MUDIES SEL | LIMITED 509, SIO & SIL, NEW OXFORD ST AND 20 & 21,MUSEUM STREET, LONDON. SINGLE SUBSCRIPTION One Gainea Per Annum Ne a a ee 5 ee a eee ieee nee ae ee a eee ak = ee U aE tz E | Z| 1 @ =| ey a ee et AND FOREST RAMBLES. = x ELD cst SS ih eth (Uh Hi i : | HN Ne i \\\\! : } SUNG vinta Kit ANN if | 1 { I ne NN Pai Ny } i | i) i} ii | am ri ips MA 17 \ MUL | ae had, inn 1a i) | i‘ St === 3S i bi aS M7 GA at a tps \ i Ww) AN\ CAMPING IN THE WILDERNESS, ‘ Ya\ 4/30 Field and Forest WITH NOTES AND OBSERVATIONS ON THE NATURAL HISTORY OF EASTERN CANADA. BY C- A. LEITH ADAMS, M.A.,, M.B., F.R.S., F.G:S., Staff Ss urgeon-Mazor. AUTHOR OF ‘“‘WANDERINGS OF A NATURALIST IN INDIA,” ‘‘NATURAL HISTORY AND ARCHAOLOGY OF THE NILE VALLEY AND MALTESE ISLANDS.” a Mo fos Cond | io | cele. THE RUBY-THROATED HUMMING-BIRD. LONDON: Flew Rv «Sie ernest. C o:, 65, CORNHILL, & 12, PATERNOSTER ROW- 1873. jens ee aa we y rights rese [All a E mb a is} EI f=| 3 nm = a Qy = 8 3 as eB 5 2 Get Ee I DEDICATE THIS VOLUME TO MY OLD COMRADES OF THE TWENTY-SECOND (CHESHIRE) REGIMENT, IN REMEMBRANCE OF OUR BROTHERHOOD, EXTENDING OVER TWO-AND-TWENTY YEARS, TIN VARIOUS QUARTERS OF THE GLOBE, PREP ACE HE following studies were conducted during leisure hours snatched from other and more pressing avoca- ° tions, and have been subject to the frequent interruptions which fall to the lot of the observer who is prevented from devoting continuous attention to hiswork. This may in some measure explain any want of cohesion and strict systematic arrangement that may be apparent in the method of treating the subjects dealt with, whilst my short residence in New - Brunswick disqualifies me from writing an exhaustive treatise on its natural history. Nevertheless I hope, as one of the first attempts towards elucidating the natural history of an im- portant and interesting portion of the Canadian Dominion, that my little volume may receive some favour, more especially on the other side of the Atlantic, where cultivators of this branch of learning have not, until of late years, been by any means numerous. Indeed, considering the inviting fields presented by the New World, it appears surprising how little has been accomplished in what naturalists call Field Studies ; for although almost every animal and many of the plants and rocks have been. named and described, very little is known of their geographical distribution, which has elsewhere been ascertained by compounding the labours of local and independent observers. The explanation of Vili Preface. this defect, at all events as regards North America, might be accounted for on the hitherto dominant principle that the sole aim of science should strictly be utility as applied to the physical wants and interests of mankind ; or, in other words, that whatever learning did not show the all-mighty Dollar in prospective, was at once to be condemned as futile ! This dogma, so apparent formerly, is now, however, rapidly vanishing, both in the United States and Canada. : Reverting to the circumstances under which the following observations were obtained, it might not be altogether out ~ of place were I to indite a few further remarks, mostly with the view of recommending the study of the natural sciences to individuals who may enjoy the leisure and taste for like pursuits. Yet I wish more particularly to address myself to the younger officers of the Army and Navy, and to none more pointedly than members of my own profession, whose previous studies render them especially peer for prose- cuting physical inquiries. Thus, a knowledge of human anatomy, physiology, chemistry, and botany, forming portions of a medical educa- tion, is eminently qualified to foster tastes for natural history researches ; whilst, on the other hand, the grand principles of the construction and functional agencies of lowlier organisms, mineralogy, and surface geology, would doubtless prove of great advantage in the elucidation of some obscure and hidden forms of disease, their causes, and remedies. The benefits, however, derivable under these heads are so self- evident that further comment seems to me unnecessary. In. fine, let me exhort Army and Navy officers generally to try physical studies as remedies for idleness during the many leisure hours spent in often less profitable undertakings, for Nature's field is broad and inviting, so that he who runs may read. To my confreres experienced in travel I would bring the matter home in this way—Think of the dreary, listless” life on the foreign station; the cankering exuud and trying Preface. 1X climate ; no books, no recreations, to turn to excepting the one unknown book of Nature spread out before him, which, however, is about the last he feels himself capable of perusing. He may know thoroughly the theory and practice of his immediate calling, but not having been taught to seek an acquaintance with any of the collateral sciences beyond his own, he looks on the teeming beauties of the external world with indifference, so that “A primrose by the river’s brim A yellow primrose is to him, And it is zothing more.” The topography of countries and physical geography of the sea are to him: sealed letters. He may be wandering in regions where no physical inquirer ever set foot, and be sur- -rounded on all sides by natural objects both inviting and instructive. But his eye had not been trained to an inquisi- tive appreciation of Nature, and it is just as much as he can do to take in a few salient points which, even by comparison with former experiences, fall dead on an understanding already dulled and surfeited by a profusion of much that is grand and beautiful in Creation. It is needless to remark what a panacea for idleness, and its often frightful train of evils, is the study of Nature, and in particular to persons so circumstanced. Iam not, however, advocating its cause on the strength of being only a method of keeping one’s hand out of a worse turn, but in the belief that the highest and most important object of all human science ought to be mental improvement (using the term in its most comprehen- sive sense), and that when pursued with a different aim its effects are often rather pernicious than beneficial. The study of Nature, in particular field-work, when properly cultivated, is assuredly adapted to invigorate discipline, and develop the mental powers, and thus supply materials for the grandest ultimate truths. It robs the mind of contracted and pigmy % Preface. ideas, and teaches us to take close as well as comprehensive views of objects, and argue from facts and not from notions, —a Temple of Science, to enter which in a suitable mood of thought will awaken the holiest-and most lofty conceptions, and where the mind of the worshipper, instead of being dwarfed as heretofore, will find its powers become colossal, and be expanded by the Genius of the place. “The reason,” says Aristotle, “why men do not sufficiently attend to facts is the want of experience, hence those accustomed to physical inquiries are more competent to lay down the principles which have an extensive application; whereas others, who have been accustomed to many assumptions without the confutation of reality, rarely lay down principles, because they take few things into consideration.”* So spoke the great Stagirite 2,200 years ago ; it cannot therefore be other- wise than gratifying to such of Dame Nature's disciples as have devoted their lives to a consideration of her rich and inexhaustible stores, to observe how her grand truths begin to be appreciated, and that too in academic halls where not long since it was considered an offence to associate natural science teachings with the Aumanzora. I shall now proceed with the thread of a narrative which began long years since, and has been continued on to Malta, from whence I now take it up. With persons who have devoted considerable attention to the physical phenomena of any region, there is engendered an amor loct almost like that for one’s native land. I can well remember the 24th of March, 1866, when, from the deck of the troopship “Simoom,” I watched the familiar cliffs of the above-mentioned island fading in the distant horizon, and how there came over me feelings of regret at bidding adieu to scenes which for the previous. six years had afforded me much mental instruction and pleasurable occupation. But having been heretotore a wandering student of nature, and . * “De-Gen. ef Gort. ego. Preface. XI accustomed to sudden interruptions before my programme was completed, I had no alternative but to submit to the decrees of fortune, and break fresh ground where she chose to place me. Our vessel reached Gibraltar in the course of a few days, when I enjoyed a hurried visit to the famous bone- caves of the Rock. Among members of the public services, civil, naval, and military, whose avocations call them fre- quently, and at very short notice and considerable risks, to sojourn in foreign and often inhospitable lands, there is a small class who, without any professed knowledge of science, collect stores of natural objects, which they freely deposit in home museums or hand over to the cabinet naturalist for description. Such an example, and one of the most pains- taking and indefatigable, was the late Captain Brome. This enterprising cave explorer, by means of the military prisoners under his command, conducted a series of excavations which eventuated in very important discoveries in connection with the bygone history of the Rock, during periods far anterior to any written records, but possibly coeval with the presence of man on this portion of Spain, when there was a direct land communication between the two continents. These researches would therefore be of intense interest to me, in connection with similar phenomena I had been investigating in the little insular group just left; inasmuch as, when the two are compounded, they furnish very cogent proofs of © the great physical changes which the entire basin of the Mediterranean has undergone during epochs no doubt far back in the ordinary computation of time, but of modern date in the chronology of the geologist. Nineteen days after leaving Gibraltar we entered the Bay of Fundy, and shortly afterwards proceeded to New Brunswick, where the following notes were taken. These I will now lay before the reader, much in the same form as I have already attempted to describe the natural objects of other lands. Here I must express my obligations to those gentlemen X11 Preface. who have furnished me with valued information. To the late ‘ Governor, the Honourable Sir Arthur Hamilton Gordon, G.C.M.G., my thanks are due for several interesting facts in connection with the local natural history, besides what will be referred to in the sequel. I am also indebted to my friend Dr. Jack, LL.D., Principal of the University of New — Brunswick, for many important points in connection with the physical geography of the region; and to Mr, Hannay, for data referring to the early colonization of the Province and the history of the aborigines. My best thanks are owing to Mr. Pope, of Prince Edward Island, for several observations on the local natural history, as well as a very interesting collection of ancient stone implements found by him in the island. Lastly, I am indebted to the master-hand of miy distin- guished friend J. Gould, F.R.S., for the appropriate vignette on the title-page, and also to my esteemed young friend R. De Courcy Laffan, Esq., for valued aid. To Mr.G. Taylor, photographic artist, Fredericton, I am under obligations for the care and trouble bestowed by him | in taking photographs of several of the natural objects in the work, LONDON, Fanuary, 1873. CON, EN: E'S: PARE. CHAPTER fF. - PAGE New Brunswick: General Sketch of its Resources, Physical Aspect, Climate, and Natural Products—Arrival at St. John— Local Politics — River Scenery — Fredericton—Natives, their Past and Present—Stone Age, Sculptures, Ancient Kitchen Middens—Disappearance of certain Animals during the His- torical Period - - - - - - 4 - - I CrrAPT ER Ir Backwoods Men-——Influence of the Climate on the Anglo-Saxon —Modes of Living—Thoughts on Emigration—French Settlers of Tracadie, Leprosy—Charms of Forest Life— Native and European Myths—The Puma, Lynx, Wild Cat—Sable and its varieties—Mink, Weasel—Fisher Cat, Skunk, and Otter—In- crease of the Wild Quadrupeds of Nova Scotia—On Species Making—Bear—Influence of Forest Reclamation on the Habits of Animals—Fox and its Varieties—Albinism and Melanism - 40 CHAPTER III. Aspect of the Forest after a Snow-storm—Tracks of Wild Animals on the Snow—Hare; its changes of Pile—Adaptation of the Feet of Wild Animals for Snow Travelling—Feet of Moose and ‘Caribou compared—Their Habits—Extermination—Moose and Irish Elk compared—On the Interment of Fossil Deer— Enormous Horns of Moose—Modes of Hunting the Native Deer -——Origin of Moss Swamps and Caribou Barrens—The Pitcher X1V The Contents. Plant—Beaver ; its Habits and Extermination— Musk Rat— Porcupine, small Murida—Bats—Squirrels— Melanism—F lying Squirrels—Effects of the Climate on European Brown Rat and Mouse - - - - 2 : = . = - -; CHAPTER IV. Lumberer’s Camp Life and Hospitality—Forest Fires—Bar- barous Mode of Hunting the Moose—Moose Yard—Moose Hunt — Difficulties of Forest Travelling — Natural Decay of Forest Trees—Lost in the Wilderness - - : : 2 PARE Se BIRDS: AND REPTILES. ‘CHAPTER V- Rapacious Birds—Bald-headed Eagles stooping on Fish—Similitude between Birds of Boreal America, Asia, and Europe—Hawks, Owls—Effects of Climate and Civilization on certain Rapacious Birds—Numerical Estimate of the Migratory and Resident Birds—Effects of Cold and Climate on the inward and outward Economies of Animals and Plants—Results of Climate on certain Indigenous and Foreign Animals and Trees—Pines split by Frost—A Silver Frost—Climate affecting Fruits—Ox-eye Daisy—Crows and Jays—Canada Jay assuming the Habits of the Kingfisher—The Thrushes—Robin and his Habits—Young Birds Feeding their Companions—Songs of American Thrushes —Catbird, or Carolina Mocking-bird ; its modes of Mimicking Sounds—Woodpeckers prospecting rotting Pine Trunks—The Log-cock—Differences in dimension of Species from different Latitudes and Longitudes—Birds laying indefinite numbers of Pgs Le ee CHAPTER VI. Habits and Haunts of the Ruby-throated Humming-bird— Migratory Movements of Warblers—Swallows and their Migrations— Influence of Forest Clearing on the Habits of Birds—Birds abandoning their Young at the Migratory Season—Waxwings : their Love Gambols—Departure and Arrival of the Crow Black- bird—Loves and Courtships of Birds’ - - - : ~ PAGE - 78 IOI Livy 144 Contents. XV CHAPTER, VIL : PAGE Discomforts of Sleighing during Thaws—Effects of unusually Cold Seasons on Winter Migratory Birds—Winter-breeding Birds— Crossbills and their Varieties of Plumage—Possible Causes of the Crossing of the Mandibles and bending of the Beaks of certain Birds—Deformed Beaks of Birds—Habits and Modes of Nesting of the White-winged Crossbill—The Pine Bullfinch— Redpoll—Snow Bunting—Snow Bird—Familiarity of Forest- loving Birds—Partridges and their unsuspicious Ways— Partridge Shooting—Dogs trained to Point at Partridges in Trees. - - - - - - - = - - a Sis CHAR TiS: VIL: Directions and Causes of the Migrations of the Birds of Boreal America, and Laws bearing on Variation of Species—Ducks Building in Trees—Abnormal Habits of Animals—Celibacy among Birds — Strange Habits of the Great Northern Diver— Attachment to its Young—A Loon Hunt—Reptiles—Turtles, Snakes—Frogs—Tritons. PART III. Per Seen lS. CHAPTER@ LX, Salmon ; its Decadence—Object of my Excursion to the Schoodic Lakes—Forest Scenery—Incidents of Travel—Maine and its Liquor Laws—Lewey’s and Long Lakes—Silvery Salmon Trout —Fly Pest—Trout Fishing—Description of the Silvery Salmon Trout—Grand Lake ; its Scenery—Glacial Erosion—Parasites in Fishes—Effects of Light on Coloration of Fishes—Sea Trouts of Europe and America - - - - - - +" ‘208 CHAPTERGX&: The Brook Trout of North America, and its Varieties—Trout Fishing, and Game Qualities of the Brook Trout—Lake Trouts of Boreal America—The Mackinau Salmon or Namaycush, or Great Trout of the Lakes—The Siscowet—The Togue—Distri- bution, Haunts, and Distinctions of the Species—Lake Trout XVI oe: Contents. Fishing — Smelt of North America—Capelin—White Fishes— Shads—Cusk—Alewive—Striped Bass Fishing—Perches and Lake Bass—Sturgeon Fisheries—Lamprey—Cat Fish—Eels— American Hake—Marine Fishes - - ~ - : - ul] PART AW. GEO CY. CHAPTER XI. PAGE 229 Geology—Rocks and Soils—Primary Rocks—Interment of recent ~ Fishes in Strata—Coal Measures—Physical Features of the Coal Beds—Episode of Forest Life—New Red Sandstone— Glacial Phenomena, past and present—Table of Rock For- mations, with their valuable Minerals — - - - Shas CHAPTER Sa, The Naturalist’s Calendar, showing the Changes of Climate, the Arrivals and Departures of Migratory Birds, Fishes, etc. - APPENDIX. Quadrupeds - - : - - E 2 i : : List of the Birds of New Brunswick > z " A Ss : Reptiles - . - - - = = 4 : : ss Amphibians - - - - 4 of, rage E : ‘ i Climate s 3 4 E : - 2 A : Meteorological Observations - - - : ts ae Table of Monthly and Seasonal Means of Temperature, etc. - Consanguinity of Tracadie Lepers - - - - : Z 261 De 295 296 393: 393 397 308 £320 321 WIVE (jane) beh Sepa fine) BEAVER —. MOOSE & REINDEER ‘Gal. Seams. Bonne y Gafacmon SILVERY SALMON Yel jour * rocue “6 Ancient Indian Kitchen-middens. <<«« Dorections of Glacial, Scorts *; Ths figures sha the right bor the Seaitevel accorded: 3 Henry S King & Co 66 Cornhill, London. CHAPTER. I. New Brunswick: General Sketch of its Resources, Physical Aspect, Climate, and Natural Products—Arrival at St. John—Local Politics _ —River Scenery—Fredericton—Natives, their Past and Present— Stone Age, Sculptures, Ancient Kitchen Middens—Disappearance of certain Animals during the Historical Period. HERE is New Brunswick? asked a young friend when the order arrived at Malta directing our regiment to - proceed to this colony. I confess to having had a rather vague notion of its whereabouts on the occasion in question, and I dare say there may be some of my readers similarly affected. At all events, my interrogator and myself were soon informed, inasmuch as, fetching the fine old Imperial Atlas presented to the corps by the late Lord Gough when he commanded the regiment, we traced out the limits of New Brunswick as follows: It lies between Lat. 45° and 48° 5’ W., Long. 63° 50° and 67°53’ N. It is separated from Lower Canada (now Quebec) by the River Restigouche and Bay of Chaleur on the north, and is bounded on the east by the Gulf of the St. Lawrence ; west, by the State of Maine ; and south, by Nova Scotia and Bay of Fundy. As compared with its sister provinces—to wit, Nova B > Field and Forest Rambles. Scotia, Quebec and Ontario, including Prince Edward’s Island, New Brunswick is comparatively a wilderness region ; indeed, with the exception of the southern portion, little has yet been done towards reclaiming the vast forests about the sources of the Upper St. John River,* and where the Miramichi and Restigouche take their rise. These embrace districts pre- senting all the features of the primitive forests of other por- tions of the continent; and, although for the most part thinned by the axe of the woodman, they continue still to maintain their ancient denizens, in spite of the trapper and hunter. The moose, woodland reindeer, bear, beaver, sable, mink, etc., although greatly reduced and decreasing in numbers as com- pared with former years, are not yet on the verge of extinction; and while the excessive waste and destruction by man of the fishes in the lakes and running waters have greatly reduced their numbers, still, notwithstanding the shutting off of migra- tory species by means of mill-dams and other artificial barriers, and the illicit use of the spear and net, vast shoals of salmon, white fishes, smelts, shad, etc., continue to frequent a few of their ancient haunts, and require only a safe passage through obstructions, and some consideration on the part of the settlers, to increase and multiply in many inland waters from which they had been expelled. New Brunswick therefore embraces three degrees of lati- tude, and is upwards of 200 miles in breadth, and, although the least populated of the four grand provinces composing the Dominion of Canada, is watered by many large rivers, besides — noble lakes, all of which now present a remarkable contrast, as regards the numbers of the fishes, with the boundless waters washing its shores. So much is this the case, that, turning to the narratives of the early voyagers and settlers, we find that incredible quantities of fishes frequented localities * The St. John is 450 miles in length, and navigable more or less to its sources, with the exception of the Grand Falls, distant 225 miles from the ocean ; the falls are about 60 feet in height. Destruction of Food Fishes. 3 where not one individual now exists; and, on referring to dates, it will be observed that less than a century has sufficed to bring about this extinction. _ I shall frequently refer to the rapid extermination of many animals through human agency, and to the destructive propensity which characterizes the settlers of the present day—a wanton love of destruction, in many instances similar to that of the Indian, as if a spice of the old savage nature still lurked in them also. No doubt the impru- dent use of the spear and net has been the chief cause of the decrease in inland fisheries, but the most effectual modes of extermination have been through mill-dams, and pollution of rivers and their bottoms. ‘ On these points all inquirers are unanimous, whilst it is the belief of many that, by proper surveillance, introduction of fish-ways, and prohibition of nuisances, the salmon will return to his ancient haunts. I am doubtful, however, if this will be a sovereign remedy. I doubt very much whether a salmon will care to go up streams paved several feet deep with decomposing sawdust and rubbish, to find a by no means tempting entrance to the dam, and when that is surmounted another or another expanse of the same bottom before he gains clear water. Surely, small blame to him should he be somewhat: punctilious under such circumstances, more: especi- ally in rivers choked up by rubbish and lumber for long distances above their debouchures. There are few rivers better adapted for migratory fishes than the St. John. From its mouth to the Grand Falls, there drain into it no less than fourteen large influents, once the favourite haunts of salmon, shad, gaspereau, etc. ; and even now, with all the poaching and obstructions, it is wonderful that any fishes attempt to run up: indeed, almost every second salmon or grilse caught by the rod either presents spear wounds, or is maimed in some manner by standing nets. Not long since many hundreds of salmon were speared on the spawning-beds of the Miramichi River, in order to procure ova for transmission B 2 4 field and Forest Rambles. to the United States! Fortunately, the St. John is too broad to | be effectually netted ; so that, if its influents were protected, there would not be much difficulty in re-stocking them. The waves of the Atlantic impinge on shores deeply indented by bays, creeks, fiords, and river estuaries, up which the majestic tidal wave rushes for miles, and mingles with fresh. water far above the usual limits observed in European rivers So enormous is the pressure on the influent waters of the St. John, that a spring tide raises the river eight inches at the capital, eighty-two miles from its mouth. Moreover, the vertical rise in some of the most distant reaches of the Bay of Fundy attains the unexampled height of sixty to seventy feet, or even more. Such conditions, therefore, must doubtless favour the migrations of the finny tribes. The attractions of the lakes, rivers, and forests, the unpa- ralleled beauty of the foliage in autumn, the glorious sunsets, and the sombre and impressive grandeur of the forest solitudes, are all full of art studies, whilst the disciples of Nimrod and good old Isaak Walton may, by proper selection of season and locality, indulge their tastes to the fullest extent. The country is exceedingly flat, the highest point scarcely exceeding 3,000 feet above the level of the sea.* The climate, although far more severe and trying as et extremes of cold and heat than that of Great Britain, is, with the usual. precautions, well adapted to the constitution of the Northman. Of course the coast region enjoys milder seasons than the central and northern portions. , The Newfoundland fogs cool the summer heat, and the extremes of winter are tempered by southern winds and oceanic currents,—neither of which, however, extend their influences beyond short distances . inland. Indeed, so marked are the differences between the climates of the interior parts compared with the coast region, * Bald Mountain, near the sources of the Nepsiguit and Tobique rivers, is in one of the wildest and least explored regions of the province. The height of this mountain has not been carefully measured, but possibly it is not less than 2,500 feet above the sea. Climate and Seasonal Conditions. 5 that the maxima of ten degrees of heat and twenty-one degrees of cold obtain in the former over the climate of the seaboard. Among the first impressions of Canadian scenery, few are more striking than the freezing, snowing over, and breaking up of the ice on the great rivers and lakes. The short-lived but hot summer is succeeded by the sharp biting frosts of autumn, and a long and rigorous winter, occupying more than half the year. There is no spring worthy of the name ; for the rush from winter hoar to refulgent summer is so rapid that the leaf buds and opens out in the course of two days. It is the absence of that gradual transition from one extreme of temperature to another that arrests the attention of the fresh arrival, as compared with the climate of England. Towards the end of October, soon after the hard-wood forests have cast off their gorgeous autumnal attire, and those beautifully coloured leaves that hang so gracefully and decorate so grandly many a spreading maple, now lie stiff and faded on. the soil; when the snipe and woodcock have left the alder swamp, and with all the summer birds of passage are on their way to Florida and the south, and the time has arrived when the hare and weasel are turning grey ; then it is we look forward to the severe frosts that are to close up the navigation and cause the steamboats to beat a hasty retreat seaward. First, there forms some shore ice along the banks, then portions float downwards, and, provided a north-wester is blowing, these soon coalesce and run in fields, gliding silently onwards. The pas- senger steamboats which plied daily during the summer months are in readiness for immediate departure, and probably before two days they have gone, for the sheets of ice begin to join, con- solidate, get packed, and forced under and above one another, so that there is no knowing how soon the river may be frozen over completely. Sometimes without any premonitory appear- ances there is an equal freezing all over, and the surface becomes like a mirror in a single night; but oftener, from the pressure of the floes, the surface becomes very rough and un- 6 Field and Forest Ranbles. even. As the words pass from mouth to mouth, “ The river has — closed!” idlers stroll toward the bank to witness adventurers. with their long poles picking their way from hummock to hummock, until at length they gain the shore. Next day it is perfectly safe ; skaters are seen wherever the ice is unbroken, and horses‘and sleighs cross. The river is now hermetically sealed for the next five months, unless at what are called “air- holes,” where several blocks jammed together cause an eddy which does not freeze up for some weeks afterwards. The latter is one of the dangers in skating and travelling on the rivers, until the safe portions have been indicated by sticking pine saplings along the routes. Should an unsuspecting traveller fall into one of these open air cavities, he will most assuredly be carried under the ice if the current is at all strong, his only chance, in the absence of assistance, being to swim against the current. One afternoon I saw a skater plump into one of these dangerous places, when suddenly another, observing the accident, pulled off his coat, and as he skated past the man in the water, tossed it towards him, who caught the sleeve, and was dragged out by the impetus wherewith the other was going: The feat was done so cleverly that I asked the performer if he had been accustomed to save persons in that way, and he told me that he had pulled many out of air-holes, and that provided one is a good skater and can get near enough to the individual, there is no more ready and efficacious method, On another occasion I observed a skater fail, when another pulled off his coat and dashed toward the drowning man, who caught it, and was lying on the ice in a shorter time than I take to write down the fact. . The best skating takes place immediately after the freezing-over, Sometimes when the ice is glare and smooth, a good skater can in a few hours so dowr from Fredericton, the capital, to St. John, over eighty miles. The climate inland is dry, cold, and bracing, with a clear atmosphere and most exhilarating, so that when well wrapped up one abso- lutely does not feel a temperature many degrees under zero ~ Winter Aspect of the Rivers. 7 so much as a few degrees under freezing in a damp, raw atmosphere. I have often thought what a change to the fishes this freezing over of the rivers must be. In all but total dark- ness for months, first dimly supplied through their ice roofs, then a heavy fall of snow, and it is eternal night to them until the breaking up. in April. About the middle of November skating is brought to a sudden termination by snow filling up all the rough, uneven surfaces of the rivers, which are now converted into unbroken plains, with the mighty waters flowing on silently beneath. All now is winter-like; the sleighs glide along to the music of many a merry bell; every one is well muffled up, for the severest frost takes place before Christmas. The wood-cutter has gone to fell trees, a solemn silence, reigns in the forest, save the cracking of the branches at night from cold, which now and then attains to 37° below zero of Fahrenheit. We take long walks on snow shoes,—the sporting community in particular, in order to get themselves into working order for the reindeer and moose hunting. Looking along the bosom of the St. John, all is one vast mantle of snow, save a black spot here and there representing a man fishing for cusk through a hole in the ice, or a dead bullock or horse dragged to the surface to await the breaking-up in spring. February and March bring more and more snow, which is piled up in great masses along the streets above the pavements,—some three to four feet on an average covering the country, and quadruple that thickness where it has drifted; then there is no travelling save by sleighs and snow shoes. At length, towards the end of March, the struggle between the sun and the cold begins to show signs of terminating in favour of the former, for the day is lengthening out, and although there is hard frost at night, the heat softens the sur- face by midday. The migratory thrush, better known as “Robin,” comes in about this time, and the snow bird and Penn- sylvanian sparrow utter their welcome measures on fence and 8 Field and Forest Rambles. tree ; and the crow draws nearer to man. There is skating and trabogging in the early part of the day. The latter requires me to state that this amusement is performed by means of small sleighs with broad polished runners, on which two or more are seated. When on some beaten path, or where the surface snow has become so hard and glazed as to bear a heavy man, then with feet or sticks we guide the sleigh as it flies down the slope, the only drawback being the trouble of pulling it up. Again, these pleasant social gatherings break the monotony of the short, dull winter’s day, and accordingly old as well as young often take delight in the harmless and healthy pastime in spite of many a mishap of a very ludicrous nature, such as when some unapt steersman lands his fair burden in a snow wreath, or dives thereinto head-foremost, so that the feet only are left visible above the surface. } April showers begin to tell on the river, and balmy south- easters, like the Fohen of the Alps, eat away the snow which vanishes before our eyes. It is getting unsafe to cross the river, and the ice is giving way round the margins, and is rising in the centre so that the water on the surface runs off by the sides. We hear of the gradual opening up of the navigation from the mouth upwards, and of large fields having broken up and run out. Still we can cross the river with a pole, but no horse is safe. At last it is only after a frosty night that we can venture over, and then the raftsman, accustomed to run from log to log, is about the only one brave enough to venture across. Sometimes when he is in mid-river the whole mass begins to move, and he has a narrow escape. Now comes the grand jizale—the enormous pressure from above ~ piles vast sheets pell-mell on each other, or sends tons upon tons of solid ice (blocks often averaging twelve to twenty-four inches in thickness) against the bank, tearing up soil, and pushing everything before them. Occasionally an island in mid-river, formed of alluvium, and famous for its splendid crops of hay, gets completely covered — Breaking-up of the Lee in Spring. 9 with stones pushed up~by stranded icebergs. It is not the detached blocks that do the harm so much as large fields of ice; these come along at the rate of about three miles and a half an hour, with an enormous momentum— so much so, that in one instance a wooden house, built on a jetty on the -bank, had its upper story completely carried away by the advancing icebergs, which absolutely cut the building in two just as the inmates were making their escape. The ice, covered with stones, logs, and rubbish, crushing and seething in huge hummocks, forms a perfect picture of chaos. I have thought in the pell-mell arrangement that there is some similitude between the river then and the rugged surface of a lava field broken up and fissured.* The inhabitants on the banks of the St. John look forward to this breaking’ up with interest, less now, however, since the railway has made them independent of water carriage ; still, at all times, it effectually dispelled the dull monotony of the long winter. At length the cry that the river is going sends the anxious to gaze on the remarkable scene. “It-has started!’ exclaims one, and just as the already shattered mass has commenced to move, there is a jam somewhere, above or below, that causes the shore ice to rise up, and hummock after hummock standing on edge, scores and rubs the banks; now ploughing up the soil, then impinging so heavily on the solid pier made of huge pine trunks, that it absolutely knocks a hole through them as one would push his finger through pie-crust. The damming back caused by the floes riding over and submerging each other, often becomes a serious matter with the inhabitants located in the intervales or river valley along its banks, thus causing the water to rise and flood the surface to a dangerous extent, as I will show in the sequel in the case of the capital, when the banking back raised the waters so high that the town was inundated. * See page 277. 10 Field and Forest Rambles. Reference will also be made to the fertility of the surfaces annually overflowed by the river. These islands and river valley flats produce luxuriant hay crops, which are stacked in barns placed on more elevated points, but which, however, during the breaking up of the ice in spring, are some- times carried off bodily, and go to form the heterogeneous flotsam and débris observable on such occasions, drifting pell- mell with the ice floes. During one such occurrence a large shed-full of hay was seen passing Fredericton perched on the shattered tops of a huge ice island,* when an adventurous person, springing from berg to berg, managed to attach a rope to the structure, which was eventually brought ashore. It takes two or three days before the chief body of ice has run seaward, whilst masses continue piled up along the banks for a few weeks. By the end of April, the loud scream of the steamer’s whistle attracts every one to the landing, and, although not a blade of grass has yet sprung, and not a bud opened out, yet with all the mud and mire consequent on the thawing, we are delighted to welcome back this harbinger of civilization, and to look forward to six months of something like what we had been accustomed to in old England. Looking at the above phenomena as exponents of periods unrecorded, I must say they are of intense value to the geologist, for granting they may be feeble in force, still, as I will attempt to point out in the conclusion, they have important bearings, which he will, always do well to study when attempting an interpretation of far-back epochs in the earth’s history. One of the most interesting and suggestive subjects in connection with the natural history of this region, is that referring to the early condition of the aborigines, and the * The St. John, for reasons stated, cannot, of course, be a rapid river. - During the inundations, it has been roughly computed, by Dr. Jack, LL.D., Principal of the University of New Brunswick, to flow at the rate of about five miles an hour; but subsequently, and when frozen ~ over, the velocity is very much less. - Natural Flistory Capabelities of the Region. II causes which have brought about the marked deterioration of race since the advent of the whites; nor are the results of civilization and reclamation of the primeval forest, on the lower forms of life, much less worthy of attention. The migrations of the birds, their numerical prevalence as com- pared with former years and other lands, together with the local Reptology, Ichthyology, etc. also furnish new and instructive data. The Botanical productions offer a wide and very interesting field, and have not hitherto, as a whole, been accurately tabulated. The Geology is extremely inviting, and affords materials of great scientific and economic value. Such are the main features of the country to which reference will be ' made in the following pages. A strange enchantment creeps over the traveller—more especially should he possess an inquisitive mind—when, transplanted to a new country, he finds himself surrounded by a diversity of natural objects; some perfect strangers, others similar, or so closely allied to what he had seen before, that they at once recall associations of far-distant countries. But first impressions being hastily formed, are very often anything but correct; nevertheless they create materials for pleasant after-reflections. I cannot, for example, forget my first impressions of tropical scenery as displayed in the luxuriance and verdure of the Seychelle Islands, nor of the plains of Hindoostan from the tops of the western Ghauts, the colossal grandeur of the Himalayas—to wit, my first glimpses of the Vale of Cashmere, a bird’s-eye view of a Tartar steppe, Egypt from the Pyramids, the Nubian Desert, Switzerland, and the Alpine tops and valleys from the Righi, Vesuvius, etc.; all of which, in spite of years, remain still so indelibly im- pressed on my memory as to appear but visions of yesterday. But the enjoyment derived from a contemplation of Nature is oftener better appreciated by reflection afterwards than at the time. Perhaps the reason may be, to some extent, that we are . ee ¥ = > = if Pt 12 Field and Forest Rambles. too busy in studying the attractions of objects to turn towards a general meditation on the pleasure in connection with the scenery, climate, and incidents of travel. All these come back in the form of agreeable recollections subsequently, especially if conjured up under circumstances likely to make them more appreciated. Thus I often recall very pleasurable remembrances of foreign lands merely by comparison with less agreeable scenes at home, and particularly when contrasted with dismal London fogs and uninviting landscapes. I must acknowledge, however, that it was an extremely bitter April day when our vessel cast anchor in the harbour of St. John, New Brunswick. The snow had scarcely disappeared, and the noble river, flooded by up-country thaws, was pouring its gelid waters into the Bay of Fundy, whilst the great tidal wave, compressed on either side, was rapidly rising to levels far above what are seen elsewhere ; at all events as compared with the shores of the Mediterranean which we had lately left... — Recounting first impressions, I may briefly, ez passant, jot down the chief novelties that greeted us on the above occa- sion; to wit, the muddy streets and wooden side pavements, which give one an idea of walking over a log bridge; the busy, bustling inhabitants and their wharfs crowded by piles of timber ready for shipment. Naturally, there was always - a regular exodus from the city of the inquisitive to see new comers, which they were in the habit of repeating weekly on the occasion of the advent of the steamboats from the States, just like the squireen who comes down from the domain to see the coach come in; and why not? But withal these were troubled times as compared with ordinary occasions, for can- nons were bristling on the heights of Carleton opposite, and the St. John Militia were out. In fact, the good folks on shore were in a ferment, for there was a threatened Fenian invasion, which we had been ordered on from Malta to assist inrepelling. At all events the mandate came to us to “Clear decks!” “Bank fires, and prepare to depart at the shortest Yes first Impressions of New Brunswick. 13 notice!” So sending the non-combatants on shore, we hung about in harbour during the next ten days, expecting either to sail, or what was, I suspect, more congenial to the tastes of some of us—viz., an order to disembark and make ourselves comfortable on the mainland. These were anxious days, however, to many, but possibly far less serious than rumour stated ; at all events, to us, they were uncommonly uncomfortable, seeing that a cold north wind blew down river, and often a chopping sea prevented the inquisitive from landing to view the lions of the place, thus driving us to become victims of that horrid tedium and “that awful yawn which sleep cannot abate.” Being tied to the ship, we felt the restraint the more that it was forced, whilst diversities of opinion as to the crisis seemed to indicate that the step was unnecessary, some politicians who came on board asserting that the whole affair was a hoax got up by our American cousins to bother John Bull on account of the precious Alabama. Others looked with earnest faces at our red coats, and remarked that “Colonel Harding and his fine fellows had not come an hour sooner than wanted”! At length the rigour of martial law slackened, and availing myself of the opportu- nity, I proceeded on shore for the purpose of examining a remarkable fragment of Old Red Sandstone which fringes this portion of the southern coast, and overlies a series of strata supposed to belong to the same age as those of Ontario, in which Sir William Logan discovered the oldest known fossil, named the Hozoon Canadense.* As our captain’s gig dropped astern of the transport “Simoon,” and was being rowed towards Carleton, numbers of fishing boats were seen dragging nets heavily laden with the well-known American shad named the “Alewive,” which at this season crowds the harbour before proceeding up the rivers for spawning purposes ; indeed so burdened were several of the nets that the wonder was how * See Dawson, Quart. Four. Geol. Soc. London, vol. xxi., p. 51; and Carpenter, ditto, p. 59. 14 Field and Forest Rambles. the meshes held together.* I thought of the poor Maltese fisherman who so often slaves all day and catches little, and of the adventurous natives of old Albion, who frequently go forth on the same’ errand never to return, while here among crowded steamboats and heavily-laden wood vessels, the hardy New Brunswicker encloses such great multitudes of fishes that his net fills the boats until they wellnigh sink. The interesting locality famous for the beautiful specimens of fossil plants met with in the above-mentioned Old Red Sandstone beds is fully a mile distant from Carleton. The “Fern Ledges,” as they are familiarly called, comprehend shelves of shale covered by seaweed, which the geologist must remove before cleaving the rock, when he will disclose most beautiful and perfect impressions of ferns and numerous other cryptogamic plants, many of which have been described by Mr. Hart and Dr. Dawson,t and doubtless more remain \ for the assiduous paleontologist. One of the chief characteristics of New Brunswick scenery is its flatness,—the traveller’s difficulty being to attain an elevation wherefrom a prospect can be obtained. Excepting the ridges and low hills in the neighbourhood of the city of St. John, and the higher lands in the northern part of the province, it is rare to meet with an eminence command- ing anything like an extensive view. To him, therefore, who has sojourned on the Continent of Europe, there will come an occasional feeling of disappointment—such as that which strikes the tourist on the Nile, when, in the absence of monuments of antiquity, he is continually surrounded by * “The annual catch of this shad in the harbour of St. John varies from 12,000 to 16,000 barrels,-and sometimes reaches 20,000 barrels.” This represents an enormous weight of fishes, seeing that a barrel is cal- culated to contain about 1961b. of flour. Of course a smaller figure - would be required for fish, unless when packed herring- fashion.—See Perley’s Catalogue, p. 208. x Hart, Appendix A., p. 131, Bailey’s Report, and Dawson, Acad, Geol., . 514; and Four., Geol. Soc. London, vol. xvii. p. 296, 1862. New Brunswick. Scenery. 15 mud banks, and patches of cultivation, or the eternal same- ness of the desert. This, however, should not perplex the student of nature. The St. John derived its name from the early voyagers, but the circumstances under which it was so designated are not altogether clear.* To the natives it was known by the name Wollastook, or Awolostook, which signifies “big river.” It is indeed a grand and noble river, for, independent of its navigability, there is an annual inundation like that of the Nile, at the spring freshets, when the low or carse lands become flooded, and settlements insulated, so that when the retrocession takes place, irrespective of irrigation, there has been a deposit of fertilizing mud thrown down, which serves to nourish the grass, and produce remunerative hay crops, especially on the islands. It takes several hours to steam up- river, and there are many turnings and twistings which open up some varieties of woodland scenery. Near Fredericton are “the narrows,’ a sudden bend in the river's course to be particularly referred to in. the sequel; then the spire of» the handsome cathedral comes in view ; and finally a pretty * Mr. Hind writes: “One of the earliest historical notices of the River St. John dates from 1598, when it was called ‘ Riviere de la Grande Baie, or ‘ La Baie Francaise,’ as the Bay of Fundy was formerly designated. This occurs in the letters patent confirming the appointment of the Sieur de la Roche, Lieutenant-General au Canada, Hochelaga, Terre-Neuve, Labrador, Riviere de la Grande Baie (St. John in the Bay of Fundy), Norembegue (the present State of Maine), et les terres adja- centes.—(L’Escarbot.) In the admirable Report by the late Dr. Robb on the Agriculture of the Province, reference is made to the discovery of the St. John by ‘Champlain, on St. John’s Day, in the year 1604;’ and in Monro’s New Brunswick there is a quotation from Haliburton’s Nova Scotia, in which the name St. John is stated to have been given to it because it was discovered on the 24th of June, the day of. the Festival of St. John the Baptist. Mr. Munro says also that this noble river was discovered by Dee Monts. It is clear from L’Escarbot, that the river was known previously to 1598. But in 1604 Sieur de Monts visited La Riviere de la Grande Baie, and changed its name to the St. Jean.”— Report on Geology of New Brunswick, page 28, — 16 field and forest Rambles. little country town surrounded by trees, and spread out on a broad alluvial flat, which, like a rounded promontory, is washed in front and two sides by the St. John. | In honour of the House of Brunswick, Fredericton has its Queen, King, Brunswick, George, and Charlotte streets. As at St. John, wood houses and wood pavements predominate ; indeed everything is timber, and its wharfs groan with piles of the same material; altogether a thriving, bustling little town, now brought in direct communication with the sea- port by a railway which is being extended further north- wards. Although dwarfed as regards size by the city just named, still, from position and antiquity, Fredericton claims to be the capital, although shorn of the little grandeur of the older days of irresponsible governments, when the mother country was teaching her colonies how to walk. But now that the infantile stage, as we may so designate the past, has given place to adolescence and a promising manhood, what between railways, and other latter-day features of the industry and enterprise of this hardy people, there is to all appearances a bright future for little Fredericton. The city of Frederick (how the “k” has got out of the modern ortho- graphy I cannot say) was founded by the early settlers at this point, chiefly because the situation was central, and about the highest navigable station for vessels.* However, steamers of small draught, with paddle-wheel astern, find their way up even to the Grand Falls, which are 125 miles above Fredericton. At the latter the river is about three-quarters of a mile in breadth. Among the institutions of the past régzme, there is still an Upper and Lower House of Assembly, and. a Governor, although the province is but an integral portion of the Great Dominion, and by way of comparison has not half the demand for this paraphernalia of government as, for example, either Scotland or Ireland ; but perhaps it is as well to let the present generation live out their old associations. I * Fredericton, as the crow flies, is about sixty miles inland. University of New Brunswick. 17 must hot, however, in these very cursory remarks, omit notice of the University of New Brunswick. The planting of a tree of knowledge in this wild wilderness, dates far back in the Anglo-Saxon occupation of the land, and although originally established on models of the old country, it has fought a hard battle for many years. How indeed could any one expect sons of the reclaimers of the primeval forest to care much for clas- sical educations, more especially when their progenitors at- tained their positions by manual industry and mere endurance? Thus the college for many years had to be content with the products of the distant schools in backwood settlements, and endure some prejudices by no means encouraging to the ardent and able professors who have long reflected so much credit on the institution. Times, however, have altered, and, moreover, as New Brunswick proceeds on its onward march of civilization, this handsome structure, perched on the terrace cliff overlooking the thriving little bustling town and lovely scenery of the St. John, must, doubtless, in process of time come to the front, and be the centre of intelligence and learn- ing in south-eastern Canada. So much for this the central city and capital of the province where my head-quarters were located for three years, and from whence I made various excursions in quest of the materials described in the following pages. The first and foremost subject of interest to the student of nature in every country is the natural history of its aborigines, wherever this can be traced with any accuracy; but even the antiquary who picks up the rudely fashioned stone implements of the Somme Valley, or even the more polished weapons of the same material, must often be disposed to speculate on the probable habits, appearance, etc., of peoples who lived in the remote ages of which history has preserved no record. There- fore, in the New World, what between the short time that has elapsed since the Stone Age, and the presence still of waifs _and strays of the same race that then existed, he is enabled to € 18 Field and Forest Rambles. derive lessons and apply comparisons with far greater certainty than could be obtained from a mere consideration of the mute records. Before proceeding to a consideration of a few points in- connection with the present condition of the native Indians of the region, I may state that I made it an occupation to visit their encampments wherever opportunity occurred ; moreover, being frequently brought in contact with the hunting members of the community, and having volunteered professional services during sickness, I could at all events judge for myself as to their social life and habits. It was soon apparent, however, NOEL MITCHELL, A HALF-BRED MELICITE HUNTER. that very little of their past history is to be obtained from even the most intelligent ; inasmuch as, even apart from their persistent indifference to treat on any subject connected with either their past history or present condition, there would seem to be an absolute incapacity to comprehend the meaning of such inquisitiveness on the part of the interrogator. In fact, there is a sort of silent and dogged bluntness of the understanding, whether natural or acquired through the force of unfavourable circumstances under which they have been placed ; so much is this the case, that I was sometimes in- Native Indians. 1g clined to the belief that many acts of ingratitude shown for favours received, were also the result of pent-up animosities associated with an inherited distrust of every mark of consider- ation shown towards them by the conquering race ; and pro- bably this is true to some extent, although it would appear to be owing, in no small degree, to an undemonstrative character natural to them. | I am, however, perfectly aware of the unsatisfactory con- dition one is placed in who has to narrow his observations to a small spot on a large continent. For this reason, and from the absence of any personal experience with reference to the natives of the adjoining regions, I am bound to state frankly that these notes are very limited ; nevertheless, as far as opportunities occurred and circumstances permitted, I hope there will be found some points of interest, not only acceptable to the general reader, but what the author had also much at heart at the time, an acquaintance with the character and modes of life of the primitive inhabitants of the region, con- sidered from the stand-points from which the antiquarian and ethnologist view such subjects. Moreover, to the naturalist, wherever he is placed, and however tempting may be other branches of science, there must always be a welcome field of research in endeavouring to trace the natural history of his own species back into unrecorded times, more particu- larly in the New World, where the transition from savagery to civilization is, comparatively speaking, but of yesterday. Our speculations, therefore, with reference to the habits, modes of living, and appearances of the stone-folks of ancient Europe, receive suggestive data from a study of the existent races of North America. A strange fate, indeed, is the apparent doom of the red Indian !—already driven across the continent by the great wave of European civilization, which, having overwhelmed the mass, has left a few stragglers behind, whilst the greater portion has either entirely disappeared, or been repelled to the slopes C2 20 Field and Forest Rambles. of the Rocky Mountains, where they are making a last stand | against the white man, with whom they have nothing in com- mon, and from whom they borrow only the worst traits of his character. Moreover, so indifferent are the aborigines every- where to the examples of their European conquerors, that to this day, even in the chief cities of Canada, the deau-idéal of fashion with the Indian squaw is a cast-off black hat fora head-dress, and a dirty blanket for a shawl. Thus, shod in her native mocassins, with her battered features and stealthy gait, she may be seen prowling about the streets in broad daylight, at once a conspicuous and sad picture of utter _wretchedness and poverty. Such was the first example of a> New Brunswick Indian that attracted my attention during a saunter along the streets of the pleasant country town just mentioned. In fact, I can picture almost every item of her attire and aspect; to wit, the short stature, green and yellow complexion, big coarse features, and capacious mouth, black eyes and hair; the old battered hat which none but an Irishman would covet, a glaring red cloth round her neck, and blanket across her shoulders. There she stood at the corner of a street, gazing listlessly at the red-coated soldiers just arrived from Europe, who in groups returned the inspec- tion with far greater signs of wonder, and some droll epithets, which I trust, poor creature, for her sake, she did not under- stand. A little further on, and who is that dark-complexioned man staggering forth from a spirit-store? A stout, sturdy- looking fellow enough, with a bloated countenance, and voice hoarse with sottish gibbering: he has just been twitted by a passer-by on his drunken condition, and has tendered a rude response in broken and all-but-unintelligible English. He sees me, knows I am a fresh arrival, and straightway asks if I . “have any cents for a drink.” “ Bill, you have had enough!” replies another wayfarer; at which he again responds in language not by any means parliamentary, and continues muttering and barking forth exhortations for money. He is Flabits and Characteristics of the Natives. 21 dressed in the cast-off raiments of gentility, but they are a long way too short for him. His coarse features are deeply pitted by smallpox, and like his hands swollen and chapped by cold and debauchery, whilst the straight unkempt black hair strews his shoulders. Such were the two first specimens of the aboriginal inhabitants of New Brunswick that came under my notice : I had hoped exceptions to a general rule, but further acquaintance with the race showed this not to be the case. The form and features of the native of New Brunswick, as far as I could determine from the present race, seem to resemble the Esquimaux rather than the Red Indian of the south and west. The stature was to all appearances short, but now the admixture of white blood has changed the original. Still the coarse features, thick nose and lips, larze mouth and prominent cheek bones, rather small eyes, and a fulness of the soft parts of the circumorbital region, black and straight hair, are maintained even when it is clear there has been a continued intermixture. Of course the female shows the half-bred conditions more clearly than the opposite sex ; and although the skin is often pale, the dark eye and hair, with an absence of any disposition to curling, are prominent characters and generally present. As to the cranial development, in the absence of matérials it would be impossible to speak with certainty; none of . the skulls I have examined could be authenticated as genuine, and were exhumed from graveyards known to have been used by the tribes since their contact with the whites ; moreover, the present race is particularly sensitive about any interference with their ancient burial-grounds, so_ that, excepting in out of the way places, it would be extremely difficult to obtain specimens of the true Micmac or Melicite skeleton. Looking at their race characteristics, the Indians of New Brunswick furnish a good illustration of a people rapidly progressing towards extinction, without having preserved any written or monumental record ; indeed, were it not for imple- ments of the chase picked up occasionally, we should have few 22 field and Fovast Rais other data to establish the existence of the human inhabitants of the region previous to the arrival of the first European ~ travellers. But small as. these memorials happen to be, they furnish much valuable information to the archeologist. Thus, without a literature of any sort, not even the faintest attempt at a trace or scribble of what could be styled writing is notice- able on any of the relics, and what is equally unsatisfactory are the narratives or so-called traditions we hear from the lips of the more intelligent natives. In fact, to listen to their talk is to give ear to what sailors call “long yarns” savouring strongly of the imagination of the narrator. Many of the old terms — are obsolete, and replaced by French or English words, so that their language, as now spoken, is corrupt to a degree ; indeed, to attempt to recover any portion of their unrecorded history ‘from these miserable remnants appears to me a profitless undertaking. They nevertheless maintain a good deal of their ancient manners and mode of living. The majority are employed in hunting, fishing, building canoes, making baskets, mocassins, and fancy bead-work on leather or birch bark. A few have taken to the agricultural pursuits and manual labour of the white man, but it is apparent that nothing comes so natural to them, or is so congenial to their tastes, as the pursuit of wild animals, and consequently the hunting portion of the community are in request, being much employed in directing expeditions after moose, caribou trapping, etc., more especially among the military officers, whom the poor creatures will miss now that the British force has been withdrawn ; indeed, they may well believe their best friends have nigh departed, and mourn the loss over the wigwam fire, in camp and forest, of the gentlemen who invariably paid them handsomely, and treated them with the utmost kindness in’ spite of many acts of ingratitude and their dogged indifference, which after all may, as just observed, be inherent. No doubt one of the greatest barriers to the social improve- ment of the Indian is the total absence of education, in par- Native Mortality. 23 ticular among the female sex, and consequently a dogged indifference to benefit in any way by the examples or advice of the pale-faces. Thus, whilst the males are brought in contact with the whites, and in some cases receive the rudi- ments of an English education, the squaws stick to the lodges, and, as a rule, talk only the native language, with all the nar- row-minded prejudices consequent on their exclusive habits. They are in general ugly, and probably from constant indoor life and unsanitary conditions, get soon aged in appearance. Marriage takes place at puberty, so that it is not uncommon to hear of females who have born fourteen to fifteen children, more than half of whom die before or during dentition. I was astonished at observing the absence of parental affection, even among the most respectable members in the villages. Love, as it exists in civilized society, has seemingly no place with them, but after all this is not to be wondered at, seeing they are sprung of the great Algonquin race, whose language does not contain the verb “tolove.”* Scrofula, consumption, and various other diseases dependent on abnormal modes of living, are prevalent in their camps; indeed the infantile mortality is appalling, as I have good cause to state from personal in- quiries; indeed, scarcely one-half of the children arrive at the age of puberty, and, with few exceptions, all die by what may be designated “ preventible diseases.” Moreover, it would seem that any admixture with. the white race has added neither strength nor stamina to the Indian, nor sharpened his intellectual faculties, and most assuredly not improved his morals ; however, it must be taken into account that there has been a very great change in his habits, and a substitution of unhygienic modes of living for the healthy nomadic existence of former days. We cannot therefore maintain that the mere cross has eventuated in the undoubted failure in strength and stamina which characterize the New Brunswick Indians of the present day as compared * See Lubbock, “ Origin of-Civilization,” p. 58. 2a Field and Forest Rambles. with their progenitors. With reference to the hereditary and transmissible diseases, such as have just been mentioned, it is highly probable that they owe their origin to unsanitary conditions of living rather than to any direct transmission from the whites. Thus, a wooden shed badly built suffices for a winter covering, without further preparation to exclude the intense cold; here, round an over-heated stove, the squaw and children huddle, while wretched ground pallets of rags form their bedding ; there is no household comfort or economy whatever, whole families living from hand to mouth. Of course there are exceptions; such, however, is the pitiable condition of the majority. But of all the besetting demons that ever danced destruction around the Indian, that fiend has been drunkenness. If only temperate habits could be formed, and more trouble taken by the whites in encouraging them to set out their villages on the models of the settlers, and in making the aged comfortable, and in holding forth induce- ments to the well behaved, instead of the live and let live system hitherto pursued, there might still be hopes of pro- longing their existence ; but as matters have been, and continue to go on, it seems clear that there is a race between the red man and the larger quadrupeds who shall be the first to disappear from the land where both once flourished and multiplied! Unfortunately, however, he is of obdurate heart and slow to adopt our manners and customs, the force of habit being strong within him; moreover, he soon finds that his ways can never be our ways, and that, do what he may, even to his utmost, he cannot manage to place himself in other than a doubtful equality with even the poorest and humblest of white men ; indeed, it is the case that, whether pure bred or half-caste, nay, even without any traceable blood- of an Indian in his veins, he carries traits of character and habits which more or less exclude him, irrespective of caste, from the society of all excepting his own people. I was often amused with what doubtless is a relic of the conciliatory Stone Age in New Brunswick. 25 language practised by the early settlers, in hearing residents address the Indian with the prefix “Brother.” Brother -Indian, forsooth! He will never be a brother to the white man, whom it might better become if, instead of fraternal epithets, he contributed something more solid in the way of material help; at all events he might try to do his very best, so as to let his poor brother die out in a respectable manner. It is not four hundred years since the early voyagers, who first came in contact with the natives of New Brunswick, found them living in wigwams made of birch-bark, and using canoes of the same material, without any apparent knowledge whatever of metals save native copper, which they hung about their persons in the shape of ornaments. In fact, like the aborigines of other portions of the continent, they were nomadic hunters, living entirely on the wild denizens of the forest and water, in the pursuit of which they used weapons made entirely of stone and bone, little aware of the vast mines of iron underlying more than one encampment where we now pick up their stone implements.* But rough as were their weapons in general, not a few show the very perfection of polish and finishing. They had flint knives of divers sizes and shapes for skinning beaver, mink, otter, deer, and bears; arrow- heads to penetrate the thick fur of the first, and spear-points of large size wherewith the reindeer and moose were slain, and the sturgeon’s mailed hide pierced ; axes to split fire- wood and dig through the ice ; wedges of divers dimensions and degrees of workmanship, and the war axe with which they fought their deadly foes, the Iroquois of the banks of the St. Lawrence, or the natives of Newfoundland, with whom, according to tradition, they carried on wars and formed _* For example, the vast iron mines of Woodstock, which furnish an excellent quality of iron, giving an average ratio of 32 percent. in the samples. See Hind’s Report, p. 161, and Prof. Bailey’s Report on the Mines and Minerals of New Brunswick, p. 58. 26 Field and Forest Rambles. national alliances for its prosecution.* Indeed, although the present generation retains scarcely a tradition of any value or accuracy, their old misunderstandings with the Mohawks are still religiously preserved and utilized in many native villages for the purpose of frightening the children into obedi- ence ; moreover, several of the aged entertain an inherited dread of the name, and would fly to the woods at the sight of a Mohawk. | The Jesuit fathers seem to have been the pioneers of civiliza- tion in New Brunswick, as well as elsewhere in the northern portion of the continent, followed by the white trapper and trader, who exchanged iron tomahawks for furs, when the Stone Age passed away, and with it the decline and decadence of the Indians, so that the entire recollection of the stone and bone weapon days vanished from their minds in the course of a few generations.t But to their forefathers it was a Golden Age, which, however, as time rolled on, was soon forgotten, until, by degrees, they were compelled, in their struggles for existence, to yield inch after inch of their noble forests, and dwindle down to a handful of degenerate beings, preyed on by poverty, — disease, and vice, which, in the ordinary course of events, must exterminate the race before another century or two have passed away. Referring back to the beginning of the sixteenth century, and the state of civilization in which the early voyagers found them, it appears that the races of this portion of north-eastern * “ Acadian Geology,” p. 42. + Nowhere in the province are stone implements met with in such abundance as on the banks of Grand Lake, Queen’s County, where the ancient race had evidently large encampments, and the Melicite still hunts the musk rat ; also on the Tobique River above the Grand Falls. I have often deputed native hunters to procure specimens, and on eliciting their impressions thereon usually received a laugh of ridicule at the idea of such ‘weapons being used in the destruction of the large animals ; indeed, some looked on them as children’s toys, and in no instance were their real histories guessed, unless by men who had picked up the information from Europeans. - Stone Age in New Brunswick. 2% America were not so far advanced in civilization as many of the neighbouring tribes, to whom the use of copper and iron was known long before the advent of Columbus. This, however, may have had something to do with the climate and physical condition of the locality, and more particularly the abundance of means of subsistence which did not necessitate excursions beyond their own native forests and rivers. The aborigines of New Brunswick then comprehended, as now, a seaboard and an inland tribe, speaking dialects for the most part similar, and related by blood to the great Algonquin race of the St. Law- rence and westward.* According to the French missionaries, the seaboard tribe, Micmacs or Souriquois, alone were esti- mated, in 1611, at from 3,000 to 3,500, not to speak of the St. John and other Indians of the inland race called the Etchemins, Eteminquois, better known at the present day as the Melicites, who were then probably more numerous. Now, I believe, the two tribes do not number over a thousand souls. The stone implements met with throughout the Canadian Dominion and Northern United States present similarities in form and workmanship. But what appears remarkable as compared with the Old World, is the finding of very rudely chipped tools along with the highly polished,—a circumstance suggestive of their contemporaneity. It appears, as I shall observe presently, that when we come to examine the Cana- dian celts, and take into account the exact purposes for which they were fabricated, and consider carefully the conditions under which a primitive people would have existed as regards climate, food, and so forth, these discrepancies in regard to the sequence of the stone ages in the two continents admit of * Moreover, the similarities of many words to Old World roots have been considered by American philologists as eminently suggestive of a European migration westward, and this is considerably strengthened by comparison of the languages of the Old World with the various dialects of the great Algonquin language, as pointed out by Mr. Rhand, missionary to the Micmac Indians of Nova Scotia, in an appendix to ‘“ Dawson’s Geology.” 28 Field and Forest Rambles. explanation, at all events as regards Canada. At the same time, it is not improbable that either partially or wholly the same may apply to certain regions of the Old World, where the two are found together. In New Brunswick, as elsewhere in North America, there does not appear to be any evidence of a Bronze Period. Although copper is met with in small quantities in the Devonian strata, and was known to the aborigines, they seem only to have used it as an ornament to adorn their persons. The Iron Age, as before stated, came in. rapidly, indeed so quickly that the present generation is ignorant of stone implements having been used by their forefathers, just as much apparently as we are of the owners of the flint tools of Europe. The iron toma- hawk, therefore, soon took the place of the greenstone celt, and was their chief object of barter with the early French voyagers and traders. Thus the long, narrow, adze-shaped iron hatchet, stamped with a “Fleur-de-lis,” * is occasionally picked up along the great river valleys. , é Referring to what may be called types of the weapons and implements of stone used by the Indians of New Brunswick, the arrow heads, figs. 1, 2, and 3, represent the usual pattern. No. 2 seems to have been used extensively, and is always the best finished, with an acute point and sharp cutting edges. The smaller point, fig. 3, made of white quartz, chipped or polished, is also not uncommon, and occasionally all may be collected in the same situation. Fig. 5 represents a very rudely shaped spear head, nearly nine inches in length, from an old encampment on the Tobique river, where the natives, and their foes the Mohawks, were wont to engage in desperate fights. . Stone hatchets of divers size, some very finely polished, such as fig. 6; others are so rudely fabricated that, unless used for wedges or ice axes, it would be difficult to imagine the pur- * I have seen specimens of this adze from the banks of the Miramichi River. Stone Age in New Brunswick. ag EMENTS USED BY THE INDIANS OF NEW BRUNSWICK. WEAPONS AND IMPL 30 Field-and Forest Rambles. pose for which they were applied. These are sometimes met with in numbers huddled together, and, in consequence, it has often occurred to me that they were merely implements in the first stage of manufacture. Now when we consider that the country is covered with snow for nearly half of the year, and take the rigours of the climate into account, together with the necessities of a sparsely distributed population subsisting entirely by the chase and fishing, we might well believe that they would lay in a supply of weapons for winter use, and nothing is more likely than that the unfinished tools were merely chipped into shape, their polishing and finishing being left to such time as neces- sity demanded.* Fig. 8 is the common form of knife. I believe flakes of flint were used for the same purposes. The c’ub-shaped implement (No. 7) of greenstone is a foot in length, and highly polished ; it was discovered, with several stone arrow heads, including fig. 3, and some hatchets, in a spruce-bark coffin containing the remains ofa warrior. Unfortunately, the above is the only one of such-like relics that I had an opportunity of examining ; its larger extremity is bevelled off to a blunt edge, with several rude transverse lines at the further end. It would be difficult to guess the precise use to which this celt was applied. I showed it to several old Indians, but one only ventured an opinion to the effect that it might have been used for separating the bark from birch and other trees. Scoops and smaller stone tools, besides hooks and needles of bone, are met with on the sites of old encampments and under the foundations of the log huts occupied by the remains of the tribes, who, like remnants of other primitive races, still display a preference for their ancient haunts, lingering on in small * Dr. Dawson, referring to the stone implements of this region, remarks (‘ Acadian Geology,” p. 41) that both the chipped and polished were used at the same time for different purposes.. This is probable, no doubt, to somé extent; but several spear heads and stone hatchets appear to me so imperfectly fabricated as to be at best inoperative as war implements, and certainly next to useless for the chase, wood-cutting, or ice digging. Stone Weapons used by the Indians. 31 colonies on the sides of certain bays, rivers, or lakes which had been favourite hunting and fishing grounds from time imme- morial. For example, there is a small detachment living in huts on the left bank of the St. John, opposite Fredericton. Here, among the débris of the middens, I have picked up skulls of the sturgeon, or bones of moose, mink, beaver, and other animals which they continue to hunt, just as will be noted pre- sently, obtains in the case of the ancient refuse heaps of their forefathers; indeed, in a perpendicular section of the river ~ alluvium on which the above encampment stands you may mark successive deposits of these remains to the depth of several feet. I failed to discern stone implements in undis- turbed strata, but on the beach by the river’s margin, and probably washed out of the bank, several stone celts and arrow points were found by the natives. Thus, from the conical shaped birch bark wigwam of the Stone Age, down to the wooden hut of the Iron Age, the same people have sojourned on the old hunting-grounds where, to all appearance, the Melicite and Micmac will end his days, like the last of the Mohicans. Fig, 10 represents a stone pot, deeply blackened by smoke, found in the Province, and, as far as the local implements are concerned, may be considered unique. It has been deposited in the Museum of St. John, where I noticed also the curious hammer, fig. 9, which is a stone celt perforated for the handle, with a-belt of ferruginous cement (a) welded round the middle, no doubt with the design of adding to the weight: 6 is the cutting edge, and c the heel. The celt is about four inches long by two inches in breadth. Reverting to the finely polished specimens. Many are so exquisitely fashioned, particularly the arrow edges, that the present race often express wonder how their forefathers fabri- cated such tools without employing metal ; indeed, Noel Mitchell, and other Melicite Indians, who deigned to take any ‘interest in-my endeavours to glean this amount of knowledge of their progenitors’ habits, were fairly at a loss to realize the a2 field and Forest Rambles. following method, and even laughed to scorn the idea of such very finely chipped edges as of fig. 2 having been done by pieces of bone, and it was no use attempting to persuade them. Nevertheless the probabilities are, that as at the present day, among the Pitt River Indians of California, the same custom was more or less prevalent among the eastern races. Of the former, Lieutenant E. G. Beckwith, of the U. S. Army,* says :— “One of them seated himself near me, and made from a fragment of quartz, with a simple piece of round bone, one end of which was semi-spherical, with a small crease in it (as if.worn by a thread) the sixteenth of an inch in depth, an arrow-head, which was very sharp and piercing, and such as they use on all their arrows. The skill and rapidity with which it was made, without a blow, but by simply breaking the sharp edges with the creased bone by the strength of his hands—for the crease merely served to prevent the instrument from slipping, affording no leverage—was remarkable.” Although flint seems to have been always preferred when readily procurable, inasmuch as the most perfectly shaped and artistic weapons, at all events, that I have seen, were made therefrom; nevertheless there were many hatchets of soft friable sandstone, with a shallow groove near the heel, the wedge-shaped extremity indicating some use distinctly different from that of a hatchet; perhaps they were war implements, or used in felling deer in deep snow: the latter custom, as will be shown in the sequel, is still in vogue and extensively pursued by both natives and Europeans, in spite of an Act of Parliament prohibiting the barbarous practice. Talking of the Sioux Indians of the Upper Missouri and Minnesota Rivers, Dr. Muller} remarks: “ Arrows of the * ““Report of Explorations for a Route for the oe Railroad, ” vol. ii., p. 43 of 2nd Report. + Page 61, “ Report of Surgical Cases toate in = Army of the United. States from 1865 to 1871.” Washington. Modes of Making Flint Weapons. 33 same tribe are not always made of the same size and material, and are shaped by the savages according to their prevailing fancy: the Toutons on the Upper Missouri, for instance, using both iron arrow-heads, also those made out of flint. In the same quiver of an Indian belonging to any one tribe, a great variety of different shaped arrow-heads will be found, which proves that the same tribe follows no special type, but fashions them according to any kind of taste.” With reference to other relics of the past race, tobacco-pipes of stone, very rude in construction, are found on the islands in the St. John, where the aborigines of old were wont to spear the salmon, bass, or sturgeon. Their antiquity, how- ever, may be doubted. The natives, moreover, have a tradition that it was not very long ago that the Indians smoked only their native willow bark (S. zzgra), which they even now mix with tobacco, or use alone when the latter is not procurable. The absence of pottery, as far as I have noticed, seems re- markable ; and I scarcely think if it had been in common use there would have been an absence of traces in the middens and old encampments; but so small a portion of the region has been examined, that I shall not be surprised if further disclosures confirm the presence of clay-made ware of some sort. I mention this especially in connection with the stone pot just referred to. The absence of sculptures of any sort on bone or stone is also worthy of notice, if we except a very remarkable object figured in Dawson’s “Acadian Geology,” and said to have been found on the banks of the Kennebeckasis, one of the influents of the St. John River. This work of art, according to the above authority, “is three feet in length, and is composed of a hard conglomerate, occurring 2 szzu in the vicinity of the place where it was discovered. It has the aspect of a rude attempt at the execution of a sphinx or cherub, and may have been a monumental stone, or the orna- ment of a gate, or the charm of a medicine-man.” * * “ Acadian Geology,” p. 45. 34 Field and Forest Rambles. Nothing further is known of the relic, only that it was dug up when making a cellar in a district far from any locality where such things were likely to be fabricated, thus leaving little doubt as regards its antiquity. 3 The next (see vignette on page 1) is if anything more interesting, and represents a human head in bas-relief, some- what exceeding the natural dimensions. It is cut ona slab of red granite, and was discovered in a perfectly accidental manner lying among blocks of the same rock on the banks of the beautiful lake of Utopia, at the southern corner of the province. The outline of the features is exceedingly clear and distinct, the nose and forehead forming almost one straight line, somewhat like that seen on Mexican sculptures. I spent several days in the locality searching for further relics, and more especially the remains of a temple building said to have ex- isted at one time on a bluff overlooking. the lake, of which, however, not a trace was observable. I believe these two sculptures are the only ancient remains of their kind that have hitherto turned up in New Brunswick,—I might even say Canada and the Northern States. The skill displayed on the medallion clearly indicates a high knowledge of art, never attained by the forefathers of the present Indians ; more- over, if it be not the work of a preceding race, it might be one of the trials of skill of some clever Jesuit father in the early days of colonization! Indeed when a drawing of this sculpture was displayed at the Boston Natural History Society, some members pronounced it a very modern impo- sition, and asserted it to be a likeness of the great Washing- ton! I took pains, however, to satisfy myself on that point, having been assured by my friend Mr. Wetmore, of St. Stephen, to whom it was presented by the workmen, that he saw the moss growing on the slab, and was among the first to visit the spot, when he inspected it zz szdu. It has been deposited by this gentleman in the Natural History Museum of St. John. 4 : : Ancient [Indian Refuse Fleaps. 35 Ancient Indian kitchen middens may be said to be found along the entire Atlantic coast line of the American con- tinent. With reference to the region now under consideration, they are found on the shores and islands of the Bay of Fundy, and other portions of the coasts of New Brunswick, and the adjoining State of Maine; the conditions of the animal remains indicating in some instances considerable antiquity, whereas the shells in other cases point to more recent interments. I examined several of these heaps on the islands in the Bay of Fundy, and along the fiord of the St. Croix River for many miles. Although a large number had evidently been levelled and utilized for top-dressing, enough remain to show that, whether as articles of food, bait, or both, the aboriginal races collected vast quantities of the well-known clam, and gua-hog, besides two species of oyster (O. borealis et Virginiana), and the common forms of Waztica crepidula solen, etc., the debris of which strew the coasts of several of the inlets in the Bay of Fundy, their numbers evincing the profusion of each species. It has, however, been asserted by no less an authority than Dr. Gould, that all, especially the three first species, are becoming rapidly extinct north of Cape Ann, Massachusetts.* It is likewise stated that their disappearance has been in part, or altogether, owing to the saw mills in the vicinity of the beds, and that the clams, once plentiful in situations on the coast of Maine, have vanished since the lumber mills were erected in their neighbourhood. Whatever may be the cause, there is certainly something remarkable in the decadence of this shell-fish, as I shall also have occasion presently to observe of a duck which frequented the same area. Mr. Wyman, in 1867, examined several shell heaps near Portland, in Maine, and in Massachusetts, when he found stone and bone imple- * “ Mollusca of Massachusetts,” and Sewall’s “ Ancient Dominions ;” also Hitchcock’s Report, “ Scientific Survey of the State of Maine, 1860,” p. 292. It is worthy of notice that drifted shells of the O. dovealis are met with in abundance on the shores of Sable Island, in the Gulf of the St. Lawrence, as I am informed by Dr. Gilpin, of Halifax, Nova Scotia. . D2 36 field and Forest Rambles. X ments, also fragments of hand-made pottery, and remains of upwards of twenty quadrupeds and birds, all belonging to recent species. But the most interesting of his finds were perfect limb bones of the great auk, now extinct, which he moreover believes did probably linger on in the Bay of Fundy after the advent of the first settlers; and Mr. Wilson has lately shown that the bird was not rare in certain parts of Newfoundland within the remembrance: of the present generation.” . | A good idea of the contents of the kitchen middens met with on the islands and shores of the far-famed Bay of Fundy may be gathered from the following instance. I examined one of several mounds on the coast of an inlet named Passa- maquoddy Bay.t The above lay, along with other mounds of a similar shape, on a flat facing the sea, and had the greater portion destroyed by the wash of the waves at high tide, dis- closing a perpendicular section composed almost entirely of clam shells interspersed with mussels, whilks, and the common planorbis. The former (especially the* mussel Mya aren- aria) were extremely abundant, and for the most part in frag- ments ; however I procured several very large ones, averaging 44 by 3 inches in breadth, which the fishermen of the neigh- bourhood told me were very much larger than any recent specimens they had seen. The other animal remains belonged * See Wyman’s “American Naturalist,” 1868; and “ Newfoundland ard its Missionaries,” by the Rev. W. Wilson, Cambridge. Mass., 1866, + There has been a controversy regarding the etymology of this word. It appears, from Dawson’s “ Acadian Geology,” (p. 2), that the learned author, with the natural desire to maintain a becoming derivation of the name under which he has associated the geological features of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, disputes the conclusions of the Commissions on the Settlement of the North-eastern Boundary, who assert that Acadia is derived from the native name of the fish “follock,” whereas according to Mr. Rhand it means “place of residence.” Whatever may be the real etymology of the word, I must state, as regards the Passama- quoddy Bay,—whether as they assert it is derived from Pos (great), agua | (water), aguoddie (pollock), or not,—that this fish is common in the bay, and its remains are plentiful in the shell heaps. Ancient Indian Refuse Heaps. 37 to the following. The beaver, repelled and now exterminated within a radius of 90 miles, seems to have been plentiful in the neighbourhood, to judge from the fragments of bones and entire jaws and teeth dispersed throughout the heap. These did not however differ in any respect from individuals now inhabiting the northern rivers of the province. . A jaw of the little field mouse (4. Gapperiz) was met with. It is alsoa denizen of the locality at the present day. Remains of the Virginian deer were likewise plentiful, and several of its long bones showed by their longitudinal fractures that they had been split for marrow. All the bones were very light and dry, and readily adhered to the tongue. It is requisite to observe that the surrounding country, in particular the valley of the Maguadavic River (River of Hills), has been a favourite _ resort of this deer from time immemorial, no doubt in conse- quence of the rugged outlines of the country ; however, the numbers annually captured in snow-drifts, and destroyed in early spring when the thaws set in, are to all appearances in excess of the births, so that there is every likelihood of its extinction taking place before long, which, as regards New Brunswick, would be complete, seeing that the animal is localized in its distribution, being all but confined to the river valley above mentioned. I found besides numbers of bones and jaws, evidently of pollack and other large fishes, includ- ing scales of the sturgeon now also plentiful, and the arrow point of bone, shown in plate, fig. 4, also fragments of bone hooks and worked pieces of the Virginian deer’s horns turned up with fragments of charcoal. But neither in this kitchen midden, nor in two others partially explored by me on the same coast line, westward, were layers of charcoal found such as Professor Chadbourne describes in shell mounds examined by him on the coast of the adjoining State of Maine,* indicating that fires had been made on the heaps. From ) * See ‘‘ Maine Nat. History Society Proceedings for 1859;” also ** Report on the Agricultural and Scientific Survey of Maine,” p. 290. | 38 field and Forest Rambles. the general arrangement of these middens on flats, and along shallow shores, it seemed likely they had been the refuse heaps of wigwams placed immediately behind them, such as the Fuegian is forming at this day. Moreover, we find them nearer home in many a fishing village, and in front of Irish cabins; indeed within a stone throw of these old shell piles you may come on temporarily erected bark wigwams of the same sugar-loaf shape used by the ancient Melicites, whose de- scendants repair annually to St. Andrews with their basket- work and wares. Moreover there is difficulty in picking one’s way to the cabin door through the filth and garbage they are too lazy to convey from the immediate precincts of their dwellings. Thus this custom of savage man still lingers on in civilized life. But there is another trait of character of the wild man which we have refined, and that is, the love for the chase and — destruction of wild animals. When this is pursued to the exclusion of everything intelligent beyond the mere slaying, there is engendered that potent impulse a longing for the pursuit,—in other words, a craving that is never satisfied, and seldom cries “enough” as long as there are birds or beasts to be killed. If we give way too much to this in early life, our tastes will soar no higher, and we may bid “ good-bye”’ _ to mental culture ever afterwards. Thus the youth who thinks of nothing but sport, grows up, like the savage hunter, a fine fellow indeed ; but unless he can separate the pleasures of the gun, rifle, rod, and chase from his business, it is not much mark he will make on the civilization of his day; for after all, he has been reverting to the habits of primeval man, and displaying a spice of the old times when “ Wild in woods the noble savage ran.” It is in this way that the love of the chase, and of wild countries, come to us so readily ; indeed there are few who have wandered in the wilderness but get to like it so that the refinements of civilization become irksome. There is the charm of freedom in savage life, which SS Extermination of the Native Animals. 39 once realized is never forgotten, and if pursued for a length of time creates a desire to be away from, at all events, the centres of civilization, so much so that of the two states of existence, we learn to prefer that which seems to have been the original of man. In fact, is this not an instance of a reversion or throwing back, as Mr. Darwin calls it, to the traits of a common progenitor ? Referring to the gradual extinction of the larger quadru- peds of the region, it may be stated that the walrus, once very plentiful on the shores of the province, has now been repelled to the Frozen Ocean. It was common in the Gulf of the St. Lawrence as late as 1770, where important stations, such as Point Miscou, owe their former notoriety entirely to the walrus hunting: indeed, since the commencement of the present century there appears no record of the animal having been seen in Canadian waters ;* but what is of more singular _ import, and far less explicable, is the disappearance of the bird commonly known: as the Labrador duck (C. Labradorius), from the Bay of Fundy and other portions of the adjoining coast. I give this on the authority of my friend Mr. Board- man, whose extensive acquaintance with American ornitho- logy, and more especially of the region I am considering, entitle his opinions to every consideration. He assures me that the pied duck was very plentiful up to late years in many of the bays along the New Brunswick coast, and also in the New York market, but has now become very rare, so much so, that its name is recorded among the desiderata of the Smithsonian Institute. It is very unlikely that this migratory bird has been exterminated by man ; the causes of the extinction of the great auk, which could not fly, and the persecution of the walrus, beaver, etc., with all the odds against them, are evident ; but the causes of the extinction of certain shell fishes and the duck are not so apparent. * See Gilpin, Trans. of Nova Scotia Inst. of Nat. Science, vol. ii., p- 126. ; 40 Field and F orest Rambles. \ CHAPTER II. Backwoods Men—Influence of the Climate on the Anglo-Saxon—Modes of Living—Thoughts on Emigration—French Settlers of Tracadie, Leprosy — Charms of Forest Life— Native and European Myths —The Puma, Lynx, Wild Cat—Sable and its varieties—Mink, Weasel—Fisher Cat, Skunk and Otter—Increase of the Wild Quadrupeds of Nova Scotia—On Species Making—Bear—Influence of Forest Reclamation on the habits of Animals—Fox and its Varieties—Albinism and Melanism. EFORE proceeding to details in connection with the fauna and physical characters of the region, I will record my. impressions in relation to the influences of this sub-frigid climate on the European settlers, also certain conditions of living which appear to me to exercise baneful influences on their health. il To one just arrived from Northern Europe there is as- suredly something disappointing in the outer aspects of the middle aged of both sexes inhabiting the remoter districts of New Brunswick. Where he expected to meet burly, well- nourished farmers, sallow, weather-beaten countenances and spare, sinewy frames predominate among men of forty, while the pallid faces of the women indicate often ten years in advance of their real ages. The question naturally suggests itself, What is the cause or causes of this anomaly? In exa- mining the sanitary aspect of the question, it soon becomes apparent that several important influences are at work in con- nection with the habits, food, and climate. . It is possible I may not have recognized one-half of the causes, but according to what came under my notice, the following seem to produce Log fires versus Stoves. 41 deleterious results on the general health of the rural commu- nities. It is evident, in the first place, that the winter climate is trying to the Anglo-Saxon, and requires him to make exer- tions in order to maintain the animal heat. The first settlers, pursuing the course still practised by the woodcutters in the wilderness, lived in log-built shanties, which they heated by open fires. Of late years stoves in the centre of the apartment have been substituted, for the reasons that they consume less wood, radiate heat better, and are more conve- nient for cooking purposes, whilst the former only diffused heat in front, and created an in-draught of cold air from the door, thus chilling the backs of the inmates. Indeed, this is more noticeable than it may seem to the general reader, as all will allow who have sat round a log fire in a hut when the ther- mometer was several degrees under zero. But at the same time there can be no question that the log fire was, in some respects, the healthier of the two; and as the intense cold invites crowding around the fire, it is a usual custom for the whole family to pass days in the dry, stove-heated atmosphere of their small cottages, so that in spring they look pale and shrivelled. So apparent is this, that no one who has passed a year in the interior of Canada but must have been struck by the pallid aspects, especially of the women and children, who, as matters of course, are more within doors than the men. Such a mode of existence, prolonged for nearly half the year, coupled with salted provisions and general sameness of diet, has, unquestionably, evil effects on the general health, exciting constitutional diseases, such as consumption, dyspep- sia,* and the scorbutic states frequently observed among the badly-fed residents of wilderness districts. * J have frequently been impressed with the belief that the majority of cases of disordered digestion so prevalent among the settlers in remote districts are greatly owing to the bread or beans not being properly cooked. The latter, as is well known, are highly indigestible when carelessly pre- pared, as shown by the combination of the sulphur and phosphorus pro- A2 Field and Forest Rambles. Moreover, the extremes of cold are trying to constitutions not originally strong, and we can well believe the privations of the early settlers did pretty well demonstrate nature’s rule, that the hardiest and strongest only survive; indeed, con- sidering the difficulties to be encountered, it is highly probable that only: persons of this description thought of emigrating. Probably, therefore, the secret of acclimatization is a good constitution and due attention in maintaining a healthful con- dition of mind and body. Having resided for several years both in hot and cold climates, I have been struck with the circumstance that fresh arrivals feel the extremes less during the first year or two than subsequently, which may be ac- counted for in some ways from the novelty of the situation and attractions of a new country, more especially if the individual keeps both body and mind in healthful exercise. As to the colour of the hair and complexion, or rather temperament, in connection with a foreigner’s susceptibility to the diseases of very hot and very cold countries, I do not think any very definite rule can be laid down: however, as far as my observa- _ tion extends, I did not notice that dark or fair complexioned ~ Europeans were more or less susceptible to the diseases of one or other, but I suspect it is the opinion of every one who has looked into the subject carefully, that the persons who stand all climates best have vigorous circulations with good digestive organs and skins easily tanned, which means nothing more than rude health; nevertheless, there being so many inter- mediate states usually admitted as healthful conditions, it is difficult to particularize the exact temperament that will fulfil these ends. I have always noticed that although persons may sojourn for long periods in trying climates, and enjoy their usual health, still when exposed to vicissitudes there is no mis- taking the advantages of the former over all other inter- ducing flatus, otherwise, in combination with the articles above stated, they form a diet in every way suited to the labouring man. Effects of the Climate on Europeans. 43 mediate gradations, whether of dark or fair temperaments. Persons who readily lose the natural glow of health, and be- come pallid on exposure to great cold or extremes of heat, for example, are not easily browned by the sun; such are soonest fagged by inordinate bodily exertions, although the indi- vidual will sometimes refuse to admit what is palpable to the looker-on ; still there is no mistaking this simple fact, and its general application. I have had much experience of the physical requirements of the British soldier, and after over a score of years’ observation, am well convinced, in order to support the fatigues and hardships which he is daily called upon to undergo, that, irrespective of stamina, no man ought to undertake to meet the vicissitudes of tropical sun and soil until he is at least twenty years of age. My own impression is that, whether as a colonist or belonging to the army, he who has to fight against the climate of Canada on the one hand, and Central Africa or India on the other, should be fully de- veloped ; therefore the minimum age ought not to be under twenty-five. This I know full well would bring few recruits to our depdts, but it is a case of pounds, shillings, and pence which the ratepayer will do well to consider. After all, the men.who have made the most marked im- pression on the history of civilization have been, as a rule, the possessors of a mens sana in corpore sano, 1 mean where the hardships of sun and soil have to be overcome. Some have fallen victims to one or both before the battle was over, whilst others, like Livingstone,* weathered the storm. All fulfil the natural law whereby the strongest gain the day, or, in other * Many practical illustrations of what has been stated are fresh in my memory. Without particularizing individual instances, I may observe that several of the men of mark who have aided in extending our Indian empire, have been famous for their great activity and powers of endurance, perhaps in some cases selected ; but I opine in the majority of instances their chief recommendations were indomitable pluck and enterprise, with powers of endurance which carried them through difficulties where nine out of ten of their compeers would have succumbed. 44 Field and Forest Rambles. words, the vigorous, and healthy, and the happy survive and multiply ; and it would be well if all intending reclaimers of the wilderness, whether bound for Canada or elsewhere, did fully realize the hard struggles before them,—inasmuch as, however inviting the prospect may be beforehand, or to the casual on-looker, in serious practice there are many obstacles to be overcome which demand the full exercise of vigorous manhood, and unusual patience, energy, and perseverance. We can easily suppose, therefore, that the privations of the early Canadian settlers must have pretty well demonstrated these facts with reference to the climate. The most unhealthy seasons of the year are during the thaws of spring, and in autumn at the setting in of the cold months, when the rapid transitions of temperature invariably create sickness. Consumption is always most fatal in midsummer, after the variable weather. Inflammations of the lungs, es- pecially pneumonia, are prevalent in winter, the latter being the disease par excellence of the climate, which carries off the aged and persons whose constitutions have been under- mined by intemperance, and is the chief exciting cause of consumption. It seems that alcoholic drinks here, as in all very cold countries, recommend themselves, and no doubt, under certain conditions, are beneficial ; but both whites and Indians seem perfectly unable to withstand the allurements of whisky drinking, so that they are either confirmed drunkards or teetotalers, the latter to an extent often injurious to weakly individuals. It is a frequent subject of remark that the second and third generations of Europeans born and brought up in the colony have not the strength nor stamina of their fore- fathers, and this is evidently a general rule,—the result, per- haps, of several influences. Looking at the subject in what seems to me its proper bearings, it will be observed that the original reclaimers of these vast forests must of necessity have been a temperate and hardy race, dependent entirely on their own exertions, distant from the demoralizing temptations of ; Effects of the Climate on Europeans. — A5 towns, and surrounded only by the bare necessaries of life ; while their children inherited the lands they had cultivated with far less demand on their energies; and finding that their patrimony could always bring enough to maintain them in idleness, they neglected the farm, and the soil became impo- verished. In this way whole districts, once famous for their fertility, are now worn out entirely from the prolonged system of constant demand without adequate remuneration.* The settler in the wilderness districts spends the year be- tween the woods and the farm, and no doubt, of the two, he infinitely prefers the former, where he is not over-worked, and always gets a good dinner and’ pay for a hard day’s work. But as soon as he has driven the logs down the streams, he must hasten to his home to till and saw enough to maintain his family during his absence. Sad experience has long since established a canon that no branch of industry can prosper as long as there is ready access to alcoholic drinks; hence none are allowed, tea being substituted and used extensively at each meal. Thus, while pork, fresh meat, beans, molasses, and home-baked bread are the sole articles of food in the lumber camp, he lives more sparingly in his home, where salted pork is often the only animal food in the larder from year’s end to year’s end. The result is, wherever the sameness of living has been pursued for some time, there is never much difficulty in recognizing its effects on the outward aspect of the inhabitants.t Here, unlike the United States, the infusion * In the rural districts agriculture is still very primitive, whilst horti- culture is very much neglected; in fact, neither have received anything like the attention they deserve, and apparently never will until the forests are _exhausted and the settler thinks more of his farm than of felling trees. + During my wanderings in the forest districts I was constantly applied to for advice regarding conditions of ill-health demonstrably the result of long-continued subsistence on one sort of food; scurvy and diseases resultant of mal-assimulation being especially common. It would, I feel, be beneficial to health in the rural districts if more wheaten bread was used and less buckwheat, which, although it tastes well, is poor in nitro- genous substances and fat ; moreover, the custom of serving up both 46 field and Forest Rambles. of fresh blood from northern Europe is small, and intermar- riages keep up a repetition of one stock, so that, when con- tinued generation after generation, I have no doubt the con- ditions just referred to would, in combination with climate, produce a deterioration of race which nothing but the former and a change of living are likely to obviate. With reference to the reclamation of the forests and the persons best suited to cope with the rigours of the climate and other difficulties, although I do not wish to enlarge on this subject, I cannot resist recording a few remarks in connection with emigration, more especially my own impres-’ sions (such as they are) regarding the description of men best suited to contend against a trying climate and reclaim the primitive forests. I think it will be the opinion of persons un- prejudiced in every way, that the young agricultural labourer, with a perfectly sound constitution, and accustomed to the hardships and fatigues incident to his calling, is by far the best pioneer of cultivation in the backwoods of Canada. Such do not soon get disheartened through the asperities of the soil or weather, and being unaccustomed to great expecta- tions, are more easily contented with the small returns that, as matters of course, will attach themselves to the fortunes of the first settler. While on the other hand, as has not unfrequently been the case, gentlemen farmers, and officers of the army, settle in the wilderness; the latter, captivated by the shooting buckwheat and wheaten cakes hot, and often undercooked, must be pernicious to persons of weak digestion. Mr. Hitchcock, in his “ Scientific Report on Maine” (p. 358), makes the following observation on the apparent effects of buckwheat on the physique of the French settlers in the more secluded. portions of the State: “It may be a matter of fancy on our part, but we thought we could see some connection between the physical energy of the farmers in that section and the crops that they raise. There was an apparent listlessness and lack of physical stamina in those Acadians who cultivated little else than buckwheat for bread, com-— pared with those who paid attention to the culture of the wheat and other cereals. Whether the buckwheat diet was the cause, and the debility the effect, or vice versd, we will not here attempt to decide.”’ Observations on Emigration. A7 -and fishing, as much as the independence and novelty of the life, have turned their swords into Canadian ploughshares. The first, I opine, will find their prospects poorly realized ; and to the second, I would be very much inclined to say, “Don’t! Do not reverse your social position and aspirations for the doubtful chance of bettering your circumstances at the expense of undoing all that education and refinement your parents may have even stinted their purses to provide for you !” No doubt the war one has to wage against nature on the one hand and climate on the other is, as regards New Bruns- wick and like countries, best suited to such as have never been accustomed to a much better state of existence, and whose inclinations are in keeping with the society with which they are destined to associate. I speak entirely of the wilder- ness districts and their reclamation. In the numerous towns and cities of Canada there is ample room for the exercise of the best intelligence and enterprise, but there, as everywhere else, one must know how to proceed.* An example of the evils of intermarriage ‘in combination with unsanitary modes of living, such as have been detailed, is © shown among the French settlers on the north-eastern frontier of the province. Descended from the early Norman colonists, they speak their mother-tongue and maintain the old religious faith ; indeed, so exclusive are they, that it is rare to hear of any one marrying out of his own sect. Moreover, so closely are they bound by family ties, that in one district (Carraquette) * During my peregrinations in New Brunswick I was frequently struck by observing how the national characters of the settlers are displayed in the appearance and management of their farms, even in the second and third generations born in the country. The tidy, well-kept, well-fenced - farm of the Englishman and thrifty and canny Scot, and the wretched cabin, the slatternly and dilapidated precincts of the Irish, with the eternal pig roaming about wherever it listed, are so conspicuous that in travelling through forest clearings I could generally guess the nationality of the owners. | 48 field and Forest Rambles. it is a usual occurrence to give marriage dispensations. Thus hereditary diseases are common, and of all others that terrible scourge Elephantiasis, or Greek Leprosy, has maintained a prominent position among the maladies of these poor creatures for many years. Indeed so frightful have been its ravages, that FRENCH LEPERS OF TRACADIE. - the Government was obliged to build a hospital in the district for the especial treatment of such cases. This very wise measure - has had the good effect of isolating the disease, but sometimes the wretched victim, rather than undergo forced detention in the dismal lazaretto, betakes himself to the woods, and is Difficulties of Lorest Travelling. 49 there surreptitiously maintained by friends. No doubt the dietary contributes towards developing the inherent predis- position : indeed many of the afflicted attribute their con- ditions to feeding on salted fish for lengthened periods, and in consequence of the prevalence of the disease in families, there grew a belief that it was communicable by touch. This, how- ever, has been clearly proved not to be the case, whilst on the other hand the hereditary transmission is indisputable, as shown by careful observations made by Drs. Bayard and Wilson of St. John. Considering the scientific interest con- nected with the natural history of this formidable malady, I have made an abstract in the Appendix from the report of these gentlemen, showing the consanguinity of the inmates of the lazaretto at the time of their inspection. The repulsive aspects of many of the unfortunate beings are too shocking to relate, and although a good deal has been done to ameliorate their conditions, still, from all I could learn, there are few public charities in the province more deserving general support than the leper hospital of Tracadie. I made an ineffectual attempt to visit these poor outcasts, but at a season of the year when travelling is very difficult in consequence of thaws; indeed I got as far as the mouth of the Mirimachi River, and was within forty miles of the lazaretto, when a continuance of May floods carried away bridges and destroyed the usual route along the north-east coast. Never shall I forget the four days spent in traversing these sixty miles of New Brunswick forest in a wretched waggon yclept | the “ Royal Mail,’ when after twenty-four hours’ struggling over the most villanous of roads, we halted at midnight at a country inn, where I slept on the floor, with the mail-bags for a pillow. How the driver of the diligence fell asleep as we were rattling down a steep hill, and by way of bringing the negligent whip to a sense of duty, his neighbour, a Presbyterian parson, nudged him so violently as to knock the culprit from his box ; the meeting with the skipper of a German vessel in E 50 Field and Forest Rane a farmhouse, where we stopped to dine and change horses ; and the story of a pursuit after his crew who had deserted him in Miramichi Bay a few days previously, together with many other incidents of travel which occurred under anything but pleasant circumstances, are all duly chronicled in my remem- brance ; alloyed with the kindness and hospitality of my friend Dr. Benson, of Chatham, to whom I am further indebted for his able report on the lepers, and much valued information in connection with the interior economy and condition of the Tracadie asylum. Although prevented from making a personal inspection of the hospital, I must not leave the subject without some further notice of the establishment, and therefore tran- scribe the following excellent description by the late Governor, the Hon. Sir Arthur Gordon, already published in “ Vacation Tourists” for 1863. Talking of the origin of the leprosy, Sir Arthur says :— : “There is an obscure and doubtful story that, some eighty or a hundred years ago, a French ship was wrecked on the shore of the county of Gloucester or Northumberland, and that some of those who escaped from the crew were sailors of Marseilles, who had caught in the Levant the true eastern leprosy, the terrible Elephantiasis Grecorum. Wowever this may be, there is no doubt that for many years past a portion of the French population of these counties has been afflicted with this fearful malady, or one closely allied to it—probably that form of leprosy which is known to prevail upon the coast of Norway. About twenty years ago the disease seemed to be on the in- crease, and so great an alarm was created by this fact, and by the allegation (the truth or falsehood of which I have never been able satisfactorily to ascertain) that settlers of English descent had caught and died of the disease, that a very stringent law was passed, directing the seclusion of the lepers, and authorizing any member of a local Board of Health con- stituted by the Act, to commit to the Lazaretto any person — afflicted with the disorder. After being for a time established Leprosy among the French Settlers of Tracadie. 51 at Sheldrake Island, in the Miramichi’ River, the hospital was removed te Tracadie, in the county of Gloucester, where it continues to remain. “The situation of the Lazaretto is dreary in the extreme, and the view which it commands embraces no object calculated to please, or indeed to arrest, the eye. On the one side is a - shallow, turbid sea, which at the time of my visit was un- enlivened by a single sail; on the other lies a monotonous stretch of bare, cleared land, only relieved by the ugly church and mean wooden houses of a North American village. “The outer enclosure of the Lazaretto consists of a grass field, containing some three or four acres of land. Within these limits the lepers are now allowed to roam at will. Until lately, however, they were confined to the much narrower bounds of a small enclosure in the centre of the large one, and containing the buildings of the hospital itself. “Into these dismal precincts I entered, accompanied by the Roman Catholic Bishop of Chatham, the Secretary to the Board of Health, the Resident Physician, and the Roman Catholic priest of the village, who acts as Chaplain to the hospital. “Within the inner enclosure are several small wooden build- ings, detached from each other, and comprising the kitchen, laundry, etc., of the establishment; one of these edifices, but newly completed, is furnished with a bath—a great addition to the comfort of the unhappy inmates. The hospital itself is a building containing two large rooms, the one devoted to the male, and the other to the female, patients. In the centre of each room is a stove and table, with a few benches and stools, whilst the beds of the patients are ranged along the walls. These rooms are sufficiently light and well-ventilated, and at the time of my visit were perfectly clean and neat. In the ‘rear of these rooms is a small chapel, so arranged that a window obliquely traversing the wall on each side of the par- tition, which divides the two rooms, enables the patient of either sex to witness the celebration of Mass without meeting. E 2 w 52 Field and Forest Rambles. Through the same apertures confessions are received, and the Holy Communion administered. I may here remark how curious an illustration is thus afforded to architectural students _ of the object of those low skew windows often found in the chancels of ancient churches. In a remote corner of North America, in a rude wooden building of modern date, erected by men who never saw a medizval church, or possess the least acquaintance with Gothic architecture, convenience has sug- gested an arrangement precisely similar to one which has long puzzled the antiquaries and architects of Europe. “At the time of my visit there were twenty-three patients in the Lazaretto, thirteen males and ten females, all of whom were French Roman Catholics, belonging to families of the lowest class. These were of all ages, and suffering from every stage of the disease. , One old man, whose features were so disfigured as to be barely human, and who appeared in the extremity of dotage, could hardly be roused from his apathy sufficiently to receive the Bishop’s blessing, which was eagerly sought on their knees by the others. But there were also young men, whose arms seemed as strong, and their powers of work and of enjoyment as unimpaired, as they ever had been; and—saddest sight of all—there were young children condemned to pass here a life of hopeless misery. “JY was especially touched by the appearance of three poor boys between the ages of fifteen and eleven years. To the ordinary observer they were like other lads—bright-eyed and intelligent enough; but the: fatal marks which sufficed to separate them from the outer world were upon them, and they were now shut up for ever within the walls of the Lazaretto. “An impression similar in kind, though feebler in degree, is produced by the sight of all the younger patients. There is something appalling in the thought that from the time of his arrival until his death, a period of perhaps many long years, a man, though endowed with the capacities, the passions, and the desires of other men, is condemned to pass from youth to Leper Flospital of Tracadie. 53 middle life, and from middle life to old age, with no society but that of his fellow-sufferers, with no employment, no amuse- ment, no resource; with nothing to mark his hours but the arrival of some fresh victim; with nothing to do except to watch his companions slowly dying around him. Hardly any of the patients could read, and those who could had no books. No provision seems to be made to furnish them with any occupation, either bodily or mental, and under these circum- stances I was not surprised to learn that, in the later stages of the disease, the mind generally became enfeebled. “The majority of the patients did not appear to me to suffer any great amount of pain, and I was informed that one of the characteristics of the disease was the insensibility of the flesh to injury. One individual was pointed out to me whose hand and arm had been allowed to rest on a nearly red-hot stove, and who had never discovered the fact until attention was arrested by the strong smell of the burning limb, which was terribly injured.” I never think of the haunts of the larger wild quadrupeds of this region without associating them with many scenes deeply impressed on my memory, of the delightful winter days spent in roaming on snow shoes over the forest, or the nights when under the shelter of the little hut made of pine | boughs, and covered over with snow, its cheerful log fire in the centre, and our pallets of the softest spruce foliage, we recounted the adventures of the day, or listened to the long yarns of the Indian. | =: How vivid come back these and like recollections! the solitude and perfect stillness of nature, only broken by the twigs cracking from intense frost, the loud chattering of stray squirrels, or the phantom-like form of a hare springing over the snow, the dreary barren with only here and there a single tree, or clump of stunted pines, the impervious alder swamp, anon the dismal darkness of the forest ; now the deep impres- 54 Field and forest Rambles. sions of a moose, then the broader and less hollow prints of the reindeer; the fox’s sharply defined dimples, the lynx’s broad pads, and shallow track of the sable or mink, whilst from beneath every bush close around the bivouac, are seen innumerable sojournings of the smaller weasels that come forth at night to feed on the refuse of our humble fare, or the little short-tailed wood mouse, attracted by the light and heat, and not yet taught to fear man, is seen running about the humble hearth. I think, moreover, of the Indian, seated on the opposite side of the log fire, pipe in mouth, mending a torn moccasin, as he narrated some hunting or trapping adven- ture, or what was always most akin to his fancy, a discourse on the supernatural. Indeed, their belief in ghosts and goblins, fairies, water sprites, and monster animals, if in any way inferior to that of their forefathers, must indeed be small. It used to be my favourite occupation during visits to Indian villages, or in excursions to the wilderness, to provoke discus- sions on all sorts of traditional stories, or elicit personal narra- tives in regard to their habits and customs, and, I will say, a more impracticable race does not exist. It was of no use talking to the squaw on any subject save the price of moc- casins or snow shoes, for, indeed, little she cared to tell her social life, whilst the man was ‘seldom induced to talk unless when separated from the others. But by the blazing log fire in the depths of the forest, during the winter night, when he and the European attempt to wile away the long hours, there comes over him at times a disposition to be commu- | nicative, and nothing will delight him more than narrating his experiences of the supernatural, of which he has generally a few sensational instances handy, and is generally prepared to listen to any fresh example, more especially if at all connected with forest life. My friend Mr. Edward Jack, the most experienced wilderness traveller in the province, informed me that he nearly terrified an old Indian out of his wits by assuring him that “a monster spirit had appeared close Lhdian Myths and Legends. 55 by, and demanded to know where the Indian was, as he desired to eat him,” at which the latter became so terrified that nothing subsequently would induce him to leave the camp fire after nightfall. I moreover well recollect another occasion when hunting Virginian deer with my excellent friends Colonels Anderson and Wetmore. We had settled down in a deserted shantie previous to beating a hard-wood forest, when the native, a brother of the Indian just referred to, after cooking our dinners and spreading the pine tops, on which we reclined under rugs, and having piled the logs on the fire for the night, betook himself, as usual, to his corner, whilst we chattered and talked until one after another fell asleep. However, from some cause or other (possibly being my first night in camp) rest would not come to me, so dozing and waking, I tossed about under the blanket. Besides, there were porcupines calling in the forest, and strange sounds like the breaking of dried twigs under feet, whilst mice kept pass- ing over me to feed on the refuse of our dinners. Restless and uncomfortable, I popped my head from under the rug to find Sabates, the Indian, seated, with pipe in mouth, intently gazing into the blazing fire. In a trice I was alongside of him, whilst my two friends snored in concert under their blankets. Talking of the porcupines, he assured me in the first place that their noises always preceded a thaw, and certainly such was our experience on the above occasion. Then reverting to the cracking of twigs, he would not posi- tively say what was the reason; perhaps a deer or a stray bear might be about; “there were sounds,” he said, “sometimes in the forest which no one could explain!” At last, from one thing to another, we got on ghosts, when Sabates warmed rapidly, and at once proceeded with a long narrative, the gist of which ran as follows. One night, when alone in a very unfrequented portion of the forest, where he had been hunting musk-rats, he was on the point of reclining under a little temporary cover made of branches of trees placed on 56 Field and Forest Rambles. uprights, when, to his utter astonishment, a female figure appeared in the gloom. before the fire. “Come now, Sabates,” said I, “you did not see her closely!” “T seed her,” replied Sabates, “as clear as I see you! And what do you think ?” he continued, “when I returned to my people, who live on the banks of the Schoodic Lakes, I found a squaw, one of my near relatives, had died on that very night!” ) , It is, however, scarcely fair to be hard on the heathen, when at the same time we find the white race indulging in similar if not more extravagant delusions. Thus, when I retorted to his narrative with a smile of incredulity, Sabates asked if “I had heard of the Monster of Utopia,’ which lake, as the crow flies, was not ten miles distant. We have already seen the archeological interest attached to the district, and in the sequel I will revert to its waters in connection with the brook trout; in the meantime I shall relate briefly a supernatural wonder connected with this beautiful forest loch. During midsummer, 1867, some lumbermen employed at a saw mill situate at the north end of the lake observed on one occasion that the waters, usually remarkably placid, were sud- denly disturbed by the splashing of some object, which certain individuals asserted was fully ten feet in breadth and about thirty in length. The most reliable of the witnesses informed me that, although he saw the water furiously disturbed in a circumscribed area of the above dimensions, he did not observe any object; and this I believe is the most correct statement. The entire phenomenon did not last above a minute, when the surface became smooth like the rest of the lake, which was remarkably tranquil at the time. During the two following days the same appearances were alleged to have been seen by other observers in different parts of the lake; and so posi- tive were the residents that some monstrous animal was the cause, that they set large hooks baited with salt fish and pork, and which I found attached to logs in various situations. The Monster of Lake Utopia. iy The credulous asserted that the slimy track of some huge animal had been traced from the ocean to the lake some ¢hzrty years ago! and we were considered adventurers in sailing on the lake so soon after the above occurrence. The question, however, came to be, “What was the real cause of the disturb- ance,’ for there could be no doubt that a remarkable appear- _ ance as regards the surface of the water did take place. The lake is picturesquely situated in a deep basin, surrounded by wooded hills, which are composed for the most part of red felspathic granite, the only direct communication with the sea being by canal and river, whilst the latter presents a barrier at its mouth over which it is absolutely impossible for stur- geons, or a fish of any sort, to make their way ; moreover the lake is only six miles in length by about one in breadth. We might suppose, therefore, sub-lacustrine rock fissures, con- taining air and water from the water-shed, suddenly opening in places ; or shoals of eels or fishes, such as are often observed in the case of the little sardine-like fish in the Mediterranean. Again, I have noticed, in secluded lakes in Thibet and Ladakh, that whirlwinds not unfrequently disturb parts of the surface, especially where cross currents of air from gorges meet; and this is the case on Lake Utopia. At all events, the monster was decidedly U7opzan in every sense. Returning to the natives. Any familiar objects or sounds seem to have always made lasting impressions on the Indian’s mind, and the more remarkable, the more likely were they to take a place in his wild legends and wilder mythologies. As examples—the night screech of the owl had to them a lin- guistic significance, and the squirrel’s continual chattering on the approach of man is accounted for in the following pretty fable. The red squirrel chooses the dense, dark forest of hemlock spruce among the moss-covered and rotting prostrate trunks where it sports about and stores up cones for winter; there came a belief among the ancient Indians of New Brunswick, 58 field and forest Rambles. x that the squirrel had been an enormous animal, but that one day an old man of the tribe was asked by the Great Spirit what he should most desire, and he replied, “To reduce the size of this giant squirrel!” Whereupon he received the divine mandate, and going forth from the council chamber, stretched out his hand, when the squirrel shrank to its present proportions: “therefore the result has been that the little crea- ture has ever since been querulous at the sight of man!” But there were other monster animals, according to their legends, besides this great mo, or squirrel. Stories are told of huge moose, beavers, and “the wonderful Great Turtle” !* How the snowy owl still laments the Golden Age when man and all animals lived in perfect amity, until it came to pass they began to quarrel, when the great immortal Glooscap, or Clotescarp, got disgusted, and sailed across the seas, to return when they made up their differences. So every night the owl repeats to this day his “Koo koo skoos’—“ Oh, I am sorry! oh, I am sorry!” Thus, whatever was strange or uncommon in the habits and appearances of animals, either in the production of fear, or calculated to excite curiosity in the savage’s mind, was sure to be utilized in one way or another : for example, the passenger pigeon was their ideal of “rapidity in movements;” the ungainly bear, jet black excepting a white mark on its chest, elicited a story of how the “beauty spot was produced.” The amphibious musk-rat was associated with “good actions,” as it furnished food and fur for winter. To this day fabulous tales are told of the “ Lhoks,” or “ Indian Devil,” and its ferocity, but unless the puma had at one time ranged over the New Brunswick forests, there is no other feline animal formidable enough to attack man. ” * The gigantic tortoise of the Hindoo mythology is a strange contrast to this myth of the American Indians, and whether in either case a chimera or not, it is remarkable that the imaginations of the two races were so concordant. For the above and other Indian traditions in connection with New Brunswick, see the interesting “ Wilderness Journeys,” by the Hon. H. Gordon, “ Vacation Tourists ” for 1862-63. ya line Animals of the Region. 59 According to Dekay,* the PUMA does not probably range further north than New York; but it may just be possible that “now and then an individual strays into the forests of this region. I have a record made by the late Dr. Robb, Professor of Natural History in the University of New Brunswick, of a large feline animal having attacked and nearly killed a man near the capital of the province in 1841, and he further states having seen the skin of a puma from the vicinity of Quebec. The ferocity-and cunning of the glutton has made it famous in more southern regions, but the animal is unknown within our boundaries. The Lynx is still plentiful, and the WILD CAT (ZL. 7fus) is not uncommon, but under the latter are included numerous domesticated varieties, which, when abandoned on the breaking up of the log camps and such-like, betake themselves to the feral life, and are frequently captured in traps set for sable and mink ; and asthe fur partakes of the richness of the wild feline, jet black sorts especially are valuable. It may be, moreover, that crosses take place between the wild and tame animal. The AMERICAN SABLE or PINE MARTEN is considered by certain authorities to be only a variety of the Russian sable, whilst others maintain specific distinctions. In dimensions, length of tail, coloration, and quality, or rather quantity of the fur, they assimilate pretty closely, only the density of the pile is most assuredly in favour of the Old World animal, as shown by their marketable values. But this difference is no doubt owing to climate, as the varieties in colouring are common to the denizens of both continents. The two sorts of skins familiarly known to Canadian trappers as the hard and soft wood sables, are so pronounced that dealers make distinctions in their prices.t * “Natural History of New York.” + The hard wood or light coloured skin usually fetch two dollars, while that of the dark or soft wood sable varies from two and a half to three dollars and upwards. 60 field and Forest Rambles. _ Natives and hunters state that the former, or the orange and saffron coloured sable, lives more or less in forests composed of deciduous leaved trees, and the latter in the dense pine woods. I can well believe that the exposure to light in the maple woods, as compared with the eternal gloom of the coni- ferous forest, would be sufficient to bring about these remark- able differences; indeed, looking at the advantages these colorations are to both—take, for example, in the autumn, when the ground is covered with the many yellow and red leaves of the various sorts of trees, then the black sable would be conspicuous when hunting, whereas the other would scarcely: be recognized. At all events, we must say that there is a predisposition to variation in the species, and that from whatever cause the same is apt to be continued and propo- gated by offspring, provided the parents are both similarly shaded. I have repeatedly arranged series of sable skins from one large forest tract composed of long stretches of nothing but coniferous trees, with only hard wood sparingly distributed throughout, when without difficulty I was enabled to form a regular gradation from one extreme to the other. Now, although it frequently takes place that the two sorts are met with in the same situation, this does not militate against the fact that the animals prey chiefly on squirrels, partridges, and the like, which repair to feed on the nuts, etc., that furnish their chief food in summer and autumn, as do the denizens of the coniferous region in winter, therefore we may fairly conclude that, if nature does select the animal best suited to the circumstances, she did wisely towards the sable, inasmuch as its means of subsistence are distributed over two districts very distinct as regards sunshine. With reference to physical features, we might go so far as to believe that supposing the pine forests should disappear, and only the maple, beech, birch, and so forth remain, in process of time the dark-coloured sable would become extinct. From abundant data I was enabled, as far as the New World animal is con- The American Sable and its Varieties. 61 cerned, to establish the following comparisons between its outward appearance and bony parts, with the denizen of northern Europe and Asia.* The average length of the American sable, as indicated from the very many specimens examined by me, is nineteen inches, exclusive of the tail, which averages six inches. The tail verte- bre do nearly extend to the end of the hind feet, which is also the case with the old world animal; nevertheless I observe Professor Baird stating + that in the specimens procured in the United States the feet reach only to the middle of the tail. The balls of the toes, as usual with its compeers, are densely covered with woolly hair in winter and are naked in summer. The skulls of the two agree in all particulars. In the orange and saffron varieties of Canada the upper parts are more or less orange, with dark tips to the hairs and shadings of the same extending down the back. The yellow occupies about three inches of the tail, the remainder being black, like the extremities. I observed that several skins procured in the same district showed a few white hairs at the tip, and in one in particular there was a conspicuous orange and white tuft at the distal extremity, thus showing a pre- disposition to a character common to many Carnivorous quadrupeds, both closely and remotely allied to the genus, or according to the doctrines advanced by Mr. Darwin.+ Are we to say it is a partial reversion to the colour of a common progenitor ? It seems that the lighter the upper parts of the Canadian sable, the more so are the lower; and the darker the pile, * J am indebted to my friend Lieutenant Sweeny, 22nd Regiment, an experienced and skilled trapper, for many opportunities of examining large collections of skins of the martens of northern New Brunswick, as well as numerous specimens of their skeletons, which he kindly procured for me ; also an interesting series of thirty-two sable skins from the hard and soft wood forests of the central part of the province. t ‘‘ United States Pacific Railway Report,” vol. viii., 152. } See “ Origin of Species,” “ Animals and Plants under Domestication,” and “ Descent of Man,” Jasszm. 62 Field and Forest Rambles. the more pronounced is the black dorsal stripe. The smallest specimens are generally the darkest, with often a greyish- white front patch, and only a faint tinge of yellow on the hips; in fact, the description of the Russian sable by Brandt * differs in no way as regards coloration from the sable of-this region. The hair on the head, neck, and throat -is bushy and very light coloured in winter, so that when the animal faces you the darker hind parts become more or less hidden, and thus advantageous towards sneaking on its prey. Moreover the margins and inside of the ears are pure white, giving a very attractive aspect to the handsome creature when on the alert. I fancy a hare would with difficulty discern the sable on snow when in this position. The orange throat patch is always varying both in richness and extent : some- times it is brilliant saffron, often with dark markings inter- mixed, and not unfrequently yellowish-white; at all events all the yellow seen on this marten attains the deepest hues on the throat patch, and on the flanks and sides of the belly, the first coming to a point between the fore legs. It is evident from the descriptions given by Baird of the American sable that the diagnosis he attempts to establish between it and the J7. Zzdellina will not apply to the animal found in this region, which in all particulars, excepting in the fur being less dense, is seemingly in no other respect different from the Asiatic and European animal,—at least, as described by the above eminent Russian zoologist. At most —~— = a i ee the American can only be called “a yellower or more yellowish brown, and less densely furred variety of the Asiatic sable ; it is surely not a distinct species, nor is the dark variety a pine marten (7. artes), seeing that specimens are as black as any described by European authors. Regarding the seasonal changes, as will be pointed out in the sequel, it is a general rule with all the quadrupeds of this region, either in the chang- * “Beitrage Saugethiere Russland,” 1855. The Black Minx and tts Varteties. 63 ing of colour or in the additional coat, that they are attained towards the end of October, and shed in March and April. The BLACK MINK was at one time very plentiful in the forests, but the Indian and trapper have made sad havoc in its numbers; moreover the future bodes badly, considering the increased demand for its fur; however, like others of its con- geners, the mink possesses an ardent attachment to localities, and may still be found close to towns and settlements. The first individual I saw was hunting for trout on a brook within a mile of the capital. Not perceiving me, it came within a few feet before discovering its mistake, when with an amount of nimbleness scarcely to be expected from its short legs, the handsome little creature bounded along the bank with the alacrity of the sable. From all accounts this and the Nurek (P. lutreola) of Siberia are much alike, only it is said the latter is smaller, with the edges of the upper lip white; but the mink varies a great deal in this respect. I found two out of eight captured on the Miramichi had the edges of the upper lip hoary ; moreover it is well known to traders and trappers there are two sizes independent of sex and apparently of age ; indeed, so marked is this that many dealers consider them two distinct animals, the larger being obtained near the sea coast. The last statement, however, may not be altogether correct ;’ still I found among hundreds of skins so much discrepancy in dimension, that there need be no hesitation in accepting the statement above given. ‘Thus, after making allowances for the overstretching, I have noted two sets averaging thirteen and sixteen inches in length, exclusive of the tail. Like the sable, it is subject to varieties, but only in respect to the white on the lower parts, which is often entirely wanting ; but many have longitudinal white stripes on the belly, and even a cru- ciform band of the same colour. The smaller weasels of America have been entirely sepa- rated from European allied forms, but no doubt in many cases 64 Field and Forest Rambles. on questionable grounds. The COMMON WHITE WEASEL of this continent, named Putorius Richardsonti, is most dis- tinctly allied to the Ermine, so closely that several skulls and skins from this region fail in my hands to show any appreciable distinction, with the exception that the fur of the American ermine is not so rich as that of northern Europe. I have not seen specimens of the so-called New York ermine, from the New England States, but as far as the latest and most ac- curate descriptions extend there is seemingly no well-marked difference between it and the 7. Rzchardsonit, perhaps only what would arise from climate. I have examined several fine specimens of the ermine of New Brunswick, one of which in the flesh measured six and three-quarter inches, exclusive of the tail, which was seven inches.* The most common and widely distributed of Acadian mar- tens is a little brown weasel, which agrees better with the 7. Cicognontt of authors than any other recorded species, but only in dimensions ; for whilst I have seen no full-grown indi- viduals so small as the 7. Puszllus of Audubon, I have before me specimens apparently in no ways different from the so- called New York Ermine, either as regards size or colouring ; but seeing that there is already great confusion engendered by -European and American naturalists in regard to the specific characters of the above, I shall enter more into details. The Little Brown Weasel of New Brunswick varies from nine to nine and three-quarters inches in length, inclusive of the tail, which is from ‘two and a half to three inches to the extremity of its vertebrz, and about one-fourth of the entire length of the animal. The hind legs stretched to their fullest extent do not come within half an inch of the last caudal vertebree. The black of the tail extends for fully * The sulphur yellow tinge conspicuous in this as in other allied species which turn white in winter, being localized to the hips and lower. parts, appears to be owing to emissions from the stench bag, the contents of which are of that colour, just as the red of the hair in the inner sides of the legs of the Red Deer and other mammals is caused by urine. Weasels, the Ermine, and Pekan. 65 half an inch beyond the tip. This weasel is brown above in summer, with white upper lips and lower parts, the latter more or less tinged with sulphur-yellow; the hairs on the dorsum of the feet greyish-brown ; tail always tipped with black for about two inches. The winter pilage is white, with the yellowish tinge on the hips and belly. The tubercles of the feet are obscured by hair in winter, and to a less extent in summer. As regards its summer pilage and size, it is closely allied to the European weasel (7. vulgaris). | The winter coat shows a dense woolly fur, which is rapidly attained—indeed, so soon that I have seen it completed in the course of two weeks after the first fall of snow, when, as in many of the other indigenous quadrupeds and birds, there is also an absolute increase in the weight, caused by additional layers of fat all over the body. It is said to bring forth four to five young at each litter, and breeds two to three times during the year, which accounts for the plentiful distribution of the species.