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FLORA CALPENSIS

LONDON :
E. NEWMAN, PUINTEK, DEVONSHIRE STREET, BISHOPSOATR.

Digitized by the Internet Archive

in 2007 with funding from

IVIicrosoft Corporation

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FLORA CALPENSIS.

CONTRIBUTIONS

BOTANY AND TOPOGRAPHY

GIBRALTAR

AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD:

WITH PLAN, AND VIEWS OF THE ROCK.

BY

E. F. KELAART, M.D., F.L.S., F.G.S.,

(army medicai, staff);

fellow and local secretary of the botanical society of edinborgu; and
corresponding member of the zoological society of london.

Nihil est aliud magnum quam multa minuta."

LONDON :
JOHN VAN VOORST, 1, PATERNOSTER-ROW.

SOLD AT GIBRALTAR BY MR. KING, GARRISON LIBRARY.

M.DCCC.XLVL

LIBRxi:

" Par la richesse de la recolte que je fis en peu d'instants, je pus
juger de I'interet qu'ofFrirait une exploration complete de Gibraltar de
ce c6te-ci surtout, et en le visitant a des epoques difFerentes. Je suis
etonne qu'un travail semblable n'ait pas ele deja entrepris par quel-
qu'un des officiers de la gamison." — Boissier,

" Amongst the advantages enjoyed by the medical ofl&cers of the
army, the opportunity which the service affords of visiting distant
countries may justly be ranked as one of the most considerable, com-
bining the pleasure and profit of travel with professional duties and
culture ; so that individuals, if intent on self-improvement, may derive
at the same time a double benefit." — Ih-. Davi/.

TO

SIR JAMES M'GRIGOR, BART., M.D., F.R.S.,

DIRECTOR GENERAL,
ARMY MEDICAL DEPARTMENT,

THIS HUMBLE PRODUCTION OF LEISURE HOURS

IS, BY PERMISSION,

RESPECPFULLY DEDICATED,

BY HIS OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT

EDWARD FRED. KELAART.

INTRODUCTION

As Gibraltar has so often been described by various
writers, the reader will perhaps be disappointed in
not finding in my topographical observations any
sufficient reason for another account of the far-famed
rock ; however, as the object of the present work is
to give an outline of important and interesting facts,
and to combine the purposes of general utiHty, as
well as to satisfy the curiosity of the naturahst, it is
to be hoped that so far the author has succeeded in
his wishes. The elaborate works of Dr. Hennen,
Montgomery Martin, and Drinkwater, and several
others of less note, may be consulted with great
satisfaction by those who are curious to know more of
this important and powerful fortress. I regret that
Mr. Smith's geological account of the rock was not
published until most of this work had been printed.

VIU INTRODUCTION.

and consequently I have not been able to introduce
more of the important matter to be found in that
excellent memoir.*

Finding, on my arrival in Gibraltar, in the latter
part of 1843, an interesting and almost unexplored
field for botanical research, in accordance with the
suggestions of many valued friends, I undertook the
formation of a Catalogue of Plants growing on the
rock and in its neighbourhood. Tlie want of books
protracted my labours, and it was not till I happily
made the acquaintance of M. Prolongo, of Malaga,
the friend and frequent companion of Ed. Boissier, in
his tour in Spain, that I was able to pm-sue my
researches with comparative faciUty. This gentle-
man, with great liberality and kindness, lent me
several works fi'om his botanical library, for which
I cannot feel too much indebted. My duties as a
medical officer of the garrison of Gibraltar for the
short period of two years, prevented my making
distant excursions into the interior of Spain or Bar-
bary. The few 1 made were confined to the imme-
diate vicinities of Gibraltar, Malaga, Granada, and

* Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society for
February, 1846.

INTRODUCTION. IX

Tangier : the latter place I visited at a period of the
year when vegetation was on the decline, hut many
plants common to Spain and Africa were still in flower.

To those kind friends who were my companions
in my hotanical excursions and researches, more
particularly to Dr. Dumhreck, 72nd Highlanders,
Mr. Scott, of the Royal Engineers, Captain Rohinson,
of the 72nd Highlanders, and Captain Aylmer, of
the Royal Artillery, I have to express the infinite
pleasure I derived from their society on these occa-
sions; and I doubt not they will join me in con-
sidering Botany as a liarmless and profitable means
of relieving the dull monotony of a garrison life.
To brethren of my own profession in Gibraltar, who
may hereafter follow in the same path, I would
recommend the devotion of their leisure hours to
researches in a field as yet unexhausted, notwith-
standing the discouragement they may meet with in
the course of their investigations ; and I hope to
receive from them and others whose hands this
little book may reach, that indulgence which is to
be expected fi'om generous minds.

The south of Spain was almost a terra incognita

X INTRODUCTION.

to the botanist, till Webb and Edmund Boissier
made their toui's, and published the fruits of their
labours. The botanical riches of Gibraltar have not
received, however, the exclusive attention of any
botanical vrriter, for, with the exception of a small
Hst of plants made by Von Martins and Spix, on their
way to the Brazils, I have not met with any correct
account. James, in his ' History of the Herculean
Straits,' enumerates in English names upwards of
three hundred plants met with on the rock, including
neai'ly all the plants found in vegetable and flower-
gardens ; but this list barely satisfies the curiosity of
the general reader.

All local Floras possess that interest which is inse-
parable from the beauty and order observed in the
works of the Creator, and the Flora of Gibraltar may
be ranked among the first of those showing the natu-
ral links observed in the geographical distribution of
plants, especially as the botany of the south of Spain
is not generally known. The comparative botanist
will find among the plants of Spain many which ai-e
also common to the Mediterranean coasts of Afiica
and Asia Minor. In this respect Gibraltar, being
only a portion of the Peninsula, affords an opportu-

INTRODUCTION. XI

nity of showing the extent of this similarity, and I
have endeavoured to exhibit it in the habitats given
to the plants enumerated in the Synopsis, for which I
am chiefly indebted to Boissier's work on the plants
of the south of Spain, — a work of such acknowledged
reputation, that it would be superfluous in me to
recommend it to the botanists in Gibraltar.

In the ' Synopsis of Plants' are enumerated 456
species of flowering plants and fenis indigenous to
Gibraltar, and 44 species which are cultivated or
introduced. As far as the extent of my enquiry has
enabled me to judge, the 456 species indigenous to
the rock, may be classed mider the following heads : —
40 species generally distributed through Europe.

58 natives of the south of Europe.

63 common to Europe and Africa.

1 74 common to the south of Em-ope and

Africa.

13 confined to Spain and Barbary.

96 common to Europe, Asia Minor,

and North of Africa.

1 2 confined to Europe and Asia Minor.

Among these are 140 species common to Great Bri-
tain; 170 species aie found to grow in Madeiia

Xll INTRODUCTION.

(Dr. Lemann) ; and nearly as many in the Canary
Isles; 160 species in Sicily; more than two-thirds
in Malta ; and, according to Seubert*s Catalogue, 73
species are also indigenous to the Azores.

The orders which contain the most numerous
species are the following ; — Cruciferae, Caryophylleae,
Legiuninosae, UmbelHferse, Compositse, Boragineae,
Scrophulariese, Labiatse, Gramineae.

Although there are so many plants in Gibraltar,
only one is peculiar to the rock, viz. Iheris Gihral-
tarica ; and this too may perhaps some day be found
on the opposite coast of Africa. The several plants
which owe their specific name to Gibraltar are also
found in other parts of Spain, though not so
frequently, viz. Cerastium Gihraltaricum, Ononis
Gihraltarica, Bupleurum Gihrallaricum, Silene Gib-
raltarica. There are a few varieties of species
hitherto met with only in Gibraltar, such as the
variety of Saxifraga glohulifera. It would almost
be a work of supererogation to describe the peculiari-
ties of each natural order of plants found in Gibral-
tar ; this will be best attained by a reference to the
Synopsis. I have not thought it necessary to give the

INTRODUCTION. XUl

synonyms to every plant, but only to a few, where
I thought it would be expected by the local botanist,
who cannot have reference to new and expensive
works ; and who will, I trust, also find his inquiries
facilitated by the observations, which were chiefly
addressed to those Mends who honoured me with
their presence when my humble attempts were made
to diff*use a botanical taste, in my discourses at the
residence of the Archdeacon of Gibraltar, the Rev.
Dr. Bunow, on those occasions when that zealous
cultivator of natm^al science entertained the ladies
and gentlemen of the rock with literary and scientific
subjects.

In Part IV. I have endeavoured to give a short
account of the topography and vegetation of the
neighbourhood of Gibraltar, which may also be use-
ful to the botanist who may extend his inquiries
further into Spain.

The Appendix contains a translation of Boissier's
description of the vegetation of Gibraltar, which can-
not be too widely circulated ; and I doubt not that it
will be read with great interest, as also his description
of new plants.

XIV INTRODUCTION.

I am indebted to a kind friend for the sketches of
the rock ; and as they are only intended to give the
geologist an idea of the nature of its configura-
tion, there is no attempt to display artistical skill ;
for this the reader must inspect the forthcoming
* Select Views of the Rock and Fortress of
Gibraltar/ by Captain Carter, late of the Royals,
who has exceeded every other amateur in the fidelity
and beauty of the sketches of this rock, which, though
small in extent, affords ample opportunities for a
skilful artist '* to furnish a vivid representation of the
chief features of this giant fortress, where the triumph
of science is only surpassed by the grandeur of
nature, and where the majesty of British power
stands pre-eminently foreshadowed."

E. F. KELAART.

CONTENTS.

PART I.
TOPOGRAPHY OF GIBRALTAR.

Chapter I.

Early history of the rock, and its importance to Great
Britain, 1 — Geographical position, 3 — External charac-
ters, 4 — Neutral-ground, 5 — Geological description of
the rock, 8 — St. Michael's cave, 9 — Geological history
of the rock, Mr. Smith's opinions, 17 — Sources of water,
20 — Rain, 21 — Meteorological observations and reports,
23, 24 — Easterly winds, 28 — Climate, 30 — Gibraltar as
a sanatorium, 31 — Effects of Gibraltar climate upon
consumptive patients, 31 — Sources of diseases, 32 — Yel-
low fever, 33— Fever on board H. M. ships Caledonia
and Formidable, 35 — Cerebral disease (epidemic cerehro
rachidian meningitis)^ 37 — Erysipelas, &c., 38.

Chapter II.

Description of the town, 39 — Cathedral, court-house, gar-
rison library, Moorish castle, military hospital, civil
hospital, &c., 41 to 44 — Convict establishment, 45 —
South-district, 45 — Catalan-bay, 46 — Civil population,
47 — Military, 50 — Temperance coffee-room, 51 — Mar-
ket, 51 — Government, &c., 52.

XVI CONTENTS.

PART II.

BOTANY OF GIBRALTAR.

Barren appearance of the rock from the straits, 55— Vege-
tation, 56 — In the Alameda gardens, 56 — Road to
Europa, 57 — St. Michael's cave, O'Hara's tower, 58—
Mediterranean stairs, 58 — Europa-flat, 59 — Glenrocky,
63 — Mr. Bracebridge's garden. Navy Commissioner's
grounds, 60 — Naval hospital, 61 — Road to the galleries,
62 — Apes, 62 — Private gardens, 64 — Vegetable market,
65 — Fishes, 65 — Inundation, 66 — Neutral-ground, Ca-
talan-bay, 67—72.

PART III.

SYNOPSIS OF PLANTS GROWING IN GIBRALTAR,
INDIGENOUS AND CULTIVATED.

DicoTYLEDONES. Ranunculaccae, 76 — Papaveracea), 77 —
Fumariaceae, 77 — Magnoliaceae, 78 — Anonaceae, 78 —
Cruciferae, 78 — Capparideae, 81 — Cistineas, 81 — Poly-
galeae, 81 — Frankeniaceae, 81 — Resedaceae, 82 — Caryo-
phylleae, 82 — Lineae, 86 — Aurantiaceae, 87 — Hyperi-
cineae, 81 — Meliaceae, 88 — Ampelideae, 89 — Geraniaceae,
89 — Oxalideae, 90 — Zygophylleae, 90 — Rutaceae, 91 —
Rhamneae, 91 — TerebinthaceaD, 91 — Leguminosae, 92
— Rosaceae, 102 — Granateae, 104 — Lythrarieae, 104 —
Tamariscineae, 104 — Cucurbitaceae, 104 — Paronychieae,
105 — Crassulaceae, 105 — Ficoideae, 106 — Cactese, 107 —
Saxifrageae, 107 — Umbelliferae, 107 — Araliaceae, 111 —
Caprifoliaceae, 111 — Rubiaceae, 112 — Valerianeae, 112 —
Dipsaceae, 113 — Compositae, 114 — Campanulaceae, 125
— ^Jasmineae, 126 — Oleineae, 126 — Apocyneae, 127 —
Gentianeae, 128 — Bignoniaceae, 128 — Convolvulaceae,

CONTENTS. XVU

128 — Boragineae, 129— Solaneae, 132 — Scrophularineae,
133 — Orobancheae, 136 — Labiatae, 136 — Verbenaceae,
141 — Acanthaceae, 141 — Primulaceae, 141 — Plumba-
gineae, 142 — Plantagineae, 143 — Amaranthaceae, 143 —
Chenopodeae, 144 — Phylolacceae, 145 — Polygoneae, 145
— Thymeleae, 146 — Santalaceae, 147 — Aristolochieae,
147 — Euphorbiaceae, 147— Urticeae, 151 — Moreae, 151
— Cupuliferae, 152 — Salicineae, 153 — Coniferae, 153.

MoNOCOTYLEDONES. Naiadeas, 155 — Aroideae, 155 —
Palmae, 156 — Orchideae, 156 — Bromeliaceae, 157 — Iri-
deae, 158 — Amaryllideae, 159 — Smilaceae, 160 — Liliaceae,
161 — Colchicaceae, 164 — Junceae, 165 — Cyperaceae,
166— Gramineae, 166.

AcoTYLEDONES. EquesitaceaB, 170 — Lycopodiaceae, 171
— Filices, 171 — Hepaticae, Lichenes, &c., 173.

Addenda. Leguminosae, 173 — Santalaceae, 174 — Euphor-
biaceae, 174 — Urticeae, 174 — Geraniaceae, 174 — Com-
positae, 174.

PART IV.

BOTANY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR.

Andalusia, 177 — Spanish customs, cigars, robbers, 177 —
Spanish lines, 178 — Sandy desert, Spanish race-course,
179— Queen of Spain's Chair, 180— Pindalista, 181—
Campo, 182 — Mr. Francia's farm, 183 — Mr. Sprague's
farm, 184— St. Roque, 184— Mr. M'Crae's hotel, 186—
Almandral, 187 — Corkwood, Duke of Kent's farm, 188 —
Convent of Almorama, Long Stables, 190 — Castellar,
190 — Boca del Leon, 192 — Spanish peasant, 192 — Los
Barrios, 193— Algesiras, 193 — Mr. Willkomm's observa-

b

XVin CONTENTS.

tions on the vegetation of the hills near Algesiras, 195—
Carteia, 196 — Orange grove, 191 — List of plants found
within twenty miles of Gibraltar, 199 — 202.

APPENDIX.

Translation of Boissier's account of Gibraltar, 206 —
Description of new plants, 216 — Addenda et Corrigenda.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Plan of the Rock and Bay of Gibraltar.
Western View of the Rock — Town.
Eastern View of the Rock — Catalan Bay.
Northern View of the Rock — Neutral Ground.

PART I.
TOPOGRAPHY OF GIBRALTAR.

« The moon is up ; — by Heaven ! a lovely eve.
m * * * *

Through Calpe's straits survey the steepy shore;
Europe and Afric on each other gaze: —
Lands of the dark-eyed maid and dusky Moor
Alike beheld beneath pale Hecate's blaze.
How softly on the Spanish shore she plays,
Disclosing rock, and slope, and forest brown,
Distinct, though darkening with her waning phase;
But Mauritania's giant-shadows frown,

From mountain-cliff to coast descending sombre down."

Byron.

TOPOGRAPHY OF GIBRALTAR.

CHAPTER I.

Gibraltar, considered either as one of Nature's
fanciful works, or as the key to the entrance to the
MediteiTanean, has an interest associated with it
which is perhaps possessed hy no other spot of
equally limited dimensions. For many centuries in
the possession of the Moors, it was maintained as a
stronghold, affording every facility for protecting their
interest in this part of Spain. After the fall of the
Moslem empire in Spain, Gibraltar belonged to the
Spaniards until the year 1 704, when it was captured
by Sir George Rooke, under the command of the
Prince of Hesse d'Armstadt, and since then it has
not been out of the hands of Great Britain. Many
were the attempts made to recover it from its present
possessors, and history records the severe sieges it
has sustained, the ever memorable one which lasted
three years seven months and twelve days, terminating
on the 2nd of February, 1783, will be related as one
unequalled in the annals of ancient or modern war-
fare. Gibraltar has always been of importance to
Great Britain, but this is much increased since the
estabhshment of steam communication between the
mother country and India.

2 TOPOGRAPHY

A stranger arriving at Gibraltar cannot fail to be
struck with the uTegular configuration of the rock.
From no one point can he view its entire extent,
and every turn gives it a new, though not always
equally pleasing character. Its picturesque posi-
tion, its bold and noble fortifications, and the varied
and charming scenery of the neighbouring coasts of
Spain and AMca, combine to attract his attention.

Viewed jfrom its beautiful Bay, Gibraltar forms
an object worthy of the artists' study, and a still
more beautiful and singular view is obtained fi'om a
flat on the hill, on which stands the Spanish town of
St. Roque. From this position (a distance of nearly
four miles intervening) the rock of Gibraltar appeal's
as an island, the isthmus connecting it with the
main land merging into the azure blue of the sea.
Although at the present day this is nothing more
than an optical delusion, yet the rock of Gibraltar
must, at a former and perhaps very remote period,
have been washed on all sides by the sea, for the
isthmus just mentioned, together with the land for
neai'ly two miles beyond, bear unequivocal mai'ks
of having once formed the sea bed. The surface,
almost entirely composed of sea sand resembles a
little sandy desert, in many parts of which are seen
large assemblages of gi'egarious shells similar to those
now in existence in the bay. A recently discovered
Roman ruin,* about 200 yards from the present shore

* This ruin was discovered in the early part of 1845, by
some labourers. The coins found there belong to the
period of the lower empire.

OF GIBRALTAR. 3

of the bay, and nearly two miles from Gibraltar, near
the village called '' Campo,''' was found covered in
one part with layers of these shells several feet
below the present surface, and nearly six feet above
the present level of the sea. This fact appears to
furnish conclusive evidence that the sea had en-
croached upon the land since the destruction of a
Roman town or village,* and had again receded;
still I hesitate to express any opinion whether this
encroachment extended at the same time across the
isthmus, leaving those extensive deposits of shells
which are now exposed when the sands are shifted
by a strong wind. If the istlmius formed the bed of
the sea at so recent a period, history does not record
the circumstance.

Gibraltar, the Calpef of the ancients, is a rocky
promontory or peninsula, connected with the main-
land of Spain by a narrow sandy isthmus. It is
situated in 36" 9' N. latitude, and S** 21' W. longi-
tude, forming, with the exception of TarifFa and Ca-
brita, the most southern part of Europe. The extreme
length of the rock is four thousand seven hundred
yards, or two miles and three-quarters, and its

* The site of Carteia is only about three miles be-
yond this newly discovered ruin.

t Calpe was the European ; and Abyla, the African

pillar of Hercules — the " ne plus ultra land and sea marks

of jealous Phoenician monopoly." The rock bears the

name of its Berber conqueror, Gebal Tarik, who landed

in Gibraltar, according to Gayangos, on the 30th of

April, 711.

B 2

4 TOPOGRAPHY

greatest breadth sixteen hundred yards. According
to the most recent measurements, there are in it
and the adjacent portion of the isthmus belonging to
Great Britain, seventy or eighty acres of land capable
of being cultivated : the entire area is estimated
at two hundred acres, but scarcely forty acres are at
present under cultivation, and of these more than
fifteen are laid out in gardens and parten-es. The
vrhole surface of the rock is irregular and rugged,
uneven in its most level parts. To the botanist in
search of plants, the ascent or rather scramble to the
most elevated parts of the rock is very fatiguing,
and often dangerous on account of the ridges running
in all directions. A sharp ridge iTins from north to
south, and forms the tennination of one part of the
summit on which a person may sit en cheval with
perfect safety, on one side looking over Catalan Bay
and its Httle village with the Mediterranean beyond,
and on the other side, the town of Gibraltar with its
noble fortifications and its hanging gardens. Tlie
smaller vessels in the bay, scarcely visible fi'om this
distant height look like so many specks upon a mirror.
The rock terminates in a sugar-loaf point at its south-
eastern extremity, which is fourteen hundred and
thirty-nine feet in height. In this neighbourhood
is situated the famous " Mechten-anean stair" cut out of
the solid rock. The signal station is placed on almost
the central point of the summit, twelve hundred and
seventy-six feet above the level of the sea. The rock
terminates towards the north in a conical-shaped
mass, rising nearly perpendicularly, and best seen

OF GIBRALTAR. 5

from the neutral ground. Near this terminating
point is placed the " Rock Mortar," at an elevation
of thirteen hundred and fifty feet, and a little below it
is situated the " Rock Gun."

The term "Neutral Ground" is often used to de-
signate the whole extent of the narrow isthmus which
joins Gibraltar to the main land; but properly speak-
ing, the actual neutral ground settled by convention,
is that portion which extends from our last line of
sentries, on the two north front guards, to the
line of Spanish sentries opposite, — a space of about
half a mile in length. The extent of the isthmus
is about a mile and a quarter, of which only
about half a mile is attached to the fortress of
Gibraltar. A portion of this tract is cultivated >
with vegetables, and the rest kept in order for pa-
rades, racing, and cricketing. The burial-ground,
slaughter-house, dog-kennel, and a few small houses
for sappers and miners are also situated here, but
very few private dwellings are allowed. At one
period a small village stood here, but as it har-
boured many mauvais sujets under the walls of
the ganison, it was deemed necessary to demolish
the whole of the houses, &c. During epidemics,
detachments of the military were quartered in this
locahty under tents, as it is considered more salu-
brious than within the garrison.

Botanists ought to feel obliged to the authorities
for the extreme care taken of this locality, in which
plants of very interesting kinds find a protected and
well-manured bed, much, however, to the annoyance

6 TOPOGRAPHY

of equestrians, as riding on this fine turf, except
during the race weeks, is considered tantamount to
trespassing within a convent's wall, and it is almost a
pity, that even the cows which furnish the best milk
for the gai'rison, should be allowed to gi'aze on this
proHfic soil, which evidently has been only recently
formed (I beHeve by order of the late General Don)
from the dehris of the gamson and elsewhere. Hence
many plants are found in this space which are not
usually seen in similar situations in this part of
Andalusia, and some of them are not even found
for miles beyond it, such as the Muscari comosum,
Ranunculus hullatus, Hyoscyamus albus, Tribulus
terrestris, &c.

This isthmus is, in most parts of its extent, about
ten feet above the level of the sea. Its breadth
near the rock is nine hundred and fifty yards ; it
gi-adually increases, and midway its breadth is about
twelve hundred yards ; and near the Spanish lines
it measures across about seventeen hundred and fifty
yards ; it still goes on increasing till it is lost in the
level ground at the foot of the mountain called
" the Queen of Spain's chair." Its circumference
is nearly eight miles. This neck of land, as far as
could be ascertained, is entirely composed of sea-sand,
in which are found large quantities of sea-shells as
has already been observed, and from the natm'e of
the rocks in the neighbourhood, it must naturally
be concluded that this bed of sand rests on a Hme-
stone formation, but hitherto this has not been -de-
monstrated, as the sand has not been removed to

OF GIBRALTAR. 7

any considerable depth. There can be no doubt
that the greater portion of the isthmus now in pos-
session of Great Britain has been reclaimed from the
sea, and old plans of the territory of Gibraltar re-
present the existence of a morass near the north
side of the rock, in the site now occupied by the moat,
or, as it is called, " the inundation." The bastions
and glacis near the land-port appear also to have been
built upon land reclaimed from the sea; and there can
be no doubt that the sea approached the market-place
nearer than it does at the present time. The same
process of reclaiming from the sea being necessary
for the formation of the extensive new fortifications
on the line wall and Europa point, Gibraltar will be in
a few years several feet wider in these situations.

The rock of Gibraltar is bounded on the north by
the main land of Spain. On the south and east it is
washed by the Mediterranean. Standing at Europa
point on a calm clear day, this deep sea, over which
" are hung the charms of antiquity, poetry, romance,
and genius," is viewed silent as a lake, with scarcely a
ripple on its surface. In the far distance across the
water is seen Ceuta, and Afric's burning shore, towered
over by Abyla's cloud-capped summits, with ranges
of blue mountains in all directions. On other occa-
sions this most beautiful of seas has a more majestic
appearance, the wind blowing with tempestuous fury
swells the water, and dashes its foaming waves on
the rugged sides of the rock, splashing their white
feathery spray high into the air: so grand and mag-
nificent is then the tout ensemble as to repay any

8 TOPOGRAPHY

lover of nature the pains he may take in going down
to this spot to see and admire the sports of the ele-
ments on this rock-girded coast. The hay of Gib-
raltar which bounds the promontory on the west, is
nearly eight and a half miles long ; its breadth is
upwards of five miles, and its circumference between
twenty and thirty miles. At spring tides the water
rises about four feet. I must refer the reader to other
works for an account of the cmTents in the Mediter-
ranean. Spix and Von Mailius, in their " Travels in
Brazil," treat this subject with their usual ability.

The rock of Gibraltar consists of secondary lime-
stone, calcareous spar, breccia, clay-shale, and sand-
stone. Homstone is also occasionally seen in small
quantities. The limestone is distinctly stratified, the
stratification beiag more marked on the surface.
Its inclination varies considerably, at one point the
strata being almost perpendicular, and at another
nearly horizontal. The dip is generally from east
to west. The colom' of this limestone varies fi'om a
light yellowish ashy gray to a smoky gray. Its
structure is compact, and it is traversed by veins
of calcareous spar of a whitish colour ; sometimes it is
seen in a foliated, but more frequently in a crystallized
state.

Caves of various size exist in this formation.
The largest, called St. Michaers Cave, is situated
about the middle of the rock, and nearly eleven
hundred feet above the level of the sea; perhaps
there are few caves in similar formations equal to
this in picturesque efi'ect, though there are many of

OF GIBRALTAR. 9

of larger dimensions. The interior is shown to the
pubhc when the rock is visited by some distinguished
personage, or a particular friend of the Colonels of
Artillery or Engineers ; it is then seen to the best
advantage : a host of people is assembled near the
entrance of the cave at the hour appointed. Martial
music sounds. The gates are opened, and the cavern
is entered with the utmost degree of caution, the
ladies of course assisted by the gentlemen, the descent
being very slippery from the accumulated moisture.
Wax tapers burning at distant intervals, cast a dim
light over all around ; as you proceed, a little stream
is passed, and you enter a beautiful grotto sixty feet
high, adorned with many sparry petrifactions, and
supported by colossal stalactitic pillars resembling
the most elaborate architectm-e ; the splendid roof
looks as if it were chizzled by the hand of the finest
sculptor, the whole illumined by coloured lights.
Within the last few years this cavern has been
explored by several enterprising gentlemen ;* and
I gathered from some of them that the party pene-
trated the cavern to more than three hundred feet
below the level of the grotto just described, and that
in their progress they went from one cavern into
another, passing thus a series of caverns of various
dimensions till they anived at one, in the centre
of which was a small pool of water. Aided by

* Among these were Mr. Risk, R.N., Rev. Mr. Burrow,
Mr. Flint, R.A., Captain Stewart, 7th Fusileers, Dr. Hearn,
Medical Staff, and Mr. Litle, R.A.

W TOPOGRAPHY

candle-light, they saw stalactitic formations very far
sui*passing in beauty those of the grotto above ; the
specimens they brought up were almost of a pure
white, the action of the atmosphere darkening the
shades of those found in the upper cave. The tortuous
narrow passages through which the explorers had
to pass, rendered the adventure rather dangerous;
ropes and ladders were in requisition, with the help
of which, and stout hearts, they accomplished what
few would like to try. Some of these explorers
imagine that they reached Martin's Cave in nearly
the opposite side of the rock, as they felt fresh air
blow upon them from crevices. In one of the lower
caves they discovered bones (not fossil) of goats,
rabbits, and rats. This leads us to believe that at one
time the entrances to these caveras were wider,
and the descents to them less hazai'dous ; lience we
may see the possibility of larger animals having once
inhabited these caves, though bones of carnivorous
animals, such as those found in the cavern limestones
of the interior of Europe, have not been discovered in
them.

The following notes were sent to me by a lady who
accompanied the party to a small distance down the
caves.

" I first entered a small opening on the right hand
side, a little below the outer entrance to the cave,
where I had to crawl on my hands and knees for
some distance. I then scrambled down a deep place
covered with loose stones. After climbing and tum-

OF GIBRALTAR. 11

bling for some time over stalagmites, and stooping to
avoid knocking my head against the stalactites, I
arrived at a deep opening, at the top of which was
fastened (round a large stalagmite), one end of a
rope ladder, of which merely the two or three first
steps were visible ; the only Ught I had was a piece
of wax candle which could not shed its rays far
around me — so that I could not see the top of the
cave ; we were not able to have torches on account
of the smoke. How far down the ladder reached, I
could not tell, but the descent seemed to me to be of
an immense depth. Sometimes the ladder was lying so
close to the rock, that I had some difficulty in put-
ting my feet on the steps, and at others hanging
quite loosely over some deep chasm. I at last put
my feet again on the firm rock, and after a great deal
more scrambling downwards, reached a small opening
at the base of what appeared to be an immense wall
of solid rock ; here my further progress was arrested
as it would not have been possible for me to have
gone through it in the dress I had on. The name of
" Corkscrew" has been given to this place, from its
naiTow and tortuous form. You are obliged to hold
your arms over your head to enable you to squeeze
yourself through, but that there is an opening some-
where, there can be little doubt, as the air blows
up quite freslJy, and sometimes extinguishes the
lights."

There are several other caves of smaller dimen-
sions with more or less of the same stalactitic and
stalagmitic formations ; the principal ones are M artin's

12 TOPOGRAPHY

and Monkey's ; there is also one at Catalan Bay, but
which is seldom visited. The stalagmitic fonnation is
found not only in caverns, but also adhering to the
external surface of the rock, large fragments of which
are carried away for ornamental pui-poses. The
laminae in some of these fragments are beautifully
waved, and not unlike jasper. These stalagmitic
formations bear a good polish, and are known by
the name of" Gibraltai' Rock," and consequently are
erroneously supposed to constitute the prevailing rock
of Gibraltar. Of this rock are manufactured small
cannons, pillars, &c., for the mantel-piece, as also
personal ornaments.

The conglomerate rock of which nearly two-thirds
of Gibraltar is composed, covers immense plateaus of
the limestone formation. Windmill Hill is a plateau
of a remarkable form, on which barracks for soldiers
are erected, and the vacant space is used for military
parades, &c. Nearly one hundred feet below this flat,
is another called " Europa Flat," which is about eighty
feet above the level of the sea. There are other flats
of smaller dimensions, such as those on which the
Naval and Ordnance Hospitals are built. The sur-
faces of these flats are rugged and very uneven. Pot-
like cavities are seen everywhere, and they are most
numerous on Europa flat. These curious cavities are
of various sizes, and are found even on the highest
part of the rock. Some of them, even there, are very
capacious, containing generally nodular bodies im-
bedded in a soft loamy or gravelly soil. I have
seen similar cavities on the highest hills on the road

OF GIBRALTAR. 13

to Grenada, and therefore they must not be sup-
posed peculiar to the rock of Gibraltar..

Tlie next formation to be noticed is the remark-
able osseous breccia, which overlies a great part
of the cavern limestone; it is chiefly seen on the
east side of the rock, between the fortifications of Cave
Guard, and the fishing Bay of La Galetta. As
this important breccia formation has been so well
described by Spix and Von Martins, I cannot do
better than quote here their observations on this
interesting subject, more particularly as their work
is seldom to be met with.

" The well-known and remarkable osseous breccia
(a limestone breccia), which, towards the sea forms a
mantle-shaped cavern, and seems here to dip at an
angle of about 30°. In some places it fills up the
rents, clefts, and corroded hollows in the limestone
rock itself. The general cement of this breccia,
which is chiefly composed of fi'agments of the same
limestone, is a stalactitic mass of considerable hard-
ness, of a reddish brown colour, and full of vesicular
cavities, which occur without order, from the size of a
poppy-seed, to the extent of several lines. Sometimes
it is itself consolidated into reniform pieces, partly
rounded, and partly angulai', of a smoky gray, and of
a light gi'ay limestone, of which the greater part of
the Mons Calpe consists ; and it contains kidneys or
nodules of a soft, very ferruginous, yellowish brown,
fine-grained, calcareous marl, and rounded grains of
quartz of the size of a millet seed. Here and there
are wavy stripes and sti-eaks of calcareous spar, and in

14 TOPOGRAPHY

the vesicular cavities, druses of a white stalactitic
hmestone. The mixture is very hard, and the ingre-
dients, which have often a thicker stalactitic crust close
to them, are therehy cemented in the strongest man-
ner, and very difficult to hreak asunder.* Petiified
bones are very seldom found in tliis stony mass,
but they are more frequent in the more recent
bed of the conglomerate or breccia, immediately
over it, which contains the same rounded little
grains of quartz, and the other ingi'edients, though
of smaller grain, that is, the nodules from the size
of a hen's egg to that of a bean, as well as a con-
siderable quantity of the light gray limestone, and
shows more frequent vesicular cavities."

The fossils found in this breccia are bones of
antelopes or stags, Siberian hares, and rats. Mr.
M'^Gregor found also those of the ox, sheep, rabbit,
tiger, snakes, and birds, and shells, for the most part
of land species : he also states having found ova in a
liigh state of preservation belonging to the Hzard
tribe.f The principal localities of this osseous breccia
are Rosia Bay, Camp Bay, Buena Vista, on the
east side of the rock above the Governor's cottage,
and at the north end of the rock. Tlie fossils above
mentioned are in a very decayed state, in*egularly
thrown together, and lying without any order, so that

* These reniform bodies, when broken by a hammer,
appear to be formed of concentric lamina?, occasioned, no
doubt, by the slow percolation of water.

t In the limestone rock of Gibraltar, sea-shells and sea-
weeds are occasionally met with.

OF GIBRALTAR. 15

it is extremely difficult to collect the bones of any dis-
tinct species. No human bones have been discovered,
although works of art are occasionally found in the
more recent formation. A cannon ball is also said to
have been surrounded by a breccious cement.

'^ Over the stalactitic stratum which has been de-
scribed," continue the authors we have just quoted,
'^ there is a more recent limestone breccia," (testaceous
conglomerate of Mr. McGregor), which lies on the
surface of the ground here and there, rent into
separate blocks of rocks. It consists of a grayish
white or gray limestone, the detritus of calcined
shells, very few fragments of bones, and a rather
reddish, granular mortar-like cement ; the pieces of
limestone are here smaller — from half a line to six
lines in diameter, — and instead of the above-mentioned
grains of quartz which are entirely wanting, there are
whitish, pearl-like globules of stalactitic limestone,
resembling the Carlsbed pea-stones. The calcined
shells are far more munerous here, and form in a
manner thin strata in the stone : no entire shells,
indeed, are to be found among them ; they seem,
however, from their thickness and breadth to belong
to the common oyster; — others, from their dotted
edge and convexity, perhaps to a cockle (Cardium) ;
that is to say, to marine Conchylia." The whole of
this formation does not appear to be more than two
hundred feet above the limestone rock, and fresh
formations appear still to be going on in the neigh-
bourhood of the sea.

An importance is attached to this remarkable
breccia formation of Gibraltar, fr'om the circumstance

16 TOPOGRAPHY

of similar deposits being found in other parts of the
Mediterranean and Adriatic. The late origin of this
formation, and the peculiar fact of most of the fossil
bones found here belonging to animals of the herbivo-
rous kind which are still extant, lends also an interest
to it which has been much increased from the attention
paid to it by recent geologists. The rocks in the
neighbourhood of Gibraltar are composed of sand-
stone and limestone. *' The Queen of Spain's Chair,"
the nearest mountain to Gibraltar, is composed of a
yellowish red-coloured sandstone, regularly stratified,
^^ the rare strata running from north-east to south-
west, and inclining in many different angles to the
south-east." No trace of breccia fonnation has been
discovered in this range of mountains.

Beds of clay are found below the elevated plateau
called Buena Vista ; this clay is in different stages of
progress, frequently approaching to a slaty nature.
Near the Jew's burial-ground and new mole, beds of
dark brown-coloured shale are found.

The next fonnations worthy of notice are the sand-
stone deposits : they are of two kinds ; one appears to
be of modem date, and to consist of the sand and
debris to be found in the smTounding coast ; the other
parts like those near Martin's Cave and Governor's
Cottage, are evidently of much older date. '' And
most likely," says Mr. Smith, '' they coiTespond
with the period of the first elevation of the
rock."

The sand deposits are also very extensive; the
most remarkable one is that near the Alameda. This

OF GIBRALTAR. 17

sand consists of grains of quartz, to which adheres
an argillaceous earth, strongly impregnated with
iron ; hence its peculiar red colour. It appears to
be of marine origin, and is distinctly stratified.
The sandbank near Catalan Bay is nearly five hun-
dred feet high, and is considered to be blown sand,
resting at an angle of fifty degrees; under it is a
thinly stratified deposit of sand-stone.

Many conjectures have been made with respect to
the geological history of this rock, but I believe that
it may be safely considered to belong to the Jura
limestone system ;^ the rocks in the neighbourhood,
as has been already observed, consist of sand-stone
and limestone, with thin strata of coal. A coal
deposit is found within four miles of Gibraltar, but
not of sufficient thickness to make it desirable to
work the beds. I have seen similar deposits near
Malaga, under similar circumstances.

Mr. Smith of Jordan Hill, well known to the
scientific world as a naturalist and geologist, resided
for several years at Gibraltar, and having made him-
self acquainted with every fissure and clifi" of the
rock, recently laid before the Literary Society of
Gibraltar, a new view of the formation of the rock of
Gibraltar, which I believe forms the substance of
a paper lately read before the Geological Society
of London. In the former paper, Mr. Smith, after
describing minutely every feature impressed upon

* The Gibraltar limestone contains casts of Terebratula
fimbria and T. concinna {Smith). See Appendix.

C

18 TOPOGRAPHY

the rock after it was originally moulded by the Divine
hand, proceeds to account for its peculiar, fantastic
and varied appearances, in nearly the following
words : —

'^ We have thus clear evidence of at least four
upheavals. First, that which elevated the upper
part of the rock to an angle of 18° or 20°, followed by
a lengthened period of repose, duiing wliich the older
portion of the sand-stone of Catalan Bay and Martin's
Cave must have been deposited. The second is that
which elevated the middle portion of the rock to an
angle of 36°. The third, which elevated the southern
peak, on which is situated O'Hara's tower, to an
angle of 60°. And the fourth, that which raised the
Windmill Hill and Em'opa-fiat."

How far this novel view of the geological history
of the rock is consonant with established facts, I leave
to the judgment of the learned body to whom the
paper was submitted, satisfying myself with saying,
that it is exceedingly probable that more than one
force has given the rock its present configuration, of
course not supposing these forces acted solely upon so
limited a space as the rock of Gibraltar, but that these
different angles of position are the results of opera-
tions wliich are also evident in many parts of the
sierras of Spain and AMca.

I believe it was Mr. Smith, who, for the first time,
clearly demonstrated the rocky eminences or flats, on
which the naval and ordnance hospitals are built, to
be " landslips." Mr. S. is also of opinion that the
precipice which overhangs the town is of the same

OF GIBRALTAR. 19

origin. There is another peculiarity in the geological
history of the rock, which its external surface indicates,
and which ought not to pass unnoticed, even in this
imperfect sketch, viz. — the wasting action of the sea.
This is ohservable on almost every part of the rock,
and it is strongly indicated by the cliffs and terraces
which could only have been formed by the action of
water. The sea also appears to have impressed the
sides of caves and fissures and pot-like cavities of
even the highest parts of the rock with " water- worn
marks," and some of the smaller caves appear to have
been formed by the wasting action of the sea — an
operation which is still observable at the present level
of the sea. These facts prove beyond a doubt that the
sea stood at these levels at different periods of its geo-
logical history. Mr. James McGregor of the Medical
Staff, was the first, I believe, to point out the beds of
oyster-shells in the higher parts of the rock ; one of
these beds, situated at Europa above the Engineers'
quarters, is formed of shells resembling those of
oysters at present found in the Mediterranean, so that
it would appear that the sea stood at these high levels
at a comparatively modern date. Two new deposits of
shells have lately been laid open at the heights of
seventy and eighty feet, near Europa mess-room. This,
Mr. Smith considers one convincing proof among
others, that the sea stood at these two respective levels
at tw 0 distinct periods ; and, according to him, these
shells are all of the post-tertiary epoch.

Having brought to a conclusion this brief sketch of
the Geology of Gibraltar, it remains for me to treat

c 2

20 TOPOGRAPHY

succinctly of other matters connected with its physical
history ; and first in importance to the inhabitants
of a large garrison like Gibraltar, are the sources of
the water which they consume. From the nature of
the soil, and the immensity of the sand-deposits
within the garrison, we can easily imagine the exist-
ence of springs ; still the number of springs is not
gi'eat, and the few wells wliich exist, are very
deep, and appear to be suppHed from percolation of
rain-water, within the nairow limits of the rock itself;
which circumstance was taken advantage of by the
Moors during theu* possession of the rock, and they
accordingly constructed an aqueduct which has been
since destroyed. The present one, planned by a
Spanish Jesuit, conveys the water collected by perco-
lation through the red sands in a reservoir or well near
Victoria Battery, into the centre of the town, and
tenninates at the Commercial-square. The water
obtained from the wells is hard, being slightly im-
pregnated with lime, but it is considered wholesome.
More than one half the water usfed in Gibraltar is
collected in tanks or cisterns from the rains which
fall during the year. Nearly all of the modern
houses possess this requisite appendage. There are
also public tanks of immense capacity; many of them
have been recently built for the use of the troops.
The largest of these tanks are those which supply
water to the Navy ; they are said to be capable of
holding nearly one million four hundred thousand
gallons of water ; and all the other tanks in the gar-
rison, both public and private, upwards of two million

OF GIBRALTAR. 21

gallons. On Europa-flat is a well of moorish con-
struction, which is said to be capable of holding one
hundred thousand gallons of water. So long as we
hold possession of a part of the isthmus which connects
Gibraltar with the mainland, and there falls the
average quantity of rain, there is little or no chance
of the garrison suffering from a complete drought.
The wells on the neutral ground, although only a
few feet deep, afford abundance of fresh water, and
they have not been known to fail even in the driest
seasons. The source of this abundant flow of fresh
water in almost a sandy desert, and so near the sea,
is a subject of some interesting speculations. The
only way I can account for it is, by attributing its
source to the mountains of Spain on the principle of
Artesian springs, or as some suppose, there may be at
no considerable depth below the sands, a layer of im-
penetrable rock which prevents the rain-water from
percolating to unfathomable depths, and thereby
makes the neutral ground a reservoir for water.

The quantity of rain which falls during different
seasons varies considerably, as the following formula
will show : —

Rainy season of 1837 and 1838, there fell 50'53 inches

„ „ 1840 and 1841 „ 21-10 „

„ 1841 and 1842 „ 2220 „

„ „ 1843 and 1844 „ 17-60 „

„ „ 1844 and 1845 „ 4513 „

I may safely say, that on an average, Gibraltai* is

22

TOPOGRAPHY

visited by such heavy falls of rain as in 1838 and
1845, only once in seven or eight years. The average
fall of rain each rainy season, commencing from
the September of one year, and terminating in the
May of the following year, may be estimated at
twenty-eight inches. The following table exliibits
the average fall of rain in each month for a period
of twenty-five years.

Table showing the average quantity of rain in each
month, and the average number of days in which rain
fell in twenty-five years, from 1812 to 1836.

Months.

Average quantity
of Rain.
Inches.

Average number

of

Rainy days.

January

6

25

2

3

1-5

0-5

none

0-5

1

2-5

5

4

10-5

7-5

7

9

5

1-5
none

0-5

3

7

9.5

9 1

February

March

April

May

June

Julv

August

September

October

November

December

Average total .

28-5

6-95

From the foregoing Table it appears, that the
average quantity of rain which falls in Gibraltai* during
one year is twenty-eight inches and five-tenths, and the
average number of days in which rain falls during
the same period is sixty-nine and a half, and that

OF GIBRALTAR. 23

in July, for twenty-five years, there fell no rain at all ;
liowever, there have been a few instances, within
later yeai's, of slight diizzling rain having fallen in
the month of July.

The next subject to which I shall advert is the
temperature of Gibraltar.

The temperature of an almost isolated place like
Gibraltar, exposed to so many physical agents, both
by land and sea, must natm-ally be expected to vary
from year to year. The average mean temperatm*e
is stated by writers to be 72° Fahr. The annual mean
maximum 74° F., and the mean minimum 64'' F.,
but these residts are not obtained from observations
of the real maximum and minimum of each twenty-foiu:
hom-s; but the maxuna of tables hitherto given ai'e
from observations made at 3 p. m., and the minima
are from observations at 9 a.m.; therefore it follows
that these statements are not quite con*ect, though
they afford a close approximation to truth. Soon after
my anival in Gibraltar in the year 1843, I kept a
register of the observations made from Six's tlier-
mometer, the results of wliich I found to vary conside-
rably from those given by former observers, and con-
sequently my Meteorological Reports, which were
publislied in the form of monthly abstracts in the
* Gibraltai' Chi'onicle,' have been adopted by the
principal medical officer, in liis Medical Statistical
Reports to the Dii'ector-General of the Army Me-
dical Department. The following ai'e the results
of observations made fi'om May 1, 1844, to
March 31, 1845.

24

TOPOGRAPHY

The highest temperature observed was.... 87° F. in July
The lowest ditto ditto .... 43" F. in Feb.

The mean max. for the period 67'6° F.

The mean min. for ditto 6056° F.

Mean max. daily range „ 10'72*'F.

Mean average ditto 6-35° F.

Mean min. ditto 2'85° F.

The above results are to be understood as only
those of a very limited period ; many years of similar
observations will be required before we can arrive at
the real mean temperature of Gibraltar, but I hope
there is now a fair prospect of this being accom-
plished, instruments having lately ai'rived from
England upon my suggestion, for keeping con-ect
meteorological observations on the rock of Gibraltar.
The following Tables aie drawn out with the vieAV of
showing how the temperature of one year may differ
from that of another.

Average Temperature for Five Years, from Major Tulloch's Statistical

Keport.

Years 1825 to 1836 inclusive.

January .,
Febmary ..

March

April

May

June ... .

July

August ..
September
October ..
November
December

Thermometer

Maximum.
Fahr.

Medium.
Fahr.

Minimum.
Fahr.

Degrees.
63

Degrees.

58-5

Degrees.
55

64

59-5

55

67

61-5

57-5

71-5

65-5

61

75

69

64

78-5

74-5

70

84-5

79

74

84

79

75-5

81

77

72-5

76-5

72

67

69-5

65

60

66

60-5

55-5

N.B. The maximum was obtained generally from observations at
3 p. M., and the minimum from observations at 9 A. m. — Author.

OF GIBRALTAR.

25

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TOPOGRAPHY

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OF GIBRALTAR.

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28 TOPOGRAPHY

The foregoing tables show a striking difference in
the heat of the summers of 1844 and 1845 ; and I
might here observe, that the foimer was a very unu-
sually hot summer, and the latter a very pleasant and
agreeable one.

The barometer seldom rises higher than thirty
inches, or sinks lower than 29*300 ; the average daily
range being about 0*150.

Gibraltar is much exposed to all the changes of
wind. The south-easterly wind generally prevails for
nearly half the year. In some years there is less of
it, much to the satisfaction of the gaiTison, as it is
considered by most people a very unwholesome wind.
This leads us to the consideration of the climate of
Gibraltar. Various are the opinions advanced uj)on
this subject, but as I do not intend this description of
Gibraltar to be received in the light of its medical
Topogi'aphy, I shall briefly sum up my observations on
this head, reserving for a future opportunity a more
detailed account. The climate of Gibraltar had been
represented to me as equal to any in the south of
Europe, but gi'eat was my disappointment not to find
it what I expected. The heat of summer is more
oppressive than even the thermometrical observations
would indicate, owing principally to the want of a free
circulation of air, which is prevented by the height
and peculiar configuration of the rock, most of the
winds blowing only in certain quarters of the rock,
and often when the wind is raging tempestuously on
the eastern side, there is scarcely a breath of wind in
the town of Gibraltar ; then the only consolation

OF GIBRALTAR. 29

the inhabitants have, is a dense fog, which rather
cools the air. On returning into the garrison,
from a ride on the sandy beach outside the barrier,
the difference of temperature is painfully felt. In
passing the Puerta de la Terra, blasts of heated air
oppress the rider, and on entering the main street,
he again experiences the undescribable sensations of
breathing confined and impm'e air. The summer
nights retain nearly all the heat of the day, there not
being sufficient time for the rock to become cool
before the sun rises again. The reflected heat from
the rocky surfaces of Gibraltar is of itself a great
source of suffering to the inhabitants.

The vegetation on the rock being comparatively
of a diminutive kind, does not afford much shelter;
and I am sure if General Don*s plan was still further
carried out, by planting more poplars, firs, and bella-
somhras on the higher parts of the rock, Gibraltar
might be rendered a cooler residence in the course of
years. The winters are certainly milder and less
variable, as must be naturally expected, than those of
more northerly climes, but there are years when some
of the winter months are nearly as bad as any in
England. The cold is, occasionally, even in the most
favourable winters, very intense ; snow is observed in
many parts of the neighbouring hills for many weeks,
and sometimes thin pellicles of ice are formed in
some parts of the rock itself. Gibraltar is also occa-
sionally visited by hail and thunder stoims. The
lightning is never very prolonged ; distant thunder is
of much more frequent occurrence. Rain frequently

30 TOPOGRAPHY

falls, with scarcely any intermission, for seven or eight
days together, and in two or three instances the
torrents of water rushing down the gullies have
produced serious consequences. On one occasion the
main street was deluged for several feet, and the force
of the water was so great, as to carry in its course
children who were unfortunately exposed to its
influence.

What renders the climate of Gibraltar peculiarly
distressing to invahds, is the prevalence of the easterly
wind, or Levanter, which blows sometimes for four
and five weeks together, and during nearly all this
period, tliick dark clouds hang over the rock, and the
fog on the neutral ground is frequently as tliick as
any November fog in London. The mornings espe-
cially are very foggy on the naiTOw isthmus ; some-
times there is a fog in the town when there is none
outside the garrison, and it is then a great relief to
the inhabitants to walk or '^ ride out into Spain."
Various are the sensations ascribed to the Levant
wind, but the general one is that of lassitude and
dulness of spirits ; and frequently one feels as if co-
vered with a wet blanket, or walking, when heated,
in a damp cellar. However unpleasant this wind
may be to personal comfort, still the hospital statistics
do not show any increased sickness wliilst it prevails ;
but whether its effects are ultimately shown on the
constitution of long residents, I cainiot say, as there
are not sufficient data to come to a coiTect con-
clusion on this subject, but I may venture to assert,
that the native inhabitants of the rock (i. e. those

OF GIBRALTAR. 31

people whose families have probably been established
for centuries), do not appear to possess the same
physical strength as the inhabitants in then* fa-
therland.

To persons suffering under pulmonary complaints,
the winters in Gibraltar are of course more suitable
than those of England or Scotland; but what is
gained in climate, is perhaps lost in the want of good
accommodation, &c. The hotels on the Commercial-
square are situated in a noisy locality, ill suited for
any invalid, and in summer the stench from the line
wall is intolerable. The lodging-houses, of which
there are few, are badly situated, suiTOunded by dirty
and filthy habitations of segar-makers, &c. The only
liouse of the kind suitable for an invalid, is one on
the new mole parade, in the south district, but
that can only accommodate two families. If Gibral-
tar is ever to be made a sanatorium for consumptive
patients during the winter months, more suitable
accommodations shoidd be first provided. Malaga,
under all cu'cumstances, is a more desirable place for
invalids li'om northern climes. In Gibraltar, my
limited experience tells that pulmonary consumption
runs a very rapid course in summer, with which opinion
I believe nearly all the medical officers of the garrison
concur. Although tlie mortality among soldiers from
this disease does not appear at first strikingly great,
yet the numbers who are sent home for pulmonary
diseases, before the advanced symptoms have set in,
are perhaps more than one could possibly conceive ;
the future history of these cases is seldom known

32 TOPOGRAPHY

m Gibraltar. The question is, therefore, how many
of these cases, if left in Gibraltar, would not have
terminated in death ? So that, before more conclusive
evidence can be brought forward, we must hesitate
still in forming om- opinion, whether Gibraltar is or is
not a favourable place for phthisical patients.

Gibraltar has, unfortunately, still the reputation of
being an unhealthy station, for memory calls back the
number of dreadful epidemics which have prevailed
within its walls. A medical history of the rock will
always be acceptable to the profession, and it is to be
regretted that Dr. Gillkrest, the principal medical
officer of the ganison, has not yet favoured^ the pub-
lic with all his valuable researches. Although there
are not very marked sources of epidemics in Gibraltar,
still there is sufficient room for great improvements
in the comfort and accommodation of especially the
poorer classes of its inhabitants, the filthy state of
whose houses is almost proverbial, though an inti-
mation of this kind from the governor was received
by the Jewish population with extremely bad grace.
From some cause or other, the sewers emit, in the
summer months, a most foetid smell ; this mephitic
odour, no doubt, proceeds from causes which may
be removed. In the summer of 1844, the stench
along the line wall was intolerable, and silver articles
belonging to persons living in houses in this locality
were almost entirely blackened, evidently from the
quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen gas composing the
effluvia from the sewers which open into the sea near
this locality. Whatever may be said to the contrary.

OF GIBRALTAR. 33

I have not the least doubt that improvements in
cleaning the sewers, &c., will be followed by a better
state of health of the garrison. Long will the boon
conferred upon the inhabitants by the late General
Don be remembered. The improvements effected
under his orders were made after the last epidemic
of yellow fever in 1828. To these succeeded those
of Sir Alexander Woodford, to whom Gibraltar is
much indebted for various benefits conferred upon it.
This fever has not since appeared in an epidemic
form, and it is to be hoped Gibraltar will in future
be spared so fearful a visitation.

The general reader may not, perhaps, be aware
that the yellow fever, the great scourge of the West
Indies and the western coast of Africa, was alike
fatal in its effects in Gibraltar and in other parts of
Spain, in several visits it made there, though it
cannot be considered an endemic disease of the coun-
try. This fever, under various names, has no doubt
prevailed in Gibraltar, previous to the first detailed
account we have of it, but perhaps not to the same
extent as it did in 1804. In that year the yellow
fever made its appearance in August, and disappeared
about the beginning of Januaiy the following year.
Dming this dreadful epidemic there died, fifty-four
officers, eight hundi-ed and sixty-four soldiers, one
hundred and sixty-four soldiers' wives and children,
and four thousand eight hundred and sixty-four of
the civil population. On the whole, more than one-
third of the troops and civiHans who were attacked,
died. In 1810 the disease again made its appear-

D

34

TOPOGRAPHY

ance, but was confined to the soldiers of one regiment,
of whom six died. In July, 1813, the yellow fever
again broke out, and carried off four hundred and
sixty-one of the troops, and 883 of the civilians, and
the disease ceased to rage only in December. This
epidemic again prevailed in the following year, from
August to the end of October; in this instance it
destroyed one hundred and fourteen of the military,
and one hundred and thu-ty-two of the inhabitants.
After a lapse of nearly fourteen years, this fever
again broke out in August, 1828, when, notwith-
standing the adoption of the most prompt and useful
measures, this epidemic carried off 1796 of the
military and civil population, and, according to Major
TuUoch's account, in the following proportions : —

Coininissionecl oflScers

strength.

Admitted.

Died.

158
3,494

17*000

53

1,514

447

4,701

10

422

83

1,281

N on -commissioned officers and soldiers
Women and children

Civilians ..

Although this disease has been known to the pro-
fession for so long a time, still there is much diffi-
culty in aiTiving at any decided conclusion as to its
nature. Some medical officers have laboured to prove
that it is only an aggravated form of the remittent fe-
ver of tropical climates ; and others, that it is a disease
sui generis ; whilst a large number once believed in
its contagious nature. I must confess that my faith
in the doctrines of most schools, that the yellow fever

OF GIBRALTAR. 36

is a distinct disease from all other forms of fever, has
heen much shaken from the recent prevalence of a
"nondescript" fever on hoard Her Majesty's ships
Caledonia and Formidahle, whilst in the Gibraltar
bay, during the late disturbances between Morocco
and France ; the former vessel was fresh from Eng-
land and the latter from Malta, and had been only a
few weeks off Gibraltar when a fever broke out
among the crews, several of those labouring under it,
being admitted into the military hospital when 1 was
doing duty there. All, however, did not present the
same symptoms, but the majority had the deep yelloAv
colour of the skin, and one fatal case had many
symptoms, which even the most experienced pro-
nounced to be those of the epidemic yellow fever.
Here, then, we had patients suffering from the mildest
form of remittent fever to that of the severest form of
yellow fever, all occuning on board the same vessels,
the disease, at the same time, not attacking, to the
best of my knowledge, any on shore, and it left the
vessels immediately on going to sea. To what cause
are we to attribute the fever in this case ? Surely to
a local origin, though perhaps not to one on shore, for
then it was likely to have prevailed also among the
inhabitants. The only circumstance I observed,
which might in the slightest degree be supposed to
have contributed to the production of the disease, was
the stench along the line wall, produced conjointly by
the effluvia from the sewers which empty there, and
the gaseous emanations from the decomposition of
sea-weed, &c. ; and although I do not wish it to be

d2

36 TOPOGRAPHY

inferred that sulphuretted hydrogen is the cause of
yellow fever (Niger expedition), I may here remark
that Major TuUoch observes, in his valuable medical
statistical report on Gibraltar, that the yellow fever
prevailed in epidemics, more in some situations than
others, particularly along the line wall facing the
sea. It is still more remarkable, and perhaps, does
away with any inference the above facts may have
induced, that the fever was not known to prevail on
board the different vessels at the same time in the bay
with the Caledonia and Formidable. The origin of
fever of nearly all kinds is still involved in mystery,
and that perhaps of none more so, than the fevers of
Gibraltar ; although appai'ently there are so few
visible sources of malaria, fevers of various kinds
prevail from year to year within the garrison, and
even well-marked cases of intermittent fever are
recorded by medical officers who have served there.
No unusual atmospherical phenomena were observed
during the epidemics of yellow fever ; the disease
could neither be traced to rain, heat, nor wind ; all
nature appeared to smile ; the flowers and plants
looked as beautiful as ever ; there was nothing unu-
sual in the atmosphere; and the "sea rolled on as
it rolled before ;" man alone seemed to wither and
die. Nor could any atmospherical cause account for
the recent prevalence of cerebral disease in almost an
epidemic form among the civil population of Gibraltar.
In the early part of the winter of 1843-4, a sin-
gular affection of the brain broke out among the
poorer classes of tlie civil population. This was at

OF GIBRALTAR. 37

first supposed to be merely a form of fever, compli-
cated with inflammation or congestion of the brain ;
but from the suddenness of the attack, its dispo-
sition to terminate in paralysis, and very often in
death, after only a very few days' suffering ; besides,
from other circumstances (which would be out of
place to be mentioned in a work of this kind), there
is no doubt that the disease was the same as that
described by Monsieur Rollet, in the " Transactions
of the Royal Academy of Medicine, at Paris," viz.,
the cerehro rachidian meningitis, or encephalo menin-
gitis, which had prevailed for some years past in
the garrisons of Versailles, Lyons, Bayonne, Groits,
Metz, Strasbourg, &c., where its course was as
destructive as it was in Gibraltar ; the epidemic, how-
ever, being more prevalent among the military, whilst
it prevailed more sparingly among the civil population
of the environs of these garrisons; whereas in Gibral-
tar it was almost confined to the civil population. At
the same time that the disease was also prevailing
among all classes in several other towns in the south
of Europe, I believe there is no record of a similar
disease having ever before appeared in the garrison
of Gibraltar, at least not in an epidemic form. Its
appearance in this instance cannot be traced to any
causes which are not always in operation in Gibraltar.
If atmospherical vicissitudes produced the disease, as
some would wish to infer, the soldiers, who are more
exposed to them, must have suffered also ; therefore
we are obliged to place this epidemic among many
others whose origin will perhaps always remain a

38 TOPOGRAPHY

mystery to us. The same may be said of the erysi-
pelas, which prevailed to so alarming an extent in
Gibraltar, soon after the cessation of the head
disease.

Much yet remains to be learned fi'om medical offi-
cers of the army, although medical science is idready
indebted to the labours of Mr. Henry Marshall and
Major Tulloch, for bringing in a condensed foim to
the notice of the profession and to the public the mass
of hospital facts collected under the admirable ar-
rangement of Su- James M'^Grigor, the Director-
General of the Army Medical Depailment, whose
anxious wish to encourage researches in Natmal
History, will also doubtless continue to be responded
to by the medical officers serving in the colonies.

OF GIBRALTAR. 39

CHAPTER II.

The town of Gibraltar is situated on the north-
west portion of the rock. It is nearly five thousand,
eight hundred and twenty feet long, and about one
thousand feet broad, defended on all exposed sides by
fortifications of the highest order ; perhaps there is
no ganison in the world better equipped in warlike
appointments than Gibraltar. The new works which
are now being constructed at an enormous expense,
will render this little rock still more impregnable. The
excavated galleries, which are mounted with heavy
metal, are wonderfiil works of human art, and are
considered as master-pieces of skilful engineering;
they are objects of interest as well as of curiosity, to
every stranger who may be so fortunate as to procure
admission into these subterranean batteries.

The number of houses in the town was estimated, a
few years ago, at one thousand, three hundred and
eighty-four, not including government quarters, of
which there are nearly four hundred, besides three
hundred and thirty private houses in the southern part
of the rock. The town is composed of only a few
wide streets, running nearly parallel with each other,
and others intersecting these at right angles. The
generality of the streets are irregularly laid out, and
from the natui'e of the rock, little or no uniformity

40 TOPOGRAPHY

has been observed in the building of the houses.
Most are built in the Spanish, or rather, Moor-
ish style, with open courts, or patios, in the centre.
A few modern ones are, however, built more in con-
formity with English taste. The greater number
of houses are built on the hill-side, and are ap-
proachable only by immense flights of steps. Several
families reside in different small apartments in one
house ; often have I seen houses ^nth fifteen or
twenty families occupying a space, which, in most
places, would be devoted to only half that number of
inmates.

The main street runs from the quay, or Water-port
barrier, to the South-port, a distance of about half a
mile, having for the most part well-built houses on
each side. This street tenninates, or rather extends
into a road, leading to what is called the South-district,
where nearly one-twelfth part of the population of
Gibraltar resides. Other roads penetrate to various
parts of the rock ; one runs to Europa-flat, for more
than two miles, winding round the governor's cottage
on the east side of the rock. Bridle-paths are cut
out on the liighest parts of the rock ; the signal sta-
tion, and even the Rock-gun and O'Hara's tower,
may be reached on horseback with perfect safety. A
winchng road, from near the governor's cottage, leads
up to the Mediterranean stairs, and it is said that a
bold young officer of the garrison rode up to the top
of the stairs, an exploit which few would be found
willing to attempt.

Few public biuldings in Gibraltar possess any

OF GIBRALTAR. 41

importance, and in none is there any successful display
of architectural embeUishments. Among the prin-
cipal ones are the cathedral, exchange, court-house,
convent, naval hospital, garrison library, and civil
hospital.

The cathedral is a poor modern imitation of Moorish
architecture, badly adapted for the purpose intended,
and certainly not built with any regard to the principles
of acoustics. The Queen's chapel is formed of a small
part of the chapel of the old convent, the rest having
been turned into a ball-room and stores. This chapel
claims particular attention, as containing the manes
of many who have, during life, rendered important
services to their king and country. Among these are
deposited the remains of the eminent and philan-
thropic principal medical officer, Dr. Hennen,* who,
by his works, has established a fame and reputation
which few have attained. The exchange is a commo-
dious building, part of which is also used as a library
for the use of the respectable class of the civil popula-
tion of Gibraltar. The court-house is a chaste build-
ing, and since the bella-sombras have been lopped
off, its *' plain and miniature imitation of the Parthe-
non" is seen to better advantage. The Catholic
chapel, one of the few remaining monuments of the
Spaniards, is a neat building. The ' convent of
Franciscan friars* is now the residence of the go-
vernor, to which a fine garden is attached. The

* The author of ' The Medical Topography of Gibral-
tar,' &c.

42 TOPOGRAPHY

Wesleyan congregations have two chapels, one in
town and the other at the furthest end of the South -
district. The garrison library is a spacious building,
founded in 1793 by Colonel Drinkwater, the author
of the celebrated book on ' The Siege of Gibraltar.'
This valuable institution, without which Gibraltar
would, indeed, be an undesirable residence, reflects
great credit on those who have propounded and en-
couraged its establishment. It is entirely supported
by subscriptions from the military, naval, and civil
officers, at the time stationed in Gibraltar. It con-
tains upwards of twenty thousand volumes of all kinds
and descriptions, and in different languages. The
committee of management have, for some years, with
great liberality, allowed the purchase of a limited
number of medical works, and the library now pos-
sesses a pretty fair stock of standard medical books
and periodicals, which the subscribing medical officers
of the ganison are too thankful to obtain the reading
of, now that the military medical library is defunct,
and its books lie mouldering on shelves in an upper
room of the garrison dispensary.

The only Moorish remain of any importance is the
castle (bearing date a. d. 746). It stands on the
north-west side of the rock, and its decaying walls
enclose a large space of ground, on wliich are built a
few quarters for officers, &c. A great part of the
giralda, or tower, has resisted the work of time, and
forms part of the prison for civil and military offend-
ers. The old Moorish walls have lately been restored,
destroying, however, much of their picturesque effect.

OF GIBRALTAR. 43

The accommodation for the troops is commodious,
and in general well constructed, and in good situa-
tions ; nearly one-tliird of the troops is located in case-
mated barracks. The military hospital (formerly the
naval hospital, and known still better by this designa-
tion), is a noble pile of buildings, situated on a flat
below Buena Vista ; it can accommodate upwards of
four hundred patients. Each regiment has so many
wards allotted to it, of which theu' respective medical
officers have charge ; the whole establishment being
under the immediate supervision of the principal
medical officer. A lunatic asylum, for the temporary
accommodation of insane patients among the soldiers,
has lately been added to this establishment, the ar-
rangement and construction of which have occupied
the constant attention of Dr. Gillkrest,* the late
principal medical officer. The ordnance hospital, situ-
ated on a higher flat, called Buena Vista, above the
naval hospital, is a small range of old buildings, which
can only accommodate about thirty patients. Tlie
civil hospital is situated on a projecting hill in the
town, but sufficiently away from other houses of the
inhabitants (the adjoining buildings are commissaiiat
quarters). This establishment owes its origin to the
late Sir George Don. It affords medical and surgical
relief to the sick poor of Gibraltar, and even to
strangers who may seek relief there ; sailors from the
shipping in the bay are also admitted into its wards.

■^ The writer of the article on yellow fever in the
* Cyclopaedia of Medicine.'

44 TOPOGRAPHY

The expenses of this hospital are partly defrayed by
government, and partly by private donations and
legacies. Patients are also admitted into this hos-
pital, by paying one shilling and six-pence per diem,
who cannot claim the usual certificate of pauperism.
The Jews, Roman Catholics, and Protestants have
each their board of du'ectors, but from this multiplicity
of masters, much of the efficiency of the establish-
ment is destroyed. The hospital can accommodate
eighty patients, but rarely are there more than thirty
or forty in it. Besides the in-door patients, the dis-
pensary attached to it affords relief to a large number
of out-door patients. There is some room for im-
provement in the whole institution, and a well quali-
fied resident English surgeon would be a great advan-
tage to the establishment. Perhaps no class of people
object to go into hospital more than the poor of
Gibraltar ; and it is only when the case is hopeless, or
when the supply is stopped, that they can be per-
suaded to enter the hospital, relief to them having
been, in the meantime, afforded by efficient medical
practitioners, I had much pleasure in noticing, in my
last Annual Report on the sickness and mortality of
the civil population, the existence of a benevolent
fund, called the " Liberal Society of Friends United,"
which should be encouraged by all parties, as it ena-
bles a working man, in case of his own illness, to
obtain a sufficiency to keep him above want for a
period extending to even twelve months. Thus I
have known some labouring men draw from the funds
of this useful society one shilling and six-pence per

OF GIBRALTAR. 45

day, his only qualification for this demand being one
shilling and six-pence admission-fee, and nine-pence
weekly subscription ; but he was not entitled to the
benefits of the society until he had continued a sub-
scriber for six months. I have briefly alluded to this
subject, as I shall, no doubt, be excused for pointing
out any means which ameliorate the condition of the
poor.

The dead were all formerly buried in various parts
of the rock, and in the sand-pit. At present only
the civil and military officers and members of their
families are allowed to be buried in the cemetery
in the sand-pit. The soldiers and the civil population
are buried in the cemetery on the neutral ground.
The Jews are, however, still permitted to bury their
dead on an elevated part of the rock on the road to
St. Michael's Cave.

The convict establishment is a new feature in the
modem history of Gibraltar. Between six and seven
hundred convicts from England are located in well-
built quarters in the neighbourhood of the dockyard.
They are a very useful body of men on the rock, and
have plenty of work to perform. Their sick are accom-
modated in a floating hospital within the new mole
harbour.

The south district commences fi-om the South-port
gate, and extends, it may be said, to Europa-point ;
but the majority of houses are situateda bout half-a
mile from the town. This district is, from its airy
and elevated situation, considered a very healthy
part of Gibraltar; Europa-flat being still more so.

46 TOPOGRAPHY

The South-district is cooler by one or two degrees
than the town. There are very commodious houses in
this locality, many of these well-situated, and com-
manding a full view of the beautiful bay and the
coasts of Spain and Africa ; to some of these houses
small gardens are attached. The habitations of the
poorer classes, even in this district, are too crowded,
and the generality of them in very bad repair.

Catalan bay is on the east side of the rock, facing
the Mediterranean. The small village attached to it
is picturesquely situated near the shore, bounded on
three sides by the rock ; on the southern aspect is
also the immense mound of blown sand, which atti'acts
the attention of even the casual visitor. The ap-
proach to Catalan bay is, after leaving the garrison,
by a road on the left of the bay-side guard ; this road
runs round the base of the northern side of the rock,
having the neutral ground before it, and it tenninates
in a bridle-path, about a quarter of a mile from Cata-
lan bay ; this pathway is rather dangerous, from the
nature of the sandy soil, and a deep precipice over-
hanging the sea on the left side of the road ; danger
is always to be apprehended from the rolling down of
loose fragments of the rock, a casualty to which the
little village is also Hable. There have been instances
of large blocks of the rock rolling over into the
interior of the houses through the roof. The late
commanding officer's quarter was thus visited on
one occasion by a heavy boulder, but the family for-
tunately escaped being hurt. During tempestuous
weather, the sea approaches some of the houses, and

OF GIBRALTAR. 47

the water finds its way sometimes into the lower
apartments. In summer this village might be made
a delightful residence, were it not for the easterly
wind which has here its worst effects. The sun sink-
ing a few hours after noon behind this part of the
rock, leaves the rest of the day cool and agreeable ;
there are, however, but few commodious houses avail-
able to families requiring summer quarters. The
population of the village scarcely exceeds three hun-
dred souls ; they are chiefly engaged in fishing.
There is here a Roman Catholic chapel, with a small
school attached to it. About thirty soldiers are always
stationed here, in charge of a captain, who is also the
civil superintendent of the place.

Gibraltar being a free port, and affording so many
facilities for smuggling into Spain, attracts within its
walls men of nearly all nations, so that a stranger
arriving at Gibraltar, meets in the principal street
people of various colours and tongues. The most
attractive of these are the stately Moors from Barbary,
with flowing drapery around their manly fonns. Some
of this fine race of people are nearly as fair as Eu-
ropeans, with light gi-ey eyes. Most of the Jews
retain their ancient costume ; but the wealthier, or
rather the better educated classes, wear the European
dress.

The following is a tabular view of the civil popula-
tion of Gibraltar.

48

TOPOGRAPHY

CENSUS TAKEN IN 1840.

Classes of Population.

British horn suhjects

Native Christians ,

Native Jews

Barbary Jews

Belgians

Brazilians

Danes

French

Genoese

Greeks

lonians

Italians

Moors

Portuguese

Persians

Spaniards

South Americans

Swedes

Swiss

Turks

Natives of the United States
Germans

Males.

Above

Under

Twelve

Twelve

Years.

Years.

387

39

2610

1757

456

175

251

2

1

...

1

...

1

...

42

1

612

6

2

...

3

...

95

...

15

...

368

1

1

...

774

18

2

1

I

...

9

.. .

1

...

23

...

Females.

Above
Twelve
Years.

413

2934

537

21

1

22

339

I
13

219

1352

1
1
2

Under
Twelve
Years.

29

1761

165

RECAPITULATION.

British suhjects 11,313

Aliens 4,241

Total 15,554

Married 4,029

Single 10,275

Atscliool I ^'824 GMs!

Protestants 1,343

Catholics 12,577

Hebrews 1,620

Mahomedans 14

Total 15,554

The census for 1844 gives an increase of nearly
three hnndred over that of 1840, and it is with con-
siderable difficulty that the increase is kept within

OF GIBRALTAR. 49

certain limits, for as it is, Gibraltar is over-populated.
From the foregoing table, it will appear that the
major part of the population is composed of the
descendants of Spaniards, Portuguese, Jews, and
Genoese. The number of English descendants is
comparatively few. The occupations of this mixed
class of population are necessarily various. The fol-
lowing list is from Martin's * Account of Gibraltar.,'
which the reader should consult for further information
on the rock, which could not possibly be introduced
4n this summary account of its topography.

160 Merchants.
226 Shopkeepers.
303 Clerks.
48 Landed proprietors.
4 Lawyers and notaries public.

24 Medical practitioners and apothecaries.
99 In government civil service.

19 In religious establishments.

25 Brokers.

309 Hawkers and dealers.
1042 Tradesmen and mechanics.
43 Wine and spirit dealers.

267 Gardeners, butchers, milk and fruit sellers.

880 Tobacconists and cigar-makers ! !

408 Mariners and fishermen.^

646 Porters and labourers.
2473 Servants, &c.

364 Various other occupations.

The following are without employment, or assisting
in domestic affairs: — 625 men, 1,985 boys, 2,957
women, 2,101 girls.

E

50 TOPOGRAPHY

The civil population is considered particularly orderly
and well-behaved ; crimes are not frequent or nume-
rous ; seldom are there more than five or six cases in
the quarterly criminal calendar. The civil suits rarely
possess any public interest. Drunkenness is not com-
mon among the poorer classes; however, the wine-
houses are usually full : — tliis is perhaps owing to the
idle propensities of the people, and then* penchant
to loitering habits.

The military consists of the six service companies
of five regiments, five companies of artillery, and
three companies of sappers and miners, amounting
to neai'ly four thousand men, with the usual comple-
ment of general and medical staff officers.

The duties of the soldier in Gibraltar are considered
rather severe, particularly to those of newly aiTived
corps ; and to young soldiers the pioneer duties must
be very fatiguing. I have not the least doubt that
the increased proportion of sickness in these corps is,
in a great measure, attributable to this cause, especially
in the summer months. However, medical officers
in general consider the employment of soldiers in the
public works as conducive to health, or, in other
words, that " it keeps them in healthful exercise ;"
whilst they regret that the extra pay allowed to sol-
diers for this kind of labour enables them to drink
larger quantities of spkits and wine.

The ration in this garrison consists of one pound
of bread, and one pound of meat per day, fi-esh
or salt ; the salt meat being usually served once in
four days. This allowance, with a proportion of wine

OF GIBRALTAR. 61

and vegetables, is divided into two meals in the day ; the
breakfast at eight, a.m., consisting of bread and coffee -,
and the dinner at one, p.m., consisting of the beef and
potatoes, or any other vegetable which may be pro-
vided. There is no regulated evening meal ; most
of the soldiers resort in the evenings, when off duty,
to wine-houses and taverns; and since the Tempe-
rance Coffee-room was opened, under the superinten-
dence of Captain Carter, of the " Royals," a few spend
their leisure hours there. If, by any possible means,
an evening meal could be established throughout the
service, I am sure the result would be very beneficial ;
for, as it is, eighteen hours is too long fasting for
healthy men. The poorer classes of the civil popula-
tion subsist chiefly upon fish and vegetables, which
are to be had, in great abundance, both cheap and
good. The beef is of cattle imported from Barbary ;
but, though stall-fed just before killed, it rarely equals
the common kinds of English beef. Nor is the mut-
ton much better. English mutton, brought by the
steam packets, is highly prized ; it is seldom seen but
in the regimental messes, where the demand for a
" slice of English mutton" is more frequently made
than for any other dish. Veal and lamb, of inferior
qualities, are also sold in the market ; pork is by far
the best meat in Gibraltar. Poultry is abundant,
and tolerably cheap. Seldom is there any other game
than hares, red-legged partridges, and quails, found in
the market.

The government of this settlement is in the hands
of the governor, who is also the general officer com-

E 2

52 TOPOGRAPHY OF GIBRALTAR.

manding the troops of the garrison. Justice is ad-
ministered according to the English law. The police
regulations have lately been much improved, under
the supervision of its present learned attorney-gene-
ral. By one of the police regulations, no alien can
reside in the garrison without special permission
being first obtained from the police magistrate, and
this he will not receive unless some respectable house-
holder on the rock stands secuiity for his good
conduct.

The society of Gibraltar resembles the society of
most garrison towns, the nature of which can be best
understood by those who have at any time resided in
one. There are few sources of amusement in
Gibraltar. In vam mil the lover of the fine arts
seek to gratify his tastes. Opera and theatrical com-
panies have very little support, and consequently their
visits to the rock are few and far between. The ofii-
cers of the garrison keep a tolerably good pack of
hounds, which is to them a great source of healthful
enjoyment, and to the Spaniards one of astonish-
ment. The races, too, come off with great ^cldt.
Public balls are held in the winter, which serve to
keep the young people amused.

I have thus brought to a conclusion this sketch of
the town and inhabitants of Gibraltar, which I regret
to say is necessarily a very short one. The cmious
reader will, however, find the little guide-book to
Gibraltar a very good Itinerary.

PART II.
BOTANY OF GIBRALTAR

Fair Nature! thee, in all thy varied charms,
Fain would I clasp, for ever, in my arms !
Thine are the sweets which never, never sate : —
Thine still remain, through all the storms of fate.

H. KiUKi-; White.

PART II.
BOTANY OF GIBRALTAR.

On entering the Mediterranean Straits, Gibraltar
appears to be a ban'en rock; but as the stranger
approaches land, he is happily undeceived by find-
ing a great part of the rock covered with vegeta-
tion. After he has passed the South-port gate, he
finds liimself in the Alameda, which is tastefully laid
out; and as he prolongs his walk, he is still more sm*-
prised to find that Gibraltar can boast of its gardens
and walks lined with beautiful shrubs and plants,
shaded by stately poplars and bellasombras,* Even
as early as December the colour of the rock is varied
by luxuriant vegetation, though of a diminutive
description, which with magical rapidity changes
its simimer dress and arid appearance, immediately
after the first falls of rain ; masses of green of every
tint, harmonising beautifully with the yellow bloom of
the Spartium and Genista, and the fragile umbels of
the Oxalis cernua, which gi'ows here almost wild.
The whole appearance of the rock, near the Alameda,

* Phytolacca dioica.

56 BOTANY

is charming, and one who has not seen tropical vege-
tation, would scarcely believe that at such a season
nature could look so beautiful. On a fine sunny
day these attractions tempt every lover of natm-e to
quit his home for a ramble over this picturesque
ground, or to saunter in the gayer paths of the Ala-
meda gardens, where, with "fairer flowers" of all
shades and figures, he may breathe the air scented by
a thousand blossoms; these are the beauties of the
"sunny south" found even on this small rock.
Earlier in the spring, before other brilliant flowers
can draw one's attention, the promenade in these
gardens is rendered captivating enough by the thou-
sand gorgeous chandelier-like groups of the Bai'ba-
does aloe, mixing its red pine-shaped blossoms with
pelargoniums of every tint, while the gi'acefiil " silver
broom"* waves its delicate foliage and white flowers
over the sides of the narrow and tortuous paths,
leading to channing alcoves and silent retreats.

A naiTow pathway leads from the Alameda to the
high road, on the sides of which the botanist may
gather a number of most interesting plants, such as
Vinca media. Convolvulus althaeoides, Verbascum
sinuatum. Clematis cirrhosa, Asphodelus ramosus.
Acanthus mollis, Psoralea bituminosa, &c. On walls
by the road-side he will find Lactuca tenerrima and
Barkhausia taraxacifolia. A road to the left leads
up to St. Michael's cave ; before proceeding further
he will find here elegant specimens of Genista Hni-

* Spartium monospermum.

OF GIBRALTAR. 57

folia, Centaurea polyacantlia, Aristolochia glauca,
the Smilax aspera, and the beautiful Lonicera implexa.
A little higher up is a pathway, leading to a romantic
little garden, solely made by an old man, whose
retreat was not known till he had made this small
spot " his little paradise." There, under the shade
of Pinus sylvestris and Ceratonia siliqua, the middle
classes, with their families, spend a few hours, taking
such refreshment as their humble means afford.

The botanist, after visiting this spot, may retrace
his steps to the road leading to St. Michael's cave ;
on his way down he will, perhaps, find specimens of
Jasminum fruticans, and, if later in summer, he will
see Daphne gnidium in blossom, with a hundred other
interesting plants, such as Lavandula dentata, Teu-
crium fruticans, and T. lucidum. It is quite necessary
to leave the road, and climb up the rocks (which,
however), is no easy matter, to gather anything like a
variety ; having done so, he meets with a great num-
ber of plants, and they become more interesting the
higher he ascends, from the scarcity of some of the
species. The whole side of the rock in this locality
is covered with the broom tribe of plants. Genista
linifolia and Sarothamnus boeticus being the most
conspicuous, and here are seen different species of
Centaurea, Kentrophyllum arborescens, Scolymus
hispanicus, and, at distant intervals, Atractylis can-
cellata, Scabiosa stellata, and a few comparatively
rare plants, such as Linum maiitimum, Lychnis
dioica, Biscutella microcarpa. Campanula erinoides.
We shall now suppose the botanist to have examined

68 BOTANY

this locality, and to proceed eastward towards
0'Hara*s tower, after also having visited St. MichaeFs
cave, where he has, perhaps, found Scolopendrium
Hemionitis, and Adiantum Capillus- Veneris, and some
others of the fern tribe, in the crevices of the rock.
A road leads up to O'Hara's tower, but the lower one,
leading round to the Mediterranean stairs, is still
more interesting ; and on his way he will ^nd the
sides of the rock covered with Teucrium polium,
Stachys circinata, Conyza saxatilis, and occasion-
ally he will meet with Calendula incana, and more
rai'ely Calendula stellata, and Convolvulus siculus.
Anchusa italica and Borago officinalis he will also
see here, but they are more abundant on the lower
parts of the rock. On aiiiving at about the old sub-
terranean barrack, now in ruins, before entering Jthe
tunnel which leads round the rock, it will be well to
scramble a little over the rocks in this locality, and
he will here see Silene velutina, and occasionally
Silene gibraltarica, with fine specimens of Delphinium
pentagynmn. After passing the first tunnel he will
observe on the sides of the rock Linaria tiistis
and L. villosa, and above these he will see Rham-
nus oleoides and Phylleria media. A little further on
takes him to the winding path leading to the Medi-
terranean staii's, and in this locality there is a
rich field of plants ; Phlomis purpurea and Chamae-
rops humilis being the most conspicuous. Among
many others he will gather Allium roseum, A. spha^ro-
cephalum, Linaria amethystina, Nepeta tuberosa,
Statice emarginata, Aristolochia mauritanica, Ceras-

OF GIBRALTAR. 69

tium gibraltaricum, and Melica aspera. In the crevices
of the rock and caves in this neighbourhood he will
find Umbilicus pendulinus, Asplenium trichomanes,
Ceterach officinarum, &c. On ascending the Medi-
teiTanean stairs, he will observe Helichrysum rupestre,
Jasione montana, Scilla peruviana, Iberis gibraltarica;
and in this locality he will also gather the beautiful
Iris filnolia of Boissier.

It will be fruitless for me to attempt giving a
lengthened account of the vegetation of the different
localities ; this can be better understood by referring
to the Synopsis of Plants ; however, I shall now pro-
ceed to give briefly a general view of the vegetation
of the lower parts of the rock.

On Europa-flat is situated the mess-room of the
regiment stationed on Windmill-hill; on the most
southern point is a Hghthouse, recently erected. This
pai't of the rock contains but few shrubs, and upon
the whole there are not here many species. The
most common species are — Momordica Elaterium, Or-
nithogalum umbellatum, Moraea sisyrinchium, Aspho-
delus fistulosus, and Glaucium luteum. A little
further on, are found in great abundance, the Statice
sinuata, Anthyllis tetraphylla, Ixia Bulbocodium,
Ononis serrata, Buphthalmuni maritimum. On the
slopes below he will find the beautiful Senecio minu-
tus, and several species of Medicago and Lotus.
Above the road is situated the governor's cottage, a
delightful summer residence ; behind this building
are several interesting plants, and among them is a
species of Iris which has not yet been identified.

60 BOTANY

The road from Europa leads to a romantic little
place, called Glenrocky, near Em'opa-pass, on which
is situated the house now occupied by the chief
justice ; a pretty little garden is attached to it, and
the ivy and aloe cover most pait of the rock surround-
ing it. In this neighbourhood, on the other side of
the road, grows Narcissus niveus ; and early in au-
tumn the Colchicmn is also seen here. We now pass
large plantations of Agave americana. A few houses
are here scattered, and surrounded by small but neat
gardens. On the side of the rock, in this locality,
grows, in great abundance, Sempervivum arboreum.
Keeping the high road, we come to the residence of
Mr. Bracebridge, who has several acres of his land
cultivated with flowers of the choicest kinds ; and here
grows a gigantic fig-tree, which is well worth the
stranger's attention. Adjoining this garden is the
residence of the captain of the port. The house has
been lately rebuilt, but it has no claims to architectu-
ral merit. The grounds around it are certainly spa-
cious, and planted >vith some taste, considering the
small extent of the rock. On these grounds grow
many stately old trees, among which is a beautiful
specimen of Magnolia. A variety of plants is found
at the back of these premises, such as Linaiia lani-
gera, Lotus angustifolius, Fumaria capreolata, Pallenis
spinosa, &c. Descending the Windmill-road, a
long flight of steps leads to the road which communi-
cates with the Naval Hospital and South Pavilions.
On these steps I gathered Coronopus |didyma ; and
on the side walls were a few elegant specimens

OF GIBRALTAR. 61

of Lactuca tenerrima, whose light lilac flowers attract
general attention nearly throughout the simimer, the
flowers appearing even long after the leaves have
died. On reaching the Naval Hospital, an open
space of ground is seen hefore it, shaded by fine spe-
cimens of Phytolacca dioica. Under the most shel-
tered one may be seen a seat reserved for the use of
the medical officers of this large establishment, who,
after their morning labours, usually assemble here,
when the junior officers learn from the lips of one or
the other senior surgeons the result of their expe-
rience at the bedside of the sick soldier. Those
who are botanically inclined, will find in this neigh-
bourhood a small but interesting field to explore ; and
perhaps they cannot find a pursuit more likely to
benefit and at the same time to amuse them, after
leaving their respective wards, than to study the
beauties of even the few flowers witliin the walls of
the hospital. On the grassy surface is a variety of
Medicago and Lotus ; and on the walls and sides of
the rock are seen Iberis gibraltarica, Linaria tristis.
Campanula mollis, Buphthalmum maritimum, and the
lofty Sempervivum arboreum. Andryala integiifoHa
and a few specimens of the Solanum sodomeum may
also be seen in this locaHty. The available spaces in
the South-district are all densely cultivated with vege-
tables, flowers, &c. The soil is very productive,
consisting of a vegetable mould, highly impregnated
with animal matter, of which there is never a deficiency
in Gibraltar.

The road fi'om the town which leads to the galle-

64 BOTANY

congenial to his tastes. On descending by a lower
road from the signal-station, two or three small apolo-
gies for farms are passed ; and just above the middle
part of the town is the elegant residence of Dr. Bur-
row, the archdeacon of Gibraltar, who has, with great
taste and horticultural skill, laid out the garden sur-
rounding the " palace" with rare and beautiful trees.
I doubt not that he has ere this succeeded in natural-
izing some of the plants which grew from seeds sent
to me by my friends in Ceylon ; indeed, before I left
the rock, I had the pleasure of seeing several orna-
mental plants of that " garden of flowers" thriving as
well as they can be expected to do in Gibraltar. The
stranger could scarcely picture to himself a good gar-
den in Gibraltar ; but there are several, even in the
town, which may come under this designation. The
extent of some of these would perhaps surprise him ;
among the principal ones are, the gardens attached to
the quarters occupied by the colonels of artillery and
engineers; the garden belonging to the celebrated
wine-merchant, Mr. Glynn ; the one just mentioned,
belonging to the archdeacon ; and, the largest of all,
the convent garden. In the South-district there are
several very excellent flower-gardens ; the one at-
tached to the Alameda is under the particular care of
Captain Pogson, the garrison quarter-master, to whom
indeed much credit is due for the excellent preserva-
tion and increasing beauty of the Alameda ; and it is
surprising how much has been done, with so little
pecuniary means at his command. Mr. Danino's
nursery, though not very extensive, is kept in good

OF GIBRALTAR. 65

order. Most of the civil public officers have small
gardens attached to their houses ; the principal ones
are those of the judge, attorney-general, and regis-
trar of the supreme court. Besides flovrer-gardens,
there are several large spots of ground, in various
parts of the rock, cultivated vrith vegetables, but not
in sufficient quantities to supply the whole market ; —
two-thirds of the articles sold there are supplied ii*om
Barbary, and the adjoining parts of Spain. To visit
the market early in the morning is indeed a treat,
especially dming the fruit season : the quantities of
oranges, grapes, melons, figs, &c., piled up in every
stall, is a remarkably pleasing sight ; before evening
comes, the size of these heaps of luscious fruit is
greatly diminished : the quantity sold is almost incre-
dible. The shipping in the bay, which often amounts
to between two and three hundred sail, helps to con-
sume the enormous quantities of fruits and vegetables
seen in the Gibraltar market.

After visiting the market, the botanist will direct
his steps to the neutral ground ; but before he pro-
ceeds a few yards (if he is also an ichthyologist) he
will be glad to meet with so large a collection for
examination as is to be seen on the well-supplied fish-
stalls near the fruit-market. The abundance of fish
in the mai'ket of Gibraltar is almost proverbial, and
their variety is still more remarkable : however, I
shall not stop here to inquire into then* number, but
confine myself to enumerating a few most commonly
met with, viz. — the Zeus faber, Pleuronectes solea,
Mullus barbatus, Clupea encrasicolus, two species of

F

66 BOTANY

Scomber, the Muraena anguilla, and Sepia octopus.
The most favomite kinds are the John Dorees, red
surmullets, anchovies, and sardines, — especially the
three latter, which are to be had in great perfection,
and are exceedingly cheap. A pennyworth of fish is
sufficient for a moderate-sized family ; the poorer
classes rarely eat any other animal food.

Ayala, a Spanish writer, in his interesting ' History
of Gibraltar,' mentions that an extensive tunny-fishery
was rented to the city of Gibraltar for 10,000 mara-
vedies, though now this fish is not at all common in
the Mediterranean -, whereas, some centuries ago,
ships were loaded with them from neighbouring ports,
and the fishery afforded a large revenue to the state.
" Above all tilings," says Portillo (quoted by Ayala),
" is there in Gibraltar a great abundance of fish ;
that from thence great part of Andalusia is supphed
with carriers, who, to get a load of fish, carry there
one of bread or oil ; as are also Malaga, Almeria,
and the neighbouring towns."* Even in the present
day, large quantities of preserved anchovies and sar-
dines are exported fi'om Gibraltar.

The botanist, after having gratified his taste for
fishes, will pass through the Puerta de la Tierra, and
find himself outside the rock of Gibraltar. On the
left is the bay, which at this part has extensive oyster-
beds, reserved for the Gibraltar market. The lagoon
(see Ayala), now turned into a kind of moat, called the

* See Mr. Bell's excellent translation of Ayala's work,
just published by Pickering.

OF GIBRALTAR. 67

" inundation," contains large quantities of sea-weed ;
the removal of which is almost the constant occupation
of several men, as its accumulation rapidly increases,
and it is very Hable to putrefy, the water in this reservoir
being a mixture of rain and sea-water. Ruppia ros-
tellata, and a species of Potamogeton, are found in
this basin. On a small bank to the right may yet
remain a few specimens of Lotus tetragonolobus,
Physalis somnifera. Datura Metel, and Silene vesper-
tina. It was here that I gathered the Centaurea solsti-
tialis, which might have been introduced, as this bank
is a depository for rubbish. The glacis in this neigh-
bourhood is covered with Cucubalus belien, and a
variety of gi-asses, among which are Dactylis hispa-
nica, and Hordeum murinum.

Passing along the moat, after leaving the bay-side
guard, a road to the right leads to Catalan-bay, almost
round the northern side of the rock, which has lately
been extensively quarried for stones to erect the new
works ; at the same time making this part of the rock
more inaccessible to the enemy. On the left of the
road is the neutral ground, and near its edge are
found fields of Ranunculus buUatus, and R. flabella-
tus : later in summer these are succeeded by the large
variety of Thrincia hirta. The road to the bay ter-
minates in a bridle-path, cut through the sandy bank,
which extends for more than half-a-mile eastward, and
in a crescentic-shaped part is situated the small vil-
lage, seen now from the highest part of the road. On
this bank grow, in great abundance. Ononis ramo-
sissima. Delphinium peregrinum, and Matthiola Brous-

F 2

66 BOTANY

Scomber, the Mursena anguilla, and Sepia octopus.
The most favomite kinds are the John Dorees, red
surmullets, anchovies, and sardines, — especially the
three latter, which are to be had in great perfection,
and are exceedingly cheap. A pennyworth of fish is
sufficient for a moderate-sized family ; the poorer
classes rarely eat any other animal food.

Ayala, a Spanish writer, in his interesting ' History
of Gibraltar,' mentions that an extensive tunny-fishery
was rented to the city of Gibraltar for 10,000 mara-
vedies, though now this fish is not at all common in
the Mediterranean ; whereas, some centuries ago,
ships were loaded with them from neighbouring ports,
and the fishery afforded a large revenue to the state.
" Above all things," says Portillo (quoted by Ayala),
" is there in Gibraltar a great abundance of fish ;
that from thence great part of Andalusia is supphed
with cai'riers, who, to get a load of fish, carry there
one of bread or oil ; as are also Malaga, Almeria,
and the neighbouring towns."* Even in the present
day, large quantities of preserved anchovies and sar-
dines are exported fi:om Gibraltar.

The botanist, after having gi-atified his taste for
fishes, will pass through the Puerta de la Tierra, and
find himself outside the rock of Gibraltar. On the
left is the bay, which at this part has extensive oyster-
beds, reserved for the Gibraltar market. The lagoon
(see Ayala), now turned into a kind of moat, called the

* See Mr. Bell's excellent translation of Ayala's work,
just published by Pickering.

OF GIBRALTAR. 67

^' inundation," contains large quantities of sea-weed ;
the removal of which is almost the constant occupation
of several men, as its accumulation rapidly increases,
and it is very Uable to putrefy, the water in this reservoir
being a mixture of rain and sea-water. Ruppia ros-
tellata, and a species of Potamogeton, are found in
this basin. On a small bank to the right may yet
remain a few specimens of Lotus tetragonolobus,
Physalis somnifera. Datura Metel, and Silene vesper-
tina. It was here that I gathered the Centaurea solsti-
tialis, which might have been introduced, as this bank
is a depository for rubbish. The glacis in this neigh-
bourhood is covered with Cucubalus belien, and a
variety of glasses, among which are Dactylis hispa-
nica, and Hordeum murinum.

Passing along the moat, after leaving the bay-side
guard, a road to the right leads to Catalan-bay, almost
round the northern side of the rock, which has lately
been extensively quarried for stones to erect the new
works ; at the same time making this part of the rock
more inaccessible to the enemy. On the left of the
road is the neutral ground, and near its edge are
found fields of Ranunculus buUatus, and R. flabella-
tus : later in summer these are succeeded by the large
variety of Thrincia hirta. The road to the bay ter-
minates in a bridle-path, cut through the sandy bank,
which extends for more than half-a-mile eastward, and
in a crescentic-shaped part is situated the small vil-
lage, seen now from the highest part of the road. On
this bank grow, in great abundance. Ononis ramo-
sissima. Delphinium peregrinum, and Matthiola Brous-

F 2

68 BOTANY

sonetii. At distant intervals may be seen the delicate
Linaria amethystea, and L. pedunculata. Proceeding
on further, this path descends, and its right side be-
comes rocky : on the edges of these rocks are found
large masses of Statice emarginata, and Crithmum
maritimum ; and in their fissures is seen the beautiful
Linaria villosa. Having gained the little fishing
village, one might rest here a while, and see the
fishermen drawing in their nets, and no doubt their
contents will also be interesting to the naturahst.
After this little variety he must be prepared to walk
through nearly ankle-deep sand, in order to reach
the small sandy bay beyond the village ; and having
arrived there, he will scarcely find more than a dozen
plants, such as Medicago marina, Pancratium mariti-
mum, Salsola rosacea, &c. On some of the blocks of
limestone may be seen handsome clusters of the
Adiantum Capillus- Veneris. Tliis little bay is ro-
mantically situated facing the Mediterranean, but it
is not inhabited, and only resorted to by pic-nic
parties, and fishing-boats put in there occasionally.
The sandy deposits are here distinctly stratified, and
hardened evidently by calcareous infiltrations. There
is no passage to lead the botanist to the other side of
the rock ; he must retrace his steps to the neutral
ground, where he will find a number of plants which
he has not seen on the rock.

Tlie greater part of the sandy isthmus belonging to
the garrison is covered with good turf, on which,
during the race-weeks, may be seen some fine speci-
mens of Andalusian horses. The race-course is at

OF GIBRALTAR. 69

this time a very animated scene ; here are found the
Spaniards, in their national costume ; and to afford a
little vaiiety a race is run hy horses ridden by their
Spanish masters, not dressed as jockeys but in their
native garbs. On a late occasion, even the comman-
dant of the Spanish lines was seen taking an active
part in the emulative spirit of his countrymen. The
scene is rendered still more interesting by the
presence of well-dressed Spanish women, in their
graceful mantillas, seated on gaily painted Spanish
calecas. The race-stand, though small, contains
also a choice collection of Spanish and English ladies
and gentlemen, taking evidently a very animated
interest in the exciting pleasures of the turf. The
cricket-matches also go off on these grounds. Upon
the whole, without this part of the isthmus, the rock
of Gibraltar would afford to the inhabitants but a very
small space for recreation and healthful exercise.
What indeed would Gibraltar be to the large number
of gentlemen of this garrison, if they had neither
races, hunting, nor cricketing ? However, I must no
longer exhaust the patience of the botanist with these
desultory matters, but hasten to tell him a little of
the beauties which vegetable nature presents on tliis
anything but neutral ground.

The governor, town-major, and I believe the town-
adjutant, have small portions of this land allotted to
them, which are used for various useful purposes, and
where also a few flowers and vegetables are culti-
vated. A large space is rented out to gardeners,
who make the best use of the land by cultivating all

70 BOTANY

sorts of vegetables ; the soil is richly manured with
the refuse from the garrison, which unfortunately
makes this place very unpleasant to the olfactory
organs. On the uncultivated parts grow a variety of
beautiful plants, such as the Muscari comosum, Ero-
dium moschatum, Verbena officinalis, Centaurea
calcitrapa, &c. Later in summer these are replaced
by the curious Tribulus terrestris, and the not less
interesting Euphorbia Chamaesyce. On the eastern
side, where the soil is more sandy, the Picridium tin-
gitanum is found in great abundance, as also a few
specimens of the Eryngium ilicifolium and Caucalis
maritima ; both these plants are more frequently
met with beyond the line of British sentries. Neai' a
damp place, about twenty yards from the middle part
of the vegetable-garden, may be seen a large collection
of Mentha Pulegium var. tomentella : no doubt this
plant was called by Willdenow M. Gibraltaiica, from
seeing it grow here. Bentham, the celebrated autho-
rity on this tribe of plants, has shown it to be only a
variety of the M. Pulegium. Cichorium Intybus, or
divaricatum, grows here in great abundance, as also
Mentha rotundifolia. The vegetation on the western
side of this part of the isthmus presents a somewhat
different character ; very few plants which grow on
the other side are found here, whereas Euphorbia
Parahas, Erodium cicutarium, and Glaucium luteum
supply their place. The same remarkable difference
is observed on the real neutral-ground, beyond the
localities just described. On the eastern side, the
soil being nearly composed of sea-sand, scarcely

OF GIBRALTAR. 71

eighteen species are found ; the prevailing ones being
Pancratium maritimum, Ononis variegata, Picridium
tingitanum,Cachrys Pterochlaena (which covers nearly
one-fourth of both sides of the neutral-ground*), and
Silene nicaeensis. On the western side, the sand
being thinly covered with soil, and also being much
lower than on the eastern side, contains, in addition
to the plants just enumerated, several other kinds
equally interesting, such as Juncus acutus, Cyperus
badius. Ononis natrix, O. reclinata, and several sorts
of grasses, among which are found the beautiful
Festuca Alopecurus, and the singular Schoenus mu-
cronatus.

Till very lately it has not been the good fortune of
any of the medical officers of the garrison to spend a
night on the neutral-ground, and it is to be hoped
that the opportunities which are now afforded will be
taken advantage of, and that a series of hygrometric
observations will be made, and all atmospherical phe-
nomena recorded. The temperature of the neutral-
ground, especially during night, is often as much as
five degrees less than in the town. A moonlight view
of the rock, from the old north-front guard (where by
turn, in common with the other medical officers of the
garrison, have I spent some delightful hours), is
indeed a sight well worth being shut out of the garri-
son to be enabled to see, and is a full compensation

* This is that remarkable umbelliferous plant, the abun-
dance of which fails not to attract the attention of the
most indifferent.

72 BOTANY OF GIBRALTAR.

for the few hoiu's spent by professional men on
guard.*

I have now to apologize to the reader for confining
myself, in this botanical sketch, to the limits of the
neutral-ground, hoping, in another part of the work,
to satisfy his further curiosity ; and I take this oppor-
tunity, in presenting the following list of Gibraltar
plants, to acknowledge most thankfully the interest
shown by several botanical friends in this undertaking.

Sir William Hooker I have to thank for the gene-
rous manner in which he so kindly permitted me the
use of his valuable collection ; and his son. Dr. Hoo-
ker (the learned author of the Flora Antarctica),
for his able assistance in settling the specific charac-
ters of some rare plants. I am also under similar
obligations to Dr. Lemann, Mr. Bennet, of the British
Museum, and Mr. Eappist, of the Linnean Society ;
and the interest shown by Mr. Robert Brown, is not
likely to be effaced from the memory of one of his
humble admirers.

* Previous to Sir Robert Wilson's government, nearly
600 people, living on the neutral-ground and at Catalan-bay,
were totally unprovided with medical advice on the spot.
The governor having seen the inconvenience of disturbing
the authorities to open the gates, perhaps at dead of night,
has very considerately placed a medical officer, at night,
on one of the guards, to meet any casualties which may
occur during the hours the gates are closed.

PART III.
SYNOPSIS OF PLANTS

" Despise not thou the wild flower ! — Small it seems.
And of neglected growth, and its light bells
Hang carelessly on every passing gale : —
Yet it is finely wrought, and colours there
Might shame the Tyrian purple ; and it bears
Marks of a care eternal and divine.
Duly the dews descend to give it food ;
The sun revives it drooping, and the showers
Add to its beauty ; and the airs of heaven
Are round it for delight."

" Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow ; they toil not, neither do they
spin: And yet I say unto you. That even Solomon in all bis glory was not
arrayed like one of these."

PART III.
SYNOPSIS OF PLANTS

DICOTYLEDONES.*

RANUNCULACEiE, Juss.

Clematis cirrhosa, L,

CL semitriloba, Lag. Gen. et Sp.

Hab. Portugal, Spain, Corsica, Italy. Barbary. Syria.

Obs. — Grows in great profusion on the declivities of the rock,
opposite the Alameda, and in hedges along the high road to
Europa-point.

Ranunculus buUatus, L, Olc-z.sr^trrt

R, autumnalis, Clus.

Hab. South of Europe. Barbary.

Ranunculus flabellatus, Desf,

R, Cheer ophylloSy var. p, flabellatus, Boiss.

Hab. Mediterranean regions. Portugal. Asia Minor.
Barbary.

Obs. — Both species are found in some abundance on the neutral-
ground and Spanish race-course.

* Where no particular locality is mentioned, it is to be understood
that the plant is found in more than one part of the rock.

76 SYNOPSIS OF

Ranunculus blepharicai'pos, Boiss.

Boiss. tab. 1, A.

R, monspeliacus, Desf.

Hab. South of Spain, Portugal. Barbary.

Obs. — Found on Europa-flat, near the artillery-barracks, by Dr.
Lemann.

Nigella damascena, L,

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa. Canary Isles.
Obs. — N. Hispanica is found near St. Roque.

Delphinium peregrinum, L. ck,CL.^ iL^^^c^^

Var. a, confertum, Boiss. Rami abbreviati, ra-
cemi conferti, pedicelli calcai-e breviores.

Var. &, longipes, Boiss. Z>. longipes, Moris. Ra-
mi elongati, flores distantes, pedicelli elongati,
bractea calcareque longiores.

Hab. South of Europe. Palestine.

Obs. — These two varieties, though considered by some bota-
nists as two distinct species, have been pointed out by Bois-
sier to be only varieties. The former grows on the declivities
near Catalan-bay, and the latter near the Spanish lines and
neutral-ground ; and is found also in great abundance on the
road to St. Roque.

Delphinium pentagynum, Desf,
Hab. South of Europe. Barbary.

Obs. — This beautiful species of larkspur is rather rare in Gibral-
tar, and is met with only on the higher parts of the rock.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 77

PAPAVERACEiE, De C.

Papaver Rhoeas, L. / ^^^^^^

Hab. Asia. Europe — Britain. North of Africa. Canaries.
Papaver dubium, L.

Hab. Europe — Britain. (Rare in Gibraltar).
Papaver Argemone, L. t^inc^ /^'(Uc^hJ^ /t-^/'-f^/

Hab. Europe — Britain. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
Papaver Jiybridum, h.

Hab. Europe — Britain. Canaries. (Rare in Gibraltar).
Papaver somnifenim, L. /'j^tc^r^'^li^

Hab. Portugal, Spain, France. Africa.

Obs. — I have met with so few specimens of this species away from
cultivated soil, that T am inclined to believe it is not indigenous
to the rock. It is found in abundance in gardens.

Glaucium luteum. Scop, - - ^4^'^v« ^^i -^^-^i /-**/v^^

Hab. Europe — Britain. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
North America. Canary Tsles.

Obs. — Chiefly met with on Europa-flat, and on the neutral-
ground. A few specimens are also seen above the Alameda,
near the beds of Ononis and Verbascum sinuatum.

FUMARIACE^, Be C.

Fumaria capreolata, L. T^ct^-v^u^^^iUrly

Hab. Europe — Britain. Barbary.

Obs. — This plant fonns a peculiar feature in the vegetation of
the lower parts of Gibraltar, where it is found in great abun-
dance, covering almost every hedge and road-side.

78 SYNOPSIS OF

Fumaria parviflora, Lam,

Hab. Europe — Britain. Africa.

Obs. — Not quite so common as the above species.

Fumaria officinalis, L.

Hab. Europe — Britain. Africa.

Obs. — Rare on the rock, but found in great abundance in the
neighbourhood of St. Roque and Algeciras.

MAGNOLIACE^.

Magnolia grandiflora, L.
Var. eUiptica.

Hab. Florida, Carolina.

Obs. — Cultivated in Gibraltar. Fine specimens of it are seen in
Sir John Sinclair's grounds, among a variety of exotics rarely
met with elsewhere.

ANNONACEiE, Rich.

Annona Cherimolia, M//. cl*^ ^^^<^u£. <x^^^<M^
Hab. South America.

Obs. — Cultivated, but rarely. The tree arrives at great perfection
near Malaga.

CRUCIFERiE, Juss.

Malcomia littorea, H, Br,

Hab. Portugal, Spain, France. Barbary.
Malcomia Broussonetii, T>e C,

Hab. Mediterranean shores, &c.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 79

Obs. — M. Boissier makes this species ouly a variety of the former ;
and indeed it is difficult to find characters sufficiently marked
to separate one from the other. The second species is more
numerous on the little sandy desert between the neutral-ground
and foot of Queen of Spain's Chair. It is also found with the
other species on the sandy hills near Catalan-bay.

Matthiola txicuspidata, jR. Br,
Hab. Mediterranean shores, &c.

Hesperis matronalis. Lam,
Var. sylvestris, De C.
Hab. Europe.

Obs. — Rare. Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Cardamine hirsuta, L. .iu:^/Urj, /^^^hj^^c^
Hab. Europe — Britain. North Africa. Persia.

Brassica papillaris, Boiss.
Hab. Portugal, Spain.

Obs. — This is a new species described by Boissier. (See Ap-
pendix). Found on the neutral-ground.

Brassica Sinapistrum, Boiss. ^a/^^-^-w-^-^
Sinapis arvensis, L.

Hab. Europe. Canary Isles.
Sinapis incana, L.

Hab. Germany, Britain, France. Canary Isles.
Sinapis alba, L,

Hab. Germany, England. Asia Minor. Canary Isles.
Rapistrum rugosum, Mcench.

Hab. Italy, Germany. Canaries.

80 SYNOPSIS OF

Coronopus didyma, Sm.

Hab. England. Malaga.

Obs. — Generally found on the neutral-ground, beyond the vege-
table-garden, in the neighbourhood of Mentha Pulegium ; as
also on steps leading to Windmill-road, &c.

Capsella Bursa-pastoris, L. - ,u^l^i4^vcC<f ^cct^u^L
Hab. Europe— Britain.

Koniga maritima, H. Br.
Alyssum maritimum, L.
Hab. South of Europe — Britain. Barbary.

Iberis Gibraltarica, L.
Hab. Gibraltar.

Obs. — This is by far the most beautiful species of candy-tuft ;
but strange to say, it is rarely cultivated in Gibraltar, whilst
other less beautiful species are found in every garden. This
species has as yet been found only in Gibraltar ; but it is quite
possible that it may grow on the opposite coast of Africa, all the
botanical treasures of which have not yet been determined.
Large masses of its light lilac-coloured flowers are seen on the
eastern side of the rock in the early part of summer, mixing
with the dark blue of the Scilla hemisphaerica. Specimens of
it are also seen on the sides of other parts of the rock, near the
Naval Hospital, Buena-vista, &c.

Biscutella microcarpa, De C,

Hab. Asia Minor. South of Europe.

Biscutella saxatilis, Boiss. non SchL
Hab. Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann. I have also gathered
specimens of Var. tomentosa.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 81

Bunias balearica, L.

Succowa balearica, De C.

Hab. Sardinia. Algiers. Sicily. Canary Isles.

CAPPARIDE^, Juss.

Capparis spinosa, L, c^'-fi-^C/^ uZi^^^ .
Hab. Portugal, Spain, France. N. Africa.

Obs. — Cultivated in gardens; grows in great perfection round
the convent walls.

CISTINEiE, Bun,

Cistus albidus, h,
Hab. Spain, Portugal. North of Africa.

Obs. — The Cistus populifolius, C. salvifolius, C. hirtus, and seve-
ral other species, grow on the Queen of Spain's Chair, and other
hills in the neighbourhood of Gibraltar. The road to the Cork-
wood is covered with them in summer.

POLYGALEi^, Jms,

Poly gala saxatilis, Desf, /-u^fu^^-myL

Hab. France, South of Spain. Barbary.

Obs. — If not mistaken, I have gathered also the P. amara.

FRANKENIACEiE, Sl Hil.

Frankenia laevis, L.

Hab. Europe, Britain. Canary Isles. Barbary.

Obs. — Grows in great abundance on the neutral-ground, and is
also found on Europa-flat and Windmill-hill.

G

82 SYNOPSIS OF

RESEDACEiE, De C.
Reseda undata, L. /t^<.<^^i.^^^<rx.^CZij

Hab. Spain. Barbary.

Reseda alba, h.
Hab. South of Europe, Britain. North of Africa.

Reseda luteola, L.
Hab. Europe, Britain. Barbary. Canary Isles.

Obs. — Sometimes mistaken for the R. virescens ; but the small
teeth at the base of the leaves are suflficiently characteristic of
this species ; however in some specimens the teeth are wanting
on the upper leaves.

^ Reseda lutea, h.

Hab. Europe, Britain. Barbary.

Obs. — I have met with this species only on and near cultivated
parts of the rock, and therefore I doubt whether it is indigenous
to Gibraltar. The scented Mignonette (R. odorata) is also cul-
tivated extensively here, and grows to great perfection in almost
any soil, and is occasionally seen on old walls and roofs of
houses.

CARYOPHYLLEiE, J»ws.

Dianthus caryophyllus, T>esf, vel. Auct. /U^/tZ

Hab. Spain, Portugal. Barbary.

Obs. — This beautiful plant is only found on the north face of the
rock, above St. George's-hall, where I for the first time found it
on a visit to the galleries, with Captain Aylmer, of the Royal
Artillery, to whom I am indebted for the locales of several rare

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 83

plants. I believe it may hereafter be found that this plant is
the D. sylvestris of Wulf, which Boissier found in Alhaurin,
Monda, &c., for it differs in a few points from the D. carjo-
phyllus of Desf.*

Dianthus prolifer, L.
Hab. Europe, Britain. Barbary.

Obs. — Not common on the rock, but found in great abundance on
the Queen of Spain's Chair and Cork-wood.

Silene bipartita, Desf.

Hab. Italy, Greece. Canaries. Barbary.
Silene nicaeensis, All.

Hab. Greece, Spain. Barbary.

Obs. — Generally with white flowers ; one of the few plants cha-
racteristic of the vegetation of the neutral-ground ; found also
in great abundance on the sandy bank on the road to Catalan-
bay.

Silene velutina, Pourr.

Hab. South of Spain, Corsica, Majorca, &c.
Obs. — Found on the higher parts of the rock.

Silene Gibraltarica, Boiss,

Boiss. tab. xxvi. A.

Hab. Gibraltar (rare).

Obs.— Before I had access to the work of M. Boissier, on * The
Plants of Spain,' I considered this species as only a variety of
the Silene velutina, to which it bears a strong resemblance; but
on obtaining fresh specimens, through the kindness of Lt.
Scott, R. E., I was enabled to determine its specific characters.

* Since writing the above remarks, I have compared the Gibraltar
plant with specimens of D. sylvestris in Sir W. Hooker's collection, and
found it to correspond.

G 2

84 SYNOPSIS OF

It is a rare plant, found in almost inaccessible fissures on the
eastern side of the rock. Silene velutina is found more fre-
quently on the western side of the rock. " Cette espece" (S. Gib-
raltarica), says M. Boissier, " dont je n'ai pu me procurer qu'un
seul echantillon, tant les lieux ou elle croit sont inaccessibles
est voisine du S. velutina, mais elle en est tres distincte, par ses
feuilles radicales bieu plus arrondies, d'une teinte noiratre, par
ses tiges, parfaitement cylindriques et glabres dans la partie
superieure, tandis que le S. velutina les a visqueuses et sul-
quees, par des calices beaucoup plus renfles dans la partie
superieure, meme pendant la floraisou, et munis a la base de
bractees bien plus courtes, par ses petales violets et bifides seule-
ment au tiers, de leur longeur." The plate given by Boissier
of this plant is a faithful representation, only that in the majo-
rity of specimens I obtained, the branches were more numerous
and ramified. The fresh flowers have a pleasant fragrant odour,
and scent the whole room in which they may happen to be.
(See Appendix).

Silene villosa, Forsk, Mg,
Var. /S. nana.

Obs. — The whole of this plant is viscid and pubescent, peduncles
short, leaves oblong-lanceolate. Found on the eastern side of
the neutral-ground, and occasionally on the roofs of houses.

Silene inflata, Sm. uuj.ifLj

Hab. Europe, Britain. Barbary. North America.

Obs. — A few specimens of this plant are scattered over most
parts of the rock; but the glacis before the Landport-guard
is covered with it.

Silene vespertina, Retz, Ohs,

Hab. South of Spain. Morocco. Greece.

Obs. — Rare on the rock. The solitary flower at the bifurcation of
the stem sufficiently distinguishes this species from the others.

Lychnis dioica, L. var. /3. L. ijL^ uoc'-<4u-irH
Lychnis vespertina, Sibth.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS 85

Hab. Europe. Barbary.

Obs. — Not very common on the rock.

Cerastium Gibraltaricum, Boiss
Boiss. tab. xxxii.
Hab. Gibraltar, and the Sierra de Agua.

/^yiU^-^/^^

Obs. — A new species of Boissier. (See Appendix). This plant
is found in great abundance on the eastern side of the rock,
and it is also found in small numbers on almost every part of
the rock, and on old walls (known in Gibraltar as the C.tomen-
losum). " La viscosite de toutes les parties de la plante," says
Boissier; " la longeur des feuilles et leur glabreite, la longueur
des sepales, la forme et la grandeur des petales qui sont plies et
uon simplement stries, distinguentbien cette espece du C. repens
et de ses varietes. Elite aurait plus de rapports avec le C.
grandiflorum, W. K, mais ce dernier a des feuilles tout-a-fait
lineaires, et les dents de la capsule un peu roulees en dehors du
haut en has." The figure in Boissier's work is extremely good.

Stellaria media, Vill. S&MUArnC
Hab. Europe, Britain. Canary Isles.

Alsine rubra, WahL

Hab. Spain, Germany, Britain.

Alsine procumbens, Wahl,

Hab. Spain, Italy, Sardinia. Barbary.
Alsine marina, Meri,

Hab. Europe. Barbary.

Alsine tenuifolia, Wahl,
Hab. Europe, Britain.

Ous.— Rare. Found at the hack of the rock by Dr. Leraann.

86 SYNOPSIS OF

Arenaria serpyllifolia, L.

Hab. Europe, Britain. Barbary.

Obs. — The A. spathulata, Desf., is found near Algeciras.

Arenaria montana, L.

Hab. Pyrenees, Spain, Portugal, France.

Spergula arvensis, L.
Hab. Europe. Barbary.

Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemanu,

LINEiE, De C.

Linum tenue, Desf. /5t^

Hab. South of Spain and Portugal. Barbary.

Linum usitatissimum, L, riA^ ^ ^^n^ct^'^f^^^^c^v^CL
Hab. Europe. North Africa.

Obs. — Although this plant is generally known as a cultivated
species, the specimens I gathered were not growing in cultirated
paits of the rock.

Linum strictum, L,

Hab. South of Europe. Barbary.

Linum maritimum, L.

Hab. South of Europe. Barbary.

Linum angustifolium, Huds, /i^^t/iunir Cca^^-^^ i^iut /i
Hab. Britain, France, Spain, Italy, Greece. Barbary.
Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 87

MALVACE^, Br.

Malva hispanica, L.

Hab. Spain, Portugal. Barbary.
Malva rotundifolia, L.

Hab. France, Britain, Spain, Greece. Asia Minor.
Malva nicseensis, L.

Hab. South of Europe. Barbary.
Malva sylvestris, L, uyz^^ ^.^^^^n^ U^^^^-^^Crur-

Hab. Europe, Britain. Barbary.
Lavatera arborea, L.

Hab. Britain, South of Europe, Greece, Sicily.
Lavatera maritima, L.

Hab. South of Spain, France, Sardinia. North of
Africa.

Lavatera trimestris, L.

Hab. Portugal, Spain, South of Italy. Barbary.

Obs. — Most of these species are very common in Gibraltar. Dr.
Lemann has in his collection specimens of a Lavatera, which
he found on one of the sloping banks near the governor's cot-
tage at Europa, but which he has not been able to identify.
The leaves are large, five-lobed, covered with soft hair ; flowers
small, axillary, on short peduncles : probably a variety of L.
cretica, L.

AURANTIACEiE, Corr.

Citrus Limonmn, Hiss,

Viilgo, Lemon, E. Limon, Sp.

Hab. Asia.

88 SYNOPSIS OF

Citrus medica, Riss,

Vulgo, Citron, E. Citron, Sp.

Hab. Asia.

Citnis Auiantium, Riss,

Vulgo, Sweet Orange, E. Narango, Sp.

Hab. Asia.

Citrus vulgaris, Riss,

Vulgo, Seville Orange, E. Limon de confitar,
Sp.

Hab. Asia.

Obs. — The climate of Gibraltar is well suited to the cultivation
of this tribe of useful plants ; but, with the exception of a
few specimens for ornamental purposes, lemon and orange tree-
are only seen in a few spots in the south-district, where the
fruit arrives at as great perfection as in more favoured situa-
tions ; but owing to the frequent communication with Barbary
and the interior of Spain (from which places the Gibraltar
market is chiefly supplied with fruits and vegetables), there is
no great inducement for their more extensive cultivation on the
rock.

HYPERICINEiE, De C,

Hypericum hircinum, L,
Hab. South of Europe.

Obs. — Introduced evidently, although it appears to grow wild in
hedges, &c. The H. pubescens, H. tomentosum, and other
species, are found in the near neighbourhood of Gibraltar ; and
one or two may possibly be found in Gibraltar.

MELIACEA^, Juss,

Melia azedai'ach, L.
Hab. Asia.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 89

Obs. — This species of the bead-tree is extensively cultivated in
all parts of Spain, and forms one of the chief ornaments of the
Alameda. In Gibraltar this tree is only met with in gardens.

AMPELIDEiE, H.B.etK,

Vitis vinifera, L,

Hab. South of Europe, &c.

Obs. — The grape is cultivated in Gibraltar more for ornamental
than useful purposes. Some of the vines produce fine fruit,
though not in sufficient quantities to make wines. The
Jews manufacture a home wine from the black grapes pur-
chased in the market, which is abundantly supplied from the
vineyards of Andalusia. The muscatel grape grows in great
perfection at Sandy-bay, near Algeciras, to taste the luscious
juice of which, this retreat is frequented in summer by the resi-
dents of Gibraltar.

GERANIACEiE, De C,

Geranium dissectum, L,
Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa. Canaries.

n( Geranium moUe, L.

Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa.

n( Geranium robertianum, L, ^^^ {^^^/Z-c^i^
Hab. Europe, Britain. Barbary. Canary Isles.

Erodium moschatum, Willd,
Hab. South of Europe, Britain. Canary Isles. Barbary.

Erodium malachoides, ^illd.

Hab. Mediterranean shores. Canary Isles.

90 SYNOPSIS OF

Erodium cicutarium, Lem,

Hab. Europe, Britain. Asia Minor. Barbary .

Obs. — This extremely polymorpbous species is only seen on tlie
neutral-ground. The most common species in Gibraltar are
the E. moschatum and E. malachoides. Several varieties of
Pelargoniums are cultivated in the Alameda.

OXALIDE.E, De C.

Oxalis cernua, Thunb. SlrUuAi,

Hab. Cape of Good Hope.

Obs. — A double variety of this beautiful Oxalis is also met with
in Gibraltar. This plant being found so abundant near the
Alameda, and likewise near the signal -station, it has been sup-
posed by casual visitors to be a native of the rock ; but there is
no doubt that it is a Cape plant, introduced into Gibraltar
about twenty years ago (as Colonel Mitchell, R. A., informed
me that it was not found in Gibraltar before that time). It
appears also to have been introduced into Sardinia (Boiss.) and
Malta, and that it grows there almost as wild. The Oxalis
comiculata is found in the Cork-wood, and unauthenticated spe-
cimens of it were shown to me as growing on the rock of
Gibraltar.

ZYGOPHYLLE^, R. Br,

Tribulus terrestris, L.

Vulgo Ahrogos, Sp. Caltrops, E.

Hab. Mediterranean regions of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs. — This plant is found in great abundance on the neutral-
ground, and is easily known by its fruit, which is composed of
jfive nuts, united in a subglobular whorl, armed with prickles,
resembling the machine called caltrops, formerly in use to ob-
struct an enemy's cavalry.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 91

RUTACE.^, Juss.

Ruta angiistifolia, Pers.

Var. &. hracteosa, R. bracteosa, De C. Varietas
bracteis latioribus e maris vicinio solum orta.
Boiss.
Hab. South of France, Italy, Sicily. Barbary.
Obs. — Indigenous, and also cultivated.

RHAMNE.E, R, Br,

Rhamnus alaternus, L,
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — Dr. Lemann has found two varieties of this species in Gib-
raltar, one of which approaches the character of R. integrifolia,
DeC.

Rhamnus Lycioides, L,

Hab. Spain, Portugal. North of Africa.

Obs. — Rare, communicated. The Lycium Europeura, which is
used for fences, owing to its prickly stems, is often mistaken for
this plant.

Rhamnus Oleoides, L.

Hab. South of Spain, Sardinia, Greece. Barbary.

Obs. — This species is generally found growing from the fissures of
high rocks. Several specimens of it grow in the undermined
sides of Mr. Costello's garden, on Windmill-road.

TEREBINTHACE^, Juss.

Pistacia Terebinthus, L, /4ic^uzc4^*-^^^*^ ^/Lcl -
Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
Canary Isles.

Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

92 SYNOPSIS OF

Pistacia lentiscus, L.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
Canary Isles.

Schinus moUe, L.

Vulgo, Arhol de pimenta, Sp. Pepper-tree,

Hab. America.

Obs. — Introduced. Cultivated extensively in Spain, Italy, and
Sardinia. It forms perhaps tbe most ornamental tree cultivated
in Gibraltar. Its gi'aceful foliage, and delicate drooping clus-
ters of flowers, succeeded by clusters of red berries, form pic-
turesque objects in almost every garden in the south-district.
The term molle is not used in reference to any quality of the
plant, but is a slight modification of the Peruvian word
mulli. The berry tastes like black pepper, — hence sometimes
called the pepper-tree.

LEGUMINOS^, Juss.
Spartium junceum, L. /i I^^tt^p^

Hab. South of Europe, Sicily. North of Africa. Azores.
Obs. — This species appears to have been introduced into Gibraltar.

Spailium monospennum, L.
Hetama monosperma, Boiss.

Hab. South of Europe, Sicily. North of Africa. Arabia
Petraea. Canary Isles.

Obs. — This beautiful single-seeded broom is a graceful plant,
cultivated in gardens and in the Alameda. It does not appear
to be indigenous to the rock; it is common in the neighbourhood
of Tangier.

Spai'tiiun spinosum, L.
Hab. South of Europe.

Obs. — Found on the higher parts of the rock.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 93

Sarothamnus boeticus, Boiss.

Sarothamnus Boeticus, Webb, Iter Hisp.

Hab. South of Spain. Barbary.

Obs. — This species, known also as the Cytisus arboreus of Salzm.
is easily distinguished by its trifoliate petiolated obovate-obtuse
glabrous leaves. " Cette espece," says Boissier, " se distingue
bien de toutes les precedentes par la forme de sa carene, qui
n'est plus recourbee et retrecie a rextremite, mais obovee, arron-
die et fort obtuse, de meme que dans les especes suivantes."

Genista candicans, L,
Cytisus candicans, L,
Genista Canariensis, Bory, non L.

Hab. South of France, maritime provinces of Spain,
Portugal, south of Italy, Sicily, Greece. Madeira.
Canary Isles.

Genista linifolia, L,

Spartium linifolium, Desf.
Cytisus linifolius. Lam.
Hab. South of France, Spain, Greece. North of Africa.
Canary Isles.

Obs. — This species is the most common one on the rock, espe-
cially above the high road to Europa.

Genista Gibraltarica, De C
Hab. South of Spain. Morocco.

Obs. — Found in great abundance on Queen of Spain's Chair, and
in the neighbourhood of St. Roque ; — I have not met with
it on the rock of Gibraltar. To enable others to observe
it, I shall quote here Boissier's remarks on this elegant species.
" Petite plaute de 1 a 2 pieds de haut, a epines rameuses,
courtes, nombreuses et un peu courbees ; a feuilles lineaires, et
le plus souvent changees aussi en epines. Elle est voisine du
G. Iricuspidata, Desf., qui est beaucoup plus grand dans toutes
ses parties, qui a des epines droites, trois fois plus longues et

94 SYNOPSIS OF

plus fortes, des feuilles ovales ou lanceolees, point epineuses et
pubescentes, ainsi que les rameaux. Ses fleurs se verdissent
par la desiccation, ce qui n'arrive pas au G. Gibraltarica." —
BoissicTf p. 143. .

Ononis viscosa, L,

Var. a. O. fcetida, Schousb. Calycis dentes

corolla breviores setacei, legumen calyce

longius.

Hab. South of Europe. Morocco.

Obs. — A near neighbour of the O. natrix. Found on the declivi-
ties of the rock, above the Alameda.

Ononis Gibraltaiica, Boiss.

Hab. Gibraltar and its neighbourhood.

Obs. — This species is found on the eastern declivities of the rock.
" Cette espece," observes Boissier, " est bien distincte de toutes
les formes de I'O. natrix, par la nature des polls extremement
courts et visqueux qui la couvrent, la longueur et I'etroitesse de
ses folioles, la forme de son calice et de son etendard, la
longueur de ses legumes.'* (See Appendix).

Ononis pubescens, L. Mont.

Hab. Mediterranean region, Portugal. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs. — Found on the road to St. Michael's cave.

Ononis mitissima, L.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of
Africa.

Ononis variegata, L.

0. aphylla. Lam. Diet.

Hab. Southern Mediterranean region, Spain, Corsica,
Sardinia, Sicily, South of Italy, Greece. Barbary.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 96

Obs. — This small species is found on the neutral-ground, and
along the sandy plain at the foot of Queen of Spain's Chair.
It is rarely met with on the rock.

Ononis serrata, Forsk,

O. diffusa, Ten. Neap.

Hab. Southern Mediterranean region, Spain, Sardinia,
South of Italy, Sicily, Greece. North Africa. Asia
Minor.

Ononis reclinata, L.
Hab. Britain, South of France, Spain, Portugal, Balea-
ric Isles, Italy, Sicily.

Obs. — Flowers occasionally a mixture of purple and white.
Found on the neutral-ground.

Ononis ramosissima, Auct, non Desf,

O, natrix, var. ^. media. Caulibus abbreviatis

ascendentibus, foliolis angustioribus canalicu-

lato recurvatis, floribus minoribus in spicas

laxiores dispositis, pedunculis folia superantibus.

Hab. South of Spain, Sicily, Barbary.

Obs. — The sandy sides of the rock, near Catalan-bay, are covered
with this species ; and it is also met with on the neutral-ground.

Cercis siliquastrum, L.

Vulg. Judas-tree.

Hab. South of Europe.

Obs. — This tree is cultivated in gardens. Its crowded bright
purple blossoms form a pleasing contrast with the green of
early summer.

Anthyllis vulneraria, L.
Var. /3. ruhrijiora.
Hab. Britain, Europe. North Africa. Asia Minor.

96 SYNOPSIS OF

Anthyllis tetraphylla, L.

Hab. South of Europe. Morocco. Asia Minor.

Obs. — M. Boissier has placed this plant under the new genus,
Physantliyllis. It grows in great abundance near the governor's
cottage at Europa.

Medicago coronata. Lam,
Hab. South of France, Spain. Egypt.

Medicago marina, L.

Hab. Spain, Portugal. Asia Minor. Barbary. Egypt.

Obs. — Not very common on the neutral-gvound, more frequently
seen on the sandy desert beyond the Spanish lines. It is also
found on the sandy bank behind Catalan-bay, on the road to
Sandy-bay.

Medicago sativa, L.
Hab. Britain, Spain, South of France, &c.
Obs. — I believe cultivated in Gibraltar.

Medicago terebeUnm, Willd.
Hab. South of Europe.

Medicago uncinata, Willd,
Hab. South of Europe.

Medicago nigra, Willd.
Hab. South of France.

Obs. — This last species bears an affinity to the M. uncniata.

Medicago orbicularis, L,
Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Barbary.

Obs. — I have not the least doubt that several other species are
found in Gibraltar ; and, if I am not mistaken, I have seen
the Medicago tribuloides of Desf., and the Medicago turbinata
grow likewise here.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 97

Melilotus sulcata, Desf,

Hab. Europe, Sicily. North of Africa.

Obs.— From its strong resemblance to M. officinalis it was often
mistaken for it. I found in a waste place, near the Inundation,
a few specimens with light blue flowers, and others have found
a white variety.

Trifolium pratense, L, /lu^^^^l*^ ilu^fwC
Hab. Britain, Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — This is a variety of the T.- pratense found in Scotland.

Trifolium repens, L.
Hab. Britain, Europe. North of Africa.

Trifolium stellatum, L,

Hab. In many parts of Europe. Asia Minor. North
of Africa.

Trifolium fragiferum, L.
Hab. Britain, Europe, Asia Minor.

Trifolium tomentosum, L.
Hab. South of Europe. Barbary. Egypt.

Trifolium procumbens, L,
Hab. Britain, Europe. Asia Minor. Barbary.
Obs. — Evidently a variety of the species found in Scotland.

Trifolium angustifolium, h. - i^^^v'U■<^'i-*^-<^'C . u^'^i^i
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Trifolium subterraneum, L.

Hab. Britain, Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann. The neutral-ground and
the littoral flats on the rock are the chief localities of the Tre-
foil, Lotus, &c.

H

98 SYNOPSIS OF

Lotus corniculatus, L. /^ C^^ ^^ij^itc^^

Var. hirsuta.

Hab. Britain, Europe. Asia Minor. Barbary.

Obs. — There is another variety on the rock, which I am inclined
to helieve is the L. major of Scop., or L. corniculatus, var. ^.
major, De C. Prod.

Lotus edulis, L,

Hab. South of Europe, Sicily. Cyprus. North of
Africa.

Lotus parviflorus, Desf.

Hab. South of Europe, Sicily. Barbary.

Lotus omithopodioides, L.

Hab. South of Europe, Sicily, Cyprus. North of
Africa.

Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Tetragonolobus purpureus, Mcenck.

Lotus tetragonolobus, L.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe, Sicily, Cyprus.
Barbary.

Obs.— This beautiful species of Lotus is seen on Windmill-hill,
and on waste places near the Inundation.

Psoralea bituminosa, L,

Hab. South of Europe. North Africa. Sicily. Arabia
Petraea.

Obs.— A veiy common plant in Gibraltar and its neighbourhood.
It is found even on the highest parts of the rock : those on the
lower part are much larger.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 99

Phaca baetica, L,

Vulg. Garhuncillos, Sp.
Erophaca bcetica, Boiss.

Hab. South of Europe, Cyprus. Asia Minor. North
of Africa.

Obs. — The Cicer arietinum (vulg. Garbanzos) is also cultivated.

Astragalus bseticus, L.

Hab. Portugal, Spain, South of France, Sicily, Greece.
Barbary. Egypt.

Astragalus depressus, L, /"CCiyL

Hab. South of Europe, Pyrenees, Sierra Neveda.
Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Scorpiurus sulcata, -L.

Hab. Mediterranean coasts of Europe, Portugal, South
of Spain. North of Africa.

Scorpiurus subvillosa, L.

Hab. South of Europe.

Obs. — I have a doubt whether this may not be merely a form of
the S. sulcata; however Boissier says, each has characters
sufficiently distinct. — " Les legumes (de S. subvillosa) sont des
leur jeunesses si fortement et irregulierement contoumees et
garnis d'aiguillons si rapproches, qu'ils forment une masse con-
fuse dans laquelle il est impossible de distinguer les torres.
Dans le sulcata au contraire, les legumes sont enroules a peu
pres sur un seul plan, et Ton en suit facilement les circon volu-
tions, de meme qu'on aper^oit le point d'attache des aiguillons
qui sont moins nombreux."

Scoi*piurus vermiculata, L

Hab. South Mediterranean region, Greece, Italy. North
of Africa.
Obs. — Rare on the rock ; abundant on the Spanish race-course.

h2

100 SYNOPSIS OF

Omithopus compressus, L.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Hippocrepis multisiliquosa; L,

Hab. South of Europe. Cyprus. Egypt. North of
Africa.

Obs.— I have met also with another form, which is perhaps a
variety, or the H. ciliata of Willd. A friend has shown me a
specimen of the H. comosa, but he was not sure of having ga-
thered it in Gibraltar. It is found near St. Koque.

Hedysarum coronarium, L,

Hab. South of Spain, and other southern parts of the
Mediterranean region. North of Africa.

Obs. — Very rare in Gibraltar; abundant in the cultivated fields
on the road to St. Koque. The H. fontanesii is also found in
the neighbourhood of St. Roque and Gaucin.

Vicia atropurpurea, Desf. i^^ ^h.

V, henghalensis, L.

V, perennis, De C.

Hab. Southern Mediterranean region, Sicily. North of
Africa. Azores.

Vicia gracilis, Boiss.

Ervum gracile, De C.

Hab. Portugal, Spain, South of France, Italy, Greece.

Vicia sativa, L,

Hab. Britain, Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — The Vicia faba and Phaseolus vulgaris are cultivated in
the south-district. The Vicia vestita (Boiss.) is also said to

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 101

have been observed in Gibraltar ; but its characters being so
distinct from those of the other species, there could have been
no difficulty in making it out. {See Appendix).

Lathyrus Aphaca, L. /t^*- ^e^^
Hab. Britain, Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Lathyrus tingitanus, L,

South of Spain, Sardinia. North of Africa.

Lathyrus sativus, L.
Hab. Europe. North Africa.

Lathyrus clymenum, L.

Lathyrus tenuifolius, Desf. Atl.
Hab. South of Spain, Greece. North of Africa.

Erythrina corallodendron, Willd,

Hab. West Indies.

Obs. — Cultivated. Fine specimens of the coral-tree are seen in
the cemetery at the sand-pit.

Dolichos pui-pureus, L.

Hab. East Indies.

Obs. — Extensively cultivated throughout Spain. The seeds were,
I believe, originally sent to England from Gibraltar, and it was
supposed at one time to be a native of Gibraltar. It is never
seen there but in or near cultivated grounds.

Acacia famesiana, Willd.

Mimosa famesiana, L.

Vulg. Carumhuco, Sp.

Hab. America.

Obs. — Cultivated. Several other kinds of Acacia arc also culti-
vated in Gibraltar.

102 SYNOPSIS OF

Ceratoiiia siliqua, L,

Vulg. Al^arabo, Sp. Locust or caiob-tree.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Obs. — This is erroneously considered to be the " locust-tree" of
Scripture. The pod contains a sweet fecula, and it is eaten in
Spain. " Ignorance of eastern manners and natural history,"
observes Professor Martin, "induced some persons to fancy that
the locusts on which John the Baptist fed were the tender shoots
of plants ; and the wild honey was the pulp of the pod of the
carob-tree, — whence it had the name of St. John's bread." It
would have been more correct to suppose that«St. John ate
locustSy as the natives of some parts of the East do even in the
present day. The pods of this tree formed the principal food
of the British cavalry horses during the war of 1811 and 1812.
(See Loudon's Encyclopmlia of Plants).

ROSACEtE, Juss,

Rubus fruticosus, L.
Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Fragaria vesca, L. /c^-^^^ j^^^^^d^/^^
Hab. Europe. Asia media.

Obs. — Rarely cultivated in Gibraltar.

Poterium mauritanicum, Boiss.

Hab. South of Spain. North of Africa.

Obs. — Since I have consulted Boissier, it appears to me that the
species in Gibraltar corresponds with the characters of his new
species ; it is, however, still considered by others in Gibraltar to
be the P. polygonum of WillcL, which is a smaller plant. —
Boiss. (See Appendix).

Rosa canina, L. C/l^.^^^'-''<^^ Lv^^-^- E^^<u>

Hab. Europe. Asia Minor.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 103

Obs. — Rare in Gibraltar; it seems to have been introduced where
it is now found ; but as it is met with on the neighbouring hills,
1 suspect the R. canina was at one time found on the higher
parts of the rock. The R. sempervirens is also seen in a few
gardens.

Crataegus maroccana, Pers, Wehh, 'Mc^h^^

Hab. Morocco.

Obs. — Boissier is inclined to believe this species is the same as
the C. maura, L. ; at all events it has a strong resemblance to
it. This plant is found in great abundance on the rock. Other
forms of thorn are also cultivated.

Eriobotrya japonica, Lindl.

Vulg. Loquat.

Hab. Japan, China.

Obs. — Cultivated in a few gardens. The fruit arrives at per-
fection in this climate.

Amygdalus communis, L, ^^Ci^t^.^^n^-t^^ (tc^
Hab. South of Europe, Levant.

Obs. — Cultivated in gardens. The peach-tree is also cultivated,
but the fruit is very indifferent.

Pjrrus communis, L. 6ccc^i^LXJt^ *^X^ -

Hab. Europe.

Obs. — Cultivated, but not extensively.

Prunus armeniaca, L. ^^Zp^i/t'C^cy^

Hab. Levant.

Obs. — Almost every garden has one or two specimens of this tree.
Its fruit is known in the market by the name of " kill-johns,"
from its supposed deleterious effects upon British soldiers; how-
ever, my experience there does not confirm the opinion formed
by the natives of the rock.

104 SYNOPSIS OF

GRANATEiE, Don,

Punica gi'anatum, L,

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa. Asia Minor.

Obs. — The plant arrives at great perfection ; but it is not exten-
sively cultivated in Gibraltar, as the market is abundantly sup-
plied from its immediate neighbourhood.

LYTHRARIE^, Juss.

/
Lytlu'um hyssopifolium, Desf. ci^^.r^^j c^ tL-fc

Lythrum Jiexnosum, Lag.
Hab.

Obs. — The L. hyssopifolium of Lam. is a very different plant ;
its llowers are larger and distinctly pedunculated ; however
that plant is also said to grow in Gibraltar; {Spix and
Von Martins). I have also found a few specimens of the L.
salicaria, Z., near St. Roque, behind the Almandral ; but it is
not a plant frequently seen in this part of Andalusia; whereas
the L. flexuosum is seen almost on every meadow and road-side.

TAMARISCINE^, Desf.

Tamarix gallica, L.

Hab. France, Germany, Spain. Barbary,
Oos. — Cultivated in gardens and in the Alameda.

CUCURBITACEiE, Jms.

Bryonia dioica. Jacq. oL^ Uaji^^^^C /^^^^^z^
Vulg. Nueza hlanca.
Hab. Europe, Britain.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 105

Momordica elaterium, L.

Echhalion momordica, Rich.

Vulg. Cohombrillo amargo, seu Pan de Porco.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of
Africa.

Obs. — The squirting cucumber grows in great abundance on
Europa-flat, and forms a peculiar feature in the vegetation of
that part of the rock ; one can scarcely walk there when the
fruit is matured, without provoking a few of the pepos to squirt
out their contents, even up to the face, they are so sensitive.
Cucumbers and melons of all descriptions are extensively culti-
vated in Gibraltar. The market abounds with them ; they are
the chief articles of consumption among the poorer classes.

PARONYCHIE.E, St. HiL

Corrigiola littoralis, L,
Hab. Britain, France, Germany, Spain. Barbary.

Paronychia hispanica, Cliis. ^^:^.^..^5^^^<.^-y ^^^*^^
Paronychia argentea, Lam.
Illecehrum paronychia, L.

Vulg. Yerha de la sangre, seu Sanguinaria menor.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa. Malta.
Obs. — A very common plant all over the rock.

Polycai-pon tetraphyllum, L,

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe, Germany, Bri-
tain. Caucasus. Canaries. North of Africa.

Obs. — Abundant on the lower parts of the rock.

CRASSULACE^, De C.
Umbilicus pendulinus, De C.

106 SYNOPSIS OF

Cotyledon umbilicus, var. «. L.

Vulg. Somhrerillos.

Hab. Europe, Britain.

Obs. — Found in fissures of rocks and caves, as also on old walls
and roofs of houses.

y^ Sedum album, L, Url^d ^ l&^hji^c^^fU
Hab. Europe, Britain.

Sedum altissimum. Pair,

Hab. South of France, Spain, Greece, Italy.

Obs.— A Sedum resembling the S. arenarium is also said to grow
on the rock, which I have not seen.

Sempervivum arboreum, Desf.
Hab. Portugal. Crete. North of Africa.

Obs. — A good plate of this plant is given in Sihih. Fl. Gr. This
elegant plant grows in great abundance on the elevated sides
of the rock, near the naval hospital, and on the road to Europa-
point, near Clapham quarters. Its yellow blossoms, supported
upon long foot-stalks, give a peculiar character to the early
vegetation of the south part of the rock.

FICOIDE^. Juss,

4 Mesembryanthemum Aitoui, Jacq.
Hab. Cape of Good Hope.

Obs. — Extensively cultivated in Gibraltar, and forms an elegant
ornament to the walls of the hanging-gardens of Calpe. I
should not be surprised if this plant were to extend itself,
like some others, to higher parts of the rock. I found a small
specimen of it in a fissure above St. George's Hall ; I have
therefore introduced this plant in this catalogue, contrary to
the arrangement of excluding cultivated ornamental flowering
plants, with which every garden abounds. I have heard it
stated, that the Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum, L., is to be
found in Gibraltar.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 107

CACTEiE. De C.

Opuntia vulgaris, Mill,
Cactus opuntia,
Vulg. Higuera chumba, Sp. Prickly pear, Eng.

Hab. Tropical America.

Obs. — Introduced, but now growing so abundantly as almost to
indicate its being indigenous to Gibraltar and other parts of
Spain. The fruit is sold in the market, and is considered a
great delicacy by the natives. This plant forms excellent barri-
cades and fences. Several kinds of Cacti are cultivated.

SAXIFRAGES, Vent,

Saxifraga globulifera, Desf,

Var. gihraltarica, Ser. in De C. Prod. Inten-

sius viridior. Caules magis elongati. Folia

pedunculique pilis longioribus copiosioribus

albis hirsuta. Panicula ramosior magis diva-

ricata. Gemmae axillaies magis elongatae.

Boiss,

Hab. Gibraltar.

Obs. — On the northern side of the rock, near the Rock-gun.
Flowers in April and May.

UMBELLIFERS, Jms.

Eryngium ilicifolium. Lam.
Hab. South of Spain. Barbary.

Obs. — Rare on the neutral-ground ; it is a much larger plant than
the one represented by Desf. in his Fl. And.

108 SYNOPSIS OF

Apium graveolens, L. y

Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa. North America.

Anethum foeniculum, L.
Fceniculum, vulg. Gcesta,
Hab. Europe, Britain, North of Africa.

Foeniculum piperitum, Ten.
Hab. Sardinia, South of Spain, Italy.

Obs. — Very frequently met with on the eastern side of the rock.

Bupleurum Gibraltaricum, Lam.

B. coriaceum, L*Her.

B. verticale, Ortega.

Vulg. ChuciUega.

Hab. Spain, Portugal. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Obs. — It is not a common plant in Gibraltar ; hence Boissier
thinks B. verticale, the name given by Ortega, is more appro-
priate. A few specimens are seen near the landslip, on the
road to Europa. I have also seen it above St. George's Hall,
growing out of the sides of the rock.

(Enanthe pimpinelloides, L.
Hab. Britain, South of Europe. Asia Minor.

Slum sicitlum, L.

Brignolia pastinaccefolia, Bert.
Kundmannia sicula, De C.
Ligusticum halearicum, L.
Campderia sicula, Lag.
Hab. Spain, Balearic Isles, Greece, South of Italy.
North of Africa.

Crithmum maritimum, Toiirn. ^Ca^^w^/^^^
Viilg. Per eg HI de la mar.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 109

Hab. Britain, West of Europe. North of Africa. Asia
Minor. Canaries.

Obs.— Found growing generally on the eastern sides of the rock ;
abundant at Catalan-bay.

Ferrula communis, De C,
F, nodiflora, L.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.
Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Anethum segetum, L.
Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor.

Thapsia villosa, L.

Hab. Spain, Portugal, France, Greece. North of Africa.
Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Orlaya maritima, Koch.

Caucalis maritima, Gorv.

Hab. South of France, Portugal, Spain, Italy. North
of Africa.

Obs. — Found on the neutral-ground, and on the eastern declivi-
ties of the rock.

Orlaya platycarpos, Koch.
Caucalis platycarpos, L.
Vulg. Cachorro.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Daucus Carota, L. /i^^'i i^^^^s^i^'^L-

Vulg. Zanahoria.
Hab. Europe, Britain. America.

Daucus gingidium, L,
Z>. hispanicus, De C.

110 SYNOPSIS OF

Z>. hispidus, Desf.
Hab. Portugal, South of Spain. North of Afiica.

Obs. — The D. Carota (vulg. zanahoria) is cultivated extensively in
Gibraltar.

Caucalis leptophylla, L,
C, humilis, Jacq.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor, Persia. North
of Africa.
Obs. — Found in the middle parts of the rock.

Torilis nodosa, Gaertn,

Caucalis nodosa, Huds.

Caucalis nodijlora, Lam.

Tor dy Hum nodosum, L.

Hab. Britain, South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of
Africa.

Scandix pecten-veneris, L. j'u^/i^cuJ A<^^

Hab. Europe, Britain. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
Canary Isles.
Obs. — Communicated by a friend.

Cachiys Pterochlaena, De C
C sicula, L,

Hab. South of Spain, Portugal. North of Africa.

Obs. — Abundant on the neutral -ground, near the Spanish-lines,
and covers a large space of the sandy soil beyond it too. This
is perhaps the Cachrys libanotis enumerated by Von Martins, in
the second vol. of his " Travels in Brazil." The Cachrys liban-
otis of Gon. I gathered near Malaga.

Conium maculatum, L. ^^t^x-.^^i-u^^^cfu^ 4^<^<^ ^^^C
Hab. Britain, Europe. Asia Media. Siberia.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. Ill

Obs. — I only saw two or three specimens of this plant in the burial-
ground, perhaps sown by accident.

Smyrnium olusatrum, L,
Hab. Britain, Europe. North of Africa.

ARALIACE^, Juss.

Hedera Helix, L, ^^Iz*^^.^.,.*-^^ : '''S^
Vulg. Yedra, Sp., Ivy, Eng.
Hab. Britain, Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — The sides of the rock on the road to Europa are covered
with it. Glenrocky is much increased in beauty by this orna-
mental vine.

CAPRIFOLIACE^, Juss.

Sambucus nigra, L.
Vulg. Sauco, Sp.
Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa.

Lonicera Periclymenum, L.
Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa.

Obs. — " The Spanish plant is always pubescent/' observes Mr.
Webb ; it may have been introduced into Gibraltar. The
next species is certainly wild on the rock.

Lonicera Caprifolium, Desf,
L, balearica, De C.
L, implexa. Ait.

Hab. France, Spain, Balearic Isles, Italy. North of
Africa.

Obs.— Most abundant above the Alameda ; also met with on the
higher parts of the rock.

112 SYNOPSIS OF

RUBIACE^, Juss.

Sherardia arvensis, L. -r^i^cd Cc-ca.^cax^

Hab. Britain, Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Crucianella maritima, L, l^-^'j^,0 -i^i^^tn^^

Rubia marina, Clus. "^^

Hab. Mediterranean shores of Europe. North Africa.
Egypt. Asia Minor.

Rubia lucida, L.

R, sylvestris, Brot.

R, splendens, L. et Hoffm.

Hab. Spain, Portugal, South of France, Italy. Crete.

Obs. — This plant, so like the R. peregrina,is very common in Gib-
raltar, generally found in hedges, and on the sides of the upper
road.

Galium saccharatum, All. ^^^UC^ ^ S^^^uT
Hab. Britain, France, Germany, Mediterranean regions.

Galium tricome, With,
Hab. Europe, Britain.

Obs. — Two other species, G. aparine and G. rubioides, are said
to be found in Gibraltar. I have met with the G. glomeratum,
De&f., on the Spanish race-course.

VALERIANE^, Be C,

Valerianella coronata, De C.
V. discoidea, Dufr.

Hab. Mediterranean regions of Europe, South of France,
Italy, Spain, Greece.
Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 113

Fedia comucopiae. De C.
Valeriana cornucopia, L.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe, Levant. North
of Africa.
Obs. — A very common plant of Gibraltar.

Centranthus Calcitrapa, Dufr,
Valeriana Calcitrapa, L.

Hab. Britain, Mediterranean region of Europe. North
of Africa.

Valeriana tuberosa, L.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. Caucasus. Cy-
prus.

Valeriana rubra, L. Z^^ l/^^^L<^€k^t^ ' '
V. angustifolia, Cav.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — This species is sometimes met with on old walls, and I have
also found it in fissures on the rock, but always near some gar-
den, and it had all the appearance of being accidentally sown.
It is cultivated in every garden.

DIPSACE.E. Vaill

Scabiosa stellata, L. Jix^-^n^^

Scabiosa hispanica major, Cluss.

Hab. Spain, Portugal, South of France. North of
Africa.

Obs. — Found on the higher parts of the rock ; easily distinguished
by its transparent stariy calyx. The petals (which are blue)
drop off very early, leaving the transparent starry calyces.

Scabiosa maritima, L.

114 SYNOPSIS OF

Var. j3. grandijlora, Sc. grandiftora, Scop.
Var. 7. atropurpurea. Sc. atropurpurea, L.

Hab. Mediterranean shores of Europe. Var. y. in south
of Spain, Sicily.

Obs. — The var. 3. is very common in Gibraltar. The purple
variety is rare in Gibraltar.

Scabiosa urceolata, Desf.

Var. ^. bipinnatisecta, Bois. Major; caulis 2 — 4
pedalis ramosus breviter pubescens ; folia bipin-
natisecta laciniis lanceolato-cuneatis obtusius-
culis ad nervos marginesque hirsutis scabridis ;
capitula duplo major longissime pedunculata ;
involucri adpresse hirti foliola usque ad tertiam
partem concreta corollas ochroleucas radiantes
subaequantia ; palese foliacese. — Boiss,
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — Found on the neutral-ground, near the Spanish lines.

COMPOSITiE, VailL

Bellis annua, L,

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa. Canary Isles.

Bellis sylvestris, Cyr,

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North-west of Africa.

Obs. — Found by Mr. TumbuU (Auditor-general), on the higher
parts of the rock.

Bellis perennis, L. Liiyz^i^ut^^^^n;,'^ ^cf^^<^ML^
Hab. Europe, Britain.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 115

Phagnaloii saxatilis, Cass.
Conyza saxatilis, L.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
Canary Isles.

Inula viscosa, Ait, Var. /3. laxiflora, Boiss,

Erigeron viscosum, L.

Solidago viscosa, Lam.

Vulgo, Altohaca.

Hab. South of Spain, France, Italy. Palestine. North
of Africa. Canary Isles.

Obs. — The whole plant is aromatic ; flowers early in autumn, or
rather late in summer (September and October). Grows in
great abundance all over the rock, above the Alameda ; and is
also seen on old walls on the road to the naval hospital, and in
hedges near Mr. Ramsbottom's garden.

Asteriscus maritimus, Mcench.
Buphthalmum maritimum, L.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs. — This plant is extremely variable in size ; it is generally
seen on the sides of rocks and on old walls.

PaUenis spinosa, Cass,

Buphthalmum spinosum, L.

B. aureum, Salzm.

Hab. Same as the last species. Canary Isles.

Obs. — Also a very common plant ; found generally growing with
the Andryala integrifolia, L.

Anthemis ai'vensis, L,

Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa. Asia Minor.

I 2

Il6 SYNOPSIS OF

Anthemis maritima, Desf,
Hab. Mediterranean shores.

Perederaea fuscata, Webb,
Maruta fuscata, De C.
Anthemis fuscata, Brot.

Hab. South-western Mediterranean region, and north-
western parts of Africa.

Obs. — Found generally on moist parts of the neutral-ground, and
near the inundalion. Abundant on the Spanish race-course.

Anacyclus radiatus, Lois,

Var. ^. purpurascens, De C.

Hab. South of France, Portugal, Spain. North of
Africa.

Obs. — Both varieties are found in Gibraltar ; the purple variety
not quite so common.

Cladanthus prolifems, De C,
Anthemis arabica, L.

Hab. South of Spain. North of Africa.
Artemisia pontica, L.

Hab. Europe.

Obs. — This plant is said to grow here, but I have not been able
to identify it.

Chrysanthemum segetum, L, &vtx, ^/cc^^vy p/l^
Pyrethrum segetum, Moench.

Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Afiica.

Crysanthemum coronarium, L.
Vulgo, Flor de muerto,

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. Barbary. Ca-
nary Isles.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 117

Obs. — Both species are found in great abundance near the gar-
dens in the South-district.

Helichrysum rupestre, De C.

H, plus minusve cano-tomentosum, caulibus basi
sufFruticosis erectis, foliis linearibus elongatis,
capitulis ovato-hemisphsericis in corymbum
laxiusculum dispositis, involucri squamis latis
acutis, infimis superiores subaequantibus. —
Boiss.

Gnaphalium rupestre, Raf.

Gn. stcechas, var. /3. inodorum, Desf.

Hab. South of Spain. Balearic Isles. Sicily. North
of Africa.

Obs. — Found in the fissures of the higher parts of the rock,
near the Mediten-anean-stair and St. George's-hall.

Helichiysum staechas, De C,

Gnaphalium stcechas, L.

Hab. Europe, middle and south. North of Africa.

Obs. — ^The leaves of this species have an aromatic odour. Evidently
introduced into Gibraltar, called by the natives Semperviva
amarilla. It is a common plant between Gibraltar and
Estepona.

Filago germanica, L.

Hab. Europe, Britain. Asia Minor, Persia. Africa.
Obs. — Rare in Gibraltar.

Filago gallica, L.

Hab. Europe, middle and south, Britain. North of
Africa. Madeira. Canary Isles.

118 SYNOPSIS OF

Senecio gallicus, Vill.
S. squalidus, Willd.

Hab. South of France, Spain, Portugal.

Obs. — This small but elegant species is found near Europa-flat.

Senecio vulgaris, L. j^a.^*<»^u^^w fz,,^v,^./^U^
Vulgo, Yerba cana.

Hab. Britain, Europe. Asia. North of Africa.

Senecio minutus, De C.
Cineraria minuta, Cav.

Hab. South of Spain.

Obs. — This beautiful species is found on the lower parts of Europa-
plain.

Senecio Jacobaea, L, ^Ixz^^*^-'^*-^^ cOm^c^^-wl^
Hab. Europe, Britain.

Obs. — This plant grows to a great height in Gibraltar and the
south of Spain. Found above the high road, near the Alameda.

Calendula incana, Willd.

C, marginata, De C. Prod.
C. tomentosa, Desf.
Hab. South of Spain and Portugal. North-west of
Africa.

Calendula sufEruticosa, Boiss,
C. suffruticosa, Vahl.
C stellata, var. atlantica, Desf.
C. denticulataP (Medical Officer's Report).

Hab. Spain. North of Africa.

Calendula aivensis, L.

Hab. Europe. North of Africa. Canary Isles.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 119

Carlina corymbosa, L.
C. hispanica, Lam.
Vulg. Caheza de polio,

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of
Africa.
Obs — Found on the neutral-ground and Spanish race-course.

Atractylis cancellata. L,

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of
Africa.
Obs. — Found on the middle parts of the rock.

Centaurea puUata, L.
Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs. — This appears to be the form a. acaulis. The plant is nearly
procumbent ; the cauline leaves are not always lyrate. It is a
very common plant in Gibraltar and its neighbourhood.

Centaurea calcitrapa, L, Sucl. c>Ucj ^<^
Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa. Madeira.
Obs. — A very common species in Gibraltar and its neighbourhood.

Centaurea polyacantha, Boiss.
Boiss. tab. c. v., fig. A.
C, tota hirtula, radice incrassata brevi, caiile hu-
mili erecto subsimplici monocephalo, foliis radi-
calibus lyratis lobis dentatis terminali multo
majore dentibus mucronato-spinulosis, caulinis
amplexicaulibus runcinato-pinnatifidis, squamis
in appendicem patulam fasciculato-spinosissi-
mam abeuntibus, spinis per 9 — 13 super pagi-
nam superiorem appendices erinacee dispositis,

120 SYNOPSIS OF

terminali aliis vix longiore, coroUis exteiioiibus
faemineis valde radiantibus. — Boiss.

Hab. Spain, Portugal. Morocco.

Obs. — I found only a few specimens of this species near the Spa-
nish lines, and on the neutral-ground ; but it is abundant
higher up the sands near Campo.

Centaurea sphaerocephala, L.
C. C(espitosa, Vahl.

Hab. Spain, Portugal, Sardinia. Egypt. Barbary.

Obs. — Found on the western side of the neutral-ground, and also
met with on the lower parts of the rock.

Centaurea solstitialis, L.
Hab. Levant. Britain.

Obs..— Communicated as the C. veratrum. I found only a few
specimens in a waste place, and may have been introduced.

Kentrophyllum ai'borescens, Hook,

Carthamus arbor escens, L.

C. hixinus, Lag.

Vulg. Cardo santo, seu cardo lechero.

Hab. Spain.

Obs. — A very common plant in Gibraltar ; and Boissier observes
" Cette belle espece donne une physionomie toute partiouliere
a la region chaude inferieure.'' The plant in Gibraltar is often
seen higher than six feet.

Galactites tomentosa, Mcench.
Centaurea galactites, L.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa. Madeira.

Obs. — Found in great abundance on the middle part of the rock.
The var. |S. integrifolia, " folia integra aut denticulata," is also
to be found in Gibraltar.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 121

Carduus tenuifiorus, Sm.

Hab. Europe, Britain. Asia Minor. Persia. Madeira.

Obs. — The Carduus giganteus, Desf. (Cirsium giganteum, Spr.)]
grows in great abundance near the Almandral, St. Roque.
Some specimens were nearly eight feet high. It is said to^grow
in Gibraltar too, but I never met with it there.

Cirsium lanceolatum, Scop,
Var. ^. hypoleiicum, De C.

Hab. Languedoc, Sicily. Other varieties in Europe,
Britain. Asia. America. (Introduced).

Cynara horrida, Sibth.

Cynara cardunculus, L.

Hab. Portugal, Spain, south of France, Sicily. North of
Africa.
Obs. — More frequently seen near Campo. It is a rare plant in
Gibraltar. The Cynara alba is also found on the Spanish race-
course.

Scolymus hispanicus, L.
Vulg. Car do Maria.
Hab. Europe. North of Africa. Canary Isles.
Obs. — Found in great abundance in Gibraltar.

Scolymus maculatus, L.
Vulg. Tagardina.

Hab. Mediterranean shores of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa. Madeira.
Obs. — Rare in Gibraltar.

Cicliorium Intybus, L. /jU^^^Su^^^rv^
Var. ^. divaricatum, De C. ^

C, divaricatum, Scliousb.
Hab. Europe, Britain. Egypt. Barbary. Madeira.

122 SYNOPSIS OF

Hyoseris microcephala, Cass,
H, scabra, L. non McBnch.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Hedypnois arenaria, De C,

Hyoseris arenaria, Schousb.
Hab. South of Spain. Morocco.

Obs. — Rare on the eastern side of the rock, where Boissier ga-
thered it.

Rhagadiolus stellatus, Tourn,
Lapsana siellata, L.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Thrincia hispida, Roth.

Thr, hirta, Rehb.

Var. a. minor. Pusilla. Folia vix dentata. Scapi
pauci 1 — 3 pollices longi. Capitula magnitu-
dinis eomm T, hivtce. Pedunculi fructiferi
non incrassati. — Boiss,

Th. hirta, Sched.

Var. /9. major. Major, hirsutior, multicaulis.
Folia profiinde sinuato-dentata. Capitula du-
plo majora. Pedicelli fructiferi apice subin-
crassati. — Boiss.

Th. m^untanica, Webb.

Hab. South of Spain, Portugal. North of Africa.
Madeira. Canary Isles.

Obs.— The first variety is found on the lower paits of the rock in
the south-district. The var. /3. major is found on the neutial-

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 123

ground in great abundance, in the neighbourhood of the Ranun-
culus bullatus. I have also gathered the Thr. tuberosa on the
Queen of Spain's Chair.

Helminthia echioides, Gaertn.

Hab. Middle and south of Europe, Britain.

Obs.— Rare in Gibraltar ; found on Scud-hill by my friend, Dr.
Dumbreck. It is found in great abundance on the road to St.
Roque.

Lactuca tenerrima, Pourr.

Var. 0. scabra, Boiss.

Caules ramique pilis rigidis albidis scabridi.

Hab. Spain.

Obs. — A very common plant, found on old walls ; its purplish
syngenesious fiowers close about noon : the plant is nearly pe-
rennial. The variety a. glabra of Boissier may perhaps grow
in Gibraltar ; but the specimens I gathered were all of the
second variety.

Taraxacum dens-leonis, Desf. j^^/U^^Qi^

Var. Icevigatum. Capitula minora, involucri squa-
mae apice subcorniculatae.

T, l(Bvigatum, De C.
Hab. Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — Found on the sides of the rock and on old walls.

Taraxacum obovatum, De C,

Hab. South of France, Spain, Italy.

Obs. — The leaves are not runcinate as in the former species.
Found on the lower parts of the rock.

Barkhausia taraxacifolia, De C,
Crepis taraxacifolia , Thuill.
Crepis interruptus, Sibth.

124 SYNOPSIS OF

Var. h(Bnseleri, Tota planta glabrescens. Folia
obtusa ssepe solum dentata. — Boiss,
Hab. Britaio, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Portugal.

Barkhausia foetida, De C.
Crepis fcetida, L.

Hab. Middle and south of Europe, Britain. North ol
Africa. Canary Isles.

Obs. — This last species is less common in Gibraltar than the for-
mer, and is generally found on old walls.

Picridium vulgare, Desf.
Scorzonera picroides, L.
Sonchus picroides, Lam.
Var. jS. maritimum Majus, bienne aut peremie,

basi sufFruticosum. Folia elongata glausces-

centia. — Boiss.

Hab. South of Europe, Sicily. Canary^ Isles. Asia.
North of Africa.

Obs. — First found by Boissier, on the eastern declivities of the
rock.

Picridium tingitanum, Desf.
Scorzonera tingitana, L.
Pic, orientale, De C.

Hab. Portugal, Spain, Majorca, Sicily, Cyprus. Asia
Minor, Arabia. Egypt, Barbary.

Obs. — Generally found on the neutral-ground, particularly on its
western side.

Sonchus tenerrimus, L.
S, pectinatus, De C.

Hab. Mediterranean regions of Europe. North of
Africa.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 125

Sonchus oleraceus, L. ^^^z.^,^ *<>t,^t- fc^i^ ^^^^tta.
Sonchus ciliatus, Lam. De C. Prod.
Vulg. Cerajas,
Hab. Europe, Britain.

Obs. — Found in nearly every cultivated or manured soil. These
two varieties, found in Gibraltar, are not unlike the varieties
found in Great Britain. The var, asper is less common.

Andryala integrifolia, Desf.

Andryala parviflora^ Lam.

Hab. France, Spain. North of Africa,

Obs. — This plant is found in several forms, all of which Boissier
places under the head of A. parviflora of Lam. The most
common variety in Gibraltar is the var. latifolia; the variety
arenaria is also seen in the sandy soils. I found the variety
angustifolia of De C. in Tangiers. The specimen of Andryala
sinuata of Linn., now in the Linnean Society's collection, re-
sembles the Gibraltar plant, and I observe that Boissier has
made the species sinuata of Linn, his var. y. sinuata of the A.
parviflora, Lam.

CAMPANULACE^., Juss,

Jasione montana, L.

Var. littoralis. Multicaulis, prostrata, plus mi-
nusve hirsuta.

Hab. Europe, Britain. Asia Minor. Barbary.

Campanula mollis, L., var. «.
C. velutina, Desf.

Hab. Mediterranean regions. Morocco.

Obs. — This beautiful species of Campanula grows nearly on every
part of the rock, generally on shady sides ; and is frequently
seen on old walls. Its graceful purple blossoms are out for

126 SYNOPSIS OF

nearly five months of the year. I have occasionally seen
flowers of a pale white colour, from plants growing on the
sides of old ramparts.

Campanula erinoides, L. A-^^ /^eou^-tyu
C. loefflingii, Boiss.

Hab. Portugal, Spain. North of Africa.

Obs. — This is doubtless Boissier's plant. Mr. Webb, who found
it in Gibraltar, however observes that it differs only slightly (by
its outspread calyx, with toothed laciniae) from the C. loefflingii,
so abundant in Portugal. This plant is not very common in
Gibraltar ; it is generally found on the higher parts of the rock ;
it is more frequently met with in the Cork-wood.

JASMINEiE, R. Br,

Jasminum fruticans, L.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs. — This elegant species is chiefly found about the centre of
the rock, above the Alameda, under the shade of the Pinus
sylvestris. The flowers are scarcely odoriferous. The J. gran-
diflorum and other species are cultivated in gardens.

OLEINEiE, Hoffsgg.

Olea Europaea, L.
Var. /3. sylvestris.
Olea oleaster, L. et Hoffin.
Vulg. Aceytuno.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs. — The var. a. is not cultivated in Gibraltar ; there are scarcely
a dozen specimens on the rock. On the road to Grenada the

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 127

olive and vine are seen flourishing in great perfection. The
var. /3. sylvestris is frequently met with on the higher parts of
the rock of Gibraltar. About the origin of the cultivated
olive, Boissier observes that the var. sylvestris " n'est pas le
type sauvage de I'espece, mais une simple forme venue d'olives
cultives et dissemines au hasard. L'olivier n'est spontane
dans aucune partie de I'Europe, et tire son origiue d'orient."
And in another place he observes, that " la variete sauvage
diflfere de la forme cultivee par un tronc plus court, des rameaux
spinescents et un peu quadrangulaires, des feuilles plus etroites
et plus courtes, moins blanchatres a la surface inferieure, des
fruits plus petits."

Phyllirea media, L.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — Some authors have united the genus Phyllirea with Olea,
from its strong resemblance to the wild olive ; the plant in Gi-
braltar has been frequently mistaken for it.

APOCYNE.E, R. Br.

Vinca media, L. et Hoffm. /h i^^-f^'^>f-t>*yfi^

V. acutijiora, Bertol.

Hab. South of France, Portugal, Spain. North of Africa.

Obs. — This beautiful plant adorns the hedges and sides of the
walks in the Alameda ; it is likewise found on the higher parts
of the rock. Boissier observes that this plant was for a long
time confounded with the V. major, L., and that he has not
seen the V. major in any part of Spain. This plant is known
also in Gibraltar as the V. major. The V. rosea is cultivated
in gardens, and grows as luxuriantly as I have seen it in
Ceylon.

Nerimn Oleander, L.
Vulg. Adelfa.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe, &c.

128 SYNOPSIS OF

Obs. — I met with only one specimen in Gibraltar, at all looking
like a native plant of the rock. The Oleander is cultivated in
gardens. It is found in great abundance near Castellar, and in
the vallies near St. Roque,

GENTIANE.E, Juss.

Erythraea Centaurium, Pers, urL^^^v^.^i^i^ d^^^^i^ay
Var. suffruticosa, Griseb.
Ch. Centaurium, Desf.

Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa. Azores.

Obs. — Not frequently met with in Gibraltar, but found in great
abundance on the road to the Cork-wood, where it grows in
company with E. major.

BTGNONIACE.E, K Br,

Catalpa syringifolia, H. K,

Hab. North America.

Obs. — Cultivated in the Alameda gardens.

CONVOLVULACE^, Juss.

Convolvulus althaioides, L.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Afiica. Madeira.

Obs.— A very common plant, found generally on the lower parts
of the rock. The leaves in some specimens found in rich soils
are divided at the base, but not quite so attenuated as in the
plant cultivated in England.

Convolvulus sepium, L.

Calystegia sepium, R. Br.

Hab. Europe, Britain. North America.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 129

Convolvulus arvensis, L. -/t^^^ ^^u^mrU^^'^^^^^-^^^

Hab. Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Convolvulus siculus, la,

Hab. Britain, South of Europe. Sicily. North of
Africa. Canary Isles.

Obs. — Abundant on the glacis below Victoria-battery. Dr. Dum-
breck found it also on the rocks near the naval hospital.

Convolvulus tricolor, h,
Hab. Spain, Portugal. North of Africa.

Obs. — Rare in Gibraltar ; abundant on the road to St. Roque.
The leaves and stem of the few specimens I gathered (near the
naval hospital) were pubescent. The Convolvulus batatas (sweet
potato) is cultivated in the vicinity of Gibraltar. The sweet
potato makes a delicious preserve, and is highly prized by the
Spaniards. Ornamental species of this tribe of plants are
rarely seen in gardens.

BORAGINEtE, Be&v,
Helioti'opium europseum, L.

Hab. Middle and South of Europe. Arabia. North of
Africa. Azores.

Obs,— Found on the road side, and on cultivated soils. Large
beds of it are found on the neutral-ground.

Cerinthe major, L. ^^C^jz.^^ T-zn^ i^Wt^,
C, aspera, Roth., var. purpurascens. Bracteae flo-
resque nigro-pui-purascentes.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of Afrioa.

Echium glomeratum, Poir,
E. pomponium.

Boiss. tab. cxxiv.

K

130 SYNOPSIS OF

E, perenne, foliis radicalibus rosulatis patulis
lanceolatis acutis utrinque velutiiio-hirsutis,
caulinis brevioiibus basi subcordatis infra sub-
carinatis valde nervosis carina et mai-ginibus
longe spinuloso-ciliatis, caule strigosissimo sim-
plicissimo a basi spicis distichis bifidis abbrevia-
tis dense unosto thyrsoideo, bracteis acutis
calycibusque pectinato-ciliatis, corolla pallide
carnea calyce duplo longiori subiiTegulari,
filamentis inaequalibus longe exsertis parte infe-
rioii hirtulis, stylo parte inferiori plumoso apice
bifido. — Boiss.

Hab. South of Spain, in the province of Grenada, &c.
North of Africa. Syria.

Obs. — This magnificent species of Bugloss is rare in Gibraltar ; a
few specimens of it were found by Dr. Leraann, on the eastern
side of the rock ; and I believe Captain Robinson found one.

Echium plantagineum, L,

E. violacexim, Lam., De C, an L.?

Hab. Portugal, Spain, South of France, Italy. North
of Africa.

Obs. — Found above the Alameda and on the neutral-ground with
the following species.

Echium pustulatum, Sibth.

E, tuberculatum, Link.

E. vulgare, var. grandiflorum, Bertol.

Hab. South of France, Portugal, Spain, Italy.

Obs.— This species differs from the last, in some of the hairs
rising from tuberculous points. Upon the whole it appears to be
a large variety of E. vulgare, and some observers only consider
it as such.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 131

Echium creticum, L.
Hab. Crete, Levant.

Obs. — Enumerated by Von Martins.

Lithospermum officinale, L.
Vulg. Mijor del Sol

Hab. Europe, Britain. America.
Lithospeimum purpureo-caeruleum, Willd,
Hab. Europe, Britain.
Obs. — Communicated.

Borago officinalis, L. (^ o*.*^***.*^*^ onrx^^^.^^
Vulg. Borraja.

Hab. Britain, Middle and South of Europe. North of
Africa.
Obs. — A very common plant.

Anchiisa italica, L.
A. paniculata, Ait.
A. officinalis, Desf.

Hab. Middle and South of Europe. Asia Mmor. North
of Africa.

Cynoglossum pictum, Ait,

C, officinale, Desf. Atl. non L.
Vulg. Viniebla.

Hab. Mediten-anean region of Europe. North of
Africa. Madeira.
Obs. — Found in great abundance on tlie middle parts of the rock.

Cynoglossum cheirifolium, L.

Hab. Portugal, Spain, &c. North of Africa.

Obs. — Communicated. Found in Lieut. Flint's collection.

K 2

132 SYNOPSIS OF

Symphytum tuberosum, L.

Hab. Germany, France, Spain, Britain.
Obs. — Communicated.

SOLANEi^, Juss,

Datura Metel, L.

Vulg. Yerba hediendo.
Hab. Asia, Africa. Canaries.

Obs. — Rare in Gibraltar ; perhaps introduced.

Datura arborea, L,

Hab. Peru.

Obs. — Introduced. Splendid specimens of this plant are found
in gardens: the fragrant odour of its beautiful pendulous
white flowers scents the air to a great distance. The D. Stramo-
nium is also cultivated in a few gardens.

Hyoscyamus albus, L,
Vulg. Beleno,

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Solanum nigrum, L, i'^^du4^^^-
Var. 0. villosum.
Hab. Europe, Britain. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Solanum miniatum, Bernh,
Hab. Europe, Britain.

Solanum sodomaeum, Willd.

Hab. Spain, Portugal, Sicily. North of Africa.

Obs. — This species is easily distinguished by its spiny leaves,
large violet flower, and spiny calyx. The berries are large,
globose, and assume a bright yellow colour when ripe. Mr.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 133

J. Hogg, in his very interesting observations on the classical
plants of Sicily {Hooker's Journal of Botany^ vol. i.) says, that
" it is the tempting and deceitful fruit of this plant, which
grows abundantly, according to travellers, on the shores of that
well-known lake of Avemus, the Dead Sea, which, as soon as
bitten, becomes dry dust, like ashes. A small insect frequently
punctures it, and converts the inside into powder, leaving the
skin whole, and of its original colour. From this arose the
story of the delusive apple,

' which grew
Near that bituminous lake where Sodom flamed.'

The S. tuberosum (potato) is cultivated in Gibraltar and its
neighbourhoood ; as also the Capsicum annuum, C. cerasiforme,
and C. grossum (capsicums). The Physalis peruviana and P.
somnifera are found in gardens. The Solanum lycopersicum
(tomato) is also extensively cultivated, and likewise the " egg
apple plant" (BrinyalVs) ; and hedges are formed of the Ly-
cium Europaeum, which has often been mistaken for a
species of Rhamnus.

SCROPHULARINE.E, R. Br,

Verbascum sinuatum, L.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs. — The principal locality for this plant is on the declivities
above the Alameda, where it gives a peculiar feature to the
vegetation of that part of the rock.

Scrophulaiia mellifera, Vahl.

S. samhucifolia, L.

Hab. South-west region of Europe, Portugal. North of
Africa.

Scrophulaiia frutescens, L.

>S^. canina, L.^ var. fmlescens, Boiss. Folia obo-

134 SYNOPSIS OF

vato-cuneata obtusa obtuse crenata, floralia
ovata oblonga integerrima.

Hab. South of Europe, France, Germany. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs. — This species is rare iu Gibraltar; more frequently met
with in the neighbourhood of St. Roque.

Antirrhinum majus, L. 5'U^jLi?U^r .• ^Cf-t^/£^
Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa. Asia Minor.
Obs.— A very common plant.

Antirrhinum Orontium, L.
Hab. Europe, Britain. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Obs. — I have also seen a variety with light purple flowers. Both
species are found in great abundance on the roofs of houses,
and on old walls. The A. viscosum I gathered near the Nut-
walk, Grenada.

Linaria villosa, De C.

Antirrhinum villosum, L.

Hab. Spain.

Obs.— The sides of tlie rocks and old walls are covered with this
elegant plant, and it is generally found in the neighbourhood of
the Convolvulus mollis. The Linaria glauca is said also to
grow in Gibraltar; hut the specimens shown to me as such
were nothing more than the Linaria tristis.

Linaria lanigera, Desf.

Hab. North of Africa. South of Spain. Azores.

Obs. — Some of the specimens I gathered have two or three broad
teeth at the base of the leaves. Abundant near the mess-room
of the South-pavilion.

Linaiia tristis, Mill.
L. marginala, Desf.
Hab. South of Spain. North of Africa.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 135

Obs.— The leaves in the plants of Gibraltar are less scattered than
in the specimens I gathered at Grenada.

Linaria pedunculata, Spreng.

Antirrhinum pedunculatum, L.
Hab. Spain.

Obs. — This beautiful species, a figure of which is given in Boissier's
splendid work, is found in great abundance on the eastern side
of the rock ; generally in the neighbourhood of the following
species.

Linaria amethystina, L.
Var. albijiora, Boiss.

Corolla alba. Palatum luteiim. Labium infe-
rius violaceo-puiictatum. Calcai* pallide vio-
laceum coroUam aequans.

Antirrhinum bipunctatum, Cavan.
Hab. South of Portugal, south of Spain.

Obs. — The whole face of the middle part of the rock above Wind-
mill-hill is covered with this elegant species, and it may also
be seen on the sandy banks near Catalan-bay.

Veronica cymbalaria, Bertol.
V. hedeiifolia, var. &. L.
Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of Africa.

Rhinanthus versicolor, L.
Bartsia versicolor, Auct.

Hab. Spain, Italy, Portugal. North of Africa. Asia
Minor.

Rhinanthus Alectorolophus, Poll.
Bartsia viscosa, L.
Hab. Eiu'ope.

136 SYNOPSIS OF

Obs. — A species of Euphrasia is said to grow in Gibraltar, but I
have not found it. Von Martins also enumerates the Antirrhi-
num bellidifolium as a plant of Gibraltar.

OROBANCHEiE, Juss,

Orobanche foetida, Desf.
Hab. South of Spain. North of Africa.

Orobanche minor, Suit, it-/^*^ lu/rh^ x^yi^
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Orobanche ramosa, L.
Hab. Britain, Europe. North of Africa.

Orobanche caerulea, YilL

Hab. Europe, Britain.

Obs.— Another species of Orobanche is in Dr. Lemaun's coUectioUj
which has not yet been identified.

LABIATiE, Juss.

Lavandula staechas, L.
Vulg. Canteuso.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa. Canary
Isles.
Obs. — Eare in Gibraltar ; abundant on the neighbouring hills.

Lavandula dentata, L.

Hab. Spain. Balearic Isles. North of Africa. Ma-
deira.

Lavandula multifida, L.
Vulg. Alhucemilla.

Hab. South of Portugal, Spain, and Italy. North of
Africa.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 137

Mentha rotundifolia, L,
Vulg. Maestranzo.

Hab. Britain, Middle and south of Europe. North of
Africa. Madeira.

Mentha Pulegium, L.

Var. /3. tomentella, Boiss. ; vel var. hirsuta, Ben-
tham. Tota praecipue caules et capitula den-
sius tomentosa.

M, Gibraltarica, Willd.

Hab. South of Europe, Denmark. North of Africa.
Canary Isles.

Obs. — Found in moist places on the neutral-ground ; large plots
of it are seen opposite the vegetable-garden, on the left of the
road to the old north-front guard-room.

Salvia officinalis, L. ^^i-
Hab. South of Europe. Barbary.

Salvia bicolor, Lam,
Hab. Spain. North of Africa.

Obs.— Communicated. The S. viridis is also said to grow in
Gibraltar.

Rosmarinus officinalis, L.
Vulg. Romero,
Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.

North of Africa.

Thymus vulgaris, L. lo-^C^ J^h^^

Hab. Spain, South of France, Italy.
Obs.— Cultivated.

Thymus liirtus, Wiild,

Boiss. tab. cxxxviii.

138 SYNOPSIS OF

Vai'. a, legitimus, Boiss.

Caules procumbentes. Folia fere eglandulosa
inferiora lineari-lanceolata subrevoluta. Capi-
tula oblongo-cylindrica basi interrupta e verti-
cillis approximatis constantia. Corolla rosea.

Hab. Varieties found in the South of Spain, var a. on
the Sierra Bermeja and Sierra Tejeda.

Obs. — In Gibraltar tliis plant is vulgarly known as the wild
thyme.

Thymus diffusus, Salzmann, non Boiss.
Hab. Spain, Gibraltar.

Obs. — In Dr. Lemann's collection.

Micromeria graeca, Benth.

Var. latifolia, Boiss. Caules elati saepe 1 — 2
pedales. Folia latiora ovata. Subtus valde
nervosa. — Boiss,
M, nervosa, Boiss., Schedul non Desf.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa. Several
varieties in Spain.
Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Melissa Nepeta, L.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.
Calamintha vulgaris, Sweet, /.^c t^^^w <.«.<-

Hab. Middle and south of Europe. Asia Minor. North
of Africa. Azores. Canary Isles.
Obs.— The Melissa cordifolia is said to grow in Gibraltar.

Nepeta tuberosa, L.

N, radice tuberosa, caule quadrangulo villoso ad-
presse folioso, foliis sessilibus lanceolatis basi

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 139

cordatis obtusissime crenatis subtus prgecipue

tomentosis, verticillastris in spicam longissimam

densam confluentibus, bracteis membranaceis

ovato-lanceolatis acuminatis violaceis, calycis

arcuati villosi dentibus lanceolato-subulatis,

corollae cseruleo-violaceae tubo valde exserto.

N, tuherosa, L., non Desf. Fl. Atl.

Hab. Portugal, South of Spain, Sicily.

Obs. — This species so closely resembles the N. reticulata of Desf.,
that, for a long time I called it by that name, until Boissier's
remarks cleared up my doubts ; and he does not think, with
Mr. Bentham, that the two species should he united. Boissier
observes, that they inhabit two different regions. " La N. tu-
herosa se reconnait a sa tige toute couverte de feuilles dressees
et toraenteuses, a son long epi terminal entre-mele de bractees
violettes ; la N. reticulata a ses verticilles separes, ses bractees
surpassent les calices en longueur, sont transparentes et reti-
culees, caractere, qui ne parait pas au surplus tres-constant."
The Nepeta reticulata may perhaps also grow in Gibraltar or
its neighbourhood ; however, I cannot do wrong in giving
Boissier's description of it, to enable my friends in Gibraltar to
distinguish the two species : —
Nepeta reticulata, Desf.

N. tota viscidula, radice tuberosa, caule quadrangulo pu-
bescente, foliis sessilibus oblongo-lanceolatis crenatis
pubescenti-viscidis, verticillastris subdistinctis, supremis
confluentibus, bracteis ovatis acuminatis pellucidis viridi-
reticulatis marginem versus pallide violaceis, calycis arcuati
viscidi reticulato-uervosi dentibus triangulari-lanceolalis
membranaceo-marginatis, corollae pallidae rubrae tubo e
calyce vix exserto. — Boiss.

Stachjs circinata, VHer.

Hab. South of Spain. North of Africa.

MaiTubiiim vulgare, L.

Hab. Europe, Britain, Asia Minor. North of Africa.
Obs. — The Ballola hirsuta is said to grow in Gibraltar.

140 SYNOPSIS OF

Sideritis axborescens, Salzm,

Hab. Spain, Gibraltar (Salzmann and BroussonetJ.

Obs. — I have not seen this plant in Gibraltar.

Sideritis scordioides, L.
Vulg. SamariUa hlanca,
Hab. South of Europe.

Obs.— A very common plant on the higher parts of the rock.

Phlomis purpurea, L.

Vulg. Matagallos,

Hab. Spain, Portugal.

Obs. — A very common plant in Gibraltar, particularly on the
eastern side of the rock.

Phlomis fruticosa, L.

Hab. Spain, Sicily.

Obs.— Communicated by a friend.

Prasium majus, L,

Hab. South of Europe. Balearic Isles. Corsica. Asia
Minor. North of Africa. Madeira.
Obs. — Found on Europa-flat and Windmill-hill.

Teucrium fruticans, L. * '*> £

T. latifolium, L.

Vulg. Olivilla aut Salvia amarga.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Teucrium pseudoscorodonia, Desf,
Hab. Spain. Algiers, Morocco.
Obs. — Rare.

Teucrium polium, L.

Var, «. vulgare, Beuth.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 141

Caules elongati lignosi. Capitula magna densa
conglobata. Tota planta valde cano-tomentosa.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. Arabia. North
of Africa.

Obs. — Grows in great abundance on the higher parts of the rock.
" No plant," observes Boissier, " is more polymorphous than
this plant." The var. /3. montanum, Boiss., may possibly also
grow in Gibraltar.

Teucrium lucidum, Schreh.
Hab. South of Europe.

Obs. — Communicated by Captain Robinson, 72nd Highlanders.

VERBENACEtE, Jms.

Verbena officinalis, L. ^^rL^^,^^^^*-^'-^^^^ i^f>K^-^c^-<-*^ .

Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa. Asia Minor.

Obs. — This is not a common plant on the rock ; it is more fre-
quently met with on the neutral ground.

ACANTHACEiE, Jms.

Acanthus mollis, L. J^^^^-^rz^^^ o-i^Ax^ las^e.^
Vnlg. Yerha gig ante,

Hab. Mediterranean shores of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs.— This is perhaps the most remarkable plant on the rock. Its
graceful forms add to the picturesque beauty of the scenery in
the vicinity of the Alameda and other parts of the rock.

PRIMULACE^, Vent,

Anagallis arvensis, L. i^S^^-^ /^o^.-t^^/ic^t.^.^^.
Hab. Europe, Britain. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Anagallis cserulea, E, B.
Hab. Spain, Portugal, Britain.

142 SYNOPSIS OF

Obs.— The Anagallis Monelli, Z., vel linifolia, L., grows near.
St. Roque.

Samolus Valerandi, L.

Hab. Europe, Britain. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
North America. New Holland.

OBs.—This widely-distributed plant is found in caves ; large spe-
cimens of it cover the floor of a small cave above the Engineei-s'
officers' quarters at Europa. The Primula officinalis is said to
grow in Gibraltar.

PLUMBAGINE^, Juss.

Statice sinuata, L.S:^ ^a^.'^c^^^Cd^

Vulg. Siempreviva azuL Blue everlasting,

Hab. South of Europe, Sardinia, Sicily. Asia Minor.
Palestine. North of Africa. Teneriflfe.

Gas. — Grows in great abundance on the eastern side of the rock,
and covers a large space of ground below the governor's cot-
tage. The beautiful violet colour of the calyx being permanent,
the flowers are sought after, for making everlasting bouquets for
fire-places.

Statice emarginata, W. En,

Statice spathulata, Desf., var. emarginata, Boiss.
Planta basi valde lignosa csespites deiisos edens.
Folia in petiolum eis breviorem attenuata spa-
thulata emarginata.
Hab. South of Spain. North of Africa.

Obs.— Large quantities of this elegant plant are found on the
eastern declivities of the rock, generally on its edges. This is
no doubt the plant enumerated by Von Martins as the S. cor-
data. I have gathered the rare European species, S. acgyptiaca,
at Malaga, on a hill by the road leading to the English cemetery,
with many other plants, to whose locality Mr. Prolong© kindly
directed me.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 143

PLANTAGINE.E, Juss,

Plantago Coronopiis, L. /l^'-^^^Z^.^^

Vulg. Estrella de mar,

Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa. Canary Isles.

Obs. — Found on the lower parts of the rock, and on the neutral-
ground.

Plantago psyllium, L.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
Teneriffe.
Obs.— A very common plant, usually seen on rocky surfaces.

Plantago Lagopus, L.

Var. /3. cylindrica. Major. Scapi 1 — 2 pedales.
SpicsB cylindricae saepe sesqiiipollicares. — Boiss,
P, lusitanica, L. Desf., Atl.

Hab. Mediterranean shores of Europe. Levant. North
of Africa.

Plantago pilosa, Pourr.
P. Bellardi, All.

Hab. Mediterranean shores of Europe. Asia Minor.
Barbary.

Plantago major, L.
Vulg. Llanten.

Obs. — The P. Loeflingii is said to grow in Gibraltar. The speci-
mens shown me as such were merely varieties of the P.
Coronopus.

AMARANTHACE^, Jms.

Achyranthes argentea, Lam,

Hab. South of Spain, Sicily. North of Africa.

144 * SYNOPSIS OF

CHENOPODE.E, Vent.

Salicornia fruticosa, L.

Arthrocnemum fruticosum, M oq.
Salicornia radicans, Sm.
Vulg. Sosa alacranera.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Chenopodium Bonus-Henricus, L,

Hab. Europe, Britain.

Obs.— Communicated by Dr. Dumhreck.

Chenopodium album, L.

Hab. Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Suseda maritima, Moq,

Chenopodium maritimum, L.

Salsola maritima, Poiret.

Hab. Europe. North of Africa. Cuba. St. Helena.

Obs.— I found also a few specimens of another variety, on the
sea-shore, below Europa-flat ; perhaps this is the Var. salsa of
Moq. " Folia ohtusiuscula nee acuta. Glomeruli Jlorum magis
approximati.''^

Salsola Kali, L,

Salsola rosacea, Cavan. Non. L.

Hab. Littoral plains of Europe, Britain. North America.
North of Africa. Asia Media.

Halogeton sativus, Moq,

Salsola sativa, L. non Cavan.
Vulg. Barilla fina.
Hab. Spain.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 145

PHYTOLACCEiE, R. Brown,

Phytolacca dioica, L.

Vulg. Bella somhra, Sp.

Hab. South America.

Obs. — This is one of the many foreign plants introduced into
Gibraltar by General Don. This tree arrives at great perfection
on the rock, and, from its thick foliage affording so much shade,
it is a very valuable tree in that climate. It has likewise been
introduced into Malaga. There is also a very healthy specimen
of the P. decandra in the garden of the Colonel of Engineers;
and it grows almost wild on the hills of Ronda. The term
pepper-wood or pepper-tree is not applied (as Boissier states) to
the P. dioica, but to the Schinus molle.

POLYGONE.E, Juss.

Rumex thyrsoides, Desf.

Hab. South of Spain, Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily. North
of Africa.

Rumex tingitanus, L,

Hab. Portugal, Spain, South of France. North of
Africa.

Rumex bucephalophorus, L.

Hab. South of Spain, Italy. Canary Isles. North of
Africa. Asia Minor.

Rumex scutatus, L.

YdiY, glaucus. Totus valde glaucus, basi suffru-

ticosus. Folia cordato-hastata.
JR. glaucus, J acq.
Vulg. Decedara,
Hab. Europe.

Obs. — Rare in Gibraltar; found on Europa-flat.

L

146 SYNOPSIS OF

Emex spinosa, Campd.
Rumex spinosus, L.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Polygonum aviculare, L, /t<^ftr yt.-^^

Hab. Siberia, Britain, South of Europe. North of
Africa. Asia Minor.

Obs. — Rare in Gibraltar.

Polygonum maritimum, L.

Hab. Britain, Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia
Minor. North of Africa.

Obs. — Rare on the neutral-ground ; more frequently met with on
the sandy desert beyond it.

THYMELE^, Jms,

Passe lina villosa, Boiss.

Boiss., tab. clvii., fig. B.

Daphne villosa, L.

Passenna tingitana, Salzm.

Hab. South of Spain, Portugal. North and west of
Africa.

Obs. — Passerina hirsuta, X., and the Passerina canescens, J5om.
are said to grow in Gibraltar ; but I have not seen them near
the rock. They are frequently found on sandy soils near St.
Roque.

Daphne gnidium, L.

Vulg. Torbisco seu Torovisco.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of
Africa. Teneriffe.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 147

Obs. — Found in great abundance about the middle third of the
rock, above the Alameda. It is seen in flower even as late as
September, and part of October.

SANTALACE^, R. Br.

Osyris alba, L.

Vulg. Retama loco.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa. Levant.
Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Thesium humile, Vahl.

Hab. Spain, Sardinia, Sicily, Greece. North of Africa.
Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

ARISTOLOCHIE^, Juss,

Aristolochia longa, L.

Hab. South of Europe, Sardinia. North of Africa.

Aristolochia glauca, Desf,
A, bwtica, L.
Vulg. Balsimina,

Hab. Spain, Portugal. Barbary.

Obs. — Generally found entwining itself among the leaves of the
Chamterops humilis and Rharanus oleoides. The A. rotun-
da is said to grow in Gibraltar, but I have not been able to
identify it.

EUPHORBIACE^, Juss,

Ricinus communis, L.

Vulg. Higuera de injierno.

L 2

148 SYNOPSIS OF

Hab. East Indies. Introduced into the South of
Europe, &c.

Obs. — The castor-oil plant thrives well on the rock ; and in many
places it is found wild.

Mercurialis ambigua, L,

M. annua, Medical Officers' Report.

Hab. Britain, South of France, Spain, Portugal, Cor-
sica, Greece. North of Africa.

Euphorbia chamaesyce, L.

Var. canescens, Rseper.

M. canescens, L.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor, Palestine. North
of Africa.

Obs. — This remarkable species of Euphorbia is found in small
patches over all the grassy part of the neutral-ground, and
cannot fail to attract the attention when it flowers, late in
summer.

Euphorbia rupicola, Boiss.
Boiss., tab. clxi.
E, caulibus fruticosis ramosis parte superiori fo-
liosis, foliis lanceolatis integerrimis mucronatis
uninerviis subtus parce pilosis, umbellae quin-
quefidae radiis bilidis, involucris ovatis, involu-
cellis suborbicularibus flores occultantibus,
glandulis integris, capsular verrucis sparsis
hemisphaericis, seminibus laDvibus.—jBo/*s5.

Hab. Spain.

Obs. — Not rare in Gibraltar.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 149

Euphorbia esula, L,

Hab. Britain, South of Spain, Denmark, Germany, &c.
Obs. — Enumerated by Von Martins.

Euphorbia paralias, L.

Hab. Britain, Mediterranean region of Europe, North
of Africa. Canary Isles.

Obs. — Rare on the neutral-ground, but abundant on the sands
beyond it.

Euphorbia proviucialis, Willd,

Var. retusa. Folia infeiiora retusa aut emargi-
uata.

E, heterophylla, Desf.
Hab. Mediterranean shores. TenerifTe. North of Africa.

Euphorbia peplis, L,

Hab. Britain, South of Europe. North of Africa.
Canaries.

Obs. — A very common species.

Euphorbia seiTata, L,

Hab. South of Europe. Egypt. North of Africa.
Obs. — Rare in Gibraltar.

Euphorbia medicaginea, Boiss.
Boiss., tab. clxii.

E, annua, glabra, caule erecto, foliis lineaiibus
aut lanceolato-cuneatis ssepe etiam obcordatis

150 SYNOPSIS OF

parte superiori subserrulatis, umbellse quiiique-
fidse radiis iterato-bifidis, involucri pbyllis
oblongis aut lanceolatis, involucelli reniformi-
bus subrhombeis aut trilobis macronatis,
glandulis bicomibus, capsula laevi, seminibus
subtetragonis profunde vermiculato-insciilptis. —
Boiss.

E. italica, Salzm. non Lam.

Obs. — Very frequently met with on various parts of the rock.

Euphorbia segetalis, L.
E, portlandica, De C.
Hab. Middle and south of Europe. North of Africa.

Obs.— Enumerated by Von Martins ; hut it may he confounded
with a variety of the E. retusa.

Euphorbia trinervia, Boiss.
Boiss., tab. clxiii.
E. perennis glabra multicaulis basi suffi-utescens,
caulibus erectis, foHis linearibus acuminatis
deflexis subtrinerviis integerrimis, umbellae
quinquefidae radiis bifidis, involucri phyllis folio
conformibus sed latioribus, involucelli oblongo-
linearibus acuminatis, glandulis bicornibus,
capsula la^vi, seminibus ovatis parce et obsolete
punctato-depressis. — Boiss.

Hab. Spain.

Obs.— Boissier found this species between Gibraltar and St.
Roque. I gathered only a few specimens on a waste place
near the Inundation.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 151

URTICEA^, Juss.

Thelygonum cynocrambe, L.
Cynocramhe alsinifolia, Bair.
Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of Africa.

Parietaria diffusa, M, K.

P. judaica, vai*. Auct non L.
P. officinalis, Desf. (Medical Officers' Report).
Hab. Middle and South of Europe. North of Africa.
Obs. — A very common plant on the rock.

Urtica mens, L,

Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa.
Urtica dioica, L. c^^^^c^-^*- *^<^^^ /^e:/r€^t^

Hab. Europe, Britain. North of Africa.

Obs. — I have not seen the Urtica pilulifera in Gibraltar.

MORE.E, Bndl

Ficus carica, L.

Vulg. Higuera.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia. Africa.

Obs. — The fig-tree is observed to grow in the fissures of the rocks
where there is scarcely any soil, and in places where it could
not have been cultivated. Several varieties of it are cultivated
in gardens, where the fruit arrives at great perfection, when
proper care is taken of them. There is a gigantic fig-tree in
Mr. Bracebridge's garden, in the south ; its trunk measuring
48 feet in circumference, and supposed to be upwards of 200
years old.

152 SYNOPSIS OF

Moms nigi-a, Willd.

Vulg. Moral,

Hab. South of Italy. Persia.

Obs. — The climate of this part of Andalusia does not appear
suited for the cultivation of the mulberry (M. alba). In the
south district the black mulberry tree grows to an immense
size, and bears a large quantity of fruit. Mr. Sprague, the
very enterprising and hospitable American consul, has laid out
a mulberry plantation, a few miles beyond Gibraltar, but which
does not seem to thrive, owing to its bad situation.

CUPULIFERtE, Rich.

Quercus suber, L. Col^L itct
Vulg. Alcornoque,

Hab. South of France, Italy. Portugal, Spain. North
of Africa.

Obs. — A few specimens appear to have been introduced on the
rock. The cork-tree grows in abundance in the woods near St.
Boque, with the Q. lusitanica, var. /3. ;* hence the name of
* Cork-wood' is applied to a part of the extensive domains of
the Marquis Medina Sidonia.

Quercus Ilex, L. J^t^AL

Vulg. Incina.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Obs. — It is diflScult to say whether this species was ever wild on
the rock.

* Quercus lusitanica, var. ^. hatica, Webb ; vel Q. hybrida, Brot.
Fl. Lusit. Folia majora fere plana ovata margine obtuse crenata basi
saepe cordata, juniora subtus tomentella.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 153

Quercus coccifera, L,

Ilex cocci/era, Clu.

Vulg. Carrasco.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Asia Minor.
North of Africa.

Ofis.—Generally found under the shade of larger trees.

SALICINE^, Rich.

Populus alba, L. Cir/<<^ /i'/Li^c-i,
Vulg. Alama bianco.

Hab. Britain, Middle and South of Europe. North of
Africa.

Obs. — Cultivated extensively.

CONIFERS, Juss.

Ephedra fragilis, Desf.

E. distachya, Sched., Boiss., non Linn.
Vulg. Yerha de coyunturas,

Hab. South of Portugal, Spain. Balearic Isles. Sar-
dinia. Arabia Petraea. North of Africa.

Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Ephedra altissima, Desf.

Hab. North of Africa. South of Spain.

Obs. — The eastern side of the rock is the particular locality of
this interesting plant. It is easily distinguished from the last
species, from its joints not disarticulating so readily, and its
branches being longer and tortuous.

154 SYNOPSIS OF

Pinus sylvestiis, L.
Vulg. Pino chapo.

Hab. Europe, &c.

Obs. — Introduced. Planted even on the higher parts of the rock,
above the Alameda. A few specimens of other species are
also cultivated, and likewise the Cypress.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 155

MONOCOTYLEDONES.

NAIADE.E, mch.

Ruppia rostellata, Koch.
Hab. Britain, France, Germany, Spain.

Obs. — This species is found in the Inundation, near the land-port,
where also is seen a species of Potamogeton. This species is
commonly known as the R. maritima. It is also found near
the convict establishment.

Zostera marina, L.

Hab. Mediterranean shores. Britain.
Obs. — Found near the western beach.

Posidonia Caulini, Koen.
Zostera oceanica, L.
Hab. Mediterranean shores, &c.
Obs. — Found near the north-front guard.

AROIDE^, Juss.

Arisarum vulgare, Kunth.
Arum arisarum, L.
Vulg. Candelillos de zorra.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa

156 SYNOPSIS OF

Obs. — A very common plant in Gibraltar ; found generally on the
higher parts of the rock, and on the bastions on the line-wall.
The pot-like cavities, in which is found a rich soil, are also
favourite places for this remarkable plant. The Arum Dracun-
culus is seen in a few gardens ; and the A. italicum is abun-
dantly cultivated.

PALM^, L.

Chamaerops humilis, L.

Phcenix humilis, Cavan.

Vulg. Palmito,

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Sardinia. Si-
cily. North of Africa.

Obs. — The eastern side of the rock is nearly covered with this
species of the fan palm ; and it is also found in other parts of
the rock, but not in so great profusion. The Spaniards consi-
der its cabbage a great delicacy ; and it affords, as has already
been observed, food for the apes. Solitary specimens of other
species of African palms are found in some gardens. The
Phoenix dactylifera is the most frequently met with.

ORCHIDE.^, Juss,

Orchis vaiiegata, AIL

Vai\ acuminata, N. Sepala basi ovata apice
loiige acimiinato-attenuata, iuferiora exteiiori-
bus saepe dimidio minora. — Boiss.

0, acuminata, Desf.
O. conica, Willd.
Hab. Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — This plant is erroneously called in Gibraltar the O. py-
ramidalis,

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 157

Ophrys apifera, Huds, >-<^-^ o^^c^/
Vulg. Flor de la abeja,

Hab. Britain, Middle and South of Europe. North of
Africa.

Ophrys lutea, Cavan.

O. vespifera, Brot.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of
Africa.

Ophrys tenthredinifera, Willd,

Hab. Portugal, Spain, Greece, Italy. North of Africa.

Obs. — Communicated.

Peristylus cordatus, Lmdl.
Orchis cordata, Willd.
Hab. South of Europe. Madeira. Canary Isles.
Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Neottia spiralis, Sw.

Spiranthes autumnalis, Rich.
Hab. Europe, Britain.

Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

BROMELIACEtE, Juss.

Agave americana, L.
Aloe americana, Clus.
Vulg. Pita.
Hab. Tropical America.

Obs. — Planted extensively over the rock, where it grows in great
perfection, forming good barricades, and, when in flower.

158 SYNOPSIS OF

a pleasing object in the landscape. A few specimens of the
variety variegata (with yellow-margined leaves) are also seen
in gardens and in hedges. This plant certainly lives after
flowering ; and a new plant, growing from it, flowering perhaps
soon after, gives the idea that the same plant flowers more
than once.

IRIDE^, Juss,

Trichonema bulbocodium, Ker,

Txia bulbocodium, L.

Crocus vernus, Clus.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — This beautiful little plant is seen in great abundance
nearly every where on the south-east side of the rock. Europa-
flat is covered with it.

Gladiolus segetum, GawL ^r^*^t^ //^,
GL italicus, Gaud.
GL communis, Sibth.
Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of Africa.
Obs. — Generally seen above the Alameda.

Iris Sisyrinchium, L.

Var. minor, Cambess.

Sisyrinchium minus, Clus.

Morea Sisyrinchium, H. K.

Hab. Portugal, Spain. Corsica. Sardinia. Greece.
Asia Minor. Egypt. North of Africa.

Obs. — The chief habitats of this plant on the rock are Europa-
fiat and the bastions near the New Mole ; generally growing in
company with the Ornithogalum umbellatum.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 159

Iris filifolia, Boiss.

Boiss., tab. clxx.
Iris xiphium, var. Gibraltaricum, E. F. K.

Hab. Found by Boissier on the Sierra de Mijas, above
Alhaurin, Cruz de Mendoza, Sierra Bermeja. Alt.
3000—4000. B. Flowers in May.
(See Appendix for description).

Obs. — The first specimen of this beautiful species was sent to me
by Captain Aylmer, of the Royal Artillery, a few days before I
left Gibraltar for Grenada. During my absence, Miss Mann,
daughter of the late General Mann, collected for me several
specimens near the Hole-in-the-wall, above the Mediterranean-
stair, at an elevation of about 1400 feet. My first impression
on seeing the plant was, that it was only a variety of the
Iris xiphium, but subsequently I found many characters suffi-
cient to constitute it a new species ; and since having compared
the specimen with Boissier's description and plate, I doubt not
that this is his Iris filifolia : the narrow convolute -canaliculated
leaves are almost sufficient to characterise the species. I have
seen in Sir William Hooker's Herbarium a more perfect spe-
cimen from Gibraltar, presented to him by Dr. Findlay, to
which, however, no name was affixed, until Dr. Hooker decided
it to be the Iris filifolia of Boissier. Among my imperfect
specimens there are also parts of an Iris resembling those of
the I. xiphium, the leaves being narrow and flat ; and it is yet
to be ascertianed whether both species grow in G ibraltar. I
have been also informed that the Iris filifolia is found on the
Queen of Spain's Chair. The true Iris xiphium I gathered on
the road to Grenada. There is also, above the governor's cot-
tage, another Iris, with flat fan-shaped leaves, though I have
not been so fortunate as to see it in flower ; but, from all ac-
counts, it seems to be a garden species. The Iris pseudacorus
I gathered near Castellar, and second Venta on the road to the
Cork-wood.

AMARYLLIDE^, B. Br,
Pancratium maiitimum, L.

160 SYNOPSIS OF

Hemerocallis valentina, Clus.
Vulg. Sea Lily,

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — A few specimens are found on the neutral-ground, and on
the sandy banks beyond Catalan bay ; but all along the sandy
desert beyond the Spanish lines it grows in great abundance.
When nearly every blade of grass is dried up, the white lily-
like flowers of the Pancratium greet the eye of the rider on the
western beach.

Narcissus niveus, LoiseL
N. stellatus, De C.
N, tazetta, Brot. non L.

N, totus albus prior, Clus. TV. latijblius, H. Clus.
N. orientalis, Medical Officers' Report.
Vulg. Meados de zorra.

Hab. Western Mediterranean region. Portugal, Spain,
South of France. North-west of Africa. Flowers
in January and February.

Obs. — This is evidently the plant observed by Clusius in Gibral-
tar. In Smith's Herbarium (Linnean Society) there is a
specimen of Narcissus resembling the Gibraltar plant, to which
is affixed N. papyraceus (M. S. Linn. jil). In Sir William
Hooker's Herbarium there are specimens of the same plant
from Tangier, where it grows in great abundance. The N.
niveus is also found in great profusion on the swampy lands
near the Cork-wood, growing among rushes.

SMILACEtE, R, Br.

Smilax aspera, L,

Vulg. Salsa parilla.
Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. Cyprus.

Obs. — This is the most common species in Gibraltar and its
neighbourhood. Found in great abundance in the hedges on
the road to St. Roque.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 161

Sinilax mauritanica, Desf,
8m, nigra, Willd.
Sm. catalonica, Lam. Diet.
Hab. South of Spain. Corsica. Sardinia. South of
Italy, Greece. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

Obs. — Not so common as the last species. Found generally
in the neighbourhood of Aristolocbia glauca, near the Me-
diterranean-stair, entwining itself among branches of Rhamnus
Oleoides and leaves of Chamaerops humilis.

Ruscus hypophyllum, L.

Laurus alexandrina vera, Ban*.
Vulg. Laureola.

Hab. South of Spain, Italy, Greece. North of Africa.

LILIACE^, De C,

Fritillaria pyrenaica, L., (Webb).
Fr, meleagris, Desf.
Fr. messanensis, Rafin.
Hab. South of Spain, Sicily, Calabria. North of
Africa.

Obs. — Very rare in Gibraltar ; only a few specimens were gathered
by Dr. Lemann in 1840. This tribe of plants, though rather
common in Andalusia, has no other representative on the rock.
The beautiful Tulipa celsiana is found in great profusion on
the Queen of Spain's Chair. Both plants are usually found at
an elevation of between 2,000 and 3,000 feet.

Omithogalum unifolium, Gawl.

Hab. Gibraltar, fAuctJ. Portugal.

Obs. — I place this plant here upon the authority of authors (see
Loudon's Encyclopcedia of Plants )y though I have not seen a
single specimen of it on the rock ; but as it is found in great

M

162 SYNOPSIS OF

profusion on the left side of the Spanish race- course (nearly
two miles and a half from Gibraltar), the mistake may thus
have originated.

Omithogalum umbellatum, L.

0, hceticum, El. Boiss. No. 181.

Hab. Britain, middle and south of Europe, Denmark.
North of Africa.

Scilla hemisphaerica, Boiss,
Sc. peruviana, L.
Eriophorus peruvianus, Clus.
Vai\ glabra. Folia margine glabra nee ciliata.

Hab. Varieties in Spain, Portugal, France, Sicily. North
of Africa.

Obs. — This beautiful species of squill (en-oneously called in Gib-
raltar the Star of Bethlehem) grows on the higher parts of the
rock. It has a near aflSnity to Scilla Ramburii of Boiss.,
which is a smaller plant. It was at one time believed to come
from Peru, hence its former specific designation. The Scilla
pumila is found on the Queen of Spain's Chair, and another
species, very like it, on the Spanish race-course ; perhaps this is
the S. campanulata. Ait

Scilla autumnalis, L.

Hab. Britain, Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — Found usually in the neighbourhood of the Colchicum,
and, like it, flowers before the leaves appear, in September and
October. Its raceme is not unlike that of the Asphodelus ra-
mosus, which is in flower in March and April.

Allium ampeloprasum, L.
A. multijlorum, Desf.

Hab. Britain, Europe. North of Africa.

Allium roseum, L.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 163

Allium neapolitanum, Cyr. ?
A. album, Santi.
A, lacteum, Sibth.

Hab. South of Spain, Italy, Greece.

Obs. — I am not quite certain as to the specific characters of this
plant, the specimens being in a very imperfect state. Friends
in Gibraltar must clear up the matter.

Allium tiiquetrum, L.
Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — The Allium vineale, and A. ursinum are also said to grow
in Gibraltar, but I have not been able to identify them.

Uropetalum serotinum, GawL

Hab. Western Mediterranean region of Europe. North
of Africa. Teneriffe.
Obs. — Found on the back of the rock by Dr. Leraann.

Muscari comosum, Mill,

Hyacinthus comosus,

Hab. Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — Found in great abundance on the neutral-ground (in flower
during the race-weeks). It has also been seen on the glacis
below Victoria battery, and above the Alameda. (Dr. Lemann).

Aloe arborescens, H. K.
Hab. South of Africa. Cultivated in Barbadoes, &c.

Obs. — This is one of the species of aloe from which the medici-
nal aloe is produced. It is cultivated extensively in Gibraltar
as an ornamental plant. The Alameda abounds with it.

Asphodelus microcarpus, Viv,
A, ramosuSy L.
Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of Afiica.
Obs. — A very common plant in Gibraltar.

M 2

164 SYNOPSIS OF

Asphodelus fistulosus, L.

Asphodelus minor, Clus.

Vulg. Gamones.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of
Africa. Egypt.

Asparagus officinalis, L,

Hab. South of Europe, Britain.
Obs. — All but wild on the rock.

Asparagus albus, L,

Vulg. Esparraguera.

Hab. South of Europe. Corsica. Sardinia. North of
Africa.

Obs. — Found near Europa-flat.

Asparagus acutifolius, L,

Vulg. Asparago trigueru,

Hab. Mediterranean regions of Europe. North of
Africa.

Obs. — Found more widely distributed on the rock.

COLCHICACEiE, De C

Colchicum autumnale, L. ku^^^ld2^S^^04fh£ i i.r
Var. Gibraltaricum, c^^^^^iUw*..— C'l^-^i^^

Colchicum Bivonce, Guss. ?

Hab. Spain, Portugal, Greece.

Obs. — The only difference between the Gibraltar plant and the C.
autumnale of other countries is in the petals, which are larger

GfBRALTAR PLANTS. 166

and tessellated ; but never have I seen more than two flowers
in a spathe, generally only one. As I have observed specimens
of C. Bivonae, in several collections, with only one flower, I am
inclined to think the Gibraltar plant only one form of it;
more especially as Boissier does not give another species in his
Voyage Botanique dans le midi de VEspagne.

JUNCE.^, De C.

Junciis acutus, L.

Hab. Mediterranean shores. Britain.

Juncus striatus, Schoush.
J. Fonianesii, Gay.
J, gihraltaricus, Salzm.
J, echinuloides, Webb, It. Hisp.

Hab. Portugal, south of Spain, south of France, Sicily,
Greece. North of Africa.

Obs. — First observed by Salzmann in the neighbourhood of Gib-
raltar, where it grows in great abundance, but it is rare on the
neutral-ground.

Juncus bufonius, L.

Var. y. fasciculiflorus, Boiss. Flores in dicho-
tomiis et ad apicem ramorum per 5 — 10 fasci-
culati.

J, jasciculatus, Bertol.

Hab. Varieties found in Europe, Britain. North of
Africa. Arabia. Azores. South America.

Obs. — A very common plant on the sandy desert beyond the
Spanish lines ; rare on the neutral-ground.

166 SYNOPSIS OF

CYPERACEiE, Juss.

Cyperus rotundus, L.
C, olivaris, Targ.
Vulg. Castanuela.
Hab. South of Europe. Africa. India. America.
Cyperus badius, Desf,

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.
Obs. — Neither very abundant on the neutral-ground.

Schoenus mucronatus, L,

Cyperus cegyptiacus, Glox.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of
Africa.

Obs. — A very common species on the neutral-ground.

Scii'pus holoschoenus, L.

S, australis, L.

S. romanus, L.

S, longihracteatus, Salzm.

Hab. Britain, Europe. Palestine. North of Africa.
Canary Isles.

GRAMINE.^, Juss.

Phleum pratense, L,

Hab. Varieties in Europe, Britain. America.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 167

Piptatherum caerulescens, Pal,

Milium ccerulescens, Schousb.

Hab. Spain, South of France, Italy, Greece. North of
Africa. Gibraltar, (SalzmannJ.

Piptatherum multiflorum, P. de B,

Agrostis miliacea, L.

Milium arundinaceum, Sibth.

Vulg. Migera,

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of Africa.
Arabia Petraea.

Gastridium lendigerum, Gaud,

Milium lendigerum^ L.

Agrostis lendigera, Brot.
Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
Polypogon monspeliense, Desf.

Alopecurus monspeliensis, L.

Phleum crinitum, Sibth.

Hab. South of Europe. Arabia Petraea. Egypt. North
of Africa. America.

Obs. — Rather abundant on the rock above the Alameda, and on
the neutral-ground.

Ammophila arundinacea, Hort,

Arundo arenaria, L.

Hab. Littoral plains of Europe. North of Africa.
North America.

Obs. — Rare on the neutral-ground ; abundant on the sandy desert
beyond the Spanish lines.

168 SYNOPSIS OF

Arundo Donax, L.

Donax arundinaceus, Pal.
Vulg. Cana.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of Africa.
Asia Minor.

Obs. — Cultivated for forming fences. Found wild in the neigh-
bourhood, as is also the Phragmites communis.

Avena neglecta, Willd,

Tnsetum neglectum, R. et Sch.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Poa annua, L.

Hab. Varieties in the Pyrenees, Corsica, Spain, Siberia,
Britain.

Briza maxima, L. ^i^^^/w^-^-y ^^J:
Hab. South of Europe, Levant. North of Africa.

Briza minor, JL. ?

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.
America.

Dactylis littoralis, Willd.

Poa littoralis, Gou.
Dactylis maritima, Schrad.

Hab. South of France, Spain, Italy, Siberia.

Catapodium loliaceum, Link,
Triticum loliaceum ^ Sm.

Hab. Middle and south of Europe.
Obs. — Found in Gibraltar by Salzmann.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 169

Festuca ciliata, Danth.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.
Obs. — Communicated by a friend.

Festuca calycina, L.
Hab. Spain.

Festuca alopecurus, Schousb,

Vulpia alopecurus, Link. var. «. Panicula simplex,
spiculse 7 — 9 florae, glumellae margine ciliatae
glumellam suam aequantes, gluma exterior
minima, interior flosculis paulo brevier.

Hab. Portugal, Spain. North of Africa. Italy.
Obs. — Found on the neutml-ground and near Cave-guard.

Bromus rubens, L,

Festuca rubens, R. et Sch.

Hab. South of France, Spain, Italy, Greece. North of
Afiica.

Lolium perenne, L.
Var. tenue,
Vulg. Ballico-loco,
Hab. Europe. North of Africa. North America.

Hordeum murinum, L.

Hab. Britain, Europe. Arabia. North of Africa.

Lepturus incurvatus, Trin,
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.
Obs.— Found by Salzmann.

170 SYNOPSIS OF

Lepturus subulatus, Kunth.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of Africa.
Obs.— -Found by Salzmann,

Andropogon Gryllus, L,
Hab. South of Europe. Barbary.

Zea Mays, Willd.
Hab. America.

Obs.— Cultivated in and near Gibraltar.

Melica aspera, Desf.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.
Obs.— Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Lagurus ovatus, L.

Hab. Britain, Mediterranean region of Europe, south
and west of France. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

ACOT YLEDONES

EQUISETACEiE, Rich.

Equisetum hyemale, Br,
Var. ramosum,

Hab. Britain, Europe. North and south of Africa.
Arabia.

Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 171

LYCOPODIACE^, Rich,
Lycopodium denticulatum, L.

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. North of Africa.

FILICES, R, Br.

Davallia canariensis, Sm.

Trichomanes canariensis, L.

Hab. Portugal, south of Spain. North of Africa.
Madeira. Canary Isles.

Obs. — Rare; communicated. Found by Boissier near St.
Roque. Abundant in the Cork-wood, on oak trees.

Cheilanthes odora, Sw.

Polypodium fragrans, Desf.
Adianthum fragrans, De C.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Gymnogi-amma leptophylla, Kunth.
Polypodium leptophyllum, L., Desf.

Hab. Mediterranean region of Europe. North of Africa.
Canary Isles.

Notochlaena lanuginosa, Kaulf.
Acrostichum lanuginosum, Desf.

Hab. South of Europe. Madeira. Canary Isles. North
of Africa. Gibraltar (Boissier J.

Ceterach officinaruin, C. Bauh.
Asplenium Ceterach, L.

Hab. Britain, middle and south of Europe. North of
Africa.

172 SYNOPSIS OF

y Scolopendrium Haemionitis, Cav,
S. sagittatum, De C.

Asplenium Hamionitis, L. non Brot.

Hab. Spain, south of France. Corsica. Sardinia. South
of Italy.

Obs.— Found in St. Michael's cave, as also in the caves below the
Governor's cottage, the floors of which are now on a level with
the sea.

^

Adiantum Capillus- Veneris, L.
Vulg. Culantrillo seu araneula,
(Maiden-hair).
Hab. Britain, south of Europe. North of Africa.
V Asplenium Trichomanes, L,

Hab. Britain, Europe. North of Africa.

^ Asplenium Adiantum-nigrum, L,

Hab. Britain, middle and south of Europe. North of
Africa.

Obs. — Communicated by Dr. Lemann.

Polypodium vulgarej L.

Hab. Britain, Europe, North of Africa. North
America.

HEPATICiE, LICHENES, &c. .

Of Lichens, Mosses, &c. there are a great number
of species on the rock, the moist atmosphere sm-
rounding it giving opportunities for their develop-
ment and rapid growth. I regret that unavoidable

GIBRALTAR PLANTS. 173

circumstances have prevented my making any large

collections of these interesting tribes of vegetable
productions. The most common species on the rock

are the following : —

Marchantia polymorpha.
Targionia hypophylla.

Michelii.

, Lunularia vulgaris.
Rebonillia hemisphaerica.
Roccella tinctoria.
fuciformis.

ADDENDA.

LEGUMINOSi^.

Cytisus triflorus, VHerit.
Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Obs. — Rare ; observed on the rock by M. Willkomm, a German
botanist ; more frequently seen on the Queen of Spain's Chair.

Cytisus lanigerus, De C,
Calycotome villosa, Link.

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa. Asia Minor.
Vicia hybrida, L. }/r IcA,

Hab. South of Europe, Britain. Asia Minor. North
of Africa.

Obs.— This plant is a near neighbour of V. vestita, Boiss. The
leaves of the latter are lanceolate-mucronate ; and the hairs of
the pendulous flat pods rise from tuberculous points.

174 SYNOPSIS OF

SANTALACE^.

Osyris quadripartita, Salzm.

Hab. South of Spain. North of Africa.

Obs. — Found on the rock by M. Willkomm. The specimens in
Dr. Lemann's collection are certainly those of Osyris alba.

EUPHORBIACEiE.

Euphorbia helioscopia, L.

Hab. Britain, Europe, &c.
Obs.— Observed on the rock by M. Willkomm.

URTICE^.

Urtica membranacea, Poi7\

Hab. South of Europe. North of Africa.

Mercurialis annua, L.
Hab. Britain, Europe, &c.

GERANIACEiE.

Erodium laciniatum

Hab. South of Europe. Asia Minor. Barbary.

COMPOSITiE.

^Etheorhiza bulbosa, Cass.
Leontodon bulbosum, L.

Hab. Mediterranean region. Portugal. North of
Africa.
Obs.— Enumerated by M. Willkomm.

PART IV.

VEGETATION

OF THE

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR,

" Arise
To trace the woods, the vales, — where thousand dyes
The ground adorn."

PART IV.
VEGETATION

OF THE

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR.

The botanist, after having examined the rock and
its immediate vicinity, will doubtless feel inclined to
proceed further into Andalusia, where a richer and
a more extensive field awaits him. On passing the
boundaries of the neutral-ground, he enters the Spa-
nish territory, where he will meet with customs and
manners totally different from those he has been
accustomed to see in Gibraltar. The Spanish pea-
santry, with whom the stranger must necessaiily
come in contact during his tours, is a manageable
race, though report has made them to appear in
an unfavourable light. They are, of course, like all
their countrymen, easily irritated ; but none are more
influenced by civility and kind words than the Anda-
lusian mountaineers. A cigar or cigaritto mil obtain
a courteous reception for the stranger which even the
usual salutation of " Vaya vm con Dies'* may fail to
procure him ; therefore the botanist will not do wrong

N

178 VEGETATION OF THE

in providing himself with a supply of the diied leaf
of the best Nicotiana tabaciim, though he may not be
himself addicted to its use. There have been a few
instances of some unfortunate Gibraltarians being
caiTied off by a gang of robbers from the neigh-
bourhood of St. Roque, and only ransomed by
large sums of money ; but these instances ai'e very
rare, though it may be as well to be prepared for
emergencies. The stranger may also find it conve-
nient to engage a guide at St. Roque ; at all events
it will be prudent to enlist in his cause a kind friend
from Gibraltar who is well acquainted with the
country, for in many parts it is as wild and unculti-
vated as the forests of America.

Having passed extensive beds of Cachrys ptero-
chlaena, the Spanish Hues are approached. Tliese
lines consist of a few houses and baiTacks for soldiers
stationed here, under the command of a colonel.
There is scarcely a tree to be seen on this spot, and
beyond it, is the little sandy desert spoken of in a
foimer part of this book. The aridity of the soil
prevents any extensive production; but such is the
natui-e of the chmate that, with a little cai'e, a few
vegetables are successfully cultivated. For more
than a mile this bed of sand extends, and only near
the lines are there any green patches to be seen.
Here the Ononis Gibraltarica, O. natrix, Cachrys
pterochlaena and Delphinium peregiinum gi'ow in
great abundance. On the left, near the western
beach, there is scarcely any other plant than the
lovely Pancratium maritimum, which continues to

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 179

flower when all other vegetation is dried up ; at dis-
tant intervals are found a few specimens of Poly-
gonum maritimum, Ononis variegata, Paronychia
cymosa, De C, Juncus acutus, J. bufonius, J. mari-
timus, Medicago marina, and the beautiful Eryngium
ihcifolium ; and less frequently the Matthiola sinuata,
and Schoenus mucronatus. Beyond the large stream,
about a mile and a quarter from the Spanish line,
is an extensive plain, called the Spanish race-course,
the property of Messrs. Francia, merchants in Gib-
raltar. It appears that at a remote period this part
was extensively cultivated, and perhaps there was
once abundance of underwood. The encampment of
the combined forces during the siege of Gibraltar has
removed all traces of vineyards and olive plantations
which are said at one time to have also existed here ;
but it is to be hoped that the present owners of the
ground will appropriate it to a better use than for
the grazing of cattle. The botanist will not perhaps
regret the continuance of its present uncultivated
state, for the number of interesting plants found in
this locality is very considerable. Early in autumn
the gTound is nearly covered with the graceful Leu-
cojum tricophyllum. This is succeeded by a large
riety of the Ornithogalum umbellatum (O. boetica,
Boiss.) On the left of the road leading to St.Roque
are found large beds of the Scilla vernalis and Orni-
thogalum unifolium. The O. narbonense is in flower
later in summer, but not found in so great abmidance
as the two other species. Lobelia urens is found
near the hedges in great profusion. The abun-

N 2

180 VEGETATION OF THE

dance and variety of plants found in this locality is
truly surprising ; however, there is scarcely any one
species larger than the Ulex boeticus, which covers
many acres of tliis extensive plain. Among several
hundred species growing here, I gathered the Ranun-
culus gramineus, Hypericum tomentosiun, Lupinus
luteus, Lupinus hirsutus, and Scoi-piurus vermiculata ;
more rarely the Anchusa calcarea, Boiss,, and the
singular and elegant green narcissus (N. viridiflorus,
Schoush,) Later in summer the whole of this plain
is densely covered with Carlina corymbosa, Cynara
horrida, several species of Centaurea, and a very
large variety of Senecio Jacohea.

On the right of the Spanish race-course is the hill
called Queen of Spain's Chair, so named from one of
the queens of Spain having once sat on its sum-
mit. This hill, which is one of the terminating points
of a series of liills rising from 1,500 to 3,000 feet
high, chiefly composed of limestone and sandstone,
affords an almost inexhaustible somce of pleasure to
the lover of wild flowers. Perhaps there is scarcely
any other spot near Gibraltar more abundant in vege-
tation. The base of the hill, and a little way above,
it is covered with masses of Lavandula staechas and
several species of Genista, Cistus, and Erica, of the
latter, the Erica australis being most abundant; as
also the Genista Gibraltarica. In the midst of these
are found Briza maxima and Astrocarpus sesamoides,
De C. Higher up the hill the orchideous plants are
seen in great profusion, the most common being the
Ophrys lutea, O. apifera, and, rarely, Satyrium den-

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 181

siflorum, Brot., and Serapias lingua, L. In shallow
pools, near the base of the hill, I found the Alisma
ranunculoides, which is more frequently met with in
the marshes near the rivers Gauderanque and Pal-
mones. Among other plants on this hill I gathered
Helianthemum monspeliaca, Thrincia tuberosa, and
the elegant Tulipa celsiana, De C. Miss Mann has
informed me that she has seen the Iris fiUfolia, Boiss.,
on this prolific hill ; and Dr. Lemann has specimens
of the Scilla pumila from the same part. It appears
singular that the Queen of Spain*s Chair should
abound with plants which have not a single represen-
tative on the rock of Gibraltar; and still more
strange that some of the plants of Gibraltar are not
growing on this hill, though they are scarcely three
miles apart.

It is difficult to direct which way to proceed from
this interesting hill : on every side is a lai'ge and
perhaps unexplored locality, therefore the botanist
will here be guided by circumstances. There is a
pathway which will take him to St. Roque, through a
small village called Pindalista ; from thence he may
proceed through the mountain range till he reach the
Malaga road, which will bring him to St. Roque : or,
if he choose, he can extend his walk to the eastern
beach, and between Gibraltar and Estepona he will
meet with a considerable number of very interesting
plants, such as the Helichrysum staechas, Dorycnopsis
Gerardi, Boiss., Campanula Rapunculus, />., Gentiana
maritima, L., Teucrium spinosum, L., Daucus mari-

182 VEGETATION OF THE

nus, and another species, mth many kinds of Centau-
rea, Carduus, &c.

For convenience sake we shall suppose the botanist
to have regained the high-road to St. Roque. On the
left of the Queen of Spain's Chair the small village
of Campo is situated, near the upper end of the race-
course ; the road passes through, thus making it a kind
of halfway -house to frequenters of St. Roque. It is
considered a very salubrious place, and is conse-
quently made the summer residence of invalids from
Gibraltar; and a few merchants take apartments
there for their families. The air about here is purer,
but being much exposed to all winds, which fre-
quently blow very boisterously across the plain, espe-
cially in the winter months, there is no inducement
for making the village their pemianent residence.
A little way beyond the outsku'ts of Campo, towards
the bay-side, is the newly-discovered Roman ruin
alluded to in a former part of this book. Near this
locality, the Centaurea polyacantha grows in great
abundance ; on the right of the high-road there are
some extensive fields, where the beautiful Hedysarum
coronarium is seen in gi-eat profusion ; this plant is
found nearly all the way to St. Roque, forming large
crimson masses among the green of the barley and
oats, and makes excellent fodder for cattle. On the
road-side there is a variety of plants; — the principal
kinds are Helminthia echioides, Passerina canescens,
Mentha Pulegium, var. tomentella, Salvia rotundi-
folia, S. boetica, Cerinthe major, Scorpiurus sub-

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 183

villosa, Vicia atropui-purea, Scabiosa maritima; the
last three species in gi-eatest number. In the lower
parts, and near the water-courses, are found Lythrum
flexuosum and Urtica membranacea. On the slopes
of the hill through which the road is cut are seen the
Ornithogalum narbonense, Cirsium syriacum, Nigella
hispanica, and Lavatera trimestris. In the hedges
the Smilax aspera and Aristolochia boetica entwine
round the branches of the Crataegus, Rubus, and
Arundo donax, while also Convolvulus althaeoides
may be seen in great profusion. Midway between
tte village of Campo and St. Roque is the farm, or
rather garden, of Mr. Francis Francia, British vice-
consul at St. Roque, a native of Gibraltar, who has,
with an industry and taste rarely found in this part of
Spain, laid out a very large piece of ground in a
flower and fruit garden where many exotics have been
introduced; among these the Loquat (Eriobotrya
japonica), and several rare vaiieties of the orange
are found to grow in gi-eat perfection.* A little
further on is the fann of the American consul, Mr.
Sprague, who is endeavouring to cultivate grapes

* On excavating one part of this land a few years since,
an artificial cave was discovered, which extended a great
way into the body of the hill, and contained evidences of
its former occupation by man. A grave was also disco-
vered in the garden, containing several human skeletons,
in a very perfect state of preservation ; there were rude
implements, chiefly of stone, buried with them, which
are considered to indicate that the remains are those of
Phcenicians.

184 VEGETATION OF THE

and mulberries, the latter I believe not with much
success, as there is a scarcity of water in the neigh-
bourhood, and for this reason Mr. Sprague has been
forming an Artesian well, which was not completed
when I left Gibraltar.

About a mile from this farm is the town of St.
Roque, picturesquely situated on a high hill, over-
looking rich fields and pasture lands. From one of
the most elevated points of tliis hill a panoramic view
of perhaps more than a hundred miles in extent is
obtained. The Mediterranean, with Afiic's bold shores
beyond it ; Gibraltar, rising, like an island from amidst
the ocean ; behind the town, the Corkwood, seen in
the distance, with ranges of blue hills, forming the
chain of the Ronda mountains; the white snowy
heights of the Sierra Nevada, also seen from this
eminence ; Algesiras, and the site where once stood
ancient Carteia, mth the classic rivers of Palmones
and Guaderenque, emptying their crystal streams
in the blue waters of the bay ; all contribute to form
a scene which, for grandeur and beauty, can scarely be
equalled even by the wildest dreams of fancy. The
town of St. Roque is scarcely worthy of attention, except
as being one of the cleanest of Spanish towns ; there
are but few modern houses in it, and the only build-
ings of importance are the church and town-hall, in
the Plaza de la Constitucion. The latter is remarkable
for containing, above the first staircase, a small but
elegantly worked basso-relievo, found a few years
ago among the buried ruins of Carteia. Most of the
older houses in St. Roque are built of stones, reco-

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 185

vered from the same ruins. On the hill on which St.
Roque now stands there was formerly a hermitage ;
but since the Spaniards of Gibraltar sought a refuge
here, when that fortress was taken by the English, the
number of houses has gradually increased, and from its
close proximity to so great a commercial emporium as
Gibraltar once was, the number of inhabitants has
considerably increased. The poorer classes still live
chiefly upon the people of Gibraltar, whom they supply
with the produce of the country. The population
does not, however, I believe, exceed ten thousand,
including the military and strangers. This town,
like most other towns in Spain, has occasionally
produced men of militar}^ eminence, who have dis-
tinguished themselves in the revolutionary wars of
the country. The writer of the * Guide Book to Gib-
raltar' quaintly observes, that, " with a lingering hope
of again possessing the fortress of Gibraltar, the city
of Gibraltar is said to exist in San Roque." Be this
as it may, it is notorious that in all public acts the
Roquians still style themselves the inhabitants of
Gibraltar residing at St. Roque, and the general at
Algesiras is called the commandant of the Campo de
Gibraltar ; some even say, that like the remnants of
the Grenada Moors now in Morocco, the old families
in St. Roque hand down from one generation to ano-
ther the keys of the houses which theb' forefathers
brought with them on quitting Gibraltar. To whatever
extent the jealous feelings of the Spanish may now be
excited in prejudice to the English power, it is very
gratifying to observe the friendly intercourse which at

186 VEGETATION OF THE

present exists between the English residents of Gib-
raltar and the Spaniards in the neighbourhood ; many
English families, chiefly of the mercantile classes,
reside in St. Roque during the summer months, and
a few even make it their peimanent residence. Offi-
cers from our garrison are daily seen in St. Roque,
partaking of the good fare which Mr. M'Crae
(landlord of the English hotel) provides for appetites
made keen by a delightful ride, or after a long day's
tally-ho ! across the wild mountain plains in the Cork-
wood. However refreshing the air of St. Roque may
be to invahds, it is necessary to be cautious not to
ventui'e too far in the too tempting fields, which are
sometimes fraught with dead malaria. Those who
go to St. Roque for change of air are frequently
brought into Gibraltar the victims of ague and remit-
tent fever ; the botanist must, however, take his
chance of both, for where the choicest flowers gi'ow,
there also, in most instances, do diseases find a suita-
ble bed ; he must, if possible, choose his night's
lodgings, which very often is impracticable ; but the
safest plan would be to make St. Roque or Algesiras
his head-quarters. The towns of Gaucin, Los Bar-
rios, &c. will also afford him a safe shelter from
pestiferous vapours ; but he must make up his mind
to suffer heroically from " small disquietudes and
insect sting sJ"

A pathway leads from the Alameda of St. Roque
to the Corkwood, which, passing through cultivated
fields, goes over loftier hills, covered with red, white,
and yellow blossoms of various species of Cistus, of

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 187

Ononis, and Genista. The road for a great way is
Kned with Ruhus fruticosus, Vinca media, Lavatera
trimestris, and Fumaria capreolata ; the botanist will
also find a very rich field of interesting plants in the
immediate neighbourhood of St. Roque. The slope
of the hill on which the country-house called Alman-
dral is situated, is covered with the white blossoms of
the Clematis cirrhosa ; two species of Saponaria, and
the Carduus giganteus are also common on this hill,
and likewise the Erythrea major, E. centaurium,
Cirsium syriacum. Lychnis caeli-rosa, and in lower
parts Hypericum perfoHatum and Nigella hispanica
are brought into view. The plains are covered with
Salvia boetica, Hedysarum fontanesii, and a variety
of plants common to Gibraltar, with a few rare ones,
among which I found the Lythrum salicaria, var. to-
mentosa. On the banks of a tiibutary stream to the
Guaderenque are found in great abundance Nas-
turtium hispanicum and Equisetum hyemale, and
occasionally the beautiful Trachelium caeruleum. On
sandy parts the grasses are very numerous ; among
these are the Carex marina, Briza minor, several
species of Bromus and Cyperus. The swampy lands
between the two rivers are covered with Bellis annua,
Asphodelus ramosus. Narcissus niveus, AHsma ra-
nunculoides, and several species of Ranunculus and
Juncus, as also a yellow Iris. On the sides of the
road leading to the Corkwood, by the first Venta,
are seen in great abundance the Allium triquetrum
and Fcedia cornucopise, the latter a very conunon
plant in Gibraltai*, and all over this part of Andalusia.

188 VEGETATION OF THE

The ride through the Corkwood from the second
Venta is delightftil ; the entrance to this almost virgin
forest puts one in mind of scenery in England, the
cork-trees representing the old oaks seen in many an
entrance to a country mansion ; but here these noble
trees, instead of being surrounded by marks of civiliza-
tion, gi'ow m wild mountainous regions. In the so-
called Corkwood, the trees ai*e principally of two
species of Quercus, viz. Q. suber and Q. lusitanica,
vai\ hcetica ; their old weather-beaten trunks and
branches are of various shades of brown and gi*een,
formed by the numerous lichens which gi'ow upon
them. Mr. Willkomm, a young German botanist,
whose acquaintance I had the pleasure of making in
Malaga, enumerates, among several species, Usnea
barbata and Sticta pulmonacea. On these fine trees
the Davallia canariensis and the Polypodium vulgare
also grow in great profusion, finding a matronly
shelter from the thick foliage, under the shade of
which grow also the Erica arborea, E. umbellata,
Oxalis comiculata, Helianthemum tuberarium, Hype-
ricum ciliatum, Trichonema bulbocodium, and Sedum
acre. On the more level parts the ground is covered
with Pteris aquilina, several species of Genista and
Sarothamnus boeticus. The plants here have a fresh-
ness even in summer, when the unsheltered parts
near St. Roque are parched up ; and many attain an
unusually large size. Near this noble forest is the
farm which once belonged to the late Duke of Kent,
and adjoining it is a thickly set copse of pines, under
whose shade grow Genista tridenta and Linum radiola,

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 189

with many other plants. The botanist can scarcely
find in any part of Andalusia a more extensive or a
more varied field for his perambulations, nor can the
lover of forest scenery picture to himself more
perfect sylvan groves than are to be found in this
wood, where the busy hum of men will never distm'b
his transports of pleasure. Nearly the whole of this
great forest belongs to a member of the ancient house
of Medina Sidonia, the founder of which once dis-
puted the possession of the rock of Gibraltar with the
monarch of Spain, and who for many yeai's reigned
over the territory of Gibraltar. Even at the present
time this forest and a few scattered villages yield an
annual rental of 35,000 dollars, which sum may be
doubled by a little care being taken of the property,
and other use made of the wide domain than cutting
the trees on it for charcoal, and stripping the bark off
the cork-trees. At one time the limits of the city of
Gibraltar extended to these woods ; for, according to
Ayala, the territory of what was called the city of
Gibraltar extended " five leagues from east to west,
and three from nortli to south, comprising a circuit
of twenty-five leagues ;" and " the population of
San Roque, Algesiras, and Los Barrios, with their
territories and boundaries united, foimed the entire
city of Gibraltar." It would also appear from this
writer's account, that the country which is now lying
almost waste, and covered with so many objects
pleasing to the botanist's taste, was in former times
extensively cultivated, and that the olive and vine

190 VEGETATION OF THE

were as plentiful here as in other paits of the south of
Spain.

An old convent, celebrated for the miracles which
its patron saint has worked in former ages, is situa-
ted in a district of the Corkwood called Almorama ;
its only inmates at present are an aged priest and a
few half-starved attendants, supported more by the
generosity of British visitants than by the pious offer-
ings of pilgrims. The long galleries suiTounding the
time-worn cloisters frequently shake with the merri-
ment of the pic-nic parties from Gibraltar, who,
attracted by the seclusiveness of the spot, and the
beauty of the suiTOunding scenery, resort here fre-
quently during the spring and early part of summer,
to shake off the ennui consequent on a residence in so
dull a place as the rock. A little beyond the con-
vent of Almorama is a dilapidated pile of buildings,
called the Long Stables, and here the botanist will
find a path leading to the rocky eminence on which
stands Castellar, famed in Spanish history for the
remarkable sieges it sustained during the Moorish
wars. The castle is now almost a heap of ruins, and
the houses within are mouldering to dust, with the
exception of the one occasionally occupied by the lord
of this extensive district. Curiosity once led me into
the interior of this building, and among other antiques
there is in the drawing-room one of Broadwood's
oldest Pianos, which was considered a great acquisi-
tion by the inhabitants of this old-fashioned place,
although scarcely a note could be extracted from it.

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 191

A small gratuity to the fat old lady in charge of this
antiquated mansion, will procure the tourist admission
to the turret, which commands a very extensive view
of the sierras of Spain. Notwithstanding the pre-
sent dilapidated condition of this castle, a handful of
troops and a few cannons would be quite sufficient to
defend it against almost any besieging army, the
ascent to it is so difficult, and the height nearly 2,000
feet. Tired and exhausted, the writer, in company
with a few friends, amved within the castle walls,
where notliing else was to be obtained in the shape of
refreshment than vino-hlanco and a crust of bread,
which to the hungry was as acceptable as any dish
prepared by a Spanish cook. It was a hot summer's
day, and the plants we gathered were unfit for drying ;
but a hasty survey of the vegetation of this neigh-
bourhood gave a very favourable idea of its richness.
In the ravines below, the crimson flowers of the Ne-
rium oleander enliven the masses of green foimed by
a bundled other plants, among which are found
Arbutus Unedo, Viburnum Tinus, Laurus nobilis, and
occasionally Rhododendron ponticum, a plant more
frequently met with nearer Algesiras, and supposed
to have been introduced by the Moors. On the
heights above these interesting species of plants,
Phylleria media, P. augustifolia, Olea europea,
Rhamnus oleoides, R. lycioides, Myrtus communis,
and Chamaerops humilis occur in great abundance;
among these are scattered a number of orcliideous
plants, the most common forms being Ophrys lutea,
O. apifera, Peristylus cordatus, and Serapias lingua.

192 VEGETATION OF THE

Mr. Willkomm found here the Polygala microphylla
and a Fritillaria. After a close examination of this
interesting locahty, the botanist may find it agreeable
to enter a pathway leading to a romantic part called
Boca del Leon ; having anived there, he will find
himself in a situation which, if ever brigand chose
a spot to commit deeds of blood, it would be this.
One expects in this glen to behold some wild ani-
mal, or even a more dangerous foe — a robber, at
every iiistling of the plants disturbing the quietness
which reigns here. The smell of the sweet blossoms
around, and the cooing of the wild pigeon, enchant
him, but as he stoops to gather the wild flowers,
which grow here in gi'eat abundance, he expects
some concealed murderer to stai't upon him from one
of the bushes : these fears are, however, unnecessary,
as Spain is not now that inhuman place which history
has painted her ; the Spanish peasant or muleteer is a
pleasant companion to meet with on the road ; he is
accustomed to see strangers, and officers from Gibral-
tar are great favourites with these classes, and if
only civilly treated, without the supercilious air of
inexperienced travellers, the stranger will meet with
a good reception, and the botanist will find some of
them very useful in his excursions. Various roads go
through the Corkwood, some to Gaucin, Ximena, and
Ronda ; others to Los Barrios and Algesiras ; but as
the present work has already exceeded the contem-
plated limits, this short sketch of a very interesting
botanical locality must be concluded, and a few notices
briefly made of other places in the neighbourhood.

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 193

From the Corkwood the botanist may retrace his
steps to the second Venta, from whence he will find it
practicable to go to the small town called Los Barrios,
famed for still possessing the statue of San Joseph,
which had been clandestinely removed from Gibraltar
by some pious catholics on leaving that fortress, when
it fell into the hands of its present possessors. The
country through which the botanist will now chiefly
pass is low and marshy, and after leaving Los Barrios
and crossing the river Palmones, the littoral plains
may be reached by a short cut ; but perhaps it will
be preferable to keep more inland, and enter into the
woods behind Algesiras, where a great number of
plants not hitherto met with may be seen growing
luxuriantly. Among these occur frequently Vitex
Agnus-castus, Phlomis Herba-venti, Scilla maritima,
and Arenaria spathulata. Mr. Willkomm, in his
botanical notices of Spain, mentions that in this neigh-
bourhood he met with the splendid Drosophyllum
lusitanicum, for the first time, and that he found it to
cover the whole northern acclivity of the mountain
named Cerro Comodore. The town of Algesiras is si-
tuated almost opposite to Gibraltar. The history of this
place is nearly contemporaneous with that of the Rock ;
it was originally a Moorish town, but rebuilt in 1 760 by
Charles the Third. The walls of many houses are
almost entirely composed of stones recovered from
the ruins of Carteia; the antiquaiian has cause to
regi^et that the sides with inscriptions on them are
generally built inwards, so that he will have some diffi-
culty in ti'acing more of the history of so renowned a

o

194 VEGETATION OF THE

place as Carteia on the walls of modem Algesiras,
which has risen from being only a fishing village to a
commercial port of considerable importance, and was
a source of much annoyance to the British during the
wars. The celebrated floating batteries which were
destined to destroy the EngHsh fortress were made
within the harbour of Algesiras. The Spaniards still
keep here a large force, where the general command-
ing the district resides. This place is also frequented
by Enghsh residents of Gibraltai', chiefly to see the
small waterfall within an hour's ride of the town ; the
elegant aqueduct also attracts the stranger's attention.
The botanist making Algesiras one of liis head-quar-
ters, will find miles of smTounding country to supply
him with rare and beautiful plants. Circumstances
which a medical officer of the garrison of Gibraltar
cannot always obviate, prevented the writer taking
more than a few hours' walk in tliis part of Andalusia ;
Mr. Willkomm, however, examined this locality, as
well as many miles beyond it, and the reader will be
able to judge, from the lucid descriptions of this accu-
rate observer,* what an interesting field there is here
for the botanist. According to Mr. Willkomm, the
vegetation of the hills in the neighbourhood of Couil
differs little from that observed on the hills near Alge-
siras, though the number of species between Couil,
Cape Trafalgar, and Veger was not so great. In the
neighbourhood of the Cape, large tracts were covered

* See * Annals of Natural History,' for a translation of
Mr. Willkomm's papers.

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 195

with Leucojum tricophjUum, Brot., a plant which
grows in great profusion on the Spanish race-course,
near Gibraltar. Mr. W. also found in the marshes
near the Cape, among other plants common to the
whole of this district, Ranunculus paludosus, Desf,,
growing plentifully, as also the Ranunculus flabella-
tus, which is a more common plant. Mr. Willkomm,
after describing the vegetation of hUls near St. Roque,
observes of the hilly land near Algesu'as, that it is
almost '' exclusively covered with Calycotome vDlosa
(Spartium villosum) and a Genista ; patches of Cha-
mserops humilis are also frequently seen, and, more
seldom a Sarothamnus. On somewhat moist places,
and under bushes, grow everywhere Allium trique-
trum, L., and also Bellis sylvestris, Cyr,, B. annua,
L,, Ranunculus flabellatus, Rumex bucephalophorus,
a small blue-flowered Linum,* especially in the scat-
tered copses of Pinus picea, also Hedysarum coro-
narium, L., Ophrys apifera, Huds., more rarely, and
only on limestone, Ophrys lutea, Cav,, several Carices
and grasses. Salvia Verbenaca, AnthyUis tetraphylla,
Calendula arvensis, Alyssum maritimum, Cerastium
glomeratum, Cerinthe major, Conigiola littoralis, &c.
Large patches were covered with Pteris aquilina,
especially along the foot of the mountains ; whilst in
the moist lowlands and marshes grew Juncus acutus,
Heleochaiis palustris and Carices in abundance, and,
rarely, AHsma ranunculoides." This list may be consi-
derably increased by any botanist who can spare more

* Linum angustifolium, Huds.
O 2

196 VEGETATION OF THE

time than Mr. Willkomm had for an examination of
these hills and lowlands, in various months of the year.
Leaving Algesiras on returning to Gibraltar, the
walk along the bay-side is very interesting, though
perhaps not to the botanist, the sandy soil giving little
opportunity for vegetation to spring up ; but the tourist
having to cross two rivers of considerable importance
in ancient history, finds an interest which the sandy
and almost blank hills along the shore would not
otherwise possess. The Palmones and Guadarenque,
rising in the heights of the Sien*a de Gazales, and
winding their way through fertile valleys and plains,
empty their contents into the northern part of the
Gibraltar bay. The space between the mouths of the
two rivers is scarcely two miles ; both rivers are
crossed by ferry-boats. On the eastern side of the
Guadarenque (the river nearest Gibraltar) lie the
buried i^uins of Car tela. Few casual visitors to
Gibraltar are aware that within five miles of that
fortress is the site of so great a Roman city, or that
on the waters of the Guadarenque were once moored
hundreds of Roman galleys, and that it was here that
Pompey took refuge after the fatal battle of Monda,
and that history records the important part which the
citizens of Carteia took in Coesar's wars, or that it was
from Carteia that Sextus Pompeius, after the death
of Caesar, marched at the head of six legions. Those
who are curious to know the early history of this part
of Spain will find Carter's account of his jom-ney to
Malaga a very entertaining and useful companion.
This author states, that one Don Macaio Farinas

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 197

surveyed Carteia about 400 years ago, and that the
mole was then entire, and " that it had illustrious
ruins of superb edifices standing." At present there
are but few vestiges of this great city ; some eight or
ten pillars of its theatre still remain on the side of a
hill now overgrown with species of Daucus and Cen-
taurea. Coins and fragments of temples, &c. are
occasionally brought up by the plough ; most of the
stones obtained here have been used in the buildings
of St. Roque and Algesiras, and lately the stones
found in the ruin described in an early part of this
book have been used for the same purpose, chiefly by
Mr. Francia, in erecting his villa on the Spanish race-
course. We shall not stop here to inquire whether
Carteia, Tartessus, and Heraclea were one and the
same city; but few can go over the ground where once
stood a rich and flourishing city, without exclaiming
with Carter, when he saw these ruins, '^ O, Carteia !
thou once famous and renowned city, whose beauty
and loveliness captivated the merchants, drawing all
nations of the earth to thy port, can I contemplate
without compassion thy present desolate state ? Be-
hold, thy noble theatre is destroyed, thy populous
sti'eets are ploughed up and sown, thy walls are taken
away, thy sacred temples are beat down, and thy
beauteous head, once crowned with turrets, is now
levelled with the dust ! Where are thy senators, thy
purpled quatuor-vui, thy fediles, thy streets swaim-
ing with people ? Thy port is destroyed, no fleets
are to be seen in it, nor the shout of mariners any
more heard ; thy fields for want of culture are turned

198 VEGETATION OF THE

to morasses ; the very air over thee is become heavy
and unwholesome, and the chilling ague drives man
from thine habitation : — in thy latter end, as in thy
prosperity, one common fate attends thee with the
mighty Babylon." Such was the stiain in which a
writer in the eighteenth centmy spoke; and the
admii'er of Roman glory mil have now even still
greater cause for lament, — scarcely an unbroken
Roman stone is now left on the banks of the Guada-
renque. The modern farm house called El Roccido
will denote the spot, when other traces of it are lost.
The neighbouring hills are comparatively ban-en,
scarcely a tree is to be found on them. Among
smaller plants found here are various species of Dau-
cus, Centaurea acaulis, Kentrophyllum arborescens,
Cynara horrida, Scolymus hispanicus, Pulicaria dy-
senterica, P. arabica. Thymus hirtus, and T. vulgaris.
Although it cannot be expected that the writer
should have exhausted the botanical riches of the
neighbourhood of Gibraltai*, it is to be hoped he
has given as faithful an account of it as opportunities
have permitted him. After examining the Carteian
hills, the traveller, on his return to Gibraltar, will
pass through a small village called the Orange-gi'ove,
though there are now but few orange trees, and vege-
tation of all kinds is scanty and impoverished, from
neglect, and the natural disadvantages of a sandy
soil. Leaving the Orange-grove, a few riiiles of sandy
mounds are passed, till the Spanish lines are again
entered ; here the tourist will have an opportunity of
seeing the ruins of Fort St. Philip, which was blown

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR. 199

up, with Fort St. Barbara, on the opposite side of the
lines, as a precautionary measure, during the late
revolutionary war, when Spain was overrun by a
French army.

Having now completed the circuit marked out at
the commencement of this work, little else is left for
the writer, than to wish that the future explorer of
this region may find more opportunities than the
author has had for extending his inquiries, and a
hope that he has given at least a fair insight into the
Flora of Gibraltar and its neighbourhood, though it
may not be deemed a perfect account.

In addition to nearly two-thirds of the plants enume-
rated in the foregoing ' Synopsis,' the following are found
growing within twenty miles of Gibraltar, in the district
of Spain called Andalusia.*

DICOTYLEDONES.

Alisma Ranunculoides, L. Malcomia lacera, De C. P

Ranunculus aquatilis, L. Cakile maritima, Scop.

gramineus, L. Cistus populifolius, L.

paludosus, Desf. crispus, L.

arveusis, L. salvifolius, L,

parvifloms, L, Helianthemum Libanotis, Willd.

Nigella hispanica, L. tuberaria, L.

Fumaria hygrometrica, Huds. laevipes, Willd. P

Nasturtium officinale, jR. Br. Polygala monspeliaca, L.

* In this list are included all plants found by the author within fifteen
miles of Gibraltar, and also those observed by Boissier, Webb, and
Willkomm, at Estepona and Marabella, on the road to Malaga.

200

VEGETATION OF THE

Polygala nicaeensis, Riss.

microphylla, L.

Silene gallica, L.

hirsuta, Lag.

Lychnis cceli-rosa, Desv.
Arenaria spathulata, Desf.
Linum Eadiola, L.
Lavatera triloba, L,
Gossypium herbaceum, L.
Viburnum Tinus, L.
Rhododendron ponticum, L.
Hypericum tomentosum, L.

perforatum, L.

pubescens, Boiss.

ciliatum, Lam.

Erodium Botrys, Bertol.
Oxalis corniculata, L.
Ruta angusti folia, Pers.
Arbutus Uuedo, L.
Trachelium caeruleum, L.
Ulex boeticus, Boiss.
Sarothamnus affinis, Boiss.

arboreus, Webb.

Genista Haenseleri, Boiss.

Gibraltarica, De C.

hirsuta, Wahl.

Lupinus hirsutus, L.

luteus, L.

Ononis Picardi, Boiss.

monophylla, Desf.

Anthyllis hamosa, Desf.
Dorycnopsis Gerardi, Boiss.
Medicago minima, Willd.
Melilotus intermedia, Boiss.
Trifolium arvense, L.

lappaceum, L.

scabrum, L,

ochroleucum, L.

hirtura, All.

Trifolium cherleri, L.

glomeratum, L.

— ^^ resupinatum, L.
Dorycnicum rectum, Ser.
Lotus angustissimus, L.

creticus, L.

Galega oflScinalis, L.
Glycyrrhiza glabra, L.
Astragalus pentaglottis, L., Mant.
Astrolobium ebracteatura, De C.
Hippocrepis uuisiliquosa, L.

ciliata, Willd.

Hedysarum Fontanesii, Boiss.
Onobrychis horrida, Desv.
Vicia vestita, Boiss.
Lathyrus latifolius, L.

annuus, L.

Potentilla reptans, L.
Poterium Agriraonifolium, Car.
Rosa sempervirens, L.

canina, L.

Crataegus Oxyacantha, L., Koch.
Epilobium montanum, L.

hirsutum, L.

Lythrum Salicaria, L.

Var. tomentosuyn, De C.

flexuosum. Lag.

Cucumis Colocynthis, L.
Herniaria cinerea, De C.
Paronychia echinata. Lam.

nivea, Boiss.

Sedum acre, L.

amplexicaule, De C.

Eryngium maritimum, C. B.

aquifolium, Cav.

tricuspidatum, L.

Amni Visnaga, L.
Biipleurum protractum, Link.
(Enanthe apiifolia, Brot.

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GIBRALTAR.

201

Thapsia garganica, L.

villosa, L.

Daucus brachylobus, Boiss.

marinus, Desf.

Viscum cruciatum, Sieh.
Asperula hirsuta, Desf.
Rubia angustifolia, Linn.
Galium glomeratum, Desf.
Cephalaria syriaca, Schr.
Pterocephalus Broussonetii, Boiss.
Anacyclus clavatus, Pers.
Diotis candidissima, Desf.
Carliua sulphurea, Desf.
Centaurea sempervirens, L.

melitensis, L.

Kentrophyllum lanatum, De C.
Carduncellus caeruleus, De C.
Carduus myriacanthus, Salz.

gigaiiteus, Desf.

Cirsium syriacum, L.
Tolpis barbata, Gcertn.
Hypochaeris Salzmanniana, De C.
Seriola aethnensis, L.
Podospermum calcitrapifolium,

De C.
Helminthia comosa, Boiss.
Crepis virens, Vill.
Andryala tenuifolia.
. Var. y. arenaria, De G.

^a^iTii^.^ Pulicaria dysenterica, Gartn.

arabica, Cass.

Lobelia urens, L.
Campanula Rapuuculus, L.
Phillyrea angustifolia, L.
Calluna vulgaris, Sal.
Erica australis, L.

umbellata, L.

scoparia, L.

Nerium Oleander, L.
Erythvica major, L. et Hoffm.

Gentiana maritima, L.
Convolvulus Maeonanthus, Link.
Batatas edulis, Chois. (cultiv.)
Cressa cretica, L.
Cuscuta Epithymum, L.
Echium gaditanum, Boiss.
Anchusa calcarea, Boiss.
Myosotis sylvatica, Hoffm.

intermedia, Link.

Atropa frutescens, L.
Mandragora officinarum, L.
Scrophularia Scorodonia, L.

auriculata, L.

Linaria viscosa, De Cours.
Veronica saxatalis, Jacq.
Euphrasia minima, Schleich.
Orobanche cruenta, ^S*.
Lavandula Spica, De C.
Mentha aquatica, L.
Salvia viridis, L.

— boetica, Boiss.

Verbenaca, L.

Origanum compactum, Benth.
Thymus vulgaris, L.

capitatus. Link.

Cleonia lusitanica, L.
Stachys cretica, Sibth.

arvensis, L.

hirta, L.

Marrubium hispanicum, Desf.
Phlomis Herba-venti, L.
Teucrium spinosum, L.
Ajuga Iva, L.

pseudo-Iva, De C.

Vitex Agnus-castus, L.
Anagallis linifolia, L.

tenella, L. Mant.

Statice ferulacea, L.
Plumbago europaea, L.
Plantago serraria, L,

202

VEGETATION, ETC.

Amaranthus albus, L.
Rumex acetosella, L.
Polygonum sen-ulatum, La^.
Passerina canescens, Boiss.
Aristolochia bcetica, L.
Euphorbia provincialis, W.

Euphorbia trinervia, Boiss.
Quercus lusitanica, Lam.
Var. fi. boetica, Webb.

Suber, L.

Ilex, L.

Populus nigra, L.

MONOCOTYLEDONES.

Potamogeton natans, L.
Phucagrostis major, Carol.
Orchis saccata, Ten.

coriophora, Lin.

Satyrium densiflorum, Brot.
Peristylus cordatus, Lindl.
Serapias lingua, L.
Gladiolus illyricus, Koch. Syn.
Iris pseudacorus, L.
Leucojum tricophyllum, Brot.
Tulipa celsiana, De C.
Narcissus viridiflorus, Schomh.
Ornithogalum narbonense, L.

unifoliura, L.

Scilla campanulata, Ait.

maritima, L.

verna, Huds.

pumila, Brot.

Allium nigrum, L.

paniculatum, Desf.

Hyacinthus racemosus, L. (?)
Aloe vulgaris, Lam.
Asparagus horridus.

Merendera bulbocodium. Rum.
Juncus glaucus, Ehrh.

lamprocarpus, Ehrh.

Cyperus hirsutus, Salzm.
Carex marina, Scop.

extensa, Good.

Anthoxanthum odoratum, L.

ovatum. Lag.

Stipa tortilis, Desf.
Aristida caerulescens, Desf.
Agrostis Renteri, Boiss.
ChsBturus fasciculatus, Link.
Phragmites communis, Trin.
Echinaria capitata, Desf.
Aira caryophyllea, L.

capillaris, M. K.

Gaudinia fragilis, Pal.
Melica pyramidalis, Bertol.
Vulpia geniculata, Linh.
Bromus macrostachys, Desf.

maximus, Desf.

Brachypodium phoenicoides,

Ret. Sch.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX

A.

Edmund Boissier's Account of Gibraltar. Translated
from his ' Voyage Botanique dans le Midi de VEspagne,
pendant Vann^e, 1837.'

In the morning, on leaving St. Roque, we had the im-
posing view of the rock of Gibraltar, which rose before us
like a black mass. The weather was stormy, and the
summit of the rock was hidden by a band of clouds,*
which I have frequently observed there. Its formation is
explained by the situation of this mountain, in the midst
of waters, and in a strait often agitated by tempestuous
winds. The sea, being enclosed by the rock and by the
African mountains, enlarging into a great gulf between
Gibraltar and Algeciras, appears like a lake. I remarked
by the side of the road a monument erected to a chief of

* The easterly winds, in their course over the waters of the Mediter-
ranean, hecome saturated with a considerable quantity of moisture,
which is precipitated on coming within the influence of the rock ; hence
masses of cloud come rolling down the rock, on the setting-in of an
easterly wind, and, in a short time, a dense sheet of cloud is formed
along nearly the upper half of the rock, which sometimes remains for
5. — Trans.

206 APPENDIX.

those Spanish partisans who, during the war of indepen-
dence, remained under the shelter of the cannons of
Gibraltar, and from thence made sorties against the
French. The road is tolerably good to the beach, but
there all road ceases, and you must follow moving downs,
the sterility of which is only interrupted by the ram-
pant stems of the Centaurea sphajrocephala and the
thorny tufts of the Cachrys pterochlaena. The lines, or
camp of St. Roque, consists of a number of wi*etched
houses, situated at the entrance of the neck of land
which joins Gibraltar to the coast, and which is en-
closed by a line of towers ; these are occupied by per-
sons who are employed in the custom-house or the health-
office ; and there every thing entering or leaving the place
is submitted to a strict examination. It is a kind of
revenge which the Spanish government exercises against
the English usurpation of Gibraltar and the contraband
goods which leave this town, I was obliged to take out a
license, which cost me forty francs, a shameful imposition,
because it is only required when travelling overland, and
never on leaving Malaga, or any other Spanish port.

No comparison can be drawn between the appear-
ance of the soldiers, almost in rags,* mounting guard on
the Spanish lines, and that of the Scotch soldiers, per-
fectly equipped, who are seen a few minutes after at the
entrance of the English territory. There a commissary
demanded my passports, and asked me several questions
relative to the motives of my visit to Gibraltar, the time I
thought of remaining, the friends I had, and the introduc-
tions I might have brought, &c. I was then directed to a
second bureau, where I was obliged to wait until I had sent
to the town for some one to answer for me. This form
would be very inconvenient for those who do not happen

* The Spanish soldier has lately been better clad. — Trans.

APPENDIX. 207

to know any one in Gibraltar, if there were not fortunately
persons who make it their interest to answer for travellers,
carry their passports to the police-ofl5ce,and obtain for them
permission to pass twenty-four hours within the fortress, a
permission which they do not refuse to extend. All these
difficulties which prevent the admission of foreigners, are
not so much from military precautions, as from the fear
which the English have of augmenting a population
already too large for such a small place as Gibraltar.

This town offers so many adv^antages on account of its
free port and the active contraband commerce carried on
there with Spain, that unless some obstacles were placed,
it would soon be overpopulated. Nothing is more difficult
than to obtain permission to establish yourself there, and
even the governor himself has not the right to grant it
under some circumstances. All the officials with whom
I came in contact were extremely polite ; everywhere an
anxiety was shown for the traveller to lose as little of his
time as possible ; there was nothing of that tone or man-
ner of acting which is too often seen in similar officials
in other European countries. This is a trait of civilization
of which England may well be proud.

I contemplated the picturesque appearance of the rock,
near which I had arrived, and which rises from the bed of
sand that unites it to terra firma, almost perpendicularly,
to the height of 1500 feet. At its western base, the nar-
row passage by which you reach the town is defended by
an inundation supplied by the sea, which reaches the rock,
and after having crossed it by a drawbridge, you find
yourself opposite a double front of masonry. From this
side then the assailant has not any chance of success. I
was struck on entering the streets with their animated
appearance, and the variety of costumes and physiogno-
mies. Sailors and merchants of all European nations meet
there ; and even the Moors of the opposite coast, with

208 APPENDIX.

Jews and Armenians ; military are to be met with in
various uniforms ; then the contrabandistas, with their
brilliant costumes, and the women of Gibraltar in their
scarlet cloaks with black borders. Everything here bears
the stamp of order and neatness which characterises the
English. The streets are taken care of and well lighted ;
the promenades are well gravelled and planted with trees ;
the small houses (of a single story) seem, from their situa-
tion and furniture, to have been transported from the banks
of the Thames. It was necessary to make some effort to
persuade myself that I was not the dupe of an illusion,
and that only a few steps separated me from that Spain to
which Gibraltar bears so slight a resemblance. The town
is not large ; the rock confines it so, that there are but
two streets, the rest being only lanes on the declivity of
the mountain. The sea-shore is defended by parapets and
numerous batteries, which command the whole bay. San
Roque, in the distance, crowns a barren eminence ; oppo-
site are seen the white houses of Algeciras ; and at the
entrance of the straits are distinguished the rocks of La
Punta del Camero, which a rough sea always seems to
move. Impatient to see the whole extent of this little
English colony, I went through the south-port gate, and
soon arrived at a well-gravelled space (the Alameda),
which serves also for exercising the troops. All around
are walks planted with exotic trees, of which the most
common is the Phytolacca dioica. The masses of green
were formed by a number of Pelargoniums, which grow
here as luxuriantly as at the Cape of Good Hope, and
among which are found several shrubs of the country.
From thence I bent my steps to Europa-point, by a road
shaded nearly the whole way, and winding beneath over-
hanging rocks. I passed by charming country-houses,
situated in the shades of orange and fig-trees, surrounded
by flower-gardens, and where English industry had found

APPENDIX. 209

means of even cultivating turf. These delightful retreats
are occupied by the officers of the garrison and their fami-
lies : every moment I met the latter either riding, or in
elegant equipages, going to the races on the neutral-ground.
This western side of the rock is the only one by vi^hich it
would be possible to attack the fortress ;* but the fleet that
should attempt such a thing would have very little chance
of success, on account of the batteries which defend the
coast, and the facility with which an united force could be
brought to the point attacked. After half-an-hour's walk
of gradual ascent, I arrived at the level space called
Europa-point, which terminates the southern part of the
peninsula. This point is very important ; it is defended
by several works. Here are also built large barracks,t for
which a better situation could not have been selected, the
air being so pure ; but the want of spring-water is here
much felt, as indeed it is all over the rock. From this
point you see the African coast very distinctly, which is
only four or five leagues off : the point of land on which
the Spanish town of Ceuta is built is also easily distin-
guished. I intended returning by the eastern side of the
rock, but the natural declivities prevented it ; besides, all
the facilities by which you might otherwise have passed
have been removed. The only interesting plant I gathered
in this walk was the Prasium majus, which grows in great
abundance on the rock at Europa-point. Of the rest of
the natural vegetation of Gibraltar I could not fonn an
idea, as you meet with cultivated grounds only, or private
properties enclosed by walls. The letters of introduction
that I brought, procured me a reception in Gibraltar, the
cordiality and hospitality of which I shall always remem-

* And this has also been lately strengthened by extensive fortifi-
cations.— Trans.

t Officers' quarters, mess-room, &c. — Trans.

P

210 APPENDIX.

ber with gratitude. I found all requisite facilities for my
excursions, and I soon obtained a pass, permitting me to
go over any part of the rock, of which I first took advan-
tage by visiting the excavations and fortifications to the
north. Accompanied by a serjeant of artillery, who served
as my cicerone, I ascended by those cleverly cut roads
which wind along the western face of the rock, and along
which cannon can be conveyed. After having passed the
last houses in the city, we met sentinels to whom I showed
my permit, without which no one is allowed to go on the
rock. I remarked by the side of each of these posts a
large pole, supporting a square mat, which at first I ima-
gined was destined for a signal, but the use of which I
found was to shelter the sentry (in summer from the rays
of the sun), who can move it, by means of a rope, which-
ever way he likes. This is one of those details of the
admirable system by which the English, notwithstanding
the insalubrity of some of the colonies to which their
troops are sent, preserve them in better health than any
other nation. A little above an old Moorish castle, whose
solid masonry has resisted both time and weather, we
entered the galleries ; and as we reached those that are
above the landport-gate, T had the good fortune to meet
with the apes, a rare occurrence, as they generally roam
about the inaccessible acclivities on the eastern side of
the rock, and only leave those parts when the cold wind
blows on that side. Of these apes I saw more than twenty ;
they remained on the rocks twenty feet above us, busy in
the midst of the bushes searching for roots and fruits. As
they are never hunted, they are not very wild, and the
noise we made by clapping our hands scarcely made them
run away. The denial firom the Academy of Sciences of
a fact so well attested as that of the presence of apes in
Gibraltar, is almost as absurd as the assertion of a Spa-
niard, with whom 1 travelled from Seville to Madrid, that

APPENDIX. 211

these animals occupied the rock entirely, and were so
numerous that no ship could dare approach land without
running the risk of being sunk. As for knowing whether
the apes have always existed there, or whether they have
become naturalized, it must be difficult to determine ; but
I think the first supposition the most probable, since these
animals are seen on the African mountains, and they might
as well have also inhabited a country so near it, and with
the same climate.

Nothing can be so admirable as the English works on
this part of the mountain ; the rock being cut into large
subterranean passages, lighted occasionally by small
openings (port-holes). The requisite ammunition is all
placed here ; the cannons are varnished over, that they
may the better resist the humidity which prevails in these
vaults. The different heights are connected by steps and
ladders, and often the galleries enlarge into a spacious
room, such as that called St. George's Hall, in which the
governor sometimes gives fetes.* The roof is then orna-
mented with foliage and drapery, the galleries every where
illuminated, permitting the brilliant society of the town to
arrive either in carriages or on horseback.f The real
utility of these splendid works has been much contested ;
some have maintained that the firing of the pieces would
produce a dreadful crash, and that the smoke of the pow-
der would be very inconvenient to the gunners. I doubt
its being so ; but in all cases the effect of these batteries,
and particularly of the most elevated, would be but little
dreaded by an enemy near the foot of the mountain ;
it is true they may be more effectually employed against
a more distant point, and that they would destroy, with
the greatest facility, the camp of San Roque (the Spanish
lines).

* Not lately. — Trans.

t Not all the way. — Trans.

2l2i APPENDIX.

I observed on the road a number of interesting plants,
particularly in the places enclosed by the fortifications,
and thus protected from the teeth of the goats. Here
grow the Phlomis tuberosa, Rumex thrysoides, Malva
hispanica, and Kundmannia sicula. At the opening of
the embrasures I gathered also Stachys circinata. Ca-
lendula marginata, Helichrysum rupestre, and several
other plants partial to the shade, which I could only with
difficulty have procured on the inaccessible heights where
they are generally met with. Without following the
windings of the paths that traverse it, I climbed over the
stones and the bushes of the Chamaerops, the wild olive,
the Genista linifolia, and the Daphne gnidium. I there met
with plants of the hot regions already known, and several
others new to me, such as the Thymus hirtus, the beauti-
ful Scilla hemisphaerica, with umbels of blue flowers, its
bulb sometimes attaining an enormous size ; the Cerastium
Gibraltaricum, with its white corolla elegantly folded, and a
remarkable variety of the Saxifraga globulifera. Bota-
nizing, 1 arrived at the top, and at the highest point,
which is exactly at the northern extremity, there is a
platform, on which is placed a mortar, that one might
suppose had descended from the clouds on this seemingly
inaccessible summit. On leaving this spot, a very nar-
row path runs from north to south, almost insensibly
descending ; it is so steep and rugged, that it should not
be attempted unless you have the sure and light foot of
the goats that feed there. The calcareous beds of the
mountain are inclined towards the town in a rapid but
accessible declivity, whilst to the east they terminate
abruptly in precipices, at the base of which successive
upheavals have formed semiconical declivities reaching to
the sea-shore. On this eastern side it is absolutely im-
possible to climb the rock, and nature alone has the
charge of defending it. There were formerly some points

APPENDIX. 213

where a skilful mountaineer might have climbed, by
clinging to the projecting parts of the rock, but portions
of a wall, already of an ancient date, now prevent all
attempts of this kind. The rocks of this part are full of
hollows and crevices, owing either to the geological revo-
lution which raised them, or the incessant action of storms
and wet winds to which they are constantly exposed.
Rain falls or a fog prevails here when the weather is dry
and fine at St. Roque, or even at the lines. Favoured by
the climate, a great number of plants grow in the hollows,
and under the shelter of stones; amongst others, I re-
marked Ruscus hypophyllum. Clematis cirrhosa, Vinca
media, Smyrnium olusatrum, and Acanthus mollis. I also
found some land-shells, whilst they are very rare on the
mountains of Andalusia, on account of the aridity ; the
Helix marmorata and H. signata were particularly abun-
dant. I will not attempt to describe the charming view
which I enjoyed from this isolated summit, over a conside-
rable extent of sea, and the varied surfaces of two conti-
nents. I arrived at the signal-station, situated about
halfway along the rock, from whence is noticed the
arrival and departure of vessels. After having rested a
few moments with the director, I descended to the town
by a rocky and uninteresting declivity, visiting, in passing,
some caverns, of which the roofs were covered with the
Umbilicus pendulinus, and the Acrostichum lanuginosum.
The following day I passed through the land-port gate
to explore the eastern side of the mountain, where I had
not been previously. That portion of the tongue of land
which forms a part of the English territory, is covered
with gardens, which are fertile, notwithstanding the na-
tural aridity of the soil, and are watered by means of
deep wells w^here the sea-water becomes purified. The
base of the rock was carpeted by a crowd of beautiful
plants, amongst which I discovered large tufts of the

214 APPENDIX.

Statice emarginata, just beginning to flower, but unfor-
tunately growing beyond my reach ; I could, however,
gather a few specimens, by climbing twenty feet, to the
great alarm of a sentry, who ran, supposing I was going to
take the fortress by storm, and was only satisfied as to my
intentions by seeing my pass. Further on I only found a
narrow path at the foot of the sandy bank, against which
the sea was dashing much more furiously than on the side
next the gulf. This part of Gibraltar being completely
isolated from the other by natural escarpments, is not
included in the line of fortifications ; and it would be
sufficient to roll stones firom the top of the mountain to
drive away any assailants. There is here a very small
hamlet, inhabited by fishermen; and a sentry is placed
to prevent any one from disembarking. This side is cer-
tainly the most interesting on a botanical account, and I
regretted being able to make only one excursion, which
the difficulties of the ground rendered very insufficient.
On the sandy declivities I found particularly the Ononis
Gibraltarica, a new species, which was very abundant
there, the yellow flowers of which perfumed the air, the
Brassica papularia, Linaria longipedunculata and multi-
punctata, Caucalis maritima, and several kinds of Daucus.
Vegetation on the whole rock is very interesting ; but the
greatest number of plants grow at so great a height, on
.nan-ow niches, that it is dangerous to attempt getting them.
Amongst others I could only procure a single specimen of
the Silene Gibraltarica, large tufts of which I saw above
my head; I found again Calendula marginata, Stachys
circinata, Helichrysum rupestre, with the Ephedra altis-
sima, Achyranthes argentea, Succowa balearica, and the
elegant Iberis Gibraltarica, whose flowers were already
over. By the richness of the harvest, which I collected
in a few minutes, I could judge of the interest which
exploring Gibraltar could afford, and particularly on this

APPENDIX. 215

side, visiting it at diflferent periods. I am astonished that
such a work has not already been undertaken by some of
the officers of the ganison.

The customs of the place are adhered to with great pre-
cision. At first gun-fire, one hour before sunset, the
land-port gate is closed, not to be again opened till morn-
ing ; soon afterwards, the gate on the road to Europa-
point is closed. On going out at night* no one can walk
about the streets without being the bearer of a pass and
of a lantern, by which the sentinel can read. I was
ignorant of this rule, and coming away very late from a
ball given by the governor, I was stopped by a sentinel,
who would not give credit to my explanations, and I found
myself on the point of passing the night in a guard-room,
when the words " foreign officer" occurred to me, and, by
using this expression, I fortunately got out of the scrape.

When one reflects on the enormous expense which
Gibraltar causes the English, one naturally asks, what
are the advantages which compensate for this enormous
expenditure ? It is not the contraband commerce, although
that is of some importance, and as a shelter for the fleet
this point offers still fewer resources ; there is only one
safe anchorage, and even in that, vessels of large size are
in great danger from the gusts of wind which blow from
the straits ; but as a military post Gibraltar is of a very
high utility, and will be even more so now that the great
political interests seem to be concentrated in the basin of
the MediteiTanean. It is one of the links of that chain
which England tries to fasten between herself and her
establishments in India, and by means of which she has
already created a vast system of communication.

* After twelve o'clock. — Trans.

216 APPENDIX.

B.

Description of new Species of Plants found in Gibraltar.

Brassica papillaris. Radice perenni, foliis omnibus
radicalibus pinnatifidis, lobis dentatis, ad nervos et mar-
ginem praecipue papillis albis subspinosis basi dilatatis
scaberrimis, caule jam a basi ramoso, iisdem papillis retror-
sis subremotis hirto, floribus flavis, sepalis subclausis,
siliquis erecto-patulis pedicellum hirtum paulo superanti-
bus glaberrimis compressis subtorulosis rostro conico 1-
spermo duplo longioribus, valviilariim nervo medio valido.
Br. cheiranthiflora, De C, habet folia lyrata, flores duplo
majores, siliquas teretes rostro brevi munitas. Br.
Tournefortii, G., habet folia lyrato-pinnatifida, flores
albo-violaceos duplo minores, pedunculos siliquis latis
longissimisque quadruple breviores. Br. Valentina, De C,
siliquis teretibus rostro crasso brevi obtuso munitis : et
Br. IcBvigata, Lag.^ siliquis longioribus, caulibus glabris,
foliisque multo magis divisis difFerunt. Planta insuper ab
omnibus scabritie distinctissima. — Boiss.

Hab. in declivibus arenosis maritimis Gibraltariae, orien-
tera versus.

Silene Gihraltarica. Rhizomate suffruticoso, foliis ra-
dicalibus ovato-spathulatis in petiolum attenuatis apice
obtusissimis mucronulatis, pubescentia brevissima densa
velutinis subcarnosis violaceo-viridibus, caulinis paucis
sublinearibus, caulibus 6—7 poUicaribus parte superiore
glabris, panicula 7 — 8 flora abbreviata, calycibus longissi-
mis cylindricis sub fine antlieseos clavatis purpurascenti-
bus 10. Nerviis velutinis, apice breviter 5-dentatis,
dentibus margine scariosis, petalorum limbo ad tertiam par-
tem bifido ecoronato, pallide violaceo-griseo. E sectione

APPENDIX. 217

S.fruticos(B, L.yCt velutin<B, Pourr. Crescit in praeruptis ru-
pium Gibraltariae orientem versus cum S.velutind. — Boiss.

Cerastium Gihraltaricum. Caudiculis prostratris elon-
gatis basi nudis, caulibus ascendentibus foliisque breviter
hirto-glandulosis, foliis lineari-lanceolatis pollicaribus et
ultra subrecurvis acinaciformibus viridibus, bracteis mini-
mis parte superiore scariosis, pedicellis viscidis semper
erectis, sepalis oblongis obtusiusculis margine et apice
scariosis, petalis magnis usque ad tertiam partem bifidis
eximie plicato-striatis, capsulis calyce duplo longioribus,
dentibus brevibus obtusis rectis margine subrevolutis.
Viscositate, foliis multo longioribus glabrescentibus subre-
curvis, sepalis ovatioribus, petalis magnis plicatis, ab
omnibus varietatibus C. repentis mihi videtur distinctum.
— Boiss.

Hab. in rupibus Gibraltariae ubi Junio florentem legi.

Obs. — Grenier makes this species only a variety of the
C. glomeratum.

Ononis Gihraltarica. SufFruticulosa, caulibus hirtulis
erectis ramosis, foliis glabrescentibus viscosis trifoliatis,
foliolis lineari-lanceolatis acute serratis, stipula ad medium
usque bifida dentibus subulatis, pedicellis unifloris flora
duplo longioribus viscosis paulo infra florem arista obtusa
bilineari munitis, floribus fere magnitudine On. natricis,
luteis venosis glabris, vexillo rotundo subemarginato cari-
nam superante, leguminibus pendulis rectis hirtulis sub-
pollicaribus. Species On. longifolice, TV., Canariensi,
cujus mala specimina vidi affinis ab ea mihi differre vide-
tur foliis brevioribus argutius serratis, stipulis brevioribus,
floribus fere duplo majoribus, vexillo rotundo emarginato
nee ovali acutiusculo. — Boiss.

Hab. in arenis maritimis Gibraltariae orientem versus.
Florcs odorem suavissimum spirant.

218 APPENDIX.

Thymus Willdenowii. Th. Mrtus, Willd. En. Ber, f
nee aliorum. Procumbens, ramis floriferis adscendentibus
hirtis, foliis subsessilibus, inferioribus lineari-lanceolatis
subrevolutis, floralibus majoribus ovatis, omnibus acutis
utrinque hirtis margine ciliatis, capitulis cylindricis ap-
proximatis, calycibus albo-ciliatis, labii superioris dentibus
ovato-lanceolatis acutis, inferioris subulatis, corolla rosea
glabra. Ex descriptione brevi Willdenowiana hue meam
plantam retuli. Omnino distincta est a Th. striato, Benth.
Zygi. Sihth. planta majore robustiore quae folia habet
rigida subspathulata eximie nervosa basi ciliata, floralia
angustiora, dentesque calycinos superiores latiores, omnes
rigidos subspinosos. — Boiss.

Iris Jllifolia, Boiss. (tab. clxx.). /. radice bulbosa, foliis
canaliculatis setaceo-filiforraibus flexuosis scapum uni-
rarius biflorum aequantibus, spathis amplis concavis striatis
acuminatis margine membranaceis perigonii violacea-pur-
purei tubo limbum dimidium ajquante, laciniis exterioribus
ad medium angustatis apice subspathulatis intus vitta lutea
notatis interioribus breviter bidentatis, capsula obtusa
acute trigona.

Bulbus magnitudine nucis parva? vaginis numerosis ru-
fescentibus e fibris parallelis constantibus tectus. Caulis
pedalis aut bipedalis foliosus teres. Folia glabra pallide
virentia basi in vaginam striatam dilatata dein filiformia
canaliculato-convoluta flexuosa sospe bipedalia aut etiam
longiora caulem sequantia aut superantia. Folia superiora
reducta ad spathas concavas oblongo-lanceolatas acutissi-
maslongitudinaliter plicato-striatas membrana angusta alba
integerrima marginatas virescenti-albidas. Flos tubo semi-
pollicem aut pollicem longo anguloso perigonio circiter
dimidio breviori stipitatus. Perigonii segmenta subaequa-
lia exteriora basi attenuata, supra mediam paululum
angustata, apice reflexa spathulato-rotundata, intense pur-

APPENDIX. 219

pureo-violescentia et tenuissime striata intus vitta lata
lutescente ad apicem usque non producta notata. Seg-
menta interiora erecta lanceolata basi attenuata acuta,
breviter bidentata margine crenulata, omnino purpureo-
violacea. Stigmata profunde biloba, lobis subincurvis lau-
ceolatis acutiusculis crenulatis, purpurea, parte inferiori
linea media flavescenti notata. Antherae filamentis paulo
longiores. Capsula intra spatham stipitata linearis acute
trigona obtusa, pollicaris aut sesquipollicaris. Tubus
perigonii supra capsulam articulatus marcescens deci-
duus. — Boiss,

" Ce bel Iris est voisin de Tespece precedente et de
ri. Lusitanica, Ker. — Bot. Mag., tab. 679. L'l. Xiphium
s'en distingue par ses fleurs bleues, ses petales exterieurs
bien plus attenues a la base, le second par sa fleur jaune ;
tons deux par le tube de leur perigone entierement nu
dans le second et quatre fois plus large. L'l. juncea,
Desf., Atl., tab. 4, ressemble aussi a notre esp^ce, mais
le tube de son perigone est bien plus allonge et surpasse
en longueur le limite qui est entirerement jaune, et dont les
lames sont plus larges et plus arrondees au sommet,
retrecies tout d'un coup en onglet a la base ; ses feuilles
sont aussi moins etroites." — Boiss.

Poterium mauritanicum, Boiss. P. foliolis foliorum
inferiorum ovatis superiorum ovato-lanceolatis, omnibus
profunde serratis dentibus acutis, spicis ovato-cylindricis
fructibus ovatis acutis quadricostatis, costis parum ele-
vatis, inter costas verrucosae papillosis. — Boiss.

ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA.

After Lythrum flexuosum, add

Hab. South of Europe. Africa.

After Plantago major, add

Hab. Europe. North of Africa.

After Euphorbia medicaginea, add

Hab. South of Spain. North of Africa.

After Silene villosa, add

Hab. Portugal, South of Spain. Balearic Isles. Egypt.

In p. 8, for clay-shale, read clay, shale.

In p. 14, add to the list of fossils, cave-bear and fossil elephant
(Smith of Jordan-hill).

In p. 38, for to the public, read of the public.

In p. 68, for Aristolochia, read Smilax.

In p. 179, /or riety, read variety.

Ditto, for Scilla vernalis, read S. campanulata ?

In p. 186, for dead, read deadly.

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