XF ,L6k v. 12 I869 THE FLORAL WORLD GARDEN GUIDE. EDITED SHIRLEY HIBBERD, ESQ., F.R.H.S. W YORK fANlCAL '14. I860. LONDON: GROOMBRIDGE AND SONS, 5, PATEENOSTEB, EOW. F. BKNTLEY AND CO., miKTEBS, SHOE LANE, FLEET STREET, LONDON. INDEX. Abutilon striatum culture, 320 A donkey's taste for the concertina, 73 jEtbionema corif'olia, management of, 339 Agapanthus umbellatus, 134 Allamandas, 289 Allamanda nobilis, 127 Alpines, collecting and cultivating, 129 ; cultivation of, 151 ; list of, 132 Amaryllis from seed, raising, 201 Annuals, management of, 167 ; for con- servatory, 297 ; for the flower-garden, 107 Ants, 189 Apartments, fine foliage plants far, 251 ; plant decoration of, 213, 235 Araucaria imbricata, 63, 329 Arborvitses, list of, 331 Ashes as a manure, 288 Asparagus, Japanese, 238 Aucubas, grafting, 63 ; propagating, 128 Aucuba and lily, 247 Auricula, cultural remarks on the, 82 Azaleas, culture of, 257 ; list of, 259 ; of 1869, 300 Azaleas and camellias, 160 Balsams in the open border, 1S8 Barbe de Capucin, 351 Barnes testimonial, 286, 373 Bedding plants, good, 269 ; frame for protecting, 362 ; striking, 255 ; yel- low, 71 Beet for ornament, 223 Beetles and cockroaches, 189 Bees, taking honey from, 222 Begonias, flowering, 321 ; list of best, 323 Books, new — The Orchid - Grower's Manual, 62 ; Select Ferns and Lyco- pods, 62 ; Old Jonathan, 62 ; Beau- tiful-Leaved Plants, 62, 159, 218, 374 ; The Orchardist, 62 ; Curiosi- ties of the Pulpit, 62 ; Gleanings from French Gardens, 125 ; A Contribution to the Flora of Australia, 125; Sy- nopsis Filicum, 125 ; Practical Flori- culture, 125 ; the American Horticul- tural Annual, 126 ; the Gardener's Becord, 126; Ware's List of Perennials, 126; Echoes of Plant and Flower Life, 159 ; Wayside Lyrics, 159 ; Ferns, British and Foreign, 159; the Parks, Promenades, and Gardens of Paris, 213 ; Wood Nuts from a Fairy- Hazel Bush cracked for Little People, 218; The Fern Garden, 252, 288; Choice Stove and Greenhouse Plants, 319 ; Country Walks of a Naturalist -with his Children, 351 ; Gardening for the Cottage, 356; Garden Oracle for 1870, 352; Flora of Middlesex, 373 ; Science Manuals, 374 ; Thom- son on Grape- Vine, 374 Border, trailing plants for north, 191 ; shrubs for a hot dry, 192 Bougainvillea spectabilis, 144 Bouquets, winter, 86 Brassicas, club in, 91 Briers, home-grown, 325 British mosses, 36 Brunsvigia Josephine, not flowering, 96 Bulbous plants, a few good, 134; for the flower-garden, 335 Bulbs packing for export, 192 Cabbages, damping off, 96 Cactus, culture of, 293 Caladium cultivation, 68 Caledonian Society, 318 Camellia as a hardy shrub, 361 Cannas, protecting, 351 Carnations and picotees, 260 Carnations, tree, 223 Cats in the garden, 267 Cause of dew, 188 Cedars, selection of, 329 Chickweed, destroying, 189 Chicory for salads, 351 Chives, 224 Chrysanthemum in 1868, the, 14, 372 Clematis, bedding out, 160 Clianthus Dampieri, cultivation of, 53 Climbers, stove, 223 IV INDEX. Club in the Brassica tribe, 91 Coal smoke, 64 Coleus, new, 126 ; old and new, 199 Conifers, raising seedling, 189 Coniferous trees for English gardens, 326 Conservatory, annuals for, 297 ; erect- ing a cold, 222 ; furnishing, 288 ; furnishing cold, 352 Cordon, the horizontal, 22 Couch, destruction of, 61 Crown of thorns, 375 Cryptomeria, the, 332 Crystal Palace, 154 ; summer show, 187 Cucumbers, winter, 234, 288 Cupressus, list of, 332 Cyclamen Persicum, culture of, 149 Cypress, the deciduous, 333 Dahlia Imperialis, 373 " December," 369 Dianthus cultivation, 311 Dog and the raven, 120 Edging plants, silvery-leaved, 127 Epiphyllum truncatum culture, 239 Eucharis amazonica not flowering, 128 Eucomis culture, 135, 255 Euonymus grafting, 63 Erythrinas, protecting, 351 Everlasting flowers, 86 Export, packing bulbs for, 254 Ferns, for the dinner-table, 96; for exhibition, 113; indoor culture of hardy, 195; management of gold and silver, 146 ; propagating gold, 95 ; and mosses for rockery, 32 ; select, 43, 104 ; for sunny positions, 31 Fern cases heated by gas, 119 Filbert cultivation, 49 Fine foliage plants for greenhouse, 128 Fingerpost, 92, 281, 345 Firs, silver, 329 Flower-beds, planting, 141 Flower-beds during the winter, 63 Flower-garden, plants for, 127 Flower-pots, 190 Flowers for the new year, 341 Fruits for orchard-house, 304 Fruits for small orchard, 345 Fruit-trees in winter, watering, 352 Fuchsias, leaves falling off, 288; management, 95 ; in Valentia, the 218 ; cultivation of, 164 ; hardy, 292 ; of 1868, the best, 93 Garden Guide, 29, 59, 89, 123, 157, 184, 219, 250, 284, 316, 349, 370 Gardenia, culture of, 21 Gas-lime in gardens, danger of, 309. Gatherer, fruit and flower, 313 Geraniums, raising seedling zonal, 47, 90, 179, 212; propagating bedding, 255 ; wintering zonal, 352 Gesnera zebrina, culture of, 79 ; exo- niensis, 127 Gesneras, 97 ; list of, 99 Ginger, green, 224 Gloxinias, 95 Gold ferns, management of, 190 Grapes for cool vinery, 288, 352 ; se- lections of, 110; open-air English, 23 Grasses for winter bouquets, 112 Greenhouse heating, 224 ; heating, small, 19 ; management, 31 ; fine- foliage plants for, 128, 227; plants for, 160; winter flowering plants for, 223 Guano for garden plots, 351 Gymnogrammas, propagating, 95 Hamburgh international exhibition, 249, 286, 318 Hardly ferns, culture of, 42 Hardy fuchsias, 292 Heaths, winter-flowering, 359 Heating small greenhouses, 19 Hsemanthus culture, the, 135 Herbaceous and alpine plants, 80 Herbaceous spiraja, 33 Hollyhocks, propagation of, 287 Hoya bella culture, 223 Hyacinths, 128; home-grown, 116; culture of, 263 Indian pinks, 311 Indigotera dosua, 340 Inga pulcherrima, 188 Ivies, beautiful, 353 Ivy, grafting, 63; decorative uses of, 216 ; variegated leaved varieties, 353 ; classification and nomenclature of, 367 Japanese shrubs, 25 Jessamine, the Cape, 21 Junipers, list of, 333 Kitchen garden, 241 Ladies' garden, the, 7, 41, 80, 107, 141, 167, 210, 260, 311, 335,363 Lantanas for greenhouse, 188 Latania borbonica, 95 Leeds Horticultural Society, 154 Lilies, Guernsey and Scarborough, 136 ; garden, 65; water, 128 Lilium auratum, 286 Liliums, repotting, 287 Lobelias, herbaceous, 324 Lobelia speciosa, sowing, 96 Lomatia heterophylla, 31 London gardens, 32 Lonicera bracteata, 341 Lycopodiums, culture of, 299 Lysimachia nummularia, 138 Manchester Lotanical Society, 154 Melons, 96 Meterological fact, 249 Mosses, British, 36 Mushroom culture, 204, 310 Myrtles, wintering, 352 New clothes for old pegs, 245 Notes on three interesting plants, 137 ItfDEX. Nooks and corners, gardening for, 10; plants for, 11 Odds and ends, 238 Onion fly, the, 191 Orchard-house, trees in, 36 ; fruits for, 304 ; management of, 275 Orchard, planting a. small, 343 Orange trees, renovation of old,. 416 Pancratium, the, 135 Pandanus propagation, 64 Pansies, propagation of, 254 Pawlonia imperialis, 233 Pasonies, herbaceous, 230 Pffionia officinalis, an avenue of, 238 Peaches, double-flowering, 159 Pelargoniums for forcing, 160 ; culti- vation of zonal, 161 ; specimen zonal, 287 ; selection of gold and silver zonal, 287 ; cultivation of double- flowering, 193 ; early-flowering, 159 ; new, 114; propagating gold and silver, 224 Phlox, cultivation of, 396 Piceas, list of, 329 Pimpernel, the bog, 256 Pine-apple cultivation, 101, 139 Pine, the Chili, 329 Pine, the umbrella, 333 Pines, list of, 330 Plant, a word to those about to, 277 Plants recommended, 126 Pleroma cultivation, 225 Polyanthus culture, 243 Polyanthes tuberosa, 17 Potato culture, maxims of, 50 Prestoe fund, 24 Pumpkin, a heavy, 63 Pyrethrum, the, 170 ; Golden Feather, 160 Resurrection plant, the, 180 Rhododendron, standard, 320 Robin and the sparrow, 55 Rockery, ferns and mosse3 for, 32; building, 288 Rose garden, season's work in the, 74 ; growing, town, 337 ; shows at Bir- mingham and Hereford, 249 Roses in towns, standard, 12 ; pruning own-root, 128 ; pruning, 191 ; from autumn cuttings, 262 ; own-root, 190 ; selections of new, 345 Rough-and-ready gardening, 343 Royal Botanic Society, exhibitions of, 94, 154, 186, 249 Royal Horticultural Society, exhibition of, 94 ; hyacinth show, 153; azalea show,186; rose show, 186; pelargo- nium show, 248 ; great rose show, 248 ; pink show, 249 ; show at Man- chester, 249 ; show of gladioli and hollyhocks, 286 Rubbish, utilization of, 169 Salix rosmarinifolia, 341 Salvia patens, 223' Sarracenia cultivation, 77 Scale, clearing acacias of, 31 Schizanthus culture in pots, 285 Schizostylis coccinea, 9 Seakale, rapid production of, 255 Seed Adulteration Bill, 286 Seeds for the kitchen-garden, selection of, 92 Selaginellas, culture of, 299 Shrubs for plunging, 160 ; Japanese, 25 ; notes on scarce, 340 Side-saddle flower, the, 77 Soap berry, the, 285 Solanums for winter decoration, 302 ; Williams's hybrid, 126 Spiral palmata, 128 Spiraeas, herbaceous, 33 Spring flowers, 30 ; exhibitions of, 154 Spring-flowering plants, 210 Staking of trees, 376 Stocks damping off, 96 Stony ground and shady borders, 128 Strawberries, early, 174 Strawberry forcing, 5 Strawberry plants for forcing, 207 Stephauotis, culture of, 273 Stoves, Hink's petroleum, 351 Strelitzia reginee, 278 Subtropical gardening, 215 ; notes on, 1 Sunny positions, ferns for, 31 Sweet William culture, 287, 311 Symphyandria pendula, 63, 137 Table decorations, plants for, 175 Tacsonia Van Volxemi, fruit of, 362 Tallow tree of China, 254 Thomson, death of Mr. R., 313 Thyrsacanthus rutilans, 63 Tinne, murder of Miss, 318 Todea pelluoida, 189 Town area, to utilize, 365 Trees, 213 ; transplanting apparatus for, 217 Tree, a golden-leaved, 133 ; the white- wash, 237 Tuberose, the, 17 Veitch, death of Mr. J., 319, 373 Verbenas, vermin on, 63 ; in pots, 246 Victoria regia, 286, 372 Vine borders, forming and planting, 114 Vine, propagating the variegated, 95 Vines by circumposition, 190 Vines and bottom-heat, 286 Vases of great magnitude, 374 Vinery, grapes for cool, 288 Wellingtonia gigantea, 331 Winter bouquets, grasses for, 112 Winter decoration of flower-beds, 363 Winter garden, Edinburgh, 373 Whitewash, 64 Yellow bedding plants, 71 Yew, Fortune's, 333 Yews, 333 INDEX. NEW PLANTS. Abies numidica, 28 Acacia Ausfeldii, 27 Acanthophcenix crinita, 28 Acer Frederici Guilelrni, 26 Acer ornatum, 26 Acer platanoides rubium, 221 Acer rufinerva alba lineata, 347 Acridocarpus natalitius, 221 Adiantum decorum, 280 Adiantum rubeilum, 58 Aerides Japonicum, 348 Agalmyla staminea?, 121 Aglaonema Manni, 156 Allamanda nobilis, 27, 156 Amaranthus speciosus aureus, 1S2 Amomum sceptrum, 156 Ampelopsis dissecta, 221 Ampelopsis tricuspidata, 279 Anthurium Geitnerianuni, 26 Antigonon leptopus, 57 Aphelandra aurantiaca var. Eoezlii, 5S Aphelandra acutifulia. 348 Areca Baueri, 94 Aristolochia floribunda, 23 Aristolochia Ducharteri, 23 Azalea linearifolia, 314 Azalea mollis glabrior, 221 Begonia Clarkei, 279 Begonia nigrovenia, 26 Begonia rossefolia, 280 Begonia Veitchi, 280 Bertolonia margaritacea, 23 Bigonia purpurea, 348 Biglandularia conspicua, 57 Blandfordia Cunninghami, 215 Brassia arcuigera, 280 Brassia glumacea, 58 Brassia Lawrenciana, var. longissima, 94 Brassia thyrsodes, 58 Calceolaria Henrici, 314 Camellia japonica foliis variegatis, 183 Camellia sasanqua foliis variegatis, 183 Campanula isopbylla, 155 Camptopus Manni, 221 Caryota Cumingi, 314 Catasetum longifolium, 183 Cattleya speciosissima Lowii, 28 Cselogync (Pleione) Reichenbachiana, 122 Centaurea Fenzlii, 221 Cereus lividus, 314 Ceropegia Sandersoni, 347 Cleisostoma Dawsoniana, 58 Clematis Davidiana, 26 Clematis Lady Bovill, 27 Clerodendron serotinum, 26 Cobea pcnduliflora, 156 Cocbliostema Jacobiana, 2S Codiasum (Croton) Veitcbianurn, 27 Collinsia corymbosa, 221 Combretium micropetalum, 315 Cordia glabra, 314 Cotyledon Sulzmanni, 348 Cratoegus oxycanthus coccinea fl. pi., 27 Crocus orphanides, 314 Crocus Sbarojani, 221 Crotolaria Cunningbami, 314 Cyclamen Africanum, 156 Cymbidiuna pendulum atropurpureum, 222 Cypripedium Harrisianum, 155 Cypripedium Parishi, 279, 315 Cypripedium Stonei var. platycamuin, 26 Delostoma dentata, 156 Dendrobium albo-luteum, 347 Dendrobium cariniferum, 280 Dendrobium crassinode, 182 Dendrobium crystallinum, 28 Dendrobium Devonianum rhodoneurum, 57 Dendrobium Huttoni, 279 Dendrobium Jerdonianum, 58 Dendrobium lasioglossum, 57, 221 Dendrobium microglaphys, 94 Dendobrium miserum, 280 Dendrobium moniliforme, 58 Dendrobium Williamsoni, 155 Dichorisandra musaica, 27 Dipladenia amcena, 57 Dipladenia boliviensis, 347 Dorstenia argentea, 347 Doroceras bygrometrica, 182 Drosophylium lusitanicum, 348 Epidendrum meliosum, 348 Epidendrum Ghtisbreghtianum, 58 Epimedium alpinum Tar. rubrum, 121 Eranthemum Andersoni, 183, 314 Erantbemum igneum, 28 Erodium macradenium, 122 Eupatorium Haageanum, 27 Eucodonia naogelioides lilacinella, 57 Eupatorium Weinmannianum, 28 Fuchsia Albert Coene, 94 Fuchsia Beaute de Gentbrugge, 94 Fuchsia Francoise de Yos, 94 Gladiolus cruentas, 182 Greyia Sutherlandi, 222 Griffinia dryades, 348 Gymncgramma Sancheana var. gigantea, 94 Hoemadictvon nutans maxima, 27 Houlletia Wallisii, 280 INDEX. VU Hyophorbe amaricaulis, 57 Hvophorbe VerschafFelti, 57 Ibiridella rotundi folia, 122, 1S2 Iresene Lindeni, 57 Iris stylosa, 314 Ksempferia Parishi, 156, 314 Keteleeria Fortunei, 221 Lselia albida var. brunnea, 27 La?lia albida var. ochracea, 27 Lselia albida var. Tuckeri, 27 Lselia Pilcheriana, 58 Laslia purpurata var. Xelisii, 94 Lilium auratum rubrum, 26 Lilium pseudo-tigrinum, 26 Lilium Wilsoni, 93 Liriodendron tulipferum foliis aureo- pictis, 94 Livistonia altissima, 58 Mackaya bella, 348 Magnolia Campbelli, 279 Masdevallia Veitchiana, 58 Meiracyllium gemma, 348 Miconia Teysmanniana, 27 Miltonia festiva, 28 Miltonia spectabilis var. virginalis, 94 Miltonia Warcen'iczii, 221 Moroea bulbifera, 348 Mormodes Skinneri, 221 Myosotis dissitiflora, 28 Nestera depressa, 348 Nierembergia fructescens, 222 Odontoglossum Andersonianum, 28 Odontoglossum anthoxantbum, 280 Odontoglossum CVrvantesi var., 57 Odontoglossum cristatum, 93 Odontoglossum Krameri, 315 Odontoglossum nebulosuin var. Patti- sonianum, 57 Odontoglossum retusum var. latro, 58 Oncidium andigenum, 280 Oncidium gyrobulbon, 315 Oncidium byphaematicum, 315 Oncidium macrantbum, 121 Oncidium macropus, 27 Oncidium phalasnopsis, 279 Oncidium porrigens, 27 Oncidium (Cytrocbilum) xanthodon, 155, 156 Oplismenus imbccillis fol. variegatum, 58 Ortgiesia Tillandsoides, 28 Palava flexuosa, 183 Parrotia persica, 121 Passiflora cincinnata, 58 Passiflora glauca, 26 Passiflora Lawsoniana, 221 Passiflora Munroi, 221 Passiflora sanguinolentum, 221 Pseonia aureo limbata, 183 Pelargonium Schotti, 314 Pinus tamrac, 183 Poa trivialis, fol. albo-vittatis, 57 Polycyonis lepida, 348 Polymnia pyramidalis, 27 Placea grandifiora, 24 Plectopoma nsegelioides aureo roseunr, 222 Plectopoma nsegelioides bicolor, 222 Plectopoma nsegelioides Candida, 222 Plectopoma nsegelioides corallinum, 222 Plectopoma nsegelioides scintillans, 221 Plumeria lutea, 347 Pleurotballis Bowmanni, 348 Primula pedmontana, 315 Prunus padum, 27 Prunus subhirtella, 28 Rhododendron caucasiuni flavidum, 280 Rhus Osbecki, 26 Richardia melanoleuca, 182 Rose Monsieur Journeaux, 94 Rubus rossefolius, 57 Rudgea macrophylla, 57 Saccolabium bigibbum, 183 Sanchezia nobilis glaucopbylla, 182 Sanchezia nobilis variegata, 27 Sarcantbus chrysomelas, 279 Spirsea palmata, 94 Spirantbus Smithi, 58 Stanhopea xytriophora, 58 Stapelia hystrix, 122 Steriphoma paradoxum, 348 Styrax japonica, 315 Tacsonia eriantha, 122, 183 Tacsonia quitensis, 280 Tbapsia decipiens, 122 Thibaudia acuminata, 122 Tbrixspermum uniferum, 58 Tbunbergia fragrans, 121 Trichopilia grata, 155 Tritelia porrifolia, 93 Tropseolum sessifolium, 58 Tydcea Lindeniana, 315 Vaccinium reflexum, 347 Vanda Denisoniana, 280 Vanda insignis, 155, 183 Viburnum plicatuni tomentosum, 57 vin INDEX. COLOURED PLATES. Allamanda nobilis, 289 Azalea Reine Marie Henriette, 257 Begonia rosseflora, 321 Geranium Richard Headly, 161 Geranium Victor, 193 Gesnera exoniensis, 97 Group of Alpine flowers, 130 Ivies, garden, varieties of, 353 Lilium Leichtlinii, 65 Pleroma sarmentosa, 225 Spiraea palmata, 33 Subtropical garden, Battersea Park, 1 WOOD ENGRAVINGS. Adiantum Farleyensis, 44 Asplenium alatum, 104 Asplenium myriophyllum, 105 Begonia Clarkei, 279 Begonia rosseflora, 280 Begonia Veitchi, 280 Blandfordia Cunninghami, 315 Campanula isophylla, 155 Caryota Cumingi, 314 Cobaea pendulifiora, 156 Combretum micropetalum, 315 Dipladenia boliviensis, 347 Dracaena terminalis, 214 Epimedium alpinum, 121 Fruit and flower gatherer, the "Selby," 313 Gas-stove, 120 Griffinia dryades, 347 Iberidella rotundifolia, 182 Ivy in suspension basket, variegated, 216 Plumeria lutea, 347 Polymnia grandis, 215 Rockery, 170 Tacsonia eriantha, 183 Thunbergia fragrans, 121 Transplanting machine, 216 Wreath of everlastings and grasses, 87 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. JANUARY, 1860. NOTES ON SUBTROPICAL GARDENING. WITH SKETCH FBOM THE SUBTROPICAL GARDEN, BATTEBSEA PA1IK. T first thought it may appear that little remains to he said upon the subject of subtropical gardening, and that . every misapprehension which existed in connection with the subject is now numbered with the things of the past. Such, however, is not the case, for we constantly meet with people who object to it on the ground of its assumed costliness, and the high degree of skill necessary to carry ib out. It must be granted that it costs time and money to produce the plants required for this system, as it does to produce hosts of gera- niums, calceolarias, and plants of that type, but no more. The varieties of Canna, Ricinus, Wigandia, and Solanum, can be raised from seed in the spring with as little trouble as that attached to the production of a stock of asters, and other half hardy annuals. The Aralia, the India rubber, and other plants of that class, can be stored away in a cold greenhouse, or light airy shed — anywhere, in fact, so long as they get a little light and are secure from frost. The housing of the smaller subjects, like the Lantanas and Plumbagos, requires no consideration whatever, for they can be stored away in the space which, in the ordinary course of things, would be occupied with geraniums and verbenas. And the possession of a few fine Palms, tree Ferns, Musas, and Dracrenas, is more of au advantage than an incumbrance, for they are just the class of plants that are wanted for associating with the chrysanthemums and other winter-flowering plants in the conservatory, when the bedding season is past. The fact that we have hosts of hardy plants capable, with judicious arrangement, of producing grand effects in our gardens, must not bo lost sight of. We have the noble Yuccas, the beautifully variegated Maple, and the gracefully growing and fiery glowing Tritoma, with its spikes of . scarlet flowers, besides the Pampas grass and Arundo donax and CGnspicua, which produce abundance of silvery plumes. All these plants have a fine graceful habit, which is sufficient to vol. it. — no. i. l 2 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. procure them admission into all gardens where distinctive character and elegance of form are understood and appreciated. In giving a few hints upon the management of the subtropical garden, we are desirous it should be understood that this style of gardening is not so well adapted for small places as for large. The main point is to study the convenience there may be for growing the plants through the early stages of their existence, and for preserving during winter those that are best worth keeping. It is by no means a wise proceeding where there are but one or two beds, to fill them with such strong-growing subjects as the castor oil and tobacco plants. These should be grown in quantity where there is plenty of room, and there used to give effect to plants of smaller size. For the small garden there are many choice plants more suitable for beds which come close under the eye. As most of the plants employed in this system are natives of warmer climates than ours, a little labour is necessary to form the beds, so that the roots obtain the greatest amount of warmth possible from the limited amount of sun-heat. Now to afford the plants the advantage of a genial warmth without employing artificial heat, a better plan cannot be well adopted than that of Mr. Gibson, at Battersea Park. We might write a long dissertation on the why and wherefore of this, possibly with advantage to many of our readers, but we refrain because of our insufficient space. The beds are taken out to a depth of three feet. The bottom is filled in with brickbats, two feet deep, and a layer of light soil is placed on the top for the plants to grow in. The soil is placed on the brickbats to a depth of about two feet, and kept in its place by a strip of turf laid on to form a bank. Now when the bed gets warmed through, which it does with amazing rapidity when made in this manner, the plants grow with a vigour unknown in beds prepared in the ordinary way. It may not always be practicable to take the beds out to the depth named, but they ought to have at least a foot depth of bricks, and the bed be that height above the level of the surrounding surface. It must be recollected that in dry hot seasons the plants will require a larger amount of water lhan they would if planted on the level. Their free growth and healthy appearance will more than repay for the labour incurred, and if it should happen to turn out a cold wet summer, the robust health of the plants will afford striking proofs of the advantages arising from the adoption of this system. There can be no doubt of the benefit of preparing the beds in the way described, or why should the plants at Battersea Park do so much better than at other places, particularly in cold wet seasons ? It i3 only in such a summer as that of last year that we see GAeas Verschajfelti looking first-rate in the generality of places, yet Mr. Gibson has the most glorious beds of it every year, and the way he manages it is after this wise : — The beds are prepared as above described, and the plants, which are nicely established in five or six- inch pots, are plunged in the soil instead of heing planted out. The site for the subtropical garden should be as warm and as shc'teredas possible. When planted in bleak exposed situations, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 3 the foliage of the large-leaved plants becomes torn and discoloured, and few things look worse in a garden of a pretentious kind (as this must be) than plants with bare stems or leaves hanging in ribbons. Before naming a few of the best plants adapted for our purpose, it must be added that most of the plants should be strong when planted out, so as to produce an effect at once, without having to wait until the end of the season, especially as many of them make but slow progress out of doors. On the other hand, several of the choice subjects named in the following list make better growth out of doors than when kept in the stove throughout the year. Subtropical gardening has this advantage — it enables the possessor of noble-growing plants to enjoy their beauty in the most natural manner, which, when they are in the roasting heat of the stove, is impossible. In the undermentioned selection, we shall name only a few of the best subtropical plants for general purposes, but where a selection of hardy plants only is required, we must refer our readers to a paper in last year's volume, which treats at some length upon that matter, and forms part of the series of articles upon " Rough and Ready Gardening." Of the fine foliage plants we have the elegant Acacia lophantha, remarkable for its elegant plumy growth. This plant should be raised from seed, and have one full year's growth before being planted out. Agave Americana and its variegated varieties, are grand for prominent positions. Alsophila australis is one of the most beautiful tree ferns, and well adapted for shady corners. For moist positions, such as the margins of lakes or pools, the following grasses are admirably suited : — Arundinaria falcata, Arundo con- spicua, Gynerium argenteum, and Andropogon giganteum. The first three are hardy, and the last requires shelter through the winter. To the grasses may be added some grass-like plants such as Bambusa aruiidinacea, B. Jumalaica, Cyperus alter nif alius, and C. papyrus. These require stove shelter during winter. The Aralias must on no account be passed over: A. papyrifera, A. reticulata, A. Sieboldi, and A. Sieboldi variegata are decidedly the best. The last two are quite hardy, which is a considerable enhancement of their value. Aspidistra lurida variegata is a choice subject for a dry sandy bank. In that position the variegation is developed more perfectly, and the plants are hardy. The Bocconias are useful on account of their free habit, but are rather coarse. The best are B. fndescens and B. cordata rotundifolia A few Caladiums must not be missed, for they produce a fine effect with their massive foliage when grown in light rich soil with liberal supplies of water. The bulbs of these must be kept dry and in warmth through the winter, or they will soon decay. C. atrovirens, G. Borgei, G. esculentum, and C. odoralum are distinct kinds of the highest value. The next subjects to engage our attention are the Cannas, and they are certainly the most important family we have to deal with. They have handsome foliage and flowers, and almost come within the range of hardy plants, for most of the under-mentioned sorts have done well without being taken up for several years past ; and probably all the varieties grown would survive the winter in the open ground 4 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. if they had a trial. The beds in which they are planted should be covered with dry leaves and six inches of soil heaped over to prevent the leaves blowing about ; the magnificence of the foliage and flower- spikes, and the dimensions they attain when left in the ground all the winter, are perfectly astonishing. The following are all first-rate : G annei superba, G. expansa, a fine dwarf variety for edging ; G. gigantea major, C. Leirvalli, C. Musce- folia liybricla, G nigricans, G. Rendatleri, C. zebrina. Next we will look for a few palms : Caryota urens, is good for select positions, and several of the beautiful Ghamcerops are doubly valuable, as they have the important quality of being nearly hardy. G. Fortunei and G humilis are the two best. Other good palms are Latania borbonica, Phoenix siglvestris, and Seqforthia elegans. Prom palms we pass to grasses again : IIolcus saccharatus, Zea caragua, and Z. maysmvke fine bold beds if the seed is sown in the spring, especially if edged with a double row of the beautiful Zea japonica variegata. These grasses should be raised in heat, and planted out in the manner of half-hardy annuals. The Dracaenas, from their elegant habits, and in many instances richly coloured foliage, have particular claims upon our attention. The dark-leaved kinds have a beautiful appearance when the surface of the bed is planted with the variegated Dactylis glomerata, or some other short variegated plant. Draoasna stricta, D. ferrea, D. Cooperi, and D. terminalis are four good dark-leaved sorts ; D. australis, D. cannasfolia, D. indivisa, and D. fragrantissima are good green-leaved kinds. Selecting in other departments, we find Ferdinandia eminens, Ficus elasticus, Lomatia ferruginea, Rhopala corcovadense, Melianthus major, a very beautiful plant, with elegant compound glaucous foliage, and Wigandia caracasana, all valuable, and the most popular of the subtropicals that require greenhouse shelter during the winter. The Tobaccos, Solanuma, and Eicinus are all free-growing plants, and can be easily raised from seed in the spring. The plants belonging to this group will grow freely whether on raised beds or not. Of the first genus, Nicotiania wigandioides and N. macrophyi- lum giganteum are the best. S. acanthocarpum, 8. giganteum, and 8. marginatum are the best of that group ; and of the castor oils, Iiicinus bourbonensis, S. Obermanni, and B. sanguineus are stately growing subjects. A full list of flowering plants is not needed, as we have treated upon them very recently, and at length. But we must enumerate a few of the most striking. For large beds the following are magnifi- cent : Abutilon striatum, A. Due de Malakoff, Brugmansia suaveolens, Datura arborea, D. Uuberiana, and several other good varieties. Erythrina crista-galU, F. Marie Bellanger, are first-rate, and the same may be said of Hibiscus rosa sinensis, which flowers grandly in the open-air. For edging purposes Plumbago capensis is a fine subject with its lovely blue flowers, as are several good varieties of Lantanas. S. H. STRAWBERRY FORCING. BY WILLIAM COLE, HEAD GABDENEJR, EALING PAKE. l~N the remarks which I intend offering, I shall not attempt an elaborate treatise upon strawberry forcing. The season for that is now past. I shall therefore confine myself to a few seasonable hints that may be useful just now. It must, however, be understood, that unless the plants are strong, and have large, well-ripened crowns, it is of very little use to incur the trouble and expense of forcing them, for there will be but little fruit to repay the cultivator. At the same time, there are plenty of people who can manage to grow very good plants through the autumn, but fail in ripening a good crop of fruit in the spring ; for this class of cultivators my observations are more espe- cially intended. In forcing, whether fruit, flowers, or vegetables, a little thought ought to be bestowed upon what occurs oiit-of-doors at the time when vegetation begins to start into active life, uud then to a certain extent we must imitate those conditions as far as practicable. We find that a gradual increase of temperature takes place throughout the spring, and not a sudden leap from winter to summer, such as some growers suppose to take place. When strawberry plants are brought out of the open air, and put into a strong heat at once, the flowers go blind, and the plants, instead of fruit, produce an abund- ance of lanky foliage. In the first place, all strawberry plants ought to receive shelter from the frost and rains throughout the winter, for when exposed to alternate soakings of rain and sharp frosts, they are in anything but a favourable condition for forcing. A cold pit is undoubtedly the best place for them, though there are many con- trivances that can be extemporized with but little trouble that will do nearly as well. The best place for forcing strawberries is a good pit, or a house erected on purpose, with shelves close to the glass. My houses for strawberry-growing are nice little span-roofed struc- tures, with a walk down the centre, and shelves close to the glass on each side. The advantage of houses over pits is this — the plants can be watched and attended to without having to uncover and expose them to the cold, chilling influence of the external air. Good crops are grown annually in peach-houses and vineries ; and I have not a word to say against its being done, but I prefer separate structures for the purpose. When the plants are first brought into the house, the whole of the dead and decaying foliage should be trimmed off, and the pots washed, to make everything have a clean and tidy appearance. It is also a very good plan to remove the loose surface soil, and fill the space with thoroughly-decayed manure. The exact temperature for starting with depends a little upon the time of year. For instance, those started in the early part of December should not have more fire-heat than is necessary to bring the temperature up to an average of 45% to begin with, whilst plants introduced into heat towards the 6 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. end of February may safely be subjected to a temperature of 55°, by fire-heat. For ordinary crops, January is quite early enough to com- mence operations ; and where there is but one crop to force, February is better still. The later in the season the plants are forced, the greater is the certainty of a good crop ; and it is for preferable to have a good crop late than a poor one early. The plants should be cautiously watered until they get into full growth, for very little will be required up to that time, and plenty of air must be admitted. From the time the plants are first started, until the fruit is set, the temperature must be very carefully regulated, and a rise of about five degrees by fire-heat allowed beyond the point mentioned above. But the thermometer may be allowed to run up ten degrees higher than usual, during sunshine, and with a liberal supply of air. Ven- tilation is a very important matter in strawberry forcing, and requires very carefully regulating, so that the plants have sufficient air without taking cold thereby, particularly during the time they are in flower. It is impossible for me to say how much is to be admitted, for that depends entirely upon the weather. It must also be remem- bered, that unless there is a free circulation of air going on when the fruit is ripening off, the flavour will be poor and insipid, and tainted with too large a proportion of acidity to render it agreeable to the palate. It is to this cause, and the too liberal supplies of water, that we are indebted for so much badly-flavoured fruit. Directly as many fruit are set as it is thought the plants will carry comfortably all the smallest fruit, and remaining flowers should be clipped off, for they only weaken the plants, aud rob the fruit intended to reach maturity. After the young fruit begins to swell, the temperature should be gradually raised until it reaches G5°, with an additional ten degrees during sunshine. Weak manure-water every other day throughout the swelling process will be of immense advantage in helping them along. The watering must not on any account be neglected ; for, when that happens, the fruit receives an amount of injury from which they never recover. It is a very good plan to place a layer of leaf-mould, or cocoa-nut fibre refuse, on the shelves upon which the plants are placed, as it prevents the soil drying up so quickly. After the plants go out of flower, they should be syringed frequently, say twice a-day, unless the weather is unusually damp and dull. Unless the syringe is kept steadily at work, and a genial atmospheric moisture maintained, red spider will soon take possession ; and when once that pest gets ahead, the crop is as good as ruined ; for, without clean, healthy foliage, the fruit will certainly be small and deficient in flavour. As the fruit begins to colour, the manure-water must be withheld, the s}rringe be used very sparingly indeed, and only sufficient clear water applied to keep the foliage from flagging. The golden rules in strawberry forcing- are, to start slow and steadily, to keep the plants close to the glass, with plenty of air ; to keep the foliage clean and healthy ; and never to allow the plants to suffer for the want of water at any time, but without giving too much, particularly as the fruit is ripening. THE LADIES' GARDEN —No. I. BY J. C. CLA.KKE, Head Gardener at Cothelston House, Taunton. fHE main object of the series of papers I purpose to fur- nish, under the above heading, is, to assist those who, for the most part, superintend the management of their own gardens. I shall not attempt to treat the subjects on which I write in a sentimental manner. I prefer rather the plain, practical way, having less desire to accomplish fine writing than to be homely and useful. Having given these chapters the title of "The Ladies' Garden," I must first say, I have no intention of speaking of the formation of the garden ; it will serve my purpose best, and those for whom I write, if we take the gardens as we find them, and see how we can improve their condition without necessitating a heavy outlay at first, or an annual expenditure afterwards. Now as nearly everybody loves flowers, if they have a garden, of course they must have them, and the majority of people I find are obliged to be content with the fashionable bedding plants of the day ; not that they prefer their brilliant colours to the more humble ones amongst the annuals, and hardy herbaceous plants, but because with other kinds of plants they have not had the success they hoped for, they therefore fall back upon the bedding plants as the more certain measure for securing, at least for a short period, a display of bloom. I admit, to the fullest extent, the adaptability of bedding plants for such a purpose; but I also happen to know that, however successful they may be in creating an effect, they are never half so much admired and cared for as those which the fair proprietors have succeeded in raising themselves. Those who have witnessed the just pride, and well- earned gratification of persons who have succeeded in doing so, will at once admit that public writers, generally, have neglected a subject which deserves all the attention that can be bestowed upon it. I will, in the course of these remarks, endeavour to assist our lady readers by plain and practical directions for the preparation of the garden, and the selection of subjects which they may cultivate for themselves, having in view, of course, to promote variety and change in the aspects of the garden. The secret of success in growing such subjects as will be here- after recommended, will depend, principally, upon the condition of the beds or borders. This is a subject but little understood. It is absolutely necessary that they be properly prepared, not merely scratched over in the winter, as too many are, but really dug up in the fullest sense of the word, to at least a depth of twelve inches ; but twenty-four would be better. As very few herbaceous plants are now grown, I have arranged for this chapter to appear with the new year, because, as the winter is the best season for this work, the reader may have ample time to get such work done before the 8 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. seed-sowing season arrives. The digging of the border should be commenced as soon as the first favourable weather occurs after this is read. This winter stirring of the soil will prove of great benefit, for it will let in air and water, and it will break up the lower stratum of earth, which, in so many instances, proves a stubborn barrier to the roots of plants that would, if they could, penetrate deep in the search of food ; more than this, it opens the ground to the influence of that best of all fertilizers, the frost, rendering it more friable and kindly for future working, to say nothing about its sweetening and pulverizing influence. Yet few appear to under- stand that this work is as essential for flowers as for vegetables ; but why should it not be ? If it is necessary to trench deeply and manure heavily for vegetables, surely, to a certain extent, the same principle applies to flower-beds and borders. At all events, my own experience convinces me that to grow flowers successfully in the same beds or borders, year after year, requires the treatment I am now advocating for the Ladies' Garden. There are hundreds, nay, thousands of small gardens, in which the soil at six inches under the surface has not seen the light of day for many a long year ; the top crust has had its yearly scratching, perhaps from the man who "does "the garden. Poor man, I pity his lot, when he is only allowed one day to do the work which, if properly and honestly done, would take two, and yet the disappointed proprietor grumbles when things go wrong. If our fair readers have hitherto thought it unnecessary to have their beds and borders properly dug up, what will they say when I tell them that it is also necessary to manure them occasionally, which it is, as much to a certain extent for flowers as for vege- tables, only that a different class of manure would serve for flowers. The poor, trashy soil round the suburbs of London, and other large towns, requires it more particularly ; but in every case it is essen- tial to success. To convince us of this, let us, for a moment, consider the nature of a few herbaceous plants, and see how their characters of growth agree with some of the members of the kitchen garden to which manure is applied without question. We will first look at the nature of the dahlia. Why, its gross feeding pro- pensities would rob any spot of more nourishment than a cauliflower. The phlox, and scores of other things like the hollyhock, the pent- stemon, and antirrhinum, would require equally as much nourishment as a cabbage. Then with regard to beds of verbenas or geraniums, they also exhaust the soil of its nutritive substances, and therefore some matter that will replenish them is necessary, or an uninter- rupted course of success cannot follow. In every case, where there is a piece of grass, and a few trees, a capital manure may be made year after year. There are hundreds of waggon-loads of such matter thrown to waste every year out of small gardens, which might, if properly used, be turned to good account. Many, perhaps, will reply to this remark, that we have not room in our limited places to store away the rubbish of the garden ; but that excuse will not bear examination, because a hole, six feet square, and three feet deep, with a few plants of laurels, or THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 9 privet to hide it, will not take tip much room, and will hold all the refuse for one year of a small garden, and at the end of that year there will be sufficient of it in a decomposed state to use amongst the beds and borders. That which is not rotten may go into the bottom of the pit, for another year. And if, at any time in hot weather, fermentation takes place with what has been thrown iu the hole, why, a barrow-load of soil will keep down any offensive smell that may rise from it. The waste vegetables from the kitchen, the sweepings of walks, etc., and all weeds, and trimmings from the plants iu the beds or borders, iu fact, any vegetable matter of any and every kind, will make a capital manure for flowers if first rotted in the way I propose. In many gardens, there is a scarcity of good soil on the surface, this should be increased, where it is possible, in every case, especially on the cold, stiff clay round London. A few loads of good loam may sometimes be obtained for a mere trifle, from places where building operations are in progress ; at all events, where the top spit is not good it should be improved and augmented. I have recommended that the borders should be dug up at once ; but in after years, this work must be done in October, when the chief flowers for the season are over. October is the best month because any herbaceous plants that it may be desirable to divide, may be taken up and re- planted without risk ; and the manuring may be done at the same time- Iu my own case, having two long borders devoted to herba- ceous plants, I dig them every year in October, and such things as phloxes, Michaelmas daisies, and many other things, I take up, dig out the soil, and fill up the hole with manure, and plant again on the same spot, always manuring, at least every second year, all the occupants of the borders, except flowering shrubs. Many object to digging herbaceous borders, or even flower-beds in which there are permanent bulbs, until the bulbs show themselves above ground ; but this I consider a waste of time. In my own case, I know the position of every clump of bulbs by a neat little stick about four inches out of the ground, I can therefore dig and plant without disturbing them, if required ; but no ordinary bulb will sutler from removal at that season of the year, if done with care, and planted again directly. The reader has now plenty of work set out for the first month of the new year, so I shall deter, until the next number, the remarks I have to make on the spring and summer work of beds and borders. Sciiizostylis coccinea is a member of the gladiolus family, a Lardy border bulb, of neat grassy growth, and producing graceful spikes of most beautiful rosy scarlet flowers in December. In sheltered places it may be left out the whole year- round, but where likely to be harmed by frost it should be taken up and potted in October, to adorn the conservatory or the window. It is one of the best winter- flowering plants we have. 10 GAEDENING EOE NOOKS AND COENEES. BY THOMAS WILLIAMS, BATH LODGE, OEM SKIIIE. HT is it that the gardens of our villas and old-fashioned houses and the hetter class of cottages afford more real delight than the parterres and the highly ornamented gardens of the mansion or the palace ? It is because the latter display art avowed and studied, and the former display taste, and elegance, and nature ! One is the stately court lady, living and moving by rule and etiquette ; the other is the easy, laughing, careless village damsel, with her hair all loose, hat on one side, and ribbons either dangling or fluttering in the breeze. The one is magnificent and grand, the other is amiable and beautiful. The one is the display of power and opulence, meritorious and com- mendable in its development, but the other gives the idea of peace and seclusion, which are better. After all the Clivedens and the Chatsworths, that are perhaps the glory of England's gardens, it is to our parsonages, vicarages, manses, homely villas, and such places, that we must look for the beautiful in gardening. I once lived with a titled lady, who had woods and drives, lawns and shrubberies, of almost unlimited extent, who always appeared dissatisfied with everything after a visit to the rectory ; and I believe such cases are general, and the reason is obvious. In the one case, the decorations are spread over, perhaps, a very wide area, and in the other they are more compressed, or brought together, and the whole is seen and remembered ! We always feel a desire to peep over the fence into the grounds of those low, old-fashioned houses that seem to be all chimneys and gables, and bay windows, with projections and recesses, here smothered in ivy, and there loaded with the red berries of the pyracantha. There is no "balancing of colour" here — everything seems dropped at random, and everything seems in the right place ; and then there are so many "pretty nooks and corners," and they are full of modest beauties. Of the latter I have a little to say. An interesting addition may be made to the gardens of the above kind of residences, by what, for want of a better term, may be termed a eooteey. About wheelwrights' yards (and there is a wheel- wright in almost every village) a lot of useless-looking butt ends of trees may be seen lying about, apparently of no earthly use, but which when collected together, and disposed in a tasteful, seemingly careless manner, in some of the above nooks and corners, will be sure to afford pleasure at all seasons ; and while what are called "rockeries" are too often contemptible abominations, these old moss-grown, weather-beaten blocks are always pleasing. Do not attempt to develop Gothic or Norman notions with these blocks — tumble them together in a somewhat massive, careless manner, according to the size of the " corner ;" and while most rockeries seem to say " I would if I could," these old mossy blocks will always convey the idea of taste, making the most of everything, and turning everything to account. Miniature shrubs and all kinds of plants will luxuriate in such THE FLOEAL WOKLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 11 places, and the following list will give an idea what to plant in these charming " nooks :" — Ajuga reptans variegata, a very beautiful plant. A. r. purpurea, dark purple foliage, effective for mingling with light-coloured plants. Achillea tomentosa. Alyssum saxatile compaction, charming for its glaucous leaves and yellow flowers. Cheiranthus alpina, or ochroleuca. Coronilla iberica, a most beautiful trailing plant, fleeces of golden yellow flowers ; few plants are more charming than this. Cerastium tomentosum, indispensable for its massive silvery white- ness ; most profuse bloomer. Crucianella stylosa, pretty, globular heads of pink flowers ; not often seen : the more the pity. Eriophorum lanatum (Baliia lanatum), good. Geranium sanguinea, well known. 0. Lancastriense, exquisite flowers, whitish, with deep pink veins, a plant that everybody falls in love with. G. Lamberti, a rather rare and very beautiful cranesbill, trailing flowers, rose with pure white centre. Gypsophylla repens, pretty panicles of white flowers, nice for hanging over a ledge. Sieracium alpina, showy. Iberis corifolia, the finest of the evergreen candytufts, compact heads of white. Lathyrus venosus, little known, very pretty. Polygonum vaccinifolium, beautiful ; those who have only room for six rock plants should have this for one. Ranunculus reptans plena, a splendid double buttercup. Scabiosa graminifolia, fine silky foliage. Stachys lanata, a common but interesting plant. Saponaria ocymoides, sheets of pink flowers, fine. Tunica saxifraga, grass-like foliage, but there is a double variety of this which I have not yet met with. Symphyandria pendula, little known ; a trailing kiud of cam- panula, large creamy white flowers, of no use but on a stump or on a block, as it grows dead flat on the ground ; fine for suspending. Teucrium multiflora, pretty pink. OnobrycJtis supina, this plant, though last on the list, is perhaps first in merit. JSreat glaucous pinnate foliage, with a profusion of red drooping spikes of Clianthus-looking flowers; charming for hanging over a ledge. The following are a few charming effective-looking Saxifrages and Sedums, evergreen cushiony -looking plants, which of themselves would be interesting at all seasons : — Saxifraga virescens, S. propendens, 8. geranioides, 8. Sclircederii, 8. densum, 8. liypnoides, 8. elongata, 8. muscoides, 8. palmata, S. pani- culata, 8. platypetala, 8. Greenlandica, S. aspera. Sedum Foster •ianum, 8. lividum, S. dentkidatum, S. album. The last is, perhaps, the most handsome of the Sedums. 12 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. If a few dwarf trailing shrubs should be required, add the following : — Sedum huxifolium, Mica carnea, Gaultheria procunibens, G. sliallon, Pernettya inucronata, Juniperus prostrata, Cotoneaster thymi- folia, Gytisus purpurea, Empetrum nigrum, Berleris empetrifolia. The last is a charming plant for "hanging over." Many more things may be added, but sufficient has been enume- rated, to give an idea how very beautiful nooks and corners, and out- of-the-way places may be rendered. THE CULTURE OF STANDARD ROSES WITHIN THE SUBURBS OF LARGE TOWNS. BY J. F. M'ELEOT, Head Gardener at Moray Lodge, Campden Hill. |0 much has been written and said on the cultivation of the rose that it may appear superfluous on my part to attempt to retrace the already-beaten track. But I cannot refrain from offering some observations on this, of all flowers, the most universally admired. This paper has been partly suggested to me from a remark uttered by my friend, Mr. Broome, of the Temple Gardens. I was alluding to the number of standard roses under my own charge, when he exclaimed, " I should not have thought they would have succeeded in your locality" (Kensington). Yet they do succeed there, and a parallel case has, for several years past, been afforded by our Editor's garden at Stoke Newington, which is one of the homes of the rose. In the detail of my practice herein afforded, I am not so pre- sumptuous as to suppose that any efforts of mine within the limits of the metropolis can ever assure me the attainment of perfection, and I cannot expect to produce flowers like those exhibited by the Rev. E. Pochin at the Crystal Palace Rose Show, or such as the Rev. S. R. Hole, of Newark, and Mr. Hedge, of Colchester, exhibit. But my experience convinces me that we may, with some attention to their requirements, even surpass mediocrity, and that where space is contracted, and the atmosphere occasionally made murky by smoke, which the wind may drive in the direction of our grounds. Certainly, when subjected to such objectionable influences, it requires a man to be on the alert to combat with them, and to point out the way is my object now. In the first place, I must inform my readers that I have to con- tend with a light soil not in the least adhesive. The subsoil, and that at a very little depth, is composed of gravel and sand, so that in dry seasons we suffer very much from drought. The situation is very much elevated, but I do not think that is any drawback in rose culture. To suppose that we can bring the soil up to the standard in THE FLOBAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 13 which it exists in some of our celebrated rose nurseries would be absurd. It is not to be accomplished, even if expense were no object, but of course something may be done to mitigate the effects of an unfavourable soil. I prepare the ground according to the best of my abilities and the means at my command. In doing this I endeavour to concentrate as much nourishment for their roots as I possibly can within a given space, and the quality of the nutri- ment supplied should be such that it will preserve its fertilizing properties for a lengthened period, and be of a nature that will quickly absorb and retain moisture in hot dry seasons. Manure from the cowshed has proved to possess these valuable qualities ; therefore, in planting standard roses, I dig the holes out for some depth, and into the bottom of each hole I put cow manure. I use it in a fresh state if I cannot otherwise obtain it. The remainder of the preparation for planting consists in chopping up the soil to make a proper bed for the roots, which are covered with a thin coat of soil, over which I put plenty of the same manure, filling in with earth. The whole is then very firmly trodden, by which process the soil and manure become sufficiently intermixed. The next question is, how long will this mode of treatment con- tinue to preserve the vigour of the plant ? The reply needs some thought, because we must in a degree be guided by the effects of surrounding vegetation on the growth of the plant. Should there be trees growing in proximity to the spot on which the rose is planted, and the roots of which trees are of a spreading nature, then, depend on it, the roots will travel to where the greatest amount of nourishment exists ; in that case they will soon become entangled with the roots of the rose. This is one of those obstacles to success that must be overcome if possible ; and the only way to remove the difficulty is, in my opinion, to take up the rose trees every second year, and renew the soil and manure, and also clear entirely away any roots of other trees that may be there. The plants will bloom the better in regard to quality by this biennial transplanting, so long as they are not declining in vigour by reason of age. Under the best of management and most favourable aspect, where there is a large collection, annual renewal of plants is more or less necessary, for there will always be a few deaths. In recommending the system of biennial transplanting, I am supposing that the rose trees are distributed in various parts of the grounds, and not confined to one spot. Thus they are subject to many influences, which must retard their progress unless carefully watched. Where a. plot of ground can be entirely devoted to the cultivation of a large number of roses, an advantage is secured in bringing their culture more immediately under control, and the necessity for frequent transplanting does not exist. Thus it is that persons residing far from towns are enabled to produce such superb examples at our exhibitions, because they can avail themselves of abundant space, which is a grand auxiliary to a healthy atmosphere. As to the period for planting or transplanting the rose, it may be done with safety any time betwixt November and February. When the buds begin to swell in the spring, let the soil have two or three 14 THE ELOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. good soakings of water, at intervals of a few days ; this, if the weather is genial, will aid the formation of rootlets. "Where rose trees are planted singly they always require plenty of moisture at their roots, and especially when blooming ; for in the absence of quantity and depth of soil, they always suffer more quickly from drought. The garden engine, or a powerful syringe, should be frequently used to cleanse their leaves of insects or dirt that may accumulate on the surface. Of course they are subject more readily to be infested with vermin, mildew, and dust when cultivated near cities or towns than in the country. Attention to the above requirements during the past season has been, with very few exceptions as compared with the number of plants we grow, both in quantity and quality of bloom, satisfactory. THE CHRYSANTHEMUM IN 1SGS. BY GEORGE GORDON. ]HE season of this useful autumn flower is now past aud gone, and I think we can spend a short time very pro- fitably in taking a retrospective glance of the most important points connected therewith. The public exhibitions of all kinds, including those held by nur- serymen as well as societies, have been unusually brilliant during the past season : sufficiently so to prove that this " middle-class flower " is fast increasing in popularity ; and further, that private growers are becoming alive to its value as a decorative plant, thanks to the able advocacy of our Editor, which has had no small share in bringing about this happy state of things. Every private grower ought to have his conservatory as gay during the cold, damp, foo-gy month of November, as he does in any other month of the twelve. That month is usually looked upon as the most miserable of the whole year, and the one most deficient of floral beauty to enliven it. At this point I stop to inquire, "Whose fault is this ? Not Dame Nature's, certainly. Therefore, it must be that of those who have the management of the conservatories. To show by what simple means a grand display of chrysanthemums can be had, I will just detail the way Mr. James, of Isleworth, treats his plants. Nothing can be easier, and a more beautiful sight than that pre- sented by the grand bank of chrysanthemums in the conservatory under his charge cannot be well imagined. He grows the large flowering kinds only, which when grown moderately well, quite surpass the pompones when seen en masse. The cuttings are struck in March, and directly they are rooted, potted off singly, and as fast as the pots get filled with roots, shifted into a couple of sizes larger at each shift, until they reach No. 12 size, in which they are flowered. They are gradually hardened off in a cold frame, and finally exposed to the open air directly all danger from frost is past. The only attention required from this time until they come into THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 15 flower, will be to repot when the plants need larger pots, and keep theni properly watered. They are not stopped at all, but trained to a single stem, with a neat stick for support. The main stem will emit from sis to ten side-shoots, with a cluster of buds on each. When the buds get large enough to handle, all but one on each shoot is removed, which enables them to attain dimensions that would be impossible were all left. In the autumn, as the flowers begin to open, and frost is likely to set in, Mr. James removes the plants to the conservatory stage, which is about forty feet long and fifteen feet wide, and groups them rather close together, according to the heights and colours. The result of this is a fine bank of flowers, backed up with healthy green foliage, throughout the greater part of November and December. I had no intention of going into cultural details, but the method of treatment is so simple, and the effect produced so grand, that I had Dot the heart to withhold the information. I hope we shall now hear the last of the excuse, that the plants take so much time to grow, for I venture to say that no house of specimens would equal, in point of beauty, a bank of plants grown in this way. It must not be forgotten that they must not be huddled together when growing. When that happens, they grow tall and lanky, and lose the lower portion of foliage, which materially spoils the effect unless packed together, so that the pots touch when placed in the house. The Japanese varieties are likely to supersede those with incurved flowers, for conservatory decoration. The flowers are so large, showy, and in many instances so grotesque in appearance, that they look less stiff and formal than the best of the incurved varieties. There need be no fear of their entirely displacing those that come up to the florist's idea of perfection. Were it so, no one would regret it more than myself. They are, however, rapidly advancing in public favour, and great progress has been made in raising new varieties since their first introduction to this country. There are two distinct types of flowers : one has long, broad, flat petals — this is commonly termed the " ribbon form ;" the other has thin, wiry, thread-like petals. Both forms are valuable for dressing up epergnes, during the time they are in flower ; and the smaller flowers of the latter type are useful for bouquets. They must not, of course, be employed too largely for either of the above purposes, for the faint odour which arises from the chrysanthemum flowers is not always agreeable. They, however, have a much more light and elegant appearance than those belonging to the ordinary varieties. The new varieties that Mr. Salter, who has already done so much in improving the chrysanthemum, intends letting out next spring, are in every way worthy of his reputation. They are all good, and are either improvements on, or distinct from, existing kinds. Taking the Japanese first, we have Meteor, a fine variety, belonging to the thread-petal section ; the flowers are large in size, and of a bright orange colour. Dr. Masters, this belongs to the ribbon class, a grand, bronzy, red flower, with bright golden yellow centre, which gives it a peculiarly rich and novel appearance. Purpureum album 16 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. is a pretty little flower, but more curious than beautiful. The petals are small and thread-like, the prevailing colour being purple and white. Hero of Magdala belongs to the ribbon form, but the flowers are so close and compact, that they bear some resemblance to the ordinary varieties. The petals are bright reddish crimson, with light red backs, without doubt a fine variety. James Salter, this belongs to the ribbon form, but the petals overlap each other, and hang gracefully down, which gives the flowers the appearance of large tassels. The colour is very delicate, being a pinkish lilac, and quite distinct from all others. Apart from the beauty of the flowers, its striking colour alone renders it particularly valuable. Jupiter is a very good fawn-coloured ribbon variety. Star, like the preceding, has flat petals, which are of a bright golden yellow, tinged with bronzy red. The flowers are large, but scarcely so full as a few others. They are, however, good and effective. In G. J?. Wilson we have another grand variety, with flat petals, of a bright golden yellow colour. The flowers are large and full. The Mikado belongs to the thread petal section, and has bright yellow flowers. It is a fine distinct variety. The Japanese varieties are scarcely so well-known yet as their merits deserve, therefore I shall not be very far wrong in calling attention to a few of the best sent out in the spring of 1868. Of those belonging to the ribbon form section, we have Aurantium, a pure yellow-coloured flower, of immense size. Bed Indian, bright Indian red, with fine large double flowers. Sulphurevm, a large double white flower, with sulphur centre, that ought to be in every collection ; and The Daimio, a grand variety, with large rosy lilac flowers. Amongst those with thread petals, the following must not be forgotten : — Comet, a curiously-shaped flower, bright orange changing to reddish chestnut ; Nagasaki Violet, dark rosy violet, with golden disk ; Bed Dragon, reddish chestnut, tipped with golden yel- low, a fine variety ; Boseum Album, rose and white — the flowers of this variety are small and gracefully formed, which renders them valuable for bouquets; Tarantula, yellow; The Tycoon, bright red, with yellow back ; and Wizard, bright reddish maroon, with tassel- like flowers. The selections of large-flowering kinds and pompones in " Horti- cultural Affairs" of the December number, 1868, were so good, that I need not dwell upon the older kinds, but simply give my ideas of the new varieties that are to make their appearance this spring : — Pink Perfection, bright pink, a fine incurved flower, large in size, and of fine form ; Stellaris, a good incurved yellow flower, tipped with orange ; Orange Annie Salter, a fine orange-coloured sport from that good old variety ; Bival Little Harry, this bears a strong resemblance to Little Harry, but the flowers are larger, and the plant is a better grower ; Beethoven, incurved, clear claret ; White Eve, a white sport from Eve ; Lilac Beverley, a fine sport, equal to either of the other forms of this beautiful variety ; Blenijw, a fine, large, incurved variety, of a bright lilac colour. At Mr. Forsyth's, Brunswick Nursery, Stoke Newington, I met with two splendid novelties lately. One is named Mrs. George Haskin THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 17 lcurve stripes and tips. a large, incurved flower, of a rich rosy lilac colour ; the other is Blonde Beauty, a sumptuous show flower, white, with rosy pink THE TUBEEOSE (rOLIANTHES TUBEBOSi). [HE Tuberose is a native of the East Indies ; it grows more in the manner of an elegant carex than in the ordinary fashion of a lily, and in fact belongs to the Hemerocallis group of lilies, all of which throw up a semi-grass-like tuft of leaves from a common centre, and out of that centre the tuberose produces a tall green stem, sparely beset with lax lanceolate light greeu leaves, and surmounted by about twenty to forty most elegant flowers, which may be likened to double hyacinths, with a very long greenish-white tube, extra long and elegantly recurved segments, the substance thick and wax-like, of the most pure ivory-white, and emitting a rich spicy odour, so powerful that one flower will scent an apartment, and one spike will diffuse a perceptible fragrance through a conservatory fifty feet long — that is, if the flowers are open during sunny weather. Why attempt a description of this well-known plant ? Solely because almost nobody knows it. Catch fifty gardeners at random, and ask about the tuberose, and, if they speak true, forty-nine of them will confess they have never seen it. It follows that forty-nine have never grown it, or at all events never flowered it ; for you may buv and grow bulbs for a lifetime, and never see the flowers. The why and the wherefore of this is that a considerable proportion of all the tuberose bulbs sold in England are not of flowering size; they have no flowers in them when purchased, and it is very certain none can come out. Let us just go back to the old plan. We used to order our bulbs at Christmas, and wait for them. They came to hand about IsTew Tear's Day, and we no sooner clutched them than they were potted singly in 48-size, in a nice light fuchsia compost, and put on a tan bed. They had a bottom-heat of 703 or thereabouts, with very little water (a momentous point that) till they began to grow; then we watered freely, and kept them growing. When the pots were full of roots, we gave them a shift to the next size, or 32, and in that size they were flowered. We kept them on the tan-bed, freely watered, till the end of Ma}r, when the flower-spikes were well advanced, and then they were staged, and had no help in the w*ay of heat but such as the sun afforded them, which was always sufficient. By the middle of June they were in full bloom. I always thought that they flowered when they were not wanted; for in June and July, when the tuberoses were at their best, we were overwhelmed with flowers, and were glad enough when all the spikes of tuberoses were cut — as they always were ; not one was allowed to wither in VOL. IV. — NO. I. 2 18 THE ELOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. site— and we could toss the plants on to the muck-heap, and say good-bye to them for a season. But we always had a few that did not flower, and those few we kept secret, for fear they might prove that we were muffs after all ; and those few went to the same igno- minious rest as the rest, or as the remainder ; they all slept together, and rotted like mortal things, earth to earth, dust to dust. Mr. Salisbury told, in the " Horticultural Transactions," how to grow them in the open air — that is to say, how to flower them in borders ; but I never could do it, and never met with the human creature that could. Probably Mephistopheles, a particular friend of our excellent contributor Karl Prosper, could do it. Well, iu due time, I discovered that the ladies (speaking collectively when a few only of that angelic assembly are referred to) were in perpetual trouble about tuberoses. Letters used to arrive in batches every mouth, in which the lovely and loveable writers complained that though their tuberoses grew freely, they would not flower. These I always answered (see Ploral Would passim) to the effect that " a good start in heat was the royal road to success," and always thought thereby I had done the honest and the clever thing. Yet I felt that there was a problem to be solved, and a conversation at Barr and Sugden's brought it all fresh before me ; and I selected samples of the several qualities of tuberose bulbs, to make a trial of them without the aid of heat. They were for some time forgotten, but I stumbled upon the parcel one day, and had them potted in batches with labels to every pot, all of them in threes in 32-size, in a mixture of equal parts rich loam, leaf-soil, and a half part silver-sand. They were potted in the first week of April ; the stuff just moist enough to be handled comfortably ; not a drop of water given, and they were placed on the floor of a cool house. There they remained about six weeks, nearly dry, though occasionally watered to prevent them becoming dust-dry. At the expiration of the six weeks, or, say about the third week of May, signs of growth were evinced iu a greening of the points of the bulbs, and as the sun was then smiling I had them placed on a top shelf, that the pots might be warmed to give the roots a start. Twice a week they had water, but they were still rather dry, owing to the light nature of the soil and the careful manner in which the pots had been crocked. By the middle of June they were growing freely, and the suckers had the best of it for a time, though eventually the crowns in all cases gained the supremacy, and the leaves of the suckers served as surfacing. As they advanced, the supplies of water were increased, and by the middle of August they were in a luxurious condition of leafage, and one of the secrets of their biology began to explain itself. All the extra selected bulbs were showing flower-spikes, and the flowers could be felt by the finger and thumb as the riding stem came out of the central crown. Thus they went on, the selected throwing up more and more spikes, but the others — all of them — refusing to act so politely, grovelling still in the unlovely state of flaccid leaves of a light grassy-green. We gave them more and more water, and had at last to take them off the shelf because of their growth, which was hampered for want of room ; and they were stood on inverted pots in the border of the THE FLOEAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 19 house, enjoying plenty of light with unlimited head-room. On the 18th of September the flower-buds were decidedly white, and were beginning to elongate preparatory to expanding ; yet not one of them that had no help of heat was fully expanded till the 10th of October. I cut the first spike, and put it in a vase on the mantel- shelf of my sitting-room, where there was a fire daily, and the warmth helped out the few remaining buds at the top. As for the rest, they opened well without the aid of heat up to the 23rd of October, when the cold told upon them, and the flowers began to rot in the bud. It may be put on record that tuberoses will not open kindly at a less temperature than 60\ and a temperature of 70' is far better, especially to bring out their rich spicy fragrance. One observation in particular deserves notice — that the small bulbs of tuberoses are useless, and if you want flowers you must obtain the largest bulbs that come into the market. You want hard bulbs two inches thick, and weighing about two ounces each, to pay for potting. S. H. WB BHH ys HEATING SMALL GBEENHOUSES. BY W. BAXTEE. HAVE had some experience in the matter, having built myself several small plant-houses, none of which are heated in what you would call a proper manner. The fact is, I have been watching your writings for several years, and whenever you have dropped upon plants that I thought I could grow consistently with my means, I have at- tempted it, and the result is a very large collection of most useful and beautiful subjects that have cost me but little, most of which are of the class of nearly hard// plants, such as Camellias, Cytisus, Coronilla, Mitraria coccinea, Lapageria rosea, greenhouse Eerns (and how nearly hardy are hundreds of these !), Deutzias, etc., etc. I have had to keep frost out of my little houses by hook and by crook, as the saying is ; and I will just remark upon the means that I have proved effectual. I attach very great importance to Musgrave's Slow Combustion Stove, made by Musgrave Brothers, of High Street, Belfast. Tou called attention to it some years ago, and I bought a small one for £4 10s. This I was at first inclined to give up, not having, in the first instance, given it flue enough. But, when I put a 3-inch iron pipe 6 feet long, with mushroom top, on a 2-feet length of 4-inch drain-pipe, the drain-pipe fitting on the stove, and the iron pipe fitting in the upper end of the drain-pipe, the stove burnt admirably, and I can manage it so as to go eight hours with coke broken to the size of walnuts. Well, this does duty for a lean-to house 20 feet long by 7 feet wide, and I have a fire only in frosty weather till the 1st of February, and then I keep the fire going night and day till the 1st of March, and then put it out for the season. Another little house is kept safe by one of 20 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Joyce's Patent Stoves, which is decidedly effectual and decidedly expensive. I don't know what it costs per week for charcoal to keep it going, but I know it is more than I care to pay. Neverthe- less, one of these, for which I paid fifteen shillings, keeps the frost out of a little lean-to house measuring 9 feet each way, and I should think it would do for a house double that size, for I could get heat enough out of mine to roast everything if I wished to do so. The way in which I regulate the draught is to attach a hook made of No. 1 iron wire, on the edge of the opening which admits the draught, and push the slide down upon the wire. This leaves a slit for air about the sixteenth of an inch. Rushlights and candles I have used many a time in pits and frames ; they are expensive while the game goes on ; yet, as we seldom have frosts that last beyond ten days of any degree of severity, a few shillings or a pound or two spent in a lump is not an extravagant thing after all. I con- sider if I had a boiler and pipes, the first outlay would be consi- derable, and then coke would cost something. Besides, my little houses are scattered about in places where I could find space to build them, and consequently one boiler would not heat them all without great expense and loss of heat by the distance it would have to travel. Lastly, I tried Hays's Patent Constant Stove last winter. It is an admirable thing, elegant in appearance, easily managed, and has the great advantage of burning slowly, so that roasting is impossible. I advise all who use small stoves to have flues to them. I don't believe in innocuous vapours if fuel is burned in a house with plants. Easy enough : take a sufficient length of iron gas-pipe, get a smith to fix it so that it will screw into the top of the stove when required, which allows of its being removed in summer. To carry it through the roof, knock out a square of glass, and insert instead a square of zinc, with a hole cut in it for the pipe to pass through, and daub a little putty round outside to make it watertight. A neighbour of mine has a beautiful house of plants economi- cally and effectually heated by a small conical boiler set in brick- work. These are really the best of boilers for small houses. The way in which heating is made expensive is the fid-fadding style of fitting the pipes together with iron cement. My neighbour em- ployed Mr. Lynch White, of Upper Ground Street, Blackfriars, and, to his and my surprise, there was no cement used. I knew of the simple and cheap way of fitting pipes without cement, but I had an idea the trade repudiated it on account of its cheapness. Not so in this case ; the pipes were first fitted with vulcanized India- rubber rings, or collars, then driven home, and the job was done. One of these boilers, and a service of 4-inch pipes, is the best system for any house between 30 and GO feet in length ; but about larger houses I can say nothing, having had no experience or oppor- tunity for observation. 21 THE CAPE JESSAMINE (GARDENIA). BT^J. BA3TSLEY TANTOtf, E.E.H.S., EPSOM NUESEEIES. [HERE is no plant indigenous to the Cape peninsula more worthy of cultivation than this. The beautiful white and deliciously-scented flowers, seated upon the apex of shoots which are clothed with dark shiny cordate-lanceolate foliage, render it one of the most charming objects of the floral kingdom. An inflorescence of this plant captivates and is universally held in high esteem by the fair sex, and yet how seldom do we final it receiving at the hands of growers that care and attention it deserves. In the successful management, two great points should be care- fully attended to in order to insure success ; viz., the growing and resting seasons, which should be as distinctly marked as is possible to effect artificially. Taking the physical nature of the country from whence this beautiful family comes as a guide, in this favoured clime the summer or growing season is marked with great heat and humidity, which excite the growth iuto great luxuriance, and this state is followed by a cooler temperature and very dry atmosphere. It is at this season that the plant receives that check which pre- disposes the growth to be arrested, and all wood-buds to be trans- muted to flowers, the expansion of which commences immediately the summer season recommences. Thus the outlines of the habits of this plant in its native wilds will at once suggest to the amateur the course of treatment to pursue in order to enjoy this, one of Na- ture's sweetest gems. I have always found this plant to succeed best in a common hotbed of good stable dung, made up about the beginning of February ; and when the heat is sweetened, the pots should be plunged up to their rims, securing a bottom-heat of about 75°, and the atmospheric about 60\ Previous to plunging, the plants should be partially shaken out and repotted into an admix- ture of peat, loam, and silver-sand, taking care to drain the pots well with small pounded potsherds. The plants at this stage must be carefully watered, but should be syringed twice a day with water heated to about 8-5°, being careful to saturate the whole of the woodwork of the inside of the frame ; this generates that great humidity in which these plants revel ; in fact, to grow the Gardenia well, excessive humidity, with a steady heat, is the great and chief agent ; it appears to imbibe, through the stomates of its leaves and bark, almost sufficient moisture to sustain it during growth. As the season advances, air should be given sparingly, until the latter end of March, when, should the weather be open and warm, air should be increased, but the frames closed early after midday. At this period the growth will have become completed, and the flower- buds formed, when the plants can be lifted out into a warm stove, there to expand their chaste flowers. At this time humidity must be decreased, or the purity of the flowers will be much deteriorated. 22 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Flowering will continue till the latter end of May, when the plants should be stood in a cool house or pit, receiving plenty of air and light, in order to ripen the wood and prepare the plant for another growing campaign. The two best species of this charming family for purposes of decoration and perfume are radicans major and florida. There are, however, other species indigenous to Sierra Leone, which are perhaps more interesting from the peculiar markings of their flowers than for their great beauty. This genus appears to have a wide geogra- phical range, and to be distributed throughout the continent of South America, the Cape, and Japan — the latter country having recently furnished the strangely-marked florida variegata. THE HOEIZONTAL COEDOK' IT is well known that we have strongly advocated the culture of the apple on the true French Paradise stock. It should be equally well . known that some of the most distinguished horticulturists in the j aJLejBll country have condemned it. During the past season, we have had many opportunities of testing the grounds of their opinions, and found them all wanting, and that the apple trained as a horizontal cordon is a perfect success in all sorts of soils and climates, provided it be in all cases grafted on the true French Paradise stock. What is called the English Paradise is entirely unfit for this purpose, except on the dry est and poorest soils, and even then only with frequent removals. As will be readily seen, this is no matter or argument, but simply one for expe- riment ; and we appeal to the horticulturists of Britain to settle the question by direct trial, a thing they can so readily do. The English Paradise, recommended by Mr. Rivers for this purpose, is the Doucin — one that is intermediate between the crab and the Paradise, well fitted for neat standards, pyramids, large bushes, etc., but growing too vigorously to furnish anything but disappointment if planted as a low cordon, except on very light calcaieous or "burning" soils. To plant the apple on the common or crab stock, and expect to form a dwarf fertile tree, is simply folly. By mutilation, removals, etc., you may secure a crop, and keep the Doucin, or English Paradise, within bounds ; but what we want is a stock that will furnish a dwarf and fertile growth, without any root-pruning or attention whatever, beyond that of pinching in the shoots two or three times in summer, according to luxuriance. This we exactly have in the Paradise stock, grown by millions in the nurseries around Paris, and in many other parts of France. What we say of it can be proved at once by any person having loamy or clayey land ; and yet Mr. Rivers has completely denounced this plant, the value of which it is not easy to exaggerate, inasmuch as it enables us to grow the finest apples ever seen in an incredibly short time. With many of our friends, we intend trying it forthwith ; and those of our readers who wish to fairly test the system, and find any difaculty in procuring the finer kinds of apple on the true Paradise stock, will find them in the nurseries of Mr. Charles Turner, of Slough ; Mr. B. S. Williams, of Holloway ; and Mr. J. F. Meston, of Woodham Nursery, Addlestone, Surrey ; who have, at our request, undertaken to keep a stock of these trees on hand. We furnish a list of the very best apples for this purpose. Possibly all of them may not be found grafted on the French Paradise, but in any case it is desirable that the very best kinds be made known. As the system is chiefly valuable for the production of superb dessert fruit, only the finest kinds should be selected ; but, as some appks are of high value both for kitchen and dessert, some of the finer kitchen apples are included in the following THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 23 list. The following will be found very suitable : — Reinette du Canada, Reinette du Canada Grise, Reinette Grise, Reinette de Caux, Reinette d'Espagne, Reinette tres Tardive, Belle Dubois, Pornme d'Api, Mela Carla, Calville St. Sauveur, Coe's Golden Drop, Newtown Pippin, Calville Blanc, Northern Spy, The Melon, Cox's Orange Pippin, Duke of Devonshire, Kerry Pippin, Lodgemore Nonpareil, White Nonpareil, The Mother, Early Harvest, Lord Burleigh, Beauty of Kent, Bedfordshire Found- ling, Lord Suffield, Cox's Pomona, Dumelow's Seedling, Hawthornden, Tower of Glammis, Winter Hawthornden, Betty Geeson, and Small's Admirable. Some of the best of the above are valuable keeping apples. We saw the Rei- nette Grise in fine condition in the markets at Rouen last June, and Reinette tres Tardive is good in July. Those who wish to plant good early apples might try Barovitsky, and a few of the best early kinds ; but it is best to devote most of our horizontal cordons to the growth of the finer, later, and most valuable fruits. Of the above selection, the Calville Blanc, the Reinette du Canada, and Mela Carla must be grown on a warm wall ; Newtown Pippin, Mother, Melon, and several of the other later and liner apples, will also be grateful for the same protection. The splendid Calville Blanc apples, now seen in Covent Garden and the newly-opened fruit-shop in Regent Street, have all been grown against walls in the northern parts of France, and not, as has been generally supposed, in some warm and para- disaical spot in that country. In addition to the objections above stated, some are good enough to observe that the cordons may, under certain circumstances, be desirable for amateurs, etc., but that practically they are to be regarded as toys. If, as we believe, they will sup- plant our present mode of cultivating the apple as a standard, half-standard, and pyramid and bush-tree, they will prove toys only in the sense in which a guinea is a toy to a penny-piece. We have urged the advantages of improved orchard- culture so much that it is needless to repeat commendation of it here ; what we admire in the horizontal cordon is, that it is the simplest method for doing away wTith the gouty old apple-trees which now, in multitudes of cases, shade our gardens, haunt them with ugliness, and, as people rarely let them have their own way, as in orchards, but keep cutting them in annually, a lasting puzzle to the pruner, who, in cutting them in annually, merely makes them uglier, more vigorous, and less useful. — The Field. OPEN-AIR ENGLISH GRAPES. ,HE neighbourhood around Bury St. Edmund's is specially favourable for the culture of the Vine. Any of the hardier varieties, such as the Claret, Black Cluster, Miller's Burgundy, and the Muscardine, will thrive on almost any of the houses in the town, or on the cottages for several miles around it. Since the frosts of May, this hot season has been highly favourable for grape-culture ; still, mildew has been more than usually prevalent on starved vines out-of-doors, and on many of those which were certainly not starved in vineries. It was instructive to mark the doings of the May frosts in St. Peter's Vineyard, in Bury. The vineyard consists of a very high wall, with a border covered with cordons near the ground ; and finally four or five rows of plants, placed at a yard square, and tied up to stakes a yard high. The wall, from its massiveness, and the fact that a great portion of it slightly overhangs, resisted the frost. The wood of the cordons had suffered considerably from cold the previous season, so that in any case they would not have borne a full crop. But the frost destroyed the greater portion of their fruit that did show, whereas those that were further from the wall, and in colder positions, as standards, carried through a full crop. Their superior altitude elevated them into a warmer region, and their tops afforded sufficient protection to their colder bottoms, so that from base to summit they were laden with fruit. These standards averaged twenty compact bunches apiece, and a more beautiful sight could seldom be seen in England than some hundreds of them heavily weighted with their luscious burdens. A gentleman who had seen large tracts of Swiss and Frencdi vineyards this season, assured me that he saw nothing that exceeded the health and fruitfulness of those at Bury. 21 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. The wall was literally covered from end to end with grapes. Many of the bunches were also of large size, and the berries admirably swelled and coloured. Mr. Darkin, the proprietor, will forward a bunch of Miller's Royal Muscadine with this, to allow you to judge for yourselves. [Fine and excellent in quality ; the bunch weighed 2 lbs. 11 oz. — Eds.] Many of the Ramburghs,]Frontignans, etc., have been equal to those grown under glass ; and it is a singular fact that while the Frontignans ripen perfectly on this wall, they never show any signs of shanking — the bunches are plump and perfect, from broadest shoulder to lowest tapering extremity, without one imperfect berry. About a ton of grapes have been harvested from this one vineyard this season ; and the wood for next year is large and firm, as brown as cinnamon, and as hard as buck's-horn. From these facts it will be seen that grape growing in the open-air is a decided success at Bury St. Edmund's, and doubtless it might prove so in thousands of other localities if it were but fairly tried. There seems no good reason why not only dead walls, but the fronts of dwelling-houses in the public streets, might not be covered with grape-vines or other trees. I resided this summer, while attending the Leicester meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, at Rothsey, a small town about five miles from Leicester. Many of the bouses in the public streets were covered with grape-vines, and covered with fruit. They were planted in the pave- ment, the stem carried up straight, to a height of six or seven feet from the ground, and the branches then led horizontally all over the houses. Most of these vines were suffering severely from mildew ; but this was, 1 understood, an accident of the season, the fruit generally ripening well. Doubtless, a good deluging or two of water, and an immediate dressing of sulphur, would have rid them of the pest ; but the vines seemed to receive no care whatever. Most of them were old and of great size, and, with the exception of a little pruning, they appeared to be left to shift wholly for themselves. On one point I was satisfied upon on the spot — the fruit was considered perfectly safe. No one seemed to fear having their grapes stolen. This confidence might arise from the number of the vines, there being a great many scattered over the town. I also observed some very fine apricot trees, laden with their offerings of golden fruit. They were planted in the same manner, and endured their hard feeding-ground— the street — well ; in fact no trees could have looked better. "What is done at Rothsey might surely be done in hundreds of towns and villages throughout England. Whole districts might be enwreathed with beauty, and thou- sands of hungry mouths filled with the most luscious fruit that have now to go watering away. Doubtless, at first, the temptation might prove too strong for the hoys ; but, once the habit of growing fruits on the outside walls of the houses in streets or public roads became general, every boy w>m)d have some of his own, and would thus acquire a vested interest in protecting his neighbours'. — D. T. Fish, F.R.H.8., in Gardener'1 s Chronicle. Prestoe Fund. — The following circular will, we trust, be sufficient to enlist the sympathies of our readers for a most deserving cause : " Your co-operation and assistance are solicited in the most earnest manner towards raising a subscription on behalf of the Widow and Children of thelate Mr. W. S. Prestoe, head gardener at Victoria Park, who died on the 9th instant, after a few days' illness, of fever, con- sequent on a cold taken during his exertions in preparing the usual yearly show of chrysanthemums. There are at present six young children, to which number, in two or three months, there will be an addition, and then the oldest will be under ten years. A committee has been formed, with power to add to their number, and their energies will be directed towards raising a sufficient sum to place her in some small ■way of business, by which she may be enabled to procure a living for herself and children. The Committee feel their efforts will not be in vain, considering the personal respect in which her late husband was held by many friends, and the pleasure the frequenters of Victoria Park have derived from his labours. The Com- mittee will meet on every Wednesday evening, at half-past seven, at Mr. Steptoe's, the Crown Tavern, Old Ford Road, Victoria Park, when your attendance is respect- fully solicited. — A. Wentzell, Treasurer, Avenue House, Grove Iload, South Hackney. W. H. Gathercole, Hon. Sec, 1, Heasman's Terrace, Sewardstom Road East, Victoria Park." 25 JAPANESE SHEUBS. HERE are numerous hardy evergreens introduced from Japan within the last few years, very ornamental, but unfortunately some of which present certain difficulties in the way of culture. To begin with the Skimmias, which when healthy and thriving are amongst the most useful of low-growing shrubs. In your article on Skimmias, in the number for July, 1867, you have given us the result of your experience, and taking advantage of the hints contained in that article, I have since been able to grow those plants with complete success, as far as the production of numerous and healthy leaves. I took the shrubs out of the pots and planted them in peat, in a moist, shady border, under trees or large shrubs. The great fault I find with them is, that they persist in flowering at the wrong season of the year. For instance, instead of exhibiting a fine show of berries at this present time, when they would he most welcome, my plants are only just coming into flower. Of course placing them in a hot-house would hasten the formation of berries, but as all the species are perfectly hardy, I shall not be satisfied iintil I can persuade them to be a little more regular in their habits. S. oblata and S. fragrans exhibit the same eccentricity of habit, and are now in flower in my garden. In respect of unseasonable flowering, the new Aucubas, both male and female, are also sad culprits, all of my out-of-door plants are now commencing to flower, and this I find is the case with those grown by many nurserymen. No doubt this arises from the continued forcing they under- went on their first introduction into this country, and probably, in the course of time, they will resume their natural order of growth, and flower at the same time as the old female spotted variety. The next shrubs that I wish to draw attention to, are the variegated varieties of the Euonymus, charming shrubs, particularly useful in winter, when anything cheerful and gay is so welcome in our borders. The only doubt I have about these plants is, whether the golden varieties are likely to retain their variegation when they attain their full growth. This I have great fears about, as nearly all my plants already show a tendency to turn green, although they are planted in poor, gritty soil. The silver varieties I find to be more stedfast in this respect, and are likely to prove more satisfactory. Desfontania spinosa will doubtless be a general favourite whenever the plants attain a decent size, but unfortunately in growth they are the slowest of the slow. From the experience of the last two winters I think that I>. spinosa may be pronounced to be quite hardy in the south of England. By way of precaution, however, I plant my specimens in sheltered spots, and in almost pure peat, with a little half-rotten manure on the surface, to stimulate their growth in the spring. Of Osmanthus ilicif'olius, both green and variegated, I cannot speak too highly ; the latter, in particular, are generally admired, and should they attain anything near the same size, are likely from their beauty and hardiness to prove formidable rivals to the variegated hollies. J. J- Littleboume. [We have never experienced the difficulty with skimmias that our correspondent complains of, and as we use them in the plunging system for the sake of their scarlet berries, they would be useless if they were not fruitful. They always show clusters of flower-buds in October, but we never knew the flowers to be open until the spring was sufficiently advanced to favour the formation of fruit. We suspect that J. J. only needs a little more patience to find the skimmia tractable and useful. At all events, we do not advise him to house his plants, especially as they are planted out, because they would not fruit well after any serious disturbance of the roots. It appears, if we may judge by this case, that the cold climate north of London in which ours do so well, is better for these Japanese shrubs than the warmer district of Kent, where J. J. resides. But remembering how superbly the Japanese shrubs grow in the warmer parts of Devonshire, we cannot but believe that the warmer the climate the better for them. When grown in pots, the skimmias might no donbt be the better for the shelter of a cool house all the winter, but artificial heat would injure them. As to the early flowering of the male aucuba, this is certainly the result of the forcing to which it has been subjected by the trade, in order to multiply it rapidly. In our first fruiting of aucuba, we gathered the pollen in October, and kept it in a tin box until March, when the 26 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. female plants were in flower, and then it proved quite effectual. But in the second year our male plants flowered at the same time as the females, and there was no need to store the pollen, it was taken off and applied at once. This difficulty, therefore, we conclude will vanish ; we have hut to treat the male aucuba as a hardy plant, and it will give no further trouble. The golden varieties of Euonj-mus do certainly tend to run out, and that is a misfortune. In all our travels we have never seen large specimens of these shrubs, but small ones are plentiful. We can only keep it true for employment in the plunging system by constantly propagating, so in July or August every year we put in lots of cuttings. The newest vai'iety, called latifolia, is not only more showy than the old golden-leaved Jnponica, but is less given to retrogression. Its tone of yellow is not near so rich and striking as that of the older plant, but then its green tones are lighter and its yellow variegation is diffused over the whole plant. For all the variegated plants that do best in poor soil we save a heap of the exhausted stuff turned out of pots, which experience has taught us is, as a rule, the best possible soil in which to grow them. We are much indebted to J. J. for the note ,on Desfontania ; if it should prove to he generally hardy it will be invaluable, but we fear it is only in sheltered places that it will survive an ordinary winter, except perhaps in some few spots in the extreme south- west of the island. One of the most striking and ornamental of the new Japanese shrubs is the thick-leaved Ligustrum coriaceum, which we advise J. J. to obtain, it he does not already possess it.] NEW PLANTS. [ASSIFLORA GLAUCA (Gard, Chron., 1867, 1070).— Passifloracese. An arborescent species from New Granada, with fine large glaucous green folhige. The flowers are white, succeeded by medium-sized fruit, which is bright yellow when ripe. Will probably do well in a cool greenhouse. Cypripedium Stonei, var. Platyn^vium (Gard. Chron., 1867, p. 1118). — Orchidaceoe. A fine variety of this well-known species, with long and beautifully- spotted petals. Acer Frederici Guileli.it (Rev. Sort., 18G7, t. 391). — A heautiful Japanese maple, of a slender growth and spreading habit. The leaves, when young, are of a brownish red, which changes when older to a greenish red, sometimes streaked with rose and white. Acer orxatum (Rev. Hort., 1867, 391). — A heautiful deciduous tree, with feathery branches, bearing the leaves en slender petioles. Their divisions are deeply cut, with toothed segments of a dull red, and aiterwards becoming greenish-red. It appears to be the same as the plant with the inconveniently lengthy name of A. pal- matuni dissectum foliis pinnatifidis roscc-pictis ! Native of Japan. Clematis Davidiaxa (Rev. Hort., 1867, 90). — Ranunculacea?. A desirable and showy hardy perennial, growing about two and a-half feet high, bearing blue tubu- lose flowers, which are mostly produced in clusters. The more numerous flowers render it superior to C. tuhulosa, to which it is allied. Native of China. Lilium auratum rubrum (Rev. Hort., 1867, 371). — Liliacece. A charming variety of this noblest of all lilies, differing from the ordinary form in having the hand of golden yellow on each petal exchanged for a similar band of a rosy red. Lilium pseudo-tig-rinum (Rev. Hort., 1867, 411). — A very pretty hardy bulb, quite distinct from L. tigrinum, growing about three feet high, with linear leaves aud solitary flowers of a dull red colour, dotted with small dark brown spots. Rhus Osbecki (Rev. Hort., 1867, 111). — Anacardiacece. An elegant shruh of spreading branching habit, with smooth bark, and large leaves. Anthukium Geitneriakum (Gartenjlora, t. 540). — Orontiaceaj. A stove peren- nial, with dark green leaves on long petioles, and a spadix, with green leathery spathe, supported on a long scape. Clerodendron serotinum (Rev. Hort., 1867, 351). — Verhenacea:. A branched vigorous-habited greenhouse or half-hardy shrub, suitable for tbe summer garden. The flowers are sweet-scented, pure white, with an angular rose-coloured calyx, and are produced in large panicles a foot or more acress. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 27 Oxcidium macropus (Gard. Chron., 186S, p. 12.5). — Orchidaceoe. The bulbs of this species are similar to 0. macranthum, and the flowers yellow, with blotches and bars over the surface, of little value to cultivators. Oncidicm Porrigens {Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 125). — Orchidacese. A species of no merit. Sepals and petals brown ; lips cinnamon. Acacia. Ausfeldii (Gartenflora, t. 550). — Leginroincscc. A greenhouse ever- green shrub, with linear phyllodes, and axillary peduncles bearing rnairy-flowered capitules of yellow blossoms. Native of Australia. Pbunus Padum (Neerl. Plant., t. 48). — Rosacea?. An early-flowering plum, with large semi-double flowers, white, or more or less tinted with rose. Crataegus Oxyacantha coccinea flore-pleno. — Rosacea;. A fine sport from the double pink thorn, with crimson ilowers. Codieum (Croton) Veitchiaxum (Rev. Sort., 1867, 189). — Enphorbiaceoe. A beautiful stove evergreen shrub, with blightly undulated leaves, which have red footstalks, and when young are green, traversed by a hroad band of yellow, which passes with age into rose and carmine purple, the intensity of these colours increasing as the leaves become older. Introduced by Messrs. Veitch and Sons from the South Sea Islands. Dichokisandra musaica (Flore des Serren, t. 1711-12). — Commelynaceje. This most remarkable stove perennial was exhibited at the International Exhibition of 1866. The leaves are ovate acute, deep reddish purple beneath, dark green above, beautifully marked with close broken transverse irregular white lines. The flowers are white and blue. HiEMADiCTTOx nutans maxima (Flore des Serres, t. 1728). — Apocynacece. Dis- tributed under the name of Eehites rubro-venosa. The dark olive-green sur- face of the leaf is traversed by red veins. The bright red midrib has a narrow bar of pale bright green on each side, which adds very greatly to its beauty. Polymnia pyramidalis (Rev. Sort., 1867, 211). — CompositEe. A tall-growing shrubby perennial, recommended for summer flower-gardening, having been used for this purpose in Paris ; it grows ten feet high in a season, forms a pyramidal head, bears large cordate leaves, and is decorated with yellow flower-heads, having a dark brown disk. Native of New Grenada. Allamanda nobilis (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 180). — Apocynacea;. A magni- ficent species, introduced from Rio Branco, Brazil, by Mr. Bull. The flowers are an immense size, and of a clear bright yellow, without markings of any kind. It has a trailing habit, and will eventually become one of the leading kinds for exhibition. L.ELLA albida, var. Tuckeri (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 208). — Orchidacece. A grand variety of this well-known and beautiful species, The flowers are large, and of a lovely amethyst colour, with purple lip. L/Elia albida, var. brunxea ( Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 208). — Orchidacese. The sepals and petals are chesnut brown, with lip of same colour. Ljelia albida, var. ochracea_( Grarrf. Chron., 1868, p. 208). — Oichidaceae. Rather a poor variety, with pale brown sepals and petals, and rather darker coloured lip. Begonia nigrovenia (Gartenflora, t. 545). — Begoniacece.A. stove perennial, with a creeping rhizome. Bright green leaves, with the principal ribs dark red. The flowers are small and numerous. Clematis Lady Bovill (Floral Mag., t. 370). — Raminculacere. One of the fine hybrids raised at the Woking Nursery. It is distinct in habit from the rest of the novelties which have rendered that place so famous, having more of the cha- racter of lanuginosa manifest in the plant. The buds and exterior of the sepals are quite woolly. The flowers are large, with short, broad, concave sepals, and the colour is a pale greyish blue. Miconia Teysmanniaxa (Gartenflora, t. 537). — Melastomaceae, A stove shrub of considerable size, with elliptic-ovate five-nerved leaves, of a metallic green, and a terminal panicle of small white flowers. Native of the Eastern Archipelago. Saxchezia nobilis variegata (La Beige Sort., 1867, 14). — Acanthaceje. One of the finest of stove plants which have lately been introduced. It is of free growth, with large oblong leaves, boldly striped with rich golden yellow, and bearing, like the type, fine yellow flowers, issuing from crimson bracts. Native of Bolivia. Eupatorium Haageanum (Gartenflora, t. 555). — Compositas. An erect shrubby 28 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. greenhouse plant, with opposite, ovate-acuminate leaves, and small heads of white flowers. Eupatoricm Weinmannianum {Gartenflora, t. 555). — A shrubby greenhouse plant, with opposite, elliptic, lanceolate leaves, and small capitules of white flowers, forming a large corymbose head. Ortgiesia Tillandsioides {Gartenflora, t. 547). — Bromeliacece. A dwarf stove perennial, with short stems, spongy leaves, and short spikes of red flowers nestling in the heart. Native of Tropical America. Miltonia festiva {Gard. Chron., 1S6S, p. 572).— Orchidacea?. A beautiful Miltonia, similar in form to M. spectabilis, with yellow sepals and petals, and dark purple lip. Prunus subhirtella {Neerl. Plant., t. 49). — Rosacea?. This elegant hardy flowering tree is the Cerasus pendula of Siebold's Catalogue. It forms a small tree, with pendant branches, furnished with small leaves, and white flowers with a red calyx, borne three or four together on the short growths from the flowering buds. Native of Japan. Cochliostema Jacobianum ( Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 264). — An extraordinary stove epiphyte, with large leaves three and a-half feet long by six inches in width. From Ecuador. It grows in a large tuft, the flower-spikes being produced from the axils of the leaves. Cattleya speciosissima Lowii {Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 404). — Orchidacese. A beautiful introduction from Venezuela, by Messrs. Low. This surpasses in beauty all the forms of C. labiata. The sepals and petals are of a fine soft flesh colour, with a fine amethyst-coloured lip. The flowers are of an immense size, measuring eight inches across. The individual petals being four inches in width. Aristolochia Ducharteei {Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 516). — Aristolochiacea?. A free-growing species from the Upper Amazon. The leaves are smooth, rather thick in texture, and broadly ovate-acuminate, and the flowers are produced in tufts from the old wood, are of a pale brown colour. Denbrobium crystallinum {Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 572). — Orchidacea. A noble addition to this fine genus. One of Messrs. Veitch and Son's Burmese intro- ductions. It has stout bulbs. The sepals and petals are pure white, tipped with rosy purple. The lip has a purplish apex, with fine orange disk. The whole of the colours are pure and bright, and it can fairly lay claim to being one of the best Dendrobes yet introduced. Mtosotis dissitiflora {Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 599.)— Boraginacea3. This beautiful Forget-me-not was first introduced by Mr. Atkins, of Painswick, in 1852, from Switzerland, and has since been known under the name of M. montana. One of the best for spring gardening. Odontoqlossum Andersoxiantjm {Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 599). — Orchidaeeaj. A beautiful addition to this lovely genus, introduced by Messrs. Low from New Granada. Flowers pale yellow, barred with cinnamon-coloured stripes. !* Acanthophcenix crinita {Flore des Serres, t. 1706-7).— Palmse. A very elegant stove palm, with the petioles densely armed with black needle-shaped spines, and beautifully pinnate glossy-green sickle-shaped fronds. Abies numidica {Flore des Serres, t. 1717-18). — Coniferae. A fine hardy ever- green tree, from Algeria, remarkable for its pyramidal habit and silvery leaves. It grows from fifty to sixty feet or more in height, with a trunk about sixteen inches diameter, and forms a compact coaical mass, composed of numerous branches, thickly furnished with dark green leaves, silvery on the under surface. Beetolonia margaritacea {Flore des Serres, t. 1697). — Melastomaceas. A charming dwarf stove perennial, with broad ovate five-nerved leaves, of a dark shaded olive green above, spotted in lines with white pearly spots, and of a bright red beneath. The flowers are pale rose. Eranthemum igneum {Flore des Serres, t. 1722). — Acanthaceae. A pretty dwarf stove perennial, with broadish elongate-oval leaves, of a dark dull green, the main and principal lateral nerves being marked out by distinct flame-coloured bands passing into yellow towards the extremities. Native of Peru. 29 THE G-ABDEN GUIDE. Bar.— 29'900 Thek.— 43, 33, 38. } Sfanuarg* Rain. — 2 in. P. W— S.W., W., and N.W. Greenhouse Flowers. — Chinese Pri- mula, Primula sinensis; Tree Carnation, Correa speciosa ; Oytisus Atleeana, and racemosus ; Cyclamen Persicum; Erica hyemalis ; E. Willmoreana ; Daphne ru- bra; Geraniums Gauntlet and Crimson King ; mignonette ; Russian violets. Gabden Flowers. — Christmas Rose, Helleborus niger ; common Primrose, Pri- mula vulgaris; Winter Aconite, Eranihis hyemalis; common Daisy, Bellis perennis ; common Hepatica, H. triloba; Alpine Wallflower, Cheiranthus alpina ; white Coltsfoot, Tnssilago alba; Fringed Star of Bethlehem, Ornithogalum fimbriatum. Weatheb. — When wind E. or N., expect frost; when wind shifts from E. to W. by way of N„ and barometer falling, snow and gales ; wind shifts W. to E. by way of S., fine weather. The Garden Guide during 1869 will chiefly comprise reminders of garden work, and of interesting subjects in the stove, greenhouse, and pleasure garden, which may be looked for during the revolution of the months. The Lists of Flowers in Bloom •will include only the most ornamental species and varieties. Mere curiosities will not be named at all ; and therefore every reader of these pages not in possession of the several subjects enumerated, may safely add them to the collections they already possess, according to their means and requirements. Of course it will not happen, even in the largest and best collections, that the subjects selected for the several months will invariably bloom in the order in which they are placed. Many of those, for instance, in this paper for January may not bloom till February or March, if the winter happens to be severe, or if the plants are merely kept alive, without any attempt at forcing. On the other hand, those who wish for early flowers, and can employ a forcing pit or stove to produce them, will do well to select from the subjects named as the best for a succession of flowers throughout the year. Iu the lists of stove flowers, a few of the most desirable orchids are included. These are distinguished with a mark, thus (*). Flower Garden. — Have turf, manure, and other rough materials, wheeled in during hard weather. Dress the borders with rotten dung two or three inches thick, but do not dig or disturb the soil, or many bulbs and herbaceous plants may be injured. This is a good time to make banks and rockeries, preparatory to planting them in spring. Save all handsome loppings of trees for rustic work ; large boughs of apple and oak are most valuable for such purposes. Planting had best be deferred; but if the weather is mild and dry, deciduous trees, roses, and hardy bulbs may be put in. But this is the worst month in the whole year for planting, as, if we have hard weather in February, some deaths may occur. Greenhouse. — Use fire-heat with caution, but do not allow frost in any of the houses. Hard-wooded plants never to be above 50' ; if any sudden bursts of sunshine, with a west wind, give plenty of air. Soft-wooded plants, such as primulas, cinerarias, etc., keep near the glass, but do not force them rapidly, or they will run up weak. Cinerarias for show shift to blooming pots, and tie out. Ericas to be cleared of dead leaves, and have a dry air ; those showing for bloom to have good places and be tied Bulbous Flowers. — Van Thol Tulips ; Snowdrops ; Crocuses ; Snowflake, Leitco- jum vernum; Short-leaved Squill. Scilla brevifolia; Siberian Squill, S. Siberica; Polyanthus Narciss; Slender-leaved Ha- branthus, H. gracilifolia ; Spanish Snow- flake, Acis tricophyllus ; Amaryllis Aulica ; crocea ; vittata; Johnsoni ; psittacimim. Stove Flowers.— Gardenia jlorida; Oesnera cinnabarina and fubijlura ; Ar- clisia cremilata, in fruit; Euphorbia Jac- quiniflora ; Poinsettia pulcherrima; Salvia splender.S; Limatodes roseum ;* Sarkeria elegans ;* Calanthe vestita rubra oculata ;* Dendrobinm album;* Cattleya Warsce- wiczii delicata* "The Lord reigneth; let the earth rejoice; let the multitude of isles be glad thereof. Clouds and darkness are round about Him: righteousness and judgment are the habitation of his throne." — Ps. xcvii. 1, 2. 30 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. out. Pelargoniums for show to have their last potting ; keep near the glass, and look out for green-fly. Fuchsias required early to be fresh potted into small pots, and have a moist heat of 60° by day and 503 by night. Scarlet geraniums to have little or no water, unless in a warm house, and showing bloom, and then they will not require much. Verbenas and petunias should be on a top shelf, and be kept tolerably dry. Calceolarias will endure damp, and require to be only just kept safe from frost. Pot the herbaceous kinds in large pots, syringe on bright mornings, and place them on the same bed with the first batch of fuchsias. If any appearance of mildew, dust with flowers of sulphur immediately ; if any fly, fumigate. Stove to be kept as cool as possible for general collections. Put all the growing plants at the warmest end, such as Euphorbias, Poinsettias, Justicias, Amaryllis, Gloxinias, Gesneras, Achimenes, etc. Repot Clerodendrons, and place on moderate bottom-heat. Aphelandras, Poinsettias, etc., that have been some time in bloom, cut down as soon as they can be spared, and keep rather dry ; as soon as they com- mence growing, repot them, and they will bloom early next season. Be very careful in giving water ; plants at rest to have little or none. Make ready for repotting orchids ; sprinkle the floor of orchid-house pretty frequently, but water the roots only of such as have begun to grow. Kitchen Garden. — Dig deeply all vacant plots, and leave rough for frost to penetrate. Char clippings and prunings and other woody rubbish, and spread the charrings on sea-kale or asparagus beds, or save them under cover to dress the soil for Artichokes or Onions. Cart in manure, and finally dress all the plots that are to be cropped early. Sow Sutton's Ringleader, Sangster's No. 1, and Advancer Peas ; Mazagon, Longpod, and Windsor Beans ; Parsnips; and, on warm borders, to be pro- tected by mats or litter, Radishes, Onions, and Horn Carrots. Pits and Frames. — Sow on a well-made hot-bed Egg-plants, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranths, Melons, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Kidney Beans, Thunbergias, Phlox Drummondii, Mignonette, and Stocks. Pot up a few roots of musk and mint, and put in the same bed with the seeds. The first will be useful for the drawing- room, and the second for the kitchen. Put in cuttings of Verbenas, Heliotropes, Lobelias, Salvias, Geraniums, Petunias, and Fuchsias. Sow in cold frame Cauli- flower, Broccoli, Shilling's Queen and Early York Cabbage, Hammersmith, Neapo- litan, and Cos Lettuce, and a few hardy annuals. Forcing. — Figs will bear more heat than any other forced fruit, but too much beat or too much water will cause the fruit to fall. Peaches in bloom to be kept ■well watered at the roots, but in a dry atmosphere. Vines to be started at 50' to 60% never higher, and the syringe to be used freely amongst them. Pines in fruit, 80° by day, 653 by night ; shift succession pines at the end of the month. Straw- berries to be kept near the glass, and the pots to stand on warm dung, and the plants to be allowed to root through into it. Mushrooms must have a temperature of 55° to 65", and the beds to be syringed frequently with tepid writer ; thrust the hand down to ascertain if the bed is moderately damp. Asparagus and Sea-kale to be put in for succession, and to have plenty of water. Spring Flowers. — Q. S. — The subjects suitable for your border are the fol- lowing, which will all be done blooming, or nearly so, before bedding-out time : — Alyssum saxatile, yellow ; Arabis albida, white ; Aubrietia deltoidea grundiflora ; double Daisies, various ; Polyanthus in variety ; Erinus alpinus, purple ; Erythro- nium dens-canis, various ; Fritillaria imperialis, red and yellow ; Hepatica angu- losa, blue ; Hepatica triloba, various ; Iberis saxatile ; I. corifolia ; I. Garrexiana, all white ; Iris pumila coorulea, blue ; Ornithogalum Arabicum, white ; Phlox alpinus canadensis, lilac; Phlox subulata, blush; Phlox vermis, purple ; Primula acaulis and varieties ; Saxifraga oppositifolia, rose ; Scilla Siberica, blue. Many more might be added, such as Corydalis, Epimedium, Adonis, Dondia, etc., but we presume you are more anxious for a selection than a collection. If you have any idea, however, of forming a collection, you cannot do better than procure from Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son, St. John's Wood, their catalogue of herbaceous and alpine plants. 31 TO CORRESPONDENTS. Clearing Acacias of Scale. — An Old Subscriber, Woking. — The branch of Acacia arm at a enclosed is literally smothered with the small white scale, Coccus BromelicB, one of the worst pests we have to deal with. You did quite right to cut it down ; for it is an impossibility to get entirely clear from them without cutting down, and not always possible even then. Undoubtedly the plant was badly infested with the scale long before it went out of doors, brought on probably by being kept in a dry and warm atmosphere. At all events, a dry, hot atmosphere is the most favourable for their generation and development. We should advise you to thoroughly wash the old stool with soft-soap and warm water, and then keep the young growth frequently syringed with clear water. Moisture and cold are the two greatest enemies this insect has. " Fowler's Insecticide," prepared according to the directions, and the plants either dipped or syringed with it, is the best insect destroyer you can have. If you find the scale getting ahead again in spite of your efforts, throw the plant away. Out of consideration to the well-being of the other inmates of your house, that is the safest and wisest plan to adopt with all plants in the condition of the enclosed leaf. This scale is very partial to azaleas and camellias ; therefore you must keep a sharp look-out to prevent it getting on them. It will not make much progi-ess out of doors, unless in hot summer, and where the plants are allowed to suffer for the want of water at the roots. Lomatia heteropkylla. — A Reader. — As your plant is so infested with scale, you did quite right in removing it from amongst the others. It will not do any good out of doors. Peach and Nectarine Trees in Orchard-House. — F. W. S., Surrey. — The trees growing in your orchard-house ought to be pruned at once, for the flower- buds will soon begin to swell, and there will then be a danger of knocking them off. In the first place, prune the trees, and in doing that leave plenty of young wood in the centre of the trees, so that the entire surface is well filled with bearing wood throughout. The bush trees must be pruned, so that the middle of the tree is suffi- ciently open to admit plenty of light and air to the fruit. After the pruning is finished, wash the trees thoroughly with a rather soft brush, warm water, and soft- soap, and then dress them with a mixture of Gishurst compound, at the rate of eight ounces to the gallon of water. This process is necessary to destroy the eggs and larva? of the various enemies which prey upon the foliage during the season of growth. It requires a certain amount of care in washing the young wood, to do it effectually, and without rubbing off or damaging the flower-buds. Those trained to trellis should be tied out directly the washing is finished off, and then there will be nothing to do, as the trees come into flower. See that the borders do not get dust dry at this stage, or directly the sap begins to move the buds will fall like showers of rain. Though you do not force your trees, a syringing overhead now and then will be of great service in assisting the expansion of the flower-buds. Management op Greenhouse. — A Lady Amateur. — The temperature of this structure for the next two months should average 45'. For the next two months all soft-wooded plants should be kept in the warmest end, and fully exposed to the light. Hard-wooded plants, like heaths and azaleas, should have the airiest position ; for it ■ ruins them to be coddled up in a confined atmosphere. Water only when the plants really require it, and then give sufficient to wet the ball quite through, and let them get dry again. At this season do all the watering before ten o'clock, to give the moisture time to dry up before evening. In very dull weather light a little fire in the morning, and open the ventilators, to dry up the dampness and sweeten the atmosphere at once. The yines trained over the roof ought to be pruned without delay, to prevent the wounds bleeding by and by. Ferns for Sunny Positions. — At the foot of page 330 of the Floral World for this year (1868) the writer on "Exotic Ferns" says that "scarcely a dozen ferns out of the whole family will stand the light and air necessary to the well-being of hard- wooded plants without suffering." Would you or the writer of the article kindly inform me what are the doz :u ferns spoken of ? Having a greenhouse with hipped stage, I can give north and south shade from the direct rajs of the sun, but cannot afford to build a separate house for ferns, though, no doubt, to grow them 32 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. properly it is necessary. I have Asplenium viviparum growing well, no doubt owing mainly to its having a good deal of substance in the fronds, enabling it to resist the dry atmosphere of a greenhouse. Could you kindly give me the names of a few likely to do well ? — J. G-. C, Leeds. [The writer of the article referred to simply meant that very few ferns would do well, and attain the same degree of luxuriance, in a house in which they were fully exposed to the sun and air, as they would where they receive a certain amount of shade. As you can give yours the advantage of shade, you can select from the list almost ad lib. The following are all good, and will stand light and air tolerably well: — Cyrtomium falcatum, Lastrea Standishi, L. marginalis, Polystichum setosum, Polypodium pulvinatum, Nephrolepsis tuberosa, and N, exaltata. Ferns and Mosses for a Rockert. — Being desirous of covering a rock- work of burrs, from which issues a fountain, I should be obliged if you could tell me the names, and where I could procure any ferns and mosses, which would do this speedily, and not be affected by the drip of water ; of course something evergreen would be preferable. — Blitz. [ The following selection of Ferns will do well planted in the position you describe, if there is sufficient soil between the burrs for them to grow. Though these plants enjoy a damp position, there must be sufficient drainage under- neath the soil, to prevent it getting sodden from the drip of the fountain, or they will not keep in good health long. We shall name those only that are obtainable at a cheap rate : Athyrium fllix-fcemina, A. f.f. corymbiferum, Asplenium angustifolium Blechnum spicant, Cystopteris montana, Lastrea cristata, L. cemula, L. thelypteris, Osmunda regalis, Polypodium dryopteris, P. alpestre flexile, Polystichum an- ffulare, P. lonchites, Scolopendrium vulgare. The undermentioned hardy herba- ceous plants will also do well planted between the fissures of the rockwork, if they have plenty of soil to grow in : Butomus umbellatus, Caltha palustris flore pleno, Caltha palustris, Menyanthes trifoliata, Yillarsia nymphcBoides, Juncus effusus spiralis, Lysimachis thyrsiflora, Sparganium ramosum. The following mosses will add to the general effect if placed on the most prominent points of the lock- work : Hypnum striatum, PL. undulatum, PL. ruscifolium, Bryum ligulatum, Tortula muralis, and Polystichum junyperiwum. You can get the ferns at almost any of the nurseries, and most of them are to be found wild over the greater part of England. The herbaceous plants you can get at either Ware's, Tottenham ; Hen- derson's, St. John's Wood, London ; or Backhouse's, York. Stark, of Edinburgh, is the only person who grows mosses for sale. You had therefore better apply to him, unless you can collect a few growing wild in your neighbourhood. We make it a rule never to recommend dealers, unless in an exceptional case like yours.] London Gardens. — Civis. — We quite agree with you that municipal authorities are usually indifferent about the appearance of open spaces, and lose many oppor- tunities of embellishing cities, and especially of giving effect to architectural masses, through refusing to plant trees on spots adapted for the purpose. In St. Paul's Churchyard, north side, there is an example of the worst imaginable taste in city- gardening : paltry paths winding about like worms in pain ; these paths edged with tiles, no two of which are in proper line, and an avenue of poplars planted so that if the trees live they will meet across the path and close it up in three years, but never- theless so planted that the trees are dying, and will not cumber the ground long. A very pretty example of city gardening may be seen in Bishopsgate-stivet, where a churchyard has been converted into a garden in a very tasteful manner. Another good example is in Watling-street, near the end of Friday-street, the work of Mr. James Crute, a city merchant, who occupies premises hard by. Five years ago, Mr. Hibberd showed in his planting of Islington Green how these open spaces in the smokiest localities might be treated at small expense, and the least possible risk of failure. But the municipal authorities, as you rightly observe, want waking up, and until they do wake up churchyards and "greens" in cities will be disgraceful through sheer neglect, or more disgraceful through attempts to embellish them by incompetent persons, or through the parsimony of the public bodies who hold the purse-strings. S P I R E /E PA THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. FEBRUARY, 1869. HERBACEOUS SPIKyEAS. "WITH FIGURE OF SPIK^A PALMATA. $HIS beautiful and interesting genus is divided into about an equal number of hardy sbrubs and herbaceous perennials, and it is to tbe last-mentioned tbat we are now desirous of calling attention. We suppose tbat most of our readers are acquainted with the beautiful Meadow- sweet, or QueeD of tbe Meadow (8. ulmaria), which is commonly met with in moist, shady positions, such for instance as by tbe sides of pools and streams. It is to the class of wbicb tbe meadow- sweet is a type that the beautiful species wbicb we now have tbo pleasure of figuring belongs. Notwithstanding tbe fact of S. nlmaria being very common, it is without doubt one of the best border plants we have, when grown under conditions similar to those which it enjoys iu its native haunts. None who have once seen can ever forget this plant, with its immense heads of white foamy flowers that fill the air for some distance around with a spicy hawthorn fragrance — " Each dry entangled copse empurpled glows With orchis blooms ; while in the moistened plain The meadow-sweet its luscious fragrance yields." One of the shrubby species, 8. Jii/jwicifolia, " Italian May," is a native of Italy, where it is abont as common as our hawthorn is in this country. And another species, S. ckanicedrifolia, is equally common in Siberia, where it is put to a variety of uses, such as making tea with the leaves, and tobacco pipes with the dried stems. In former times the Spiraeas were much used for forming garlands for the head of the bride at marriage festivals, a purpose for which their flexible stems eminently fitted them. We have merely glanced at one or two points connected with the history of this genus, just to show that it is not utterly destitute of historical associations, or incapable of being put to economical uses ; but it is not our inten- VOL. it. — NO. II. 3 34 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GLIDE. tion at this moment to enter at length into this part of the subject, for we cannot well afford the space it would require. The whole of the Spiraeas are perfectly hardy, and nourish vigorously in any good garden soil. To grow them well, the border in which they are planted should have a liberal dressing of rotten manure, and then be dug deeply or trenched. Trenching, however,, is not practicable unless it is intended to dig up the whole of the occupants of the herbaceous ground, and rearrange them. In plant- ing subjects like these we have found it a good plan to open out a hole two or three feet in diameter, and the same in depth, and then mix in a little fresh loam and decayed manure, and place the new plant in the centre, and tread the soil firmly to it. These plants all do best in a moderately moist position, therefore it is necessary, in ordinary soils, that some means are adopted to induce them to root deeply, and thereby be less subject to summer drought than would be the case were the roots near the surface. If possible, they should have a position assigned them where they will be par- tially screened from the sun's rays during the hottest part of the summer. 8. ulmaria and 8. Japonica, in particular, dwell in shady corners where few other plants will thrive at all, and are valuable on that account. Propagation is effected by taking up the old stools in the winter, dividing them into moderate-sized pieces, and then replanting them. To insure a strong vigorous growth and fine large heads of flowers, the old stools ought to be taken up every few years and divided, and then replanted with a little manure, and if convenient a fresh place should be found for them. In common writh many other choice herbaceous plants, they are ruined through being allowed to remain year after year in the same position without attention. There can be little doubt about the advantage of mulching the roots with a layer of coeoanut-fibre refuse, or |half rotten manure, but so few people will expend that trifle of labour over herbaceous plants that it seems like useless trouble to recommend its being done. S. Japonica is one of the best white-flowered hardy plants we have for forcing, and it, moreover, makes a splendid subject for the dinner table, when grown into tolerable shape. How this is to be done can be told in a very few words. In April, cut the old stools up into pieces, and plant them out, in a damp, shady place, in the open ground, in rows a foot apart, and six inches from plant to plant. After they are planted out, the only attention requisite up to October will be to keep them clear of weeds. If the summer bappens to be unusually dry, they must have plenty of water. In October they must be carefully lifted, and placed in a cool, damp corner, until the middle of November, and then potted. The reason for taking them up a month before they are potted, is to stop the growth, aud give them a season of rest before starting them. Between the time of taking them up and potting, it is well to sprinkle a little leaf-mould or cocoanut-fibre refuse over the roots. Use pots as small as the size of the crowns will allow. Generally speaking, what is known as 48's or 32's will be large enough. Pot firmly in any light, rich soil, and keep the crowns just above the surface. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 35 When the potting is finished, give them a good watering, and put them in a cold frame or pit. In December shift a few into a cool house, when they will begin to start into growth. About the end of January they will be ready for the stove or forcing-pit, with a temperature of 60° by night, and ten degrees higher by day. But between the cool house and the stove, the plants must pass through several intermediate temperatures, and at all times be kept near the glass, and have sufficient room for the foliage to develop in a natural manner. It is hardly necessary for us to say, that the amount of water to be applied to the roots must in a great measure depend upon the progress the plants are making ; and also, that after they once get into active growth, they must not be allowed to suffer from drought. The forcing must be conducted very slowly, and the plants kept near the glass, or the whole affair will be ruined, as the growth will be poor and spindly, and the flower-spikes small in size and few in number. If extra large specimens are required, they must have two years' growth instead of one, and then go into 24-size pots. The number of species at present in cultivation is by no means large, the best of which are the following : — 8. palmata, the finest of all, and one of the most beautiful hardy plants in cultivation. The flowers are a rich crimson-purple colour, and the leaves, which are a beautiful green in summer, assume in autumn splendid tints of brown and orange. Height four to five feet. 8. aruncus, a strong grower, with white flowers ; requires a moist, shady position to do it justice. Height four feet. 8. digitata, a fine rose-coloured species. Two feet. S. filipendula plena, white. Two feet. 8. Jdponica, white, the best for forcing and front rows in borders. Average height, twelve inches. 8. trifoliata, red and white. Two feet. 8. ulmaria,- and its variegated form, are both good, and have white flowers. Two feet. 8. venusta has fine spikes of rose-coloured flowers. This is the best of the older kinds, and certainly the scarcest. Many collectors of herbaceous plants have never seen it. Height three feet. 8. Kamschatica, another scarce but good species, with white flowers. Height two feet. Spirseas are well adapted to plant in masses, and where the soil is damp and deep, they would associate well with hardy lilies, del- phiniums, and milfoils, and form fine groups. They are not, however, adapted for association with such plants as geraniums and verbenas in the richly-coloured parterre, though S. filipendula makes a pretty edging, the leaves being like fern fronds, and the flowers more elegant than lace. S. H. 36 BEITISH MOSSES. BY a:n amateur cultivator. JHE study and culture of mosses is never likely to become so popular or attain the magnitude of that enjoyed by their near allies, the ferns ; and the most enthusiastic admirer of them is forced to admit that there are many reasons for such being the case. Though I take this view of the matter, I feel bound to say that the moeses do not by any means receive that amount of attention from horticulturists, and the lovers of natural history, which their intrinsic beauty and merits entitle them to. Though the mosses occupy rather a low position in the vegetable kingdom, they play a very important part in the economy of nature ; therefore, apart from their delicacy, singularity, and beauty, their economical value alone renders them worthy of a larger share of notice than has yet been accorded to them. We are indebted to the mosses, in a large measure, for the vast supplies of fuel which have so materially aided the development of the various resources which have made us so rich and powerful as a nation. The peat-bogs in England and Ireland are chiefly formed with the mosses ; and it is astonishing with what rapidity a hollow of from twenty to thirty feet is filled up with the successive layers of growth and decay which so unceasingly goes on, In the formation of bogs, the various species of Bryum and Hypnui., have a large share through the early stage of their existence, but as these decay, and the water flows more sluggishly, the strong-growing Sphagnum steps in, and drives out many of its congeners. Were we to cut through one of these bogs so as to have a sectional view, we should find the stems of the moss close under the surface to be in a state of gradual decay ; and by tracing these down we find this process going on, thus rendering the peaty substance more and more compact as wre descend, until at length, when a depth of some thirty or forty feet has been reached, we find a compact substance, highly charged with bitumen, which clearly evinces its close relationship with coal. Although, in the formation of peat-bogs, we have an indication of one of the most important uses of mosses in the economy of nature, we have others that are of equal value. It is to the mosses that we owe many a fruitful hill-side which, but for tbem, would be at this moment most probably an unsightly sterile rock. The mosses take possession, and then, by a series of layers of growth and decay, which go on in much the same manner as those of the bogs, a sufficient depth of decayed matter is obtained for the seeds of the various grasses and other small-growing plants, that may be wafted there by the wind, to take root. The successive changes of decay and renewal of these plants continue, until at length a sufficient depth of vegetable matter is accumulated for the support of higher forms of vegetation. Important as are the economical features of the subject, two of which I have briefly glanced at above, the beauty of the mosses is THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 37 sufficient to repay all the time spent and all the trouble incurred in their study. A grand and important poiut, that must not be lost sight of in this matter, is this : the mosses are at their best from November until February — a season when almost every other form of vegetable Afe out of doors is at rest, and has lost much of its beauty, and the interest we feel in it when in full growth. It is to be regretted that gardeners generally do not take more interest in mosses than they do at present, for, to tell the truth, the rockery is a dull, artificial-looking affair, until the materials with which it is constructed are clothed with the rich verdure of the mosses, which help to keep the roots of the ferns cool and moist during the dry, parching heat of summer, and reuder it attractive, with its tufts and masses of greenery, during the winter months, when the great bulk of the ferns have become little better than mere heaps of brown leaves. As I have already said, the mosses cannot be expected to rank equal in importance with the ferns, much less with the flowering and other plants that occupy the gar- dener's time and attention. Nevertheless, as they offer materials for scientific recreation, and as the study of mosses gives a new charm to a country ramble, and makes a ramble enjoyable and desi- rable even in the depth of winter, when there is little else to interest, those who give their attention to mosses will be amply rewarded, for the study is encumbered with as few difficulties as any depart- ment of botany. Those who purpose to study mosses should begin now. From this time until the end of February, by far the largest proportion of the species will be in perfection ; and when there are few other natural objects to give interest to a walk on some sunshiny day, such as we have had lately, when the winter is momentarily touched with the brightness of spring, an abundance of mosses will be found covered with their fruits, and exhibiting their various colours and forms in the greatest perfection. Doubtless, to the superficial observer, the woods, commons, and hedgerows are very unattractive at the present time ; but to the true lover of nature this is not the case, for he has as much enjoyment in his rambles now as he did during the spring and summer, when the whole earth glittered with beauty. It is true his enjoyment is of a more subdued kind ; his eye is not attracted by flowers of a thousand hues, in every lane and upon every bank ; the common is no longer a blaze of purple with the heaths, nor do the delightful odours of the violet and tra- veller's joy come wafted on the breeze, nor the songs of summer's sweet minstrels fill the air with music ; but, as he wanders along, he is occasionally charmed by hearing the trill of the thrush, or the wild but grateful notes of the robin, and under every hedge, and on the bank of every ditch, he finds that the crowd of plants which had during the summer almost choked each other by their luxuriant and rampant growth, have disappeared, and disclosed to view a beautiful carpet of moss, softer than velvet, and covered with thou- sands of small inverted cones, as though they were trumpeting out their joy that at length the time had come when they could luxu- riate unawed by the presence of their summer neighbours ; while 38 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. on the common, between the brown and no longer beautiful heaths, peeps up the bright green of the moss. Collecting mosses for study and preservation in the herbarium, is an interesting and delightful occupation, but particularly fasci- nating when the collector becomes a cultivator as well. To find them we must visit the wildest and grandest natural scenes — the mountain top, the rocky defile, the romantic waterfall, the dark and lonely bog, the purling stream, that " makes a silence in the hills," as well as the quiet peaceful hedgerow and ruinous wall. The great advantage of growing mosses over many other subjects, is the small space required for growing a good collection, and the compa- ratively small amount of skill required in their management. And for those who do not aim at a complete collection, and are satisfied with clumps of each species, a goodly variety may be had for the trouble of gathering from old damp walls and heagerow banks. I think that few subjects would repay the cultivator better than the mosses, or be more suitable for growing, where the only space for following horticultural or florieultural pursuits consists of a small back-yard, overshadowed with other houses. A really fine collection may be grown in a space ten feet square, and the shade from surrounding objects would be just what the mosses require, and render any expense for providiug shade unnecessary. To grow, or attempt to grow, a lot of soft-wooded stuff in back-yards where a glimpse of sunshine scarcely ever penetrates, invariably ends in vexatious disappointment, and sadly discourages the cultivator in his florieultural pursuits. A mossery of the size I have named would furnish a fund of amusement throughout the whole year, for those who are engaged in other pursuits, and in many instances would be sufficient to employ all the leisure time they have to spare in attending to them. It is this class of lovers of the beauties of nature, which are most directly connected with plant life, that I ask to seriously consider whether it would not be more profitable to embark in an under- taking of this kind, with a certainty of having their labours rewarded, than trying to grow plants which require an abundance of light and air, which in many instances is an utter impossibility for the culti- vator to give them, more especially in the neighbourhood of large towns. I am not sufficiently sanguine to expect that moss-growing will ever become popular amongst professional gardeners, for, generally speaking, the gardener has so much to employ his time and atten- tion, that to add to his work will necessitate the neglect of some- thing else. Whilst admitting this, I feel bound to say that there are hundreds of instances where a prettily constructed mossery would be a feature that could be introduced with profit and pleasure to all concerned. It is not only out of doors that the mosses may be grown, for a neatly constructed miniature rockery, covered with several species of Bryum, Polytrickum, Tortula, and several others of distinct character, and covered with a glass shade, would form a beautiful ornament for the drawing-room or front hall. These would be of great value for furnishing objects for the microscope, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 39 and at the same time act as an incentive to the study of this inte- resting department of the vegetable kingdom. The moss-garden formed by Mr. Summers, in the gardens of Mr. Mongredien, at Forest Hill, is about the best that has yet come under public notice, and under the skilful management of Mr. Summers, it at all times presented a beautiful appearance. The rockery upon which the mosses were grown, was constructed with burrs, arranged in terraces and supplied with water at the summit, so as to cause a trickling down from terrace to terrace, until at the base the various rivulets formed a pool. The mosses were planted on the ledges and amongst the burrs, those requiring a special soil having their wants provided for ; and thus some hundreds of species were brought under the eye at once, and exhibited in a manner approaching to that in which they are usually found when growing wild. Though the burrs answer very well for the erection of the rockery, real stone is preferable, or, if that is too expensive, the general shape may be formed with the hard vitrified burrs, and the pockets and ledges filled in with soft limestone, rotten brick, peat, sand, and other materials upon which the mosses commonly thrive. A shady position should be selected for the mossery, otherwise the sun dries them up quickly, and they lose that peculiarly bright green appearance which adds so much to their beauty. In collecting specimens for cultivation, they should be taken with a thin slice of whatever they may be growing upon adhering to the roots. They will grow freely, and spread in all directions. But when they are rudely torn fr m pieces of rock or other substance, the roots get injured, and the specimens suffer in consequence, frequently resulting in their death. In constructing the mossery, means should be adopted, if convenient, for affording a continuous supply of water from the top, to trickle down the sides, in the same way as that at Forest Hill. The con- stant trickling of the water will give the rockery a natural appear- ance, and at the same time be conducive to the health and freshness of the mosses growing upon it. All the mosses require a liberal sup- ply of moisture at all seasons, to keep them in full health. A better proof of the truth of this assertion is not wanted, than to point to the vigorous way in which they all grow naturally during the humid season of November and December. To keep them in first- rate condition, they should have a liberal sprinkling overhead three times a-day through the summer, and at other times twice will be sufficient, unless the weather is particularly dry and warm. There need be little fear of their receiving too much. In the winter, there will be sufficient atmospheric moisture, in addition to the rains, to keep tbem damp enough, unless it should happen to be unexceptionally dry. In that case, a sprinkle overhead will be of immense benefit to them. In planting the mossery, the arrange- ments of the species should be conducted so that each species gets a position that bears a close affinity to which it is found in a natural state. Those naturally growing on stone or brickwork should be secured to those substances, whilst those growing in damp pools and ordinary soil should have like positions allotted to them. By 40 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. taking notice of the conditions under which they are found, a good idea of the treatment they require may be formed by those who know little or nothing about the subject. The cultivator will find every bit of information picked up in this way of very great service to him, at some time or other. The undermentioned species are all particularly beautiful, and have the great merit of thriving uncommonly well upon an artifi- cially-constructed rockery: Bartramia fontana, B. jpomiformis, Bryum alpinum, B. capillar e, B. argeiiteum, Dicranum squarrsoum, Grimmia Doniana, G. leucophcea, G. pulvinata, Hookeria lucens, Hypnum denticulatum, H. cttpressiforme, H. purum, H. Bchreberi, H. splendens-,. Leslcea sericea, Macomitrium canescens, Weissia contraversa, the principal species of Tortula, and all the Polytrichums, and Mniums. The fructification of mosses is a very interesting subject, and the microscopist cannot well find more beautiful objects than their varieties afford. A close examination of the organs of repro- duction proves that the same principles prevail as in plants of higher structure, and, like them, the mosses have both male and female flowers, and from these last the seeds are developed. During winter and early spring, most of the mosses put forth slender hair- uke threads, which are surmounted with capsules, in which are contained the seeds. There is this striking difference between the fructification of mosses and true flowering plants ; that, whereas in the latter it is the german, or lowest part, that swells into a seed- vessel, in the moss it is the summit that becomes the receptacle for the seeds or spores. "When the seeds are ripe, the extinguisher-like cap is either lifted off entire, or split down its whole length, and the seeds are then scattered to the winds. When the seeds germi- nate, they produce a number of delicate confervoid threads, out of which, after a time, the true moss-like growth proceeds, and in its season acquires fruitfulness. Many of the patches of greenness on stone walls and gravel walks, which exhibit no distinctness of form to the eye, and appear rather like a green slime than true vegetation, are mosses in their first stage of development. If the nidus upon which they first appear proves suitable, their true character as mosses soon appears ; but if the nidus is unsuitable, they continue for some time in a confervoid form, and then dis- appear. There are some very distinctive features in the structure and fructification of mosses. The Bryums have strong roots ; the Hypnums have very small and delicate roots. Some mosses which grow on rocks and trees have merely a flattened disk for their attachment, the plants deriving nourishment from the atmosphere exclusively, while Bartramia arcuata produces such a profusion of roots, or what are supposed to be roots, that the leaves and stems are completely smothered with them. Many species emit roots at their points, as they creep along, and Hookeria lucens emits roots from every point of substance, even from the edges and surfaces of the leaves. Generally, mosses have true stems and leaves ; but in some instances the fruit-stalk rises directly from the root. How- ever, even in these cases, true leaves are produced, though there are THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 41 no steins. The leaves are always destitute of a foot- stalk, and are attached to the stem by their lower edges, and they never decay or fall oft", like the leaves of other plants, but are persistent, and only disappear by a process of decay when the whole plant is subjected to destructive influences. Much more might be said upon this subject ; but as these notes have attained a length which I little expected, I had, perhaps, better forbear, and conclude by recommending those who love natural history, and who are yet unacquainted with the mosses, to commence their study at once, lor I can assure them that, in doing so, they will find a large fund of enjoyment and instruction, such as they little expect. THE LADIES' GARDEN.— No. II. BY J. C. CLABKE, Head Gardener at Cothelston House. Taunton. HIS month offers a favourable opportunity to consider how the garden can be best arranged, to turn to the best account the various subjects used in it, in such a way as to afford the most pleasure to its owner. In the first place, I beg the reader to notice the posi- tions of the ornamental and flowering shrubs, and consider whether their present arrangement can be improved upon to make a better display, or to show their individual characters to greater advantage. In this month, of all others in the year, ornamental shrubs are seen to their best advantage, and appreciated according to their worth and the taste of the proprietor in displaying them : if, therefore, any improvements can be made, or addition to the number is desirable, now is the best time to fix upon the site of each, with a view to their removal next autumn. A nice selection of evergreen shrubs, when judiciously displayed, is quite a feature, especially in small gardens. What, for instance, can be more beautiful than a few well-selected and well-grown varieties of the variegated hollies ? Then we have the Aucuba Japonica, the Laurestinus, different varieties of Box, and the very beautiful Euonymus in several varieties ; and if more formal subjects are required, there are the Irish yews, the red Cedar, the Junipers, Arbor vitses, and Cupressus ; then there are the American plants, such as rhododendrons, azaleas, etc., and many other useful evergreen shrubs, which any ordinary nursery will furnish. It must ever be borne in mind that magnitude is not essential to beauty and interest in a garden, for a small garden may be made, at all seasons of the year, full of attractions ; and if such subjects as I have here named are judiciously displayed and properly cared for, they will furnish at this dull season of the year abun- dant entertainment, while they contribute to form a beautiful and cheerful scene. There is another class of plants which, as they are in favour with many of our fair readers, must not be overlooked. I allude to the 42 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. hardy ferns, for they are admirable subjects for a ladies' garden, and as I happen to know they afford pleasure to many, I hope this notice of them will be the means of their giving pleasure to still many more ; but the reader must not think that the cultivation of ferns will involve an expensive rockery, or that they are difficult to manage. As to rockeries in small gardens, I always think them out of place ; but that is no reason why the many elegant varieties of hardy British ferns should not have a place ; indeed, they are proper sub- jects for those for whom I write, because they will thrive and grow in positions where flowering plants would not. Thus, by adding the ferns to our stock of plants, we add another feature to the garden, and increase its delights. Now it becomes a question where are we to place them ? I can soon decide that question by sayiug they like a cool, shady spot ; and if there should be a spare corner on the north side of the house, or under the shade of trees, that will be admirable for them, but they will do well in any place where they are not exposed to strong sunshine or rough winds. They will thrive in any common garden soil if it is not a stiff clay ; but a turfy mellow loam suits them best if the soil has to be made for the pur- pose. Many people fail in growing ferns out-of-doors through affording them an insufficiency of soil and water. They get together a few stones or burrs, and give to each plant a handful or two of peat, and then expect them to thrive. Ferns will bear much, and continue to live ; but they never grow satisfactorily under such treatment, because they have neither soil nor moisture sufficient. As ferns always show their characters best when the ground is slightly raised above the level of the garden, the elevation should be made, first, by a body of earth, not more than three feet high at back, or at the highest point. It should present an uneven surface, and in outline be rather irregular ; but not cut up into zig-zag pieces, or fancy shapes. Small evergreen shrubs will sometimes be useful in forming a background. I refer more particularly to the ferns this month, because it is a capital time to get such work done before the more busy season comes on. It is a very good time, too, to select the ferns ; for as many of these can be got from the woods and way- sides, those selected this month will be evergreen species, which are the most valuable. If removed in mild, open weather, they may be planted without delay. As every locality has its varieties of ferns peculiar to it, a list would not be of much assistance to the reader; the better plan, therefore, is to secure as many varieties as possible from your own district, and then, as opportunities offer, add to their number, as the greater the variety the more interest wilL they afford. I have said that I object to rockwork in small gardens ; my reason is, that the surroundings are in no way in character with them, they are, therefore, out of place ; but if ferns are grown in such positions as I have alluded to, there is no objection to the use of stones or burrs, as they rather add to the beauty of the ferns by contrast of colour ; but I am no advocate for elaborate and costly designs in these matters, unless there is full scope for the designer to work THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 43 upon, so as to create an object worthy and in keeping with the position it occupies. Amongst our hardy British ferns, there are many that occupy the first rank in the order of beauty, while in others the formation and characters are peculiar and pleasing, so that any one possessing a collection of them will, at all seasons, find something in them to cherish and admire. For a trifling outlay, many an unsightly spot or corner, where flowering plants would not thrive, might be made beautiful with ferns. SELECT EEENS. (Continued from page 243, Vol. VIII.) DIANTUM Eaeletense (51). — This superb maidenhair ranks amongst the noblest introductions of modern times ; it is at once the rarest and the richest of all the Adiantums, and must for many years to come be valuable, for it can only be increased by division, and the few who possess plants rather prefer to keep them intact as £S^M^ ADIANTOI FARLEYEXSE. specimens than to tear them up for multiplication. So many beau- tiful plants claim our attention as " novelties," that we cannot take interest in all alike, and only a few amongst them all ever acquire anything like historical fame. This distinction, however, has fallen 44 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. to Adiantum Farleyense, and it is not at all surprising that every- one who has had a share in introducing it to the notice of English cultivators should be jealous of any diminution of the credit due to them. The name reminds us of Farley Hill, in the island of Barbadoes the residence of T. Gr. Briggs, Esq., where it was first found. It is a question of some interest, what is Adiantum Farleyense ? The pro- babilities are all in favour of its being a form of A. tenerum, and it is generally accepted as such — and a very remarkable form it is truly. There is another question — Does it ever produce spores ? Mr. Robert Veitch raised a batch of seedlings from supposed spores, and the result was not true Earleyense plants, but the quite new and beautiful fern, named Adiantum scutum (Hibberd), syn. A. Gliies- Ireghtii. It is alleged by cultivators who possess large specimens of Farleyense, that it never produces a fertile pinnule, yet, if it does not, whence came A. scutum, which is as much like a form of tenerum as Farleyense itself? Our own opinion is that it does pro- duce true spores occasionally, and that as it is itself in all proba- bility a hybrid, so its offspring will deviate from itself, and, while retaining a certain trace of the tenerum type, will probably give us new editions and variations of the three forms by which the type is represented, namely, tenerum, Farleyense, and scutum. To grow this grand fern stove heat is essential. It will live in a warm greenhouse, and is a good fern for a case, kept in a warm room. But to bring out its magnificent properties a damp, shady part of the stove is required. Like others of its family, it is never benefited by being wetted overhead, and it loves a still air and a steady temperature. 52. Adiantum concinnum excisum multifidum. — This is a true sport from concinnum, and one of the most elegant of all the Adiantums. Its principal characteristic is its duplicated pinnules, which are freely notched on the margin, and so abundantly produced, that they overlap, and present a rich tasselled appearance. We met with it at Mr. B. S. "Williams's Nursery, Holloway, where it originated as a " chance seedling." Charming for warm greenhouse or stove, but no use for the cool fernery. 53. Lastrea patens. — This lovely fern has endured five winters without aid of artificial heat, in Mrs. Hibberd's cool fernery, and we now consider it one of the most select of the select varieties. It is classed under JNephrodium in Hooker's " Synopsis Filicum," in which work the generic name, " Lastrea," is entirely suppressed. The alliances are N. pilosulum and N. albicaule, and Asplenium Brack- enridgii comes very near it. The cultivator will rejoice over this fern because of its ample spreading herbaceous soft-textured emerald-green fronds, of a rich leafy character, and its comparative hardiness, as it will bear a few degrees of frost with impunity. Nephrodium molle is frequently grown under this name. It is trutht Lilly figured in " Lowe's Ferns," (vol. vii., plate 3,) as Aspidium patens, but as is common enough, the truthful picture falls far short of the beauty of the plant. 54. Polysticlmm setosum, syn. Nephrodium setosum. — There are more things in heaven and earth than are dreamt of in our philo- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 45 sophy, so I make no quarrel with Mr. Baker for placing this under !Nephrodium in Hooker's " Synopsis." (By the way, every lover of ferns should buy Hooker's " Synopsis Filicuni," published by Hard- wicke, Piccadilly, price I don't know — not under a guinea certainly.) It is a very polystichum-like fern, with large dark green glossy, elongated, deltoid fronds, the stipes of each is much beset with brown scales, the two lower pinnse divergent from and larger than the rest, and the pinnules rather halberd-shaped than " lan- ceolate," as they are described in Hooker's " Synopsis." A splendid fern, adapted for cool ferneries, always fresh, glossy, and gay, and taking no harm if subjected to a few degrees of frost. ADIANTL'M EXCISUM MULTIFIDUM. 55. Litohrochia incisa. — A splendid greenhouse fern, with long arching fronds ; the stipes reddish-purple ; the pinna?, which are distinctly and distantly divided, brilliant light green. This is very distinct and beautiful, but must have room to display its beauties, as the fronds average three feet in length. In Mrs. Hibberd's cool fernery it has borne the brunt of five winters without aid of arti- ficial heat. 56. Pteris sinensis. — This is a choice and desirable fern for the amateur who already possesses a collection, but is scarcely useful to the beginner or the "limited liability" cultivator. It is the Pteris crenata of Hooker's " Synopsis Filicum," and of " Lowe's Ferns," (vol. hi., plate 40.) It is a good companion to Pteris serrulata, and, like it, very much inclined to become a weed of the warm fernery. "Warm greenhouse temperature will keep it all winter. S. H. 46 RENOVATION OF OLD OEANGE TEEES. BY J. EANSLEY TANTON, E.E.H.S., EPSOM NUESEBIES. ^IMES have sadly changed in the estimation in which the orange is held by cultivators. The attention at one time bestowed upon this noble fruit appears to have given place to general neglect, so that it is but seldom we see old trees that have become identified with the family history presenting the healthy and fruitful appearance which they should, both in justice to the trees and to their owners. I could enumerate a long list of places, including those of many noble owners, where these fine fruits were once regarded with great interest and veneration, richly clothed with ample, luxuriant, and healthy foliage, supporting a vigorous crop of golden fruit ; but now we find, instead, tall, gaunt, bony, leafless trees, presenting the appear- ance of that devastating disease, consumption, which appears indi- genous to the vegetable as well as the animal kingdom. But even now these rare old specimens can be rendered healthy, and restored to their prestige of beauty. When trees begin to lose their foliage or lungs, it is a certain sign that the constitution is impaired and affected ; the seat of disease may in the majority of cases be traced to the roots, which have either ceased to act their allotted part, or become incapable of parting with the water imbibed, and thus powerless of fixing the carbon among the tissue. Tbis is the result of superfluous watering and imperfect drainage. The leaves eventually lose their power of union, and drop off; the respiration of the plant still goes on, especially under solar light and warmth, and this at the expense of the constitution ; thus the bark of the young wood is drained of its chemical components, and begins to shrivel. At this stage water should be entirely suspended, the plant kept cool and dry until the commencement of February, when the trees should be shaken out of their pots or tubs, and be headed back to the firm hard wood ; the roots that remain should be carefully washed clean in a tub of tepid water, and repotted in as small a pot as it is convenient to cram them, taking care to thoroughly drain the pot? and using peat, loam, and sand in about equal proportions, potting firmly, and plunging the pot up to the rim in a gentle bottom-heat of about (J0°, with the atmosphere close and cool. In the course of a few weeks, the incipient buds situated upon every part of the stem will break into growth, which should be encouraged by giving air before midday, and shutting up soon after, syringing the plant, and wetting every part of the bark with water raised to the temperature of 80°. As soon as the growths are completed, air should be ad- mitted copiously ; and as soon as the wood commences to ripen, the plants should be lifted from the plunging-bed, and stood in a light airy house, during the remainder of the autumn and winter. Upon the return of February, prepare some good compost, consisting of peat, loam, rotten horse-dung, bones crushed fine, and silver-sand ; well incorporate these together, and give the plant a liberal shift into THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 47 a well-drained pot or tub, and place again into a gentle bottom-heat. The buds upon the young growths made the current year will pro- bably flower, upon completion of which another growth will be made. During this process water carefully, and at times mix a little sheep or cow-dung with the water. Give the plant every facility of ripening its wood ; it will then assume such a vigorous, healthy aspect that it may again annually take its place either in the orangery or conservatory ; and if due care is exercised, a more thickly set, handsome, and healthy state will be assumed — the fruit finer and of better flavour. Much depends upon keeping the leaves clean and perfectly healthy. ON RAISING NEW VARIETIES OE ZONAL GERANIUMS EROM SEED. Chapter I. jjY experience with these plants, both as a collector and a breeder, extends over a period of nearly twenty years. Since I have distributed my seedlings under my own name, instead of, as is too much the custom, under the name of a trade speculator, the public have had fair opportunities of judging whether my theories and practices agree, and whether either are of any practical value. I will not now attempt to summarize all that I have written on the principles which should guide the breeder in his endeavours to improve these plants — though I would again insist on the necessity of systematic procedure with a view always to improvement — but endeavour very briefly to place the beginner in this amusing enterprise on a level with myself, so far as that is possible by means of written directions. Eirst, as to growing geraniums from seed. It is a very pretty business, and here (the plunging system being dominant) essential to the completeness of our summer display. Procure good seed. Sow in January, Eebruary, or early in March, in shallow pans, filled with light sandy loam, in a rough state. Our seed-pans are filled with lumpy stuff, the lumps varying from the size of hazel-nuts to grocers' currants. We would almost as soon put the seed in the fire as sow it in stuff sifted to the fineness of dust. But mind, lumpy clay won't do— there is reason in sowing geranium seed, as well as in roasting eggs. When sown, water once and place the pans on a flue or bed over a tank, or in the stove — anywhere quite warm and close — and give no more water until the seedlings are coming up freely, and there is danger of loss if they become too dry. The little things will stand drought better than damp. Aim at the happy medium. As soon as large enough to take hold of, pot them into thumbs, separately, and place them in the sunniest house you have. Shift again into 60-size, and in that size let them remain until they flower, 48 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. always keeping them under glass, and with little air, and in the fullest sunshine. By this course of treatment, the greater part wiL flower in July, August, and September. We expect them to begin flowering at 100 days from the date of sowing, if we sow in February and start tbem in a good heat. As they come into flower, be cou- rageous enough to destroy instantly all that are of merely average merit, and keep only such as promise well in form, colour, habit, or some distinctive property. Perhaps you cannot put the seed-pans in a good heat. Never mind. Tou can do nearly as well, but you cannot make sure of flowering many the first season. Do not sow the seed until the middle of March, then place the pans on a warm top shelf, or in a frame facing the sun, or anywhere else that may be convenient, but it must be a warm place, and easy to get at, because you must take eare the soil in the pans is never wet, and never dust dry. Grow the plants on in the hottest place you have, and do not give one of them a larger pot than a 60 (3^-ineh), for the quality of the flower can always be approximately determined in that size, and a larger pot defers needlessly the first appearance of the flowers. Push as many into bloom before winter as possible, that you may destroy the bad ones and keep the good ones ; otherwise, if none flower, you must keep all — a very serious matter. With all our experience, and, we must add, convenience also, we never did flower the whole of a large batch in one season, but we have come so near it as to flower seven-tenths, when the seed was sown in January. Now, as only about one plant amongst every hundred seedlings is worth keepiug, even for further trial, it is obviously of great import- ance to obtain some idea of what we have got before winter comes, for of course we must not destroy one until we have seen its flowers. Now about breeding. Like produces like, here as elsewhere throughout the world of organic existence. You may obtain new and beautiful varieties by merely saving seed of the best, but your chances are increased by the practice of artificial fertilization. The first step towards success is to sweep out of the garden — not by giving them to a neighbour, but by sheer destruction — all the inferior varie- ties, of whatever class. Here, you see, it is requisite to be some- what of a judge as to what is good and what is bad. Compare Eichard Headly with Tom Thumb, and you will instantly know as much about them as to their respective merits as if you had read half a dozen books. But you cannot perhaps compare them now, so, with your kind permission, we will postpone the comparison and the whole of the subject until next month, and then take it up at the point at which we now drop it, because we have said as much as can be required by the amateur to furnish practice for the present season. S. H. 49 PILBEET CULTIVATION. BY BICHAED WEBB, CALCOT GEBDENS, BEADING. T appears to me that the cultivation of cob nuts and filberts is considered too insignificant to be much noticed in the various horticultural periodicals of the present day. Why is this ? They are the most simple things to grow, the most remunerative of all fruits, and the most wholesome and nourishing. The nut tree will grow almost on every soil, and will thrive in nineteen out of every twenty gardens in the land, some exceptions being made for climate. I have for some years been a large trade grower of them, and have at the present time from twenty to thirty distinct varieties, but they are not all worth growing, the most paying sorts being those enumerated below. Coh filberts I have proved to be the best for a good return. I have some trees cut short, and others grow much higher, and they bear the most abundantly. I have a fancy every year to weigh the produce of several single trees, and this year (which, I think, is not an average year) I have gathered 18 lbs. from one tree, and manv yield from 9 lbs. to 14 lbs. A few years ago, I had the enormous weight of 110 lbs. from one tree, namely, the Emperor Cob, a seed- ling of my own, the tree being now upwards of forty years old. This tree grows in a loamy sand, and is very luxuriant, covering at the present time a space of forty feet across. This tree has never had the least manure whatever. It was grown from a nut, and it has sometimes paid upwards of £5 in the crop, and has never been pruned, but has had one large limb taken oft' it. None of my trees have ever had the aid of manure. They all thrive and bear well — some on a very strong clay, some on a light sand, some on a wet bog, and one tree (quite a novelty) is growing upon the top of an old oven, which is constantly used. It came there from a nut some five or six years ago, and has borne nuts two years. I only mention this to prove what I before stated, that nuts will grow almost any- where. I generally take all the shoots and suckers from the bottom of the trees every year, or once in two years, as occasion may re- quire, besides taking out of the trees all extraneous or over vigorous shoots. If it be possible, I also pinch off the top bud of as many twigs as I can. This is almost impossible in large plantations, but it is favourable to increased fruitfulness. I have ceased to dig between the trees the last three years, and I find they bear quite as well. I think the same mode of cultivation will apply to all sorts of cobs and filberts, and although I grow ten acres of these varieties, they are all under apple, pear, plum, and other trees. I have no doubt they would be more fruitful in an open space, yet I think the greatest return is obtained by growing them in the way I do. Another part of my system is to take oft* every other row of trees when they get too high, to give them more space for air and light, and when they have grown again to a good head, I take away the next row. I find that where they have this opening, they bear more VOL. IV. — NO. II. 4 50 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. fruit than is required to compensate for the row removed. By thia system we keep the trees always young and vigorous. I am an ardent experimentalist, and am continually doing these things to see which plan succeeds best. I shall be very glad to show any one what I am doing in the way of nut-growing, and to impart what little knowledge I have about it. Of course, there are some sorts which pay better for growing than others, but I believe that nothing is at present cultivated that will produce a tithe of the return in money as the best sorts of nuts and filberts. The best are, in my opinion, the Old Cob, the Kentish Cob, the Bed Skin Filbert, the Improved Cosford Cob, and the Davienna Cob. There are many other seedlings and nuts very good, but not so prolific as those I have mentioned, save the Emperor Cob, which bore the 110 lbs. crop one season. There are many things that will grow under the nuts, such as polyanthuses, snowdrops, narcissus, and other bulbous and herbaceous plants. All these things are available for any one who wishes to make a profitable investment, without any trouble or expense (except the first outlay), on his own land. I am not afraid the country will soon be overrun with nut trees because I describe them as remarkably profitable, for the English are slow to change their course ; but I am quite satisfied that for many years to come the nut will be the most profitable crop for any soil on which it thrives. As we speak of nuts and filberts, I ought to add that the distinctions between them are, that the nut has a husk not so long, or not longer, than the shell, but the filbert has a husk which is longer than the shell. MAXIMS ON POTATO CULTURE. fUEING the past twelve years, every known variety of potato, and every known method of culture (in addi- tion to a few that may be for the present spoken of as unknown), have been made the subject of careful trial in the experimental garden at Stoke New ington. We are not now prepared to enter into full particulars of results attained by the costly and elaborate process followed ; indeed, we doubt the suitability of such dry details for these pages. But as the season in which potatoes are usually planted has once more returned, it will probably advantage many of our readers if we offer a few maxims on the cultivation of this root, which have a direct practical bearing. 1. Soil. — Nothing so good as a light sandy loam, lying high and dry, and sloping to the south. Nothing so bad as a wet clay, sloping north, or shaded by trees. Peat and bog soils are first- rate, especially for seed potatoes, provided they are well drained. Clay soils may be improved by large additions of road-scrapings, charred vegetable refuse, leaf-mould, and other manure. 2. Manure. — It is a mistake to suppose that manure injures potatoes ; the fact is, they want it, for they make great demands THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. upon the soil. "We have had immense crops of the finest roots on ground deeply dug and heavily manured at the time of planting. The first step to success is to manure heavily ; but it is better to manure in autumn than in spring — but better late than never. Anything commonly used for manure will serve the purpose. On bog-land bones are the best manure ; on loam and clay nothing so good as charrings of rubbish and rotten dung. On any kind of soil potash, sulphate of magnesia, and common salt may be used as a top-dressing with advantage. If we take eight tons of potatoes oil' an acre of land, we remove from the soil 90 lbs. of potash, 8 lbs. of soda, 5 lbs. of lime, 8 lbs. of magnesia, 34 lbs. of sulphuric acid, 20 lbs. of phosphoric acid, 10 lbs. of chlorine — 175 lbs. of mineral matter in all. 3. Rotation. — Potatoes should not follow potatoes, or any other root crop. Let them follow a green crop. The Cornish mode is to follow a two-course of broccoli and potatoes alternately ; and as the land is heavily manured for the broccoli, no manure is put on for the potatoes. In gardens a four-course should be followed ; as, for example, put potatoes on the plots 1, 2, 3, 4 in succession, which will bring potatoes on the same piece every fourth year : — 1 2 4 3 4. Sets. — Large sets are better than small ones, and all sets should, if possible, be sprouted in full daylight before they are planted. A good average weight for sets is 4 ozs. each. As we cannot always have the kind of sets we want, choice may be made of sets ranging in weight from 3 ozs. to 6 ozs. To overpass this range either way is a bad practice, except in the case of the earliest varieties ; and these will usually give good crops from sets of 1 oz. to 2 ozs. each.* It is a mistake to suppose that cut sets are ob- * Chats are best disposed of as pigs'-food. Where this cannot be done, it is good economy to cook ibem quickly in their skins, in the same way as Dew potatoes. When done, remove the skins, shake them about in butter, and serve very quickly , and as hot as possible. 52 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. jectionable ; if whole potatoes of the proper size cannot be had, large potatoes may be cut for the purpose. In some cases, cut sets produce larger crops than whole sets, but there is not much difference. 5. Season foe Planting. — The earlier the sets are planted, the better. We have had immense crops from potatoes planted in autumn, and covered with seven inches depth of earth. It is, how- ever, seldom that we can obtain vacant ground in a fit state, and therefore spring planting is the general practice. The first of Feb- ruary is a better time than the first of March, and this last date better than the first of April. He who voluntarily defers planting until the last-named date is an April fool. Suppose they grow early, and the haulm is destroyed by frost in May ? It does them so little harm, and they recover so quickly, that it is better to risk that than keep them out of the ground any later than some time in February. 6. Mode oe Planting. — "When we have had to get land ready in haste, we have had deep trenches opened and nearly filled with half-rotten manure, over which a little soil was thrown, then the sets were laid, and covered with all the soil taken out, forming a ridge. In 1868 we were compelled to plant about a hundred sorts in this way, and the crop was immense and good. As a rule, trenching in the sets is better than dibbing, as the soil lays loose and warm and dry about them. Hard soil is always wetter and colder than soil lying light and spongy. Cover early sorts with two or three inches of soil, and from time to time draw to their stems the light crumbs from between the rows just enough to keep the roots covered. Large sorts and main crop cover with at least six inches of soil at once, and do not add another grain all the season. Cut sets should be cut side upwards ; never mind if people laugh at you. If you dig a fine crop, you can afford to be told you don't know which side of a potato should be uppermost. 7. Distances. — Early sorts to average nine inches apart, the smallest of them, especially if small sets, may be six inches. Late and large-growing sorts, one foot at least. Some sorts will spread out and cover a scpaare yard each plant. Tou must know your sorts therefore. The plan we follow with all large sorts is to put them twelve to fifteen inches apart in the rows, and the rows four feet apart. 8. Compound Potato Culture. — In this practice they are planted on the surface, and mould taken from the alleys to cover them, so that the haulm has to rise up through a ridge, and the whole crop is formed above the general level. In the alleys we sow or plant lettuces. "When the lettuces are taken off, the alleys are heavily manured, and celery planted in them. "When the potatoes are ripe, which is rather earlier than when grown in the ordinary way, they are taken out, and the ridge is shovelled down, or slightly lowered, to provide stuff for earthing the celery. The next business is to dig into the ridges a heavy dressing of manure, and plant broccoli to stand the winter. The next season the ground is levelled, and sown with peas, and other green crops. The plots THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 53 cultivated on this plan have been most productive, and in years when disease has prevailed, potatoes from ridges have been, gene- rally speaking, clean and good. 9. Potatoes ox Tiles. — There is no tile specially made for the purpose. Those we use are eighteen inches wide and four inches deep, and in shape like a shallow box, placed bottom upwards, thus : — A row of these tiles is placed so as to form a continuous tunnel, the potatoes are laid on the tiles, and covered with earth full seven inches deep, and sloping down to trenches, in which, as in the last practice, celery is grown. In a wet season, the tile system answers well, the crops being heavy and good. In 1868, a season of drought, our crop on the tiles was not so large as usual. 10. Sorts. — It is difficult to select out of about 300 sorts that have been carefully tested here. Instead of searching throiigh the records of the experimental, I will take a trade catalogue, and select a few that will probably suit a majority of cultivators everywhere. Early Garden Sorts. — Sutton's Racehorse, K. ; Smith's Early, R. Second Early and Late Garden Sorts. — Dalmahoy, R. ; Flour- ball, R. ; Baron's Perfection, K. ; Wheeier's Milky White, K. ; Paterson's Victoria, R. Second-rate productive Sorts for allotment and Field Culture. — Skerry Blue, "White Rock, Walker's Regent. S. H. CULTIVATION OF THE CLIANTHUS DAMPIERL BY GEOEGE GEAY, Gardener to W. Ilardman, Esq., Norbiton Hall, Eingston-on-Thames. i]S I have been very successful in flowering and seeding this beautiful plant, I feel constrained to offer a few suggestions upon its culture, as its management is as yet but imperfectly understood. There can be no doubt about its being more difficult to manage than a Coleus ; but, for all that, it is very simple in its habits, and I shall be able to tell the whole routine treatment in a very few words. Some two or three years back, my employer had some seeds sent him from abroad ; and, as I had hitherto seen little else but failures in grow- ing it, I was determined to pay a little extra attention, just to see what could be done ; and I was agreeably surprised to find that all required was what I shall term ordinary common-sense manage- 54 THE ELOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. merit — as will be seen by what follows. The seeds were sown in a mixture of sandy peat and loam, singly, in small pots, and treated just as you would any other seed. The pots were placed in a warmth of about 70° until they vegetated, and the young plants were nicely up. After that, they were removed to a temperature five degrees lower, by the aid of fire-heat ; but as the seed was sown about this time, the increasing warmth of the sun seldom let the thermometer fall below 70°. The greatest enemy of the Clianthus is red spider ; so, to be in a position to combat successfully with this pest, I determined to plant them out, for plants in pots some- times get starved for want of pot-room, and are also liable to get dry occasionally. Checks of this kind are favourable to the deve- lopment of red spider, but when the roots have a good bed of soil to run in, there is little fear of the plants being subjected to any check. We have a medium-sized span-roof house, used for rooting pine-suckers through the summer, and a variety of purposes in the winter. I made up a bed on one side of the house, about four feet long, and the whole width between the two walls, which then formed a square bed. We have a three-inch pipe in the bottom, but I do not attach much importance to that, as it is so low down that little or no warmth readies the soil. To form a drainage, we put two feet of broken brickbats, with a layer of pieces of turf over them to prevent the soil running down. Upon this was placed three feet of sandy loam, which was full of fibre, and had lain in a heap for twelve months previously. The soil was chopped up roughly, and the bed made firm, to prevent its sinking after the plants were turned out. The plants were planted a few days afterwards, with a good soaking of water to settle the soil about the roots, and a stout stick put to each, to prevent the stem getting broken before it reached the roof. Since the time of planting, the only attention that they have received has been keeping them properly watered, syringed, and trained over a trellis which I had fixed to the roof for that purpose. The soil must be kept nicely moist, and no more. Let there be no dribblings on the top, but at each watering give sufficient to soak the bed right through, and then give no more until the bed begins to get dry again. As the syringing will make the soil moist upon the top, it will be necessary to examine the bed some distance below the surface, to see that it is in proper condition throughout its entire depth. The temperature is maintained at about 70° by artificial means through the summer season, and between 55° and 6CP during the winter. In bright weather, from March until the end of August, the plants get a skiff overhead with the syringe twice a day, but in damp or cloudy weather, I have found once to be quite sufficient ; at all other seasons once now and then will be quite enough, but the actual times must be determined by the judgment of the cultivator. Heavy syringings are not required, but gentle sprinklings, sufficient to moisten tue foliage, without slopping the bed with a lot of water, are the best. The training must be done very carefully, for the shoots will not bear being twisted about, for, if they get injured, if it is THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 55 ever so slight, they invariably perish. The soil must not be used iu a fresh condition— six months is the shortest time that it should lay before using. I have tried a few plants in peat, but the roots get knotty, and they do very little good. When it is desired to get seed, I have adopted a very simple plan for setting the flowers. "When the pollen is in a proper condition for fertilizing the stigma, I merely turn the flower bottom upwards, and let it fall upon it, which accomplishes the desired object quite as well as the most elaborate manipulation. I have now said about all that is necessary to be known, beyond what is common to the other plants, and I cannot conclude better than by asking those who have not yet been so successful as they may desire, to dismiss all preconceived notions, and follow my instructions to the letter, or as near as circumstances will permit. I know there are people who object to the Cliauthus having more warmth than a heath, and who would fain persuade us that they will grow out of doors. Whether they will or not matters little, but that my system of treatment is not far wrong is evinced by the vigour of the plants I have here ; and, after all, nothing beats an ocular demonstration for convincing the sceptical. THE EOBIJST AND THE SPAREOW. AM very glad you can claim no relationship with me," said a venerable sparrow, as it nestled with all its feathers puffed out to their utmost ex- tent, on the south side of alow terrace wall, to a robin that was making | the most of a sunny October afternoon, searching among the withered leaves and the fiesh turned over soil for something to eat. "Ah," continued the sparrow, " how you smooth down your red waistcoat, and hop about the garden with the airs of one who fancies he has sole possession." " And," replied the robin, " I am very glad 1 am not a grey, dingy, sooty sparrow, living among chimneys, and chattering and quarrelling all the day long and half the night through." "And you would be noisy too, only you robins lead such lonely lives. Your natural tempers are so incompatible, so uusuited for social harmony, that you drive each other far away. You may shake yourself, and fly up and down fast as you like, but I have heard say more than once that two of you can never agree in one place, you fight to the death for mastery. I wonder you have not long since vanished from every English garden ; for, thougti you build nests, and rear little robins, you. push them out into the world long before they can do for themselves, and 1 daresay most of them perish seeking a field or orchard to settle in, where an older cousin or broiher has already taken up his habitation." •'You are mistaken, Mr. Sparrow. A robin is a thrifty fellow, and must work for his living, and his youngsters must do the same. They have the dignity of an ancient, honourable family to maintain, and may not pilfer at every house door, or, like your young sparrows, steal into any stable, or hen-house, or barn, where they can find something to eat without trouble to themselves. And your tribe, numerous as it is, would soon become extinct if it were not for the pirate life you lead around every dwelling." "Not so. Think of the hundreds, nay thousands, of caterpillars we pick to feed our young with in spring." " You only eat caterpillars when you can get nothing else. You bring up your young ones to the same idle life you lead. Why, I have found a good meal while you have been airing your old coat in the sunshine." 5G THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. " Yes, and narrowly escaped with your life. The gardener there might have killed you times without number. You are always at his heels, following his spade wherever it goes." " Yes, picking up grubs and such tit bits. He likes me for that. I only take what he can do without. You never heard tell of a gardener killing a robin red- breast, and in all your journeyings— oh ! I beg your pardon, Mr. Sparrow, you take only one journey in the year to the stubble fields — but you never saw a skeleton robin hung by one leg over peas or fresh sown seeds, a dreadful warning to all other birds. 1 have seen lots of sparrows in my time." And up flew the robin into a leafless old apple-tree, and chanted forth its autumn son". "I cannot tell how it is people make such a fuss about you," said the sparrow. " You are notbing to look at. Why, any town-bred sparrow has a brighter brown coat than you, and a much smarter figure ; and, as for work, it is all make believe. I do not think you pick up anything but sand just for your own pleasure. You put on a wise look and a fearless manner, and make yourself very busy if a few brown leaves fall before their time. Then gardeners say they must look after their tender plants, for winter is coming earlier than common, or you would not be about so soon. And nine times out of ten you are nothing but a false prophet, and ever an un- welcome one, for frost comes soon enough, however late it be." " Thank you ; but I could not keep my clothes bright, to say nothing of warm, living on sand during the winter. And as for fuss, why at this day most of us get as much as we are worth ; and you know you are not worth much in a garden if it is close to a house, for you are so afraid of missing bread crumbs and chicken's meat that you dare not fly about seeking ; so others eat up your natural food, and then you can be very well spared, for all your work takes the shape of undoing, or of mischief." "Oh!" sighed the sparrow, "I remember a time when so much a head was offered for us. What a life we had of it then to be sure ; but the evil turned round. They gladly doubled the amount to have us back again. I cannot think how it is we lose favour, every one throws stones at us poor sparrows. I begin to think it is our numbers ; there are too many of us." " That is just how it is," replied the robin. "You have such large families, so many children and grandchildren, and you keep them all near you so long as there is building space. It is no concern of yours if the spouts are blocked up, the water will go somewhere ; but then, you see, the people don't like it. And they are not pleased when you pull up whole beds of little green things, to eat the soft seeds. And when you turn out in a body to take your daily bath, think of the hills and hollows you leave on the finely raked over border. And when they go to gather peas, and find only empty pods, do you wonder they should throw stones ?" " Any more bad deeds ?" said the old sparrow, with a great fluster and flourish, flying up into the apple-tree, close to the robin. " Yes, in spring you destroy the crocuses before they bloom, you nibble down to the very base of the petals, and scatter the poor, torn fragments on the damp soil, and never a flower opens perfect. You used to be content with ravaging the yellow, now white and blue share the same fate. If there were not so many of you crowding in one house, you would not require so much medicine to keep you well; and the gardener would like you better if you left his saffron to grow for some other purpose." And the robin sang out gaily, in a louder, clearer tone than before. "I do not like your singing," grumbled the sparrow. "You seem so glad the summer is gone ; that white, culd sky foretels frost and winter in earnest. I do not know how we shall get through it." " I am not afraid of the winter," replied the robin. "I have friends in every house where little children grow, or gentle women rule, for soon as the snow covers up the hard ground with its white blanket, they think of, and feed, the dear little singing bird — the winter songster. So good-bye to you, Mr. Sparrow, wishing you more work, and better times." Claude. 57 NEW PLANTS. flYOPHORBE amaricaulis {Flore des Serves, t. 1704). — Palmae. An erect growing ornamental stove palm, having its petioles and rachises red. The column, which attains about sixty feet in height, is roundish, and the fronds are pinnate, with distant alternate much acuminate segments, bordered by a reddish line. Native of the Mascaren Islands. Rubus rosjEfolius {Flore des Serves, t. 1714). — Rosacea?. An interesting stove shrub, with spiny stems, pinnate leaves, and white flowers, succeeded by bril- liant scarlet fruit as lsrge as that of the raspberry. Native of the Mauritius. Rudgea macrophylla {Flore des Serves, t. 1720-1.) — Chinchonacea:. A noble stove shrub. It grows six to eight feet high, with very large leaves, a foot to a foot and a half long, and of a deep green. The flowers are pure white, larger than, but not unlike, those of the orange. The plant flowers freely in the young state. " The magnificent heads of flowers," observes M. Van Houtte, "very large, and of a snow-white, would dethrone in nuptial ceremonies the hlossoms of the orange if they only had its sweet aroma." Native of Brazil. Viburnum plicatum tomentosum {Neerl Plant., t. 51). — Caprifoliaceas. This deciduous shrub is the V. tomentosum of Thunberg, and of Siebold and Zuccarini, but is referred by Miquel to V. plicatum. It is very inferior to the plant cultivated underlie latter name. Poa trivialis fol. albo-vittatis {Flore des Sevres, t. 1695). — Graminacea?. A very elegant dwarf perennial grass, forming dense tufts of erect leaves, margined with pure white. A very useful decorative plant when grown in pots under glass. Antigonon leptopus {Gavd. Chvon., 1868, p. 654). — PolygonaceaB. A beau- tiful climbing plant, introduced from Nicaragua by Mr. Bull, with deep rose-coloured flowers, where it covers nearly every bush, and blooms so profusely that there is scarcely a leaf to be seen. Dendrobium lasioglossum {Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 682). — Orchidaceae. A charming Dendrobe, introduced from Burmah by Messrs. Veitch and Sons. The flowers are white, with purplish streaks on the lip. Dendrobium Devonianum, var. rhodoneurum {Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 682). — Orchidaceaj. A fine variety of this beautiful species, introduced from Moulmein by Messrs. Veitch and Sons. It has rather a slender habit, and the flowers are prettily veined with purplish violet. Odontoglossum nee-ulosum, var. Pattisonianum {Gavd. Chvon., 1868, p. 710). — Orchidaceas. A grand variety of 0. nebulosum, with large pure white flowers. Odontoglossum Cervantesii var. {Gavd. Chron., 1S68, p. 710). This is a white variety, with chocolate-brown streaks both on the sepals and petals, and brown dots on the litnb of the lip. Biglandularia coNSPicuA {Gavd. Chvon., 1868, p. 736). — Gesneraceae. This plant is the first representative of a new genus of Gesneraceaa, introduced from Brazil by Mr. Bull. It grows about a foot high, with ovate-oblong hirsute leaves and yellow flowers, the lower part of the inside of the tube being lined with rosy purple. DiPLADENii Amosxa. — Apocynacea?. — An hybrid, between D. splendens and D. amabilis. A grand stove shrub of a scandent habit, with foliage similar to D. cras- sinoda. The flowers are large, of a beautiful rose colour, and produced in the greatest abundance. A noble addition to the stove. Eucodonia n.&glioides lilacinella {Flore des Sevres, t. 1757-8). — Gesne- racese. A charming stove perennial, with hold cordate leaves, and an erect flower- stem, supporting numerous large flowers of a delicate lilac tint, marbled and mottled with deeper lilac, fine for decorative purposes. Hyophorbe Vekschaffeltii {Flove des Sevves, t. 1700). — Palmae. A distinct habited, highly ornamental stove palm. The smooth pinnate fronds are nearly erect, arching gracefully at the top; the back of the raehis is distinctly marked by a golden-coloured band. Native of the Mascaren Islands. Ibesixe Lindeni {Flove des Sevves, t. 1737). — Amaranthaceas. A richly- coloured dwarf, bushy-habited perennial, with moderate-sized leaves of a deep 58 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. blood-red, marked by a purplisb band down the midrib. Likely to become usefu. as a summer bedder. Native of Ecuador. Aphelandba aukantiaca, var. Eoezlii (Flore des Serves, t. 1741-2). — Acan- thacese. This showy stove shrub has broad leaves, singularly mottled with grey, and spikes of brilliant orange scarlet flowers. Native of Mexico. Livistona altissima (Flore des Serres, t. 1740).— Palmse. One of the elegant forms of palmate-leaved palms met with in gardens. The leaves are divided into numerous segments, and their stalks are decorated by short spines at the margin. It only requires greenhouse treatment. Native of the Sunda Islands. Oplismenus imbecillis fol. vaeiegatis (Flore des Serres, t. 1715). — Gra- minacea?. A pretty trailing hothouse grass, witr. variegated leaves, cultivated under the name of Panicum variegatum. It is well suited for growing in a suspended basket ; its leaves are banded with white and tinted with pink, giving it a very pretty and interesting appearance. Native of New Caledonia. Odontoglossum betusum, vab. latbo (Gard. Chron.., 18G8, p. 786). — Orchi- daceas. A very free-flowering Odontoglot, introduced by Messis. Backhouse from Ecuador, but of no particular merit, with bright red flowers. Thrixspermum umifervjm (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 786). — Valuable as a bota- nical curiosity only. Masdevallia Veitchiana (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 814). — Orchidaceas. A re- markably fine species, introduced by Messrs. Veitch and Sons from Peru, with fleshy foliage about six inches in length. The flowers are similar in shape to M. cocciuea, but the petals are white, with red sepals and violet lip. Delia Pilcheriana (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 815). — Orchidacese. A fine hybrid, raised by Mr. Dominy, Messrs. Veitch and Son's skilful foreman. The sepals and petals are of a beautiful purplish lake colour, and a deep purple lip with a whitish yellow disk. A grand addition to this beautiful genus. Epidendrtjm Gheisbreghtiaxum (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 815). — Orchidacese. A pretty species, with medium-sized flowers. Sepals and petals claret-coloured inside, with a greenish colour outside, and pure white lips. Cleisostoma Dawsonianum. (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 815).— Orchidacese. An interesting introduction from Moulmein. The habit resembles that of Eenauthera matutina, and the stellate sulphur-coloured flowers are handsomely barred with brown. Stanhopea Xytriofhora (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 842).— Orchidacese. A new species from Peru, with pale straw-coloured flowers. Brassia thyrsodes (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 842).— Orchidacese. A species in the waj' of B. Peruviana, with yellow flowers spotted with green. Spiranthus Smithii (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 842). — Orchidacese. An inte- resting terrestrial orchid from Costa Eica. There are at present two varieties, one with yellow, and the other brown flowers. Tropeolum sessilifolitjm. — A fine climbing, tuberous-rooted species from Chili, quite distinct from the other species. The flowers are dark red and yellow. A beautiful greenhouse plant. Adiantum rubellum (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 866).— Polypodacese. A beau- tiful fern, introduced from Bolivia by Messrs. Veitch and Sons. It grows in a dense mass about six inches high. The fronds are rather triangular, with glossy stipes and wedge-shaped pinnules. The young fronds are rosy red, hence its name. Dendrobium Jerdonianum (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 866).— Oichidaceas. An ornamental species with red flowers, rather poor in shape. Produced in a similar manner to those of Lcelia cinnabarina. Brassia glumacea (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 866).— Orchidacese. An inte- resting orchid, with greenish yellow flowers, the sepals and petals being spotted with brown, of little value to cultivators. Passiflora cincinnata (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 966). — Passifloracese. A fine greenhouse climber, with glossy foliage and purplish-coloured flowers. It was raised by Mr. Frost, Dropmore, from seed sent from South America. Dendrobium moniljforme (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 943). — This is the D. japo- nicum of Lindley. There are several varieties, but it is of no great value and not equal to the Dendrobium commonly known under that name. 59 THE GAKDEN GUIDE. Bar.— 29-94. Theb.— 44, 33, 38J. ]• Jttaaru, Rain. — 1*5 in. Wind— S.W., W.,and N.W. Gbeenhousb Flowers. — Acacia ar- mata and grandis ; Azalea ama'na; Cine- rarias, Genctyllis tulipifera. and Hookerii; Erica gracilis vernal is, Epacris deUcata; E. hyacinth' flora, auALady Panmure ; Cor- rea cardinalis ; Cyt.isxus Everestiana ; Tropceolum Jarratti; Chorozema varium nanum ; Camellias ; Tree violets. Garden Fiowers. — White Wall Cress, Arabis albida ; Candytuft, Iberis semper- Jlorens ; Coleki; n Barreiiwo t, Epimedium pinnatum elegans ; Forsythia viridissima ; Erica herbacea carnea ; Daphne meze- renin; Laurestinus ; Polygala chamwbuxui ; Cyclamen coum : Jlelleborus Olpmpicus. Weather. — An uncertain month ; frosts and storms frequent. Range of tem- perature large. When barometer falls slowly, look for rain, suovv, and fop, especially if wind N.W. With a high barometer, and wind easterly, sharp frost likely. Floweb Gaeden. — Very little can be done here beyond preparing the beds and borders for their summer occupants, if it has not been already done, and the beds are not filled with bulbs and spring flowers. The ground should be trenched or dug up deeply, and have a liberal dressing of manure. Shallow digging and want of food are the principal causes of such subjects as verbenas and calceolarias failing in dry, hot summers. Any alterations that may be on hand should be completed without delay, for the ordinary routine of garden work will be quite sufficient to occupy the hands and head for the next two months. New turf should be laid down as speedily as possible, to enable it to get rooted before the dry, hot weather is upon us. This is also a good time for turning and making gravel walks, and for renovating and making new box edgings, as it gives the onetime to get consolidated, and the other rooted, before summer. Draw a little soil over the points of any of the bulbs that may be making their appearance above ground, or, better still, cover the beds with a few inches of cocoa-nut refuse. Complete the planting of deciduous trees and shrubs, towards the end of the month, if the weather should be mild and open, unless the situation is low and wet — in that case, it must be deferred until the soil gets into favourable condition. Gkee.nhouse. — Some little attention must be paid to the management of this structure just now. In frosty weather use just sufficient fire to keep the frost out, as the employment of a large amount of fire-heat at that time is injurious to nearly all the greenhouse plants. It is wrong to suppose that it makes little difference how high the temperature is, so long as the frost is kept out. After two or three damp days, light a fire to warm the pipes, to enable the ventilators to be open, without the temperature being materially lowered, and at the same time set the air in motion, and drive out the stagnant atmosphere, which soon accumulates, without ventilation. A few fuchsias should be started in a genial warmth, to furnish cuttings for growing on for midsummer and autumn flowering. Autumn-struck plants of show and fancy pelargoniums should be potted in five or six-inch pots, without further delay, and they will then make fine plants for conservatory decoration. Camellias should be carefully watered, for, if allowed to get too wet or too dry, they will soon shed their buds. Sudden changes of temperature are equally as injurious, therefore any Bulbous Flowers. — Hyacinths ; Tu- lips ; Polyanthus Narciss ; Lily of the T alley; Crown Imperiaiis ; Lachenalia tricolor; Jonquils; Dog's Tooth Violet; Erythroniicm dens canis, wlute. rose, and red ; Amaryllis Ackermanii, Marginata, conxpicuu, pardinum, Cleopatra; Bulbo- codium vernum. Stove Flowers. — Anthurium Scher- zerianum, Begonia fuchsioides, and Saun- dersiana ; Dalechnmpia Roezliana rosea; Eucharis amazonica; Francisci-a calycina major; Monochtztum sericeum mullijlorum ; Cypripedinm rillosum;' Lycaste Skmneri;* Cwlogi/ne cristata ;* Dendrobium nobile ;* Onciaiumflexuosum." 1 " They that sow in tears shall reap in joy. He that goeth forth and weepeth, bearing precious seed, shall doubtless come again with rejoicing, bringing his sheaves with him." — Ps. exxvi. 5, 6. 60 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. required to flower early should go through two or three temperatures before they are finally landed in the forcing-house. Unless this can be done, they had better be allowed to come along in the greenhouse, for there will be but small chance of getting the flowers to open. Ferns must be kept rather dry, as they are now at rest, and unable to absorb a large amount of moisture. Tie and train all plants intended for exhibition, whether hard or soft-wooded, if they require it, for there will be little time for this kind of work next month. Look after green fly, thrip, and iuildew. Fumigate with tobacco or tobacco paper for the two former, and dust with sulphur for the latter. All hard-wooded plants require free ventilation, and soft- wooded kinds to be near the glass, with sufficient air, to prevent their drawing up weakly. This is a very good time to re-pot all the liliums, if it was not done in the autumn, which was the best time, as the pots would now be full of roots, and the bulbs able to start away stiong, instead of having to make roots. Stove. — All the orchids which have thick fleshy bulbs like the Cattleyas and Dendrobes, and which are also at rest, will require very little water now, not more than enough to keep the bulbs plump. Others in the way of the Aerides and Vandas, which have no bulbs to fall back upon, will requite rather more ; but the watering must be done carefully, as too much will do more harm than good. This remark applies with equal foice to those in growth. All should be kept as quiet as possible, as there is not sufficient light to properly elaborate the sap. Flowers of orchidaceous plants are susceptible to damp ; therefore, those plants in bloom must be placed in the driest part of the house, and if it can be done without injury to the plants, they will last fresh much longer if placed in a temperature a few degrees lower than that in which they are now growing. Hard-wooded plants, such as Ixoras, Rondeletias and Franciscas intended to be cut back should have attention at once. They will break stronger, and the young growth will be more thoroughly matured than would be possible were the pruning leit until they get into full growth. Plants of this class must not be " dried off" like bulbous plants, but they must have no more water than is sufficient to keep them in good health. This is a good time for starting Achimenes, Caladiums, and Gloxineas. Good fibry loam, peat, and leaf-mould, in equal quantities, with a sixth part of sharp silver-sand, will grow all these plants to perfection, if they receive good management in other respects. The Caladium pots should be covered with a layer of cocoa-nut refuse to keep the soil moist without its requiring to be watered. Shake out ornamental- leaved Begonias, and re-pot in the same compost as above. Allamandas should be pruned and re-potted some time this month. Do all the watering in the morning. In bright frosty weather sprinkle the floors with water early iu the day. This is a capital time for waging war against white and brown scale and mealy bug. If all the plants are gone over in a thorough manner at this season, there will not be half the trouble with them during the remaining part of the year as there otherwise would be. Kitchen Garden. — Continue to prepare the ground ready for the summer crops, so that there may be no delay in getting each crop n at its proper season. With this object in view, every plot of ground should be manured and dug directly it becomes vacant. It evinces a great want of neatness and order to see whole quarters covered with old stumps of broccoli and winter greens until the moment they are required for other crops, apart from the injury arising to succeeding crops through the non-pulverization of the soil. This is a good time to plant chives, garlic, horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, rhubarb, and shallots, and also to pro- pagate all the perennial herbs by division and offsets. Sow in sheltered positions Walcheren broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Early York and red cabbage, Early horn carrots, chervil, leeks, lettuce, parsley, long and turnip radishes, early Ulm savoys, spinach, turnips, and a good breadth of Veitch's Perfection Pea. Towards the end of the month a sowing should be made of Windsor beans to succeed the Mazagan sown last month. Plant out autumn sown cabbage and lettuce if the soil is in a nice friable condition. All the seed potatoes should be spread out to enable them to form hard purple sprouts by planting time. Fruit Garden. — The planting of all kinds of fruit-trees must be finished at once, for when left until vegetation commences, they suffer a considerable check, and make but little progress unless they receive attention in the way of being kept well watered. Finish off the pruning of all classes of fruit-trees, whether growing in the open borders or trained to walls. In nailing wall-trees use new shreds, and THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 61 have thern long enough to allow plenty of room for the roots to swell when growing. All the wall-trees will be benefited with a dressing of Gishurst compound, mixed at the rate of 4 oz. compound to the gallon of water. Pits and Frames. — The lights of the frames full of bedding plants should be drawn off during the middle of the day if the weather is open and dry, otherwise give an abundance of air by tilting the lights at the back. Make up a nice hotbed for propagating purposes, and raising seedlings. Bedding plants must now be pro- pagated largely, as soon as the cuttings can be had, so as to give the plants plenty of time to get strong and well hardened off before the time fur turning them out into the beds. Look well after green-fly and mildew, and adopt remedies for their pre- vention and cure. Forcing. — Sow for succession Sion House French beans. Keep those in bearing well supplied with weak manure water, and the syringe freely at work, to prevent the appearance of red spider and thrip. Strawberries in bloom to have a free cir- culation amongst them without being exposed to cold currents. Vines started last month should have a rise of about five degrees, and those sufficiently advanced should be disbudded directly the bundles can be discerned, and tied in when neces- sary. When allowed to grow tco long they frequently snap off in tying, besides getting in contact with the glass, and thereby suffering considerable injury. The temperature of all the houses should have a rise of five degrees above that advised last month. Unless the vines are in flower, maintain a thoroughly moist atmosphere. Figs as they progress in growth must have plenty of moisture at the roots, and he kept well syringed. The temperature should range from 60" to 703 through the day, with a fall of ten degrees at night. Peach and nectarine trees in bloom must have plenty of air to insure the bloom setting. Those started earlier will now re- quire disbudding. Begin with the foreright shoots first, and proceed gradually. Keep the trees regularly syringed, watch closely for mildew after easterly winds, and sulphur directly it makes its appearance. See that the inside borders are in a proper state as regards moisture. Cherries and plums must he started very slowly, and have an abundance of air when in bloom ; 4o5 to 50° will be plenty high enough to begin with. Pines in fruit may have a rise of five degrees from last month if the weather is mild and open, otherwise remain the same. Succession plants must not he excited into growth yet, or they will suffer irreparable injury. Water when necessary, but guard against its getting into the hearts of the plants. Get a stock of soil, tan, etc., ready for a general shift next month. Mushrooms the same as last month. Fresh batches of asparagus, seakale, and rhubarb must be put in for suc- cessions. The Destruction op Couch. — Ts it to this end that all our tillage processes are so laboriously conducted— for this purpose that harrows, cultivators, hoes, and ploughs are so constantly and so expensively at work? One might easily imagine it. Certainly there is no more constant companion or attendant on our manage- ment. These processes, professedly for its extirpation, do not extirpate it. On the contrary, they are annual, recurring as regularly as seedtime or as harvest, and one cannot, a priori, with any confidence declare that they are not intended, or at least that they do not contribute, to propagate and continue it. This, of course, however, is denied ; the land " breeds" the plant, perhaps that is the explanation ; and all the fallow operations, hoeing, couch picking, burning, are annual and con- tinual, simply because they are inevitable. It is half- work which breeds the plant. The annual scraping of the land with hoes will only create the need for its endless repetition. Even ploughing does but transplant the living weed, and increase the vigour of its growth. Repeated fallow operations of course reduce it, and a hot sun withers it ; but half work of this or any other kind will only reproduce it, and a year's rest in grass, or a few years' rest in sanifoin, will bring all the evidences of its vitality before us again as unmistakable as ever. — Gardeners' Chronicle. , G2 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. NEW BOOKS. The Orchid Grower's Manual, and Select Ferns and Lycopods. By B. S. Williams, Victoria Nursery, Dpper Holloway, London, N. — These two books are admirable models for all authors and editors who seek the favours of amateur gardeners. They are full enough of information for all the purposes of the culti- vator, without being any where or any how over-elaborated, or made tedious by speculations. Mr. "Williams knows as well as any man living which amongst thousands of orchids and ferns are best worth growing, and also how to grow them, and he is frank and explicit in his instructions, seeking at every step to assist the amateur from the store of his great personal knowledge. Any of our readers who wish to purchase either of these works, or who simply desire further information respecting them, are advised to communicate direct with the author. Old Jonathan, the District and Parish Helper. — The bound-up issues of the past year form an amusing book, which humble readers will delight in, and, perhaps, refined and fastidious readers may derive an hour's amusement from. " Old Jonathan" is cheerful, various, kindly, and, while seeking to amuse for the moment, is anxious also, and that wisely, to benefit his friends for ever. The Gardeners' Magazine comes to our hands monthly for review, an event at once amusing, and suggestive of the desirability of a new law in literature, which will allow of editors and authors to review their own works. But until such a law is passed we must not offer an opinion on the " Gardener's Magazine," but praise the publisher for his assiduity, aud thankfully record that his coals have arrived safely at Newcastle. Beautiful-leaved Plants. (Bell and Daldy, York Street, Covent Garden, London.) — Eleven numbers of this work have now been published. The last con- tains coloured figures of Acer negundo variegata, Acer polymorphum, Gesnera exoniensis, and Ansectocliilus setaceus. The Orchardist. By John Scott, Merriott Nurseries, Crewkerne, Somerset. — We are not, as a rule, favourable to books got up by nurserymen, because, as rule, they are more anxious to push their own particular trade than to afford usefu information in a disinterested manner. Take Mr. Rivers's books, for example. They are well enough in their way, though superficial and expensive. One always feels before completing their perusal, that, whether or not such an effect is intended, the effect is inevitably to promote the sale of Mr. Rivers's trees ; in fact, if we wanted a model of a literary advertiser of a trading concern, we should be inclined to go to him, though, perhaps, he never thought of such a thing as puffing his own business. Now, the reason why we think of this matter in connection with Mr. Scott's "Orchardist" is, because, although Mr. Scott is a trader in fruit trees, his book contains very few indications of the fact, and no indications at all of his desire to thrust upon the public at a paying price any panicular sorts of trees, as might be the case with a nurseryman with a glib fen and a sharp eye to business. For the small sum of eighteenpencc, Mr. Scott offers as good a book on practical fruit culture as any one can require for ordinary pu> poses. That it is not a mere tract upon the subject will be understood, when we say that it extends to 256 pages of close print, octavo, and comprises treatises on cultivation, as well as descriptions of varieties. We intend to recommend this book again and again, until it is super- seded by something better, which we do not expect to see in our time. Curiosities of the Pulpit. By the Rev. Prebendary Jackson, Rector of St. Mary, Stoke Newington. (James Hogg & Son.) — This elegant work comprises an in- troductory essay on the office of the preacher, and a series of sketches of great churchmen, illustrated by anecdotes, and extracts from their sermons. The abundant variety and judicious selection of the materials render it at once an entertaining and a profoundly instructive ,vork. Mr. Jackson has so cautiously avoided extreme points and peculiar dogmas, that readers of every sect and party may profit by a perusal of this work, without at any time feeling that their own articles of faith are assailed, or that any special doctrine is intended to be favoured. The book has a tendency certainly, and that is everywhere visible — it is towards keeping the unity of the spirit in the bond of peace. 03 TO COBEESPOKDENTS. A Heavy Pumpkin. — It may interest some of your readers to know that I cut in the autumn of 18(58 a large pumpkin which weighed 126 lbs., or nine stones, and a little over, it measured 71g inches in circumference. Had the season been more favourable in respect of rain, I have little doubt that it would have attained to a much heavier weight, at> it was far from being ripe when cut. — E. W. A. G. [It would be interesting to gather up a few facts about weights of English grown gourds, the heaviest we ourselves have any record of was 180 lbs.] Grafting Aucuba, Euonymus, and Ivy. — /. W. — All these, and other plants of like character, may be grafted in February and March, also in September, October, and November. February is the best time, when the plants can have the aid of glass and a gentle heat soon after the grafts are put on, hut they take pretty well if grafted in September, and at once shut up in frames, and so kept throughout the winter. Although we have collections of these and similar plants, and pro- pagate a considerable number, we have quite given up grafting, finding that plants on their own roots grow freely, and are most easily obtained by taking cuttings at the end of July, and keeping them rather close in pits and frames until the following May. Vermin on Verbenas. — E. W. D. — The grubs, you send, will not injure your plants, as they are not vegetable eaters. They have been brought in by means of the soil. We believe them to be the larvae of cocclnella 22-punctata, a rare and beautiful ladybird. Do not destroy them. Symphyandkia pendui.a. — I see this recommended in Mr. Williams's very useful paper on "Nooks and Corners." I have referred to quite a dozen books and catalogues, amongst others to E. G. Henderson and Sons' excellent cutalogue of hardy herbaceous plants, and have not found it. What is it ? and where is it ? — A Nook and Counfr Gardener. [It is a scarce plant, of the campanula family, native of Caucasus, where it grows amongst rocks. The stems are branched, pendulous, the leaves ovate, velvety, the flowers panicled, drooping, cream coloured. The only references we can give for it are Sweet's "Flower Garden," new series, . 66, and Don's " Dichlimydeous Plants," iii. 771.] Araucaria imbricata. — In reply to the inquiry of a subscriber in the Floral World, in reference to the greatest height attained by the araucaria in England, I can inform him that there are two magnificent specimens in the grounds of Lord Mansfield at Caen Wood, Hampstead, less than five miles from St Paul's. It is some years now since I saw them, but Cockburn, the gardener, used to say that with one exception, he believed they were the largest in England. Mr. G. Wyness, the present head gardener at Caen Wood, no doubt would give the present dimensions of these trees. Thy ks acanthus rutilans.— J. W. — This beautiful stove plant produces a number of thread-like flower stems which arch over and droop down in a whip-like manner, and soon become brilliantly clothed with crimson or scarlet tubular flowers. Its proper season of flowering is winter. The best way to grow it is to take cuttings in March, and after they are struck in a brisk hent, to grow them on generously in the stove. If large specimens are required, the old plants must be kept ; but, as a rule, it is best to raise a fresh stock every year. Dipteracanthus affinis may be treated in the same way. Various. — Delighted Reader.- — Your plant is probably Eichardia ^Ethiopica, otherwise Calla JEihinpica, otherwise Arum vEthiopicurn, better known everywhere as the " Trumpet Lily." At all events, there is no such thing in botany as a " Nairou." — R. S. W. J}.— You cannot do better than order the " Rose Book," the " Town Garden," and Moore's " Handbook of Ferns," all published by Messrs. Grocmbridge and Son. The work on " Beautiful-Leaved Plants," is in course of publication by Messrs. Bell andDaldv, inoneshuTmg monthly parts. — W. Selby. — We really do not know which of the British Ferns should be called the " Shuttlecock." Perhaps we are too energetic in our contempt for such names, because of the mistakes that arise through, us ng them — certainly we know several ferns, such as Lastrea filix mas, and Polystichum lonchitis, for example, that might be so designated. It is simply absurd for people to write to us complaining of the employment in these pages of the proper botanical names of plants, for no other names are to be trusted 64 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. if the identification of particular plants is a matter of any importance. — 5. S. S. — Plenty of time to purchase and plant roses. As you are a new subscriber you would do well to order the number for November, 18G8. — J. Simson. — The plunging system has been amply treated of in these pages ; it was in this work that it was first made known. There is no mystery at all about potatoe disease ; it has been explained, and every point cleared up long ago, and as much information given in this work as in any other. The whole subject may be summed up in a sentence — if cold, wet weather occurs when the tubers are ripeniug, thev become diseased ; if the weather is hot and dry at that time, they do not become diseased. Coal-Smoke. — Victor. — It is not true that every whiff of coal-smoke tends to poison a garden, because in the suburbs of towns most evergreen shrubs and some conifers acquire richer colours and a more robust growth than they do in the country. But if we remove those same shrubs that are evidently enjoying the moderate amount of smoke they get another half mile, or it may be another furlong nearer to the town, they may begin to decline, and perhaps never again show the appearance of robust health which in the first instance proved that smoke was good for them. It is utterly impossible to describe the exact degree of smoking any class of trees or shrubs will bear; the only approximation to a standard must be obtained by observation. Those who live near towns must be guided in their planting by the state of shrubs and trees in the locality, and in introducing kinds respecting which they have doubts a few only should be tried in the first instance. Thus, in a good bed of peat most Rhododendrons and hardy Azaleas do well on the very skirts of the City of London, but Kalmia latifolia will not grow and bloom as it ought anywhere within four miles of London. So again, any and every Andromeda will thrive in good peat near London, with the exception of A. floribunda, which is the first to perish in a district where houses are on the increase. From your description of the locality we should plant ad lib., but you must he the best judge of the probable length of time the plots around you will continue open. When builtupon you will he linked to the town by blocks of houses, and a few choice things will resent the attachment by vanishing from the scene. Whitewash. — H. B. — Whitewash is one of the most valuable articles in the world properly applied. It prevents not only the decay of wood, but conduces greatly to the healthiness of all buildings, whether of .wood or stone. Out-buildings and fences, when not painted, should be supplied once or twice every year with a good coat of whitewash, which should be prepared in the following way : — Take a clean, "water-tight barrel, or other suitable cask, and put into it half a bushel of lime. Slake it by pouring water over it boiling hot, and in sufficient quantity to cover it five inches deep, and stir it briskly till thoroughly slaked. When the slaking has been effected, dissolve it in water, and add two pounds of sulphate of zinc, and one pound of common salt. These will cause the wash to harden, and prevent its cracking, which gives an unseemly appearance to the work. If desirable, a beau- tiful cream colour may be communicated to the above wash by adding three pounds of yellow ochre ; or a good pearl or lead colour by the addition of lamp, vine, or ivory black. For fawn colour, add four pounds of umber, Turkish or American (the latter is the cheapest), one pound of Indian red, and one pound of common lamp- black. For a common stone colour, add four pounds of raw umber and two pounds of lampblack. This wash may he applied with a common whitewash brush, and will be found much superior both in appearance and durability to common whitewash. Pandantjs Propagation. — Young Gardener. — The Pandanads are increased by means of the suckers or side shoots. Strip them off without injuring the parent stem. Insert in small pots, and plunge them in a bottom heat if convenient. The suckers must have a hard base or they will soon rot away. You will find the whole of this genus do well in equal parts of peat, loam, and leaf mould used roughly. The drainage must be perfect, and a few crocks may be mixed with the compost with advantage. P. Javanica variegata, and P. ornatus, are two fine distinct kinds. p j0fo5s0 LILIU M LEICHILI THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. MARCH, 1869. GARDEN LILIES. "WITH EIGUJR.E OE LILIUM LEICHTLINII. l'NCE the introduction of the beautiful L. auratum, it has been supposed by one class of cultivators that it is the only lily worth growing ; on the other hand, it has attracted attention to the merits of other species and varie- ties. We have no intention to depreciate auratum, but while admiring it, let us not forget the glorious colouriag of L. chalcedonicum, the purity of L. candidum, the exquisite shades and markings of L. lancifolium, and the full and delicious fragrance of L. eximeum, which is white as driven snow, to say nothing about other distinguished members of the sisterhood. There are many lilies which are of more value as botanical curiosities than for their usefulness as decorative plants ; we shall have nothing to do with such in this paper, our object being to pick out a few that ought to be grown in every garden in the land. No herbaceous border is complete, in our estimation, without a goodly collection of lilies planted therein. There would be little room for the opponents of the mixed border to complain about its poverty of appearance were groups of the best kinds introduced, three or four bulbs being planted in each group. Another good way to grow lilies would be to make up a bed in a rather sheltered and out-of-the-way corner, and plant in it several sorts ; the display of bloom would then last for a considerable length of time. We do not suggest the planting of lilies in an out-of-the-way place because they are wanting in beauty, but rather on account of their being unsuitable for planting in geometric schemes. The essential condition for lily-growing out of doors is a light rich soil, well-drained, and sufficiently deep for the roots to go down beyond the influence of summer drought. If the soil in the bed is not naturally light and rich, it can be easily made so by taking out the ordinary stuff and replacing with equal parts of mellow hazel-coloured loam, rotten manure, and leaf-mould, all tho- roughly incorporated together. Lilies are not particular a3 to soil, VOL. IV. — NO. III. 5 CjG tile floral world and garden guide. for they will grow well in either loam or peat, pur et simple. So adaptable are they that we should never think of doing anything to an ordinary good soil beyond giving it a dressing of rotten manure, and correcting it if rather stiff with cocoanut-fibre refuse for the commoner kinds. A mixture of good turfy loam, peat, decayed manure, and leaf-mould, in equal quantities, and a liberal addition of silver sand, will suit all that are adapted for pot culture. The pots must be neither too large nor too small, and should have plenty of crocks in the bottom for drainage. September and October are the two best months in the whole year for either repotting or planting lily bulbs. At that time the bulbs begin to make fresh roots, and if left out of the ground long after that season, or if dis- turbed after the roots have begun their autumnal growth, the bulbs suffer material injury. When planted or potted in the autumn, the bulbs start into growth with the advantage of a potful of roots to support them; whereas others, disturbed in the spring, have to make much of their growth at the expense of the bulbs, simply because they have no roots with which to draw up a supply of nourishment. To grow lilies well, it is necessary to disturb them as little as possible, and when it is considered necessary to take them up, guard against breaking or bruising the bulbs, and let the work be done early in the autumn. The potted bulbs should be kept in a cold frame with sufficient protection to prevent the soil being frozen through, but at the same time kept cool to prevent them starting into growth too soon. With the exception of those wanted for flowering rather early, directly the frosty weather is past, stand the pots out of doors alto- gether to give the plants the benefit of pure air and the evening dews, which are so essential to a healthy and robust growth during the summer. Those in beds, if the soil is deep enough, will take care of themselves ; but those in pots will require plenty of water when in full growth, and after the pots become full of roots, an occasional dose of weak manure water will be of great service. We shall not exhaust all the good varieties in our select list, but if all the following are introduced to gardens where they have hitherto been strangers, and receive the treatment indicated by us, the proprietor will soon be hunting after others; in fact, collecting lilies is as entertaining and remunerative as any similar pursuit we can call to mind. We must put tbe glorious H. auratum first on our list, and well it deserves the post of honour, for it is equally at-home indoors and out, but is especiallly adapted for the conservatory, both for its delicious fragrance and large richly-coloured flowers. It will be well to class L. lancifolium with this, as it is so admirably adapted for the same purposes. In some catalogues many varieties are enumerated which so closely resemble each other, that to give them distinctive nnmes is absurd. The three we shall recommend are L. album, L. roseum, and L. rubrum, the latter being rather deeper in colour than roscum. These, with the noble L. giijanteum, are generally con- sidered the only varieties suitable for the conservatory. This is a mistake, as can be proved by any one who will pot up next autumn THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. G7 a few bulbs, three or four in each pot, of the sorts next to be recom- mended. If frame room is valuable through the winter, simply plunge the pots out of doors in a bed of refuse or ashes, to keep the frost from cracking the pots, and remove the plunging material from the surface directly the youug growth comes through the soil, to prevent the stems becoming drawn and blanched. The following, though perfectly hardy and suited for the open borders, are peculiarly well adapted for pot culture. If conservatory furnishers would deal with them in a more liberal manner, the poverty and sameness to be met with in most conservatories through July and August would be completely remedied. L. longiflorum is one of our best, the habit being dwarf with immense highly fragrant trumpet-shaped flowers. A fitting companion, though flowering rather earlier, is the bright scarlet-flowered L. tenuifolium. We have not exhausted the whites yet, for we have a grand subject in L. eximeum, which is rather larger in growth than tenuifolium. L. colcliicum, a noble species, the flowers sulphur-coloured with purple spots ; L. japonicum (or L. Broicni), white and purple ; and the pretty dwarf scarlet L.pulchellvm are all valuable, whether for the open border, or to grow in pots. Nor must we omit the lovely buff-coloured L. excelsum, which grows to a height of four feet, and is therefore valuable for back rows, or mixing with tall-growiug ferns, and, as a rule, is better suited for the open ground than for pots. L. giganteum must have a separate paragraph. It is the king of lilies, as the golden-striped lily is the queen. It is not well adapted for pot culture, yet may be grown to some degree of perfec- tion in a pot. We have found that if strong bulbs are potted singly in pots at least eight inches over, in good lumpy peat alone, with plenty of drainage, they do better than with any mixtures, and make a vigorous growth from the first. If the pots are well filled with roots, and the plants have a lusty appearance, shift them iuto twelve- inch pots in September, and let this be done without breaking the old ball, and without removing the crocks. As for the i*est, frame treatment, with abundance of water when in free growth, is all that is required. It is hardy in the southern and western counties, and a great clump of it left untouched for several years presents about as noble a spectacle as we can in any way derive from hardy herbaceous plants. The best example of this Jjilium, treated as a hardy 'plant, that we have met with is in the garden of Miss Young, near Taunton. There it revels in a deep bed of peat, which it covers with its great glossy leaves all the winter, and in summer throws up gigantic tufts of its elegant white bell-shaped flowers. For out-door work exclusively we have first the orange lily, L. croceum, commonly known as aurantiacum, etc. ; then again the common white lily, L. candidum, which is one of the grandest sub- jects imaginable for cutting for vases. The scarlet martagon, L. chalcedonium, must be added to the most select collection, as much for its free habit as its brilliant flowers. L. bulbiferum is in the way of the common orange Wly, but blooms earlier and is dwarfer in habit. Then again we have L. [hunberc/ianum, a very fine species, L. fulgens, and the good old tiger lily, L. tigrinum. There are many 68 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. varieties of each of the species named, but our advice to amateurs is, procure the types first, get well used to them, and take your time about obtaining varieties that differ from them in minute shades of colour or slight differences of form, but which, because they are scarce, are costly, and in only a few cases actual improvements on the ori- ginal kinds. Amongst the newer species of Lilium are several well worthy the attention of collectors : — L. auratum. — Of this grandest of all lilies, there are several fine varieties ; the best is named rubrum, its distinctive feature is a band of red down the centre of each petal in place of the typical band of yellow. Jj. Leichtlinii. — A beautiful Japanese species of neat and elegant habit, the flowers rich gamboge yellow, overlaid with heavy spots of deep umber or chocolate brown ; quite hardy. L. hoematochroum. — A fine Japanese species, with small leaves and a somewhat spare habit, the flowers deep blood-red, passing into shades and bands of black ; quite hardy. L. Formosum. — A Japanese species, with elegant linear leaves and orange-red flowers of great size and extreme beauty. L. Wilsoni. — A fine novelty from Japan ; it is related to L. thunberffianum, but sufficiently distinct. It is of stately habit, pro- ducing its flowers in an umbel at the summit of the stem ; they are a fine reddish orange colour, with dark spots and golden bands. S. H. THE CALADIUM. BT JONATHAN MIEES, Head Gardener to the Earl of Clarendon, Grove Park, Watford. [HE species and varieties of this lovely genus, so remark- able for beautiful foliage and general usefulness, are well worthy of extensive cultivation, not only by the pro- fessional gardener, whose skill and experience will enable him to grow several of the varieties to almost any dimensions (according to the size of the pots and number of bulbs used), but also by the amateur, who may not be in a position to accommodate them so well as the striking beauty of their fine foliage entitles them to, and for whose information especially I have been requested to furnish a short paper on the system adopted here in their cultivation, and more particularly on successfully wintering the bulbs when in a state of rest. We find, then, that some of our finest varieties are natives of South America, and found on the banks of the river Amazon. This fact will at once lead us to suppose that they delight in a rich and alluvial soil, and a warm humid atmosphere, while luxuriating in growth ; and will materially assist us in concluding that they should THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. G9 not at any time be subjected to a very low temperature — even when in a dormant state. Caladium culture is so simple, that we need only refer very briefly to this part of the subject ; and in so doing, we would ask the uninitiated to go with us to the pottiug-bench some time in the month of March — not particular to a day, but generally about the beginning, as about that time some of the earliest bulbs will be showing indications of starting themselves. Here, then, we turn out all our bulbs, carefully examine them, in order to see if any parts are decaying, which we seldom find to be the case, but if so, we at once remove them, and rub the parts with chalk or charcoal dust, gently taking off any old roots, decayed leaf-stalks, etc. We then proceed to select some small pots, regulating the size of the pots according to the size of the bulbs. These pots we have well crocked, generally placing a thin layer of sphagnum moss over the crocks, and filling up with soil, consisting of about equal parts good turfy loam, leaf-mould, or peat and sand, leaving depth enough for the bulbs, and about a quarter of an inch of the soil over their crowns ; if there is any appearance of decay, we surround the bulbs with charcoal-dust and silver-sand. This mixture of soil we like to have in good potting condition, i. e., neither wet nor dry. When potted, we take them to a well-prepared propagating frame, and place them in a moist temperature of about 753 Fahrenheit, giving them little or no water until they begin to start. This we would have the amateur observe, for should any appearance of decay be found, watering much at this stage would assuredly prove fatal if the bulbs were not moving. In a few weeks they will have filled up the pots with roots, and will require shifting. At this shift we generally use large pots for specimens, crocking them in the same manner as before, using two parts rich loam, one part well-decom- posed cow or sheep dung, and one part leaf-mould and sand. With this we fill up to within a few inches of the rims of the pots ; we then place the strongest plants in the centre, surrounding them with those of a smaller size, so that when finished the surface of the soil will be at least one inch or more beneath the level of the top of the pots. This space we find, when they are freely growing, is of great benefit to the specimen plants, when filled with thoroughly-decom- posed cow-dung and a sprinkling of charcoal-dust, to which we add a little loam as a top-dressing. Into this surface-dressing the roots will soon find their way, being freely emitted from the junction of the leaf-stalks with the bulbs. Presuming, then, that the plants and pots are now placed in their summer quarters, having a moist growing temperature of from 70° to S0J Fahrenheit, and moderately shaded, they progress rapidly. From this time, until they attain their greatest beauty, we copiously supply them with weak guano water. Caladium Bclleymeii and Argyrites we find do best when a little lighter soil is used, and not quite so much guano water. We would here caution the inexperienced against the injudicious use of this stimulant. Half an ounce to a gallon of water will be ample when regularly applied upon such rich surface-dressings, always 70 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. using the water as warm as the temperature of the house, at least. This, then, is a brief routine of our specimen culture, some of which have year after year graced several of the provincial horti- cultural shows in our neighbourhood, and were much admired. Small bulbs we grow in six-inch pots, for the decoration of the dinner-table, etc., and when we require a succession for this purpose in small pots, we take off the required number of offsets, pot them singly, transfer them to a close moist temperature, such as i3 used for propagating, where they soon establish themselves, and make nice little plants for late work. In July and August the specimen plants are at their best, and in September they begin to show signs of failing growth and beauty. We then commence gradually to withdraw the amount of moisture, continuing this until a moderately dry state of the soil is the result, and until the foliage has almost disappeared. This maturing process takes a considerable time, and must not be done by drying off the plants too speedily, for on the gradual and proper maturation of the bulbs will very much depend their successful keeping during the winter months. After the drying process has been satisfactorily accomplished, necessity compels us, for want of a regular plant-stove, to make shift with them as best we can ; this we invariably do by managing to have a small house of Muscat vines, well matured, and in a proper condition for pruning. "When pruned, we turn the vines outside, protect them during winter, and now convert this house into a plant-stove, wholly occupied until the following March with a choice collection of the most useful plants, generally in six-inch or eight- inch pots, for decorative purposes, etc. Beneath a temporary stage, erected for the plants, we manage to store away most of our Caladiums, turning them on their sides, thereby preventing any injurious effects from drip ; and in this position they remain until required for starting again, receiving a minimum temperature of about 60°, and an atmosphere sufficiently moist for the welfare of the table plants, which become at this time the first consideration. There are so many beautiful varieties in cultivation, that it is no easy matter to make a selection. But I feel that this paper would be incomplete if I omitted to name a few of the cheapest and most useful, such as the amateur should give preference to for distinctive characters, before purchasing many of the newer kinds. Argyrites and BeUeymei are essential in the smallest collection, for their exquisite shades of green and white ; they are the most delicately-coloured of all. Chantini is a strong-growing kind, with gorgeous crimson tints. Bicolor picturata is a noble kind, with rich red centre. Witjhti is remarkable for its red and white spots ; distinct from all the rest. Brongniarti is a fine companion to the last named. The foregoing six form a fine group for exhibition, and may be sufficient for most amateurs. In the " Garden Oracle " for 18G9 are descriptions of twelve THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 71 kinds, raised by M. Bleu, which M. Verdier is about to oiier. Not having seen any of these, I cannot, on my own account, recommend them ; but our Editor, who devotes a great part of his time in the inspection of novelties, tells me the following amongst them are remarkably fine, namely : — Duchatre, Lucy, Maxime Duval, Mozart, and Triomjphe de V Exposition. YELLOV7 BEDDEBS. |HERE is no deficiency of yellow flowers and yellow leaves for the bedding system, yet, perhaps, the yellow occasions more trouble and disappointment than any other. A few practical notes on the subject at this season may be useful. Calceolarias. — There are dozens of good varieties, and perhaps not one to surpass Oubridge's Gem, which is scarce. We recommend all who employ these plants in quantity to rely chiefly upon Gem, Gaines's Yellow, Bugosa Improved, and New Yellow Bouquet. Success depends very much upon culture. Eirst, it must be observed, that if the young plants are allowed to become pot-bound, they are likely to die at the end of June — a common occurrence. Where there is a stock in store-pots, they should either have a good shift now, or be planted out in light rich soil, iu frames, to make fresh roots in time to become strong for bedding. Secondly, the beds should be well prepared by deep digging and abundant manuring. A poor soil, shallow digging, starved plants, and hot weather, are the four chief causes of the deaths which commonly occur, and make blanks in the beds in the very height of summer. The ground should be as good for them as for cauliflowers or celery. Where the soil is poor and sandy, or chalky, or where sheer carelessness prevails, calceolarias should not be grown at all. The question is, what are people so situated to employ in their stead ? Golden Selp-leated Geraniums are undoubtedly the best of all plants, as a rule, to substitute for calceolarias, where these last have been given up. Probably, the best bedder of the class is Hibberd's Golden Banner, but, as that is expensive, Golden Fleece may be placed here as the plant for everybody; it seems only to need sunshine, and to have the flowers removed, to insure a splendid mass of golden yellow. For edgings and for small beds, Little Golden Christine is a gem for its leaves ; and so charming are its flowers, that none but a courageous and desperate artist will dare to remove them. The following are good in their way for those who bed largely : — Cloth of Gold, Golden Nugget, Goldfinch, Jason, General Longstreet. Usually, this class do well on beds slightly raised. Manure may be dispensed with, except in cases where the soil is worn out, but deep digging some time before planting is desirable, and a moderate dressing of manure will not be wasted, as a vigorous growth is desirable. 72 THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Bronze Zoned-leated Geraniums are far to be preferred to " tri-colours " or "gold zonals." The following are fine, and cheap: — Mrs. Lonnfield, Luna, Crystal Palace Gem (almost a self, and one of the very best), Canary Bird. Pansies. — The yellow Pansies are very showy, and have the . advantage of being hardy. The best of all is Cliveden Yellow, pro- ducing mvriads of small bright yellow flowers. None other of the Cliveden series are so good as the yellow. Hooper's Sunset is a grand thing, the flowers almost good enough for show. During wet, windy weather, however, the small-flowered sorts suffer the least. To do them well, the ground should be mellow, and moderately enriched with rotten hot-bed manure and leaf-mould. One advantage in the use of pansies is, that we may secure by their aid a good mass of flowers in places partly shaded, where many other bedders would be poor. Yellow Prince is worth a place where a third is required. . Lantanas. — A short paragraph will suffice, as beginners are not likely to succeed with them, and the cleverest will be nowhere without the help of a good climate. Por those who can do lantanas, Adolphe Jlwass is the best yellow ; Conqueror, Consolation, and Lina Ettmger are also good. Tagetes signata eemila. — A very valuable bedding plant, which the great people have used largely, and to great advantage, but which the small people appear to be still (and stubbornly) in the dark about. It is a miniature marigold, with fern-like leaves, and multitudes of orange-coloured flowers. Get a pinch of good seed, and sow it in a pan, from the first week of March to the first week in April. Put the pan in a close frame, or warm corner of a greenhouse. When the plants are large enough to take hold of, prick them out into other large pans, or singly in thumb-pots, or bed them in a mass of very light rich stuff in a frame, near the glass. Plant out about the middle of May ; soil of no consequence, but sunshine essential. Plant rather thick, say four inches apart. Keep an eye on their mode of growing, for in the best samples of seeds there are two distinct sorts. Pull out and destroy all that shoot up rank above the rest, for if left they will scarcely flower, and will much disfigure the bed. The gaps made by this practice will soon be filled up by the spread of the plants remaining. Gazania splendens is a glorious bedder, but peculiar in its appearance, making but a small show when viewed from a distance. It requires a good light soil, and a sunny situation. The cuttings should be struck in autumn. This is all that need be said about it. TROPiEOiEMS. — Por hot, dry soils, raised banks, and other roasting positions, where calceolarias would be sure to perish, the Tropseolums will be sure to live and thrive. Of sorts to be grown from cuttings, Compachim luteum, one of George's series, is the very best. If a cheaper sort is required, procure seed of Tom Thumb Yellow, and sow, six inches apart, in the bed where they are to flower. They may be sown in winter without fear of loss, but the end of March is early enough. Sow, also, a few in reserve ground, or any odd sunny corner. When your bed is in flower, there will probably be a few rogues, or plants not quite true to the character required. Pull THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 73 these out, and fill up their places by transplanting from your reserve plot. Golden Balm makes a splendid edging, if planted where it can remain several years, but is useless if propagated or lifted annually. Bear in mind, however, that about the middle of July it goes rusty, and is no more use until the next season. No art of man can pre- vent this ; it is the nature of the belated beauty. Arabis luclda, fol. var., makes a chaste yellowish edging on a dry, sandy soil, but is useless on loam and clay, as a rule. You see this plant in perfection at Kew, where the soil is too sandy for deodaras and cauliflowers. Coleus Beauty op St. John's Wood will be, I believe, the grandest golden leaf bedder ever yet seen, but my belief in anything is only worth so much or so little. Try it as an experiment, you who value yellow leaves, and be sure to give it a rich light soil, and a sunny situation. Mr. Gibson's way is the best ; he plunges the coleus in pots, haying quite given up the system of planting out. Fuchsia Golden Fleece makes a pretty, mild mass of yellow ; it is not golden. The flowers must be picked off, and the best way to do it is to nip off the tips of the shoots every ten days. Pyrethrum Golden Feather is a first-rate bedding plant for a line or mass of clear sulphur colour. Any soil will do, but sun it must have. If you cannot afford plants, buy seed, for it comes that way as true as the Floral World. Variegated Coltsfoot is extremely pretty, but scarcely belongs to the class of yellow bedders. The best way to make a correct line is to plunge potted plants. At all events, if you plant it out, it will run about, for it is an outrageous traveller. On a poor sandy or chalky soil it is fine. Golden Thtme. — I saw a lot of this lately at Messrs. E. G. Henderson's. I was afraid to ask the name or the price, for fear they should charge me a guinea for looking at it. What a gem of a plant, to be sure ; if the fairies do not carry it clean out of mortal reach, they deserve to be themselves put clean out of sight from people who patronize pantomimes. There is a Thymus zygis, native of Spain, a white-flowering plant, which resembles it in shape and size of leaf. Can this be tbe species ? I don't know ; I was afraid to inquire ; but I should like a knoll of the " Golden Thyme" in my fernery, for my tame rabbits to sit upon ; they would not spoil it or soil it, they have such respect for my fid-fads. If I never have it that way, it is fixed in my head like a beautiful dream, and dwells in my heart, and pays no rent. " Och hone," the beautiful thyme. S. H. A Donkey's Taste foe. the Concertina. — I knew musical pleasure experienced by a donkey, whenever a concertina was played. It was discovered by accident, but was utilized by the animal's master. For the donkey was accustomed to browse in a meadow which opened into a coppice, and during the hot weather, probably to avoid the flies, the animal used to wander into this coppice, where, on account of the thickness of the brushwood, it was rather a difficult task to discover him when wanted. Having found that the animal was fond of music, though how the secret was first made known I cannot tell, instead of beginning a long search for him, a concertina was brought out of the house and played, when, in a few minutes, out of the coppice would come the donkey, racing along with tail erect, and braying melodiously meanwhile. lie would then allow himself to be saddled. — Leisure Hour. 74 THE SEASON'S WOEK IN THE EOSE GAEDEN. SHE principal work for the rosarian now is to prune bis roses. The wary practitioner is never in haste to do this ; the beginner is apt to be in undue haste. In the horticultural journals, early pruning is generally en- couraged, very much, I consider, to the injury of the cultivator, and the discredit of the advisers. I have always advocated late pruning, and have plainly told the reason why. Perhaps a little more on the subject may be acceptable to rose-growers. We prune fruit trees and timber trees in autumn, and we call all those culti- vators slovens, prorrastinators, and layabeds who defer the pruning of these things till spring. Tet we stick to the rule of advising cultivators of the rose to wait till the middle of March before com- mencing to prune, except in the case of a few kinds that may be pruned earlier than the rest, and in the case also of gardens so situated that the frosts, common at this time of the year, do not affect them. That the two classes of subjects, say fruit trees and rose trees, should have different treatment is indicated by their differences of character and behaviour. Not a pear tree, or an apple tree, or a plum tree has yet begun to grow, nor a bud on any of them has begun to swell even, except where they are on walls, and therefore differently circumstanced to those in the open. The warmth of the ten weeks from the end of November to the middle of February has had no effect upon them ; but upon the roses it has had the effect of making them grow freely, and in some cases flower with about the same degree of vigour they usually have in the month of October. Such a difference of behaviour ought to teach the cultivator to apply to them differences of treatment, and one of the differences I insist on is a difference as to the season of pruning. The proper treatment of roses has in view to keep the flower- buds dormant until the time has arrived when they may be allowed to grow. We desist from pruning, we allow them to grow all winter as they please, and the effect is just the same as putting earth over the crowns of hyacinths in borders. As the sap in its action always rushes upwards, we find that mild weather causes the tops of the shoots to grow ; but all down the stout stems of last season are invisible buds, the places of which are discernible by an obscure ring or joint, and a slight red stain marking where the bud is situated. By preserving the green tops, the sap, kept in motion by undue winter warmth, flows past these buds, goes upward, leaves them dormant, and thus prevented growing, and hidden as it were in embryo within the wood, they are preserved from the stimulus of day heat and the oppression of night frost. This is the philosophy of the case stated in a few plain words ; and those amateurs who a month ago were in haste to prune their roses, will see now the soundness of the argument employed to dissuade them, for the frost will kill the soft green tops which are of no use, but will leave un- hurt those buds which are situated on the ripest of the wood, and from which the best blooms of the coming season are to be derived. THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 75 It may be worth while, too, to ask the meaning of the difference in the behaviour of roses and fruit trees in such a season as this. One thing is certain, that all the roses in our gardens behave as nearly us they can in the same manner as in their native climes, both as respects their seasons of growing, and blooming, and going to rest. And other plants do the same. Instead of waiting on the weather, and growing as the mulberry and walnut trees do, when it is perfectly safe to grow, they appear to refer to the almanac, and find thereby that their date of growing has arrived, and thence begin to thrust out their hands — only perhaps to have their fingers nipped off, and their arms benumbed, so as to be disahled for some time afterwards. Our native trees have their several times of leafing in regular succession, and those times are in perfect harmony with the average phenomena of the seasons. But exotics, especially such as come from warmer climates than this, have also their dates of leafing, and those dates are generally in advance of the dates of our native trees, and hence in advance of the average phenomena of the seasons here. Every year the lilacs push first of all our garden trees ; they are natives of parts of China and Persia, where by the 1st of February spring is as far advanced as it is usually with us by the 20th of May. The story of the Glastonbury Thorn derives its phvsiological interest from the fact that, as having been brought from Palestine, it still endeavours to regulate its movements to the Palestine almanac, which requires barley to be harvested in April, and the flowers of Crataegus to open in December. Our wild roses in the hedgerows are quiet enough at the present time, but Damasks, that are natives of Syria, and Teas, that are natives of China, always endeavour to grow before the season is sufficiently advanced for them ; and hence the policy of pruning late, and in the case of Teas of giving them a check by lifting annually. Nearly all our good roses are natives of climates that are earlier and warmer. than ours, or if of English origin, are derived from parents that were originally natives of warmer climates ; so that however inured — as they are to a certain extent, but not completely — to the climate of Britain, their family idiosyncrasies, or as we may say their peculiarities transmitted by descent, remain, and if the rose- grower does not pay proper attention and respect to the fact he must fail somewhere in his routine of cultivation. On this consideration may be founded an objection to Manetti roses. The Manetti is a mere Italian brier, which does not make strong stems like our English briers, but throws up from the root continually, and so renews itself as a bush. We use it as a stock, and as a stock it regulates its movements as much as possible by the almanac of its native land, and begins to grow always before the season here is sufficiently advanced for it. When used for pot-roses, the excitability of the Manetti is sometimes an advantage, because if we want early growth and early bloom the stock is in the right humour to co-operate with our measures of stimulating vegetable activity. But out of doors the excitability of the Manetti is a dis- advantage, and goes a great way to explain how it it is there are so many losses among Manetti roses after a hard winter. The fine 76 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. days of January — if there are any — set the Manettis growing, the frosts of February kill all the soft growth, and the winds of March suck the sap out of the harder wood lower down ; and before the genial moisture and warmth of April has begun to revive the face of nature, all of the rose is dead but the mere roots, which in a case of this sort die last, because most protected. But the roots revive and throw up suckers, and if the rosarian is a rosarian he soon dis- covers what is the matter, roots them out, and uses them as stocks to work again, or without much ado deposits them in the muck-pit. But the rosarian who is not a rosarian takes delight in seeing the nice blueish leafage of the shoots that come from the roots of his departed roses, and waits for bloom — Heaven help him ! he may wait, he will never see it. This hypothetical case illustrates the value of own-root plants ; for in the first place they are not so apt to rush into growth, and so expose themselves to the northern blast ; and in the second place, if the blast lays them low, there is a power left in the roots to make them rise again, fresher and stronger than ever, true to the characters they bore, and worthy of such a glorious resurrection. The Arabs are said to be the authors of the table of the phoenix. In the great flat lands of Mesopotamia, where roses grow in thousands, there are severe frosts at times that do much havoc, but no one can trace their effects when spring returns, for lo ! the plants that were killed in the ground spring up again, and testify that the breasts of mother earth are not yet dry, nor the current of her blood checked in its energetic flowing. Job, who lived in Idumea, where the fable of the phoenix had in ancient days its place amongst a thousand similar fancies wrought out of truest philosophy, had himself speculated on this renewing power of the root as affording a lesson for the meditative mind. Be says there is hope of a tree, if it be cut down, that it will sprout again, and through the scent of waters it will bud. In like manner, every rose will renew itself from the roots, if the roots are its own ; and there is hope of it, therefore, if it be cut down. This is a capital time to plant roses, indeed the next best time to November ; and if own-root roses can be got, they are to be preferred to all others, even at five times the price. I wish the thousands of amateur rosarians could be supplied from the nurseries with such plants as mine, furnished with clean stems half an inch or more in diameter, and which may be cut to any height or any shape at the will of the cultivator. But they cannot be got for money, though they may be for love, for any one can raise them, and it puzzles me beyond all that is commonplace in puzzling that the amateurs, having giving the trade every necessary opportunity to do what is wanted, do not take the business into their own hands, and propagate for themselves. But I am too fast; for since the publication of the " Bose Book" many letters have come to Land in which I am in- foimed of the success of amateurs in raising roses from cuttings, layers, and ejes ; and if I wait a little longer, I have no doubt I shall pee the beginning of a passion for raising roses from seed ; and when that comes, the rose will enjoy a higher place amongst us than it does now, and we shall be less ready to part with hard-earned cash THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 77 to buy French novelties, the whole value of which too often is in their names alone. As regards established roses, I advise that they be left alone for the present ; and as regards the planting of roses, I cannot do better than refer those who are not au fait at making selections to the list in this year's " Garden Oracle," which is the most complete and eclectic list anywhere to be found, and is adapted for all classes of purchasers. S. H. THE SARRACENIA, OR SIDE-SADDLE FLOWER. BY THOMAS BAINES, Head Gardener to H. Mickolls, Esq., Suniraerfield, Bowden. Cheshire. ANT amateurs who dare not attempt to grow the Nepenthes, or Indian pitcher-plants, might indulge their taste for curiosities by growing Sarracenias, or American pitcher-plants. Although these have not the gorgeous colours of the more fashionable inmates of our stoves and greenhouses, they are in some cases charmingly tinted ; when they flower they are beautiful, and at all seasons they are intensely interesting, and this interest is kept up throughout the year. In consequence of having frequently exhibited large pans of Sarracenias, for which I have taken many prizes, the method of culture I adopt is often inquired after. I always communicate such information fully and unreservedly, for I do not believe in secrets in gardening matters. For the benefit of all whom it concerns, I propose to give, in the Floral World, a few hints on their general cultivation. As they are found indigenous in Florida and the adjacent regions of Temperate America, it is at once obvious that they do not require, nor will they long exist in, that excessive heat, especially in the winter, to which we often see them subjected. Through the months of September, October, November, December, and Januarjr, I find that a temperature by night of 45° to 50°, and by day 50' to 55°, to suit them best. About the middle of February they show signs of growth ; then I pot them, and increase the tem- perature about 5° day and night. By the middle of April I give them h° more. Through May, June, and July I give them 65° at night, with a rise of 10° by day : of course, in very hot weather the temperature will run higher, but they get plenty of air day and night. They are kept near the glass, and a thin shade is used in sunny weather. The mode of propagation is by division of the crowns with a sharp knife. The compost I pot in is good fibrous peat, broken about the size of pigeons' eggs, to which is added one-sixth of chopped sphagnum, and sufficient silver-sand and crocks, broken to the size of horse-beans, to keep the soil quite open. On no account are the plants allowed to remain more than twelve months in the same soil, however fresh it may appear ; for if left a second season, 7S THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. the soil will be certain to become sour, and then the roots rot as fast as they are made. When repotting, shake them clean out. I do not approve of pans placed under the pots ; and never syringe overhead, as it has a tendency to induce a softer growth in the pitchers, which causes them to die off much sooner. During the growing season I water every day ; in winter, twice a week. I should strongly advise those who may be commencing their cultivation to procure thoroughly-established plants, as there is great uncertainty in imported ones : sometimes almost every plant in an importation will grow, but much oftener after potting they commence growing, and go on the first season without making any roots, the leaves they produce being simply the last effort of the plant working on the little vitality it has left. In this respect they resemble ferns, which often die while producing fronds, but without a particle of root. Such plants are almost certain to go off in the winter ; hence their scarcity. On one occasion I received a dozen plants, which all appeared to be going on right the first season, but only one of the number lived through the winter ; they had made no roots. Many amateurs fail in the cultivation of these plants through neglect of one peculiarity of their constitution. I have frequently seen plants in the hands of those to whom I have related my prac- tice, and, perhaps, in much the same words as now. They generally appear right in the material in which they are potted, and in respect of water, and so forth ; but they are often placed upon dry shelves ! Now, it must be obvious to any one who has any pretensions to a knowledge of vegetable physiology (and no man can be a gardener without such knowledge), no matter how great an amount of water we apply to the roots of a plant that grows naturally in a swamp if the atmosphere that surrounds it is too dry, it cannot possibly be expected \o succeed. It would be just as reasonable to expect a Cape heath to thrive well in the atmosphere of a fern-house, by simply using suitable materials in potting, and keeping its roots sufficiently dry. I have a movable stage for my Sarracenias (placed upon inverted flower-pots), standing upon the permanent stage of the house in which they grow. This stage is six feet by six feet, and is made of spruce boards, without any openings. It is unplatted, and not painted. This, it will be seen, absorbs a great deal of water, which is being continually given off amongst the plants above, and obviously must keep the Sarracenias in a much different condition to what they would be if placed on a shelf, or anywhere under the influence of a dry current of air. The sorts I cultivate are these : — S. rubra, which is extremely rare ; the flowers scented, equal to Russian violets. S. purpurea, and a variety much finer than usual in its veinings. 8. flava, three varieties, quite distinct from each other. 8. variolaris. S. Drummondii rubra and Drummondii alba, the latter variety being very scarce. 79 GESNEEA ZEBRINA. BT HENRY HO W LETT. jEVEEAL years ago, I was gardener at a Norfolk shooting seat, where the family and visitors resorted in con- siderable numbers during the shooting season, but at no other time ; consequently my whole force and appliances were directed to the supply of autumn and winter flowers, fruits, and vegetables ; but as I need not speak now of the latter, I shall confine myself to the one subject of this brief paper. "Well, then, the Gesnera zebrina was one of my grandest subjects, for whether as a mass two feet across, to furnish vases in the corridor or conservatory, or as siugle specimens for dressing flower-stands or the dining-table, nothing could surpass it for richness, and withal I am not aware that there was any particularly difficult point in its culture. Perhaps I had hit upon it without being aware of it, yet, if I may judge from what I have seen elsewhere, and what one of your correspondents says, all who essay its culture are not so suc- cessful. I have seen this plant, to be sure, in many places present- ing a meagre, sickly aspect, and have observed, that when perched upon shelves or stages amongst other plants, that it does not pre- sent that glorious appearance of having been made of — what shall I say ? Shot velvet ? "Well, at any rate, if you have the right sort (for there was one variety much more beautiful than any other), and keep its foliage perfect, I do not know that any velvet can equal it. I believe that success depends mainly upon four things — namely, the potting its tubers in shallow pots or seed-pans, with abundance of crocks and a rich porous soil, such as coarse lumps of peat and decayed vegetable refuse ; secondly, keeping the pots plunged in some kindly medium, such as leaves, tan, or, what is better, perhaps, cocoanut fibre ; thirdly, never allow water to be splashed or syringed over them, nor dust allowed where they are — that is to say, whilst they are in course of preparation for making the final display, after that they must rough it ; fourthly, they must be kept near the glass, in a moderately -heated structure— that is to sajr, if they have a nice bottom-heat in the summer months, with the benefit of solar warmth, no great amount of firing will be necessary, except in dull and cold weather, when there must be a little fire day and night. The foregoing directions indicate that a pit is the place to grow them. My stock, when pretty well up to their full growth, used to fill six or seven lights ; when they had done their duty in the house or conservatory, I used to set them in any dry house to ripen, where, of course, the temperature was never so low as freezing ; then, during the spring months, take a few pots at a time, selecting those that first went to rest, for the first potting, and shaking the bulbs out of the old soil, select the strongest, and pot at once in the full-sized pots or pans in which they are to grow to perfection, placing from one to seven bulbs in each, according to the size of the pan, and treat them as directed above. so THE LADIES' GARDEN.— No. III. BY J. C. CLAEKE, Head Gardener at Cotkelston House, Taunton. SHE more numerous the features of a garden the greater the pleasure it will afford to those who are interested iu it. I propose this month to consider, in connection with the Ladies' Garden, the subject of Alpine and Rock Plants, and as they offer a great variety of exquisite forms and brilliant colours, I cannot do better than advise all who can set apart a portion of their garden for these most beau- tiful and interesting plants to do so. They are neither expensive to purchase, nor difficult to cultivate, although they offer the most varied and interesting features amongst all the ornamental plants that we possess ; moreover, they occupy but little room, and, com- paratively speaking, require but little attention when once estab- lished. We may, without fear of contradiction, pronounce them to be eminently adapted for the lady amateur who cares more for real beauty than mere glitter. I will begin with saying that the position for growing these plants should be fully exposed to the sun, and, if possible, an elevated spot should be selected to insure their health and display their character. There should be a good body of earth, in which their roots may ramify freely. The form and construction of a spot for alpine and rock plants, should in fact be rather isolated from the garden by a belt of shrubs or a green fence, but no attempt should be made in small gardens to create an elaborate design. It is better by far to have the spot prepared for usefulness than for show. Raised clumps or banks with intervening walks are by no means objectionable, and the surface should be made irregular by the addition of stones or burrs from an ordinary brick-kiln. These, when properly placed, will form receptacles for the plants, and when com- pleted, the surface will present a broken and undefined appearance, which will agree much better with the characters of the plants than would a smooth and an even surface, or any approach to formality. The greatest enemy to the well-doing of these subjects is damp. Therefore a water-logged soil is always to be avoided ; but having raised beds or banks, we do away with the necessity of draining, and secure for our plants conditions similar to those which prevail in their alpine homes. It is of the utmost importance to see that those plants which are averse to damp are planted in a porous soil. A capital mixture for the more robust-growing ones consists of equal parts of fibrous loam, half-rotten turves, and old mortar broken into lumps the size of walnuts. This mixture when placed between the stones to receive the plants will serve all the purposes of the strong- growing kinds. A few of these I will here enumerate ; but as the space allotted me will not allow of descriptions, I may just say that all I shall name may be planted with every confidence, as they are all good. I shall first name the Potentillas. These are strong growing THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 81 plants, and may be placed at the back or in the centre of a mound ; there are several very beautiful varieties, and they last a long while in flower. Then we have the Saxifrages, which are all good ; the best perhaps are S. oppositifolia, 8. Stansfieldii, S. Andrewsii, S. hypnoides, and S. pyramidalis. Besides these, there are scores of others to be found in the best collections. Another very charming tribe of plants for this purpose is the Sedum. From amongst these I should choose S. fabaria, S. Sieboldii, S. Ewersii, and 8. semperviviodes. Besides these we have the Iberis, or perpetual candytuft, the Alhjsums, white and yellow ; Aubrietia purpurea, and that little gem of all gems Aubrietia purpurea varieyata, a charming subject for this work. So also is Arabis albida, and A. albida varieyata. If more are needed, Ave have only to look amongst the herbaceous plants, and we shall find Cyclamen hederifolium, and C. Europeum ; Hepaticas in different colours, AnthylUs montana, many of the small growing Campanulas, the Forget-me-nots, one or t.vo of the dwarf varieties of PLellehorus and Cerastiums. All the above, except the little variegated Aubrietia, will do in the soil above-named. For the last named, and for those which follow, the soil should consist of equal parts leaf-soil and fibrous peat. I shall now name some choice bits which will require a little more care and attention, but the reader will find they are highly deserving of it. First on this list I shall name the little dwarf Phloxes, such as alpinus, ovatus, setaceus, subulata, and verna ; the Dianthus alpinus, Thymus Corsica, Linaria alpina, Silene alpestris. Let us not forget the alpine section of Primulas, so well adapted, as they are for an alpine and rock garden, and never seen to better advantage than when peeping up between stones or rugged debris. The best are P. nivalis, P. maryinata, P. ciliata, P. farinosa, and P. cortusoides. I should choose next Erica herbacea, E. camea, and several others of the dwarf hardy heaths. Lastly, I must not forget that most beautiful of all alpine plants, the Lithospermum fruticosum. The dark, almost heavenly blue of this charming plant surpasses all but the Gentians in colour. All who have a collection of alpine plants must have this and the equally lovely Gentians, or they will miss two of the best classes of plants amongst the many that are adapted for the rockery. As to the manner and season of planting these subjects, the end of March or the beginning of April are the best. When planting- use enough soil to sustain the plant when in its full vigour. It will require some amount of taste and judgment to display them properly, but the character of each will soon show itself. At least it will do so the first year ; when, if any of them are out of place, they may be removed in the autumn, so as to make all right for the next season. It is a good plan after they are planted, to place a few small pebbles or small stones round the collar (or, as we may say, underneath the plant), of such as are the more succulent. But hard-wooded plants will not require it. Slugs are great enemies to some of these plants when the young growth is springing up. The best way to deal with them is to lift up the branches of the plants, and scatter beneath them a dusting of soot and lime, just enough to cover the ground. It is best to do this at least three or four times VOL. IV. — NO. III. 6 82 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. a year, even if no slugs are visible, as prevention is better than a cure in this as in all other cases. Generally speaking, although alpine plants cannot endure damp, and must have well drained positions, yet a long exposure to drought is highly injurious. There- fore during hot dry weather give them plentiful supplies of water towards evening, and they will repay you with their charming smiles. And now, as a concluding paragraph, let me endeavour to prevail on those of my readers who can appreciate exquisite forms and lovely colours in the vegetable creation, to make themselves familiar with alpine and rock plants, and they will ever hereafter feel that they are indebted to the pages of the Floeal Woeld for advocating their adoption for the Ladies' Garden. For my own part I cannot imagine anything more fascinating, for those who are fond of their garden, than a well-grown collection of these plants, for they are not gaudy to-day and bereft of beauty to-morrow, for there Avill be every month — nay, I may say every day — some fresh feature amongst them springing up that will interest and amuse those whose tastes and inclinations are that way inclined ; and what perhaps fits them the better for the Ladies' Garden is the fact that they require the gentle care and watchfulness such as only the fair sex can render, for no unthinking, careless hand should be allowed to touch them, or their tender forms may soon vanish under the cruel treatment of some rude blunderer. I have pictured in my mind's eye what elevating and interesting hours of amusement is in store for those who cultivate these plants with a determination to do them justice ; and, on the other hand, I can imagine the disappoint- ment of those who begin to grow them and then leave them to their fate. To the latter I would say, you had better leave them alone, they are not for such unstable minds and fancies as yours ; but for those who will continue to caress and love them they will furnish uninterrupted joy and pleasure. CULTUEAL EEMAEKS ON THE AUEICULA. BY ME. J. JAMES, Head Gardener to W. F. Watson, Esq., Islewortb. HE beautiful new varieties of Alpine Auriculas raised by Mr. Turner are likely to do more service in dispelling the cloud which has hung over these lovely plants for so many years past, than all the lamentations of the florists uttered during that time. I shall not indulge in a lot of maudlin talk about the " decline of floriculture" and other rubbish; for the rapid strides which have been made with many florists' flowers, both in raising new varieties and the establishment of better systems of culture, convince me that floriculture is not declining but advancing. It is true that a few subjects have suffered neo-lect from the change in fashion, but nothing more, and there can be no doubt Auriculas have suffered more than most others. It is, however, useless to disguise the fact that show Auriculas are THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 38 difficult to propagate and grow. It is this consideration that should induce us to hail with pleasure the improved race of Alpines, as they are so much hardier iu constitution, and of a freer habit than the others, so that any one with ordinary abilities and the time to attend to them, may grow a collection tolerably well. They are by no means deficient in beauty, aud some people prefer them to the show varieties. When I first thought about offering a few suggestions upon the culture of these plants, I intended confining myself entirely to the Alpines, but as the treatment of all is the same, I prefer to speak of Auriculas generally. The first point to be thought about is the soil. I have used many different composts since I first began to grow Auriculas, and I am bound to say that few plants are more simple in their habits than these. If they are potted in too rich a compost, it is just the same with them as it is with overfed beasts, or anything else. It impairs the constitution so far as to render it tender and unable to endure the various vicissitudes that it has to encounter. I have used a compost for many years past, in which my plants do remark- ably well. It consists of good turfy loam, chopped up rather fine, but with the whole of the fibre retained, one part ; cow-dung rotted to a powder, one part ; thoroughly decayed leaf-mould, one part. When these are all mixed together I add a peck of night soil to a barrowful of the other constituents. The night soil I use is seven or eight years old, and so thoroughly rotted as to be scarcely distin- guishable from ordinary garden soil. It is highly important that the night soil is not used too fresh, or it will undoubtedly seriously injure the plants. Sufficient sharp silver sand must ba added to make the whole gritty and porous. During November, December, and January, the plants are dor- mant, and all the attention required during that period will be to keep them free from decayed foliage and aphides. The frames in which they are grown must be freely ventilated when the weather is mild, and they must have sufficient water to prevent the foliage flagging. In giving the water, be very careful not to let it run into the hearts of the plants ; and if by chance any does, drain it out by tilting the plants bottom upwards, for if allowed to remain, it will invariably rot the centre. This must be attended to at all times of the year, but more particularly in the winter. When the weather is frosty the ventilators must be closed, aud when very sharp it will be well to throw a mat over the lights during the night. About the second week in February top-dress with equal proportions of the above-mentioned compost and cow-dung. Eemove about half an inch of the surface soil, and replace with the top-dressing, pressing it rather firm. It will be advisable to go over the plants a few days previously, and water all that need it, for it will be a difficult matter to ascertain which is dry, and which is wet for a iew days afterwards. Auriculas require rather nice management in March, to give them abundance of air without their being injured by the cold wiuds. The frames must be covered every night when there is any sign of frost, to prevent the flower trusses being injured. 84 TEE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Where the trusses require thinning, do it with a sharp pair of scissors, and cut away the small pips in the centre of the truss. They will be coming into flower in April, and must still be protected, and have plenty of air to keep the flower-stalk sturdy as well as for the general health of the plants. As they come into bloom shift into a frame with a north aspect. Here they are to remain until the following October. From the beginning of March increased supplies of water will be required, but no more must be used than is sufficient to keep them in health, for if the soil in the pots once becomes very wet, it is useless to expect the plants to do well, for they are impatient of excess of moisture either at the roots or overhead. As fast as the trusses fade, nip off the flower-stem a short distance below the truss, unless it is intended to save seed. It should not be forgotten that seed-bearing weakens the plant. From the time they go out of flower until the end of July, they must have con- stant attention in the way of watering and keeping clear of dead leaves and green-fly, and have all the air possible. A very slight shower now and then would be beneficial, but it will be best for those who know very little about the matter, to always keep the lights on in wet weather, as much judgment is required in the exposure of the plants to rain. The general re-potting must take place about the last week in July, or the first week in August. Beware of over potting. A five or six-inch pot will be quite large enough for full -sized plants; smaller ones will do best in 60's. The pots must be thoroughly well drained to carry off the water quickly. In potting, fill the pot about one-third part full of soil, and then shake out the plant. If the tap roots of any of them are rather long and deficient of fibres, cut them back slightly ; and if you see any signs of decay, they ought to be cut above the unsound part, and the wound dressed with powdered charcoal. When placed in the fresh pots the roots must be spread out regularly, and the soil filled in rather firm, the base of the lower leaves should stand about half an inch above the surface of the soil. The re-potting will also be a good time for taking offsets, which can then be slipped away very carefully and potted single in small pots, or f veral in a larger one. Extra care must be exercised in watering un" 1 the pots begin to get full of roots, but they must have sufficient, as they will then begin to make their growth. They must have an abundance of air, in fact a week or so after they are re-potted the lights should be drawn off altogether, excepting when the weather is wet and showery, and then they must be tilted back and front. In October the plants require to be brought back into a frame with a south aspect, in which they are to remain until the following spring. All flower trusses that come up in the autumn should be removed by first breaking off the trusses, and afterwards re- moving the stem directly it begins to decay, for if allowed to rot to the bottom it will most likely kill the plant. " Rot " is one of the principal enemies the grower has to contend with. Sometimes it begins at the neck, and at others at the extremity of the tap root. The first is detected by the plant leaning to one side, and the best THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 85 remedy is to remove the whole of the decayed part with a sharp knife, and rub a little powdered charcoal on the wound, and let it get dry before replacing the soil about it. The rot at the tap root is shown by the centre of the plant appearing to be all right and the outside foliage drooping, as if suffering for the want of water. The only remedy for this, is to shake the plants entirely out of the soil, and cut oft' the diseased end, and re-pot again. If the rot has extended itself above the fibrous roots, a little silver sand placed round the root will induce others to start. Auriculas must be very carefully watered at all seasons, but more particularly during the winter. Soft water should be used at all times, for though stimulating manure water is frequently recom- mended, I am satisfied the plants are much better without it. Green-fly is rather partial to these plants, but it can be easily kept under with a little tobacco water, or a slight fumigation. It is also necessary to remove all decayed foliage without delay, as the rot will sometimes extend itself to the main stem and destroy the plant. I grow the whole of my collection in frames, with a ventilator both back and front, just under the plate upon which the light rests. This enables me to give sufficient air at all times, without the risk of wetting the foliage to excess. I should have liked to give a descriptive list of a few of the best, but as I am afraid of taking up too much space, I will merely give the names. White edged. — Lightbody's Countess of Dunmore, Lee's Bright Venus, Wild's Bright Phosbus. Ghrey edged. — Turner's Ensign, Turner's Mr. Marnock, Reid's Miss Giddings, Lightbody's Sir John Moore, Fletcher's Ne Plus Ultra, Headly's Superb. Green edged. — Stretch's Alexander, Hudson's Apollo, Oliver's Lovely Ann, Cheetam's Lancashire Hero. Selfs. — Spalding's Blackbird, Smith's Formosa, Lightbody's Meteor Flag, Spalding's Metropolitan, Turner's Negro, Richmond's North Star. Alpines. — Beatrice, Constellation, Field Marshal, Minnie, Trum- peter, Venus. I have excluded all the new and expensive varieties, but I have no hesitation in saying that a better twenty-four old sorts cannot well be had than those enumerated above. Italian Mushrooms. — Mr. Story, in his account of the Piazza Navona, the principal market of Rome, makes the following mention of some of the fungi used in Italy for food : — " In the summer, as we pick our way along, we run constantly against great baskets of rnusbrooms. There are the grey porcini, the foliated alberelti, and the orange-bued ovale; some of the latter of enormous size, big enough to shelter a thousand fairies under their smooth and painted domes. In each of them is a cleft stick, bearing a card from the inspector of the market, granting permission to sell them ; for mushrooms have proved fatal to so many Cardinals, to say nothing of Popes and other people, that they are naturally looked on with suspicion, and must all be officially examined to prevent accidents. The Italians are braver than we are in the matter of eating ; and many a fungus which we christen with the foul name of toadstool, and ignominiously exile from our tables, is here baptized with the Christian appellation of mushroom, and is eagerly sought after as one of the cheapest and most delicious of vegetables." — Story's " Eoba di Roma." 86 EVEELASTING ELOWEES FOE WINTEE BOUQUETS. BY KAEL PEOSPEE. AM to treat on this subject in a small space of time. I shall tell you that what you have in your shops at Christmas are spoilt flowers badly mounted, so those friends who would do them as we do in Germany, where these winter wreaths were first formed, had best grow the flowers and prepare them for their own use. I promise them, thereby, a recreation. It is a time of year in which few perhaps will care to read this paper, for, as Goethe says in Eaust — " Old "Winter past, and worn, and weak, Is flying to his mountains bleak, But still as on his way he wends, O'er the green meadows in his flight, His useless showers of hail he sends, For now the sun endures no white ; O'er all the earth he spreads his hues, And life and growth themselves diffuse." "Well, those who now obtain the seeds, and prepare the soil, may be on the right way to have joyous flowers for the next Christmas- tide ; and those who, like the cricket in the song, chirrup away the merry hours and make no provision, will find themselves unprovided when the winter comes. The faults of the flowers sold at the shops are that they consist of the commonest sorts, that they are dyed, and, therefore, all false in colour, and that they are grouped with absolutely no taste at all. We can have better natural colours than the dyer can produce by his highest art, if we grow the right sorts of plants, especially amongst the helichrysums, the acrocliniums, and the rhodanthes. I shall name the best of them. Eirst as to the cultivation. On this point I shall not say much. All the annual sorts, both of everlasting flowers and grasses, are best grown by sowing the seeds in light rich soil in March or April, and treating the plants in just the same way as asters ; that is, in brief, getting them strong by the middle of May, and then planting them out. But if this is not convenient, they may all be sown on a rich light sunny border, in the early part of April. Every patch should be tallied, and a bit of seed of every sort kept in reserve. About the middle of May sow again any that have not, by that time, come up. By this plan you will be likely to secure all the sorts on which you speculate. As for the greenhouse plants they require good cultivation. As the best of these is the Aphelexis, a practical word on that may be useful. It is a difficult plant to grow, too much or too little water being pretty certain death to it. The soil should be good turfy peat, and plenty of silver sand. The pots should be prepared with great care to insure perfect drainage. The plants must be potted firm, and with the collar slightly above the surface. Plenty of light and air are essential. The beautiful Phoeno- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 87 coma requires similar treatment. As for the greenhouse Statices, they require a soil half loam and half peat, and a warmer and closer part of the house will suit them than the two plants first mentioned would require. Next as to gathering the flowers. Take them in all possible ■ "'" At1),. A ik Y • AYKEATH OF EYERL VSTINGS AXD GKASSE?. stages ; but by far the largest proportion should be young and scarcely fully expanded, as they are sure to expand in the process of drying. To dry them, lay them on papers in an airy warm place safe from dust, and store them when dry in dry closets or drawers where dust is as nearly as possible unknown. The grasses may be S8 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. dried by simply laying them between folds of blotting-paper, or placing them between the pages of large heavy books. Remember " practice makes perfect ;" the beginner is sure to spoil a few ; never mind, there will be many good ones to make amends. As to mounting, the grasses must be used in their natural state ; but it is best to mount the flowers on wires. This is a nice proceeding ; but ladies generally acquire the art in haste. The finest steel wire is the best adapted to the purpose, and it is attached to the flower at the base, by merely thrusting it into the centre ; but the wire should have a few twists to make a sort of base to catch the flower, or, as I may say, for the base of the flower to rest on. As to modes of grouping, on the preceding page is a figure of a wreath formed of helichrysums and grasses, and filled in with green moss, the solid foundation, or ring of the wreath being formed of the wires on which the flowers are placed, twisted and twisted into a sort of rope, with the moss thickly entangled between them. The best flowers for this purpose are the following : — Helichrysums of all kinds ; more especially H. atrosanguineum nanum, and H. Borcssorum rex. All are half hardy annuals, to be raised on gentle heat, and planted out in May, or sown in the open ground in April. As they are so useful, it wrould be well to try all the sorts the seedsmen can supply. Acroclinium roseum. Sow in pots and pans in April, and place in cold frame, or sow in open border and risk it. Bhodanthe JUanglesi, JR. atrosanguineum, It. maculata, B. major. All half hardy annuals. Selipterum Sandfordi and H. eorymliferum require careful cul- ture. Sow, if possible, in February, and treat as perilla or lobelia. These are the least likely to succeed if sown in the open border in this country. They are so beautiful that they well repay a little extra care. Bolycohjmnia Stuarii. A quite hardy annual, but none the worse for being pushed forward under glass. AmmoMuvi (datum, is a perennial, but may be treated as an annual, as it is sure to be killed by a sharp frost. Treat it as half- hardy. Waitzia corymlosa, W. grandiflora, fine half-hardy annuals ; but of no use to beginners for winter wreaths. They must be started early to make sure of a good bloom. Xeranthemum annuum, X. album, X. caryophillioides, and X. pur- purea are fine hardy annuals, all of which may be sown in the open ground in April, They are not the most desirable, as their colours are apt to fade when dried, but this may be in some part prevented by drying them quickly in the dark, and in a very dry w_arm atmo- sphere. Try them in an oven when the fire is nearly out. ' As for Aphelexis, and Phcenocoma, and Statice, all the varieties known are jrood. 89 THE GAEDEN GUIDE. Bar— 2!iM8. Thee.— 50, Si, 41}. } jfecJK Bain. — l'i in. Wind— N. W..N.E. Gbeenhousb Flowees. — Acacia de- albatu, Lrummondi, and pubescens; Aza- lea sinensis and iudica vara. ; Acrophyl I it »t venosum ; Chorozema Later enciana; Ueut- zia gracilis ; Eriustemon pulcjiellum, Epa- oris exquisite and multiflora ; Habrotham- nus elegans ; Leschenaultia formosa ; 1'i, ),"ii, i spectabilis ; Sta.tice Molfordi; Tn mandra ericifolia hirsuta. Gaeden Flowees. — Wall Cress, Arabis alpina ; Aubrietia Campbelli, deltoides and purpurea; Marsh Maigold: Caltha palustris flore plena ; Barrenwort : Epi- medium versicolor and violaceum ; Helle- borus atrorubens; Myosotis montaiia ; Polyanthus Primula elatior vars. ; Saxi- fraya oppositifolia. The Weatheb. — A soft southern or western breeze rarely occurs in March, but when it does happen the charm is indescribable, for the glimmering of tender green and the songs of the birds gladden us beyond measure. Of late years March has come in like a lamb, and gone out like a lion, reversing the ancient order of things. We are pretty sure of storms about the 15th. Flower Garden. — All the planting of trees and shrubs left over from last month must be finished off the early part of this. If not already done, clear out shrub- beries by cutting away tjie dead wood, and raking up the leaves ; the latter if left to blow about, will make this lawn and walks untidy throughout the summer. Herba- ceous plants ought to have attention this month ; the borders should have a slight dressing of thoroughly decayed manure, and be carefully pricked over with a fork. Plants required to be increased may now be taken up and divided, and replanted ; where they are growing wild it is a good plan to take the whole lot up, manure and trench the border, and re-arrange them. These plants should have annual attention, and not be allowed to smother each other, as is generally the case, It is this neglect that has done so much towards bringing them into disrepute. Pinks, Picotecs, Carnations, Pansies, Hollyhocks, Phlox, and Pentstemons that have been preserved in cold frames during the winter, should be planted in their respective quarters, about the middle or end of the month, if the ground is in proper condition for their reception. All kinds of half-hardy and hard}' annuals for summer flowering must be sown as early this month as the state of giound will permit. In wet cold soils the sowing must be deferred until nest month, as the seeds run a risk of perishing thus early; mark the places where they are sown, and thin out immediately the plants are large enough to handle. Grass plots and verges should have their edges trimmed, and be brushed over with the scythe, and well rolled to get ready for the mowing machine. Roses may still be planted, but those planted at this season should have a good mulch of half-rotten dung to prevent the soil about the roots getting dried up. All the loses should he pruned about the third or fourth week of this month ; if done earlier a risk is run of having the first bloom injured, and probably destroyed. Greenhouse. — This is a trying time to the occupants of this structure, as the outbursts of bright sunshine are so geneially accompanied with cold, keen, drying winds, that it is impossible to ventilate freely enough to keep the temperature to its Bulbous Flowees.— Hyacinths ; Tu- lips; Polyanthus and Garden Narcissus ; Crocus; lxias; Sparaxis, and Tritonias; Fritillarix lmperiulis and grceca ; Iris reticulata; Snow flake, Leuc'ojum pulchel- lum ; Star of Bethlehem, Ornithoyahnu Arabicum; Scilla bifolia ; Amaryllis Duchesne de Cazes, and Eegina ; Lachenalia quo dri color ; Tritileia uriifora. Siove Flowers. — Begonia Ingramii and parvijlora ; Clerodendron Balfouri; Gardenia Fortunii; Franciscea conferti- Jlora ; Guzmannia picta; Imantophyllum miniatum; Ipomea liorsjulli ; Medinilla magnifica, Cypripedium caudatum ;* Den- drobium densijtorum* and speciosum;* Ly caste aromatica ;* Odontoglossum pul- cheUum;" Trichopilia suavis* " He that ministereth seed to the sower both minister bread for your food, and multiply yi ur seed sown, and increase the fruits of your righteousness." — 2 Cor. ix. 10. 90 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. proper height. Shading must he resorted to, or the plants in flower will soon lose their freshness and beauty. Air, however, must be freely admitted when the weather will admit of its being done, as nearly the wbole of the hard-wooded plants will now be making their growth, and unless they have plenty of air the young wood will want that firmness whicli is so essential to an abundance of bloom. Soft-wooded Heaths and Epacris should be cut down soon after they go out of flower ; they have then plenty of time to make new wood, and get it matured before autumn. Camel- lias growing out of shape should be pruned and placed in a nice genial growing atmosphere, and well syringed with tepid water to induce them to break well. Pelargoniums of all kinds that need a shift must have it at once, or not at all ; plants that have filled the pots with roots will be benefited by alternate waterings of weak manure water. Herbaceous calceolarias do better without liquid manure. Primulas and Cyclamens going out of flower must be placed in a light airy place to ripen their seed, if it is intended to save any. As we usually have during this month frosty nights, and bright days, the paths should be sprinkled early in the morning to counteract the dryness arising from the fire-heat by night and solar warmth by day. Shift all plants that need it as fast as they go out of flower. Plants coming from the frames, should have a smoking before they are brought into the greenhouse, as there are many plants now in bloom, and flowers of all kinds receive considerable injury from tobacco smoke. Plants brought from the forcing houses in bloom should have the advantage of a close, warm, shady corner until they get inured to the greenhouse temperature. Fuchsias should be shaken out, root pruned, and repotted ; cuttings put in last month will now be nicely rooted, and ready for potting off. Sow Balsams, Cockscombs, Phlox Drummondi, and other annuals for summer decoration. Pot off early sown plants. Stove. — Shading must now be resorted to during bright flashes of sunshine, as it is impossible to give sufficient air to keep the temperature down to its proper level without injuring the plants. Climbers will now be in full growth, therefore they must receive attention. Amaryllis going out of flower should be placed on a light, airy shelf, and properly attended to with water, to enable the bulbs to get thoroughly matured. Set to work another batch of Achimines and Gloxinias ; shift on those started early. Repot Begonias, Gloriosas, Luculias, Rondoletias, and Ixoras, that have been cut back. Those that are about to flower must be left alone until their beauty is past. Start Clerodendrons, Stephanotis, Cissus, Dipladenias, etc. ; all will start quicker and stronger if the pots are partly plunged, or set upon a gentle bottom-heat. Water cautiously at first. Ferns will soon be starting into growth ; those requiring a shift must have it at once. Where the plants are already in large pots, and it is not considered desirable to increase the size, reduce the ball two or three inches all round, and cut a piece off the bottom, and repot in the same size again ; keep close and shady for a week or so after doing this. Propagate all kinds of hard-wooded plants as soon as the young growth is about half ripe. Euphorbias, Justicias, Poinsettias, and other plants just done flowering should be cut back, and after making an inch or so of young growth repotted. To maintain a moist growing atmosphere sprinkle the paths and walls twice a-day, and give the plants a good syring- ing overhead once, with the exception of those in flower, which must be kept dry. Orchids starting into growth must be repotted at once. Use plenty of crocks to insure the drainage being perfect. Throw plenty of water on the floor, but the plants must not be sprinkled overhead yet. Shade when necessary to prevent the foliage burning. The external air is very cold just now, therefore what little is admitted should pass over the hot-water pipes before coming in contact with the plants. Temperature of stove 60° to 65° by night, with a rise of ten degrees by day. Kitchen Garden. — This is the most important season in the whole year in this department, for the kitchen supplies are ruled throughout the whole year by the way the operations are conducted now. Continue to turn up every quarter directly it becomes vacant. In light warm soils get in the main crops of potatoes towards the end of the month. In cold damp soils, the middle of next month will be preferable. Sow and make new beds of Asparagus. Sow for main crops Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cardoons, Carrots, Cauliflowers, Chervil, Leeks, Lettuce, Onions, Parsley, Parsnips, Peas, Radishes, Savoys, Scorzonera, Spinach, and Turnips. Plant Globe and Jerusalem Artichokes ; clear the former of dead leaves and protecting material. Make fresh plantations of Horse-radish, Rhubarb, and Shallots if not THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 91 already done. Pot herbs may now be sown and propagated by divisions, offsets and slips, and fresh beds planted. The soil should be in a dry workable condition when the various crops are sown and planted; it is far better to wait a few days than to tread upon the ground when in a wet pasty condition. Fruit Garden.— Pruning and training must be completed, and grafting set about in earnest. Cuttings of Gooseberries and Currants may still be put in with every reasonable chance of success. Burn all the prunings of trees and the clip- pings of hedges, for they only litter up the place, and the ashes are first rate f->r spreading over the onion beds. Raspberry quarters must not be pricked over in the same way as the other bush fruits, but must have a good mulch instead. "Wall trees coming into bloom must be protected. Nets, tiffany, or fir branches can be used for protecting purposes ; the first two are the best. Pits and Frames. — Auriculas, Pansies, Carnations, and others of the same class, must have plenty of air, for it ruins them to be kept in a close atmosphere. Propagate as fast as possible all kinds of bedding plants, more particularly Ver- benas, Lobelias, Iresene, Heliotropes, and Petunias. Encourage the stock plants, and top and pot off those already struck. Bedding Calceolarias should be turned out into a bed of rich soil, about four inches apart, and covered with old light straw hurdles, or mats. They will do better when planted out, treated this way, than they ■will if the roots are cramped in pots. Sow Amarauthus melancholicus, Phlox Drum- mondi, and Tagetes signata pumila, for bedding. In cold frame sow Asters, Stocks, and Larkspurs. Pot off those sown early, for they soon get ruined if allowed to remain long crowded together. Forcing. — Air-giving must be attended to with care during the whole of this month, in all the departments. We have such sudden changes, that unless it is attended to at the right moment, a lot of mischief is soon done. Sow seed of Cucumbers for summer crops ; stop and train those in bearing. Recently planted ones, as the roots show through the soil, should be earthed up with fresh soil. Pines in fruit to have a bottom heat of 85°, with a top heat of from 75° to 85", according to the weather. Syringe the surface of the bed, walls, and paths, but do not allow the water to run into the hearts. Succession plants and suckers should have a general potting this month, and a renewal of the tan bed, etc. More water will now be required. Vines in flower must have rather a drier atmosphere, but not so parching as is generally advised. Disbud, train, and thin out the bunches as required. After the fruit is set keep a thoroughly moist atmosphere, and paint the pipes with sulphur to prevent red spider making its appearance. Slightly increase the temperature, and stop one or two eyes beyond the bunch. Figs must have plenty of water at the root and syring- ing over head, cut off suckers, and pinch over-luxuriant shootes. Peaches and Nectarines as they go out of bloom must be well syringed to clear them of the dead flowers ; also raise the temperature to 50°. Disbub and thin the fruit a few at a time. Plums and Cherries will require plenty of air, and moisture at the root. Strawberries as they begin to colour should have less water, and be exposed more freely to the light and air. Sow Melon seed and plant out as soon as strong enough, see that the fermenting materials are in a nice sweet condition. Club in the Brassica Tribe. — In light soils this is an intolerable pest, and subjects many gardeners to great inconvenience. In strong, retentive soils it very rarely intrudes. It is excessively annoying, after good plantations of broccoli' Brussels sprouts, kail, collards, etc., for the winter and spring have been planted six weeks or two months to find their progress arrested, and the plants drooping and dying, especially should the season be getting late for planting these crops. Now I am one of those who believe that for every evil there is an antidote ; and the one that I have proved to be efficacious in preventing the club is to make a puddle of strong clay, using or working up the clay into a puddle with liquid manure, adding a handful or two of soot ; this should be well stirred and incorporated, and of good consistency, so that when the roots of the plants are drawn through it they will be as it were encased or covered as with mortar. If the plants are (after the material has set or become somewhat firm) drawn through the puddle two or three times successively, so much the better. I have tried this remedy on soils very subject to produce club with the most satisfactory results. Homo Veritas. Lee, Kent. 92 «^^^^^5iEER-P0ST FOR PURCHASERS 6F PLMS, SEEOS, ETC. A SELECTION OF KITCHEN-GARDEN SEEDS AND ROOTS. Asparagus. — There is but one sort, no matter under what name it is offered. Broad Beans. — Mazagan for the first crop ; Heck's Green Gem and Royal Dwarf Cluster 1- for growing in frames and pots ; Common Long-pod for a great crop ; Taylor's Broad sort for finest quality ; Monarch for exhibition. .Beef.— Nutting's Dwarf Red, Stuart and Mein's Short-top. For the flower-garden, Osborn's Dark, and Barr and Sugden's New Crimson. Brussels Sprouts. — Roseberry, Scrymger's Giant. Borecole. — Common Green Scotch is fine ; Gibbs's Parsley-curled is extremely handsome ; Cottagers' Kale, very hardy and productive ; Albert Sprouts come in when other sorts are scarce. Broccoli. — For a succession, Snow's Winter White, Early Penzance, Beck's Dwarf White, Hammond's Imperial Hardy, Cattell's Eclipse, Walcheren. Cauliflower. — London White, Asiatic. Carrot. — For frames, French Short Horn ; for early sowing on slopes, Common Scarlet Shoit Horn ; for main crop, Surrey ; for shallow soils, James's Intermediate ; for a great crop, Altringham. Callage. — Little Pixie and Rosette Colewort are the best to sow at all seasons, and to plant anywhere, to cut any size ; the best for long standing and heavy crops are Enfield Market, Nonpareil, and Cattell's Reliance. Celery. — Ivery's Nonsuch, Red ; Turner's Incomparable White, for fine quality ; for large crops take Manchester Red and Cole's Crystal White. Cucumber. — One of the best for winter and early spring use is Rollisson's Tele- graph ; for general usefulness, Cuthill's Black Spine and Hamilton's Market Favourite ; for exhibition, Kirklee's Hall Defiance, Hamilton's Invincible, Model of Perfection, and Abbey's Garden Prize. Capsicum. — Long Red and Long Yellow are the two most useful. A pretty group of six for exhibition are Long Red, Long Yellow, Red Giant, Green Giant, Yellow Giant, and Tomato-shaped Red. Endive. — Green Curled, White Batavian, and New Moss-curled. Kidney Beans. — For pot culture the best are Fulmer's Forcing and Newington Wonder ; for main crop, Newington Wonder, Negro, and Red Speckled. The best Runners are common Scarlet and White Dutch. Leek. — Musselburgh, Ay ton Castle. Lettuce. — For autumn sowing to cut in winter and spring, Hammersmith and Brown Cos ; for summer use, Tom Thumb Cabbage, Ne Plus Ultra Cabbage, Bath Cos, Sugar-loaf Cos. Melon. — For pot culture, Sutton's Tom Thumb and Turner's Scarlet Gem ; for frame and house culture, The Sultan, Ward's Scarlet Flesh, Trentham Hybrid, Cuthill's Scarlet ; for size, Ciiencester Favourite must take the lead. Onion. — For frames and warm slopes, also for pickling. Early Nocera, Paris Silver Skin ; main crop for storing, Deptford, James's Keeping, Bedfordshire Champion ; for exhibition, White Spanish, Trebons, Giant Madeira, Red and White Tripoli, Blood Red, Globe Tripoli. Parsnips. — Hollow Crown. Feas. — First and second early, Sutton's Ringleader, Sangster's No. 1, Advancer (rather tender in constitution, but invaluable), Nelson's Vanguard, Paradise Marrow ; main crop and long gathering, Fortyfold, McLean's Wonderful, Veitch's Perfection, Ne Plus Ultra, British Queen ; for pot culture, Little Gem, Tom Thumb. Parsley. — Dickson's Treble-curled and anybody's Imperial. Radish. — For frames, Early Forcing Turnip (red and white), Wood's Early THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 93 Frame ; for general use, Beck's Scarlet Short Top, Scarlet Olive-shaped, White Olive-shaped. Rhubarb.— Dancer's Early Scarlet, Myatt's Victoria, Mitchell's Royal Albert. Spinach. — All the sorts in cultivation are good, but the most delicious for lovers of spinach are Round-seeded, for sowing in spring, and Prickly-seeded, for sovvino- in summer and autumn. Spinach Beet is very productive, and lasts the whole season. New Zealand Spinach is a fine vegetable for hot dry soils. Lee's Giant Orach is a coarse but useful kind. Turnip.— To sow in spring, Early White Strap-leaved, Short Top Six-weeks, Polly's Nonsuch ; to sow in summer, American Stone, Beck's Golden Stone, and White Dutch; to sow in autumn, jersey Navet, Green Top Six- weeks, Chirk Castle. Potatoes. — Myatt's Ashleaf, Haigh's Kidney, Baron's Perfection, Flour-ball, Milky White, Wellington, Paterson's Victoria, Sutton's Berkshire Kidney. Vegetable Marrow. — The most delicate and elegant is Hibberd's Prolific ; the best for cottage gardens is Large Cream ; a good but ugly sort is Prince Albert. THE BEST FUCHSIAS OF 1868. Model (Banks).— The best single dark Fuchsia out. Striata Perfecta (Banks). — A fine striped flower, showy and vigorous. Try me 0 (Banks). — A perfect little gem, and the best single dark for small conservatories, for beds, and for market. Glowworm (Banks). — New colour, like Magenta satin, rather thin in texture. Lord Derby (Banks). — Surpasses Enoch Arden.. Starlight (Bull). — The best light Fuchsia in cultivation. Lustre (Bull). — White sepals, and vivid crimson corolla; a grand exhibition variety. Favourite (Bull). — Cup-shaped white corolla, scarlet sepals ; a lovely stnslll- growing variety. White Perfection (E. G. Henderson). — Sepals, white ; corolla, magenta-colouieJ. The finest Fuchsia of its class. Blue Boy (Turner). — A truly gorgeous double flower, the corolla a true cobalt blue. Jolly (Felton and Holliday). — An improvement on Fair Oriana. Striped Unique (G. Smith). — Bold and showy, with scarlet sepals, and double purple corolla ; one of the finest of its class. NEW PLANTS. lllISTOLOCHIA FLORIBUNDA, Many -flowered Birihwort (Dlllust. Mort., t. 568). — A beautiful Brazilian species, of comparatively small growth. The leaves are cordate, the flowers have a pale green tube and a two-lobed limb, richly blotched with maroon upon a ground of deep pink. Triteleia porrifolia (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 990).— Liliacea?. A pretty little bulbous plant, lately re-introduced from Chili. The bulb is oblong, and the leaves resemble those of the chives. The flower-stalks average a foot in height, and the campanulate-shaped flowers are light blue. Odontoglossum cristatcm (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 101-1).— Orchidaceae. Several good varieties of this fine odontoglot have been lately introduced by M. Linden. Canaria, sepals and petals canary yellow, with a blotch of purple on each, and white lip. Argus, bright yellow, speckled with purple. Dayanum, has yellow flowers, spotted with purple like the species, but rather different in shape. Lilium Wilsoni.— Liliaceae. This at first was considered a variety of Thun- bergianum, but M. Leichtlin, who is a great authority on lilies, suggests that as it differs so considerably from the true Thunberghnum, it should bear the name of Wilsoni. It grows from three to four feet high, has smooth, lanceolate acute leaves, and bears a great branched umbel of flowers, which are large, of a reddish-orange colour, dotted with dark spots, and have a golden band down each segment. 94 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. L.ELIA purpubata, var. Nelisii (L'llhist. Sort., t. 569). — A splendid variety with sepals and petals of a delicate blush colour, the lip deep crimson, shading to maroon. New Fuchsias (L'lllust. Sort., t. 570).— Continental varieties, with double flowers, showy, but too much in the coarse heavy style of the present day. Albert Coene has a short spreading corolla of a deep purple colour, and ungraceful sepals of a brilliant deep red. Francois de Yos has a large bell-shaped corolla, purple, with stripes of deep red, and carmine red sepals. Seavte de Gentbrugge is in the style of King of the Doubles, a massive showy flower, the corolla deep purple, the sepals deep coral red. Liriodendron tulipiferum, var. foliis aureo-pictis, Tulip-tree, with golden- striped leaves {L'lllust. Sort., p. 571). — A richly-variegated variety of a well- known'tree. Dendrobium microglaphys (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 1014). — An introduction from Borneo by Messrs. Low, in the way of D. aduncum. It grows about nine inches high, and the flowers are produced in racemes, which are of a whitish colour, the lip being striped with purple. Spir/Ea palmata, Palmate -leaved Spircea (Floral World, March, 1869). — The best of the hardy herbaceous spmeas. Leaves palmate, flowers rich crimson, a grand border plant. Miltonia spectabilis, var. virgin alis (L'lllust. Hort., t. 573). — A white variety, with purple spotted lip. Placea grandiplora (L Illitst. Sort., t. 574). — A beautiful amaryllid from Chili ; the bulb is small, dark-coloured, and oval, the flowers about the same size as those of Gladiolus ramosus ; they are whitish, with rich bright stripes of deep red. An elegant greenhouse plant. Areca Baueri (L'lllust. Sort., t. 575). — An elegant palm from Norfolk Island. The fronds are pinnatifid, remotely resembling those of Cycas revoluta. An elegant stove plant. Gymnogramma laucheana, var. gigaxtea (L'lllust. Sort., t. 576). — A coarse figure of a fine fern. Rose (H.P.) Monsieur Jotjrneaux (Marest etfils) (L'lllust. Eort., p. 577). This appears to be a good rose in the way of Eveque des Nismes, but with more substance and stouter wood. Brassia Lawkenciana, var. longissima (Bot. Mag., t. 5748). — In this variety of a well-known orchid the lateral sepals are fully seven inches long, of a deep oraDge colour, with a few purple blotches. HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS. Royal Botanic Society.- — The exhibitions of this Society for this season are as follows :— Spring Flowers, March 23 and 24, April 17, April 2S ; Plants, Flowers, and Fruits, May 19 and 20, June 30, and July 1. Royal Horticultural Society. — The exhibitions at South Kensington this year will be as follows : — Show of Hyacinths and Spring Flowers, March 13. The prizes offered by the principal bulb-growers in Holland, which, in the aggregate, amount to £50, will be competed for at this meeting. April 17, Show of Roses. May 8, Show of Early Azaleas. A Show of Zonal Pelargoniums will be held in May, at which subscription prizes by the growers of these plants will be competed for. June 2 and 3, Grand Summer Show ; June 15, Special Prize Show ; June 29, Great Rose Show. A grand summer exhibition of flowering plants and fruits will be held at Manchester in July at the same time as, and adjoining the Royal Agricul- tural Society's Show. The Fruit and Floral Committees are held the first and third Tuesday in each month up to October inclusive, and Nov. 16 and Dec. 22. The Annual Meeting of the Society was held on Tuesday, Feb. 9. The repcrt on the whole was satisfactory, but the balance-sheet unfortunately exhibited a deficiency of £1179 5s. lOd. H.S.H. Prince Teck, Lord Londesborough, and Rev. J. Dix were unanimously elected to fill the vacancies in the Council, and the whole of the office-bearers were re-elected. 95 TO COEEESPONDENTS. Propagating Gymnogrammas. — J. J. C. — These beautiful ferns, commonly known as the " gold and silver ferns," are propagated by means of the seed or spores from the back or under surface of the fully-developed fronds. The young plants generally come up very plentifully in stoves where a few old plants are grown ; they are also easily raised artificially. Prepare an ordinary seed-pan by filling it half full of broken crocks ; when this is done, fill the remaining half to about an inch above the surface with fibry peat and silver sand. The peat should be chopped up rather fine but not sifted, as it is desirable that the surface of the soil be rather rough. The soil must be filled in rather firm, and be rather the highest in the centre of the pan ; the soil should then be nicely moistened and the seed sown. The last-mentioned operation is performed by shaking the fronds over the soil; and, to assist the dispersion of the spores, the hand may be drawn lightly up the underside of the frond. It is much better to sow the spores direct from the fronds, than to make an attempt to gather it like the seeds of flowering plants. After the sowing is completed, cover the pan with a bellglass, and p'ace it in a shady corner of the stove. The soil must not be kept too wet, but when it requires water the pans should be stood in a vessel of water until the soil is soaked through ; when they are watered overhead in the usual way, the water is apt to wash the spores and young plants out of their proper places, besides running the risk of getting smothered with the soil. As the young plants begin to grow, the glass should be tilted a little at first, and then gradually increased until it can be taken away altogether and the plants potted off ; this must be done so that the roots are not damaged, and it will be advisable to keep them close for a few days until established, and then treat in the usual way. Latania Borbonica. — J. J. C— The only place that you can get this palm, at the price named at page 212 of last year's volume, is at Verschaffelt's, Ghent, Belgium. We find it catalogued at a franc each, which is within a penny of what you would have to give for a single plant of Tom Thumb in the ordinary way, though at bedding-out time you can get it at half-a-crown a dozen. Taking the plants singly, you will see the writer of the article referred to was sufficiently near the mark for all practical purposes. It is to be regretted that the English houses do not go into the palm business more extensively, and at prices similar to those on the continent. Propagating the Variegated Vine.— J. J. C. — This beautiful plant can be propagated by means of cuttings. Cut last year's growth up into lengths of six or nine inches each, and insert them in a row at the foot of a south wall or on a sheltered border. Gloxinias. — E. M. — The leaf enclosed was apparently that of one of the gloxinias, which, it is impossible for us to say. The plants ought to be quite at rest now, but as they are flowering, they should have a temperature of 55° or 60° until they go out of flower. A rest of two or three months will be sufficient. If you are anxious to get them to flower at their proper time next year, keep them grow- ing until the end of the summer, and then let them go dry until next January. If they are started early in the new year, they will be capital for early flowering. Fuchsia Management. — G. H. W., Middlesex. — This is a capital time for taking these in hand for this season's blooming. You have a few old plants and are desirous of knowing what to do with them. In the first place they must be pruned into shape and started : we prefer cutting the whole of the last year's wood back to a couple of oyes, unless for the sake of the shape of any of the plants it may be necessary to leave them longer. The young shoots produced at the base of the wood are, generally speaking, much stronger than those produced at the tips : when the pruning is finished, if you can find room stand the plants in the little vinery that you have just started. The moist atmosphere and syringing required for the vines will suit the fuchsias, which will soon begin to break strongly. Sufficient water must be applied to the roots to keep the soil just moist and no more. Directly the young shoots are about an inch long, take the plants out of the pots, remove nearly the whole of the soil, trim the roots and repot in a smaller-sized pot, and replace in the vinery again until established. A good compost may be prepared by mixing two parts of good turfy loam, one part peat, and a part composed of equal quantities of rotten dung 96 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. and leaf-mould. The whole should be chopped up roughly with a sixth part of sharp silver sand; cocoa-nut refuse makes a capital substitute for leaf-mould. After this stage the young shoots must be regularly stopped to form handsome specimens, and the watering not neglected. During the whole season of growth it will be well to give them sufficient shade to prevent the foliage being scorched, but not dense enough to draw the growths up weak and lanky. Discontinue stopping about six weeks before you want them to be in bloom, but keep the syringe at work until such time as they are in flower. Weak liquid manure at every alternate watering after the pots get filled with roots will be beneficial in promoting a vigorous growth, and to assist the plants when in flower : what re-potting requires to be done after the first shift depends entirely upon what size the plants are wanted. . As a word of caution we may say, that it is not well to let them get pot-bound before repotting. If you strike a few of the young shoots as soon as long enough, and grow on as advised for old plants, you will have some nice plants to succeed the older ones. If you are obliged to keep your old plants in the greenhouse, give them a warm corner ; they will do very well in the greenhouse, but will not bloom so early as those grown in a house with the aid of a little fire-heat. Follow our directions, and you will have no diffi- culty in growing good specimens. Fern for the Dinner-table. — Miss E. — Lomaria gibba is about the best fern known for dinner-table decoration, as the plants are so easily grown that there is but little difficulty in getting match plants when required. They do best grown in an intermediate house through the winter ; a greenhouse does capitally well during the summer, but it is scarcely warm enough at other times. Pot in two parts peat and one part fibrv loam, with a sprinkling of silver sand and good drainage. This fern is readily increased by spores. L. ciliata, Adiantum cuneatum, A. formosum, Pteris serrulata, also make good table plants. Of British kinds, Athyrium iilix-femina? Ficldi is one of the best for this sort of work. Cabbages and Stocks damping off. — An Amateur writes to say that he has a fine lot of young cabbage and cauliflower plants just come up, but they are beginning to damp off. Last year, he says, he lost the greater part of the plants of these vege- tables which were sown early, and also a large portion of the earliest batch of stocks, notwithstanding his watering them carefully overhead. The last four words explain the cause. Young seedling plants of this class ought not to have a drop of water touch the foliage or stems from the time of their appearance above ground until they are pricked out into the nursery-bed. The best way to water seedlings at this season is to immerse the seed-pans in a vessel of water deep enough to reach within an inch of the rim, and as soon as the water shows through the surface-soil, take them oat. If you follow this plan and only give sufficient to keep the soil moist, you will not be troubled with the plants damping off : we have acted upon it for several years past with the best results. The water must not be allowed to soak through and stand on the surface, or you will probably lose every plant. Sowing Lobelia Speciosa. — Beta. — This should be sown at once in a gentle warmth, and kept close to the glass after it makes its appearance above ground. Water carefully or the young plants soon damp off, especially if the seed is sown thick : prick off into pans when large enough, and then pot] off into small GO's. Plants raised from seed sown towards the end of this month and in March, grow straggling for some time after they are planted out, and are a long time coming into flower. October is the best time for sowing Lobelias, and then, if the strain is good, the plants will be scarcely distinguishable from those raised from cuttings. Melons. — A. D. — Melons can be grown well enough in a frame heated with a flue, but you ought to have a bed of manure for bottom-heat, as the flue will only supply top-heat. The heat from the flue is much drier than from a hot bed ; there- fore, a sharper look-out must be kept for red spider. We have used water from a galvanized iron tank without any injury to the plants. You need have no fear about using it. The white paint, if made with good white lead, or Carson's Anti- Corrosion Paint, will be the best you can have for the roof of your greenhouse. The last is the cheapest and best for outdoor work. Brunsvigia Josephine not Flowering. — A Cottage Gardener. — We expect you keep your plant always growing. Keep it quite dry during the resting season. Shift into a larger pot and fresh soil when it starts into growth. Free vigorous growth, and a thorough season of rest, are essential to success. Your best plan to dispose of the stoves will be to advertise them in a gardening periodical. N E R A E x n r: i E N S I s. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. APRIL, 1869. GESNEBAS. WITH FIGUKE OF GESXERA EXOXIEXS1S. UCH may be said in praise of the genus of plants to which our attention is directed by the subject selected for illustration. They combine in an interesting manner beautiful leaves with beautiful flowers, attractions which are not commonly combined in the same plant. One of the great merits of these plants is their flowering at a time when our houses are rather deficient of bright sparkling flowers ; and by a little management in starting the bulbs, a succession of flowering plants can be obtained throughout the whole of the winter. This is no small recommendation, when we take into account their adaptability for table decoration. JSTo other plant, or class of plants, can be grown to a more convenient size or shape than these, and their foliage and flowers show to great advantage under artificial light. The cultural details will show, as we proceed, that to do justice, and to have Gesneras in beauty throughout the winter, the assistance of a cool stove or warm intermediate house is requisite. It will be found that plants kept in an ordinary greenhouse after the end of September will refuse to open their flower-buds ; perhaps, indeed, the buds may fall, while the leaves lose their lustre. With the aid of an ordinaiy hotbed in which early cucumbers are grown, and a greenhouse, a very creditable display may be had through the months of August and September. Supposing a warm house at hand, three batches of bulbs should be potted, one each on the first of January and the first of the two following months. We name these dates to indicate that an interval of a month (or so) should occur between the potting of the several batches of bulbs. We will describe the management of the first lot, which will serve for all the rest. A very important point is to have good soil in which to pot them, for without that it is impossible to induce the plants to grow with any degree of vigour. Eor the first potting, loam, leaf- vol. iv. — no. iv. 7 98 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. mould, peat, and silver sand must be used, in equal quantities, and chopped up fine, without being sifted. For subsequent shifts, use silky loam, full of fibre, leaf-mould, and peat, in equal proportions. A small quantity of sand must be used, but the exact quantity must be regulated by the composition of the loam and peat ; that in which sand already exists in large quantities will, as a matter of course, require considerably less than others in which it is not to be found. To sift the mixture is to spoil it ; every particle of fibre must be preserved, and, it may be as well to add, that very little success can be expected if close compact stuff is used. It should be nicely chopped up, and mixed together, and then it will be ready for use. If the peat is of a sour or unctuous nature, it will be best not to use it, but increase the leaf-mould and sand, or add a little cocoa-nut fibre refuse, which will act as a capital mechanical agent in giving free passage to the roots, and providing a free escape for the water. It should not bear a greater proportion to the loam and leaf-mould than one-fifth part. The soil being ready, the bulbs must be carefully shaken out of the old soil, and potted in small 60's, growing point upwards ; the tips just covered with soil, and the pots plunged in a bottom-heat of about 70°, a few degrees more or less will not make much difference. Until the young plants are nicely up, the soil must be kept just moist; for to keep it soaked with water at this stage, would simply make it too sour for the roots to take kindly to it. When these pots are nicely filled with roots, and the plants have made three or four leaves each, they should be shifted into 48's, and as these get filled with roots, into 24's, which size will be quite large enough to flower them in. Plants intended for table decoration must be kept in the 48's, or, at the most, transferred to 32's, and assisted with weak manure-water at about every third watering. The drainage in all cases must be perfect. After they are nicely rooted in the 48's, the bottom-heat can be dispensed with, or, if not convenient, they need not have that assistance. When once the young growth is well above the surface, air-giving must be regulated by the weather and the time of year ; the plants will not stand a full exposure to its influence. On the other hand, they must not be kept too close, but have just sufficient to keep them stocky and well proportioned. Like other woolly- leaved subjects, these will not stand frequent syringing overhead, therefore the atmosphere of the house must be sufficiently charged with humidity to keep down red spider and thrip, without the aid of the syringe. For the first lot a vinery at work is a capital place until the grapes begin to colour. The weather by that time will be getting warm, and the plants can be transferred to the greenhouse to flower. Later batches must be kept in a warm house altogether, though they will not require much artificial heat during the summer months. As they finish flowering the supply of water must be diminished gradually, until the need for it ceases altogether. As the foliage and stems die away, lay the pots on their sides, in a tem- perature of 40° or 50°, where they can remain until the time arrives for starting again. The bulbs can be taken out of the soil, and kept in small pots or paper bags, full of sand, and placed in a warm cup- THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 99 board ; leaving them in the soil is, however, preferable. During the season of growth begin with 503, and as they progress increase the heat to 70°, or higher, in bright sunny weather. It is not desirable to grow a very large collection. Half a dozen sorts will be quite sufficient for ordinary purposes ; but, for the benefit of those of our readers who prefer more than that number, we will name a dozen, which wall include the best at present in cultivation. In the front rank we must place Mxoniensis, the subject of our plate. This is a hybrid, raised at the Exeter Nurseries from G. zebrina and 0. refulgens. Alba lutescens grandijiora. — Large, delicate, cream-coloured flowers. Cerise d'or. — Cerise and yellow. Cinnabarina. — ■ Bright vermilion, yellow throat ; handsome foliage. Donckelaarii. — Pine scarlet. G. purpurea macrantlia. — Scarlet, light throat ; green velvety foliage. Lutea punctissima. — Beautiful bright yellow, spotted with ver- milion. Charles Maes. — Bright carmine ; throat golden-yellow, spotted with carmine. Son. Mrs. Fox Stranrjways. — Bright buff, or nankeen, slightly flushed with red ; handsome foliage. Madame Van Houtte. — Bright rose tube; white lobes, striped and spotted with carmine. Refulgens. — Orange-scarlet, yellow throat ; rich crimson velvety foliage. Zebrina splendens. — Bright scarlet; throat yellow, beautifully spotted with red. RAISING NEW VAEIETIES OF ZONAL GERANIUMS. Chapter II. |0 obtain good seed you must have good flowers to begin with. Tou may take choice of two plans : you may save your seed as it comes, and make a sheer risk of what it will produce ; or you may fertilize artificially, and, to a very great extent, determine beforehand what sort of flowers you will have. In either case the grower of seedlings should not have one inferior sort in the garden, for the pollen of inferior sorts is usually very potent, and it travels and accomplishes its work of fertilizing with a persistency characteristic of the wilder forms of vegetation, to which it approximates in character. Let us suppose an amateur wishes to begin properly. Then I should advise him to purchase a small collection, such as the following : — Zosals.— Leonidas, James Crute, Richard Headley, Dr. McDon- 100 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. nell, Hector, White Perfection, Surpass Beauty of Suresne, Herald of Spring, Eugenie Mezard, Shirley Hibberd, Amelina Grisau, Jean Sisley, Madame Werle, Tintoret, Thomas. Moore, Mrs. Spencer, Gloire of Corbeny, Queen of Beauties. Nosegays are scarcely to be desired on theoretical grounds, because of their probable tendency to influence the broad-petalled race for the worst. But, practically, I have never found any difficulty in raising broad-petalled varieties of the finest character from seed grown in a careful manner, though we have always about a hundred sorts of nosegays in the garden. The following are the best for producing seed worth saving: — Lady Constance Grosvenor, Rose Rendatler, Duchess of Sutherland, Duchess, Indian Yellow, Lord Palmerston, Amy Hogg, Emperor of Nosegays, Le Grand, "YValtham Seedling, Pink Stella, The Sultan. Variegated. — Daybreak, Flower of Spring, Silver Chain, Variegated Stella, Rosetta, Oriana Improved. Golden-leaved. — Dr. Primrose, Golden Chain, Golden Banner, Aureum. Bronze Zonals. — Duke of Edinburgh, Edward George Hen- derson, Egyptian Queen, Luna, Beauty of Oulton, Kentish Hero. Gold Zonals. — Jetty Lacy, Sophia Dumaresque, Lucy Grieve, L'Empereur, Miss Watson, Ettie Beale, Achievement, Ealing Rival. Silver Zonals. — Banshee, Caroline Longfield, Imperatrice Eugenie, Italia Unita, Princess of Wales, Miss Burdett Coutts. To the experienced cultivator the above list will appear too restricted. To such an one my advice is, "Add to it as many as you please. I am acquainted with at least fifty sorts that might be added with advantage." To the beginner it will prove to be a safe and a good list, and my advice to all who have not well studied the subject is to follow the list as closely as means will allow. Omit from it any sorts you cannot afford (some of them will cost from twenty to sixty shillings each), but do not add one, just for fear you should add a bad one as to form of leaf or flower, or breeding capa- bility. I have prepared the list with a view to the interests of the breeder solely, and it comprises plenty of splendid sorts for the garden, so there is no real need for risking the quality of the future stock for the sake of some old favourites which you imagine you cannot do without. I can fancy some of our friends crying out, " What, may I not grow Mrs. Pollock ? " To which I reply, " No ;" because in colour it is a great way surpassed, and in form of leaf it is objectionable, having a sharp central lobe that always comes out, more or less, in the progeny. As the actual business of hybridizing cannot be commenced for some time to come, I may as well stop here. This is a good time to form a collection, and the foregoing list will suit well for those who want a few of the best varieties only, without reference to breeding. At all events, if seed be saved from them indiscriminately, some good seedlings may be raised. Buy the plants, therefore, and shift them at once to larger pots, to give them a chance of growing freely, and in due time I will say something about crossing, and the results to be expected from certain modes of procedure. S. H. 101 THE CULTIVATION OP THE PINEAPPLE. In Two Chapters. — No. I. BY JAMES BARNES, Head Gardener to Lady Kolle, Bicton. OME young gardeners have an idea that we old pine- growers are stored with strange secrets, and when they see our well-finished pines on the exhibition table, a pang of envy sometimes possesses them, instead of a passion of emulation. I must be now one of the oldest pine-growers in the country, and if I testify that in the course of my time pine-growing has undergone great changes, it will be some- thing towards dispelling the almost unpardonable notion, that there are secrets to be learnt, or that we who have led the way in improve- ment have any desire to carry with us our knowledge to the grave. No, no ; I can call to mind the time when annual disrooting was practised, and shading was considered essential, and powerful stimu- lants were employed, in the hope thereby of counteracting the destructive practices that were prompted by ignorance, but which only added to the evil it was intended to remedy. Truly, the times change, and we change with them. But, my young friends, remember, plants do not change ; the constitution of the pine is the same now as when it first came to these shores, and if we are to grow it, we must know something about that constitution and its requirements. When I have taken the principal prizes for finished pines, at such meetings as those at Regent's Park, my friends have pressed me to tell them something of my practice, and I have said just what I say now to you. Success in pine-growing can only be accomplished by adapting the cultivation to the natural requirements of the plant. "Well, you ask, what are those natural requirements ? Well, read some good books of travel, or some trustworthy account of the pro- ducts of the West Indies, and you will learn that the pine grows on sandy slopes, in the most intense sunshine that, perhaps, anywhere falls upon this bonny world. There, my young friend, is the key to your success, if you can see it. The pine is not at all particular as to soil. The stuff found best in practice is a good surface loam, without any manure. Pines from these gardens that have taken prizes over the heads of some of the best growers in the country, were grown in nothing stronger than turfy loam, with a little charcoal and soot. People who employ stimulants do sometimes succeed in obtaining large fruits, and with even well-coloured pips ; but, alas ! if the fruit is as black as ink in the centre, of what value is it ? I always select my soil from some spot on the common where the loam is pretty stiff, and during the long days of summer, mowing off with an old scythe, the furze, heath, and other coarse vegetation, if it be too long. I then chop it np into sods, about two inches thick, with a long mattock, let it lie to dry for a few days, when it is carted home and placed in the soil 102 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. yard, there to be stacked in an airy sort of way on a rough wooden basis, to prevent fermentation, the breeding of fungi, etc. As to the house for pines, nothing is so good as a span-roofed pit, with hot-air chamber, and over it plunging material, and pipes above for top-heat. Provision must be made for an abundant supply of atmospheric moisture, but it must be at the command of the culti- vator to have much or little of this at will. In the case of an amateur intending to grow pines, the only safe course, as to heating, would be to put the matter into the hands of an experienced horti- cultural engineer. We do wonders with leaves, and, indeed, could not well do without them, with our extensive range of pits, but it ia not in every place leaves are so abundant as here. Our Editor was much amused one cold day in early spring, as he walked over the great beds of leaves which occupy the spaces between the pits all winter, and saw our plants all healthy and vigorous, close to the glass at his feet, and he twitted me abuut having kept this extensive use of leaves too much to myself. But really it never occurred to me to mention it until I met with his playful rebuke. As respects propagation, suckers are the best, though crowns were formerly most used. The suckers make fruiting plants the soonest, and generally give better fruit. Of course, in the case of crowns from rare or new kinds, or unusually hue fruit, they may be preserved. Suckers are given off by the fruiting plants, and should be chosen from those that have furnished the best fruit and promise best. If enough are not to be had in this way, it will he necessary to lay in some of the old stools by the heels in the succession pit, pulling off the bottom leaves, and where they grow suckers will start forth, and by keeping a few of these stools in such a position suckers may be had when wanted. They should be potted in turfy and somewhat stiff loam, and placed in front of the succession pit, and need not be shaded at any time of the year. The succession plants are, perhaps, best grown in a dung-pit, regularly attended to with linings. They must be covered in cold weather with mats, or, what is still better, with light wooden frames having straw thatched on to them — much easier to handle and cover than mats, and less expensive. The succession plants may be potted into their fruiting pots at any time of the year ; though, in small collections, and where a regular succession of fruit is not wanted, it may be better to do this work at regular intervals. In the fruiting pit they must be plunged, placing them, however, so that the water may pass freely from under the pot. They may be syringed daily, except when in flower ; some do it with liquid manure in a weak clear state. They should have a thorough watering whenever they are watered. As regards temperature, from 58° to 65° will do for the succession plants, increasing it as the days lengthen and the sun gets strong. [Fruiting plants should be kept warmer — from 65° to 70° — in- creasing as the days get warmer. The sun will, of course, often raise the temperature 10' or 15°, which will be at ail times beneficial. Give plenty of air when the sun is powerful. Shade is only necessary a few days after potting, and not always then. THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 103 As regards vermin, they rarely occur where good culture is the rule, and plenty of humidity in the pine pits, particularly in those for the young stuff. Syringing and plenty of ammonia in the atmo- sphere from dung-linings, etc., will soon get rid of scale; but if a collection is badly infested with it, the best way is to put all the plants in a strong fire, and consume them — emptying, thoroughly white- washing, and painting the pit, and beginning again with young plants, or old ones from some place where a clean stock is preserved. I must say a word on shading, as really the way in which some people run about with mats and shading material, when the sun does come out in our phlegmatic clime, is quite ridiculous. Can anything be more lamentable than to see the pine ground, or the melon ground, or any other space devoted to hothouses, pits, or frames, covered with decaying bass mats and ragged canvas, which the first stiff breeze sends fluffing about in all directions ? Tet, how common it is to see all this ! I hardly ever shade my pines, except, perhaps, for a few days alter summer potting. Is it likely that a plant coming from the scorching regions in which the pine luxuriates in a wild state would hurt from the little sun our glass houses and clouds afford it, if right at the root and in all other respects ? No ; the shading is part of the miserable practice that prevailed thirty years ago, when it was orthodox to keep the pine three years before per- mitting it to fruit — when it was disrooted annually in some places — and, in short, treated in the worst possible way to secure a perfect and an early fruiting plant. About that time I found that, if well fed and encouraged, the pineapple grew away winter and summer, and came to a splendid fruiting state in about half the time required, by our " great pine-growers " of the period. I tried to find some- thing hard, or something nasty, or something poisonous, in the interior of my fine-looking fruit, grown as it was in an unorthodox and impertinent way ; but I really could not discover how my fruit was inferior to the best ever grown by the tedious three-year-old process ; and then I ventured to write to " Loudon's Magazine," where my views were welcomed by its able editor, and since about that time pine culture has become very much simplified, and very much more satisfactory. As regards the potting, I always do the summer work near the soil-stacks on fine warm days. Clean pots are, of course, used ; hollow crocks being placed methodically over the bottom, and a few rough lumps of charcoal, then a few fibrous lumps of soil, with a sprinkling of chimney soot, after which the soil is added to the requisite height to receive the plant. I also put a few lumps of charcoal through my loam, and nothing else do I make use of at any time of the year. I pot and repot at all seasons, without which a regular supply of fruit cannot be had. The greatest portion of my plants get but one shift. After a strong sucker is well rooted i3 the time we generally choose to pop it into its fruiting pot, but there are seasons and circumstances when this rule must be modified. 104 SELECT EEKNS. (Continued from page 45.) fSPLENIUM alatum (57).— Eor filling a basket in the stove this is one of the most suitable ferns, and it makes a pleasing object on a rockery. Its brilliant green colour and graceful outlines render it distinguishable amongst many. In the greenhouse it prospers during the summer, but should be in the stove during winter. 58. Asplenium appendiculatum. — The fronds are subtripinnate, of a fine dark green colour ; a fine fern for the cool fernery. 59. Asplenium auritum. — A pretty light green stove fern, with tapering fronds, the lowest pinna? being distinctly eared. Admirable for a fern case. ASPLENIUM ALATUM. 60. Asplenium JBelangeri. — A favourite for exhibiting, and essential to a first-class collection. The colour is a rich green ; the general outlines plumy ; the fronds are proliferous. An evergreen stove fern. 61. Asplenium bulbiferum. — Undoubtedly one of the finest of the family, and one of the best for a beginner, whether to grow for exhi- bition, or to treat with such neglect as ferns are subject to. The fronds grow to eighteen inches in length, and become completely covered with tiny young plants, which weigh them down with THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 105 graceful arching outlines. First-rate for the cool house and the fern case. We have had a fine specimen in a case in the entrance hall for nearly five years, and its healthy aud luxuriant condition is unsurpassable. A. fabianum, A. laxum, A. mertensianum, and A. Shuttleworthianum are varieties of A. bulbifemm. 62. Asplenium dvmorphwm, sometimes labelled " A. biformis." — A grand species, often confounded with bulbiferum, but inexcusably so, for they are perfectly distinct. Independent of its fine arching, ample, glossy fronds, this species is interesting on account of the distinct characters of its barren and fertile fronds ; the first being broad and leafy, the second finely cut with linear pinnules. Grows freely planted out in a cool house, makes a fine specimen, and will thrive to perfection in a close case. ASPLENIUM MYlllorHYLLUM. 63. Asplenium fldbellifolium. — A lovely little fern for suspended baskets, in a case, or to plant high up on a rockery, in a cool house, or to stick into a chink in a damp wall, in the shady part of the stove. 64. Asplenium Tiemionitis, better known as A. palmatum. — A bold, showy fern, with broad palmate fronds, on which the sori are produced in beautiful lines. Figured in Floral World, Vol. V. (1862), p. 217. One of the best case ferns known ; also fine for 106 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. cool house, as it is nearly hardy. There is a pretty crested variety of it. 65. Asplenium lucidum. — An exhibition fern, nearly hardy, and therefore first-rate for the cool house, and especially fine for the indoor rockery. The fronds attain a length of four (or more) feet, if well grown. They are pendulous, brilliant green, and glossy. A 1 for everybody, except those who only have cases, and to these it is useful only when young. 66. Asplenium myriophyllwm. — A fern for the fairies, and certainly too good for any human being who ever frowned, spoke harshly, or treated a grandmother with disrespect. Its name denotes that it is like the water milfoil, finely cut, and divided into the loveliest of lace-like segments. As the fronds attain a length of nearly two feet, and are proliferous at the apex, a fine specimen affords plenty to look at. A. rhizophyllum, A. dubium, A. striatum, A. bifissum, A. clado- lepton, are either the same specifically, or so slightly removed, as to be regarded as varieties only. 67. Asplenium prcemorsum is a geueral favourite. It is a variable fern, the nominal form having arched, thrice-divided, tapering, spare- looking, smooth dark green fronds. It forms a splendid fern for a vase, and is first-rate for exhibition. The greenhouse is the proper place for it, but it will go through a mild winter in an unheated house, if it has a little care, more particularly to guard against excess of moisture. 68. Asplenium rhizophorum. — A charming fern, with light green arching fronds, every one of which takes root at the point, and pro- duces a young plant. Its object, evidently, is to cover all the world with itself by this mode of travelling ; it only fails because not equal in the struggle for life to some of the circumstances which oppose its progress. A pretty fern for suspending. The proper place for it is the stove, but Mrs. Hibberd has kept it, and multiplied it largely, in her cool cases during full ten years, and with few losses. 69. Asplenium viviparum. — A lovely small-growing, bluish green, fennel-like fern, but more sublime than fennel, as a bird of paradise is more sublime than a crow, though both are handsome. The upper surface is freely covered with young plants. It is one of the best possible for the front of a case, where, however, it is the first to die if anything goes wrong with the drainage. Mrs. Hibberd tells me she would never care to keep it in a case without the aid of artificial heat in winter, as, in the event of severe weather occurring when the case happened to be slightly more damp than usual, it would be like the tree, the flower, and the " dear gazelle " of the " trembling maid" in the " Fire Worshippers." 70. Asplenium serra. — The grandest of all the Aspleniums, and adapted only for large ferneries, where it requires stove heat. It is a first-class exhibition fern, with rich dark green, leafy, arching fronds, the pinnae of which are deeply serrated. Being evergreen it is well adapted to plant on a rockery in the stove. This completes our selection of the most distinct and useful Aspleniums, omitting Britishers, on which enough has been said in former papers. S.H. 107 THE LADIES' GAEDEN.— No. IV. BY J. C. CLARKE, Head Gardener at Cotbelston House, Taunton. [HE first work to be done this month is to see that all the beds and borders are raked over, and all decayed leaves and rubbiish of every kind removed, as anything of that description tends to multiply and harbour vermia, which, if allowed to increase, may possibly endanger the safety of young plants as they come up. We have now to consider in what way we are to supply flowers for the beds and borders without being dependent upon bedding plants. I, therefore, propose to deal with this subject at some length, as the time has now arrived when our readers must set to work in earnest. As nearly every garden possesses a cold frame, we must make use of that first, by placing it where it will get all the sun possible. If it is a deep one it must be filled up to within fifteen inches of the glass with any rubbish that will afford a free passage for the water, yet go together firm, so as it will not sink. Coal ashes, sand, or small gravel will answer. Upon this bed must be placed a thickness of fix inches of fine, rich, sandy soil. In every case this must be added if the first is not required. The frame will then be ready for the reception of the seeds, and such as I shall name first must be sown in drills about half an inch deep and four inches apart. One drill will generally furnish enough for one bed, if the frame is six feet wide, which is the ordinary measure ; and, of course, the drills should be lengthways. The sowing must take place as early in the month as possible. The seeds must be covered with fine soil, and gently watered with a fine rose waterpot. Every night, until the middle of May, the frame must be covered up secure from frost, and until the seedlings appear they will require shading. This is best done by sheets of old newspapers laid on the soil inside of the frame, as then the sun upon the glass warms the internal air of the frame ; but if the sun is excluded by external coverings upon the ulass, the seeds do uot feel the benefit of the sun, consequently they are longer before they vegetate. As soon as the seedlings show themselves outside, shading must be resorted to, but then only just sufficient to break the force of the sun's rays for about four hours in very bright, clear weather. Watering must be attended to according to the amount of sunshine. In very bright weather water should be given early every morning ; but in dull, wret weather, every second or third day will suffice, but they must never be kept wet for days together. The amount of air must also depend upon the state of the weather. If bright and clear, a wedge four inches in thickness, to tilt up the back of the light for at least eight hours every day, will be necessary. When the weather is dull and wet, or the wind cold, half that space for air will suffice. I need not to say more about the management of the frame further than that more air must be allowed after the middle of May, by removing the light quite 108 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. off when it does not actually rain in the day, and tilting it with the thickest wedge every night. Such treatment for a week will harden the plants, and then they may be planted out, about which I shall have something to say next month. Before I name the kinds of seeds, it may be well to state that many of them would flower if sown in the open ground. My object in recommending frame culture for them is, that they may be in flower at least a month earlier, than those sown out of doors. For convenience I shall place them alphabetically, whether they are annuals or perennials, as I shall only name such perennials as will flower the first year. Calliopsis (or Coreopsis) Drummondii. — This is the dwarfest of all the Coreopsis, and, to my mind, the best. It is a good subject for an oval or round bed, and makes a capital mixture in the borders. It grows about a foot high. It must be sown thinly in the frame. Diantlius Heddewigii and its varieties are charming subjects, if grown on in the frame, thinly in the drills, until the end of May. They make a first-rate bed, or may have conspicuous places in the borders. Convolvulus major is rather loose in growth perhaps, but it furnishes a colour that we cannot get in other subjects from seed. Gallardia picta will make a nice autumn bed if nursed on in the frame until quite the latest. Helichrysums are not half enough known, yet they are most easy to grow and useful to cut from. I grow mine in good soil in any open spot, and sow about the beginning of May. Last year they furnished a supply of cut flowers up to the first week in December. To flower early they require frame treatment, and then they will flower for a space of five or six months if the soil is good, and as " everlastings " they offer a capital variety of colours. They are too tall for beds, but are admirably adapted lor the back rows of a mixed border. Malope grandiflora has large, brilliant, dark-red flowers, and keeps up a continual show. It grows two to three feet high, and should be planted singly in the borders. Phlox Drummondii is a chaste and beautiful bedding plant. The end of May will be soon enough to plant it out. Saponaria Calabrica is perhaps the best bedder amongst all the list of hardy annuals. It flowers earlier by being sown under glass. A bed of it is nothing if viewed from a distance, but charming when seen immediately under the eye. Schizanthus pinnatus and pinnatus Priesti may be grown this way, and are good for mixed borders. Tagetes signata pumila is the best of all substitutes for calceo- larias, as it makes a good yellow bedding plant. So, indeed, do all the varieties of marigolds, for we have few amongst the ordinary run of bedding plants that will compete, for richness of marking, with the French and African varieties, and they are either good for beds or borders. Eemember, they are very susceptible of cold when young. Zinnia elegans, both double and single, treated as above advised, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 109 are also good for borders, and if kept pegged down until the end of July, they make a superb bed. I have purposely omitted the Ten-iveeks Stocks and German Asters, because I wished to say that they must be sown in the drills very thinly, and when up they must be thinned out to at least two inches apart, so it will be best to devote more than one drill to these. The stocks, too, are liable to damp off when thick in the row. As they advance in growth, shake over them, when the leaves are dry, a little dry earth, or peat dust, at intervals of every four days. Both of these are, of course, admirable subjects for beds and borders. I must now state that all the above would be benefited if they could be sown on a gentle bottom-heat ; therefore, those who have the convenience, may adopt that method. Two or three cartloads of fresh stable manure, properly worked up, would assist them amazingly, as the plants would get larger, and, consequently flower earlier. But those who are not in a position to command bottom- heat must not be disheartened. The only difference will be they will not have so early a show of flowers by a fortnight, and be deprived of a few subjects which the convenience of others enables them to possess. Those who have the advantage of fermenting material may add the following to the sorts above named : — All the Portulaccas ; the pretty little Campanula carpatica, white and blue ; Petunias, Lobelias; also Amaranthus melanclwlicus ruber and Perilla Nankinensis for ornamental foliage plants ; but these are all subjects that require more care. They must be pricked out into boxes or small pots a week or two before hand, and if sown a month earlier another year they would be likely to do better. A good substitute for either is Barr's Selected bedding beet, which should be sown about the middle of April where it is to remain. Any good seedsman's catalogue will give lists of hardy annuals that may be sown this month, but I shall only give the names of those that I know to be good for bedding, or that last a long while in flower, without respect to hardiness. Tom Thumb TropaBolums (miscalled "Nasturtiums"). These are excellent bedders, and, as they don't like transplanting, they may be sown at once where they are to flower. JSschscholtzia crocea, a capital plant for yellow flowers ; Yiscaria oculata, Leptosiplwn aureus, Whitlavia gvancliflora, Hibiscus Africanus, Yellow Hawhweed, Eutoca viscida, Bartonia aurea, and the Helianthus annuus, or sun- flower. The last forms noble objects amongst shrubs and back- grounds of borders. There are a few more tender plants which will serve as bedders which I shall name next month. In the meantime our readers should secure the following seeds, and sow in pots, and place in the frame or in the windows of a warm room, and next month I propose to show them how to deal with them, for the ladies' garden cannot be complete without these beautiiul climbers : Convolvulus major in variety ; Tropceolum canariensis, and Tropceolum Lobbii ; Maurandia Barclaijana, Eccremocarpus, Sweet Peas, and the Lophospermum ; these will afford variety and interest to the garden, and give a sort of finish to certain spots that would look otherwise unsightly. In 110 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. closing, I may remark that all annuals sown in the open ground should be sown in fine weather, and not when the soil is very wet. They should be sown in round rings, half an inch deep, and a foot over, placing a stick in the centre of each clump to mark its position. SELECTIONS OE GKAPES. BY WILLIAM COLE, Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex. SHALL not indulge in any controversial remarks upon the question of the proper time for planting vineries ; whether autumn or spring is the most suitable, it is equally true that many people are anxiously inquiring just now about the best varieties amongst the many that are offered. Vines planted in the spring, after they are started, grow vigorously with careful attention, and if the borders are made with suitable materials, and the vines strong and healthy when planted, the young growtn ought to reach the top of a fifteen feet rafter. In some respects autumn planting has its advantages, more particularly with people who are not well up in gardening affairs, for it can be done in a rougher kind of manner than when the vines are in full leaf. Though I have no intention to enter into the details of vine culture at this moment, I will just mention for the good of my amateur friends that it is highly important to carefully disengage the roots when matted together, and spread them out regularly, for it is seldom that plants of any kind do much good if turned out with a hard, solid ball of soil, because the water can percolate more freely through the new stuff, frequently leaving the old ball and roots high and dry. I have not the slightest desire to depreciate any of the new grapes, but I cannot too strongly advise those who have but one or two vineries to be very shy of discarding any of the good old grapes to make way for newer sorts when first brought into notice, or until they have been thoroughly tested by those with more room. It may happen, as in fact it has happened with some sorts, that they have certain peculiarities or failings that totally unfit them for general cultivation. It is not so much the few pounds the vines have cost as the time and space wasted, both of which can be ill-afforded. It is well-nigh impossible to finish off grapes over a houseful of plants, but good grapes and decent plants can be grown in the same house, provided a proper selection of grapes are planted. For this purpose I shall select the Frankenthal, which I consider, when true, to be one of the best of the Hamburghs, and Standish's Royal Ascot for black grapes. The latter produces medium bunches and large berries of a fine deep black colour, and fine flavour. It is just the grape for an amateur, as it is a tremendous bearer, almost every lateral produced during the summer bearing a bunch. The white grapes should not be planted more extensively than one to every three black ones, unless there is a special liking for white grapes, as THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Ill the black kinds are decidedly superior in many respects. Our selec- tion for the greenhouse must rest with Foster's Seedling and Buck- land Sweetioater. The first is especially free, with large bunches, but rather small berries. The last is now known to be one of the finest white grapes, being large both in bunch and berry, and of excellent flavour. All the above will do well together in the same house, aud supposing eight vines to be planted, I should prefer three each of the two black kinds, and one each of the whites. The Royal Ascot is rather dear just now, and where that is a matter for serious con- sideration, substitute the Black Hamburgh for it. The table may be supplied with Black Hamburghs every day in the year where there is proper convenience for forcing, but as that is not the case everywhere, we are bound to fall back for the latest and earliest supply upon good keeping kinds. As I have already said, the Frankenthal is one of the best of the Hamburghs, if not the best for exhibition, aud quite equal in flavour and productiveness to any of the other forms of this fine old grape. The berries of this, when well grown, are slightly oval, and present a beautifully hammered appearance. Tbe Black Hamburgh must enter largely into the planting of all vineries that are to supply fruit from March to the end of November. It can be had up to Christmas, but it is rather a troublesome affair to keep it until then, and I prefer late-keeping sorts after the time specified. Without a shadow of doubt, it is the finest summer grape we yet have. In the Golden Champion we have a, noble companion to the Black Hamburgh. The last is a grand grape without an equal amongst the varieties that will do with the Hamburghs. The bunches and berries are of a startling size, and for competitive purposes, none of the white grapes (with the exception of the Muscats), can stand against it. For summer work, Buckland Sweetwater must have a prominent place, being iu every way superior to the old variety, the large well-shouldered bunches of the former bearing a stronger re- semblance to well-finished Hamburghs than anything else. For the earliest house, the Old Sweetwater is perhaps preferable, as it is one of the earliest grapes we have, and fair-sized bunches of it are by no means despicable. But in all houses that are to ripen after April, I should prefer the Buckland. The Golden Hamburgh is not sufficiently rich and vinous for a well-educated palate to be tolerated in a select collection, though it is a handsome grape when done well. In the Royal Vineyard, Trentham Black, and Muscat Hamburgh, we have varieties that are too shy and uncertain to be worth growing, while we have so many good sure croppers to pick from. The Boyal Ascot is, of course, admirable in the general vinery, but I think scarcely wanted where a good crop of Black Hamburghs is a comparatively easy task in the hands of its manager. I am not able to say anything about its keeping qualities, but I am inclined to think that, as the texture of the skiu is rather leathery, it will hang well. Black Prince and West St. Peter are both good grapes, and hang well. The Muscat of Alexandria is still without its equal for flavour. Its drawbacks consist in its requiring a large amount of fire-heat to 112 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. ripen it well, and its shy setting qualities in the hands of inexperi- enced people. After a thorough knowledge of its habits is attained, if the roots are in a good border, it can be depended upon as a regular bearing grape, for the whole of the bunches cut last year from our house here averaged between four and six pounds, and each vine had the same number of bunches. The late grapes must not be forgotten, and I shall have no fear of doing wrong in giving Mrs. Prince's Black Muscat the first place, whether for free bearing, rich flavour, or good keeping qualities. It is now known to be one of the best late-keeping grapes in every way. Next in importance we have the Kempsey Alicante, a remarkably fine grape for late work, being rather a better setter than Lady Downe's Seedling, though I have no difficulty with either. Until last year, the flavour of the former has been rather the best, from vines growing side by side in the same house, but last year the latter was the richest of the two. The Calabrian Raisin is a well-flavoured white grape for late keeping, but not particularly handsome in ap- pearance. The Madresjield Court I do not know much about, there- fore am unable to give it a character, but I consider that the Black Barbarossa is fit only to make a bonfire with the wood. It is a troublesome grape to grow, and when grown, not worth having. GEASSES EOE "WINTER BOUQUETS. BY KAEL PEOSPEB. AM much blamed that I did not give a list of grasses as well as of Everlasting Elowers in my paper last month. Well, there is still good time to buy and to sow them. Such as are to be grown will be found in every good seed catalogue, and the way I recommend the amateur to proceed is to sow all in pots, and forward them in a cold frame, or a verv gentle heat, and plant them out when genial weather occurs, provided they are large enough to be turned out completely without injury to their roots. The following is a list of grasses suitable to grow in the garden or collect from the hedgerows (as the case may be), for associating with helychrisums, etc. In the first list are such as may be pur- chased in seeds or plants : — Avena sterilis, Agrostis nebulosa, A. plu- mosa, A. pulchella, remarkably pretty ; Bromus brizceformis, Chloris radiata, Chloropsis Blanc hordiana, Brim maxima, gracilis, and minor. Ceratachloa pendula, large imposing spike ; Chloris barbata, Erag- rostis elegans, Hordeum jubatum, DactylacteneuniAEgi/pticum, Elymus glauca, Lagurus ovatus, Lcptochloa Schimperiana, Mouochyron roseum, Panicum sulcatum, Paspalum stoloniferum, Pennisetum longistylum, Stipa eleqantissima, Lappago racemosa, Milium multiflorum, Panicum compressum, P. jumentorum, Sefaria macroseta, Gynerium argenteum. The following are wild grasses of the most beautiful character : — Phleum pratense, Milium effusum, Agrostis spica venti, Aira c&spitosa, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 113 Arrfienatfierum avenaceum, Avenaflavescens, Mellca unijlora, a lovely thing ; Glyceriajiuitans, Festuca gvjantea, Bromus asper and sterilis, Juncus lampocarpus, Carex remota, G. pendula, G. sylvatica, and the varieties of the cultivated Oat. FERNS FOR EXHIBITION. BY a. GRAY, Head Gardener, Norbitou Hall, Kingston. [ITH all the wealth of ferns which we have to pick and choose from, it is quite astounding to see what poor- looking sorts many small growers are content to waste their time, patience, and skill upon. Not that it is of much importance what is grown at home, if it gives the grower pleasure in attending to the plants, and so long as they satisfy him. Growing for competitive purposes, however, bears quite a different complexion, for I suppose the main object of every one who takes plants to an exhibition tent is to carry off prizes. Now, to do this, you must not only have plants grown well, but plants that have a telling effect when they are staged for competi- tion. All ferns have, in my estimation, some degree of beauty, but all are not so well suited for exhibition. These notes are not written for those who exhibit at our great London meetings, for, generally speaking, they are able to take care of themselves, though perhaps a hint or two will do them no harm. Ferns for show should be mostly large-growing kinds, as they produce a grander effect ; but coarse- growing sorts must be avoided, as a nice little plant of one of the Adiantums would be any day preferable to a large plant of a Lito- brochia. The tree ferns can, of course, be only grown by those who have plenty of room, for it ruins ferns to have their fronds cramped or scorched through touching the glass. Alsopliila australis, Cihotium Schiedei, Cyalkea dealbata, and DicTcsonia antarctica, are perhaps four as fine tree ferns as could be selected, and all do well in a cool house, with the exception of the second, which requires a stove, Adiantum cuneatum, A. formosum, and A. Farley ense are all good, the last two particularly so. In the section of Aspleniums we have A. proemorsum, a very elegant fern, A. bulbiferum, and A. flaccidum. The best of the Blechnums is, in my opinion, the old B. Brasiliense. I am almost afraid to touch the Cheilanthes, as they are rather difficult to manage, but G. elegans does well in a greenhouse. Clbotium Barometz is a charming free-growing subject, with large glossy green fronds. The Bird's-nest fern, Thamnopteris aitstrala- sica, must not be forgotten. Drynaria morbillosa, Miarolepia platy* pftylla, y ephrodium inolle corymbiferum, Pteris hastata, P. argyrcea, P. scaberula, Polystichum coriaceum capense, Gleichenia rupestris, G. jlabellata, are all fine exhibition species that do well in a greenhouse. Nephrolepsis exaltata, i\T. davalloides, Polypodium spectabile, Da/oallia VOL. IV. —NO. IV. 8 114 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. tenuifolia striata, D. bullata, Gleichenia diclwtoma, Hymenodium crini- tum, Phlebodium inultiseriale, Goniopteris fraxinifolium, are amongst the best of the stove species for show purposes. The gold and silver ferns include several fine exhibition species. Of the former class, G. chrysopliylla is one of the best. G. Martensii and G. Laucheana are also good. G. argyropliylla, and G. Wettenlialliana, are two splendid species of the latter class. Ferns frequently present a poor starved appearance through being potted entirely in hungry peat. The Gymnograrnmas require peat, but the others do much better in equal parts of fibrous silky loam and peat. The pots must be well drained, and enough sand added to make the soil feel gritty. It is a difficult matter to say how much sand must be used, as that in a great measure must depend upon the nature of the soil. The plants should have a shift every year at least ; and when they get into the largest-sized pot that can be conveniently used, reduce the ball, and repot into the same size again. These plants require plenty of water when in full growth, and just enough to keep them in health during the winter, for too much at the last-mentioned season will most likely rot the roots. An abundance of atmospheric humidity must be maintained through the summer, but only the free-growing species with stout fronds should be syringed overhead. The plants can be shaded by tacking stout tiffany over the roof, or painting the glass with hot lime outside, or, if labour is no object, movable blinds can be used. NEW SHOW AND FANCY PELARGONIUMS. BY GEORGE GORDON. CTING upon the belief that there are still a few who take an interest in these two sections of the Pelar- gonium family, I have penned a few notes upon the new varieties of last year, with the hope that they may be useful. At all events they can be taken as trustworthy, as the descriptions were made by me from the plants when in flower last summer. Mr. Poster and Mr. Beck were, as usual, in the front rank with show varieties ; and Mr. C. Turner, of Slough, still held his own with the Fancies. I will take the large-flowering varieties first ; and for the sake of making a start, we will begin with those raised by Mr. Foster. The first in my book is Cinderella, a charming flower, of fine form, top petals deep maroon, with a bright rosy edge, lower petals lake, overlaid with black veins and pure white throat. Corsair is scarcely so perfect in form as the preceding, but the flowers are large and richly coloured, being bright rosy pink with dark blotch on top petals. Herald is remarkable for its fine habit, flowers large and of good form, top petals deep maroon with rosy pink bottom petals. Lady of the Lake, a fine variety, with large well- made flowers, top petals maroon, lower petals reddish salmon, beau- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 115 tifully overlaid with rich lake lines. Prince Imperial, flowers large and finely formed, bright rosy pink, shaded with salmon, and dark blotch on top petals. Maid of Honour, an average flower, with rosy- carmine top petals, with dark blotch, and pink lower petals. Troubadour, the flowers of this variety are large and of rather a new style of colouring ; top small maroon blotch, breaking into a pinkish lake margin ; bottom pinkish salmon, and white throat. Envoy, large and finely formed, top blackish maroon, with rosy edge, bottom lake. Nonpareil, flowers of good form, with fine broad well-made petals, top blackish maroon, with thin rosy edge, bottom lilac, overlaid with rich lake lines ; distinct and good. Flou-er of the Day, a bright pleasing flower, of medium size, top black, breaking into veins on a lake ground, bottom clear rosy pink. From Mr. Beck's batch we shall not be far wrong in selecting the following : — Olivia, a grand flower, top petals black, shading to bright crimson, lower petals reddish lake. Hector, a finely- formed stout well-built flower, top petals black, shading to the richest crimson ; bottom, rich rosy crimson. Sylvia, a pretty medium-sized flower, pure white, with large feathery blotch of lake on top petals- Isabella, a fine large flower, though scarcely perfect, top petals black with rosy crimson edge, bottom blush, overlaid with pink lines and white throat. I shall not enumerate the whole of the splendid faucies brought forward by Mr. Turner during last year, but content myself with selecting the creme de la creme of his fine batch. First in order we have Agrippa, a charming light flower, top petals light rose in rays, lower petals faint spots on blush ground. Brightness, lively rose, with white throat, distinct and pretty. Belle of the Season, top petals rich magenta rose, bottom crescent-shaped, blotches of the same colour on a blush ground, first-rate. Excelsior, good rich magenta rose. Marmion, bright rosy carmine, with light centre, rich and showy. "Mrs. Mendell, top rosy pink, bottom rose-pink spots on a light ground. East Lynne, top rosy crimson, bottom light rose, and clear white eye, a superbly- finished flower. Leotard, fine rich magenta, with white centre and margin, large and fine. Princess Teclc, medium size, but perfect in form, paper-white ground, with bright rosy carmine feather on top petals, and small spots on bottom, first rate. Fanny Gair, a finely-finished flower, top petals rosy carmine, bottom flushed and spotted with bright rose. I must not omit to mention Magnet, a superb, decorative, large- flowered pelargonium, raised by Messrs. Dobson. The flowers are not quite so well formed as some of the best of the show varieties ; the colour fiery crimson, with dark blotches on top petals. The plants have a remarkably dwarf, compact, and free-flowering habit. I have seen it on several occasions, both at home and abroad, and have no hesitation in pronouncing it to be one of the very best early-flowering decorative geraniums we have. This wras brought out in 18G7, and is, therefore, getting cheap by this time, but of the latter point I am unable to speak confidently, as I know nothing about the price. 116 HOME-GEOWN HYACINTHS. YACINTH bulbs are well worth keeping for future use, and may be made eminently serviceable both for pot culture and the decoration of the border, and wherever cut flowers are in demand at this time of year, home- grown hyacinths are invaluable. But to say that we can get them up to equal Dutch bulbs is nonsense. The man who so speaks should be required on pain of excommunication from the horticultural connection to bring forward samples in flower which can be proved to be home-grown, and which shall stand the test of comparison with first-class spikes of imported bulbs; and until this is done, we may as well confess that the Dutch are as ever the masters of this department. It must not be supposed that with the best possible care bulbs saved in England will ever bloom a second or third time so bravely as they did the first. But that they are worth keeping has been abundantly proved in the experimental garden, and our first display by the plunging system consists always of bulbs which are strictly home-grown, as we pot these early, but never pot purchased bulbs until the middle of December, in order to postpone our best display until the cruel March winds are past. Since the middle of February to this time the front court of the experimental garden has been delightfully gay with hyacinths saved from previous seasons by the process I shall now describe. Let us suppose a lot of bulbs that have just done flowering in glasses. These bulbs have lived on water, and are therefore pretty well exhausted ; moreover, they have not had sufficient light, and consequently the leaves are of great length, and the flower-stalk is perhaps so lengthened out as to have a most ridiculous appearance. Undoubtedly the best plan in this case is to throw the bulbs away. But, if you will have patience with them, they may be saved to bloom again — not in glasses, certainly, but in the borders. Your first care must be to preserve the leaves from injury, to keep them alive until they have contributed to the bulb a certain amount of nutriment for its next year's growth. There are many ways to do this, but the practice which has been most successful here is as follows : — A bed is made up with two or three feet of nearly decayed manure, and on the surface is spread six inches depth of a mixture consisting of equal parts loam and rotten manure, and a quantify of coarse grit added. The sifted sweepings of gravel walks supply the last-named ingredient. A frame is then put on, and we have, not a hot-bed, but a tvarm bed. "Wherever mauure that has been laid up for some time is turned and made into a bed, there is a gentle fermentation and a nice warmth, admirably adapted to pro- mote the functions of vegetable life without any forcing effect. Such a bed is invaluable for many other purposes besides the one it is now intended for. The next business is to cut off the flower-spikes of the hyacinths, not close down to the bulb, but below the lowest of the flowers, so as to remove all the flowers, and leave the remainder of THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 117 the flower-stem to perish, in its own way. The last business is to take them out of the glasses, spread their roots out carefully on the bed, and cover them with earth until the bulb is quite hidden from the daylight. To do all this nicely requires some practice ; and you may be sure a beginner will damage both roots and leaves in his first attempts. But the begiuner's chief difficulty will be to keep them close together. The leaves will sprawl about so, and demand so much room, that a good-sized frame will hold only a dozen. Nevertheless, tbe object must be to get a hundred into the space which seems to be required for a dozen. The bulbs ought not to touch each other, but they need not be more than three or four inches apart ; and to cure the sprawling of the leaves, a thin stick may be put to each bulb, and the leaves be brought together gently with a bit of bast and kept to the stick, leaving them sufficiently open that the daylight may get to the heart of the plant, so that every leaf will have some share of it. If after all the great leaves get a little mixed, and overlap one another, it cannot be helped, and you must make your mind easy. Give them a good soaking from a watering-pot filled with tepid water, and with a coarse rose on the spout, and at once draw the light down, and shut them up close. The next day give air for an hour in the morning, and if the sun shines fiercely on the frame, lay a mat on to shade them. Remove the mat when the sunshine has abated, and shut up the frame again. Continue this practice daily for a week. At the end of that time they will require another good watering, which must be done in the same way as before. If you thrust your finger into the soil of the bed, you will find that it is comfortably warm, and if you have a few hyacinths left in glasses indoors, fetch one and compare it with tbose in the frame. You will find tbat already the plants in the frame have acquired a deeper shade of green, and look more glossy and healthy than when they were in glasses. The shading must be continued whenever the sun shines fiercely on the frame, but they must have as much daylight as possible, and plenty of air. It will be well, however, always to shut them up at night until their growth is completed, as the confinement causes the depo- sition of a heavy dew upon the leaves, which is a great help to them. In some six or eight weeks from the time of planting them in the frame, the leaves will begin to look yellow, and to die from the point downwards. From this time cease to water them, take off the light, and leave them exposed night and day, and the more sunshine and drought the better. When they are at last taken up, many will be found with fresh roots attached, as if still inclined to grow ; but if the general bulk are ripe, the leaves dead, the roots nowhere, and the bulbs hard and heavy, take them up, cut off any roots that are still fresh, and store away the stock in a dry place, and quite pro- tected from the action of the air. I here suppose them to be all planted at the same time ; this, of course, is merely for convenience in describing the practice. Let them be planted out as soon as possible after the beauty of the bloom is over : every day that they are confined in a sitting-room beyond what is needful for the sake of their flowers is a day wasted in the process of their recovery. Id 118 THE ELOBAL WOBLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. taking up the bulbg, many will be found to have offshoots attached to them. Let them remain and store them all as they are, throwing out entirely any that are quite or partially rotten. In any number of bulbs flowered in water, a few are sure to perish in this way. Let us next suppose a nice lot of pot bulbs that have been forced in the pit or greenhouse, and used iu various ways for decorative purposes. These will not require so much care as those flowered in glasses, for they will be less debilitated, and if they have not been too long in the drawing-room, their leaves and spikes will be short and manageable. The best way to deal with these is the same as- described above for the bulbs that have been in water. If this process is inconvenient, the cultivator may be content to stand the pots on a bed of rotten dung, or some rich potting compost in a frame, to give them the chance of rooting through into it. He must give plenty of water — abundance of water. If, by any chance, he keeps them dry, or gives them only one dose and adone with it, the bulbs will be small and light • but with plenty of food and shelter in a frame from the moment the flowers are past, the bulbs will be large and heavy. Some people pitch their potted bulbs about like so much rubbish the moment the bloom is past, and then upon such wretched experience pronounce an ipse dixit against keeping bulbs at all. But just notice how unreasonable it is to expose a plant to cold and drought that has been up to a certain moment kept in a warm, moist atmosphere, and had abundance of water. It is because such bulbs as we are now considering have been grown in a comfortable temperature that I advocate framing them, for at this season of the year it is outrageous to expose to east winds and frosts, plants of such delicate organization, and that have had such scrupulous care to flower them in perfection. Shelter,, moisture, food — these are the requisites to fit them for further use. If they were originally potted in very rich soil, they may do with water and shelter only to the end of their growth, but I am quite certain that it is better practice to give them more food than they can obtain in the pots, and therefore I advocate either turning them out, as in the first practice, or allowing them to root through into something good, as in the second. Let us next consider the bulbs that have been flowered in frames. My stock of frame bulbs is just now coming to its prime, and my first lot of forced bulbs are just worn-out, and a3 the last lot come out of frames to do duty, the first lot are put in their places. As- inine are potted in very rich soil — half rotten dung and half turfy hazel loam, with sharp grit added — I shall not turn any of them out, but require them to finish their growth in pots as they are. By the time the frame bulbs are out of bloom we shall be in the middle of April. The bulbs not having been forced, and the season being advanced when their bloom is over, renders it unnecessary to frame them. It is ivith the unforced bulbs grown in pots that I have had the best success in keeping and increasing stock, and I can tell you in a few words the routine pursued. A bed is made up by placing some stout planks on edge, and fixing them with stout pegs. The space so inclosed is filled to a depth of nine inches with a THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 119 mixture of equal parts light loam and rotten manure. I think we have sometimes used quite three-fourths of very fat manure, and with none but good results. Tou can scarcely overdo it in the way of food, but you must not put rank or half-fermented dung in the bed. Equal parts loam and manure will do well, and add a fifth part of coarse gravel, grit, or sharp sand, if you can ; but if you cannot do so conveniently, never mind. As fast as you get bulbs which have had their day, remove the spikes, but leave the lower part of the flower-stalk to perish in its own way. Open shallow trenches across the bed, knock the plants out, remove the crocks, and plant them carefully in rows, deep enough to quite cover the bulbs. The leaves and roots must be handled tenderly: It is not a job for a clumsy person ; at the same time it is as easy as eating bread and butter. One good watering makes an end of the work. Being hardy, they want no shelter; being in rich stuff, they will be moist to the last : and being still in a growing state, the roots will at once take hold of the rich stuff they are in, and the leaves will presently after grow to a tremendous size, and will have a beautiful dark green colour. All the potted bulbs used here in the plunging system are turned out into rich beds to finish their growth. In fact, they all go to the same bed, which in the end contains a complete medley — here a row of crocus, next a row of hyacinths, next a row of tulips, etc., etc. After a few weeks of dry, hot weather in July, the whole lot are taken up and cleaned and sorted. S. H. FERN CASE HEATED BY GAS FLAME. T has often been regretted by you and your correspondents that no simple method exists for the heating of fern cases. It is to assist, if I possibly can, in removing this difficulty, tbat I send you the enclosed plan, which I have used for some little time with the greatest success. It is true, up to the present time the winter has not been sufficiently severe to give my amateur heating apparatus a thorough test, but from being able to regulate the temperature up to any degree, I have no doubt of its success under all circumstances. You must understand that my fern case is an outside one, south-east aspect; and being situate in a corner abutting on a neighbour's house, the wind blows on the top, two sides, and underneath, rather sharply. You will say this is not the best situation for growth of ferns, but still, as it is the only one I can get, I must make the best of it ; and I am consoled by knowing that greater is the success when you can produce favourable results under the most unfavourable circumstances. My mode of procedure may be easily explained. A tin tube (lapped joint not soldered) marked T in sketch, stands in the corner of my case, perfectly out of sight to any ordinary observer looking into the case from the room. Passing through a brass bottom, a small gas pipe enters the tube supporting a six-hole argand burner. A bat's-wing or fish-tail burner will not answer, as the wide flames impinge against the side of the thin tin tube, and would have a tendency to destroy it. The small door D is to close the aperture through which the gas is lit, and the pipe S is carried out through the frame into the open air to supply the burner with air to support the combustion. Be sure it is a tolerable size, for when the gas is full on much air is required to support a clear steady flame, and to prevent smoke. The gas passes through the pipe G, carried also into the open air through frame of case. Of course, the heat thus engendered would be much too dry for the proper development of ferns. I therefore arrange two pans, holding about a quart of water 120 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. each, on the tin tube, and by seeing they are filled with water each morning, a nice moist temperature can be preserved through the day. If you have a sharp frosty night, fill up your reservoirs a^ain at night, and by keeping a very small body of flame, which can be regulated to the greatest nicety, the likelihood of your ferns being injured by the frost is next to impossible. •as There is no unpleasant odour of vitiated air, such as you would experience when lamps or night-lights are burnt in the case, and which odour is, I fancy, not only disagreeable, but injurious to the ferns under cultivation. Moreover, I have a sad remembrance of finding, one cold winter's morning, that my lamps had expired through the night, possibly from want of air, and several of my pet ferns were frozen to the glass sides of my case, notwithstanding my care and forethought. It was to avoid a repeti- tion of such a calamity that I improvised the plan 1 place at your disposal, and, I think I may say, without being con- sidered egotistical, that it answers well, is little or no trouble, and the cost of mak- ing is next to nothing, as any ordinary tinman can do it. The consumption of gas will make little difference in the demands of the gas col- lector. I need scarcely add, that the top of the tube in which the gas is burning must be carried through the top of case, otherwise smoke as well as moist air would fill your fernery. The tube is about six and a half inches in circumference. The reservoirs two inches deep, and twenty inches apart on the tube, and can be soldered on, as the water prevents the solder melting, My reservoirs are triangular, so as to fit in a corner, but round, or any shape, will answer. Henky. D. Ceosslet. T The Dog and the Raven. — "Whilst visiting a remote but rather considerable town in Lincolnshire, where I had not been for nearly twenty years, save on a few flying visits, I called upon an old schoolfellow, a chemist, and whilst talking with him a raven looked in at the door, and received his accustomed bone. The bird had such a genial expression that I could not help asking his history. He belonged to the landlady of the principal hotel in the place; in fact, a pet bird. Accustomed to every luxury in feeding, but still a bird of prey, his raids, however, were friendly ones, and freely responded to ; he had no need to cater for himself. In the hotel yard there was a small dog belonging to the ostler, not too well fed, and, out of love for him, this old bird (for he had been there twenty years) levied contributions on his mistress's best customers. The ostler married ; in a fortnight he had to go through the greatest of earthly trials : his wife died. What could the poor fellow do ? What should any of us do at such a time ? He went every morning at his breakfast hour to the cemetery, some half-mile distant, to look at his wife's grave. The dog and raven went also ; but he could not bear this long, and consequently obtained a situation some forty miles distant, but was not able to take his dog at first. The dog and raven, after his departure, as long as the dog was there, went alone every morning at the accustomed hour to the cemetery, and stood reverently beside the grave of the poor fellow's wife. These facts could be attested by many o the townspeople. — F. JR. M., in " Hardwicke's Science Gossip." 121 NEW PLANTS. 1NCIDIUM MACRANTHUM, Large-flowered Oncidium {Bot. Mag., t. 5743).— Orchidacea;. A magnificent species of gigantic proportions. The flowers are in panicles two to three feet long, and each flower mea- sures three to three and a-half inches across. The prevailing colour is deep gamboge yellow, with purple lip. Parroti\ persica, Persian Parrotia {Bot. Mag., t. 5744).— Hamamelideaj. One of the rarest trees in cultivation. It is a native of Northern Persia, quite hardy in this country. Agalmyla STAMiNEiE, Long-stamined Agalmyla {Bot. Mag., t. 5747). — Cyr- tandraceaj. A brilliantly-coloured stove plant, native of Java, which flowered at Kew in June last. Thunbergia fragrans, Fragrant-flowered Thunbergia {Dlllust. Hort., t. 511). — Acanthacece. A charming stove climber, identical, no doubt, with T. laurifolia THUNBERGIA FBAGBANS. BPIMEDICM ALPINUM. of Lindley. The leaves and flowers are both above the average size of other species in cultivation. The flowers are white, resembling those of Convolvulus sepium, and they emit a delightful spicy odour. Mr. B. S. Williams first introduced this plant to English gardens. Epimedium alpinum var. rcbrum, Bed-flowered Barrenwort {Bot. Mag., t. 5671).— Berberidese. A very elegant hardy plant, adapted for the shady border or rockwork. Native of Japan. In his note on this pretty plant, Dr. J. D. Hooker says, " It is very much to be desired that plants of the habit of growth of the one here figured should be more extensively cultivated. Their forms are peculiarly graceful, and suitable for pot-culture and table decoration. Their bright foliage is rigid, and retains its appearance uninjured for weeks, whether indoors or out of doors, and nothing can excel the delicate grace of the panicle of nodding flowers. There are several other species of Epimedium equally deserving of culture, as E. macranthum, E. musschianum, E. pinnatum, E. violaceum, and E. diphyllum. All are hardy, all are suited for decoration, and a collection of half-a-doztm of the spring-flowering species brought forward into flower at the same time by a skilful gardener would deservedly command a high award at any horticultural exhibition." Yes, but when shall we see makers of schedules display so much sense and good taste as to offer a prize of aDy kind for such charming but unfashionable things as Epimediums ? 122 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Ibiridella rotundifolia, Round-leaved Iberidella (Bot. Mag., t. 5749). — A lovely cruciferous plant, adapted for the rockery, native of the Alps. It grows in humble tufts, and throws up crowded racemes of pale lilac flowers. Tacsonia eriantha, Woolly-flowered Tacsonia (Bot. Mag., t. 5750). — A noble passion-flower, resembling in habit and colour of flower the well-known T. mol- lissima. The leaves are of a pale green, the flowers pale cheerful pink. As a greenhouse or conservatory climber it will be valuable, as it is comparatively hardy, and flowers freely. Stapelia hystrix, Bristhi-flowered Stapelia (Bot. Mag., t. 5751). — An asclepiadaceous plant, closely allied to S. glanduliflora. The flowers occur two or three together, the corolla one inch in diameter, pale sulphur-coloured, marked with innumerable purple lines. Thibaudia acuminata, Sharp-leaved Thibaudia (Bot. Mag., t. 5752). — A fine ericaceous plant, native of the Andes, from eight to ten thousand feet. A branching leafy evergreen shrub. The flowers in terminal racemes, tubular, of a bright red colour, with green tips. C(elogyne (Pleioxe) Reichenbachiana, Dr. BeielienbacK s Pleione (Bot. Mag., t. 5753). — The finest species of the Pleione group of Coelogyne known. The pseudo-bulbs are pitcher-shaped and mottled, the flowers comparatively large, the colours white and palest rose. Thapsia decipiens, Madeiran Thapsia (Bot. Mag., t. 5670). — Umbelliferse. A THAPSIA EECIPIE^S. EBODIUM UACBADEN1UH. remarkable palm-like umbellifer, met with in rocky gorges in the island of Madeira. In habit and foliage it is extremely elegant, and well worthy the attention of cul- tivators who are interested in the development of the " sub-tropical garden." Erodivm macradenutm, Spotted-flowered Storksbill (Bot. Mag., t. 5665). — A charming little hardy geranium, quite rare and unique. Native of the Pyrenees. Introduced by Messrs. Backhouse and Son. The leaves are one to two inches long, the flowers three-quarters of an inch in diameter, the colour purple, with dark spots. 123 THE GAEDEN GUIDE. Bar.— 29'92. Thkr.— 57, 39, 461. } Spttt. I Rain. — 1*6 in. Wind.— N.W., N.E. Gbeenhousb Flowebs. — Acacia longi- folia, magnifica, and pulchella ; Aphelexis rupestris grandi/lora ; Blamlfordia Cun- ninghamii ; Ghorozema cordata, splendent; Dielytra spectabilit; Dracoph i/llum gra- eile ; Erioxtemon neriifolium ; Leschenaul- tia biloba; Pimelia Hendersonii ; Poly- gala Dalmaisiana ; Statice prqfusa. Garden "Flowers. — Alysnim saxafile ; Aubrietia grandiflora, and grceca ; Wall- flowers, Cheirathus cheri ; American Cow- slip, Dodecathi on integrifoliu ; Gentian, Gentiana acanlis ; Scorpion Grass, Myo- sotis alpestris, and paluslris ; Primrose, Primula acaulis, vars. : P. cortutoides ; Catchfly, Silene pendula. The Weatheb. — As in last month, we rarely have southerly or westerly winds in April, and when the weathercock points N.E. the blast is keen and cold, with a metallic sky and brilliant sunshine. It is a trying month ; sharp night frosts frequent, with sleet for rain, and occasional sudden changes from blustering Boreas to sighing Zephyr. Flower Gaeden. — The planting of evergreens should be completed early this month. Stakes must be put to newly-planted trees, to keep them iirm, and prevent their being loosened with the wind. A good thick mulch over the roots will be of immense service. Water, if necessary, and prune evergreens. Sow seeds of bien- nials and perennials, and annuals for late blooming ; thin out those already up, and transplant or throw away. Finish dividing and planting herbaceous plants. Support the flower-stalks of pinks and carnations with neat sticks. Get in readiness the beds for ordinary " bedding stuff," dahlias, etc. Box, thrift, Stachys lanata, and other plants for edgings, may be planted, if done early in the month. Walks should be thoroughly rolled, to make them firm for the summer ; and grass plots dressed, to give everything an air of neatness and order. Gkeenholse. — Very little fire-heat must be itsed here now. Give plenty of air, to prevent the plants drawing, and shade during the bright sunshine, to enable the flowers to retain freshness as long as possible. Plants of all kinds will now require increased supplies of water, those in flower must not be allowed to suffer for the want of this element, or the flowers will soon drop. Sow primulas and cinerarias for early bloom, and place the seed pans in a shady corner until the plants are up. Lilium auratum, and the varieties of L. lancifoliura, will now require plenty of ■water. Place in a cold frame, where they can be freely exposed to the air, previous to being placed out of doors next month. This is much better than keeping them coddling in the greenhouse all the summer. Cytisus should be pruned into shape immediately they go out of flower, and directly they break, repotted. Autumn- struck and old plants of fuchsias will require shifting into larger pots ; cuttings put in in March will now want potting off. Keep the whole of the plants in a brisk growing temperature, well syringed and pinched, as required. Kemove cinerarias going out of bloom, if offsets are required, into a cold frame, and keep them properly watered, when they will soon begin to start. Tender annuals for greenhouse work must be kept potted on. Verbenas and petunias struck now, and grown on, will be Bulbous Flowers. — Wind Flower, Anemone stellata fulgent, Arum arisarum, and tenuifolium ; Fntillaria prrncox, and trisiis ; Crimean Snowdrop, Galanthus plicatus; Ifarcissus bifrons, and bulboco- dium; Star of Bethlehem, Ornithogalum umbellatum; Squill, Scilta italica; Wa- chendorfia brevifolia; Tulips, Hyacinths, and Anuryllis. Stove YuyvrY.n&.—Agalmyla staminea ; Clerodendron Tliompsonii ; Francitea ex- imea ; Ijiomea Learii ; Meyenia erecta ; Ixoraamboyensis ; Hoyabella; Gloxinias; Surlingtonia fragrant ;* Calanthe vera- iifolia ;* Cattleya mossim,* and Skinnerii ;* Cypripediu m barbatum* Dendrobiam Far- nieri* and Paxtoni ;* Odontoglossum cer- vardesi;* Oncidium ampliation majut* " As the earth bringeth forth her bud, and as the garden causeth the things that are sown in it to spring forth; so the Lord God will cause righteousness and praise to spring forth before all the nations." — Isa. Ixi. 11. 124 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. useful for flowering in the autumn. Pot hard-wooded plants that require a shift, and harden off those that have finished their growth, preparatory to going out of doors for the summer. Stove. — Cut down hegonias gone out of flower, and repot. Shift on the orna- mental-leaved kinds. Achimenes and gloxinias, repot before they get pot-bound. Keep the former near the glass, to prevent them drawing. Continue to shift orchids that require repotting, and divide those the stock ot which it is desired to increase. Maintain a thoroughly moist atmosphere by throwing plenty of water on the floor, but avoid syringing them for the present. Shut up early, and use as little fire-heat as possible. Train specimen plants of a climbing habit, such as Stephanotis, as fast as they make new growth, to prevent their getting out of form. All the plants that require a shift must have it at once, as better growth will be made in the fresh soil than in that which is now worn out ; syringe freely. Kitchen Garden. — Like last month, an unusual amount of forethought and activity is required in this department just now. Old stumps of winter greens, that are likely to produce a few more gatherings, should be taken up, and laid in by their heels in some spare corner, and the ground they are now occupying turned up. Plant out cabbage and lettuce raised in cold frame. Cauliflowers from the frames should be planted out the first week of this month ; sow for late autumn supplies. Dress asparagus beds ; sow for main crops. Beet, broccoli, cabbage, cardoons, carrots, celeriac, celery for late crop (prick out early sown), chicory, endive, kidney beans (towards the end of the month), parsnips, salsafy, scorzonera. For successional crops — lettuce, radishes, cress, mustard, spinach, turnips, peas, and other vegetables ; plant out crops from the seed beds when large enough. Keep the hoe at work amongst crops of all kinds. Earth up and stick peas, to prevent their getting blown about. Seeds of sweet and pot herbs that still remain unsown must be got in at once. Those sown in heat should be pricked off into small pots or cold frame, to well harden off before planting out. Prepare trenches for celery, and put at least six inches of good i-otten manure in the bottom, and just cover with soil. The spaces between the rows may be occupied with lettuces and radishes. Get in all crops that ought to have been sown last month as early as possible, for every day adds to the risk of the crops coming to perfection. Seakale for forcing can be raised in one season, if the small side-roots, or " thongs," are now planted in rows in good rich soil. This is also a good time for sowing seed of this vegetable. Remove flower- spikes of rhubarb, unless it is intended to save seed, for they weaken the roots. All salading, like lettuce, endive, and radishes, must have rich soil after this season, otherwise they will make a slow growth, and be wanting in that crisp succulence so essential to them. Small salading is of little service through the summer, unless grown in a shady position, in a cold frame, or under handlights. Potatoes in heavy cold soils must now be planted. Protect early kinds now peeping through the ground, by drawing a little soil over them. Fruit Garden. — All pruning ought to be finished before this, with the exception of the fig, which must be done early this month. Continue to protect peaches and nectarines ; care, however, must be exercised, so that the young growth is not drawn weak and spindly through too thick a covering. If blinds of tiffany or canvas are used, roll them up during the day, but where branches of fir or fern are used, about half the quantity should now be taken off. When coddled too much, the young shoots suffer considerably when fully exposed. Thin out apricots, and dis- bud ; but proceed cautiously and gradually, so as not to produce too great a check. Lay long litter from the stable between the strawberry rows, which will serve the double purpose of strengthening the plants with the salts washed out of it, and at the same time keep the fruit clean. Remove all runners that are not wanted for layering ; they only rob the plants, impoverish the soil, and take U2) more time in clearing them away after they once get rooted into the soil. Forcing. — Cucumbers and melons must be carefully handled just now. Hang mats or canvas over the openings during the prevalence of north or east winds. Shut up early in the day, and give the foliage a moderate syringing before doing so. See that the bed is a proper degree of moisture throughout its depth, and if it requires watering, use water at a temperature of 75'. Where the bottom-heat is supplied entirely by fire heat, particular attention must be paid to this point in their culture. Pay frequent attention to stopping, training, and regulating the shoots. Fertilize the female flowers of the melon. The temperature of the various vineries THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 125 must be gradually increased as the days lengthen, and the sun gains power. The shoots of the vines in the late house are generally very brittle early in the day, when they get to the proper length for tying out, therefore the training of these should not he done until after the sun has been shining upon them for three or four hours, which will make them more pliable, and less likely to snap off. In the other houses, stopping and regulating the shoots must be done as circumstances demand ; it is bad practice to stop during the time the grapes are stoning. Thin out before the berries get crowded in the bunch, and avoid cold currents of air passing over them. Cold chills at this period of their existence are very frequent causes of "rust." The inside borders must not, on any account, be allowed to get too dry ; examine them two or three feet below the surface. As the fruit of the figs begin to swell, increase the moisture and heat. Peaches and nectarines will now be making considerable progress. The night temperature should now range about 60° or 65% with a rise of ten degrees during the day. Dishud, tie in the shoots, and thin the fruit, as may be necessary. The last operation must be performed with a sparing hand, as the stoning process is a critical time for these fruits to go through. Syringe twice a day, and keep the borders properly watered. Pines ripening off must have rather a dry atmosphere, and a temperature of 80' or 853, with an extra five degrees by the aid of the sun. Plants shifted recently must not have much water until the pots begin to get full of roots. All vegetables now being forced must be freely ex- posed to light and nir. The mushroom house must have a temperature of about 65°, and a moist atmosphere. Collect horse-droppings for new beds. Pit and Frames. — Auriculas will now require more water ; shade from strong sunshine. Turn out the whole of the bedding plants into cradles, wher3 they can be protected with mats, if the frames are required for other purposes ; if not, draw off the lights, except during frosts. Herbs, tomatoes, vegetable marrows, etc., must receive full exposure to the external air, to enable them to go out sturdy and strong. Prepare the frames for growing summer cucumbers, melons, and chilies. Plants requiring to be grown on briskly should be shut up early, and have a skiff with the syringe before shutting up. NEW BOOKS. Gleanings from French Gardens. By W. Robinson, F.L.S. (Warne, Bedford Street, Covent Garden). — This is the second edition of a book to which we gave a hearty welcome a year ago. It is so agreeably written and so rich in information calculated to improve our position and multiply our out-door enjoy- ments, that we hope every one of our readers will secure it quickly. A Contribution to the Flora of Australia. By William Wools, F.L.S. (Sydney, F. "White : Melbourne, G. Robertson). — A capital book of its kind, far more rich in interest for English readers than the title would indicate. It is a pity (so we think at leas*) that there is no name of an English publisher on the title- page, for it is likely many purchasers might be found here for the book, who will not trouble to send to Australia for it. Synopsis Filicum ; or, a Synopsis of all Known Ferns. By the late Sir W. J. Honker, and J. G. Baker. (Hardwicke, 192, Piccadilly). — In this beautiful octavo volume we have Sir W. J. Hooker's last revision of the classification of the Filices, admirably completed by Mr. Baker. We cannot recommend the book to the thousands who grow a few ferns, and who want to know just " a little" about them, but the collector and the botanist will find it a grand storehouse of technical information ; and as to the place of any particular species, it matters not how authorities differ, if we are to consider the question at all, we must consult this work in the course of the consideration. It is a sort of backbone for a library of fern literature. Practical Floriculture. By Peter Henderson. (New York : Judd and Company, 245, Broadway). — We have " dipped into" this book, and like it much. Being American, it is, as mi<*ht be expected, free from much of that evident plagi- arism which characterizes English books on floriculture, which, in great part, are copied one from another with sufficient alteration for evasion of the law. But, being American, it is none the less useful for English cultivators ; for, after all, a 126 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GOIDE. pink or a dahlia needs similar treatment in the west as in the east, and we can recommend it as a guide for cultivators, and a model for authors and compilers. American Horticultural Annual, 1869. (New York, Judd and Co.) — An excellent resume of horticultural affairs, from which the bold Briton who is " in for it" in earnest in horticultural matters may obtain valuable information. As a matter of course, many of the fruits, and perhaps a few other subjects described in this wort, are of importance only to American cultivators. The Gardener's Record. (Edtnondson, 9, Dame Street, Dublin). — We cannot afford space to say as much as we should like about this work, but we give it a hearty welcome as a new and able representative of Irish horticulture. It is pub- lished fortnightly, is well got up, contains articles by safe men who know all about Irish n^ds, and whatever else is required to render this work trustworthy and valuable. List 3f Perennials. T. S. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham. — Though coming to us in the form of a trade catalogue, this is so valuable and important a "work that we notice it here that it may have the attention of all our readers. Mr. Ware has satisfied a great and long-felt want in the publication of this catalogue, in which are enumerated and sufficiently described about three thousand species and varieties of hardy plants. We might, perhaps, find a few mistakes if we were to look for them, but we have been so much pleased with the plan, and its execution generally, that we are in no mood to find fault. Every lover of hardy plants should send seven stamps to Mr. Ware, and secure a copy while it is yet in print, for a list similar to this, but not so good, was published a few years ago, and went out of print almost immediately, and the greatest inconvenience has been felt for the want of it. The Canary; its Varieties, Management, and Breeding. By the Rev. Francis Smith (Groombridge and Sons). — One of the most delightful books of the kind we have ever had the privilege of opening. The worthy author understands his subject well, as he is bound to, but his style is most fascinating, and tinctured with such a genial spirit, that we were positively sorry when we had read the volume to the end, as we did on the first day it reached us. However, we intend to drown that sorrow in the joy of another perusal. Ye who love birds, give, your- selves a treat by ordering this pretty book. Received. — The Gai-dener's Magazine for March. —Report of Queensland Acclimatisation Society. Want of space compels us thus to dispose of an inte- resting pamphlet, which deserves much more attention. — The Treasury of Lite- rature and Ladies' Treasury is one of the best periodicals published for family reading, and the special amusement and advantage of the ladies. — The Student and Intellectual Observer is as remarkable for its splendid illustrations as for its ori- ginality, learning, and variety. It so admirably reflects the successive phases of scientific experiment and inquiry, as to be indispensable to students of every class and every age, while for elegance and interest it is one of the most attractive books for the table. PLANTS EECOMMENDED. Williams's Hybrid Solanums. — These are now compounded as it were ; in- stead of six varieties named and sold separately, there is but one by name, the seeds of all the sorts being mixed and offered at a cheap rate. It is a folly to grow Solanum capsicastrum any longer in its original unimproved form, for the berries of Williams's strain are about twice as large as those of the original plants, and of a finer colour, and as abundantly produced. For the decoration of the green- house in winter and early spring, these plants, with their bright green leaves and glowing scarlet berries, are invaluable. New Coleus. — As many of our readers will speculate in the new coleus for bedding out, and as it is now time to propagate them for that purpose, we recom- mend a few which we believe will be A 1 for the purpose. DuJce of Edinburgh (Bull), is a very handsome kind, with fine stout leaf of a yellowish buff colour, the centre splashed with reddish chocolate ; will no doubt make a gorgeous bed. THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 127 of St. John's Wood (E. G. Henderson). — If this should ever again present the colours it had in 1868, it will be one of the grandest leaf bedders known. It is a sport from C. Verschaffelti, which is greatly in its favour. The prevailing colours are golden yellow and a tone of red inclining to scarlet. Crimson Velvet (Bull). — A small-leaved crimson variety, very rich in colour, and fully justifying its attractive name. Hendersoni. — A fine flat ovate leaf, of a rich reddish chocolate colour, edged with golden green. This and Marshalli are so much alike, that no one needs both. Bausei. — Very large leaf, deeply frilled, margin bright green, centre of leaf blackish purple. Allamanda nobilis surpasses all others for exhibition purposes, but the next best undoubtedly is A. Hendersoni (alias Wardleiana). For description, see " Garden Oracle," p. 64. Gesnera Exoniensis. — As it is now the best time to purchase this plant, we recommend it as one of the finest of its class, and a decided novelty, the peculiar orange red of its flowers and the rich velvety crimson of its leaves rendering it a most attractive plant in the stove. We have succeeded in figuring the leaf some- thing like life in No. XL of " Beautiful-leaved Plants," and a figure of the flowers isjnow in the hands of the readers of the Floral World. No one will regret having purchased this plant on our recommendation. TO CORRESPONDENTS. Plants for the Flower-garden A Lady Gardener, York. — You need be in little trouble about not having sufficient plants for your flower-garden, as you say you have a few pots full of cuttings of each kind. Begin, in the first place, by getting together a few loads of stable manure. Let it be well shaken out, and then turned over three or four times. If it gets dry in the centre of the heap, throw a few pails of water over it during the turning over process. When it is well sweet- ened, build it up in a bed upon which the frame is to be placed. It should be large enough to allow about a foot width round the frame. After the frame has been placed on the hotbed a day or two, spread over the bottom about six inches of coal- ashes, in which to plunge the cutting pots, and then all will be ready for their reception. The frame being ready, the next important step is to put the cuttings in. Begin by taking some clean five-inch pots, putting two inches of crocks in the bottom, and then fill with light sandy soil, such as loam, leaf-mould, and sand mixed together and sifted. This must be pressed in firm, and half an inch of sand put on the top and watered. The cuttings can be taken off either at a joint or not, and if dibbled in carefully, they will soon take root. When the cuttings are in- serted, give them a sprinkle through a fine rose to settle the sand, and plunge in the ashes. A little air must be left on at all times to allow the escape of any noxious gas from the manure, and the cuttings shaded from the sun. You might propagate in the way described above verbenas, petunias, heliotropes, lobelias, etc., etc. A hed like this would also be invaluable forgetting up Amaranthus, Perilla, Cannas, Phlox Drummondi, Castor-oils, and other annuals suited for bedding from seed. Silvery edging Plants. — E. G. S-, Kingston. — There are plenty of plants suitable for the purpose. Centaurea ragusina, from six to nine inches in height, is, without doubt, unequalled, but it requires shelter during the winter. It will stand out of doors in ordinary winters, but the plants get too high for edgings the following summer. It is much the best to raise a stock of young plants every year. Stachys lanata forms a good edging for long borders, but it is rather too coarse for select beds. It is readily propagated by division. Edgings of this ought to be taken up and replanted every year, or the flower-spikes will give an enormous amount of trouble throughout the season, besides the band getting too wide, and presenting a ragged appearance. Veronica incana is one of the very best hardy edging plants in existence. You should have seen it at Battersea Park last summer. Cerastium tomentosnm is also good. It ought to be taken up every year, and replanted, and cut in twice during the season, to keep it regular and neat. 128 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE Eucharis amazonica, not flowering. — X. Y. Z. — The Eucharis requires a stove temperature to grow and flower it properly. The portion of plant inclosed is from Epiphyllum truncatum, which also reqnires a stove. You will do no good with either in a greenhouse. One of Miss Maling's " Indoor Plant Cases" would answer admirably for striking a few cuttings. Pruning " own root" Roses. — A. M., Brampton Brian. — Cut the strong shoots back to three or four buds. Never mind their having pushed the top buds. There will be less likelihood of the bottom buds not yet started being injured by spring frost. The pressure on our time will not permit us to answer any inquiries through the post. Propagating Aucubas. — A Subscriber. — The male aucuba can be propagated by grafting on the common one. It should be done at once. Tongue grafting is the best. "We prefer cuttings. Take them off with a small heel if practicable, and insert firmly in a rather shady border some time through July or August. The holly can also be grafted. It is Ilex aquifolium fructo-luteo. Ornamental Foliage Plants for Greenhouse. — C. G. M., Rochdale. — The great bulk of fine foliage plants either require a stove or are at rest during the winter, more particularly those with variegated leaves. The following twelve are amongst the best : — Aralia Sieboldi variegata, Arundo donax variegata, Aspi- distra lurida variegata, Chamcerops Fortunei, Cordyline indivisa, Draccena aus- tralis, Echeveria metallica, Lomatia ferruginea, Phormium tenax variegatum, Seaforthia elegans, Veronica Andersoni variegata, Yucca aloifolia variegata. Procure the lilies at once. You will find all the information needed in last month's number. Hyacinths. — A Subscriber, — As you have treated your bulbs in exactly the same way as last year, we fancy they must have been defective in quality. Soft, badly-ripened bulbs seldom throw good spikes. Forcing too fast, or before the bulbs are nicely rooted, will account for the flower-spikes not rising above the foliage. Weak manure water occasionally will be of great assistance to the bulbs after they have filled the pots with roots. There can be little doubt that your bulbs are not quite so good as formerly. White Lilies. — A Little One. — You will not be able to have a succession of the above from April to September out of doors, but by planting the white sorts recommended by us in the last number, you can have them in June and two following months. You can purchase L. candidum and L. longijlorum for three or four shillings per dozen, L. eximeum for about nine shillings. We do not undertake to speak positively about the prices of anything in the plant way. Prices vary at different houses, and according to quality. " Paxton's Botanical Dictionary," 25s., and " Grindon's Manual of Plants," published by Pitman at 4s., would be the best books for you, though the descriptions are not quite so full as you appear to require. To speak the plain truth, there is not in existence a garden plant book thoroughly well adapted to the wants of amateurs. Spir.'EA palmata. — Colonel Harcourt and others. — We were not aware when penning our notes on Spirreas, that this glorious plant had as yet found a place in any trade collection ; but we now learn that Mr. Noble, nurseryman, Sunningdale, near Bagshot, Surrey, has it. We have seen the plant once only, and that was at one of the Eoyal Horticultural Society's exhibitions last summer. We know not if Mr. Noble has any stock, or is as yet prepared to sell. The shortest way for any of our friends who hunger for the plant, will be to write to Mr. Noble on the subject. It is unquestionably one of the grandest hardy herbaceous plants at present known. Stony Ground and Shady Border. — R. G. — The mad freak of sifting all the soil of a garden was first recommended in " Chambers's Information for the People," a work which is lamentably deficient in its treatment of subjects requiring practical knowledge, though admirable in many respects as a mere compilation. Have the soil of the garden well dug and manured, and as to the stones, be content to rake off large ones, and leave little ones alone. To remove all the stones from a piece of ground (happily a thing next to impossible) would do no good, but positive harm, for the soil would become a paste, and nothing would grow in it. You might grow under the shade of the lime trees a collection of varieties of Primroses, Polyanthuses, Veronica spicata, Lysimachia thyrsiflora, (Enothera Fraseri, Solomon's Seal (this attains marvellous perfection in the deepest shade of trees), most of the Aconites and Delphiniums, common Christmas Rose, and all the large-growing species of British Ferns. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. M A Y, 1 8 G 9 . ON COLLECTING AND CULTIVATING ALPINE PLANTS. With illustration of a group of Alpine Flowers. BY 3VTES. T. TV". "WEBB. HE cultivation of Alpine plants is a subject that has been discussed in the publications of twenty years ago or more, and no doubt experience has very materially assisted their treatment in this country ; but, as the scarcer sorts are expensive to purchase, and often diffi- cult to rear, it may not be uninteresting to the readers of this useful magazine to get a few hints as to the method of bringing them from Switzerland — a point of material consequence, which I have not seen referred to — and, when brought, the plan to be adopted for their management. Having very frequently visited Switzerland, and feel- ing more and more interested in the country — with its beautiful scenery, wonderful heights, and snowy ranges — I often longed to bring back some of the lovely flowers which not only grow in abun- dance in the valleys and on the higher summits of the Alps, but even adorn the glaciers and moraines. I have been told by many travellers that they had often attempted to bring roots from Switzer- land, but the difficulty in rearing them afterwards was very great, and though some few plants appeared to grow, they gradually died oif in the course of two or three years. Undoubtedly there are good reasons for this failure, as the conditions under which they grow in the two countries are essentially different. In Switzerland they are protected (at least the more mountainous kinds) by a coat- ing of snow throughout the winter, which prevents the injurious effects of the alternation of frost and thaw, from which delicate plants suffer so much in our own country. They have also in their original soil a great amount of natural drainage, combined with a mixture of sand, decayed leaves, and peat ; and in this native soil they luxuriate. This is of a kind not ordinarily found in England; for we are obliged to prepare mould fitted to receive Alpine roots. VOL. IV. — NO. V. 9 130 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. The air, also, of Switzerland, is in general much drier than our own. Of course some of these plants require more moisture than others, such as the Soldanella and Primula farinosa, but such a condition of damp soil is to be found on the high mountains as well as in the watered valleys of that country : for instance, on the Rigi Scheideck, 5408 feet above the sea, these lovely species grow in great abundance in the peaty fields leading to the summit called the Dossen, between the Eigi Kulm and the Scheideck ; and they are equally found, between Reichenau and Tusis, in the valley of the Hinter Rhein, where the pretty fringed blossom of the Soldanella, combined with the purple crimson of the Primula farinosa, give a brilliancy to the fields absolutely dazzling. Though the sun must be very powerful at the time they are in blossom, the constant dump from the watery meadows in which they grow, keeps them from being burnt and shrivelled. In England we have no lack of moisture, and so far the conditions are similar ; but then, again, there is much less power in the sun to counteract it. In short, the great difficulty we have to contend with in the cultivation of Swiss plants in our country, is the uncertainty of climate, aud our inability to accommodate each plant with a locality similar to that of its native growth. The Swiss flora is so beautiful that it is well worthy of every effort we may make in cultivating it. It is well known how completely we have succeeded in naturalizing the Gentiana acaulis and some other Swiss plants, but there are still many well deserving our notice which are expensive to purchase and difficult to rear. It may not be uninteresting to my readers if I enter more particularly into the method I adopted for the transfer of roots from Switzerland, and for their cultivation in our country. Having heard from a friend that the only possible hope of bringing home flower-roots would be to pack, or rather plant them, in moss, I had two deal boxes made, 1 foot 8 inches long, 1 foot 3 inches wide, and 4 inches in depth, fitted up with divisions about 3^ inches square, and lids to drop over them, much like the lace boxes used in shops ; two or three holes were pierced at the bottom of each compartmeut for drainage, and when the squares were filled with damp moss, they were ready for the reception of roots. There is sometimes a diffi- culty in finding moss near the locality of flowers. I therefore took the precaution of supplying my boxes with a moderate quantity of moss before leading England, and, having two straps to secure them, I carried them about with our luggage, much to the astonishment of the custom-house officials in Paris, who concluded that they con- tained lace, and very eagerly unstrapped them, and as speedily gave up the search oii finding damp moss. When we went in search of plants, I found it better to carry a tin case, which is sold in most towns in Switzerland for botanical purposes, and this, with a frail, and a fern-trowel (a very useful implement, to be purchased at Buck's, Tottenham Court Road), proved very efficient for collecting roots. On our return from floral researches, the roots were all carefully planted (after getting rid of most of the mould) in the compartments of my deal boxes, with plenty of moss about the roots, which pre- L. ALP I - VERS, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GLIDE. 131 vented the possibility of the delicate fibres being ground, in travel- ling, by gritty and gravelly particles : sometimes I had three or four roots planted together, as it kept them more firmly in their places. As long as I remained stationary during our travels, the boxes were uncovered night and day, watering carefully when necessary, and now and then examining them, in case of mildew, placing them in the sun during the early morning for a few hours. During our long journeys, my first care, after arriving, was to uncover the boxes, and if possible give the plants fresh air throughout the night, and so enabling them to bear the confinement of a box life. The process of their culture on reaching home was as follows : — As soon as the treasures were unpacked from their journey of many hundreds of miles, they were carefully planted in some old boxes filled first with cinders, then a compost of white sand, peat, and leaf-mould ; and these boxes were placed in a moderate hot-bed, covered over at night by a light frame of wood, with coarse, stout canvas stretched over it to prevent heavy rain and wind injuring the young shoots. The gentle warmth from this management, with occasional watering, encourages the plants to form fresh roots, and, as soon as they appear to make any steady amount of growth, they are planted off into a rockwork constructed in the following manner : — Select some large stones, as rugged as you can get them, with old trunks of trees placed firmly on beds of clay, leaving plenty of hollow spaces for planting. Throw iuto these spaces a deep layer of broken crocks, at least one foot deep, then fill up with a mixture of leaf-mould, peat, and white sand, equal parts ; cocoa-nut fibre refuse will do as well as peat. Alpine plants love this soil, and good drainage, and if the aspect of your rockwork i3 not too sunny, you will find very little trouble in the culture of these lovely gems, except in the winter and during the cold spring, for they are then deprived of their natural covering of deep snow, and the cold thaws, followed by severe frosts, are a great injury to them. This evil may in a measure be remedied by fastening hoops of withy across the rockwork, and covering it with a light canvas tacked to the hoops. This artificial snow keeps oft' the effects of cold wind and severe frost, and can easily be removed on warmer days. After the first year, branches of gorse bushes, placed over the plants, protect them from frost without crushing them. The result of this treatment has been very successful, and my Alpine plants have flourished and increased rapidly, blossoming in great beauty at the same season they formerly did in their native land. It is very interesting to watch the growth of these attractive plants, so widely differing in character; one may like to spread over the rocks, another in decayed wood ; and the lovely Linaria alpina delights in gravelly, sandy soil, which would prove too dry for the Soldanella and others. Morell, in his " Scientific G-uide to Switzer- land," tells us that the genuine Alpine class of plants of the moun- tain region are remarkable as having no narcotic or poisonous species among them, and that the predominant chemical element in them is of an astringent nature, accompanied by a bitter taste. Tie also tells us that " cultivation in the hill region has so complete!'-" 132 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. transformed the surface and flora of that region, that only a few varieties still remain of the wild plants which formed the original clothing " of that district, and " many have entirely disappeared." "What an extensive flora Switzerland possesses compared with other countries in Europe! " Weber's Alpenflanzen" gives us four hundred, but, unless he brings out a fifth volume, he has failed to insert several important species, with their varieties. Morell speaks of the varied tints of the same plants under different aspects, and I have frequently observed, in travelling from one district to another, that Saponaria ocymoides is of a deeper rose colour on the mountain called La Flegere, above Chamounix, than the same species growing on the banks of the gorge of the Dala, between Leukerbad and Susten ; and Primula farinosa is more lilac on the Rigi Scheideck than the plants that cover the fields near Tusis, at the entrance of the Via Mala. On my own rockwork their blossom has a crimson tinge. Morell says that the brilliancy of the tints of the upper Alpine flowers " has been ascribed to the pure snow-water nourishing their roots, to the greater excitement of the light, and to the refined purity of the air." We cannot hope for such advantages in our amateur attempts in the culture of these lovely strangers, but it is delightful to look upon even a few of them, and their delicate forms and hues carry us back to the favourite haunts and superb scenery of Switzerland, and prove a lasting remembrance, and a living diary of wonders and beauties not to be described by books or paintings. The following is a list of the plants that have flourished since my first collection in 1861 : — Anemone alpina Gemmi Pass May to July. Ranunculus glacialis and alpestris . . Furca July> Aug. Diaba frigida „ „ stellata Several passes June, July. Sauteri ,, „ Viola biflora Mountain districts May to Aug. Diantbus barbatus Tourtemagne June to Aug. ■ alpinus Great Scbeideck ,, glacialis Rosenlaui July, Aug. Saponaria ocymoides Frequent, La Flegere April to Aug. Trifolium alpinum JUggischhorn June to Aug. Dryas octopetala . . . . , Furca ,, Saxifraga oppositifolia Grindelwald July* Aug. aizoides Rosenlaui ,, aizoon Via Mala ,, rotundifolia Great Scheideck June to Aug. Homogyne alpina Rigi Scbeideck May, June. Aster alpinus „ ,, Campanula excisa Ragatz July, Aug. ■ ■ Morelliana Rosenlaui „ Rhododendron hirsutum Rigi Scheideck May to July. Gentiana asclepiadea ,, . Aug., Sept. Frohlickii „ July, Aug. pumila ,, ,, bavarica ,, ,, imbricata „ ,, Linavia alpina Seed from Grindelwald .... „ Veronica bellioides Rigi Scheideck ,, THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 133 Veronica saxatilis Eigi Sclieideck July, Aug. Primula farinosa . , „ June, July. auricula Kandersteg April, May. spectabilis Rosenlaui J"'y, Aug. Soldanella alpina Eigi Scheideck May to July montana ,, „ Cyclamen Europreum . . . v Furca Aug. to Oct. Globularia corditblia iEggischhorn May, June. Anthericum liliago Leukerbad „ Epilobium Dodonai Grindelwald glacier July, Aug. Sempervivum montanum iEggischhorn ,, arachnoideum ,, ,, This list contains but forty out of many hundreds, hut others have not been included, having only recently been planted, and having not yet had the trial of a winter. Others are also of a larger growth, not suitable for rockwork. It will be understood that the localities specified are not the only ones in which I have found these plants. A description of the flowers in the coloured plate will enable the reader to identify them. The large, pale flower at the top is Catananclie ccerulea (too high for rockwork). The blue, next to the right, is a Gentian, unnoticed by Weber. Below this, on the same side, is the elegant flower of Anthericum liliago (also too high for rockwork). Immediately under the Gatananche is the Gentiana asclepiadea (too high for rockwork). On the left of this is the dark red Cyclamen Europceum. Beneath is a little white group, Androsace villosa, and further down the crimson JDianthus barbatus. In the centre of the plate we find the Aster alpinus, to the right of which is the Primula spectabilis, and beneath this last are the pretty bells of the Soldanella alpina. Between these and the Aster alpinus is a Gentian which I have not identified. To the left of this are two other Gentians ; the lilac group is Gentiana campestris, that beneath it, of vivid blue, Gentiana purnil a ; on the left of the former is the little yellow Viola biflora; and beyond this, a small yellow bunch of the Draba Sauteri. Beneath the yellow violet we see the delicate Soldanella pusilla ; and below this again, two purple and pink clusters, the Primula farinosa and the Dianthus glaeialis, or glacier pink. The white flower next to the bright blue gentian is Dryas octopetala; its pinky- white neighbour is Gypsophylla muralis. To the right of this, below, is the pink Epilobium JDodonoei ; beneath which is the delicate little Linaria alpina, whose purple and orange blossoms decorate the pass of the Great St. Bernard and the rugged sides of Pilatus, as well as the moraines of Grindelwald. (I find this plant, as raised from the seed sold in England, considerably different in height, colour, and form of leaves from those growing from the seed I brought from the glaciers at Grindelwald.) The yellow group on the opposite side is the Primula auricula ; and the centre plant at the bottom is Globularia cordifolia. 134 A FEW GOOD BULBOUS PLANTS FOR SUMMER ^ND AUTUMN FLOWERING. BY J. E. M'ELBOY, Head Gardener, lloray Lodge, Campden Hill. LITTLE judgment in selecting, knowledge of cultural details, and the aid of a greenhouse or a few pits, are sufficient to insure a display of bulbous plants every day in the year. Notwithstanding this fact, very few plant-growers trouble themselves about bulbous plants beyond the customary display of Dutch bulbs in the spring. I shall not give a list of all that can be had in bloom throughout the year, or even all that can be had in bloom through the two quarters of it named above. To do that would be of no more service than simply naming a good trade catalogue in which a list of bulbs is to be found. Running over long lists certainly does more harm than good, and frightens the would-be cultivator into the belief that it is necessary to have the lot or none ; or, at all events, leaves him in such a mist that he is unable to pick out the best. Now I will do that for him, and name such only as are easy to grow, easy to procure, and which will, by the beauty of their flowers, repay the cultivator for his labour. AGAPANTHUS UMBELLATUS. As it is my intention to name those only which are more remark- able for their beauty than a high price, I shall take first the African lily, Agapanthus umbellatus, which everybody either does know, or ought to know, for it is one of the very best flowering plants we have through the whole of July and the first week or two in August. The culture is very simple. The plants must be potted in good fibry loam and rotten manure, two parts of the former to one of the latter, and with a good drainage. The size of the pot must depend upon that of the plant, but large specimens in thirteen-inch pots produce the grandest effect. Give the plants plenty of water when in full growth, and keep dry during the winter. Any outhouse will suit them through the winter, provided no frost can get to them, and they must have some amount of light.; In the summer, stand them out of doors in a shady position until they come into bloom, when, if they are wanted for indoor decoration, they can be shifted to the conservatory ; if not, they have a fine effect placed singly on the lawn. After the beauty of the flowers is past, place them in the full sun to thoroughly ripen the bulbs, for their blooming next year depends in a large measure upon how they are matured in the autumn. The white variety is pretty, but not equal to the blue. Beatoa gemmlfloba, with its pretty crimson pentstemon-like flowers, is another fine subject. The soil should be rather sandier than that advised for the preceding. Camassia escelenta, like the Bravoa, flowers in July, requires peat and loam. The flowers are rich purple. THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 135 EUCOMIS. This is certainly one of the grandest subjects we can have for the early part of autumn, as it remains iu flower such a length of time. The flower-spikes arc about two feet in height, the top half resembling a fox-brush in shape, the small waxy flowers being set on so close together. The flowers are white, spotted with rose, and powerfully fragrant. The plant will require much the same treat- ment as advised for the Agapanthus, but should have the protection of the greenhouse all the winter. The way I treat them is to pot three or four bulbs in each pot directly the foliage has died away, and place them in a dry part of the greenhouse ; and, as they begin to push, shift them to a cold frame, and about the second week in May stand them out of doors until they are nicely in flower. When growing under glass, the plants must be close to it and have plenty of air, as the foliage loses that beautiful spotted appearance which contributes so much to its beauty. I only divide them when I want to increase the stock, as specimens with ten or twelve large massive spikes have a noble effect, for at least six weeks, in the conservatory. It will do very well planted close to a wall out of doors, but the wet soon spoils the delicate colour of the flowers. Eucomis punctata and E. rec/ia are the only two I know ; they are both good, but I like the first best. THE ELEMANTncS Is another fine genus, but quite distinct from anything yet named. It is rather more expensive, too, but it should be grown by everybody who has a greenhouse or conservatory, particularly those who exhibit collections of stove and greenhouse plants in the autumn. The plants require good loam, and peat, and well-decayed leaf-mould, in about equal quantities, and a thorough good drainage of broken crocks. A moderate quantity of water is required through the summer, but only just enough to keep the foliage from drying up through the winter. The foliage of these, like a few others, remains evergreen all the winter ; but, if the plants get too much water, they will assuredly receive considerable injury, and flower unsatisfactorily the following season. If two sorts only are wanted, select H. albi- jlorus, white, and H. coccineus, bright red ; and, for four, add H. pubescens, white, and H. punicens, scarlet. Every one of the four is worth a place iu the most select collection of flowering plants. THE PA>'CR1TIUM. The species of Pancratium have the good qualities of having handsome, sweetly-scented flowers, which are produced abundantly through the summer. All will do well under similar treatment to that recommended for the Hseinanthus. JP. calatliinum and P. illy- ricum are two of the best. The Amaryllids furnish us with a lot of subjects which are both fnl , and not trouble about propagating them yourself. Early-flowering Pelargoniums. — T. S., Northampton.— None of the fancy varieties are sufficiently early to flower in February. The following are all good for early flowering, but none of the early sorts have such well-finished flowers as the best varieties which bloom in May ; Gauntlet is still the best winter flowerer. You will do well to add the following six early bloomers to your collection : — Clarissa, crimson and pink; Etna, vermilion-scarlet, with black spots on top petals ; Flamingo, lake- crimson ; Minnie, white, with rosy spot on top petals ; Snowdrop, pure white, with purple blotch ; Premier, rosy-pink, crimson spot. The undermentioned are amongst 160 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. the best of the fancies, and by getting them established in their blooming pots early in the autumn, and not stopping them after Christmas, you can have them in flower much earlier than usual: — Acme, Ann Page, Countess Waldegrave, Godfrey Turner, Miss Louisa Pyne, Mrs. Dorling, Silver Mantle, and Negro. The fine specimen of Cycla- men persicum you have, reflects great credit upon your cultural skill ; without doubt this subject will become one of the most popular winter and spring decorative plants ■we have. Bedding-out Clematis. — Subscriber.— Uvbro violacea, Jackmanii rubella, and the other one you name, will do well in a bed out of doors. Plant them at once, and prune them moderately : they are quite hardy, and even were they to be cut back in the winter like own-root roses, they would soon renew themselves from the underground part of the stem. Azaleas and Camellias. — Ibid. — Something is wrong at the roots of the latter to cause the flowers to drop directly they expand. If the soil in the pots is not sour and a lar^e portion of roots dead, the plants have suffered some time back from being allowed to get too dry, though not sufficiently so to cause the buds to drop off at the time or before they open. Just as the plants begin to start into growth in the spring is a "ood time for repotting both these subjects, or after they have finished the season's orowfb. towards the end of the summer. We cannot tell you how often the plants ought to be shifted, but as a rough guide we may say that when the plants are pot-bound may be taken as a guide for their requiring a shift. Once a year will be sufficient for young specimens, and once in every two years for older plants that have attained a considerable size. Shrubs for Plunging.— IJ/rf.— Aucubas, Tree Box, green and variegated, Ivies trained to trellises, Ehododendron ponticum, Berberis Darwini, Cotoneaster microphylla, Euonymus, green and variegated varieties, and the Japanese Privet, are all good for this purpose. Le Grande Boule d'Neige is a fine white bedding verbena. Floral World. — Yours is too long a letter for us to read ; we have about twenty such every week the whole year round : were we to read them and attempt to carry out the suggestions they contain, we should need to be divided into a thousand pieces, with head and hands to each, and perhaps find that we had in our quiet labours actually anticipated a greater part of all the proposals made. From a hasty glance at the first page of your letter of fourteen pages, we believe we have worked out to the last letter the very subjects you purpose we should now begin ; but if people will not read, what is that to us ? We cannot find them out and compel them to follow in our ways. _ Plants for Greenhouse. — Well-wisher. — The following dozen are all distinct and good : Acacia arinata, A. Drummondii, Azalea The Bride, A. Stella, Camellia Alba'plena, C. imbricata, Chorozema cordatum splendens, Polygala oppositifolia, Vallota purpurea, Pioemanthus coccineus, Lilium auratum, and Veronica Andersonii. Pyrethrum "Golden Feather." — W.W.— You will experience some difficulty in getting cuttings taken from the open border to strike now. You had better invest a shilling in a packet of seed and sow it at once. If kept in a warm corner of the house it will soon be up and make nice little plants. The ivy-leaved pelargoniums do well cither in pots or planted out as an edging to tall-growing subjects. In the first case thev are trained to trellises in much the same way as climbing plants, and in the latter they are pegged down. Subscriber, Castle-town. — The subjects you refer to will have attention ; in the meantime we may remind you that the cultivation of the rose has received more attention in the Floral World than in any other horticultural periodical, as may be seen by reference to the series of papers commenced in July, 1860, which, en- larged and rearranged, were afterwards embodied in the " Rose Book." Pelargoniums0 for Forcing. — T. S. — The best two varieties known are Gauntlet and Alba floribunda ; the next best are Crimson King, Brilliant, Empress, Dr. Andre, and Alma : after these you may select at random. Your Cyclamen, ei<4it years old, is a credit to you, but what would you say now to plants twice as large, and with three times as many flowers, grown in a year and a half according to The prescription given in the " Garden Oracle" for 1863 ? _ The fact is, in the cultivation of the Cyclamen time is nothing, and skill is everything. W. J. Lobelias struck in March may be treated the same as calceolarias. Those struck in February will flower in June ; those struck in March will flower in July. Calceolarias may be stopped, but not later than the middle of April *?nf% f$*iwiSij- r i * CERANI IJ M.-RICHSKU H E A D [ Y THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. JUNE, 1869. ZONAL PEIAKGONTTJMS. With figure of Richard Headli/. BY JOHN" WALSH. T is some six years since I began in earnest to get together a collection of Zonal Pelargoniums, so that I am now getting pretty well at home with them. Guided by that pen which has done so much in helping on the wonderful progress which has been made towards perfection in these flowers, by diverting the public taste into the right direction, and showing it what to look for and expect, my collecting has been as pleasant an occupation as one could wish for in connection with floriculture. Here I feel bound to acknowledge the assistance I have received in this matter from the papers which have appeared in these pages. By acting upon the advice contained therein, I have been able to get together a good collection at a comparatively small cost, free from the too common vexation of obtaining, after much trouble, worthless plants at high prices. The money part of the question is an important one to me ; and it is just possible that had I begun as many people do, and acting upon the raisers' descriptions instead of the advice of those who have no other interest but to tell the truth, I should long ere this have given up the whole affair in disgust. As it is, I have a collection which comprises all the best examples to be had at a moderate cost. I cannot well afford to buy all the very best directly they are offered, though I indulge myself now and then. The way I deal with new varieties that are recommended as first-rate by those I can depend upon, is to enter the names in a book I keep principally for that purpose, and when I can see by the catalogues that the prices are reduced to reasonable limits, I order them in. By this simple means no mistakes are made through forgetfulness, and it is a plan that I can advise my readers to adopt. As a guide in selecting from the hundreds of varieties that are yol. iv. — no. vi. 11 162 TIIE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. to be met with in the catalogues, I will offer a few remarks upon the properties that are to be looked for in a single variety. It will also serve as a guide to amateurs engaged in raising new varieties. Mind I do not presume to teach the great body of professional gardeners that resort to the Floral Would every month for guidance and help in their calling. I hope, however, that the latter class will not he offended if I tell them that in many instauces there is room for improvement amongst them in this respect. I have several good gardeners amongst my friends, and calling upou one the other day I was shown several pans of seedlings that were expected to produce something good in the " tricolor " way. Out of about two hundred not more than ten exhibited a trace of variega- tion on the seed leaf. When I condoled with him upon the poor prospect from such a limited number, he did not attach the slightest importance to the variegation on the seed leaf; he thought they would nearly all " break " if they had time. As a proof of the correctness of this, I was shown a lot of seedlings three years old that never had shown a trace of variegation, but were expected to "break" iu the coming summer. I just mention this to show that there is yet plenty of room for learning amongst those who are looked up to as teachers, aud also to clear myself from what may appear an act of presumption on my part, for touching this part of the subject. Suppose we begin with the individual flowers. The petals of the large flowering varieties should be broad and overlapping, so that the flowers may present au even constant outline, like those of Richard Headli/ figured in this number. The common defects of nearly the whole of the large flowering kinds, are top petals smaller than the lower three, and separating, from insufficiency of breadth, from the lower ones. Now that we have size and colour in such a wonderful degree, the enlargement of the top petals must be one of the principal objects for the breeder to aim at. In addition to the magnificent variety figured above, Dr. Lindley, Thomas Moore, and Andrew Marvel, are good examples in which the difference in the size of the top and the bottom petals is almost imperceptible. Flatness and smoothness are also important qualities. In the case of a nosegay, the petals should be all of the same size, and placed regularly round the axis. The colour is a matter of taste so long as it is bright and pure, and the substance of the petals must be stout and velvety. The trusses should be compact and globular, and look as if all the flowers had opened on one day, not like Stella, show a mass of dead petals in the centre before half the pips are expanded. Eclat, Richard Eeadly, Fire King, and Le Grand are perhaps tne four best trussers we have amongst the really superior kinds. The leaf should be of medium size, round, with obscure lobes and slightly convex ; the colour a dark shade of green, with distinct, well defined zone. The habit must be compact, and the wood short jointed. With circular flowers and overlapping petals we shall have many with robust habits, for the long stamens enlarge the petals and give vigour to the plants. In bedding varieties it is essential to have a very dwarf habit, but with pot plants it is different. Pot culture THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 163 reduces the vigour, and therefore extra vigour in the broad petaled varieties is favourable to the production of fine specimens. There is a material difference between growing plants for home decoration and for exhibition. The specimens for the exhibition- table must be grown in the usual watch-glass shape to meet with much success ; whereas those intended for the conservatory are best grown in a more natural manner, with the aid of a few sticks. To get up specimens quickly for either purpose, the plants must be turned out in the open ground the first summer, to form a founda- tion of stout wood. The way I proceed is to dig up deeply a piece of ground in the open garden, mix therewith a little leaf-mould, and plant stout little plants at a distance of about eighteen inches apart each way. Heavily-manured soil is not desirable, as we want a free but short-jointed, rather than a rank luxuriant growth. If the plants have been stopped once, and have three or four stubby shoots when planted out, a month's time will be saved. Our object now is to get symmetrically-shaped plants ; therefore we must keep them regularly stopped throughout the summer, to make them bushy. No stopping should take place after the 1st of August, when all the growing points ought to be nipped out. In a fortnight afterwards the shoots will be bristling with young growths, and the plants can then be taken up and potted. The principal points to be observed in taking the plants up are, to trim the roots moderately, pot as quickly as possible after they are out of the ground, and keep rather close and shaded for a week or so. A six-inch pot is the most convenient size to use, as it will admit of their being transferred comfortably into eight-inch size in the spring. Through the winter, just sufficient moisture to keep them fresh and green, and good ventilation, are the principal atten- tions the plants require. In the spring, shift into larger pots; eight- inch size is generally xised for exhibition purposes, but for home decoration the exact size of the pot is of no material consequence. Training must be begun in earnest for exhibition specimens directly after the spring shift. A ring of stout wire, with two cross pieces attached at each end to it, and fastened securely with pegs fixed in the soil, affords the most simple training-frame that can be used. The shoots can be easily tied down to this framework as occasion demands. The flower-stems must also be neatly tied down, for, however unnatural it may appear, it is necessary for giving that finished appearance which is looked for on an exhibition-table. The soil I use is good turfy loam, mixed with a sma}l propor- tion of leaf-mould and decayed manure, and a moderate quantity of silver sand. It is important to pot firm, and have the pots well drained ; about an inch depth of medium-sized crocks will be suffi- cient. Plenty of soft water, with occasional supplies of manure- water, will be necessary when the plants are growing freely ; but it must not be overdone even then. In the autumn cut back, and after the dormant buds have started, shake away a large portion of the old soil, trim the roots, repot, and treat as advised for young plants the previous autumn. Do your best, at every point in the cultivation, to avoid so absurd a result as pimping little plants in 164 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. enormously large pots, such as we occasionally see at provincial exhibitions. An able judge with whom I had the honour of acting at a show where specimens of this sort were presented, said to me, " As we cannot see the plants, we ought to judge the pots; only, unfortunately, they are too dirty to be handled." FUCHSIAS FOR HOME DECORATION AND EXHIBITION. BY J. F. M'ELROY, Head Gardener at Moray Lodge, Campden Hill. [HE Euchsia has been assigned to me as a subject for the Floral World because of my success with it as an exhibitor years ago. I am much afraid I cannot say anything new on the subject ; but I can point to two admirable papers on the cultivation of this favourite that have already appeared in this work. In the Number for February, 18G6, Mr. Cannell gave us his experience on the subject ; and in the Number for June, 1S67, Mr. Wyness, Her Majesty's Head Gardener at Buckingham Palace, treated upon it. After such great guns have been fired, I am diffident ; but I will obey my in- structions, and proceed to state briefly what occurs to me as most likely to be profitable to our readers. First, as to fuchsias out of doors. Go where you will, whether it be in public or private gardens, you seldom see a bed of them, unless it be the old hardy variety (Gracilis), planted in some corner of the garden where they are seldom noticed by the visitors. Surely, among the many improvements that are being adopted every year in our style of bedding, could not mounds, banks, or some similar contrivance, be suggested, where their flowers could be seen to perfection ? Why not employ them more extensively for deco- rating vases that are fixed along our terrace gardens or elsewhere ? If planted round their edges, so that the branches droop over, the effect must be pleasing, as well as interesting ; but then it may be said that we have so few varieties that would be suitable in every way for that purpose — that is, possessing the properties that would enable them to withstand wind and weather. I do not think the various sorts in cultivation have been sufficiently tested in that direction, so that gardeners can give a candid opinion on their relative merits lor that adaptation. It would be advisable if the raisers of new varieties for sale would turn their attention to the importance of their use for the system now recommended. I myself have grown for the purpose, for several years past, a variety knowu as Eppsii. It is a self-coloured flower (red), with stout sepals and petals, and a strong grower ; short-jointed, of bushy habit, and a very profuse bloomer. I remember, about twelve years ago, a very large bed of this variety being grown in the garden adjoining where I am employed. Their leading shoots were kept neatly tied to sticks, and although they were planted at a distance of eighteen THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 165 inches from each other, yet they grew so rapidly as to cover the beds quite as early as the other kinds of bedding -plants, attaining the height of two feet, thus forming a dense mass of foliage and flowers ; and the effect was striking, view it which way you might. In addition to their usefulness as bedders, they admit of being cut from for bouquets, or similar purposes. This can be done with benefit to the plants, as they will continue to push out shoots and flowers till the frost checks them. There are other varieties, if sought for, in existence, that possess all these useful qualities, and are quite hardy, needing only a slight protection to their roots during winter. In my rambles along the southern coast of England, I have observed numerous examples growing and flowering freely in the cottage gardens, and they having no other care bestowed on them than ordinary hardy plants. The general cultivation of the fuchsia within the last quarter of a century has done much towards the riddance of a deal of the labour required in preparing such plants as balsams, cockscombs, and like annuals, for filling the greenhouse during the autumn and summer months. ]NTot that I would advise their cultivation being entirely dispensed with, as they in themselves are beautiful ; but the labour in preparation is great compared with the fuchsia, and that is of some importance where there is much work to perform within a given time. Fuchsias will succeed the pelargoniums if treated in the following manner : — If you can obtain cuttings in the latter part of February or beginning of March, having struck them, grow them on as fast as you can in a moist heat, between fifty and sixty degrees. A vinery just commenced would be very suitable till the vines are in blossom, when they must be removed to a situation where they can have more light than the vinery can afford; besides, the heat for the vine will be too much for the production of robust growth in the fuchsia. Of course, if you have no other suitable place, you must make the best you can of the means at your command. When you have checked their growth by removal to a greenhouse or pit without fire-heat, you may expect them to show signs of flowering. After they have done flowering, and partially shed their foliage, they can be put in any out-of-the-way place where frost is excluded, as they will require but little water till they break the following spring. Previous to commencing their second year's growth, let those shoots requiring it be pruned, that the future shape of the plant may be regulated. When their shoots have grown an inch or more, shake off some of the old soil, and reduce the roots with a sharp knife if they need it ; then repot them into those sized pots you wish to grow them in. The great evil you have now to avert ia over-watering before the roots have got into the fresh soil, syringing them freely morning and evening. For furnishing the greenhouse, it is a good plan to have a succession struck every year, as after the second year they are best replaced with the previous year's plants. There may be exceptions in which you require large and old plants for a special object, as the furnishing of a large and lofty conserva- tory, etc., or for competition at an exhibition. There are other modes in which the fuchsia may be cultivated 166 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. as a decorative plant besides growing them in. pots. Some of the fast-growing varieties can be treated as pillar plants by training up the pillars of a conservatory, or as ordinary climbers along the rafters of a greenhouse. By what system of training are the plant and flowers seen most favourably ? In my opinion, the pyramid style claims the award, as the majority of the varieties are naturally inclined to that style of growth, though they vary in constitution, like other florists' flowers. Some have a disposition to flower in a dwarf state, and no skill or art can make them do otherwise ; others, on the contrary, though they will make rampant growth, no inducement can get them with satisfaction to concentrate their growth into a single stem or pyramid form, emitting, as they will, a quantity of shoots or suckers from the root. When you have made yourself acquainted with their various habits, then encourage them to a hearty growth. The standard form — that is, allowing a naked stem to extend some seven or eight feet in height, and then to form a bush, umbrella- fashion — is adapted for intermixing with large plants, as camellias, etc., in a house ; but for any other purpose I do not advocate this method of training. The Fuchsia is subject to the attacks of insects, which at times will sadly disfigure the foliage, and cramp the progress of the plant, if not watched and got rid of as soon as they appear. The cuckoo- spit may be detected by a frothy substance here and there deposited on the plants ; destroy it with your thumb and finger if possible, as you cannot always do so with certainty by fumigating, though the latter process will kill the common aphis. Many of the sorts are very liable, if grown in a dry atmosphere, to red spider ; some- times in a few days it will deprive them of all their healthy foliage. To avoid this when in flower, give them plenty of air, and keep the tops of the plants some distance from the roof of the house ; and do not neglect their supply of water when they have filled the soil with rootlets. In order to obtain large plants, and get them in flower for May and June exhibitions, we must commence to grow them not later than November. Bottom-heat, I maintain, is essential for the well- being of the plants. In the absence of any other means of affording it, use tan or hot manure well prepared. I have witnessed them do well in the absence of bottom-heat, but the house was small, and erected on an elevation affording plenty of light ; and, from the regular mode in which it was supplied with heat, combined with the size ot the house, the air within was so heated as to keep the soil constantly warm ; but it is not every kind of structure that is so adapted. Having grown them with and without bottom-heat during the winter months, I must decidedly give the preference to the former. That plants may thrive, the root action should be so ex- cited as to keep pace with the outward growth. When you perceive signs of flower, then dispense with bottom-heat. The final potting of your plants should be completed by the first week in February, if intended for flowering early. When they have fulfilled your object — that of exhibiting them THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 167 for competition — and their blooming season will be on the decline, put them out of doors, but not crowded together, and allow them to have a partial rest; and, after an interval, they will commence, with renewed vigour, to bloom abundantly during the autumn months. THE LADIES' GARDEN.— jNo. VI. BY J. C. CLAKKE, Head Gardener at Cothelston House, Taunton. ;LL seeds sown in the open borders will require early attention this month. The first work in connection with them is to thin out those that are sufficiently advanced in growth, say to the height of a couple of inches, and if they have come up thickly, this must be done with no sparing hand. It is best to pull up the weakest first, by going over them carefully, and leaving the strongest aud those that are the most distant apart, and then in another fortnight give them a final thinning. For such as mignonette, larkspurs, candytuft, and others of strong growth, six plants to a clump will be enough, while the weaker growing ones may be eight or nine to a clump. When all the plants are pulled out, those left should have some water, if the weather is dry, to settle the soil again round their roots, and in an hour or two afterwards, or the next day at the latest, a sprinkle half an inch thick of fine soil, and the plants will thrive amazingly. I cannot lay too much stress upon the importance of the timely thinning of all such subjects, for if neglected only a week or two thus early in the season, they get so weak and spindly for the want of room, that they never recover themselves afterwards. Many people fail with the annuals simply for the want of this timely attention. Some, too, will require neat little sticks as they advance in growth, if the spot is any way exposed to wind. Amongst such are the Clark ias, Schizanthus, Malope, Love lies bleediug, Prince's feather, etc. The last two are really useful old- fashioned annuals, deserving of much more notice than they now receive. There is very much more to be done with the annuals than is accomplished in the present day, for with a little care and attention, even only so much as is given the ordinary bedding plants, they will last a long while in bloom. For instance, the Larkspurs, the Mari- golds, and Balsams, and, indeed, all the kinds that are in the habit of seeding freely, will last throughout the summer, if their seed vessels are removed as soon as they are formed. It is a golden rule in the management of such plants never to allow a single seed to attain maturity. When the first flowers are faded, give the bed or the spot in the border which they occupy, a good soaking of water if the weather is dry, and immediately cover the ground an inch in thickness with some rich earth. Repeat this application of water 168 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. and earth twice more at intervals of three weeks. There are very few annuals but will carry a respectable appearance until the end of the season if so treated. In nineteen cases out of twenty the annuals are allowed to exhaust themselves by maturing a lot of seeds, the produce of their first flowers, and as that completes the part which nature has allotted them in the vegetable creation, they are necessarily short-lived. But remove their seed vessels immediately they are formed, and they will make a fresh growth, and conse- quently produce some more flowers. The application of the water and earth as above recommended, will favour root action, so that they will go on growing and flowering in proportion to the amount of attention given them. Those who say that such annuals as Larkspurs, Balsams, Phlox Drummondii, Marigolds, Clarkias, and Collinsias, etc., etc., are of short duration in flower, are only those who have grown them like hundreds of others, without paying anv attention to them. There are days and weeks spent in picking over the beds of the favourite bedding plants, while a tithe of the same trouble would be grudgingly given to a bed of annuals, though quite as wortby of the care as any other plants. I do not write to find fault with those who delight in bedding plants, I only want to show the rock on which the grower of annuals may be wrecked if the look out be faulty. A bed of geraniums will no more maintain a respectable appearance without attention, than will a bed of balsams. I therefore have a right to claim the same amount of attention for my favourites as is devoted to the others. As hot weather usually occurs about this time, the reader must see that nothing is suffering for the want of water in the beds and borders. Alpine and rock plants on blocks and other dry positions sometimes suffer for the want of moisture. Water them carefully, so as not to wash away the soil from their roots. Although I do not like to see anything suffer for the want of water, I am no advocate for the daily dribblings which lady gardeners are in the habit of giving. Water well at once or not at all. That is the only safe method of watering, and when it is at all practicable, sprinkle some dry earth over every spot that has been watered. This will prevent the water being evaporated when the sun comes out the next morning. By this precaution the roots have the benefit of all that is given them. Newly planted ferns must be looked to this month, if the weather is at all dry, and well watered ; when they are established in a shady position they are able to take care of themselves. Creepers planted against the house or other similar positions, frequently fail, even in damp weather, often owing to an overhanging roof, or by the position of the wall or fence, the rain is not able to reach their roots, so that they get no more moisture than is given them by hand. Our friends must have an eye to this, or disappoint- ment will be the result. Attention to such small matters as these insures success. Public writers are sometimes accused of mis- leading their readers, when the readers themselves are to blame, because they will not take the trouble of seeing their directions properly carried out. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 169 Seeing how well the Floral Would stands in the favour of lady gardeners, I think this series of papers cannot be com- plete without I give some information respecting the decoration of the garden during the spring months. I hear that what lias appeared respecting the decoration of the beds and borders for the summer has been useful. I will, therefore, endeavour to make the others the same, and in view of having cheerful flower-beds in the spring, I will ask my readers to sow at once on a shady spot in the kitchen garden, the blue and white perennial forget-me-not in separate colours. If the ground is dug up about six or eight square yards for each colour, and well watered before the seed is sown, and then the seed lightly covered over, there will be some nice plants to go out in the beds and borders in October and November. This is all that is really required for the spring preparation this month. Next month I hope to return to the subject. UTILIZATION OF ETJBBISH. ^HE pages of the Floral "World afford many a hint on artistic gardening, and on lovers of the picturesque these hints are doubtless not thrown away. It is the lot of few to possess their terraces and statuary, with shrubberies, lawn, and lake, but it is within the reach of all to form for themselves combinations which will make " bits" on which the eye can rest with satisfaction ; all the more gratifying, perhaps, when they can feel that it is something made out of nothing. Effect is by no means dependent upon expense. A marble or a terra cotta fountain may have cost a great deal of money, and be an ugly thing at the end of it, which any one with taste would cover over with ivy, as soon as it could be made to grow. On the other hand, a few stones and leaves put together in the manner illustrated at page 132 of Volume I. cost next to nothing, and form an essentially artistic object, which even an uneducated eve cannot help admiring. Here is a case in point, a pleasing entrance terrace made out of old roots and superannuated apple trees. Every one may not have an avenue of trees to operate upon, but the avenue is not essential to the effect. The terrace and rooting are complete in themselves, and might be applied in many positions. Neither is much difference in level essential, as the rise is, in this case, borrowed. In reality the ground within the railing rises only fifteen inches ; but by piling up the roots behind, a considerable difference of level is made to appear. On the face the roots are thoroughly cleared of earth and built up in imitation of rustic stone-work. The railing on the top being made out of an old trained apple tree, removed from the garden, and sawn through the middle. The thick stem laid along the top of the roots gives the effect of coping. Behind the railing 170 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. a flat portion two feet wide is left, for which a short thick-growing carpet has long been wanted ; but the pages of the Floral World have suggested the Spergula pilifera as the very thing needed. In this flat portion are planted crocuses and primroses which, coming up in succession, have a pleasing effect. A low-growing effective flower that would die down in its turn, is still wanted for summer show. Such a position would be admirably adapted for the plunging system, so ably advocated by Mr. Hibberd. The rootery of course affords a field for all sorts of plants. There is no doubt that much might be made out of littles if people only knew how to do it. There are too many examples in gardens of " how not to do it," and to those seeking the right way every hint is valuable. It. E. THE PTRETHRUM. f,HE Pyrethrum, as a florists' flower and one of the best of bedding plants, is scarcely known. Perhaps not more than a hundred amateurs in this country have as yet learnt to appreciate it, yet it surely must become one of the most popular flowers, for it has all the good qualities that should recommend it to public favour. Pray listen, friends, to a few words, first of praise, and secondly of description. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 171 The best of the named varieties are extremely beautiful ; many of them are like pompone chrysanthemums, others like anemone chry- santhemums, others like marigolds ; their colours range from purest white to the deepest crimson and purples, the shades of crimson being particularly brilliant. They are quite hardy, and will really grow anywhere ; though to grow them well a rich soil and a sunny position are requisite conditions. To multiply them is one of the easiest operations in gardening. They bloom at a time when our gardens are almost destitute of flowers — that is. in the merry month of May — filling up the dreadful gap between the true spring flowers and the summer bedders. In the mixed herbaceous border, for which we trust the Floral World has done something, the Pyre- thrums are truly splendid. They make rich masses, but in massing them it must be remembered that their bloom is over by the end of June. Those of our readers who are unacquainted with the Pyre- thrum, but would like to know something of it, should visit Mr. Salter's Nursery at William Street, Hammersmith, any time this month, but the earlier the better. As this nursery is but a furlong or so distant from the Kensington railway-station, many of our country cousins might visit it conveniently when in London. They will be well rewarded, for not only is there a large collection of pyrethrums, but collections also of herbaceous pa?onies, German iris, and hardy variegated plants. It is interesting to observe in Mr. Salter's charming plantations the various degrees of excellence in the varieties of nvrethrums. In the Siberian Single we have a pretty flower of a blush colour, the rays rather loose, the disc large, the attitude modest, yet pleasing. It is a very proper flower for the shrubbery, and might pass for a pretty homely weed, which only a blundering gardener would strike down with the hoe. But herein is one of the foundation plants of a remarkable race, and respect for genealogies compels us to notice it and plead for it. When the florists had made a little improvement in the race, and began to name them, the first that took a decisive place was one called the Duchess of Brabant, a fine bold single variety, the ray florets a lively rose-pink colour, the disc yellow. It was a long time before they become double, but as soon as a few good doubles were obtained, the single kinds sank into insignificance. Tet some of the earlier singles are worth having — as, for example, Delhayii, a nice rose-coloured flower ; Kleinlwltz, crimson and vellow ; Atro-sanr/uinea, crimson; Millerii, rosy-pink; Tom Pouce, red; Strictum, an inconstant and invariable blush with rose stripes. All these have close hard gilt-button-like discs, and bold guard petals, and are therefore in the class called singles. But these are not all the singles that are worth notice, for in these days of advancement there are at least two other and later singles that deserve notice and recommendation : namely, Prince Albert, a splendid variety with bold crimson rays, and intense golden-orange disc, superblv made, and of great size; and Delicata, which is "anemone-formed," with large guard, blooms profusely, and is one of the most showy border flowers known. In the double varieties the guard is usually more compact, and 172 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. consists of shorter petals (ray florets), which in the best overlap slightly, so as to form an even and substantial annulus. The disc consists of elegantly-quilled florets, arranged in a solid hemisphere, and if the colours are good, flowers so formed are extremely beautiful. The intermediate stage between the sheer single and the thorough double is that form which bears the name of " anemone," and which is the counterpart in this subject of the class of flowers bearing the same name among chrysanthemums. It is very interesting, therefore, to note the characters of the anemone kinds. One of the best of these is Lysias, which produces a large number of bold flowers of the size of a crown-piece, the colour a most pleasing shade of carmine. Others worth notice are the following: — Thomas Massart, pale peach; Comte de Monfbron, pale rose; Hendersoni, rosy-purple, yellow centre ; Coqueterie, purplish rose ; Vilmorin, rose- pink with yellowish centre. The next stage is the highest degree of perfection, and the flowers of the third section are called " ranunculuses," on account of their fine hemispherical outlines and the uniform character of the florets, which are most elegantly and symmetrically arranged. One of the best in this series is Purple Prince, the flower very large and finely formed ; the colour rose, crimson, and purple. Haarje and Smidt, Titiens, Alfred Salter, Henri -M&egur, Madame Boucharlet, Rev. Joshua Dix, Madame Billiard, Herman Stenger, Versailles Defi- ance, and Princess Alexandra are all grand in character, and may be called exhibition flowers ; they have high centres, beautiful outlines, the construction is refined, and if they were fairly exhibited they would some become as popular as asters, chrysanthemums, and gladioluses. There are two or three dozen of good varieties besides those named, but I am contented to select the typical varieties, leaving the general mass to those who like to search them out. The question arises, what are they good for ? They are good to make a fine display during May and June, when geraniums and verbenas have all their growing yet to do before they show a bloom. At such a time the pyrethrums, pa?onies, and irises are in their full beauty, and as they are all hardy, they want no glass to keep them through the winter ; and the propagation is simply a matter of division of the roots. This naturally leads us to consider if pyre- thrums are of any use for bedding, and the answer is, that they make splendid beds during the month of June, and after June their glories wane. The beautiful Delphinium formosum is in perfection at the same season, and well adapted to associate with pyrethrums for a June display, when our gardens generally are utterly destitute of flowers, and for the first time in the year we are beginning to enjoy outdoor exercise. Surely a grand display in June is well worth having, especially as it may be had on the same ground as the geraniums are to occupy, by treating the pyrethrums in exactly the same way as they treat Delphinium formosum at the Crystal Palace. There the delphiniums are planted in rows, and trained down ; in due time geraniums are planted in rows between tbem ; and the result is that the first flowers of the geraniums mingle with the last flowers of the delphiniums, and the mix- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 173 ture of red and blue is both peculiar and gorgeous. Suppose the pyrethrums to be treated the same way, but instead of geraniums calceolarias should be used, and how novel would be the mixture of rose and yellow, and how fine a balance as regards strength to the mixture of blue and scarlet. I find that in the strong soil of Stoke Newington the pyre- thrums make a stronger growth than they do with Mr. Salter. The flower-stems of Rosa plena, Rosa alba, and Gomte de Morny, and other strong growers of similar habit, rise two feet and a half high, and the flowers average three inches in diameter. We might there- fore take another leaf out of the Crystal Palace book, and peg down the flower-stems of the pyrethrums as they there peg down the flower-stems of the delphiniums. But there is another course open for the practitioner of bedding, and that is to try his hand first with the dwarf-growing kinds, of which there are several, as, for example, Icerijana, bright rose ; Nemesis, dark rose ; Princess Alex- andra, white ; Carnea nana, blush ; Tom Pouce, red. All these, and a few more which might be found, are of just the proper height to look over the tops of calceolarias, and show a delicate and effective mingling of white or rosy flowers, to afford a contrast, and at the same time tone down the glare of the yellow. As for soil and circumstances, they will grow in any soil and any climate if they have a nice open sunny position. If under the shade of trees, some of them are sure to perish in winter. Vermin of all kinds are fond of them, and I am obliged in the early part of the season, when the snails are hungry, to plant lettuces with mine, which by the way is a golden rule of practice in all old gardens to preserve many things besides pyrethrums. An open sunny spot is positively the only important requisite ; if the finest show flowers are wanted, the soil must be rich, aud they must have plenty of water; but for bedding purposes, neither manuring or watering are needful. It is quite worth remarking, however, that in a rich soil and abundance of water some of the anemone kinds acquire ranunculus forms, and in starvation circumstances the ranunculuses degenerate into anemones. A little more light thereby on the subject of double flowers. As to propagating, there is but one method worth mentioning, and that is division of the roots. We have endeavoured, in another place, to show the trade how to make stock rapidly; here we need ouly consider the interest of the private grower. The roots can be easily divided into small pieces, each with a distinct centre and a tuft of roots. The safest time to do this is during the months of March and April, as every scrap will then make a plant if put into light sandy soil, aud kept shaded for a week or so until beginning to make fresh roots. But a better time to part them is the mouth of August, when, however, they will require rather mote care in. shading and watering ; but yet even then, if the weather is not verv trying, they will almost take care of themselves. If the finest possible flowers are desired, part them in August, and plant them out in beds of rich soil where they are to flower. S. H. 174 EARLY STRAWBERRIES. BY MR. HOWLETT. [jHEREVER Strawberries are forced, the business should be commenced in the middle of June, and therefore this is the proper time for a practical man to write about it if he would be thoroughly useful to his readers. If we want early Strawberries we must obtain our plants early, and I advise every cultivator who contemplates forcing Strawberries next spring to see about making a fine stock of plants at once. I have nothing new to propose on the subject, but as a short paper embodying the results of much experience and observation may be useful now, I will endeavour to present a com- plete code in a few words. The method I adopt for growing my plants is one very generally adopted by a majority of gardeners. I fill as many small pots (60's) as I want in the month of June, as soon as the runners have emitted the least root, with rich soil pressed rather heavily into the pots ; the pots are placed amongst the plants in order to receive the runners which are laid upon the soil, and pressed tight or pegged down with small pegs cut from old birch-brooms. When this is done, they are watered at all times when necessary, and in a fortnight they will be sufficiently rooted to cut them from the parent plant, when they are potted singly into 32-sized pots, and placed thinly in beds in the most open and convenient part of the garden, to remain until October. In watering during the summer months, there are two points highly necessary to be observed to secure success at the forcing season, viz., first, weil-growing plants ; and, secondly, a sound, healthy condition during winter, both of which are within command of every skilful gardener. Should there not be the convenience of frames for protection during the winter, they may be preserved in good condition after they have completed their growth by the following procedure: — Select any shady situation ; lay the pots in a double row, two feet wide ; fill up the interstices with cinder ashes or dry tan, continuing layer upon layer, drawing each layer in a little, so as to form a ridge, which will be easily protected with dry litter or mats in severe weather. In this situation they will remain without water in a healthy condition until wanted for forcing. If plunged in wet ground, they are liable to become mildewed and the soil filled with worms, either of which is verv injurious. Where there is not the convenience of frames, the layering system is the most advantageous, as thev are less liable to receive any check by the operation of potting, which is of the greatest importance, as there is no time to be lost in making a fruitful plant. If the above remarks are strictly observed, a fruitful plant is insured. At the commencement of forcing, I fill pans with rich soil, upon which I stand the pots, so that they are benefited by rooting into it ; they are liberally supplied with water at all times, for the least THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 175 neglect in that would be fatal, and often the cause of failure in a whole crop. Bear in mind, a sudden heat may make them barren, and too much heat spoil the flavour of the fruit. As to failures in Strawberry forcing thev commonly re- sult from one of two causes : first, a bad plant, through not beginning in time, or carelessness as to the summer growth ; second, too much haste in forcing, through anxiety to be very early, or through ignorance of the injurious effects of sudden and excessive heat. It has long been my opinion that the growing season has nothing whatever to do either with failure or success; it is a part of a gardener's duty to attend to watering in dry, hot seasons ; in wet seasons there is not so much danger. I repeat that there are only two essential points to be attended to, to insure healthy, fruitful plants, and to force them properly, but the great mistake is as to the forcing season. Tbe whole season's labour may be frustrated by the work of a few weeks, either by too much heat or the want of a proper struc- ture to force them in ; indeed I think it a waste of labour to attempt early forcing of strawberries. Four or five hundred well managed will give a better return and greater satisfaction if forcing is com- menced at the end of January, than double the number will com- mencing the first of December. At the last-named season the nights are long, and to keep a hardy plant in the confined atmosphere of a pine-stove or early vinery is likely to be a failure, and will not remu- nerate a gardener for his anxiety — to say nothing of the waste of materials and labour. PLANTS FOR TABLE DECORATION THAT MAT BE GROWN IN A COMMON HOTBED. BY WILLIAM COLE, Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex. jHE cultivation of plants for table decoration is an important matter with those who have not much accommodation for plant growing, because a pair of nice healthy plants will serve several times, and save the conservatory from being denuded of its flowers. I shall confine myself to those plants which can be grown in an ordinary botbed, along with the early cucumbers. Of course a greenhouse will also be necessary to receive the plants as they come from the frame, to preserve the flowers and foliage fresh as long as possible. We have in the Achimenes, Gesneras, and Gloxinias, three very useful subjects for our purpose ; apart from their value as conservatory plants. It will not be wise to start too many very early. The middle of March will be a good time for starting the main lot. All these grow well in the same compost ; which can be formed by chopping up moderately fine, and mixing together two parts silky loam, one part fibry peat, one part thoroughly decayed 176 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. leaf-mould, half a part rotten manure, and nearly the same quantity of sharp silver sand. The Gesneras and Gloxinias should be potted singly in small pots, and just covered with soil. The Achimenes ought to have from six to eight bulbs in each pot. "We shall have to grow them to a flowering size in small pots, therefore that num- ber must not be exceeded. "When there are too many bulbs in each pot, the plants get crowded, and are so weak as to be unable to flower well. There are two good ways to start them. I will point out both, and then the cultivator can take his choice. Either way the bulbs must be shaken carefully out of the old soil in readiness for planting. One way is to fill ordinary seed pans with the pre- pared compost, and place the bulbs regularly over the surface, and then cover with a quarter of an inch of soil. "When the young plants are two inches high, they can be pricked off into either five or six-inch pots, regulating this point by the size of the stand used upon the dinner table. Six in each pot will be enough. The other way is to fill sixties with soil, and then put eight bulbs in each, keeping them round the sides. "When they are large enough, draw out the two weakest, and shift into the size recommended above. As it is necessary to have dwarf bushy plants, hardy enough to bear with impunity the dry heat of the dining-room, and also a short sojourn in a draughty lobby, they must be elevated on pots to keep them near the glass. If they are placed near the back part of the frame, as well as being elevated, they will get the benefit of plenty of air. This would not be possible were they placed along the front part of the frame, where hardly a breath of air ever comes. When the pots are well filled with roots, weak manure water, every other time, will be of great service in helping to pro- mote a healthy growth. So long as it is weak it will be better for the plants if manure water is used altogether. I believe in weak doses frequently, in preference to a strong dose now and then. Neat sticks should be put to the young Achimenes as soon as they are four inches in length, and secured to them as growth pro- gresses. The tall sorts ought to be stopped when they get about six inches in height, to promote a bushy habit. "We do not want tall specimens on the table, as they obscure the view across it, and then become objectionable, and for this reason only dwarf varieties ouo-ht to be used. Towards the end of May remove to a warm corner of the greenhouse, and shade from the sun. In cold seasons, the plants had better remain in the frames rather longer, say to the first week in June, or they will probably receive a serious check, and the growth be prematurely stopped. "When this happens the flowers do not open kindly. As we want clear colours that will tell well under the influence of artificial light, the following selection will be suitable, — Aurora, scarlet ; Carminata splendens, carmine ; Dazzle, bright scarlet ; Longiflora alba, white ; Margaretta, white ; Scarlet Perfection, carmine. The Gesneras and Gloxinias will succeed under the same treat- ment, but the former should be kept in the frame longer. Of the former cinnabarina, refulgens, and zebrina splendens are the best ; these can be had from August until February by starting a succes- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 177 sion of bulbs. It will, however, be a difficult matter to have them good after the end of September without a stove. Well-grown Gloxinias have a beautiful appearance on the table ; the erect flower- ing varieties are preferable. "When they are used by daylight the following list may be selected from ad lib.; but only the white and various shades of crimson ought to be employed at other times. Acton Green, purple, white throat; Constance, crimson-purple; Diony- sius, white, crimson belt ; Henri Husson, white, rose lips ; Lady Cecilia Molyneux, crimson, white margin ; Louise Vallerand, white, carmine, and rose ; Madame Blot, white, purplish-crimson lips ; Marie Vallerand, white tube and margin, bright rose lips ; Minas Geraes, carmine, with violet shade ; Pegase, vermilion ; Princess Alice, reddish crimson ; Thomas Lobb, blue ; Vulcan, white throat, with rosy pink margin. In dealing with these care must be taken to prevent their drawing, by keeping the plants near the glass, and properly supplied with air ; otherwise the flowers will fall about and have an unsightly appearance, instead of standing up stiff and erect. Ornamental-leaved Begonias are rather too stiff in foliage and habit to make fibst-class table plants. Small well-grown specimens have, however, a very good appearance. They are easily grown if treated the same as advised for the Achimenes. They do well in an ordinary greenhouse through the summer, and if kept dry, can also be wintered there. A brisk growing temperature is, however, required to give them a start. Charles Wagner, Comte Alfred de Limminglie, Queen Victoria, Sex, Secretaire Morren, and Subpeltata nigra punctata, are all good. The latter has a shrubby habit, and flowers freely through the winter if kept in a little warmth, and is handsome both in flower and foliage. Solanum capiscastrum and WeatherilVs Hybrids are grand for the table, when they have justice done them. The last are much the best, as they require no sticks or supports of any kind. The seed should be sown thinly in pans early in March, and potted singly into 60's directly they are large enough to handle. Use good turfy loam and rotten dung, and keep the plants in the frame until the beginning of May, and then harden off. A fortnight's stay in the greenhouse, and a week or ten days' exposure to the open air, with protection at night if necessary, will iusure their being in proper order for planting out. I always plant my Solanums out on a warm border, and I can get much better and healthier plants than is possible when they ere kept in the pots throughout the summer. The plants come up with better balls in the autumn, if a liberal quantity of leaf-mould is worked into the border. A few good soakings of water will be required to help them on in dry weather; or the growth will be slow, and few beiries produced until it is too late to ripen them. Weatherill's Hybrids have a bushy habit, and require very little stopping ; but after sufficient berries are set, the growing points ought to be nipped out to throw the vigour of the plant into them. The plants also have a brighter appearance, as the berries can be seen better than when they have several inches of growth above them. Any time in September will do for taking up VOL. IV. — NO. YI. 12 178 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. and potting. This must be done carefully, and the plants kept rather close for a week or so, to preArent their receiving a check, and losing any part of the foliage. With the aid of a warm cuphoard, or other contrivance, that can be kept at a temperature of not less than 45°, a very good col- lection of Caladiums may be grown. Winter is the most trying time, for if the corms are kept moist, or in a temperature below that advised above, they will assuredly rot and become useless. We want a large number of small leaves, therefore several corms must be put in each five or six-inch pots. Good loam, peat, and leaf- mould, in the proportion of two parts of the first to one each of the two last, and mixed with a sixth part of sand, will grow them capitally. The compost must be used in a rough lumpy condition. The corms should be covered with half an inch of soil, and no water applied until the young growth is about an inch above the surface. The compost must be neither too dry nor too wet, and means should be taken to prevent its drying up, by covering the surface of the soil with an inch of leaf-mould. To start the corms into growtb quickly, plunge the pots in the bed until the roots have taken possession of the new soil. As the leaves begin to unfold, bring the plants near the glass to keep the leaf-stalks as short as possible ; but shade from the sun to prevent the leaves getting injured. These can be brought into the greenhouse at the same time as the Achimenes, and like them, require a warm shady corner free from draughts. Water freely when in the frame, but be very careful in its administration afterwards ; it should have the chill taken off at all times. Directly the beat begins to decline in the autumn, lessen the supply of water, and gradually dry off, so that the soil may be quite dry by the time the foliage is gone. Particular attention is necessary upon this point, for if the soil is moist when the foliage has died down, the certain loss of the corms can be anticipated. When the foliage is dried completely off, shake out the corms and bury them in sand, in either small pots, boxes, or paper-bags. Where people have the convenience of a stove, it is much the best to keep the corms in the pots in which they were grown, until the spring potting. There are heaps of good things that can be grown in a green- house altogether, but I shall not touch them now ; my object at this moment being to show small growers, with few conveniences, how to manage a few of the choice subjects that are commonly supposed to require a stove for their accommodation. To grow large speci- mens, of all but the Solanums, a stove is necessary ; there need, however, be no difficulty in growing all to a proper size for table decoration, with the aid of an ordinary hotbed and a greenhouse, by the treatment pointed out in the course of the foregoing remarks. 170 RAISING- NEW VARIETIES OP ZONAL GERANIUMS. CHAPTEll III. 'HERE are plenty of flowers to be found now, and the pollen is potent. I shall say very few words upon the subject immediately before me, but the practitioner will do well, unless far advanced already, to heed every word. If you look at a flower just opened, or but half open, you will, in the majority of instances, see abundance of pollen. It is red or yellow in colour, evidently granular, and when touched breaks into fine dust, a quantity of which may easily be taken up by means of a camel's-hair pencil. Let us suppose you do not touch the flower, and that you again look at it the next day. Probably, if the weather is hot and sunny, it will by this time have shed its pollen, and you will observe in the centre of the flower an elegant construction consisting of five recurved horn-like processes springing from a central stem. These are the stigmas or female organs, on which the pollen, taken from the flower which you have selected for a father, is to be placed. If, proceeding from these premises, you will pull a few flowers to pieces, you will discover that the pollen is borne in club-like masses or stamens, on stems or filaments of variable lengths. There are, or should be, ten stamens in all: but we seldom find so many ; and speaking from my own experience, it never happens that all ten are productive of pollen. The outer ones are the shortest, and usually later in ripening their pollen. These papers would be wearisome and prolix if I were to attempt to prove everything. Allow me, therefore, simply to assert that it is a most rare thing in nature for any flower to be fertilized by its own pollen. One proof of this I can give by the assertion of a general fact, that it is a most rare occurrence for the stamens and stigmas of any one particular flower to be ripe at the same time. I foresee a difficulty in your mind as to this doctrine. You call to mind that particular varieties do actually reproduce themselves to a great extent, which is presumptive evidence that their flowers were fertilized by their own pollen. I can explain the matter in a word. Flower No. 1, on any plant, usually produces no seed ; flowers 2, 3, and 4 are likely to leave no issue ; but at the 3rd or 4th, we may expect the formation of seed to begin, because the pollen of No. 4 is likely to fall on or be carried to (by insects, say) the stigmas of No. 3. Just observe how common is the case that the first flowers of all kinds commonly pass away without producing seed. One question to the point, — whoever saw the first flower on a geranium or a holly- hock result in seed, unless it was artificially fertilized ? Now to business again. The usual practice is to select the flower that is to produce seed, and cut away all the stamens as soon as the petals begin to open ; that is to say, before the pollen is ripe. You must learn to do it by practice. You will of course spoil a few of the first flowers you operate upon. Experience has taught me that there is no need for 180 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. removing the stamens at all, and here you observe that a doctrine founded on observation comes to our aid to simplify our work. Tou had better practise removal of stamens, however, for the practice has its uses at times. The one grand point in effecting a cross is to take pollen when full ripe, dry, granular, and breaking at a touch into dust, and apply it to stigmas that are just ripe to receive it. Generally speaking, the stigmas are ripe on the day after the pollen is shed ; in very hot weather they are ripe the same day ; they never ripen in advance of the stamens ; and therefore the case is actually in your hands. If you have made up your mind to effect some distinct and bold cross, it will be well to remove all, except two or three of the flower- buds from the seed-bearing plant. The two or three left will — if you arrange it so when clipping the buds out of the truss — flower at distant intervals, and you will operate upon them as you have determined, and this mode of procedure will reduce to a minimum the probability of their being fertilized by stray pollen from flowers on the same plant. The actual operation of artificial fertilization consists simply in taking a little ripe pollen on the point of a dry camel's-hair pencil, and depositing it on the ripe stigmas. The operation should be performed at mid-day in a dry atmosphere, and, if possible, while the sun shines. It may be repeated to " make sure," but depend upon it the smallest grain applied at the right moment will be as effectual for its purpose as any larger quantity, or any number of repetitions. S. H. THE RESURRECTION PLANT. E have recently received several letters of inquiry on this suhject. It appears from those before us that some little confusion exists, through two perfectly distinct subjects having received the appellation of " Resurrection Plant" the one being a flowering plant, and the other a lycopod. The true "Resurrection Plant," or "Rose of Jericho," Anastatica Mero- elnmtina, is an annual belonging to the Nat. Ord. Ciiucifek.1, and a native of the Egyptian deserts and the dry wastes of Arabia, Barbary, and the Holy Land. Its generic name is derived from Anastasis, " resurrection," in reference to the property it possesses of recovering its original form and green healthy appearance if immersed in water, no mutter how dry it may be. It is a dwarf- growing bushy-habited plant, resembling, when in a fresh green state, a large tuft or patch of green moss, but when deprived of moisture it curls up, then resem- bling a bunch of dried cedar twigs about four or five inches in diameter. In its native habitat this singular plant grows with remarkable vigour during the rainy season, but as soon as the dry weather sets in, and the heat of the sun begins to- dry up the supply of moisture, the plant dries up too, the roots detach themselves from mother earth, and the plant is then blown about at the mercy of the wind until the return of a few congenial showers. Immediately the roots receive a little moisture they suck it up, the plants unfold in a few hours, and spread out in flat tufts of the most emerald biightness, and grow away again with renewed vigour. With the return of dry weather the plants again dry up as before, unless they have had time to flower and perfect their seed ; of course, when this happens they perish like all other plants of an annual duration. This Anastatica is by no means new, as it has been known to science for nearly three hundred years, though at present rare and scarce in this country. In Parkinson's "Paradisus" (1629), the Roe of Jericho is not mentioned; the THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 181 omission is curious, because of the venerable author's extensive knowledge of plants. In Millers "Gardener's Dictionary" (1771) it is fully and accurately described. It: the course of the description the following remarks occur: — "It hath had the epithet of ' Rosa Marite' given to it by the monks, who have superstitiously sup- posed that the flowers open on the night that our Saviour was born ; but the. truth is that the dry woody plant being set for some time in water, will dilate and open so as to disclose the seed vessels and seeds. This I have seen done when the plant has been many years gathered, so that there are several curious persons who pre- serve them in their repositories of curiosities for the singularity of this property." The Hebrew writers drew but few similes from the aspects of nature, and minute observation is of modern growth entirely. Yet the peculiarities of this plant, now blown about the desert sere and sorrowfully, like the sinner made sport of by the power of darkness, and again revived by the breath of God and endowed with new life and beauty — these peculiarities and their fitness as materials of spiritual imagery can scarcely have been altogether unnoticed. Job may have had this plant in mind when he said in his mournful reply, "Wilt thou break a leaf driven to and fro? and wilt thou pursue the dry stubble? " (xiii. 25). And again Ezekiel, " I the Lord have brought down the high tree, have exalted the low tree, have dried up the green tree, and have made the dry tree to flourish" (xvii. 24). And again Isaiah, in one of his most wonderful outbursts of ecstatic teaching, " He shall also blow upon .them and they shall wither, and the whirlwind shall take them away as stubble" (xl. 24). The Rose of Jericho is a plant of easy culture, requiring the treatment usually accorded to the ordinary greenhouse annuals, and in the southern part of this country it will succeed under the same conditions as many half-hardy annuals, pro- vided it has the advantage of a warm and dry position. March is the best time to commence the cultivation. The seed-pots should be filled in the ordinary way with light fibry loam, leaf-mould, and sand broken up finely, and a slight covering of sifted soil spread over it to receive the seed. Sow rather thinly, and then cover with a sprinkle of fine soil, and placj the pots in a propagating or cucumber frame, where they will receive the advantage of a bottom-heat of about 70' or 75', and an atmo- spheric warmth of a few degrees less. The soil must have no more water than is just sufficient to keep it nicely moist, and as the young plants get well above the surface, shift the pots to a more favourable position for the plants receiving a sufficient supply of those two essentials to plant life— light and air. Pot off singly when they are strong enough to undergo that operation, and keep close for a few days to enable them to make fresh roots quickly and get established. After this remove to the greenhouse and shift into larger pots as needful, or plant in a warm dry sunny position. Plants from seed sown in March will flower in July and August, according to the way in which they are grown. They should be pulled up by the roots just as they come into flower, and be suspended in a warm place until dry. With the •convenience of a dry room they can be kept for several years, and when the roots are placed in a vessel of water will gradually unfold, and the buds and flowers swell and expand as though they had but recently been taken from the ground. Selaginella (Lgcvpodium) lepidophylla is another so-called "resurrection" plant. It is a very strong grower in the way of S. Mertensii, and well worth a place in the most select fernery, as well for its elegant habit as its peculiar property of becoming fresh and green after being dried up and apparently dead for several months. In a letter we received from Mr. Sim, of Foot's Cray, a short time since, he says in reference to this plant: — " A neighbour, Mr. Pickersgill, told me he had a piece of Selaginella sent him by post from a friend in Philadelphia, on whose desk it had been shrivelling for four months previous to its despatch. After the orthodox immersion it grew in Mr. Pickersgill's stove fernery until some mishap caused its death : a good many mosses possess the same latent vitality." This Selaginella will thrive under the same •conditions as the other stove species, and therefore no special directions are needed. When the plants come to hand they require soaking in tepid water until they return to their usual green state, and then ate repotted and treated in the same way as the -others. The confounding of these two plants is a pardonable blunder of those who never made acquaintance with a single scrap of vegetation technically, and to whom the word Allium conveys no idea at all of an onion or a leek ; but, strange to say, men whose whole business in life consists in noting distinctions amongst plants and in 182 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. correctly identifying them by their botanical names have fallen into the same error, so much so that when a resurrection plant is ordered of a dealer, it is by no means certain whether the flowering plant or the lycopodium will be sent. As a rule, how- ever, no matter what name the plant is advertised by, the lycopodium is the one that is really offered, and this, it must be understood, is not the "resurrection" plant of the ancients, but one only so called in modern times. NEW PLANTS. LADIOIXS CRUENTAS, Blood-flowered Com Flag (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 1138). — Iridaceas. This beautiful species was introduced from Natal by Mr. Bull, with whom it flowered last summer. It has a vigo- rous habit, the large sanguineous red Mowers being produced in spikes two feet long. The foliage resembles G. cardinalis. Ibeeidella botundifolia, Round-leaved Iberidellci (Bot. Mag., t. 5749). — A lovely little rock plant, native of shingly, calcareous soils, in the Alps of IBEEIDELLA IvOTO'IUFOLIA. Europe, at elevations of GOOO to 9000 feet. The leaves are slightly glaucous in hue, the flowers pale lilac, with yellow eye. Richabdia melanoleuca, Black-throated Bichardia (Bot. Mag., t. 5765. — A pretty arad, allied to the popular "trumpet lily," from which it differs chiefly in the leaves being marked with white spots ; the flowers are of smaller size, and in colour pale sulphur yellow, with blsck throat. Dendbobium ceassinoi.e, Thick-knotted Dendrobe (Bot. Mag., t. 5766). — A remarkable dendrobe, with swollen, leafless stems, and large handsome flowers, the colours of which are white, yellow, and rose. Sanchezia noeilis, var. glavcophylla (Ulllust. Sort., t. 580). — A fine variety of this extremely handsome plant. The leaves are glaucous, or pale lead- colour, with pale yellow divisions, and scarlet midrib. Doecocebas kygeometeica (L'Sbrt. -Franc, 1868, 170, t. 6). — Cyrtandraceaa. A very pretty dwarf herbaceous perennial, forming rosettes of softly-hairy leaves, from among which rise numerous scapes, bearing pale violet-coloured flowers. Amabanthus spectostjs aureus, The Beautiful Golden Frince's Feather. — A very pretty variety, with brownish yellow flowers, raised by Mr. F. K. Burridge. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 183 Tacsonia eriantiia, Woolly-flowered Tacsonia (Sot. Mag., t. 5750). — A noble passion flower, resembling T. inollissima in colour of flower, which is a delicate rosy pink, but differing conspicuously in the white under-surface of the foliage and long bracts. Though a native of the central regions of America, it grows at great elevations, and is, therefore, when under cultivation in this country, a greenhouse or conservatory plant. Saccolabium bigib3Um, Two-crescent-lipped Saccolalium (Bot. Mag., t. 5767). — A curious species from Rangoon. The lip is broadly triangular, with divided cres- cent-shaped, ciliated margin. The colour deep yellow. Camellia Japonica foliis variehatis (L'llhtst. Jfort., t. 581). — This variety has single flowers, which are scarcely attractive, and leaves beautifully edged with creamy variegation. Camellia sasanqua foliis VARIEGATIS (Ibid.) — A good companion plant to the fore- going. Pyrethrum Souvenir dr Van der Vinnen (L'Jllmt. Sort., t. 583). — A hand- some single flower, of great size ; the colour of the florets deep, rich marone ; the disk orange. Thomson's Golden Cham- pion Grape (L'lllust. Sort., t. 578). — A good figure of this noble white grape, the best of its class iu cultiva- tion. PiEONIA OFFICINALIS, Var. auueo-limbata. (L'lllust. Sort, t. 579). — An ugly preony, not worth figuring. Palava flexuosa, flexu- ous-stemmed Palava (Bot. Mag., t. 5768) — A charming hardy or half-hardy annual, native of Peru. The plant attains a height of eight to ten inches, pinnatifid ; the flowers a light mauve colour. Catasetum longifolium, Long-leaved Catasetum (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 1186). — Orchidacea?. A pretty orchid, lately re-introduced and flowered by Mr. W. Saunders, with bright crimson and lake-coloured flowers. Ekanthemum Andersoni (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 134). — Acanthacese. An interesting, free-flowering little stove plant, introduced from Trinidad by Mr. Bull, with prettily-spotted flowers in the way of E. albiflorum. Wrongly described at page 1231 Gard. Chron., 1868, as elegans. Vanda insignis, The Remarkable Vanda (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 1259). — Orchidaceao. This magnificent orchid is the true Vanda insignis of Blume ; that commonly known in gardens under that name being nothing more than a variety of V. tricolor. The sepals and petals, which are reversed like those of V. sauvis, are brownish yellow inside, witli rows of deep red spots, and whitish yellow outside ; lip violet, with white column and spurs. Introduced by Messrs. Veitch and Sons from the Malayan Archipelago. Pinus Tamrac (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 191). — Pinaceas. A coniferous tree of moderate growth and pyram'dal form, found plentifully in California. TACSOXIA ERIANTHA. The leaves are 184 THE GAKDEN GUIDE. Bab.— 29-97. Thee.— 71, 50, 60|. 3um\ Wind .— S. by W., & VV. by N. Rain. — I'M in. Gbebnhousb Flowebs. — Aphelexis rupestris grandifiora; Azalea Jackson's Grand Crimson, A.Lizzie ; Dracophyllum gracile ; Erythrina crista galli ; Fuchsias, Indigqfera decora; Kalosanthus coccinea, K. phoenix ; Leschenaultia biloba major ; Nerium splendens ; Pelargoniums, Tac- sonia manicata, T. ignea ; Tecoma jas- Gabden Flowebs. — Evening Prim- rose, (Enothera Fraseri, (E. grandifiora ; Yarrow, Achillea millefolium roseum ; Bell-flower, Campanula carpatica; Lark- spur, Delphinium formnsum, D. Barloviii ; Feathered Piuk, Dianthus plumarius ; Broad-leaved Thrift, Statice latifolia. The Weatheb. — The day temperature averages 7\ above that of May, and the night3 are generally warm. As westerly winds prevail, and the ground is warm (60$ at 1 foot deep), vegetation is full of activity. The present month is likely to be hotter than the average. Flower Garden. — If not already done, old stools of such things as produce a multiplicity of flower-spikes, like the Phlox, should be looked over, and the weakest of the flowering shoots thinned out. Stake those left, and also flowering spikes of Delphiniums, Lilies, etc., to prevent the wind snapping them off. The summer bedders ought to be in their proper places by this time, and the beds and borders be made trim and neat as speedily as possible. Pansies that have done flowering should be cut back, and cuttings made of the young side-shoots as they push. The old hollow flowering stems are of no use for propagating. Plants of a trailing habit, like the Petunia and Verbena, should have the young shoots pegged out regularly before they get crowded. Upright growei-s should have the soil stirred between them, if it has become hard from the necessary waterings. The super fluous shoots should be removed from briers intended for budding, and the remain- ing ones shortened back, if they are growing too vigorously. This should be done a fortnight previously to the budding being performed, so that there shall be no check to the flow of sap at that time. Seed of Annuals for autumn flowering should be sown soon ; this is also a good time for sowing seed of herbaceous peren- nials for flowering next year. When left until the autumn, the plants are seldom strong enough to flower well the following year. Many hardy plants will strike freely now on a shady border, or under hand-lights, if the young side-shoots are slipped off with a heel, and inserted firmly in the soil. Dahlias and Hollyhocks must have stakes put to them at once ; and Chrysanthemums in the borders stopped at the beginning and again at the end of the month. Greenhouse. — The whole of the hard-wooded plants ought to he removed into the open air some time this month, according to the state of the young growth. Ericas and Leschenaultias ought to have a tew lights placed over them, supported on stout posts, to ward off the rains, but admit the freest possible circulation of air amongst them. The utmost caution is necessary, just now, to see that the plants have sufficient water at the roots, hut without having too much. The specimens must be looked over regularly, rain or no rain. It is a mistake to suppose that a Bulbous Flowers. — African Lily, Agapanthus umbe.llatus ; Crimim capense, C. gigantea; Gastronema sanguinea ; Ismene amancces ; Lilium auratum, L. aurantiacum, L. candidum, L. chalcedo- tiicum, L. tenuifolium ; Tigridia conchi- fiora; Watsonia speciosa . Stove Flowers.— Achimenes carmi- nata elegans, A. Margarelta, A. Pink Perfection; Clerodendron Thompsoni ; Franciscea Lindeniana; Gloxinia Rose d' Amour, G. Acton Green, G. Pegasus; Hoya bella ; Ixora coccinea superba, J. Javanica; Rondoletia speciosa ; JErides crispttm;* Anguloa Clouesii;* Dendro- Hum tortile * " As the earth bringeth forth her bud, and as the garden causeth the things that are sown in it to spring forth ; so the Lord God will cause righteousness and praise to spring forth before all the nations." — Isaiah Ixi. 11. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 18-5 shower of rain is sufficient for plants in pots. It is seldom more than enough to wet the top-soil. Pelargoniums are now fast going out of flower ; they should be removed to the open air to mature the young wood, and then be cut back to two or three eyes each. The early-flowering varieties that were cut back early last month will be ready for potting soon. The plants should be shaken out of the old stuff, the roots pruned, and then be repotted in smaller-sized pots. After they are re- potted, stand them upon a layer of coal-ashes in the full sun for the present. A slight sprinkle overhead in the evening will materially help the production of new roots. Fuchsias may have liberal supplies of manure-water to help them on as the pots get full of roots. Pot off cuttings just struck, and shift on young stuff, so that no check may be experienced by them at this stage. Stove. — The plants in this structure must have a good syringing overhead at least once a day in bright weather, and not be allowed to suffer for the want of water at the roots. A few cans of water should be poured on the paths several times during the day. Any of the stove-plants that are to go into the conservatory when in bloom should be removed to the coolest end, or go into an intermediate house a week previous. Stove-plants should have the warmest position the con- servatory affords, and be guarded from draughts. Achimenes and Gloxinias fol- iate flowering should now have their final shift, and winter-flowering plants be potted on as occasion requires. Shift Stanhopeas into larger baskets, or top-dress with fresh sphagnum as they go out of flower. Orchids growing on blocks will now require a daily dipping in tepid water. Kitchen* Garden. — Endive and lettuce ousht to be sown where they are to remain at this season, for they run to seed long before they get to a full size when transplanted. There need be no waste of seed, as it can be sown very thinly. Plant out cabbage and cauliflower for the autumn, and Brussels sprouts, borecole, brocoli, and savoys for the winter. Choose a dull, moist day, if possible, for all planting operations. The ground should be got in readiness for planting as fast as it becomes vacant, so that there may be no unnecessary delay when we are favoured with showery weather. Plant out the early crop of celery, and shade with a few branches of evergreen until the plants are established, and keep well supplied with water. Knight's Dwarf-Green Marrow, and Bedman's Imperial, are two good peas to sow at the end of the month for late autumn supply ; but a few rows of any good second early marrow mav be sown now to precede them. Keep the hoe going amongst all growing crops, to keep the surface loose, and the weeds in subjection. A second crop of scarlet runners ought to be sown the last week for succession; and a few rows of dwarf beans both the first and last week. Fruit Garden. — Let the work of thinning the young shoots progress steadily, and leave no more wood than is really wanted for bearing next year, and filling up vacancies that are likely to occur. Pinch cherries, plums, and pears back to the third or fourth leaf, to encourage the production of spurs. Pyramids, espaliers, and cordons should have just as much attention as wall trees ; thin out the shoots where the trees are likely to be crowded with too much wood, and stop the other shoots back to the same distance as recommended above. Remove all runners from the strawberry-beds, unless they are required for layering ; by doing it now, a lot of trouble will be saved hereafter, as it can be done in less than half the time. A few doses of liquid manure will help to swell off the late crops. Forcing. — The bottom-heat in which the pines are plunged must not be allowed to decline now — more especially in the fruiting-house. Shift into larger pots suckers and succession plants that are getting pot-bound. Make up a bed of tan or warm leaves in one of the pits lately occupied with bedding-plants, and remove thereto all the small stuff, to give the large plants more room. Vines in all stages to have abundant ventilation early in the day. The borders must be kept well supplied with water, excepting where the grapes are just colouring. Peaches and nectarines must be well aired directly the crop begins to ripen, and the lights taken off, where practicable, soon after it is gathered ; or, failing the ability to do that, the ventilators must be opened as wide as possible, and the trees regularly syringed. Plenty of moisture at the roots will also be necessary, to enable them to swell up the buds for next year. Figs must be kept rather cool and dry whilst the first crop is ripening, and then, when the bulk is gathered, it can be kept moist and close to push on the second lot. 1SG HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS. OYAL Horticultural Society's Azalea Show, April 17. — This was in every way an attractive exhibition, notwithstanding the entire absence of any striking features. Cyclamens were shown in good condition by Mr. Wiggins and Mr. James, Isleworth, and Mr. Fair bairn, Sion House. Oineraiias were not plentiful, Mr. James and Messrs. Dobson and Son being the principal exhibitors. The best varieties staged were Lord Elgin, Snow- flake, Conqueror, Perfection, Lady Theodore Grosvenor, Candidate, William Reeves, Agiippa, Uncle Toby, and Mrs. Eeeves. Auriculas were exhibited by the two veteran growers, Mr. C. Turner, Slough, and Mr. James, in very good condition, though not equal to those staged by them iu former years. The best of the varieties shown were — Selfs : Turner's George Light- body, Turner's Prince Alfred, Spalding's Metropolitan, Lightbody's Meteor Flag, Smith's Mrs. Smith, Headly's Royal Purple. White-edged: Summerscale's Catherina, Lightbody's Countess of Dunmore, Heap's Smiling Beauty. Grey-edged: Turner's Competitor, Wild's Bright Phoebus, Turner's Colonel Cliampneys, Olliver's Lovely Ann, Chapman's Sophia, Warris's Union. Green-edged .• Traill's General Neil, Dickson's Prince Albert, Partington's Trafalgar. Alpines : Mr. Turner sent a splendid collection of new varieties. We regret we cannot just now describe them, for want of space, but the cultivator cannot do wrong in adding to his list any of the following as soon as they are let out. The Alpines have many advan- tages over the show varieties ; they are easy to propagate and grow, and also have larger and more richly- coloured flowers. Many of the undei mentioned varieties have flowers exceeding two inches in diameter. We give the names of twenty-four of the I ist, which would make a good collection of distinct varieties : — Midnight, Tenniel, Millais, Neatness, Mabel, Conspicua, Negro, Landseer, Borealis, Etty, Neptune, Herbett, George Fordham, Emblem, Nimrod, Demon, Eclat, Godfrey, Harry, John Gair, Merrimac, Arthur, Ardent, Goldfinder. The Azaleas were mostly half specimens. Those from Mr. Turner, which took first in the nurserymen's class for six, were round-headed standards, so densely flowered as scarcely to leave a leaf perceptible. The leading prize-takers in the amateur's classes were — Mr. Wheeler, Regent's Park ; Mr. Fairbairn, Sion ; and Mr. Wilkie. The best of those staged were — Rosea odorata, Baron de Pret, Souvenir de l'Exposition, Triumphans. Hovibrenki, Due de Nassau, Etendaid de Flandre, Marie Vervaene, Stella, Sir C. Napier, and Roi Leopold. Royal Botanic Society's Second Spuing Show, April 27.— This exhibition was rendered particularly attractive by the introduction of a class for flowering and fine foliage stove and greenhouse plants. This was well contested by Mr. Fairbairn and Mr. Wheeler, Regent's Park, who were awarded equal firsts ; and Mr. Wright, St. John's Wood, and Mr. Wilkie, Kensington, who were secund and third lespectively. Good Cinerarias and Pelargoniums were contributed by Messrs. Dobson and Son, Isleworth, and Auriculas by Messrs. Turner, James, and Butcher. Pot Roses formed a large and important feature of the show, Mr. W. Paul, Waltham, taking first for nine, and also for three new varieties ; Messrs. Paul and Son being second in both classes ; Mr. James first for six in the amateur's class. Of" the established varieties, Francoise Lacharme, Victor Verdier, Madame Willermoz, Madame W. Paul, Vicomtesse de Cazes, Souvenir d'un Ami, Paul Ricaut, Madame de St. Joseph, Se"nateur Vaisse, Glory of Waltham, Alba rosea, John Hopper, Pierre Notting, Souvenir d:Elise Vardon, Baron Adolphe de Rothschild, Madlle. Therese Jjevet, Celine Forrestier, Madlle. Rady, President, and Princess Mary of Cambridge, were the best. The new varieties were — Horace Vernet, large and globular, crimson scarlet,. fine ; Mons. Furtado, light yellow, good ; Antoine Ditcher, too globular to show the face of the petals ; Madame Margoltm, flue tea; Imperatrice Charlotte, rosy pink, inferior to others in the same way. Grand collections of miscellaneous plants came from Mr. B. S. Williams, Hollo- way, Mr. W. Paul, and groups of exotic ferns from other exhibitors. Royal Horticultural Society's Rose Show, May 8. — This was a capital show, but as the varieties were chiefly the same as those enumerated in the pre- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 187 ceding report, it will not be necessary for us to go through them again. The exhibitors in the trade class for nine were Mr. W. Paul, Mr. Turner, and Messrs. Paul and Son, the prices being awarded in the order in which the names stand. Mr. James also acquitted himself well in the amateur's class for sis. Mr. C. Turner was first with twelve new roses of 1SG7-8, having Baroness Rothschild, fine, large, and globular, pink ; Duchesse d'Aosle, deep pink, large finely-shaped flowers; La France, pink, not so good as Baronesse Rothschild ; Madame Alice Dureau, in the way of Anna Alexieff; Pitord, dark velvety purple, rather too open in the centre when fully expanded ; Souvenir de Francoise Ponsard, poor, flat flower, not worth growing ; Reine du Portugal, fine large tea rose, with coppery-yellow flowers ; Reine du Midi, large and full, bright rose, fine ; Miss Ingram, very richly coloured, fully realizing all that has been said in its favour. Mr. W. Paul sent several boxes of cut Roses ; Mr. James, collections of Tansies, in pots, and cut-blooms, Polyan- thuses, Auriculas, British Ferns, and Herbaceous Calceolarias ; Mr. Turner, miscellaneous plants ; Mr. Ware and Mr. Salter, Alpines and hardy ornamental foliage plants ; and Messrs. Standish, a collection of choice plants, too numerous to mention. Cbystal Palace First Great Exhibition, May 15.— The grandest features of this exhibition were the magnificent collections of Stov2 and Greenhouse Plants, Azaleas, and Heaths. Orchids, show and fancy Pelargoniums, and Roses were also good, but not contributed in such large quantities as the three first-mentioned classes of plants were. For Stove and Greenhouse Plants, Mr. Chapman, gardener to J. Spode, Esq., Hawkesyard, Rugelev ; Mr.Wilkie, Oak Lodge, Kensington ; and Mr. Ward, gardener to J. F. Wilkins, Esq., Leyton, took first prizes in the several classes allotted to them in the amateur's division. Messrs. Glendinning, Chiswick, first, and Messrs. Jackson and Sons, Kingston, second, in the class set apart for the trade. To go through each collection is out of the ques- tion, and we can only find space to enumerate the names of a few of the most striking objects, such as Stephanotis floribunda, Rhyncospermum jas- minoides, Medinilla magnifies, Eriostemon nerifiorum, E. pulchellum, Leschen- aultia forrnosa, Kenneyda inophylla floribunda, Chorozema Lawrenceana, C. cor- datum splendens, C. varia Chandlerii, Imatophyllum miniatum, Ixora coccinea, Epacris miniata splendens, Pimelia spectabilis, P. Hendersoni, Adenandra fragrans, Cierodendron Balfour i, Dracophyllum gracile, Genetyllis tulipifera, G. Hookerii, Franciscea confertiflora, and Acrophyllum venosum — all of which are first-rate. Mr. Williams was the leading prize-taker for Azaleas in the trade classes, and Mr. Carson, Cheam, and Mr. Chapman, amongst amateurs. The best varieties staged were Chelsoni, Magnet, Stella, Madame Miellez, Cedo Nulli, Murrayana, Belle Gantoise, President, Iveryana, Criterion, Etoile de Gand, Adelaide de Nassau, Model, Eulalie Van Geert, and Leeana superba. Ericas were shown in grand con- dition by Mr. Ward ; Mr. Reed, Lower Norwood ; Mr. Rhodes, Sydenham ; and Messrs. Jackson. Of these, the most beautiful and distinct were, Fairreana, Mas- soni major, Tricolor elegans, Lindleyana, Candidissima, Ventricosa coccinea minor, Devonianum, Victoria Regina, Alberti, Eximea superba, Aristata major, Elegans, and Wilsoni. Roses, Orchids, and Pelargoniums were good in quality, though limited in number ; but owing to the limited space at our disposal for this purpose, we cannot extend our notice of them beyond saying, that the several collections were in every way worthy of the exhibitors. TO CORRESPONDENTS. TV. Dorset. — The plants you name are all planted out of the pots ; but there is no special objection to plunging the Echeverias and Sempervivums. Three-inch pots will be the most suitable size. The Alternantheras must be strong and well hardened off before planted out, to insure their doing well. A. N. — We should not advise you to disturb the tuberose, now that it is throwing up its flower-spike. The Gardenias are all right ; the one that has done flowering blooms earlier than the others. The exact time at which the several species flower depends upen the time the growth and maturation of the wood was finished the previous season. 188 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Balsams in the Open Border. — Alpha. — There is very little difficulty attached to having a good display of these out-of-doors. You can either sow the seed where it is to remain, or sow under cover and plant out ; the latter would be the quickest, but it must not be put in a very strong heat, or the plants will be tender, and ill able to stand the open air. Let the ground be well dug up, and plenty of manure or leaf-mould worked in. Plant out fifteen inches apart, and give a few copious supplies of water until established. It will be advisable to remove the first flowers from the main stem, to enable the plants to get to a large size before flowering. You will not get such large or perfectly-formed flowers upon the side-branches as on the main stem ; but that is of little consequence, for ■what we look for out-of-doors is ablaze of bloom rather than a few large flowers. The most distinct self-coloured varieties produce the grandest effect in the open air. Any respectable house will supply you with good seeds. Cause of Dew. — W. H. H. — The deposition of dew on plants exposed to the open air arises from a condensation of the atmosphere in their immediate neigh- bourhood. A clear and cloudless sky radiates little or no heat towards the surface of the earth, therefore all objects placed on the surface, which are good radiators, must necessarily fall in temperature during the night, if they are not exposed to the radiation of other objects near them. All vegetable products are in general good radiators ; grass particularly so. The vegetation which covers the earth's surface will, on a clear night, undergo a depression of temperature, because it will absorb less heat than it radiates. The vegetables which thus acquire a lower tem- perature than the atmosphere reduce the air immediately contiguous to them to a temperature below saturation, and a proportionately copious condensation of vapour takes place, aud a deposition of dew is formed on the leaves and flowers. In fact, .every object, in proportion as it is a good radiator, receives a deposition of moisture. On the other hand, objects which are bad radiators are observed to be free from dew. As an illustration of this, you will find that blades of grass will sustain large pellucid dew-drops, while the naked soil in their immediate neighbourhood is free from them. Dew is commonly supposed to fall from above, because plants that have a covering suspended above them are quite dry during a heavy deposition on others exposed ; even when they are fully exposed to the air on all sides ; whereas the influence of the covering is solely confined to its checking the radia- tion, and thereby preventing the usual condensation of atmospheric moisture. Lantanas for Greenhouse. — Amicus. — It is getting late to buy these in for this year, unless you can procure bushy plants in large 60 s, and with three or four shoots each. To satisfy yourself upon this point, inquire at some of the principal nurseries. Supposing you to be able to get stout, bushy plants, shift them at once into six-inch pots, and directly they are nicely established, uip out every growing point. After the pots are full of roots, but before the plants get pot-bound, shift into nine-inch pots, and stop again as before, when the plants begin to feel at home in their new quarters. No more stopping will be necessary after this, and the young growth must be neatly trained out with a few stakes. With the aid of a brisk- giowing atmosphere, and frequent syringing overhead, you can quickly obtain good-sized specimens. The plants must not be placed in too great a heat, or be deprived of sufficient air, or the wood will be thin and long-jointed. You can obtain tlie whole of the accompanying selection for twelve or eighteen shillings. Adolphe Weick, yellow and carmine ; Alba ltdea grandiflora, white and yellow ; F. Monfek, rich crimson ; Hendersoni, bright rose and white, with yellow tips ; ISlSsperance, orange and purple ; Madame Rougier Chauviere, yellow-red aud ecarlet ; Madame Victor Lemoine, Monsieur Boucharlet Aine, yellow and lilac ; Rcempler, deep red ; Rogiteloire, yellowish, changing to amaranth ; T'icfoire, white, yellow centre ; Willielm Schulc, rosy flesh. Pot in good turfy loam, leaf-mould, and sand, with the addition of a little well-decayed manure. Inga pulcherrima.— Miss T. — As the beautiful tassel-like clusters of flowers are produced on the previous season's growth, you must not prune until the plants have done flowering. They must be pruned shortly afterwards, and repotted when the young growth is nicely started. A warm greenhouse is the best place •for them through the winter. The main point to insure plenty of flowers is to get the wood strong and well ripened by autumn. Introduce the plants into a forcing- house in October, when by careful treatment they can be had in flower at Christmas. Let the pots be well drained, and use peat, loam, and leaf-mould in equal parts, with a liberal addition of sand. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 189 Destroying Chickweed. — J. C. C, Dalston. — We are afraid that your garden suffered sad neglect last year, to Lave been allowed to get overrun with this weed. It is rather a troublesome affair to get rid of it in wet seasons, when it has once got ahead ; but after a dry, hot summer like that of last year, there ought not to have been a single plant to be seen in the autumn. There is no remedy but hand- weeding and hoeing, both of which will effect wonders if persevered with. The plants ought to be destroyed before they seed, or you will never be rid of them. We expect the ground is now full of seed, and a certain amount of perseverance will be necessary to enable you to rid your garden of your enemy. Raising Seedling Conifers. — A Subscriber. — Sow the seeds of conifers some time in March, in drills in the open ground, or in pans in a cold frame, according to the rarity or quantity of the seed of the respective subjects. If out-of-doors, select a sheltered corner, and sow in drills rather thin. Take up every autumn, and replant to give them more room to grow, and also encourage the production of plenty of fibrous roots, so that they can be removed with safety when large enough to be planted in their permanent quarters. The other query will be answered next month, when the reply will be more useful to our readers generally than now. Beetles and Cockroaches. — M. F. — The old-fashioned way of poisoning these obnoxious insects was by spreading slices of pumpkin or sugared bread with red lead. It is a somewhat dangerous proceeding, because cats and dons, and even human beings, may, by some accident, partake of the poison, and perish. We name it, however, because the Floral World is read in many distant places, where small vermin abound, and the remedy par excellence, phosphoric paste, can- not be obtained. There are many preparations of phosphorus to be obtained of chemists and general dealers, and we believe there is not much difference amongst them as to quality. The sort we use is called " Forbes's Composition," the whole- sale depot for which is at 13a, Symons Street, Sloane Square, London, S.W. There is another good preparation, called " Chase's Beetle Paste," which also consists of phosphorus, The way to use these phosphor pastes is to put pieces as large as a hazel nut on slips of paper or caijd in the places the beetles frequent. They should not be put down until late at night, and when there is no likelihood of any light appearing for some hours. In every case, what is left of the paste should be kept closely covered up, or it will soon be useless. Many people fail with these phosphor pastes through their careless way of using them ; they put the baits down too soon, and they are spoilt by the atmosphere before the beetles can make a feast on them. Ants. — M. F. — There are many ways of destroying ants, but, as in many similar cases, most of them are more or less dangerous. We have never tried the phosphor paste recommended for the destruction of beetles, hut we have found a mixture ot arsenic with sugar and water effect a rapid and complete clearance. The poison may be placed within their range in a saucer, which should be covered with a piece of board or slate, with a brick or stone laid over, leaving a few crevices for the ants to enter ; this is to prevent other animals getting to it. In the case of ants forming a nest in the soil of a flower-pot, the simplest mode of procedure is to immerse the pot to the rim in water for several hours, which will kill them all, and do the plant no harm. When ants begin to make nests in a bed of flowers, take a large tiower-pot, stop up the hole in it, and invert it over the spot ; they will build up into it, and after a time the pot containing the nest and the whole of the brood may be taken away, and dropped into a deep vessel of water. In the case of ants infesting a plant-house or a store-room, proceed as follows : — Procure a few- pieces of the coarsest sponge, and place them in rough saucers (porcelain saucers are too smooth for the ants to travel over them freely), and then sprinkle over the sponge some powdered lump sugar. They will soon discover the sugar, and crowd the sponge. Throw the sponges into boiling water, and when the ants are killed, squeeze them dry, and bait them again with sugar. By following this up, any place may be cleared of ants in a day or two. Todea pellucida. — Captain R. T. — This lovely fern is so nearly hardy, that it may be grown in any greenhouse. Though of delicate texture, it does not need to be stifled in a glass case, though it is a capital case fern, if need be. Shade and moisture, and a rather still atmosphere, are essential to the production of a fine plant, but stove treatment and stifling are both bad for it, except when very young. We have it planted out in a cool fernery under glass, and doing well ; also in pots, 190 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. in a rather sunny house, where the shading of two thicknesses of tiffany keeps it as fresh as if it were beside a fountain in its native land. Flo WEii- pots. — W. B. — A"cast'' of pots or pans is the whole number of a given size made out of a given bulk of clay. In various parts of the country the sizes and shapes of pots differ considerably, so do the qualities also. Most of the pots made at the potteries near London are good, and the best we have yet obtained of large size are those made by Messrs. Adams Brothers, Belle Isle, King's Cross, who not only use good clay, but are particular about the burning of them. It is no use, however, to send to them for small quantities. The sizes of pots made by most of the London potteries are as follows: — 60 to the cast, technically called '•'sixties," three inches diameter; 54's, four inches diameter; 48's, five 'inches diameter ; 32 s, six inches diameter ; 24'?, eight inches diameter ; 16's, nine inches diameter; 12s, eleven inches diameter ; 8 s, twelve inches diameter; 6's, thirteen inches diameter ; 4's, fifteen inches diameter ; 2's, eighteen inches diameter ; l'Sj twenty inches diameter. The pots called uprights are now almost out of use. They are made straight, like common chimney.pots, and are intended for plants that form perpendicular roots, such as hyacinths, etc. Cultivators find them scarcely advantagcous, as compared with common pots, and they are most objectionable on the score of ugliness, whether used in the conservatory or exhibition stage. Golden Fern. — Lady D. N. — When Gymnogrammas die at the points of the fronds, it may be conjectured that they are either badly drained or are kept too damp and too cold. As we cannot see the plants, we advise you first to ascer- tain if they are properly potted ; the drainage must be perfect. Next consider if they are exposed to drip, or if they get too much water, or if they are subject to draughts, or if they are too cold, for any of these evil conditions may occur in places where these beautiful ferns are not much grown. G. chrysophylla is the finest of the whole family, and is called the "King of the Gold Ferns." It is a native of South America and the West Indies. The proper place for it is the stove; it should have a rich peaty soil, with plenty of sharp, well-washed sand, and never allow the fronds to be ivet ted. When the dowers* of pot roses fog off, it maybe owing to bad drainage, a very damp and cold atmosphere, or want of ventilation. The Editor never supplies books or seeds. You can get the "Rose Book" through any bookseller; the price is 5s. Propagating a Grape Vine bt Circumpositiox. — Tyro. — In rooting a shoot of a vine by this method, care must be taken to ascertain first how it can be drawn through a pot without injury, and next, which is the best ptrt of the shoot on which to make the incision. The best way usually is to enlarge the hole in the bottom of an eight-inch pot, so that the shoot can be drawn through without injuring the leaves, as the leaves on the upper part of the shoot must be preserved entire. Having settled these few matters, the rest is easy. Cut an incision three parts round the shoot, and an eighth of an inch wide ; let it be just deep enough for the removal of the bark. The incision or ring should of course be made at some point in the shoot near the base, and where, when it is drawn through the pot, it will be about two indies below the rim. Remove all the leaves from that part of the shoot which is to be covered with soil, and cut out with :t penknife the buds situated in their axils. Now draw the shoot through the pot, and fix the pot firmly. Put in two inches depth of small broken bricks, and fill up with light rich soil ; press rather firm, and water. It only remains to keep the shoot neatly trained so as to grow upright, and its full length, and the soil in the pot always moist. Roots will come quickly, and the pot will be filled with them. It is best to allow the shoot to remain until the end of the season, and when the leaves begin to change colour is a good signal for the separation of the young vine from its parent. Cut it through, with a small, fine, sharp saw, close under the pot, and lay it on its side, so as to hasten the healing of the stump. Roast the young vine in the full sun, and it will be fit for any purpose for which a young, strong, well-rooted vine may be required. Own-hoot Roses. — A Subscriber. — The propagation of these from cuttings is not a difficult affair, if you go the right way about it. Early in July make up a bed with a few dry leaves or half-rotten manure, just sufficient to warm the soil with which it is to be covered ; tan or half-spent hops will also answer admirably. When the bed is made up firm, to a height of about two feet above the grotmd level, and the frame placed thereon, mix up enough soil to cover it about nine inches in thickness, put it in the frame, and then cover with half an inch of sand ; either THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 191 silver or river sand will do. The soil must be rather light — such as may be obtained by mixing fibrous loam and leaf-mould together in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one of the latter. After the soil has been spread regularly over the surface of the fermenting materials, made firm, and the sand spread over that and well watered through a fine rose, everything will be in readiness for the reception of the cuttings. The best wood for cutting is the stout, healthy, half-ripened shoots that have not flowered. Now, if you cut these back about half-way, the remaining portion will break and flower freely in the autumn, and the piece taken off will supply you with materials for propagating. The top portion of the shoots will be too soft for the purpose, so cut these pieces back to the third leaf, and throw away the top portion. Cut clean just under the joint, remove the lower leaf, and dibble them in firm up to the second or middle joint. After they are put in, give one good watering to settle the soil. Keep the frame close and shaded until the cuttings begin to callus, and are able to bear the air. They must be frequently sprinkled lightly, and the sand kept just moist. If it is too wet, the cuttings will rot. What is required is an atmosphere just moist enough to keep the leaves fresh, and no more. A little air will be necessary to keep the atmosphere sweet ; but it will be well to keep the lights quite close for the first few days, and then for the next two weeks the lights should be tilted about half an inch. After that, of course, more will be necessary. The rooted cuttings can remain where they are until spring, or be taken up in the autumn, and potted. In any case, they should have the protection of a cold frame during the winter. Pruning Roses. — C. E. C. T. — You have read the " Rose Book " carelessly. Read again from page 86 to page 90. The whole case may be put thus — pruning must be performed at all seasons, but the spring pruning is the most important of all, and the particular pruning then required should be performed late rather than early, as explained at page 88. G. M. Hewitt. — The best book on the vine is that by William Thomson, pub- lished by Blackwood, price 5& Floral World. — Country Squire. — A fi;w complete sets remain of the Floral World, from 1858 tc 18(38. Complete sets of the " Garden Oracle" do not exist, but yon can have all except that for 1867. Union Fly. — Yorkshire Gardener. — The onion fly, Anthomya ceparum, rarely makes much havoc iu beds that have been surfaced with charcoal, for the fly la\rs her eggs in the charcoal instead of in the young plant, and the maggots consequently perish. This is one of the reasons why charccal dressings are so useful ; another reason is that the material is nourishing, and absorptive of sun heat. On light soils, where this fly is commonly obnoxious, great benefit will result from a thin coatino- of fresh gas lime laid between the lows ; of course this can only be done where the onions are sown in drills, which indeed is the proper way to sow seed of all kinds • broadcasting renders it next to impossible to cultivate properly. Flora. — We can make nothing else than " ramo-marginatum" of your Scolopen- drium, of which it appears to be a very rich and fertile form. Trailer for North Border. — Inquirer. — "Something to grow on the border, and hang over the stones ; aspect north." Well, you might have a lot of pretty things. Suppose you fix upon a certain number of subjects, and repeat them again and a°-ain till the whole length of the border is filled at about eighteen inches apart. You might have six kinds of Periwinkles, namel}r, Yinca major, and its varieties elegantissima and reticulata ; Yinca minor, and its varieties argentea and aurea ; Ajuga reptans, and its three varieties, fol. var., alba maculata, and purpurescens ; Alyssum saxatile, and its variety fol. var. ; Arabis alpina, and its variety fol. var. ; Ballota nigra (a rather coarse plant) and its variety fol. var. argentea ; Chelidonium majus, and its variety fol. var. ; Giechoma hederacea fol. var. aurea maculata (the specific form not worth having) ; Iberis sempervirens, Lamium album fol. var. (specific form not worth having) ; Lysimachia nummularia, and its variety fol. var. ; Melissa officinalis fol. var.; Prunella vulgaris, and its variety fol. var. ; Saxifraga umbrosa, and its variety fol. var. ; Salvia cbamaj Irilolia, Thymus lanuginosum, Trifoliam rubrum pictum. You have thus choice of a number of beautiful hardy plants, allot' which if left alone will grow into great tufts, and " hang over" the stone edging. If you do not want many, secure first all the specific forms, or have varieties only of such as are easily procurable in your district. If there is a moderate amount of sun on the border in summer time, you might plant ivy-leaved Geraniums and Mesembryanthemums 192 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. near the edge, and they would also fall over. We had almost forgotten two gems of rare value, though as common as ill-tempers ; they are Tormentilla reptans, the common yellow- flowered tormentil, and Linaria cymbalaria, the common toad flax. These will form beards of leaf and flower on the face of the stonework. Shrubs for a Hot Dry Border. — Vindicator will be thankful to have the names of a few flowering shrubs suitable to plant on a very hot dry border where evergreens have a starved appearance. For a hot dry position, the Cistus family are admirably adapted. The following are the best : C. albidus, cvispus, incanus, ladaniferus, lusitanicus, pnrpureus, roseus, and salvifolius. These average three feet high, with the exception of ladaniferus, which grows to a height of five feet. Another fine shrub for such a position is the well-known and much-admired Althea frutex, of which there are at least a dozen varieties in cultivation, and from which you could select according to your wants, bearing in mind that they are all good, and that they bloom superbly in autumn. Calycanthus floridus, the American all- spice, would suit you. Cercis siliquastrum, the Judas tree, may be kept down by pruning, to the dimensions of a shrub, and is very beautiful when in flower in May; but if allowed to get up, forms a tree twenty feet high. The pretty Weigelia rosea is quite indispensable, and will be quite at home where you want the trees. Pyrus Japonica makes a fine flowering shrub, and any soil or situation suits it. Forsythia viridissima would be a valuable shrub for spring flowers. The crimson, pink, and white double-flowering peach and several other varieties of peaches grown for deco- rative purposes, would answer admirably in the form of bushes. Lastly, it is a first- rate position for the Pomegranate, of which there are half a dozen fine varieties. You must not attempt to grow roses or rhododendrons in such a . s] Rose ^Garland. — P. C. — Messrs. Major and Son, nurserymen, Knosthorpe, near Leeds, can supply you with a book of patterns for flower- beds. We do not know the price, but they will tell you all about it if you write to them. Country Bee-Master will oblige by forwarding his name and address. M. A. H. — Let us have a sketch of the bed, with measurement. Packing of Bulbs for Export.— Can you aid an amateur at a distance and a disciple at your feet, by naming some nurseryman in the old country, with not too much business, who would not be unwilling to help a customer at the antipodes in the development of an interesting experiment. I am a great grower of bulbs of all kinds suited to a hot climate, and like to import direct for myself, so as each year to have something new and interesting which my neighbours have not. The enormous expense, however, of importing packages as articles of freight by the mail steamer, as well as the distance of Brisbane from the port of arrival, are serious obstacles in rry way. I have, theiefore, lately been trying the parcel post as a means of transmission, but have hitherto signally failed. Whether the leading nurserymen with whom I have dealt have not taken pains with my orders on account of their apparent insignificance I cannot tell ; but this I know, that package after package has failed, and that they were not put up according to my instructions. If the parcel post can be made an effective menns of transmitting bulbs, much service may he rendered to the Queensland horticulturalist, because the same method would doubt- less answer for vegetable and other seeds ; and in the name of the amateurs of this distant part of the world, I invite your readers to give us the benefit of their expe- rience, and shall feel favoured by seeing in the first number of the Floral World published after receipt of this an answer to the question put at its commencement by a Queensland Subscriber. [The writer of the foregoing is engaged in a great scientific undertaking which has already benefited the colony of Queensland to an immense extent, and promises to be yet tenfold more beneficial in the future. We beg of any of our readers who have had experience in the transmission of seeds and bulbs to distant parts, to communicate with us on the subject, if they can add any- thing to the following note kindly furnished by Messrs. Cutbush and Son, nursery- men, of Highgate, near London.] "Seeds will go well to the colonies by parcels post if packed in oiled silk bags, and, being transparent, the contents can be seen through by the Post-office authorities. We have never failed in the safe transmission of bulbs when packed dry in charcoal dust, provided the proper season is selected, but they have always been despatched by the quickest route, and the box containing them lined with tin and hermetically closed up. We should much like to hear from jour correspondent what he wishes to have sent out, and would endeavour to n cet his views, and contend against any of the mishaps which he appears to have pre- viously met with. — Cutbush a>d Son." E& 3 DOUBt E-FLOW'- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. JULY, 1869 DOUBLE-FLOWERING- ZONAL PELARGONIUMS. With figure of Victor. BY JOHN WALSH. HETHER we shall have a yellow or blue flowered zonate variety, is as yet doubtful. There is no finality in Nature, and it is just as possible that we may, by steadily working onwards in the right direction, get one or both of these colours, as have such double flowers as the beautiful variety figured this month. Perhaps there may be a whole string of reasons to account for the production of the double flowers, and the non-production of these colours, which I, as an amateur, know nothing about : at all events, a lew years back the one was as little expected as the other. A few of the best of the varieties, of which Victor is the type, have flowers so well formed and full, as to leave it an open question whether the individual flowers may not be left alone for the present, and the breeder's attention be devoted to checking the gross luxu- riance of growth, and promote a much freer development of inflorescence. There is plenty of room for improvement here, so that the hybridizer need not, like Alexander, sit down and mourn because he has conquered the whole world. Mind, I do not say that the flowers are perfect in shape ; and so far from advancing anything of that kind, I believe there is sufficient work to last any number of raisers for the next ten years to bring them to perfection. The gross habit and immense size of the individual leaves are so objectionable, that both must be considerably reduced before the double-flowering varieties attain that popularity which the long- lasting qualities of the flowers entitle them to. They are invaluable for bouquets and vases, as the petals do not drop so quickly as those of single flowers do, and, beside, they have a much better appearance than auy of the single ones. The trusses are as yet small in com- parison with that grand nosegay, Fire King, and one or two others ; VOL. IV. — NO. VII. 13 1G4 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. but for ordinary purposes, we could put up with that defect if they were produced as profusely as that gem of bedding geraniums, Thomas Moore. The treatment of these must materially differ from the sug- gestions thrown out in my communication in the Floral World for June, when speaking about the single varieties. The plants must be grown in poor, hungry soil, and potted hard, or there will be an excess of leafage and few flowers. With regard to other matters, in the way of stopping and training, my directions can be followed, but no liquid manure must be used, unless it be in an extreme case. As an example, when a plant is in a very small pot and potted in very poor stuff, and flowering freely, a dose once a week will just keep the growth steadily progressing, and help the production of fresh flowers. Nothing short of bordering on starvation will make them flower well; therefore, very little manure water will be needed. I use for my plants fibry loam, mixed with pieces of broken sand- stone or plenty of silver-sand, and use as small a pot as practicable. I have not had much experience with them as bedders. The plants of Globe de Nancy, turned out last year, grew so strong and produced so few flowers, that I am quite convinced they are of no use for outdoor beds, when dealt with in the ordinary way. I tried a few plunged, and they flowered rather freely at first ; but when the roots got outside the pots, as they did towards the end of July, the growth was nearly as rampant as that of those planted out. The flowers stand well out of doors; the petals are not so quickly knocked off with a shower of rain or a gust of wind, as those belonging to the single flowers. I have great faith in double-flowering zonals, and believe that some day we shall see them occupying a prominent position in the flower garden. We have already the principal colours to be met with amongst the zonals, and what now remains of most importance is the reduction of the habit. Several are entered in the catalogues as " dwarf," " free," " splendid bedders," etc. ; but it is a delusion, unless masses of green leafage are wanted. I have been particularly partial to this section, and have managed to get together all the best. I have given them con- siderable attention from the first, and here offer my opinion of their respective merits. I have not had Victor very long ; but it has produced some splendid trusses of its bright orange-scarlet flowers. I saw it several times before it was sent out, and I have no hesi- tation in pronouncing it to be the best of its colour. Andrew Henderson and Auguste Ferrier are both good bright scarlet varieties ; the latter is not quite so full as a few others, and has a white eye or centre, but nevertheless is good. The trade catalogues will persist in calling that fine variety, Gloire de Nancy, " rosy-pink," and Madame Lemoine, " carmine, changing to scarlet ;" whereas I find the colours reversed. My plants of Glory produce flowers as near in colour to Richard Headly as anything I know of, and Madame approaches in hue very closely to Christine and a few others of that type of colouring. These two ought to be in every collection. Wilhelm THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 195 Pfltzer is another grand variety, with orange-scarlet flowers. In Triomphe, Triomphe de Lorraine, and Triomplie de Thumesnil, we have three good varieties, of different shades of red and crimson- scarlet. I have one or two other passable varieties, but a3 they are not equal to the above, I have refrained from naming them. The above recommended are a good collection to begin with. INDOOR CULTURE OF HARDY FERNS. BT GEORGE GEAT, Head Gardener, Norbiton Hall, Kingston. |T may perhaps seem strange to advise the growth of hardy plants under glass, whilst we have so many tender things that require shelter and protection. I hope, however, to show, in the course of my remarks, that I am well justified in so doing. In the neighbourhood of all large towns there are hundreds of villas which have little glass structures, facetiously termed by the builders "conservatories." These are generally placed in a position that renders their being heated by the ordinary flue or hot-water apparatus simply impossible, without having a chimney smoking away under the bedroom window. They are also frequently overshadowed with the adjoining walls in a way to prevent a glimpse of sun ever reaching them, besides a large pro- portion of the common daylight being obscured. To grow tender plants, portable stoves — which are in most cases portable nuisances — have to be brought into action. When plants that require an abundance of light and air, and protection from frost, are attempted to be grown, general failure is the result, and the owner is exposed to annoyance and expense for nothing. How can it be otherwise ? How can it be expected for amateurs, who have very little practical knowledge of plant-growing, to succeed under circumstances that would baffle us professionals ? But, nevertheless, the people so situated are worthy of our sympathy, and we are bound to help them if we can. To make this class of house an ornament to the garden, and a pleasure to the owner, plants must be grown that will thrive under the adverse conditions pointed out above. Hardy ferns aro better adapted for this work than anything I am acquainted with, unless the position be very sunny, and then succulent plants are better. They will not grow without attention or trouble, but they can be grown with less care than the heaps of soft-wooded stuff with which these places are generally filled ; and, what is of more importance still, no heating apparatus is required : all the bother and expense in that direction are thus entirely dispensed with. The form of the house must decide whether the plants are to be grown in pots or planted out. There is much pleasure in dealing with them in both ways ; but where a little rockery can be made, planting out is by far the best plan. They will grow with greater freedom, and with less 196 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. than one half the attention required by others in pots, besides having a more natural appearance. The " rockwork " may be made to resemble a natural rock, or be merely a bank faced with a few pieces of " burrs " to keep the soil in its place. Unless the construction of the rockery can be placed in the hands of some one who has had a little practice in that sort of work, it will be quite as well to be content with a bank of soil. If the house is square, the bank can be made next the sides all round, with a group of ferns in the centre. If long, a bank on two sides, with a walk down the middle, will be preferable. The position being determined upon, a wall about twelve inches in height should be built with rough pieces of stone, or vitrified bricks, to keep the soil in its proper place. A layer of brickbats ought also to be put underneath the soil to prevent its getting too wet. This done, the soil can be brought in, and the bed in which the plants are to be turned out made. The bank should have a sloping direction, with a few pieces of " burr" and logs of wood introduced to form irregular terraces, with projections here and there to receive upright-growing kinds, to prevent the affair having a flat appearance when planted. It would take up too much space to go minutely into this part of the matter, and therefore I must content myself with sayino- that when the whole is completed it should have a natural look, as if it was intended for growing ferns, rather thau for a display of the builder's art. I very often meet with costly artificial affairs, made with a few pockets to hold the soil in, which do not hold so much as a five-inch pot, and large plants are expected to grow in them. Such a mode of procedure is absurd. Ivy planted to clothe the walls, and pieces of wood employed in the construction of the bank, and also trained over the low wall along the front, will give the whole such a thoroughly natural look as to be at once surprising and delightful. I wonder we do not see ivy used more freely in cool ferneries indoors, considering how well adapted it is for that purpose. JNearly all the ferns that I shall name will thrive in a mixture of two parts silky loam, two parts soft fibry peat, one part leaf-mould, half a part sand (river sand will do), and half a part of broken sandstone, ranging from pieces the size of one's fist to the size of a walnut. If the sandstone cannot be had, break up about the same quantity of hard-baked bricks. Soft bricks that will soon go to a powder are of little use. The reason for mixing the pieces with the compost is to keep it open and porous, and to allow the water to per- colate freely through it. The depth of soil should vary from eighteen inches to three feet, and in filling in add one barrowful of burrs to every four barrowfuls of the prepared compost. These mixed throughout the whole body of the soil will give it the character of real rockwork, and the plants will thrive accordingly, as the roots Tike to run along the side of anything of that description. The pieces of wood ought to be fixed in their plnces before the soil is filled in, and then there will be little fear of their letting the soil down. TVe bank should be in a nice moist condition, and made firm to prevent its sinking after the ferns are planted. This way of making THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 197 banks for ferns is much better than building them first and then filling in the crevices afterwards. It is very 3eldom that when the latter method is adopted, the ferns have enough to feed upon, and in consequence perish from starvation. A certain amount of taste and judgment is necessary in arrang- ing the plants to produce an artificial effect. All the tall-growing sorts should not be arranged at the back and the dwarfs in front, or the bank will have a tame, formal appearance; neither must tho largest be placed in front to shut the small ones out. The most simple way is to plant the tall strong growers in groups by them- selves, and the same with the dwarfs. The more delicate kinds should be planted on the points that project out, to prevent their being smothered, and the drooping and upright growers placed alternately. Beyond these hints I must leave the arrangement to the planter's taste. For pot culture the same soil should be used for potting as recommended above, leaving out the sandstone. One shift in March will generally carry the plants through the season. The pots must be well drained, and the soil filled in firm. Beyond that, the treat- ment differs very little from that required by those planted out. It is a difficult matter to deal with the watering, because I cannot say how much or how often water should be applied. Once a week will be enough for those planted out, but those in pots will require looking over every day, and ought to be watered whenever the soil is dry. Three or four times a week in the growing season will be sufficient, but in the winter, so long as the soil is moist, no water will be wanted. Over-watering at any time, particularly in the winter, will do considerable injury to the health of the plants. On the other hand, the plants must not suffer from drought ; even the deciduous kinds, in the winter, must not be allowed to get dust dry. Sufficient air must be admitted to prevent the fronds becom- ing drawn up thin and spindly ; but beyond that no ventilation will be required. If in very smoky districts, a woollen net ought to be stretched across the openings for admitting air, to prevent the admission of " blacks," which get on the fronds and do considerable damage. A gentle sprinkle overhead once a day in the growing season wiil keep the fronds fresh and clean, and promote a luxuriant growth. Let us now consider the best sorts to plant. I have used the term " hardy " advisedly, because if I had confined myself strictly to ferns indigenous to this country, I should have been bound to omit many worthy objects that are little known and deserving more general cultivation. I shall not name any high-priced sorts, a3 there are more than enough to make beautiful such a house as I have had in my mind's eye thus far, without paying an extravagant rate for them. I should like to add a few descriptive remarks, but that is entirely out of the question, as it would take up more space than I can lay claim to. I shall be careful in naming such only as are distinct and good in their respective genera. There need, therefore, be no fear of selecting, ad lib., from the accompanying list :— Taking the British species first, we have the pretty little Maiden- 198 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. hair Fern, Adiantum capillus-veneris, and then pass on to the Asple- niums. A. adiantum nigrum is very dwarf, and does best on a dry part of the rockery. A. marinum thrives anywhere in the shade. The Lady Ferns are remarkable for the elegauce of their light- green feathery fronds. Select Athyrium filix-fceviina, A. f.f. conioides, A. f.f. corymb if erum, A. f.f. difjisum, A. f.f. Fieldice, A. f.f Frizellia;, A. f.f. gra/ndiceps, A. f.f. lu/ifolium, A. f.f. plumosum, A.f.f. ramo-cristatum, A. f. f thyssanolum, A. f.f Vernonice, A. f.f. Victories. The Hard Ferns are dwarf and free — Blechnum spicant, and its varieties imbricatum and ramosum, being equal to any amongst them. The Bladder Fern, Cystopteris fragilis, and its variety Diclcieana, are also beautiful. In the Buckler Ferns we have plants of upright habit and stronger growth than any previously named. The following are indispensable to all hardy ferneries : — Lastrea dilatata collina, L. fili.e-mas. Baruesii, Jj.f.m. Bollandice, L.fm. cristata, L.fm.furcans, L.f.in. grandiceps. The Boyal Fern, Osmunda regalis, and its beautiful variety cristata, should be planted at a low part of the fernery, where it can get plenty of moisture at all times. The genus Pok podium gives us plants that do well for growing in shallow soils. P. dryopteris, P. pliegopteris, P. vulgare are indis- pensable. The last-named will grow on blocks of wood, with the aid of a layer of moss. P. cambrieum and P. semilacerum are fine. From the free and elegant-growing Shield Ferns, select Poly- stichum acideatum, lobatum, P. annulare cristahim, P. a. Elworthii, P. a. grandiceps, P. a. proliferum Wollastonii. Lastly, we come to the Hart's-tonjjue Fern, and from this alone we might select a hundred varieties. We shall here be content with half-a-dozen : — Scolopendriwm vulgare, 8. v. crispum, S. v. fissum, 8. v. oidiviafoliinn, S. v. macrosuvi, and S. v. undulato-lobatum. I shall not name many Hardy Exotica, but we cannot do better than begin with Adiantum pedatum, and follow on with Asploimm angust /folium, Gyrtomiumfalcalum (valuable for hot, sunny situations), Lastrea opaca, L. Sieboldii, Pulysticl/itm sclosum, Struthiopteris Ger- manica, 8. Pennsylvanica, JVoodioardia, orientalis, and W. radicans. The two latter should be planted in a situation that will admit of their large graceful drooping fronds spreading out in a natural man- ner. Grown in pots, and elevated on the stump of an old tree, they have a magnificent appearance. "When the amateur has succeeded in establishing these, more will be desired. It will not be difficult to find many noble species adapted for the unheated fernery, in addition to the group here especially recommended to the notice of beginners. 199 COLEUS, OLD AND NEW. BY GEORGE GORDON. i|T will not be necessary for ine to enter into the treatment of this genus for bedding purposes. The remarks in the January number of the Eloral "World, under the heading of " Notes on Subtropical Gardening," effec- tually dispose of that part of the subject ; besides, it is now too late for this season to talk about the preparation of the plants. I shall, therefore, simply content myself with giving my opinion upon the merits of the best of the varieties for the several uses to which they are adapted, and offer a few remarks upon their culture in pots. It would take up too much valuable space to discuss the merits of all that have been brought forward within the past twelve months, and a sketch of the characters of the best will be just as serviceable, perhaps more so. The colouring of all the new'varieties is quite distinct from that of Yerschaffelti, which still holds its own in the depth and warmth of its rich colour. Taking the batch let out in the early part of last summer, we have Bcrkeleyi. This has been condemned by one or two writers as too dingy for bedding purposes, whereas, I am convinced that it is the best of the lot. The colour is a rich chocolate-purple, with scarcely a trace of green. The leaves in shape are in way of Veitchii, but larger, and brighter in colour. Under glass the colouring is particularly rich, but out of doors it has more of a brownish shade than Verschaifelti, and can be used for a different style of colouring than that good old species. Bausei is good for pots only ; the green crenatures which add so much to its beauty as a pot plant curl up too much out of doors, and become objectionable. In colour, Batemanii and Iiucleeri are as much alike as two peas, but with different shaped leafage — that of the former is frilled, whilst the latter is flat and regular. Both have been highly lauded as bedders, rather too much so. They are very well adapted for the second row of a ribbon border, or a very small bed, as they grow slowly. The colouring becomes dull outside, and, notwithstanding its intensity, it scarcely equals in richness the Perilla, which has the advantage of a free habit, and requiring no room through the winter. The only advantage in using the Coleus is the ease with which the plants can be kept down to the required level. Hendersoni is a few shades darker than Berkeley!, and well adapted for back rows or centres of large beds, as it has a very .strong habit. Marsltalli is exactly like Hendersoni in freedom of growth and in colour, but the leaf-stalks are so objectionably long as to leave it an open question whether it would not be advantageous to quash the name at once. Another of the varieties let out by Mr. Bull, named Gem, also gave great promise as a bedder, the growth being free and compact, with a clear, rich colour. The last batch of Chiswick Coleus are perfectly distinct from the first, and the colouring of the best varieties is so gorgeous as to 200 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. make it a matter of sheer impossibility to exaggerate the splendour of their leafage. The two best are Queen Victoria and Princess Royal. It is a difficult matter to say which has the brightest colour, but I fancy there is a greater depth in the former. It has one grand point in its favour, and that is, the additional strength of its consti- tution. Plants of Queen Victoria, placed by the side of Princess Royal in a cool house through the past winter, made double the growth, and for that reason I am induced to give it the preference for bedding and other decorative purposes. Both have bright crimson-scarlet leaves, with narrow margin of greenish yellow. DuJce of Edinburgh is also a fine variety in the same way as the preceding. Albert Victor and Baroness Rothschild bear a close resemblance to each other in habit and colour. Both are good, but, of the two, I consider the Baroness to be the best. Princess of Wales has a fine rich colour, which would produce a glorious effect in the flower garden if it will stand ; I am afraid of it. Prince of Wales and Her Majesty are also good, with the bronzy red colour of Verschaffelti. They have good, robust constitutions, and are likely to stand out of doors better than any of the lot, though not so bright in colour. The two pretty varieties, Prince Arthur and Princess Beatrice, have nearly self-coloured golden leaves, are dwarf in habit, and will be valuable for edging ribbons and beds of the other varieties. Whether they will exceed in usefulness or effective- ness, the several beautiful varieties of geraniums we have in the sections of self-coloured and bronze zonals has yet to be proved. They will certainly be useful for sake of variety, but I am doubtful of their superseding for edging purposes such useful golden-leaved geraniums as Gold Leaf, Golden Banner, Golden Pleece, Mulberry Zone, Countess of Kellie, Mrs. Barry, and a few other choice varieties. There are two or three sports that deserve a passing notice. Beauty of St. John's Wood, Aurea Marginata, and Carteri, are all sports from Verschaffelti, with golden margins ; the second is a good bedder, not distinguishable at a distance from Verschaffelti ; the other two are pretty, but I know nothing of their bedding capabilities. Telfordi Aurea is a sport from Blumei. During the early part of last year it was full of promise for bedding purpose, but unfortu- nately it has proved a failure everywhere ; it h$s no constitution. Beauty of Widmore is also a sport from Blumei, the margins are pure white with green and pink blotches in the centre ; novel in colour, but delicate. Verschaffelti has long been a favourite of mine for table decora- tion. Pretty little plants can be easily grown, and have a beautiful effect on the table in conjunction with the rest of the trappings. These new varieties, however, quite supersede it for this work, as they have foliage better in shape and richer in colour. The three best for the table are, Queen Victoria, Princess Royal, and Baroness Rothschild. The black frilled leafage of Batemanii has also a good effect, and a few plants ought to be grown of it for sake of variety. Berkeleyi and Saundersi also form charming little specimens ; both have the advantage of large richly coloured leaves that look well under gaslight. These all grow so free that no cultural details are THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 201 really necessary ; the cuttings will strike anywhere, provided they get warmth and moisture, in combination with a close atmosphere and sufficient light ; a mixture of equal parts loam, peat, and leaf- mould, with a sixth part of silver or river sand, will grow and colour them to perfection. The plants must be kept leather potbound, and close to the glass, to develop the true colour. An intermediate house is the best for growing the plants in, as they get coarse and run out of character when kept in too great a heat. The plants can be grown in the shape of bushes or allowed to run up one stem ; I think the latter is the best for the table, as the leaves get so much larger, and, consequently, have a better effect. Potting on and pinching into shape are all that is necessary, beyond the usual routine of watering, etc., to get large specimens. A few of the latter should be grown for cutting from through the winter, for epergne dressing. A few healthy shoots intermixed with the flowers and fern fronds have a grand effect. A temperature of 50°, with a moderate amount of air, and just sufficient water at the roots to keep the plants fresh, will suit them admirably. To get the true colour properly developed the plants must be kept near the glass, with full exposure to the light, excepting when the sun is very bright, and then a thin shade will be beneficial. EAISING- AMARYLLIS FROM SEED. BY J. BAXTEK, Head Gardener to C. Keizer, Esq., Broxbourne. f|HEjN[ a few of the erroneous ideas which exist in rela- tion to the culture of these beautiful bulbs can be dispelled, we may venture to hope that they will receive a fuller recognition from plant-growers of all grades than at present. Until that is accomplished it is of little use to expect seeing them taking a leading position amongst decorative plants. There has been as much nonsense written upon Amaryllis culture, as upon any other subject that can be men- tioned. I believe that quite fifteen out of every twenty writers who handle the theme have no real practical knowledge of the matter in hand, and thus the errors promulgated many years back by some ignorant scribe, are handed down from one to the other with the same religious care as precious heirlooms in ancient families pass from father to son. In almost all treatises upon the management of the Amaryllis, we read directions for starting the bulbs in " strong bottom-heat," for " placing the bulbs upon, or close to, the flue or hot-water pipes, during the season of rest," and other points which are as injurious as they are unnecessary for the production of a strong growth and good flowers. I shall frame my remarks in direct reference to raising Amaryllis from seed, because that is really the only means by which a stock can be got up in a short time, and at little expense. I want to see these things grown in large quantities for conservatory decoration, and 202 THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. not to be looked upon as curiosities, and only adapted for those who have the convenience of a large establishment. With the aid of a greenhouse and vinery, a very beautiful collection may be grown ; but let us return to the propagation, and then the succeeding direc- tions will show how far this assertion is confirmed. There is more pleasure attached to raising seedlings of this genus than of many others, because of the probability that in a large batch there will be very few bad varieties, if a judicious selec- tion of parents is made. Within the past few years I have flowered a large number, and out of the whole lot I have not had what may be termed one ugly flower, and about fifteen per cent, have received first-class certificates from the Royal Horticultural Society. The quality of the seedlings will, of course, depend upon the parents ; therefore, only those which have well-formed and richly-coloured flowers should be set apart for seed-bearing. Those which have the best formed flowers should be selected for the seed-parent, and others that are the most remarkable for richness and purity of colouring for the pollen parent. Light and air are essential to the thorough maturation of the seed ; therefore, as the plants go out of flower, they should be placed in a light airy position in an intermediate house, where a genial growing temperature is maintained, and where they can be screened from the direct rays of the sun. The seed should be sown imme- diately it is ripe, for I find it germinates better at that time than when it is kept until the spring. The usual precautions of having light, sandy soil, and well-drained pots, and other matters common to raising all kinds of seedlings, must be observed with the greatest strictness. We generally place our seed-pots in a melon or cucumber frame, and stand them upon a piece of board to prevent the worms getting through the hole in the bottom. After the plants are nicely up, and have from three to four leaves each, instead of leaving them in the seed-pan until the following spring, as we fre- quently see recommended, prick them off at once into five-inch pots, putting about half-a-dozen bulbs in each. Keep them steadily growing through the winter in a temperature of about GO', and give just sufficient water to keep the foliage fresh and green. It is not necessary, or desirable, to dry the bulbs off in the winter ; but should any show a disposition to go to rest, by all means withhold water from them, and place the puts upon a cool bottom in the greenhouse. There will not be many that will want to go to rest the first winter, or need drying off. This brings us to the spring potting; and before I go any further I had better say a few words about the compost most suitable for them. This can be disposed of in a few words, for they require nothing beyond good turfy loam full of fibre, and mellow from having laid by for the pi'evious six or twelve months, mixed with a fifth part of thoroughly-decayed hotbed manure. The soil should be used moderately rough, excepting for the first potting, as the bulbs are then small, and will not readily root into rough stufl'. When they are potted oft' singly into small pots, the soil should be chopped up rather fine, and of course a liberal quantity of silver- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 203 sand added. For the first potting, I use three-inch pots, in which the stock is grown until the following spring, and then shifted into either five or six-inch pots, according to the strength of the individual bulbs. These sizes will grow good strong bulbs, and they must make wonderful progress to require a shift into a larger size the following spring. Over-potting, or frequent shifts, are alike injurious to these subjects; a fresh put once in two or three years is quite often enough, and I will undertake to grow better plants that way than can be accomplished by the annual shift so often practised. The Amaryllis is excessively impatient of being dis- turbed at the roots, and without doubt it is a matter of sheer impos- sibility to get well-flowered specimens if they are repotted every year. I shake out a few every year, trim the roots a little, and then repot in fresh soil. By that means I can always keep the collection in condition. I make it a rule not to allow those shifted to flower the season afterwards, so as to give the bulbs time to recover themselves and strengthen. To enable the bulb to stand in the same pot for two or three successive years, particular attention must be paid to the drainage. The pots must be carefully crocked, and a few pieces of rough turf placed over the drainage to prevent the soil running down and choking it up. As a rule I put from one to two inches of crocks, broken moderately small, in each pot, and place them in carefully, for I detest the careless way of shooting them in without thought or care. Here I will observe that the pots into which the seedlings are pricked off, should be filled to quite two-thirds of their depth witli crocks, to prevent the existence of the slightest danger from the soil getting too wet at any time. "We repot our bulbs that require that attention early in spring, and just before they start into growth. But, bear in mind, that only those which begin to present a starved appearance from being in the pot too long, or those which have their roots out of order from imperfect drainage, should be touched. All the others should be left alone. In passing, it will be well to say that the soil must be pressed in firm at the first, and all subsequent shifts. Amaryllis will stand forcing very well, but it is not advisable to start them too early if required for conservatory decoration, as that structure will be too cold for the tender growth and flowers. Gene- rally speaking, we begin about the end of February, and those which show the most prominent signs of activity are started first. In a batch of seedlings the constitution of each individual will differ materially from its fellows, and it is only by close attention to the habit and constitution of each plant that successful results are possible. To keep up a succession, we draft out a batch about every three weeks, as long as they last, and place them in warmth to start, each time select- ing the most forward for pushing on. Theideathatthese require astrong bottom-heat for starting them into growth is wrong altogether. I never plunge or give mine bottom-heat in any way, and 1 have no difficulty in getting them to grow and flower well, at all events, sufficiently so to enable me to take the only two first prizes offered for Amaryllis this season in the metropolis. The collections by means of which I 204- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. obtained these prizes were made up entirely with seedlings of my own raising. 1 place the pots upon the ordinary stages in a plant- house, the temperature of which is generally maintained at about 60° by fire-heat. Here they remain until they come into bloom, and then go into the conservatory until the beauty of the flowers is past. During their stay in the conservatory they should have the advantage of a position free from draughts of all kinds. As the flowers fade, they must go back into the house to finish their growth. A decided season of rest is essential to the bulbs, but it is by no means necessary to dry half the life out of them in resting them. It is a serious mistake to suppose it to be necessary to place them contiguous to the heating apparatus, and hundreds, nay thousands, of bulbs are injured annually from this cause. I winter mine in an ordinary greenhouse, and stand the pots upon a bed of coal-ashes for the purpose of keeping a moderately moist atmosphere about them. Here it will be necessary to observe that the drying-off must be done in a gradual manner. When this is accomplished properly the foliage will sometimes remain fresh and plump for a couple of months without water. So long as the plants are thoroughly at rest, it matters not whether the foliage dies away altogether, or a few leaves remain green throughout the winter. For my own part, I like to see two or three of the young centre leaves remaining. Bulbs preserved in the way suggested wdl flower with double the strength of others wintered in a roasting temperature. With respect to watering, little need be said. When first started, one good watering to wet the soil thoroughly will be required, and then no more must be applied until it gets dry again. From this stage increase the supply according to the progress the growth is making, by giving it at more frequent intervals. Of course when in full growth more liberal supplies will be necessary, but over- watering must be carefully guarded against in all stages. This precaution is particularly necessary in dealing with those newly- potted. After the first year regular supplies of weak manure water will be of great assistance in promoting a vigorous growth. When the full growth is made the water must be given at longer intervals, but the foliage must not be allowed to shrivel or flag, but die ofl' in a gradual and natural manner. MUSHROOM CULTURE. BY NATHAN COLE, Head Gardener at Kensington Palace Gardens. [HE mushroom, Agaricus campestris, is such a genera- favourite with ali classes, from the peer to the peasant, that I may be pardoned for offering a few remarks upon its culture. The mushroom can be grown under a great diversity of circumstances and situations. Good crops can be had from out of doors, from an ordinary cellar, from a well- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 205 built mushroom-house, or from an outhouse or shed. A well-con- structed house, fitted up expressly for cultivating this edible, is certainly the best, and will more than doubly repay the small outlay over makeshift and uncertain contrivances. Though good crops can be had from cellars, there are many objections to employing them for that purpose. It is not nice to take the manure, etc., necessary to the construction of the beds through the house ; besides the injurious influence, the noxious gases which emanate from fermenting matter, is likely to have upon the health of the inhabitants. For the guidance of those who contemplate the erection of a structure expressly for mushroom growing, I will throw out a few hints upon that part of the subject. The best form of house is what is commonly known as a " span roof," ten feet wide, and with side walls nine feet high. These dimensions will give room for three tiers of shelves three feet and a- half wide, and leave room for a three feet walk down the centre. The length must depend upon the quantity required ; twelve or fifteen feet will do for ordinary families. The shelves can be formed with slates or stout planks ; the first are preferable in every way, but costly, and supported with stout posts or brick pillars. Twelve inches is a good depth for each shelf, which should be about two feet apart, the first being placed on the ground. The roof must be plastered for the purpose of pre- serving an equable temperature at all times. Hollow walls are also desirable if they can be afforded. With respect to heat, a four-inch flow and return pipe will be sufficient to maintain a proper tem- perature ; but unless they can be connected with a boiler used for heating other houses, it will hardly be worth while to incur the expense of a hot-water apparatus, as an ordinary flue will do quite as well. Placed under the path, and covered with an iron grating, or a lattice of wood for walking upon, the pipes or flue will heat every part of the house alike, and take up no room available for other purposes. It will be well to have two or three openings in the apex of the roof, for giving air when necessary. The only objection that can be raised against having an open lattice-work to walk upon is the likelihood of its becoming choked up when making up new or taking away old beds. That objection can be easily overcome by laying down two or three mats. Where lean-to or other sheds already exist, they can be fitted up in much the same manner as advised for the new house, which is the most perfect form that can be devised. The formation of the beds must now occupy our attention. Begin by collecting a quantity of fresh horse-dung that has neither been exposed to wet nor fermentation, clearing it from the long straw, so as to leave one-fourth in quantity of the shortest litter when incor- porated with the horse-droppings ; then add a fourth part of tolerably dry turf-mould, or other maiden earth, and mix it well with the dung. The advantage derived from this mould or maiden earth is the union of the whole into one compact solid substance, so congenial to the growth of mushrooms. This compost should be spread out for a. week or so to dry under cover, and turned over once in two or three 206 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. days to keep it from fermenting, for it loses its necessary element (nitrogen) if allowed to do so. This is the substance from which the mushrooms derive their principal supply of nourishment, and nitrogen is found in considerable quantities in the dung of horses, and without it the cultivator cannot attain success. I will just remark that whether the beds are made on the floor of an outhouse, or upon the shelves of a mushroom-house, the prin- ciple is the same. The beds must be made up firm and solid, or little success will attend the cultivator's efforts. The compost should be rammed hard as the filling-in goes on ; not filled up and beaten on the top, for it is then impossible to make it so firm as it should be at the bottom. I generally proceed by giving the bed a thorough beating, as each layer of two or three inches of compost is put in, and by that means I have no difficulty in forming it sufficiently solid and compact. Ten inches of compost will be a proper depth, and when it begins to heat, and is likely to get too hot, holes must be bored regularly over the bed, at a distance of eight or nine inches apart, to prevent it heating too violently. Watch the bed closely, and directly the heat declines, and the temperature stands at 80° or 90°, fill in the holes to within two inches of the surface with the same compost as used for the bed, and then insert a piece of spawn about the size of a small hen's egg in each. In a few days after spawning, put on a covering of maiden loam, neither too wet nor too dry, two inches in thickness, and beat firm as before. The soil can be put on at once, if there is no danger of the bed overheating. JSTo time must be lost either in spawning the bed or covering it with soil, after the danger of overheating is past, or the heat will be gone before the spawn begins to run, and a long time will elapse before the bed commences to bear. Beds that are made up in cold houses should also have a covering of dry hay to retain the heat ; those in a heated structure are best un- covered, so as to expose the mushrooms tothe influence of the air ; they require this element to give them a good flavour, and without it they are not wholesome, nor are they so solid and fine, for they grow thin, lanky, and well-nigh flavourless in a very close and confined atmosphere. Too high a temperature will also impair the quality of the mushrooms, and render the beds less productive ; from 50° to 60° may be taken as a safe average. In watering the beds the utmost caution is necessary, for they are frequently very seriously injured through having too much, or from its being applied too cold. So long as the materials of which the beds are composed feel moist, no water will be required : this can be easily ascertained by thrusting the hand into the bed. Water should always be applied about the warmth of new milk, and through a fine rose. If the bed happen to get dry, give several gentle waterings instead of one thorough soaking. Good spawn must be used, otherwise the heat of the bed will be wasted, and get too cold for the reception of a second lot of spawn. Beds prepared as advised, will begin to bear in six weeks from the time of spawning, and last about two months in full bearing. A few mushrooms will continue to come longer than that ; but they do not follow in THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 207 sufficient quantities to be profitable. To keep up a succession throughout the whole year, a fresh bed should be made every two months, or oftener if there is a large demand for them. la gathering the mushrooms, great care should be taken not to disturb the small buttons that surround the stem of those which are more early matured. The best method is to cut them off, and then cautiously twist out the remaining portion of the stems, which can be easily done without injuring the others, with a careful hand. The base of the stems must not be allowed to remain, for they soon rot and do a lot of mischief. Very good crops can be had out-of-doors, where labour and materials for forming the beds are plentiful; but there is so much litter attached to outdoor beds, and the results are so precarious, as to render the outdoor cultivation of mushrooms unfit for private places. I have frequently had good crops through the winter, by spawning the melon-beds after the old vines are removed, and keeping a steady temperature of 55° or 60'\ as advised for the mush- room. The surface ought to be covered with dry hay, but I have frequently kept plants in the frame and then had plenty of mush- rooms without taking any especial care of them. To insure a regular supply, a house devoted especially to their culture is essential, as extemporized contrivances are likely to break down just at the time when the crop is more particularly required. A few good dishes may be had by growing them in pots or boxes. These should be three parts filled with the same material as was recom- mended for the bed ; the earth and the spawn the same — in fact, just the same in material and making. The pots or boxes may be placed in a hotbed made of leaves and dung. A flower-pot full of mushrooms is a very pretty object, and with a bell-glass over it, it makes a very attractive and interesting ornament for a drawing- room. PREPARING- STRAWBERRY PLANTS FOR FORCING. BY WILLIAM COLE, Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex. j]N the January number of the Floral World, I ventured to offer a few remarks upon the management of Straw- berry Plants, during their stay in the forcing-house. It is a 'well known fact, though not always acted upon, that unless the plants are strong, and the crowns well ripened by the autumn, it is impossible to have a good crop the following season. With the permission of our worthy Editor, I now propose to offer a few suggestions that may be useful to those who are desirous of getting up a stock for next year. It is like putting the cart before the horse, to treat upon that part of the subject which relates to forcing first, and the preparation and growth of the plants afterwards ; but be that as it may, I feel assured that a few 20S THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. observations upon the last-mentioned part of the subject, will not be altogether out of place at this moment. I suppose the simple operation of layering runners of this fruit to be familiar to the principal part of my readers ; therefore, it is not necessary for me to enlarge upon it at any length. There are, however, several ways of doing it, or to speak correctly, several modifications of the proper way. Many cultivators fancy that it is of little importance what soil is used for the small pots in which they are layered, and the treatment the plants receive during their stay in them, and a few go to the other extreme, and plunge the pots in the beds. Now, I have no objection to the latter plan being pursued, provided it can be done without injuring the roots of the permanent plants, but it is not necessary, and takes up time that can be more profitably employed. I know scores of gardeners who simply take a few pegs and the empty pots, and dig up the soil out of the beds for filling them, and never dream of using maiden soil until the shift into the fruiting pots. It is a slovenly way, and the plants never make such a strong growth, as they otherwise would do if they had good maiden loam to start in. I use the same compost for both runner and fruiting pots, and the only difference made is, that it is used rather rougher for the latter. I am not favourable to the use of too large a proportion of manure in the compost, as it is apt to get sour and pasty towards the winter, and is then in an unfavourable condition for the preser- vation of the roots in good order through that season. I have mine prepared in the proportion of three parts good turfy loam, and one part thoroughly decayed hotbed manure, chopped up rather roughly, and well incorporated. Fresh loam may be used, but that which has been laid by for six or twelve months is preferable. The runners should be layered at once, or there will not be time for them to become strong by the autumn. We take the soil and pots (60's), with a few crocks and pegs in a barrow, and fill the pots with soil, as the layering goes on ; and I find it a more expedi- tious method, than when the pots are filled at the potting bench, and carried to the beds with a handbarrow. The stoutest of the first runners should be selected and pegged securely to the surface of the soil, and the second lot which start from the first should be removed. These should be kept well watered, until they are nicely rooted, and then be cut off and placed in a shady position to recover them- selves. In gathering the fruit, care should be taken not to displace the runners or knock over the pots. It is a good plan to layer a hundred or so more than the number required, and then choice can be had of good strong plants, and the weak ones be discarded. In about a fortnight from the time of their removal from the parent plants, the whole lot can be shifted into the fruiting pots. I use six-inch or 32 size, and I believe that they produce better crops in that size than any other. Each pot should have an inch depth of moderate-sized pieces of crocks in the bottom, and a thin layer of half-rotten dung spread over them to keep the soil in its place. A few pieces of lumpy soil should then be placed in the bottom, and rammed in firm with the potting stick, and the young plant set upon THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 209 it, and the sides filled in firmly with the prepared compost. The crown of the plant should stand well up, and the soil slope gradually to the sides of the pot. This must not be overdone, aud the slope from the centre to the sides should not exceed a quarter of an inch. It is very important to pay particular attention to the drainage ; for unless that is in good order, one half of the plants will probably go blind, and produce nothing but leaves. It will also be necessary to leave sufficient space to hold plenty of water ; half or three quarters of an inch will be sufficient. A bed of coal ashes, not less than six inches in thickness, should be made up in an open position for the reception of the stock after it is potted. The pots may be placed close together, and thinned out when the foliage begins to meet, or set at the proper distance apart at once. That is merely a matter of detail, which can be safely left with the cultivator, but they should have a comfortable ash bed to stand upon. The worms seriously injure a large proportion when they are placed about on the gravel walks, and in out-of-the- way corners, according as there may be room for them. When the pots are full of roots, or the plants in full growth in the forcing-house, an abundant supply of water at the roots is neces- sary ; but when they are first potted, it must be administered with the greatest care. I consider manure water quite unnecessary until the flowers begin to push up in the spring. I am always particular in having mine watered with soft water ; and when that is scarce, as it was last summer, and there is no choice about using spring water, we expose it to the atmosphere for twenty-four hours previously. After the beginning of October very little artificial watering will be necessary, as we generally get plenty of rain at that season : more frequently we get too much, as the growth ought to be finished by that time, and the plants at rest. The soil must not get dust dry, or considerable injury will be done. By the end of October the whole of the stock should be shifted into cold frames, or fruit-houses that are not at work, and where they can have free exposure to the air, but be sheltered from rain. Where house room cannot be spared, it is a very good plan to lay the pots upon their sides, and stack them one upon the other. The foliage, as a matter of course, must face outwards, and the two bottom rows should be about four feet apart. The succeeding rows should be placed so that they will meet at about the sixth from the bottom, and the stack roughly resemble a pyramid, thus /\. To keep the pots in their place, the spaces between should be filled with dry leaves or litter. These stacks can easily be protected from heavy rains or frosts, with the help of a few straw hurdles or mats, and the plants remain uninjured until they are draughted into the houses. If pos- sible, they ought to have a fortnight's probation in a cold house pre- vious to taking up their abode in the forcing-house. vol. iv. — NO. VII. 14 210 THE LADIES' GARDEN.— No. VII. BY J. C. CLAEKE, Head Gardener at Cothelston House, Taunton. |F the white and blue Eorget-me-Nots, which I recom- mended to be sown last month, are up and doing well, they should receive regular attention in watering in dry weather, and if brilliant sunshine should set in this month, they will be benefited by the shade of a few lanrel or spruce branches laid lightly over them. The main point in their cultivation is to keep them constantly growing at this season, or mildew is liable to attack them, and kill the whole lot. Raising them from seed is undoubtedly the easiest method for all our readers. But as I use many hundreds of them for spring gardening, I find I get an earlier display of flowers from old plants that have been divided. I take up and divide those which have flowered, and plant them in a shady spot. Early in August is the best time to do this. They are finally transferred to the flower-garden early in November. Even seedlings are best when transplanted in August, for the plants grow stronger, and, consequently, flower earlier and better. In arranging them for flowering, 1 may remark that the blue is so soft and delicate in its colouring, that the white, when used in equal numbers with it, is too strong in tone to be used in equal quantity. Eor that reason quite double the quantity of blue should be used where they are planted in the same bed for a contrast. The next easiest subjects for our readers to manage, and withal most desirable, are the Double Daisies. These, whether used in mixture or in separate colours, are the most pleasing things ima- ginable, for they flower so early and so long, and, above all, are so certain and easy to cultivate, that no spring garden can be said to be complete without them. A lot secured now, and divided and planted out in a shady border, will come in capitally next November for filling the beds which the bedding plants have occupied. In the month of May following they can be removed again back to the shady border, and in like mauner the changes may go on from year to year, the tufts being divided when needful. There are several varieties of the double daisies. The most telling are the white and dark crimson, but all the intermediate shades are good. Our friends who love spring flowers must not forget the common ■tohite and variegated-leaved Arabis : the first a glorious early spring flower, very easy to cultivate and increase by division ; the varie- o-ated-leaved arabis is equally desirable, only it is later in flowering. Its well-defined, variegated foliage makes it a superb plant, whether in flower or out. The pretty and lasting Aubrietias are all glorious subjects, but they are not quite so easy to manage, as they do not divide and increase readily when treated as hardy plants. However, the stock once secured, there is no difficulty in keeping it up. Aubrietia THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 211 deltoides and A. 'purpurea are the two kinds most generally used ; nevertheless, A. Campbelli and the little variegated-leaved variety are gems of the first quality. In summer they delight in shade, and require to be planted rather thickly to make a good show. Any light ordinary soil will grow them. In my display of spring flowers this year, the most telling beds consisted of Iberis Gibraltica, white, and Ahjssum saxatile compaction, yellow. These were really superb, not only for their distinctive characters, but also for the length of time they lasted in bloom. My present plants I have used two years, and I think they will do the same duties for two years longer, so that the labour of keeping up a stock is not so great as some suppose. They are carefully lifted from the reserve ground in the autumn, and taken to the beds, and from these brought back again when they go out of flower. Like most of the spring flowers, they like shade in summer. Seedling Pansies make showy and lasting beds. The seed should be sown in July, in a large pan or box, and placed iu the shade, there to remain until the seedlings are up, when they should be pricked out four inches apart, in a fine rich border. They will make nice plants by the 1st of November. The Double Primroses are exceedingly pretty, but, alas! very scarce. Nevertheless, they must, if possible, be secured ; and the doable white and double lilac are the commonest kinds, and may be used in lines or in separate beds. Every reasonable attention should be given to the Polyanthus. "We use these largely here, for the reason that with a few weeks' mild weather in the depth of winter they never fail to flower. My stock in the first instance was raised from seed, from which, when they flowered, the worst kinds were weeded out. Seed sown in July, and kept in the shade, will soon produce a lot of plants. Those in October, planted out in a good rich soil, will flower well the following March. In the west of England the scarce and choice kinds are not desirable for bedding, as they do not flower early enough. I doubt, indeed, if the beautiful laced flowers of the florists are adapted for bedding anywhere. At all events, our Editor can tell us, for he is a cultivator of the laced flowers, and has some charming sorts. The spring-flowering bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, and Crocuses, etc., are too well known to need my recommendation. At the same time, I may say that people who have never seen the effect of early-flowering tulips mingled in the beds amongst the_ subjects I have been recommending, can form no idea whatever of the effect they produce. The coloured plate in the Elokal Would of September, 1868, faintly suggests how tulips look when their bold flowers stand up amidst surfacings of candytuft, arabis, alys- sum, forget-me-not, etc., etc. Those of our readers who will first plant their beds with these low-growing plants, and then put clumps of tulips and hyacinths all over the beds amongst the other things, will never regret the trouble and expense. 212 EAISING NEW VAEIETIES OF ZONAL GEEANIUMS. CHAPTEE IV. |N describing the mode of applying the pollen at page 180, the use of a camel's-hair pencil is advised. It was in order to be brief that I stopped there, haviug, as I thought, provided novices in the art with work enough to do. I shall now say that the practice I follow when I can afford the time to be very particular, is to take off a flower from the pollen parent, when the pollen is ripe, pull the petals from it, and then touch the stigmas of the seed parent with it, when quite a cloud of pollen falls where it is required ; and if the stigmas are ripe at the time, a cross may be depended on. This plan has this advantage over the use of the pencil, that it is not attended with the risk of an admixture of pollen, for there may be a few grains left on the pencil that you would gladly be without. But where a large number are to be crossed, the pencil is to be preferred. I shall now offer a few rules for operators. They represent many years of observation and experiment, and I hope will not be con- sidered any less valuable because of the small space they occupy. To breed for large flowers use pollen from the long stamens ; both parents should be of the best form possible. If any difference, follow the old rule — take pollen from the best-coloured flower, make the best-formed flower the seed parent. Whites and scarlets bred together produce several shades of cerise and pink. To breed for bedding plants. — The orthodox method is to take pollen from the short stamens only ; and in selecting the parents to consider habit and colour without respect to form. The orthodox method will secure you plenty of ugly flowers, very few good ones. Better follow my plan of breeding from long stamens always, and take your chance of dwarf plants adapted for bedding. My Thomas Moore is a long-stamened plant ; it is none too vigorous for a bedder, and the flowers are so grand, that no one who has enjoyed its beauty for a season would dream of going back to Tom Thumb again. To breed for Tricolors. — Select for seed parent a vigorous dark- leaved zonal, such as Monsieur Barre, or Madame Vaucher, for example. A flat or slightly convex, thick textured, perfectly round leaf, without lobes, is to be desired. In a batch of seedlings you will always have plenty of good breeders for tricolors. Cross the flowers with pollen taken from tricolors of the finest kinds you can get. Variegates and bicolors may be bred the same way. Never breed tricolors or variegates together, for the progeny will be worthless. Green zonals crossed with gold-edged or self varieties will produce a good proportion of bicolors ; such as Cloth of Gold and Golden Chain make good pollen parents. To breed for double flowers. — Cross the finest singles with the pollen of the doubles, and you will get plenty of seed, from which you may expect your share of double flowers. Crossing the other way does not answer, as it is difficult to induce the doubles to form seed, though they have pollen in plenty. S. H. 213 NEW BOOKS. The Parks, Promenades, and Gardens of Paris.* By W. Robinson, F.L.S. Mr. Robinson has amply redeemed the promises he made us in his amusing " Gleanings from French Gardens." His new and larger book is such a one as every English gentleman should have upon his table for a year, and in his library for ever after ; for it is rich in information, altogether new, seasoned with criticisms and reflections that are both original and true. It is a comprehensive book, much more so than might be inferred from the title, though that is appropriate enough. It comprises descriptions of the parks, squares, boulevards, and other places of out- door resort of the Parisians, as well as of such embellishments of an architectural kind as would most readily engage the attention of a broad-minded observer of national tastes and customs. As we cannot afford so much space for a notice of this book as it undoubtedly deserves, we will briefly enumerate its contents, and then make a few short extracts from its pages. About one half the volume is devoted to descriptions and criticisms of the public parks and promenades of Paris. In connection with these descriptions, which are fresh and original, and bring out many facts which ordinary observers have taken no notice of, there are many comparisons instituted between Paris and London, usually, but not invariably, to the disadvantage of our own great city. Mr. Robinson is justifiably anxious that we should adopt some of the French notions on the outward embellishment of cities, and those who read his book with care will, in great part, if they do not wholly, agree with him. Another large section of the book is devoted to fruit culture, the object being to make English pomologists acquainted with French modes of grafting and training fruit-trees, in many particulars of which they are confessedly in advance of us — so much so, that France has been described as the " orchard of Europe." The decoration of apartments with plants in Paris forms another im- portant subject, which is ably and amply treated. Then we have sections devoted to sub-tropical gardening, to the forcing of fruits and vegetables for market, and a most amusing account of the enormous production of mushrooms in quarries, cellars, and other subterranean gardens in Paris. To afford our readers some idea of judging for themselves how important and valuable a book this is, we subjoin a few extracts accompanied with woodcuts, which the author has obligingly furnished us with : — PLANT DECORATION OF APARTMENTS. " Merely displaying a few popular or showy subjects is not plant decoration in any high sense ! Rooms are often overcrowded with ornaments, many of them exact representations of natural objects ; but in the case of the plants we may, without inconvenience, enjoy and preserve the living natural objects themselves. Those we employ for this purpose now are mostly of a fleeting character, and such as cannot be preserved in health for any length of time in living rooms. But if, in addition to the best of these, we select handsome-leaved plants of a leathery texture, accustomed to withstand the fierce heats of hot countries, we shall find that the dry and dusty air of a living room is not at all injurious to them, and that it is quite easy to keep them in health for months, and even for years, in the same apartments. They would speak to us of many distant lands ; interest us by their growth under our care ; teach us the wonderful variety and riches of the vegetable kingdom, and prove themselves quiet, unobtrusive friends. Many of them are exotics that in this country are rarely seen out of stoves, while about Paris they are sold in abundance for the decoration of apartments. The demand for use in private houses gives rise to a large and special branch of trade in many of the nurseries, and I know one Versailles cultivator who annually raises and sells 5000 or 6000 plants of the bright- leaved Dracasna terminalis alone, and by far the greater part for room decoration. " As compared with the plant decorations of one of the balls at the Hotel de * Murrav. 214 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Ville, anything seen in the British Isles is poor indeed ; while the way plants are arranged at the Linnean and Royal Societies, and other important places, on special occasions, is almost sufficient to prevent people tolerating them indoors at all, and yet the plants are much better grown in England than they are in France. The difference is caused by exceedingly tasteful and frequently peculiar arrangement, and by employing effective and graceful kinds. What the Parisians do as regards arrangement may perhaps be best gleaned if, before selecting the kinds most de- serving of indoor culture, I describe the decorations for one of the balls at the Hotel de Ville. Entering the Salle St. Jean, the eye was immediately attracted by a luxuriant mass of vegetation at one end ; while on the right and immediately round a mirrored recess was a very tasteful and telling display made as follows : — In Dracaena terminals. front of the large and high minor stretched a bank of moss, common moss under, neath, and the surface nicely formed of freth green Lycopodium denticulatum, the whole being dotted over with the variously-tinted Chinese Primulas— a bank of these plants, in fact, high enough in its back parts to be reflected in the mirror with the taller plants which surrounded it, gradually falling to the floor, and merging into the groups of larger plants on either side of the bank, the whole being enclosed by a low gilt wooden trellis-work margin. The groups at each side contrasted most beautifully with this. Green predominated, but there was a sufficiency of flower, while beauty of form was fully developed. In the centre and back parts of these groups were tall specimens of the common sugar-cane (Saccharum officinarum) which held their long and boldly arching leaves well over the group. These were THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 215 supported by Palms, which threw their graceful lines over the specimen Camellias, which were, in their turn, graced here and there by the presence of a Dracasna or Dwarf Palm ; and so down to the front edge, where Cinerarias, forced bulbs, Primulas, and Ferns, finished off the groups, all very closely placed, so that neither the lower part of the stems, nor a particle of any of the pots, could be seen. Any interstices that happened to remain between the bases of the plants were compactly filled with fresh gieen moss, which was also pressed against the little gilt trellis-work which enclosed the whole, so that from the uppermost point of the Cane leaves to the floor nothing was seen but fresh green foliage and graceful forms, enshrouding the ordinary flowers of our greenhouses, that are infinitely more attractive when thus set in the verdure of which nature is so profuse, and which is always so abundant where her charms of vegetation are at their highest." SUBTROPICAL GARDENING. " Are we to adopt this system in its purity ? Certainly not. All practical men see that to accommodate it to private gardens an expense and a revolution of appli- ances would be necessary, which are in nearly all cases quite impossible, and if possible, hardly desirable. We can, however, introduce to our gardens most of its better features ; we can vary their contents, and render them more interesting by a cheaper and a nobler system. The use of all plants without any particular and striking habit or foliage, or other distinct peculiarity, merely because they are " subtropical," should be tabooed at once, as tending to make much work, and to return — a lot of weeds ; for " weediness " is all that I can write of many Solanums and stove plants of no real merit which have been employed under this name. Selection of the most beautiful and useful from the great mass of plants known to science, is one of the most important of the horticulturist's duties, and in no branch must he exercise it more tho- roughly than in this. Some plants used in it are indispensable — the different kinds of Ricinus, Carinas in great variety, Polymnia, Colocasia, Uhdea, Wigandia, Ferdi- nanda, Palms, Yuccas, Dracaenas, and fine- leaved plants of coria- ceous texture generally. A few specimens of these may be accommodated in many large gardens ; they will embellish the houses in winter, and, transferred to the open garden in summer, will lend interest to it when we are tired of the houses. Some Palms, like Seaforthia, may be used with the best effect for the winter decoration of the conservatory, and be placed out with an equal result and without clanger in summer. The many fine kinds of Dracasnus, Yuccas, Agaves, etc., which have been seen to some perfection at our show-* of late, are eminently adapted for standing out in summer, and are in fact bent fited by it. Among the noblest ornaments of a good conservatory are the Norfolk Island and other^tender 216 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Araucarias — these may be placed out for the summer much to their advantage, because the rains will thoroughly clean and freshen them for winter storing. So with some Cycads and other plants of distinct habit — the very things best fitted to add to the attractions of the flower-garden. Thus we may enjoy all the henefits of what is called subtropical gardening without creating any special arrangements for them in all but the smallest gardens. "But what of those who have no conservatory, no hothouses, no means for pre- serving large tender plants in winter ? They too, may enjoy in effect the beauty which may have charmed them in a subtropical garden. I have no doubt whatever that in many places as good an effect as any yet seen in an English garden from tender plants, may be obtained by planting hardy ones only ! There is the Pampaa Grass — which when well grown is unsurpassed by anything that requires protection. Let us in planting it take the trouble to plant and place it very well — and we can afford to do that, since one good planting is all that it requires of us, while tender things of one-tenth the value may demand daily attention. There are the hardy Yuccas, noble and graceful in outline, and thoroughly hardy, and which, if planted well, are not to be surpassed, if equalled, by anything of like habit we can preserve indoors. There are the Arundos, conspicua and Donax, things that well repay for liberal planting ; and there are fine hardy herbaceous plants like Crambe cordifolia, Rheum Emodi, Ferulas, and various fine umbelliferous plants that will furnish effects equal to those we can produce by using the tenderest. The Acanthuses too, when well grown, are very suitable to this style ; one called latifolius, which is beginning to get known, being of a peculiarly firm, polished, and nohle leafage. Then we have a hardy Palm — very much hardier too than it is supposed to be, because it has preserved its health and greenness in sheltered positions, where its leaves could not be torn to shreds by storms through all our recent hard winters, including that of 1860." DECOKATIVE USES OF THE IVY. " The Ivy may he readily grown and tastefully used in a dwelling-house. I once saw it growing inside the window of a wine-shop in an obscure part of Paris, and on going in found it planted in a rough box against the wall, up which it had crept, and was going ab&ut apparently as carelessly as if in a wood. If you happen to be in the great court at Ver- sailles, and, requiring gui- dance, chance to ask a question at a porter's little lodge seen to the left as you go to the gardens, you will be much interested to see what a deep interest the fat porter and his wife take in Cactuses and such plants, and what a nice collection of them they have gathered together, but more so at the sump- tuous sheet of Ivy which hangs over from high above the mantelpiece. It is planted in a box in a deep recess, and tumbles- out its abundant tresses almost as richly as if de- pending from a Kerry rock- The Ivy is also used to a great extent to make living screens for drawing-rooms and saloons, and often with a very tasteful result. This is usually done by planting it in narrow boxes and training it up wirework trellises, so that with a few of such a living screen may be formed in any desired part of a room in a few minutes. Sometimes it is permanently planted; and in one instance I saw it beautifully used to embellish crystal partitions between large apartments." Variegated Ivy in suspension basket. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 217 TRANSPLANTING APPARATUS FOR SMALL GARDENS.| «' Besides the above-described excellent method for the removal of [large trees, there is a very good method employed for the transplantation of small trees, specimen conifers, evergreens, and like sub- jects. Round each tree a circular trench is opened large enough for a man to move about in it at his ease. The depth should be equal to that of the deepest large roots, and a ball of earth large enough to insure the safe removal of the tree should be left. All the smaller roots found in the trench should be carefully preserved. The ball is shaped into the form of a truncated cone, with its smallest portion below. It is next surrounded with light deal boards, separated from each other by the distance of three-quarters of an inch or so, like the staves of a barrel. They are next secured tempo- rarily, by a suitable rope. A man then descends in- to the hole and fixes the rope by means of the screw apparatus shown here, so as to press the planks firmly against the soil of the ball. The press is then removed and the same thing done higher up, within say four inches of the top, an or- dinary cask hoop being first nailed round the planks before the screw is unfixed. The ball being firmly fixed in its proper position, it is hove over so as to get to its underneath part. The bottom of a cask having its boards fastened together with a circular piece of sheet Small Machine for Lifting Specimen Shrubs and Conifers. Screw used in preparing specimens for removal, as Bhown in the preceding figure, iron rather larger than itself is passed under, the iron being pierced with two or three holes and turned up so that it may be nailed against the planks. In some cases the stem of the tree should be fixed by iron wire to the sides of the improvisedjcask. 218 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. " When it reaches its destination it is gently inclined to one side and the bottom boards removed. The hoops are next unfastened, the boards removed, and the roots carefully arranged in their natural position, some good earth being spread over them. The amount of success capable of being attained by this method may be seen throughout the squares of Paris, hardly a single tree having been killed during the plantation of the myriads now growing so luxuriantly in that city. Some at Vincennes have died, it is true, but after having been transplanted in the rough and ready way usually resorted to." Wood Nuts from a Fairy Hazel Bush cracked for Little People. By Jean d'Ensinge. (Groombridge and Sons.) — Here is a charming book for good boys and girls ; the bad ones should be forbidden to look at it : that would be terrible punishment. Jean d'Ensinge has been taught by the fairies the language of animals ; when he hears a sparrow chirp, he knows it is calling a friend to a feast of caterpillars ; when an owlet whimpers, it is wanting to bury its woolly head beneath its mamma's feathery wing ; if a curlew pipes on the stony iuoor, it is to inform all other birds but curlews that there is nothing for them in such a dreary spot —his actual words are, "Food for me, but none for you !" With such know- ledge should he not reveal to us wondrous things ? Ay, and he does so, telling us delightful stories of rabbits, squirrels, wood-pigeons, starlings, eagles, wagtails, jackdaws, kingfishers, and other wild people who, till now, have kept the secrets of their lives to themselves. With such stories and a series of lovely pictures printed in the most sumptuous manner, the young people should be happy ? It only rests with kind parents, uncles, aunts, and big brothers and sisters, to secure to them a new and large measure of joy by ordering the volume at once, running no risk of forgetting it. New and Rare Beautiful-leaved Plants. By Shirley Hibberd. (Bell and Daldy.) This work is nearly completed, though there is no lack of fine subjects for illustration. Since our last notice, figures of the following beautiful-leaved plants have appeared in it, viz., Aucuba Japonica aureo maculata, a fine variegated leaved aucuba with scarlet berries ; Acalypha tricolor, Cypripedium concolor, Croton interruptum, Panicum plicatum, and Begonia falcifolia. Received. — The Gardener 's Magazine, The Student, The Treasury of Literature and Ladies1 Treasury, Our Own Fireside, The Botanical Magazine (Verschaffelt's), Illustration Horticole, The Go spel Magazine, Old Jonathan, The American Hor- ticulturist, The Garderner's Record, The Fern Garden : Hoiv to make, keep, and enjoy it, or Fern Growing made easy. The Fuchsia in Valentia — Friends who have lately visited me here (Yalentia, south of Ireland) encouraged my conceit about the size of my fuchsias. I have just measured one plant of Riccartoni which was planted in the year 1854, on a sloping grass bank in my flower garden. It measures just 90 feet in circum- ference, taken round the extremities of the branches, it would certainly have measured 8 or 10 feet more if it had not been cut away, to prevent it from encroaching on a gravel walk. The garden slopes to the sea with an easterly aspect. The plant in question stands perhaps 10 or 12 yards from the edge of the sea bank. Trees. — Everyone feels that trees are among the grandest and most ornamen- tal objects of natural scenery. What would landscapes be without them ? Where would be the charm of hills, plains, valleys, rocks, rivers, cascades, lakes, or islands, without the hanging wood, the widely extended forest, the open grove, the scattered groups, the varied clothing, the shade and intricacy, the contrast, and the variety of form and colour conferred by trees and shrubs ? A tree is a grand object in itself; its bold perpendicular elevation and its commanding attitude render it sublime, and this expression is greatly heightened by our knowledge of its age, stability, and duration. The characteristic beauties of the general forms of trees are as various as their species, and equally so are the beauty and variety of the ramifications of their branches, spray, buds, leaves, flowers, and fruit. The changes in the colour of the foliage of the trees at different seasons of the year alone form a source of ever-varying beauty and of perpetual enjoyment to the lovers of nature. — Loudon. 219 THE GARDEN GUIDE. Bar.— 29-97. Theb.— 73, 53, 61J;. } 3uls, ! Wind.— N.W. & S.W. Rain.— 27 in. Gbeenhousb Flowers. — Aphelexia humi/is rosea ; Azalea Sir Charles JVapier ; Erica Aitoniana, E. Candolleana, E. obbata ; Kaloyanthes Frederick Desbois, K. Madame C. Winans ; Hydrangeas, Pimelia spectabilis ; Pleroma elegans ; Statice prqfusa ; Zonal Pelargoniums in var. Garden Flowers. — Coronilla varia; Larkspur, Delphinium alopecuriaides, D. H. Stenger, D. Madame Rougier ; Gen- tian, Gentiana asclepiadea ; Lupinus, Lit- pinus polyphyllus ; Iris sambucina, I. Jlavescens ; Veronica corymbosa, V. ame- thystina; Viola cornuta, V. lutea. The Weatheb.— The summer commenced on the 19th, and, np to the moment of publishing, lias had scarcely a break. In the month we have now entered upon, heat may be expected, but not such drought as last year. This will be a late season. Flower Garden. — This month is a capital time for propagating many herba- ceous plants. Young side-shoots of Antirrhinums, ■ Pentstemons, and l'hloxes will root freely under a hand-glass, with the needful attention of watering and shading. Polyanthus that are wished to be increased may he taken up and divided early in the month. Shorten the tap roots, and replant at a distance of about a foot apart each way. These plants do best in loam, leaf-mould, and cow-dung. A shady position is the most suitable, and the plants should have two or three good waterings after they are planted. Seed must be sown as soon as possible. The Rose-beds must be looked over frequently, and all suckers removed. The old flowering shoots should also be cut back, and the trees have a few good doses of liquid manure to aid in the production of a good autumn bloom. Budding must be proceeded with ; if the stocks do not run freely, a thorough watering will generally start them. The evening is the best time for budding. Towards the end of the month the wood will be in proper order for making cuttings. Strong half-ripened shoots cut into pieces of three joints each. The bottom leaf should be removed, and the cutting inserted firmly in a bed of light, sandy stuff, over a gentle hot-bed, where it will root freely. Cuttings will also root well in a frame placed upon an elevated bed of soil, without bottom-heat, but not so quickly as with that assistance. The frame must be kept close, and shaded until the cuttings are nicely callused. Evergreens may now be pruned, and their growth regulated. The annuals that are past their best should be cleared away, to prevent the garden having an untidy appearance. Where it is intended to save seed from any of the herbaceous plants, it is a good plan to cut the old flower-spikes directly the lower seed-pods begin to ripen, and stick th<-m in pots filled with wet sand, and placed over a large sheet of paper in- doors, to catch the seed. When left on the plants until the whole of the seed is ripe, three-parts of it will be scattered to the winds and lost. Where it is intended to increase the stock of Pinks, Picotees, and Carnations, propagation must be com- menced in the early part of the month, either by pipings or layers. "~ Bulbous Flowers. — African Lily, Agapanthus vmbellatns pallida; Broditz-a grand < flora; Commelinu tuberosa ; Ha- branthvs Andersoni ; Hwrnanlhus cocci- veus; lamene undulatum ; Liliiim bulbi- ferum, L. colchiciim, L. excehitm, L. Thunbergiamim ; Ornilhcgalum thyrsoides. Stove Flowkrs.— Allamanda Schotti, A. Hendersoni ; Bougainvillea glabra; Clerodendron K&mpferi ; Dipladenia crassinoda, £>. splendens; Gloriosa »u- perba ; Ipomea Learii; Ixora GriJ/ithi; Pasnijiora princeps ; Stephanotis Jlori- bunda ; JErides ajfine ; Calanthe masuca ;* Cattleya superba;* Stanhopea crispa, Devoniensis* " Blessed of the Lord be his land, for the precious things of heaven, for the dew, and for the deep that coucheth beneath, and for the piecious fruits brought forth by the sun."— Dect. sxxiii. 13, 11. 220 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Greenhouse. — Hard-wooded plants that flowered late, and were kept indoors to finish the growth, should go out of doors now. Particular care must be paid to plants standing out of doors. If allowed to suffer from drought at this season, next year's bloom will be impaired. Quite two-thirds of the cases of the Camellias dropping their buds in the early part of the winter arises from the plants getting dust-dry at the roots " now and then," between this time and September, and the other third arises from the pots being ineffectually drained, and the soil getting sour in consequence. Frequently, specimen-plants suffer through the pots being placed on the ground without any protection underneath from worms. This should be looked to, and the pots set on three small pots, or a good thickness of coal-ashes placed underneath. Roses in pots should be plunged, to prevent the soil drying up quickly, and rendering a lot of watering necessary. All soft-wooded stuff growing freely, such as Petunias, Fuchsias, Zonale Pelargoniums, Browallias, etc., should be encouraged with liquid manure until they come into flower. Pelargoniums that have ripened their young wood nicely must be cut back to two or three eyes at once, and kept rather dry until the buds push. Stove. — The routine work of watering, air-giving, etc., must be well looked after. More air must be admitted, now that the greater part of the plants have made the season's growth, to insure its thorough maturation. Achimenes and Gloxinias will continue in flower much longer if helped with manure-water. All subjects for winter decoration must have every encouragement to get them strong by autumn. Kitchen Garden. — Anything that is in need of water should have sufficient to soak the ground for a considerable depth. Surface watering does more harm than good ; it attracts the roots to the surface, where they are more exposed to atmos- pheric influences than before. Hundreds of crops were destroyed last year through improper waterings. Unless labour is abundant, and the time can be spared to follow it up, leave watering alone. Tomatoes ought to be stopped just above the fruit, and be well pinched in, if plenty of fine fruit is expected. Continue to plant out all the winter stuff as fast as possible ; the evening is the best time. Keep the Celery well watered, and plant out the main crop. Let every pod be removed from both Runners and Dwarf Beans directly they are large enough for gathering. Sow the main crop of Turnips, and successional supplies of Lettuce, Radish, Spinach, Small Salad, a few rows of early Peas, and a bed of Stadtholder Cauli- flowers. The principal crop of Cauliflowers and French Beans in bearing will receive considerable help from a thick coat of short litter or other mulching material about the roots. Fruit Garden. — Thin, stop, and train the young growth of wall and other fruit-trees. Thin out the fruit before it gets too large, and robs that intended to remain. Proceed with layering Strawberry-runners, both for forcing and making new beds. Plants layered in pots, and planted out when well looted in thoroughly trenched ground, will bear weil next summer. Pits and Frames. — Sow Herbaceous Calceolarias and Cyclamens for principal batch, and Cinerarias and Primulas for late bloom. Shift on, as it becomes neces- sary, earlier batches, and not let them get pot-bound at this stage. Forcing. — Keep Muscats going with a little fire-heat in unfavourable weather. In the late houses, where the grapes are swelling, the laterals must be kept stopped ; but where they are stoning, a considerable extension of laterals can be allowed. The earlier houses, from which the crop has been gathered, must be thrown open as wide as possible, and the laterals allowed to grow freely for a short time, to help to swell up the buds. The foliage of Peaches and Nectarines must be washed with the syringe frequently after the crop Is gathered, and all the air possible admitted. Cucumbers and Melons must be kept well thinned out ; the former should be stopped regularly at one joint beyond the fruit. The fruit-bearing laterals of the melons must be allowed to grow, and the others nipped off as fast as they make their appearance. Keep both well supplied with water, and give air early in the morning, to give the foliage a chance of getting dry before the sun acts powerfully upon it. 221 NEW PLANTS. LECTOPOMA n^egelioides scintillans (Flore des Serres, t. 1753-4). — Gesneraceoe. A beautiful stove perennial, with erect branched red stems, slightly toothed leaves, and large bright purplish-rose flowers, with the tube yellow on the lower side, and dotted with scarlet. Passiflora Munroi, Munro's Passion Floiver (Gard. Chron., 186S, p. 1288). — Passifloracese. A remarkably fine hybrid, raised at Messrs. Lawson's, with large flowers of a beautiful light bluish violet colour. A valuable greenhouse climber. Passiflora Laavsoniana, Lawson's Passion Flower (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 1288). — Passifloracese. Another good passion-flower, raised at Messrs. Lawson's, with reddish flowers. Acridocarpus natalities (Bot. Mag., t. 5738).— Malpighiacese. A handsome warm greenhouse climber, with oblong coriaceous leaves, and racemes of pale yellow flowers. A native of Natal, introduced by W. W. Saunders, Esq. Amfelopsis dissecta {Rev. Sort., 1868, 10, fig. 1). — Vitaeese. A very ele- gant free-growing hardy climbing shrub, furnished with long reddish branches, which bear leaves closely resembling the fronds of Litobrochia pedata. Collinsia corymbosa, Corymb-flowered Collinsia (Gartenflora, t. 568). — Scrophulariaceoe. This pretty dwarf free-blooming annual is of a branched habit, with ovate-stalked leaves and numerous white and blue flowers. Native of Mexico. Crocus Scharojani, Scharojan's Crocus (Gartenflora, t. 578, fig. 2). — Iri- dacese. A pretty, hardy, autumn-flower bulb, related to C. Suwarowianus, and producing its blossoms, which are of a deep saffron colour, in the early autumn months. Keteleeria Fortunei (Rev. Sort., 1868, t. 132).— Conifers. This is the plant generally known in gardens as Abies jezoensis, which M. Carriere separates as a new genus, relying chiefly on the characters of its erect cones, and their per- sistent, not caducous scales. Mormodes Skinneri (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 50). — Orcbidacese. A charming species from Central America, introduced through Mr. G. U. Skinner by Messrs. Veitch. Sepals and petals pale brown, barred with blotches of dark red ; lip yellow, spotted with red. Dendrobium lasioglossum (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 277). — Orchidacese. This is a very elegant-growing and free-flowering species, bearing its pure white flowers freely up the slender bulbs, which vary from two to three feet in height. The lip is veined with rose, and has a tuft of yellow hairs, which gives the flowers a beautiful appearance. Miltonia "Warcewiczii (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 277). — Orchidaceae. A curious orchidaceous plant, originally discovered in 1830 by Poppig, near Cuchero, and lately flowered by M. Linden. Camptoptjs madnii, West- African Camptopus (Bot. Mag., t. 5755). — A sin- gular Rubiaceous plant, native of the West Coast of Tropical Africa. It is a curiosity of the stove. Acer platanoides rubrum, Red Plane-leaved Maple (Gartenflora, t. 545; La Belg. Sort., 1868, 39, t. 4). — Aceracea?. A beautiful variety of the Norway Maple, with leaves of a beautiful bright red and yellowish veins, changing to a deep blood red with red veins as they become older. Passiflora sanguinolentum, Blood-coloured Passion Flower (Gard. Chron., 1868, p. 1162). — Passifloracese. A fine species, introduced by M. Linden, with elegant foliage and handsome violet-red flowers. A desirable acquisition to our list of climbers. Azalea mollis glabrior (Gartenflora, t. 556).— Ericaceae. A handsome hardy deciduous shrub, related to A. pontica. It has ohlong-obovate leaves, and large, bell-shaped, bright orange- coloured scentless flowers, which grow in terminal clusters. Centatjrea Fenzlii, FenzVs Centaury (Rev. Sort., 1868, 366, fig. 39). — Composite. A highly ornamental biennial plant, growing about a yard in height, 222 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. and furnished with large, handsome, glaucous-green leaves, and canary-yellow flowers of a showy character. Cymbidium pendulum atropurpureum {Hot. Mag., t. 5710). — Orchidaceae. A showy stove epiphyte, with tufted stems and tall ensiform equitant leaves. The large dark purple flowers, which are produced in drooping racemes, have a broadish recurved white lip, tinged with rose-colour, and bear a yellow disk. Greyia Sutherlandi, Sutherland's Greyia {Flore des Serres, t. 1739). — Saxifragacese (Harv.) ; Sapindacece (Benth. and Hook). A handsome greenhouse shrub, with stoutish stems and branches, bearing alternate sub-cordate leaves, and showy scarlet flowers, crowded in long thick terminal racemes. Nierembeegia frutescens {V Eort. Franc, 1868-9, t. It. — Solanaceoe. A free, bushy-growing perennial, bearing a profusion of white saucer-shaped flowers, an inch broad, and slightly stained with lilac. Native of the Chilian Andes. Plectopoma n^egelioides aukeo-roseum {Flore des Serres, t. 1747-8). — Gesneraceoe. A charming hothouse perennial, having erect branching red stems, clothed with ovate leaves, and bearing large Gloxinia-like flowers of a rosy-lilac colour, yellow in the throat, and dotted with minute bright carmine spots. Plectopoma n^glioides Candida {Flore des Serres, t. 1749-50). — Gesneracere. A remarkable stove perennial, with erect branching green stems, furnished with ovate leaves, and bearing a profusion of large attractive pure -white flowers. Plectopoma njsglioides bicolor {Flore des Serres, t. 1751-2). — Gesneraceae. A beautiful stove perennial, with erect branched green steins, streaked with red, ovate leaves and large flowers ; upper part of the tube bright clear red, the lower part yellow, and the lower lip bordered with red. Plectopoma n.»:gliotdes corallinum {Flore des Serres, t. 1745-6). — Gesne- raceae. A distinct stove perennial, with erect red fleshy stems, ovate acuminate velvety green leaves, and large flowers of a deep rosy red, yellowish and spotted in the throat. TO CORRESPONDENTS. Taking Honey without Destroying the Bees. — Apiarian. — There are many modes of accomplishing this, but, without doubt, the simplest and safest is that described by Mr. Hibberd in the Garden Oracle, which has been followed by him for many years at Stoke Newington. The operation is to be performed at midday. The super is first carefully loosened by prising up with a chisel, and passing a string through to cut any comb attached to the crown board. It is then lifted and carried away, and placed close down on a board, so that not a bee can escape from it. In the course of five minutes it is lifted quickly, and carried to another place and left open for a few minutes while a gentle tapping is made upon it. In this way the bees are dislodged wholesale without one being hurt. In the course of a quarter of an hour the box may be carried to half-a-dozen different places, and at every one a mass of bees will be dislodged. The end of the process is to turn the box up, and sit down on the grass, and whisk out with a feather what few bees remain amongst the combs. When all are out, put the box somewhere safe against intruders, for the bees will search for it and empty it, if they can obtain access to it. Erecting a Cold Conservatory'. — J. C. H. — It is a capital idea to cover the space with glass. "We should form a rockery, and plant it with hardy ferns. Train over the roof a goodly collection of free-flowering Clematis, such as Prince of Wales, Rubella, Jaclcmanni, Rubro-violacea, and Standishi. You might grow a few Rhododendrons in pots for spring, and a collection of Japanese and other lilies for summer and autumn decoration to mix with the ferns. The following hardy herbaceous plants form fine specimens in pots, and have a good effect grown that ■way : — Spirea japonica, Aspidistra lurida variegata, Dielytra spectabilis, Anemone vitifolia Honorine Jobert, Campanula rotundifolia, Funkia lancasfolia variegata, and Convallaria majalis striata, Richardia ^Ethiopica, Eucomis undulata, Herbaceous Phloxes, and Herbaceous Lobelias. With the above, and a few annuals, such as Balsams, Phlox Drummondi, Asters, Larkspurs, Nemophila, and a few others, you may keep your house gay through the summer. A few specimen Cannas would THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 223 help to give the house a tropical character. The roots can be stored in a cellar through the winter. Leave them in the pots during that period, and shake out and repot in fresh stuff in the spring. They require no heat to start them. "Winter-Flowering Greenhouse Plants.— D. T. — Probably the following selection will answer your purpose : — Acacia armata, A. Drunimondi, A. grandis ; of Camellias, Alba plena, Beali, Countess of Ellesmere, Variegata, Rubens, Lady Hume's Blush are good varieties ; Chorozema cordata splendens, Cinerarias, Coro- nilla glauca, Correa Brilliant, C. Harrisi, Cyclamen persicum, in variety ; Cytisus Atleeana, C. Everestiana, C. racemosus, Daphne indica alba, and rubra ; Epacris autumnalis, E. hyacinthiflora, and its two splendid varieties candidissima and fulgens, E. Exquisite, E. Viscountess Hill. From the heaths select Erica caffra, E. colorans, E. gracilis, E. hyemalis, E. Wilmoreaua, Habrothamnus fasciculatus, Jas- minum grandiflorum, and Tetratheca hirsuta. Eighteen Good Stove Climbers. — Amicus. — Adelaster albivensis, Bignonia venusta, Cissus discolor, Clerodendron Balfouri, C. Thompsonite, Dioscorea discolor, Dipladenia amabilis, D. crassinoda, Echites nutans, Hoya carnosa variegata, Ipomasa Learii, Passifiora Decaisneana, P. kermesina, P. priuceps (syn. racemosa), Rhyn- cospermum jasminoides, Stephanotis floribunda, Thunbergia ohrysops, T. Harrisi, The Cissus, Clerodendron, Dipladenia, Rhyncospermum, and Stephanotis, should be grown in well-drained pots, two parts good turfy peat, and one part silky loam, will form a good compost, mixed with about a sixth part of sharp silver-sand. The others should be planted out in a border, or have a large tub or box to grow in. The soil should consist of turfy loam, two parts ; peat, one part ; and leaf-mould, one part. Hoya Bella Culture. — W. G., Szlop. — This is by no means an expensive subject. You can get a thrifty little plant anywhere for half-a-crown. If you procure a plant at once, shift it into a pot one size larger, and place in an average temperature of 70°. Previous to potting, give the foliage a thorough sponging with warm water and a little soft soap, if in any way infested with scale or mealy bug, and then syringe with clear water. A thoroughly-drained pot and a light porous soil are indispensable requisites to the successful culture of this beautiful little Hoya. The compost should consist of two parts fibry peat, one part leaf-mould, and a good sprinkling of sand, small crocks, and nodules of charcoal. Stop the leading shoots to promote a bushy growth, and towards the end of August lessen the water supply, and place near the glass to thoroughly ripen the wood. This must be done in a careful and judicious manner, so that no sudden check is experienced. In the winter a temperature of 55° will be sufficiently high, and just enough water must be given to keep the foliage fresh. Shift early in February, and place in a growing temperature, as already advised. After a flowering size is attained, keep the roots rather pot-bound, as the plants then flower with greater freedom. Tree Carnations. — A. B. S. — The following eighteen are first-rate. The best six are marked with an asterisk: — Archimede, yellow fringed, tipped red; Ariadne, orange-yellow ground, crimson flake, fine form ; Beauty, pure white, pink stripe ; Charles Baltet, red, striped crimson ; Delicata, pure white, margined pink ; Evening Star, scarlet, and crimson flake, Garibaldi*, purple, very sweet ; Gloire de Permillieux, scarlet, dwarf ; Hope, scarlet, and crimson flake ; Jean Bart*, salmon-red, the best of all ; La Geante, blood-red ; Magna coccmea*, crimson clove ; Oscar, canary-yellow, striped rose ; Perfection*, white, with bizarre flakes of purple and crimson, equal to a show Carnation; Queen of "Whites*, the best white, and a true clove ; Souvenir de la Malmaison*, rosy flesh, very fragrant ; Vandael, yellow self ; Victor Emmanuel, pure yellow, rosy crimson flakes. See our article on their cultivation in the Floral World of April, 186o, and October, 1868. Beet tor Ornament. — Sybil. — The one called " Barr's Selected" may be ob- tained from Barr and Sugden ; the one called " Dell's" is to be obtained of several seedsmen ; we have just obtained some from Messrs. Veitch and Son. When used as bedding plants these beets should be sown rather thick ; they are highly effective and worthy of attention in both large and small gardens. Salvia patens. — Rose. — It is a waste of labour for you to keep a stock of this plant through the winter. In future raise a stock every year by sowing seed in heat in January or February, and when the season is past throw the plants away. 224 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Chives. — Countryman. — People who allow any onion flavour to enter into a salad usually prefer chives, and at all events no herb garden can be considered com- plete without this useful vegetable. It will grow in any soil, but a rich yellow bed is best for it. Plant now in rows a foot apart every way, using about a dozen bulbs in each patch. Berks.— Ivy Barr and Sugden, 12, King Street, Covent Garden, London, W. C. M. Gallwey. — We cannot prepare a plan for your garden or for any particular garden. We have, however, published many plans in former issues, some one of which may suit you. Propagating Gold and Silver Zonal Pelargoniums. — Inquirer. — Take off at once the young shoots that are moderately firm, and insert them in some light sandy stuff on a south border. If the soil is naturally heavy, add a dressing of soil from the potting bench. Water if the weather is very dry ; if not, leave them alone until they are rooted, and then take up and pot. Heating a Greenhouse — Bulbs for the Antipodes. — Will you oblige me by advice upon the following points : — 1. What is the cheapest and most effective stove for a small house, bearing in mind that the most economical fuel available here is coke at twenty shillings a ton ? As I am my own gardener, it is essential that the stove shall not want trimming during the night. Please also oblige me with price, and maker from whom to order it. 2. Can you advise me as to the best mode of transmitting small bulbs through the post, remembering that our mails come in bags (not boxes), and that parcels are liable to a good deal of rough treat- ment. I have imported from several of the leading nurserymen of England, but have only been successful once. In that case Messrs. Carter, of High Holborn, sent me some Achimenes (certainly among the most manageable of bulbs), each variety in sand in a separate paper, and the several packages so prepared put into a bag of coarse brown paper, among seeds from a tin case. Transmission in boxes as freight, per mail steamer, is too expensive, as I have further freight and agency charges at the Australian end. On the other hand, a long voyage by sailing vessel has its obvious disadvantages. — An Amateur at the Antipodes, Brisbane, Queens- land, Feb. 25, 1869. [To query 1, we might give a voluminous reply, but we prefer to restrict ourselves to a choice of three kinds of heating apparatus. The test system always is hot water, and the most perfect furnace we know of for a small house is the "upright conical boiler" made by Lynch White, of Upper Ground Street, Blackfriars, London, S. The furnace would require to be properly set in bricks, and as a figure of the mode of setting is sent with the appa- ratus, a skilled bricklayer in any part of the world could put it up. There is no necessity for cementing the joints of the pipes, as india-rubber rings put on inside the sockets answer perfectly. Our next recommendation is Riddell's Slow Com- bustion Boiler. This requires no setting. The pipes used with it are small, and elastic joints are supplied with them. The cost will be about the same as the last. The maker is J. H. Riddell, 155, Cheapside, London, E.C. In case you prefer a stove inside the house, without pipes, then there is nothing to equal Musgrave's Slow Combustion Stove, made by Musgrave Brothers, High Street, Belfast. The size charged £6 is best for general purposes. To query No. 2 we must refer you to a reply to An Antipodean in the June number. As a rule, bulbs cannot he sent safely in bags of any kind.] Green Ginger. — The best way to grow a small supply is in pots. Plant the sets in February, in a mixture of fibry peat and fresh silky hazel loam, using 6-inch pots for each division of the root. Plunge the pots in a bark-bed, or in a dung-bed, newly made up as if for cucumbers, but surfaced with tan. Give no water for a few days, then but little, and gradually increase the supply as the plants progress. Give air in hot weather, and keep well supplied with water till September, when you will have a fine stock of roots fur the preparation of a delicious sweetmeat. The ginger is a stove herbaceous plant, with red flowers. It is propagated by root division, winters at 45°, and requires a summer temperature of 65° to 85', and may be grown by all who can manage melons. PL FROM ft SARMENTOSA. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. AUOUST, 1869. PLEBOMAS. "WITH F1GUBE OF PLEROMA SARMENTOSA. | HE beautiful plant represented in the accompanying plate has peculiar claims on the attention of amateurs, for it is the only one of its family that can be well grown in a greenhouse, all the otner known species being stove plants that will not without harm endure such low degrees of temperature as P. sarmentosa may be safely kept in. Pleromas are favourites with exhibitors of stove plants, for they are at once easy to manage, and remarkably effective when well done ; their numerous purple or deep blue flowers being abundantly pro- duced, and affording most acceptable contrasts to those of the Alla- mandas, Dipladenias, and Ixoras that are usually grown in the same house with them. As there is no occasion for a lengthy notice of the plant figured, a brief treatise on the cultivation of Pleroma may be opportune and useful to accompany the plate. These plants are all natives of the central parts of the South American continent, the majority having been introduced from Brazil. They are all fast growing and free-flowering plants when well-managed, rarely giving trouble in any stage of their growth, if rightly managed; but in common with many other valuable plants, it is easy to kill them by mismanagement. The stove species, of which JP. eleqans, an old favourite, may be regarded as the type, require a temperature of 45D to 55° all the winter, and 60° to 803 all the summer. We pronounce them stove plants in a general way because of the mischief that often results from the use of the word " green- house" in a work of this kind, and in order to guard our readers against supposing that a house in which azaleas and heaths are quite at home, would do for any of them. The fact is they are truly cool stove plants, a roasting heat is as harmful to the plant as a tem- perature too low, so while we will continue to use the word " stove" to prevent amateurs who have only an ordinary greenhousp devoted VOL. IV. NO. VIII. 15 22 G THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. to a mixed collection from disappointment, we will advise the culti- vation of Pleromas in what is known as an intermediate house. The soil best adapted for these plants is one composed of equal parts of good peat, silky loam, and leaf-mould, and a half part each small potsherds and sharp sand. In the earlier stages of growth a larger proportion of sand should be used. During winter water must be given with great care, the roots being kept rather dry; in summer, when the plants are growing freely, water must be supplied in plenty. Two points in the cultivation require special attention. The first is to train out the growth with care, so as to form the plant into a handsome specimen ; the other is to secure perfect ripening of the wood in the autumn by full exposure to solar light and free ventilation, for the flowers are borne on the growth of the previous season, and if that growth is not well ripened, it will be flowerless. In many well furnished plant-houses where Pleromas would be valued, space cannot be afforded for the growth of great specimens, nor are they necessary. Neat, compact bushes, in eight-inch pots, may be grown and brought into flower beautifully within two years from the time of striking the cuttings, and a number of such plants of various kinds are far to be preferred to two or three gigantic specimens. The best time to strike cuttings of any of the species is from May to August. The small side-shoots answer best for the purpose, but good plants may be raised from points of the main branches, but they are not to be preferred. The usual mode of striking them in sandy soil with the help of a mild bottom-heat, and shade from sunshine, is to be recommended, but in the height of summer they may be rooted by one accustomed to strike cuttings, without the aid of bottom-hear. The process, however, is longer about, and less safe than when heat is employed. As soon as the cuttings are rooted they must be potted off; the pots known as 60's (three inches wide) being the proper size for them. After potting, place them in a temperature of 60°, and keep rather close until they have made .some progress, when they must have more and more air to prepare them for the winter. In the February following shift them into 48's (five-inch), and give them a little extra warmth to start them, after which endeavour to treat them as intermediate rather than stove plants, shifting them on as they require it, and never exposing them to such low degrees of temperature as ordinary greenhouse plants will bear with impunity. P. elegans is a splendid species, examples of which may have been seen at every grand flower-show for twenty years past. It is very accommodating, but worth the best attention that can be given it. The flowers are of a rich cobalt blue shading to purplish blue. P. tnacrantha (Lasiandra macrantha) lately introduced by Mr. Ball, is certainly the grandest of the family ; the flowers, when well grown, averaging about a foot in circumference, and being very freely produced. They are of a fine rich purplish blue colour, shading into intense cobalt. This is more of a stove plant than any of its race, but quite easy to manage, and flowering freely when only five or six THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 227 inches high. Wherever a stove plant of any sort can be grown, there should be found this splendid species. P. Benlhamiana is a fine free-growing species with purple flowers, worth a place in a collection, but less desirable than others we recommend. P. sarmentosa, the plant here figured, may be grown to perfection in a warm greenhouse. It was discovered by Humboldt and Bonpland in the cool valleys of Peru, near Cuenca, and has since been found by Dr. Jameson on the same spot, at an altitude of 8000 feet, sufficient proof of its comparative hardiness. It is a rather slender, half-climbing shrub, producing abundance of flowers, two to two and a-half inches in diameter, the colour deep violet, shading into deep blue, and varying slightly, perhaps, according to the degree of light they are produced in, and the state of the plant as to health and vigour. IS. H. ORNAMENTAL LEAVED PLANTS EOE THE GREENHOUSE. BY GEOBGE EAIBBAIR]ST, Head Gardener, Sion House, Isleworth. PLANTS with ornamental leafage that thrive well in a greenhouse temperature are not so plentiful as those which require the warmth of a stove. Nevertheless, they exist in larger numbers than is commonly supposed to be the case ; and for the help of those who have only a greenhouse or conservatory, I intend pointing out a few that are well suited for growing in these structures. Many of the subjects that I shall enumerate grow with a greater vigour in the warmth of a stove or vinery, particularly the palms ; therefore, when the latter come to hand in a young state, or are raised from seed, it will be well to give them a little warmth for a year or two to enable them to develope the beauty of their leafage earlier than they do when growu in the greenhouse from the first. If there is no heat to put them in, never mind, as the growth will be equally good, though comparatively slow. To avoid repetition, here I may be allowed to remark, that nearly the whole of the subjects that I shall name will thrive well in a mixture of sound turfy ioam.'fibry peat, and silver sand. When preparing it for potting, break the loam and peat up rather roughly, according to the size of the plants it is intended for. Mix in the proportion of two parts loam to one of peat, and then add about a sixth part of sharp silver sand. All will require potting moderately firm, and the assistance of a thorough drainage. The foliage must be kept clean either by sponging, or washing it with the syringe, according to its nature. In the winter, where practicable, the sponge should be used in preference to the syringe, as very few plants, especially those with variegated foliage, will stand the pro- 22S THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. cess of having water dashed over them, at that season, without injury. Nearly all the Abutilons have handsome foliage, but only one, A . Thompsoni, is entitled to a place in this paper. This is a very pretty plant, with medium-sized leaves, beautifully mottled, and blotched with rich golden yellow. Light, air, and a cool temperature are all essential to the development of the rich colouring. It is easily propagated by cuttings. Amongst the Acacias we have several species with very elegant plumy leafage, the best of which are A. dealbata, A. lophantha (the best of all), and A. vestita. These should be raised from seed, and a single stem allowed to run up to a height of three or four feet, and then be pinched to form a head. With a little care in regu- lating the growth, these have a very elegant appearance. A. lophantha makes a grand window plant, and is eminently adapted for the deco- ration of front halls or staircases. The Agaves are more remarkable for the massiveness of their foliage than for elegance of growth. They are, however, very beau- tiful, and form an admirable contrast with the light, airy leafage of other subjects. There are many fine species in addition to those I shall name, but they are too expensive at present to be recom- mended. A. Americana, and its beautiful variety, aurea variegata, and A. schidigera are all good. A few pieces of broken bricks and crocks, or pieces of sandstone, should be mixed with the compost used for these plants. They require no water during the winter months. The Aealias furnish us with a fine group of ornamental sub- jects that do well in a greenhouse. All that I shall name are first- rate. Suppose we take A. CooJci, A. gracilis, A. integrifolia, A. palmata, A. papyrifera, A. Sieboldii, and A. Sieboldii variegata. A. palmata is, perhaps, the most beautiful species in the genus. In a well-grown specimen the bright green shining fan-shaped leaves measure nearly two feet across, and are borne on stout leaf-stalks over twTo feet in length. It has only to be allowed to grow with a single stem, and not crowded up with other things, and a handsome symmetrical proportioned specimen can easily be had. The letter A also gives us the Aeaucaria. A. Coohi and A. excelsa, form fine ornaments for large houses, either planted out or grown in pots. Arundinaria falcata requires plenty of moisture to grow it well, and Aspidistra lurida variegata, needs a rather poor sandy soil to bring out its variegation. The elegant little Bambusa Fortunei variegata must not be passed over, for it will well repay the little trouble incurred in its culture. The genera Coedtline aud Dracena are nearly allied, and can therefore be named in conuection with each other. There is only one species belonging to the former available, and that is C. indivisa, but in the latter we have D. australis, J), draco (the Dragon's Blood tree), D. indivisa, D. lineata, and D. Veitchi, all elegant upright-growing species, with gracefully-arranged foliage. The utmost care should be exercised to preserve the lower leaves as long as possible, but when the plants get bare and unsightly, they can be THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 229 cut back, and the stem severed into six-inch lengths. These will strike freely in a little warmth, but as the above-mentioned species will grow to a height of twenty feet, and increase in effectiveness in proportion to their size, every endeavour should be made to preserve the foliage as long as possible. They must not be over-potted or over-watered, or they will soon come to grief. Several of the coloured leaved species grow well, and have a fine effect in the green- house through the summer, but as they require a little extra warmth through the winter, I am bound to leave them out. Echeveria atrojmrpurea, JE. metallica, and Farfugium grande, are pretty dwarf-growing subjects, well adaptedforgreenhouse decoration. The latter requires starving to bring out the variegation properly. Distinct from these we have the feathery-leaved Grevillea, flexu- osa and G. robusta, both of which succeed well under ordinary treatment, if kept free from white scale — a pest that is rather partial to them. Upon its first appearance, syringe them overhead with a solution of " Fowler's Insecticide." The Lomatia has such elegant plumy leafage that two or three species must form a part of my selection. I consider L. elegan- tissima and L. ferruginea to be the two best. The variegated Hydrangea is a magnificent subject when grown well. Cuttings of half- ripe wood in the summer, and of old wood early in the spring, will strike readily with the assistance of a little warmth. The old wood should be cut back to within two or three joints of the bases every spring, and the strong shoots will then spring up, bearing large finely-marked leaves. The flowers are inferior to those of the green-leaved form, and spoil the appearance of the plant, but when the shoots are cut back as suggested, no flowers will be produced, or, if they are, it will be towards the end of the season, and at the points of the strong growing shoots ; there- fore, they will not interfere with the production of handsome foliage. The Palms are beginning to receive the attention they so richly deserve, now that it is known that several will grow freely in an ordinary greenhouse temperature, and without any special treat- ment. The compost in which they are grown should be composed of good turfy loam, mixed with a small proportion of leaf-mould and sand through the earlier stages. The pots must be properly drained, and the plants have sufficient water at all times, and not be dried off in the winter. When repotting them, loosen the roots round the outside of the ball of soil, just to enable them to push freely into the fresh stuff; but no disrooting must be practised, or the roots injured in any way. The soil should be used in a lumpy state and rammed in firm. All can be raised from seed, when it can be had, but the difficulty is to obtain it. The cocoa-nut and date palms can be raised from the cocoa-nuts and the stones of the dates sold at the shops. Both should be steeped in warm water twelve hours pre- vious to sowing, and the seed-pots should be placed in the warmth of a cucumber-bed to get them up. I shall only name a few that I know to grow freely in a green- house temperature, and have also an effective appearance. Areca 230 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. sapida is a fine species, with elegant pinnate foliage. The Chamasrops are, perhaps, the most useful for greenhouses below the middle size, as they have elegant fan-shaped foliage, combined with a compact habit of growth. 0. Fortunei is the best of the genus ; G. excelsa, C. Ghiesbregldii, C. humilis, and C. palmetto are, nevertheless, remarkably good, and perfectly distinct from each other. Corypha australis is also a very pretty little fan-palm, useful iu a young state for table decoration. Latania horbonica is now so well known as to need no description. It is one of the most elegant fan-palms we have, and should be in every collection. The date-palm, Phoenix dactylifera is useful for variety, but inferior in beauty to many others. jP. reclinata is also good. Bhapis fiahelliformis is an ele- gant, slender-growing palm, worth attention ; but, for beauty aud usefulness, nothing can excel Seaforthia elegans. Its light feathery fronds have a charming appearance, intermixed with the glowing colours of the flowering plants. It is moderately cheap, and hand- some in all stages, ranging from one to sixty feet. S. robusta (syn. Areca Baueri) is equally good, but more costly than the preceding. There are two other beautiful species that must not be passed over, for their elegant fan-shaped foliage entitle them to a place in the most select collection of plants, and they are Thrinax parvifiora and T. tunicata. Passing on to other subjects, we come to the beautiful New Zealand Flax, Phormium tenax, and P. tenax variegatum. Both have distinct and effective characters, and the latter is one of the best ornamental-leaved plants for exhibition purposes we have. Rhopala corcovadensis is the best of that genus for the green- house, and also a good exhibition plant. Several members of the Yucca family are grand for small houses, as they have a neat habit, but are moreover highly ornamental. For exhibitors with limited convenience, several of the species are invaluable. The best are Y. uloifolia variegata, Y. filamentosa varie- gata, Y. quadrlcolor, and Y. filifera. HERBACEOUS PJEONIES. [T the time when herbaceous pseonies begin to die down is the best time in the whole year to begin to take them up in order to divide and replant. Those of our readers therefore who wish to increase their stock may now be on the look-out for the first opportunity ; for August never advances far without making dead rags of paeony leaves, and they may be lifted before the leaves are quite dead — in fact, as soon as they become unsightly with age and the descent of the sap. It would be a good thing for the paeonies and their owners generally, if they were all taken up and divided once in three years, to renew their youth, and bring out the full splendour of the flowers by the additional strength that planting in fresh soil would give them. In this process of replanting there could be no great harm in returning THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 231 them to the very holes they were taken out of, if the holes were first improved by forking up a little of the subsoil, and adding a good dressing of rotten manure. But it would be better practice to give them a new position, as in the fresh soil the growth would be im- proved, and the flowers next season would be enormously large and superbly coloured. But where preonies are doiug well, people will hesitate to incur the trouble of disturbing them, and very properly. It is very well to let well alone, and very ill to disturb anything for the sake of making work. I know of some few good clumps of pseonies that have not been disturbed for ten years at least, aud they flower very freely and delightfully. A private cultivator may have no great desire to multiply the pseonies he has, but where multiplication is desirable, it is as easily done as cutting bread aud butter. Every one of the finger-like tubers will make a plant. I believe that the roots of peonies are about the hardest things to kill that we have in our gardens. I have known bits of root not larger than a horse- bean that have been exposed to sun, wind, rain, and frost for months together, and were then buried two feet deep, throw up leaves in the month of June following, and if left alone would in due time form as good plants as any in the garden. A great many have been destroyed here, yet it has been slow work : wmerever a bit of root got buried at not more than two feet deep, it persisted in publishing the fact of its existence in a sort of never-say-die display of a tuft of leaves where nobody looked for it, and everybody hated it. I mention this persistence of vitality in order to add force to the remark that amateurs not accustomed to garden work have no need to fear that they will kill their panmies by lifting them. If there are fifty prcony plants in a garden where a hundred are required, all that needs be done is to take them up at the end of August or early in September, cut every large plant into two or three, aud leave the small ones uncut ; and plant them again immediately. As to the planting, the non-practical operator is advised to take notice that on the crown of every stool — that is near the point where the stems of their present leaves spring from — are certain plump buds, which if left unhurt will produce leaves and flowers next year. If these plump buds arc destroyed in the process of replantiDg, there will be no flowers ; but if all the visible buds were rubbed oil', the roots would not be killed, because they are capable of forming new crowns, aud in due time will at least produce leaves, and after one season's fair growth will, if left alone, flower freely. Where a great stock is required, they may be divided into as many pieces as there are separate tubers ; and if there are not enough then, all the tubers may be cut into pieces, and be sown like peas, and every one will be a plant in time, and will flower in the third year after being so planted. Almost any soil will suit these plants, but the proper soil is a damp rich loam : they will grow finely in well-manured clay, and the worst of the London soils would answer very well with the help of deep digging, and the incorporation of plenty of good manure. As to position, that also is not of great consequence. Some amount of sun they must have, aud an open position is better than one shaded by walls or trees ; yet shade 232 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. they will bear well. I possess but few, but they are good, and flower finely ; they are in the front of a border skirting grass turf, and are very much overhung by trees and shrubs, but they get a little sun in all seasons. To give water or liquid manure is neither possible in most gardens, nor very desirable in any ; yet if an amateur made a particular feature of a great bed or border of pseonies, and had little else to look after, he might help them much by giving them a heavy soaking once a week from the 20th of April till the 1st of July, after which it would be wise to hide the water-pot. It will be gathered from the above hasty notes that these showy herba- ceous plants may be grown everywhere, and that if a collection is to be formed the time is at hand to make preparations, for the ground ought to be deeply dug and heavily manured, as for cauli- flowers or turnips, before August is out, and the young plants should be planted firm some time early in September. In the selection of varieties preference must be given to those raised on the continent, for there are amongst them sorts that pro- duce flowers which have no equal for size, richness, delicacy of colour, and striking effect, in all the range of hardy plants, with the sole exception of the rose. In gorgeousness they beat all roses, but in refinement they do not ; though I would guard the reader who is not really acquainted with the best of the named pseonies, against entertaining for a moment the thought that any of them are coarse. "We have in our gardens some that are coarse enough, but the best of the named kinds are neatly finished in form and colour, though of so enormous a size. And talking of size reminds me of the ex- treme probability that many of our readers have no very distinct idea of the sort of plant a fine herbaceous paeony should be when in its prime. I will suppose therefore that you have in some part of the lawn, a little removed from the highly decorated ground, space for a few beds where herbaceous plants could be enjoyed when in full beauty, and would not obtrude on the view when past their prime. I would have such a spot laid out for them in a series of detached clumps, and I wrould have paeonies, lilies, pyrethrums, Tritomas, Irises, and a few of the most beautiful of the early spring flowering plants mixed together almost indiscriminately, except that none should be overtopped through a bad arrangement as to respec- tive heights. To every pseony I should allow a circle of not less than three feet in diameter, and if planted now out of small nursery pots, or from ground roots, every one would fill the three-feet circle allotted it by the summer of 1871 ; and bold-habited sorts such as Potsii plenissima, would appear more like a bush than a herb, and would show all at once fifty flowers on stems four feet high, each flower six or seven inches across, the petals neatly folded, and con- cealing the centre in the fashion of Anna de Diesbach rose, and the colour of them deep claret-crimson, as rich and pure as similarly coloured roses, camellias, or rhododendrons. To repeat the same variety frequently would not be half so delightful as to have a mixture, the delicate creamy and lemon-coloured varieties would have a charming freshness when contrasted with deep red, bright rose, crimson, and purple. Another of the grandest named varieties THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 233 is Duchesse de Nemours, rich rose-pink with a delicate shade of lavender in the centre, and the habit most stately and commanding. Another fine high-coloured variety is Buckii, a rich rosy-purple ; and in the Tenuifolia section, which is so graceful in habit of growth, we have Tenuifolia Smottthii, vivid rosy-crimson, and Tenuifolia flore plena, deep rich crimson. The following light-coloured varieties are the best in cultivation for distinctness and fine character. Alba mutabilis, immense size, superbly formed, cup-shaped petals, blush deepening to rose, creamy inside ; a most luxurious flower. Comte de Paris, rosy-blush with bright citron centre, like a huge tea rose. Fdidis superbo, deep rose, edged blush. Festiva, cream and canary, like a tea rose, with hollyhock guard. General Bertrand, pure rose, double to the centre, stately in habit, fine to stand by itself on a lawn in a three-feet bed of deep rich soil. Grandiflora carnea plena, blush and lemon. Grandiflora nivea plena, lemon blush. Lutea variegata, light rose guard, buff centre changing to white. Lilacina superba, rose-lilac and saffron, very distinct, and has a very fresh and pleasing effect in the midst of other colours. Nivea plenissima, a large flower of the most delicate blush-white. Prolifera tricolor, white and lemon, shading to lavender-blush on the outside. Queen Victoria, the form that of a rosette, with bold guard, inside lemon, outside blush, and attaining to a great size, a circumference of near thirty inches being by no means uncommon. Peine des Francais, blush guard, pale straw inside tinted with red at the base. Sulphur ea superba, delicate creamy sulphur, like a tea rose. TJmbellata superba, blush outside, rich yellow within, the substance wax-like, and the flower like a water-lily ; a good substitute, in fact, for the Victoria regia, and only needing a square yard of good loam in any open spot. Virginalis, primrose and white, most delicate and beautiful. Walneriana, blush and yellow. It would be idle work for any one to enter upon the raising of seedlings, unless with such varieties as the foregoing to begin with, for the common pseonies of the borders are trash compared with them. But given good varieties, there may be some pleasure in saving and growing seed, which of course is an easy task enough, and only needs one remark to be made about it, and that is, that it is much better to sow as soon as ripe, than to keep it till the spring ; and the best place for the seed-bed is under a common garden frame. S. H. Culture of Pawxonia Imperialis. — This most beautiful plant can be propa- gated either from the root or cuttings of the stem. It requires a very rich soil to do well in, and if you give it plenty of dung when you plant it, especially when you want to propagate it by the roots, you will be more certain to make fine plants ; and if you planted in the autumn, you will be able to get roots large enough to make plants the next autumn, when you can dig round the mother plant, and cut off as many pieces as you think you require ; place them round the sides of your pots or pans, the latter being preferable, and put in the middle of your pots or pans a mixture of loam, peat, dung, and road-sand. Put them in a cold frame till spring, and then remove them into heat, and in a short time they will start vigorously. When they are grown about three inches, put them into a cooler frame or greenhouse, and, by degrees, harden them off, and stand them out in a shady place all the summer ; and early in autumn plunge them in a south aspect; there let them remain till spring, then pot them off, or turn them out as you may require to use them. 234 WINTER CUCUMBERS. BY A KENTISH GAKDENEB. HAVING been a successful grower of cucumbers for winter consumption for several years past, I bave decided to detail my practice upon paper, in the bope it may prove useful to many readers of the Flokal AVoeld. In the first place, I must remark that the details given below refer to cucumbers grown in houses only, and not to those grown in frames with dung-heat, and I may state that the bottom-heat is furnished by a tank filled with water, through which a four-inch flow and return pipe is carried, which is heated from the boiler, in con- junction with six other pipes of the same size for top-heat, in a small lean-to house, 16 feet by 10. I have full control over all the pipes, and only use those for top-heat when the weather is severe, and I wish to maintain a regular temperature for fruiting plants. And on this depends much of the success ; for where there is a deficiency of heating surface the plants suffer materially in frosty weather if they are allowed to get chilled. The soil I use is a sweet turfy loam, half decomposed leaf-soil, and well-rotted dung, in equal parts. To every barrow-load of this I add about a gallon of coarse sand — either river or road sand is the best, as its particles are larger, and consequently they make the soil more porous. I do not like to use for winter work a loam that is destitute of its turfy surface, as it tends to make the bed too close and impervious to air and water. After the bed bos been made up a few weeks, therefore, I procure a thin surface spit from which the turf has not been removed. When this .has lain by for a few months, it cuts up with the spade in excellent condition. I cut it into pieces about half the size of one's hand, and well incorporate it with the other ingredients. It would surprise those who advocate the growing of winter cucumbers in a soil consisting chiefly of peat earth to see what luxuriant foliage they make, and how vigorously the roots ramify and extend themselves in and around these turfy- lumps, and its nature gives to the other component parts an agree- able consistency, while its turfy texture admits of a free access to air and water, without which the plants cannot long remain in health. The rotten dung and half-decomposed leaves are both essential ; the first to afford the roots a sufficient amount of nourish- ment, and the latter are valuable for the organic matter which they contain, and on which the plants will feed with avidity, and show their gratitude by exposing to the cultivator well developed foliage of the densest dark green, such as every good grower of cucumbers delights to see, and without which a satisfactory produce cannot be expected. The above compost should be put on the tank in a moderately moist but not in a wet condition. As to the time of planting, many years' experience convinces me that it should not be delayed after the third week in August. Of course, they may be planted later and made to fruit during the winter; but requiring cucumbers from December onwards, which THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 235 we do, I have never yet succeeded in getting a vigorous consti- tutioned plant when put out after the above time. When planted early, they have time to make a good growth before winter without the aid of lire-heat; and wheu plants furnish themselves well over the trellis under such conditions, I find they are much less liable to feel the effects of a varying temperature in the after management, as, not being coddled up in the first stages of their growth, they are more hardy, and will endure a certain amount of excLtement without injury. Among many Kentish gardeners, I find that struck cuttings from favourite varieties are generally considered the best for winter work, but for myself, unless 1 have some special sort I wish to increase or cultivate for the winter, I find seedling plants answer every pur- pose, and, indeed, they are less liable to come to premature decay than plants from cuttings, as I have before now seen a whole house of cucumbers drop their leaves and wither up in a day during sultry weather in July, yet with no fault in the management. I have never seen the same with plants raised from seed. "Whether they ever go off so suddenly I cannot say. I must now deal with the planting, and whether the plants are from seed or cuttings the remai-ks will apply. Presuming that the plants are ready, the house thoroughly cleansed from all dirt, the paint all scrubbed, and the glass well cleaned, and the soil being in its place for some days, with the boiler and hot-water pipes in good repair, we may plant with a reasonable hope of success, if there is no break-down with the boiler and no steaming of the plants. Put the plants in the soil, with only just a gentle pressure round each. A small supply of water may be given at this time to settle the soil down to the roots. I prefer to plant of an evening, and then shade for the next two days, not longer, and not then unless it is very bright, as I always like to inure my plants to full exposure to the sun in all their -stages, as it gives them a greater power of endurance against any other little vicissitudes that may happen. When cucumbers in houses flag, it is caused either by a weak constitution or for the want of water, or for the want of a judicious system of air-giving. PLANTS EMPLOYED EOR THE DECORATION OF APARTMENTS IN PARIS. BY AKTONINE CHANTIN, Rue de Chatillon, Paris. |]T is known that immense numbers of plants are sold in Paris for the embellishment of apartments* where true " window gardening " is far better understood than in almost any other city. The plants, which experience of their constitution and appreciation of their beauty, have rendered especially popular for these purposes, are just such as a considerable number of amateurs would be glad to possess for their 236 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. conservatories and greenhouses, because of their distinctive beauty and great powers of endurance. Therefore, I anticipate the list which follows will be largely useful, both to such as desire to enlarge their collections for window and table decoration, and for others who would prefer to have in their conservatories the most elegant and striking forms of vegetation without incurring great expense or serious trouble. It will be noticed that Palms play an important part in the embellishment of apartments in Paris : — Chamcerops humilis and excelsa, two very fine hardy palms. Corypha australis. — This plant, although now but little known, is destined in a short time to occupy a foremost place in the decora- tion of apartments, where it makes itself conspicuous by its peculiar beauty, and the number of its leaves ; it is, I believe, the most rustic in appearance of all the palms. Cocos coronata and flexuosa are very elegant, and produce a charming effect. Latania borbonica is certainly the most recherche plant of this family, and is valued as much for the beautiful green of its leaves as for its elegant appearance. Phoenix dactylifera, leonensis, and reclinata are also very much sought after, and are highly esteemed. Areca alba, lutescens, and rubra, are distinct and handsome. The following list of palms could also be used with great advan- tage in the decoration of apartments ; but their high price and great rarity cause them to be not much known, although they accommo- date themselves to the atmosphere of rooms as well as any of those previously mentioned. Areca sapida, most of the species of the genus Caryota, Cha- uncedorea amazonica and elatior, Chamcerops palmetto, Elais Guinien- sis, Euterpe edidis, with its finely-serrated and very graceful foliage ; Oreodoxa regia, young plants of which are frequently used ; Phoenix pumilis, Phapis Jlabelliformis, and Thrinax argentca and elegans. Next in importance to the palms we must place the Drac^nas. Those which are the most frequently noticed are Dracwna australis, canncefolia, congesta, indivisa, rubra, striata, terminates, and umbra- culifera. Those most easily managed, and therefore the most popu- lar for window ornameuts, are Dracama congesta, rubra, and ter- minalis. Pandanus utilis, and Javanicus variegaius ; Cycas revoluta, and the different varieties of Aspidistra, occupy also a very important place in the decoration of apartments. The plants composing the following list, although very rural and elegant in appearance, are less sought after and cultivated than the preceding ones, because tbey are more difficult to manage as window plants, and require considerable care and attention. They are more suitable for frames and cases, and may frequently be met with cul- tivated in that manner. Several species of Aralia, more especially Aralia Sieboldii ; Bambusa japonica varieqata and B. Fortunei variegata; the different varieties of Begonia; most of the Bromeliacea ; Caladium odorum, for winter decoration, and the other species, with their beautifully- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 237 spotted and mottled leaves, for the summer ; Carludovica palmata and plicata ; Croton pictum, C. pictum variegatum, and C. discolor; Curculigo recurvata ; some species of the genus Dieffenbachia. The Ficus elasticus is a very elegant plaut for a window ornament, and some years ago was very much employed for that purpose ; but since it has become somewhat common Ficus Chauvieri has been substi- tuted for it in many places. Isolepis gracilis, a pretty rush, is most elegant ; it requires plenty of water. Maranta zebrina — this is the only species of Maranta suitable for cultivation in apartments, as all the others speedily succumb to the hot and dry atmosphere insepa- rable from a living room. Several species of Musa are favourites, but principally M. discolor and M. rosea ; Musa ensete is particularly suitable for window culture, but it is still so scarce, and of such a high price, that it is but seldom met with. Pandanus amaryllifolius. Philodendron pertusum was much sought after during the past winter, and has in most places thrived so well that it has given general satisfaction. Several varieties of Dasylirium and Beau- camea are very suitable for rooms, and produce a very beautiful and graceful effect when grown in suspended vases or baskets. Bhopala corcovadensis : this plant exhales a somewhat disagreeable odour, but is nevertheless very much sought after, on account of its veryelegaut and graceful appearance during the development of its young leaves. Tradescantia discolor, Phormium tenax, Rhododendron, Camellia, Grevillea robusta, (Euonymus, Aucuba, Bonapartea, Agaves, etc., etc. The family of ferns, although classed among plants with delicate tissues, and having a great dislike to dry hot atmospheres, neverthe- less furnishes numerous examples, which, with careful management, add very much to the beauty of apartuents. Thus I have very frequently remarked several species of Adiantum, which, wherever they can be preserved in good health, produce without doubt a most ravishing effect. Pteris argi/rea, P. cretica albo lineata, and P. serrulata variegata also produce a very fine effect, with their prettily- marked foliage. Alsopliila australis and Balantium antarcticum are also sometimes employed for decorative purposes in rooms of large dimensions, where their magnificent appearance never fails to produce a very imposing effect. All kinds of plants bearing flowers have paid their tribute to the ornamentation of rooms, from the humble mignonette, upon which the patient sempstress loves to turn her weary eyes, to the magnifi- cent orchid that, with its brilliant colours and fantastic forms, fills with grace and beauty the apartments of the affluent. Until very recently, I had believed that orchids would never flourish if taken from the greenhouse ; but a gardener of my ac- quaintance has introduced them while in bloom into a drawing- room with perfect success, the plants not having suffered in the least by the change of atmosphere. These orchids were species of Ly caste, Cattleya, Yanda, Aerides, etc. 233 ODDS AND ENDS. BY THOMAS WILLIAMS, Bath Lodge, Orm&kirk. AS AYENTTE OP PJE0N1A OPPICINALIS. you ever see one ? if not you have missed one of the grandest imaginable sights vegetation can produce. In an old-fashioned farmhouse garden, not far from where I live, this truly noble flower predominates over all other things, having been largely grown by a former proprietor for market purposes. As there is always a ready sale for the blooms of this flower, the present proprietor finding the plants scattered all over the garden, collected them together, and planted them a yard apart systematically on each side of a walk about fifty yards long. Each plant produces from ten to fourteen enormous crimson flowers, each as large as a child's head. This avenue once seen is never to be forgotten ; it seemed to me like an avenue lead- ing to the abode of the gods. We read of green cloth and crimson cloth being spread under the feet of high-born lords and ladies on state occasions, but how contemptibly feeble all these appliances appear compared with this truly " royal road," and a person may almost fancy himself deified by walking along such a path. The Welsh name for this plant is " Blodan Brennin." or the King's Flower, a proper name for so truly a regal plant. I am not advo- cating lines or avenues of this fine thing, but have brought it forward simply to ask, why, in the name of all that is beautiful, is this noble plant confined to cottage and farm gardens ? Why is it not planted by hundreds about every large mansion, and by the thousands in our squares and parks ? What a tropical eftect a clump of about one hundred of these plants would produce. How beneficent is that Providence which, while it gives to the wealthy their parterres and conservatories, permits the cottager to be the custodian and conser- vator of such a plant as this, which, were it a rarity, and introduced for the first time, would almost tempt a man to lay down a coronet to obtain it. JAPANESE ASPARAGUS. Another very stately and very little known herbaceous plant, though from its magnitude it may be termed an herbaceous tree, is Polygonum Sieboldii, which the Japanese are reported to use in the same way that we do asparagus. This is a plant certain of commanding attention ; its large shield-shaped leaves, like those of a small caladium, are very striking ; its stems, nearly an inch thick, are marbled red, and in autumn it is covered with catkin-like white inflorescence, not unlike Spirece sorlifolia. Perhaps no plant in the temperate regions of the globe grows with more rapidity than this ; early in April there is nothing to be seen of it, before the middle of May you have a plant of tree-like habit, from five to seven feet high, with from ten to twenty stems, hand- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 239 some in every sense. It will grow anywhere and everywhere, hut from its rapidity of growth does not like wind ; it will send its under- ground stems through a brick wall, and the only difficulty with it is to keep it at home ; it would soon cover an acre if left to itself; it should be treated something like a raspberry, have all suckers removed every year from around the established plant. However, in wilderness scenes, and in the sloven's garden, it may be left to itself. It is peculiarly adapted for the margin of lakes and water- scenes, or any wet place where nothing else perhaps would grow. The plant is certainly the king of the Polygonums. Of course, the young rising steins are those eaten in Japan. THE WHITE-WASH TKEE. Whatever can that be ? I hear somebody ask with surprise. This is a very singular member of the Rubus, or bramble family. Rubus leucoclermis, an upright growing, branching kind of raspberry, or bramble, not unlike in habit to Rubus suh-erectus, growing about six feet high ; stems numerous, arching towards the extremity, and as white as if they had been white-washed, as we sometimes see apple-trees in orchards. Planted in the general shrubbery it at once commands attention by its white stems and branches standing out and relieving the masses of green about it ; it is just the sort of plant to make one step out of the way to see whatever it can be, and is, to say the least, very singular ; and among masses of ever- greens is as telling as the aueuba or golden holly. Beautiful foliaged plants are much sought after ; beautiful barked trees are not much known, or, perhaps, cared for, but some, such as the golden barked ash and Acer Pennsylvania, are very handsome ; but Rubus leuco- dermis is the handsomest barked shrub I have ever seen. EPIPHTLLUM TRUNCATUM CULTURE. BY WILLIAM COLE, Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex. .HERE is no necessity for a long treatise upon the culti- vation of the Epiphyllum, for all that is necessary to be said will come into a small compass. I shall simply detail my system of growing these things, and if there is nothing new in this communication, it will at least be truthful, and to those who know little about their habits and re- quirements, valuable, because, by faithfully following the directions given herein, there will be no fear of failure. In some respects the Epiphyllums are analogous to the orchids, and a good orchid grower ought to be able to handle them success- fully. To grow and flower either of these subjects well, they must have a season of growth and a season of rest in a more marked manner than the generality of flowering plants. The Epiphyllums can be 240 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. grown as dwarf specimens on their own roots, or as standards grafted on the Pereskia aculeata, according to the taste of the cultivator, but if I may be allowed to offer a suggestion upon this matter, I should advise their being grafted on stocks from twelve to eighteen inches in height. Grafting can be most successfully performed in the spring, when the plants are in full growth ; that known as side or tongue grafting being the best system to adopt. The scion should correspond in size with the stock, and be secured to it with a piece of matting. A little moss should then be bound round to maintain a little moisture about the junction of stock and graft, and to exclude the air. Cuttings can also be struck at the same time with but little trouble, as the small branches will emit roots, even when laying upon a damp surface. Inserted round the sides of a five- inch pot, and then placed in a temperature of about 603, they will soon form roots, and start into growth. The most important matter connected with striking the cuttings is to guard against giving them too much moisture, for if they are kept too wet before they are rooted, the soft wood will speedily rot. The young plants can remain in the cutting pot until the following spring, and then be potted off and treated as I shall direct in the following re- marks. As there is no material difference in the treatment of own-root and grafted specimens, it must be understood that the undermen- tioned cultural directions will apply with equal force to both. In the first place, allow me to say that it is a matter of impossibility to do these things justice without the aid of a stove, or intermediate house. I have tried a warm greenhouse, but with little success ; I can manage to keep the plants healthy and the growth steadily pro- gressing, but I cannot succeed iu getting more than three or four flowers upon a large plant. The growth must be made early in the year, and to do that a temperature of about 60° is necessary. My plants bloom about Christmas, some before and some after, and they last good for about a month. Early in February all the dead flowers are removed and the whole stock shifted. Old specimens have the balls reduced, and are re-potted in the same size again, but younger and smaller ones have a shift into a pot one size larger, which is quite sufficient for the most vigorous specimen. After the potting is completed, our plants are removed to a shelf near the glass, in one of the succession pine stoves, the temperature of which averages 65°. Here they have nothing but a slight sprinkle overhead occasionally with tepid water until a new growth is commenced. After that water can be applied carefully to the roots, increasing the supply as the young growth makes headway, and the pots fill with roots. The gradual increase in the temperature necessary for the pines suits them admirably, and here they make a splendid growth. When the sun gets very powerful after March, it will be advisable to screen the tender growth from its rays foi a few hours during the hottest part of the day ; but at other time;- it is well nigh impossible to keep them too close to the glass, or to give them too much light. Throughout the growing season the ordinary precau- tion of applying a sufficiency of water to the roots, without soddening THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 241 the soil, must be rigorously adhered to, or all other precautions and attentions will be of little avail. By the end of June or middle of July the growth should be completed, and the stock ready for removing to colder quarters. The supply of moisture both at the roots and overhead must be lessened in a gradual manner previous to their removal from the pine stove, for the purpose of making the young wood firm, and the change from the warm temperature felt in a less severe manner. An ordinary greenhouse with full exposure to all the air and sun- shine it is possible to give them, will be the best position for enabling the growth to get thoroughly matured by the end of September, when they return to the stove. I have frequently placed specimens out of doors, at the foot of a south wall, but the rains come and they get more moisture at the roots than is good for them. From the time of the removal from the stove in the summer, until their return in the autumn, no more water must be applied to the roots than is -just sufficient to keep the branches firm. The flowering season may be prolonged by deviating the stock and allowing an interval of about a month to elapse between the time of the first and second batches being placed in the stove. With regard to soil I need only say that equal parts turfy loam and fibry peat, with a liberal proportion of either silver or river sand added thereto, is all that is required. There is now a large number of varieties of U. truncatum, the best of which I consider to be the following : Aurantiacum roseum, amabile, salmonium g rand ij\ 'o?-um, spectabile carminatum, splendent, and violaceum superbum. But where there is room to spare, all the varieties are well worth growing. NOTES EOS THE KITCHEN GARDEN. BY GEOEGE GEAY, Head Gardener, Norbitoti Hall, Kingston, S.W. jIARCH and August are two important months in the kitchen garden, for the summer supply of vegetables depends upon how matters are arranged in the first named mouth, and upon the latter depends the winter's supply. If there is any difference it is more important that the several crops in autumn should be got in at the right time than the spring-sown ones. When sown too early the plants grow too large, and either suffer in the winter or " bolt" in the spring, just as we think they are on the point of perfecting. On the other hand, if sown too late, they do not acquire sufficient strength to carry them through the winter, or are not strong enough to do much good in the spring. I have the bulk of my " winter stuff," such as borecole and broccoli, planted out and established at this moment ; but I have vol. iv. — ~so. VIII. l6 242 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. seen several gardens within the last clay or two, where the plants are still standing in the seed-beds, and everything going on as if there was plenty of time for them to make a strong growth after another two months. This is a serious mistake, and if the plants are not got into their permanent quarters at once the produce will not be worth gathering. These things must have time to attain free growth before the cold weather sets in, or it is impossible for them to produce a full crop. I prefer fresh dug ground for planting all kitchen garden crops, but we have to occupy so much of our ground with potatoes that we are bound to plant between them at this time of the year. Strong plants are required for this work, and a small portion of the potato haulm should be removed if it is likely to smother them up. I generally plant early potatoes in the quarters I intend to fill with winter greens ; and as soon as they are taken up fork the space between the rows carefully with an ordinary digging fork. It is time now for all winter greens to be planted out, and if neglected much after this time, it will be wiser to destroy the plants than to undergo the labour necessary to give them a chance. When planting in open quarters I always have a shallow trench drawn out where the rows are to go, and fill the trench with water a short time previous to planting. It is a common practice to fasten the soil just round the neck of the plant, without troubling to make it firm as far as the roots extend. The plants are dropped in the holes, and about a dozen strokes of the dibber applied to the surface soil. This only makes the soil firm about the neck, and leaves the roots quite loose ; whereas the dibber thrust down a short distance from the stem once as far as the roots go, will make the plants as secure as possible. A sharp look out must be kept after the grubs which attack the plants at this season, for they will soon destroy the crop if not caught and destroyed. The soil about each plant should be carefully stirred with a short piece of pointed stick, when the grubs can be easily seen and caught. Immediately the leaves of the first plant droop, active measures must be commenced. I have seen whole quarters cleared before the owner of the garden could learn the cause of the destruction. Hundreds of gardeners, both amateurs and professionals, are afraid of hoeing the soil between growing crops in dry weather, for fear of its drying up more than it would if the surface is firm and solid. I do not feel at liberty to occupy space so valuable as these pages are with discussing the theoretical part of the question, but I can say as a matter of fact, that plants which have the hoe run through the soil between the rows, will make nearly double the growth others will that are left alone. Early this month, the principal autumn sowing of cabbage ought to be made. Atkins's Matchless and Enfield Market, are two good kinds. This is also the best time for making a sowing of the Red Dutch for pickling. Many cultivators fail in getting these to a large size, simply because they sow in the spring instead of the autumn. Where winter salads are in request, a good breadth of Green THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 243 Curled and Batavian Endive ought to be sown the second week. Also Walclieren Cauliflower, and Brown Cos and Hammersmith Lettuce for standing over the winter in frames. It is also worth while to plant a few of these at the foot of a south wall, for in mild winters they will stand uninjured, aud be useful in the spring. There is nothing new in the dates specified for sowing the above- mentioned vegetables, but as many amateurs are at a loss to know the right moment for doing so, I have added them to these few notes, with the hope that they may be useful. POLYANTHUS CULTURE, IN POTS AND THE OPEN BORDER. BY J. JAMES, Head Gardener to W. Watson, Esq., Isleworth. SHE inducement is great to say a few words about these beautiful gems. For all lovers of them hope that some means may be found to restore them to the favour they so thoroughly deserve, but which they have mysteriously lost. At present they are not grown and appreciated as they should be, considering the extreme beauty of the flowers and their comparative inexpensiveness and simplicity of management. Where pot culture is practised, the assistance of a cold frame will be necessary for a few months previous to the flowering season ; but when the cultivator is content with them in the open border, a grand collection may be grown without the aid of an inch of glass, or a shilling expense beyond that expended in the purchase of a little manure and the rent of the ground occupied. At one time the Polyanthus was very popular, and the flowers had attained a state of perfection almost unknown to us, for a long season of neglect has occasioned the loss of the splendid named varieties formerly in exist- ence. This, however, can be easily remedied by a close application to the rules necessary to produce first-class flowers of the florist's type ; for though we cannot bring back the dead to life, we can raise varieties that will equal, if not surpass, those which used to gladden the hearts of the florists of former days. In dealing with the cultural details — which happily are exceed- ingly simple — we will take the pot culture first. We will suppose that only the best varieties are "to be grown this way, and that the cultivator has possession of seed sufficiently choice to be worth more trouble than that incurred in merely sowing it in the open border. Here, we sow the seed as soon after it is ripe as convenient, but it may be sown early in the spring. It is of course necessary to sow early in the summer, if the spring season is lost, to enable the plants to get strong by winter. Our seed is sown in ordinary seed-pans or boxes, and placed in a frame with a north aspect. This I have found to be the best position for them, as it gives the young plants full exposure to the light directly they peep through the soil, without 244 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. the risk of being dried up, and it also does away with the trouble of shading. Nothing is gained by leaving the seedlings in the pans after they are up ; consequently, directly they have three or four rough leaves we prick them off into other pans prepared in much the same manner as those used in sowing the seed, but filled with a rougher compost. For a week or so after undergoing the trans- planting operations, keep them close just to enable them to recover themselves, and then either remove the lights altogether, or stand the pans or boxes at the foot of a north wall. Here they may remain until September or October, according to the season and the time the seed was sown. At this stage a shady border is selected, and if the soil is natu- rally unsuitable for the growth of the Polyanthus, add six inches of good turfy loam and three inches of rotten cow-dung, if it can be procured. Thoroughly decayed hotbed manure will form a capital substitute for the latter. Dig the border as deep as possible without turning up any of the uncongenial subsoil, and well mix the manure and fresh soil throughout the entire depth. It is only in excep- tional cases that the loam need be added, but the dressing of manure and deep digging are always necessary. Plant the stock out about a foot apart each way, and be careful to make the soil firm about them ; also give a good soaking of water to settle the soil, if the weather happens to be dry at the time they are planted. As they come into flower in the spring, get a few tallies ready and mark each plant that is thought to be worth growing in pots, and pull up the worst and throw them away at once. The others that are not good enough for pots, but too good to destroy, can be allowed to remain until the autumn, and then be planted in the shrubbery and herbaceous borders. Prom this time until the succeeding February, the plants will be able to take care of themselves, unless we happen to get a roasting summer like that of 18G8, and then a layer of rotten manure spread over the surface between the rows will be of immense service in keeping the roots cool, as also will be a few thorough soakings of water. Mere surface waterings are worse than useless, therefore they must be avoided. In February lift them without injuring the roots, and pot firmly in either 5 or 6-inch pots, according to the size of each individual, and use good fibrous loam mixed with a small quantity of manure and sand. I always have a thin layer of manure placed between each layer of turves, when stacking up as it comes home from the common or pasture, and then no mixture of manure is necessary when used for potting. After they are potted we place them in a frame facing south, in which a good bed of coal-ashes has been pre- viously made up, and give all the air it is possible to give them. In ordinary weather, we draw the lights off altogether, and never think of shutting them down except when frosty. The Polyanthus is perfectly hardy, and, like other hardy plants, soon ruined if treated as a tender exotic. I do not, however, con- sider it advisable to let them get frozen when in pots, and to prevent this, a mat is thrown over the glass during a severe frost. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 245 After the beauty of the flowers is past, turn the plants out into a border prepared as advised for the seedlings, and loosen the roots carefully before doing so. Towards the end of August or beginning of September take the whole lot up and divide them into moderate- sized tufts. Plant again in the same border, and when February comes round, take up and pot and treat as before. To ensure good flowers, the seed must be saved from those which possess the desired size, shape, colour, and regularity of markings, and the plants from which it is intended to save seed should be protected by a screen of some sort to prevent the pollen from infe- rior flowers getting to them by insect and other agency. A skeleton frame made with a few strips of wood, similar in shape to a hand- glass, and then covered with coarse canvas, will afford effectual protection. When grown simply for border decoration, sow the seed in the open ground and transplant in the autumn. These, when they get into large tufts, can be divided at the will of the cultivator. Where pot culture is practised, there will always be plenty of inferior flowers for the border. NEW CLOTHES FOR OLD PEGS. HO has ever tried the effect of a large clump of the old everlasting pea pegged down ? I have seen a circular bed, with a handsome shrub in the centre, completely covered in that way, and the appearance was as pleasing as novel. The climbing nasturtiums may be prettily used as edgings, trained over half hoops ; and ivy may be treated in a similar manner. Sweetbriar, clipped down to six or eight inches, makes a fragrant and useful border, especially to sloping beds. Strong-growing roses, pegged-down, have a charming effect, as like- wise have some of the slender-habited petunias, redolent with the scent of honey, and favourite haunt of bees. What is a garden without a bower ? Every garden, therefore, however small, should have, if not a veritable bower, an arbour or summer-house of some kind as a substitute. Such structures are easily contrived, and in spite of such slight drawbacks as spiders and earwigs, or the occasional irruption of an uninvited toad, are the only true places for the enjoyment in hot weather of the arcadian luxury of tea and shrimps, together with those charming little episodes of squeaks and gathering up of skirts wherewith the fair sex (Vho are always to be found in bowers) testify their dire alarm at the bounce of an audacious wasp, or the grisly crawlings of an intrusive slug. However they are peculiarly appropriate localities for quiet talk and consumption of the fragrant weed. W. D. P. 246 VEBBENAS IN POTS. BY J. T. M'ELllOT, Head Gardener at Moray Lodge, Campdeu Hill. |OR selecting plants, the present time is about the best during the year, because most of them now growing are from late struck cuttings. Such being the case they are generally clean and healthy, and more so if the pots have been plunged in any cool materials under glass, as decayed tan or leaves, for example. Besides, you have the advantage of seeing their flowers, they being more decided in colour now than earlier or later in the season. Having procured your plants, reduce their shoots, if long, to two or three eyes — the object being to keep them bushy while young. As soon as the new growth is visible, pot them into five-inch pots. Use plenty of drainage. The soil should have mixed with it a fourth of silver sand. After you have shifted them, put them into a cool frame, and keep shaded from the burning rays of the mid-day sun. As soon as you consider them sufficiently rooted in the new soil, uncover them during the day, and continue to stop the shoots as they may require. Keep the wood as short-jointed as possible at this stage of their growth, by having the plants always near the glass, and freely ventilated. Do not think of further shifting them till the following February. The most suitable place for them during the winter is the top shelf of a greenhouse, or a pit that is heated by hot water or otherwise. The most destructive enemy they have to contend against during the winter mouths is damp, which creates mildew, and the green-fly. Fumigation with tobacco is the only remedy for the destruction of the green-fly ; and, by way of economy, if the other plants in the house do not require to be fumi- gated, then put the verbenas into a box or baud-light for the purpose, and when you consider the fly on them destroyed, give the plants a gentle syringing, after which replace them in their former position. If you are anxious to have them in full bloom by the latter end of May or beginning of June, you must, if the plants are thrifty, shift them in the month of February into their flowering pots ; and that you may get them well established in the same, let their pots be plunged into a mild bottom-heat. They will, from this time till their flower-buds appear, require to be grown in a warm moist atmosphere, and their shoots stopped often, if they become long-jointed. As regards the style of training, that is a matter of taste. I have had them trained to a balloon trellis with good effect, and equally so on a flat surface, with a slight rise in the centre, similar to the mode adopted by the growers of zonal geraniums. Thus treated, I have seen some very large plants grown in nine-inch pots, and literally covered with bloom. In their final potting they must have plenty of drainage ; any kind of soil that is sweet, and of a light loamy texture, well incorporated with decayed manure or leaf-mould, with some silver sand, will suit them. 247 THE AUCUBA AND THE LILY. gj1 DO not know how it is you are so different to others in your ways and mode of doing," said a Lilium Candidum to a fine Aucuba, as they stood together in an old English garden. "I am so ashamed of you, for no sooner is the place clearrd up and all around pleasant to look at, rich brown loam below, and bright blue sky above, than down you come with your heavy dead leaves, enough to upset one completely. Why cannot you cast your old dress in the autumn as others do? it might then be of service in keeping something warm." " Why, you see, Lady Lily, my dress has to be worn much longer than yours, more than one or two summers, and even then I like to be donning the new before I part with the old. Though I am broad and high, thick in build, and heavy in foliage, yet I am rather delicate by nature : extremes do not suit me. In the shortening days of November, when the cold comes from the north, and our com- panions, the Birches and Sycamores, are so thinly clad, I tremble lest my garments should fall away too. I fear the cold so much ; I cannot bear many degrees of trust. Woe to me if I must face the winter bereft of all covering — -my beauty would soon be lost." "Beauty, indeed! I wonder where you have it?" said the Lily, opening wider and wider her snow-white petals until they were in danger of breaking away. "I have stood looking at you for yeai-s, and could not see it ; you are always the same, perhaps a little duller in the winter — a shapeless, graceless thing at best." "All do not think so," replied the Aucuba ; " to the cultivated eye my beauty is ever present, never more so than when in winter, my large, smooth, richly-painted, and finely-polished leaves grace some pleasant lawn." " You are very disagreeable at this season, anyhow. I have often heard the gardeners abuse you, as a dirty, untidy shrub, best fitted for growth in the wild woods." " Yet they are glad of me all the same. In the dark flowerless months they visit me much too freely with their sharp knives. Ah me ! what fine branches they cut away for mimic trees ; I might grieve over it, but, but then it is a good thing to be of use if one has no beauty." " Beauty or no beauty, I wish my home had not been placed so near to you. My refined sense of neatness and order is outraged every day. When I put on my best appearance, I think, surely, you put on your worst. There you are again, a whole shower of dark, heavy leaves at my feet, coming down with such a thud, that my poor bulb takes long to recover." "Don't shake yourself so violently, Lady Candidum, lest your rich colour should drop upon your white dress and stain its purity. After all, I am your best friend, though you are unwilling to think so, my compact form and dense foliage enhances your beauty ; what would you be, growing out on a common without shade, or shelter, or contrast, I wonder ? " "I could very well do without you — you are nothing to me," replied the Lily, as she folded herself up for the night ; " you only hide from me the morning sky and the early sunshine." Nest morning a cold east wind was blowing over the English garden, the Syca- mores turned the under side of their branches to meet the storm, and the Birch trees murmured sadly as they swayed to and fro, and the poor Aucuba held to its withering leaves as though unwilling to part with the least bit of warmth or shelter they could afford to its tender growth. And the Lilium Candidum looked out into the changed world and sighed for the peerless purity of its white blooms, which could not easily outlive such a storm. " How do you feel now ?" said the Aucuba bitterly; "ashamed of your companion ? If you stood where I do, there would not be a patch of your white dress which would not be changed to a grey rag before night. You are an ingrate — who sheltered you through the long winter, and made a ray ef warmth and comfort over the snowy ground t" " I wish I were nearer to you." " So you will be when the summer comes again, I am growing out to you ; but my leaves will tumble down just as heavily as you think they do now. I cannot change." Claude. 248 HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS. Pelargonium Show, Kensington, May 22. — This was in every way a brilliant affair, all the leading misers and growers of the various classes of Zonal Pelar- goniums coming out in strong force. The entries in the class for best Gold Zonals were remarkahly numerous. Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son, St. John's Wood, took the first prize with Peter Grieve, a splendid variety, perfect in form, and richly coloured, well deserving the honour conferred upon it. Equal seconds were awarded to Turner's Mrs. Headly and Carter's Prince of Wales, two grand varieties, brilliant in colour, but a few points less perfect than Peter Grieve; Turner's Achievement third. The most conspicuous amongst those not receiving an award were, Carter's Mrs. Tom Hood, Turner's Madlle. Christine Nilsson, Henderson's Sowarth Ashton and Pride of Cashmere, Stevens's Ealing Rival, and Smith's (of Dulwich) Coronet, Gladiator, and Champion. All these are well deserving a place in the most select collection, and will, we believe, ultimately become popular favourites. The new Silver Zonals show very little improvement over varieties of former years. Mr. Turner first with Excellent, and second with Mrs. Brydges ; Mr. Coomber (Highgate), third with Mrs. Col. Wilkinson. Messrs. Carter had Princess of Wales ; Messrs. Smith, Miss Burdett Coults ; and Messrs. Lee, Mrs. John Clutton ; ail fine varieties. Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing, Forest Hill, held their own in the Bronze Zonal section, staging varieties, in every way superior to all the old sorts, taking the three prizes for the best with J. W. Morris, Red King, and Imperatrice Eugenie. Three magnificent varieties, Carter's Southern Belle, Henderson's St. Johns Wood Star, and Miss Beatrice, and Smith's Criterion, are all deserving notice. The first prize for the best nosegay went to Mr. Turner for Fire King, a splendid Magenta-crimson flowered variety ; for the best Ivy-leaf to Mr. Wimsett, for a hybrid, named Willsi; and for the best Zonal to Messrs. Smith, for a splendid variety with salmon-coloured flowers, named Acme. Messrs. Carter and Co. and Mr. Turner were first and second respectively for six Gold Zonals. The best varieties staged were, Mrs. Dunnett, Prince of Wales, Princess of Wales, Sir K. Napier, Lucy Grieve, Lady Cullum, Mrs. Headly, Mrs. Turner, and Sophia Cusack. The Silver Zonals were well represented by Mr. Turner, Messrs. E. G. Henderson, and Messrs. F. and A. Smith, with Miss Stevens, Italia Unita, Excellent, Lucy, Mabel Morris, Hon. Mrs. Robertson, Silver Star, Silver Cloud, Charming Bird, Glen Eyre Beauty, and Caroline Longfkld. The Bronze Zonals were shown in grand condition by Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing, first, and Messrs. Carter second. The best varieties in this class being,. Southern Belle, Ada, Damie, Cleopatra, Tom Brown, Criterion, Bed King, Prima Donna, Mrs. A. Pounds, Harrison Weir, Black Prince, Egyptian Queen, and Staustead Beauty. Splendid collections of New Plants were contributed by Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Mr. Bull, and Mr. B. S. Williams, besides many other interesting features from other exhibitors. Crystal Palace Rose Show. — In spite of the untoward weather, the customary feast for rosarians ;it Sydenham was eminently satisfactory. The exhibition was held on the 19th of June, rather early, considering that winter prevailed all through May, and far into June, this year. In almost every garden in the country rose- buds have burst instead of expanding, owing to the killing cold ; yet, the lovers of the flower have lost none of their ardour, as this splendid exhibition proved, to the satisfaction of an enormous throng of admirers. Royal Horticultural Society's Great Rose Show, June 29. — This was, without exception, one of the most brilliant affairs we have yet had to record. The competition was unusually spirited, and the great bulk of the blooms were wonderful for size, colour, and freshness. Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt; Mr. Turner, Slough ; Mr. Cant, Colchester ; Mr. Keynes, Salisbury ; Mr. Coppin, Croydon ; and Mr. Fraser, Lea Bridge, were the principal ]irize-takers in the classes devoted to the trade. And Mr. Chard, Salisbury; Mr. Moffat, Dunmow; Mr. Ingle and Mr- Cant, Colchester ; and Mr. Exall, Maidstone, divided the honours in the amateurs' TIIE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 249 classes. The undermentioned varieties were staged in the several stands in splendid condition : — Prince de Porcia, Clotilde, Pierre Notting, Lselia, Le Rhone, Comtesse de Chabrilland, Antoine Ducher, Devoniensis, Dr. Andry, La France, Madame C. Joigneaux, Duchesse d'Orleans, Marechal Vaillant, Madame de St. Denis, Expo- sition de Brie, Niphetos, Marie Bauman, Madlle. Marguerite Dombrain, John Hopper, Marguerite de St. Amand, Imperatrice Charlotte, Madame Fillion, Rev. H. Dombrain, La Fontaine, Anna de Diesbach, Duke of Edinburgh, Monsieur Noman, Marie Bernardin, Souvenir d'Elise, Marie Rady, Duchesse de Caylus, Gloire de Vitry, Pitord, Madame Furtado, Victor Verdier, Madame Ganrobert, Alfred Colomb, Baroness Rothschild, Marie Luiset, Comtesse Jaucourt, Charles Lefebvre, Madame Willermoz, Camille Bernardin, Marechal Niel, Xavier Olibo, Centifolia Rosea, Princess Mary of Cambridge, Senateur Vaisse, Michel Bennett, Jean Cherpin, Mademoiselle Therese Levet, Beauty of Waltham, Model of Perfection, Thorin, Achille Gonod, Frederic Bihorel, Triomphe de Rennes, Francois Louvat, Souvenir d'un Ami, Horace Vernet, Madame Grondier, Leopold Hausberg, Madame Charles Wood, Madame Victor Verdier, Alice Dureau, Olivier Delhomme, Abel Grand, Francois Touvay, Madame Boll, Felix Genero. The above selection includes all the new varieties worth recording, both as pot plants and cut blooms. Royal Botanic Society's Second Summer Show, June 30 and July 1. — The exhibition on the above-mentioned dates was iu every way a grand finale to a successful season. The cold weather of June had enabled exhibitors to show stove and greenhouse plants, pelargoniums, and other showy subjects, in a fresh condition for the time of year. Therefore these, in combination with the banks of fine foliage plants and ferns, produced a magnificent display. The group of orchids from Mr. Archer, gardener to A. Turner, Esq., Leicester, were certainly the best that has been exhibited for many years past, and reflected the highest credit upon bis skill. The stove and greenhouse plants of Mr. Chapman, gardener to J. Spode, Esq., Bugely, occupied a position analogous to that of Mr. Archer in the orchids, whilst Mr. Fairbairn, gardener to the Duke of Northumberland, Sion House, was the champion in the classes devoted to plants with ornamental leafage, staging fine palms, Alocasias, Anthuriums, and the grandest examples of Maranta rosea-picta, and Thamnopteris nidus ever exhibited. Mr. Baines presented his fine specimen Sar- racenias, in splendid condition. Fruit was a leading feature of the exhibition. The collection from Mr. Miller, Coombe Abbey, was really magnificent. The grapes were plentiful and good ; Mr. Henderson, Cole Orton Hall, first for Black Hamburghs, large in berry and beautifully coloured ; Mr. Cole, Ealing Park, first for Buckland Sweetwater, with superbly-finished examples ; and Mr. Bannerman, first for Black Prince. Mr. Ward, Bishop Stortford, staged the best pines, and Mr. Jack, Battle Abbey, and Mr. Miller, tlie best Peaches and Nectarines. The Rose Shows at Birmingham and Hereford have been decided successes, in every sense of the term, and go a long way to prove the great love which all classes have for the Queen of Flowers. The Birmingham show was the most extensive affair of the kind that has ever taken place. The Hamburgh International Horticultural Exhibition promises to be remarkably successful. The Queen has graciously signified her intention to offer a silver cup for the best specimen of grapes exhibited at the September Exhibition. The Society for the Cultivation of the Rose in Brie-Comte-Robert will send 10,000 cut roses, besides large entries of Gladioli, Roses, and Dahlias from other exhi- bitors. The Royal Horticultural Society's Show of Carnations and Picotees on the 6th ult. was well attended, and the stands of magnificent blooms staged by the growers of these beautiful flowers, were sufficient to prove that the growers of good old florists are by no means extinct, or that the general public have forgotten them. The Royal Horticultural Society's Show at Manchester, in connection with the Royal Agricultural Society's great annual meeting, was a failure in almost every sense ; the result of a complication of blunders by the council, who in this case attained to perfection in the art of " how not to do it." Meteorological Fact. — It is worthy of notice that, on the 21st of December last (the shortest day), and on the 21st of June last (the longest day), the reading of the thermometer in both instances was — lowest temperature in previous night — 54° ; rain. 250 THE GAEDEN GUIDE. Baii.— 2997. Thbr— 72, 53, 61. ) August. Wind.— S., S.E., S.W. Rain.— 2'5 in. Gbeenhohsb Flowbbs. — Erica Aus- tini, E. Macnabiana, E. Marnodciana ; Erytkrina critta-galli ; Fuchsias, Kalo- santhus Boieldieu, Lanfana L'Esperancc; Lapuyeria rosea ; Nerium splendens ; Phcenocnma prolifera; Pleroma elegant.; Tremandra verticillata ; Veronica Ander- soni, V. imperialis. Gabdkn Flowbbs. — Aster coccineus, A. formosus ; Campanula grandis, C. pyramidalis ; Delphinium ammnum ; IDian- thus deltoides, D. superbus; Olaucium Fifheri ; Linum narbonense ; Lychnis fulgent; Nirembergia rivularis ; Pentste- mon Jaffrayanum; Potentilla insignis ; Scutellaria peregrina ; Solidago altissima; Tritoma uvaria. The Weatheb. — The characteristics of August are, an eqsiable temperature, occa- sional showers, and gentle breezes. It is rarely that heavy rains, gales, or frosts occur. The weathercock range3 from due East to South-West. When Easterly, the weather is usually fine ; when going round to West, rain may be expected. Flower Garden. — All tall-growing subjects, such as Dahlias and Hollyhocks, should be staked as required, to prevent the flowering shoots being torn off by the wind. Tall-growing Gladioli, also, ought to be supported with neat sticks, to keep the flowers from the ground. The Dahlias must be tied out, and the flower-buds thinned, if intended for exhibition, iiemove the flower-spikes from all perennials immediately the beauty of the flowers is past, if the seed is not required. Leaving the seed to ripen impoverishes the plants more or less, besides having an unsightly appearance. This is a capital time for sowing seed of these things, as there is plenty of time to get strong plants by the end of autumn, if the seed is got in early this month. Sow in little beds on a shady border, and plant out_ directly the plants are strong enough to handle. Propagate the stock of bedding-plants at once, excepting the Calceolarias, which are best left until the end of September. All the bedding Geraniums strike better on a warm, sunny border than in pots and frames. Prick up the border, and, after making it firm on the surface, insert the cuttings, and, in ordinary seasons, all the attention necessary until they are rooted ■will be simply to give them one good watering to settle the soil, and remove all decayed foliage, to prevent its injuring the other. The Verbenas, Cupheas, Helio- tropes, and Lobelias require more care. The cuttings should be inserted in pots properly drained, and filled with light sandy soil, and then placed in a cold frame, and kept close and shaded until rooted. Greenhouse. — This structure must have a thorough cleansing at once, so as to he in readiness for the reception of the hard-wooded stuff when required. All the wood-work should have a thorough scrubbing with soft soap and warm water, and the walls be washed over with hot lime. Ail painting ought to be finished at once, so as to allow plenty of time for the effluvium arising from it to evaporate before the plants are housed. There is no danger of frost yet, but if we get much wet weather during the month, choice, delicate-rooted plants, like Leschenaultias, Heaths, Genetyllis, etc., must be removed indoors, to have protection from the wet, BolbouS FloWEES. — Calliprora Jlana ; Crocosmia aurea ; Eucomis punctata; ZLamanthus albijlorus, H. coccineus; Ti- gridia pavonia ; Lilium lancij'uliumroseum, L. land folium album ; Gladiolus, Nerine Fothergilli, N. Venusta ; Ismene cala- thina. Siove KloweeS.— JEchmea fulgens ; Allamanda Hendersonii ; Dipladenia ama- bilis; Pentas came a ; Thunbergia lauri- folia; Torenia Asiatica; Yinca rosea; C'attleya crispa* C. Harrisonm ;* Cycno- ches Loddigesii;* Cypripedium barbatum nigrum;* Millonia spectabilis ;* Sobralia macrantha;* Stanhopea Bucephalus ;* S. oculata* " 1 went by the field of the slothful, and by the vineyard of the man void of understanding ; and, lo, it was all grown over with thorns, and nettles had covered tbe face thereof. I looked upon it, and received instruction."— Pbov. sxiv. 30. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 251 or they will suffer considerable injury. After they get indoors, the ventilators must be thrown open as wide as possible day and night. Pot off cuttings of hard- wooded plants that are nicely rooted, to give them an opportunity of getting nicely established before winter. Attend to plants out of doors, and see that they do not suffer for the want of water. Thin out the growing shoots of the climbers, to give the wood intended for next year a chance to get thoroughly ripened. Stove. — Still maintain a brisk temperature, and give plenty of air, and use less shade than hitherto, to ensure the wood being thoroughly ripened. Shut up early in the afternoon. Encourage winter flowering plants with weak manure- water, and give less water to plants that have completed their growth. A large proportion of the Orchids will have completed their growth for this season, and will now require more air and a fuller exposure to the light. Kitchen Garden. — The principal spring crops must be got in this month, and it is highly important that everything in connection with them be done at the right time. If any delay takes place, the plants will not attain their full size ; and, on the other hand, if sown too soon, they get too big, and run to seed directly we get a few warm days in the spring. Sow Cabbage and Endive in the early part of the month, and Lettuce and Cauliflowers about the 20th. At the same time, sow- Tripoli Onion, White Stone Turnip, and Black Spanish Radish. In earthing up Celery, be particularly careful to prevent the soil getting into the hearts. As the Celery makes but little progress after it is earthed up, that operation ought not to be performed until after it is nearly full-grown. Take up and store Garlic and Shalots as they complete their growth. Give Peas, French Beans, and Scarlet Runners liberal supplies of manure-water where practicable. Fruit Garden. — Regulate and train the growth of wall and espalier tree3, so that it has free exposure to the light and air, to enable it to get thoroughly ripened. Let the above and pyramids have a thorough wash overhead frequently, to keep them clean find fresh. There must be no more stopping after this ; but, where the wood is too thick, remove a few shoots altogether. Protect Morello Cherries and other fruit, which it is intended to preserve on the trees after being ripe, with nets, or the blackbirds and thrushes will soon make short work of them. Make new Strawberry plantations as quickly as possible ; and if good strong runners are planted, they will form strong crowns this autumn, and bear a good crop next season. To plant Strawberries in October or spring, as is commonly practised, is simply a waste of the ground thej- occupy for the first year. Forcing. — Prepare the materials for making fresh Mushroom-beds, and spawn those made last month. Vines swelling their fruit must have a moist, growing atmosphere. Muscats must have a temperature five degrees higher than that required for the Hambro's. Give plenty of air to houses in which the crops are ripe, but nail coarse canvas over all openings, to keep the flies and wasps out. The lights should be removed from the early Peach-houses where practicable. Trees growing in houses with fixed roofs should have plenty of air, and receive a tho- rough syiinging two or three times a day. Sow Cucumbers for winter bearing about the middle of the month. Thin out the growth of those in bearing, and water with weak manure-water. Melons, after they are about half grown, should be elevated above the foliage. It is particularly necessary to keep the plants pro- perly supplied with water at this stage ; for, if they get dry at the roots, the fruit will split in all directions as soon as the plants are supplied with water. Fine-Foliage Plants for Rooms. — The coloured-leaved Draccenas, such as T. terminalis, I). Cooperi, and D. ferrea, will do well in rooms through the summer ; but they need artificial warmth in the winter and spring, to enable them to make a new growth for the following season. The green-leaved species that do well in the temperature of a living room, are D. Australis, D. indivisa, and ID. YeitcMi, all of which have an elegant habit ; Pandanus graminifolius has a peculiarly elegant appearance, and the foliage is quite destitute of spines. This is useful for placing upon brackets. Aralia Sieboldii, is perfectly hardy, therefore there need not be any fear of its not doing well. Fieus elasticus and Acacia lophantha are two well-known subjects that do well in rooms. Cannas, in all sizes, make charming subjects for your purpose. They can be preserved in a dry cellar through, the winter, and they will start anywhere in the spring. 252 NEW BOOKS. The Fern Garden : How to Make, Keep, and Enjoy it. By Shirley Hibberd. (Groombridge and Sons.) — This is a small volume, of an unpretending nature, intended more especially for the guidance of beginners in fern-culture. All technicalities, and the difficulties of classification, have been avoided by the simple arrangement adopted from first to last. The cultivation of ferns is the theme. The chapters severally treat on collecting ferns from the wood?, the forma- tion of out-door ferneries and the construction of fern-houses ; the cultivation of rock, wall, and marsh ferns ; the management of fern cases ; the multiplication of ferns ; the proper treatment of tree-ferns, g.Jd and silver ferns ; greenhouse, stove, and hardy ferns ; and the fern allies, comprising Lycopodiums, mosses, etc., etc. The following is extracted from the chapter on stove and greenhouse ferns : — CULTIVATION OF GREENHOUSE AND STOVE FERNS. " Practically the only difference in the management of the ferns of the green- house and the stove from those of the frame or cool fernhouse consists in the increase of temperature proportioned to the character of the climates in which greenhouse and siove ferns are found growing wild. Various as are the climates and conditions in which ferns thrive on dilferent paits of the earth's surface, they all become amenable to conditions nearly uniform when subjected to cultivation. Give the must delicate fern of the tropics treatment similar to what is advised for our native ferns, but with a higher temperature at every season of the year, and the chances are full ten to one that it will succeed perfectly. But undoubtedly it requires some judgment to assimilate conditions in the midst of which there occurs this important difference of temperature, and so we cannot expect to dispose of the subject of this chapter in any offhand or very general manner. However, we must beg the reader to recall the main points of our advice to this extent, that for outdoor, for frame, and for cool-house ferns, we have constantly recommended the use of a granular and mellow, loamy or peaty soil, a considerable degree of atmospheric humidity, shade from strong sunshine, and, in some cases, a very subdued daylight, as the conditions under which success is most likely to be secured. These several requisites are to be considered of the utmost importance in the cultivation of tender ferns, and the more so that the farther plants of any kind are removed from the circumstances natural to them, the more anxious should the cultivator be to provide for all their wants. '' It is a common thing to see ferns and flowering plants mixed together in the same greenhouse or conservatory. It is quite possible to grow them well when so associated, but so few are equal to the task that when we meet with ferns and flowers in the same house, we usually find one or both in a deplorable condition of disease or imperfect development. "Ferns love shade and flowers love sunshine. Ferns thrive best in a still air, flowers usually require a moving atmosphere, and many kinds that are most highly prized need abundant ventilation. As to atmospheric humidity, while ferns with very few exceptions enjoy abundance of it, there are not many kinds of flowers capable of enduring without injury the degree of aeiial moisture that would benefit the growth of ferns. These are important considerations which we are bound to place before the reader at this juncture, for indiscriminate associations of plants in stoves and greenhouses are the causes of many and bitter disappointments. While this matter is before us, however, it should be said that if due care be exercised, many kinds of ilowering plants may be grown in the same houses with ferns, if the selection is made judiciously in the first instance, and the best positions as to air, light, etc., are selected for them. Thus, as to sorts, it will be found that camellias, azaleas, cyclamens, primulas, liliums, oleas, and statices, are well adapted to associate with greenhouse ferns, if the sunniest positions are assigned them ; on the other hand, heaths, pelargoniums, echeverias, epiphyllums, boronias, epacris, and kalosanthes, are far less suitable, needing more air and sunshine than most ferns could endure without injury. It must be remembered, however, that many beautiful plants, such as palms, for example, may be grown with ferns to afford variety, and the same routine of treatment will suit bcth. In the stove it is com- mon enough to find achimenes, gloxinias, alocasias, caladiums, begonias, gesneras, THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 253 and marantas, associated with ferns without the least injury to either. Yet in the full blaze of sunshine, where a croton or an ixora would thrive, it would be almost impossible for a fern to live, except in the form of a disgrace to its possessor. So far we see that compromises are possible. There is yet another mode of associating ferns and flowering plants in the same house, and that is to make banks and rockeries beneath the stages where shade and humidity will favour the growth of ferns, and render positions otherwise useless and unsightly as attractive nearly as the stages themselves, on which the amaryllids or the pelargoniums are blooming bravely. A bank of peat faced with large burrs answers admirably for a fernery of this sort, and the varieties of cystopteris, woodsia, scolopendrium, and selaginella, are pretty sure to take it readily, while in the most select spots, hymenopbyllums, tticho- manes, todeas, and maidenhairs, will soon become established, and, acquire a luxuriance of growth without the least care, such as to make a mere mockery of all our closed cases and bell-glasses, and curious caves constructed expressly for the cultivation of these gems of the fern garden. " A spacious fernery adapted for ferns of all climates, and for the display of them under circumstances which we may justly describe as natural, forms one of the most valuable embellishments a garden can boast — enjoyable at all seasons, and especially so in winter, when rough weather forbids our seeking open-air enjoy- ments, and when, perhaps, if weather permitted, we should find but little in the garden or the field to interest us. "Although, as explained above, ferns and flowering plants may be grown together, those who would do justice to the former must appropriate a house to them exclusively. It is possible to adapt a south aspect to the purpose, but it is not advisable to encounter such a difficulty. A north or north-west aspect is the best. The house should have a roof of not very steep pitch, a sufficient service of hot-water pipes, and ventilators near the pipes to afford warmth to the fresh air as it enters, and others in the roof at each end, but none elsewhere unless the house is a large one. A frequent change of air is essential to the health of the ferns, but we do not want a rushing wind or so much ventilation as to render the air of the house so dry that the fronds will lose their freshness and health. "Thousands of villas are now furnished with what are called "conservatories," which would answer admirably for ferneries where they happen not to be exposed to burning sunshine all the summer long. The sunniest of these little glass annexes answer admirably for grape vines and succulent plants, such as cactuses and echeverias ; the shady ones would answer admirably for ferns, whether in pots or planted out in miniature rockeries. "In the management of greenhouse and stove ferns the most important matter is to secure a suitable temperature for each department or group of plants. The greenhouse kinds require a temperature of 40' to 50' all the winter, but from the middle of April until the middle of October artificial heat may be dispensed with altogether, unless the weather is exceptionally cold ; and stove ferns require a temperature ranging from 60° in winter to 90' in summer. " In every case the amount of moisture must be proportioned to the tempera- ture, the more heat the more water, both above and below. When the plants are growing freely the syringe should be used to produce a fine shower over them once or twice a day, and water should be sprinkled on the floor to cause an abundant evaporation. They will also require plentiful supplies of water at the roots. " There is no large class of plants in cultivation for which we may so safely give general cultural directions as for ferns, yet certain kinds require exceptional treatment both in heated houses as in cool ferneries and the open air. The gold and silver ferns, such as gymnogrammas, are for the most part highly susceptible of injury through excess of water, especially when administered by means of the syringe. All the tree fern?, such as Dicksonias, require abundant supplies of water, especially over their ample fronds. Most of the kinds which have thick succulent leaves, such as Nipbobolus, require drier positions if planted out, and extra careful drainage if in pots, than others that are of flimsy texture. " The cultivator must be ^careful to regulate heat and moisture in such a manner as to ensure to the plants regularly recurring seasons of activity and rest. When new growth commences in spring there should be a gradual augmentation of temperature and humidity to afford needful stimulus and support. When in autumn growth should naturally cease, the supplies of heat and moisture should be 2-54 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. diminished ; and during the winter rest should be promoted by keeping the bouse as cool and dry as is consistent with safety. It is bad policy to expose ferns to hardships, such as deferring the lighting of a fire until the fronds are actually frozen or mildew has marred their beauty, for the next season's growth is jeopar- dized by such treatment, and some valuable plants may be lost entirely. At the same time the cultivator may take comfortable assurance from the fact that the majority of this class of plants are exceedingly accommodating ; they will at times bear without material injury more damp, more draught, more sunshine, and lower degrees of temperature than a prudent adviser on their cultivation would dare to recommend as good for them. Fully half of the whole number of stove ferns known to cultivators have been well grown in greenhouse temperature, and a very large proportion of greenhouse ferns, properly so-called, have been grown to perfection without any aid from artificial heat, in our own garden. Our large specimens of Adiantum cuneatum, Asplenium biformis, ISlechnum brasiliense, etc., etc., that we nave exhibited in public, have never known a taste of artificial heat from the time when they started from spores under bell-glasses until they attained their present dimensions of a yard or so across." TO CO-RESPONDENTS. Propagating Pansies. — William G., Yorkshire. Tes, these flowers can be increased either by cuttings or seed ; but it depends upon circumstances as to which is the best way. If you desire to raise new varieties, you must sow seed, but if you simply wish to perpetuate existing kinds you must propigate them by cuttings. Where there are no plants to cut from, seed affords the cheapest means of getting up a stock. But if ycu raise seedlings you must not expect to have many equal to the named varieties, for it frequently happens that the raisers have only one or two worth naming out of several thousands. Sow the seed rather thinly in a shallow box or pan, and place in a cold frame or cover with a piece of glass. When large enough to handle, prick out, three inches apart, into a bed slightly raised above the general level and in a sheltered corner, where the slugs are not likely to get at them. Here they are to remain until they flower, and then you can pull up and destroy the worthless varieties, and propagate the others by means of cuttings. Short-jointed, solid side shoots must be selected for cuttings. The main stems which have been producing flowers all the summer are practically worthless, for they are now hollow, and if they do produce roots they will not make such good plants as short, stubby side shoots. Cuttiugs can be struck in boxes or pans, placed in a cold frame and shaded, or in the open border, and covered with a hand- glass. They will also strike with tolerable freedom in the open border, if shaded with a few branches of evergreens stuck amongst them. When rooted, plant out in beds about a foot from plant to plant, and see that the slugs are not allowed to feast upon them. They should have a nice light and rich soil, with which a liberal proportion of manure and leaf-mould has been incorporated. Growing them in pots is an interesting mode, and simple if you go the right way to work. Pot them firmly in five or six-inch pots, well drained, and use a compost made up with two-thirds loam and one-third decayed cow-dung and leaf-mould, and a sprinkling of river sand. Give plenty of air and merely protect from very sharp frost or heavy rains. A reference to page 107 of the " Garden Oracle " for 1869 will give you the desired information respecting the best varieties to purchase. Packing Seeds, Bulbs, Etc., for Export. — In answer to your inquiries for a seedsman who would be willing to help a " Queensland Subscriber," we shall be most happy to treat with you on the subject. We consider the safest way to pack seeds, etc., for the Colonies, etc., is to enclose a little dry powdered charcoal in each packet, the whole parcel to be enclosed in a tin case hermetically sealed. — Dick Radclyffe & Co., 129 High Hoiborn. The Tallow Tree of China. — Inquirer. — The tree you inquire about is Siillingia tebefera, which is cultivated in immense quantities in the provinces of C'hechkiang, Kiangsi, and Kongnain, for the fatty matter obtained from the seeds. THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 255 The seed-vessels are ripe about mid-winter, and are then cut off with their twigs, ■with a sharp knife attached to a long pole. The capsules are gently pounded, to loosen the seed from the shells, and then sifted, to separate the sebaceous matter with which the seeds are enveloped. They are placed iu bamboo sieves over cauldrons of boiling water until thoroughly heated, then reduced to a mash in a mortar, and removed to other sieves placed over hot ashes. The article procured from these runs through and forms a solid mass. This is again heated, and poured into moulds formed with bamboo hoops, three inches deep and twelve inches iu diameter. These are laid on a little straw, and when full a thin layer of straw is laid on the top. When the cakes are of a proper consistence, they are placed in a rude kind of press, and subjected to sufficient pressure to cause the tallow to ooze out. This is again melted, and then poured into tubs smeared with mud, to prevent it adhering to the sides. When cold it is quite white, tasteless, very hard, and ready for market. It is sent to market in masses of about eighty pounds, generally realizing about five cents per pound. An oil, worth about three cents per pound, is obtained from the kernels of the nuts. This is used for burning in lamps, also for several purposes in the arts, and is supposed to have the virtue of changing grey hair to black ; therefore it has a place in the Chinese pharmacopoeia. Eucomis Culture. — Ignoramus. — Give them liberal supplies of weak manure- water now that their flower-spikes are pushing up, and keep close to the glass, with plenty of air. After the beauty of the flowers is past, gradually dry them off, and stack the pots on their sides until spring, and then shift into larger pots and place in coid frame. A compost of good turfy loam, mixed with a small proportion of manure or leaf-mould, will giow them to perfection. To increase the number of plants, simply separate the bulbs. Propagating Bedding Geuaniums. — TV. TV. TV. — All these strike best in an outdoor border. It is a mistake to keep them coddled in frames, as is frequently done, both by amateurs and professionals. Dig the border, and then tread it, to enable you to fix the cuttings firmly, and then dibble them in about two inches apart each way. "When the young roots are about an inch in length, take them up, and pot singly in three-inch pots, if you have room to house them in that way. If not, put three in each pot, and pot off singly in the spring. It is a bad plan to let the cuttings grow too much before taking up and potting, as they then feel the shift and experieuce a severe check. Guard against over-watering in the winter, and in the cutting-bed only give sufficient to prevent the leaves flagging. A sunny border is preferable, and no shading is required. Striking Bedding Plants. — An Amateur. — The sooner you set about getting up a stock of bedding plants for next year the better, as they will now root freely in a cold frame, and leave plenty of time for them to get strong and well hardened by winter. It is a matter of indifference whether you use pots or pans ; in either case let them be well drained and filled with light soil mixed witli a liberal proportion of sand, and a thin layer of sand on the top. This done, insert the cuttings, give them a sprinkle, and place the pots in a cold frame. Shade from the sun until they callus and keep close. The frame must be aired sufficiently to prevent the atmos- phere becoming stagnant. A little observation will show how much air is necessary, and remember that the lights must not be opened wide enough to cause the foliage to droop. Rapid Production of Sea Kale. — R. N. B. — There is not the least occasion to occupy a plot of ground with sea kale beyond one season in order to have fine heads for forcing or to cut from in the open ground. If you will follow our advice to the letter, the luxury of sea kale will cost you next to nothing. You will have plenty of time to think about it, because the planting we shall recommend should be done m March. Prepare by deep digging and abundant manuring a sufficient extent of ground — this must be well done ; the ground must be rich enough to grow cauli- flowers, and must be well broken up. Good stable manure is the best possible material wherewith to enrich the bed, and if it is not very rotten all the better — in fact, it may be quite green. Get some sea kale roots that have been forced, or obtain some freshly dug from a plantation with all the lesser roots, such as we may call the tails or thongs attached to them. It the lesser roots have been removed so that short club-like stumps only remain, they will not answer so well, because we are to depend upon these tails from plants, unless roots with tails attached are quite beyond our reach. Prepare a sufficient number of what we shall now call thongs, from these thin 256 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. tails ; each thong should be three or four inches long, and as thick as a common lead pencil, or nearly so. Plant these thongs (top end up, of course) in nrtvs, with the aid of a thin stick for a dibber. The rows should be two feet apart and the thongs one foot apart in the row. In planting, take care the holes are not made too large; let the top of the cutting or thong he about an inch below the surface, and the earth ■ closed in firmly and neatly. In a very short time little purple sprouts will appear, and perhaps a lot of weeds as well. Hoe the ground between them carefully twice, to make the surface loose and kill down the weeds, and then leave the kale to grow in its own way; it will require no further care until required for forcing. When taken up in November the crop will consist of fine roots, as good as are commonly sold as three- year-old kale at 12s. to 15*. a hundred. At all events we obtain fine roots with full crowns by this system of cultivation, and have given up the use of seed entirely. We destroy all except such thongs as are required for the next crop as soon as forcing is over, and we take the precaution to cut off and store away in dry earth in a shed a sufficient number of thongs before commencing to force any, but thongs from forced roots answer very well if no others can be got. If you cannot obtain thongs, your next best plan will be to make cuttings from the thick portion of the roots. Cut the roots into lengths of two or three inches each, and plant them right way up as advised for thongs, but take care in future years to grow from thongs only. Ou the management of seed and all the routine of forcing, etc., etc., we have on former occasions given abundant information. It is one of the most profitable vegetables that can be grown in a garden if liberally treated, but perhaps not profitable if badly grown. Your best way to begin will be to buy a lot of freshly dug roots in November or December next, which store in dry earth until you intend to force them. The Bog Pimpernel. — On occasion of visiting the College Botanic Gardens lately (says a writer in the Irish Farmers' Gazette), and passing through the cool conservatory, in which there are many interesting plants, our attention was at once arrested and fixed on two — a palm and a Dracana— not exactly on their own account, but by reason of the beauty with which our little Anagallis tenella clothed the surface and sides of the pots in which they grew. The pots were large — one, indeed, of the largest size — and the surface of the soil in hoth was cushioned with, and their sides beautifully draped and almost hidden by its very long thread-like stems that dropped perpendicularly from the rims. Each of these stems was prettily strung with its double row of round head-like leaflets, and glistening for nearly half its length to the point with its exquisite little flowers; numbers fully expanded, and others, perhaps not less beautiful, in the bud. We may remark here, in passing, that pretty as are the flowers to the naked eye, they are still more so under the lens. The delicate transparent wool-like processes that surround and enclose the anthers are specially deserving of examination, as, instead of being the simple hairs they appear, the glass shows their beautifully jointed or necklace-like structure. Mr. Bain informed us that the Anagallis was not grown in these pots with any special preparation or cultural care, with a view to increasing its vigour and development. A patch or two of it had been merely planted in these pots, together with an occasional plant of another of our loveliest wildings, Pinguicula grandiflora, to have at hand for botanical purposes. We should therefore apprehend that, treated specially, it would he perhaps even more effective. At all events, no one could look on it as growing in the College Garden and not admit that in it all have at baud one of the prettiest and most effective little things possible for growing, suspended or otherwise. To keep it well supplied with moisture from below would, of cour-e, he always necessary. The little Campanula hederacea we also noticed growing in other pots, and its elegant appearance, apart from the consideration of its being one of the many interesting plants our country calls her own, and perhaps from agreeable associations connected with its native haunts, at once suggested it as one of the prettiest and most interesting things possible for a hanging basket. I THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. SEPTEMBER, 18 6 0 AZALEAS. BY GEORGE GORDON. (With Figure of Eeinc Marie Henriette.) |HE beautiful variety selected for figuring in the present number is one of a fine batch of continental Azaleas introduced to public notice, during the past season, by Mr. Turner, of Slough, who is well known to be one of the best azalea growers in this or any other country. It may perhaps be considered unnecessary to say anything about the cultural requirements of azaleas, because they are now so gene- rally grown by all classes of cultivators; but it must not be for- gotten that hundreds of growers are by no means so successful in handling them as could be desired. They will stand a large amount of rough usage without being actually killed ; but the fact of there being a vast difference between plants in a healthy, robust condi- tion, and others half dead, must not be lost sight of. To grow them well, they must have very careful attention in all stages of their existence, and not be drowned with water at one time, and dried up at another. A stock can be easily propagated, either by cuttings or grafting, by those possessing the requisite skill and appliances, in the shape of a close propagating-case and a brisk bottom-heat ; but beyond saying that wood in a half- ripe condition is best for propa- gating purposes, we shall pass this part of the subject by. It is by far the best plan to go to a nursery, where clean, healthy stuff can be had, and buy in a few stout, bushy little plants in five-inch pots, for they can be had for a mere trifle. Early in spring is the best season for purchase, as the whole growing season is before them. AVhen the plants come to hand, examine them carefully, and if they are infested with thrip, immerse them in a solution of Fowler's Insecticide twice, or three times if required ; or place them in a frame, and give them two doses of tobacco-smoke. Keeping the VOL. iv. — ko. ix. 17 258 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. foliage free from insect pests is an important matter, for when allowed to get smothered with thrip or any other pest, it is simply impossible to have a healthy growth. This done, place in the green- house until the bloom is past its best, and then repot. Large shifts are not required ; but extra large and vigorous plants may be trans- ferred to eight-inch pots ; but the principal part of the stock will be better in six-inch size. Place in the bottom of each pot a layer of medium-sized crocks, and cover them with a layer of the roughest portion of the compost. This done, turn out of the pots, remove the old crocks, and loosen the roots round the outside of the ball carefully with a piece of stick with a blunt point. This enables the roots to strike more freely into the fresh soil. When plants that have become pot-bound are shifted without loosening the outside roots, it is by no means unusual to find scarcely any roots in the fresh stuff twelve months afterwards. Firm potting is also an essential feature ; and the soil must be rammed in as firm as possi- ble with the potting-stick, or the water will run through it and leave the old ball quite dry. Some growers prefer peat and sand alone ; but equal proportions of silky loam, full of fibre, and fibrous peat, mixed with about a sixth part of sharp silver sand, is by far the best compost yet known. Peat alone is too poor, and turns sour too soon for azaleas. Azaleas are strictly greenhouse plants, but they receive immense benefit from the assistance of a genial growing temperature when making their growth in the spring. When the stock is fresh potted, place it in a temperature of about 65°, and maintain a healthy, growing atmosphere by frequently sprinkling the paths and stages; also syringe overhead lightly morning and afternoon. Water sparingly, because the roots are too much deranged to take up a large supply ; and, to keep up the balance, the evaporation must be checked in the manner pointed out above. Sufficient, however, must be applied at each watering to reacli to the bottom of the ball. Hundreds of azaleas are killed annually through improper watering, for they are remarkably impatient of being tampered with at the roots. It is a very common practice to give just sufficient to wet the soil to a depth of three or four inches below the surface, without troubling to ascertain whether the lower portion is wetted or not. When once the lower part of the ball gets dust-dry, it is no easy task to moisten it without dipping it into a vessel of water. When any of the plants look sickly, or evince any flaccidity in the leaves, and the soil is moist on the top, turn it out of the pot, and in nineteen in- stances out of twenty, the soil will be dust-dry at a few inches from the surface. The water should always run through the hole in the bottom of the pot after its application, and you should continue to fill up the space on the surface until it does. Guard against giving too much water at the roots, for that is as injurious as an insufficient supply. Give liberal ventilation as soon as the stock has recovered from the check received in repotting, and increase it as the growth pro- gresses. Although a genial growing atmosphere is essential to a healthy growth, it must not be kept too close, or the shoots will be THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 259 weak and long-jointed. When the growth is completed, harden off by opening the ventilators night and day, and then place out of doors, in a shady and rather sheltered position, until the middle or end of September. A light, airy greenhouse, with a temperature of 40' or 45', is all that is required during the winter months ; and give the treatment already advised during the following spring and summer. Good specimens can be, and are, grown without a taste of artificial heat, excepting what is necessary to keep the frost out ; but to grow them like the magnificent specimens staged at the Metropolitan exhibitions, the preceding directions must be strictly followed. When a nine-inch pot is reached, a shift once in two years will be quite often enough, unless large specimens are required at the earliest moment possible. Extra care will be requisite in watering during the second year, to prevent them suffering from drought, without being kept too wet. Water with rain-water at all times, excepting when making the growth the second year after a shift, and then water with weak liquid manure, made by steeping sheep or cow- manure in rain-water, and allowing a sufficient time to settle before using. With regard to training the specimens into shape, little need be said, as that must in a large measure be left in the hands of the cultivator. The pyramidal form is perhaps the best ; and take them in hand in a young state, for it is a difficult affair to get an old plant into shape after being allowed to grow wild for several years. The following twenty-four, in addition to the splendid variety figured, will form a good collection to begin with. They are all good, and if only six or twelve are wanted, select the most distinct colours : — B \autij of !■ rldn i. — White, beautifully spotted with carmine. Carl Petzold. — Dark carmine, flowers large, fine shape, and freely produced. Chelsonii. — Bright orange-scarlet, fine form and substance. Comte de Hainaulf. — Salmon-pink, spotted with ci'imson on upper segments ; one of the best of the semi-doubles. Criterion. — Bright salmon-pink, with white margin; upper segments spotted with lake. Due a VArernberg. — Salmon, flaked with lake, and white margin. Dug de Nassau. — Hich rose purple, large, and of first-class quality. Duchesse Adelaide de Nassau. — Fine scarlet, shaded with rose ; top segments tinged with violet. Dtoile de Gaud. — Pale salmon, with broad white margin. Extranet. — Rose, shaded with violet ; in every way first-rate. Flower of the Day. — White, beautifully striped with rose ; the best in its colour. Guillaume III. — Light salmon, prettily spotted ; flowers large, and of good form. Iveryana Improved. — White, striped with rose ; fine and distinct, Le Lion de Flandre. — Fine dark salmon ; flowers large, and freely produced. 260 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Lizzie. — "White ; beautifully flaked and striped with bright carmine. Madame Ambroise Versclwffelt. — Bright salmon, flaked with lake, and finely spotted. Perry ana. — Very deep orange-scarlet ; fiue. President Clayes. — Salmon, shaded with orange ; spotted with crimson, and white margin. President Humann. — Eich rose ; fine form and substance. Peine des Poses. — Hose-purple ; large and stout. Sinensis. — Dark yellow, novel and effective. Stanley ana. — Deep rosy- scarlet ; first-rate in every way. Stella. — liich orange-scarlet : spotted with lake on top segments. Vesuvius. — Bright orange scarlet, with purple glow on top seg- ments. Virginalis. — Pure white ; crisped round the margin ; fine form and substance. THE LADIES' GARDEN.— No. VIII. BY J. C. CLABKE, Head Gardener at Cotkelston House, Taunton. CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES. pIESE once popular flowers are again rising in favour, and our lady readers will consult their own interest if they will take them in hand for earnest cultivation. They constitute an important feature in any garden where they are properly cared for. We have had occasion for regret at their very near annihilation from our gardens ; let us, there- fore, hail with delight the hope that is held out to us in the superior manner in which they have been exhibited, in some few instances, at different flower-shows this season. Surely this should be the signal for a considerable reaction in their favour. Be that as it may, I cannot err in recommending them to the notice of my readers, nor can they make a mistake by spiritedly taking up their cultivation, for they are neither expensive to buy, nor difficult to keep and multiply. Moreover, they will adapt themselves to almost any kind of soil, except a very stiff cold clay ; in that they are liable to die away in the winter. The best way to deal with them in very light soils is to mix up some loam with the natural soil of the place. In any natural loamy soils they will take care of themselves ; in stiff" clay soil, something of a lighter texture, such as leaf-soil, rotten turves, and coarse sand, should be mixed up with it on the spot where they are to stand. Those who want a display for next year should secure their plants this month, and plant them out at once, seeing that they do not suffer for the want of water afterwards until they are established. They may either be planted in beds or mixed borders ; the borders are undoubtedly the places for them. They are usually sold in pairs, and really good kinds may be bought at less than sixpence each. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 261 When once a stock is secured, it is no difficult matter to keep it up, for they are easily increased either by layers or cuttings. Layers are the best, if they are laid at the end of July, as then they make sufficient roots to be removed about the middle of September, "which gives them time to gain strength before winter. If handled with reasonable care, they will produce a fine bloom the next year. When I depend on young plants of this kind, I put out three in each clump, at six inches apart, and obtain thereby a good show of bloom the first year. The next autumn one plant is taken away if they are too thick. Striking them from cuttings is an easy way to get up a stock, if they are put in fine sandy soil, and sheltered with a hand-light. The season to take cuttings is the same as for layering ; but I do not like cuttings, for although they will do to plant out the following spring, they do not flower well. I find I get the best plants by planting them out for the first summer in a border in the kitchen garden, and pinch out the rising flower-stems soon after they are visible, so that they have nothing to do but grow, which they do very nicely, and make fine plants by the autumn, when they are transferred to the mixed borders. If you want to speculate on the chance of raising new varieties, there is the plan of raising them from seed, which is a very easy affair so far as their management is concerned, and as some really good useful border kinds may be raised this way, from a packet of seed that may be purchased for three or four shillings, there really is no excuse why they should not adorn every lady's garden. They are not only beautiful in colour and markings, but they are very fragrant. Moreover, they are not only gay in the borders, but they are the flowers above all others that most ladies like for toilet and other tastefully-arranged decorations. To raise them from seed, it is best to sow the seed with a very thin covering of soil under glass in April, in pans four inches deep. These should be kept shaded for the first fortnight, and as the seedlings appear, they should be gradually inured to sun and air, and in June planted out in the open grounds. If there is not a convenient spot in which to prove them, whether they are worth keeping or not, they should be put out in the borders about four seedlings in a clump, so that when they flower, the worst kinds may be weeded out directly they show their true characters. But the best plan, if at all possible, is to secure a small spot in the kitchen garden to prove them, and then choose the best as they flower for stock, and increase them from either cuttings or layers, whichever way of propagation is considered best for each individual case. I have, in my time, raised many very good flowers of both carnations and picotees from seed from continental sources, and I have this year seen a superb lot of double flowers raised from seed from the same source. They were good enough to decorate any flower garden. However, on that score, I trust I have said enough to show that this once popular flower is deserving of more extended cultivation, and eminently adapted for the ladies' garden. As regards further matters of cultivation, I must now remark 2G2 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. that, to show their true characters correctly, they must be neatly and carefully staked with sticks aud ties, or their beauty is uot shown, and furthermore, all decayed and dying flowers should be picked oif, or they detract considerably from the beauty of those opening, to say nothing of how much real sustenance they rob the younger flowers of. To show their value as cut flowers, I may remark that, more than a week ago, a friend gave me some buds quite un- opened attached to others that were fully expanded. At the time of writing, those buds, after a week's immersion in water, have opened beautifully on my writing-table ; which proves that our lady readers may send to any distance in the three kingdoms perfectly-formed buds of these lovely flowers that will not fail to unfold their fragrant petals in the course of a week from the time they are severed from the parent stem, if they are kept in water, and have the amount of fresh air common to a sitting-room at this time of year. ROSES FEOM ATJTUMX CUTTINGS. TJRIJS'Gr the years 1860 and 1861, the cultivation of the rose was made a special feature of in the Elobal AYokld. The interest that was aroused amongst rosarians by the publication in those papers of our doctrines of rose- growing, led to inquiries for a systematic treatise, and the " Rose Book " followed. This work has had such an extensive circulation, that we might have supposed the floral public had, by this time, mastered every detail of the enchanting pastime of propa- gating roses. But no ; scarce a week passes in which we do not receive some half-dozen letters on the subject, mostly, of course, from amateurs who have not made themselves possessors of the "Rose Book," many of them, no doubt, being beginners. AVe return, therefore, to this subject, not for the purpose of saying so much about roses, that our readers will at last be confused, and scarcely know whether they are on their heads or their heels, but to measure out little doses of practical instruction on the various methods of multiplying roses. Well, here is autumn once more, and we will tell our friends how to make roses by the dozen, hundred, thousand, million, if they like, by the easiest process imaginable. Erepare a piece of ground in a sheltered spot — if the soil is light and sandy, all the better. All it requires to render it'fit for the pur- pose is a good digging, and the incorporation of leaf-mould and sand if the texture of the staple is at all stubborn. Make the plot ready now, and leave it untouched until about the 20th, then begin to make cuttings and plant them on the prepared plot. To prepare the cuttings properly is a matter of the utmost importance, for every cutting that is not in proper condition will perish. Little soft bits of green wood are of no use at all. Cut from the rose trees plenty of long stout shoots of this year's growth and of last year's growth, but take none that are older than the second year, and none of this season except such as are hard and firm. Cut these shoots THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 263 into lengths of six to nine inches ; there is no occasion to cut close under a joint because the wood between the joints will root as freely as the joints themselves. Remove as many of the lower leaves as will enable you to plant the cuttings half their length deep. Plant them in rows a foot apart, and about four inches asunder in the rows. When planted tread the ground firm between the rows, and the work is done. In case the weather should be unfavourable for operations at the time advised for the first planting, seize the first opportunity that occurs afterwards. Cuttings may be put in from the 20th of Sep- tember until the end of November, but the earlier the better after September is out, as owing to the warmth of the soil, the formation of a callus takes place quickly, and this is the first stage of the rooting process. A severe winter will kill a great many of the cuttings, and some will die in a mild winter, or in the following spring. Nevertheless, by this offhand mode of procedure, you may reasonably expect seventy-five per cent, of the cuttings to become plants, provided only they are such cuttings as are advised for the purpose. Sprin- kling dry hay or straw over the plantation during sharp frost, will be some protection. Our rule has been, however, to allow them to take their chance of all weathers, and we have raised thousands of roses in this simple way. There is greater certainty when beds are made up in frames, and this advantage also; that softer wood may be used. Now it is obviously an economy of the shoots removed to plant all the hardest and stoutest cuttings in the open quarters, and all the softer ones and the tops in frames. The whole plantation should be allowed one season's growth before being disturbed, to keep down weeds being the only important part of the management. In the autumn they should all be care- fully lifted and planted out to grow in well manured ground. Very many will bloom in the first season, that is to say, while in the cutting bed, but all will bloom the second, and from thenceforth will rapidly increase in size and value. S. H. HYACINTHS FOR EXHIBITION AND HOME DECORATION. lULBS of all kinds have been under experiment here for several years past. We grow entire collections of the popular kinds, and make notes upon them when they are in flower, using them with batches of certain kinds that are particularly well adapted for the purpose, in the "plunging system," which is the hungriest system of gar- dening ever thought of, and affords the cultivator no rest either by day or night. Noting how much certain kinds differed in colour at exhibitions, and in our own specimens, I set to work to discover the cause, and we grew a certain number of bulbs of certain varieties, * 264 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. the characters of which were matters of peculiar interest, and made records of all the particulars connected therewith. In such a (ase as the production of a small spike, or the refusal of the flowers to assume their proper colour, the cultivator may reasonahly ask him- self if his treatment has been right. It is very certain that when we buy the bulbs, the flowers are already formed, and stored up within them, and as cultivators our business must be to develop those embryos. As a matter of course, bad management results in bad development ; but if the flowers are not properly formed in the heart of the bulb, it is a matter of impossibility for the ablest cultivator to develop them satisfactorily. I have seen, in places noted for skilful treatment of these bulbs, samples of the choicer and more expensive kinds, quite unfit for show ; some of the pink and scarlet kinds persist in retaining green tips, until they are too old to be passable. Sometimes they come out in a pale washy tint, instead of the rich hues for which they are prized. The result of many observations tended to establish as a rule that density is the safest test of the quality of bulbs. We may have heavy bulbs that are soft and worthless ; but if a bulb is as hard as flint and as heavy as lead, you have but to treat it properly and you may be sure of splendid flowers. A good average bulb of almost any kind will weigh 3 ounces, but varieties differ, and some produce small ugly bulbs from which excellent spikes may be obtained. The average weight of cheap bulbs, such as we buy by the hundred for the plunging system, is 2| ounces, but these never produce spikes of more than an average goodness, though good enough for outdoor work. If a selection were to be made for exhibition purposes, the best mode of proceeding would be, first, to pick out all the large hard bulbs from a bag of a given kind, and then weigh them against each other till the very heaviest were obtained ; and if the selection were made from a first-rate stock, these bulbs would range from 3 o ounces to 4-o- ounces, and to exceed the last figure would be a rare occur- rence. Yet there are bulbs in the market ranging over 5 ounces, and whoever can obtain them may expect to grow such trusses as we see in the best twelves and twenty-fours at the London spring exhibitions. In potting hyacinths the stuff should consist of full one-half of fat rotten dung. It is the want of food too often which mars the great spike that the Dutchman has crammed into the big bulb of four or five ounces. To pot early is of as much importance as to pot well, for the secret of success is to prolong the growth over as large a space of time as possible. To pot late, and to force early, is therefore very bad practice. Early potting insures plenty of roots before the crown begins to grow, and with plenty of roots, dumpi- ness is impossible, and the chances are really in favour of a stout pillar of the proper length, and bells fully developed in size, colour, and fragrance. Some years ago I knocked over the ridiculous practice of putting paper caps over hyacinth spikes to draw them up, by showing that pushing was preferable to drawing, and that reluctance of the spike to rise could be cured by bottom-heat, and could not be satisfactorily cured in any other way. Many of the THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 265 complaints that correspondents send to editors of horticultural journals on the subject of dumpy hyacinths, are made in too much haste. Many a bulb that threatens to be dumpy, will, if let alone, make a spike of proper length and substance, without a night-cap or a foot-warmer. It will be observed that the crown sometimes goes ahead of the roots. Being insufficiently nourished, its growth is arrested, and the spike remains all of a heap in the midst of some half-dozen short poverty-struck leaves. If such a plant were placed on a tank or in a tan-bed at from 60° to 70°, the stimulus given to the roots would soon have its effect on the leaves and the spike, but very often, if left alone, the roots already pushing will at last over- take the leaves, and the balance being restored the spike will rise, and before the bells are all out, will have reasonable dimensions. Many a time have I picked out a dozen or two of the dumpy sort, and put them altogether on a shelf near the glass, and left them to their fate, and at least nine out of every ten turned out right in the end, and proved as useful as those which behaved well from the first. To ascertain the cause of dumpiness is a simple matter enough. Tou have but to turn out the bulb, and you will find that it has but a few miserable roots an inch or so long, or perhaps is cankered at the base, and making no roots at all. Now a paper cap is no cure for such a state of things ; but bottom-heat, if there is simply reluctance to make roots, and no canker, will as certainly set the matter to rights as the needle will point to the pole, or the water find its level. The subject of watering is of no less importance than the manner and time of potting. If the stuff is reasonably moist when the bulbs are potted, there need be no water given at all. If they are plunged out of doors, and covered, as much water as they require will be conveyed to them by the winter rains. We suppose our Stoke New- ington practices are the best that can be, and the stuff we plunge the pots in is cocoanut-fibre, wmich is the cleanest and most com- fortable of plunging materials ever used. When removed from the plunge-bed, it is seldom they need be watered. But after a little while, having stood on the floor of the house to acquire a healthy green hue, we put them near the glass, and tben regular watering becomes a matter of necessity. Now to help out all your picked bulbs, use Standen's manure ; it is perfectly safe and effectual to intensify colour, and swell the pillar and the bells to their fullest size. It must not be used till the roots begin to peep through the bottoms of the pots, which they soon do if they are properly treated. Then spread about a teaspoonful on the surface of the soil in the pots, and in watering take care to wash it in ; a careless operator will take care to wash it out ; and " should this meet the eye " of any amateur not accustomed to practical operations, the hint may be useful, that if the finger is placed upon the spout of the Avater-pot, the stream may be regulated to a nicety. Hyacinths may have two doses of Standen's manure, and the best way is to use it dry, powdered on the soil ; this is far preferable to any liquid manure, because only a portion is dissolved at each watering, and the best results of such food are obtained by giving it weak and often. 266 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Another very important matter, especially in respect of exhibi- tion hyacinths, is the tying of them. The white and green sticks in common use are hideous and mischievous, and yet it is with such things that amateurs invariably disfigure the specimens they send to exhibitions. What applies to an exhibition applies also to the deco- ration of the conservatory, and even to the making-up of a bed or border instantaneously by the plunging system. "We must have neatness, and the support to the spike ought to be invisible, or nearly so. Now, to make effectual invisible supports is one of the simplest matters in the world, and in the slack time now before us all, hyacinth-growers have an opportunity of making them ready. Common iron wire Te-inch thick, or if only |-inch thick answers admirably, and the mode of preparing the supports is to cut the wire to suitable lengths, and bend each so that it will go down beside the bulb, and after passing over its upper surface, resume the perpen- dicular, and by carefully applying it to the stem in and amongst the flowers, afford a sufficient support to preserve it upright and firm. Experience has long since taught me that there is only one sure and certain way of securing a number of flowers or bulbs in the same pot or basket, and that is to pot them after the flowers have acquired colour. All hyacinths are potted singly here, the cheap small bulbs in common 60-size pots, with one small crock only, and as much rich stuff as can be crammed in for the feeding of the bulb. I flowered a whole set of early tulips separately in 60-size pots last year, and they turned out quite equal to our best batches of two or three each in 48-size. "With a lot of bulbs in flower, all singly and in small pots, groups may be made in baskets, beds, trophies — in any way, in fact, which requires the spikes to be pretty uniform in size and character, because they can be selected to fit. But to have several in the same pot all equally balanced, I repeat they must be potted after the}" come into flower, and thereby hangs a little tale. You go to Covent Garden Market, in February or March, and you will see Van Thols and other kinds of tulips, three in a pot, all as equal as if turned out of a mould and coloured by hand. Tou go home and have a look at your five hundred (say) of the same sorts, all potted three in a pot, and what do you see ? I ask the question a second time, What do you see ? Pot No. 1 has two pushing nicely, and a third scarcely moving. Pot No. 2 has one pushing ahead of the other two, so that it will be quite past before they come into bloom. Pot No. 3 shows three stages of progress — one flower is fully ex- panded, another is just showing colour, and the third is barely peeping. The remedy is as simple as working logarithms, and it is, as before remarked, to pot them after the blooms have advanced to nearly the point of expansion, but to provide for it in time, arrange- ments must be made now to start them in heds, in pits, frames, or greenhouses. Make up a bed of nice turfy loam with a little manure added, plant the bulbs all over it pretty thick, and cover with leaf- soil or cocoanut-fibre, and wait the issue. In due time the flowers will appear — two or three in one spot, half-a-dozen in another, here one, there two, and so on throughout the bed. Lift them out care- fully, and pot them to match, and your task is done, whether you THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 267 wish to decorate a conservatory or make a fortune in the market. Even in cocoanut dust alone early tulips do very well if it is intended to sell or destroy the bulbs. If it is intended to keep them, the stuff must be fibry loam with manure added. Tulips do better this way than any other bulbs, but hyacinths and crocuses are amenable to the treatment ; and where effect is everything, and the ultimate value of the bulbs nothing, this may be considered a royal road to success. For the embellishment of our tables and windows, we use the beautiful hyacinth glasses sold by Messrs. Claudet and Houghton, of High Holborn, who have bought the patent or registration of Mr. Tye, of Birmiugham, and are now the sole manufacturers of these things. I can understand how much pleasure is derivable from the cultivation of hyacinths in glasses, for where plant-growing is not largely practised, such practice is full of entertainment. But we are not in need of such amusements, and having always more draw- iug-room plants and flowers than can be put to use, never put hyacinths in glasses. But suppose a wedding or christening, or Bohea celebration, or snug party of ten to spoil a dish of seakale and accompaniments. In such a case, if it is hyacinth season, I bring forth my glasses and put some water in them. Next I look up a few of the very best pot specimens we have, knock them out, shake off' the soil, wash the roots, and quietly drop them into the glasses. People then say, " We never saw such hyacinths in glasses ; however do you manage it ? " I have hitherto replied, " Tell you some day — pass the claret." So I tell it now, fro lono publico, and what a simple story it is as compared with the glory of the subject. S. H. CATS, IN CONNECTION WITH THE GAEDENESQUE. BY A TOWN AHATEUB. READFUL subject ! how shall it be dealt with in a way to instruct and not offend? Not being by nature a cat-hater, it cannot be alleged of me that I have no feeling for the feline race ; yet hatred of cats has become associated with thoughts of gardening, because of the per- sistent way the cats wage war against my out-door pleasures. Would the reader endure a categorical catalogue of my catastrophes — of glass smashed, plants torn up by the roots, of flower-beds desecrated by their nocturnal gambols, of blanks here, there, and everywhere, in addition to the blank on my face through the havoc of the grim grimalkins? lam so sure that it would be followed by catalepsy for me to tell the tale of a eat that plagued me this very week, that it is not likely I shall ever reveal the whole of my experience ; indeed, I must already appear to be using catachrestical language, as it instead of an old torn mowking and mewing and caterwauling, he should put on spectacles and gravely talk Greek. No ; fear not I will afflict you with my whole mind upon the subject, but just allow me to give vou a few hints. 268 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. First as to glass houses, etc., etc. The first house I ever built had a nearly flat roof. It suited admirably both for the plants within and the cats without. The cats used to scamper over it quite easily, and now and then one would fall through and run about amongst my geraniums to find a place to get out again ; and at last, made desperate with the prospect of permanent imprisonment, make a place of exit by smashing of a lot of glass. I one day saw a huge torn cat that I knew to be guilty of nibbling my carnations, and other feats of destructiveness, take up his seat peaceably in the sun on the edge of a frame in front of my low roofed greenhouse. Pre- sently two or three more cats appeared on the top of the house together, like a little party assembling by agreement. The huge torn made a spring on to the roof, and joined them, and they com- menced on my glass some extraordinary gambols. " This must be put a stop to," says I to myself, and I ran towards the house, threw up my hand, and uttered the "sheesh," Avhich people usually employ to scare cats away. They all bolted except one, and that was the very torn aforesaid, for as ill-luck would have it, he had thrust one of his legs through a hole in the glass, and began to struggle terribly to extricate it. In another moment he went clean through into the midst of my melons and geraniums. I had the good sense (it was a wonder I had any sense, so scared was I at what might happen) to run instantly and open the door. Confound him ! instead of seeing that escape was easy, he commenced leaping up frantically in order to get out the same way that he came in. Up and down- — up and down he went, as if madness had seized him. Every time he leaped he smashed the glass with his head ; every time he came down the glass rattled about him, and terrified him more. Oh, it was an awful scene ! I went along the front of the house, and looked down into it in order to frighten him out, but he was too bewildered either to see me making faces at him from without, or the door standing open for his escape. Presently he made another leap under my very eyes, and I felt the splinters of glass fly fast in my face, and next instant saw him run through the whole body of plants that stood on the front stage, scattering them on all sides, and joy ! joy ! he bolted out and was gone ! There was a track of blood in the course he pursued, and that is all I know as to extent of his suffer- ings, for I never saw him again. Now, strange to say, I do not know what is the maximum of slope which a cat can run upon ; if I did, a rule might be given to the effect — never have the roof of a glass- house below an angle of — . It strikes me that a roof at forty- five degrees would be too steep for cats ; however, I have mine always sharper than 45°. Never while I live in town, will I again build a greenhouse or a pit with a roof over which cats can perambulate. If I must have a nearly flat roof, I will protect it with wire netting, and surround it with palisades of spikes. They shall be tickled in the toes as badly as if put upon hot bricks ere they shall enjoy a war-dance on my glass again. Cats make runs, and appear to give preference to the be3t flower- beds and borders for this purpose. When I find an alley cut through my plants by cats rushing along at night, I put in a lot of small THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 269 strong sharp sticks aslant, all manner of ways. Next night as they make a rush, their tender noses strike the pointed sticks, and they howl and run away. It has long been a rule with me to surround any plant I am very choice about with sticks put in aslant ; it is a golden preventive of destruction. Another means of keeping the place clear is to keep a sharp dog always loose, and train him to respect your plants. This may be done most easily ; my dog never steps across the box edging, or quits the proper path under any cir- cumstances. Now and then, perhaps, the dog may give chase, and make a splendid run amongst a lot of roses or verbenas, and cause you to doubt if this preventive is not as bad as the disease. But in the end, if the dog is kept in good training, the place will be pretty safe against cats, for they do not care to meet a dog that has a penchant for hunting them ; and, after all, a bad dog will never do so much harm in a garden as the dozens of cats that might infest it were the dog not there. Yet one more hint to lovers of flowers who are plagued by cats. Suppose you have such a bed of geraniums or of carnations as I could show you now ; the cats might assemble and have a scrimmage in the midst of it, and scatter the plants all over the place in the form of mincemeat any night in the season. I render such a misfortune impossible. First, I enclose the bed with a neat wire fence six inches high : though a cat could jump this easy enough, nevertheless, it is very likely no cat ever will. But before I plant the bed I stretch stout copper wire across it in five or six direc- tions, making the wire fast to the boundary fence. I used to lose a whole bed of pinks before adopting these measures, but have not lost one since. Probably the fence keeps them oft', and the wire is not wanted. Certainly a bed on grass looks exceedingly neat and finished with only these low wire fences, so there is no wrong done to the gardenesque by the procedure. Well, there is yet one more mode of action, that of banishment, to be practised as follows : — [This, the concluding paragraph of the essay, must not appear; we could not mar the pages of the Floral World by giving publicity to our correspondent's system of poisoning cats. Supposing, even, that indiscriminate killing of these animals were allowable (and of course it is not allowable, on grounds no less of common honesty than of humanity), the practice of placing poison within their reach might oftentimes lead to consequences of the most serious nature, such as every one of our readers will, on the instant, apprehend.— Ed. F. W.] A FEW GOOD BEDDEKS, NEW AND OLD. BT JOHN WALSH. i AST year I was permitted, in these pages, to say a word \ov two to my brother amateurs about the new bed- ding plants brought into public notice during the season. I have since heard from some of my friends that the notes I then offered have been extremely use- ful. Several of them request me to help them again in the same manner, which shall be the endeavour of this article. The Zonate Pelargoniums have so many hues and shades of 270 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. colour, that a parterre may be coloured very beautifully without a scrap of a plant belonging to any other genus ; therefore, I think we must give them the precedence. I do not profess to have tried all the sorts that have recently been put into commerce, and it is just possible that I shall pass by a few good varieties without notice. There has been an immense number of nosegay varieties offered as bedders ; but, with few exceptions, they have failed in realizing the descriptions of the vendors. One of the most striking exceptions is one named Baron, sent out by Mr. Mann, of Brent- wood. This is very similar in colour to Stella, but it has a more compact habit and closer truss, and id therefore to be preferred to it, being equally profuse in flowering. Waltham Seedling is one of the grandest nosegays in cultivation, although not very generallv known. The flowers are produced in tremendous trusses, and of ;i brilliant scarlet hue. My advice is, give up Stella and Cybister, and substitute these for them. Beaton's Orange Nosegay must also make way for Hibberd's Orange Nosegay, the latter being superior in size of flowers and truss, and intensity of colour, with the addi- tional advantage of having dark bluish leaves to bring out the rich orange hue, instead of the yellowish green leaves of Beaton's variety. Kentish Fire is another fine variety, with orange scarlet flowers, but quite distinct from either of the Orange Nosegays. The Pink Nosegays are no use for bedding, for the colour soon flies, and the flowers in consequence have a faded and washed-out appear- ance. I have not been able to test Fire King, a grand variety, with huge trusses of flowers of a magenta hue. If it is only half as good planted out as it is in pots, it will be a fine acquisition to the flower- garden. B. K. Bowleg is also a grand bedder of a crimson-scarlet hue. Turning to large-flowered varieties, the first that claims atten- tion is Thomas Moore. In this grand variety we have a true florist's flower in size, shape, and colour, with the dwarf habit and free- flowering qualities required in a bedder. The trusses are not large, if we compare them with some of the Nosegays ; but they are pro- duced in such tremendous profusion, that the beds have the appear- ance of being quite solid with bloom. Tristram Shandy is les3 refined than the preceding, but it is grand for ribbon borders ; be- sides having a compact free-flowering habit, the light scarlet flowers contrast well with the other varieties. It is very dwarf, and there- fore adapted for front lines. Bev. J. Dix is a good variety, rather old now, but little known. The colour is dark scarlet, and the flowers are of good form, and freely produced in large trusses. Lord Berby and Br. Bindley have both flowered with tolerable freedom this year, but they can hardly claim to rank as first-class bedders. The Bride is the name of a white-flowered variety, that will sweep Madame Vaucher, and other existing varieties of the same colour, out of cultivaion, as soon as it can be had in sufficient quantities. The flowers are pure white, of good shape, and produced freely. The foliage is neat and medium-sized, with narrow zone and fine habit. Excellent and Bucius still keep their exceptionally high character, for they have quite eclipsed all the old varieties, and THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN G-UIDE. 271 none of the new ones in the same shade of colour can touch them. None of the pink-flowered varieties equal Christine yet, excepting it be a little-known variety named Victoria, the trusses of which are large, the flowers finely shaped, and the colour bright and telling. There is nothing new amongst the gold and silver zonals for bedding ; none of the new varieties in the first-named section equal Mrs. Pollock when planted out. I have Sophia Dumaresque, Sophia Cusack, Lady Cullum, and several others contemporary with them, planted side by side ; but all fail in outstripping that good old variety in the splendour of the leafage. No advance has been made this year with the silver zonals, and Italia Unita is still the best bedder, though far from first-rate for that purpose, and inferior to the golden-edged varieties. There have been large additions made to the bronze zonal section lately, but a considerable number are comparatively useless for the open ground. Luna, Mrs. John Todd, Countess of Kellie, Mulberry Zone, Beaut i/ of llicrrdale, Duke of Edinburgh, Criterion, and Egyptian, Queen, will be a sufficient number for most gardens. Crystal Palace Gem and Golden Fleece are still the two best bedders with golden variegated leaves, the first-named being the best of the two. Golden Emperor and Gold Leaf are two very fine varieties with plain golden foliage, the second being, in my opinion, the best. Hibberd's Golden Banner is a real gem in its way, the leaves being round and flat, and of a clear lemon yellow, the plant growing freely, and soon covering the ground. In addition to the well-known old silver-edged or variegated varieties, the following are first-rate : — Flotver Queen, May Queen (Turner's), Princess Alexandra, Snowdrop (Goode). All have a fine free and compact habit, with broad pure white margins. Queen of Queens is a grand variety, little known, though it has been in commerce for several years now. I propagate all the geraniums in the same way. The cuttings are taken off early this month, and dibbled in thickly on a south border, and taken up and potted, three in a three-inch pot, as soon as the roots are about an inch in length. After being potted, they are placed in a frame with the lights drawn off night and day, until the weather gets too cold. They must not be wetted overhead, and only have just sufficient water to prevent the leaves flagging, up to the time of their being potted off singly in March. Some people were bold enough to assert that the calceolarias would be superseded by Viola lutea, and its large-flowered variety grandiflora ; but their anticipations have not as yet been realized. The Violas are no use for bedding ; they look very well through the early part of the summer, and then assume a weedy appearance, which is retained during the remaining part of the season. Calceo- laria Aurea floribunda is too uncertain to be of real service, and must give place to either Aurantia, 0 lib-ridge's Gem, or Gibsonii, all of which grow and flower well, where Aurea floribunda will scarcely exist. The three varieties bear such a close resemblance to each other that no more than one is required in the same garden. A cold frame is the best place for striking and wintering calceolarias. Make up 272 THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. a bed six inches in thickness, and cover with a layer of sand, and after pressing it firm, aud giving it a good watering to settle the soil, insert the cuttings two inches apart each way ; water sparingly, and give plenty of air after the cuttings are rooted. Here they remain until March, with sufficient good protection from frost ; and then a bed of good rich soil is made up in another frame, or under a temporary framework, where a mat can be thrown over when necessary, to pro- tect from frost and cold winds. Treated this way, the plants can be lifted and transferred to the beds, and there will not be one quarter the losses which happen to plants turned out of pots. Amongst miscellaneous bedders, a batch of Lobelia erinus pumila deserve notice, for they are invaluable for small beds ; all have a fine compact habit, and are wonderfully profuse in flowers. Grandiflora is the best variety with blue flowers. Distinction, rich rosy-red ; Fairy, French white ; aud Model, pure lilac, are all good in their several shades of colour. Lobelia speciosa alba, and L. speciosa Snoivdrift, are the purest white-flowered varieties of the speciosa habit yet introduced to public notice. They are, however, exactly alike, though raised simultaneously by two different firms. To preserve these named varieties true, they must be propagated by cuttings in the usual way. There has been a great outcry against verbenas ; but with deep digging, and adding a little manure to the beds in the spring, they do well enough with me. The best bedders are Nemesis, deep scarlet ; Crimson King, scarlet ; Purple King, purple ; King of Bed- ders, reddish crimson ; and La Grand Louie de Neige, white — this is by far the best white for bedding. I am disappointed in the new Coleus ; for, so far as my trials go, they are little or no use for bedding. Plants of several of the last batch, that were planted out late in June, began to grow towards the end of July, but a few cold days in the middle of August nipped them up, and they have at this moment the appearance of having been dipped in cold water. In a season like that of 1868 they might perhaps have done well ; but they cannot be depended upon. Having lately, by invitation from Mr. Hibberd, had the oppor- tunity of seeing his numerous collections, I am enabled to recommend a few of the new Coleus, which I selected in his experimental garden, where about fifty kinds were planted out and are doing pretty well. Princess of Wales is of a rich deep purplish red colour, very distinct ; Princess Royal, is a fine maroon, with margin of bright yellow ; Queen Victoria is bright maroon, shaded with carmine, the edges pale sulphur; Mefulgens, is black, a remarkably handsome plant ; Verschaffelti, the well known crimson leaved-kind, is invaluable. These five sorts are all I can recommend the amateur to buy with a view to bedding. If I had bought these only, probably my own experiences of them would have been more agreeable, but I happened to select a very bad lot through trust- ing to the puffing in the papers, which appears to have been pro- moted by the Royal Horticultural Society. A most beautiful bedding plant I saw in the experimental garden, which every one of our readers should jossess. It is a THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 273 variety of the well-known Abutilon striatum, the garden name of the plant being Abutilon Thompsoni. It forms a neat hush, with ample leafage, most richly painted with deep yellow and lively green. It was introduced by Messrs. Veitch and Son, and is nowr cheap. I have another new plant to introduce to notice, which 1 am certain will be a popular subject for years to come. It is a dwarf- growing Ageratum, named Imperial Dwarf. It grows about six inches in height, and has flowers the same colour as the old Mexi- canum ; it blooms very profusely, and will make a grand second row plant. It is still in the hands of Mr. W. Cliater, of Saffron Waldeu, but it is worth waiting for. The Heliotropium is not much appreciated, simply because the old common strong-growing variety with pale-coloured flowers is grown. Were such grand varieties as Beauty of the Boudoir, Miss Nightingale, and Lady Amhurst, grown in a few good places, we should soon witness their return to public favour. THE CULTURE OF STEPHANOTIS FLORIBUNDA. BY ROBERT OTTBRIDUE, Church "Walk Nursery, Stoke Newington. ^KIS is a lady's flower, par excellence, for nothing can equal it for bouquets and dressing up epergnes, and for all other uses to which cut flowers can be applied. It however is not grown so extensively as it should be, simply because the great body of amateurs imagine that to grow and flower it well a very strong heat is required. It will not do any good in an ordinary greenhouse temperature, because there would not be sufficient heat to enable the growth to be made early enough in the season to get well ripened before the autumn ; but it can be grown in a much lower temperature than is usually employed. In the first place secure a healthy plant in a 48-size pot early in March, and shift at once, if the pot is full of roots, into two sizes larger, and place in a temperature of 60° or 6-5". Train the young growth over the roof of the house. To get an abundance of flowers the wood must be exposed to the light, and training the growth to the roof affords the readiest means of effecting the desired object. If specimens are not required for exhibition, train the growth to the roof permanently ; otherwise, regulate the growth carefully to allow of its being taken down, and placed upon a trellis fixed in the pot, just before coming into flower. Many Stephanotis growers are afraid of the little trouble incurred in transferring the growth from one trellis to the other, and grow them upon the pot trellis entirely. A very little thought will show that, when the growth is huddled together upon so contracted a space, it is impossible to receive sufficient light and air to thoroughly mature the young wood. When the specimens are not required to be moved about, it is be.-t to train them on the roof altogether, as better growth is made, and VOL. IV.— KO. IX. 18 274 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. the flowers show to greater advantage. When portable specimens are grown, put them on the trellis some time in March, and leave them there until the flowers are past, and then return them to the roof. It is difficult, if not impossible, to say when the next shift will be required, in a case like this, where everything depends upon the progress each individual specimen makes, for it is no use to repot them before they are well rooted. With ordinary treatment they, however, will he in proper condition for repotting early in June. Use pots two sizes larger, and be very particular in having them properly drained, as this shift will have to carry them through the whole of the next year; and no stove plant is more impatient of having stagnant moisture or sour soil about the roots than the one we are now dealing with. A compost, consisting of equal parts fibrous peat, turfy loam, and rotten cow-dung, is the best that can possibly be had, when mixed with a sixth part of sharp silver-sand, or good drift-sand, washed clean. The peat and loam must be broken up roughly, and if it has been laid in a heap a few months previously to using, its value will be enhanced. A temperature of about GO0 is advised as desirable to begin with ; this must be continued to the end of the month, when a rise of 5" may be allowed. This will not necessitate an increase of fire- heat, as the sun will have gained sufficient strength to bring the temperature up to the desired height without artificial aid. This can go on until about the middle of May, when fire-heat can be dispensed with, excepting a little to warm the pipes in the evening, to maintain a comfortable warmth during the night ; but the night temperature always ought to be five or ten degrees lower than the warmth of the house during the day. . From the beginning of June until the end of August, no fire-heat whatever will be necessary, unless the summer happen to be wet and cold. The plants ought to be steadily settling down to rest after the commencement of September, and a temperature of 60" will be quite sufficient to keep them in health. If they are subjected to a greater warmth than that specified above, it will force them into a second growth, and do irreparable injury. During the winter, which we will suppose to begin in October, and end in March, 501 will be quite high enough ; and from that time onwards, the tem- perature of the respective seasons must be the same as I have already advised, so that it is not necessary to say anything farther about that part of the treatment. In the first Week of March of the second year, top-dress with the soil recommended above, and slightly increase the supply of water to the roots, when, with the aid of an occasional skiff from the syringe overhead, they will speedily start into growth. The pots into which they were shifted in June will carry them through this year ; but it will be well to shift into one size larger in the spring of the third year. Syringe regularly morning and afternoon throughout the grow- ing season, excepting when in bloom, as the water would, of course, soon spoil the flowers. When growing briskly, a somewhat liberal THE ELORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 275 supply of water will be necessary, but in the season of rest only give enough to keep the foliage plump and fresh; no manure water will be required the first year, but it will be of immense benefit to them if they are watered alternately with weak manure water, and clear soft water. "Water in which sheep-droppings have been steeped makes the best liquid manure with which I am acquainted, and is far more suitable for this purpose than stimulating manures like guano. ORCHARD-HOUSE MANAGEMENT. BY WILLIAM COLE, Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex. jjRTJIT-GrROWTNGr in pots is one of the greatest delusions ever palmed upon the horticultural community. The only persons who have derived any benefit from the adoption of the system are the nurserymen who sup- plied the trees. It appears incredible that men engaged in fruit-growing all their lives should expect amateurs, who are engaged in other ways during the day, and have, only an hour or so to devote to their gardens in the evening, to meet with much success in the pot culture of fruit trees. I am not writing this because I have not been able to secure crops from trees grown in pots, but because I know it requires more than double the skill and attention to get the same quantity of fruit from them than it does from trees planted out in a border. All stone fruits are remarkably sus- ceptible to changes and checks of any kind, especially in connection with the supply of moisture to the roots, and a tree when cramped in a pot, and growing freely, requires watering twice and sometimes three times a day. Yet this is the system that people with little knowledge, and still less time on their hands, have been advised to follow, as the one most likely to give them the most profitable results. There is yet another delusion in connection with orchard-houses that requires to be swept away. TJnheated houses have been advised for fruit-growing, but they are practically useless, even when the trees are planted out. When good crops can be had out of doors, fruit can generally be had in unheated houses ; but in seasons of total failure outside, like that of last spring, where is the fruit inside ? If it were possible to get returns of all the failures this year in unheated houses, I will undertake to say that they could be numbered by the thousand. Trees covered with glass come into flower a fortnight or month earlier than others out of doors, and as glass is such a capital conductor, they are exposed to the same degree of cold as trees out of doors, because the protection afforded by the glass is so slight that the temperature of the orchard-house in March would be no higher than the temperature out of doors in April. Consequently the trees derive little or no benefit from the protection of the glass. My impression is that good crops of peaches and nectarines can be had out of doors two seasons out of three, if the trees receive attention during the growing season, to 276 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. enable the wood to get thoroughly ripened ; and that with con- siderably less trouble then when under cover. Of course the trees must have protection from frost when in flower, and I am supposing walls to be in existence for training the trees to. Orchard-houses are valuable when put to their proper use, which I take to be the advancement of the crops to enable the cultivator to gather a month or so before the same kinds are ready out of doors. Unless the expense of putting down a service of hot- water pipes, or a flue can be spared, I should certainly say leave orchard-house building alone. Early in March or the last week in Febuary, when the trees are in flower, we frequently get dull cloudy weather, and without a little artificial warmth to disperse the damp stagnant atmosphere, and dry the flowers, it is impossible for the pollen to perform its allotted functions, and the flowers fall off, and the trees are barren in consequence. A small boiler and a flow and return four-inch pipe are quite sufficient for all ordinary sized houses. Apart from their ugliness and the space they take up, I would quite as soon have flues for this work as the most costly hot-water appa- ratus, although I have no desire to witness the return of the good old times we hear the representatives of the last century talk about. A span roof about fourteen feet in width is the best form that can be devised, and the length is a mere matter of taste. A house built with sashes and rafters is more expensive than one with a fixed roof, but it is double the value. Trees under glass require an immense amount of labour to keep them clean ; but if the lights are moveable and can be taken off in the early part of June, so as to expose the trees to the rains and evening dews, the labour of syringing and watering is considerably reduced. The fruit is also better flavoured. It would perhaps make a week or two's difference in the fruit reaching maturity, but even then it would be ripe before the outdoor crop. The help from the artificial heat in the spring would make a month or six weeks' difference at the beginning of June, and of course the trees would keep that much ahead through- out the remaining part of the season, besides, when ripening, having the advantage of the warm weather of the end of July and the beginning of August, instead of the cool and damp weather of September, and the early part of October. Allowing three feet for the path and the space consumed by the heating apparatus, room will be left for a five-feet border on each side. This will give ample room for one row of good trees in each. More could be squeezed in but it is not desirable. Remove the old soil to a depth of four feet, and place in the bottom a foot depth of brickbats for drainage, and, unless the subsoil is gravelly, lay down a drain of ordinary pipes to carry off the water after it has soaked through the topsoil, or the brickbats will be of little or no use. If good turfy loam can be obtained for the border, no manure must be added, but, if it happens to be poor or sandy, add one load of well-rotted manure to every six loads of soil. Tread the soil in linn, and after it has had time to settle, plant the trees at a distance of four feet apart. Plant early in October to give the trees time to get established before they are quite dormant. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 277 Select healthy pyramidal or bush trees, and stop them twice during the growing season ; each time at the fourth or fifth leaf frfcm the base of the shoot stopped. When stopped more than twice, the last growth is soft and watery, and has to be cut entirely away. The second growth can be cut back at the winter pruning, and all weak shoots not required thinned out. The trees must not be hurried into flower in the spring, but only have sufficient fire-heat to keep them warm and comfortable, and to dry up any dampness that may arise when they are in flower. Ventilate abundantly at all times when the weather will permit; and as apricots, cherries, and plums require more air at all times than the peaches and nectarines, the house ought to have a division in the centre to enable each fruit to receive the treatment most congenial to it. After they are in full leaf, syringe twice a day in bright sunny weather, and once when it is damp and cloudy, except when the fruit is ripening. It is also important to avoid the common practice of neglecting the trees after the crop is gathered, for when the foliage is allowed to get smothered with red spider, and in consequence fall off prematurelv, the buds are frequently not properly formed, and the result is a failure the following season. A WORD TO THOSE ABOUT TO PLANT. HE proper time for planting evergreen shrubs appears not to be well understood, for we see such work in pro- gress in the depth of winter, which is the worst time ; and few people think of planting in the moist warm days of autumn, which is the best time in all the year. Losses invariably occur amongst evergreens planted in winter, and frequently the dead trees are allowed to remain a whole season — ghastly objects in the midst of otherwise pleasing plantations, in the hope, we suppose, that they will come to life again. To be sure, they do not always die outright, and there is therefore the chance of a few shoots from the base if they are left alone ; but it requires the growth of many years to make trees of them again, and they do not rank equal in height and bulk with th«_ir companions till about half a man's lifetime has gone by. When evergreen shrubs are moved in September, the losses are reduced to a minimum, pro- vided the work is well done, and the trees push the next spring with the same vigour and freedom as those that have not been moved for years. For the planting of American shrubs, September and October are the best months in the whole year, yet this work is too often deferred till spring, and the trees are hurried into growth by the increasing temperature of the season ere their roots have made the least progress in the new soil they are planted in. In cases where extensive operations are in progress, the month of July is scarcely too soon for the planting of evergreen shrubs ; August is a perfectly safe time ; September and October are as safe, and more convenient ; and every month in the whole year is more or less objectionable. The question as to the best time to move hollies 278 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GLIDE. is frequently raised. This undoubtedly is the best time, or say from this date to the end of next mouth, but as we have moved hollies in the early part of May with such perfect success, we would make an exception in their favour except for this good reason, that in the event of a hot dry summer, hollies moved in May might not make a good start, for artificial watering, however carefully and constantly performed, is but a poor substitute for the warm rains and copious night dews which evergreens require for their well-doing, especially after having been transplanted. Nor is it needful to wait till November for the transplanting of deciduous trees. If there is any gain in convenience by lifting earlier, it may be done with as much safety in October as Novem- ber, though the trees may be full of leaves at the time. But we are not advocating the lifting of deciduous trees in November as a rule to be followed generally, but as a thing which may be done where it is desirable to plant evergreens and deciduous trees at one and the same time. Small trees of all kinds, in fact, and evergreens whether large or small, may be lifted now with greater safety than at any other time, and they will have the advantage of the autumnal rains and a genial warmth of the soil to help them in making roots in their new positions. S. H. STEELITZIA REGIN.E. HIS magnificent plant was introduced from the warm parts of the Cape of Good Hope about the year 1773, and named in honour of the royal house of Mecklenberg Strelitz and of the Queen of George the Third, and was, for some time after its introduction, confined to the famous botanical collection at Kew, where it flowered for the first time in this country, and found, as justly it might, many admirers, and became ultimately common in stoves ; but of late years it has become more scarce, and it is now sel- dom seen, and but few of those who possess it appear to know the modus operandi of culture, either in the production of its fine foliage or its spikes of gorgeous flowers, which, when cut and placed in water, will continue to expand from the spear-like sheath from six to eight blossoms in succession. Belonging to the natural order MusacEjE, it requires a genial, moist stove temperature, and plenty of water in the growing season, with a marked season of rest ; for in a cultural sense the necessity of ripening and resting the annual growth of this, as of all flowering plants, becomes apparent ; for, without due maturity being secured, it is vain, as experience will prove, to hope for blossoms. This strictly applies to the plant in question, and in no jslace has it been so successfully grown as at Cheam Park, Surrey, the residence of — Carr, Esq., whose clever gardener, Mr. Hey- ■wood, follows out the principle of growing and resting in the most marked manner. Having done this, his examples annually hear testimony to the fact that this noble family of plants are far more beautiful and useful than they are regarded by the present generation of gardeners. The plants at Cheam flower at least six months out of the twelve, and not even is the foliage of the Banana more noble than the leaves upon Mr. Heywood's specimens. His treatment is very simple, yet founded upon the principles which govern the physiology of the vege- table kingdom. The plants are potted in an admixture of peat, loam, and a little leaf-mould and sand, with the pot well and effectually drained. The plants are driven into growth immediately January is on the wane. When fairly started, they are liberally supplied with water, and the atmosphere kept, as it should be with all the members of the Musa family at a high temperature, and reeking with moisture. A hot pipe passing through a tank of water, which day and night imparts a moisture to the house by evaporation, is the most effectual agent of humidity. Immediately the plants cease to grow, moisture is to some extent withheld, and the plants kept THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 279 from becoming; too dry by frequent syringing. The hot suns of summer have the effect of consolidating the secretions, and myriads of spikes are thrown from the axils of the leaves in quick succession during the autumn and winter months. Nothing can exceed the beauty of those two lovely loyal colours, orange and blue, which are so admirably blended by nature, and which harmonize so well with the sea-green leaves, which average two feet by eighteen inches, seated upon handsome petioles, some two feet long, giving at all times a degree of nobleness to the em- bellishments of the stove which really do not pertain to many of the more recent and modern introductions. — J. Ransly Tanton, F.R.H.S., Epsom Nurseries. NEW PLANTS. |AGNOLTA CAMPBELLT1 {Flore des Sarres, t. 1282-5).— Magno- liacese. — A splendid deciduous hardy tree, bearing immense flowers of a delicate brilliant crimson externally, and a pile tint of rose within. It is a native of the Sikkim Himalaya, at 8000 to 10,000 feet elevation. Begonia Clarkei, Major T. Clarke's Begonia (Bot. Mag., t. 5675). — Very nearly related to B. Veitchi, but differing in its large opaque foliage, axillary peduncles, and deep rose- coloured flowers. A beautiful plant, requiring warm green- house cultivation. Oncidium phal.exopsis (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 416). — Orchidacese. A tine species, bearing flowers as large as those of 0. cucullatum, cream colour, with violet spots and bars. Sarcanthtjs chkysomelas {Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 622). — Orchidacere. A splendid species in the way of S. pani- culatus, with handsome foliage and large yellow flowers. In- troduced from Moulmein by Colonel Benson. Dendbomum Hlttoni {Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 686). — Orchidacese. A beautiful spe- cies, with rich crimson flowers. Introduced from the Malayan Archipelago. Cypripedicm Parimiii (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 814). — 0rchidacea3. A magnificent species, bearing five-flowered racemes of large handsome flowers, of a nankeen and greenish yellow colour. It has a fine robust habit, and will make a grand specimen for exhibition. Ampelopsis tricuspidata {Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 838).— A fine rapid-growing climber, sent out some time since under the provisional name of A. Vettchi. It has a neat habit, and will adhere tenaciously to a smooth, surface. BEGONIA CLA.KKEI. 280 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Odontoglossum anthoxanthum (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 388).— Orchidacesc. A species of no importance to cultivators. Bbassia arcuigera (Gard. Chron., 1S69, p. 388).— Orchidacece. A pretty species in the way of B. Lanceana. Rhododendron caucasicum flavidum {Gartenjlora, t. 560). — Ericaceoe. A handsome hardy evergreen shrub, bearing heads of several largish straw-coloured flowers, thickly spott< d on the upper segments with deep green dots. Oncidium andigentjm {Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 416) — Orchidaceaj. A curious little species, with dark yellow flowers, spotted with purple. Vanda Denisoniana (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 528).— Orchidacese. A mag- nificent white-flowered species from Burmah. Adiantoi decorum {Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 582).— A very beautiful species introduced from Peru by Messrs. Yeitch and Sons. Dendbobium carinifekum {Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 611).— A pretty species, of no particular value to cultivators. HnuLLEiiA. Wallisii {Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 611).— Orchidaceas. A botanical curiosity of no particular merit. BEGONIA VEITCHI. BKGONIA KOS.EFLOKA. Begonia Veitchi, Veitch's Begonia (Bot. Mag , t. 5663). — " Of all the species of Begonia known," says Dr. Hooker, " this is, I think, the finest. With the habit of Saxifraga ciliata, immense flowers of a vermilion cinnabar red, that no colourist can reproduce, it adds the novel feature of being hardy in ceitain parts of England, if not in all. It was discovered by Messrs. Veitch's collector, Mr. Pearce, near Cuzco, in Pern, at an elevation of 12,000—12,500 feet, and the plants grown in Mr. Veitch's establishments have already given sufficient proof of their hardihood by withstanding a temperature of 25° Fahrenheit with absolute impunity. Unwilling as I am to pronounce on the probable or possible adaptation of exotic plants to an English climate, I cannot but believe that in the south-western coun- ties and in the south of Ireland, the Begonia Veitchi will certainly prove one of the most ornamental of border plants." Begonia rosjEFlora, Rose -Jlotcered Beqonia {Bot. Mag., t. 5680). — A charming begonia of the gioup represented by B. Veitchi. It was imported fiom Peru by Messrs. Veitch and Son. Tacsonia quitensts {Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 388). — Passifloraceas. A fine sjecies in the way of T mollissima, but better. Dendrobium miserum {Gard. Chron., 1869,p. 3S8). — Orchidaeeas. An insig- nificant species from Assam. 281 IMER-NSV FOR PURCHASERS OF PLAITS, SEEDS, ETC. SELECTIONS OF BULBS TO BE PURCHASED DURING SEPTEMBER. j= SELECTIONS OF HYACINTHS, ARRANGED ACCORDING TO THEIR PRICE. Best twelve marked thus, f. Best six marked g^.TIVr" with an asterisk, thus, *. 10.?. Gd., and upwards, each. Single. — Garibaldi,* dark reddish crimson, fine and distinct ; Snowball,* pure white, splendid and fine spike; Blondin, silvery grey, external part ish blue; King of the Blues,* deep rich blue, aeur d'Overeen,* fine rich mauve, fine bells ; Bird of Paradise,* clear bright yello«', the best yellow; Ida,* a clear prim- rose, bells and spike first-rate. Double. — Koh-i-noor. 5-?. to 10,?. each. Single. — Reine de Jacinthes,* fine rosy carmine, fine large bells and spike ; Solfaterre, * fine deep bright red, with light centre, first rate in everyway ; Michael Angelo, pure white, in the way of Madame Van der Hoop, but better ; Lord Palmerston, clear greyish blue, with white eye, fine and distinct ; Feruck Khan,* nearly black, long spike and fine bells ; General Havelock,* blackish purple, large bells, and fine spike, the best of the black varieties; Marie,* dark blue, shaded with purple, and indigo stripe, medium bells, fine large spike ; Haydn, lilac-mauve, fine bells and spike ; Sir E. Landseer, reddish lilac ; Due de Malakoff,* straw cr fawn, stripped with rosy lake ; Susanna Maria, bright rose, large and handsome. 2s. to 4s. each. Single. — Cavaignac, * fine pink, striped with rose, beautiful bells and spike ; Howard,* orange red, fine ; Macaulay, rose, striped with red, grand bells and spikes ; Princess Clothilde, rose, striped with bright carmine, first rate ; Von Schiller,'* bright salmon-pink, striped with crimson, bells and spike first rate ; Alba Maxima,* pure white, fine bells and spike, early ; Madame Van der Hoop, pure white, large beautifully made bells ; Mont Blanc, pure white, first, rate bells and spike; Paix de l'Europe, pure white, fine spike; Bleu Aimable,* deep rich blue, good and distinct ; Von Humbolt,* deep purple black, good bells and spike. Double. — Milton, deep red, one of the best in its colour ; Garrick, blue, edged with lilac, bells large and finely formed ; Van Speyk, light lilac-blue, immense bells. la. to Is. 6d. each. Single. — Florence Nightingale,* blush, striped with rose ; Gigantea, blush pink, large close spike ; Le Prophete,* rose, striped with crimson, good spike and bells ; Madame Ristori, buff, shaded with rose ; Ornement de la Nature,* blush, striped with pink ; Victoria Alexandrina,* deep red, fine ; Mirandoline, pure white, well-arranged spike ; Tubiflora, blush, external part of tube reddish purple ; Couronne de Celle, azure blue, fine spike and bells ; Grand Vedette, light azute blue, good ; La Nuit,* black, very early ; Uncle Tom, purplish black ; Anna Carolina, clear yellow, fine large bells and good spike. Double. — Lord Wellington, pale rose, the best in its colour ; Sir Vvr. Scott, deep rose, good ; Prince of Waterloo, pure white, grand spike and bells ; Albion, dark blue ; Laurens Koster, dark blue, the best in its colour ; Murillo, bright blue, large bells and spike. Gd. to 9d. each. Single. — Amphion,-f' bright carmine, fine and distinct ; Duchess of Richmond , 282 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. pink ; Emmeline, pale rose, fine ; L'Ami du Coeur,t red, early ; Lord Wellington,!* rose, striped with reddish carmine, good ; Mdme. Rachel, red, fine ; Norma, f delicate pink, early and good ; Sultan's Favourite,* blush, striped with rose, good ; Grand Vainquer,f pure white ; Grandeur a Merveille,t* pale blush, fine large spike and bells ; Kroon Princess, pure white ; Baron Von Tuylhf* dark blue, fine spike, one of the very best in its colour ; Bleu Mourant,f deep rich blue ; Charles Dickens,f* light blue, remarkably fine ; L'Ami du Coeur, dark blue, early ; Mimosa, dark purple, fine ; Prince Albert, fine black ; L'Unique, mauve ; Alida Jacoba,t* canary yellow ; Heroiue,f * pale yellow. Double — Bouquet Royale,* rose, fine bells and spikes ; Grootvoorst, blush, early and good; Princess Royal,* rose, fine bells; Waterloo, deep red; Anna Maria,* blush; La Tour d'Auvergne, white, bells and spike first rate ; Blocksberg,* porcelain blue, a fine variety; Lord Wellington,* bright- blue; Ophir d'Or,* clear yellow. SHOW TULIPS. The following is a list of 200 cheap first-class sorts, which every beginner should possess, as they stand in the foremost rank at all our great exhibitions. The prices will range from half-a-crown to five shillings each, or thereabouts. A SELECTION OF 200 VARIETIES OF SHOW TULIPS. BIZARRES. First Row. — Albion, Dr. Horner, Goldham's Fortunius, Golden Fleece, King of Tulips, Marshal Soult, Osiris, Roi de Navarre, Groom's Rubini, Sir Edward Uod- rington, Lawrence's Solon, Lawrences's Selim, Stein's Napier, Telemachus, Clarke's Ulysses. Second Row. — Ariadne, Apollo, Bizard Le Kaine, Coronation, Charbonnier Noir, Captain White, Darius, Lawrence's Glencoe, Gloria Mundi, Lawrence's Ostade, Optimus, Lyde's Oddity, Pilot, Lawrence's Peacock, Strong's Titian, William IV. Third Sow. — Carter's Leopold, Charles X., Captain Sleigh, Delaforce's King, Lawrence's Fabius, Lord Strathmore, Lord John Russell, Magnum Bonum, Milton, Ophir, Polyphemus (feathered), Polyphemus (llamed), Prince of the Netherlands, Strong's Hero, Salamander, Walker's King. Fourth Roio. — Dickson's Duke of Devonshire, Lawrence's Donzelli, Emperor of Austria, Lord Collingwood, Proteus, Sharp's Victory {alias Sultan), Lawrence's Sheet Anchor, Warsaw. BYBLCEMF.XS. First Row. — Bienfait, Chellaston Beauty, Euclid, Gloria alborum, La Belle Nerine,Parmigiana, Goldham's Prince, Queen of the North, Strong's Claude, Gibbon's Purple Perfection. Second Row. — Lawrence's Friend {alias Addison), Brown's Wallace, Bijou des Amateurs, Blomart, Cleopatra, Countess of Harrington, Lawrence's Diogenes, Euterpe, Gibbon's Enchantress, Grand Monarque, Irlandois, Ivanhoe, Joseph Strutt, Lalla Rookh, Lewald, La Virginite, Lawrence's Lord Stanley, La Joie, La Latier, Malibran, Maid of Orleans, Mentor, Gibbon's Purple Perfection, Penelope, Prince Charles, Reid's Prince Albert, Wilmer's Queen Victoria, Queen Charlotte, Rubens, Smith's Wellington, Superb et Noir, Victoria Regina, Violet Blondeau, Violet Rou- geatre, Winifred, Zoe. Third Row. — Acapulca [alias Roi de Siara), Gibbon's Britannia, Black Baguet, Cincinnatus, Colossus, Desdemona, Due de Bordeaux, Due de Bourrleurs«, Gibbon's Elegans, Franciscus Primus, Grotius, Grand Sultan, Holme's King, Lawrence's Lady Errol, Lawrence's Lord Hawkesbury, Michael Angelo, Miss Porter, Princess Charlotte's Cenotaph, Princess Royal, Lawrence's Patty, Lawrence's Priam, Tintorette. Fourth Row. — Ambassador, Alexander Magnus, Lawrence's Camarine, Captain Lampson, Commodus, Lawrence's Elthiron, Louis XVL, Saint Paul, Thalia, Violet Quarto, General Barnovelde, Hugobert, Lelot Sovereign, Lilias' Grand Vase, Pass Salvator Rosa, Carter's Regulator, Wood's Rembrandt, Sir H. Pottinger, Gibbon's Surpass Le Grand. ROSES. First Roiv. — Scarnell's Bijou, Cerise Blanche, Catalina, Fleur des Dames, Kate Connor, Madge Wildfire, Rose Juliana, Lady Diana Boyle, Lachesis, Lady Wildair (flamed), Ondine (feathered), Groom's Pemana, Rose mignon. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 283 Second Row. — Aspasia, Andromeda, Cerise a Bella Forme, Comet, Lawrence's Cymbia, Duchess of Newcastle, Groom's Duchess of Sutherland, Dutch Ponceau, Slater's Fairy Queen, Goldham's Maria, Lawrence's Lady Waldegrave, Clark's Lavinia, Mary Lamb, Mason's Matilda, Perle Brillant, Perle d'Orient, Rose Imogene, Triumph Royal, Strong's Duchess of Kent, Lawrence's Emily, Willison's Juliet, La Belle Nanette, Ponceau-tres-blanc. Third Row. — Lawrence's Aglaia, Anastaeift, Claudiana, Lawrence's Duchess of Clarence, Fanny Cerito, Lord Byron, Rose Camuse, Rose Brilliant, Rose Galatea, Lawrpnce's Mary Anne, Rose Cordelia, Rose Walworth, Thalestris, Hayward's Magnificent, Vicar of Radford. Fourth Row. — Lawrence's Clarissima, Comte de Yergennes, Lawrence's Emily, Madame Vestris, Mountain Sylph, Midland Beauty, Prince William IV.,RosaBlanca. Eaelt-Flgwebing Tulips for. Pots or Beds in the Open-air. Single, Red. — Cramoisie, Vermilion Brilliant,")- Couleur Cardinal, Monument, Feu d'Anvers, Zongloed, Van Thol.f Yellow. — Marquis de Nesselrode, Yellow Prince, Yellow Tournesol,f Yellow Rose, Grenadier, Pottebakker.f Wldte. — Alida, Pottebakker, La Candeur, Coronne, Couropne des Roses. Various. — Roi Pepin,t white and crimson ; Due d' Aremberg, crimson and gold ; Florida,t deep mauve ; Keizerkroon,f crimson and gold ; Thomas Moore, f yellow and buff; Van der Neer, puce : Proserpine, f crimson ; Bonaparte, chocolate ; Brutus,f yellow- and red. Double — The best doubles for a group are La Candeur, Rex Rubrorum,t Tour- nssol,t Yellow Rose, Salvator Rosea. SELECTION OF CROCDS FOR TOT CULTURE AND THE OPEN BORDER. Albion, large white, striped with mauve; Caroline Chisholme, pure white ; Cloth of Gold, yellow ; Golden Yellow, large and fine ; La Majesteuse, white and lilac ; Mrs. Beecher Stowe, pure white ; Ne plus Ultra, fine blue ; Prince Albert, blue, fine ; Princess Alexandra, dark violet, fine and early ; Princess of Wales, fine white, large and good ; Queen Victoria, white ; Sir Walter Scott, white, striped with blue. POLYANTHUS NARCISSUS — SELECTION FOR POT CULTURE. Bazelman Major, white, yellow cup ; Florence Nightingale, white, orange cup, dwarf and good; Gloriosa, white, yellow cup; Grand Mouarque, white, citron cup ; Lord Canning, yeilow, orange cup, dwarf; Newton, yellow, orange cup ; Queen of the Netherlands, white, yellow cup, fine; Queen of the Yellows, pale yellow, bright orange cup ; States General, creamy white, lemon cup. FOR THE OPEN BORDER. Albus Pienus, white, sweet scented ; Orange Phoenix, fine yellow ; Bulbocodium (Hoop Petticoat), yellow ; Poeticus, white, with crimson ring. DOUBLE ANEMONES FOR MASSING. Blanche et Rouge, red ; Feu Superbe, bright scarlet; Harold, purplisTi blue; L'Eclair, scarlet, fine ; L'Ornement de la Nature, deep blue ; Lord High Admiral, violet, shaded with blue. DOUBLE PERSIAN RANUNCULUS FOR MASSING. Fireball, deep scarlet; Mont Blanc, fine white; Ophir d'Or, yellow, spotted ; Sunflower, golden yellow. IXIAS. Aurantiaca major, f Alice, Bucephalus, f Brilliant, Beauty of Norfolk.t Brutus, Conqueror,f Cleopatra, Camoana, Crateroides, Golden Drop.f Hybrida longifl.ora,f Hector, Hercules, Lady of the Lake.f Lady Siade, Magnifica,f Maculosa, t Marais, Pharaon,f Plutus, Piioebe, Pallas, Purpurea major,f Rosea duplex, Silas, Sul- phurea spicata,t Titus, Viridiflora,f Wonder. SPARAXIS. Angelique, white, yellow eye ; Emilius, purple and yellow ; Josephine, yellow, prettily striped ; Grandiflora, purple ; Leopard, pale yellow, dark eye ; Queen Vic- toria, dark maroon, tricolor, red and yellow. MISCELLANEOUS BULBS, Lachenalia pendula, red and yellow ; L. tricolor, red and yellow ; L. quadricolor, scarlet and yellow ; Snowdrops, single ; Scilla bifolia, blue; S. campanulata, dark blue ; S. prascox, deep blue ; S. siberica, blue ; Tritonia crocata, orange; Triteleia uniflora. white. 284 THE GARDEN GUIDE. Bar.— 30-01. Ther.— 67, 49, 561. j September. Wind— S.S.W., S.E. Kain. — 2L in. Gbeenholsb Flowers. — Abutilon vexillarum, Erica Marnockiana, E. McNabiana, Erythrina crista galli, E. Marie Belanger, Hydrangeas, Latana Soule de Neige, L. eleganthsima, Lapa- geria rosea, Rochea falcata, Sedum Fa- barium, Trachelium ccerulcum, T. album, Plumbago capensis. ' Garden Flowers. — Anemone vitifolia, Aster dumosus, A. horizontalis, Campanula Celsii, C. Caroliniana, C. persicifolia, invar.; Crucianella stylosa, Delphinium amcenum, E. stuphisagria, Dianthus hy- bridus multtflorus, Erigeron serpeniarius, Funkia grandjflora, Helianthus multi- florus, fl. pi. ; Herbaceous Phloxes. The Weather. — September is usually characterized by mildness and equanimity ; it is seldom that great storms, or any extremes of heat or cold or dryness occur in this month. The autumn of 1869 is likely to be warm and dry. Flower Garden. — Plant out layers and pipings of Carnations, Pinks, and Picotees as soon as they are well rooted. Select an open situation, and dig the ground tip deeply before planting. Divide and replant Daisies and Polyanthuses for spring beading, if not already done. Look after dahlias, and support them with stakes as it becomes necessary, and protect from earwigs by setting traps. Fill a few small pots with moss, and turn them bottom upwards upon the stakes used in supporting the branches. Seedling herbaceous plants ought to be strong by this time, and ready for planting out ; but there is yet time for sowing seed, if still undone. Transplant evergreens, and propagate either by cuttings or layers. Turf laid now will get nicely established by winter. Ivy and box edgings may also be made. Finish the propagation of the stock of bedding plants as quickly as possible. Greenhouse. — Plants that have tender constitutions, like Heaths, Epacris, Chorozemas, etc., must soon have the shelter of the greenhouse or pit. Give the structures intended for their winter quarters a thorough cleansing, and whitewash the walls with hot lime previously to bringing the plants indoors. Pay particular attention to the roots with respect to moisture ; for, whilst guarding against keep- ing them too wet, see that they do not suffer from drought. Shift on Cinerarias, Calceolarias, and Primulas as the case demands. Those intended for early flower- ing must go into their flowering-pots at once, if they have not yet received their final shift. Place Fuchsias, as they go out of flower, outside for a week or ten days, to insure the wood being well matured before packing them away for the winter. Stove. — Nearly all the summer-flowering occupants of this structure have now completed their growth, and require more light and air, and less warmth than they have been receiving lately. They should, therefore, be placed in the coolest end of the house, and winter-flowering subjects, such as Gesneras, Justicias, Poinsettias, Thyrsacanthus, etc., must have every encouragement to get them strong before the light declines too much. Orchidaceous plants must also have free exposure to the light, to effect a thorough maturation of the newly-made Bolbous Flowers. — Belladonna Lily, Amaryllis Belladonna; Guernsey Lily, Nerine sarniensis, N. Eothergilli ; Eu- comis undulata, and E. punctata, Ama- ryllis reticulata, Vallota purpurea, Lilium auratum, Gladiolus gandivemis, in var. Stove Flowers. — JEchmea fulgens, Allamanda Hendersonii, Begonia Wel- toniensis, Clerodendron faVax, Gloriosa Plantii, Hibiscus sinensis, Ipomea Leari, Passiflora Eecaisneana, Torenia Asiatica, Vinca rosea, V. alba oculata, Dendrobium chrysanthemum.* " The floors ihall be full of wheat, and the fats shall overflow with wine and oil. And ye shall eat in plenty, and be satisfied, and praise the name of the Lord your God, that hath dealt wondrously with you." — Joel ii. 24. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 285 pseudo-bulbs ; and unless that is done, few flowers next season must be expected. Withhold the syringe after the beginning of the month, unless in exceptional cases, and maintain the necessary atmospheric humidity by sprinkling the floors. Kitchen Garden.— Thin the winter crop of turnips to the proper distance apart, and the spinach slightly, if too thick. Hoe the ground between the rows to destroy every vestige of weed before it has time to seed, and thus render it unneces- sary to tread the ground when in a soft state from the autumn rains. Plant out a good breadth of the Green, Curled, and Broad-leaved Batavian Endive, and Brown Cos and Drumhead Cabbage Lettuce for the winter. Tie up for blanching those sufficiently advanced. Take up and store Potatoes, and the Onions not sufficiently matured for taking up last month. Make an elevated bed for the reception of a frame to receive the Cauliflower plants to stand over the winter. Hand-lights and ground vineries are invaluable adjuncts to the kitchen garden for protecting young plants of various crops, and for preserving Lettuce, Endive, and many other things after they have reached maturity. Plant out the main crop of Cabbage for spring use at a distance of two feet apart, and insert a strong Colewort plant between each four, to draw during the winter. Sow Chervil, Corn Salad, and Radishes for a late supply. Earth up Celery and Leeks, selecting a dry day for that purpose. Fruit Garden. — Expose the fruit on wall-trees to the light by removing the leaves -which overshadow it. Early Apples and Pears must be gathered as soon as the stalk parts readily from the tree, and placed in the fruit-room until fit for the table ; for, when allowed to remain on the trees until ready for consumption they lose their fine brisk flavour, and eat flat. Some of the Pear trees will have pushed again ; cut the shoots recently made back to within three leaves of their base. Pyramidal and cordon trees that are making a strong growth require root-prunin"- ; the end of this month, or as soon as the crop is gathered, is the best time for per- forming that operation. When done early, they make fresh roots, and get re-established before the winter. Fresh plantations of Strawberries may still be made with a considerable chance of success, but such heavy crops of fruit must not be expected as from those planted early last month. Pits and Frames. — Pot off intermediate stocks in good turfy loam, mixed with a liberal proportion of rotten manure and leaf-mould. Sow Mignonette for late work, and thin that already up to about five plants to each five or six-inch pot. Give abundance of air to cuttings of bedding plants that are rooted, aud draw the lights off altogether when thoroughly established. Forcing. — Pines swelling their fruit must have liberal encouragement ; the temperature should range from 80° to 90°, with a bottom-heat of 8o°. Reduce the temperature, and ventilate somewhat liberally, even if extra fire-heat becomes necessary. Give all the air possible to Vines from which the crop has been gathered, and keep the atmosphere dry in houses in which the grapes are hano-mcr. Those just colouring also require plenty of air, even if artificial warmth is required to maintain the proper temperature. Young Cucumber plants must be raised at once, where a supply is required throughout the winter. Melons ripening require extra warmth to finish them off quickly, or they will be insipid and flavourless. The Soap Beret. — The nuts of the soap berry, Sapindus saponaria, were at one time brought to England, and used for waistcoat button^, and were highly esteemed for that purpose on account of their dm ability. The skin and pulp which surround the nuts were also used for washing linen, but they are too acrid, and soon destroy it. The seed-vessels form a lather freely in water, and the water in which the tops of the branches and the leaves have been boiled or steeped has powerful cleansing properties. The whole plant, when crushed and thrown into ponds or rivers, will intoxicate and kill the fish therein. The seeds are round and hard, and have a fine polish. They are even now sometimes used by the Spaniards for buttons. Sciiizanthus Culture in Pots. — The Schizanthus, if sown soon in five- inch pots, and thinned out to four plants in each pot, will make charming subjects for conservatory decoration in early spring. Use any good loamy soil, and prutect from frost at all times, and guard against a damp atmosphere, or a large proportion will " damp off." S. Grahamii, S. returns, and S. retusus albus, are the best for pot culture. 2SG HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS. Lilium aubatum is only just beginning to show its true capabilities. Messrs. Standish and Co., of Ascot, have had a plant in bloom during the past month, with a single stem measuring thirteen feet in height, and bearing upwards of a hundred flowers. At the committee meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, on the 17th alt,, Mr. Goode, gardener to the Dowager Lady Ashburnam, Melchet Court, Romney, Hants, exhibited a grand specimen, with ten main stems nine feet high, measuring an inch in diameter at a foot from the surface of the soil, besides several smaller stems, bearing altogether 152 flowers— a wonderful example of cultural skill. The Seed Adultebation Bill received the royal assent on the 11th ult., and will come into operation in May, 1870. The promoters are forming an association to carry out its provisions in an effectual manner. The Hamburgh International Hobticultueal Exhibition has assumed such colossal proportions as to require an enlargement of the limits assigned to it. The Senate have placed at the disposal of the Exhibition Committee an adjoining meadow, in which a splendid pavilion is erected. The applications for space for stove and greenhouse plants amount to 25,000 square feet, and for coniferous trees GO, 000 square feet. Everything is promised to be in readiness for opening on the 2nd inst. Victobia Regia. — There is a fine plant of this beautiful lily growing in the Botanic Garden, Ghent. Experiments have been made with a view to ascertain ■what weight a leaf of the plant would support. The leaves were made to bear a weight of 226 kilogrammes, equal to about 500 lb. avoirdupois. This, so far as known, is the greatest trial to which the leaf has been subjected. Testimonial to Mr. Barnes, late of Bicton. — We are pleased to announce that it is in contemplation to present this veteran with a testimonial in appreciation of his labours in the advancement of horticultural science. The subscriptions need not be large, and we trust that all who have profited by his example and writings will cheerfully contiibute. The editor of the " Devon Weekly Times," Exeter, has kindly consented to receive subscriptions. Vines and Bottom-heat. — Mr. Thomson, of Dalkeith, exhibited, at the Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibition at Manchester, a collection of grapes, to illustrate the effects of bottom-heat to the vines, consisting of examples of White Frontignan, Black Alicante, Royal Muscadine, Muscat of Alexandria, Grizzly Frontio-nan, Chasselas Napoleon, rieeve's Muscadine, and Rivers' Muscadine. All were grown in the same house, from vines planted in May, 1868, and all had been subjected to a bottom-heat varying from 90° to 100D, except in the case of the Royal Muscadine, which had no bottom-heat. This variety, under equal circum- stances, would have attained maturity two months earlier than the Muscat ; but under the above-mentioned conditions they were not so far advanced as the Muscat grown with the aid of bottom-heat. The Royal Hobticultueal Society's Exhibition of Gladioli and Holly- hocks.— Although the prizes were rather small, there was a goodly collection of these beautiful autumn flowers. Grand stands of Gladioli were staged by Messrs. Kelway and Sons, Langport, who took first for tweh'e and twenty-four, with magnificent spikes. Messrs. Bunyard, Ashford, Kent, also put up good stands in the Nurserymen's classes. Mr. Douglas, Lford, Mr. Sladden, Ash, and the Rev. H. Dombrain, were the principal exhibitors in the Amateur classes. The best varieties staged were Marie Dumatorie, S mspareil, Prince of Wales, Picciola, Thomas Moore, Piince Imperial, Meyerbeer, Gipsy Queen, Filicien David, Senator, Thomas Methven, Moliere, Rossini, Apollou, Madame Victor Verdier, Madame Furtado, and Madame Dombrain. Hollyhocks were shown in splendid condition by Mr. W. Chater, Saffion Walden, and Mr. J. J. Chater, Cambridge; the best vaiieties being Acme, Robert Fish, Leah, Triumph, Loid Napier, Perfection, Com- petitor, Carus Chater, Peri, Ariadne, King, Enchantress, Goldfinder, Hercules, Rosa Mundi, and Nonpareil. 2S7 TO CORRESPONDENTS. Sweet William Culture. — A Novice. — Sow the seed at once in a shallow box, and place in a cold frame if choice and limited in quantity; otherwise, sow a small bed in the open air. When the plants get to a proper size for transplanting, plant in a bed, in rows twelve inches apart, and half that distance from plant to plant. Mark the best when in flower, and destroy the others. If you wish to obtain first-class seed, you must destroy every inferior flower as soon as the first flowers expand, or adopt some means for protecting the seed-bearing plants from the influence of the pollen of inferior flowers. We should advise you to propagate the best varieties from cuttings, for we see no reason why there should not be named varieties, in the same way as Antirrhinums, Phloxes, and other herbaceous plants. The cuttings will strike freely under a hand-light. Plant in deep rich soil, if you are particular about the size of the plants and the quality of the flowers. Propagating Hollyhocks. — H. G. — Take the cuttings off with a small heel, and insert them in pots, and place in a cold frame ; or dibble them in the open border, and cover with a bell-glass or hand-light. Kepotting and Transplanting Liliums. — B. B., Yorkshire. — No apology is required, for we are always happy to assist our readers out of their difficulties. The exact time for repotting or taking np Liliums depends upon the sorts when in the open border, and upon the time they were started when in pots. There is a great diversity of opinion amongst cultivators as to whether it is desirable to repot liliums without disturbing the old soil or not. The whole case lies in a nutshell. The advocates for shaking out are those who repot in the autumn, and the other side, which condemns the practice, are those who repot in spring. The opponents of shaking out lose sight of the fact that all Liliums begin to make fresh roots directly the flower-stems die down, and fancy that it is immaterial whether they are disturbed or not in the spring. They consequently shake out in the spring, and, because the bulbs make a poor growth the following summer, the practice is condemned. It is very certain Liliums will not grow for ever in the same soil, and if they are potted on regularly without reducing the old ball, where shall we get pots large enough in which to pot them a few years hence ? besides having a mass of old sour soil, full of dead roots, in the centre. When transplanted or repotted directly the old stems have died down, they speedily re-establish themselves, and have then a fresh supply of food to carry them through the following season. The bulbs ought not to be denuded of every particle of soil, and pulled to pieces, as generally practised, but, instead, potted in a lump, with a good thickness of soil adhering to them. Nothing suits them better than good turfy loam and fibry peat, broken up roughly, and mixed with a liberal proportion of rotten manure, leaf- mould, and silver sand. Zonal Pelakgoniums for Specimens. — Constant Reader. — Never mind what has been said in prize essays or elsewhere about taking up zonate pelargoniums in October, to pot for specimens. Take yours up as quickly as possible after this comes to hand, and pot them in as small pots as the roots will conveniently admit. Let them remain in a shady place out-of-doors until there is a danger from frost, and then house them. Shift them into their flowering-pots early in March. Selection of Gold and Silver Zonals for Pot Culture. — Anxious Inquirer. — Twelve Gold Zonals : Achievement, Howarth Ashton, Jetty Lacy, Lady Sheffield, Lady Cullum, L'Emp reur, Louisa Smith, Lucy Grieve, Queen Victoria, Sophia Cusack, Sophia Dumaresque, Mrs. Dix. The price of the major part of these will range from one to five shillings each, but two or three are worth from one to two guineas each. The catalogue of a house which makes a speciality of this class of plants will give the exact price. Six Silver Zonals : You will not require so large a number of varieties of the silver zonals. The following are the most distinct : Banshee, Caroline, Longfield, Imperatrice E'igenie, Italia Unita, Princess of Wales, and Queen Victoria. Buy them in at once, and then you will have stout plants to begin with in the spring, instead of cuttings just, struck in a high temperature. If any of the plants are pot-bound when they come to hand, shift into pots one size larger. Lady Subscriber can obtain roots of ginger {Zinziber offici talis) from the principal London nurserymen. Probably her regular nurseryman would procure it 288 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. for her. It will not do well in a greenhouse ; temperature intermediate between the stove and greenhouse is the most suitable. Grapes for Cool Vinery. — F. J. B., Norwood. — Two best black grapes, Black Hamburgh and Mrs. Pince's Black Muscat. Best white, Buckland Sweet- water, or Thomson's Golden Champion. The last is first-rate in every way. You cannot have a variety possessing a strong muscat flavour, for they all require a strong heat to do them justice. Fuchsia Leaves falling prematurely. — Miss W. ~Enniscotty . — The plants have probably been allowed to suffer from the want of water ; that would cause the leaves to drop. When grown in a dry atmosphere, the red spider will soon take possession of the foliage and produce the same results. G. E. N. — Make an offer of your plants to some of the leading nurserymen that grow ferns extensively. If that fail, advertise them in the gardening periodicals. Ashes as a Manure. — A Perplexed Rector. — A thin dressing of coal ashes will act beneficially upon your heavy clay soil, by making it more workable. Their action, however, is simply mechanical, and it is possible to dress too heavily with them. A few good dressings of half-rotte.n stable manure will also be of great service. A few medium-sized cinders will do no harm. Dress with the ashes in the autumn, and leave the soil in ridges through the winter. Furnishing Conservatory. — P. S. O. — Your ideas are so good that we can propose but few alterations with advantage. A rockery as you propose, planted with choice o-reenhouse and hardy ferns, would have a charming appearance. The water, if it can be conveniently arranged, will materially enhance the general effect. Be careful in leaving plenty of space for the soil in which the ferns are to be grown. The following is a good list of six neat-growing climbers, suitable for the conservatory : — Cobea scandens variegata, Kennedga monophylla, K. Mari/atta, K. inophylla fioribunda, Lapageria rosea, Passijlora Loudoniana, and Tacsonia Van Volxemii. The tea roses grow and flower freely trained to conservatory pillars, but they are scarcely to be recommended for that purpose. Gloire de Dijon and Marechal Neil are two good varieties. Building Rockery. — Cleopatra. — Cut the tree down, and leave a stump about six feet high, and build a rockery rouud the stump, and train ivy and other climbers over it. The trunk, hollowed out as you suggest, and a good specimen of Yucca recurva placed therein, would have a good effect ia the centre of the rockery, especially if covered with ivy. "Winter Cucumbers. — Another Kentish Gardener writes, ''I was highly delighted with the article upon the cultivation of Winter Cucumbers, but there are a few particulars wanted in the routine treatment that would be of immense service to a novice : — 1st. "Which is the best variety for the winter ? 2nd. When and where should the seed be sown ? 3rd. What degree of heat, top and bottom, should be maintained ?" [In answer to the above queries our correspondent, " A Kentish Gardener" writes, " I find Masters Prolific and Telegraph (when true) to be two first-rate winter varieties. The seed should be sown on the 1st of September, singly in small pots, and plunged in a gentle bottom-heat, and the closer to the glass the better. The pots must be placed near the glass, to keep the plants stocky, as soon as the seed leaf is fairly above the surface. The bottom-heat should closely average 75°, and the top-heat the same; but the latter may range from 70' to 80°, according to the mildness or the severity of the weather ; but there should be a fall of five degrees during the night."] C. T. R., Sunninghill A plaster.of grease from a cart or waggon-wheel, bound tightly round the wound, will generally effect the desired result. Spirtea Palmata. — X. B.— See our advertisement pages. The Fern Garden.— H. A. B., Dublin. — There should be no difficulty in procuring this book in Dublin, or anywhere else in the United Kingdom, for if the local booksellers cannot supply it, the publishers, Messrs. Groombridge and Sons, 5, Paternoster Row, London, will forward a copy, post-paid, on receipt of 3s. 6d. in postage stamps. ;>r MAN DA NOB I LIS. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE OCTOBER, 1869. ALLAMANDAS. {With figure of A. nobllis.) |T would be difficult, if not impossible, to say too much in praise of the magnificent Allamanda here figured. The picture, which is true to nature, speaks for itself, and, after all the fuss there has been about Allamandas within the past twelve months, it is refreshing to be able to intro- duce to the notice of the readers of the Floral World one that is iona fide new, and distinct from all the other species. A. nohilis possesses all the necessary qualities for forming fine specimens for exhibition, and also for training to the pillars and rafters of the plant stove, for home decoration. It has a free-growing, trailing habit, and bear3 large oblong-acuminate leaves, thickly covered with short hairs ; the flowers, which are produced in remarkable profusion, are stout and waxy, and average fully four inche3 in diameter ; the colour is a beautiful soft shade of bright clear yellow, without any stain or marking ; and, as will be seen by the plate, the segments are broader and more imbricated than those of the other species, which gives the flowers a more circular outline and a bolder character. It has been introduced from Rio Branco, Brazil, and can now be had at a cheap rate from the principal nurseries — a healthy little plant being obtainable for about five shillings. All the Allamands are natives of tropical climates, and require stove treatment to grow and flower them successfully. They are all of free growth, and unless very large specimens are wanted, it is preferable to destroy all the plants after the third year. When this is done, it will be necessary to propagate a fresh stock to keep up a succession. AVe can, however, dismiss this part of the cultural details very briefly, because where there is a stove to grow specimens, the cuttings can be struck as easy as verbenas. They can also be increased by grafting ; but as that plan involves the necessity of striking cuttings of another species first, to get the stocks, it is not VOL. IV. — NO. X. 19 290 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. a desirable system, excepting for trade growers. The most important points in connection with striking the cuttings are to select mode- rately vigorous shoots — firm, without being hard — and insert them round the outside of five-inch pots — say four cuttings in each. Put two or three inches of crocks in the bottom of the pot, and fill the remaining space to within half an inch of the surface with equal parts peat and loam, and a liberal proportion of silver sand. This must be pressed in firm, and a layer of sand placed on the surface, sufficiently deep to be level with the rim of the pot. Plunge the pots in a brisk bottom-heat of about 75°, until the cuttings are struck, and then take up and pot singly into 60's. If convenient, partly plunge the pots in the bed again, and leave them until the roots begin to reach the sides of the pots, and then lift them out, and stand upon the surface of the bed, or upon a shelf close to the glass, without being too much exposed to the sun. It is not desirable to let them get pot-bound at this stage, therefore shift into six-inch pots immediately the pots are nicely filled with roots, and again into nine-inch pots as soon as it becomes necessary. Only strong plants, obtained from cuttings struck early in the spring, will require shifting into the last-mentioned size. As the main object the first year is to obtain a foundation upon which to build specimens in succeeding years, stop the young shoots three or four times during the season ; but no stopping must be practised after the middle of August, because there wdll not be time for the wood pro- duced after that period to get well matured and hard before the v inter commences. A temperature between 70° and 80' will be the most suitable during the growing season ; and a liberal supply of moisture at the roots, in combination with a moist atmosphere, and a syringe over- head twice a day, are also essential features in their management. At the same time sufficient air must be admitted to keep the wood firm and short-jointed. After the end of September, prepare for winter by withholding the customary syringiugs, gradually lessening the supply of water at the roots, and by placing them in a cool end of the house. From November to February, a temperature ranging from 50° to 55° will be quite high enough. All the species excepting A. Hendersoni are deciduous; there- fore, no attempt must be made to compel them to retain the leaves during the winter by means of liberal supplies of water and a high temperature. Although A. Hendersoni is an evergreen, it must have a thorough rest, which can be accomplished by keeping it in the temperature mentioned above, with just sufficient water to keep the leaves fresh and plump. If this species is dried off so completely as the others, it will suffer considerably, and refuse to break regularly the following spring. The wood of the others must be firm and well ripened before winter, to prevent its shrivelling when the water is withheld, and the drying-off must be done in a gradual manner. Early in February prune the young shoots of the preceding season back to two or three eyes from the base, according to the strength of the respective growths. A fortnight after pruning, plunge the pots in a hotbed of 75", and as soon as the buds begin to push, shift THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 291 into pots two sizes larger, and in doing so, loosen the roots carefully round the outside of the ball, and then reduce it slightly without injuring the roots. Return to the bottom-heat, and syringe fre- quently, but give little water to the roots, until the plants have recovered from the check received in potting. Pot firm, and use a compost consisting of two parts turfy loam, one part peat, and one part of equal quantities of leaf-mould, and thoroughly decayed cow- dung, with a liberal sprinkling of sand. The pots must be perfectly clean when used, and have a good drainage in the bottom. One shift will be ample to carry them through the season unless required for flowering very late ; in that case pinch the young growth up to the beginning of May, when a second shift can be given, and the growth from that time allowed to go unchecked. It takes from ten to twelve weeks from the time of the last stopping until the expansion of the flowers, so that there need be no difficulty or doubt in knowing when to discontinue stopping to have them in flower at any particular season. Liberal supplies of water, both at the roots and overhead, will be necessary throughout the growing season, and after the pots are full of roots, weak liquid manure should be applied at every alternate watering, or if that is difficult to obtain, sprinkle a little of Standen's Gardeners' Friend over the surface of the soil. The syringing over- head must be withheld after the flowers show colour, but feed liberally even then in order to promote the production of fresh flowers. All, with the exception of A. Hendersoni and A. neriflora, require a trellis for their support, which should be fixed in the pot directly the spring growth has commenced. The two species mentioned above have a dwrarf bushy habit, and are best grown as bushes ; and the growth supported with neat stakes. The treatment for the next winter is the same as that already advised, but in the spring follow- ing, after pruning, reduce the balls of soil, and repot in the same size again, but use a clean pot. "With the assurance that, by following the directions herein laid down, there will be no difficulty in having grand specimens, we will offer a word of advice upon the merits of the several species most worthy of culture. A. Aubletii. — A fine species from Guiana, with large bright yellow flowers. A. cathartica. — This is a good old species, but too rambling in growth for houses of limited dimensions. A. grandiflora. — This splendid Brazilian species is one of the very best, being neat in habit and a profuse flowerer, the flowers being of a bright clear yellow colour. A. Hendersoni (syn. Wardleiana) . — Notwithstanding the mystery which surrounds this beautiful species, it is one of the very best for exhibition and general cultivation, and for houses of limited dimen- sions it is the best, because it flowers freely in small pots, and has a neat compact habit. It is a true evergreen, and the flowers, which are of deep golden yellow, are produced for five or six months in succession. 292 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. A. Wardleiana is nothing more nor less than the true Hender- soni, which was brought into disrepute through a large number of A. Schotti being, from some unexplained cause, sold for it. It is a native of New Grenada. A. nobilis. — The description of this beautiful acquisition will be found at the beginning of this paper. A. Schotti. — This is a good strong-growing species, bearing its large waxy golden yellow flowers rather freely, but it is not wanted in small collections of stove plants where A. FLendersoni is grown. It is, however, too good to discard altogether. S. H. HARDY FUCHSIAS. BY W. CHITTT, Florist, Stamford Hill, N". jHE other day I was in an old and rather neglected garden, and was much struck with the beauty of some fine old specimens of Fuchsia virgata, several of them being six feet high, and as much through, and studded as they were with thousands of flowers, they had a very showy and beautiful appearance. I have always been an admirer of this fuchsia, and also of two or three others of its congeners, and have made a point of advocating their more extended culture wherever practicable. When once these old varieties are planted out, they give no further trouble to the cultivator beyond thinning out the shoots in the spring, aDd even if they do not receive this attention, they will do very well, as some of the shoots are sure to take the lead, and form a fine vigorous bush. !No plants in cultivation are more useful for planting in out-of-the-way places, such as on the borders of a walk round a paddock, or the margins of shrubberies, than Fuchsia virgata, F. Riccartoni, F. gracilis, F. inacrostemma, and F. Thomsonii. All are of erect growth, and form dense bushes, with thousands of blossoms throughout the months of autumn. F. corallina is equally as hardy as the above, and will remain out jTear after year, and make vigorous growth, and flower abundantly. Its habit is. however, decumbent, and requires the support of a stake to enable it to display its beauty. F. glohosa makes a very neat and attractive little bush, but does not attain the size of any of the preceding. I have now lying before me the first volume of the " Floricul- tural Cabinet " (1S33), and at page 7, an en husiastic admirer of these plants, after describing his mode of ^propagating, etc., says : — " If the summer be droughty, I attend well to watering at the roots, and as I have abundance of manure water which drains from the farmyard, I occasionally wrater them copiously with that. In the autumn I cover the roots with old tanner's bark, or a half-rotten sort of manure, to the depth of six inches, and place a layer of soil THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 293 over it. During winter, if it happens to be very severe, some of the plants suffer, and in the spring require pruning. Cut off the shoots to about four inches from the ground, and let the bark or other covering be taken away, and some well-rotted hotbed dung just pointed in, or spread over the surface, and hid by a slight covering of soil. Those plants which have not received much injury only require their side shoots to be cut back to about two inches from the main stem. Trained up, and treated in other respects as above described, the plants have a most beautiful effect. I have some plants in sheltered, warm situations, which have grown from seven to eight feet high in one season. During the last summer they were a complete mass of bloom, and nothing could exceed their pleasing appearance. The following sorts are what I have culti- vated in the mauuer mentioned above : — F. gracilis, F. tenella, F. virgata, F. conica, F. coccinea, F. thymifolia, and F. micropliylla." These directions so completely embody my own way of treating them, that no cultural directions from me are necessary, and I am sure that the cultivator will receive ample compensation in attending to their simple wants ; and I trust that the remarks on these really fine old subjects will bo the means of obtaining for them a larger amount of justice than is at present accorded them. THE CULTUKE OE THE CACTUS. BT. WILLIAM ROBINSON, F.L.S., Author of '' The Parks, Promenades, and Gardens of Paris." |HE extensive culture of Cacti in private gardens tends to a very unsatisfactory kind of monotony, but there are plants to be found in the various sections, which, for singular beauty when out of ilower, and for the most brilliant of colours when in that state, are not only not surpassed, but not equalled, by any plants in the country. It may be that even Cactus-loving readers may doubt this, but they would not if they once saw some of the species that Sigma enumerates in bud or in flower, or even after their remaining some months in the warm frame. I have seen the Cacti in every botanic garden in the United Kingdom, and many choice private collections, particularly the famous one of the late Mr. Borrer at Henfield, and the yet more rich and extensive one of Mr. Wilson Saunders at Reigate ; but for my first glimmer of pure light in Cactus culture I am indebted to my genial Cactus-loving and Cactus-purveying friend M. Pffersdorf, of Kensal New Town, who supplies Covent Garden and London generally with those liliputian, but healthy, fairy little Cactuses, Mammillarias, Echeverias, and the like, that may be seen in thimble-pots in numerous London windows. And not only London, but Paris, where he has a succulent growing establishment, and formerly Vieuna, where he first began, and from 294 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. which he afterwards migrated to Paris and Loudon. One would think that our great botanic gardens, in which they have grown Cacti for ages, would exhibit them in a better state than other growers ; and some of them do indeed preserve them in a fine state, notably Kew and Oxford — the Oxford collection being in fine health from being kept much warmer and brighter than is usual, and containing many rare kinds ; the collection at Kew being beyond all comparison grand, as well for its general effect in the great succulent house, as for its interest of detail and richness of rare and valuable species. But the Kew Mammillarias, etc., though fat and fresh-looking, are poor enough when compared to those grown on the plan that Sigma recommends, in the Ploral AVorld of September, 1861, and which M. Pftersdorf has for yeara practised. In taking me round his little densely-packed Cactus garden, he opened some frames— dung-frames — and immediately ray eyes were expanded more than is their wont by the sight of hundreds of Mammillarias, and the neater and dwarfer Cacti, positively glisten- ing with health, the green beneath the spines looking as polished as the Portugal and common laurels do in the mild and moist parts of the south alter an autumnal shower. And the spines, how determined they looked, and how fiercely hooked at the top in many instances, quite unlike the flabby, starved Cactuses so often seen. They were all sitting plunged in loose, fine, and comparatively dry material. I think it was sawdust and leaf-mould mixed, and finely sifted, and underneath a brisk hotbed, the plants being placed near the glass, and when once started fairly into growth never shaded. It needed not one word to convince me — I saw it all at a glance — that the plants in those warm and sunny frames enjoyed the very conditions that suited them to perfection. Even then I had no conception how beautifully Mammillarias grown in this way could flower, but having obtained a selection by way of exchange from M. Pftersdorf, they all flowered the following summer, and beauti- fully too. As ornamental plants, not only when in flower, but when coming into it for weeks, when the crimson flower-buds, arranged in a perfect circle or corona round the head of the plant, are emerging their vivid points through the white or grey spines, the effect is charming, and some of the best kinds are well worth propagating, to the extent of a dozen or two, for the sake of placing a ring of specimens coming into flower together around a low wide vase of some choice group of plants. Now these plants when they are grown are generally kept in the cool greenhouse, where they rarely have light and sun enough, and consequently, never making good roots and growth in summer, live over the winter in a struggling state — the cultivator saying they are at rest when they are in the throes of death, and going off rotten now and then " from too much water," though they rarely get half enough of that requisite. There is hardly a garden but possesses means of doing them much better than this, even if taking the trouble of making a special small hotbed for them is out of the question. By taking the stock out of the greenhouse in the begin- ning of June or end of May— or, indeed, at present will not be too THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 295 late— and placing them in a frame well exposed to the sun and never shaded, and watering them as freely as you would a geranium, never taking the lights oft', and giving a medium degree of ventilation, and taking no notice of how much the frame gets above 100" on very hot days, you may grow them very well indeed — quite superior to those seen in a greenhouse. Let the glass of the frame be as clear and large as may be, and never shade it. In many gardens where there are pits and the like empty, or nearly so, during the summer months — perhaps full of slightly-heated material — they might be grown to perfection, and in any case it would require very little trouble to prepare a place for them. They should be placed as near the glass as possible, and taken into the warm greenhouse or sitting- room early in autumn, and there are no plants in existence that winter better in a dry, airy, and warm room. The sloppy, dull character of many greenhouses is very prejudicial to these natives of sunny climes ; they feel ns miserable in it as their countrymen would in a "good" specimen of a cold Loudon fog. My friend, Mr. John O'Brien, who planted and developed the grand tropical fernery at Rockville, near Dublin, and who made that place what it is during his superintendence, afterwards wrote from Mexico, the country from which hundreds of these plants come, to say that though frost is occasionally present there, and he found ice thick in the bases of the Agave leaves, and Ladias flourish tipped with hoar frost, yet the climate is of the most brisk and sunny character, the air bright and warm, and so clear that you may sometimes trace " a thin column of smoke rising a mile in the air." Is it any wonder that Mexican Mammillarias, placed at some distance from the glass, and perhaps shaded by tall-growing plants, should not succeed under such circumstances ? How they have continued to exist at all is the wonder, considering the lot of nonsense that has been written about keeping them dry and feeding them with broken bricks. They flourish beautifully in compost suitable for a show geranium, or, indeed, in almost any ordinary potting-shed soil. It is the light and the brisk temperature during the summer that are required. As regards the winter treatment, there is a fallacy current that often causes the death of a rare kind, and that is that they do not require water for six or seven months of the year. Many a gardener would anathematize his young men for watering them later than October or earlier than the end of March, whereas, if kept in the right temperature, they enjoy au occasional dose of water all the year round. There is not the slightest occasion for keepiug them a whit drier than a good show geranium grower keeps his plants during the dull weeks of mid-winter. But they must be kept in a dry warm greenhouse, and in the warmer part of it, near the glass. Cold, or hard frost is fatal to a great many species. They rot off after a degree of cold which New Holland plants bear with impunity, and should as a rule never be kept in a house where the temperature sinks below the freezing-point, or, to be on the healthful side, say 40°. I have seen many rare kiuds, including the beautiful Mammillaria senilis, killed by frost. By the way, that is a kind which Sigma, who knows so well how to grow it, should possess. Nothing can exceed the beauty 296 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. of its white pellucid but dangerously hooked spines. It is rare, and I never had a good plant of it but from Mr. Atkins, of Painswick, the celebrated Cyclamen grower, though I dare say M. Pffersdorf will have a few, as he had mauy kinds of extraordinary rarity and value. His crested kinds, too, would surprise many of our raisers. Some of the Mammillarias assume the cockscomb form. These he grafts on some of the Cereus tribe in the way of hexagonus, and thus you may see many symmetrical green and fluted shafts crested with a white and densely spiny cockscomb of Mammillaria, which grows stronger on the Cereus than on its own roots, and forms one of the most striking objects in existence. Then, again, there are normal forms of the same kinds grafted on cylindrical stems of green Cacti, and forming a jutting round spiny nob on the end of the little green shaft, and putting it almost out of sight when looked down upon. Only fancy some of such with a corona of crimson buds — perhaps succeeded by bright scarlet fruit ! I have said before that to make a collection of such plants would be unwise, but there are many out of the neat lot enumerated by Sigma that will repay cultivation, and add a charming variety to the indoor department. Many Grasterias, Haworthias, and Apicras, for instance, are remarkably neat and singular in their habit ; some of the Euphorbias too, particularly the globular Euphorbias that sit on the pot like little melons placed on the soil, and are furnished with spines big enough for a Gleditschia, are most extraordinary. Then there is Echeveria metallica, now used as a bedding plant, and others, not to speak of such tiny and miscellaneous pets as Monathes polyphylla, some of the Crassulas with pink margined glaucous leaves, the ciliated and tabuliform sempervivums, and a host of other beauties. The best plan for the amateur about to commence their cultiva- tion is to go to Kew and have a quiet hour or two there in the Cactus house, and ten minutes in the Mesembryanthemum house, which contains a fine collection of this genus, not a few of which are of extraordinary shape and beauty, although, strange to say, the species that are met with in private gardens are usually the least remarkable and least interesting of the family. Then he should note down the neatest, most striking, and most diverse in each family, going regularly through the collection, taking care to put down no two species that approach each other, but, on the contrary, to pick the very cream of each genus that seems worthy of culture, and after- wards collect and cultivate them. As I have occasionally recom- mended plants in this journal which readers could not obtain from their nurserymen, it may be well to indicate where good kinds are to be bought. A few choice kinds may now and then be picked up in an old nursery, or even in the newest of nurseries, for I have seen a number in Messrs. Carter's nursery at Sydenham. A lot of neat and good kinds may be picked up for a mere trifle at Covent Garden — I mean the popular kinds supplied by M. Pffersdorf and sold by Hooper in the Middle Row ; and not a few others, even the corn- dealers, in some streets, keep them for sale. When I first noticed these little Cacti in London, I wondered where the deuce they came THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 297 from, never having seen anything like such fat and healthy little gentlemen iu any nursery, and seeing some for sale in a window in the Tottenham Court Road, went in to inquire the price, and to find out the grower's address, for I felt certain that there was some- thing to be seen wherever they came from. But though I put the query in the quietest and most careless way, the poor foolish soul would not tell me a word about it. She must have thought me about to set up in opposition ; in any case I could get nothing out of her but " That's a secret, sir." I think it was Mr. Kennedy, of Covent Garden, who directed me to South Row, Kensal New Town, and there indeed I have several times since found a lot of interest. I have no doubt that most of the really good dwarf Cacti may be found there in splendid health, and very cheap, though there are not a few plants of rare kinds not bigger than one's fist that are worth guineas. But many finely flowering Mam miliarias and others of the first quality may be had nearly as cheap as bedding stuff. There is one very pretty plant often seen among them, with blunt thick leaves of a glaucous pink, Pach/pluton bracteosum, that is very common in Covent Garden. It is one of the neatest of all suc- culents, and is propagated by the leaves, as many other kinds are by M. Pflersdorf's plant-grower — a German woman. The leaves are put on or into a box as thick as they can stand, and soon each displays a little bud at its base, which when a little developed is potted into one of those liliputian red pots, given a few months in a brisk heat and full light, and then they are ready for the market. I may add for the benefit of indoor gardeners that some of the dwarf aloes and gasterias will not only grow, but flower in a warm room, or even in a dark kitchen window. ANNUAL FLOWERS FOR THE CONSERVATORY IN THE SPRING. BY J. r. m'elrot, Head Gardener at Moray Lodge, Campden Hill. HE sowing of a few choice annuals in pots, which may be safely preserved during the winter months in the conservatory or greenhouse, is an important matter for those who wish for spring flowers. One of the chief evils to guard against in the after management is not to wet the foliage during dull, foggy, or frosty weather. In watering, the fault had better be on the side of too little than too much water, and let it be done in the morning, so that the conser- vatory is thoroughly dry by the evening. In recommending this list, my object is that the house shall be enlivened with a few flowers in the spring before such things as geraniums are in bloom. Besides, most of them, if you have them to spare, could be placed out of doors, and thus give your garden a gay appearance at a season of the year when the ordinary bedding plants are as yet not planted. 298 THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GAKDEN GUIDE. If the following are sown at once, and the directions attended to, the result will afford the grower much pleasurable satisfaction. The best plan will be to get together a quantity of 48-size or five-inch pots, and a lot of crocks ; and both pots and crocks should be clean. Almost any kind of mould will do, so long as it is not sour from frequent using, or by having any impure vegetable matter mixed with it. Let it be passed through a coarse sieve. The rough por- tions will do to use as drainage, by placing it over the crocks before you add the mould. It is better to add some silver-sand — say about an eighth part to the whole — incorporating it well with the mould, to assist to keep it in a state of purity and porous. In filling your pots, let it be to within about half an inch of the rim. When you have sown the seeds, place the pots in the shade till you observe the seeds vegetating, when at once remove them to the light near the glass. If you fail to adopt this precaution, no after-treatment will remedy the evil, because neglect in the first instance causes them to grow slender and weakly. As soon as you can, thin them out, but not finally, so that you may afterwards have recourse to a second thinning. The thinnings may be carefully potted, if you have not enough in pots already. Nemophila insigxis. — I have grown this well-known but beautiful annual in pots for several years for ornamenting the greenhouse in the spring. At one time, when prizes were offered for the best collection of annuals in pots at the spring exhibition of a local show, I have had only one plant cultivated in an eight-inch pot. Its size, and the largeness of the flower, produced a fiue effect, as it was trained to several sticks, in every way the same as a pelar- gonium. It well repays to grow it thus by frequent shifts ; it is only the idea of its being a common annual that deters us, and not its lack of beauty. For ordinary purposes, three good plants allowed to remain in a 48-size pot will suffice. A part of the plant as it grows may be trained to sticks, and the other allowed to hang over the pot. They are seen to great advantage when suspended in baskets, or otherwise, from the roof of the conservatory, their shoots trailing downwards. They are very subject to attacks of the green- fly ; keep them free from this pest, or it will soon weaken the energies of the plant. There are other varieties of this annual, with colours on white grounds, and speckled, affording a nice change, but they are nothing like so showy, or so thriving and robust in habit as ]¥. insignis. Colliksta bicolor. — This by judicious management can be grown into a fine specimen for spring decoration, and produce splendid racemes of flowers of two colours combined, purple and white. One plant in each pot, if they are very strong, would be sufficient; otherwise two or three, according to their respective strength. I have grown them to a size that they required eight and nine-inch pots for their final shift. Let the central shoot or stem be carefully trained as it grows, and the others as they need ; but in doing so, guard against their snapping by first attaching them to the main stem or stalk by short ties of bast. Candytuft, or Iberis. — The purple and white Rocket Candy- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 29!) tufts are very good when grown in pots from autumn-sown plants. Three plants in a pot will be sufficient. I have had single plants do remarkably well, especially when turned out of their pots into beds. The purple variety also produces good heads of blooms. Gilia capitata and tricolor. — The first of the two is a rather straggling grower, and tall, but can be so trained as to make a very good pot plant. Its singular heads of bloom make it very desirable as a change ; it can be grown either singly or three in a batch. The la^t being much more slender in habit, you may plant four or five plants of it in a pot, or less ; it blooms in abundance, and the colours of the flowers are very pleasing and attractive. Erysimum Peroffskianum. — The chief recommendation of this annual is its hardy constitution, and its colour being orange-yellow. Its habit is such that it will be seen to better advantage when there are four or five plants grown in a pot. Saponaria Calabrica. — This variety is very interesting and effective, producing in succession quantities of starry-shaped and pink-coloured flowers. Three plants will be sufficient for each pot. It is dwarf, and of a trailing habit. As a companion to the above, grow the lovely Forget-me-nots, Jli/osotis alpestris, M. alpestris alba, and M. sylvatica. CULTURE OF SELAGINELLAS. BY GEORGE FAIRBAIRX, Head Gardener, Sion House, Isleworth. HE extreme usefulness and beauty of this class of plants, and the numerous inquiries received for directions for their culture, must be my excuse for offering a few hints upon their management. They are the easiest managed plants that come within the province of the horticulturalist. There is, however, a right way and a wrong way, and I hope to put my readers in the proper track by offering a few useful suggestions. I shall not attempt to write an elaborate treatise, for the whole code of treatment can be told in a few words. There are two dis- tinct classes of Selaginellas, one having a soft herbaceous growth, and the other a semi-shrubby habit. Without noting this distinc- tion in passing, I should very likely lead my readers astray. The stock can be propagated and increased any day during the year, but the most suitable season is the period between February and November. The species partaking of an herbaceous growth, like apoda, denticulate, and formosa, root freely along the stem, and are therefore the easiest to propagate ; and the others, of which riticulosa and Wildenovii may be taken as a type, do not root, and require dividing in much the same way as a fern with a creeping rhizome, and, as a matter of course, more care must be exercised in their manipulation. 300 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. The whole of the species grow best in shallow pans, and as they have to grow in the same pans from the commencement, it is desirable to prepare them properly. Put two inches of crocks in the bottom, with a layer of rough pieces of peat over to keep the soil in its place, and then fill up with fibry peat and sand, and use the former in a rather rough state. Healthy species of the former, cut or broken off, arid pegged down on the surface, and the stem portion covered with sand, will speedily take root and start into growth. The species belonging to what I have termed the semi-shrubby sec- tion, must be carefully taken out of the pots, and divided into rather small pieces, and dibbled in regularly over the surface. In either case, place the pans in the most shady position the house affords, and keep a nice genial moisture about them by sprinkling the stages and floor several times during the day. If the pans can be covered with a bell-glass until the roots begin to take posses- sion of the fresh soil, it will facilitate the rooting process immensely. After they are nicely established more light and air will be neces- sary, but it must not be overdone, as this class of plants flourish with greater luxuriance in a rather close and shady position. If any signs of mildew or decay are perceptible in the close- growing kinds, like apoda, carefully remove the infected part, and sprinkle the specimen with dry sand, and keep rather dry for a time ; but on no account let them suffer for the want of water. When such sorts as dentieulata and formosa begin to have a starved appearance, sprinkle them with sufficient dry sandy peat to cover the surface to a depth of a quarter of an inch ; the young roots will soon take possession of this, and the plants resume their wonted vigour. Others, in the way of Wildenovii, must have a shift into larger pans. The division of which the last-mentioned species is a type requires more warmth and greater care than the others, but they are well worth the extra trouble. The winter temperature should average about 50", and nearly all will do well in the conser- vatory during the summer, provided, they can have a shady and close corner. The hardiest sorts are S. denticulata, S. apoda, S. helvetica, S. Poulteri, S. involvens, S. Martensi, and S. formosa. The most distinct of the more tender kinds are — S. ccesia (which must have shade to develope its metallic lustre), S.filicina, IS. Lyalli, S. viticu- losa, 8- Wildenovii, and S. Wallichii. THE NEW AZALEAS OF 1869. BY GEORGE GORDON. FULLY intended to have said something about the new varieties of the past season in my paper upon Azalea culture, in the last number of the Floral World, but it extended to a greater length than at first anticipated, and I felt bound to defer the consideration of the new varieties. Perhaps, after all, it was as well not to mix the notes THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 301 upon the new varieties with the cultural details, because one is intended for the beginner, and the other for the adept. It was not desirable to include them in the list of varieties recommended to be grown, because I should not, on any consideration, advise the inex- perienced to begin with new and expensive varieties, now that there are so many good sorts which can be had at the usual nursery price for established varieties. The descriptions are compiled from notes taken bv myself when the plants were in flower, therefore I am prepared to "undertake the whole of the responsibility of their being correct. The whole of the following, which are the best introduced to public notice this year, are from Mr. C. Turner, Slough. Suppose, then, we begin with La Superba. — A magnificent variety, with large, beautifully- shaped flowers of an intense vermilion-scarlet colour; the flowers are remarkably stout and waxy, and the top segments are beautifully spotted with rosy purple. Madame Van der Cruyssen. — This is, in shape, substance, and size, equal to the preceding, but differs in colour, the flowers being of a lovely shade of deep rose. Mrs. Turner. — A fine variety in every way, with large finely- formed flowers ; colour clear delicate salmon, margined with white, and upper segments beautifully spotted with purplish-crimson. President A. Versclutffelt. — Bright vermilion-scarlet, tinged with violet on top segments ; flowers large, beautifully made, and stout. George Eyles. — Brilliant orange-scarlet, with a few crimson spots on top segments ; a fine bold flower, but scarcely so smooth as the preceding. Eclante. — This is the richest-coloured variety in cultivation ; the colour being of the most intense crimson-scarlet. The flowers are, however, far from first-rate in shape ; but it is well worth growing for the richness of its colour. Frederick II — Rich orange- scarlet, beautifully spotted with rosy violet on top segments ; flowers large, well made, and of fine sub- stance, in the way of Stella, but far superior to that fine variety. La JBaix. — Fine-shaped waxy-looking flowers, of a beautiful deep purplish-rose colour, spotted with crimson on the upper seg- ments. Heine Marie Henriette. — The figure of this beautiful variety in last month's number will give all the necessary information as to the colour, etc. ; but, to make the list complete, I will describe it. The flowers are large in size, and of clear salmon-pink colour, with white margin, and spotted with crimson on the upper segments. There has not been such a fine batch of new varieties brought into notice in any one season for many years past, much less bv one exhibitor. They have, with but one or two exceptions, received first-class certificates from the Royal Horticultural and Botanic Societies, and are in every way worthy of Mr. Turner's well-earned reputation, and of which he may justly be proud. 302 SOLANUMS FOR WINTER DECORATION. EY ROBEKT OUEUIDGE, Church "Walk Nursery, Stoke Newington, N. T is with much pleasure that I comply with the request of numerous friends to give a few hints bearing upon the culture of this useful class of plants. This is not, perhaps, the most seasonable time for the purpose, because nothing can be done towards getting up a stock for next year before next February. It is, however, of little conse- quence, because everybody keeps the Floral AVoeld for reference, and it will be a matter of little difficulty to refer to this number when the time comes for commencing operations. My object in calling attention to the subject at tbis season is simply this : we grow them by the thousand for market, and, as the whole stock is now in splendid condition, people who choose to give themselves the trouble can call and ascertain whether I am qualified to be their teacher in this matter ; and also to give others, who are at present ignorant of the beauty and usefulness of the Solanum, an opportunity to form their acquaintance. These, then, are my reasons for dealing with the subject now, and I venture to say that I can show at this moment a stock of over four thousand, second to none in the country. I simply mention this to show that I know what I am writing about, and as an excuse for doing so. The old S. ccvpsicastrum, good as it is in its way, is far inferior to the strain known as WetlierilV s Hybrids, and therefore ought not to be grown. The latter have a more vigorous upright habit, with berries double the size, and have, therefore, a more bold and showy appearance. They were at one time offered by name, but, as the several varieties so closely resembled each other, the names have been done away with, and all are known under the above-mentioned title. There is a slight variation, certainly, in the plants in every batch of seedlings, but not sufficiently striking to entitle them to a sepai'ate name. It would be an easy matter to let the stock run back to the capsicastrum type, with careless selection of seed. I am especially particular upon this point, and only gather seed from those which have the largest berries and the most vigorous upright habit, and would strongly advi3e my readers to do the same, to prevent disappointment. The culture is exceedingly simple, as will be seen by the follow- ing directions, and it will not be out of place to observe that there is no material difference between the treatment of twenty, and twenty thousand. The larger growers have a certain advantage, because a whole house, or several houses, can be devoted exclusively to them, whereas the small grower has to grow them with other things. This advantage is, however, more seeming than real, as they are by no means difficult to handle, and the few wants they have can easily be complied with. A stock can be propagated both by seed and cuttings, but the THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 303 former method is attended with the least trouble, and is, therefore, to be recommended. Sow the seed early in February in shallow pans or boxes, according to the number required, in the same way as other seeds are sown. A mixture of loam and leaf-mould will be the most suitable for filling the pans, and also for covering the seeds. The seeds will soon vegetate in a temperature of about 50°, but the most suitable situation for the seed pans is that afforded by the cucumber-house. Where there is only a greenhouse tempera- ture, it will be well to defer the seed sowing until the first week in March, when, by covering the pans with a piece of glass, and placing them in the warmest corner, a stock can be easily raised. Where it is intended to get up a stock from cuttings, place a few old plants in a growing temperature of 55° about the middle of February, to furnish a supply of healthy cuttings by the second week in March. At the last-mentioned period take ofi" the growing points close under a joint, and dibble them in thickly in the cutting pot, and treat exactly the same as spring-struck verbena cuttings. After the seedlings are strong enough to handle, and the cut- tings nicely rooted, the treatment will be just the same; therefore, the following rules will be applicable to both. Pot off singly into small GO's before they are injured from crowding in the seed pan or cutting pot, and return to a genial growing temperature again. Water cautiously until the pots are full of roots, but lightly sprinkle them overhead twice a day. When the pots are full of roots, and before the plants become thoroughly pot-bound, shift into five or six inch pots. Ours are grown entirely in the former size, as that is the most suitable for window and table decoration, purposes for which they are admirably adapted. After the first week in May shift into a pit or frame, where they can be kept close to the glass, and receive regular attention. If the plants can have the assistance of a little artificial heat in very cold weather, during the first month of their probation, well and good ; if not, never mind. Sufficient protection must be afforded from frost, and much can be done by shutting up early to economize the sun-heat as much as possible. Syringe regularly twice a day, excepting in dull weather, and fumigate immediately the first aphis makes its appearance. Everything depends upon keeping the stock clean, and we make a practice of fumigating once a month, whether green-fly or thrip are perceptible or not. I am no believer in the wisdom of letting the plants be half ruined before applying the remedy ; besides, it is more economi- cal to fumigate lightly once a month, than it is to be compelled to fumigate heavily for two or three nights in succession. It is, how- ever, a difficult matter to make people believe this. A slight shade must be afforded the stock during the hottest part of the summer, but this can be easily effected by painting the glass with a thin coat of whitewash. After the pots are full of roots, a dose of weak manure water about twice a week will give increased vigour, and consequently a finer lot of berries. The pots must be set upon a thick bed of coal ashes, to prevent the worms getting through the bottom. Give plenty of air throughout the summer, but shut up early in the 304 THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. afternoon, and, if the thermometer runs up to 80' or 90°, so much the better, provided the atmosphere is saturated with moisture. Red spider are partial to these plants, but by following the fore- going directions, there will be no trouble with them. When the berries are nicely coloured, the plants can go to the conservatory, where they will be a source of attraction throughout the winter, and be useful to decorate the table whenever required. Standards can be obtained by training to single stem, and, after reaching the desired height, pinch out the top and stop back the young shoots to form a bushy head. To grow fine specimens, they ought not to be allowed to bear berries the first year, but be grown on without check, and, after a good winter's rest, pruned and started into growth, and potted on as directed for the management of the young stock. At the first shift reduce the ball, and repot in the same size again. Yery little need be said about soil, because two parts sound turfy loam, broken up rather roughly, and mixed with one part of well decayed cow-dung, is all that is required, excepting the addition of a little silver sand, when potted in the small 60's. A SELECTION OF ERUITS FOR THE ORCHARD-HOUSE. BY WILLIAM COLE, Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex. [NOWING- the difficulty under which the great body of fruit-growing amateurs labour, in not knowing which are the best sorts to grow, I have prepared a list specially adapted for the orchard-house. It shall not be a long list, because it is more satisfactory to have a few good-flavoured prolific sorts, than a host of varieties, half of which are comparatively useless. Some of the varieties of the fruits proper to the orchard-house have fruit large in size, handsome in appearance, and rich in flavour, but for all that are comparatively useless to small growers, because of the uncertainty attached to the production of a good crop, arising either from their shy bearing qualities, or the necessity of giving them special and skilful treatment. I would strongly urge my readers to adhere strictly to the undermentioned list, because it includes only the best, and as the principal varieties have a long string of synonymes, there is a chance of getting the same kind under different names. I would also advise the cultivator, when access can be had to a selection like this, which can be depended upon, not to leave the selection in the hands of the trade. The best kinds are always in demand, and as the mirseryman is bound to grow a few of all sorts, in case an order comes in for them, and if the comparatively worth- less sorts hang on hand, it is not too much to expect that, in making up the order, a few of them will be added. It would be against THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 305 human nature for the temptation to be resisted. Besides, the nur- seryman may grow fine healthy trees, but it does not follow as a matter of course that he knows exactly which are best suited for indoor culture. There are exceptions to this, and some of the members of the trade are the best pomologists in the country. Apkicots. — These require much the same treatment as the cherries and plums, and must have an abundant circulation of air about them whenever the weather will admit of the ventilators beinc opened. The best are : — Kaisha. — Prolific and fine-flavoured, ripening a fortnight before the Moorpark. Moorparle. — One of the best apricots, being both prolific and richly-flavoured. Cherries. — These must not be hurried with artificial heat, or every bloom will refuse to set, and drop off. Of these select : — Bigarreau Frog-more 'Early. — A fine variety, of delicious flavour, ripening a fortnight before the old Bigarreau. Bigarreau Napoleon. — A prolific variety, producing large well- flavoured fruit. Black Circassian. — Large and rich-flavoured, and very prolific ; one of the very best. May Duke. — A first-rate well-known sort. Grapes. — Although I said nothing in my communication of last month about planting vines, good grapes can be grown in the same house as the other fruits. I have proved it over and over again ; but they must not, however, be planted close enough together to seriously impede the light. A distance of ten or twelve feet apart, if grown with a single rod, and pruned on the close spur system will do no harm. The best for a cool house are : — Black Hamburgh. — A well-known variety that needs no comment. Buckland Sweetwater. — First-rate in every way, and second to none for this purpose. Royal Muscadine. — Also good in every way. Nectarines require exactly the same treatment as the peach. The best selection, to prolong the season, and named in the order in which they reach maturity, is as follows : — Rivers' Early Orange. — A good variety of the Pitmaston Orange type, but earlier. EIruge. — Fruit large, handsome, and richly-flavoured; a very free bearing variety. Violette Hative. — The best nectarine for indoors, being first-rate in every way. Peacties. — I shall follow the same plan, and name only a few of the best, in the order of ripening : — Early York. — Valuable for its earliness, and well-flavoured. Qrosse Mignonne. — Pruit large, richly-flavoured, and handsome ; and the tree a good cropper. Royal George. — One of the best-flavoured and most prolific peaches in cultivation. Bellecjarde. — Gcod in every way, and keeps well after being gathered. vol. iv. — no. x. 20 30G THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Violette Hative. — A fine, prolific, richly-flavoured variety, and one that can always be depended upon for producing a satisfactory crop. Plums. — I should only advise the planting of this fruit in the orchard-house, for the purpose of being able to gather earlier than from the open walls. In the north, where the finest plums do not attain perfection on the open walls, a larger proportion may be planted indoors. Avgeline Burdett. — A finely-flavoured dark purple variety. Coe's Golden Drop. — The best late plum in cultivation, being remarkably rich when quite ripe. Green Gaffe, July. — An early variety of the old Green Gage, ripening in July, and equal to the old form in flavour. Jefferson. — A fine, free bearing, delicious-flavoured yellow plum. Kir ike's. — Very prolific, handsome, and well-flavoured. Seine Claude Violette. — One of the best-flavoured purple plums, and a good bearer. SELECT HERBACEOUS PLANTS. No. I.— THE PHLOX. BY GEOEGE GEAY, Head Gardener, Norbiton Hall, Kingston-on-Thames. HAVE never been an advocate for indiscriminately collecting any class of plants, because it is likely to do the class to which they belong more harm than can easily be imagined. There are, it is true, many beauti- ful herbaceous plants besides the few which I shall deal with in these papers ; and it must also be admitted that there are many which are little better than weeds : and to grow both good and bad is likely to lead inexperienced people into the idea that herba- ceous plants are little better than rubbish. I shall confine myself to those genera which are first-rate, and capable, with proper treat- ment, of producing a most brilliant display, that would at once satisfy the connoisseur and arrest the attention of the superficial observer. All that I shall say anything about will do well under ordinary careful treatment, as will be seen by the following direc- tions. We will take first the Phlox, because it is perhaps the most beautiful of all herbaceous plants. There are scores of fine varieties which can be had for a few shillings per dozen; yet the old common white and lilac varieties are the only sorts that are to be met with in any quantity. I have no desire to unduly praise this flower, or persuade any of my readers to devote half their garden to its cul- ture ; but I would fain persuade them to set apart a small portion of it — say a bed, or a part of a flower-border, large enough to hold a dozen fine plants — and then do them justice. Where this is done, I venture to predict the uprooting of a large quantity THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 307 of things which are perhaps little better than rubbish in comparison, to make room for a more extended collection. Although these remarks are not intended for people who have a good collection and know how to manage it, I will offer a few hints upon propagating them, to enable those who are wise enough to take my advice, and buy in a few, to increase the stock afterwards. The most simple way to increase the Phlox is to take the old stools up and divide them into so many pieces, and plant again ; but that is by no means the best way, nor must it be followed where pot- plants or spikes for exhibition are required. The cuttings can be struck at almost any time, from the period of the plants starting into growth until they sink to rest again. The spring is, however, the most suitable, because the cuttings strike with a greater degree of certainty at that season than at any other. Lift the stools, and after potting them carefully, place in a frame with a growing tem- perature of about 50'. This will start them into growth, and the young tops, as soon as they are long enough, can be taken off and dealt with in the same way as a verbena. These, if potted off, and planted out in May, will flower well the following autumn. At other times, the small non-flowering shoots, which are generally plentiful enough, will strike under a hand-glass, or in a cold frame, although they root more quickly in a gentle bottom-heat, such as would be afforded by the cutting-pots being plunged in a cucum- ber-bed. Pots known as 48's are the most convenient size for using, and they require to be well drained, and the soil should have a layer of silver-sand on the surface. Almost any time during the winter and spring will do for dividing them, but just as they are starting into growth is to be preferred. Take the stool up, and with a sharp spade split off the outside shoots, in clumps of three or four together, and destroy the centre-piece. Division is the best system for amateurs who have little or no knowledge of propagating matters, as there is no possibility of failure, and good spikes of bloom can be had. The stools, when divided, should be planted at once in the same or fresh quarters, as may be most convenient. In either case, let the ground be dug up deeply, and a good dressing of rotten dung or leaf-mould applied ; and if the soil is of a heavy, tenacious' nature, six inches of road- scrapings spread over the surface, and thoroughly mixed with the soil, will be of great service. "With few exceptions, the varieties vary so little in height that very little can be done in arranging them with respect to it ; but much can be done in a tasteful disposition of the colours. Where it is desired to excel in the culture of the Phlox, plant those struck in the spring at a distance of eighteen inches apart, and, early in the following February, take the whole lot up, and dig the border, and replant at a distance of three feet apart. At the end of the follow- ing autumn, the two-year-old plants must be taken up and destroyed, or set aside for propagating a fresh stock the following year ; and the one-year plants put in their places to make room for the spring- struck stuff. By this system, the tallest plants are kept at the back and the short ones in the front, as old plants generally grow double the height of the young ones. Less ambitious cultivators may have 308 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. a fine display of flowers, by simply splitting the stools into pieces and replanting the most vigorous portions early in February. They may remain for several years without being disturbed, provided a little manure is pricked in during the winter. la dry weather, a few thorough soakings of water will assist the plants wonderfully ; and, to prevent a rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil, mulch with six inches of half-rotten manure. A somewhat sheltered posi- tion is desirable, and the flower-spikes must be secured to stout stakes, to prevent sudden gusts of wind snapping them off. They also make desirable subjects for conservatory decoration. For pot-culture, shift them on during the first summer, until they reach six or eight-inch pots, according to the strength of each indi- vidual plant. Let them flower in these, and, after that is over, plunge the pots in leaf-mould or ashes, to prevent the soil drying up quickly, and the frost splitting the pots during the winter. When they start into growth in the spring, remove a portion of the soil from round the outside of the ball, and repot in nine-inch pots. These will flower superbly, and make grand specimens, if properly attended to with water, and the stems thinned down to four or five of the strongest stems. Those in the open border ought also to have the flower-stems thinned down to four or five to each specimen. The following varieties are really magnificent, every one being first-class, and comprise the creme de la creme of the principal trade collections in the country. There are other good varieties, but these are the most distinct in the several colours, and were selected when in flower from two of the best collections in existence ; and without desiring to be egotistical, I am certain that a better lot could not be had : — Aurantiaca Superba. — Fine orange red, with deep crimson centre. Boule de Neige. — The best white, the individual flowers and trusses being unusually large and fine. Comtesse de Ghambord. — White suffused with pink, and crimson centre. Czarina. — Fine dwarf white, grand for pots. Dr. Parnot. — Vermilion, shaded with rose ; centre bright red. Gloire de Neuilly. — Vermilion, with crimson centre. Sector Bouillard. — Rosy crimson, with centre a few shades deeper in intensity. La Candeur. — AVhite, with bright crimson centre. Lady E. Home. — White, with purple centre. La Comtesse de Turenne. — White, with purple centre ; fine and distinct. Liervalii. — Rose, beautifully striped with white. Madame Berniaux. — Fine deep rosy crimson. Madame Damage. — Pure white, with violet crimson centre. Madame Godefroy. — Deep rosy purple, with crimson centre. Madame Lierval. — Rich carmine, with crimson centre. Madame Marian Saison. — Delicate blush, with lake centre. Madlle. Ataer. — White, flushed with rose ; centre bright red. Mrs. Austin. — White, with deep crimson eye ; very fine. TILE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 309 Monsieur G. Henderson. — Greyish rose, with purple centre. Mons. Linden. — Bright crimson, with strong glow of salmon ; remarkably bright and telling. Mons. Marin Saison. — Fine rosy crimson, with fine rich eye. Professor Koch. — Bright red, shaded with vermilion. The Deacon. — Rich rosy purple, with fine crimson eye. Virgo Marie. — Pure white, with purple centre, immense flowers and truss. DAGGER OF GAS-LIME IN GARDENS AND PLANTATIONS. BY DR. T. L. PHIPSOX, F.C.S., Member of the Chemical Society of Paris, etc. IT. ia not unusual for gardeners to place a layer of gas- lime as a bed for the gravel of garden walks and terraces. I have seen it used recently on rather a large scale in this manner. It appears that it checks or prevents, for a very long time, the growth of grass and weeds on the newly-gravelled walks, so that they look new and clean for a considerable period, extending over one, two, or more "seasons." I have also seen gas-lime spread over the surface of old gravel walks in order to hill patches of grass and weeds, etc. These operations, especially the former, are very dangerous to the larger trees and shrubs in the neighbourhood. Gas-lime is lime which has been used to purify street gas, and it has absorbed a certain number of highly poisonous ingredients. The chief of these are sulphocyanide of calcium, sulphocyanide of ammonium, sulphide of calcium, a green and a blue compound of iron and lime contain- ing sulphur and nitrogen, besides certain hydrocarbons similar to benzole, naphthaline, creosote, and carbolic acid, etc., which are highly injurious to vegetation. Recently I have seen two fine cedar trees, and some smaller fir trees of various kinds, attacked by the noxious influence of gas- lime, spread under the gravel walks of a large garden about five months ago. One of the cedars began to recover after an interval of four months ; but the other still appears with blackened leaves, and to all appearance quite dead. It is doubtful whether it will recover. The large roots of these trees spread under the gravel walks in all directions, and the poisonous compounds contained in the gas-lime, some of which are very soluble, are carried down to them by the rain. As soon as they come in contact with the roots, the effects produced are almost as sudden as those of lightning. Cedars, and certain kinds of Abies, appear to be particularly sensitive in this respect. On gravel walks, treated as above, large blood-red patches appear in the course of a month or two ; they are caused by sulphocyanide of iron, which results from the union of the sulphocyanic acid of the gas-lime with the iron oxide contained in the gravel. Sometimes 310 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. green or bluish green patches of another iron compound containing sulphur are also seen spreading over the surface of the gravel. In spreading a layer of gas-lime as a bed for new gravel to be laid upon, care should be taken that the thickness of this layer does not amount to one inch at most ; and in emptying carts of it in the garden, the heap should be placed at a great distance from valuable trees or shrubs ; for not only does its poison sink into the ground with the rain, but a considerable amount of sulphuretted hydrogen gas is constantly evolved from it, and this gas is also highly poisonous both to animals and plants. Laboratory of Analytical Chemistry, Putney, S.W., Sept. 1869. CULTURE OP THE MUSHROOM. UN an elaborate article in the Field, Mr. Robinson reviews all the methods practised and recommended in the cultivation of the mushroom, and ai rives at the following conclusions : — 1. That very careful pieparation and frequent turning over of the manure under cover are not necessary to success, and that it is quite needless to prepare the manure under cover except when it is gathered in very small quantity, so that a heavy rain or snow would saturate it. But, as it is in the earlier autumn months that it is generally gathered for mushroom beds, there is usually little need of putting it under cover. 2. That carefully picked droppings are not essential, though they may be more convenient. Excellent crops are gathered from beds made with ordinary stable manure, droppings and long materials mixed as they come ; but when the manure is used as it comes from the stable, it should be allowed to ferment before being used. 3. That the best way of preparing manure for the general culture of mushrooms indoors is to gather it in some firm spot, and allow it to lose its fierce heat. As it is usually gathered in an irregular way, precise directions as to turning over cannot well be given ; but we are convinced that one turning will suffice when it has arrived at a strong heat, and then it should be thrown together for a week or so, when, in being disturbed and removed to make the bed or beds, its strong heat will be sufficiently subdued. Where large quantities of stable manure are in a ferment- ing state, there should be little difficulty in selecting material to form a bed at any time. Should it have spent its heat overmuch, it would be easy to vivify it with some fresh droppings. 4. That stable manure may be used when fresh, but that it should be used as short and as dry as possible, and then always mixed with more than a fourth of good loamy soil. If this be kept under cover, or stacked so that it may be had in rather a dry condition, so much the better, especially if the fresh manure, etc., should be too moist. Beds made thus are most suited for cool sheds and the open gardens. 5. That a portion, say nearly one-fifth to one-third, of good and rather dry loam may always be advantageously mixed with the stable manure ; the fresher the materials, the more loam to be used. In all cases it. helps to solidify the bed, and it is probable that the addition of the loam adds to the fertility and duration of the bed. 6. That a thickness of one foot for the beds in an artificially heated house is quite sufficient. Fifteen or eighteen inches will not be too much for beds made in sheds, though we have seen excellent crops on beds only a foot thick iu common sheds with leaky sides. All beds made indoors should be flat and firmly beaten down, though the absence of firmness is not, as some think, sufficient to account for want of success. 311 THE LADIES' GABDEN.— No. IX. BY J. C. CLAUSE, Head Gardener at Cothelston House, Taunton. SWEET-WILLIAMS AND INDIAN PINES. iHE tribe of plants to which these two subjects belong, and the carnation and picotee which formed the subject of my last article, are perhaps the most useful class of plants for the lady's garden, considering that many of them are quite hardy, and numbers of others nearly so. In the gardens here we have large spaces devoted to such and similar subjects, and although, for the sake of variety, there are in these mixed borders a great number of plants of all kinds, it would be hard to find another tribe so easy as this to grow, and yet so valuable for their continuous flowering. Taking the Dianthus harhatus (or Sweet- William) first, it may be said that there is nothing in the whole garden more easy to manage than this, and when a nice variety of colour is obtained, few things are prettier. It is very much in their favour that they are indifferent as to soil and position, -for they will grow and flower superbly either on a suuny bank or under the shade of a north wall. The better the soil, the better will they grow. The only position in which I have not yet succeeded successfully with them is under the drip of trees. Eor a mixed border there are but few things that will beat them ; but much of course will depend upon the par- ticular strain the cultivator has secured. Probably the best is " Hunt's Strain," for the colours of his flowers are chaste and beautiful, and they are usually fine in form. The exquisite markings of some of the flowers may be compared to the wings of the very handsomest of our British butterflies ; the lovers of natural history will quite understand the value of these flowers, to be worthy of such a comparison. To keep up a good stock of Sweet-Williams, it is necessary to' sow seed every year. Sow very thin in an open border in June. If they come up too thick, thin them out to four inches apart ; there let them remain until the next October, when they must be put out to where they are intended to flower. When they have ceased flowering they should be pulled up and thrown away ; for after a damp or severe winter old plants usually become worthless, and even if they survive the winter, they have a ragged and untidy appearance. According to my experience of this tribe of plants, or rather of those that are increased by seed every year, there are none so liable to degenerate from their original characters. This is of course owing to a number of varieties being grown in the same garden, where, through the action of insect life, they undoubtedly get mixed up, the bad ones dragging the good down to their own low level. As a proof of this I may instance that particular variety of Dianthus Chinensis called Heddeiuigi. That was a fine subject 312 TEE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. eight or ten years ago. It seldom grew more than eight inches high, and with single flowers that would cover a crown-piece. For the last two years, with me, the same variety, or rather the one so named, has grown eighteen inches high, with single flowers, but little larger than a shilling-piece. I mention this fact to show the reader that it is not advisable to save seed at home if any number of varieties are allowed to flower together. As a rule, those who grow seed for the public never grow more than one variety in the same spot, and from their plants they remove and destroy all that are of inferior character. All the varieties of Dianthus Chinensis, or Indian Pink, are useful either for beds or mixed borders. For small beds they are certainly well adapted, as they are of neat habit and continuous bloomers, and less affected by winds and rain than many other things. But perhaps it is in the mixed border where they are seen to best advantage. The eclectic cultivator will say they are beautiful anywhere, for we have few flowers that can compete with them for depth and richness of colour. Moreover, they are so easily grown that there is really no excuse if the poorest managed garden does not possess them, as something new in this way is always welcome. I can recommend a beautiful variety of the Chinensis section, called denticulatum. It was obtained from a continental source, and I hope will be soon distributed. Anything more beautiful in the same class of flowers I have never seen. It produces double and single flowers from the same packet of seed, and even my old favourite Chinensis Heddewigi, with all its brilliancy and richness of colour, will not bear comparison with it. If the winter is not very severe, old plants of Indian Pink will stand in the open border ; but although they flower earlier the next year than seedlings, they are not so useful, as the old plants are loose in growth. Those who have not the convenience of bottom- heat in spring in which to sow the seed, may do so at once, rather thinly in shallow pans. Place the pans at once on a warm shelf in the greenhouse. If the soil is kept only just moist enough for the seed to vegetate, they will be up in a month, when they must be very carefully watered, and not allowed to remain too thick in the seed pans, or they will be liable to damp off. They will want a moderate amount of air as they get stronger, and this can be accomplished by placing them near to some ventilator ; so that really more air will not be required to be given than what will suit the other occupants of the house. Autumn-sown plants may be planted out very early in May ; but those sown in heat in March will flower the earlier if they are nursed on in the frame for a fortnight later. After they are once established in the beds, say in a month after they have been planted, if the soil is really not light and sandy, they will take care of themselves in respect to water ; for there are very few classes of plants that will stand hot weather so well as all the tribe of Dianthuses. This is much in their favour where labour or water is scarce. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 313 Biantlws deltoides rubra and D. gigantea are two plants admirably adapted for rock-work, or, indeed, for any dry sunny places. I hope this brief notice of these very useful plants may be the means of promoting their more extended cultivation in the lady's garden. THE " SELBY " FRUIT AND ELOWER GATHERER. ESSRS. Dick Eadclyffe and Co., High Holborn, have recently introduced to public notice these useful and ingeniously constructed fruit and flower gatherers. Their shape and general appearance will be readily seen by the accompanying woodcut ; therefore nothing need he said upon that point. Attached to the cutting blade is a strong spring, which retains by a firm grip whatever may happen to have been severed from the tree, whether it be a bunch of grapes or a sprig of flowers, until laid in the basket held in the other hand. They are strong and well-finished, and the small size will carry a weight of three or four pounds, and the large size nearly double that. They are also .made with long handles, forgathering fruit or flowers which cannot be reached without a ladder. For the latter purpose they are doubly valuable; for apart from the labour in bringing a ladder to the desired spot, the trees are frequently not strong enough to support it without injury. The Death of Mr. Robert Thomson, of Chiswick. — It is a painful duty which compels us to announce the death of this veteran horticulturist, who has laboured so long and so earnestly in the advancement of the science of which he was so worthy a representative. Few men have laboured with such disinterestedness, or exhibited such thorough perseverance in the prosecution of their labours, as the author of the "Gardener's Assistant," or who will b£ held in higher estimation by the whole of the gardening community. 314 NEW PLANTS. jALCEOLARIA HENRICI, Mr. Anderson- Henry' s Calceolaria (Bot. Mag., t. 5772). — A hardy calceolaria, native of Quito. The leaves are three to five inches lon<>, the flowers of the same size as those of the shrubby calceolarias of our gardens, their colour pale yellow. A decidedly interesting plant. Crotalaria Cunninghami, Allan Cunningham's Crotalaria {Bot. Mag., t. 57 70). — A curious leguminous greenhouse plant, native of the dry regions of Central Australia. The flowers are of a sombre yellowish green colour. Eranthemum Andersoni, Dr. Anderson's Eranthemum (Bot. Mag., t. 5771). — A beautiful stove plant, producing grand spikes of butterfly-like flowers, which are white, sprinkled with purple dots. Caryota Ctjmingi, Mr. Cuming's Wine-palm (Bot. Mag., t. 5762). — A fine palm, which has been in the Royal Gardens many years. Being extremely elegant, and of comparatively small growth, it is welL adapted for such collections of fine foliage plants as amateurs indulge in. K^mpferia Parishi, Mr. Parish's Kampferia (Bot. Mag., t. 5763). — A beautiful stove herb, producing its flowers before the leaves. Iris stylosa, Long-styled Iris (Bot. Mag., t. 5773).— A charming spring-flowering iris, native of Algeria. The leaves are grass-like, the flowers large, the colour delicate porcelain blue, with yellow bands and spots. Cordia glabra, Smooth- leaved cordia (Bot. Mag., t. 5774). — A handsome Brazilian stove plant, with rich green rho- dodendron-like leaves and snow- white flowers. Cereuslividus,Zj'umZ Cereus (Bot. Mag., t. 5775).— A mag- nificent species of columnar growth, and one of the most striking plants in the succulent house at Kew. Its enormous flowers are of a creamy- white colour, tinted with pale yellow. Crocus Obphanides, Prof. Orphanides' Crocus (Bot. Mag., t. 5776). — A lovely Grecian crocus. The flowers are of a delicate lilac blue colour. They are produced in a cool frame in November. Azalea linearifolia, Slender-leaved Azalea (Bot. Mag., t. 5769). — A remarkable Japanese plant, with long narrow leaves and flowers, with linear segments, free to the base. It is extremely pretty, the heads of flowers being numerous and of a cheerful pink hue. Pelargonium Schotti, Dr. Schott's Pelargonium (Bot. Mag., t. 5777). — A free-growing species, nearly related to the P. charophyllum of Sweet. The leaves are deeply-lobed and much crisped and toothed ; the flowers are small ; the colour crimson, with black dots. CABrOTA. CU1IINGI. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 315 Odontoglossum Krameiu, Kramers Odontoglot (Bot. Mag., t. 5778).— A splendid species, the petals and sepals delicate creamy-white, the lip light mauvy purple. Rlaxdfordia Ctxxixghami, Allan Cunningham's Blandfordia (Bot. Mag., t. 5734). — A fine Australian liliaceous plant, introduced hy Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son. The scape rises two or three feet high, and con- tains from fifteen to twenty flowers of a fine deep yellow colour, shading to orange red. It requires no parti- cular care to flower it perfectly in the greenhouse, and, as it produces abundance of seed, it can be easily multiplied. Styrax japonica (Gartenflora, t. 583). — Styraceje. A pretty hardy shrub, growing four to six feet high, with elegantly spreading branches, hearing a profusion of white flowers, resembling snowdrops, from the points of the young branchlets. COMBRETUM MICROPETALUM, Small-petaled Combretum (Bot. Mag., t. 5617). — A magnificent climber, native of Brazil. It flowers in the stove in September, pro- ducing a profusion of blossoms cha- racterized by their numerous long yellow stamens, which give to the racemes the appearance of so many brushes. BLA2JDF0RDIA CUNNINGHA1II. Tyd.£A Lixdexiana (Gartenflora, 1868, t. 582). — Gesneraceas. A handsome stove perennial, introduced from tropical America. Oxcidium gtrobulbox (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 838).— Orchidacece. Merely a bota- nical curiosity. Oncidium hyph^maticum (Gard. Chron., I860, p. 814). — Orchidacese. A pretty showy Oncidium, worthy the attention of cultivators. Cypripedium Parishii, the Rev. Mr. Parish's Lady's Slipper (Bot. Mag., t. 5791). — A superb species, belonging to the Indian section, of which C. insigne is the type. The flowers are yellowish green, with the exception of the two long sepals, which are stained deep purple. Primula pedemoxtaxa, Piedmontese Primrose (Bot. Mag., t. 5794). — One of a lovely series of Swiss Alpine Primulas of the Auricula group. The leaves are produced in rosettes, from two to three inches in diameter, and close to the ground, profuse bloomer, the flowers being of a rich rose-purple colour. C01IBEETU1I MICIiOPETALUM. This 31 G THE GARDEN GUIDE. Bah.— 29-87. Thkh.— 59, 41, 50. } ©ctofcer. Wind— S., S.W., W. Rain. — 274 in. to 3 in. Greenhousr Flowebs. — Ahutilon Due de Malakoff, Erica Austini, Witsenia corymbosa, Broicultia ccerulea. Fuchsias, Tactonia Van Volxemi, Plumbago capen- sis, Passiflura raeemosa, P. Colviilii, Sal- via splendent, Dyckia altissima. Garden Flowebs. — New EDgland Staiwort, Aster Nova Anglia, A.pulcher- rima; Glaucous Lily, Tritoma glauees- eens; Foot-leaved Violet, Viola pedata, V. lutea grandiflora ; Coreopsis grandi- Jlora ; Liatris pyenostachys, L. spicata ; Kosy Catchfly, Silene Nchqfta, Zausch- neria Californieum. The Weather. — October is usually moist and mild ; but changeable, and varying suddenly from calm to storm, and from soft sunshine to dienching rains. About the 20th, we usually have a taste of irosl. Flower Garden. — After the middle of tbe month the summer bedders have such a wretched appearance, that the sooner they are cleared off after that time the better. Where spring gardening is carried out, the beds ought to be cleared soon, and then filled with the plants for spring flowering. This is necessary to enable them to make a fresh growth, and get established in their new quarters before the weather gets too cold, and stops their progress. A good display of spring flowers can be got up for such a trifling amount of skill and labour, that no flower-garden ought to be bare of flowering plants during April and May. The best things for spring bedding are Silene, Wallflowers, Forget-me-nots, Arabis, Alyssum, Aubrietias, Pansies, and Iberis, and spring bulbs. Good selections of the cheapest and best for the open border were given in the number for last month, therefore nothing further need be said about them here. The late Tulips must not be planted until next month, and the Anemones and Kanunculuses are as well out of the ground until next February. Both these subjects prefer well-pulverized soil, and the beds which they are intended to occupy ought to be dug over at once, and the surface left rough, to give the weather greater power to act upon it. Plant every kind of hardy herbaceous plant from the cutting-pot or seed-bed. Take up and pot all zonate and variegated geraniums which aie intended to be preserved during the winter, for they seldom do much good after exposure to several sharp frosts. The dead foliage can be removed ; but avoid breaking or cutting the branches, as spring is the best time for pruning them. Place under shelter, and protect from, frost ; but at all other times ventilate freely, and give little water until the turn of the winter, when they will be established in the soil. Securely stake Chrysanthemums both in pots and the open borders, to prevent injury from winds. Tie out in a natural manner, and avoid the wretched system of using one stake, and tying all the growth into a bundle round it. Take up Dahlia tubers as soon as the tops are dead, and spread them out separately in a cool dry place to get thoroughly dry before storing for the winter. This important point is frequently lost sight of, and a mass of rotten pulp in the spring is the consequent result. It is also necessary to protect from frost, by covering them with dry hay or litter in severe weather. The Bulbous Flowers. — Crinum crassifo- lium ; Autumn Crocus, Colchicum auttim- nale, C. afro - purpurea ; Hippeastrum Banksianum, liabranthus Bugnoldi, II. nobilis, Nerine fltxuosa, Zilium Walli- chianum, Calostemma luteum, Amaryllis crocata, A. Fsittaeina. Stove Flowers.— Begonia Ingramii, B. insignis, Thunbergia laurifolia, Pentas cornea, Allamanda grandifiora, Cuttleya labiata* Pleione layenaria* Cypripedium renustum,* Oncidium ornilhurynckum,* O. roseum,* Laelia Marya/ui* Lycaste plana* "The heavens are Thine, the earth also is Thine : as for the world and the fulnesi thereof, Thou hast founded them. The north and the south, Thou hast created them." — Psalm Ixxxix. 11. THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GDIDE. 817 planting of deciduous trees and shrubs must be pushed on vigorously, and if done carefully, all moderate-sized specimens will scarcely feel the shift. This is also a good time for transplanting evergreens, if not done as advised earlier in the autumn. Greenhouse. — House at once every description of plants requiring shelter under glass during the winter. This is particularly necessary in the case of Azaleas, Camellias, Epacris, and other hard-wooded plants, or the heavy rains will drench the soil and do an immense amount of injury, by soddening the soil at a time when the plants are unable to absorb it. Sadden changes must be avoided, and all the air possible must be admitted in favourable weather. The stock of Gauntlet Pelargonium, if well established, and now placed in a genial growing temperature of 55°, and kept near the glass, will maintain a supply of cut flowers throughout the winter. The plants must be strong and well-rooted, or it will be a waste of time to force them. Shift the earliest batch of show Pelargoniums into pots one size larger, and keep the whole of the stock near the glass, and free from insect pests and mildew. Fumigate with tobacco, or tobacco paper, or dust with tobacco powder, on the first appearance of green-fly or thrip, and dust with sulphur immediately mildew begins to develop itself. Cinerarias and Herbaceous Calceolarias will require the same treatment in this respect. Primulas for early flowering will be materially benefited by being placed in a genial growing temperature of 50', later batches will make good progress in a temperature five degrees lower ; avoid a damp atmosphere. Dry off Cannas and Fuchsias ready for wintering in a dry outhouse, where they can be securely pro- tected from frost. In case of a spell of damp weather towards the end of the month, apply a little fire-heat, early in the day, to dry up the dampness, and change the air within the house. Stove. — All except the winter-flowering plants will have completed their growth, and, therefore, require less heat and moisture than hitherto. Euphorbias, Thyrsacan- thus, Poinsettias, flowering Begonias, Lueulias, and Gesneras, must have every en- couragement to enable them to complete their growth quickly. The temperature of the orchid-house must also be considerably reduced, and Cattlej^as and Dendrobes have very little water. Kitchen Garden. — Much anxiety and disappointment might be avoided during the summer, if proper care and attention were paid to this department at this season. Trench and ridge tip all vacant quarters that are not to be occupied during the winter. This will give the soil, brought up from the bottom of the trench, ample opportunities to be thoroughly pulverized. Where the second spit is unfit for bring- ing to the top, open out a trench in the ordinary way; but simply break it up, and leave it in the bottom of the trench. Remove stems of Asparagus, dress the beds with rotten manure, and cover with a few inches of soil from between the alleys. Capsicums and Tomatoes, still unripe, must be gathered and laid out singly in a dry room or warm greenhouse to ripen. Take up and store Carrots, Beet, and Potatoes ; the Parsnips are as well left in the ground for the present, but on the approach of severe frost, it is well to lift a few for immediate use. Lettuce and Endive fit for • use must either be lifted and laid in by their heels, or be protected from frost and damp with hand-glasses, ground vineries, or cloches. Tie up successional batches, and choose a dry day for the operation. Towards the end of the month is a capital time for making fresh plantations. Let the ground be well-manured and trenched, and a moist situation selected if possible. Fruit Garden. — Raspberries, and Currant and Gooseberry bushes, may be planted towards the end of the month, and cuttings of the two last-named fruits struck if desirable. Remove eyes that will be below the surface, and open out a trench six inches deep, and lay the cuttings in at a distance of four inches apart, and fill in, and tread the soil firm. Gather Apples and Pears as fast as they are suffi- ciently advanced. Keep the early and late ripening varieties as far apart as practi- cable, to prevent tlte exhalations arising from the former interfering with the keeping qualities of the latter. Trench and prepare fruit borders for planting as soon as possible, so that there may be no loss of time in planting the trees. Pits and Frames. — Give plenty of air to bedding stuff, and pot up geraniums struck in the open border, before they get too firmly established, or be caught by the frost. They can be potted either singly, or three in each three-inch pot. The last mentioned plan is the best, because when they are potted off singly they start away, and grow vigorously up to the time of their being turned out into their summer quarters. Auriculas and Pansies must have plenty of air, and careful watering. In fine open weather draw the lights off entirely, but on no account must the stock 318 THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. be exposed to rains. Keep a sharp look out for mildew and green-fly, and dust with sulphur for the former, and fumigate for the latter. Forcing. — Pints swelling their fruit require plenty of moisture, and a close warm corner ; but those just ripening require a light open position, with plenty of air to develop the flavour. There will be some difficulty in complying with the require- ments of both in the same bouse ; but much may be done by judicious arrange- ment. Grapes that are to hang for any length of time must be kept dry and cool, therefore all plants underneath must be removed, and a little fire-heat used in damp weather. The house must not, however, be overheated, or the berries will shrivel. Open the ventilators as wide as possible, in peach and orchard-houses, at all times, unless they are used for protecting bedding and other plants ; in that case take advantage of every favourable opportunity for air-giving. See to inside borders, and water if necessary. Of course the soil must not be kept so wet as when the trees are in full growth ; but if allowed to get dust- dry, the buds will drop off wholesale directly the trees begin to start into growth in the spring. Strawberries intended for forcing must be protected from the heavy rains. A cold frame, or orchard-house is the best place for them after the end of the month. Laying the pots on their sides, one above the other, so as to form a ridge, is also a capital plan for dealing with them when house or frame room is scarce. HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS. Murder of Miss Tinne, in Africa. — We regret to announce the death of this heroic lady, who, in conjunction with two of her attendants, fell a victim to the treachery of some camel-drivers, in the midst of her useful labours. Her mother fell a victim to fever on the banks of the Nile a few years back. These ladies will long be held in remembrance by the beautiful work " Planta; Tinneanre," which contains illustrations and descriptions of the plants collected by Madame Tinne and her party. The Hamburgh International Horticultural Exhibition. — This has proved a decided success in a financial point of view, there being no less than 60,000 visitors on the Sunday after its opening. Better specimens of nearly all the plants shown have been exhibited in this country. Nevertheless it was one of the most beautiful and varied exhibitions ever seen. The collections of conifers were good, and added much to the beauty of the show, as also were roses and palms. Messrs. F. and A. Smith, Dulwich ; Messrs. Carter and Co., High Holborn ; and Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing, Forest Hill, sent splendid collections of bronze, silver, and gold zonale pelargoniums. Messrs. Veitch and Son, Chelsea, sent a fine collection of new plants, which were much and justly admired. Messrs. Linden, Verschaffelt, and Laurentius contributed largely. The grand prize of 500 thalers for 50 flowering and foliage plants fell to the lot of M. Kramer, Flotbeck Park, Holstein, who had a splendid Disa grandiflora in the collection. The cup offered by Her Majesty the Queen for grapes fell to that champion of grape-growers, Mr. Meridith, Garston, Liverpool. Mr. Thomson, Dalkeith, also received a gold medal for three superb bunches of grapes. The cup was offered for the three best bunches of grapes, but at the last moment the conditions were altered to the best collection, thus practically putting the English exhibitors out of the field, excepting Mr. Meridith. He fortunately had sufficient fruit with him to enter in several classes, and when the alteration was made known, put the whole in one collection, and thus prevented an inferior German collection, for which it was evidently intended, obtaining it. The last- mentioned collection, however, succeeded in carrying off the Duke of Mecklen- burgh's cup, though obviously inferior to the fruit from Mr. Thomson. Mr. Meridith had three bunches each of Black Hamburgh, Lady Downes, Trentham Black, Muscat Hamburgh, Muscat of Alexandria, and Mrs. Pince's Muscat. The show of mowing machines and other implements was extensive and good ; but here, as in the other department, some of the adjudications of the prizes were far froni satisfactory to the exhibitors or creditable to the jurists. Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society, Sept. 8th and 9th. — The inter- national exhibition of fruit held at Edinburgh far exceeded that of 1865 in every- way, and was one of the most magnificent displays ever held. The quantity of fruit THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 319 staged was simply enormous, especially tbe grapes. Of the high quality of the several contributions there can be little doubt when we say that such growers as Messrs. Meridith and Thomson were beaten. The leading exhibitor in the grape classes was Mr. George Johnstone, gardener to the Earl of Strathallan, Glamis Castle, who took the first prize for the collection, and also in ten other classes, over the heads of the above, and numerous other first-rate growers. The first prize for collections of fruit, 20 sorts, went to Mr. Stevens, Trentham ; and the first prize for 16 sorts, to Mr. Mathieson, Tulliallan. Pine-apples, from Mr. Miles, Wycombe Abbey, Mr. Foulis, Fordel, and Mr. Carmicheal, Sandringlnun, were in superb condition. Death of Mr. James Veitch. — Horticulture has experienced a heavy loss in the death of Mr. James Vtitch, the head of the firm of J. Veitch and Sons, King's Road, Chelsea, which took place suddenly, at an early hour on Friday morning, September 10th. The name of the deceased gentleman will long be held in remem- brance by horticulturists of all grades, associated as it is with so many fine plants with which he has succeeded in enriching our gardens. NEW BOOKS. Choice Stove and Greenhouse Flowering Plants. By B. S. Williams, Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, Upper Holloway. (Published by the Author.) — The want of a good practical book upon the cultivation of stove and greenhouse plants has long been felt by plant-growers of all grades, but more especially by amateurs. The work now before us supplies that want, so far as the flowering pi ants are concerned, and as the preface promises a similar volume upon plants remark- able for their ornamental leafage, that difficulty will soon be remedied. It consists of a handsomely got up 8vo of 329 pages, and is divided into two parts, the first devoted to stove plants, and the second to the inhabitants of the greenhouse. It is conveniently divided into chapters, devoted to sugIi subjects as Structures, Heating, Propagation, Soil, Watering, and contains in addition a descriptive list of all the best species and varieties of stove and greenhouse plants. Mr. Williams is known as the most frank and genial of garden advisers, and this work will not diminish his well-earned reputation, as will be seen by the extract, which we give to show the way the several subjects are handled : — " Potting. — The first things to be considered are the Pots. Of these we need say but a few words, as every one is well acquainted with flower-pots. For specimen stove or greenhouse plants, the best pots are those with a movable bottom, because the plant can be set upon a stand, the pot gently slipped down, and tbe condition of its roots and drainage examined with the greatest ease to the operator, and perfect safety to the specimen. Next comes the drainage, and we say here, once for all, drain well, or success will never be realized. By draining well, we do not mean the throwing of a large quantity of potsherds into the pot in a careless manner, but placing a few pieces carefully — a large piece over the hole, some smaller ones round about and over this, with the hollow side downwards, and finishing off with still smaller ones, or some charcoal, which will be preferable, tbe whole being covered with rough peat fibre, to prevent the soil mixing with it. Some growers begin repotting at a stated time in the spring, and go through their whole collection at one time. This system may be convenient, but is certainly unwise and most unnatural ; indeed, it is impossible to lay down any definite rule, as tome few things must be repotted directly after blooming. Now, as all plants do not start into growth at the same time, though in the same temperature, those which are dormant cannot take up the nourishment from the new soil, which consequently by frequent waterings becomes soddened, and comparatively old before the roots are in a fit state to move into it. It has always appeared to us — and wherever practicable, we have been guided by this in our practice — that the very best time to repot a plant is in spring, just when it begins to push forth new growth, because then the roots and branches are acting in unison, and botli are in a fit state to receive fresh nutriment. " Everything being in perfect readiness — the compost properly mixed, and in a nice half-moist condition, neither wet nor dry, and the pot either new or clean, dry, and properly drained- the plant to be shifted, if a large one, should be stood upon 320 THE ELORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. the stand before-mentioned, the pot slipped down, and the old drainage taken away. The roots, if matted, must be carefully disentangled, as much of the old soil being removed as can be done without injury to them. Then some of the new compost must be put into the fresh pot, just sufficient to bring the surface of the old soil to within about half an inch of the top, and having carefully placed the plant in the middle, and at the proper level, the new soil is to be filled in around it, care being taken to press it down quite firmly. After this operation has been performed, a little higher temperature and extra shade should be given to the plants, to prevent them suffering from the slight check which repotting naturally must give them, and to encourage them to put forth fresh roots more quickly. The only difference in shifting or repotting large and small plants is, that in the case of the latter, the plant can remain in the hand of the operator, and the stand need not be brought into use. Those plants which have strong coarse roots may have a large shift each time, but care must be taken not to overpot those having fine and delicate roots, as it is far better to repot twice, or three times, than to risk the health, if not the life, of a plant by overpotting. " Little more need be said upon this subject, save that the sieve, so necessary to some cultivators, should be utterly discarded, and the soil prepared by being chopped into pieces with a spade ; by the time it is mixed together it becomes sufficiently fine, and needs no sifting. Those plants which bloom better when kept in small pots, and which are not to be shifted, should, at the period when others are repotted, have the surface of the soil in their pots stirred, some of the worn-out material being removed, and replaced with new." Received. — The Gardener's Magazine, The Student, The Treasury of Litera- ture and Ladies' Treasury, Our Own Fireside, The Gospel Magazine, The Botanical Magazine, Yerschaffelt's Illustration Horticole, Old Jonathan, the American Horticulturist, The Gardener's Record. TO CORRESPONDENTS. Standard Rhododendrons. — S. A. — These are generally obtained by grafcing upon tall stems of R. ponticum, which may be easily obtained from seed. Standards of R. ponticum can be obtained by growing them with a single stem until they reach the desired height, when the growing point can be nipped out, and the shoots which break just below allowed to form a head. It requires much skill in com- bination, witli proper conveniences, to be successful in grafting rhododendrons. Name of Plant. — H. C. P., Weymouth — The plant received is Hypericum dubium. You should have sent us a flowering specimen. Abutilon striatum Culture. — C. II. Maclean, Clapham. — This is by no means a difficult subject to handle, as it usually flowers freely enough with ordinary greenhouse treatment. It will also flower freely in the open air. The plants in the subtropical garden at Battersea Park have flowered superbly throughout the summer. Cut the plant back in the winter, and, as soon as it begins to start into growth, take it out of the pot, and, after reducing the ball of soil considerably, but without injuring the roots too much, repot in the same size again. The same pot may be used again, if you give it a thorough washing, and allow time to get partly dry previously. Good turfy loam, with either a small proportion of leaf- mould or rotten manure, and a little sand, will form an excellent compost. Pot firm, and, after the roots get established, water liberally without soddening the soil, and keep the foliage clean. The plants should also be kept near the glass, and receive full exposure to the light and air. By observing these simple rules we have no doubt a larger measure of success will be met with next year. Subscriber, Haverstock Hill. — There are no reasons, except bad management, to prevent the plants flowering freely. Perhaps the young growth is cut back every fortnight or three weeks, with the idea of compelling the plants to bloom, whereas it has an opposite effect, and a lot of useless wood is produced instead. Perhaps you shade too much, for light is an important agent in connection with the produc- tion of flowers. The plants you mention, if the roots are in good trim, will flower, even if they have no attention beyond keeping the foliage clean, and the roots supplied with water. ^ L 0 R A. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. NOVEMBER, 1869. FLOWERING BEGONIAS. ( With figure of Begonia roscpjlora.) BY GEOBGE GORDON. S all begonias produce flowers, it is necessary to say that our object in the present article is to speak of such as are grown for their flowers only. "Flowering Begonias" are valuable, chiefly, because a considerable proportion of them flower during the winter when flowers are scarce. Considered as winter flowers they are doubly valuable, both because of their beauty, and the ease with which they can be grown into good specimens. It is true, that with but two or three exceptions, they must have the warmth of a stove or intermediate house, when making the young growth ; and also when in flower during the winter. Nevertheless, they are not strictly stove-plants, and we need not breathe a stifling atmosphere in order to enjoy them. B. Veitchi, and the beautiful B. rososflora, are stemless, and can be propagated by means of the full-grown leave3, in the same way as the ornamental-leaved varieties are. But all that have a shrubby habit, like B . fuclisioides and B. Ingrami, are readily raised from cuttings of the young wood taken off in the spring. The cuttings should be taken off about a couple of inches in length from the fresh healthy tips of the young shoots, and inserted firmly in sand. It is not necessary to say anything about covering the cuttings with bell-glasses, for there is a propagating pit made up at that time in most gardens which will suit them admirably. It is not advisable to keep cuttings of this class of plants either too close or too moist, for the succulent nature of the wood and leaves gives them a ten- dency to damp off ; but in giving this caution it will be well to observe that, on the other hand, they must not be exposed to very strong light, more especially sunshine, until after they are nicely rooted. TOL. IV. — NO. XT. 21 322 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. As soon as the cuttings are rooted, they should be potted off either singly into 60's, or, if a good specimen is wanted at the earliest possible moment, it is a very good plan to put three plants in a 48 ; and, if convenient, it is a wonderful advantage to them to return the pots to a nice gentle hotbed until the young roots begin to feel the sides of the pots. The plants after this should be kept in a growing temperature moderately charged with humidity, say about 70° or 75°, and partially or wholly shaded from the sun, in proportion to the age of the plants and the clearness of the atmosphere. Specimens two or three years old will stand an amount of sunshine that would totally annihilate young tender plants a few montbs old that have been grown rather quickly. The temperature and atmospheric conditions of an early vinery are as close an approximation to the amount of heat, moisture, and shade experienced by them in their native localities and habitats as we can conveniently secure. They should have every encouragement to grow strong by being potted on as fast as they require it, until they reach 24's or 16's — either is a good size to flower them in, but the last size should not be exceeded ; and they should be managed so that the growth is completed by the end of August, to afford plenty of time to ripen the wood, and induce an abundant formation of flower-buds. This end will be best secured by placing them in a comparatively cool and airy house for a time, and then throughout the whole of the winter and spring months they will flower abundantly in a warm greenhouse. As soon as the flowering season is over of the winter-blooming kinds — say, for sake of clearness, the middle of March — they must be pruned, but not too hard; and when they begin to make new shoots, take them out of the pots, reduce the ball of soil, and repot in the same size pots again. If the pots are then partially plunged in a bottom-heat of about 75° or 80°, the plants will speedily start into growth again. Bottom-heat is not indispensable, and equally as good growth will be made, though not so quickly, if they are placed upon the shelves of the stove or vinery. Keep rather dry at the roots until they begin to take possession of the fresh soil, and syringe overhead once or twice a day. When in full growth water freely, avoiding excess, and once or twice a week after they become pot-bound, give them weak liquid manure. During the winter, water cautiously. The tuberous-rooted species must be dried off, and the pots turned on their sides to prevent the soil getting wet. It is of great importance to pot them in light rich soil, through which the roots can travel freely. A very suitable compost may, however, be formed with good turfy loam and leaf-mould, mixed in the proportion of two parts of the former to one of the latter. The loam must be broken up roughly, and, after adding the leaf-mould, a good sprinkling of small crocks and a liberal proportion of silver sand should be mixed with it, to keep the mass open and porous, this condition being of the utmost importance. The plants should be nicely staked and tied out as the growth progresses, for, besides giving them a much better appearance, and THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 323 showing the flowers off to a greater advantage, it is necessary to prevent their getting broken about, for the wood is so tender and brittle, that the greatest care is necessary in handling them to pre- vent their mutilation. The most desirable kinds for general culture are the following : — B. roscejlora. — This splendid species was discovered by the late Mr. Pearce, in the Andes of Peru, at an elevation of 12.000 feet. It grows and flowers freely in a cool greenhouse, and there is every reason to suppose that it is very nearly, if not quite, hardy. It is dwarf and stemless, with orbicular leaves borne on red stems, and three to five flowered scapes, the stems of which are also red. B. Boliviensis. — A splendid tuberous-rooted species, flowering during the summer. It has a graceful habit of growth, generally attaining a height of two feet. The flowers are bright glossy red, two inches in length, and of a compressed bell-shaped form. This and the preceding species should be repotted in spring, just as they are starting into a fresh growth. B. ClarJcei, syn. Weltoniensis. — A beautiful dwarf-growing species, with rose-pink flowers in the way of B. | arviflora. By striking two or three batches of cuttings, this may be had in flower throughout the whole year. It grows freely in a warm greenhouse. B. Digsicelliana. — A free-blooming dwarf variety, with pinkish- red flowers ; invaluable for winter decoration. B. fucJis bides. — A strong-growing species, with large vermilion flowers ; one of the best for flowering in early spring. B. Ingrcmi. — A moderately strong grower, bearing a profusion of reddish-pink flowers ; one of the best winter-flowering kinds. B. manicrda. — Pink; a free-growing and free-flowering species. B. parviflora. — White ; very dark and bushy in habit, and con- tinues a long time in flower. B. Saandersiana. — A moderately strong grower ; flowers bright red, produced very profusely throughout the winter. One of the best for a warm greenhouse. B. Sedeni. — A fine new species, similar in habit and in the shape of the flowers to B. Boliviensis ; the flowers are deep rosy red, and very showy. B. Veitchi.' — This bears a somewhat close resemblance to B. roscejlora. It has the habit of Saxifraga ciliata, and the flowers, which average two inches in diameter, are of a vivid vermilion cinnabar red. It succeeds admirably in a cold greenhouse, and has been subjected to a temperature of 25° Pahr. in Messrs. Veitch's nursery, without injury. It will probably make a fine border-plant in sheltered situations. Repot in spring. B. dwersifolia. — A nearly hardy Mexican plant of the most splendid character, producing large spikes of flowTers of the richest tint of rosy purple or mauve. 324 SELECT HERBACEOUS PLANTS. NO. II.— HERBACEOUS LOBELIAS. BY GEORGE GRAY, Head Gardener, Norbiton Hall, Kingston-on-Thames. j|HE herbaceous Lobelia is not perhaps so useful for out-door work as the Phlox, but it can justly claim to rank next in importance. It is not necessary to praise it unduly, but there can be no harm in saying that it is one of the most useful plants we have for conservatory decoration. It is doubly valuable to amateurs and others who have little room for wintering plants, because it is nearly hardy, and the stock can be preserved in a cold frame, or plunged in a bed of coal- ashes. The plants that have embellished, during summer, the open borders, can be lifted and placed in a dry corner out of doors, and covered with coal-ashes ; and if protected from heavy rains they will take no harm. Their chief value, however, consists in the ease with which they can be increased and grown into specimens for conservatory decora- tion. The merest tyro need have no fear of failing in getting up a stock, if the few directions accompanying these remarks are strictly followed. In the last week in February, or beginning of March, turn the old plants out of the pots, and divide them carefully, according to the number of plants required ; every shoot will form a plant, but it is not desirable to divide them into such small portions when the plants are required for indoor decoration, as a few good specimens have a much better effect than treble the number of small plants with single spikes. An average of four spikes to each specimen is the most suitable for ordinary purposes. Good fibrous loam, mixed with a liberal proportion of hotbed manure, will form a suitable compost. Use six-inch pots to commence with, and after potting place the stock in a cold frame until the pots are nicely filled with roots. Admit plenty of air to keep the growth short-jointed and hardy ; and towards the end of May, place the plants out of doors in a shady corner, and be careful to stand the pots upon a bed of coal-ashes to keep the worms out. Here they remain until the flowers begin to expand, and the only atten- tion necessary will be to shift into sixteen-inch pots soon after the removal of the stock to the open air, and keep them well-supplied with water. After the beauty of the flowers is past, remove the plants to the open air, and cut away the old flower-stem, and in October return to the cold-frame, or heap a good thickness of coal-ashes over the pots, and lay a few boards on the top to throw the wet off. Where frame-room is abundant, the plants can be potted in the autumn with advantage, because it gives the plants an opportunity THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 325 to get well-established before they start into active growth in the spring. The following is a selection of the best varieties in their several colours : — Cardinalis, Distinction, Excellent, Garland, Glitter, Match- less, Mulberry, Nonsuch, Peach-blossom, Progress, Buby, Theodosia. HOME-GROWN BRIERS EOR BUDDING NEXT SEASON. BY THE EEY. E. POCHIK. Sileby Vicarage, Loughborough. j]OT very long ago some over-cautious person ventured to predict that, such was the growing rage for roses, the country would soon be stripped of briers. The Manetti and other stocks, of course, considerably relieve the demand for briers ; but, without going into the ques- tion of t eir respective merits, the brier is at least necessary for tea-rose budding. And I should be glad to ease the mind of the cautious gentleman alluded to, and also make brier-getting a simple thing to amateurs, and even nurserymen ; for I have found many of the latter who not only were unacquainted with the method I will suggest, but actually would not believe it. Put in the ground as thickly as you can, at this time of the year, cuttings of the ripe wood of the brier ; cut out all the buds that will be covered with the soil, and nest year you will have plenty of dwarf brier stocks fit for budding on. This is no experiment ; I have done it year by year ; and, in proof of what I say, I may add that on brier-cuttings which I put in the ground in the autumn of 18G5, I budded in the summer of 1866, and have shoots of roses on them eight feet high this year, with excellent roses that have bloomed better still. Put in cuttings of robust-growing roses ; you thus have rose-blooms if the budded varieties fail, and need not be afraid of suckers. These make capital dwarf-stocks for pot-roses. I know that this is but a repetition of our Editor's advice about obtaining roses on their own roots, applied to briers, or roses as stocks for other varieties. Indeed, he tells us in his admirable " Rose Book," how he multiplies briers at home for his own uses. Still, as an exhibitor and ardent cultivator of the rose, the foregoing statement of my experience in this practice may be useful, if only as a reminder to rosarians, that now is the season to begin. 326 CONIFEROUS TREES ADAPTED TO ENGLISH GARDENS. IHE collecting and cultivating of choice coniferous trees is as much, a passion with many as the collecting of orchids, or geraniums, or ferns. Such remarks as are now to be offered will he of no use to the possessors of places like Elvaston, or Dropmore, or Bicton ; but they may be of use to the proprietors of smaller places who delight in pines and spruces, but have not space to, allow of their full develop- ment of gigantic growth for which some of the most noble are celebrated. Possibly many who are not to be classed among amateurs with limited purses, might be advised for their good on the subject. We do occasionally see magnificent properties dis- figured by starved firs that have been planted in anticipation of affording notable embellishments, but which, being in a soil ill suited to their nature, dwindle year after year till they become bare poles surmounted with wretched tufts of black or rusty leafage, like gigantic mops that have been used to sweep the tall chimneys cf a factory, and have been stuck in the ground, there to remain till wanted again for the same ignoble purpose. I have seen such lamentable sights many a time, and have been compelled to regret that for lack of a little knowledge and judgment in the first instance, some of the best features of a fine property have been degraded to an arborieultural burlesque. Small gardens are often subject to mistakes of another kind. The trees planted perhaps do well — in one sense too ivell, for they grow out of bounds, and the giants rear their lofty heads, in outrageous disproportion to the things around them, -while they exclude the sunshine with their vast masses of sombre foliage, they kill everything beneath and around them, and spread an air of gloom and an atmosphere almost poisonous in a place which should be light, cheerful, beautiful, and healthy. Let not the love of trees ever lead to the exclusion of the light of heaven, or a stoppage of the flow of the healthy breezes ; when such becomes the case, horticulture, or whatever name the art of so doing things should bear, becomes a curse instead of a blessing ; and to live on a wild heath in the midst of furze and broom would be far preferable to being so buried alive in a miniature black forest. I have never walked a mile in any district occupied with houses of the villa stamp, and especially in old suburban districts, but I have passed houses that are effectually screened from observation, from dust, from fresh air and sunshine, by some overgrown cedar or yew, or other dark sombre tree, originally planted too near the windows, and now occupied solely in making the inmates so wretched that the death it is hastening them to can scarcely have any terrors. Such examples should serve as warnings to those who plant trees. The pretty little cedar looks so nice at some ten or twenty feet from the windows, and for a time it can do no harm. But the day will come when it will brush against the walls, thrust the tips of its long boughs in at the windows, and greedily eat up all the air and light THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 327 that human beings need for health and sustenance. To he sure such trees cau be cut down when they become a nuisance, but too many people lack the courage to lay the axe to the root, and suffer the depression and enfeeblement consequent on the exclusion of light without knowing that the tree is a deadly enemy, Moreover, robust habited coniferous trees are not fit for planting near to dwelling houses. It is impossible to see their beauty when so placed. How different is the aspect of a cedar of Lebanon black as ink, stiff and hard in outline, filling up all the space of a forecourt so that every room on that side of the house is as" dreary as a cell devoted to a criminal, to a similar tree on an open lawn which it sweeps with its far-reaching branches, and which can be seen in all its grand outlines against a relief of green grass one way and of blue sky another ! A place for everything, and everything in its place, is a suitable motto for planters of coniferous trees ; and above all I beg of our readers to plant nothing which shall some day shut out the light from the dwelling, for light is healthy, cheerful, and as needful for our well-being as bread. A considerable proportion of the noblest conifers are not well adapted for gardens, because of their great size when mature, and their comparative plainness of aspect when young. Firs that make fine woods are rather in the way in gardens, though occasionally we see a few spruces and Scotch firs tell with good effect in garden scenery where space is plentiful, and there is need of striking objects in the background. But for lawns and conspicuous positions, and for the centres of beds otherwise occupied with flowers, there are many that are at once exquisitely beautiful in form and colour, and that never attain to any great size, and consequently do not dwarf or shrink by comparison everything around them. As this is the planting season, I will enumerate a few that are eminently adapted for gardens — large and small — and that should be secured first of all in the endeavour to form an interesting collection. As a rule, these trees require a deep nutritious loam, well drained, yet tolerably retentive of moisture. The first effect of a starving position or bad treatment in planting is the decay of the lower branches, and the mixture of much rusty leafage with the growth all over the tree. Every care should be taken to preserve the growth intact to the very base. Let them not suffer by re- maining out of the ground any length of time. Plant them with care, working in dry soil amongst their roots so that no hollows are left, and in planting valuable trees use a mixture of leaf-mould, dry chippy nodules of turf, and good mellow loam, thrusting it in between the larger roots, and carefully spreading out the exterior fibres. When the work is finished and trodden firm, stake the trees in such a way that during gales the stakes will not chafe the bark, for many trees are injured in that way. It has long been my practice in planting choice trees to stake them with three stout stakes of proportionate size, thrust into the ground obliquely at some distance from the tree, and brought together and bound to the stem with a hayband betweeu them and the bark, and there fastened securely. The stem of the tree then stands in the centre of three 328 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. slanting supports that look like the legs of a theodolite or outdoor telescope ; it is immovable during the wildest storm, and not a root is wounded by the thrusting of the stakes into the ground, which must be the case when a stake is thrust down close beside the stem — to say nothing of the incapacity of a close upright stake to hold a tree with any amount of head during a strong gale. Trees so staked should so remain all winter, and generally speaking the supports may be all taken away in the following April, though in some windy places, a strong wire stay should be supplied on the side most needed to hold the tree perpendicular when the wind rages from the cus- tomary quarter. Some of our best garden conifers are not at all particular about soil, as will be observed in the remarks upon the several genera ; and some, again, never do so well as when planted among rocks, or low down with their feet in damp or marshy ground. Spruce Firs. — The Spruce Firs are handsome trees, but the more robust kinds must have plenty of room, and hence are not pre- eminently garden trees. As to their characters, we are all familiar with the fine outlines of A. canadensis, the Hemlock spruce, the tree referred to by Longfellow in the line "the murmuring pines and the hemlocks." Their free growth is a great recommendation where they are required for shelter, and for the skirts of plantations, and for that sort of planting which is strictly regulated by price, for they are cheap. Those who want half a dozen of the finest large- growing kinds for a pinetum should take the following : — A. cana- densis, the Hemlock spruce, a common but handsome bushy-headed tree which does best in a moist retentive soil. A. Douglassi, a splendid conical tree, very handsome in a small state when growing well, and quite suitable for pot culture. A. excelsa Finechnensis, the Finedon Hall spruce, a variety of the common Norway spruce, which Messrs. Paul and Son, of Cheshunt, have propagated exten- sively on account of its peculiar beauty. The younger leaves of the upper sides of the shoots are at first a pale yellow colour, but after- wards change to a bronze brown, and when fully matured become light green. It originated amongst a batch of seedlings. A. Menziesii, a very fir-like spruce, which makes a fine tree in a large place, but is unfit in any of its stages of growth for small gardens. It may be known from several species that are like it by the silvery hue of the under sides of the leaves. In anything like a collection it is indispensable. A. rubra, the red spruce ; this is grown exten- sively for the markets to be sold for " Christmas trees." It has no peculiar beauties, but is nevertheless handsome, and grows freely on a damp retentive soil. Now let us pick out another and a choicer half-dozen. First of all I place A. Morinda (syn. A. Khutrow, A. Smithiana, etc., etc.) The character of this tree is most elegant, the branches being well clothed with long leaves of a rather light green colour, finely shaded by the darker colour of the old leaves, which remain several years. All the branches and side-shoots droop in a most graceful manner,, so that a good specimen may be likened to a mass of green ostrich plumes. The wide stretch of the lower branches renders it unfit for pots, or for any position where it cannot sweep freely. If planted THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 329 in a mass of rich deep loam slightly elevated above the general level, this is one of the most elegant embellishments a small garden can have. There are several pigmy varieties of A. excelsa that are worth the attention of lovers of conifers. The following are perhaps the best : A. e. Clanbrasiliana, A. e. elegans, A. e. Gregoryana, A. e. stricta. For a medium-sized tree of rare beauty, take Abies alba rjlauca, which has silvery leaves, and forms a regular pyramid ; and A. orientalis, which is of very dense growth, conical shaped, and very distinct and handsome. If any more are wanted, add A taxifolia and A. SooJceriana. The Chili Pine. — The most distinct of all known coniferous trees is Araucaria imbricata. To grow this splendid subject well requires a deep rich moist loam. No one has ever seen fine speci- mens on any starving or hot soil. ' Town smoke and poverty of roots cause the lower growths to become brown, and ultimately to perish, so that in a few years, if a tree does not thrive, it becomes a most unsightly and obnoxious object. As large specimens are frequently purchased, I will say a few words on planting them. The nurseryman may send it with a good ball of roots if he likes and if he can. But he must send it with the branches carefully tied in as close as possible to the stem, and the stem matted or otherwise protected at the collar, for it is there, in process of transport, it is most likely to be bruised. Make ready for it a large space of deeply dug and well broken soil, not quite deep enough to plant the tree on the level. Strew over the bottom of the hole a barrowful of old dry turf chopped to the size of brickbats, and with all the small stuff belonging to it. Remove the matting, but do not untie the tree. Shake as much as possible of the soil from the ball, so as to make the roots bare, but do not carry this out in any extreme manner. Carefully cut away with a sharp knife any jagged ends of roots that would become mildewed after planting, in order to pro- mote a quick healing of the wounds and the formation of new fibres. Ctet the tree into its place, and mark how high the collar will be when the planting is finished. Make that right first, by putting more turf into the hole, or by taking some out. Then while one or two, as may be required, keep the tree upright, let the hole be filled in with a mixture of the best hazelly loam that can be had, and old dry turf chopped to the size of one's fist. Do not allow the hole to be filled as gravediggers fill a grave, by mere shovelling, but a little at a time, so that the stuff can be worked in amongst the roots, and not a gap or hollow left anywhere. Before finishing, pour several pails of water into the hole, and let the affair remain a day or two. When finished, the tree will stand on a gentle mound. It may not require staking, still it will be safest to provide for it in case of high winds before it makes new roots. Cedabs. — The gigantic and solemn Cedrus Libani and C. At- lantica are fit only for parks, cemeteries, and arboretums. But C. deodara is invaluable for garden use, and one of the very best trees that can be put in a pot for winter decorating. It will grow in almost any soil and situation. London smoke is not good for it, 330 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. but it will thrive in many districts near London, where no other coniferous tree except a Juniper can live. Its beauty is inde- scribable, but fortunately the tree is too well known to need describing. Once more I will beg all readers of this work who have deodaras in their gardens, to abstain from tying the leading shoot to a stake. It is an absurd practice — first, because nature makes the leader droop, and knows best about it ; and secondly, because the natural arching over of the leader is one of the most beautiful characteristics of the tree. This silly process of tying up the leader, examples of which abound all over the land, is akin to the process by which our ancestors made cripples of their children by swathing their bodies in cloths, and turned every garden into a candlestick and extinguisher market by clipping box and yew trees into hideous shapes. Sii/veb, Ties. — The grandest of the coniferous trees are found in the genus Picea. They require room and favourable conditions ; it is in rich, deep moist loam — in "timber land" indeed — that they alone attain to perfection. Perhaps the most useful among them for garden purposes is P. jpinsapo, a most distinct and noble tree, of a fine rich dark green hue and cylindrical shape, a fine specimen being nearly the same width from head to foot. P. amabilis, P. nobilis, and P. Nordmanniana have certain points of resemblance, but yet are distinct. They all spread horizontally, and have stiff upright leaders, very formal in character, and very grand. P. amabilis is distinguished by its brilliant glaucous hue and less rigid habit. All three are required in even the smallest collection of coniferous trees, but if one only is required for a special position, let it be P. nobilis. P. Fraseri is a pretty small tree. P. grandis, P. pectinata, and P. jpindro (the last growing like a Lombardy poplar) are fine species for the collector. P. cephalonica and P. Wehhiana are splendid trees for the west of England, and for places well sheltered on deep loamy well-drained soils. In bleak and poor places, it will be certain loss to plant them. Pines. — The true pinuses will pick up a living where many other coniferous trees would be sure to perish. They attain to vast dimensions on barren rocks, and on sandy and stony soils usually do better than on moist loam or clay. Here, then, is a section adapted for the possessors of starving soils ; and one of the best they can select is P. excelsa, which has a rich and beautiful appear- ance, and is a pattern of symmetry. Next P. cemhra, making long tufted needle-like leaves of a very cheerful tint of green. It grows very slowly, and there is a variety of it called Pyginea which may be said not to grow at all, for it will not attain more than three or four feet in the course of a lifetime, though it spreads laterally and makes a pretty bush. The following are excellent for gardens near towns, and of course suitable also for country gardens : P. Bentlia- miana, with very long leaves ; one of the noblest of the family. P. excelsa, with fine bluish-green leaves of great length and droop- ing ; a magnificent tree, remarkable alike for its dignity and sym- metry. P. insignis, the leaves deep grass-green, in dense bush-like tufts the growth upright and columnar. It is described in the THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 331 books as "quite hardy," but in the winter of 18G0-61 very many were killed in all parts of the country. There are, however, plenty to be found in the nurseries. P. macrocarpa, a fine spreading tree with very long greyish leaves, growing freely, and attaining ulti- mately a great size. P. Pyreniaca, with bright green leaves and bright orange coloured branches ; very symmetrical in growth and majestic in appearance. In cases where a greater variety is needed, the following deserve first attention on ac.count of their beauty and hardiness : P. Austriaca, P. Beardsleyii, P. Don Peclri, P. Hartwegi, P. Lambertiana, P. Monticola, like the Weymouth pine, but more dense in growth, very suitable for pot culture ; P. muricata, P. pinaster, P. ponderosa, P. sabiniana. The amateur who wishes to indulge largely in conifers may very safely plant all the Pinuses he can procure, as but few of them are tender in constitution, and they make a grand sky line when mixed in the boundary of a property. Many a bleak sandy hill-side at present clothed only with heath, and wauting trees to give it warmth, might with advantage be planted with a selection from this genus. Wellingtonia. — Like the famous Deodar, this glorious pine is well known and admired. As a lawn tree it cannot be surpassed for the grandeur of its appearance and its natural tendency, if doing well, to keep itself clothed to the ground. It will thrive in almost any soil, but a substantial loam suits it best. In planting fine specimens it is advisable to take the same care as advised for Arau- carias, and unquestionably the lest time in the whole year^ for the process is the month of October. But, from much experience in planting specimens of some size, I would not hesitate to say that it may be planted at any time from the 1st of September to the first week of May ; many that I have moved in May have thriven so satisfactorily, that they have not lost a leaf, and in the worst cases, a little browning of the lower shoots was all that occurred, and this was soon remedied by a free bottom growth. The advantage of planting in October is that the tree is then perfectly at rest, and has before it a period of six months of cool moist weather, and can make plenty of new roots before there is any serious demands upon the resources of the tree by evaporation. The variations of growth are very slight among trees of this species, a point in which it differs much from some other conifers. We never see, for example, so much variety in a nursery quarter as we see in a quarter of Araucarias ; here there is less necessity for careful selection of plants, though the purchaser should always secure, if possible, trees with straight and well-defined leaders, and with plenty of furniture at the bottom, for this tree should sweep the ground ; and the base of the stem, indeed the stem anywhere, should be hidden by a dense and regular growth. Aeboe Vit.es. — In this section I include Biotas, Thuias, and Liboccdrus. A most noble and most useful tree is Biota Japonica, otherwise B. orientalis, the Japanese or oriental arbor-vitse. ^ It grows naturally in a pyramidal form, the colour a rich deep blackish- green. The golden-leaved variety of it, known in the trade as aurea, is a lovely garden tree, invaluable for the front of a choice 332 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. border, or for growing in pots for winter furnishing. It never attains a greater height than three or four feet, and forms a com- pact, dense, round bush of a bright golden-green. The variety called glauca, raised by Messrs. Pince, of Exeter, has a silvery appearance, and needs a purer air than aurea, the latter being a good plant for suburban gardens. B. compacta is a bold, dense, round- headed, bright grass- green busb, well adapted for pot culture, and superb for borders. B. pen&ula has a straight stem, and very long drooping branches. It varies much in appearance in different soils and situations, but is always beautiful. The finest of the true Thuias is undoubtedly T. gigcmtea, which grows very upright, and naturally assumes a pyramidal form. It has broad leaves of a fine dark green, the bark of the young shoots being purplish. It is a superb lawn tree. B. Lobbiana and B. occidentalis are both largely used in planting, but the last-named is only good enough for the rear of a mixed shrubbery ; it has no beauty for a specimen, or a conspicuous position in a foreground. All the Thuias are readily adaptable to any kind of soil, and especially occidentalis. Libncedrus chiliensis is a lovely tree with silvery leafage ; rather tender in places exposed to wind, but for the west of England invaluable. In the winter of 1860-61 it suffered severely, and in many places was killed outright. Cypbesses. — Generally speaking, the species of Cupressus require a dry soil, but in any well-drained loam they thrive, and the hardy kinds are admirable for garden decoration. The most useful of all, and one that has acquired immense popularity, is the charming C. Laivsoniana, which is one of the hardiest trees in the country. The beautiful fan-like disposition of its well-defined masses of dark green leafage, and the slightly drooping attitude of the leader, give it a character which admirably adapts it for a con- spicuous position where it can have the treatment and the im- portance of a specimen. C. macrocarpa is a fine garden tree, almost columnar in outline, the leafage a peculiar and very cheerful tone of yellowish-green ; a noble subject for a promenade garden. It is very hardy. G. attenuata is a small, slender, graceful bush. G. Benthamiana forms a dense head, the older leaves are dark green, the young leaves slightly glaucous. It is scarcely hardy enough for general use. C. excelsa, C. funebris, and C. Ltmtanica are graceful trees, but scarcely hardy, thriving only in a few favoured localities. C. Ooveniana is a first-class garden tree, very dense in growth, rather pendulous, and attaining from seven to twelve feet in height. It is thoroughly hardy. Cbyptomeeia.. — The renowned Cryptomeria Japonica has oc- casioned much trouble to cultivators, for in but few places does it really thrive. Its too frequent behaviour is to turn brown the first season after planting, and in subsequent years to make less and less growth, till it becomes so unsightly that it is gladly got rid of. I advise the lover of trees to give it a trial, no matter what sort of soil he has to deal with, but to avoid extensive planting of it, and the purchase of fine specimens, until convinced by observation that the place is adapted for it. A matter of some importance towards the THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 33B well-doing of this tree is to plant it early in autumn ; if deferred till near the opening of the spring, it has a very poor chance indeed. Junipers. — These trees thrive in almost any soil ; they are cheap, they never attain to a great size, they are hardy, handsome, and may be used extensively in planting, and afford great variety to scenery. Some of them may well take the place of the tenderer kinds of Cupressus. Any of them may be grown in pots until they become too large for decorative purposes, and if they meet with a little occasional neglect suffer less than most other conifers. One of the neatest of columnar trees is Juniperus Chinensis mas, a nice neat-growing kind of a fine green colour. A good selection of upright-growing kinds for the garden are the following : J. communis, J. Hibemica, J. frag fans, J. Phoenicia, a beautiful branch- ing kind, the colour peculiar and striking ; J. Virginiana, J. thurifera. For rockwork, the following are admirable : J". ecliinoformis, J. prostrate, J. Sahina, J. Sabina fol. var., J. sabinoides, and J. Virginiana humilis. One of the most likely to thrive in a dry barren sand is J. occidentalis, which has an umbrella- shaped top and silvery foliage. In this section we may without impropriety include a very pretty garden tree, Cliamcecyparis sphoeroidea, of which there are several beautiful varieties. J.excelsa striata is a lovely glaucous tree, which naturally forms a perfect pyramid. Deciduous Cypress. — This is deservedly a favourite, and is one of the best trees to plant in a swampy place, as by the margin of a lake ; in fact, it needs plenty of moisture to do well. The growth is severely symmetrical, an old and healthy specimen forming a perfect cone of light fresh grass-green. Before it casts its leaves in autumn, it acquires a rich orange colour, the intensity of which varies with the season. Fortune's Tew. — This, which is known botanically as Ceplialotaxus Fortuni, has not yet been fairly appreciated ; at all events we meet with but few examples in nurseries, and the general remark respecting it is that it does not sell. Yet how very distinct and graceful it is, its long glossy leaves and elegantly-arched branches giving it somewhat the appearance of a green ostrich plume. It is reputed hardy, but in some districts was much injured by the severe winter of 1860-61. C. pedunculate, and C. umbraculifera are both peculiar and striking, and will please amateurs who have any fancy for collecting. The Umbrella Pine, Sciadopytis verticillata, belongs to the section in which the junipers and yews are placed. It is a remark- able tree, but has not been in this country long enough to be known well in the specimen form. The long linear leaves appear in tufts of thirty or forty, in a sort of whorl like a parasol, and the branches are alternate in whorls ; the prevailing hue is a deep rich green. It appears to be quite hardy, and its spreading habit of growth will render it a distinct and striking object where it is well placed. Tews. — The common yew, Taxus baccate, is certainly not a first- class garden tree, except under peculiar circumstances. In old neglected places the yews are frequently very picturesque and 334 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. solemn, but in trim gardens they want grace, and, like Perilla nan- kinensis in the parterre, have a funereal air. But the yew makes a first-rate dividing fence, and serves admirably for shelter. It may be cut back quite to the stem, even when very aged, and if at ail right at the root will break again freely, and soon clothe itself with a stubby growth. But many of the varieties of the yew are superb garden trees ; the common Irish, T. b.fastigiata, for example, adds much to the finish and sharp precision of a formal flower garden, and is a good accompaniment to terrace walks. Another variety well adapted for the same purpose is that called nigra, which is almost black, and if kept to a close distaff or spindle shape has a very peculiar and formal appearance, T. b. elegantissima is so richly variegated with gold-yellow that throughout the summer it shines in the shrubbery almost as brightly as the double furze, and is invaluable for pot culture for winter furnishing, though as the winter advances the shoots of the preceding season gradually acquire a green hue, and by the time the new growth commences there is scarcely a trace of variegation to be seen. It is, however, soon renewed, and is equal in effectiveness to the variegation of any tree in our gardens. There is also a silvery-hued variety, and another gold variety of the fastigiate form. T. b. Dovastoni " Dovaston's yew," is exceedingly graceful, the principal branches being hori- zontal, and the branchlets quite drooping. The collector will find plenty more for his amusement, but those named are the most distinct and generally useful. There are two more yews deserving of a word of praise here. T. canadensis is of a lighter green than the common yew, and altogether more slender, and rather pendant in habit. It is a pretty tree, and has the excellent quality of thriving in the deepest shade under the drip of large trees. It has been well proved in this respect at Stoke JNewington, where it has grown finely under the wide-spreading branches of horse-chesnuts, deprived of rain and light all the summer long. But a still more remarkable tree in this respect is T. adpressa, which forms a low-spreading table-shaped head, the leafage a beautiful bluish-black green, very glossy and elegant. No amount of shade appears to injure this ; indeed, we have one tree which has been overgrown and overspread by a vigorous deodar, the heavy branches of which literally lay upon it and bury it in darkness. Yet when the branches of the deodar are lifted, the beautiful growth of T. adpressa is seen to be as perfect as that of other specimens close by which are fully exposed to daylight. The savin juniper has the same property. Such trees probably would thrive in railway tunnels. S. H. 335 THE LADIES' GARDEN.— No. X. BY J. C CLARKE. Head Gardener at Cothelston House, Taunton. BULBS EOE THE DECORATION OE THE ELOWER GARDEN IN" THE SPRING. A.BDY flowering Bulbs for the decoration of the Ladies' Garden in spring ought to constitute an important feature, for without them no garden can be complete if the owner aims at anything like a succession of flowers throughout the year. I have before briefly referred to their use for that purpose, but I am quite sure neither my time nor the space this article will occupy will be unprofitably bestowed if I detail a proper system for the use of bulbs in the beds and borders. In the first place, they are not expensive subjects to buy ; and in the second they are, of all the hardy subjects we use, the most easy to manage. I will deal with the Hyacinths first, and tell my readers how I manage to get good flowering bulbs of my own growth after one season's rest. This is accomplished by removing them from where they have flowered to make room for the bedding plants at the right season. My original stock for spring bedding cost four shillings per dozen (the colours of those at a cheaper rate I found so indistinct that I would not give them room). They were planted in November and removed again in the middle of the following May. It is necessary to remove them with as many roots as possible. This is how I proceed. I secure a piece of green fresh-cut turf; this I cut up into pieces two inches square and as much in thickness. This piece of turf I place, grass side downwards, six inches under the soil ; in fact, just under the base of the bulb. The bulbs are always planted four inches deep, so that directly they make roots they penetrate the turf beneath. When the bulb is taken up again, after flowering, a great portion of the roots are prisoners intact, because the pieces of turf are carefully taken up with them, and planted again in a shady border. Bulbs of hyacinths so treated will even flower respectably the ensuing season, but by cutting away the flower-spike as soon as it is large enough to get hold of, and allow- ing the bulbs to have another year's growth in rich soil, they come out in a fine healthy condition for flowering the next year. All that our readers have to do is to secure a second stock and treat them as I have just advised, and when any sound offsets appear, take them off and plant in any good soil in the garden, and they will not only keep up the stock, but in a couple of years from the time of planting make good flowering roots. I take all my stock out of the ground early in July, and lay them aside in a dry airy loft until the follow- ing November, which is early enough for planting unless a very early bloom is required. 336 THE FLORAL "WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. It will be seen that by purchasing a second lot of bulbs we are enabled to give one lot a whole year's rest to recruit their strength, and then all that has to be done is to treat the resting bulbs liberally by planting them in good soil in the full sun, and not allow them to flower while in the reserve ground, as it tends to weaken them. Then treat the second lot in the same manner, and so let them take it in turns to flower, and you need never purchase any more. Named kinds for bedding purposes are not necessary, as we only require distinct colours, and by keeping the colours separate, which is very easy to do, a charming display may be reckoned upon under the system I have here detailed. 1 practise the system I recommend, and will prove its soundness to any who like to come and see my hyacinths at the proper season. As to the arrangement of the colours and sorts in the beds and borders, all that I can afford room to say is that hyacinths alone make a beautiful small bed ; but where it is desirable to make a single bed retain its beauty a long while, it is desirable to have a centre of early-flowering single tulips (excluding the Van Thol) ; next, two or three rows of hyacinths ; then a mixture of the best crocuses, with a wide ring or edging of snowdrops, and the pretty little winter aconite. A good many of the early-flowering Single Tulips, if treated as I have advised for hyacinths, will flower for two or three years in succession, if treated with the care they deserve in removing them ; but you must not attempt to deal with them roughly, if they are expected to flower the next year. Immediately they are lifted from the spot where they flowered, they must be planted in a shady place, or the leaves will wither, and the root arrive at an imperfect state of maturity, which will prevent their flowering properly the next year. If the leaves are not injured, and a nice moist soil is chosen for them, they rarely suffer by removal, though a few choice yellow and white flowers I have found rather more delicate. As to their use, they are beautiful subjects anywhere, but never more beautiful than when mingled with such subjects as the Forget-me-not, and other surfacing plants. It is many years since I saw the Ceocuses put to their proper use, for there is no mistake that in a favourable season and the colours nicely balanced they make the most charming lines for a ribbon border which it is possible to conceive. All that is wanted is a sufficiency of roots and the colours well arranged to create an effect in a narrow border than cannot easily be forgotten. In con- nection with their use for such a purpose, I may here remark that where the common yellow variety is used it should be borne in mind that it is always the earliest to flower. To make it flower at the same time as the others, when planted in separate lines, and to correspond with the others, it should either be planted two inches deeper than the other colours or three weeks later. As to their use in the beds or borders, they are admissible anywhere about them, but it is best if they can be allowed to complete their growth where they have flowered, for I have never, after many trials, been able to do anything with them if I removed them before the bulbs were THE FLOKAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 337 matured. This, however, is not of much consequence, as they are always to be bought at a reasonable price. The Narcissus is another subject which will not bear removal with impunity. They ought therefore to be planted where they are to flower, and then they will stand for years, and each season gladden us with their fragrant flowers. Their proper place is the mixed border. Amongst the varieties, Narcissus bulbocodkim, or ': Hoop Petticoat," is one of the best, and a lovely subject for the mixed border. If it is desirable to increase the stock of bulbs for the mixed borders, there are double and single Anemones and Ranunculuses, the Fritillarias, Dog's-tooth Violets, the beautiful sweet- scented Jonquils, the lovely Scilla Siberica, with other Squills, and the noble Crown Imperials, with their various shades of colour. In fact, there is scarcely an end to the list of spring-flowering bulbs. "We must not quite forget the Double Tulips, and the Single Late Flowering Tulips, which carry their display on far into May. These answer well for beds intended for sub-tropical plants, as these last are planted in June, by which time the late Tulips may be lifted ; in fact, there is no scarcity of flowers from the time the little winter Aconites and Snowdrops make their first appearance until it is time to plant out the summer bedders. CURIOUS EXPERIENCES IN TOWN ROSE-GROWING. BY W. D. PRIOR, ESQ. gVERY season has its special lesson for us horticulturists, if we seek it in a patient and thoughtful spirit. Now it is the vegetables which exhibit abnormal proceedings ; now the fruit trees perform unexpected vagaries ; now the rosery behaves in an altogether uncommon manner, — 'all equally setting at defiance received opinions and rules. It is, however, with respect to the roses that we have to do on the pre- sent occasion. Whatever may have been the state of things else- where, the case with the writer's roses may be summed up in two propositions: — 1. Never have they been so fine, so plentiful, and so continuous. 2. Never have they been so utterly without cultural attention. Since last autumn, they have neither been watered, weeded, nor manured. It would have been truly distressing for that vener- able divine, and eminent poet, Dr. Watts, to have cast even a glance over my little garden, any time since the period mentioned, lest he should have shuddered at beholding a realization of that typical garden so severely animadverted upon in "Divine Songs," denouncing the unchecked luxuriance of the wild brier, the thorn, and the thistle — inferentially accompanied, no doubt, with a liberal crop of weeds, upon a certain person's premises. Literally weeds and groundsel, save for a short interval, when the ground was dug over, have been ankle deep, and have once more reached a similar VOL. iv. — NO. xi. 22 338 THE ELORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. style of development. But for one's own credit sake it is necessary to explain the reason for these far from creditable circumstances. Possibility of a change of domicile at Christmas, or Lady-day, led to this neglect. I must confess that the propriety of investing in loam or manure, for the benefit of a landlord or successor, by no means commended itself to my mind in these hard times, and so the period of lifting, root-pruning, ground-dressing, etc., was allowed to pass, till the advent of March, without the operation of "flitting" having been accomplished, rendered it too late to deal with the plants secundum artem, and it only remained to make the best of the actual state of things. At this time, moreover, an accident which prevented me from getting about for some weeks, added to the difficulties of the situation. The end of April arrived. Young shoots in full growth ; no- pruning done : indeed, " to prune, or not to prune, that was the question." It is a serious matter to apply the knife in spring to branches with young wood a foot or so in length, already, too, surmounted with buds. To cut these back would have been to sacrifice half the summer bloom ; perhaps to have inflicted a prejudicial check, giving rise to a raging crop of suckers, especially in the manettis. It was, therefore, resolved to leave the piincipal strong shoots with only a little shortening, but to cut out entirely the heart of all the plants, and to extirpate, without re- morse, weak and unhealthy wood. How far this plan has succeeded may be judged from the statement that since June there has been a constant supply of really fine blooms, with the promise of holding out till demolished by the evil genius, Frost. "Friends, ladies, and countrymen," — and countrywomen, too, for that matter — have admired, believed, and participated. A large bunch of roses was brought up from a rose district as a present, evidently not without a secret idea of astonishing our weak nerves ; but it was withdrawn in confusion, and bestowed elsewhere ; a few buds being begged instead. Still it might be urged, Why those weeds ? surely they could have been removed ! But, alas ! I could not stoojy, and had no one to stoop for me ; and so they remained, multiplying ex- ceedingly. Once I had them dug in, but they speedily reappeared. Once I gave a general watering with liquid guano — an ounce to the gallon — and these two operations constitute the whole attention the plants have received since the last summer ; indeed, they have had no manure but liquid manure for three years. Another abnormal feature among the roses here has been the total absence of aphides since a very early date. The general invasion of ladybirds might account for this, had they been present in unusual numbers, which has not been the case. Also, there have been no caterpillars, save, in his season, the villanous black grub, which there appears no effectual method of annihilating ; no "cuckoo spit," no red spider; neither has leperous mildew yet don much damage. Bear in mind, in connection with these facts, there has been neither watering nor syringing. In the particulars recounted we have evidently conditions totally opposed to the usually recognized axioms for rose-growing, and which ought, therefore, to set us examining what really are the THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 339 essential elements towards success. In my humble opinion the secret may be summed up in growth ! growth ! ! growth ! ! ! Keep the plants vigorously growing, and plenty of flowers, absence of insect life, and other agrements which delight the heart of rosarians, will follow as matters of course. The guano I obtained was manifestly good, and administered at the right time — for the future such a watering will form part of the regular treatment of my roses in spring. I am, moreover, by no means disposed to regard the weeds as altogether prejudicial, any more so than any other light surface plants, not impervious to rain, would be. There is no doubt such prevent evaporation and keep the soil moist ; and when dug in, return as much to the soil as they have previously taken away. There is another point the experience of the present season has impressed me with more strongly than ever — the primary importance of sorts. At present I would not recommend more than the follow- ing twenty, unless to adepts, and to them a wide range lies open for experimental trials ; the first dozen for choice pretty much in the order named : — Souvenir de la Malmaison (the most manageable rose also in a pot for conservatory, greenhouse, or parlour window), Gloire de Dijon, Madame de Cambaceres and La Duchesse de Moray (a pair of the finest growers and freest bloomers known), General Jacqueminot (in all qualities but doubleness far before any of its seedlings), Madame Charles Wood, Jules Margottin, Victor Verdier, John Hopper, Charles Lefebvre, Vicomte Vigier, Rev. H. Dombrain, Baronne Prevost, Madame Domage, Pavilion de Pregny, Mrs. Bosanquet (also a window pot rose), Emotion, Le Rhone, Anna Alexieff, Colonel Cambriels. A dozen more might be added, but at the cultivator's risk. But I must not expatiate upon the respective peculiarities of these (and they have peculiar qualities for the purpose mentioned) ; they have often been treated of before, and the space of this pub- lication is too valuable to be occupied in reiteration. .ETHIONEMA CORIFOLIA. BY THOMAS WILLIAMS, Bath Ledge, Ormskirk. HAVE often wondered whether the very beautiful little plant with the above name is generally known or not, and if known as it deserves to be, why on earth it has never been lifted from the obscurity in which it has ever been shrouded. I have often thought that enthusiasm may sometimes lead one to form a false estimate of the merits of these objects of our admiration, but I was relieved from this apprehension by meeting the other day with a very fine plant of Symphiandria penchda in full beauty. On mentioning to the owner of it that I had written in praise of the plant in the Floral "World, a few months back, he replied, " If you had written for a month about it it could not be overpraised." The little plant at present 340 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. under notice is one of the loveliest little gems of this earth — a perennial miniature shrub, belonging to the natural order Gruciferce, growing a few inches high. It is a little spreading evergreen, or I should say everblue shrub, for it has foliage so decidedly glaucous as to appear of a metallic blue, like no other plant I can call to mind. This glaucous leafage clothes densely every part of the plant, so as to render it extremely beautiful at all seasons. Early in spring every branch of this tiny shrub is terminated by small corymbs of lively pink or rose-coloured flowers, not unlike those of a Pimelia. The dense foliage, peculiar colour, and very compact habit of this beautiful plant, will, I am sure, render it very useful as a massing or edging plant for tracery, or where extreme delicacy is required. Another use of this little low-spreading plant is its adaptability for shallow small vases, on terrace walls, in very windy places, where nothing else would grow, as every portion of it is as tough as brass wire ; indeed, weather has no effect on it. I need scarcely add, as a pot plant or a rockery plant, it has scarce a rival, and those who may possess it now or hereafter, will find the above notice of it rather meagre than otherwise, for it merits more than I have said in its praise. MOTES ON THREE SCARCE SHRUBS. BY THOMAS WILLIAMS, Bath Lodge, Ormskirk. INDIGOFEEA DOSUA. THIS is a very beautiful, half-hardy shrub, rarely met with. Generally where known it is treated as a conservatory plant, but is hardy, even in North Lancashire on a wall, which, perhaps, is the best place for it in all cases. As will be seen by its name, it is a leguminous plant, of a graceful, slender, mimosa-like habit, with finely-divided pinnate foliage, of a silvery-grey colour, very free of growth, pro- ducing a multitude of long, slender, drooping branches throughout the summer. It is beautiful even in this state, but as it flowers on the young wood of the current season, and every twig bears in succession small, laburnum-like bunches of rosy-red flowers, it is more beautiful still. All the Indigoferas are interesting. "What an exquisite, refined, dandy-like plant is I. decora, and a wall covered with the plant under notice is a fine sight. It will grow on any aspect. My plant is on an east aspect, and I have no doubt it would thrive on a north one. "Whoever may wish to give this fine plant a trial should train the young plant to the wall as we would a peach, laying in the long flexible shoots at full length. Cover with a mat for a season or two, till the old wood becomes fairly hardened. In spring it will be TIIE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 341 found the young wood will have died back a portion ; prune it to where you perceive it making new growth ; nail in the wood as it grows, and proceed thus till the space is filled that you mean to allow it. The only after-treatment required will be, when th.3 danger of frost is over, to spur in the whole of last year's wood as we do a full-grown currant tree. This will cause the plant to throw out a vast quantity of young wood, which should grow at will all the summer. The shrub will grow twelve feet high. LONICEEA BEACTEATA. Some years ago I found in a small garden a deliciously-scented, very early-flowered honeysuckle, flowering at least six weeks' earlier than any other honeysuckle I know of, blooming sometimes in the end of April. This I have lately found to be L. bracteata. It has something of the habit of L. caprifolium, but neater. The flowers are pale yellow, produced in terminal whorls, with a perfoliate leaf or bract between every whorl. These green bracts intervening between the whorls of flowers, show the latter off to much advantage. It is a most abundant bloomer, and will flower when only a foot high. This habit renders it a fine thing for pot culture for indoor decoration, as it is the most highly-perfumed of all the honeysuckles. SALIX BOSHAEINIFOLIA. A very neat and little-known willow, growing from four to five feet high, with reddish-coloured twigs, of a compact shrubby habit. It is, perhaps, the handsomest osier known. The leaves are of a very deep green, long and linear, reticulated ; and as like a rose- mary leaf as possible, but much longer. I met with this as a discarded, valueless plant, in a small nursery, the owner of which knew nothing nor cared anything about it. I have often wondered why it has never been brought into notice. It has that beauty and distinctness about it that at once render it conspicuous among the most select collection of willows. ELOWERS FOR THE NEW TEAE. BY WILLIAM COLE, Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex. |T is not my intention to weary the readers of the Eloeal "World with a long dissertation upon forcing flowers, although the subject is by no means threadbare, and if we take into consideration the way flowering plants are forced in many gardens, it will not be difficult to admit that there is plenty of room for improvement. A few practical suggestions for forcing hardy and half hardy plants and shrubs may, however, be useful, and it will be well to omit mention of 342 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. spring-flowering bulbs, as sufficient has already been said about them. Many people fail in forcing a few flowers, simply because they employ too high a temperature, frequently ten or fifteen degrees higher than the temperature which prevails out of doors when the plants bloom naturally. The result of this treatment is weakly growth, and flowers so delicate as to be unable to withstand the atmosphere of an ordinary conservatory. If the several subjects named herein are well established in pots, so much the better, but the larger proportion of them may be lifted at once and potted. This operation should be done soon, to give the plants time to make a few roots before beiDg placed in heat. It will not be prudent to commence forcing too early unless there is a good range of forcing pits to back up the cultivator's efforts. After the plants are potted, it is a good plan to plunge the pots in a bed of coal-ashes, or decayed leaves made up out of doors. Placing them in a pit is, however, to be preferred, because the plants can then be protected from incle- ment weather. If kept out of doors, they ought to have a month's probation either in a cold pit or orchard-house, before they are brought into the forcing-pit. The best results are obtained by partly plunging the pots in a mild bottom-heat of about 60' for three or four weeks previous to the exposure of the plants to top-heat. This can easily be done if the pit or house is heated by hot water, because a bed of leaves or tan will supply the bottom-heat, and the heat from the pipes can be shut off until the buds begin to swell ; excepting, of course, in frosty or very cold weather. In that case, the temperature should not exceed 45° for the first three weeks, and after that time the atmospheric warmth may be increased to 50°, and the plants sprinkled overhead once or twice a day with tepid water. It is also important to place them near the glass to keep the growth firm and short- jointed. To economize the fire-heat as much as possible, cover the glass with a mat or a little long litter. Unless the flowers are wanted at an early date, the temperature should not exceed 55° or 60°, as they last so much longer when expanded in a compara- tively cool temperature. Plants which do not exceed two feet in height may be forced in a ground vinery with very little trouble. In the first place excavate a trench, two feet deep, in an open sunny part of the garden, and fill with either tan or warm leaves, and place the vinery over it. The latter must be elevated on bricks placed closed together, and a little soil banked up against them to prevent the admission of cold air. By attention to covering them up at night, and opening the vinery only when the air is still and comparatively warm, very satisfactory result3 may be obtained. The beginning or middle of Februarj7 will be quite soon enough to commence forcing with the ground vineries. At all times use water a few degrees warmer than the atmospheric temperature. It must not, however, be used too hot, and the safest plan is to fill a can with water overnight and partly plunge it in the fermenting materials. Nearly all the subjects that are here named may be had in THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 343 flower a month or six weeks before the usual time if they are simply placed in a genial temperature of about 50°, without bottom-heat, but a mild bottom-heat, as suggested above, is preferable. It will also be well to observe that if possible the plants should have the benefit of an intermediate temperature before their removal to the conservatory, and failing that, place them in the warmest part, and be careful not to open the ventilators near them. Azalea amoena is one of the prettiest subjects we have for early flowering, and although usually treated as a greenhouse plant, it is as hardy as a rhododendron. Its lovely rose-coloured flowers form a charming contrast to the next on the list. Deutzia gracilis is certainly the best white-flowei-ed plant we have for early flowering. The Persian Lilac is also extremely useful, as much for the beauty and fragrance of the flowers as the ease with which it can be grown. Both the lilac and white varieties should be grown for early flowering. Double-Jloioerinq Plums and Peaclies are first-rate, and must have a prominent position where forced flowers are in request, the former for its beautiful pure white daisy-like flowers, and the latter for its lovely shades of rose, crimson, and carmine. Almonds give us a pleasing shade of pink, and must not be passed over. Rhododendrons and Ghent Azaleas are grand for conservatory decoration, but they must be forced slowly, as also must the Kahnias and Andromedas. Poses must not be forgotten, but the plants for forcing must be well established in pots, or they will not flower well. The best hardy herbaceous flowers for our purpose are Spiraea (Hoteia) Japonica, Dielytra spectahilis, and the Lily of the Valley, especially the striped-leaved variety. The variegated variety of Lilium Kicanso,fl. p>l; has a very beautiful appearance when grown in a little warmth. There are many other suitable subjects, but it is, perhaps, best to name a few only, and thus save the reader the necessity of having to make the selection himself. EOUGH-AKD-READY GAEDENINGL— No. VI. HE code of instructions usually given for planting, and the after-management of fruit-trees, is so elaborate that it frequently frightens the amateur out of the idea of cultivating a few fruits for his own consumption. Half the stereotyped directions are useless, and are ignored by the writers of them, so we may suppose their object is to make that appear difficult which is in reality quite easy. There are, of course, a few rules to be observed in connection with the management of fruit-trees, but as we proceed it will be seen that they are few, simple, and such as the merest novice can readily 844 THE FLOKAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. understand. Let us commence with the preparation of the soil. In the first place, the ground must be broken up to a depth of from eighteen to thirty inches, and the bottom spit brought to the surface if it is suitable. Here it will be necessary to observe that should the subsoil be composed of stiff clay or shingly sand, the trenching must be confined to turning over the top spit in the ordinary way, and then breaking up the subsoil and leaving it in the bottom of the trench. Manure is not necessary for newly-planted trees, unless the soil is chiefly composed of hungry sand, and then a light dress- ing of thoroughly-decayed manure will be of service. Very light soils and very heavy soils are not favourable to the production of fine crops of fruit, because in the former the crop ripens prema- turely, and in the other the trees continue growing until late in the autumn, and the wood in consequence is seldom properly matured. Much may, however, be done in counteracting these evils by the application of a dressing of marly clay on the sand, and a coat of sand or road-scrapings on the clay. But very rarely will this be required, for there are but few soils so thoroughly unsuitable for fruit growing. The best form of tree for small orshards is either the bush or pyramid, as they can be attended to, and the crop gathered more easily than from standards. In addition, they can be planted closer together, which admits of a larger number of varieties being grown in the same space. In nearly all the directions we see for selecting trees, the necessity of selecting fine regularly trained and well- finished trees is insisted on. This is all very well, but to have the very best trees to be met with in a first-rate nursery, a high price must be paid, which virtually prohibits some hundreds of would-be cultivators indulging in their cherished project. If a few hundred pounds is of no importance, buy the best-finished trees that are to be got ; otherwise, never mind if the trees are grown out of shape, and if they happen to be large and full of wood, so much the better, because there is then a good prospect of getting a speedy return. In other words, beauty is not of much consequence, and ugly trees, with plenty of good wood, are cheap and useful. They should be planted in rows at a distance from each other of about eight or ten feet, which will give them plenty of room, and enable the light and air to reach every particle of wood. Make the holes large enough in diameter to enable the roots to be spread out horizontally, and if it is a clay subsoil, place a few pieces of flat stone in the bottom of the hole to prevent the tap roots striking perpendicularly into it. The roots must not be buried too deep ; six inches of soil above the highest roots being quite sufficient. Spread the roots out carefully, and tread the soil in firm, and finally secure the trees to stout stakes, to prevent the wind loosening them. Autumn planting is to be preferred to winter or spring, as the soil is then much warmer, and more favourable for the develop- ment of the roots. Trees planted now, if well set with flower- buds, would, if desired, bear a good crop nest year ; but, unless the trees are strong, it is not wise to compel them to produce a crop the first year after planting. THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 345 The accompanying list will only include a few of the best Jarie" ties, and they will be named as nearly as possible in the order ot their ripening, and will only include those sorts which do well as pyramids. _ Apples.— Dessert : Devonshire Quarrenden, Early Harvest, Kerry Pippin, Adams's Pearmain, Cellini, Golden Pippin, King of the Pippins, Kibston Pippin, Cockle Pippin, Cox's Orange Pippin, Keddleston Pippin, Baddow Pippin. Kitchen: Alexander, Haw- thornden, Lord Suffield, Manx Codlin, Alfriston, Blenheim Orange, Dumelow's Seedling, Northern Greening. Chekeies.— Dessert : Belle d'Orleans, May Duke, Knights Early Black, Black Eagle, Bigarreau, Napoleon, Late Duke. Kitchen : Kentish, Morello. f . Peaks.— Doyenne d'Ete, Jargonelle, Williams's Bon Chretien, Marie Louise, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Autumn Bergamot, Beurre de Capiaumont, Beurre Bosc, Ne Plus Meuris, Winter Nelis, Princess of Wales. Plums.— Dessert : July Green Gage, Keine Claude Violette, Jefferson, Kirke's, Guthrie's Late Green, Coe's Golden Drop. Kitchen : Old Orleans, Victoria. S. H. 38EER-P8ST PSi PURCHASERS OF PL&1TS, SEEDS. ETC. SELECTIONS OF NEW EOSES OF 1869-70. HYBRID PEEPETUALS. Devienne Lamy. — Fine reddish carmine, some- what incurved, large ; vigorous. Emilie Raasburg. — Light rose, softened -witli white, large, globular ; vigorous. Madame Creyton. — Brilliant carmine, shaded rose ; petals tipped white, large, full ; vigorous. Marquise de Mortemart. — Beautiful white, tinted cen- tre, very large, very fine ; vigorous. Nardy Freres.— Violet rose, habit of "Madame Boll," very large, distinct and vigorous. Heine Blanche.— White tinted rose, from " La Reine," large ; vigorous. Thyra Hammerich. — Very light flesh, deep, large ; vigorous. Victor Le BiJwn. — Bright rosy carmine, distinct, good ; vigorous. TEAS. Celina Noirey. — Deep purple, inner petals light rose, very large, full, and good ; vigorous. La Tulipe. — White, tinted rose and lilac, full ; vigorous. 3Iarie Ducher. — fellow white, deeper base, large, full ; vigorous. Monplaisir. — Deep salmon, from Gloire de Dijon, large ; vigorous. NOISETTE. Margarita. — Deep yellow, edged white, shaded rose, large ; vigorous. 846 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. TWENTY-TWO GOOD PILLAE HOSES. Ackille Gonad, H.P. — Crimson ; on manetti. La Ducliesse de Homy, H.P. — Rose ; manetti. Due de Cazes, H.P. — Dark ; manetti. Triomphe des Beaux Arts, H.P. — Dark ; manetti. General Jacqueminot, H.P. — Crimson scarlet ; manetti, or own roots. ' Jean Goujon, H.P. — Deep rosy crimson ; manetti. Madame Cambaceres, H.P. — Rose ; manetti, or own roots. Jules Margottin, H.P. — Cherry ; manetti. | Victor Verdier, H.P. — Bright crimson ; manetti. Climbing Devoniensis, T. — Cream ; own roots. Gloire de Dijon, T. — Buff and salmon ; manetti, or own roots. Jaune Desprez, N. — Yellowish, tinged red, tender; manetti, or own roots. Madame Domage, H.P. — Rose ; manetti. Henry Dombrain, B. — Crimson ; manetti. Madame Boll, H.P. — Rose ; manetti. Mareclial Niel, N. — Golden yellow ; manetti, or own roots ; tender somewhat. Vicomte Vigier, H.P. — Dark ; manetti. Madame Soupert, H.P. — AVhite ; manetti. Paxton, B. — Rose ; manetti. Gloire de Bordeaux, T. — Rose ; manetti, or own roots. Admiral Nelson, H.P. — Bright crimson ; manettL Mrs. Rivers, H.P. — Tinted white ; manetti. Note. — Pillar roses should have a considerable hulk of extra rick material for their root action replenished every year, and when taken up, and their roots shor- tened, the heads should be proportionately reduced. TWENTY GOOD AUTUMN-BLOOMING EOSES. Hybrid Perpetuals. — La Duchesse de Morny, Jules Margottin, Mademoiselle de Cambaceres, Mademoiselle Knorr, Mademoiselle Noman, La France, Mademoiselle Charles Wood, Le Rhone, Louise Darzins, Victor Verdier, Vicomte Vigier, Alfred Colomb, Marguerite de St. Amand, John Hopper, General Jacqueminot, Comte de Nauteuil, Ch. Lefebvre, Ch. Verdier, Jpan Lambert, Princess Maty of Cambridge. Bourbon. — Souvenir de la Malmaison and Bourbon Queen. Tea. — Gloire de Dijon, Devoniensis, Vicotntesse de Cazes ; the last must be protected . China. — Mrs. Bosanquet. A SELECTION OF TEAS. Alba rosea, Bougere, Climbing Devoniensis, Devonimsis, Elise Sauvage, Gloire de Dijon, Goubalt, Homere, Boule d'Or, L'Enfant Trouve, La Tulipe, Madame Bravy, Madame Margottin, Madame Villermoz, Moire, Monsieur Furtado, Niphetos, President, Reine de Pays Bas, Reine de Portugal, Souvenir d'Elise, Souvenir d'un Ami, Triomphe de Luxembourg, Vicomtesse de Cazes. A SELECTION OF YELLOW EOSES. Deep yellow.— Cloth of Gold, Marechal Niel, Reine de Portugal, Vicomtesse de Cazes, La Boule d'Or, Jaune d'Or. Medium.— CeYmQ Forestier, Triomphe de Rennes, Jean Pernet, L'Enfant Trouve. Pale. — Solfaterre, Lamarque, Narcisse, Smith's yellow Noisette, Monsieur Fur- tado, Reine de Pays Bas. Tinted.— Gtlo'we de Dijon, Madame Margottin, Elise Sauvage, Reine de Portugal, Madame Falcot (apricot), Monplaisir. TWENTY- FOUE OF THE BEST EOSES FOE SUBUEBAN DISTETCTS. Gloire de Dijon, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Madame de Cambaceres, Duchesse de Morny, General Jacqueminot, Jules Margottin, John Hopper, Victor Verdier, Madame' Charles Wood, Rev. H. Dombrain, Alfred Colomb, Annie Wood, Vicomte Vigier, Pavilion de Pregny, Louise Darzins, Emotion, Madame Bravy, Madame Victor Verdier, Madame Domage, Madame Knorr, Madame Clemence Joigneaux, Baronne Prevost, Pauline Lanzezeur, Admiral Nelson, Mrs. Bosanquet. 547 NEW PLANTS. EROPEGIA SAXDERSOXI, Mr. Sanderson's Ceropegia (Bot. Mag., t. 5792). — A free-growing climber, introduced from Natal, bearing curious green and yellow flowers. Acer rufixerva alp.o-lineata, Bed-nerved Maple with white border (Bot. Mag., t. 5793). — A fine variety from Japan, with elegant almate leaves beautifully margined with white. Dorstexia akgentea (Silver-leaved Dorstenia (Bot. Mag., t. 5795). — A handsome variegated stove plant from South Brazil, bearing oblong-lanceolate leaves, with dark green margin and silvery grey centre. Dendrobium dexsiflorum albo-lutea, Dense-flowered Dendrole with white and yellow flowers (Bot. Mag., t. 5780). — A very beautiful variety of D. densi- florum, introduced by Messrs. Low and Co., Upper Clapton. Sepals and petals white, with rich orange-coloured lip. Vacclnium reflexum, Beflexed-leaved Whortle-lerry (Bot. Mag., t. 5781). — A beautiful pendulous rock plant. Leaves oblong-lanceolate, dark glossy green and slightly reflexed ; flowers deep red, and produced at the end of che branches. rLUlTEETA LDTEA. DlrLADENIA BOLIVIE>:sr-'. Plumeria lutea, Yellow-flowered Plumeria (Bot. Mag., t. 5779). — A beau- tiful stove tree, with large oblong leaves crowded at the ends of the branches, and large sweet-scented flowers which are blush-coloured in the outer parts of the petals, and pale yellow in the centre. Dipladexia Boliviensis, Bolivian Dipladenia (Bot. Mag., t. 5783). — A very beautiful climbing stove-plant, with narrow oblong leaves and pearly white salver- shp.ped flowers, with golden yellow centre. Will make a fine specimen for exhi- bition on account of its distinct colour. Introduced by Messrs. Yeitch and Sons, Chelsea. 348 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Deosophyllum lusitanicum, Portuguese Yellow Sundew (Bot. Hag., t. 5796). — An almost shrubby representative of our humble sundews. It has a -woody stem two or three inches high, narrow leaves four to eight inches long, and yellow flowers an inch or more across. Polycycnis lepida (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 1038). — A pretty and interesting orchid, intermediate between P. barbata and P. muscifera. Meiracyllidm gemma (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 988). — A small-growing species with erect leaves like those of Sophronitis cernua, and bearing solitary amethyst- coloured flowers. Pleurothallis Bowmannii (Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 989). — An interesting species, introduced to this country from Brazil by the late Mr. Bowman. Epidendrum meliosum {Gard. Chron., 1869, p. 989).— A botanical curiosity, introduced to this country from Mexico by W. W. Saunders, Esq. Griffinia dryades, Wood Griffinia (Bot. Hag., t. 5786).— A fine stove Amaryllid, from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil ; leaves ob- long-lanceolate, sub-acute, flowers rich lilac, blue in the outer part of the pe- tals, and white towards the centre, produced on a stem eighteen inches in height. Aphelandra acutifo- lia, Sharp-leaved Aphe- landra (Bot. Mag., t. 5789). — A beautiful stove shrub with oblong-ovate glossy green leaves, and spikes of bright vermilion red flowers. Well deserving general cultivation. Steriphoma parado- xum, Paradoxical Steri- phoma(Bot.Mag., t. 5788). — A fine figure of this good old species, which has been known to this country for many years past. Mob^a BULBIFERA, Bulbous Moraea (Bot. Mag., t. 5785).— A charm- ing Cape bulb, with ensi- form leaves and golden yel- low flowers. It is easily managed, and deserves to be more generally cultivated. Cotyledon Sulzmanni, Sulzmann's Cotyledon. — A beautiful rock plant, the foliage brilliant green, with red streaks, the flowers golden yellow, with red-brown spots at the tips of the corolla lobes. Nertera depressa, Depressed Nertera (Bot. Mag. t. 5799). — A tiny rubia- ceous hardy plant, quite insignificant when in flower, but soon after covered with spherical orange-coloured fruit, which give it a beautiful appearance. Bignonia purpurea, Purple-flowered Bignonia {Bot. Mag., t. 5800). — A magnificent stove climber, closely allied to B. speciosa ; the flower* are of a rosy purple colour. Mackaya bella, Natal MacTcaya (Bot. Mag., t. 5797). — A beautiful acan- thaceous shrub, with deep green ovate leaves and large racemes of semi-campanulate flowers, which are white, delicately marked with bright pink lines. Aerides Japonicum, Japanese Aerides (Bot. Mag., t. 5798). — " The presence of Aerides in so high a northern latitude is a remarkable fact in physical geography, as testifying to the warmth of the southern coasts of that archipelago, and to the extension of a Malayan type of vegetation to so high a parallel." GBIISINIA DEXADES. 349 THE GAEDEN GUIDE. Bab.— 29'92. Thee.— 40, 38,43,}. } Nofamfar* Wind.— S.W. Bain. — 23 in. Greenhouse Flowebs. — Acacia co- rymbosa, Coronilla glauca, Correa pul- chella, Chrysanthemums (see " Garden Oracle" for best varieties), Chimouan- thus fragrant, Cytissus Atleeanus, Camel- lias, Erica gracilis aufumnalis, E. caffra, Epacris nivalis compacta, Jasminum nudi- florum. Garden Flowebs. — Caltha sagittata, Aconitum aufumnalis, Aster grandijlorus, A. concolor, A. Sikkimensis, Cineraria auriculata, Saccharis dioscoridis, Bidens procera, Solidago laivifata, S. glomerata, Pyrola media, Lobelia glandulosa. The Weatheb. — This is usually a cheerless time ; temperature more constant than in any other month of the year, with frequent storms, and much atmospheric moisture. Flower Garden. — The weather has been so mild and open during the past month that the spring-flowering plants with which beds were filled in the middle of the month, in accordance with the advice given in our last number, are now nicely established, and growing freely. There is yet time to plant a greater part of the subjects named, if done quickly. Also plant Hyacinths and other bulbs as soon as possible, for although moderately good flowers may be had from bulbs planted at Christmas, they will be inferior to those produced by bulbs of a corresponding quality planted two or three months earlier. This is also a good season of the year for taking up, dividing, and replanting Lilies of all kinds. They are now begin- ning to make fresh roots, and will not feel the shift so much as when disturbed in the spring. The soil should be trenched up, and a liberal dressing of manure applied. Like all other plants, these exhaust the soil of the elements required for their growth, and unless renewed, it is impossible for them to make a vigorous growth. Push on the planting of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs as fast as possible, so as to get them in their places before the rains cool the earth too much. When the weather renders it necessary to take up the Dahlia tubers, cut the stem down to within sis or nine inches of the ground, and, after taking them up carefully, place them in a cool dry place, where they will be secure from frost. All tender or half-hardy plants must now be got under cover, but admit a free circu- lation of air about them in favourable weather. Take up and divide herbaceous plants, keep them out of the ground as short a space of time as possible, and take advantage of the opportunity for digging the ground up deeply, and applying a dressing of manure, or fresh soil, or a mixture of both. Frequently sweep and roll the lawns and paths to give them a fresh and bright appearance, and carefully preserve the fallen leaves for rotting down to leaf-mould. Greenhouse. — Guard against a damp stagnant atmosphere in this structure. Water the plants carefully, and without throwing much water upon the floor. When the atmosphere appears damp and stagnant, light a fire in the morning of a fine day, and open the ventilators at the same time, to enable the impure air to escape, Bulbous Flowers. — Allium azureum, Amaryllis crocata, A. grandijlora, A. pul- verulenfa, Crinum insigne, C. undulatum, Calosttmma luteuni, Oxalis fulgida, O. savguinea, Sternbergia Clusiana, Sisy- rinchium palmifolium, Strumaria stel- laris. Stove Flowers. — Aphelandra auran- tiaca, Begonia Clarkci, B. Ingrami, B. hydrocotifolia, Euphorbia jacquinoeflora Gesnera cinnabarina, O. refulgent, Gold- fussia isophylla, ITonockmtum sericeum mul- tiflorum, Cypripedium insigne* Lycaste Skinner i* Cattleya labiata* Lcelia albida. "Hath the rain a father ? or who hath begotten the drops of dew? Cut of whose womb came the ice ? and the hoary frost of heaven, who hath gendered it ? He that reproveth God, let him answer it." — Job xxxviii. 28 ; il. 2. 350 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN" GUIDE. and admit a fresh supply to take its place. Remove all decayed leaves, and train into shape Azaleas and other plants that need that attention. Keep Ericas, Epacris, and other plants of a like nature, at the coolest end of the house, and such things as Chinese Primulas and Cyclamens at the warmest end. The conservatory should now he gay with Chrysanthemums, and to enable the flowers to retain their fresh- ness as long as possible, maintain a dry atmosphere, and remove every leaf imme- diately it exhibits the least trace of decay. Gold and Silver Zonal and Show and Fancy Pelargoniums must be kept in a temperature of about 40° or 45° near the glass, and sheltered from cold currents of air. Stove. — Reduce the temperature of this structure to an average of 60D, with fire-heat alone, and a rise of five degrees with the aid of sun-heat. Keep the atmosphere much drier than hitherto, and water early in the morning, to enable the dampness therefrom to dry up before evening. Ferns must be carefully handled just now, a thorough rest is nearly as essential to their well-being as it is to flower- ing plants ; but whilst guarding against giving them too much water, carefully avoid their suffering for the want of that element. Orchids with fleshy pseudo-bulbs, like the Cattleyas, require just sufficient to keep them fresh and plump, but the Vaadas, and others of like habit, will require rather more. Encourage winter-flowering plants by placing them in the warmest corner of the house. Kitchen Garden. — Lift fall-grown Lettuce and Endive, with a good ball of soil, and place them rather close together in a cold frame or orchard-house, where they will be secure from frost. Dampness is the greatest euemy these subjects have to contend with at this season, and provided they can be kept dry by any means, a few degrees of frost will do them no harm. Look sharp after Cauliflower and Lettuce plants in frames, and remove every trace of mildew and decay directly it makes its appearance. Give full admission to the air, but keep the foliage dry, and protect from frost. Either ridge up or trench all remaining vacant quarters, as a thorough exposure to the atmosphere is nearly of as much importance to the ground as a dressing of manure. Fruit Garden. — Fruit-trees growing too luxuriantly must be root-pruned, and this is the best season of the whole year for performing that operation. Trees that have been undisturbed for many years past must be cautiously dealt with, and have only half the roots pruned now, reserving the other for next season. More re- cently planted trees may have the whole of the roots cut in at once. Open out a trench at a distance of two or three feet from the stem, according to the age of the tree, and after going deep enough to reach all the horizontal roots, work the spade underneath the ball to sever the tap-roots, which materially assist the production of gross badly-matured wood. Pits and Frames. — Auriculas must have air night and day in fine mild weather, and only have sufficient water to prevent the foliage becoming flaccid. The foliage must not be wetted on any consideration. Carnations, Pansies, and Picotees only require protecting from wet and frost, therefore the lights can be drawn off entirely in fine weather, and tilted at the back in mild wet weather. The stock of bedding plants must be frequently examined, and every attention paid to keep them clean and healthy. Mildew commits terrible havoc among the Verbenas at this season of the year, if allowed to get ahead, but if taken in time, and the foliage dusted with sulphur, it is comparatively harmless. Bedding Geraniums of all kinds need very little water just now, and if the leaves do flag a little now and then, it is of no consequence. It is far better to let them flag than to keep the soil too moist, or to give water in damp or dull weather. Forcing.— House Strawberry plants, or if the room cannot be spared indoors, form a stack out of doors in the shape of an inverted /^, which can be easily accomplished by laying the pots on their sides in layers one above the other. Prune Vines, Peaches, and Nectarines at once, thoroughly wash every particle of wood with warm water and soft soap, and then dress with Fowler's Insecticide or Gishurst's Compound. Pines must be kept quiet, and the atmosphere of all departments rather dry. The most suitable temperature for this and the next mouth is 60° for suckers and succession plants, and 70" for fruiting plants. Winter Cucumbers must have a genial growing temperature, and means should be adopted for covering the lights in very sharp weather to render less fire-heat necessary for maintaining the proper temperature ; both as a matter of economy, and for the sake of the health of" the plants, maintain a steady temperature of about 50D, and keep the beds in a moderately moist condition. 351 NEW BOOKS. Country "Walks of a Naturalist with his Children-. By the Rev. W. Houghton. (Groombridge and Sons.) — This is just the book to place in the hands of a boy or a girl fond of the country and natural history. It is beautifully got up, and illustrated sumptuously with coloured plates and woodcuts of the most striking objects dealt with. In a series of ten chapters, or "Walks" as they are termed in the book, Mr. Houghton discourses in a charming manner on Fishes, Birds, Insects, Flowers, Fungi, and other interesting objects to be met with during a country ramble at different seasons of the year. It is impossible to read the book without obtaining a vast mass of useful information, and it is equally impossible to commence its perusal without an anxious desire to dip deeper into its contents. Although the several subjects are dealt with in a way wThich will enable any boy of average ability to understand them, there is much to interest the adult reader, and by readers of all classes it is a book that can be profitably read either by the fireside or in the open air. We can heartily recommend it to the notice of all classes, and in doing so we feel assured that it is simply impossible to over-estimate the importance of giving the young access to books of this character, in preference to the " namby- pamby" style of literature usually provided for their entertainment. Gardening for the Cottage. By S. Wood. (W. Ridgway.) — A capital little work for distribution amongst the labouring classes. The cultural details are written in a plain manner, thus enabling the uneducated to comprehend their pur- port without any difficulty. TO CORRESPONDENTS. Books. — John Halliday, Duncrieff Gardens. — Any bookseller will procure " PaNton's Botanical Dictionary," the price of which is about 2os. " Bentham's Handbook of British Plants," and " Moore's Handbook of British Ferns," will be the most suitable works for your purpose. Hink's Petroleum Stoves for Small Houses. — Subscriber, Taunton. — These stoves are admirable for the above-mentioned purpose ; and, so far as our expe- rience goes with them, there is no danger of an explosion with ordinary care. The large size will be the most serviceable, especially in severe weather. Guano for Garden Plots. — Novice. — The usual allowance on farm lands is 3 cwt. of guano per acre. As much as 5 cwt. per acre may be used in gardens, and there can be no better reviver of a worn-out grass plot. As you say you know nothing of land measure, you will understand the case by the aid of a few figures. Five hundredweight (120 lb.) give us 600 lb. in all. As there are 160 rods to the acre, 41b. per rod require 6401b. ; say, therefore, from 31b. to 4 lb. of guano per rod. A rod contains 272 square feet of land. Protecting Cannas and Erythlnas. — R. G. S., Bedfordshire.— The latter may either be allowed to remain in the open ground, or be taken up and potted and placed in an outhouse. They grow and flower more vigorously when not taken up, and a moderate thickness of dry litter will form an efficient means of protection. The greatest risk in leaving them out all the winter is from the mice, which are fond of nibbling the buds near the ground, which unfortunately are those required for supplying the flowering wood the following season. The canna roots can remain in their present quarters all the winter if the soil is well drained, otherwise it will be safest to lift them, and store in a cellar. The dark-leaved kinds, and the new French hybrids are rather tender in constitution, therefore it will not be desirable to leave the roots in the beds for fear of an accident. Barbe de Capucin. — S. S. S. — This is simply the chicory of the English gardens. The roots are stacked close together in a mushroom-house or warm cellar, where they furnish a continuous supply of blanched leaves for the salad-bowl. Grow the roots in just the same way as parsnips are managed. Of course the crowns of the roots must be placed upwards. 352 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. "Watering Fruit Trees during the Winter. — Anxious Inquirer. — Trees growing under cover, whether in pots or planted in borders, must not be kept dust dry at the roots during the winter. Those planted in outside borders will be able to take care of themselves ; but others in pots, or where the borders are entirely under cover, will require watering two or three times during the winter. The soil must be maintained in a moderately moist condition, for when allowed to become dust dry, the roots become shrivelled, and the flower-buds drop off wholesale in consequence immediately the sap gets into active circulation in tbe spring. It is not desirable that the soil in which pot-trees are planted should be frozen, therefore stand the trees rather close together, and pack a thick layer of dry leaves or hay about the pots. Frame tor Wintering Bedding Plants. — W. P. — A frame erected as you propose would answer admirably. The flue ought not to be covered with soil or ashes, or the heat from it will cause a steam to rise when the material with which it is covered is the least damp. Place a layer of coal-ashes in the bottom to stand the pots upon. Sufficient heat to keep out the frost is all that will be required. Furnishing a Cold Conservatory during the Winter. — R. SehilbacTc, Dartmouth Park. — You might fill the house with chrysanthemums now, and as they go out of bloom supply their places with a few hardy shrubs, including such things as Yucca fUamentosa variegata, Y. gloriosa, Y. recurva, Jasminum nudi- florum, J. grandiflorum, Laurestinus, Aralia Sieboldi, A. Sieboldi variegata, A. papyrifera, Phormium tenax. The Aucubas are highly ornamental, especially when loaded with their brilliant coral-like berries. The variegated Ligustrums, Euonymus, and others of like character, will also be serviceable. Several winter-flowering Heaths are sufficiently hardy to stand a few degrees of frost without injury, as also are the Camellias. You will find all the information you require in the past volumes of the Floral World, and you will do well to treat yourself to a set. The ferns will grow without a glass, but will make better progress with that protection. "We never recommend dealers, and are, therefore, unable to comply with your request and we have not time to answer correspondents through the post, however anxious we may feel to oblige them. Grapes for Cool Vinery. — F. J. B., Tipper Norwood. — If you are afraid to plant the Goldeu Champion, substitute either Buckland Sweetwater or Royal Mus- cadine for it. A few complaints have been made respecting the constitution of the first-named variety, but we believe the weakness to arise solely through the young plants being forced too hard in the propagating-house, as the resources of the firm who sent it out were taxed to the utmost to meet the enormous demand. We have received several favourable accounts, however, of its behaviour, and it has in some places made stout rods twenty feet long during the first season after planting. The Hamburgh, known as theFrankenthal, is the best for cool vineries. Floral World Volumes. — H. W., Manchester. — The volumes of the Floral World for 1867 and 1868 are to be had by order of any bookseller, price 7*. 6d. each. Wintering Myrtles and Scarlet Geraniums. — A Lady Amateur. — Spe- cimens of these can be wintered safely in a shed or outhouse, provided the frost cannot reach them, although a greenhouse or orchard-house is preferable. The geraniums should be kept quite dry at the roots, but the soil in which the myrtles are growing must be just moist , and no more. The Garden Oracle for 1870 is announced for early publication, by Messrs. Groombridge and Sons, 5, Paternoster Row. — The speciality of the forthcoming issue is a new and select list of the choicest dessert fruits, so arranged as to indi- cate the seasons when they severally attain perfection, the mode of culture, and their respective adaptation to large and small gardens, to forcing and high fruit- growing establishments, and the most humble and unpretending amateur's garden. 'The descriptions of new plants, new flowers, new fruits, new vegetables, and new horticultural inventions and appliances, are to he as full and accurate as usual, and the greatest care has been taken to render the selection of flowers, fruits, etc., for 1870, as perfect as the most critical and cautious amateur could desire. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. DECEMBER, 1860. BEAUTIFUL IVIES. ( With illustrative plate of Ivy leaves.) T is not possible by any description or eulogy, much less by the technical enumeration of species and varieties attempted in another part of this issue of tbe Eloeai, Would, to convey to our readers any adequate idea of the beauties of many kinds of garden ivies. Therefore it is that we have attempted the representation of a selected few, that we may be the better understood when we speak of these plants as eminently deserving the attention of cultivators on account of their many and varied uses. It may appear, indeed, to many of our friends, that an apology is needed on our part, for attaching so much importance as we do to a group of plants which are repre- sented by the hardiest and commonest of British sylvan weeds (for we do not mind designating the ivy of the woods a " weed "), and for once we will apologize, in the hope that what shall be said in that sense may have some interest for the public generally, and of our readers in particular. It is not because we have made a careful study of the garden ivies, and arranged them under new names, in a new classification expressly adapted to facilitate collecting them, and to indicate their characters and relationships, that we give them prominence as plants of the highest value for the embellishment of the garden. It is because they are hardy and need but little expenditure of money and time to bring out their characters effectively, and because, also, that those characters entitle them to high regard, for we may seek far and wide for any similarly hardy and free-growing group that could be put into competition with them for a place of highest honour. We are bound to say, too, in defence of this hobby, that few can question its integrity, because at present few are acquainted with the subject. At all events, the writer of this has travelled far and wide in search of beautiful plants, and has never met with a YOL. iv. — NO. XII. 23 354 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. collection of ivies to equal his own, whether as to number of varieties or the beauty of the individual plants ; so if you will allow it, we will end the apology with a bit of boasting, and after fifteen years' assiduous application to a neglected subject, it would argue a sad waste of time if one had nothing to boast about. Apologies < and boastings done with, let us now be practical. We meet with five or six kinds of ivies usually in British gardens. The Irish ivy, usually designated Hedera Canariemis (in the new classification designated " grandifolia") ; the "British ivy," or Hedera helix of the botanists; the Asiatic ivy, H. colchica of botanists, and H. Eegneriana of gardens ; with two or three variegated leaved kinds, which have a magnificent appearance when, after many years' growth, they are seen sheeting a great breadth of wall. These few afford hints that ivies might be turned to some account, but when we have secured a good collection, it will be a matter of constant surprise and delight to find amongst them an almost unparalleled diversity of forms and colours, befitting them for a multitude of uses to which, speaking in a general way, ivies have never yet been applied at all. Perhaps it will convey a better idea of what may be done with ivies if a few words are said on the uses to which they have beeu put by the writer of this. In the experimental garden they have afforded many distinct and striking features of embellishment. On the rockery-bastion, long since figured and described in the Floral Would, we have grown about twenty of the most distinct varieties. The Asiatic ivy threw over one of the arches a splendid mantle of huge, leathery, ovate leaves, which might be likened to the herbage of Aristolochia sipho, though very different in texture and colour. In another part a fine sheet of the variegated Irish ivy, known in catalogues as the " golden blotched " ivy (now designated " pallida"). This displayed broad masses of leaves of the clearest primrose or amber colour, in many cases without a particle of green, intermixed with leaves partially variegated and alternating with breadths of the same plant, with the glossy deep green hue of the normal " Irish " ivy. Another variety of the Irish ivy, with the leaves uniformly blotched with yellowish-grey variegation, the stems and foot-stalks shining out conspicuously, owing to their fioe reddish purple colour. Two remarkable varieties of H. helix adorned another part of the bastion, meeting above on one of its arches. One of these is the " chrysocarpa" of the catalogues (now designated " pedata"), this has deep green leaves, each divided into five narrow segments, presenting an admirable resemblance to the foot of a bird. The other was the variety called " digitata," the leaves of which are divided into five lobes that very nearly resemble an outstretched human hand. The colour of this is a deep blackish green, with con- spicuous grey veins. Of smaller growth, and more refined in their beauty, are the " marginate " varieties, with small leaves broadly margined with creamy variegation, the inner disks a bluish-tinted green. In winter a few of this section acquire a fine tone of purplish red on the edges of all the leaves. Such then is one of the uses of beautiful ivies ; they offer a most delightful diversity of attractions to THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 355 a ruin or rockery, and when once established make a free rapid growth, and afford entertainment of a far higher order than can even be imagined by those who are unfamiliar with their characters. To speak of ivies as suitable to clothe the ground under trees, and to add to the beauty of mounds, and to fill up nooks where scarcely any other kinds of plants will grow, is to repeat a thrice- told tale. But hitherto only one or two sorts have been used for these purposes, whereas there are about thirty that are suitable, and amongst these will be found many curious and interesting forms, and a few that are richly variegated. When we speak of ivy edgings, we tap a nearly new subject. In grassy country gardens these are not so much needed, but in town gardens and in the entrance courts in the country, and especially in public gardens and promenades, ivy edgings are invaluable. The common Irish ivy forms a sumptuous marginal line where a good breadth can be afforded it, and grows more freely in almost any kind of soil than any other ivy known. For a finishing feature to a great raised bed of evergreen shrubs, or a block of roses, it is truly grand, but, strange to say, we meet with but few examples. But let us step a stage higher. What have we now to entertain us in the parterre ? Perhaps nothing. Now, a good deal of thought and labour are bestowed upon the production of marginal lines of silvery- leaved and golden-leaved plants, and in almost every case preference is given to tender subjects that cease to be useful with the first accession of frost. Here, then, the variegated ivies will prove fast and faithful friends if we will have them. All the small-leaved silvery- tinted kinds make the neatest and brightest edgings imaginable, and are as good all winter as they are all summer ; like the " daisy that never dies," these hardy, bright-leaved, pliable plants keep their beauty for ever, and are always improving with advancing age. It may be rather slow work at first, but there will be much joy at last for those who will do them justice. Tet once more as to the uses of the ivies. You have heard enough, perhaps, of the " plunging system," and the details of its working as carried out in the experimental garden. You shall not be troubled again upon that subject now, but it must be mentioned, because we owe to our development of that system a knowledge of the immense value of the ivies as pot plants, both for the furnishing of the garden and the conservatory during winter. Amongst all the evergreen shrubs that are adapted for winter furnishing, the ivies must take the lead, and whoever will have patience with them will be well rewarded. Without patience, however, there can be no satisfactory result, for a few years at least must pass ere the culti- vator can become possessed of handsome specimens. We know of but two modes of training the plants when grown in pots. We have tried all the modes of training that could be thought of, and found at last that the form of a cone is the best for climbing ivies, and the form of a free branching bush the best for the tree ivies, though most of these last may also be trained into cones with as little trouble as the true climbing sorts. All our pot ivies are grown freely. By that term we intend to imply that they are not starved, 356 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. that they have an annual top-dressing of manure, and are repotted as often as they appear to need it, but are commonly put in the same size pots again, a portion only of the old soil being removed from their roots. It is astonishing what huge, bonny, bosky plants may be grown in comparatively small pots if they are annually top- dressed and have plenty of water from the middle of April to the end of June, to assist the growth of the season. The variegated kinds make fine conservatory plants, and, as a rule, the silvery — that is, the grey and creamy tinted kinds — are more valuable than the golden, or those which have yellow variegation. For the parterre, however, the golden-leaved varieties are most valuable when the plants become large with age and densely furnished, as they are then abundantly and richly variegated, and their golden leaves shine out gaily amongst the rich deep green of the general collection, making the dull winter days glad as with streaks of sunshine the summer has left behind. Enough may be said, even about ivies, perhaps ; and we must bring these notes to a close with all the haste possible. As to the varieties, then, best adapted for garden uses, the reader will find further on a technical description of our collection, which has been reduced to fifty in number, in order to comprise only the most distinct and beautiful — all indistinct and comparatively unat- tractive kinds having been sent to a place called limbo, so that we shall neither see nor hear of them more. Now a bit of plain truth will be no harm, perhaps. It is a fact, then, that amateurs who have a taste for collections in order to make a study of families and variation of types, and to secure also a number of beautiful objects, may safely obtain and keep for their lasting entertainment all the fifty sorts enumerated in our monograph on the subject. It is a fact, also, that for every one collector who will hunger and thirst after them all, there will be a thousand (or thereabout) who will prefer a few of the most striking and free-growing varieties where- with to decorate their walls, and rockeries, and parterres and con- servatories. We must leave the collectors, and consider the necessities of the thousands, and so what should now follow is a selection for limited liability purchasers. Taking them in the order in which they are enumerated in the monograph, the following claim priority of attention for variety and beauty : — Hedera helix, the common ivy of the woods, makes a charming pot plant, and is one of the best for clothing the ground under trees, and also for marginal lines, where something cheap and green, but not over-choice, is required. Six green-leaved varieties of if. helix may be selected with safety. Ileterophylla is remarkably fresh in colour, being of a deep grass-green hue; the leaves vary in form from that of a broad shield without lobes to a small oval or three-lobed leaf. Tortuosa has narrowish leaves of a blackish-green hue, highly polished, and every one twisted in much the same way as the leaves of the twisted holly. Lucida is well known as the " Poet's ivy." The leaves are large, distinctly lobed, the colour a rich full green in summer, changing to a fine chocolate or purplish bronze hue in winter. It is the moat THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 357 highly-polished of all ; hence named lucida, the " shining ivy." Nigra is of small size, extremely neat, and almost black. Dig'itata is a splendid variety for a wall or ruin ; the leaves are "finger like," very dark in colour, with conspicuous grey veius. Pedata, the foot-leaved ivy, has long narrow lobes, the colour a dull dark green ; a great mass of it on a grey wall, has a most elegant appearance. Pour variegated-leaved varieties of H. helix may be recommended. Chrysophylla makes but little show while the plants are young ; but old plants, somewhat starved and pot-bound, make an abundance of leaves of a clear deep yellow colour ; it has a most charming appear- ance in autumn, and throughout the winter. Mary inata grandis is a magnificent silver-leaved variety, fit for any purpose, forming a sumptuous edging, and a most welcome pot plant for the parterre or the conservatory. Marginata major is a shade less valuable than the last, though the leaves are more silvery. It is less attractive as a pot plant than the last, but, perhaps, surpasses it when employed as an edging to flower-beds, being whiter in summer and autumn, and in winter having a reddish tone mingled with its glistening of silver. Marginata rubra is a weak grower, with very small leaves. We have valued it much for lighting up groups of ivies in winter beds, both because of its clear creamy variegation and the decided tone of deep red that overspreads the plant from October to March, after which the red colour disappears. It grows very slowly, and the owner of it must have patience. All the arborescent varieties of H. helix are valuable, but we will only name a few of the most beautiful. Baccifera lutea, the "yellow-berried" ivy, is an extremely beautiful shrub, branching out into a compact convex form, as if moulded by an artist, and scarcely ever needing the pruning-knife. The leaves are uniformly ovate, without lobes, of a cheerful glossy grass green hue. It bears berries in extravagant profusion ; they are of a dull orange hue, and when ripe the plant is at once a curiosity, and one of the loveliest gems of the winter-garden. You know Skimmia Japonica, perhaps. "Well, this yellow-berried ivy is a handsomer plant, say three times handsomer at the very least, and it grows — the peculiarity of the (Skimmia is that it don't grow ; it stands still from now till then, and vexes you to stretch it by pulling, and that you would do if you could only put leaves on when you had made it taller. (N.B. Our Skimmiasare such a mass of berries this season that it is a comfort they cannot read the foregoing, for to put the yellow-berried ivy above them is a daring deed. But what we have written we have written, and the (Ecumenical Council shall not erase a word.) Argentea major is the finest silver-leaved tree ivy. It is not adapted for an edging ; but as a pot plant to plunge in beds during winter, or to light up a cool conservatory, is worth a guinea a leaf at least. Probably you may buy a plant with fifty leaves for half-a-crown ! Aurea grows freely, and when old shows an abundance of deep clear orange-coloured variegation. (N.B. Yellow isiuvaluable in winter, as you may prove by comparing the yellow-berried with the red- berried holly ; we cannot part with either, but the first is most conspicuous in the landscape.) 358 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. The " Irish ivy " needs no praise- For free growth, lusty green- ness, adaptation to any soil or situation, what is there to surpass it ? Simply nothing, and that question is disposed of. Tou see that a connoisseur in ivies can appreciate the cheapest of them all, and give to the universal favourite the praise that is its due ; in other words, a love of ivies need not, of necessity, weaken one's love of truth. Wonderful conclusion ! Of Hedera grandifolia (the " H. Canariensis " of the books) the finest varieties are viridis (" Algeriensis " of the books), the most truly " green-leaved " of all the family, a rampant grower, with immense leaves, usually cuspid-lobed, the colour a light, cheerful grass green. Pallida, a dashing variegated plant, very inconstant, but eminently showy. A bad pot plant, but grand for a great wall. Maculata is one of the finest variegated kinds in cultivation, every leaf alike splashed and spangled with amber grey — a grand plant in a pot, a grand plant on a wall, and awfully grand as an edging in poor soil with plenty of room. For a great entrance-court or terrace-walk this would make edgings of the loudest character allowable. Hedera coriacea, the well-known " Eegneriana" of gardens, is scarcely a good pot plant, though every ivy, if well-grown, is worth pot-culture. But on a wall, a summer-house, or a warm, sunny bank, it is grand, the leaves are so large, so thick, so rich in colour, and so glossy. A cold soil and a dark spot will kill this ivy — as we dis- covered to our cost in the experimental garden, where it was planted as an edging to a rhododendron bed in a cold damp situation, and it never grew at all ; so, after three years' waiting for it, we removed it, and planted Irish ivy in its stead. This grew more in one year than the other did in three, so we learned something by that experiment. The arborescent form of H. coriacea, which we have named Dendroides, is a grand shrub to plant under trees, or grow in pots. It is so peculiar in character that no one unused to ivies will believe that it is one, so if you go in for Hederas, beware of doubts as to your veracity when you say to your won- dering friend, " This, too, is an ivy, but how much like a rhodo- dendron, isn't it r" Do you want to see ivies ? No difficulty. Go to Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son's Nursery, St. John's "Wood. Tou will see there a great collection. Eemember, also, that Mr. Turner, of Slough, has a fine lot. If at any time in the neighbourhood of Islington, get a peep at the " Green," and see Irish ivy as an edging ; and as the place was laid out and planted by the writer of this, you may find a moment's amusement in criticising said writer's notions of town gardening. If you should visit Mr. Headly of Stapleford, see the summer house in his garden clothed with Hedera coriacea. If you drive down the road to Ware, look out for a great chaplet of ivy in a forecourt on the lelt side of the road in Tottenham, and for a great wall of variegated ivy on a substantial residence just before you reach Ponder's End. If you — but, oh dear, there are so many glorious screens and poles of ivy to be found, that THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 359 we say, passim, passim, passim, and put down the pen and go to bed. Details at some future time. XTlie varieties represented in the plate are the following : — 1, -2". helix Nigra; 2, H. h. Aurea ; 3, H. h. Lucida s; 4, H. grandifolia Pallida ; 5, H. g. Maculata ; G, H. h. Ghrysophylla ; 7, R. h. Margi- nata grandis. S. H. 6 E WINTER-FLOWERING HEATHS. BY JOHN MALLEB, Brunswick Nursery, Tottenham. jlEATHS are generally considered to be so difficult to manage that amateur plant-growers are afraid to take them in hand. The difficulty, if there is a difficulty, does not, however, consist in their requiring any extra- ordinary treatment, but rather in their having the necessary attention at the right moment. Unlike many soft- wooded plants, which can be allowed to flag for a considerable time without serious injury, the heaths must not suffer a moment for the want of moisture at the roots ; for if the soil gets dust-dry, the foliage will assuredly fall off, and leave the plant a mass of bare wood if it happens to survive the shock. On the other hand, too much moisture at the roots will produce results equally disastrous, though not so quickly accomplished. The heaths have many claims upon amateurs, because they take up very little space, bloom at a season of the year when flowers are comparatively scarce, and require no expense for fire-heat beyond what is necessary to keep the frost from them. They can, in fact, be grown altogether without fire-heat, if they are sufficiently protected with mats or litter. The most difficult part of heath-growing is propagation ; and it will be as well fur those who have not much practical knowledge of plant-growing to buy in a stock of young plants just potted into small GO's. This will save much time, and, perhaps, disappoint- ment. However, it will not do to pass it over, for there are hun- dreds of amateur growers who take double the pleasure in cultivating plants raised by themselves from cuttings than others which have been bought in. But it will be well to point out at once that, unless the following conditions can be complied with, it will be better to leave it alone. In January, a plant of each sort that is to be propagated must be placed in a temperature of about 50 \ and be kept near the glass. This is necessary to start the young side-shoots into active growth, and draw them slightly. When they have attained a length of from half to three-quarters of an inch, slip them off with the finger and thumb ; then remove a few of the lower leaves by the same process, and iusert the cuttings rather thickly in five-inch pots prepared in the usual way. But in preparing the pots, be careful to have them well-drained, and the peat and the layer of sand on the surface made very firm. The cuttings must be kept in the same temperature 360 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. as advised above for starting the old plants, and if the house is not kept rather close, it will be necessary to place the cutting-pots under a hand-light, with the top lifted at all times to admit a little air. It is a very common practice to cover the cutting-pots with bell-glasses, but its adoption is decidedly injurious, and thousands of cuttings are lost annually from this cause alone. "Watering is very important : you must only give sufficient to Lkeep the sand and soil moderately moist. The cuttings must not remain in the cutting-pot a day after they are rooted ; therefore, as soon as they have a few healthy young roots, pot off singly into small 60's. Here it will be necessary to pause and say a few words about the manner of potting, and the most suitable compost. This, however, can be dismissed with few words. The soil must consist of good fibry peat, broken up rather roughly, and mixed with about a fourth part of sand. The pots must be clean, and have an inch of rather small crocks placed carefully in the bottom for drainage. In potting ram the soil in as firm as pos- sible, and in shifting into larger pots, see that the soil is filled in regularly, to prevent the possibility of the water running down on one side, and thus preventing the ball of soil being wetted equally all through. As they are potted off, place in a cold frame, and keep rather close for a fortnight, and then increase the ventilation gradually, and in about a month after potting remove the lights altogether, or stand the plants on a bed of coal-ashes outside, where they will have free exposure to the sun and air. The only attention necessary during the stay in the open air will be to keep them properly supplied with water, and to stop the young shoots once or twice, as may be necessary to lay the foundation of a bushy specimen. In September remove to the greenhouse, keep close to the glass, and expose them to no more artificial heat than is really necessary to exclude the frost, or keep the atmosphere dry and sweet. The only enemy likely to attack them at this stage is mildew, which can easily be destroyed by dusting the foliage with sulphur before it gets a too firm hold. In April shift into five or six-inch pots, and, after a month or six weeks' probation in a cold frame, remove to the open air. No stopping must be practised, unless it be in very exceptional cases. When plants have the growing points of the shoots nipped out once or twice during the second year's growth, they grow so dumpy that it is impossible to see the flowers to advantage. Whereas, when no stoppage is practised, a plant in a six-inch pot will produce from twenty to thirty strong shoots eighteen inches in height, each of which will form perfect pyramids of bloom at the proper season. One reason why some people fail in flowering them satisfactorily is simply because the first growth is stopped, and the second, for want of time, is insufficiently matured. Another cause arises through shading the plants during the summer ; whereas, they ought to be fully exposed to the sun ft all times. Eeturn the stock to the greenhouse again in September, when the earliest kinds will soon begin to flower. In the March following THE ELOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 361 cut the main shoots back to within two or three inches of their base, and as soon as the young shoots are three-quarters of an inch long, shift into pots one size larger, and deal with them as advised the previous season ; and continue the same treatment every spring until they get too large, when they can be thrown away to make room for others. The earliest of the winter-flowering kinds is the pretty white- flowered ,caffra ; and then follow, in the order in which they are named, gracilis autumnalis, pink, flowers small, but produced very profusely ; colorans, white ; Jiyemalis, purplish-rose, tipped with white, one of the very best ; Wilmoreana, rose, tipped with white ; gracilis vernalis, like the autumn gracilis, but flowers in February. In conclusion, it is only necessary to say that these directions apply with equal force to the management of ten plants or ten thousand. THE CAMELLIA AS A HAKDY SHEUB. BY ROBEBT OTTBRIDGE. Church Walk Nursery, Stoke Newington, N. |?f EEHAPS many of the readers of this communication will be surprised when told that Camellias can be grown and flowered in the open-air in this country ; and also that they are as hardy as a large number of shrubs used ex- tensively for garden embellishment. Such, however, is the case and in sheltered situations not too far north they may be planted in beds out of doors with every reasonable chance of their growing well and flowering freely. In advisinc the outdoor culture of Camellias, I am not recom- mending the adoption of anything of an experimental character, because it has repeatedly been proved that it can be done, and that, too in a somewhat unfavourable situation. In confirmation of this, let me cite an instance : — In the year 1852 a plantation of camellias was formed by Mr. Gr. Taylor, a respected member of the horti- cultural community, in his employer's gardens on Stamford Hill. The plantation consisted of two large beds on the lawn, disposed and planted in precisely the same manner as rhododendrons are managed. The natural soil, a heavy loam, was taken out to a depth of three feet, and replaced with a mixture of peat and loam, obtained from "Wanstead, Essex. It is, however, of no consequence where the soil comes from, provided the loam is silky in texture, and the peat full of fibre. The beds were thus prepared, and in the spring of the above-mentioned year were planted with a fine lot of half- specimens, averaging three feet high, and comprising about sixty of the best varieties known. Here they made rapid progress, aided by the rains and night-dews, which are, no doubt, far superior to the best of our showers from engines and syringes. They had and required little or no attention beyond shortening here and there a few rampant-growing shoots, to preserve the uniformity of the mass. 362 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Every year in April they presented a magnificent appearance. They not only flowered profusely, but generally speaking tbe flowers were fine in quality. The old Double-White maintained its high character as, what shall I say? — as "a bedding plant;" Corallina was, of course, a blaze of glory ; and Tricolor was gay and more of a "tree carnation" than any dianthus was ever known to be. This went on for six successive years, and then the killing frost of 1860 cut them to the ground, and the old stools were taken up and destroyed. They were not, however, completely killed, and had they been taken up and cut back to stumps a foot or so long, and then potted in the smallest pots possible, and placed in a warm, moist, darkish house, to be gently forced into growth, they would, in three years, have made good bushes again. A collection growing out of doors at Chandler's Nursery, Vauxhall, was also cut down in the same way and at the same time. It will thus be seen that camellias may be grown in beds as rhododendrons are, and with just the same kind of treatment. In the northern counties they may not do well, but in the midland and southern districts there can be no more risk attached to the growth of camellias in the open-air than hundreds of other subjects that are not a whit more hardy — say, for example, the lovely little Azalea amoana, which does well here as an outdoor shrub, and although cut down at the same time, and in the same manner as camellias, two years afterwards it was as buxom with leaves and flowers as if it had never been hurt. There is now growing in Her Majesty's gardens, at Osborne, a splendid specimen of the old Variegata, which has been in the open air for many years past, and was this spring a picture of health and beauty ; loaded as it was with its bright and richly-coloured flowers, which were quite equal to others grown under glass. To make the plants as secure from frost as possible, the surface of the bed should be covered wTith a good thickness of dry straw, or leaves, shaken loosely amongst the plants ; and to prevent the pro- tecting material being blown away, lay a few heavy stones or logs of wood on the top. As camellias were not killed by the frost of 18G0-61, and as it is likely enough there may not be such another for a century, the planting of camellias out of doors is as safe a proceeding as many others that find favour with spirited amateurs in decorative gardening. The Fruit of Tacsonia Van Volxemi. — Many who admire this plant for its beautiful bloom are not aware that tbe fruit is edible. Messrs. Barr and Sugden, King Street, Covent Garden, have recently bad some examples, and they are not only edible, but really delicious, resembling Passiflora edulis, but sweeter, and superior to the Granadilla, or pumpkin-fruited passion-flower. The fruit is nearly six incbes long, and about an inch and a quarter through at the widest part, with a very stout stalk, tapering very gradually from the base to the apex, and irregularly and obscurely ribbed. 563 THE LADIES' GARDEN.— No. XI. BY J. C. CLARKE, Head Gardener at Cothelston House, Taunton. DECORATION OE FLOWER-BEDS DURING "WINTER. [,HOSE who are not disposed to use bulbs, or the her- baceous plants which I have in previous numbers recommended for filling the flower-beds during winter, may produce a very pretty effect by the judicious use of small ornamental and variegated shrubs ; and these, with care, may be made to do the same duty for several suc- cessive years. Undoubtedly, the best way is to grow them in pots ; but, as the majority of people may consider that a troublesome plan, the next best way is to secure a shady spot for them during the summer, under a wall or fence. The soil of the spot they occupy in summer should be deep, and rather light and sandy. "When it is time to put out the summer bedders, the shrubs should be trans- ferred to this spot, and planted immediately, with great care, at suitable distances apart, and be well watered after planting. They would be benefited immensely if they could have at this time a mulch, two inches thick, of good half-rotten manure, covering every bit of soil between the plants. In the absence of manure, use the same thickness of the grass-mowings from the lawn. They will be sure to want water several times during the summer ; and when short grass is used for mulching, repeat the application after every watering, as it soon withers up. The mulching not only saves labour in watering, but it keeps the soil round the roots in a more uniform degree of moisture. There is no lack of subjects adapted to the purpose, nor does it require an extravagant outlay even in the first instance. The selec- tion of plants must be made according to the peculiarities and position of the place ; and when they are put into the beds they must not be huddled together as if they were promiscuously dropped from the clouds. Their heights and colours should be studied, and so arranged, that every plant in every group is seen to the best advantage. If our lady readers would only try the use of these subjects for the winter dressing of the flower-garden, I am sure they would ultimately become attached to them ; for what can be more eheerl'ul in the dull months of winter than the variegated hollies ? Indeed, some of them are remarkable for their chaste and rich leaf- colouring. Let us suppose we have a round bed to set out ; we will choose for a centre four or five plants of Rhododendron poniicum, and then two or three lines deep round the bed with plants, decreas- ing in size from the centre outwards, of the different varieties of variegated Sollies, the result will be a cheerful and pleasing scene all the winter. Then we have, for another, the Aucuba Japonica, or " variegated laurel," and the green and golden-leaved Muonynms, 364 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. some of which are quite hardy in the southern and western counties. All these may he used separately or together, according to taste ; but when all the above-named subjects are mingled together according to their respective heights, they create an effect that makes a deep and lasting impression on all who witness it. The centre bed of our flower-garden is this year filled in this way, and its appearance is most beautiful, and will continue so until the plants are removed for the summer bedders. Besides these, we have the green Hollies to choose from, the different varieties of Box, the Irish and the common Yew, the Chinese and American Thuias, the Laurestinus, the Phillyrea, and several other ornamental shrubs that any nursery can furnish. There are one or two real gems for this work that every one ought to grow in pots ; for the trouble of doing them well is insig- nificant in comparison to their worth. One of the best is Crataegus pyracantha. Another beauty is Garrya elliptica. The first is a brilliant berry-bearing shrub, often seen upon warm walls, glowing and glistening with its coral-like berries at this time of year. The Garrya is a scarce and choice evergreen shrub, that ought to be grown for the sake of its long tasselled inflorescence produced during the early part of winter. All the variegated Euonymus are best grown in pots, in a rather poor sandy soil, or the variegation is likely to run out. Another suitable subject for pots is the Jasminum nudiflorum, which produces its cheerful yellow flowers through the winter, while the plant is leafless. It is evident, then, that there is no scarcity of material wherewith to render the garden as cheerful during winter (taking the nature of the season into consideration) as it is during summer, and that, too, without any great effort or expense. With the exception of varigated hollies, which are somewhat costly, every plant I have recommended may be obtained for a shilling or two ; and after the first outlay it would only require, at most, a very few shillings expended every two or three years to make good losses, or to take the place of any that grow too large for the purpose. Under this system all the plants must be treated carefully when removing them. They must be planted with care, aud removed to their winter- quarters not later than the middle of October. In the case of large beds there are two subjects, although not strictly hardy shrubs, yet are admissible with them. I allude to the varieties of variegated Periwinkle. An edging of the large-growing variety, called Vinca major elegantissima, has a striking effect when looked upon from the distance, especially if in a large bed. In closing those papers, I trust they have contributed to show that the garden may be so managed as to present a succession of attractions in all seasons, without a break or halt. As no lady would tolerate disorder and dirt in her household, so I have sup- posed that the " Lady's Garden " should be a garden always in the fullest sense of the word, and in that view of the case have shaped my agreeable labours, which are now at an end. 365 HOW TO UTILIZE A TOWN AKEA. BY W. D. PBIOB, ESQ. SHE propensity of mankind to move only in beaten tracks appears to be a normal characteristic of our race. There seems to exist a natural antipathy in the minds of most men to original thought, and to the exercise of those inventive faculties whereby conveniences may be increased, and pleasures extended. Thus the spirit of innovation is looked upon as a thing to be discountenanced and avoided ; till having reached the stage of established fact, no folly becomes too stupendous, no absurdity too glaring to be followed by the unrea- soning crowd. These propositions hold equally true of the most important as well as of the most trivial pursuits. Hence oppor- tunity is lost, invention is paralyzed, and a dreary inanity would prevail but for the enterprise of the independent few — the pioneers of progress, who, from time to time, by pertinacious adherence to their principles and opinions at length convert quondam opponents into admiring disciples. I was led into this train of thought a short time ago, by what many might consider a trivial illustration. In passing by a large house at the West-end, I perceived one of the areas converted into a complete, well-furnished fernery. The effect was as novel as it was charming and ingenious. The basement apartment was evidently in use as a sitting-room, from which the effect must have been that of looking into a conservatory, and that too of no mean extent. The plants had been recently syringed, and their cool freshness and vivid green, presented such a contrast to the scorching sun and heated pavement, as to form a complete oasis in the desert of hot bricks and mortar of the streets. Now here the genius of the innovator had evidently been at work — some enterprising soul, above the stereotyped box of mignonette, with the convolvulus in a flower-pet, or scarlet-runner trained round the window, had exemplified what might be done to extem- porize a scene of verdure and beauty, even in so ungenial a spot as a London area ; with what beneficial results upon the mind and morale it is impossible to estimate. Now why cannot such an example be extensively followed ? and "area gardening" be made to form an interesting feature in connection with town habitations. With a view to the assistance of such as may be inclined to attempt the experiment, it may not be out of place to enter a little more into detail of the objects used to carry out such an undertaking. A few large roots, some white flints and clinkers arranged against the walls, furnished the groundwork of the plan. These were filled with hardy ferns of different kinds and aspects, tastefully contrasted, some in pots, sunk in moss ; others planted in suitable hollows, filled with mould, in the roots and clinkers themselves. Colour was supplied by pots of geraniums, fuchsias, and similar easily-managed subjects, perfumed by red and 366 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. white stocks, and mignonette. Two or three cross bars, sustained hanging wire baskets filled with Nasturtiums, ivy-leaved Geranium, Tradescantia zebrina, Sedum Bieboldii, and such-like trailers. The House-leek, in its various tribes, and the Echeveria, were growing in the crevices of the stones. There are hosts of inexpensive and hardy plants of succulent character useful for such purposes, that will suggest themselves to the practical gardener, or that may be found in such publications as the " Garden Oracle," and more par- ticularly in the admirable " Fern Garden," recently issued ; indeed, the adventurer disposed to beautify what is usually a most unsightly spot, devoted to dust-bins, old brooms, and other abominations of the presiding deities of the lower regions, cannot do better than possess himself of the above-named works at once, as the bases for his operations. Nor is the scope of such a system of " area gardening" confined to the summer. By means of a few sashes placed across, which may be so arranged as not to interfere with the ventilation of the dwelling rooms, a complete conservatory could be constructed in which plants might be kept growing during the whole year ; some of which, such as tulips, hyacinths, and other hardy bulbs, might be regularly brought on as ornaments for the other apartments of the house. The means for heating such a structure could be easily managed from the kitchen boiler, or by the employment of gas ; the sashes would be made to lift up for giving air, of course. It will be apparent that a constant relief in the permanent furnishing may be kept up by a change of the plants in pots analogous to that employed in carrying out the "plunging systems" in the garden. Many nurserymen would contract to supply such a change by the dozen at a small expense, removing the plants from time to time as they passed out of bloom. Another very interesting modification of this method of utilizing a town area, to which it might be made a pleasing adjunct, also fell under my notice — it was that of a large aviary of sparrow-proof wire, in which were some twenty or thirty canaries and other song birds. In summer a miniature fountain threw up its tiny spray, and a little tree furnished resting and roosting accommodation for its feathered tenants, whose sprightliness and blithe notes exhibited a striking contrast to their unfortunate brethren shut up in a diminu- tive cage. It will, of course, be understood that these suggestions do not profess to be a complete treatise on a t-ubject which admits of such wide yet systematic treatment, according to individual tastes and circumstances. They will, however, be sufficient to set ideas working, and to ventilate the question preparatory to more expanded consideration on a future occasion. 367 GARDEN IVIES. ON THE CLASSIFICATION AND NOMENCLATURE OE THE SPECIES AND VARIETIES OE HEDERA. (Communicated to the Linnaean Society by Shirley Hibbeed.) i^ljURING the past fifteen years I have assiduously collected and cultivated the species and varieties of Hedera, and my collection comprises upwards of one hundred varieties (so-called), representing the three well-known types ; namely, H. helix, of Linnseus ; H. Canariensis, of Willdenow ; and H. colchica, of Koch. Observing that many varieties were known in gardens under a diversity of names, and that those names were in many cases unnecessarily complex, and in some cases obnoxious buth to sense and syntax, I determined on a complete revision of my own garden catalogue of ivies, and I now respectfully submit to the Linna?an Society a general summary of results : — First, as to the general principles of the classification now adopted. It is based on the three species named above, the characters of which are unmistakable. The subdivisions comprise groups of — 1, Scandent, or climbing ivies with green leaves ; 2, Scandent, or climbing ivies with variegated leaves ; 3, Arborescent, or fruiting ivies with green leaves ; 4, Arborescent, or fruiting varieties with variegated leaves. Under one or more of these four subdivisions may be placed every garden ivy known — a few which combine the property of climbing and the more free growth of the scandent forms, with the property of fruiting also, may claim a place in more than one group. I have, however, in every "such case, considered a variety known to bear fruit as arborescent, though as to habit of growth it may very closely approximate to the truly scandent forms. A very brief experience with ivies will convince the observer that every scandent form tends inevitably to the fruiting form, requiring only age and immunity from the pruning-knife to produce in due time abundance of berries. It is not, however, so generally well known that every fruiting form, however arborescent, is capable of reverting back to its corresponding scandent form — the mere opportunity for climbing, as for example proximity to an old brick wall and its roots having free range in a rich soil, tending to what may be properly termed its rejuvenescence. More than one variety in this collection appears to be in a permanently intermediate condition between the extreme cha- racters of the climbing and fruiting forms, producing shoots that are in some cases decidedly scandent, with large and distinctly lobed leaves, and other shoots of a more twiggy nature, with small entire leaves ; these twiggy shoots lending always to produce fruit, but never so much as perfecting a flower-bud. Secondly, as to the nomenclature. In adopting or inventing names for the most distinctive kinds in the collection, an endeavour has been made to harmonize the requiiements of the cultivator with the usages of the botanist. For garden purposes, one descriptive name, which can be easily remembered, or, at all events, easily associated with the plant it represents, is the great desideratum. Com- memorative names are simply useless as aids to identification, and geographical names are nearly useless when good ; and as they are generally bad, they are also generally objectionable. Hedera Canariensis may be cited as an example. It is the Canary-islands ivy of the botanist, the "Irish ivy " of the horticulturist, the African ivy of the traveller. The necessity of a revision of the nomenclature of the ivies mny be established by a glance at any garden list of them. Thus, for example, we find, even in the best catalogues, such names as Hedera helix arborescens baccifera lutea. Now, to say nothing about scientific proprieties, such names spread oVer a collection of a hundred or so varieties constitute a painful burlesque of botanical nomenclature. The plan I have adopted makes an end of all such difficulties ; it provides for every distinctive kind a descriptive name, which can be taken up into its proper connections by the botanist — if the botanist will adopt it — while for the use of the gardener it is valuable both as a key to the character of the plant, as well as a suggestion of its existence. To carry out this plan in its entirety, I have been compelled to assign to two out of the three species new specific designations, which I trust the botanist will allow, if only in aid of an experiment which has for its principal objects 368 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. simplicity and utility in the nomenclature of plants. Thus, " the Canary'' or ™ Irish" ivy is in this classification designated Hedera grandifolia ; and the Colchican ivy, more generally known as H. Regneriana, is named H. coriacea. Thirdly, as to the varieties. These, if estimated by their names, number con- siderably over two hundred. After a first general revision, and the obliteration of a number of most ridiculous synonymes, there remained about one hundred kinds. These were carefully classified and compared, the most distinctive being renamed, unless it happened that the names they already bore were deemed suitable. There remained no less than fifty varieties, sufficiently separated by their characters to justify the places assigned them in the classification. All others have been cancelled, and the collection comprises the selected fifty kinds only. Hedeka helix (Linnseus), the European ivy. The pedicels* and calyx are covered with white stellate hairs, with six to eight rays each. A. Scandent green-leaved forms of H. helix. — Helix major, the largest leaved British ivy ; Helix minor, the smallest leaved British ivy. These are the two commonest climbing ivies in all the northern parts of Europe. Heterophylla, a beautiful variety, intermediate between the scandent and the fruiting form, but has never yet flowered. It was raised from seed at Stoke Newington. Gracilis, a very slender form of H. helix. Tortuosa, a variety characterized by its twisted leaves. Lobata major, a robust variety, with leaves distinctly lobed. Rugosa, a robust variety with corrugated leaves. Lucida, commonly known as Hedera helix poetica, or the Poet's ivy; it is remarkably glossy, and the noblest variety in this section. Nigra, the leaves are nearly black. Contracta, variously known as " Sagittffifolia," " Taurica," etc., etc. Scutifolia, a small variety with shield- shaped leaves. Cinerea, known in gardens as " Himalaica ;" it has the most decidedly grey-tinted leaves of any in this section. Triloba, a small variety, almost uniformly three-lohed. Palmata, this is the " Hedera helix palmata" of gardens. Crenata, the " crenata" of gardens. Digitata, the " digitata" of gardens. Angnlaris, a peculiarly angular-leaved form, which is occasionally met with labelled " Taurica." Pedata, an exceedingly distinct form, known in gardens as " chrysocarpa ;" but as it is unquestionably a scandent form, the leaves of which will become less deeply lobed or absolutely entire when it attains a fruiting state, such a name is inadmissible — it belongs, in fact, to the fruiting form, and not to this peculiarly pedate kind. Minima has the smallest leaves of all ; in general configuration they resemble those of pedata, but the two plants are quite distinct, more especially in winter, when pedata has a deep green hue, and minima is of a brownish purple. B. Scandent variegated-leaved forms of H. helix. — Discolor, the " Hedera helix minor marmorata" of gardens. Sulphurea, a sulphur-tinted variety, known as "marginata canescens." Chrysophylla, a fine golden-hued ivy, which being popular has a multitude of garden names, the most common being " aurea densa minor," and " canariensis aurea marmorata." Chrysophylla palmata, a palmate leaf with yellow variegation. Marginata grandis, Marginata major, Marginata media, Marginata minor, Marginata rubra, a group of five distinct and beautiful varieties, the leaves of which are margined with creamy variegation. The last in the group acquires a deep red tint in winter. The names by which these five are severally described in garden catalogues are sufficient in number to serve for fifty varieties, and sufficiently ridiculous to be unfit for any. " Hedera helix minor marginata Cullisii," the garden name of the variety now designated "marginata rubra," affords an example of the necessity of a thorough revision of the names. Sub- marginata, the last in this section, is characterized by a line-like whitish margin. The five constituting the marginata group proper, have broad band-like margins. C. Arborescent green-leaved varieties of H. helix. — Baccifera nigra, the common fruiting form of H. helix. Baccifera nigra crenata, a wrinkled-leaved variety of the last. Baccifera lutea, the yellow- berried ivy. Baccifera alba, the white-fruited ivy. D. Arborescent variegated-leaved varieties of H. helix. — Argentea major, a remarkably fine variegated tree ivy. Argentea minor, similar to the last, but ■with smaller leaves. These are counterparts of the marginate varieties in section B, but as they cannot be placed in that section because of their arborescent character, they are not regarded as marginate, but as silver-leaved ivies, and thus their names separate them from the group to which, by their colours, they are THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 369 closely related. Sub-lutea, the counterpart in a climbing form of sulplmrea in section B. Aurea, a splendid variety, with rich golden variegation, counterpart in a climbing form of chrysopliylla in section B. Hedera grandifolia (Hibberd), the large-leaved African ivy. H. Canariensis, of Willdenow, H. Hibernica, of gardens. Tbe pedicels and calyx are covered with white stellate bairs, wbicli have from tbirteen to fifteen rays eacb. A. Scandent green-leaved forms of H. grandifolia. — Grand/folia, the common Irish ivy. Viridis, " Algeriensis" of gardens, the leaves light green with cuspid lobe3, or neaidy entire ; usually regarded as a species, but undoubtedly an Irish ivy, in a state intermediate between the true climbing and the true fruiting habit. B. Scandent variegated-leaved forms of H. grandifolia. — Variegata, a new, scarce, handsome variety, the glossy leaves richly margined with primrose yellow. Pallida, well known in gardens as the "golden-blotched" ivy. Maculata, a fine variety, the leaves of which are uniformly blotched and spotted witli yellowish grey variegation. Canescens, known in gardens as " Algeriensis foliis variegatis." C. Arborescent green-leaved forms of H. grandifolia. — Arborescens, the common fruiting form of the Irish ivy. Cordifolia, a variety with thick-textured cordate leaves. Cuspidata, a tree-like variety with cuspid lobes. D. Arborescent variegated-leaved forms of H. grandifolia. — Flava, a fine variety with rich yellow variegation. Striata, the leaves striped and blotched with yellowish creamy variegation. Hedera coriacea (Hibberd), the thick-leaved Asiatic'ivy. H. colchica, of Koch, H. Rcegneriana of gardens. The pedicels and calyx covered with two-lubed scales, the lobes divided into seven to ten segments. A. Scandent green-leaved forms of H. coriacea. — Coriacea, known in gardens as " Rcegneriana" and " Cordifolia." B. Scandent variegated-leaved forms ot H. coriacea. — Hitherto I have not met with a variegated form of the thick-leaved ivy, nor has a single variegated leaf occurred amongst a number of plants submitted to every variety of treatment. C. Arborescent green-leaved forms of H. coriacea. — Dendroides, this name is adopted to distinguish it from the arborescent form of H. grandifolia. It is a remarkable ivy, resembling in growth a rhododendron or an evergreen cerasus more than any ivy of the prevailing type. D. Arborescent variegated-leaved forms of H. coriacea. None. DECEMBER. The bleak wind whistles through the ghostly trees, The varied leaves lie scatteied on the ground, No more bright flowers yield fragrance to the breeze, Nor birds along the silvery lakes abound : But all have fled at winter's dread command, Leaving our isle inanimate and drear, To spend their winter in some fairer land, Where cold and piercing winds they may not fear. Pale are the rays that through the lattice shine, But their faint warmth is welcome to the poor, And tint the coral-berried shrubs that twine In rustic beauty round the cottage dcor. Alone the redbreast, on the leafless spray, Trills his wild warble in the wasteful cold, "While in the reddening west declining day Shrinks from a world where Time is growing old. No more the hills their floral beauties yield, The autumn crocus from the mead has passed, Nature lies dormant both in wood and field, And snow-flakes drift before the northern blast. Sad is King Winter when he comes to lay His fatal touch upon this fragile earth, To breathe the chilly words of death, and say — Depart ! till spring again shall bring you into birth. R. T. E. VOL. IT. — NO. XII. 24 370 THE GAEDEN GUIDE. Bab.— 29-99. Ther.— 45, 36, 40. } ©eccmucr. Wind.— S.S.E., S.W. Rain. — 15 in. Greenhouse Flowers. — Acacia platyptera ; Camellias, Correa cardinalis, C, delicata; Epacris carminata, E. Lady Alice Peel, E. Lord Palmerston, E. pictu- rata ; Erica colorans, E. hybrida, E. hy emails ; Primula sinensis, in var., So- lanum eapsiscastrum, and Wetherhill's hybrids. Garden Fiowers. — Aconitum autum- nalis, Chrysanthemum tripartitum. Cam- panula colorata, Bupthalmum salicifoHum, Eupatorium truncatum, Galium capillipes, Selleborus fa'tidus, Tussilago fragrant ; Violets in variety. The Weather. — The weather of December is usually very changeable, with much dampness when the wind is S. W. ; frosts of short duration, and not frequent. Flower Garden. — All ground work should be pushed on as fast as circum- stances will permit, to enable it to get thoroughly settled before spring. This is a very good time to form fresh lawns, and lay down turf. Work of this kind is frequently left until spring, and generally entails an immense amount of labour in watering, to keep the grass alive ; whereas, if laid down at this season of the year, it would be thoroughly established before the weather is hot enough to affect it. Deciduous trees and shrubs may be planted during the early part of the month with reasonable chance of success, but unless the planting can be finished quickly, it will be well to leave it until the spring. All unoccupied beds and borders should be dug up, and the surface left rough, to enable the weather to act upon it. Now that the trees have all shed their leaves, clear the shrubbery borders, to prevent their being blown about with every gust of wind, and littering the walks and grass- plots. Protect tea and other tender roses with dry litter or fern ; but where they are growing in a prominent position, this system of protection will be objectionable, and, instead of adopting it, take the plants up carefully, and lay them in by their heels in a sheltered corner, and cover with litter or fern. These can be planted again early in March, and will, if handled carefully, scarcely feel the shift. Greenhouse. — Many amateurs lose large numbers of plants, simply because they crowd the house as full as it will hold, and then waLer in the same careless manner as in summer, and fancy, because the weather happens to be cold, that the ventilators must be kept close. To keep the usual stock of greenhouse plants in health during the winter, maintain a comparatively dry atmosphere, which must be regularly changed by opening the ventilators on all favourable opportunities ; and if there is any danger of the temperature falling too low, apply a little fire-heat during the time the ventilators are open. To economize fuel, as well as for the sake of the health of the plants, cover the glass with thick canvas, mats, or frigi- domo, during very sharp frosts, to prevent the escape of the heat. Water early, and choose a clear, bright day for that purpose. It will be better to let the plants Bplbous Flowers. — Amaryllis for- mossissima, A. vittata ; Broaiaa grandi- foora; Tropwolum tuberosum; Oxalis lobata ; U. marginata, Phadranassa chloracra ; Crocuses, Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissi. Stove Flowers. — Begonia Saunder- liana, B. hybrida multiflora ; Bouvardia Hogarth, B. lont/ijlora, Ventradenia rosea, JSpipliyllwm truncatum, in var. ; Setero- centrum roseum, Justicia speciosa, Moqeria gratissima, Limatodes rosea, * Barkeria elegans* Vendrobium moniliforme* Zygo- petalum crinitum candtum*. "Come and see the works of God : He is terrible in his doing toward tbe children of men. He turned the sea into dryland: they went through the flood on foot : there did we rejoice in Him. He ruleth by his power for ever ; his eyes behold the nations; let not the rebellious exilt themselves."— Psa. lxvi. 5—7. THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 371 be dry for a day or two than water them in damp weather. At the same time, the soil in which heaths and other plants of like character are potted must not be allowed to get dust dry. Cyclamens, and single and double primulas, now coming into flower, must have the warmest corner the house affords. Look sharp after green-fly, and fumigate immediately it makes its appearance. Eemove every decayed leaf, and keep everything as clean and sweet as circumstances will permit. Stove. — The temperature advised for last montb will be suitable for this. Nothing must be done to excite any of the occupants unnecessarily, just now, or the summer growth will be poor and weak in consequence. Attend carefully to Ferns, especially the delicate kinds, like the Gymnogrammas, Nothochlamas, and Cheilanthes, the fronds of which soon decay, if wetted frequently, or exposed to a damp atmosphere. All kinds should be kept as quiet as possible. Sometimes the close-growing Selaginellas will rot at this season, and the best way to stop its progress is to clear away the decayed portion, and then sprinkle the plants with dry sand, and place them in a dry position near the glass for a short time. The necessary precautions must, however, be taken to prevent the tender growth flagging. Kitchen Gaiidex. — Draw a little earth to the Beans and Peas now peeping through the ground, and keep a sharp look-out for mice, which are very busy just now, and trap them directly they make an appearance. In very sharp weather, cover Celery with long litter, for it soon rots in the centre after it has been frozen. Take up a supply of Jerusalem Artichokes and Parsnips for imme- diate use, and place in the root-house, and cover with dry sand or soil ; but the principal bulk should remain in the ground for the present, as they are firmer, and eat more mellow than when taken up at the beginning of the winter, and stored in the root-house. Frosty mornings must be taken advantage of for getting manure on vacant quarters ; and when the weather is unfavourable for out-door work, overhaul the root-stores, and remove all that exhibit the least signs of decay from contact witli that which is sound. Fkuit Garden. — Pruning of all fruit-trees, excepting the Peach and Nectarine, must be commenced in earnest. Lay in no more wood than is really required, for nothing is gained by over-crowding, but much lost. Give Apple-trees infested -with American blight a thorough washing with strong brine, but avoid damaging either fruit- buds or wood-buds. See that trees planted last month are properly staked, and cover the soil immediately over the roots with six inches of half-rotten stable manure, to prevent the frost loosening it. Pits and Frames. — Violets must be protected in cold and frosty weather, but draw the lights off entirely whenever the weather will admit of its being done with advantage. Auriculas, Carnations, Pansies, Pinks, and Picotees, must have a free circulation of air about them at all times, excepting when the weather is very damp or frosty. A few degrees of frost will not do so much injury as a stagnant atmosphere. The early-potted Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs must be uncovered at once, and exposed to the light. .Remove successive batches to the forcing-pit, the temperature of which should now average GO3. Syringe flowering shrubs overhead slightly once a day, to enable tiie buds to push strong. Fokcing. — See directions for last month. Bhubarb, Seakale, and Asparagus may now be lifted, and introduced into heat; the first must be taken up without the roots being broken about, and with as much soil adhering to them as possible. The roots can be placed in any out-of-the-way corner of the stove or forcing-house. Seakale must be forced in the dark, but Asparagus should be forced in a frame, close to the glass, and receive abundance of air to develop the flavour. Sow French Beans in small pots, and shift into larger ones as soon as they are well rooted. Place near the glass to keep them dwarf and stocky. 372 HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS. ]XHIBITIONS OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS. -The chrysanthemum season of 1869 has been quite up to the average of former years. The exhibitions have been unusually good, and also well-attended by the general public. The exhibitions of this noble autumnal flower in the nurseries of Me. Salter, Hammersmith, and Mr. Forsyth, Stoke Newington, have been unusually good. The twenty-sixth annual exhibition of the Stoke Xewing- ton Societt has been a decided success. The specimen plants were presented in fine condition, the principal prizes falling to the lot of Mr. Forsyth. But, perhaps, the most important feature of the exhibition was the cut blooms. These were contributed in large numbers, the chief bulk being of splendid quality, especially those in the large stands from Mr. Eowe, and Mr. Berry, of Boehampton, who succeeded in carrying off the lion's share of the prizes. The Bristol and West of England Chrysan- themum Society held an attractive exhibition on the 10th, at which miscellaneous flowering, and ornamental-leaved plants, were directly encouraged by the offer of liberal prizes. Fruit was also contributed largely ; indeed, it was one of the most prominent features of the show, there being upwards of 250 dishes put up for com- petition, in addition to others exhibited gratuitously. Fuchsias were fine, but per- haps the most striking feature was the splendid collections of Zonal Pelargoniums, the vivid hues of which contrasted well with the half-tints and more sombre colours of the chrysanthemums. The exhibition of the South Essex Society was grand ; but scarcely so attractive to the general public as that held at Bristol, it being con- fined exclusively to the chrysanthemum, and, therefore, lacked variety. The specimens of the large-flowering varieties were really magnificent, some of the plants being more than six feet in diameter, and solid with bloom. Like the Bristol Society, the Brixtov Hill Society offer liberal prizes for fine foliage plants, Primulas, and fruit. Splendid collections of the former were staged, and being judiciously intermixed with the chrysanthemums, produced an effect totally im- possible with the latter alone. The special feature of this exhibition was, however, the splendid specimen pompones. The specimen large-flowering kinds, cut flowers, and miscellaneous subjects, were also such as to satisfy the most exigent critic. A good exhibition was held at Liverpool on the 23rd and 21th nit., and was in every respect equal to those held near the metropolis. The shows of the North Western, East London, and South London amateur societies have been quite up to the average of former years. The best flowers at the several exhibitions were the following : — Large flowering varieties for specimen culture : Annie Salter, Alma, Dr. Sharpe, Princess of Wales, Prince of Wales, Christine, White Christine, Lady Harding, Mrs. G. Bundle, Alma, Beverley, Little Harry, Beaute du Nord, Cloth of Gold, Venus, Golden Trilby, Lady Slade, and Jardin des Plantes. For specimen pompones : Bob, Lilac, Brown, Golden, and White Cedo Nulli, Andromeda, Golden Aurora, one of the very best yellow-flowered pompones in cultivation ; Salamon, St. Thais, Surprise, and General Canrobert. Large flowering varieties for cut blooms, incurved : Mrs. G. Bundle, Dr. Brock, Prince of Wales, Empress Eugenie, Jardin des Plantes, Princess Beatrice, Antont-lli, Lady Harding, White Globe, John Salter, Lady Talfourd, Golden Dr. Brock, Lady Slade, Gloria" Mundi, Nil Desperandum, Novelty, Marechal Duroc, Venus, Prince Alfred, Princess of Wales, Plutus, Empress of India, Cherub, Bev. J. Dix, Mr. Brunlees, Golden Beverley. Queen of England, General Bainbrigge, Aurea Multiflora, Le Grand, and Belladonna. Large anemone floivers : Prince of Anemones, Empress, George Sands, Mrs. Pethers, Fleur de Marie, Queen Margaret, Gluck, Louis Bonamy, Marguerite d'Anjou, and Margaret of Normandy. Ane?none-ftowered pompones : Mr. Astie, Marie Stuart, Rose Marguerite, Jean Hachett, Regulus, Mrs. Wynes, Antonius, Miss Nightingale, Sidonie, and Firefly. Victoria regia. — An experiment has recently been made in the gardens of the Royal Botanic Society, Regent's Park, to test the buoyant power of the leaves of this wonderful lily, and it was found that each leaf would support upwards of 4001b., thus proving that a plant with eight leaves will support the enormous weight of one ton and a half. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 373 Royal Horticultural" Society's Rare Plant Medal. — We understand that the Council of the lioyal Horticultural Sjciety have resolved on issuing a hronze medal, to be called the " Rare Plant Medal," to be awarded at any of the Society's meetings for the first exhibition in this country of plants of great botanical interest. Prize Essay on Floral Criticism. — Lieut.-Col. Scott, Secretary of the Royal Horticultural Society, has offered five pounds for the best essay on the principles of Floral Criticism. Decomposition of Carbonic Acid by the Leaves of Plants under the influence of light is the subject of a note recently addressed to the French Academy of Sciences by M. Deherain, in which ho observes that whilst M. Prilleux has attributed the same decomposing faculty to all luminous rays of equal intensity, he finds that more oxygen was disengaged from plants lighted by yellow and red rays than by those which were exposed to blue or green ; and also that evaporation is more active in plants exposed to yellow and red lights than in those exposed to green and blue. Dahlia Imperials. — This noble autumnal flowering plant, has flowered grandly at Mr. Salter's, Hammersmith, and in the Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens, Chiswick, it being in both cases grown in a cool house. That at Chiswick attained a height of twelve feet ; but Mr. Salter succeeded in dwarfing his plant by grafting it on the tuber of one of the liliputian varieties. Testimonial to Mr. Barnes, late of Bicton.— The retirement of Mr. James Barnes, for nearly thirty years director and manager of the Bicton Gardens, Arboretum, Home Farm, etc., and the eminent services he has rendered to practical gardening and horticulture for a period of fifty years, induced some friends to co- operate with a view of marking their sense of his services by some visible token of their warm appreciation and esteem. A testimonial, consisting of a very handsome silver tea-service, was presented to him recently at the Bude Haven Hotel, Exeter. Memorial to the late Mr. James Veitch. — A large and influential meeting of horticulturalists was held in the council-room of the Royal Horticultural Society, at South Kensington, October 27, to consider the desirability of perpetuating the memory of the late Mr. Veitch, by means of a fitting memorial. A committee was formed, and subscriptions will be received forthwith, to be expended in a manner to be decided upon hereafter. Considering the high esteem in which the memory of the deceased gentleman is held by horticulturalists of all grades, we have no doubt but sufficient support will be forthcoming to carry out the arrangements in a manner worthy of his distinguished reputation. A Winter Garden for Edinburgh will shortly be commenced by the well- known firm of Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing, Forest Hill, London, and Edin- burgh. The site of the present garden is a portion of the West Coates Nursery- grounds, and according to the plans a very handsome structure of a composite order will be laid down in front of the present grounds facing the Glasgow Koad. The facade extends to 130 feet, the height of the building will be 26 feet, and thebreadth 30 feet. From the centre of the main building, running backwards, will be another house, similar in outline to the above, extending to about 50 feet in length, and 28 feet in breadth, which will be used as a fernery. It will be commenced imme- diately, and the work is expected to be completed by Whitsuntide. NEW BOOKS. Flora of Middlesex : a Topographical and Historical Account of the Plants found in the County. By H. Trimen, M.B., and W. T. T. Dyer, B.A. (Hard- wicke, 192, Piccadilly). — A carefully prepared work, extending to upwards of 400 pages, with a physical map of the county, and an admirable introduction on the geology, climate, and other conditions which determine the characteristics of a flora. The authors are the very men for such a task, Mr. Trimen being engaged in the Botanical Department of the British Museum, and Lecturer on Botany at St. Mary's Hospital, and Mr. Dyer is Professor of Natural History at the Royal Agri- 374 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. cultural College, Cirencester. Every Loudon botanist will find it a great aid, both for its ample information of the localities of plants, and also for reference in arranging the herbarium. Beautiful-Leaved Plants. By Shirley Hibberd. (Bell and Daldy). — The completion of this work at this season renders it available for a Christmas or New Year's gift. It contains coloured figures of about sixty beautiful-leaved plants, with accompanying descriptions and notes on cultivation. It may appear an expensive book, for twenty-five shillings is a large price for an octavo volume in these cheap times. But it is impossible to produce such plates as these, except at a large outlay, and judges of books will perhaps consider that the quality of the plates and letter- press fully justifies the price, and any lower quality would have been derogatory to the subject. As to the editor's work we, of course, say nothing, but we hope it will be found worthy of the accompanying labours of artist and printer, who have unquestionably done their duty. Groombridge's Science Manuals. — Messrs. Groombridge and Sons have undertaken a noble service in behalf of technical education by the publication of this new series of elementary text-books. Three of the series are now before us ; namely, "An Introduction to Scientific Chemistry," by F. S. Barff, M.A ; "An Introduction to the Science of Heat," by T. A. Orme ; and " An Elementary Course of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics," by R. Wormeli, M.A. —These books are exactly what they profess to be ; full enough to establish an earnest student in the principles of the science treated of, and to fit candidates for university examination, and by their systematic arrangement, andembodiment of the latest results of research, serve for all ordinary purposes of reference, or to throw accurate light upon any subject coming properly within their range. They are small, neat volumes, beautifully printed, and remarkably cheap. It may be proper to add, though the names of the authors are sufficient, that the best men for the several subjects have been selected, and their work is worthy of their reputations. The Garden Oracle for 1870 contains some new features. The almanac pages are occupied with lists of dessert fruits in the order of their ripening, showing the best varieties for large and small collections, and for succession throughout the year. The greatest care has been takea to render the selections of plants, flowers, vegetables, etc., for the ensuing year as perfect as consultations with about fifty practical florists, and a careful review of the results of exhibitions can render them. A few curious pictures of vegetable monstrosities afford an entertaining feature, which, we hope, will render this issue of the Oracle particularly acceptable to the horticultural public. Practical Treatise on the Grape Vine. By William Thomson. Sixth edition. (Blackwood and Sons.) — We have so frequently recommended this work as the best upon the subject of which it treats, that nothing remains now but to announce the issue of a sixth edition. Such additions have been made as were necessary to include the latest possible information connected with grape-growing. It also includes an extra chapter on vine roots, a series of notes on the most cele- brated vines known, and a description of the earliest vinery on record. The following extract from the chapter on the most celebrated vines will be of great interest to a large body of our readers : — "Notes on Celebrated Vines. — I am indebted to my friend, Mr. Rose, gardener to her Majesty the Queen at the Royal Gardens, Frogmore, for the following information about two famous vines — the one at Hampton Court, the other at Cumberland Lodge. Of the former, Mr. Rose writes: ' As far as I can learn, the vine at Hampton Court was planted in a small house in the year 1768, and the house has been enlarged from time to time till it has attained its present size. The stem of this vine at the surface of the soil is two feet ten inches in circumference. At three feet from the surface, where it branches into three principal stems, it is three feet in circumference. These three leading stems run along the whole length of the house, branching off right and left, and covering with foliage an area of 1950 feet, yielding from 600 lb. to 800 lb. of grapes annually, which are ripened in the autumn. The vine is a black Hamburg, and the system of pruning is the close- spur one. " 'That at Cumberland Lodge was planted about seventy years ago in a small pit, by a foreman of the name of Tidy, who managed the place at that date. The THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE 375 vine, which is also a hlack Hamburg, made such rapid progress, that a house was erected over it, which lias been repeatedly enlarged to its present size — the iast addition having been made some fifteen years ago. At the surface of the soil this vine is three feet in circumference ; at two feet from the soil it is two feet ten inches ; here it branches into two main stems, which at four feet branches each into two rods, and run the whole length of the house, branching in all directions covering an area of 2553 feet, and producing from 600 lb. to 1200 lb. weight of good grapes annually, ripened late in autumn. It is pruned on the close-spur system. The border is 60 feet wide, and is not cropped. The house is 138 feet long, and, like that at Hampton Court, is heated by flues ; but little fire-heat is applied, as the vines are not forced.' " In a letter I recently received from Mr. John "Watson, gardener to Sir Robert Peel, Bart., at his seat, the Campagna Lammemun, near Geneva, he refers to three very large old vines in his neighbourhood. He writes : ' I have ascertained from family documents that they were fine large vines a hundred years ago. The diameters of their steins near the ground is an average of one foot six inches, equal to a girth of four fret six inches. The finest of them grows on the slope of Mount Salne ; the other two on the flat plain that at one time probably formed part of the Lake of Geneva. The soil they are growing in is pan chalk, which, when duo- up in autumn, looks more like a turnpike road than a vine-border ; yet these vines are in great vigour, and last autumn, owing to the hot summer, yielded more wine, and of higher quality, than usual. The Lake of Geneva is forty miles long ; on both sides it is planted with vines ; and during the autumn hundreds of invalids come from all parts of the world to undergo what is termed the "grape cure" here. They begin by eating h lb. of grapes a day, and increase the quantity till it reaches 13 lb., when they as gradually diminish it. By this means, I have known many remarkable cures effected, even of cancer, which had baffled the best medical skill.'" TO CORRESPONDENTS. The Crown of Thorns. — Lady B. — The question proposed — From what plant was the Saviour's crown of thorns derived? is of far less interest to us than it appears to be to others, and for this reason, that it cannot matter at all to the moral of the narrative, or the spiritual purport and lesson of the crucifixion, what par- ticular plant was employed. There is, we think, too much minute textual exegesis to the injury of philosophical criticism, and the devotional application of religious truths. However, the question is appropriate to the season and to our labours. In Syria and the fertile parts of Arabia thorny trees and shrubs abound. The Psalmist compares the laughter of fools to the crackling of thorns under a pot, which indi- cates that " thorns" of some sort were commonly used as fuel in Palestine. We read again of thorns and briers as emblems of desolation. These and other refe- rences point to the wild scrubby vegetation of uncultivated lands, of which in the East thorny and prickly forms of vegetation constitute the major part. The Hebrew language has about twenty words to represent different (or the same) thorny or prickly shrub?, the various meanings of which are more likely to be discovered by the traveller than the philologist. The abundance of thorny vege- tation in Palestine increases the difficulty of the question before us, because of the wide choice the soldiers probably had wnen they determined to form a mock crown for the King of the Jews. The Greek text, however, and the necessities of the case contract the inquiry almost to a point, leaving us to choose finally between two common shrubs of Palestine, one of which there can be but little doubt was selected for this purpose. That there is nothing new in our selection of these will be evident by their names. Paliurus aculeatus, the "Christ's thorn" of gardens, has long enjoyed the reputation of immediate relationship to the history of the crucifixion. On the other hand, Zizyphns spina Christi, the "Christ's thorn lotus," has at least an equal, if not a superior claim. Both are common and conspicuous shrubs of the Bible lands. They both belong to the same order, being rhamnacenus plants, both are spiny, and from the branches of either a crown might be quickly constructed. The second of these two plants appears entitled to the distinction of having pierced the Saviour's brows. Its young sprays are long and flexile, and its leaves are of a 376 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. dark green colour, which would commend it to the soldiers as a near imitation of the ivy chaplet bestowed on victors in their games nnd battles. The Paliurus does not nearly so well fulfil the same conditions. In Smith's "Dictionary of the Bible," article " Thorns and Thistles," it is stated that Zizyphus spina Chrisii is the nebk of the Arabs, which grows abundantly in Syria and Palestine, both in wet and dry places ; Dr. Hooker noticed a specimen nearly forty feet high, spreading as widely as a good Qjuercus ilex in England. Tiie nebk fringes the banks of the Jordan, and flou- rishes on the marshy banks of the lake of Tiberias : it forms either a shrub or a tree ; and, indeed, is quite common over the country. It is a matter of some importance, we think, in such inquiries as these to take broad views, if possible. Now it is extremely likely that the Roman soldiers were less anxious to inflict suffering than to imply disgrace or give mocking expression to their opinion that Jesus was a fanatic. If so, they would be likely to seize upon the plant which most readily supplied an imitation of the heroic garland, for such undoubtedly the crown ot thorns was — the Jews would have been cruel, and have given preference to the plant for its cruel thorns. But then the Jews would not have crowned Jesus at all ; they had no such custom. On the other hand, the Romans despised the Jews, and were as ignorant as they were careless of the peculiarities of Jewish ideas and traditions. Hence in hurrying the Divine victim to the scaffold, they would find little to amuse them in his sufferings, but probably much to gratify their depraved natures in the additional humiliation of a mocking crown. This consideration adds to the probability that Zizyphus spina Chrisii and not Paliurus aculeatus, was the plant employed in the bitter prelude to the crucifixion. Staking Trees, etc. — Novice. — The mode in which newly-planted trees are supported is radically bad. A stout stake is thrust straight down beside the stem of the tree into the very midst of its roots. The first step in the process, therefore, usually results in injury to the roots in their mcst vulnerable part, namely, at their point of junction with the stem. The next mischief is the result of the decay of the stake. It becomes a nest for fungi, the white underground threads of which spread over the decaying stake, and then pass to the living roots of the tree, which is seriously injured by the contact, and may actually die in consequence. The mode of staking we have followed for many years past is unattended with either of these evils, and affords a far better support than a stake standing upright next the stem. We drive a stout stake in a slanting position, and, as it were, leaning against the tree, and then bind the stem to the top of it with a bit of hayband to prevent chafing. If this plan is carried out fairly, every tree so staked is as firmly fixed as an oak-tree fifty years old ; no storm can move it. If the tree has an extra large head, two, three, or more such stakes may be employed, set out round the tree like " struts," and all braced together where their tops cross each other and the stem. As for iron stakes, we have used them for twenty years, and never knew them to do the shadow of harm to anything. They are invaluable for staking standard roses. Fern Fronds turning Beown. — Old Subscriber. — Very probably the plants are potted in unsuitable soil, or the drainage of the pots is out of order, and the soil water-logged in consequence. Either of these evils would cause the fronds to turn brown. It is, however, impossible to suggest a remedy without further information. Tkeatment of Geraniums taken up out of the Beds. — Old Subscriber. — Remove the whole of the flowers, and also the dead »nd decaying leaves, but avoid breaking or cutting the shoots, as the wounded part is liable to decay at this season of the year. The soil must not be kept dust dry, but after being watered, it should be allowed to get dry before being watered again. The plants should be placed in a light position, where the air can have full access to them. Transplanting Roses. — J. Sheldon, Derby.— Replant your old stock if the trees are in a healthy condition. Lift the plants carefully, and prune the very longest roots slightly. The finest blooms for exhibition are obtained from young plant?, therefore we should advise you to add a few trees that were budded last year — two- feet standards are preferable if on the brier, and of course dwarf bushes if worked on the manetti, or on their own roots. You will do well to consult the "Rote Book " (Groombridge and Sons, price 5s.). F. BENTLET AND CO., PBINTEBS, SHOE LANE, LONDON. 3 5185 00292 4726 J^m. N.MANCHESTER. ^%0* INDIANA