Composition of Cooked Fish Dishes CIRCULAR 29 Fish and Wildlife Service John L. Farley, Director United States Department of the Interior Douglas McKay, Secretary Composition of Cooked Fish Dishes CIRCULAR 29 Fish and Wildlife Service John L. Farley, Director United States Department of the Interior Douglas McKay, Secretary ABSTOACT Table 1 lists the content of protein, fat, carbohydrate, and ash, and the caloric value, per hundred grams and per serving portion, for 161 dishes containing many of the common varieties of fish and shell- fish. Table 2 lists the major ingre- dients used in the dishes. Informa- tion is included on how the data on food values can be used for dishes containing other fish or shellfish than those specifically mentioned. For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Oovemment Printing Office Washington 25, D. C. - Price 25 cents CQtJPOSITION OF COOKED FISH DISHES Proximate Analysis of Dishes Containing Fish and Shellfish By Charles Fo Lee, Chemical Engineer Fishery Technological Laboratory, Branch of Commercial Fisheries Recently there has been a growing demand by physicians, dietitians, nutritionists, and others for information on the composition of foods. The tables in this report are a contribution towards supplying this need, par- ticularly with respect to cooked or prepared fish and shellfish dishes. Rose G« Kerr, Jean Burtis, Dorothy M, Robey, and Nancy L. Shipley, home economists. Fish and Wildlife Service test kitchen at College Park, prepared the recipes, gathered data on size of serving portions, and selected many of the samples to be analysed, REVIEW OF LITEPJ^TURE The first extensive study of the proximate composition of foods vcas made by Atwater and associates (1888, 1899, and 1906) of the United States Depart- ment of Agriculture, A study of the tables on composition of foods in several books (Leach et al. 1920; Sherman 1924; Winton et ^, 1937) still in use reveals that there have been revisions and additions to these data in the intervening years. However, much of the data on composition of fish has come down, through frequent repetition in various reports, from the original investigations that Atwater made before 1890, These reports contained data on the raw flesh of 64 species of fish including 11 types of shellfish, and in this respect are still the most comprehensive studies on the composition of fish. The most recent release of the series of publications by the United States Department of Agriculture on the composition of foods is Handbook No, 8 by Watt and collaborators (1950). This publication lists data from many sources on proximate composition and on the content of calcium, phosphorus, iron, and some of the vitamins for 751 foods of all kinds, raw, processed, and prepared. In these lists, fish are represented by 48 analyses including 28 species. Twenty of these analyses are of raw fish, 20 are of processed fish, and 8 are of cooked fish. Of these last 2 groups, 2 are canned clam chowders and 2 are oyster stews. A similar British publication by McCance and Widdowson (1947) contains 90 analyses of fish including 50 species among 609 listings for foods of all types. Although the data are based on experimental work in England, some of the material is useful in the United States, The information on the com- position of fish, however, demonstrates the difficulty of utilizing the results of foreign investigations in this field; of the 50 species included in the table, 28 are fish (like skate, dogfish, monkfish, John dory, and gurnards) that are seldom used commercially in this country, though found here; or they are species (like torsk, megrim, pollan, and witch) that are not found at all in domestic markets, India, Spain, Japan, and the Scandinavian countries have also been active recently in the field of fishery research, but it is to be expected that an even smaller proportion of the data from those sources would concern species used in the United States, The book by McCance and Widdowson reflects to a greater extent than the Department of Agriculture Handbook a growing tendency to provide data on cooked rather than raw fish. It lists 77 analyses of cooked fish dishes and only 13 analyses of the raw flesh. The methods of cooking are the ones in common use for the species concerned. Generally, they involve minimum amounts of other ingredients. Steaming and frying seem to be the most popular methods of preparation. Frying is usually preceded by a dip in batter, crumbs, oatmeal, or flour, with carbohydrate, fat, and some protein added in the process. Almost all earlier investigations on the composition of fish have been carried out on -the raw flesh. These data have been valuable for interspecies comparison and for study of changes in composition due to environmental factors, but are of little direct value to the dietitian. It is desirable for uses in nutrition to obtain inforroation directly with cooked fish and fish dishesp since cooking causes important chajiges in composition, and cooked or prepared dishes may include many other ingredients besides fish. Since fish are almost never eaten raw in this country, only information on these cooked dishes will be of direct value to dietitians and related groups. This report contains only data on dishes containing fish or shellfish that have been cooked and are ready to eat, SOURCE OF SAMPLES The number of species of commercially important fish is very large. Esti- mates range from 120 to 200 species, depending on what is included in the tenn "fish" and also on the definition of "commercial," Likewise, the nianber of nutrient elements considered important is large, having increased greatly since the days of Atwater, At the present time, a complete study of the nutritive factors of even a single species of fish would be a major project, as it should include the determination of the content of five or more mineral elements and at least as many vitamins, as well as the usual proximate-analysis componentso When the scope of an investigation is extended to cooked fish dishes, almost infinite variety is introduced by cooking variables and recipe modifications. With these facts in mind, the lack of information on nutrients in cooked fish dishes is understandable, and the impossibility of complete coverage of the field is obvious. All of the samples for analysis in this investigation have been the fish dishes prepared by the staff of home economists of the Fish and Wildlife Service test kitchen at College Park, This has resulted in what might appear to be odd emphasis on certain species. The function of the staff of home economists is to modify and improve old recipes and develop and test new recipes. Minor functions include retesting of recipes developed in the Fish and Wildlife Service test kitchens at Seattle, Wash,, and Ketchikan, Alaska, and conducting short training programs for foreign exchange students. All of these functions have contributed samples included herein, but the bulk of the samples were derived from special test programs. The large groups of crab and shrimp recipes were prepared while information was being compiled for special cookbooks on these -2- shellfish, Tilefish, ocean perch, "little tuna," and California sardine were subjects of less extensive special studies. These 6 species account for 93 of the l6l dishes included. Fresh-water fish were represented by only 1 species. Thus, the number of analyses reported for the various species has no relation to the commercial importance of the species. Actually, selection of species to be included makes very little difference in maqy of the recipes, especially for a lean species or for a dish in which the fish is a relatively minor ingredient in the recipe. In such cases very nearly the same data on composition are obtained even though a number of different species of fish are used. Analyses were limited to the determination of the usual proximate com- ponents: moisture, protein, fat, ash, and carbohydrate. The last was deter- mined by difference. Inclusion of analyses for vitamins and mineral elements would have required limitation of the samples studied to a very small fraction of the samples included in the original series, and it was felt that greater value would be derived from proximate composition of a much larger and more representative group of samples, METHODS OF SAMPLING AND ANALYSIS Sampling — The method of sampling was influenced by the source of samples. As test-kitchen dishes, their primary purpose was for use in palatability tests by taste pajiels. They were judged for appearance, flavor, and texture. Ideal sampling for chemical tests would require grinding and mixing the entire dish before removal of sample aliquots. In the present investigation, the dish as served to the taste panel was necessarily also the source of samples for cinal- ysis. Consequently, from 10 to 20 percent or usually about 15 percent of the dish was available for testing. Roughly one serving portion was used in most instances. For such dishes as loaves, cakes, fritters, and most casseiroles and salads, the ingredients were reasonably well mixed and this condition did not impose undue sampling error. For such dishes as soups, chowders, stews, stuffed fish, and curries or Creoles, vrtiere a fish mixture is served in a rice idng, removal of a representative sample was difficult, and a greater range in analysis of duplicate samples was observed for dishes of this type. The variability introduced in this way was smaller than would be expected, judged by the few dishes of this type for which 4 to 6 samples were available. Values that appeared to have appreciable sampling bias have been omitted frcan the averages. All values recorded in the tables have been rounded to the nearest one- tenth of a gram. Grinding — A small hand or power grinder was used for most samples, and the ground material was passed through 2 or more times to improve mixing. The consistency of some samples such as chowders, bisques, and stews permitted the use of a blender for disintegration. Moisture — From 5 to 15 grams of the ground and mixed samples were weighed in aluminum drying cans and dried overnight, about 20 hours, in an air oven at 105° C, The loss in weight was reported as moisture. Triplicate analyses normally checked within 0,5 percent, -3- Fat — The oven-dried samples from the moisture determination were com- bined for the determination of the fat content. The dry material was scraped loose, washed with ether into a large thimble, and extracted with ethyl ether in a Soxhlet extractor for 8 hoiirso The solvent was evaporated and the residue was dried for 30 minutes at 105° C. before being weighed,' The major portion of the fat in most samples was from cream, milk, cheese, butter, or cooking fat and was readily extracted, since these types of fat do not oxidize appreciably during drying at this temperature© Protein — Triplicate samples estimated to require about 10 ml, of 0,2 N hydrochloric acid each on titration were digested in 300 ml» Kjeldahl flasks with 15 ml, of sulfuric acid, 7 to 8 grams of sodium sulfate, and a small amount of copper sulfate as catalyst. The ammonia was collected in a 4-per- cent solution of boric acid and titrated directly. The usual factor of 6»25 was used to calculate the percent of protein. Mineral matter — Duplicate samples of 5 to 15 grams were weighed rapidly in tared porcelain evaporating dishes. The samples were dried at about 250'' C, in a muffle furnace equipped with a heat control. The heat was increased to 350° to 400° C, to char and drive off volatile matter and was then held at 600° C, until the ash was light in color. Check analyses wei^ usually within 0,03 percent, except when bone fragjnents were present. Carbohydrate — Totail carbohydrate was calculated as the difference between 100 percent and the simi of the percent of moisture, protein, fat, and mineral matter. This value includes the small amounts of crude fiber, organic acids, aiid other miscellajaeous substances that are present. Food energy — The calories per 100 grams were calculated using the values of 4» 9> and 4 calories per gram for protein, fat, and carbohydrate, respect- ively. Serving portions — Information on the size of individual serving portions, their food-energy value, and their content of protein, fat, and carbohydrate is of practical value to dietitians or clinicians. These data are tabulated in the right-hand section of table 1, The most commonly used estimate of a serving portion of fish, 125 grams or 4 ounces, refers to an average serving of fried or broiled fillet or steak cind has little significance for most of the dishes included in the ~table« Fortunately, most of the dishes were prepared on a 6- serving-portion basis, so that the size of an average portion was easily determined by dividing net weight of the cooked dish by 6, Serving portions were estimated on the basis of similsu? recipes for the few dishes for which data on net cooked weight were lackingo Table 1 includes several samples of canapes and hors d'oeuvres which differ from the main-dish-of-the-meal type of dish in that they are more of a "snack" or extra. For this type, the serving portion was based on the unit weight per snack rather than on a 6-portion basis. Although the portions are small, usuailly 20 to 40 grams, this type is frequently very high in energy value, so that even these small portions contribute significantly to the dieto -4- All values for calories and size of serving portion have been rounded to the nearest multiple of 5» This approximates the practical significance of these data* DISCUSSION OF DATA In table 1, the dishes are listed under the species of fish or shellfish that they contain. The species are listed alphabetically under the main headings of marine fish, fi*esh-water fish, and shellfish. Recipes are numbered consecutively throughout. The recipe names are those in common use for the dish and in most cases are sufficiently descriptive, but in table 2, under the same number and recipe name^ the major ingredients of each dish are listed. This section will be of value chiefly where ambiguous names and less familiar dishes are used. All recipes with the exception of the hors d'oeuvres are based on 6-serving portions. Uinor ingredients, mainly seasonings, were considered to be any con^onents used in less than tablespoon quantities and have been oodtted, as have all cooking directions. These eliminations were considered practical, since this information is common knowledge to the home economists and the nutritionists for which this section is intended. Additional information on recipes is contained in a series of publications of the Fish and Wildlife Service. An attempt has been made to list the usual market forms with the name of each species. It is evident that all market forms cannot be used interchange- ably in every recipe. Canned pollock flakes, for example, cannot substitute for pollock fillets with almond sauce. These exceptions are self-evident, and the simplicity derived from elimination of separate listings for all market forms and for subspecies more than offset any possible confusion from this source. The grouping of fish dishes under the species was felt to be the form permitting maximum ease of reference, but it might again be emphasized that species varying insignificantly in proximate composition can be used inter- changeably in a given recipe with no significant effect t^jon the proximate composition or the energy value of the dish. Consideration of this fact will broaden the application of the table to the extent that every dish has not been tried with each species. For example, weight-for-weight quantities of the following species of lean fish may safely be used interchangeably in any recipe listed under any one of the species: cod, flounder, haddock, ocean perch, pollock, west-coast rockfish, and tilefish. In the group of moderately fat fish are included black sea bass, striped bass, bluefish, halibut, shad, some species of salmon, and swordfish. The fat content of these species will show somewhat more variation than any proximate component of the preceding group. However, species substitution in recipes listed for this group of fish will have little effect on proximate composition except in eases where the fish is the major component of the dish. It is apparent from the preceding paragraphs that a grouping of more nutritional significance than that by species of fish would be one based on -5- protein content. Total protein ranges from a high of 28 percent for broiled or fried fish down to 3 percent in some chowders that have both a low solids content and a high proportion of vegetable ingredientso Based on protein content, fish dishes can be divided into four broad groins as follows: 1, Protein 21 to 28 percent: Fish is the major ingredient, with minor amounts of added sauce, crumbs, or fat« Examples - Baked, fried, or broiled steaks or fillets, with sauce or stuffing as indicated; kabobs, except those including tomato, 2» Protein 14 to 21 percent: These dishes have fish as the major ingre- dient, but with a greater proportion of other ingredients. Eggs are frequently included as a contributing protein source of nutritional importance. Examples - Stuffed fish and fillets with larger proportions of sauce and stuff- ing; kabobs with tomato; au gratin dishes; some casseroles and salads especially those including eggs; fish cakes aind loaves in which the proportion of crumbs, potato, or rice filler is not excessive, 3. Protein 9 to 14 percent: In this group the carbohydrate foods like bread, potato, rice, or crumbs are usually high in proportion to the fish; included also are dishes, such as salads and souffles, in which the total solids are comparatively low because of the large amounts of milk or vegetables used. Examples - Fish cakes and loaves not included in groi^) 2; sandwiches and canapes; most of the hors d'oeuvres; most of the casserole dishes; salads (except those with eggs, group 2, and the jellied salads, group 4); most of the special dishes such as the a la kings, Newbergs, and thermidors, 4. Protein 3 to 9 percent: In this group are the dishes in urtiich the fish is diluted with large proportions of milk, tomato, gelatin, or starchy ingre- dients. Examples - Almost all the chowders, stews, soups, and bisques, with low solids content; salads with a gelatin base; Creoles, curries, and jambalayas with a large proportion of rice. The fat content of fish dishes shows an even greater extreme range than does the protein content. A few dishes such as aspic salads, kabobs, and loaves, or lean fish baked with tomato sauce, have less than 2 percent fat. At the other extreme, baked filled pastries and some of the fried fish dishes contain as much as 20 percent fat (30.7 percent in one case). However, the great majority of fish dishes are in a middle range, having a fat content of 6 to 13 percent, so that a broad classification of the dishes by fat content is not as practical as the grouping according to the protein content. The carbohydrate content of fish dishes is determined entirely by the nonfish ingredients, since, with the exception of oysters and other shellfish containing glycogen, fish contsdn virtually no carbohydrate. Consequently, carbohydrates range from zero for fish baked or broiled without crumbs, up to as much as 17 to 25 percent for pastries, bread dishes, and fritters. The fillers most canmonly used are bread crumbs, rice, spaghetti or noodles, asid potatoes. The proportions in which they are usually blended result in a carbohydrate content of 6 to 12 percent, - 6 - The energy vailue per 100 grams of the fish dishes ranged from about 70 or 75 calories for some chowders to 350 calories for pastries, fritters, auid a few other dishes with both a high dr7>-matter amd fat content. Gen- erally, the size of serving portion and energy value appeared to vary in an inverse ratio. That is, high-energy dishes were usually served in small portion and vice versa. As a result, the energy value per serving portion for most of the dishes, exclusive of the hors d'oeuvres, was in a middle range of from 150 to 250 calories, SUMMARY Data are tabulated in table 1 for the proximate composition, energy value, and size of serving portion for a large number of different cooked or prepared dishes containing fish or shellfish. Table 1 also includes data on the protein, fat, carbohydrate content, and energy value, on a serving- portion basis. The analyses in table 1 have been classified according to the species of fish or shellfish used, A classification of dishes according to their protein content is of greater nutritional significance, and a general descrip- tive grouping by type of dish and recipe name within 4 ranges of protein content between the extremes of 3 to 28 percent has been indicated. Recipe information, as regards ingredients used in amounts of moi^ than 1 tablespoon, is listed in table 2, LITERATURE CITED AWATER, W. 0. 1888, The chemical composition and nutritive values of food fishes and aquatic invertebrates, U, S. C(ftmiission of Fish and Fisheries, Annual Report, pp, 679-868« AlWATER, W. 0., and A. P. BRYANT 1899. Revised 1906, The chemical composition of American food materials, U. S, Department of Agriculture, Office of E^^jeriment Stations, Bulletin 28, 50 pp, BURTIS, JEAN, and ROSE G. KERR 1952, Tilefish recipes, U, S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Fishery Leaflet 404. 3 pp. 1952ao How to cook shrimp, U, S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Test Kitchen Series No, 7, 13 PP« FISH AND WILDLIFE SERVICE 1948, Sauces for seafoods* Fishery Leaflet 53« 4 PP» 1952, Fish recipes for school lunches, (In cooperation with U, S, Depart- ment of Agriculture), Test Kitchen Series No, 5« 15 PP« KERR, ROSE G* 1950, Fish cookery for one hundred, U« S, Fish and Wildlife Service, Test Kitchen Series No, 1. 44 PP» -7- 1950a, Basic fish cookery, U« S« Fish and Wildlife Service, Test Kitchen Series No, 2, 26 pp» 1951, Cod — beef of the sea, U, S, Fish and Wildlife Service, Fishery Leaflet 269. 7 pp# KERR, ROSE G., and JEAN BURTIS 1950, How to cook oysters, U» S, Fish and Wildlife Service, Test Kitchen Series No, 3« 13 PP* LEACH, A. E., and A. L. WINTON 1920, Food inspection and analysis. Fourth Edition, John Wiley and Sons, New York. 1090 pp, McCANCE, R. A., and E. M. WIDD0;VS0N 1947c The cheniical composition of foods. Second Edition, Chemical Publishing Co,, Brooklyn, NoY, 156 pp, OSIERHAUG, KATHRYN L. 1952, King crab recipes, U, S, Fish and Wildlife Service, Commercial Fisheries Review, vol, 14, No, 2, pp. 43-45, Also as Separate No. 308, 3 pp. OSTERHAUG, KATHRYN L. and ROSE G. KERR 1952, How to cook salmon, U, S» Fish and Wildlife Service, Test Kitchen Series No, 4« 18 ppo 1953 o How to cook clams. U. S, Fish and Wildlife Service, Test Kitchen Series No, 8, 14 pp, ROBEY, DOROIHYM., and ROSE G. KERR 1952, How to cook ocean perch, U, S, Fish and Wildlife Service, Test Kitchen Series ^too 6, 10 pp, SHEMAN, H. C. 1924, Food products. Second Edition, The Maanillan Co,, New York, 687 pp. WATTS, B. K., and A. L. MERRILL with collaborators 1950. Composition of foods - raw, processed, prepared. U. S, Depai^tment of Agriculture, Agriculture Handbook No. 8, 14? pp, WINTON, A. L.,and K. B. WINTON 1937. The structure and composition of foods, vol, 3. 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O ^ -tJ •H a) b s x: o CO 6-" e. C-- 00 O O rH Table 2 — Major ingredients of fish dishes, cross referenced to table 1, tabulating proximate composition In general, only ingredients of the recipes used in quantities of one table- spoon or more have been listed, since lesser amounts have negligible influence on the proximate composition or food value. This means that almost all seasonings, such as salt, pepper, cayenne, nutmeg, mustard, horse radish, curry powder, and Worcestershire and tobasco sauces, are omitted. Marine Fish Bass, black sea, fresh or frozen (1) Baked stuffed sea bass fillets 2 pounds sea bass fillets 3 slices bacon 1/4 cup butter or other fat Bread stuffing 3 tablespoons chopped onion 3/4 cup chopped celery 6 tablespoons butter or other fat 4 cups soft bread cubes Bass, striped, fresh or frozen (2) Baked striped bass fillets with shrimp stuffing 2 pounds striped bass fillets Shrimp stuffing 1/2 pound shrimp, fresh or frozen 1/4 cup chopped onion 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons butter or other fat 1 egg, beaten 2 tablespoons milk 3 cups soft bread cubes (3) Oven-fried striped bass fillets 2 pounds striped bass fillets 1 cup milk 1 tablespoon salt 1 cup dry bread crumbs 1/4 cup butter or other fat Bluefish, fresh or frozen (4) Baked bluefish fillets 2 pounds bluefish fillets 1/4 cup butter or other fat 2 tablespoons lemon juice (5) Broiled bluefish fillets 2 pounds bluefish fillets 1/4 cup butter or other fat (6) Fried bluefish fillets 2 pounds bluefish fillets 1 egg, beaten 1 tablespoon milk or water 1 cup dry bread crumbs (7) Steamed bluefish fillets with shrimp sauce 2 pounds bluefish fillets Shrimp sauce 1/2 pound cooked shrimp 2 tablespoons butter or other fat 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup milk 3 hard-cooked eggs, chopped Cod, fresh, frozen or canned flakes (8) Cod fillets baked in Spanish sauce 2 pounds cod fillets Spanish sauce 1/4 cup chopped onion 3 tablespoons butter or other fat 2 tablespoons flour 2 cups canned tomatoes 1/4 cup chopped green pepper (9) Cod kabobs 2 pounds cod fillets 6 slices bacon 4 tomatoes 1/4 cup French dressing (10) Cod kabobs with tomato sauce 2 pounds cod fillets 1 cup tomato catsup \/k cup brown sugar 1/4 cup vinegar 6 tablespoons butter or other fat (11) Cod rice loaf 1 14-ounce can flaked cod 1/3 cup uncooked rice 3/4 cup water 1 cup milk 1 cup soft bread cubes 5 eggs, beaten 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1 taole spoon lemon juice Flounder, fresh or frozen (12) BaJ