I III THE FLOEAL WORLD GAKDEN GUIDE. VOLUME VII. LONDON: GKOOM BRIDGE AND SONS, •6, PATEBNOSTER EOW. 1864. «y> 'h«mu». p*¥H lONroN- INDEX. Abronia pulchella and melli- fera, 183 Abutilon insigne, 14 ; A. striatum, 86 Abelia floribunda, 131 Acacia, greenhouse species of, 34 Acacias, 255 Acacia corymbosa, 254 Acer Wageneri laciniaturn, 270 Acinadenia tetragona, 183 Acronychia C'unninghamii, 183 Actinotus belianthi, 86, 183 Adamia versicolor, 183 Adenandra fragrans, 183 ; A. fragrans nniflora and amoena, 131 Adesmia viscosa, 183, 208, 231 Adiantum cuneatum, 145 Adianturns for Wardian cases, 191 Adoxa, the genus, 7 A hint to beginners, 137 Ajuga reptaus purpurascens as a bedder, 69 Aloe species, 183 Alona obtusa and rostrata, 183 Aloysia citriodora, 184 Alstrgemeria aurea, 184 Amaranthus bicolor and me- lancholicus as bedders, 69 Amaryllis, growing, 18 ; A. belladonna, 257 Amellus lychnitis, 184 Amplucoma arguta, 184 An appeal, 17 Anacampseros species, 184 Anacharis alsinastruni, water thyme, 38 Anagallis linifolia, 184 Andersonia sprengelioides, 14 Andromeda floribunda and pulverulenta, 110 ; A. phylly rose folia, 278 Androcymbium melanthoi- des, 184 Andromeda speciosa, 184 Angophora cordifolia, 208 Anisomeles furcata, 208 Anomatheca cruenta, 184 Anthericium hirsutum, 18 i Anthocercis viscosa, 86 Anthyllis tragacanthoides, 131 Aotus incana, 110 Aphelexis species, 131 Apple trees, planting, 5 Araliacete, 7 Arctotis decumbens, 208 Ardisia, culture of, 163 ; A. crenulata, 164 Arts, ivy used in the, 7 Arum crinitum, 86 Asclepiads, 1 Asparagus, culture of, 234 Aspidistra lurida for plung- ing, 153 Asplenium bulbiferum, 41 ; A. flabellifolium, 146 Asters, cultivation of, 100 Asters for out-door groups, 263 Athanasia tomentosa, 86 Aucuba japonica, 79 ; A. japonica mascula, 281 Autumn planting recom- mended, 264 Azalea, greenhouse species of, 34 Babiana villosa, 184 Bseckia diosmsefolia, 184 ; B. virgata, 208 Banksia ericifoha and spe- ciosa, 208 Barberries in orchards, 5 Barren fig tree, 282 Battersea Park decorations, 199 Bauera rubuefolia, 62 Beaufortia latifolia, 132 Bedders for the million, 75 Bedding and bedding fash- ions of 1864, 67 Bedding and bedders in 1864, 195 Bedding plants, hardening, 90 Beds gay in winter, 65 Bee and her friends, story of a, 35 Bee keeping, 255 Bercheniia floribunda and lineata, 111 Berkheya cuueata, 63 Berry-bearing shrubs, 77 Bignonia capreolata, 111 Bignonia jasminoides and venusta, 208 Billardiera scandens, 208 Billbergia purpurea, 231 Billbergia thyrsoides, 27S Birds, usefulness of, 158 Blandfordia intermedia, 231 Blights in orchards, preser- vative against, 7 Borbonia cordata, 208 Boronia latifolia, G3 Bossiaea, greenhouse species of, 63 " Botanists' Chronicle," 65 Botany, Journal of, 65 Brachycoma iberidifolia, cultivation of, 104 Brachysema lanceolatum, 34 British polypodies, 221, 245 Browallia speciosa, 231 Burning -weeds and rubbish in orchards, 7 Ca?sia vittata, 132 Calendar for the month — January, 11 ; February, 36 ; March, 64 ; April, 82 ; May, 106 j June, 127 j July, 159; August, 178; September, 204 ; October, IXDEX. 226 ; November, 249 ; December, 273 Callistemon phceniceum and mycrostachyum, 63 Calothamnus clavata, ISA Camellias, 114 Camellias and other green- house plants, 40 Camellias in heat, 88 Camptosorua rhizophyllus, 146 Cantua dependens and bi- color, 63 Caralluma, 1 Carnations, tree, 254 Cassia corymbosa, 38 Cassonia, the genu3, 7 Caterpillars in orchards, pre- servative against, 7 Centradenia rosea, culture of, 115 Cerastium tomentosum, cot- ton plant, 89 Oestrum aurantiacum as a window plant, 234 Cherry trees, planting, 5 Chestnuts in orchards, 6 Chimonanthus fragrans, 278 Chironia linoides, 231 Chorozema species, 63, 110 Christmas gifts, 42 Chrysanthemum cuttings, 258 Chrysanthemums for out- door groups, 264 Chrysanthemums for plung- ing, 153 Cinchonads, characters of, 19 Citriobatus multiflorus, 278 Clematis odorata, 132 Clerodendron tomentosum, 110 Clithra quercifolia, 111 Clianthus Dampieri and puniceu9, 111 Climbing roses, 22 Cocoa-nut refuse for ferns in glass cases, 18 Coleus Yerschaffelti and Blumei, winter treatment of, 38 Colours, taste in their com- bination, 196 Conservatory, plants for a small, 89 Convolvulus scoparius, 184 Correa pulchella, 279 Correa speciosa and pul- chella, 14 Coronilla glauca, 254 Cotoneastermicrophylla,78j Simmonsii, 79 Cotton plant, 89 Crassula species, 184 Crocus, the, 248 Crystal Palace beds, 196 Crystal Palace rose show, an amateur's impressions of the, 174 Cuero guano, 87 Cupressus Lawsoniana nana, 270 Currants, 137 Cuttings in boxes, 39 Cyclamen albiflorum, 15 Cystopteris regia, 146 Cyrtomium falcatum in fern cases, 147 Cytisus Atleeana, 15 ; C. filipes, 34 Cytisus Atleeana and Ever- estiana, 279 Cytisus nubigenus and lani- ger, 110 Daphne Japonica and rubra, 15; D. Indica, 279 Datura floribunda, 90 ; D. Waymaunii, 110 ; D. lutea, 231 Deutzias, summer treatment of, 162 Dielytra spectabilis, 34 ; D. spectabilis seed, 186 Dillwynia juniperina, 111 Diosma longiflora, 132 Dionaea muscipula, 208 Diosma subulata, 111 Diplacus glutinosus, 111 Disporum flavum, 231 Drimia altissima and lanceo- lata, 231 Dumasiapubescens, 231 Dyckia altissima, 231 Earwig traps, 177 Echium giganteum, 110 ; E. fastuosum, 279 Echeveria Scheeri, 279 England's workshops, 35 Epacris, greenhouse species of, 15 ; culture of, 91 ; species, 91 ; propagation, 93 ; E. nivalis, 279 Ericas, 34 Erica Hibbertiana, 132 Euchilus obcordatus, 111 Eutasia pungens, 111 Fernery, forming a, 65 Ferns, a selection of, 105, 126 Ferns from the Cape of Good Hope, 210 Ferns, greenhouse, 164 Ferns in glass cases, cocoa nut refuse for, 18 Ferns, native places of, 18 Fern3 raised from spores, 90 Ferns, the common polypody, 49 ; varieties, 53 Fertilization of fruits in houses and pits, 99 Figs in vineries and 134 Filbert culture, 257 Filberts, planting, 5 Flower for sun and shade, 210 Foliage masses in geometric gardens, 72 Fortune's yellow rose, 8S Fruits, fertilization of, 99 Fruit trees, summer pinch- ing, 136 Fruit trees, wash for the bark of, 7 Fuchsia Dominiana, 15 Fuchsias for out-door groups, 262 Garden Guide for January, 11 ; February, 31 ; March, 59 ; April, 83 ; May, 106 ; June, 127 ; July, 159 ; August, 178 ; September, 204; October, 226; No- ^vember, 249; December, 273 Garden Oracle, 16 Garden work, memory tab- lets of, 159, 209 Gardens, our public, 177 Gardoquia multiflora, 111 Gas heating, 82 Gastrolobium acutum, 15 Gastrolobium speciosum,lll Gastonia, the genus, 7 Genctyllus tulipifera, 38 Geometric gardens, foliage masses in, 72 Geraniums, classified selec- tion of bedding, 74 Geraniums Gauntlet and Crimson King, 15 Geranium Pyramid, 150 Geraniums, zonale, 258 Gesnera species, 209 Gesnera zebrina, 279 Gladioli not dying down, 18 Globulea atro-purpurea, 280 Globulea hispida, 254, 279 Gompholobium angustifo- lium, 111 Gooseberry caterpillar, 135 Gossypium JJarbadense, 279 Grapes, cracked, 257 Grapes, shrivelled, 232 Greenhouse, 17 Greenhouse ferns, 164 Greenhouse plants, 40 ZNDEX. Grevillea acuminata, 112 Grielum lasciniatum, 209 Grindelia coronopifolia, 209 Grindelia Lambert i, 280 Ground vinery, 112 Habrothamnus elegans, 112 Hakea illicifolia, 181 Half an hour with the Pla- tyceriums, 199 Hardenbergia Comptoniana, 132 Hedera, species of, 7 Herbaceous plants for exhi- bition, 90 Hermannia plicata, 279 Hibbertia flexuosa, 63 Hibiscus, culture of, 43 ; store species, 43; green- house species, 45 ; hardy species, 45 Hindsia alba and violacea, 110 Holly, 79 Hollyhocks, culture of, 39 Hovea Manglesii, 15 ; H. purpurea, 63 Hoya, species of, 1 ; culture of, 2 ; propagation, 3 Hyacinths, cultivation of, 202 ; selection, 203 Jacksonia grandiflora, 209 Jasminum nudiflorum, 279 Ivy, its uses in the arts, 7 ; horticultural uses of, 8 ; culture of, 8 ; on walls, 8 ; standards, 10 ; striking cuttings, 10 ; trees, 29 ; umbrellas, 29 ; pyramids, 30; bushes, 30; variegated, 30 ; propagating, 30 ; layering, 31 ; does it in- jure trees and walls, 55 ; species and varieties, 56 ; large-leaved green and variegated, 57 ; green- leaved climbers, 57 ; arbo- rescent forms of H. helix, 59 ; variegated climbing forms of H. helix, 71 ; synopsis of species and varieties, 72 June, work in the rose gar- den, 124 Kail, Golden Ball, 39 Kennedya prostrata, 132 Lagers ti'oemia rosea, 184 Lalage hovoefolia, 279 Lapageria rosea, 255 Lapland, spring and summer in, 16 Lastrea filix-mas, for vases Lemon thyme for garden embroidery, 232 Leonitis leonurus, 254 Leptodactylon Californicum, 132 Leucocoryne ixiodes, 280 Lilium auratum, 187 ; gigan- teum and Fortuneii, 188 Liliums, the new, 187 Lily of the valley, 135 Lobelia, blue, 38 Malva campanulata, 280 Maclura aura ntiaca270 Malvacese, natural order, 43 Manetti rose, advantages of, 264 Medlars, planting, 5 Memory tablets of garden work, 209 Mesembryanthenmm bifi- dum, etc., 280 Mesembryanthemum flori- bundum, 209 Mesembryanthemum species, 184 Meyenia ereeta, 280 Mimosas, treatment of, 186 Mimulus roseus, 185 Minute life, utilization of, 150 Microphylla roses, 185 Mirbelia dilatata, 185 Mosses, history of British, 16 ; selection of, 88 Myoporum parvifolium, 280 Mulberries, planting, 5 Myrsine coriacea, 280 Nareiss, wild double jonquil, 136 Neapolitan violet, 39 Nephrodium exaltata, 146 Nerine sarniensis, 281 Nerium oleander, 110 Nivenia spathulata, 185 ; N. spicata, 209 Notching and ringing, 37 Nursery propagation of roses, 268 Nympha;a species, 185 Oh ! the vermin, 132 Olea Americana, 112 Olney and the Lacemakers, 35 Orchards, on the preparation and planting of, 5 Orchard trees, choice of, 6 Orchids, cool management of, 270 Othonna virginea, 281 Oxalis laxula, variabilis, fra- ticosa, 280 Oyedsea buphthalmoides,207 Panax, the genus, 7 Passiflora cerulea, 132 ; P. Colvilli, 281 Peach, cordon trained, 136 ; double flowering, 63 Pears, upright espalier, 112 Pear-trees, summer pinching, 136 ; planting, 5 Pernettya mucronata and berry-bearing shrubs, 77 Periploca, 1 Phloxes, 232 Phylica pinea, 280 Pillar roses, 46 Pimelia decussata, 34 Pinks, 232 Pittosporum flavum, 280 Plague of the rose-grower, 268 Planting a new garden, 233 Platycerium grande in fern case, 146 Platyloma tenuifolium, culti- vation of, 97 Pleroma elegans, 281 Plunging system, the, No. I., 93; No, II., 149; No. III., 262 Polygalas, 255 Polypodies, British, 221, 245 Polypodium vulgare, the common polypody, 49 Polypodiums for greenhouse culture, 164 Pomegranate, 139 ; cultiva- tion out of doors, 140 ; cultivation under glass, 142 ; propagation, 142 Pruning the rose, 265 Ptelea pinnata, 110 Pteris cretica albo lineata, 145 ; P, tremula, 88 Public gardens, 177 Quinces, planting, 5 Red-hot-poker plant, 42 Reminiscences of an old fern-grower, 23 Rhododendron javanicum, 280 ; ponticum, 38 Ricinus rutilans, 209 Ringing, notching and, 37 Robinia pseud-acacia, red flowering, 270 Roman history, outlines of, 255 Rondelet, a French botanist, 19 Rondeletia, culture of, 19 ; species of, 19 ; propaga- tion, 20 ; treatment for flowering, 21 ; training, 21 VI LNDEX. Root-grafted roses, 265 Rosarium, design for a, 42 Rose Book, 158 Rose garden, June work in the, 124 Rose gossip, No. VII., 122 ; No. VIII., 174 ; No. IX., 242 ; No. X., 260. Rose Mount at the Crystal Palace, 197 Roses, culture of, etc., for bouquets, 266 ; climbing, 22 ; grown at Pinner, 264 ; varieties for present plant- ing, 235 ; best since 1859, 260 ; of 1864, 261, 211 ; of 1865, 261 ; reckoning with, 260 ; microphylla, 185 ; transplanting, 232 ; yellow, 257 ; insects ■ on, 113 ; pillar, 46 ; planting, 47 ; pruning, 48 ; ringing for roots, 37 Roses and strawberries, 37 Roses, phloxes, and pinks, 232 Royal Horticultural Society's fruit and vegetable show, 239 Salvia fulgens, 280 ; S. ges- nersefolia, 64 ; splendens, 281 Sedum fabarium, 263 ; S. Sieboldi, its culture and propagation, 4 ; varie- gated variety, 5 Sempervivum cruentum, 110 Sempervivum species, 185 Senecio, 257 ; Senecio species, 185; S. mikanse, 209 Services, planting, 5 Septas umbella, 185 Shady border, 40 Show flowers, selection, 65 Skimmia Reevesii, 78 Solanum Tweedianum, 284 Spirea Fortunii, white flowered, 269 Spring flowers, failure of, 135 Stachys lanata, 42 Standard Ivies, 10 Stapelia, 1 Statice Holfordii, 281 Stenochilus viscosus, 281 Struthiola ovata, 110 Strawberries, roses and, 37 Surrey, flora of, 35 Synonyms, Desk Book of, 35 Tallies, cheap, 81, 89 Thea Bohea, 281 Thuia orientahs aurea, 270 Torquay, climate of, 186 Tomato, the, 137 Trees, new ornamental, 269 Trees, does ivy injure them, 55 Tritoma uvaria, 42 Trichomanes radicans, 66 Tropseolums, 42 Tropaeolum lobbianium, 254 Try and try again, 16 Tuberose culture, 282 Tacsonia mollissima, 281 Veratrum album for plung- ing, 153 Vegetables, monster, 256 Vermin, oh ! the, 132 Vertical cordon, 112 Victoria Park decorations, 198 Vinca pusilla, 281 Vines out of the house, turning, 64 Violet, Neapolitan, 39 Walls, does ivy injure them, 55 Walls, ivy on, 8 Walnuts in orchards, 6 Waltonian case, flue pipe for, 114 Wapsburg, wars of, 16 Water scenes, 117 What are the new roses made of? 268 Wire-worms, 258 Witsenia corymbosa, 232 ; W. maura, 280 Xanthoxylon piperitum, 232 Zonale geraniums, 258 Zygophyllum cordifolium, 280 INDEX OF ENGRAVINGS. Diagrams illustrating methods of training fruit trees, 113 Hedera canariensis arborea, 9 Miss Maling's plant case fitted with rockery for ferns, 147 Pernettya mucronata, 78 Platyloma ternifolium, 98 Polypodium vulgare v. cambricum, 50 Polypodium vulgare, 51 ; other Bpecies, 53—55 Polypodium Henchmannii, 165 Polypodium laehnopdium, 166 Polypodium longipeso, 167 Polypodium phegopteris, 224 Polypodium dryopteris, 225 Polypodium Robertianum, 246 Polypodium alpestre, 247 Rondeletia speciosa, 20 Sedum Sieboldi, 5 Stand for fern case, 190 Water scenes, 118 THE &ABBECI §IJi©E, jANUAEr, 1864. CULTUEE OE HOYA. °\~WO of the species of Hoya, namely bella and carnosa, ^ have acq uired such celebrity, that, with but few excep- v tious, it is only in gardens where the means for their culture really do not exist that there is no attempt made to bring them to perfection, and indeed the attempt is often made where there are no means, and where it is consequently a sheer impossibility for the plants to live long, much less acquire perfection. Like many other subjects that require peculiar treatment, the Hoya may either prove very troublesome or "grow like a weed," just as the treatment is adapted to its wants, or the reverse; but it is imperious in its demands, as it is imperial in its beauty, and with Stephanotis and Man- devillea it takes its proper rank, as one of the most lovely of climbers for the conservatory and the stove. The genus Hoya is named in honour of Mr. Hoy, once gardener at Sion House. It belongs to the natural order of Asclcpiads, in which it has for associates the beautiful (and odorous !) Sfcapelia, Asclepias, Periploca, Caralluma, and other stove, greenhouse, and hardy plants. In the Linnaean system it belongs to Pentandria digynia. The species of Hoya are mostly natives of Java, Borneo, China, and the East Indies. One, R. australis, is a native of the country from which it takes its name. The general characteristics of the Hoyas are — climbing ever- greens, with dark green, smooth, entire, leathery leaves, the flowers, produced in umbels, having a delicate appearance as if made of wax, the colours of the flowers usually white, yellow, brown, or purple, and largely productive of honey, for which reason it is sometimes called the honey-plant. To grow the species of this charming genus to perfection is by no means difficult, provided the cultivator has command of the necessary conditions for success. VOL. VII. — NO. I. p 2 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Culture of Roy a. — The native climate of the Hoya indicates the necessity of warmth, and it is only in the stove or warm greenhouse that it can ever be bloomed satisfactorily. But it is important to state at the outset that what is known among gardeners as a "roasting" temperature, is not only not needful, but is positively injurious. In a house with caladiums, begonias, marantas, and crotons, the Hoya will be at home, and there it may have the coolest end, and should certainly be so placed as to enjoy plenty of sun. A rich soil is hurtful, never- theless it is necessary to allow plenty of root room. The soil for Hoyas should consist of a rough mixture of poor peat, silky loam, and small pieces of broken brick or tde, and siftings of the size of walnuts from, old mortar or plaster. Exact proportions in composts are of far less consequence than usually represented ; but to prevent mistakes by beginners it will be a good rule to use the ingredients in these propor- tions : — loam, 2; peat, 2; broken bricks, 1 ; lime rubbish, 1. This mixture ought when used to be sufficiently moist to render watering unnecessary for at least a week after potting. As peat is often dust dry in the potting shed, it will be well to moisten sufficient for the purpose at least a day before using it. But it must be borne in mind that this advice is not to be carried so far as the use of a wet compost, the object being really to guard against excess of moisture, by using the sod in such a state that water may be withheld for some time after potting. The season for potting is early spring, and the plants should be repotted every season. In performing this operation, take care not to distress the plant, but proceed in the same manner as in repotting camellias, cytisuses, and other plants that make firm balls of roots; that is, turn the plant out carefully, and pick away as much of the old soil as can be removed without damaging the roots. If the same pot is used, let it be well scrubbed inside and outside, and prepare it for the plant with fresh drainage carefully arranged ; over which lay some moss or fibre tern from peat. In filling in, make the new soil firm about the roots, and place a few rough supports about the plant to prevent any strain upon the roots in moving it away from the potting-bench, as it is well not to train in regularly until the plant has made a start. To encourage this start, place the plant on a bottom-heat of 70", give it no water for a week if the soil was reasonably moist when the plant was potted. At the end of a week, give a little water, and thence- forward increase the supplies, but cautiously, and when the plant has made a fair start, remove it from the bark bed or other source of bottom- heat, and train it for flowering. The best plan to train a pot specimen is on a wire balloon, which is a very simple operation, the shoots being taken round and round regularly. A neat trellis may be extemporized, by inserting green sticks round the pot, over them draw a wire ring, and tie that to the sticks all round, and mid- way between the rim of the pot and the top of the sticks, and finally draw the sticks together at the top, and tie them securely. The plant will soon cover the trellis, and then its blossoms are fully displayed. Hoya hella, coriacea, and lacunosa, being of small growth, are best grown in pots, but the stronger-growing species such as camosa, cinnamonifolia, and imperialis, may be grown in a bri^k bed raised to the height of the stage, and their growth trained THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 3 along the rafters, or on chains or wires, in which position they make a magnificent screen to shade caladiums and begonias, and show their flowers to great advantage. In adopting any other method of training, it must be remembered that the blossoms come below the leaves, and hence may really be hidden by the means taken to display them. We have seen beautiful specimens of H. bella so trained that the plant had to be lifted up above the eye, or absolutely inverted, in order to render its blossoms visible, which is to some extent a waste of labour. During summer the Hoyas require an average temperature of 65° to 70 . This may be allowed to rise to SO, or even 903, in bright weather, but an extreme temperature is to be avoided. As a rule shading should not be employed; the Hoya delights in sunshine, but if it is needful for the sake of other subjects to shade during mid-day hours in hot weather, it may be done without injury, but constant shading is decidedly objectionable. During winter Hoyas require great care ; damp is very injurious, and they cannot bear any great degree of cold. We know of many fine plants of H. carnosa, bella, and crassi- folia, that are successfully managed in greenhouses, where the tempera- ture never falls below 40' in winter, and that must be consi iered the minimum to keep the plant alive. A safer minimum is 50', and at that temperature they may be wintered with safety, if kept tolerably dry. The roots perish if kept for any length of time in a wet condition, as is generally the case with thick-leaved plants. Hoyas require very little water except when growirrg, and then they may have plenty. Propagation. — This is so easy a matter that it may be disposed of in a few words. Take off a few perfect leaves, and cut away the leaf stalks close to the base of the leaves. Lay these to dry two or three days, then fix them like cuttings round the sides of five-inch pots, in half sand and half peat dust, and place the pots on bottom-heat, with very little water. They will soon root, and when the roots have grown sufficiently, pot them singly, and keep them in heat till they form plants, which they will do the first season. A quicker way is to take short cuttings of growing wood, and treat in the same manner. The cuttings need not be covered with bell glasses. Species and varieties. — Those already named are the most desirable for ordinary purposes. II. bplla, introduced in 1847, is the most deli- cate and beautiful of all. 3. carnosa, with pinkish-white flowers, in- troduced in 1802, is a great favourite, and deservedly so. Of this species there is an exquisitely beautiful variety, with variegated leaves, called Hoija carnosa foliis variegata, introduced from Ghent in 1S50, and admirably figured in Lowe's " Beantiful-leaved Plants." H. imperialis, scarlet flowers, introduced in 1847, has a fine character, and is truly magnificent, being of vigorous habit, and for covering a wall or roof, a rival of the lovely Lapageria rosea. The other species are atropitrpurea, introduced in 1848, flowers brownish purple; aus- tralis, 18-0, white; cinnamonifolia, 1S47, straw; coriacea, 1838, of diminutive growth, white flowers ; crassifolia, 1817, white ; fusca, 1837, brown ; lacunosa, 1854, of diminutive growth, yellow flowers; ovalijblia, 1840, pale pink ; pallida, 1815, white. SEDUM SIEBOLDI. This plant has been so frequently re- commended in these pages, that we should need to apologize for introducing it again, had we not been fully per- suaded by statements in letters that reach us that many of our readers are either unacquainted with its beauty or with the proper method of its cul- tivation. Sedum Sieboldi was intro- duced by Siebold from Japan in 1830, and was for a long time cultivated in cool greenhouses, but being ultimately found to be quite hardy, it has gra- dually passed from the greenhouse to the rockery, and, consequently, there are very few cultivators who now know anything of its real beauty. The habit of this sedum is remark- ably distinct and elegant. From a central crown or " stool " a number of slender branches are thrown out, these branches are beset, at regular intervals, with fleshy leaves in groups of three each, and they continue to lengthen until some time in the month of August, when umbels of flower- buds appear at the termination of each. Well-grown specimens produce shoots averaging fifteen to eighteen inches in length, and the heads of flowers have a diameter of four or five inches. In every stage of growth the plant is a beautiful object, the leaves being slightly concave on the upper surface, and covered with a de- licate glaucous bloom. The flower- buds appear a long time in advance of the flowers, but when at last these open in the month of September, their lively rosy pink hue and sym- metrical disposition are remarkably beautiful, and contrast chastely and cheerfully with the peculiar tint of the leafage. After the blooms have faded the stems die down, and are imme- diately succeeded by a new growth from the root, and thus, if encouraged by good culture, a specimen will be- come larger and larger every year, and may be grown ultimately to colossal dimensions. This is one of the easiest plants to grow to perfection, or to render un- sightly ; it is not an easy plant to kill, 9but the killing may be accom- plished if persevered in. As directions for the culture seem to be desired, we will give, in a few words, the result of twenty years' experience and obser- vation. It requires a rich, light soil, and perhaps the best compost for a specimen would be formed as follows : — Turfy loam, two parts ; rotten dung, one part ; bricks broken to the size of hazel-nuts, one part ; sharp sand, one part. In this mixture it should be potted firmly, aud in spring, when the new growth is beginning to advance, the plant should be shaken out, a con- siderable portion of the soil removed from the roots, and be repotted in a pot one size larger than the last. It requires to be always under glass, exposed to the full daylight without shading at any season, to have abun- dance of water from April to August, ani at other times to be kept merely moist enough to prevent flagging. Many growers destroy the beauty of this plant by training it upright. It is really a trailer, and should be put in a pot suspended from a rafter of a cool greenhouse. It then acquires most graceful outlines, and blooms most profusely and perfectly because of the heat of the sun acting on the pot, and the perfect drainage it has in consequence of the impossibility of water lodging under the pot or worms getting in to disarrange the crocks. In watering, not a drop should ever fall on the ieaves, it should always be placed where there is no probability of injury by drip, and at all seasons it should have as much air as can be given it without exposing it to cold currents or frost. To propagate this plant, take little cuttings of the new growth in Fe- bruary, March, April, and May. Pre- pare them as cuttings by removing the leaves from the lowest joint, and dibbling them firmly into sand. If made early, a gentle bottom-heat will be required, but after March the cut- tings will strike without heat. The first season of growth from the cut- ting pans keep the plants in 60-sized THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. pots, and allow them to grow as they please. They may be put out of doors till the end of September, and must then be housed. The next spring shift them to 48 size, and as in this size they will flower nicely, they must never again lack the protection of glas3, as, when left out, the leaves the pot on which the trailing branches may rest in a pendant position. When tlie stools get too large for conve- nience of culture and exhibition, they may be divided with the knife, and every scrap that has a bit of root at- tached will make a plant. A beautifully variegated variety ^8 SfHF* SIEEOLDI m§ ^U< "®m® w ^ acquire a dingy brown hue, the deli- cate glaucous bloom is destroyed, and snails and slugs are sure to find them, aud add to the disfigurement. In an 8-inch pot a specimen may be grown to cover, when in bloom, a space of a yard square, if trained out by means of wires attached on the outside of of Sedum Sieboldi has been recently exhibited on the Continent. In this variety the leaves have a broad cen- tral patch of creamy buff in the centre, the edges of the leaves being of the same delicate glaucous green as the parent. ON THE PEEPAEATION AND PLANTING OF OECHAEDS. Orchards are portions of ground ap- propriated to the growth of fruit-trees only. Whea made on an extensive scale, they generally contain apple, pear, plum, and cherry-trees ; but a complete orchard should contain be- sides, quinces, medlars, mulberries, services, filberts, Spanish nuts, and 6 THE ELOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. barberries, also walnuts and chest- nuts ; ihe two latter are well adapted to afford shelter to the rest, aud for that purpose should be planted around the boundary at the most exposed places. The situation which is selected for an orchard should be rather elevated than otherwise, on a gentle declivity, and open to the south and south-east, to give free admission to the sun. and to promote a circulation of air, -which will dry up damps and disperse fogs, and by this means induce healthiness in the trees, and a high flavour in the fruit. It should, however, be well sheltered from the north and westerly winds, and if not naturally so by the surface of the ground, it must be ren- dered so by plantations, for which purpose the chestnut and walnut- trees already referred to will be w.ell adapted. In very exposed situations, and where there is plenty of room, a few forest trees may be added, at a little distance. That soil which produces good crops of corn, grass, or garden vege- tables, will also do well for an orchard. A loamy soil should, however, be pre- ferred, and a shingly or gravelly soil avoided, unless there is loam inter- mixed : a medium soil, between light and dry, and wet, and stubborn, will be suitable. If the subsoil is clay, the roots will require to be cut in every four or five years, to prevent them from penetrating too deeply. Pefore planting, the soil should be trenched two spades deep, and ten feet broad, where the trees are to be planted, and the subsoil should also be loosened, if it is not clay, which is best kept trodden down. If it is pas- ture land, it ought to be ploughed and summer fallowed, to kill the grass, as well as pulverize the soil. I consider ploughing to be more effective than trenching, as the latter operation turns the sod below, where it is a long time decaying, and harbours the grub, which frequently does mischief to the roots. The best time for planting on a dry soil is October ; if wet, the end of February, or even March, is pre- ferable. It will be necessary to sup- port the trees against the wind until they become well rooted. In plant- ing, endeavour to suit the trees as well as possible to the soil and situa- tion, and to plant them at proper dis- tances from each other ; this may be from forty to eighty feet, according to the size attained by the trees when full-grown. Fruit-trees, when planted too thickly, are liable to become blighted, and covered with moss, which is highly detrimental. Procure the trees, if possible, from a similar soil to that in which they are about to be planted, or rather more sterile, for trees « hen transplanted from a rich soil to a poor one, seldom thrive ; but if from a poor soil they are removed to a more fertile one, they will seldom fail. In the choice of trees, too much care can scarcely be bestowed : none should be admitted which have not good roots, fair clean stems, and pro- perly formed heads. It is necessary, too, to secure a proper assortment of varieties, especially of apples and pears, for much will depend on this : verv few of the summer kinds will suilice ; a greater number of autumn kinds should be chosen, and still more of the late kinds, as upon these latter will depend the supply, from the month of January to July. In gene- ral, a greater quantity of apples should be planted than of any other fruit. If the trees are planted in the quincunx order, and at a distance of eighty feet apart, the ground between them may be cropped, if thought proper. Ploughing, or digging the ground, provided it be not done so deep as to injure the roots, will serve to keep the trees in a healthy flourish- ing state, by admitting the sun and rain. If the spring, after planting, should prove a dry one, it will be desirable to mulch the surface, as far as the roots are likely to extend, with half- rotten dung, or leaves ; or it would be better to procure some turf, and lay it the grassy side downwards ; either of these plans will keep the ground moist, and save a great deal of watering, and when decayed they may be dug in, and will thus become beneficial. Trees that are of different sizes, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. when full-grown, should never be planted promiscuously ; but if the soil is favourable, plant the large growing ones towards the back, and the others in succession according to their size. In this way, when viewed from the front, they will have a very agreeable appearance, which will not be the case if they are planted with- out order ; and, at the same time, the more delicate kinds will not be liable to be injured by those which are more robust in their growth. When cattle are intended to feed beneath, the stems of the trees should be hit^h enough to prevent them from injuring the lower branches ; and they should be fenced in such a way as to prevent their bark from being injured by the rubbing of the cattle, espe- cially whilst the trees are young. If the surface of the soil is liable to become wet, it may be drained in this way : — Let deep furrows be made, from one to two feet in depth, and from one end to the other of the ground, between every two rows of trees, and then let the ground be sloped to the bottom of the furrow : if it is in pasture, the turf may be taken up and relaid when the furrows are formed. If the ground is natu- rally wet, underground drains will be required. Burning weeds, rotten wood, or any rubbish when the trees are in flower, might be found a great pre- servative against blights and cater- pillars. I would recommend annually washing the trees with one of the many mixtures which- are used. The following is a simple and effectual one : — Mix fresh cow-dung with urine and soap-suds, and after scraping off all the moss and cankered bark, wash over the trees with this mixture ; this will prevent the growth of moss, and lessen the number of insects, by de- stroying their eggs. E. Bbag. THE IVY. (An Abridgment of a Paper read before the Central Society of Horticulture.) BY SHIKLEY HIBEEED, ESQ., E.B.H.S. The genus Seder a is in the natural system grouped with Aralia, Panax, Cassonia, Adoxa, Gastonia, and other allied genera, in an order named from Aralia, as the type, Araliacece. Of the genus Hedera there are about fifty species enumerated ; it is pretty certain, however, as will be shown presently, that several of the so-called species are but varieties. The cha- racters of Hedera are — calyx with an elevated or toothed edge ; petals fire or ten, not calyptrate, and cohering ; stamens five to ten, converging o>- consolidated ; the berry five or ten celled. For general purposes we may classify the species as tender and hardy. The tender species are mostly shrubs, the hardy species are mostly climbers ; and with the hardy kind-) alone are we concerned on the pre* sent occasion. Uses in the Arts. — None of the ivies occupy an important position in medicine or the arts. Hedera helix, the common ivy, was esteemed more highly in ancient than in modern times. It was in high repute as a sudorific, and was supposed to have the property of preventing intoxica- tion, as also of restoring to sobriety those who had imbibed an excess of wine. Modern experiment has not confirmed the opinion of the ancients, and it appears that the j uice of ivy has no power whatever either to pre- vent or modify the effects of intoxi- cation. The leaves when bruised emit an agreeable balsamic odour, and are of a very unpleasant bitterish taste. The juice pressed out of the leaves is slightly stimulating and pur- gative, and a decoction of the leaves is now used in many country places THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. for dressing ulcers, and tlie leaves themselves are applied to corns. The berries have an acidulous, resinous, slightly pungent taste, and were once much used both as an emetic and a purgative. Bat though compara- tively unimportant in respect of its usefulness in the economy of art, ivy has no inconsiderable place in the economy of nature. The blossoms, which expand in October, are rich in honey, and are resorted to by bees and many species of flies. Occasionally during the mid hours of a sunny day in October, places covered with large breadths of flowering ivy are as vocal with the music of bees as lime trees in the month of July. The berries are the favourite food of many of the winter song-birds ; wood-pigeons, thrushes, and blackbirds are particu- larly fond of them. Lastly, the leaves are tolerably good cattle food, if given in moderation; and when cattle and sheep stray from their pastures, it is a common occurrence to find them browsing ivy on some ruin or waste. The fondness of cattle for ivy did not escape the quick perception of Shakspere. In the " Winter's Tale," act iii. s. 3, lie makes the old shepherd, who is presently to discover the " pretty barne," bewail the scattering of his sheep by " those boiled brains of nineteen and two-and-twenty." " They have scared away two of my best sheep, which I fear the wolf will sooner find, than the master ; if any- where I have them, 'tis by the sea- side, browsing of ivy." HoETTCULTUBAL USES OE IVY. — Among the uses to which ivy may be put, those of the greatest importance are the following : — To cover walls, palings, ruins, rustic buildings, to form dividing screens, and to clothe dead or living trees with festoons of evergreen foliage. For these pur- poses there is nothing more grand than ivy ; it is always beautiful, and it grows with such rapidity and luxu- riance that it soon hides the surface over which it spreads with glossy sheets of deep green verdure. If allowed to trail on the ground, it an- swers admirably to surface planta- tions and the sides of wilderness walks ; to cover mounds and knolls, and in fact to beautify the most un- sightly places, or add a fresh charm to spots which nature and art have already combined to embellish. It may also be grown to form standard, evergreen shrubs for the decoration of the terrace, lawn, and shrubbery ; and grown in the form of an umbrella, the ivy may be made immensely valu- able for the adornment of entrance- halls, and to intersperse among the seats and retiring places at festive gatherings. The arborescent and variegated varieties make superb con- servatory plants when grown with care in suitable forms ; and, lastly, ivies may be grown in quantities in pots, and by regular pinching-in be made to assume the form of compact bushes, and these, plunged in the par- terre with hollies and other ever- greens, serve to enliven the scene at a time when it is impossible to make an out-door display of flowers. Culture oe Ivy. — All the spe- cies and varieties are, without a single exception, most easily cultivated. The stove and greenhouse kinds will thrive in a soil consisting of equal parts loam, peat, and decayed manure. The hardy kinds will grow in any soil, and in almost any situation, even if so shaded and barren that even periwinkle will not live upon it. But it should be known that whenever a quick and luxuriant growth of ivy is desired, the soil cannot be too rich. In the culture of specimen ivies in pots, a light rich soil is essential to insure free growth ; but those with variegated leaves are apt to become gross in habit, and sutler deteriora- tion of the beautiful colours of their leaves, if grown in a compost con- taining any considerable proportion of animal manure. When grown under glass, the hardy kinds become long-jointed and .tender, so that if exposed to frost their young shoots are killed back ; and all the varie- gated kinds require to be pretty freely exposed, except during winter, both to keep them short-jointed in habit, and produce their variegated tints in perfection. Ivy on Walls. — The best ivies for walls are the Irish, H. canariensis, which is the most rapid grower, and, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 9 generally speaking, the most beauti- ful; the English, H. helix, in its ordinary form is very beautiful when it has extended itself over a large surface, as it bites close, and never fails to train itself. H. cordifolia and H. Regneriana, both with huge entire leathery leaves, make fine coverings to walls. All the variegated ivies not of arbores- cent character make beautiful screens for dwarf walls. At Messrs. E. G-. Hen- derson and Sons, St. John's Wood, may be seen specimens of nearly all the known kinds trained on dwarf wails, and most of them are so effective that it is a matter of surprise they are so seldom used in this way, their cheerful aspect during winter being one of their greatest recommen- dations. If it be de- sired to cover a large extent of wall quickly with fast - growing green - leaved ivies, plants of two or three years old should be procured in pots. The soil of the border should be deeply stirred and liberally manured with rotten dung. The plants should be turned out of their pots in the middle of April, be planted firm, nailed in regularly, and be freely watered from the time of planting till the end of July, an engine or syringe being used to sprinkle the whole of the leafage frequently. This treat- ment will assist it in " taking hold " of the new soil and situation, and the next season it will grow vigorously without any other aid than occasion- ally nailing or tying in a shoot that refuses to attach itself. Generally speaking, a little care the first season is all that is needful ; but if the cul- tivator wishes to make a display of his skill in cultivating ivy, let him HEDEEA CANABIENSIS AEEOBEA. vary the process slightly as follows: —Plant in rich soil in April, train in all the growth you can get, not with any particular regard to appearances, but simply to keep all the shoots up- right, even if several of them cross 10 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. each other. In the following April cut all the growth clean away to the ground line, and the plants will im- mediately throw up stout shoots. Select of thf se four or five to train out in the form of a fan : rub away all the remaining shoots. Never allow any of the shoots to hang away from the wall, as this checks their growth, and tends to throw them into a fruiting condition. The next season cut back all the trained shoots about a third of their length, and in the fol- lowing season they will quite fill up the spaces between them with their side-growths, and make five or six feet more growth from the top buds left at the former pruning. From this time forward cut back all the growth to a regular line with the help of a straight-edge, and remove all superfluous surface growth, so as to retain on the wall only one layer of stems. Our common English ivy is unsurpassed for beauty when treated in this way, and one plant is enough for a breadth of twenty feet of wall, which may thus be kept covered with a felt of vegetation consisting of close embracing stems and elegantly veined leaves. I must call your attention to a very important fact in the growth of this grandest of evergreens. We take a plant of, say, the Irish ivy, and train it up a wall ; it Forms huge leaves very distinctly lobed, and it never produces flowers, so long as it can climb higher and higher; but as soon as it ceases to derive support, and is thus prevented ascending higher, it throws out short side- shoots instead of long, whip-like branches, and on these short growths the leaves are smaller, and without lobes. Thus, whenever we see ivy in bloom, we find that it has attained the bighest point possible as a climber, and has acquired a new habit, form- ing huge bosses of luxuriant vegeta- tion, with leaves differently formed to those below, and producing myriads of flowers and fruits. It is this pecu- liarity of its habit that -renders it essential to keep ivy closely trained so long as it is required to run, as if the growth of this year is allowed to fall away from its support, or is torn from the wall by wind, the next season it will begin to form flowering shoots and a bushy head. Sometimes the growth of years is torn from walls by the immense weight of the flowering bosses at the summit ; but this de- struction of a noble object is easily prevented by means of a rough frame of woodwork fixed under the pro- jecting growth parallel to the top of the wall, to lessen the strain and the rocking of the mass during high winds. Standard Ivies. — The Algerian and Irish ivies makeno'ole standards, but they require peculiar manage- ment. Cuttings should be struck in pots in July or August, and kept in a frame or pit all the winter. In April, select only those that have plump, straight leaders, and plant them out in soil consisting of at least one-half rotten dung, and the other half good loam, well broken up to a depth of two feet. Keep them care- fully trained to upright stakes all the season, and give them abundance of water till the end of July, and pinch in all side-shoots to , two or three leaves from the base. The next April cut them back to the height of the intended standards; all-»w all side-growths to push, but continually pinch the side-shoots in, to prevent any of them acquiring a preponder- ance. At the same time, train out the shoots of the head their full length, to keep the vigour of the tree in the head. Cut back again the next April to within two or three buds of the base all the side-shoots and shoots of the head. At the end of five years these will be handsome trees. After that time the side-shoots may be re- moved from the stem a few at a time, beginning at the bottom, so as to form clean sterns, and the heads may be trained to any shape, or left to form flowering branches. 11 JANUARY, 1864—31 Days. Phases of the Moon. — Last Quarter, 2nd, 7h. 39m. morn. ; New, 9th, 7h. 46m. morn.; First Quarter, 15th, llh. 6m. after.; Full, 23rd, 10k. 3m. after. Averages for the Month. — Bar. 29-945. Therm, max. 44°, min. 33°, mean 38^°. Ham 15 inches. A very uncertain month; frosts and storms frequent. Prevailing winds S.W., W., and N.W. Range of temperature large. D Sun Sun Moon Moon Weather near London, Exhibitions, Meetings, Anniversaries, a rises, h. m. sets. Ii. m. rises. sets. 1862. etc. Morn. Morn. i S 8 3 59 10 52 Cloudy aud warm Circumcision 2 8 8 4 0 0 12 11 52 Fine but bqisterous Dr. Royle, Sec. E.H.S. died 1858 3 8 8 1. 1 1 21 11 35 Fine ; rain at night 2nd Sunday after Christmas 4 8 84 2 2 32 After. Showery Sir Joseph Banks born 1743 5 8 84 3 3 14 0 41 Cloudy ; storm and rain Radetzky died 1858 6 8 7 4 5 4 54 1 27 Cloudy ; heavy rain Samuel Curtis, F.L.S. died I860 v S 7 4 6 6 0 2 24 Fine French Army in Mexico 1862 8 8 -7 4 7 6 58 3 34 Clear ; fine Imcicm 9 8 6 A 9 7 45 4 54 Foggy; cloudy Nelson's Funeral 1860 10 8 6 A 10 8 25 6 17 Slight haze ; cold lst Sunday after Epiphany 11 8 5 4 11 8 56 7 41 Cloudy ; rain at night Hilary Term begins 12 8 4 4 13 9 23 9 4 Frosty ; cloudy L. Spallanzani born 1729 . 13 8 4 4 14 9 48 10 24 Fine but cloudy Cambridge Lent Term begins 11 8 3 4 16 10 12 11 42 Overcast and cold Oxford Lent Term begins 15 8 2 I 17 10 37 Morn J Cloudy ; brisk wind Mr. Beck, florist, died 1861 16 8 1 4 19 11 4 0 58 Cloudy and cold Hartley Colliery accident 1861 17 8 0 4 20 11 35 2 9 Fine ; rain at night 2nd Sunday after Epiphany 18 8 0 4 22 After. 3 14 Clouds ; mild Prisca 19 7 59 i 24 0 52 4 15 Dry ; storm at night Length of day 8k. 25m. 20 7 58 4 25 1 42 5 9 Stormy ; low clouds Fahian 2] 7 56 1 27 2 36 5 55 Fine ; cloudy Junius 's first letter appeared. 1769 22 7 55 i 2!' 3 35 6 34 Cloudy ; boisterous Lord Bacon born 1561 [1862 2i 7 54 4 30 4 40 7 7 Cloudy ; boisterous Professor de Vriese, botanist, died 24 7 53 5 43 7 33 Boisterous ; dry air Septuagesima 25 7 52 i 3 1 6 46 7 57 Clear ; baro. unsteady Conversion of St. Paul 26 7 50 1. 30 7 51 S 17 Fine bttt cloudy Day breaks 5k. 52m. 27 L 37 8 56 8 38 Partly overcast Peter the Great died 1725 2s 7 48 1. 39 10 1 8 58 Frosty ; fine and bright Twilight ends 6k. 40m. 29 7 46 4 41 Li 8 9 19 Overcast ; fine Victoria Cross instituted 1856 30 7 45 4 43 Morn. 9 40 Cloudy ; rain at night Charles I. beheaded 31 7 43 4 44 0 15 10 6 Fine ; rain ; frost Dr. Bevan, apiarian, died 1860 Probable Weather in January, 1864. — Likely to be a stormy period ; from the 1st to the 10th much rain, wind, and some frost ; from the 10th to the 18th much snow, wind, and severe frost ; wind generally N., N.W., to ~$. N.E. From the 18th to 31st almost daily changes, but generally mild, and sometimes fine ; wind S.E. to S.W.S. In the north great storms between 10th and ISth. THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR JANUARY. Kitchex Garden.— Take advantage of cpen weather to push on planting and ridge up vacant ground to the frost During frost is a good time to empty muck-pits and wheel out manures. When earth- work of all kinds is at a standstill through severe weather, some good jobs may be found in repairing fences, clearing up litter in the rubbish-yard, collecting rough ma- terials for paths and drains, and burning weeds and refuse. The beds for parsnips, carrots, onions, peas, etc., which have not 12 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. teen trenched up in November, as they ought to have been, should be done at once if the weather will permit ; after- wards, on dry frosty mornings, fork them over lightly with a steel fork, the constant stirring being very beneficial to the soil, and speedily rendering it in a fit state to receive seeds and plants. Towards the end of the month take advantage of fa- vourable weather to sow. Peas. — Dillistone's Early is eight days earlier than Sangster's No. 1, and there- fore the best to sow. Sow also the same sort in boxes or on a bed in a frame, in case the open ground sowings are all eaten up ; when the reserve will be useful to transplant. The best plan for a few rows of very early peas is to sow the seeds on turf- sods, laid grass side downwards ; the turf should be cut about four inches wide, and the seeds sown along the centre, and the whole regularly laid out to form a bed in a cool frame. The process of transplanting consists in removing the sods with the plants into the prepared trenches. As the plants are apt to push through the turf, it is best to lay the sods on a hard surface, so that when lifted there will be no damage to the roots. Advancer is the earliest mar- row pea, and will answer well to succeed Dillistone's and Early Champions. Wood- ford's Green Marrow, and Veitch's Per- fection will do well to sow at the same time to succeed Advancer. Beans to be sown in small breadths : Mazagans for the earliest, and Long Pods for a main crop. Those growing freely to be earthed up, and have a sprinkling of wood ashes to keep away vermin. Cabbacje of all kinds may be sown on a warm border ; the most useful to sow now are Shilling's Queen, Early York, and Rosette Colewort. Parsnips to be sown for the main crop. Choose a quarter well manured last sum- mer, and that has been laid up all winter. The Hollow Crown is the most useful variety, but in deep, sandy, rich soils, the Guernsey parsnip grows to an immense size. Saladings. — Warm sloping borders un- der walls facing south may be turned to good account now for early saladings, as, if the weather should be severe, they can be covered with litter, or kept permanently protected by hurdles of reeds or straw placed on edge diagonally, about five feet apart. On borders so protected sow early short-top radish, Hammersmith and Pans Cos lettuce, two-bladed onion, Golden cress, mustard, Normandy cress. Sow but small breadths at first, as some of the sow- ings may be lost ; and at the same time sow a few boxes of lettuce, to be placed in a gentle heat for planting out hereafter. The crowns of horse-radish, forced and blanched in the same way as we have recommended for chicory afford a very agreeable salad at this time of year, and in gardens where horse-radish has run wild and become a pest, it would pay to dig them now ex- pressly to furnish blanched saladings, the flavour being sweet and only gently pungent. Potatoes may be planted under warm walls as well as in frames, where they can be cover-ed with mats or calico lights. Choose hard tubers, and let them sprout in full daylight first ; the sprouts should be dark-coloured, firm, and plump ; if weak and blanched, they are of no use for an earlj' crop. Tree Onion, Potato Onion, Skallots, and Garlic plant at once. In damp soils shallots are apt to rot if buried, therefore lay them on the surface of the soiP, and let them root into the ground in their own way. The tree onion and potato onion re- quire a rich soil, and must be planted at from three to six inches deep, according to size. Fkuit Garden. — Trees not yet pruned will suffer, unless speedily attended to. Save any scions wanted for grafting by heeling them in at the foot of the tree they are taken from. They will take all the better for being cut some time before grafting. Fruit quarters that have been neglected hitherto, must be dressed, cleaned, trained, and put in order at once, for the buds are swelling, and every hardy tree is on the move. Make ready protect- ing material for wall trees, for we may ex- pect sharp weather just as the blooms ex- pand, when the wind usually sets in from the east. Apple and Pear Trees infested with moss or vermin may be much benefited by being painted all over with a mixture of Gishurst and clay ; or a mixture of lime, soot, and clay. If the painting is entrusted to a boy, take care that he applies the brush by an upward movement ; if allowed to brush downwards, many spurs will pro- bably be destroyed. Flowek Gakden. — Roses to be planted as soon as possible. In light soils, stan- dards will thrive better if some clay is dug in with the manure. Roses on their own roots need a lighter soil than briars, and will never thrive unless the ground is effectually drained, deeply stirred, and liberally manured. They should now be heavily mulched with half-rotten dung. If the dung is quite green and rank it will do as well, but thoroughly rotten dung is almost useless as a mulch for roses. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 13 Tulips breaking ground now are likely to suffer by frost. Heap cones of sand around them before the crowns open, and cover with mats on hoops while the weather continues severe. Evergreen shrubs bad best not be trans- planted or in any way disturbed for a few weeks hence. After December we prefer not to move them till between March and May, as the ground is now so cold that they cannot make new roots in it. Lawns that require renovation, to be taken in hand at once. There is no plan so effectual as a liberal sowing of good seed, which should be obtained from a house which devotes its attention especially to the growth of grasses and the selection of sorts fur various kinds of soil. New lawns sown down now will have a good turf by midsummer. Wall Trees may now be pruned and nailed in. Use shreds as small as possible, and prepare the nails by making them red hot, and throwing them into oil. Conservatory. — Let nothing suffer now for want of fire-heat. Forced bulbs ■will require warm positions, but heaths, epacrises, and other hard-wooded plants may be ::t the cool end. For succession now mignonette, primulas, violets, lily of the valley, Luculia gratissima, Poinsettias, Euphorbias, and Justitias, are particularly valuable. Keep the atmosphere pretty dry to prolong the bloom of camellias, azaleas, etc. Average temperature 45' by night, and 553 to 65' by day. Orchid-house. — Slightly increase the temperature and humidity of the atmo- sphere, as many will now be starting into growth ; but many will still be dormant, and therefore care is required, as these must not be hastily excited. As soon as any plants have made a good start, see to the necessary shifting and surfacing, using the compost in a rough state, mixed with small lumps of charcoal and sandstone. Greenhouse. — May have a rise in temperature, and growth may be en- couraged. Beware of damp, give liberal ventilation, and remove all dead leaves and whatever may be likely to encourage ver- min and mildew. Pelargoniums. — Shift specimens into their blooming pots, give a slight rise in the temperature, and keep near the glass. Ericas to be kept cool and airy, and fire-heat used only when necessary to keep out frost. "Bedding Plants must now be thought of, quantities of the several kinds deter- mined, and hot-beds made up for starting <>M plants for cuttings, and for the first batch of plants required early. Old ver- benas, petunias, Cupheas, Oenotheras, Tropajolums, etc., may be put into a steady heat at once to furnish young shoots for propagating, and seeds may be sown of Lobelia erinus speciosa if to be raised from seed, by which means it comes pretty true. Fuchsias to be looked over, and those wanted to bloom early to be repotted into small pots, and placed in a moist and gentle heat. Cinerarias throwing up their flower stems to be put in an intermediate house for early flowers. The most backward to be repotted at once, so as to make fine specimens for a very late bloom. Keep the stock clean, use sulphur where mildew occurs, and fumigate for green-fly. Give particular care now to specimens for exhi- bition ; remove small shoots, and peg down those that are best placed to produce a round and solid head of bloom. Azaleas coming into bloom must be kept at a regular temperature, and have plenty of water. Beware of urging them too rapidly, and place none in the stove until they have been first gently stimulated by the warmth of an intermediate house. Plants in flower will require a night tem- perature of 50', to rise to 60'and65Jby day. Those for late blooming should have a temperature not lower than 401 by night, and as much ventilation as the weather permits. Camellias. — These tohave similar treat- ment to that advised for azaleas. The whole stock ought to have been disbudded long since ; if neglected, do it now. Plants coming into bloom to be assisted by sprink- ling the borders, paths, and pipes occa- sionally to allow a diffusion of vapour. There is no class of plants that more enjoy atmospheric moisture, but as the blooms expand they require a drier and cooler air. Orchard-house. — The litter may now be removed from amongst the pots which have been so protected. If the trees look at all shrivelled, give each pot a quart of water, choosing a fine morning for the job. After severe weather the trees will be in haste to break if the weather becomes fine and warm. This should be discouraged as much as possible. Prevent, by freely ventilating, any undue rise of tempera- ture on fine bright days, and, if pos- sible, keep all quiet till the end of Feb- ruary. Forcing. — Strawberries in the forcing- house will swell their fruit grandly if the pots are placed in pans filled with fresh dung and kept always wet; the dung to be renewed every ten days. As soon as the 14. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. roots find it, the vigour of the plants will be increased wonderfully. If plunged in a dung-bed they will require very little watering at present. Asparagus. — See that the soil of the forcing beds is sufficiently moist. A beat of 55' to 60' will be sufficient, but it must not decline below 55'. Straw hurdles are of o-reat service to prevent a cooling of the bed during severe frost and north-east w inds . Mushroom beds for an early supply should now be commenced. Save, for the purpose, fresh horse droppings, spread thinly or in very small heaps, as the more slowly it ferments the better while collect- in<>\ Keep it dry, and when the bulk is sufficient, mix with it an equal quantity of road sweepings and dry chippy dung from the stable. Throw the material together to ferment, and if too dry sprinkle with water. Turn it two or three times, and then make up the bed, beating it firm with a fork. In seven or eight days it will be fit for spawning, but if it is then in a violently heated state, turn it, and leave it loose for a clay, and then make it up again, when the heat will rise gently and the spawn may be inserted. Small pieces, not larger than walnuts, are more effectual than large cakes, therefore the spawn should be well broken up. Beds in bear- ing must be kept as dry as possible with coverings of straw, which must be changed occasionally. Pits and Frames. — Cucumbers. — Bear- ing plants will require occasional watering with liquid manure, and as much light as possible to keep them in health. Remove male blossoms as fast as they appear. Keep the atmosphere moist; temperature 60 by night, 70° to 75' by day, 801 with sun shine. Sow singly in pots for succession plants ; we can particularly recommend for present sowing Carter's Champion, Cut- hill's Black Spine, Highland Mary, and Ipswich Standard. Choice sorts, may be kept on from cuttings to avoid the risk of deterioration. Plants that have been in fruit during the winter will furnish cuttings for succession, if the sorts are approved of for the purpose. Give air as often as the weather will permit. During mild weather, a little air may be left on all night, with a mat over the opening to prevent too cold a draught. Caulijloivrs are apt to die off now un- less kept dry : a little peat dust will be useful to sprinkle amongst them where they are suffering from damp. Dry sand and wood ashes may be used for the same object. If the plants are crowded, they will only kill eacn other, so thin atouce if necessary. Auriculas. — Remove the old decayed leaves, but in doing so be careful not to injure the plants. The plants must never be dust dry, let the weather be ever so severe. We mention this because during hard weather good collections are occa- sionally ruined, the growers forgetting how hardy the plant is, and how much its con- stitution is injured by drought. But be- ware of damp, and, during frost, avoid watering until a favourable change occurs, if possible. Capsicums, Tomatoes, and Ef/g Plants, to be sown at once and placed in heat. Use light rich soil, sow thin, and prick the plants out to strengthen as soon as they are large enough. Annuals sown now in pans, and placed in a cucumber pit or in a vinery, will make a good start for early bloom. They should be sown thinly, the pans should have plenty of drainage, and a libry soil should be used, so that in pricking them out they may be lifted with bundles of fibres with little injury. Mignonette is one of the most useful to sow now, as it will come into bloom by the time the weather is suffi- ciently genial to allow of the pots being placed in windows. The Californian sorts offer the gayest flowers for early display in the conservatory and drawing-room. Melons for a first crop to be sown at once. Sow them singly ; it is no gain in the end to have to divide them when several seeds are sown in one pot ; it is too great a check. Greenhouse Plants in Flower. — Abtitiliin insigne, Malvaceos. — Greenhouse evergreen shrub from New Granada ; sod, rich loam and peat; propagates by cuttings in summer. Winter tempc ature, 40' to 55 . The whole family is a favourite one. A. striatum very nearly hardy, and capable of enduring winter under a warm wall in the southern counties. The hand- some foliage and fine bell-shaped flowers are very attractive. Amlersonia Sprengelioide<:. Natural Order, Enacridaceas. — Beautiful greenhouse New Holland shrub of small growth, re- quiring sandy peat and plenty of drainage. Cutting- strike readily in a hot-bed. Pro- duces pink flowers in June in a cool house ; to bloom in Januaiy, should be well ripened and put into an intermediate house in October. Correit speciosa and pulcliella, Rutacece or Rue-worts. — Showy, scarlet flowered New Holland shrubs, requiring sandy peat and fibry loam. Gratidifiora, a rich crim- son may also be had in bioom now. They are very hardy, and bloom abundantly all the winter months with proper attention ; THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 15 cuttings may be struck if half-ripe slioots are taken in spring and put in sand over a gentle bottom-lieat, but they are usually grafted on C. alba, which is the safest and surest method of increase. Winter tem- perature, 38^ to 481; summer temperature, 55' to 75'. These are much neglected, but deserve to be grown wherever winter flowers are a desideratum. Cyclamen albiflorwm is one of the best of the Persicum section to grow in quan- tity ; they require very little care, and the chief matter is to give sufficient pot room and plenty of water. Slugs will always find them out, if they are in neglected houses ; and at this time, as they are coming into flower, they are often beset with green-fly. Any that want shifting now, through having been potted late, must have a mixture of turfy loam and leaf -mould equal parts, and one-half part very rotten cow-dung. Cytisus Atleeana is the best of the class to make fine specimens, but every variety of Cytisus is worthy of culture. Fortu- nately these do not demand the best places in the house ; so that they get sufficient air and water, they are sure to bloom well if in the worst positions as regards light. We stiongly recommend the raising of stock from seed as preferable to cuttings, and more easily trained as bushes, stan- dards, or pyramids. Daphne Japonica and rubra, are two most useful shrubs for early bloom ; they require an intermediate house to bloom early. Japonica is strictly a greenhouse shrub, but Odora rubra is nearly hardy, and may be kept in a pit. The only profit- able method of propagating these is to graft them on the common daphne. Epaeris nivalis, rubra, pwpzirascem, maxima grand/flora. — What would our spring shows he in the absence of these exquisitely beautiful shrubs ? Grandiflora and miniata are most abundant in their blooming, the whole length of their branches being covered with the hanging blossoms. The plants require considerable skill and care. Like heaths, they must have pro- tection from frost, yet be kept as hardy as possible, and have frequent ventilation. They must be grown slowly, and upon principles of which the grower should have a clear conception from the first. Soil two-thirds peat, one-third loam, no more pot room than necessary, plenty of drainage. After flowering, to he boldly pruned into shape, and a dwarf branch- ing habit encouraged by stopping and training. Fuchsia Domhiiana is one of the best to train up a pillar in the conservatory for winter bloom. The fine large crimson blossoms have a grand appearance in a house well furnished with flowering and foliage plants. Gastrolobium acutum. — A beautiful leguminous evergreen greenhouse shrub, from Swan River; flowers yellow and red ; average height of plant eighteen inches. May be raised from either seeds or cut- tings ; soil, peat principally, made very open and porous. Requires a rather warm house. Geranium, Gauntlet, find Crimson King. — These two showy varieties are largely grown for market flowers. For this pur- pose three-year-old plants are alio we 1 to run up to fne or six feet in six oreight-iuch. pots. After a short rest in autumn, they are set to work to furnish blooms from Christmas. We have seen houses of 200 feet in length occupied with Gauntlet only, the plants braced back to allow room for collecting the flowers, by means of ropes drawn tight the full length in front of them. In a private establishment these and Alba multiflora should be grown into compact bushes, as the best of all gera- niums for forcing. Hovca Manglesii. Natural Order, Legu- minous Plants, Fabacas. Natives of New Holland. — All beautiful greenhouse plants, requiring similar treatment to (Jape heaths ; soil sandy peat, fibry loam, broken char- coal, and pounded bricks ; no manure. Require frequent stopping to make good plants, as they make very long shoots, and soon giow out of shape. They are par- ticularly useful as spring flowers, because their blues and purp es contrast with the yellow flowers now so plentiful under glass. Winter temperature, 45' to do'. Hovea crispa, Genista congesta, Ileliotropium, Hermannia alnifolia, Jasminium ligustri- folium, J. nudiflorum, tree carnations, Cuphea platycentra, Erica hyemalis, E. Wilmoreana all in bloom now. 1G NOTICES OF BOOKS. A Popular History of British Mosses. By R. M. Stark. Second Edition. Rout- ledge, Warne, and Co. — This is one of the best of the elegant series of popular manuals originally published by Mr. Lovell Reeve, and to folks who love rambling will be in- valuable. Mr. Stark is a painstaking and experienced collector of botanical curiosi- ties, and quite a master of muscology. The plates and descriptions in this work will enable beginners in moss-collecting to name their specimens, and the introduc- tory chapters furnish an intelligible and faithful key to the scientific study of mosses. A Spring and Summer in Lapland. By an Old Bushman. Groombridge and Sons. — There are few among the new books "of the season" which bear about them such a freshness of life as this re- cord of the "Old Bushman's" Scandi- navian wanderings. At last "we hear something better of Lnpland than that it produces lichens and reindeer, for here are glorious pictures of its forests, fiords, mountains, mosses, and the'myriad crea- tures that inhabit them. For the orni- thologist here are some very new and interesting sketches of Lapland birds, and for naturalists and sportsmen of every grade some glorious reminiscences of woodcraft and adventure, and observation in a country unfrequented by rose-water travellers, and still beyond the range of Bradshaw and the electric telegraph. The Wars of Wapsburgh. By the Author of "The Heir of Redclyffe." Groombridge and Sons. — The title of this book is an enigma, and we doubt if it is right to give our readers a solution of it. We took it up, supposing we had a charm- ing story by one of the best storytellers of the day, and we were not disappointed, though the story proved to be very dif- ferent to what we anticipated. It is, in fact, a book of natural history, and the subject is wasps, the story of whose ways and means and instincts is woven into as jauuty and brisk and fanciful a narrative as ever was penned. The printing and embellishing of this book are in such exquisite taste that it must take a leading place among the New Year's gifts, and ought to be first on the list in making a selection for young people. lV3 Micmscnpe Teachings. By the Hon. Mrs. Ward. Groombridge. — This is a companion volume to " Telescope Teach- ings " by the same gifted author, and is in no whit a less meritorious performance, which is perhaps as high praise as we need bestow upon it. There are thou- sands of good microscopes locked up by their possessors, who in a fit of microscopy have bought the instrument, and then found the using of it too much for them. Let all such buy" Microscope Teachings," and bring out the instrument again, and they may say in the words of Blanco White — " Creation widens on man's view." Try and Try again. By Old Jona- than, W. Macintosh. — Those who have read " Try " by Old Jonathan will like this book, as carrying the record of personal experiences in the taming of men a few steps farther than they know of already. It is a good book for New Year's day, and any other day throughout the year, to tell of the world's needs, and the provisions of Providence for supplying them, through individual ef- forts which of themselves appear all but contemptible. Jonathan's pages glow with the fervour of true Christian love, though his subjects are for the most part dark and forbidding. One thing we learn from it, that man's vice and ignorance serve oft- times to give distinctness to what is best in man, as the darkness of night is need- ful to show forth the glorv of the stars. The Garden Oracle, 1864. Edited by Shirley Hibberd, F.R.H.S. Groom- bridge and Sons. — This year's * Oracle " contains the completest selection of plants, flowers, fruits, etc., ever yet published in any almanac, and a complete list of suc- culents to bloom every day throughout the year. We trust the efforts we have made to render this work worthy of the exten- sive circulation it enjoys will meet with the approbation of our numerous friends and supporters. Among the articles are a few hints which we believe to be invalu- able. The City Diary and Almanac, 1864. Collingridge, City Press. — A capital idea. It is the neatest, cheapest, most compen- dious, business-like, and complete of all the shilling diaries — neither too large for the desk, nor too small for a full diary of events and occurrences. It contains its money value of writing and blotting paper, and many lists of boards, committees, and other public bodies, not usually found in almanacs. A Portrait of Mr. Shirley Hibbfrd, F.R.H.S., has been published by Messrs. Groombridge. Price Is., free by post Is. 2d. — It may be obtained through any THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 17 bookseller. The sixth volume of the Floral World is now ready, cloth gilt, price 6*. Complete sets may also be had in cloth gilt, at 36s., in numbers, 24s. — The " Garden Oracle " for 1864 is now ready. It contains a list of about 5l'0 succulents, arranged to show their order of blooming throughout the year. Also complete lists of new plants, flowers, and fruits, selec- tions of florists' flowers, fruits, vegetables, etc.; numerous original articles on sub- jects interesting to all classes of gardeners, together with a review of horticultural affairs during the past year. TO COEEESPONDENTS. Catalogues Received. — " George Ed- wards, 1, King Street, Castlegate, York. Catalogue of Fruit Trees, Roses, Pelar- goniums, etc." One of the most useful and carefully-prepared of all the north- country catalogues. Mr. Edwards an- nounces his intention to sell all his spe- cimen pelargoniums, having discontinued growing for exhibition. — " Nutting and Sons, 60, Barbican, E.C. Trade Cata- logue of Garden and Agricultural Seeds." A capital trade list, priced for quanti- ties.— "Sutton and Sons, Reading. Au- tumn Catalogue of Bulbous Flower Roots, also Geraniums, Carnations, Fruit Trees, etc." An excellent list of useful bulbs, and a selection of the best gera- niums, fuchsias, ioses, etc. The list of fruits comprises all the well-tried and useful varieties. — " Spring Catalogue and Amateur's Guide." A very useful and full list of seeds for the kitchen and flower-garden, with excellent cultural notes and directions, calculated to be of great service to amateurs. — " William Dean, Bradford Nursery, Yorkshire. Catalogue of English and Fancy Pan- sies." An important contribution to the literature of floriculture. The present issue is not overloaded with novelties, none being entered unless of sterling merit. — " Butler and M'Culloch, South Row, Covent Garden. Autumn Cata- logue of Dutch and Cape Flowering Bulbs." A capital list, accompanied with short cultural notes. There are also good lists of chrysanthemums, vines, and other subjects usually bought in in autumn. Books Received. — "The New Zealand Handbook; or, Guide to the Britain of the South. London: Edward Stanford, 6, Charing Cross." Nothing could be plainer or more useful to the intending emigrant than the information contained in this little book, and indeed the general reader cannot glance at it without be- coming at once interested in the state of thearts and manufactures, the perils, diffi- culties, and comforts of the voyage there, and the various 'methods resorted to for living after the passengers have arrived. An impression of 40, OOOcopies having been already disposed of, will show how much this little book is already appreciated. An Appeal.— As we can always beg for others with better assurance than for our- selves, we do not scruple to make an appeal to our readers in behalf of a poor botanist whom adversity has nearly crushed, and to whom a little timely help will make all the difference between comparative comfort and extreme want. We make this appeal on our own re- sponsibility: knowing the case to be most deserving, and being intensely anxious to render some assistance, we think it right to withhold the name of the person, but the case may be stated in a few words. Our poor client is a man of im- mense experience among British plants, and has several times filled important public appointments as curator, botanist, etc., etc., at various public institutions. After years of hard work he finds him- self unable to provide for his family, and his friends are endeavouring to collect sufficient to enable him to take a shop, and make for himself a trade in dried plants and natural history collections. Many of our readers may feel disposed to assist him, and we shall gladly receive any contributions, large or mall, and to every contributor we will forward an acknowledgment, and the name of the person for whose benefit the money is collected. If this were not a most de- serving case, we would not obtrude it upon the notice of our readers. Greenhouse. — I have a corner in my gar- den, 32 feet by 30, where I want to put a greenhouse for the protection of plants during winter; in spring to propagate a few bedders, tender annuals, vegetable marrows, cucumbers, etc.; and, if a few vines and dwarf "fruit trees in pots" could be grown in it, all the better. I want to use as little firing as pos- sible, and the fire to require attention only morning and evening. Will you B 2 18 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. jilease give me directions to make a good, useful house for above-named pur- poses on the best and cheapest principle. The size I am not particular about, but wish to build it on the cheapest plan consistent with a good and really useful house. The house might have a division about the centre, and so keep one part warmer, say the end intended for propa- gating. By keeping the centre door open during frost the whole house could be kept free from it, and the cooler part would also do to harden off bedders, etc. with the assistance of a two-light cold frame. I fancy the glass would he best if put on rib rafters, if I may so call them, instead of frames, and ventilation could be given at ends of the ridge, or, if a lean-to, on the top of back wall. I may here say the house is my own, the ground about one-third of an acre, with probability of one-fourth more being added ere long. 8 ft. high: East wall 30 ft. Long. Ls Fist Tree. -a to at s S° £ »o Ci Wall. 5 ft. © 0 o W .30 ft. Walk. [With the space you have at your command it will be easy to construct such a building as will fulfil all your wishes. Cover the space with a double-span roof, and, as we judge from your plan that the corner you propose to build upon is contiguous to your dwelling, let the division be placed longitudinally exactly where the two spans meet; let the division most easily accessible from your house be so arranged that your orchard trees and cool greenhouse plants may be grown in it; and for purposes of propagation and general uses, let the other division be furnished with a hot-water tank after the model laid down in previous numbers of Floral Would, with shelves for pots in every available space. To ensure perfect safety from frost carry a four- inch flow-and-roturn pipe along the front of the green-house division. And to se- cure immunity from excessive moisture in the winter and early spring months in the other division, and warmth enough at all times, let the same four-inch flow- and-retum be carried round the front. Use Stephenson's copper boiler, or next best one of Jones's cylinders; glaze the ribs, and ventilate at top.] Gladioli not Dying Down. — This season has been so mild that my autumn gladioli will not die down, and the sum- mer ones are all shooting up again. We do not generally take them up, as they are never injured by the frost. What should I do with themt—A.B.S, [It is a very common occurrence for gladioli to keep green the greater part of the winter. We have sometimes forced them into a state of rest by taking them up with as much earth as possiole about their roots, and laying them in a dry shed till they withered through drought. Then the bulbs were cleaned and stored away. Lately we have had doubts if this was so good a plan as leaving them alone, and we really think you will have just as good a bloom next year if you let them remain where they are. Your fern is Polystichum aculeatum. Various. — Zeno. — Several correspondents have lately asked for the native places of various ferns, but we do not see how to spare space for such information at present, having so many demands upon us in reference to their cultivation ; but as we shall shortly deal with ferns in a more systematic manner than hitherto, perhaps we may be able to give the native places of at least all the favourite species. — J. Symon. — 1. Pteris aqui- lina; 2. Lastrea f. m. ; 3. Lastrea mar- ginalis; 4. Lastrea spinulosa; 5. Athy- riutn f. f.; 6. Lastrea recurva; 7. Las- trea Goldiana. "Moore's Handbook of Ferns," published at 5s., by Messrs. Groombridge and Sons, is profusely and accurately illustrated — it is worth its weight in gold. — Old Subscriber. — Your request for a list of ferns has been com- plied with in another page. The mosses demand a little more thought. — Gar- dener.— In the " Garden Oracle," of 1863, you will find all the instruction necessary for growing Amaryllis. The variety Josephine requires the same treatment as the other hybrids there described. — A. A.M. — We must refer you to the list of ferns in another page for the present, but we will keep your note in sight for a time, and perhaps give some other lists. Mrs. Hibberd says the cocoa-nut refuse is the best material she ever had for growing ferns in glass cases. If you cannot get that, provide yourself with good turfy peat. — T. W. — We begin to think it may be done, but on such a matter we must think twice before we speak once. the QABOSe GUIDE. February, 1864. CULTTJEE OP EONDELETIA. MONGr tlie most truly aristocratic plants that adorn our stoves, and give character to exhibitions, the Eondeletia and the Ixora have a very conspicuous place. Well grown specimens, when in their full blaze of colour, are in fact unique for splendour, and of the two, Ixora will always claim pre-eminence for beauty. "We might consider these two genera together, for they both belong to the same natural order, and they assimi- late very closely in habit and constitution. But experience has taught us that the less we associate different genera the better, when it is in- tended to give specific instructions respecting them, for as every genus has its structural characters by which it is distinguished from all the rest, so each has its special needs and peculiarities of growth, and fre- quently it becomes necessary to bestow upon a species more caro than upon all the other members of the family to which it belongs. We shall therefore deal with Eondeletia for the present, and defer the con- sideration of Ixora for a future occasion. The genus Eondeletia is named after Eondelet, a French botanist of the sixteenth century. It belongs to the important natural order of Cinclionads, the characters of which are — inflorescence cymose ; calyx superior ; corolla monopetalous, tubular ; stamens inserted upon the corolla, and alternate with its lobes; ovary inferior, two or many celled ; style sometimes divided, stigma simple or divided ; fruit inferior, two or many celled, dry or succulent. Linnajan system Pentandria monogynia. The genus occurs chiefly in America and the West Indies, and though closely allied to plants of the highest renown in pharmacy, appears never to have been applied to any useful purposes. There are about fifteen species of Eondeletia known, acd they date back to 1752, when R. Americana, with white flowers, was introduced. The other known species are as follows : — R. discolor, red, native of New Granada ; R. hirsuta, yellow, Jamaica, 1820 ; R. hirta, pink, Jamaica, 1776 ; R. VOL. VII. — tfO. II. c 20 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Imvigata, white, West Indies, 1790 ; B. laurifolia, white, Jamaica, 1824; B. longijlora, blue, Brazil, 1842 ; B. odorata, red, West Indies, 1836 ; B. paniculata, white, East Indies, 1820 ; B. racemosa, white, Jamaica, 1820; B. speciosa, scarlet, Tlavannah, 1830; B. thyrsoides, white, Jamaica, 1819 ; B. tomentosa, white, Jamaica, 1819 ; B. versicolor, pink,Veraguas, 1838. They are all stove evergreen shrubs, requiring care- ful treatment, and they are all worthy of cultivation, but the grandest of the series is the scarlet flowered species, B. speciosa, originally in- EONDELETIA SPECIOSA. troduced by the Messrs. Loddiges, through W. J. M'Leay, Esq., in 1830, and of which there is a strong-growing variety with larger flowers than the species, called speciosa major. This last deserves to be consi- dered an essential in every selection of stove plants, which cannot be said of any of the rest ; in fact, though beautiful and interesting plants, none but those who have accommodation for extensive collections need be anxious for many representations of the genus after speciosa and its variety have been secured. Propagation. — Eondeletias are easily propagated from cuttings THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 21 of half-ripe wood taken off close to the stem, and shortened to four joints each. These cuttings are to be planted in pure silver sand, covered with bell-glasses and plunged in heat. If bell-glasses are not available, allow sufficient space between the rim of the pot and the sur- face of the sand to plant the cuttings with their tops lower than the level of the rim, and lay squares of common window glass over; this answers as well as bell-glasses, and to prevent damping it is only neces- sary to turn the glasses upside down every morning. When bell- glasses are used, they should be taken off every morning, be wiped dry, and replaced, and in dull weather should be kept off a few hours at a time. As soon as the cuttings have rooted pot them off in sandy peat, and plunge in a brisk heat until they have filled the pots with roots, then shift to the next size, using sandy peat with one-fourth part of loam added. At the next potting use the soil recommended for old plants, to which also their treatment may be assimilated. Treatment for Flowering. — None of the Rondeletias will thrive in a temperature lower than 60°, and a luxuriant growth and abundant bloom cannot be secured in a lower average temperature than 70°. During summer the temperature may range from 65° to 90°, during winter 50" to 60°. The soil best suited to them is a mixture of one- half hazel loam and one-half sandy peat, to which add one- sixth of the whole bulk of pounded bricks. In potting use plenty of drainage, care- fully packed and covered with a layer of moss to prevent the fine earth running down amongst it. Overpotting is most injurious, and it is only by a regular course of accumulative potting, using at each stage pots only one size larger than the last, that a satisfactory bloom can be ob- tained. The best time to pot is immediately after they have done flower- ing, but if needful they may be shifted six weeks before flowering, but never on any account later. In the case of repotting old plants with matted roots, a little time must be bestowed in loosening the roots with a pointed stick, and removing some of the old soil from amongst them ; if the outside mat of roots is removed with a knife, the plant may not recover for a whole season. Pot firm and encourage new growth by gentle bottom-heat. When coming into bloom they require plenty of water both over head and at the roots ; indeed the leaves may be sprinkled three times a week all the summer, much to the benefit of the plants. Training. — Rondeletias are usually trained on wire balloons, in the same way as Dipladenias, and that method displays the blossoms very effectually. But as some sort of training is needful, we do occa- sionally see specimens tortured into indescribable forms, and the blos- soms consequently exhibited at a disadvantage. JR. speciosa major never looks so well as when its dazzling orange red blossoms hang freely and naturally, and for this purpose it is only needful to support the plant by means of stakes, or wirework, a height of eighteen inches, and then allow the branches to fall over and produce pendulous bunches of flowers. When in bloom the temperature should be slightly re- duced, and the blossoms will continue in perfection a long time. 22 CLIMBING EOSES. The rose grower must never confound together the idea of a climbing with that of a pillar rose, for the simple reason that they are very distinct in their characters, and to a great extent require different treatment. Climb- ing roses may be grown on pillars, and vice versa, but a genuine climber is not best adapted for a pillar, nor is a genuine pillar rose best adapted for a trellis or wall. But as the leading principles of their respective cultiva- tion agree in some points, and as for decorative purposes they very closely assimilate, there would be a strict propriety iu considering them to- gether, if we could afford room to do so, especially as the treatment needed by one would serve to illustrate and explain that necessary for the other. As a rule, fast-growing roses, of pendulous and rambling habit, such as Boursault or Hampante, for instance, make the best climbers, but these generally produce inferior flowers, though when seen en masse, their ap- pearance when in full bloom is de- lightful. But for pillars, varieties of the highest floral excellence may be choseu, such, for instance as Jules Margottin, or Mdlle. Haiman, and others, which bear inspection individu- ally, and exhibit characters consistent with the important and conspicuous places assigned them. Bearing these differences in mind, let us consider now the uses and abuses of climbing roses. The object first sought is to cover the wall, trellis, or arch quickly, but not with such haste as to prejudice the future well-doing of the tree. For all the better class of climbers, the first thing requisite is to prepare the soil so that when planted they will have every help to free growth. No matter what the position or the cir- cumstances in which the roses are to be planted, the soil should be deeply stirred and liberally manured some time before planting takes place ; for these roses are hungry, and if starved the shoots get hard in the bark, and are reluctant to make side-shoots ; and instead of making a vigorous growth at one effort, there is a succession of spasmodic efforts at growth all through the season, espe- cially after rain, that prevents the formation of flower-buds. But for Ayrshire roses no great preparation is necessary unless the soil happens to be a poor peat, sand, or chalk, in which case some good loam must be introduced at the stations where they are to be planted. In nearly every case of planting climbing roses, plants on their own roots are to be preferred. If not on their own roots they should be on short briar stocks. Some kinds seem to do as well worked as on their own roots, and for the first year or two grow quicker. I remember once covering a great breadth of wall with one plant of Grevillea, in three years, the plant being worked on a briar about six inches from the ground ; and another plant on its own roots, in a similar position close by, had not made more than half that growth in the same period, but after the third year there was no great difference be- tween them. Like other roses, they may be planted at any time between November and March if they have been pre- viously growing out of doors, and as many of them are precocious in their movements in spring, autumn plant- ing is to be preferred. But in any case of planting out of pots, if the plants have been sheltered or grown for some time under glass, it will be best to wait till April, and then turn them out carefully, loosening the ball of earth, but not stripping their roots entirely. It will depend entirely on the varieties planted how they are to be dealt with from the day of planting. Ayrshire and Sempervirens roses require very little pruning at any time, whether in youth or age, but Boursaults, Bosomenes, Teas, and Noisettes, require careful pruning to insure a regular distribution of the flowering wood, and prevent increase of altitude at the expense of growth THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 23 at the base. Any of these roses left to grow as they please will soon be- come mere bunches of leaves at the ends of long naked shoots. It is the business of the cultivator to prevent this. If the plants are strong when planted in autumn, tie them in sufficient to keep them safe against wind, and so leave them till spring. At the end of February cut them down to within two eyes of the base of each shoot, and on no account begin with more than three shoots to each rose. The object of deferring cutting down till the spring is to pre- vent the premature starting of the buds at the base, as if there comes a sharp frost after mild weather those buds may be killed back after having grown a few inches, which would be a misfortune. From the three shoots supposed to be cut down there will probably start eight or nine shoots. .Retain five of these, and cut or nip out the remainder as soon as you can determine which push the strongest ; the weakest are to be removed. Sup- posing you have but one main shoot to begin with, cut it down to three, four, or five eyes, and from these form the plant. Train in all shoots re- gularly, never let them hang about, or the growth will be checked and they will flower prematurely. When they are established they may be allowed to fall over if the position allows of negligent growth, and they will bloom tue more freely for it. At the next season's pruning cut back all the shoots, at least half their length, no matter what the length may be, and at the same time remove any weak, or ill-placed, or imperfectly ripened shoots, leaving a bud at the base if another shoot is wanted in the place from which a poor shoot was removed. The next season cut back to a uniform length, but not severely, all the leading shoots, and shorten in very moderately ail the laterals, and thenceforward prune very little, no more in fact than is sufficient to prevent crowding at any one place or the usurpation of the principal vigour of the tree by any one leading shoot. To keep a wall or trellis well clothed, it is needful to have an eye to the strong shoots that occasionally rise from the base. It will be well to allow one of these to rise every year, train it over the shoots that are already nailed in, and at the next pruning remove one of the old main shoots by a clean cut at the base, and let the young shoot re- place it. Arches and Trellises. — If the summits and connecting chains and rods only require to be covered, plant climbing roses worked on tall stems and train their heads over, and only prune sufficient to regulate the growth. For this purpose those of the Semper- virens section are invaluable; and as they retain their leaves till spring, you have the advantage of verdure in winter with roses in summer. When in bloom they are magnificent, the clusters showing from a dozen to forty or fifty roses each. The deepest coloured rose of this section is Princess Marie, reddish pink, the flowers nicely cupped, and produced in large clusters. The next brightest coloured is Bru- nonii, flowers of a lively rose, a brilliant object when full out, the plant less decidedly evergreen than tae rest of the family. The purest white of the race is Melaine de Montjoie, which has rich deep green, glossy foliage. Another good white ia Rampante, atremendous bloomer. The most fragrant is Bank- sicsflora, with straw centre, very double. But the favourite of the race is Filicite Perpetus, a remark- ably rapid grower, with lovely foliage, and myriads of little globular creamy blossoms. There are many others, the best of which are Spectabile, rosy lilac, and Myrianthes, with beautifully formed rosy-blush flowers, most deli- cate and graceful in all its aspects. Chains and low Trellises and dividing Screens. — When worked roses are planted to ruu over the summits of arches and temples, the low trellises and chains connecting the principal supports of the arches may be covered with Hybrid perpetual and Bourbon varieties, or with Rosa de Rosomeue, which is very vividly co- loured, and most profuse in bloom, though a poor rose when compared with any of the florists' varieties. Among the H. P. and B. sections, any of the vigorous growing kinds may be 24, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. selected, and of Teas, Gloire de Dijon, Amabilis, Homer; Adam, Frageo- letta, Compte de Paris, Devoniensis, and Marechul Bugeaud. Of Noisettes, Jaune Desprez, Ophirie, Triomphe de la Duchere, Aimee Vibert ; and of musk roses, Princesse de Nassau. As -the Teas and Noisettes are com- paratively tender, the Hybrid per- petuals and Bourbons will be found most generally useful for this purpose, and are to be preferred on their own roots. Banks, Teees, and Wildeb- nesses. — In wild scenes, and where truly rustic roses are required, the Ayrshires answer admirably, being of rapid wiry growth, and requiring only to be trained — if trained — the first season, after which they will take care of themselves, and festoon dead or living trees, ruins, gateways, and other rough elevations most gracefully and profusely. To start them well give every plant a square yard of pre- pared soil, consisting of good loam and one third manure, or if the staple is clay, break it up and manure it without introducing loam, and if they have but a moderate share of daylight they will grow in the confusion of a glorious wilderness, and make good hold for themselves wherever they go. Ayrshire and sempervirens roses furnish precisely the kind of materials needed for the banks of wilderness walks and for open spots in wood- lands, and to clothe mounds and knolls where mere weeds would be obnoxious, and choicer plants out of place. Let the ground be well dug over and manured, and then plant the varieties in masses of a dozen of one kind together, the plants five feet apart every way, and after that an occasional dressing of manure on the surface is all they require. Even that is unnecessary on good clay or loamy soils. Mr. Bivers tells how sixteen years ago he covered a steep bank of hard white clay next the high road at Sawbridgeworth with " Ayrshire and other climbing roses ; holes were made in the hard soil with a pick two feet over and two feet deep ; some manure mixed with the clay, after it had lain exposed to frost to mellow it, and climbing roses planted. This bank is, when the roses are in bloom, a mass of beauty. I have never seen anything: in climbing roses to equal it." (" Rose Amateur's Guide.") The cruel winter of 1860 killed all those roses to the ground, and the bank had to be planted with shrubs. But in the summer of 1863, when I walked over that same bank with Mr. Bivers, the roses were breaking through the turf in all directions, forming distinct patches of crimson and orange foliage, and now they promise to recover the splendour they possessed in bygone years, and, like the leather bottle, which "may fall, but cannot be broken," so these may show that they have such a vigour of life underground that though frost may destroy all it can reach, it is powerless to kill them outright. There are not many varieties of Ayrshire roses. The best for general purposes is Quee)i of the Bel- gians, flowers pure white, double, plentifully produced. Ayrshire Queen is the only dark one of this race, the colour purplish crimson, the habit less vigorous than the rest in this selec- tion, yet it is not wanting in vigour. Ruga is a splendid rose, the flower large and double, and a delicate pale flesh colour. Dundee Rambler is the most vigorous grower of all, an almost double white, blooming in clusters, and superb in its way when in full bloom, a splendid rose for a ruin or dead tree. Splendens is white, edged with red, and only semi-double, and is desirable only where many varieties are required. Wall Boses. — All the foregoing may be turned to good account on walls, but as walls are good positions, they should be appropriated to the best roses that can be had for them. I shall never forget visiting my ex- cellent friend, J. Brickwell, Esq., of Tottenham, who had the most perfect bijou of a rose garden 1 have ever seen, and seeing a great breadth of wall on one side of the dwelling house, which is fitted from the eaves to the ground line with a wooden trellis, completely covered with Jaundtre and Wistaria sinensis freely intermixed, and one mass of bloom throughout ; such a curious blending of fawn colour and bluish purple as one can only expect to THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. see once in a lifetime ! Bat I thought of this because I was about to remark how much better it is to have a wall fitted with a trellis to which the gardener will tie the roses instead of having to nail them, but instead of wood let it be stout galvanized wire run through eyelet hole nails. This plan preserves the wall, and is better for the roses than the nails and shreds. The most splendid and certain of all wall roses are the Boursaults. They grow fast, are thoroughly hardy, bloom in immense clusters, and are truly gorgeous in the display they make, but they don't last long. To grow Boursaults well, cut them down close at the first start, and after that merely shorten the seasonal growth, and thin out the weak spray and any soft or misplaced shoots, and they will never fail to be beautiful in their seasons. The Boursaults require a good soil, but the aspect is compara- tively of little consequence. The best of these is Gracilis, which is a rapid grower and of pendulous habit, with handsome foliage. The flowers are of an intensely brilliant rose colour. Inermis, bright red, is a lively rose and of most luxuriant habit. Amadis, with purplishcrimson flowers, is a favourite about London. At Sydenham it appears to come by spontaneous generation like an efflor- escence of the brick walls. It is a truly deserving rose, and superb on a pillar. In the multiflora section we have the finest wall rose known, but which unfortunately is only fit for a south Avail in the south of England, being unfortunately very tender. This is Laure Davoust, a rose which claims admiration for its lovely foliage and large flowers, produced in immense clusters, the colour a curious mixture of lilac and blush. Itusselliana, rosy lilac, is a trifle more hardy, but needs a south or west wall. Grevillia, or theseve?i sisters rose, is the best known of this class, and a superb rose it is, growing with marvellous rapidity, and if capable of enduring the climate, presenting a magnificent spectacle when in bloom, the flowers being in great clusters, and exhibiting various shades of rose and purple and deep crimson. I had a magnificent speci- men of this rose worked on a briar stock on the front of my house at Stoke Newington, which the winter of 1860 destroyed completely. It is a troublesome rose to keep or grow, owing chiefly to its habit of beginning to push very early in the season, and its utter unfitness to endure those sharp frosts which invariably occur in this country just at the season when " hawthorn buds appear." Banksian roses are of the same delicate constitution as the multifloras, but where they can be grown they are exquisitely beautiful. Travellers by the South Eastern Railway may in the season have a feast of these lovely roses by keeping a look out after passing Croydon, as at several of the stations, Carshalton especially, the walls are covered with them, and they grow most luxuriantly, and flower in dense sheets of white and yellow uniformly from head to foot. Banksian roses require a rich dry soil, a warm exposure, safe shelter from east winds, as they bloom in May when the weather is frequently as cold as in January ; and in pruning any long rods may be cut away, but the small side-shoots must be left their full length or there will be no bloom. If they produce gross shoots late in the season, cut them clean away in September unless any are wanted to fill up gaps, in which case tie the shoot down to as nearly a horizontal line as possible. This will check the growth, and tend to its more perfect ripening. The next spring it can be trained into the place where required. The best of this series is undoubtedly Jamie JPertn, with yellow flowers of good size, that is for a Banksian ; and Fortuniana, with double snow white flowers, also larger than the ordinary type of a Banksian. But the old white and less old yellow Banksian are beautiful in their way, and where Banksian roses can be grown without risk, these should certainly have a place. Lastly, there are some useful hybrid climbing roses partaking more or less of the characters of the preced- ing sections, which merit the attention of those who have occasion to use 26 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. climbers in plenty. Laure Davoust, classed above as a multiflora, is in reality a hybrid, though showing a predominance of the multiflora cha- racter. Ilenoux is a very showy crimson rose, which makes a fine covering for an arch or portico. Madame d'Arblai/, pure white, flower- ing in immense clusters, is invaluable for its beauty and rapid growth. It is almost a sempervirens. Wood's Garland, lilac and blush, sometimes opening white and changing to pink, is a free growing climber, producing fragrant flowers in large clusters, and in habit closely related to the semper- virens. Prairie roses are of no use at all. The Queen of the Prairies will succeed in a few chosen spots, and is worth growing, though of very poor quality ; but as it cannot be recom- mended fur general use, and is quite unfit for the ordinary wear and tear to which roses must submit in this country, we can afford to dismiss it with the rest of its race, as unworthy of further notice. REMINISCENCES OF AX OLD EERN-GEOWER. When the blinds are drawn, the lamp lit, and the fire burning bonnily, what so pleasant, on one of these long win- ter nights, as to turn back a few of the pages of one's life, and recall some of the incidents of years which have long since passed away. I am afraid I of- ten indulge in these reminiscences, and get so absorbed by my own thoughts that the fire might die out upon the hearth, the lamp go untrimmed, and the clock point to hours when one ought to be quietly stowed away in bed, were it not for a loving voice which calls one back to the realities of the present. I was last evening thinking over the progress which has been made since I was a boy in fern- growing, and as, perchance, some of those wandering thoughts which came into my head might have a trifle of interest for others, I will jot down a few of them. Let me see — what was it that set me a-thinking ? Oh, Irecollect now, I had been carelessly turning over the pages of an old copy of Loudon's " Hortus Britannicus," when my eye happened to fall upon the name of the last new fern I had added to my col- lection— the little North American Xiphopteris serrulata. Curiosity led me to look down the list a little more closely. The book was published in 1830, and I found that about 370 ferns were enumerated as being then in cultivation. Doubtless they had been all introduced alive, and had for a time been grown, but how many of them had been lost before the revived taste for these plants had arisen ? I should think we might safely aver that half of them had been allowed to perish, and have needed to be again imported. Some of the names in- cluded in that list are those of the rarest ferns we have at the present day. How many specimens are there in the country, except that splendid one at Kew, of that noble Pteris (or as we should call it now-a-days, Litobrochia) podophylla? Gymno- gramma trifoliata, that distinct, tall growing. Epilobium-like,West Indian fern which we recollect being intro- duced as a great novelty from Jamaica about five or six years ago, is down in the list. And so is Dick- sonia arborpscens, a rare tree-fern from St. Helena, which few collec- tions can boast of even now. Five species of Gieichenia are mentioned as having been introduced between 1822-4 ; they may be found in most good gardens now, but ten or twelve years ago I would have walked twenty miles to have seen one. There are some plants down in that list which it would be pleasant to find once more generally grown ; there are, perhaps, in the whole family no two genera of greater interest than Lindseea and Schizeea, there are five or six species of each of these men- THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 27 tioned. A" few beautiful Lindsseas were shown in London last year, and among the greatest rarities at a few of the leading gardens a species or two of Schizaja may be found. It is with ferns as with flowering plants, our fathers, thirty years ago, grew many beautiful plants which we could not obtain in any nursery now, though we gave our ears for them. There was an outcry some fifteen or sixteen years ago about " selections versus collections," and though no reasonable man can say there was no need for it, yet it indirectly did a vast amount of harm, for many plants which, if properly cultivated, would be perfect gems, were thrown away among those which were more truly denominated weeds. Cromwell's army did a good deal of good, gained for us advantages we should perhaps never have otherwise enjoyed, but that army did its work very roughly, and gave us reason to regret much that can never be undone, and destroyed much that cannot be replaced. Thus was it with that revolutionary edict which went forth anent selections and collections. Weeding out our houses gave room for the better cultivation of the plants which were left, and so did good; but among the rejected plant* were many which our nursery- men have found it worth their while to send collectors into far away cor- ners of the earth to obtain, and which we now gladly buy again at high prices, and many of the younger ones among us look upon as " new and rare plants." But what have I been talking about? I fear I must have fallen asleep, and been dreaming. To re- turn from this digression, let us have another look at Loudon. How many varieties of the British ferns does he enumerate. Of Athyrium filix-foc- mina, none ; of Lastrea fiiix-mas. none ; of Scolopendrium, four ! Ah, now-a-days collections have got a little the best of selections in this point at least, and I for one am not a little glad of it. And yet our collec- tions are, after all, to a certain ex- tent, selections ; for onlyr the most distinct and well-marked kinds are grown. Here upon the table is the list of varieties of hardy ferns grown by the well-known Mr. Sim, of Foot's Cray ; but I am not going to dip into it, for probably you know as well as I do how numerous and how distinct those varieties are, If you do not know, you have a great treat in store, and 1 envy you the pleasure with which you will run down to Foot's Cray the next time you have a few hours to spare. It is not only among British ferns that we have gone aaead of late years ; it is the same in every divi- sion of the family. Have you any idea how largely the living stems of tree-ferns are now imported ? It is no exaggeration to say that one ship will sometimes bring hundreds of them, all packed among shavings or straw, in roughly made cases, more like crates than boxes. The fact is, if the boxes be too well made, the stems are likely to be killed by being kept air-tight, while passing through the tropics ; therein lies their greatest danger. Bat what becomes of them all ? Go where we will we only see two or three tree-ferns even in the best of gardens. Well, there are many things quite as mysterious. A few years ago I went into one of the largest nurseries in the kingdom, and saw I don't know how many thou- sands of Araucaria imbricata, enough to have supplied all Europe I should have fancied. I went again eighteen months afterwards, and every one of them had been sold. The men were getting a number of sacks out of a couple of waggons in the yard ; I asked what the sacks contained. " Oh, they are only part of a lot of Arau- caria seed we have just imported," was the proprietor's answer. What had become of all those trees puzzled me then, and does still ; though I have been puzzled in a similar way many times. But I have wandered away among conifers instead of talking of ferns. Suppose we try once more to return to the subject. Mine is a fearfully vagrant pen. There is one peculiarly beautiful group of ferns in which we have most decidedly eclipsed our forefathers — I mean the filmy ferns, the Trichomanes and Hymenophyl- 28 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. lums. These were more difficult things to manage ten or twelve years ago than perhaps any other plants that could be mentioned. They baf- fled us at first as much as the orchids did our fathers. But the difficulty has been overcome, and they are now no more trouble, if, indeed, they are so much, as some of the gold and sil- ver ferns (Gymnogramma). Delicate and fragile, with their semi-trans- parent fronds, they look like tufts of the most beautiful sea-weeds, plucked from the decorations of a mermaid's ocean-home. More progress has within the last few years been made in introducing new species belonging to these two genera than amon# any other group of ferns. Messrs. Back- house and Son, of York, have paid special attention to the cultivation of the filmy ferns, and have been re- warded with the success they de- served. Simultaneously with the love of ferns grew up also a taste for other plants remarkable for the beauty of their foliage. This taste led to the collecting of Caladiums, Marantas, and all other plants possessed of large and showy leaves, and the more highly they were coloured, the more richly striped, or blotched with crim- son, scarlet, or pure white, the more valuable they were. And very splen- did a collection of them looked inter- spersed with the lively green, deli- cately cut fronds of the ferns. But no one ever dreamed that the two qualities would some day be found com- bined in the same plant, and that plant a fern. But, as you have often been told, there are more things in heaven and earth than are dreamed of in our philosophy, and so there was a great surprise in store for us. It is six years ago now since the first varie- gated tern — Pteris argyrrca — was sent out by Mr. J. Veitch. It took the gardening world by storm, we were all mad until we had got it. There's an old adage which tells us, " That it never rains but it pours ;" and it was proved true in this case. We should all have thought that a variegated fern was an impossible sight — a thing we never should or could see. But we had no sooner added this one to our collections, and began to watch the creamy striped fronds uncurl themselves, wishing it may be that they would not grow so high, but that they would spread themselves so that they could be bet- ter seen, when the rumour passed round among us that two more varie- gated ferns were introduced. M. Linden had obtained the lovely Pteris tricolor from the East Indies, and a perfect gem it proved. A young plant of this grown in strong heat, with two or three half-developed fronds, is as beautiful a thing as one could wish to look upon. The other one, which was named Pteris cretica albo-lineata, Mas imported from the botanic garden at Ja^a to that of Kew, at about the same time. This is decidedly the most useful, if not the most beautiful plant of the three. It does better in a greenhouse than in a stove, in fact it is nearly hardy. If I only grew half-a-dozen ferns this would be one of them. It had a very narrow escape after its long voyage, for when the vessel reached the docks in the Thames, the men in landing the case in which it and other valuable plants had been sent, managed to let it drop overboard. The glass roof was smashed, and half the plants washed out, but the sailors happened to pick up this one and some few others, and with a handful or two of mud threw them back into the case. There were only two little bits of fronds upon the best plant, and they were broken and injured ; but it was tended by loving hands, and before a twelvemonth had passed away there were thousands of seedlings ready to be distributed to those who had anything new or good to give in exchange. The first plant came as I said from Java ; but since that time Japan has, to a certain ex- tent, been thrown open to our country- men, and we find that this plant is quite common and a great favourite there. It is a strange thing that the taste for variegated plants now be- come popular here, has been all the fashion in Japan for ages past. They have in their gardens as many varie- gated plants as we have with all the THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 29 advantages of oar extended com- merce. But it is time I laid down the pen, or I shall be rushing off into another digression about Japanese horticulture, or something else quite as irrevalent. THE IVY. (An Abridgment of a Paper read before the Central Society of Horticulture.) BY SHIRLEY HIBBEED, ESQ., E.B.H.S. (Continued from page 10.) There are several : at the end of June a number of shoots on which the leaves are without lobes, prepare them in the usual way to form cuttings four to six inches long, and pot them singly in 54 or 60-sized pots ; place them in a pit for about eight days, and keep tbem shaded and sprinkled occasionally ; then put them on a gentle bottom- heat, until the pots are full of roots ; shift to 48 or 32-size, using a fourth part rotten dung in the compost; place them on a'bed of fermenting dung out of doors, and there let them remain till the end of September, when they must be removed to a pit or other place of shelter sufficient just to protect them from severe frost. In March these will be in fine condition for grafting, and will require no further potting for another year. But as flowering wood strikes as easily as any other part, real flowering tree ivies, producing none but ovate leaves, may be obtained on their own roots without difficulty. Umbrellas. — These are easily formed, and the Irish and Algerian are admirably adapted for the pur- pose, as are also some of the small- leaved kinds, which form long-droop- ing sprays such as Helix poetica, palmata, Taurica, Pennsylvania, Himalaica, crenata, and digitata. Pot young plants liberally, and set them growing ; train out on wire, and the outline is covered, pinch in all the side- shoots so as to form the head into a dense mass of verdure. Do not entirely remove the side-shoots from the stem until a good head has been obtained, as they help to swell the stem, but keep them pinched back, and when they may be dispensed with Teee Ivies. varieties of ivy that show little or no disposition to climb, but, instead, form compact bushy masses. It will be observed, that whatever names these varieties bear, and to whatever types they may be related, they have these invariable characteristics : that the growth is forked, twiggy, and tends to form close, symmetrical rounded heads ; that the leaves are either wholly entire or very slightly lobed ; and that there is a disposition to the formation of flowers and fruits abundantly. In the tree ivies we have, in fact, the fruiting form only of the parent types ; and it is a very simple matter for the cultivator to convert a climbing ivy into a tree ivy by first causing it to fruit by the discontinuance of vertical support, and then removing some of the fruit- ful branches, and either grafting them or causing them to form roots of their own. I know of no evergreen shrub that can surpass in beauty a well- grown flowering tree ivy ; and as they are thoroughly hardy, they may be made available for winter decora- tion, and for many purposes for which at present more expensive subjects are required. The quickest way to get up fine specimens is to graft in March shoots cut from flowering wood of the kind to be propagated on strongly-rooted stocks of Irish ivy. The stocks should be struck for the purpose the previous April or May, and be kept in pots, so that when the grafts are put on they may be housed and kept shaded, to encourage a quick union. But flowering wood will readily strike, if the cuttings are made early in the season. Take off 30 THE ELORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. remove a few at a time, commencing i at the bottom. These are useful at fetes, and to decorate halls and en- trances, and should be grown of a suitable height and size of head to allow a couple to sit under the head for conversation ; they are, iu fact, a sort of lovers' retreats, and will not only contribute to the beauty of the scene on the occasion of a festive assembly, but often give occasion for sallies of wit and exchanges of play- ful badinage. Pyramids. — The easiest of all the forms in which to train potted ivies is that of the pyramid. Train the young plants upright and orderly two seasons, then shift them iuto 8 or 10- inch pots, using a firm loamy soil, and a liberal proportion of manure in the case of the green-leaved hinds. In- sert a few straight stakes, three or four feet long, and to these train the leaders upright, and take the side- shoots round and round, which will both aid in furnishing the stakes, aud at the same time check their growth. In the autumn when they have done growing draw the stakes together at the summit and tie them firm. Those who visit Mr. Salter's nursery at this time of year may see beside his resi- dence a long row of potted pyramid ivies standing next a white wall, where they look remarkably fresh and cheerful. These are all in 8-inch pots, and have not had a shift for live or six years past. During the summer they are plunged out, aud kept from being damaged by storms by means of a few rough stakes, and in winter they keep guard like so many volun- teer riflemen beside the abode of one ■who has earned a title to dwell in peace and safety. Pyramid ivies would give a belter tone to many of our town and suburban gardens than they have at present, because of their genuine promenade character when well grown and grouped with other equally hardy evergreen shrubs, such as variegated hollies and potted coni- fers. .Bushes. — Ivies trained out in the form of rouud bushes make excellent window screens, and require almost no care at all, and they are admirably adapted for the decoration of town windows, because not requiring to be often repotted. In fact, when once large enough to occupy 8-inch pots, they never need be shifted again, a little refreshment annually by top- dressing being quite sufficient for them. Vakiegated Ivies. — If these are kept much shaded, and grown in a highly manured soil, they lose their beauty, and throw out green shoots. To keep them true, and bring out the true colours of the variegation, the soil should be comparatively poor, well- drained, and the plants must be fully exposed to the sunshine. If it is desired to cause quick growth in any variegated ivies, to form hand- some pot specimens, a sixth part of decayed manure may be used iu the compost, with tough turfy loam and peat. Sound yellow loam full of fibre is the most nourishing soil that can be used with perfect safety in the growth of variegated plants, and should always be the principal staple in the culture of variegated ivies. Pjjopagating. — By the time that ivy berries are quite ripe, the spring will be sufficiently advanced to allow of the seeds being sown without any need of storing them previously. Hub out the seeds, and sow thick in beds of sandy loam. Keep the ground clear of weeds, and as soon as the seedlings show their characters re- move any of distinct habit, and either plant them out where they will have attention or pot them. Those that remain will require to be planted out in nursery rows after they have made one year's growth in the seed- bed. Among the plants selected for special attention, some will prove to be district varieties, the true charac- ters of which will not be fully deter- minable till they are quite three years old. Variegated ivies are seldom ob- tained from the seed-bed ; they are usually sports produced on old speci- mens of wall ivies. Chalk and lime are favourable to the production of variegated sports. There are many variegated forms that have never been named or propagated. We may often see on ruins and old bridges broad sheets of variegated ivy, the result of THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 31 a sportive growth become permanent. These may always be propagated by removing some of the young growth in Mayor June, selecting those which have some proportion ofgreeninthe leaves, and placing the cuttings under beil glasses in any sandy or peaty soil. Many beautiful varieties might be added to our collections, if local sports were secured and distributed, which now exists only in single speci- mens, and many of those we possess might be improved by watching for peculiar growths, and rendering these permanent by propagation. The most remarkable specimen I ever had was a fine plant of U. helix arborea variegata I planted out on a mound in a mixture of poor peat and broken chalk. It formed a fine round head, and every year produced shoots more and more white, until at last there was scarcely any green tint percep- tible in any part of the plant. I tried to root these white shoots — who has not tried the same thing with variegated plants? — and of course "without success ; they would not root either as cuttings or layers, and, at last, the plant becoming completely etiolated, perished in the severe win- ter of 1860, and so I lost the most re- markable of all the fancy ivies I ever possessed. There is another method of causing cuttings of ivy to root quickly ; it is founded upon the peculiar habit of the plant in attaching itself to rough surfaces, such as Trails, the bark of trees, etc. If the growth of a new shoot be observed in spring, it will be seen that on the side next the wall it throws out a number of small, fleshy, tender claws. These are in every respect identical with roots, aud only fail to become roots through lack of moisture in the substance to which they are first applied. Take off a young shoot when about four inches long, remove one or two of the lowest leaves, and plant it so that the deli- cate white rootlets at the base are un- injured, and it will scarcely receive a check, for those rootlets will push into the soil and form a plant at once without the otherwise needful preli- minary of forming a callus. This ia a quick method of propagating ivy, but it must be done in April and May, and the shoots must be taken from a wall or other place to which ivy is attached. Lastly, we may always resort to the very simple, speedy, and certain method of layering. To accomplish this with extra speed, peg out the shoots on a bed of cocoa-nut dust. The free-growing kinds will throw out roots abundantly whenever they touch a damp surface ; so there is really no limit to the possibilities of increase by this method ; and even such delicate kinds as H. helix marginata CMisii, and others that are usually grafted, may be layered on cocoa-nut waste or saudy peat with the greatest cer- tainty. THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR FEBRUARY. Kitchen Garden. — Crops to be cleared off as fast as possible, and the plots ridged up to be well aired before being appro- priated to summer crops. Breadths of cabbage, kail, etc., may be taken up and planted close in out-of-the-way places where they will sprout as freely as if not lifted. Sow main crops of peas and beans, earth up any that are not out of the ground, and if any fear of vermin sprinkle with wood aslies. Messrs. Hooper, of Covent Garden, are offering wire protectors to cover drills of peas to protect them from the birds. We believe the common slug has more to answer for as to the destruc- tion of early rows of peas than any other depredator. Sow a little of every kind of kitchen crop, and a few main sowings of beans and peas. Early crops of ra- dishes and lettuces may be got on slopes, with the help of a few reed or straw hurdles, to give shelter from east winds. Put out a good breadth of young lettuce on a gentle hotbed for planting out a few weeks hence. Whatever arrears of winter work remain must now be cleared up, or the consequences will be serious. Finish all pruning, nailing, forking of borders, and planting of trees and bushes. Make a thorough clearance of the vegetable quiirters. Cauliflowers to be potted in pairs into 32 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 48-pots as soon as large enough to handle; use a mixture of half leaf-mould and half old dung in a state of powder. Make the ground ready at once on which the first lot are to be planted out. Cucumbers for ridge culture to he sown now, or within a week or so. Sow also for frame culture to succeed plants now bearing. We prefer sowing in 60-pots, two seeds in a pot, the strongest plant in each to be kept, and the roots never to be damaged by shifting, so as to have them strong and short for turning out. Potatoes. — The earliest sorts may now be planted out in small breadths. If the sets are not sprouted place them in full daylight, and wait till they have made stout purple shoots half an inch long ; then plant them without breaking the sprouts. Main crops may be planted to- wards the end of the month, hut the operation must depend very much on the weather. Better delay a week or a month than plant while the ground is wet. Put all seed potatoes in full daylight in shallow baskets, in thin layers on dry hay or straw. By keeping the shoots short and plump there is less likelihood of disease, and the vigour of the sets is not impaired. Rhubarb in open quarters to be heavily covered with half-rotten dung. The last lot may be put in for forcing now. Fiujit Garden. — Refer back to the directions given last month; complete all pruning, nailing, and cleaning as soon as possible, and lightly fork over fruit borders, and avoid cropping them as much as pos- sible. Flower Garden. — Tender Annuals, as Portulaccas, Thunbergias, Schizanthus, Phlox Drummondi, Cockscomb, and the lovely Celosia aurea, to be sown the first or second week. Hoses may be planted now to advan- tage, and plantations that need trenching and manuring may be lifted for the pur- pose. We are advocates for lifting roses annually, and ours are now undergoing the process. Put stakes to all newly- planted standards, as, if they rock about in the wind, they may suffer so much injury by straining of the roots as to die in the course of the spring. Be in no haste to prune roses yet; a few for early bloom may be cut back, but the general stock should remain unpruned a few weeks. Bushes from which flowers are to be cut for show should be planted in a firm loam, well manured with turf and half-rotten dung. Dwarf-growing varieties, which are useful for the front lines of roseries, require an admixture of sand and leaf- mould, or peat, to lighten the soil and promote the formation of an abundance of fibres. Annuals for specimen and bedding out to be sown now, include Balsams, Cocks- combs, Globe amaranths, Portulaccas, Schizanthuses, Phloxes (don't forget Phlox Drummondi Radowitz), Brachycomas, Stocks, Tropseolums, Coboeas, Lophos- permums, and Acroclinium. It is too early yet for Asters. First-class annuals should be grown with care, the plants be pricked out early and stopped ; if they once get drawn they never bloom satisfac- torily or show their full capabilities. Any that are wanted in large quantities had best, to make sure, be sown in pans also, and placed in a pit. Auriculas. — Sow seed of the show varieties and a small pinch of Alpines, which, though 0/ no great value, are sure to prove useful. Sow on nice friable soil, already well moistened, and lay squares of glass over the pans so that no more watering will be necessary till the plants are up. If in heat, it should be very gentle, though a cold frame is sufficient. Ranunculuses and Anemones to be planted in beds of sound loam, well drained and well manured. Place the roots' claws downwards two inches deep. The safest method is to open trenches, which are to be sprinkled with coarse sand, on which the tubers are to be placed, and then covered with the soil that was taken out. Stocks.— If any delay has occurred in securing stocks for working get them in at once. Briars for standard roses, Ma- nettis for dwarfs, quinces for pears, etc., etc. Pot a lot of briar suckeTs for budding with choice roses for greenhouse culture, and pot also a few young privets, with one clean stem each to work Oleas on. Conservatory. — Climbers require at- tention now to remove dead wood, rub away any pushing buds that are badly placed, and to train in young shoots where desirable. Most of our conservatory climbers require a liberal heat now to start them into growth, with a free use of the syringe to keep down red spider. Orchid House.— Orchids will in many case3 require to be repotted, and after which they must have the warmest end of the house. Those that do not need a shift should have a little of the eld surface material removed, and its place supplied with fresh; at the same time make fasten- ings safe, and repair blocks and baskets. Greenhouse. — Orange Trees should be well cleaned now to remove scale, and the tubs and pots have a fresh surfacing of rich soil or old dung. When starting THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 33 plants of this kind keep up a moderately moist atmosphere. 1 i Azaleas and Camellias to he kept going for succession. Take care they have enough water while forcing; as the blooms open use the syringe less, and remove them to a cooler atmosphere to prolong the bloom. Fuchsias for beds may be propagated to any extent from a few old plants, and a very moderate temperature will set them growing for the purpose. Take off the young shoots when about three inches long, with a heel to each. Specimen Plants will mostly want pruning, repotting, cleaning, etc., pre- viously to being started into growth. It would be well to look over the stock of such things at once, that valuable time may not be lost. Bedding Plants. — Arrange the propa- gation of these according to their habits. Those that require to make a free growth before they bloom to be got on first; and those that come into bloom quickly may be deferred. Petunias, heliotropes, gera- niums, ageratums, nierembergias, lobelias, cupheas, and lantanas to be cut from as soon as the old plants furnish shoots for the purpose. There need be no haste about verbenas, dahlias, mimulus, perilla, Oenotheras, salvias, and tropajolums; they will make as good plants from cuttings a month hence. Be sure that the old plants are in vigorous growth before beginning to cut at them. Begonias should now be repotted, and have large[shifts when required afterwards. Gloxinias started now will make rapid growth, especially if we are favoured with a continuance of this bright weather. In planting these use the compost in a mode- rately damp state, and give no water until the bulbs begin to grow; after which sup- ply it with caution, until the plants have a pretty good show of leaves. Propagation of climbers and tender annuals should now be going on in earnest, and there must be no more delay in pro- pagating bedders, if a good early bloom is wanted. Tropreolum elegans and Triom- phe de Hyris may be delayed to the end of March, as they bloom the better, and make less growth, if propagated late; but gera- niums, fuchsias, petunias, and verbenas, should be cut from as fast as they furnish shoots. New Holland Plants and Heaths de- mand a great deal of attention now to bring leggy specimens into shape, encou- rage the growth of those going out of bloom, and protect from cold draughts and undue moisture those coming into bloom. Continue to shift such as re- quire it, and any that are looking out of health, turn out of their pots, to see if the drainage is right, and the stuff sweet and porous. The powdery peat in which these plants are generally grown at nurseries, is best got rid of as much as possible from the roots, taking care not to damage the delicate fibres, and in repot- ting, use plenty of fibry turf and peat, rough lumps, sifting out the fine dust if needful, which will be useful in propa- gating to pot young stuff in from the cutting pans. Vinery. — Vines to be thinned as soon as the berries are of sufficient size. Tie in the young shoots and remove laterals early, so as to accomplish the pruning as much as possible with the finger and thumb. Be particular to lower the tem- perature at night. Very many of the failures in grape growing arise through too high a night temperature. Those swelling fruit will require plenty of moisture. The cause of cracking is, in the majority of cases, insufficient drink ; and shanking arises through sour borders, where the drainage is imperfect. Orchard House. — Peaches and other orchard house trees will set their fruit more freely if there is a good breeze through the house every day ; the atmos- phere at the same time to be kept as dry as possible. Peaches to be thinned and disbudded judiciously ; do not remove all the superfluous fruit and shoots at once. Trees that have set their fruit to have liberal syringes with soft water of the temperature of the house. Figs setting fruit to be kept in a rather dry air, but with sufficient moisture at the root. Forcing. — Strawberries in the forcing pit to have plenty of air, plenty of light, and plenty of water. Tepid manure water will assist in augmenting the size of the berries, but there must be plenty of light and air to insure flavour and colour. Asparagus. — The beds should be lined, if the heat is declining ; the heat ought to be near 603 to insure a quick growth of eatable shoots. Ground for new beds should he got ready at once, and tolerably manured. Pines may have an increase of bottom- heat, with liberal supplies of water, and occasional syringing over-head. Put suckers in a tan bed, or a sweet and active dung bed, to insure a plentiful growth of roots. Cucumbers recently turned out may be suffering from excess of heat; in which case draw some soil away from the bot- tom of the hillocks. Make sure of a few reserve plants. 34 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Vines may be propagated now from eyes in a dung frame, where the bottom heat is steady at 75\ Vines in free growth to have plenty of syringing, except while in flower. A general rise in temperature may now be allowed. Celery large enough to be pricked out, to be removed forthwith to a sweet hotbed. Sow again for the main crop. There are no sorts to beat Cole's white and Man- chester red. Stove. — The temperature may be in- creased now with advantage. Achimenes are pushing briskly ; these aud gloxinias to be potted to succeed the first batch. Soil equal parts turfy loam and fibrous peat, with sufficient sand to render the mass porous. These require full light while growing, though their flowers must be shaded. The whole of the plants will need a general revision at this time of year ; those that have been blooming all winter require to be cut back, and encouraged to break, then to be shifted to larger pots, if needful, or have top dressings ; where very large specimens are objectionable, the plants may be kept in bounds by the knife ; and to obviate the use of larger pots, turn them out, remove some of the soil from the outside of the balls, and re- pot them with fresh compost in the same pots. Justicias are now going out of bloom, and may be propagated to any extent, to make fine specimens for next season. Poinsettia pulcherrima aud Euphorbia jac- quinifeflora and splendens should be grown in quantity, as they are invaluable for con- servatory and drawing-room. Greenhouse plants in flower. — Acacia grandis, florihunda, liolosericea. — The soil should be sandy loam and peat, in a rough state, with lumps of turf and small nodules of charcoal. 'They occasion no trouble, and will endure ^some amount of ill-treatment without harm. Their foliage is so beautiful, that they are worth growing well, irrespective of their lively yellow flowers. They are best propagated from seed in a hot-bed in March, the seeds to be soaked a few Lours before sowing it. Azalea obtusa, triumphans, Perryana, arncena, lateritia, tricolor, auruntiaca, .Fortuni, squamata. — Any it may be de- sired to propagate should be layered as they go out of bloom. The layers will require to be twisted and covered with moss, into which the first roots will run, and allow of the removal of the layers earlier than by any other mode. Urachystma lanceolatum. — A beauti- fulFabaceou* greenhouse evergreen climber from Swan River. Flowers scarlet, abun- dantly produced. Soil peat and loam, winter temperature 50' to 601, summer temperature 55' to 65', easily propagated from half-ripe shoots in sand. Cytisus Jilipes. — This pretty white- flowered broom is a charming plant for forcing, but it will bloom at this season in an interme'iiate house, and would be in no way improved by stove treatment. All the Cytisus are useful plants, and some of the hardy kinds of moderate growth are well worth potting, to decorate the con- servatory. The best of the greenhouse kinds are elegans, yellow ; tilipes, white ; laniger, yellow ; rigidus, yellow ; nubi- genus, yellow ; and proliferous, yellow. Though not particular as to f oil, potted plants should have a light mixture of turfy loam with a little peat. Dielytra speclahilis is one of the easiest plants to grow, and one of the most beautiful to group with other spring flowers, and with foliage plants and hya- cinths in the conservatory. We usually see it drawn and weak through insufficient light and air, for like many other subjects that bear ill-treatment patiently, it is thrust into the dark or subjected to exces- sive heat, and otherwise most unjustly dealt with. It is much better as a pot plant for the greenhouse than for the bor- ders, for except in warm sheltered gardens, the spring frosts do it much damage when coming into bloom. The best way to deal with it is to pot the roots in loam, leaf, and old dung, equal parts, as soon as the stems die down in autumn, place the pots in a pit and keep them only moderately moist. In November begin to force gently, and continue to introduce a few to the end of January. In May harden them off and turn them out into a rich border, and take up again when the foliage is wither- ing. Ericas. — The early blooming kinds are invaluable. The hardy heaths, such as Erica herbacea, should be grown in plenty wherever peat-beds form a feature in the garden. Pimelia decussata. — These favourites of the greenhouse are natives of New Hol- land, and require the treatment usually given to New Holland plants. The soil should be sandy fibrous peat and fibrous loam, with a plentiful admixture of no- dules of charcoal, and good drainage. P. decussata is entered in our list simply be- cause we have happeued to have it in bloom on the 23rd of February, in a warm greenhouse. But spectabilis and Hender- sonii are much better. Pimelias are of very little use in small collections, as their colours are neither rich nor striking. To THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 35 make the best of them, young plants should be frequently stopped to make them bushy. Correa cardinalis, Brachysema longi- folia, acuminata, hybridum, undulatum, Epacris impressa, Erica blanda, vernalis, rubrocalix, and triumphans, all in bloom now. NOTICES OF BOOKS. The Story of a Bee and her Friends, told by Herself. Wertheira, Macintosh, and Hunt. — This is one of the best ex- amples of natural history books for the young, the invention peculiar to the style of an autobiography having been indulged only so far as was needful to give the re- quisite personality to the subject without in the slightest interfering with the accu- racy of the real history which the book conveys. The plates are admirably done, and the book is as pretty as it is good, and ought to be in the hands of all good boys and girls everywhere. Olney and the Lacemakers. William Macintosh. — In this prettily illustrated volume the author gives an account of a visit to Olney, and the meditations which accompanied an exploration of the resi- dences of Cowper, Newton, and others of the great Olney worthies. This part of the book is of that pleasant gossipy cha- racter which we look for in all accounts of pilgrimages to English shrines. But there is a painful history inwoven with it, for at Olney are to be found the producers of the so-called " Maltese lace," and there many of the social horrors common to London slopwork, and ill-paid needlewomen are repeated, varied only by the local colour- ing and the limitations consequent on the seclusion of Olney from the bustle and excitement of what is elsewhere called life. This short story of the lacemakers is deeply touching, and its recital in this attractive volume will, we have no doubt, accomplish some real good. If the public should demand a second edition — of which we have no doubt at all — we advise the author to cut out all the bits of stale bio- graphy, and in their place transcribe a few more passages from her note-book of things actually seen and heard at Olney. The Flora of Surrey. By J. H. Bre- wee. Van Voorst. — The Flora of the West Riding. By L. C. Miall and Dr. B. Car- rington. Pamplin. — Flora of Marlborough, with Notices of the Birds, etc. By T. A. Pres- ton. Van Voorst. — These three Floras can only be announced here in order to in- form our botanical readers of their exis- tence. "The Flora of Surrey " is a very important work, and will be found im- mensely valuable and interesting to all London botanists. Mr. Miall's work on the West Riding is a masterly production. Mr. Preston's work is too restricted in its range, but it is at least a faithful guide to a spot possessing rare attractions for the naturalist. A Familiar Epistle to Robert J. Walker. Saunders, Otley, and Co. — There is much in this book to interest all who are watch- ful of the changing aspects of American politics, and the book may probably have some influence on the tactics of parties both north and south. But if any one should expect to find in it a witty criticism on American affairs he will be mistaken ; though there is a pretence to both wit and humour, there is not one grain of either. The Desk-Booh of English Synomytns. By John Sherer. Groombridge and Sons. — This is a work of high merit, and one of its greatest recommendations is that in a very small compass is comprised a very complete view of the whole subject. The classification and analysis of synonyms are tasks to which Mr. Sherer has applied himself with a reasonable enthusiasm, and the result is a reliable, discriminating, and suggestive work, to which the student of English composition may turn in any diffi- culty with a certainty of finding help. England's Workshops.. ;By Dr Strauss, C. W. Quin-, J. C. Brotjgh, T. Archer, W. B. Tegetmeieh, and J. W. Prowse. A collection of papers on metal, glass, chemi- cal and other manufactures, by writers familiar with the processes and operations described, and skilled in the instruction of the unprofessional in matters of practical science. De La Rue's Red Letter Diary, 1864. De La Rue and Co. — Mr. De La Rue pre- sents his subscribers this year with a pho- tograph of the moon's disk, most beauti- fully got up by Messrs. Smith and Beck. There is no such artistically produced and thoroughly useful memorandum book as this, its production deserves to mark an epoch in the history of printing. c2 36 FEBRUARY, 1864.— 29 Days. Phases of the Moon. — Last Quarter, 1st, Oh. 17m. morn. ; New, 7th, 6h. lOin. after.; First Quarter, 14th, lh. 24m. after. ; Full, 22nd, 5h. lm. after. Averages foe the Month. — Bar. 29945. Therm, max. 44% min. 33", mean 38£°. Eain 1*5 inches. A very uncertain month ; frosts and storms frequent. Prevailing winds S.W., W., and N.W. Range of temperature large. I) Sun Sun Moon Moon Weather near London, Exhibitions, Meetings, Anniversaries, M rises. seta. rises. sets. 1883. etc. h. in. h. in. Morn. Morn. 1 7 42 4 46 1 26 10 38 Cloudy ; fine ; rain Hilary term ends 2 7 40 4 48 2 33 11 18 Overcast ; windy ; rain Purification ofB.V.M. Candlemas. 3 7 39 4 50 3 40 After. Cloudy ; fine ; shower Biot died, 1862 [born, 1778 4 7 37 4 52 4 40 1 9] Clear; fine; cloudy Augustus Pyramus de Candolle F> 7 364 54 5 31 2 22 Clouded ; fine Agatha 6 7 34 4 55 6 15 3 43 Cloudy ; fine at night Priestley died, 1804 7 7 32 4 57 6 52 5 7) Warm, ther. 56° Q uiiiquagesima 8 7 314 59 7 22 6 33 Rain ; fine; frost Day breaks, 5h. 35m. 9 7 29 5 1 7 49 7 56; Frost v ; clear Shrove Tuesday [rist, died, 1850 10 7 27 5 3 8 15 9 18 Cloudy; fine Mr. Smith of Hopetown, Horticultu- 11 7 25 5 5 8 40 10 36 Partially overcast ; fine Twilight ends 7h. lm. 12 7 23 5 7 9 6 11 52 Hazy ; very fine; frosty Custom-house burnt, 1814 13 7 215 8 9 37 Mom. Frost; baro.high 30-575 iLength of day 9h. 47m. 14 7 20 5 10 10 12 1 3 Hazy; fine.baro. 30579 Quadragesima, 1st Sunday in Lent 15 7 18 5 12 10 53 2 8 Frosty, fog ; fine ; frost Day breaks 5h. 22m. 16 7 16 5 14 11 40 3 4 Frost ; fine ; fog ; frost Burke executed, 1829 17 7 145 16 After. 3 53 Dense fog; baro. 30-556 Michael Angelo died, 1564 IS 7 12 5 17 1 29 4 34 Frost ; rain at night Luther died, 1 546 19 7 10 5 19 2 30 5 8 Eain ; fog Cethin colliery accident, 1861 20 7 8 5 21 3 35 5 37 Hazy ; cloudy ; frost jHume died 1855 21 7 65 23 4 38 6 2 Dense fog ; very fine \2nd Sunday in Lent [1850 22 7 4 5 25 5 42 6 24 Fine ; vry fine ; frost j Mr. Scott, florist of Dorking, died, 23 7 2 5 27 8 46 6 44 Fine ; mild at night Cato-street conspiracy, 1820 24 7 05 28 7 52 7 4 Cloudy ; hazy ; frost St. Matthias 25 6 58 5 30 8 59 7 25 Fog ; baro. still high Dr. Mackay died, 1862 26 6 55 5 32 10 7 7 47 Fine ; cloudy ; fine The " Birkenhead" lost, 1852 27 6 53 5 34 11 14 8 11 Fine ; very fine ; frost Twilight ends 7h. 28m. 28 6 515 35 Morn. 8 41 Foggy; fine; baro. still 3rd Sunday in Lent 29 6 49 5 37 1 0 21 9 16 high, rare thing in Feb Corn Laws repealed, 1849 Probable Weather, February, 1864. — Last month was much finer and milder than we anticipated. We are likely to have some sharp frosts in the present month, but probably not till towards the end. From 1st to 6th wind generally S.W., thence to 16th variable, much humidity, thence to end wind N.N.E. to N.N.W., with frost. TO CORRESPONDENTS. Catalogues Received. — " Sutton and Sons, Royal Berkshire Seed Establish- ment, Reading. Spring Catalogue and Amateurs' Guide for 1864." One of the most useful catalogues issued ; for besides some full and excellent lists of farm and garden seeds, there are some valuable hints upon their culture, and a calendar of operations in the garden for every month in the year.— "William Paul, F.R.H.S., Nurseries and Seed Warehouse, ^Waltham Cross, N. Se- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 37 lect List of Vegetable, Flower, and Agricultural Seeds." A very valuable and intelligible list, in which great pains has evidently been taken to select only those varieties which have proved them- selves to be real acquisitions to our gardens. — "Benjamin S. Williams, Paradise and Victoria Nurseries, Hollo- way, London, N. Descriptive Catalogue of Choice and Selected Flower and Vegetable Seeds for 1864." A large and well arranged list, with many really valuable novelties, among which may be specially mentioned a superb strain of primula, remarkable for their profusion of fine blooms. — " Wm. Wood and Sons, Woodlands Nursery, Mans- field, near Uckfield, Susses. Catalogue of Seeds and Bulbs for Spring Planting, with an Appendix comprising Roses, Fruit-trees, Ornamental Shrubs, etc." A compendious list, intelligibly arranged, with valuable descriptions, cultural notes, and general remarks. — "London Seed Company (Limited), 68, Welbeck Street, Cavendish Square, W. General Price Current of Kitchen Garden, Flower, and Farm Seeds for 1864." A large and admirable catalogue, which contains in addition to the usual cultural notes, an almanack for 1864, and a first- rate calendar of operations for the gar- den for every month in the year. — " William Cutbush and Sons, Nurseries, Higligate, London, N. Catalogue of Select Vegetable, Flower, and Farm Seeds for 1864." A capital and tho- roughly reliable list, none but good sorts being recommended. Roses and Strawberries. — Please to say what is the best time for removing rooted cuttings of roses — perpetuals and Bourbons. I thought that some I put in in the autumn of '62 would do better if left alone till the spring of '64, but I am doubtful on this point now, as they have not made as much progress as I expected. On this account I wish for your advice as to cuttings made last au- tumn, some in the open air, others under cap glasses, and all which seem to be doing well. Will roses do on a wall facing west ? Is there any use in trying tea-roses at an elevation of over 550 feet above the sea-level, about sixty miles south of Dublin, and inland, but much exposed to N. and N.E. ? The tea, G. de Dijon does well. Are there any other tta-roses equally hardy ? I read your recent article on "Strawberries" with much interest. Would you recommend the same solidifying the soil for those grown in the open ground ? If so, how could it be effected ? Would walking over established beds answer ? What is the best time for manuring strawberries ? I am inclined to think when they are in blossom, as there is not then so much fear of the manure going only to pro- mote the growth of leaves. — S. C. M. [We have frequently advised rose- growers not to move rooted cuttings in winter or early spring, unless they could put them on a moderate bottom- heat immediately, as after disturbing their roots they are likely to perish, un- less immediately assisted to make new roots. If you can make up a good hot- bed, and wait till the heat is steady at 65' to 70', you may pot off your cut- ings. If not, let them remain as they are till the end of April, then you may either pot them or plant in the open ground. It is impossible to say whether or not tea-roses w.-ll do on the bleak bill. Many experienced rose-growers would be afraid to plant them; for our- selves we would not hesitate to put out a few, and add to them or not, according as events might teach. The following are the hardiestof the race — Adam, Abri- cote, Comte de Paris, Devoniensis, Frageoletta, Gloire de Dijon, Leveson Gower, Mareschal Bugeaud, Pactolus, Sa- frano, Sombieuil. A west wall will do for any kind of roses. Manure your strawberries at once. You may make the ground as firm as a pavement be- tween the rows. Don't be afraid of a too vigorous leaf growth; the finer the leaves, the finer the fruit, and the free growth of leaves will not prevent fruit coming, for if they mean to bear the embryo fruit is already formed in the crowns of the plants.] Notching and Flinging. — After reading the account of Mr. Hibberd's method of making roses root themselves, in the Floral W^obld, April, 1862, p. 70, I determined to try my hand at the same practice, and I wish my fellow rose- growers to know the result, to show that we amateurs may succeed in the nicer operations of horticulture as well as the great professionals. I used, for earthing up over the notches, common builders' sand rather dry, and obtained in one season from single plants of each, 3 M. Bernardin, 1 Due de Rohan, 2 General Washington, 2 Senateur Vaisse, 1 C. Guillot, 4 La Reine, 2 Triomphe des Beaux Arts. Two of my notches missed. I know of many rose-growers who are always on the look-out for new informa- tion, and I almost wish the Floral World was at least half occupied with 38 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. rose papers. What most concerns me now is root grafting ; when should it be done, and how? — J. B., Leicester. [Do it at once, by whip-grafting, and plant directly.] Anacharis alsinastrcm. — The dreaded Anacharis alsinastrum has made its ap- pearance here in the river Barrow. I first observed it in small quantities in 1862. Last summer it had complete possession. I am not aware if it has been observed in Ireland before. Can you in your next number give your Irish cousins so:ne idea as to how it came to England and how it has come over here; it is a sad pest to millers, completely blocking up the water. — Frederick Haughton, Maganny, Ireland. [At page 61 of the "Book of the Aquarium," it is stated that this water thyme Was first noticed by Dr. G. John- ston, in a pond at Dunse Castle, Ber- wick, in 1842. Dr. Johnston sent some of it to Mr. Babington at Cambridge. There it speedily increased in the Bota- nic Garden, and in time got into the Cam, and thence into other rivers, and so was distributed throughout the country. It is a native of North Ame- rica, and is believed to have been ori- ginally introduced by means of the attachment of plants to imported tim- ber. How it has found its way to Ire- land we cannot imagine, but there is no mystery in the rapid spreading and pro- pagating of a plant which possesses more than an ordinary share of vitality, for a scrap an inch long, once lodged in the bed of a river, would suffice to choke the stream in a very few years. But the great question is how to" get rid of it ? "We know of but two methods, one is constant dragging, which is expen- sive, only partially effectual, and needs to be constantly repeated. The other is to launch a fleet of swans on the stream ; these noble birds are excessively fond of Anacharis, and eat it with such voracity that it is impossible any river can long be choked by it if the swans are suffi- cient in number to eat it as fast as it grows.] Coleus Verschaffelti. — Langley Fitz- hurst. — This and the pretty C. Blumei require to be kept all winter in the same way as variegated leaved begonias. The proper place for them is a stove or warm greenhouse ; if in the stove they may have moderate supplies of water, and be kept growing slowly ; if in a green- house very little water indeed. The simplest and quickest way to propagate is to put the plants now into a warm moist temperature, nothing so good as a dung-bed, with a brisk heat. Here they will produce abundance of shoots, which may be taken off when two or three inches long, dibbled into sandy peat, and placed on a bottom-heat of 70°, and they will root immediately. "We had one small plant of C. Verschaffelti the first spring it was sent over from the Continent, and from this we raised just fifty-nine plants on a dung-bed, and all were strong enough to plant out in June of the same year. The Appeal. — Received for poor Botanist, Q. T. S., Bote, £1 Is. ; J. S. Brentingly, 3s. ; Bev. B. B. Atherstone, 5s. ; H. R. Bedland, £\ ; S. C. M. Is. ; Jan. 5, Reading, 5s. ; Lady D., 5s. The3e amounts have been paid over, and the recipient is grateful. Rhododendron ponticum. — A. B. — This, the commonest of the rhododen- drons, is as fruitful in varieties as any of them, but it may always be known whatever its peculiarities, by the pecu- liar leafage and habit. When choice hvbrids are grafted on it, the stock is not so readily adaptable to a variety of soils as when it carries its own head, and therefore if good varieties are ob- tained, grafted on ponticum, our advice is, let them have good peat, or a suitable mixture of sand and leaf-mould. Genetillis tulipifera. — Rock Lodge. — This charming evergreen and its asso- ciate Hederoma, are among the easiest of greenhouse plants to grow to perfec- tion. Let the soil be light and rich ; never suffer them to get starved, repot in spring, syringe frequently while making new growth, and otherwise let the treatment be the same as for a myrtle. Cassia corymbosa.— Thanks are returned to the Editor of the Floral World for the kind notice taken of inquiries re- specting Cassia corymbosa, and in answer to the question "did it require or get protection through the winter?" I beg to state that the first winter it had only a little ashes placed around its stem, and over its roots. The second winter the same ; last winter pine branches surrounded it. This season a light covering of reed net is over it, and so far it is perfectly uninjured. It is against an eastern wall, and in rather a cold situation. — A. P. B. Blue Lobelia. — R.B. — On the 21st of December last we saw at a nursery enough seedlings of blue lobelia to make a mile of edging, so that you may judge that it is not too early to sow at once for THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 39 an early bloom. When we have grown lobelia* in quantity we considered the 1st of February the best day in the whole year to sow the seed. Then we never pushed it so fast as they do at the nurseries. The consequence was that our edgings were not rich in bloom till about ten days after other people's were full out; but they lasted six weeks longer, the lobelias being everywhere shabby before the 15th of September, whereas ours was good till the 1st of November, or later, according to the severity of the first frost.] Golden Ball Kail. — I enclose a small leaf of a savoy that I picked up in a cottage garden here, and I do so because I promise myself the pleasure of send- ing you some of the seeds, if I get any seeds from the plant. This is very like counting the chickens before the eggs are laid, but I want you to see what a valuable acquisition my Golden Ball Kail will be if it can be secured. The large leaves are very handsomely marked, but, alas ! a cow got into the garden and ate up the best of my purple kails. — M.B. [The two leaves sent are interesting. The purple leaf is richiy coloured, and might be useful to cut for bouquets as well as garnishing, but it is in no sense a remarkable sport. On the other hand the "Golden Ball" is the best variegated kind we have yet seen, the leaf a vivid gold yellow, with just enough green in the centre to show that there is no lack of vigour in the variety. A few cuttings of the Golden Ball should be struck in heat at once, or it may be lost altogether; for though it will no doubt seed freely, the chances are that not one seedling will be like the pre- sent. The only safe way to keep such things is to take cuttings as soon as they have made sufficient growth to furnish them, and it would be better to strike a few now than risk losing it. In 1862 we sowed several samples of seed of variegated kail, obtained from first-rate houses, and did not get a plant worth keeping. Our object was to introduce variegated kail into our scheme of out- door decorations, and the effort was vain. We have now some very pretty examples in a piece of kail, and the seed of which was of the ordinary green kind. Such is the uncertainty attending the cultiva- tion of these curiosities.] Neapolitan Violet. — B.T.— This ought, so far as atmosphere is concerned, to grow in perfection at Tulse Hill. The reason yours neither grow nor bloom is that they are not cultivated. It is too often the fate of plants of humble growth such as violets, hepaticas, hardy primulas, etc., to be treated as weeds, that is, planted without regard to their habits and necessities, and after that left to thrive or perish as circumstances may determine. To grow Neapolitan violets in your garden, choose a piece of shaded ground, and have it deeply stirred, and liberally enriched with rotten stable manure, and clean leaf-mould. If your soil is heavy, add roadsandfrom a gravel road. This should be done now, and the ground left rough, and the best form will be a four feet bed of any length you de- sire. On the 1st of May plant the bed with the violets, planting the large plants in rows apart from the younger ones, the former fifteen inches apart, and the others twelve inches apart, and the rows a foot apart, those outside six inches from the alleys. Plant firm, keep the ground clean, give heavy soakings of water in dry weather. On the 1st of November these will be fine plants to take up for flowering under some sort of shelter, such as a frame, or to force on a bed of leaves, or some slowly fermenting mate- rial. Plant hepaticas in strong loam inclining to clay, and they will grow anywhere.] Cuttings in Boxes, Culture of Holly- hocks.— In the August number of the Floral World, p. 173, 1 read with great interest an article on " Propagating for next Season," and immediately set about manufacturing a couple of boxes such as you described. Your directions were very faithfully complied with. I cannot find any fault with the carpenter, but, for some reason that I cannot discover, the boxes do not answer. I filled them with pots of cuttings of verbenas, lobe- lias, calceolaria, ageratum, and various other bedding plants, and all have by this time died of mildew. The oldest inhabitant has just died off, and is covered with mildew, although the cases have not seen water for several weeks. The cases stand in the conser- vatory, and are surrounded by many plants in full health. I have been al- ways accustomed to strike my cuttings in the conservatory under the common " bell-glasses," and with regular water- ing they do not suffer as these have without, but root almost invariably. I fancy, from the depth of the cases the pots ought to stand on something to bring them nearer the glass. As it is, they were placed on the wood. Will you kindly inform me if you can divine the cause or causes of my utter failure ? It 40 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. has sometimes occurred to me that I should like to try one of them in this way. To till the case two or three inches up with broken crocks for drainage, and then lay on a depth of about four inches of mixed charcoal and cocoa-dust, and dibble the cuttings into the compost. When rooted they could easily be raised with a trowel, and be potted off. Do you think this plan likely to succeed 1 Of course, instead of having three, I should have about a dozen holes in the bottom of the case. The holes existing were made with a red-hot poker. I had some seeds given me a year or two ago of some remarkably choice double holly- hock=, but to my surprise the seedlings have flowered as single as it is possible to be. Should I sow the seeds of the single flowers, would they be likely to come double ? or should I have taken cuttings of the double plants to propa- gate them in place of relying upon seeds? — J. G., Peckham. [This is the first failure of boxes we have heard of, but we are not much mystified about the cause of it. If J. G. will turn to the original description, he will see that an old Waltonian was adduced as the model for such boxes. Now the first principle of the Waltonian is to be covered with glass lights. It was not said that cut- tings in boxes would do without glass over them any more than cuttings in pots, and the propagating cases, even if made of egg-chests, ought to have lights of some sort. The reason of J. G.'s failure is that his cuttings never got properly rooted, and no doubt he will lose them all. But if the cuttings had had lights over to keep them close, they would have rooted well, and a thousand plants that way ■are no more trouble than a hundred done in pots, as they may re- main in the boxes till planted out in spring. Cocoa-nut waste is excellent for striking cuttings, and need not have charcoal mixed with it ; a little fine loam would be better, though it is not absolutely needful. The hollyhocks were <;rown too poor. Throw them away and begin again. Grow them from the first in rich soil, and sow the seed in May or June.] Camellias and other Greenhouse Plants, and Shady Border. — I am much troubled with my camellias. I have a number, large and small, nearly all clean and healthy. All formed a profusion of buds, and during the last two mouths almost every bud has dropped off. It is certainly not from want of water, possibly we have given them too much. How can I know what quantity is too much f They were in an open shed facing north till October, and since then in a cool house facing south. Many buds dropped in the shed, many since their removal. I wrote you an account some months ago of my Lapageria rosea, which you put into your October number. I have continued the same plan with it, and the plant is vigorous and healthy, but is only now sending up a slender shoot. And last night, alas ! it was frozen hard in my little conser- vatory, and is not yet thawed. I am at my wits' end to keep the frost out. I have put in lighted lamps and hot-water bottles this evening. Is there any port- able contrivance for heating houses that have no stove or water-pipes ? What plants can I put in a very shady spot in my garden, under a box-tree, a holly, and other close shrubs ? Ferns do not succeed because the rain can't get in, the trees shelter it so completely. My gloxinias are beginning to grow, though kept quite dry. Is it too early to start them and achimenes in heat now ? — IT. R. [The falling of the flower-buds of camellias is the subject of so many letters from correspondents, that we must endeavour to set forth in full (though briefly) all the possible causes and means of prevention. The falling of the buds may happen through any of the following causes : — Too dry and too hot an atmosphere. Want of water at the roots. Too much water at the roots. Water given too cold at the roots. Sud- den changes of temperature. Want of daylight. Exposure to high tempera- tures at night. We will now state the means of preventing the falling of the buds : — Water as often as the roots are nearly dry. The water to be of the same temperature as the room. The leaves to be sponged frequently with tepid water. Plants to be removed when the room is extra heated, especially at night. Never to be exposed to cold draughts. On the other hand, to be set out on a balcony in the sun on bright, warm, still days. As the buds swell, the roots may be watered once a week with a solution of sulphate of ammonia — half an ounce to a gallon of water, or two or three drops of hartshorn may be put in the water every time the plant is watered. If the pots stand in saucers, these must be emptied of all drainings from the pots after watering. It may seem to some that there is a great deal to learn in order to make sure of keep- ing a pet plant. In plain truth, the THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 41 chief tiling is to observe regularity in attending to window plant3. It is the doing too much to-day and forgetting them to-morrow that kills most of the plants that are taken into rooms. Let it he remembered that the camellia likes a moist atmosphere, and that the air of dwelling rooms is generally dry, and it will be seen how important it is that the leaves should be sponged frequently to keep them clean, and to benefit the plain by the moisture the leaves will absorb during the process. Camellias ought never to be dry at the root, and especially at this time of the year. Drought does not hurt them so much in summer as in winter, and the cultivator of camellias should endeavour to keep the roots al- ways moist, but not wet, and with no stagnant water under the pots. Treated according to these rules, the plants will flower well, and then they begin to grow. The growing season is the criti- cal time for camellias, because then they require an atmosphere extra moist, still, and warm ; and if they can be placed in a warm pit or shady greenhouse to make their new growth, it will be the better for them. Supposing that cannot be done, we should advise the cultivator to remove all the blooms as soon as the new shoots have a start. To dew the plants twice a day, by drawing the hand over a wet brush held close beside them. To water the roots regularly, as before advised, but to use no stimulants. To nip out the top bud of every shoot, and allow all other buds to grow as they please. To keep the plants in full day- light, but not to place them in the sun. To give them very little air. Not to sponge the new leaves till they are quite firm in texture. To cut away any ugly shoot which may have been preserved hitherto because it had flower-buds on it. To scrape away a little of the top soil, without hurting the roots, and re- place it with a mixture of half leaf- mould and half dung, rotted to pow- der. With this treatment the plants will in due time cease to grow, and at the termination of every new shoot there will be a flower-bud formed. As soon as this terminal bud is visible, begin to give the plants air by degrees, and let them feel the sun morning and evening. Cease to dew the foliage, and give less water, but do not let them go quite dry at ike roots. After a fortnight of this treatment, place fhem out of doors in a warm, sheltered, and rather shady place ; and all the attention they will want till October following will be to water them regularly. A little sun will do them good, but to be exposed to the full sun in the height of summer will be hurtful. These plants grow naturally in damp shady woods, and thus they require less light than many other equally showy subjects, and that is the reason they do so well in old-fashioned greenhouses which have high walls and heavy roofs. The object of nipping out the top bud is to keep the plants dwarf and bushy ; if the top buds are allowed to grow, the plants become in a few years very leggy and unsightly. Your Lapageria will not be much hurt by the frost. The best of all contrivances for small green- houses, where there is no proper heating apparatus, is Joyce's patent stove, sold by Swan Nash, 119, Newgate Street, and 253, Oxford Street. Ferns would suc- ceed in your shady spot if sprinkled with water every day from April to July, after that they would do without it. The following are useful for shady places — Periwinkles, six or more kinds ; ivy, over fifty kinds ; butcher's broom, hardy primulas, common box, green holly, Solomon's seal, etc. See page 66 of last year's volume. Start gloxinias and achimenes at once.] ASPLENIUM BULBIFEKUM.— Rev. H. B. We never reply to queries through the post unless there are special and peculiar reasons for so doing. The fern named above, like most other evergreen ferns, is always growing, and should be al- lowed to grow, but, of course, it grows slowly in winter, and does not then need much water. It is one of our favourites, and we find it as easy to manage as a common polypody. Greenhouse tempera- ture certainly suits it best, it is in fact nearly hard}'. Some time in March or April is the best season for repotting, the soilto be equal parts of tough peat chopped up to the size of walnuts, and silky, yellow loam. If the loam is rather stiff add a fifth part of sand to the whole mixture. In reporting turn out the ball, remove the crocks, loosen the outside roots, and remove as much of the old soil as can be got away without seriously distressing the plant, and repot in one size larger, and pot firm, taking care to press in the nodules of peat all round with as much pressure as the thumbs are capable of. If the plant is placed on a gentle bot- tom heat after potting, it will quickly make new roots, and grow vigorously, but it will do very well wiihout bottom- heat. It is fond of water, and must have abundance all the summer, both at the root and overhead ; but as it does not 42 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. like stagnant water, the pot should be well crocked, and should be so placed that superfluous water can flow away easily. Selaginellas growing in the pot will do no harm.] TROP-BOLtTMS AND StACHTS LANATA. A. P. S. — Spring cuttings of tropaso- lums make the best plants for summer bloom, and it is well not to take the cut- tings too early. All the Lobbianum sections, to which yours belong, are easy to manage ; the soil should be rather poor and sandy, but quite sweet. The plants like plenty of sun, and only moderate supplies of water. They make very good window plants. Stachys lanata is best increased by parting tbe roots. Christmas Gifts — The January number of the Floral World was printed before Christmas-day, and we Vere therefore unable to acknowledge till now the kindness of those friends who sent proofs of their regard in gifts of fruits and flowers. Some of these forbid the men- tion of their names and offerings, and we must, though reluctantly, comply with the old rule of acting only on permis- sion in what we publish of the communi- cations of our friends. A. B. S., of Torquay, took us completely by sur- prise, for on Christmas morning we re- ceived from him two large boxes of flowers, gathered the day previous from his well kept garden. Such a collection of flowers gathered from the open ground at Christmas we never saw be- fore, many of them subjects that we Londoners are compelled to nurse with the greatest care; would that we could find space to name them, but we know not how to squeeze in all the papers that have been put in type for this number. From H. E. Montgomerie, Esq., of Syden- ham, we received a fine basket of Canadian apples, remarkable for beauty and fragrance. The varieties were — Fameuse, a medium sized apple with large eye in a shallow basin, and the colour intensely deep crimson, shading into streaks of delicate mauvy pink ; this apple has the flavour of a nectarine. Golden lieinette, less distinctive in cha- racter ; Bourassa, a medium sized russet- red fruit, with small closed eye, flavour peculiar and refreshing. Gloria mundi, in the best style of a picked sample of white Calville, a large, handsome, and superb table fruit. The best proof of our thankfulness shall be set forth in re- newed efforts to help our readers through their horticultural difficulties, and provide for them new horticultural pleasures. Red-hot Poker Plant. — G. Simmons. — The plant so described to you is Tritoma uvaria, and your friend's name for it is descriptive and appropriate. It is one of the grandest promenade plants we possess, and anybody can grow it. At Kew they display this plant in large beds in company with Canna Wars- cewiczi, and nothing can be more superb. Prepare for your plants a bed of sandy loam, liberally enriched with leaf-mould and rotten dung. If the soil for a depth of three feet down con- sisted of one-third part dung, it would not be too rich. Keep the plants in pots till April, then turn them out, give as much water as you like all summer, and you will have a marvellous bloom. Various. — Beginner will find all the infor- mation he needs in the Floral "World, and it will be cheaper to procure the set, which may be had in Nos. for 24$.. than to look about for books on special subjects, for there does not happen to be one in existence which gives just the in- formation you want. — Frizella. — Since the arrival of your second letter we sent the frond to Mr. Sim, and his name for it is Pteris scaberula. It is certainly more smooth than ordinary, but fern- growers do not think much of that. As the finding of this fern on the Eildon hills is not substantiated, we must still maintain the position taken at first, and believe that if found there, it was first planted there in order to be found. We are greatly obliged for your communica- tions on this subject, and we trust you will forgive us for publishing the name, on the ground that such a peculiar cir- cumstance required to be set forth with all the evidence properly belonging to it. Your Polystichum is one of the forms of lobatum of which there are many, which differ considerably in minor details. We had fine specimens of Veronica Andersoni out in the late frost, and they are literally cut to pieces ; the minimum was 16\ We have known them bear a minimum of 23" without harm when on a wall. — A. B. S. — Your fern is Todea pellucida. — R. Sanders. — The book to suit you is "Profitable Gardening," published at 3s. 6d. You need not send us a fee for a design for a rosarium, for if you wait a week or two you will find one to suit you in our rose book, which you can buy for a few shillings. If you buy seeds of hucksters and cornchandlers you must expect failures ; go to a seed- man who knows what he sells. THE GARDEN ©OiBE, Maech, 1864. CULTURE OP HIBISCUS. IBTSCUS is one of the Greek names of the — mallow, and the etymology of this genus 13 therefore strictly botanical, Hibiscus being an '"*- important member of the great natural order Malvaceae. There are upwards of 100 species of this genus, and tbey ail bear such a strong family likeness, that they may be readily identified, 3 at least as members of the genus, both by their leaves and ' flowers, by persons comparatively unskilled in botany. The genus is characterized by having an exterior many- leaved calyx ; carpels united into a five-celled capsule ; valve3 with the partition in their middle ; cells many-seeded, or very rarely containing only a single seed. A large propor- tion of the species are herbaceous, but a few are shrubby, and are found of great value, both as useful and ornamental trees. Most of the species abound in wholesome mucilage, and many are cultivated for the sake of the fibre yielded by their bark, which is used in various arts and manufactures. We shall treat of the culture of a few of the species only, selecting those which are the most ornamental, and there- fore adapted for the decoration of our plant-houses and gardens. Stove Species. — We begin with stove species, because these are the grandest in character, aud therefore the most worthy of special attention. They are mostly natives of the hottest parts of Asia, America, and Africa, generally found growing in rich soils and open, sunny positions, producing myriads of magnificent flowers, which are usually of very short duration. The stove species may be grouped into three classes, according to their respective habits of growth, as trees, shrubs, or herbaceous perennials. The following are noble species of the first class : — Borbunicus, native of Bourbon, yellow flowers ; 2Ethlopicus, native of Africa, purple flowers; Ferrugineus, native of Madagascar, scarlet flowers ; Lampas, native of India, pink flowers VOL. VII. — NO. III. D 44 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. IAlliflorus, native of Mauritius, scarlet flowers; JIutabilis, native of East Indies, changeable flowers ; Rosa sinensis, East Indies and China, red flowers ; Tiliaceous, native of East Indies, flowers yellow and rose. To grow these, the soil should consist of light, rich loam, with no admixture of peat, and whether grown in pots or borders, there must be effectual drainage, or the trees soon become sickly. If kept in ordinary stove temperature, and with what is understood as good stove treatment, these plants will occasion the cultivator but little trouble to grow them in perfection. The simplest and most effective way to deal with them is to form them into trees, with clean stems and open heads, by a regular course of cultivation. Young plants should be encouraged to grow to a reasonable height, without stopping, to have stout, straight stems ; they may then be stopped, and encouraged to throw out side-shoots, which are to be removed a few at a time, com- mencing at the base of the stem, and proceeding upwards, until the lowest branches of the head are reached. By this plan, strong straight, tree-like stems are formed; whereas, by suppressing the shoots, except such as are wanted for the head, the stem is likely to be weak and twisted. If an early bloom is desired, however, it will be best to allow the plants to grow in their own way, except to pinch back or shorten a shoot occasionally, to preserve a moderate regularity. All the tree kinds will thrive in pots, and the best time to shift them is immediately after they have done flowering. Let them first be mode- rately pruned back, and in the course of eight or ten days they may be turned out of their pots, a portion of the old soil removed from their roots, and repotted in the same or larger pots according to circum- stances. One of the most interesting of the arboreous species, is mutdbilis. This requires abundance of root-room, and is best planted out in a border of rich loam, and allowed to grow in its own way with very little interference with the pruning knife. It soon forms a mag- nificent tree, and will grow to a height of five and twenty feet if encouraged. When in flower, it is one of the most interesting plants of the stove. The flowers open in the morning a yellowish green colour ; in the course of an hour or two they become white ; at noon they acquire a tinge of red, and as the day draws to a close, they become a full bright crimson colour; after which, they quickly perish, and are succeeded by others, each individual blossom lasting but one day only. The most handsome of the shrubby kinds, are : Abel- moschus, native of India, yellow flowers. Bifurcatus, native of Brazil, purple flowers. Cameroni fulgens, native of Madagascar, red flowers. Ficuloides, native of Ceylon', yellow and purple flowers. Lilacinus, JSTew Holland, lilac flowers. Lindleiji, Burmah, purplish crimson flowers. Piilchcllus, East Indies, crimson flowers. Eosa Ilalabarica, East Indies, scarlet flowers. Splendens, New Holland, rose coloured flowers. Telfairioe, native of Mauritius, red flowers. Unidens, native of Brazil, yellow and pink flowers. The treatment of these does not o-reatly vary from that required by those previously described ; but, as a rule, they prefer a lighter soil and less root-room. The best compost for these is one consisting of two parts turfy loam, with one part leaf-mould, and one part tibry peat. These may be formed into very neat compact specimens, by carefully pruning in after flowering, and THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 45 repotting into the same pot.*, until they acquire such a size as to render it imperative to increase the root room. Lindleifi is a magnifi- cent species introduced from Ava, by Dr. Wallich, in 1838. It grows freely in loam and peat, and forms a handsome shrub, with light green three-lobed leaves, and flowering profusely all winter and spring; the flowers a brilliant purplish crimson colour, and three inches in diameter. Mctdoides; the fig-leaved hibiscus, will flower almost the whole year round, if the roots are cramped in a small pot, and the pot kept in the hottest part of the stove. All the stove species are easily increased by cuttings. For this purpose, take young shoots with a heel, and plant them in pans of sandy peat, under bell-glasses on a brisk bottom- heat, and they will root quickly. In all cases the young plants should be grown in peat till large enough to require 48-size pots, when they may have the compost required by mature plants. The stove herbaceous species require rather different management from the arboreous kinds ; they must have less water when the season arrives for them to die down, and at the same time should he placed in the coolest part of the house. As soon as they commence growing again, let them be shaken out and repotted in light rich soil. They require abundance of water while growing. The most desirable stove herbaceous specie3 are the following: — Crinitus, native of Burmah, flowers yellow and red. Speciosas, native of Carolina, flowers crimson, grows in marshes and hence requires an abundance of water while growing. Ftircatus, East Indies, flowers yellow. Jerroldianus, Brazil, flowers crimson, grows six feet high, and is a superb species. Manihot, East Indies, yellow flowers. GrREEXHOUSE Species. — The treatment recommended for the stove species is precisely that required for these, with the single exception that a lower temperature suffices to bring them to perfection. These are all of less vigorous growth than the stove species, but they are well worth adding to the choicest collections for the sake of their cheerful leafage and showy flowers. The largest of the group is Heterophyllus, from New South Wales, with white and red flowers. This forms a fine shrub, six to twelve feet high. Strigosus, native of South America, with rosy flowers, makes a fine shrub, eight or ten feet high. Peduncu- latus, from the Cape of Good Hope, flowers red, requires an interme- diate house, or if grown in an ordinary greenhouse, it must be kept rather dry all winter, and be well roasted in autumn. Richardsoni, from New South Wales, with yellow flowers, is a neat shrub, growing three or four feet high. Racemosus, from Nepaul, flowers yellow, is usually grown in the stove, which is too hot a place for it. It is at home in the greenhouse, and is, in fact, nearly hardy. In handling this species be careful to keep the hands covered if possible, for the stem is thickly covered with hairs, which, when pressed by the hand, occasion a sting- ing seu>ation. Gossypium and Grossularicefolia, the first with yellow aud the second witn rosy flowers, are useful species in addition to the foregoing. Hardy Herba-CEOUs Species require a wet soil of a rich mellow character. None of them are thoroughly hardy, and hence it is only in a few sheltered places that they can be depended on to survive a •severe winter if left out of doors. They are, however, valuable subjects for the decoration of the margins of lakes, and for gardens subject 46 THE ELOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. to be occasionally flooded, or that by reason of a low level are always damp. But unless the position is peculiarly favoured, the plants must be taken up and put in frames for the winter, or be protected in the borders by coverings of cocoa-nut fibre or other similar material. The best of the hardy herbaceous kinds are Aquaticus, native of Italy, white flowers. Grandifora, native of Georgia, scarlet. Palustris, native of North America, flowers pink. Rosens, native of Italy, flowers pink. Virginius, native of Virginia, flowers red. Moschatus, native of North America, flowers white and pink. These may all be increased by division and seeds. Hardy Shrubs. — There are only two hardy shrubby species. H. Wrayce, native of Swan Eiver, with purple flowers in October, is scarceiy hardy enough to be recommended for general use; but in the south and west of England it will be found well worth adding to a col- lection of choice shrubs, and should be planted in the sunniest position that can be found for it. H. Syriaceus is the well-known Alihcea frutex of the catalogues, and one of the handsomest hardy shrubs we possess. This will grow in any soil, and requires to be freely exposed in order to ripen its annual growths thoroughly, in which case it flowers most abundantly in autumn, and is a truly superb ornament of the shrub- bery. Ihere are at least a dozen varieties, all showy, and of precisely the same habit of growth, but differing in the colours of their flowers. The original species has purple flowers ; the variety albus has white flowers ; alius plants, double white ; marginatus, purple and white ; purpureas, purple; purpureus plenus, double purple; ruber, red; varie- gata has the flowers striped and spotted. To propagate these is a rather troublesome task. Cuttings taken in autumn, and put in the open border under hand lights, will generally be found well rooted in the spring. A more certain way is by layers. But the most speedy method is to graft the choice kinds on seedling stocks. The Althaea frutex has the most wretched appearance all winter of any tree in our gardens, and is very late in coming into leaf in spring. Hence it is quite unfit to place near the dwelling-house, or on the terrace, though, from its bold and brilliant appearance when in bloom, it is well adapted to occupy conspicuous positions in the shrubbery, and at angles and other similar spots among the walks of the pleasure-ground. PILLAR ROSES. The best pillar roses are those that I grow too fast and free. A moderate grow from six to twelve feet high, I growth with a superior style of and produce flow ers of a qnaliiy good flowers are qualities to be preferred in enough for exhibition. If climbing roses are used, the flowers will be of poor quality, though tbw first crop of Brussels Sprouts, Scotch Kale, and Savoy. Drumhead Savoy sown in February will now want pricking out, to get strong for planting as vacancies occur in the open quarters Fkuit Gaudkn. — Wall Fruits -are now ■pushing into bloom, and protecting material shou1d be put up at once, if not done already. We use Haythorn's hexagon netting, and find the large meshes as effectual as the small, and the price is considerably lower. Beware of coddling the trees by means of shelter. Sunshine and air are beneficial; it is frost that does the mischief. If any pruning or nailing has been neglected see to it at once. Graft ling may be commenced now; and as we are likely to have cold drying winds, be careful to clay and moss the insertion? securely. Flower Garden. — Balsams for bedding out to be sown this week. These need not have such high culture as those now com- ing on for early bloom in pots, as short, sturdy, slow-growing plants are required. Ba sains must always have a rich light soil, suffer no check, and be well supplied with water. Box edgings made now will do far better than in autumn. If the weather is dry after planting, keep newly-planted box well watered, as, if a few plants die, the unsightly gaps are not easily mended in the height of summer. Herbaceous Plants. — Continue to divide and plant the bordes. The early blooming kinds are now coining into flower, and may be propagated from cuttings as soon as the bloom is over. Liliums. — If these are growing freely in good turfy peat, a top-dressing of half- rotten cow-dung wdl now be beneficial. Give plenty of water, and take care the pots are not exposed to hot sun. Pansies to be pegged out in the style of verbenas, so as to display their bloom* over a large surface, and root if they please at every joint. For those who use pansies in beds and front lines, Magpie and Trent- ham Blue are two very valuable kinds; but they are not show flowers. Sow now to bloom during the summer. Roses — This is the best time to plant dwarf roses from pots. Plants from last year's cuttings may now be had in 54- sizei pots full of roots, and the Chinas and Hybrid Perpetuals will he sure to bloom freely in the autumn, if planted in a well- manured loamy soil. Rockerg. — This is a good time to buy in alpine and succulent plants for raised banks and rockeries, as their character can be seen in the foliage, and many will now be in flower. The majority prefer a sandy loam; but places should be prepared for such as love chalk or peat, so that several distinct features may be p-e>euted in vari- ous parts of the construction. For small gardens the saxifrages, varieg ted and other kinds of thyme, aubrietia, smaller THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 61 {i'Otentillas, and ssdum are the most useful. Choice kinds of alpines should be grown in duplicate in pots in cuse of losses, by which means they can be replaced. Conservatory. — Frequent changes should be made in this house, and as there are now plenty of things coming into bloom in the other structures, the task will not be found a difficult one. Re-arranging the plants will be found particularly bene- ficial to the hard-wooded ones, as they will not flourish long in a house of this descrip- tion. All soft-wooded plants may be suf- fered to remain till their bloom is gone ; but overcrowding must be avoided, and care must be taken to keep the foliage clean and healthy. Prune overgrown camellias. Oranges, citrons, camellias, and other plants now in full growth to have plenty of water and an occasional supply of liquid manure. Orchid House will require an abun- dance of atmospheric moisture now, and general attention to plants newly potted and those coming into seasonal growth. Cive water cautiously to such as are yet dormant, but encourage growth by sprin- kling water about the floors, and keep an average day-heat of 80\ The sudden out- bursts of sunshine, with dry, cold winds, at this time of year, frequently give rise to disease in the plants. Shading during mid-day may be used to advantage in fine weather, and as most of the stock is now in a growing state periodical steamings will be beneficial. Greenhouse. — Greenhouse plants are now in active growth, and require more than usual care. Green-fly and all other enemies will abound, and if not kept in check, irreparable mischief will ensue. See at night that there is water in the house to warm and soften for next day's use. Use the syringe among fuchsias, acacias, and other subjects that are now growing freely. Be careful in giving air that there is no chill, and regulate water- ing and ventilating by the weather. As soon as the weather gets warm and settled pass every potted plant through your hands to shift those that need it, top-dress tiiose not shifted, and to prune, train, and pro- pagate as occasion may require. Bedding Plants. — Keep the stock ■warm, and give little air. We shall soon have bright weather, when they may be more freely ventilated, to harden the wood and check their growth. Let nothing remain in the cutting-pans after forming roots, as every day beyond the proper time is a day wasted to the injuiy of the plants. Cuttings put in now will bear more heat than those put in a month ago, as vegeta- tion is more active with the advance of the season. There is plenty of time now to raise stock of verbenas, petunias, fuchsias, and lobelias, and they will bear a moist temperature of 75' to advantage. Young plants that want a shift to larger pots, and which are to be stopped to make them bushy, should be stopped first, and the repotting delayed till the side-shoots begin to break. ( apsicums and Tomatoes to be potted oil' and put in a moderate heat to encourage new roots. Use light rich soil. Toma- toes wanted early may be thrown into a blooming state by allowing them to get pot- bound in small sixties; as soon as they show for bloom shift to forty-eights; and when they fill those pots with roots, shift into six or eight inch pots. By this method a very early crop of line fruit may be se- cured in pots, and there is generally plenty of room to ripen them under glass after the end of May. In shifting none of the crocks should be taken from the roots, but the ball should be lifted without damaging a fibre into the pots they arc shifted to, and the compost tilled firmly round it. As the fruits swell use strong manure- water, and plenty of it. Dahlias at work will require to be potted, and those not set to work should be laid over a tank, or placed on dung-heat at once, to get strong plants. The dahlia- grower is, however, reminded that the gaiu in time by early propagating is sometimes a loss in the end. Geraniums that have been kept in pits, windows, and cool houses, in a rather dry state, now require pruning and a little water. If they cau be put in a warm house to give them a start, they will bloom earlier; but Tom Thumbs and other com- paratively hardy kinds commenced grow- ing long since. Those that are to be flowered in pots require a shift; those that are to be turned out into beds may remain in pots as they are. Pelargoniums now showing their trusses will need a little manure-water occasion- ally, and occasional syringing. Plants lately potted to be stopped as soon as their new growth admits of it, or they will soon become leggy. Strawberries under glass require frequent and liberal supplie* of water at the roots, and sprinkling over the leaves. They must also have something stronger than water at the loots occasionally while swell- ing their fruit; but manure- water should be withheld a few days before gathering. Strawberries in the open ground may now be heavily mulched, if not done already. Let there be no deep digging near them, and see that the plants are firm in the 62 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. ground. Plantations made now will give a moderate crop. Succulents are usually kept dry all winter, and have supplies of water in very small quantities as they commence their seasonal growth. Though easily kept in windows and ordinary greenhouses, they rarely flower unless they hare some special care at this time of year. If any of them want larger pots they should now be shifted, and the soil used should he a mix- ture of lime-rubbish, broken bricks, turfy loam, and a little cow-dung, with plenty of drainage crocks in the bottoms of the pots. As a rule large pots are not favour- able to their prosperity, so they should never be shifted unless the old soil is worn out and the plants have grown to a size out of proportion to the pots they are in. All the cacti and mesembryanthernnms, etc. etc., now stored on greenhouse shelves, should be dressed on the surface with rotten dung, and be placed over a moderate bottom-heat, with small supplies of water to set them growing. Plenty of light, plenty of water, when in free growth, and a generous temperature arc requisite to produce a good bloom. Orchard House. — Trees in bloom to have air in abundance. Some slight agi- tation among the blossoms will help to set them. Keep the air as dry as possible till the fruit is set, and while stoning be very careful not to let them get either too wet or too dry at the root. Trees swelling their fruit in the early house to be assisted with manure-water. Forcing House. — Use the syringe freely on fine mornings, to assist the swell- ing of figs, peaches, and nectarines. Figs will take more water now; peaches need liberal doses of liquid manure. Pinch in betimes where the trees are making a nice growth. Plums, pears, and cherries are impatient of heat, and should have the Coolest, and airiest part of the house. Pits and Fbames. — Cucumbers in bear- ing to be kept in gocd health by very careful ventilation and a steady heat, during dull weather water very sparingly, so as to allow of keeping them rather close. Those coming into bloom to be regulated very carefully, and the laterals stopped above the second joint. Thin the crop in time, if fine fruits are required; but where produce is more important than size and beauty they may he allowed to bear all that set, and they will be sooner over to make room for succession plants. A brisker heat in the frames may be encouraged now by linings: hut vermin will abound unless a sharp look-out is kept to fumigate when needed. Auriculas are now growing, and want frequent supplies of water and abundance of air when there is no frost. Piemove secondary trusses, and thin the pips in the trusses left to eight in number, t. king; care to remove those that are ill placed. Melons begin to require considerable at- tention to set the blooms; train the vines, thin out the superabundant growth, and ventilate cautiously. The more fully de- veloped leaves are better if evenly distri- buted, so as to have a fair share of light; leaves that are overlapped may be removed, and no side-shoots should he allowed to push which are likely to crowd the vines and rob bearing laterals. But the other extreme must be avoided; thin plants will never produce fine fruits, and none should be allowed to bear until they have acquired a robustness of character. The smaller kinds of melons may be very successfully grown in pots, and, if well managed, the fruit so produced is invariably handsome and finely flavoured. Pines. — Encourage fruiting plants with liberal waterings and atmospheric moisture. Take care the heat does not decline. Plants recently shifted require much care, especially to shade them during sudden bursts of hot sunshine ; and beware of giving them too much water while they are making new roots. Where the heat can be sustained without trouble in pits properly constructed, there is no plan so satisfactory as planting them out, or plung- ing the pots, and allowing the roots to run out into the bed. Vinehy. — Tines that have begun to swell their fruit will be much benefited by an abundance of atmospheric moisture, if the heat is kept steadj'. The thermometer should not go below 603 by night, nor above 80° on the brightest days; but 75° may be considered a good day average. In houses where the vines are coming into bloom there must be less moisture. As crapes begin to show colour more air must be given. Prevent crowding by stopping laterals, or removing them altogether where not wanted. One thing must always be kept in mind, and that is that every bunch of grapes should be shaded by its own leaves. Greenhouse Plants in Flower. — Havera rv.liafolia. — This is closely allied to Hydrangea, and requires similar treat- ment, but with the temperature of an intermediate house all winter. It is an evergreen under-shrub, and blooms at this time from cuttings of the previous summer. Its natural season of bloom is September. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 63 Berkheya cuneata. — A pretty Cape evergreen shrub, useful now for its yellow composite flowers. They are not particular about soil so long as it is sandy, and to bloom now should have been in an inter- mediate house since January. Boronia laUfolia. — This, and B. ser- rulata and B. pinnata, are truly fine plants, and the three are worthy of a place, as they are very different in flower and foliage from each other. They require much care, and are quite unfit for the collections of amateurs who are much away from home, or for gardeners who have many various duties. The soil should be peat and turfy loam without dung, and the greatest atten- tion must be paid to the watering, as, if water is given when not needed or in ex- cess, the plant will be likely to rot at the collar. These require the same temperature asBossirea, with a little extra heat inspring. They belong to the family of Rue-worts. Bossicea ovata, tenuicaulis, and cordi- folia. — These are not much valued, and, though we have ourselves always consi- dered them essential in a collection of New Holland shrubs, we cannot bestow upon them any high praise or venture to describe them as invaluable. They are, however, interesting, and will he most prized where they can be grown with heaths, as they require the same treatment as to soil, drainage, etc., but a warmer atmosphere. They will not bear a much lower temperature than 4CP in winter, and require a range of from 6CP to 70' during summer. To grow good specimens they must be frequently stopped. Their pea- shaped blossoms are abundantly produced if the wood is well ripened and the drainage kept open by the use of turfy peat, with a considerable proportion of nodules of char- coal intermixed. Callistemon phoiniceum, and mycro- staclu/um. — These beautiful myrtaceous shrubs are highly prized for their graceful long scarlet stamens, and when well grown are of the highest value for the conserva- tory and drawing-room table. The same treatment as described for Boronia will suit them, and, like Boronias, they do well with heaths, but require rather more warmth than is generally allowed to Ericas. Cantua dependens and hicolor. — These are shy and fitful, and sometimes refuse to hloom under treatment which the previous season was most successful. The soil should be peat and loam, and a few young plants should be raised every season so as to allow of the starving of a few old plants into bloom, and replacing them if after they are not thought worth repotting. From this time the plants should be en- couraged to grow in an intermediate house or the warmest end of the greenhouse. Those we have in bloom now were kept dry and cool till the end of January, then placed with camellias and azaleas, and the flowers come abundantly at the points of the shoots. We think the reason of its occasional failing to hloom is the insufficient ripening of the wood the pre- vious autumn. Keep it growing all sum- mer, and from the first week in August begin to dry it, and expose it to the full sun. When housed to be kept nearly dry, and at a temperature not higher than 40' all winter, till again started for flower. Chorozema Jfava, scamlens, and varia. — There are no New Holland plants more worthy of general culture than the choro- zemas ; they are all beautiful, and will repay for every care and attention be- stowed upon them. The proper soil for them is lumpy peat with plenty of fibre in it, and an addition of sand and small charcoal to keep it open and porous. These plants never root deep ; therefore wide shallow pots suit them best, as they like to root near the surface. The plants are dormant all autumn and winter, and then require very little water, and in start- ing them into growth at the turn of the year great caution should be used in water- ing. They are moderately hardy, and may be kept in any ordinary greenhouse with safety, provided the rocts are nearly dry. To ensure plenty of bloom in spring it is only necessary to have the wood thoroughly well ripened the previous autumn. Reds and yellows are the predominating colours in these pretty papilionaceous flowers, and the plants may be used in the same way as Leschenhaultias in grouping where light and graceful forms are requisite. Choro- zema scandens is a beautiful plant to train on a dwarf trellis in a six or eight inch pot, DctiMe-Jlmcerivff Beach. — There are now so many varieties of peach and plum with double hlossoms that a very large selection may be made, either for ordinary conservatory work, to give variety among hyacinths, camellias, and azaleas, or for the orchard-house, to add to the gaiety of the scene while the fruiting trees are in bloom. All these double-flowering kinds are as hardy as fruit-producing peaches, but take forcing much more kindly, as a fair expansion of their blossoms is all that is required of them. Mibbertia fexuosa. — The Hibhertias are not very showy, but useful for hanging baskets. H. grossularia;folia is the best for general purposes. Jlovea purpurea. — This and H. ilici- 64 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. folia and H. celsu nre most beautiful green- house shrubs. The culture is the same as for heaths ; no manure, and the soil chiefly turfy peat. To grow them well frequent stopping is necessary, as they are very apt to become le!r 6 38 5 6|6 355 716 345 8|6 315 9 6 29 5 10 6 27 5 116 25 5 12:6 23 5 13|6 20 6 14,6 18 6 15 6 16 6 16|6 13 6 17 6 116 18,6 9 6 19 G 20|6 76 46 26 06 23l5 58 6 24 5 55 6 25 5 53 6 26J5 516 27 5 48 6 28 5 46 6 29 5 44 6 30 5 42 6 31 5 40 6 216 226 Moon rises. Morn 28 27 21 5 45 16 5 47 6 13 6 40 7 7 7 36 8 10 8 50 9 35 10 27 11 23 After. Moon sets. Weather near London, 1863. Morn.! 10 OCloudy; very fine 10 55! Densely overcast ; fine After. 'Cloudless ; bright sun 1 15'Foggy ; hot; ther. 703 2 34 Slight fog ; fine, warm 3 59 Fine ; cloudy ; wind 5 23 Cloud ; fine ; rain 6 46 Fine ; cloud ; showers 8 7Frost ; clear ; sharp 1st 9 27|Hazy ; fine ; slight rail Exhibitions, Meetings, Anniversaries, etc. St. David St. Chad Wesley died, 1791 Day bieaks 4h. 48m. Coven* Garden Theatre burnt, 1856 4th Sunday in Likt Perpetua [1862 M err i mac and Monitor coutest, li. H. S. Hyacinth Show John Playiair born, 1748 10 42|'Jvercast ; fine, but cold j Twilight ends 7h. 51m. 11 50 Cloudy; rain; fog; fst.jDavid Gorrie, landscape gardener, Morn, i Fine ; sharp frost 0 53, Dense fog; fine; rain 1 47|Overcast; fine; rain 5th Sunday in Lent [died 1856 Klopstock died, 1803 [menced, 1852 Mausoleum at Frogmore coni- 10 13 11 18 Morn. 0 20 1 15 2 2 2 31[C'loudy; showers; wind Duchess of Kent died, 1SG1 3 8 Clear and cold ; clouds St. Patrick 3 39 Frost ; clouds ; fine Cambridge Lent term ends 4 5 Cloudy ; fine ; rain 11. B. S. Firat Spring Shotv 4 27 Rain ; fine ; wind JPalm Sunday 4 49,Boisterous ; fine ; dry M. L. Yilmorin died, 1862 5 10;Fine throughout [airProf. Kunth died, 1850 Foggy ; fine; frost National Gallery founded, 1824 Fine throughout [Josh. Priestley born, 1773 Fine; hot sun ; th. 69°|Good Friday Fine; cloudy; frost 'Charles Albert abdicated, 1849 Mr. 1'runimcnd, botanist, d , 1863 French victories at Cochin China Earthquake at Quito, 1859 [1862 N. W.Wickham died, 1846. MS. 5 32 5 52 6 If, 6 45 7 19 8 0 8 51 9 51 11 1 Fine ; cloudy ; fine Fine ; cloud ; windy Cloudy ; fine at nigbt Fine throughout Lighthazv clouds ; fine'R. Descartes born, 1596 [6*. Show Probable Weather, March, 1864.— Likely to he very wet during the first half of the month, thence to the end very changeable, with occasional frost. C5 NOTICES Tlie Journal of Botani/, British and Foreign. Edited by Bi.uthold Seemabt, P.H.D., F.L.S., etc. Robert Hard wick.— We much regret that our limited space compels us to attempt no more than tlie briefest possible notice of this work. It has been in existance fifteen months, and is now everywhere recognized as tlie proper means of intercommunication among botanists of all pretensions, schools, and degrees. Tlie editor is one of the most experienced an 1 far-sighted botanists of our time ; a sound scholar, and a traveller of highest repute. With him are associated the ablest and most, renowned botanists, not only of England, but of Europe ; and the result is that botany is fairly and fully represented, and every enlightened Sn- deavour for its improvement and advance- ment brought to the test of fair criticism, and, if needful, of earnest advocacy. Among the numbers before us is a full OF BOOKS. translation of Goethe's celebrated paper on the " Metamorphos s of Plants." Some of the historical papers that occasionally appear exhibit sound learning and a refined taste. The work is published monthly, at 2.?., and is illustrated with coloured plates. The Botanists' Chronicle, published at 28, Upper Manor Street, Chelsea, is a small monthly circular, conveying items of botanical news and contributions on British plants and their uses, etc. If unambitious it is at least useful, and being published at one penny, will be of special service to the humbler class of botanists. The Rose Book is the title of a new illustrated work on the cultivation of the Rose, by Mr. Shirley Hibbekd, F.R.H.S., which will be published in the course of the present month, by Messrs. Groom- bridge & Sons. The price will be five or I six shillings. TO CORRESPQ Selection op Show Floweus. — J. H. — If you intend to show sets of 4 and 2 among the subjects named, you ought to grow more in order to have extra strings to your bow. However, we gladly com- ply with the request. 4 Fuchiitts sii/gle, Bridesmiid, Earl of Devon, trie Lord Warden, Wiltshire Lass; 4 Fuchsias double, Universal, Sir Colin Campbell, Madame Cornelissen, Hercules ; 4 Cal- ceolarias, Ajax, Gem, Desirable, Excel- sior; 4 Scarlet Geraniums, Dr. Land lev, Beauty. Eleanor, Alfred; 2 of any class, Mrs. Pollock, Sunset; 2 Phloxes, Alice Allnin, Madame Van Houtte ; 2JPetunias, Eliza Matthew, Flower of the Day; 2 Buses, Madame Vidot, Comtesse Cecile Chabrilland. Forming a Fernery. — R. Q.— You could not obtain a com/jlete set of British ferns at any price, but the most complete set possible, such as Mr. Sims could supply, would cost you about £150. The varietie. of Scolopendrium alone would cost over £80 to have one plant of each. But B for a very few pounds you could have a selection of all the most useful, for such as the common Lastrea, Lady- fern, lilechnum, Harts - tongue, etc., Th : place selected is well shaded by trees, and eminently suitable for ferns. We would advise you not to bury any of the I butts and other pieces of rustic limber near tlie rojts of the adjoining trees, as there is frequently engendered laige quantities of the spawn of fungi by de- NDENTS. caying timber, and the roots of living trees are sometimes seriously damaged in consequence. Yon must ram the soil firm in all the larger spaces between the butts and roots, and grout it into the small crevices. The commonest stuff will do for this purpose. If you intend to grow any very choice ferns you must havepeat, butall the robust growing kinds will thrive in good yellow loam. If the loam is inclined to clay, mix with it a third part of cocoa-nut fibre refuse, or leaf-mould. Mr. Sims' " Descriptive Catalogue of British Ferns" may be ob- tained through the post by sending six stamps to him at Foot's Cray. It is the best trade list of British ferns, and of much more value than some of the ex- pensive books upon the subject. The best book on British ferns is " Moore's Handbook," published at 5*. by Messrs. Groom bridge and Sons. We have given so many lists of ferns that we must on this occasion refer you to previous issues. eds Gay in Winter. — II. B. — Reference to former volumes will show you that we have treated this subject at considerable length. Pei haps as the winter is nearly over, you may not now be anxious about the matter. But we advise you to pro- cure at once, and pot for use next winter, a few (say a dozen each) of the following shrubs — Erect-growing Chinese Arbor- vita, Pinus cembra, Pinus excelsn, Pinus monticola, Abies Khutrow, Laurestinus, Irish Ivy, red cedar, and green holly. 06 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Suppose you bad just a dozen each of these potted, you could at once plunge them in the nine pairs of beds, six of each in a bed, right and left all down, and make the beds gay till you can put flowers in them. Those we mention are kinds that are eminently adapted for the purpose, as they bear potting patiently and are of a lively character, and may be had cheap. Our own garden is always fur- nished in winter with such things, and we shall have to say something about the system shortly. The volume on "Garden Favourites" is out of print. The book on the rose will be published shortly. The Appeal. — Received for poor Botanist, W. G., £1; W. D. T., 10s. 3d; M. G., stamps, 2s. 6d.; D. P., 3s. 8d. We are not less grateful than our poor client, and we tender sincere thanks to those friends who have responded so gene- rously to our appeal. We now have the pleasure to announce that a sufficient sum has been raised to enable the reci- pient to enter into business; the money having been subscribed solely as a gua- rantee fund to secure the payment of the first year's rent, and the necessary fittings of a shop for the sale of botanical specimens. The subscription is there- fore closed. Trichomanes radicans. — Rosa. — All your failures with this rare fern, as well as ■with Hymenophyllum Tunbridgense and Todea pellucida, arise through giving too much air. We can call to mind all the difficulties we had to encounter in our early days of fern-growing, and how by degrees, and after much costly experience, we learned that the golden rule in grow- ing these rarities is not to give air at all. Plant as directed in the books, and add the rule we now give to the other rules you have on the subject. Turning Vines out of the House. — I intend building a 30-feet greenhouse, L and wish to grow grapes as well as plants, but I have always heard that they never do well together, because the vines require to be hardened by exposure for a couple of months in winter. I therefore propose to leave boles up the centre of the brickwork at each sash, and put a rod of each vine up and through the centre of the front wall-plate, also to have the front lights hung on hinges, with hooks inside and out, so as to hang on either side of the upright. When the lights are taken out, the vine- rods can be easily removed through the 4-feet opening, and tied under the spout, 6ecure from drip and ice, and the lights hooked on the inside, leaving the green- house free for plants without starting the vines. May I request your considera- tion of this plan and the benefit of any suggestions in your next number. — X [Not the slightest advantage will be gained either to your vines or plants by the plan you propose. By keeping your vines always within the house, the wood will become harder and riper than if ex- posed to the open air during the two or three dampest and darkest months in the year. You may cultivate graphs to perfection in a common greenhouse, and the worst inconvenience the plants will suffer will be, that the vines will be in leaf before you can safe'y remove them to the open air, and consequently, throughout the month of May, will have more shade than will be quite compatible with their well-doing. We would recommend you to cultivate none but the hardier green- house plants, give abundant air when- ever practicable, so as to retard as much as possible the breaking of the vines, and with proper management in other re- spects your plants will go on satisfac- torily. As soon as the shoots of your vines are fairly developed and showing fruit, a little fire-heat should be applied, lighting your fire about one o'clock in the day, and carried on till seven or eight o'clock in the evening ; at the same time, for the sake of your plants, giving abundant air. The application of fire- heat will promote the well-doing of your vines, and when your plants are removed to other quarters, an increase of heat may be applied, and the house kept closer, keeping the floor constantly wet, by throwing water on it several times in the day. Continue fire-heat and close treat- ment till the fruit begins to colour, when give more air, and the fruit and wood will thus become thoroughly ripe.] Various. — Miss K. R. — The iron hurdles may be obtained of Mr. Hawkins, Dale End, Birmingham. His address was given when the hurdles were described. J. Parsons. — Calystegia pubescens may be obtained of any of the nurserymen who advertise in this work. We never recommend dealers. You must have plants; it does not produce seed. Loam is intermediate in consistence between clay and sand. Most garden soils are called loam. The last question would be answered on the wrapper, if thought desirable to answer at all. — A. B. — Ask a cooper, or send the query where the other paper went. — IF. R. C. — Apply to Messrs. Hooper and Co., Coveut Garden, London, W.C. THE GABBSH GUISE. ut ten pairs, sessile, tri- lobed, sometimes 5-iobed, the pinna nearest the apex is usually bilobed, cordate at the base, coriaceous, having a cartilaginous margin, ulti- mate pinna trilobed. Rachis and stipes purple, being covered with a plum-like bloom ; stipes pubescent, with long and thin whitish scales, terminal, adherent to a short, creep- ing rhizome, which is scaly. Sori linear, continuous, indusium very narrow. — Lowe's " British and Exotic Ferns," vol. iii., p. 70. This is a rare and beautiful fern, a native of Mexico, introduced in 1841, and usually grown in the stove, where it does not attain perfection without demanding more tlian ordinary care. It is one of the most desirable ferns to cultivate, on account of its graceful habit, and unique character, The pinnse are set on the black rachis, like a series of hexagonal stars, and the fronds, which grow to a length of eighteen inches, have a graceful pen- dulous outline. The colour of the pinnae is a bluish grey-green, which, with the black colour of the rachis, give this fern, irrespective of its pecu- liar form, a character distinct from most others. To grow this fern to perfection, it is necessary, in the first instance, to remove it from the stove, and place it in a greenhouse which is kept tole- rably dry. It will not bear with im- punity either the heat or the excessive 98 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. moisture to which it must be subject in the stove, and thus it is, as re- marked by Mr. Lowe, and as proved by the numerous failures that occur in its cultivation, " less easily culti- vated than the other members of this lovely family." "We have never found the slightest difficulty in growing this fern so long as we gave it good green- house treatment, but in the stove it was always liable to red spider or the sudden decay of its fronds without apparent cause, and in the Wardian case it invariably perished of mildew bottom-heat, with moderately moist atmosphere, using only just as much water as will keep the soil moist, and taking care not to wet the fronds. In the course of a fortnight the plant will have begun to root into the new soil, and it may be removed to the greenhouse, where it should have a shady and rather dry position, and have only as much water at all sea- sons as will suffice to prevent the soil becoming quite dry, and never be watered on the fronds. Of course the water supplies may be increased 4**- PLATTLOIIA TMNIFOLItM. in the course of a hw months. To grow a good specimen, pot it at one shift from a small pot to a seven-inch pot, in w hich there must be two inches of drainage very carelully packed. The soil should be sharp grit or bricks pounded to the size tf peas, silver- sand, tough peat torn to pieces, the size of walnuts, and silky loam, equal parts. If there is any doubt about the quality of the loam, use three parts good peat and one part each of pounded bricks and silver sand. Pot iirm, and place the plant on a gentle during hot weather, when the plant is making free growth, but there must be a constant exercise of caution never to give water in excess. During m inter it ma j be kept almost dry, and if quite safe from frost, will never suffer Irom exposure to a low temperature. The propagation of this species may be effected by dividing the rhizome, for which operation the spring is the most suitable season. Or the spores may be sown on the surface of a pan of silver sand, which must first be pressed close and moistened. After sowing cover THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 99 with a bell-glass, and keep the sand moist by placing the pan when neces- sary in a shallow vessel, so that the sand can absorb sufficient without being disturbed. As soon as the seed- lings are large enough to handle, pot them singly in a mixture of half peat dust and half silver-sand, and keep them close and warm without sub- jecting them either to an extremely high temperature or to any excess of moisture. FERTILIZATION OF FRUITS IIS" HOUSES AND PITS. The necessary operation of ferti- lizing the blossoms of fruits grown under glass, is oftentimes overlooked by the amateur, if not by the pro- fessional gardener ; and the loss of a crop of fruit is often the consequence, especially if dull and damp weather sets in at the time the trees are in blossom. I some time back threw out a hint respecting the artificial " setting" of fruits in orchard-houses, and doubt not that those who acted upon it have now an abundant " set." Let them beware now that they do not fall into the opposite error of overcropping the trees, merely be- cause it seems a pity to destroy the young fruit : better destroy a part now, than all, and the tree into the bargain, hereafter. But the season being now at hand for the blossom- ing of the grape, my object in this paper is more especially to direct the attention of our readers to the desirableness of assisting the setting of this fruit also — especially the Muscat section, which 1 do not con- sider are to be relied on for a fair and even crop without it ; and I know that it is the secret by which some cultivators are enabled to show that noble variety the Cannon Hall Muscat in perfection, whilst others do not get half-a-dozen lull-swelled berries in a bunch. My plan is ex- tremely simple ; it merely consists in drawing the bunches very lightly through my hand twice a day for a few days, whilst the bunch is flower- ing, and afterwards give the stem a smart rap with the knuckles, to bring off the capsule from the stamens, and set the pollen free. The time for performing this operation may be known by gently shaking the vine, when the capsules that hold the' sta- mens prisoners will begin to fall ; then is the time to cautiously and gently assist them as above described. If the weather is dry and hot at this period, they will be found to part from the bunch freely ; but if gloomy and damp, it will be well to give the maximum amount of fire-heat allow- able, and also to withhold some of the moisture usually thrown on the floors, etc. That cucumbers and melons re- quire the aid of the cultivator to assist their setting, by placing the male or " false" blossom (divested of its corolla) within the fruit blossom, is, I presume, known to all. Yet, that is not sufficiently per- severed in, especially early in the season, I know to be a fact ; for ag it can always be seen when the pollen is exactly fit for effecting its im- portant office, it oftentimes happens that the first attempt proves abortive, and is only known, when too late to remedy, by the embryo fruit turning yellow, and dropping away. There- fore, it is safe practice to apply a second or third male blossom at in- tervals of a few hours to each fruit blossom that is wished should " stand ; " and this applies with greater force to melons, for unless a crop is set at once, one or two fruits taking the lead will prevent all the rest from swelling : and for this rea- son none should be " set " until a sufficient number of fruits show themselves for a crop in nearly the same stage of growth. Whitwell. H. HoWLBTT. 100 CULTIVATION OF ASTERS. The improved Asters which, have been introduced during the last few years have completely vindicated annuals from the charge of weedi- ness of appearance which has been so often urged against them ; and as the time is near at hand, when it will be advisable to sow the seed, our readers will, perhaps, not object to a few hints concerning them. To begin at the beginning, it is very important to get good seed, and in order to do this, it is necessary to pay a good price, and to have it from a respectable house, which will be a guarantee for the genuineness of the article purchased. Much, however, of the want of success with asters arises from sowing too early, and neglecting to give them sufficiently generous treatment, so that the seed often gets blamed when it is the management wbich is at fault. Asters should not be sown before the latter end of April or the beginning of May ; nothing, whatever, can be gained by sowing earlier, but much is likely to be lost ; for if they re- ceive a check during growth from a few days' extra cold weather, it renders them very liable to the attacks of green-fly, or any other i kind of vermin ; and after a sudden severe check of this kind, it is almost impossible ever to get them up to their standard of beauty. We have on an average of seasons, found the 20th of April the earliest date at which it was safe to sow, and thence, to the 10th of May, to follow with successional sowings, so as to extend the blooming period over the largest possible space of time. Those sown after the 10th of May, generally flower before they have acquired sufficient strength. Therefore, re- member first of all, that moist warm weather is most favourable to this tribe of plants. Many among our amateur friends look at the pictures of the beautiful varieties lately brought out, and then heave a half- sigh, as much as to say, " Ah, that is all very well in a nursery or in a picture, but it is quite out of the question for me to produce such flowers as those." Now, my dear friend, this is not by any means the case ; and if you will only give a moderate amount of care and atten- tion, you will have flowers this year which will be both a credit and a pleasure to you. They should be sown on a spent hotbed, or in pans or pots placed in a close pit or frame ; the plants will make their appearance in a few days, when you must give them plenty of air. When they are about an inch high, spread some fine soil over the surface of a slight hotbed, into which transplant your seedlings at a little distance apart, and let them remain there till they are three or four inches high. Now that asters are so per- fect in shape and quilling, and on every variety of colour, from white to a deep crimson and purple, a well- arranged set of them would have a fine appearance on a ribbon border or in a geometric garden, and would remain gay from the 1st of August, until cut down by frost. If, there- fore, you desire to grow them either in ribbous or masses, prepare the soil generously with old dung ; that which suits tliem exactly is a mixture of light sandy loam and rotten dung. When the ground is in good order, wait for a favourable opportunity, and after some nice showery weather transplant them into the border, and water them for a few days; should the weather prove very hot and dry, the watering must be continued, for if they get the least check through drought, the insects (which seem as though they were always waiting in ambush) will pounce upon them and claim them as their own. Should this misfortune occur, it will be ad- visable either to syringe or sprinkle with tobacco-water, taking care that some of it goes into the centre of each plant, when the enemy will be effectually dislodged. Supposing that it is desired to grow them for exhibition, the plants should be finally planted out for blooming in well-manured soil, in rows ten inches from each other. Keep them well watered during dry THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 101 weather, and quite free from weeds, stirring the ground between the plants occasionally until about the first week in August, when it will re- quire a good top-dressing of rotten dung from an old hotbed, and then a good soaking of water if the ground appears at all dry. As soon as you have given them the top-dressing, procure some small stakes and tie them up ; when the buds are suffici- ently developed for you to see which will make the best flowers, thin them out, leaving three or four to each plant. The flowers to be exhibited must be protected from the wet and from injury by the wind. Among the greatest enemies of the aster may be reckoned slugs, and in places infested by these pests it is somewhat a difficult matter to protect them. Lime is useful in dry weather, but its efficacy is destroyed by a shower, and so a more desirable way is to trap them ; this may be done by placing heaps of two or three fresh cabbage-leaves on either side of them, which will generally attract the rascals ; but, perhaps, the most effectual way is to take out a lantern at night and search the plants individually, when, with a little per- severance, they may be soon got rid of by this style of hand-picking. THE SPRING EXHIBITIONS. The second show of the Royal Hor- ticultural Society took place on Wed- nesday, March 30th, and no one was surprised to see a wet day, introduced by a snow storm, because it is the society's evil fortune to have bad weather for their shows as a rule, the fine days being quite the exception ; even the presence of Her Majesty, who had signified her intention of being present, had no effect, and the day remained dull throughout. The exhibition was ostensibly a camellia andrhododendron show, but there were scarcely any of either in the exhibi- tion, and those were not of first-class merit. The only really fine camellias were those belonging to the gardens, among them being a grand tree of tricolor, covered with blossoms. Mr. W. Young took second prize for a shabby collection. There was a nice display of cut camellias from Mr. Treen, of Rugby, which were deserv- edly awarded a first prize. Of rhodo- dendrons there was only one good lot, and that was from Mr. Young, gar- dener to R. Barclay, Esq., Highgate, and beside these there were none worthy of note. In spite of this, however, the show was no mean affair, but well repaid the visitor, as there were magnificent displays of roses, hyacinths, tulipsj azaleas, and miscellaneous plants, which made up a really fine exhibition. It would be impossible to produce finer collections of cut roses than were contributed respectively by Messrs. Paul and Son, of Ctieshunt, and Mr. William Paul, of Waltham Cross ; they were bloomed just to the point of perfec- tion, the colours were as brilliant as is possible to imagine, and they were put up with such exceeding good taste and skill, that each bloom not only appeared to the greatest advantage, but enhanced the beauty of its im- mediate neighbours. There were staged some beautifully grown speci- mens of roses in p'.ts, the best being those from Messrs. Paul and Son, of Cheshuut, and the next best from Mr. Turner, of Slough. Hyacinths were shown in large numbers, the principal exhibitors being Messrs. Cutbush and William Paul, who each sent a collec- tion of 100, for which they were awarded equal extra prizes, Messrs. Barr and Sugden. Mr. Youug, and Mr. Carr. A collection of azaleas from Mr. Bull, of Chelsea, gave evi- dence to the excellence of his mode of cultivation and good taste in staging. At the back stood a grand plant of Triumphans, measuring five feet from the rim of the pot to the top of the pvramid, a mass of bloom ; in front of that Queen Victoria, a perfect cone and quite solid, with its charming 102 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. white and faintly lilac striped flowers ; next Preclari, a diffuse bush, smothered with flame-like flowers, the colour a vivid tone of purplish lake, with deep lake blotch on the top petal ; Roi Leopold, clear salmon red, with blood-coloured blotch; Chelsoni and Etendard de Flanders, a charming white ; those well deserved the extra prize awarded them. Mr. Turner sent four plants of Bougainvillea spectabilis, in 7-inch pots, covered with the lovely mauve-coloured bracts, which render this plant such a superb stove climber. Chinese primulas were sent in excellent condition by Mr. Todman, gardener to R. Hudson, Esq., Clapham. Mr. Turner had a set of six nice forced pelargoniums, and was the only competitor in this class. The forced spring flowers fur- nished by Mr. Treen, of Rugby, were models of good culture, and richly merited the prize awarded them. A considerable number of genuine novelties were shown, which added not a l'tlle to the interest of the dis- play. Mr. Williams, of Holloway, had good specimens of Sarracenia purpurea, with purplish green pitchers and greenish yellow flowers, an un- attractive species ; S. Drummondi, a fine species, the leaves averaging 2 ft. 6 in. in length, ribbed with thin lines of purplish red, and opening to a wide lip, which, with the lid, is de- licately reticulated with green and pink veins on a white ground ; the flowers are brownish-red, and in their way as attractive as they are curious. Mr. Standish sent a new Eorsythia, completely covered with canary yellow bios oms : this plant will prove as useful for forcing as for the shrubbery. Mr. Early, of Digs- well, sent a seedling small-leaved begonia, called Digswelliensis, which produces large bunches of pinky red flowers, varnished on the outside, and with yellow stamens peeping out, lighting up the whole plant in a most peculiar and attractive manner. Mr. Bull had a most attractive collection, many of which have been already figured and certified. The greatest novelty in the lot was Dielytra spec- tabilis alba, with white flowers — a plant which will, no doubt, soon be- come very popular ; there was also a very pretty selection of new ferns, the most beautiful of which was Asplenium ferulaceum, which Her Majesty admired so much, that she had the bell-glass removed in order to observe it more attentively ; it is finer cut and more delicate than either A. diversifolium or A. viviparum, but belongs to the same section. The next best was Doryopteris alcyonis, also from Mr. Bull ; this is a hart's- tongue-looking species, from St. Catherine, the fronds elegantly sag- gitate, of a dark green, and with Pteris-like marginal sori. The second show of the Royal Botanic Society took place on Satur- day, April 9th, and was a successful exhibition in every reRpect. Nowhere else but at Regent's Park can be seen such excellent taste in arranging the subjects exhibited, nor so much atten- tion paid to the general effect of the whole display, as well as showing each separate lot of plants to the best advantage ; and this circumstance it is which renders these shows such invariable triumphs, and has made them the most popular of all flori- cultural displays. The azaleas lighted up the tent by their brilliant colours in an extraordinary manner, the spe- cimens sent by Mr. Turner being perfect specimens of good culture, and were so densely bloomed, that not a leaf could be seen. Messrs. Lane and Son took second prize, and Mr. Bull third. The amateur col- lections were all good ; but Mr. J. Cross, gardener to Sir F. H. Gold- smid, Bart., took first prize with six finely-trained specimens ; the second prize was awarded to Mr. Todman, and the third to Mr. W. Young. A pleasant change from the ordinary sugar-loaf style of growing azaleas was made by Mr. Turner, who sent ten plants trained columnar fashion, or like well-trained distaff fruit-trees, which were so laden with bloom, that there seemed almost too much upon them. Cinerarias were shown in abundance, and were of first-rate excellence, but did not differ in any notable way from those ordinarily shown in previous years. Mr. J. James, gardener to W. T. Watson, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 103 Esq., Isleworth, took first prize, and Mr. R. Marcham, gardener to E. Oates, Esq., Hanwell, second. Hya- cinths and tulips were sent in vast quantities by Messrs. Cutbusk and W. Paul, but they showed evident signs that the freshness of their beauty was rapidly departing. Stove and greenhouse plants were very good, the most remarkable specimen of all being a grand plant of Glei- chenia speluncea, from Mr. Williams. Mr. Turner sent six charming dwarf bushy pelargoniums, richly bloomed ; and, as a counter attraction to the glaring masses of colour to be seen on every side, were some fine pots of lily of the valiey, quietly sparkling in emerald green and snow white. New plants were largely represented. There were two new ericas, of fine quality. Messrs. Low, of Clapton, sent E. Halfordianum, with large finger-like blossoms, arranged seven, eight, or nine in each bunch, and all forming radii of a nearly completed circle, the colour of a light yellowish red, the tube highly varnished. Mr. Williams sent E. profusa, a species as fine as the last, and not greatly differ- ing in its characters ; the flowers are large, but are not set in such wheel- spoke regulai ity as E. Halfordianum ; the colour is light coral-red, the lips white. The variegated-leaved New Zealand flax, from Mr. Williams, will prove a grand plant for damp rockeries and for the conservatory. The in- teresting Streptocarpus Saundersi, with a lovely bunch of Gloxinia-like flowers, white, with bluish-grey eye, springing out of a large flat leaf, attracted much attention as a rarity of great promise : it was from Messrs. Low. The Azalea and Early Eose Show of the Royal Horticultural Society on April 30 was the most successful they have had this season, as the day was as fine as one of the most glorious in the month of June, which made the visitors flock in great numbers to see the display, which was uniformly good. The azaleas were magnificent and made the principal feature of the show, the exhibitors who gained the prizes at the Regent's Park a fortnight before being the most distinguished on this occasion also. The rosea formed the next most imposing fear ture, and were of such exquisite quality that the display at the forth- coming summer rose show can only exceed this one in quantity, as it is not possible to surpass the quality of those shown on this occasion. Messrs. Paul and Son and Mr. William Paul took first prizes and extra prizes, Mr. Turner a first and second prize, and Mr. W. Paul a second. Cinerarias were in perfection, the amateur col- lections being the best. Pansies were poorly represented — Messrs. Dobson, of Isleworth, having the best collection. Auriculas were not plentiful, but were good, and were grown with as much skill as was ever displayed in times gone by. Mr. Turner had two very beautiful collections, grown in re- markable perfection. Among the amateurs Mr. Potts, of Old Kent Road, was first, and Mr. James second, both lots admirably flowered, those of Mr. Potts having a remarkable fresh- ness and purity. The most remark- able novelty came from Mr. Williams; it was a plant of Xanthorrhoea Austra- lis, the celebrated grass tree of Aus- tralia. The growth of this remarkable plant (which belongs to the natural order Liliacese) combines the several features of the tree ferns, the grasses, and the rushes, and the result is a sort of sublimation of Bonapartea juncea. The swollen stem, consisting of the aggregated bases of withered leaves, is very rough and picturesque, and from its summit springs a mass of foliage of a most rush-like charac- ter, but which falls over most grace- fully, and gives the tree the character of a vegetable fountain. Bhotan and Sikkim species of rhododendrons were brought forward by various exhibitors in great perfection, and formed a most interesting feature of the show. The finest and most desirable spe- cies and varieties of the various sub- jects exhibited at the above show were as follows : — Hyacinths and tulips were of the same varieties as those mentioned in our last month's number. Camellias. — Chandleri, Chandleri elegans, Duchess d'Orleans, Imbricata rubra, Delicatissima, Picta 104 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. superba, Valtevaredo.Fimbriata, Tar- gioni, Rubens, Tricolor. Azaleas. — Prince Jerome (fiery red, very effec- tive), Beauty of Reigate (white, with lively red stripes and splashes), Coro- nata (rich carmine), Criterion (soft rose), General Williams (fiery red), Iveryana, Murryana, Chelsoni, Eulalie Van Geert, Prince Albert (deep dull red, finely formed flower), Queen Victoria (white, pale rose stripes), Sanguinea (purplish rose), Optima (fine red), Princess Marriana. Cine- rarias.— Lord Elgin (rich magenta self, dazzling), Perfection (white, with clear sharp purplish-rosy margin), Conqueror (fine mauve), Miss Frank- lin (broad rosy purple margin, dark disc, large and smooth), Miss Eleanor (snow white, with dull dove-coloured disc, most delicate and lovely, most desirable). Regulator (fine blue self), Viola (broad, bluish margin, white circle, dark disc), Admiral of the Blue (very dark), Dob son's Amy (pa- per white, pucy margin, dark disc), Queen Bertha (broad rosy margin, white ring, dark disc), Prairie Bird (fine cobalt blue, sharp thin white rinsr, dark disc, form perfect). Roses. — The new roses occasioned the great- est interest among the visitors. The best were Peter Lawson, Madame Alfred de Rougemont, Vainquer de Goliath, John Hopper, Le Rhone, Kate Hausberg, Louise Margottin, Alba rosea, Mad. W. Paul, Murillo, Mad . Valembourg, Comtesse Brossard, Bernard Palissy, Baron Adolphe de Rothschild, Sceur des Anges. Auricu- las.— Ensign, Othello, Traill's General Neil, Lowe's Maggie Lauder, Popple- well's Conqueror, Spalding's Metro- politan, Wariss's Union, Taylor's Glory, Douglas's Sir H. Havelock, Fletcher's Mary Ann, Strech's Alex- ander. BEACHVCOMA IBEKIDIFOLIA. This genus belongs to the Linnean class and order Syngenesia superflua ; to the natural order Composites, and second division of the third tribe, and first sub-tribe of that order. Asterce, the sub-tribe, are plants with star- shaped flowers — the genus under no- tice being, in its flowers, very like the common daisy, but different from that in its ha: it, being annual and shrubby, with a disposition to trail, or spread itself along the ground, and thus well adapted for beds or borders, where a low growth and a disposition to cover the ground are desired. It is a native of Australia, found in the Swan River colony, 1840. It grows in rocky places, the fleshy roots establishing themselves in the light mould which collects in the small hollows and fis- sures of the rocks ; and thus it makes a pleasant addition to the summer ornaments of artificial rockwork ; though it may also be grown in a bed or border, or in the greenhouse or windows. Excepting frost, it bears all the vicissitudes of weather in Britain; and as it is never exposed to frost, but when sown in autumn in order to flower early in the spring for ordinary cultivation, it may be treated in the same manner as the hardy annuals. The natural situa- tions in which it grows point out the soil in which it should be cultivated artificially. It should be a very light sandy loam, with a good drainage, so that the roots may not be over-moist at tho?e seasons when the plant re- quires little or no water, as over- watering is the chief danger to which the plants are liable, except too damp an atmosphere, which is equally in- jurious to them. Plants early sown must be pro- tected from frost while they are young, and from heavy rains at all times, unless that which answers to the rainy season in their country : and the season there is riot constant; there being sometimes two years with- out a drop of rain. With due attention to these very simple directions, the plant may be grown in a bed or border, or in pots or vases. As a bed and border flower, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 105 it may be sown in March, April, or May ; and thus the period of its flowering may be considerably length- ened by succession. When it is thus grown, however, the situation must be dry, the underground drainage complete, and the loam in which the seeds are immediately sown, light and loose, or otherwise the plant will not live. If intended for early flowering, in the greenhouse or window, or even out of doors, it must be sown in the latter part of the season, and pro- tected from the winter frost. For this purpose it should be sown in August or September, though it will do with later sowing than this. When thus grown in pots, these should be placed as near the glass as possible during the winter months ; for, though frost destroys it, it prefers rather a cool atmosphere with plenty of air. The seed should be sown in 48-sized pots ; and the young plants should be thinned out to four or five in each pot, in order that they may have room to spread, as that is the state in which they make the finest appearance. The reason why they ought to have little heat or moisture during the winter months, even while in a state of young growth, is to avoid over-stimulating the roots, which would bring on an unhealthy growth, and destroy the whole of the plants. If the directions we have given are observed, the plant is well worthy of culture, whether sown in the latter part of the season, for a greenhouse plant in winter and an early flowerer in the spring ; or sown in the spring, so as to flower late in the summer or during the autumn. Both these pe- riods may be considerably lengthened by sowing successions ; and as the pause between the autumnal sowings and the early spring ones may be lessened, if not obliterated, the plant may be kept in continual flower, with the exception of three or four months in the winter. When skilfully grown in a proper situation, this is a handsome plant- much more so than Diverslfolia, which is inferior in habit, with the petals white ; and though it has been eighteen years in Britain, it has never been held in much estimation. The eye only of Iberidifolia is white ; the petals, or rather the marginal florets, being purplish blue, of a delicate shape. When the plants have room to spread, they do not rise higher than from six inches to a foot ; and then, as they are free flowerers, they are delicately handsome, and form a good contrast with various other annuals, both up- right and spreading. A SELECTION OF FEENS. Twenty-five most distinct Stove Fekns. — Adiantum trapezi- forme, Alsophila pruniata, Amphi- cosmia capensis, Anemia collina, Asplenium Veitchianum, Drynaria morbillosa, Davallia tenuifolia, Glei- chenia hecistophylla, G. pectinatum, Gymnogramma chrysophylla, G. och- racea, Hymenodium crinitum, Lo- maria attenuata, Nephrolepis daval- loides, Nothoclsena nivea, Onychium auratum, Pteris cretiea albo lineata, P. tricolor, P. aspericaulis, Stenoch- lsena tenuifolia (climber), Thamno- pteris Australasica, Pleopeltis mem- branacea, P. longipes, Elaphoglossum brevipes. Twenty-five choice Ferns foe Wabdian Case. — (Those marked thus * are for suspending.) — Adian- tom assimile, A. cuneatum, A. setu- losum,* A. formosum, A. capillus veneris, Asplenium marinum, A. fa- bianum, A. viviparum, Camptosorus rhizophyllus,* Asplenium flabellifo- lium,* Acrophorus hispidus, Hymeno- lepis spicata, Asplenium attenuatum, Asplenium pinnatifidum, Diplazium radicans, Goniophlebium piloselloides, Doodia caudata, JSfiphobolus lingua, Nephrolepis pectinata, Onychium Japonicum, Platyloma rotundifolia, Polypodium plumula, Pleopeltis ter- minalis, Polystichum triangularum. 106 MAT, 1864.— 31 Days. Phases of the Moon. — New, 6th, Oh. 14m. morn.; First Quarter, 13th, 6h.21m. after. ; Pull, 21st, lh. 24m. after. ; Last Quarter, 28th, 9h. 21m. morn. Aveeages for the Month. — Bar. 29-934. Therm, max. 64", min. 42°, mean 53°. Rain 1*9 inches. Prevailing winds N., N.W., and N.E. Sharp night frosts to be expected whenever the wind veers towards E. Great increase in sun-heat this month. 1 2 3 4 [5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 IS) 20 21 22 23 21 25 20 27 28 2«J 30 31 Sun Sun rises. Bet3. h. m. h. 4 347 4 32 7 4 307 4 28 7 4 267 4 247 4 23 7 4 217 4 197 4 18 7 4 16 7 4 15 7 4 13 7 4 117 10,7 87 Moon rises. Morn. 2 13 2 38 3 5 3 4 4 5 6 6 59 7 59 8 59 3910 4 4011 8 42 After. 77 67 47 3:7 27 o;7 597 58l7 57j7 56j7 55 54 53 52 518 1 15 2 20 3 26 4 34 5 45 6 54 8 1 3 57 9 9 56,10 42 57jll 21 5811 52 OMorn. 0 18 0 45 1 8 1 34 Moou sets. Weather near London, 1863. 1 5 3 1 4 3 5 3 7 8 1 9 20 10 15 11 0 11 37 Morn. 0 8 0 33 0 56 1 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 9 10 28 11 48 After. 2 21 3 37 Eight days frost ; fine Fine throughout Clear ; cloudy ; fine Cloudy; fine ; clear Very fine ; shower ; fine Dry haze ; very fine Cloudy ; white clouds Cloudy ; dry haze ; frost Dry haze ; clouds ; fine Fine throughout Cloud; fine ; wind ; rain Rain ; drizzling rain Rain; showery; fine Cloudy and fine ; rain Rain ; showery, warm Squally ; fine, windy Cloudy ; fine Fine ; wind with rain Stormy ; trees bl. down Boisterous with rain Cloudy & cold ; frost Fine & cold ; air dry Fine ; white cloud; frost Fine throughout Fine but cold ; clouds Fine throughout ; frost Very fine throughout Fine throughout Cloudy ; fine Cloudy; fine; rain Cloudy ; fine ; very fine Exhibitions, Meetings, Anniversaries, etc. Rogation Sunday Day breaks 2h. 0m. Jamaica taken, 1695 Inundation at Lyan, 1862 Ascension Day St. John Evangelist Savings' Banks introduced, 1815 6th Sunday aftee Easter Easter Term ends Mr. Geo. M'Ewen died, 1858 Revolt in Sicily, 1860 Twilight ends lOh. 33m. Cambridge Easter Term divides James Veitch, sen., died, 1863 Whit Sunday Prof. Henslow, botanist, died, 1861 French Empire established, 1804 Crimean medals distributed, 1855 Royal Oxfords. Sort. Second Show Columbus died, 1506 R. B. S. First Great Show Trimty Sunday Battle of Ramilies, 1706 C. Linnaeus born, 1707 Princess Helena born, 1846 John Edwards, F.R.H.S., died,1862 Habeas Corpus instituted, 1679 Crystal Palace Great Show L. J. M. Daubenton born, 1716 Mr. Lovell, gardener, died, 1859 Chalmers died, 1847 Probable Weather, May, 1864. — In the early part of the month much rain, with wind, generally S.W. From 15th to 20th frequent gales and changeable weather, wind S.W. to N.W. ; thence to the end settled and fine, wind S.E. to S.W. THE GAKDEN GUIDE EOE MAT. Kitchen Garden. — Sow beet for a •winter supply. Thin beets already up, and if any gaps in the drills, fill up by transplanting the thinnings in showery weather. Sow Walcheren brecoli, col- lards, cauliflower, endive, kidney beans, lettuce, leeks, spinach. Plant out mar- rows; ridge cucumbers, capsicums, toma- toes, celery, and anything that may be strong enough from seed-beds of cabbage and winter greens. Top beans as they show flower ; earth-up succession crops of peas and beans, and dust them with soot or wood ashes. Flat-hoe between potatoes. Cabbage, Cauliflowers, etc., etc. — Hoe THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 107 between, to loosen the surface and destroy weeds. The frequent use of the hoe will obviate the need of watering in dry weather. It is only where the ground is allowed to bake into an impervious crust that kitchen crops suffer by drought. Cauliflower and brocoli will make finer heads and come in quicker with the help of manure water given liberally and pretty strong, with plain waterings to alternate. Sow cauliflower for late autumn use. Kidney Beans may be sown in the open ground now ; sow also a few in pots, to make good any that miss in the rows. Sow also in pots or pans sufficient seed of scarlet- runners for a first planting, to give an early supply. They will be a fortnight earlier in fruit than those sown in the open ground next week. The old scarlet-run- ner is the best for general purposes ; the best white is the Case Knife. Parslty. — Sow on a rich border, very thin, and cover the drill with tiles or stones for about ten days ; then remove the covering, and the parsley will be found peeping through. This plan hastens the germination of the seed, which is gene- rally very slow. Sow cucumbers, gherkins, peas, parsley, and spinach, according to anticipated re- quirements. Vegetable Marroivs and Ridge Cu- cumbers tOj,be planted out under hand- glasses on moderately warm beds. Dung three parts rotted will generally give heat enough, if not less than two feet deep; co- vered with a foot of good loam. If no con- venience to cover the plants for a few days after planting, wait another week, and meantime get the plants hard for the pur- pose. Flower Garden. — Annuals will re- quire thinning out, and the straggling kinds will be the better for topping. There are very few who know all that may be done with annuals by giving them a rich soil, plenty of room, and occasionally pinching out the points of the leading shoots. Bedding out. — Choose dull dry weather if possible, while the ground is moderately moist. Have the plants pretty dry, by withholding the water the day they are to be turned out. By watching the barome- ter, and getting all planting done just be- fore rain, much labour in after watering will be saved. Everything in the way of bedders may be put out now. Flower Beds are supposed to be turned once or twice during winter, and to be manured if necessary in spring. Sup- posing them to have had such proper at- tention, now is the time to turn the soil once more, and break the clods and make all tidy. But beware of making the ground over-fine. When muddled into fine powder with rake and hoe, it will either exclude air and rain from the roots of the plants, or if the rain forces admis- sion the soil will become a sort of paste. We are no advocates for raking beds to the fineness of peat dust, and would sooner see the surface rough with clods broken to the size of one's fist than looking as if it had been run through a sieve. Plant out lobelias, pentstemons, calceolarias, verbe- nas, and all the hardier kinds of variegated edging plants. If very hot sun, or very cold nights, shelter with inverted pots or branches, or if trouble and expense are not thought much of for the sake of an early bloom, hoop them over with tiffany, as tulip beds are treated. Hardy Herbaceous Plants that have bloomed should now be propagated. Take cuttings of double walls, alyssum, arabis, and Iberia sempervirens, the best of all the white-flowering plants for early bloom out of doors. Ivy does not generally figure as an item in garden calendars. But it may be well to remind our readers that now is the best time to propagate it ; the plants struck from young shoots now will have tremen- dous vigour if well managed. Now is the time to strike cuttings for the purpose of growing ivies to form umbrellas and canopies for use at fetes and festivals ; take them up in clean rods to the required height at which they are to be stopped to form a head. These should be grown from the first in pots, and never be put in the open ground until discarded for the purpose for which they were originally grown. Phloxes struck from cuttings now will bloom well in the autumn ; strong stools in the border will need thinning, to reduce the number of shoots to a few manageable leaders, which are to be staked neatly and separately. Phloxes are now being grown in pots, but are scarcely the best of sub- jects for that method, though it is conve- nient for showing, and enables the exhibi- tor to put up complete plants, which are always preferable to cut blooms when it is possible to show them. Roses beset with grub and green-fly, if neglected (as in too many instances they have been already), the first bloom will be worthless. There is no effectual process but hand-picking for the grub, and pure water used with force is the simplest agency against green-fly, and will vastly benefit the roses. Spergula planted this season will need P 2 108 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. constant weeding and rolling. Until the tufts join together, weeds of all kinds have their own way, unless kept in check ; but after it has closed and began to form a turf, grass is the only weed that troubles it. Established lawns of spergula need frequent rolling, and that is about all the trouble necessary to keep them in perfect order. If there are many worms in the ground, water with lime-water in damp weather, when the worms are near the surface, to get rid of them, as they not only injure but absolutely destroy this plant by throwing their casts up in the centres of the tufts. Orchid House. — This will now be gay with bloom, as many beautiful varieties are in perfection, rewarding one amply for all the care and attention bestowed upon them. The air must still be kept moist, but only in the morning, for if there is much moisture in the atmosphere towards evening the cold nights will cause conden- sation and drip, and some injury to plants will result from it. During bright weather shading must be used ; plants in suspended baskets may be taken down now and then, and immersed in water of the temperature of the house ; those which will bear cool treatment may be removed to the conser- vatory. Stove. — Sprinkle water frequently upon the pavement, to keep up a moist atmosphere, especially where begonias and other soft-leaved plants are growing. A single drop of water on the leaf of any of the variegated begonias will spoil its beauty, but atmospheric moisture they will absorb to almost any extent, if the tem- perature suits them. This is the best time to propagate a supply of Cannas, Begonias, Euphorbias, Justicias, Poinsettias, and other quick-growing soft-wooded plants for display during winter. Specimen plants to be assisted with manure water, and shoots to be stopped of all shrubby and branching kinds. Justicias especially should be freely grown now, to get the wood well ripened for a good bloom at the turn of the year. Greenhouse. — Aphis Brush. — The soft brushes sold for the removal of aphides are of great service wThere a few plants are affected and it is not worth while to fumigate, and it obviates that too common practice of crushing the vermin on the plants with the fingers. Pinks and auriculas are better cleaned by the brush than any other method. Asters, Stocks, and Balsams to be shifted frequently as required ; give them plenty of air and water, or they will be eaten up with fly. Hot weather will throw balsams into bloom if they are at all pot-bound or dry at the root ; and those not yet sufficiently grown and which are showing bloom should have the buds nipped out as fast as they show, and be shifted in rich compost to the next size, to encourage growth. Azaleas going out of bloom to have all the ill-placed shoots cut back, the trusses removed, the plants placed in a moderate heat, liberally supplied with water, and frequently syringed. Camellias have mostly completed their growth now, and require to be hardened. Though gene- rally placed out for this purpose, we are inclined to believe that where it is conve- nient they are best under glass the whole year round, as in the open-air the light is too strong for shrubs that naturally grow in shady humid places. Certainly the best collections everywhere are under glass at all seasons. Balsams and Cockscombs for exhibition to have a good shift in rich light soil, and a little extra heat to promote new roots. They must have abundance of water, to prevent green-fly, which is sure to attack them if they are starved. As they fill their pots with roots, give manure water, but not till the roots touch the sides of the pots. Balsams required very large must have the bloom buds nipped out as fast as they show, and the points of the shoots stopped, to cause them to break and form dense bushes. Bedding Plants to be got from under glass as fast as po-sible, to harden off in the open-air. Never plant immediately after removing from warm pit or green- house ; but let them have at least a week in the open-air, kept rather dry, and with some protection at night, in case of frost. Chrysanthemums lately struck to be potted off, and have a little bottom-heat for a week or ten days, and after that to be plunged in beds of coal ashes or cocoa- nut waste. Cuttings put in now will make nice shrubby plants by autumn, if well treated. When shifted to 60's, let them have a firm loamy soil, plenty of turf, and well-rotted dung, abundance of water overhead as well as at the root, and ex- posure to all weathers. Cinerarias to have a little sandy com- post placed around the stool into which the suckers will throw roots, so that when taken off they may be put into thumbs- singly at once, which is a gain of time and strength to the plants. As they are cut down and moulded, place them in a cold frame, and shade from mid-day sun. Circumposition is a method of propa- gating without removing the shoot to be- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 109 rooted. An incision is first made in the bark, say of a rose shoot. When that has healed, the shoot is drawn through a pot, which is fixed by some support according to the requirements of the case. The pot is then filled with light soil, and kept moist, and in about three weeks it is full of roots. The shoot is then separated from the parent plant by cutting it through close under the pot. Of course when the pot is placed some of the leaves and buds must be removed where the shoot is to be covered with soil. This is the best time to propa- gate by this method, and it is of great value to get plants on their own roots which it is difficult to strike by other ordi- nary processes. Reserve Plants. — There will be a cer- tain number of geraniums, verbenas, cal- ceolarias, etc., etc., left after the beds are filled, and these may be grown into speci- mens for keeping the houses gay, and to make good any gap* that occur in the planting. A few cuttings of geraniums of all the sorts in stock should be taken now and potted singly in thumbs, which they will soon fill with roots in a warm house, and form stocky plants for autumn bloom. Odds and ends of plant stock for which there is no immediate use should be placed out fully exposed to the weather, and the best material to stand the pots on is the cocoa-nut refuse, in which no insects will harbour. It is always sweet and moist. Forced Fruits. — Give air freely to these, or they will lack flavour and colour. Blouses in which fruits are forced should have the lights merely screwed on, so as to allow of their removal altogether when the weather permits, which it will now, and to the advantage of the crop, especially of peaches and cherries. Avoid that bad but common practice of laying in an abund- ance of wood, for instead of furnishing plenty to choose from at the winter pruning, it is more likely to furnish none at all, for the crowding of walls and trellises renders all alike soft and sappy. Lay in wood as required, and thin away all other growths, and you will get wood worth keeping, in- stead of a forest of mere spray. Peaches ripening to have as much air night and day as can be given ; if the lights are off all the better. Keep the atmosphere pretty dry, but the border must he moist while the trees are still growing. As soon as the trees show that they have made sufficient growth, assist them to ripen the wood by letting the bor- der get rather dry, and the more the sun roasts them the better. We have fre- quently advised the clothing of the lower parts of leggy trees by inserting grafts. Where that was neglected at the proper time, the object may be accomplished by inserting buds, which will now take directly. Vines. — Where crops are ripening, raise the temperature to a maximum of 90°, with a minimum of 6'5°. Muscats are worth nothing in a low temperature. Stop laterals, remove superfluous shoots, and on all the wood left, whether young wood or bearing shoots, let every leaf remain. The removal of leaves to admit light to the bunches, is almost as bad as putting the bunches in an oven to ripen them. Orchard House. — ■ Orchard House Trees are now swelling their fruit, and need the help of manure water. Use it rather weak at first, for fear of causing stone fruit to fall. After two or three doses, alternating with plain waterings, increase its strength. Stone fruits not yet beginning to swell should be kept without it for the present. As the mulch in the pots has now become dry and chippy, take it out, and replace with fat half-rotted dung. Use the syringe freely, and with force, to wash off withered blossoms ; give air night and day, and pinch in to the third or fourth leaf from the base all the side shoots, to cause a production of fruit spurs. If the shoots have g>t too far, and the thumb-nail will not cut them clean through, use a small knife or scissors. Wherever you see a curled leaf, search for the cause of it, and you will find either grub or fly, with either of which deal promptly. Vines to be again thinned in cool houses, and the operation accomplished without handling the beiries. Crops ripen- ing to be kept rather dry, and with a tem- perature not less than 90' with sun heat, and 65' by night. Pits and Frames. — Cucumbers in fruit may be kept going now by linings of grass mowings. We have for many years used grass mowings, mixed with dry straw and other such waste, in trenches on either side of the beds ; and though the heat is sud- den, fierce, and of brief duration when gra's is heaped up by itself, when mixed with dry litter it is more moderate and lasting, and one dressing will last well until the next mowing takes place to fur- nish a fresh supply. Melons in fruit to have less water as soon as the fruit begins to ripen. Let them have the full sun, no matter how it may roast them ; shut up early with a good heat, and sprinkle the leaves at the same time. Those lately pla:-ed out to have soil added to the hills as required, and linings if the heat declines. Do not allow fruit to swell until you have a good plant. As to setting 110 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. the blooms, we must conform o custom, and remind the gardener to perform the operation about midday in bright weather; but we begin to believe it a most unneces- sary trouble. We have had fine crops of melons on a border of a lean-to, and did not set artificially a single blossom. We left it to the bees, and they worked with vigour amongst them. Pansies. — This is a good time to strike cuttings for a good autumn bloom, and to secure pot plants of choice kinds to keep over winter for spring cuttings. The side- shoots and very young tops of the leaders root quickest, and make the best plants. Old stems that are hollow should never be used, unless the case is one of desperate necessity. Florists' pansies are generally grown in too light a compost, and hence there is often a lack of substance in va- rieties which in a firm soil are as stout as cardboard. Seed sown now will bloom in ten weeks, and afford plenty of time to prove them, and secure a few cuttings of the best. Pines to be shaded as little as possible, except those lately potted. Give plenty of air and plenty of water. Keep a brisk heat to succession plants. Pines for fruiting in autumn to have a bottom-heat of 90° by day, and 75' by night, with abundant moisture. Plants throwing up suckers to have liquid m inure and evrry necessary attention. In too many instances they are neglected at this stage of their growth, and the consequence is, that stock has been raised from poor weak suckers, instead of the strongest that the plants can make. Greenhouse Plants in Flower. — Andromeda floiiburida, and puloeru- lenta.— The first of these is well known as a charming white-flowering shrub for the conservatory, requiring the treatment of a heath, but ten time^ r.s much water. The other is of diffuse habit, bold shining foliage, and the flowers in large bunches of snow white, also fond of moisture, and the soil turfy peat or silky yellow loam. Aotus incema. — The pretty little shrubs of this genus require the usual treatment of New Holland plants, and do not pro- duce their leguminous blossoms freely, unless generously dealt with as to tempe- rature all winter. A. gracilis, lanigera, incana, and villosa are the best of them. Cytisus nubigenus, and laniger, are two useful yellow-flowered shrubs, for cool stove or greenhouse. The first forms a fine bush, six feet high, and is a fine object when in bloom; it requires warmth as it is a native of Teneriffe. The other is ne arly hardy, and there is a strong grow- ing 'variety of it called rigidus, which is useful for specimen culture. Chorozema Hugelii, Uenchmanni, and macrophylla, are first-rate for spring bloom. For culture see former notices. Cterodendron tomentosum. — One of the best greenhouse kinds, requiring warmth to bring it into bloom, and to be kept rather dry all winter. Soil, peat, loam, dry cow-dung, and a little charcoal. IScJtium giganteum is a greenhouse shrub of the class of Borageworts, from the Canary Islands. It requires ordinary greenhouse treatment. Soil, peat and loam ; plenty of air when growing. It may be got up to ten feet high if needful ; but moderate sized plants bloom freely, if the wood was well ripened the previous year. The blossoms are white. Echium petrcenm. — This beautiful blue- flowering bugloss is worthy of a place in every greenhouse for the vivid hue of its early flowers. It is quite hardy, but if grown in pots takes heat kindly, and likes a little peat and old mortar. Hindsia alba and violacen. — These pretty cinchonads from Brazil require only good greenhouse treatment in heath soil, and to be managed the same as Epacris. They will be found useful to give variety and interest among more showy occupants of the front stage. Datura Waymannii. — The best of the small greenhouse evergreen Daturas ; it grows to a height of two and a half feet, and forms a nice specimen if kept clean and in free growth early in the year. The flowers are white and purple, and abun- dantly produced. Nerium oleander is often seen in a bad state, many cultivators forgetting that it is an aquatic. Mr. Layard describes it as fringing some of the mountain streams of Armenia and Kurdistan, as os;ers do in this country. Moist bottom-heat and plenty of water are the chief requisites to the production of fine blooms, and without warmth and moisture it never can come to any good. PteJea pinnata. — A handsome green^ house shrubby trefoil, belonging to the natural order Xanthoxyls. It is nearly hardy, and requires same treatment as heaths, plenty of air, and merely to be pro- tected from frost. Sandy loam and peat is the right mixture for it, and cuttings may be rooted at almost any time in sand, with moderate bottom-heat. Sempervivum cmeutum, now in bloom, is a pretty succulent, flowers yellow and blood-red, requiring the ordinary treat- ment of its class. Struthiola ovata, — A pretty shrub of THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Ill the family of Thymelacese, requiring the same treatment as Cape heaths. It grows two feet high, and produces white flowers. Derchemia Jioribunda and lineata. — Rhamniceous twiners, now producing •white flowers in abundance. They are very nearly hardy, and are useful plants for an unheated conservatory. Bignonia capreolata. — We have had this festooning the rafters of an unheated lean-to, where it grew superbly in a deep border of loam from roasted turfs, mixed with old plaster and old hot-bed dung. All it needs is patience, and when it has made free growth overhead it is sure to bloom superbly. The flowers are scarlet. It is of no use in a pot. Clethra quercifolia. — An almost hardy Mexican evergreen Ericaceous shrub. In a warm house it blooms from the middle of April to the middle of May, the flowers white; the plant miy be got up to ten feet high, if a fine specimen is desired. Treat the same as Erica. Clianthus Dampieri. — This gorgeous glory pea of New Zealand leaves all others of its race far in the rear. It is strictly biennial, and therefore invariably perishes after flowering, so that a succession of plants should be secured. Quick growth is essential ; the slightest check causes an outbreak of red spider. Clianthus puniceus has been eclipsed by the more showy C. Dampieri, but it is still worth growing, and has stood the winter out of doors on south walls in several places in the south and west of England. The great secret of success with any clianthus is to grow it quick ; if they get starved, the red spider takes complete possession ; hence it is best not to show much favour to old plants Dillwynia juniperina. — So named on account of irs fine leaves ; it is one of the useful species of this genus, and produces an abundance of its yellow papilionaceous flowers, if well ripened the previous season. It requires the same treatment as a Cape heath, and will resent confinement and damp. Dillwynia sericea. — A charming Faba- ceous New Holland shrub, with showy orange flowers ; worth a place anywhere, and requiring the usual treatment of New Holland plants. Dillwynia speciosa. — A very showy species of one of the most manageable of the tribe. Though interesting and useful, it must be remembered that we have now such an abundance of plants in flower that Dillwyiiias are not to be considered pre- cious. Diosma subulata.— -This forms a hand- some shrub, if grown in a tough, fibry loam ; it is a common mistake to grow Diosmas in peat, which starves them, and makes the plants thin and sickly. With plenty of drainage and an airy place, it only needs to be well stopped to make a bushy plant three feet high, now covered with snow-white blossoms. Cuttings will strike now in sand under a bell-glass, and when rooted, should be potted into sandy peat, and at the next shift have half peat and half loam ; after that fibry loam only in a lumpy state. D. succulenta has thick leaves, and is less robust than the fore- going. Diplacus ghdinosus. — This and punicea are two capital mimulus-like plants for turning out into warm borders during the summer, where they make a gay show, and grow freely. D. glutinosus produces orange flowers, the other scarlet ; any ordinary good soil suits them, with the same treat- ment as mimulus. Euchilus obcordatus. — A useful green- house evergreen shrub, producing yellow papilionaceous blossoms, and requiring the same treatment as Gastrolobium. Soil, peat and loam. Eataxia pungens. — A pretty New Hol- land shrub, of the leguminous order, which makes a neat specimen when covered with its orange flowers. It requires warmth all winter, and otherwise must have the usual treatment of a C 'pe heath. Gardoqida mul- (flora —This is entered because it happened to be in bloom on the 22nd of May, as placed in the calendar ; but G. Hookeri is a better species. The present species produces purple labiate flowers ; G. Hookeri is scarlet. Anybody can grow them ; the only point of im- portance is to give it a shady place out of doors, or under glass during summer. Gastrolobium speciosum. — This is a first-rate yellow-fliwered Fabaceous plant, which requires and is worth go >cl culture. The soil should be old fibry turf that has been laying about some lime, with one- half yellow loam, and a fourth part of sand and charcoal, to be potted with an extra layer of crocks. To be the least water-logged is death to it. During win- ter a warm house is the best place for it, though, like the rest of the tribe, it is nearly hardy. Gompholobium angust, 'folium. — A good yellow-flowered papilionaceous New Hol- land plant,requiring awarm house all winter a very porous soil of peat, silver-sand, and fibry loam in lumps, rilled in between with potsherds broken almost to dust. If the drainage is in any way imperfect, they are sure to suffer. 112 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Grevillea acuminata.— Curious, if not over-beautifui, though the red flowers are abundantly produced all over the plant, and make a nice variation of character in a large collection. In a sheltered place, this is hardy enough to be planted out. JSabrothamnus elegans. — This is a plant for everybody, nearly hardy, and as easily kept and grown as a Cytisus or Veronica. When in bloom, the carmine flowers are truly magnificent. It is one of the best of plants for a pillar or conserva- tory wall, but needs shade during June, July, and August. Soil, turfy-peat one part, yellow loam two parts. Prune after flowering. Olea Americana. — This beautiful white-flowered olive forms a fine conserva- tory tree, if grafted on the privet, and is one of the best of subjects to plant out on a bank or broad border, in a large house, for the beauty of its foliage and profuse habit of flowering. 0. Dioica is a magni- ficent stove tree. TO COBEESPONDENTS. Catalogues Received. — " Sutton and Sons, Royal Berkshire Seed Establish- ment, Reading. Priced list of Clover, Grass, and other Farm Seeds." A con- venient condensed list, with spaces left for filling in the quantity required, so that it can be used as an order-sheet. — " Frederick Boshell, 86, High Street, Borough, S.E., Catalogue of Dahlias." A well-selected and reliable list, with a fine lot of novelties, printed on a large sheet in good clear type. The Ground Vinery. — At page 99 of Mr. Rivers's work, called " The Minia- ture Fruit Garden," Mr. Rivers says, "I have very recently planted some peach- trees in one of these slate-paved vineries, and feel assured that very early and fine peaches can be grown in such places. I have managed my trees in this way. I took two pyramids full of blossom "buds, cut off the shoots on one side, so that the stem would be flat, and then pegged it down with hooks made of stout iron wire, thrusting them into the soil between the interstices of the slates." Now, I have just made one of these ground vineries, five feet long, two feet six inches wide, and sixteen inches high, and have planted in it, resting on the slates one maiden peach, carrying only a single stem. This stem is about thirty inches high, and well clothed with wood buds for about eighteen inches from the graft upwards, and it has very weak laterals the rest of the way up, and the top is very weak. The buds are just beginning to break. Please instruct me how I am to train and prune this tree, so as to make it what Mr. Rivers calls a "pyramid." Upright Espalifb Pbars. — In the Floral World, speaking of the train- ing of trees in this form, you say : — " To form the tree it is requisite to begin vttb. a leader, and two side-branches. From the side-branches all the buds are kept pinched, except one left to lead on, and another to form a shoot for upright training. The next year two other buds are selected on each side, one to lead on and the other to form the next upright rod." What do you mean by this ? Do you mean that, when there is one up- right shoot and two side-shoots, the cul- tivator is to select, on each of the side- shoots, a bud to form the next upright shoot, and another to lead on ; and that he is then to cut back each of these side- shoots to the bud selected to lead on ? What is to be done to the first upright '? Is it ever to be shortened ? If so, when and how mucli ? Are the other up- rights to be shortened? If so, when and how much ? Vertical Cordon. — I have got some maiden pears, carrying one stem, and I want to train them like the "Vertical Cordon " named in the " Miniature Fruit Garden." This "Vertical Con- don " lias five upright branches ; each branch eight inches apart. Please in- struct me how I am to form this par- ticular "Vertical Cordon" with five upright branches. Mr. Rivers's instruc- tions are very " misty," and I cannot possibly make them out. — Fanny. [In forming the upright espalier, the top bud left is that which will take the lead ; consequently, the side-branches forming the base of the tree are every year cut back, so as to leave two buds so situated that one will push horizontally and the other vertically, the horizontal shoot serving to extend the base of the tree, the vertical shoot to be trained in and clothed with bearing spurs. All the summer shoots pushing where not re- quired are suppressed by pinching, so that there is no wild growth left to prune away except the horizontal and vertical rods which should be allowed THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 113 to push to any length the first season, as a free growth ensures stout wood, which the next season will form fruiting spurs. All the fundamental parts of a trained espalier should usually be allowed to grow freely in len<:th all the season, as they can be cut back to a proper length at the winter pruning, and the wood will be stout and ripe. The first up- right is never to go beyond the limits of the espalier, and all other uprights are to be allowed to grow to the same height. Hence, it and its fellows will generally require to be shortened back at every winter pruning. Page 48 of Mr. Rivers's -5th edition of the " Orchard House," you have a figtire of a peach- tree in a pot pruned so as to form a close pyramid. When the top-shoot has made five leaves, pinch out the top, and adopt the same plan with all the shoots below the uppermost one when two, or at the most three, leaves are developed. By practising this method, one season will be sufficient to form a close pyramid with a plant of tolerable vigour. When the laterals, induced by the taking out of the points of the shoots, have attained the third leaf, pinch out as before, and so for every growth that may be made in the course of the season. Precisely the same remarks will apply to the for- mation of the " Vertical Cordon." Let the same treatment in the way of pinch- ing, stopping, etc., be applied to eaeh of the three, five, or seven shoots, as the case may be, as to the one in the case of the pyramid. The only difference will be, at the end of the first year's growth, having secured as many shoots as you wish, bring down the shoots at the bottom, and curve them upwards, so as the tree may be open in the centre that the fruit and leaves may have all the benefit of a free circulation of air, thus : — FIG: t a is a strong peg thrust into the soil ; b is a tie of bast matting, securing the shoot at the point indicated, to the top of the peg, which should have a notch cut in it, so as to prevent the slipping of the tie ; c is a slight stake, suffi- ciently strong to carry the remaining part of the shoot into an upright position. Compare Fig. 1 with Fig. 2, the natural mode of growth without artificial inter- ference, and you will see the propriety of the mode of training indicated. TIG: 2. Queries on Roses. — S. X. Z. — The many questions you ask in reference to roses could not very well be replied to, unless we were to devote the whole of oar pages to the subject for some time to come. The months of March and April is the season for pruning roses in the open ground, and but few general rules- can be given as to the modes of prun- ing, which would be applicable to all kinds of roses. Moss, Provence, Hybrid Perpetual, and Bouibon roses require rather close pruning, leaving five to> eight eyes only on each main shoot, and observing this general rule to prune weak shoots more severely than strong ones, and weak growers more severely than strong growers. If these kinds of roses are not pruned every year, they become lanky and weak, and by pro- ducing their blossoms at the end of long thin shoots, the weight of the flowers bends them over, and when they should be at their best they are in reality at their worst, for they fall over and become a disgrace to the garden. Strong grow- 114 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. ing Noisette and China roses should be very moderately pruned, and climbing roses should be simply slightly shortened back and regula.ed, and occasionally an old rod cut clean away. Now is the best time in the whole year to turn small roses out of pots into the open ground. You cannot get " all kinds of roses from a good rose-grower on their own roots," because for the first few seasons of multiplying a new rose, Manettis are used almost exclusively for the sake of quick growth. Roses on their own roots should be pruned by the same rules as the same varieties on other roots. All the varieties of roses and all the modes of growing them are treated of at length in " The Eose Book," by Mr. Hibberd, which can now be had through any bookseller. — Q-. W. F. M. — The use of a mulching material on the borders of your rose-house, whether stable manure, or cocoa-nut fibre refuse, will be more likely to prevent than cause mildew. If you do not mind the ap- pearance of the manure use it by all means ; as to the smell that will go off in two or three days, and you might pre- vent the unsightly appearance of the manure laid on by a thin sifting of fine earth over it. There is no mulching material to equal cocoa-nut waste for cleanliness, for preserving the roots in a moist condition, and for resisting sud- den changes of temperature, and it has moreover a very agreeable appearance to the eye. There is, however, so little nourishment in it, that it should never be used where a feeding material is re- quired. Let us hear about your roses by all mean-1. We prefer close netting to shade a rose-house, as it is so little shade roses require. Divide your double primulas in August, choosing rainy weather for the operation. Camellias. — I have seven camellias which two months ago looked as healthy as possible, and most of them set well for bloom, but now they look as if they had been scalded. Will you tell me the reason, and what had best be done with them. I have all your books, and can- not find in them anything about camel- lias going off as mine have done. — W. S., Norwood. [You cannot find anything in our books about camellias going off as yours have done ! It would be a dis- grace to the fraternity of gardeners, and to some extent discreditable to ama- teurs, if it were often necessary to deal with such a case as yours, for your plants have, no doubt, been literally dried up, and will probably perish unless they have more water. We may suppose too that they are frequently shut close when the sun shines fiercely, and have thus been burnt. The only hope for you is to keep what is left of them well mois- tened with the syringe from day to day, and on bright days several times a day, and shaded from the fiercest rays of the sun. When they have completed their growth, set them out of doors entirely till the end of September, and if they do not set bloom-buds this year they will perhaps regain their strength, which will be something after such a season of affliction.] Vakious. — Polly*— There is no air cham- ber under the tray of the Waltonian ; a packing of flannel, or other non-con- ducting material, would no doubt con- tribute greatly to preserve an equable temperature for a longer period than the present method. The introduction of a coiled flue pipe to cany the heat of the flame through a greater extent of water will probably have this effect, that there •will be no heat to carry, the flame will not burn. Should it prove otherwise, we shall be glad to know from your experi- ments, but we cannot give you one word of encouragement, having a drstinct recollection of our own candle experi- ments, when it was often noticed a direct and short exit for the heated air was essential to keep the flame burning. — S. 2?. Walters. — One of Musgrave's smallest size slow combustion stoves would answer admirably for your house, 15 feet long, with high back wall. The pipe can be carried up through the roof without any damage to the house ; it only requires the removal of a square of glass, and replacing it with a sheet of zinc, cut to fit the flue pipe, and cemented round with putty. Our Musgrave did us such good service last winter that we shall have another word to say about it some day. For the present we can re- commend a straight zinc or iron pipe ; ours is in all 8 feet long, and the draught is perfect. — A. B. — A panel garden is sunk below the general level of the ground, so that the flowers are either seen from a higher level or you have to descend a step or flight of steps to reach them. The plant you inquire about is Juniperus sabina. — S. H. G. — Your pretty yellow spring flower is Doro- nicum Mexicanum. — Mr. B., Upper Norwood. — Thanks for the seeds.— T. T. W. — We can only think of " Profit- able Gardening " as likely to suit your wants. There is really no such book in existence as you inquire about. THE June, 1864. CENTRADENIA EOSEA. ENTRADENTA ROSEA is a plant of graceful habit, with curious copper coloured leaves and rosy- •^ white flowers, which blooms iu the stove at all ^ seasons, but is most prized for conservatory deco- ration in the late autumn and early spring months. It is a stove evergreen shrub of small growth, which, like many other useful subjects usually ( ^^~^ ^-> ^V grown in the stove, may, with proper care, be J) V^^ajjPy-' made amenable to warm greenhouse treatment ; and it is therefore the better adapted to be applied to the various decorative purposes for which plants are required in the collections of amateurs. If there are qualities in some plants which give them precedence in the favour of lady cultivators, Ceutradenia rosea may be pronounced as decidedly a lady's plant, and one of the most desirable objects to place on a pedestal, or iu a conspicuous place apart from the general collec- tion of plants on stages, as its distinctness of colouring and graceful outlines are seen to the fullest advantage only when it is isolated and placed as nearly as possible on a level with the eye. Centradenia belongs to the first suborder and first subtribe of the great natural family of Melastomacece, having for its associates in the division of the order to which it belongs, Lavoisiera, Brachycentrum, Bcrtolonia, Sonerila, Sphcerogyne, and other genera of stove plants which are held in high estimation. All the Melastomads have a regular corolla of four or five divisions, the petals being inserted at the base of the lobes of the calyx, and the stamens inserted with the petals in two ranks usually differing in form and size. It is a family especially rich in plants with grand foliage ; in the first section we have, besides Centradenia and other genera just mentioned, the magnificent Sphcerogynelatifolia, and in the fourth section Gijanopliyllummagnijicum, the two most magnificent in respect of foliage of all known stove plants. VOL. VII. — SO. VI. G 116 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. If we mention, as conveners of Centradenia, such genera as Pleroma, Lasiandra, Melastoma, Osbeckia, JfonocJicetum, and Medinilla, we shall have said enough to show that this pretty plant has very respectable relationships. Propagation. — This is one of the easiest plants to propagate by means of cuttings, and the operation may be performed at any season the whole year round. But it is not advisable to disregard the time of year and the condition of the plant to be cut from, for these circumstances have much to do with the relative vigour and beauty of the specimens to be formed hereafter. When only green succulent shoots can be obtained, as may happen in the case of having them as a gift, very great care is required to root them. But the best cuttings, and those alone which should be used when the cultivator can choose for himself, are those taken from firm ripe wood of the previous season. The usual mode of striking cuttings of stove and greenhouse plants must be resorted to ; pots or pans filled to within two inches of the rim with a mixture of equal parts fine peat and silver-sand, and then to the rim with silver- sand alone. Insert the cuttings — the shorter the better — in the sand, and water gently to settle them, put bell-glasses over, and place the pots on a gentle bottom-heat where they can be shaded from sunshine; when they have made root remove the bell-glasses and let them get moderately hardened for a week, then put them in small pots, using- equal parts of leaf-mould, fibry-peat, and silver-sand. The mixture for potting need not be sifted ; it is best to break up the peat and leaf- mould as small as hazel-nuts, then mixing them well with the sands use it rough and fine together, closing in round the tender roots with the most dusty portions of the mixture, water freely and place on bot- tom-heat in the shade again for four or five days, and then remove them to a shelf near the glass in the stove. Koutijs'e Culture. — Some cultivators keep them growing in the stove the whole of the first season, a system which we prefer, so as to take full advantage of the initial vigour of the young plants. But they ought to have somewhat of a rest in the latter part of the summer, by being taken to the greenhouse for a few weeks ; but they should not be put out of doors or exposed to any harsh treat- ment, such as withholding water or placing them in a draughty place. In September or October give a shift to the next size pots, and place in the stove. The compost for this and every subsequent shift should be equal parts hazel loam, fibry peat, leaf-mould, small nodules of charcoal, and silver-sand. This will be very light and porous, and the roots will rejoice in it. At the end of March again take them to the greenhouse, which will result in a more moderate growth than if they remain later in the stove, so as to obviate the necessity of stopping the shoots, and they will flower the better for it. Shade slightly during the months of May, June, and July ; after July let them be fully exposed to sunshine, and'thev will form an abundance of flower-buds and have fine heads by the time they are taken to the stove again. Eemove some to the stove again in October, others may follow in November and December, and a few may remain in the greenhouse, where they must have the warmest end. With such treatment a profuse winter bloom will be produced, and the plants will occasion but little trouble to keep them in health THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 117 and vigour. The cultivator may take his choice of various systems of management. Old plants left to grow as they please — if not starved outright— will be nearly always in bloom ; but they will bloom more densely and beautifully if subjected to a regular course of pruning and potting. As soon as the flowering is over in spring, cut back moderately or severely according as you wish for large or smill plants; merely shortening the points of all the shoots will suffice if the plants are not threatening to outgrow the space allotted to them. As soon as the fresh growth is breaking freely, turn them out of their pots, remove the greater part of the soil from their roots, and repot in the same size pots or one size larger, shortening the roots very slightly. If the roots are severely injured the plants will never recover. WATER SCENES. At page 260 of last year's volume, an attempt was made to convey to our amiable and affable correspondent " Jemima," some useful infor- mation on the formation of water scenes. We doubtless said sufficient then to enable Jemima to sketch out for herself a design, and deter- mine for herself the position and nature of the intended consecration of a site to the nymphs and naiads. We are gracefully reminded by her, in a note which diffuses through our sanctum sweeter odours than are wafted in through the open windows from the lilac and hawthorn blossoms, that though we had said enough to enable her to direct the gardener, who had directed the labourers, who by this time have dug a hole and filled up the stuff to form banks and braes, still the subject is not yet exhausted ; and it may be supposed that the matters that so much interest Jemima, may at the same time interest other readers. I think I may venture to say that water is rarely used to such an extent as it might be, and should be, in English gardens. Frequently the abundant supplies of water on an estate are looked upon as a calamity ; the owner frets himself to find outlets, the legislature comes to the rescue with a drainage act ; and oftentimes when the drainage has been effectually diverted away from the place, it is discovered that it might have been put to better use than to swell the woodland rivulets and add to the volume of a stream which contributes to the wealth of lands miles away by means of many such injudicious contributions. I have in my mind now a property which I was engaged to lay out, and where I was per- mitted to indulge my taste freely in forming a beautiful scene. While I was scheming to carry water away from the land, and carrying out great drainage works for that purpose, the engi- neers were at work on the highest part of the ground boring an artesian well. Every one to his trade, the landscapist must drain, drain, the engineer must bore, bore ; one is getting rid of the very element the other seeks, and the proprietor who pays for the work simply occupies the position of a means of separation be- tween agents that ought to work together, and according to one plan, from the first. It is true that land needing drainage must be drained ; it is true that water stagnating in the soil is like so much poison; but 118 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. having once persuaded that water to move in channels provided for it, having guided it into small pipes, and thence into large mains, and thence into lakes, ponds, and outlets, ought we to dismiss it at the boundary, lose it for ever, while the domestics are perhaps crying out against the scanty water supply, and the proprietor contemplates sinking another well in hopes of the second being less intermittent than the first ? Generally speaking, the economy of country houses in respect of water may be likened to the act of a farmer who should pay fifty shillings a quarter for imported wheat, and, at the same time, give the produce of his own farm to the fowls of the air, and yet, after all, should persevere in growing wheat, that he might continue to waste it in the same manner. It is said that all possible ranks of industry are filled up, which is equivalent to saying that human invention is exhausted. I can see here, having made this quite superficial remark on the paradoxical manage- ment of water on landed properties, that there is ample room and verge enough for any thoroughly competent and ingenious person to make a fortune by the establishment in country houses of economical water- ^#*' works. In many private houses small gas-works are in operation, but there are many substitutes for gas, and there is no substitute for water. When you have a great supply of water by surface drainage, the only question of its conversion to tank water for domestic purposes is one of pure mechanism, and a mere beginner in engineering could devise plans for the appropriation of every drop at such a comparatively low rate of cost as should, in many instances, render well-sinking and boring most ridiculous. Let us suppose a property to be completely drained, it is a mechani- cal matter to collect the water somewhere ; a mechanical matter to take it from thence to any higher level if there is anywhere near a moderate fall, whether natural or artificial. Even the water used to afford mecha- nical power to the ram need not be wasted ; and, having got a ram to work, the water may as well be carried to the top of a house or the top of a hill or tower, as to any level midway between such extremes. The next business is to make this water subservient to utility and ornament at one and the same time. The quantity which can be kept THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, 119 flowing, and the volume of the reserve, on which the works will have to rely during a long drought, must to some extent determine the nature of the ornamental purpose to which the water may be applied ; it may some- times furnish a cascade, and send silvery spray through a rocky glen clothed with myriads of mosses and ferns, or furnish a little spring or fountain to splash over a stone into a nook full of freshness, and thence flow to the lake again, or to fill the tanks which supply the garden. It must never be forgotten that the disposal of water-scenes demands the exercise of great taste and judgment. "Water of itself is always beautiful, but its association with objects of interest enhances its beauty, and supplies also the justification of usefulness. Where the space and circumstances admit, water should always be enriched by plantations ; clumps of trees, rustic buildings, rockeries, and belts of shrub are appropriate accessories; but they must be adapted in style to other surroundings, and the general character of the place ; and there is a certain point at which to stop in the work of embellish- ment, or the whole affair may be overdone. Architectural fountains and the accessories of terrace water-works may be complicated and elaborate, but whenever water is allowed to expand to show its gleam- ing surface beside green turf and trees there must be breadth ; the eye must be free to range in some one direction over lawns or other open spaces, in order to render the thickening of sylvan scenes and the con- fusion of bush and brake the more agreeable where the water is con- ducted away from the dressed grounds and made subservient to true rusticity. What a charm would be imparted to many a garden where 120 T£E FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. a still pool, "mantled o'er with green," reproaches the proprietor with neglect, by the introduction of a clump of trees and a garden -house, or by the appropriation of oue bank to a bee-shed looking south, and a summer retreat in the rear, facing in the opposite direction, where the bees would neither harm nor alarm anybody. Picturesque objects in the vicinity of the water double themselves on its surface, and the shadows and reflections are alone sufficient compensation for the cost of the work when the arranging and grouping have been managed with real taste. For any of our readei'3 in want of a pictorial hint on the sub- ject, we give a sketch from the grounds of a friend, who, in constructing a garden-house to occupy a spot beside a pretty rill, succeeded in effect- ing an exact reproduction of Cotton's fishing-box near Hartington- on-the-Dove, to the delight of many brethren of the angle, who occa- sionally assemble there to make a clinkling of glasses. S. H. THE SPBING- EXHIBITIONS. South Metropolitan Auricula Society. April 25th. — One of the principal features of attraction at the recent flower shows was the fine spe- cimens of auriculas, which have been produced in such very superior style, that they attracted more attentiou from the public than has been vouch- safed to them for many years ; and will, no doubt, materially assist in reinstating the auricula in the hi„rh position of public favour which it at one time occupied. The South Me- tropolitan Auricula Society was esta- blished two years since, for the pur- pose of bringing the flower promi- nently before the metropolitan public, and the exhibition ou April 25th, gave good testimony that great im- provement had been made, although the productions were still far short of what may be considered the fair capabilities of the flower. The prin- cipal exhibitors were, Mr. James Butcher (the originator of the So- ciety). Mr. Pink, and Mr. Potts, of Old Kent Road ; all of whom sent excellent specimens, most of which were well-known old varieties. There were, however, some very good seed- lings »hown by Mr. Butcher, many of which were promising flowers, but none of sufficient merit to render them worthy of taking a place in the first rank. Mr. Butcher had some pretty examples of polyanthuses, the best of which were, Milkmaid, Ma- donna. Princess of Orange, Bouny Bess, Bernard's Formosa, and Black and Gold. Hoyal Botanic Society, April 30th. — This was the last spring show, and was certainly one of the beat of the season, and a great credit to all concerned. With this show was combined the annual exhibition of the National Auricula Society, under the management of Mr. Dou- glas, of York ; aud the number and beauty of the flowers shown, together with the spirited competition for the various prizes offered, added very considerably to the interest of the exhibition. The flowers were ex- quisitely beautiful; some of the esta- blished kinds being in extraordinary fine condition. The most attractive, and most beautiful stand of auriculas, was the collection of twenty-five put up by Mr. C. Turner, of Slough, these were awarded an extra prize. The varieties were — Green edged ; Stretch's Alexander, Campbell's Ad- miral Napier, Cumming's Oliver Cromwell, Hudson's Apollo, Smith's Sir W. Wallace,011iver's Lovely Ann. Grey edged : Headley's Superb, Cap- tain Barclay, Jeffrey's Sir H. Have- lock, Turner's Mr. Marnock, Tur- ner's Earl of Shaftesbury, Moor's Violet, Traill's General Neiil, Back- low's Morning Star. White edged: THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 121 Lightbody's Fair Maid, Lightbody's Countess of Dunmore, Lee's Bright Venus. Selfs: Spalding's Bessie Bell, Turner's Negress, Turner's Shakes- peare. Martin's Eclipse, and Martin's Mrs. Sturrock. In the Royal Botanic classes for six, Mr. Turner sent a grand lot. which obtained tlie highest prize offered. They were, Reid's Miss Gulding's, fine bold eye, solid paste, purple ground, good grey edge, smooth and well proportioned ; Spal- ding's Metropolitan, Moor's Violet, round eye, rattier thin paste, ground a lovely shade of rosy violet, rather rough, a charming flower; Spalding's Blackbird, Lightbody's Fair Maid, one of the finest auriculas in the show, its glittering mealy leaves ren- dering it very attractive, large eye, broad solid paste, dull maroon ground, good edge. Mr. Potts, of Glengall Grove, Old Kent Road, was another successful exhibitor, his flo- wers being in remarkably fine con- dition, and Mr. J. James, gardener to W. F. Watson, Esq., Isle*-orth, and Mr. James Butcher, of South Street, Camberwell, had some good flowers. The National Society's schedule was framed with great judgment, so as to give the fullest possible interest to the selections exhibited. In the class for eight dissimilar varieties, Mr. H. Steward, of York, took first prize with Fletcher's Mary Ann, Meteor Flag, Smith's Waterloo, Lightbody's Countess of Dunmore, Traill's May Flower, Beeston's Apollo, and Con- queror; all very fine. 2nd, Mr. C. Turner, of Slough, with Headley's George Lightbody, Smith's Ann Smith, Smith's Lycurgus, Martin's Mrs. Sturroch, Olliver's Lovely Ann, Campbell's Robert Burns, Spalding's Bessie Bell, and Turner's Buckstoue, like Conqueror of Europe, with smaller eye and broader paste. In the class for four, Mr. Richard Headley was first with Colonel Taylor, George Lightbody, Napier, and Mrs. Stur- roch. 2nd, Mr. Polhman, with Ga- ribaldi, a bold self, good circular eye, paste rather thin, ground blackish purple. In the single specimen classes, Mr. Douglas was first with Countess of Wilton, grey edged; Mr. Turner was first for white edge, Taylor's In- comparable, and also first for speci- men self, with Spalding's Metropoli- tan. There were several new auri- culas of great merit shown. Turners Webster is a fine self, like Othello. Jeuniesou's 3Irs. Jamieson, has a large circular eye, blackish maroon ground, green edge, a substantial and finely built flower. Turner's Shakespeare has a small good eye, firm paste, deep mulberry ground, a great beauty. Turner's 3Ir. Marnoch, large circular eye, fine paste, dark ground, bold grey edge. Turner's JBucJcstone his a bold circular golden eye, solid paste, blackish, purple ground, good grey edge, and grand truss, *nd was the finest auricula in the show, the judges deeming it worthy the premier prize. Hoses. — These were shown in grand style, and made the finest feature of the show, the specimens in pots forming a huge bank of sur- prising loveliness and fragrance. Messrs. Lane and Son had the largest plants in the show. Mr. Turner's col- lection were smaller, but were very refined in character, the foliage being remarkably fresh and abundant, and the flowers disposed with admirable symmetry. These two exhibitors were placed equal first. Mr. William Paul was second, with very good plants, and Messrs. Paul and Son were third. The principal varieties were Duchess of Sutherland, Paul Ricaut, Paul Peiras, Souvenir d'un Ann, Baronne Prevost, Comte de Paris, Madame Cambaceres, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Comtesse de Cha- brilland, Madame Charles Wood, Madame Damaizin, Lsslia, Madame Boll, Senateur Vais3e, Catherine Guillot, Victor Verdier, Charles Law- son, and Comte de Nanteuil. Azaleas. — There were some very fine specimens trained both pyramid and bush fashion, the chief exhibitors being Messrs. Turner, H. Lane and Son. and J. Dobson and Sons. Foliage and Flowering Plants formed an important part of the show, and were produced in fine style. Mr. B. S. Williams had the best col- lection, which consisted of Gleichenia speluncse, Yucca aloifoha vanegata, Azalea alba magna, a mas3 of bloom, 122 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Erica Cavendishii, Cordyline indi- visa, and Cypripedium barbatum superbum. Messrs. A. Henderson and Son were second, and Mr. W. Young, gardener to E. Barclay, Esq., Higbgate, third. Pelargoniums. — There were some fine collections of show varieties from Mr. Turner and Mr. Wiggins, among them being beautiful plants of Canopus, Phoebe, Dr. Andre, Eugene Duval, Orion, Sir Colin Campbell, Rosabella, Princess Mathilde, Pline, Madame Corbay, Amazon, and Madame Heiner. Pansies. — The collections of cut flowers were of great merit ; Mr. J. James sent a stand of twenty -four, all of which were models of beauty. They were, Jeannie's Rival, Lord Cardigan, Baronet, Banger, Gem of the West, Rev. H. Dombrain, White Lady, Perfect Model, William Austin, Prince Imperial, Arcturus, Flora, Thos. Martin, Queen, Ladyburn Beauty, Chas. Turner, Beauty, General Young, Sarah, Lord Palmerston, Cupid, Miss Muir, seedling very much like Lord Palmerston, but darker ; and Vesta. Messrs. Dobson and Sons and Mr. W. Bragg also had very beautiful collections. Novelties. — Messrs. Veitch sent an interesting hybrid Cattleya, inter- mediate between Epidendrum auran- tiacum and Cattleya Skinneri. Pri- mula cortusoides amozna, from the same firm, is a charming addition to our spring llowers, and an improve- ment on the old form of P. cortu- soides. Clematis regince is a fine hybrid, with large flowers of a bluish lilac colour. Mr. Bull sent a charming zonale geranium called Eve, the leaves being marked with a dull zone, the flowers a soft tint of rosy pink, ono shade lighter than Christine, and the trusses much finer in carriage and proportions. Petunias, Holland's Pet and Crimson Gem, from Mr. Wil- liams, are fine flowers, the form ac- cording to the type of all the seed- lings of this careful breeder, the colour of the latter being a deep, rich ruby. Euonymus Japonicusfol. argen- tea major, from Mr. Bull, is one of the best of the nearly hardy varie- gated shrubs, being a glittering mass of silvery-margined leaves. Collinsio verna, from Mr. W. Thompson, of Ipswich, is a valuable addition to our spring flowers, as it produces myriads of blue and white flowers in April, the effect of which, when bedded out, is similar to that of Lobelia Pax- toniana. EOSE GOSSIP.— ~No. 7. Feom the middle of May to the middle of June is the best time for planting roses out of pots. The earth has usually becomeof a genialwarmth, well calculated to induce immediate growth ; danger of injurious frosts is passed, and occasional showers assist the plants to get well hold of the ground and to make an effectual start. Eorthe assistance of those who require tomake good the ravages of winter, or to com- mence the formation of a rosery at this season, I have, therefore, appended a list of the best kinds for such purposes, which will be found to include several varieties introduced so recently as during the past year ; they are as follows :— Hybrid Perpctuals: Anna Alex- ieff, Baronne Prevost, Beauty of Waltham, Charles Lefebvre, Comtesse Chabrilland, Due de Rohan, Due d'Anjou, Duchess of Sutherland, Francois Lacharme, General Jacque- minot, Jean Goujon, John Hopper, Jules Margottin, Le Rhone, Louise Darzins, Madame Bruni, Madame Charles Wood, Madame Clemence Joigneaux (a most robust grower) Madame de Cambaceres, Madame Domage, Madame Knorr, Madame Laffay, Madame William Paul, Ma- dame Therese Appert, M. de Mon- tigny, Mrs. Elliott, Praire de Terre INoir, President Lincoln, Prince Ca- mille de Eohan (worth risking on ac- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 123 count of its dark colour), Senateur Vaisse (not equal to General Jacque- minot as a town rose), Vainquer de Goliath, Victor Verdier, Vicomte Vigier. The Bourbons are Baronne Gonella, Catherine Guillot, Emotion, Louise Margottin, Souvenir de la Malmaison. The Teas are Gloire de Dijon, Devoniensis, Narcisse, Com- tesse Ouvaroff andTriomphe de Guil- lot fils are under trial this season, and both being strong growers, I am sanguine they will do well. I am less conudent of Gloire de Bourdeaux, a seedling from Gloire de Dijon ; I fear it is not a free bloomer. Our modern florists, like the an- cient Athenians, appear ever desirous of seeing or of hearing about new things. This desire for novelty, com- bined with merit, is a powerful in- centive to all improvements. Ac- cordingly, I dare say my confreres in the love of roses will not be uninte- rested in the little information I can give about the novelties for the season, some of which have already displayed their pretensions to the floral public. Upon collating the catalogues of our largest importers of new roses from Prance, I find not less than sixty odd candidates for our insular patronage. Besides these are the beautiful Eng- lish seedlings of Mr. William Paul, and also one announced to be sent out in the autumn by Mr. Cranston of King's Acre. It is highly gratifying to enthu- siastic aspirants after perfection in the rose to find our own most eminent florists devoting their energies and skill to the improvement of England's special flower. Beauty of Waltham, concerning which a somewhat tart controversy has been going on for some weeks in the columns of a con- temporary periodical, is already well known, and its merits widely acknow- ledged. Mr. William Paul believes that he has in this rose the parent of a new race of really hardy roses, des- tined to displace many beautiful kinds which have become so delicate in constitution as to be scarcely worth cultivating. Princess of Wales, to be sent out this month, is the most important of the novel strain. I have seen it, and can safely recommend it as a most promising kind, in every way deserving trial, without which no collection can be considered com- plete. Bed Bover is also another of the same class, not double enough for a show rose, but a free and rapid climber, blooming very late, and likely to prove an acquisition in that respect, especially to rosarians in the neigh- bourhood of towns. I shall be able to describe these seedlings more fully^ when I have criticised them out of doors — at present my opinions have been necessarily formed upon exami- tion of the forcing house. It is always a hazardous and con- jectural undertaking to speak upon the really new roses. At this period the produce of small, forcedplants only can be brought under review ; and even such persons as have seen them in bloom at the Prench nurseries, have done so under such different conditions to those under which they will be cultivated here that their ver- dict is liable to be totally reversed. Viewed from their aspect, I believe the best of the new foreigners to be the following, which are given alpha- betically, the reader being referred for detailed descriptions to the growers' lists. Hybrid Perpetuals : Alpaide de Rotalier, Bernard Palissy, Gabriel Peyronny, Kate Hausburg, Madame Soupert,on account of its being white ; Madame Victor Verdier, Mareschal Porey, Pavilion de Pregny, that is if it answer its description, in which case it would be novel ; Senateur Reveil, Le Geant, described as the largest rose grown ; Vicomtesse Doug- las, a sport from Baronne Prevost, an origin much in its favour. Bourbons : Madame de Stella, and Henry Dom- brain are likewise promising varieties. Upon Teas it is particularly unsafe to prophecy. Lays seems fair, a light yellow, and Alba Rosa, from De- voniensis, described as good ; I am not quite certain whether this is of 1863-64. I cannot refrain from a passing re- mark upon the outrageously absurd nomenclature bestowed by Gallic raisers upon their progeny. The less educated among the gardening tribe must be sorely puzzled by such names as " Triomphe de Villecresnes," 121 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. " Docteur Vingtrinier," " Gloire de Sacre Cceur," "Pavilion de Presjny," etc. Simplicity in this as well as in more important matters of taste is not only a cnarm but a convenience. The unprecedented weather, acting upon the well-ripened wood of last season, appears to have produced an unusually early development of growth and bloom, promising a dis- play of flower sufficient to gladden the heart, and satisfy the desires of the most insatiate gluttons of floral beauty. The only drawback up to the present time has been the pre- valence of that intolerable pest the black grub, whose ravages must have already decimated the rose beds. It will be difficult at present to foretell what effect the weather will have upon the shows if they take place about the usual time. It would seem that the first period of bloom, at many of the rose grounds, must have passed by be- fore the period for exhibition arrives, especially on light soils. This will, however, offer a chance of carrying off the prizes to growers upon the heavy lands — of late years such have not been up to the mark in time. — This 21st of May I have a few blooms of Gloire de Dijon, Lord Pal- merston. Victor Verdier, and Prince 0. de Rohan out, with many more coming on ; and a neighbour has an- ticipated me by a fortnight with Gloire de Dijon, Jules Margottin, and Gene- ral Jacqueminot on a south wall. As a final admonition to purchasers L would recommend them to have large and established plants : chances of failure wdl be diminished, and effect sooner produced. Most of the great nursei y firms keep half sjeci- mens in pots, at a small advance in price on those usually sold in 6U's or 43's. It will be better to have one such plant than two or three of the smaller size. W. D. Peiok. Homcrton, May 21. JUNE WOEK IN THE EOSE GAEDEN. Hating proved the possibility of planting roses in any week or 1he whole year, we may now remind our readers that this is as good a seat-on as any for furnishing a rosarium, though it is not usually so regarded or described. There are many blights that affect the rose, but the greatest of all is the nursery system of propa- gation. How many of the rotes planted last autumn are now poor scrubby things, like worn out mops, or puny imitations of dwarf busies that refuse to grow, and when their flowers appear it is with some twist of the bud that indicates constitu- tional weakness. JNevertheless, tor plants carefully worked on young lusty briars or Manettis, and duly pinched in when forming their first shoots, the autumn is the best time for planting, because all winter the roots are at work, and a good sum- mer bloom is the proper result. But suppose a man with a passion for roses has just made up his mind which of the new ones he will add to his collection, or suppose a new garden where it has been tremendous hard work for months past to get things in order, and the season ordi- narily used for planting has been lost, it is not too late now to plant roses in either case, and we will ven- ture to say that under certain cir- cumstances it is the best season of the w hole year. There is one thing certain about roses planted in April and May from nursery pots, and that is that a good many always perish, though there are ie^v writers who have the courage to acknowledge it. People order in so many of such and such roses. The plants arrive in due course, and very shortly afterwards they are turned out to take all chances of v\ t ather. 'I hey were perhaps worked 1 on Manettis during winter trom forced plants and forced stocks, and to meet the demand in spring were sent out before the juuction of the two barks THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 125 had been fully effected, and being tender through having been " push- ed," they are quite unfit to endure the assaults of the weather in cold ground, and with occasional morning frosts ; and, par consequence, some of them die, some stand still a few weeks and then grow with vigour, and some linger between life and death, and are never worth the room they occupy. The Manetti is a good stock, but it is made the worst by the system of forcing to which it is subject in the nursery mode of pro- pagating. The roses are manufac- tured to sell, and about nine-tenths of them are very different to plants worked in summer-time, on stocks io the open ground. When these die we may blame the possessor ; when death happens to the pot plants sent direct from an atmosphere of 70°, and warranted fit for immediate planting out, we must blame the system by which they are manufac- tured and the strength driven out of the plant by stove treatment. " But there are no others to be got," so says the rose amateur, who burns to complete his lists of selected varieties, and to whom the ** new roses " are as important as the new fashion in bonnets to a blushing belle. Unfortunately that is almost true ; the new roses are hurried into size for sale, and when sent out there is something of a plant to look at, and very often much more to look at than the price would lead one to expect. There the purchaser must take his share of blame. The trade cannot get up new roses on their own roots at the price which compe- tition fixes, and the hunger for cheap things causes amateurs to prefer plants at three to five shillings each, one-third of which are scarcely worth having, rather than pay a shilling or so more and have plants fit for any purpose, with the vigour of tneir own life in them. Witn old roses the only excuse for working them on Manettis in a forcing temperature is to produce them wholesale at a cheap rate ; and without opening again the question long since settled, we have only to say on this subject that when roses are advertised it should be stated what their roots consist of, and before people order them they should inquire what roots are obtainable, and as a rule give the preference, and an extra price, for roses on their own bottoms. Stocky plants in 60 or 54 sized pots are to be had all the year round, and this is as good a season as any in the year to plant them out for beds of dwarfs, whether on their own roots or Manettis. If they have been pushed during the early months of the year, the ground is now warm enough for them to take to it at once, without any long process of harden- ing; and the conditions essential to success are to obtain plants that have filled their pots with roots, or that (if worked) are healed at the junction, to plant them in well-manured soil, eighteen inches or two feet apart, according as they are moderate or robust growers, and to give them plenty of water during dry weather all the season. You remember well the disastrous season of 1860, when it rained, rained, rained, as if the world had been doomed to suffer another deluge for its sins. The first bloom of roses that year was magnificent. The rain just suited them ; it is evident that the frequent recommendation to give roses plenty of water, especially over- head, is no figment of the imagination. Now the work of the season among roses consists first in giving them abundance of water. Tne drier and hotter the weather, the more are they infested with fly. The more rain, or the more artificial rain from hydro- pult or engine, the less will they be troubled with this horrible pest, and if sent through the heads of standards with some force, every aphis will be hurled to limbo, and the bloom buds will plump up by absorption, and give richer and larger blooms. We have advised hand-picking for the grub, and never was it more needed than this season. Now the enemy that awaits them is fly, and though water is not poison to it, plenty of water and plenty of aphis rarely go together ; one must give way ; and it is the rose-grower's business to see that the fly is kept down by a process 126 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. which enhances the beauty of both foliage and flowers. The blooms are opening well and early this season, and we fully expect that the rose shows which are fixed for the earliest dates will have better contributions than those that come later. When the first bloom is nearly over, prune in slightly, and mulch with either rotten dung or wood- ashes and guano, a bushel of the first to a peck of the last, and a peck of the mixture to be spread in a circle of three feet in diameter round the stem of each tree ; half the quantity will suffice to spread around dwarfs : but half-rotted dung is best where appear- ances are not of much consequence, as it is so retentive of moisture and keeps the roots cool. Those who plant now must not touch standards, unless they can be got in pots. We have frequently turned standards out of pots in the height of summer, and found that frequently syringing for a fortnight afterwards was all they needed to help them take hold of the ground. Dwarfs in 60, 54, or 48 pots, the pots full of roots, will turn out without damage to a fibre, and if the ground is mellow and well manured they will give a fine bloom in the autumn ; but with this object in view it would be well to take off all bloom buds when planting. The best bed of roses we ever had was planted on the 3rd of June; it consisted of Jules Margottin, in three inner circles, and General Jacqueminot outside, all on their own roots; they were not allowed to bloom till August, and then continued in bloom until their buds were frozen before they could open, and the next season made tre- mendous growth. Anybody can tell if a rose is on its own root or worked, for the scar of a worked rose remains a long time at the collar. This scar should be planted below the surface, in order that the rose may form roots of its own, and a slight notch in the bark with a sharp knife just above the work will hasten the process. We are not inclined to quarrel with Manettis, Briers, Boursaults, or any other stock ; we have always had fine plants of all kinds as the result of giving each the requisite manage- ment. But own roots are best for ninety-nine out of every hundred varieties we possess, and all we insist on is that nurserymen should state in their lists what the roots consist of, and that purchasers should know when ordering roses what sort of roots they are to expect. S. H. A SELECTION OF FERNS. Twenty-five most beautiful AND EASILY-MANAGED GeEENHOUSE Febns. — Adiantum assimile, A. cu- neatum, A. formosum, A. pedatum, A. capillus veneris, Asplenium bulbi- ferum, A. viviparum, A. fabianum, A. fragrans, Cainpyloneurum phyllitidis, Davallia canariensis, D. bullata, Hu- mata pedata, Lygodium scandens, L. hastatum (climber), JSTephrodium ex- altata, Polypodium aureum, Platy- loma falcata, Platycerium alcicorne, Pterisserrulata, Scolopendrium Kreb- sii,Woodwardiaradicans,Polystichum coriaceum, Niphobolus rupestris. Twenty-five choice Haedy Feens. — Allosorus crispus, Asple- nium marinum, Athyrium filix-foemina, A. f.-f. corymbiferum, A. f.-f. diffissum, Cyrtomium falcatum, Blechnum spi- cant, Lastrea filix-mas, L. f-m. cristata, L. oreopteris, Onoclea sensibilis, Os- munda regalis, O. Claytoniana, Poly- podium phegopteris, P. vulgare, P. v. Cambricum, Polystichum angulare, P. aculeatum, P. lonchitis, Scolopen- drium vulgare, S. v. cornutum, IS. v. crispum, S. v. alcicorne, Woodsia ilvensis. 127 JUNE, 1S64.— 30 Days. Phases of the Moon.— New, 4th, lib. 40m. morn. ; First Quarter, 12th, llh. 48m. morn. ; Full, 19th, lOh. 54m. after. ; La3t Quarter, 26th, 2h. 15m. after. Averages foe the Month.— Bar. 29-973. Therm, max. 71°, min. 50°, mean 585°. Prevailing winds S. by W., and W. by N. The wind liable to frequent shifts, but east winds rare after the 8th. Nights often cold, and the first half as variable as May. Sun rises. Sun sets. h. m. h 3 508 50|8 498 488 48 8 478 478 468 46 8 45 s 458 45 8 44 8 Moor rises Morn 2 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8 54 9 57 1411 0 15'After. 14 3 44 s 44 8 44 8 448 44.8 44 8 448 44 8 45 8 23 3 45 8 24 3 45 8 25 3 468 26 3 46 8 27 3 47^8 28 3 47 8 29 3 48'8 30,3 488 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 35 9 19 9 53 19 10 24 19 10 49 1911 14 1911 40 19 Morn. 18 0 7 18J 0 37 18 1 12 15 16 16 17 17 18 18 IS 18 19 Moon sets. After. 4 52 6 2 8 5 8 55 Morn. 0 3 0 24 0 48 Weather near London, 1863. Fine throughout Fine throughout Very fine, ther. 83" Fine throughout Fine ; ram ; wind ; rain 9 34jRain ; fine ; breeze ; fine 10 9iCloudy ; cloudy; shower 10 35|Fine ; wh. cloud ; shwrs. 11 0 Fine; white clouds ; rain 11 22 Hazy ; fine; showers 11 43 Fine ; windy ; showers Cloudy ; heavy rain Fine ; showery ; cold Very fine throughout Fine ; cloudy ; fine Hazy ; rain ; much rain Cloudy ; overcast ; fine Fine ; cloud ; heavy rain Heavy rain ; fine ; cloud Fine ; cloud ; fine ; cool Fine throughout Cloud ; fine ; cld.j fine Fine throughout Shower; fine; thund. st. Fine ; cool at night Fine ; showery at night Rain ; fine; cloudy; fine 2 40|Very fine ; cool at night 3 51 Very fine 4 58 Fine ; ther. 34° at night 6 53 8 13 9 34 10 53 After. 1 27 Exhibitions, Meetings, Anniversaries, etc. Royal Sort. Soc. First Great Show R. S. S. Exhibition of Sculpture Viceroy of Egypt in England, 1862 T. S. Albrecht born, 1795 2nd Sunday aftee Trinity Dr. Horner died, 1862 Royal Oxfords. Sort. Third Show Glasgow Sorticultural Show , B. Pascal born, 1623 Dr. Robert Brown died, 1858 R. B. S. Second Great Show 3rd Sunday aftee Trinity Trinity Term ends T. Pennant born, 1726 Sort. Society of Edinburgh Show Earl Canning died, 1862 Duke of Marlborough died, 1722 Battle of Waterloo, 1815 4th Sunday aftee Trinity Accession of Queen Victoria R. H. S. Meeting for Scientific Dis. E. A. Copland died, 1858 [1S59 Josh. Wells, gr., Redleaf, Kent, died St. John Baptist (Midsummer-day) S. Kensington Museum op. 1857 5th Sunday after Trinity Buenos Ayres taken, 1806 Leicestershire Sorticultural Show R. S. S. G>-eat Rose Show Length of night 7h. 32m. Probable Weather, June, 1864. — During the first ten' days likely to be much rain, with strong gales and thunder, wind S.W. to S.W.S. From 10th to 20th generally bright and occasionally showery, temperature high, wind S.W.S. to S.S.E. From 20th to end, dry, barometer and thermometer high, wind S.E. to N.E.E. THE GAEDEN GUIDE EOE JUNE. Kitchen Garden. —Stake runner beans on the north side of the rows, unle;s they run north and south, which is best, in which cases take them on the west side, and hoe up. Sow lettuce ; tie a few at a time for immediate use. Sow parsley, endive, and turnips. Piant out celery, and water abun- dantly ; if convenient, shade the trenches for a week after planting. Asparagus to be cut no more after this week ; the beds then to be lightly forked over, and covered with a thin coating of rotten dung. Celery to have au abundant supply of 128 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. water if the ground is dry, as slow growth I is ruin to it, and may cause half the crop ! to bolt. Continue to plant out, using abundance of rotten dung well worked into the soil of the trenches. Cropping — Sow succession beans, mar- row peas, lettuce, Portugal cabbage, cauli- flowers, Walcheren brocoli, Stone turnip, and turnip radishes. Leeks to be transplanted from the seed- bed to very rich ground, and to be earthed up as they grow, to blanch the neck of the bulb. The frequent use of sewage water •will swell them to a great size, and with improved quality. Potatoes to be hoed between frequently, so long as there is room to work between the rows, after which it must be discon- tinued, to avoid injury to the haulm. If tempted to dig a portion of a crop for im- mediate use, take every alternate row ; the disturbance of the ground and the increased growing space will augment the bulk of the tubers in the rows left to grow to ma- turity. Root Crops, such as parsnip and beet, require now a final thinning; there is no gain from crowded beds. Potatoes to be frequently hoed between ; we have no great faith in the practice of moulding up the rows, but it is everywhere practised, and is evidently not seriously detrimental to the crop. If children can be employed to pick off the blossoms, the weight of the crop will be increased, but the difference will scarcely pay for any other kind of labour. Sow lettuce for succession, brond beans, wrinkled marrow, Emperor, and Advancer peas, radishes, scarlet runners, turnips, Early York, East Ham, and Shilling's Grotto cabbage, and a few rosette cole- worts, "Walcheren brocoli. Winter Greens. — Plant, during sho- wery weather, brocolis, Brussels sprouts, collards, cauliflowers, endive, celery, cab- bages, green kale, savoys, and whatever else is needed to supply the table during autumn and winter, the grand point beinir to secure enough of each, and somewhat of a reserve of plants to fill up vacancies, and to plant odd plots. Sow Flanders spinach, Dutch turnip, lettuce, horn carrot, radish. Fruit Garden.— Apple trees are now recovering from the devastation of c;:ter- pillar,and needacareful inspection, pruning knife in hand, to remove spurs and branches that have perished through less of sap when they were covered with vermin. Tie in espaliers at once, before the shoots get. set in a bent position j use the engine smartly to wall trees and bushes; nail in the wood to be kept on wall-trees, and re- move, but not too much at a time, all superfluous wood. We mu