,
every year.

In fact, they put on as much as can be conveniently famisel
under, with the assistance of two men, following the
plow and scraping it into the furrows. Of concentrated
manures they apply more than double the quantity used
for farm crops; of bone-dust one ton, Peruvian guano one
half a ton to the acre, and so on.

This heavy manuring is necessary, as they plant very:
close, raise two crops a year,and take an immense amount
of produce from the land.

In farm-gardening or seed-growing, where the crop is
generally planted wide, and there is an abundance of land
to allow of a portion being seeded down at times and al-
lowed to rest, one half the above-named quantities of
manure will suffice.

It is always advisable to use stable manure mainly,
when it can be obtained, and in following the directions
herein given for manuring the various crops, bear in mind
that I always have reference to such as is obtained from
cities, when speaking of stable-manure. This is nearly
free from straw, and, load for load, is worth double such
as is usually made in barn-yards, and composed largely of
straw, stalks, ete. This city manure is bulky, and when
freighted by railroad, as it is to a great extent on Long
Island, the first cost is high, but I am fully satisfied that,
to a certain extent, it is the cheapest in the end,

Next to this, pure ground bone, when applied in proper
quantity, is preferable. This is very rich in fertilizing
properties, and may be used on alternate years with stable
manure to good advantage.

The soil for vegetable-growing requires to be mealy
and free from lumps, and it can be kept so by means of
the decaying vegetable matter contained in stable-manure.

Lt FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

But so far as fertilizing properties go, Iam not sure but
pure fine bone is much cheaper than coarse manure. In
sections where prime stable-manure can not be obtained, I
would advise liberal applications of bone in connection
with green crops plowed under; the former as a fertilizer,
and the latter to keep the soil in good working condition.
Ground bone is now made of various grades, generally
designated as bone-dust, bone-meal, and bone-flour. The
former is the best for permanent crops, such as asparagus,
rhubarb, ete., and for seeding down to grass for renewing
the Jand; the second is suited to crops sown in the fall,
such as spinach, etc., but in either case, unless the ground
is sufficiently rich to give the plants a start, bone-flour or
guano must be used, in connection with the bone dust or
meal. Bone-flour is very fine, and acts quickly, nearly as
much so as guano, and hence is preferable for crops which
mature the same sesson they are sownor planted. There
is much adulterated bone sold at the present day, and
those who have used this kind have become discouraged,
and say that bone is of no value.

There are, however, some conscientious men engaged in
this business, and among them are Lister Brothers, of
Newark, N. J. It may seem out of place here to insert
anything that may seem like an advertisement, but as I
always use the bone ground by the above firm, and from
a long and intimate acquaintance with them, and frequent
visits to their factory while I resided near it, I can recom-
mend their productions as pure and reliable, and I deem
it just to the patrons of this work to inform them where
they can obtain a pure article in this line. There is one
thing about bone which many do not seem to compre-
hend. Let it be never so fine it does not impart all its
fertilizing properties at once, hence liberal applications
must be made, and the most soluble parts will act on the
present crop, while the balance will benefit the future
ones.

-

MANURES AND MANURING. 15

Peruvian guano is a powerful fertilizer, but requires to
be evenly distributed to prevent the growing plants from
coming in contact with any considerable portion of it, as
it is apt to be injurious to the young roots when they are
brought in sudden contact with it.

Fish are used large!y for manure at the eastern part of

‘Long Island and along the coast generally, and make a

valuable fertilizer. An excellent compost can be made
by mixing muck and fish, one small load of the. former
to one thousand of the latter, and afterwards working the
whole over with an equal bulk of stable manure. “ Fish
guano,” that is, the “scraps,” flesh, and bones of fish
from which the oil has been extracted, is also a valuable
fertilizer. Wood-ashes possess valuable fertilizing proper-
ties, and are very beneficial in preventing the ravages of
worms which attack plants at the roots. There are few
or none of the many compound manures which possess
any real value for gardening purposes.

Green manures possess great fertilizing and renovating
properties, and there is not! ing better for land than a
crop of clover plowed under. Buckwheat, corn, oats,
etc., etc., may be used for this purpose to advantage, but
clover is far the best, as the foliage not only enriches, but
the roots permeate and loosen the soil.

It is always preferable to apply manures of whatever
kind broadcast, but when this is not practicable, and
“manuring in the hills” has to be resorted to, if
stable manure is used, let it be well rotted, and when ap-
plied, thoroughly mixed with the soil, the better to retain
moisture.

A mixture of fish or fish serap, muck, and rotted manure,
makes an excellent compost for manuring in the hill. The
term “hill” as herein used should not be deemed to im-
ply that the ground must be raised, which would be in-
jurious, except in case of sweet-potatoes, watermelons,
and such plants as require a very dry soil. The term is

16 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

a very common one, and serves to distinguish between
manuring broadcast, or at specified distances. Some
spread the manure broadcast over the land in the fall
and winter; this plan, however, is practised mainly by
farmers, and is seldom resorted to by gardeners, who pre-
fer to cart out the manure the latter part of winter, place
itin large heaps near the point where it is to be used, and
cart on the land and spread it, immediately before
plowing.

SOWING SEEDS.

The proper distribution of seed in sowing is quite im-
portant, and there are few who can do it just right.
Happily, machines have been invented for the purpose,
and many of them do the work more evenly than it can
possibly be done by hand. Some seeds, from their peculiar
formation, have to be sown by hand. It is a very difficult
matter to give directions for sowing seeds, and to say
how much is required to the acre. Much depends upon
the season, and also upon the freshness of the seed, and
even seed known to be new may be partly deficient in
germinating properties.

The best rule is, when sowing in rows, to be governed
by the character of the seed and relative strength of the
young plants—for instance, carrot, parsnip, and some
others have light seed, and the young plants are feeble.
Such should be sown thickly, and afterward be thinned
out, as directed under each separate head.

Others—plants such as cucumbers, melons, etc.—are
liable to be attacked by bugs, and it is well to make
some allowance on this account. Most heavy seeds can
be sown thin, especially if broadcast, the chances being
that they will be too thick, especially if sown by inexpe-
rienced hands. Take, for instance, the seed of flat tur-
nip, one pound of which, in measure but little more

TRANSPLANTING. 1¥

than a pint, will sow an acre of land, but it requires a
very nice calculation to get the seed evenly distributed
and make such a small quantity cover so much ground.

Seeds sown by machine may be regulated by sowing
first on a cloth or floor, and setting the gauge to the
proper grade. Some seeds are variable in size; such
should be divided by sifting, and, if sown by machine,
put in separately. It is advisable, if possible, to always
sow as soon as the ground is prepared, while the surface
soil is still fresh and moist, and when covered by raking,
always draw the rake lengthwise with the rows. Very
fine seed must not be covered too deep. Directions on
this point are given under each separate head,

TRANSPLANTING.

This is a very important operation, and but few under-
stand it properly. As a rule, a plant when set out should
be so firmly fastened that upon taking the point of a leaf
between the thumb and forefinger it will break away be-
fore the plant can be pulled out. Even this test may be
withstood and the plant still die, from the fact that it is
improperly planted. It is often the case that a mass of
earth is pressed against the stalk at the surface, while the
root is left so loose that it can not get established at once,
and the plant dies, or lingers along until perchance there
comes a rain to wash the earth about the root, when it
starts feebly, and at maturity can not be what it might
have been had not its growth been materially checked at
the start. With the dibble make a hole larger than the
root, that the fibers may be ina natural position; put in
the plant to the first leaves, or as deep as possible without
covering the heart. Holding the plant with the left hand,
pass the point of the dibble down, close to the plnt, car-
rying with it a little soil, which press firmly against the
root, and knock loose soil into the hole left by the dibble.

18 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

Soil pressed against the stalk near the surface has a
tendency to prevent the earth from washing down and
settling about the root, and can not possibly be of any use.

The operation of transplanting should always be done,
if in spring or autumn, while the earth is fresh, as plant-
ing in dry soil is very tedious, the holes filling as fast as
made, I‘or summer transplanting it is best to prepare
and mark out the land in good season. When the rain
comes, be ready to go at it while the soil is in condition,
and unless the amount of rain is such as to make the
earth thin mud, do not stop, for there may not soon be
another chance. It sometimes may occur that the sum-
mer rains may not be sufficient to thoroughly saturate the
soil and insure growth of the plants. In this case “ pud-
dling ” must be resorted to. Near the plant-bed make a
hole about one foot diameter, and six or eight inches
deep; into this pour water, and with a hoe mix to the
consistency of paste or thin mud, which will adhere to
the roots. Let the plants be held evenly in the hands,
and the roots passed a few times through the mud as each
handful is pulled. Lay them in baskets, protect from
the sun and air as much as possible, and have them trans-
planted very soon after they are pulled.

In taking up plants from the cold-frame, use a spade to
raise them, thus securing whole roots with considerable
earth attached. Plants in hot-beds should be saturated
well with water before pulling, to accomplish the same
object.

The work of transplanting may be greatly facilitated
by adopting a regular system of operations. Let one
man attend to pulling the plants after enough have been
drawn for a start. Have an active boy for each man to
carry and drop the plants. If desirable to have the
plants at even distances in the rows, mark the same on a
pole, and by it plant the middle one of every seven or
nine rows, which answers as a guide for the boys, who

—S ss

INSECTS. 19

can drop the plants on the other rows, either
side, directly opposite. The top of the plant should be
laid to the left hand of the planters, to be the more readily
taken up for depositing in the hole, which, by the way,
should be made with a dibble in the right hand while the
plant is being picked up with the lett.

It is not advisable to drop out plants of celery, leek,
etc., which are set close in the rows, but here time may
be saved by having one person to carry the plants in a
basket, and hand them out as wanted by the planters.
Should watering have to be resorted to, let it be done
while there is no sun on the plants, as this would scorch
the leaves, and the surface of the soil be apt to bake. The
best time for watering is after sundown, or at least late in
the afternoon.

In transplanting into cold-frame or hot-bed, let the
earth be freshly dug or raked, and after setting the plants,
partially shade them for afew days, but do not wholly
exclude the light. Use two broad boards to step on; the
face of one of these may be notched out at the distances
required between the plants, when regularity is desired.

INSECTS.

The insects which annoy the gardener and damage or
destroy his crops are of several kinds.

The Striped Bug is very destructive to young plants of
cucumber, melon, squash, etc. Tobacco-dust, bone-flour,
ashes, soot, etc., are used to destroy or drive them away,
but I have never found anything equal to shell-lime, air-
slaked, for their destruction.

The Cabbage Flea, a small, black insect, which attacks
young plants of cabbage, turnip, etc., is also very de-
structive, but easily conquered by early applications of
the last-named remedy in liberal quantity.

The Cabbage Louse (I use the common names), a small,

20 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

bluish insect, often infests crops of growing cabbages.
They are not particularly destructive to these, but when
a mass of them collect on the heads, as they frequently
do, their appearance is spoiled, as they can scarcely be
gotten off without removing all the outer leaves, and
thus damaging the sale. These pests, though not very
destructive to the growing cabbages, are very much so to
the plant when producing seed. It was only a few years
ago that I had a crop of seed cabbages entirely destroyed
by them. They first appear, in small clusters, at the tip
of the branches about the time the blossoms are
coming, and if not immediately attended to, soon envelop
the leaves and stalks to their total destruction.

They are generally the worst in dry seasons, and some-
times a heavy shower, before they get much start, will
destroy them. I do not know of any positive remedy ;
lime will check but not destroy them. As soon as they
appear on seed-cabbage, the tip on which they lodge must
be nipped off, and attention must be paid to them every
day until the stalks and pods are quite hard.

A new enemy to the cabbage family has lately ap-
peared in the form of a green grub, which eats away
the leaves, and in some sections whole fields have been
destroyed. There is no positive remedy yet found
against them, though many have been tried, with varying
success. They are not yet common in this section, hence
I have not had occasion to experiment with them.

Another very injurious insect is the one which produces
what is known as “club-root” in cabbages, cauliflower,
etc. Various theories have been advanced as the cause
of this malformation, but it is, beyond a doubt, caused
by a maggot which eats into the root, causing it to swell
in various shapes, and destroying the plant. I have no
doubt that the eggs are deposited in the manure, and so
taken to the field ; the maggot there hatches, and at once
commences the work of destruction. My conclusions in

ii

INSECTS. 21

this matter have been arrived at from observations made
on three different crops of radishes, and here, to be the
better understood, I will say I believe the Cabbage Mag-
got and the Radish Maggot to be one and the same.

A few years azo I sowed three pieces of land with the
White Summer Radish, one on land manured with stable
manure at the time of sowing, the next without manure,
where a liberal application had been made the previous
year, and the other without manure, but on one end of
the land a heap of stable-manure had lain during the
winter, and was removed to adjacent land for an early
crop. The radishes on the first piece were mostly mag-
got-eaten; those on the second were not affected in the
least, nor yet were those on the third bed, except where the
manure heap had been. The theory that hog-manure
will produce club-root is not entirely unfounded; for,
while it may not be the immediate cause, yet no doubt,
from its nature, it is the most attractive to the fly in seek-
ing a place to deposit her eggs, and by it more are carried
to the ground than in horse or cow manure. I firmly
believe that much depends on the previous treatment of
manure, such as heating, turning, etc. (by which the eggs
may be destroyed), for the prevention of club-root.

Shell-lime is an effectual preventive, and about Newark,
N. J., market-gardeners apply it heavily once in about
five years with good results.

Undoubtedly the maggots are killed by it before they
can begin the work of destruction. Where lime can not
be had conveniently, and even where it can, [ advise put-
ting the manure, especially that intended for cabbages
and cauliflower, into a large heap, letting it heat, and
occasionally working it over to prevent scorching.

Henderson advises bone-flour as a remedy for club-root.
One thing is certain, if my view is correct; we have in
this valuable fertilizer the best substitute for stable-

2 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

manure, and one that is free from the eggs which produce
the Cabbage Maggot.

COLD-FRAMES OR COLD-BEDS.

These are constructed of common plank, usually about
twelve inches high at the back, and eight inches at the
front; in width according to the length of the sashes to
be used, and in length to suit the number of sashes re-
quired; the planks must be supported by durable posts
firmly set in the ground, to which they are nailed. They
should always be erected in a sheltered position, facing
southward, if possible, and on ground nearly or quite
level, or perhaps gently sloping to the south. Some use
slides upon which to run the sashes up and down; these
are very convenient. They are placed at such a distance
apart that the edges of the sashes rest on the slides, and
are separated by a narrow strip, thus making the opera-
tion of airing quite easy. Te slides are dovetailed into
the plank; hence they are held firm, and yet can be
readily removed when occasion may require. The soil
of a cold-bed should be light, dry, and free from stones,
and enriched according to its intended use; for if designed
only as a place in which to preserve plants during winter,
moderate fertility is all that is required; but if used for
growing and forcing crops for market, it must be made
and kept rich by liberal applications of fertilizers.

The soil should be spaded deep and finely pulverized
twice before. planting, adding well-rotted stable-manure
and bone-flour, which should be thoroughly worked into
the soil in quantity according to the intended use of the
bed, the surface finely raked, and the.front slightly raised.
This is from the fact that the sashes inclining to the front
carry the water that way, more or less leakage taking
place, beside the lower board shading inside of the frame
renders the lower part wet and cold, and a little elevation

— se

COLD-FRAMES OR COLD-BEDS, rae

of soil here has a good effect. Cabbage, cauliflower, and
lettuce plants are preserved in cold-beds, which renders
them hardy and capable of being transplanted very early
in the spring, and to be harvested in time to allow a sec-
ond crop to be grown on the same ground.

The seeds should be sown about the middle of Septem-
ber, and to make a sure thing it is best to sow on the
tenth and again on the twentieth of the month, each
time using more seed than sufficient to produce the re-
quisite number of plants. I might here add that cabbage
and cauliflower seed will give about three thousand and
lettuce-seed six thousand plants to an ounce.

Select a piece of good soil; plow or spade to a depth
of eight inches; make the surface fine and even by thor-
ough raking; spread the seed thin over the entire surface,
and cover by raking in or sprinkling fine soil over the
whole to a depth of one half an inch, slightly pressing
with the back of the spade, and if the earth is dry
sprinkle with water in the evening. As soon as the
plants have formed the second leaves, or become large
enough to handle conveniently, they should be trans.
planted into the cold-frame, the soil being prepared as
above directed, and it will be found advisable to prepare
the bed just immediately preceding the transplanting,
the soil then possessing a natural moisture, which is a
condition far preferable to that presented when the sur-
face has become dry, and one which can not be obtained
by artificial watering.*

It is very important here, as in all transplanting, that
the earth be firmly pressed against the root. Cabbage
and cauliflower must be set down to the first leaves, or
as deep as possible without covering the hearts. By doing
this, the stalk is more thoroughly protected, and in case
the plants become severely frozen, the frost will draw out
through the earth, and they will not be injured as when
exposed directly to the sun and air.

Re

24 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

Lettuce, however, must not be planted very deep; if the
whole of the root be covered, it will be quite sufficient.

The plants may be shaded for a day or two, and if the
earth is dry a light sprinkling of water may be given, but
this will not be necessary if the earth is fresh and

| has been pressed firmly to the roots. The plants may be
set two and a half by two inches apart; but they will be
stronger and better by setting three inches each way, ex-
cept lettuce, which will have ample room at the distance
first named. They should remain exposed until the ap-
proach of severe weather, when the sashes must be put on,
and during very severe frosts beds of cauliflower may be
further protected at night by mats, old carpet, or the like
thrown over the sashes. Always bear in mind that these
plants are placed in the cold-frame for preservation, and
not to make growth; hence, after they have become
rooted, the bed must be kept rather dry than otherwise,
and the most important point of all is, to give an abun-
dance of air. Whenever the thermometer, in the shade
on a still day, shows ten degrees, the sashes may be pushed
down one or two inches from the top; attwenty degrees,
they may be pushed down nearly half-way, and at thirty
degrees they can be drawnentirely off. Where slides are
not used the sashes may be raised by. means of wedges
placed under the upper end to correspond as nearly as pos-
sible with the above.

These plants are almost hardy in the open ground, and
as the glass over them concentrates the sun’s rays and
heats the air in the bed, great care must be taken lest
the plants become drawn thereby. There is much
greater danger of keeping them too warm than too cold.

Especially is it very important that they should be ex-
posed for a fortnight before setting in the open ground,
and if they have been kept cool and not drawn, the frames
may be left open during frosty nights to harden the plants,
guarding against snow, which would be lable to destroy

HOT-BEDS, pT

some of the plants by breaking the hearts. To guard
against the possibility of this, where sashes are removed
to use on other frames, it is well to have at hand
a supply of shutters, of the same size as the sashes.

Cold-frames are extensively used about New-York City
for forcing lettuce, cucumbers, and parsley, and may be
used to advantage for producing cabbage, cauliflower, let-
tuce, and celery plants early in the spring, sweet-potato
plants later, herbs for transplanting, forcing beets, carrots,
and radishes, forwarding cucumbers, melons, squashes, and .
lima beans for transplanting to the open ground, and har-
dening off tomato, pepper, and other plants, all of which
are duly noticed under their respective heads.

HOT-BEDS.

These differ from cold-frames mainly in being mostly
composed of partly fermented stable-manure, which gives
off great heat, and when properly worked and compactly
formed continues to do so for a long time, and this, with
the assistance of the sun, the heat of which is concentrated
by the glass of the sashes, enables us to force or hasten the
growth of many vegetables much in advance of the natural
seasons, and further aids us in growing such veectables as
are natives of a tropical climate, by forwarding the plants,
and which on account of the shortness of our seasons could
not be successfully grown, if the sowing of the seeds of
such was delayed until the earth had become sufficiently
warmed to allow them to germinate.

There are various ways of making a hot-bed, but I will
only describe the two leading methods. A stationary hot-
bed is made by digging a pit about two and a half feet
deep, boarding up the sides and ends to about one foot
above ground on the back and three inches on the front,
in width and length according to the size and number of
the sashes to be used, and firnished with slides, as in the

2

26 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

cold-frame, to assist in giving air, ete. Into this pit place
one foot of leaves or coarse litter, and manure to a depth
of one and a half foot, which must be trodden down rather
firmly, the surface made even, and covered with from three
to six inches of soil, as the case may require. This style is
best suited for forcing lettuce, rhubarb, asparagus, dwarf
cabbages, and such vegetables; but I much prefer for
general use the movable hot-bed, which is made by exca-
vating one and a half foot deep, two feet wider than the
frame to be used, and two feet longer than will accommo-
date two frames of four sashes each, and not boarding up.
In this pit place one foot of leaves or coarse litter, and on
that one foot or more of manure, well shaken up, but do
not tread it down—the oaly pressure necessary being a
light patting with the back of the fork to even the surface,
Throw two planks across on which to walk, and stepping
on them, place on the frames, one foot from cither end, and
leaving one foot on the outside, back and front; square the
frame by means of a sash; put in three inches of soil, fill-
ing mostly around the sides and ends, to assist these parts
in settling, as the center will naturally settle first ; put on
the sashes, bank up the outside, especially on the north,
with coarse manure. Choose a mild day for the work,
and let it be done as expeditiously as possible, that the
manure may not be too much chilled.

The object of having the pit wider than the frame, is to
allow the manure, earth, and frame to settle evenly in a
body. The frames can be made from ordinary thirteen-
foot plank, accommodating four sashes, six by three feet,
with sliders, without waste, and will be full heavy enough
for two men to handle, being two planks on the back and
one on the front, braced with pieces of joist in the corners
and center, to which the planks are nailed, the ends being
raised the thickness of the sashes.

The sliders can be dovetailed in the same as the cold-
frame and the frames made without. bottoms. By either

FORCING-PIT. ry

method, when the bed hasstood three days, the sashes and
sliders should be removed, the soil raked even and fine, and
as much more added as may be necessary, which will depend
on the crop to be grown, directions for which are given
under each separate veer

It is very important to have good manure, and to have
it well worked over before using, to insure success in mak-
ing a hot-bed. Manure as it comes from the stables is
generally too coarse, and makestoorank a heat. It should
be thrown in a heap, and when heated, which may be
known by the vapor arising from it, the whole must be
turned and forked over, and this sometimes repeated four
or five different times, but usually three good workings
will temper it, the last being given three or four days be-
fore it is to be used. The manure that is shipped from
New York City, by boat and railroad, is generally in
good condition for making a hot-bed.

The soil should be light, free, and moderately rich,
though I have found that which has long been used, to
have a tendency to cause the young plants to damp off,
and I would recommend using one half well-rotted sods
and one half old soil, thoroughly mixed.

Select a sheltered, warm position for a hot-bed, and one
that may be permanent, as the same pits or trenches last
from year to year, the earth and manure being removed to
a heap, and the frames, if movable, snugly stored away to
do duty again the following and many successive years.

FORCING-PIT.

This is an arrangement similar to the stationary hot-
bed frame, and can be used for forwarding rhubarb, cauli-
flower, cabbage, etc., without resorting to the use of hot
manure, and sometimes a frame is used, the same as a
movable hot-bed frame, but built one plank higher back

28 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

and front. Directions for using are given under the
head of such vegetables as are grown in this manner.

TOOLS” AND” THEDE.> Uses:

The tools required in gardening and seed-growing are
quite numerous. ?

Various patterns of different kinds have been invented,
some improvements on the old style, but many of no prac-
tical value. I shall avoid as much as possible reeommend-
ing any particular pattern of either tool of which I make
mention, but leave the selection to the judgment of those
who may have occasion to use them ; because what suits one
may not suit another.

Piew.—Use a plow which will positively invert, that is,
completely turn over the soil. Take a narrow furrow, and
while it is important to plow deep, yet it is not expedient
to do so until the land is made comparatively rich. Plow
five or six inches deep, following with the subsoil plow to a
depth of six inches more. At the next plowing run the sur-
face plow deeper, and so continue each time until a depth of
ten inches or more is attained, frequently applying
manure, without which deep plowing is injurious, but with
it vastly beneficial.

Subsoiling may be done frequently with good results,
and the depth increased gradually to eighteen inches.

Harrow.—The most suitable harrow is made square,
about five and a half feet either way, with four cross-
pieces, which, with the front and back, each contain al-
ternately eight and seven teeth, nme inches apart,
set diagonally, so as to cut four and a half inches.

The teeth should be made of one-inch square iron,
pointed and hardened, and the points should project eight
inches and the heads one inch.

The ground should be twice gone over, then reverse

TOOLS AND THEIR USES. 29

the harrow and “back it.” This will generally make the
surface fine, but if not, go once more over with the teeth
and again with the back of the harrow. When the
ground is in fit condition to work, it can be made suffi-
ciently fine and even by skillful “ back-harrowing,” to
admit of sowing nearly all kinds of seeds, but occasion-
ally to get a bed in prime order the surface must be well
raked.

Cultivator.—The “ harrow-tooth ” cultivator is requisite
in garden crops while the plants are small.

Afterward, the “ broad-toothed” or any of the im-
proved styles may be used, always going twice each way.

Always bear in mind that the “ cultivator ” is better to
prevent than to destroy weeds, so commence early and re-
peat often; never wait until the weeds can be seen.

Hoe.—The operation of hoeing is, in gardening, a very
important one.

_It is necessary to hoe deep to loosen the soil; and
thoroughly pulverize it to effectually destroy young
weeds.

A steel-toothed rake may be used in the manner of a
hoe to advantage in disturbing the soil before the weeds
get any start, which, by the way, should never be allowed.
The “ pronged hoe” is effectual in loosening the soil and
preventing the weeds growing; taken in time, more
work can be done with one than with a common hoe in the
same time. The “ push or scuffle hoe” is very useful for
loosening the surface soil, between rows of small plants
before the other hoes can be used, and some crops can be
worked almost entirely with them. They are also useful
in cleaning ground for a second crop. Sizes vary from four
to twelve inches, all of which are useful.

Spade.—Spade cultivation is no longer considered the
one great point in gardening. Henderson very truthfully
remarks, “ No digging in the ordinary way can pulverize

39 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

the soil so thoroughly as can be done by the plow and
harrow, nor no trenching much surpass in its results
that done by thorough subsoiling.” Still, cold-beds and
small pieces of ground must sometimes be dug, and it is
advisable that it be done well. Never set the spade far
back ; or, in other words, take a little earth at one time,
invert it, and pulverize well with the spade, if one is used,
but the “spading-fork” will be found a good substitute,
and much better for this purpose.

Rake,—The ordinary wooden rake contains ten teeth;
those best adapted to garden use have fourteen. In cov-
ering seed, rake lengthwise with the rows, taking from
two to four rows together, breaking lumps with the back
of the rake. In smoothing the surface for sowing, rake as
much as possible from the sides, to avoid unnecessary
treading over the bed. Steel rakes have fine sharp teeth,
and are very useful where it is important to have the sur-
face soil extra fine. When used as a substitute for the
hoe, various sizes are necessary to accommodate the width
between the rows.

Garden-Line.—This is very essential where straight
rows are desired, and such certainly always should be.

Let the line be strong, though not heavy, as long as
the lands, and for convenience be wound on a reel, and
have a sharp-pointed iron at each end for fastening into the
earth. To get the line perfectly straight, set the pin at
one end, unreel the line, draw it tight, and fasten the reel-
pin firmly in the earth; return to the center, raise the line
with the thumb and finger, four or five feet from the
ground, and let it quickly descend—using the line in fact
in the same manner as a carpenter uses a chalk-line.

Markers,—These are indispensable in marking rows for
sowing ,seeds or setting plants. To make them, take a
piece of 4x4 joist six and a half feet long, to which attach
a handle and cross-piece, the whole forming the letter ‘T.

TOOIS AND THEIR USES 31

To the joist, or head, nail strips two inches wide, pro-
jecting six inches, and slightly sharpened atthe ends. Two
markers are requisite, on one of which set the strips or
teeth, ten inches apart on one side, and fifteen inches on
the reverse. On the other set the teeth on opposite sides,
twelve and eighteen inches apart.

By this plan four markers are combined in two, and
facilities are afforded for marking rows ten, twelve, fifteen,
and eighteen inches apart, or tne spaces may be varied to
suit.

A more durable marker can be made by having light,
flat iron teeth, but in this case the frame must not be so
heavy, and the whole may be iron-braced.

In marking rows, first draw the line straight at one
side of the bed, and walking backwards, draw the marker
along, keeping the outer tooth nearly up to the line; then
set the outer tooth in the inner mark, and return, and so
continue until the land is finished.

By care, a broad bed can thus be marked out, and the
rows all be straight, by once stretching the line. These
markers can be used for wide planting, as, for instance,
cabbages at thirty inches; use the fifteen inch side and
plant the alternate rows.

Dibble.—The best dibble or implement for transplant-
ing can be easily made from a natural bent limb of a tree’
—apple generally affording the best. It should be ten
inches long, with the crook for the handle four inches
more; the main part one and a half inch in diameter
at the centre, and from there gradually tapering to a
point, which should be lightly ironed and the whole made
smooth. This style is far preferable to the old one, made
from the upper part of a spade-handle.

Seed-Sowers.—These are very useful, doing the work
easier, quicker, and in most cases better than by hand.
They are regulated generally by changeable slides, con-

32 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

taining holes nicely graded as to size, and directions for
setting to sow the different seeds accompany each ma-
chine; but as “ circumstances alter cases,” it is best not
to pry too much attention to these instructions.

The best way is, to spread a cloth and sow some seed
on it, varying the grade to suit the seed and the quantity
required. All sticks and chaff should be removed from
seed before sowing it by machine.

Forks,—The most convenient fork for handling manure
is one that is light, though it must be strong. Whena
fork is used to separate stalks from seed after thrashing,
one with very few tines should be used, that the seed may
be thoronghly shaken out, but it is advisable to do this
work by the hands alone.

Shears.—The spring shears, such as are used for prun-
Ing, are very useful for cutting seed-stalks, and are far
preferable to a knife. Sickles make quicker work than
shears in cutting the stalks of cabbage or turnip seed,
but there is more jar, which causes some loss of seed, and
upon the whole shears may be considered the best imple-
ment for cutting seeds.

Trowel,—This is an important implement in lifting
plants, when a ball of earth is required, attached to the
roots. It is also useful in taking up dry onions, especially
“sets,” and very handy to assist in transplanting egg-
plants, tomatoes, etc., which are taken up with balls of
earth.

.

Straw Mats.—These are very useful for protecting hot-
beds and cold-frames, and covering onions, onion sets, etc.

The usual size is five by seven feet. To make them,
erect a frame in the market-house, or some out-buil:ling,
using for the sides common boards set edgewise against
the wall or partition, with a piece of joist at the top and
one near the floor at the bottom.

The frame should be five feet wide, and in hight from

TOOLS AND THEIR USES. 33

the floor to the ceiling. In each piece of joist firmly set
iron staples one foot »part and six inches from either side.
From the lower staples to the upper ones firmly stretch
strings of tarred marline, seven feet long. Make a
straw band five feet long and one inch thick, by
firmly wrapping the straw with tarred string. Fasten
the band securely at the bottom of the upright cords
by means of tarred strings, which for convenience’ sake
may be wound on sticks, and must be attached to the up-
rights, and afterwards serves for binding the straw.

Supposing two men to be engaged at this work, which
is the most expeditious plan, let each be provided with a
bundle of straw, and taking sufficient to make an inch in
diameter when bound, place the but-ends against the
frame on each side, and wrap the tarred strings around
the straw and the upright at the same time, passing it
through in the form of a half-hitch, and draw it tight. To
make the strings draw easy, rub them with soap. When
the desired length is completed, put on a band as in the
start. It is very important to have good rye straw for
this purpose. °

It should be reaped, and hand-thrashed, or, what is bet-
ter still, be reaped when in blossom, whereby it does not
require thrashing, hence is much stronger, and moreover
does not contain any grain to attract mice when the mats
are stored. =

Straw mats, if rolled up and stored away when out of

use, and temporarily put away during wet weather, when
in use, will last a great many years.

Sashes.—These are very important. They may be
made of any convenient size. Those generally used by
gardeners are three by six feet, the frames of clear pine,
an inch and a half thick; the glass six by eight inches, and
of the best quality. By keeping them glazed and painted
they will last many years.

Q*

34 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

Shutters,—These are made of worked ceiling boards,
of the same size as the sashes, and are battened the same
asa door. They are very convenient to put over plants
in the frames, from which the sashes have been removed,
in case of sudden cold or storm, and ¢:n also be used over
the sashes in cold weather as a protection. They are very
convenient to dry seeds on, and may be put to a variety
of uses.

Wheelbarrows.—The person who has vegetables to
prepare for market, will find these very convenient in
bringing the produce from the field to the market-house,
also in moving plants of egg-plant, tomato, etc., from the
hot-beds to the ground, and there are numerous times
when the wheelbarrow is quite as important as the wagon
to the gardener. Those generally used by market-gar-
deners are of the box pattern, and usually twice as large
as those sold in the stores.

Fan-Mill.—This to the seed-grower is very valuable,
and it is important to have sieves for it of every grade, to
accommodate seeds of any size or weight. In cleaning
seeds with the fan-mill, let them run slowly and. evenly,
and regulate the sieves according to the size of the seed,
and the force of wind according to its weight; light
seeds requiring a light wind, and vice versa.

Sieves.—These are also indispensable in cleaning seeds,
as many kinds can not be thoroughly cleaned by the fan-
mill. It is well to have a full set, from No. 2 to No. 40,
The numbers are in accordance with the meshes to a
square inch, and from No. 8 upwards should be of brass
wire, as those of fine iron wire soon rust out.

Cloths.—Cloths for gathering seeds, etc., are very use-
ful, and it is well to have a good supply. A cloth the full
size of the thrashing floor is useful in saving seed, unless
the joints are very tight, and even then the seed can be
more readily handled. and is not so liable to be broken

TOOLS AND THEIR USES. 3D

when on a cloth as wnen thrashed on the bare floor.
Another cloth, sufficiently large to cover the bottom and
sides of a wagon, is necessary in carrying seeds from the
field to the barn to be thrashed, and may also be used for
covering vegetables when being transported by wagon.
This and the preceding one should be made of light cot-
ton-duck ; sometimes old sails can be had sufficiently
sound to answer the purpose. “Hand-cloths” nine feet
square are useful for carrying seeds. These should be
made of an article called “burlaps,” except such as are
only used to dry seeds on, which may be of strong
m:islin.

Wagons.— Market-gardeners who convey their produce
directly to market, use spring wagons, made very strong,
to carry a heavy load of vegetables, and bring back a
load of manure. Such a wagon will be very useful to the
farm-gardener, in conveying produce to the point of ship-
ment, and also to the seed-grower in carrying seeds, etc.,
from the field to the barn, and for sundry other purposes ;
but in these cases, the latter especially, it need not be so
heavy. A convenient size is one large enough to carry
ten barrels, with high body and flaring side-boards. For
carting manure, farm wagons are certainly the best, when
conveying it any considerable distance, but for this pur-
pose, at home, dumping carts are far preferable.

Buildings.—Good comfortable stables and barn room,
as well as sheds for wagons, plows, sashes, mats, etc., are
indispensable, and in addition, those who grow vegetables
for market will need a place wherein to prepare stuff for
market, and water convenient is necessary, for such
things as require washing. This building, generally
called the “market-house,” should be of good size, and
may be used for storing those of the smaller tools which
are frequently needed,

The upper part will be very convenient for storage pur-
poses. A good cellar beneath will not be amiss.

FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

i)
>)

The seed-grower requires a room similar to this in
which to work wet days, clean seeds in winter, et¢., and
in addition, a diy, well-ventilated room for storing, and
an abundance of loft room for drying seeds, all of which
should be so constructed as to be free from mice and rats,
which make sad havoe among seeds when they once get
in. Seed lofts should be divided, to prevent the seeds be-
coming mixed, by any means, ‘while drying.

STORING ROOTS. FOR. WINTER.

Many roots are the most salable in winter, when there
are no green vegetables, and many seed crops require the
roots to be carefully preserved from frost during winter
and transplanted sound in the spring. To preserve them
properly is an important matter. The most natural and
the simplest plan, is to put them in pits. These should
not be very deep, nor very long, as it is not advisable to
store many in one bulk. A good size is one that will hold
about thirty-five bushels, twelve feet long, two feet deep,
two feet wide at the bottom, and two and a half feet at
the top. The pit should be filled rather more than even-
full, covered with six inches of straw and eight inches of
earth, which must be packed firm to turn the water.

“Chimneys” of straw may protrude from the center
for ventilation, bet if the bulk is small and the roots are
perfectly dry when put away, this will not be necessary.
At the approach of severe cold weather, the covering
should be increased to eighteen inches, or at least enough
to keep out the frost.

Root-cecllars were formerly used to some extent, and
will yet be found very convenient, where small lots of
roots are frequently wanted. They can be made by dig-
ging, say six feet deep, any length and breadth, setting
posts and boarding up the sides, covering with a strong

HARVESTING AND CLEANING SEEDS. ov

roof, over which put twelve inches of soil and sod the
whole.

The door should be to the southward, and so arranged
as to be covered in severe cold weather. No windows are
necessary, as all roots keep best away from the light.
The inside may be divided into bins, of any convenient
size, but here, as in pitting,it will be advisable not to put
too many roots in one bulk. An ordinary cellar can be
used, if free from frost and yet not over-warm; but the
main difficulty generally is, cellars are too dry, and there
is too much light. Roots will keep well in a cool cellar,
placed in heaps, and covered with thin sods,

- Onions should be kept in a dry loft, weil ventilated,
and spread thin until settled cold weather, when they
may be put thicker, and covered with straw mats, straw,
orlay. They must not be disturbed while frozen, nor the
covering removed until they become thawed out away
from the light and air. Directions for preserving green
roots, such as celery, etc., are given under tleir respective

heads.
HARVESTING AND CLEANING SEEDS.

Particular attention must be paid to these two points,
Seeds, to look well, should be perfectly clean, entirely free
from chaff, sticks, sand, and all forcign matter, and in
cleaning, much depends on how they have been harvested.

Beans, peas, etc., will be more or less damaged in ap-
pearance if exposed to rains after they are ripe; so also
will wet weather injure seeds of cabbage, turnip, ete., by
destroying the color, and causing some to sprout if long
exposed.

In fact, all seeds have a much brighter appearance when
harvested as soon as ripe, than when allowed to be wea-
ther-beaten. Hence, while it is essential that a'l seeds

33 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

should be fully matured, it is also important to gather
them as soon as they are ripe.

The thrashing of seeds must be carefully done, to avoid
breaking with the flail, and grinding under foot, especially |
those of a soft and oily nature. Thrashing should be
done, so far as practicable, when the air is dry. In fer-
menting seeds of pulpy vegetables for washing, judgment
is required, for while, as a rule, no seeds are injured so far
as germinating is concerned so long as they lie in the nat-
ural juice, yet if allowed to remain longer than necessary
to remove the mucilaginous covering they soon lose color.

In washing, it is very essential that it be done in the
early part of a clear day, that the seeds shall not be long
wet by water, lest some may sprout, and hence be spoiled.
Never put seeds away in bulk, until they are thoroughly
frce from moisture.

FALL PLOWING.

I desire to ca‘l the attention of those who till the soil,
especially those who may go into the business of farm-
gardening or seed-growing, to the importance, in my
opinion, of plowing land in the fall. The subject has
been discussed at various times, and while some have
asserted that it is productive of but little or no gcod
results, yet there are some who deem this practice of
great importance as being vastly beneficial to the soil.

It is the custom almost universally among market-gar-
deners, with whom it is important to have the soil fine
and free from lumps, to plow their ground deeply and
harrow thoroughly after the crops have been removed in
the fall, for they understand] full well there is nothing
which will so completely aid in pulverizing the soil as
the action of frost, and being loosened by the plow, the
frost can act more effectually during the winter; and
moreover, the sun acts more forcibly upon it in the

FALL PLOWING. 39

spring; consequently, it thaws quicker, and can be
worked earlier than when left as the previous crop was
taken from it.

Some contend that on fall-plowed land the snows of
winter are as beneficial as an ordinary dressing of ma-
nure, and while I can not vouch for the truth of this, yet
there can be no doubt that the snow collects and brings
with it the gases and impurities floating in the air, which
may be beneficial to the soil, and can, of course, become
more thoroughly impregnated where the land is newly
plowed.

One thing is positively certain, that land plowed in the
fall or carly winter can be plowed again in the spring
earlier and easier and more free from lumps than that not
fall-plowed, and this with the comparative ease with
which it can be worked during the summer wiil more
than compensate for the time consumed in extra plowing,
to say nothing of the increase of crops brought about by
the land being in suitable condition for the roots to take
hold, and to find nourishment for the growing plant.

40 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

VEGETABLES AND THEIR SEEDS.

ASPARAGUS. |

The increasing demand and consequent high prices ob-
tained for this vegetable, as well as its availability for
transportation, render it an object worthy the attention
of the farm-gardener. Quantities of it are being annually
planted at the east end of Long Island, where the charac-
ter of the soil and the humid, saline air seems particularly
adapted to its growth. As a general rule, asparagus suc-
ceeds best near the sea-coast, though it can be (and is)
profitably grown far inland, and upon almost any soil, by
proper preparation and careful attention, and in fact this
is a very essential point and the great secret of success in
any locality. Those who contemplate growing this vege-
table for profit will do well to bear in mind the latter
fact; and, moreover, it matters not how well the bed may
have been prepared and enriched in the beginning, unless
it is kept up to a high state of fertility by annual applica-
tions of manure in liberal quantity and thorough working,
all preliminary labor will have been in vain. An aspara-
gus bed, thoroughly prepared and properly attended to,
will continue to yield in large quantity for an indefinite
number of years, most writers placing the time at twenty,
but I have known of at least one bed producing profit-
ably for thirty years from the time of planting.

Growing the Plants,—The so‘l best adapted to grow-
ing asparagus roots or plants is a deep loam where sand
predominates, and which has been well manured the pre-
ceding year. Give a good dressing of stable-manure,
plowed under, or bone-dust, bone-phosphate, or guano

ASPARAGUS. 41

harrowed in. The ground should be deeply and thor-
oughly plowed, and harrowed fine. Mark out rows
fifteen inches apart, about two inches deep, and sow the
seed in them evenly and thinly as early in the spring as
the ground ean be worked. If the plants are to be used
when one year old, thin to three inches apart as soon as
they are up. If not to be used until the second year,
they will not require thinning if evenly sown.

As soon as tlie plants are up, use a twelve-inch push or
scuffle-hoe between the rows, and remove all weeds in the
rows by hand, and at the same time thin the plants if it is
intended to transplant them at one year old.

About a fortnight after, use the prong-loe to loosen the
soil. Keep free from weeds all the season. Let the stalks
remain on the bed until spring to protect the young roots
from severe freezing and to prevent the ground from
heaving. If the plants are not removed in spring, the
only attention required the second season will be to
oceasionally loosen the soil, and keep them free from
weeds. .

One pound of seed will produce ten thousand plants.
The roots may be obtained from any nurseryman or
seedsman if it is desirable to save the time and trouble
of growing them. One-year-old plants, cr those two
years, grown in good soil and not stunted, are the best,
though they may be used at three years old.

Soil and Preparation.—Asparagus can be grown in
almost any soil, but succeeds best in a sandy loam with
deep surface and porous clay or sandy subsoil. It can
scarcely be made too rich, nor be too well prepared. It
isa rank feeder, and its roots penetrate the earth to a
great depth and in every direction ; therefore, the more
assistance given to the plant by thorough cultivation, the
greater will be the product. The land intended for an
asparagus-bed should be deeply plowed in the fall, using
at the same time the lifting subsoil plow, which should go

42 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,

as deep as possible, following with the harrow until the
surface soil is finely pulverized.

In the spring, apply well-rotted stable-manure, broad-
cast, at the rate of sixty-two horse-loads to the acre, or
when this can not be obtained use raw bone-dust, two
tons to the acre. These two fertilizers may be used to-
gether; one half the above-named quantities of each to
the acre. 2

Plow deep, again using the subsoil plow ; harrow finely
and evenly.

If the ground is poor, use about two barrels of bone-
phosphate, or seventy-five pounds of Peruvian guano, to
the acre in the rows, applied at the first hoeing.

Planting and Cultivating.—Asparagus may be set in
the fall, but it is far preferable to use the fall and winter
in preparing the land, carting manure, etc. ; thus having
everything ready for an early start in the spring, and the
earlier it is set out the better. There is a diversity of
opinion in regard to the most suitable distance at which
the plants should be set to obtain the greatest results.
Some advise setting fifteen to eighteen inches each way,
while others argue that better results will be obtained by
placing them six feet each way. My own observation
and experience convince me that these are opposite ex-
tremes. When the bed has been thoroughly prepared by
plowing, subsoiling, manuring, and harrowing, mark out
furrows five feet apart and about eight inches deep. Set
the plants eighteen inches apart, spreading the roots, cov-
ering and fastening them firmly, burying the crowns about
one inch. At the distance here given, five thousand five
hundred and eight will set an acre.

The crown and roots occupying about two inches, the
top of the crown (though to be covered only one inch at
first) will be about six inches below the level of the sur-
face when the furrows have become filled with earth. As
soon as the stalks or young shoots appear, cultivate and

ASPARAGUS. 43

hoe, and repeat during the summer, gradually filling the
furrows, so that by fall the whole surface may be level.
The object of this plan is to ultimately have the crowns
deep, which, on account of the weakness of the shoot the
first season, can not be accomplished at the time of plant-
ing. In the fall, plow a light furrow to the rows on both
sides, previously applying ¢ well-rotted manure or bone-dust
over the rows. In spring, harrow down level, cultivate
and hoe during the summer, never allowing ie weeds to
get astart. The following or second fall, pions away from
the rows on both sides ; : apply well-rotted manure, compost,
or bone-dust in the fax ows, and plow back, leaving the
earth in ridges over every row, stirring the ground be-
tween the rows, and always being careful not. to cut or
disturb the roots. In spring, harrow down nearly or quite
level. This season the strongest shoots may be cut; but
avoid cutting many, lest the roots be weakened and there-
by permanently injured. Cultivate during the summer as
before, manuring the following and every succeeding fall
as previously directed. After the third year the asparagus
may be cut indiscriminately. Every succeeding spring
the earth should be harrowed fine, and may be left slight-
ly raised above the rows, which has a tendency to bring
the shoots forward ear as than when grown on a level sur-
face. The stalks should be removed befure the seeds
ripen and fall, lest they germinate and grow, causing more
work, and if the plants are allowed to remain, they will
soon make the bed a mass of roots and damage the crop.
Coarse salt may be used after the third year at the rate
of five bushels to the acre, applied to the rows with the
manure, or three times that quantity, broadcast, in the fall.
Some argue that a heavier dressing will be beneficial,
and even assert that salt may be applied to this crop,
broadcast, one half an inch thick over the entire surface.
I would not, however, recommend using more than the
quantity first named, and it is very doubtful whether this

44 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

would be beneficial near the seacoast, where there 1s a
saline atmosphere, except so far as it may have a tend-
ency to destroy weeds.

Cutting and Bunching,.—The season of asparagus usual-
ly lasts until about the middle of June, but is governed
in a great measure by “early peas,” for as soon as these
become abundant in the markets, there is but little call
for asparagus.

There are knives made expressly for cutting asparagus,
but I have always found an ordinary long-bladed butch-
er’s-knife to answer every purpose. The person cutting
should be provided with a whetstone to keep the knife
sharp.

In the early part of the season, asparagus will require
cutting only about three times a week, but as the season
advances and the weather becomes warm, it will be neces-
sary to cut it every day, and sometimes, when very
warm, just after a rain, it must be cut twice in one day.

It should always be cut before the head bursts
as after that time it is useless for marketing. When cut-
ting lay the stalks in handfuls along the rows, afterwards
gathering them in baskets, but avoid letting them become
wilted after cutting. Wash before tying. Do not suffer
asparagus to remain in any other than an upright position
for any great length of time, and always pack it upright,
for if laid atlerwise the heads will turn upwards, thus
erooking the stalks or bunches,

In bunching, a frame is used, which is made of two
pieces of common board, nailed one against the other at
right angles; the one for the back six inches high and
twelve inches long, the bottom about ten inches wide and
twelve inches long.

In this bottom-piece are placed four light upright stakes
about six inches long, about four inches apart cach way,
in the form of a square, commencing two inches from the
back, This is the primitive and cheap style of buncher,

ASPARAGUS. 45

now partially superseded by machines constructed of metal,
much more couvenient than the one described. In either
case, across the bottom and between the stakes or metal
bands, a string must be laid, and on this lay the asparagus,
the heads against the back board, to keep them even until
a quantity sufficient for a bunch of the size desired has
been placed in. Draw the string tight and tie, cut tie
bottom or base of the bunch even, remove from the frame,
press the string down firm, place a light string above the
other near the top, and the bunch is ready for market,
The size of the bunch must be regulated by circumstances.
The stalks should be cut when about six inches above
ground, cutting four inches below, hence averaging ten
inches in length, and when trimmed will leave the bunch
about nine inches long.

An ordinary bunch is from four to five inches in diame-
ter at the center. Use bass-mat or other flat strings, to
avoid cutting the stalks,

Pack the bunches with fresh-cut grass, below and be-
tween, in boxes, keeping in an upright position.

Growing for Family Use.—When asparagus is grown
for family use only, in small quantities, the rows may be
not more than half as far apart as for field culture, in which
case the bel must be worked entirely by hand, using the
spading fork to loosen the soil.

Seed.— Asparagus produces seed when two years old.
When fully developed, the stalks are from five to six feet
in hight, with numerous branches, upon which are pro-
duced a profusion of bright scarlet berries, containing
from three to six seeds each. To save the seed, cut
the stalks as soon as the berries are ripe, which may be %
known by their changing color from green to scarlct, and
softening somewhat. The berries may be stripped by
hand, or thrashed upon a cloth or floor. After separating
from the stalks, place the berries in a barrel or tub, and
mash them with a wooden pounder, to break the outer

46 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,

shells, and then separate the pulp from the seed by
washing.

When placed in water the seeds will settle, while the
pulp and shells will readily pass away in pouring off the
water. Repeat the washing three or four times, and the
seed will be clean ; it should then be placed on boards to
dry, in the sun and wind. After the first day remove
from the sun, but expose to the air in a dry loft, spread
thin, for ten days or more.

The seed retains its vitality from two to three years.

Varieties,—Until quite recently the varieties of aspara-
gus have been mainly designated as “ Purple Top Giant ”
and ‘Green Top Giant,” but there has virtually been but
one kind—that growing in heavy soil producing purple,
and in loamy soil green, and in very sandy soils very
light green or nearly white tops or heads. ‘‘ Conover’s
Colossal” is undoubtedly a distinct and improved variety,
growing very strong and producing stalks of enormous
size. Other varieties are being introduced, and any real
improvement will be duly appreciated, but much must
depend upon the treatment bestuwed upon the plants, of
whatever variety.

BEAN.

Bush or Dwarf.—These varieties are available for ship-
ping in the green state, if packed in a manner to prevent
heating.

It has generally been conceded that beans, especially
the white or pea bean, will grow where the land is too
poor to produce anything else; but these, like all other
vegetables, will amply repay good treatment.

Soil and Preparation.—Select a piece of warm land,
rather light than otherwise; apply twenty two-horse Joads
of stable manure plowed in, or one thousand pounds of
bone-flour, or five hundred pounds of cuano, harrowed in.

BEAN. 47

They may be manured in the row with good compost
or well-rotted manure in liberai quantities, but broadcast
manuring is preferable. Plow and harrow thoroughly, to
make the soil fine and free from lumps.

Planting and Cultivating.—Mark out furrows about
four inches deep, two and a half feet apart for the smaller
and three feet for the strong-growing varieties, and plant
from three to six inches apart in the rows, according to
the variety. One to one and a half bushel will plant an
acre. The season of planting is after all danger of frost
is past, usually about the middle of May in this latitude,
and at intervals until August, which 1s the time for plant-
ing what are called ‘* Pickling Beans,” used for salting
down for winter.

These usually bring as good prices as any, except, per-
haps, the very earliest, and some seasons they are scarce
and high, For this purpose the Refugee 13 principally
used. In growing for seed, it is best to plant in the
first of the season, though they will ripen if sown early in
July, but the product wil not be so heavy. Work with
the cultivator and hoe, and at the final hoeing draw a
little earth to the plants, as beans, like peas, produce
longer and more abundantly by having the roots well
covered.

Preparing for Market.—When marketed green they
should be gathered as the beans begin to swell in the
pods, or a little more than half-grown, never washed, nor
yet allowed to become wilted, and shipped in crates or
barrels well ventilated, to prevent heating. They are
usually sold by the bushel.

Seed,—The manner of growing for seed is the same as
for marketing green.

When the pods are nearly dry, the plants must be
pulled by the roots, and laid in rows for one or two days,
and turned over cach day, when they may be thrashed,

48 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,.

selecting a dry time, and being careful to avoid breaking
with the flail. Heavy rains on them after they are pulled
are apt to injure the color and brightness of the seed,
hence it is essential to avoid this, if any way possible.
After thrashing, spread thin in a loft for two weeks or
more, when they may be passed through the fan-mill, and
stored in bags or barrels, until required for shipping.
They will be much improved in appearance by sifting
with No. 5 sieve and removing all imperfect grains by
hand.

They retain their vitality two years.

Varieties.—The varieties are numerous, and I will only
describe some of the leading sorts.

Early Valentine.—Plant compact and upright, rather
dwarf; pods short and round; seeds oblong, sometimes
irregular, color pale pink, variegated with bright pink and
occasionally white streaks or spots; eighteen hundred of
them will measure one quart. One of the most produc-
tive of the dwarfs, and perhaps the best carly variety
for using in the green state.

Early Mohawk.—Plant strong and vigorous, a strag-
gling grower; pods long and flattened; seeds large and
flattened, color dull purple, variegated with drab and
brown; fifteen hundred of them will measure a quart.
Not so early asthe Valentine, but more hardy and quite
productive.

Karly Chima,—Plant compact and upright, dwarf;
pods short and round, seeds short, thick, and round, white
with distinct red eye; seventeen hundred of them will
measure a quart. Avery fine bean to use in the dry state,
the cniy objection being the color of the eye, which
spoils the looks when cooked.

Eariy Newington Wonder,—Plant tali and vigorous,
sometimes inclined to run; pods small, seeds small, flat-

BEAN. AQ

tened, drab yellow, brown at the eye. Over three thou-
sand are required to measure one quart.

Refugee, or 1,060 to 1.—Late and very prolific; plant
very large and tall, inclined to run; podslong and round ;
seeds Jong and thin, nearly round, drab and purple
spotted, slightly variegated with dull white; eighteen
hundred wiil measure one quart. One of the very best
for using in the green state, extensively grown and sold
late for pickling.

White Kidney,.—Piant tall and vigorous; pods irregu-
lar; seeds white, long, and kidney-shaped ; twelve hun-
dred will measure one quart.

White Marrew.—Plant tall and branching, inclined to
run; pods rather flattened; seeds white, thick, nearly
round; fourteen hundred will measure one quart.

White Soup or Pea Bean,—Plant large, strageling,
and inclined to run; pods round; sceds small, white, ob-
long. Four thousand of them will measure one quart.
This and the two preceding varieties are used almost
wholly in the dry state, and the latter especially ripens
very unevenly, consequently the vines must be pulled
when the bulk of the crop is ripe, and laid on boards, or
hung on fences, etc., to allow the balance to ripen.

Pole or Running.—The varieties of the Pole-Bean
are quite numerous, but the well-known Lira is the only ~
variety grown to any extent for marketing in this section.
The other varieties are fully described in all the leading
works on gardening, and as the manner of cultivation is
very similar, I will only treat of this one principal vari-
ety. The soil should be hght, warm, and rich. Plow
and harrow thoroughly; mark out furrows five feet
apart; place a shovelful of well-rotted manure or com-
post every three feet in the rows, and thoroughly mix it

9
oO

50 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

with earth, raising a broad, flat hill. In the center of this,
with the aid of a crow-bar, place a cedar-pole ten feet.
long, firmly set, and about it plant six or eight beans,
placing the eye downward, and the whole barely under
ground. These should not be planted until settled warm
weather, the twentieth of May being considered full
early in this section. When the plants are up nicely, thin
to three or four to a hill, and as they advance in growth,
train them to the poles, bearing in mind that these, like
almost all vines except the hop, take a course against the
sun, or from right to left, and will not go any other way.

They may be forwarded somewhat by planting under
glass ina cold-trame about the first of May, and transplant-
ing when the second leaves have formed. When the form
of the beans can be plainly seen in the podsthey are ready
for market, and may be shipped the same as directed for
Bush Beans. If grown for seed cr for using in the dry
state, they must remain on the vines until the pods become
nearly dry; then pick, spread thin in a loft, and when
perfectly dry, place m bags; thrash carefully, and avoid
heavy blows whcreby the seed might be split and spoiled.
The seed is easily separated from the chaff by the wind,
and readily cleaned with a number three sieve. Should
there be any broken or damaged seeds, they must be re-
moved by hand. <A quart contains six hundred beans.
They retain their vitality two years.

The poles, if properly stored, may be used a great
many years.

The finer kinds of beets, or such as are used for culi-
nary purposes, can be profitably grown within one hun-
dred miles of our leading markets, or at twice that
distance where there is direct communication by water.
They will not produce as heavily as the coarser kinds, yet

a a eee eee — sss.

BEET. sy |

a bushel of beets can be grown quite as cheaply as a
bushel of potatoes, and will yield fourfold, averaging
one year with another, and they always command a fair
price during the fall and winter and early spring months.
_ Sometimes the prices rule very high, and in case of low
prices they can be fed out or sold for that purpose to ad-
vantage. It is astonishing how little attention is paid to
the cultivation of beets for feeding by the farmers of this
country when they can be raised with so little trouble,
and the larger varieties yield so enormously. They are
very nutritious and healthful for stock, coming in use as
they do in the absence of all green or laxative food,
which is quite as essential for stock, especially cattle, as
for mankind,

Soil and Preparatien.—The soil best adapted to beets
is a deep, rich, sandy loam. The land should be plowed
in the fall if possible, and in the spring have a dressing
of at least twenty two-horse loads of stable-manure to
the acre, which should be plowed in, or one thousand
pounds of bone-fiour, or five hundred pounds of guano,
harrowed in. The.ground should be deeply plowed,
finely harrowed and back-harrowed, and if not then free
from lumps, be raked by hand.

Sewing and Cultivating.—The land being prepared,
stretch the line, and mark with the fifteen-inch marker
rows about an inch and a half deep. Sow the seed at the
rate of four pounds to the acre for main crop, or six
pounds when sown very carly, as. the spring frosts may
destroy a part of the first sown, and cover by raking
lengthwise with the rows. For early, sow almost as soon
as the ground can be worked, and from then until the
first of June. I have known them to do well sown as
late as July, but consider the first part of May the best
time to put in the main crop.

When the plants are fairly up, use the push-hoe close

52 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

to the rows, after which thin by hand to four inches for
early, or six inches for late crop.

Those pulled out from the very early crops are sold by
gardeners in market as ‘“ beet-grcens,” and usually bring
more than enough to pay the labor of thinning. After
thinning, work deeply with a pronged hoe, and but little
more labor will be required, and this only on late crops,
which may need a further push-hoeing, and possibly some
hand-weeding again, but a narrow push-hoc must be used,
and care taken to avoid cutting the growing root, which
would cause it to burst or crack open, and thus be spoiled.
To grow for feeding stock, the same preparation of soil is
essential. Mark out rows thirty inches apart; sow evenly,
and thin to ten inches in the row; this is, of course, pre-
suming that the large varieties will be grown, they being
the most profitable for such purposes. Here the ground
may be worked with a cultivator, and the thinning done
in a great measure by the hoe. It will be advantageous
to run the push-hoe along each side of the row before the
plants are large enough to admit the use of the cultiva-
tor, and thus destroy the weedsin the germ. Some re-
commend the plan of furrowing out rows three feet apart,
filling with rotted manure, and sowing on a ridge formed
by covering the manure deeply with earth, raking the
top before sowing. This plan answers where the land has
been but shallow worked, but where the condition of the
soil will admit of deep plowing, or moderately so, the
system of broadcast manuring and sowing on a level sur-
face will be found the best.

Preparing for Market.—Early-sown beets are usually
pulled when about two inches in diameter. All super-
fluous leaves and fibrous roots are cut away; the bulbs or
roots are carefully washed singly with a soft brush, and
tied in flat bunches of five to seven. The main crop is
usually harvested about the middle of October, some-
times later, but they must not be allowed to become

BEET, 53

frosted, as in that case they would be very liable to rot.
Twist the tops off by hand, and no further preparation is
necessary to fit them for market, as beets sold in bulk are
never washed. They may be marketed in bulk at any
time during the summer when the leaves begin to
dry away, and from thence until the following May.
Stored beets, especially towards spring, will start to
grow, hence, when they are then marketed, the sprouts
must be removed, and at the same stroke of the hand
remove all fibrous roots, which will add much to their
appearance.

Gathering and Storing.—This process is the same
whether intended for market or for seed, except, in the
latter case, instead of wringing off the tops they must be
eut with a knife, being careful to avoid destroying the
heart or center germ, as it is this which produces the main
stalk and best seed. Particular care should also be exer-
cised lest they become in the least frosted, for they must
be kept quite late in spring, before setting them out.
Whether intended for market or for seed, select a dry
day, pull the beets, laying them in rows, and cut or wring
off the tops, as the case may require.

Handle carefully, and put them away as directed in the
chapter on “Storing for Winter,” except such as may be
required for fall sales, which may be placed in heaps on
the surface of the ground, and temporarily covered with
leaves and earth.

Seed.—Great pains should be taken in selecting to re-
serve only such as possess the peculiar marks which dis-
tinguish the variety. The foliage of beets will assist in a
great measure to make selections, hence it is well to go
over the bed, and remove all that show any signs of im-
purity, before the main crop is pulled. To assist in mak-
ing this selection, I have described the foliage of the lead-
ing varieties. Having pulled and topped the roots as
above directed, make the selection for seed before they are

54 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED*GROWING.

removed from the ground, as this is the best and most
convenient time. Handle carefully and avoid bruising.

The pitting, covering, etc., are the same as for marketing.
The roots for seed-raising should be set out as soon as all
danger of heavy frost is past, usually about the first of
May. Beets, to produce prime seed abundantly, require
rich land, and that which has been manured for a number
of years is preferable to highly manuring the season of
planting. When the ground is not already rich, apply
manure or fertilizers as directed in preparing for the crop
of roots. Plow and harrow thoroughly ; mark out fur-
rows three feet apart, and set the roots one and a half to
two feet apart in the rows, covering the whole to the
crown. The round varieties can be set by making a hole
with a dibble at the bottom of the furrow, into which the
tap-root (or tail, as it is erroneously termed) must be
placed, and the earth pressed to it by means of the dibble.
The long varieties require the use of a crowbar for open-
ing a hole, the dibble being used to fasten the earth about
the root. Care must be exercised in handling not to
break off or destroy the young sprouts, which will have
formed while the roots have been stored. It is a good
plan to plant every fifth row with potatoes, over which to
walk when gathering the seed, which requires cutting two
or three times, and by this method two rows can be
reached from either side, and cut with greater ease, with
less loss from stripping out, than when grown in a solid
body. Keep free from weeds until the plants have at-
tained a hight of about two feet, when the ridging plow
may be used and the earth drawn to the roots with a hoe.
After this, in consequence of the plants shading the
ground, there will be but little chance for the weeds to
grow, and the earth being over the roots, and against the
stalks, is a great protection against breaking down by
wind or storm.

Where but a few roots are set out to obtain seed for

BEET. 55

private use, they may be placed three feet apart each way,
and the growing stalks supported by stakes. What is
generally known as the seed, is a combination of from
three to five irregular, grains of a fibrous or woody cha-
racter, each containing one seed proper; hence, what is
termed one seed is in reality capable of producing from
three to five plants.

The seed-bearing plant, when fully developed, is about
four feet in hight, and throws out numerous branches
from the base to the top of the main stalk, and along
these branches, the entire length, the seeds are produced,
and are quite firmly attached ; the larger seeds grow at
the base, and they gradually become smaller to the tips.
Pinching the tips of these shoots when the seed is form-
ing has a tendency to increase its size toward the point,
and make the whole more uniform. When about two
thirds of the seed on the stalk have become brown and par-
tially dry, all such stalks should be cut, and it is some-
times necessary to cut three different times. When the
stalks have been cut two or three days, the seeds will
thrash off quite readily, but if allowed to remain until the
stalks become dry, these will. break up and mix with the
seed, causing much inconvenience in cleaning; hence, it is
important, while giving the seed a chance to develop,
notto allow.the stalks to become over-ripe, nor to be too
long exposed after cutting. The sced is always ripe be-
fore the stalks are dry. Small lots may be stripped by
hand, but a quantity can best be removed by thrashing
with = flail, When the seeds are separated from the
stalks, they should be spread thinly, in a loft, for a week
or more, after which they may be run through the fan-
mill, and stored in barrels, until wanted for packing, when
they should again pass through the fan-mill and be
finished with No. 10 sieve, to remove the sand or dust,
picking out what sticks there may be, by hand. Beet
seed retains its vitality seven years.

56 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

VARIETTES.

Early Dark Blood Egypiian.—A new variety, of great
value for bunching; extra early, very dark blood, flat
at the top and bottom, much resembling in shape the white
flat turnip; small tap-root, and short, very dark leaves.

Bassane,—-Extra early; outside delicate pink; flesh
pale red, sometimes nearly white, and pink mottled and
veined; leaves pale red, and red and green mixed, some-
times entirely pale green, but thisshows white flesh, and
should be discarded in making selections for seed. |

Early Turnip-roeted.—aA cross between the Bassano
and the Turnip Blood, favoring the latter, though rather
earlier, but not so early as the former, which, however, it
entircly supersedes when it comes to market, which is
perhaps one week later; usually rather dark red, some-
times with a perceptible paleness, more noticeable inter-
nally than externally, rather flattened at the top, and some-
what so at the root; prime for early bunching and good
for winter use; leaves dark red, occasionally streaked or
mottled with green. |

Turnip-reoted Blood,—A little later than the preced-
ing, of nearly the same shape, more tapering at the root;
very dark blood-red; leaves very dark red; the very
best round beet for winter use or main crop. *

Long Smooth Bleod.—Long and smooth, tapering root ;
leaves, skin, and flesh all very dark red; grows about one
half above ground ; the very best winter beet for market.

Half Long or Pine-Apple.—Evidently a cross between
the Long Smooth and Turnip Blood; rather rounded at
the top and tapering to the root; leaves, skin, and flesh
very dark blood-red.

The foregoing are the leading market varieties, and
below are mentioned the best of the large kinds, such as
are usually grown for feeding stock.

DBROCCOLI—CABBAGES. on

White Sugar,—Skin and flesh white; leaves pale green;
long irregular thick root, growing much out of ground.

Yellow Sugar.—Same as the preceding, except as to
color.

Red Mangel-wurzel.—Skin, flesh, and leaves pale red ;
long, moderately even in form, quite thick at the root, and
grows much above ground.

Yellow Mangel-wurzel.—Same as the above except as
to color, and generally more irregularly formed.

BROCCOLI.

So closely allied to cauliflower that I prefer to pass it by,
and merely make mention here of the leading varieties—
namely: White Cape, Purple Cape, and Early Walcheren.
Culture the same as cauliflower.

CABBAGES.

This with market-gardeners is an important crop, and
with those about New York, the principal one, as by their
method of culture they bring the crop very early into
market, thus commanding good prices, and land is cleared
off in time to admit of a second crop the same. season.
The better to be understood by my readers, and to do
greater justice to the subject, I will divide it into two
parts.

Earity CaABpBaGks.

Soil and Preparation.—The soil best adapted for early
cabbages is a good, strong, retentive loam, and that with
a fair proportion of sand can be used to good advantage,
provided the subsoil is not too gravelly or porous; still it
is not advisable to use very light soil, nor yet that which
is very heavy or clayey, and which has a tendency to pack

3%

58 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

or bake. The land should be plowed and harrowed in the
fall, and if not in a very high state of fertility, a liberal
dressing of manure or coarse bone may be turned under at
that time to good advantage.

Plow again in the spring, turning under thirty two-horse
loads of stable manure to the acre for wide planting, when
more is to be applied directly to the plant, to fifty or sixty
loads for close croppmg. In theabsence of stable-manure,
apply to the acre one ton of coarse bone in the fall, and
one tone of bone-flour or one half a ton of guano, in the
spring, harrowed in, or where only enough manure can be
had for applying direct to the plants in wide planting, use
one half the quantity of bone and guano, broadcast, as
above directed. I much prefer the plan of heavy manuring
and close planting for this crop. For this purpose mark
rows thirty inches apart (use the fifteen-inch marker and
plant on every other mark), and set the plants sixteen
inches in the rows, which will require about thirteen thou-
sand plants to the acre. When grown wide, the land
should be lightly furrowed out three feet each way, a half
shovelful of well-rotted manure or compost placed where
the furrows cross, and thoroughly mixed with the soil by
means of a hoe, and the surface gently pressed. Five
thousand plants will set an acre planted in this way. By
either method, prepare the ground immediately preceding
the planting, by a thorough plowing and harrowing,
and smooth the surface with the back of the harrow.

Sowing Seed and Growing the Plants, — Cabbage
seed germinates quite readily, and there is but little art
in sowing it; still, painstaking in preparing the soil,
covering, cte., thus giving each seed a chance, will
insure a greater number of plants from a given
quantity of seed, than if carelessly sown. To get
the crop off carly, and to grow early cabbages in
perfection, the seed should be sown in the fall, and the
plants wintered over, as directed in the chapter on cold-

CABBAGES. 59

frames. This sowing requires some judgment, as it is
quite important to have the plants of good size, the better
to withstand the winter, and yet they must not be over-
large, lest, when planted out in the spring, many of them
will run to seed, instead of producing heads.

About New York the plants are mostly pricked out in
the cold-frames by or before the twentieth of Novem-
ber. When cold-frames are not used, plants may be had
quite early, by sowing the seed in a hot-bed made as de-
scribed in the chapter on hot-beds, and using about three
inches of earth over the manure.

But very little heat is required to germinate cabbage seed,
and if the bed is very hot, the plants will grow up slim
and spindly, hence great pains must be taken to temper
the bed before sowing, and give an abundance of air while
the plants are growing, whenever the weather will admit
of it. The work of airing can not be regulated by any
fixed rule, as hot-beds are made at a season of repeated and
often sudden changes, and hence they require almost con-
stant attention. A thermometer set in the center of a bed
should range from fifty to sixty degrees for cabbage-
plants. Here we generally sow in hot-beds about the first
of March, which gives us plants about the tenth of April;
and I would here remark, that it is much better to sow the
seed say six weeks or more in advance of the anticipated
time of transplanting, and grow them slowly and strong,
than to defer sowing until late, and then have to force them
along, thus making them weak and tender, and unable to
endure the sudden changes of the spring weather. It is
well to remove the sashes entirely from the bed a few
days before transplanting, leaving the plants exposed
night and day (except in case of very severe cold or heavy
storm, when they may be temporarily replaced), and thus
harden them oi, that the change may not be too great.
The surface should be raked level, and the seed sprinkled
even and thin, broadcast—two ounces being sufficient for

69 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

a four-sash frame, and will produce about six thousand
plants—covering lightly with sifted soil, gently pressing
with a shovel, and sprinkling with lukewarm water
at evening. A good wetting when they are to be
pulled for transplanting will soften the ground, and cause
the earth to adhere to the roots, and be a general benefit
to the plants.

Planting and Cultivating.—I have already stated the
plants should be set sixteen inches apart in the rows, but
2 variation of an inch or two either way, will not make
any material difference. When desirable to have them
exact, use a marked pole, as directed in the chapter on
transplanting. Whether wintered in a cold-frame or
grown in hot-beds, the plants should be set out as early
in the spring as circumstances will admit of, and those
from the cold-frame may be transplanted just as soon as
the ground can be worked, as they will not be injured by
possible subsequent severe weather, provided they are set
deep and the roots firmly fastened. These are two very
important points, more fully explained in the chapter on
transplanting, and alike applicable to either cold-frame or
hot-bed plants. The plants will soon take root, when the
harrow-cultivator may be run between the rows, and the
ground about the plants deeply loosened and made fine,
being careful, of course, not to disturb the roots. Just
before they begin to form heads, the large-toothed culti-
vator should pass between the rows, and the hoe again
used as before, which is ordinarily all the attention they
will require.

Cutting and Marketing.—As a gencral rule, as is well
known, a “ cabbage head ” should be solid to be marketable,
or in fact to be eatable, but about New York those who are
fortunate enough to have it well advanced very early, not
unfrequently cut a few loads of such asare only an apology
for “heads,” which bring large prices. When the maim

CABBAGES. 61

crop comes in, it is important that the heads should he fully
grown and solid. Cabbages should always, if possible, be
cut very early in the morning, before the sun can wilt
the leaves, as they then come to market looking fresh
and plump. Unlike late cabbages, the. early kinds should
be cut with several leaves about the head, which gives
them a much larger and better appearance. When neara
market the heads are loaded in bulk, snugly and compact-
ly, into wagons, and either sold from the wagon to retailers
or left with a commission dealer for the same purpose.
They can be shipped in crates or barrels, well ventilated,
but must not be long packed, as they are very liable to
heat.

Seed.— Growing the seed of early cabbages is attended
with serious difficulties, the chief of which is to produce
the heads at a season entirely adverse to their nature.

I sow three separate times, and as near as may ke the
first, tenth, and twentieth of June, in the same manner as
directed for growing late cabbage plants, except owing to
the season I choose a moist piece of ground, and in the
absence of rain resort to watering. every evening until
the plants are up, and occasionally thereafter. When the
plants are large enough to handle, they may be set out,
but at this season of the year transplanting is not always
practicable, hence my reason for making three different
sowings, in hopes that we may be favored with rain at
such time as one lot or the other will be in condition to
set out. <A piece of land on which has been grown peas,
spinach, or other early-maturing crop is used, being
plowed, harrowed, and marked out all ready for such time
as the rain may come. The land is well manured, broad-
cast, for the first crop in anticipation of the second, hence
no further manuring is necessary, and in fact I have found
that early cabbages grown late, in over-rich ground, are
apt to be tender, and do not preserve so well over winter
as when less stimulated. Whenever the weather will per-

62 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

mit, the plants are set out, in the same manner as directed
for spring planting, and worked the same way.

I always wish to get at least a part of the early-sown
plants set out, as they get fully headed, and give a chance
for a very choice. selection for stock seed, while the
second or last sown, in consequence of not being quite so
hard-headed, generally winter the best, but it requires a
more experienced eye to select from those half-headed than
from such as are fully developed.

The selections must be made according to the color, size,
shape, and general characteristics of the variety. About
the first of November another plot of ground is taken—
one which has just been cleared of a crop and was well
manured in the spring, as I find that cabbage seed does
better on such than on freshly-manured land. This is deep-
ly plowed, harrowed, and quite deep furrows marked out,
four feet apart. The choice cabbages from the bed are
placed in these furrows, eighteen inches apart, and laid
parallel with the furrows, at an angle of forty-five degrees,
always, if possible, with the head to the north, that the
stalk, which is the most tender part, may be the better pro-
tected. The earth is drawn in abundantly, and pressed
over the root and stalk, and partially over the leaves, which
are gathered about and over the head.

Nothing more is required until the approach of severe
weather, when with plow and hoe the earth must be
drawn over the whole, abundantly over the stalk, and
firmly pressed, and sufficiently over the head to protect it
from «alternate freezing and thawing rather than from the
frost. As early in the spring asthe ground can be worked,
the soit must be removed from the heads by plowing
away, and carefully using the hoe; and the outer leaves of
the head proper be separated, to allow the heart or center
germ or shoot to come through, being very careful not to
injure the germ, as this is the all-important part in pro-
ducing seed. Cultivate and hoe, and when the plants are

iM

CABBAGES., 63

eighteen to twenty-four inches high, throw the earth to
them for support; or what is better still, tie to stakes, but
avoid bunching the branches; a very convenient plan is
to place stakes twelve feet apart along every row, and
from one to the other firmly stretch tarred marline or
spun yarn, to which the stalks may be attached by bass-
mat or other flat strings. This marline may be preserved
and used many seasons.

Another plan which I have tried successfully is to mark
out deep furrows, four feét apart, running north and south,
in which a light dressing of very rotten manure is placed,
and with a hoe thoroughly mixed with the soil at the bot-
tom of the furrow, and the plants fromthe second or third
sowing, set therein, eighteen inches apart; in the fall all
impure heads taken out, the remainder, without being
pulled, bent over and treated in all further respects the
same as by the plan above described.

Another plan, and the one best adapted for preserving
solid heads, is to put them away as hereinafter described
for “late cabbage,” or to heel them in thick in a cold-
frame, cover with shutters, and set thera out and cultivate
the same as “late cabbage” for seed, under which head I
also give directions for harvesting and cleaning the seed,
which operation is the same with early and late.

Varieties.—The varieties of early cabbage are numer-
ous, but there are very few in general cultivation, and
I will only notice such as are in favor with market-gar-
deners.

Early Jersey Wakefield.—On account of the attention
this variety is now attracting, a brief history of it may not
be amiss here. It was first grown in this country by my
uncle, Francis Brill, then of Jersey City, N. J., and by
him received from England under the name it still bears,
about thirty years ago, and proved to be the best early
cabbage of that time, as if is still there, and wherever

64 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

tried in the vicinity of New York City, and is becoming
more popular every year. It was adopted by my uncle, my
father, and the few other gardeners about Jersey City at
that time, as the standard sort, and from it they grew
seed from year to year.

In the course of time, wishing to renew the stock, they
sent to Europe direct, as wel as through the seedsmen of
New York, fora fresh supply of seed of the Wakefield,
but what they received then and repeatedly since, under
that name, was not the genuine article. In consequence
of its having been so long grown from the one stock, it is
now more irregular in form than originally, rather im-
proved in size, full as early as ever, and now as then the
favorite with all Jersey gardeners, as well as those of Long
Island and elsewhere about New York, and it is gaining
friends wherever it is introduced.

Head large, conical, sometimes rather rounded or flat-
tened; leaves sea-green; stalk short. In selecting for
seed, take only such as have pointed heads of good size,
compact leaves, and short stalks.

Early York.—Head of medium size, roundish ovoid,
close, and well formed, of a deep green color; but few
loose leaves, comparatively smooth on the surface; short
stalks.

Large Early York.—Very much the same as the
“Karly York,” except being larger; same shape; thicker
head.

Early Ox-Heart.—Head large, conical; leaves com-
pact, light green; stalk short.

Early Flat Dutch.—A cross between the Ox-Heart
and Large Flat Dutch. Heads large, round, very solid;
leaves sea-green, rather spreading ; stalk remarkably short.
A fine second early variety. Plants usually grown in
hot-beds. If kept in cold-frames over winter are very
liable to run to seed, unless they are small and bedded late.

CABBAGES. 65

Early Winningstadt,—Second early. Heads large, com-

pact, very pointed; smooth, bright, glossy green leaves ;
stalk rather short.

LatTE CABBAGES.

They are not generally grown by market-gardeners in the
immediate vicinity of New York, as it would not pay
them near so well as the early, and, moreover, a second
crop could not be taken from the ground the same year.
They are, however, grown extensively on Long Island,
partly within carting distance of New York, and a con-
siderable quantity is sent in from different places by rail-
road and vessels.

The soil and climate of Long Island seem to suit them,
and some of the finest cabbages I ever saw were grown
in this section.

In any farming district where late cabbages will suc-
ceed well, they are worthy the attention of farmers; for
it not unfrequently happens that in the city markets dur-
ing the fall and winter months they bring very high
prices, and almost always sell high enough to insure
profit to the grower ; but in case of a glut, and consequent
low prices, they can be used for feeding stock, and are
very valuable for that purpose.

Soil and Preparation.—The remarks on soé/ in refer-
ence to early cabbage are equally applicable to the late
varieties. The preparation must, however, necessarily
be quite different, as the late kinds would not pay for
such liberal quantities of manure as are bestowed upon
the early crop, nor yet do they require it. Late cabbages
are grown as a second crop, following early potatoes,
peas, spinach, ete., where such things are grown for
market, and succeed admirably on inverted clover-sward.
On clover-sward or other good land, a dressing of twenty
two-horse loads of good stable-manure to the acre, plowed

66 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

in, one thousand pounds of bone-flour, or six hundred
pounds of guano, harrowed in, will bring a good crop ; but
in the case of stable-manure, if more is at hand, it can be
used to advantage, and will be a great benefit to the suc-
ceeding crop. Land heavily manured for the first crop
will require but little more to bring this one.

A dressing of ashes will also be beneficial, and will
have a tendency to destroy the grubs. After plowing,
the ground should be well harrowed, smoothed with the
back of the harrow, and rows marked out three feet
apart. For wide planting, the ground may be furrowed
out, and manured in the angles as advised for early cab-
bages. This planting has to be done in midsummer—
usually the first part of July—and it is quite necessary to
have the ground all marked out and ready for rainy
weather, which at this season is apt to be of short dura-
tion, and must be taken advantage of.

Sowing Seed and Growing the Plants.—The seed
should be sown the first part of May. © It is advisable to
sow on the fifth and fifteenth for the main crop, using
plenty of seed each time to be sure of a full supply of
plants, allowing one ounce of seed for three thousand
plants, and if there is any surplus, there is generally a
demand for them, or at least enough can be sold to pay
the expense of raising. The first sown, if planted early
in July, will be headed in the fall, and the later ones
answer for winter use, as they keep much better than very
hard heads. The seed may be sown broadcast, but I pre-
fer to mark rows ten inches apart, and an inch and a half
deep, on a piece of moderately rich light soil, well pre-
pared, in which the seed is deposited rather thinly, and
covered by raking in. As soon as the young plants begin
to break the soil, sprinkle the bed with air-slaked shell
lime, which is to be repeated again when they are nicely
up, to prevent the ravages of an insect generally known
as the cabbage flea. This must not be neglected, or the

CABBAGES. 67

entire crop may be speedily destroyed, as they are very
destructive, and at times very numerous at this season of
the year. (See chapter on Insects.)

Planting and Cultivating.—The directions given under
this head in the article on Early Cabbages apply also to
these, except the distance.

The rows being already marked three feet apart, the
plants should be set two feet in the rows, requiring seven
thousand two hundred and sixty to an acre; or at the
angles where the manure has been placed and prepared,
requiring nearly five thousand plants for the same
amount of land. The planting, as I have before stated,
should be done in wet weather; but it frequently happens
that the rains at this season are not sufficient to thor-
oughly wet the earth, hence we have to resort to “ pud-
dling,” which is described in the chapter on transplanting.
They should be set out in July, though if in very rich
soil, a good proportion will head if set so late as the first
of August.

It often happens there is a scarcity of cabbages in
market between the seasons for late and early, and those
who are far-seeing enough to have an intermediate crop, do
well by it. The Large Flat Dutch is a good variety for
this purpose, and may be sown at any time after the
ground opens in the spring, and if a person should sow
three different times, for instance, the first, tenth, and
twentieth of April, and from each sowing plant a bed,
there would be a chance to make a good hit on at least
one lot, and do well on all, and the plants would be ready
at a time when a piece of growing clover could be
turned under, and a good crop grown with little or no
manure. This variety is also used for sowing in hot-
beds, and occasionally for keeping over winter in cold-
frames, and by planting early succeeds the early varieties
when the market is not glutted, and sometimes sells at
very high prices.

68 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

The cultivation of this variety is the same in these
cases as when grown for winter.

Cutting and Marketing.—The large or late kinds of
cabbage should always be solid, and their fitness for
market may readily be determined by pressing the hand
on each head.

They should be cut without any superfluous leaves
when sent to a city market, but in villages where people
have room for the purpose, most persons prefer to buy
them in quantity with the roots and leaves attached, that
they may be buried and taken out as occasion may re-
quire. I might here add that it is customary for garden-
ers to allow dealers four heads extra to every one hun-
dred, and they in turn allow thirteen to the dozen.

This rule applies generally to all vegetables growing
above ground, but not as a rule to roots which grow
Lelow.

Storing for Winter,—Cabbages for using or marketing
in winter may be put away the same as when intended
for seed, described hereafter, but a much easier and quite
as good a plan, where the head only is to be preserved, is
to make a double row, setting the heads close together on
the ground, roots upward, throwing one or two furrows
to them on each side, lightly covering and ridging with a
spade.

Seed.—Late varieties of cabbage, for seed, are grown
in their regular season, in the same manner as for market,
and as a general rule the crop is more certain than with
the early kinds; hence, the stock of seed is generally
abundant, and prices are not so high. It is a good idea
to have late cabbages planted early, to make a choice
selection for stock seed; but for the main crop, that which
is planted about the twentieth of July, in moderately rich
soil, will keep the best, and be sufficiently advanced to
make a pure selection. The selections must be made ac-
cording to the characteristics of the variety, the same as

CABBAGES. 69

with the early kinds. It may happen that in cutting cab-
bages, either early or late, there may be some extra choice
heads from which one would desire to grow seed, but
from the earliness of the season and the ripeness of the
heads it could not be done in the usual form, as they
would not keep until spring. To accomplish this, when
the said heads are cut, make a mark with the knife across
the top of the stump, and afterwards dig all such stumps
and heel them in until fall, when they may be bedded the
same as heads. This is known as “stump seed,” and
while no perceptible difference may be seen in the crop
grown from it one year only, yet experience has proven
that in time it will deteriorate, and the only way to pro-
duce prime cabbage-seed is to grow it directly from the
head. I never put the heads away where the seed is to
grow, as with early cabbage, but prefer to lay them away
in a bed.

The latter part of November choose a dry piece of
ground running north and south; run a double furrow,
throwing up a ridge a foot and a half high. On the east
side of the ridge, commencing on the south end, lay the
cabbages in a single row, we'l up to the top of the ridge,
and packed close together. While one man is laying
them in, another must come behind spading the earth
over the roots and stalks, firmly treading it down, while
still another follows, throwing more dirt over the roots,
pressing it firmly with the foot, fillme well under the
heads with fine soil, covering the root and stalk about six
inches, and leaving the earth in the form of a ridge, as in
the beginning. This operation is continued until seven
rows are in, each row a trifle lower than the preceding -
one, so that when the whole is complete there may be
descent enough to carry off the water. The earth is
firmly pressed against the back of the first row, fine soil
put in from each side between the rows, sufficient to make
the surface even, leaving the tops of the heads exposed.

70 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

The main point is to protect the stalk at junction with
the head, as it is here the most sensitive to cold, and must
be well covered.

The bed is then banked up, back, front, and ends, to a
depth of two feet, or more, and so left until cold weather,

| when it must be covered with coarse hay, straw, stalks, or
brush, lightly, not as a protection against freezing, but to
prevent alternate freezing and thawing. As soon as the
ground can be worked in the spring the cabbages must
be set out, the heads opened, and in all other ways
managed as directed for early cabbages, except that they
will not require space and earth for ridging, as those
planted in the fall. The rows may be only three feet apart,
but it is well to give plenty of room, to avoid the intertwin-
ing of the branches, and prevent loss of seed, by stripping
out in harvesting.

In any event avoid exposing the stalks to the sun, by
covering them, as well as the roots, with earth. When
the seed is ripe, which may be known by the pods turn-
ing yellow, and eventually becoming dry, the stalks must
be cut off and laid on the ground for a day or two to dry.
It is best to gather it when the pods are yellow, for if
allowed to remain until they are dry, the seeds lose color
and shrivel up. It will be necessary to make three cut-
tings to secure a crop in prime order. After the stalks
have lai long enough to cause the sced to shell readily
from the pods, they can be removed on cloths, or if'a large
quantity is to be handled use a high-box wagon, covering
the sides and bottom with cloths to prevent loss. Carry
it to the thrashing floor. But little labor will be required
to thrash it out; in fact, the most will shell in the wagon
while loading, and care must here be exercised or much
may be lost.

When thrashed, remove the stalks, run through the fan-
mill, and lay the seed away on cloths, in a loft, for a
fortnight, to dry, after which it may again be passed

CABBAGES. 71

through the fan-mill, and finally cleaned with a No. 18
sieve.

Cabbage seed retains its vitality four years.

Varieties.—As with the early, so with the late cabbage,
the varieties are numerous, and I will only describe such
as are generally cultivated.

Large Flat Dutch,—Heads large, very broad, and fiat,
not very thick in proportion; color light green or nearly
white at maturity; outer leaves whitish green, not
numerous, but somewhat spreading in rich ground; stalk
short. A sub-variety of this, known as the “ Premium
Flat Dutch,” has heads more oval at the top, and leaves
of dark green. The former is preferred by gardeners.

American Drumhead.—Heads very large, rounding at
the top, very thick, tinged above with purple; leaves
dark green, profuse and spreading; stalk rather long.
Considered the best variety to grow for feeding stock.

Bergen Drumhead,—Heads large, compact, and round-
ing at the top; leaves rather small, compact, and, as well
as the head, distinctly marked with purple; stalk short.
A valuable variety for keeping over winter.

Green Curled Savoy.—Head small, yellowish green,
very compact and solid, nearly round, a little pointed at
the top; leaves small, few, and compact, dark green;
stalk short. May be planted closer than the Drumheads
or Flat Dutch.

Drumhead Savey.—Similar to the above in most re-
spects ; head large, and flattened at the top; leaves rather
more spreading. The Savoys are the best keepers and de-
cidedly the finest flavored of all cabbages, not as exten-
sively grown as their good qualities warrant, but gain-
ing popularity every year.

Red Dutch,.— Head medium size, round, extremely
solid ; leaves few, and, like the head, in color very dark
red or purple; stalk moderately short. Used for pickling,

vee FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,

and for this purpose usually in fair demand, and prime
heads always command good prices.

Turnip-rooted or Kohl-Rabi.—This is intermediate
between the cabbage and turnip, and though classed with
the former has more the appearance of the latter. The
stalk just above the ground swells out, forming a round
fleshy bulb, from which the leaves start separately, and
the whole has much the appearance of a Ruta-Baga turnip.
Tt can be sown in cold-frames as soon as the cabbage
plants are removed, and transplanted to the open ground
when large enough to handle, about eighteen inches apart
each way. For late crop they are sown in June, and
transplanted as above, or may be sown in rows and
thinned out, which is preferable to transplanting in hot
weather. In either case they require rich soil, and to. be
well worked. In marketing, the root and superfluous
leaves are cut away, and three or four bulbs tied in a flat
bunch.

The seed is obtained by preserving the bulbs and roots
over winter in a cellar or pit, and transplanting in the
spring, cultivating the same as directed for Ruta-Baga.

CAULIFLOWER.

Where this vegetable does well, there is certainly no
crop which will pay a larger profit. For the past two
years the farmers of the east end of Long Island, espe-
cially about the village of Mattituck, have planted largely
of cauliflower, being incited by the successful experiments
of some who have removed here from the west end, who
were formerly engaged in growing vegetables for New
York markets. The past season the crop has succeeded
admirably, and large profits have been realized by growers
in this vicinity, and this by men-many of whom are inex- —
perienced in the cultivation of this or any other vegetable
for market, and moreover the most of it was grown at the

CAULIFLOWER. sa

worst possible season of the year. Asa generalrule cau-
liflowers do not succeed well on old land, and much of
the land hereabouts is new, and but very little of it in-
deed has ever been used for cabbages or anything of this
nature. But, beyond a doubt, it is the humid, saline at-
mosphere of this section, which makes the cultivation of
this vegetable a success. Protracted drouths are here al-
most unknown, and even during the temporary absence of
rain in the summer months, the air does not seem so dry
and withering, so to speak, as in sections more remote
from the ocean, the Sound, and the great salt-water bays
by which we are surrounded.

Soil and Preparation.—Cauliflowers require a deep,
strong, and rich soil to be grown in perfection, and that
which has been recently br — up, or at least upon which
no cabbages, turnips, nor anything of this nature has been
grown, or has been for some time seeded down, is prefer-
able to land long tilled. The soil should be prepared and
the crop cultivated as directed for early cabbages. The
early dwarf varieties may be set thirty by eighteen inches, ~
but the leading growers here seem to think they will not
blight so readily when planted wide, and recommend set-
ting the early sorts three feet and the late ones four feet
apart each way. They, however, do not sow until spring,
and if the plants are kept over in cold-frames, and trans-
planted early, as they should be, the dwarf kinds can be
set cut at the first-named distance. The great drawback
to the successful cultivation of this vegetable in most
parts of our country, is undoubtedly the heat and drouth
of our summers, hence it is best to plant very early to get
ahead of the heat, or otherwise at such time as will bring
the heading after the intense heat is past. To accomplish
the first, sow in the fall and keep the plants over winter
as ROCE in the chapter on cold-frames, and treat after-
wards the same as directed for early cabbage. The seed
of the late varieties may not be sown until near the first

a

74 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

of June, then in the manner directed for sowing seed of
late cabbages, and the after-cultivation is similar to that for
this crop. Extra manuring will, however, be very beneficial.
When the cold-frame is not at command sow in early hot-
bed, the same as directed for early cabbages, and endea-
vor to have the plants grown and hardened by the time
the ground is fit to work, and get them out as early as
practicable.

Plants may also be grown by sowing in the open air, as
soon as the ground can be worked; but in the latter case,
the heads will be forming at midsummer, and there are
few sections where they will do well at this season of the
year.

Late cauliflowers which have not perfected their heads,
at the approach of frost may be taken up and thickly
planted in a forcing-pit, under sashes. Here, by watering,
airing, and good attention, good heads may be had until
mid-winter.

Marketing.—Cauliflowers are sent from here to New
York by railroad, and generally packed in barrels, but I
believe latticed boxes of moderate and uniform size would
be preferable. It is advisable to have them as large and
fully developed as possible, and yet avoid letting them
burst out or start to seed.

They should be cut the same as a head of early cabbage,
and the outer leaves trimmed off evenly, nearly or quite
down to the head, that the latter may be completely ex-
posed, and pack so that they may not get bruised.

Seed.—The seed is mainly procured from Europe, and
there is but little grown in this country, from the fact that
our summers are too hot for it.

If planted very early it will blossom, and some seed will
set under favorable circumstances, but the surest way is
to sow in July, transplant, and keep the partially-crown
heads over winter in a cold-frame or cellar, and set them

CARROT. 75

out early in the spring, something similar to our treat-
ment of early cabbages for the same purpose.
Varieties.—The Early Erfurt and Early Paris are used
for first crop; the Nonpareil and Half-early Paris for suc-
cession, and the Le Normand and Walcheren for late.

CARROT.

This is somewhat extensively grown by market-garden-
ers, and is a valuable crop for the farm-gardener as well,
as it can be shipped to distant markets, and besides is
very useful for feeding, especially for horses and colts, being
somewhat laxative, assisting digestion, promoting health-
fulness, and adding much to the appearance of the ani-
mal. The demand for carrots in cities for feeding purposes
is yearly increasing, and they bring remunerative prices.
In view of these facts, considering the comparative ease
with which they can be grown, too much value can not be
placed on this crop.

Soil and Preparation.—The carrot succeeds best ina
loamy soil, rather light than otherwise, and may be grown
in such as is generally termed sandy land. It does
not require over-rich soil, and will do full as well on
land well manured the previous year as when the
manure is applied at the time of sowing. Twenty two-
horse loads of stable-manure to the acre, broadcast, plowed
in, or one thousand pounds of bone-flour, or five hundred
pounds of guano, harrowed in, will, in naturally good soil,
be sufficient. The land should be deeply plowed, finely
and thoroughly harrowed, smoothed with the back of the
harrow, and if not then free from lumps raked by hand.

Sowing and Cultivating.—The seed should be sown im-
mediately after the land is prepared, that it may come in
contact with the natural moisture, and the more readily
germinate. For garden culture the rows should be marked
out fifteen inches apart, one and a half inch deep, and the

76 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

entire working done by hand, but where land is plenty
they may be double that distance, and worked with a cul-
tivator. In the former case the seed should be sown quite
thick, and covered by raking in. As soon as the rows can
be traced, use a push-hoe, cutting close to the plants, and
when nicely up, they must be thinned to three imeches
apart, and, of course, all weeds removed from the rows ; a
fortnight after the soil should be loosened by deep hoeing,
and later the push-hoe may be used, and such weeds in
the rows as were previously overlooked be pulled by hand.
In the latter case they are seldom thinned, except by ce-
casionally cutting out a bunch with one corner of the hoe,
and by this plan the seed must be thinly sown, and great
pains taken in preparing the soil and covering the seed,
lest it will not come up even. I would advise in either
ease that the seed be sown thick (as the germ is weak,
and does not always come up well when sown thin), and
afterwards thinned by hand, leaving the plants equi-distant, _
by which means, when harvested, the roots will be more
uniform in size, and the crop enough heavier to repay the
extra labor. When grown wide the push-hoe may be
used to advantage along the rows before the plants are
large enough to admit using the cultivator. All subse-
quent working can be done by horse and hoe, twice going
over being sufficient in clean land; and I would here add,
that crops of this kind should never be sown where foul
seed and weeds abound. For early, the seed may be sown
as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, and
for main crop any time until July.

Gardeners generally sow in May, following a crop
of spinach, sprouts, radishes, etc. From two to four
pounds of seed will be required to an acre, according to
the distance between the rows.

Preparing for Market.—Early-sowncarrots are pulled
when half-grown, trimmed, washed, and tied in flat
bunches of from four to six.

CARROT. 17

The main crop is sold by the barrel, and the only pre-
paration necessary is to remove all fibrous roots, and when
they have been stored, the sprouts must be cut off, and
retail dealers prefer to have them washed. When sold
for feeding or shipping to a distance, they must be dry,
as they will keep much better.

Gathering and Storing.—The roots can be taken up
with a spade, but the quickest plan is to run a plow deeply
beside the row, and, placing the spade back of the row,
they can be quite easily pried out. Whether for market-
ing or for seed the method of storing is the same, and
should be done according to directions given in the
chapter on storing for winter.

The general treatment is the same as for beets, except
that the tops can be cut off to better advantage than by
twisting—the same care is necessary to avoid cutting the
hearts, when the roots are intended for seed. The middle
of November is quite as late as the crop can with safety
be left in the ground, although the roots will not be ma-
terially injured by light freezing before they are taken out.

Seed,—Pains must be taken to make selections for seed,
true to the variety, which may be done as directed for
beets. The seed does best in a rather strong loxm, moder-
ately rich. After plowing and harrowing, make rows
three feet apart with the marker, along which with a
crowbar make holes eighteeninches apart; place the roots
therein, the crowns level with the surface, fastening the '
earth firmly against them with a dibble. They should be
set out about the middle of April or as soon as all danger
of very severe freezing is past.

The after-culture is the same as for beets, except that
ridging is unnecessary, and the same plan of planting
every fifth row with potatoes will ficilitate the gathering
of the seed. The seeds are prodticed in heads or clusters
at the extremities of the branches, and ripen unevenly,
hence they require repeated cuttings. When ripe, which

78 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

may be known by the seed changing to a brown color and
the branches commencing to dry, the heads must be cut
with shears, gathered into a barrel, carried to the loft, and
spread over the floor. When the crop has all been
gathered and the whole become thoroughly dry, the
heads can be removed to the thrashing fluor, and thrashed
with a flail, only hard enough to separate the seed from
the small sticks which support them, and avoid as much
as possible breaking these sticks, in order to make the
cleaning more casy. When thrashed, separate the coarser
sticks from the seed with a No. 4, and again with a No. 6
sieve, rubbing the larger seeds through with the hand;
place the seed thinly on a large cloth, exposed to the sun,
and after it has lain so for five or six hours, set a barrel in
the center; on this place a No. 8 sieve, through which
_ pass the seed by rubbing with the hand, throwing ont the
sticks as they accumulate in the sieve. Repeat this opera.
tion the following day, this time using No. 10 sieve,
which will remove the furze or beard, when it may be
finally cleaned by passing twice through the fan-mill, and
finished by No. 24 sieve. But a very few years ago it
was believed that the removal of the furze injured the
seed, and it was carefully picked out by hand, but expe-
rience has proved to the contrary, and now not a pound
of seed is sold in any seed store in this country but that
which is rubbed clean, in which condition it is more easily
handled and can be more easily and evenly sown.

Carrot seed retains its vitality two years.

Varieties.—There are but two distinct varieties much
grown for marketing,

Early Horn,— This is grown principally for early
bunching. For main crop, in very shallow soils, it could
be grown to better advantage than the long varieties,
though it would not be so salable, except for feeding pur-
poses. Root about six inches long, quite thick, and taper-

0 ee ee ee a a oe

CELERY. 79

ing abruptly at the bottom; skin and Aesh orange yellow;
foliage small.

Leng Orange.—This is the universal favorite in this
country for marketing or feeding. Root long and taper-
ing; skin and flesh orange-yellow; foliage strong,

2)

CELERY.

This with market - gardeners—especially those about
New York—is one of the main crops, and hundreds of
thousands of roots are annually grown. It is not a very
good article for shipping as usually prepared for market,
but considerable quantities are shipped as taken from the
ground.

Soil and Preparation.—Celery will do well in any soil
between sand and clay, provided it is made very rich and
thoroughly worked.

It is grown by market-gardeners as a second crop, after
cabbages, onions, etc., which are always very heavily
manured in the spring, and enough manure is left in the
soil to bring through the crop of celery, so that it 1s
planted without further manuring; and in fact, applica-
~ tions of manure immediately preceding this crop have a
tendency to cause the leaves to rust, damaging and even
destroying the celery for marketing. The method of
growing cclery at the present time is greatly simplified
over the old style. Then, deep trenches were dug out,
manure spaded in, and much labor bestowed, uselessly, as
a comparison with the modern plan will show. After the
first crop is removed, the land should be cleared of all
weeds and refuse, deeply plowed, harrowed fine, and
smoothed off, and rows made with the marker three feet
apart for the dwarf, and four feet for the larger kinds.
These rows should be sunk an inch or two, and made even
by the face of a hoe-blade drawn along, thus leaving a
broad and level surface to receive the plants.

80 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,.

This preparation, as in the case of land for late cabbages,
must be made in anticipation of rain, as the transplanting
is done at midsummer, when it not unfrequently happens
there is but little weather suited to this work; hence,
everything must be in readiness to take advantage of the
first shower.

Sowing Seed and Growing Plants.—The seed may be
sown in a hot-bed or cold-frame, if plants are desired early,
but for main crop it must be sown in the open air, as
early in the spring as the ground can be worked. Select
a piece of rich, mellow soil, a little moist than otherwise ;
plow a bed four to six feet wide, and any length re-
quired ; spade this over, mixing in fine well-rotted manure ;
make the soil fine, rake with a stecl rake, making the sur-
face level and entirely free from lumps or stones.

In sowing, use a board eight ornine inches broad, and as
long as the bed is wide; lay the board across the bed, and
with a small stick or the point of a dibble make a shallow
mark on each side of it, in which deposit the seed with
the thumb and finger, thinly and evenly ; turn the board
over twice, again mark and sow, and so proceed until the
bed is sown; then from each side, reaching half-way over
the bed, draw the back of 1 spade over each row, at the
same t'me pressing the soil; and this is all the covermg
required.

If the weather is dry an occasional watering at evening
will be beneficial.

An ounce of seed will produce six thousand plants. As
soon as the plants appear, carefully hoe them, and remove
all weeds from the rows; twice hoeing and weeding will
usually suffice, but do not allow the weeds to get the least
start. Should the plants be large enough to set out be-
fore the ground is ready to receive them, the tops may be
shorn off, which will make them stouter and prevent
them from growing spindling.

Planting and Cultivating.—During the month of July,

CELERY. 81

when the weather is suitable, the plants should be set out
six inches apart in the rows with a dibble, pressing the
earth firmly to the roots, and carefully avoid burying the
hearts. For an acre, about twenty-nine thousand plants
are required at three feet, and about twenty-two thousand
at four feet, between the rows. The plants must be care-
fully pulied from the bed, held evenly in ove hand until
it is full, when the points of the roots and the tops of the
leaves should be cut off.

The object of this is to stiffen the root, making the |
work of transplanting the more rapid, and causing the
young rootlets to form quicker, and by trimming the
leaves they do not wilt and fall over so easily as when
whole. The outer leaves eventually die away, as new
ones are formed from the heart. To facilitate operations,
one man or a stout boy should be in advance of the
planters with a basket of plants, handing them out as
they are wanted, and another should pull and prepare
the plants. When transplanted in partially moist ground,
as after a light shower, it is advisable to “puddle” the
roots as directed in the chapter on transplanting. In a
few days the plants will have taken root, when the carth
may be stirred by a fine rake, drawing it diagonally from
the rows, thus not only loosening the soil, but destroying
one crop of weeds, the seeds of which will have already
started. A week or so later, the push-hoe may be run on
each side of the rows, and the earth between stirred by
the harrow-toothed cultivator. When the plants get
fairly started, the broad-toothed cultivator may be used,
and the ground around the plants worked with a hoe, re-
moving all weeds.

The growing of celery is at a season when the weed
known as “ purslane” grows rapidly, and if this once
gets a start, it will be almost impossible to check it;
hence, keeping the ground constantly stirred is of great
importance. As the plants advance in growth, the earth

4t

82 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

must be gradually drawn to them, and when they are
about twelve or fifteen inches high, a light furrow can be
thrown toward them on each side preparatory to “ hand-
ling.” This is done by firmly grasping the leaves in one
hand, and drawing the fine soil to them with the other,
pressing it against the plant, being careful always not to
aliow the earth to come in contact with the heart. Fol-
low with the hoe, and draw the fine earth well around
the plants. This operation causes the plants to grow
“ upright and straight, which is of importance when they
come to be stored. When celery is grown early for using
in the fall, the same cultivation is required, and in addi-
tion “banking” must be performed. This follows the
earthing-up last described as soon as the leaves have
grown out and commenced spreading again. It must be
done when the soil is moist enough to compact readily.

With a spade, cut away the earth nearly perpendicu-
larly about twelve or fifteen inches from the plants,
throwing up the soil against the plants, catching it by
quickly turning the spade, and pressing it firmly. -The
sides may thus be run up or “ banked” at intervals, as
the leaves grow, working the soil about the leaves by the
hand, and gently pressing until the plants have grown to
full length, or are sufficiently “ blanched ” below to be fit
to use.

This is virtually overground trenching, and serves to
whiten or “blanch” the leaves. Trenching, though once
extensively practised, is now only used to a limited ex-
tent among market-gardeners, and to produce a small
quantity early. In growing for seed, the same cultivation
is necessary as for market, except that as the roots have
to be kept late the following spring, they may be planted
as Jate as the first of August, and not blanched, but
merely worked up enough to make the stalks upright.

_ Preparing for Warket.—That which has been “ banked

CELERY. 83

up” and that “earthed up” pretty high will be market-
able during the fall or early winter.

The earth must be removed, the plants carefully lifted
with a spade, and carried to the “ market-house.”

Remove the outer leaves, and on one side of the plant
break them away sufficiently to well expose the heart.

Cut away the small roots, and square the main root,
leaving the end rather thick, the better to hold the string ;
wash with a soft brush, having long bristles at the ends,
so as to work well in among the leaves. In tying, ee ;
the requisite number of roots for a bunch—from three to
six; usually four in the fall, and five lite in the winter;
lay ane out to form a cid oitaped bunch, always eee
ing uppermost that side of each root which has the heart
most exposed. Tie a string firmly around the root of
one, then around the next, and so on until the whole are
tied together; trim the points of the roots even, grasp
the leaves in the hand, and around them near the tips tie
a string, always bending the outer leaves to give the
_ bunch a spreading appearance. Place one dozen ina pile,
for convenience in handling. The best of the outer
leaves, and in winter such roots as are not large enough
for flat bunching, may be tied in round bunches, and are
usually sold under the name of “soup-celery.” Celery
which has been stored should be prepared in the manner
above described, but generally more roots will be re-
quired for a bunch, and the bunches will not make so
nice an appearance unless unusually well kept, but it is
more thoroughly blanched and more eatable, and conse-
quently in greater demand, especially about the holidays.

In sending to market, it should be well protected in
cold weather, as freezing after blanching will destroy the
color and damage the sale.

Market-gardeners generally use large boxes lined with
straw mats, and covered with sail-cloth, in which they
place the ae to be conveyed to market.

84 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

Storing for Market.—Celery will not be injured by
light frosts, but heavy freezing is very injurious, and it is
well to begin the storing of this crop in good season.
About the first of November the first may be put away,
and small lots at intervals, completing the whole by the
first of December. The object of this is to have it market-
able in succession, the first stored usually being the first
blanched, and so on. Celery in storing should only be
handled when dry, and never put away while it is frozen.
It sometimes happens at the season for storing that the
nights are very frosty, thus preventing handling early the
following day. To overcome this, dig the roots in the
afternoon; stack them along the trench, tops outside, and
cover with mats or cloths, and they may be put in the
trenches as early as convenient the next morning.

Dig a trench the width of the spade as deep as the
celery is high, and any length required; run a plow on
each side of the rows, and with a spade carefully lift the
plants; place them perpendicularly in the trench, stowing
them compactly ; afterwards, at intervals, press fine earth
down beside and up to the tops of the leaves, and by cold
weather have the whole ridge formed, the more readily to
carry away the water. The covering of the trench should
be gradual, to prevent heating, but when complete and
the ground is frozen over, put on sufficient coarse manure
to prevent severe freezing; this can be readily removed,
and the roots quite easily taken out when wanted.

Seed,—Selections should be made according to the
peculiar points of the variety, the object being to secure
such as are perfectly solid in the stems, and with an
abundance of solid heart-leaves.

The storing is the same as when designed for market,
but as it must be kept until quite late in the spring it is
an object to keep it dry, and this can be done in a great
measure by nailing common boards together in the shape
of a V,and inverting them over the trench, forming a

CELERY. 85

roof, and covering the whole with manure, It is advisable
to store celery for seed in very dry soil. The chances,
even at the best, are that many which may appear sound
in the spring, wil decay when transplanted; hence it is
advisable to bed them quite thickly in a cold-frame as soon
as one can be spared. They must here be partially shaded
for a few days, gradually hardened off, though not al-
lowed to freeze, and about the first of May such as prove
sound should he planted out.

Use good Jand for growing celery seed. Plow and Kar-
row well, giving a liberal dressing of well-rotted stable-
manure, unless the soil is already very rich. Mark out,
light furrows four feet apart; with a trowel set the roots
eighteen inches apart in the rows, pressing the earth about
the root, but leaving the heart exposed; keep free from
weeds by the use of the cultivator and hoe, and at the
last working slightly ridge about the plants. Celery pro-
duces seed quite profusely, in small clusters, at the ends
of the very numerous small twigs which grow out from
the stalk and branches. It ripens very irregularly, an
individual stalk often containing blossoms and green and
ripe seed at the same ee hence, some judgment is re-
quired in cutting it.

When the bulk of seed on a plant is ripe, which may
be known by the brown color, the stalk should be cut at
the root, and all such venieed on cloths and lightly
thrashed at once, which will remove all dead-ripe seed; the
stalks must then be laid on shutters and exposed to the
sun for two days, and again thrashed, when all seed that
is sufficiently ripe to germinate will readily fall from the
stalks. The sced must be spread thin, on cloths, in a loft,
for ten days or more, when it can be run twice through
the fan-mill and finally cleaned by the No. 24 sieve.

Celery seed retains its vitality five years.

Varieties.—The distinct varieties of celery in common
cultivation are very few; many gardeners claim to have a

86 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

variety of their own which is designated by the name of
the proprietor, in general parlance, as Brown’s kind,
Smith’s kind, ete., as the case may be, but in these there
is but little if any difference.

The main points of celery for market are stout heads,
solid leaf-stalks, and abundant heart. The tall-growing
varieties are now but little cultivated, the dwarf being
preferred, from the fact that it can be grown more closely
together, and is easier worked tlian the former.

Giant White Solid.—Leaves not very abundant; heart-
leaves long and solid; hight three feet.

A few years since this was the standard sort among
market-gardeners.

Dwarf White Selid.—Leaves abundant ; hearts profuse
and solid ; about two feet in hight and very stout. Now
generally in use among market- gardeners, and grown
under various names, as previously stated.

Dwarf Red Solid.—Very similar to the above, except
as to color, the stalk of the leaves being purplish red, and
when blanched the hearts are marked with rosy pink, pre-
senting a very rich appearance. In my opinion decidedly
the finest flavored, and generally the best of all.

CORN.

Sweet corn, or that used in the green state for the table,
is not grown much by market-gardeners, but is quite an
important crop with farm-gardeners not far distant from
city markets. If carefully ‘packed it may be shippers to a
distance to advantage.

Soil and Preparation.—Sweet corn should have rather
light soil, and as it is very important to get it early into
market, it should be planted in land which can be worked
early, and lies well to the sun. Asthe crop will be off in
time to allow turnips to be sown, it will be well to manure
quite heavily for this crop, in anticipation of the second

CORN. 87

one. Apply twenty two-horse loads of stable manure,
plowed in, or one thousand pounds of bone-flour, or five
hundred pounds of guano, harrowed in, to the acre. Mark
out furrows four feet apart; put in some well-rotted
manure or compost, with which mix a little soil; drop the
seed from three to six inches apart, cover two inches deep,
and press with the hoe. When desirable to work both
ways with a horse, mark furrows, three and a half feet
apart each way, and at the angles placea half-shovelful of
manure, mixing some soil with it, and put in six or eight
kernels to each hill; cover with two inches of fine earth,
and press firmly with the hoe-blade. About one peck of
seed will be required for an acre,

The amount of seed in the row or hill must be in ac-
cordance with the season, and if planted early—which it
always should be for first crop, even at the risk of having
to replant—it must be put in quite thick, as in all proba-
bility some will rot. When fairly above ground culti-
vate and hoe, and when all danger of frost is past, thin to
one foot apart in the rows, or four to a hill) The usual
time for planting is the first of May, but if it can be got
in earlier all the better, if the land lies warm. It may be
planted for succession at intervals until July.

Marketing.—The fitness of corn for the table, and
hence for market, can be determined by the kernels filling
out plump and entirely covering the cob, but as the husk-
ing to inspect its condition damages the looks, and by ex-
posing the kernels would spoil the whole, growers pull
the ears in accordance with the appearance of the silk
which protrudes from the ends, as well as by feeling. To
understand the proper condition of the silk can only be ac-
quired by experience, and to learn this a few ears must be
husked at various stages. Suffice it to say no corn is fit to
market. while the silk, or at least so much of it as protrudes
from the husks, is green. Sweet corn can be shipped in

88 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

bulk, but it is more convenient to place it promiscuously
in well-ventilated barrels.

Seed.—Sweet corn will mix with field corn if grown
near it; hence, to keep the stock pure, this must be
avoided. The cultivation is the same as for market, and
should be planted about the middle of May. Good sweet
corn for seed can be grown on inverted sward-land, using
as a fertilizer a handful of bone-phosphate to each hill,
well mixed with the soil. When the stalks begin to dry
they must be cut and bound in small shocks, the same as
field corn, and afterwards the ears husked out and spread
in a loft to dry thoroughly. The nicest but the most la-
borious way to save seed sweet-corn is, when the stalks
are partially dry, to break the whole ear off, and with
one or two of the outer husks, tie six or eight ears to-
gether, and hang them over a fence or in a loft until
they become perfectly dry, when they may be husked
out. The small grains at the point of the ear and
all imperfect grains should be removed, the bal-
ance shelled by hand and passed through the fan-mill.
Sweet corn retains moisture a long time, and must not be
hastily stored away in bulk. If kept from the weevil it
retains its vitality two years.

Varieties.—The varieties are numerous, but those in
general cultivation are few.

Extra Early Dwarf Sugar.—The earliest known sea
stalk three and a half to four feet high; ears tek
eight-rowed, rather small for market; valuable for its
earliness.

Early Eight-rowed Sugar.—The best early variety to
grow for market in quantity; stalk five feet high ; ears
eight-rowed; about eight inches long, tapering to the
point; kernels plump and full.

Mammoth or Excelsior Sweet.—The best of all sweet
corn, but rather late; stalk six feet; ears twelve to sixteen

CUCUMBERS. 89

rows, eight to twelve inches long, thick at the point ; ker-
nels long and slender, very much indented.

CUCUMBERS.

These can be safely shipped a long distance, and hence
are worthy the attention of those who are remote from
market, and desire to grow vegetables for profit.

Soil and Preparation.—The soil best adapted to cu-
cumbers is a sandy loam, and they will do well on very
sandy land if an abundance of manure is applied. Where
manure can be obtained it is far preferable to plow under
a good dressing, as the vines are rank feeders. As a rule
they are grown in hills.

For this plan, plow and harrow the ground, furrow out
six feet for the large, or feur and a half feet for the small-
growing kinds, one way, and three feet the other. At
every crossing put a shovelful of well-rotted manure or
compost and thoroughly mix it with the soil.

Planting and Cultivating.—The season for planting is
from the first to the tenth of May for early, and at any
time thence until the first of July, at which latter date
those designed for pickles may be planted, their after-cul-
tivation being the same as when the crop is to be fall-
grown. When the manure can be put in broadcast, mark
light furrows five to seven feet apart, according to the
kind to be planted; long varieties make the most vine,
and vice versa.

Drop in the seed thickly, certainly twelve or fifteen to
a foot, which will allow a fair share for the “ striped bug,”
which is certain to give them a call. Cover an inch deep
with fine soil, and press with the hoe-blade. When grown
in hills, about twenty seeds should be placed in each, and
covered as in rows.

As soon as the young plants begin to break through,

90 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

the bugs must be looked after. I have known them to
eat off the plant before it was fairly out of the ground,
and if attention is given to them at this timc, the crop
may be saved, or if passed by for a day or two the whole
may be destroyed. 'Tobacco-dust, bone-flour, ashes, etce.,
are recommended to destroy or drive away these pests,
but I have always found air-slaked shell-lime to be the
most effectual. It is quite essential to procure a bar-
rel or two of burnt oyster-shells in carly spring, and put
them into a box or cask large enough to allow of nearly
double increase of bulk by slaking. The lime should be
kept in a dry place, exposed to the air, by the action of
which it willin time slake, and crumble fine. This should
be sifted as wanted, and the dus¢ sprinkled over and un-
der the young plants, cven before a bug may be seen, as
with these ‘“‘an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of
eure.” As the plants grow they should be limed every
few days, until they begin to run, applying the dust very
early in the morning while the dew is on, thus causing it
to adhere, throwing it well under as well as sprinkling it
over the plaints. When the plants are nicely up work
with the cultivator and hoe, and repeat it as often as pos-
sible, for working among the plants disturbs the bugs, as
well as loosens the soil and destroys the weeds. When
the plants begin to run or form a vine they must be thin-
ned out to twelve inches if in rows, or three plants may be
left ina hill. If just after this they receive a thorough
cultivating and hoeing, they will scarcely require any more
attention, as the vines will soon cover the ground. Cu-
cumbers may be advanced by starting them under glass
in a cold-frame about the first of May. Cut sods about
three inches thick, and in pieces four inches square; lay
them up-side down on the level surface of the cold-bed ;
after taking out an inch or more of the soil from the cen-
ter of each sod, drop in a few seeds and cover with fine
earth ; water, and place on the sashes. In a few daysthey

CUCUMBERS. 91

will have started, when they will require airing every mild
day and closing at night. There is but little danger of
bugs when grown this way, and by the twentieth of the
month they may be removed to the open air, provided the
weather is settled. Of course the sod. is to be lifted with
the plants, and when set out, if they show any signs of

wilting, give a good watering at evening. When firmly

established they must be thinned to three plants in a hill,

the preparation of the soil and after-treatment being the
same as for regular out-door culture. When it is desired
to force cucumbers, after the crop of cabbage or’ other
plants has been removed from the cold-frames, always by
the first of May, the soil should be spaded and raked, and
a few seeds planted in the center of each section; or im-
mediately under the center of each sash.

The sashes being placed on, the seeds will soon germi-
nate, and when strong, thin to three to a sash.

In this case the plants may be forced somewhat by keep-
ing pretty close, but avoid excessive heat, as it will weaken
them, or they may be scorched, to their injury. At the
same time guard against sudden changes to cold, when

: _the sashes are opened.

is
ify 94

When the weather becomes warm and the vines require
room, the sashes may be entirely removed.

Marketing.—Cucumbers should always be cut, never
pulled, as that disturbs and injures the vines. They are
ready for market when a little more than half-grown, or
while they still retain their green color. When grown
near a market, washing will improve their appearance,
but for shipping they are better if left dry, but avoid
haying them wilted. They may be shipped in barrels or
boxes, piace shouldnot belong packed in bulk. Pickles must
be cut when one fourth to one half grown, and these, as
well as when grown full size, will be increased in andi
by keeping them cut clean, for when a part is allowed to
ripen but few more set, AG the vines soon die.

92 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

Seed.— When grown for seed the same course must be
pursued as when grown for market, except that they need
not be planted until near the first of June. To insure a
large crop, the first setting must be cut when young, and
the second blossoms will yield more than twofold. Some
advise pinching the ends of the young vines to produce
fruitfulness, but I have never scen any benefit from it.
With pure stock there is but little choice in selecting. A
few of the very best may be taken for stock seed, but
when properly grown the whole crop will be even and
uniform. When the fruit is ripe, which may be known by
their changing color from green to white or yellow, ac-
cording to the variety, they must be gathered into a barn
or shed to be cut. This is work which may be done on
wet or stormy days, but it is not advisable to let the
cucumbers remain long in 1 heap, for they will soon rot
after removal from the vines, which makes dirty work,
and causes some loss of seed. The cucumbers must be
cut lengthwise, and the seeds scraped out by the thumb
and fingers into a tub, from whence they must be emptied
into tight barrels to sour, in order to remove the mucil-
aginous pulp in which each seed is encased. The barrels
must not be more than three fourths full, for in course of
fermentation the mass increases in bulk nearly one fourth,
for which this allowance must be made.

The whole should be thoroughly stirred at least once
every day, and will be ready for washing in about five
days, or when the seed all settles to the bottom, though it
may remain longer without injury if solely in the natural
juice. The washing must be done on a clear day, and
commenced early in the morning, that the seed may be-
come partially dry by night. Take a large tub (usually a
half-hogshead), fill it two thirds with water, and pass the
seed through a No. 3 sieve, into the water; the sieve
should be held partially under, and worked about in the
water; this will retain any pieces of skin or coarse matter

CUCUMBERS. 93

in the sieve, and the seeds will settle to the bottom.
Not more than one barrel of pulp can be conveniently
washed at one time, and each lot of seed will require
several waters, which will carry away the pulp in pour-
ing off, and eventually leave the seed clean in the bottom
of the tub.

The seed must be taken out in sieves Nos. 8 and 10, and
left to drain while another lot is being washed, when it
must be placed on shutters, such as are used on cold-
frames, in the sun, to dry; the second lot taken out, and
so on, until the whole is complete. The next day the seed
can be placed thin on cloths, again exposed to the sun;
afterwards removed to a loft, and kept spread thin on
cloths until perfectly dry, when it may be passed through
the fan-mill, and finally cleaned by No. 10 sieve, which
will remove the sand, and it can then be stored.

The seed retains its vitality more than ten years.

Varieties.—The difference in the leading varieties is
quite marked.

They readily mix with each other and with melons, and
other vegetables of their class, and consequently all such
must in cultivation be kept widely separated to preserve
them pure.

Early Russian.—The earliest and smallest of all.
Fruit pale green, when ripe brownish yellow; seldom
three inches in length, thick, and blunt at the ends;
usually produced in pairs; plants small, and very pro-
ductive. Like all short varieties a free seeder, and I may
here remark that the larger and longer the cucumber, the
less seed is produced in proportion.

Early Cluster.—An old and favorite variety. Fruit
dark green above, pale below and at the ends; when ripe
dark yellow or orange; about six inches in length, thick,
tapering at the stem, rather blunt at the blossom-end;
grows in clusters; plants not of the largest, but free

94 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,

growers in good soil; very productive; a free seeder. A
valuable variety for pickles.

Early White -Spine.—The general favorite about New
York for marketing. Fruit glossy green, growing lighter
by age, and when ripe nearly or quite white; prickles
lwhite, distinct from most other varieties, eight to ten
inches in length, rather thin in comparison with the
cluster, and tapering at the stem-end; plants remarkably
free growers, and very productive; a moderate seeder.

London Long Green,—Fruit dark green; when ripe
brownish yellow, about twelve inches in length, tapering
at the stem; plants not very free growers, not productive,
snd a shy seeder.

EGG-PLANT.

A native of a tropical climate, extremely sensitive to
cold, and consequently quite difficult to grow. The fruit
ean be readily shipped, but requires careful handling, as
the skin is quite easily disfigured, and the appearance is
much damaged when bruised. On account of the atten-
tion required in the early stages, they are not extensively
cultivated. The demand for t!iem is steadily increasing,
and where the climate suits they may be profitably grown.
They succeed best during very hot, dry weather; and
when it happens there is much rain about the time of
blossoming, but few fruit will set.

Sowing Seed and Growing the Plants.—The seed
should be sown in a hot-bed, and requires more heat than
any other to germinate it.

If sown the first of April, the plants may be sufficiently
forwarded to give a crop for market, but as I have always
grown them for seed purposes specially, and the fruit
requiring at least one month after it is eatable to per-
fect the seed, I find it necessary to sow by the first of
March. It is true we have much extra labor in guarding

EGG-PLANT. 95

the plants one month more at a very inclement season of
the year, and also the trouble and expense of making an
extra hot-bed, but this is more than compensated by the
returus from a full crop of seed. In either case, the hot-
bed should be made as directed under that head, with an
addition of six inches more of manure. The surface must
be raked even, and enough sifted soil be added to make
the depth six inches, when the plants are to remain in the
seed-bed until transplanted to the open ground; but three
inches will be sufficient when it is designed to use a
second hot-bed. Spread the seed even and thin; one
ounce of seed will sow two sashes, and produce two
thousand plants; cover with one half an inch of very fine
soil; water lightly from a fine-rose watering-pot; put on
the sashes, and cover the whole from the sun for twenty-
four hours ; then remove the shading, and allow the vapor
to pass away, but do not allow the bed to become chilled,
by opening each end-sash one inch from the top for a
short time in the middle of the day. The bed must not
be allowed to become dry, nor yet be kept very wet; the
upper part may need an occasional sprinkling, but the
lower half will be naturally moist enough. When the
plants first come up, they are very liable to damp off, and
at this time but little water must be used—tlie vapor must
be allowed to pass off; still beware of chilling the plants.
If sown the first of April, the plants may be thinned to
four inches apart; but when sown the first of March, I
prepare a second and larger hot-bed when the plants are
forming the secorid leaves, which is tempered and ready
by the time the plants are large enough to handle easily.

In this bed the soil is at least six inches deep, raked
fine, and the surface even. In this the young plants are
pricked ont six inches apart, lightly watered, the sashes
put on, the plants shaded for a day or two, and during
the middle of the day for two or three days longer.
Egg-plants have but few fibrous roots, consequently they

96 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

are difficult to transplant, and great care must be taken
to press the earth against the root, and to properly attend
to the shading. Water can only be used sparingly, for
until the plants again become established there is danger
of damping off. They now require regular airing, and by
good attention, with the fresh heat under them, they soon
outgrow those in the seed-bed, and at the season of trans-
planting, from the twentieth of May to the first of June,
we have large, strong plants to sct out. As the plants
advance in growth, the frames must be raised and blocked
up, so that the leaves do not touch the glass—an advantage
in movable frames—and before setting out, the sashes
must be removed to harden the plants. Weeds will grow
freely among the plants, and must be regularly pulled
out, and the surface occasionally stirred by the finger.

Soil, Planting, and Cultivation.—Egg-plants require a
deep, light, warm soil, and it can hardly be made too
rich, The land may be prepared about the middle of
May in readiness for planting, which is usually done
about the twenty-fifth, a rainy day or just after a rain
being the most suitable time.

Apply a liberal quantity of stable-manure or bone-dust,
plow deep, and harrow thoroughly; mark out furrows
four feet apart, in which place a shovelfu! of well-rotted
manure or compost every three feet, and thoroughly mix
it into the soil with a hoe, forming a slight hill with a
concave center six or eight inches in depth.

When the weather is suitable for transplanting, water
the bed copiously, thoroughly saturating the soil; lift the
plants by means of a trowel, securing large balls of earth
to the roots, and remove thcm in wheelbarrows to the
place of planting. Set the plants in the holes, drawing
the carth to them, and firmly pressing it about the root
with the hands. Those grown in the seed-bed, if properly
thinned, may be removed the same way, which is far
preferable to lifting without the earth attached.

EGG-PLANT. Q7

The after-cultivation consists only in keeping the
ground free from weeds, which is readily done by the
cultivator and hoe.

Cutting for Market.—The fruit is marketable when
about half-grown, usually six to eight inches long, and
five to six inches in diameter at the thickest part. This,
however, can only be determined by some experience with
them. They are not eatable when the seeds begin to
swell, which may be known by the color of the fruit
changing from bright to dull purple.

On account of the thorns on the stems of some, they
are most easily cut with a strong pair of shears.

They should not be washed, but may be wiped off and
carefully laid in barrels for shipping.

Seed.—To keep up and impreve the variety, such as
are wanted for stock seed should be selected when
growing, and marked by crossing with a knife. For this
purpose select the carliest, best formed, and particularly
the deepest colored, and as far as possible from produc-
tive plants. Some may prefer to select those without
thorns on the stem, as these are pleasanter to handle,
but I have found the thorny-stemmed ones the most pro-
ductive, and the fruit is more handsome than that from
the smooth-stemmed.

The latter are, however, a little earlier than the former,
so that one thing balances the other, and it is quite as
well to grow them promiscuously. When the fruit is ripe,
which may be known by the change from bright purple
to dull purple, and sometimes to a deep yellow, those
marked for stock must first be gathered, and it is recom-
mended in selecting from the marked fruit to take only such
as have held their color well toward maturity. It is ad-
visable to make two or three gatherings of the main crop,
as the first ripe are liable to rot before the later ones are
fit for seed. At the first frost all that are marketable may
be cut and sold, as they will not ripen the seed. Cut

5

98 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

with shears, cart to the shed or barn, and prepare for
mashing or grinding. The primitive mode, which must
yet be resorted to where machinery is not at command, is
to cut away one third or more of the fruit from the stem-
end, and peel the skin from the balance. It will be ob-
served that there are no seeds in the upper or stem-end
and those below lie over one fourth of an inch from the
skin; hence much may be cut away to reduce the
labor of mashing or grinding as well as washing. The
peeled fruit may be placed in small quantity m a strong
barrel, and mashed to a fine pulp, emptied into other bar-
rels, and this continued until finished, or they may be
ground in a portable cider or wine mill. I have always
used Krauser’s Patent Portable Cider-Mill, for these and all
other things which require to be ground up in order to
procure the seed. This mill has two reciprocating levers
working alternately against a rough cylinder, and by
placing the cut part against the cylinder, bottom-end
down, the pulp is scooped out, and the skins which pass
through whole are quickly taken ont in washing. To pre-
pare the fruit for this mill we simply cut away the top
and quarter the other part, and for mashing by hand or
grinding in other mills they should also be cut, as well as
peeled. In cutting avoid using a very sharp knife, lest
many seeds be cut and spoiled, and after the fruits are cut
they must be ground immediately, for they quickly heat
and rot. The pulp,to work nicely, should be washed the
day after grinding, but may remain longer without injury
to the seed.

The washing is done principally in the same manner as
cucumber seed, except that we use a No. 3 sieve first, and
as each lot receives its third washing the seed is removed
to a barrel, and when the whole is thus far cleaned it is
again washed as before, using sieve No. 6. Two or three
changes of water will make the seed perfectly free from
pulp, when it must be taken out in sieves Nos, 12 and 14,

EGG-PLANT. 99

drained, and spread thinly on shutters. Egg-plant seed is
very liable to sprout after washing unless quickly dried ;
hence it is very important to select a dry day for the opera-
tion, and to commence early in the morning, so as to get the
seed out before noon, between which time and night, if
spread thin, exposed to the sun, and frequently stirred, it
will be fit to put on cloths, and be removed to a loft, where
it may be left spread thin until thoroughly dry. It may af-
terwards be cleaned by passing through the wind, or large
lots through the fan-mill, and the sand removed by sieve
No. 12. The seed, when well kept, retains its vitality
five years.

Varieties,—The varieties are not numerous, and the
older sorts are known as “ Long Purple” and “ Round
Purple,” differing mainly in the shape of the fruit.

The general favorite at the present time is the

New York Improved Large Purple.—This is an im-
provement on the “Round Purple” made by carefully se-
lecting the fruit for a succession of years. It was grown
by my father while gardening at Jersey City. He annu-
ally took the first premium at the American Institute
Fairs, which fact excited the attention of a New York seeds-
man, who contracted with him for an annual supply of
seed, and gave it the name it still bears.

Plant upright and compact; fruit, when marketable,
six to nine inches in length, and four to six inches in di-
ameter, thinnest at the stem, sometimes indented or
grooved on one side; color bright velvety purple, chang-
ing to dull purple and yellow when ripe, at which stage it
frequently attains a size of twelve inches in length and
eight inches in diameter; stems quite thickly covered
with thorns on many of the plants.

Black Pekin,—A very distinct variety, quite recently

introduced. Plant large and branching, with purple stalks ;
the leaves green, distinctly marked with purple and

100 FARM*GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

bronzed ; very ornamental; fruit of medium size, rarely
over six inches in dia:neter, nearly round; color black-
purple, which it retains until maturity. Its fitness for seed
is determined by shrinking of the skin when ripe.

HERBS.

The cultivation of the leading herbs is a business of
some magnitude with market-gardeners, and worthy the
attention of those who are remote from market, for in the
dry state they may be packed without risk, and shipped any
distance, and they will not be damaged if lightly packed
when green, provided they are not kept so long enough
to heat. Such as are generally grown are here described.
All herbs require a light rich soil, which should be made
fine on the surface, and generally well prepared. They
may be grown as second crops when intended for market,
by sowing in April and transplanting to the first cleared
eround, What is generally termed a bunch is about one
half as much as can be spanned by the thumb and forefin-
ger. This must be firmly bound at the bottom, and
usually two bunches are connected for convenience in
hanging up to dry.

Sage.—Mark rows one inch deep and fifteen inches
apart, in which deposit the seed moderately thin, covering
with a rake, gently pressing the earth. The young
plants may be set out fifteen inches apart, or they may be
thinned and left to grow where sown. The plants usual-
ly survive the winter, and may be parted and reset every
spring, whicu is the better plan in growing for seed. The
stems should be gathered just before blossoming, and the
crop may be cut twice in one season if grown early.

It will generally give a fair yield of marketable leaves
after the seed has been cut. The seed is produced in open
cups on slender branches, growing above the leaves, and
when ripe, which may be known by its changing to black,

HERBS. 101

the branches must be cut and placed on cloths, until the
whole is collected, as it ripens unevenly and requires fre-
quent cuttings. When dry it will readily thrash out, and
can be easily cleaned with Nos. 6 and 12 sieves, with the
aid of a gentle breeze.

The only variety cultivated for market is known as the
“ Broad-leaved.”

Sweet Marjoram.—This should be sown in the latter
part of April, the same way precisely as directed for
Celery. The young plants must be kept clean by repeated
light hoeing and weeding, and when large enough to han-
dle nicely be transplanted twelve inches apart each way,
leaving some to grow in the seed-bed. This will not sur-
vive our winters, hence must be sown every year. It
must be cut when in bloom. The seed is produced within
a “button ” of small scales, very similar in appearance
to hops, and when ripe, which may be known by the
leaves and buttons commencing to dry, the stems may be
cut entire, and as the seed is extremely small, must be kept
on cloths of very fine texture.

It can be quite easily thrashed and rubbed out when
dry, and cleaned with sieves Nos, 14, 20, and 40, and a
very gentle breeze. The variety known as “ Knotted Mar-
joram ” is the only one of any importance.

Summer Savory.—Sow the first of May, in the manner
of Sage, in very shallow drills; thin, as this must not be
transplanted, bat allowed to grow in the seed bed.

The cutting for market and also saving the seed is the

same as directed for Sweet Marjoram, using sieves Nos. 10
and 24 in cleaning, the seeds being larger.

Thyme.—This must be sown during the latter part of
April, in the same manner as directed for Celery seed, and
transplanted and otherwise treated as directed for Sweet
Marjoram. This, like Sage, will survive the winter, and
may be divided and reset in the spring, which is also the

102 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. ~

best plan in growing the seed, and as the plants will
grow strong the distance should be fifteen inches each
way. Cut when in blossom. The seed is produced in the
same manner as Sage, and, like Marjoram, is extremely
small. It ripens more unevenly than any other with which
we have to do.

To save it, when the first commences to ripen, which
may be known by its dark color and the pods becoming
yellow and some dry, place sheets of heavy paper under
each plant, well up to the stems; at noon and evening shake
the plants well, causing the ripe sced to fall on the paper,
which must be removed at night and replaced in the
morning.

Of course this can not be done during rainy weather,
but there is little danger of the seed shelling out whos
the air is damp. When the bulk of the seed has been
thus collected, the stems may be cut, dried, thrashed, or
rubbed, and the seed cleaned, all as directed for Sweet
Marjoram.

The variety known as “Spreading Thyme ” is the only
one fit for cultivation. Herb seeds are not considered
good more than two years.

9

HORSERADISH.

This is a very important and profitable crop with mar-
ket-gardeners, and is particularly adapted to shipping,
hence may be grown remote from market where the soil
is suited to its cultivation. It is propagated from sets, as
it does not produce seed ; hence there are no varieties. In
its native state it is usually found in low places, being fond
of moisture. This latter fact formerly induced gardeners
to plant it in low ground, which always gave it a luxuriant
growth of leaves, but the root, which is the only eatable
part, produced laterals and fibers, and the proportion of
marketable roots was comparatively small. When planted

HORSERADISH. fe 103

on higher ground it was found that the roots, in searching
for their favorite moisture, grew perpendicularly, and with
only sufficient laterals for sets, for future planting, thus
concentrating into marketable substance much that in the
first instance was worthless, and only a drain upon the soil.

Soil and Preparation.—The soil best adapted to this
crop is a deep loam, with mellow or free subsoil, and suc-
ceeds best on land which has been well worked and
manured for a number of years. If grown separately,
forty two-horse loads of stable-manure plowed in, or one
ton of bone-dust, or one half a ton of guano harrowed in,
should be applied to the acre. Plow deep, following with
the lifting subsoil plow, harrow thoroughly, smooth the
surface with the back of the harrow, and mark out rows
thirty inches apart.

Gardeners grow this as a second crop, usually between
the rows of early cabbages, and in this case the perfect
preparation of the soil for that crop answers for this.

The land is marked with a fifteen-inch marker, every
other row planted with cabbages or other crop, as the case
may be, and the horseradish set in the intervening rows.

Planting and Cultivation.—The sets may be planted
early in spring, but when in connection with another crop
usually about the first of May, to give the first crop a
chance to mature before the second requires the whole
ground. Along the rows make holes, eighteen inches
apart, and three or four inches deeper than the length of
the sets, using a light crowbar for the purpose. In these
holes drop the sets, the tops of which should be three or
four inches below the surface, and fill the hole with earth,
pressed to the roots by means of a dibble. The object of
this deep planting is to retard the growth when cultivated
as a second crop, and to give the first crop a chance to
mature, for if allowed an early start the rapid growth of
the large and numerous leaves would soon envelop the
other crop to its destruction. With the best of care the

104 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

horseradish may come on too rapidly, in which case the
leaves that appear above ground may be cut off with a
hoe, without materially injuring the roots. When grown
alone, this deep planting is not imperative, but is advisable,
for then, just as the leaves begin to appear, the whole
land may be harrowed over, as is frequently practised by
farmers with potatoes, thus quickly destroying the first
crop of weeds. The after-cultivation is only to keep the
land free from weeds, and as the leaves soon shade the
ground, one thorough cultivating and hoeing is all that
will be required. The sets for a start may be obtained
from market-gardeners or seed-stores, and directions for
preparing them for future supply will be given more par-
ticularly hereafter.

Gathering and Storing,—Horseradish should always
be sold after one year’s growth. The principal demand
for this vegetable is in the winter, hence the roots are
taken up in the fall, usually after all other crops are
secured, and placed in pits as directed in the chapter on
storing roots, or they may be put in a cool cellar and
covered with sand.

The main root, which is the most important, penetrates
deep, and requires considerable labor to secure it whole.

A deep furrow may be plowed away from the row to |
assist the operation, but the main labor must be done by
the spade. Itis desirable to remove the roots as nearly
whole as possible, for the small pieces are apt to vegetate
the following year, and cause some annoyance if the land
is cropped with small stuff. They can be worked out by
planting such crops the following year as require re-
peated workings with the cultivator and hoe. :

Preparing for Market.—During the winter the roots,
as wanted, may be removed to the market-house, the
crowns nicely trimmed, all lateral roots removed except
the larger ones, which may be shortened and remain
attached to the main root, for sale.

KALE. 105

They must next be cleanly washed, and laid in barrels
in which holes have been bored to let the water pass away,
or they may be drained and packed in boxes for shipping.

The roots are always sold by weight. In the process of
preparing for market, the “sets” are saved. These are
simply the lateral roots, which are cut from the main
root, usually three eighths of an inch or more in diameter,
and are cut about six inches long, the upper end squared
off, and the bottom or root end made slanting, to serve as
a guide in setting, to prevent planting upside down.

These sets should be placed in boxes, with an abundance
of sand under, over, and among them, to prevent heating,
the boxes placed in a cool cellar or in the pits from which
the large roots were taken, protected from severe frost,
and there remain until wanted for planting.

At the distance herein given nearly twelve thousand
sets are required for an acre.

KALE.

This is but comparatively little grown in this country,
excepting the variety called “Siberian” or “ Dwarf Ger-
man Greens,” and more commonly known as “ Sprouts ”
in and about New York City. For the latter market it is
very extensively grown, and immense quantities of it are
sold there annually.

This variety in its prime would seem like a cross be-
tween the Russia turnip and the Savoy cabbage, in form
like the tops of the former, but lacking the bulbous root,
and with its deep curled foliage resembling the latter,
minus the solid head.

It succeeds best in a rather light soil, which must be
highly manured ; at least thirty two-horse loads, or bone-
dust at the rate of one ton to the acre. The former must
be plowed in, or the latter harrowed in. The seed should
be sown about the fifteenth of August.

5x

106 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

The ground being thoroughly prepared, mark out rows,
eighteen inches apart; sow the seed evenly, and cover by
raking lengthwise.

When the plants are fairly up, use the push-hoe, and
thin to six inches apart. They will not require any fur-
ther attention, though if the time can be spared, a dress-
ing with the hoe may assist them to grow strong, and the
better to withstand the winter.

As early as possible in the spring loosen the ground
thoroughly by means of a prong-hoe, which is all the
cultivation necessary. They are marketable by the first
of May, and are cut in a bunch, the dead leaves trimmed
away, and sold by the barrel.

They are sometimes sold very late, even when the top is
in bloom, this part being cut away. Those who are
growing choice cabbage seed must not have this kale in
bloom anywhere near them, as it mixes very readily with
the former. To grow the seed of this the same treatment
is necessary as when grown for market. In spring re-
move all that have single leaves, as its beauty consists in
the curled leaf. When the seed is ripe, which may be
known by the bulk of it becoming dry, it must be cut,
choosing a damp time, or early in the morning while the
dew is on, and even then very careful handling is neces-
sary to prevent shelling.

After a day or two the whole will be fit to thrash,
which can be very easily done, and the seed separated
from the chaff by the fan-mill, and after having been
spread out in a loft for ten days, may be finally cleaned
by the fan-mill and No. 20 sieve. The seed retains its
vitality four years. |

LEEK.

Extensively grown by market-gardeners as a second
crop. From the fact that it must be washed and bunched

LEEK. 107

for market, it is not a desirable crop to grow for shipping,
as in this state it soon heats when packed, and quickly
decays. Gardeners prefer American-grown seed, and
hence I notice it here more particularly, as being of in-
terest to the seed-grower.

Sowing Seed and Growing the Plants,— Early in
spring select a piece of rich ground; plow, harrow, and .
rake fine; mark rows with the ten-inch marker, one and
a half inch deep; sow the seeds moderately thin, and
cover by raking in. One ounce of seed will produce four
thousand plants. When well up, work between the
rows with a push hoe; remove all weeds in the rows by
hand; afterward give a deep hoeing and keep. free from
weeds.

Soil and Preparation.—The leek requires a strong,
very rich soil, and is generally grown after a crop which
has been very highly manured. The early crop being re-
moved, clean off all weeds and rubbish, plow deep, harrow
fine, and smooth with the back of the harrow, mark rows
with the fifteen-inch marker, and be prepared for a wet
day for transplanting. This plant is not so sensitive to
drouth as some others, and may be set when the earth is
only moderately wet, when celery, for instance, could not
be set out with safety.

Planting and Cultivation.—The season of planting 1s
the latter part of July. The plants may be set six inches
apart in the rows already marked out, requiring about
seventy thousand for an acre.

The plants should be raised bya spade, carefully drawn
out, held evenly in one hand, and the loose roots and
leaves cut back one half. Plant deep, pressing the earth
firm to the root with the dibble. Push-hoe after planting,
and later give a deep hoeing, pulling all weeds from the
rows by hand; repeat the push-hoeing and weeding oc-
casionally.

108 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

Preparing for Market.—Dig the plants, peel off the
decayed leaves, cut back the roots and tops, wash, and tie
in round bunches of six to eight. Leeks may be stored
for winter the same as celery.

Seed.—They are grown for seed the same as for market,
but should be in beds of six rows only, to facilitate cut-
ting. They stand the winter without protection, and in
spring will require deep hoeing, and to be kept clean so
long as they can be worked. The after-treatment is in
all respects precisely the same as for onion seed, which is
given in detail under that head. The final cleaning must
be given by No. 18 sieve, as the seed is smaller than that
of the onion.

Leek seed can not be depended on more than one year,
but if well kept a fair proportion will germinate the
second season. :

Varieties.—The varieties are not numerous, the most
popular being known among gardeners as the

Large Flag.—The main point of this is its broad flat
leaves, whence its name.

LETTUCE

This is a very important crop with market-gardeners,
and large quantities are annually grown in the open air,
and much is grown during winter in hot-beds, and exten-
sively in cold-frames, some using over one thousand
sashes for this purpose.

It is quite perishable, especially when it has been forced,
hence it can not be recommended as a very desirable
article to send long distances to market. It is, however,
of importance to the seed-grower, as large quantities of
seed are annually used, and all gardeners prefer the
American-grown seed.

Sowing Seed and Growing Plants.—Directions are
given for sowing the seed in the fall, and wintering the

LETTUCE. 109

plants, in the chapter on cold-frames. This is decidedly
the best plan when they are intended for seed, as by
it each plant, when transplanted, grows large, forms a
head, the stock can be kept pure, and the seed is pro-
duced more abundantly early in the season, and of better
quality than when grown late.

To grow plants in a hot-bed, prepare as directed under
that head, about the middle of March; level the surface,
put on an inch of sifted soil, spread the seed thin, cover
one half an inch with fine soil, and water lightly. When
the plants are up, give plenty of air; keep the earth
moist but not wet, and before planting harden them off,
by removing the sashes a few days in advance. Good
plants may be grown, not quite so early, in a cold-frame,
preparing and sowing the same as in the hot-bed, but as
there is no bottom heat, the sashes must be kept closer.
It is very important to sow thin, to produce good stocky
plants. An ounce to four sashes properly sown will give
five to seven thousand plants. When it is desirable to
have a succession of heads for marketing, the seed may
be sown at intervals, in the same manner as in the fall for
wintering, as directed in the chapter on cold-frames.

Soil and Preparation.—When grown for market, let-
tuce should have rich soil, but when grown for seed one
half the usual amount of manure will suffice, for I find
that in very rich land the stalks decay at the root when
in blossom, and much loss is occasioned by blight. The
soil should be a moderately light loam.

To grow for marketing, apply forty two-horse loads of
stable-manure plowed in, or two thousand pounds of
bone-flour, or one thousand pounds of guano, harrowed
in, to the acre. For sced purposes, one half or less.
Plow deep, harrow fine, and smooth with the back of the
harrow. Mark rows with the fifteen-inch marker.

Planting and Cultivation.—Sct the plants out as early
as possible after the ground is dry enough to work well,

110 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

and always right after the ground is prepared, while the
surface is still moist. Plant them fifteen inches apart in the
row, pressing the earth firmly about the root, but avoid
very deep planting, as lettuce, to do well, must be entirely
above ground. It may be grown between the rows of
early cabbages, etc., and will come off in time to allow
the ground to be cultivated and worked for the benefit of
the other crop. About twenty-eight thousand plants will
be required for an acre, at fifteen inches each way, or
nearly forty-four thousand at one foot each way, at which
distance the small varieties may be grown for market,
but for seed-growing they require room to branch out,
and the distance first named is preferable. Work with a
push-hoe both ways; later, hoe thoroughly and deeply, re-
moving weeds from about the plants by hand. An addi-
tional push-hoeing will usually suffice to carry the crop
through clean, except in seed-growing, when it may be
necessary to go through with a narrow push-hoe, when
the plants are nearly in bloom. Hardy lettuce may be
sown thinly in rows fifteen inches apart about the middle
of September, and by lightly covering with coarse litter
or straw will survive the winter, and may be cut in spring
and sold by measure, or thinned and allowed to head.
The tender varieties may also be sown in the same man-
ner early in spring, and be marketed in the same way.

Forcing.—-To grow lettuce in winter, make a hot-bed
with five or six inches of soil, and when tempered, set
out the plants, about eight inches apart each way.

This should be made in avery warm. sheltered position,
and great care is required to guard against sudden
changes. Air may be given very fine days, but as let-
tuce under glass is hardly expected to head, it may be
forced rapidly, and a well-made hot-bed will bear a second
crop. Gardeners about New York grow lettuce exten-
sively in cold-frames. In addition to the frame in which
the plants are preserved, they have spare frames which

LETTUCE. 13

are covered with coarse manure or litter in the fall, and
during February and March this is removed, the earth
spaded up, and the plants set about eight inches each
way, covered by sashes, and afterwards treated as cold-
frames, except as the object is to force the plants they are
kept quite close, and allowed more moisture.

Marketing.—When the plants have formed heads
(which, by the way, never get solid as that term is ap-
plied to cabbage), they are fit to cut. This applies to
open-air culture, those growing under glass seldom form-
ing much head. Cut them close to the ground; remove
to the market-house; trim off the outer or decayed
leaves; rinse in clean water, and pack lightly in well-
ventilated barrels.

Seed.— When the stock is pure, there is little choice to
be made. It is best to go over the bed when the heads
are in their prime, and remove all such as will not head
or that show signs of impurity, if any there be. For
stock seed, sclect such as are extra fine, and by the side
of each head firmly set a tall stick as a mark, when
the seed from all such plants may be saved by itself.
When the seed is ripe, the heads in which it is contained
become plump and yellow, but as it ripens very un-
evenly, the only way is to average the whole. For
instance, some stalks will show more than one half of
the heads to be ripe, when the stalk must be cut off,
although there may be blossoms still on the same plant;
but if left for these blossoms to set and ripen, the first
and best seed will fall out and be lost. The stalks will
require two or three cuttings, as some will be more
advanced than others. The small branches to which tie
seed-heads are attached must be cut from the stalks
upon cloths, exposed to the sun until dry, and thrashed.
The cleaning of lettuce-seed is often quite tedious, espe-
cially if there be much wet weather when the blossoms
are shedding, for then they are apt to curl up and

112 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

adhere to the seed-head, forming a ball of about the
same size and weight as the seed, which renders the
separation quite troublesome.

When the seed is thrashed, remove the stems by raking
off. There will always be some heads not thrashed ;
these must be separated from the seed by No. 5 sieve,
put into a bag, and again thrashed. 3

The whole may be sifted with Nos. 8, 10, and 14 sieves
in succession, each time gathering the chaff from the top,
and casting away the litter remaining in the sieve. The
work may be assisted by sifting on cloths in the open air,
with a gentle breeze stirring to carry away the small
chaff; or where large quantities are grown, the fan-mill
may be brought in use, but the sieves will in all cases be
required to perfect the cleaning.

Give the final touch with sieve No. 24, which will
remove the heavy dust or sand, and put away in bags.

Lettuce-seed will germinate when three years old.

Varieties,—The varieties are numerous, though but
few kinds are in general cultivation in this country, and
these are quite distinct.

Early Curled Silesia. —This was formerly the leading
variety, and the seed is still extensively sold in seed-
stores, but with market-gardeners superseded by the
“ Simpson,” which it resembles, though smaller and not
as certain to head.

Simpson’s Silesia.—An improvement on the “ Silesia,”
originated some years ago by a market-gardener then at
Brooklyn, N. Y., whose name the variety still bears.
Heads large and full; leaves spreading, clear greenish
yellow, curled, crisp, and tender. The main variety for
forcing, and the general favorite about New York.

White-seeded Butter.—Heads small, compact, and solid ;
lively rich yellow; leaves smooth and close; excellent
flavor, unsurpassed for summer culture.

MELON. 113

Black-seeded Butier.—Heads medium, prominent, and
solid; rich yellow; flavor excellent; leaves spreading,
dark green; valuable for second early.

Curled India,—Heads large and prominent, compact
but not very solid; leaves curled, spreading; color,
greenish yellow, with a distinct brown tinge. The best
curled variety for summer culture.

Hardy Green or Winter.—This is the most hardy of
all the varieties, and is frequently sown in September,
in rows covered lightly with straw, and in the spring
marketed as “cut” lettuce, and sold by measure. Heads
medium size and compact, tough; leaves flat and spread-
ing, dull green, brown-tinged; heads up very quick in
spring, and used to some extent to plant among early
cabbages, but is not salable when the “Simpson” comes
in abundance,

MELON—Mwuskx.

Melons are not grown in market-gardens, but for
farm-gardens are an important crop, as they may be
shipped any reasonable distance, and usually command
paying prices, especially when grown early.

Soil and Preparation.—The soil best adapted to musk-
melons is a light loam, and they do well in such as is
largely composed of sand. Old sward land is preferable
to fallow ground.

The land should be plowed, well harrowed, and fur-
rowed out six feet one way by three feet the other.

At the intersections, put a shovelful of well-rotted
manure or compost, and thoroughly mix it with the soil,
drawing a little fine soil over the whole, making the hill
broad and flat, slightly concave in the center, to receive
the seed. The season of planting is from the first to the
twentieth of May, and to avoid a useless repetition, I
would say that the planting and after-cultivation is the

114 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

same as directed for cucumbers. They are liable to be
attacked by the same “striped-bug,” against which I
advise the same precaution and remedy. In fact, the
general remarks in regard to the cucumber are applicable
to this plant.

Gathering for Market.—Muskmelons are marketable
only before they turn yellow, and are ripe when the stem
cracks away from the fruit, at which time they should be
gathered and carefully placed in barrels for shipping.
They must be gathered every day during their season, for
they soon become yellow and soft after they are ripe.

Seed.—When intended for seed, melons need not be
gathered until quite yellow.

They should be cut open, the seeds scraped out and
treated the same as cucumber-seed. The fruit after the
seed is removed serves as an excellent food for cattle
and hogs.

Stock seed should be saved from the earliest and best
flavored of those which are used for home consumption.
The seed is good for ten years.

Varieties—The distinct varieties are not numerous,
though there are many sub-varieties of almost every
sort.

Citron.—Fruit of medium size, nearly round, flattened
at the ends; skin green and much netted; flesh thick
and fine flavored.

Nutmeg.—Fruit oval, whence the name; otherwise,
very similar to the above.

Skillman’s Fine-netted.—Fruit round, medium size;
skin green and very closely netted, whence the name;
flesh thick, fine-grained, and excellent; one of the very
best varieties.

Allen’s Superb.—A sub-variety of the citron, Fruit
very large; skin green and much netted; flesh thick,
green, solid, and excellent.

MELON. 115

Early Christiana.—Fruit medium size; skin dark green,
seldom netted; flesh deep yellow, thick, fine-grained, and
excellent. Valuable for private gardens, but on account
of the color not very salable.

White Japan.—Fruit small to medium; skin smooth,
white, and seldom netted ; flesh white, and of fair quality.

Long Persian.—Fruit large, often ten to twelve inches
in length; skin green, somewhat netted; flesh thick,
green, and well-flavored.

MELON—W ater.

Like the preceding, this is an important crop for the
farm-garden where the soil is suitable, and large quan-
tities are annually brought from the Southern States to
our Northern markets by vessel, which, by the way, is a
very convenient way of shipping where such means are
at command. ‘They are also extensively grown in New
Jersey, and in other sections North where the soil is
adapted to them.

Soil and Preparation.—The soil should be light, more
sandy than otherwise, and new ground or old sward-land
is far the best.

The season of planting is the same as for muskmelons,
and the preparation the same, except the hills should be
twice as far apart, that is, six by twelve feet, and one
half more manure may be added to advantage.

The remarks in the preceding article on muskmelons,
in regard to cultivation, may be applied to these.

Gathering for Market,— Watermelons should be
marketed when ripe, for if allowed to become over-ripe
the flesh will become mealy and nearly tasteless. The
question may here arise: ‘“‘ When isa watermelon ripe?”
Some judge by the curl at the stem, which becomes dry
when the fruit is ripe, but it sometimes happens that the
curl, and even a part or the whole of the vine, dies, and

116 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

the melon is still green, hence this is not a sure test.
Others press the melon with the hand, and if ripe the
flesh within cracks, which may be known by the sound
emitted; but this is injurious to the fruit, and hence
objectionable. The surest and safest test is by sight,
feeling, and sounding, which, however, requires some
practice and experience to enable one to judge unmis-
takably. When ripe, the color of the skin is duller than
when growing, the rind or outer flesh is spongy when
growing, but firm when mature, and there is a peculiar
sound created within the ripe fruit when smartly
“snapped” by the middle finger which can not be
described, but with which the ear soon becomes familiar
by practice.

Therefore, the only way to acquire facility in this is
to notice the color, compare the feeling and sound between
known unripe and supposed ripe fruit, and determine by
cutting the latter. But very few trials will give the
requisite knowledge, and these may be made on the first
melons before enough are ripe to make it an object to
market them, and what few may be spoiled will be more
than paid for in the knowledge gained, which once
acquired can never be forgotten.

Seed.—Those intended for seed can be left until ‘‘ dead-
ripe,” and when removed to the barn they will make a
good job for a rainy day, when the seeds can be scraped
out, placed in barrels, and after fermenting three days be
washed out, using No. 2 sieve, and otherwise treated as
directed for cucumber-seed.

Attention should be paid to selecting the best and
finest flavored specimens for stock seed. The seed retains
its vitality ten years.

Varieties.—The varieties are quite numerous, and many
are quite distinct. They easily mix in the blossom, hence
the necessity of growing different varieties at long dis-
tances from each other, and to avoid growing them near

OKRA. 11%

cucumbers, pumpkins, or the like, with which they may
become mixed and spoiled.

Mountain Sweet.—This has long been a very popular
and leading market variety. Fruit large, long, and slen-
der, narrower near the stem than elsewhere; skin rather
dark, sometimes marbled with various shades of green ;
flesh bright red, solid, and well-flavored; seeds dark
brown and drab-mottled..

Mountain Sprout.—Another very popular variety. In
size, shape, and flesh, similar to the Mountain Sweet;
skin striped and marbled with light and darker green;
seeds dun-colored.

Black Spanish.—Once very popular, but now rarely to
be found pure. Fruit large, and nearly round, somewhat
ribbed; skin very dark green; flesh bright scarlet, crisp,
and fine flavored; seeds nearly black, tinged with brown
at the small end.

Gipsy.—A comparatively new variety. Fruit medium
size, oval, and evenly formed; skin beautifully marbled
with pale green and dull white; flesh rosy red, crisp, and
most excellently flavored ; seeds small, pale, dun-colored,
distinctly marked with brown at the small end.

Citron.—This variety is grown and sold to some extent
for preserving. Fruit small, round, and even; skin light
and dark green, striped and marbled; flesh pinkish white,
solid, and without flavor; seeds red.

OKRA.

Okra or Gombo is most generally grown at the South. |
I well remember, when my father was engaged in market-
gardening he always planted a few rows of okra, and the
product was readily sold in New York at remunerative
prices, and there is no doubt a limited quantity may be
annually grown in the farm-garden with profit.

118 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

Cultivation.—It requires plenty of manure and light
soil, and may be cultivated in the same manner as sweet
corn. The seeds should not be planted before the middle
of May. It is well to use plenty of seed, as some are
Lable to rot, and when the plants are nicely up thin to four

iin a hill, or twelve inches apart when grown in rows.

Cutting for Market.—The pods are edible when about
half-grown, or before the upper part has become hard,
when they should be cut and shipped in open barrels.

Seed.—The pods are ribbed, and contain an abundance
of seeds, which lay in rows under each rib. When ripe,
which may be known by the pods cracking open, they
should be cut and put in a loft to dry, when they may
be thrashed in bags, or opened by hand, giving the pod a
sudden twist, and shelling the seeds into a sieve. I much
prefer this plan, as the seeds are not so apt to be broken,
and the work may be done of evenings, rainy days, or at
odd spells.

It can be easily cleaned by the fan-mill or a good breeze
and a No. 8 sieve. The seed is not good more than two
years.

Varieties,—The varieties usually grown are the “tall”
and “dwarf,” the former growing six feet high, and pro-
ducing long slender pods; the latter three feet high, with
short thick pods, and is considered more productive than
the former, which however produces the most showy pods
for market.

ONION.

This is a very important crop, both to the market-gar-
dener and for the farm-garden. Its culture is simple, the
demand large, and the crop most generally a paying one.
Perhaps I can not express myself more comprehensively on
this subject than to give entire an article entitled “ Onion

ONION. 119

Culture’ which I wrote for the “Greenpoint (L. IL)
Times,” with some additional remarks.

‘The high price obtained for this vegetable for several
years past has attracted the attention of farmers in those
sections where the soil and climate are adapted to its cul-
tivation. South of New York, as a rule, onions can not
be grown to any degree of perfection, direct from the seed,
not even in the market-gardens of New Jersey, and the
vicinity of New York City, and those adjacent to Phila-
delphia, all of which, perhaps, contain the finest garden-
ing soil in the United States.

** Gardeners in the sections named, find it necessary to
use what are termed ‘sets,’ which are produced by
sowing the seed very thick, in rather poor soil, and in mid-
summer; when the tops become dry, they are taken up
with trowel and sieve, placed thinly in lofts to dry, and
upon the approach of very cold weather put in heaps and
covered with straw mats, straw, or hay.

“During the fall they are overhauled, and all that are
much larger than a marble are taken out and sold for
‘pickling onions,’ or sometimes are planted about the
first of September, becoming quite strong by winter, and
are sold early in spring as green onions. These larger
sets, or ‘rareripes,’ as they are usually called, would run
to seed in time, so they must be disposed of before the
seed-stalks form. The small sets are planted as early in
spring as the ground can be worked. The land is kept
rich by being every year very highly manured. It is
plowed deep, finely harrowed, and smoothed, and rows
marked out with a drill containing seven to ten teeth,
set ten inches apart. The sets are placed about two
inches apart in the rows, pressed in with the thumb
and finger, and raked over with a wooden rake. Six rows
constitute a bed, every seventh drill being left for a path,
from which three rows on either side can be weeded at a
time. The onions from these sets are sold mostly in

120 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

bunches while green, to clear the ground for a second
crop, some being left to dry, for as they mature much
earlier than those in sections where they are produced
direct from seed, usually command high prices.

“Onion sets form an important article in the stock of
seedsmen, as they send thousands of bushels to the
Southern States annually.

‘The soil and climate of the eastern part of Long Island,
and those portions of the New England States bordering
on the Sound and salt-water bays, seem to be especially
adapted to the production of onions from seed, and there
is perhaps no better fertilizer for this crop than sea-weed,
so abundant in these waters, worked over in the hog-pen,
and composted with stable-manure, muck, fish, ete. A
top-dressing of guano, ashes, or bone-flour will be bene-
ficial in forwarding the crop, unless the land is very rich.
To grow onions from seed, select a piece of light loamy
land, no larger than can positively have perfect attention,
and let it be such as is naturally free from weeds, and if
well manured the previous year so much the better.

“Tf it has not been fall-plowed, let it be cleared of all
vines, grass, or rubbish; plow in narrow furrows eight
inches deep, harrow thoroughly, and smooth with the
back of the harrow, then apply the manure, forty two-
horse loads to the acre,which should be partly decomposed ;
spread it evenly, and plow again.

“ Tn replowing have the manure scraped into the furrows,
that it may be all covered ; apply guano, bone, or ashes if
to be used, again harrow well, and smooth the surface.
Stretch a line straight on either side, and mark the rows
with a drill made in the shape of a T, with wooden teeth
nailed on the cross-piece, any required distance apart, lap-
ping the outer tooth in the inner drill, and so on until the

bed is finished.
“T adopt the plan described above, that is, ten-inch

ONION, 12

rows, leaving every seventh drill for a path, but some
prefer twelve and others fourteen and sixteen inches space
between the rows, sowing every drill. Use a seed-sower
for depositing the seed, as it can be done easier, quicker,
and more evenly than by hand, and cover with a common
wooden rake. From three to five pounds of seed will be
required for an acre, and until the ground has become
rich sow very thin.

“The same land may be used for an indefinite time. Be
sure to use only new seed, as it is not sure to grow the
second year, and is entirely worthless thereafter. As
soon as the rows can be plainly seen, loosen the soil
with a push or scuffle hoe, running close to the rows, and
when necessary weed in the rows by hand, repeating as
often as requisite to keep clean, but avoid cutting the
onions as they begin to form. The common hoe may be
used to advantage the second cleaning, to loosen the soil.
Should there be places where they are in bunches, which
sometimes will happen, they may be thinned to one or
two inches apart. When the tops have become nearly
dry pull the onion, lay in rows, and when thoroughly dry
cut away the tops and store the onions in a cool, dry
place, if they are to be kept, choosing a dry time for this
business. Unless one has suitable stcrage room it is as
well to sell the crop from the field, and though the price
may not be so high as in winter or spring yet the risks of
spoiling are avoided. The main varieties of onions are
Large Red, Yellow Dutch, Yellow Danvers, and White
Portugal; the first being considered the best for main
crop from seed, and is the favorite in market, the second
the most suitable for sets.

“In conclusion I would say to those who contemplate
onion culture, try it on a small scale at first, and after
ascertaining by experience the amount of labor necessary
to be performed on a given quantity of land, cost of
manures, etc., as well as the amount of money to be

6

122 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,

realized from a crop, it can be determined whether it
will pay.”

The foregoing article explains the general method of
growing the crop, but as I propose to make every subject
complete, I will also give directions for marketing, grow-
ing the seed, etc.

Preparing for Market.— The ripe onions may be
shipped in bags or barrels, and should only be packed
when thoroughly dry.

Green onions from sets are marketed in bunches when
scarcely half-grown, and from thence until the tops are
dry, using twelve to a bunch at first, and reducing the
number to six or seven as they increase in size.

It is well to use such as show signs of running to seed,
first, as they do not form large bulbs, but are quite as
good as any when young.

The onions must be pulled, removed to the market-
house, divested of decaying outer leaves, nicely washed,
and tied in round bunches.

When the tops have become partially dry and the bulb
nearly ripe, they may be bunched without washing.

Growing Sets, — Onion sets now form an important
article in the seedsman’s stock, and may be grown with
profit by the seed-grower who has land suited to their
production.

The ground should be of a light character, free from
stones or gravel, in good condition, though not rich, and
be prepared the same as directed for growing the onions, ex-
cepting of course the manure. Sow very early in the spring.
Mark out rows ten inches apart, sowing six rows to a bed,
and leaving every seventh for a path, using thirty pounds
of seed to the acre, that they may be.very thick, to pre-
vent them growing large, the object of which has been
already explained, and I may here add that the smaller
the sets the better, and the higher’ price they will com-

ONION. 123

mand, those scarcely larger than Marrowfat peas being
preferred by gardeners to a larger size.

They must be kept scrupulously clean, and if the
growth is over-rank the tops must be pressed down by
rolling, or otherwise, to cause the roots to “ bulb.”
When the tops are partially dry, cut or shear them off,
lift the sets by running a trowel under them, casting into
a No. 3 sieve, by which the earth can be removed. Ex-
pose them for a few days to the sun and air, covering at
night. When fairly dry, store in lofts, three or four
inches thick, and upon the approach of cold weather place
them in heaps and cover witli mats or straw.

When needed for sale or use, run them cence or twice
through the fan-mill. They should not be moved or
handled while in a partially frozen state, nor kept long in
bulk after the cold weather is past.

Seed,—Onions for seed are grown in the same manner
as for market, and may be stored and wintered over as
directed for sets.

They are, however, when full grown, more easily injured
by hard freezing than the sets, consequently a warm place
must be selected, and more protection be given, especially
with the White Portugal, which is very susceptible of in-
jury from freezing. The selections should be made in
accordance with the form, color, and general distinguishing
points of the variety, and a few extra choice specimens be
planted for stock seed. The soil in which to grow onion
seed should be moderately rich, but if over-abundantly
manured, the blossoms are liable to blight and no seed be
produced.

As soon as the ground can be worked in the spring,
plow and harrow thoroughly, turning under a light dress-
ing of manure, unless it was well manured the previous
season. Plow furrows six inches deep and three feet
apart, in which set the onions four to six inches apart, and
cover with a hoe. Onions for seed may be planted in the

124 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

summer to good advantage, in the manner here given, pro-
vided they can be put out early, before the first of Sep-
tember, to insure a strong growth before winter.

They will stand the winter without protection, the seed
will be produced earlier than by spring planting, and the
time can be better spared than at the latter season. When
the seed is ripe, which may be known by the upper part
of the stalks together with the seed-pods becoming yellow,
and a portion of the latter bursting open, the heads must
be cut, placed in barrels, carried to the loft, and spread
thin. When thoroughly dry, they may be thrashed and
passed through the fan-mill.

By repeating this several times the most of the seed
will be clean, but there will still remain a part mixed with
such pods as have become hard, which can only be sepa-
rated by washing. This is done by placing a quantity
into a tub of water, stirring a few moments, and gently
pouring the water off. This will remove all pods and
light seed, and the heavy seed which remains in the
bottom must be spread on boards to dry. ‘The whole
crop may be washed in this manner, after twice running
through the fan-mill, if deemed advisable, as it will not
be injured by the process, provided a clear bright day is
selected for the purpose, and the seed for some time after
spread thin in a loft. It must not be put in bulk until
thoroughly ary.

The final cleaning may be accomplished by No. 14 sieve.
The seed can not be depended on to germinate after one
year, though a part will grow at two years old when well
kept.

VARIETIES.

Large Red Wethersfield.—This is the variety princi-
pally grown from seed. Bulb round and broad, flattened at
the top; skin deep red.

PARSLEY. 125

Yellow Danvers.—The best of the “ yellows” for grow-
ing from seed. Bulb nearly round; skin brownish yel-
low.

Yellow Dutch.—The variety generally used for produc-
ing sets. Bulb round, broad, and flat; skin clear bright
yellow.

White Portugal. — The leading “white” variety.
Usually commands a good price in the market, but owing
to its liability to mildew, is an uncertain crop. Does not
keep well, and when grown for seed should be set out in
the summer if any way possible. Bulb round, broad, and
flat ; skin silvery white, sometimes tinged with pink.

Potato Onion.—This does not produce seed, but is pro-
pagated by a natural increase of from four to six bulbs,
which form from the parent-root. They are the earliest
dry onions which come to market.

Plant early in spring, in light, rich soil, marking rows
fifteen inches apart, three inches deep, setting the bulbs
six inches apart, and entirely under ground. Around
these the young bulbs form and grow, and they should be
lightly covered with soil, in processof hoeing. Keep free
from weeds, and when ripe treat the same as those grown
from seed. They do not keep well unless carefully pre-
served.

PARSLEY.

The demand for this vegetable is rather limited, and as
vet hardly a suitable crop for the farm-garden, but as the
American seed is generally preferred, it is here noticed as
being of some importance to the seed-grower. It must be
sown quite early in spring, in good soil, in the same way
as carrots, and afterward treated the same as that crop.

When thinned, the plants, drawn out, are bunched and
sold, and later the leaves are cut from the growing plant
and similarly disposed of, a bunch consisting of abont as

126 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

much as can be encircled by the thumb and forefinger. » It
can be taken up and preserved for winter use, or to trans-
plant for seed in trenches, similar to celery, or bedded in
the manner of preserving “late cabbages” for seed, par-
tially burying the leaves, and covering lightly with coarse
manure or litter. When thus kept, it is taken out, washed,
and tied in bunches of three or four, the root and leaves
entire. It can be sown in cold-frames, in rows twelve
inches apart, and being protected by sashes, will be fit to
cut in winter, at which season it formerly paid enormous
profits, but now the supply exceeds the demand.

Seed.—The simplest plan is, when sowing a bed of car-
rots or beets, to sow every third row with parsley, thin-
ning to six Inches apart, which will give it forty-five
inches between rows when the other crop is removed.
When thus sown, in the fall go over and cut out all imper-
fect plants, ridge the earth to but not over them, and at
the approach of severe cold weather cover lightly with
coarse litter, which must be removed early in the spring.
When taken up in the fall, as previously noticed, the roots
may be set out in four-foot rows one foot apart, and in
either case keep clean by cultivator and hoe.

The seed much resembles that of celery, grows and rip-
ens the same, and the directions given for harvesting and
cleaning that are applicable to this crop, using No. 20
sieve for the final cleaning. Theseed will germinate when
two years old.

Varieties. — The ‘‘ Double Curled” and “Triple
Curled ” are the varieties principally grown, the “‘ Plain”
or single leaf not being salable. The former is the most
hardy, and generally grown for out-door crop, the second
being used for growing under glass.

PARSNIP.

This is extensively grown by market-gardeners, and is
one of the leading root-crops for the farm-garden, not only

PARSNIP. 127

with a view to growing for market, on account of its avail-
ability for shipping, but it possesses valuable properties
which recommend it as a food for stock. It generally
commands fuir prices, and from the fact of its being com-
paratively non-perishable, the market is seldom glutted,
and should this perchance occur, and continue through the
season, the roots may be used to advantage for feeding

animals.

Soil and Preparation.—Parsnips require good, strong,
free soil, which may be prepared in the manner directed
for carrots, using one half more manure, and as the seed
is very light, and naturally weak in the germ, thick grow-
ing is essential. They may be sown from early spring
until June, but early sowing is alvisable, as the
seed will not germinate well in hot, dry weather. The
after-culture is exactly the same as directed for car-
rots, and in fact the remarks under that head in
reference to harvesting, marketing, ete., are in the main
applicable to this crop. Parsnips are usually taken up
and stored late in the fall to be ready for winter market-
ing, but they are perfectly hardy, and when grown solely
for seed may be left until spring, when they should be
taken up, selections made, and the best transplanted, and
cultivated as directed for carrots, having the rows four
feet apart. The seed should never be grown in sections
where the Wild Parsnip grows, as it will mix and be
spoiled. The seeds are produced in clusters or heads, and
two seeds always grow together, lying the one flat against
the other. When these seeds part, the heads should be
cut, as such are ripe, and after drying in a loft, they can
be thrashed, passed through the fan-mill twice, and
cleaned by No. 10 sieve.

It ripens unevenly and requires repeated cuttings. It
will seldom germinate more than one year.

Varieties.—That known as the “Long Smooth Cup ”

128 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

or “ Hollow-Crowned ” is the only variety grown to any
extent for marketing.

PEA.

This is extensively cultivated for market, generally in
the farm-gardens not very remote from the place of sale,
except so far as its cultivation in the Southern States is
concerned. There quantities are raised for New York
and other Northern markets, and in consequence prices
for “home-grown” peas are not so good as they might
be, were it not for this competition.

Still, when Northern peas come to market the others
soon disappear, as those fresh-picked are far superior in
flavor to such as have been shipped. Early peas, for
Northern growers, may not be considered a very profitable
crop in general, but they come in when there is but little
else for market, and, as an old Dutch gardener once re-
marked, they bring in some “ early monish,” and beside
the ground is cleared in time and left in good condition
for a second crop.

Marrowfat peas, from their more prolific yield and
higher prices obtained, bring better returns, but the
land can not be cleared so early.

Soil and Preparation.—Peas require a light soil, and
to get an abundant yield, a liberal quantity of manure
must be applied.

Land lying to the southward and sheltered from the
north winds is preferable for early peas, as it is important
to have them in market as early as possible to obtain the

est prices. Plow and harrow well; mark out furrows
six inches deep, four feet apart for the early, and five feet
for the late varieties.

Spread well-rotted manure or compost in the furrows,
allowing a good shovelful to one yard of row.

Sowing and Cultivation.—Early peas must be sown as

PEA. 129

soon as the ground can be worked, and may be the first
crop planted. Sow quite thick in the rows on the ma-
nure, covering with a rake or hoe to a depth of three
inches or more. When deep planted, they will produce
the most. As soon as they are up, use the cultivator and
hoe, which repeat twice, pulling weeds from the rows by
hand. When grown on a large scale, it will not pay to
“brush”? the vines, and if allowed to lay long in one
position, the part of the vine below will rot; therefore,
every day or two after the vines have fallen down they
must be laid over by means of a hoe-handle, turning one
way one day, and reversing the next. This must be done
until the peas are fit for market, and when grown for
seed, continued occasionally until they are ripe.

Marketing.—When the pods have filled out plump,
and before they become hard, they are marketable, and
must be plucked, being careful not to tear the vines out
in handling, and may be put in bags or open barrels for
shipping, except when sent long distances, in which case
small crates are preferable, as peas are very liable to heat
and decay when long packed in heavy bulk. The pick-
ing is often done in a great measure by German women,
and where such help can be obtained, it is the best for
this and similar purposes.

Seed.—The bulk of peas sold in this country for seed
are grown in Europe, principally in England, where they
are produced quite cheaply, and free from the “bug”
which is so common in American-grown peas. The egg
of the insect is laid in the blossom or in the yousz pea,
where it hatches, producing an insect of considerable size
known as the “pea-bug,” which eats its way oud, leaving
a hole in the pea, which spoils the appearance, but does
not in the least affect the vitality, as the germ is never
destroyed.

Gardeners who understand this prefer American-grown

e*

130 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

seed for early planting. The manner of growing for seed
is the same as for market, as is also the after-treatment,

When the pods begin to dry, the seed is ripe, and the
vines must then be pulled, and allowed to lie a day or two,
but it is very important to get them thrashed as soon as
dry, for if they should get wet after becoming ripe, the
chances are that much of the seed will be spoiled.

They can be easily thrashed with a flail, taking care
not to break the seed, and can be readily cleaned by the
fan-mill.

They should be spread thin in a loft, and allowed to
become perfectly dry before being packed.

The seed retains its vitality two years.

Varieties.x—More or less of the choice European vari-
eties are planted for market, but the larger growers prefer
the

Philadelphia Extra Early.—This is of good size, full,
plump pods, and the earliest variety grown which has the
necessary requisites. Vine two and a half feet.

Marrowfat—White and Black-eyed,—There are
many Marrow peas, especially the wrinkled varieties,
which are far superior to these in flavor, but which
do not possess the requisites for marketing, hence
these old varieties are still extensively cultivated for this
purpose. Pods large and plump; vine about four feet,
and abundant bearers.

PEPPER.

Grown to some extent for market, and almost univer-
sally in private gardens, hence more or less seed is in de-
mand. The seed may be sown in hot-beds the same as the
ege-plant, it requiring considerable moisture to swell
it; the plants are to be thinned to three inches each
way, or may be transplanted at that distance into a new
hot-bed. They require a loamy soil and an abundance of

POTATOES. 131

manure. Plant the latter part of May, in rows three feet
apart, and eighteen inches between the plants,
Marketing.—The fruit is marketable when about half
grown, though some may be sold when ripe, and may be
shipped in open barrels or crates. They should be cut
with a part of the stem, but never broken from the plant.
Seed.—The seed is produced about the core attached
to the stem within the pods, and is ripe when the pods
are red and begin to shrivel, at which time the fruit may
be gathered, mashed or ground, and the seed washed out
the same as that of the egg-plant.
The seed retains its vitality two years.
Varieties.—The varieties are quite numerous, the lead-
ing sorts being the Bell or Bull-Nose and the Squash.
They are both red when ripe, the former large, quite
blunt and uneven at the lower or blossom end, but some-
times tapering. The latter is about one third as large as
the Bell, in shape broad and flat, very similar to a Tea-
plate squash.

POTATOES.

There is perhaps no vegetable grown in which the
public are so much interested as the potato, and many
farmers count upon it as one of their main crops. Of late
years, however, the uncertainty of getting a crop renders
it hazardous to plant largely.

To those who have seen the tremendous yields of this
esculent in years gone by, there naturally arises in their
minds the query: “ What is the cause of the failure of
the potato-crop of late years?” “Is it because the soil
has become exhausted of some particular ingredient?”
or “Have the seasons changed sufficiently to produce a
damaging effect?” or “Is it not more likely the seed has
run out by long-continued planting from the same stock,
and too frequently the use of small or inferior seed ?””

132 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,

It is an established fact that all vegetables are improved
by changing, thit is, getting seed from a distance, and
from soil and climate varying from that in which it is to
be planted. This theory would seem to be established
with regard to the potato when we consider what great
results have been achieved with the new varieties recently
disseminated. Take for instance the Early Rose, which
in some cases has yielded more than one hundred and
twenty-five and quite commonly one hundred pounds
from one pound of seed. So with the Peerless, which wher-
ever tried has proved most excellent. I might also men-
tion a number of others which gave much better results
than the old varieties under similar treatment. It is not
my object to try to persuade farmers to discard the old
varieties and go into new ones, though many of the latter
are worth a fair trial, and every grower should test for
himself. It is quite natural for a man when he wishes to
save seed from garden vegetables to select the best. For
instance, he saves the finest and best shaped tomatoes, the
longest and smoothest cucumbers, the sweetest melons,
the smoothest onions, and in fact everything having the
best qualities according to its kind.

He does this because he knows they can be, and are,
annually improved by this means, whereas, on the other
hand, the varieties would soon run out if seed was saved
promiscuously. This fact being then universally established
in regard to the vegetables of the garden, is it not reason-
able to attribute the failure of the potato in a great mea-
sure to the continued planting of other than choice
selected seed without change ?

Soil, Preparation, and Planting.—Early potatoes, in
which the farm-gardener is more particularly interested,
require a loamy soil, which should be plowed moderately
deep, and finely harrowed, turning under thirty two-horse
loads of well-rotted manure, or harrowing in one thou-
sand pounds of bone-flour or six hundred pounds of guano

POTATOES. 133

to the acre. They should be planted as early in the
spring as the ground can be worked.

Mark out furrows six inches deep, thirty inches apart,
in which drop the seed one foot apart, and cover with a
hoe, or throw a light furrow over them with the plow,

‘and level with the back of the harrow. Fallow ground
lis preferable to sward for early potatoes, but when sward
land is to be used for this crop, the seed may be put in as
the land is plowed, planting every third furrow, in the
manner that farmers usually pursue, covering only three
or four inches, or the land may be more deeply plowed
and furrows made as above, but this can not be so readily
done on sward as on fallow ground. It is far preferable,
if possible, to plow the land during August of the preced-
ing year; harrow well, and, if you please, sow flat turnips
broadcast, giving at the same time a dressing of five
hundred pounds of bone-fiour to the acre. After the crop
is taken off, plow again, and harrow thoroughly late in the
fall, which will leave the land in excellent condition for
the crop of the following year. Where manure is scarce,
the furrows may be marked out as first mentioned, and
the manure, which must be well-rotted, spread in the fur-
rows, a good shovelful to about six feet of row, or bone-
flour or guano may be applied lightly in the same manner.
In regard to the various methods of planting, my obser-
vations have led me to the following conclusions. In wet
seasons those manured in the row do the best, and in dry
seasons those manured broadcast and plowed in give the
best results, and in order to get between these two ex-
tremes, spread the manure broadcast, plow the ground,
and furrow out, as first mentioned, which I believe to be
the very best method of planting early potatoes. The
seed should not be covered deeply, but may be slightly
ridged, just before they come in blossom. The ground
may be lightly harrowed over just as the first sprouts ap-
pear which will destroy the first crop of weeds. The

134 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

after-culture is only to cultivate and hoe to keep free from
weeds. Various devices have been invented for “ dig-
ging” potatoes, but with the early ones at least, the spade
or digging-fork is the best. Considerable loss is sustained
sometimes by the ravages of the “ grub,” which gnaws
the surface of the tubers, thus disfiguring them, and
totally unfitting them for marketing.

A good dressing of shell-lime or ashes has a tendency
to destroy these pests, as well as being otherwise beneficial
to the crop. |

Always plant perfect seed, the largest and best that can
be had. Cut so as to leave two good eyes to a piece.
There is much diversity of opinion on this point, as well
as to what length of time a potato should be cut before
planting, but I prefer the plan mentioned, and at such time
as may be convenient, within a fortnight of the proposed
time of planting.

Varieties.—The varieties of potatoes are numerous, and
new ones are being constantly added. Many varieties
have only local reputations, and even the Early Rose, so
widely disseminated, and such a general favorite, fails en-
tirely with some growers; hence, the only proper plan for
a grower to determine which is the best for himself, is to
try a few of the leading sorts.

In growing potatoes for seed, care should be taken to
have every variety true to name, to use only perfect seed
in planting, and to grow them in new soil if possible.

They should be perfectly ripe before digging, taken up
when dry, and stored in pits or elsewhere away from frost
until wanted, but avoid warm cellars, which may cause the
tubers to sprout and injure them for seed.

RADISHES.

These vegetables are sold in immense quantities in all
markets, and many are grown in the Southern States and

RADISHES. 135

shipped North. They are, however, ef a very perishable
nature, and soon heat when packed in bulk.

Soil, Preparation, and Sowing.—Radishes to be pro-
duced in perfection must have light, warm, and rich soil,
and that which has been previously well manured is _pre-
ferable to manuring at the time of sowing, as in the latter
ease they are apt to be attacked by a small grub, and the
radishes become, to use the common phrase, “ wormy,”
hence not marketable. If the soil requires fertilizing at
the time of sowing, use bone-flour, one thousand pounds
to the acre.

They may be sown broadcast, over a bed of beets or
carrots just sown, and raked in with them, and will come
off in time to allow the main crop to be worked. This
plan is objectionable, because such crops are generally
sown on fresh-manured land, hence the radishes are liable
to be wormy, and then in gathering the bed must be
walked over, often in wet weather, thus packing the
ground, and probably damaging the main crop more
than the radishes can repay. It is far preferable to plow
and harrow the ground very early in the spring, sow the
seed broadeast, ten pounds to the acre, and cover by
raking or light harrowing. The crop will be off in time
to allow of beets or carrots being sown, when the
manure necessary for those crops may be applied, the
ground again plowed, which will be of great benefit,
the seed sown, and when ready the plants can be worked
without interruption. Radishes may be sown in _hot-
beds alone, or a few seeds be sprinkled in at the time
of sowing cabbage or lettuce seeds, or they may be sown
in a cold-frame, after the plants are removed, covered
with sashes, and by coming early command good prices.

The white and yellow varieties may be sown at in-
tervals during the summer, and the Black Spanish and
Chinese Rose in August, for winter use.

Marketing.—The long varieties must be tied in flat

156 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

bunches of from six to nine, and the round sorts in
round bunches of similar number.

The flat bunches can more easily be washed by placing
a board, sunken at one end by a weight, in a tub of
water, upon which the bunch can be laid, and rubbed
over with a soft brush. The round varieties can gene-
rally be cleaned by dipping a few times in water, either
before or after bunching.

Pack in barrels, with holes in the bottom to allow the
water to escape, or, if for a distant market, drain well
and pack in small, well-ventilated crates.

Seed.—When grown for seed, sow in rows eighteen
inches apart; when well up, use the push-hoe, and when
of fair size thin to six inches apart, leaving such only as
are true to the variety, and afterward give a deep hoeing,
and remove a!l weeds from the rows which may have
been overlooked at the time of thinning.

The Yellow Summer, Spanish, and Chinese varieties
must be sown in August, wintered in pits, and set out in
spring the same as turnips. Gardeners generally prefer
the European seed of the scarlet varieties, as they make
less tops or leaves, but the American, one year from the
European seed, produces far superior radishes. The
proper plan is to sow a few rows of imported seed, and
from the product sow for main crop the next season ; and
every year, beside the main bed, put ina few rows of
imported seed for stock, and so repeat. The imported
will not yield much seed at first, but from that a fair
crop may be had, and this will produce the finest radishes,
but if continually grown from the same stock, the tops
get long and the roots tough and spindling.. When the
seed is ripe, which may be known by the pods becoming
dry, the whole may be reaped or mowed off, and left in
rows, and occasionally turned until perfectly dry, when
it may be thrashed. The pods are of a peculiar spongy

RHUBARB. 13%

structure, and unless perfectly dry will not break, but
rather mash down by thrashing.

When thrashed, the stalks can be raked away, and the
seed easily cleaned by passing twice through the fan-mill.
It retains its vitality three years.

Varieties.—The varieties are numerous, but few are
adopted by gardeners, the principal being the Scarlets.

Long Scarlet.—Root long, slender, growing much
above ground; color deep pink, pale below ground, white
at the point.

Scarlet Turnip-rooted.—Root round, otherwise similar
to the above, rather deeper colored.

White Summer.—Root large, semi-long, tapering; color
white, above ground greenish, and sometimes pink.

Yellow Summer.—Root large, nearly or quite round;
color russet yellow.

Black Spanish.—Root large, semi-long; color dull
black.

Rose Chinese Winter.—Root large, narrow at the top,
growing quite thick and flat at the bottom; color deep
pink above, pale pink or rose below ground.

RHUBARB.

This is extensively sold in all leading markets, and may
be shipped to advantage when carefully packed.

It is propagated by parting the roots, leaving one eye
to each piece of root.

The seeds rarely produce as good as the parent variety.

Soil and Planting,—It requires very rich soil, and for
early, light land and a warm exposure are essential, though
a heavy loam will produce the largest stalks. The land
may be prepared the same as directed for asparagus, and
heavy dressings of manure must be annually applied.

Mark out furrows five feet apart, and set the roots three

138 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,

feet in the rows, covering the crowns about two inches,
The after-cultivation consists in cultivating and hoeing,
and the general manner of working is the same as directed
for asparagus.

It may be grown in a forcing pit by setting Jarge roots
thick together, burying six inches with fine manure, and
covering with sashes, which need seldom be opened,
except to apply water, which may be applied often enough
to keep the bed somewhat moist. Grown in this way it
comes early and commands good prices.

Marketing.—The stalks must be pulled, trimmed, tied in
bunches of three to six, and the leaves cut away one half.
It may be packed in ventilated boxes for shipping.

Seed.—The seed is produced on a tall stalk thrown up
from the center of the plant, and when ripe and dry may
be stripped by hand.

The seed-stalks should never be allowed to grow when
leaf-stalks are wanted for market. The seed retains its
vitality two years.

Varieties.—The leading varieties are Linneus for early
and Victoria for main crop.

SALSIFY OR OYSTER-PLANT.

The demand for this vegetable is steadily increasing,
and considerable quantities are now sold. The seed is
difficult to grow, or rather to save, as small birds are very
fond of it, and attack it when in the milk, while yet unfit
to gather. Still, when it can be saved it is in demand,
as the American seed is preferred to the imported.

Soil and Preparation.—The soil should be light and
rich, and may be prepared as directed for carrots, using
double the quantity of manure. The after-cultivation is
the same as for that crop.

Marketing.—The roots must be trimmed, washed, and

SPINACH. 139

tied in round bunches of six to eight. It is marketable
in the fall, but more generally used in winter, and can be
put away to use at that season in trenches like celery, or
in beds like late cabbage for seed, partially covering the
leaves.

Seed,—The seed is produced the second year, and the
plants, being pertectly hardy, may remain in the ground
for that purpose.

The seed-heads are very similar to those of the Dande-
lion, but much larger, and like that, when the seed is ripe,
expand to a head covered with furze. The pods should
be cut when about half-open, cutting the furze away at
the same time.

It must be attended to several times each day in the
hight, as it will soon blow away when fully expanded.
It retains its vitality two years. There are no varieties.

SPIN ACH.

Extensively grown by market-gardeners, but not a very
good article for shipping, though it may be grown to
advantage in localities not very remote from market.

Soil and Preparation.—Spinach does best in a light
loam, which, to grow it in perfection, must be highly
manured. It may follow early cabbage, onions, or any
early crop which has had a liberal manuring.

Clear the ground, plow and harrow thoroughly, and
smooth the surface, turning under twenty two-horse loads
of stable-manure, or harrowing in one thousand pounds
of bone-flour, or five hundred pounds of guano, to the
acre. Mark rows fifteen inches apart, one inch and a half
deep, in which sow the seed moderately thin, using about
six pounds to the acre. The season for sowing is about
the tenth of September, but may be sown early in the
spring, but then will not come so early into market, nor
yield so heavily as when fall-sown. It is quite hardy, and

140 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

may be exposed the entire winter, except in very cold
localities, where a thin covering of coarse straw late in
the fall will be beneficial, and which should be removed |
quite early in the spring. Use the push-hoe as soon as
the rows can be seen, and later give a deep hoeing, which
repeat again early in spring, thoroughly pulverizing the
soil.

Marketing.—It will be marketable when the inner
leaves have become considerably grown; then the larger
plants may be cut out with a knife, and later the crop may
be cut indiscriminately, by running a push-hoe under the
rows, always cutting so as to have all the leaves attached
to a small part of the root. The decayed ends of leaves
must be cut away, after which wash and place in barrels,
with holes at the bottom, and for long distances it will be
advisable to drain out well before packing.

Seed.—Much spinach seed is imported, but the Ameri-
can-grown is considered to produce the most hardy plants,
and hence is preferred by market-gardeners. It should
invariably be sown in the fall to produce good seed, and
otherwise grown as for market.

When the seed is ripe, which may be known by its
changing from green to brown, and the leaves drying
away, the stalks must be pulled, laid in rows for a day to
dry, and thrashed. It ripens irregularly, and two gather-
ings will be necessary. After thrashing, rake away the
stalks, and pass the seed twice through the fan-mill. A
considerable portion will be in clusters of five or six seeds,
which may be separated by rubbing through No. 5 sieve.
Again pass through the fan-mill, clean with No. 14 sieve,
and place in a loft on cloths to dry, before storing. The
seed retains its vitality two years.

Varieties.—The varieties are few, and that known as
the Round-leaved is the one in general cultivation.

SQU ASHES. 141

SQUASHES.

These are seldom found in market-gardens; they belong
properly to the farm-garden, and are well adapted for ship-
ping. They are grown to some extent at the South for
Northern markets, coming considerably earlier than we
can produce them, and the season may be advanced there
as well as here, by starting the early varieties on sods, in
cold-frames, as directed for cucumbers, thereby also, in a
measure, avoiding the “striped bug.”

Soil, Planting, etc.—The soil for squashes should be
a light loam.

_ The season for planting in the open ground is the middle
of May.

The preparation is the same as for melons or cucumbers,
as is also the after-cultivation. Plant the early or bush
varieties five by four feet, and the late or running sorts
twelve by six feet apart. The same attention must also
be paid to the “striped bug,” which is very destructive
to these plants.

Marketing.—The early varieties are marketable when
scarcely half-grown, always before the skin becomes hard,
and may be shipped in barrels. They require some care
in cutting and handling to avoid bruising. The late sorts
must be allowed to ripen, and can be shipped in barrels or
in bulk.

Seed,—Great care should be taken to grow varieties far
apart, as they readily mix in the blossom, and moreover
they should not be grown near melons nor anything of .
this nature. When ripe, which may generally be deter-
mined by the hardness of the skin, the squashes may be
gathered, cut open with a hatchet, the seeds scraped out,
and afterwards treated as directed for cucumber seeds.

It retains its vitality ten years.

142 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

VARIETIES,

Early Scalloped Bush,— Of this there are several
sub-varieties, distinguished by their color—white, yellow,
striped, etc.—of which the first two are the most popular.
Plant large and compact ; fruit round, scalloped about the
edge, oval next the stem, flat or indented at the blossom-
end.

Early Crookneck Bush,— Plant same as the above;

-fruit medium size, deep yellow, paruly crooked, with

slender neck, and covered with small wart-like bunches.

Boston Marrow.—Plant trailing; fruit medium size,
egg-shaped, pointed at the ends; skin deep creamy yellow.
The leading fall variety. 3

Hubbard.—The plant, size, and form same as the above;
color dull green, brown above. The leading winter variety

for market.

SW EET-POTATOES.

Universally cultivated throughout the United States,
and extensively grown at the South for market. They do
not stand handling so well as the common potato, being
liable to rot quickly when bruised. They can be profitably
grown in some parts of the Northern States where the
soil is suitable, but as a general rule are not so dry and
fine-flavored as when grown at the “sunny South.”

Growing the Plants,—The plants may be grown in a
hot-bed prepared as directed under that head, substituting
sand for the common soil, or they may be started in a
cold-frame in a warm position, removing the earth and
using sand. They may also be grown without the aid of
sashes in a common frame, in a warm and sheltered place,
covering at night with boards. In a hot-bed the tubers
should be started about the twentieth of April, and in a
cold-frame ten days earlier. In either case put two

SWEET-POTATOES. 143

inches of sand for the bed, cut the potatoes lengthwise,
placing them thickly on the bed, cut side down, and cover-
ing with two inches of sand, which may be increased to
four inches or more as the plants appear. The bed must
be kept moist but not wet, and airing be attended to,
especially with the hot-bed when the plants are up. As
the first shoots are pulled, more will be formed and grow
up. Immense quantities of plants are annually sold, and
there are few localities in which a bed of plants can not
be disposed of at paying prices. The potatoes for seed
are usually obtained from the South, as they require a
warm, dry, and even temperature to preserve them. Seed
may, oe be saved at the North by digging them on
a dry day, placing in a loft for a few days to dry, after-
wards packing in barrels with dry sand, and storing in a
dry, warm place, always handling with the greatest care,
to avoid bruising.

Soil, Preparation, and Planting.— The sweet-potato
requires a light soil, more sandy than otherwise, which
should also be dry and warm. Plow the ground deep,
harrow well, and mark out shallow furrows four feet apart.
In these os well-rotted stable manure or compost, a
good shovelful to a yard of row; plow the earth from
both sides to and over the manure, forming a ridge; even
the surface thereof, and set the plants deeply over the
manure, fifteen inches apart.

The land may be marked out four feet each way, a
shovelful of manure placed at the angles, and the earth
raised over it, forming hills, in’ each of which set two
good plants. In either case it is well to have the land
prepared and set:the plants after a rain. It is hardly safe
to plant in this section before the first of June. The after-
cultivation consists of hoeing the ridges and cultivating
between, occasionally disturbing the vines to prevent
them rooting at the joints.

Marketing. — Nosthern-grown sweet-potatoes do not

- 144 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.,

keep well under the best of circumstances, and hence it
is advisable to commence digging early, | sell them
direct from the field, finishing before frost if possible.

Varieties,—The varieties are not numerous, the “ Nan-
semond” being the one generally conceded to be the best
for a Northern climate.

TOMATOES.

They are extensively grown for market, and are an impor-
tant crop for the farm-garden. Fifty years ago they were
scarcely used for eating, while now hundreds of thousands
of bushels are annually consumed in this country, show-
ing that all vegetable productions create a mar-
-ket for themselves, a fact worthy the attention of those
who from fear that the business of vegetable-growing
may be overdone are deterred from planting many crops
which they might grow to advantage.

Growing the Plants.—The seed may be sown in the
ppen ground after frost, but at the North these plants will
be too late to mature much of the crop, though some will
sipen.

To grow them early sow the seed in March in a hot-bed,
transplant into a new hot-bed, and give the same general
treatment as directed for eed plants. though ‘Hey do not
require quite so much heat. For seed purposes or main
crop sow in hot-bed early in April, and transplant into a
eold-frame, five inches each way, covering with sashes,
and giving air clear days, By either of these methods,
the former especially, they could be produced at the South,
for the Northern market, a fortnight or more earlier than
they now are,

Soli, Preparation, and Planting. — Tomatoes will
grow in almost any soil, but to grow them early, that
composed mostly of sand is best, and for late and abun-
dant yield a loamy. soil is preferable. The ground should

TOMATOES, 145

be plowed, harrowed, and furrows made four feet apart
for light, and five feet for heavier soils, cross-furrowing
three feet apart. At the angles place a half-shovelful of
well-rotted manure, which mix with the soil, leaving the
mass holiow, to receive the plant. I have found bone-
phosphate an excellent fertilizer for tomatoes in loamy
soil, but prefer stable-manure for early crops. The plant-
ing may be done from the middle of May until the middle
of June, taking up the plants with balls of earth when it
can be done, and choosing a moist time for transplanting.

Marketing.—The fruit should be gathered before fudly
ripe, to be solid, and is usually marketed in baskets,
holding less than a bushel, or four to a barrel. For ship-
ping long distances small latticed crates should be used.

Seed.—Tomatoes for seed should be allowed to get per-
fectly ripe, when they may be gathered, ground or mashed,
and placed in barrels to ferment. They may so remain
for any reasonable length of time without material injury,
but will be fit to wash out in forty-eight hours, and the
sooner thereafter the seed is washed the brighter it will be.

Wash through Nos. 3 and 5 sieves in the manner of egg-
plant. The seed is of a spongy nature and retains much
moisture, and to facilitate drying, when it is taken out
from the tub in No. 10 sieve, take the seed in handfuls,
and press firmly to remove the water, after which spread
on shutters to dry, and treat the same as all other waslied
seeds. The very finest fruit should be chosen for stock
seed. The seed retains its vitality seven years.

Varieties.—The varieties are numerous, but compara-
tively few are distinct.

General Grant.—This may be considered as the earliest
variety, but so far as this is concerned there is very little
difference between the various sorts, under the same
treatment. Fruit of medium size, flat and smooth, solid
flesh, ripens very even; color deep red.

4

[A6 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,

Large Smooth Red,—This is the leading sort about
New York. Fruit large, thick, generally smooth, though
sometimes irregular; solid flesh, ripens even; color bright
red.

Cook’s Favorite.—Fruit medium size, round, and uni-
formly smooth; solid flesh; ripens uneven, that is, the part
next the stem Is frequently quite green in color when the
other part is ripe; color bright red.

Trophy.—A variety recently introduced; an improve-
ment on the Large Smooth Red. Fruit very large, thick
and heavy, very smooth, solid flesh, ripens even ; color red.

TURNIPS.

These are seldom found in the market-garden, but ex-
tensively grown in farm-gardens and by regular farmers.
They usually command fuir prices, and when the market
is glutted can be fed out to good advantage. They are a
first-class article for shipping, and the Ruta-Bagas are
often sent to market by boat-loads. The white, flat, early
varieties are grown to a considerable extent South, and
shipped to Northern markets in bunches or in bulk.

These may be grown to advantage at the North, for
bunching, if sown very early. The yellow, especially the
Russia or Ruta-Bazas, are the most salable in winter.

Soil and Preparation.—Turnips will grow in almost
any soil which is moderately rich. An essential point is to
make them grow quickly, otherwise they are apt to be
tough and woody. They do best in light loamy soils, and
that which has been manured for a previous crop is pre
ferable to manuring with stable-manure at the time of
sowing, as in this case they are liable to be worm-eaten
and hence unsalable. Bone-flour is the best fertilizer
that can be applied at the time of sowing, at the rate of six
hundred pounds to the acre, broadcast, and harrowed in.

Only the past fa!l, I had three beds of Ruta-Bagas, one

TURNIPS. 147

of which was manured with stable manure, and the other
two with bone-flour. The former were quite uneven and
worm-eaten, while the latter were smooth and fine, and
every way superior to the others. The land should be
plowed and thoroughly harrowed, to reduce all lumps,
aud the surface smoothed by the back of the harrow.

Sowing and Cultivation.—W hen the flat varieties are
grown early, for bunching, they had better be sown thin,
in shallow drills, fifteen inches apart, push-hoed when well
up, thinned to four inches apart, and afterwards have a
deep hoeing.

Sow very early in the spring, using two pounds of seed
to the acre.

When these or the Stone varieties are grown late for
seed or winter marketing, sow the latter part of August,
broadcast, one pound of seed to the acre, and harrow
over lightly. The Russia or Ruta-Baga should be sown
the middle of July, in drills thirty inches apart, to be
worked with cultivator, or twenty inches and worked with
a hoe, using one and a half to two pounds of seed to the
acre. In either case they must be thinned to six or eight
inches apart when fairly up, and the soil occasionally
stirred.

These are liable to be attacked when young by the
“ cabbage or turnip flea,” in which case the plants must
be sprinkled with lime-dust early in the morning. One
or two applications will free them from these pests.

Marketing,.—Early turnips are marketable when about
two inches in diameter. They can be pulled, a part of the
leaves and the tap-root cut away, washed, tied in bunches
of five to seven, and a part of the tops may be shorn off.

They may be shipped in well-ventilated barrels or
boxes. The dry roots should be marketed in barrels or in
bulk, and when kept over winter, the sprouts must be cut
off, but they must not be washed.

‘148 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING,

Harvesting and Storing.—The roots should be pulled
about the middle of November, topped and put away as
directed in the chapter on storing for winter, always being
careful not to cut away the heart of such as are intended
for producing seed.

Seed.—Turnips for seed must be set out as early as the
ground can be worked, to insure a full crop.

They do not require very rich ground; that which has
been manurcd the previous season will not need any more
fertilizing. When not in a fair state of fertility, apply
bone-flour in the rows, a good handful to about fifteen
roots, before covering. The best crop of turnip seed I
ever raised was manured in this manner. The ground
should be loamy and well plowed and harrowed. Mark
out light furrows three feet apart, and with a dibble set
the turnips fifteen inches apart, fastening the tap-root.

Cover with earth over the whole root, leaving the
sprouts above ground.

They will soon start to grow, when they must be culti-
vated and hoed, and when they commence to blossom run
the ridge-plow through and draw the earth about the
roots to support them against storms. When ripe, which
may be known by many of the pods becoming dry, the
whole may be cut with shears or sickles. This must be
done early in the morning, while the dew is still on, to
prevent shelling out. When the whole is dry, carry in,
thrash, and clean, as directed for cabbage seed. Avoid
_ growing any two varieties near each other, and especially
the Ruta-Baga near cabbage seed, as they readily mix.

The seed is good for four years.

Varieties,—The varieties are numerous, though but few
are grown for market.

Strap Leaf Early White Dutch.—Bulb medium size;

flat, white, greenish above ground; leaves narrow and
few; valuable only for carly use.

GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 149

Strap Leaf Red Top.—Bulb medium size, flat, white,
purplish red above ground. Valuable for bunching and
early fall, not very salable when the Ruta-Baga is in
market.

Yellow Aberdeen or Sione.—Bulb quite large, thick,
nearly round, pale yellow; there are two sub-varieties,
known as “Purple Top” and “Green Top” from the
color above ground, the former being generally preferred.

Long White Cowhorn.—Bulb large, long, somewhat
crooked, whence its name; white, tinged with green,
and occasionally pink above ground; very firm in flesh and
well-flavored. Very valuable for stock, and decidedly the
best white turnip for family use in winter.

American Ruta-Baga or Russia Turnip, — This is
the leading market variety. Bulb large, semi-long and
thick, smooth, tapering at the root, bright yellow. There
are two sub-varieties, distinguished like those of the
Aberdeen, and the “ Purple Top” is generally preferred.

General Management.—The old adage “ What is worth
doing at all is worth doing well” applies very forcibly to
the business of growing vegetables or seeds, and it is
worse than folly for any one to carry on either in a loose
and careless manner, and expect to realize any profit there-
from. Supposing the soil intended for this purpose and
all natural advantages to be of the best, unless fertilizers
are applied to the land, commensurate with the crop taken
from it, an abundant yield can not be of long duration,
and it matters not how well the land has been prepared,
by manuring and other means, unless the crop is taken
care of after it is sown or planted, all previous labor and
expense will have been in vain. To begin either branch
of this business, on a large scale, without experience,
must result in disappointment and loss, but for those

150 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

among the class of men alluded to in the chapter on
“ Farm-Gardening,” who have patience to begin in asmall
way, there is an inviting prospect before them, Having
already noticed the importance of liberal manuring and
subsequent care of the crop, I might add the great impor-
tance of preventing, rather than destroying, weeds; the
plowing and working of the land when in proper condi-
tion; the sowing of seeds or planting at the proper time ;
and, in short, of doing all things in season. By early and
repeated stirring of the soil, all seeds of weeds near the
surface are destroyed while in the germ, and it is a grave
mistake to wait until the weeds can be seen before the
cultivator and hoe are resorted to. Another important
point is to exercise judgment in doing the work; for in-
stance, there is little use in hoeing or cultivating when the
ground is very wet, but that is just the time to pull weeds
from among the young plants in the rows; and so on,
through the whole routine, endeavor to arrange the work
according to the weather or season, so far as may be prac-
ticable. During the winter months preparations should
be made for the spring. See that the tools and all things
are in repair; cart out manure and place it in large heaps
near where it is to be used, make up straw mats, mend
sashes, gct out strings for bunching the next season, if
any are to be used, and, in short, anything that can be
done should be done, to save time in the hurried season.
Have enough help at hand to do the work as it comes
along, and, as I remarked before, do not put in any more
crops than can positively receive proper attention. The
matter of marketing will require some judgment.
Green crops will have to be sold when fit, let the prices
be what they may, but dry roots have a season of four
months, sometimes selling highest in the fall, at others
late in the winter, and vice versa. As a rule, it is best to
sell off the most of any crop when fair prices can be
obtained.

SUGGESTIONS ON SEED GROWING.

The raising and cultivation of the plants, the harvest-
ing and cleaning of the seeds and the manner of storing
them are treated by My. Brill in a thoroughly practical
manner. ‘There are some points bearing upon successful
seed-growing, omitted by him, which it is proposed to
briefly present in this chapter.

The great majority of our vegetables are quite unlike
the plant in its wild state. By cultivation through a
long series of years, some part of the plant, that portion
most useful to man, has taken on an unnatural develop-
ment. This may occur in the root, as in the carrot; the
tuber as in the potato; in the bulb as in the onion; in the
stem as in kohl-rabi; in the leaves as in spinach; in the leaf-
stalk as in rhubarb, or in the terminal bud, of which the
cabbage is an example; the fruit is changed in a large
number, as in the squashes, tomato, etc., and finally the
seeds themselves are modified, as the peas, beans, sweet
corn, etc. These portions have not only been increased
in size, but they have acquired peculiar color, flavor, etc.,
which add to their value. When these plants are grown
under unfavorable conditions, they revert more or less to
their original wild state. ‘The carrot affords a marked
illustration of reversion. Allowed to sow its own seed
in poor soil in autumn, the plant which comes up
the following spring is left to fight its way among grass
and other plants, and in a few years it becomes the well-
known ‘‘ wild carrot.” The small woody root of this
has been, by a few years of cultivation, brought back to
the large tender root we know in the carrot. Many other

(151)

152 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

examples could be cited of the tendency of cultivated
plants to retrograde, but this is sufficient to show that the

FIRST POINT IN SEED-GROWING

is good cultivation of the plants which bear the seed.
They must be kept from reverting towards their first
condition; indeed, one of the methods of improving
plants, and, consequently their seeds, is to provide those
conditions which will allow them to assume their great-
est development. In other words, high cultivation is
necessary.

But comparatively little has been done in this ee
in the production of new varieties.

PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES.

The few efforts in this direction have produced results
which should encourage others to undertake the work.
New varieties in vegetables are obtained mainly by two
methods: by selection and by crossing.

The method of selection can be practised by every one.
Indeed, selection is of the greatest importance in main-
taining a variety at its present standard of excellence.
All annual plants from which seeds are to be grown should
have the operation of ‘‘rogueing” rigorously applied.
When the plants are large enough to show their charac-
ter, the bed should be carefully examined and every plant
that does not come up to the standard fixed for that va-
riety, pulled up and destroyed. We say that this is
needed for annuals; it is equally required by biennials
and perennials, but as these usually have to be taken up
for the winter, selection can be made when they are
handled for another purpose.

While plants raised from seed are much alike, so much
so that we recognize them as belonging to the same va-
riety, they are not absolutely alike, and sometimes the

a ee

SUGGESTIONS ON SEED-GROWING. 153

departures from the type are quite marked. By selecting
such plants as show a tendency, be it ever so slight, in
any desired direction, sowing the seed of these, selecting
from the progeny the individuals to furnish seed for the
next sowing, etc., a variety may be in time established.
Thus the flat and the globe onions were obtained in this
manner.

THE IMPORTANCE OF SELECTION

should be recognized by every seed-grower. While neces-
sary if a variety is to be kept up to the standard, it must
be applied rigorously by the seed-grower in raising his
*“stock seed.” The seed-grower who cares for his repu-
tation will send out seed from only well-grown and well-
formed specimens, having rejected all others, but the selec-
tion for ‘‘ stock seed ”—that is, the seed he sows himself, is
made with much greater care, endeavoring to insure uni-
formity in size, shape, color, etc. Upon care in selecting
his stock seed much of the success of the seed-grower
will depend.

When selection is followed for the purpose of obtaining
and establishing a new variety, it is continued through a
series of years, selecting with great care and severity,
until the peculiarities aimed at are well fixed. It some-
times happens that a seedling strikingly unlike any of the
others will be found in a bed. All such should be
watched, and if they promise to be of value, be fairly
tested.

WHEN VARIETIES ARE PRODUCED BY CROSSING

the characters of two distinct kinds are united and con-
tinued in one. As there are some intelligent persons
who do not understand the arrangement of sexes in
flowers, it will be necessary to briefly explain the parts
and their relations to one another. Any of the lies

154 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

will answer for an example, as the parts are large ard
distinct. We have in the lily, as in most flowers, the
corolla or showy part of the flower, which, in this, is
composed of six parts. The greenish object seen in the
very centre of the flower is the pistil. This at its base,
down in the narrow part of the flower, has a large, oblong
portion, the ovary. From this extends a long and
slender stem, the style, at the top of which is a sort of
knob, the stigma. Within the ovary, which in the hly
has three divisions, each division contains numerous
little bodies, the ovules, which in time will ripen into
seeds. Other flowers may show a different arrangement.
There may be several pistils, the ovary may have a dif-
ferent shape, and in some the style is much shorter or
none at all, the stigma being directly upon the ovary.
The ovary of the lily contains many ovules; others may
have but few or even but one. The pistil is regarded as
the female, its ovary, as in animals, containing ovules.
These ovules, whether few or many, do not grow and
become seeds unless they are influenced by the male
organs. These (the stamens), in the lily are six, and are
arranged around the pistil; each has a slender stalk (fila-
ment) at the top of which is borne (and in this flower
hung by the middle) a pouch or case, the anther, which,
when ripe, opens by slits and lets out a yellow or brown-
ish powder, the pollen. In other flowers the stamens
may be fewer or more numerous, the anthers of different
shape and not hung by the middle to the end of the fila-
ment, which may be much shorter or nearly absent. The
office of the stamen is to produce pollen; this falls upon
the stigma, which at the proper time is moist with a
sticky liquid. Soon after the pollen touches the stigma,
the ovules begin to grow and the ovary enlarges; in time
it becomes the seed. When the pollen-grain touches the
stigma it does not, a3 some have stated, drop down
through an opening in the style, and thus reach the

SUGGESTIONS ON SEED-GROWING. 155

ovule. The pollen makes a growth; fine threads issue
from it and passing down through the style, in time reach
the ovules, which by this act are fertilized. An embryo is
formed in them, they grow to the proper size, and are
seeds. In the lily the stamens and pistil are in the same
flower. The squash, cucumber, etc., have them in sepa-
rate flowers, but on the same plant, while the beet has
them in separate flowers which are on different plants.
The ovules and ovaries can not grow unless they are fer-
tilized by the pollen. Where the stamens and pistils are
in separate flowers, whether they are on the same or on
different plants, the pollen can not reach the stigma with-
out aid. It is sometimes carried by the wind and very
often by insects which, visiting the flowers in search of
nectar, become dusted with the pollen, which they carry
to the flowers with pistils; some of it gets rubbed upon
the stigma and fertilization is effected. When the pollen
of one variety of vegetable is placed upon the stigma of
another variety, and a seed is formed, it is probable that
the progeny of this seed will show the peculiarities of
both varieties. The resulting vegetable will be a cross
between the two.

CROSSES AND HYBRIDS.

These terms are often incorrectly used; they do not
mean the same. A cross, as has been already explained,
is produced between two varieties, while a hybrid results
from fertilizing one species of plant with the pollen of
another. Hybrids are much less frequent, and when
produced are not apt to be fertile. Crosses are very fre-
quently but incorrectly called hybrids. Crossing is an
important means of obtaining new varieties. When the
stamens and pistils are in separate flowers it is easily per-
formed by applying the pollen to the stigma of the pistil
of another variety, and covering the flower with muslin
to keep off insects. When stamens and pistils are both

156 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

in the same flower the task is more difficult. The an-
thers must be removed before they open, and the pollen
applied as soon as the stigma is ready, which is known
by the appearance of moisture on its surface. By judi-
cious crossing valuable varieties have been obtained.
Thus: the ‘*‘ American Wonder” pea is a cross between
‘‘Little Gem” and ‘‘Champion of England.” The
«Essex Hybrid” squash is across between the ‘‘ Hub-
bard” and the ‘‘Turban.” This method can only suc-
ceed in the hands of those who can handle small objects
skillfully. Those who wish to practice it should make
themselves familiar with the structure of the flowers upon
which they propose to operate.

THE PRESERVATION OF POLLEN.

Pollen may be kept for days or weeks and still retain
its vitality; indeed instances are known of its preserva-
tion for several months. It is usually preserved by wrap-
ping it ina piece of tin-foil. When it is necessary to
keep it for a very long time, it is placed in a glass tube
which is carefully sealed up to exclude the air. Pollen
is usually applied to the stigma of the flower to be fer-
tilized by the aid of a small camel’s-hair pencil.

In cross fertilizing, when both staminate and _ pistillate
flowers are in proper condition at the same time, and the
staminate are in abundance, the mere placing of the
anthers in contact with the stigma will answer. This is
a rather rough method of operating, but is effective
under proper conditions.

Quite as important as any other step in cross-fertilizing
is the covering of the flowers that have been operated on,
in order to keep off insects which, by bringing pollen
of the same variety, might interfere with the action of
that of another variety that had already been applied.

The flowers, as soon as the pollen has been applied,
should be surrounded by a piece of gauze, or similar ma-

SUGGESTIONS ON SEED-GROWING. 157

terial until the swelling of the ovary shows that fertiliza-
tion has been effected.

While the crossing of one variety of a plant with
another is of great utility when under proper control,

PROMISCUCUS CROSSING

may be a source of great loss to the seed-grower. It isa

matter of common observation that nearly related ya-
rieties of vegetables, if grown near together, will inter-
cross or, in popular language, will ‘‘mix.” Crossing
even when done intentionally, is not always attended by
improvement in the progeny. It often happens that 2
plant which is the result of a cross, will inherit the bad
qualities of both parents, and the usual effect of acci-
. dental crossing is to produce mongrels, inferior to either
parent.

The readiness with which this takes place differs
greatly. It is a matter of common observation that In-
dian corn, whether of field or sweet varieties, will ‘“‘mix”
with great readiness. In this plant the pollen is trans-
ported by the winds and crossing is often effected at great
distances.

In the Cucurbitacee, the family to which the squash,
melon, cucumber, etc., belong, the pollen is not carried
by the wind, but the large and attractive flowers are
abundantly visited by bees and other insects, which,
while they do good service in fertilizing the female flow-
ers, or, as gardeners say, in “‘setting the fruit,” when
their labors are confined to plants of the same variety,
may do great injury in bringing pollen from other va-
rieties. In raising seeds of plants ot this family, this is
a source of injuiry that should be kept in view and
guarded against.

INJURY FROM CROSSING.

It is fortunate that the seeds of these plants retain
their vitality longer than most others; indeed it is thought

158 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWLNG.

that they are improved by being kept a number of years
before sowing them, the plants having less tendency to
run to vine and being more fruitful. This fact allows
the seed-grower to have but one variety of squash, ete.
in bloom each year. In that year he can raise a sufiicient
quantity of seed to last several years, as it may be kept
without deteriorating. A number of varieties of ‘‘or-
namental gourds” are in cultivation; they are often grown
as climbing vines, but especially for the fruit. ‘This is
usually not larger than a hen’s egg, of various shapes,
and marked and striped with several different colors.
These gourds, or some of them at least, are varieties of
Oolocynthis, and have an intense bitterness like the med-
icinal colocynth. It is within the writer’s knowledge
that a crop of squashes was utteriy ruined, the flesh being
so bitter that it could not be eaten even by cattle. As
ornamental gourds grew near-by, the flesh of which was
intensely bitter, it is proper to infer that the bitterness
of the squashes was due to the influence of their pollen.
The danger is so great that the cultivation of the gourds
should be abolished.

While these and other plants are noted for the readiness
with which they cross, with others there is little or no
danger. Different varieties of peas, for example, and
of beans, may be grown in neighboring rows without ad-
mixture. While these flowers are visited by insects, it is
probable that they are fertilized by their own pollen be-
fore they are sufficiently open to be attractive to bees
and other insects. Grasses and the cereal grains, it is
well known, are always fertilized before the parts of the
flower open. Another source of danger to the seed-
grower is in those plants which having escaped from cul-
tivation, have become weeds, of which the carrot and
parsnip are common examples. The pollen of these
reverted plants seems to be more vigorous than that of
the cultivated, and there is always danger that seed-

SUGGESTIONS ON SEED-GROWING. 159

bearing flowers of the carrot and parsnip may be fertil-
ized by pollen from any wild plants that may be in the
vicinity. From the readiness with which the wild radish
may be improved and made to bear an edible root, there
is reason to apprehend danger to radish seed if raised
where the wild radish or charlock is a common weed,

THE VITALITY OF SEEDS.

Seeds vary greatly in the length of time for which they
preserve their vitality. The seeds of some vegetables,
the parsniv for example, are rarely good after they are a
year old, the majority may be kept without injury from
two to four years, while the melon, cucumber, squash,
and most others of that family, will be good at the end
of ten years. Other seeds seem to keep an indefinite
length of time. It is said that at the Jardin des Plantes
in Paris, the annual sowing of the sensitive plant (Jh-
mosa pudica) has been made from the same bag of seed
for the past eighty years.

It is often desirable to know the length of time a kind
of seed will keep, and several tables have been published,
one of which, prepared by a seedsman of experience, is
here given.

A TABLE SHOWING THE AVERAGE VITALITY OF SEEDS OF DIFFERENT KINDS.

Years. Years

Artichokes 4.2562) tas tds oe ws 5 COs A ee en nee a eee 5
PANNE ee cy oes Seng sle Siotx = 4 TEE) Cope es es are al pre 2
BSCR ie cere aw nies «ts a we've Syiy he CUES OS os Scores ah oles. os 5
Bean (isidney).<i evs sje. seen Ma UNE eter cine snss sw Maiesres are 8 5

Bee en wR os Sanh awe 5 OURS E 2ae oe ae Pe rs cease ae 2
YGCRONL. | i. viet sects on ci ies 5 Mies oie chs eivare gains amen ns 2
ADAG) deanna howe de 0.0 = CU oh Go < Sreaiae ste 6 ERS o 4
CANTGtiero. bse ames Ws cas as 4 PUBIC ue poses a2 selaeie='s 5
AMMA O WCE ce caiie sifisins omince oie Oe ERS os EX a oo 0, xin ici sisissn alas 5
ol SN a epee A a i Bh AIGENY os ac e's a a's Sate we ees 2 2
REET fhe Th i errata ade aig Aisi lad 2+) Spinach...2.é = Make Sales hee 5
iis A re Eee PRP SSUPURMEADD oceoi a claro oxy alae hea 5
LS 1 ane ae RP thee DOTRAU AG 0.5 o's oo octdaw Ue iats's a/g 5
J TS eee 9 PERDANA 5 Megs 52a whe en 2 5

Such tables are only approximately accurate, as much

160 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

depends upon the manner in which seeds are kept, the
climate, etc.

THE EFFECT OF DRYING.

A moist and warm climate is unfavorable, as are sud- |
den great changes in temperature. That the length of
time the seed is kept before sowing has an effect upon the
plants produced from it, is shown by melons, etc., which
from fresh seed are much more preductive of vines and
less so of fruit, than those which are several years old.
That drying produces a marked effect is shown by the
chestnut, walnut, and others, which if allowed to become
perfectly dry will not germinate at all. In ‘‘ameliorat-
ing” (as the French call it), or bringing wild. plants
into cultivation, itis found that the mere keeping of the
seeds out of the ground during the winter and sowing
them in the spring, give plants greatly superior to those
from seeds which were self-sown and had remained in the
earth all winter.

HOW SEEDS SEOULD BE KEPT.

_ A dry airy room is the best place for keeping seeds,
and they should not be in air-tight vessels. Cloth bags
are on this account better than tighter packages.

Some of the works advise keeping peas, beans, etc., in
jugs, tin cases, etc., in order to keep out the ‘‘ bugs.”
This implies that the imsect attacks the peas, etc., after
they are harvested, which is by no means the case. ‘The
parent of both the pea-weevil and the bean-weevil, lays
’ its eggs upon the outside of the young pod. The larva
or maggot which hatches from these, makes its way to
the growing seed which it enters and there lives and
feeds. When it has made its growth, it becomes a pupa
and remains dormant, usually until the seed is sown in
the spring, though it sometimes comes out earlier.
Whenever peas, etc., are foand to be ‘‘ buggy” the in-

SUGGESTIONS ON SEED-GROWING. 161

sects in the form of caterpillar or pupa, were within the
seeds when they were harvested. When such seeds are
placed in a close vessel and a little turpentine or benzine
is added it will usually kill the insects. Bisulphide of
carbon will most certainly do so.

THE INJURY CAUSED BY THE PEA WEEVIL.

From the fact that the weevil does not attack the germ,
and that infested seed peas will germinate, it has been
inferred that such peas were not injured, but as good as
sound seed. ‘This is a great error; while it is true that
the insect does not destroy the germ, it robs it of its
food. A sound pea has within it a sufficient supply of
nutritive material to support the growth of the young
plant until it can provide for itself by means of its roots.
It is evident that if it is deprived of a large share of this,
the germ will be poorly nourished. If the plant is starved
at the outset, its whole after-life will show the effects of
this treatment. While this would be properly inferred,
it has been shown by experiment to be true, the yield
from rows of equal length sown with sound and buggy
peas, gave results most decidedly in favor of the former.

HOW TO GET RID OF THE WEEVILS.

The pea weevil has spread to such an extent that there
are at present few localities exempt. It is more numerous
in warm localities than in cold ones, and it was supposed
that on this account Canada would be free from the pest.
Our seed dealers have had their seed peas grown in
Canada on the supposition that the insect had not
reached that country. But it appears that the weevil is
about as numerous in Canada as elsewhere, and that the
superior quality of Canada seed is due to great care in
garbling, or picking over the seed before sending it out.

It would not be difficult to exterminate the weevil in a

162 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING.

locality, if there could be united action among the culti-
vators. It does little good for one to attempt to get rid
of the insect alone, as his neighbors will supply him with
a sufficient number at blossoming time to stock his peas
with ‘ bugs.”

Wherever the pea-growers of a locality will agree to
abstain from raising the crop for a year, the insect may
be suppressed. This need not deprive the people of the
luxury of green peas, as the weevil can only come to per-
fection in the ripe seed.

The bean-weevil, which has become a serious evil only

during the past dozen years, is still more destructive than
that which attacks the pea; while there is but a single
weevil in a pea, each bean may have several, sometimes a
dozen or more. ‘This, like the pea weevil, may be kept
in check wherever the growers will act together for the
purpose.
- When there is the least doubt as to the freshness or
vitality of seeds, they should be carefully tested before
selling them or before sowing them. For sowing there
may be a large enough share of the seed good to allow them
to be used, if sown sufficiently thickly to make up for
the loss, hence in testing seeds it 1s desirable to know
just what proportion will germinate, and in

TESTING THE VITALITY OF SEEDS

the number should be carefully counted. In Germany
an apparatus for testing seeds is employed, consisting of
porous pottery which keeps the seeds continuously moist.
The most satisfactory method of testing is that which
surrounds the seeds as nearly as possible with the con-
ditions they will meet with when sown. On this account
the test of actual sowing is preferable to others. The
close contact of the soil with the seed appears to in-
fluence germination, and the compacting or “firming”
of the soil after sowing often makes the difference be-

SUGGESTIONS ON SEED-GROWING. 163

tween failure and success. Those who have green-houses
can make tests of seeds with great readiness; others will
find the best substitute in a box of soil, such as is used
for raising seedlings placed at the window of a kitchen or
other constantly occupied room. Counting out fifty or
one hundred seeds and sowing them in such a box will
give the percentage that will be likely to grow when
sown in field or garden. Another method is to fold up
the counted seeds in a piece of cloth or blotting or other
porous paper, and place them in the bottom of a small
flower-pot. This pot is plunged in the soil of another
pot two or more sizes larger; another pot, the size of the
first, is filled with earth and placed within the second
pot as a cover to the packet of seeds. The whole affair
is set in the proper temperature and the earth kept
moist. This is the next best method to sowing and has
the advantage that it allows the process of germination
to be watched, as the seeds may be readily examined from
time to time.

Seeds which germinate readily, may be placed between
folds of paper or cloth which is to be moistened, laid
upon a dinner plate and covered by another; keeping
this in a warm place with proper attention to moistening
-as required, will allow the proportion of good seed to be
ascertained with sufficient accuracy.

From what has been said, it will be seen that seed-
growing, while it is liable to losses and drawbacks, is one
that allows of the exercise of acute observation, and one
in which those most familiar with the laws of vegetable
growth may most readily avoid or overcome the obsta-
cles. It may be looked upon as one of the higher de-
partments of practical horticulture, and as such presents
attractions offered by scarcely any other kind of soil
cultivation.

164 NUMBER OF PLANTS OR HILLS ON AN ACRE.

NUMBER OF PLANTS OR HILLS ON AN ACRE.

Ft.) Et. Plants: | Pt.gn. Ft. in. Plants.
AD ay AOS o seis bi cia See are 27 rie Nc ta: ON ER oe 2151
SD yy Bo ke fu cones Sec Spee eee " o798
Soy peloee a wane ss aso cele oa eis 30 BOOM oi Gea eee 3,556
Dd DN Get canalenels seles Se melee <r 31 Bs} by Sa ee ek Ga 4,840
36 by 36 cipllesctatal ess Neliclotipisiieretatelatecets 33 8 by 9 Ce Be : 5,808
35 by DO eee wrateieletars(sicleleisis esaie 3D 3 by Oe Matte ek wee 7,260
34 by 34. Bale peteatone ave avons nie omerete 37 3 by b #Oee. Soin ese 9,680
33 by De ha. eleicie le eierenetsholale siske?> 40 3 by AS) ey Sie 14,520
32 by ERS On MORO OTe OLIde 42 2 6 by Oe IG iis se eee 6,969
TI ae eye ee teat: oa ey rh ar bre 0S 8712
30 by 80...... cece cere eee eee 48726. by 8 16.52 emeeen ee 11,616
OS lay OU se Ads. Gay debe eee BiG ong egg Ble a eee ee 17494
Be Wy 2B ceed a tha seins Ba da.8. yy tate a ls ae 10,890
BG IY al cig a. cho nie ua toiainle sieiaasorne ele 59 5) by ls xOse cea ene 14,496
26 by Oats ta ae eae wiciiclaveteiaye ate 64 2 ye bho aes 16,385
20 by Pia ay ase CaaS ke 70 9 by it Bata eae 18,668
CG gt eee Rae cree, hc a e. l"aigeg yet au eee 21 780
23 by eh citoe sets neste weet Sees 82 9 by 1O2 eee 21,969
22 by Danie okevare aoele sie'e eterale eleneveneie 90 9 by Seria ee 32,670
21 by fellate ie tarctwte tay atevete ese te vehctene vere 99 9 by. Gr ee ee 43,560
20 by | SRC eee nO Ce 109 5 Nees by PARA fee 15,681
19 by era ste elaee cWiene Gc uabeyenate suave © 121 {28 by 17065) SE eee 17,424
18 by US Pee areiaese cciole oisvers slsierete 1385 is by 5 ey. IS cre 19,602
17 by TEE ect ay Ge CE ROACH CE 151 LS by 9S. ek ee 92 402
16 by Al Grscateperaveie averenerenstsheledalelsiexets VEL aNeate by ef: aes Sake Pea eee 26,136
15 by IEA GHOHE Deo OoSoCOud o¢ 194 | 18 by 1 | ene eae a 31,362
TE DY 14.0.2 ec sees nice a aici ais 223 1 8 by Sree ue ne 39,204
13 by 1 SE, han RA OO Ce 258 Ls by Get eet es 52,272
Fé: fa, ut, In. Plants LG yy iene sie se se 19,668
42 e) eca eee eno tal. Melby Glee wecite siete 22,058
10 6 by 10 6.2.5... 6.005500 361 Ds Gy Sal, SSE Me pias, 2.kiovete s 25,288
10 iil O.% senso ee aie: a ety gi tmtens s..5 22 ogee 29,040
ON G5by 9 Oo eaee ee men 482 P erhy = cl: a aee 34,859

OC aby 8 a spies eng > toa may. CN. .oeceeee 43,560
8 36 by 18 iG. 5.2 ece ew antme 602 1 6 by O45. Bere 58,080

8 YS ae Pe icine <r 680 1 4 by BS coin alate eae 49,005

046 iy 7 ites, ea a \oieeay 6. ws eae 65,340

Pete ti a Bae Pe aCe gga > ldo ey) as See 98,010

6. Gaby © cO.cc0sseceaa sk « 1,031 i} Wy a: o's oo nt ane 43,560

6.7 Ry Ob ees toe 1.240° | dt Sy) Bee 65,340

Br OG De Ra ee. bist ee aces 4 440 | AE May Ope eee . $7,120

Bb Does co ee oes 1,742 Ay ap ge oy oe 130,680

mon Dr .

——_1oo--
Asparagus .... 0-2. --s0eeee nese eee AQ “FCG an 8 = soe ide eo = ies sees cos 79
ue Cutting and Bunching... 44 + " Planting and Cultivating. Be SO
ae Growing for Family Use. 45 “+ Prep: aring for Market........ 82
=e Growing Plants....... 40) “© Raising Sendewee. ose: 84
= Planting and Cultivating 42 “ Soil and Preparation... .... 79
Lt Preparation and Soil for. 41 * Sowing Seed and Growing
“ Riisins Seed Ol-.s3-s2 45 Plants eae ea DEE: Ie . 80
é Varieties of........ ae sc Storine forMarket. <......- 84
Beans, Bush or Dwarf.......-..----- 46 SE VATTCLICR Olina: fo.) ncn s!sis-eV2 85
Planting and Cultivating... 47 | Cold-Frames ........-.----++++-+++- 22
“© Pole or Running La Be pale 49 | Conclusion........ i 149
‘© Preparing for Market.....-. Ay VER eas eis ae setae» wate se 3 86
ss nics Seed ©. =. -....2----- At CORA KEUNG eran o 3-7 Dok ries 87
“© Soiland Preparation for.. . 46 tee PRE PIO ECE ices cpa ce eee = 3B
So eeVriCties Ole fotseciis viele ce se 48 © Soil and Preparation for... .. 86
GGL S eee ee ee tere sais: Ss." 50 CO Niarretles Olen otreeiescce ons so sees &S
* Quathering and Storing. .....-- 53 Cucumbers oe 5 ie ER pa eS eh 89
“ Preparine for Market. Ss OPIS 52 Marketatio>.- 5 \.cc'see ee 91
« Raising Seed ...........--+-- 53 oe Halse peed... casa 92
* Soil and Preparation for...... 51 ue Planting and Cultivating 89
“ Sowing and Cultivating ..:.. -- 51 ae Varieties! Of. -ciccess ace = 93
“ Varieties of ...... Eee ae 56 Egg-Plants ee tees oe che ee 94
Brocco. 3s .2.-2es SS ane 57 Cutting for Market...... 97
Buildings ... .....s-- +--+ -ee-eeeees 35 ee Raising Seed........ ...- 97
Cabbages, Enrly. .-. Seay se Soil, Planting and Culti-
nts Cutting and. Marketing. . 60 Wabiedien Oe. see
ae Planting and Cultivating 60 c Sowing Seed and Grow-
i Raising” icin be AE Bae Bee 61 ihae 1 UOT ae eeeoe
"3 Soil and Preparation for. 57 mt Varieties of..........--- 99
et Sowing Seed and Grow- Foreing-Pit.. -...... ----+-2-s0e-e- 27
ing Plants. .....---+---- 58 Gardening, QAISE Ses Sosiare des ecies 8
phe WearieCHes iL. kre tien a> «Suc 63 Mapkets-c52 osc ese oes q
Cabbages, Eatesto. _ 65 | General Management........----- 149
Cutting and “Marketing. SOE, We RECRHA.. so ao 5 seater ng one eee = ne 100
ce Planting and Cultivating. 67 Horseradish. . CPN tate eles rors eee Oe 102
ae RAS CSCCU ee fe eh ici 68 Gathering and Storing. 104
oa Soil and Preparation.... 65 Re Planting and Cultiva-
a Sowing Seed and Grow- tion Of nse teenie :
Beg etd Aas dawns oe eee = 66 5 Preparing for Market. .104
e Storing for Winter ..... 68 Soil and Preparation
os VATICHIES He sc cass s. Sete 71 FOR es los ee
Cabbage, Turnip- Rooted ....-.. .-- HD \ WOtCBeGds. .c-- 2-02 se sn ce eres eee 25
GerOtane ee ees hoe ase Sas ne selmi 75 Implements, Cultivator... ....-.-.+-- 29
Ee Gathering and Storing..... "7 Dibilers ees acecuicss 31
‘ Preparing for Market ...... 76 os WOEKS setae eee oa 32
* Raising [Oo a a re 7 ee Garden-Line... ....-- 3
‘Soil and Preparation... ... 75 es Harrow..------ + <== *-< 28
“ Sowing and Cultivating ... % eS Hoc seh eee 29
On. Warestics efss. Sie... --< Felts ‘s Markers Ney FRR oe 30
@Canliiower.;220520-/3- 22 <s'<s ee "2 S Plow. 2et cee 52 ee 28
: Maricetine |... ...+0..... T4 sf: Rakes sane tee cee see 30
xe Raising Seed.. See 44 = Sie hy eee oredorS. By
es Soil and Preparation for. 73 - Spade. .2i.c.2+- 29
os MPIC EIES A. 6-2 0cnas «a ; 2 Trowel. et Eee Seu: 32

1€5

166 INDEX.
INSeCtSis. oe. a are arava la cole teva tore ictetetoas Jars 19 | Potatoes= a. eee Aono odor ccae ole!
UMtrOMMCtiON Ty. <.c.s eel traci see D > =o SOlls Preparation, and
AGC eee epee oo pa acre baie. tise 105 Pianting ccc a. s. 132
KGHISRAD Sate sass wav ceste 72 it “Wariebies of 2... eee 134
MGC ClESR rs sine cae Scare ie oats 106 | Radishes...... Pgs wrote y airs eae 134
ue Planting and Cultivation of. 107 - Markenn@ <<. os.ee eee 135
“ Preparing for Market..... ..108 +. “Raisine Seed.>. s9a5 sane 136
** Soil and Preparation fora 107 ** Soil, Preparation, and.
oe Sowing Seed and Growing Sowing siodsrotte Wa) aysuaietavahacayete iene 135
Plants Wee ase eee 107 “e Warietics of... :. ..eeeee 137
Sor INUIT CHLGS (OLA te coe creie arene sien AOS) PHD Dic). cisiaie ete s, cain care eee 137
Lettuce. . HSA Re aoe ae 108 “Sy, QAP RE GIN . o.(0o05 + oc cee 138
orcs. i.e ob ers 110 ) URkisiie Seed... -.. aoe 138
Seer ice pinlony 2 (aman sail ce Soil and BTanibince eee 137
“ Planting and Cultivation. ..109 COMPEN AGICCIOR Eli. :0- nee 138
i ORasmMomsecd.. . 5... .o.. Lt Roots, Stone for Wanter... 2.2 es) o6
“ Soil and Preparation fore: MOO! SwOC a4 mice, Sea teee eA e oceaiars one 100
** Sowing Seed and Growing Salsify or Oyster- -Plant.. Sapes 138
Plants ee ae ee ee 108 Moarikxetino et) a. shoes aes 138
Se ME VATICLIES Olsen e ern 112 “Raising Geet ost rae ..139
Machines, Fan-Mill......... ..... 3F ** Soil and Preparation for... .138
se Seed-Sowers.......-.... SR e | Sasheseniy see ec tivse oe nares aoe 33
a WAGONS 3.5 0 yee teas . 35 -| Seed Cloths...... wiShal aia, crore rola wrote 34
us Wheelbarrows...... Prod. Se GRO WANE?. hice elas ahem 10, 155
Manures and Manuring............ 12 aS Harvesting and Cleaning... .. 37
IMttS US Grilwa tera oie nore dees Pre SNOWING! oS. scat eee eee 16
Melons SMuske sas) snfwereie nee es TIS | SUMttersc ccmer ak ots oh ele eens eee eceioe 34
‘¢ Gathering for Market...... 114 | Sieves.... Bn dice RAT a
“Jee RAISINS: Seed.2.9..... ..114 | Soil and Preparation. Pee Re ae
“Soil and Preparation for.. 113 PS} OU NUENG tee RienEt nen GeO oe. duadenA 13
‘ WATICUIGS: Of eran s., sfeelse 114 ge Marketing A Sow dts ARV. cre ote 140
Melons, Water... ctrmeiise cee ee 115 60 SoA SIO: S Ce Cl eee eee 140
“ Gathering for Market...... a ot Soil and Preparation for. . .139
SO ARS TM OU SCAM nen ete ee Bllil(s: oto PE NTADICLICS Olesen a. aerate 140
>" “Soiland ‘Preparation for!..1415) | Squyshes.e a. 20> a.) ae ge seni wees eee 141
OEE IVARTCTICSION ciate. sein ore cee « 116 iS Marketing .a4.2 0 seem. 141
Number of Plants or Hills on an a Raising Séed. 2.54.2... 141
PREV OB ote, 2 cits optinain eye joata Om ak, «| AE pk 151 3 Soil. Planting, ete., of... .141
ROD test eme nee tcc Paces eo cea ta arctetniers Shee suet 117 ef Varieties Of gs n a. caeecee 142
rape CUMEN VELCIOM gO mores ay enaen 118 | Summer Savory.............-- cond OL
* ICuthine for Market..>.. ..0.. >. 1S] |ASweet Marjoram: 225 524. 101
Se UAE STN ISCCU, Ai csivelsltte s.cjoie's 118 Sweet Potatoes. sco: oa eee eee 142
oo IMC CICS Of oe, cco cee kee ch cee 118 Hy Growing the Plants.142
ONTOS or ood cocioecien oe ecae a oe aise 118 Bi oy Marketing oak a tines 143
$25" GROWN Sets orice aeoe-tiee =e 122 23 ae Soil, Preparation, and
6 Preparing for Market ... ...122 Pluto ..seeete 143
oc Ra No Seed, ee ae etis s see 123 te ce Warleties! Ofsacctecs <1 144
pee MAPICHIOSONe = . cacti cei ceucieee 124°) Bhymescn secs Sepa ReStrei es ccteteear ee 101
Pare] Cy coche canteen. cites 125 3t: | ROMaALOCNt he a ecm ene. Coes 144
oe RAISIN SECU ce aee coe dares 126 : Growing Plants. -o- jes... 144
tN ATICLIES poss seae es iceo ale 126 *s MaKe bine: 32. eis a orators 145
PALS St sz ates aitels setae ee aacter cess seoG Ss Raisinowseed. os. os... .145
Sf Soil and Preparation for. ..127 “S Soil, “Preparation, and
ee Warleties Ofic.. aam.ac tee 127 Planting Muara isge eee eee 144
Peas Ber Preiss a tide Shar aarcicteh sorercrs aera ee 128 ce Varicties of.. Prac) 5
WWiaiise tines) nce en ve. 129) I Doolatand their Uses. so..<cticere seen 28
esi Haisine: Geel... 0c. ..seehee 199 ) | hraseplantinG > «oo. ssidemetee eee 1g
** Soil and Preparation for...... FQB yy ie se ca.ns, es coal S wa tener Mace tre 146
* Sowing and Cultivation.......128 ‘Harvesting and Storing... .148
So PAV ULE LIES Olt scr s oie siscoats 13 Bons SIMIC TITUs, cre ere caters eee
Peppersas a. ee ce a ** Raising Seed............ .. 148
se SOW arhChitahs «ccc + ce. eck eck 131 * Soil and Preparation Be ee 146
tee SARAISIN OLS CCC on teen oe 131 ** Sowing and Cultivation... .147
te Variebiesopsn.: ce.es oc aac 131 Se) PSVATICTIESIOL occas cewon ee 148

Plowing Wallies scsi «it ... 88 | Vegetables and their Sceds......... 40

NEW AMERICAN FARM BOOK.

ORIGINALLY BY

hk. L.

ALLEN,

AUTHOR OF ‘‘ DISEASES OF DOMESTIC ANIMALS,’? AND FORMERLY =DITOR OF
THE ‘* AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST.”’

REVISED AND ENLARGED BY
Rew ES ALTE NN,

‘AUTHOR OF ‘“‘ AMERICAN CATTLE,” EDITOR OF THE ‘* AMERICAN SHORT-HORN
HERD BOOK,” ETC.

20 N ae ye SS:

IntTRODUCTION. — Tillage Husbandry
—Grazing — Weeding — Breeding —
Planting, etc.

CuHapPTeER I[.—Soils — Classification—
Description — Management — Pro-
perties.

CuaprTerR II.—Inorganic Manures—
Mineral — Stone — Earth — Phos-
phatic.

CHAPTER III.— Organic Manures —
Their Composition — Animal-—Ve-
getable.

CHapPTerR IV.—Irrigation and Drain-

ing.

CuaPrER V.—Mechanical Divisions
of Soils — Spading — Plowing—Im-
plements.

Cuaprer VI.—The Grasses—Clovers
— Meadows — Pastures — Compara-
tive Values of Grasses—Implements
for their Cultivation.

Cuartar VII.—Grain, and its Culti-
vation — Varieties — Growth—Har-
vesting.

Caarrer VIII.—Leguminous Plants
—Tiae Pea—Bean — English Field
Bean—Tare or Vetch—Cultivation
—Harvesting.

Cuaprer [X.—Roots and Esculents—
Varieties—Growth — Cultivation —
Securing the Crops—-Uses—Nutri-
tive Eyuivalents ot Different Kinds
of Forage.

CHaprer X.—Fruits—Apples—Cider
—Vinegar—Pears—Quinces—Plums
Peaches — Apricots — Nectarines —
Smaller Fruits—Planting—Cultiva-
tion—Gathering—Preserving.

Cuaprer XI.—Miscellaneous Objects
of Caltivation, aside from the Or-
dinary Farm Crops—Broom-corn—
Flax —Cotton—Hemp—Sugar Cane
Sorghun—Maple Sugar —Tobacco—
Indi zo—Madder—W ood—Sumach—
Ea — Mustard — Hops — Castor

ean,

CHAPTER XIT.—Aids and Objects of |

Agriculture — Rotation of Crops,
and their Effects—W eeds—Restora-

tion of Worn-out Soils—Fertilizing
Barren Lands—Utility of Birds—
Fences — Hedges — Farm Roads—
Shade Trees—Wood Lands—Time
of Cutting Timber— Tool;—-Agri-
cultural Education‘of the Farmer.

CHAPTER XIII.—Farm Buildings—~
House — Barn—Sheds — Cisterns —
Various othcr Outbuildings--Steam-
ing Apparatus.

CHaPpTeR XIV.—Domestic Animals
—Breeding—Anatomy—Respiration
—Consumption of Food.

CHAPTER XV.—Neat or Horned Cattle
Devons — Herefords—Ayreshires —
Galloways — Short - horns ~ Alder-
neys or Jerseys—Dutch or Holstein
—Management from Birth to Milk-
ing, Labor, or Slaughter.

CHAPTER XVI.- The Dairy—Milk—
Butter—Cheese—Different Kinds—~
Manner of Working.

CHAPTER XVII.— Sheep — Merino—
Saxon—South Down—The Long-
wooled Eieeie—-Cotswold:_Lincats
— Breeding — Management — Shep-
herd Dogs.

CHAPTER XVIII. — The Horse—De-
scription of Different Breeds—Their
Various Uses—Breeding—Manage-
ment.

CHAPTER XIX.—The Ass—Mnle—
Comparative Labor of Working
Animals.

CHAPTER XX. — Swine — Different
Breeds — Breeding—Rearing — Fat-
tening—Curing Pork and Hams.

CHAPTER XXI. — Poultry—Hens, or
Barn-door Fowls — Turkey — Peae
cock—Guinea Hen—Goose— Duck
—Honey Bees.

CHAPTER XXII. —Diseases of Anie
mals— What Authority Shall We
Adopt ? — Sheep — Swine — Treat-
ment and Breeding of Horses.

Cuyaprer XXIII.—Conclusion—Gene-
ral Remarks — The Farmer who
Lives by his Occupation—--The Ama.
teur Farmer—Sundry Useful Tables,

SENT POST-PAID, PRICE $2.50.

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,

751

Broadway, New-York.

The American Agriculturist

Farm, Garden, and Household.

Established in 1842,

The Best and Cheapest Agriculttral Jonrnal in the World,

TEeRms, which include postage pre-paid by the Publishers: $1.50 per annum,
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AMERIKANISCHER AGRICULTURIST.

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