1! Ta,
Vee
Tey. pean

THE

FLORAL WORLD

AnD

GARDEN GUIDE.

Blustrated swith Golowrey Plates and Blood GEngravings.

EDITED

BY

| SHIRLEY HIBBERD, ESQ., FRELS.

LONDON:
GROOMBRIDGE AND SONS,
5, PATERNOSTER ROW.

Lonpor:
Parytrp EY Smoxoxs & Borren,.
hoe Lane, E.C,

————

THE FLORAL

AND

GARDEN GUIDE.

GLOBULAR CACTI.
(With Coloured Illustration of Echinopsis Pentlandi.)

BY GEORGE GORDON.

=ssHi beautiful Hchinopsis Pentlandi represents a class of
succulent plants well adapted to the requirements of
amateurs who have very little convenience for plant-
growing. Some few of the species of the several genera
_—————— thrive remarkably well in a sunny window, whilst all
which do not positively require the temperature of the plant-stove
may be grown in a sunny greenhouse, and a rather large collection
may be kept in a very small structure. They are exceedingly well
adapted to the requirements of amateurs resident in suburban dis-
tricts, and who have one of the miniature glass houses which are
dignified by the builders with the title of conservatcries. When
these houses have a south aspect, it is better by far to furnish them
with plants of the character of the one here figured, and kindred
subjects, than with soft-wooded plants like geraniums, fuchsias, and
petunias, which require constant attention to keep them in health,
and free from red spider, green-fly, and other insect pests, which are
not slow in establishing themselves upon plants in an unhealthy
state, whether brought on by neglect or mismanagement. The
globular cacti, and other succulents suitable for associating with
them, will not remain long in a healthy condition, if subjected to
mismanagement or neglect, but they do not suffer in anything like
the same manner as the soft-wooded plants if the amateur forgets to
water them when necessary, or to ventilate the house on a bright
day. Frequent repetitions of neglect would, of course, tell upon
them, but forgetting to open the ventilators once in the course of the
summer would not result in roasting them up, as would be the case
were the house filled with soft-wooded things.

To cultivate a collection is easy enough, provided the practices
which prevail in many gardens of potting them in a mixture
consisting almost exclusively of brick rubbish, and other starving
stuff, and keeping them dust dry at the roots during the winter, are
not adopted. Although they inhabit the driest parts of the tropics,
and are found in a thriving state in the most sterile soils, they

January. u

2 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

succeed when under cultivation more satisfactorily if potted in a
generous compost. It is, no doubt, wise to follow nature to a
certain extent, but in the case of the cacti it must not be forgotten
that they are at times deluged by the heavy raius, and that they
have a chance of seuding their roots down to a considerable depth
below the surface ; and, in all probability, do not suffer so severely
from drought as in a small pot. Whether this is the case or not, it
matters but little to us, for it concerns the cultivator more to know
that they succeed best im a generous ‘compost, and with rather
liberal supplies of water, even during the winter season. One of
the principal points in their culture is to place them in a dry airy
house, quite free from drip, and in a sunny situation. They should
also be placed near the glass, for when deprived of the full share of
light, by reason of their oceupying a position a considerable distance
from the glass, or being overshadowed by tall-growing subjects,
their condition will not be quite satisfactory. They cannot be
exposed to too much light or sunshine, and their culture should not
be attempted in houses having a thick canopy of foliage formed by »
climbing plants covering the roof.

To keep them in health, they require repotting annually, and
this should be done towards the end of March or beginning of
April, as they then have the summer season before them in which to
make their growth. The best results are obtained-by turning them
out of their pots, carefuliy removing the greater portion of the old
soil, and then repotting them in a fresh compost. A mixture of
equal parts fibrous peat and turfy loam, and a liberal sprinkling of
sand, forms a most excellent compost. The pots must be well
drained, the new soil worked micely amongst the roots, and the base
of the plunt be nearly on a level with the rim of the pot. Those
who are unaccustomed to handle them should not reduce the old ball
of soil to more than one half, because of the risk of mjury to the
roots when all the soil has been removed. When the repotting
is completed, remove them to a pit facing the south, in which a
mild hotbed has been made up. In this they will, provided they
are kept rather close, and supplied moderately with water, push
out new roots, and commence to grow away freely. They may
remain in the frame for a period of two or three months, as may
be the most convenient to the cultivator, but the longer period
is the most preferable, as affording them a better opportunity for
becoming thoroughly established, and completing the season’s
growth. Those who have been accustomed to the starving system
will be quite surprised at their rapid progress and healthy appear-
ance, when grown as here directed. Those who have not the con-
venience of a frame may insure very good results by placing them in
the greenhouse immediately they are potted, and keeping them close
and warm until they have begun to make new roots. There will be
no difficulty in affording them sufficient warmth, as the sun will be
fast acquiring power at the period advised for potting, and by keeping
the house rather close, it will be possible to utilize the sun-heat to
the fullest extent possible.

With reference to watering the globular cacti, it must be said

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, 3

that they require liberal supplies from the time they are nicely
established after the annual shift, until the end of August, when
more moderate supplies will be found the most conducive to health.
Indeed, from the early part of September until after they are repotted,
it will suffice to keep the soil in a moderately moist state. It will,
however, be well to state that whenever a fresh application of water
is required, sufficient should be applied to thoroughly moisten the
soil.

The globular and other cacti are grown by very few nurserymen,
and there will most probably be some difficulty im purchasmg any
desired kind. Several of the most popular and free-growing species
are to be met with at the dealers in Covent Garden, who are mostly
supplied by M. Pfersdorf, of South Row, Kensal New Town, who
is undoubtedly the largest trade grower in this country. There is
a splendid collection in the botanic gardens at Kew, which readers
snterested in this class of plants should, if they have the oppor-
tunity, leisurely inspect before purchasing.

The undermentioned species comprise some of the best in cul-
tivation :—LEchinopsis formosa, E. Schelhasi, E. Forbesi, H. EHyriesi,
E. Pentlandi, E. Bridgesi, E. ornatus, E. texana, BE. pectiniferus,
E. Zuccariniana, FH. Decaisneana, E. Linki, Echinocactus electra-
canthus, E. Pfeifferi, HE. Staines, E. platycerus, EH. Echidne, Ei.
tetraxiphus, E. heleophorus, E. ingens, E. Pfersdorfi, EB. hystriacan-
thus, H. cornigerus, E'. Scopa, Mammillaria minima, M. phymatothele,
M. bicolor, M. acanthophlegma, M. stella aurata, ML. clava, M. cru-
cigera, M. rhodantha, M. Parkinsoni, IL. Scheidiana, I. spinosissima,
M. Wildiana, M. longimamma, Melocactus Grengeli, M. macranthus,
DM. polyanthus, M. pyramidalis, and IL. Sellowi.

PROPAGATION OF ROSE-TREES BY ROOT-CUTTINGS.

=@ HE following method is recommended in the Bulletin of
H 6the Horticultural Society of Montdidier :—

Some time in December take up your free-footed
rose-trees, or, without taking up, lay bare the roots of
the most vigorous subjects amongst them, so as to take
off a few of the larger roots. These pieces of root, divided imto
segments each two inches long, should be set in pots, in peat-earth,
somewhat moist, but not damp.

Placed in a temperate-house or under a glass frame, the roots will
keep sound, and most of them will put out small whitish rootlets.
In spring, the root-euttings already furnished with fibres should be
set, singly or several together, in 7 or 8 Cent. (2 or 3-inch) pots,
and close to the surface of the soil.

Bottom-heat of 12° or 15° Cent. (54° to 59° Bahr.) will
greatly assist them in striking and throwing up one or more shoots
from their upper surfaces.

Free-footed or own-root rose-trees may thus be raised from root-
cuttings. ‘This method was discovered by chance not long since: it
might have been adopted long ago.

January.

4 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

THE AMATEUR’S VINERY.—No. I.

BY THOMAS TRUSSLER,

Nurseryman, etc., Edmonton, N.

=eyARAPE-CULTURE has now become so general in the

| gardens of amateurs, that a few practical remarks,
adapted especially to the requirements of this class of
cultivators, will perhaps be useful in putting them on
their guard against practices which lead to failures. To
build and plant a vinery is easy enough, when you know the way, so
also is the pruning and general management of the vines, but if the
intending cultivator is unacquainted with the proper steps to take,
it is just possible that he will take the wrong ones, and in the end
experience a failure more or less complete. I am not unmindful of
what has been already done by Mr. W. Cole, and other first-class
grape-growers, in extending a knowledge of grape-growing through
the pages of the Froran Worwp, and upon this occasion I shall
confine my remarks to those matters with which the amateur should
be thoroughly acquainted. I shall be as brief as possible, and hope
in the course of my observations to show that good crops of grapes
may be had with a very small amount of labour and skill. We will
first speak of the

CONSTRUCTION OF THE VINERY.

The form of the vinery is not of so much importance as some
grape-growers would have us believe. But it must be erected in a
position that will admit of the vines enjoying a maximum amount
of light, for if the sun can only shine upon the roof for an hour or
so in the middle of the day, it will be useless to expect good crops.
The lean-to form, as represented by diagrams Figs. 1 and 2, is un-
doubtedly the most simple. It is the most useful for the earliest
crops, as the protection afforded by the wall is of immense service
in maintaining the proper temperature when the wind is blowing
hard from the north. It isalso the best when the crops are required
to hang until February or March, as it is possible to maintain a
more equable temperature than in a span roof exposed to the winds
from all quarters. Lean-to’s are also suitable for late summer and
autumn crops, and wherever a wall exists againsti which a vinery can
be erected, they should have the preference to the span-roof. Span-
roof vineries have certain advantages which must not be overlooked.
They afford double the accommodation of a lean-to for about one-
third of the expense, when the back wall of the latter has to be
built, and owing to the light entering the house on all sides, there
is not much difficulty in producing highly-coloured samples.

As a matter of strict economy, the roof of the vinery should be
not less than fourteen feet in depth, because a less length of rafter
is insufficient for the free development of the vines, and there is no
material difference in the cost of building houses with ten and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 5

fourteen feet roofs respectively. Sixteen feet is better than fourteen,
although the latter will do very well. Asa rule, the heightfof the
houses should be equal to the width, as shown in the accompanying
diagrams. Front lights are quite unnecessary ; and as they add very
materially to the cost of the house, they may be well dispensed

Fie. 1,—LEAN-ro VINERY WITH OUTSIDE BorpER,

with. The bottom of the rafters may rest on a plate supported by
strong wooden uprights, as shown in Figs. 1 and 3, or ona plate
fixed on the front, as in Fig. 2. When wooden uprights are employed,
for the space between the wall and the plate upon which the rafters
rest, shutters of wood should be provided. These can be hung on

January.

6 THE FLORAL WORLD AND: GARDEN GUIDE.

hinges, and. be opened and shut from the inside or outside, but, as a
rule; it will, be found the most convenient to open them from the
outside. When the rafters rest upon the wall, openings provided

SG
Vas

Y
]
Y
J

S oy T>

Fra. 2.—Lrax-to VINERY, WITH BORDER INSIDE AND OUT,

with shutters will be required for ventilating purposes. The: roof
may be constructed with stout rafters and moveable lights, but fixed
sash-bars, with moveable lights at the top of the roof, do quite as

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 7

well, both as regards cheapness and utility. They can, therefore,
be the most strongly recommended. For the purpose’ of affording
additional strength to the roof when sash-bars are employed, a
rafter four inches deep by three inches wide must be fixed at every
six feet, and they and the bars should be connected together with
an iron tie-bar running along tie middleof the roof. This is simply
an iron bar an inch and a-half in width and a quarter of an inch in
thickness, and has screw holes at the same distance apart as the
rafters and bars. The latter, it may be useful to add, should be two
inches in depth and one in width, and be secured at the top to a
plate of wood fixed to the wall. In cases where the border is made

Fig. 3.—Span-roor VrNERY, WITH INSIDE BorpERS.

partly within, and partly without, as represented in Fig. 2, the front
wall should be built upon arches to allow the roots to extend freely

in both directions. In all other cases it should, of course, be quite
solid.

PREPARATION OF THE BORDER.

As vines frequently become unhealthy, and the grapes “ shank,”
or refuse to colour, when the roots run down into a cold and uncon-
genial subsoil, the proper steps must be taken to prevent their ex-
tending below the border. The latter may be partly below and
partly above the surface, as in the diagrams, or it may be altogether
below the surface. This point must be determined at the com-
mencement, so as to have the foundations at the proper depth,
without at the same time wasting money in having them deeper
than is really necessary. It will serve as a guide if it is at once
said that the depth of the soil should be three feet, the drainage

Janusry.

8 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

nine inches, and the concrete three inches, making altogether four
feet.

When the soil is taken out, the bottom of the excavation should
be made quite level and firm, and then a layer of concrete of the
thickness mentioned above, spread over it, and made quite level on
the top. The concrete is prepared by incorporating together newly
slaked lime and rough gravel, and working it up into the consistency
of mortar. After this is spread over the surface, allow it to become
dry and hard, and then proceed to fill in with rough pieces of stone
or broken bricks to a depth of nine inches, to form a drainage for
carrying off the superfluous moisture quickly. As an additional
precaution against the border becoming waterlogged, a pipe drain
may be laid down, as shown in the diagrams.

Over the rubble lay thin strips of turf, or some loose material
such as partly decayed manure, to keep the soil in its place until it
has become consolidated somewhat. The compost most suitable for
grape vines may be prepared by incorporating together six parts
good turfy loam taken from an old pasture or common, to a depth of
nine inches, two parts of lime rubbish, and one part of partly-
decayed horse-droppings. The addition of one part, or even less,
of crushed bones to seven parts of the mixture will be an advan-
tage, but they may well be dispensed with, as good grapes can be
grown without them. It must also be borne in mind that if good
turfy loam cannot be obtained without difficulty, good garden soil
may be used instead, and one-third more lime rubbish, and double
the quantity of horse-droppings employed. It will also be well to
add, that if the soil is comparatively light, the concrete and drainage
may also be dispensed with.

The width of the border may range from eight to fourteen feet,
but the proper width of the border is shown in the figures of the
houses which accompany these remarks. It remains to be said that
the soil should be allowed a fortnight or so to settle before the vines
are planted.

PLANTING VINES.

We now come to the question of planting the vines. Amateurs
who have to purchase vines should plant when they are at rest.
Summer planting has its advantages, and may be adopted with
success where the vines are ready to hand. But when the vines are
at rest they can be sent home from the nursery without any risk
of their being injured, and planted when most convenient. In
cases where the border is outside, as in Fig. 1, the vines must be
planted outside, and the canes brought through the wall in the
manner indicated. In other cases they should be planted inside,
between the front wall and the hot-water pipes. Medium-
sized vines cost from three shillings and sixpence to five shillings
each. As soon as the border is ready for planting, turn them out
of the pots, remove the crocks, and then loosen the roots round
the outside of the ball, and in filling in the soil about them, take
care to spread them out carefully, and to press the soil firm. Three
inches or so of the cane should be buried, to encourage the production
of new roots from it. After the planting is completed, prune them

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. “

back to within two joints of the ground level, or the point of their
entering the house, according as the case may be. They should be
planted three feet apart, and for a house thirty feet in length,
which would be a serviceable size, ten vines will be required.

SELECT GRAPES FOR THE AMATEUR’S VINERY.

Where there is only one house, and it is desired to have a supply
of grapes extending over as long a season as possible, the following
sorts, in the proportions here given for a house of the length above-
mentioned, will be found the most suitable ; namely, five Black
Hamburgh, two Buckland Sweetwater, and three Black Prince. Houses
forty or fifty feet in length may have a division in the centre, and
one end be planted with Black Hamburgh and Buckland Sweet-
water, for use early in the autumn, and Alicante and Lady Downes
for winter use. The Buckland Sweetwaters should be planted at
the rate of two to every five Black Hamburghs, and the other two
sorts in about equal numbers. By having one house divided into
two compartments, or two separate structures, a supply of the finest
grapes may be had from the beginning of August until the following
March without forcing the vines. Lady Downes keeps so well that
it may be had in excellent condition until April, if it is so desired.

THE SNOW PLANT OF THE SIERRAS.

NE of the grandest objects, says the San Francisco
Bulletin, which meets the eye of the traveller in our
mountains is the exquisite plant, the Snow Plant of the
Sierras — the Sarcodes sanguinea of John Torrey, the
botanist. It is an inhabitant only of the higher
Sierras, being rarely found below an altitude of 4000 feet, and its
glorious crimson spike of flowers may be seen early in May forcing
itself through the snow, which, at that period, clings about the sides
of our Pine forests. The portion of the plant which is visible above
the soilis a bright rosy crimson in colour, and presents the very
strongest contrast to the dark green of the Pines and the shimmer
of the snow. Its root is succulent, thick, and abundantly free of
moisture, attaching itself to the roots of other plants, principally
to the species of the Pine family. Hence it is among those curious
members of the vegetable world which are known to botanists as
parasites, and is consequently entirely incapable of cultivation. The
deer are extremely fond of it, and it is not an uncommon circum-
stance to find a number of the plants uprooted and robbed of the
fleshy part of their underground ‘growth by theso animals. It
belongs to the natural order Orobanchacez, and is met with through
the whole of the Sierra region, becoming rarer as we approach the
south.

. = =
y = a
oe
oa

‘a

January.

10 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ZONAL PELARGONIUMS FOR POT CULTURE.
BY JONN WALSH.

=q]OW that Zonal Pelargoniums are so extensively grown for
the decoration of the conservatory, I feel assured that a
few remarks on the varieties best adapted for that pur-
pose will be of considerable value to those who do not
enjoy the same facilities for observation as myself. To
grow the commoner kinds in pots for decorations is a waste of force,
and the selection of varieties for bedding and for pot culture must
be conducted on different principles. In the former case a profusion
of bloom is of first importance, but in the latter, quality is of more
importance than quantity ; and those having flowers of good form
are alone suitable. There is no difficulty in obtaining varieties of
the highest degree of excellence, for they are now abundant and
cheap. In remote districts there is, of course, considerable difficulty
in ascertaining which are the best in the several shades of colour,
for specimens at exhibitions seldom afford the desired information,
as a period of several years is taken up in the production of a
specimen, and the variety consequently becomes old, and in many
instances superseded, by the time it is exhibited. It may also be said
that the best varieties are not always taken in hand as the com-
mencement, and that they are frequently exhibited for five or six
years consecutively. The varieties which I shall recommend have
been selected from a collection comprising between five and six
hundred sorts, and they may in every case be considered the finest
in the respective shades of colour. There are many others exceed-
ingly beautiful, and, when well grown, present a most attractive
appearance ; but they are all inferior in ‘some way or other to those
which will be enumerated.

Let us first of all take the varieties representing the various
shades of red, scarlet, and crimson. Richard Coeur de Lion is grand;
the flowers are of fine shape, the truss large, and the colour brilliant
searlet. Jiienzi has fine cireular flowers, nearly three inches in
diameter, a good truss, and the colour is a most brilliant scarlet.
Corsair is, perhaps, the best of the scarlets, as it is wonderfully
bright, very neat in growth, and the large well-formed flowevs are
produced in great profusion. This must be had. Mr. Stanley is
of a dull orange red, and its flowers are produced mm immense
trusses; it forms a capital contrast to the dark varieties. Jessica
belongs to the nosegay section, but the flowers aud trusses are so
large and fine, and the colour—deep crimson—so rich, that it is first-
rate for pots. It is in the way of Wellington, but better. De
Lesseps has bright scarlet flowers of fine form, and can be com-
mended for its brilliant colour and fine quality. A. F. Barron, like
the preceding, has large flowers of a dazzling scarlet. Harry King
is remarkable for the fine form of the flowers, the immense size of
the trusses, and the deep rich scarlet colour; the flowers have a
large pure white eye. Peter Selby produces immense trusses of
reddish scarlet flowers, and is very attractive ; in habit it is very

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GADEN GUIDE. 1]

robust, and therefore especially adapted for large bushy specimens.
Arico differs from the whole of the preceding in having flowers of a
bright orange hue, and is alike remarkable for high quality and dis-
tinetness, Canmnell’s Dwarf also has red orange flowers, but they
are of a redder tone than the preceding.

Turning to the varieties with purple and blue-tinted flowers,
we have several of great beauty. WVelson is one of the best, for its
flowers, although not quite up to the standard, are produced in
splendid trusses. Mr. Chandler quite surpasses Ianthe, which has
hitherto been the best of the ‘‘ blue” geraniums, for it has better
shaped flowers, and the blue tint is more distinctly developed. Mrs.
Turner is one of the best in the section, for the colour is a glowing
purple-crimson. Heartsease is a little gem; it is dwarf, and pro-
duces: a profusion of blue-tinted flowers in neat trusses; it should
be im every collection. Dr. Sharpe may be considered a first-class
acquisition ; the flowers are of good form, and of a glowing purple-
crimson.

Amongst those with pink flowers, and of which Christine and
Blue Bell may be mentioned as types, we have. several most lovely
varieties for pot culture. Master Christine still maintains its repu-
tation as one of the very best for pot culture, with rose-pink flowers ;
it is dwarf, produces very freely fine trusses of flowers, and, properly
prepared, will bloom freely during the winter. Madame Rendatler
is very similar in habit and colour, and the flowers are of fine form;
this is, as yet, but little known, but the colour is so pleasing, the
flower of such fine form, and the habit. so good, that in a very short
period it will become very popular. ose of Allandale is stronger in
habit, and has flowers of a different shade of pink to the foregoing,
and is in every way first-rate. Mrs. Musters belongs to the nosegay
section, and has flowers of a pleasing shade of lilac pmk; the flower
trusses attain enormous dimensions, and the effect produced by 2
fair-sized specimen is wonderfully good. Mrs. Kent is similar in
habit to the preceding, and produces immense trusses, but the flowers
are of a warmer tone of pink. Mrs. Holden also produces grand
trusses of warm. rose-pink flowers, and is wonderfully effective.

At the head of the list of varieties with white flowers having
a pink centre, stands Alice Spencer, a robust grower, producing
immense trusses of flowers of superb quality. Remus is very similar
in style, but it is much smaller in every way, and exceedingly pretty.
Beau Villageois is also a superb variety, with pink centre. President
Thiers and Truth are two fine varieties with salmon-pink flowers,
without a white margin, and can be recommended as the best in their
class, although there are several others in the same way possessing
considerable merit.

There are several fine white varieties; and the best for small
plants is White Clipper, which, from its dwarf habit and free flower-
ing propensities, will, no doubt, become extremely popular for
bedding purposes as, well as for pot culture. Reine Blanche is a fine
white-flowered nosegay, well adapted for large specimens, ‘These,
and Madame Vaucher or The Bride, will be quite as many white
varieties as will be required in any one collection.

January.

12 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Cuttings of any of the foregoing, struck at once in three-inch
pots, and early in the spring shifted on as may appear necessary, ©
will be in grand condition for decorative purposes next summer.
They bloom superbly, and remain in splendid condition for a very
considerable period, when grown in six or eight-inch pots. Those
readers of the Froran Worxp who have no adequate idea of the
extreme magnificence of a well-flowered collection of zonal pelar-
goniums, should, if possible, avail themselves of an early opportunity
for inspecting the fine collection in Mr. Cannell’s nursery at Wool-
wich. Several hundred specimens are grown in pots, and as the
colours are most tastefully arranged, the effect is so good that it
would be difficult to convey an adequate idea of it. The collection
is, perhaps, the most comprehensive in the neighbourhood of London,
and as such a large number of the varieties are grown to a specimen
size, abundant opportunities are afforded for purposes of comparison
and selection.

HOW TO PRODUCE AN ABUNDANCE OF MUSHROOMS.
BY GEORGE GRAY,
Head Gardener, Ewell Castle.

=3 HE production of Mushrooms is attended with so few
difficulties that there are no valid reasons why the ama-
teur with accommodation of a very limited character may
not engage in it. In making this assertion I am well
~-_-«« aWare an impression prevails that it is a work of
great difficulty to grow mushrooms, and that considerable ex-
perience is needful before a thoroughly good crop can be insured.
There can be no doubt failures do occur frequently, but they are in-
variably the result of a neglect of some of the rules necessary to be
observed in prosecuting the work to a successful issue. There are,
of course, rules to be observed, but they are simple enough to admit
of their being readily understood by an amateur having some know-
ledge of garden practice. With a supply of short stable manure,
and a spare shed or cellar, the amateur may with very little trouble
insure a supply, extending over a considerable period, of mushrooms
of fine quality.

The amateur who is anxious to supply his table with mushrooms,
must reject all the fanciful methods of growing them as quite un-
worthy of his notice ; for to insure supplies worth gathering a good
bed must be made to grow them in. Tubs, boxes, or flower-pots, as
have been recommended by people who know very little about the
subject, entail an immense amount of labour, and the results are not
often satisfactory. The bed to be of practical service should be four
feet in width, and not less than ten feet in length. From a bed less
than this the supplies will be more or less intermittent. It may be
made up in any spare shed or out-house, or it may be made in the
cellar. The latter is perhaps the most suitable for beds made up in the
autumn, becausethe temperature willbe quite high enough throughout
the winter, and as it will not vary much even in severe weather, the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 13

beds will continue in bearing much longer than is the ease when
they are in unheated structures on the ground level. Those who
have no cellar may make preparations with the full assurance of
reaping an ample harvest, for the beds can be kept warm even in the
winter by means of a thick covering of short hay or straw and mats.
The most suitable place of all for making up a bed*is in a shed,
through which a hot-water pipe passes on its way to one of the plant
or fruit houses. In gardens where a shed of this kind exists, it
should be taken advantage of for the purpose indicated, as they are
in their way well nigh equal to a properly constructed mushroom
house. Indeed, these sheds are go valuable in mushroom growing,
that I would advise their being fitted up with shelves, formed of
stout rough planks of wood, to admit of two or three beds being
formed to insure a continuous supply.

A suitable place for the bed having been found, the next matter
requiring attention will be the preparation of the materials of which
it is to be formed. Mushroom beds may be made up with all horse
droppings, or part horse droppings and part short litter. The
mixture is the most economical, as a much larger bed may be had
with the manure obtained from the stables in a given time, or from
acertain quantity of manure purchased. The horse droppings and
short manure must be shook out from the bulk and spread out
somewhat thinly for it to dry a little to prevent its heating too
violently when thrown into a heap. When the manure for a mush-
room bed is collected day by day, it is very important to spread it
out under cover, to prevent its exhausting itself before the bed is
formed. When sufficient has been collected, it should be thrown
together and turned over every other morning, for a period of ten
days or a fortnight, to sweeten it.

The dimensions of a bed likely to yield good results has been
already stated, but it may be of a greater or lesser width and length
if more convenient; the depth mustin all cases be about twelve inches.
As each layer of manure is put in its place it must be well beaten
with the back of the spade, for it cannot well be too solid. Sticks
should be inserted in the manure and drawn out and examined occa-
sionally to ascertain the heat. If at the end of a week the sticks are
of a nice degree of warmth, the bed can be spawned ; but if they feel
hot, the spawning must be deferred until the heat begins to decline.
It will be perfectly safe to spawn when the heat of the bed is about
75°, provided it is not increasing, and at the end of a week there
will be no difficulty in determining this point if the test sticks have
been examined daily, or a thermometer buried in the manure, and
drawn out every other day,

Mushroom spawn is purchased in small cakes, similar in shape to
bricks, by the peck or bushel. It may be had of any seedsman, and
a peck will be ample to spawn a large bed. The spawn must be
broken up into pieces about the size of a walnut, and dibbled into
the bed at a distance of six inches apart; it should be buried about
four inches below the surface, and the holes filled in. If the tem-
perature is as low as 70° at the time of spawning, with no likelihood
of its going higher, cover with an inch or so of fine dry soil; if 75°,

January.

14 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

wait for a week or so before covering with soil. In a few days after-
wards, place a layer of wortkless hay or other dry material over to
preserve an equable temperature.

The bed must be maintained of a nice degree of moisture, but
under no consideration must it be made too moist. When the ma-
terials are dry the spawn will not run, and no mushrooms will be
produced; on the other hand, if kept too wet it will perish alto-
gether. Asa rule very little moisture will be required, but when
water is applied, it must be used in a tepid state, so that it does not
cool'the bed. In gathering the mushrooms itis goed practice to pull
them up, provided it can be done without disturbing those remaining,
as the stumps decay and afforda lodgment for grubs. When grow-
ing in clusters, as they frequently do, they must be cut off as low
down as possible, the necessary care being taken to avoid injurine
those remaining. The temperature of the structure should be main-
tained, if possible, between 45° and 50°, and the doors and windows
be kept close. The length of time the beds remain in bearing
differs considerably, and sometimes they cease to bear through be-
coming dry. ‘Therefore when the mushrooms cease to make their
“ppearance, examine the bed, and if it is dry, give it a moderate
watering. In breaking up an old bed, a portion of the material con-
taining a goodly proportion of spawn may be put by for spawning
those made wp subsequently. f

A NEW MODE OF GROWING LILY OF THE VALLEY.

BY F. SANDER AND CO.,
Royal Herts Seed Establishment, St. Albans.

pamacg ORTUNES are being built up on this humble plant, it
PS ~=employs thousands for several months in the year, in this
and other countries; it is the most favoured of all the
bulbous plants that come into Covent Garden Market, in
the winter ‘and spring months, and loaded with little green-
tipped lamps of white, is undeniably « queen among flowers.
As in many other cases, the demand has not only created a supply, but
improved its quality, and extended its season. At one time, Lily of the
Valley in plenty in May and June sufficed, now it is wanted from
December to August. At first, too, any flowers and foliage were good
enough, the perfume and the freshness of leaf and flower satisfied; new
flowers and leaves alike have to be developed to the uttermost, to satisfy
the new and growing demand for quality in both. ‘
The resources of the plant, and the skill of the cultivator, have both
been taxed to meet the new requirements. It will not do now to go to
the native haunts of this sweet Lily, and dig up a barrow-load of roots
for forcing as of old—neither is it enough that an old shady border in
some out-of-the-way place is devoted to its cultivation. To have it in
perfection, it must have a bit of the richest soil Hngland can furnish,
and be liberally nurtured with water during dry weather. Continental
growers seem to have first discerned how amenable the plant was to
high cultivation. They set about growing the Valley Lily, as they did
vhe Hyacinth and other bulbs. By incessant sub-division, and annual

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 15

or biennial planting in rich soil, they grow plants so fine and strong as
to be thought a superior and quite different variety. It is, however,
only the difference between a liberal and starving system of cultivation.
It was this superior mode of treating the Lily of the Valley, and the
continued demand, that originated the clump system. The crowns
grew so strongly, and produced a series of other strong crowns around
them, forming, in fact, clumps that were transferred to the English and
Foreign Markets bodily, just as they grew. The trade purchased, and
growers gledly bought, and still buy these clumps; they are an im-
mense improvement on the old plan of taking up patches of any and
every sort from wood and border for forcing. It is, however, obvious
that the clumps must contain a mixture of flowering and merely leaf
crowns, and so far there is a loss of space in forcing such; besides, the
carriage of clumps is heavy, consequently expensive; but the system is
nota bad one, especially for those who grow their own clumps. But,
doubtless, the single crown system is better, and will speedily supersede
it. It is more certain, requires less space, and is, therefore, more
economical; only the strongest flowering crowns are picked out, and
each of them holds a flower-spike in embryo.

The mode of cultivation, and the single crown system, also tend to
develop the full strength of each crown. ‘They are picked over annually
or biennially, all the finest crowns selected, and the others sorted and
planted on fresh ground. By such means, the entire energy and skill of
the cultivator is directed to the development of individual excellence; the
consequence is, that the crowns improve from year to year, and seem in
a fair way of overtaking ordinary asparagns heads. Space in heat is
always costly in winter and early spring, and as a dozen or more single
crowns may be flowered to perfection in a 4 or 5-inch pot, both space
and heat are economized.

These pots, fully furnished and in flower, are a sight to gladden the
eyes, and cheer the hearts, of all loveys of beauty. The flowers stand
up boldly above the foliage; and the Valley Lily, by the single crown
system, has assuredly risen in the world. They should be potted rather
firmly in a rich soil, and placed in a gentle heat; it is better to keep
them in a shady place until fairly started, when they may be gradually
inured to the light. Some keep the plants in semi-darkness until the
flowers are almost expanded; in that case there will be few or no leaves.
For cut flowers that may not matter, but for plants in pots, the fur-
nishing of vases, etc., the leaves are as essential as the flowers, and must
either be developed by growing the plants in the light, or forcing clumps
of common plants in boxes, specially for foliage; it may be well m
private establishments to do this, if the crown system is adopted, lest a
scarcity of foliage should occur. Some ladies like to see a thicket of
leaves, studded over with the charming crystal flowers. It is well, too,
with crowns, to excite root action rather in advance of the top, as it will
9e apparent to those familiar with the crowns and roots of the Valley
Lily, that there cannot be a very large portion of root to‘each, but the
root is the part always on the move for extension and reproduction, and
with a little genial treatment at starting, it will be sufficiently developed
to sustain the dower stem through its flowering period. More need
hardly be added on either the crown or clump system, the former is now
firmly established. Nearly all the beautiful plants that are sent to
Covent Garden Market are the produce of single crowns. Other fur-
nishers follow the lead of the row, and soon the system is likely to be
the only one in the trade. It is founded ona true principle; the more
all such plants as these are subdivided, the stronger the separate parts
‘become. Multiplication of parts, if skilfully managed, leads to.a concen-

January,

16 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

tration and augmentation of vital force. This is exactly what is wanted
in such plants as Lily of the Valley, Astilbe japonica, Violets, Myosotis,
and others used for forcing and furnishing. As to the exact mode of
procedure, the plants should not be kept too long out of the ground;
lay in the crowns as soon as received behind a north wall; they must
not be tempted to start out of doors. Put the first batch into the house
in November, and succeeding batches every fortnight, and continue
according to the demand till March. Place them in a close warm atmo-
sphere with little or no light, and abundance of moisture. The crowns
will throw up with arush, and soon break into blossom in a temperature
of 65 to 75 degrees. Very early and late blooms are somewhat difficult
to obtain. Crowns will require sharper forcing to start in November
than in January, and may be assisted with warm water early im the
season, and a temperature of from 75 to 80 degrees.

The crown system, with ordinary care, and a little more skill than is
needed to grow them in patches and clumps, will yield a capital supply
of Lily of the Valley from December till March. About the end of
May, and through June, the Valley Lily flowers in the open air, and by
choosing two or more situations, one the coldest, and the other the
hottest the garden can command, the season out of doors may be very
much extended. Another point remains to be noticed; the crown
system indoors will compel its adoption in the open air. It will hardly
do to reverse the usual order of things, in the case of the Lily of the
Valley, and have much finer forced flowers than those that come in their
natural season. The starving system with which the plant has been
treated in the open air, will no longer be tolerated; it must have liberal
treatment, and well-grown clumps or crowns be bought in, or prepared
at home, for the production of fine, strong flowers, either for cutting or
for the forming of beds, clumps, edgings, ete. For all these purposes
prepared crowns would create a new sensation, and givea fresh pleasure.

CARPET BEDDING AT THE CRYSTAL PALACE.

BY GEORGE SMITH.

ZaARPET BEDDING has, during the last five or six years,

|| undergone a wonderful degree of development, and
many, indeed, have been the happy combinations of
low-growing leaf-plants which have been presented to
= public notice in the metropolitan parks. Indeed, the
examples of this style of bedding during the last two years have
been so thoroughly good, that even the experts have been led to
believe that it was incapable of improvement. But it is not so, as
in the grounds of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, Mr. G. Thomson,
the able superintendent of the outdoor department, has this season
most clearly demonstrated. The system of carpet-bedding deve-
loped at the Crystal Palace is alike remarkable for its extreme
beauty and originality, and it may be safely said to quite surpass
all previous efforts in the same direction. The examples should
certainly be seen by all who are interested in flower-garden deco-
ration. There were a few carpet beds on the upper terrace, but
the principal examples were on the rose mount, which, as the
readers of these remarks are well aware, is contiguous to the

Lad
e

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. &

entrance from the station on the Brighton and South Coast Railway,
On the mount, Mr. Thomson has designed a series of eighteen beds.
which, seen from the broad walk at the foot of the glacis, have an
exceedingly beautiful appearance; for, from this point, the bold
outlines appear to great advantage ; and, from the walk above them,
they are by no means ineffective. The beds are circular, and of a
uniform size, the diameter being twelve feet. The designs worked
out are more or less complicated, but they are all characterized by
great taste, and in a critical examination, one is strnck by the fact,
that the materials employed are simple in character and limited in
number. There were less than a dozen different subjects employed in
the colouring of the beds, yet the designs were perfectly distinct, and
all were alike satisfactory. To describe the designs would be prae-
tically useless, for, without the assistance of diagrams, no one would
beable to copy them in a satisfactory manner. In one, the leading fea-
ture is a Maltese cross ; in another, alovers’ knot ; in another, a star,
and so on. Indeed, these examples prove to demonstration that the
combinations which may be formed with leaf-plants are well nigh
endless, and that, in consequence, even when the number of beds is
large, new designs may be employed every year, and an immense
amount of interest created thereby in the embellishment of the
flower-garden. We shall now speak as if the beds were before us.

The principal plants employed in the carpet-beds on the rose
mount are — Alternanthera amena, A. magnifica, and A. parony-
ehioides, three dwarf-growing plants, with carmine, orange red,
erimsou, and bronzy foliuge ; Coleus Verschaffelti, a weil-known, dark-
leaved plant, Hcheveria secunda glauca, a most useful succulent
for edgings ; Lobelia pumila grandifiora, a well-known variety of
eushion-like growth; Lobelia Bright Eye, a compact growing form of
L. speciosa; Pyrethrwm Golden Feather, the well-known yellow-leaf
plant ; Cerastiwm tomentosum, one of the most useful of silvery-leaved
plants of low growth; Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum,
a decumbent growing plant, with small leaves broadly, margined
with creamy yellow ; and Tagetes signata pumila, which is employed
for forming green bands. The flowers are removed, and by mode-
rate pinching, it forms capital bands of green. These are the only
subjects used, but there are several others which may be used with
good effect. There is, for example—

Alternanthera amena spectabile, a robust growing variety of this
highly-coloured plant. The leaves are of the same brilliant carmine
hue as the type, but the growth is more vigorous, and it is, there-
fore, a decided acquisition. A. magnifica, used extensively at the
Crystal Palace, is of more robust growth, and has foliage of a
bright orange-red and pale carmine, and is more generally useful
than A. amcena or its variety, as these are not so hardy or so free,
and have to be planted much closer together. But they are not
surpassed in brilliancy of colours.

Coprosma Baueriana variegata, a beautiful shrubby greenhouse
plant, with shining leaves broadly margined with yellow. It is
rather difficult to propagate, but when strong plants are put out,
and the branches pegged down, it is the most sin yellow

January,

18 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

carpet plant we have. Mr. Cole, the talented gardener at Haling
Park, increases it freely by planting those lifted from the beds in
the autumn in a bed of light sandy soil made up ina frame from
which the frost is excluded. The branches are pegged down and
covered with soil, and by the spring roots are emitted from the
whole length of the stems, which are cut up into as many pieces as
there are small side-shoots, and potted singly.

Stellaria graminea aurea, a distinct variety of this well-known
weed, with very bright yellow foliage. It is several shades richer in
colour than the Golden Feather, but in some respects it is less useful.
But as they are perfectly distinct, both are required. The Golden
Chickweed, as the Stellaria is now generally designated in response
to my suggestion, when first directing attention to its merits as a
bedding-plant, spreads close upon the ground, and forms a dense
carpet of gold. It is quite hardy, and can be propagated freely by
division or cuttings.

Cineraria maritima compacta, CO. asplenifolia, and C. ceratophylla,
are three hardy plants, with greyish-white foliage, which can be
kept down toa uniform height of six or eight inches, by a judicious
system of pinching. When propagated from cuttings, and planted
thickly, they form a most effective mass or line.

Centaurea ragusina compacta and C. plumosa argentea, are two
white-leaved plants of great merit for lines or masses, eight inches in
height. They cannot be stopped in the same manner as the Cine-
rarias, but if they attain too great a height, they can be kept down
by removing a few of the larger leaves. They are not first-class
carpet plants, but for some designs they will be found very useful.

Lobelia Lustrous is one of the best of the whole series for
earpet-bedding. It attains a uniform height of four inches, is mode-
rately dense in growth, and blooms freely and continuously through-
out the season; and does not go off in the same manner as L.
pumila grandiflora frequently does.

Leucophyton Browni is most useful for divisional lines. It is
peculiar in growth, and when planted thickly, and pinched mode-
rately, it forms a miniature hedge of the most silvery whiteness.
It is noteasy to propagate, but the best way of striking the cuttings
is to insert them thickly under a hand-glass, placed on a warm border
in the autumn.

Achillea umbellata and Veronica incana are two greyish-leaved
hardy plants of considerable value, but less so than others enu-
merated. The first-mentioned forms a pretty band from four to six
inches in height, but it is rather difficult to propagate.

Sedum acre elegans resembles in habit the specific form generally
known as the common stonecrop, but instead of being deep green,
1t has a decided creamy yellow hue, and for a low front line of a
quiet tone it will be found useful. It can be increased freely by
division, and requires no attention to keep it in order.

Carpet-bedding is undoubtedly costiy when well carried out, and
unless it is done well, it had better not be done at all. The plants
must be put close together for the purpose of producing an imme-
diate effect, and for securing the formation of good solid lines and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 19

pands from the first. Consequently, the number of plants necessary
is considerably in excess of the number required of such things as
geraniums and calceolarias. To plant each of the beds at the Crystal
Palace, to which allusion has been made, about seven hundred were
required, the total required for the 18 beds, therefore, was 12,600.
But it must not be forgotten that a very considerable propor-
tion of the subjects are perfectly hardy, and also that the beds
present a finished and attractive appearance immediately the planting
is completed. There is no waiting for effect, and no matter what the
weather during the summer may be, they present a most attractive ap-
pearance until the frost cuts off the Alternantheras, and other tender
things. Those who are strongly wedded to flowers will not like the car-
pet system, because, with one or two exceptions, leaf-plants are ex-
clusively employed. That it has defects there can be no doubt,
but when well carried out, it has advantages over flowering plants
which cannot be gainsaid. It has been said by those who object to
it, that an equally good effect could be produced by stretching strips
of coloured calico over the beds; but to make this assertion is to
talk nonsense, and to exhibit a profound ignorance of the whole
question, as the examples at the Crystal Palace abundantly testified.

STANDARD WISTARIAS.
BY A KENTISH GARDENER.

Wa V ERY ONE is acquainted with the lovely Wistaria sinensis
as a climbing plant, but very few people know how
effective it is when grown in the form of a standard
tree. It is not unfrequently supposed that the cha-

~_-racter of its growth renders it unsuitable for standards,
but it is not so, and I hope to be able to show how readily they may
be produced. There are not many examples to which reference may
be made, but there is one in the gardens of the Crystal Palace at
Sydenham, at the foot of the Rose Mount, and those who have seen
it when in full bloom will readily call to mind the very beautiful
appearance it had. I should not advocate the planting of a con-
siderable number of standards in one garden, as one or two will be
quite sufficient for those of an ordinary size.

As the Wistarias trained in the manner here referred to cannot,
so far as I am aware, be purchased, they will have to be grown at
home, and in selecting a position, it must be remembered that the
Wistaria thrives best in a warm well-drained spot, and in a rather
light soil. In forming a standard in a place where the natural soil
is not deep and good, take out the old soil two feet deep in a circle
eight feet over, and well stir up the bottom, and then fill up the
place with turfy loam, half rotten turfs chopped to pieces, and leaf
soil, in equal proportions. Well mix these ingredients together,
and put the stuff in the hole when quite dry. If the tree is to be
on turf, as it ought to be, there should be a circle two feet over left

January,

20 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

not turfed, in which to plant the tree, and to receive the support for
its branches.

A strong young healthy plant in a pot is decidedly the best; and
when it has shed its leaves in winter, cut it down to within four
inches of the ground. Early planting will enable it to make some
new roots, and in the spring it will put up one or more young
shoots. As soon as these are observed, a neat stake must be firmly
fixed in the ground, on which to trainthem. J should prefer always
to take as many as four shoots up from the bottom, but not to exceed
that number. And, if neatly and frequently trained straight up the
stake, they will in all probability grow high enough to form the
compound stem the first year; if they do not, they must be allowed
to remain without any further preparation for another year, or at
least until they have grown seven clear feet from the ground.

When they have grown thus far, the frame on which to form the
head must be put in its place. It should be formed of one quarter
inch wire, at least eight feet over, in the shape of an umbrella, only
not so convex in form, and supported in the centre by a stout oak
stake, six inches diameter at the ground level, and tapering to the
top to four inches in thickness. When this is completed, the young
growth in the winter should be headed back to the height of the
stake, which will induce more rods to spring out, and these must be
trained as near as possible at equal distances all over the wire frame,
and the next winter to be cut back again to within two feet of the
crown of the frame. This cutting back will induce the formation
of a greater number of shoots from each point headed back, but
only one of these is wanted for the purpose of training over the
frame from each point. The others are to be constantly pinehed
back, in the first place at six inches from the old wood, and then,
after it has grown a foot or two more, to the third bud from the
previous pinching. This constant heading back, as will be under-
stood by the experienced, causes the production of spurs, on which
the Wistaria always flowers ; and by securing these in the first in-
stance, at pretty nearly equal distances over the frame, we add not
only to the beauty, but also to the form of the tree. We might
cover the frame sooner by a couple of years if we were not to cut
back at all, but that would be at the risk of having a much less
number of flowering spurs, and those would be distributed unequally
over the frame. In every case it must be a work of time; but
when the object is once attained by following the directions here
given, there will be no regrets at the time occupied to secure it.

The cutting back at every two feet should be continued every
winter, and the same principle of pinching carried out during the
summer, as above advised, until the frame is covered down to the
outermost ring. The next summer’s growth may then be trained
round the outer ring, and, if necessary, the cutting back and pinching
must be followed up until every vacant space is filled with flowering
spurs ; after which the tree may be said to be formed, and must be
left almost to itself. At all events, no further pruning or pinching
will be necessary, except to cut in any stray growth. But as much
as possible the young growth should be tied in, and always be

' THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 21

kept at least five feet from the ground at the extremities. The
tree will of its own accord increase in height a few inches every
year over the crown. This must not be interfered with, for it gives
to it a more natural appearance than when trained.

In a sheltered spot, and planted in the soil recommended, a few
years would do much in the formation of a standard tree. The
frame and supporting stake must, of course, be left to its chance,
for, after a few years, the tree will so entwine itself about it, that it
would be almost impossible to remove it, although the tree might
be able to support itself. The frame, at all events, will be no eye-
sore, for the growth soon hides it. The tree will also extend itself
outwardly, if left alone ; but this must be allowed only by small
degrees beyond the frame, until the growth becomes strong enough
to support itself, and then it may be allowed to spread three or four
feet farther than the frame, if desired. The tree in the Crystal
Palace grounds is of a considerable age, and is now standing without
a support of any kind.

ON FORCING VEGETABLES.
BY W. BRADBURY.

HE forcing of asparagus, seakale, and a few other
vegetables, is by no means of a difficult character, and
a very few words will suffice to explain the details
sufficiently to enable the inexperienced amateur to act
upon them. French beans require a properly heated
structure, and some knowledge of their peculiarities before they can
be grown under glass with a fair degree of success, and it therefore
does not appear desirable to include them with those vegetables
which can be grown in rough-and-ready contrivances, and from the
hints that will be given as we proceed.

Asparacus.—This delicious vegetable is usually so much appre-
ciated that wherever it is practicable a rather liberal supply should
be maintained during the earlyspring. There are two ways of forcing
it. One in the beds, by means of fermenting materials and a covering of
glass ; and the other in pits or frames. The last-mentioned plan is
the one to which we shall now direct attention, because to force it
in the beds they must be specially prepared for forcing when
formed. As asparagus is practically worthless when white, except-
ing it be to look at, it should be grown in the full light, and a moderate
circulation of air maintained in the frame for the development of
the full flavour. The simplest course is to make up a good bed of
leaves, put a one- or two- light frame upon it, and, after covering the
surface with a good layer of light soil, pack the roots close together.
They will require a covering of two or three inches of fine soil, and a
little soil should also be worked between the roots to insure a proper
degree of moisture being maintained about them. By lifting them
with a moderate quantity of soil adhering to the roots, they will hardl,
feel the removal, and will, with the assistance of a genial warmth

January.

22 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

push up strong, and yield a good supply. An excess of heat will
be most injurious; and when the bed is made up with manure from
the stable, the roots must not be put into the frame until the heat
has declined to 80 deg., for if the roots are not injured by the heat,
the growth will be too rapid and the produce small and second-rate
in quality. With a good bed of fermenting materials in the frame,
the heat rising from it will be quite sufficient for the maintenance of
the top heat. When forced in a pit heated with hot water, a tempe-
rature of 60 deg. will suffice. At first the frame may be kept quite
close for the purpose of economizing the heat as much as possible; but
immediately the shoots make their appearance above the surface, the
frames must be ventilated freely whenever the weather will admit of
its being done. The lights must be tilted an inch or so both night
and day, to allow the steam arising from the fermenting materials to
escape. When shut up in the steam for any length of time, the
flavour will not be so rich and full as could be desired. To maintain
a supply of crowns for forcing, a bed should be planted with two-
year-old roots annually. Roots of this kind do not cost much;
but an abundance may be obtained by sowing a few rows in the
kitchen-garden, and thinning the young plants to a few inches apart,
when large enough to handle conveniently. They should remain in
the rows for two years, and then be lifted and replanted in soil that
has been well prepared and enriched with old hot-bed or farmyard
manure. It is not needful to prepare beds in the usual manner, as
good roots may be obtained by planting, in rows eighteen inches
apart, on the level. The roots should be planted about eighteen
inches apart in the rows.

SEAKALE is in some respects preferable to asparagus for forcing,
as much larger supplies are obtainable from a given space and with
a certain amount of trouble. It is also more accommodating than
asparagus, as it may be forced in a mushroom-house, cellar, or in
boxes or barrels covered over to exclude the light. It may also be
forced in the open ground by covering with pots and fermenting
materials. | When forced out-of-doors strong clumps should be
formed about three feet apart each way by planting three or four
roots together, so that no time may be lost. For convenience of
gathering, the ordinary seakale pots with the moveable tops, or old
casks cut in half and fitted with a loose top, should be used. A
thickness of from two feet to thirty inches of fermenting materials
will suffice to cover the crowns, and if much more is put on, the
heat will be too much, and the leaf-stalks will be thin and cut a poor
figure upon the dinner-table. When forced in a cellar or mushroom-
house, the roots must be lifted and packed close together in a corner
where no light can reach them. It is advisable to place a little soil
between the roots and to bury them low enough to leave the crowns
visibie above the surface. The side roots will require removing
when they are lifted, and all that are of the size of a pencil must be
put by for planting in the spring. Those roots when planted in rich
soil will acquire sufficient strength to be forced the winter following,
and, under ordinary cultivation, they will be large enough for forcing
the secondyear. The roots shouldbe planted earlyin the spring, nine

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 23

inches apart, in rows fifteen or sixteen inches from each other. Avery
good supply may be obtained by packing the roots, with a little soil
between them, in the bottom of a barrel or deep box, and then cover-
ing them with a board and some old woollen material to effectually
shut out the light. They can then be placed in the greenhouse or
forcing pit, where, by placing them under the stages, they will practi-
eally take up no room. ‘To maintain a regular supply, a portion of
the roots in the open border must be covered up at intervals of three
weeks; and when forced in-doors, a batch of roots will require to
be lifted at the same intervals between. In cutting seakale, take off
a small portion of the crown, as the cook can send it to table quite
whole with considerably less difficulty.

Ruvpars is so easily forced that very few words will suffice to
convey an idea of the best means of securing an abundant supply.
The small growing high-coloured sorts are the most useful for
forcing, as they do not take up so much room, and are of a higher
quality. In forcing it out-of-doors it is simply necessary to cover
the roots with a cask without a bottom, and provided with a loose
lid and fermenting materials in much the same manner as the sea-
kale. When forced under cover, lift the roots with as much soil
adhering to them as possible, and place them in the mushroom-house,
a warm cellar, or a dark corner in the forcing-pit. When placed in
the dark it is of a more delicate flavour and richer in colour than
when fully exposed to the light. Some difference of opinion exists
in reference to this point; but by comparing the produce of roots
placed in the light with that obtained from those in the dark, there
will be no difficulty in determining which of the two is the best.

CULTIVATION OF THE PHLOX.

BY JOHN FRASER,

Lea Bridge Road and Leyton Nurseries.

ae LOXES are beautiful hardy plants, and to have them
x an) Hl in the finest possible condition, they must not be
a he! a4; planted out in the borders, as heretofore, and left to
Vie their fate; but attention is invited to the following
Kemet) arks on their culture, which are the result of some
years’ experience. Early in spring procure healthy young plants
and in selecting a situation for planting out, choose a spot where
there is a little shelter from strong winds; but otherwise it should
be fully exposed to all the air and sunshine. The ground should be
trenched, and enriched with some good rotten manure, and the
plants planted from fifteen to eighteen inches apart. Care should
be taken to have a good stake to each plant, and as the shoots
advance in growth, they should be securely tied to it. If this is
neglected, they are very likely to be snapped off close to the ground
A slight wind is sufficient to do this, and then the plant is spoiled
for the season. Upon the approach of dry weather, the beds should
January.

24, THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

be mulched, and copious waterings with liquid manure will be very
beneficial. If a Phlox is well managed, it will be in its prime the
second year of its flowering. A good two-year-old plant will
generally start many shoots, but five or six only should be left to
go up for flowering. The spare shoots may be used for cuttings,
and make fine flowering plants for the next year. There cannot be
much done in arranging these Phloxes according to their height;
in this (with two or three exceptions) there is very little difference.
The first year they generally flower when about fifteen or eighteen
inches high; but the same plants, in the second year, will grow
two or three feet. A continual succession of young plants should
be kept up by cuttings. Dividing the roots is a clumsy method of
increasing the stock, and plants obtained in this way seldom pro-
duce fine healthy foliage and good flowers.

A Phlox should be thrown away when it gets over two years
old, and a young plant put in its place. Sometimes Phloxes may be
placed here and there in mixed borders or shrubberies, where they
help to make a garden gay and furnish a few cut flowers; but the
spare plants only ought to be used for this purpose, as they never
under this treatment produce such fine flowers as when they have a
place to themselves.

It is remarkable that the distinguished beauty of the Phlox does
not yet seem to be fully appreciated. It is now pretty generally
acknowledged that something is wanted to relieve the monotony of
the solid daubs of colour that are found in the flower-beds in the
public parks and in our best gardens. The Phlox, with its variety
of colours, and its distinct and elegant habit, seems to be one of the
very best and most effective plants for the purpose. All shades of
colour such as purple, rose, salmon, crimson, white, scarlet, pink,
ete., areto be had; some of the darker colours being particularly
rich and attractive. Round beds of good size—say eight, ten, or
twelve feet across—if managed upon the system of culture here
given, and the plants be prevented from seeding, will give a grand
display of bloom from July till September. Anyone who has read
the foregoing remarks must be aware that the management of
the plant is simple; and being quite hardy, its culture may be
carried out by those who have only scant accommodation for storing
plants in winter.

The varieties of Phlox decussata are the best and hardiest, and
have been very much improved lately. There used to be some
pretty varieties of Phlox pyramidalis, but they are delicate, and,
with few exceptions, have given place to the former.

Messrs. Scrron anp Sows offer for competition at the exhibitions of the Royal
Horticultural Society, to be held in 1875, a series of silver and bronze medals, in
addition to numerous money prizes, for vegetables.

Dr. Hooxer’s Parrr on Carnryorovus Pruants has been reproduced in a neat
pamphlet form, and freely distributed amongst members of the literary world and
scientific societies.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Or

NOTES ON LYCASTES.

ma HE beautiful Lycaste Skinner is specially adapted to the
} requirements of amateurs, for it succeeds, and grows,
and flowers freely under ordinary good management,
does not require a very high temperature, and blooms
" during winter and spring. It is indeed one of the best
known of cool orchids, as well as one of the cheapest. There are
several varieties of this beautiful species, and that known as L.
Skinnert alba is the most distinct and expensive. There are in
addition to L. Skinneri several pretty species, which, although not
so valuable, are well worth growing. There is L. aromatica, which
blooms in May, with lovely yellow flowers, which are most deli-
ciously fragrant. One good-sized plant of this kind is sufficient to
perfume a large house. Another good kind is ZL. crwenta, which
flowers two months earlier than the preceding, with yellow and
crimson flowers. L. Deppei is also worth growing; it has a pretty
yellow flower, with a brown lip, and is in perfection in June. L.
Lawrenceana is really spleadid, and should be in every collection.

A most suitable temperature in which to grow Lycastes is
fromm 55° to 65° through February and March, which will start
them beautifully, and then as the days lengthen, and the principal
atmospheric warmth is derived from the sun, a rise to 75° or 80°
will keep them growing vigorously, and enable them to complete
their growth early, so that the young bulbs will be well ripened,
and able to stand a low temperature of from 45° to 50° through the
winter. When the season’s growth is about finished, and the plants
are gradually declining to rest, they should have all the light they
can conveniently be exposed to without the sun actually scorching
them. I might mention here that it is very difficult to keep them
in a low temperature through the winter, unless the young bulbs
are thoroughly matured ; the importance of this cannot possibly be
overrated, as a great deal, if not everything, depends upon this as
to whether the plants bloom profusely or not the following season.

There will be no difficulty in growing Lycastes in a mixture of
equal parts of sphagnum and rough fibry peat, combined with plenty
of drainage to allow free egress for the water, which should not be
administered in too great abundance, even when the plant is in full
yrowth, and not more than is sufficient to keep the bulbs from
shrivelling when it is at rest. Some of them have large fleshy
bulbs, which are exceedingly liable to decay at the base if kept too
wet at any time, particularly through the winter. To guard against
this as much as possible, the plants should be potted so that the
base of the bulb stands three or four inches above the rim of the
pot, varying it according to the size of the plant. All the species
are propagated by division, which is best effected in the spring, after
the young growths have pushed about an inch or so in length. But
amateurs who purchase medium-sized plants will have no occasion
for dividing them for some years hence, as the best effects are pro-
‘duced by specimens of a rather large size.

January.

26 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

CANNELL’S SYSTEM OF HEATING PLANT-HOUSES.

IR. CANNELL has, during the last few years, introduced
W}| a system of heating plant structures in his nursery at
Woolwich, which is certainly quite new, and appears to
be well deserving of the instant attention of those who
are interested in the heating of plant-houses and pits.
Instead of fixing large pipes upon, or just above the floor of the
house or pit, small pipes an inch or so in diameter are fixed just
under the roof, as shown in the accompanying illustration. By this
arrangement, Mr. Cannell considers that he is able to provide the

GERANIUM HOUSE HEATED BY CANNELL’S SYSTEM.

inmates of the houses with warmth in the most congenial form pos-
sible, and he also believes the plants thrive better in houses so
heated, than when the pipes are fixed in the usual way. He has
now adopted this system in nearly all the plant-houses and pits in
his nursery, and the healthy condition of the plants prove in a most
unmistakeable manner that it may be adopted elsewhere, without
any risk of the plants suffering. This system of heating cannot, of
course, be adopted in ornamental structures, because of the necessity
for keeping the pipes out of sight, but for houses in which plants
are prepared for conservatory decoration and the flower-garden, no
difficulty will be experienced.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 27

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR JANUARY.

*‘ The scene is cloth’d in snow from morn till night,
The woodman’s loath his chilly tools to seize;
The crows, unroosting as he comes in sight,
Shake down the feathery burden from the trees:
To look at things around he’s fit to freeze;
Sear’d from her perch the fluttering pheasant flies ;
His hat and doublet whiten by degrers,
He quakes, looks round, and pats his hands and sighs,
And wishes to himself that the warm sun would rise,

«< The robin, tamest of the feather’d race, ‘
Soon as he hears the woodman’s sounding chops,
With ruddy bosom and a simple face
Around his old companion jearless hops,
And there for hours in pleased attention stops ;
The woodman’s heart is tender and humane.
And at his meals he many a crumble drops.
Thanks to thy generous feelings, gentle swain ;
And what thy pity gives shall not be given in vain.’’—CLarg,

ANNUALS sown now in pans, and placed in a cucumber-pit or in a vinery, will
make a good start for early bloom. They should be sown thinly, the pans should
have plenty of drainage, and a fibry soil should be used, so that in pricking them
out they may be lifted with bundles of fibres with little injury.

APPLE AND Pear TREES infested with moss or vermin may be much benefited
by being painted all over with a mixture of Gishurst Compound and clay, or a
mixture of lime, soot, and clay.

Asparacus.—The soil of the forcing-beds must be sufliciently moist. A heat
of 55° to 60° will be suflicient, but it must not decline below 55°. Straw hurdles
are of great service to prevent a cooling of the bed during severe frost and north-
east winds.

AvricuLas should have the old decayed leaves removed, but in doing so be
careful not to injure them. The plants must never be dust dry; but beware of
damp, and during frost avoid watering until a favourable change occurs, if possible.

AZALEAS coming into bloom must be kept at a regular temperature, and have
plenty of water. Beware of urging them too rapidly, and place none in the stove
Cie they have been first gently stimulated by the warmth of an intermediate

ouse.

Brppineé Prants should be propagated according to their habits. Those that
require to make a free growth before they bloom to be pushed on first, and those
that come into bloom quickly may be deferred.

CaMELLIAS coming into bloom to be assisted by sprinkling the borders, paths,
and pipes occasionally, to allow.a diffusion of vapour. ‘There is no class of plants
that more enjoy atmospheric moisture, but as the blooms expand they require a
drier and cooler air,

CrnERARIAS throwing up their flower stems to be put in an intermediate house
for early flowers. The most backward to be repotted at once, so as to make fine
specimens for a very late bloom. Keep the stock clean, use sulphur where mildew
occurs, and fumigate for green-fly.

Conservatory.—Let nothing suffer for want of fire-heat. Forced bulbs will
require warm positions ; but Heaths, Epicrises, and other hard-wooded plants, may be
at the cool end. For succession now, Mignonette, Primulas, Violets, Lily of the
Valley, Luculia gratissima, Poinsettias, Euphorbias, and Justitias are particularly
valuable. Keep the atmosphere dry, to prolong the bloom of Camellias and Azaleas.
Average temperature, 45° by night and 55° to 65° per day.

Cucumzer Pxuants tn bearing will require occasional watering with liquid
manure, and as much light as possible to keep them in health. Keep the atmo-
sphere moist; temperature, 60° by night, 70 to 75° by day, 80° withsunshine. Sow
in pots for succession plants.

GREENHOUSE to be kept clean aud airy, and the whole of the stock to be
revised, that there may be no propagating of useless stock, and no delay in securing
stock of things really desirable. Nearly all the small plants from cuttings of last
autumn will now require to be repotted, and, as they are now intended to grow, a

January.

983 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

generous soil may be used, rather rough, turfy, and quite sweet. Fill in round
the roots with fine sandy mixture. Keep close till they make fresh roots. If
convenient, have all the lights cleaned inside, and be on the look-out for slugs and
woodlice, which are now coming out hungry from their winter retreats, and will do
great nayoc among pans of seedlings and tender vegetation of all kinds.

Kitcnen Garpen.—There should be no delay in getting ready every inch of
ground intended for summer crops. Get all plots requiring manure ready at once,
as itis much better to have the ground prepared in advance, that the manure may
be more completely incorporated with the soil, than to sow or plant immediately
after manuring. Ground for peas, beans, onions, cauliflowers, and broccoli must be
liberally manured and deeply stirred.

Metons for a first crop to be sown at once. The seeds to be put singly in
small pots.

MIGNoNETTE is one of the most useful annuals to sow now, as it will come into
bloom by the time the weather is sufficiently genial to allow of the pots being placed
in windows.

Mvsuroom Beps for an early supply should now be commenced. Save for the
purpose fresh horse droppings, spread thinly on in very small heaps.

OranGE TreEEs should be well cleaned now, to remove scale ; and the tubs and
pots have a fresh surfacing of rich soi]. When starting plants of this kind, keep up
a moderately-moist atmosphere.

Oxcuiws showing signs of growth to be potted or shifted into larger baskets
according to requirements, and be at once placed in the warmest end of rhe house.
The general stock to have no more water than will suffice to prevent shrivelling.
At this time of year take especial care to guard against lodgments of water among
the bulbs, or on the surface of the soil in pots where the drainage is defective.

PoTators may be planted in frames, where they can be covered with mats or
calico lights. Choose hard tubers, and let them sprout in full daylight first; the
sprouts should be dark coloured, firm, and plump.

Satapines.—On warm sloping borders under walls facing south, sow early
short-top radish, Hammersmith and Paris eos lettuce, two-bladed onion, mustard, and
golden and Normandy cress. Sow but smali breadths at first, as some of the
sowings may be lost: and at the same time sow a few boxes of lettuce, to be
placed in a gentle heat for planting out hereafter.

Sow iy HEAT tomatoes, capsicums, melons, cucumbers 3 out of doors. on warm
slopes, dwarf-beans, early peas, early horn carrot, short-top radish, cabbage, and
Hammersmith lettuce.

Srove.—The temperature may be increased now with advantage. Achimenes
and Gloxinias, pushing briskly, to be potted to succeed the first batch. These
require full light while growing, though their flowers must be shaded.

Vives well started to have all superfluous buds rubbed off, and the young
shoots to be stopped as soon as they have made growth enough to allow of the
removal of the joint one bud above the bunch. A full development of leaf surface
is most important, and every leaf should have its proper share of light. Vines to
he started with fire-heat must have the assistance of atmospheric moisture by
copious syringings, and the use of troughs on the pipes or flues.

BovssINGAULTIA BASSELLOIDES, one of the most beautiful plants from the
Quitian Andes, may be considered one of the finest climbers for cool conservatories
in cultivation. A specimen planted on one of the mounds in the conservatory of
the Royal Botanic Society in the Regent’s Park, makes annually a most vigorous
growth, and during the month of September produces an abundance of flowers. It
has a slender twining growth which, with the assistance of a trellis, or a few wires,
soon mounts to the roof, and in the autumn blooms very freely. The flowers,
which are borne in clusters, are pure white and highly fragrant. It was intro-
duced as a stove climber, but subsequent experience has shown that it is not only
adapted for cool conservatories but will also grow sufficiently to produoe a good
display of flowers when planted out of doors in a favourable situation. It has,
indeed, been recommended as a hardy climber, but it is too tender for planting out

of doors, excepting in a kind climate, and even then it is killed outright by a sharp
frost,

THE, FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 29

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

sqHE Royat Horticutturat Socrery has, we are informed, determined
to hold a series of evening meetings at South Kensington. The meetings
are to be of an educational character, as, for example, the reading of
papers and oral addresses, and lectures on the scientific principles of
practical horticulture. The present series will comprise six meetings,
to commence early in the present month. ‘The dates and particulars will be shortly
announced.

Tue HorricutturaL Inpustry oF GHENT is a very important one, as may be
gathered from the following particulars furnished to the Gartenfreund by Professor
Van Hulle, The writer observes, there are as many as two hundred nurseries in
and around that town, almost exclusively devoted to raising ornamental plants and
the better sort of fruit trees. The glass houses occupy an area of nearly eighteen
acres, and in these houses from 2,705,000 to 3,542,000 plants are annually raised,
to the value of from 5,930,000 to 7,705,000 franes.

Tire BoraNricaL MaGazinE For 1874 is dedicated to Mr. G. Maw, of Benthall
Hall, Broseley, by Dr. Hooker, as a tribute to the value of the services rendered in
introducing hardy plants to English gardens.

Tux Frurr Suow held in the Pomona Gardens, Manchester, in the early part
of last month, was attended with a large measure of success. The schedule was
comprehensive and the prizes liberal, and, as a natural result, the competition very
spirited. There were something like two thousand entries, including over sixty hand
bouquets, and a large number of epergnes for the dinner-table. There were nearly
fifty Pine-apples, an immense quantity of Grapes, and of Apples and Pears the
numbers were simply enormous. Palms, Tree Ferns, and flowering and fine foliage
plants, were also staged in large numbers, and added materially to the attractive-
ness of the exhibition.

Tur PeLARGoniuM Soctery is making good progress, and the Committee, which
includes the names of Dr. Denny, Mr. Shirley Hibberd, Mr. Pearson, Mr. George,
Mr. Postans, Mr. Grieve, and other well-known raisers and cultivators, have prepared
and issued a liberal schedule of prizes for competition at the exhibition of the Royal
Horticultural Society, to be held at South Kensington on the 21st of July next.
In addition to the prizes mentioned in the Froran Wortp for October, 1874,
psge 317, others will be offered for Cape species, hybrids, and stands of cut blooms,
of twelve and twenty-four trusses respectively.

ur Lrnpiey Mepat, which was proposed some years ago since by the Council
of the Royal Horticultural Society, asa reward for superior cultivation of any special
subject exhibited at the meetings of the society, is at length prepared ; it is a hand-
some work of art, and its estimated value, £15, On the obverse is a portrait of Dr.
Lindley, enclosed with a laurel wreath, and the inscription, “ Dr. John Lindley,
F.R.S., born February 5th, 1799. Died November Ist, 1865 ;” on the reverse, Flora
with wreath in her left hand, and the inscription, “ Royal Horticultural Society.”

Tur Royat Boranic Socrety will hold the undermentioned exhibitions in their

ardens in the Regent’s Park during the current year, namely :—Spring Flowers,
Wednesdays, March 31, April 28 ; Summer, Wednesdays, May 26,:June 16 ; Fruit
and Gut Flowers, Wednesday, June 30; Evening Hete, Wednesday, July 14;
Special Exhibition of Clematis from the nursery of G. Jackman and Son, Woking,
May 1 to 24; Lectures, Fridays in May and June.

PoINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA formed a grand feature in the Church Walk Nursery,
Stoke Newington, previous to the Christmas festivities. Mr. Oubridge had in one
house alone over 2,000 plants, all of which were furnished with splendid bracts, and
consequently made a grand display.

BoLpoA FRAGRANS, the plant yielding the new drug “boldu,” which is said
to be remarkably efficacious in promoting digestion and in liver diseases, has
recently flowered in the gardens of the Royal Botanic Society. Specimens may
also be seen in the collection of economic plants at Kew. It is a native of the
Chilian mountains, where it assumes the form of a small, much branched tree.
The flowers are borne in auxiliary racemes. It was introduced in 1844, and has
been figured and described in the Botanical Register and in Lindley’s Vegetable
Kingdom.

January.

30 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Moon Frowrr.—W. K., Madeira.—There are two plants known as the Moon
Flower ; one is Chrysanthemum segetum, and the other Ipomea bona-nox. The
last mentioned is the one known in India under that name,

Names or Ferns.—Znquirer, Tarbolton.—The names of the ferns are as
follows :—No. 1. Gymnogramma leptophylla; 2. Asplenium adiantum nigrum ;
3. Asplenium trichomanes ; 4. A small barren frond, and insufficient {for identifi-
cation ; it is probably the same as No. 2,

A. Y. B.—In reference to your first question, we can only say that we cannot
advise you to do that which is illegal.

Onion Gres.—4A, ¥. B.—The onions are suffering from the attacks of the
erub or larve of the onion fly (Anthomyia ceparum), and tLere is no means of
destroying the grubs without injury to the crop. One of the best preventatives is
to spread a little gas-lime between the rows when the onions are in a seedling
state, as the smell is offensive to the fly, and may prevent its eggs being de-
posited in the onions, A sprinkling of charcoal over the surface has also been
tried with some degree of success, as the eggs are frequently deposited in the
charcoal, and consequently perish. In the cultivation of onions on soils {in which
the fly is troublesome, it is a most excellent plan to soak the bed a month or so
before sowing with dilute sulphuric acid. In the case of spring-sown onions, a
light dressing of gas-lime applied in the autumn, and dug in after it has been
exposed to the atmosphere, will be of considerable service in warding off the
attacks of the grub.

Snarts.— 4. Y. B.—Search amongst the crops and gather up all that can be
found, and destroy by sprinkling lime or salt over them, or by scalding them with
boiling water. A few heaps of brewers’ grains in various parts of the garden will
form excellent trap:; and if these are occasionally examined a considerable
number may be caught and destroyed. A little powdered lime sprinkled about,
not over, the plants most severely attacked, will assist in protecting them from
the ravages of these pests.

Bowiinc Green.—G. J. W.—Ashes are quite unnecessary and the turf
should be laid upou the soil without any ashes underneath,

Necrarine Tree.—W. A., Kent.—As the tree makes a most vigorous growth
and bears abundance of fruit, it is difficult to suggest the cause of the fruit not
ripening properly, especially as the other trees on the same wall bring their crops to
maturity. It would be interesting to know which variety it is, as the Stanwick, a
large and handsome fruit, seldom ripens properly against an open wall, Under the
circumstances the gardener acted wisely in giving the tree liberal supplies of water.
Tt will not be needful to cover up the wood of Marechal Niel on the wall unless the
weather sets in severe, when the protection of mats will be required to protect the
shoots from injury. Inakind climate in which the “ sweet-scented verbena”’ can be
grown out-of-doors with very little protection, this rose will not in ordinary seasons
require covering at all, but as it is best to be on the safe side, you will act wisely in
covering where there is a probability of more than eight or ten degrees of frost, and
to save time and labour the protecting materials may be left on until all danger is

ast.
j Varrous.—Miss J. L., H. J. Moffat.—Taking the questions seriatim we would
say, in answer to No. 1, that the hay will do no harm whatever; but, on the con-
trary, afford material protection to the roots. No. 2. The crab should not be
pruned, with the exception of shortening back a few of the longer branches, which
are likely to spoil the outline of the tree. In the course of the forthcoming season
these shoots will be well furnished with flower-buds, and the following spring the
trees will, in all probability, be solid with bloom, and present a wordrously attractive
appearance. No. 8. Vegetables cannot well be grown underneath the stage in the
pit, as there would not be sufficient light, and moreover the drip from the plants
above would be very injurious. Radishes and small salading may be grown in a bed
of soil made up on the stage, and the genial warmth derived from the bed of leaves
and manure would be of considerable assistance in promoting an carly growth.
The bed should be from nine to twelve inches in thickness, and be formed with
some nice, friable soil. It will also be useful for raising a stock of lettuce, cauli-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. OU

flowers, and cabbage, for early planting, and also for raising half-hardy annuals,
such as asters and stocks. The best radish for frame culture is Wood’s short-top
scarlet. No.4. We have advised borders filled with herbaceous plants not to be
dug when the plauts are at rest, because of the risk of a large portion of the stock
being injured in the operation. When done carefully, as in your case, it is most
beneficial to the plants, and also gives the border a more tidy appearance. No. 5,
The Weigela will require very little pruning. Some of the longest shoots may be
shortened back, some time in February, and a few of the weakest shoots where the
wood is crowded, may also be thinned out.

Name or Prant.—X. Z., Bretlands.—The plant is most probably Pelargonium
spinosum.

Tusreroses.—H. VM. Carwardine——The bulbs should have been kept in the
pots until they were at rest. As a rule, however, they are of very little use after
they have done flowering. The young bulbs are of no value, and they may there-
fore be taken off and destroyed.

TreEs FoR SuHEitER.— H.F.—As the lawn is in an exposed situation we think
your idea of enclosing the lawn with a belt of free-growing trees such as you
name, a good one, asthey will serve to shelter the choicest subjects. We should
make two belts, one for the Scotch firs and other hardy trees, and the other for
the shrubs. In the outer belt we should plant three rows of Scotch and spruce
firs, with a few larch. The latter will do well in a high and exposed position, but
as it grows thin and_loses its foliage through the winter, it is of very little use
for protective purposes. In the inner belt we should plant Abies Douglassi rather
extensively, 4. nigra, Cedrus atlantica C. libani, (the cedar of Lebanon), Pinus
austriaca, P. Lambertiana, P. strobus (tle Weymouth Pine), Thuja crientalis, T.
gigantea, T, Lobbi, Taxus baceata, T. baccatanigra, T. fastigiata (Irish yew).
The foregoing are all good and hardy, and we should prefer having several plants
of a few kindsthiat will do well to one plant each of a large number ofkinds. We
should plant little else beside evergreens for mixing with the above. If you use
many deciduous trees or shrubs, the lawn will be without shelter in the winter,
which isjust the time itis most required. Plant the common Tyee Box and the
broad-leaved variety, B. latifolia, the common Laurel, and the handsome hardy
Colchican. Almost any of the Hollies will suit you; Pstllyrea media and the
evergreen oak, Quercus ilex, are also good. You had better plant the whole of the
subjects rather small, for there is a great risk of their perishing if large.

Surussy Veronicas.—B.B.—Veronicas are, comparatively speaking, easy to
grow, and when done well they are grand subjects for conservatory decoration
through the latter part of the summer. Small plants can be grown without any
special training ; but larger specimens will, of course, require a little attention in
that way. Those intended for growing into specimens should be potted on as re-
quired through the first season and kept tied out, and the young shoots pinched
back, to get them into a good shape. Use, for potting, good turfy loam two parts
and a third part of equal quantities of leaf-mould and rotten dung, and give the
last shift not latter than September. Keep the plants rather dry through the
winter, and prune and start early in March. After the young buds are nicely
started shift the small plants into larger pots ; but the large plants should be taken
out of the pots, the ball reduced, and repotted into the same sized pots again.
Water libera!ly when the plants are in full growth, and give them a weak dose of
manure-water once or twice a week. The plauts may be set out of doors through
the early part of the summer to make their growth, if the space under glass is
limited. ‘lhesecond season the young shoots must not be pinched but trained out
neatly, when they will continue to produce their beautiful spikes of flowers for a
long time. Several varieties do well as standards; grown that way they make
capital subjects for mixing with other plants.

Reav’s Stow Comzustion Borrer.—Amateur.—We can say much in praise
of this boiler. In economy of fuel, efficiency in action, aud simplicity of construc-
tion and management it is just the thing for a tenant at will, who cannot ecom-
fortably put up brickwork on substantial foundations. The only fault we can find
with it is that the outer jacket is thin. We had several examples of this inven-
tion under observation during the past winter, and in each case they have given
complete satisfaction: These boilers should always be under cover of some sort.

Ericas anp Eracris.—Imquirer,—Heaths and epacrises are not of the same

Jenuary.

32 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

genus, nor are they now regarded of the same order. Heaths belong to the order
Ericacee, and epacrises tothe order Epacridacee. Previous to 1810, however,
they were regarded as of the same order, but were separated by Brown, partly
because of the desirability of breaking up so vast an orderas Ericacew, and partly
because of a distinctive character—the true heaths. or ericas having anthers with
many cells, the true epacrises having anthers that are one-celled. It is an interest-
ing fact, too, that epacrises are natives of Australia and Polynesia, countries in
which scarcely any species of erica are found.

Miss R., Bath—The young man must have several years’ experience in pushing
nurseries before he can hope to carry on an establishment of his own with a fair
prospect of being successful. It would be preferable to work in two or three good
nurseries, and remain a year or two in each, before setting up on his own acevunt.
We cannot offer any advice in reference to the best locality, and as regards the
amount of capital required, itcan only be said it entirely depends upon the class of
business it is desired to establish.

Rocuza Fatcata.—Miss H.—This requires a sunny greenhouse, soil broken
bricks, sandy peat, and rotten dung, equal parts, plenty of water and full sun:
all the summer, and not a drop of water all winter.

TRADE CATALOGUES.

James Backuousz AnD Son, Yorx.—Catalogue of Hardy Trees and Shrubs.

James Cocker AND Sons, Sunnypark and Frocuatt Nurseries, ABER-
pEEN.— Descriptive Catalogue of Forest Trees, Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, Roses,
Fruit Trees and. Vines.

Dickson anD Roxpuyson, 23, Market Prace, MancuesteR.—Deseriptive and
Priced Catalogue of Roses.

James Dickson AND Sons, Newron Nuxrserres, AND 108, EastGaTe STREET,
CuestEK,— Catalogue of Forest Trees, Shrubs, and Evergreens.

Wa. Drummonp AND Sons, Stirtinc, anp. 58, Dawson Srreet, Dusiiw.—
Catalogue of Forest, Ornamental, and Fruit Trees, Roses and Shrubs.

James Houper, Crown Nursery, Reapine.—Retail Catalogue of New and
Choice Pelargoniums.

Ketway anp Son, Tue Royat Nurserizs, Lancrort, Somenset.— Twenty-
Sourth Annual Catalogue of Gladioli.

Tomas Ksnnepy anp Co., Dumrriss, Catalogue of Forest, Fruit, and
Ornamental Trees.

Tus Lawson Szep anp Nursery CompaNy, Lonpon anpD Epinpureu.—
Nursery Trade List for 1874-6.

LirtLE AND BanLantyNnE, KNowrEFIELp Nurseries, Cartisur.— Catalogue
of Forest and Ornamental Trees, and Deciduous and Evergreen Shrubs.

MitLER AND Srevers, 27, Post STREET, San Francisco, Catrrornta.— List
of Californian Tree, Shrub, and Flower Seeds.

Rosert Parker, Exotic Nursery, Toormnc, Surrey. — Catalogue of
Double-flowered Pyrsthrums and Miscellaneous Plants.

Wa. Porren, Sissincuurst, StapLenurst, Kent. — List of Roses, Fruit
Trees, Conifere, Evergreens and Shrubs.

Rosertson AND GaLLowAy. 157, Incram Srreer, Guascow, AND HELENs-
purGH.— Catalogue of Roses, Gladioli, and General Nursery Stock.

Ant. RoozEN anD Son, OVERVEEN, Haartem, Horuanp.—Autiumn List of
Glodisli.—List of Bulbous Begonias.

Tuomas Sampson, Preston Roap Nurserizs, Yreovin. — Catalogue of
Giadioli.

Smron Lovis, Broruers, Prantieres-Les-Metz, Lorrarne.— General Cataligue
and Price List.

J. M. THorsurn anv Co., 15, Jonn Srrextr, New York, U.S.A.— Whole-
sale List of American-grown Seeds for the European Trade.

Mavrics Younc, Mizrcrp Nurseries, NEAR Gopauminc. — Catalogue of
Conifere, Hardy Ornamental Trees and Shrubs, Rhododendrons, and £orest
Trees.

‘
S ‘
.
»
‘
“ F
~ .
+ '
,
: a)
‘ ’ c *
. .
.
‘
-. ‘
«
\ ¢
. :
. ‘ }
ia
li he
R '
: : Z °
‘ ~ -
> ¢
_ w - i
‘ ,
. «
- al .
’
5 ad ¥ ’ .

COMPARETTIA

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 33

MINIATURE ORCHIDS.

BY WILLIAM GEDNEY,
Head Gardener to J. OC. Day, Esq., Tottenham.
(With Coloured Illustration of Comparettia coccinea.)

eed INIATURE ORCHIDS, of the type represented by the

Wi] pretty little Comparettia coccinea, will not for a moment
compare in attractiveness with the lovely Odontoglots,
and the more showy Cattleyas, yet they are so interest-
ing as to be well deserving of the attention of those
who are fond of growing botanical curiosities. Some of them are
exceedingly beautiful, all are very interesting, and by reason
of their small growth, a comparatively large collection may be
cultivated in a structure of small size; especially are they de-
serving of the attention of those amateurs who have heated plant
cases indoors; for in one of these, about four feet in length and
thirty inches in width and in depth, a good collection could
be grown, because in addition to those placed on the floor of the
case, a large number may be suspended from the roof. Provided the
case occupies a light position, facilities exist for maintaining a
suitable temperature, and the plants receive the needful attention
in the way of watering and air-giving, there will be no great difficulty
in keeping them in good health. Of course, an ordinary house is the
most suitable, and where orchids are cultivated, the miniature grow-
ing kinds should be associated with them, either suspended from the
roof or placed upon the stage, according to their peculiarities. In
the collection under my charge are a large number of these little
gems, and when they are in bloom they receive their full share of
attention from the visitors. Indeed, not unfrequently, they receive
something more than their “full share,’ for some visitors will pass
large and beautifully-flowered specimens of the showy lelias and
dendrebiums to have a look at a modest-little restrepia, or one of
the more curious bolbophyllums. I should not, of course, recommend
their cultivation in roomy structures to the exclusion of the more
robust kinds, but as supplementary to the latter, and in little
houses and in cases where the space would not suffice for the pro-
duction of fully-developed specimens of the larger growing cattleyas,
dendrobiums, and vandas. ‘ :

As they vary somewhat in character and in cultural requirements,
it will be necessary in describing the several species most worthy of
general cultivation, to indicate the conditions under which they make
the most satisfactory growth; coming as they do from different quarters -
of the globe, some require a higher temperature than the others.
They also differ in the character or the growth, and some succeed
best on blocks of wood, whilst others thrive in pots filled with either
peat or moss, or a mixture of the two. The pots must be propor-
tionate to the size of the plant, perfectly clean, and be half filled
with crocks. The majority of those best suited for pot culture will

February. 3

34: THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

thrive in a mixture consisting of equal proportions of sphagnum
moss and fibrous peat, and unless some other preparation is recom-
mended, it may be interred that this mixture is the most suitable.
Rough andvather thick pieces of virgin cork will make most excel-
lent blocks upon which to put those which succeed most satisfac-
torily upon blocks suspended from the roof of the house. The
pieces of cork should be from six to eight inches in length, and about
four inches in width, and the plants must be fastened to them with
small copper wire; they will soon push out new roots, and take a
firm hold of the block. Provided the blocks are large enough and
in a sound state, the plants should not be disturbed. The majority
of those grown in pots, will require rather liberal supplies of water
during the growing season, and short supplies when at rest. Those
on blocks will require dipping in a vessel of water nearly every day
when growing freely, and less frequently at other times, according
to the season and the weather; in dull, damp weather in winter
onee a week will be quite often enough.

I will now proceed to give a brief description of those which
ean be the most strongly recommended for small collections. Unless
their cultivation on blocks, or in baskets, is recommended, it must
be assumed that they succeed best in pots.

Ane@rRmcuM crtratum.—A pretty, small growing species, pro-
ducing long pendulous spikes of pale yellow flowers, which are
closely set: on each side of the spike ; succeeds best on a block.

BarkertA SKrNNERt.—A beautiful species, producing good
spikes of rose-coloured flowers ; one of the finest of the miniature
species, should be grown in baskets.

BoLBoPHYLLUM BARBIGERUM.—A curious orchid; the flowers
greenish brown; the lip, deep brown and covered with hairs; it is
loosely attached, and when breathed upon, moves about in a most
comical manner.

B. sarrortum.—This is another interesting species with greenish
brown flowers; should be placed in the warm end of the house.

CarrneyaA WaALKERIANA.—A very distinct species, about four
inches in height, and producing rich, rose-coloured, and sweet
scented flowers at midwinter and midsummer; should be grown in
a basket in sphagnum.

CrruoretaLum Mepusa.—A very curious orchid, dwarf in
growth, and most desirable.

CompareErtia coccinza.—A beautiful species, similar in habit to
Sophronites grandiflora. The spikes are produced from the base of
the pseudo-bulbs, and bear from three to six orange and scarlet
flowers. It flowers in winter, and is especially valuable; should
be grown on a block with sphagnum fixed round it for the plants to

“root into. It requires a liberal supply of water when growing
freely, and to be kept rather moist when at rest.

C. rancara.—A pretty species, similar to the preceding, and
bearing crimson flowers.

DENDROBIUM AGGREGATUM MAsUS.—A pretty species, attaining a
gee of four inches, and producing short spikes of bright yellow

owers.

=

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. Bs)

D. Jenxrnsi1.—A close growing species, not exceeding two
inches in height, bearing rather large yellow flowers; should be
grown on a block suspended from the roof.

DENDROCHILUM FILIrormu.—A neat growing orchid, usually
attaining a height of six inches. The small yellowish flowers are
produced in summer in long spikes, and when they are of the same
i a as the foliage, droop over in the most graceful manner pos-
sible.

D. aLuMaceum.—Similar to the preceding, but with whitish
sweet-scented flowers, which are produced in spring.

EPIPHORA PUBESCENS.—A neat growing species. The flowers are
yellow spotted with brown, very fragrant, produced in long spikes,
and last a considerable time in perfection.

Goopyera piscotor.—A dwarf species, with velvety leaves, pro-
ducing during the winter neat spikes of white flowers. Should be
potted in peat, leaf-mould, and sand.

IoNopsIs PANICULATA.—A pretty species, with rose and white
flowers. Should be placed at the cool end of the house, and be
grown on a block to which a little sphagnum has been fixed.

MAspEVALLIA coccinna.—A neat grower,with bright red flowers.

M. ivrracra.—A pretty species of small growth, the flowers pale
yellow stained with purple.

M.rovarensis.— A dwarf-growing species,with pure white flowers,
which are borne just above the foliage, distinct and desirable. All
the Masdevallias should be grown in pots in a cool house.

Nanopes Mepus#.—A very singular orchid of low growth; the
flowers are borne in pairs, and are light green and maroon.

Oncipium CHEIROPHORUM.—A small-growing species, producing,
during the winter season, a large number of dense spikes of rich
yellow flowers.

O. cucuLLaTum.—Small in growth and exceedingly beautiful ;
flowers rose and purple.

O. putcuELLUM.—Neat species, bearing white flowers. Should
be grown on a block.

RESTREPIA ANTENNIFERA—An interesting orchid, with yellow and
brownish-red flowers, which are freely produced.

R.nrecans.—A neat species, similar in character to the preceding.

Sopuronites cerNuA.—A neat species, with pale red flowers.

S. coccrnna.—A lovely species, with bright scarlet flowers.

S. cranpirnora.—A fine species, with large brilliant crimson-
scarlet flowers.

S. vioracra.—A beautiful species, resembling the preceding in
growth; but bearing violet-coloured flowers. All the Sophronites
shonld be grown on blocks suspended from the roofs, and receive
moderate supplies of water throughout the year.

Tun Carter Cur, value fifty guineas, with other prizes offered by the same
firm for the best collections of vegetables, will be competed for at South Ken-
sington on the 7th of July.

February.

36 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

CULTIVATION OF POINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA,
BY ROBERT OUBRIDGE,
Church Walk Nursery, Stoke Newington, N.

meme OINSETTIA Pulcherrima is so thoroughly valuable for
| decorations during the festivities of the New Year, that
every amateur who has the convenience of a stove
should grow a few plants. It may not at first sight ap-
pear to be well adapted to the requirements of amateurs,
but it is quite as much so as any other winter-flowering plant that
could be named. It is wonderfully effective when associated with
the other plants in the stove, or with groups of palms, ferns, and fine
foliage plants, which are occasionally arranged in the indoor apart-
ments. Its grand crowns of crimson bracts show to wonderful
advantage when under the influence of artificial light; and the
bracts can be most advantageously employed in the dressing of
epergnes or vases. There are not many readers of the FLorat
Wokrtp who have not seen Poinsettias at some time or other, and I
shall not, therefore, occupy much space in describing them. They
bear, it may be observed, large heads of bracts of the most brilliant
crimson at the end of the shoots ; and these heads range from four
to twelve inches in diameter, according to the strength of the plants.
The smallest sized heads are not large enough to make much of a
display, unless the plants are trained in the form of bushes, and
then their number compensates to a certain extent for their want of
size. But the amateur who can assure heads ranging from six to
eight inches across, may rest content, for they will be quite large
enough for producing a decisive effect.

The Poinsettia is grown largely in the Church Walk Nursery
for the London markets; and this season we had considerably over
two thousand plants. In the management of so large a stock, we
are bound to avoid all unnecessary work, and have consequently
deviated somewhat from the system which prevails in private gar-
dens. The case of the amateur and market-grower is much the
same in the cultivation of plants of which a comparatively large
stock is required; both are of necessity compelled to adopt the
easiest and the most simple system possible. The way in which our
stock of Poinsettias is grown is simple enough to be readily under-
stood, and there is certainly nothing about it that cannot be carried
out by an amateur cultivator who is fortunate enough to possess a
stove in which to place them during the winter season. It may be
said that the present moment is most favourable for purchasing a
few plants, provided they be protected from frost and cold on their
way home. There will not be much difference in the price that
will have to be paid now and that which will be required in the
spring; but from a plant that is now nicely established, several
plants may be obtained. Those raised from cuttings struck at
home will, in all probability, be more thrifty than those purchased
in a small state. Until the freshness and beauty of the bracts are

_—————— ———

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 37

gone, the only attention required will be to supply them with water.
When they go out of bloom, the supply of water must be materially
reduced. They should also be placed in a cool part of the stove to
insure their having a thorough rest. They are frequently packed
away under the stages, but it is not a good practice to put them
there, especially as they may be placed out of sight behind other
tall plants.

There are two good ways of propagating Poinsettias ; one is by
means of eyes prepared in much the same manner as the eyes of
grape vines, and the other by cuttings. The latter is decidedly the
best for amateurs, because of the danger of the eyes decaying. We
have no difficulty with them, but then we are accustomed to the
work, and know exactly what to do and what to avoid, and I am
anxious that the amateur should not undertake anything of which
there is good grounds for believing that he will not be able to carry
out. I will therefore say nothing about the striking of eyes, but will
proceed to deal with the propagation by cuttings. This work should
commence in Apri!, and to insure a supply of cuttings the old plants
must be started into growth bythe end of February or the beginning
of March. The soft tops may be removed when the plants are at
rest, but no further pruning will be required. Placed in a warm
corner of the stove, and supplied moderately with water, they will
soon commence to make new growth. Cuttings which have
become rather firm strike most readily ; shoots of three or four joints
each are the best, and, if taken off with the thinnest slice possible,
there will not be much danger of their damping off. They will
soon strike in a brisk heat, and if a hotbed has been made up for
cucumbers, partly plunge the cutting-pots in the bed, otherwise let
them have a warm corner in the stove.

They must have no check from the first, and if plants with single
stems are required put the cuttings singly into “ thumbs,” and shift
them on until they are put into six-inch pots. Large specimens
may be obtained without the labour of training, by putting four or
five cuttings into three-inch pots, and then repotting them as more
root space 1s required, until they are put into eight-inch pots. They
must be shifted on as fast as they fill the pots with roots, until they
receive their final shift, because allowing them to become pot-bound
in the earliest stages of growth is most hurtful to them. A nice
moist atmosphere and plenty of moisture at the roots is most essen-
tial to success, and it may be well to mention also that if they suffer
much from dryness at the root, alarge portion of the leaves will fall
off. They do not require much air excepting during the hottest
summer, and the pit or house in which they are placed must be ven-
tilated freely, for they require no shade, and if exposed fully to
brilliant sunshine with but little air, some of the leaves ,will in all
probability bescorched. Cold draughts are most injurious, especially
during the early part of the season. They will bear a high tempera-
ture without injury, but during the summer season they require very
little artificial heat, as sufficient warmth can be provided for them by
a careful storage of the sun’s heat, by shutting up early in the after-
noon. As there is a considerable risk of their being drawn up when

Fabruary.

38 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

grown with the general collection in the stove,it is an excellent plan to
place them in a small pit with subjects requiring similar management.

The compost in which we have found them to thrive the most
gatisfactorily is prepared by well mixing together equal parts of turfy
loam, fibrous peat, leaf-mould, and silver sand. If the loam is mellow,
fibrous, and silky, the peat may be dispensed with, and a smaller pro-
portion of sand used. The simplest way is to allow the plants to
grow to their full height, for they require no stopping, and flower as
they please. They are then gorgeous in the extreme, and those who
have grown them, so that their bracts are large, and the leaves of a
deep rich green, may well feel proud.

The plants may be grown a second year, and the proper course
is to prune them rather low early in the spring, and when the shoots
are abont two inches in length to shake them out and repot, using
fresh soil. The shoots will require tying out a little to ensure the
full development of the leaves, and dwarf specimens may be had by
twisting the shoots round three or four stakes inserted in the pot,
sometime in August. They should be allowed to grow naturally
afterwards. Some practice is needful before much success can be
expected in training Poinsettias, and I should recommend amateurs
to be in no hurry to attempt it.

GERANIUMS FOR EVERYBODY.
BY WILLIAM COLE,
Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex, W.

98) 1' is yet too early to buy or commence the work of propa-
gating geraniums, whether for the flower garden or the
conservatory, but these matters will soon have to be
thought about, and in the meanwhile a few critical
remarks on the varieties which should be grown by
everyone, Will perhaps be useful to those who will find it necessary,
during the forthcoming season, to increase their stock either by pro-
pagation or purchase. ‘“ Everybody’s geraniums ”’ are those varieties
which, by reason of their floriferous character, neat habit, and
adaptability to all soils and situations, are as well suited for the
garden of the humble amateur as they are for the garden of the
wealthiest nobleman. ‘These varieties are not so plentiful as it may
at first sight appear, for of the five or six hundred found in the
catalogues, there are not perhaps more than twenty sorts that are
admissible in a selection prepared with a view to its being adapted
to the requirements of all classes. In cases where the amateur has
plenty of space, and takes an especial interest in zonal geraniums,
he may of course select according to his fancy, but in other instances
where it is desired to produce a good display of bloom with as little
trouble as possible, I should strongly recommend the undermentioned
as being preferable to all others.

Beppine VaRrterres—First in the list of bedders, stands Veswvius,
which has now found its way into the majority of gardens. It has a

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 39

neat compact habit, produces good trusses of nicely-formed flowers,
and the colour is a very bright scarlet, although a few shades less
rich than some few varieties that could be mentioned. It blooms
freely and continuously, and it resists the effects of a little rough
weather, better than the majority of varieties. This may be
considered the best of all the scarlets for bedding. For a deep
crimson take Crimson King, which is rather more robust than the
preceding, but it produces a profusion of fine trusses of deep crim-
son flowers. The best of the light red varieties is Lucius, which is
rather robust, and well adapted for back rows and the centre of large
beds. The trusses are usually very large, and the colour a light orange
red. Warrior is another strong grower; andis specially adapted for dry
sandy soils: the trusses are large, and the colour a bright fiery scarlet.
Amongst white varieties, White Clipper is unquestionably the best for
general purposes, but as it is comparatively new, it commands a rather
higher price than some of the most popular of the older kinds.
White Wonder still remains one of the best of the older kinds, none
of which, it may be said, are as good as could be wished. As
regards pink varieties, Clespatra may be safely put down as the best;
it has the neat habit and free-flowering qualities of Christine, is
richer in colour and produces very few seeds. Mrs. Haliburton is
also in the way of Christine, but brighter in colour and in every way
better. There is now no lack of good pink bedders, but these are
indispensable, and should be grown by every one.

Several of the nosegays are quite invaluable. Bonfire is the first
to claim attention, for it surpasses in richness of effect Stella, Waltham
Seedling, and all the others of that class, whilst it is equal to the best
of them in adaptability to all soils and situations. ‘The trusses are
of great size, and the flowers of a rich crimson scarlet.

‘Anna Pfitzer is rather dwarf, very neat and compact, and pro-
duces continuously a profusion of flower trusses of the most bril-
liant orange scarlet. It is unquestionably the best of the colour,
which by the way is very telling. The varieties with purple-crimson
flowers, are mostly of robust habit, and the best of them is Lady
Kirkland, which is well adapted for large beds or back rows. The
richest pink in the section is Mrs. Holden, a superb variety of medium
growth, and wonderfully free flowering. Hibberd’s Feast of Roses is
the best of the pinks for large beds and borders. Ivose Bradwardine
is also a valuable variety, with neat trusses of warm rose-pink flowers.
Violet Hiil Nosegay is perhaps the best of the nosegays as regards
habit, and is very free flowering ; but the flowers are of a dark salmon
red colour, and it is, therefore, less effective than the scarlet varieties.

ConsERvATORY VARIETIES are those which have flowers of good
form and neat habit. It is important to select varieties that have
flowers of better quality than those grown in the flower-garden, and
bloom freely for a very considerable period. Some varieties produce
a grand display of flowers for a short time and then go out of bloom,
and are of very little service during the remaining part of the season.
These are of very little use for the conservatory, unless a reserve
stock is maintained, from which to renew them as they go out of
bloom. Arago, Corsair, Harry King, and Richard Headly, are four

February. l

40 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

grand varieties with scarlet flowers. Janthe and Heartsease are the
best of those with bluish-purple flowers; Master Christine, Mrs.
Musters, and Mrs. Fytche, three of the most useful pinks. Of those
with crimson flowers, General Outram and Wellington are perhaps
the best. The most useful salmon-coloured varieties are President
Thiers and Gloire de Corbeny ; and the best of those with white flowers
White Wonder and The Bride. The best of the painted flowers are
unquestionably Alice Spencer and Beau Villageois. The three best
varieties for winter flowers are Veswvius, Master Christine, and
White Clipper, as they bloom very freely during winter with very
little preparation.

MR. LAXTON’S NEW PEAS.

eeypPmR. LAXTON, of Stamford, has entrusted to Messrs.

A ¥#}/ Hurst and Son, of Leadenhall Street, a series of new
varieties of peas, which merit the attention of the cul-
tivators of the most esteemed of garden vegetables.
z ~ The aim of Mr. Laxton, in his labours as a cross
breeder, appears to be to insure the production, by dwarf plants,

UNIQUE.

of peas of the finest quality, such as we have hitherto obtained only
from the tallest growers. Dr. Maclean, probably, was actuated by a
similar intention, for he certainly secured some grand varieties
characterized by robustness, productiveness, fine quality, and quite

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 41,

moderate growth. Mr. Laxton’s successes promise to insure for
him as high a rank in this useful department of horticulture as
that attained by his distinguished predecessor, and we have no
doubt he will go far beyond the point at which the hero of Col-
chester closed his labours. His William I., Omega, and Popular
are invaluable: the first being the earliest green marrow out ; the
second the very best late pea; and the third one of the most prolific,
and withal of the finest quality. The new varieties now offered for

DR. HOGG

the first time have been submitted to the tests appointed for such
things in the public interest, and have been certificated by the Fruit
Committee, and strongly recommended. Having seen samples, and
having grown nearly all Mr. Laxton’s varieties from seed supplied
by him, we are enabled to recommend the new varieties as worthy
the immediate attention of our readers.

Unique is a dwarf pea, requiring no support. The pods are
produced in great abundance, as early as Sangster’s No. 1, but it is
a true green marrow, the pods long, deep green, and well filled with
peas of large size, that are of the finest quality when served on the

table.
_. February

y

42 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Dr. Hogg is a very early green wrinkled marrow, coring in
some days before Sangster’s Np. 1. The growth is robust and
leafy, rising three feet. The crop is heavy, the pods of a fine deep-
green colour, well filled, and the peas of the finest quality.

Supplanter is the result of a cross between Veitch’s Perfection
and Little Gem, combining the qualities of both, and being charac-
terized by a particularly fine appearance. The plant is very vigorous,
rising three feet. The pods sre produced in pairs, they are large

SUPPLANTER.

and broad, and well filled with large peas. This is one of the finest
exhibition peas we have.

Connoisseur is a late wrinkled pea, raised from Ne Plus Ultra;
the plant rises six feet, and produces abundantly for a considerable
length of time handsome peas of a fine green colour. In deep
strong soil this will be found a most valuabie late pea.

The best early pea for all purposes is Laaton’s Vo. 1, sent out
last year. It is a blue wrinkled marrow, coming in with the first
earlies, the plant rising only three feet, or less.

Tue Royat Boranro Socrety has issued the schedule of prizes offered for
competition at the summer exhibitions to be held in its gardens, Regent’s Park,
on Wednesdays, May 26, June 16, and June 30. ‘The exhibitions on the two first-
mentioned dates will comprise specimens of stove and greenhouse plants, roses,
orchids, heaths, pelargoniums, ferns, and fine-foliage plants. The third exhibition
will be devoted to cut flowers and fruit.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 43

HAND AND BUTTON-HOLE BOUQUETS.
BY MISS A, HASSARD, ST. RONAN’S, UPPER NORWOOD.

HAND BOUQUETS.

sa) OM time to time I have often written in these pages on
| the subject of floral decorations, but never on that
branch which I now intend to treat of, namely,
Hand and Button-hole Bouquets. Therefore, a few
hints as to their construction may prove interesting.
There is no portion of floral decorations which requires more skill,
neatness, and lightness of touch, and exhibits more satisfactorily the
good taste of the arranger, than either of these styles of bouquets. In
the knowledge of their construction there are many advantages.
Suppose a lady be on a visit to friends in the country, and invited
to a ball, she will wish to be possessed of a handsome bouquet ; and
though there may be many plants from which choice flowers can be
cut, after all, if she does not know how to mount and arrange them,
they are comparatively useless. True, some of my readers may ex-
claim, “ Of course the gardener could make up a nice bouquet ;”
but I am not so sure of that; it does not hold good always that
because a man is a good plant grower, he needs must be a good
arranger of flowers in a cut state. If this were always the case,
there would be no work for the girls in the florists’ shops, as it
would be cheaper for the florist to buy them ready made, than pay
others for making them. Enough of this, however. It suffices to
say, should occasion occur, it is pleasant to be able to make a
bouquet, and the knowledge of how to do so is not a heavy burden
to carry, though it may not require to be constantly employed.

An experienced bouquet-maker could make four large handsome
hand bouquets with the same amount of flowers that an ordinary
amateur would require to employ in the construction of one. The
bouquet maker would separate all the geranium pips, and such like,
and mount them singly, whereas the amateur would just arrange
them in the truss on their own stem as cut. Though it may appear
that they would soon fade when subjected to the former, that is to say,
the dividing process, nevertheless, they really last very much longer,
as each is mounted with wet moss, which tends to keep them fresh.
There are many short-stemmed flowers, such as azaleas, which must
be mounted on artificial stems, as they have not any of their own
long enough without cutting the plant back very hard. As a substi-
tute for their own stems, what are termed “stub wires” are em-
ployed; and here I may mention the different kinds, namely,
“stubs,” ‘piercing”—two sizes of the latter—and “binding,” or
‘veel wire.’ The former two are sold in bundles cut in lengths,
and the latter by the reel. I always purchase my bouquet wires
at Hooper’s, in The Arcade, Covent Garden Market. I shall not
here enter into the different modes of mounting each flower, as
space would not permit of my enumerating half the number; but

February.

44 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

let it suffice for me to say the best manner of learning this art is to
purchase a good specimen of a hand and button-hole bouquet at
some first-class florist’s, take it to pieces, and see how each bloom is
mounted. Though there may not be very many different flowers in
the bouquet, you can easily see how the same mounting which suits
this bloom would be equally adapted to that, and so on, as the case
mav he.

As a rule, all hand bouquets have their centre formed of some
large-sized flower, such as a camellia, eucharis, gardenia, etc., and
then the other portions of the bouquet are composed of such flowers
as roses, violets, azaleas, pelargoniums, stephanotis, or whatever else
may be obtainable. Some admire bouquets mounted in patterns
such as bands of distinct colours, or a coloured cross on a white
ground, while others prefer them simply mixed. But this is quite a
matter of taste. I shall give descriptions of some I have myself
made, and which were successful in taking prizes at the Crystal
Palace, and exhibitions of the Royal Botanic Society. Some were
brides’ bouquets, others for daylight purposes, and some for balls or
the opera. In the latter case, they had to be made of colours which
would endure subjection to artificial light. I shall first take, for
example, the bride’s bouquet, to which was awarded the silver
medal at the Regent’s Park show. The centre was composed of a
very large-sized gardenia bloom, while round it was a ring formed of
the common white woodruff, then came stephanotis, jasmine, azalea,
etc., four blooms of Eucharis amazonia being also placed so as to form
quarters, while the whole was dotted over with blooms of lily of the
valley and white campanula, so placed that they stood up well above
the other flowers, and tended to give a light look, which should
always be aimed at in this style of arrangements. Through these,
and above the whole, were fronds of Adiantum cuneatum, a fringe of
which was also formed round the outer edge, the whole being
finished off with a handsome paper (with white lace round the edge),
and tied with a white satin ribbon bow, and long ends.

The ball bouquet, for which I was also awarded a medal at the
same exhibition, was made of scarlet and white flowers in the form
of a scarlet cross on a white ground, a bloom of eucharis being in
the centre of the cross, and also forming the centre of the bouquet.
The cross was formed of single pips, or flowers of a bright scarlet
geranium, and the quarters of stephanotis, gardenias, white carna-
tions, rose-buds, woodruff, and lily of the valley, with plenty of
fronds of light maiden-hair fern distributed through the whole and
round the outer edge; it was finished off, in regard to the paper, in
much the same style as the bride’s, only one end of ribbon was
scarlet, in place of both being white.

That for which I was awarded a prize at the Crystal Palace was
for morning use, such as a wedding, ete. It was arranged also in
the form of a cross; only in place of the cross being formed of
scarlet geranium pips, it was made of large purple pansies of a rich
shade. In the centre was a white camellia, and the four quarters
were made of stephanotis, azalea, geranium, gardenia, etc., and in
the centre of each quarter of white was a tuft of blue forget-me-

—=—-_ ~ w«

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. A5

nots. Over the whole was interspersed spikes of lily of the valley
and fronds of maiden-hair fern, plenty of the latter being put
round the outer edge. It was finished off with a good paper, and
tied with white ribbon.

I made a bouquet last season of much the same flowers, save in
place of the purple pansies and blue forget-me-nots, I employed a
purple or rather mauve-shaded cineraria, and blooms of dendro-
bium nobile, and through the lily of the valley placed mauve cycla-
men. [t was not arranged in any set form, but the orchids were
mounted to stand up above the other flowers amongst the lily of
the valley, cyclamen, and maiden-hair fern. Round the edge were
fronds of the latter, also those of Pteris serrulata; it was tied with
ribbon, one end white, the other being mauve of corded silk. The
paper was a handsome one, but with no lace attached.

In conelusion, I shall describe one I saw lately exhibited in a
florist’s window in Covent Garden Market, and I remarked at the
time that it was very elegant. The following flowers were employed
in its construction : gardenias, bouvardias, camellias, and, in the way
of colour, yellow rose-buds (Marechal Niel), and little bunches of a
bright blue nemophila. It was one of the most charming arrange-
ments I have ever seen.

BUTLON-HOLE BOUQUET AND COAT FLOWERS.

Every one knows the difference between a button-hole bouquet
and a coat flower is, that the bouquet consists of two or three
varieties, a8 the case may be, while a coat flower should be only a
single bloom, associated with some fern or other foliage. The
prettiest coat flowers are a rose-bud, gardenia, orchid, camellia, and
such like. These should, as a rule, always have plenty of fern
fronds associated with them. ‘he same flowers may be employed
in bouquets with the addition of such as bouvardias, pelargonium
pips, heaths, forget-me-nots, and the hundred-and-one other varieties
suitable for this purpose, which it would be impossible for me here
to enumerate. A foundation, or back to each bouquet, should be
formed of a camellia leaf, or any similar leaf of strong texture,
which keeps the whole arrangement firm and in its place. Bouquets
should be made of a pointed form, the point being tormed by means
of such a flower as a spike of lily of the valley, heath, ete. The
mounting of flowers with wire for button-hole bouquets is similar to
those for the hand, save that so many stubs are not employed. But
any one who can mount and make up a good hand bouquet need
not fear a button-hole one, though, of the two, the latter is by far
the most difficult.

A Dovrxe Graprotvs, raised by M. Bernard Nantais, and exhibitel before the
Horticultural Soziety of the Haute-Garonne, is described as highly ornamental.
For some time past the tendency of the flower to doubling has been apparent to
cultivators, and it is probable that we shall, in course of time, have a series of
double yarieties, possessing considerable value for garden decoration.

February.

46 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

SHORT NOTES ON USEFUL VEGETABLES.

am Hi kitchen garden will, for some time to come, claim a

‘| considerable share of the attention of the amateur, and
a few hints on the cultivation of the more important
vegetable crops will, perhaps, be of considerable service

ao a to many readers of the Frorat Wortp. As the culti-
vation of all the vegetables has been dealt with at considerable
length in past issues, it is now proposed to allude to those points
only which are of the most importance.

Brussets Sprours.—This is, perhaps, one of the most popular,
as it is one of the most valuable, of winter vegetables. It is hardy,
elegant in appearance, delicious in flavour, and may be had in per-
fection for quite four months. To insure a good crop of sprouts
the plants must be grown in rich soil, and have a rather long season
of growth. The seed should be sown early in March on a sheltered
border, and, as soon as the plants are large enough, commence to
plant out the strongest, two feet apart, on a piece of ground that
has been well manured and stirred deeply. Continue to plant out
until the space allotted is filled, and be careful to well water them
until they are well established. By planting at intervals and
selecting the strongest each time, overcrowding is prevented, and a
supply ofa more satisfactory character than would otherwise be the
case will be secured during the winter. A second sowing may be made
in April if the stock of plants is short, otherwise it will not be needful,
as the best crop is obtained from the March sowing. Serymger’s
Giant is, perhaps, the best stock of this vegetable in general cultivation.

Broap Brans.—One of the main essentials to success in the
enltivation of these vegetables is to sow in deeply-stirred and well-
manured ground. To maintain a succession from the earliest moment
possible, sow early in February one or two of the earliest sorts, and
towards the end of the month make a good sowing of a main crop
variety, and continue sowing, at intervals of a fortnight, until the
end of April. Asa rule, it will suffice in small gardens to sow an
early sort in the first week in February, and to make sowings of a
main crop variety at the beginning and end of March. The dwarf
sorts will require a space of fifteen or eighteen inches between the
rows, and the tall sorts from twenty-four to thirty inches ; and in
each case the seed to be sown thinly in two rows. The hardiest
sorts for sowing early are the Larly Longpod and Mazagan, and the
best for main crops are Green Windsor, Taylor’s Broad Windsor,
and Minster Giant Lengpod. Beck's Green Gem is a very excellent
and productive dwarf sort, well adapted for small gardens.

BorecouE, oR Kate.—There is’ not, perhaps, a more thoroughly
useful class of vegetables grown than the borecoles, or kales, as they
are most generally designated. They are of especial value for their
hardiness, and the amateur may sow and plant with the full assurance
of obtaining a good supply of tender greens during the winter and
the spring. As a long season of growth is of considerable importance,
sow on a warm border early in March, and commence to plant out
immediately the plants are large enough. Draw from the seed-bed

EE — —

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 47

the strongest first, and continue to plant at intervals, as they become
strong enough, until a sufficient breadth has been planted. The
rows should be from two and a half to three feet apart, and the
plants from two to two and a half feet apart in the rows, according
to the character of the soi]. Those planted in rich soil will require
the greater space. ‘The finest crops are obtained {rom quarters that
have been liberally manured and dug deeply, but fair crops may be
had from any ordinary soils. Even in the smallest gardens several sorts
should be grown. The best are the Cottager’s Kale, remarkable for
its hardiness, the large crop of sprouts produced in the spring, and
its delicate flavour; Chow de Milan,a delicious vegetable, but rather
tender in constitution ; Jerusalem Green Curled, hardy and produc-
tive; and the Tall and Dwarf Scotch Kales, which are well known
for their hardiness, productiveness, and high quality. The dwarf
form is the most suitable of the two for small gardens.

Corn Satap, or, Lamb’s Lettuce, may be most successfully grown
in any ordinary garden soil, provided it is not heavy. To insure a
successional supply throughout the year, make three sowings—the
first in February, the second early in August, and the third in
September. Sow in drills six inches apart, and thin the plants to
three inches apart iu the rows. A rather dry and sheltered border
should be selected for the last sowing.

CavnirLowrr.—A liberal supply of cauliflowers of the finest
quality is a prime necessity in all good gardens, and as few vege-
tables pay better for liberal cultivation, the ground should be well
prepared, and the plants have careful attention during the earlier
stages of growth. To maintain a supply from the early part of the
summer, sow in boxes in February and March, and place in gentle
heat ; in April, May, and June sow in beds in the open; and in'August
or September in a bed out-of-doors, to furnish a stock of plants tor
wintering in frames. Those raised in heat must be pricked off on
a bed of light rich soil, made up in a cold frame, and be planted
out when they have acquired sufficient strength to admit of its being
done with safety. Those from the spring sowing out-of-doors
should be planted direct from the seed-bed. In both cases they
should be planted in a quarter that has had a liberal dressing of
manure in the winter previous, or at least has been stirred to a depth
of not less than twelve inches. The soil cannot well be too rich for
this vegetable, although good heads may be produced in any good
garden soil. Those raised in the autumn should be planted, towards
the end of October, in a cold frame or under hand-glasses. Medium-
sized p!ants are the best for keeping through the winter under glass.
They should be put four inches apart, the frame be ventilated freely
(excepting during wet or frosty weather), and the soil maintained
in a nice moist state. Towards the end of March or early in April,
plant out on a warm border, and cover with flower-pots or bell-
glasses in case of sharp frosts. In all cases a space of thirty inches
should be allowed each way between the plants, to afford them
sufficient space for their proper development. The most useful sort
for sowing in spring under glass is the Walcheren; for spring
sowing out-of-doors, Vettch’s Autumn Giant; and for sowing in

Febraary,

48 TUE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

autumn to keep through the winter, Harly London White or
Walcheren.

CabsaGe.—This is, perhaps, one of the most profitable vegetables
that could be grown in small gardens, and well deserves generous
cultivation. In seasons of scarcity, a sowing may with advantage be
made in boxes placed in heat, to secure a supply at the earliest
moment possible; but under ordinary circumstances, the plants
should be raised in the open ground. For the late summer and
autumn supply, sow in March and April; and for the spring and
early summer supply, sow towards the end of July. The spring-
sown plants must be put out at intervals, according as the plants
acquire sufficient strength and the ground is ready for them; and
those raised in July should be put out about the middle of September.
The distance at which they should be apart depends entirely upon
the sort, but, as a rule, the small sorts will require a space of twelve
inches ard the larger ones eighteen inches each way. As a quick
growth is essential in the production of tender hearts, well-tilled
ground should be selected for all the plantations of cabbage. Barr's
Dwarf and Hill’s Incomparable are two excellent cabbages of small
size for sowing in spring; Enfield Market and Wheeler’s Imperial
two of the best large sorts for sowing in spring for main crops; and
for sowing iu autumn, to stand over the winter, Linfield Market and
Nonpareil Improved are the most useful, because of their haruiness
and good quality.

CucumsBrr.—To maintain a supply throughout the year requires
well-constructed houses and much skill, but the production cf a supply
from early summer until late autumn is a comparatively easy task.
For the summer crop sow the seed in March, and when the plants
are well above the surface, pot them off separately, and place near
the glass to afford them an opportunity of making a stocky growth.
In the meanwhile prepare a brisk hotbed, and when all danger from
over-heating is past, put a barrowful of soil in the centre of each
light, allow it time to be warmed through, and then put one plant
to each hill of soil. Shade when newly-planted, but as they become
well established, dispense with shading materials, and ventilate
sufficiently to prevent scorching. Syringe once or twice a-day,
according to the weather, water liberally, and close the ventilators
or lights rather early in the afternoon to husband all the sun-heat
possible. Stop at the fourth or fifth joint, train the shoots regu-
larly over the bed or trellis, and stop again when at from eighteen
inches or two feet in length, according to the space they have to
cover, and also nip off the points when the shoots reach the outside.
Apply fresh soil to the hillocks as fast as the roots come through,
and this must be done before the shoots have extended far, because
of the great risk of injuring them. The bed should, as a rule, be
made at two operations after the formation of the hillocks, and it
should consist of a mixture of good turfy loam, leaf-mould, and
manure. When cucumbers are grown in ordinary wooden frames
placed on a bed of fermenting materials, the heat may be maintained
during the greater part of the summer by means of linings of grass
mowings, which should be placed round the sides as they are brought

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 49

from the lawn. The best sorts for frame-culture are Blue Gown for
beauty, and Masters’ Prolific and Telegraph for usefulness. Cucum-
bers may be most successfully cultivated without artificial heat from
May to October in any of the houses and pits usually devoted during
the winter season to bedding plants.

Capsicums and Cur11Es.—The pungent little fruits of these
are so useful in the kitchen that a few plants should be grown in the
smallest garden. They require a comparatively long season of
growth to enable them to ripen their pods; therefore, sow in heat
about the middle of February, and when the young plants are about
two inches high, pot them off, use small sixties, and put two plants
in each ; shift, when established, into five-inch pots, and then transfer
to two sizes larger. Use arather light and rich soil, place in warm
position in the greenhouse and supply liberally with water. A
portion of the stock may be planted early in June at the foot of a
south wall, for the production of a supply of green pods for pickling.
The Small Cayenne, and Long Red Chilies, and the Long Red and
Long Yellow Capsicums are the most useful kinds.

Lerrucr.—Although the finest crops are obtained from well-
manured soil, it is proper to add that Lettuces of excellent quaiity
may be obtained from ordinary good soils, to which manure has not
been applied for several years. They will, however, well repay good
cultivation, and should, as far as practicable, be planted in soil that
has been recently manured, or is in good heart from the manure
applied for the previous crop. To produce a successional supply,
extending over the year, sow in boxes, and place in heat in February
and March; from the middle of the last-mentioned month until the
end of July, sow out of doors at intervals of three weeks, and again
in the middle of Augustand September. The plants raised in boxes
must be pricked off in a bed made up in a frame to strengthen
previous to planting out. The plants raised in beds out of doors
should be planted direct. From April to July the best crops will
be obtained by sowing thinly in rows in the open quarters, and then
thinning them out to the proper distance apart. The thinnings
may be planted out if needful, but as plants that have not been dis-
turbed stand the hot weather so much better than those which have
been transplanted, make a point of sowing sufficient seed to render
transplanting unnecessary. The plants fromthe twolastsowingsshould
be put in frames, under hand-glasses, or at the foot of south walls. On
dry soils lettuces will live through the winter without the protection
of glass, provided the winter is not severe ; but, as a matter of pre-
caution, a one or two-light frame should be filled with small plants
to put out on warm borders in the spring, to furnish the earliest
supply. The distance at-which lettuces should be planted will
depend upon the kinds, and the season of the year. The small
cabbage varieties should be six inches apart, and the large growing
cabbage and cos varieties a foot apart each way. A space of six
inches each way will suffice for any of the sorts planted early to
draw rather young. The best sorts for general purposes are for
early spring sowing, Hicks’s Hardy White Cos and Leyden White
Dutch Oabbage; for sowing out of doors from March to July, Paris

4

February,

50 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

White Cos, Holme Park Green Cos, and Broun Sugar Loaf Cos,
and All the Year Round Oabbage and Drumhead Cabbage; and for
sowing in autumn for winter and early spring use, Brown Bath
Cos, and Hammersmith Hardy Green Cabbage.

Pras.— Amongst the numerous crops grown in the kitchen
garden, there is none, perhaps, which will pay so well for thoroughly
good cultivation as the pea crop. The earliest sorts are not pro-
fitable, and amateurs with small gardens should only grow main
crop varieties. To secure a supply extending over the longest pos-
sible period, sow in February the first earlies in rows four feet apart
on a warm sloping border. The first week in March make a sowing
in rows eight feet apart of a main crop variety, and sow other good
sorts at intervals of a fortnight or three weeks, until the last week
in May. Sow again towards the end of June and the end of July
good breadths of one or more of the first earlies, with the chance of
obtaining a supply late in the autumn. The soil cannot be well too
rich, andif the tall main crop varieties are sown in trenches pre-
pared in much the same manner as for celery, but not quite so deep,
the produce will be materially increased. The tallest sorts are the
most productive, but the dwarf sorts, ranging from three to four
feet in height, possess the advantage of not requiring such
tall sticks. ‘The spaces between the peas may be cropped with
cabbage, lettuce, potatoes or spinach. Rows of the latter
should be sown between the early peas. The early sorts must
be sown rather thickly, but the others must be sown rather
thinly or they will smother each other. The best sorts for sowing
in February are First Crop and Easte’s Kentish Invicta. For sue-
cessional sowings for main crop, the best of those not exceeding
four feet in height are Champion of England, Wonderful, Princess
Royal, and Veitch’s Perfection, and the best of those from five to six
feet, Laaton’s Supreme, British Queen, and Ne Plus Ultra. For
sowing for the latest supplies the best are Advancer, Laxton’s Alpha,
and Tuber’s Perfection.

THE AMATEUR’S VINERY.—NO. 2

BY THOMAS TRUSSLER,
Nuseryman, etc, Edmonton, N.

=a,N the Frorat Wortp for January directions were given
#| for the construction of vineries, the formation of borders,
and planting the vines, and I now purpose offering a fow
hints on the management of the vines.

ia eiid To avoid repetition, we will suppose the amateur to
ane tphehh the vinery according to the instructions already given,
and the vines to be remaining unpruned. No attempt should be
made to crop the vines the first season, for it cannot be done with-
out seriously injuring them, and the produce is usually so very poor
as not to be worth having. The best course, in fact the only course

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 51

that can be recommended, is to prune those planted inside the house
to the first or second bud above the surface of the soil, and those
planted outside, to the second bud, from the point of their entering
the house. When they commence to grow, select the most promising
shoot on each vine, and rub all the others off, and train up the one
remaining in its proper position. The utmost care must be taken to
guard the remaining shoots from injury, because, if they are damaged
in any way, there will be a considerable loss of time. The pruning
must be done at once, to afford time for the wound to heal over
before the sap begins to move freely. No fire-heat will be required
for the first season, as the sun-heat will, if carefully husbanded,
afford sufficient warmth to insure a vigorous growth from the first.
To secure a stout base to the rod, stop it when it has reached about
half-way up the rafter, and then train the shoot, which will push
from the topmost bud, to take the lead again. The laterals, which
push lower down, should be stopped when about twelve inches in
length, with the exception of the smaller ones that do not appear
likely to exceed fifteen inches, as a somewhat free development of
the laterals will be of material assistance in increasing the thickness
of the lower part of the rod. The cane will require stopping again
when it reaches the top of the rafter; and the laterals, which push
from the second section, will require regulating in a similar manner
to those on the lower part. As the border will not be very full of
roots, moderate supplies of water will suffice to maintain the vines in a
flourishing state ; they must not, under any consideration, be allowed
to suffer from dryness at the roots, for if this happens, the growth
will be weak, and the foliage quickly become iafested with red spider.
A moderate degree of atmospheric humidity will be most favourable to
the production of stout rods, and, therefore, when the house is closed
in the afternoon, the vines and the walls should be syringed, and
the floor and walls sprinkled somewhat liberally. The syringing
must be followed up from the time the vines begin to grow until
the canes reach the top of the rafter and begin to assume a brownish
hue, when it must be discontinued. After a cold, dull day, sprink-
ling the floor will suffice ; and itwill perhaps be useful to intimate
that, if the syringe is plied vigorously in cold, sunless weather, and
no fire-heat employed, the speedy development of mildew will be
the result, and do much mischief to the vines. The vinery will
require ventilating rather liberally, and to guard against the foliage
being scorched, admit a little air just before the sun begins to shine
upon the roof, and increase the ventilation as the sun acquires
power. By opening the ventilators early, the foliage has a better
chance of becoming dry before the sun can act upon it. In warm,
genial weather, the ventilation must be abundant, especially towards
the end of the summer, when the growth of the canes will be nearly
completed. In the early part of the season, especially during the
months of March and April, the admission of air must be regulated
with care, to prevent cold currents injuring the tender foliage. After
the canes have attained their full size, the vinery should be left open
night and day, and continue open until Christmas, excepting during
a severe frost.
February,

52 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Previous to starting them for the second season’s growth, prune
the canes back to about nine inches below the joint, at which they
were stopped in the summer, and remove all the laterals close to the
main stem. After they are pruned, wash them with hot water and
soap, and secure them to the wires with strong bast or rather stout
cord. The weight of the vines, when in full growth the follow-
ing season, will be considerable, and unless the supports are strong,
there will be a risk of their giving way. They must not be tied
tightly, or as soon as the cane begins to swell, the ties will cut it,
and much injury be done to the vines in consequence. As a pre-
cautionary measure, the ties should be loose enough to afford space
for the rods, should they swell to double the size they are when
pruned. As they should not be forced the second year, they will
require no artificial heat to start them; but to afford them some
assistance to break strongly, the house must be kept rather close
until the shoots are six inches or so in length, and they should also
be syringed twice a day. After this stage, admit the air freely to
promote the production of a stout and firm growth. The ventilation
will require regulating in much the same manner as during the first
season. The topmost shoot must be trained up the rafter, and
stopped when it reaches the top of the house. The other shoots
will require training out horizontally, and to be stopped when about
fifteen inches in length. Fruit will be produced on nearly all the
laterals; but as over-cropping at this stage will be most injurious,
all but four of the most promising bunches on each vine should be
removed. The removal of the bunches may be deferred until after
the berries are set, without much injury to the vines ; but, as a rule,
there will not be much trouble in determining which of the bunches
are the best before they arrive at that stage. In cold, sunless
weather, a little artificial heat should be employed to prevent the
atmosphere becoming stagnant, but very little indeed will suffice to
accomplish the desired purpose. When the fire is burning during
the day, the ventilators at the apex should be opened, to secure a
complete change of air. The laterals should be nine inches apart,
and if the canes are very short jointed, remove those not required
when two or three inches in length, and, as far as practicable, pre-
serve the strongest.

HOW TO BEGIN BEE-KEEPING.

S=e9 11S is the best time in the whole year to begin bee-
Ai, keeping; but those who have resolved to begin, and are
not now prepared for action, may very well defer
operations until May or June. In the month of
February you may safely buy old stocks, for they
have passed the worst of the winter, and will from this time
improve. In May or June you may secure newly-hived swarms,
and, if that is your intention, you must arrange for purchasing them
some time in advance, that they may be delivered soon after they

Oi EE

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 53

are hived. Many amateurs would take to bee-keeping if they could
see their way clearly to the first start, but that appears to them
wrapped in mystery. If they think of building a bee-shed and
buying the bees, the question arises, What am I to do with them
then? I should like to answer that question at once, before we go
into practical matters. The best you can do with them is to leave
them alone. But you must admire them, or they will not thrive ;
you must visit them, watch them, take an interest in them; in a
word, you must become used to them, and they will become used
to you, and you and they will get along very well together. It is
the master’s eye that makes the horse fat; it is the bee-keeper’s
love that makes docile bees and heavy honeycombs, and gives a
suitable tune to the music of the morning. This is no dream. I
paid dearly for the knowledge of it. While I could pet my bees
they throve, and were a comfort to the household ; when travel and
care kept me much away from them they went to ruin, and were
not only a discomfort, but discreditable. As a preliminary advice,
then, I'say, if you are not likely to give the bees a little of your
time, and especially if you are not likely to be at hand for hiving a
swarm and for taking honey at the proper time, don’t begin bee-
keeping, for assuredly you will soon be sick and tired of the
business. “ They want a deal of shepherding,” said an old country-
man who knew all about it; and, in truth, the shepherding is the
chief joy of the apiary, and renders bee-keeping the most delightful
of all rural pursuits.

You have determined to begin, and you must settle where the
hives are to be placed. Now, let me warn the novice, that, if bees
are put “out of the way” because they shall not hurt anybody,
they will never prosper, and they will become so wild that you will
find them very troublesome to deal with. They ought to be in the
way. Or, to put the case differently, they ought to be in a position
to see human beings constantly ; and it is all the better if there is
a constant traffic in front of the hives, at a distance of a dozen
yards or so from them. Bees that see much of human society—if
only the garden boy trudging to and fro with the wheelbarrow—
become quite tame and gentle, so that you may take one off the
alighting-board, and imprison it in your hand for five minutes, and
it will not sting you; while bees that lead a lonely life, and never
see the human form divine, grow so savage that they can only be
approached by a courageous bee-keeper, clothed with protective
harness. There was never in the world a more successful apiary—
all things considered—than mine at Lordship Terrace, and that stood
within ten or twelve feet of a walk that was constantly traversed.
The bees had to fly over this walk on their way to the open country ;
and there never were bees more gentle and manageable, as hundreds
of friends can testify. That the proximity to traffic did not interfere
with their work, was made evident by the splendid boxes of white
honey I was enabled to exhibit, and of these reports have appeared
in the Fnoran Worip. The second item of advice can hardly be
mistaken. Find a place facing any point of the compass, except
due north, in a spot where there is a frequented walk or play-

Febraary.

54 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ground, or some other means of compelling the bees to see in front
of their hives human beings in motion frequently. Having thus
located them, they will become so tame that you may proceed to
practice Wildman’s tricks, and become a great bee conjuror.

Now we come to the bee-shed. It is not absolutely necessary,
but very desirable, for bees need shelter from rain, sun, and wind.
As regards elevation and ornament I shall say nothing. As regards
construction it should be roomy, dry, with a secure roof, and closed
with wood-work all round, unless in a very sheltered spot, in which
case it may be quite open, consisting of roof only, and supporting
uprights, with a shelf for the hives. A small bee-house becomes so
hot in summer that the combs melt, and the bees are seriously in-
jured by their falling. My bee-shed is open at the back only, the
front and ends are closed because of the winds that occur on three
sides. A very convenient way to provide for the escape of the
bees is to have an opening the whole length in front opposite the stand
on which the hives are placed, and over this opening to hang a board
considerably wider than the opening itself, and two inches or so dis-
tant from it. The bees will go out and return above and below
this board, the house will be thoroughly ventilated, and neither wind
nor rain will drive in upon the hives. In case I am not understood
I will re-state the case by the aid of adiagram. Let A A be the
front, and B the board covering the opening; ©, the stand on which
the hives are placed. To hang the board B is but carpenters’ work,
and its utility is 1 hope manifest.

A

Tux Hives next demand attention. You will probably desire
some fanciful things with much glass, and many ornaments about
them. Now Ihave nothing to say against fanciful hives for those
who understand them, but as a rule they are quite unsuited to be-
ginners. You want simple service, and the bees are very simple
creatures, as ready to work in a washing tub or plain peck measure
as in the mosi fantastic “home of industry,” with painted pinnacles
and peepshow windows ever held out to tempt the unwary. The

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 55

sort of hives to encourage will depend on your location. If you
dwell near a town you will do better with smallish than with largish
hives; if you dwell in a country rich in bee flowers, and known to be
favourable to the growth of honey, go in for large hives and storey-
fying boxes, and from the very first, have a reserve of empty hives,
and get them well painted and put away in a clean, dry place, ready
for use. Wood and straw are about of equal value, when small
hives are required ; but where money may be made by bees, there is
nothing like wood, and my favourite hives are the octagon Stewarton’s,
and the square Tegetmeier’s and Woodbury’s. By having everything
in readiness in good time you will not be flurried when a swarm
comes off, and you will not risk the less of a swarm through hiving
it into newly painted boxes. Not that the bees suffer through being
put into a newly-painted hive, if it is so far dry as not to stick to the
fingers. All that happens is;that, having hived them, you, of course,
leave them alone to settle down, and they, making discovery of the
newness of the paint, turn up their noses and jly away! Next day
your nice hive is empty, and must remain so until you get another
swarm.

These are the only advices that occur to me as needful, in reply
to a correspondent who asks for a little advice on the subject. If
he can buy a heavy stock, two or three years old, and have it home
at once, he may expect one or two swarms in June, and having hived
these into new hives, he will be fairly on the road to acquire experi-
ence, and realize the enjoyment of bee-keeping. But he must not
attempt to remove the bees and the comb out of the purchased hive
into a new one, for the endeavour will end in failure certainly, and
if clumsily undertaken may prove as dangerous to the operator as it
must be disastrous to the bees. To sum up, the best way to begin
bee-keeping is to begin humbly, not attempting over much, and by
constant watchfulness to do what is right at any time, while abstain-
ing from mere meddling, to grow into a knowledge of the ways of
bees, while winning their confidence and affections. iS:

A POTATO CATALOGUE.
“ Tet thé sky rain potatoes.”

emma HI NK of a potato catalogue! It strikes one as a joke,

AA but it’s a fact as sure as daylight. The enterprising
ese “tater dealer’ who provides this catalogue is my friend
ra lea) Mr. Richard Dean,seedsman, of Ealing, London, W. Any-
fie body who wants it, need only write and enclose address
and a halfpenny stamp, and a few hours afterwards the postman
will politely lay the catalogue on the parlour table. It contains
descriptions of fifty-five varieties of potatoes, and there is not a bad
one in the lot. This catalogue is entitled to a special note, in the
first place as a novelty, and in the second place as a very useful
guide to the grower of potatoes; for it is full of information, and

February

56 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

what it withholds is of no less advantage than what it offers us.
«What it withholds!” repeats the reader in surprise. Yes. The
varieties described are, in number, fifty-five only. I will undertake
to say, asa potato fancier of long experience, that it would be easier
to make a list of two hundred and fifty than of fifty-five. In pre-
paring such a catalogue as the one before us, the difficulty will be to
determine what to strike out, and the task demands knowledge, taste,
and moral courage. The work is well done, as a matter of course.
R. D. could not make a bad catalogue of potatoes if you bribed him
to try. Procure it, and judge for yourself.

Before I put the catalogue aside, I feel bound to select from it
the best six potatoes; that is to say, the best six in my opinion.
They are—Myatt’s Ashleaf, Beaconsfield, King of Potutoes (yellow
flesh), Waterloo Kidney, Late American Rose, and Riwton Pippin.

H.

FARMYARD AND STABLE MANURE.

BY MR. J. MITCHELL, MONTROSE.

qINTIL recently the chief, and in many cases the only fertilizer the farmer

sp) used was farm-yard manure ; and now that this is being to a certain
V2 extent superseded by artificial manures, there is just the danger that it
may be too much overlooked. Farm-yard manure has its proper place
in agriculture, and so has artificial manure. I propose, in the following
remarks, principally to treat the question of urine; its relative value to the solid
excrements, and the most effectual manner in which the urine can be economized.
Some agriculturalists hold exaggerated opinions as to the value of farm-yard
manure, others undervalue it, whilst some manufacturers and agents of artificial
manures only manifest their ignorance by treating farm-yard manure slightingly,
and decrying it, in season and out of season, on the absurd supposition that by doing
this they will induce the farmer to order more artificial manure than he otherwise
would. The only valuable ingredients in farm-yard manure are the urine and the
solid excrements. The other ingredients are simply straw, etc., which have little
or no value in themselves, and simply serve to absorb and keep together the urine
and solid excrements. The approximate value of the urine of the horse, cow, sheep,
and pig, is as follows: Horse, 30s.; cow, 20s.; sheep, 30s.; and pig 10s. per ton.
The approximate per-centage of ammonia contained in the urine of these animals
is: Horse, 1:6; cow, 0°93 sheep, 1:7; and pig, 0'4. The phosphates contained
are trifling, being about 1 per cent. in the horse and pig, about # per cent. in the
cow, and about 4 per cent. in the sheep. ‘The additional value of the urine of these
animals consists of a small per-centage of potash and soda-salts, etc. Comparing
these facts with the approximate composition and value of the solid excrements of
the same animals, we find that the solid excrements of the horse are worth 15s. per
ton; the cow, 10s.; the sheep, 25s.; and the pig 6s. ; or, in other words, the value
of urine is about double that of the solid excrements. In comparing their value,
however, it is only fair to say that the value of the solid excrement is principally
owing to its being saturated with the urine. Thus it is evident that if anything is
to be done in economizing the farm-yard manures, it must be the urine that is to be
considered first.

In considering this subject, a good deal of valuable information can be obtained
from the Chinese. We are often apt to consider these Celestials as little better
than savages ; it is, however. a well-known fact that they are much before us in
this matter, as in many others, and there is no doubt that we are the losers by thus
disparagingly treating them and their ideas, or rather ignoring them altogether
It is certain that they are now, and have been for hundreds of years, in many
respects very far advanced in the science of agriculture, and amongst them the

ha

~I

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 5

excrements, liquid and solid, treated and prepared in various ways, serve almost
entirely as their fertilizers. One writer says: ‘‘ Human urine is, if possible, more
husbanded by the Chinese than night soil for manure; every farm or patch of land
for cultivation has a tank, where all substances convertible into manure are care-
fully deposited, the whole made liquid by adding urine in the proportion required,
and invariably applied in that state. The business of collecting urine and night-
soil employs an immense number of persons, who deposit tubs in every house in
the cities for the reception of the urine of the inmates, which vessels are removed
daily with as much care as our farmers remove their honey from the hives.” It
may be roughly estimated that the average urine passed by a cattle beast daily is
about two gallons, so that in the course of a twelvemonth each cattle beast would
pass from three to four tons of urine, the value of which would be from £4 to £6;
and, in addition, a proportionate quantity and value of solid excrements, or in other
words, the total excrements, liquid and solid, obtained from a cattle beast in a year
would be worth from £8 to £10. Thus, supposing the case of a farmer with an
average stock of cattle during the year of 50 head, he would collect from 150 to
200 tons of urine per annum, showing a value of £200 to £300. Of course a very
large proportion of this would go direct to the soil during the time the cattle were upon
the grass ; still it is not over-estimating the value of that which can be collected,
taking into account the urine from the horses and other animals on the farm, to say
that, provided the whole urine could be collected, the quantity would represent a
value, say, of £100, or even more. Of course, as it is at present, nothing like
the whole of this is lost, a great part being absorbed in the court bedding. Tn
open courts a very large proportion is of necessity lost, being washed away by the
rain. In covered courts, however, there is also a large proportion lost by eva-
poration. Perhaps the most economical plan would be to have the covered courts
properly paved, with charnels conducting to a tank or reservoir where the urine
would collect. These tanks would, of course, then be emptied from time to time,
and applied to the soil as required.

Without going very minutely and at length into the details, it would be impos-
sible to give practical hints further upon this matter, but it would be well to state
that it would also bea great saving were the courts from time to time to be sprinkled
with vitriol. This could be done very simply by means of a common watering-pan.
The ammonia fumes caused by evaporation would thereby be fixed, and, as a matter
of course, the loss of the most valuable and important ingredient of the urine pre-
vented. The sprinkling of the courts with vitriol would also have a very beneficial
and important effect, as it would keep the courts much sweeter, and therefore tend
to preserve in better licalth the animals in the court. The vitriol would require to be
used only sparingly, and diluted with water before application. It may also be
worth while to state that the fumes arising from the manure in the courts have a
peculiar chemical action, which is injurious to the stone and lime, and in course of
time would destroy them. The sprinkling of vitriol from time to time on the courts,
as above explained, would to a great extent check this. In connection wich these
remarks, it may be of advantage to bear in mind that, in turning the dunghills,
there must of necessity be a great loss of ammonia by evaporation. ‘This loss can
easily be entirely prevented by the use of vitriol sprinkled during the time the heap
is being turned. In conclusion, Mr. Mitchell said that there was poetry to be found
even in a manure heap, and so Pope, one of our greatest English poets, could write—

“ See dying vegetables life sustain,
See life dissolving vegetate again ;
All forms that perish other forms supply,
By turns they catch the vital breath and die,”

Leaves ror GARNISHING IN Parts.—Among the minor horticultural indus-
tries of Paris may be mentioned, says M. Mayer de Jouhe in the Revue Horticole,
the sale in large quantities of leaves for garnishing purposes. They consist of ferns,
chestnuts, lilacs, maples, nuts, elms, poplars, and especially of the vine, and are
used for decorative porposes, garnishing dishes, and the like, Large quantities of
bramble leaves are also used, in spite of their prickles, during the winter season,
when they are still to be found in the woods near Paris. The leaves are collected
aaa packets, slightly pressed, and sold by hundreds of thousands in the Paris
markets.

February.

58 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR FEBRUARY.

**Then shall our summer haunts again
Renew their former pleasures ;
The poplar grove, the shady lane,
For thee be full of treasures :
For flowers are treasures unto thee,
And well thou loy’st to find them ;
To gather them with childish glee,
And then in posies bind them.
* Spring is to me no merry time ;
Its smiles are touched with sadness ;
For yanish’d, with life’s early prime,
Is much that gave it gladness.
Yet, merry playmate, for thy sake,
I will not sing of sorrow;
But since thou canst its joys partake,
I would ’twere spring to-morrow.” —BERNARD Barron.

7 NNUALS for specimens and bedding out to be sown now include balsams,
§i| cockscombs, globe amaranths, portulaccas, schizanthuses, phloxes (don’t
forget Phlox Drummondi Radowitz), brachycomas, stocks, tropxolums,
cobceas, lophospermums, and accrolinium.

Brconias should now be repotted, and have large shifts when re-
quired afterwards.

CameEtiras done blooming must be kept warm, and enjoy a moist air. Camel-
lias in bloom keep at 45° by night, and 55° to 60° by day, and with plenty of
water. Plants for late flowering keep only just safe from frost.

CARNATIONS AND Picorers.—Keep the plants hardy, and make ready for re-
potting. Turn over the compost intended for them, and make careful search for
wireworm,

CINERARIAS will now want regular attention to preserve a healthy foliage, as
well as secure a good bloom. Drought will do them much harm, but they must
have plenty of air after being watered. Green-fly will now infest them unless kept
in check. Put the forwardest in the house for blooming.

Cuimpers for summer work to be propagated now in quantity. The rose-like
Calystegia pubescens may be parted and planted out.

Frower Garpen.—Deciduous trees remaining to be planted should be got in
without delay. Fork over mixed borders where it can be done without fear of
damaging ponies, bulbs, etc.; but if these are not tallied, it will be best to leave
the borders alone till the plants are visible above ground. Lay on a good mulch of
half-rotten dung in quarters devoted to roses, or cover the surface with a mixture
of guano and wood-ashes. Old plantations of American shrubs will be benefited
now by dressing the surface with very rotten cow-dung, but they must never
be dug between. Edgings, rockeries, walks, lawns, peat-beds, and roseries may
all be made or planted this month, and the sooner the better. Part and plant
herbaceous plants.

Forcine-Houszs require special attention during this month. Use the syringe
freely on fine mornings, to assist the swelling of figs, peaches, and nectarines. Figs
will take more water now ; peaches need liberal doses of liquid manure.

Fucustas may now be started, and when well broken be repotted. Cuttings
struck now will make good plants this season,

GREENHOUSE. —Fire-heat may be used,more liberally now, as there is more light
and many early subjects are advancing into bloom.

HoiiyuHocks may be increased from cuttings in a gentle heat, and seeds of
choice kinds may be sown with others in a warm pit. Get the stations ready for
those to be planted out this spring. Dig deep, and manure well with rotted cow-dung.

GLADIOLI to be potted in batches, three bulbs in a seven-inch pot, in a compost
of turfy loam, peat, leaf-mould, and sand. Keep nearly dry till the foliage rises.
Keep the pots plunged in a cold frame, and let them grow slowly.

KircHEN GARDEN crops to be cleared off as fast as possible, ‘and the plots
ridged up, to be well aired before being appropriated to summer crops. Breadths
of cabbage, kale, etc., may be taken up and planted close in out-of-the-way places,
where they will sprout as freely as if not lifted. Towards the end of the month
sow main crops of peas and beans, earth up any that are now out of the ground,
and if any fear of vermin, sprinkle with wood-ashes,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 59

Nenrtums require to be started in a brisk, moist heat, and to have abundance of
water as soon as the sap is fairly inmotion. See that they are free from scale and
all other vermin. Old plants should be shaken out and repotted in equal parts
peat, loam, leaf-mould, and rotted cow-dung.

Orcuips will in many cases require to be repotted, after which they must have
the warmest end of the house. Those that do not need a shift should have a little
of the old surface material removed, and its place supplied with fresh.

Puacues and other orchard-house trees will set their fruit more freely if there is
a good breeze through the house every day ; keep atmosphere as dry as possible.

PELARGONIUMS ought now to be growing freely, and on warm bright days
should be watered so as to soak the ball, and bring every rootlet into action. Use
heat enough to allow of air being on all day.

Pinrs may haye an increase of bottom-heat, with more liberal supplies of
water. Put suckers in a tan-bed, or a sweet and active dung-bed, to insure a plen-
tiful growth of roots.

Porarors.—The earliest sorts may now be planted out on warm borders in
large breadths, If the sets are not sprouted, place them in full daylight, and
wait till they have made short purple shoots half an inch long; then plant them
without breaking the sprouts.

RanuncuLuses AND ANEMONES to be planted now in beds of sound loam,
well drained and well manured.

Srove Prants need a general revision at this time of year; those that have
been blooming all winter require to be cut back, and encouraged to break, then to
be shifted to larger pots if needful, or have top-dressings ; where very large speci-
mens are objectionable, the plants may be kept in bounds by the knife, and to
obyiate the use of larger pots, turn them out, remove some of the soil from the
outside of the balls, and repot them with fresh compost in the same pots. Jus-
ticias are now going out of bloom, and may be propagated to any extent, to
riake fine specimens for next season. Poinsettia pulcherrima and Euphorbia
Jacquinizeflora should be grown in quantity, as they are invaluable for conserva-
tory and drawing-room.

_ SfRAWBERRIES coming into fruit need abundance of water, and occasionally
liquid manure. Give as much air and light as possible, to insure well-flavoured fruit ;
those that set heavy crops, thin to a moderate number, or the berries will be small.

Vines started now will not need so much caution as to raising the temperature
as those started in December and January, as there is now more solar light, and
vegetation is active. Use the syringe freely among vines newly breaking, but
sparingly, or not at all, to vines in flower. This is a good time to put in eyes for
raising astock of pot vines.

ead (NGER-POST FOR PURCHASERS
3 OF PLANTS, SEEDS, BULBS, ETC.

CHOICE VEGETABLES.

Asparacus.—Grayson’s Giant is the best type
of this vegetable.

Broap Bxrans.—Mazagan for the first crop,
because of its hardiness, Monarch Long Pod, and
Doh : Taylor's Windsor for productiveness, Green
(ala H Windsor for high quality, Beck’s Gem for
~ small gardens.
js) Borncore.—Dwarf and Tall Green Curled
Scotch, Cottager’s Kale, and Albert Sprouts for
succession during the winter in the order they are
; here placed.

BrussELts Srrours.—Scrymger’s Giant is, perhaps, the best type.
« Jmported seed” is usually excellent.

Broccour.—Walcheren, Grainger’s, Snow’s Superb, Winter White, Lake’s Fine

Late, Leamingto®, Watts’s Excelsior, and Cattell’s Eclipse, are the finest varieties

5

February,

60 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

for succession from October until the following May. They are arranged in the
order they are ready for use.

Cassace.—Barr’s Dwarf, and Atkins’s Matchless for sowing early, to turn in
quickly, Enfield Market and Wheeler’s Imperial for main crops, Rosette Colewort
for sowing in summer for autumn and winter use.

CavLirLowEr.—Larly London, to sow in heat in spring, Dwarf Erfurt Mam-
moth and Veitch’s Autumnal Giant, to sow in March for late summer and autumn
use, Walcheren to sow in autumn for wintering in frames.

Carrot.—Early Short Horn for sowing on borders for summer use, James’s
Intermediate Scarlet, and Red Surrey for main crops, to use during the winter.

Crtery.—Leicester Red and Incomparable White, are the two best types for
garden culture.

Cucumber. — For winter and early spring, use Rollisson’s Telegraph and
Masters’s Prolific ; for general usefulness, Cox’s Volunteer, Cuthill’s Black Spine,
Blue Gown; for ridges, Stockwood Ridge; for pickling, Short Prickly.

Enpivze.— White and Green Curled, Moss Curled, Improved Round-leaved Bata-
vian, and Fraser’s Broad-leaved, the latter is valuable for winter use.

Kipyey Beans. — For pot-culture and early crops out of doors, Sir Joseph
Paxton and Newington Wonder ; for main crop, Negro Long-podded, Red Flageolet,
aud Dark Dun. The best Runner is Scarlet Champion.

Lerex.—Musselburgh, London Flag.

Lerrvuce.—For autumn sowing for winter and spring use, Hammersmith Cab-
bage and Brown Bath Cos; for sowing in spring and summer for summer and
autumn use, Malta Cabbage, Tom Thumb Cabbage, All the Year Round Cabbage,
Bath Cos, Sugar-loaf Cos, Paris White Cos, Holme Park Green Cos.

Metons.—For pot-culture, Turner’s Scarlet Gem. For frame and house, Green
Flesh, Colston Basset Seedling, Trentham Hybrid, Gilbert’s Green Flesh, Improved
Victory of Bath; Scarlet Flesh, Malvern Hall, Ward’s New Netted, Royal Ascot,
Scarlet Gem.

Onton.—For pickling, Early Nocera, Paris silver-skin; main crop for storing,
Improved Bedfordshire Champion, Reading, Deptford, James’s Keeping ; for exhi-
bition, White Spanish, Blood Red, Trebons, Giant Madeira, Giant Rocca; and for
autumn sowing, Red, White, and Globe Tripoli.

ParstEy.—Myatt’s Garnishing, or Moss Curled.

Parsnips.— Hollow Crown, Student.

Pras. — First early, Sutton’s Ringleader or Carter’s First Crop, Taber’s Per-
fection, Easte’s Kentish Invicta, Alpha and Advancer; second crop, Champion of
England, Laxton’s Prolific, Paradise Marrow, and Princess Royal ; main crop and
long gathering, Princess Royal, Hundredfold, McLean’s Wonderful, Omega, Veitch’s
Perfection, The Prince, Ne Plus Ultra, British Queen.

Porarors. — Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Champion, Myatt’s Ashleaf, Extra
Early Vermont, Dalmahoy, Model, Paterson’s Victoria, Suiton’s Berkshire Kidney,
Regent, Gryffe Castle, Headly’s Nonpareil, Late Rose, Fluke, Giant King.

Rapisu.—F or frames, Wood’s Early Frame ; for summer sowing, Beck’s Scarlet
Short-top, French Breakfast, Scarlet Olive-shaped, White’s Olive-shaped, Turnip
(red and white) ; for autumn sowing, Black Spanish and China Rose Winter.

RuvBARB.—Myatt’s Victoria, Myatt’s Linnzus, Johnston’s St. Martin’s.

Sprnacu.—For spring sowing, Round-seeded ; for summer and autumn sowing,
Prickly-seeded. Spinach Beet is very productive, and lasts the whole season ; but
it is not so delicate in flavour as the ordinary summer spinach. New Zealand
Spinach is a fine vegetable for hot dry soils.

Tomators.—Hathaway’s Excelsior, Orangefield Dwarf, Keye’s Early Prolific.

Turnips,—To sow in spring, Early White Strap-leaved, Short-top Six-weeks ;
to sow in summer, Veitch’s Red Globe, Beck’s Golden Stone and White Dutch ; to
sow in autumn, Jersey Navet, Green-top Six-weeks, Chirk Castle.

VEGETABLE MAnrow.—Hibberd’s Prolific, Moore’s Vegetable Cream, Short-
jointed Long White, and Prince Albert.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 61

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

SsHHE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY’S Annual Meeting will be
=| heldin the Council Room, South Kensington, on Tuesday, the 9th inst.,
at three p.m,

Tur Roya Horricutturat Society has recently issued a new
part of its Journal, containing the Reports of the Trials of Plants and
Vegetables at Chiswick, and a record of the Meteorological Observations taken at
Chiswick during 1873.

Tue CLASSIFICATION oF PLANTS will form the subject of a series of lectures
to be delivered by Professor Bentley, at the London Institution, on Mondays,
April 5, 12, 19 and 26, at five p.m.

A New Boranicat ANNUAL, intended chiefly as a record of progress, has
been started under the editorship of Dr. L. Just, of Carlsruhe. It is entitled,
Botanischer Jahresbericht.

Mr. Curzer, secretary of the Gardener’s Royal Benevolent Institution, was, on
the occasion of the Annual Meeting held on the 14th ult., presented with a hand-
some silver tea and coffee service, subscribed for by the supporters of the Institution.

Burrish Funct.—Mr. W. Phillips is preparing to publish, under the title of
« Blvellacei Britannici,” dried specimens of British Fungi, belonging to the genera
included in the order Elvellacei of the Rev. M. J. Berkeley’s ‘‘ Outlines of Fun-
gology, and Mr. M. C. Cooke’s “‘ Handbook of British Fungi”’

A New Porato Diszasz is reported on in the journal of the Central Horticul-
tural Society of France. It appears to be produced by the minute larve of a
lepidopterous fly, which eat into the tuber, and cause the ultimate decay of what-
ever pulp they leave unconsumed.

Mr. Wrt11am Pavr’s annual exhibition of roses in pots, pictorial trees, zonal
pelargonius, etc., will this year be held in the gardens of the Royal Botanic
Society, Regent’s Park, from May 3rd to 10th.

Tue Cotorapo Poratro Brrtrtz.—The Swiss, Austrian, and Belgian Govern-
ments have adopted stringent measures against the importation of American
potatoes infected with the Colorado beetle.

NEW BOOKS.

Piren’s Poutrry Yarp Account Boox. By Hueu Piper (Groombridge and
Sons).—This is at once a most ingenious and a most useful work, that must soon
come into general use, and prove of the utmost value to keepers of poultry. There
is a great bulk of diary for a shilling, sufficient for at least a year’s records of most
poultry-yards, and the pages are ruled for every item of account that can be thought
of as desirable, On oneside are columns for items of receipt, such as daily account
of eggs laid, money produce of eggs sold, fowls sold, chickens sold, etc., while on
the other are entered the outgoings, such as cost of birds, cost of food, rent, labour,
and so forth. It is the first time we have been provided with a proper means of
settling for ourselves the question, “Do poultry pay ?”

Tyr Exements oF Borany. By Tuomas Moore. (Longmans).—This is the
eleventh edition of one of the most useful of school-books. It has been carefully
revised, and is more than ever to be desired as a first step to one of the most useful
and recreative of the sciences. The style is simple, the illustrations to the purpose,
and the scheme so comprehensive, that while it is especially adapted for the young,
the information it pleasantly conveys would be received with gladness by many
who will see their youth no more.

Haypn’s Dictionary or Poputar Mzpicrnz (Moxon).—This is on the plan
of “ Haydn’s Dictionary of Dates,” but not by the same author, Mr. Ray Lankester
being responsible in the present case, It promises to be a thoroughly good book,
too technical sometimes, perhaps, but copious and trustworthy, and especially adapted
for the use of the clergy, and others who visit the poor, for captains of ships, mis-
sionaries, as well as for the family library. In some sense it is a dictionary of
chemistry and physics, as well as of medicine, for in the number before us we find
articles 6n ammonia, barometer, bone, brandy, etc. It is to be completed in sixteen
shilling parts.

February.

62 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

British Witp Frowers. By 0. EB. Sowersy (Van Voorst).—This reprint of
“ Sowerby’s British Botany,” edited by Mr. C. Pierpoint Johnson, is the cheapest
complete English Flora ever produced. It comprises descriptions and figures of all
known British flowering plants, the cost being less than a halfpenny per figure.
It is true the figures are small, and there are twenty on a sheet, but they are won-
derfully life-like and carefully coloured, and the descriptions, though brief, are
sufficient for the genuine student. Let no one buy this as a picture-book, or a
source of entertainment on the milksopism of botany, such as the “language of
flowers” and the “sentiments they convey,” ete. It is a book for the worker, and
those who will work by its aid will have some respect for it all their lives after.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Heatine Cucumper Frame.—M.R.—We should advise you to heat your pit
with hot water ; the expense would not be much, as one four-inch pipe round the
pit would give you all the heat you require for cucumber growing. Have pipes
which have troughs made on them ; these can be filled with water and a constant
steam kept up. You could also employ the ordinary-shaped pipes, and have
troughs for holding the water made with zinc. In that case you must have
them bedded on the pipes with red lead, for you will not be able to heat the water
in them sufficiently to raise a steam. If the pit is heated with hot dung, you must
have a trench about three feet wide, and about the same depth, round the pit. The
walls of the pit nearly up to the ground-level should be pigeon-holed, to admit the
heat supplied by the linings into the bed inside. The other side of the trench should
be kept in its position with a four-inch wall; you can grow equally as good, and
perhaps better, cucumbers in a pit heated with manure than you can in one heated
with hot water; but unless you havea stable to run to for manure, you will find
it an expensive affair, And, moreover, it will require more anxiety and attention
to keep up a regular temperature ; and such things happen to amateurs as having
the roots burnt occasionally, through the manure becoming too hot.

Pracurs anpD NectaRINEs ror Open Watu.—D.i.—We should advise you
tomake a selection at once, and get the planting finished by the end of February.
The trees will then become nicely rooted at once, and start freely early in the spring.
Spring-planted trees lose the best part of the season in making roots. If your
soil is naturally good, you need do nothing to the border beyond trenching in a
moderate dressing of thoroughly decayed manure. Mix the manure well with
the soil, and trench as deep as the nature of the subsoil will admit. To insure the
highest degree of success you had better take out about a couple of barrowfuls of the
old soil where the trees are to be planted, and fill in with good turfy loam chopped
up roughly. Spread the roots out carefully, and keep them near the surface.
With uncongenial soil, your best plan will be to take it entirely away to a depth of
three feet, and fill the space with good turfy loam. This would be an expensive
affair, but you would be more than repaid in the superior quality and quantity of
the fruit. We should not advise you to mix any manure with the soil in the first
instance; it would promote too great a luxuriance in the growth. What you want
is medium-sized stubby and well-ripened wood.

Watt-Trees.— Subseriber—We are of opinion, judging from what you say,
that the trees have exhausted the soil in which they are growing, and are therefore
unable to make progress. We suppose you have not allowed them to become
smothered with red-spider and green and black fly; either of these separately, or
the three in combination, is quite sufficient, if they are allowed to get ahead, to
check the most robust-growing tree. Give the border a dressing of about three
inches of good rotten dung, and dig it in the border early in the autumn, but without
going deep enough to injure the roots, Excessive cropping would account for
the fruit being small on your free-growing trees, and the dry weather has not been
favourable to the production of large fruit.

Sranparp CyranopHyLLuMs.—4Amateur.—There will be no difficulty in growing
the noble Cyanophyllum magnificum as a standard. You must first grow it up to
the required height with a single stem, and then cut the top off. After the branches
which are emitted from the top buds have made several pairs of leaves, pinch out

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 63

the growing points, and that will cause them to break and form nice round heads.
If you have a plant sufficiently high already, you can cut it down at once—any
time from February to the end of September will do; and assoon as tke plant has
broken, and the young shoots are about a couple of inches in length, take it out of
the pot, reduce the ball, and repot in one a size smaller. Use good fibry loam and
peat and leaf-mould in equal parts, with the addition of a good sprinkling of silver-
sand. We like young plants with fine large foliage drooping over the sides of the
pots. Standard specimens look very well in large stoves, but they are quite out of
place in small collections.

Fics Drorrinc.— Young Gardener.—We expect the cause is neglect to keep
the tree properly watered. Wedo not wonder at a few things suffering in such a
dry summer as that of 1874. ‘Too much water will cause the fruit to drop, but as
the fig-tree, when in full growth, requires such a plentiful supply, we should hardly
think that it has had too much. A deficiency in the air-supply through the summer
is very prejudicial to the proper maturation of the fruit crop. To guard against
losing any of the fruit through dropping off prematurely in future seasons, pay
close attention to the roots. Keep them weil watered, but without soddening the
soil, and give plenty of air whenever the weather will admit of its being done without
chilling the foliage. Regulate the admission of this element according to the
weather, but contrive to give a little at all times when the trees are in full growth.

Fucusta FULGENS.—J/nquirer.—Fuchsia fulgens will grow freely enough in
good loam and leaf-mould, with a little sand. The plants should not be over-
potted, or you will get too much foliage and few blooms. Keep them well watered
when growing, and after they have done flowering harden well off. They should
not be cut in too hard, as that would encourage the production of too strong-growing
shoots. The plants require syringing to keep down thrip and red-spider, in much
the same manner as other fuchsias, This grand old fuchsia is ‘admirably adapted
for windows.

Curturn or Dapuneg inpicA.—J.C.—This fragrant flowering plant requires
the protection of a greenhouse through the autumn, winter, andspring. In the
summer it should be placed out of doors along with the other hard-wooded plants.
To keep the plants bushy, pinch or cyt back directly they have done flowering, and
let them make the new growth with plenty of light and air, to prevent its being
weak and spindly. Unless the wood is strong and stocky, very few flowers can be
expected. You will find your plants grow freely in good fibry loam and peat, two
parts of the latter to one of the former, mixed with a liberal proportion of silver-
sand, The pots must be well drained, and the plants Lave plenty of water when
growing inthespring. During the remaining part of the time the soil must have no
more water than is sufficient to keep it in a healthy growing condition, neither too
wet nor too dry. Well established plants usually produce short jointed shoots, and
do not require any stopping.

Ivies.—W. C., Wallingford.—You will be able to obtain the ivies and
polyanthuses from Mr. Charles Turner, Royal Nurseries, Slough.

Osmunpsa.—No. 1 is Gaultheria Shallon, and No. 2 Spirea ariefolia,

Insurep RosE-TREE.—Fothergill—The best course will be to prune the injured
shoots back to a few inches below the wounds, The wallflowers may be cut back
in the spring.

Petherwyn.—We value our time too highly to name thirty ferns for you. Our
only course, when such a parcel comes to hand, is not to look at its contents,

Miss J. L. H. J—The sand of which you sent asample is not suitable for mixing
with composts prepared for pot plants, and river sand will be in every way prefer-
able. We cannot give the name of the rose from the leaves. Under the circum-
stances, the best course will perhaps be to have the ground dug up by a farm
labourer, and to call in the aid cf a strong girl to do the weeding and other liglit
work during the summer season. The advice contained in the articles on vegetable
culture, the first of which appears this month, will, doubtless, be found of con-
siderable service in cropping the kitchen-garden. The Hesperoscordum lacteum
will thrive in any light soil, and is quite hardy. Gelasine azurea, also, succeeds
most satisfactorily in a light warm soil.

Sugsrirure ror Prar.—Plower Frenzy will find it an easy task to prepare a
substitute for peat for some purposes ; but heaths, and indeed hard-wooded plants

February.

64 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

generally, that require peat, will not put up with a substitute. The peat used
for fuel is generally what we know as grassy bog, and quite unfit for plant-
growing. If, however, it contains much fibre, and is not decidedly pasty, a liberal
addition of sharp sand may render it serviceable. About one-fourth of sand to the
bulk will be required. The begonias may be shifted in about a month to next
size pots; a rich loamy compost suits them best, say two parts turfy loam, and one
part each leaf-mould, and rotted hotbed manure, and sharp sand. For common
ferns, and many of the more accommodating plants that grow in peat, a substi-
tute for peat may be prepared by mixing equal parts of clean leaf-mould, well
rotted cocoa-nut-fibre refuse, mellow loam, and sharp sand.

M. A. T.—The nectarine sheds its fruit because insufficiently nourished at
the root. You probably begin to water it too late. In yourclimate, Marechal
Niel and Cloth of Gold do not require to be protected. Whenever trees are matted
up, the mats should be removed during mild weather. Ivy does certainly injure
trees, but much depends on the extent to which it is allowed to run riot over them.
Your fourth query requires consideration.

TRADE CATALOGUES.

Barr AnD SuapeEn, 12, Kine Srreer, Covent GArpen, W.C.—Descriptive
Spring Catalogue of Seeds for the Flower and Kitchen Garden.

J. Carter anp Co., 287 & 238, Hien Hoxrzorn, W.C.—List of Flower
and Vegetable Seeds.

HASE, Broturrs, AnD Woopwarp (RocueEsTer, New Yorx.)—Iilustrated

Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds.

Ricuarp Dean, Earine, Lonnon, W.--Catalogue of New and Choice Pota-
toes.— Catalogue of Primroses, Polyanthuses, and Violas.

Dicxsox, Brown anp Tart, 43 & 45, Corporation STREET, MANCHESTER.
— Catalogue of Vegetable and Fluwer Seeds, ete.

Dickson Anp Co, 1, Watertoo Pricer, Epinnurcu .—Descriptive List of.
Gladioli,

Dicxson Anp Rogrinson, 28, Marker Pracr, MancuEster.— General Cata-
logue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. :

Francis and ArtHuR Dickson anp Sons, Upron Nurseries, CuestER.—
Catalogue of Fruit Trees.

Joun Frasrr, Lea Batner Roan, Leyton, E.— General Descriptive Catalogue.

Hurst Anp Son, 6, Leapenuatt Srreet, E.C.—TZrade List of Novelties.

Tue Lawson Szrp anp Nursery Company (Limirep), EpinsurcH AND
London. — Catalogue of Kitchen and Flower Garden Seeds.

Joun And Cuantes Lez, Royat Vinryarp Nursery, HAMMERSMITH, LonpoN,
W-—Catalogue of Kitchen Garden. Flower Garden, Farm Seeds, etc.

Narpy anp Co., Satyapour, HyEerrs.— General Catalogue of Plants.

New Pxuant anp Burs Company, Lion Watx, Concnzster. — A Retail
List of Japanese Lilies, Orchids, Plants, Seeds, ete.

Dick Rapctyrre anp Co., 129, Hich Hornorn, W.C.—Catalogue of Vege-
table and Flower Seeds, and Garden Elegancies.

W. H. RocrErs, 132, Hiau Srrerr, anp Rep Loncx Nursery, Souru-
Ampron.— A Descriptive Catalogue of Seeds.

_Wiit1aM Rotrisson anv Sons, Toorive, — General Seed Catalogue, com-
prising a List of Subtropical Plants.

F. Sanprr anv Co., Sr. AuBAns.— Oonifere, Tree, and Shrub Seed Catalogue.

C. Suarp and Co., SLEAroRD.— General Catalogue of Seeds, ete.

Surron anp Sons, Reapine.—Amateur’s Guide and Catalogus of Flower
and Vegetable Seeds.

Surron anv Sons, Rrapinc. — Sutton’s Miniature Seed Catalogue and
Amateur’s Guide.

James Verrcu AnD Sons, K1na’s Roap, Cuetsra.—Catalogue of Garden and
Flower Seeds. List of Gladioli.

Vicx, Rocurster, New Yorx.—Tilustrated Floral Guide for 1875.

* BG. 8. Winrrams, Vicrorta anp PARrapise Nurserizs, Upper Hortoway,
N.— General Seed Catalogue.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 65

VARIETIES OF ROSES THAT ORIGINATE BY SPORTS.
(With Coloured Illustration of Pink Gloire de Dijon.)

SAT is not known how many varieties of garden roses
% originated in sports, but the experienced rosarian will
fairly assume that they constitute but a very small
proportion of the kinds in cultivation. The rose is not

sae sportive; it is one of the most constant of flowers, and
on those rare occasions when sports occur it is difficult to fix them,
and we are really not sure of them until they have been established
some years apart from the plants out of which they originated.
There is always a probability of their sporting back, and thus mock-
ing all our labour. Hence it follows that to obtain new roses we
must raise seedlings, and this brings the production of new roses
into the front of the fine arts ; whereas, if we waited for sports, we
should be trusting to chance, which is not one of the arts at all.
How different is it with the chrysanthemum, which is constantly
sporting into new colours, and produces new varieties in this way,
that are easily fixed, so that they soon acquire names and characters,
and a place in competitions as important as veritable seedlings can
hope for. Take Cedo nulli, for example. It exists in no less than
five distinct colours, white, lilac, yellow, brown, and purple, and
four of these are sports that appear to be as constant as seedlings.
In Chapter xxii. of the ‘‘ Rose Book” will be found an account of a
method of producing rose sports by means of incipient buds, cut
from the lower parts of the shoots of the year. This procedure may
ensure spotted and striped flowers, but hitherto it has not, so far as
I know, produced a single variety worthy to be named; for our
annual importations of new roses are seedlings, certainly. In the
case of a sport occurring, however, the cultivator would be bound to
do his best to fix it, and the first step would be to enter on briers or
manettis, as might be most convenient, all the good buds that could
be taken from the shoot on which the sport occurred. That being
done, we should make the best of what remained of the shoot, with
a view to secure own root plants, even if we put the soft top into
heat to compel it to make roots.

Amongst the more notable sports of roses, three occur to me as
demanding notice. Some years ago I obtained from Mr. Verschaf-
felt his red variety of Souvenir de la Malmaison, which was figured
in “ Illustration Horticole,” pl. 303. This was an extremely pretty
flower of a cherry-red colour; but the plant did not grow satisfac-
torily at Stoke Newington, and I never recommended it.. The Red
Lamarque was equally unsatisfactory, for although it flowered freely,
the colour was not good. Now we have a Pink Gloire de Dijon
that is really beautiful, and promises to become a garden favourite.
Referring to the December issue of the ‘‘ Journal of the Royal Hor-
ticultural Society,” wherein it is figured, I learn that it originated
with Mr. A. 8. Kemp, the plant being a true Gloire de Dijon on its

Mareh, 5

66 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

own roots struck from acutting four years since, and now producing
ngne of the flowers proper to the variety, but rosy pink flowers
only. ‘

Whatever of interest for the physiologist or horticulturist there
may be in the production of new varieties of roses from sports,
it. is at least curious that the three here named have originated
as they have done, the parent varieties being so nearly alike. Two
out of the three may be described as yellow Noisette roses,
although Gloire de Dijon is usually classed as a tea, while the Sou-
venir, though a Bourbon and flesh-tinted, is really not far removed
in affinities.

THE AMATEUR’S VINERY.
No. 3.—Tut Musoar Hovst.

BY THOMAS TRUSSLER,

Narseryman, etc., Edmonton, N.

=H N speaking of the Muscat of Alexandria, which is one of
-| the finest and most richly flavoured of all grapes ‘at
present in cultivation, it is needful to say it is not suit-
able for planting in the amateur’s vinery, strictly so
~ Called. It requires more heat than the Black Ham-
burg, Buckland Sweetwater, and Black Prince, and for that reason
alone cannot be cultivated with gain. It also requires more skilful
cultivation. Yet it is so distinct and good, that the energetic
amateur, with more than one house available for grape-growing,
should take it in hand boldly. The production of a good crop of
Museats is an achievement of which an amateur may well feel proud,
and with careful management, a large measure of success is well-
nigh certain. The main point in which the cultivation of this
splendid grape differs from the other kinds alluded to is in requiring
a higher temperature, and it should, as far as practicable, be grown
in a house by itself. It need not be a large house, and one twelve
feet in width and twenty or thirty feet long, would yield a supply
sufficient to last during the greater part of the winter. However,
to show that it may be grown most successfully in very small
houses, I will mention the fact that last autumn I saw in the garden
of which a friend of mine has charge, a most beautiful crop in a
house eight feet in width and sixteen feet inlength. The house was
one of a series of cucumber-houses that, as more cucumbers were
produced annually than were wanted, and a supply of Muscats
required, it was determined to plant it with vines. Hot-water
pipes already existed underneath the bed on which the cucumbers
were grown, and as bottom heat is of considerable service in the
production of Muscats, the pipes were allowed to remain, and a
strong platform formed with stone slabs, upon which to put the
soil. When this was done, the border was formed with materials

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 67

similar to those advised in my communication to the January

——

VINERY FOR MUSCATIS WITH HEATED BORDER,

number of the Foran Wortp. Three vines were then planted, and
each was trained to have two main rods, for the purpose of afford-
March.

68 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ing them a greater development of foliage than would otherwise
have been possible.

Bottom heat, although of considerable assistance to the vines,
is by no means indispensable. It doubtless hastens the maturity of
the crop, and helps the vines immensely; but good crops are an-
nually produced without it.

The borders of the Muscat house at Ealing Park, from which
Mr. Cole obtains the grand samples he exhibits at the principal
autumn fruit shows, are not heated; and other gardens could be
mentioned in which good crops are produced without bottom heat.
It is mainly a question of money; but speaking in a general way, I
should not recommend the amateur to heat the borders. The
accompanying diagram illustrates the best system of heating vine-
borders yet adopted. The border is twelve feet in width, and is
supported with brick walls, and a platform of stone. The walls are
nine inches in thickness, and “ pigeon holed,” that is, a number of
openings are left in the wall to enable the heat from the pipes to
circulate freely underneath the border. The stone slabs, which may
be of the roughest description, are laid across, with the ends rest-
ing on the walls. The drainage is then laid on the platform and
the compost filled in, in the manner advised when speaking of the for-
mation of ordinary borders.

For maintaining the proper temperature inside the house, four
rows of four-inch pipes will be required, and these must be carried
round each end as well as along the front, as indicated in the
diagram. In large gardens, it is all very well to start Muscats early,
to have them ripe in summer; but in small gardens, no attempt
should be made to force them. They commence to grow naturally
in March, and when they once make signs of growth, they must be
assisted with artificial heat whenever required. From the time the
vines start until the bunches are visible, the day temperature must
be maintained at 60°. From the time the bunches can be seen until
the shoots are about four inches in length, the temperature must be
increased to 70°. This heat will suffice until the vines are in bloom,
when it must be increased ten degrees. After the berries are set,
and until the crop is ripe, a temperature of 85° will be necessary.
The above are day temperatures; the night temperature to be in
every case five degrees lower; but in sunny weather an increase of
five degrees in the daytime may be allowed with advantage.

EXHIBITION FERN CASKS.

SS==<—s7 INCE fern cases have hada place in competitive exhi-
i © bitions, a number of elegant constructions, with a few
decidedly inelegant, have been brought forward, not
only to compete for prizes at exhibitions, but to share,
* if possible, in the favour of the general public. Of all

the many forms and plans of construction, none ever satisfied us so
s those with curvilinear tops manufactured and furnished by

we] “s, Barr and Sugden. These are so extremely elegant that, if

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 69

not too large to be moved about, they may be employed to embellish
the drawing-room on occasions when special embellishment is
required, and be taken away when the occasion has gone by. It
will be seen by the figure that the glass is held in an extremely
light framework, and it is this which especially distinguishes the
make, for, generally speaking, the framework is too heavy, and
when it is much ornamented it is apt to be hideous. In judging at
exhibitions, we have many a time startled and vexed manufacturers
by withholding prizes from huge, cumbrous, much-ornamented fern
cases. It is astonishing how ready people are to forget that the
jewel is of more importance than the case in which it is kept. We
do not want heavily-ornamented fern-cases and aquaria, but we do
want simple elegance, combined with strength, and the greatest
capacity possible, consistently with the measurement. The case
here figured is as strong as need be. We have not seen it sur-
passed in beauty of appearance, and it suits the ferns admirably.

BARR AND SUGDEN’S FERN CASE.

The soil used in the planting of these cases is a mixture of
pounded charcoal and cocoa-nut fibre. This answers admirably
when the cases are prepared for exhibition. Now it should be
known to persons who admire fern cases at exhibitions that the
rules do not require that the ferns have been grown in them. Con-
sequently, the exhibitor selects from a stock of first-class pot ferns
those that will make a telling group, and having knocked them out
of the pots, plants them in the cases, and exhibits them in the most
perfect condition. But they cannot be kept in this condition, and
those who buy them must expect them to decline in beauty. How-
ever they are well worth having for all that. If the selection is a
good one, and a compost be used consisting of turfy peat, three parts,
silver sand, one part, and pounded charcoal, one part, the ferns will
thrive, and look well at all seasons, and some day they will, in con-

March,

70 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. .

sequence of their free growth, require to be thinned out. ‘here
should be sufficient planted in the first instance to make a good
effect, but yet room for growth be allowed. It is of great im-
portance to keep ferns in these cases only moderately moist, and
to give air carefully, so that the thin textured ferns will not be dis-
tressed. It is the custom with amateurs who have not had much
experience, to kill their ferns by giving too much water and too
little air. They do not want much of either when grown in cases,
but they want both in moderation, and should be regularly looked
at, for when neglected or forgotten, they are in danger. It is often
the case, too, that ferns in cases are deprived of sufficient light, and
become attenuated and sickly in consequence. A little sunshine is
good for them, although they will not endure to be roasted.

In selecting ferns for cases, it isa good rule to confine the
selection to evergreen greenhouse kinds. The hardy ones can be well
grown without the aid of cases, and the very tender kinds, such as
are called “ stove ferns,’ are likely to perish in winter, through
insufficiency of warmth. But allthe greenhouse ferns can be win-
tered safely in cases kept in apartments that are only moderately
warmed during winter, and, if kept with some care, they will be
scarcely less beautiful in winter than in summer.

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF PARROTS.
BY THE PRISONER’S FRIEND.

“A parrot turns
Up, thro’ gilt wires, a crafty, loving eye,
And takes a lady’s finger with all care,
And bites it for true heart, and not for harm.”
Trnnyson’s “Tur Princess.”

4) LETTER has been handed to me, with a request that I
| will answer it in the pages of the Froran Wortp. The
writer has, during many years past, taken some interest
in parrots, but has few opportunities of gratifying her
os love of these interesting birds. Now, however, the
ease is altered. With improved means, and increase of leisure,
there comes a new desire to enjoy somewhat of the society of these
beautiful and intelligent creatures, and I am asked to advise on the
selection and management of a parrot family.

As a considerable number of parrots (I use the term in a col-
lective sense) are unfit for a household, because of their ugly
manners, discretion must be used in making a selection. The merits
of the common Grey Parrot are well known, and it seems scarcely
necessary to say that it is the very best bird for enlivening and
embellishing a dwelling-house. It is, of course, generally under-
stood that individual parrots differ in capacity and docility; but in
the case of grey parrots the differences are not so great as with
other kinds. They are alZ clever if well taught and they are all

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 71

gentle if treated kindly and kept in good health. The temper is
influenced by the health in parrots as much as in men and women.

Next in importance to the grey parrot I should place the large
White Cockatoo ; for although this species never becomes loquacious,
and is not particularly imitative, its beauty and gentleness render it
most desirable. It is, in some sense, a mistake to have only one of
these birds ; they should be kept in pairs, for then they become
immensely interesting; their mutual tender regard, their little
quarrels, and their reconcilements, afford immense entertainment.
I have a pair that are usually kept in separate cages, side by side,
but are occasionally together in one cage. When one of these only
is kept ina house, it is apt to become bare on the breast through
plucking off its feathers—the consequence, I believe, in most cases,
of lack of amusement.

The small Sulphur-erested Cockatoo is as well known as the
grey parrot. It is no talker, but otherwise a very teachable and an
extremely comical bird. One is enough in any household, for it is
noisy and boisterous if in health ; and a pair make so much noise, as
to be unbearable. The greatest favourite we ever had was a bird of
this species, that had long been accustomed to enjoy perfect free-
dom, and, though well able to use its wings, was allowed to roam
about the house and garden, and do in all things as it pleased,
except at night, when it was required to sleep in a cage, to prevent
its doing mischief in the morning, before anyone was about to keep
it in order.

For those who want a fireside pet of the quietest possible nature,
the Rosy Cockatoo-parrot (voseo-capillus) isinvaluable. It is much
like a pigeon in size and shape, the prevailing colour mauvy pink, or
soft purplish rose, with a very short crest, and a small, piping voice,
which agrees with its pretty manners. This bird is decidedly tender,
and suffers from catarrh if exposed to cold, and therefore is not
adapted for a house where the parrots are treated somewhat roughly.
In my case, one of these is enough; and it can be taught to say a
few words, and to perform a number of tricks. Mine shakes hands
prettily, does needlework if presented with a mite of calico, and
varies its performances with such utterances as “Pretty Tibby,”
“ Kiss me, dear,” ete., etc.

For beauty and vivacity the King Parrot must take precedence
of all others; but it is a somewhat tiresome bird, in consequence of
its activity and guttural chattering. If a merry noise is not to be
feared, this brilliant little parrot is much to be valued ; for it may
be taught to whistle a few bars of simple music, and will soon learn
to make a harp of the wires of its cage.

The Amazons Parrot is the merriest bird of the whole family,
though very far inferior to the grey parrot in vocal powers. When
purchased, it will probably say, “Papaguy,” and may soon be
taught a few more words. Its forte, however, is laughing and cry-
ing ; and in a house with children it soon learns to imitate all their
noises, from the scream of joy to the sobbing of despair, with all
the intermediate grades of feeling.

The Festive Parrot, which is known as the Common Green, is

March.

72 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

scarcely desirable, except in a collection, as it is neither clever nor
possessed of any striking characteristics of its own.

Of Maccaws it is not needful to speak. Whoever that loves
parrots could be long without a maccaw? It is part of my duty,
however, to warn the reader to think twice about it before taking
charge of such a pet; for it is certainly not the most desirable
amongst the many parrots that are at command for the private house-
hold. The Red and Blue Macaw is the grandest of the family, and
as teachable as any. The Blue and Yellow is grand, but scarcely so
pleasing in appearance. The green is beautiful, and somewhat more
noisy than the rest. They look best and enjoy life best on poles.
If kept in cages, the disposition and power of the bird to destroy
must be thought of in time, or the cage will soon be torn to
pieces.

In selecting parakeets and lories, beauty of appearance is the
principal matter to consider. The delicate Nymphacus, the Rose-
ringed Parakeet, and the Zebra Parakeets, or Budgeregars, of Aus-
tralia, are especially pleasing, and adapted for domestication. The
little Red and Blue-headed Parakeet is very tameable, and may be
trained to go in and out of its cage as it pleases.

In the management of these birds careful feeding is, of course,
of the very first importance. This part of the subject, however, is
likely to obtain attention where what may be called the moral treat-
ment is neglected. As to food, then, I shall merely remark that the
best staple food is canary-seed, or maize slightly softened by steeping
an hour or two in hot water. Hemp-seed should be given sparingly,
and at intervals; it is too heating to be supplied in any plenty.
Grey parrots like fresh bread and milk, which answers in place of
water; but all parrots that are not supplied with bread and milk
should have fresh water every day.

One of the first requisites of the moral training is to win the
confidence of the bird. To say that kindness will ensure this
happy result would be to say too little. You must be frequently
near the bird, talking to it, observing its ways, and, as far as may
be safe, making free with it, but always in a gentle and quiet man-
ner. I have made very rapid progress with young wild birds by
stroking their heads and shoulders with a feather. They soon
learned to look for the feather. Then I would compel them to come
close to the wires to reach the feather, and I would draw the feather
back in my hand, so that at last I could scratch the pupil’s poll with
my finger; and thenceforward training and teaching became easy
work, or rather a pleasant pastime. Towards dusk is the time to
begin to teach a half-wild bird; they are not then in a snappish
humour, and the wretched dithering (I know not what else to call
it) that an untamed parrot indulges in best part of the day is over,
and it is disposed to listen and observe.

One of the most important of all the points in the moral
management is to provide the bird with amusement. I have all
the cotton-reels saved for the parrots, and they look for them as a
daily treat, the enjoyment consisting, of course, in tearing the reels
to pieces. The employment prevents gnawing of perches, and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 73

plucking off feathers, and is a delightful sedative to a noisy or ill-
tempered bird. A bit of hard wood of any kind answers as
well in place of a cotton-reei, but the latter possesses a charm of
some sort. Perhaps the perforation suggests a mystery to be
explored, the home, the bird may think, of a fat grub worth digging
out for supper. A reasonable amount of shouting and riot is good
for these excitable creatures. I sometimes wake them up by
clapping my bands, and using loud, laudatory, and babyish language,
and obtain immediate and frantic response, that goes all round the
house ; for the birds are scattered, and the sound of joy in one
apartment soon travels to another, and screaming and crowing (or
I might say craying, for the sound is such) makes the house a sort of
bird-Bedlam pro. tem. The cockatoos display their crests, and their
wings, and their tails gloriously on these occasions, and that wild,
discordant, unteachable thing, the Red-throated Australian parrot,
joins heartily in the chorus, and appears to consider it a war-
whoop.

Occasional change is good for parrots, especially the more clever
of their number—for these, of course, are the more observant. I
occasionally send my best birds away to the houses of friends, where
they are always welcome, and I find the procedure decidedly bene-
ficial. It affords me a welcome rest, and, at the same time, provides
the birds with new excitement, the result being a healthy rousing
from the monotony of their ordinary life, and contributions of
parrotical joy to other households. Change about the house is good
in its way, but change out of the house is better. As a rule, how-
ever, when the birds are at home, they should be, as much as possible,
kept in the same places. We all like change, and yet we like our
customary chair and chimney-corner. It is just the same with the
parrots; they are very human in their sympathies and require-
ments.

I ought, I feel, to say a word about the biting propensities of
these pets. Good management does almost entirely obliterate this
vexatious habit; but there are some that never give up snapping,
however well trained they may be. The most tiresome kind in this
respect is the Amazons parrot, which can never be depended on.
There is one golden rule for the real lover of parrots in respect of
this habit, and it is, to ignore it as much as possible. It is uo easy
matter, I know, to appear unmoved and quite unaware of the fact
that your pet is disposed to make a hole in your finger; but it is
the right way to behave in the hour of danger. It is astonishing
how well you may get through a trial of the kind, if you completely
control your fears. By the exhibition of fear, and snatching the
hand away, the bird is encouraged to bite, and will bite hard; but if
treated as worthy of the most complete confidence, it will be often
found that the object was not to punish, but to play; and it must
ever be borne in mind that affection, quite as much as dislike, is
exhibited by parrots in the use of the mandibles, and they love to
gently nibble the fingers of their friends, and must be allowed to
learn to do it. I am much amused sometimes when my man is
cleaning and dressing the parrots, and has his bare arms in the cage

Marck,

74: THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

busy at work. At such times the birds will often help by dancing
up and down, with wings drooping, and all feathers up, and perhaps
now and then giving the bare arms a gentle, playful nip. Yet the
confidence shown in this way has never been betrayed, and a real
case of cruel biting is in our house quite unknown.

PROMENADE TREES.

BY ALEXANDER M’ KENZIE, ESQ.,

Landscape Gardener, etc., Alexandra Park, Muswell Hill, N.

OR the promenade, the terrace, and the Italian garden,
| we require trees of a quite distinct character of growth
‘to those best adapted for park and wilderness plant-
ing. In the one case, close-growing trees of an upright
columnar habit are alone suitable, and in the other,
trees with widely spreading heads, or remarkable for their gracefully
flowing outlines, are the most appropriate. They are not only
more in strict accordance with the straight lines with which they
are surrounded, but they help to create a greater diversity in the
garden scenery than would be the case were trees of all classes
mixed up indiscriminately over the whole of the garden and park.
Some writers would fain have us believe that we should bring the
wilderness to the hall door and the drawing-room window; but
those who have any knowledge of the principles of landscape
gardening will, I feel assured, agree with me when I say that the
garden contiguous to the house should be somewhat formal and
highly dressed, and the wilderness and other rustic scenes be
arranged at extreme points in the grounds, so that the transition
from the warmth and richness to be found indoors to the wildness
of nature may be as gradual as possible.

It is not my intention to enlarge upon these points, as my object
in writing now is to indicate a few of the more important trees for
promenade planting, and I have merely alluded to generalities in
passing, to show how important it is to select trees of a character
suitable to the position they are intended to occupy. Granted
that trees of a close upright habit are required for the promenade,
we have next to consider the length, breadth, and position of the
latter, and to select the trees according. It would never do to select
the same trees for small as we would for large promenades. No,
the trees must be proportionate. For example, for walks eight or
ten feet or so in width and several hundred feet in length, large
trees of a close yet somewhat free habit, such as the Wellingtonia
and Picea pinsapo, may be planted; but for ordinary promenades,
especially on terraces near the dwelling-house, smaller trees, like the
Thujas and Junipers, will be more appropriate.

Before passing on to give the names of the finest promenade
trees, I am anxious to say that for the sake of uniformity the same
class of trees should be planted throughout the promenade, and

t

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 7.

that the trees on both sides must be planted opposite to each other.
The trees ought also to be of the same height, the same size, and,
as far as practicable, of an equal degree of vigour ; for if they differ
materially in the latter respect, some will grow more freely than the
others, and in the course of afew years the lines will present an
uneven appearance. But with ordinary care in selecting the trees,
and a little regulation of the growth when needful, there will be no
difficulty in keeping all the trees to precisely the same shape and size.

The trees which can be the most strongly recommended for
promenade walks and geometrical schemes are—

Cupresssus Lawsoniana, a handsome tree of medium growth, emi-
nently suitable for rather broad walks, cheap, and thriving in ordi-
nary soils.

Cupressus Lawsoniana erecta viridis is a fine form of the preced-
ing; in growth more erect, and in colour of a much brighter green; ©
it is one of the finest of promenade trees.

Cupressus Lawsoniana argentea is less erect than either of the
preceding, and forms roundish and dense specimens ; the tips of the
shoots silvery, and drooping gracefully.

Juniperus chinensis, a hardy and beautiful tree of medium growth,
and elegant pyramidal habit.

Juniperus excelsa stricta, a beautiful small growing tree, with a
neat pyramidal habit and glaucous green foliage.

Juniperus communis hibernica is the Irish juniper, well known
for its upright columnar habit; it can be clipped and kept to a
small size, and is, therefore, well adapted for terrace promenades.

Juniperus hispanica has a dense pyramidal habit, and is very
handsome when from four to six feet high.

* Libocedrus decurrens, a rather robust tree, columnar in growth,
and exceedingly handsome, resembling in some respect a cigantic
lycopod. The colour is exceedingly rich.

Retinospora obtusa is a hardy and most elegant tree, forming
dense roundish specimens; but it is not so generally useful as the
other things mentioned.

Taxus fastigata is the Irish yew, so well known for its columnar
habit, and is one of the best trees for promenades and geometrical
gardens. It can be clipped to form neat columns three feet in
height, or it may be allowed to grow into specimens twelve or fifteen
feet high.

Tacus japonica is similar in character to the preceding, but
dwarfer.

Thuja Lobbi, a handsome tree of upright growth, somewhat
similar to Libocedrus decurrens.

Thuja orientalis awrea is dwarf and distinct in character. It forms
dense round bushes, and is one of the finest of its class for geome-
trical gardens and terraces. The young growth has a golden hue in
spring, and the plants are then very attractive.

Thuja orientalis elegantissima differs trom the preceding in being
of a more erect and columnar habit.

Thujopis borealis, a fine upright evergreen, of rather free growth,
and exceedingly handsome for broad promenades.

March,

76 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

For very broad promenades in large gardens, and for carriage
drives in those of a smaller size, Araucaria imbricata, Cedrus deodara,
Picea pinsapo, and Wellingtonia gigantea are the most valuable of
all the hardy coniferous trees. The three last mentioned are most
preferable. The two last mentioned are perhaps the most sym-
metrical of the large growing trees in the class to which they
belong.

NOTES ON SEED SOWING.
BY WILLIAM COLE,

Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex, W.

pea LED sowing of necessity occupies a large share of atten-
aesave tion during the month of March, for nearly all the

f24¥%) principal kitchen garden crops and numbers of flower
seeds have to be sown. As so much depends upon
— the way in which seeds are sown, especially those of
small size, I shall offer a few remarks bearing on the subject, for
the purpose of assisting those amateurs who have not had much
experience in work of this kind. The seeds to be sown now may,
for convenience, be divided into three classes :—large seeds, such as
the peas and beans , seeds which are to remain in the beds in which
they are sown—as, for example, onions; and those which are
usually sown in beds and transplanted, such as cabbage and lettuce.
The sowing of peas and beans is simple enough, but as so many
amateurs spoil their crop by sowing so thickly that the plants
crowd each other in a manner that renders their proper development
impossible, it will do no harm to point out briefly the proper way
for sowing the seed to avoid waste, and at the same time secure a
good crop.

Peas, more especially the tall-growing sorts, produce the heaviest
crops when sown in rows from twelve to twenty feet apart, as both
sides of the rows are fully exposed to the light and air. This has
been pointed out in these pages on more than one occasion, and it is
not needful to do more than allude to it in passing. In sowing the
main crop sorts, itis an excellent plan to sow in trenches about nine
inches in width and six inches in depth. The soil to be trenched
over to a depth of two feet, and six inches of the subsoil to be
thrown out of the bottom of the trench; for it would never do to
remove six inches of the well-pulverized soil from the surface to
form the trench. It is good practice to mix with the soil as it is
turned over six inches or so of good rotten manure,and when this
is done rather more soil must of necessity be removed. When
trenches are prepared, it will be simply necessary to sow the seed
on the surface and cover with three inches of soil.

In sowing on the level the drill should be three inches in depth
and six inches in width at the bottom. The seed must then be

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. TT

distributed thinly and evenly over the bottom and covered carefully.
When sown in a very narrow drill and covered with lumpy soil, as
is frequently done, the growth is unsatisfactory from the first, and
in most instances the crop is less than it otherwise would be.

Broad and French beans should be planted with the hand ina
double row in each trench; the rows to be four inches apart, and
the seeds to be six inches apart in the rows. Ifa few miss it will be
a matter of no consequence. In sowing these things in heavy soil, it
is a most excellent plan to cover with fine soil, such as the siftings
from the potting bench mixed with wood ashes and vegetable refuse
decayed to a powder.

The surface of beds intended for onions, carrots, beetroots, and
similar things, cannot well be too fine, for the seeds are small, and
do not come up so strong and regularly when covered with rough
lumps. Soils of a heavy character seldom work well when newly
dug over, and a quarter which was turned over in the autumn, and
the surface thoroughly pulverized by tne action of the weather,
should be devoted to these crops. Drills for all these things should
be an inch in depth, and in the distance apart vary according to the
character of the crop. The drills for onions and carrots should be
twelve inches apart, parsnips fifteen inches, and beetroots eighteen
inches. After the seeds are sown and the drills filled in, the surface
should be well trodden and then raked over, and the alleys marked
out, and the beds finished off in the usual way.

It is customary to sow cabbage, lettuce, broccolis, and winter
greens in square beds; and as the plants become crowded imme-
diately they are a few inches in height, and spoilt unless transplanted
quickly, sowing in these beds cannot be recommended. But by
sowing in lines fifteen or eighteen inches apart, the plants have
sufficient room to acquire strength before it is needful to transplant,
and if from any cause a delay should arise, it will not matter much
if the plants remain a fortnight or so beyond the proper time. By
this plan of sowing, which I have had in practice for many years
past, a supply of short stocky plants is obtained, which at once
take possession of the soil when put out in their permanent quarters,
without any of the labour and worry incidental to transplanting
into nursery beds, so much recommended by some writers.

STENOGASTRA MULTIFLORA.

ME have selected this pretty subject as an example of a
(# genus of gesneraceous plants that amateurs have
¥ hitherto too much neglected. Not only stenogastra,
but eucodonia, nagelia, and other sections of the family
— are neglected, whereas they should have a little extra
attention because of their beauty, their rapid development, and the
very little trouble they occasion. The first requisite certainly is a
moist stove, which, perhaps, comparatively few amateurs possess,
But given this, the production of fine specimens of these handsome

March,

78 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

plants is one of the easiest tasks in horticulture. The two prin-
cipal agents of production are heat and moisture, and given these,
there is really very little to be said by way of direction. The ste-
nogastras, in common with others of the family, require a rich soil
and a half-shaded position. The plant before us produces lovely
lilac-tinted flowers in the style of a miniature gloxinia. Another

TSS

pretty plant of the same genus is Stenogastra concinna, which has
rich yiolet-coloured flowers dotted with purple. In case any critical
botanist should read this note, we are bound to add (just to show
that we know all about it) that Stenogastra multiflora is pronounced
by Messrs. Veitch, of Chelsea, to be a cross between Stenogastra
concinna and Mandizola lanata.

New Murzrerry.—The Revue Horticole speaks of a peculiar seedling variety
of a mulberry, raised by M. Brun, and which is remarkable for its extremely dwarf
tufted habit. During three years the stem has not attained more than about 18
inches, while other seedlings of the same batch have, in a like period, attained a
height of 9 or 10 feet. Now, in the ninth year of its existence, the dwarf variety
has a stem of less than 6 feet. The leaves are large, and retain their tufted cha-
racter. Apart from its curiosity, the dwarf variety is important in relation to the
plan of rearing silkworms in the open air, 2 plan alluded to by us in 1873, p. 773,
a recommended as a remedial or preventive measure in some forms of silkworm

isease,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 79

STRAWBERRIES AND GRAPES IN THE SAME HOUSE.
BY WILLIAM COLE,
Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex.

gem does not appear to be generally known by amateur
§ cultivators that really first-class crops of strawberries
may be obtained considerably in advance of those from
the open borders, without the aid of fire heat. Yet

— such is the case; for with the assistance of glass only
they come on very rapidly after they commence to make new growth

COMBINED GRAPE AND STRAWBERRY HOUSE,

in the spring, and the crop attains maturity long before it will be
possible to “gather ripe strawberries from the beds out of doors.
Splendid fruit may indeed be gathered from plants in a cool house,
when, at the wholesale rate, it is worth from eight to twelve
shillings per pound. This being the case, I have thought many
amateurs would be interested in knowing that good strawberries
may be had from houses in which crops of grapes are obtained
without forcing. The strawberry plants begin to grow a little
before the grape vines, and by the time the latter have covered the
roof with a canopy of green leaves, the crop of strawberries will be
ready for gathering.

One of the best forms of house for growing grapes and
strawberries together, is represented in the accompanying diagram.
In a house of this kind, the vines are trained up the roof, and the
pots containing the strawberries are placed on the stage, which is
three feet from the glass. The plants are watered from behind;
and as the shelves are eighteen inches apart, the plants can be

March.

80 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

lifted down and examined, should it appear needful. The young
growth of the vines will require training rather close to the main
rods until after the strawberry plants are removed, to afford the
latter all the light possible; but the vines will receive no harm
whatever, as the shoots can be tied out immediately the crop is
gathered. The staging must be made to be readily taken down when
no longer required, and as readily put up again in the spring. The
rests upon which the shelves are placed are fixed at the bottom to a
wooden sill, and at the top to the rafters, in each case with strong
screws, and are supported half-way up with stays, as shown in the
diagram. The shelves are six inches wide, and an inch in thick-
ness. Air is admitted at the top by sliding lights, and at the
bottom by means of openings in the front wall. In houses with
half-span roofs there is more room for watering the strawberry
plants, and the vines receive the advantage of more light than
would be the case in lean-to’s.

SHAKSPEARE’S WALL-FLOWERS.

‘¢ Flower in the crannied wall,
I pluck you out of the crannies ;—
Hold you here, root and all, in my hand,
Little flower—but if I could understand
What you are, root and all, and all in all,
I should know what God and man is.”
TENNYSON.

SUE wall-flower is described in the books as a biennial,

Not much, perhaps. As regards the place of the plant in the poet’s
works, it has no place, for he never mentions it, and so I have no
chance of a sentiment to begin with, and may as well make an end of
my essay as soon as possible. Three years ago I saw on the wall of
the chancel of the church at Stratford, a tiny, half-starved wall-
flower, with two pods of ripe seed on it. The position of the plant
was exactly where, by piercing the wall, we should come upon the
dust of Shakespeare. If I had been alone, I should certainly not
have touched the plant, for I never have indulged in that sort of
thing. But as one of the churchwardens was with me, I asked per-
mission to take away the ripe seed, and permission was granted.
The plants I obtained from those seeds proved, to my surprise, to be
good garden wall-flowers, pure yellow, neat habit, and as well adapted
for bedding as any in cultivation. I have now a fine lot of large

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 81

plants that began to show flowers before January was out, and are
now like miniature mountains of gold. Last year I saved a lot of
seed; but it was lost through not being looked after, and many friends
have upbraided me for not sending them a little. Now I will engage
to save and send to all who wish for a bit of seed of Shakespeare’s
Wall-flowers, for my plants will produce an enormous quantity.
Those who would like to have a few pods have but to send a stamped
and directed envelope to 5, Paternoster-row, and in due time it shall
be posted to them with two or three podsof the ripe seed. I should
certainly not offer this seed if the variety were of inferior quality ;
but in truth there is no better yellow wall-flower in cultivation, and
if the plants are allowed to stand, they willspread into dwarf bushes
two to three feet wide, and will flower with surprising freedom.
5.

NOTES ON CROTONS.
BY B. 8. WILLIAMS, F.R.H.S.,

(Author of “The Orchid Growers’ Manual,” etc.), Victoria and Paradise Nurseries,
Upper Holloway, N.

==¢MATEURS and others who possess the convenience for
the cultivation of stove plants, are not so much con-
cerned about the cultural requirements of crotons,
which comprise some of the most beautiful of plants
with ornamental leafage, as they are perplexed in
selecting the best varieties. During the last five or six years a
large number of new kinds have been introduced, and the list has
been augmented so considerably that the amateur, who has but few
opportunities for making comparisons, is necessarily at a loss to
know, if he requires half-a-dozen sorts, which to select. For the
purpose of assisting readers of the Froran Wor tp, I shall, after
making a few remarks on their cultivation, give a list of half-a-dozen
sorts, which are remarkable for beauty and distinctness. This is
the more especially necessary, as a few of the recently introduced
sorts are more remarkable as curiosities than they are for the value
they possess for decorative purposes.

In the first place, I would say that Crotons are more especially
valuable for the rich appearance they present in combination with
dracenas, and other dark-leaved plants during the winter season,
when there are not many flowers to brighten up the plant-houses.
They are of course very beautiful during the summer season, as
amply demonstrated by the fine specimens which are presented
annually at the principal exhibitions held in the metropolis and the
provinces. As they develop their true character and rich leaf-tints
at a very early stage, they present a most attractive appearance,
even when in a small state, and the varieties with long narrow leaves
are of great value for table decoration. The chief points in their
culture are a fibrous soil, well-drained pots, and a light and rather
airy position in the house. A compost consisting of good fibrous

March. 6

82 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

loam and peat, with a liberal addition of silver-sand, is, perhaps,
the most suitable, and, in shifting the plants into larger pots, it is
necessary to press it firm between the ball and the sides of the pots.
They require a light position because an abundance of light is neces-
sary for the development of the variegation. Plants grown in 4
moist, shady part of the house, will produce leaves almost wholly
green, and in time become quite unattractive ; but by placing them
ina light and airy position, those with yellow variegation will
become like a mass of burnished gold, and the others will also be
most brilliant. They must not in appearance be overpotted, as too
much root room is favourable to the development of green leafage,
and the production of this should, as far as possible, be avoided. At
the same time, they must not be so confined that they only produce
stunted growth and small leaves. With respect to watering, it will
suffice to say that they require moderate supplies at all times, and
that no liquid manure must be employed.

Very little training will be necessary ; those with slender leaves,
when intended for table decoration, should be allowed to run up with
a single stem to a height of twenty inches or so, and then be stopped.
The other kinds should be grown in the form of neat bushes, and
an occasional stopping of a too vigorous growth, and a little regu-
lation of the others, will suffice to produce most handsome specimens. —
Although requiring the temperature of a stove, they are rather hardy
in constitution, and if they are carefully prepared, they may be
placed in the drawing-room during the summer. The only prepa-
ration needed is to place them in the coolest and most airy end of
the house for a fortnight before taking them indoors, and to be care-
ful at first to place them where they will not be exposed to draughts.
Duplicate plants only should be employed for indoor decoration, in
case they should be injured.

The six kinds I should recommend for a small collection of stove
plants are :-—

C. angustifolium. A most elegant variety, with extremely long
slender gracefully-drooping leaves. The colouring is bright yellow,
and when fully developed, exceedingly rich. It is one of the best
for table decoration and grand for exhibition or ordinary decorative
purposes.

C. Johannis, a very beautiful form; the leaves nearly two feet
long, pendulous. The margins and midrib deep yellow on a bright
green ground. Well adapted to the same purposes as the pre-
ceding.

C. pictum. A magnificent plant, with leaves six to nine inches
long, superbly coloured rich crimson, with black and green spots.

C. undulatum. One of the most attractive varieties. The leaves
are of medium size, nearly yellow in their early stage, gradually
becoming more deeply coloured, and when mature are of a deep rich
green, richly painted and mottled with bright crimson. Very
effective and good.

CQ. Veitcht, A distinct form, with leaves upwards of twelve inches
in length, and nearly three inches in width, which in a young state
are mottled with pale yellow, changing with age to reddish purple.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 83

C. Weismanni. A very beautiful and elegant variety. The
leaves are a foot in length, and about three quarters of an inch
in width, and richly mottled with golden yellow on a green ground.
Fine for table decoration.

C. Youngi. A fine form, with long spreading leaves, heavily
blotched and marked with creamy yellow and deep rose. Under-
side deep red.

Those who require more than the number above, may add C.
magesticum and CU. elegantissima, both of which are very fine and
distinct ; but as yet they are scarce.

SILENE PENDULA COMPACTA.

eee LENE PENDULA has long been known as one of
Yssmv4) the most showy of annuals flowering early in the
spring, and for some years past it has been grown
largely for spring bedding. The variety of which a
much reduced illustration accompanies these remarks,

differs from the specific form in being much dwarfer, more compact
in habit, and far more effective when in bloom. On suitable soils
it blooms so profusely as to form one of the most effective of spring
bedders, as the plants present the appearance of dense cushions of
the loveliest pink. When the plants are far enough apart to admit
of their full development, they attain a diameter of twelve or fifteen
inches, and a height of six or eight inches, and become as densely
covered with flowers as in the figure.

It was raised several years since by Mr. W. Cole, the able chief
of the Ealing Park Gardens, and has had a certificate of the first
class conferred upon it by the Royal Horticultural Society. Seeds
can now be obtained of all the principal seedsmea.

March,

84 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
CUCUMBER DUKE OF EDINBURGH.

LARGE cucumbers
are not, as a rule, of
much value, except-
ing it be for exhi-
bition purposes ; but
in thevariety to which
we now direct the
attention of our
readers, we have a
noteworthy excep-
tion. It combines
with its large size
good flavour, and handsome appear-
ance; and the plant is comparatively
hardy in constitution, and very pro-
ductive. It belongs to the white-
spined class, and the fruit, in the
hands of a first-class cultivator, will
attain a length ranging from thirty
to thirty-six inches; but with ordi-
nary culture, and allowing the plants
to carry a full crop, the average
length will be a few inches less.
The fruit is also of an uniform
thickness throughout, and of a fine
deep green colour, and when cut
before attaining too large a size, a
well-matched brace will produce a
telling effect upon the exhibition
table. It can, therefore, be com-
mended for exhibition purposes as
well as for home consumption. It
was distributed last year, for the
first time, by Messrs. Daniels Bros.,
Royal Norfolk Seed Establishment,
Norwich, and as it has been sub-
jected to trial in various parts of the
country during 1874, its merits have
been thoroughly tested.

Whilst referring to this firm, we
feel bound to direct the attention of
our readers to the Jilustrated Guide
for Amateur Gardeners it has re-
cently published, for it is one of the
pest works of its class, and contains
everything in tke way of seeds ama-
teurs are likely to require, and is
freely illustrated with wood-cuts of
the leading flowers and vegetables of
which seeds are offered. GG:

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, 85

HERBACEOUS PAIONIES.
BY THOS. 8S. WARE,

Hale Farm Narseries, Tottenham, N.

= ERBACEOUS PAONIES grow so freely and bloom so

4, profusely under the most ordinary conditions, that they
well deserve to be planted liberally in all borders
devoted to hardy flowers. Furnished as they are with
7 large, ample leafage, and, in their season, with hand-
some, richly-coloured flowers, they are capable of producing the
most striking effect, especially when planted in groups of three or
four plants each. I have been induced to say a few words about
them, because many people suppose that the old double crim-
son peony, 80 common in cottage and country gardens, and one
or two other sorts, are the sole representatives of the family.
Instead of this being the case, there are a very considerable number
of splendid hybrids; and in my recently issued catalogue of florists’
flowers, I have entered nearly twenty as being especially note-
worthy. I know that the existence of these hybrids is not well
known, because of the surprise expressed by visitors to the nursery
when they are in bloom at seeing ponies with rosy pink, yellow,
and white flowers.

As regards cultivation, it is not necessary to say much, as they
grow and flower freely in any ordinary good soil. The main point
is to plant them in a position where they will receive some shelter
from north and easterly winds. They are hardy enough, so far as
their capabilities for resisting frost when dormant are concerned,
but they commence to grow early; and as the young growth is,
during the earliest stages, rather soft and succulent,'and it is injured
by late spring frosts if the plants are much exposed, they do
not, in consequence, bloom so satisfactorily as could be wished. The
young !eaves are of a rich red colour early in the spring, and large
masses have at that stage a very bright and attractive appearance ;
but as borders devoted to herbaceous plants are mostly sheltered,
more or less, by surrounding shrubs and trees, it will not be often
necessary to provide shelter expressly for them. They do very well,
and produce a good display of flowers, planted along the front of
shrubbery borders ; but they are the most telling when planted in
groups of about three plants each, at intervals of eight feet or so,
in the second or third row of the border devoted to hardy plants of
a similar character. In planting them in this manner, care should
of course be taken to arrange the colours so that the light and
dark varieties alternate throughout the entire length of the border.

As I have already said, they will grow in any ordinary good soil,
but they make more vigorous progress when planted in soil in good
heart; and a little manure may be added with the soil at the points
where the plants are to be put. This will give them a good start
from the first, and help to maintain them in a robust state for

March. %

* av

86 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

several years. Afterwards a little top dressing every second or
third year will suffice to ensure a most luxuriant growth, and a
plentiful production of flowers.

The following varieties have been selected from my large col-
lection, as eminently desirable in the smallest of gardens where
hardy herbaceous plants are cultivated :—

Archangel.—Rose lake, tipped with white, very double.

Cherub.—Outer petals carmine, centre pure white.

Desdemona.—Clear rose, large and double.

Duchesse d’Orleans.—Outer petals rose lake, centre salmon, fine.

Offcinalis rubra-plena.—The old double crimson.

Potsi.—Bright carmine, double, and very fine.

Queen Victoria.—Carmine pink, shading to white, large, and very
double.

Umbellata—Outer petals pale carmine, centre pale primrose.

Victoria Modesta.—Outer petals rose lake, centre pink tipped
with white.

Whitleyi.— White, with clear yellow centre.

SHORT NOTES ON USEFUL VEGETABLES.

ey now resume our cultural notes on useful vegetables
j| that require immediate attention to ensure good crops,
and commence with
Broccort.—This is one of the most important of
Bs vegetables, yet owing to the risk of the whole crop
being destroyed in severe weather, it is not well adapted for very
small gardens, for in these it is of the highest; importance to turn
every yard of ground to good account. The cultivator should aim
at securing a succession from autumn until late in the spring, and
to do thisit is needful to sow early sorts the first or second week in
March ; the midseason sorts early in April; and the latest kinds
towards the end of the same month. Sow rather thinly in beds or
drills in an open position, and select a quarter which has been
manured liberally and stirred deeply ; and commence to plant out
when the plants have acquired sufficient strength. The early sorts
should be thirty inches apart each way, and those for late supplies
two feet. If the weather is dry at planting time, supply liberally
with water until they are established. The caterpillar, which fre-
quently does so much mischief, must be kept under by hand-picking
and dustings of soot or lime. Deep cultivation, an abundance of
manure, and awarm soil are the main points in the cultivation of
Broccolis. For cutting in autumn, the best are Grainger’s Autumn
White and White Cape; for midwinter, Snow's Winter White and
Sutton’s Superb Early White ; for early spring, Sutton’s Perfection,
Cooling’s Matchless, and The Leamington; for late spring, Lauder’s
Superb White, Cattell’ s Eclipse, and Carter’s Summer.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 87

CreLery.—To produce celery of first-class quality, it must be kept
growing freely from the time the plants are up until the earthing-up
commences. Sow the seed in shallow pans in March and April,
and place in heat for early and late crops respectively. Prick out
when large enough to handle, on a bed of rich friable soil made up
in acold frame. Shade during the first few days, and keep rather
moist. Then water liberally, and ventilate freely. Prepare the
trenches by making them a foot or so deep, and then add six inches
of manure. In preparing the trenches, throw out the uncongenial
soil from the bottom, and not the well-pulverized stuff from near the
surface. Lift the plants carefully, and shade and water moderately
until established. Then water liberally, and use liquid manure ocea-
sionally, if available. Commence to earth up when nearly fuil
grown, and take advantage of dry weather for the work, and be
careful to avoid filling the hearts with soil. The earthing-up of both
early and late crops must be completed before severe weather sets in.
The very best red celery is Leicester Red, and the best white,
Incomparable White. The first-mentioned is decidedly the best for
main crops, as it is perfectly white when prepared for the table.

Carrots.—A deeply stirred and rather friable soil is one of the
chief essentials in the cultivation of carrots. Sow the early sorts,
such as the Short Horn, on warm borders, and draw for use as they
become large enough, and the main-crop kinds in lines twelve inches
apart in an open situation. Thin to six inches, and as they become
large enough for table, thin to twelve inches apart. By this means,
an abundant supply of young carrots will be obtained throughout the
summer, without in any way interfering with the crop required for
winter use. The Altringham and Long Surrey are the most profit-
able for main crops; but for shallow soils, James’ Intermediate is the
most suitable. This will require thinning to nine inches apart
onl]

Sima .—These are useful for planting on sunny banks, and the
ripe fruit of the edible kinds is valuable for soups and other purposes
during the winter. Sow in pots in March, pot off separately, and
plant out towards the end of May on a bed of manure or rich
soil. They may also be sown where they are to remain about the
middle of May. The vines should not be stopped.

LeEexs.—Thbis vegetable requires much the same cultivation as
celery, with the exception that it is not needful to sow in heat, or
nurse the young plants under glass. Sow in March, in the open
ground, and plant in trenches a foot deep, prepared as for celery, in
May and June. When of good size, earth up, and the result will be
a fine large and tender leek for stewing. When required for soups,
it will suffice to plant in beds six inches apart.

On1on.—In the production of heavy crops of first-class quality, a
deep loamy soil is of prime importance. It should be dug over
roughly in the autumn, to insure its thorough pulverization, and
manured if not already in good heart from the previous crop. Sow
in March in drills twelve inches apart in four-feet beds, cover with
half an inch of soil, and tread firmly. Thin early and before they
suffer from crowding, and regulate the distance according to the sort.

March.

88 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Keep free from weeds during the summer ; and in cold seasons, un-
favourable to their ripening, bend down the tops with the back of a
rake. For pickling, sow thickly on poor soil in May. To obtain
exhibition specimens of the Giant Rocca and other Italian varieties,
sow in August, and transplant in the spring to a foot apart. Select
rich soil, and supply liberally with liquid manure. Improved Reading
and Bedfordshire Champion are the best for autumn and winter use,
and James’ Long Keeping for spring use; Giant Rocca for mild
flavour ard for exhibition; and the Paris Silver-skinned and Early
White Nocera for pickling,

Poratozs.—Almost any soil will produce good crops of potatoes,
provided it has been dug over deeply, and liberally manured, unless
in good heart from the manure provided for the previous crop. A
warm dry soil, fully exposed, is the most suitable for potatoes, and
cold, heavy clays the worst. Medium-sized sets should be selected,
and a month or so before planting be spread out in a dry room to
encourage the production of short purple sprouts. The month of
March is the most suitable for planting potatoes, and the rows
should for the early sorts be eighteen inches apart, and for the late
sorts from three to four feet ; and to avoid any loss of ground, winter
greens may be planted between the rows. Plant from twelve to
eighteen inches apart in shallow trenches, and cover with six inches
of soil, and earth up as required. The names of the best sorts for
gardens were given in last issue of the Froran Worzp.

Parstey.—To insure a liberal supply of this herb, make two
sowings, one in March ard one in June. Thin to four inches apart,
and to make sure of a supply in severe weather, fill a cold frame in
September with strong plants from the June sowing. A deep rich
soil is the most suitable.

Panrsnips.—The production of large handsome roots is not diffi-
cult, provided the soil has been dressed liberally with manure,
trenched over to a depth of eighteen inches, and well broken up.
Sow in drifts fifteen inches apart, and thin to nine inches apart. The
roots may be lizted in the autumn and stored in dry sand, or left in
the bed and taken up as required for use.

Ravisu.—The most delicate crops are obtained by sowing in
rich, well-pulverized soil. The earliest and latest crops should be
gown on warm borders, and the summer crops in rather shady situa-
tions. The beds sown in March should be protected at night with
mats or long litter. Wood’s Marly Frame is one of the best for
sowing early, the French Breakfast for successional sowings, and the
White and Scarlet Turnip for heavy summer crops.

Sprrnacu.—For summer crops, commence sowing early in March,
and continue sowing at intervals of three weeks until the beginning
of May. For winter and spring use, sow in August and September.
The soil for the summer crops must be in good heart, but for the
winter crops it should be rather poor, and the beds be raised six or
nine inches above the surface. The Rownd-seeded is the best for
spring sowing, and the Prickly for autumn sowing.

Tomato.—It is important to put out strong plants early, and to
secure these, sow in heat in March, pot off separately when large

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 89

enough, and towards the end of April shift into six-inch pots.
When all danger from frost is past, plant three feet apart against a
south wall. Train regularly, and stop from time to time. After
sufficient fruit is set, nip off the young shoots as they make
their appearance. A sandy soil is preferable, but they are by no
means particular in reference to this point. Hathaway’s Excelsior
is the best for main crops.

Turxips.—Small breadths only should be sown early, but to-
wards the end of June and during July large breadths may be sown
for use during autumn, winter, and spring. If the fly makes its
appearance, dust the beds with soot early in the morning, when the
plants are moist with dew. The soil cannot well be too rich, espe-
cially for the summer and autumn crops. The drills should be from
twelve to eighteen inches apart, and the plants be thinned eight or
ten inches apart in the rows, according to the sorts. The Short-top
Six Weeks is the best for spring sowing, Veitch’s Red Globe and
White Stone for summer sowing, and Green-topped Six Weeks and
Chirk Castle for sowing to stand over the autumn.

Vecrrasiz Marrow.—To obtain a supply as early as possible,
sow in heat early in March, pot off separately into five-inch pots, and
plant out towards the end of May on a bed raised a foot or so above
the surface, and cover at night, for the first fortnight, with hand-
glasses. Fora main or later crop, sow in the beds where the plants
are to remain, and put two seeds where each plant is to be.
Hibberd’s Prolific and Short-jointed Long White are the most useful.

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR MARCH.

«© Dear children ! when the fiowers are full of bees ;
When the sun-touched blossoms shed their fragrant snow ;
When song speaks like a spit, from the trees,
Whose kindled greenness hath a golden glow ;
When, clear as music, rill and river flow,
With trembling hues, all changeful, tinted o’er
By that bright pencil which good spirits know
Alike in earth and heavyen—'tis sweet once more,
Above the sky-tinged hills to see the storm-bird soar.

**°Tis passing sweet to wander, free as air,
Blithe truants in the bright and breeze-blessed day,
Far from the town—where stoop the sons of care
O’er plains of mischief till their souls turn gray,
And dry as dust, and dead-alive are they—
Of all self-buried things the most unblessed ;
O morn! to them no blissful tribute pay!
O nigbt’s long-courted slumbers! bring no rest
To men who laud man’s foes, and deem the basest best.’’
ExsEngzer ELiiorr.

aq) URICULAS are now growing freely, and want frequent supplies of
J} water and abundance of air when there is no frost.

Beppine Piants.—Cuttings put in now will bear more heat than
those put in a month ago, as vegetation is more active with the advance
of the season. There is plenty of time now to raise stock of Verbenas,
Petunias, Fuchsias, and Lobelias, and they will bear a moist temperature of 75° to
advantage.

Box Eporyes made now will do far better than in autumn. If the weather is

March.

90 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

dry after planting, keep newly-planted box well watered, as if a few plants die, the
unsightly gaps are not easily mended in the height of summer.

Broccoxt for autumn use to be sown in small quantities this week and next.

Canpace Crors of all kinds to be cleared off the ground as soon as possible, to
make room for spring produce.

Cauczorartias of the shrubby kind to be shifted on as soon as they fill their
pots with roots.

CamELutAs out of bloom to have a higher temperature and a moist atmosphere,
to promote the new growth.

Carsicums anp ToMatosrs to be potted off and put in a moderate heat, to
encourage new roots. Use light rich soil.

CavLirLowers will be growing now that the weather is milder. Give air by
tilting the lights, and let them have warm showers.

CELERY sown early will now require to be pricked out into boxes on a slight
hotbed.

CuryYsANTHEMUMS to be propagated now in quantity.

CINERARIAS are now coming to their full splendour, and must have constant
attention, Use manure-water twice a week. Tie outspecimens in good time.
‘Those only just showing their trusses may have a shift, so as to form fine plants
late in the season.

ConsERvAToRY to be kept moderately close while east winds prevail, or the
plants in flower will suffer. No need for fire-heat now unless there are many
newly-introduced stove plants. Water the borders liberally ; stop climbers.

Cucumpers.—Newly-established beds should be carefully aired every morning,
to let off rank steam and prevent damping. Stop regularly before the fruit; never
allow any runner to go away neglected, or the distribution of the sap will be un-
equal, and the fruiting unsatisfactory.

Figs will now require plentiful syringing and literal waterings. Stop all the
shoots at about six inches long, and keep the temperature as steady as possible.

Ericas require at this season a general repotting and revision. Give them
small shifts, using abundance of drainage and a gritty peat full of fibre.

Frencu Beans in the forcing-house must be kept very near the light, and have
a brisk temperature.

Guraniums of the zonal type that have been kept in pits, windows, and coo)
houses, in a rather dry state, now require pruning and a little water. If they can
be put in a warm house, to give them a start, they will bloom earlier. Those that
are to be flowered in pots require a shift; those that are to be turned out into beds
may remain in pots as they are.

Hersacrous Prants,—Continue to divide and plant the borders. The early-
blooming kinds are now coming into flower, and may be propagated from cuttings
as soon as the bloom is over.

Orcuip House will require an abundance of atmospheric moisture now, and
general attention to plants newly potted, and those coming into seasonal growth.

Orcuarp Hovsz. — Trees in bloom to have air in abundance. Some slight
agitation among the blossoms will help to set them. Keep the air as dry as pos-
sible till the fruit is set, and while stoning be very careful not to let them get
either too wet or too dry at the root. Trees swelling their fruit in the early house
to be assisted with manure-water.
, Pawstus in beds and borders to be spread out, and their long stems covered to
within two inches of the point of each.

Pras AND Beans to be earthed up as needful. If slugs abound, strew wood-
ashes or soot along the rows. Sow again, if required, for succession.

PrLarconiums for exhibition require constant attention. Give plenty of air to
strong plants and manure-water, rather weak, every five or six days.

Porators may be planted for main crops. The sets should be hard, dark green ;
the sprouts short and purple; the soil ina dry state, and quite pulverulent, and
the sets trenched in.

Propacatine to be carried on with spirit, that the bedding and other summer
stock may be strong when required to be turned out. Sow in heat Brachycoma,
Phlox, Portulucca, Schizanthus, Stock, Cocksecomb, Globe Amaranth, Balsam,
Zinnia, ete, Fine plants for bloom this season may be had by putting in euttings

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 94a

now of Fpchsias, Geraniums, Salvias, Heliotropiums, Verbenas and Potunias,
Those struek early will now require stopping and shifting. ;

Ruvsars.—Ii new plantations are wanted fornext season, now is the time to
make them. Choose deep rich soil, trench and manure, and plant stout pieces of
good varieties, with one plump eye to each.

Sprvacu to be sown in successive breadths between rows of peas.

Srove Crimpers must be encouraged to grow fast, and training must he de-
layed as long as it is safe to do so, as training checks the growth.

Srove Pranrs must be shifted and repotted as required. Nearly every plant
in the house will need some attention of the kind, either to give more root-room or
to refresh with new compost.

Succuents wanting larger pots, they should now be shifted, and the soil used
should be a mixture of lime rubbish, broken bricks, turfy loam, and a little cow-
dung, with plenty of drainage crocks in the bottoms of the pots. Plenty of light,
plenty of water, when in free growth, and a genereus temperature, are requisite to
produce a good bloom.

Watt Frurrs are now pushing into bloom, and protecting material should be
put up at once, if not done already. Beware of coddling the trees by means of
shelter; sunshine and air are beneficial—frost and rain do the mischief ; a breeze
playing among the blossoms helps to set the pollen.

Vines to be thinned of their superfluous bunches as soon as the berries are
fairly set, and the thinning to be done with a bold hand, Thin the shoots, always
insuring the natural shade of leaves for the bunches. Inside borders to be kept
warm, and be liberally watered.

—

BRITISH WILD FLOWERS,
CONSIDERED IN THEIR RELATION TO INSECTS.
BY SIR JOHN LUBBOCK, BART., M.P., F.B.S.

=sg)PRANGEL, in his book published at the close of the last century, was

| the first to throw a light upon the connection existing between insects
and flowers, and to point out that not only the form, size, and shape of
the latter, but the lines and dots upon them, had reference to this con-
nection. This discovery excited but little attention till Darwin took up
the subject in bis work on orchids, since when much more has been learnt from the
investigations of Axel, Delpino, Hildebrandt, Muller, Noble, Bennett, and Dr.
Hooker. Sprangel was the first to discover that insects, notably bees, serve to
transfer the pollen from the stamens to the pistils. They do not, as a rule,
transfer the pollen of the stamen to the stigma of the same flower, but to that of
another, and, as any gardener knows, better seed and more of it is to be obtained
by this cross fertilization. There are three classes of plants that are not self-
fertilizing : the first in which the stamens and pistils are in separate flowers ; the
second in which they are in the same flower, but do not mature at the same time;
and the third in which, although both are contained in the same flower, it is im-
possible from their position for the pollen to get to the stigma. In flowers that do
not fertilize themselves the pollen is chiefly conveye by the wind or by insects—
though water, and even snails, serve in some instances. Plants fertilized by wind
are notable for an unusually large discharge of pollen—as in the Scotch fir and the
nut tribes—and very prominent pistils. They flower mostly in early spring, when
there are no leaves to catch the pollen. In insect-fertilized plants it is clearly
shown that the flowers are indebted for size and colour to the insects. The common
mallow and the round-leafed mallow are instances of this. They are almost iden-
ticalin all but size and shape of flower. The former has a large and attractive
blossom, but the stigma stands straight up, and the stamens bend down, so that 1
cannot fertilize itself, and depends upon the insects it attracts. The flower of the

March.

92 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

round-leafed mallow is small and unattractive, but the stigma bends down amongst
the stamens, and tlie services of insects are not needed. A similar fact is to be
noticed in the various branches of the geranium family. In some of the larger.
varieties the stamens do not come to maturity till the stigma is shrivelled up;
whilst in the smaller the stamens fertilize the stigma themselves, Of the
three classes mentioned, the process of fertilization when the stamens and pistils
are on different plants, or on different flowers on the same plant, is well
known, In those in which the maturity of the stamens and pistils takes place at
various times, some of the provisions are very interesting. In the aristolochia, a
long, tubular flower, there is a fringe of little hairs, all pointing inwards. Here
the pistil matures before the stamens. Flies go inside, and are entrapped by the
hairs, which, sloping inwards, prevent their egress till the stamens have matured,
and the prisoner is coyered with their pollen. Then the hairs shrivel up, and the
insect flies off to fertilize other plants. In the arum, the well-known lord and
lady, a precisely similar arrangement is observable. Inthe nasturtium and several
other plants, on the other hand, the anthers shed their pollen, and die before the
stigma appears. The common heath has a pistil like the clapper of a bell, with a
ring of stamens, each anther having a curious process attached to it, filling up
the space. A bee thrusting up his proboscis comes in contact with the pistil; and
if his proboscis is covered with pollen, fertilizes it. If not, he goes on till he
touches the processes which separate the chain of anthers. Each anther has a
hole init, which is blocked up by its neighbour, and when this separation takes
place, the pollen runs out of this on to the bee’s head. In the common white
nettle, and in the salvia, the provisions for fertilization are very striking. ‘The
Umbellifere, of which the carrot is an instance, have masses of small flowerets.
Here the stamens mature first, and the pollen is rubbed off on to the underside of
the bees, and so conyeyed to the pistils of neighbouring plants.

The common daisy is an example of the composites. It is a bunch of tiny
flowerets, the outer ones red and white, and the inner ones yellow tubes. The
anthers are at the top of these tubes, and the pollen falls into them. ‘The pistils
then push up in these tubes, and force the pollen out. When the pollen is removed
the pistils come out, and divide into two stigmas. In the sweet pea and its kindred
flowers with five petals—namely, the standard, the two wings, and the two forming
the keel, the pressure of a bee alighting forced out the stamens, and in the early
purple orchis a bee’s proboscis on going in brings out, attached to it, the two pollen
masses, an experiment which can be made with a blade of grass. In the lady’s-
slipper, an insect on entering finds the outlet closed, and can only make his way
out at the top of the flower. Passing by the stigma he gets smeared with a
sticky substance, to which the pollen attaches itself, and is borne away to other
plants. The cowslip and primrose present the feature of some of the flowers on
one plant having pistils at the top and stamens at the bottom, and others the re-
verse. A bee plunging his proboscis into one of them has one part of it brought
into contact with the stamen, and the other with the stigma, In the next flower,
perhaps, the part that touched the stamen comes into contact with a stigma,
whilst that which touched a stigma gathers a supply of pollen from a stamen.
In the lythrum, with its stamens and pistils ot different lengths, this is also
instanced. It has been proved by Darwin’s experiments that a lythrum fertilized
by 5 pollen of flowers of a different arrangement to its own gives better developed
Seed,

If insects have an influence on flowers, flowers have one on insects, notably on
bees. The mouths and legs of bees differ from those of other insects. ‘The lips
of bees are greatly modified. A wasp can only get honey from such flowers as
that of the ivy, whilst a halictus or a bumble-bee can plunge its proboscis into
almost any flower, save such as the honeysuckle, which are for motlis and butter-
flies. Similarly the prosopis has a bare leg, the halictus a hairier leg, and the
common hiye-bee and bumble-bee very hairy legs, and an arrangement of the
thighs for carrying home masses of pollen moistened by honey. ‘The sleep of
flowers is another question worth attention. Certain flowers sleep at night, and
others only bloom at night. The last are sweet and pale-coloured, so that they
might be conspicuous, and are without the spots and stripes that served to attract
insects in the day-blooming flowers, but which would not be noticed by night.
Other flowers only open at certain hours of the day, when the insects which fer-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 93

tilized them are about. It is true that all flowers do not seem to be benefited by
insects, but there is a perpetual change going on, insects and flowers are constantly
tending to adapt themselves to one another, and altering as to structure and geogra-
phical limits. Many flowers are indebted to insects for their very existence, and
honey, scent, and the arrangement of colour, all have reference to their acts.

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

SHE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY held its Annual Meeting
3 on the 9th ult., the President, Viscount Bury, in the chair. The report
presented to the fellows of the Society was not considered satisfactory,
and after a long discussion, on the motion of Mr. Shirley Hibberd, the
meeting was adjourned until the 9th inst., to afford the Council an
opportunity for reconsidering it. The President, in recommending the adoption of
the report, stated that the Council had paid off about £2000 of the debts which had
accumulated prior to the preseut members coming into office, and that they intended
to reduce the expenses of the current year by about £2000.

An Exurpirion or Poratozs in the forthcoming autumn is in process of
organization, the initiator of the movement being Peter McKinlay, Esq., Woodbine
House, Beckenham. Mr. Shirley Hibberd is co-operating with the originator of the
movement, and a committee is in course of formation for taking the necessary steps
in the matter.

GARDENERS’ Roya BenrvoLent Instrtutron.—The thirty-second anniver-
sary dinner of this charity will take place at the London Tavern on July 2, under
the presidency of Robert Broadwater, Esq., Master of the Worshipful Company of
Fruiterers.

Mr. Peacock, of Sudbury House, Hammersmith, with a view to encourage a
more spirited competition amongst amateur growers of succulents, will not, he in-
forms us, compete for any prizes offered for these plants during the current year.

Dormant ViTatity.—In the last number of the Revue Horticole, M. Carriére
figures and describes an instance where a bud of Chionanthus inserted on Fraxinus
Ornus had Jain dormant for fourteen years. The Fraxinus was, it appears, cut
down and the stumps left above ground, and from the latter proceeded strong
shoots of the Chionanthus. If no mistake has been made by M. Carriére in the
length of time the buds have been inserted, the case is remarkable in being probably
the longest duration of dormant vitality on record.

Porato Prizes.—Fifty guineas is offered by Messrs. Hooper and Co., Covent
Garden, W.C., in prizes for the largest produce from one pound of seed of Snow-
flake and Eureka, two new American potatoes now being distributed at 3s. 6d. per
pound. The competition is to be limited to Huropean cultivators, and the money is
equally divided between the two sorts.

SENECIO MACROGLOssts has been recently figured in the Botanical Magazine,
and is well deserving the notice cf cultivators of greenhouse plants. It has glossy
leaves, bearing a close resemblance to those of the ivy, and produces in midwinter
large bright yellow flowers, which remain a long time in perfection. Dr. Hooker
considers it well adapted for cultivation in rooms, It isa native of the Cape, and
has been growing in the succulent house at Kew.

SrarpHyLeA PINNATA, or Bladder Nut, has been recently sent to Covent Garden
as a forced flower. The leaves are coarse, but the pretty white flowers are well
adapted for button-hole and other bouquets. ‘he appearance of this old plant asa
market flower appears to be of sufficient interest to be placed on record. The
flowers remain a long time in perfection, and appear to singular advantage under
the influence of artificial light.

Wrxrer Crocvses were retarded considerably by the severe weather, ard did
not come into bloom until nearly the end of January. The first to bloom with us
were (: imperati and C. nivalis, and these were closely followed by C. chrysan=
thus. ‘The first and third of these have rich yellow flowers, and those of the other
are of a bright bluish purple. In mild seasons these crocuses present a most
cheerful appearance during January, and may with advantage be planted somewhat
liberally along the front of borders, within view of the drawing-room windows.

March,

94 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

They are as yet rather scarce, and more expensive than the Dutch varieties, now
so much employed in spring bedding.

Tue Cameti1a Hovsz in the nursery of Messrs. J. Veitch and Son is now re-
markably gay, and forms one of the most attractive features of this justly famous
nursery. The house is lofty and of considerable length, and has a broad walk down
the centre, with borders on each side. The Camellia bushes are planted in two
borders, and as they are in the most luxuriant health, and densely furnished with
bloom, they are now wonderfully attractive.

Perstan Oyoramens have for some years past received special attention in the
nurseries of Mr. B. 8S. Williams, Upper Holloway, and during the last six weeks
or so they have presented a most beautiful appearance, and have fully demonstrated
the value of these flowers for decorative purposes during the early part of the year.
We have recently received from Mr. Williams blooms of a magnificent variety,
which he purposes distributing shortly under the name‘of Cyclamen persicum gigan-
teum, ® name to which it is well entitled, so large are the flowers.

Or1cin or Fucusra Riccarroni.—The following particulars of the introduc-
tion of this beautiful hardy fuchsia, recently contributed to the Gardener's Chronicle
by Mr. Tillery, of Welbeck, will probably be of some interest to our readers. Mr.
Tillery says :—‘‘ When I was a gardener in Ayrshire, a young man of the name of
Buchanan came from either the Glasgow or Edinburgh Botanic Garden, to be gar-
dener at Caprington Castle, near Riccarton, Kilmarnock. He brought a plant of
a seedling Fuchsia with him under the name of a hardy Fuchsia, from Port Famine,
on the Southern American coast of Terra del Fuego. This Fuchsia he told me
was raised from seed in the Botanic Garden he came from, and [had a plant of it
from him, and when propagated introduced it into the ueighbouring island of
Arran, where the climate was likely to suit it better in the open air than in
Ayrshire. Whether he gave it the name of Riccartoni from the suburb of Riccar-
ton, near the Castle, I know not, but the plant is the same, and in the western
isles of Scotland, the south of Ireland, and the southern counties of England and
Wales, it is hardy, and forms one of the grandest flowering hardy shrubs or trees
that has ever been introduced.” There are in the grounds of the Crystal Palace,
Sydenham, several large bushes of this Fuchsia quite five feet in height, and these
during the summer and autumn are loaded with their brilliant red flowers, and have
a splendid appearance.

LaraGerias appear to be much hardier than is generally supposed to be the
case. In the gardens of Gunnersbury Park, Acton, the residence of Baron Roths-
child, a strong plant of the beautiful Lapageria alba is trained over the roof of a
low span-roof house. In the course of last year a vigorous shoot thrust its way
through an opening in the woodwork, and was nailed to the north side of the
house, and although fully exposed to the severe weather in December and January
last, does not appear to have suffered in the slightest degree. In the: nurseries of
Messrs. Lucombe, Pince and Co., at Exeter, Lapageria rosea grows freely and
blooms profusely trained to an open wall. From this it would appear to be well
adapted for planting out of doors in kind climates.

Tur ComMprtTition ror THE CARTER Cup, and other prizes offered in the
schedules of the Society by Messrs. James Carter and Co., for competition at the
Society’s Great Provincial Show, has now been arranged to take place on July 7,
at the Society’s Cardens, South Kensington.

Tue American Porato TriAt.—The New York Tribune publishes the results
of a competition among potato-growers, originated in the spring of last year by
Messrs. B. K. Bliss and Sons, of New York, who offered premiums to a considerable
amount, hoping “as much to stimulate interest in improved methods of cultiva-
tion as to induce an extended trial of varieties, in the dissemination of which they
were interested.” The varieties specially selected were Extra Early Vermont,
Compton’s Surprise, and Brownell’s Beauty, the prizes being-awarded to those who
raised the largest quantity from 1 1b. of seed, and on a quarter of au acre of ground
respectively. The largest quantity obtained from 1 lb. of Extra Early Vermont
was 708 lb.; from Compton’s Surprise, 9001b.; and from Brownell’s Beauty,
1018 lb. The largest produce of a quarter of an acre of Extra Karly Vermont was
6247 lb.; of Compton’s Surprise, 7350 1b. ; and Brownell’s Beauty, 8899 lb. ** The
Committee, Messrs. G, Thurber, F, M. Hexumer, and P. T, Quinn, assure us that,
while abstaining from comment on the ‘astounding yields from single pounds,’ a

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 95

“most careful and scrupulous investigation’ las fully satisfied them of ‘ the cor-
rectness of the statements.’ Of the merits of the potatoes, as developed under this
later and more extended test, it is said that there is general acknowledgment of the
‘superiority of the Vermont as an early variety, both for market and table, in fact,
the earliest and best in cultivation ;’ that Compton’s has given not less satisfaction
as a potato of the highest quality, and that Brownell’s beauty, the newest of the
three, has made ‘a most splendid record,’ not only giving ‘much the largest re-
turns,’ both from the single pound and the quarter acre, but eliciting ‘ unanimous
praise of all cultivators.’ ”’

Tue New Frowers or 1875.—In such a list as we are now remarking upon,
certain iter:s are to be regarded as matters of course. There are so many new
achimenes, amaryllis, begonias, and so forth, and it is fair to conclude that they
have some qualities to recommend them, especially as a considerable proportion of
the whole have passed through the ordeal of exhibition, and haye been certificated
or commended or distinguixhed by money prizes. But some of the features are
especially interesting, as will appear from the facts. ‘There are 30 new azaleas, of
which a very large proportion are of the so-called “Ghent,” or hardy race. Of
chrysanthemums there are 16, which might suggest a revival of bright days within
the remembrance of many, but, as only 6 out of the number are worth attention,
we may conclude that the workers in this department are very few or very un-
fortunate. There are but 6 new dahlias, and they are all fine. Ofnew gladioli
there are 54 varieties, of which ro less than 18 are offered by Messrs. Kelway and
Son, whose seedlings carry us beyond the Continental model, both in size and sub-
stance of flower, while the plants have a corresponding vigour of constitution.
There are 15 new hyacinths, and ouly 20 zonals, of which Dr. Denny con-
tributes 17; a very curious contrast with the lists of five to ten years ago.
What shall we say of 33 new varieties of polyanthus, of which 14 are of the laced
show strain that everybody declared extinct ? We can only compare the last num-
ber with the preceding to be convinced that it is impossible to predicate the course
of events in floriculture — twenty zonals and thirty-three pelyanthuses! we can
hardly hope to be believed, yet the case is stated in black and white, but whether
to edify or mystify we do not know. There are 65 new roses! ‘The true rosa-
rian will respond by declaring the number preposterous, and yet they will all
be in demand, in accordance with the ridiculous custom of the trade, and the
misdirection of the zeal of amateurs. ‘There are 12 out of the total accredited to
English raisers, and these have been frequently exhibited, and seen at home as
well; so that there can be but few amongst the many who are interested in new
roses without means of estimating their value, and determining without prejudice
as to the advisability of purchasing them.

SrEpLines iv Competition. — It is one of the curiosities of exhibiting that
seedlings are rarely encouraged in a sensible manner. In some cases seedling
dahlias are put up with named varieties for schedule prizes, and the competitor in
the same class who does not raise seedlings, finds himself at a disadvantage
because the competition is on unequal terms. It is the same- with carnations,
picotees, and a host of florists’ flowers : the raiser of seedlings has the start before
all. If he has no first-class novelties, he trusts to named sorts, and has no advan-
tage, but must win or lose on equal terms with the rest. But he may have half-
a-dozen new flowers that distance everything in their class, and as the sole pos-
sessor of these he is bound to win over everybody’s head, provided the rest of
his stuff is of average merit. Un the other hand, there is rarely any definite
and substantial recognition of seedling florists’ flowers offered for the encourage-
ment of raisers, and in consequence of the deficiency of schedules, it is the rule of
experienced judges to have a final look round for such things, and they make
awards without direction, and outside the whole of the schedule scheme. Never~
theless seedlings can be best judged at a schedule competition, for there we have
numbers of samples of established varieties to compare them with ; in fact, they
cannot be fairly judged, except by the aid of such comparisons, and hence a com-
prehensive exhibition should include classes for new varieties of all the more im-
portant florist’s flowers consistently with the season, and other circumstances. Good
money prizes would bring forward many an interesting group to the advantage of a
provincial exhibition, and the value to amateurs of their presentation would be
immense. We have butone generally recognized court of award for such things

March.

96 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

at present—the Floral Committee at South Kensington. It ig a good court, and
its work, all things considered, is well done. Considering how numerous are the
so-called ‘“floricultural ” societies, it is really astonishing how little is attempted
for the real advance of floriculture.— Gardener's Magazine.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Puantine Frowrr Beps.—H. 1.—The four corner beds may be planted in ac-
cordance with your wishes, but to produce a good effect the dark-leaved plants must
be put in the centre of the two beds, and thie golden-leayed bedders round the outside,
as the former will grow much too tall for the latter. Coleus Verschaffelti, Ama-
ranthus melancholicus ruber, Iresine Lindeni, and Perilla nanhinensis are all
free growing dark-leaved bedders, 'The Coleus will require as much warmth during
the winter as the Alternantheras, but as they are of larger growth they may be
planted farther apart. The Amaranthus is readily raised from seed sown in the spring,
and as it is exceedingly bright and effective it may be employed with considerable
advantage, provided the situation is not bleak, nox the soil cold and heavy. The
Iresine isrich in colour and hardier in constitution than either of the four plants
mentioned, the Perilla alone excepted ; but it is rather tall in growth, and unless
it is planted in a slanting direction, and the leading shoots pegged down, thére
is some difficulty in keeping it down toa height less than twelve inches. It will
stand severe pinching, but it is so long-jointed that there is some difficulty in
keeping them down sufliciently. The most satisfactory results are obtained by
pegging the principal shoots down, and then pinching the side shoots as may be
required. The Perilla may be raised in quantities very readily, and pinched to
keep it down to the required height, It is coarse in appearance, as compared with
the other three things. Either golden-leaved Geraniums or Golden Feather will do
for the formation of the outer band, and you might edge one of the beds with
Geraniums and the other with the Golden Feather. This would give a greater
variety, and at the same time maintain a balance of colour, You may alse fill
one of the beds with Coleus and the other with Amaranthus ; or you may, in fact,
employ any two of the four plants enumerated. ‘The outer band should be from
six to nine inches in width. The other two beds will have the most effective
appearance if they have a thin line of Cerastium tomentosum next the grass, then
a single row of Blue Lobelias, and the centre filled with Centaurea ragusina. The
two best Lobelias for the purpose are Blue Stone and Lustrous, and they are here
placed in their order of merit. ‘The centre of both beds may be filled with a good
variegated Geranium if there is any difficulty in procuring a sufficient stock of
Centaureas. The best variety for the purpose is Miss Kingsbury, but Flower of
Spring, Princess Alexandra, or Queen of Queens would also be suitable. The
flowers should be removed. cheveria secunda glauca may be substituted for the
Cerastium. The finest effect would certainly be produced by panel bedding, but
as you are unable to provide a stock of suitable plants it is useless to refer to it.
The following strangement would most probably be suitable for the borders :—
Cerastium tomentosum, first row ; Lobelia speciosa or Lobelia Blue Stone, second
row; Variegated Geranium (either of the varieties mentioned above), third row ;
Geranium Mrs. Upton, G. Hibberd’s Feast of Roses, or any other first-class pink
flowered varieties, fourth row ; Geranium Bonfire, G. David Garrick, G. Duke of
Devonshire, or other good scarlet-flowered variety of rather robust habit, for the
fifth or back row. In planting ribbon borders much, however, depends upon their
length, position, and surroundings.

Oranae Trees.—Flora.—Orange trees do not require any pruning at all so
long as they remain in good health, excepting it be the shortening back ofa branch
growing more vigorously than the others, and likely to spoil the contour of the
tree, But if the tree is unhealthy and nearly leafless, it may be pruned to advan-
tage, and it should be done at once. If repotting is necessary, it should be done
in the spring, and in the case of those pruned when the young growth is an inch or
so in length. ‘he seeds of the hardy shrubs mentioned in your letter may be sown

some time during the month of March.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 97

BERBERIDOPSIS CORALLINA.
(With Coloured Illustration.)

—"—HE beautiful shrub here figured escaped our attention,
7 hh ©=when, in 1873, we were discussing the merits of “ beau-
= pie tiful trees for kind climates.” It was mentioned by Mr.

NS EZy «Bell, writing from Kew Gardens, in the Froran Wortp
for May, 1873, as a plant likely to prove hardy in the
neighbourhood of London, and as thriving on the dry’ sandy soil of
Kew. But in the interesting communication from Lieut.-General
Sir Horatio Shirley, C.B., which appeared in the December number
of the same year, no reference was made to it, although the list
supplied of tender trees and shrubs thriving at Weymouth,comprised
five-and-twenty of the most beautiful plants known. In the paper
in which we broached the subject, published in March of that year,
we made no mention of it, and yet we have been interested in it
many years, and have flowered it finely in a cool house with the
equally tender Berberis Nepalensis, the Pittosporum, and the Des-
jontainia.

It is a question of some importance, however, how far this plant
may be considered hardy. We have the assurance of Mr. Bell, as
referred to above, that it is hardy at Kew. Butit may be peculiarly
eircumstanced in respect of shelter in the royal gardens, and cer-
tainly it has the advantage there of a dry soil. On our cold clay
at Stoke Newington, it is incapable of enduring the trial of a
severe winter, and consequently we have never been able to keep an
out-door plant for any length of time, for the first severe winter that
occurs after planting it out, cuts it down, and it does not recover by
throwing up from the root. As a cool-house plant we value it
highly, but its free habit of growth, and fitness for the decoration
of walls and trellises, render it admirably adapted for planting in the
open garden wherever the climate is kind enough to spare it, when
these isles are visited with real winter weather.

In the Frorat Wortp for August, 1862, appeared an article on
berberries, in which we described the species: we had found most
useful on our cold soil. Since then, we have, of course, added to
their number, and have found much to interest us in collecting and
cultivating these plants. We find that the growth of London on
the north, and the consequent increase of smoke in our Stoke
Newington atmosphere, tells against the berberries very deci-
sively. The very common and peculiarly useful B. aguifolium
endures the assaults of smoke the best of any, and the very larg2
angular-leaved kinds, of which B. Japonica is the representative,
suffer most of all. The most useful after B. aquifolium, which in
its way is as valuable as the holly, are B. Jamesoni (syn. B. Hooker),
B. fascicularis, and B. glumacea. These are thoroughly handsome
and distinct, and occasion no trouble, for they grow equally well in
elay, loam, or peat. We are, of course, as much as ever enamoured

April.

98 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of B. Darwini, but it is decidedly impatient of smoke, and never
looks so well here as in the country, while, on the other hand, B.
dulcis, which is nearly as good as B. Darwini, appears not to suffer
from smoke in the least. It grows freely, flowers freely, and
always looks well. B. Fortunei is not quite as tender as B. Nepa-
lensis, for the hardest winter does not killit, but it has never
flowered in the open ground here, and it always looks miserable
until about Midsummer-day ; whereas when grown under glass it
is bright and handsome, and flowers most abundantly.

Of the species of Berberis that areleast to be desired for orna-
mental purposes, special mention must be made of B. arisiata, B.
Newmani, and B. vulgaris. The last should be planted by those
who intend to make barberry wine, or use the berries for any other
purpose, but it is not worth a place in a garden devoted to really
beautiful shrubs.

As we have got upon this subject of beautiful trees for kind
climates, it would be a matter for thankfulness if some of our readers
would furnish us with particulars of the existence anywhere as an
out-door plant, and in a thriving state, of Berberis Nepalensis.

SPECIMEN FUCHSIAS.
BY HENRY CANNELL, F.BR.H.S.,
The Nurseries, Woolwich, and Swanley, Kent.

> UCHSIAS are appreciated so much for the beauty of their
‘4 flowers and the elegance of their habit, that a few
4 remarks on their cultivation will probably be accept-
able to many readers of the Froran Wor.p. The

present moment is most favourable for alluding to
them, because for the next two months they require rather careful
handling ; and, moreover, nicely-rooted plants taken in hand now
will, under favourable circumstances, make good specimens by the
middle of the summer; and from that period, until quite late in the
autumn, they will produce their beautiful flowers freely, and con-
tribute materially to the embellishment of the conservatory. It is
from the middle of the summer, onwards, that fuchsias are of the
most service ; for during the latter part of the spring, and the early
part of the summer, there is an abundance of other flowers, for the
azaleas, the show and fancy pelargoniums, and a host of other good
things, are then at their best. The amateur who has made up a bed
for propagating cucumbers or melons, may make a good beginning
with rooted cuttings; but those who have only a greenhouse or cold
frame, will do better with young plants nicely established in small
pots. Iam now alluding to those who have no stock plants from
which to obtain cuttings, or are anxious to add other varieties to
their collections. The rooted cuttings, when received from the
nursery, require much the same treatment as those taken direct from
the cutting pot. They must be uapacked as soon as they arrive, and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 99

be put singly in small pots, and then placed ina shady corner of the
pit or a close corner of the greenhouse. When started in the last-
mentioned structure, they should be placed underneath a hand-glass,
as they can then be kept close and shaded until they are established
without in any way interfering with the other plants in the house.
A nice light mixture of leaf-mould, friable loam, and silver sand will
be the most suitable at this stage. Put a few small pieces of crock
in the bottom, then a layer of the roughest part of the compost,
and half fill the pot with the mixture. Place the plant upon this,
and in the centre of the pot, and after sprinkling a little dry sand
over the roots, fill the pot, and press the soil rather firm, taking care,
ef course, to avoid injuring the tender stems. A fortnight’s careful
nursing is usually sufficient to enable them to become established,
and this consists in keeping them close, sprinkling them overhead
once or twice a day, as the weather may happen to be cool or hot,
and shading them from bright sunshine. Their commencing to
grow freely is a good sign of their having become established ; and
to prevent their being drawn up in a weakly manner, let them enjoy
a free circulation of air and full exposure to the light, with a thin
shade during periods of brilliant sunshine.

I have entered rather fully into the details of management at this
stage, because long experience has convinced me that unless they
make a vigorous start at the first, they do not usually make so free
a growth afterwards as could be desired. They must receive no
check at this stage, and immediately they are well established and
the roots run freely round the outside of the ball of soil, shift them
into five-inch pots. The compost must be rougher than that
advised for cuttings, and after trying many preparations, I am con-
vinced that a compost prepared with one part of yellow turfy loam,
one part of leaf-mould, one part of peat, taken from the surface of
heath-land, one part of horse droppings that have been dried under
cover sufficiently to admit of their being readily broken up, and
about one-third of a part of sharp silver sand, is unequalled. That
it is in every way suitable for fuchsias, there can be no doubt, and
I may say in confirmation of this, that the collection I exhibited at
the great International Exhibition in 1866, and with which I was,
as will be remembered, placed at the head of the prize list, was
grown in a compost prepared as here advised; as also were the col-
lections with which I for years was successful in taking the first
prizes at the principal metropolitan exhibitions. The pots must be
thoroughly clean, and well drained, and the soil be pressed rather
firm. After they are repotted, keep them close for a week or ten
days, and then increase the ventilation. When these pots are filled
with roots, they may again be shifted, and the most suitable pots
will be those eight inches in diameter ; and after this no further re-
potting will be required the first season.

Fuchsias require an abundance of moisture at the roots when
growing freely, and after they have had their last shift for the season,
and have filled the pots with roots, weak liquid manure used alter-
nately with clear water will afford them much assistance. One of
the best liquid manures I have used is prepared by steeping a

April.

100 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

bushel of horse droppings in a large tub of water, and allowing it to
stand until quite clear. Liquid manure and clear water must be of
the same temperature as the house, for when the water is colder,
the plants receive a check from which, if it is severe, they are some
time in recovering. Light sprinklings overhead are frequently
advised by writers on fuchsia-growing, but they do more harm than
good, and I would recommend my readers to syringe the plants
heavily, when syringing is necessary, or to well drench them with a
watering-can to which a rather fine rose has beén affixed. In warm,
dry weather, a drenching of this kind towards the evening will clear
the foliage of dust, and be otherwise most beneficial to them. A
moist atmosphere is also conducive to a healthy growth, and: this
can be secured by pouring water on the floor of the house two or
three times a day.

The temperature most suitable for fuchsias now requires con-
sideration, and I will at once say that a top-heat of sixty-five degrees
by day and fifty-five by night will suffice to maintain a most vigorous
growth. When first potted off, the temperature may be five degrees
higher, and if the pots are at that stage plunged in a hot-bed, the
bottom-heat should be about seventy-five degrees. Fuchsias require
more warmth and atmospheric moisture than most greenhouse plants,
and, if possible, they should be grown in a little house or pit by
themselves until they are coming into bloom. It will also be well
to caution my readers against exposing the plants to cold draughts
when growing freely.

The stopping and training are by no means difficult, for fuchsias
require to be grown in a natural manner to produce a good effect.
They must not be pinched severely, or the growth will be weak and
the flowers poor, and, if trained too hard, they will lack that
elegance of outline so essential in a first-class specimen. In the
case of spring-struck cuttings, they will not require stopping until
they are put in the five-inch pots, and are eight or nine inches in
height. They may then have the points nipped out, and one of the
shoots which push from the top buds trained up to take its place.
This will require stopping when it has attained a length of six inches,
and, at the same time, pinch the shoots back to about four inches
from the stem. This pinching must be repeated twice or three times
if the plants were started early and are growing vigorously; but for
later plants, and those making slow progress, one more stopping will
suffice. In the latter case, they must not be put in pots exceeding
seven inches in diameter. Plants trained in the manner here ad-
vised will, by the time they come into bloom, form handsome
pyramids, ranging from two to three feet in height, and be of a pro-
portionate diameter at the base, and the only support required will
be a neat stake to support the main stem.

For the information of those who have old plants to deal with, I
will now proceed to give directions for the management of the
plants the second year. In pruning them, if they have been grown
in the form of pyramids, prune the side shoots to the second or
third joints from the base, and remove all small shoots altogether ;
but those in the form of bushes should be cut down to within six

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 101

inches or so of the base. Bush specimens are remarkably hand-
some, and several of the most important prizes that have been
awarded to me have been gained by them. When pruned hard
back, they push up strong shoots, and if these are stopped once or
twice, large, handsome bushes are the result. The pyramids will
require the shoots to be pinched back twice or three times, the
last stopping to be done about a month before they are wanted in
bloom. If the shoots are overcrowded in any part, thin them mode-
rately to afford those remaining sufficient space for development.
The old plants must, when the young shoots are an inch or so in
length, be taken out of the pots, and all the soil removed from
about the roots. The latter should then be washed, drawn through
a little dry sand, and be put in pots of the same size, or one size
larger than those previously occupied, the compost, of course, to be
the same as recommended for the small plants.

Although my collection in-
cludes over one hundred and fifty fo
varieties, and is probably the
largest in the country, I should
advise the amateur not to grow a
very large number unless he
makes a hobby of fuchsias.
Twenty sorts will be enough to
begin with, and these should
consist of the undermentioned,
which I have arranged according
to the classification that for some
years past has been adopted in
my Floral Guide :-—

Scarlet tubes and sepals, and
dark corollas.— Hercules, Crown
Prince of Prussia, Enoch Arden,
Killiecrankie, and Wave of
Life.

Scarlet tubes and sepals, with
vose or lavender corollas.—Right
’ Hon. J. Bright, Father Ignatius,
King of Fuchsias, and Roderick
Dhu.

White tubes and sepals, with
pink or scarlet corollas. — Our
Future Queen, Baroness Burdett
Coutts, Arabella, and Mrs. J. Lye.

Svarlet tubes and sepals, white
corollas. — Conspicua, Cannell’s
Gem, and Mrs. H. Bennett.

Scarlet tubes and sepals, with
double dark corolla.—Avalanche
(Henderson), Champion of the MRS. H, CANNBLL.

World, Harry Williams, and Exquisite.
Scarlet tubes and sepals, with white corollas—Mrs, H. Cannell is,.
April.

102 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

undoubtedly, the finest of the varieties with double white corollas,
and the accompanying figure of a bloom from a plant grown in my
nursery, shows how much superior it is to other varieties. It should,
therefore, be grown in preference to all others in the same class.

SHORT NOTES ON USEFUL VEGETABLES.

ea 111 following notes are continued from page 89. The very
short note on the cultivation of the leek appears not
to have satisfied some of our readers, so we have treated
the subject at greater length.

Tse Leek obtains special attention in Wales and
Scotland, but is regarded as a comparatively unimportant vegetable
in England. It is a thrifty plant, needing but little care to insure
a useful crop; but, like many more gcod things, it makes a great
return for first-rate treatment. Any good kitchen garden soil will
suit it, and where only a few are likely to be wanted for winter
soups, a row or so may be sown in March or April, and as soon as
large enough may be thinned to two inches apart, and be left to
their fate, provided, of course, that they are kept clear of weeds, and
have a little earth drawn to them occasionally as they advance, so as
to cover their necks to a depth of two or three inches. We have
had them extremely crowded, and quite neglected, and yet in winter
have supplied the house wilh plenty, the rvots being half-an-inch or
more thick, and as good for soups as the handsomest samples.

To Grow Larcre Lerxs a little extra care must be taken.
Make up a good seed-bed, the soil light and rich, and rather fine on
the surface. In February sow in drills, six inches asunder. As
soon as they are large enough to draw, thin them to three inches
apart, and plant out the thinnings. The ground for these should be
well dug and heavily manured, and the plants must be put in rows
two feet apart, and nine inches asunder in the rows. They must be
planted deep with a dibber, and be closed in carefully, and have a good
watering, so as to suffer the least possible check; continue to water °
twice a week, using weak manure water if convenient, and a week
after the planting cut off the tops of the leaves. Continue the
watering, and in three weeks cut off the tops of the leaves again.
From time to time draw a little earth to them, as you would to
celery, to blanch the neck. The result will be a splendid growth of
fat roots, as white and bright as silver, and of the finest quality for
any purpose, and especially for stewing in the fine old fashion of the
north country. Those left in the seed-bed will make a useful crop
for ordinary purposes.

A Successton or Leeks may be secured from August to May
by sowing in February, March, April, and the first week of May,
and transplanting as directed above for the November sowing.
They may be left in the ground to be drawn during winter as
wanted, but as it is not an easy matter to draw them when the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 103

ground is frozen, a few should be taken up in time and stored in
earth, to be handy for use. But as they soon deteriorate when
removed from the ground, it would be imprudent at any time to
take up many.

Leex Buxzs are unknown, but any one who is partial to the
flavour of this fine vegetable may be recommended to grow leek
bulbs. When left in the ground the leek runs to seed the second
season ; if bulbs are wanted the growth of seed must not be allowed.
As fast as the pointed flower-stems rise cut them off; not one must
be developed, and it is well if they are pinched out as soon as they
are visible. The plant being unable to produce seed, will produce
bulbs instead. They are of the same shape and size as a large tulip
bulb, and of a silvery white colour. The withering of the leaves is
the sign for removing them. When stewed in gravy and served
hot with butter, these bulbs make one of the most delicious lon-
douches imaginable. How and when the leek became the badge of
the Welsh is unknown, but it appears to be generally agreed that
its use as a symbol dates from Druidic times, and that it represents
Cuedven, the British Ceres. The association of the leek with the
memory of St. David is understood to date from a victory gained by
the Welsh in one of their many conflicts with the Saxons, when,
under the advice of St. David, they wore their ancient badge. One
of their poets sings :—

“T love the leek above all herbs and flowers ;
When first we wore the leek the field was ours; |
Tbe leek is white and green, whereby is meant
That Britons are both stout and eminent:

Next to the lion and the unicorn,
The leek’s the fairest emblem that is worn.”

Tue Suattor.—There are two sorts of shallots, the red and the
white, the last named being not white, but straw-yellow. The red
is the best for keeping. To grow shallots is so easy a matter that a
very few words on the subject will suffice. They should be well
grown, or not grown at all, for small shallots are such a plague to
the cook, that a considerable proportion are likely to be wasted ;
therefore let the ground be well dug and liberally manured some
time in advance of the planting. On warm dry soils the bulbs may
be planted in October and November; but on damp cold soils
March and April are the times to plant. The warmer the climate
the finer the growth, but a rich soil will in any case tell with effect
upon them. The best way of managing, if a large supply is required,
is to mark out the ground into four-feet beds, throwing the earth
from the alleys over the beds, and finishing the latter in a nice
workmanlike way to a neatly-rounded surface. This will throw off
water, and catch more than an average of sunshine, and very much
advantage the crop.

The bulbs must be divided into separate cloves in planting.
The rows may be nine to twelve inches apart, according to the
strength of the ground, but, as a rule, nine inches will be the right
measure, and the cloves may be six inches apart in the rows. Put

April

104 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

down the line, and’press the cloves into their places, and so leave
them. You need do nothing more than keep the beds carefully hoed
and cleaned of weeds until the time arrives to take up the crop,
which should be stored in small lots in large mesh-nets hung from
the ceiling of an airy shed, or any dry cool outhouse.

SHaLLors rrom SeEp are handsomer and larger than from
cloves or bulbs ; the question is, how is seed to be obtained? It
has been our good fortune to discover a certain method of obtaining
seed,,and we have supplied the seed trade with large quantities —
indeed, the raising of shallots from seed was a thing unknown until
we started it. Once upon a time we had planted our shallots as
usual by simply pressing the bulbs into their places. Soon after-
wards we found them dragged out and scattered all over the place,
as if a lot of mischievous boys had been indulging a mad freak.
As we have any number of water-rats, water-shrews, and red field-
mice, we did not trouble to ask ‘‘ Who did it?’ but went to work
at once, and replanted the shallots three or four inches deep, and
trod them firmly, so that no “small deer” should have a chance of
uprooting them. Strange to say, they all put up flower-heads and
seeded freely, and we supplied the trade with the seed, and obtained
a good price for it; and for some years afterwards, wonderful
shallots were seen at exhibitions, the produce of seed we secured by
planting the cloves deeply. Having neither time nor inclination for
seed-growing as a matter of business, we discontinued the practice
of planting shallots deeply, when fully convinced of the result of so
doing. Henceforth, those who want seed know how to secure it.

Ganruic.—The finest garlic is the product of a sunny clime,
hence home-grown samples are seldom so plump and silvery as
shose imported from the Continent for our markets; but home-
grown garlic is as well flavoured, and every way as useful, as the
product of Italy or Portugal. A piece of old garden-ground, well
manured, will suit garlic better than heavy newly-broken land; and
i any case the soil should Le rich and light. The best time to
plant is as early in March as the weather will allow. Put down the
line, the ground being ready and tolerably smooth, and taking a
single clove between finger and thumb, thrust it into the soil an
inch deep. In this way plant them four inches apart in the row,
and the rows six to eight inches apart. Keep them clean, and
towards the end of June tie the grass in knots to prevent flowering.
When ripe take them up and dry them, and tie them in bundles,
reserving a portion of the stem for this purpose.

_ The judicious use of garlic is certainly one secret of the supe-
riority of Continental cookery. Anyone unaccustomed tothe use of
garlic, but willing to give it.a trial, may be recommended to proceed
as follows: When there is a ragout or stew preparing, with which
a trial of garlic may be made, let the cooking be completed in the
usual way, and the dish quite ready to serve. Now mince very fine
one clove, or even half a elove, of garlic, throw it in and let the soup
simmer a few seconds only, and then serve. This slight quick cook-
ing extracts from the garlic a fine welcome flavour, but much cook-
ing renders it offensive.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 105

Cutves.—This pretty plant, resembling in both leaf and flower
the seaside thrift, is prized by many .as an ingredient in spring
salads, being milder and differing slightly in flavour from the onion.
It may also be used to flavour soups. Any good garden soil will
produce chives, but a fine sample can only be obtained by planting
on ground well manured for the purpose. Plant in clumps of a
dozen or so, a foot apart every way, and take up and store in
autumn if the roots are required. Asa rule, the green tops only
are used, aud these are obtained by cutting close over as many as
are wanted. [t is a good plan to plant a few chives, with mint and
marjoram, on a sunny border, next a wall facing south, for in such a
situation these plants make a free growth as early as February and
afford useful supplies a month or so in advance of other parts of the
garden.

Rocamporr.—This is sometimes used in place of garlic, being
similar in flavour, but milder. It may be grown in precisely the
same way as garlic. As it produces bulbs above ground as well as
below, in the same way as the last-mentioned vegetable, the ground
bulbs alone should be planted, for the others donot produce a satis-
factory crop.

Spanish Onrons.—The so-called “Spanish onions” of the
grocers’ shops are products of Portuguese industry. The system
of cultivation is very simple, and may be earried out in an English
garden without difficulty. A warm situation is selected for the
seed-bed, which is made of a body of half-exhausted fermenting
material, constituting what gardeners understand by a “mild hot-
bed.” ‘Three inches of fine rich earth is spread over, and the seed
sown rather thickly. This is done about the middle of November,
but-a good crop may be secured by sowing in December. During
frosty weather the young plants are protected by rough frames and
mats, which are removed whenever: the weather is mild enough to
permit of the plants enjoying light and air. In April they are
carefully transplanted into rich, deep, light soil, and thenceforward
must have good cultivation. By this method large and handsome
bulbs may be grown in this country, but they are never so mild as
those imported, owing to the difference in the climate.

ALPHAND’S “ PARKS AND PROMENADES OF PARIS.”

(esses HIS magnificeut work has not as yet found its way into
; | many English libraries, but it is so necessary an accom-
paniment of the works of art proper toa country house,
that we direct the attention of our readers to it, with
— this word of advice, that those who want it should
quickly make sure of it, for the day is not far off when it will
become a rarity, and will realize considerably more than the price
now charged for it, which is only £15. The author, M. Alphand,

April.

106 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

had charge of the immense works of improvement and embellishment

Hi mn ll) as ane

f Paris,’

?

FOLIE, BOIS DE BOULOGNE.

ILE DE LA
‘From Alphand’s “ Parks and Promenades 0:

==
SS

Wil
aN NANA Ni il
tl | Hh Hl AMA AN HL | I

in which the late Emperor Napoleon III. engaged with so much

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 107

earnestness, and for the most part saw completed in accordance with
his heart’s desire. The remodelling of the Bois de Boulogne, the
Bois de Vincennes, and the numerous squares of the city of Paris,

= =
>

CUPRFSSUS LAWSONIANA,

From Alphand’s ‘‘ Parks and Promenades of Paris,”

were great undertakings, the practical part of which fell into the able

hands of M. Alphand, and there are but few of our readers un-

acquainted with the marvellous changes that were wrought by his
April.

108 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

transforming hand, backed by the Emperor's public spirit, and in
no small degree aided by the administration of M.Haussman. Is

ARAUCARIA IMBRICATA.
¥

| From Alphand’s “ Parks and Promenades of Paris,”

was a‘happy thought of M. Alphand to write a book descriptive of
his embellishments of Paris; but, alas! the Franeo-German war,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 109

the civil war, ard the collapse for a season of the prosperity of the
gay city, were grievous impediments to his work, some of which was
actually destroyed by the fires that told of the despair of the pro-
moters of the Commune. But the great engineer, architect, and
planter was not to be beaten by war, revolution, or incendiarism, and
here is his book, a mighty folio measuring twenty-seven by nineteen
inches, weighing nearly three-quarters of a hundredweight, a perfect
piece of luxury, with grand letterpress, sumptuous pictures, and
myriads of plans, sections, and other working details of inestimable
value, and calculated to afford iustruction and entertainment to its
possessor far beyond the capabilities of any similar work of our
time. It contains a carefully written and richly-illustrated history
of gardening, with a critical analysis of styles, founded, of course,
on the relations of gardening to architecture. Then follow descrip-
tions of the parks, boulevards, fountains, and squares of Paris, with
the most minute particulars of the improvements effected, copious
lists of the trees and shrubs employed in the plantations, and a
wonderful series of exquisite steel plates, chromo-lithographs, and
wood engravings illustrative of the interesting text. Toa lover of
books this must prove a bounteous feast of reason, and if kept ina
series of portfolios, to be handy for. spreading out, the plates will
prove to be a grand gallery of pictures.

To enter into any analysis of the contents is simply impossible
with the limited space at our command, but this brief notice may be
useful in persuading many of our readers to secure a copy while a
few still remain, for the present price is only about half the original
figure, and it is not likely that so costly a book will be reprinted.
The publisher in Paris is M. Rochschild, of 13, Rue des Saints-
Peres. The publishers in London are Messrs. Barthes and Lowell,
Great Marlborough Street; and Messrs. Asher and Co., Bedford
' Street, Covent Garden.

ANNUAL FLOWERS FOR SUMMER BEDDING.
BY JOHN WALSH.

44) EDDING annuals comprise a class of plants of the utmost
| ~=value to the amateur with limited resources, because
of the facility with which large stocks may be raised in
the spring, and the effective appearance they present
throughout the summer. By far the largest proportion
of annual flowers are comparatively worthless, except for the mixed
borders. Large numbers are very weedy in character, whilst many
others are too ephemeral, lasting a few weeks only in bloom. Some
there are which have a neat habit, are very showy and attractive,
and, under proper management, continue in bloom throughout the
season; and it is to these I am now desirous of: directing the atten-
tion of readers of the Froran Worup. I am anxious not to over-
praise them, or to imply, by what may be said, that they are
April.

110 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

superior to the ordinary bedders, such as geraniums, verbenas, and
the leaf-plants usually increased by means of cuttings. They are
useful in supplementing ordinary bedders, and in combination with
the latter a splendid display may be produced with considerably less
labour and expense than would be possible with plants that require
comfortable accommodation under glass during the winter season.
The work of propagating the ordinary bedders must be commenced
in the autumn, and the stock preserved in light airy pits or houses
during the winter, and to do this much labour and a considerable
expenditure of fuelare necessary. But in the case of annuals, you
have only to sow the seed in spring, prick off the plants into boxes,
or to put them singly in small pots, and then carefully harden them
to bear the exposure to the weather, and they are ready for plant-
ing out.

All the annuals and other bedding plants which may be raised
from seed in a similar manner require much the same management,
and a few remarks on sowing the seed and other details will probably
add to the value of this communication.

As there is now no time to be lost, those who intend to raise a
portion of their stock of bedders in the manner here suggested must
make up their minds quickly. The first step will be to order the
seed, and as an ordinary trade packet will furnish sufficient plants
for a bed about eight feet square, the quantity of seed required
may be readily determined. A temperature rather higher than that
of an ordinary greenhouse will be necessary to start the seeds, and
nothing better could be devised than a mild hotbed. This can be
prepared by forming a bed of fermenting materials, such as stable
manure which has been turned over two or three times to sweeten,
or leaves gathered up in the autumn; or, if more convenient, the .
leaves and manure may be mixed together with any littery straw
that may be at hand. The bed should be about two feet longer and
wider than the frame to be placed upon it. It may be from two to
four feet deep, according to the quantity of materials available.
Beds of the greater depth are to a certain extent the best, as they
retain their heat the longest, and by a little freshening up with new
materials after the frame is no longer required for the seeds, it may
be turned to good account in the production of a summer crop of
cucumbers. After the frame has been made up a few days, cover
the surface with a layer of coal-ashes, and proceed to sow the seeds.
Hither shallow boxes or pans may be used, and in either case a mode-
rate layer of rather small crocks must be spread over the bottom. Fill
with rather light sandy soil, and sow thinly, to afford the young
plants an opportunity to acquire strength before it becomes necessary
to prick or pot them off. Very jine soil is the best for covering the
seeds; and in the case of those of small size, the covering must be
light, for few seeds germinate so rapidly when deeply buried. Until
the seeds begin to make their appearance above the surface, main-
tain the soil in a moderately moist condition, and keep the frame
rather close, as no ventilation beyond that for allowing the exhala-
tions from the fermenting materials to escape will be required. But
as the plants come up freely, the ventilation must be increased to

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 111

promote a firm, stocky growth. When the seedlings are about two
inches high, preparations must be made for putting them in pots or in
boxes ; and unless they can be placed where they will enjoy the
temperature similar to that of the frames, after they have been
removed from the seed-paus, the best course will be to remove to a
cold frame, and in a week or ten days afterwards commence to pot
off. If, on the other hand, they can be kept in a warm pit or house
for a fortnight, it will be more advantageous to transplant, and defer
the removal to the cold pit until they have become re-established ;
but it will not do to allow them to remain in the warm frame until
they are removed from the seed-pan, and then place them in a
cold pit, as the two changes at the same time would be too much of
a check for them. They can be put singly in small pots, or several
together in boxes. Those in boxes should be from two to three
inches apart each way; and if the space can be afforded, they should
be allowed three inches each way. They must be kept rather close
and shaded until sufficiently established to bear full exposure to the
sunshine, and a free circulation of air without flagging, and they
may then be gradually hardened off ; but there need be no hurry in
doing this, as a fortnight’s exposure, in the day, to the weather,
with protection from night frosts, will suffice to prepare them for
planting in the beds towards the end of May.

The following are the most valuable of the annuals adapted for
bedding purposes :—

Ageratum.—Of these, the best for beds is 4. Imperial Dwarf,
which is one of the finest light blue bedding plants we have; and
the best for back rows is A. Mericanwm, which, although good in its
way, is less compact than the former.

Amaranthus.—The finest for bedding is A. melancholicus ruber,
which is one of the finest dark-leaved bedders in cultivation, as it
forms dense masses of foliage of a rich port-wine colour, and may
be kept to any desired height by pinching.

A. tricolor varies so much in colour and character as to render
it suitable only for mixed borders. ,

Convolvulus.—The pretty OC. minor is useful for beds, and also
for forming large masses in borders. All the varieties are pretty,
but the most decisive in colour are C. wnicaulis, purple, and C. sub-
cerulens, light blue. Sow three seeds in each five-inch pot, and plant
out without disturbing the plants. As these flowers turn to the
light, they are seen to advantage when growing on the north side of
the dwelling-house.

Gillardia.—These produce large showy flowers, and have a very
effective appearance. G. picta, scarlet and yellow; G. hybrida gran-
diflora, red and yellow; and G. coccinea, scarlet, are all suitable.

Golden Feather.—This well-known yellow-leaved plant is still
one of the best for marginal bands and divisional lines. It should
be pricked off into boxes, and planted out thickly.

Jacobeas.—These are better known as American groundsels.
They are very compact, and bloom freely throughout the season.
The crimson, purple, and rose are the most effective colours.

Lobelias.—These well-known and effective bedders can be readily

April.

112 ' ‘THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

raised from seed, and although seedlings are never so regular in
growth as plants from cuttings, they form excellent lines and
beds, provided the seed has been saved from a good strain. The
two best forms of which seed may be most easily obtained are L.
speciosa and L. pumila grandiflora.

Marigold.—The finest of all the marigolds for bedding is a
strain which originated with Mr. R. Dean, of Ealing, and is known
as Aurea floribunda in the trade. It is about eight inches in height,
produces large yellow flowers, and is very effective throughout the
season. The Dwarf French varieties are also most effective.

Perilla.—The robust P. nankinensis is most useful for back rows
and large beds; itis very hardy, and can be kept down by pinching, if
required. :

Petunias are extravagantly showy, and plants raised from seeds
sown in spring begin to bloom early. Mixed beds are very attrac-
tive, and as the varieties cannot be depended upon from seed, a
good mixture of colours is preferable. They are of especial value for
broad borders.

Phiox.—The varieties of P. Drummondi are wonderfully showy,
and when planted in good soil, remain in full bloom throughout the
season. The self colours are, perbaps, the most showy for small
beds, but large beds filled with mixed colours are very attractive.

Saponaria.—The pretty S. calabrica is useful for bedding on
¢ool moist soils in the North of England, but too short-lived on dry
soils, in the southern counties, to admit of its being recommended
as a bedder.

Tagetes—The dwarf-growing J. signata pumila is one of the
most showy of yellow bedders, and as it is not at all particular as to
the soil in which it is planted it succeeds where yellow calceolarias
will hardly live. It is the best substitute for the latter we have.

Tropeolum.—The varieties T. Lobbianum are very showy, and on
rather poor soil make excellent beds. Z. Crystal Palace Scarlet is
also very attractive. The Tom Thumb varieties make brilliant beds,
provided they have a warm sunny situation. The seeds should, as
in the case of the convolvulus, be sown in five-inch pots, and the
plants be put out in the beds without being disturbed at the roots.

VARIEGATED GARDENING FOR EVERYBODY.

BY WILLIAM COLE,
Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex, W.

a= the FroraL Wortp for February last I had the plea-
aM «sure of contributing a selection of geraniums grown for
their flowers, especially adapted to the requirements of
amateurs, who do not want to be burdened with a large
“number, and I now propose to give a similar selection

of varieties grown for their leaves. I am all the more anxious te
do this because several amateurs who appear to have found the list

a per

>

a =

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 113

of service have expressed a wish for a similar selection of tricolors
and others grown for the beauty of their foliage. The selection will
be as brief as possible, and amongst the names of those recommended
for bedding purposes, will be found many that are now well-known,
for some of those first introduced are still unsurpassed by the best of
the varieties distributed more recently. There is, for example, Mrs.
Pollock, which was the first of the golden zonals raised, and it may
be safely said that it is still one of the best.

In the trial of geraniums in the Chiswick gardens of the Royal
Horticultural Society, in 1873, which included several hundred
varieties, it was considered by the committee to be one of the very
best of its class. I have, in fact, been careful to include the newer
varieties only which supersede those of anterior date. For the
convenience of the reader I have grouped the several varieties ac-
cording to their class.

Gotpen Zonats.—These are not of so much value in the flower
garden, as the varieties in the bronze zonal and golden-leaved sec-
tion, for when seen from a little distance, the colours are so blended
that they lack decisiveness ; several of these are very beautiful when
grown in pots, but there is such a great sameness, that it is most
difficult to select a few thatare really distinct. In selecting six for
pots, I should recommend Edward Richard Benyon, Gem of Tri-
colors, Peter Grieve, John Downie, Mr. Rutter, and Macbeth.
For bedding, the last mentioned varieties, Louisa Smith, Victoria
Regina, and Mrs. Pollock are the best.

Sinver Zonas, when nicely grown, are very pretty in pots, but
they are of ver’ little value for the flower garden. Nix are quite
sufficient for pot culture, and those should be Mrs. Laing, Lass
O’ Gowrie, Princess Beatrice, Miss Burdett Coutts, Charming Bride,
and Lady B. Brydges. For bedding, the only varieties required are
Italia Unita and Mabel Morris.

Bronze Zonats are, when properly coloured, most effective in pots,
and for bedding are invaluable. The best six for pots are Prince
Arthur, Mrs. Harrison Weir, Maréchal MacMahon, Reine Victoria,
Impéeratrice Eugénie, and Princess of Wales. For bedding I should
recommend Golden Harry Hieover, Sybil, and The Moor for small beds
for edging purposes ; and Kentish Here, Waltham Bronze, and Beauty
of Caulderdale for large beds and borders. The varieties belonging to
this class, whether in pots or planted out, must have full exposure,
or the leaves will soon become quite green, marked with a‘dull,
brownish zone.

GoLpDEN-LEAVED.—These are adapted for bedding purposes only,
and in their way are quite unsurpassed in effectiveness. The best
are Crystal Palace Gem (there are two varieties under this name,
one with plain leaves, and the other with green leaves margined with
yellow, and the plain Jeaved form is the best of these), Golden Fleece.
Creed’s Seedling, and Itobert Fish. The last two are dwarf and most
useful for edging purposes.

Srtyer-EDGED.—The best of this class are Miss Kingsbury,
Princess Alexandra, Queen of Queens, Pearl, and Flower of Spring,
which are here placed in their order of merit.

April. 8

114: THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

TUBEROUS ROOTED BEGONIAS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN.

BY W. BRADBURY.

me U BEROUS rooted Begonias, of which there are now a large

47 number in cultivation, constitute an elegant and most
valuable class of summer flowering plants. They areall
of free growth, very distinct in character, and under
favourable conditions flower very freely. Until some

five or six years since, when Begonia boliviensis was introduced, there —

were but few kinds with tuberous roots, and these were of but
little value from a decorative point of view, but since that time,
thanks to the enterprise of the collector and the skill of the
hybridist, an immense number all possessing more or less merit.
have been introduced. It was not, however, until after the intro-
duction of the two comparatively hardy species, B. Veitchi and B.
rosejlora, that they received the attention they so well deserve, for
these were so distinct in character, that they made a lasting im-
pression, and owing to their comparative hardiness received some-
thing more than an ordinary degree of attention from cultivators of
all classes. Since these fine species were distributed, their pollen
has been freely used in the fertilization of the more tender kinds
from warmer Jatitudes, and the result is a race of varieties of great
beauty, and much hardier than the begonias to which we had pre-
viously been accustomed. Indeed, begonias have so long been
regarded as stove plants, that no little difficulty has been ex-
perienced in convincing cultivators that they succeed most satis-
factorily not only in the greenhouse but in the flower garden also.

It is to the latter point that Iam now most anxious to direct the
attention of my readers, for although they do not produce a blaze
of colour like geraniums, verbenas, or the more brightly-coloured
leaved plants, they are, from their distinctiveness and beauty, well
suited for choice beds in rather secluded situations.

The tuberous begonias are beginning to make new growth, and
the present moment is favourable for purchasing. They will
doubtless come to hand in small pots, and as it is important to give
them every possible encouragement, place when received in a cool
pit or frame near the glass, and as soon as the pots are well filled
with roots, shift into five or six-inch pots according to the size and
vigour of the plants. After they are shifted they must be still kept
in the pit, for if placed in a high temperature the growth will be want-
ing in firmness, and the plants will be unfit for the flower garden ; for
if drawn up in heat the least unfavourable weather is sufficient to
spoil their appearance for a considerable time. When they are
repotted, use a rather rich compost, such as a mixture of turfy loam,
leaf-mould, and silver sand, and as soon asthey are nicely established
supply them liberally with water.

A rather shady situation should be selected for the bed, as they
grow more freely in a partial shade than when fully exposed to the
sun throughout the day. But beds under trees must not Pe filled

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 115

‘ ‘
with them, because in such situations they soon become drawn up
and cease to bloom satisfactorily. They are not very particular as
to soil, provided it is not too heavy and close, but any addition to
the beds in the shape of well-rotted manure or leaf-mould, will aid
materially in promoting a healthy development of foliage and plenty

_ of flowers. Watering the bed thoroughly in dry weather will also

be of immense assistance tothe plants. “They will not require much

_ attention during the summer season, for unlike many other things

‘they must not be pinched back. In the autumn, before the frost is
severe enough to injure the tubers, lift them, and after they have

' been laid out in a dry room long enough to become nicely dry, store

in pots filled with dry sand, and keep in a cool p!ace where the frost
cannot reach them. The following are the best of those for the

' flower garden, now procurable at a moderate price :—

&

B. boliviensis, a fine upright-growing species, with drooping
flowers of a rich red colour.

B. intermedia, a fine upright-growing hybrid, attaining a height
of eighteen inches, and producing large, brilliant scarlet flowers.

B. Martiniana, a pretty, neat-growing species, with bright, rose-
coloured flowers; suitable for the outside of beds.

B. Stella, a beautiful hybrid with dark foliage and brilliant
crimson flowers.

B. Vesuvius, a fine hybrid; bushy in habit, and producing a
profusion of large, richly-coloured flowers.

B. Veitchi, arobust yet dwarf-growing species, bearing large,
brilliant, red flowers, one of the hardiest of the section.

There are several others that will do well in the flower-garden,
but they are as yet too expensive to be purchased for out-door cul-
ture. Amateurs who may not feel disposed to purchase a sufficient
stock to plant out this year may buy one plant of each of the fore-
going, grow them in potsin the conservatory, and strike several
batches of cuttings, with a view to raise a stock for next year’s
planting. The smalier side-shoots strike freely at any time during
the summer. BB. Veitchi cannot be propagated readily in this way.
Seed of this class of begonias can be purchased and sown at once.
The seedlings will mostly bloom, and those which do not attain a
size sufficient for them to flower will form tubers large enough to
produce strong plants next year.

HARDY BEDDING PLANTS.
BY GEORGE SMITH.

mS the production of a stock of bedding plants sufficient

to fill a flower garden, of even a moderate size, is a
heavy task for the amateur, I have prepared a list of
hardy plants that are well adapted for bedding purposes,
with a view to lessen the labour and_difficulties inci-

* dental to the preparation of the stock of bedders. Several} of the

ee

April, >

4
?

116 ' THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

hardy bedders, although not grown extensively, are amongst the finest
in the respective classes, and by growing a fair proportion of these,
there will be less labour in propagating tender things, and as less space
under glass will be taken up, more room will be afforded for plants
required for the decoration of the conservatory. They do not super-
sede the best of the tender bedders, and none of themcan equal in
colouring such things as the alternantheras and coleus, but they will
be found of immense value in helping to eke these things out, and
in combination with some of the best annuals most sumptuous leaf-
beds may be formed without the assistance of a single plant kept in
the greenhouse through the winter.

It will not be practicable to work up a sufficient stock of many
of the plants that will be enumerated, to admit of their being
planted in the flower garden in the forthcoming summer; but I
would strongly advise my readers to purchase a few examples of the
plants likely to be useful to them, and to put them out in an open
position in the reserve ground or kitchen garden, to afford them
an opportunity to become acquainted with their characteristics in
the course of the season, and then propagate a stock sufficient for
next season’s work. In giving the names of those of the highest
value I shall append a few remarks to assist the amateur in select-
ing and increasing the stock of those purchased.

Harpy Beppers witH Dark Fo.tace.—Ajuga reptans pur-
purea,a dense free-growing plant with deep bronzy leaves, usually
attaining a height of four or five inches. It is readily increased by
division, and strong plants purchased now may be broken up into as
many portions as there are separate crowns. These can be planted
out in rows in the reserve ground, and in the spring may be again
divided and planted in the beds six inches apart. It is useful for
second lines and panels. It must have a sunny position to bring out
the full colour.

Beets.—The beets are hardly entitled to a place here; but they
are so effective in large beds, and in third or fourth rows in borders,
that it may be well to mention them.

Belvoir Castle is the highest coloured beet for bedding, and
seed may be sown about the middle of the month, where the plants
are to remain, and may then be thinned to a distance of six inches
apart.

r Oxalis corniculata rubra.—A. very pretty little plant for carpet
work; the foliage is small and of deep bronzy colour. It may be
used with good effect in second rows, and in small patterns, provided
it is kept within bounds. Itcan be increased by breaking up the
established plants.

Harpy Beppers wits Sinvery Learace.—Achillea umbellata is
a pretty white-leaved plant, forming a dense band about three inches
in width, and six inches high. It is very difficult of propagation,
and therefore not well adapted for amateurs.

Antennaria tomentosum, a very dwarf plant, growing close upon
the surface, and forming a silvery carpet. It is only suitable for
nice friable soils, as on sandy soils it dies in patches in the summer,
and on those of cold tenacious character perishes in winter. It is

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 117

most useful for edging raised beds, and for forming a carpet under-
neath strong-growing succulents. It can be increased by division.

Cerastium tomentosum.—This is one of the best of the white-
leaved plants for edging purposes. It can be increased by cuttings,
or by pulling the old plants to pieces. In the latter case it should
be planted rather thickly in a small trench, and then be cut over
to make it level. If clipped two or three times in the season, it
forms beautiful silvery bands.

Cineraria maritima is hardy on dry warm soils, as also are its
numerous varieties. When kept to a height of about nine inches,
it is very effective, and may be employed wherever a silvery-leayed
plant would be appropriate. It can be propagated either by cuttings
or seed, which should be struck or sown, as the case may be, some
time during the summer.

Veronica incana.—A close growing plant attaining a height of
about four inches. It is very compact, and when divided and re-
planted in the spring it requires no attention during the summer.
It is well adapted for edgings and divisional lines.

Harpy Bepprrs wira Gorpen Learace.—Arabis alpina varie-
gata, a useful hardy plant, with creamy variegation. It is compact
in growth, and readily propagated by division, and is especially good
for spring bedding. Itis only suitable for dry, warm situations, as
it usually perishes during the winter on heavy and wet soils.

Pyrethrum Golden Feather—This famous bedder still holds its
own for usefulness and effectiveness. It is often met with in an un-
satisfactory condition, because of large plants being ‘put out thinly,
instead of small ones thickly. The best effect is produced by those
between one and two inches in height put three inches apart each
way. They soon cover the ground, and the necessary stoppings can
be commenced early. Divided plants and seedlings raised last
autumn should not be employed, because of their tendency to pro-
duce flowers.

Lonicera aurea reticulata.—This climber, well known as the
Japanese honeysuckle, is useful for forming marginal bands to large
beds. It must have a sunny situation to bring out the golden
colour, and the shoots require pegging down regularly.

Stellaria graminea awrea.—The golden chickweed is an important
addition to the list of’ hardy bedders. If strong tufts are planted
rather close together, and the pinching commenced soon after they
begin to grow freely, it forms dense bands of golden colour, quite
surpassing in richness the Golden Feather. It is not, however, so
generally useful as the latter, as it must have a sunny situation and
a nice friable soil, for on both heavy and light soils it is apt to die
off in patches, and leave most ugly blanks in the lines. It can be
propagated by cuttings or by division.

Golden Thymes.—There are two golden Thymes that may be
turned to good account in planting the flower garden. One is known
in the catalogues as Thymus citriodorus aureus marginatus, and the

other, as the Golden Fleece Thyme. The first-mentioned, commonly

known as the Golden Thyme, forms dense lines about five inches in
* height, and the same in width, and if it is not watered overhead it
April.

118 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN QUIDE.

is very effective. The Golden Fleece, which is a sport from the
other, is dwarfer and rather richer in colour. They are both readily
increased by cuttings, or by dividing the old plants, and are the most
highly coloured when they have the advantage of a warm, sunny
situation.

Sedum acre elegans.—This form of the common stone-crop is of
a creamy colour, and as it forms a dense band of any desired width,
about two inches in height, it will,in many cases, be found very
useful. It can be multiplied by division, and is quite hardy, except-
ing on cold, wet soils.

NOTES ON ABUTILONS,
FOR THE GREENHOUSE AND FLOWER GARDEN.

BY GEORGE GORDON,

pea BUTILONS, of which several species have long been
Af (se f known in English gardens as robust-growing green-

| house plants, have, of late years, acquired increased
importance because of the decorative value of the

~~ recently introduced kinds. The species with which
gardeners of the old school are best acquainted are A. striatum and
A. venosum, which produce large, bell-shaped flowers of a reddish-
orange, veined with yellow, and have large, handsome foliage. But
these grow so rapidly and produce such long-jointed shoots, that
they soon reach the top of a lofty conservatory, and are practically
worthless for small houses, and consequently they are seldom seen,
excepting it be in large structures. The new kinds differ from these
in the character of the growth, as well as in the leaf-colouring, and
in the more plentiful production of flowers.

One of the first of these which may be characterized as of recent
introduction is, 4. Thompsont, which has acquired a certain degree
of fame as a golden bedder. Its large leaves are profusely blotched
and marked with bright yellow when fully exposed to the sun, and
masses of it enclosed with a band of some dark-leaved plant, the
coleus, for example, produce a striking effect, and form a charming
relief from the yellow-leaved geraniums and other golden bedders
now so common. In Hyde Park, for several years past, some of the
largest beds of coleus have had plants of this Abutilon dotted over
them at; a distance of fifteen inches apart, and the effect has been
wonderfully good. The plants have had abundant space for the de-
velopment of the foliage, and the rich golden variegation, in
combination with a groundwork of dark foliage, has been very
effective. The best results are obtained by putting out spring-
struck plants, strong and well established in five-inch pots, and
about eight inches in height.

The variegated variety of A. vewillarium, known tv ,those well
acquainted with greenhouse plants, is very dwarf and slender in

|
:

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 119

growth. The leavesare small, and richly marked with yellow. This,
also, has proved a most valuable bedder, as by putting out strong
plants, and pegging down the shoots, it forms excellent marginal
lines, and if the situation is open, the foliage has a very rich appear-
ance. It is, perhaps, one of the finest of golden edging plants, and
although there is more difficulty in working up a stock than of the
golden feather or the golden-leaved geraniums, it can be heartily
recommended for the more prominent beds. It is also admirably
adapted for planting round the outside of vases or baskets, either
in the conservatory or out of doors, and also for baskets suspended
in the conservatory.

There is yet another variegated form, namely, A. sellowiana mar-
moratum, which was distributed last year. This, like the first
mentioned, is of upright growth, but it is more robust, and the
leaves are larger, but they do not appear to be quite so richly
coloured; but in the latter respect it will probably improve con-
siderably when subjected to a fair trial out of doors. Itis a good
plant for conservatory specimens, and it will most likely be also of
considerable value for the flower garden.

The white-flowered Abutilon, raised in America a few years
since, and now quite common in English nurseries, under the desig-
nation of A. Boule de Neige, has proved of far greater value than
was at first anticipated. It is of compact growth, commences to
bloom whilst in a small state, and continues to produce its white

flowers profusely and continuously throughout the season. The

flower-stems are more rigid than those of striatum, and others, and
they consequently stand well out from the foliage, and appear to
greater advantage. Planted out in the flower garden, it grows
freely, and blooms in the most profuse manner throughout the
summer.

At the February meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society,
Messrs. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea, exhibited, under the name of
A. Darwini, a very compact and free flowering kind, with elegant
foliage, and bright orange and red flowers. This is, perhaps, the
most free flowering kind yet introduced, for although the plants
‘were only eighteen inches or so in height, they were loaded with
flowers. Examples of it were planted out last year in the Glas-
nevin Botanic Gardens, and nothing could have proved more satis-
factory, for they continued to produce flowers in abundance until
quite late in the autumn, and when lifted, put in pots, and placed
‘im the greenhouse, they soon recovered from tne check, and com-

-menced to flower again. It is not yet in commerce, but it will very

likely be offered in the course of the season, and is well worthy of a
place in the smallest collection of greenhouse plants.

' Abutilons are so easily grown as to require very few remarks
‘bearing on the cultural details. They may all be readily propagated
‘by means of cuttings of small side-shoots taken off in the spring or
early part of the summer. Cuttings obtained from plants that have
‘been started in a gentle heat strike the most readily when they can
‘be placed in a propagating pit. If there is a greenhouse only avail-
able for the work, cuttings that have become rather firm will be the

April.

120 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

most suitable, as they will not be so likely to damp off. They suc-
ceed admirably in good, turfy loam, leaf-mould, and a small propor-
tion of sand. A light, airy position is the most conducive to a firm,
short-jointed growth, and an abundant bloom.

When growing freely, plentiful supplies of soft water will be
required, but in the winter the soil should be kept just moist only.
In the spring, prune the shoots back to two or three joints from the
base, and when they begin to make. new growth, turn them out of
the pots, reduce the ball of soil slightly, and put in one or two sizes
larger ; no further repotting or stopping will be required through-
out the season. Those intended for the flower garden must be
hardened off, and planted out towards the end of May, and they
should have a sunny situation. If it is intended to keep them over
the winter, lift at the end of September, put in the smallest pots
possible, winter in the greenhouse, and prune them back in the
spring.

FORMATION OF THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

1D extremely simple are the first principles to be observed
in the laying out of a kitchen garden, that they may
be disposed of, as principles, in a few words. The
ground should be rectangular, and slightly sloping to
SS the south, divided into convenient-sized plots, with
good walks of sufficient width between; it should be effectually
drained; the soil should be a deep fertile loam; there should be
sheltering plantations on the north and east, substantial boundary
walls on all four sides, and a suitable extent should be screened by
means of hedges or walls, to serve as frame ground and compost
and rubbish yard. Finally, there must be an abundant water
supply, and the climate must be genial, and characterized by an
equable temperature, never very cold in winter, not subject to
severe frosts in the later days of spring, and exempt from the trying
times of excessive heat and drought by which the summer is occa-
sionally characterized in many parts of Great Britain, which may
be described as less than perfect for horticultural purposes.

The amateur need not take alarm at this brief sketch of essential
primary principles. Vegetables and fruit are produced in plenty
where none of them can be fully realized, and, from first to last,
gardening in this country is a continuous conflict with difficulties.
We look out of window on one of our own kitchen plots, which in
shape approximates to avery long wedge, or a cross between a
parabola and an isosceles triangle. From another window we view
another plot which is of no shape at all, but comes nearest toa
rhomboid out of joint, the sides and angles violently unequal, so
that symmetrical division is impossible. The first piece is embel-
lished with a brook that overflows half the ground when extra
heavy rains occur, and is as dry as dust in a droughty summer.
The other piece consists of untamed clay, with water at a depth of

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 121

eighteen inches six months out of twelve, and the whole exposed to
the bitterest east wind that ever blew in any part of the home
counties. We have other pieces much more favourably situated, but
we are bound to say of these adjuncts to the home garden that we
obtain from them a great variety and an abundance of vegetables
and fruits of the finest quality, the result simply of suitable manage-
ment. In what the suitable management consists will be explained
as we proceed ; our object in referring to these gardens is simply to
indicate at starting that we do not for our own use possess gardens
representative of the essential primary principles. In all practical
matters there is a compromise of some sort to be accomplished, and
hence in working outa theory or a scheme, allowance must be made
for friction, the defects of material, and human fallibility.

It is well, however, to keep in mind all that is required, for
much may be done by the exercise of skill and patience to remove
or modify the various impediments to success that will have to be
encountered as we go on. Whatever the soil or situation, the
“laying out”’ should be a very simple matter. It may be prudent
to plant a shrubbery, and intersect it with winding walks and flower
borders, on one or on all sides of the kitchen garden. But whatever
the kind of boundary taste or convenience may suggest, we must
have rectangular plots,and symmetrical angular divisions, where the
work of the kitchen garden is to be carried on; and the amateur who
enters upon the business with no experience to fall back upon, may
be content for a time with grass walks, or narrow ways marked with
a few inches of coal ashes, and by the aid of these carry on the
work until a definite idea is arrived at as to the most convenient and
serviceable method of settling the configuration of the ground. In
taking an old garden, you take the system with it, and, generally
speaking, it will be well to adapt operations to that system, even if
it be a baa one, rather than to attempt a revolution, for that is sure
to prove acostly business. Before altering an old garden, a prudent
man will consider the cost, and the probability that it is better
adapted to the locality and tothe circumstances of its owner than at
first appears. At all events, our advice to the amateur who takes a
garden ready made is make the best of it as it is, and be in no haste
to make important alterations, for they will cost money and inter-
rupt the work of production, and when accomplished may prove to
be alterations only, and not improvements.

In breaking up a piece of grass land, you have at least the ad-
vantage of your ideas as to what a kitchen garden should be. You
can make your boundaries and walks, and the forms and sizes of the
several plots and plantations in accordance with your own theory of
a perfect garden, so far, at least, as the extent of the ground, the
nature of the soil, and other inevitable conditions will allow. Now
in this case, the two matters of vital importance are the boundaries
and the drainage. In making the boundaries, it will be well to con-
sider, in the very first start, to wkat extent will shelter be needful,
and of what should it consist? A broad belt of wood or coppice
affords the best of shelter against the keen east winds that in many
parts make havoc of our gardens in the months of March and April.

April.

122 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

If a site can be selected on the west or south of a sheltering hill or
wood, the gain will be great in those seasons when “ winter lingers
in the lap of spring.”’ But it may be that the land is exposed to
all the winds of heaven, and in that case shelter will be of the
utmost value. Dwarf walls and close-boarded fences are generally
considered valuable for the purposes of shelter, but in truth their
value is but slight. It is well to count the cost and probable
efficiency of a “cheap” wall before determining on its adoption.
To grow fruit satisfactorily is impossible on walls of four or five
feet, and a boarded fence is of less value than a dwarf brick wall for
fruit growing. But a cheap wall is a screen to shut out curious
eyes, and it constitutes a moral if not a material barrier against
thieves, who will often hesitate to get over a wall when they would
not hesitate to mount a rough open fence, or even, with the help of
sacks, over-top a hedge of holly. He who encloses his own land,
and has in view to grow good fruit, will be wise to build a wall ten
to fourteen feet high, the material stone or brick, with strengthen-
ing pillars, and a coping of six to eight inches. The minimum height
for a wall to be of any use in fruit growing is eight feet. Sucha
wall should be nine inches thick, and have a coping projecting for-
wards. If from eight to fourteen feet, the thickness should be thir-
teen and a half inches, and the coping six to eight inches. If from
fourteen to twenty feet, the thickness must be eighteen inches, and
the coping should project at least a foot. Hollow walls are formed
by placing the bricks on edge, alternately with their faces and ends
outside, so that every second brick is a tie, and every course alter-
nates in the order of facing, so that every end comes over and under
a full face. By this means a nine-inch wall of great strength is
obtained, and a considerable saving of bricks is effected.

When a live fence is preferred to a wall, the question will arise,
What shall it be? Thorn is the quickest and cheapest, and if well
managed makes an effectual fence; but it is not well adapted for a
garden. Common privet soon makes a dense evergreen boundary,
useful alike for shelter and to impose a check on thieves, especially
when it attains a height of six or seven feet. The beautiful large-
leaved privet, Ligustrum ovalifolium, is as fast-growing and hand-
Some a plant as can be used fora garden fence, and will cost but
little more than the common privet. Everybody knows that holly
is the finest of all boundary plants, but it should never be planted
by a tenant-at-will unless the landlord is willing to pay fer it, and
in any case it will require the growth of years to thicken into a
barrier and make a fair return for the capital and labour invested
in it. For general purposes, common privet is the very best of
boundary plants for enclosing a garden, for it is not only evergreen
and grows as close asa mat if planted thick enough, but it soon gets
up to a useful height, so that no one can see through or over it.
One of our pieces, which abuts on a road on one side and an open
meadow on the other, is fenced in as follows: next the road, an “ un-
climbable” iron fence and two rows of privet, with Lombardy poplars
twenty feet apart, and standard Ligustrum ovalifolium between the
poplars. On the opposite side, next the meadow, a strong five-feet

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 123

fence of oak posts and rails, leaning over towards the meadow, and
rendered additionally difficult of access by adeep ditch on that side.
Within the fence, two rows of common privet, and Lombardy poplars
twenty feet apart. On this side there are no standard privets, as
we desire as free a range as possible for the eye over the open
country. On the third side, whichis seen from the house, and abuts
only on a field path, there is a fence of posts and rails, poplars at
twenty feet, two rows of holly next the rails, and one row of ever-
green berberry, Berberis aquifolium, inside the hollies, forming a
dense screen. On the fourth side is a mixed shrubbery, forming
the boundary that way of the pleasure garden.

The boundaries being defined, we proceed to consider how far
drainage is needed. It matters not what the staple may be, if it is
water-logged periodically, and retains water for any length of time,
drainage will not only improve it, but operate like magic in increas-
ing its productiveness and rendering it suitable for many forms of
vegetation that will not thrive on cold damp land. If it be possible,
the whole of the drains should be carried under walks, and if neces-
sary they should be taken direct, or as direct as possible, to the
natural outfall. In most cases, a main drain formed of a pipe six
inches in diameter should be laid along the lower side of the ground
opening to the outfall, and the other drains communicating with it
should be formed of half-pipe and sole, or three-inch whole pipe,
with sole attached, and all connections should be made by turning
the pipe slightly in the direction of the flowin the main, because
water does not easily turn at a right angle, and a quick removal
without conflict is required. The depth of the drains will depend
upon the set of the land and the nature of the outfall, but a depth
of two feet is better than a depth of one foot, and a depth of three
feet better still. The result will be the more satisfactory if the
channels are cut with a firm bottom by an experienced workman,
and filled in over the pipes with chalk, or limestone, or shale, or
brickbats. If you cannot command hard stuff for the purpose, use
brushwood, for when covered with earth and left undisturbed, it is
scarcely to be spoken of asa perishable substance, and it greatly
facilitates the downward passage of water to the pipes. In heavy
low-lying clay lands where moles abound, it is often necessary to lay
shallow drains, because of the small fall obtainable. In such a case,
* of one inch bore are to be preferred, and the distance may range

om twelve to twenty feet. In lighter soils, in which deeper drains
may be Jaid, they may be thirty to sixty feet apart, and the last-
named measure answers well for dividing walks, so that walks and
_ drains may go together, leaving sixty-feet plots between, which may
‘be again divided into beds and quarters. Ss

Tur Merroporitan Frorar Socrery will hold an exhibition of Dahlias, Gladioli,
and other autumn flowers, at the Alexandra Palace, Muswell Hill, on Tuesday and
Wednesday, August 24 and 25.

L. C., Ireland.—Seeds of ‘the Egg-plants. reported on in April, 1874, were
obtained from Mr. Bull, New Plant Merchant, King’s Road, Chelsea, London.

April.

124 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

APPLES FOR THE MILLION.

Fare} HE high prices of first-class market fruits at the present time appear to

a Px be scarcely consistent with the fact that nearly all kinds of fruits were
produced in unusual plenty in the past season. The Gardener's Maga-
zine explains the parodox by the allegation that in middle-class gardens,
fruits and vegetables obtain less attention than formerly, in consequence
of the misdirection of the energies of gardeners in favour of vegetable-tinsel in
the shape of weedy stove plants, and the meretricious magnificence of the latest
styles of bedding. Consistently with this view of the case, our contemporary sup-
plies from the pen of Mr. John Scott, of the Merriott Nurseries, Crewkerne,
Somerset, a peculiarly useful article on the apple-tree. It appears that Mr. Scott
has been called on to advise a clergyman who desires to provide his poorer
parishioners with the best kind cf apple trees and other useful things for their
gardens, and gives publicity to his counsels in the hope that they may prove ex-
tensively useful. He says the apple willthrive ina greater variety of soils than
any other fruit tree, and as it flowers late, it often escapes injury from spring frosts
that cripple all other kinds of hardy fruits. But the conditions that suit the apple
best are a deep moist loan and a warm moist climate—hence the productiveness of
the orchards of the west of England. In respect to the form of the tree, Mr. Scott
votes for the old-fashioned standard, with its noble growth and abundant produc-
tion, as the most profitable tree of any kind that can be planted. But where there
is not room for standard apple trees, dwarf bushes grafted on the true Paradise
stock are much to be desired in the interests of the household, for though small
trees cannot produce the bushels that may be gathered from great old orchard trees,
the bushes, if well made in the nursery, become fruitful soon after planting, and
while they give good crops commensurate with their size, the many varieties that
may be grownon asmall plot of ground render them more useful than a great tree
giving a glut of one kind, the season of whick perhaps may be restricted. In
selecting the best sorts, preference should be given, we are told, to handsome fruit
of good quality and long keeping. It is for the amateur pomologist to grow the
finer dessert kinds, which are for the most part tender in constitution, and of little
use in the kitchen—the apples that are most in demand everywhere being such as
look well, cook well, and keep well, and, given these qualities, the more fruitful the
trees are the better. Mr. Scott selects the Ceddini us the best of all apples, and the sort
which should be planted where there is room for only one tree. It is of good size and
pleasing colour, deep yellow streaked with red, and equally useful for cooking or the
dessert. It is in season from September to Christmas. The best six selected from 1200
sorts grown inthe Merriott Nurseries are Stirling Castle, Keswick Codlin, Hawthorn-
den, Forge, Alfriston or Shepherd's Fame, and the Dutch Mignonne. These we ure ad-
vised to rely upon for an abundance of the finest apples from August to May, and all
of them are culinary fruit saye the last, which is equally good for cooking or the
dessert, Ifthese seven sorts are not enough we are offered twenty-four in addition,
the names of which are Devonshire Quarrenden, Red Astrachan, Lord Suffield,
Pott's Seedling, Jolly Beggar, London Pippin, Nelson Codlin, Rymer, Cox’s Orange,
Beauty of Kent, Hoary Morning, Mére de Menage, Cockpit, Blenheim Pippin,
Barcelona, Pearmain, Brabant Bellefleur, Court Pendu Plat, Royal Russet,
Fearn’s Pippin, Aromatic Russet, Braddich’s Nonpareil, Winter Pearmain
Costard. The final advice as to pruning is very brief and simple. Mr. Scott says
the trees should not be pruned or pinched at all, for pruning and pinching defer
the date of fruit production and seriously diminish the health and vigour of the tree.
Every tree tends naturally to reproduce its kind, and the surest way to insure a
crop is to interfere with nature as little as possible.

Tue West or Enetanp Rose Suow will be held on Tuesday, June 29, in the
Shire Hall, Hereford.

An InTERNATIONAL HorticULTURAL ExurBiTion will be held at Amsterdam
in the spring of 1876, and as it has the support of all the leading horticulturists
and public men in the Netherlands, it will probably be a grand affair.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 125

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR APRIL.

Away to that snug nook ; for the thick shower
Rushes on stridingly. Ay, now it comes,
Glancing about the leaves with its first drips,
Like snatches of faint music. Joyous thrush,

It mingles with thy song, and beats soft time

To thy bubbling shrillness. Now it louder falls,
Pattering, like the far voice of leaping rills;

And now it breaks upon the shrinking clumps
With acrush of many sounds—the thrush is still.
There are sweet scents about us: the violet hides
On that green bank; the primrose sparkles there ;
The earth is grateful to the teeming clouds,

And yields a sudden freshness to their kisses.

But now the shower slopes to the warm west,
Leaving a dewy track; and, see, the big drops,
Like falling pearls, glistenin the sunny mist.

The air is clear again, and the far woods

Shine out in their early green. Let’s onward then,
For the first blossoms peep about our path,

The lambs are nibbling the short dripping grass,
And the birds are on the bushes.

sa, NNUALS will require thinning out, and the straggling kinds will be the
Sl better for topping.

AzALEAS AND (AMELLIAS should be shaded while making their new
growth, and syringe frequently.

Beppine Puants to be got from under glass as fast as possible, to
harden off in the open air. Never plant immediately after removing from warm
pit or greenhouse ; but let them have at least a fortnight in the open air, kept
rather dry, and with some protection at night, in case of frost.

CALCEOLARIAS in pots must now have abundance of water, and be shaded
during midday ; as the trusses rise give liquid manure twice a week. Keep the
plants cool and airy, and tie in time to keep them from getting out of shape.

Ce.trery.—Prick out young plants into boxes or on a slight hotbed, and at all
favourable opportunities give air as soon as they have established themselves.

CuRYSANTHEMUMS struck from cuttings now will make fine plants, and growers
are advised to prepare at once for raising the whole of the stock required for the
conservatory aud other purposes.

ConsERVATORY.—The surface of the bed should be stirred, and some fresh soil
added, in order to maintain the plants in a vigorous condition. Shoots that are
rambling and unsi tly should be pinched back promptly. Plants placed in the
house during’ their period of blooming should be carefully attended to, and should
not have too much water, or they may become diseased. Azaleas, however, require
liberal supplies of water while in bloom, but water must not be permitted to fall
upon the flowers, and the atmosphere should be kept moderately dry.

CucumBers IN Fruit may be kept going now by linings of grass mowings, if
stable manure is scarce. EN ah

CucumBeErs ror Rinoes to be kept as hardy as possible, but not to be checked.
Give them a shift if they require it, and frequently sprinkle over the foliage.

EvyzerGREENS.—This is a capital time to move them, and to plant beds, borders,
and edges. If the weather is dry, water freely, or, better still, mulch heavily.

Ferns in pots require either a shift or a renewal of the soil. In either case
turn them out, and break away some of the old stuff from the outside of the roots
end repot either in the same or larger pots, using good turfy loam for all strong
growing kinds, and those that must have peat, to have best peat in rough lumps.
Ferns are too often starved, owing to the common but erroneous notion that a poor
sandy peat is sufficient for them, which is a mistake.

Fvoustas not yet repotted must be attended to quickly. Large shifts suit them
admirably.

Grass Turr must have every necessary attention now, or the consequences will
be a burnt-up lawn by July, and the predominance of coarse grasses.

; Heatus and other hard-wooded plants coming into bloom should have plenty
of air.

April.

126 ' THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Hottyuocks planted now will bloom well this season, so there is still time for
those who have not yet made up their selections.

Kircnren Garpren.—There cannot be too much vigilance now in keeping down
weeds, hoeing between crops, earthing up peas and beans, and promoting growth
by any other means that suggest themselves, such as top-dressings of soot and

mano.
: Kinney Brans may be sown in the open ground now; sow also a few in pots,
to make good any that miss in the rows. Sow also in pots or pans sufficient seeds
of scarlet-runners for a first planting, to give an early supply.

Metons to be kept regular in growth, and the vines some distance apart, to en-
sure a healthy leaf development. Plenty ofsun and moderate watering are essentials
of success in the early growth; and syrirging early in the morning, will be found
advantageous. As soon asa crop is set, soak the bed with tepid water, and con-
tinue syringing until the fruit is fully formed ; then discontinue it.

Orcuty Hovst.—Shade during bright weather with tiffany, or some other
suitable material, removing it early in the afternoon. Plants requiring repotting
must be attended to as soon as they are fairly in a growing state. Keep up the
moisture in the atmosphere by sprinkling the paths, and shut up early in the after-
noon.

PELARGONIUMS required for late blooming should be stopped now, and in such a
manner as to make well-shaped plants.

Pinus showing fruit to have clear liquid manure given warm and weak.
Syringe to be used before shutting np. Succession plants to be kept liberally venti-.
lated, to induce a robust growth.

Pinxs anv Pansizs should have a rich top-dressing now, takiag care to stir
the surface of the beds before it is applied. ;

Porarors.—Protect the shoots of potatoes which have made their appearance
above ground by drawing earth over them, and continue planting for the main
crop.

Rosrs under glass, if plagued with fly, must be fumigated. Most of the good
perpetuals and teas are now in full bloom in unheated houses, This is a good time
to plant out roses in conservatory borders, and to prepare beds for turning out
plants from small potsin May.

Srakate AND Ruvpars.—Where fresh beds are wanted, they should now be
made.

Sow turnip radishes for succession, scorzonera and salsafy in drills one foot
apart, purslane on a warm sunny border ; savoys and Scotch kale for supplying
the table in early winter, carrots for main crop. Brussels sprouts for early winter,
cabbage, cauliflowers, and lettuces.

Srove Prants recently potted be kept on a good bottom-heat. Shift gesneras,
eloxinias, clerodendrons, and other fast-growing plants. Justicias out of bloom to
be potted in peat, rotten dung, and loamy turf, equal parts. As fast as plants come
into bloom, remove them to a cooler atmosphere.

Srrawsereizs that have been forced require to be carefully hardened off before
removing them from the protection of the glass,

VeGreTaBLeE Marrow sown now will produce almost as early as those sown a
month since. It is best to get the plauts on singly in pots, as they are shorter and
stronger when turned out than if grown several ina pot and allowed to sprawl
about and spindle away their strength.

Vines from eyes this season should be shifted on as fast as they fill their pots
with roots. They may have large shifts now, and be kept constantly syringed, to
ensure a growth of strong rods. Vines with fruit beginning to colour to have
plenty of air when weather permits, and especially for a short time before the sun
gets on the house, so that the first vapours that rise may be carried off at once.
All outside borders that are covered now are the worse for the covering. Remove
it, to allow the sun to warm the roots. =r

Wintzr’, Greens to be sown now in large breadths for the main"erop, especially
Brussels sprouts, collards, Scotch kale, and savoy, x

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 127

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

SAOYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY’S adjourned annual general
AS A) meeting was held on the 9th ult., Viscount Bury, President of the
Mf PAs Society, in the chair. The President, inrecommending the adoption of
\f the amended report, stated that Her Majesty’s Commissioners had at last
acknowledged the legality of the Council, and the two bodies were now
on the most friendly terms. After a long discussion and several amendments had
been propcsed and rejected, the report was unanimously adopted.

Roya Horricunrruran Socrety’s Exhibition of Hyacinths and other spring
flowers, on the 17th inst., was attended with a large measure of success. It was
in some respects better than was generally anticipated, for the prizes were reduced
considerably in value, and it was feared the competition would not be so spirited as
at previous exhibitions. Hyacinths, of course, constituted the chief feature of the
exhibition. Tulips and narcissus were exceedingly well represented, and there was
a grand display of cyclamens, and miscellaneous subjects were especially attractive.

Tue Internationa, Exuisrrion oF Fruir AnD Fiowers to be held at Edin-
burgh in September next, promises to be most successful in every respect. It will
be held under the auspices of the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society, and as
the management has been ably supported by the inhabitants, it has been possible to
issue a very liberal schedule of prizes.

Toe Nationan HorticutturaL Exursition held annually at Old Trafford,
under the auspices of the Manchester Botanical and Horticultural Society, is to be
on the same grand scale as in previous years. £1000 is offered in prizes. It com-
mences May 14, and continues open until the Thursday in Whitsun week.

Messrs. Hoorrr anv Co., Covent Garden Market, W.C., offer prizes amounting
in the aggregate to £52 10s., for the produce of two new American potatoes grown
from one pound of ssts. The conditions of competition will be furnished by the
firm.

Tue Kumaguat ORANGE (Citrus Japonica) is one of the most ornamental of
the family when well grown, but unfortunately it is most difficult of cultivation.
It is seldom seen in collections, and it is worthy of notice that at the meeting of
the Floral Committee of the Royal Horticultural, on the 3rd of March, Mr.
Sherratt, of Knypersley, Cheshire, exhibited a branch bearing upwards of
fifty fruits. The fruit is of a rich golden yellow, oval, rather smaller than a
pigeon’s egg, and delicately perfumed. Although it may be raised from seed, it
must, to insure plentiful production of fruit, be grafted on Limonia trifoliata. It
has been suggested that it would succeed out of doors insheltered situations in the
west of England, but it is not likely that it will produce its fruit without the pro-
tection of a greenhouse when in bloom. When furnished with fruit as in the
case of the specimen referred to, itis one of the finest of ornamental plants for the
conservatory, especially during the winter season.

Mr. A. McKenzig, or ALEXANDRA PALACEAND Park, haying well-nigh completed
the outdoor worksand glass structures there, is prepared to take commissions in land-
scape gardening and the improvementof landed estates. We trust that Mr. McKenzie’s™
engagements on private properties will not deprive us of his services in a public
capacity, for his admirable work on the Thames Embankment, in Finsbury Park,
and elsewhere, constitutes him an important benefactor. It is satisfactory to learn
that, although now enabled to enlarge his sphere of operations, he will continue on
the official staff of the Alexandra Palace Company.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Worms in Fern Casz.—J. C. J.—Lime water is the best for dislodging the
worms. It is prepared by putting a quarter of a peck of unslaked lime into a
gallon of water. It must stand until quite clear, and then be poured off carefully
80 as to avoid disturbing the lime in the bottom of the vessel. The case should be
watered two or three times with an interval of three or four days between each.
Tf the ferns are not thoroughly established in the case, the best course will be to
take them out and renew the soil, for if the bed is full of worms the drainage is

April.

128 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

most probably choked up, and the soil in consequence likely to become sour. The
principal bulk of the soil should be removed from about the roots of the plants, and
a sharp look-out kept for worms to prevent any of them being returned to the
ease. The ferns will experience no material check. Larger quantities of lime
water may be made in the same proportions.

CycLaMEN Seep.—Z#. P. S.—The leading cultivators of cyclamens fertilize
the flowers from which they are desirous of obtaining seed, with pollen obtained
from the flowers of another plant. Care is taken to select plants with the finest
flowers only for seed raising, and to take the pollen from flowers equally good.
Cyclamens, however, usually produce sufficient seed without artificial fertilization,
but the seedlings do not, as a rule, produce flowers of so good a quality as those
raised from seeds saved from others that have been fertilized artificially. The plants
require no special management to enable them to bring the seed to maturity. They
require a rather shady position in the greenhouse or in a pit, from the time they go
out of bloom until the seed is ripe, and moderate supplies of water. After the seed
is ripe they should be kept rather dry at the roots for a period of six weeks or so,
and then be turned out of the pots, the soil removed from about the roots, and be
repotted in clean pots, and a fresh compost, and afterwards be placed in a cold
frame, until the autumn, when they must be removed to the greenhouse.

Rosz Srep.—Violet.—The best course will be to allow the seed-pod to remain
until quite red, and when gathered place it in a seed drawer for two or three
weeks, The seed may then be sown thinly in a pan or box, covered lightly with
fine soil, and placed in a cold frame. The soil must be maintained in a moderately
moist condition only, until the young plants make their appearance, because of the
risk of the seed decaying from excess of moisture. It will be found a very easy
matter to open the pod and separate the seed. The latter will be in no way injured
if allowed to remain on the plant some weeks after perfectly ripe.

Stow Compvstion BomtEr.— Omega.—Probably the small boiler made by Messrs. ~
Deards, of Harlow, Essex, would suit you. We do not expect you will be able to
obtain a boiler as small as you appear to require. We should have thought gas
would have been the best for so small a structure, because of the little attention
required to keep the heat up. Of course, the water in the pipes will freeze if an
ordinary boiler is employed, in precisely the same manner as it did when heated by
gas, if the fire is not started early enough. Possibly you refer to the freezing of
the water in the meter, and not in the hotwater pipes. Messrs. Deards will doubt-
less afford you the fullest particulars in reference to the prices and sizes of their
slow combustion boilers.

Cametiias.—C, H. R.—There is no quick way of getting rid of the insects
with which the camellias are infested, and we can only advise you to examine the
plants carefully and remove all the insects visible with a piece of pointed stick,
and then thoroughly wash the plants, leaves and stems, with a sponge and warm
water, A little soft-soap or Gishurst compound should be at hand, aud the sponge
dipped into it as the washing proceeds, but neither of those must be used too freely,
because of the risk of injuring the young growths. It isa tedious task, but there
is no other really effectual way of cleaning the plants.

BEpDpInG GERANIUMS NoT FLOWERING.—Amateur.—Bedding geraniums usually
bloom most satisfactorily when planted in a sunny situation, and in warm, well-
drained soil. On cold, heavy soils it is desirable to dress the beds liberally with light
sandy stuff, and to raise them six inches or so above the general level of the garden.
The sloping sides of the beds can be covered with succulents such as Echeverias,
Sempervivums, Mesembryanthemums, Euonymus radicans variegata, or any of
the ivy-leaved geraniums—green or variegated leaved. If there iS an objection to
raise the beds as here suggested, the plants may be plunged in the pots, the rims of
the latter to be just covered with the soil. In moderately light and well-drained
soils the plants will, of course, bloom freely, whether the beds are raised or on the
level. Strong well-hardened plants struck in the autumn are decidedly preferable,
especially for cold soils, as they come into bloom much earlier than those struck
in the spring. When it is intended to plunge the plants they should, if the time
can be spared, ke shifted into five or six-inch pots, a few weeks beforehand.
Geraniums after they are well established should not be watered, for artificial
waterings encourage an excessive ]uxuriance, and the plants produce but few
flowers in consequence,

Ss,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 129

ALPINE PLANTS FOR COMMON BORDERS.
(With Coloured Illustration of Hepatica angulosa.)

feeweer|LPINE plants are understood to be peculiar in their
BH| requirements, and therefore difficult to cultivate. Ina
very general way this is true; but the exceptions are
so numerous, and the term “ Alpine” is so widely
~ comprehensive, that when the most careful and costly
arrangements have been made to suit the family, it will be found
that very many of them need no such arrangements at all, for they
thrive as well in the common border as on the best of rockeries ever
constructed in a garden. It happens, too, that a considerable pro-
portion of those Alpine plants that are not at all fastidious as to the
conditions of their existence, are extremely beautiful and interesting,
and it follows, therefore, that those who do not make special pro-
vision for these plants may, to some extent, enjoy their bright
presence in an ordinary garden. The levely plant here figured is
an example of the fact. It is a true Alpine, it is a scarce plant in
gardens, and almost unknown to the nursery trade. But it will
thrive gloriously in a common garden border, if managed as we
shall presently advise—the main feature of the management. con-
sisting, as we may as well announce at once, in leaving it undis-
turbed to take care of itself. We may find dozens, hundreds of
plants equally desirable, by selecting from such genera as epimedium,
iberis, saponaria, saxifraga, campanula, iris, and others that will be
named presently.

In our heavy clay land many first-class Alpines thrive without
any special aid in the way of rockery or drainage, they thrive as
common border plants. One of the very best is Phlox subulata, a
lovely early flowering tufted plant, that in our borders spreads
like chickweed, and flowers even more freely. We name this as an
example merely of an extreme case, but we do not advise that Alpine
plants should be extensively planted in common borders without
some previous consideration of their constitutional requirements.
It should be observed, in the first place, that these plants are, with
very few exceptions, so-hardy that they do not require any kind of
shelter, and for the most part a bleak north or east exposure is good
for them. But some of them, though hardy at home, are tender
abroad ; in other words, the bursts of warm weather that occur early
in the year in lowland districts urge them into growth too soon, and
they suffer afterwards through the return of winter weather. But
as a garden is for beauty and pleasure, we must associate with
true Alpines some plants that are not Alpines, and that perhaps are
‘more in need of shelter in spring, than those that properly belong
to high altitudes. Thus we come to the use of sheltered borders.
Now it will be obvious that for a thorough enjoyment of Alpine
plants and their proper associates, several aspects, and as we may
say, several local climates are required, and it is easy enough to
institute these accommodations in any garden that is not already

May,

130 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

fully occupied and beyond improvement. Sheltered borders and
borders facing north and east are all to be desired, but there are two
conditions essential in every case, and they are, first, that they
should be thoroughly well drained; and, secondly, somewhat re-
moved from the roots and overhanging boughs of large trees. As
for the soil, a deep sandy loam, or a somewhat loamy sand, will suit
the greater number of plants it might be thought desirable to intro-
duce, but it must be remembered that stations may be made for the
plants, so as to provide every clump with the soil known to be the
best adapted for its full development. Asto this station making, let
none of our readers be uneasy. We repeat that sandy loam, or a
loamy sand will suit a majority of the best of the Alpine plants that
are adapted for borders, and an admixture of lime rubbish or chalk
will improve such a soil for some plants, while sandy peat will im-
prove it for others. The case is by no means complicated ; it is, in
fact, verysimple. But a word of advice must be offered in reference
to the preparing of stations. A spoonful of prepared soil will be no
use. You must take out half a barrow-load at least of the staple,
and fill up the hole with the necessary compost. As a rule, a
good barrow-load will be none too much for one clump, and the
station should, as a rule, be deep rather than broad, for these plants
do not make much root near the surface, but go down in search of
nourishment, and to escape the distressing effects of summer drought
and winter cold. Most Alpine plants root deep, and that is one of
the secrets of their strong vitality in the midst of conditions which
appear inimical to vegetable life.

For the embellishment of an exposed border, the following are
most beautiful Alpine plants, that require only a well-drained, sandy
soil:—Avthionema cordifolium, Anemone alba, A. (Hepatica) angulosa,
A, stellata, A. fulgens, A. nemorosa, fl. pl., Arabis blepharophylla, A.
petrea, Adonis vernalis, Anthyllis montana, Achillea awrea, A. tomen-
tosa, Androsace ciliata, Armeria cephalotes, Antirrhinum rupestre,
Acena microphylla, Aubrietia Campbelli, Acantholimon glumaceum,
Aster alpinus, Campanula carpatica, C. cespitosa, C. muralis, C.
garganica, C. turbinata, Coroniilla varia, C. minima, Dianthus alpinus,
D. deltoides, Draba aizoides, D, cuspidata, Dondia epipactis, Hrinus
alpinus, Erodium manescavi, 2. macradenium, #. petreum, Erysimum
ochroleucum, Funkia albomarginata, FP. grandiflora, Gentiana acaulis,
Genista sagittalis, Geranium argenteum, G. sanguinewm, G. lancas-
triense, Gypsophila prostrata, G. repens, Lberis sempervirens, I. cori-
folia, Iris pumila, I. cristata, Linaria alpina, Linum alpinum, Luchnis
alpina, L. lagasce, Myosotis sylvatica, M. dissitiflora, Narcissus
juncifolius, Omphalodes verna, Phlox reptans, P. subulata, Potentilla
verna, Primula acaulis in variety, the most desirable being single
crimson, double crimson, double lilac, double white; Pulmonaria
virginica, Ranunculus alpestris, Sanguinaria canadensis, Saxifraga
hypnoides, S. ceespitosa, S. pulchella, Smilacina bifolia, Saponaria
ocymoides, Silene alpestris, S. shafta, Triteleia wniflora, Veronica
candida, V. saxatilis, Viola lutea.

The following require shelter such as a thick hedge or shrubbery
would afford, but must not be overshaded by trees :—Agquilegia

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 131

eerulea, A. alpina, A. glandulosa, Begonia Veitchi, Calandrinia
umbellata, Cypripedium spectabile (peat soil), Dielytra eximia, D.
spectabilis, Kpimedium pinnatum, E. macranthum (peat soil),
Hpipactis palustris (chalk), Gentiana asclepiadea, Gentiana bavarica,
Gymnadenia conopsea (peat), Iris reticulata, I. nudicaulis, Linum
narbonense, Lilium tenuifolium, L. longiflora, Iithospermum pros-
tratum, Myosotis azorica, Malua campanulata, Orchis foliosa (chalk),
O. latifolia (peat), Pyrola rotundifolia, Polemonium coeruleum varie-
gatum, Ranunculus parnassifolius, Rexia virginica, Sisyrinchium
unceps, S. grandiflorum, Trillium grandiflorum, T. ceruum, T.
erectum (peat, shade, damp), Viola pedata, Wulfenia carinthiaca,
Zapania nodiflora, Zauschneria californica.

When all the foregoing have been secured there remain hundreds
more of first-class excellence. It will be observed that we have not
included any sedums, or sempervivums, and very few saxifrages.
The purport of this article is to bring a few of the very finest
Alpines into every garden, and in view of ‘that object we can afford
to leave many good plants for the present unprovided for. ne at

CONSERVATORY AND DRAWING-ROOM PALMS.
BY WILLIAM COLE,
Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex, W.

ay4)A LMS hardy enough to be grown in the conservatory
and greenhouse throughout the year, are now plentiful,
and as they may be obtained at prices which place
them within the reach of those amateurs who are able
-— to bear the expense incidental to the management of a
conservatory, I shall, perhaps, be doing good service by pointing
out a few of the best, and giving a brief outline of their manage-
ment. The value of palms for decorative purposes has been pointed
out on more than one occasion in the pages of the Fuoran Worzp,
and it is not, therefore, necessary to say much in praise of them ;
but I would remark, in passing, that no plants with ornamental
leafage can be more easily grown, or are more capable of with-
standing the effects of rough treatment. They are unsurpassed in
elegance and usefulness, whether for the embellishment of the
dinner-table, or the drawing-room, or for the decoration of the con-
servatory or vestibule. Moreover, unless shifted on freely, and
placed in a high temperature, they do not soon outgrow the struc-
ture in which they are placed, and, unlike numerous other plants,
they require no training or other attention, beyond repotting them
every second or third year, and supplying them with water.

To cultivate Palms successfully is a very easy task, even to the
amateur, with a very slight acquaintance with horticultural matters,
and in the way of compost they simply require a mixture of fibrous
peat and loam broken up rather roughly, and well incorporated

May.

132 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ether, in the proportion of one part of the former to two of the
aes and Hhiea's ‘mall quantity of sharp silver-sand added. The
pots must be cleaned and efficiently drained by placing a few crocks
regularly in the bottom, and then covering them with a layer of
rough material. Until the plants are of large size, pots two sizes
larger than those previously occupied should, as a rule, be employed,
for palms are most impatient of having their roots disturbed, and,

RHAPIS FLABELLIFORMIS.

by using pots of the size here mentioned, they will only require
repotting every second or third year. In transferring them to
larger pots, the crocks at the bottom of the ball of soil may be
removed, but the roots must not be disturbed in any other way, or
the plants will receive a check from which they will be a long time
in recovering. The soil must be pressed firm between the sides of
the pot and the ball, and sufficient space left. on the surface for

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 133

them to receive liberal supplies of water without difficulty. From
early in the spring until the autumn, the supplies of soft water must
be most liberal, but not excessive; and, during the remaining part
of the year, the soil should be maintained in a moderately moist
state. During the growing season, an occasional syringing, or a
washing with a watering can, to which a rose has been affixed, will
materially assist in keeping the foliage clean, and in maintaining
the plants in health. Palms kept in the drawing-room, or other
indoor apartment, should be taken outside once a week, and have
the leaves sponged to remove the dust from them. Here we grow
a large collection of both stove and greenhouse kinds, and from the
latter I have selected the undermentioned as being specially suited
to the requirements of amateurs :—

Areca aurea, an elegant species, with graceful pinnate leaves and
yellow stems; first class for the dinner-table.

A. rubra, similar to the preceding, but more robust, and with
purplish stems.

Chamerops Fortunei, a handsome fan palm, of rather dwarf
growth, very cheap and very hardy.

C. humilis, similar in character to the preceding species, but
smaller and of dwarfer growth, neat and useful, also cheap.

Corypha australis, one of the smallest of fan palms, handsome
and useful for windows.

Kentia australis, a handsome species, with bold pinnate leaves,
very handsome and desirable.

Latania borbonica, one of the most ornamental and best known
of fan palms ; it is very cheap, and should be one of the first pur-
chased.

Phenix dactylifera. This is the Date Palm, ard is well worth a
place for the interest attached to it, as well as for its distinctness
and beauty. With the aid of a cucumber frame a stock of plants
can be readily raised from the stones of the dates purchased at the
shops, and small plants may be obtained at a low rate.

Rhapis flabelliformis, a beautiful palm, small in growth and
distinct. It produces a large number of stems averaging an inch in
diameter, as shown in the accompanying illustration, and these are fur-
nished with small palmate leaves. Small plants with a single stem,
are very pretty, and well suited for jardinets and windows.

Seaforthia elegans, a robust and very elegant palm, with bold,
graceful pinnate leaves.

Thrinae parviflora, one of the most elegant of fan palms, and
worthy of a place in the smallest collection.

Exectro-pLatinc NAtuRAL FLowers.—An ingenious application of electro-
metallurgy has recently been brought before the notice of the Society of Arts. It
consists in the application of a coat of silver, by means of electro-deposition, on
natural leaves and flowers. By this means very delicate ornaments are produced,
since the precise form and texture of the natural leaf is preserved under the thin
silver film. The special process by which these results are attained is the invention
of Mr. Denton.

May.

134 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

MOUNT LEBANON CANDYTUFT.

“:11E charming plant here figured is a close ally of
# the well-known iberis of our garden, and nearly resem-
my bles the pretty Lberidifolia rotundifolia, which, like it, is
Bra) anative of the East. The Lebanon candytuft, Wthio-
Ait nema coridifolium, is a cruciferous plant, originally met
with by Labillardiere on Mount Lebanon, whence it has lately been
obtained for cultivation in this country. Messrs. Backhouse and
Son, of York, have secured it through the aid of the Botanic

Movnr Lrpanon Canpyrurr ({THIONEMA CORIDIFOLIUM).

Garden at Vienna, and it now has a place in their catalogue. It is
a genuine alpine, quite hardy in English gardens, growing in neat,
dark green tufts, and producing handsome heads of rosy-purple
flowers. A dry position is essential for its preservation, but it can
endure any amount of cold.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 135

ov

THE PREPARATION OF BEDDING PLANTS.

BY JOHN WALSH.

SN our uncertain climate there is much risk in filling the
sH| flower beds with their summer occupants until quite
the end of May, for until after the third week of the
month, we are not sure whether they will be exposed
to a frost of sufficient severity to blacken them terribly
or not. We can hardly feel safe even after the last week in the
month, for it is only a year or two ago that we had a frost in the
early part of June, which did much mischief to tender things; and
twelve years since, the country was visited by a sharp frost in July,
which, in some parts, did considerable damage to coleus, dahlias, late
planted potatoes, and other tender things. There is hardly a day in the
whole year in which we may not have a frost, but, practically, there
is not much danger after the 20th inst.; and as it is important to
plant the beds as early as it can be done with safety, the work should
be commenced by the foregoing date, and pressed on as briskly as
possible afterwards.

During the three weeks we have before us, there is much to be
done; the beds have to be cleared of the spring-flowering plants,
which, by the way, should not be done until the last moment, for it
is better to delay the planting fora week or ten days than to break
up the bed whilst it is at its best; and the plants have to be har-
dened and prepared for the beds—a task by no means light. The
spring bedders are later than usual this year, and as the beds
should not be disturbed until the plants are past their best, but
few beds will be available for planting before quite the end of the
month. In preparing the beds intended for plants which succeed
best in rich soils, apply, if available, a dressing of thoroughly
decayed manure, vegetable refuse, or leaf-mould. The soil should,
in all casés, be stirred to a depth of twelve inches or so, but in
no case must uncongenial soil be brought up from below. The
autumn is the time for stirring the subsoil, if it is desired to
increase the depth, as, during the winter, it will be pulverized
thoroughly and be in capital condition for planting ; but now it will
become dry and hard, and the plants will not, in consequence, take
kindly to it.

The preparation of the bedders is by far the most important
matter now, and I will at once proceed to deal with it. The hardier
kinds of bedders, such as the zonal geraniums, verbenas, lobelias,
ealceolarias, and the various succulents should have been placed in
the frames quite a month ago, and be now sufficiently hardened to
be placed out of doors to make way for the more tender bedders,
comprising the coleus and alternantheras. If, in any case, those
belonging to the first-mentioned section are still in a rather warm
house, let them be removed at once to a pit, keep rather close for a
fortnight, and then expose freely during the day by drawing the

May.

136 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

lights entirely off. Supposing them to be at present in the frame,
prepare, in a convenient place, and on a hard bottom, beds of ashes
about four feet in width, the length to be regulated by the size of
the plot, and the number, by the space required by the plants.
Three inches of ashes will suffice to keep the worms out of the
pots. Along the centre of the ash-bed, drive into the ground
small uprights, standing about two feet above the level, and to these
nail strips of wood, to form a continuous line down the bed. These
are required for the purpose of laying mats, or other covering
across, in case of frost.

Plants in small pots standing out of doors at this season, require
watering twice a day, morning and evening, or the soil becomes
dry, the plants suffer, and the growth is stunted. Even if the soil
appears in a nice moist state in the morning, they should have their
usual watering, for long before the evening the moisture will be
dried up, and it is not good for them to be watered overhead in
midday, excepting in dull weather.

The more tender bedders should be removed to the frames as
fast as space can be found for them, and then gradually prepared
for full exposure to the weather. For the first week or so, keep the
frames rather close, and then commence to ventilate freely; and
for a week or so previous to planting, draw the lights off during the
day, and also leave them uncovered during the night if the weather
is mild. They may, if more convenient, be removed from the frames
and be protected with mats at nights, if needful.

Seedlings of all kinds, including half-hardy annuals, such as
stocks and asters, still in the seed-pans, may be made short work of
by pricking them out on a shallow bed of soil made upon a hard
bottom. The common practice is to prick out on beds of consider-
able depth, and, in consequence, the plants produce long and fleshy
roots ; and when transplanted to their summer quarters, they suffer
severely from the check received. The beds should not be more
than two inches deep, and the bottom so hard that the roots cannot
penetrate it. Ina bed of this kind, they will produce an abund-
ance of fibrous roots, which, in a comparatively short space of time,
will form a mat, as it were, on the hard bottom, and with but little
difficulty it will be possible to lift them with good balls of soil.
Geraniums, verbenas, and bedding plants generally, do exceedingly
well in beds prepared as here advised, and move without suffering
materially.

None of the bedders should be allowed to produce flowers until
after they are planted out, and the buds should be removed as fast
as they make their appearance. Leaf-bedders that require stopping
shoald have the points of the shoots nipped out about a fortnight
before planting, and by the time they are put out they will be
bristling with young growth, and, in a very short time, will com-
mence to grow freely, and quickly cover the bed. It is of special
importance to remove the flowers from lobelias, as, when planted
out in bloom, they usually commence to produce seed, and are
frequently a long time before they take hold of the soil and begin to
grow freely.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 137

GARDEN GAMES.

eA) does not fall within the province of the Froran Worip
jj +to provide rules for the various games that are played
in gardens, but some of the provisions needed for the
enjoyment of those games are in our department, and
should have some amount of attention. Considering
the brevity and precariousness of the summer in these islands, we are
bound to turn to the utmost account the few fine days that occur in
the course of a year. Garden games are of the utmost value for the
prcemotion of health and cheerfulness in connection with the average
domestic life of our people, and are equally adapted for those who
are engaged in studious occupations at home, and those who pass
many hours in the midst of the bustle of city business. Every taste
must be gratified of course, and it is not for us to dictate. But I
must remark here, that it is always matter for regret when a garden
is so planned and planted that there is no open space left for a
game at bowls or croqnet, or for a wild romp with the children, or
even for a picturesque assemblage on the occasion of a lawn party,
or a strawberry feast.

A short time since I was roaming over a garden, the owner of which
was proud to have utilized every inch of space, so that a once open
lawn was now dotted all over with pyramid pear trees, and he
asked me if I did not think a few more trees might be squeezed in
to advantage. I replied that they might indeed be squeezed in, and
there was room enough for them to thrive; but the place was, in
my opinion, overdone with trees already, and there was no play-
ground for the pretty nephews and nieces I saw walking about
solemnly, instead of enjoying a game as they ought to be able to do,
in such a spacious garden. My friend took the hint, and before
the winter passed lifted a lot of trees, and made a nice clear space,
and when the pleasant croquet weather comes once more, I hope to
see the young visitors ‘to advantage” there, and the sight will
gratify me more than any number of pyramid pear trees.

The very first essential for the promotion of garden games is a
good lawn, smooth as a mahogany table, with a close soft turf
always in the best of keeping. Two lawns are better than one, and
three are better than two; but as we must cut our coat according
to our cloth, so every separate case must be determined on its
merits. Perhaps I may speak of my own arrangements for garden
games without incurring displeasure. I will premise that I have no
children, and that I never have taken part in any garden games
whatever. But I find immense pleasure in an occasional assemblage
of young people, and I grow strawberries in excess of my own
requirements, in order to add to the joyousness of our gatherings
of juveniles. In the first place, there is a nice croquet ground,
measuring thirty-five yards by twenty-five yards, and this affords
ample room for two parties, when divided down the centre by means
of a strip of wire netting eighteen inches wide, on which little

May.

138 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

flags are fixed at intervals to prevent accidents, as the wire is
scarcely visible. At the head of this lawn is a raised bank, or ramp
running right across it, close under the window of the dining-room,
and access is obtained to the dining-room by means of a staircase
and gallery fixed outside the house. From this gallery we get a
good view of the games. Close by rise some tall trees, between two
of which hangs a good swing, and beneath the swing is a concrete
pavement, which can be improved by spreading on it eceoa-nut
matting; anda little further on, in the same direction, and facing
the swing is a rustic pavilion, entirely open on the north side,
affording room for a score of people to sit sheltered from sun and
rain, yet quite in the open air. At the other end of the lawn is a
small piece of water, obtained by damming a brook, and on this
floats a punt of very humble construction. On gala days the punt
is constantly occupied, and our young folks find great delight in
being taken by its means a few yards into the comparative darkness
of the overhanging trees, and most charming pictures we obtain by
its aid. These arrangements are all of the humblest description, but
they bring forth much joy, and tell us that the promotion of the
more active of garden recreations might advantageously obtain more
general attention. Ina very small space we have room for croquet,
tea-drinking, boating, swinging, conversation, and other amusements.
The outside gallery and staircase are of immense value for the
necessary traflic to and from the house, and serve as the rendezvous
for the lookers-on and idlers of the party.

As remarked above, the spacious lawn, with not a tree or inter-
ruption of any kind, is the very first necessity for the promotion of
garden games. My croquet lawn would accommodate one hundred
pyramid pear trees, and thus profitably occupied would make me
miserable. Its nice green carpet gives me a twofold pleasure—as
grass turf it is beautiful in all seasons, as a play-ground it is the
scene of joyous assemblages in the pleasant days of summer.

Now there is a mode of extending the idea that I commend to the
consideration of all whom it may concern. It is to fashion a lawn
so that it will be a play-ground in winter as well as in summer. The
young people delight in skating ; at all events, the boys do. Now,
we will leave those who know how to skate to take care of them-
selves; though we cannot forget that sad accidents occur at times,
when thin ice on deep water is loaded beyond its weight. Wemight
even instance the lamentable death of Mr. Walter on the lake at

Bearwood, as an argument for the kind of skating rink we have in ~

mind at this moment. However, it is sufficient that a great point
would be gained by instituting in the garden a skating school, for it
would promote out-door exercise without danger in the most enjoy-’

able of winter weather, and the owner would be well repaid for the

trifling cost incurred in the formation cf a rink, in the picturesque

1 gy <All i —o hid.

groups that would delight him when the young people assembled for —

their skating. We want a suitable supply of water and a suitable
extent of turf. The ground must havea slight—very slight fall to the
outlet, amounting to not more than one or two inches. The amount
of the fall must in part be determined by the size of the rink, but

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 139

practically it must be very nearly indeed a dead level. Let it be
made on a solid substratum of clay, and enclosed with a low ramp
of one to two feet of slope. The rest of the work is for the
engineers and plumbers to manage, and in any case it is extremely
simple. A service of water will be brought in by pipes at one end,
and at the other end will be fitted pipes to take the water away when
done with. All the summer long this is a croquet ground or bowling
green, a place for lawn billiards, and many more good games. Very
early in the winter it becomes a skating rink, when the weathercock
veers to some point of north you turn on the water and flood the
ground, and next morning there is good skating ice for your money.
You rejoice in your possession, and you score its face with your
elegant evolutions, and when dusk stops your sport, you flood the
ground again, and next morning you have a new surface, smooth as
glass, and so safe that it will be quite a delight to fall on it. Now
having found the thing perfect, send for the young people, and give
them carte blanche to come whenever they" see hoar frost on the
grass in the morning, for a few degrees of frost will make ice of your
two or three inches of water, and you can put a new face on it daily
as long as the weather favours the undertaking. It is a rare event
to have more than a week of good skating on the rivers and ponds,
but on this garden rink you will have skating, if you choose to profit
by your advantage, the greater part of the winter, and certainly at
those times of clear brisk frost when every one blessed with health
longs to be out of doors, in the enjoyment of merry activity.

You will have remarked above the advice that the ground must
have a clay substratum. Where clay is the natural subsoil, there is
simply nothing to be done but to lay down the turf upon it, with a
suitable supply of fine stuff to finish the work neatly. But if the
subsoil is such that there is a probability that water would not stay,
it would be necessary to lay down clay, and puddle it as in making
apond. It follows that the cost would, in many instances, be too
great to come into the category of reasonable expenditure ; hence
occupants of chalky and sandy soils may find discretion the better

part of valour, and most properly refrain from indulging in the
luxury of a skating rink. No one could establish such a thing more
cheaply than myself, for I am located on clay of any depth, and
we could flood the rink without any help from engineers or plumbers,
having peculiar “‘ water privileges” that need not be described. As
a matter of course, no general advice will suit every particular
circumstance and locality. It may, however, be proper to remark
that a pavement of cement would answer perfectly, but would be
less agreeable than turf in the summer.

The keeping of croquet lawns is a matter of the utmost import-
ance. It is quite a common occurrence to find them worn out before
the summer is half gone, and this invariably happens if there is
frequent play onan old lawn in the immediate vicinity of large trees.
Now the proper way to renew the turf of these lawns is very rarely
Tesorted to, and, in many cases, the proper way may be objection-
able, because it renders the lawn unsightly for a time. However, it
‘is just such a matter as this that especially concerns us, and the

May.

140 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

proper way is now to be described. Tarly in the autumn, as early
indeed as possession of the turf can be obtained without imposing
any check on garden games, the lawn should be covered with a
mixture of fine earth and guano, and at once sown with a mixture of
seeds of the finest lawn grasses. Any kind of earth will do if fine,
and guano should be in the proportion of four or five pounds to the
square rod. In the absence of guano, Amies’s patent manure will
answer admirably. If there is plenty of rotten hotbed manure to
spare, it may be used instead of the mixture recommended above,
but it will be more unsightly. Generally speaking, families leave
home in the autumn, and that is the time to top-dress the croquet
jawn. In many gardens, worn-out turf is dressed with grass seeds
and fine earth in spring, and the result is that improvement is
searcely discernible. The time for such work is the autumn, and it
should always be accompanied with manurial matters of some kind
or other, for the exhaustion of the soil is quite as much the cause of
the perishing of the grass as the traffic of little feet upon it.

But we want water on those lawns that are hard-worked all the
summer. On Saturday night a heavy flood should be turned on,
and by Monday the ground would be dry again for the play. A
lawn made with ramps and water-pipe, as advised for a skating rink,
might be flooded regularly all the summer, and by this kept as
green as emerald, and as soft to the foot as a Persian carpet.

NEW BEDDING LOBELIAS.
BY J. E. SAUNDERS, ESQ.

OBELIAS of the Speciosa and Pumila types are of such
% immense value in the embellishment of the flower
garden, that really meritorious novelties are well de-
serving all the attention it is possible to give them.

~ Within the past two or three years some really fine
varieties have been introduced; and as I have grown them all, with
but two exceptions, I will, with the permission of the Editor, point
out the newer sorts, which are well deserving of the most extended
cultivation. I do so now because the plants may be obtained at a
cheap rate, and a few of each planted in good soil will, provided
they have the flowers removed early in August, supply sufficient
cuttings for raising a stock for next year.

Abundant opportunities will also be enjoyed for becoming
acquainted with the style of growth and the colour of the flowers of
each, and it will be possible to employ them with better effect than
would be the case were they to be purchased just before they are
required for the flower garden. The saving in the cost of the plants
will of course be immense.

A most valuable addition to the Speciosa section has been made
in Blue Stone, which has a neater habit, and flowers of a much
deeper colour than Speciosa. The flowers are produced in such pro-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 141

fusion as to form dense masses throughout the season, and are of a
fine deep Oxford blue, and produce an exceedingly rich effect, quite
superseding all the others of a similar character. Blue King is like
the preceding, remarkable for its neatness and floriferous character,
and the flowers are of a pleasing Cambridge blue, thus forming an
excellent companion to it. These are unquestionably the two best
blue Lobelias of their class inexistence. Mazarine Gem differs from
the foregoing, in being more vigorous in growth, and in its adapta-
bility for large beds. The flowers are large and of rich marine blue,
with white eye ; and in masses or broad belts, the effect is exceedingly
good. Nivea is a white variety, so thoroughly good that it quite
supersedes Purity, White Perfection, and all the other white
Lobelias.

In the Pumila section we have two most valuable acquisitions
in Pumila magnifica, and Duchess of Edinburgh. The first is one
of the finest lobelias ever raised; for as described in the ‘“ Garden
Oracle” for the current year, it combines “ the vigour, size of bloom,
and the richness of colouring of the finer forms of Speciosa with the
compact habit of Pumila.” The plants, when they have sufficient
room for their development, attain a height and diameter of six
inches, and are quite solid with bloom of the richest indigo blue.
The flowers, unlike those of the majority of lobelias, have no white
eye. The second is an excellent white variety, which will be found
most valuable for planting in beds where a dwarf white flowering
plant will be appropriate. Both are valuable additions, and cannot
be too strongly recommended ; as they are now being sent out for
the first time, they will cost half-a-crown or so per plant, and the
others may be had for sixpence or so.

NOTES ON THE NEW ROSES OF 1875.
BY GEORGE GORDON.

ee9)NOWING that avery numerous body of the readers of
¢| the Froran Wortp take a deep interest in Roses, I
have prepared a few notes on the new varieties now
being distributed for the first time, or which will shortly
be offered for sale. The number of new roses is this
season unusually large, there being about fifty French varieties, of
which at present but little is known in this country, and ten English
varieties, all of which have been exhibited at the leading exhibitions
in the metropolis and elsewhere. That avery large proportion of
the continental roses should be either worthless or second-rate, is
simply a matter of course, for the raisers do not set up a very high
standard in selecting seedlings, and the nurserymen on this side of
the Channel mostly purchase all that are offered in the French lists,
propagate freely, and offer them to their customers with the raiser’s
descriptions. The amateur rosarian, anxious to keep well abreast
May.

142 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of the times, selects a dozen or so, and it is quite a chance whether
any of them are worth growing. In the fifty offered this season, it
is not likely that more than half-a-dozen will be worth growing, and
of these but few will supersede those we already have of a similar
colour. Therefore those amateurs who have no ambition to obtain
honours at the rose shows should be in no hurry to buy new kinds.
L would indeed advise them to wait until they haye had a thorough
trial in English gardens, and have been reported on by competent
critics. As regards the English raised roses, no such caution in
purchasing is needed, for all the varieties now offered have been
exhibited several times, and, with but one or two exceptions, have
had certificates of the first class conferred upon them by the censors
of the exhibitions at which they were staged, and, consequently,
there can be no question as to their respective merits.

Mr. Charles Turner, of the Royal Nurseries, Slough, has of late
years paid considerable attention to the raising of seedling roses, and
as in the case of raising other florists’ flowers he has been remarkably
successful, and the four varieties which he will distribute next month
are of the highest excellence. They are as follows :—

John Stuart Mill, H.P.—A magnificent variety ; the flowers are
globular, very large, and exceedingly full ; colour, bright red crimson.
Tt is most valuable for exhibition, and as it has a robust constitution,
and blooms freely unto quite the end of the season, it is admirably
adapted for garden decoration.

Miss Hassard, H.P.—A beautiful light rose, the flowers large,
globular, full, and of a clear pinkish flesh ; it is in the way of La
France, but it surpasses that beautiful rose in vigour of growth, and
in blooming freely during the autumn ; it is also remarkable for its
sweetness.

Rev. J. B. M. Camm, H. P.—An exceedingly fine rose, the flowers
of large size, full, and perfectly globular ; the colour deep rose-pink ;
a grand show flower, and excellent for the garden.

Royal Standard, H.P., a very distinct variety ; the flowers rather
above medium size, very full, and of the most perfect form ; it is,
perhaps, rather too full and regularly formed for the garden ; but for
competitive purposes it is exceptionally good. The colour soft,
satiny rose ; very effective, and in every way first-class.

Mr. W. Paul, of Waltham Cross, who is one of the foremost of
English raisers of roses, offers two new varieties this season, and
these are—

Queen of Waltham, H.P.—A beautiful variety ; the flowers large,
full, and of superb form; colour, bright cherry red, the outer petals
changing to a deeper red; very bright and effective, and valuable for
the exhibition table or the garden.

Star of Waltham, H.P.—A splendid rose of the highest quality ;
the flowers large, full, and of the most beautiful form ; colour bright
carmine crimson. One of the finest roses of the year, whether for
garden decoration or exhibition ; it is also well adapted for pot culture,
for the plants in pots exhibited at the first spring show of the Royal
ey Society were in fine condition, both as regards foliage and

owers.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 143

Mr. Cranston, of Hereford, a well-known grower, exhibited
several remarkably fine and new varieties last season, which are
especially deserving of attention. These are—

Climbing Jules Margottin—A. free-growing variety of our old
friend Jules Margottin, well adapted for training over trellises and
up pillars. The flowers are precisely the same in colour and form
as the variety from which it has originated.

Crimson Bedder, H.P.—A brightly-coloured and continuously-
flowering variety, well adapted for bedding purposes. The flowers
are of a brilliant crimson colour, and produced freely throughout
the summer and the early part of the autumn. The growth is
short-jointed, and the foliage ample and glossy.

Sir Garnet Wolseley, H.P.—A grand exhibition rose; the flowers
of large size, globular, and of superb form ; colour brilliant carmine
crimson; one of the finest of the season.

In selecting the Continental novelties, we are bound to depend
very much upon the names of the raisers, for, whilst several send
us the veriest rubbish, some, let it be said to their honour, are very
careful in distributing none but really good varieties, and therefore
some reliance may be placed upon their description. After a care-
ful serutiny of the lists, and taking into consideration the merits of
the varieties the several raisers have sent us, I have selected
the under-mentioned twelve as most likely to give satisfaction,
VALe, 2=— .

Aline Sisley.—Tea-scented, flowers of medium size, varying from
deep rose-purple to dark red, a quite new colour in the tea-scented
section.

Antoine Mouton, H.P.—A desirable variety ; the flowers very
large, resembling in size and build Paul Neron, but fuller; colour
bright rose, reverse of petals, delicate pink, a fine garden rose.

Bernard Verlot, H.P.—A showy rose, in the way of Lord Raglan,
flowers globular, larger, and said to be full.

Colonel de Sansal, H.P.—A promising variety ; flowers of good
size, form, and substance; colour, bright carmine, red shading to
shaded velvety crimson.

Comtesse de Serenye, H.P.—A beautiful rose ; flowers very large,
full, and of good form; colour, delicate rose pink, as exhibited at
the first spring show of the Royal Botanic Society, it appeared to be
fall of promise.

Hippolyte Jamain, H.P.—A fine rose, the flowers extra large,
very full, and of a rich rosy carmine colour. This was exhibited at
South Kensington in March last, when it had a first-class cer-
tificate conferred upon it; the foliage is good, and it is said to be
very free in growth.

La Rosier, H.P.—Distinct in colour; the flowers are said to be
extra large, and of fine form; colour amaranth, shaded blackish
crimson ; it is described as very vigorous and free.

Madame Lefebvre de St. Ouen, H.P.—F lowers bright cerise red ;
large, full, and freely produced; very sweet.

Madile. Nona d’Adorjan, H.P.—Flowers above medium size,
and full; colour, pale rose; reverse of petals, silvery.

May.

144 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Marie Cordier, H.P.—Flowers large, of good shape, and full,
deep carmine, shaded fiery red ; very vigorous. ;

Marie Guillot—Tea-scented.—A beautiful variety, the flowers
large, full, and very double, white, faintly tinted yellow. I had
an opportunity of seeing this the other day, and was struck with it
as being a most useful variety, and valuable for its distinctness.

Shirley Hibberd.—Tea-scented.—A very distinct variety; the
flowers of medium size, beautifully tipped, and of a bright nankeen
colour. This was awarded a first class certificate at the Lyons
Congress, and is described as a most valuable addition to its class.

The new roses are sent out at this season of the year nicely esta-
blished in small pots. If it is intended to plant them out, a rather
sheltered situation should be selected for the bed. Where the time
can be spared for giving them the requisite attention, it is better to
keep them in pots during the summer, and to plant in the autumn.
In any case they should be kept in a cold frame, with abundant
ventilation for a fortnight after they are received. Those planted
out should have a little nice friable and rather rich soil placed
about the roots to enable them to make a good start, and be well
supplied with water during the summer. Those to be kept in pots
will require shifting into five or six-inch pots, according to their
strength, and a compost consisting of three parts turfy loam, and
one part of well-decayed hotbed manure used. They may be kept
rather close for ten days or so after they are potted, and afterwards
be placed in an open position out of doors. Provided they have
proper attention, they will make a good growth during the summer,
and bloom abundantly next year.

WHAT TO DO WITH SPRING BEDDERS.
BY WILLIAM GARDINER.

sg N this communication it is not my intention to touch
#/ upon the great question of spring bedding, for the
subject has already received ample attention in past
issues of the Frorat Wortp, but simply to offer a few
hints on the management of the plants during the
summer season. I am induced to do this because of the losses some
amateurs suffer through putting the plants, when removed from the
flower-beds, in positions altogether unsuitable to them; some plants
which thrive in a moist and shady situation are planted in hot, sunny
positions, and others which enjoy the sunshine are planted in the
shade. There are others again which produce the best effect wher
raised from seed annually, and require to be placed in a situation
favourable to the quick maturation of the seed.

The spring bedders may for the present purpose be divided into
classes : the first to comprise those which require shade during the
summer, and the other those which enjoy a certain amount of sun-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, 145

shine. In the first we have the Primroses, Polyanthuses, Violas,
Daisies, Pansies, and several other things; and in the second, Arabis,
Aubrietias, Wallflowers, Sedums, Cerastium, and other subjects which
are known to bear the fullest exposure possible without injury.

For those requiring shade, a border on the north side of a hedge
or wall is necessary, and if there is no such border available, a shad
border may be readily extemporized. A hedge is much better than
a wall, for there is at all times a free current of air passing through
it, and this, it is hardly necessary to say, is most beneficial to the
plants ; especially is it good for Violas and Pansies, which when on
the north side of a wall make a soft, long-jointed growth. The
formation of a shady border without the aid of either hedge or wall
is a very simple matter; select a convenient situation in one of the
quarters in the kitchen garden, and mark out a bed about eight feet
wide, running east and west, and at the proper moment sow on the
south side Scarlet Runners and put tall stakes to them. In due
time they will form an admirable shade, and afford efficient protection
to the plants. A strip of ground running north and south may be
converted into a suitable situation for these things by having rows
of Runners sown across them, at a distance of eight feet apart. To

road drift, or the sweepings of the potting shed, and after this hag
been applied prick the surface over, and make it rather fine.

In removing the plants from the beds, lift them carefully with a
fork, to preserve the roots from injury, but it is not necessary to

inches apart. In filling in the trenches tread the soil firmly with the
foot, and as fast as a few rows are planted, give a good soaking of
water to settle it about them.

If the planting is followed by a period of dry weather, water
them liberally once or twice a-week, and take advantage of the
evening for the work. Beyond a few applications of water, keeping
them free from weeds, will constitute the chief attention they require
until the autumn. :

The subjects requiring a sunny situation must be planted in
rows in a similar manner to the others, but the position must be
open. The Aubrietias are of a straggling habit, and esr to be

May.

146 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

eut rather hard back to keep them compact. The pieces taken from
the plants may be laid in very thickly in trenches, and if supplied
with water the greater portion of the cuttings will take root, and
next spring bloom freely. The Arabis should be trimmed in much
the same manner, and the cuttings laid in trenches with the leaves
just above the surface, as they strike freely and soon form good tufts.
On the other hand, if they are not cut back they soon become so
ungainly as to be most difficult to plant neatly. The Cerastium
should have a few of the longest shoots removed, and in a month or
so after it has been planted, cut it nearly level with the ground, and
in a short time it will break freely and form dense tufts by the
autuon. Wallfiowers must be pruned moderately, and planted about
eight inches apart in lines, quite fifteen inches from each other, and
by the autumn they may be expected to form nice bushes. The soil
should be rather poor, as it promotes the production of firm, short-
jointed wood, which is better able to withstand the adverse influences
of a severe winter, than soft shoots full of sap. Itis not a good
practice to keep for bedding purposes Wallflowers that are of too
great age, but when from two to three years old they produce a finer
and more regular display of flowers, than those raised from seed sown
the previous summer.

Silenes, Forget-me-nots, and Wallflowers from which it is desired
to save seed, should be lifted with as little disturbance as possible,
and be planted in an open situation. When the seed is ripe and
gathered pull them up, and remove to the rubbish heap.

ORCHIDS FOR EVERYBODY.

BY W. GEDNEY,
Gardener to J. Day, Esq., Tottenham.

=eq)N previous communications I have directed the attention

| of the readers of the Fiona, Wortp to a few special
classes of orchidaceous plants, and I now intend to
make a selection of a few species that should be grown
= in all gardens in which the conveniences exist for their
cultivation. In this selection I shall include none but those which
are free-flowering, attractive, not difficult of cultivation, and, more-
over, are comparatively cheap. The selection may be improved
somewhat by including a few of the more expensive kinds; but as
those for whom this is written will not be disposed to expend ten
or twenty guineas in the purchase of a single plant, I shall not
say anything about them; indeed, I should not advise anyone to
purchase the expensive kinds until they are tolerably well acquainted
with the principles of orchid culture, some of the cheapest are,
however, the most beautiful, and I have no hesitation in saying that
in the immense collection now under my charge, comprising hundreds

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN QUIDE. 147

of kinds and thousands of plants, there is hardly one that can surpass
in attractiveness the beautiful Dendrobium nobile, which may now be
purchased for a few shillings.

I will now give the names of a few of those which every amateur
with a little stove should grow, and if he can afford room for them
I should advise him to grow two or three plants of each. These
are—

Calanthe Veitchi—A_ strong-growing hybrid, producing bright
rose-pink flowers on tall spikes ; blooms in winter, and is exceedingly
beautiful.

C. vestita—A distinct free-growing species, producing its
flowers in winter on rather long spikes; there are two varieties,
both have white flowers, and those of C. v. lwteo-oculata have a
yellow blotch in the centre, and those of C. v. rubro-oculata a
crimson blotch. The calanthes should be grown in a mixture of
turfy loam, leaf-mould, well decayed manure, and silver sand, and be
potted in precisely the same manner as ordinary stove plants.

Cattleya mossie.—-A free summer flowering species. The flowers
large and of a beautiful rose colour; the labellum painted with
crimson.

Cattleya Triane.—This resembles the preceding in general
character, and produces its flowers in winter. The latter are of a
delicate blush colour, the labellum painted with yellow, orange, and
purple. The Cattleyas may be grown in fibrous peat broken into
large lumps, and potted so that the base of the plant is a few inches
above the rim of the pot; the latter should be half filled with
crocks.

Cypripedium barbatum purpureum.—A free-growing and profuse
blooming Lady’s Slipper, usually at its best early in the summer.

C. insigne—An old but very attractive species, flowering in
winter. The Cypripediums may be grown in either peat or sphagnum
moss, and be potted in the manner advised for the Cattleyas.

Dendrobium chrysanthum.—A. beautiful species, with long, pen-
dulous pseudo-bulbs, and well adapted for baskets. The flowers,
which are produced at various seasons of the year, are of a bright,
golden yellow, with rich red blotch on the labellum.

D. densiflorum.—A. robust species, attaining a height of about
twelve inches, and producing from April to June magnificent
racemes of deep yellow flowers, very distinct and good.

D. nobile.—One of the finest of the whole genus, and as remark-
able for easy culture as it is for its great beauty. It may be had in
bloom from the early part of March until May, by retarding a few
of the plants, and this may be readily doue by placing them in a
lower temperature, and keeping them rather dry at the roots; but
where there are only two or three plants, the best course is to allow
them to bloom naturally. The plants may be grown ina mixture of
peat and sphagnum moss, orin either of these separately. They require
well-drained pots, and to be raised just above the level of the rim.

Epidendrum vitellinum.—A. dwarf and rather small grower, pro-
ducing neat spikes of brilliant orange scarlet flowers; some of the
plants bloom in summer and others in the winter. One of the very

May

148 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

best of the genus. It should be potted in much the same way as
the Cattleyas.

Lelia purpurata.—A strong growing species, similar in character
to the Cattleyas, and attains a height of about eighteen inches or
two feet ; the flowers are also similar in shape to those of the Cattleya,
and are of a pure white or pale rose, with purple crimson labellum.
It usually blooms in summer, and requires precisely the same
management as the members of the genus to which it bears a close
resemblance.

Lycaste Skinneri.—A beautiful species of neat growth ; the flowers
are very large and waxy in texture, and mostly delicate blush; the
labellum rose, marked with crimson. It flowers freely during the
winter, and is one of the most attractive orchids grown. It grows
freely in a mixture of peat and moss, and requires liberal supplies
of water when growing freely, and moderately moist at other times.

Odontoglossum Alexandre.—A lovely orchid, producing rather
long spikes of delicate rose-coloured flowers of rather large size.
The sepals and petals are mostly white ; the labellum more or less
spotted with reddish-brown ; some of the varieties have rose-tinted
flowers. It blooms early in the spring.

O. citrosmum roseum.—A lovely species, with rose-tinted flowers,
which are produced in long drooping spikes.

O. gloriosum.—A_ beautiful species, the flowers yellowish, spotted
with purple; large, highly fragrant, and produced in long branched
spikes.

3 O. grande.—A compact-growing orchid, with large flowers, barred
with brown on a yellow ground. It blooms in autumn, and is very
beautiful.

O. Insleayi.— This is similar in growth to the preceding, and
bears large flowers, marked with brown on a yellow and orange
ground.

O. Pescatorei.—A fine species, producing in April and May fine
spikes of delicately-tinted white flowers, the labellum beautifully
marked with rose and yellow.

O. triumphans—A_ strong-growing species, with large yellow
flowers, beautifully spotted with cinnamon-brown, very fine and
distinct. All the Odontoglots do well in pots in a mixture of peat
and sphagnum moss, and in a temperature ranging from 45° to 55°.
They require liberal supplies of water when growing freely, and to
be kept moderately moist at other times.

Oncidium flecuosum.—A showy species of free growth. The
flowers are of a bright yellow colour, and very attractive.

O. leucochilum.—A robust-growing species, with branched spikes
several feet in length. The flowers are greenish-yellow, and rather
small; but as they are produced in such wonderful profusion, they
are very effective.

O. sphacelatum.—A_ free-flowering species, with yellow flowers
barred with dark brown.

The Oncidiums here mentioned should be potted in much the
same manner as the Dendrobiums. They are all of free growth, and
require rather liberal supplies of water during the season of growth,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 149

and to be kept moderately dry when at rest during the winter
season.

Sophronites grandiflora.—A dwarf-growing orchid, with flowers
of the most brilliant crimson-searlet. It should be grown on a
block of wood suspended from the roof.

Trichopilia suavis.—A beautiful species; the flowers are blush,
richly spotted with deep rose. They are produced in clusters at
the base of the pseudo-bulb, and the plants, to show them off to
eee. should be potted about three inches above the level of
the pot.

All the sorts here mentioned may be grown in an ordinary stove,
without any special difficulty ; and as they bloom at various seasons
of the year, and the flowers remain so long in perfection, there will
not be many days in the year in which one or other of them will not
be in bloom.

NEW INVENTIONS.

sg/ELF-ACTING SEED DRILL.—This implement is remarkable for the
4| simplicity of its construction, and will be found of considerable service
to adepts in seed sowing, as well as to those amateurs who have but
little practice in work of this kind. By its use the seed is deposited in
the drill with the greatest degree of regularity, and a saving ranging from
twenty-five to fifty per cent. is effected. The seed is deposited in the hopper, and
by pushing the drill along by the side of a line laid down as a guide, the travelling

wheel gives motion to a slide at the bottom of the hopper, and the seed at once falls
through a tube behind the coulter and drops into the soil. A lady or boy may
work it with ease, and drill the seeds of the kitchen garden crops with the same
facility as an experienced hand. It can be altered, by simply turning a screw, to
sow all kinds of seeds. It is manufactured by Mr. Josiah Le Butt, Bury St.
Edmunds, Suffolk.

Tue Spencer Povtrry anp Pueasant Feeprr.—tIn this invention the
corn, whilst always visible to the poultry, is most effectually protected frem the
wet and vermin. The corn is placed in troughs, and these are provided with
framed glass covers, which immediately the poultry step on to a platform running
along the side of the trough, the cover lifts up and the birds are able to reach the

May.

150 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

corn. The covers remain up so long as a bird stands on the platform, but imme-
diately the last bird steps off the platform the cover shuts down. ‘The “ Feeders”
have a trough on both sides, at each of which half a dozen birds may feed at one
time, und hold about a bushel and a half each, and_the troughs are seli-filling.
It is manufactured by Mr. Josiah Le Butt.

THE RecistERED PERFrEct WateRtnG-Can has been designed by Mr. Le Butt
to facilitate the work of watering seed beds and plants growing in open borders.
As the watering can be done expeditiously and without lifting the can to an extra

THE PERFECT
WATERING CAN

= 3

<: <KAY

KK ‘
mee

height, a given space can be watered with much less fatigue than with the ordinary
watering-pot, Moreover, owing to the shape of the rose, the small holes do not
readily become stopped if the water should not be perfectly clean.

THE AnErcorn CHArr is a most useful invention for conservatories and
libraries, It consists of a handsome chair possessing considerable strength, which,
by the most simple movement possible, can be converted into a pair of steps. It

will be found of considerable value wherever a pair of steps are occasionally
required, as, for example, in cutting flowers from tall plants, and for taking down
books from shelves otherwise beyond the reach. This also is one of Mr. Le Butt’s
inventions.

Cox’s ReeisteERING THERMOMETERS, WiTH Parent Scates.—These ther-
mometers differ from those in general use in having the scales enclosed in a flat
glass tube, which is hermetically sealed, and most effectually protects the {index
from atmospheric influences. The scales are made of ivory, and the divisions most
distinctly engraved thereon, so that they are as remarkable for clearness as they
are for durability. Asis well known to our readers, the scales of thermometers of
the usual construction become illegible after exposure to the weather, or to the heat
and moisture of a plant-stove or forcing-house for a comparatively brief period,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 151

and the instrument is rendered worthless. But in the case of those with an ivory
seale enclosed in a glass tube, they remain perfectly legible for an indefinite period,
even if exposed to the most unfavourable influences. As the cost is only slightly
in excess of the common kinds, we feel assured they will at once commend them-
selves to the notice of our readers. They are manutactured by Mr. F. J. Cox, 26,
Ludgate Hill, London.

New Bouppine Knire.—Messrs. Dick Radclyffe and Co., 129, High Holborn,
have recently’ introduced a budding knife, which will doubtless be found useful to
amateurs who have to bud large numbers of roses. The back part of the blade,

towards the top, is prepared for lifting up the bark, instead of having to use the
handle, asin the ordinary knife, and by this arrangement the work can be effected in
the most expeditious manner possible. The knife is shorter, and can be carried in
the pocket more conveniently than the budding knives with long handles,

Boyte’s Sexr-actine Orcuip AND Puan Case.—This case has been designed
for the cultivation of the smaller growing orchids, stove plants, and ferns in indoor
apartments, and so far appears likely to do its work well. Its chief peculiarity
consists in its being provided with a regulator, which most effectually keeps the
heat steady at the desired point, consequently, however much the pressure of gas or
of hot water may alter, the temperature of the case will, the manufacturers state,
undergo no material change. This improvement, we imagine, will be found of
considerable service to those who have not much time to attend to plant cases, as it
prevents the possibility of the plants being injured by a temperature in excess of
their requirements. The manufacturers are Messrs. Dick Radclyffe and Co.

Gatvanizep Wrovcut Iron Watt Firrrnes ror Wririne WALLs, as manu-
factured by Messrs. Barnard, Bishops, and Barnards, of the Norfolk Iron Works,
Norwich, are of the highest value for wiring garden walls, and also for the walls
of dwelling houses, against which it is intended to train fruit trees, or flowering
plants of a scandent habit. The fittings are comparatively inexpensive, and a
large extent of wall surface can be fitted with wires for a trifling outlay. The
walls of many of the largest gardens in the country are now wired, because of the
saving of time effected in training the trees, the neater appearance, and the avoid-
ance of the injury done to the walls by the use of nails and shreds. They are o
especial value for the walls of dwelling houses, for when the latter are once fitted
up, the climbers planted against them will take hold of the wires, and require very
little attention indeed to keep them in order. Any handy man can fit up the walls,
and as prices and all particulars can be readily obtained on application to the firm,
there will be no difficulty in forming an estimate for coveri ng a given space.

New Patent Greennovuses.— We have recently received from Messrs. Boulton
and Paul, horticultural builders, Norwich, designs of several new greenhouses that
have been arranged more especially to meet the requirements of amateur cultivators,
Not the least interesting of the designs are those of the tenant’s fixtures, which are
built on wood foundations, and may at the expiration of the tenancy be removed
by the tenant. These are the best forms of tenant’s fixtures that have yet come
under our notice, and as we, from personal observation in various parts of the
country, know the work of this firm to be thoroughly substantial, we haye no
hesitation in recommending these designs to the notice of our readers. The prices
of staging, as well as of the houses, are given, and as they are delivered carriage
free, the precise cost can be at once determined. The tenant’s fixtures require no
brickwork, The Patent Plant Preservers manufactured by this firm have been con-
siderably ‘improved of late, and are now made large enough to form pits with
walks and staging inside. The large sizes are of special value for wintering
bedding plants, the cultivation of cucumbers and melons, and the preparation of
soft-wooded and other plants for the conservatory. G. G.

May.

152 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR MAY.

Sweetly breathing Vernal Air,

That with kind warmth dost repair
Winter’s ruins, from whose breast
All the gums and spice of th’ east
Borrow their perfumes; whose eye
Guilds the morn, and clears the sky ;
Whose dishevell’d tresses shed
Pearls upon the violet bed ;

On whose brow, with calm smiles drest,
The haleyon sits, and builds her nest;
Beauty, youth, and endless spring,
Dwell upon thy rosy wing!

Thou, if stormy Boreas throws

Down whole forests when he blows,

With a pregnant flowery birth

Canst refresh the teeming earth.

If he nip the early bud,

If be blast what’s fair or good,

If he scatter our choice flowers,

If he shake our ball or bowers,

If his rude breath threaten us,

Thou canst stroke great (olus,

And from him the graze obtain

To bind him in an iron chain.
Tomas CarEw.

aiCHIMENES, GuioxrniAs, AND GesNERAS will rejoice in a moist at
41 mosphere with a generous temperature. They must have some shade-
u Train out betimes, and give air to keep the growth robust.
= Asters, Srocks, AnD Bausams for decorations to be shifted
frequently as required; give them plenty of air and water, or they will
be eaten up with fly. The hot weather will throw balsams into bloom if they are
at all pot-bound or dry at the root ; and those not yet sufficiently grown, and which
are showing bloom, should haye the buds nipped out as fast as they show, and be
shifted in rich compost to the next size, to encourage growth.

Azaxxras which bloom naturally and are now making their new growth, to have
abundance of water, and to be kept in a close pit, shaded ; and water to be frequently
sprinkled about, to cause a moist atmosphere.

Batsams anD Cocxscomss for exhibition to have a good shift in rich light soil,
and a little extra heat to promote new roots. They must have abundance of water
to prevent green-fly, which are sure to attack them if they are starved.

BepDING-oUT.—Dull weather is the best for this work, and if it can be done
just before rain, much labour of watering will be saved. But when the ground is
absolutely wet, bedding cannot be done properly, and had best be deferred a few
days. When the plants are counted off and sorted for their places, let them go
moderately dry ; they will then turn out better than if the balls are wet. Plants
that have not quite filled their pots with roots, turn out in complete balls, remove
the crocks, and close in without breaking the balls ; but those that are absolutely
pot-bound must have the ball slightly loosened, to enable the roots to push out easily
into the free soil.

Broccont AND CAULIFLOWER to be sown for succession, choosing both early and

late sorts, the first for use in the coming autumn, and the others for supply in the
spring.
‘ CamELiis that have finished growing for the season to have less water and
more air. They must not go absolutely dry, because that would punish them
severely. It is too soon to put them out yet, so give them airy positions in the
house.

CurysantHEemumMs lately struck to be potted off, and to be returned to the pot
for a week or ten days, and after that to be plunged in beds of coal-ashes or cocoa-
nut waste,

CrneraRias that are thoroughly good to have a little sandy compost placed
around the stool, into which the suckers will throw roots, so that when taken off

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 155

they may be put into thumbs singly at once, which is a gain of time and strength
to the plant.

Epacrises that have flowered must now be repotted, the soil to be sandy fibry
peat. The strong-growing kinds must have a large shift. Use plenty of drainage
carefully packed, and place the plants in a turf-pit for the summer, and shade during
midday.

F vir RIPENING under glass must have a comparatively dry air and plenty of
ventilation, or they will lack colour and flavour.

Harpy Hersaczous Piants that have bloomed should now be propagated.
Take cuttings of Double Wallflowers, Alyssum, Arabis, and Iberis sempervirens, the
latter is perhaps the best of all the white-flowering plants for early bloom out of doors.

Metovys in fruit to have less water as soon as the fruit begins to ripen. Let them
have the full sun, no matter how it may roast them; shut up early with a good
heat, and sprinkle the leaves at the same time.

OrcuarD House Trees are now swelling their fruit, and need the help of liquid
manure. Use it rather weak at first, for fear of causing stone fruit to fall. After
two or three doses, alternating with plain waterings, increase its strength. Stone
fruits not yet beginning to swell should be kept without it for the present.

Oxcurps.—Most of the Indian species will now require an abundance of water
and a moist atmosphere. It is their heyday, and if they do not thrive now they
never will. Stanhopeas, Dendrobiums, rides, Saccolabiums, and Vandas are now
especially thirsty, and their wants must be supplied by dipping or watering.

Pansies.—This is a good time to strike cuttings for a good autumn bloom, and
to secure pot plants of choice kinds to keep over winter for spring cuttings. The
lake and very young tops of the leaders root quickest, and make the best
plants.

Pracues ripening to have a liberal supply of air during the day and a little
during the night, Keep the atmosphere pretty dry, but the border must be moist
while the trees are still growing. As soon as the trees show that they have made
sufficient growth, assist them to ripen the wood by letting the border get rather dry,
and the more the sun roasts the wood the better.

PELARGONIUMS now require much attention. See that stakes and ties are in
order to keep the plants in the required form as they come into bloom. Judicious
stopping, plenty of light and air, and a sound compost, are points of great import-
ance towards yrowing plants that will not need scaffolding. Give shade as the
plants show flower, and keep the whole stock as cool and airy as possible, avoiding
damp and cold draughts.

Perunias left over from the bedding, and double varieties struck in spring, will
now want shifting, to make specimen plants for autumn bloom in the conservatory.
The same with all other soft-wooded summer-flowering plants. A little timely care
will now put value into every scrap that has a leaf and a root.

PuioxeEs.—Strong stools in the border will need thinning, to reduce the number
of shoots to a few manageable leaders, which are to be staked neatly and separately.

RockeEries may be brightened up now by turning out in suitable places such
plants as Saxifrages, Phlox subulata, Dianthus fragrans, Antirrhinums, Columbines,
Festuca glauca, Elymus glauca, Crimson Thrift, Campanula garganica, and rotun-
difolia, Potentillas, ete., etc.

Srove.—Tiis is the best time to propagate a supply of Begonias, Euphorbias,
Justicias, Poinsettias, and other quick-growing soft-wooded plants for display during
winter. Specimen plants to be assisted with liquid manure, and the shoots to be
stopped of all shrubby and branching kinds, Justicias especially should be freely
grown now, to get the wood well ripened for a good bloom at the turn of the year.
Sow for succession beans, marrow peas, lettuce, cabbage, cauliflowers, Walcheren
broccoli, Stone turnip, and turnip radishes,

Tur every kind of crop where there is anything like crowding, Spinach,
beet, turnip, parsley, etc., etc., will be the worse for remaining thick.

VeceTaBLe Marrows anp Ringe Cucumsers to be planted out under hand-
glasses on moderately warm beds,

Vives to be again thinned in cool houses, and the operation accomplished without
handling the berries. Crops ripening to be kept rather dry, and with a temperature
not less than 90° with sun heat, and 65° by night.

Watt-tTrees to be nailed in, and the shoots thinned as they grow, that there

May

154 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

may be no crowding of unnecessary wood. Shoots that run away with undue
vigour to be cut clean out to the base, unless in positions where much needed, in
which case shorten them back.

Winter Greens to be planted out in showery weather at every opportunity.
If only one row can be got out at a time, it isa benefit to the seed-bed in giving
the seedlings more room, and a benefit to the plants in preventing their getting
drawn.

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

Sy OYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.—At the meetings of the Floral
FS Ay; and Fruit Committees, held during the past month, several meritorious
novelties have been exhibited. Foremost amongst these are Croton
Disraeli, a distinct form, with three lobed leaves marked with yellow on
a green ground ; Drosera spathulata, an interesting sundew ; Hyacinth
Etna, a beautiful variety, with semi-double flowers of a bright rose-crimson colour ;
and Croton appendiculatum, one of the most remarkable of the forms yet intro-
duced. The leaves are narrow, and four or five inches from the base of the leaf. The
midrib is continued in a thread like form for several inches, and at the end of this
is a leafy appendage ; and as the latter has the appearance of being suspended by a
green thread, the effect is very remarkable. These were all exhibited by Messrs.
J. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea. Mr. B.S. Williams, of the Victoria and Paradise
Nurseries, Upper Holloway, presented to public notice Geonoma gracilis and Mar-
tinezia erosa, two remarkably fine palms. The first-mentioned has rather small,
gracefully pinnate leaves, and is perhaps the most elegant palm in cultivation. It
is certainly one of the very best for the dinner table. Mr. W. Bull, of the King’s
Road, Chelsea, exhibited Crinum brachynema, a bold-habited plant, with pure white
fragrant flowers, requiring a stove temperature, and Dracena candida and D.
insignis, two welcome additions to this somewhat large family of fine foliage
plants, because of their adaptability for dinner tables and indoor decorations
generally.

THE OpENtNG OF ALEXANDRA Patace AND Parx will be the great event of
May Day, 1875. Our readers are familiar with its history, and will be abundantly
informed of the proceedings on the opening day, which, we trust, will be auspicious
in every sense, both for the sake of the enterprise and the satisfaction of the public
mind, for the undertaking engages the sympathies and hopes of all classes. Itis
needful here to record that horticulture; and the rest of the rural arts, will be libe-
rally vindicated and represented, while the recreations that are associated therewith
are to be plentifully provided for. The new Palace covers seven and a-half acres,
on the summit of a hill commanding the most magnificent scenery ; the more mag-
nificent, of course, because of the elevation of the spectator, and the distinct defi-
nition of scenes belonging to seven or eight counties. The park of 220 acres is sup-
plemented by a charming sylvan nook of 17 acres, called “The Grove,” wherein are
some of the finest oaks, chesnuts, copper beeches, elms, and hollies to be found in
all England. A distinctive feature of the Palace is that it contains an enclosed
garden, to be appropriated to sub-tropical plants of noble aspect, this garden being
connected with a tropical conservatory, now finely filled with palms, tree ferns, and
eycads, Mr. A. M‘Kenzie, the landscape gardener to the Company, has constructed
a first-class nursery near the west end of the building, for supplying the park and
gardens with bedding-plants, and the Palace with nobler forms of vegetation, and a
series of exhibitions is arranged for, the first of which is to be a rose show held on
the 24th and 25th of June. Before the next issue of the FLorat Worup appears,
we trust the greater world will ring with praises of the Alexandra Palace, and that
its success as a commercial undertaking may be satisfactorily assured.

Harpy Primroses were exhibited by Mr. Richard Dean, at the meeting of the
Floral Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society on the 7th ult., in splendid
condition, The plants of which the collection consisted were grown in pots, which
they well filled, and were densely furnished with flowers. The effect produced by
them in conjunction with Polyanthuses, Forget-me-nots, and other hardy spring
flowers, was exceedingly beautiful, and they were, as they well deserved to be, much

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 155

admired. Mr. Dean has for some years past devoted much attention to the im-
provement of Primroses and Polyanthuses, and he has sueceeded in raising some
wonderfully fine varieties. The collection at his seed grounds at Bedfont is perhaps
the finest in the country. These hardy Primroses and Polyanthuses are well
adapted for frame culture in pots, as well as for the embellishment of the flower
garden.

Tue PeLarconium TriAL at CaIswICk will be carried out as usual this year,
and it is requested that raisers of the new varieties, as well as introducers of
foreign novelties, will send to Mr. Barron, at Chiswick, the superintendent, plants
of such new varieties as they may be able to spare for trial purposes.

Tur Penarconium Soorety will hold its annual exhibition at South Kensing-
ton on July 21. A suggestion was made for holding the exhibition at Chiswick,
but there were certain difficulties in the way, and the Committee did not consider it
desirable to act upon it. The prizes offered by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons for fruit,
which in the aggregate amount to upwards of £100, will be submitted for competi-
tion on the same date as the Pelargonium Show.

Tue InrerNaTioNaAL Exureirion or Porarors projected by Mr. Peter
McKinlay, Woodbine House, Beckenham, and Mr. Shirley Hibberd, is making
satisfactory progress. The schedule comprises a large number of classes, and
amongst the prizes offered are three silver cups of the value of £5 5s. each, presented
by Messrs. J. Carter and Co., Messrs. Sutton and Sons, and Messrs. Hooper and Co.
The President is Mr. Alderman and Sheriff Ellis, and the Vice-President J. Abbiss,
Esq., J.P., and late Alderman of the City of London. The exhibition will be held
on the 29th and 30th of September, in the Alexandra Palace, Muswell Hill, the
directors of which, through Sir Edward Lee, have contributed £30 to the prize
fund. The promoters are in need of money to carry out the scheme, and subscrip-
tions are solicited.

Dessrnt Pears.—M. Gillekins, in the Moniteur Horticole Belge, recommends
the following six Pears for walls with a southern and eastern aspect, for late supplies :
—1, Doyenné d’Hiver, ripe from January—June ; 2, Beurré d’Hardenpoint, ripe in
December—January (this, with the preceding, are specially recommended for market
purposes); 3, Passe Colmar, December—January ; 4, Beurré Rance, January and
February ; 5, Josephine de Malines, February—March ; 6, Passe Crassane, January.
The same writer recommends the following six for those who wish to have Pears
from July to May :—1, Beurré Giffard; 2, Williams’ Bon Chrétien; 3, Louise
Bonne d’Avranches; 4, Beurré Durondeau (M. Gillekins states that the flowers of
this variety withstand spring frosts better than any other ; 5, Beurré Diel; 6, Ber-
oe Esperen, The last-mentioned six ripen in the orderin which they are here
placed.

Saxrrraca SrRacHert, a beautiful plant, has bloomed exceedingly well this
season on the rockwork at Kew. The flowers on opening are pure white, but
rapidly change to a pale pink colour. It is a near relative of S. ligulata, and was
raised from seeds sent by General Strachey, F.R.S., in 1851. It isa native of the
Western Himalaya and Thibet.

Tur Merrroroxocicar Socrery has issued a series of instructions for the obser-
vation of the first appearance in spring of wild flowers, birds, insects, etc. This list
has been drawn up by a conference of delegates from the Royal Agricultural,
Botanic, Dublin, Horticultural, Marlborough College, Natural History and Meteoro-
logical Societies. Some years since the British Association published a similar list.
Blank forms for recording these phenological phenomena can be had from the
secretary of the Meteorological Society, 30, Great George Street, S.W.

Tur Garston VINEYARD, near Liverpool, has been purchased by the Cowan
Patents Company, Limited, who intend to use the property for the purpose of ex-
hibiting their system of lime-kiln heating in full working order, while at the same
time endeavouring to maintain the well-earned fame of the Vineyard, and, if pos-
sible, to increase its reputation. The price paid was oyer £10,000.

Newan’s Boranicat Paver has obtained amongst working botanists the
celebrity it deserves, and many of our readers may be advantageously advised to
adopt it for herbarium purposes, as it combines absorptiveness of texture with great
strength. The size generally used measures 24 in. by 20 in., which affords a choice
of four useful sizes by folding or cutting the sheets. The time of year having
arrived when botanical excursions haye more than ordinary interest and entertain-

May.

156 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ment, the selection of a suitable paper for the herbarium becomes a matter of con-
siderable importance.

A New Perarconiem is announced in the French gardening journals. It is be-
lieved to be a cross between P. hederefulium and P. zonale, and it freely bears seed.
Our friend, Mr. Jean Sisley, describes it as resembling P. hederefolium in its pros-
trate habit of growth, with leaves like those of P. zonale. The flowers are bright
red, and produced in good trusses. It was found in a garden at Nice, in a bed
planted with several varieties of the zonal section, and a lilac-white variety of P.
hederafolium. Mr. Sisley considers it a great acquisition on account of its fertility
—a quality not possessed in a remarkable degree by Wilsii, Wilsii rosea, Emperor,
and Dolly Varden. He thinks it may probably give birth toa distinct new strain,
in the hands of a clever hybridiser. It will be sent ont this spring by Messrs.
Huber, of Nice. ;

PRIMULA PUICHERRIMA, introduced by Messrs. Backhouse and Son, York, is a
lovely species, taller than P. denticulata, and has deep Javender-purple flowers with
yellow centres, and borne in large trusses. Messrs. Backhouse say that it is ‘* quite
distinct from the plant usnally known as P. purpurea, though, judging by the
colour, it has far more right to the name. A grand plant both for rockwork and
well-drained borders, in stiff loamy soil, blooming in spring, and perfectly hardy
which the true P. denticulata is not with us.” Itis a charming plant for the
Alpine house and cold frame, as it may be cultivated most successfully in
pots.

A Larce Specimen or AvcuBA Japonica, standing in a sheltered corner in
the Gardens of the Royal Botanic Society, Regent’s Park, annually presents a most
attractive appearance in the early part of the year. It is about fifty feet in cireum-
ference and eight feet high, and the fertilization of its flowers is secured by placing
a small male plant in a pot in the centre of the bush. This season it was exceed-
ingly well furnished with its large brilliantly-coloured berries, and demonstrated in
the most forcible manner possible that 4 crop of berries may be reared with but
little difficulty. We noticed last autumn, in the nurseries of Mr. C. Turner, at
Slough, that the Aucubas in the open quarters were bearing berries freely, not-
se ag 3 the fact that the male plants were a considerable distance from
them.

Tue Loupon Crvp, intended as a common centre for horticulturists, has secured
a club-house in a suitable locality, within three minutes’ walk of Charing Cross.
The club offers its subscribers the conveniences of a West End club at very moderate
rates, there being handsome reading, dining, and drawing-rooms, as well as billiard-
rooms and smoking-rooms ; bedrooms for the accommodation of country members
are also provided. The subscription at present is two guineas per annum, with an
entrance fee of two guineas.

Tur Yertow Perareonium, P. oblongatum, has lately flowered in Mr.
Cannell’s nursery at Woolwich. The petals are long and narrow, and of unequal
size, the colour pale primrose-yellow, the top petals very lightly marked with purple
lines.

THe Reat Mawennarr Fern, Adiantum capillus-veneris, is reported by Mr.
H. C. Hart to be abundantin rocky ravines and fissures in the Arran Isles, Galway
Bay. :

A Great Ross Sow is announced to be held at the Alexandra Palace, Muswell
Hill, on Thursday and Friday, June 24 and 25.

Tue CotoGcNe INTERNATIONAL HortTicuLtuRAL Exuipition which opens on
the 25th of August, and closes on the 26th of September, comprises Horticultural
productions and appliances of every description. Flowers and fruits will be ex-
hibited in two series: the first series from August 25 to September 10, and the
second series from the 11th till the 26th of the last-mentioned month. It is under
the most distinguished patronage, and a very large number of most liberal prizes
are offered for competition.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 157

; TO CORRESPONDENTS.

J. C. J.—The Edinburgh firms referred to as having raised bedding violas of
great merit, were Messrs. Dickson and Son, 32, South Hanover Street, and Mr.
Downie, 17, South Frederick Street.

S. T. J.—You might grow ivies and ferns on the objectionable space of ground
in the greenhouse, if you would first make a low rockery with burrs or stones and
sandy peat soil. If you plant them on the level, the drip will probably kill them
or prevent healthy growth; bnt if raised one, two, or three feet (the higher the
better) they will improve the appearance of the house immensely.

PrimvuLas.—K. V.—The plants have excessively long flower stems through
their being crowded up with other things, or owing to their being placed too far
from the glass. Ifthe plants are grown in a pit near the glass in the early part of
the season, and when coming into bloom placed on a stage or shelf, from one to two
feet from the glass, the flower stems will be strong, and the trusses of bloom just
above the foliage. It is good practice to sow the seed early, to afford time for the
plants to be grown to their proper size without being pusied on in a temperature in
excess of their requirements.

Patms.—W. F. Frost.—The tips of the leaflets will assume a yellowish
appearance when the plants are kept too dry at the roots, and also when the soil
has become sour from an excess of moisture. The leaves of species requiring
stove temperature change colour in precisely the same manner when they are kept
for some time in a cool house. We can only advise you to supply them carefully
with water; they require rather liberal supplies, but overmuch moisture will cause
the soil to turn sour, and when this occurs the roots perish. Palms do not require a
very moist atmosphere, unless they are in a very high temperature. If you were to
give us the names of the kinds grown, we could tell you whether they are suitable
for the greenhouse, or whether they require a higher temperature. If, on examina-
tion, it is found that the soil is in a sour state, and the roots are in an unhealthy
condition, turn the plants out of the pots, remove as much of the soil as possible
without disturbing the roots too much, then cut away the decayed roots, and repot
in clean pots with a mixture of turfy loam and peat in about equal parts, and a
good sprinkling of silver sand. The roots must be disturbed as little as possible,
for palms suffer severely when the roots are unnecessarily interfered with.

Britisu Frerns.— 7. P. P.—The following seven, in addition to those you have
already in your collection, can be strongly recommended for exhibition purposes—
namely, Athyrium filix-foemina corymbiferum, a moderately robust variety ; the
fronds from eighteen to twenty inches high, and surmounted with a dense crest
several inches in width. astrea filix mas grandiceps, a strong grower, with
beautifully crested fronds. Polystichum angulare grandiceps, a tall strong-growing
variety, the fronds beautifully crested ; very distinct and handsome. P. a. proli-
Serum Wollastoni, a robust and exceedingly elegant form ; the fronds range from
two to three feet in length, and from six to eight inches in breadth, according to
the size and vigour of the specimens. The Scolopendrium vulgare digitatum and
S. v. ramo-marginatum are both exceedingly good. Asplenium marinum is very
distinct and remarkably beautiful, and, when well grown, makes a good specimen,
and is useful in affording a greater variety in a collection.

Potyanruuses in Pots.—B. B.—The laced polyanthuses which are now in
pots should be placed on a north border when they go out of bloom, and receive
moderate supplies of water during the summer season. In the autumn they can
be divided and be put in pots, or what is decidedly better for them, be planted ina
bed of good loamy soil in a cold frame. The polyanthuses lifted from the flower-beds
should be planted on ashady border, and be put rather close together in lines, nine
or twelve inches apart. In the autumn, when the flower-beds have been cleared
of their summer occupants, they cun be lifted and divided.

Harpenine orr Beppine Pranrs.—A Young Gardener.—The hardiest of the
bedders—the geraniums, calceolarias, petunias, and verbenas, for example, that are
now nicely established, and properly hardened, may be removed from the frames toa
sheltered position out of doors,and be protected with mats atnight. ‘Temporary frames,
or cradles as they are technically termed, made about four feet in width, with
planks nine or twelve inches wider, set on edge, and held together by cross pieces, are

May,

158 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

most valuable for bedding plants at this stage. They cost very little to make, as
the planks forming the sides can be fixed in their places by means of stout pegs
driven into the ground, and the commonest of boards may be cut up to make cross
pieces. The plants can be protected from frosts with mats laid over the cradles,
with a few pieces of wood laid across to prevent them breaking or otherwise injuring
them. The tender bedders, such as Alternantheras and Coleus, should be removed
from the stove to the frames as soon as convenient after the middle of the month.
They must be kept rather close at first, and if the frames are heated, a little artificial
warmth will be most beneficial to them during periods of cold weather... As it is
not safe to plant them out until quite the end of May, they should be kept rather
warm until the first week or so in that month, to keep them in a progressive state,
but after the first week they must be gradually hardened, and for a fortnight or so
before they are planted, the lights must be drawn off altogether during the day.
Bedders raised from seed should be potted off separately, or pricked off into boxes
with as little delay as possible and be put in the frames.

CuemicaL Manures, &c.—Amateur.—The article in the Garden Oracle for
1872, mentions the chemicals used in M. Ville’s experiments. To give quantities
or proportions is impossible, because soils differ so greatly in requirements. Good
soils in good condition are, generally speaking, in no way benefited by artificial
manures, but poor soils may be greatly aided, especially by the use of potash salts
and phosphates. You may reckon half a ton per acre as the fullest dose of any
chemical mixture allowable. Ofsuch a manure as Aimes’s patent, 5 cwt. per acre
is plenty. You may remove weeds by means of salt and other such plant-killing
materials, but you will run a risk of killing the box edging also. In the best kept
gardens they have not yet got beyond hand weeding. Nitrate ofsoda is especially
suitable for plants that are grown for their leaves, but it is a good stimulant also
for onions. If in solution, put one pound to ten gallons of water ; if used dry
spread it at the rate of a pound and a half to the square rod. The chemical
manures we have found most useful on chalky and sandy soils are muriate of potash
and superphosphate, 4 cwt. of each to the acre for potatoes.

T. T. P.—Your selection comprises a very desirable lot. We should recommend
you to add Athyrium f. f. multifidum, Lastrea f. m. polydactyla. But we are
not prepared to strike out of your list two to make room for them.

Beppine Dautias,— Amateur.—The dwarf-growing dahlias are very attractive
in large beds and in broad borders, as they produce a profusion of flowers, and are
quite distinct in character. "We should advise you to purchase the plants early in
the month, and to place them in a frame for a fortnight or so before planting ont.
They should be kept rather close during the first three or four days after they are
received, but afterwards the lights should be removed altogether during the day.
As they will be in small pots, they will require a supply of water once a day, for
the moisture soon dries out of the soil. In planting them in beds, the various
colours may be mixed; but in the case of borders due care should be taken to
distribute the colours throughout the entire length. It is a very good plan to
arrange the dark and light flowers alternately, and when the border is very broad,
to form good masses by putting three plants of each variety together. We would
suggest that the arrangement of the colours in the borders be in the following
order: scarlet, yellow, maroon, lilac, crimson,white, purple, and lilac, and then repeat
as many times as may be necessary in precisely the same order. ‘The following are
the most desirable of the border varieties :—Scarlet, Charles Backhouse, Disraeli,
Madge Wildfire, and Firefly ; yellow, Leah, Pluton, Flambeau; maroon, John
Sladden and Gladiator; lilac, Lilac Queen, Juno, and Mrs. Bennett ; crimson,
James Service, Emperor, Lord Palmerston, Captain Ingram, Floribunda, and
Crimson Gem; white or pale-coloured, Mrs. Brunton, Charlotte Darling, Mar-
chioness of Bath, Maid of Essex, Snowball, and White Bedder. The two latter
are pure white. Dahlias should be planted in well manured soil, if practicable, and
away from the shade of trees. They do very well intermixed with shrubs, if the
latter are not too close together ; but they become drawn and do not bloom satis-
factorily when in borders overshadowed by trees. The bouquet varieties, which
have Lilliputian flowers, produce a good effect, and are useful for furnishing cut
flowers during the autumn season. ‘The best of these are—Dr, Webb and Fireball,
scarlet; Guiding Star and Little Dear, white; Golden Canary and Glow-worm,
yellow ; Little Nigger and Little Bobby, crimson; Nemesis and Perfection of

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 159

Lilliputs, maroon; and Pure Love and Tom Tit, lilac, The price of dahlias during
May ranges from 3s. to 4s. 6d. per dozen.

Kipney Beans ror Exursirion.—S. §.—The finest dwarf French bean for
exhibition purposes is Cutbush’s Giant Scarlet, which produces an abundance of
pods ranging from eight to ten inches in length, which are thick and fleshy, and
remarkably handsome. It is one of the best, also, for main crops, because of its
productiveness and fine quality. To make sure of obtaining it true, we would
advise you to obtain the seed direct from the introducers, Messrs. W. Cutbush and
Son, Highgate, N., or in sealed pint or quart packets, as sent out by the firm
through the seedsman who usually supplies you. The best scarlet runner for exhi-
bition is Carter’s Champion, which bears pods nearly twice the size of the ordinary
scarlet runner whilst quite young and tender. It is very productive, and of the
finest quality. This should be procured direct from Messrs. J. Carter and Co., of
High Holborn, for, to keep it true, a rigid system of selection has to be carried out.
Both kinds are of strong growth, and require rather more space than others of the
respective classes.

SrrawBERRY Brps.—G@. H. R.—The strawberry plants which have been
frnited in pots in the orchard-house will, if planted out at once, soon become esta-
blished, and form fine crowns by the autumn; next year they will produce heavy
crops of fruit. They should have two or three thorough waterings during the first
fortnight or so of their being planted, to assist them to form new roots, and take
possession of the soil as quickly as possible.

Azatras.—H. F. G.—The azaleas which were purchased in the spring, and
have just flowered, should be shifted without delay into pots one size larger. Let
the pots be clean and well drained ; use a compost of fibrous peat, broken up rather
small, and sharp silver sand. If readily procurable, add one part of mellow turfy
loam to every two parts of peat. The soil must be pressed very firm, and proper
care taken to make it of the same degree of firmness all round the ball, so that the
water shall not soak away more readily on one side than the other. After they are
potted, place them in a frame, keep rather close for the first fortnight or three
weeks, and syringe them lightly overhead once a day in dull weather, and twice a
day when the weather is warm and dry. Place some rather thin material over the
glass in sunny weather. At the expiration of three weeks commence to ventilate
freely, and as they will have become established at the end of a second period of
three weeks, remove them in about six weeks or two months, from the time of their
being repotted, to a rather shady situation out of doors.

SHAKSPEARE’S WALLFLOWERS.—R. 4.—The plants began to flower in February,
but the weather was against them. Throughout the past month they have been
solid with bloom. We shall soon have seed enough to satisfy all inquirers.

TRADE CATALOGUES.

James BackuousE AND Sons, Yorx.—Catalogue of Alpine Plants and Hardy
Perennials.

Wirt1am Barron anp Son, Ervaston Nurseries, BorrowAsu, NEAR DERBY.
—Descriptive Catalogue of Roses, and Select List of Conifere and Ornamental
Plants, ete.

B. K. Briss anp Sons, 44, Barcuay Srreet, New Yorn. — Catalogue of
Potatoes.

Rozerr Burst, 922, Marker Srreer, ParnapELPHiA.—Supplement to Cata-
logue of New and Rare Plants.

Wruram Burt, Kine’s Roan, Cuetsza, Lonpon, 8.W. — Retail List of
Flower, Vegetable and Agricultural Seeds, and New Plants.

James Carter anp Co., Hien Hoxrzorn, Lonpon.—ZIilustrated Catalogue
of Prize Farm Seeds and Potatoes.

J. Coomprs, Exrretp, Mrippiesex.—Catalogue of Cuttings of Geraniums, ete.

Messrs. F. anp A. Dickson anp Sons, Cuester.— Catalogue of New and
Select Farm Seeds.

_May

160 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Ewine anp Co., Tuz Royat Norrorx Nurseries, Norwicu.—List of New
Roses for 1875, New Patent Greenhouses, Lawn Mowers, ete.

Freset AND Co., Horticutturists, Neumunster, Zuricu. — Price List of
Seeds, Bedding Plants, and New Plants.

E. G. Henprexson anp Son, WELLINGTON Roap, St. Joun’s Woop, Lonpon.-
—Illustrated Catalogue of Flower, Vegetable, and Agricultural Seeds.

Louis Van Houtre, Royat Nurserrs, Guent, Bererum. — Catalogue of
Gesneraceous Plants, Caladiums, Cannas, and other Bulbous and Tuberous-
vooted Plants.

VY. Lemornt, Rue pe w’Erane, 67, A Nancy. — Catalogue of New Plants,
efc., for 1875.

J. Linpen, 52, Ruz pu Cuaumr, Gann, Betctum.—Catalogue of Stove and
Greenhouse Plants, ete.

Tuomas Mreuan, Germantown Nurseries, Puiraperpata. — Wholesale
Price List for 1875.

Witrram Pavt, Wattuam Cross, Lonpon, N. — Catalogue of New Roses,
Geraniums, Phloxes, Dahlias, Hollyhocks, ete.

Smirn anp Simmons, 36, Howarp Street, St. Enocu Square, GLAscow.
—Cultural Guide and Seed Catalogue.

Sruart anp Mein, Woop Market, Kretso.—General Catalogue of Seeds.

Messrs. Sutron AND Sons, Royat BeErksHrrRE SEED EsTABLISHMENT,
Reapine.— Farmers’ Year Book and Graziers’ Manual.

THIBpauT AND KerrenErr, Ruz Hovpan, 87, a Sczaux, Szine. — General
Catalogue of Plants, ete.

Vitmorin, ANDRIEUX AND Co., Quart DE 1a MercissEric, Paris.— Catalogue
of Trees, Shrubs, Conifers, etc.

T. S. Ware, Hate Farm Nurseries, Torrenuam, Lonpon.—Spring Cata-
logue of Hybrids, etc.

ALEGATIERE, CHEMIN DE St. Priest, A Monpxaistr, Lyons. — Catalogue of
Florists’ Flowers.

EXHIBITIONS TO BE HELD IN MAY.

1.—ALEXANDRA Patacre, Muswett Hiwr.—Opening Festival.

1.—Crystrat Patace.—Lrhibition of Spring Flowers.

1 ro 24,—Royan Botanic Socrery. — Messrs. Jackman’s Exhibition of
Clematis.

3 ro 10.—Royaz Botanic Socrery.— Ur. W. Paul’s Exhibition of Pot Roses
and Pictorial Trees.

5 to 7.—Crvystat PaLtaceE.—WMule and Donkey Show.

5.—Royat OxrorpswirE Horricurtvran Socrery.—Annual Spring Show.

7 & 8—Royat Botanic Ganpens, Giascow.— Horticultural Exhibition.

12.—Batu.—First Floral Fete.

12.—Royat Hoxricutturat Socrery.—Exhibition of Pot Roses and Meeting
of the Fruit, Floral, and Scientific Committees.

14 ro 21.—Mancuester Boranicat ann HorricutruraL Socrety.—Annual
National Horticultural Kxhibition at Old Trafford.

17 & 18.—Haiirax Horticurturat Socrety.—Annual Exhibition.

20.—Royat Horricunturat Sociery or Ineranp.—Great May Exhibition.

20.—CotcuEsTER AND East Essex Honrticunturan Socrery.— first Summer
Exhibition.

26.—RoyaL Horricutturat Sociery.—WMeeting of Fruit, Floral, and Scien-
tific Committees.

26.—Royat Botanic Socrety.—First Summer Exhibition.

29.—CrystaL Patace.—Summer Flower Show.

31.—CovenTRY AND WarwicksHire Horticurruran Socrery. — Annual
Exhibition.

31, To June 26.—Mancuester Boranicat AND HorticuLTURAL SocieTy.—
Exhibition of Rhododendrons at Old Trafford.

os

a
aw

BREARLEVA

rN
A,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 161

DIPLADENIAS.
(With Coloured Illustration of Dipladenia Brearleyana.)
BY GEORGE GORDON,

MPG IPLADENIAS have long occupied a high position
%| amongst stove plants grown for their flowers, and now
that so many valuable additions have been made to the
ss somewhat circumscribed list of species and varieties,
they will probably obtain increased attention from
cultivators generally. The newest and one of the very best of
recent introductions is Dipladenia Brearleyana, of which a
coloured illustration accompanies these remarks. It is not only
one of the best of the Dipladenias, but it is one of the finest of
stove plants, whether we regard its adaptability for training up the
pillars and along the rafters of the plant stove, or for cultivation as
a specimen plant. For the latter purpose, it is probably without an
equal, and those who cultivate plants for competitive purposes should
lose no time in making its acquaintance. It is a garden hybrid,
distributed for the first time last autumn, by Mr. William Bull, the
well known new and rare plant merchant, of the King’s Road,
Chelsea. It is of free growth, and is furnished with opposite oblong
acute leaves of a deep rich green, which form an admirable back-
ground to the immense clusters of richly-coloured flowers. The
flowers are of a larger size than those of existing species, and of an
exceedingly rich shade of crimson, which increases in intensity as
the flowers acquire age. They are produced in clusters of large
size ; and a specimen two or three feet in height, and as much in
diameter, and furnished with twenty or thirty of these clusters, has
a wonderfully striking appearance. A well-flowered plant trained
up a pillar in the stove is also exceedingly beautiful.
_ The other first-class Dipladenias now in cultivation are :—D.
amend, a variety of free growth, the flowers abundantly produced,
and of deep rose colour, with orange throat. D. Boliviense, a more
slender grower than the other kinds, producing a profusion of small
pure white flowers. D. insignis, the flowers large and of good sub-
stance, the lobes rose-carmine, the throat deeper in colour, and the
outside of the tube white. D. Williamsi, a magnificent hybrid with
large flowers of a delicate rose-pink, the throat bright rose. It is
very free flowering, and in every way a decided acquisition.
Dipladenias require a stove temperature throughout the year,
and in the early part of the year an atmosphere well charged with
humidity is most conducive to their well-being. They should, as a
rule, be potted just before they commence to make new growth in
the spring, in a compost prepared by incorporating together
two parts each of fibrous loam and peat, and one part of silver sand
and nodules of charcoal. The sand and charcoal to be in equal pro-
portions. The pots must be well drained, and, as a rule, about
double the crocks required for the general stock of stove plants
Jane, Ty

162 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

should be put in the pots. To enable them to start into a vigorous
growth, place upon a bed of fermenting materials, or over the hot-
water pipes, if practicable, as a rather brisk bottom-heat is found of
immense assistance to them in the early part of the year. The size
of the pcts must be determined by the relative size of the plants,
and, excepting when they are very small, a shift once a year will
suffice to maintain them in the most healthy condition. The flowers
appear to the greatest advantage when the growth is trained to
a balloon-shaped trellis, fixed firmly in the pot. To afford ample
opportunities for the proper development of the foliage, and to
enable the young wood to acquire sufficient strength to produce
a profusion of well-developed flowers, the shoots should be trained
to strings up the rafters of the stove, each shoot to have a separate
string. When the flower-buds can be distinctly seen, take them
down and neatly arrange them on the trellis. As the shoots will
have twined round the strings, no attempt must be made to separate
the two. During the summer, moderate supplies of water will
suffice, and in winter very little will be required. The atmospheric
humidity needful, previous to their coming into bloom, may be
provided by sprinkling the stages and paths two or three times a
day. After they go out of bloom, and the season’s growth is com-
pleted, place them in a sunny position, and, if possible, remove to a
house in which the temperature is rather lower.

The season’s growth will require to be pruned back moderately
in the course of the winter.

RAISING SEEDLING CINERARIAS.

BY J. JAMES,
Head Gardener, Redlees, Isleworth, W.

SHE notices which have appeared in the horticultural
papers of the display of cinerarias we have had at Red-
lees during the past season, and of the seedling cinerarias
Ihave exhibited at the metropolitan shows, have brought
me many letters asking for information in reference to
the cultivation of these flowers from seed. From these inquiries,
it appears that there are numerous cultivators who, as yet, are not
so well acquainted with the principal details as they should be, and
a concise description of my system of culture will possibly be use-
ful to many readers of the Firorat, Worxp. ;

As an exhibitor of cinerarias for something like twenty years, I
have necessarily paid special attention to these flowers, and have
annually grown large numbers of plants raised from offsets and
from seeds. Propagation by means of offsets for the purpose of in-
creasing the stock of seedlings of superior quality, and of varieties
obtained from nurseries under name, is attended with some little
trouble and a few difficulties, and cannot be recommended as suit-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 163

able for amateurs. Raising seedlings, on the other hand, is very
simple, and, it appears to me, that it is well nigh impossible to fail.
Much has been written in books and periodicals condemnatory of
seedlings, because, as it is asserted, a very large proportion come
tall in growth, and bear ill-shaped and badly-coloured flowers. To
a certain extent this assertion is correct; for if the seed is saved
from flowers of an inferior character, the seedlings will be inferior
also; but by saving seed from first-class varieties only, the per-
centage of inferior flowers will be very small, so small as not to be
worth a moment’s consideration. Our collection this year comprised
some hundreds of seedlings, and there was hardly a variety inferior
to the best of the named sorts, and there were many vastly supe-
rior, and they were so regular in growth that even the most
experienced cultivator might have fallen into the error of supposing
that the stock had been increased by means of offsets. The flowers
were large, mostly of fine quality, and all exceedingly rich in colour.
I mention this, merely to show that, with good seed, the flowers
will be of excellent quality; and if I have said more than ought to
be said upon this point, our editor, who has seen my seedlings, will,
doubtless, set me right. I may add, that I save my own seed, and
that some years of careful selecting has been necessary to bring my
strain to its present state of perfection.

Cinerarias are of the most value for decorative purposes in March
and April; and to produce strong plants for blooming in these
months, sow in the first or second week in June. Prepare one or
more pans by putting an inch layer of small crocks in the bottom,
and then filling, nearly level with the rim, with light sandy soil ; sow
thinly, and cover lightly with fine sandy soil. The surface should then
be sprinkled lightly with water, and the seed-pans placed in a cold pit
or frame in a shady position. We find it advantageous to shut the
seed-pans up in a small propagating frame inside the pit, as by this
means the soil holds the moisture longer, and frequent waterings
are, therefore, rendered unnecessary. This is a decided gain, because
of the risk of some portion of the seed perishing when the pans are
placed where the moisture dries out of the soil quickly. The latter
must be maintained in a moderately moist condition, and as soon as
the young plants make their appearance, remove the cover from the
inside frame ; and as they increase in strength, admit air to the outer
frame by tilting the lights at the back. As soon as the seedlings
have a rough leaf as large as a shilling, prepare other pans similar to

-those in which the seed is sown, and the compost used for filling
these should contain a rather larger proportion of leaf-mould. When
the surface has been made rather firm, carefully lift the seedlings
with a pointed stick, and dibble them in the pans rather more than
an inch apart, sprinkle them lightly, and shut them up in the frames
again for a week or ten days, by which time they will be established
in the new soil. They will require rather liberal supplies of water,
and when they begin to grow and produce new leaves, the frame
must be ventilated more freely. They will soon fill these pans, and
when the plants touch each other put them separately in the pots
known as “small sixties.” Again place in the frame, and also keep

June,

164 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

close for a week or so, and when it is found that the roots are run-
ning freely round the sides of the pot increase the supply of water,
and immediately there are sufficient roots to hold the ball of soil
firmly together, shift into pots five inches in diameter. It may be
proper to add that the pots, whilst in the frame, should be stood
upon boards or coal ashes, to prevent the worms entering the pots;
and as the cinerarias delight in a cool and rather moist atmosphere
during the summer, a canful of water may be poured over the floor
occasionally with advantage tothem. If the pit is in a sunny posi-
tion, the plants must be shaded in bright weather.

After the shift into five-inch pots, the season will have so far
advanced as to render a cool, airy house, or a roomy pit, more de-
sirable quarters for the stock. During the winter, sufficient artificial
heat must be employed to keep out the frost and to dry up super-
fluous moisture, and no more; and during a sharp frost, the lights
should be covered with mats, so that it may not be necessary to use
an excess of fire-heat for keeping out the frost. About the last week
of Jaruary, or the first week in February, shift them into one size
larger, and then no further repotting will be required, as it is in-
tended they should bloom in these pots. Cinerarias from seed
require no stopping or training, and to keep them dwarf and com-
pact, they must be placed near the glass from the time they are
potted off separately until they are coming into bloom and are
removed to the conservatory. They should receive nothing but
clear soft water, as the use of stimulants frequently does more harm
than good. The foliage sometimes becomes infested with green-
fly, but this pest may be readily destroyed by fumigating them with
tobacco. The compost we have found the most suitable after they
are potted off separately, is prepared with mellow loam four parts,
leaf-mould one part, and a small proportion each of manure rotted to
a powder, and sharp silver sand.

To prevent private letters being addressed to me, which my
duties render it impossible for me to answer, I would say that seed
raised from first-class strains may be had from the principal seeds-
men, provided the best seed is ordered.

Mr. Wirt1am Pavw’s Exurerrion or Por Roszs, which is now considered one
of the important events of the London season, was this year held in the gardens of
the Royal Botanic Society in the Regent’s Park. The plants were arranged in the
large Rhododendron tent‘on the west side of the gardens, and although the display,
as in past years, was rich in specimens of immense size, fresh and superbly flowered,
did not appear equal to similar shows held at the Crystal Palace and South Ken-
sington. The tent was too large to allow of the specimens being staged close
enough together to produce a decisive effect and leave a thoroughly favourable im-
pression on the mind. ‘The general effect was also materially impaired by the pots
being placed on the bare soil instead of on grass banks. There was one advantage
in having a large tent, and that consisted in plenty of space being afforded for the
whole of the specimens to be stood out singly, so that they could be readily seen on
all sides. The exhibition comprised in addition to the roses a large number of fine
pyramidal specimen Ivies, numerous hardy deciduous trees with variegated and
richly-coloured foliage, a few choice evergreens, and examples of some of the best
gold, silver, and brouze zonal pelargoniums,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 165

THE NETTLE AND THE HEMP.
A STUDY FOR THE GARDEN BOWER.

sseSa5 HE nettle and the hemp are two of the best known

4, plants in all the world; yet while everybody to a cer-
tainty knows the first, there are people (not of the
ignorant class) who do not know the second. And

~~ When I come to think of it, there are people (also not
of the ignorant class) who do not know the nettle thoroughly. It
is a delighfully hot day, and I am in no humour for preparing a
careful essay, but 1 have just had a walk round the garden, and the
nettles and the hemps have suggested to me that something might
be said about them that perhaps would, at this season of the year,
interest the readers of the Froran Worip. May I for once write
hastily, with strict regard to facts, and the least possible regard to
system? I will venture, and hope, even in the rough, to be useful.

As to nettles, you have seen of late two beautiful plants in
flower, the white dead nettle, Lamiuwm album, and the red dead
nettle, Lamium purpwreum. As the summer advances other dead
nettles will come into flower, one of the most noticeable being the
yellow weasel-snout, Galeobdolon lutewm. Now these are dead nettles,
and do not sting. In other words, they are not nettles at all, but
belong to the Labiate order, in which we find nearly all our savoury
herbs and home-grown spices, such as horehound, sage, mint,
thyme, marjoram, ground ivy, basil, ete. But there may be a dead
nettle that stings, for the labourers in the harvest field are some-
times afflicted with a severe inflammation of the hand or finger,
which they attribute to the common hemp nettle, or “ dog nettle,”
Galeopsis tetrahit, which has tubular bristles arising from a swollen
base or vesicle. But it is by no means clearly established that this
plant has the power of stinging.

The real nettle, Urtica, is a representative plant, for in the nettle
tribe Urricrm we find the mulberry, the bread-fruit, the-upas, the
cow-tree, the hemp, the hop, and the fig. The common nettle, Urtica
dioica, is in some places a pest, as on the borders of grass-fields and
in water-cress beds. But though feared and ruthlessly rooted out
by diligent farmers and gardeners, it might be made much of in the
arts. ‘The young tops make a good spring vegetable when cooked
as spinach, but of much more importance is the tough fibre of its
stems, which may be manufactured into the strongest of ropes.
The ancient Egyptians so employed it, and moreover they wove its
finest fibres into linen of the best quality, so that this savage plant
helped in its day |to clothe the voluptuous limbs of Cleopatra.
In Siberia and Piedmont nettle fibre is largely used, and in this
country it has been to some extent, but not to a great extent, em-
ployed in the manufacture of paper. The nutritive properties of
the nettle are not less important. The rough green herb may be
erushed to serve as fodder for horses, cattle, and sheep, and when
mixed with wheat straw, constitutes as good a food, barring hard

June.

166 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

corn, that can be given to horses. The seeds are of immense value
as food for horses and poultry, but should be mixed with other corn,
Finally, the juice of the plant will coagulate milk, without giving it
any unpleasant flavour. In Sweden the plant is cultivated for cattle
feed, and in Scotland it is forced as a table vegetable.

The sting of the nettle is a first-rate microscopic object. It may
be easily removed from the stem by means of a sharp knife, and
when submitted to examination will be found to be constructed as
represented in the accompanying figure. It consists of a sharp
pointed tube filled with a pellucid fluid, which is secreted by a little

STING OF COMMON NETTLE. STING OF WASP.

gland at the base, and there held in reserve for use. It will be well
to compare it with the sting of a wasp, which is easily obtained.
This is formed of a long taper process, furnished at the base with
cells and glands, and on each side arise jointed arms, the end joints
being covered with hairs. The end of the sting is flattened and
pointed, and one side is serrated, so that it combines the features of
the dagger and the saw, and being hollow and connected with glands
that secrete an irritant poison, it is, in its way, a more formidable
weapon of war than man has ever designed, though his best facul-
ties of brain and hand have been, time out of mind, directed to the
production of engines of offence.

The nettle supplies food to several insects, but notably to the
beautiful nettle butterfly, Vanessa urtica, the ugly caterpillars of
which may now be found in great abundance on the plant. In a
delightful article on the subject published in the first volume of

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 167

«“ Recreative Science,” Dr. Deakin says, Those who wish to see the
wonderful transformation of this interesting tribe of insects, should
take some of the largest caterpillars that they can find feeding upon
the leaves of the nettle, and place them in a cage made for the
purpose, or an ordinary bird-cage, covered with thin muslin or lace,
to prevent their escape. Then feed them with the fresh leaves of
the nettle until they have arrived at maturity ; after which they
become listless, and soon change into the pupa state, and thus remain
dormant for atime. They then burst the hard case which covers
them, and the perfect butterfly comes forth decked in all its brilliant
colours, and is soon ready for flight, and no one, however much he
may have disliked the unattractive caterpillar, will now fail to ad-

THE NETILE BUTTERFLY.

a, caterpillar ; 0, chrysalis ; ¢, perfect insect.

mire the perfect insect clothed in its beautifully coloured and ex-
quisitely arraaged minute scale-like feathers. The butterfly, soon
after it becomes fully developed, deposits a considerable number of
small roundish eggs, and always places them on or near the plant
suited for the young caterpillar which each egg contains, and which in
the course of a short time, by the aid of the heat of the sun, breaks
its delicate shell. Thus, without much difficulty or trouble, may be
observed all the remarkable transformations which the progeny of
the butterfly undergoes.

The reader does not need to be informed what these transforma-

June

168 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

tions are. The egg becomes a grub or caterpillar; this changes to
a chrysalis, and in due time the beautiful butterfly comes forth. The
history is one of the most sublimely poetical that we shall find in
the great book of Nature. To the Christian it may represent the
resurrection and glorified life to which man is destined ; to the
classical scholar it 1s full of fanciful suggestions, the most attractive
of all being the fable of Psyche. In the paper to which reference
has been made above, Dr. Deakin says:—Great learning and labo-
rious research have been bestowed by many men in the endeavour to
trace out the origin of this myth; but nothing appears to be really
known of it anterior to the time of Apuleius, who lived, it is be-
lieved, towards the close of the second century of the Christian era.
In his work, ‘The Metamorphosis,’ the title of which was after-
wards changed to that of ‘The Golden Ass ;’ not, however, it is
thought, by the author himself, but probably on account of its
affinity to Lucien’s story of ‘The Ass,’ the epithet of ‘ golden’
being added as a mark of admiration. The episode of Psyche is
introduced in the latter part of the fourth book, and it is continued
in the fifth and sixth; but the simplicity of the myth, as no doubt
it was in its original state, is here greatly distorted by many puerili-
ties and absurdities.

The origin of: this symbolical fable may be traced back to a
period much anterior to the time of Apuleius, especially through the
medium of ancient gems.

The ancient Egyptians likened the supposed renewal of the
earth after the flood, and the return of Time, to a second infancy ;
and depicted the renovation of the world under the emblem of a
child, and called him Hros, that is to say, Love. Hesiod, in his
‘Theogony,’ 1. 120, in alluding to the state of Nature after the
deluge, says: ‘ First Chaos was produced, then Tellus, then Love,
the most beautiful of the gods; Love the soother and softener,
who relaxed the weary limbs.’ Aristophanes, in his comedy of the
‘ Birds,’ 1. 695, says, in his poetical language of the same event,
‘Sable-winged night then produced an egg, whence sprouted up,
like a blossom, Hros, the lovely and desirable, with his glossy golden
wings.’ Love is here used emblematic of the divine mercy for the
human race. The Greeks introduced as its companion, the personi-
fication of the soul, originally in the form of the aurelia, or butter-
fly. Plutarch, in the second book of his ‘Symposiacon,’ says: ‘A
chrysalis, after being stiffened and cracked from dryness, emits
through its opening a second animal with wings, which is called
Psyche.’

‘The winged animal,’’ Mrs. Strutt says,* ‘thus designated by
Plutarch under the name of Psyche, the word by which the Greeks
expressed likewise the soul, is in all probability that whieh lian
calls Pyraustes (Ivpavorys), a word denoting the attractive influ-
ence which light or fire exercises upon the moth. This truth in

* A very beautiful.and talented work, ‘‘The Story of Psyche, with a Classical
Inquiry into the Signification and Origin of the Fable,” by Elizabeth Strutt ; with
designs in outline by John Gibson, Esq, R.A.; to which we are chiefly indebted
for the remarks here made in allusion to the fable.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 169

natural philosophy is poetically depicted to the eye by the device,
which we see on many ancient gems, of Cupid holding a butterfly
over his torch, by which act is at the same time typified the suffer-
ing of the soul from being subjugated by passion; and, mystically,
its purification ‘as by fire’ from
the defilement of matter. Such
an ingenious allegory was not
likely to escape the attention of
the poets, and we accordingly
find it alluded to by them at an
early period. Thus Meleager,
B.c. 160, plays very prettily, in
one of his epigrams, upon the
double meaning of the word
Psyche, as a moth and as the
soul, introducing it in immediate
connection with Hros, or Love.’

The same authoress, in allu-
sion to the caterpillar, says: ‘ At
the close of its final existence as
a worm, crawling upon this lower
earth, an emblem of man encum-
bered with his material body, PSYCHE IN THE FLAME.
this insect lies dead as it were
for a season, in a sort of tomb or grave, which bears a great resem-
blance to the mummies found in the Egyptian tombs. In this state
of darkness,’ the authoress continues, ‘it remains throughout the
gloom of winter ; at the joyous return of spring, the torpid chrysalis
bursts its bonds, leaves its earthly body (or rather case), never
more to be resumed, and soars up towards heaven, decked in the
most gorgeous attire, and rejoicing in new life; a beauteous type of
the celestial soul freed from the restraints of matter, and exulting in
liberty and light.’

‘Like other animal symbols,’ says Payne Knight, in his ‘ In-
quiry into the Symbolical Language of the Ancients,’ ‘as the owl,
under which Minerva was first depicted, this Psyche was by degrees
melted into the human form, the original wings only being retained
to mark its meaning. So elegant an allegory would naturally be a
favourite subject of art among a refined and ingenious people; and
it accordingly appears to have been diversified and repeated by the
Greek sculptors more than any other which this system of emana-
tion so favourable to art could have formed.’

It would take us far beyond the province of this work to
enumerate all the interpretations which have been given of this
fable, for ere are few authors who have written upon ancient litera-
ture or the arts but have given their ideas as to its symbolical
meaning; in the arts, especially that of sculpture and engraving
upon gems and stones, even down to our own times, it is one of the
most favourite subjects treated, and every collection, either of an-
cient or modern art, has some representation of the subject.

That there isa pure and lofty signification symbolically repre-

June.

170 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

sented in the fable there can be no doubt. Archdeacon Nares, in
his ‘ Remarks upon the Ballet of Cupid and Psyche,’ says: ‘ Psyche,
the human soul, formed originally of exquisite purity and beauty, is
placed in a state of refined happiness, of which, however, some of
the principal causes are concealed. Amidst the enjoyments offered
to her, one prohibition only is interposed. It is required, as the
condition on which her happiness depends, that she shall not at-
tempt to gain forbidden knowledge concerning the Author of her
blissful state. Contrary to her own better judgment, she is over-
persuaded by wicked and malicious suggestions, and actually ac-
quires the knowledge she was so strictly ordered not to seek. Her
curiosity and disobedience are fatal. She is driven from her state
of happiness, and sent to wander over the earth, amidst innumera-
ble difficulties and trials; yet constantly, whenever she is in any
danger of sinking under the severity of her situation, some super-
natural interposition (that is, some divine revelation) prevents her
from despairing, and kindly enables her to perform that which was
naturally beyond her powers. Even in the first moment of her con-
demnation, her judges, we are told, showed manifest tokens of an
affection to which every other consideration was subordinate. And,
finally, when she is depressed even to hell by the difficulties which
assail her, divine love—for so, with Mr. Bryant, I am inclined to
think Cupid (Eros)—interposes for her relief, and not only rescues
her from the horrors of that dreadful place, but, uniting her with
himself, places her for ever in a state of transcendent exaltation and
of perfect bliss.’ ‘Such,’ continues the reverend commentator, ‘is
this extraordinary allegory, which, that I have not in any respect
misinterpreted, may be seen by recurrence to Apuleius, Fulgentius,
Baucer. Now, if it be true, as I believe has been conjectured, that
the mystic fables and hieroglyphics of the Egyptians concealed, as
beneath a veil, these important truths, which at first were known
universally to all men, but which in other places, except when pre-
served by divine interference were lost, corrupted, or forgotten—if
this, I say, be true, if it be even probable, why may we not consider
this fable of Cupid and Psyche as a singular and very curious in-
stance of the perfect preservation of one of these religious alle-
gories P The Greeks, it is well known, even by their own confes-
sion, borrowed from Egypt all their mythology; but, if this inter-
pretation be admitted, we can hardly expect to discover, among all
their thefts, another of any comparable importance.’ (‘ Essays,’
1810.)

With regard to the way in which this subject has been treated
by the imagination and skilful hand of the artist, the most ancient
illustrations known are probably those found on gems, in which
Cupid is represented holding a butterfly over a flaming torch,
which we have already alluded to. At a later period the body of
the butterfly is transformed into that of a beautiful female figure,
with the wings of the butterfly attached between the shoulders.
After this period Psyche always appears to be thus represented. At
no period of art has the fable of Psyche been more beautifully and
elegantly illustrated than by Mr. John Gibson, R.A., in whose studio

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. yal

at Rome the whole series may be advantageously seen. Those who
may be disposed to study the subject more at length will find it
treated with much skill and learning, and beautifully illustrated from
drawings by Mr. Gibson, in Mrs. Strutt’s work above referred to;
by Mrs. H. Tighe ; D’Israeli’s ‘ Curiosities of Literature;’ Clarke’s
‘ Travels,’ etc.

The Hemp, Cannabis sativa, is an equally interesting and im-
portant plant. If you do not know it, you may probably find it at
the very first search growing on a heap of cinder-ashes. In such a
spot it is pretty sure to be found in the garden of a person who
keeps cage birds; and the common canary, a most elegant grass,
with perhaps the flax and the rape, are likely to be its companions,
You may do well to sow a few seeds of hemp in any sunny spot.
They will make a tuft of elegant herbage, and when they ripen their
seeds, they will be visited by the tomtits and other small birds, who
will perform some strange antics in their endeavours to obtain the
seed, the plant being so pliant that they cannot obtain a good foot-
hold upon it.

The hemp is famed more especially for its fibre, from which the
greater part of all the cordage used in this country is derived. Dr.
Deakin says :—Throughout the whole of Italy, and in most of the
southern provinces of France, and in almost every part of Germany,
the cultivator of the soil allots a certain portion of his land to the
growth of the hemp; and the industrious
women, both young and old, especially in
the rural districts of Italy, may be seen,
while tending their flocks and herds,
busily engaged spinning it in the ancient
manner, with the distaff, which is gene-
rally made of a portion of the stem of
the bamboo; they afterwards wind the
thread upon bobbins, and weave it into
yarious fabrics for domestic use; but it is
chiefly in the northern parts of Russia,
even as far north as Archangel, that the
hemp is grown as an article for exporta-
tion, and it is from that country that our
manufactories obtain the greater portion
of their supplies.

The plant grows from six to twelve
feet high, and is more or less branched,
terminating in a bunch of greenish flowers.
The leaves are large, divided into five to
eight narrow lanceolate serrated segments
in a palmated manner; and when the <
plant is grown separated from others, it THE ITALIAN DISTAF:
has a pretty, graceful appearance. When
the plants have attained their full growth, they are pulled up, and
the roots chopped off, and then spread out to dry in the sun; when
they are sufficiently dry they are beaten so as to separate from the
stem the leaves and smaller branches; the stems are then immersed

June,

172 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

in pools or streams of water, until they undergo a species of putre-
faction, and when large quantities are going through this process,
the stench arising from them is extremely offensive. By being thus
steeped in water, the glutinous matter of the plant is destroyed,
and the fibre is in a great
measure liberated. They are
then taken out of the water,
and spread out to dry and
bleach in the sun. The whole,
except the woody fibre, is
now become very brittle ; it
is then beaten and chopped
between stout pieces of wood
arranged for the purpose,
and the fibre separated from
the rest of the vegetable
matter. It is then combed,
and tied up into convenient-
sized bundles for home use
or sale.

The roots of the hemp
are very liable to be attacked
by one of the species of that
curious tribe of parasitical LEAF OF THE HEMP.
plants the Orabanche, and,
from its stem being branched, it is called the O. ramosa. It grows
from six to twelve inches high, is of a pale yellowish brown colour,
and bears a few scattered brown membranous scales in the place of
leaves; its flowers are numerous, of a pale purplish colour. An
ordinary sized plant bears about sixty-six capsules, and in each there
are about 1100 small, but very beautiful-looking seeds; so that one
plant alone furnishes no less a number than 72,600 seeds! each of
which is capable of producing a plant, and as the seeds of the
Orabanche are known to remain a ‘considerable time in the ground
without losing their vitality, the chances of their ultimate develop-
ment on the roots of the hemp are increased.

I have observed, in a field where the hemp has grown, the roots
very much infested with this plant, but still the plants of the hemp
on which it grew were apparently uninjured by it. The field was
sown with wheat, turnips, and other crops, I believe, five suc-
ceeding years; but nota plant of the Orobanche was to be found,
but hemp was again sown, and then there sprung up an abundance
of this pretty parasitical plant.

The most remarkable property of the hemp, however, is to be
found in the resin, which in hot climates is derived from its juices.
The intoxicating properties of this substance, which is known by
the terms bang, subjea, churras, haschisch, etc., etc., have in all pro-
bability been well known from the most ancient times by many
races of men. Herodotus relates the use of it by the Scythians
(3.c. 75), and it answers exactly to the description of the plant
which Homer makes Helen administer to Telemachus to make him

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 173

forget his troubles. In the Hast it is the baneful rival of the more
baneful opium, ard only little less of a curse to mankind.

The practice of chewing the leaves of this plant, to induce
intoxication, prevailed or existed in India in very early ages: hence
it was introduced into Persia, and about
six centuries ago (before the middle of
the thirteenth century of our era) this
pernicious and degrading custom was
adopted in Hgypt, but chiefly by persons
of the lower order, though several men
eminent in literature and religion, and
vast numbers of fakeers (or poor de-
votees), yielded to its tascinations, and
contended that it was lawful to the
Moos’lem. The habit is now very com-
mon among the lower orders in the me-
tropolis, and other towns of Hgypt.
The same author says: The prepara-
tion of hemp used for smoking generally
produces boisterous mirth. Few inha-
lations of its smoke, but the last very
copious, are usually taken from the
gozeh. After the emission of the last
draught from the mouth and nostrils,
commonly a fit of coughing, and often a
spitting of blood ensues, in consequence
of the lungs having been filled with the
smoke. Hhashe’sh is to be obtained
not only at some of the coffee-shops;
there are shops of a smaller and more
private description, solely appropriated
to the sale of this and other intoxicating
preparations; they are called mahh’-
shesh’ehs. It is sometimes amusing to
observe the ridiculous conduct, and to
listen to the conversation of the persons
who frequent these shops. They are
all of the lower order. The term OROBANCHE RAMOBA,
hhash’sha’sh, which signifies a smoker,
or an eater of hemp, is an appellation of obloquy. Noisy and
riotous people are often called hhash’sha’shee’n, which is the plural
of that appellation, and the origin of our word “ assassin ’’—a name
first applied to Arab warriors in Syria, in the time of the Crusades,
who made use of intoxicating and soporific drugs, in order to render
their enemies insensible.*

A preparation of hemp has been of late years introduced in
medical practice, it being found in many cases a better anodyne
than opium, and less injurious to the digestive system. A detailed
account of its effect on a sensitive Englishman, who partook of it

* Lane’s “ Modern Egyptians,” vol, ii. p. 32.
June.

U74 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

solely fcr the purpose of experiment, and to make the best report
possible of its effects, will be found in the “ Intellectual Observer,”
Vol. II. p. 435. For the first trustworthy suggestion of its
usefulness we were indebted to Dr. O’Shaughnessy, who made care-
ful observations of its effects on the natives of India. He says :—
When churrus, or natural hemp resin, is administered in moderate
doses, it produces increase of appetite and great mental cheerful-
ness, while in excess it causes a peculiar kind of delirium and cata-
lepsy. At two p.m., says the learned author, a grain of the resin
of hemp was given to a rheumatic patient ; at four p.m. he was very
talkative, sang, called loudly for an extra supply of food, and de-
clared himself in perfect health. At six p.m. he was asleep; at
eight p.m. he was found insensible, but breathing with perfect regu-
larity. His pulse and skin were natural, and the pupils freely con-
tracted on the approach of light. Happening by chance to lift up
the patient’s arm, the professional reader will judge of my astonish-
ment when I found it remained in the same posture in which I
placed it. It required but a very brief examination of the limbs to
find that by the influence of this narcotic the patient had been
thrown into the strangest and most extraordinary of all nervous
conditions, which so few have seen, and the existence of which so
many still discredit—the genuine catalepsy of the nosologist. We
raised him toa sitting posture, and placed his arms and limbs in
every imaginable attitude. A waxen figure could not be more pliant
or more stationary in each position, no matter how contrary to the
natural influence of the gravity on the part. To all impressions he
was almost insensible.

A NEW WAY OF GROWING GRAPES.

BY WILLIAM COLE,
Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex, W.

SH") N the papers on the “ Amateur’s Vinery,”’ which have
#| lately appeared from the pen of Mr. Trussler, ample
advice has been given on the construction, planting, and
management of permanent vineries, and I would like to
———— supplement those excellent papers with a brief descrip-
tion of a method by which most excellent crops of grapes may be
produced without a vinery. This system of grape growing, which
has been thoroughly tested at Ealing Park, appears to be especially
adapted to the requirements of amateurs, as the labour incidental
to the management of vines in pots, and the expense of establish-
ing a vinery, are alike avoided. Moreover, the smallest house likely
to be met with in the garden of an amateur may be devoted to
grape-vines, with a full assurance of obtaining a good crop, provided

the vines receive proper attention.
It is of no consequence whatever whether the house has a lean-to

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, LS

or a span roof; its length and width are of very little consequence,
but to afford the vines sufficient space to produce a good crop, the
rafters or sash bars should be not less than six feet in length. And
it may also be said that if more than eight or nine feet, there will
be a little waste of roof space. To enable me to describe the system
as clearly as possible, we will for the moment consider the case of
an amateur who has a lean-to house, five or six feet in width, and
with a roof six or eight feet in length. We will also suppose that
along the front of the house there is a stage, table, or platform, upon
which the plants in pots are stood, or on which a bed is made up
for cucumbers or melons. If the stage is formed with open lattice-
work, it will be needful to cover it with boards, slates, or flag-
stones, for it is intended to form a bed of soil upon the platform,
and unless this precaution is taken the soil will, it need hardly be
said, fall through. When this has been done, fix a rather stout
board about twelve inches wide on edge, and thirty inches from the
front wall if there are hot-water pipes; and not more than twelve
inches above the platform, a similar board must be fixed along the
front also, to keep the soil away from the pipes. The outer side of
the last mentioned board should be fixed an inch or so from the hot-
water pipes. When these have been properly fixed, cover the plat-
form with a thin layer of crocks or pieces of brick, broken up to
the size of a small hen’s egg, and over these put a thin layer of
partly decayed manure, or of strips of turf, to keep the soil in its
place. This needful preparation completed, proceed to form the bed
with good turfy loam and manure. ‘The best course is to break the
turfy loam up and then incorporate with it thoroughly decayed hot-
bed manure, or partly decayed horse droppings, in the proportion of
one part of manure to three parts of loam. Bone dust or crushed
bones may be added, but the cost is too great to justify their being
used in a border of a temporary character, such as the one we are
now considering. But all bones that may have been saved from the
kitchen should be broken up with a big hammer, and added to the
compost. The proportion of manure is larger than would be desir-
able for a permanent border, but as the vines will have to remain
one year only, more manure may be employed with advantage than
would be desirable in borders of a permanent character.

The most suitable vines for planting are those which were struck
from eyes rather late last spring, and that were cut back to within
one or two buds of the base at the winter pruning, and these if
planted out at once, and receive careful management, will commence
to grow rapidly, and by the end of the summer will have strong
rods capable of bearing a heavy crop of fruit the following season.
The vines should be put two feet apart, and receive a liberal appli-
eation of tepid water to well settle the soil about the roots. They
will also receive material assistance by the house being kept rather
close for the first ten days or so after they are planted; and to pre-
vent the temperature rising too high, and the foliage from being
scorched, a strip of canvas or a mat should be laid over the glass
during the hottest part of the day. After the period above men-
tioned, no shading must be employed, for it will then be possible to

June.

176 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

keep the temperature down by increased ventilation, and provided
the house is sufficiently ventilated, there is no danger of scorching.
The early part of May is undoubtedly the best time for planting,
but the most perfect success may be insured by planting in June,
provided vines more advanced in growth are selected. To speak
more plainly, they should now be about thirty inches or so in height,
instead of twelve inches, which is the proper height for those planted
earlier.

Until the end of August they should receive rather liberal sup-
plies of water, be syringed moderately once or twice a day, as the
weather may happen to be cool and moist, or hot and dry, and
after the month mentioned, the syringing must be withheld, and
the ventilators opened as widely as possible night and day to insure
the proper ripening of the canes. After the beginning of No-
vember, the ventilators may be closed in case of severe frosts, as
it is better for the vines not to be exposed to these. The pruning
may be done some time during the winter, and this consists in
shortening the rod back to the end of the rafter, if it has gone
beyond that point, and the removal of the lateral growth, which
must be cut off close to the cane. The soil must be main-
tained in a nice moist state throughout the winter, for, contrary to
the general opinion, vines suffer severely if the border is allowed to
become dust dry. The vines may be forced in the same manner as
those in pots, and may be started at any time after Christmas, but
amateurs will find it more advantageous to start them with a gentle
heat in March. From ten to fourteen bunches may be left upon
each vine, according to the length of the rod. When they com-
mence to grow freely, cover the surface with a layer of half-rotted
manure; and as soon as the berries begin to swell, supply alternately
with weak liquid manure until the grapes begin to colour, and then
discontinue its use, and supply them exclusively with clear water.
As soon as the crop is gathered, the vines should be pulled up and
destroyed, for they are no longer required, as better results are
obtained from vines that have been planted one year only.

To produce a crop annually, only one-half of the house must
be planted each year, unless there are two houses available for the
purpose. In the case of a span-roof house, one side may be
planted this year, and the other the next, and so on. There is no
loss of space in having two houses, for the house from which the
crop of grapes is gathered, say this summer, may be devoted to the
preparation of plants for the conservatory during the remaining
part of the autumn, to the protection of bedding plants during the
winter, and to the production of an early crop of strawberries
without fire-heat in the spring. By the time the strawberries are
gathered, then another batch of vines must be planted. The house
can also be devoted to the late summer and winter crops of cucum-
bers, if it is so desired.

It will be needful to strike a batch of eyes every season, and
these should be put in small pots, filled with light soil, and when
nicely rooted be shifted into six-inch pots. Until just before the
berries begin to colour, these should remain with the vines in bear-.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 177

ing, and then be removed to the house, newly planted. When
there is only one house, they must of necessity remain in that
house. Some attention and labour are necessary in carrying out the
system of grape growing here described, but the splendid crops that
may be obtained from very small houses will afford ample compen-
sation. A lean-to house twenty feet long will accommodate ten
vines, and from these a crop weighing from seventy to eighty pounds
may be obtained. A span-roof house of the same length will of
course accommodate double the number of vines.

The variety best adapted for this system of culture is the Black
Hamburgh, but if a few white grapes are required, two or three
vines of Buckland Sweetwater may also be planted. Healthy vines
may be obtained now at a very low rate, and by purchasing and
planting at once, a good crop may be had next summer. It is im-
portant to select those in a thrifty state, for if at all stunted they
will not make canes strong enough to produce good crops the
following season.

ROSES IN THE GREENHOUSE AND THE WINDOW.
BY J. E. SAUNDERS, ESQ.

peeeese HIS spring I have had sucha splendid display of roses

47] in my conservatory and drawing-room windows that
’ my friends have been somewhat astonished, and it has
uy (Ze been suggested that a few particulars of the means by
~ Which such satisfactory results have been obtained
would be interesting, and probably prove as useful to some of the
many readers of the Froran Wortp.

Amateurs who have an opportunity of seeing the gigantic bush
roses in pots, which Mr. Charles Turner, of the Royal Nurseries,
Slough, and one or two other trade growers exhibit in London and
one or two of the principal provincial shows, admire these triumphs
of cultural skill, and think that because they cannot produce speci-
mens of equal merit, they cannot enjoy the freshness and beauty of
roses grown in pots under glass. If they are told that the cultivation
of pot roses is really not difficult, they will refer you to the poor
half-starved pigmies which are usually staged by gardeners by the
side of these well-fed giants from the trade growers. As a
frequenter of some of the principal exhibitions, I know well enough
that not more than one gardener in twenty exhibits roses in really
first-class condition ; nevertheless, Iam prepared to assert that pot
roses may be grown by amateurs without any special difficulty. I
know not why gardeners fail, but I do know that there is no greater
danger of failing with them than there is with many other good
things. I might say much in advocacy of the pot culture of the
rose ; I might speak of the great beauty of a medium-sized plant,
furnished with six or eight superbly-developed flowers; I might
also descant on the extreme freshness and delicious fragrance of
flowers produced under glass; but I will leave that to the imagin-

June, 12

178 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ation of the reader, and at once proceed to explain the means by
which my conservatory has been made beautiful, and my drawing-
room redolent with perfume by the roses.

To enable me to do this in an intelligible manner, I must go
back three years—to the season of 1872. About the middle of the
summer of that year, I called upon a nurseryman who makes rose
growing somewhat of a speciality, to purchase a few plants of various
kinds, and amongst other things I bought one dozen of roses, nicely
established in six-inch pots. These cost twenty-four shillings per
dozen; and in the autumn following I obtained from the same
source two dozen plants lifted from the open quarters, These were
on their own roots, and cost twelve shillings per dozen. I thus had
a stock consisting of thirty-six plants, and comprising as many
varieties. Those purchased in the summer were transferred to pots
one size larger within a week or so of their being received, and were
then placed on a bed of coal ashes, upon which a portion of the stock
of bedders had been placed in the spring previous, and between the
pots was packed some partly decayed leaves, to prevent the moisture
being dried out of the soil too quickly. On the approach of winter
they were removed to a cold pit, and about Christmas were pruned.
They were furnished with from three to five shoots each, and these
were cut back—some to two and some to three buds each. It was
not considered desirable to leave the shoots longer than this because
of the risk, as in the case of roses out of doors, of the growth
being weak. Moreover, I was anxious to keep the shoots well
down.

The majority of gardeners do not prune their pot roses low
enough, and in a few years they, owing to the weakness of the
shoots, have a thin appearance, and produce miserably poor flowers.
About the middle of February they were removed to a pit half
filled with leaves collected in the autumn, and the mean temperature
of the pit was 60°, until the young shoots were about three inches
long, and after arriving at that stage it was increased to 65°. These
produced from eight to twelve blooms each, of excellent quality,
and just as they commenced to expand they were removed to a con-
servatory. They were syringed once a day whilst in the pit, and
more blooms would have been borne by all the plants had not the
buds been thinned out at an early stage.

The plants lifted from the ground were put in six-inch pots and
placed in the cold pit with the first lot. These were pruned in the
last week of January, and allowed to remain in the pit until they
were coming into bloom. The flowers were not so abundant nor of
such good quality as those produced by the other batch of plants,
and this may be accounted for by their not being so well established;
but they made a very nice display, and as they formed a good suc-
cession to the others, were much appreciated. The following season
they bloomed superbly. Each autumn since I have bought a dozen
plants similar to those now being referred to. This has been done
to enable me to have a stock of plants of medium size for the draw-
ing-room, and also for the purpose of having young plants to take
the place of older specimens, as they grow out of shape or assume

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 179

an unhealthy appearance. Some few of the two sets first purchased
have been destroyed, but by far the largest proportion are now buxom
bushes, the largest quite thirty inches across, and in the course of
the spring have quite three dozen flowers.

Acting upon the advice given in the “* Amateur’s Rose Book,”
am particuiar in having the pot-roses well cared for during the
summer season. Roses appear to be most impatient of neglect, for
a few of my plants that were not well looked after in the summer of
1878, are a long way behind the best of those which had proper
attention. As they go out of bloom, they are placed in a cold pit
for a fortnight or so, and then removed to a shady position out of
doors for the summer season. The pots are, as in the first season,
stood upon coal ashes to prevent the worms finding their way into
the pots, or through the holes in the bottom. The supplies of water
are fairly liberal during the summer season, and any shoots that
make a too rapid progress, and are likely to rob their weaker neigh-
bours of their fair share of nourishment, are cut back to about twelve
inches when eighteen inches in height. Early in September, the general
repotting takes place ; each plant is turned out of its pot, the ball
of soil is reduced, and it is returned to another pot, carefully drained,
perfectly clean, and either of the same size or one size larger, ac-
cording to the necessity of the plant. A compost, formed by mixing
together fibrous loam and well decayed manure in the proportion of
four parts of the former to one of the latter is used. They are
returned to their summer quarters, and supplied less freely with
‘water than during the summer season. In November, the whole
stock is removed to a cold pit, and the pruning is done early in
January. A few of the most vigorous plants are started, in the
manner already described, to bloom early, and the others are allowed
to produce their bloom with no more assistance than that afforded
‘by the cold pit; and ’as the latter bloom even more satisfactorily,
amateurs must not force any portion of the stock.

With the assistance of the book mentioned above, those who
have plenty of time on their hands may, after purchasing a few
plants to begin with, maintain the stock by means of cuttings, which
do not appear to be so very difficult to strike. I have but little time
to spare for garden work ; and as the price of established varieties
both in and out of pots is, comparatively speaking, so low, I prefer
to purchase the few plants required.

The following are especial favourites with me and my friends,
and I do not think they will fail in pleasing any one fond of roses,
namely :—

Hybrid Perpetuals: Alfred Colomb, Anna Alexief, Baroness
Rothschild, Beauty of Waltham, Oharles Lefebvre, Dr. Andry, Duke
of Edinburgh, Etienne Levet, General Jacqueminot, Madile. Bugenie
Verdier, Marie Baumann, Marquis de Castellane, Victor Verdier.
Hybrid China: Charles Lawson. Noisette: Celine Vorestier. Tea-
scented: Catherine Mermet, Madame Camille, Marie Sisley, and
President.

June.

180 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

YOUNG CARROTS ALL THE YEAR ROUND.

BY A KENTISH GARDENER.

2710 UNG carrots are not usually considered delicacies during

#| May and the two following months, for they are then
plentiful everywhere ; for in these three months nothing
1s more easy than to place upon the table a dish of
young and tender carrots. To have them in excellent
condition during the other nine months, when they are looked upon
as delicacies, is quite another matter; and, although it is not a
difficult task, some knowledge of the proper dates for making the
sowings is essential.

The usual March and April sowings for summer use in a young
state, and for storing for use during the winter in soups, etc., have
of course, been already made, and we have now to consider the next
sowing, from which a supply of young roots may be had late in the
autumn. Now the proper time for making this sowing is about the
middle of July. The seed-bed should be on a warm south or south-
west border, where the soil is light and rich. A space five feet wide
and eight feet long would suffice for a large family. The seed should
be sown broadcast, for the object is not to obtain a few heavy roots,
but large numbers of small ones. If the seed is sown thinly, and
when well up thinned out two inches apart each way, there is plenty
of space to grow roots as thick as a man’s middle finger, which is as
large as carrots are wanted for the table. At this season of the year
it is the better plan to water the ground before the seed is sown,
and then cover the seed with fine moist soil. Ifthe weather is dull
it will not need shading; but as shading is far better than continual
watering, which hardens the surface, it is always best to lay upon
the bed a few green branches, to break the force of the sun’s rays ;
this saves much labour in watering, and the seed comes up sooner,
because the shading helps to keep the seed uniformly moist. I may
remark here, once for all, that slugs are particularly fond of this
esculent, therefore a sharp eye must be given to all crops in all their
stages of growth. When sown in the open ground, a mixture of
soot and lime scattered thinly over the bed and round its sides and
ends is the best preventive. When grown in cold pits or frames,
the same application is serviceable, but in this case the surest cure
is to trap them by the aid of pieces of cut carrot, or lettuce, or
cabbage leaves. If these are distributed about the pit or frame,
they are sure to take up their quarters amongst them, when they
can be caught and killed at once.

It is not possible to keep those sown at the end of July in good
condition in the open ground after the end of October, or, at latest,
the end of November. But much in this respect will depend upon
the nature of the soil. If light and sandy, they will keep longer; if
stiff and cold, the slugs will be sure to disfigure them, unless very
carefully attended to. To guard against a mishap, it is best to sow
again in a pit or frame that occupies a south position on the first of
September. This crop will furnish nice roots in mild winters from

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, 181

the middle of December and onwards, according to the nature of the
weather. I prefer to grow this crop in a frame, to which, if it 1s
required, I can add a lining of hot fermenting materials about the
end of October. :

The September-sown crop must be much thinner than any of the
others; for having to grow through the shortest and darkest days of
the year, there must be more room for the air to circulate between
them. Of air, indeed, they must have a good quantity both night
and day when it is mild, which it often is up to Christmas. The
little artificial heat which they receive will of course admit of more
air being given ; at the same time, judgment in admitting it in rough
* stormy weather is of course necessary, especially at night, for some-
times the air will betoo cold. Damp ina pit or frame is a great enemy to
this crop, and they grow best at that season when kept moderately dry.

A few years ago, I thought it possible to dispense with the aid of
artificial heat for this crop, so I sowed in a cold frame in the middle
of August, thinking I could grow and keep the crop on for winter
use. This I accomplished; but there were complaints that they
were rather hard, and inferior to those slightly forced as explained
above. Some may perhaps say that they can secure young carrots
up to Christmas in the open ground, if the weather continues open
and miid up to that time. I admit they can, for I can, even here,
in this stubborn soil; but, as I have just shown, they were not con-
sidered equal in flavour to those grown under glass of a later sowing.
Another sowing is made on a gentle bottom-heat about the middle
of October ; these will require the protection of a frame all the
winter, to be kept secure from frost and damp, and at the end of Feb-
ruary the frame should haveall round ita good stout lining of stable
manure and leaves, which will warm the soil, and start them into
active growth about the middle of March. The end of February is
early enough to put the lining to the frame, as they must not be
started into growth until the season admits of an abundance of fresh
air being given, and that does not occur before the middle of March.

A sowing is also made again about the end of February, ina pit or
frame on a slight bottom-heat. These will soon be up, and growing
away vigorously, and will come in admirably after the October-sown
ones are becoming too large. They are not usually considered
delicate enough if they get larger than the middle finger. Where
there is a warm south border in a light soil, a small bed may be
sown at the end of February in the open ground ; but in heavy soils
or cold positions, nothing is gained in the average of seasons by
sowing so early. For such positions the middle of March is soon
enough, which is the time I sow here for the first crop in the open
ground. I sow another small piece again about the beginning of
June, which is all that is required for the season, because if there
should be a gap between those sown in March and those sown in
June, a few dishes from the general crop, which is sown here in the
middle ef April, will fill it up.

This brings me back to my starting-point, for the next sowing
must take place, as I stated at the beginning of this paper, about
the middle of July.

June.

1g2 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN QUIDE.

A CHEAP SHADING FOR CONSERVATORIES AND ©
FERNERIES.

BY W. BRADBURY.

=a HE cost of providing blinds of canvas, tiffany, or other
4 ky4f) material, for the conservatory, the greenhouse, and the
fernery, is to many amateurs a serious matter, I shall
probably be doing good service by giving publicity to a
j ‘, plan of screening the occupants of these structures from
the sun without the aid of blinds of any kind. Blinds are not only
costly, but they have a rather unsightly appearance; and in the case
of conservatories of an ornamental character, there is some difficulty
in covering the roof with them. But by the plan I am about to
describe, there is no difficulty in screening the plants from the in-
jurious effects of brilliant sunshine, and the cost of materials for a
rather large structure is so trifling as to be hardly worth con-
sidering.
Instead of moveable blinds, the glass is dotted with a mixture of
Brunswick green (a pigment which may be obtained at any oilshop)
and milk. There are two colours, known as light and dark green
respectively, and to obtain the proper shade these should be mixed
together in the proportion of two parts of light to one part of dark
green. ‘That is to say, if one and a-half pounds are required, the
pound should consist of light green, and the half-pound of dark
green. Well mix the two shades, and then add the milk. To in+
sure its mixing properly, the milk must be added very slowly, and
be well mixed with the pigment as it is poured in. The best course
.is, perhaps, to add just sufficient milk to work it into a thick paste,
and then, after the mixing has been well done, add as much milk
as will reduce it to the consistency of ordinary paint or of cream,
In applying this mixture to the outside of the glass, use a brush
that is worn very little, and put it on rather thinly. As fast as a
few panes are covered, dabble it lightly with the end of the brash to
give it a stippled appearance. When so applied, the rains will not
wash it off; but at the end of the summer, when shading is no
longer required, and, indeed, at any other time if it is so desired, it
may be readily removed with hot water and a scrubbing-brush.
Hitherto, mixtures of white lead, whitening, and of lime, have been
used for smearing over the glass in cases where it was not desired to
use blinds; but these mixtures are all more or less objectionable,
because of the unsightly appearance the structures have from the
outside and the painful effect the white light has upon the eyes from
the inside. For ferneries it is especially adapted, as it not only
protects the plants from the sun, but it also enhances their attrac-
tions by imparting a richer and more brilliant green colour to the
fronds. To other structures it also imparts a very cool and refresh-
ang appearance. It must not be left on the glass late in the

autumn, for the plants will then require all the light it is possible
for them to receive.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, 183

NOTES ON CAMPANULAS.

BY JOHN BURLEY, F.2.H.S.,
Hereford Road Nursery, Bayswater, W.

"3 LD-FASHIONED hardy flowers once more coming to
| the front, I should like to say a word or two in reference
to the Campanulas, for they may be grown in the most
satisfactory manner possible, and when once planted in
~. Ordinary borders the majority of them will take care of
themselves. They are, in fact, well adapted for the gardener or the
amateur who has no convenience for the cultivation of large numbers
of tender bedding plants. They should not be grown to the exclu-
sion of other good things, but, on the contrary, be associated with
herbaceous phloxes, pyrethrums, and other hardy flowers of a showy
character.
Of the Campanulas there are large-growing kinds, such as C.
pyramidalis, that attain quite five feet in height; and again, there
is the carpatica and pumila varieties, and others like them, that
grow quite close to the ground. Then, again, there are the choice
Alpine kinds, with their neat and pretty blossoms; many of them
being found high up in the Swiss mountains, and on ledges and
fissures of rock, where scarcely any soil is to be seen. In such
places their tiny roots dive down, clinging to the rock by the way
until they find the nourishment that is sufficient to give life to the
plant at all seasons. The border varieties make a glorious show for
months in the flower-garden, and when allowed to grow in one place
year after year, they form large masses of thick herbage. When in
flower, there is no class of plants that will surpass them in gaiety
and general effect. Amongst the dwarf kinds there is none better
than C.carpatica for general effect. All that need be done to
secure a dwarf gay mass of flowers, either in the geometrical garden
or in the ordinary flower border, is to plant this Campanula, and
leave it to take care of itself; it will soon spread, and when the
season for its blooming comes round, it will be sure to meet with
its admirers. There are three colours of this kind: C. carpatica
itself is blue; C. carpatica. alba, white; and C. carpatica bicolor,
blue and white, the colours very nicely blended, and very attractive.
C. Barrellieri is‘also a dwarf variety with pretty blue blossoms ;
this kind is admirably adapted for the rockery, as its trailing habit
is nicely seen when shooting here and there over a projecting stone,
or hanging down over a hollow place. It is quite at home when
planted in a sheltered nook of the rockery, and no fear need be
entertained of its being destroyed in a hard winter, if the hollow it
is growing in is filled up with dry leaves. The soil best adapted
for it is a mixture of sandy loam and leaf-mould. OC. alpina is
another fine dwarf kind with purplish blue flowers, which makes a
good plan, for the second row in a flower border. C. garganica is a
beautiful kind for the rockery ; it produces its flowers in pendent
clusters the plant is literally loaded with them when in bloom; the

June,

184 _ THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

colour is a clear sky-blue. ©. fragilis is another pendent variety
with dark blue flowers, but rather tender; it makes an excellent
kind for the conservatory rockery. Amongst ordinary border kinds,
the varieties of C. glomerata will be found the most useful for
general effect; they are also compact in their growth, averaging
about eighteen inches; there is also a variety of colours amongst
them, C. glomerata itself being puce; C. q. alba, white; O. g. pur-
purea, purple; C. g. cerulea, sky-blue. They are all exceedingly
free bloomers; in fact, when they are fully out, they are one
mass of flower from stem to crown. CO. grandiflora is another
free-blooming kind, about two feet in height, with very showy
blue flowers ; there is a white variety of this, called C. grandiflora
alba, that is well worth growing for the sake of a change of colour.
C. macrantha is a distinct free-blooming species, producing stout stalks,
which are abundantly furnished with drooping puce-coloured blos-
soms; it grows about two feet high. C. media flore-pleno and C.
media alba flore-pleno are double-flowered varieties of the old
“‘ Canterbury bells,’’ the first being blue, the second white ; they are
both noble objects in any border, as they flower freely and require
but little trouble. As they are biennials, a few fresh plants should
be raised every year. C. ranunculoides is another fine effective
kind with showy purple flowers produced on spikes about eighteen
inches in height. The blue and white varieties of C. persicifolia
should be found in every garden where there is plenty of border-
space, as they grow freely and flower abundantly, continuing in
flower as long, or even longer, than most other kinds. The double
blue form known as ©. persicifolia flore-pleno, and the double white
variety, C. persicifolia alba flore-pleno and C. persicifolia coronata
alba, and ditto ewrulea, I can especially recommend, for when in full
bloom they are as showy as any plants in the garden. They are all
about one height, viz., two feet, just a nice size for beds and ordinary
borders. The varieties of C. pyramidalis, both white and blue,
are well known by their flower spikes often reaching five or six
feet in length, forming fine conspicuous objects in wide borders,
and for planting here and there to shoot up amongst belts of ever-
greens. There are many other kinds of Campanulas that I could
mention that deserve especial notice, such as C. pumila and pumila
alba, with bright green foliage, and their charming masses of blue
and white bells; but space will not permit of a lengthy description
of every species known to be good. Suffice it to say, in conclusion,
that a more beautiful class of hardy plants is not to be found, or
me that will more amply repay any care or trouble bestowed upon
them.

Seeds of several of these may be obtained at some of the large
seed houses for a mere trifle, and if sown at once, and the seed-
lings transplanted when large enough, they will bloom freely next
year.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 185

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR JUNE.

The sweet season that bud and bloom forth brings,
With green hath clad the hills and eke the vale ;
The nightingale with feathers new she sings ;
The turtle to her mate hath told her tale.
Summer is come, for every spray now springs,
The hart hath hung his old head on the pale,
The buck in brake his winter’s coat he flings,
The fishes fleet with new-repaired scale ;
The adder all her slough away she flings,
The swift swallow pursues the flies small, “
The busy bee her honey now she wings,
Winter is worn that was the flower's bale.
And thus I see, among those pleasant things,
Each care decays, and yet my sorrow springs.
Hxgnzy Howarp, Hart or Surrky.

ma\CHIMENES need help from liquid manure, to prolong their beauty, and
fi} develop the foliage and flowers fully.

Baxsams should never be allowed to get pot-bound ; it throws them
into bloom prematurely, and stops all growth. ‘Therefore, as fast as
they fill their pots with roots, shift on in rich light soil.

Beppers to have as little water as possible. Pay scrupulous attention to pinch-
ing and pegging as required, as on this will depend the beauty of the display as
the plants come into full bloom. In pegging trailing plants secure first a supply
of shoots regularly over the bed.

Borper Burges may be taken up as soon as the leaves are withered, and to
ensure perfect ripening lay them in clumps as taken up, without damage to the
roots, in a shady place, with a sprinkling of earth over them. The practice of
laying Hyacinths and Tulips in a broiling sun is one of the causes why so many are
worthless the next season.

Ce.ery to have an abundant supply of water if the ground/is dry, as slow growth
is ruin to it, and may cause half the crop to bolt. Continue to plant out, using
abundance of rotten dung well worked into the soil of the trenches.

CurysantHemums of the pompone class, for beds, will do better, and occasion
less trouble, if planted out in a piece of manured loam. All they will require will
be occasional topping, and in October they will lift well.

CoNnSERVATORY AND Stove CLimBERs require much attention now. A moderate
freedom of growth must be allowed, but an occasional thinning, regulating, and
stopping are needful now.

CucumBers require an abundance of water, both over the foliage and at the
root. Put a few cans of water in the pit or in a warm house early in the day, to
have it warm and soft for use in the afternoon, then use it and shut up.

Dauttas to be tied up betimes, or sudden gusts of wind will tear away the best
branches from the base. On hot dry soils mulching is needful, and will prevent
need of watering.

Fruir Garpen.—Tie in espaliers at once, before the shoots become firm; use
the engine smartly to wall trees and bushes ; nail in the wood to be kept on wall
trees, and remove, but not too much at a time, all superfluous wood. Wall trees
attended to now will have time to ripen their wood; if neglected much longer, it
will be too late to do justice to them.

Fvousras in full growth will require abundance of water, and once a week
liquid manure. Fuchsias in the open ground are generally disfigured with a super-
abundance of sticks, whereas, in a good turfy soil, with a moderate amount’ of
rotten dung, they ought to need but little artificial support, and a certain easy

drooping habit is proper to their character.

GREENHOUSE AND ConsgRvATORY Pianvs require special attention now. Turn
out for the summer those that require to be in the open air for the completion of
their growth and the ripening of their wood. Take care in all cases to guard
against worms finding entrance to the pots, and top-dress at once any that
require it,

June,

186 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

HERBACEovs Pxants out of flower may now be propagated from cuttings. These
should be put in a cold frame, in a mixture of sand and loam, and kept shaded. It
is important to secure plenty of such things as Alyssum saxatile, double Wall-
flowers, Iberis corifolia, and I. sempervirens, Aubrietia purpurea, Dielytra spectabilis,
Salvia chameedrifolia, etc.

Kircuen Garpen.—Stake runner beans. Sow lettuce; tie a few at a time
for immediate use. Sow parsley, endive, and turnips.

LeeExs to be transplanted from the seed-bed to very rich ground, ard to be
earthed up as they grow, to blanch the neck of the bulb. The frequent use of
sewage water will swell them to a great size, and with improved quality.

Menons to be stopped and trained regularly. Therule is for the female blossoms
to be impregnated at midday when quite dry.

OxcHarp House Trees require very little attention now beyond abundant
watering, and the use of liquid manure of a moderate degree of strength. No more
pinching to be done, Shoots badly placed may be removed now without fear of
causing the buds at the base to break.

Pines must have an abundant atmospheric moisture to prevent exhaustion by
this hot bright weather. Shut up early, and syringe and water the floor of the
house early every morning. Use as little shade as possible to fruiting plants.

RuopopEnprons, Katmras, AND ANDROMEDAS may now be layered for increase ;
it is the simplest and surest method of propagation, though slow ; nevertheless,
they are always better on their own roots than grafted, and though many kinds sow
themselves in plenty, and produce thickets of seedlings if allowed, there is no depen-
dence to be placed on them for character, when at last they come into bloom.

Rosrs.—Gardens newly made may be furnished with Roses now as well as at
any time of the year. The nurseries supply dwarf plants in small pots at a cheap
rate, and these turned out with care, in ground well dug, and liberally manured,
will grow with vigour, and bloom well in the autumn. In forming a plantation
of dwarf Roses, we would as soon plant in May or June as at any time of the year.

Sorr-woopEp Pxants, such as Cinerarias, herbaceous Calceolarias, Chinese
Primulas, Pansies, Pyrethrums, etc., should be raised from seed now in quantity.
If Primulas were sown in April for early bloom, it will be as well to sow again
for a successional batch. Soft-wooded plants rarely do any good if grown slowly ;
they need‘abundant nourishment, and if kept stout and strong rarely suffer from
vermin. It is the bad practice of starving seedlings in the seed-pans that creates
the principal trouble of getting them clean afterwards.

Sow lettuce for succession, broad beans, wrinkled marrow, Emperor and
Advancer peas, radishes, scarlet runners, turnips, Early York and Barr’s Dwarf
cabbage, a few rosette coleworts, and Walcheren broccoli.

Stove Pirants.—Take cuttings of Euphorbias, and let them dry before inserting
in sand. Start another batch of Gesneras. Remove to a cooler atmosphere most of
the best subjects that are now in flower. Keep a moist atmosphere among soft-
wooded plants of all kinds, and especially Begonias and Caladiums ; in fact, water
must be used in abundance about floors and walls.

TomatoEs will bear more abundantly, and occasion less trouble, if constantly
stopped before the fruit. Give them plenty of water, and mulch the surface with
rotten dung.

TRiToMA UvARIA and varieties require abundance of water now, especially if in
pots. Liliums the same; when throwing up their spikes they can scarcely have
too much.

Vines that have ripened their fruit must be carefully brought into a resting
condition by gradually withholding water and exposing the wood to the weather
night and day except during rain. Crops ripening to have the help of fire-heat in
case of a prolonged term of cloudy or cold weather, as any delay in ripening will
bring on mildew. Where the grapes are just stoning, attention should be paid for
the last time to thinning and tying in, but do not cut away every apparently super-
fluous shoot ; very often a few random growths help to sustain the vigour of a vine,
and sre in fact the signs of vigour ; but of course these should not overlap the old
wood, or shade the leaves that have bunches to take care of, Where ripe grapes
are to hang, keep the house dry; and to prevent red spider, paint some tiles with
sulphur and lay about in the full sun.

Winter GREENns.—Plant, during showery weather, broccoli, Brusseis sprouts,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 187

collards, cauliflowers, endive, celery, cabbages, green kale, savoys, and whatever
else is needed to supply the table during autumn and winter, the grand point being
to secure enough of each, and somewhat of a reserve of plants to fill up vacancies,
and to plant odd plots. Sow now spinach, turnips, lettuce, horn carrot, radishes.

NEW BOOKS.

Tue Narcissus; 17s History anp Currurse. By F. W. Bursice (Reeve
& Co.).—Messrs. Reeve promise a series of elaborate monographs of interesting
plants, and the present volume may be regarded as an example of them. Itisa
handseme large octayo, containing forty-eight coloured plates of narcissi, with
chapters on the history, cultivation, classification, and garden uses of these flowers.
It is an admirable piece of work, that entitles Mr. Burbidge to the hearty thanks
of all lovers of hardy plants, and, though it is cast in a somewhat “ popular” model,
it will be of use to the scientific botanist also, for the drawings of structure are
carefully made, and the coloured figures serve as a guide wherein the daffodils are
always in flower. As there are about a hundred and thirty species and varieties of
narcissi in cultivation, such a work as this is of much greater importance than would
be supposed by those who know of only two or three kinds of these flowers.

Tux Prxetum. By Georcx Gorpon (Bohn),—This is a new and improved
edition of a work we recommended to our readers in the FLoraL Wortp for Novem-
ber 1858. Since that time many new species and varieties of coniferous trees have
been introduced to cultivation, and the taste for such things has not only spread,
but improved. The “ Pinetum,” as a department of the garden, is regarded with less
importance than formerly, for we have learnt to use these noble trees in a better
manner than in forming sepulchral groves. Now we see them spreading their arms
grandly and gracefully on the lawn, or, in their more rigid and fastigiate forms,
giving a high tone to the decorations of the terrace, or, better still, as at Dropmore,
giving distinct features to the woods. Gordon’s “ Pinetum” has been carefully
revised and enlarged, and is the most useful book of its class, not forgetting the
larger undertaking of the Messrs. Lawson. _ It is, however, in its present form, not
only a complete catalogue of conifers, that collectors and cultivators may consult
with advantage, but it is a book for the merchant and the traveller, for in it will be
found a list of all the known names of coniferons trees, in all known languages,
carefully compiled by the publisher, Mr. Henry Bohn, who is one of the most
learned and tasteful of amateur horticulturists.

Herepiry anp Hyerimism. By E. W. Cox, 8.L. (Longmans).—In this neat
octayo volume Serjeant Cox proposes to explain the phenomena of heredity and
hybridism by the supposition of a dual germ. As distinguished from the aura
theory, this may be called the duplex theory, and has a better claim on our
attention, both because it is apparently seasoned with common sense in the first
instance, and is full of power when employed to explain and illustrate the transmission
of special parental characteristics. The classical reader will not need to be reminded
that in some sense it is a reproduction of the philosophy of the grand old Stagyrite-

Les Axsres Froirrers A Brancurs Renversees. Par M. Dolivot (Dupont,
1, Rue des Pretres, Grenoble).—A very pretty, ingenious, and original treatise on
fruit culture, the main object of which is to teach the mysterious art of reverse
training. It is copiously illustrated with examples, and will afford abundant enter
tainment to amateur pomologists who have made some progress in the most refined
manipulations of pinching, pruning, and training fruit trees.

TRANSACTIONS OF THE MassAcnuserts HorticutturaL SocreTy, For THE
year 1874, Part II. (Tolman and White, 221, Washington Street, Boston).—We
have to thank our good friends on the other side for this continuation of the Massa-
chusetts Society’s T'ransactions. We dare not consume space in criticising it, but
give it a hearty welcome, not only for its valuable contents, but because it suggests
to the Britishers that while they talk much about horticulture, they do not keep
pace with their transatlantic cousins in the adoption of measures for its promotion.
The most important papers in this issue are the reports of the committees on fruits,

June,

188 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

plants, flowers, ornamental gardening, and insects that come within the category of
the enemies of horticulture,

Tue Hanpy Boox or Brees. By A. Perrigrew (Blackwood & Sons).—Here is
a second edition of the best bee book extant, and it is purged of certain strange
Notions on matters physiological that we thought objectionable in the first edition,
although they did not interfere with Mr. Pettigrew’s serious task of simplifying
apiarian practice, and making it thoroughly profitable. Tlose who wish to enjoy
bee-keeping and also make it pay should quickly secure this neat little volume,
which is as entertaining as it is useful.

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

wares OYAL BOTANIC SOCIETY’S SECOND EXHIBITION OF SPRING
\ A r) FLOWERS, on April 28, was attended with an unusual degree of suc-
y XD cess, for the weather was most delightful; and the display of spring
as flowers one of the best ever seen in the metropolis for many years past.

The azaleas were fresh and well-flowered, the rcses in pots superb, the
rhododendrons solid with bloom, and the early-flowering stove and greenhouse
plants of a higher order of excellence than is usual at exhibitions held so early in
the season. The prizes offered by the Metropolitan Floral Society for auriculas
were competed for on this occasion, and a fair display of these singularly beautitul
flowers was the result. Mr. C. Turner, of the Royal Nurseries, Slough, was awarded
the principal prizes for roses in pots ; Messrs. H. Lane and Son, Great Berkhamp-
stead, received the first prize in the class for rhododendrons ; Mr. Ward, of Leyton,
was the principal exhibitor of stove and greenhouse plants ; and chief amongst the
exhibitors of auriculas and other florists’ Howers, was Mr. James, of Isleworth. New
plants from the nurseries of Mr. B. 8, Williams, Mr. W. Bull, and Messrs. J. Veitch
and Sons, formed a most attractive feature.

Tue Royat Horricutrurat Socrety’s Exursirion or AzAtEas AND Por
Roszs, on May 12, was an exhibition of these flowers in name only, for they were
practically unrepresented. There was one group of roses, and two or three lots of
azaleas, but-they were of the most inferior character, and not deserving of a moment’s
consideration. The only redeeming feature of the exhibition was that formed by the
collections of specimen hardy herbaceous plants from Messrs. W. Rollisson and Sons,
Tooting, Mr. R. Parker, Tooting, and Mr. R. Dean, Ealing. The collection of
eighteen, for which Messrs. Rollisson received the first prize, consisted of immense
specimens superbly flowered, and remarkable for their freshness. In the collection
were examples of Gentiana acaulis, G. verna, Phlox setacea, P. Nelsoni, Iberis corri-
folia, I. Garraxiana, Trillium grandiflorum, Primula cortusoides ameena, P. cortu-
soides lilacina, Dielytra spectabilis, and Iris Iberica. Mr. R. Parker, who was
second, had, amongst others, excellent specimens of Scilla nutans, 8. nutans rosea,
Trillium grandiflorum, Phlox setacea violacea, a fine dark variety ; P. frondosa, P.
divaricata, a distinct species attaining a height of about nine inches, and producing
a profusion of pale blue flowers, and Anemone nemorosa alba plena. Mr. R. Dean
was third, with a collection including large and well-flowered specimens of Aubrietia
Eyrei, a remarkably fine species, stronger in growth than other aubrietias in general
cultivation, and with large flowers of a rich purple colour, and Lithospermum pros-
tratum. Hardy herbaceous plants have been shown in remarkably good condition
at several exhibitions held this year, and the specimens staged have afforded ample
proofs of their adaptability to the requirements of those who have only a pit or
frame for the cultivation of plants in pots.

Messrs. JACKMAN AND Son’s Exuisirion oF CLEmAmIs, held in the gardens
of the Royal Botanic Society, from May Ist to 24th, was so well carried out, that it
may be fairly considered an event of considerable importance. Hitherto the capa-
bilities of the clematis for exhibition purposes have not been developed to the extent
they should be, mainly owing to but few cultivators knowing that they form most
magnificent specimens and produce their beautiful flowers so freely as to present a
wonderfully attractive appearance. This exhibition was therefore of importance,
aa it demonstrated the fine effect they are capable of producing in the exhibition

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 183

tent and in the conservatory, and also afforded examples of the best style of train-
ing for the two classes of specimens. The exhibition was held in the corridor on
the north side of the gardens, and comprised several hundred specimens, and innu-
merable plants of smaller size, which, as in the case of those of larger size, were
densely furnished with flowers. The varieties represented belonged chiefly to the
Patens, Florida, and Lanuginosa types, which bloom naturally during the spring
andsummer. Some of the autumn flowering varieties of the Jackmanni type were
represented, but, of necessity, they were not so effective as those belonging to the
other types mentioned.

Ture Wuitsun Exurpition inthe gardens of the Manchester Botanical and
Horticultural Society at Old Trafford has again proved a grand success, both finan-
cially and horticulturally. The numerous and exceedingly liberal prizes were
keenly contested by exhibitors from all parts of the United Kingdom, and one of
the largest and most complete exhibitions of the season was the result. The attend-
ance of visitors was, as usual, very large, especially on Whit-Monday, which is set
apart as a general holiday by the operatives in Manchester and the neighbouring
towns.

Tue GARDENERS’ Royat BeneyorENtT Institut1on.—The annual Report of
the Institution for 1874 which has been recently issued to subscribers, is of a satis-
factory character. There are, it appears, seventy-two persons who are enjoying the
benefits of the Institution. The income for 1874, including a balance of £387 9s. 1d.
from the previous year’s account, and the Barnett legacy of £1000, amounted to
£3,134 10s. 6d. Of this sum £720 6s. was derived from annual subscriptions,
£700 12s. 7d. from donations at the annual dinner, £55 3s. 6d. from advertise-
ments in the annual Report ; £264 14s. 9d. from dividends on stock, and £8 4s. 7d.
interest on the deposit account. The disbursements comprise £930 for pensions,
£361 15s. 10d. for management expenses, and £1,401 4s. for purchase of £1,500
Consols, leaving a balance to be carried forward of £441 9s. 8d. The total amount
of stock in the names of the trustees is £10,400 Three per Cent. Consols,

Cotcuicum or AuruMN Merapow Sarrnon.—Some of the varieties have
beautifully chequered flowers, and most of them are so floriferous a3 to cover the
ground with a sheet of blossom, and as the leaves do not appear till Spring, ata
little distance the effect is peculiar, there being nothing but colour. The natural
position in the economy of the flower garden for the Colchicum is the mixed flower
and shrubbery border, and the woodland walks, but its accommodating habits readily
admit of its utilization in flower beds, to prolong the decorative season. In beds of
dwarf plants, or where the Geraniums are not crowded together, the roots of the
Colchicum, lifted when at rest, may be planted, making with a common dibber holes
all over the flower bed, in each hole planting a Colchicum, and covering it with
soil. These roots will throw up large masses of Crocus-like blossoms just as the
summer flowers are dying off, and yield a most pleasing and distinct effect to the
summer decoration. Byzantium, with its rose-coloured flowers ; Variegatum, with
its beautifully chequered blossoms; and Autumnale, with its rose-purple flowers ;
and the purple, the variegated, and the pure white doubles, each with their dis-
tinctive character, may be intermingled or arranged separately in distinct beds.
Barr & Sugden’s Bulb Catalogue.

Messrs. Bourton anp Paut, the well-known horticultural builders, of the
Rose Lane Works, Norwich, have recently issued a new edition of their illustrated
catalogue of horticultural structures, heating apparatus, etc. It has been enlarged
considerably, and, from the number and excellency of the designs it contains, will
doubtless afford great assistance to those who contemplate the erection of plant or
fruit houses either of a plain or ornamental character.

Tur Cryprocamic Society or Scorzanp.—It is proposed to have, under the
auspices of the Society, an exhibition of Fungi and Cryptogamic plants every
year, the show to be held in various parts of Scotland in rotation. Arrangements
have been made for holding the show for this year at Perth, on the lst of October.

Axexanpra Pavace.—An International Fruit and Flower Show will be held at
the Alexandra Palace on the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th of September next.

Tue Raistnc or Crverartas FROM SEED has been brought to a wonderful
state of perfection by Mr. James, the able head gardener at Redlees, Isleworth,
who, by his labours, h»s shown that when the seed is saved from the first-class
varieties but few of the seedlings will produce flowers otherwise than of good

June,

190 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

quality. We had an opportunity of seeing Mr: James’s stock of seedlings when in
bloom, and although no weeding whatever -had been done, there was not a bad
flower amongst them. By far the largest proportion had flowers that quite sur-
passed in size, shape, substance, and colour, the best of the named varieties entered
in the catalogues, and the finest of the seedlings had flowers of extraordinary sub-
stance and fine form. The plants comprising this strain are remarkable for their
stocky habit and the large heads of bloom they are capable of producing. Mr.
James was awarded three First-class Certificates for seedlings exhibited at a recent
exhibition of the Royal Botanic Society.

OponToGLossuM Roxzxt, the newest of the Odontoglots, has this season flowered
superbly iu Mr. Day’s magnificent collection of orchids at Tottenham. In habit it
bears a resemblance to Odontoglossum phalenopsis, but it quite surpasses that
lovely species in the size and more perfect form of the flowers. The flowers are
quite four inches across, of the purest white, the base of the petals deep purple, and
the base of the lip bright golden yellow. Mr. Gedney considers it one of the finest
species of the genus to which it belongs, and one of the most to be desired, because
of the facility with which it can be grown.

Tae HoxtyHock DisEASE continues to bafile scientific men and cultivators.
Both are familiar with the little plague spot in which it begins, and of the devasta-
tion that follows,jbut neither know how to prevent it nor how effectually to save the
plants attacked. Itis easy to talk of “stamping it out,” but that means wholesale
destruction of valuable collections. The same fungus makes its appearance on the
common mallow, WZ. sylvestris, and tht musk mallow, WM. moschata. It occurs also
on Althea hirsuta, but less frequently. The grower of hollyhocks would do well to
root them out wherever they are to be found, for they are, without question, the
nurseries of hollyhock disease.

Merrat Guass.—In Silesia, says Wature, a new glass has been invented by
Herren Lubish and Reiderer, in Count Solm’s glass-works, Andreashutte, its
Klitschdorf, near Bunzlau. This glass, which the inventors call ‘ metal glass,” is
so hard, that when a pane lies on the ground and a leaden ball of forty grammes
weight falls upon it from an elevation of twelve feet, it receives not the slightest
impression ; nor is it in the least affected when dipped whilst red-hot into cold
water. Window panes, lamp cylinders, and other articles made from this metal
glass, can therefore almost be denoted as unbreakable.

Tur CuLTIVATION or THE RED CEDAR, Juniperus Virginiana, is being tried
on a considerable scale in Bavaria, North Germany, and other parts of the Conti-
nent. No other wood, except the still rarer J. bermudiana, has been found equal to
it in the manufacture of lead pencils, and as the consumption for that purpose is
very large, some of the makers have recommended their Governments to attempt
its cultivation. Faber, one of the largest manufacturers on the Continent, has
already planted upwards of 5000 trees on his own estate. In North Germany it has
been planted in the forests, and on the waste ground by the (side of the railways.
We have not heard of its being planted in this country tor commercial purposes, but
there is no doubt it would succeed very well, especially in the South. It will bear
the wind well, and flourish on the sea coast, and certainly deserves to be more gene-
rally planted than it is. :

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Name or Fern.—WV. B.—The fern of which we have received a frond,
is Adiantum macrophyllum. It requires the temperature of a stove for its
successful cultivation, and careful management is necessary in the production of good
specimens.

Prorrosz.— Rev. Arthur B., Pomeroy, Co. Tyrone.—The primrose sent is very
pretty, but it is distinct from the variety alluded to. It is well worth preserving
and increasing, for it will, doubtless, be useful for spring bedding, because of its
high colour.

GarvENErs’ Crus at Leeps.—TZ. D., Sheffizld.—There is a Gardeners’ Club at
Leeds, under the designation of the Professional Gardeners’ Friendly Benefit Society.
The contributions are 13s. per year, and the benefits are 10s. per week for

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, 191

twenty-six weeks, and 5s. per week as long as the sickness lasts. The secretary is
Mr. William Sunley, Spring Bank, Headingley, Leeds, from whom all information
may be obtained. .

Spring FLrowers.—An Farly Subscriber.—All the plants mentioned in your
letter may be found in the Catalogue of Perennials issued by Mr. T.S. Ware, Hale
Farm Nurseries, Tottenham. Mr. Ware also issues annually a Supplementary List
of Spring Flowers, which, as well as the General Catalogue, may be obtained on
application. The Italian Coltsfoot (Zussilago fragrans) is entered in Mr. Ware’s
Catalogue of Herbaceous Plants, and you will have no difficulty in obtaining a
stock. It grows as freely as the common Coltsfvot, and spreads very rapidly in all
directions. It should only be planted in semi-wild places, where its spreading is of
no great consequence,

Cacrr.— G. W. O.—We know of no good book exclusively devoted to these
plants. Epiphyllums, and others of similar character of growth, are grafted
very easily. A notch is cut in the side or at the top of the stock to receive the
base of the scion, and when the latter is properly fitted in its place, it is made
secure by means of bast. A little moss is wrapped round the wound, and the
stocks removed to a house intermediate between the greenhouse and stove. Until
a junction is effected, the soil must-be kept rather dry, but a comparatively moist
atmosphere is favourable to a junction being rapidly effected.

Runner Beans ror Late Suppries.—K. H.—A row of runner beans, sown
about the 10th of June, will be found of immense service in maintaining a supply
in the autumn, after those sown in May cease to be productive. Provided the
weather remains open, the June sown runners will continue to bear until quite the
end of October, and will be of great value, as there will then be a 8carcity of the
choicer vegetables,

Pranting WINTER GREENS.—Amateur.—Breadths of winter greens of all
kinds should be put out as fast as the ground can be made ready for them. It is
well to bear in mind that unless these things have a long season of growth, they do
not attain their full size, and in consequence the produce is not so large as it other-
wise would be. Larly planting is of especial importance in the case of Brussels
sprouts. It is good practice in planting cabbages and winter greens to press the
foot along by the side of the line, and then pour water along the shallow trench
formed by the foot. When this is dcne, and the plants put out immediately after
the water has soaked away, the soil about the roots will be in a nice moist
state, and the plants will be placed under conditions more favourable to their
becoming quickly established than they otherwise would be. The work can also
be executed more expeditiously, as there will be no trouble from the dry soil
filling up the holes as fast as they are made, as sometimes happens when the soil
is in a dry powdery state when planted. Thirty inches apart each way is a
fair distance for winter greens of all kinds. If the ground is very rich, the rows
may be three feet apart, and the plants thirty inches apart in the row.

Weeps on Lawn.—Z. F. Semmercote, Darlington.—The lawn sand will turn
the grass brown if applied in sufficient quantities to destroy the weeds, and the
grass will remain brown and unsightly until the autumn. Dressings of phospho-
guano, at the rate of three anda half pounds to the square rod, will be the best, as
the guano will promote a luxuriant growth of the’grasses, and help them to outgrow
the weeds. Nitrate of soda, applied at the same rate, is also an excellent dressing
for lawns. When a lawn is overrun with plantains, daisies, and other weeds, the
dressing of either the guano or nitrate should be applied in hot weather, as it is
then more effectual in destroying them. It will turn the grass brown, but the
lawn will resume its proper colour after the first shower of rain. When used
simply for promoting a more luxuriant growth of grass and clover, the dressing
should be applied in dull showery weather, as it will then not affect the colour of
the grass at all.

New y-PnanteD Fruir Trers.—Z. #.—If the trees appear to be well estab-
lished, and are making new growth freely, they may be allowed to bear a moderate
crop this season. But on the other hand, if they have a starved appearance, and as
the season advances the shoots do not extend freely, it may be concluded that they
are not well established, and should not, therefore, be allowed to carry a crop.

Protecting Szeps rrom Birps.—A Subseriber.—A dressing of saltpetre will
not prevent birds eating the seeds ; but if they are dressed with red lead previous to

Junp,

192 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

sowing they will not touch them. There are at least a hundred different ways of
frightening birds from peas and other things, just as they are pushing through the
ground, but a kite’s tail has been found the most efficient. This, it need hardly be
said, is formed by tying strips of paper to a string, of sufficient length to reach from
one end of the bed or row to the other. It should not be put down until it is really
necessary, for if the birds become familiar with it before the crops come through
they take no notice whatever of it. It should/also be removed immediately it is no
longer required, especially if there are other crops requiring protection.

GREENHOUSE CLIMBER.—J. M. WM. K.—There is no climber that will bear sweet-
scented flowers throughout the winter in a greenhouse from which the frostis barely
kept. Lapageria rosea blooms throughout the summer and until quite late in the
autumn, and would do well in the position mentioned. Roses are not desirable,
because of their liability to the attacks of green-fly when grown under glass in
company with a mixed collection of plants. If you determine upon planting roses
we should advise you to select Princess Louise Victoria, which has delicate pink
flowers, or Climbing Victor Verdier, which has deep red flowers. Both are hybrid
perpetuals of good quality. The presence of ants in the greenhouse is not desirable.
They cover the foliage with dirt, and help to distribute vermin, with which any of
the plants may be infested, over the entire stock.

EXHIBITIONS TO BE HELD IN JUNE.

1 & 2,Royan Western Horricuntturat Socrery.—Axnual Exhibition at
Plymouth.

2.—Royat HorricurturaL Soctery. — Great Summer Show and Meeting of
Fruit, Floral, and Scientific Committees.

8.—Royat OxrorpsHIrRE HorricutturAL Socrery.—First Summer Show.

8 To 10.—Crystat Patace.—Great Dog Show.

9 To 11.—LrEps Horticutrurat Socrety.—Annual Exhibition.

16.—Burton-on-TRENT HorticuttuRAL Socrery.— Annual Exhibition.

16.—GuLascow anp West or Seornanp Horricutturat Socrery.—Summer
Exhibition.

16.—Royat Botanic Socrety.—Second Summer Show.

16 ro 18,—Yorxsnire GALa and Floral Fete, at York.

16.—Royat Horticutrurat Socirery.— Meeting of the Fruit, Floral, and
Scientific Committees,
: 17 & 18.—Ler anp Brackneatn Horticvurturan Sociery.—Annual Exhi-
ition.
; 23.—FarEHAM AND Soutu Hants Horricutturat Soctety.—Annual Erhi-
ition.
. 24.—Royau Horricstrurat Society or IRELAND. — Great Summer Exhi-
ition.

24 & 25—AtrExanprRA Patacr, Muswe1tt Hiw1t.—Great Rose Show.

25.—Exetrr.—Annual Rose Show.

26.—Crystat Patace.—Great Rose Show.

29.—West or Enctann Rose Socrery. — Annual Hxhibition in the Shire
Hall, Hereford.

30.—Royat Botanic Socrery.— Erhibition of Fruit and Cut Flowers.

30.—Maipstone Horrticutrurat Society AND Marmsrone Rose CLus.—
Annual Exhibition.

30.—WisBEacH HorticuLturat Society. — Annual Exhibition and Great
Rose Show.

30 & Juty 1—Spatprve Horricurtvat Socrery.— Annual Exhibition.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 193

TOWN ROSES.

(With Coloured Illustration of the new Hybrid Perpetual Rose Pavn Neyron. ie

==+S towns increase in number and enlarge in size, and horti-

i4) culture ministers in an ever-increasing degree to the.
material and xsthetic requirements of urban popula-
tions, town roses will acquire proportionately more and
more importance. It has been a constant source of
anxiety to us topromote the cultivation of roses in towns, and of
necessity, we are continually inquired of in respect to varieties
suitable to endure the hard conditions of town life. In thoroughly
close and smoky districts roses will not grow at ali, and there is an
end of the matter, as regards the central districts of towns, where-
in coal smoke permanently darkens the sky. But in the suburbs of
large towns and everywhere in towns not characterized by the pre-
valence of big chimneys, roses may be very satisfactorily grown,
provided the “amateur goes to work in the right way. Generous
treatment is of the first importance, and the real rosarian who must
have roses near him in the smoky town, will provide a respectable
rosehouse for the purpose. But the open air culture will always
interest a larger number than the culture under glass; and the
question will arise again and again, what are the sorts best adapted
for the town garder. As in part answering the question, we present
a coloured figure of the finest town-rose known. We must have
for the town garden roses of vigorous constitution, that flower
profusely, and are rarely afflicted ‘with mildew. The variety here
figured answers these requirements agreeably, and presents us with
an abundance of superb flowers of large size, full globular form,
with fine shell petals, the colour deep purplish red, the foliage bronzy
green, and peculiarly robust in character. Ifa rose is seen to have
weak foliage, it would be folly to plant it in a town garden. Hence
the rejection of very many light roses of good quality, such as
Madame Freeman and Madame ‘Lacharme, for they have weak foliage
and cannot resist the unfavourable atmospheric conditions to which,
in a town garden, they are necessarily exposed. It is really not
difficult for the rosarian, who has never had a town garden, to point
out such varieties of roses as would thrive in a town with fair treat-
ment.

The vigorous leafage of such as Jules Margottin, General Jac-
queminot, and Paul Neyron, indicate their suitability; but, of
course, in such 2 case, the a posteriori is better than the a priori
argument. The following we know to be good town roses, and we
beg of those correspondents, who have lately written to ask for
assistance in making a selection, to accept the subjoined list as the
best reply we can make to their inquiries :

BEST FIFTY ROSES FOR TOWN GARDENS.
Hyprip Parretuars.— Alfred Columb, Anna Alexieff, Baroness
Rothschild, Baronne Prevost, Beauty of Waltham, Boule de Neige,
July, 13

194 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Charles Lefebvre, Charles Rouillard, Doctor Andry, Duke of Edin-
burgh, Elizabeth Vigneron, Elie Morel, Frangois Treyve, General
Jacqueminot, General Lamartiniere, Gloire de Ducher, La France,
John Hopper, Madame Boll, Madame Charles Wood, Madame Clemence
Joigneaux, Madame de Cambacéres, Madame Domage, Madame Victor
Verdier, Paul Neyron, Pierre Notting, Prince. Camille de Rohan,
Princess of Wales, Vicomtesse Vezins, Victor Verdier.

Bourson Perreruat.—Catherine Guillot, Comtesse Barbantanne
L’ Avenir, Madame Charles Baltet, Michel Bonnet.

Boursoy.— Empress Hugenie, Prince Albert, Souvenir de la Mal-
maison.

Cutna.— Common China, Mrs. Bosanquet.

Moss.—Baronne de Wassenaer, Common, Luxembourg.

Hysrips or Caria anp Bovursons.—Charles Duval, Charles
Lawson, Cowpe d’ Hebe, Paul Ricaut, Paul Perras, Vivid.

Se: EL,

ROSES AND ROSE SHOWS.
BY W. BRADBURY.

= [' is now seventeen years since the first exhibition of
roses was held in the metropolis, and in that compara-
tively brief space of time, the cultivation of roses has
wi) increased, probably, a hundredfold, and some twelve

a unual exhibitions of these flowers have been established
in fhe: United Kingdom. For some time previous to the holding of
the first of the rose shows, the rose, so generally and so truthfully
designated the Queen of flowers, was rapidly increasing in popularity.
Amateurs who had been satisfied with the common kinds which had
long had a place in English gardens, were turning their attention to
the choicer hybrid perpetuals, and others that were being introduced
from the ‘Continent; and others, who had been more exacting in
their requirements, were devoting more space to the cultivation of
their favourite flower. This being the case, it was thought, in the
early part of 1858, by one of our leading amateur rosarians, that
the time had at length arrived for holding an exhibition of roses,
quite apart from everything else. The idea being communicated
to some of the principal growers, was considered most excellent.
A committee was formed, a fund raised, and the result was the
Grand National Rose Show, held in St. James’s Hall, on July 1,
1858.

A sonorous designation was that under which the exhibition was
held, but it was one which the results fully justified, for it was truly
orand and thoroughly national. All the nurseries in which roses
formed a special feature were represented by boxes of blooms,
varying in quality, but all more or less good; and the amateurs
who were pushing their way to the front, put in an appearance,
and joined heartily in the competition for the prizes offered.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 195

Those rosarians who had an opportunity of inspecting the beautiful
display of flowers, and the magnificent array of silver cups, some
thirty-six in number, which were awarded to the most successful
competitors, will not readily forget the effect it produced upon
their minds at the time. The second National Rose Show was held
in Hanover Square Rooms, on June 23,1859 ; but the roses did not
appear to such advantage as in St. James’s Hall the previous year,
and generally it was not such a decided success. The third National
Show was held at the Crystal Palace on July 12, 1860, when it
was attended by such an immense concourse of visitors that the
directorate determined henceforth to hold an exhibition of their own,
and the Crystal Palace Rose Show has, for the past fifteen years,
been invested with special interest to rosarians, because it is usually
held in advance of all the other exhibitions of a similar character,
and consequently affords the first opportunity for arriving at con-
clusions respecting the quality of the roses throughout the country.
The fourth National was held in the gardens of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society at South Kensington, on July 10, 1861; and since
that year an exhibition of roses has been held annually, under the
auspices of the Society.

It would occupy too much space to speak in detail of the various
exhibitions now held annually in the United Kingdom, and it will
suffice to say that the more important exhibitions in the provinces
are those held at Hereford, Exeter, and Birmingham. The latter,
which has long been considered one of the most important of the
provincial gatherings, has, since 1872, been held in connection with
the horticultural exhibitions held in the Lower Grounds, Aston Park,.
of which it has invariably formed an important feature. There is.
this year to be an exhibition of roses in the Nottingham Arboretum,
from the 8th to the 10th of July; and as the prizes cffered amount to
no less than £250, it will probably be the best show of the season.
There has also been a capital show of roses at the Alexandra Palace,
Muswell Hill, and under the able management of Mr. McKenzie,
the superintendent of the horticultural department, it proved
successful throughout.

The amount of money offered annually in the form of prizes for
roses is, at first sight, quite astounding. There is some difficulty in
arriving at an approximate estimate, but it cannot be less than
£2000, for, in addition to the sums offered in the schedules of the rose
shows, the metropolitan and several of the most important provincial
societies offer liberal sums for pot roses, and the majority of the
provincial societies that hold their exhibitions in June and July,
offer large amounts for roses, with a view to induce some of the prin-
cipal trade growers to add to the attractions of their exhibitions.

When we consider how high is the estimation in which the rose
is held by all classes of the community, and the liberal encourage-
ment it receives, it will not be found difficult to believe that the
trade in roses has now become of vast importance. In several of
the nurseries may be found as many as 100,000 standards ready for
sale, and, in addition, thousands of dwarts on their own roots and
on the manetti, It is practically impossible to say, within some

July,

196 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

thousands, how many standard roses are distributed from the
nurseries, but it certainly cannot be less than 1,000,000, of the value
of £50,000 ; and, in addition, thousands of dwarfs in and out of pots,
are of course sold annually. This, it must be understood, is exclusive
of the new roses sent out every year, for these form an important
department of the rose trade; and it is estimated that at least
£10,000 are paid annually to the French raisers for the new varieties
they have to offer, and these can hardly be propagated and placed in
the hands of the English amateurs for a less sum than £20,000.
Therefore, there cannot be less than £100,000 expended annually
in the purchase of roses.

Whilst the exhibitions have done much to encourage the cultiva-
tion of the rose throughout the country, the “ Amateurs’ Rose
Book,” which is unquestionably the most valuable work on the
cultivation of roses in the English language, and the Foran
Wor tp, may fairly claim some of the credit. Certain it is that no
one can read the “ Amateurs’ Rose Book,’’ which has now reached
its third edition, without being filled with a desire to form a
rose garden, and enter into the arena with his stands of twenty-
four, thirty-six, or forty-eight cut blooms, according to the means
at command, and it 1s equally certain that the many timely hints on
selecting and cultivating which have appeared in the pages of the
FioraL Wortxp, must have been of immense assistance to the culti-
vator in bringing his labours to a successful issue. I know the
advice on doubtful points that I have received through these publi-
cations has been most valuable to me, and gladly do I acknowledge
my indebtedness. Sometimes the advice most needed has referred
to some cultural detail, and at other times it has been in the form
of a criticism of the new varieties. The articles on the new roses
which appear from time to time in the Frorat Wortp are by no
means the least valuable of its contents, and I am afraid to say how
much money I have saved within the last ten years by acting upon
the advice given, and buying those only which have been recom-
mended, but I may say that by so doing | have avoided the purchase
of varieties that have ultimately proved to be inferior to those
already in the collection,

In no year has the encouragement to rosarians been more liberal
than in the present season, and fortunately there is an abundance of
flowers of good quality. It has been a trying season, for in the
spring we had a lons continuance of cold easterly winds. This was
followed by a period of brilliant sunshine and drought, and the trees
in many instances had more than their usual share of enemies to
contend with. The ‘‘ worm in the bud”? first, then the aphis, and
those who have succeeded in keeping these pests under have not
had their time hang heavily on their hands. The rains which fell
-about the middle of the month were of immense assistance in
helping the trees to fully develop their flowers, and they doubtless
have been the means of saving more than one rosarian from an igno-
minious defeat at the exhibition; for on dry soils, where there is
always more or less difficulty in the production of first-class blooms,
the drought was severely ielt. 1 have not had so much trouble

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 197

with vermin as some of my neighbours, for I have acted upon the
advice Mr. Hibberd gives us in the “ Amateurs’ Rose Book,” to the
effect that good cultivation is the best means of warding off the
attacks of insect pests; so long as a vigorous growth is maintained,
so long will the green-fly, which is one of the most troublesome
pests, be unable to dothem any harm ; but let the trees be checked in
their growth, either through an insufficiency of nourishment or
moisture, and they will at once be attacked by a colony of aphis,
and a considerable amount of labour will be necessary to dislodge
them. My roses are mostly growing in soil that was deeply
trenched and liberally manured previous to their being planted, and
which has been top-dressed annually. My practice for many years
past has been to apply a top-dressing of partly decayed stable manure
in March or April, and this has been found of immense assistance in
helping them to tide over periods of drought. Where they are
grown in beds, the entire surface is covered to a depth of six inches,
and the trees that are placed singly about the garden have the roots
covered to a distance of about eighteen inches from the main stem.
This not only prevents the moisture drying too rapidly out of the
soil, but it facilitates the application of water, for when the latter is
poured on the loose material it soon soaks into the ground, but
when the surface is exposed it becomes so hard in dry weather that
the water runs away and does very little good. Moreover, the trees
receive considerable assistance from the fertilizing properties
washed out of the manure in the course of the season, and in the
autumn, or during the winter, the manure can be covered by simply
turning over the surface soil.

GAY FLOWERS FOR NEXT SPRING.
BY GEORGE SMITH.

saPRING flowers are becoming more popular every year,
4 and in a few seasons a flower-garden unoccupied during
the months of March, April, and May, will be as singular
as an empty flower-garden during the summer season.
pees This is not by any means surprising, for there can be
no question that large numbers of the hardy flowers which bloom in
spring are extremely beautiful, and those best adapted for massing
are fortunately multiplied without difficulty. It is quite surprising
to find how easy large stocks of those which make the best display
may be raised, and | would strongly advise those who have not yet
had a display of spring flowers in the parterre to have one next
year, and to commence at once the task of raising a stock of the
various kinds with which to fill the beds.. There are large
numbers of plants capable of producing a beautiful display of
flowers in spring, more, in fact, than one would suppose, but they
are not all alike adapted for the parterre. Some are not so readily
propagated as the exigencies of the case demand, and others, again

July.

198 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

cannot be transplanted without receiving a check, or do not bloom
satisfactorily until well established. We will, therefore, pass them
by, as being suitable only for the herbaceous border, where they can
remain undisturbed throughout the year. There are plenty of good
things which can be propagated and transplanted with the same
facility as the commonest of the scarlet geraniums, and which also
will make a most beautiful display. The most useful of the spring-
flowering plants for massing are, unquestionably, Alyssums, Arabis,
Aubrietias, Daisies, Forget-me-Nots, Iberis, Phloxes, Pansies, Primu-
das, Silenes, Wallflowers, and Violas. These are rather too many for
an amateur to begin with in quantities; and it will, in most cases,
be well to select from them the Daisies, Forget-me-Nots, Silenes, and
Wallflowers. With the exception of the daisies, which can be pur-
chased at a very cheap rate, these can be raised from seed sown early
in July, and, provided the arrangements are good, the display will
be very effective. The Arabis can also be recommended, for it pro-
duces new roots so freely that it may, during the summer, be pulled
to pieces most unceremoniously, and planted in nursery beds with
the full assurance of its taking root and producing a stock of plants
by the autumn.

The dwarf growing Alysswm saxatile produces a mass of flowers
close upon the surface, and of the brightest yellow; andis one of the
finest yellow spring flowers for edging purposes we have ; itcan be pro-
pagated during the summer by means of cuttings of the side-shoots, in-
serted in sandy soil, under hand-glasses, placed on a shady border, and
also by seed sown at the same time. As itis of rather slow growth the
young plants will not be large enough for planting in the flower beds
until the autumn of the year followmg the striking of the cuttings
or the sowing of the seed, and in the meantime they must be planted
in a nursery bed, when sufficiently advanced, to afford them a chance
of becoming well furnished with roots and side shoots. The plants
may be employed in the flower garden séveral years in succession,
if the straggling shoots are pruned in when they are removed from
the seed-bed.

Arabis albida, is the best of its class; it has pure white flowers,
and when in bloom is about ten inches in height. To increase the
stock and keep the plants compact, pull the clumps to pieces either
when they come from the flower beds or in the course of the summer.
Shorten the stems if necessary, and plant in lines, either in a sunny
or shady position. It is of no consequence their not having any
roots, but sufficient stem must be left to admit of their being fastened
properly, and when they are without roots and put in a sunny posi-
tion, they must have some kind of shade for a fortnight or three
weeks after planting. It is not of much use to lift a large mass in
the autumn, and then pull it to pieces and plant in the beds, as it is
practically impossible to produce satisfactory results.

Aubrietia deltoidea, lilac, and A. purpurea, purple, are the two
best aubrietias. They should be propagated in precisely the same
manner as the arabis, with the exception that as they are of much
smaller growth they should be divided into small clumps instead of
singly. They both grow about three inches in height, and are very

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 199

beautiful for marginal or second lines. The aubrietias are not well
adapted for heavy clay soils, as in wet winters a portion of the plants
erish.

fs Daisies simply require to be divided into single crowns when
taken from the beds, or some time during the summer, and to be
planted in a shady position. The Double crimson, Double White,
and Double Pink are the most effective daisies, are exceedingly
valuable, for they bloom early and continuously, and are so hardy in
constitution, that they grow freely on the unkindest soils, and are
not affected by the most unfavourable weather.

The best of the Forget-me-Nots is that known as Myosoiis sylva-
tica, as it is robust in growth, blooms freely, and is not affected by
severe or wet winters. To raise a stock it is simply necessary to
sow the seed, which can be procured at a cheap rate, in drills on a
shady border, and lift when the plants are required for filling the
flower beds. As they will not be transplanted, the seed must be
sown thinly, or a few of the plants be pulled out when an inch or
so in height. The flowers are of a beautiful light blue shade, and
when the plants are in bloom they are usually about twelve inches
in height.

The dwarf-spring flowering Phloxes—of which, P. frondosa, rose,
P. Nelsoni, white, and P. verna, rosy-pink, are the best—must be
propagated from cuttings, as advised for the alyssum. They can
also be employed several seasons in succession, by pruning them to
keep them bushy. They require a rather more shady situation, more
moisture, and greater care than the alyssum.

The most generally useful of the evergreen Candytufts for
massing, is [beris sempervirens, which has pure white flowers. It
requires precisely the same treatment as the alyssum, and may be
kept until it attains the dimensions of a large bush.

The single and double varieties of the Primrose, Primula acaulis,
are very attractive in masses. Even the common Primrose itself is
useful for forming an edging to a bed filled with darker flowers. P.
altaica has deep violet flowers, and is very showy. PP. cortusoides
amena has flowers of deep rose-colour, is very free-flowering, and
unsurpassed in attractiveness. It is quite hardy, and can be
strongly recommended for bedding purposes; but it is yet too
expeusive to admit of its being extensively employed for that pur-
pose. They should all be divided in the same manner as the
daisies, and during the summer be grown in a shady situation.

On rather dry soils, Pansies are unsurpassed in effectiveness,
for they come into bloom early, and produce glorious masses of
yellow, purple, blue, and white; but on cold clays they cannot be
depended upon, and they should not, therefore, be planted. The
earliest blooming and the hardiest varieties are the Cliveden Blue,
Cliveden Purple, Cliveden White, and Cliveden Yellow, which have
flowers of the colour indicated by the name. Cuttings of the young
shoots should be struck in July, under hand-glasses in a shady
border, and the young plants be put in nursery lines immediately
they are rooted, to afford them a chance of becoming strong by the
time of their being planted in the flower-beds.

July.

200 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

The Violas require to be propagated and transplanted in
precisely the same manner as the pansies. They are very similar
in character, and succeed under the same conditions. The most
effective and useful varieties are, V. Perfection, blue; V. lutea major,
bright golden-yellow; and V. swlphurea grandiflora, pale sulphur.

The well-known Silene pendula is one of the most useful spring
bedders with pink flowers, as it may be raised in any quantity in the
same manner as the forget-me-nots. The seed must be sown some
time in July, and if thinly in drills, no transplanting will be
necessary beyond transferring them to the flower-beds. Like the
pansies, the silene does best on a rather dry soil. The beautiful
Silene pendula compacta, raised afew years since by Mr. William
Cole, is much better than the species, for it is more compact and
produces a greater profusion of flowers. For masses, especially if
the beds are small, and also for second rows in borders, it can be
strongly recommended. Seed is now cheap, and obtainable at ail
the nurseries and seed stores; so that there is no difficulty in giving
it a trial.

The Wallflowers are all very hardy, may be propagated readily
by means of seeds or cuttings with the utmost facility, and, in point
of effectiveness, they are unsurpassed. The seed should be sown
thinly in drills in an open quarter not later than the middle of
July. The plants will then require no transplanting. The best
results are obtained by sowing in May or June, and then trans-
planting once, and nipping out the growing point to promote the
production of side-shoots. Wallflowers may be kept an indefinite
number of years, but they have an unsightly appearance during the
summer season, and occasion a considerable amount of trouble ;
and the amateur will find it more advantageous to raise a fresh stock
annually. The Belvoir Castle Yellow is a fine dwarf variety, with
pure yellow flowers, and undoubtedly the best yellow spring flower-
ing plant we have for the centre of beds, and, in fact, for any
purpose where there is a difficulty in raising a stock of the alyssum.
The strain known in the trade as Dark Blood Red is very useful
for large beds, as the flowers are of a rich crimson, and in a mass_are
very effective.

Previous to sowing the seeds of either of the foregoing, the drills
should be well watered, to assure the soil being sufficiently moist
to assist the seeds to germinate quickly.

Roots ry Draiys.—In a paper secently read before the Edinburgh Botanical
Society, some curious cases were cited of the entire occupation and stoppage of
drains by roots of trees. In one instance a two-inch pipe, with sockets, laid in an
orchard a foot below the surface, was completely filled with the roots of an apple-
tree. In another, a root had entered a lead pipe and grown and branched into
numerous fibres which filled the pipe for a considerable distance. The strangest
case was where a willow growing near a dam had sent roots 25 feet beneath a road,
and penetrated a large leaden drain-pipe 7 feet below the surface, and stopped it,
The pipe was taken up and cleared, and the tree cut down. ‘Tbe drain was relaid,
but some time afterwards was again stopped. It was then found that the stump,
which had sprouted, had sent a mass of rootlets into the drain, which had filled the
pipe solidly, although their connection with the tree was only by a single rootlet.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 201

STRAWBERRIES IN SMALL GARDENS.

BY JOHN Scort,

Merriott Nurseries, Crewkerne, Somerset.

H| WING to the drought, the strawberry crop has not been
#| so heavy this season as usual; nevertheless, on ordinary
a { good soils, and also where the means have existed for
ys * supplying the beds rather copiously with water, the
poems fit has reached a fair size, and has been of excellent
quality. It would be a waste of time, a waste of space, and an undue
tax upon the reader's patience, to say much in praise of this fruit.
All who read these remarks will be prepared to acknowledge it to
be one of the most delicious fruits grown out-of-doors in this
country, and also one of the most useful for preserving. It will not,
however, be amiss to say, that to have strawberries in perfection,
you must have a bed of your own from which to gather. You can
then have the fruit in the freshest possible condition, in a perfect
state of ripeness, and possessing that delightful aroma peculiar only
to strawberries that have not had to be packed, and to pass through
the hands of the dealer and the fruiterer before coming to table.
To form a strawberry-bed is by no means difficult, neither is it very
expensive, even ifall the plants have to be purchased, for runners of
all the established kinds may be had at prices ranging from three
shillings and sixpence to five shillings per hundred. The after-
management is not likely to be an undue tax upon the time and the
skill of the amateur, for it really resolves itself into keeping the
bed free from weeds and surplus runners, and in placing loose
material underneath to keep the fruit clean. The beds cannot be
left wholly to themselves, for when they are neglected they become
so choked up with runners, as to render the production of good
crops impossible.

Knowing how highly appreciated is the fruit, and how produc-
tive a bed is when it receives the small amount of attention needful
to keep it in proper order, I would strongly recommend the forma-
tion of a good-sized bed in all villa gardens of a quarter of ar acre
and upwards.

Some diversity of opinion exists amongst cultivators as to the
best time for forming new beds. Some contend that the best results
are obtained by planting towards the end of the summer, whilst
others support spring planting. This difference is in a large measure
explained by the fact that beds may be formed at both seasons with
the certainty of the plants doing well. But this much may be said,
beds formed in the month of July, or as soon afterwards as strong
runners can be had, will produce nice crops the following summer :
but spring-planted beds will not come into bearing until the follow-
ing summer twelvemonths. Runners planted now will require rather
more attention at first than those planted in spring, otherwise they
will be dried up, and make but little progress. ‘They will simply
require a moderate watering every alternate day during the con-

July,

202 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

tinuance of dry weather, until they are nicely established. The
simplest course is to plant in rows two feet apart, and to put the
plants eighteen inches from each other in the rows. The gathering
of the fruit will be facilitated by allowing a space thirty inches in
width between every second row.

A rather deep-holding loam is undoubtedly the most suitable for
strawberries, but they do well in all kinds of soil, provided they are
not very light or excessively heavy. Soil which has been trenched
deeply and dressed liberally with manure in the winter previous, is
undoubtedly the most suitable in which to plant strawberries; and
if a piece of ground in a suitable position has been prepared as here
described, and cropped with early potatoes, it should be taken pos-
session of, for by forking it over the surface it will be in a capital
state for the reception of the strawberry plants.

Until the following spring, no attention will be required by the bed
beyond hoeing over the surface once or twice to keep down the weeds
in the autumn. In March,when the surface is dry, the soil immediately
about the plants should be made firm with the foot. Sometimes,
especially when the winter has been severe, the soil becomes so loose
that the dry winds materially injure the roots. In after years this
precaution is not often necessary. The bed should be hoed over as
often as may be necessary to keep down the weeds until the flower
trusses are pushing up, and then a little clean straw or long litter
from the stable should be laid between the rows, to prevent heavy rain
washing up the soil and damaging the fruit. The runners, unless
required for layering in pots, to raise a stock for the formation of a
fresh bed, or for pot culture under glass, should be removed when
about six inches in length. They can then be nipped off with the
thumb and finger; but if they are allowed to remain and take root,
a very large amount of additional Jabour is required in their removal,
and the plants are injured by their crowding them up, and prevent-
ing the development of healthy foliage.

From what I have seen of strawberry growing in the gardens of
amateurs, I am of opinion that amateurs are more in need of infor-
mation on the selection of suitable sorts than upon any other point.
Certainly, it is not an uncommon occurrence to meet with beds
consisting of sorts that are either second-rate in quality, or inferior
to others as regards productiveness. In selecting, those which are
free growers and produce heavy crops of fruit of large size and high
flavour should have the preference. The time of their ripening
their fruit must be taken into consideration, so as to prolong
the season as much as possible. Six sorts are none too many
for a garden of an average size, and the six that I should recommend
as combining the above-mentioned qualities are :—

Dr. Hogg.—A large and handsome fruit, of cockscomb shape,
and remarkable for its sweetness and rieh flavour. <A hardy and
free-bearing variety, ripening at mid-season.

Filbert Pine.—A medium sized conical fruit, of a dull crimson
colour, with solid, brisk, and richly-flavoured flesh. It is very pro-
lific, and sueceeds admirably on light soils, where the British Queen
will hardly grow. Late.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 203

Frogmore Late Pine.—A very large conical fruit, of a deep, yet
bright red colour; very juicy and richly flavoured, possessing, in a
large degree, the Pine aroma. The best late strawberry.

Keen's Seedling.— An old and well known strawberry, producing
large ovate fruit of good flavour. Rather early, and one of the
best for general purposes.

President.—A large, bandsome fruit, of the brightest crimson ;
of excellent flavour, and remarkable for its firmness. It travels
better than the majority of varieties ; early, productive, and in every
way desirable.

Vicomtesse Hericaut de Thury.—A pretty fruit, conical, rather
above medium size, and of a brilliant scarlet ; solid, rich, and briskly
flavoured. A very abundant bearer, and well adapted for general
cultivation. Mid-season.

If ten sorts are required, I should recommend in addition to the
foregoing :—

Carolina Superba.—A large, handsome ovate fruit, of a pale red
colour; firm, solid, rich, and vinous, with fine aroma. A very good
cropper. Mid-season.

Lliza Improved.—A medium sized ovate fruit, of a fine red
colour, and most exquisite in flavour. More productive than
Myatt's Eliza, and ripening at mid-season.

Premier.—A large, roundish fruit; corrugated, firm, rich, and
juicy, and with bright shining red skin. A good cropper. Mid-
season.

Sir Charles Napier—A very large fruit, of handsome appear-
ance and good quality. The flesh is brick, rather acid, but not
highly flavoured. It is of robust habit, very productive, and brings
its crop to maturity at mid-season.

I would add that these have been carefully selected from my
collection, which now includes nearly one hundred of the best sorts
in cultivation.

FILMY FERNS.

m= 1LMY ferns, which comprise the Hymenophyllums, the
© Todeas, and the T'richomanes, differ from ferns generally
grown, in requiring a much closer and moister atmo-
sphere and the fronds to be kept in a constantly moist

state. Two of the best known filmy ferns are Zodea
superba, which is perhaps one of the most beautiful ferns in existence,
and the Killarney fern, Zrichomanes radicans, which is certainly not
wanting in attractiveness when in ordinary health. These ferns have
such a cool and refreshing appearance during the summer season,
that wherever ferns find a home under glass, provision should be
made for their cultivation. Inhabiting, as they do, when growing
naturally, dark ravines where they are constantly wetted with the
spray from a waterfall, or kept sufficiently damp by the moisture rising
from the water below, they are necessarily peculiar in their require-

July.

204 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ments, and to achieve success in their culture they must be placed
under conditions somewhat similar to those under which they are
placed in a state of nature.

To cultivate filmy ferns successfully is not difficult, and no great
expense need be incurred in providing for their wants; a single
specimen may be grown under an ordinary bell-glass, half-a-dozen
plants in an ordinary plant or fern case, but if the collection is
rather large, a cool shady corner of the fernery may be shut off from
the other part of the house by means ofa division, or, more properly
speaking, a glass screen. The close moist atmosphere so essential
to their health, is more or less hurtful to the majority of the other
ferns, therefore some separation is necessary in the interest of both
classes. Even if the collection is large, it does not necessarily follow
that the fernery should have a division of glass put up, for all the
plants can be grown singly under glasses, or a few may be grouped
together in cases. At Kew Gardens, for example, in which the col-
lection is thoroughly representative, each species is grown in a
separate case of somewhat primitive construction, and this plan
may be commended to the notice of those amateurs who are disposed
to commence their culture. A beginning may be made with two or
three kinds, and as soon as their cultivation is well understood they
can be added to according to the inclination of the cultivator. By this
arrangement there will be no great outlay at any one time either for
plants or for cases, and there will be sufficient opportunities for be-
coming well acquainted with their requirements before a large out-
lay is made. This is a point of some importance, for they are mostly
rather expensive to purchase. A leaky aquarium, with a cover of
green glass, is in every way suitable for these ferns, when no longer
fit for its original purpose.

The species to which special reference is now made, may be
divided into two classes, one comprising those requiring the tem-
perature of a stove, and the other, those succeeding well in a cook
fernery or greenhouse. They will all grow freely in the stove, but in
purchasing it is desirable to select the sorts according to the tem-
perature in which they are to be grown. A list of a few of the
most desirable species will be given, with indication of the tempera-
ture most suitable for each, so that there will be no difficulty in
selecting suitable kinds.

In fitting up cases for these ferns a moderate quantity of soil
must be provided, and above the soil should project pieces of stone
that is rather soft, and that will hold the moisture.

The Hymenophyllums and the Trichomanes have creeping rhi-
zomes, and spread over the surface and any piece of rock that may be
p:aced on the soil; whilst the Todeas have a single upright stem, and
one of the species when of rather large size has the appearance of a
miniature tree fern. The Todeas therefore should be grown in an
ordinary pot, and the pot placed in the case, or in a pan and covered
with a bell-glass; the others should be grown in ordinary pans. The
Todeas have spreading fronds, and plants growing in six-inch pots
will require a bell-glass twelve or fifteen inches in diameter to allow
of the full development of the fronds. Larger plants will of course

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 205

require glasses of proportionate size. When the fronds are crippled
and bent for want of room, they have an unsatisfactory appearance.
The other kinds are perhaps more effective when the glass is quite
full, and the fronds press against the side of the glass. A mixture
consisting of fibrous peat two parts, sphagnum moss one part, and
about half a part of lumps of sandstone ranging in size from a hazel
nut toa walnut, is the most suitable for the majority of the species,
The Todeas may have half a partof fibrous loam in lieu of the lumps
of stone, and in all cases where there isa difficulty in obtaining the
stone, broken bricks may be substituted. The pots must have a
good drainage of crocks placed in the bottom, for long experience
in their cultivation has shown that although they require to be kept
constantly moist, the drainage must be sufficient to carry off the
superfluous moisture, and prevent the soil becoming sour through
the moisture remaining in a stagnant state. The plants should be
turned out of the small pots carefully and put in the pans, the soil
pressed firmly about them, and the pieces of stone placed over the
surface and put about halfway in the soil and halfway out. Some
tew of the smaller growers succeed best on pieces of wood, and on
portions of dead stems of tree ferns, but as none of these will be
mentioned, it is not necessary to say anything in reference to their
cultivation, and on this occasion attention will be confined to those
which require to be grown in soil. Those with creeping rhizomes
must not be potted deeply, and as they succeed much better where
they can spread over a few pieces of stone the latter should not be
more than from two to three inches above the surface. The Todeas
should be potted in the usual manner, and the crown of the plant
kept from two to four inches above the level of the rim, and the soil,
which should have a surfacing of live moss, banked up about it.

The general management consists in sprinkling the plants over-
head daily during the summer season, and as often as may be neces-
sary to keep the fronds damp at other times. Water perfectly clean
and of the same temperature as the structure should be used, and it
may be applied with the syringe in the form of a gentle shower or
through a fine rose. Although these ferns require a close atmo-
sphere, they must not be kept absolutely without air, and the glass
may be occasionally removed, or the case opened, but this should be
done when the house is closed. They must be kept in a rather dark
position, and should they be placed where they will be exposed to
the sun, a thick shading must be put over the glass before the sun
shines upon them. When grown indoors, a window facing the north
should be selected, and care taken to have the window closed when
the glasses are removed to admit of the necessary watering.

The undermentioned are the best fora cool house :—Hymenophyl-
lum demissum, H. flecuosum, H. seabrum, Todea superba, Trichomanes
elongatum, T. radicans, T. reniforme, T. venosum. The finest of
those requiring a stove temperature are, Hymenophyllum ciliatum,
H. pulcherrima, Todea Wilkesiana, Trichomanes crispum, T. mazi-
mum, and 7. rigidum. The majority of the cool species may be most
successfully cultivated in indoor apartments, provided they are not
exposed to draughts or sunshine. Finix-Mas.

duly.

206 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

CHOICE PLANTS FOR THE GARDEN FRAME.

BY A LONDON AMATEUR.

gree ANY, with only a pit or garden frame in which to

i}/ cultivate plants in pots, will probably be interested in a
few particulars of some plants that are not generally
known and cultivated, but which are exceedingly
beautiful, and may be grown most successfully without
the aid of any artificial heat whatever. The class of plants to which
it is intended to direct the attention of the reader, comprise the
hardy Lady’s Slippers, and a few other hardy orchids; the hardy
Side-saddle, or pitcher plant, the grass of Parnassus, Pinguiculas,
and others of like character. A two-light frame, about six by eight
feet, would afford sufficient accommodation for a rather large collec-
tion of these, and throughout the season the amateur would have
something to interest him. It must be premised that these plants
will require greater care and more attention than the general run of
soft-wooded plants. But when their peculiarities are properly un-
derstood, no great difficulty will be experienced in growing them to
perfection. Any ordinary pit or frame will answer perfectly, pro-
vided it is watertight; for although the majority of the plants that
will be named Iuxuriate in an abundance of moisture during the
summer season, they will suffer considerably if exposed to drip.
Especially is drip injurious to the plants when at rest during the
winter season. A shady situation is required by most of the plants ;
and to avoid the labour incidental to the use of shading material the
frame should be placed in a shady situation, not overhung with
trees. When the pit has been placed in a position and has had a
layer of sifted coal-ashes placed in the bottom to a depth of three or
four inches, it will be ready for the reception of the plants with
which it is to be occupied.

We now come to the selection of the most interesting of the sub-
jects particularly suitable for the purpose which we have in view.
There will be no trouble in finding a sufficient number, for there are
more than will be required in any one collection. Perhaps the most
important are the hardy orchids, and foremost amongst these are the
Lady’s Slippers, which are very beautiful, and owing to the peculiar
formation of the flowers, are generally much admired. Cypripedium
acaule is a fine American species, producing flowers quite two inches
in length, and of a lovely rose colour, on stems about seven inches
in height. C. parvijlorum, a vigorous growing species, ranging
in height from twelve to twenty-four inches ; the stems are leafy,
and bear from one to three large flowers; the lips yellow, and the
petals and sepals brownish purple. OC. pubescens is similar to the
preceding, with larger flowers. C. caleeolus is a fine British species
not often met with. From one to three blooms are produced on a
stem, and these are large ; the slipper, or labellum, yellow, and the
sepals and petals reddish purple. C. spectabile is one of the very finest
of the hardy species. The flowers are produced on stems about a

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 207

foot high, are of large size, and the slipper is of a delicate rose
colour, whilst the sepals and petals are pure white. Several speci-
mens of this species have been exhibited this season, and it may be
truly said that none of the orchids grown in a high temperature, at
an immense expense, presented a more beautiful appearance. These
should be grown in pots filled to about one-third of their depth
with large crocks, and in a mixture of three parts fibrous peat, one
part leaf-mould, and one part of rough sand. Orchis foliosa is of a
quite distinct character to the preceding, and produces spikes of
purple flowers about eighteen inches in height. It makes a grand
specimen, and is of free growth, succeeding admirably in a mixture
of equal parts turfy loam and fibrous peat. They all require liberal
supplies of water during their growing season, and the soil to be
kept just moist at other times. Throughout the summer, the frame
must be freely ventilated, and during the continuance of frosty
weather be kept close.

The side-saddle plant, Sarracenia purpurea, has a remarkably
interesting appearance at all times, for the leaves have the appear-
ance of large pitchers, and remain in a fresh state throughout the
year. It thrives admirably in a mixture of peat and moss, and
during the summer the pots should be stood in a pan of water. At
the Glasnevin Botanic Gardens there is a large specimen of this
remarkable pitcher or side-saddle plant, which has been out of doors
several years, and makes good progress. It is planted in the bog, and
the soil with which it is surrounded was frozen quite solid several
times in the course of last winter, so that there is no doubt of its
hardiness.

Several of the hardy primulas are more beautiful grown under
glass in a cold frame than when planted in an open border. There
are, for example, the two Japanese species—P. cortusoides and P.
Japonica, and their several varieties. The best varieties of the
former are P. c. amena, P. c. lilacina, P. c. alba. All the varieties
of P. Japonica are good. These may all be grown in a good turly
loam and leaf-mould, and when in the form of large specimens are
extravagantly showy. The dwarf kinds, such as P. denticulata, P.
farinosa, P. glaucescens, P. glutinosa, P. luteola, P. nivalis, and P.
viscosa, are all beautiful, the two latter being especially good. They
all thrive in a light mixture of leaf-mould, loam, and sand.

Again, some of the tuberous-rooted begonias which are most
attractive, producing a profusion of brightly coloured flowers,
thrive exceedingly well in a frame. The best, perhaps, are BD,
Boliviensis, scarlet; B. octopetala, white, and B. Veitchi, vermilion.
These all succeed most satisfactorily in good turfy loam, leaf-mould,
and sand. The pots should be placed, during the winter, where
the frost cannot reach the soil. In spring, the tubers will require
shaking out of the old soil, and potting in fresh compost.

There are numerous other plants suitable for frames; but I am
most anxious not to overburden the reader with names, and suflicient
have beep mentioned to make a good beginning with. Those who
are desirous of having a larger collection, may have a more extended
list by expressing their wishes to that effect in the /Loran Woxrtp.

July,

208 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN QUIDE.

SPRAYS FOR THE HAIR.

BY MISS A. HASSARD.

ae yey Y last paper in the FLorat Wor zp being on the subject of
y] } bouquets for the head, I think I cannot do better
a) VA) ba! than follow it up by one on the arranging of natural
P4 bi! flowers for the hair, as one so often accompanies the
~~ Other. Sprays of natural flowers in the hair have
a much more pleasing effect than those formed of artificial flowers,
but they are not so often employed as they otherwise would be, from
the prevailing supposition that they soon droop and fade in the
heated atmosphere of a theatre or ball-room. That they do so,
if not properly mounted, there caniot be two opinions, therefore
how to mount them properly and get over this difficulty is what I
shall endeavour clearly to explain.

All flowers such as pelargoniums, etc., should be gummed, and
such as camellias and gardenias wired. Those varieties which last
longest should be selected, but by being mounted many can be
employed which would otherwise fall to pieces in a few hours when
subjected to a heated atmosphere. To enter on the subject of how
each particular flower should be wired would take up far too much
space, therefore I must only presume that my readers are well in-
formed on this point, and have the flowers which may be selected
so prepared. The form and style as regards shape of sprays of
natural flowers change with the fashion just as much as with artificial
ones, therefore the best plan is to copy the form of the fashionable
artificial ones as closely as possible.

The centre flower of all sprays for the hair is mostly of a larger
size than the others employed in its construction, such for example as
a rose-bud, gardenia, etc. ; then around this centre flower are worked
others of a lighter growth and smaller size, such as stephanotis, bou-
vardia, ete. The flowers to form the point should be lighter still,
such as lily of the valley, or any of a light and graceful form suited
to finish off the point. At this season a pretty spray could be
formed of a bloom of eucharis amazonica, spikes of scarlet ixia, and
pips of stephanotis, maidenhair fern being interspersed through the
whole. I shall now describe how I should set about arranging a
spray of the flowers which I have just enumerated. First as to the
wires, etc., required ; these will be a stub wire, some piercing wire,
a reel of fine binding wire, some fresh green wood moss, and a little
white cotton wool. The first thing I should do would be to pull the
truss of stephanotis to pieces, that is to say, break or cut off each
pip, in place of leaving them all in one truss, as when growing.
The number of pips which form one truss vary, some have five
and others seven pips, and some even a larger number. Having
separated each pip, I should pierce the tube close to where the short
stem joins on, with one of the piercing wires, and I should cross
this again with another, which would leave four ends projecting, and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 209

then I should pull these to equal lengths and then bend them back
all together till they form a wire stem to the pip; the next thing
will be to take one of the four ends so bent back, and twist it round
the others, and a firm artificial stem is formed. Operate in this way
with as many pips as may be required, then take the spikes of ixias
and round each of these twist a piece of piercing wire. The reason
for doing this is that the stems of the ixia are hard and brittle, and
are therefore difficult to bend into any shape or position that may
be required, but when d one with binding wire, as I have described,
this difficulty is quite overcome. The eucharis bloom will not re-
quire to be prepared in any way. Having finished all, so far as re-
gards wiring, the next move is to endeavour to keep them as fresh
as possible, and it is for this purpose the moss and cotton wool are
required. Dip the cotton in cold water, and then press the water
from it, leaving enough to make it feel wet in the hand, and re-
taining moisture enough to keep the flowers fresh during the evening.
Next take a very small portion of the cotton, and bind it close round
the bottom of each pip of stephanotis with the reel wire. Being
white, the cotton will not show up against the colour of the ste-
phanotis. Next take the stub wire, and to the end bind on with the
reel wire a frond of maidenhair, binding in a little damp moss all
along the stem, then take an unopened pip of stephanotis and lay it
on the fern, and bind it on to the stub, and so work along down the
wire, adjusting the flowers and foliage according to taste. When the
spray has been made of the length desired, a spray of fern should be so
adjusted as to conceal the finishing off. The stems of the flowers
should be next cut off, but not shorter than two inches as these when
the spray is about to be placed in the hair can be inserted in a little
flower tube filled with water, such as are used for coat flowers, the
hook having been broken off. This may be easily concealed amongst
the braids of the hair, and will tend to keep the spray fresh during
the evening.

Should it so happen that the arrangement be required to keep
fresh for some time previous to being worn, such as taking it a
long journey, and that it must be made on the morning of the
day required, the best way to preserve its freshness would be to
place it in a small biscuit tin, in the bottom of which is a mat
formed of wet moss, on this lay the spray, then take some water
and well sprinkle it with it, and put on the lid which should be as
air-tight as possible. In this manner it will keep fresh for two
days, but care must be taken not to overturn the box, or the wet
moss would spoil the flowers.

Some people, after they have made their floral arrangements on
the moss and damped the flowers, lay a sheet of cotton wool over
the face of the spray or bouquet, but I myself do not approve of
this plan, as there is a gum on one side of the cotton wool which if
it becomes damp and touches the flowers anywhere, sticks amongst
them, and imposes on one a great deal of trouble in picking the
flowers over. If flowers are only to be sent a short distance, there
is no better mode of packing than in cotton wool, but where flowers

require to be damped, it should be avoided, except where Bowers
! 1
July.

210 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

unmounted are to be sent, in which case such as roses, can have
each bloom closely rolled up in a piece of wet cotton wool, and
packed together; but when mounted flowers are being sent a long
distance by hand, I should not advise its being employed, but if by
rail or post and the box receive rough treatment, then over the face
of the arrangement by all means place cotton wool. The trouble in-
curred will be compensated for by its arrival at its destination ina
fresh and perfect condition. According to the season of the year, the
flowers for sprays must be selected; it but would occupy far too
much space were I to enumerate those obtainable each month, so
on this point my readers must use their own discretion and taste.

VEGETABLES TO BE SOWN AND PLANTED IN JULY.

BY WILLIAM COLE,
Head Gardener, Ealing Park, W.

mF URING the month of July, a large amount of work of
| an important character has to be done, for some of the
principal winter and spring crops have to be either sown
or planted out from the seed-bed. Amateurs and others
who have not had much practical knowledge of crop-
ping the kitchen garden, suppose that all the seed sowing and the
greater part of the planting-out are done in the months of March
and April; but it is not so, for, although the majority of the prin-
cipal crops is then sowr or planted, as the case may be, much is
necessarily left to{be done in the summer season. Indeed, during July,
sowings of ten or twelve different vegetables must be made, and nearly
the same number of sorts planted out from seed-beds. It will
therefore be seen there is plenty to do during the next few weeks,
and it may be said with advantage, that all work proper to July
should be done in that month. After the end of July, the days
shorten at a rapid rate, and the temperature materially declines ;
and there is in consequence no chance of crops sown or planted a
month or so after the proper date making up for lost time.

Up to the middle of June, the season has been characterized by
drought, and although the crops have not suffered so severely as
they did in 1868, peas and other things which require an abundance
of moisture to enable them to bring heavy crops to perfection, have
not grown so vigorously as we could wish, and the later kinds will
not, in all probability, produce such heavy crops as they do under
more favourable circumstances. To supply all the crops with water,
is, where the kitchen garden is of a rather large size, quite out of
the question. Surface waterings are most hurtful, for they tend to
draw the fibrous roots towards the surface, and immediately the
surface soil becomes dry the crops are placed under conditions less
favourable than they would have been had they received no arti-
ficial watering. Consequently, when it is considered desirable to

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 211

water any established crop, apply sufficient to moisten the soil about
the roots to a considerable depth. It is in every way preferable to
water one crop thoroughly than to half-water half-a-dozen. Crops
newly planted do not, of course, require heavy waterings, but a
moderate sprinkling, as the plants have but few roots, and these are
necessarily near the surface. Peas, cauliflowers, cabbage lettuce,
and kales, will all pay for a few liberal soakings; but the crop to
which special attention should be directed is that of scarlet-runner
beans. These, with a little assistance, will yield a plentiful supply
from the time of their coming into bearing until the frost makes
an end of them; and in a season like the present the produce will
be found of especial value. They should have, about twice a week,
liberal supplies, and they may also be sprinkled overhead occasionally
with immense advantage. To insure the water soaking down to
the roots, a small ridge of soil may on each side be formed, about
nine inches from the row ; and when time can be spared for sprink-
ling them overhead, it should be done in the evening with a water-
ean, to which a rather coarse rose has been affixed. To procure
soft-water is out of the question, but, as far as practicable, the water
used should be taken from a tank or butt where it has been fully
exposed to the atmosphere for at least a few hours previously.
Water drawn from a deep well and used immediately does, as a
rule, more harm than good to the crops to which they are applied,
excepting for seed-beds or small plants recently put out. The
watering-can should be used without the rose, as the surface is not
so likely to be beaten down go hard. All watering, especially when
the use of the rose is necessary, should be done some time in the
evening.

The most important crops of which seed must be sown in July
for successional supplies or otherwise, are as follows :—Long-pod
Beans, if broad beans are in much request late in the season; but
as the crop sown now is so risky, no sowing should be made unless
the circumstances are exceptional, and there is plenty of spare
room. Hndive and Lettuce for main autumn crops. Two sowings
of endive should be made, one at the beginning of the month and
the other at the end. The Moss-curled and the Green-curled should
be sown both times, with the addition at the last sowing of the
Broad-leaved Batavian. The lettuce should also be sown twice, and
at the same time as recommended for the endive, the best sorts for
the first sowing being the Paris White Cos and the Drumhead
Cabbage, and for the last the Brown Bath Cos and the Hammersmith
Hardy Cabbage. As both lettuce and endive run to seed before
they are half-grown, when transplanted in dry seasons, they should
be sown very thinly in drills, where they are to remain, and the
plants thinned to the proper distance apart when of a suitable size.
The surplus lettuce plants should be removed gradually, in case
snails and slugs should attack them whilst small, and make blanks
in the rows. Peas—the best sorts for sowing now are Lazton’s
Alpha, Sutton’s Ringleader, and Haste’s Kentish Invicta. These, if
the season is favourable, will produce a few dishes, which will be
very acceptable; but there is too much risk with peas sown now to

July,

212 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

justify amateurs with small or even middle-sized gardens sowing
them. Parsley should be sown during the second or third week
for the main crop. For the main gatherings a long row by the
side of one of the walks will be the most convenient; but it is
desirable, also, to sow a bed which can be covered with a one or
two-light box during the winter, to maintain a supply in severe
weather. Parsley requires rather rich soil, and stands the winter
best upon a dry subsoil. [t should be thinned three or four inches
apart in the rows, to insure the development of strong crowns.
Spinach may be sown early in the month, if there is a likelihood of
a scarcity of green vegetables during the autumn. Provided the
soil is in good heart, a plentiful supply of excellent quality will be
obtained. The Round-seeded is the best for present sowing. Turnips
for main crop should also be at once sown, if not already done. The
best sort to sow are the Larly White Stone and Veitch’s Red Globe,
as they produce good crops, are of excellent quality, and form a
capital succession, the first-mentioned coming into use first. The
other has the merit of producing handsome bulbs, which remain fit
for use a long time after they attain their full size. In dry seasons
like the present there is no little difficulty in raising a crop of
turnips, because of the destructiveness of the “fly.” The only
means of saving the crop is to dust the bed or drills with soot as
soon as the turnips are visible, and repeat at intervals until the
crop is out of danger. A sharp look-out must be kept, because the
“fly,” when the plants come up slowly, devour them as fast as they
come through, and unless the dressings of soot are applied hardly
a plant will be seen. The soot should be applied when the leaves
are wet with dew, or after the bed has been sprinkled, as it then
adheres to the leaves, and is consequently more efficacious.

In sowing seeds at this season of the year, especially if the
weather is dry, it is most excellent practice to draw the drills rather
deeper than usual, from half an inch to one inch deeper will suffice,
and then fill the drills quite full of water. If the soil is very dry,
the drill may be filled twice. When the water has soaked away sow
the seed, and then cover in usual way. By this plan seed is enclosed
in a body of fine moist soil, and placed under conditions most
favourable to its germinating quickly. Sometimes, when seeds are
sown in soil in a dry state, they do not germinate for a month or
six weeks after the proper time, and frequently the crops are of
very little value in consequence. Filling the drills with water even
when the breadth sown is rather large takes up, comparatively
speaking, very little time. A little guano sprinkled along drills
previous to sowing turnips will promote a quick growth during the
earliest stages, and materially assist a crop at the most critical
moment.

The crops that require planting during the month are Broccolis,
Borecoles, or Kales, Brussels Sprouts, Oabbages, Cauliflowers from
the May sowings; Celery and Lettuce from sowings made the previous
month. It is now quite time all the main crops of the foregoing
vegetables are in their permanent quarters; and there must be no
waiting for showers, or the season will be gone. The soil in the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 213

celery trenches should be made thoroughly moist before the plants
are put in them ; and for a few days after planting, protect from the
sun by laying across the trenches canvas, boards, or even branches
of trees or shrubs. In planting the other vegetables mentioned,
lay down the line and make a shallow trench with either the foot or
the hoe, and previous to planting pour water along them. The
work can be done more readily, as the soil will be in a moist state,
and will not fall into the hole with the dibble; and the roots being
in contact with the moist soil will be more favourably placed than
when in dry, powdery stuff. They must be watered daily for a
week, at least, should the weather continue dry, to give them a good
start. Planted in the ordinary way, and then left to themselves,
they suffer so much at the commencement that they lose quite
a month, which may be truly described as most valuable time. In
dry seasons the plants are especially liable to be cut off by the larvx
of the daddy-long-legs, a large brown grub. They generally eat
through the stem just below the surface, and if the soil about any
of the plants is examined immediately the plant flags, the grub may
be caught and destroyed. They seldom injure plants with hardy
stems; and if the tender part can be kept up above the surface,
they will receive no harm. For this reason rather tall plants with a
portion of hard stem are preferable for soils badly infested with
these grubs. When they commence their depredations, the unin-
jured plants should have a little of the soil drawn from about the
stems, if it can be conveniently done.

KALOSANTHES FOR THE CONSERVATORY.

BY THOMAS TRUSSLER,

Nurseryman, Edmonton, N.

=== may be said with truth that these beautiful flowers do

i, not receive anything like the attention they deserve.
Whether for exhibition or conservatory decoration they
are equally valuable, and there is no other class of green-
house plants with which I am acquainted that can present
such glorious masses of colour at Midsummer when they are at their
best.

Starting with the assumption that the Kalosanthes are worth
growing, I will now proceed to offer a few hints upon their culture,
which will help to make matters more easy for those who know little
or nothing about their management, and are persuaded by me to take
them in hand, with the determination to deal with them according to
their deserts. Well, then, to business. The cuttings can be struck
at almost any time of the year, but the best season is certainly during
July and August. Short stout side-shoots, without flower, should be
selected, and inserted singly in three-inch pots, filled with a mixture
of peat, loam, leaf-mould, and sharp silver-sand. The wood at the
base of the cutting should be firm, and the leaves stripped off that

July.

214 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

portion of them which will be below the surface. A cold frame is
the most suitable situation until they are rooted, and as soon as that
is accomplished the plants should be shifted into six-inch pots, and
be placed out of doors, or returned to the frame, and receive liberal
ventilation. If placed out of doors, they must be housed at the same
time as the stock of greenhouse plants.

During the winter Kalosanthes require very little water, but they
must have sufficient to keep the foliage from flagging. In February
the growing points should be stopped, and as soon as they have
started again the plants should be shifted into larger pots. At this
stage it must be determined whether the plants are to be grown into
large specimens or flowered in a young state. If required for speci-
mens, the growing points will require nipping out, and the plants
shifting on as fast as it becomes necessary. They, however, should
not be put into pots too large, and they must have the last shift by
the beginning of August, and no stopping ought to take place after
that time. The treatment advised will show that they are not to
bloom the first season, our object being to produce stocky plants.
From June to the middle of September the whole of the stock should
either be in the open air or in a cold frame, with the lights drawn off
at all times excepting when the rains are very heavy.

Keep them in a dry airy greenhouse or pit through the winter,
and close to the glass, and early in March shift them into the flower-
ing pots, and regulate and tie out the young shoots. From this time
until they come into flower keep close to the glass, and tie out the
growth as it progresses, to insure well-proportioned specimens.
A well-grown specimen when in flower ought to present a huge
convex mass of bloom, like that of a well-finished exhibition pelar-

onium.

After the beauty of the flowers is past, the whole stock should be
placed out of doors in the sun for a week or ten days, and be kept
quite dry. At the end of that time cut each shoot back to about two
inches, and place them under cover, and give the old stumps a skiff
with the syringe once a day, but keep the soil dry. When the young
buds begin to push, give a little water to the roots, to keep the soil
moist; and after the young shoots are an inch long take the plants out
of the pots, reduce the balls, and repot them in the same size pots
again. Great care must be exercised in watering them until the pots
are full of roots, and the shelter of a cold frame must be afforded to
keep off the autumn rains. A nice balance between too much and too
little moisture at the roots must be maintained. Too much will de-
stroy the roots and produce disastrous results, on the one hand, and
too little will cause the loss of the lower leaves, and thus give the
specimens an unsightly appearance.

That succulent plants like these require good drainage is only a
matter of course, therefore nothing further need be said about it,
and we will pass on to the preparation of the soil. At one time it
was considered necessary to pot them in brick rubbish, but now they
are better understood a more substantial compost is used. There is
nothing better than good turfy loam, mixed with a liberal proportion
of leat-mould, broken crocks, and silver-sand, and a small quantity

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 215

of thoroughly-decayed hotbed manure. It should be used in a rough
lumpy condition, and every particle of the fibre preserved.

The cutting back and repotting must be practised annually after
the flowering season is past, in the same way as already advised. If
large specimens are required quickly, three or four small plants may
be put into one pot. The only point worth notice in the matter is to

select nice healthy little specimens in five-inch pots.

RAISING HARDY FLOWERS FROM SEED.
BY WILLIAM GARDINER.

-A\RGE numbers of amateurs are now stocking their
) borders with hardy flowers, and restricting their bedding
operations to the flower-beds ; and as the cost of pur-
wz) chasing plants for this purpose is to many a serious

dt 7 matter, I have thought a brief description of the best
way of raising seedlings, by which a large stock of hardy flowers
may be obtained at a trifling cost, would be useful. I have thought
it desirable to direct attention to the matter now, for if the seed is
sown at once the plants will acquire sufficient strength to produce
a good bloom next year.

Raising hardy herbaceous plants from seed is a comparatively

easy matter, but as the seed of many of them is small, a little trou-
ble must be taken to have the soil in proper condition before they are
sown, otherwise many of the choicest subjects will probably not come
up. A shady spot ought to be selected, or some system of shading
adopted, because the seed must have moisture to enable it to vegetate,
and when exposed to the sun the soil soon dries up, and the continual
application of water and the sun together soon make the surface
compact and hard. It is then in anything but a congenial con-
dition for the tender seedlings to push through. Supposing a nice
shady situation has been selected, dig the ground up, and if rather
stiff, prick in a little sandy stuff just upon the surface, or, what is
better still, a good dressing of drift or river sand. After thisis done,
make the surface smooth, rake off the stones and rough pieces’ of soil,
and mark the space out into beds about two feet wide. This willbe
a convenient width for attending to the plants when up, and the
space occupied by each sort can be separated with a piece of stick.

Sow the seed thinly, and have a few handfuls of sifted soil in
readiness to cover it with. The thickness of the covering must be
regulated by the size of the seed, but it is easier to err in putting
too much than not enough ; sufficient to cover it 1s all that is needed.
Instead of allowing the plants to remain crowded together until they

are strong enough to be planted in their permanent quarters, prick
them out in a spare corner, at a distance of about a couple of inches
apart, and let them remain for a few weeks to strengthen. A cool
dull day ought to be selected for all transplanting operations, and the
plants have a good watering to settlethe soil. Ifthey are lifted care-
fully and not allowed to remain out of the ground any longer than

July.

216 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

possible, with the above-mentioned precautions, they will scarcely ex-
perience a check. These things ought not to remain either in the
seed or nursery bed a day longer than is really necessary, for it ruins
them to be drawn up with weak spindly stems. About September,
or even earlier if of sufficient strength, the plants should be planted
in the border, and a careful watch kept to prevent their being de-
stroyed by snails or other vermin.

Seeds of a large number of the finest perennials may be obtained
at prices ranging from threepence to sixpence per packet, but for the
information of those who may be desirous of saving seed of any
flowers they have, I will add a few words on saving seeds of hardy
flowers. First of all, let me say that as soon as the ripening of the seed
commences a sharp look-out must be kept, or it will be blown away
by the winds long before a thought enters the cultivator’s head about
gathering it. Very few plants open all their flowers at once, so that
the whole of the seed cannot mature at the same time ; therefore, if
the flower-spikes are left until all the seed is ripe before being
gathered, a large portion of the seed must be lost. I have hit upona
capital plan for avoiding the loss of seed from outdoor plants, and it
is so simple that it is within the reach of every one. At the com-
mencement of the season I have a lot of five-inch pots filled with
sand, and watered sufliciently to make it thoroughly moist. These
are placed in a cool airy place, generally a peach-house from which the
crop has been gathered ; but a room-window will suit equally well.
The borders are looked over frequently, and the flower-spikes of any
plants from which it is desired to save seed are cut off as soon as the
lower or outside pods begin to ripen, and stuck in one of the pots of
sand. A Jabel is put to each, and the pot set upon a piece of paper
to catch the seed as it falls out. The spikes must be cut off with a
sharp knife; for when twisted or bruised the stems do not take up
the moisture so readily, and the seed shrivels and perishes. The
stems may be taken out, and half an inch of the stems cut off about
once a week, until the whole of the pods are ripe. Care must be
taken not to remove the spikes until the first tier of seed-pods are
matured. By this simple method any loss of seed is effectually pre-
vented.

MESSRS. SUTTON AND SON’S SEED STORES,
READING.

maaeay LE seed stores of Messrs. Sutton and Sons at Reading are of such magni-

Mf| tude, and so unique in their way, that we feel assured our readers will
be interested in a brief description of them. To describe them so fully
as we could wish is rendered impossible by the limited space at our
disposal ; but we hope to be able to convey an adequate idea of their
colossal proportions, and their adaptability to the purposes to which they are devoted.

The frontage to the offices and seed stores in the Market Place, notwithstanding
the boldness of its design and the beauty of its decorations, conveys a very inade-
quate idea of the extent of the premises, or of the immensity of the business trans-
acted therein. A visitor to Reading, unacquainted with the operations of the firm
—if that were possible—would probably be struck by the elegance and commanding
appearance of the facade; but be would little imagine that behind are ranges of

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 217

offices and warehouses in capacity, as well as in other particulars, without an equal.
They constitute of themselves a little town, with quite an army of workers to give
life and reality to the scene. On entering the retail stores, one cannot fail to be
struck with their light and airy appearance, and the facilities which exist for the
rapid execution of orders. After passing through this department, and proceeding
along a passage, we come to two ranges of offices, one on each side. That on the
right is the Ledger Office, some sixty feet in length ; and on the left, is a private
office for the firm, and farther on, the office for transacting business wita the railway
and other carrying companies, and also the general foreign trade. It will, perhaps,
afford our readers some idea of the extent of the business transactions of the Messrs.
Sutton if we say that during the spring season, when seeds of all kinds are in most
request, from 800 to 1000 letters are received daily, entailing, it need hardly be said,
an immense amount of office work.

Preceeding to the next floor by means of an iron staircase, we find first of all
on the right a room about sixty feet in length, devoted to stationery and other office
stores ; and immediately in front, a large room provided for the recreation of the
employés. In this the people meet for prayer every morning; and at intervals,
during the winter season, lectures and other entertainments are given. Close by is
the Reading-room, as bright and cheerful as a gentleman’s library, with two noble
fireplaces in carved stone and encaustic tiles ; the floor comfortably carpeted, and
the tables well supplied with news and horticultural papers, and periodical lite-
rature. There are also bagatelle and chess-boards for the use of those who frequent
the reading-room.

Leaving these rooms we pass on to the Garden-seed Department, and in this we
find that every convenience suggested by long experience has been provided for the
expeditious execution of the orders, The principal chamber in this department is
quite a hundred feet in length, lofty, and of proportionate width, and is fitted up
with innumerable drawers. ‘Two of the chambers are devoted to the collections of
garden seeds, which are found so convenient to amateurs, and for which this firm
has so long been famous, both for the liberality and judgment with which they are
made up. In the season may be seen in these rooms some thousands of these col-
lections, ready for transmission when the “‘rush’”’? comes—and come it does, every
year. Every one requires their principal stock of seed at the same time ; and few
indeed are those who send in their order many days before the seeds are required
for sowing. Consequently, the resources of the establishment—vast as they are—
are taxed to the utmost in the busy season; and, unless ample preparations were
made beforehand, the work would undoubtedly obtain the mastery. During the
seed season the orders come in at the rate of between 400 and 500 a-day, and it is
one of the principles of the firm to have the day’s work done in the day. Were it
otherwise, the orders would accumulate at such a rapid rate, that the execution of a
goodly proportion of the orders would at length become impossible until an advanced
period of theseason. The Flower-seed Department is like the one devoted to vege-
table seeds, fitted up with every possible convenience ; and in the season may be seen
tens of thousands of packets of seeds, already prepared for packing in collections or
otherwise. Here a separate staff is employed, for the business in flower seeds is
simply enormous ; especially in the choice strains of calceolarias, primulas, cine-
rarias, and cyclamens. Beyond this department are the Bulb-rooms, in which the
vast quantities of bulbs, as they are received from Holland, are stored. The bulb
season lasts from August until the beginning of the new year; and, as a rule, those
who purchase late expect to have bulbs of as good a quality as those who buy early,
In recognition of the fact that it is the duty of the trader to always provide the
customer with a good article—no matter how much the customer may be to blame
for deferring the order until an unreasonably late period —the Messrs. Sutton have
in practice some ingenious methods for preserving the bulbs for a long time without
starting into growth, or becoming mildewed. An equable temperature is, in the
first place, maintained by the vast mass of stone, brick, and timber of the stores
themselves, and the perfect ventilation of the whole fabric. In the second place,
every separate lot of bulbs is kept in a large basket of light wickerwork, which
admits air all round, and in the centre, passing through the mass of bulbs, is a tube
of wire netting, which again brings air into the mass. The reserves are then shut
up in compartments with sliding doors. The result of this management is to favour
a dormant condition, for exhaustive evaporation is prevented, and at the same time
the bulbs are kept so dry and cool, that they are most reluctant to grow until potted

July.

2918 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

or planted, and are thus placed under the conditions most favourable to a new
growth.

The orders for agricultural seeds are executed on the same floor as the garden
seeds, which is unquestionably a great convenience, and needless running to and fro
is avoided, for frequently garden and agricultural seeds are sent for by customers
at the same time. To keep this floor constantly supplied with seeds from the ware-
houses above and below is a prime necessity ; and one of the aids thereto is a new
lift worked by steam. With the assistance of this lift a waggon coming into the
yard can be quickly unloaded, and the seeds sent to the topmost or other floor; and
in the same manner, the vans can be quickly loaded with hampers, boxes, and
parcels from the packing department.

The Packing-room, in which the various parcels are put into hampers and boxes,
and the room in which the hampers are directed and despatched, are necessarily of
an immense size. Crossing over a bridge, we come to the stores, in which seeas of
various kinds are kept in bulk, and the potato-store. The latter is exceedingly in-
teresting, owing to the manner in which it is fitted up for the preservation of the
seed-potatoes in the best possible condition for planting, After passing the long
range of stabling and yards provided for the spacious vans, and proceeding about
a hundred yards, we come to the agricultural seed store, which has a handsome
frontage to the King’s Road. This building is nearly 200 feet in length, and has
three floors, and preparations are again being made for further extension. Here,
in the early part of the season, may be seen hundreds of tons of mangel, swede,
and turnip seeds, for the trade in agricultural seeds is co-extensive with the trade
in garden and flower seeds.

On the London Road, at a distance of about a mile from the town of Reading,
the Messrs. Sutton have an extensive trial farm, and this may be seen from the
Great Western and South-Western railways. During the summer season the trial
farm is brilliant with masses of annvals, and blocks of turnips in bloom. The most
interesting part, however, consists in the hundreds of rows of beans, peas, beetroots,
carrots, cabbage, lettuce, potatoes, and other vegetables, grown exclusively for trial.
The germinating power of every parcel of seeds received from the growers is tested
under glass previous to any portion being retailed; and the trial at the farm is for the
purpose of testing the relative value of varieties, and the purity of the stocks received
from the growers, and in consequence the absolute purity and genuineness of the seed
is placed beyond doubt.

In concluding this brief notice of Messrs. Sutton’s establishment, it will perhaps
be interesting to add that the firm now consists of Mr. Martin Hope Sutton, Mr.
Alfred Sutton, and Mr. Martin John Sutton. It was founded about seventy years
ago, by Mr. John Sutton, the father of the two senior partners. The seed business
was then limited almost exclusively to agricultural seeds ; and these were, according
to the usual custom, procured from the wholesale dealers. On the admission of Mr.
Martin Hope Sutton and Mr. Alfred Sutton into partnership, some 25 years since, the
garden-seed departments were added ; and the former, seeing the disadvantages of
procuring the seeds through the wholesale houses, because of the adulteration then so
largely practised, determined to obtain the seed direct from the growers who supplied
the London wholesale houses, to enable the firm to sell seed genuine, pure, and un-
adulterated. After some difficulty, arrangements were made, and eventually a con-
siderable number of growers were selected to produce seeds specially for the firm,
and under its constant supervision. The Messrs. Sutton have now several thousand
‘acres under cultivation for the express purpose of growing seeds for supplying their
customers, who amount to upwards of 50,000, in the United Kingdom, India,
America, the Colonies, and other parts of the world. From Italy, France, and
Germany, vast quantities of flower and other seeds that ripen best in these countries,
are obtained annually; and the growers of these, as well as of other seeds in this
country, are regularly visited by a member of the firm.

The Messrs. Sutton were amongst the principal promoters of the Bill to prevent
the adulteration of seeds, which was passed in 1869; and to the fact of their sup-
plying seeds pure, genuine, and unadulterated, they attribute the large extension
which is annually made in their business.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 219

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR JULY.

Flowers ! when the Saviour’s calm benignant eye
Fell on your gentle beauty: when from you
That heavenly lesson for all hearts he drew,
Eternal, universal, as the sky ;

Then, in the bosom of your purity
A voicc he set as in a temple-shrine,
That Jife’s quick travellers ne’er might pass you by,
Unwarned of that sweet oracle divine.

And though too oft its low celestial sound,
By the harsh notes of work-day care is drowned,
And the loud steps of vain, unlistening haste;

Yet the great Ocean hath no tone of power
Mightier to reach the soul in thought’s bush’d hour
Than yours, meek lilies, chosen thus and graced.

Mrs, Hemays,

=\GAPANTHUS to have abundance of water while throwing up flower-
¥l spikes, and until the bloom is over; then to be shaken out and
parted, and the strongest crowns selected for next year’s bloom. Pot
these singly in small pots, removing with a sharp knife any of the
straggling roots that cannot be got into the pots. The soil should be
sandy loam, rotten dung, and peat, equal quantities.

Broccont must now be got out to furnish a supply during autumn. Manure
liberally, and if the planting is done in dry weather, give water as abundantly as
possible, Better, however, to get the ground ready and wait for showers.

Carnations, Picorrrs, AND Pinks to be propagated largely now from layers
and pipings, both easy and certain methods.

CavLirLoweR.—Plant out and hoe between those coming forward, but do not
earth up the stems except of such as are loose at the collar.

CrLeEry newly planted will require abundance of water. Plant out as fast as
possible, if any left in beds or pots. The fly has not seriously damaged the crop
this season, and where it has not appeared there is now no further danger, and the
late celery js likely to escape altogether.

CINERAPIAS coming up in seed-pans to be pricked out as soon as large enough
to lift, and have separate thumb-pots, with light rich compost, and be put in a
frame to grow cr.

CurysanTHEMuMs require liquid manure now, and frequent sprinkling over=
head. Tie out as fast as the side-shoots break, for if they once harden out of shape
it is no easy matter to restore them to a proper form.

Conservatory will require air night and day, unless there are many stove
plants, in which case shut up while the snn is on the house. Use water in plenty,
and liquid manure wherever it seems to be required.

Cucumprrs must have steady bottom-heat to produce fine fruit. It is a common
fallacy that when the weather becomes warm the beds may be left to cool down,
but it is rarely fine fruit are cut from frames that are never lined after the first
heat is out.

Frvir Garpen.—Put netting over currants, gooseberries, and cherries, to keep
the birds from the fruit.

_ Fucusias must be syringed once or twice a day, and have moderate shade.
Fine plants in comparatively small pots will be greatly benefited-with weak liquid
manure every three or four days.

GreEennovusE HerBaceous Prants, such as Cinerarias, Primulas, herbaceous

alceolarias, etc., must have frequent attention now. Let seedlings be pricked
out into pans or singly in thumb pots ; shift cuttings and rooted suckers.

_ Harp-wooprp Pants requiring a shift this season must have it at once, or the
time will go by for them to derive full benefit from the operation. The most im-
portant matter of all is to secure good drainage, and to use the compost in as rough
‘a state as possible consistent with the size and nature of the plant.

Harpy Herpsacrous Puants of all kinds may be propagated now from seeds
and cuttings.

Hanpy Srrvns of all kinds may be propagated by layers or cuttings, the latter
preferably, and the smaller the better if the shoots are firm.

July,

220 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Metons need a brisk bottom-heat to ripen the fruit, and to be kept rather dry.
Those swelling fruit to be encouraged with a lining, and a moderate amount of
atmospheric moisture. Keep the vines regularly traimed, so that the leaves are
exposed to light, as wherever they are crowded the fruit will be found to damp off.

OrcHIDs require now a free circulation of air to ripen the spring growth. Use
as little shading as possible, and keep the air moist by watering the paths and
borders in the afternoon; after which shut up.

PANSIES to be propagated from cuttings of young wood; the old hollow stems
are quite unfit for the purpose. Beds to be planted to stand over winter should
now be deeply dug and manured, which will tend to reduce wireworm, as they will
be turned up in the process and be destroyed.

PEacHEs ripening off to be kept as cool as possible; hot sunshine and close air
will spoil the flavour and cause the fruit to fall.

PELARGONIUMS, as they go out of bloom, to be cut down, and placed in a warm,
sheltered, and rather shady place for a week, then to be put in the full sun, and kept
rather dry at the root, with occasional sprinklings of the stems and leaves till they
break, and then to be repotted back into small pots with sound iumpy turf to make
their new roots in.

Piyrs should have every needful attention now, as at this season plenty of
growth may be secured for the succession plants. Those swelling their fruit will
need the help of liquid manure and atmospheric moisture, with a good steady heat.

RaspPBeRRizs to have their suckers reduced to three or four to every stool ;
those left will rise strong and ripen their wood well, but a forest of spray will be
all weak alike,

Roses require now to be pruned back, and have a mulch, and plenty of water
to assist the autumn bloom. Cuttings of half-ripe shoots of most of the perpetuals
may be put in towards the end of the month. Buds to be entered on briars with
discretion ; the bark must be firm, or the work cannot be done properly.

STRAWBERRIES.—Plant out tbe first lot of well-rooted runners in ground well
manured, and shade for a week and keep well watered ; these will at once form
good crowns, and bear well next season.

TREE Onrons need a little support, as the crop is apt to fall over and be preyed
upon by snails. The top bulbs are the best of all onions for pickling,

Vines in early houses to be kept rather dry to promote the ripeniug of the
wood, and to have plenty of air. In late houses encourage quick ripening, keeping
up the heat, and ventilate well to prevent damp and mildew. Water and mulch
the borders of late houses, and by all means abstain from cropping the borders, as
the practice is most injurious to the roots of the vines, the best of which are near
the surface,

Winter Greens to be planted out at every opportunity. It is most important
to put out good breadths of Brussels sprouts as early as possible.

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

za)RYSTAL PALACE FLOWER SHOW, on May 29, was a glorious
]| success, for there was an abundance of the staple subjects of a great
sammer exhibition, and a large concourse of visitors. Stove and
greenhouse plants in bloom, which form such an important feature at
the May and June exhibitions, were largely represented. Azaleas
were so abundant as to make an attractive display. Pot roses were better than
usual. Orchids were more plentiful than is customary at the metropolitan exhi-
bitions, and materially enhanced the attractiveness and interest of the exhibition.
Fine foliage plants were numerous, and the specimens of which they consisted
remarkably fine. Pelargoniums were fairly represented, and made a fine display.
The groups of plants arranged for effect were more numerous, of greater extent,
and generally the arrangements were more tasteful than usual, and they in
consequence jorm a more important element than in any previous year. Not the
least attractive feature of the exhibition was the group of fine-foliage plants in

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 291

front of the stage, arranged by Mr. Thomson, the‘ superintendent of the
horticultural department of the Crystal Palace. It consisted of Palms, Tree-ferns,
and of ornamental-leaved plants of large growth, and the group was neatly finished
off with dwarf-growing plants.

Royat HorricurturaL Socrery’s Great Summer Snow, on June 2, as
compared with similar exhibitions held at South Kensington in previous years, was
a very small affair, and the efforts of a few of the nurserymen resident in the
neighbourhood alone prevented its being a complete failure. Flowering plants, with
the exception of those in two or three collectious of no importance, were entirely
absent, and the exhibition consisted almost exclusively of ornamental-leaved plants.
One of the most attractive features of the exhibition was a large bank of plants
arranged for effect by Mr. J, Wills, of Onslow Crescent, who was awarded a Gold
Medal. There were a few good dishes of grapes and other fruit, and several
collections of Peas were staged in competition for the prizes offered by Messrs.
Sutton and Sons, and Messrs. J. Carterand Co. In the several collections, Sutton’s
Bijou, Carter’s Extra Early Premium Gem, Laxton’s William the First, Sutton’s
Early Emerald, and Laxton’s Unique, were well represented. Two magnificent
collections of hardy ferns were exhibited, and as the varieties represented comprise
the cream of those in cultivation, some of our readers will probably be interested in
a list of the names of the varieties in{the first prize collection, which was staged by
Messrs. Ivery and Son, of Dorking, Surrey. They were as follows :—Athyrium
filix-foemina Fieldz, A. f.-f. corymbiferum, A. f.-f. pulcherrimum, A. f.-f. plumosum,
A. f.-f, formosa-cristatum, Polystichum angulare decurrens, P. a. Wollastoni,
Lastrea filix-mas Bollandae, L. f.-m. grandiceps, L. f.-m. cristata, and Osmunda
regalis cristata.

Tue Present Position or THE Roya Horticutrurar Soctery.—A meeting
of the fellows of the Royal Horticultural Society, convened by the Lindley Club (late
the Horticultural Club), was held on the 16th ult., at the Charing Cross Hotel, “to
consider the present position and prospects of the Society.” Mr. A. F. Godson, of
the Inner Temple, presided. The chairman said the object of the meeting was to
prepare a practical scheme which would extricate the Society from its difficulties,
and then called upon Mr. Shirley Hibberd to address the meeting, Mr. Hibberd
having detailed the history of the Society, said the fellows were tied up in a scheme
which had failed from the first. They could not sell their land to speculative
builders, and they had no available assets, and, in fact, they had nothing which
they could carry into the open market. In making proposals for improving the
position of the Society, he considered it of the very first importance to honour
existing covenants, to perform all duties prescribed by the charter, to make the
best of the lease, the best of the Society’s relations with the Commissioners of the
Exhibition of 1862, and the very best of the local fellows. To reconstract the
Society on a sound basis the London garden must be kept in the most perfect con-
dition possible ; improvements should be made in the garden by which the expen-
diture would amount to £17,000 per year. It was simply impossible that the
Society could pay its way at the present rates of subscription. He proposed that the
subscriptions for the fellows residing within a mile of the gardens at Kensington
should be £10 10s. annually. The raising of the subscriptions would tend to
enhance the value of the attractions by restricting the enjoyment of them to aselect
company. He believed his scheme, if carried out in a spirited manner, would
result in raising the Society’s income from subscriptions of fellows alone to £20,000,
which would leave an ample margin for the redemption of the debenture debt.
Assuming that only 1000 fellows joined at £10 10s., it would realize 10,000 guineas.
The exhibitions, life compositions, admissions to‘gardens, and miscellaneous receipts,
would bring the income up to £20,000, and, as the working expenses would be
£17,000, there would be a balance of £3000 to pay off the debt. The gardens, in
his opinion, should be made the most beautiful town gardens in the world. He
moved, ‘‘ That in any scheme which may be promoted with a view to the restoration
of the Reyal Horticultural Society to its original high position, the annual sub-
scription of fellows within one mile of the gardens at South Kensington should be
fixed at a minimum rate of Ten Guineas, and that the fellows’ tickets should be
used only by resident members of the families of fellows.” Mr. 8S. H. Godson
suggested that the fellows should get up a subscription for the benefit of the Society.
Mr. Hibberd, in answer to a question, said he would not disturb the existing

July,

999 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

fellows, but all future fellows should pay £10 10s. per year. The resolution was
then put and carried. It was decided that the same should be forwarded to the
council of the Society.

Tur Royat Boranic Socrery had, on June 16, a grand exhibition of Stove and
Greenhouse plants in bloom, Orchids, Pelargoniums, Cape Heaths, and new plants,
to which all the principal exhibitors in the neighbourhood of the metropolis con-
tributed. It was visited by the Sultan of Zanzibar, and suite, who appeared to
take a great interest in the various subjects of which the exhibition consisted.

' ‘Mr. Witx1am Coz, who for many years past has been one of the principal
contributors to the pages of the FLorat WorzD, will retire from the management
of the gardens and grounds of Ealing Park, a post he has so worthily occupied
during the past ten years, to enable him to devote the whole of his attention to the
production of grapes for market, and the cultivation of vines in pots for planting
and fruiting. He has purchased a freehold at Feltham, and has erected thereon a
number of vineries, which are mostly planted, and the vines in some of them are
now coming into bearing. The Muscat of Alexandria and Lady Downes are planted
the most extensively ; the first-mentioned variety—with which, by the way, Mr.
Cole has achieved his deservedly high reputation as a grape-grower—largely pre-
dominating. The vines grown for sale in pots will consist of the varieties most in
demand. Of these there is already a fine stock, and, as they are grown entirely
without bottom-heat, they are well furnished with fibrous roots. Mr. Cole’s place
of business will be known as “ The Grove Vineyard,” Feltham, and is about half a
mile distant from the Feltham station on the Staines and Windsor branch of the
London and South-Western Railway.

THomson’s TREATISE ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE-VINE has reached
its eighth edition. A book of this kind making eight editions in twelve years does
not need a recommendation—it is past that sort of thing; but the fact must be
recorded as of some importance in the history of horticultural literature.

AssisTaNT-DirEctor For Kew Garprns.—A sum of £500 has been included
in the estimates as a salary for an assistant-director of Kew Gardens. Professor
Thistleton Dyer, who has for some time past acted as secretary to Dr. Hooker, has
been appointed to the office.

Tur Executive CoMMITTEE FoR THE INTERNATIONAL HorticuttuRAL Exut-
BITION AT CoLoGNeE, which opens next month, informs us that the work is proyress-
ing steadily in the Exhibition grounds; the great flower and fruit hall is almost
completed, and the hall for machinery will be ready in a short time. The founda-
tions for the glass houses—eight of which have been already announced—are nearly
finished. The ground has been prepared, and beds cut out for the roses, flowers,
and plants in general in the Exhibition ground joining the Flora. Some of the
ground has been already planted, and the plants are flourishing. To guard against
the possibility of causing the spread of the Phylloxera, it has been determined to
exclude grapes and grape-vines from the Exhibition.

Tar ANNIVERSARY MEETING OF THE Linnean Socrety has been recently held,
when the following officers were elected; G. J. Allman, M.D., President; J. G.
Jeffreys, LL.D., Treasurer; and Frederick Currey, Esq., and St. George J. Mivart,
Esq., Secretaries. The financial condition of the Society is very healthy, and in no
year has more been done in the way of publication. ‘The new President delivered
an address on the history and development of the Infusoria, in the course of which
he showed that the tendency of modern research was in favour of the descent of all
existing animal forms from two separate types. It was also shown that particular
structures are common to the whole of the members of each group, and that though
not necessarily present in the adult stage, they were so at some stage or another of
the creature’s existence.

Tue Cottection or Maprrra Prants formed by the late Rev. Mr. Lowe will
be divided between the botanical establishment at Kew and that at the British
Museum.

AzorEAN FRuirs.—From the Azores journal, “O Cultivador,” we find that,
between October, 1874, and March, 1875, there were despatched from the Azores to
various ports, chiefly English, 133,306 cases of oranges, excluding Tangierines.
Of these 14,446 were sent to Bristol, 56,965 to London, 4315 to Liverpool, and
29,333 to Hull. Of pine-apples, 1189 were imported into Bristol, 5420 into London,
197 into Liverpool, and 1212 into Hull.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 223

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

A. H. A.—If the lawn is overrun with the coarse grass of which we have re-
ceived specimens, the only effectual course to take will be to pare the turf and burn
it, and then either sow grass seeds or lay new turf. This should be done in the
autumn. Ifthe grass appears in patches only, remove these patches with a spade
or trowel; then place a little fine soil in the hollows formed, and sow lawn grass
seeds thickly. Again, if the coarse grass is scattered thinly over the lawn, the tufts
may be removed with a small hand-fork, and this may be done without injuriously
disturbing the turf. A little fine soil and a sprinkling of grass seeds should be put in
the place of every tuft of the coarse grass removed. A suitable mixture of grass
seeds may be obtained of the principal firms, such as Messrs. Sutton and Son’s,
of Reading.

R. F. P., Chipping Norton.—The specimen was received in such a shrivelled
state, that it was quite past identification.

Hergaceous Prants.— Lady Inquirer.—Seeds of all hardy herbaceous plants
may be sown with advantage this month. Select a rather shady border, make the
- surface soil rather fine, and then sow thinly in drills; and if the soil is at all dry,
moisten the soil in the drills by pouring water in them. When the plants are about
an inch or so in height, transplant into nursery beds and prick them out three or
four inches apart. An open and sheltered position should be selected for the nursery
beds, as the plants wiJl have to remain in them throughout the winter, and be
planted in the borders and beds in March or April of the year following, according
to the state of the soil.

Carnivorous Prants.—K. S.—The plants which are reputed carnivorous, and
are said to have the power of digesting flies, meat, etc., are the Side-saddle Plants,
or Sarracentas ; the Hast India Pitcher-Plants, or Nepenthes; and the Venus’s
Fly-trap, or Dionea muscipula. The majority of the Sarracenias require a tem-
perature intermediate between that of the greenhouse and the stove, as also does the
New Holland Pitcher-Plant, Cephalotus follicularis, which is one of the most
beautiful pitcher-plants in existence, and well adapted to the requirements of ama-
teurs, as a well-developed specimen occupies very little space, and may be grown in
a lower temperature than either of the Nepenthes. One of the Sarracenias (S. pur-
purea), is quite hardy ; but in most cases it will be found more advantageous to
grow it in a pot and keep it in a cold frame. The Nepenthes require a high
temperature and an abundance of moisture, both at the roots and in the atmosphere,
during the greater part of the year. The finest trade collection of Sarracenias in
the country is undoubtedly that in the nursery of Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper
Holloway, and the largest and best collection of Nepenthes is that in the nursery
of Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, King’s Road, Chelsea. This firm devotes a large
house to the cultivation of these plants; and during the greater part of the year it
has a wonderfully attractive and interesting appearance, tor the collection comprises
many hundreds of plants, the majority of which bear several pitchers each.

ENEMIES OF THE APPLE-TREE.— Maggie Reid.—The trees are most probably
attacked by the larve or caterpillars of the Winter Moth (Hylernia brumata),
which feed upon the buds and flowers, as well as on the leaves. When newly
hatched, the caterpillars are very small; but they increase in size with age, and
ultimately become half an inch or so in length. They are of a greyish colour when
young, an change to a yellowish green by the time they are full grown. About
the end of May the caterpillars let themselves down by a thread, and bury them-
selves in the ground to a depth of two or three inches, and change into pupe. In
November or the following month the perfect insect comes forth, and the females
proceed at once to deposit the eges on the trees. The females are wingless, and
must ascend the trees by crawling up the stem, ‘They may therefore be caught b
putting a band of some textile fabric round the stem a short distance from the
ground, and smearing it with tar or birdlime. The band should be put round the
tree at the beginning of November, and additional tar or birdlime smeared over it
at intervals as may appear necessary until January. Removing the surface soil to
a depth of four inches early in October, and burying it in a deep trench, may be
resorted to for destroying the insect in the pupa state. Apple-trees have the leaves
frequently eaten by the caterpillars of the “Figure of Hight” Moth (Episema

July.

224 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

cwruleocephala). The caterpillars make their appearance in the spring, and at
once commence their devastations. They are about two inches long when full
grown, of a yellowish green colour, and have a bluish head, and one dorsal and two
lateral pale yellow stripes. In June they form a case of moss or chips of wood, on
the trees, or in the crevices of adjoining walls, and change into the pupa state.
The moths appear in October and November, and soon afterwards deposit their eggs
on the trees. The removal of the caterpillars by hand picking is the only known
remedy that is at all effectual in the destruction of this pest. The caterpillar of the
small Ermine Apple Moth, Yponomenta malivorella, also sometimes do considerable
mischief. They devour the leaves in spring and the early part of the summer, and
at the same time cover the shoots and branches with thick webs. In these they
spin a cocoon, and change into the chrysalis state. About the end of June a white
moth appears. The only remedy is to catch and destroy the moth and the cater-
pillars. As the caterpillars are rather sluggish during the day, it has been recom-
ea to lay a sheet underneath the trees, and tap the branches sharply with a

ick, to shake them on to the sheet, when there will be no difficulty in destroying
them. Later in the season, apple-trees which have escaped the attacks of the
enemies described above, sometimes suffer from the caterpillars of the Brown Moth
(Clisiocampa Americana). These are hatched towards the end of May, and for
six or seven weeks they feed upon the leaves, sometimes completely stripping the
trees. The only known reme@y is hand picking, which is both tedious and unplea.
sant. If the trees are badly infested, numbers may be frequently shaken off the
trees, and when on the ground, destroyed. As tle caterpillars of so many moths
feed upon the leaves of the apple-tree, we cannot do more than direct your atten-
tion to them, and give a brief description to assist you in their identification, and
point to the most practicable remedies.

Sattep Lawn.—W., East Yorkshire—You can do nothing but wait for the
rains, which will encourage the grasses that have not been injured by the action
of the salt to make a vigorous growth, and obviate the brown patches. The lawn
will be more or less unsightly until the autumn, when the turf will again present
a uniform appearance. The query was not received in time for answer in the June
number ; and we cannot undertake to answer queries through the post, however
desirous we may be to assist our readers in their difficulties.

EXHIBITIONS TO BE HELD IN JULY.

1.—Wansteap Horticurruran Socrety.—Axanual Exhibition.

1 10 5 (except Sunday).—Miptanp Countries Granp Horticuttrurant Exur-
BITION.—In the Lower Grounds, Aston Park, Birmingham.

1 & 2.—Spatpinc Horticutrurat Socrety.—Annual Exhibition.

1.—Sr. Pauip’s Winpow Garven Society, Bristor.— Annual Eerhibition.

2.—GaRDENERS’ Royat BeNEVoLENT InsrituTIon.— Anniversary Festival at
the London Tavern.

3.—SouTHeatTe HorticutturaL Society.—Annual Lerhibition.

3.—Westr Kent Horticuttrurat Socirery.— Annual Exhibition,

6 & 7.—Brentwoop Horticutturat Society.— Annual Erhibition.

6 & 7.—GRaANTHAM AND Sourn Lincormnsurre Horricunturan SoctrtTy.—
Annual Exhibition.

7.—Royat Horticutturat Soctery.— Exhibition of Cut Roses, and Meeting of
the Fruit, Floral, and Scientific Committees.

7 & 8—Dwuruam Horricurrurat Society.— Annual Exhibition.

8.—FRoME.—Rose Show.

8.—RicuMonp Horticotrurat Socrety.—First Annual Exhibition.

8.—Eatine anp Acton HorrticutturaL Socrery.—Annual Exhibition.

8.—Bury Sr. Epmunps anp West Svurrotk HorticurturaL SocietTy.—
Summer Show.

8 & 9.—Mancuester Boranican anp Horricutrurat Society. — Special
Evening Fete and Exhibition of Table Decorations, etc., at Old Trafford.

8 ro 10.—Norrixeaam ArsoretuM. — Horticultural Exhibition and Rose
Show.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 225

CHOICE FLOWERING TREES AND SHRUBS.
BY ALEXANDER M‘KENZIE,
Landscape Gardener, Alexandra Palace, Muswell Hill, N.
(With Coloured Iilustration of Weigela Middendorffiana purpurata.)

eye) NGLISH gardens are, as a rule, sadly deficient in trees
and shrubs which, in the course of the season, produce
a profusion of flowers, and when in bloom have such a
bright and beautiful appearance as to add very mate-
rially to the general effect. In planting pleasure-
grounds and parks, an undue preference is given to trees and shrubs
that are common and do not produce a flower worth seeing, and this
in a large measure may be attributed to the fact that but few people,
comparatively speaking, are well acquainted with the choicer kinds of
ornamental treesand shrubs. Even many of our best gardeners are
not so well versed in the matter as cne would expect; but this need
not cause any surprise, or be taken as in any way reflecting upon
their abilities. To become thoroughly acquainted with the finest of
our trees and shrubs, especially those remarkable for the beauty of
their flowers, it is needful that one should be constantly on the wing,
and pay frequent visits to the best nurseries, botanic gardens, and
private parks and pleasure-grounds that have been planted out under
the superintendence of a first-class landscape gardener ; and need it
be said, gardeners who. pay strict attention to their duties, have but
few opportunities for going far away from home. For many years
past I have paid rather more than ordinary attention to the class of
trees and shrubs under consideration, and in laying out public parks
and private gardens that have been entrusted to me, 1 have been
careful to include a fair proportion, and the results are most satis-
factory. It is not, of course, desirable that they should be planted
ont of proportion, or to the exclusion of other good things, such as
the choicer evergreens and conifere ; but there are but few gardens
in which a very cousiderable number indeed may not be planted with
advantage.

Previous to pointing out a few of the best, and indicating the
situations for which they are best adapted, I would say that I have
purposely avoided all reference to roses, rhododendrons, kalmias,
and other classes of shrubs that are peculiar in their requirements.
These should, of course, have a place in all good gardens ; but my
object in writing this is to indicate a few meritorious subjects that
are but little known amongst the great body of amateur cultivators,
and not to those things with which every one is acquainted, and that
are justly appreciated.

I will speak, first of all, of the trees which merit attention, and
should be grown everywhere. First we have dsculus rubicunda
fi. pl., the double-flowered scarlet Chestnut ; and as it does not produce
nuts, and thrives in smoky districts, it is especially adapted for the
neighbourhood of towns.

August,

16

226: THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE...

Amelanchier botryapium, commonly known as the Snowy
Mespilus, produces an abundance of white flowers in spring, and is
very ornamental, and should have a prominent position.

Amygdalus persica fl. pl., the double-flowered Peach, is one of
the finest flowering trees of small size we have, for it is extremely
neat and extravagantly showy, and well adapted for second lines in
small borders. There are several varieties, but the crimson and the
white are the most effective.

Caialpa syringefolia is a grand tree for an isolated position in
the park contiguous to the pleasure-grounds, for it has large hand-
some leafage, and in July and August bears great panicles of white
flowers.

Cerasus padus, CU. domestica fl. pl., and C. mahaleb, are three
cherries, profuse in flowering, and very beautiful ; the second is the
best, and in a small state is very ornamental, in pots, for conserva-
tory decoration.

Olethera alnifolia and C. paniculata are two “ Snowdrop trees,’
auite hardy, and valuable acquisitions. These must not be con-
founded with OC. arborea and other kinds that are tender, and require
to be grown in the conservatory.

Corylopsis spicata is a beautiful Japanese tree, of small growth,
the leaves bright green, the wood reddish, and the catkins, which
are produced early in spring, yellowish white.

Crategus orycantha produces an abundant variety, and the best
for small gardens are the Single Scarlet, Double Crimson, Double
Pink, and Double White. The double-flowered Thorns are extrava-
gantly showy when in bloom, and adapted for single specimens on
the lawn, for prominent positions in the shrubbery, and for_massing,
to produce a distinct effect in park scenery.

Cytissus laburnum is the common Laburnum; (. alpinus is the
Scotch Laburnum, rather stronger in growth than the preceding,
and later in coming into bloom. Both are suitable for lawn or park
trees, and also for grouping in the shrubbery borders.

Gleditschia tricanthos, the well-known Honey Locust, is a fine
town tree, and worthy of a select position in a country garden.

Koelreuteria paniculata is one of the most beautiful trees known.
It is of moderate size, has elegant pinnate leaves, the flowers are
bright yellow, and followed with large, reddish bladdery pods, which
are also ornamental.

Pyrus malus baccata bears an abundance of rosy flowers in spring,
and of bright red crabs in the autumn. P. malus floribunda blooms
very freely, the buds being of a rich crimson, and the expanded
flowers white, presenting a charming contrast of colour. P. salici-
folia has white flowers, and P. inalus spectabilis semi-double flowers,
of a bright red colour in the bud, and pale rose when expanded.
These are four of the most beautiful flowering trees of small
stature in existence, and should be planted freely in prominent
positions.

The finest of the shrubs remarkable for the beauty of their
flowers, and that should be planted extensively wherever room can
be found for them, are comprised in the following selection :—

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 227

Berberis Darwini, B. dulcis, and B. stenophylla, are all remark-~
able for neatness of habit, and the profusion of rich yellow flowers
produced during the early spring months. They are all well suited
for planting in masses at intervals along the front of shrubberies,
as they have a gocd effect, even when not in bloom.

Chimonanthus fragrans is desirable because of its blooming im
winter, and the delicious fragrance of its flowers. It requires: a
south wall for its cultivation. Oistus ladaniferus, well known as the
Gum Cistus, is one of the finest of dwarf shrubs for a hot, dry
bank, or a sunny position on a large rockery ; the flowers, which are
white, with crimson spots at the base, are quite three inches across,
and borne in profusion when the plants are in a suitable situation,

Cydonia japonica may be grown in the form of a bush in the shrub-
bery, or be trained to a wall or fence, and in every case has a very
interesting appearance early in the Spring when in bloom. The
variety known as princeps has deep scarlet flowers, and the double
white known as/flore albo is useful for the sake of variety, although
less effective than those with high-coloured flowers. Cytissus albus
is a neat growing shrub, extremely graceful in habit, bearing a pro-
fusion of white flowers in May, and in every way suitable for single
specimens on the lawn, or for prominent positions in the shrubbery
borders.

Daphne eneorum and D. mezereum are the most useful of this
genus ; the first is a low-growing evergreen, bearing pink flowers,
and requiring peat; and the other is deciduous, and bears its
purplish flowers before the leaves are developed. Deutzia ere-
nata and D. scabra are two pretty, neat shrubs for front lines, and
although they are as cheap as lilacs, they are not often met with in
private gardens. Diervilla canadensis is closely allied to the
Weigelas ; the flowers are purplish red, and not unlike those of a
small fuchsia.

Escallonia macrantha is very beautiful in warm, sheltered situa-
tions, as also is Hmbothrium coceineum, but both are too tender for
the neighbourhood of London.

Lorsythia suspensa and F. viridissima are usetul shrubs for front
lines, bearing a plentiful profusion of yellow flowers early in the
season.

Hydrangeas, of which H. hortensis, H. Otaksa, and H. panicu-
lata grandiflora are the best, are useful for masses in front lines.
The first-mentioned is a fine dwarf shrub for front rows, as demon-
strated by the examples in the gardens of the Royal Horticultural
Society at South Kensington. Some of the groups of shrubs are
surrounded with a belt of Hydrangeas; and as they bloom superbly
every year, they produce a rich effect. They are especially good
this year. The second kind mentioned is not well known, and it
may be useful to say that it bears globose heads of pink flowers,
ranging from ten to twenty inches in diameter, according to the
strength of the plants.

Philadelphus coronarius and its double variety bear, during May
and June, an abundance of white, sweet-scented flowers; and as
they do very well planted at the back of other shrubs, they are

August,

228 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

exceedingly useful. P. Gordonianus is later than the others, and
has the showiest flowers, but they are quite scentless. Prunus tri-
loba is one of the prettiest of spring-flowering shrubs; the flowers
are in the form of neat rosettes, and of a delicate pink colour.

Syringa vulgaris Charles X., 8S. vulgaris Dr. Lindley, and S. vul-
garis alba, are, perhaps, the most valuable of the lilacs. The two
first mentioned are grand varieties of the common lilac, and should
be planted in preference to all others.

The Guelder Rose, Viburnum opulus, and the more recently
introduced V. plicatwm, are two strong-growing shrubs, useful for
grouping with others in large masses. The last-mentioned has the
largest flowers, which also are the purest in colour.

The Wetgelas are very beautiful in kind climates, where they
have a chance of growing to a considerable size, but they are tender
in the neighbourhood of London, and further north. They suffer
so much from spring frosts when on cold, damp soils, that, in the
course of a few years, they perish outright. W. amabilis, and its
beautiful variety rosea, are both well known. W. Middendorffiana
purpurata isa variety at present but little known in this country,
and well deserving of the attention of cultivators residert in shel-
tered situations, where Weigelas, and other plants of a similar
character, thrive. The flowers are rich in colour, and well estab-
lished plants have a most beautiful appearance when in full bloom.

THE ENEMIES OF THE ELM.

BY A PRACTICAL FORESTER.

gmmeeariey Ti EF} elm, one of the most noble of our park and forest
KA trees, is subject to the attacks of several insect enemies,
eq = which, whether they are the cause or the result of a bad
state of health, are capable of doing a considerable
Ne FET amount of mischief, and also of hastening the death of
the trees that they attack. The enemies with which the elm has to
contend in the battle of life, are the larva of Bostrichus chalco-
graphus, B. topograpius, Cossus ligniperda, better known as the goat
moth, Hylisimus fravini, Scolytus destructor, and Cossonus linearis.
The Scolytus and the Cossonus are the two foes most to be feared, for
they are multiplied at a very rapid rate when they once attack a tree,
and the larve of the first-mentioned of the two have the power of
penetrating the sound hard wood, as well as of feeding on the liber
or inner bark, and on the alburoum. The larve of the Scolytus
feed entirely upon the alburnum, and they are perhaps more fatal in
their effects, for by eating this away the flow of sap is more or less
checked, and in the end the tree, if badly infested, perishes. The
Cossonus is very small, and as Mr. Humphreys, in an interesting
article on the “ Insect Enemies of the Elm,” in vol. ii. of the Jntel-
leetual Observer, remarks, ‘“‘ The larva is, as may be conceived from the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 229

size of the perfect indeet, very minute, and is a soft smooth grub totally
devoid of legs, but it is ‘furnished with considerable muscular power,
and with powerful mandibles, with which it at the same time takes
its food and perforates its minute tunnel.” The trees that are badly
attacked with this insect, soon show unmistakable signs of a rapid
decay, they lose the power to produce new leaves, and their existence
when in this weakly state is brief indeed. For this pest there is no

Fie. 1.—a, The tunnel of the Cossonus linearis. B, C. linearis. 1, Larva of Scoly-
tus destructor (magnified), 2, Larva of Scolytus destructor. 8, Head of S.
destructor (magnified). 4, S. destructor (magnified), 5, Size of S. destructor.

known remedy, and none of the authorities have suggested any means
by which the devastations of the larvee may be checked,

The Scolytus is a small beetle, somewhat similar in character to
the Cossonus, as will be seen on reference to the representations of

PAA
t Y jpn ie =i

aD Mh

a \

Nos ‘pi a on = :
| i CT i pry i)
il a ton ce

My inl

SS

ANS fe
SR

Fia@. 2.—Tracks of Scolytus on the wood of the elm.

Gt,
<7

the two insects in Fig.1. It has the power of penetrating the hard
outer bark of the trees, and depositing its eggs underneath; Fig. 2
represents a piece of wood which has been infested with a colony of
the Scolytus. The female insect has perforated the bark at a, and
it has then proceeded to form a tunnel underneath the bark. At 8,
and ¢, are rather deep cavities, and these are supposed by some en-

August,

‘230 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

‘tomologists to be formed for the purpose of affording the female an
‘opportunity to turn round in the tunnel, and beat a retreat should
she survive the work in which she is engaged. But they can hardly
be for that purpose, and after a close examination of various pieces
of wood tunnelled in the manner here shown, it is difficult to sup-
pose that they are provided for any other purpose than as recepta-
cles for the eggs. When the eggs are hatched, the larvee proceed to
the right and left of the tunnel, eating their way as they go, and these
lateral channels widen as the larve increase in size, and finally ter-
minate in a rather wide and blunt cavity.

In this cavity the larva sinks into a dormant state, and under-
goes its change to the winged state. The beetle when fully developed
bores its way through the bark and emerges into the open. Its open air
existence is exceedingly brief, for the female soon begins to bore her
way into the bark to deposit her eggs as in the previous generation.
The main tunnel formed by the female is always in an upward
direction, and it is usually from two to three and a half inches in

tem hy,
HON

NTN
4’

AN, Rae
‘ypu LN Hy) i » fl
| Wy

{I (
il h y a
: eae:

Fig. 3.—Elm-wood, showing tracks of B. chalcographus and B. typographus.

length. The larve feed upon the tree throughout the summer,
autumn, and winter, and as they may in the case of large trees amount
to many thousands, it is not difficult to conceive the immense
amount of injury an army of this beetle is capable of effecting.
The larvee of various species of Bostrichus make branching chan-
nels very similar to those formed by Scolytus destructor, as a reference
to Fig.3 willshow; the lines or channels at A, in this figure, are those
of B. chalcographus, and those marked B, are formed by JB. topo-
graphus. The last-mentioned species is rather the largest insect of
the two ; but both are about equal in the injury they do to the trees.
The larve of the Stag Beetle and of the Goat Moth also bore
their way into the elm as well as into other trees ; but, fortunately,
neither are sufficiently plentiful to do very much mischief. Were
they plentiful they would be more direful in their effects upon the
trees than either of the other enemies, for they make holes of large
size, and bore their way to quite the heart of the tree; so that if a

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, 231

tree were to be attacked by a considerable number, it would be very
soon killed.

For many years it has been a debatable point whether the attacks
of the pests, to which allusion has been made, are the cause or the
result of the bad state of health in which elm trees are frequently
found ; but if the evidence which has from time to time been brought
forward is carefully considered, it will be found that it is strongly in

“favour of the attacks being the result rather than the cause of the
disease.

If the trees become unhealthy from any cause, such, for example,
as the roots being covered over by hard pavement, or the moisture
drained out of the soil by a sewer, or large drain being laid down close
to the roots, as is frequently the case in towns and suburban districts,
the trees are quickly attacked by their enemies. It is questionable

- whether they attack trees that are perfectly healthy ; and if they do, as
Mr. Hibberd clearly proves in the volume of the Intellectual Observer

: ae referred to, “the sap would deposit new material, sufficient to
‘hermetically seal up the perforations of the female insect, and that,
should the eggs be deposited in a healthy tree, the power of vege-
tation would annihilate the brood by investing every cluster with
vegetable tissue so dense as to cause their suffecation, even if their
eggs were hatched; and that event would probably be as impossible as
for the larvz to eat their way either in or out.”

In 1862 much was made by those who believed these insects to be
the cause of disease in the elm, of the report that a French botanist,
M. Robert, had saved a large number of trees by stripping them of
their bark: but like many other wonderful reports received from the
Continent, there was very little in it, and on proper inquiries being
instituted it was found that all M. Robert had done, was to remove a
portion of the hard outer bark, and to renew the roots of the
‘affected trees in order to promote a free flow of sap, and a more
active vegetation. By the removal of the corky bark, colonies of
insects were destroyed, and the flow of sap quickened.

The elm produces its roots near the surface, and requires plenty
of moisture, consequently if the roots are covered up in the manner
already suggested, or the greater portion of the moisture drained out
of the soil, it is impossible for the trees to remain long in good health.
Therefore should any of the trees ina line or group become un-
healthy, and on examination be found to be infested with the Scoly-
tus or the Cossonus, they should be cut down, and if practicable,
the other trees should be assisted by the application of fresh soil,
or by preventing the moisture soaking away too rapidly. There is
no dressing that can be applied to the trees for the destruction of
‘their enemies, and to strip them of their bark would simply be to
assist in the work of destruction.

Fics.—At Calamata, in the Morea, large quantities of Figs are grown, about
8000 tons being the produce of last year. They realize about £15 per ton. The
demand in England for these figs is very smail, owing to their very tough skin. The
‘bulk finds its way to Russia by the Black Sea, or to Trieste for consumption in
‘Germany.

August,

232 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

RAISING SEEDLING FUCHSIAS.

BY HENRY CANNELL,
The Nursery, Woolwich, S.E.

mame HERE are not many amateurs who have turned their at-
f tention to the raising of seedling fuchsias, notwith-
standing the fact that few other florists’ flowers will
afford such a good return for the labour, skill, and
———— attention necessary in bringing this work toa successful
issue. The only amateur raisers of note at the present time are Mr.
Banks and Mr. Bland, and I should therefore very much like to see
others take up this very pleasing task, with a determination to
Taise something really good. We cannot well have too many raisers,
provided they do not tread too closely in each other’s footsteps, and,
in consequence, give us varieties bearing too great a resemblance to
each other. By having a large number of raisers there is a much
better chance of obtaining varieties that are both good and distinct
than when the number is few, because as a rule, each raiser devotes
special attention to one or two classes of flowers, and, of necessity,
the seedlings bear a very great similarity to each other. Therefore
the improvement of the fuchsia is likely to be carried on more
rapidly, and floriculture to be more largely benefited by amateurs
turning their attention to this work in larger numbers, than is at
present the case.

Many of those who have not made fuchsias a special study think
that the improvement of these flowers has been pushed to its utmost
limits, and that nothing further remains to be done; but I need
hardly say that thisisa mistake. Years ago—I am unable to say how
many—we were told precisely the same thing, and yet immense
strides have been made during the last few years. Depend upon it,
there is plenty to be done in this direction, especially with the
varieties bearing flowers with a white tube and sepals. Surely we
must not be satisfied with these, although some of them are very
fine. We want varieties of a more free and graceful habit, and
bearing flowers of larger size and better shape. I see no reason
why we should not have these with flowers quite equal in every way
to those of the dark sorts. There is also a possibility of obtaining
a quite new type of flower. If we inquire into the history of the
fuchsia, we shall find that some remarkably distinct forms have made
their appearance in the seed-beds of the raisers, and, in my opinion,
at a time when they were least expected. There is, for example,
Venus Victrix, which Mr. Cripps gave us thirty-three years ago.
This is the first variety with a white tube and sepals raised and
introduced into cultivation, and for some time it was thought to have
quite disappeared, but after great difficulty I succeeded in procuring
a plant. This being the first break from the dark varieties, there is
more purple in the corolla than in the corollas of the other varieties,
and by crossing it with the newest sorts some really fine things may

|

:

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 233

be reasonably expected. About twenty-two years ago Mr. Storey
gave us the first of those with white corollas, which included Queen
Victoria, Mrs. Storey, and Lady of the Lake, all of which have
now been surpassed; and about sixteen years ago Mr. Banks gave
us a decided new colour in Venus de Medici. I should like to see
something more done with the hardy sorts, such as Riccartoni, coc-
cinea, and gracilis. Mr. Bland has been successful in raising several
really good hardy hybrids, and, for the sake of those who admire
fuchsias and have no place in which to grow the tender sorts, I would
like to hear of more making their appearance. There are also
the winter-flowering species, which of themselves are capable of
affording plenty of work during the next ten or fifteen years, for
those who are prepared to take them in hand with a determination
to do them justice. There is, for example, serratifolia, and the well-
known hybrid Dominiana, both of which are capable of immense
improvement; and, in addition, there is a robust-growing fulgens,
which has flowers of immense size and of a very bright colour, and
when it has plenty of space for its development it has a very effective
appearance.

__ [have pointed out what is still to be done in the improvement
of the fuchsia to show the amateur that it is no exhausted mine he
is asked to work; and I will now give a few directions that will
possibly be found useful. Fucbsias are as readily raised by means
of seed as an ordinary annual, provided the seed is of good quality.
Fuchsia seed is, like that of the Centaurea, very peculiar. You
imagine you have a fine lot of seed, and although it has a clean and
nice appearance, and is tolerably plump, it has no vitality in it, and
of course is quite worthless. To make sure of seed that will grow,
and also produce good varieties, the amateur must save it himself.
No one can save fuchsia seed with a fair prospect of obtaining a price
that will compensate him for the labour he will have to bestow in
bringing it to perfection. Fuchsias produce very little seed indeed,
and when cleaned and dried it is remarkably light in weight. In-
deed, the quantity obtainable from a large house filled with plants is
so ridicuiously small that no one, excepting it be an amateur with
plenty of time on his hands, can engage in saving it for commercial
purposes. Some people are astounded when told that the seed of
some florists’ flower has been sold at four or five guineas per ounce;
but either of these sums is nothing as compared with the value of
fuchsia seed ; for the latter, provided it has been saved from {first-
class varieties and will germinate, is worth at least fifty guineas per
ounce.

Apart from the difficulty in obtaining first-class seed, the
amateur who is desirous of raising improved varieties must save it
from flowers that have been carefully fertilized with pollen obtained
from other flowers of good quality, or possessing some distinctive
characteristic. When the ordinary varieties ars employed, both as
pollen and seed-bearing parents, those with the finest shaped and
the most highly-coloured flowers oxly should be selected ; but when it
is desired to effect any particular cross, or to raise a distinct type, the
selection of varieties must be left entirely to the judgment of the

August,

254 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

raiser. J would strongly advise amateurs to do their best to raise
varieties distinct in character from those we already have in large
numbers, because of the greater interest they will feel in the work,
and the greater likelihood of their raising something really worth
having. The high-bred varieties, as in the case of other florists’
flowers, are very shy in producing seed, and very little, even with
the greatest care in fertilizing the flowers, will be obtained from
them. Up to the present time, the best results have been obtained
by crossing the various dark varieties together, and the light varieties
together, Dark varieties have been crossed by the best raisers with
light ones, and vice versé; but in no case that has come under my
motice have the results been satisfactory. The fertilization of the
flowers should be commenced early in the summer, to give the seed
plenty of time to be weli ripened by the autumn.

When the seed is thoroughly ripe, gather the pods and lay them
in a sunny position for a few days. ‘To separate the seed from the
pulp, crush the pods between the finger and thumb, and well wash
in clean water. Some care will be necessary in doing this, or a pro-
portion of the seed will be lost in removing the pulp. After the
seed is thoroughly clean, lay it in a shallow saucer to dry, and then
wrap in paper and put it by in a drawer until the time comes for
sowing it the following spring.

I shall not say much about raising the seedlings, for this is the
most easy part of the work. Prepare a sufficient number of five-
ineh pots, by filling them about half full of crocks, and then filling
the remaining space with fine sandy soil. Make the surface level,
sprinkle with tepid water and sow evenly over the surface. Cover
lightly with fine sandy soil, and place on a brisk hotbed, or in a pit
or house in which the temperature is suflicient to cause the seed to
germinate quickly. A temperature of 70 deg. or 75 deg. is perhaps
the most suitable.

Immediately the young plants are large enough to handle, prick
them. off into shallow pans or into pots prepared in the same manner
as the seed pots. They will require rather careful attention at this
stage because of their tenderness; but if they are kept rather close
and in a shady position, they will soon become established and com-
mence to grow freely. When the plantsare about three inches in
height, and before they have become drawn from overcrowding, pot
them off singly, and use three-inch pots and a light rich compost,
the latter to consist of turfy loam, leaf-mould and silver-sand. They
will not require any manure in the compost at this stage, as it is not
desirable to encourage a luxuriant growth. After they are -potted
off singly, they should be managed in precisely the same manner as
plants raised from cuttings. Those which make a strong growth
must be shifted into six-inch pots as soon as more root-space is
required, and the smaller plants should be put into pots one size less,
and pots of the sizes mentioned will be sufficient to carry them
through the season.

A portion of the stock will bloom in the course of the season,
and all that are of a promising character should be retained for the
purpose of submitting them to further trial the following season.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 235

Those also which do not bloom must be put by, but all that are
utterly worthless should, of course, be destroyed. Such as are to be’
preserved over the winter should be placed in a light position and
kept rather dry at the roots towards the autumn. In the spring
prane them moderately, reduce the ball of soil, and repot. The
second season there will be no difficulty in determining which are
worth keeping. To avoid unnecessary labour and to make way for
other seedlings, I would strongly advise the amateur to destroy all
that are not equal to those already in cultivation at the earliest
moment possible.

NEW STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
BY GEORGE GORDON.

==8 HE liberal prizes offered at the great exhibitions held at
a4] the Crystal Palace, Manchester, and South Kensington
this season, served a very useful purpose in bringing
prominently before the public the most promising novel-
~ ties introduced by the principal nurserymen, who devote
special attention to this branch of their business. The prizes offered
were liberally responded to, and a considerable number of new
plants were staged, and an excellent opportunity afforded for pur-
poses of criticism and comparison. There is this season no lack of
novelties, and the majority appear to be of exceptional merit in their
several classes. But unfortunately the plants now in course of
distribution for the first time consist almost exclusively of those
requiring the temperature of a stove for their successful cultivation.
‘This is to be regretted, as it limits the area of their cultivation,
and places them quite beyond the reach of the majority of amateur
cultivators.

Oxcatrps are but sparingly offered, and these few are exceptionally
good. One of the best of these is Odontoglossum Roezli, a lovely
species, introduced from New Granada. ‘he flowers are large, per-
fectly fiat, the sepals and petals white, with purple blotch at tue
base, and the labellum white, with yellow blotch at the base. There
is a pure white variety, known as O. Roezli album, and it is really
exceedingly beautiful. This is not yet ‘in commerce,” that is
to say, it has not yet been offered in the trade catalogues. Most of
the nurserymen have it, and there are several fine examples of it in
Mr. Day’s magnificent collection at Tottenham. O. vewillarium,
sent out last year, gains in popularity, and commands about double
the price at which it was first offered, the minimum price now being
five guineas. It is certainly one of the finest orchids we have; the
flowers are very large, the labellum being quite three inches across,
and are produced in spikes of five or six each, and sometimes as
many as three spikes are produced from one pseudo-bulb; the
flowers are of a pleasing shade of rose-lilac, and are wonderfully at-
tractive. O. Warscewiczi is similar to the latter in growth, but the
flowers, which are rather smaller, are of a creamy colour, with a

August,

236 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

dark blotch at the base of the sepals and petals. These all partake

of the general character of O. phalenopsis, and require a rather
higher temperature than the other Odontoglots. They succeed most
satisfactorily with the Cattleya and Lelias. Cattleya gigas is a spring
flowering species of great merit, the flowers very large, the sepals and
petals suft rose, and the labellum dark purplish red. Masdevallia
Davisi is the most recent introduction to this most interesting and
valuable genus, valuable because the plants can be grown in a cool
house, and by amateurs with but little expense in orchid culture,
and produce flowers of great beauty. This is in the way of M.
Harryana, and has flowers yellowish white outside, and brilliant
orange inside.

Ferns are not numerous, but several interesting kinds are
offered. Foremost amongst these must be placed Adiantum gra-
cillimum, unquestionably the most beautiful of all the Maidenhair
ferns. It is very similar in character to the well-known 4.
cuneatum, but the pinne are much smailer; they are, indeed, so
small, and the plant so light and elegant, that a specimen may be
likened toacloud of gauze. Its fronds will be found of special value
for bouquets and for dressing epergnes, because of their lightness and
airy appearance. In striking contrast to this is A. Seemannt, which
has pinne three inches long and two inches broad ; it is a very fine
fern, well adapted for specimen culture. A. specioswm is of semi-
scandent habit, has very large tripinnate fronds, and is worthy ofa
place in the most select collection, and well adapted for specimen
culture for exhibition purposes. Pleocnemia Leuzeana is a remark-
ably handsome arborescent species, introduced from the Philippine
Islands by Mr. W. Bull, of the King’s Road, Chelsea. It hasa short
thick trunk and large spreading fronds, which attain a very large
size on fully-developed specimens. It is very beautiful when stem-
less and in a small state, and as it is, comparatively speaking, very
cheap, it can be strongly recommended to the notice of amateurs.

Frowsrine Prants are very few in number. There are, in fact,
hard)y any flowering plants beyond the soft-wooded things and the
orchids. Dipladenia Brearleyana, which formed the subject of the
coloured plate in the Froran Wortp of last month, is undoubtedly the
most important, and can have the heartiest recommendation. Anthu-
rium candidum is an elegant plant, with ovate-lanceolate leaves, from
six to eight inches in length, and producing a profusion of white
spathes. It is hardly an amateur’s plant, and is not entitled toa
place elsewhere than in a stove of large size. Begonia Model and
B. Excelsior are two good additions to the list of tuberous-rooted
begonias, which is now very lengthy. Both have flowers of large
size, those of the first-mentioned being of a delicate rosy blush
shade, and of exceptionally fine form. The other has flowers of a
bright cinnabar-red, and with rather long petals. Amaryllis Leo-
poldi is a grand amaryllid, introduced from Peru. The flowers are
of immense size, measuring, when fully developed, quite seven
inches across; they are, in fact, larger than those of any other
amaryllis in cultivation. The flowers consist of six broad obovate
periauth segments, the lower half of which is a clouded crimson

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 237

colour, whilst the tips are creamy white. It is very bold and hand-
some, and whenever exhibited has attracted a large amount of
attention.

ORNAMENTAL-LEAVED PrAnts are, as usual, exceedingly plentiful,
and consist almost exclusively of those belonging to the stove.
One of the best of those hardy enough in constitution to admit of
their being grown in the greenhouse, is Anthericum variegatum,
introduced by Mr. B. S. Williams, of Upper Holloway, from the
Cape of Good Hope. The foliage is of a bright grassy green,
beautifully striped and margined with white. It is of medium
growth, very elegant in outline, and well adapted for the decoration
of the dinner table. Several new Dracenas are offered, and those
which are the most distinct and beautiful are D. hybrida, a medium
grower, with the leaves beautifully variegated with deep rose and
creamy white, the latter frequently suffused with rose ; D. Levangeri,
a strong-growing form, the leaves gracefully arching, and freely
variegated with rose; D. gemma, a very small grower, distinct and
elegant in character; D. rubella, a richly-coloured form, of robust
growth and upright habit. Crotons are not so plentiful as for some
years past, and neither of those now being offered for the first time
will be required, excepting it be for very large collections. C.
majesticum and C. spirale, sent out last autumn, are two magnificent
forms, that should find a place in the smallest stove. Some very
distinct Crotons have been exhibited this season, but as they will
not be distributed until next season, it is not worth while to say
anything further about them. A few fine Palms have been intro-
duced, and those most valuable are Astrocaryum filare, a fine species
of small slender growth; Demonorops ornatus, a beautiful species,
with finely-cut pinnate leaves; Desmoncus granatensis, a novel
form of considerable merit; and Martineza leucopheus, a handsome
dwarf species. These palms in no way supersede the best of those
now in general cultivation, and are now recommended simply to
those who have already a good representative collection.

STOCKS FOR CONSERVATORY DECORATION.

BY THOS. TRUSSLER,

Nurseryman, Edmonton, N.

ae OCKS, when well grown, whether in the open border or
| in pots, seldom fail in being heartily appreciated ; but
as a rule they are more highly esteemed when grown in
pots, for the embellishment of the conservatory during
the spring months. The flowers, through their being
protected from the weather, are remarkable for their freshness and
richness of colouring, and are so powerfully frayrant, that a dozen
plants or su are sufficient to filla medium-sized structure with their
grateful perfume. And as they are not difficult of cultivation,
amateurs may take them in hand with the full assurance of insuring
satisfactory results.
August.

238 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

The most suitable time for sowing is from the 1st to the 15th of
August, as there is then time for them to become strong, without
attaining a larger size before winter than is desirable. There are
four distinct colours, all of which should be grown. These are
the Intermediate Scarlet, Intermediate White, Intermediate Mauve
Beauty, and Intermediate Purple. The white and the scarlet, so-
called, are the two most useful colours, and if two are considered
sufficient, these should have the preference. Mauve Beauty repre-
sents a new strain of these fine stocks with large and exceedingly
double flowers, of a delicate mauve colour. Seed of the several
colours saved from good strains, should be procured, as common
seed, sold at a few pence per packet, produces a very large per-
centage of single flowers, and the cultivator’s labours are, to a
certain extent, wasted. Sow in pans or shallow boxes, each colour
separately, and place ina frame until the seedlings are nicely above
the surface, and then either draw the lights off altogether, or remove
the seed-pans out of doors, The soil used for filling the seed-pans
should be rather light and sandy, and the best compost for the pur-
pose is that prepared by incorporating together loam and leaf-mould,
in the proportion of one part of the manure to every three parts of
the loam. Sow thin, to avoid the necessity for potting the seedlings
off before they have become strong.

As overcrowding is injurious to stocks at this stage, pot them
off as soon as they begin to touch each other, or when they are
furnished with three or four leaves each. To avoid any unnecessary
labour, transfer them direct from the seed-pans to the pots in which
theyare to bloom. Five and six-inch pots are the most suitable, and
these should have alayer of crocks in the bottom about an inch in
depth. The drainage must be covered with a little of the roughest
portion of the compost, and when this has been done, fill the pots
firmly, and to nearly level with the rim with the prepared
compost. The latter should consist of one part well-rotted manure
or leaf-mould, and good turfy loam broken up somewhat roughly,
the proportions to be the same as advised for the seed-pans.
Lift the plants out of the pans with a thin piece of stick, and
dibble them in the pots, at the rate of two to the five-inch and
three to the six-inch pots. Press the soil firm, and if the pots
are not quite full enough when the plants have been dibbled in, add
a little more. Water moderately to settle the soil, and as it will
be some time before the pots will be well filled with roots, the
water must at first be applied sparingly or the soil will become
sour.

The Intermediate Stocks are rather hardy, but not hardy
enough to withstand the severity of an erdinary winter, and must
have protection. A frame from which the frost can be excluded,
either by means of fire-heat or a covering of some kind, is the most
suitable place for them during the winter, as in this they can be
placed near the glass, have protection from frost, and from an excess
of moisture, which is extremely hurtful to them. In February, they
should be removed to the greenhouse, and have a position allotted
them where they will be near the glass. From the greenhouse, they

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 239
can be draughted to the conservatory or the drawing-room window,
as they come into bloom. I would add, in conclusion, that the
plants bearing single flowers should be drawn out of the pots as
soon as the character of the bloom can be seen, as the decorative
yalue of the single flowers is very small indeed.

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WALL.

=’ willbe observed that fruit walls are usually furnished
tag: on one side only, and it will be agreed that they ought
4a; to be furnished on both sides. In a proper fruit
garden, as a matter of course, trees are planted on both
sides, and then such proposals as we intend to make are
simply not wanted. But we will suppose that the reader has a wall
on one side only of which fruit-trees are trained. If the other side
is not exposed to destroyers and marauders, as it must be if skirt-
ing a public road, it will pay to clothe both sides with fruit-trees,
and the question arises how to do it? Before we enter upon that
question, however, it is proper to remark that the aspect of the wall
is of some consequence, though of far less consequence than those
who have had but little experience would suppose. Of course a
wall facing south will on the other side face north, and the other
side is then of small value. But almost any aspect, except due
north, will serve for the trees that are usually planted on walls;
but on the cold side the fruit will not ripen so soon as on the warm
side.

To come to business, then, we shall state a ease. A wall
enclosing a square houseyard, has, of course, four aspects, and in

this case they are south-east, north-west, south-west, north-east.

; The south-east aspect is planted with peaches and nectarines,
which are trained in the usual way, and produce abundance of fruit.
At certain spots narrow slits have been cut quite through the wall,
by means of hammer and chisel, between the bricks, and through
these holes the points of young branches have been pushed. These
branches have lengthened, and in the course of years have quite
clothed the north-west side of the same wall. Such a proceeding
does not distress, it helps the tree, as we know by the philosophy of
extension, and it moreover enables a tree to do double work with
one set of roots, to the advantage of the tree, as well as its owner ;
for the more a tree is allowed to spread, the more healthy will it be.

The south-west wall is clothed on the south-west side with
peaches and plums. This wall is pierced in like manner; but as
the other side faces north-east, it would not be wise to bring the
peaches through, so the plums are alone carried to the other side.
Owing to the immense vigour of the plum-trees the other side is
quickly covered, and at the moment of writing this, the plums on
the north-east side are as plentiful as on the south-west side, and
will ripen perfectly, though a little late.

August,

240 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

The north-west aspect is planted with Morello cherries, which
are taken through in like manner, but for these the perforations
are mostly at the bottom of the wall, and each branch once through
and established, is trained out as a separate tree, fan fashion. This
plan is followed, because of the peculiar growth and pruning of the
Morello cherry.

The north-east wall is planted exclusively with that fine dessert
pear, Passe Colmar, which usually bears abundantly, and ripens its
fruit perfectly in this unfavourable aspect. This wall is not per-
forated, but the branches of the pear-trees are bent over the top and
trained down; and the south-west side thus clothed by reverse
training, is at the moment of writing this so densely clothed with
fruit, that we fear for the trees, unless the crop is quickly and
severely thinned, as, indeed, it ought to have been when the pears
were at first fairly visible.

Thus four walls serve the purpose of eight walls, as regards
productive surface. But it may be asked, why not plant on both
sides? To this proper question it may be answered, in the first
place, that if one set of trees planted outside all round will suffice,
it would be a folly to plant two. And again, it may be said that
the utmost possible extension of a tree should always be aimed at,
for nine-tenths of all the wall-trees are rendered unhealthy by
excessive pruning. But finally, in the case before us, the yard is
attached to the domestic offices, and in part is used for drying
clothes, and such like. It is nicely paved, aud it would be incon-
venient to have trees planted in it. Many readers of the Frorat
Wortp may be similarly cireumstanced, and may be glad of this
hint for making a fruit-wall do double duty. Sy it

SMALL BIRDS FOR THE HOUSEHOLD.

BY THE PRISONER'S FRIEND.

==—) PAPER of mine in the March number of the Frorat

#} Work bp, treated of the parrots that are best adapted for
domestication in dwelling-houses. In consequence of
its appearance I have received a number of letters, in
which I am asked to write more on the same subject,
and Lam in a difficulty how to harmonize politeness with my own
convenience, having but little time for writing, being utterly desti-
tute of experience in the use of the pen, and moreover having but a
poor opinion of my capacity for teaching. But I will do my best,
hoping to be useful, and to be forgiven for the shortcomings that are
certain to be only too visible.

Certain correspondents who take an interest in cage birds, sug-
gest that some general advice as to selecting them would be accept-
able. I shall begin by saying that the fewer cage birds in any house
the better, as a rule. To the amateur collector I have nothing to
say. He or she will take in hand all sorts of birds, and perhaps

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 241

never tire of the pastime, or, it may be, soon find that it is a plaguey
pastime, and quickly give it up. I can remember when my houze
was full of cage birds, and birds that lived out of cages, the trouble
entailed in feeding and cleaning was immense, but success attended
our labours, and the collection was the theme of universal praise.
But at a certain moment we had to leave home together for a con-
siderable length of time, and we made the best imaginable arrange-
ments for the care of our large feathered family, but the end of it was
a dreadful wreck, and we haye not had the courage to begin again.
Strange to say, when, on returning home, my husband looked at the
empty cages, and began with a half-broken heart to do something
to save the few birds that were left, he had the misfortune to cause
the death of a bird that he valued more than all the rest. This was
a skylark, whose song he had modified to his own liking by piping to
it, and great was his joy to find this bird amongst the few that had
survived the neglect which had ruined the collection. The bird
looked dejected, so he got ready another cage for it, with a nice fresh
turf and such trifles of comfort as loving hands alone can find,
and he tenderly took the bird from the dirty cage it was in, to
transfer it to a nicer home. Whether he was too gentle or somewhat
unnerved by the dreadful spectacle of dead birds and empty cages,
it is impossible to say, but the tragedy was the same: the bird sprang
from his hand and went up like a rocket, struck the ceiling, and fell
at his feet as dead as a stone. If the skilled and experienced in
bird-keeping have such accidents, the beginner in the perilous busi-
ness must not expect to escape. But there isa right as well as a
wrong way to begin, and I am satisfied that no one should enter into
bird-keeping in a large way until they have a year or two of ex-
perience in the management of a canary, for to manage one bird well
gives a key to the management of many.

Having made this beginning, it will be well to make further
acquaintance with birds of the same family; that is, the family of
the finches. It should be impressed on the mind of the beginner
that the finches are the easiest of all to keep, and the most lively
and sociable as cage birds. Asa rule, ail they want is dry food, and
vegetables that need no preparation ; but the soft-billed birds must
have pastes and compounds, and the result is a considerable amount
of mess and bother. And what finches would you recommend ? some
one willask. The Chaffinch, Goldfinch, Liunet, and Siskin constitute
an extremely interesting collection—all seed-eaters, all singers, all
pretty, lively, healthy, companionable, teachable, and long lived.
The siskin is a darling bird, although not very musical. Its comical
movements and ridiculous song would drive a frown from any brow,
and almost cause a marble bust to smile. But there ends the list of the
most desirable finches. They thrive on canary seed, millet, and rape ;
they want regular supplies of vegetable food, such as lettuce, ground-
sel, chickweed, shepherd’s purse, or wild turnip. I have lately seen
in a captain’s cabin, a sweet little canary that was purchased in
Japan, and has been in the ship four years without being once re-
moved. And how does.its loving owner find it in fresh vegetable
food P you will ask. Oh,in a simple pretty manner. ate sOWS a

August,

2A2 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

handful of wheat or any other dry corn, or a spoonful of mustard
seed, on a great sponge that is fitted in an ornamental jar, and pre-
sently the sponge becomes a green field, and the little dear has the
delightful change of diet, without which, in all probability, it would
cease to live.

When you have become thoroughly accustomed to the five finches
I have advised upon, there are others worth attention. The Bullfinch
is one of them. It is marvellously teachable, and when taught must
be very carefully kept up in its lessons, and prevented from spoiling
them by hearing other birds. A piping bullfinch for which I paid
a large sum of money, because of its superb rendering of the Scotch
air “Rest thee, babe,” which had been taught it by means of a
flageolet, actually incorporated with the tune the squeak of a wheel-
barrow, which it heard every morning early, and of which 1 was in
happy—nay unhappy—ignorance until the mischief was done. But
I got through the difficulty. I imposed on a very near and dear
friend of mine who used to whistle like a flute, to teach the bird
another tune, and he taught it “ Sweet Jenny Jones,” having a great
fancy for that tune, because he had so often enjoyed the performance
of it by the Lancashire beilringers, and the harpers of Wales. A
piping bullfinch is an elegant present for a friend, but before you
select such a present, be somewhat sure the friend will take proper
eare ofthe bird. Ifyou do not know how to secure a first-rate bird,
send to Mr. Hawkins, Bear Street, Leicester Square, for be imports
selected birds that are perfect in three tunes. I wish the Germans
would not teach them with the bird organ, for it does not impart a
sufficiently true tone to the voice; but there, if a bird sings passably
well it’s a wonder, and if we must pay thirty shillings for such a bird,
the money, I think, is well spent.

A piping bullfinch should be fed on poppy seed, a very little
hemp, and a scrap of dry thin biscuit twice a week, with a little
vegetable food every day. If you give your piping bullfinch much
hemp seed, you will soon have to pipe yourself—it may be because
the bird has ceased to sing, and it may be because it has ceased to
live.

Another interesting bird is the Hawfinch, an impudent, comical
fellow, with a sort of roguish look about him. Iwas rather startled
one day to hear that my tame hawfinch, a very curious but affec-
tionate bird, was known below stairs as ‘“‘the thief;” and I must
say the moment I heard the word I saw the thief in him; he bore
some resemblance to the “ Artful Dodger” in Mr. Cruikshank’s
wonderful illustrations to ‘‘ Oliver Twist.” Like the bullfinch, this is
a greedy bird, and will die of fatty heart if indulged with much
nourishing food. Rape and hemp are suitable food, but much of the
latter will soon make an end of it.

The Crossbill I consider an extremely interesting bird, and every
one will agree that it is beautiful. It keeps up a pretty piping all
day long, is always in action, a ludicrous fidget, and in all its ways
as well as its voice and appearance, resembles a parakeet. If you
can see your bird before you buy it, select one-with a fine red breaat.
for then you will havea young bird not reared by hand, and with

a

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 243

the natural colour. You will have also the natural ways, and alto-
gether a pretty feathered bit of the wild northern furests. It
requires hemp, rape, and pine or fir seeds, and, in the season, elder-
berries. A fresh ripe fir cone affords it a rare treat, and to see it
pick out the seeds is very amusing.

If you want another hard-billed bird, take the Redpole. But I
confess, it is not much of a bird. Probably I should never have kept
such a stupid little thing if a little nephew of mine had not shown
his first taste for sport by trapping them, and then horrifying me
by selling them. Having a young birdeatcher in the family, I
was compelled to buy, but I never could be enraptured with a
redpole.

When we enter upon the keeping of birds that require prepared
foods, we begin to experience the agonies of the aviary. It is easy
work, I know, to keep a thrush or a blackbird, or a skylark, but it
is not easy to all alike, and’no one should begin who is not pre-
pared to go on, for it is dreadful injustice to heaven to treat a bird
unkindly. The Thrush, Blackbird, and Skylark may, however, be
kept in the same house conveniently if they can be far separated,
for they are loud in their utterances. The paste which best suits
these birds is one compounded of stale bread soaked with boiled
milk, with twice as much of the finest barley-meal, well beaten
together. Many odd things answer for a change, as, for example, a
little grated cheese, a little soft fat froma boiled leg of mutton
pressed into a paste with meal, or grated carrot and bread soaked
in milk. For the lark, a little grated leather must be added to the
paste occasionally. As for myself, I will never again keep any of
these birds, for the trouble is more than the pleasure is worth, To
be sure, J am not shut up in a town, where the only bird music
must be derived from a wire cage. The thrushes so abound here,
that my husband says it is dangerous to walk about, because of the
risk of breaking one’s neck by tumbling over them, and we have all
the birds that belong to the country, the nightingale not excepted.
The mention of the Nightingale reminds me to say, that this won-
derful songster, and its near relative, the Blackcap, are both most
difficult to keep. We have had our experiences, and our pleasure
and pains with these as with others, and heartily advise that only
those who have a peculiar gift in bird management should have
anything to do with them.

You will think it strange, perhaps, that after setting aside so
many as undesirable, I should wind up by recommending as a house-
hold bird the Robin. Not one of the troublesome birds has amused
me so much, and we have had several robins. Be sure you begin
with a bird reared from the nest, or taken very young, and you must
pay a good price for it. Birds caught when mature never take to
imprisonment kindly, and are miserable as long as they live, which,
generally speaking, is not long. Happily, the familiar redbreast will
eat almost anything. or a general food, the paste just now recom-
mended for larks will answer, but he likes cheese, scraps of tender
meat, and very small crumbs of bread, elderberries, minced fat free
of fibre, and, above all, meal-worms. Water be must have to drink,

August.

24.4) THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of course, but a robin will not thrive long if it cannot bathe as it
pleases, and a rare splashing it will make if allowed.

The most enjoyable way to keep a robin is to allow it to leave
the cage and fly about the roomall day, and at night coax it into its
cage with a meal-worm or two. Bob will go in for his meal-worm
and keep an eye on the door. You must be gentle. When he has
picked up the worm put as a decoy, throw in another at the front
of the cage to take his attention from the door, and then softly shut
him in. Arobin in a room must reign alone. Any bird competitor
will ensure quarrelling, and it may be bloodshed. Bob is the
tenderest and most engaging bird in all the world until another bird
dares to share the apartment with him, when he is seized with a dread-
ful desire to taste the blood or even see the brain of his competitor,
and a fight is sure to follow.

When loose in the room is the best time for Bob to have his
bath, and he will rush into water, whatever sort of vessel it may be
in. Nay, he will cmagine water sooner than go without his bath. I
have seen a bird of mine perch on the slippery top of a large china
jar, and the coldness and glisten of which suggested to him that he
might now have his bath. Then he would stoop into the imagined
water, throw it cver his back, and then allow his wings and feathers
to drop as if really wet, and finally he would go on the edge of the
fender to dry himself at the fire, though a cold, dry, slippery surface
of shiny porcelain was the nearest imitation of water he had enjoyed.

The song of the robin suits aroom admirably; it is soft, rich, and
melodious. When a bird is used to a room, it usually passes much
of its time on the curtain-pole or some similarly high perch, whence
now and again it sends forth a delightful trill. But it will come
down to dinner, and must really be allowed to behave as it pleases
on the dinner table.

THE POTATO IN 1875.

Saseaeeey 11) phenomena of the potato field have proved interesting
164 BRA at least this season, and we very much fear the few
Wi examples of defective growth we have thus far observed,
will at last culminate in a general failure. We are
~ a= writing on the 15th of July; the rain is raining with a
vengeance; for more than fifteen hours it has rained heavily and
continuously in our green valley of the Lea, where, we are bound to
observe, the rainfall, taking the year through, is a trifle less than the
London average. A wet summer means devastation of the potato
crop, and we tully expect that the too well known disease will prevail
disastrously on all the heavy lands. But our readers, probably, care
little for our speculations, though, as a matter of course, they will
be interested in the facts that have come within our cognizance.
The month of May was characterized by unusually bright, dry,
hot weather. The potatoes made splendid progress. They were
in no serious degree injured by late frosts. ‘lhe prospect, as

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 245

regards the potato crop, was splendid; but a flash of lightning
struck the flag. In other words, a strange blight appeared. It was
not general, and it did not seriously injure the crop; but it was
carious. Here and there in the field a plant or a group of plants
appeared as if smitten with some killing malady. The whole of the
growth above ground was shrunk, and the usual symptoms of potato
disease were not apparent. The microscopists were very busy. They
found traces of peronospora, protomyces, ascomyces, sepedoniei, and
other fungi; but as they could not explain that the fungi caused
the shrinking, they got out of the difficulty by designating the
shrinking (with happy vagueness) a New Disease.

At this juncture, having examples of the shrinking in our plan-
tations at Stoke Newington, we began to look into the matter, and,
on lifting a few plants, the case was completely and lucidly ex-
plained. The roots were crowded with wireworms and other insect
plagues; the underground stems were pierced, channelled, and
barked by the same pests. -On making careful microscopic examina-
tion of the withered leaves, we found there were just such traces of
fungi as are common to withered leaves in a general way, for when
leaves die, fungi take possession of them, and make a banquet of
decay. We were confirmed in our opinion that wireworm was the
cause of the so-called “new disease”” when we made a careful
examination of the plantations of our friend Mr. Peter McKinlay of
Beckenham. It is true he bad but little of the plague to experiment
upon ; but that little was enough. On lifting the blighted plants,
we found wireworm boring the tubers, peeling the stems, and
piercing, as with gimlets, the most vulnerable part of the plant, that is
at the “collar,” or where the ground line crosses, a point which
gardeners describe, happily, perhaps, as “‘ between wind and water.”’
Ta a letter to the Times, published July 1, we stated the case as
clearly as was in our power, saying that, up to that date, there was
no new disease, and, in fact, no disease at all; but that wireworm,
co-operating with most unseasonable heat and drought, afforded all
the explanation needed as to the occasional collapse of the potato
plant in the sunny month of May.

The representatives of the Royal Horticultural Society ought,
we admit, to have made the discovery. They are commissioned, not
only by the Society’s supporters, but by the public generally, to take
the lead in such matters. As they did not, but, on the other hand,
went on pottering with microscopists, they allowed to drift into the
hands of a heterodox outsider a discovery that should have been their
own. Strange to say, wireworm does not exist in the Society’s
gardens at Chiswick. Not one of the official reports makes mention
of such athing. The great authority up there, Dr. Hogg, who is
now very deservedly exalted to the post of Honorary Secretary, has
never yet mentioned wireworm, and it may be that, in common with
Mr. Berkeley, who also has past the meridian of life, his sight is
less keen, and his capability of conviction not so delicate as in days
gone by. However, a few folks not blessed with official appoint-
ments under the egis of the Royal Horticultural Society, have
arrived at the couclusion that the shrivelling that followed the

August.

246 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

unusual heat of May was the result of the attacks of wireworm
and other insect plagues. We find Messrs, Carter and Co., the
eminent seed growers; Mr. McKinlay, the very first of amateur
potato growers in the country; Mr. Taylor of Fencote; Mr. Challis
of Witton House, Salisbury, Mr. Serjeant of Weybridge, Mr. Hen-
derson of Walthamstow, and many others, testifying that the shrivel~
ling was the result of the plant being eaten underground, and that
the wireworm was the principal offender. But why should so excep-
tional a case occur? It was not exceptionable. It has been
observed time out of mind, but acquired distinctive importance this
year owing to the exceptional heat and drought of the month of
May. The marauders kept below the ground for the sake of cool-
ness and moisture, and the plant suffered in a more than ordinary
degree, because the heat was such that evaporation from the leaves
made a greater demand upon the roots than the damaged stems
could endure. The fountain was nibbled in the centre, and it could
not play as required. When the June rains came, many of the
shrunken plants recovered, thus proving that they never were
diseased at all.

But those June rains have developed the old disease. This was
to be expected. The murrain is sure to appear if the ground is cold
and wet when the potato is in process of forming or ripening its
tubers. The big wigs of the Royal Horticultural Society discovered
a New Disease. They next discovered that the new disease was
the old disease known as Curl. The next step was to discover that
the Curl was only the Murrain in a new form. Let us wait; they
are bound to discover that potato disease is not the fault of the sun,
but of the moon and stars and planets, and at that point a black
cloud will obscure the heaven at Chiswick, and we shall all be left
in the dark if we trust such pretentious guidance. The old disease
is raging beyond all doubt, but it is not the consequence of the
growth of a fungus on the plant, but of cold and wet. His Majesty
King Sol has hid his face behind the heavy cloud of vapours, and
o potatoes are dropsical through too much wet and too little sun~
shine.

It remains to be said that Mr. Worthington Smith, a painstaking
microscopist and mycologist, believes he has discovered the resting
spores of Peronospora infestans, the fungus which is invariably asso-
ciated with potato disease. This discovery requires confirmation,
and it is fraught with important results. For the present, it
appears to us to be a matter of immense interest to microscopists,
but of the smallest consequence to the cultivator of potatoes.

8.

Grartine Pears on Coronraster Stocxs.—The I/lustration Horticole records
some experiments of Dr. Bretonneau, the celebrated physician of Tours, and an
enthusiastic amateur gardener, on the grafting of distinct genera, He has success
fally tried grafting Pears on Cotoneaster affinis and on Amelanchier, The results
were very curious and interesting, and were crowned with success; but similar
experiments on the evergreen species, C. buxifolia and C. microphylla failed.

De = fn al

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 247

THE GLORY PEA.

resey()U say, in your “ Amateur’s Greenhouse,” the “ Clianthus

’4| Dampieri” is from New Zealand. This is an error.
The New Zealand Clianthus is a shrub. I have grown
it in my garden for several years, and prune it every
winter. Neither foliage, flowers, nor brightness of
colour approach near to our Clianthus. You call it the Glory pea;
it well deserves the name; we call it the Sturt Pea, after Capt.
Sturt, the explorer, who first brought the seeds to Adelaide thirty
years ago, in many places from two hundred and fifty to eight hun-
dred miles from Adelaide. It grows wild, like your English vetches,
covering hundreds and thousands of acres, cattle and sheep feeding
and fattening on it. We find the seeds germinate in sandy soil
very readily ; but on many of our native seeds we have to pour
boiling hot water at night and soak them till morning, ‘The
country around Adelaide brings the most lovely flowers and shrubs
to perfection. You should see our Botanic Gardens, under the care
of Dr. Schomburgk, brother of Sir R. Schomburgk, the discoverer of
the Victoria Regia Lily, you would pronounce them worthy to be
numbered amongst the most lovely public gardens in the whole
world. We have about three thousand acres of public park-lands
surrounding our beautiful city, and to the east a noble amphitheatre
of lovely bills embraces us, the gulleys supplying us with the finest
vegetables all the year round.

We produce the most glorious fruits, rich, ripe grapes, worth
£3 10s. to £4 10s. perton. Apricots, figs, peaches, loquats in the
greatest abundance from October to April. The oranges are now
ripening ; all the good kinds are grown—Mandarines, Navel, Maltese
blood, Paramatta, ete. Our pears melt in your mouth. We havea
glorious land. Strangers say our summer is hot ; if so, it is healthy.
The fact is, we have not twenty-one days of really unpleasantly hot
weather all the year. Iam only a plain man of business, so I can’t
talk dog Latin and give you the names of our native planis, or I
would do so. If you will accept the few enclosed seeds of the
white Sturt Pea, you are heartily welcome to them. The sort,
originally, I believe, came from the neighbourhood of Nicholl Bay,
on the north-west coast. Some of them come nearly white with us,
others white-striped or variegated. Don’t give them too much
water. With us they flower through August, September, October,
and November. :

I wonder well-to-do Englishmen don’t make up their minds to
spend a few hundred pounds in a year’s holiday in visiting the
Australian colonies oftener than they do. Weare really the wonder
of the century. |

4, Hindley Street, Adelaide. E. Epwarps.

‘An Internationan Horticunruran Exurerrion ror 1877 is now under con-
sideration. .A meeting of the leading horticulturists was held at St. James’ Hall
on July 21. ;

August.

248 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN QUIDE.

FLOWERS FOR CHURCH DECORATION.

BY CAMILLE RONDEAU.

ZARAY do not allow any of the vexed questions of the day
i to interfere with your perusal of my humble paper. I
will not tell you whether I belong to High Church,
Low Church, Broad Church, or no church, for it cannot
matter. It is, however, a fact that I supply, according
to my means, a few flowers occasionally for the decoration of our
parish church. It happens that al/ the festivals for which flowers
are required occur at times when they are scarce: hence the interest
that attaches to providing them.

For Christmas there are, of course, evergreens, and such like.
I have for many years grown a large patch of Helleborus niger,
which I have covered with common frames in November, and by this
means I am enabled to supply our church with an abundance of
Christmas roses. In the greenhouse I grow a lot of Chinese
primulas, which are generally in flower at Christmas; but I find I
cannot thoroughly depend on cutting freely from them. A few
camellias and azaleas I can always secure, but never so many as I
would wish ; for I cannot afford to force, in the proper sense of the
word.

For the Easter dressings I have a plant that is equal in value to
the Christmas rose. It is the old trumpet-lily, or Calla Zthiopica.
Of this I have about thirty pots, and I have cut as many as sixty
flowers at one time for Easter dressings. A few of the large, hand-
some leaves must be cut with the flowers, to back them up. Another
method of providing cheap flowers for this season is to plant out in
a sheltered spot all the tulips and hyacinths that have done duty as
pot-plants ; but it is well also to buy a few cheap bulbs, and plant
them close in boxes, so as to ensure some flowers of fine quahty to
spice up the smaller spikes that come from the old bulbs. Easter,
being a moveable feast, must be thought of in good time in respect
of flowers grown expressly for it.

For the harvest festival I have also a leading, cheap, and useful
plant. It is the old ribbon-grass, Phalaris arundinacea, the leaves
of which are elegantly striped with creamy white. i have been
asked by many how I managed to supply such lovely bunches, which
have proved so eminently effective in our church decorations.
Generally speaking, the plant is quite worn-out and shabby at the
time of harvest. Well, to reply. I have a long line of this grass
in the kitchen garden, and it has a splendid appearance in the early
summer, but becomes coarse when it runs up to flower. I allow it
to flower, but do not allow the seed to swell; for as soon as the
bloom is nearly perfect, I have it all cut over close to the ground.
Very soon a new and delicate growth appears, and I have a grand
supply by the time it is wanted for the harvest dressings. I also
find Sedum fabariwm (or spectabilis), Asters, Dahlias, and Gladioli,
extremely useful, unless the season is unkind; and as to that in
the shortening days, we must take our chance.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 249

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR AUGUST.

Far from mankind, my weary soul, retire,

Still follow truth, contentment still desire.

Who climbs on high, at best his weakness shows,
Who rolls in riches, all to fortune owes,

Resd well thyself, and mark thy early ways,

Vain is the muse, and envy waits on praise.

Way’ring as winds the breath of fortune blows,

No pow’r can turn it and no pray’rs compose.

Deep in some hermit’s solitary cell,

Repose, and ease, and contemplation dwell.

Let conscience guide thee in the days of need ;
Judge well thy own, and then thy neighbour's deed.

What heav’n bestows, with thankful eyes receive;

First ask thy heart, and then through faith believe.

Slowly we wander o’er a toilsome way,

Shadows of life, and pilgrims of a day.

“© Who restless in this world, receives a fall;

*€ Look up on high, and thank thy God for all!”
CHAUCER.

= NNUALS to stand the winter to be sown now on poor hard ground, or in
pans filled with poor soil. The sorts to sow now are Cardytutts, Nemo-
philas, Collinsias, Escholtzias, Erysimum, Clarkias, Convolvulus minor,
Godetia, Larkspur, Lupinus, Poppy, and Schizanthus.

Beppine Puants should during the month be propagated for next
year’s supply, and the cultivator should determine from present effects and the
aspects of new plants not yet used in quantities, what will be required next year,
so as to avoid crowding frames and pits with useless subjects, and to secure
sufficient of those that will be required. As almost everything will strike now from
young shoots, a good stock may be got up in time to harden off for the winter.

CAaMELEIAS mrst have constant attention. Many old plants will be found
wanting water, and the best way to deal with them will be to plunge the pots to
their rims in a tub of water for half an hour, to thoroughly soak the ball through.
If allowed to continue very dry vow that their buds are set, the buds will fall off.
Young plants that have not quite filled their pots with roots must be only moderately
watered.

Czxery to be earthed up with care after a heavy rain or good watering ; take
care the mould does not find its way into the hearts.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS require special attention now; pompones to be topped for
the last time ; large flowering kinds not to be stopped any more ; all to have sticks
and ties if needful ; and plants intended for exhibition to have the surface mould
removed from the pots, and a mulch of sheep or deer’s dung, or fat half-rotten dung
from a cucumber bed.

Cucumprrs that have been in bearing throughout the summer will shortly
begin to fail, so those who want a succession of fruit must be on the alert. Sow or
strike cuttings, the latter to be preferred, and get ready to make up new beds. Old
plants still in vigour must have the help of linings, and be covered with mats at
night. Beware of mildew ; if it once appears, remove the affected leaves, and give
the plants a sprinkling of sulphur.

EVERGREEN Survubs may towards the end of the month be moved with the
best chance of success, whether they be large or small, As to evergreens, such as
hollies, aucubas, laurels, Portugal laurels, lauristinus, arbor vittes, etc., they have
all done growing, their wood is hard, and if lifted about the end of the month will
make fresh root while the surface soil is in the best condition of warmth and
moisture of any period of the year. Where new gardens are being laid out, the
gain of three months upon the ordinary planting season is no small matter, as it
enables the planter to have the chief operations finished at a time when the men
enjoy the work, and the proprietor is enabled also to enjoy the result, and all to the
advantage of the plants.

Greenuousss to be cleared out and cleansed, and if needful repaired and
painted, and made ready for re-stocking. All woodwork and brickwork should be
scrubbed, and the latter lime-whited, and all holes stopped with cement.

: Houtynocks, where they are unirjured by the disease, are now coming into full
beauty, and must have every attention necessary to keep them so. See that they

August,

250 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

are loosely but safely tied to’ their stakes, as a smart gale will sometimes snap off
the best spikes,

Hyacintus AnD orHer Sprive Burss for an early bloom will have to be potted
shortly, and preparations must at ence be made to secure plenty of good turfy
compost in a sweet and friable condition,

Lizivms in the borders, that have done blooming, should be taken up, the
offsets removed, and the large roots for flowering next year be planted again
directly where they are to bloom, and with a shoveltul of rotten maaure and grit or
some sound fresh compost added for every clump. Plant the offsets also at once in
the reserve ground. Choice Liliums in pots to have abundance of water until done
blooming; after that the supply of water to be diminished, but not hastily; and as
soon 2s the foliage shows signs of decay lay the pots on their sides on a sunny shelf
in a greenhouse, to make sure of ripening the bulbs ; let them remain in the pots a
month, and then shake them out and repot them,

MusHRooms may be raised in plenty in old frames or at the back ofa shed.
Get together a good heap of short manure that has not been fermented; spread it
out, aud turn twice at intervals of aweek ; then add turfy loam in the proportion of
one-sixth, and make up the bed eighteen inches deep, beating it down well as the
work proceeds. Let it remain there till there is a brisk heat, then insert the spawn
in pieces of the size of an ege about four inches apart, and cover the bed with two
inches of fine loam or rotted turf.

Orcuip Hovse requires now some revision, so as to separate plants that are
going to rest from thuse that are still actively growing. Encourage growth in
young Specimens recently potted, but as the growth of any orchil appears to be
completed, gradually withhold water, and remove them to a cooler part of the
house.

Pansies to be propagated now in quantity for planting out in October, and to
pot for early blooming in pits in spring. Those lately struck to be planted out in
beds of turfy loam, with a liberal admixture of sand and charred rubbish, but very
little animal manure,

PEDARGONIUMS of all kinds that have been cut down and have made new shoots
an inch long must be repotted. Remove the outside of the ball and trim in the
roots slightly, so as to get them into small pots. Those potted a month ago now
want a sbift. Take care to have a sound compost ; the use of light sandy composts
has much to do with the long joints and weak flower-stems we notice at the shows.

Pines swelling their fruit to have frequent supplies of liquid manure, and abun-

dance of atmospheric moisture, Young plants to stand the winter, for fruiting ”

early next year, had best be removed from those swelling fruits so as to keep them
drier and more freely ventilated.

Roszs lately budded to have the ties loosened. Where buds have failed, others
may be inserted either on the stems of young stocks or on suitable shoots lower
down than those previously worked. Prune pillar Roses, so as to remove a moderate
amount of both old and young wood; that left to be its full length, and at such
regular distances that there will be good symmetrical heads next season. Short
cuttings of Chinas and Perpetuals will root now in the open ground under glasses.

Sprnacu.—Round-seeded sown at once will yield a nice supply to vary the
produce of the season. Sow also Flanders, to stand the winter.

Stove Puants must be prepared betimes for the winter by gradually withholding
water from such as haye completed their growth, and exposing as much as possible
to air and sunshine all hard-wooded plants, that the growth of the season may be
completely ripened.

SrRAWBERRIES.—Now is the best time in the whole year to make new beds, to
ensure good bearing next year. If rooted runners are plentiful, take the best only,
and destroy all the weak ones; but any varieties it is thought desirable to propa-
gate to the utmost, sort the runners as to sizes, planting the forwardest and strongest
in beds to bear, and the late weaker ones in separate beds for stock ; these latter
will probably not bear till the year after next, and then will be strong plants.
Strawberries to fruit in pots next year ought by this time to be strong, and in need
of a shift. The soil should be strong loam, well chopped over, with rotten manure,
and the plants to be potted very firm.

Sow collards, prickly spinach, turnips, and radishes.

Winrer Greens to be planted out as fast as ground becomes vacant.

a ee

me

ee ee ee ee ee ae

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 251

NEW BOOKS.

Hicu-Criass Kircnnrn Garveninc. By Witiiam Harter (Bradbury),—An
extremely neat, compact, and distinctive treatise on the higher departments of
vegetable culture. It is not only a practical, but a readable book, although the
object of the author everywhere is to convey the utmost possible amount of useful
information in the fewest possible words. It would be scarcely fair to quote from a
work which any one can obtain for a few shillings, and we are content, therefore, to
advise all of our readers who need such a book to order it at once.

A Histoxy or Brittsa Frrvs. By Epwarp Newman (Van Voorst).—A
‘ people’s edition” of this well-known book is certain to meet with a proper reception.
The beauty of the octavo edition is not altogether lost in this cheap reprint, for there
are many excellent figures that indeed are not pictures, but will serve as well for
such as require the book for genuine work and not simply as an adornment of the
table.

CxaPTers on SounpD For Becinners. By C. A. Martineau (Groombridge).—
It is quite a rare occurrence to meet with a book on a profoundly interesting
scientific subject labelled, “ for beginners,” and find it the equal of the book before
us. It is a strange article of popular faith that a small amount of knowledge
suffices for one who proposes to teach, and hence very much of the world’s teaching
has to be untaught in the case of those who resolve to be possessed of real know-
ledge. These Chapters on Sound are evidently the work of a man thoroughly versed
in the subject, and who, moreover, has the rare gift of conveying his knowledge
in a most simple and agreeable manner, without any admixture of namby-pamby-
ism, It will be found a capital book for the boys as the long nights return, and
especially for young people of both sexes when home for the holidays, for it is full
of philosophical experiments that may be performed without danger and with pretty
and inexpensive instruments.

Tue Poraro DisEssze, AND THE CurL Disease 1n Porators. By Hccuzs
Haren (Philip).—A well-written and well-directed essay, which, by an accident of
the season, has acquired considerable importance. As bookson this subject abound,
we must say that this is better worth attention than nine-tenths of the whole
number.

A GewneraL CaTatocue or Stove, GreennousE, Harpy, anv Beppine
Pranzs. By W. Rottison anp Sons, Tooting.—We are content, as a rule, to
announce the catalogues sent us, and say nothing of their respective merits. But
an exception to the rule we must make in the present instance. This catalogue of
the celebrated Tooting nurseries forms a handsome octavo volume, being well bound
and interleaved, and every way fit for a permanent place in the library, The printed
matter extends to 176 pages, of which the index fills no less than nine pages, That
such a catalogue should be given away freely is not to be supposed, but we are not
informed as to the proper mode of obtaining it by persons not known as customers
of the firm. In such a case, we think a nominal charge should be made, and plainly
stated on the title-page. Thonsands of plant lovers wonld be glad to buy such &
list, and yet might be too considerate to ask for it as a gift.

Tus Country GentLeman’s Rererence Caratocuz.—This is a bookseller’s
catalogue on anew plan, and especially adapted for those who are readers of books
on rural affairs. It contains the titles, with brief descriptions and prices, of the
best books on such subjects as Botany, Brewing, Gardening, Etiquette, Cookery,
Horses, Dogs, Game, etc., etc. ‘The publishers are Messrs. Horne and Co., 50,
Edgeware Road, London, W.

May’s Bririsu anp Inisu Press Guipz (F. L. May and Co., 160, Piccadilly).
—A well arranged and copious key to the newspaper press. It may be obtained
for one shilling.

Mz. Wortuinaton Samitu has been awarded the Knightian medal by the Royal
Horticultural Society, in recognition of his labours in the discovery of the resting
spores of the potato fungus, Peronospora imfestans.

August.

252 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

SyHE JULY EXHIBITIONS of the great Metropolitan and other prin-
RA] cipal socicties have been chiefly devoted to Roses and other cut flowers
and fruits. The rose shows of the Royal Horticultural and the Royal
Botanic Societies were exceedingly poor as compared with those held at
Birmingham, Hereford, Oxford, Nottingham, and elsewhere. The ex-
ceptionally wet weather interfered very much with the success of the July exhibi-
tions, as it has with all gatherings in any way dependent on the weather.

Tue Perarconivum Socrery held its first exhibition on July 21, in the gardens
of the Royal Horticultural Society at South Kensington, and as the prizes offered
were liberal, the competition was spirited, and a good display of the several classes
of zonal pelargoniums was the result. A few novelties were exhibited, but they
were not of any great importance. The annual meeting of the society was held the
day after the exhibition in the Chiswick Gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society,
and in the evening the members dined together.

Tue Frurr Prizes offered by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, for competition
among-t the gardeners of Great Britain on the 21st ult., resulted in one of the
finest displays of fruit seen this season. The collection of fruit, the pine-apples,
grapes, peaches, and nectarines were all alike remarkable for their splendid quality.
The fruit was arranged in the South Kensington Gardens of the Royal Horticul-
tural Society, and in combination with the pelargoniums, and the large number of
miscellaneous contributions, proved a very interesting exhibition.

Tue Carter Cup, offered by Messrs. J. Carter and Co., the well-known seedsmen,
ete-, for the best collection of vegetables was, in the competition on July 7, awarded
to the Marquis of Exeter. The cup is of the value of fifty guineas, and the most
valuable prize ever offered for vegetables, and in addition money prizes of £10, £7,
£5, and £3 were awarded. The £10 to the gardener of the winner of the cup—
Mr. Gilbert, one of the most successful cultivators of vegetables we have—and the
other amounts, constituted the second, third, and fourth prizes.

Tae Garpenens’ Royat Beneyouent InstrtvTI0n held its thirty-second anni-
versury festival at the London Tavern on July 2, under the presidency of Robert
Broadwater, Esq., Master of the Fruiterers’ Company. The attendance was not so
good as usual, and the horticultural element was but weakly represented. We are
giad to say, however, that the financial results were eminently satisfactory.

A New Heatmve Apparatus.—Mr. Joseph Gadsby, of Metheringham, has,
we learn from the Gardeners’ Chronicle, brought out a new invention tor heating
greenhouses, rooms, shops, &c. The appuratus consists of a very ingenious boiler
heated with one burner of a petroleum lamp ; to this boiler is attached 18 feet of
metallic piping, which becomes so hot through the whole length that you cannot
bear the slightest pressure of the hand upon it. The heat is spent in its operation
on the boiler, so that there is neither smell nor smoke, and so very little heat
escapes that you may bear the naked hand on the escape pipe. Mr. Gadsby has
one in working order on hisown premises, which may be seen at any time, Sundays
excepted. He has not yet ascertained the length of piping it will heat, or the
quantity of oil it will burn in twenty-four hours, but the heat is sufficient to keep
out frost in winter or ripen a late crop of grapes. Mr. Gadsby ligits the lamp
at 8 p.m., and the water is raised to near boiling point within half an hour, after
which the flame is reduced to a given point, at which it is kept until 7 o’clock in the
Morning. There is no diminution of heat, nor any further trouble.

Tue Evenrne Fere of the Royal Botanic Society held on July 14, was well-
nigh a complete failure, owing to the continual downpour of rain during the day-
andevening. Only about 3000 were present, but had the weather been favourable
there would have probably been 10,000, as nearly 7000 tickets were sold before the
day. There was a good display of table and side-board decorations, bouquets, and
hanging and other baskets. ‘Ihe judges for table decorations were Miss Annie
Hossard, Captain Raikes, and Mr. W. Thompson. The gardens were brilliantly
- aeamange by variegated lamps, and at intervals by the electric light and coloured

es,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 253

Tue Royat Horticurturar Sociery is now in a fair way of overcoming some
of its difficulties, for the remaining Kensingtonian members of the council completed
their resignations at a special general meeting held July 8. The principal trade ex-
hibitors united in making a grand exhibition on the 21st ult.

Tue IntexnatTionaL Fruir Exursirion which is to be held at Ghent from the
19th to the 24th of September, in connection with the annual meeting of the
Pomological Society of France, bids fair to prove a great success. ‘The Bulletin
@ Arboriculture contains the full programme and regulations, from which we learn
that there are three committees : one for the Exhibition, with M. Ambrose Verschaf-
felt as chairman, and M. Burvenich secretary; one for the Congress, with Prof.
Kickx as chairman, and M. Pynaert as secretary ; and one reception Committee, to
arrange for banquets, excursions, etc., of which M. Pickaert Echevin, of Ghent, is
chairman, and M. Van Hulle secretary. The President is M. le Comte de Kerchove
de Denterghem, Burgomaster of Ghent, and the general secretary is M. Rodigas.
All communicaticns should be addressed to M. Burvenich. There are seventy-one
classes in the schedule for various fruits, with gold, silver, and bronze medals for
prizes. The Congress will be under the direction of the Pomological Society of
France, and will devote its attention specially to fruits sent for study and compari-
son, to the best modes of training, and to various other matters appertaining to fruit
culture.

Tue British Ber-Kerrers’ Assocratron’s Exhibition at the Crystal Palace
last year was so successful that the committee has been induced to announce a second
exhibition to take plice this year. The work already done by and through the
means of thie Association has awakened throughout tae United Kingdom so great
an interest in bee culture that the committee trust the industry will in a little time
acquire as great atteition and be as much valued for the poor man’s harvest as it
already is on the continents of Kurope and America. About £100 has been al otted
for the prize schedule now announced, which the committee hope will be subscribed
by the friends of the movement, The committee only await the financial means to
extend their operations in various ways that have been pointed out as desirable.
Mr. John Hunter, Eaton Rise, Ealing, Middlesex, is the honorary secretary,

Insectrvoxous Prants.—At a recent meeting of the Edinburgh Botanical
Society, Dr. Balfour readnotes of experiments he had been making on Dionwa
muscipula and allied plants. These experiments confirmed the suspicions enter-
tained by Ellis, Curtis, Hooker, and Darwin that the Dionza is a carnivorous plant.
Dr. Balfour classified the facts he had observed in regard to it under the heads of
irritability, contraction, secretion, digestion, and absorption. The irritability, it
seems, is resident in certain delicate hairs, so placed on the surface of the leaf that
no insect can avoid touching them in crawling over. Dr. Balfour touched with a
needle every other part of the leaf, and no response followed ; but no sooner was
the point applied to one of these hairs than a contraction of the leaf ensued.
Chloroform dropped on a hair caused the leaf to close like a winking eye, but water
liad no such effect. It was only when the object seized was capable of affording
nutrition that the contraction continued for any considerable length of time. A
piece of wood was soon released, and so was a dried fly; but when a live fly or
caterpillar or spider was enclosed the contraction lasted, on an average, for about
three weeks. The leaf at the same time, gave out a viscous acid secretion. This
appeared to be only the case when an insect was captured, and it was always
present on such occasiors ; but whereas with a fat spider it was abundant, with a
shrivelled fly there was very little. The notion that any nourishment was obtained
from insects so enclosed has been controverted ; but Dr. Balfour pointed significantly
to the facts, that young plants of Dionzea under bell-glasses had been found not to
thrive so well as those left free, and that while a piece of leaf wrapped in another
leaf became putrid, a piece enclosed by the Dionza remained perfectly inodorous,
but soon lost its red colour, and was gradually disintegrated more and more till it
was reduced to pulp.

Buancainc Expive.—A writer in the Moniteur Horticole Belge states that
endive may be blanched successfully by being planted in very well-prepared soil at
six inches apart instead of in the usual more open way. When establislied, each
bed is enclosed with planks eight inches wide, set on edge, to prevent the outer
plants spreadiag. When vigorous growth commences, the plants are pressed
close together and blanch without further attention, as the leaves are not injured,

August,

254: THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

as they sometimes are in tying, and they keep much better in the blanched
condition.

Currants.—From Patras, the head-quarters of the Currant produce, we learn
that the crops during the past year have been highly satisfactory—the yield was
61,992 tons against 57,541 tous in 1873. The price for common quality averages
£16 per ton free on board, and £25 for choicest descriptions, which averaged about
ten per cent. less than was paid for the crop of 1873. Of the above total yield the
United Kingdom took no less than 44,827 tons. It is said that the increase in the
Currant crop is due to the very large extent to which waste land has been cultivated
in the Morea during the past ten years. The Currant plant requires seven or eight
years to come to its full bearing, and it is reckoned that with favourable weather
the crop of the Morea will soon reach 80,000 tons. It is satisfactory to learn that
no signs of the Phylloxera have yet been observed on the Currant vines, but it is
nevertheless considered advisable not to import cuttings of Grape Vines from France,
for fear of introducing the scourge.

InproveMents In HorticurruraLt ImpLemMENts.—Agriculture and horticul-
ture should ever go hand-in-hand ; therefore it is appropriate that Messrs. Ran-
somes, who are so well known in connection with agricultural machinery, should
be known in connection with our garden implements. We refer to Messrs. Ran-
some’s Automaton Lawn Mower, which is now, perhaps, as perfect a machine as
can be made. The latest improvements are as follows :—The handles can be raised
or lowered to suit the height of the person using the machine; either corrugated
or plain front-rollers can be supplied at pleasure ; extra side-rollers are sent with
every machine, free of cost, for cutting long grass; an arrangement is provided for
leaving the cut grass on the lawn behind the machine, or delivering it into the box
in front, as preferred, The knives are made of steel and iron rolled together,
giving a sharp cutting edge, which does not wear round and blunt, but the iron
wears away, and leaves the keen steel edge always thin; they are also speeded, so
that the cutting is almost continuous, and no ribs are left on the lawn. The

~ ynaterials and workmanship are of the highest class, and the “Automaton” main-
tains the same reputation as Messrs. Ransome’s other manufactures.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

SwakEsPEARE’S WALLFLOwERS.—To every correspondent who forwarded a
directed envelope, a small pinch of seed has been forwarded. The long and con-
tinued rains delayed the ripening, lessened the quantity, and prevented our send-
ing it in the pod; for to make sure of sufficient, we had to ripen it artificially.
We advise that it be sown at once, or be saved until April next.

Names or Prants.—Jnguirer.—Caper Spurge, Euphorbia lathyris. You might
manage with the frame you propose, but we do not like such little things.
W. B.—The pretty red-berried plantis Nertera depressa. W. Simpson.—Gris-
linia littoralis. R. W. B.—1. Rhododendron jasminiflorum ; 2. Statice profusa ;
3. Cotoneaster thymifolia. The others are imperfect samples, that we can make
nothing of.

Primuzas, ETC.—A. W. B.—The beautiful primulas from time to time reported
on as raised and exhibited by Mr. R. Dean may be heard of by writing to him at
Baling, London, W. It is not likely he will sell seed. Very few raisers of first-
class plants ever sell seed; for the truth is, the seed they have carefully fertilized,
they want for themselves; and as for the chance seed, it does not usually pay to
save it, The only way to insure a good strain of any class of plants is to work it
up by years of patient practice, as the masters do, or else buy plants. To obtain a
really first-class strain from seed at one bound is simply impossible.

Cxrocusrs From Srrp.—A. W. B. says, if the seed of the crocus is sown in a
quiet corner, and kept free from weeds, the bulbs will flower the second year

superbly ; and if the seed was saved from mixed colours, the bloom of the seed- .

lings will present a delightful variety. In A. W. B.’s garden crocuses are produced
from seeds by the thousand. The seed must be dried before sowing it. This cor-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 255

respondent adds: “In this garden ranunculus will never bloom, and in a friend’s
garden, where they are splendid, the crocuses last only one year. Is it a fact that
the two flowers will not do in the same garden?” It is a fact that they do in the
same garden with us, and we could name thousands of gardens in which ranun-
culuses and crocuses thrive in the most satisfactory manner side by side. The
ease put by our correspondent, no doubt, admits of a very simple explanation,
which we think we could give, though we know nothing of the gardens which
furnished the case.

Dovstz Naxciss.—Can you tell me the reason why my double white narcissi
always fail to open their blooming buds? Hvery year they throw up buds in pro-
fusion, but they never expand. They are planted in a very suuny south-west
border, and have been undisturbed for years, and, in consequence, are now in large
clumps, and would be beautiful if the bu’s would open; instead of which they
turn brown and flabby, and wither. I have hitherto attributed their failure to the
spring frosts, but this cannot be the cause this year, as we have hitherto been
remarkably free from frost. I have watered them well, and yet the whole plant
hangs down limp, apparently needing moisture. Can the locality be too hot for
them ? Would they be benefited by being moved into the shade ? And what
would be the best season for moving them ?—Constant Reader. [The situation is
evidently too hot and dry, and to remove them would probably improve the case.
It is seldom frost injures any kind of narciss, but sunshine is decidedly hurtful.
Our collection of 120 varieties is on a border facing east, where the morning sun
shines gaily, but the narcissi are completely screened from the midday sun by trees,
Remove your clumps at once to a rich, moist, shady situation, and have the ground
deeply dug and well manured for them. If the clumpsare large, divide them. ]

SaMPLE oF PEAT.—Amateur.—lt is impossible for us to declare, on seeing a tea-
spoonful of peat, whether it is fit for plant growing or for any particular department
of plant growing. If you had told us what wild plants you saw growing in it, we
might hazard a fair guess as to its value. The sample appears to us to represent a
sour and comparatively worthless bog soil, but we really are not sufliciently cleve
to tell you what is its horticultural value.

Prestwick.—Probably a weak solution of salt and water will cleanse the cab-
bages of the insects that infest them.

Names of Prants—E£hilip.—Deutzia crenata. The splitting of the pears can
only be prevented by lifting the trees and planting them on stations, You put ten
questions in a lump ; if all our readers were equally unreasonable, we should order a
ballvon and steer for the moon. Stourbridge —Bignonia venusta—M, S.—Ruscus
aculeatus. T. P. P—1, Artemisia argentea ; 2, Helianthemum vulgare.

Vartous.— W. Cox.—yY ours is a case of shanking, the result of something wrong
at tlie roots, W. S.—Common zonals will strike well in any sandy compost, and

pots or boxes may be used at your convenience. —— M@.—There are many species of
Eupatorium in cultivation. Yours that flowers in March is probably E. ageratoides,
and the other H. riparia——W. P. Snell—Your seedling cucumber has a fine

deep green colour, attains a large size, is distinctly ribbed, has a few obscure white
spines, and is tender and well flavoured. When it arrived we had an opportunity
of comparing it with several standard sorts, and found it first-rate every way.

W. H. A.—We do not know of any agent for Irish peat charcoal. Try Barr
and Suvden, 12, King Street, Covent Garden.

Srraweerries.—ZJ, OC, B.—It isimpossible to tell you which are the best two sorts
to grow, and it is our rule never to tell people where to go to buy anything that has
become a common article of trade. If you will refer back you will find abundant
information on strawberry culture. As yon want two first-rate sorts to begin with,
we recommend you to secure President and Frogmore Late Pine,

Booxs.—R. Roberts.—The following will constitute a good handfal to begin
with—Hemsley’s ‘“ Handbook of Hardy Trees and Shrubs;’’ Thompson’s “ Gar-
dener’s Assistant ;” Deakin’s “ Florigraphia Brittanica ;’’ MHiboerd’s “ Amateur’s
Greenhouse,” and “ Amateur’s Rose Book; ”’ Sutherland’s ‘“ Herbaceous and Alpine
>; Smith’s “ British and Foreign Ferns ;” and Williams’s “ Orchid-grower’s

anual,

August.

256 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

EXHIBITIONS TO BE HELD IN AUGUST.

2.—PerersoroucH Horticutturat Society.—Axnual Summer Exhibition.

4.—Royan HoxrticutruraL Socrety.—Meeting of Fruit and Floral Com~-
mittees.

4,—WESTON-SUPER-MARE HorTicuLTURAL Soctety.—Annual Exhibition.

5.—NeEwrport anp County HorticuLtTuRAL Socrety.— Annual Exhibition.

6 & 7.—Mancuester Boranicin anp HorticuLTuRAL SociETy.—2xzhibition
of Carnations, Pic tees, and New Plants.

6 & 7.—Cuneapie HorticutturaL Socrety.— Annual Exhibition.

7.—RosENDALE HorticutturAL Soctety.—Annual Exhibition,

10.—Cxiay Cross HorticutturaL Socrety.—Annual Exhibition.

10.—Somerton Corracers’ HorticuLtuRAL Soctety.—Annual Exhibition.

12.—Canterpury HorticcitruraL Socrety.—Annual Exhibition.

18.—RoyaL HorticurturaL Socrery.—Meeting of Fruit and Floral Coin-
mittees. ;

19.—Reavine Horticurturat Socrety.—Autumn Exhibition.

19.—Surron anp Curam HorticuLtturaAL Socrety.—Aznnual Exhibition.

20 & 21.—Bircw Vate anp New Miuts Horticurturar Socrery.—danual
Exhibition.

24 & 25.—Atrxanpra Pauacr, Muswett Hiri.—Evhibition of the Metro-
politan Floral Society.

25 to Sept. 26.—Cotogne.—Inéternational Horticultural Exhibition.

25.—IsLe or THANET HorticuLrurRAL Socrety.—Annual Exhibition.

26.—Royat HorricutturaL Socrety oF IrELAND.—Great Autumn Evhibi-
tion.

* 26 ro 28.—Donpver Horticurturat Society. Annual Exhibition.
27.—Bisuor AucKLAND HorricuLTURAL Society.— Annual Exhibition.
28.— Wak EFIELD HorticuLtTuraL SocieTy.— Annual Exhibztion.
31,_—Bansury HorticuLTURAL SociETY.— Annual Exhibition.

TRADE CATALOGUES.

James Cocker AND Sons, Sunny Park anpD Frocnatt Nurserifs, Aner-
DEEN.— General Spring Catalogue of Soft-wooded Plants.

H. Cannetzt anv Co, 48 & 49, King Street, Woonwicn, 8.E.—Illustrated
Prospectus of the Victoria Hot Water Circulator.

ALExis DaLLiprE, GHENT, Betciom.— Catalogue of Azaleas, Camellias, Rho-
dodendrons, New and Ornamental Plants, ete.

Lovis Van Hourre, Guent, Betatum.—A Catalogue of Stove and Gireen-
house Plants —Also Catalogue of Bulbs.

New Pruant anp Burp Company, Corcuester.— Retail List of Filmy, Tree,
and other Ferns, Orchids, etc.

PInE-aApPLE Nursery Company, Mama Vaz, Epacwarrt Roap, W.—A De-
seriptive Catalogue of Stove and Greenhouse Plants, Roses, ete.

WitutaM Rotiisson AND Sons, Tootinc,S.W.—A General Catalogue of Stove,
Greenhouse, Hardy, and Bedding Plants.

Ant. Roozen anp Son, OVERVEEN, NEAR Haartem, Horianp.—Catalogue of
Tyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, ete.

Tre TuHames Bank Iron Company, Oxp Barce Wuarr, Urrzr Grovnp
Strerr, Lonpon.—Zrade Price List.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 2

ivi
ba |

THE FAIRY ORANGE MOSS.
(With Coloured Lilustration of Nertera depressa.)

eg HE charming little plant which we have ventured to call
the Fairy Orange Moss, and which has been named by
Banks (Gerinfr. I., p. 124) Nertera depressa, has become
such a general favourite that many of our readers, we
feel assured, will be pleased to see its portrait, accom-
panied with a few words on its history and cultivation.

Nertera depressa has been described as a duckweed, but it is a
member of the natural order Rubiacez, an order in which is com-
prised many genera that enjoy high fame in gardens, as, for ex-
ample, mussenda, cyrtanthus, gardenia, cinchona, luculia, bouvardia,
rondeletia, and many more good things. The plant is quite
worthy of such respectable relationships, and is likely to become
one of the most popular of the important order to which it
belongs.

Though nearly hardy, the Orange Moss requires peculiar treat-
ment. It is a native of the bleak, cold Antarctic mountains through-
out the Southern hemisphere, and consequently has a good consti-
tution ; but it is only in kind climates that it may be considered a
proper subject for planting on an outdoor rockery. Its proper place
during winter is in a cool house or frame, where it must be kept
near the glass, and have plenty of air; but from June to September
it should be planted or plunged in the open border, both for the ripen-
ing of the fruit and to maintain the plant in perfect health. This
mode of procedure, renders it the more useful, for it may be grown
in quantities for employment in carpet bedding, and, indeed, it is one
of the most charming bedding plants in the world when densely
covered with its tiny orange-coloured fruit. For the drawing-room
table, also, it is invaluable, and endures without harm the confine-
ment for a few hours, during which time it may be protected from the
drying effect of heated air, and also from dust by covering it with a
bell-glass.

The figure, for which we are indebted to “ Flore des Serres,” t.
2167, represents the plant most faithfully. The growth is dense and
tufted, the leaves are thick in texture, closely packed and moss-like.
The flowers, which appear in May, are of a yellow-green colour, and
altogether unattractive; but the globose fruit follows, and then the
plant is marvellously pretty. It is like a tuft of moss besprinkled with
miniature oranges, hence, for the sake of our lady friends, who tell
us that Nertera depressa is hard to pronounce and impossible to
remember, we have named it as at the head of this article.

StanpisH Memoriat.—lIt is proposed to commemorate the public labours and
private virtues of the late Mr. John Standish by means of a memorial, for which
subscriptions of 21s, each are invited by Mr. H, J. Veitch, Royal Exotic Nurseries,

Chelsea, R
September, lj

e.

258 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ROSES IN 1875.

BY GEORGE GORDON.

= OSARIANS may fairly claim 1875 as one of their great
| years, for there has been an abundance of blooms of the
most excellent quality, and a series of rose shows quite
unequalled as regards their extent, the spirit with
~~ Which the principal prizes were contested, and the
excellency of the flowers throughout. In no previous years have
we had such a magnificent series of exhibitions as in the season
through which we have just passed; and in no year have the blooms,
in the hands of amateurs and trade growers alike, presented a
greater degree of uniformity. Yet it was feared at one time that
the roses would be but little better than they were in 1874; the
weather early in the season was by no means congenial to a healthy
development of growth, for the weathercock pointed persistently to
the east, and there is nothing more trying to the tender growth of
the rose, or, indeed, any other tree, than a prevalency of cold
easterly winds—certainly there is nothing more favourable to the
development of the aphis and mildew, two of the most persistent
foes of the roses. The drought continued, and a period of brilliant
sunshine and great heat assisted the aphis to make such headway
that amateur rosarians began to be troubled about their blooms,
and some of my friends who have to do with light soils were quite
ready to give way to despair, when at last the rains welcome to all
classes of cultivators came. These, if they did not wash away the
blight and the mildew, helped the trees to make vigorous progress,
and grow out of them, as it were, and a good display of bloom was
hopefully looked forward to. From the time of the blooms begin-
ning to open until the exhibitions were all over—and over they are
now—we had no excessively bright or hot weather to hasten unduly
the expansion of the flowers, but sufficient warmth and sunshine to
ensure their development, and no more. The rains were very
trying to the competitors at the later exhibitions, and numbers of
the best flowers were undoubtedly rendered unpresentable, and
more than one of the leading exhibitors of “ seventy-twos” were
compelled to stage blooms that bore unmistakable evidence of
having been impaired by the weather.

The two great events to rosarians this season were undoubtedly
the gatherings at the Alexandra Palace and the Crystal Palace.
The exhibitions at Birmingham, at Hereford, and at Nottingham
were remarkably good, but the first and the last of these formed a
part of a general exhibition, and lacked individuality, and the other
was of less extent than either. It is not necessary to make a com-
parison between the exhibitions held at the two palaces, for both —
were remarkable for their extent and the severity of the competi- —
tion. At the Alexandra Palace close upon five thousand trusses —
were exhibited, and there were but few of the varieties suitable lor

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN QUIDE. 259

exhibition purposes that were not represented. The stands of
blooms were arranged in double lines on each side of the grand
central hall, which is upwards of three hundred feet in length, and
between each double row of stands Mr. Mackenzie had placed a
sufficient number of fine foliage plants and ferns to cut off the view
across the table, and at the same time form a background to each
line of stands. In addition, a few nice specimens of Robina inermis,
commonly known as the mop-headed acacia, were placed at regular
intervals, and their pleasing green foliage had a very refreshing
appearance, in contrast with the glowing masses of colour contri-
buted by the roses. At the Crystal Palace the stands extended in
four lines, from the centre transept to the fountain at the tropical
end, and formed a great display. At Birmingham, the roses were
placed on the central stage of a tent some three hundred feet in
length, two rows of stands on each side with fuchsias between, and
the effect was exceedingly good. The managers of the Nottingham
show were not successful in the disposition of the roses; there was
a good competition for the prizes, which amounted in the aggregate
to £250, and the blooms staged ought to have made a rich display,
but it was otherwise. They were arranged round the sides and
ends of a gigantic tent, and when one was in the middle of the tent
the roses had the appearance of a thin streak of colour, and when
near them the stage upon which they were placed was so arranged
that a very unpleasant impression was produced.

It would take up too much space, besides being wearisome to
the reader, to attempt a detailed report of the several exhibitions ;
moreover it is unnecessary, for all practical purposes will be served
by indicating a few of the best varieties in the several lines of
colour.

We will take the white hybrid perpetuals first; and as they are
not numerous, a few words will suffice to dispose of them. Madame
Lacharme, of which we have heard so much, had a fair trial this
season, and there can be only one opinion, and that is, it is only
suitable for fair weather. Blooms at the Alexandra and Crystal
Palaces, that had not been exposed to stormy weather, and had
been caught just right, were superb; but at later exhibitions ali
the blooms were more or less bad; in many cases the outer petals
were terribly discoloured. It is, however, a superb pot rose, and
supplies a long felt want, for we have no really good white rose suit-
able for specimens. We must therefore very much depend upon
Boule de Neige, Madame Liabaud, and others now well known, for
our white roses, as before.

Passing on to the light pink varieties, I would beg of my readers
to make notes of Mdlle. Marie Cointet, a newish variety, that made
its appearance two years ago, in a very unassuming way. At the
Crystal Palace it made quite a stir; for Mr. Bennett presented two
magnificent stands, with one of which he secured the first prize offered
for twelve trusses of the best rose in the show, anda similar award for
the same number of blooms of a new rose of ’72 or '73, in the face
of a strong competition. It is somewhat similar in build to La
France, but the blooms are rather smaller, and the colour is several

September,

260 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

shades deeper. It is undoubtedly a fine garden rose. Baroness
Rothschild and La France still hold their own as two of the finest
flesh-pink varieties. Duchess of Edinburgh is lighter than either of
the preceding, and is exceedingly fine. Miss Hassard improves
immensely, and may now be considered one of the finest pink roses
we have. Captain Christy, on the other hand, does not improve on
acquaintance. It is very bright in colour, and the form is not bad
when caught right; but it is no sooner sufficiently advanced for
exhibition, than it expands to its fullest extent, and you have a rose
as coarse as a Moutan peony.

From amongst those with flowers of a rose or rose-pink shade
were selected for their high merit, 1Jadame Marie Finger, which
was shown largely ; Princess Beatrice, also popular. Annie Laxton
and Marquise de Castellane are two roses not unlike in character,
have flowers of a bright rose colour, and are well suited for the
garden. Comtesse de Chabrilland is, perhaps, without an equal in
point of form, but rather small. Edward Morren is one of the
finest of the section, large, free, and rich in colour. Hmilie Haus-
burgh is also good; so are Francois Michelon, Henri Pajes, Julie
Touvais, Leopold Hausburgh, Madame Alice Dureau, Madame
George Schwartz, Mdlle. Eugenie Verdier, Paul Verdier, Reine du
Midi, Richard Wallace, rather new, and remarkably fine, and Victor
Verdier.

The moderately dark roses represented by Alfred Colomb consti-
tute a most valuable class, for they mostly possess a good constitu-
tion, the flowers resist the effects of bad weather, and have a telling
appearance in a’stand of blooms on the exhibition table. John
Stuart Mill well sustained in the competition its character as a
desirable acquisition to its class. Mrs. Laxton, one of Mr. Laxton’s
seedlings, bids fair to take a foremost position, for the blooms
presented by the raiser at the Alexandra and Crystal Palaces were
very fine, surpassing in shape and colour that grand variety, Marie
Baumann.

Here it may not be amiss to refer to a very interesting competi-
tion at Birmingham. Mr. Laxton offered a prize for the premier
bloom in the exhibition. This was no easy task for the judges, for
there were several thousand blooms to be selected from; but atter
some time spent in comparing the blooms in the stands, a bloom of
Senateur Vaisse was selected from the stand of seventy-two set up
by Messrs. Cranston and Mayos, and one of Marie Baumann from a
stand from Mr. Corp; and in the end the Senateur was voted the
prize, and thus one of our oldest;roses was decided to be the best
rose in the show.

In addition to the foregoing, the following are indispensable :—
Thomas Mills, Alfred Colomb, Beauty of Waltham, Camille Ber-
nardin, Charles Lefebvre, Countess of Oxford, Etienne Levet, Expo-
sition de Brie, Madame Charles Crapelet, Dr. Andry, Madame Victor
Verdier, Maurice Bernardin, and Miller Hays.

Of the crimson section represented by General Jacqueminot, on
the one hand, and by Xavier Olibo, the best this season have been,
in addition to the two here mentioned, Pierre Notting, Duke of

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 261

Edinburgh, Horace Vernet, Le Rhone, Reynolds’ Hole, a rather
new variety of considerable merit, and Prince Camille de Rohan.
More than these are not required, excepting in the largest collec-
tion.

All the foregoing are Hybrid Perpetuals. Tea-scented and Noi-
settes were well represented at the exhibitions, but all notice of
them must be deferred for the present.

FIRST-CLASS BULBS IN POTS.

BY BR. OUBRIDGE,
Church Walk Nursery, Stoke Newington.

RWeBARKET growers require very few sorts of bulbs, but

i #}| they use large quantities of those few, the selection
being regulated by the price and the quality. (ood
sorts they must grow, and those they depend on are
certainly the best, price being considered. In hyacinths
the favourites are, Homer, Vainqreur, Voltaire, Charles Dickens,
Grand Lilas, Alba superbissima, L’Ami du Coeur. In tulips the
favourites are Van Thols, Pottebakkers. In narcissi, the polyanthus
section, of which there are several splendid varieties.

The amateur needs more variety, and consequently while the
market sorts are equally useful in the private garden, they are not
all-sufficient. A lady or gentleman taking a pleasure in the garden,
does not wish to see the same kinds repeated and repeated. Hence
it is desirable for amateurs to grow collections, but for special deco-
rative purposes some of the very cheap showy kinds should be
grown in quantity. I was greatly interested in a collection of five
hundred sorts of hyacinths grown by Mr. Hibberd two years ago,
and the more so because that gentleman honoured me with the
order to obtain the bulbs, and I saw the collection several times
when in flower, and was surprised to find amongst so many, com-
paratively few that were not worth growing, whereas I should have
expected to find fully one half or more to be utterly worthless.
Some seven years back Mr. Hibberd flowered an enormous collection
of tulips, that I watched in the same manner, and then there
occurred comparatively few that were not thoroughly good. Of
course no ordinary amateur needs such large collections, and it is
one of the duties of those who contribute to the horticultural
journals to point out the best among many, in order that readers
may be well advised both as to the expenditure of money and time,
for the bad things cost as much as the good ones, or, at all events,
the difference in first cost is trifling, and as to time, there is as
much consumed in growing bad plants as in growing good ones.

The system we follow in growing thousands of bulbs for
Covent Garden Market will answer admirably in the management
of a collection in a private garden. We plant all our bulbs,

September.

262 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

hyacinths, tulips, narciss, crocuses, etc., in the same compost,
which consists of equal parts of rotten manure and turfy loam
that has been laid up some time, with about a fifth part or less
of sharp sand. We pot nearly all our bulbs in 48 size, putting
one hyacinth, three tulips, and five crocuses in a pot; but of
course not the same pot, This is the best course, generally speak-
ing, for the private garden, the 48 size being so useful. But there
are two useful deviations that I will mention. We send to market
Van Thol and other tulips in the most perfect state, three or more
roots in a pot. Now it must be understood that these perfect
samples are Rot grown in the pots, but in shallow boxes. From the
boxes they are taken when the flowers are just open and carefully
potted. This plan insures uniformity, for when several bulbs are in
one pot they may not all open their flowers at the same time, but
when flowered in boxes, we can select them so as to have in every
pot plants of the same height and all in the same state as to the
bloom. The other method is Mr. Hibberd’s. He flowers hyacinths
and tulips superbly by potting one hyacinth in a large 60 size, and
one tulip in a large thumb or small 60 size. There is only one small
crock put in, and the compost consists of at least two parts fat
manure to one of loam. The great advantage of this system is that
when the bulbs are in flower a number can be packed close together
in a vase or basket, and the most sumptuous of spring decorations
can thus be most easily provided. It may be well to add, that in
potting bulbs, one small crock to cover the hole in the pot will be
drainage enough, and that all the bulbs should be quite covered with
soil. In the trade catalogues it is advised to leave hyacinths half
out, but experience has taught me that they do much better when
quite covered. After potting keep them dark and cool, and give no
water until they begin to grow; then bring them into the light, in a
pit or greenhouse, and keep fairly supplied with water until they
flower, and if you wish to keep them, take equal care of them after
they have flowered, until the leaves die down.

24 Cunap First-cuass Hyactntrus.—Amy, Waterloo, A-la-
mode, Blocksberg, Grande Vedette, Amphion, Diebitz Sabalskanki,
L’Ami du Cour, Madame Hodgson, Lord Wellington, Norma,
Robert Steiger, Alba Superbissima, Grandeur 4 Merveille, Grand
Vainqueur, La Candeur, Queen Victoria, Baron Von Tuyll, Charles
Dickens, Grand Lilas, Couronne de Celle, Mimosa, Orondates,
Heroine.

30 Exrra rine Hyacinrus, For Sprcrmens AND ExuHIBI-
T1oNs.—Albion, Van Speyk, Argus, King of the Blues, General
Havelock, Laurens Koster, Alba Maxima, La Grandesse, Madame
Van der Hoop, Mont Blanc, Snowball, Queen of the Netherlands,
Bouquet Royale, Fabiola, Tubiflora, Lord Macaulay, Mrs. Beecher
Stowe, Solfaterre, Von Schiller, Cavaignac, Prima Donna, Princess
Royal, Ornement de la Nature, Haydn, L’ Unique, Due de Malakoff,
ana of Paradise, Chateaubriand, La Tour d’Auvergne, Noble par

erité.

24 Frrst-cuass Earty Tunres.—Duchesse de Parma, Belle
Alliance, Bride of Haarlem, Canary Bird, Chrysolora, Cottage Maid,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 263

Couleur Cardinal, Couleur Ponceau, Golden Prince, Grootmeester
Van Maltha, Joost Van Vondal, Keizerkroon, Le Matelas, Ma plus
Aimable, Pottebakker, white ; ditto, yellow ; ditto, striped ; Proser-
pine, Queen of the Violets, Rembrandt, Roi Cramoisie, Roi Pepin,
Samson, Thomas Moore.

G6 Frest-cuass Dougie Tunirs.—Van Thol, in three sorts,
yellow, carmine, and scarlet, Rex Rubrorum, Tournesol, Imperator
Rubrorum.

12 Suprrs Crocusrs.—Albion, Argus, David Rizzio, Gloriosa,
Havelock, La Satinee, Lilacens, Lord Palmerston, Mont Blanc, Ne
Plus Ultra, Othello, Sir Walter Scott. All the foregoing are whites
and blues of various shades and styles, and all exquisitely beautiful.
As they want yellows to bring them out, you must buy a sufficient
quantity of the two best yellows, Cloth of Gold, and Largest Golden
Yellow.

6 Fine Poryantruvs Narcrss.—Bazelman Major, Double
Roman, Grand Monarque, Grand Soleil d’Or, Jaune Supreme,
White Pearl.

NEW NOTES ON THE HYACINTH.

BY J. E. SAUNDERS, ESQ.

SHHN the early part of the present year I availed myself of
b8| an opportunity of visiting, in company with a friend,
some of the principal bulb farms in Holland, and 1
| am bound to say that I enjoyed myself thoroughly.
4 22 From London to Rotterdam, either by the boats of the
Steamship Navigation Company or by the Great Kastern Railway,
and boats by way of Harwich, is not an unpleasant or an expensive
journey, and takes up very little time; and once at Rotterdam, there
is not much difficulty in reaching the bulb-growing districts about
Haarlem. My friend, I may with advantage add, was well acquainted
with several of the leading bulb growers, and we therefore met with
a hearty welcome, and had a better opportunity for visiting the
farms and nurseries than would be enjoyed by strangers having no
business with, or letters of introduction to, any of the growers. No
one must suppose that they have only to call at the house of one of
the growers and prefer a request to inspect the farm to insure his
receiving permission to do so, and the offer of a guide to show him
the principal objects of interest and explain the various details con-
nected with the multiplication and cultivation of byacinths and
other bulbs for the English markets. No; for if such suppositions
are indulged in, disappointment must ensue. The Dutch bulb
growers, like the English nurserymen, make no pretence of throwing
their grounds open to the public, and they set too high a value on
their own time and on that of their employés to admit of them
furnishing guides to those with whom they are not likely to do any
trade. In this they do no more than their own interests justify.
September.

264 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

On my arrival at Haarlem, I am bound to confess I felt some
little disappointment ; and I believe all who visit the district during
the spring of the year feel more or less disappointed. We all know
that hyacinths are grown in immense numbers, I should be afraid
to say how many, and that tulips, crocuses, and other bulbs are grown
in proportion ; and those who take an especial interest in flowers
expect to see the fields on all sides sheeted with the rich colours of
the hyacinths and the brilliant hues of their more showy congeners
the tulips. There was certainly plenty of all the leading spring-
flowering bulbs in bloom, but they bore no proportion to my
expectations and the expectations of others, and certainly failed to
make the powerful impression on my mind that I, before setting
out, thought would be the case.

In inspecting one of the largest farms in the neighbourhood of
Haarlem, and with the proprietor as guide, I said, “I am very much
disappointed in the bulb farms, for I expected to see the fields now
gay with the hyacinths and such tulips as bloom at the same time,
whereas those in bloom are but a very small proportion of the
whole.” ‘ Ah,” says our guide, ‘‘ you are just like all who visit us
for the first t m3; you suppose that we allow all the bulbs to pro-
duce their blooms every year. We do nothing cf the kind, for we
have to produce strong bulbs that will bloom satisfactorily when
they are placed in the hands of the purchaser.” And with a hearty
desire to give me all the information that he could, he proceeded to
say that from the time the offsets are removed from the parent bulb,
and it is by these that the stocks are mostly increased, a period of
four or five years is required before the bulbs are of sufficient size
and strength to produce spikes of first-class quality. Some of the
varieties produce so few offsets that the old unsightly bulbs are put
by, and previous to their being again planted have a slice taken off
the under side, or they are partly split through at the base, and this
manipulation encourages the production of offsets in a remarkable
manner. The offsets are removed from the bulbs when they are
lifted in the summer after attaining maturity. The following
autumn they are planted rather thickly in lines. They are lifted
when the foliage dies down, and in the autumn they are again
planted, and more space is allowed them; and this process is
repeated until the fourth year, when the strongest bulbs are selected
for sale, and the others are grown another year, and, in some cases,
two years; but as a rule they are disposed of after the fifth year,
and those which have not attained their full size or proper degree
of solidity are put on one side for the cheap mixtures sold for bed-
ding purposes.

The flower-spikes are annually removed as they make their
appearance ; for if they were allowed to bloom, they would be of
little use, excepting for propagating purposes, as they do not in
Holland, any more than they do in England, bloom satisfactorily
twice. It will thus be seen that the bulbs require much attention
and labour to be bestowed upon them before they are in proper cor-
dition for sale; and when we think of this, we ought not to be-
grudge the sixpence or the ninepence we have to pay for a first-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, 265

class bulb of one of the established kinds. We ought rather to
feel thankful that we can obtain them for such comparatively small
sums.

In the catalogue of the proprietor already alluded to, there are
upwards of four hundred varieties, and there are, undoubtedly, more
than that number; for three years since a trial of five hundred
sorts was made at Stoke Newington by our worthy Editor. This is
a large number, end more than is really required, and I expressed my
surprise that so many should be grown. “ But,” says the proprietor,
“‘we growers have a large constituency, and nearly every purchaser
has a preference for some one or two varieties that no one else cares
about, Again, it is too much of a sacrifice to make away with a
stock of any particular variety otherwise than slowly, even if it is
surpassed by others of more recent introduction. There is a demand
for all the varieties in the catalogue, and so long as the demand con-
tinues we must continue to meet it, or refuse money, and that is
quite out of the question,” observes my friend; ‘‘but there are at
least two hundred which could be dispensed with, and for any one
who grows hyacinths for his own entertainment fifty will suffice.”

I inquired of him the names of the varieties he should recommend
in the selection of fifty varieties for home decoration, the majority to
cost sixpence each, and none to exceed ninepence, purchased in the
ordinary course of trade in the country, and he readily gave me a
list of the fifty varieties selected from his collection, which is one of
the best in Holland. So far as my experience goes, a better selec-
tion could not be had unless some of the higher priced varieties were
included ; but it will be generally agreed that this assurance on my
part is hardly needed.

The varieties are as under:—Single, dark blue.—ZLa Nuit,
Mimosa, Prince Albert, William I. Single Light Blue— Argus,
Baron Van Tuyll, Charles Dickens, Cowronne de Celle, Emilius,
Grand Lilas, Grande Vedette, and Orondates. Single Carmine and
Crimson.—Amy, Duchess of Richmond, Homerus, Robert Steiger, and
Veronica. Single Red.—Belle Quirine, L’ Ami du Coeur, Madame
Hodgson, and Norma. Single Rose-shades,—Emmeline, Cigantea,
La Dame du Lac, and L’Ornement de la Nature. Single White.—
Alba Superbissima, Grande Vedette, Grandeur a Merveille, Grande
Vainqueur, La Candeur, Madame Van der Hoop, Mirandoline, Oron-
dates, and Queen Victoria. single Yellow.—Alida Jacoba, Heroine,
Koning Van Holland. Single Mauve.—L’Ami du Creur, and
LT Unique. Double Blue.—Albion, Blocksberg, and Othello. Double
Carmine and Crimson.—Bouquet Tendre, Princess Royal, and Str
Joseph Paxton. Double Red.—Maidame Zoutman, Regina Victoria,
and Wellington. Double White—Anna Maria, La Virginite, and
Prince of Waterloo.

There are but few double varieties, for they are not so easy to
cultivate, and they do not have such a pleasing appearance when at
their best as those with single flowers. On the Continent they
have adopted a practice of potting from eight to twelve bulbs in
one pot, and, when in bloom, they have a very effective appearance.
They make a very pleasing change from the single bulbs in small

September.

266 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

pots, and I would recommend those to whom the expense of the
bulbs is not a serious matter, to grow a few specimens in this way.
It will, perhaps, be better to make a beginning with specimens con-
sisting of six or eight bulbs, and to employ eight or nine-inch pots.
The principal points in the cultivation of specimens are to select
none but thoroughly reliable varieties, and to put one sort only in
each pot. The best kinds for this culture are Baron Van Tuyll,
dark blue; Charles Dickens, bluish lilac; Grand Lilas, azure blue ;
Amy, dark red; Belle Quirine, bright red ; Veronica, deep red ;
Alba Superbissima, Grandeur a Merveille, and Madame Van der
Hoop, white, and white shaded.

I hope it is not expected that I should say much about the culti-
vation of hyacinths, for it is so simple, and so many excellent
treatises have appeared in the F'Lorat Wortp upon the subject that
nothing further appears necessary. I will add that my bulbs are
potted in September in a mixture of two parts turfy loam and one
part well-rotted manure. Five and six-inch pots are employed,
according to the size of the individual bulbs. They have a good
layer of erocks placed in the bottom, the bulbs are buried to about
two-thirds of their depth, and the soil pressed firm; the pots are
then placed on a hard bottom out of doors, and covered with a layer
of cocoa-nut fibre refuse, about a foot in thickness, which is sufficient
to keep out the frost. When the pots are nicely filled with the
roots, and the growth an inch or so in height, they are taken from
the plunge-bed and placed in'a frame, and near the glass. They
are protected from frost, supplied with soft water as required, and
as they come into bloom are drafted to the conservatory. I do not
attempt to force hyacinths, and I should not advise amateurs to do
so, for with the foregoing selection they wili have a long succession
of bloom from quite the early part of March. Provided the bulbs
are of good quality, and are purchased and potted early, a compost
such as I have recommended employed, due care taken to remove
them from the plunge-bed as soon as they are sufficiently advanced,
and when they are in the frame to keep them near the glass and
properly supplied with water, the spikes will be large and of first
class quality, and the foliage be stout and ofa fine deep colour. The
plants will, in fact, resemble the examples met with at the public
exhibitions which amateurs usually regard with some degree of
wonder.

NOTES ON NEW BEDDERS.

BY WILLIAM GARDINER.

have been introduced to public notice, and only a small
proportion of these possess any real value, and a very
few words indeed will suffice to pass the leading bedders
; under review.

The leaf-plants, now so extensively employed for carpet bedding

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 267

and for marginal bands round beds of flowering plants, have appeared
to wonderful advantage this season in comparison with the flower-
ing plants, for from the day they were putin the beds until the
present moment they have presented a most bright and attractive
appearance. ‘This is more than can be said of those grown for their
flowers, for during a great part of the summer the latter have
presented a somewhat dismal appearance, owing to their producing
so few flowers. It was at one time thought that the Golden
Chickweed would have been a formidable rival to the Golden
Feather, but, after two seasons’ careful trial, the latter still holds
its ground ; and it must be said that the chickweed is hardly re-
quired. In cool, moist weather, it grows loose, and has a greenish
yellow colour ; and in hot, dry weather, it perishes in patches, and the
blanks of course spoil the appearance of the bed. In nice friable
soils, with an extra amount of care, it is very effective, and, by way
of a change from the Golden Feather, most useful. In reference to
the latter, it may be said that many amateurs do not as yet
thoroughly understand its proper management. The plants are
usually put out too large, and the stopping is not commenced soon
enough. When planted rather small, and the hearts pinched out
nearly close to the ground as soon as they begin to push up a
flower-stem, they produce a large number of small side-shovts,
and, by pinching off the tops of these occasionally, the lines
can be kept perfectly level with very little labour and no real
difficulty.

The Golden Fleece thyme is a useful yellow-leaved edging plant,
and as it is hardy, it can be wintered safely in a cold frame, which,
to many amateurs, will be found a great convenience. It is of neat
growth, and forms a compact line about four inches in breadth and
as much in height.

Another exceedingly useful yellow-leaved edging plant is Robert
Fish geranium; it is very dwarf and compact, usually attaining a
height of six inches; and as the leaves are of a rich yellow, and the
orange-scarlet flowers are produced abundantly, it is very effective.
This geranium should be grown more extensively than is at present
the case for edging purposes, as it makes a pleasing change to the
golden-leaved pyrethrum.

No new dark-leaved plants have been introduced for some time.
The comparatively new Alternanthera amena spectabile is a strong-
growing form of A. amena, and therefore valuable in gardens in which
carpet bedding is carried out on an extensive scale; but for the
garden of the amateur it is of but little value. They both have
foliage of a brilliant colour, and are of so slow a growth that it is
needful to plant them very thickly, not farther than two inches apart ;
and the number of plants required for a moderate sized bed is very
large. The most useful Alternanthera is 4. magnifica, which grows
so vigorously that it may be planted four inches apart, and it is,
moreover, effective in colour. ‘There is as yet no Coleus to surpass
C. Verschaffelti. splendens, which is several shades brighter than C.
Verschaffelti. The most useful of the comparatively strong-grow-
ing dark-leaved bedders is Iresine Lindeni, for with a free, yet

September,

268 : THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

compact growth, it combines a rich tone of colour. Ajuga reptans
atropurpurea deserves general attention, for it is dwarf and com-
pact, has rich bronzy leaves, and, moreover, is perfectly hardy. For
a band from six to twelve inches in width, I know of no more use-
ful plant.

‘We have absolutely nothing in the way of silvery-leaved plants
that can be considered new. Leucophyton Browni has recently been
brought forward as a bedder, but it is not new, neither is it adapted
to the requirements of amateurs. It is rather difficult to propagate,
and requires more than a usual amount of attention to keep it in
proper trim. The most useful white or silvery-leaved plants are
Cerastivm tomentosum, and Echeveria secunda glauca for marginal or
divisional lines, and Centaurea ragusina for central blocks or for
front lines in association with rather tall-growing geraniums.

Verbenas have done exceedingly well with me this season, and,
in fact, in the district generally. I have a somewhat extensive col-
lection, and the following varieties are, in my opinion, the best in
cultivation for bedding purposes:— Blue Boy, duck blue, flowers
rather large; Celestial Blue, light blue; Crimson King, crimson-
scarlet, very brilliant in colour, fine habit, the best of the scarlet
varieties; Hvquisite, pink, a pretty variety, and the best of the
colour; King of Bedders, crimson-scarlet, free, and of good habit;
La Grande Boule de Neige, the best verbena with pure white flowers ;
Lord Raglan, an old strong-growing variety, with salmon-scarlet
flowers ; Mrs. Mole, lavender, distinct and good; Purple King,
purple, distinct and good; Sprite, pale flesh-pink, pleasing in colour ;
Wonderful, deep plum-colour. Verbenas require, for their success-
ful cultivation, an open situation, and soil that has been stirred
deeply and enriched with a good dressing of manure or leaf-mould
some time in the winter previous to planting.

Several new lobelias have made their appearance within a com-
paratively short period, and two or three of these may be regarded
as most desirable acquisitions. Bluestone is one of the best of the
new varieties, belonging to the speciosa type, and is most valuable,
for the flowers are of an intense indigo blue, and as there is no white
eye to interfere with the general effect, a band or block is exceed-
ingly rich and telling. It is a capital companion to Blue King,
which has self-coloured light blue flowers, and is one of the best in
its tone of colour. Puwmila magnifica is one of the finest bedding
lobelias distributed for many years past. It is of free, vigorous
growth, attaining, under ordinary conditions, a height of six inches,
and it is quite as compact as the well-known Pumila grandiflora.
The flowers are of a fine deep blue, and the plants bloom so freely
that throughout the season they are perfectly solid with bloom.
It is one of the very finest lobelias with blue flowers in cultivation,
and as it may now be had at less than a shilling per plant, it is
within the reach of all. Duchess of Edinburgh, a white variety, sent
out by Mr. Charles Turner in the early part of the year, is pretty
and compact, and well adapted for front lines. Lwstrous is not new,
but it is so good that it ought to be extensively grown ; the flowers
are of a fine deep blue, with white eye, and the plant, although

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 269

compact, is vigorous, and produces a profusion of flowers throughout
the season.

With reference to petunias, heliotropiums, ageratums, and other
odd subjects, it does not appear necessary to say much, for they are
of secondary importance, and no new kinds, possessing any merit,
have been added for some years past.

A COMBINATION OF CLEMATIS AND ROSES.

awe’ is not my intention to write a treatise on the cultivation
4| of either roses or clematises, for although we have a
fair collection of both of these flowers, and usually have
a fine display of bloom during the summer season, I do
not consider myself competent to instruct others. Our
garden is of the old-fashioned type, with roses in abundance every-
where, borders of choice herbaceous plants, and afew beds of summer
flowers, such as geraniums, verbenas, and similar plants. Our resi-
dence is also somewhat old-fashioned, and it would be difficult to
say to which architectural era it belongs. This point is a matter of
no consequence, and my object in writig to you about it is to say
that its walls are clothed with flowering plants, and, amongst other
things, roses and clematis have a place. We have some of the most
free-growing of the hybrid perpetuals trained over some part of the
walls, and we have some of the early summer-flowering clematis also,
but it is of neither of these that I wish to write.

What I am anxious the readers of the Frorat Wortp should
know is this. We have in front of our house two plants of Gloire de
Dijon rose, and the same number of Clematis Jackmanni, and these have
been so trained as to entirely cover the wall, which is forty feet long
and about twenty feet high. The shoots of the roses and the clematis
have been so intermingled, that the large, deliciously-scented cream-
coloured roses and the purple clematis are somewhat regularly inter-
mixed over the entire surface, and the effect is really magnificent,
and the majority of our friends consider it one of the most beautiful
combinations they have ever seen.

I intend covering two large wire arches in the garden with roses
and clematis, and shall, in November next, plant on each side of
the arch, a plant of both, and train them in much the same manner
as on the front of the house, and I believe that the effect will also
be exceedingly good.

When we planted the roses and clematis against the house
some years since, we had a liberal quantity of good farmyard
manure dug in, and we have every winter-time applied a good
dressing of partly-decayed manure and covered it with soil to pre-
vent its being unsightly. Neither roses nor clematis will thrive
unless the soil is tolerably rich. The clematis requires to be pruned
well back every winter, otherwise the bottom of the plants become
quite bare in the course of a few years. They should, in fact, be
pruned, so that there is an equal distribution of young growth all
over the plant. A Lavy SvpscriBer.

September.

270 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

THE EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS.
BY M. BOULADE, HORTICULTEUR, LYONS.

= HE scientific world has lately been much busied with the

ivi xesults attained by the acclimatization of this new plant
in France, and we must own to having been somewhat
[~ mistrustful of the wonderful qualities attributed to it.
~ Desiring to procure thoroughly authentic information
on the subject, we haveavailed ourselves of a friendly acquaintanceship
with several residents at Cannes, and their reports, taken in conjunc-
tion with the specimens forwarded to us, have left no room for further
doubt in the matter. It was on 6th May, 1792, that the Eucalyptus
was first observed, on the shores of Van Diemen’s Land, by Labillar-
diere, who was engaged with Entrecastreaux in the search for La
Perouse ; it was only in 1856 that it was brought into France by M.
Ramel, who, taught by long Australian experience, had recognized
the advantages derivable from its cultivation, and desired to secure
them to his native land.

The tree, an evergreen, attains a height of 180 to 250 feet, and
sometimes more. The “Tasmanian Blue Gum,” by which name it
is also known, belongs to the myrtle family; it is a tree witha
tetragonal head, the younger leaves subcordate and opposite; the
others alternate, variously petiolated, coriaceous, unicoloured, shining
as though varnished, apiculated, and often somewhat pseudo-convo-
lute at the base, or narrowly lanceolated. The flowers are axillary,
duplicate or ternate, sessile or furnished with a short, broad, de-
pressed peduncle. The floral buds are wart-like, wrinkled or smooth,
with a double operculum.

Wherever it grows the Eucalyptus is always full of sap. In the
South of France, it blossoms all the year round, and continues
perennially green as in Australia. It has a balsamic odour some-
what suggesting that of the walnut, and slightly terebinthine,
arising from a volatile essential oil, which exists in abundance in
the leaves.

M. Ardisson, pharmacien at Cannes, has obtained from the Eu-
ealyptus the following products :—An alcoholic tincture ; an ethereal
tincture ; two essential oils ; two kinds of gum possessing different
resinous properties. Dr. Gimbert has undertaken to investigate the
therapeutical properties of these preparations.

The Eucalyptus possesses many remarkable properties. When
young it has the shape of a pyriform mass, but it changes rapidly in
accordance with the climatic conditions to which it is subject. Some-
times it widens at the base, and throws up oblique aspirant branches ;
most often the trunk rises straight and branchless, and terminates
in a crown of foliage. In such cases, the height of the foliage above
the ground, and the vertical position of the leaves have the advan-
tages of not impeding the sun’s rays in their passage to the ground.

At Cannes, seedlings planted in May, in suitable soil, attained a
height of 20 feet in the course of eight months. The growth during

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 271

the second and third years is as rapid as in the first; afterwards, as
the tree increases in girth, it is slower. Eucalypti, eight to ten years
old, have an average height of 60 to 65 feet, and an average girth, at
20 inches (50 centim.) above the ground, of 48 to 44 inches.

For some years past the Eucalyptus has been as common about
Cannes as the Platanus in the neighbourhood of Lyons. It is stated
that an Eucalyptus planted at Hyeres, in 1857, is now over 25
metres (81 feet) in height. From observations and calculations that
have been made, it is estimated that in re-wooding, results might
be thus obtained in fifteen or twenty years, which with ordinary
timber would take 100 or 120 years. Tbe wood is excellent, and
owing to the resinous principle contained in it, it keeps well. In
Australia it is used for ship-building purposes. M. Ramel saw
planks 180 feet in length.

The absorbent powers of the roots, and the aromatic exhalations
from the leaves, impart to it the qualifications peculiarly suitable to
the sanitation of marshy sites. It is remarkable that wherever the
tree grows well, the climate is particularly healthy ; it may, indeed,
be regarded as an antidote to marsh fevers.

M. Malingre has grown it in Spain, and M. Trottier in Algeria ;
the latter gentleman, who entertains the most hopeful anticipation
of the results, lately read the following report before the Agricul-
tural Society of Algiers :—

“A hectare (2) acres) of land planted with Eucalypti, in rows
six metres apart, with three metres between the trees in each row,
will contain 500 trees. These, if well managed, should be 20
centim. (7ft. din.) in girth, at a height of 2 metres (6ft. 6in.), above
the ground at the end of the third year. Wood of this size is fit for
many purposes in waggon-making, and would now fetch at the rate
of five francs a tree ; the first thinning would thus produce 2500
francs. In eight years’ time, the remaining timber will be large
enough for railway purposes, and will fetch 20 frances a tree. One
hectare of Eucalypti would thus give a gross return of 6200 francs
in the course of eight years.”

After what has been said above, the interest which attaches to the
acclimatization of this plant will readily be understood. Unfortun-
ately, the attempts hitherto made at Paris and Lyons have not been
altogether satisfactory in their results. We are inclined to think
that a mistake was made in setting out the trees, whilst yet too
young, and not adequately sheltering them against the winter cold ;
but this need not give rise to discouragement ; we feel confident that
better directed efforts will be crowned with success.

Tus Poraro Disease is prevalert throughout the country, and it is probable
that quite one-third, if not more, of the potato crop will be destroyed.

Tue Frvurr Crov or 1875 will long be remembered as one of the largest crops
for many years past. There was an abundance of small fruits of all kinds, and it
is much to be regretted that such large quantities were rendered worthless by the
rains. Stone-fruits of all kinds are most abundant, and in some parts of the country
the plum trees were fairly broken down by the heavy crops; and of peaches and
nectarines there are fairly good crops of excellent quality,

September,

to

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

~
‘

GIGANTIC GOOSEBERRIES.

BY T. RICHARDSON.

shows are held in Lancashire, and one or two other
northern counties, and these, although less attractive
than exhibitions of flowers, possess a considerable
“ue ~=-« degree of interest, and the preparation of the fruit for
exhibition affords the growers no small amount of innocent and
healthful amusement. The prizes are awarded invariably for the
heaviest fruit, which in some instances are shown singly, and in
others in pairs, classes being as a rule provided for the heaviest
fruit in the several colours, and for pairs or “ twins,’ as two fruit
shown together are technically termed by the growers. The towns
in which the principal exhibitions of gooseberries have been held of
late years are Attercliffe, Southwell, Newark, and Dronfield, and in
common with the exhibitions of celery, and other specialties, excite
great interest among the growers and their friends.

As the weight of the fruit is the test of merit, the largest varie-
ties are planted, and every effort is of necessity made to develope
the fruit to its fullest extent, and the time and labour bestowed upon
the trees would quite astound residents in the southern counties,
where exhibitions of gooseberries are quite unknown. An experi-
enced grower will begin by procuring young trees furnished with
about three shoots each; these are planted in soil that has been
liberally enriched with manure, and deeply dug or trenched to a
depth of about eighteen inches. The shoots are trained out hori-
zontally, those having an upright tendency being brought down by
large pegs, and those which hang down are supported by props, as
an horizontal position is considered of prime importance. The
shoots are pruned back to about seven inches in length, and in the
course of the season each produces several laterals ; if these are too
much crowded, a portion are removed during the summer, and at the
winter pruning, which is usually performed in November, two of the
strongest laterals on each of the three primary shoots are selected,
and cut back to within about seven inches of their base, and the
others are removed close to the main branch. These laterals, in
their turn, produce the following season a number of young shoots,
and at the winter season two of the strongest are selected as before,
and pruned back to seven inches, and all the others are removed.
In subsequent years the cultivator aims at keeping the trees thinly
furnished with strong healthy shoots, as it is upon the vigorous
shoots of the previous season that the finest fruit is produced. The
tree is not allowed to become overcrowded with wood, because of
the risk of the shoots being drawn and becoming more or less
weakly ; and they are not thinned too severely, as a full exposure
of the fruit to sunshine is not favourable to the attainment of a
large size.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 273

Great attention is also paid to the roots, and every two or three
years they are carefully pruned, those extending farthest from the
main stem being shortened moderately ; and a trench is opened out
round the tree, in advance of the roots, and filled in with a compost
consisting of about equal parts of soot and manure, and into this the
roots soon push. ‘The trees are also mulched, partly decayed stable
manure being usually employed ; and they are also liberally supplied
with water, both at the roots and overhead ; and need it be said no
caterpillar is allowed to obtain a footing upon the leaves. The fruit
is also thinned severely ; not more than two or three are allowed to
each shoot, and additional assistance is afforded the fruits by placing
saucers of water underneath them. By this means fruit of an
enormous size is obtained; but as they are grown to be admired
rather than to be eaten, it matters not that the quality is indifferent.

The most popular of the Lancashire or show gooseberries are as
under ; and as indicative of the size they attain under the system of
culture briefly sketched out in the foregoing remarks, I have
appended the heaviest weight on record of each. Those marked R.
have red, W. white, Y. yellow, and G. green skins.

Antagonist, W., 34 dwt. 21 gr. High Sheriff, Y., 28 dwt. 2 gr.

Beauty, R., 31 dwt. 6 gr. Leader, Y., 28 dwt. 14 gr.
Careless, W., 31 dwt. 19 gr. Leveller, Y., 30 dwt. 11 gr.
Catherina, Y., 32 dwt. 8 gr. London, R., 87 dwt. 7 er.
Clayton, R., 32 dwt. 8 gr. Mount Pleasant, Y., 31 dwt. 4 gr.
Conquering Hero,R., 3ldwt. 1lgr. | Overseer, W., 29 dwt. 12 gr.
Dan’s Mistake, R., 31 dwt. Ploughboy, R., 30 dwt. 21 gr.
Drill, G.,32 dwt. Shiner, G., 31 dwt. 19 gr.
Fearless, G., 27 dwt. 10 gr. Stockwell, G., 30 dwt. 18 gr.

Great Western, Y.,26 dwt. 3 gr. | Thumper, G., 30 dwt. 9 gr.
Green Overall, G., 27 dwt. 6 gr. | Wonderful, R., 33 dwt.

GRAND DISPLAY OF HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS.
BY A TOWN AMATEUR.

eq) OWE you no end of thanks for the joys you have enabled
é | me to snatch from a little garden that is often dimmed
by the smoke of London. Above all things I am thankful
for the many wise advices given us in the FroraL
j Wortp on the selection of beautiful hardy plants that
are cheap and lasting, and need no particular care at any season. I
have now hundreds of such good things, and all my purchases have
been made under the guidance of the valuable monthly to which I
send this very humble contribution.

Reflecting lately on the trouble I used to incur to keep one of
my borders gay with bedding plants, I resolved to follow your
advice, and collect hardy flowers. When they began to swarm about
me—for I devoted the front borders of my kitchen garden to many
of them—TI made a selection for the border referred to. The plants

that have proved the most showy are the common Crimson Pony,
18

September,

274 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN QUIDE.

the red and white varieties of Anemone Japonica, the fern-like

_ Spirea filipendula, the yellow Alyssum, the white Arabis, the very
showy Armeria dianthoides, Aubrietia deltoides, Delphinium for-
mosum, Dianthus hybridus, Geranium sanguineum, Iberis corifolia,
common White Lily, Monarda didyma, a few crimson and rose-
coloured Phloxes, a very large variety of Primula acaulis, comprising
single and douhle flowers of all colours; the very large-leaved Saxi-
fraga cordifolia, Sedum fabaria, Trollius Asiaticus.

It will be observed that the selection is a small one, and whoever
(as a beginner) consults a trade catalogue will be tempted to add a
great many more, only to discover that they are not adapted to make
a brave show. Select largely if you like, but do not expect a grand
display. Those that I have reserved for my borders, and have given
the names above, are splendid things, and I could not part with one
of them. The border is a hundred feet long by ten feet wide, the
background being a fine lot of evergreens. It must be understood,
however, that it is not planted with these few herbaceous plants only,
and thereby hangs a tale.

It was in the month of September that I prepared and planted
the border. The preparation consisted in a deep digging of two
spits, and the incorporation of a very liberal allowance of fat hotbed
manure as the work went on. Isent to Mr. Ware of the Hale Farm
Nurseries, Tottenham, for such plants as I wanted, and got them in
their places when the weather was fine, and they were well esta-
blished before winter. Now it is not enough to say that I planted
such and such. I must add that I repeated at regular intervals all
the more showy subjects, and planted everything according to its
height when in flower, and as I allowed plenty of room. there were
plenty of gaps that wanted filing. These I planted with clumps of
cheap bulbs, for a gay display in spring, and when May came round
I turned out alot of geraniums that had grown lanky, and these lighted
up the border gloriously. With a good foundation of hardy plants
of the very best kinds, we can easily add to the richness of such a
border, for nothing comes amiss, provided only that it is really showy,
and all the better if it is sweet scented.

Independent of this very noble border, I followed a suggestion
of our Editor’s for what he calls a “Sensation bed.” I laid out a
bed eighty feet long, and put in the centre twelve clumps of Tritoma,
with thirteen clumps of White Lily alternately down the centre.
Along the sides I planted in regular alternations Spirea palmata,
Spirea aruncus, Sedum fabaria, and Astilbe Japonica. The last
named is the favourite “‘Spirea Japonica” of the nurseries, but as
it is an Astilbe I give it its propername. Strange to say, although I
value it much for forcing, I think it quite a poor garden plant.
This bed is gorgeous when the tritomas are out, and it is at all
seasons respectable. At the time of writing this there are about a
hundred and fifty spikes of tritomas just coming into colour, and we
had a splendid bloom of white lilies in July. The Spirza palmata
I obtained by division from one plant which I purchased when the
truthful picture of it was published in the Ftorat Worip. The
plant cost me half a guinea, and I thought the money well spent.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ho
“J
Or

SELECT BEDDING GERANIUMS FOR SMALL GARDENS,

BY JOHN WALSH.

©33\ WING to the dull and excessively wet weather which has
of late prevailed, the bloom of the bedding geraniums
is this season less satisfactory than usual, and the plants
are making an extravagantly vigorous growth. They
"are, indeed, growing so strong, and procucing such stout
and soft shoots, that I anticipate some little difficulty in obtaining a
sufficient supply of suitable cuttings. Fine weather during August
may be more favourable to the production of a fine growth than has
been the case up to the present time, but it will have to be very hot
and very dry to check the plants much, as the ground is now so tho-
roughly saturated with moisture, and we shall soon have the heavy
night dews, which are so conducive to the production of sappy wood.
In anticipation of the difficulty that is likely to be experienced in
the propagation of the usual stock of geraniums, I have considered
it desirable to direct the attention of the readers of the Froran
Wortp to the importance of commencing the work earlier than
usual, and also to the necessity of bestowing more than the custom-
ary care on the selection of the cuttings, and to the desirability cf
departing somewhat from the usual practice.

Although the geraniums have not blossomed so abundantly, or
presented so brilliant an appearance as usual, they have been much
brighter and more effective than the majority of the bedding plants
grown for their flowers. Whilst the verbenas have had the colour
well-nigh washed out of them, the calceolarias have had their flowers
knocked off, and the petunias weighed down to the ground with the
wet, the geraniums have stood up bravely against the weather, and
as fast as the rains have knocked off one set of flowers, another set
has taken its place. This season the bright scarlets, the deep pinks,
and the pure whites have appeared to the best advantage ; for even
whilst the flowers were saturated with wet, and everything out of
doors as dreary as it well could be, these colours presented a bright
and cheerful appearance. But we hope to have weather of a more
favourable nature during the next six weeks at least; and should
this be the case, varieties with flowers of an intermediate shade will
again assert their claims to our attention, as in past seasons.

There are no very striking novelties to be reported on this year.
A few of the more popular varieties will be replaced by others of the
same line of.colour and character ; but by far the largest proportion
of the varieties that have been in commerce some time will have to
be retained. Veswvius still remains one of the best of the bright
scarlet varieties, and this year its compact habit, short, stiff flower-
stalks, and neat trusses, have appeared to wonderful advantage in
comparison with the more robust nosegays, with their gigantic
flower-heads. Flamingo is somewhat similar in habit to the preced-
ing, but has rather larger flowers, which are of a deep crimson
searlet colour. iss Maud Holden, a new variety, bids fair to be

September,

276 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

an excellent bedder ; it is very dwarf and free, has flowers of the
~ most brilliant scarlet. The season has not been favourable to it, and
it would not be prudent to speak too positively about it. Grand
Duchess, deep crimson, and Beauty of Wilts, light orange scarlet,
are also full of promise as bedders. Corsair, now known as one of
the finest scarlets for pot culture, is also a good bedder, and can be
strongly recommended; it is compact in growth, produces good
trusses in abundance, and the flowers, which are quite circular, are
of the brightest scarlet, and have no white eye. Zwcius has long
been well known as one of the finest of the strong growers, with
cerise flowers ; for throughout the season it bears a profusion of
noble flower trusses. It is now surpassed by Mrs. Hetley, which is
of a similar colour, but a few shades brighter, neater in habit, and
blooms rather more profusely. I have now had it two years, and con-
sider it one of the best I have added to my collection for some time.

I have not a large number of white varieties in my collection,
for most of them are so unsatisfactory, that I have considered a few
only worth keeping. The best of those I now have is White Clipper,
and I have no hesitation in recommending it in preference to all the
others. In common with other white varieties, it is very robust in
growth when planted in rich soil, or in wet seasons like the present,
but it fowers more abundantly than either of the others, and the
flowers are of the purest white. An undue luxuriance may be
checked in ordinary seasons by plunging the plants in pots, or by
filling the bed with some poor sandy soil, should the ordinary soil
be too rich. Some of the newer varieties with pink flowers are
exceedingly good. Of the pink zonals, not more than two or three
are required, because of the fine things we have amongst the pink
nosegays. If only one is required, Mrs. Haliburton should be
selected in preference to all the others. It is free and compact; the
flowers are borne very profusely, and are of the brightest rose
pink. If three are required, add Mrs. Upton and Bella ; the latter
is an improved Christine.

Amongst the nosegays will be found some of the very finest of
the geraniums suitable for bedding purposes. Chunder Sen has a
dwarf spreading habit, and bears large trusses of orange scarlet
flowers. Charley Casbon is very dwarf, and bears neat trusses of
flowers of a brilliant scarlet colour. Star of Fire has brilliant sear-
let flowers, which are produced in large trusses, and the habit is
extremely good. Bonfire surpasses Stella, Waltham Seedling, and
all the nosegays of that class; it has a compact, robust habit, the
flower-trusses are large, and the colour is a rich crimson scarlet.
Soleil is the best of the orange scarlet series. Lady Kirkland is
unequalled amongst the purple crimsons, and a superb bedder.
Forest Hill Nosegay is the best nosegay with salmon flowers.
Violet Hilb Nosegay has the finest habit of any of the nosegays, and
blooms freely ; and wherever a purplish salmon colour would be
suitable, it should be planted. We have now some grand things
amongst the pink nosegays. J/rs. Hole is of dwarf growth, the
colour bright pink. Mrs. Fytche, rather strong growing, with noble
trusses of deep pink flowers. Amaranth has purplish pink flowers,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 277

borne in noble trusses. Drs. Augusta Miles and Welbeck Nosegay
are also good bedders, and can be recommended where a large
number of varieties are required.

The above comprises the very cream of the geraniums grown
for their flowers, and I would advise my readers to commence with
as little delay as possible the work of propagating a stock for next
year. The medium-sized shoots should be selected, and the cuttings
be inserted in a border facing the south, or in an open quarter.
They should be dibbled in, a few inches apart; and unless the
weather and the soil are very dry, they should receive no water what-
ever. In any case, they should not be watered until after the third
or fourth day of their being inserted. But few will damp off, pro-
bably not more than five per cent. ; whereas, if they are inserted in
pots, and shut up in frames, according to the orthodox method, quite
fifty per cent. at least will, in all probability, perish, as the shoots
are now so full of sap. Some care will be required in taking the
cutting, so as not to spoil the appearance of the beds and borders
at this early period; and a few of each variety should be taken at a
time, to avoid making any blanks. The variegated varieties must
also be propagated early, and in the same manner as recommended
for those grown for their flowers. -

[The foregoing was written for publication last month, but came to hand too

late. We advise those who are now propagating geraniums to put the cuttings in
pots.—Ep. F.W.}

PLANTS—THEIR STRUCTURE AND USES.

BY MR. J. E. TAYLOR, F.G.S.,

Curator of the Ipswich Museum;

<=7==—) SERIES of lectures on the above subject has been delivered in the Tem-
iM INS) perance Hall, Ipswich. In his first lecture, Mr. Taylor confined his
BAN, Hi attention to the very lowest forms of vegetable life, and explained the
ALYary material from which both animal and vegetable forms were constructed.
He proceeded to show that all organisms are cellular, and these mere cells
had in some instances an individual existence. These atoms or diatoms, as they are
called, were to be found in plenty in rivers, and it was their constant formation and
decay which produced the greater part of the black mud of therivers. These minute
organisms, which were first considered to be animalenle, would be found, on close exa-
mination, to be composed of material similar to that which entered into the composi-
tion of flint, and they could bo passed through fire without injury to their form. After
giving interesting information as to the structure of these organisms, Mr. Taylor
stated that their powers of reproduction were so great that a single diatom, in some
species would, in the course of four days, have produced 140,000,000, which would
perhaps all be contained in two cubic feet. Owing to their rapid growth and ac-
cumulation, harbours in some parts of the world rapidly became silted up, and
herein lay the secret of one of the greatest engineering difficulties, They formed
the greater part of the mud of rivers, and its blackness was owing to their decom-
position. They were concerned in the struggle for existence continually going on
in the world, and they must and would live, for God had made them to live. By
putting the sewage into the river, they rendered the water fitter for the growth and
life of these plants, in the same way asthe land would be fertilized by its de-
Were thereon, and they were thus aiding the silting up of the shallow waters of
the river.

September.

278 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

All plants, he said, in his second lecture, under whatsoever conditions they lived
—whether on the earth, in salt water or in fresh—were divided into flowering
plants, or those that bring forth seeds and fruits, and non-flowering or cryptogamic,
whose fructification is concealed. The latter class, which until lately received
but scant attention from botanists, included such familiar forms as fungi, lichens,
mosses, ferns, and soon. Of this class, also, were such diseases as smut and rust
in barley. Seaweeds, which were of this class, were well known in appearance to
everyone ; inreality, they were exceedingly small structures, commencing with
cells. An examination of seaweeds would show them to be possessed of a large
quantity of mucilaginous material, which was secreted from the minerals in the
ocean by absorption, but not by means of the roots, as was the case with some
other kinds of vegetation. By this means they not only built up the solid parts of
their frames, but served to keep the sea pure. From capsules growing at the end
of branch-like projections were emitted male and female spores, which having
served the object of reproduction, were cast in some nook in the ocean to begin
life as seaweeds. Mr. Taylor proceeded to speak of the microscopic fungi, of which
he said there were at least three thousand species ; they grew in the utmost luxuri-
ance; and assumed such strange conditions that it required no small amount of
observation to follow them through their various changes. The transitions by
which the caterpillar passes to the gorgeous butterfly, which had always been held
to be the most wonderful instance of metamorphosis that could take place without
changing the individual organism, were nothing as compared with the different con-
ditions of these fungi. The best known of this species of plants was fatal to
potatoes ; a single spove would settle on a weak plant—in all nature it was to be
observed that the weakest went to the wall—and so rapidly would its increase take
place, that in a few days a field of many acres in extent would have caught the
infection. The spores were emitted with a slight jerk from the capsule, were
caught by the wind and borne no one knew whither. When the disease had once
settled on a field the only thing to be done was to mow down the tops and make
what use was possible of the unripe tubers. There was but one means of baffling
the potato disease. It did not appear before the month of August, and therefore by
producing early yielding potatoes, which come to maturity before the pest sets in,
its ravages might be avoided. Other well known forms of microscopic fungi were
what were commonly known as mildew, dry rot, cheese mould, and bread mould.
Another species of mould frequently attacked jams, but it was to be resisted by
simply tying down the tops of the jampots while the jam was still at a temperature
of 200 or 300 degrees, instead of letting it stand all night to harden and stiffen, a
chance being thus given to the atmosphere to rain down these spores in countless
millions. These plants were at the bottom of many diseases. A horrible disease,
prevalent in Poland, which mats the hair together, and that disease with which all
mothers are only too familiar, which causes the interior part of the mucous mem-
brane of infants to become white, and is commonly known as “ Thrush,” were
both to be attributed, along with the ring-worm and many other diseases, to the
prevalence of microscopic fungi. In seeking, therefore, to discover and check tke
workings of these tiny plants, scientific men were engaging in as philanthropic
an undertaking as ever human philanthropists devoted themselves to.

Tue Bamspoo.—A pamphlet has been published at Cairo by the Agricultural
Department of Egypt, on the Indian Bamboo, which, it is said, is being acclima-
tized there with great success. We append a few notes therefrom : —The gigantic
bamboo, which is of colossal dimensions, growing to the height of 20 métres,
with a circumference of 40 or 50 centimétres at the base (say 65 feet high and 15
to 18 inches in circumference), from the joints of which, especially those of the
middle and upper parts, grow numerous branches with long leaves, is the most
vigorous species of this arborescent plant. It was introduced some years ago into
the gardens of the Khédive of Egypt, at Ghézireh, from whence it has been mul-
tiplied in two or three other gardens in Egypt. It was so much admired by the
Emperor of Brazil, on his visit to the gardens of the Khédive last autumn, that
he expressed his determination to import it into Brazil, and to cultivate it upon
the Imperial estates as a shade for animals during the heats of summer. The
gigantic bamboo originates in India and China, and is highly appreciated wher-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 279

ever it is cultivated, being used for posts in pavilions and the houses of the inha-
bitants. The hollow joints are utilized for carrying liquids, for flower-vases, etc. ;
and in China, and especially in India, for bottles and tobacco-boxes, highly wrought
and polished, and sold at great prices. The larger stalks are also used for bridges,
water pipes, and carts and other vehicles. In fine, the wood is employed in the
arts, in a multitude of industries, and for implements of agriculture. This species
of bamboo vegetates with such rapidity that it can almost be said that one can see
it grow. Its progress may be seen from day to day, and at Ghézireh it has been
known to grow 9 inches in a single night. In China, criminals condemned to death
are subjected to the atrocious punishment of impalement by means of the bamboo.
A humid soil is congenial to the gigantic bamboo, although it suffers under a pro-
longed inundation. It is proposed in Egypt to cultivate it upon the borders of
the canals in the vast domains of the Khédive. There is also in the gardens of
Egypt another species of bamboo, believed to be the Bambusa arundinacea of
Wildenow. It presents the following characteristics; the stalks are smaller and
shorter than the gigantic bamboo of India; it attains about 12 metres (39 feet) in
height ; it forms larger tufts or clusters than the great bamboo, and throws out a
greater number of stalks, which are furnished with numerous slender and flexuous
branches, bearing ordinarily tolerably large thorns, a little arched at the joints or
articulations, and the leaves are smaller than those of the gigantic species, being
rounded at the base, lance-shaped, tapering to a point, and a little downy. There
is another species of bamboo which it is proposed to cultivate in Egypt. It attains
a height of 5 or 6 metres, produces enormous clusters of canes, about the size of
the finger, and makes excellent props for use in horticulture. A plant of two or
three years’ growth will furnish a hundred stalks, forming a cluster of vast size.
This species is the Bambusa edulis, so called from the fact that its young shoots are
edible, and in China regarded as very nourishing. There is still another species
of bamboo to which the attention of the cultivators in Egypt is called. It is the
black bamboo (Bambusa nigra). It is distinguished principally by its slender
branches, which are of a fine black colour, and from which canes are manufactured
extensively for exportation. Pens are made from the smaller stems, which are
commonly used for writing in Egypt.—Journal of Applied Science.

NEW HYBRID HELLEBORES.

HE following seedlings are the grand results of the cross-fertilization of
Bl HT. abchasicus with H. guttatus, and others. Their general superiority
to the older varieties consists in a much improved form, more floriferous
habit, larger and finer flowers, of more distinct and in some cases
dazzling colour. The leaves of these valuable species have nearly all
the same character ; they are about twelve inches in diameter, sharply toothed,
dazzling dark green with lighter ribs and lines, on taller stalks, according to their
age, more or less inclining and evergreen, as damaged foliage is always replaced
by anew growth. Dr. Koch, in referring to them in the pages of a contemporary,
says: ‘“ These historical notes will doubtless interest your readers, because the
species last named have yielded, through cross-fertilization, varieties of rare beauty
and diversity, which I cannot too strongly recommend to them. And should any
reader of the Gardeners’ Chronicle wish to become better acquainted with them, I
am quite ready to play the part of mediator, as I am convinced that at this time of
the year there are no more beautiful or more useful plants than these hybrid Helle-
bores.” These magnificent hybrids originated in the Berlin Botanic Gardens.
Messrs. Ant. Roozen and Son, Overween, near Haarlem, Holland, who will offer
them in the autumn, have kindly sent us the undernoted descriptive particulars :—

Seedling No. 1.—Flowers beautifully formed, three inches in diameter, bright
dark purple and rose colour, with numerous carmine red streaks, charming leaves,
rich and early variety.

Seedling No. 2.—decidedly the finest and most remarkable hybrid raised till
now (vide Gar. Chron. p. 480, 1874), flowers of fine form, stately, and well above
the leaves; petals finely cut and covered, very large, often three inches in diameter ;
colour pale brown and purple-rose, with numerous sharp bordered, dazzling, dark
carmine red spots, splendid variety.

September,

280 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

Seedling No. 3.—Flowers irreproachable in form and attitude, very large and

free flowering, of dazzling purple-rose colour.
_ Seedling No. 4.—Smaller flowers, but in other respects exactly the same as

Seedling No. 3.

Seedling No. 5.—Flowers very large and flat, fine form, three inches in dia-
meter, petals finely cut and covered, colour snow white, very recommendable plant.
_ Seedling No. 6.—Flowers of a very fine pure white, from two to three inches
in diameter ; their rich blooms, held up on tall foot-stalks, give to this variety a
remarkably gay appearance.

Seedling No. 7.—Fine formed pure white flowers, the centre of the petals
covered with small red spots, forms a red star on the white ground of the flowers.

Seedling No. 8.—Flowers very large, fine formed and flat, the flower stalk held
far above the leaves ; coloured like small orchids, snow-white, with large round,
nicely bordered dark purple-red spots, splendid variety.

Seedling No. 9.—The spots are smaller and less remarkable, than of Seedling
No. 8, in other respects of same merit, very fine.

Seedling No. 10.—Large white flowers, with countless waxy red spots, forming
a star like Seedling No. 7.

Precox major.—Large snow-white flower, earlier than all the forenamed
varieties, very recommendable on account of its free flowering qualities.

SENDING FLOWERS BY POST.

= ORRESPONDENTS who send flowers for our opinion are greatly dis-

{| appointed when they learn that “ your flowers were dried up when they
came to hand, and we can offer no opinion of their merits,” yet such is
a common occurrence, and one of the wonders of editorial experience.
For it is a wonder, to say the least of it, that people who grow flowers,
and who know much about them beyond what may be seen and learnt in the
garden, should expect them to travel safely when merely wrapped in dry paper or
put loosely into chip boxes, and then committed to the post. As an experiment in
hay-making, this mode of transmitting bits of vegetation in hot weather may be all
very well; but that is not the intention ; the senders of the dessicated scraps wish
us to see them as they see them, fresh and bright, that we may say whether in our
judgment they are good, bad, or what else. Now, let any of these disappointed
correspondents consider for a few moments one aspect of the subject. Suppose the
flowers on which our opinion is desired are now growing at York, A, B, or C, the
grower thereof, purposes to forward them to us. He cuts them perhaps in the
morning, when they are at their best, puts them loosely into a chip or pasteboard
box of some sort, taken haphazard from a drawer or closet. He seals up the box,
and commits it to the post, and perhaps he attaches a proper number of stamps,
We say “perhaps” here advisedly, because sometimes we have to pay sixpence.
eightpence, or more, for these packages, and in every case of that kind we fling
them away as far off as possible, and know nothing more of them ; time is too
precious to be wasted in asking people to refund what we have been mulcted of, and
experience has taught us to deal in a summary way with every species of annoyance.
But suppose they are delivered free (as we are bound to admit is the case generally
speaking), they are as a rule twenty-four hours old when they are received at the
office. The next thing to be done is tosend them on to Stoke Newington, and
there may be a little delay even to the extent of half a day or so between the
receipt and the despatch of the flowers. We will now allow three hours to elapse
ere they are delivered at Stoke Newington, whether by post or carrier, and we may
consider another day to have elapsed ere we see them, or say from thirty-six to
forty-eight hours from the time the flowers were cut. But here another delay
is possible. Editors occasionally leave home—not often, it is true—and another
whole day or so may pass just at that particular juncture when A, B, or O’s
flowers, already worn out by travel, are seen by the person to whom they are
addressed. Here is the case as we are familiar with it, make what you please of it,
friends. This is not the first or second time we have endeayoured to make the path
easy for cultivators to obtain our opinion on their flowers, and having shown how
the case commonly fails, we will proceed to remark on the conditions of success.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 281

At this point we are reminded of a great lot of flowers that lately reached us in a
state of absolute perfection. Those flowers came from the extreme north of England
and were subjected to several small delays, yet when we opened the package they
were as fresh and as bright as if just gathered, and we were enabled to place all
the bunches in vessels filled with water, and have a good leisurely look at them
ere saying a word as to their qualities. They were skilfully packed in a close
fitting square tin box, one foot deep and fifteen inches square, the lid of which
fitted accurately. Within this was a sort of wooden cage formed of very thin laths,
say half an inch wide and an eighth of an inch thick, which was lifted out bodily.
Within this cage the flowers were packed in bunches, every bunch being surrounded
at the base with moss, and all of them bedded in a mass of moss at the bottom of the
cage. The moss was moist, the tin box almost air-tight, and the flowers came out
almost as fresh as when they went in, though nearly forty-eight hours had elapsed
from the time they were gathered till the time we saw them. We remember a
similar case occurring in the early part of last year. Messrs, Barr and Sugden
desired us to see a collection of Ixias grown by one of their agents in Jersey, and they
were sent from Jersey direct, and we had them in a state of perfection. The bunches
were tied round with moss at the base, and were laid one upon the other with a
little damp moss sprinkled between them in a long, deal box, and above them a few
cross-bars of wood were fixed with nails, so that in the event of the box being turned
upside down, or even thrown from hand to hand by the carriers, the flowers were
so fixed by the cross-bars that not one could move, and therefore no ordinary con-
cussion could harm thes. An occasional correspondent sends us leaves and flowers,
and sometimes cuttings of plants, simply folded in oil paper and enclosed in common
envelopes, and they generally arrive in a condition not only such as admits of fair
judging, but we can strike the shoots if desirable, and we have, in fact, several
plants obtained from cuttings sent in this simple way. The grand thing is to arrest
evaporation ; this the damp moss accomplishes in one case and the oiled paper in
the other. Common tin-foil is also a preservative of leaves and flowers sent by post.

In the case of subjects that cannot be submitted to pressure, a box of some kind
is essential. The Post-office authorities properly refuse to carry boxes with sharp
edges, and any tinman will quickly make a box of any size, for a mere trifle, with
the edges rounded, so that the Post-office regulations need not be infringed. But
weoden boxes even if of the most fragile kind, will usually answer the purpose, if
the flowers are packed in it tight enough and sufficiently fixed to prevent injury by
shaking, yet loose enough that they do not injure each other by pressure, with
a slight amount of moisture to keep them fresh; but in no case should they be wet,
for that may cause as much mischief as extreme dryness.

A common error in packing flowers for the post is to bed them in masses of dry
cotton-wool. We do sometimes receive good samples packed in that way, but com-
monly the juices are drawn from them by the cotton-wool, and they come to hand
shapeless, shrivelled, and indeterminable. It is not always possible to obtain tin
boxes and other specially prepared receptacles, and the boxes that seidlitz powders
are sold in, the wooden boxes, two or three inches over, in which tooth-powders
are sold, and the small wooden barrels, about four inches high and two or three
inches in diameter, in which many housewives keep such things as arrowroot, and
in which some grocers pack coffee and spices for sale, are severally suitable, and in
most houses are ready to hand. Card and paper boxes are generally uot so trust-
worthy as wood or tin, on account of their liability to be crushed, and the excessive
evaporation of moisture from their contents. Given a suitable box, the-rest is very
easy. A little damp moss will be found the best of packing, and if the flowers are
firmly bedded in it, they will continue fresh for two or three days. Not long since,
we sent a boxful of flowers a long journey to a friend. They were packed in a long
deal box—a sort of fig-box—with clippings of privet above and below, and the
flowers carefully laid together, without ties, but as it were in a heap, the small
clippings of privet serving to fill up, and to keep them from being shaken on the
journey. They reached the friend in a perfectly fresh condition, though the journey
comprised three separate changes from rail to rail, and from rail to carrier’s cart.
Freshly gathered ivy-leaves, and even fresh grass-mowings, answer admirably,
without any addition of water ; in fact, fresh green leaves of any kind will do, and

if bruised, as in the case of clippings of privet or mowings of grass, all the better.
8. H,

September.

bo

82 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

HOW TO TAKE IMPRESSIONS OF PLANTS.

paws, HE advantage of being able to take accurate impressions of plants
: | without much labour need not be pointed out to those who can appreciate
what is useful. It is not brought forward as a substitution for dried
specimens, where these can be obtained and attended to ; but as being
less cumbersome it deserves notice, as a means of refreshing the memory,
in very many instances, ina manner equally satisfactory as when specimens are
employed. It has, further than this, no claim to novelty, but simply to usefulness.

The materials required are few, and these not expensive. One pennyworth of
lampblack and one pennyworth of sweet oil are all that will be required beside the
paper. A large sheet of paper should be provided, and this should be prepared by
rubbing it evenly all over with a piece of flannel moistened with the oil; this must
be done thoroughly, and when the paper is well moistened, but not in a wet state
with the oil, a small quantity of lampblack should be laid evenly over it, also using
flannel for this part of the operation. If this preparation can be made a day before
using the paper, it will be so much the better. The next process requires great
care :—Having the prepared sheet in readiness, place on it evenly and flatly the
plant, flower, or leaf, of which an impressiun is required ; then place over this a dry
sheet of paper, and with a handkerchief or cloth press firmly over every part, that
it may equally and regularly receive the black preparation. The paper intended to
-eceive the impression should now be in readiness, and the specimen must be care-
fully removed and placed on it, and great care must be taken that its position is
not changed; this, too, must be again evenly and firmly pressed as before, and the
impression will be complete, and mast be laid carefully aside to become dry. A
specimen or two can be tried on a spare sheet, in order to ascertain whether the
blackened sheet is in a proper state of preparation, before it is attempted to take a
very careful impression. This is particularly valuable in preserving sketches of the
leaves of rare and yaluable plants,

NEW INVENTIONS.

EVorce’s Patent VentiLArinc Frames.—aAt several of tho great exhibitions of
garden implements these frames have been certificated, and have met with general
approval, hey are the invention and manufacture of Mr. Voice, of Horley,

VOICE’S PATENT SYSTEM OF VENTILATING GARDEN FRAMES.

Sussex, and have for their object to combine with the cheap portable frame, the
conveniences of a greenhouse, the ventilation of the common frame being a quite
haphazard affair. The figures show that the lights are levered so as to balance each
other, but the very easy way in which the lights can be moved and air given at the
discretion of the cultivator, cannot be clearly demonstrated by any figure. We advise
those of our readers who are interested in such things to write to Mr. Voice, and
obtain his illustrated pro spectus.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 283

Vorce’s Pxa TRELLIs is by the same inventor. It is the best and cheapest sub-
stitute for sticks we have yet met with, and has the advantage that it may be pre-

VOICE’S SYSTEM OF TRAINING RUNNER BEANS.

served for years. It consists of suitable uprights and a streng wire net, to which
the peas or runner beans cling readily, and soon obtain a firm hold.

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR SEPTEMBER.

When autumn, bleak and sunburnt, do appear,
With his gold hand gilting the falling leaf,
Bringing ap winter to fulfil the year,
Bearing upon his back the riped sheaf;
When all the hills with woody seed are white,

When levying fires, and lemes, do meet from far the sight :
When the fair apple, rudde as even sky,
Do bend the tree unto the fructile ground,
When juicy pears, and berries of black dye,
Do dance in air and call the eyne around ;
Then, be the even foul, or even fair,

Methinks my hearte’s joy is stained with some care.

THomas CHATIERTON.

a} URICULAS to be housed for the winter, and watered very sparingly.
Look over the stock in removing thera to the frames; see if slugs are
hidden in the hole next the crocks; and if the surface of the soil in the
pots has moss or liverworts growing on it, you may be sure there is
something the matter with the drainage, which see to at once.

Bepprxe Prants struck in the open ground must be potted towards the end of
the month. In all cases a poor sandy soil and plenty of drainage must be used,
especially if the plants are to be kept in pits or other places where they will be
exposed to a low temperature during hard weather.

Canzace to be planted out for spring supply on ground well manured. Collards

September,

284. THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

planted close will now be getting crowded, so draw for use as soon as possible every
other one, and ply the hoe between them.

Capsicums AND Tomators may be gathered before they are ripe if needful, and
ripened by laying them on a shelf ina warm greenhouse.

Carnations.—Layers to be potted or transplanted, as soon as rooted, in sandy
soil; avoid rich soil or stimulating manures, as they must not be encouraged to
make much growth, or they will get a gross habit, which will be very detrimental
during winter, for then it is necessary that they should rest.

CavLIFLowER to be pricked out into frames for the winter, and to be kept as
hardy as possible.

CurYSANTHEMUMS require plenty of water, and twice a week manure-water, but
se a drop of the latter to touch the leaves. See to any tying that has been neg-
ected.

CINERARIAS, PrimunAs, CaLceonartas of the herbaceous class, and other soft-
wooded plants now growing freely, should be carefully looked over to see that they
are in a fit state for housing as required. Some will want a shift; some will be
found invested with fly, ete. None of these things should suffer for want of water.

Crops of apples and pears to be gathered now as they ripen, always selecting a
nas sunny day for the purpose, if possible; be careful to preserve them from

ruises,

Enp1vE to be planted out on warm well-manured borders, to stand the winter.

FLoweErine Survps to be forced for the conservatory should now be thought of,
to have them potted up and plunged ready to be taken in to force. Plants that
have made good growth in the open ground are best for this work, such as Lilacs,
Kalmias, Daphnes, Andromedas, Polygala chamebuxus, Ledum latifolium, Rhodora
canadense, double-flowering plums and cherries, Azaleas of the nudiflora section,
Weigelas, ete. Put them into as small pots as possible without doing any serious
harm to their roots, and plunge in a bed of cocoa-nut waste, in a sheltered position,
till required to go to the forcing-house.

Guaprort to have very little water now the bloom is declining ; when the soil
in the pots is nearly dry, lay the pots on their sides in the full sun, to promote
their ripening. Those in beds will take care of themselves till time to take them
up.

Harp-Woovep Prants must be kept well aired and in full sunshine, to ripen
the wood and give them strength to pass the winter in an ordinary greenhouse
temperature. Heaths, Epacrises, and Pimelias, to have free ventilation, and the
rank shoots pinched in, to preserve uniformity of growth.

LEttvuces required for use in winter to be planted out, a portion in frames, and
another portion on a warm sloping border. The cabbage kinds will bear frost with
the least injury. Some forward plants of cos put out now on a rich warm border
will come into use late in the autumn.

Lintums to be treated the same as recommended for Gladioli. Give water till
the leaves begin to fade, then lay them on their sides.

Mint to be potted for spring forcing. There is in almost every family a
demand for mint before it can be supplied, and the only way to make sure of it is
to pot it.

Musnrooms.—Prepare the bed for winter supply. ‘The first thing to be done is
to collect plenty of short unfermented dung, or if only long dung can be had, pick
out the long straw and lay it in small heaps to ferment gently, and turn it every
three or four days till it produces only a gentle heat; then make up the bed.

ParstEy sown in July to be thinned, and the thinnings planted if needful.
Remove all the plants that show single leaves.

Peacnes AND NecTarinE TREES must be looked to as soon as the last fruit is
gathered; if any are infested with red spider, dust them liberally with sulphur early
in the morning before the dew is off the leaves, or else syringe them well before the
operation, so that the powder may adhere.

Pinxs.—Plant ont the old stock plants that have been grown in pots into
borders, and keep the beds of young ones perfectly clean and free from weeds.

Poraroes left in the ground after this time will spoil, therefore lift and store
the crop ; and should you intend to follow the practice of autumn planting, throw
out all the middle-sized greenish tubers, and plant them at once, seven inches deep,
and the rows not less than thirty inches apart.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 285

Propacate all kinds of bedding plants that will be wanted for next year as
fast as possible. As soon as cuttings are rooted, pot them off, or place in boxes as
recommended above ; keep them in a close pit or frame for a week or ten days, and
then expose them to the weather for a short time before housing them for the
winter.

Revise all named plants while there are blooms or fruits to determine if they
are tallied correctly. Tokeep plants correctly tallied will do more to familiarize
the mind with their several characters and excellences than any amount of book
study ; in fact, every garden is a book where—not he who runs—but he who
stoops may read, and everything of real interest should have a tally correctly
written. his is especially useful in regard to rock plants, coniferous and fruit trees,
and roses.

Roszs may be propagated now by inserting cuttings in a bed of light soil ina
frame or pit. But a more certain way will be to prepare the cuttings and insert
them in damp sand in a shady place, and keep them frequently sprinkled till they
callus, and then pot them, and plunge them in a gentle bottom-heat.

Sprvace must be thinned till the plants are about six inches apart ; vacancies
to be filled up by transplanting, and if the ground is heavy or trodden during the
operation, loosen it with care so that the roots may have the benefit of the air.

STRAWBERRIES to be forced should now have well-formed plump crowns.

Vines that have ripened their fruit to be kept well aired, cool, and dry.

Viotets for bloom during the winter and early spring should be taken up now
with good-sized balls, and potted in 48 or 32-sized pots in rotten turf, or a mixture
of leaf-mould and road-sand, and then placed in a pit or frame near the giass,

Vines.—Pinch off laterals, as it is too late for the plant to benefit by leaves
formed now, and remove useless growths.

Watt Trexs only need such care as may be necessary to assist in the ripening
of the wood. Where spray-like growth and rank shoots overtop and shade wood
selected for bearing, remove it or cut it into reasonable bounds, for the wood laid
in needs now all the sun it can get, and it is sure not to receive too much.

Weebs will be found to grow rapidly, and will make their appearance in every
place where the seed was allowed to ripen and fall during the summer months.
Now is the time to give them an effectual check, and short work may be made of
them on a bright sunny day with the Dutch hoe, when they may be either raked up
in a neat manner, or left to winter on the ground.

Winter FLowers must be thought of now to ensure a satisfactory display of
bloom. Give a few Begonias a shift, and push them on for flowering ; look to
Euphorbia fulgens and splendens, Poinsettia pulcherrima, Achimenes picta, Lily of
the Valley, and pot up from the borders Dielytra spectabilis in plenty ; it is one of
the best things to force, and, ‘ though common,” it is exqusitely beautiful.

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

y|HE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY have at length made terms
j| with her Majesty’s Commissioners, and at a special general meeting
held on the 13th ult., the agreement between the two bodies was sanc-
tioned by the Fellows of the Society. Two new agreements have been
made between her Majesty’s Commissioners and the Society. By the
first her Majesty’s Commissioners absolutely remit the payment of the £2,400 rent
now nearly due, and authorize the Society to borrow £7,000 to pay its debts and repair
its buildings ; and if, at the end of three years, they shall exercise the power given
to them and determine the agreement, they must take upon themselves this £7,000
of new debt, or so much of it as shall not have been repaid, out of what would
have been their own rent. The Society’s lease cannot, in any case, be forfeited
before the end of the year 1878. It cannot be then forfeited unless the income of
the Society for that year falls short of the amount required, namely, £10,000.
Even if such income should for that year fall short of that amount, there can be no
forfeiture if the Society shall pay its rent in accordance with the present agree-

September, :

286 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GABDEN GUIDE.

ments ; or if the Society shall next year, out of moneys which it could tender as
rent, reduce the new debt by £2,400. By the second new agreement the Council
ave obtained part of the French Annexe, the garden attached thereto, and a new
entrance close to the Royal Albert Hall, in consideration of certain concessions in
respect of the strip of land lying to the north-west of and outside the gardens,
which they believe can be made without injury to the Society’s property.

Royat Botanic Soctety.—The 36th anniversary meeting of this Society was
held on the 10th ult. at the Society’s house in the gardens, Regent’s Park, Lord
Chesham, vice-president, in the chair. The ballot for the Council resulted in the
addition of Lord Londesborough, Lord Rendlesham, and Mr. J. Travers Smith as
new members. The Duke of Teck was re-elected president, and Mr. W. M.
Coulthurst was re-elected treasurer. A total of 124 new Fellows had been elected
during the year—a number in excess of that of last year, and which had only been
exceeded in one year of the last ten. The amount received in subscriptions was
also in excess, being £300 above that reported last year. A considerable portion of’
the garden and an extensive range of greenhouses is devoted to the practical pur-
suit of botany, and its application to the arts and manufactures. Most of the plants,
whether natives of the tropics or the temperate zones, which are useful to man are
here exhibited. The lectures, which are free to all visitors to the gardens and were
delivered by Professor Bentley, were well attended.

Evcatyprus GLoBULUS during the summer flowered very freely in the garden
of R. W. Hall Dare, Esq., Newtownbarry House, co. Wexford. The tree is ina
dry and sheltered position ; it has been planted out about four years, and is twenty
feet high, and very healthy,

Tae ANNUAL MEETING oF THE PeLaRGoniuM SocreTy was recently held at
the “‘ Criterion,” Piccadilly Circus. The treasurer, Dr. Denny, was able to report
a healthy state of the finances, a balance of £20 8s, 4d. remaining after paying the
prizes awarded at the exhibition on the previous day, and all the working expenses.
The sum paid out in prizes was £40. A hope was expressed that the Society, now
tkat it had become better known, might draw around it more abundant support, so
that encouragement might be extended to other classes of pelargoniums, besides the
zonals, which was the class specially in view when the Society was originally
founded. It was also thought that the inducemeats offered by the Society might
set hybridizers to work, and so be the means of obtaining new types of this useful
decorative genus. The chairman, treasurer, hon. secretary, and committee were re-
elected, the latter body being strengthened by the addition of the names of Mr.
Andrew Henderson, Mr. G. T. Rollisson, Mr. B. S. Williams, and Mr. J. F. West.
In the course of the meeting a most interesting discussion took place as to the in-
fluence of the pollen in cross-breeding, and on other matters connected with the
history and improvement of the pelargonium. Mr. Pearson suggested that the
Society should endeavour to find and to fix satisfactory and intelligible names for
the different groups of pelargoniums, instead of the inapplicable ones—show, fancy,
tricolor, zonal, ete.—now in common use.

KerepinG APPLES UNDER LEAyrs.—The “ Rural Home,” an American journal,
gives an account of an experiment near Rochester in keeping apples on the ground
under leaves. Two bushels cf leaves were placed on one bushel of apples, the whole
being partly surrounded by evergreen trees, which kept the wind from blowing the
leaves. They were found this spring less decayed than apples in the cellar, and fresh
and fine in condition. There were obviously two or three causes which made them
keep well. Contact with the earth gave them moderate and uniform heat from
below ; the leaves, being stratified, turned off the water and kept out the cold, the
frost of very few winters ever reaching through a foot of leaves ; and the evergreen
trees gave an additional protection. If we were covering apples in this way in an
exposed situation, we should want a foot of leaves, held down by evergreen branches;
but, surrounded closely by the evergreen trees, half that depth of leaves might answer.
What gardener has not picked up apples perfectly sound and fresh which had dropped
from the eee and lain during the winter hidden beneath leaves or the dense-grow-
ing crops

THE InrERNATIONAL Potato SHow will be held in the Alexandra Palace, —
Muswell Hill, September 29 and 30.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 287

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Vines 1x Pots.—Amateur.—The vines in pots may be left out of doors during
the current month, but it is not desirable that they should remain out until the end
of January next, when you propose to commence forcing them. It is in every way
better for the vines that they should, after the end of this month, be placed in a
cold, airy house, and the soil be kept in a moderately moist state. Many cultiva-
tors suppose that grape vines require no water whatever when at rest, but this is a
serious mistake, and many failures have occurred through keeping the soil dust dry
through the winter. If you are compelled to leave the vines out of doors until mid-
winter, stand the pots upon a hard surface, and then pack newly-gathered leaves
between the pots, for the purpose of protecting the roots from frost.

C=MENT FoR FLlowers.—Lady Subscriber.—The cement used by the bouquet-
makers in Covent Garden Market, and elsewhere, for fixing the petals of flowers
that soon fall off when the bloom or truss is removed from the plant, is easily
prepared. It is made by dissolving gum shellac in methylated spirit; sufficient
gum is added to the latter to make it of the consistency of gum ordinarily employed
for gumming paper. It should in fact be just thick enough to run rather slowly
from a small brush dipped into the solution, and then held over it; therefore if too
thin, a little gum can be added: on the contrary, if so thick that it does not flow
readily from the brush, it should be reduced by the addition of a little more spirit.
When prepared it should be kept in a well-corked bottle, it is a very good plan to
put it in a rather wide mouthed bottle, and to cut a notch on one side of the cork
just large enough for the handle of a small camel’s-hair brush, so that the brush
can be constantly kept in the cement, and the latter air-tight. The common prac-
tice in using the cement, is to dip the brush into it, and then let a drop fall into the
centre of the flower, or if it can be done without damage, the brush charged with
gum is inserted into the centre of the bloom, the gum cements the petals
to the calyx and to each other, and they are therefore quite unable to fall off.
It is consequently of considerable value when pelargoniums are employed. The
cement may be purchased ready prepared, but as a bottle full, which costs eighteen
pence or so, may be prepared for a few pence, it is quite unnecessary for us to speak
of the economy of preparing it at home. Methylated spirit, which is used for
its cheapness, has a rather disgreeable smell, and those who object to it may employ
instead spirits of wine.

PentstreMons— B. B.—Cuttings of these showy flowers may now be struck in a
cold frame. Select the tops of the young shoots, and insert in pans filled with light
sandy soil. When nicely rooted, pot off separately, and winter in a coldframe. In
March next plant in the border.

ZONAL PELARGONIUMS.— Young Gardener.—The zonal pelargoniums in the
borders, where they are not overcrowded, will be most valuable for conservatory
decoration next year, if managed with care. The best course will be to select a cer-
tain number of plants as quickly as possible, and prune them rather hard back, and
as soon as they commence to break again, which will be in about a fortnight after-
wards, lift and put them in pots of as small a size as possible. A rather light sandy
soil should be employed. If it is not convenient to prune the plants as here ad-
vised, lift and pot them in the course of the month, and leave the shoots the full
length. In January or February prune them into shape and shorten the shoots
sufficiently to insure a good supply of young growth from the lower part of the
plant. When zonal pelargoniums are pruned at the same time as they are removed
from the open beds, a portion of the shoots die back and leave ugly blanks.

Unrive Tomarors.—K, §.—The full grown unripe fruit are not worthless, as
they will, if gathered in clusters and suspended in a warm room, attain maturity and
be the utmost value for making sauce, and also for sending to table freshly
cooked.

Greenuousr Query.—H. F.—The house requires painting and whitewashing,
_@ and we should advise you to have it done with as little delay as possible, for it is
not safe for tender-rooted plants to be left out of doors after the third week in the
month, and ten days or a fortnight will be required for the smell of the paint to
pass away. ‘The woodwork and the glass should be well scrubbed with hot water
September,

. .
" «
288 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

and soft soap previous to the woodwork being painted. The walls should be washed
over with “hot lime,” that is whitewash made with unslaked lime, and applied im-
mediately it is made. Afterwards a wash prepared with whiting and size, and
coloured to suit the taste, can be applied to give the work a more finished appear-
ance than that presented by the limewash.

Woodford.—This is a bad season for vines, and for almost everything else.
Instead of sulphur, in future use the Aphis wash of the City Soap Company, and
keep the vines warmer ; yours have been too cold.

W. A,—Sow the cones, when ripe, in a mixture of loam and Jeaf-mould in a
fram they should be quite brown before you gather them.

R, A.—The Frorat Wortp volumes are sold at 7s, 6d. each, handsomely bound.
Any bookseller can obtain them for you.

EXHIBITIONS TO BE HELD IN SEPTEMBER.

1.—Royat Horticurruran Socirry.—Evhibition of Dahlias, and Meeting of
Fruit and Floral Committees.

1 & 2.—Baru.— Second Floral Fete.
: 1 & 2.—Borovenu or Tynemoutn Horticutturat Society.—Aanual Behi-

ition.

2—Royan OxrorpsHtrE Horrticutturat Sociery.—Autumn Exhibition.

2.—CrntTrat Kent anp AsHrorp HorticutruraL Sociery.—Anaual Ex-
hibition.

2 To 4.—Mancuester BoranicaL anp HorricuLTuRAL Soctrry.—Ezhibition
of Fruit, Flowers, and Vegetables.

2 To 4.—ArtExanpRA Paracr, Muswett Hini.—International Fruit Show.

7 to 9.—Crysrat Patace.—Autumn Fruit Show.

8.—GuLascow AnD West or Scotranp Horticutturst Socrery.—Autumn
Exhibition.

8 To 10,—AmeRican PomotocicaL Sociery.—Fifteenth Biennial Session,
at Chicago.

10.—Bury Sr. EpmMunps anp West Sorrozrk Horticutturat Socrety.—
Autumn Show.

15 & 16.—Royat Carepon1an Horticurturat Soctery.— Great International
Fruit and Flower Show at Edinburgh.

15 & 16.—Sramrorp Horricutturat Socrery.— Annual Evhibition,

21 To 23.—Crystat Patace.—Evhibition of Bees and their Produce.

29 & 30.—AtExanpRA Parace, Muswe1t Hiru.—ZInternational Potato Show.

TRADE CATALOGUES.

M. C. ALKEMADE AND Son, ZexstRaar, N OORDWIJE, BINNEN, NEAR HAARLEM,
HotLanp.— Catalogue of Flower Roots, Bulbs, etc.

James CockER AND Sons, ABERDEEN.— General Spring Catalogue of Bedding
and other Soft-wooded Plants,

E. G. HenpErson anv Son, Wettincton Roap, St. Joun’s Woop, Loxpon,
—Illustrated Spring Catalogue of Stove, Conservatory, and Bedding Plants.

Lovis Van Hovrre, Royat Nurserres, Guent, Beicrum. — Illustrated
Catabogue of Stove and Greenhouse Plants, Cactuses, Pelargoniums, New Roses,
eve,

Paut anp Son, Tue Oxp Nurszrims, Cuzsuunt.—Catalogue of New Roses
and Dahlias, Delphiniums, Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, ete.

Rotuisson anp Sons, Toe Nurserizs, Toorrne, Lonpon, 8.W.— General
Catalogue of Stove, Greenhouse, Hardy, and Bedding Plants,

James Veircu AnD Sons, Royat Exotic Nursery, K1ne’s Roap, CHELSEA,
S.W.—Illustrated Catalogue of New and Beautiful Plants.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 289

VARIEGATED LEAVED ORCHIDS.

BY WILLIAM GEDNEY,
Head Gardener to J. C. Day, Esq., Tottenham, N.

(With Coloured Tilustration of Anectochilus xanthophylius.)

fH RCHIDEOUS plants remarkable for the beauty of their

#| leafage are not numerous, as compared with those grown
for the sake of their richly-coloured and extremely
beautiful flowers, yet these are more than sufficient to
form a very interesting and pleasing feature in a well-
appointed orchid house. There are now about thirty species and
varieties of Anzectochili, which is by far the most important genus,
comprising kinds with ornamental leafage, and these for the mosi
part are so exquisitely beautiful that it would be difficult to over-
praise them. It would, indeed, be more difficult to find words to
convey an adequate idea of the exquisite beauty of the golden and
silvery tracery with which the velvety surface of the leaves is over-
laid, and as Mr. Hibberd so truly says in a most valuable paper on
the Anzctochili, contributed to the Intellectual Observer, vol. viii.,
page 461—‘“ No picture, no description, no perfervid expressions of
surprise, delight, or even of admiration, can convey an adequate idea
of the extraordinary beauty of these plants. . . . Usually, the
leaf appears as if formed of the richest purple-green, or olive-
coloured velvet, or glossy satin or silk. Over this groundwork is
spread an elaborate reticulation of gold or silver threads, the vein-
ing of the leaf being marked out as distinctly as if wrought in real
metal, of the most cunning workmanship, and the gold has the
lustre of gold, and the velvet, the softness, the iridescence, and deli-
cacy of velvet ; and the whole thing is so wonderful that, though
we may have been familiar with the plants for years, we have never
yet become thoroughly convinced of their reality.” Mr. Hibberd,
in thus speaking of them, has done no more than the barest act of
justice, and as a goodly collection may, with proper care and atten-
tion, be most successfully cultivated in a comparatively small space,
every amateur cultivator of orchids should have at least half-a-dozen
species in his collection. To say that they are easily grown, as some
writers have asserted, would be misleading, for to achieve success
great care is necessary, but there is no difficulty so great that it
cannot be surmounted by an amateur experienced in the cultivation
of orchidaceous plants. Failures in the cultivation of these plants
are by no means unknown, for although they thrive amazingly under
a proper system of culture, they quickly succumb to bad manage-
ment, and I shall probably be doing the greatest service to the
reader by pointing out the chief causes of failure. These, so far as
my experience has been with them, are an excess of heat and
moisture, and a close stifling atmosphere. I would beg of my
readers to understand that although they are natives of Ceyion,

October, 19

290 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Borneo, and Java, it is possible to expose them to toc great a heat,
and to supply them too liberally with moisture. Some failures have
occurred through keeping them too dry and in too low a tempera-
ture, but few that have come under my notice can be attributed to
this cause, nor are they likely to be numerous, for immediately the
heat or the moisture is insufficient, they cease to make much pro-
gress, and they at once receive attention, and in the majority of in-
stances are placed under conditions more favourable to a vigorous
growth. But it is not so when the heat and moisture are in excess
of their requirements, for the effects at first are misleading. They
make rapid progress, and although the leaves are not so well
developed as regards colour and size, the inexperienced cultivator
indulges in the belief that the progress they are making is most
satisfactory. By-and-by, the plants begin to show signs of decay,
and in a very short time they die one by one, until, in many cases,
the whole collection has perished. Sometimes failures occur through
their being kept in the same pots until the mixture in which they
are growing has become sour, and altogether unfitted to the healthy
development of the roots.

The Anectochili are mostly of dwarf growth, ranging from two
to six inches in height, and may be described as perennial herbs.
They have a thick fleshy stem, from the base of which the roots
direetly proceed, without any intermediate bulb, as in the case of the
majority of orchids, and they are therefore more susceptible to injury
‘rom an excess or an insufficiency of moisture than the oncids or
the dendrobes. The pots must be perfectly clean, and rather small
in proportion to the size of the plants. For a small example, con-
sisting of a single stem, a thumb pot or a small sixty, according as
the species is a spare or a robust growth, will be quite large
enough. For specimens, the pots must be proportionate, and when
of a large size, such as those I produced when in charge of the late
Mr. Ellis’s collection at Hoddesdon, deep pans may be employed
with advantage, as they afford sufficient room for the development
of the plant without presenting such an ungainly appearance as the
ordinary pots of an equal diameter. As showing the size to which
these comparatively humble plants may be grown, I would mention
the fact that some of our specimens completely filled the large pans
known as “No 2’s.” The pots must be filled to rather more
than one-third of their depth with crocks of a medium size. When
the plants have been turned out of the pots, remove from about the
- roots all the old material, or as much of it as can be taken away
without injuring them. They should then be ¢arefully repotted,
aud the base of the plant kept rather high, so that the material at
the centre of the pot is slightly higher than the rim.

A mixture of sphagnum moss, crocks, and sand, is usually
recommended, but I greatly prefer one consisting of partly decayed
leaves, crocks, and sand, as in this the foliage attains a larger size,
and the colouring is much richer. The leaves must be only partly
deeayed, not rotted to a powder, and the crocks, which must be
broken quite small, and the sand must be added in liberal pro-
portions. They should, in fact, be equal in quantity to the leaves.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 291

When the potting is completed, a layer of sphagnum must be placed
over the surface, to give a neat finish to the work, and to bring out
the leaf colouring to the best advantage. The leaves decay more
rapidly then the sphagnum, and the plants will require to be potted
more frequently than those growing in the latter.

It is important to guard against bruising the roots, and also to
carefully spread them out, so as to have them nicely distributed,
with the material packed somewhat firmly between them. After
the repotting is completed, water them liberally, and as soon as
the superfluous moisture has partly dried up, which will be in an
hour or so, place them in the case, or put bell-glasses over them
and keep rather close for a few days. I would add that whenever
there is any difficulty in obtaining leaves partly decayed, for potting
purposes, sphagnum moss should be used instead. Just as they are
commencing to make new growth in the spring is the best time for
the annual repotting.

Cultivators differ somewhat in opinion as to whether itis best to
place the Anzctochili under bell-glasses or in a case, and as a rule they
are grown under the former. For my own part I greatly prefer a
case ; for the plants enjoy the advantage of having a greater body
of air about them, appear to greater advantage, and as the air can
be admitted at the top, the plants are in no way exposed to draughts,
and the moisture contained in the atmosphere of the case can escape
into the house, instead of condensing on the glass, and trickling down
to the roots, to their injury. The case should be twelve or fifteen
inches in depth, and have glass sides and top, with a very light
frame-work ; the length and width must of course be determined
by the space required. The case should be placed ina light position
in the house, and at all times excepting when the stock has been
newly repotted, the top, which must be moveable, shoul!d be tilted on
one or both of the rides, from three to five inches. The plants must
be freely exposed to the light and a little sunshine will do them no
harm. Throughout the winter season no shading material must be
placed over the case or bell-glasses, and in the summer no more than
is sufficient to prevent scorching of the foliage. If the sun is not
very brilliant it may shine on the case for several hours without
doirg any injury, provided the air is admitted as above advised.
The common practice is to cover the case with paper or canvas, as
soon as the first glimpse of sunshine reaches it, and when the sun
shines fully upon the house to roll down the blinds and still leave
the paper covering on; but it is most hurtful to them, to be de-
prived of light in this manner, and it may be safely said that they
do not require shading before the other inmates of the house, and that
the roof blinds are sufficient for their protection.

With reference to watering them, it must be said that they
require liberal supplies at their roots during the growing season, and
none over the leaves. It will not matter if a little water falls upon
the foliage, provided the top of the case is removed for a short time,
but they must not be systematically watered overhead, for it cannot
be done without their receiving more or less injury. In the winter
very moderate supplies will suffice at the roots, and care should be
taken not to wet the leaves.

October.

292 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUILE.

The Anzctochili usually bloom in the autumn, and from that time
until the spring have a thorough rest, provided the temperature is
not so high as to excite them prematurely. The flower-spikes must
be removed, for they weaken the plants, and do not add to their
beauty, and throughout the resting period the temperature should
range from 55 to 60 degrees. When they commence to make new
growth in the spring, the temperature should be raised five degrees,
and in a short period afterwards another five degrees. Bottom-heat
is altogether unnecessary, and the bottom of the case should be
covered with shingle of some kind upon which to stand the pots.

There are some thirty species in cultivation, but they differ
considerably in merit; a few are most difficult of cultivation ; and
a complete collection is not desirable. A selection of them will
suffice for ordinary purposes ; and the ten finest are—

Anectochilus argenteus, a tree-growing species ; the leaves large,
light green, with bright silvery lines.

A. Domini, a handsome hybrid; the leaves are dark olive-green,
with a pale coppery tinge down the centre; the main ribs marked
out by pale lines, and connected by means of pale reticulations.

A. intermedius is one of the most beautiful and easily grown;
the leaves are dark olive, beautifully striped with gold.

A. Lowi is one of the finest of the genus; the leaves are very
large, being four tofive inches long and three broad; ground purplish
bronze, varied and reticulated with bright gold.

A. maculatus, a free-growing species; dark green leaves, beauti-
fully frosted with silver.

A. petola, a pretty species, the velvety leaves banded with gold.

A. Roxburghi is rather difficult to grow; the leaves are of a dark
velvety green, beautifully veined with silver.

A. setaceus is a beautiful species, of free growth; the ground
colour bright chocolate overlaid with a rich reticulation of the most
refulgent gold.

A. Veitchi, a robust species, with rather large leaves of a light
green, with a rich reticulation.

A. zanthophyllus, a superb species of free growth; the ground
colour rich purplish brown, with yellowish band down the centre,
and overlaid with reticulations of the brightest gold.

A NEW FORM OF FRUIT-ROOM.

BY J. JAMES,
Head Gardener, Redlees, Isleworth.

sama 11 crops of apples and pears are, this year, so abundant

A 4 in all parts of the country, that some difficulty will be
experienced by many owners of gardens in providing
room for their storage, and a few words explanatory of

———— an improved fruit-room will probably be read with
some amount of interest.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 293

I shali not, in this communication, enter into the whole question
of storing the crops of fruit intended for consumption during the
winter, for I am afraid it would take up more space than can be
well spared ; but I would observe, in passifig, that few middle-class
gardens have a fruit-room properly constructed, and sufficiently
spacious for the storage of the fruits above mentioned, when, as is
the case this year, the crops are heavy. In some large gardens,
too, the accommodation is lamentably deficient, and I am afraid
that, as a rule, those most directly interested steadily set their faces
against any outlay being incurred in providing proper accommoda-
tion for the fruit after it is gathered from the trees. It ought to
require no very strong arguments to convince any one that, if the
fruit is worth growing, it is also worth storing, and that the expense
of a nicely-fitted fruit-room is quite as legitimate as other expenses
incidental to the management of the trees. A costly structure is
not at all requisite. In fact, it is simply necessary that the interior
should be perfectly dry, not specially liable to be affected Ly the
fluctuations of temperature outside, and that it is fitted up with
shelves upon which to place the fruit. It matters not whether the
room forms part of the dwelling-house, or whether it is independent
of other buildings. I shall, therefore, say nothing about the selec-
tion of a site; and I think it may be said with safety, that some
writers dwell so much upon this point, that they frighten amateurs
into the belief that they have no position in their garden suitable
for the erection of a fruit-room. In very many instances a room
indoors may be turned to good account for storing fruit; and I will
at once proceed to explain how it may be fitted up to hold immense
quantities in proportion to its size, and in a manner altogether new.

The usual plan of fitting up fruit-rooms, now general, with
fixed shelves, is in many respects faulty ; and if I was not able to
describe something very much better, 1 should not have considered
myself justified in saying anything about the matter. When the
shelves are fixed, the fruit must of necessity be handled several
times before it is placed where it is intended to remain until attain-
ing maturity, they do not hold more than one-half the quantity they
should do, according to the space occupied; and, moreover, the
fruit is difficult of examination during the winter. After some little
consideration, I have succeeded in devising a plan of fitting up the
fruit-room which, during the last three or four years, has been found

_eminently satisfactory. Instead of fixed shelves two feet or so
apart, we have moveable ones, that are placed so close, one above
the other, that an immense quantity of fruit, although only placed
in single layers, can be stored in a medium-sized room. Any
ordinary room may be fitted up in the manner I am about to
describe ; and, in contirmation of this assertion, I will mention the
fact, that the room in which the fruit crops at Redlees are stored
was erected for a purpose totally different to that to which it is
now put.

To make the description as clear as possible, I will first of all
say, that the shelves are in reality shallow trays, which can be taken
out of the rests, and removed about anywhere. These trays are

Oetober,

294 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

two and three-quarter inches in depth, thirty-three inches in length,
and twenty-six inches in width; the bottom is made of strips of
wood half an inch in thickness, three inches in width, and placed
so as to leave a space of three-quarters of an inch between each
strip. The four sides are formed with deais three-quarters of an
inch in thickness. The strips are nailed lengthwise, and the edge
of the two nearest the sides are flush with the outer edge of the
sides, so that the trays can be drawn backwards and forwards with-
out difficulty. The uprights are joined together in pairs, and of a
sufficient length to reach from the floor to the ceiling. These are
two inches square, and are joined together by means of strips of
wood, to which the rests for the trays are fixed, and there is, con-
sequently, precisely the same number of cross-pieces as of trays.
The distance from the outer edge of one upright to the outer edge
of the other is precisely the same as the length of the trays, namely,
thirty-three inches, One of each pair of the uprights is placed next
the wall, and the other stands out from it at right angles. The
distance between each pair of uprights is half an inch greater than
the width of the trays, namely, twenty-six and a half inches, so as
to allow them to slide backwards and forwards easily. The rests,
which are made with wood an inch square, extend from the wall to
the outer edge of the front upright, and are placed nine inches
apart, so that a space of six and a quarter inches is allowed from
the top of one shelf to the bottom of the other. The trays, when
in their place, may be likened to a chest of drawers, the uprights. -
forming the sides, and the trays the drawers. The number of trays
that may be placed one above the other depends entirely upon the
height of the ceiling from the floor; for, as the fruit is in single
layers, and a circulation of air maintained between each layer, there
may be fifty tiers if the head-room is sufficient; but in practice
about a dozen tiers will be the most convenient. The room fitted
up here on this principle is twelve feet square and nine feet high ;
and although it has shelves on two sides only, it affords accommo-
dation for no less than fifty bushels of apples and pears placed in
single layers.

The trays possess additional value from the fact that they can
be taken on a hand-barrow to the trees, and the fruit placed in
them, and they can then be returned to the room, and put in their
proper place. After this, the fruit need not be handled until it is
sent to table, for the trays can be drawn out whenever it is con- _
sidered necessary, and any fruit that shows signs of decay cau be
removed without touching the other. They are also especially use-
ful in gathering such soft fruits as are improved by being gathered
and placed in a dry room a day or so before sending to table.

I have given the details as fully as it is possible to give them,
and any handy carpenter ought to be able to fit up a room from the
description given. If any reader should fail in understanding the
principle, I must beg that they will address the Editor for further
information, as my duties will not admit of my answering inquiries
through the post.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 29

or

CHEAP SPRING-FLOWERING PLANTS FOR CON-
SERVATORIES.

BY GEORGE SMITH.

poems) ()[SPLAY of spring flowers is usually much appreciated
ffl by all classes, and I shall probably be doing good ser-
vice by pointing out a few subjects especially adapted
for associating with the hyacinths, tulips, and other bul-
tai bous plants grown for the embellishment of the conser-
vatory during February and the two following months. I shall not
enumerate a large number, for the amateur will be more interested
in a short selection of good things than in a lengthy list comprising
many that are second-rate or that require much skill to insure suc-
cessful results. The selection given will consist chiefly of such
things as may be purchased by the amateur ready prepared for
forcing. The majority, however, may be grown on from year to
year when a stock has once been obtained, and it will depend en-
tirely upon the cultivator as to whether he has to purchase a stock
in subsequent years.

Astilbe japonica, which is known also as Spirza japonica and
Hoteia japonica, is one of the most elegant plants for early flower-
ing, and is immensely popular amongst those who have had an
opportunity of becoming acquainted with its merits. In the neigh-
bourhood of the metropolis it is grown in immense numbers, and it
is steadily making its way into country districts, but not so treely as
one would expect. It is imported in clumps, and if these are potted
in six-inch pots as soon as received in the autumn, and placed in the
forcing-pit early in February, they will be in grand condition
towards the latter end of March, and continue fresh and good
until the end of April, provided they are placed in a shady position
when at their best. They can be started into growth with a bed of
fermenting materials, such as stable manure or leaves, or they may
be put in the cucumber-pit or an early vinery. If the stock con-
sists of some three dozen plants, divide them into two or three por-
tions, and start the first lot about the middle of January, and the
others at intervals of a fortnight. The soil should be in a nice
moist state when the crowns are placed in heat, and after they com-
mence to make new growth supply them liberally with water. It is
an excellent plau to stand the pots, when in the conservatory, in
pans of water, as they then retain their freshness and the fine deep
colour of the foliage much longer.

When past their best, place in a cold frame for a fortnight, and
then plant them in a well-prepared border. During the summer
they will increase amazingly in strength, and make grand specimens
the following season.

Convallarias comprise the Lily of the Valley, and the Solomon's
Seal, both of which are most valuable for winter flowering. The
former can be purchased in clumps similar to those of the Astilbe,
and single crowns may also be had; but for the amateur the former

October.

296 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

are the best. They should be potted in much the same manner as
the last-mentioned, and as they do not make new roots until after
they go out of bloom, any rather light soil will do for them. The
soil must be pressed rather firmly, or the moisture will drain away
quickly, and leave the middle of the clump quite dry. After they
have done flowering they can be planted out, but they must remain
two years to acquire sufficient strength to bloom satisfactorily. They
may be had in bloom in seven or eight weeks from the time of being
placed in the forcing-pit. The Solomon’s Seal is most useful for
table decorations, as medium-sized clumps put into five-incn pots
are very graceful in appearance when in bloom. The slender arch-
ing sprays, furnished with the drooping flowers, are very elegant
inserted in the trumpet-shaped glasses now so much in vogue on the
dinner-table. After they have done flowering, a bed can be formed
with them to afford a supply in subsequent seasons, care being
taken to renew it by lifting and dividing a few of the roots not re-
quired for forcing, or by planting out in the spring those lifted and
potted the previous autumn.

Deutzia gracilis is one of the most easily forced, and one of the
most beautiful of white-flowered plants of small growth. Nice
bushes, about fifteen inches in height, should be procured, and put
in six-inch pots. Place them under cover until the end of January,
and then start them in a genial temperature. Use the syringe
freely to assist the buds to break, and the result will be most satis-
factory. To maintain an annual supply of plants for forcing, there
should be two sets, each set to be forced every alternate year. The
best practice is to plant them out as they come from the conserva-
tory, prune them moderately in the autumn, and thea let them
remain until the following year. The partly ripened shoots strike
freely, and a few cuttings should be put in annually to maintain the
supply of small thrifty plants.

Dielytra spectabilis, when properly managed, is one of the most
effective of pot plants, but it is so generally furced in too high a
temperature, and placed so far from the glass, that the growth is,
as a rule, drawn, the foliage spare, and the general appearance
altogether unsatisfactory. Clumps of various sizes may be obtained,
but those of medium size are the most generally useful. They
require potting in much the same manner as the other herbaceous
plants mentioned, but the temperature of the structure in which
they are placed should average sixty-five degrees, and they must be
near the glass and have sufficient space for the natural development
of the gracefully arching sprays of flowers.

Funkias are not so generally useful as many other of the sub-
jects mentioned ; but several of the variegated forms, if potted up
in rather large masses and placed in a temperature similar to that
advised for the dielytras, are particularly handsome, and the ample
leafage presents a most pleasing appearance in contrast with the
flowers of the other subjects in the conservatory. Even the green-
leaved forms are attractive.

Lachenalias are amongst the most attractive of spring-flowering
plants ; but as they have been frequently alluded to in these pages, I

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 297

shall do no more than mention them. About five bulbs should be
put in six-inch pots, and a compost consisting of turfy loam three
parts, and well-decayed manure one part employed. As they bloom
rather early without the assistance of artificial heat, they should be
placed in a warm pit or in the greenhouse. When growing freely,
they must have liberal supplies of water, and, when the growth is
completed, be dried off. To preserve their vigour they require the
renewal of the soil annually, and early in the autumn they should
be shaken out of the old soil and be repotted in a newly-prepared
compost. The most valuable kinds are L. pendula, L. quadricolor,
and I. tricolor. They may all be grown most successfully by those
who have only a small frame, and be taken to the drawing-room
when in bloom.

Primula japonica and the beautiful varieties of P. cortusoides are
of the utmost value for conservatory decoration when grown in pots.
Specimens well-established in pots are the best for early flowering ;
but strong plants, lifted from the open ground, at once potted and
put in cold frames, will bloom freely, and make a grand display in
the early part of the season. Plants with several crowns each are
preferable, as they produce a much richer effect. The best varieties
of P. cortusoides obtainable at a cheap rate are Ameena, Lilacina,
and Alba.

Spirea palmata is most effective when grown in pots, and can be
most successfully forced if the crowns are rather strong and the
temperature not in excess of sixty-five degrees. It should be
managed in much the same manner as advised for the Astilbe.

Shrubs.—A few of these are extremely beautiful when of medium
size and well-flowered. Bushy plants, lifted towards the end of the
month, aud carefully potted at once, will bloom early in the season
with the assistance of a genial temperature. The best of the shrubs
are Andromeda floribunda, a neat growing evergreen, bearing small
flowers not unlike the Lily of the Valley ; Ghent Azaleas, in variety ;
Persian and Siberian Lilacs, Double-flowered Peach, Prunus triloba,
and P. sinensis, fl. pl., Rhododendrons, in variety, and Double Thorns.
These may all be procured at some of the principal nurseries
specially prepared for forcing. In the forcing of shrubs of all
kinds, the frequent syringing overhead with tepid water is most
beneficial in assisting them to break freely.

Tue CoLtocne INTERNATIONAL EXxuIBITION, although very extensive, has been
a quite second-rate affair. Flowering plants were very poorly represented, and
although ornamental-leaved plants were abundant, the exhibition lacked attractive-
ness, for the plants were scattered throughout a series of structures erected in the
grounds of the Flora Society, and it was impossible to arrange the Various subjects
effectively. ‘The exhibition was opened by the Crown Prince of Germany with
great éclat, and the enjoyment of the hospitalities offered by the Municipality and.
other public bodies appears to have been quite sufficient to occupy the ume of the
various officials and jurors for several days, as no prizes were awarded until the
exhibition had been open about a week. Messrs. James Veitch and Son, who
exhibited a large and interesting collection of plants, were awarded the Empress’
Prize, of a splendid porcelain service, richly painted with views of the Rhine, for
their contributions to the exhibition.

October.

298 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

BEDDING ARRANGEMENTS AT THE CRYSTAL PALACE.
BY GEORGE GORDON.

—q|ESIDENTS in, London and its suburbs are wonderfully
ba| «well off in the matter of public flower gardens, for
within the limits of the metropolis there are four
or five parks, all easily accessible, in which flower
gardening during the summer season is carried out on
a most elaborate scale, and in addition there are the grounds of the
Crystal Palace at Sydenham, which have long been famous for their
splendid bedding displays. These grounds are indeed held in such
high repute, that throughout the months of July and August, and a
portion of September, some hundreds of gardeners, besides hosts of
the owners of gardens, from all parts of the country, make a point
of visiting them for the purpose of inspecting the bedding arrange-
ments, and obtaining new ideas for working out in their own
arrangements the following year.

It is a quite common occurrence, during the months above men-
tioned, to see some half-dozen gardeners walking round, note-book in
hand, making rough sketches of the planting of the most attractive
beds, and jotting down the names of such plants as have a striking
appearance. There can be no doubt that the Crystal Palace possesses
more value as an educational establishment than it has credit for,
and it may be safely assumed that the examples of colour planting
which are year by year provided for the delectation of the visitors,
exercise a most healthy influence throughout the country. Much,
of course, is done that would be altogether out of place in a small
private garden, but no one having the charge of a flower garden can
visit these grounds during the summer without obtaining some few
hints that will prove useful to them afterwards.

The present season has not been very favourable to bedding
plants, for when they were first put out, they were nearly burnt up
by the intense heat which for a short period prevailed, and since they
have been nicely established, dull, showery weather has been the rule,
and the warm sunny days, so essential to the plentiful production of
flowers, the exception. The bedding arrangements at Sydenham
have suffered less from the adverse character of the weather than at
many other places, and, in fact, less than might have been expected,
for throughout the season there has been a display of bloom more or
less brilliant, and the bedders have appeared to a great advantage.
Carpet bedding, which is now extremely popular, has within the
last three or four years been developed to a considerable extent, and
a large number of beds that were formerly devoted to geraniums
and other plants grown for their flowers, are now filled with Alter-
nantheras, Golden Feather, and other plants with coloured foliage.
This season a feature altogether new to these grounds has been in-
troduced, for in a sheltered nook, on the walk leading from the
terrace to the Rose Mount, several beds have been cut, and these
are filled with the choicer kinds of pants, noble in aspect and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 299

having large foliage, which have become generally known under the
designation of “ Subtropical plants.”

The “carpet” beds, that is, the beds filled with plants of low
growth, having coloured leafage, are on the upper terrace, by the
side of the walks which branch off right and left on descending the
steps in front of the transept, and on the Rose Mount. The beds
on the terrace and those on the mount form two distinct features,
and the former afford most valuable lessons for colouring beds,
square or oblong in form, and the others afford lessons equally valu-
able for planting circular beds. As the designs are necessarily com-
plicated, it is impossible to describe the planting with a sufficient
degree of clearness to admit of their being carried out from the
descriptions. This could only be done with the aid of diagrams.
Six of the oblongs on the terrace have been divided into three parts,
mostly with blue Lobelias, and in the centre compartment of each
bed a butterfly has been designed. The butterflies have been chiefly
formed with Alternantheras, and rest on a light ground-work; the
greyish Sedum glaucum, and the silvery-leaved Cerastium tomen-
tosum, being the plants chiefly employed for the latter purpose. In
the end compartments are smaller designs of a distinct character.
The idea of the butterflies is remarkably good, but they fail in
making a very strong impression, because of the beds being rather
too small for the conception to be carried out on a sufficiently ex-
tensive scale. Moreover,an attempt has been made to show the spots
and markings on the wings of the high-coloured butterflies, and
owing to the latter being of a very small size, comparatively
speaking, the effect is uot so good as it otherwise would have been.
Indeed, uninitiated visitors wonder what the little clusters of Lobelias
and the clumps of Golden Feather have to do with the butterflies, so
unlike are they to the spots which add so much to the beauty of these
ephemeral creatures. To imitate with any degree of success a
butterfly, the bed should be not less than eight feet square, for out-
side of the carpet or groundwork upon which the representation
rests, it is needful to have a marginal line and a narrow band of a
different colour, to form, as it were, a framework, and give the bed
a finished appearance. Even in large beds there will be much diff-
culty in imitating the spots on the wings, because of the plants that
are of the proper colours, mostly growing too high for the alter-
nantheras. It would appear less difficult to imitate the lines of
colour on the wings with the different varieties of the last-men-
tioned plants, which although similar in character, vary some-
what in colour. The beds on the mount are remarkably tasteful,
and afford some of the best examples of this style of bedding yet
presented to public notice, and as they are all different in detail, they
display, in a remarkable manner, the versatility of the superintendent,
Mr. G. Thomson.

The sloping border round the rosery is coloured in a very rich
manner, and seen from the terrace as well as from the walk at the foot
of the mount and the one at the summit, itis very effective. It may
be very briefly described. At the back of the border is a band of
Shottisham Pet geranium, é variegated variety, grown extensively

October.

300 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

at the Crystal Palace; from this depend festoons of the same
geranium, about six feet in width. The spaces are filled in with
Waltham Seedling geranium, a fine crimson flowered Nosegay, and
Christine geranium alternately. Outside the first festoons are bands
of Iresine Lindeni, and next to this bands of Golden Feather, form-
ing three distinct series of festoons. In the angles of the festoons
formed by the Golden Feather are diamond-shaped blocks of blue
Lobelias, enclosed with a band of the yellow-leaved plant last men-
tioned. Outside of this is an irregular band of Alternanthera mag-
nifica, and in its widest part are narrow strips of Leucophyton
Browni, a white-leaved plant of a distinct character, effective, but
peculiar in its requirements, and for amateurs will not be found so
useful as some other things. Next to the grass is a single line of
Echeveria secunda glauca, which forms a fitting finish to the border,
— its tone of colour balances the variegated geraniums at the
back.

The promenade beds on the terrace are coloured more effectively
than last year; the colouring is rich without being overpowering,
and uniform without being monotonous. The beds throughout the
length of the walk have a marginal line of Robert Fish geranium, a
golden-leaved variety, neat and effective in colour. Kight and left
of the walk the beds are planted as follows :—The first has a central
block of Gem calceolaria, the best yellow bedding variety in eulti-
vation, enclosed with a band of Purple King verbena; the second bed
a block of scarlet geraniums, enclosed with a band of Countess of
Warwick geranium, and the third pink geranium, enclosed with a
band of Coleus Verschaffelti. This order of planting is repeated in
both series of beds. The scarlet geraniums employed are Murillo,
Prince Arthur, and Duchess of Sutherland ; and the pink varieties
Amaranth, Cleopatra, Pink May Queen, Maid of Kent, and Christine ;
the three first mentioned being the best.

In the chain beds in the sunken panels on the terrace an ex-
ceedingly good effect has been produced by planting variegated
geraniums and Viola Perfection in alternate lines, as the blue
flowers of the latter contrast so well with the white foliage of the
former. The two large beds at the foot of the steps at the south
end of the terrace have bands of the above-mentioned viola, which
throughout the summer has been solid with bloom, and conse-
quently very effective. The soil at the Crystal Palace appears to
suit violas, and the season has also been favourable to them.

Tae Crystan Patace Fruir Snow, Serr. 7 To 9, was fairly successful.
The entries in the majority of the classes were exceedingly numerous, and the pro-
ductions mostly of excellent quality. The chief feature of the exhibition was the
display of hardy fruits, comprising Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, and Nectarines.
Tae Grapes and Pine-apples were in no way remarkable in point of quality, and
the entries were not numerous as compared with those in the other classes. There
were, however, a few good examples of skilful cultivation in the classes for these
fruits. Gladioli were the only flowers fur which prizes were offered, and they were
remarkably fresh and good.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 301

THE HYDRA.
A GARDEN STUDY FOR THE MICROSCOPE.

BY W. B. PRITCHARD.

SHEN Alphonse Karr wrote his charming “ Tour Round
fi my Garden,” he appears to have had no experience with
Ny the microscope. I find no fault with him on that
account, for his work is full enough of wonders real and
= imaginary. But what a world of marvellous life, with-
out beginning and without end, is a garden to one who seeks occa-
sional recreation with the microscope. We see an advertisement in
the papers headed, ‘‘ No Home Complete without a Stereoscope.”
I would say, in capital letters, “No Home ComMPierre wiTHouT «
Mricroscops,”’ and those who love the garden should have most
frequent occasion for resort to this revealer of the secrets of
Nature. It is many years since I read a paper by Mr. Hibberd on
the ‘Microscopic Structure of the Valisneria spiralis,’ and that
made a microscopist of me, and since that day all my spare time has
‘been given to the instrument ; and it seems to me that there can be
no higher pleasure. It is in part a discharge of my indebtedness to
Mr. Hibberd that I now offer him for his readers, if worthy, a few
notes on the Hydra, which everybody has heard of, and very few
have seen, But if you take a little duckweed from the nearest
pond, you will be sure to obtain hydras in plenty, and then you may
begin with a low power to investigate their structure, and never
more, so long as you live, should time find for you a weary hour.
The classic history of the Hydra is full of awfulness. The real
Hydra is full of beauty. I must avoid the poetical view of the case,
being insufficiently posted in Greek myths, but every person of
culture knows erough of the fiction, and only one here and there
knows anything of the fact. Take out of the water a tuft of duck-
weed, and put it in a glass of quite clear water, and allow it to
remain undisturbed in full daylight for a few hours. Then explore
the plants and the side of the vessel with the aid of a good hand-
lens, and you will no doubt see a number of green star-like
creatures—a sort of compromise between a spider and sea anemone
—suspended beneath the weed or attached to the glass itself. As
they stretch out in some instances until they are the sixth of an
inch long, and are as stout as sewing silk, the eye needs no special
training to discover them. If you have studied the history of
zoophytes, and especially the actinia section, you will at a glance
discern the relationships of the pretty creatures before you. In a
paper by Dr. Deakin on the subject, he says:—Upon examination
it will be seen that its body is formed like a little bag, open at one
end ; this is its mouth, and is surrounded with seven very delicate
thread-like arms (tentacula), and that the other extremity is furnished
with a minute disk-like sucker, by which it is enabled to attach
itself to the roots of the plants, etc. Examine it carefully, and I
October,

302 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

think you will say that it looks like a gelatinous thread, in which
are a few greenish granular particles; disturb it, and it shrinks
into a minute jelly-like spot, but expands again when left undis-
turbed, so that it has the power of contraction and extension.
Observe it still further, and you will see that it has the power of
locomotion ; attached by its sucker, it extends its body to its full
length, and with its arms takes firm hold with the other; it then
relaxes its sucker and advances it towards its head, and again fixes
itself; and thus, by a repetition of these movements, it makes pro-
gress. It is slow, certainly, but consider the size of the animal,
and, further, what is its mode of sustenance. It has been observed,
however, that it has another and very remarkable mode of diverting
itself; that is, by rowing about in a very ingenious and wonderful
manner. ‘'o accomplish this, the little creature first moves itself to
the surface of the water
in the manner above de-
= scribed; it there pro-
= trudes its little sucker
above the surface, and
dilates it into a hollow
cone-like cavity, thus
forming a miniature boat,
and by this curious con-
trivance it is enabled to
float its body, and with
the aid of its arms, which
it uses as Oars, it is en-
abled to row itself about
inany directionit pleases;
but, if it beeome alarmed
and is desirous of get-
ting out of danger, it
contracts up its little
boat, and, from its body
being specifically heavier
: than water, it sinks to the

magnified. bottom. Observe, also,
the effect which light has upon it. On the side of the vessel
turned from the light you will not find them; but turn it round,
and they are congregated on that side. Leave it for a few hours,
and then they will have changed their position to the other side
again, showing that they are attracted by the solar rays; but how
they act upon the little animal we know not, as hitherto no organs
of vision, or even a nervous system, has been detected.

Let us now inquire further into its mode of living, and we shall
be astonished at so minute a gelatinous-looking creature being
endued with such powers as it has. It is carnivorous, and most
voracious in its habits, and is gifted with such terrible powers of
destruction, as to capture and devour the lava of insects, etc.,
larger, stronger, and more active than itself. It does not, however,
wander about for its prey, but lays wait for it. Having firmly

Hydra viridis on roots of Lemna minor, slightly

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 303

fixed itself by its sucker, it elongates its body, and spreads out its
arms in different directions, and when any wandering animal im-
pinges upon its arms, it is immediately arrested, and becomes mo-
tionless as if benumbed. And this, be it observed, is the more
remarkable, as it was not struck, but only touched, by the arms of
the Hydra as it was moving along in its own course. What power
the arms of the Hydra possess it is difficult to conjecture; its
effects are like the sudden shock of electricity, for the animal,
under the influence of its potent shock, seems motionless and sinks
to die, or only after the lapse of some time recovers itself. When
the prey is thus become motionless, the Hydra slowly contracts its
arms around it, and gradually brings it to its mouth, and then en-
gulphs it in its capacious stomach.

We may now observe what takes place upon the prey that is
swallowed into the distended stomach, for the body of the Hydra is
so thin and pellucid that, with the aid of magnifying ylasses, we
are enabled to see the process; nor have we to wait long, for soon
the swallowed animal loses its form, and becomes a confused mass ;
all its digestible parts are then soon dissolved, and that which is
hard and indigestible, such as its shell, etc., is at length expelled
from the stomach through the opening by which it was admitted.
It occurred to Trembley (whose observations upon the Hydra are
the earliest and best upon record), that from the transparency of
the body of the Hydra he might ascertain the manner in which the
digested particles became appropriated to the sustenance of the
animal. To accomplish this, he fed the Hydra with the red larva of
some insect, and the result was, that it is through the medium of
the green granules floating in the semi-fluid transparent substance
of the Hydra that the diffusion of the coloured particles was accom-
plished, and that the granules themselves became of the same colour
as the food, but that the gelatinous matter remained colourless.

Trembley also remarked that the digestive power of the Hydra
had no influence on the tissues of its own body; for he observed
that some of the species occasionally swallowed their own arms
together with their food, and these remained during the process of
the digestion of the animal which it had swallowed, without being
injured. On one occasion, the same author says that he observed
the extraordinary occurrence of two Hydra having hold of the same
prey, and that they contended for the possession of it, and that the
conquest was terminated by one swallowing the object of dispute,
and also its rival. But imagine what was the observer’s astonish-
ment when he afterwards saw the swallowed Hydra, together with
the refuse of the digested meal, ejected, and that the Hydra, after
its capture and imprisonment in such a perilous place, was apparently
none the worse!

Wonderful as these facts are regarding the nutriment of the
Hydra, they are not more so than the manner in which the species
are multiplied, or its lost parts restored. Trembley cut a body
transversely into two, and others into several portions, and he found
that each part, in process of time, became furnished with arms at
one extremity, and with a sucker at the other, and acquired all the

October,

.

304: THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

powers and characters of a perfect individual ; so that in this way it
is like a plant propagated by cuttings.

I have, in various ways, put to the test the reproductive powers
of the Hydra. I once managed to cut one into forty-two parts, and
they soon became perfect Hydras. I divided one lengthwise into
two parts, but left the two parts joined at the base, expecting to see

Hydra fusca —a, natural size ; 6, magnified, extended; c, the same contracted ;
d, the same teen vertically to show its mouth,e. (After Corda.)

two perfect animals joined at the foot, but the divided parts united,
and very soon there was one complete Hydra as before. I there-
fore divided another in the same manner, but divided it completely,
and this became two independent animals; but the posterior end
did not acquire completeness. This did not surprise me, for I have
always found the sea-anemones capable of reproducing lost parts;
but any injury to the sucking disk is usually fatal to them. The

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 305
fact brings us back to the classics, and, we may say, that Hydra is
like Achilles in this respect, that he is invulnerable everywhere,
except in the heel. I have suc-
ceeded in removing a single ten-
tacle, which soon became a com-
plete animal, and I have cut off
the heads of two and made them
change heads, which they did
with gladness, or, at all events,
without a token of discontent.
To turn one inside out is an old
trick difficult to perform. When
it is accomplished, the creature
appears none the worse, but feeds
freely and digests its food as
before. I have seen one thrust
inside another and the two united
and become one. I quite ex-
pected the outer one would di-
gest the inner, but they appeared
to understand each other, and
instead of the swallowed animal
becoming a mere victim, it became
a partner in the business.

The usual manner, however,
in which it multiplies its species
appears to be by gemmation, that
is, it has the power of sending
forth, from different parts of its
body, a little bud or gemma,
which at first has the appearance
of ashapeless excrescence, which
in a short time becomes de-
veloped into a body similar to
its parent, having arms, a mouth,
and stomach. Until, however,
it is fully formed and perfected
in all its parts, it remains at-

End of Arm (tentacule), highly magui-
fied.—a, investing membrane; 4,

tached to its parent by a short
pedicel, and enjoys, by this
means, an entire communication
of food, by that of one freely

wart-like knobs ; c, prehensile darts ;
d, organs of touch; e, longitudinal,
and f, transverse, muscular bande.
(After Corda.)

passing into the other. Some-

times this offsprout puts out another bud, even while it is
attached to its parent, so that three generations may be united
together. Trembley even found that by snipping the side of an
adult polyp with the points of a fine pair of scissors, that a bud was
soon developed from the wounded part, and that by making this
experiment repeatedly, both upon the parent and its progeny, he*ob-
tained as many as seventeen all connected with each other.

October, 20

306 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

CLOVE CARNATIONS.
BY AN AMATEUR GROWER.

"SNE of my favourite flowers is the old crimson clove, for
the flowers are so delightfully fragrant, and so useful
for cutting for vases. I think amateurs who require cut
flowers in abundance should grow one or two dozen
plants, and a few plants each of other good clove
carnations, the names of which I shall mention.

Clove carnations, I would first of all say, grow and bloom freely
in any ordinary good garden soil, provided it is free from wire-
worm, which do such an immense amount of mischief to carnations
of all kinds. A deep holding loam is the most suitable; on heavy
undrained soils there is a risk of their perishing in the course of the
winter, and on dry sandy soils they become half-starved and partly
burnt up during the summer; but by the addition of grit in the one
case and of aliberal dressing of fat manure in the other, soils of both
classes may be suitably prepared for them. If grown in pots, a compost
prepared by incorporating together turfy loam four parts, thoroughly
decayed manure one part, and sand half a part, will be found in
every way suitable. The present moment is most favourable for
purchasing, and the plants may be put out at once, or they may be
kept in pots through the winter, and be planted in March next.

I have now a rather large number of clove-carnations, and the
best of these are Ambassador, crimson-purple, a superb flower of
large size; Christine, rose-pink, a beautiful flower ; Geant des Bat-
tailes, scarlet, a grand flower, very bright in colour and of large
size; Ghost, pure white, fine; King of Yellows, bright yellow, a large
flower of splendid quality, very distinct and good; Mazden’s Blush,
blush pink, very beautiful; Prince Arthur, large and very fine; and
the True Old Crimson, the colour of which is well known. These
are all distinct, and of such exceptionally good quality, that not one
of them can be spared.

THE CHRISTMAS ROSE.

BY THOMAS TRUSSLER,

Nurseryman, Edmonton, N.

Especially should it be grown in the garden of the
amateur, wh2re no convenience exists for the production of the
flowers of Eucharis amazonica, and other first-class subjects. It is

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 307

not one of those grand subjects that render a large expenditure
necessary before its flowers can be enjoyed, for a stock can be
obtained for a trifling outlay, and, planted in any good garden soil,
they will grow freely, and when well established, produce a goodly
number of flowers.

The Christmas Rose is of course well known, but the usual
practice of growing it in solitary clumps along the front of a mixed
border, is not the best that could be adopted when a supply of cut
flowers is required. It blooms naturally at midwinter, when the
weather is mild and open; but their production is checked by severe
frosts, and the rains and snows destroy their purity. The course
T should suggest is that a rather large bed be formed in a sheltered
position in the kitchen garden, and then they can be protected with
a frame or one of the portable structures now before the public.
The plant preservers manufactured by Messrs. Boulton and Paul,
of Norwich, are the best for the purpose. The frame should be put
over the bed towards the end of October, and the lights opened
sufficiently to admit of a free circulation of air. In frosty weather
they must be closed, and a covering applied to keep out the frost.
Strong plants may also be lifted and planted in large pots, and then
placed in a cold frame for the winter. They must be lifted at once,
with as little disturbance to the roots as possible.

The month of October is in every way favourable to forming
beds of the Christmas Rose, and all the preparation the gronnd
need undergo is to apply a good dressing of manure, and then dig
it up deeply. They should be planted about eighteen inches apart
each way, unless the frame within which they are to be covered is
narrow, and then it will be better to have the rows not less than
a yard apart.

In sheltered situations away from towns, in the southern and
western counties, protection will not be so essential as in the
northern parts of the country. Protection is of the utmost value
in the neighbourhood of towns, because of the liability of the
flowers to be disfigured by the impurities with which the atmo-
sphere is frequently charged at the time the flowers are produced.

CHOICE GRAPES FOR AMATEURS.

BY WILLIAM COLE,
The Grove Vineyard, Feltham.

yi

52:

N this communication I propose to offer a few remarks
on grapes especially adapted to the requirements of ama-
teurs, and to briefly explain why some of the most
popular grapes at present in cultivation should not be

“7 ew planted by this class of cultivators. So many of the
finest flavoured grapes require great skill anda special knowledge
of their peculiarities to bring them to perfection, that it is of the
utmost importance that amateurs should exercise great care in

October.

208 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

selecting varieties for planting, for the purpose of guarding against
failures and the consequent disappointment. ‘This caution is all the
more necessary because it is a quite common occurrence to meet
with communications in the horticultural journals, in which grapes
most difficult of cultivation are spoken of in the highest terms of
praise, because of their fine flavour or handsome appearance, with-
out a word of qualification, or a single reference being made as to.
their requiring a special code of management to ensure successful
results.

One of the most ‘popular of grapes amongst skilled collectors,
and the white grape most generally seen at the public exhibitions,
is the Muscat of Alexandria, yet if the amateur plants it in an
ordinary vinery in company ‘with the Black Hamburgh and other
sorts thriving in the same temperature, a failure must ensue, for
the temperature will not be high enough. Besides, when sufficient
warmth is provided, the vines require to be so skilfully managed in
setting their berries, and also when the latter commence to ripen,
that the crop is not often satisfactory. The Muscat Haimburgh
is of the most delicious flavour, but it requires a very high tempera-
ture, and with the greatest care seldom colours well, and the ap-
pearance on the table i is anything but satisfactory, for until eaten
they cannot be distinguished from a bad sample of Black Ham-
burgh. The Royal Ascot, so highly recommended a few years since,
for its prolific character, is practically worthless, for it does not bear
heavier crops than the Black Hamburgh, the bunches are small and
the flavour indifferent, the berries are also liable to crack. Mrs.
Pince’s Black Muscat and Madresfield Court Muscat are two fine
grapes when well grown, but not more than one grower in twenty
can produce good samples of the former; and the latter, although
less difficult of cultivation, is not often seen in really first class.
condition. The Golden Champion is shy in bearing, aud the berries
are oe very much discoloured, and the flavour is quite second-
rate he Royal Muscailine and Sweetwater are only suitable for
out-door culture, for they are not good enough to have a place in a
vinery. The latter is, however, useful for furnishing avery early
supply of white grapes in pots. Barborossa is coarse and inferior
in flavour. Ferdinand de Lesseps and the Duchess of Buccleugh
are small berried grapes, only worth growing for their peculiar
piquant flavour, and not deserving a place in the general vinery.
The Muscat Champion is very ugly, and difficult to grow, and al-
though the flavour is good, it is not worth cultivating, excepting it
be by those who have™ a collection: The Black and White Frontig-
nans are of good flavour, but they are small in bunch and berry, and
speaking generally are not worth growing.

The best known of the grapes not worth growing, have been in-
dicated, and their peculiarities pointed out, and I will now proceed
to give ‘the names of those best adapted to the requirements ot ama-
teurs. The Black Hamburgh is undoubtedly the finest of all the
black grapes from early iu the summer until November. It is
handsome in appearance, of excellent flavour, and under ordinary good
management, sure to produce good crops. Lady Downes is the best

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 309

black grape for the table, from November until the April following,
as a crop well ripened by the end of September will with care re-
main in excellent condition until the end of March. These two
varieties ought to be grown in separate houses, as the former should
be pushed on to attain maturity by the end of July. The best
white grape for amateurs is Buckland Sweetwater, which should be
grown with the Hamburghs, and be sent to table at the same time
as the latter. The Muscat of Alewandria is the only really first class
late white grape, and, for the reasoas already given, it should not be
planted by the class of cultivators for whose guidance these notes
have been penned.

GRAND LILIES FOR THE CONSERVATORY.

BY J. W. TEUTSCHEL.

=70OR some years past I have been most successful in the
cultivation of lilies in pots, and for the information of
amateurs who are desirous of growing these beautiful
flowers to perfection, I purpose offering a few remarks
on those kinds best adapted for the embellishment of
the conservatory. In doing so, I shall not follow the example of
most writers on lilies, and enter into minute details, because I believe
that these lengthy dissertations do more harm than good, and deter
many amateurs from taking them in hand. [I shall be as brief as
possible, for the cultivation of lilies in pots is so simple that a brief
outline of their requirements is all that is necessary to enable the
amateur to produce specimens of first-class quality.

A most essential point is to limit the selection to not more than
half-a-dozen kinds, and these to be the best kinds for the purpose.
In my time, I have grown nearly all the kinds in commerce, and
although they all possess some degree of interest, no more than the
number here mentioned should be obtained until the cultivator has
made considerable progress with them. The six I shall recommend
are :—Lilium longiflorum, beautiful pure white; L. awratum, L.
speciosum album, L. speciosum rubrum, L. tigrinum Fortunei, and
L. tigrinwm japonicum. These are all of vigorous growth, and form
specimens of a most magnificent character, which, in their season,
produce a striking effect. As the several kinds here mentioned
differ in their season of flowering, a grand display of bloom is pro-
duced for a considerable period.

I would suggest that all these should be grown in the form of large
‘specimens, as they are in no way more difficult to cultivate than small
plants, and, when in bloom, they are far more effective. The current
month is most favourable for making a beginning, as the bulbs may
soon be obtained from the nurseries in excellent condition. When
they come to hand, prepare in the usual way a given number of
nine-inch pots, and in each of these put from three to six bulbs, or,
to be more explicit, three bulbs of Auratum, four of the varieties of

October.

310 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Tigrinum, five of the varieties of Speciosum, and six of Longiflorum
should be putin each pot. They should be distributed regularly
over the pots, and be covered to a depth of about three inches with
the prepared compost. The latter should consist simply of two
parts mellow turfy loam, one part of well-rotted manure, and a
liberal proportion of grit, such as drift or river-sand. When the
potting is completed, place them in a cold frame, and protect from
frost. When put under the stage of the greenhouse, they are
frequently started into an early growth, and occasionally allowed to
remain until the new growth has become very much drawn. The
soil must be moderately moist ; throughout the winter and when
the new growth makes its appearance above the surface, the water
supply must be increased, and the frame freely ventilated, and only
closed in case of severe frost, to which it is not desirable to expose
them. In April they can be placed on a hard surface out of doors,
and there allowed to remain until they come into bloom and are re-
quired in the conservatory.

Lilies require an annual shift only, and the bulbs must not be
disturbed. No time can be fixed for repotting, for as every dog has
its day, so also every lily has its season. The bulbs commence to
make new roots soon after the stems die down, and as the repotting
should be done before the production of the new roots, they should
be transferred to larger pots immediately the decay of the stem of
the respective kind is complete. There must be no waiting for a
general repotting of all the kinds. On the contrary, each sort must
be shifted when it has arrived at the proper stage. As arule, the
bulbs are disturbed too much at the annual repotting, the common
practice being to shake the bulbs entirely out of the soil, and in con-
sequence the white variety of Lilium speciosum and other delicate
kinds suffer considerably, and do not often bloom satisfactorily. The
proper course is to turn them out of the pots, remove a moderate
proportion of the old soil, but without in any way disturbing the
bulbs, for they should be preserved intact, and then put them in
other pots of the same size or one size larger, using of course fresh
compost prepared as already advised. They should then be put ina
cold frame, and otherwise managed as described in speaking of their
management during the first winter.

By the system of culture described above, and the use of rather
weak liquid manure alternately with soft water after the pots are
well filled with roots, and the plants are growing freely, I have
succeeded in producing specimens of immense size, some of our ex-
amples of auratum had as many as ten stems ranging from six to
eight feet in height, and bearing a dozen flowers each. Our largest
specimens of speciosum rubrum have as many as eighteen stems,
and are between four and five feet high, whilst of tigrinum we have
specimens so large that they quite surprise even those who are well
acquainted with lilies.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 311

NOTES ON DINNER-TABLE DECORATIONS.
BY J. E. SAUNDERS, ESQ. '

N the occasion of the recent exhibition of fruit at the Alex-
andra Palace, liberal prizes were offered for bouquets,
stands for the dinner-table and for the drawing-room,
and also for tables fully equipped for dining twelve
persons. The bouquets and the drawing-room vases were

not good, the dinner-tables were not particularly remarkable; but

the stands for the latter were characterized by great taste, and a

brief description of them will probably interest, and be of service

to the readers of the Froran Wox.p.

The dinner-tables differed materially, both in the style of dress-
ing and in point of merit; and there was also some difference of
opinion as to the proper position of the second and third prize tables
on the list of awards. There was no question as to the table exhi-
bited by Mr. Soder, of Brentwood, who was awarded the first prize.
This table had three stands of the usual Marchian type down the
middle: a series of small glasses, one in front of each guest, con-
taining a spray of flowers and the frond of a fern ; and six or eight
glass baskets containing fruit. This table was undoubtedly the
best, but it was a long way from being perfect. The little upright
glasses for holding sprays cf flowers look pretty upon the table in an
exhibition, but they ought to be banished, for they are more or less
in the way ; there is arisk of their being knocked over by the servants,
and to a certain extent they interfere with the comfort of the guests.
Judges who have opportunities for dining at tables elaborately
dressed, steadily set their faces against a superabundance of flowers,
for they well know some of the discomforts of having two-thirds of
the table devoted to them, and, as a rule, award the.prizes to those
tables having no more than three stands. Unfortunately, the
adjudication of awards for decorated dinner-tables is very often
entrusted to those who have not once dined at a decorated dinner-
table, and all that they take into account is the abundance of the
flowers, and the taste with which they are placed in the receptacles
provided for them. I have on more than oue occasion seen tables
covered with flowers to within a few inches of the edge of the table,
and have heard also loud complaints from the exhibitors because of
their receiving no prize. In the dressing of the three stands on Mr.
Soder’s table, the principal flowers employed were Vallota purpurea,
white Water Lilies, and Agapanthus umbellatus, relieved by fronds
of Adiantum cuneatum. In the top of the centre stand, sprays of
Celosia pyramidalis and the inflorescence of grasses were tastefully
intermixed ; and the tops of the side stands were dressed with Corn-
flower and grasses. The fruit upon the table was hardly satisfac-
tory ; there was not enough of it, for it cannot be said that a couple
of small bunches of grapes, three or four peaches, and as many figs,
plums, and nectarines, was sufficient for twelve persons. The pyra-
midal mounds of fruit such as were on the third prize table, and

October,

312 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

which are frequently seen on tables in private houses, are not by
any means desirable, but the fruit should certainly be sufficient for
the guests, or be kept off the table altogether. On the third prize
table the fruit was piled up on huge stands, and so placed that the
guests on opposite sides of the table could not see each other, and
the host and hostess could not have seen more than the two guests
sitting right and left of them. One of the first principles in the
decoration of a dinner-table is the preservation of a clear view across
it, yet, as a rule, very little importance is paid to it, to the dis-
comfiture of the guests. I know of nothing more vexing than to
be placed opposite to a friend, and to have a large epergne or a big
plant between us, so that it is a work of extreme difficulty to speak
to him in the course of the dinner.

The best example of dinner-table decorations was that afforded
by the three stands of Mr. J. Hudson, of Champion Hill, and these
were so tasteful, comparatively inexpensive, and, moreover, per-
mitted a clear view across the table, that too much cannot be said in
praise of them. The middle stand consisted of a circular plateau of
flowers, with a palm about two feet in height in the centre. The
two ends consisted of circular plateaux of flowers, with a slender
trumpet dthes eighteen inches or so high. The bases of the stands
were not visible, and it would be difficult to say whether they were
of glass, metal, or earthenware. It does not, in fact, matter what
they are made of, provided they are of the proper size and the edges
nearly touch the tablecloth. This mode of employing palms on the
dinner-table can be highly commended. The plant, which should
be of the height mentioned, have gracefully pinnate leaves and a
slender stem, is turned out of the pot, a few of the crocks removed,
and then set in the centre of the dish. The ball of soil is then
banked up with wet sand, which slopes off to the edge of the dish.
The sand is then covered thinly with Lycopodium or the fronds of
Adiantum cuneatum laid over it to prevent its being seen through
the flowers. The fiowers are then fixed in their places by inserting _
the stalks in the wet sand. On this occasion Mr. Hudson had a
fringe of fern fronds, and immediately above these a row of flowers
of the white Eucharis Amazonica and the scarlet Vallota purpurea,
placed alternately. Above the ring thus formed the same flowers
were arranged in a somewhat irregular manner, although equally
disposed over the surface, and between them were placed lightly
single flowers of the blue Agapanthus umbellatus and fronds of
Adiantum cuneatum. ‘I'he bases of the two side stands were dressed
in much the same manner, with the exception that they contained,
in addition, a few brilliantly-coloured spathes of Anthurium scher-
zerianum and the inflorescence of a small elegant grass. In the
trumpets, which were only about two inches in diameter at the top,
were a few sprays of grass and two or three blooms of one of the
new tuberous-rooted Begonias, and a bloom each of Lapageria rosea
and Lapageria alba; and a most elegant effect was the result.

These straight and slender trumpet glasses are far superior to the
fanciful glasses so much in vogue, and they are comparatively inex-
pensive. Indeed, as the base of all three stands may be of tin, and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 313

the cost of the two trumpets trifling, this style of decoration is
within the reach of all who desire to have flowers upon their dinner-
tables, and the effect far surpasses that produced by glass or silver
stands of elaborate design. There are numerous ornamental-leaved
plants that may be employed instead of palms. It is simply neces-
sary that they should have a slender stem about eighteen inches in
height, and surmounted with a tuft of elegant leafage. The effect
is better when the stems of the plant and the trumpets have some
trailing plant of small growth twined about them.

* an
MR. CHARLES TURNER’S ROYAL NURSERIES, SLOUGH.

=saq}HE Slough Nurseries have become famous throughout the world, princi-
24] pally in consequence of the extraordinary spirit and success of Mr.

urner ,as an exhibitor of horticultural productions. They comprise
several large tracts of ground at Slough and Salt Hill, and at both
places there are considerable extents of glass-houses. Tle home
nurseries are about half-a-mile from the Slough Station on the Great Western
Railway, and are undoubtedly the most interesting. At whatever time of year the
visitor enters, the place is found to be delightfully gay. The flower-garden and
show-houses are so managed, that neither frost nor rain, snow or hail, makes any
great difference; but, of course, as flowers love sunshine, it is on a fine day any
time between March and October that we see the place to best advantage.
There are three displays in the flower-garden that adjoins the road from London to
Bath. Here, in the earliest days of spring, we find the beds and borders richly
filied with pansies, violas, forget-me-nots, daisies, wallflowers, silenes, primulas,
and >ther early flowering plants, the groups enriched with edgings of silvery
cerastium, golden thyme, the lemon-coloured stellaria, the aucuba-leaved daisy, the
golden stonecrop, and other hardy plants that are distinguished by the bright appearance
of their leaves, and are, for the most:part, as gay in winter as in summer. The artistic
arrangements of the coloursis heightened by the careful sprinkling on the soil amongst
the plants of clean cocoanut-fibre refuse, which is of a pleasing nut-brown colour,
and useful to protect the roots of the plants from frost and drying wind, as well as
to show off, by suitable contrast, their several colours. When the spring display
begins to wane, the plants are removed, and the beds are planted with geraniums,
verbenas, and other summer bedders, and there is usually one strong feature in the
shape of a border of seedling petunias, with a series of crescents and lozenges in
front filled with dwarf flowering plants. These seedling petunias are of all colours,
but shades of purple and rose predominate, and they make a splendid display.
When these summer bedders are declining an autumn show is made, and this is
ingeniously merged into the spring show, the same edgings being made to do duty
in both. As a matter of course, the spring bedders are all planted in the autumn,
and thus some of them necessarily appear in the autumnal display.

In a very neat show-house in the flower-garden is a grand Marechal Niel rose,
that flowers superbly, and in the same house is the rare Clematis indivisa, which
produces myriads of smallish flowers, which are at first green and afterwards become
white. This is a plant we recommend our readers to look afier; it is a first-class
greenhouse climber, requiting only a cool house, and quite hardy in the extreme
south and west of England. Proceeding onward we find extensive ranges of houses
devoted to the many useful subjects which Mr. Turner has always shown a special

king for as anexhibitor. The collections of azaleas and pelargoniums are extremely
interesting, but yet more fascinating, perhaps, are the houses devoted to pot roses,
which are here grown to gigantic proportions, and bring their worthy owner money
and honour at the great horticultural shows. Tree carnations are grown in vast
quantities, and when they are turned out of the houses pot vines take thollplace,
and a splendid growth of canes is invariably secured. The visitor will be impressed
with the remarkable cleanliness and order that reigns in this establishment, and
which is especially noticeable in the houses, where apple-pie order prevails, and a

October.

ol4 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN QUIDE.

ballet-girl dressed for her performance might walk through without ruffling or soiling
her muslin. A duchess, indeed, might do the same, but might not be so fantasti-
cally dressed as to put to a fair test the admirable keeping of this nursery.

There is one feature amongst the houses that every one of our readers may, with
advantage, take interest in. It is a long, rather narrow, span-roof house, without
stage or heating apparatus. It is filled with pot plants of draczenas, aucubas
smothered with scarlet berries, variegated ivies, round-headed bay-trees, and others
of the hardiest and handsomest of conservatory plants, constituting a charming
winter garden the keeping of which in perfect trim entails an extremely small
amount of labour, as there is no furnace to look after, and even air giving may in
winter be neglected for days together.

These nurseries are the homes of the most important of the florists’ flowers.
Here are extensive collections of show tulips, auriculas, carnations, picotees, pinks,
pansies, dahlias, roses, and the more tender florists’ flowers that are necessarily
grown under glass. It is a rare treat to see the collections when in flower, and
perhaps the auriculas and roses attract the greatest number of visitors. The out-
door roses are mostly budded in the usual way on the brier, and the soil and
situation suit them so well that they soon make splendid specimens. The number
annually budded is 80,000; this number representing, of course, the average
annual sale.

During the past summer a very interesting feature at the home nursery has been
atrial plantation of peas, comprising all the best sorts known, This trial was
institcted for the purpose of comparing with the most noted of the established kinds
Mr. Turner’s new pea, called Dr. Maclean. This grows four to five feet high, and
produces in the most extravagant profusion large, handsome pods, that contain an
average of seyen to nine peas each, these being equally remarkable for size and
colour as they are for tenderness and flavour when cooked, ‘he trial has confirmed
the belief of Mr. Turner and the many practical men who have known this pea for
some years past, that it is the very best pea in existence, and as well adapted for
the market-grower as for the private garden. ‘

At Salt Hill there are extensive collections of variegated-leaved plants, more
especially of tri-coloured geraniums, which here acquire richer colours than they do
at Slough, although the two places are only about a mile apart. Here are grown
great breadths of the lovely gold and silver-leaved Euonymus of the Jatifolius
section, which may be truly described as the grandest of bedding plants for winter
display, while they are invaluable for the front of the shrubbery border, There is
here, also, a large collection of zal geraniums, both single and double, and
collections also of cinerarias, phloxes, pentstemons, verbenas, and other useful
garden flowers.

Mr. Turner’s fame as an exhibitor indicates, of course, unusual skill and pluck,
and other high personal qualities, for there mnst be something in the man, as well
as in the plants, to ensure such constant and such brilliant success. -Now, any one
with a fair perception of men and things might easily divine the secret of the long-
sustained triumphal progress of this veteran cultivator in the exhibition tent. He
takes in hand no more than he can see his way to do well, and then lays on all the
strength possible to ensure success. He is always about, andsees everything ; has
a genial word for everybody, and, if anything goes wrong, is ready, and prompt,
and sound with his advice. Talent is nothing unless conjoined with perseverance
and cheerfulness. It is no small testimony to Mr. Turner’s high personal qualities
that the heads of departments have been with bim for years, and a change in the
establishment is quite a rare occurrence. Very few even amongst amateur horti-
culturists can form any idea of the task it is to take and keep the lead in exhibiting
at greatshows. The work never ceases night or day, and even at that the great
pot roses Mr. Turner usually presents at Regent’s Park, South Kensington, and the
Botanical Gardens, Manchester, seem too perfect to be real, and yet no fabric of
man’s make could equal, in any one particular—to say nothing of equalling them
in all—these marvellous products of nature. When lately conversing with Mr.
Turner on the splendid appearance of a house of specimen roses, he said, ‘‘ My rose
man is like other men here, unremitting in his attentions. All my head men are
as proud of their work as I am, and as anxious that we should always have first
place. I made note on Sunday that the rose man came in and looked round before
breakfast, and after breakfast, and on the way to church, and after he came from

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 315

church, and again in the afternoon, and after that I did not see him; but I know
he came in to shut up. This constant watching for sun, wind, rain, or whatever
may happen, is absolutely necessary in this high culture, for on these grand speci-
mens we cannot affurd to have a single leaf damaged, or one flower insufficiently
developed.”

HARVEST HYMN.
BY THE REV. HENRY MOULE, M.A.

‘*For as the rain cameth down, and the snow from heaven, and returneth not thither,
but watereth the earth, and maketh it bring forth and bud, that it may give seed to the sower,
mo to the eater: So shall my word be that goeth forth out of my moutii,”—lsatan
vy. 10, 11.

Nae S heaven in boundless height
22 Above this earth extends,
Thy way, O God of light,
Our utmost thought transcends.

The snow and gentle rain
Descend by Thy decree ;
Nor back return again,
A fruitless errantry.

Through them the earth outpours
From forth her fruitful fields
The life sustaining stores,
The unceasing harvest yields.

So ne’er returning vain
Thy Word, O Lord, to Thee
Shall still its course main‘ain,
Fulfilling Thy decree.

The clouds may gather round,
The promise tarry long,

Yet sure at length shall sound
Through earth the angelic song.

All, bowed beneath Thy feet,
Shall Thy salvation see,

And Jew and Gentile meet
In blissful harmony.

Tue RoyaL Horticutturat Society’s SEPTEMBER SHOW was not extensive,
and in no way remarkable excepting for the g!adioli, which were shown in splendid
condition by Messrs. Robertson and Galloway, of Glasgow, Messrs. Kelway and
Son, of Langport, and Rev. H. H. Dombrain. The first prize for tweaty-four
spikes was awarded to Messrs. Robertson and Galloway, with a grand stand con-
taining spikes of Undine, Legouve, Psyche, Horace Vernet, Madame Desportes,
Hesperia, Ambroise Verschaffelt, Sylvia, Amalthea, John Waterer, Adolphe Brong-
niart, Donna Maria, Pactole, Orpheus, Le TLare, Hercules, Robert Fortune, Impera-
trice, Sosius, La Candeur, Anna, Souchat’s Leda, Hermione, and Virginalis, all of
which are first-rate for exhibition. Messrs. Kelway and Son were second, with the
undermentioned varieties :—Shakespeare, Parasius, Orphée, _Meyerbeer, Xeres,
Agrius, Serapis, Pioneer, Felix, Zenobia, Osci, Pyalus, Lady Bridport, George Gal-
loway, Formosa, Ababa, Hesperia, Lynceus, Hermione, Mrs. Reynolds Hole,
Stesileus, Amycla, Tubero, and Talmedes.

October.

316 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR OCTOBER.

Then came October full of merrie glee;
For yet bis noule was totty ot the must,
Which he was treadivg ia the wine-fats see,
And of the ioyous oyle, whose gentle gust
Made him so frollick and so fuil of lust :
Upon a dreadful scurpion he did ride,
Tbe same which by Dianaes doom unjast,
slew great Orion; and eeke by his side,
He had his ploughing-share and coulter ready tyde.
SPENSER.

gai MERICAN PLANTS may be moved now better than at any other period

4] of the year. Whoever plants these must be sure in the first instance
that the soil is suitable. Many of tlie natural loams about London suit
them admirably ; and, on the other hand, there are many otherwise
good loams in which they will not grow at ull. Itis only to be deter-
mined by experience on the spot ; and where there is any doubt, the only safe couzse
is to cart in peat from the nearest source of supply inthe district, Pontic Rhododen-
drons and their varieties are the least particular about soil of any of the race.

Asparagus, when brown and half-withered, to be cut down to the surface of
the ground, be well cleaned, and covered with four inches of half rotten dung.
The spade must never be used on the beds.

CARNATIONS AND Picoverxs not yet rooted from layers must be taken off the
stools and planted under hand-glasses; those with a few root fibres may be potted;
having begun to root, they will soon gain strength.

CavuLirLowERs to be planted out under frames and hand-lights, and some potted
as previously directed.

CurysaNnTHEMUMS to have less liquid manure as they show colour, and to be
discontinued (using plain water only) as soon as a few of the first flowers are open.
‘Thio the flowers on plants from which blooms are to be cut.

Cucumsers to fruit during winter will now be showing signs of fertility, in which
they must not bz too much encouraged, unless the piants are strong. If allowed
to bear too early, they will svon cease to bear, and the frait will be small and
inferior. Keep them carefully trained; take the leaders up their full length before
stopping, then stop every side shoot at the second joint.

Dectpvous Trezs may be planted now ad /ib. Fruit trees, roses, forest trees,
ornamental shrubs, and all such things, may be ordered in from the nurseries, and
planted at once ; and from this date every day gained is a real gain for the future
well-doing of the trees, which will begin to make roots directly, for the ground is
now warm, but from this time will become cooler every day, and the longer planting
is delayed the longer will the trees require to make more new roots, on which
their vigour next season will depend. Never plant while the ground is in a satu-
rated state; if it does not crumble freely, wait a bit; meanwhile lay the trees in
‘by the heels, to prevent injury to their routs by sunshine and drying winds.

Enicas can be better wintered in a pit than in the greenhouse. It is certainly
best to let them taste as little as possible of fire-heat, though they must be kept
safe from frost. A damp, still air, especially if a little warmed to suit the growth
of soft-wooded plants, is most injuriuus to these nearly hardy and free-natured
plants. Water only on fine days and then as early as possible.

EVERGREEN SuHRvsBs will move now better than in spring ; the earth is warm
and the air moist, and they will make fresh roots at once. This is the best time of
the whole year to plant American beds, and to make alteration in shrubberies and
wildernesses, Hollies will move now with safety, as also will aucubas, laurels,
thujas, and all kinds of conifers.

Forcine to be prepared for according to the demand for asparagus, seakale,
rhubarb, etc. Take up all the roots that are to be used in the first batch, and lay
them in by the heels; the roots force better if taken up some little while before-
hand, especially for the earliest supplies. ie

MicGNoNErTE sown now in pots of rich light soil, started with a little bottom-
heat, as on a bed of leaves or nearly worn-out dung, and kept ina pit all the winter,
will bloom early next spring, and a few may be forced. It requires but little skill,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 317

indeed, to flower Mignonette at any period of the year; but at this season one
important caution must be given, and that is, to grow the winter stock in pots extra
well drained, and never to wet the leaves of the plants.

MvusHroom Beps to be spawned. It will be loss of time to hurry the operation
by inserting the spawn while heat is too high. The safe temperature is 50°; if the
bed is a few degrees above that, wait a few days without disturbing it, for any dis-
turbance will give a fresh start to the fermentation, and run it up again to a high
pitch ; and, besides,'the more solid the bed the better, so long as it is not quite as
hard as a brick.

Roor Cxrors.—In storing potatoes, be sure they are dry first: if taken up in
wet weather, spread’ them out in’ a shed or outhouse, but do not expose them to
the light more the can be helped. Parsnips keep best in the ground, to be dug as
wanted. Beet to be taken up at once; cut off the leaves an inch above the crown,
and avoid bruising or cutting the roots; carrots treat the same; store both in sand.
or dry earth, Earth up cardoons; taie up scorzonera and salsafy, and preserve in
sand,

Srrawpernies to fruit in pots, onght now have plump crowns and be quite at
rest, the pots full of roots and free from worms. Now lay them on their sides in
coal-ashes, under a fence or wall, and by means of a few hurdles, or some other
rough contrivance, shelter them from rain, and there leave them till taken in to
force.

Vacant Prots in kitchen and flower garden to be turned over at once, and, if
needful, manured. All heavy land which is to lay unocenpied till spring should be
ridged up without breaking the clods. The autumn rains and winter frosts will
mellow and fertilize the soil, and in spring every clod will break down into powder
at a touch.

VERBENAS AND Peruntas from autumn cuttings are best kept with Cinerarias
and Primulas, as the same treatment will serve for all, and they will require fumi-
gating more frequently than other plants. All these things should be grown
very slowly now, as the worst times for them are yet to come.

Vines.— Where fruit is to hang some time, all decaying berries must be cut out
from time to time, and the atmosphere kept dry.

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.
HE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY’S MEETINGS in 1876

are arranged as follows :—Spring Show of Fruit and Flowers, \\ eInes-
day, March 15. First Great Summer Show of Fruit and TI lowers,
Wednesday and Thursday, June 7 and 8. Second Great Summer Show
of Fruit and Flowers, Wednesday and Thursday, July 19 and 20.
Great Autumn Show of Fruit and Flowers, Wednesday, November 8. Fruit and
Floral Committees’ Meetings, Wednesdays, January 19, February 16, March 1 and
15, April 5 and 19, May 3 and 17, June 7 and) 21, July 5 and 19, August 2 and 16,
September 6, October 4, November 8, and December 6.

ALEXANDRA. PALACE —MerropouiraAN Fuiorau Socrety’s» Exuirition or
Autumn Fiowers, August 23 and 24.—The exhibition of autumn flowers held at
the Alexandra. Palace, Muswell Hill, under the auspices of the Metropolitan Floral
Society, was most successful, and afforded ample proof of the useful-work accom-
plished by the Society in encouraging the cultivation of florists’ flowers. The
flowers, comprising dahlias, hollyhocks, gladioli, asters, roses, and zinnias, were
arranged on a series of tables placed in the grand central hall. Asters and gladioli
constituted the two chief features of the exhibition. Of the former there was an
immense display of splendid blooms, and of the latter there was an exceptionally
large number of.stands,,and the magnificent spikes from Messrs. Kelway and Son,
the Rev. H. H. Dombrain, and Mr, Douglas, made a brilliant display of colour, and
proved a great source of attraction. Hollyhovks were good, considering the difi-
culties under which cultivators have laboured of late years, and of the dablias there
was a lacge number of stands containing blooms of «xcellent quality, The roses
staged by Messrs, Paul and Son, Mr. C. Turner, Mr. J. Keynes, and Mr. Prince,
formed by no means the least pleasing feature of the exhibition; and especially

Cctober,

318 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

attractive was the stand of the Rev- J. B. M. Camm, a hybrid perpetual raised at
Slough, and distributed in the early part of the present year.

ALEXANDRA Patace.—GREAT INTERNATIONAL Exuipition or Fruit, Sept.
2 to 4.—The great exhibition of fruit held at the Alexandra Palace on the dates
above-mentioned was one of the most important events of the year. Grapes were
represented by some five hundred odd bunches, of good quality. Of Pine-apples
there was a good display, whilst the number of dishes of Apples, Pears, Peaches,
Plums, Nectarines, and other hardy fruits, was enormous. The competition in all
the classes was very severe, and in some there were no less than forty entries. The
display of vegetables was large and thoroughly good; so good, in fact, that in the
great class for a collection of sixteen sorts equal first prizes were awarded. The
table decorations were also good, and formed a pleasing feature of the exhibition.
The miscellaneous contributions, although comparatively limited in number, were
of an important character, and materially enhanced the attractiveness of the gather-
ing. Especially attractive were the two groups of new and rare plants from the
nurseries of Mr. B. 8S. Williams, of Upper Holloway, comprising, amongst other
valuable subjects, a splendid variety of Cattleya gigas, one of the newest and best
of the genus. The various productions were arranged on six lines of tables run-
ning the whole length of the central hall. The collections of fruit and the grapes
were placed on two rows of tables down the body of the hall, the decorated tables,
flower-stands, and bouquets on a series of tables in a line with the pillars on each
side, and the hardy fruits and vegetables were arranged on the tables in the aisles.
In the centre of the hall Messrs. Paul and Son, of Cheshunt, had a group of Pear
and Apple trees lifted from the open ground, and loaded with fruit. Near the
orchestra Messrs. Rivers had a bank of Peach, Apple, Pear, and other fruit-trees,
some of which were in pots, whilst others had been lifted from the open quarters.
At the end of the hall nearest the entrance was a large and tastefully-arranged
group of palms and other ornamental-leaved plants belonging to the Company.
The attendance was good throughout. We understand that since the opening of
the Alexandra Palace in May last the visitors have, in number, exceeded a million.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Rosz-PInK GLomRE DE Dison.—Rosarian.—This rose, figured in the FLorAL
Wortp of March last, is not yet in commerce, and therefore cannot be purchased.

SrEPHANOTIS FLORIBUNDA.— William Aveline, Messina.—The most suitable
compost in which to grow this delightfully fragrant stove climber is prepared by in-
corporating together, in equal proportions, good turfy peat and loam, and then add-
ing a liberal quantity of silver-sand and a small proportion of leaf-mould or
thoroughly decayed manure. The sand should be added in the proportion of one
part to every six parts of the peat and loam when mixed together, and of the leaf-
mould, or manure, one part to every eight parts of the soiiand sand. Whatever
pruning may be necessary should be done early in the winter, and as the flowers
are mostly produced on the young growth, the old wood must be thinned out mode-
rately to prevent overcrowding.

REPLANTING Hersactous BorpEer.—Encouraged by the articles in the Frorat
Wor tp since 1868, I have acquired a large collection of herbaceous, perennial, and
alpine plants. I desire to rearrange them, and shall be obliged if you will advise
me whether to move large clumps, with balls of earth, or to shake out the soil and
entirely replant them —H. Adamson, Ealing. [The plants should be lifted with a
moderate quantity of soil adhering to the roots; for whilst it is not needful to lift
them with large balls, it is not desirable that all the soil should be shaken from them.
October is one of the best months in which to replant the majority of hardy peren-
nials, as the soil is still warm, and they become established before the winter. It
will be found advantageous to divide the large stools into two or more portions].

Prumeria LurEa.— W., A.—This plant grows freely in a mixture consisting of
equal proportions of loam, leaf-mould, and peat, and a good sprinkling of silver-sand.

J. J. B.—We will take the matter into consideration, and, if practicable, will
give a few of the best examples in time to be of service for next year’s display.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 319

Poratrors ror Licur Srony Som.—Z. §.—The Late Rose will perhaps be
the most suitable potato for your dry stony soil. It is a very heavy cropper, and,
in light soils, of excellent quality. By planting this variety you are likely to ob-
tain heavier crops than by planting any other potato with which we are acquainted.
You might also plant’a small breadth of the Red Skin Flour-ball, sent out by Messrs.
Sutton and Sons, of Reading, for it is of vigorous growth, a heavy cropper, and on
your light soil the quality will be good. As there are several strains of the Red
Skin Flour-ball in the trade, and some of these very inferior, we would suggest that
you send direct to Reading for your seed. The true variety has a pure white flesh,
and if kept until winter is mealy when cooked; but very frequently red-skinned
potatoes, with a yellow waxy flesh, are sold under the name given above. The
manure should be applied at the time of planting, so that the crop may derive the
fullest possible advantage resulting from its application.

NERTERA DEPRESSA.—W/. A. D. and other correspondents are informed that
Nertera depressa, figured in the September number of the FroraL Wort, is
plentiful in trade collections, and the prices range from eighteenpence to half-a-
crown per plant, according to the strength of the specimens.

M. A. D.—A selection from the list of shrubs which appeared in the Froran
Wortp for 1872, page 289, will be suitable for the border. Such as are mentioned
as being rather tender should not be planted, for in so prominent 2a position it is
not desirable that failures, either total or partial, should occur. The green and
variegated Periwinkles would grow freely in the border, and by cutting them back
occasionally they can readily be kept within bounds.

Names or Ferns —A. B., Upper Holloway—No. 1, Davallia cherophylla ;
2, Lomaria discolor.

J. W., Southgate.—“ Paxton’s Botanical Dictionary ” will probably serve your

urpose.

f Names or Prants.—Our advices on sending plants by post appear to have
done more harm than good, for we have received a considerable number of plants in
tin boxes in a state of decomposition and utterly indeterminable, because packed in
wet moss, wet grass, and other such destructive rubbish. It is very strange that the
simplest packing suffices, and yet not one packet in ten comes to hand as it should.
— Constant Reader.—The Aerides could not be distinguished from the wet grass
amidst which it was packed, all being mucky together. C.A. C.V. S. M.—Your
creeper was decomposed. As to the rose, we never attempt to name roses sent by
post, and as regards florists’ flowers generally, it is impossible for any one to name
them after they have been cut a few hours. Just put a bit of your creeper between
two fresh but dry ivy leaves in a common letter, and post it to us directed Stoke
Newington, London, N., and no donbt we shall recognize it. But we must have
the flower as well as the leaf.-—R. W. Prince.—Your pretty shrub is Gaultheria
shallon. Semper.—Cuscuta Europea, thecommon Dodder. If you meet with C.
epithymum, we shall be glad of a bit. We can, however, promise you will not find
it on the moor you are now working at. Both the sundews may be found in the
“black spring ” there. ——Janson.—Y our rose is the original form of Resa polyantha,
a very scarce species, of which there is a notice in the ‘* Amateur’s Rose Book.” ——
W. Donald.—1, Vallota purpurea; 2, Plumbago capensis. H. A. D.—1, Poly-
podium gracilis; 2, Lomaria hastata; 3 and 4, we do not know as sent, but will
uame them on receipt of fronds in fruit.

EXHIBITIONS TO BE HELD IN OCTOBER.

1.—Cryptocamic Socrety or Scortann.—LHwvhibition of Fungi at Perth.
5 ro 7.—CrystaL Patace.—Cat Show.

6.—Royvat Horticutturat Soctetry.—Lrhibition of Fungi, and Meetings of
Fruit and Floral Committees.

19 ro 22.—AxexanpRa Patace, Muswert Hitt.—Poultry Show.
October.

320 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
TRADE CATALOGUES. ; *

Cuar.rs Turner, Rorat Nurseries, SLtovcu.—Catalogue of Bulbs, Roses,
Fruit Trees, etc. . —.

James Cocker AND Sons, Sunny Park AND FrocHALi Nurserins, ABER-
DEEN.— General Spring Catalogue of Soft-wooded Plants. f

H. Canngxu anv Co, 48 & 49, Kine Street, Woonwicu, §.E.—Tilustrated
Prospectus of the Victoria Hot Water Circulator.

Avexts DaLiiere, GHENT, BeLcium.— Catalogue of Azaleas, Camellias, Rho-
dodendrons, New and Ornamental Plants, ete.

Louis Van Hovuttse, Guent, Betctum.—A Catalogue of Stove and Greena-
house Plants.—Catalogue of Bulbs.— Catalogue of Azaleas, Camellias, Rhododen-
drons, Magnolias, etc.

New Pranr anp Burs Company, CorcnesterR.—Retail List of Filmy, Tree,
and other Ferns, Orchids, etc.

Pinz-appLre Nursery Company, Maina Vaz, Encware Roan, W.—A De-
scriptive Catalogue of Stove and Greenhouse Plants, Roses, ete.

Wittram Ro.iisson AND Sons, Tootine,S.W.—4 General Catalogue of Stove,
Greenhouse, Hardy, and Bedding Plants.

Ant. Roozen anv Son, OVERVEEN, ae Haartem, Hortann.—Catalogue of
Hyaeinths, Tulips, Crocuses, ete.

Tue THames Bank [ron Company, Otp Barce Wauarr, Urrern Grounp
Sreerr, Lonnon.—Trade Price List.

Barr anp SuGpen, 12, Kine Srreer, Covent GarpEen, Lonpon.—Autumnal
Descriptive Catalogue of Bulbs and Plants.

James CakTER AND Co., 237 & 238, Hicu Hoxzorn, Lonpon.— Catalogue
of Dutch Flower Roots, Plants, Roses, etc.

W. Cursusu Anp Son, Hicucate, N.—Catalogue of Hyacinths, Tulips, and
other Bulbous Flowers.

Dicxsons anp Co., Lerrg Watk, Pitric anp Bonnineton Farm. Eprx-
RURGH.— Descriptive Catalogue of Roses ; also Catalogue of Dutch Butbs, Pansies,
Phlozes, ete.

Dicxsons anp Co, Warertoo Prace, Entnrures.—Dessriptive Catalogue
of Dutch Flower Roots, New Pansies, Violas, Phloves, ete.

AtrreD Legcerton, 5, ALDGATE, Lonpon.— Wholesale Catalogue of Dutch
and other Flower Roots.

R. B. Marruews, 65, Vierorta Srreet, Beirast —Descriptive Priced Cata-
logue of Dutch Flower Roots.

Tuomas Mitygr, 102, Gopwin Srreet, Braprorp.—Catalogue of Flower
Roots, ete.

Wiuiam. Paut, Wattaam Cross, Lonpon.—Catalojue of Bulbs, Camellias,
Azaleas, ete.

Dick Rapciyrre anp, Co., 129, Hicu Ho1georn, W.C.—Catalogue of
Hyacinths, Tulips, and other Bulbs ; Horticultural Elegancies, ete.

Perer §. Ropertson anp Co., 33, Sr. ANDREW Square, EpinsurcH.—
Descriptive Catalogue of Dutch Flower Roots.

Rowertson aNnp Gattoway, 157, Ineram Street, GLascow.—Catalogue of
Dutch Flower Roots.

Wiri1am Roiiisson anp Sons, Tue Nurseriss, Toorine, 8.W.—Catalogve
of Cape, Dutc%, and other Bulbs.

Joun Scott, Mrrriotr Nurseries, CREWKERNE, SomersET,—Catalogue of
Flower Roots.

SHEPHERD AND Co., Dartine Nursery, snp 4231, Grorce SrtREeET,
Sxpney.— Catalogue of Plants and Seeds.

Sutron anp Sons, Reapine, BerKs.—Sutton’s Cataloaue of Bulhous Flower
Roots, Plants, Seeds, etc.

VILMORIN, ANDRIEUX, AND Co., 4, Qual pe LA MecissEriz, Paris.—Cata-
logue of Flower Szeds, and also Catalogue of Bulbs, ete.

B. 8. WiixiaMs, Vicrorta AND PaxapisE Nurseries, Upper Hoirway, N.—
Catalogue of Bulbs, Fruit Trees, Roses, ete, ,

T. 8. Ware, Hate Farm NorsErigs, Totrennau.—4 BC Bulb Guide, and
Catalogue of Spring Flowers.

GeorcE Yates, Stockport.—Caialogue of Flower Roots, etc.

PALMATIFIOUM,

POLYMORPHUM

CER

A

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 321

THE AMATEUR’S ARBORETUM.

BY ALEXANDER M‘KENZIE,

Landscape Gardener, Alexandra Palace, Muswell Hill,
(With Coloured Lilustration of Acer polymorphum palmatifidium.)

aeq]ARDY trees, characterized by elegance of outline or
nobility of aspect, or remarkable for the beauty of
their foliage, are every day becoming more and more
popular, and we may now reasonably hope that within
a comparatively brief period they will be appreciated
according to their deserts. Having for some years past advocated,
whenever a favourable opportunity occurred, the claims these trees
have upon the planter, and demonstrated in works entrusted to me
their capabilities for producing picturesque effects, it affords me a
more than ordinary degree of pleasure to take note of the increasing
taste for them. The lists of hardy trees are exceedingly rich in
trees of a highly ornamental character ; yet until quite recently they
have been all but ignored, and the most prominent positions in the
pleasure grounds have been planted with trees that are alone fitted
for grouping and massing in parks, and in the formation of distinctive
features in woodland scenery. The elm and the horse-chestnut are
of the highest value for the park and plantation, but they are alto-
gether unfitted for pleasure grounds. In these we require trees
possessing a greater degree of elegance and refinement, and also with
distinctly coloured foliage to enable the planter to produce striking
yet tasteful contrasts of colour, and also to afford as great a variety
as possible, for without variety the pleasure grounds lose what is to
my mind one of their principal charms. No one wishes to see the
same trees, the same shrubs, or the same flowers at every point. Yet
in the disposition of trees, planters often proceed as if it were of the
utmost importance to have precisely the same kinds throughout
pleasure grounds, and consequently distribute examples of each with
a certain degree of regularity from one end to the other. There is
much to be learnt in the disposition of “garden,” or, as they are
sometimes called, “ pictorial” trees; for it is a very easy matter
to put a golden or silvery-leaved tree where one with foliage of
a more sombre hue would be appropriate, or a weeping tree
where one of an upright habit would produce the best effect.

An Arboretum in which the most beautiful and distinctive
trees could be gathered together, and so arranged as to show their
characteristics to the best advantage, would form a most interesting
feature of the grounds attached to a country or surburban residence,
and to the amateur who takes a genuine interest in trees, it would
afford avery large amount of pleasure. The extent of the “Amateur’s
Arboretum” must of necessity be regulated by the space at disposal
and the amount it is intended to expend in its formation. An acre

of ground would afford room for a goodly collection ; but two acres
21

November,

322 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

would be better, as it would be possible to include a greater number
of species, have bolder groups of each, and also allow of a greater
breadth of turf between the groups, which, it need hardly be said,
will materially assist to heighten the general effect. Three or four
acres would be even better; but, excepting in the cases where the
pleasure grounds are very extensive, four acres should not be ex-
ceeded, as it is not desirable that the arboretum should be out of pro-
portion to other parts of the ground. A. situation contiguous to
or forming part of the pleasure grounds should be selected, and
as an undulating surface is preferable to one that is perfectly flat,
due regard should be paid to that point in making a selection of
the site.

It will in the first instance be desirable to form belts with trees
ofa suitable character along the boundary, for the purpose of enclosing
it somewhat, and for forming a background to bring out the colour
of those with variegated foliage. or these belts none but the
finest garden trees should be employed, and they should be disposed
in groups, each of these to be formed as far as practicable with
species and varieties of the same family.

As it is not at all necessary for the full enjoyment of the trees that
the grass should be closely shaven like the lawn or bowling-green, the
turf need not be disturbed beyond what is necessary in planting the
trees. To enable the arboretum to be visited during the winter
season, there must be a gravel walk, and this should be ofa suffi-
cient breadth for two to walk comfortably abreast, and wind in a
somewhat natural manner round and about the more important
groups. The gravel walks must not be overdone, for they are
costly to make and expensive to maintain in proper order, and
during the summer season, when the trees are at their best, it is
more pleasant to walk upon grass than upon gravel.

It will not be necessary to dwell upon the arrangement of the
trees, but a few rules for the guidance of the amateur will undoubt-
edly be of service. It has been already suggested that groups
should be formed along the boundary, and that these should repre-
sent as far as practicable particular families. These should consist
in the most part of trees with deep green or dark bronzy foliage, and
possessing boldness of character, for the purpose of bringing out
more prominently the characteristics of those of slender growth or
having finely-cut or coloured leafage. The central space must be
devoted to groups representative of distinct genera, or hues of
colour, with a few specimens standing out singly. Anything ap-
proaching a formal arrangement must be avoided, and as far as _pas-
sible the trees of small growth should be placed nearest the walks ;
but upon this point the planter must be guided by the conformation
of the ground and the character of the surrounding groups.
Although no allusion will be made to shrubs, there is no objection

to the presence of clumps of these ; indeed, a few, judiciously placed, -

will contribute materially to the beauty and diversity of the scene.
For the names of the best of the flowering shrubs, our readers can
refer to the list published in the Froran Wortp for August.

In connection with and forming part of the arboretum should

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 323

be erected a rather spacious glass structure, for the accommodation
of those trees that are not hardy enough to withstand the effects of
a severe winter. No heating apparatus will be necessary ; for any-
thing requiring more protection than that afforded by the glass
covering would be altogether out of place in an arboretum. Staging
also will not be required, for the trees will mostly be of a suflicient
height to produce a good effect grouped upon the floor.

In the preparation of a list of trees for the “ Amateur’s
Arboretum,” I have been careful to exclude those trees which are of
so robust a character as to be only adapted for parks, where size is
of some importance. Most of the trees also that will be men-
tioned are well adapted for planting singly, or in groups, in the
dressed pleasare grounds surrounding the residence. They are as
follows :—

Acer negundo variegata is now well known as one of the most
distinct and striking of hardy trees with white variegations. It is
very effective, either in the form of a bush or tree, and one or two
bold masses of six or eight trees are much better than single trees
scattered over the pleasure ground or the arboretum.

A. palmatum is a small-growing Japanese tree, with elegant
palmate leayes. The variety of this known as reticulatum has
bright green leaves, veined with yellow,and at certain stages is very
beautiful.

A. polymorphum palmatifidium, like the preceding, is of small
growth, and has rich green leaves which are deeply and elegantly
eut. There is not perhaps a more beautiful small-growing tree in
existence, as will be seen on reference to the striking illustration
to which these remarks are an accompaniment.

A. p. atropurpurewm is similar in character to the preceding, with
foliage of deep bronzy purple.

A. p. sanguineum has foliage of a bright reddish-crimson colour.

A, p. ornatum is a fine variety, with rich brownish-red leaves.

A. p. roseis marginatis differs from the variety immediately pre-
ceding it in haying the leaves marginec with red and white, and any-
thing more beautiful cannot be conceived.

_ All the varieties of Polymorphum may be grown in pots for con-
servatory or dinner-table decoration. In the pleasure ground they
should be planted in groups in sheltered situations, and where they
will be immediately under the eye. Owing to their comparative
scarcity, their relative hardiness has not yet been thoroughly
tested.

Ailanthus glandulosus, a noble tree, witan bold pinnate foliage,
deserving the heartiest recommendations. Large bushes, formed by
planting young trees and arnually cutting them close back to the
ground, have a handsome appearance in the pleasure ground. When
this is done they push up strong shoots furnished with grandly
developed leaves, and in beauty are equal to the finest of the strong-
growing ferns.

Aralia canescens is exceedingly beautiful when kept to a single
stem. ‘he leaves are large, much divided, and very handscme. It
is an excellent plan to cut it down annually, as in the case of the

November,

B24 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GABDEN GUIDE.

ailanthus, to compel it to produce strong shoots annually. It has,
moreover, a more handsome appearance when the foliage can be
seen from above.

Betula alba pendula, is the well-known Weeping Silver Birch,
and one of the most elegant of weeping trees.

B. alba incisa pendula, the cut-leaved Weeping Birch, is also
remarkably elegant as a weeping tree.

Castanea vesca aureo-variegata is a magnificent variety of the
‘Spanish chestnut, with variegated leaves. The latter are broadly
margined with bright yellow, anda moderate sized tree is as rich in
colour as a well-grown croton; it is one of the finest of the golden-
leaved hardy trees.

Orategus.—The best of the thorns grown for the beauty of their
flowers were mentioned in the August number, and I now allude to -
them to say that they should be liberally planted in the “ Amateur’s
Arboretum,” for the sake of their flowers in spring and bright berries
in autumn. The Cockspur Thorn, C. crus galli, and one or two
others, are also remarkable for the rich autumnal tints of the
foliage.

Fagus sylvatica purpurea is the Purple Beech, and one of the
most valuable of the dark-leaved trees for bringing out in bold
relief the rich colouring of those with goiden leaves.

F. sylvatica pendula is the Weeping Beech, quite remarkable for
its grotesque habit and picturesque appearance, and although not
desirable for the pleasure grounds when there is room for only one
or two weeping trees, it should have a place in the arboretum.

Fraxinus excelsior pendula, better known as the Weeping Ash,
is a useful tree for the formation of natural arbours, although less
light and elegant than some of the other trees of a similar
character.

F. parvifolia is undoubtedly the most beautiful species of ash,
for it is of comparative small growth and very elegant in outline. It
is the best for a garden or small arboretum.

F. ornus, known also as Ornus europeus, is also a beautiful tree
of small growth, and can be recommended where there is room fora
goodly number of kinds.

Kélreuteria paniculata is one of the very finest of ornamental
trees of small size, although not often met with in private gardens.
It forms a round head, has pinnate leaves, and produces bright
yellow flowers, which are followed by reddish bladdery pots that add
to its beauty. Messrs. Lane, of Berhampstead, have some splendid
specimens of this lovely tree.

Liquidamber styraciflua has leaves not unlike some of the smaller-
growing maples, which in the autumn change to a bright purplish
red and orange, and produce a rich effect.

Magnolia conspicua is a round-headed tree, producing in spring a
profusion of large white fragrant flowers.

Populus tremula pendula may be considered one of the most
beantiful of weeping trees for the garden, and can be highly recom-
mended.

Pyrus aucuparia, the Mountain Ash, is one of the handsomest

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 32!

trees in the autumn, when well furnished with its clusters of brilliant
scarlet berries. The Yellow-berried and the Weeping varieties are
desirable where room can be found for them.

Quercus robur concordia has leaves of the brightest gold, which
retain their colour throughout the summer.

Q. robur nigra is also a useful variety, the leaves being of a rich
brorzy purple.

Robinia hispida, the Rose Acacia, is a beautiful tree of small
stature, producing in summer lovely racemes of rose-coloured
flowers.

R. inermis, the Parasol Acacia, is a distinct and handsome tree,
with a small round head ; but it is better adapted for terraces and
’ other formal arrangements than for the arboretum.

Salix babylonica, the Common Weeping Willow, deserves mention
for its value in water scenes, for which purpose it is unsurpassed.

S. Americana pendula is of smaller growth than the preceding,
and very pretty.

Sophora japonica pendula can also be commended for its value as
a weeping tree.

Ulmus montana pendula is also a fine weeping tree. It is indeed.
one of the most elegant for the garden.

Virgilia lutea, a pretty tree of low stature, with pinnate leaves,
which in the autumn assume a bright yellow colour. In the
summer it bears drooping racemes of white flowers.

THE CLOTHING OF WALLS AND TRELLISES.
BY A WANDFRING HORTICULTURIST.

waeN the selection of plants of a scandent habit for covering.
a| the walls of dwelling-houses, due regard must be paid:
to the style of architecture and the height of the wall
so that they may be in every way suitable for the posi-
tion they are to occupy. In many instances the selec-
tion is made without consideration, and the effect is not good, because
of the plant not being strong enough to mount up to the top of the
wall in one case, or of being of such a rampant habit as to envelope
the house in foliage, and render it needful to be constantly cutting
away shoots to keep it within bounds. Again, are not plants of the
most formal habit planted against dwellings possessing a certain
degree of rusticity, and rambling plants against newly-erected villas?
and it cannot be said that in either case the results are satisfactory.
Beyond the ivies, the Wistaria and the Virginian Creeper, the
characteristics of climbing plants is but imperfectly understood, and
a brief description of some of the best may perhaps be useful at
the present moment. Something too may advantageously be said
about the management of climbers on dwelling-houses, for it is not
often of the best. Climbers for rather small villas of the ordinary
type should be of neat growth, and be somewhat rich in the colour
November,

326 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of the leafage, whether it be green or variegated, as, for example,
the Pyracantha, the Japanese Honeysuckle, or one of the green or
variegated ivies. The Virginian Creeper is much too large, as also
is the Wistaria, and the Wild Clematis, for the latter must, to appear
to any advantage, hang about in a somewhat natural manner, and
the others when they have not a large surface to spread over, require
constant attention to keep them in proper trim. But for houses of
a large size, a mansion for example, there are not two finer climbers
in existence than the Wistaria and the Virginian Creeper. The
former, with space for its development, presents one of the most
magnificent sights imaginable when sheeted with its lovely racemes
of lavender blue flowers, and at other times is equal to any of the
other robust-habited plants of the same character, and surpasses
most. ‘The latter is unequalled in point of lightness and elegance,
and when trained so that the young shoots are allowed to hang
down naturally over windows and all, the effect is indescribably
beautiful, as witness the magnificent example which covers a gen-
tleman’s residence in Castle Street, Reading. Hvidently the owner
is well acquainted with the best system of management, for while
the branches fall over gracefully like the spray of a gigantic water-
fall, there is no approach to that raggedness which characterizes so
many specimens.

In the case of the larger kinds, a certain freedom of growth
must be permitted, or the effect will be bad, but the smaller sorts
should be trained in a more formal manner, and be kept close to the
wall. Ivies more especially should not be allowed to hang about
loosely. Many good examples of ivy training could be mentioned,
but one of the best the writer of this has seen is at Wood Green,
near the termination of the Green Lanes, a district well known to
North London. There are two villas, and over the face of these the
ivy is trained in bands about two feet in width, and as those are
placed so as to bring out the architectural lines, the effect is exceed-
ingly pleasing to the eye. The ivy growing on Southgate Church is
also effectively trained; it is kept quite close to the wall, and al-
though it is trained quite close to the edge of the stone facing to
the windows, not a shoot is allowed to extend over them, and as the
stones forming the facings are arranged on the outer edge in the
usual zigzag manner, the effect is novel and striking. Walls that
are to be covered with plants unable to attach themselves to the
surface, and require frequent attention to keep them in order, should
be “wired” on the system advertised frequently in the FLoraL
Wortp by Messrs. Barnard, Bishop, and Barnard, as the new shoots
can be trained quickly and without damage to the wall, or the irri-
tating noise that must ‘be endured at intervals when they are
supported with nails and shreds. The cost of wiring the walls of a
moderate sized house is by no means heavy, as the materials are not
expensive, and the fitting can be done by a handy labourer. Hver-
green and deciduous climbers will require pruning annually; the
former in the spring just before they commence to make new growth,
and the latter as they lose their leaves in the autumn. In the
course of the summer they should all have occasional attention, and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 327

the new growth regulated, a few of the shoots removed, and the
others trained in, but not too stiffly.

In country districts, where there is not much danger of the fruit
being stolen, the walls of villas may be devoted to the choicer kinds
of fruit trees, the south aspects to grapes, the east and west to
apricots or pears, and the north to Morello cherries or plums. If
out-door grapes do not ripen readily in the district, the south aspect
may also be devoted to pears or apricots. Grape vines trained over
the walls of a dwelling-house are very pleasing in appearance
throughout the summer, and the foliage of the Hsperione, one of the
best out-door kinds, assumes in the autumn tints of the most brilliant
description, and produces a startling effect. Grapes that do not
mature sufficiently to be eaten are most excellent for tarts, and
make very nice light wines.

The walls of the Woodstock Rectory are covered chiefly with
the Hsperione and other grapes, and from these, Mr. Robert Fenn,
the well-known raiser and cultivator of potatoes, makes annually
large quantities of most excellent wines, sparkling and still. I have
had an opportunity of tasting them upon more than one occasion,
and at the great horticultural exhibition held at Birmingham in
1872 was on a committee formed to discuss the merits of Mr. Fenn’s
wines, of which some twenty samples were exhibited, and they were
unanimously pronounced to be of most excellent quality. Since
that year Mr. Fenn has been awarded a gold medal for wines exhi-
bited by request of Her Majesty’s Commissioners at the Interna-
tional Exhibition. I mention this merely to show what can be done
with out-door grapes.

I will now proceed to an enumeration of a few subjects that are
known to be thoroughly good, and which are in fact the best in their
respective classes.

Ampelopis hederacea, better known as the Virginian Creeper, is
equally adapted for town and country. All the laterals which hang
down should be cut close back to the first bud from the base at the
winter pruning or the plant will become unsightly, and large por-
tions. perhaps fall down in the course of the summer. A. tricus-
pidata has amore slender habit than the preceding, and smaller
leaves, and is most valuable, as it adheres to walls as firmly as the
ivy, and is well suited for quickly covering low walls and small
dwellings. One of the very best of hardy climbers.

Berberis Darwinii is exceeding good for training over low walls,
say of three or four feet high. It has small shining leaves, and in
the spring becomes sheeted with yellow flowers.

Bignonia radicans major is good for covering large spaces. The
growth is robust, the foliage handsome, and large clusters of tubular
crimson flowers are produced at the tips of the branches. It roots
to the wall much the same as the ivy, and the shoots must not be
shortened until the winter pruning, when they should be cut back
to one or two eyes.

Ceanothus azwreus is like the Berberis above mentioned, useful
for low boundary walls.

Clematis. Nearly all these are suitable, provided the growth is

November.
¥.

328 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

regulated and trained in neatly. They should be pruned rather
hard back, or the lower part of the wall will become bare. C. Jack-
manni, C. Alexandra, C. Lady Bovill, C. Lady Londesborough, C.
Miss Bateman, and C. Albert Victor, are six of the best. The last
three are spring bloomers, and the others flower during the summer
and autumn.

Crategus pyracantha. This is well known for its masses of white
flowers in spring, and clusters of scarlet berries in autumn and
winter. It should be trained close to the wall, and the young shoots
which push out horizontally be spurred back in the course of the
summer; no winter pruning will then be required.

Escallonia macrantha is very ornamental trained to walls about
six feet in height. It does best in a sheltered situation.

Honeysuckle. The nettle-leaved Lonicera brachypoda reticulata
is one of the most elegant of twining plants, and is equally adapted
for the rustic porch or the lordly mansion, and requires very little
attention.

Ivies. The best of these are of the green-leaved kind, comprising
Hedera lobata, H. digitata, and H. grandifolia. The last is known
as the Irish Ivy, The most desirable of the variegated forms are H.
maculata, H. pallida, and H. canescens. All the shoots that stand
out from the wall must be pruned hard back in March.

Magnolia grandiflora has a noble appearance trained to the walls
of a large mansion, but it is not suited for a small villa.

Passiflora cerulea is useful for draping walls with elegant foliage
in sheltered situations. When strong and established it blooms
freely, provided the young growth is not shortened during the
summer.

Roses are not so desirable as they are commonly supposed to be ;
one of the best is Gloire de Dijon. The climbing hybrid perpetuals
are also suitable.

Wistaria sinensis is one of the very finest of climbers for
medium sized and large houses. The young shoots must be nailed
in until the surface is covered, and in after years the shoots should
be shortened back in the course of the summer to encourage the pro-
duction of spurs. The white variety is less attractive than the
specific form.

THE AMATEUR’S ORCHARD.
BY AN AMATEUR POMOLOGIST.

ames () LD that every reader of the Froran Wortp could
7 i# have a peep into my fruit-room at the present moment,
for I am well sure that it would do them good, inas-
much as it would show that the possession of a good

@ store of fruit is not beyond the means of the amateur
who can find the room for the trees. The room is by no means
remarkable for its fittings, which are of the plainest and most.
commonplace description ; but it is so well filled with fruit of the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 329

choicest character that I am quite proud of it. I cannot say how
many baskets of apples and pears that it contains, but I have no
hesitation in sayiag that the stores are sufficient to maintain a
regular supply for cooking and eating until the spring, as a proper
proportion of late sorts were planted in the formation of the orchard
—if my little quarter of fruit-trees is deserving of that designation.
My object in alluding to my fruit-room is not to boast of my
skill in the cultivation of hardy fruits, for of horticultural skill I am
bound to confess I have very little; but rather to show that
amateurs may, without a very large expenditure of either money or
labour, provide themselves with a supply of hardy fruits of first-class
quality, and extending over about eight months of every twelve. I
am also desirous of acknowledging the immense amount of assistance
I have received from the pages of the Foran Wor tp in the forma-
tion and management of my plantation of fruit-trees. To the issue
for October, 1868, Mr. Gordon contributed an article entitled ‘“ The
Villa Fruit Garden,” which set me thinking, and in the end I deter-
mined to form a fruit garden in the manner so ably explained by the
writer. My grounds are not extensive, but I managed to spare a
quarter of an acre from a little paddock adjoining the kitchen
garden. This I had trenched over, and as the soil is of fairly good
quality, neither too heavy nor too light, no manure nor fresh soil
were applied. This plot of ground, which is rather more than a
hundred feet in depth and in width, is large enough to afford accom-
modation for two hundred and twenty-five trees at seven feet apart
each way, or a foot more than was advised by Mr. Gordon. They
were all obtained on dwarfing stocks, and trained in the form of
pyramids or compact bushes, according to their habit of growth,
and nothing could be more satisfactory than the growth of these
trees. All have grown freely, and such as have shown signs of
excessive luxuriance—as, for example, in the production of stout
shoots—have been carefully lifted in November, and replanted again.
But those making a fair growth and bearing good crops have been
undisturbed ; for so long as the growth is not so luxuriant as to
render the production of fruit-buds out of the question, no useful
purpose would, in my opinion, be served by disturbing the roots.
The pruning I have done myself, and it has afforded me much
interesting amusement. It is so simple that I have had no trouble,
and I do not see how an amateur can go wrong, provided he bestows
some thought upon his work. All that I do in the summer is to
shorten the shoots back to within about six inches of the base. This
is done, as arule, about the first week in August, but in late seasons,
when, owing to the coldness of the weather, the wood does not
become firm ‘so early as usual, the shortening back is deferred for a
week or a fortnight, because if it is done whilst the trees are still
growing rapidly the shoots will break again, and this is not desir-
able. On the other hand, if delayed until late in the season, the
trees will not possess sufficient vigour for the formation of flower-
buds. The winter pruning consists in removing a few shoots where
they are overcrowded, and in shortening a few of the longest, if
necessary, for the preservation of the contour of the tree, as I am

November,
‘

330 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN QUIDE,

careful the trees should not become lop-sided through the shoots
on one side taking the lead of those on the other. At first we
cropped the intervening spaces with potatoes and other vegetables,
as much for the purpose of keeping the ground free from weeds as
anything else ; but now the trees cover so much of the surface that
there is no space for vegetable crops.

Every year since 1870 we have had crops more or less good, for
we have endeavoured to protect the blooms from spring frosts by
means of coverings of thin canvas, and by hanging branches of fir
and evergreens on them, and it is quite surprising how effectual the
latter have been. By protecting a portion of the trees of the choicer
kinds, we have been able to obtain a really good supply in seasons
in which good fruit has been yery scarce. The trees, owing to their
comparative smallness, can be protected in the manner indicated
without much trouble, although the canvas covering must of neces-
sity be put on and taken off as occasion may require. The fir branches
are put on as the trees come into bloom, and are left until no farther
danger from frost is apprehended, as when the trees are in leaf there
is not much danger of the frost injuring the young fruit, excepting
that towards the extremities of the branches. '

I believe my orchard to be the most profitable part of my garden.
In June we annually commence to gather cherries; in July, plums,
a supply of which is continued until October; in August, we begin
to gather apples and pears, and of these we have a supply until
March, and if the season previous has been a fruitful one, we have
good samples of the latest kinds in April. Previous to the trees
referred to coming into bearing, we depended entirely for our supplies
upon a few standards, as hundreds of other owners of small gardens
do; and [ need hardly say that the fruit was meagre in quantity,
and the quality indifferent, for it is not often that old standards
’ represent first-class varieties.

The proportions of the several fruits are as follows :—90 apples,
which is, perhaps, the most useful fruit that can be grown in the
amateur’s garden ; 70 pears, which yield a long and abundant supply
of dessert fruit of the finest quality; 50 plums, which are found of
the utmost value for cooking and preserving, as well as for dessert.
I have about seventy varieties of the several fruits, and for main-
taining a regular supply throughout the seasons in which the
respective fruits may be had in perfection. The varieties, with but
few exceptions, are the same as those mentioned in the article
referred to, and as the selection could not well be improved, I
cannot do better than refer those of my readers who are disposed to
follow my example, to it.

A very nice crop may be grown on half the above space—namely,
an eighth of an acre for a hundred or fifty trees. Even fifty trees
would yield a very acceptable supply, but would not suffice to main-
tain a continuous supply for along period. I understand that apples
on the Paradise or pears on the quince do not succeed if the soil is
light and rests on gravel or chalk, but on loams and clays they
appear to be quite at home. At all events, my soil is a rather deep
loam, and the trees are in the most healthy and productive condition.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. ool

BEAUTIFUL DESSERT APPLES FOR WINTER USE.

BY THOMAS TRUSSLER,

Nurseryman, Edmonton, N.

peg 1|GHLY-COLOURED fruit contributes so much to the
63 4 attractiveness of the dinner-table when laid é la Russe,
especially during the winter season, when everything is
dull and cold without, that it behoves the planter to study

the colouring as well as the quality of the several fruits.
There is not much choice amongst grapes, for we have nothing better
than the deep purple of the Black Hamburgh, or the rich amber of
the Muscat of Alexandria; the finest winter pears are pretty much
alike so far as colour and appearance are concerned, but amongst the
apples there is a wide range for selection. Some of those of the
finest quality and remarkable for their productiveness have a very
dull skin, and are by no means attractive, whilst many others equally
good in quality and quite as productive have a skin of the most bril-
liant crimson, or striped with crimson on a rich yellow ground.
There are a dozen that are of great beauty, and these tastefully ar-
ranged, in combination with the more sombre coloured pears and
other fruits, produce a very rich effect upon the dinner table. They are
in fact so good in every way that they should form part of every plan-
tation of apple trees. Highly-coloured fruit is not much required
during the summer and early autumn months, and in making a selec-
tion from the varieties, I shall confine myself to those in season
during November and the three following months, the principal
portion being at their best during the Christmas and New Year’s
festivities.

The twelve that can be the most strongly recommended as com-
bining high colouring with fine quality and heavy cropping are as
under :—

Adam’s Pearmain, a large pearmain-shaped fruit, in season from
December to February. The skin is pale yellow streaked with
bright red on the sunny side ; the flesh is crisp, juicy, and delicious.

Api or Lady Apple, a very small round fruit, pleasant in flavour,
and having a clear shining skin of the most brilliant crimson. Itis
very beautiful upon the table, and is usually plentiful in the fruiterers’
shops during the winter.

Barcelona Pearmain is a medium sized fruit, with a highly aromatic
flesh, and skin of the most brilliant red in the sun, and rich yellow
in the shade. It is at its best from November to March. The
tree crops heavily.

Blenheim Orange, when well coloured, is very beautiful, and as it
is one of the finest cooking apples as well as being of fair quality for
the dessert, it can be strongly recommended. In season from Novem-
ber to February.

Cellini, although properly considered a culinary apple, deserves
mention here, for it is of fairly good quality for the dessert. The

November,

*

332 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

fruit is of medium size, the skin rich yellow, and streaked and mot-
tled with bright reddish crimson on the sunny side. Its season is
comprised in the months of October and November.

Court Pendu Plat, a medium-sized roundish apple, of the richest
crimson on the sunny side, the flesh rich and pleasantly acid, and
the tree a heavy cropper. Its season is from November to April.

Fearn’s Pippin is somewhat similar to the variety immediately
preceding it, and remarkable for its fine rich, red colour, splendid
flavour, and good bearing qualities. In use from November to
February.

Lord Burghley, a medium-sized fruit with golden yellow skin,
overlaid with deep shining crimson on the side exposed to the sun;
the flesh is tender, rather sweet, and full of juice. It is fit for use
about the middle of December, and remains in excellent condition
until the end of April.

Northern Spy,an American apple of large size, handsome in
shape and richly coloured, the skin being beautifully streaked
with bright red on a yellow ground; the flesh, as in the case of most
American apples, is tender, juicy, and perfumed. In use at the
same time as the variety immediately preceding.

Winter Pearmain, a large conical fruit of excellent quality, both
for cooking and dessert. The skin is richly painted with red on the
sunny side. The flesh is rich, crisp, rather sweet, and pleasantly
acid. The tree is very productive. In use from December to April.

Worcester Pearmain is a new apple, of surpassing beauty. The
fruit is rather above medium size, and the skin is of the most intense
crimson colour. It is of excellent quality, both as a dessert and
kitchen fruit, and the tree is said to bear heavy crops. Like other
new fruits it is as yet expensive, but not extravagantly so. The
raiser is Mr. R. Smith, of Worcester, who is now distributing it in the
ordinary course of trade. It is in use during September and the
three following months.

Several of the kitchen apples make splendid trophy groups, but
in my opinion they ought not to be put on the table, although I know
it is done sometimes.

KEEPING RIPE GRAPES IN WINTER.

BY WILLIAM COLE,
The Grove Vineyard, Feltham, Middlesex:

#79 T may not be amiss to remind those readers who have
grape-vines in their greenhouses, or are fortunate enough
to possess a vinery, that grapes after they attain maturity
: can be kept in the most excellent condition for a con-
aS siderable period after they are removed from the vines.
The length of time they can be so kept depends entirely upon the sort
and the time it will hang upon the vine. The Black Hemburgh
and other thin-skinned grapes cannot well be kept over Christmas ;

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 333

but the Alicante, Lady Downes, Gros Colman, and the Calabrian
Raisin will remain perfectly sound until March, or even April. One
of the chief points in keeping ripe grapes during the winter is to
maintain a dry atmosphere about them, and this is quite impossible
in a greenhouse, or a vinery filled with plants; for the latter will
require supplies of water at intervals, and the dampness arising from
them will so charge the atmosphere with humidity, as to render ii a
work of extreme difficulty to prevent the decay of the grapes. The
advantage of removing the grapes from the vines is immease, for it
sets the houses at liberty to be filled with bedding and other plants,
and it renders it possible to prune and dress the vines when there is
very little work going on outside, which to my mind are two very im-
portant considerations.

Nothing could be more simple than keeping the grapes perfectly
plump and fresh after their removal from the vines, and I will at once
briefly explain it. Procure as many soda-water, lemonade, or similar
bottles as there are bunches of grapes, fasten a piece of wire or string
round the neck of each, by which to suspend it to the shelves of the
store-room, and then put in each a dessert-spoonful of crushed char-
coal; fill with perfectly clean water, and hang them up in the store or
fruit room. Any room that is dry, and not likely to be intluenced
much by the weather outside, will do. Cut each branch about nine
inches below the point where the buuch is joined to it, and at once
insert the end of the branch in the bottle, so that the bunch will hang
down in its usual manner.

No part of the branch above the bunch must be removed, for it is
found that when they are cut across beyond the bunches the berries
soon shrivel; they also shrivel if the branch is separated from the
vine half-an-hour or so before its insertion in the water. The bunches
should be examined occasionally, for the purpose of removing any
berries showing signs of decay, to prevent their contaminating
others. But as a rule, they should be sent to table before there are
many decaying berries that require removal.

This plan of keeping grapes has been in operation six or seven
years, and in no one season has there been anything approaching a
failure. Amateurs, therefore, who have grapes still hanging in their
greenhouses may at once cut, and put them in bottles as above
advised, without any anxiety whatever. It was at first feared that
there would be a deterioration in flavour through the insertion of
the ends of the branches in water ; but several years’ experience has
shown that there is no real danger to be apprehended on that score.

™ Crinum Moorer has flowered finely at Glasnevin this season, and, justifies Dr.
Hooker’s figure and eulogistic description of it in the Botanical Magazine. It isa
grand hardy herbaceous plant, and, in common with others of this interesting genus,
is a thirsty soul.

Tue Century Pranr.—The variegated form of Agave americana has lately
flowered in the grounds of Windmill Lodge, Bishop's Stortford, and attracted a con-
siderable amount of attention. In this cage the history of the plant was certainly
over ninety years, but how much over no one could say.

November,

334 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

GROWING STOVE-PLANTS IN A COLD-HOUSE.
BY M. DE TERNISIEN.

= HIS may sound paradoxical, but it is strictly and mathe-
| matically correct. Imanage it thus:—In aspare corner
of a common glass-house | have put up a block of clay
bricks. In this I have set a fireplace, i.¢., some fire-bars,
= With a small door, and a horizontal flue running level with
the fire-bars to 2 length of about five feet. From the further extremity
of the flue rises some earthenware piping, by way of chimney. This I
have surrounded with ten to twelve iaches of clay. Over the fireplace is
aloft or hollow space,forming a sort of cavity in the brickwork about
two feet six inchesin depth, which is filled with tan covered over with
peat-earth. In the tan I have formed miniature frames with panes
of glass.

"When a fire is lit in the fireplace, it warms the bricks through,
as also the tan and peat-earth. The heat rising in the tan, communi-
cates itself to the glass boxes and their contents, setting up a gentle,
close, moist heat. The syringe must be freely used.

In the aforesaid frames I grow, if the expression may be per-
mitted, Bertolonias, Sonerilas, Dichorisandras, ete. Under such con-
ditions, these beautiful little specimens of the Almighty’s handiwork
thrive amazingly. To describethem is difficult, indeed impossible, but I
must make an attempt. Imagine charming litile rosettes upon beau-
tiful green, speckled, some with white and some with pink. What
enhances the beauty of the foliage is that the spots stand out as in
relief. In Bertolonia margaritacea the leaves are studded with innu-
merable small pearls ; in Bertolonia roseo-punctatissima tiny rubies
shine forth from a like setting. The flowers of these plants, pretty
as they are, are their least ornament. In another frame I grew a
collection of small kinds of Maranta. These, too, are charming
plants, with handsome velvety leaves striped in many colours. They
thrive equally well in this warm, moist temperature. Another frame
contains Dichorisandra, Hranthemum, Fittonias, a few Crotons, ete.

All these plants do wonderfully well under the conditions de-
scribed, and at comparatively small cost. In the course of twelve
months I burn 120 fr. (£5) worth of coal, or, more correctly speak-
ing, coal-dust, which stands me in only half as much as large coal.
In winter, that is to say in the coldest weather, I keep the fire going
from 6 a.M.to10 p.m. This does not last long, as the winters in
this neighbourhood (Cherbourg) are very mild. In February and
March I light the fire at 10 a.m. and keep it in until 8 p.m. In April
and May Tr begin at 4 p.m. and continue the fire till 8 p.m. During
the months of June, July, August, and September I leave off firing
altogether, resnming about October 15th.

I have not yet tried Anecte chilus ; but I am convinced that these
delightful little orchids would also do well. Here would be another
jewel to add to my collection. Unfortunately they are expensive
plants. I ought to add that in summer, when the sun sends its rays

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 335

right through my small glass house, I shade with a woollen cloth.
Wool is a bad conductor of heat, and suitably tempers the solar heat,
contributing thereby to the maintenance of a uniform temperature
and humidity. If linen cloth were used the leaves would flag, and
the plants would probably suffer.

My method of heating is the most primitive, the simplest, and
cheapest that can be conceived; no thermosiphon, no hot-water
pipes, no steam. Only some clay and a few bricks, some iron bars
and asmalliron door. In winter-time the clay-bricks diffuse heat
enough to keep out the frost from every part of the cold-house, and
so two ends are served at once.

Of \course I write for growers with limited purses. The rich
have many resources from which their less affluent brethren are
debarred. Not indeed that the wealthy can dispense with their
poorer neighbours, for all experience shows how mutually dependent
are our lives upon one another.

And now to conclude with a list of the plants I grow in my
miniature stoves. I presume that the same plants could be grown
in living rooms by placing them in portable glass cases :—

No. 1 Case.—Maranta illustris, Jagoreana, virginalis, Mackoyana,
vegalis, roseo-picta, hieroglyphica, and pulchella.

No. 2 Case.—Dichorisandra vittata, undata, mosaica; Bertolonia
guttata albo punctatissima, roseo-punctatissima, margaritacea; Gra-
vesia roseo-punctatissina; Sonerila mergaritacea; Eranthemum
agneum.

No.3 Case.—Fittonia argyrcneura, Pearcei ; Croton interruptum,
undulatum; Eranthemum marmoratum; Caladium chantinii ; Hoya
bella.

You will see that I dot my i’s; it is wellin horticultural matters.
We cannot bestow too much care and attention on plants, especially
on plants as delicate as those just enumerated, which many amateur
horticulturists regard as altogether beyond their reach,

BRIGHT FLOWERS FOR DULL DAYS.

BY A TOWN AMATEUR.

RAN every garden containing a conservatory (or even a
44, greenhouse) an endeavour should be made to keep it gay
with flowers from October to March; for during the
period embraced by these two months there are, practi-

aie cally, no flowers out-of-doors ; and if flowers are required
in the conservatory at any season of the year, I take it to be when
there are none outside, and when also the weather is so dull and
cold, as to make one be glad to take advantage of the comfortable
temperature of the plant-houses. Winter-flowering plants are
plentiful—far more so than is supposed to be the case; but as a
grand display of flowers can be produced with greater facility during
the spring and summer than at any other time, the amateur is apt to

November,

336 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

devote his chief attention to the cultivation of those subjects bloom-
ing during the seasons last mentioned. For many years past I have
filled my conservatory during the summer with ferns, palms, and a
few of the bold-growing, ornamental-leaved plants; for we have
such an abundance of flowers of all kinds, more especially of roses,
in the garden, that they are not so much wanted in-doors. I am,
therefore, well able to bestow more care and attention upon those
things which may be had in bloom during the winter, and my dis-
play of flowers is much admired by my friends. I have also a little
plant-stove, thirty feet in length, and ten feet in width; and as this
also contains a fair proportion of plants blooming in winter, we have,
during the Christmas and New Year’s festivities, a profusion of
flowers for in-door decorations.

In this communication I am simply desirous of making better
known those subjects which contribute so much to the attractiveness
of the conservatory and plant-stove from the present moment until
the month of March next. I shall say very little about their culti-
vation, for I am not at all anxious to bore the reader with a long
string of cultural details; but as I am anxious to do allI can in
assisting those who may be wishful to grow any: of the subjects that
will be mentioned, I shall be happy to advise them on their making
their wisbes known through the Editor.

The winter-flowering greenhouse plants are not so brightly
coloured as those occupying the stove; yet, as a much larger num-
ber of readers can cultivate them, they must here have the first place.
Acacia affinis is one of the finest of the winter-flowering species of
this great family; but it requires so much space, that it is only
suited for a lofty structure, and I have discarded it. A. armata is
more generally useful, and very distinct. It is very compact, has
dark green leaves, and bears a profusion of its golden ball-like
flowers. I prune my specimens annually, as they go out of bloom;
and when they commence to break, shift them into a larger pot,
using a mixture of peat, loam, and sand. Neat specimens from one
to three feet high are the most attractive. The winter-flowering
Carnations are highly valued, as the flowers come in so useful for
bouquets. The cuttings are struck in the spring, and the plants
shifted on until they are put in six-inch pots. My fuvourites of
these are Boule de Feu, scarlet; Daybreak, rosy scarlet; Irma, rose ;
Ta Belle, white; Liverani, scarlet and crimson flake; Marguerite
Bonnet, white ; Miss Jolliffe, blush pink ; Souvenir de la Malmaison,
blush, large, and scented like a clove, and Vulcan, scarlet. From my
knowledge of these flowers, it would appear to be difficult to go
wrong in selecting varieties, as they are all so good; but the above
are exceedingly beautiful, and represent the most useful colours.
Coronilla glauca is most useful for autumn flowering, as its bright
yellow flowers are freely produced, and pleasantly fragrant. If it is
pruned moderately every spring, and repotted every second year, it
will bloom abundantly. it should be placed out of doors during the
summer, and be well supplied with water. Celosia pyramidalis I
find very useful, as the plumy inflorescence is so attractive when
intermixed with cut flowers. The seed is sown in May, the seed-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 337

pans placed in a cucumber frame, and the plants grown on in much
the same manner as balsams. Some of our specimens are three feet
high, and perfect pyramids of bloom. Cyclamens are grown largely.
I have quite one hundred specimens, representing all the shades of
colour found in these lovely flowers. These are grown in the usual
way. Epacrises, of which I have about a score nice plants, con-
tribute much to the beauty of the conservatory. Erica hyemalis
and £. gracilis are also most attractive, and the best of the winter-
flowering Heaths. These all have the young shoots cut rather hard
back, soon after shifted into larger pots, kept in a frame for a month
or so, and then placed out of doors for the remainder of the season.
Managed in this way, it is astounding how well they bloom. Pri-
mulas, crimson and white, are, like the Cyclamens, grown in quan-
tities ; and to maintain a succession of bloom, we sow seed early in
March, and again late in April. Rhododendron jasminiflorum and
its varieties are charming for winter, for they require very little
attention beyond being well supplied with water. Of the varieties
I have Princess Alice, blush, very fragrant, Princess Helena, pink,
and Princess Royal, rich rose. Salvia splendens and S. fulgens are
both very attractive, and large specimens are readily produced. My
plan is to strike a sufficiency of cuttings, grow them on freely until
the end of May, and then plant them ina bed or border of rich
soil. They are stopped twice in the course of the summer, and
towards the end of September are lifted and put in pots, according
to their size. They soon commence to bloom, and make a brilliant
display.

We will now turn to the stove plants, and I will briefly indicate
a few of the most useful. Aphelandra aurantiaca Roezli has dark
bronzy green leaves, and spikes of brilliant orange scarlet flowers.
Centropogon Lucyanus has trusses of tubular-shaped, rose-coloured
flowers. Hranthemum pulchellum is of small growth, and has deep
blue flowers. Poinsettia pulcherrima may be considered one of
the most attractive of winter flowers, and is well known forits large
terminal heads of rosy scarlet bracts. Huphorbia jacquineflora is
held in high repute, for its branchlets, when well furnished with
bloom, are most valuable for head-dresses. Scutellaria mocciniana
is also very attractive, and a general favourite. These are all grown
in much the same manner. Early in March four or five cuttings are
inserted round the side of a three-inch pot, and these are shifted on
as required, until they are put in six or eight inch pots, according to
their size. As the cuttings are not divided, as many pots of each
kind must be filled with cuttings, according to the number of speci-
mens required. Hucharis amazonica, from which we obtain large
numbers of pure white flowers, is rather peculiar in its require-
ments. It may be had in bloom at any season of the year; but to
insure its flowering at midwinter, the plants require repotting in
May and to be grown on freely, until the new growth is completed.
Then they must be removed to a cooler position, and kept rather dry
at the roots until the early part of November, when, by placing
them in a warmer corner, and supplying liberally with water, they
will soon commence to produce their lovely flowers. We have just

November. 22

.

388 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

now a grand display of Gesneras, consisting of G. exoniensis, G.
zebrina splendens, and G. refulgens. For single plants for the
dinner-table, and for vases, we put one corm in a small sixty, and,
when well started, shift it into a five-inch pot. For specimens we
put five corms in a five-inch pot, and transfer them when the young
plants are about three inches high into nine-inch pots. The corms
are started about the middle of April, to insure the plants flowering
in November and December. The varieties of Zpiphyllum truncatum
are most effective, whether in the form of small plants for the
dinzer-table, or large specimens. They can be grown on for many
years, without having to renew the stock by propagation. The main
point is, as soon as they have made their new growth, to place them
in a sunny position, and keep dry at the roots. They should be
taken into the stove about the end of October, and then be watered
liberally.

In addition to the above, I grow a few other good things; but
I have thought it better to enumerate a few of the best only. It
will be seen that, with a greenhouse and a small stove, there need
be no difficulty in having an abundance of flowers during the next
two months. I have omitted all mention of the Camellias, for every
one knows they may be had in perfection during the winter. And
I have said nothing about Orchids, for I have only a few of them;
but I have seen some in the houses of friends which are so good,
that I shall look them up before long.

THE AMORPHOPHALLUS RIVIERI.

BY M. AUGUSTE RIVIERE,

Gardener-in-Chief at the Luxembourg, and Director of the Garden at Hamma,
Algeria.

Re ARLY in the year 1859, I received some seeds from
Cochin-China, amongst which were found a couple of
small stray bulbs. Their origin leading me to suppose
that they would require heat, I placed them in a stove-
house, where they grew, increased in size, and un-
folded their spathes. They proved to be arads. They remained
three years in this state.

When my plants had multiplied sufficiently, desiring to know
something more about them, I removed a few specimens into the
temperate-house ; under this treatment they took a larger growth,
and acquired a more lasting vegetation. Not wishing to stop short
at this point, I soon afterwards removed others into open beds, out
of doors. Here the growth experienced a check, but the plants
were not destroyed. Growing more slowly, they became more
robust and longer-lived, and soon they acquired their maximum
development. The corms became doubled in size, and put out a
number of small offsets, which enabled me to propagate the species
on a large scale.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 3389

Thad long had the honour and advantage of being in communi-
eation with M. Durieu de Maissonneude, the learned Director of
the Botanic Garden at Bordeaux, and I lost no time in acquainting
him of my discovery. “It is the most beautiful plant I have ever
seen,” he said to me the year after, and he described it in detail.
He propagated it as 1 had done, and then asked my permission to
entrust a few of the corms to some amateur friends, correspondents,
and collectors, to which I readily gave consent. The first blossoms
detected by M. Prillieux showed to what tribe the species belonged ;
it was an Amorphophallus. As its general appearance, botanic
peculiarities, and hardihood distinguished it from other previously-
known species, a distinctive appellation became necessary; after
some hesitation and delay, the name Amorphophallus Rivieri was
fixed upon. Under this name it has been known ever since, and we
have continued to raise it, upon a large scale, in our magnificent
garden at Hamma, in the neighbourhood of Algiers.

The tuberous root of Amorphophallus Riviert attains to a con-
siderable size. In the Botanic Gardens at Bordeaux, a specimen of
3 kilogs. (6°6lbs.), and another of 4 kilogs. (8°8 lbs.), weight have
been seen. It is of a greyish-black colour, hemispherical, concave
on the upper surface, having, in the centre of the depression, a
small conical protuberance of a pink or purplish colour. It is
nothing more nor less than a leaf-bud, from which proceeds the leaf.
If the corm be too immature to bear a flower, it produces a leaf
only. From this point should grow annually, but successively, the
flower and the leaf, the flower preceding the leaf, a peculiarity which
the Amorphophallus shares with other plants.

When the corm has attained a certain size, as soon as vegetation
commences a sort of stem makes its appearance: this is the inflo-
rescence. A spike appears, with a few bractiform scales about the
base, which grows rapidly, attaining a height of 50 to 80 centimetres
(18 to 30 in.), or more, in the course of a fortnight or three weeks.
The summit then diverges, opens, and forms a sort of cornet, con-
voluted about its own axis, sometimes from right to left, sometimes
from left to right, as I have noticed on the same individual in two
consecutive years: this is the spathe. The disk widens towards the
summit; inside it is of a purple brown; externally, of an intense
green, varied with light reddish or whitish spots. From the
centre of the spathe issues an elongated body (phallus), pointed,
depressed, or dilated, shining, and of the same colour as the interior
surface of the spathe itvelf, which it considerably exceeds in length:
this is the spadix. It is sterile throughout the greater part of its
length. The monecious flowers are scarcely visible; they are
arranged in a ring about the base of thespadix. The blossom is not
only insignificant in regard of appearance, but its duration is short
as well—happily so, I feel bound to add, as during its continuance
the plant emits a horribly nauseous, moribund odour, which is found
in certain arads, and which, at first, quickly disenchanted me with
its culture under glass. Fortunately the smell had disappeared five
days later. Those who are not interested botanically in the blossom
would do well to remove it, and so avoid the disagreeable odour that

November.

340 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

it diffuses. The bud which is to produce the leaf will grow all the
more vigorously.

In 1870, I was enabled to observe the first fructification of my
Amorphophalli, which occurred simultaneously at the Luxembourg
Gardens and at Hamma, in Algeria. In July the fruit had attained
full maturity ; it is of a pulpy texture, red in colour, and clustered
in catkins, having a considerable analogy to that of the common
arom, or of Arum Italicum.

The leaf does not show until after the inflorescence has died off;
then, rising from the self-same depression in the upper surface of the
root, appears another bud, likewise composed of scales, from the
centre of which appears a sort of stem, which grows lustily ; this is
the petiole, which later will have to support the full spread of the
magnificent leaf. Big, cylindrical, glabrous, and furrowed longi-
tudinally, it ascends rapidly, with a tumid but closed summit; then,
as it increases in size, and attains a height of 30 or 40 centimetres
(11 to 15in.), the extremity opens, and three articulations, hereto-
fore accrete, divide and separate, spreading out into three main
ramifications. These articulations next subdivide, and produce other
articulations, lateral, distichous, alternate, which in their turn
produce others, thus elaborating the skeleton of a gigantic peltate,
and irregularly-dissected leaf. Meanwhile the petiole continues to
grow, sometimes attaining a height of three feet, and the disk forms.
The extremities of the ramifications now become folded over like the
refiex lips of a vase, and the leaf of the Amorphophallus Riviert,
with its profound inclinations, its multifold articulations, and its
wing-like segments, presents the appearance of a must graceful
monophyllous palm.

To the elegance of contour of the plant itself must be added the
peculiar appearance of the leaf-stalk, which is somewhat rough, of a
very intense green colour, from which the reddish, whitish, or purplish
patches stand out in relief, a peculiarity observable likewise on the
articulations of the leaf, and which gives to the epidermis generally
the appearance of a serpent’s skin. The spike bearing the inflo-
rescence has previously presented the same characteristics. The
petiole is round and ffull, but towards the base may be observed an
alveola, in which are formed the two forthcoming buds, one to bear
the next year’s flower, the other the leaf, both of them being renewed
annually.

The Amorphophallus Rivieri is almost always monophyllous, a
single petiole forms, and consequently a single leaf is produced.
Cases have, however, been met with in which several leaves have
appeared on a single stalk. The aspect is not less pleasing, although
less regular.

The culture of Amorphophallus Rivieri is simple, but certain
precautions are indispensable to secure a luxuriant growth. My
mode of treatment is the following :—The vegetation of the plant
invariably begins to show itself about the middle of April. Pots
should be in readiness of suitable sizes, so that the largest parts of
the bulbs may be surrounded by 1 or 2 centimetres (3 to 4 #1.) of
soil; very light earth from the orangery is,preferable; they are

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 341

plunged to a depth of 4 to 6 centimetres (15 to 2in.) The pots
are then set in a frame, or in a cold-house, but as near as possible
to the glass, so that, under the stimulus of the sun’s rays, the
emission of roots may be more prompt. The soil should be kept
slightly damp by watering regularly.

When a cold-house is not available, a cold-frame will do to
receive the plants after potting. I say a cold-frame, because it will
not do to force the plants by giving heat; this would be to defeat
the object in view, seeing that the plants will have to go out in open
beds at a time when the frosts are not quite over.

Up to the middle of May the plants are kept as above; they
should then be brought out, taking care to stand them in the sun.
The bud containing the inflorescence will not be long in making its
appearance, and this is the most favourable time for planting out in
the open ground. In removing the plants from the pots, care should
be taken not to disturb the earth adhering to the corms, nor to injure
the young rootlets.

A rich, and especially a light, soil, as being more easily warmed,
is best for the plant, but it is not absolutely indispensable ; indeed,
the plant is not very fastidious in this respect. What is most needed
is sunshine, and the plants should be placed accordingly, If the soil
is poor it should be amended, and in every case it should be deeply
worked.

The striking appearance of our arad adapts it for planting out
singly on lawns, where it produces a very fine effect; or it may be
set in groups of three or four together, or in beds. For the latter
the corms should be sorted previously, so that the largest, which will
produce the biggest plants, may be placed in the centre, the next
largest in size next, and the smallest outside. Without this pre-
caution, the beds would present an irregular appearance. They may
be put in at distances of 80 centimetres (30 in.) apart, more or less
according to fancy, and should be covered over with 5 or 6 centi-
metres (2 in.) of earth, or even more. This is an essential point
to strong healthy growth, as the roots are oniy developed on the
upper surface of the root, about the base of the leaf-bud. After
planting, the ground should be covered with a tolerably thick
mulching of rotted dung or leaves. During the whole period of
estivation, water should be given frequently to keep the soil always
damp.

it these conditions be carefully attended to, the Amorphophallus
Rivieri will retain its graceful foliage until autumn, and constitute
an ornament to the lawn during the space of four months. The
leaves are very sensitive to cold, and are withered by the first frosts.
As soon as they are destroyed, it is time to think about taking up
the bulbs to winter them until the beginning of the next season—
é.e., from about the end of October or beginning of November until
the beginning of April. The withered portions of the leaf-stalks
should be cut down beforehand.

Whilst the corms are still young they are simple, but after several
years’ growth they put out, on the surface of their superior depres-
sions, and also at the base of the central buds, a good many small

November.

342 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

tuberous rhizomes of variable shape, and of a somewhat lighter grey
than thecorm itself. These are the future scions, with whose aid the
species isto be propagated. They are fragile, and are readily detached
from the parent root. A few which had been forgotten, and left in
the ground all the winter without shelter of any sort, sprouted in
the following spring, which will give an idea of the hardihood of
the species.

When once the corms are taken up and the scions detached,
the former may be kept as easily as dahlias and other similar bulbs.
On or under the shelves in a cold-house, in an orangery, in a cellar,
or anywhere out of reach of the frosts, they will keep well; but too
dry a place should be avoided, as the corms lose their moisture, and
become flabby, to the detriment of their buds. More than once
this has been the cause of failure.

The detached scions should be spread out ona shelf in a dry
place, to allow their wounds to cicatrize ; after which they should be
deposited in layers, or in sand, or pots, or boxes, as in the stratifi-
cation of certain kinds of seeds. In the ensuing spring they should
be planted in seed-beds, where they will form subjects, which, in
their turn, after a couple of years’ growth, will be ready for
decorative purposes.

In this way the Amorphophallus Rivieri is grown in open ground ;
but it would be a shame that a plant so ornamental should not be
used for in-door decoration as well. For this purpose we should
proceed as follows :—About the beginning of April the corms should
be potted, as directed above, and the pots set in a stove; towards
the middle of May the plants become developed, and should then be
given abundance of air. It would, perhaps, be best to set them in
an airy cold-frame. All through the summer water should be given
abundantly overhead and at the foot of the plants. When they have
attained a sufficient size, they may be placed in the rooms, where
they will find few rivals. Single subjects are generally used. Here
they may be kept for a fortnight. They will then require refresh-
ment, and to this end should be put in the cold-frame again for a
week ; after this they may be brought back again for a fortnight, and
so on until they are done with.

On the approach of antumn, when the leaves of the pot subjects
begin to fade, the waterings should be less frequent, and from
October until April they should be discontinued altogether. The
plants should then be repotted in pots of larger size if required, and
with fresh earth. In winter time the pots should be shelved under
glass. The season of flowering is likely to be materially influenced
by the mode of culture: for example, the plants we raised at first in
the stove invariably showed their inflorescence in December, January,
or February; whilst those reared in the temperate-house were as
late as April. With the method we now practise, <.e., taking up the
bulbs, keeping them, and replanting in April, it is May or June
before the spathes appear, which allows us to set out the plants in
the open ground, without risk of injury.

It may be imagined that the hardy character of our arad enables
it to dispense with shelter and to winter in the ground, where

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 343

the climate is warm enough. In Spain and Italy, and on the Medi-
terranean shores, the comparatively mild winters do it no harm. In
Algeria, in the garden at Hamma, where we have cultivated it for
several years past, and where it grows so readily that it may be
considered as naturalized, the bulbs are left out in the open ground.

Such is the Amorphophallus Rivieri. Its size, and the peculiarity
of its foliage, the singularity of its petiole and ramifications, the
elegance of its shape, and withal its hardihood, render it one of the
most ornamental plants for a conservatory, or for in-door or out-
door decoration. For several years past the gardens of the Luxem-
bourg have shown specimens growing, singly or in groups, on the
lawns and in beds. ‘he general effect has been magnificent. It is
a new plant to add to our list of exotic flowers.

CUCUMBERS AT CHRISTMAS AND ALL THE YEAR
ROUND.

BY A KENTISH GARDENER.

wees) 11T TER has been placed in my hands by the Editor, in
fg) which a correspondent asks for advice on the cultiva-
tion of cucumbers generally, and more particularly on
the production of winter crops. The Editor, who has
long been acquainted with the success which has been
achieved in the cultivation of cucumbers in the gardens under my
charge, asks me to advise the correspondent as to the steps that he
should take, and it is with much pleasure that I comply with the
request. I shall not attempt to write along treatise on the subject,
for I have not the time, and I am afraid that the space cannot. be
well spared just now.

First of all, J would say that the secrets of producing cucumbers
during the dull months of winter, in a condition fit for use, are few
in number, and by no means difficult to understand. In the first
place, it is no use to attempt to grow them, excepting in a properly
constructed and sufficiently heated house. Hipped or span-roofed
houses are the best, and cucumbers grown in winter in small lean-to
houses are often bitter through an insufficiency of light. Secondly,
sufficient heating power must be at command, to prevent the plants
suffering from a low temperature in severe weather. Whether
grown upon a hot-water tank or upon rubble, the heating medium
must be sufficient to maintain a bottom-heat of 80°, for plants in a
fruiting state will not continue so long with a less warmth at their
roots. Thirdly, to have them through November, December, and
the first two months of the new year, the plants ought to be raised
either from seed or cuttings in the month of August previous, and
planted out in the beds not later than the first week in September.
Fourthly, the main object should be to encourage a vigorous growth

N ovember,

344 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

during the earlier stages, and in doing this give plenty of air both
night and day, to enable the new growth to be both stout and firm.
Towards the end of September air must be admitted more cau-
tiously, as the nights are sometimes cold and damp, and the fires
must be started about the same time, to keep the temperature to its
proper height, and also to expel any excess of moisture. Also bear
in mind that a close stagnant atmosphere at this season of the year
is a frequent cause of mildew, which must be warded off by timely
attention, or the plants will soon be destroyed. Fifthly, you must
not stop the young growth severely after it has reached the trellis.
One or two pinchings of the strongest leaders, about the middle of
October, is all that will be required. After that time they will not
make more growth than is needful for the production of fresh fruit.

As regards the temperature of the house up to that time, much
will depend upon the state of the weather. Ifa nice growing tem-
perature of 70° can be obtained during the day, and by early closing
60° during the night, the plants will be better without the aid of
fire-heat. A high temperature in the house up to this time only
creates a weak spindly growth, which, when winter comes with its
long nights and dull days, is next to useless for the production of
fruit. Care, too, must be taken not to over-crop through the first
part of the season, if a continuous supply of fruit is required. The
cultivator must aim at securing vigorous-grown plants by the end of
November without the use of much artificial heat, and then they will
be in good condition to go through the winter satisfactorily. De-
pend upon it, nothing beats a healthy root-action, and a strong
vigorous growth, obtained as much as possible under the most
natural conditions. Every leaf made after the middle of November
must be preserved with the greatest care, for after that time no
more are produced than are really required. The leaves must be kept
clean and healthy by gentle syringings on the mornings of mild
days, when air can be admitted to dry up’the superfluous moisture
quickly. A gentle fumigation of tobacco must be given directly
there is the least trace of green-fly or thrips.

A temperature of 70° to 75° by day, and 60° by night, is a safe
temperature for so dull a season of the year. In the spring, plants
that have been in bearing for two or three month very often show
signs of weakness ; therefore, they must not be excited too soon.
The middle or end of February will be plenty early enough, and
then, as the days lengthen, a day temperature of 80° by fire-heat may
be maintained. Previous to increasing the day temperature, give the
surface of the bed a top-dressing three inches in thickness of very
short rotten dung, the fattest that can be obtained, or, what is better
still, equal parts dung and good Jumpy fibrous loam: this should be
warmed before being put on the bed. The surface roots will soon
find their way into this, and in a short time throw new life and vigour
into the plants. In March, syringing, both night and early morning,
may be practised with benefit, and a humid atmosphere must also
be maintained by the use of evaporating troughs, and by frequently
damping the paths of the house. Remember that cucumber plants
absorb an immense quantity by their leaves. In a few weeks from

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 345

this time they will begin to bear vigorously, and to keep them going
steadily the roots must receive constant assistance by a good soaking
of clear, warm, weak manure-water at least once a week, In June,
cut away some of the oldest growth, and give the bed another sur-
face dressing equal to the first; also continue the application of
manure-water. If this is done, and the plants attended to carefully
through the summer, they will yield a productive crop until tke
season comes round again for planting a fresh stock for the winter.

WINTERING THE AFRICAN LILY.

(ae ey should be generally known that the African lily (Agapan-

ANA be) thus wmbellatus) may be wintered in any place whereit can
obtain a moderate amount of light and be kept free from
frost. I keep a couple of dozen large plants through the
winter months in a place originally intended for a store-
room, in which I can keepa fire during frosty weather. The plants
areplaced ona rough stage raised in front of the window. I stand them
out of doors in a sheltered place in April or May, if the weather is
favourable. They were originally grown for placing along the sides of
a broad walk ; but I have since had a conservatory built, for the fur-
nishing of which I find them extremely useful at a time of the year
when flowering plants are scarce. The treatment they receive
naturally causes them to bloom late, and they come in exactly at the
time they are most wanted. I find them so easy to manage, that I
would advise amateurs who are hard pushed in the latter part of the
Summer-time to keep up a supply of bloom in their conservatories,
to grow a stock of agapanthus, if they have any shed or outhouse
in which they can manage to winterthem. As to soil, it is hardly
necessary to say anything regarding it, for they will do in almost
any good stuff; but mine are potted in two parts lcam, one part
rather rotten dung, with the addition of a little leaf-soil and sand.
I reduce them in the spring of every other year, to keep them to a
serviceable size, to effect which it is necessary to pull them to pieces,
and I find they do not bloom so freely that year as the following;
therefore it is best to do a part one year, and part the next. I would
suggest that they be allowed plenty of root-room, or they will take
it for themselves, by bursting the pots into countless pieces.

Mr. Larne, of Standstead and Rutland Park Nurseries, Forest Hill, was
awarded two large silver medals for two collections of new golden bronze-leaved
pelargoniums at the International Exhibition, Cologne.

Brussers InrerNaTIonaAL Horticunrurat Exursition—The Honorary
Presidency of the London Committee of the Brussels International Exhibition and
Congress was some time since accepted by the Prince of Wales. Great efforts will
be made to make both the Exhibition and Congress of the utmost practical service,
more particularly by the discussion at the latter, by representatives of all nations,
of the important subjects comprised in the Exhibition programme.

November,

346 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR NOVEMBER.

Enz, in the northern gale,
The summer tresses of the trees are gone,
The woods of autumn, all around our vale,
Have put their glory on,

The mountains that infold
In their wide sweep the colour’d landscape round,
Seem groups of giant kings in purple and gold,
That guard the enchanted ground.
I roam the woods that crown
The upland, where the mingled splendours glow,
Where the gay company of trees look down
On the green fields below.

My steps are not alone
In these bright walks ; the sweet south-west, at play, te
Flies, rustling, where the painted leaves are strown ;
Along the winding way.

And far in heaven, the while,
The sun that sends the gale to wander here
Pours out on the fair earth his quiet smile—
The sweetest of the year,

O autumn! why so soon
Depart the hues that make thy forests glad ;
Thy gentle wind and thy fair, sunny noon,
And leave thee wild and sad ?
Woxrpsworts.
a LPINES suffer more from wet than frost; choice kinds had best be
4 potted and put in frames, as during January there is usually much
hayoe committed among alpines on rockeries.

ARTICHOKES to be dressed for the winter by removing any late
heads, the stalks of which can be inserted in a bed of earth under cover
till wanted ; next remove the large leaves, and mould up the plants without throw-
ing any soil into the centre.

«ASPARAGUS may be forced by the roughest of methods when there are plenty of
leaves and large deep pits. Make up a foreing-bed, on a plot of spare ground, by
means of a few boards to form the boundary of the pit, or turf walls where turf is
plentiful. Five or six feet of leaves, without dung, will do very well, and when
the roots are planted, rough boards put aslope to carry off rain and snow may be
used to cover in lieu of glass frames. During hard weather any amount of dry
litter may be heaped over, and a supply of this delicious vegetable be had for the
mere cost of the roots in the first instance. Asparagus should have air and light
when the shoots appear, as it is valueless unless the tops have two inches or so of
green growth.

AvricuLas, CARNATIONS, PicorpEs, and PansiEs 1n rots to have air frequently,
to prevent mildew; slight frosts will not hurt them so much as a confined and
damp air.

CAMELLIAS DROPPING THEIR BUDS are the subject of frequent complaint at this
time of year. We have frequently advised the use of liberal waterings after the
buds are set and the wood as hard as necessary ; and we can only repeat, that in
the majority of cases the buds drop because the roots are dry.

CucumBeErs to be kept safe as to bottom-heat, or they will begin now to drop
their fruit, or to show canker at the collar. Be prompt, therefore, to renew the
linings, if needful, where fermenting material is used. Recently-collected leaves
will, with the help of manure once turned, yield a very steady heat, and the better
in large masses.

Enrcas of the winter-blooming kinds are to be kept as well aired and as hardy
as possible. When requiring water, give the 100ts a. good soaking, choosing bright
mild weather for it, if possible, and repeat the watering next day, if any doubt
whether the ball nas been moistened through, After this let them go nearly dry
again, but never beyond a certain point of dryness, or the ball will get hard. The
general stock of Cape heaths will bear afew degrees of frost without harm, if kept
well aired at all favourable opportunities. What is most likely to injure them is a

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 347

dry fire-heat, and a too dry state of the roots. But they will want very little
water at this time of year, and should have no encouragement to grow.

Forcrne or Frowers to be commenoed now. First clean the glass, to make
sure of the utmost possible amount of light; then get together the fermenting
materials—leaves and sweet dung chiefly—and over this lay six inches of tan or
spent hops to plunge the pots in. Put in nothing but what has been prepared for
the work, and has ripe wood and well-formed flower-buds. Azaleas, Camellias,
Gardenias, Roses, hybrid Rhododendrons, double Plums and Peaches, double
Cherry, Weigelias, Tree Peonies, Chimonanthus fragrans, Rhododendron ciliatum,
Cytissus Atleeana, Kalmias, Andromeda floribunda, Daphnes, and Jasminium
nudiflorum, are all cheap and easy subjects to force, and all beautiful in their
season.

Frozen Puants.—The amateur must always bear in mind that plants kept dry
and well aired can endure two or three degrees more frost than plants of the same
kind in a more damp condition. As with the best precautions valuable plants will
sometimes get wholly or partially frozen, a word of advice now may be useful all
the winter through. To recover frozen plants, the safest procedure is to keep them
in the dark till they thaw, and to let the thawing take place slowly. A dry, still
air is also essential ; a frozen plant placed in a draught, in the sunshine, or in
undue warmth, even if in darkness, will probably go to a pulp as soon as it is
completely thawed ; but if thawed slowly in dark and stillness, will recover, if the
freezing has been only to a moderate degree.

GrEENHOUSE.—At every opportunity remove dead leaves, trim away dead
snags or mildewed shoots, give water if needful, and see that the drainage of the
pots is safe, Use tepid water to all plants in a growing state, and as little as pos-
sible to everything.

Hers should be taken up and potted, in case of severe weather. Parsley and
mint are generally scarce in February, because there is no care taken in time to
secure supplies. Large roots of parsley potted now will keep green and fresh till
wanted. ‘The roots of mint should be potted in leaf-mould, and the plants plunged
in an asparagus bed, or placed on a flue to force it gently. Parsley may also be
protected on the ground by means of hooped mats and litter,

Hyactntus that have filled their pots with roots may now be pushed on by
placing them over a moderate bottom-heat. In the early vinery the dung-bed will
answer admirably, as the vapour will give the foliage a green, rich healthy hue,
and the flowers will come in fine spikes.

Kircuen Garpen.—The most excellent results may be insured by deeply
trenching the soil, and laying it up in ridges, to be fully exposed to the weather.
Many really bad soils become good soils when broken up deeply and mixed with a
portion of the subsoil, even though that subsoil may be by itself as bad as the other.

RasPserpizs to have the old canes cut away, the new canes thinned to three or
four of the strongest to each stool, and a good mulch of half-rotten dung laid down
over their roots.

Rosgs are frequently left in “by the heels’ fer weeks together at this time of
year. It is very bad practice; the frost is sure to get to their roots; and in the
event of mild and moist weather they are sure to throw out fresh roots, and those
fresh roots are sure to be destroyed when they are removed to be properly planted.
Therefore plant at once, head them up firm, and stake securely.

SEAKALE may be planted now in well-prepared ground in well-drained positions.
The ground must be deeply trenched and liberally manured, and the manure tho-
roughly incorporated with the soil. Begin forcing now by first covering the stools
with conical mounds of sand or coal-ashes (not leaves, which spoil the flavour).
Place the seakale pots over as many stools as are to be started now, and fill the
spaces between and over the pots with a mixture of stable dung that has been once
turned, with leaves, straw, and other litter, beating it firm as you proceed, and
leaving the whole smooth and tidy nine inches above the top of the pots.

Succutrenr Piants must now be arranged in their winter quarters. In a
mixed collection, the best place for them is a top shelf in the full light, and where
they are not likely to suffer by drip.

November.

348 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

Se}HE INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION OF POTATOES held at the
af Alexandra Palace, on September 30 and 31, proved an unquatified suc-
cess. In extent and excellency it exceeded the anuticipations of the
most sanguine of its promoters, for every prize offered in the schedule
was warmly contested, and the productions were throughout of a high
order of merit. In allthe classes the ontries were most numerous, and in the more
important of the smaller classes they ranged from twenty to thirty in each class,
and in some of the classes for single dishes there were upwards of forty entries, Al-
together the appearance of this vast array of potatoes was far more attractive than
might have been expected, for the various collections were tastefully set up, and, to
relieve the flatness inseparable from an exhibition of this kind, medium-sized foliage
and flowering plants were placed in lines down the centre of the tables. All the
more popular sorts were, as a matter of course, strongly represented, and in addition
the visitors had an opportunity of becoming acquainted with varieties that do not
often make their appearance upon the exhibition table. In the great class for
twenty-four varieties, in which a silver cup of the value of £10 and £8 in money
were offered as the first prize, the entries were numerous, and the oollections all
more or less good. The first prize was awarded to Mr. Richard Dean, of Ealing,
for one of the finest collections of potatoes ever staged. The tubers were all of
medium size, very even in outline, and altogether of the best possible quality. The
round varieties represented in the collection were Willard, Fenn’s Early Market,
a medium-sized tuber of splendid quality for a first early; Rector of Woodstock,
Princess Louise, Brownell’s Beauty, Barron’s Perfection, Onwards, Early Dimmisk,
Red Emperor, Model, Blanchard, English Rose; and of kidneys, Wonderful Red,
Prince of Teck, Snowflake, Extra Early Vermont, Bresee’s Prolific, Fenn’s Inter-
national Kidney, a very handsome cylindrical txber of rather large size; Salmon
Kidney, Sutton’s Lady Abbess, also extremely handsome; Cobbler’s Lapstone,
Mona’s Pride, and Early Oneida. Mr. James Pink, gardener to Lord Sondes, Lees
Court, Faversham, was second in the same class, and had a splendid collection.
Mr. Shirley Hibberd had a fine collection of fifty varieties, to show the advantages
resulting from the adoption of the ridge system on heavy clay soils, as explained
in these pages on more than one occasion.

Tue Royat Horricunturay Socrery’s Exurrition or Funet, Cones, ET¢.,
on Wednesday, Octcber 6, was a thin dreary affair, sufficiently extensive to indicate
that a show was intended, and sufficiently small to prove that the fungi fancy is
worn out, and has no real hold on public sympathies. A few novelties were shown
in the Council Room, and there were large cullections of apples from Messrs. W.
Paul and Son, of Waltham Cross, and Mr. Dancer, of Fulham. Amongst the few
fungi shown were some iateresting species from Mr. James English, of Epping ;
Mr. Burnett, gardener to Mrs. Hope, the Deepdene, Dorking; and Mr. Beech,
Castle Ashby. A pretty collection of cones, with the accompanying foliage, was
shown by the Hon. and Rev. G@. T. Boscawen, the majority of them grown at La-
morran, Cornwall. Mr. Smith, of Worcester, sent samples of an extremely band-
some dessert apple, named Worcester Pearmain which is characterized by its bril-
liant crimson colour. It is of medium size, roundish conical, with closed eye; the
flesh is white and tender and well flavoured. Mr. William Paul sent a seedling
apple called Beauty of Waltham, in the way of Blenheim. Mr. R. Harvey, of
Bury St. Edmunds, sent a nice dessert apple called St. Edmund’s Pippin ; it is
medium sized, conical, with russety skin; the flavour is that of the Golden Russet.
Amongst the plants there was a fine group of Celosias from Mr. Wills: a splendid
Renanthera coccinea with fifty flowers, from Messrs. Veitch and Sons; and a splen-
did double scarlet Zonal from Mr. George Smith, of Tollington Nursery, Hornsey
Road. Itisa sport from Vesuvius, and one of the best plants of its class at our
command,

Tue R, H. §. Exursrrions, 1876, have been increased by the addition of a
show in May. The following are the dates in the revised schedule; March 16,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 349

May 3, June 7 and 8, July 19 and 20, November 15. The May, June, and July
exhibitiuns will be held in the great tent.

Tae Cuiswick Trtat Gr Ontons has proved completely successful, and the
results will be of especial service to the seed trade. Over a hundred named kinds
Were grown, and careful comparison has reduced them to less than ascore. In
this respect it is a repetition of the celery trial. Tue following prove to be dis-
tinct: Danver’s Yellow, Yellow Globe, Silver-Skin, White Spanish, Blood Red,
White Tripoli, Red Tripoli, and James’s Pear-shaped.

Messrs. Stuart AND Mem, of Kelso, have favoured us with samples of Chilian
beet, notable for immense variety and richness of colour. Although the gigantic
size of this beet limits its use to gardens of a certain class, its colours have no
parallel, and the samples from Kelso are the richest we have seen, The broad leaf
stalks are in some instances of a clear ivory-white, in others intense orange, and
thence pass through all shades of red, carmine, and crimson, the glossy surface con-
siderably augmenting the effect.

Messrs. JAMES CarTER AND Co. have been awarded by the jurors of the
Cologne Exhibition a silver medal for the excellency of their grass seeds supplied
to the Committee-General for laying down a portion of the Exhibition grounds,

M. Eveene VERprer’s Seedling Roses constitute an important feature in his
horticultural undertakings, as he flowers on an average 30,000 every year.

Tue Royat Aquarium at WeEsTMINSTER is rapidly approaching completion,
and bids fair to prove the grandest thing in the aquarium way ever attempted. It
is a great undertaking, and an immense amount of talent has been brought to bear
upon it by the combined energies of architects, engineers, and naturalists, all of
them being well backed up by spirited business men commanding an ample capital.
It will be, in its way, a macrocosm of inventions. The glass roof is being fixed by
Mr. Rendle, and admirably represents his patent process, while the glass employed
has been toughened by De la Bastie’s process. The show tanks, 31 in number, two
of which contain 40,000 gallons of water each, will require 2000 square feet of
glass one inch thick, and 500 feet half an inch thick, all of which will be similarly
toughened. Hverywhere the utmost precautions are taken to prevent contamina-
tion of the water by contact with metals or cements—vulcanite, asphalte, slate, and
stone being chiefly used for aqueducts and holders, both of fresh and salt water,
while every pipe is accessible on all sides, so that, in case of leakage, repairs may
be accomplished withsut difficulty. The beautiful new building in Tothill Street,
Westminster, will not only contain aquaria, and present a marvellous exhibition of
marine and river life, but it will combine the attractions of a winter garden, a pic-
ture gallery, and a concert room, and there will be added the occasional excitement
of a flower show.

Ficus REPENS, a charming plant, so generally employed for covering walls of
plant stoves, appears to be much hardier than is supposed to be the case. A writer
in the Monatschrift (Berlin) records a proof of its atitcan, Having occasion, he
says, to pass through Mingrelia in the autumn of 1873, he visited the ruins of a fine
garden at Sugdidi, which was overrun by Omar Pasha in 1853. Among other re-
markable things were the north and end walks of what had been a magnificent
orangery. These were literally covered with a Juxuriant profusion of climbing
roses, wisteria, rubus, tecoma, passiflora, etc.: but most noteworthy was a large
mass of Ficus repens. In the gardens around dablias were cut to the ground, and
the tips of the shoots of tea roses were already nipped by frost, but the Ficus was
unscathed, and had resisted the cold of twenty winters. Although Sugdidi is
favourably situated, the writer estimates that the thermometer must fall at least as
low as 14° Fahr. This pretty creeper would therefore succeed in the warmer parts
of the United Kingdom, and may probably be flourishing out-of-doors in some
places at the present time,

Agave VicrortA Kectv«.—A splendid new species shown by M. L. de Smet
at Cologne, and which gained a gold medal there, has passed into the hands of Mr.
Peacock, who is exhibiting one of the plants at the Alexandra Palace. It is one of
the most distinct Agaves in cultivation, having triangular leaves, marked with
white on the margins, and devoid of spines, excepting one black curved one on the
top of the leaves.

Minrature AppLe OrcHARDS.—The advantage of the new style of planting
pyramid and bush trees over the old method of wholly planting standard trees, finds

November-

350 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

(remarks the Gardener’s Chronicle of October 2) excellent illustration in Mr.
Francis Dancer’s market garden grounds at Little Sutton. One large portion is
planted with lines of bush trees of Small’s Admirable Apple, the trees eight feet
apart each way, and they are literally borne down to the ground with the great
weight of the fruit they are now bearing. Pyramidal trees of Cox’s Orange Pippin
Apple, planted in close lines, are found bearing heavy crops of beautiful fruit, large
in size, and brilliantly coloured. On instituting a comparison between these and
the large standard trees planted years ago, it is found that the latter require large
spaces of growth, that their crops are not over numerous or particularly fine, and
that they interfere with the circulation of air among and the fall of light on the
smaller trees about them. The space occupied by one standard tree would be
equal to that occupied by six or mcre of the bush trees, while the roots must have
spread in all directions in the soil beneath. Gathering becomes an easier and
quicker process ; ladders are not required, and the handling of ladders among trees
sometimes does them injury. Not one of the least of the considerations to be put
forward in favour of bush over standard trees is that of a finer quality of fruit being
obtained. =

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

GreenHousr Manacemrent.—Z.—The greenhouse plants will not require much
water during this and the two succeeding months, but they must have sufficient to
prevent their suffering from drought. Whenever any of the plants are watered,
the supply must be sufficient to well moisten the ball of soil, and then no more
must be applied until the soil has become rather dry again. If the water is applied
in driblets at this or any other season of the year, the surface of the ball will alone
be moistened, and the lower part will become dust-dry, tothe injury of the roots.
It is very important to water the plants early in the morning during the winter
season, so that all superfluous moisture may dry up before the evening. A bright
day should as far as practicable be taken advantage of, so that the ventilators can
be opened for a few hours afterwards. If during a period of dull weather the foli-
age of the plants appears to be suffering from dampness, make up a rather brisk
fire in the morning, about ten o’clock, and let it burn briskly for about two hours,
and at the same time open the top ventilators, to insure a thorough change of the
atmosphere. In frosty weather the fire must not be driven too hard, fora high tem-
perature in frosty weather is most injurious to greenhouse plants. It is important
to remove decaying leaves without delay.

Prantine Grave Vinus.—R. H.—Previous to planting the out-door vines,
trench the ground to a depth of two feet, and add a few inches of maiden loam if
practicable, or, if the soil is naturally poor, a dressing of half-rotten stable manure
well mixed with the soil will be beneticial to the vines. Plant any time between
now and the beginning of March. Black Cluster and Royal Muscadines are the
best kinds for the open wall. The Black Hamburgh would not ripen its fruit in
ordinary seasons. The indoor vines should be planted at once, and cut back to
within three or four inches of the soil, and in succeeding years prune on the spur
system. The vines planted out must not be fruited next year, or they will be
ruined. If you have any to spare, leave them in the pots, cut back to about eight
feet from the soil, and let them fruit in the pots.

Scarzporoven Liny.—Z. G.—Like yourself, many cultivators fail in cultivat-
ing Vallota purpurea, commonly known as the Scarborough Lily, satisfactorily, be-
cause they withhold the water altogether in the winter, and keep the soil dust-dry
for several months. The plants, of course, require less water during the resting
season than when they are in full growth; but if the soil is kept quite dry during
that season, the fleshy routs are dried up and paralysed, and consequently unuble to
start into action when the new growth has to be made in the following spring.
Immediately the plants start into growth in the spring, a portion of the old soil
should be shaken from the roots, and the plants potted in entirely fresh stuff.
Supply liberally with water throughout the growing season, and in the autumn, in
withholding the supply, do so in a gradual manner, to prevent the foliage and roots

‘THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 351

shrivelling. The Vallota is an evergreen ; therefore, to compel it to shed its leaves
is the reverse of good treatment, and cannot be done without inflicting a terrible
injury upon it.

Winter ManaGeMEent OF Preacu AnD Nectarrve Trers.— Amateur Fruit-
Grower.—The peach and nectarine trees ought not to be pruned and nailed in
until the early part of next spring. The branches should, however, be unnailed at
once, tied in bundles, and be either fastened to the wall or secured to stakes at a
distance of a foot or so from it. The great value and importance of unnailing
these trees is not well understood, or the system would be more generally adopted.
Tt should be borne in mind that the greatest enemy the trees have to contend with
is spring frost. Therefore, the more we can retard the expansion of the flowers, the
less likelihood will there be of their being injured. That unnailing the branches
and fastening them at a sbort distance from the wall does retard the flowers, there
ean be no doubt; and a moment’s thought will show us that branches of trees at a
few inches from the wall will not be influenced so much by a few hours’ bright sun-
shine during the winter months as others fastened close to it. The branches are
not only much warmer during the time they are under the influence of the sun, but
they are exposed to the heat which is absorbed by the wall, and then given off as
the atmosphere cools. It simply amounts to this, that the cooler the branches are
kept, the longer the flowers are before opening, and, as every week makes a differ-
ence in the severity of the weather, the less likelihood is there of their being injured
by frost. Where labour is scarce, and as there is always more work to be done in
the spring than time can be spared to do properly, the trees may be pruned and
dressed at once, and then fastened loosely to the wall, as sugsested above. Very
little can be said about pruning peach and nectarine trees beyond what is already
known; therefore it is only necessary to suggest that all weak and badly-ripened
shoots should be removed altogether, or be cut back to one or two eyes. It isa
very common practice to cut very strong-growing shoots back to two or three buds,
which, instead of mending matters, only makes them worse, by encouraging the
production of wood of even greater vigour. Strong shoots should be laid in nearly
their whole length, or be removed altogether. Thin out the wood, to allow of plenty
of room for the young shoots next season, and, as far as practicable, leaye only that
which is thoroughly well ripened. Abstain from encouraging spurs on peach and
nectarine trees, because, if a good crop of fruit cannot be had from trees the wood
of which is trained in the old-fashioned way, it is very certain that it cannot be
had from trees treated on the spur system.

Lisonra FLORIBUNDA.— G@. H. §.—This beautiful free-flowering greenhouse
plant is by no means new, yet it is not very extensively cultivated. It partakes
somewhat of the character of that once-popular plant, Cuphea platycentra, for both
the habit of plant and shape of flowers are similar. Its numerous flowers are diffused
over the whole of the plant, which at this period of the year gives it a very striking
and pleasing effect, if intermixed with cther flowering plants. It is very easy to
propagate and grow. Cuttings of the young wood should be inserted early in the
spring, and treated in the same way as you would the ordinary kinds of soft-
wooded plants, the pot being plunged in a nice bottom-heat. The plant, being
very compact and short-jointed, does not need after it is potted to be so frequently
stopped; the main point is to get the lower part of the plant well furnished with
branches in its first growth. It is in the earlier stages only that the stopping of
shoots is essential. It will thrive in good rich loamy soil, and may stand out of
doors with the majority of greenhouse plants during the summer months. In
commor with many other winter flowering plants (as for example, the Poinsettia), the
Libonia loses its leaves if kept too cold in October and November. The leaves may
not fall at the time, but afterwards, when the plant is in flower, it will be found
that many of the leaves are dead. Excess of damp, or too low a temperature in
winter, will very much mar the beauty of this useful plant.

Prantine Fruir Trees.—dmateur.—Planting fruit-trees ought to be com-
pleted by the end of November. The trees ought not to be planted when the
ground is frozen, because the surface-soil which has been well pulverized by the
action of the weather is the best for filling in about the roots, Besides, it is not
desirable to cool the earth by means of frozen soil, which in all probability will not
be thoroughly thawed before the spring, when the roots ought to be in full activity.
If the trees come to hand just as a frost has set in, place them in an outhouse

November.

352 WHE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

or shed, and put a few mats about the roots to prevent their being injured by
drought or frost. It is also a very good plan, especially in dealing with a large
number of trees where the accommodation is limited, to select a sheltered corner in
the open air, and remove the soil as deep as it is frozen; then lay the trees in by
the heels, and heap snfficient dry litter or leaves over the roots for protection; and
as dry material is a more efficient protector than wet, lay a few boards or a bit of
tarpaulin over it to keep it dry. It is also bad practice to plant when the soil is
in a pasty condition, either from heavy rains or recent frosts, If it is not con-
venient to wait until the earth is sufficiently dry before planting, prepare a few
barrowfuls of light, dry soil, such as the sweepings of the potting-bench, aatfilsce
a few shovelfuls immediately over the roots; then tread the soil in just firm
enongh to keep the tree steady with the aid of a stout stake, and leave the finishing
off until the soil is in a better condition. It is very objectionable to tread the soil
about the roots of fruit or any other class of trees when wet, because it makes it so
firm and pasty that they are unabie to penetrate it, and the growth made the first
season is weak in consequence.

T. P. P.—A portion of the shoots should be nailed in, and the others pruned
back to within one or two buds of the base. The pruning and training should be
done just before the plant commences to make new growth in the spring. The
shoots ought not to be nailed in too close to the wall.

Mrs. G., Ripon.—It is a common occurrence for the flowers of some varieties
to become malformed in a similar manner to those sent.

EXHIBITIONS TO BE HELD IN NOVEMBER.

10 anv 11.—Royat Horrticutturat Society.—Evhibition of Chrysanthemums
and Fruit.

10 anv 11,—Bristor CurysANTHEMUM Society.—Annual Exhibition.

10 To 12.—NortTH-WEsTERN AMATEUR CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY.—Annual
Evhibition,

13.—ALEXANDRA Patace, MuswELL H11u.—Ecvhibition of Chrysanthemums by
W. Cutbush and Son.

13.—Eautne District CorySANTHEMUM Soctety.—Annual Exhibition.

16.—Kixe’s Roor Suow at Great Coggeshall, Essex.

16 anv 17.—BoroucH oF Hackney CHRYSANTHEMUM Socretr. — Annual
Exhibition.

16 ro 18.—CrystaL Patace.—Exhibition of Poultry.

17.—Ponrterract HorticvtturaL Socirrty.— Annual Exhibition.

18 anp 19.—Carter’s Root Suow at the Agricultural Hall, Islington.

18 anD 19.—Bury Sr. Epmunps Horticutturat Socrety.—Annual Exhi-
bition.

18 ro 20.—Wootwicu CHRYSANTHEMUM AssocIATION.— Annual Exhibition.

19.—Wesp’s Root Suow at Wordsley, Stourbridge.

20.—Sutton’s Royat Berks Root Suow at Reading.

23 anD 24.—BrixTon AND SrreaTHaM HorticutruraL Scocrety.—Anaual
Exhibition.

25.—Royat AcricuLtturaz Society or [rErAND.—Private Winter Exhibition.

27,—CueeTHamM Hitt Horricutturar Sociery.—Annual Exhibition.

Le; 3 ; at :

=~ Vie
SS eal

i

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 350

THE PANDANUS AND ITS KINDRED.
BY GEORGE GORDON.
(With Coloured Illustration of a group of Pandanus in Eastern Africa.)

= LE Pandanads, or Screw Pines, comprise a genus of plants
faq, alike remarkable for nobility of aspect, elegance of out-
line, and economic value. In the latter respect they are
not surpassed by many other forms of tropical vegetation,
for owing to the peculiar formation of the roots, they
are especially adapted for binding sandbanks where hardly any other
plants are able to obtain a foot-hold. The fruits, or drupes, are
available as an article of food in times of scarcity. The leaves and
the fibrous matter obtained from them are employed in the manu-
facture of ropes, nets, and matting of various descriptions; and
with the fibres obtained from the aérial roots, hats, baskets, mats,
ete., are made by the natives of the countries to which the pandanads
are indigenous.

As decorative plants, they deservedly stand high in the esti-
mation of English cultivators, for there are but few plant stoves in
which examples of one or more of the species are not found, and ie

the most ornamental kinds make their appearance annually at #]
principal exhibitions, in conjunction with other plants remarkable
for the beauty of their foliage.

There is a remarkably fine collection of Screw Pines at Kew, and
many of the specimens are of immense proportions as compared
with those usually met with under cultivation; but even these fail
to convey an adequate idea of the striking effect produced by
huge groups in their native habitats. It is, therefore, anticipated
that the coloured illustration of a natural group of Pandanus in
tropical Africa would be especially interesting to our readers. The
illustration is a copy of a painting by T. Baines, Esq., in the Kew
Museum. The locality where the sketch was taken is thus described
by Mr. Baines :—“ Some miles from the mouth of the Zambesi, as
the mangroves (which have performed their office in converting the
accumulating shoals into land capable of bearing a superior vege-
tation) begin to be supplanted by other trees, the most striking
feature in the landscape is the tall Pandanus, which towers above
the brush that skirts the various channels of the delta, and in the
distance, especialiy when thickly draped with creeping plants, pre-
sents the appearance sometimes of poplar groves, and sometimes of
village spires ; it seems to begin where the mangrove—.e., the kind
which forms the advanced guard in reclaiming the land from the
sea—begins to cease, and where palms of various kinds—dwarf fan
palm, wild date, Doum palm, zamias, a kind of Strychnos, bearing
an orange-shaped fruit, large flowering Hibiscus, and occasional
cocoa-nuts—begins. Some of these channels are so narrow, that in
passing through, the vessel would brush the reeds on both sides,
while the main streams would be several hundred yards in width.
The specimens shown in the sketch were situate in a perfect tangle

~ December, 23

354 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

of old mangroves, with their aérial roots and luxurious vegetation
overgrowing them, so as to conceal and render more precarious the
treacherous footway over which we have to pick our way. ‘The tree
was covered with convolvulus, and was exceedingly beautiful. This
was within the tidal influence, and the stream would be brackish at
high water, or fresh when the volume of the river was sufficient to
overpower the tide. These Pandani did not appear to extend far
beyond where the river ceased to be brackish.”

The species represented on the left hand side of the plate is Pan-
danus candelabrum, one of the largest growing and most striking of
the genus. The branches spread out all round the trunk, and
depend in a graceful manner, and the ends which are furnished with
a tuft of elegant green leafage turned upwards, giving the trees a
very distinct and beautiful appearance.

Although not so beautiful as some others, P. odoratissimus i3
one of the most important species from an economic point of view.
In an able paper on the “ Screw Pines and their Allies,” contributed
to the “ Student” (page 1), for 1868, Mr. J. R. Jackson, Curator of
the Kew Museum, refers to this species as follows :—“ It grows in
the Islands of the Pacific Ocean, China, and the East Indies, being
common along the banks of the canals and back-waters of Travan-
core, where it is planted for the purpose of binding the soil. The
long leaves are full of tough fibres, which are used for making
cordage of various thicknesses, as well as for making hunting-nets,
and the drag-ropes of fishing-nets. Matting of all descriptions is
likewise made from them. Some of the sleeping-mats, which are
dyed or stained various colours, are fine specimens of native plaiting.
The leaves are likewise used to make umbrellas, and they are said to
furnish an excellent material for paper-making. The fibre from the
leaves is commonly used in Tinnivelly, when mixed with fax, for
making ropes. The aérial roots are applied to a variety of purposes
in India. Manufactories exist in some localities where hats, baskets,
mats, etc., are made from them. On account of their light, spongy
nature, they make excellent stoppers for bottles in lieu of cork, and
the more fibrous part, when beaten out and the pulp removed, is
used for brushes for whitewashing, painting, ete. The roots are
used medicinally by the native practitioners, and an oil prepared
from them has the repute of being a cure for rheumatism. The
flowers are odoriferous, as the specific name indicates. Besides the
numerous uses already mentioned, the inner or pulpy part of the
drupes is eaten as an article of food in times of scarcity. In some
parts of North Australia, indeed, the fleshy drupes of the Pandani
are commonly eaten, being held in the mouth and sucked until the
fleshy portion is consumed. In the Society Islands the women ”
make very beautiful mats of the leaves, which are first prepared by
burying them in the sand near the sea for about a month; this
makes them soft, they are then carefully scraped with a shell which
removes all irregularities, leaving that portion of the leaf intended
for use fine and soft ; the more care exercised in this preparation the
finer and softer are the mats. After being thus prepared, the leaves
cre drawn across the edge of a shell previously notched or toothed

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 355

at regular intervals, by which means they are divided into long
narrow strips of equal width, and are ready for plaiting.”

One of the best known, in this country, of the strong-
growing green-leaved forms is P. utilis, a very handsome species,
grown largely for exhibition. The leaves are of a rich glaucous
green, with fine deep red margins, which, as well as the back of the
midrib, are armed with dark red spines. They are rather broad,
and range from six to eight feet in length, according to the strength
-of the specimen. Young plants have slightly pendulous foliage,
and are well suited for decorative purposes generally. Ata more
advanced stage they make grand exhibition specimens.

The sacks and bags in which sugar is exported from the Mauritius,
where the plant is very common, are manufactured from its leaves. It
is, indeed, so valuable for bag-making, that it is cultivated extensively
at the Mauritius for the sake of its leaves. In speaking of this
Pandanad, the late Rev. W. Ellis, in his “Three Visits to Mada-
gascar,” says:—‘“‘ The Pandanus exhibits a form of growth peculiar
to the vegetation of the sea-shore in many tropical regions. It
thrives well in pure sand near the water’s edge. It is also an
exceedingly useful tree. The trunk is durable, and is employed in
the structure and fitting of native canoes. The leaves in the South
Sea Islands make excellent thatch, and the fruit or nuts are baked
and the kernels eaten. In Madagascar the leaves are used chiefly
for covering packages to exclude rain during transit from the coast
‘to the interior. It is extensively cultivated in Mauritius, and its
leaves used for making bags, large quantities of which are brought
from the Seychelle Islands, and all the sugar produced in Mauritius
is exported in bags made from the leaves of this singularly growing
but useful tree.”

In referring to other species met with in Madagascar, Mr. Ellis
observes:—“I had seen nothing either in the Mauritius or
Polynesia resembling them, especially one kind seldom attaining
above ten or twelve feet in height, having a number of leaves
in the centre of the crown, apparently glued or stuck together
at their extremities, giving to the centre, or crown, a singular .
form ; while the disentangled leaves that stretched out horizontally
or hung down parallel with the stem, seemed very much like the
leaves with which the Chinese line their tea-chests. Another
species of Pandanus was to me equally new and remarkable. The
stem of this was straight as that of a fir-tree, and the branches
horizontal with feathery tips of flag or short ribbon-formed leaves.
‘The tree was frequently forty or fifty-feet high, erowned with an
upright plume, and at a distance might have been mistaken for a
larch, but for its stiff and formal growth. I did not see it near
the shore, but amongst the low wet places inkand.”

The Freycinetia, Cyclanthus, Marquartia, and Oarludovica are
closely allied to the Pandanus, but they are all of less importance,
both as regards their decorative and economic value. One of the
species of Carludovica, namely, OC. palmata, possesses some amount
of interest, for from its leaves the celebrated Panama hats are made.
The best account of this plant is that from the pen of the late Dr.

December.

356 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Berthold Seemann, who did so much in familiarizing us with the

vegetation of South America. Dr. Seemann remarks :—“ The leaves

are from six to fourteen feet high, and their lamina about four feet

across. In the Isthmus, the plant is called Portorico, and also.

Jipijapa, but the latter appellation is most common, and is diffused

all along the coast as far as Peru and Chili; while in Ecuador a whole .
district derives its name fromit. The Jipijapa, or Panama hats, are

principally manufactured in Veraguas and Western Panama. The

hats are worn almost in the whole American continent and the West

Indies, and would probably be equally used in Europe, did not their

high price, varying frem two to one hundred and fifty dollars, prevent

their importation. They are distinguished from all others by con-

sisting only of a single piece, and by their lightness and flexibility.

They may be rolled up and put into the pocket without injury. In

the rainy season they are apt to get black, but by washing them

with soap and water, besmearing them with lime-juice or any other

acid, and exposing them to the sun, their whiteness is easily restored.
So little is known about these hats, that it may not be deemed out

of place to insert here a notice of their manufacture. The ‘ straw,’

previous to plaiting, has to go through several processes. The

leaves are gathered before they unfold, all their ribs and coarser
veins removed, and the rest, without being separated from the base

of the leaf, is reduced to shreds. After having been put in the sun

for a day, and tied into a knot, the straw is immersed in boiling

water until it becomes white. It is then hung up in a shady place,
and subsequently bleached for two or three days. The straw is now

ready for use, and in this state sent to different places, especially, to

Peru, where the Indians manufacture from it those beautiful cigar

cases, which fetch sometimes more than six pounds a-piece. The

plaiting of the hats is very troublesome. It commences at the

crown, and finishes at the brim. They are made on a block, which

is placed upon the knees, and requires to be constantly pressed with

the breast. According to their quality, more or less time is occupied
in their completion; the coarser ones may be finished in two or

three days, the finest take as many months. The best times for
plaiting are the morning hours and the rainy season, when the air is

moist; in the middle of the day and in dry, clear weather, the straw

is apt to break, which, when the hat is finished, is betrayed by knots,

and much diminishes the value.”

It now remains to be said that the Pandanads require for their
successful cultivation a stove temperature, and a compost consisting
of three parts each of turfy loam and peat, and one part of sharp
silver sand. The compost prepared for the variegated-leaved kinds
should contain a much larger proportion of sand, and about a fifth
part of small crocks should also be added. Moderately copious.
supplies of water at the roots at all times, and, during the summer
season, a moderate amount of atmospheric humidity are conducive
to a healthy growth. They are readily increased by means of the
side-shoots, usually produced in abundance at the base of the stem,
and these can be readily removed; when detached put them singly
into small pots, and apply water sparingly until they are nicely

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 357

established. The plants in all stages of growth should be Kept in
pots, rather small in proportion to their size.

The best kinds for general cultivation are—

P. elegantissimus, a beautiful green-leaved species, in the way ot
P. utilis, but smaller and more elegant in outline. Valuable in a
small state for dinner-table decorations.

P. ornatus, a large-growing species ; useful for spacious houses
and exhibition specimens.

P. graminifolius is a pretty species, of very small growth, with
elegant grass-green leafage; small specimens are specially adapted
for drawing-room decoration during the summer.

P. Veitchi is the most beautiful of all the kinds in cultivation ;
the leaves are broad, elegantly recurved, and richly marked with
longitudinal lines of silvery white. It is far superior in attractive-
ness to P. Javanicus variegatus, and the spines on the leaves are so
small that they occasion no inconvenience when the plant is handled,
whilst the spines of the last mentioned are so large that they lacerate
the hands terribly, unless the greatest care is exercised.

POT-CULTURE OF THE WATERCRESS.

SSA EVEN years ago, I came into possession of a brook

“| suitable for the growth of watercresses. It passes
through two of my gardens, and then pursues its way
across a meadow, affording me command of about a
quarter of a mile run of open water. I made it an
amusement to obtain as many distinct varieties as possible of water-
cresses, a few by means of seeds, but mostly in the shape of plants
from localities famed for distinct and fine production. These were
allotted separate spaces, and kept separate, so as to form a series of
distinct plantations for purposes of comparison, but the comparisons
made were always unsatisfactory, and many times the plantations
were renewed by means of fresh samples obtained, in many instances,
at considerable trouble. I might have gone on for the rest of my
life obtaining cresses from different districts without ever making
a comparison that was worth recording, or arriving at any con-
clusion, save that which I will now set before you. Every distinct
cress brought here loses its character in the very first new growth
it makes, and acquires another character which is peculiar to the
locality. Thus the beautiful brown cress from S pringhead loses its
brown colour, becomes of a rich dark green, and shows a decided
tinge of purple in the stem. It is the same with all other sorts.
A friend secured me a handsome bronzed cress from Bedford, and
@ very metallic green cress from Grays, and they underwent
precisely the same transformation, coming out the same rich dark
green colour, with the same tinge of purple onthe stems. As names
are useful and the plant acquires here a distinctive character, I
¢all my plant the Stoke Newington Purple Cress; but the name has

December,

358 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

no value, and my purple cress would, no doubt, soon become a brown
cress if transported to Springhead. It follows, however, that a
general and useful deduction may be arrived at from the facts. It
is evident that the special character of a watercress is due to the
special circumstances of its production. The soil, the water, and
the climate influence the growth, and probably the quality of the

edi

WATERCRESS IN DEEP PAN,

water is the most important matter of all. The finest cresses grow
in the purest water, on a chalk bottom. There was, and probably
is, a charming brook of ice-cold water flowing rapidly through the
chalk in the quarries at Grays in Essex. From that brook I have
taken the finest growth of cresses it has ever been my lot to behold.
The samples obtained from loamy soils, near London, have never
equalled in quality such as I have had from the chalk; aad it is

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 359

quite certain that although the plant will grow in sewage-tainted
water, it does not need sewage, but thrives best in pure water,
slightly charged with calcareous matter. I kept this tact m mind
in modelling my new system of watercress culture, and I beg
attention to it as the prettiest fad ever heard of for a gardening

amateur.

WATERCRESS IN SHALLOW PAN,

Having an abundant supply from the brook for the trouble of
gathering, this fad system of production would appear to represent
a waste of time, but it proves far otherwise, for from the day when
I began to supply the table with Erfurt cresses grown in pots, they
have been in constant demand, and have been pronounced the most
delicious cresses, as they certainly are the most elegant in appear-
ance. The Erfurt variety is of a brilliant grass-green colour, the

December.

360 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

stems a shade paler than the leaves; it shows no tint of brown or
bronze, is very reluctant to flower, and is peculiarly tender and
delicately flavoured. Were I to plant it in the brook it would, of
course, lose these distinctive characteristics, and pass into the
purple-stemmed form proper to the locality. One point gained,
then, is that by the pot system I am able to preserve a certain type
of plant that suits me, and that is a matter of no small importance.
A few other advantages attend the system. Fastidious people
who suspect sewage in a brook will not eat the cresses that grow
there. By growing them in pots you can employ any kind of water
you please, and the water used here is that supplied to the house
from the New River. There is a time in the summer when cresses
in open water are wiry, and pungent, and pushing into flower, and
unfit for the table. But you can have poi cresses then as tender as
at any other time ; for you can start a batch of cuttings to insure
a tender growth when established plants would be running up to
flower, and you can put the pots and pans in a cool and partially-
shaded place to moderate the growth. So, again, when the open
water is frozen, and cresses become scarce, you may have a good
supply from a pit or frame by preparing a sufficient number of pots
in time and keeping them in the fullest vigour possible by exposing
them to the free light and air until shelter from frost becomes
absolutely necessary. Thus the pot culture ensures a supply of
cresses all the year round, and if properly managed the quality will
be of the very best.

We now come to the practical part of the business. A fair trial
has been made of many different methods of cultivation, and I have
settled down to a routine that I will now describe. The favourite
pot is one that was made for me scme ten years ago for specimen
fern-culture by Messrs. Adams, of Belle Isle. It measures fifteen
inches across and is nine inches deep. This is half filled with
lumps of chalk, old mortar, and broken bricks of the size of one’s
fist, then a little moss is laid on, and finally a good body of rich soil
is heaped up, and made firm by pressure, so as to have a convex
shape. Very small cuttings of the cress are then dibbled in all over
the soil, about three inches apart, and the pot is then stood in a pan
of water, three or four inches depth of water being sufficient. In
case such pots a3 mine are not available, common fifteen-inch seed
pans answer admirably. These should have a layer of broken chalk
or old mortar, and a good body of rich soil heaped up to a convex
surface, and when planted be placed in pans of water. In hot
weather it is desirable to put the newly-planted pots and pans ina
cool shady place for a few days, but as soon as growth commences
they should be removed into a place where they will be fully
exposed to the sunshine, for a first-class sample cannot be grown
in the shade.

It may occur to you that the rough lumps of chalk and old
mortar may be dispensed with, but you will find, as I have done,
that they are really essential to first-class production. So, again,
it may be suggested that to plunge the pans to the rim, or even
deeper, will be for the advantage of the plant; but here again I

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 361

have found that a better growth is obtained by a depth of three or
four inches than by complete immersion. [I potted up a lot, and
plunged them to various depths in a water trougn made for experi-
ments with water plants, and we got the best growth in every case
from pots that stood in only a few inches of water, and we actually
had to knock out some that were deeply immersed, after obtaining
from them only one small gathering. So interested was I in this
pretty fad that I tried every method I could think of, and actually
grew a fair sample in common punnets filled with moss and floated
in pans of water. The deep pot is better than the shallow pan,
and the soil should be good enough for fuchsias or pot roses;
say cucumber bed, or something of that sort. It matters not how
rough it is, and to mix sand with it is to waste time and material.

A fifceen-inch pot will supply at one cutting half a peck of first-
rate cresses in the height of the growing season. At this time of
year one good pan would yield by careful gathering a quarter of a
peck. Three full gatherings are the utmost you can take from the
pan in the summer, and as soon as the growth becomes wiry it
should be knocked out and replanted. The same hard stuff may be
used again and again, but the soil must be fresh, and the smallest
cuttings make the best growth. The management will of course
vary somewhat with the seasons. If I were planting now for frame
eulture, I should put in rather large, well-rooted pieces, and should
peg them down to promote surface-rooting. In the summer the
growth is so rapid that you may gather in a fortnight from the time
the pots are started, but as the heat declines the growth, of course,
is less rapid. We have a nice lot now that were planted in fifteen-
inch pans on September 18. On October 8 I gathered from them
@ nice dish—a period of twenty-two days. Some that were planted
on October 11 are now (November 6) just fit to supply a first
cutting, and will probably be several times cut from during the
winter. In this case from planting to first cutting is a period of
twenty-eight days.

Although the season is far advanced, there is time even now for
anyone to make a fair beginning with watercresses in pots. It is
not at all needful to look after any particular variety in the first
instance, for all are good, and it is the easiest thing in the whole
range of horticultural practice to convert into plants the young tops
taken from a bunch of shop cresses, or even to use the partially
rooted stems for the same purpose, provided they have a few healthy
leaves upon them. Asa matter of course, there must be a frame
or pit for their protection, or a place on the stage very near the
glass in a greenhouse; but while the weather continues mild they
should be fully exposed night and day. Those who begin with
a few will in due time enlarge the undertaking, and find it capital
amusement to supply the table with the most delicious watercresses
by the system I have thus hastily described.

December.

362 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

THE EFFECTIVE ARRANGEMENT OF SPRING
FLOWERS.

BY W. GARDINER.

QeeeemsS the flower-beds and borders are usually filled with spring
Af (3 f blooming plants during the month of November, I have
f ta; prepared a few notes on their effective arrangement,
with a view to assist those amateurs who are not well
acquainted with them.

I shall not attempt to describe the cultural details connected with
getting up a stock of spring bedders, but, instead, relate a few of
the points of my own practice, and at the same time give a few
examples of planting, which have been found here to be worthy of
general adoption. We have a long narrow border, which is to be
planted as follows. Next the grassverge will be arow of Double White:
‘Daisies,and then rows of tke following in the crder in which they are
named : Double Red Daisies, Golden Feather, Aubrietia deltoides, and
Arabisalbida. Here are five distinct varieties of early spring flowers
that will, from March until the end of May, furnish a display of colour ;
but, owing to the favourable position, I expect them to be at their
best from the middle of April onwards.. None of these subjects are
difficult to handle. They were taken up and divided at the end of
last May, and planted in a shady border, and the only attention they
received afterwards was one or two good soakings of water during
August, when the weather was dry.

The most showy subjects for distinct beds, or for prominent bits
of colouring, are <Alyssum sazatile conpactum, yellow, and Iberis
gibraltica, white; both are fine and showy. The following arrange-
ments produce a charming combination: Centre of Alyssum, with
an edging of Iberis, reversing them in the next match bed; then,
again, at centre of another bed, Myosotis sylvatica edged with
Alyssum. The proportion of blue must be considerably larger than
the other, or the strong tone of the yellow will kill it. It will be
well to bear this in mind when arranging the Forget-me-nots, for
even the white variety, when used in equal quantities, is too over-
powering. It will thus be seen that there is no lack of tasteful
combinations, if we know how to use the plants. What can be
prettier for a moderate-sized bed than a centre of either the Alyssum
or Iberis edged with a broad band of Aubrietia? All flower at the
same time, axd will satisfy the most exigent critic.

Here, again, is a round bed, ten feet over, divided into four
quarters by a line of the Golden Feather, placed at right angles
from the centre of the bed. In one quarter we have Aubrietia
deltoides, in the corresponding one Double Red Daisies, and in the
other two Double White Daisies and the Cliveden Blue Pansy. The
last arrangement is admirably adapted for Forget-me-nots alone.
By planting the divisional lines with the white variety, and filling
in the segments with the blue, the effect will be remarkably pleasing.

The next pair may be filled with blue Pansies, edged with Golden

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 363:

Feather ; the next with variegated Arabis, edged with either Double
Red Daisies or Aubrietia deltoides; the next with Cliveden Yellow
Pansy, edged with Double Crimson Daisies.

If you cannot wait for flowers, and want a cheerful bit of colour-
ing that will last good all the winter, plant the bed thus: Centre of
Single Wallflowers, next a broad band of Stachys lanata, next two
rows of Arabis variegata, next Double Red or Crimson Daisies, and
finally an edging of Euonymus radicans variegatus. A cheerful
border may be had by the following arrangement: For the back
row, plant a wide band of Wallflowers; next a band of the same
width of Stachys lanata, then a double row of Blue Forget-me-nots,.
next one row of the White Forget-me-not, next two rows of Double
Red Daisies, and edge with Aubrietia. Here is another example for
a ribbon border, still more showy, and admirably adapted for a con-
spicuous position: Plant next the walk or grass-verge a wide row
of Double White Daisies, next Purple Aubrietia, next Double Red
Daisies, next Double Lilac Primroses, next White Arabis, or Golden
Feather may be substituted for the Arabis. I might give other
examples of a like character, and then not exhaust the list of sub-
jzets ; but enough has been given to show how inexhaustible are the
materials available for spring gardening. I have not named more
than half the plants that are used for that purpose.

GARDEN ROSES.

BY W. KEMP.

sary to take a quite distinct course from that which
would be desirable were the blooms required for com-
petitive purposes. In the one case the chief aim is to produce a
few blooms of the finest quality; and in the other an abundance of
dowers is essential, so that they will make the garden gay with
colour and redolent with their delightful perfume, and also yield a
plentiful supply of flowers for cutting. In the selection of varieties
it is therefore necessary to give preference to those possessiag a
vigorous habit and bearing an abundance of flowers of fairly good
quality, decisive colouring, and fragrant. Fortunately, some ot our
finest exhibition roses combine these good qualities in an eminent
degree, and it need hardly be said that they are of special value for
garden decoration, as the high quality of the flowers adds materially
to their value. Some of the best show roses are so weakly in consti-
tution that they require high feeding, extra care, and a severe thin-
ning of the buds, to insure bloom suitable for exhibition, and it is
varieties of this class that must have no place in the garden.

_ Again, in the cultivation of garden roses they must be planted
wherever they will add most to the beauty of the pleasure grounds,

Decomber,

364 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

and be the most readily inspected when at their best; whilst those
from which the blooms for show purposes are to be gathered, must
be planted in the kitchen-garden, or in some situation where they
will not be within view of the windows, for the top-dressings of
manure applied in the early part of the season are necessarily
unsightly, and as the flower buds have to be thinned severely, at
no time do they make much of a display; certainly not sufficient to
compensate for the drawbacks above mentioned.

The attention of the readers of the FLroran Worip is now
directed to roses adapted for garden decoration, because November
and December are the two best months in the whole year for planting,
and to insure trees of the best quality, purchases should be made as
early in November as possible. It matters not whether the trees
are in full leaf, or whether they have shed a part of their foliage.
They can, after the end of October, be replanted with the full assu-
rance of their doing well. By purchasing early the buyer has the
first pick, and by planting in November the work can as a rule be
done more expeditiously, and with a greater degree of comfort, than
later in the season; and as the soil is warmer, the roots are placed
under conditions more favourable to their speedy development.

It would be most difficult to say where roses should be planted
in gardens when intended for decorations, because of the great differ-
ences which exist intheirconformation; but it may be said with advan-
tage that they should not be planted in the forecourt, neither should
large masses be formed in prominent positions near the windows, for
there are seasons of the year when groups of rose trees, especially
standards, are rather unsightly. Again, borders, filled with roots of
large timber trees, even if they are not shaded by the branches,
ought not to have roses planted in them, for, owing to the poverty
of the soil, it is impossible for them to make much progress, and in
the end they become victims to the aphis and other enemies that
prey upon roses when half starved or in an otherwise unhealthy
state,

Roses cannot well be planted in soil that has been too deeply
stirred, or which has had a too liberal application of manure. There-
fore in the preparation of the beds spread a layer of either old hotbed
or pigs’ manure over the surface, and then proceed to dig it over to
a depth of twelve inches, or, what is better still, have it trenched six
inches deeper. The roots will then be able to penetrate to a great
depth, and drought and other adverse influences will have but little
effect upon the trees. If the soil is light and sandy, six inches of
clay or strong loam may be worked into the soil, as the digging pro-
ceeds, with advantage. But the application of clay is not of suffi-
cient importance to justify the expenditure of a large sum of money.
When the roses are to be planted at intervals in the borders, or
blanks in the beds to be filled up, the stations should be marked out,
and holes made about two feet in diameter and eighteen inches in
depth, and then filledin with manure and soil, the latter to be taken
as far as practicable from the surface.

Bush roses, either on their own roots, the Manetti, or the brier,
are, when of large size, the most attractive in the garden ; but if the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND-GARDEN GUIDE. 365

cultivator prefers standards or half standards, there is no good
reason why they should not be had. The main objection to the
standards is the unsightly appearance they present when occupying
prominent positions upon the lawn. Some of the most effective beds
of roses I have seen for many years were those I met with in the course
of the past season in a grand old rectory garden, in which roses formed
by far the most important feature. These were circles from eight
to ten feet in diameter, and therefore large enough to hold a goodly
number of plants. In the centre of these were standards about four
feet high; round those half standards with two-feet stems; and out-
side of these were rows of dwarfs, good-sized bushes furnished with
foliage to the surface of the soil. The stems, which are such an eye-
sore when the standards stand out singly, were quite hidden from
view, and as they all had good-sized heads, the effect was marvellous
as compared with the pitiable objects met with in many gardens.
Smaller beds in the same garden were filled with half standards and
dwarfs. But as bush roses soon attain large dimensions, there is no
necessity for planting half standards in small beds for the purpose of
preventing them having a flat appearance.

Deep planting is objectionable, for when the roots are buried too
deeply the growth is not usually so satisfactory as could be wished.
In planting dwarfs on the Manetti, it is a good rule to plant deep
enough to bury the junction of the stock and graft two inches below
the surface, and standards should be planted a trifle deeper than they
were before, as indicated by the mark which is invariably visible on
the stem when received from the nursery.

We now come to the selection of varieties combining the qualities
mentioned above as being desirable in garden roses. A list of about
sixty of the finest garden roses has been prepared, and to this number
may be added any varieties that the cultivator may have seen and
taken a fancy to. They are grouped in their respective classes, and
arranged in their several colours, to assist the amateur in arranging
them satisfactorily. As the whole collection may be purchased at
a first-class nursery for less than five pounds, it will be seen that a
large capital is not at all necessary to embark in the delightful pur-
suit of rose growing.

HYBRID PERPETUALS.

Pure white—Madame Alfred de Rougemont, Coquette des
Blanches.

Pink and tinted white.—Anuna Alexieff, Anna de Diesbach, Auguste
Mie, Bessie Johnson, Captain Christy, Caroline de Sansal, Charles
Verdier, Madlle. Marie Cointet, Marguerite de St. Amand, Madlle.
Bonnaire, Madlle. Claire Cordier, Peach Blossom, Princess Mary of
Cambridge, Thyra Hammerich.

Rose and deep pink.—Antoine Mouton, André Dunand, Abel
Grand, Baroness Rothchild, Centifolia Rosea, Charles Verdier, Gloire
de Vitry, Elie Morel, Louise Peyronny, La France, Lyonnais, Madame
Thérése Levet, Madame C. Verdier, Richard Wallace.

Light crimson, carmine, and cerise.—Beauty of Waltham, Madame
Clémence Joigneaux, Comtesse d’Oxford, E, ¥. Teas, Etienné Levet,

December,

366 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Frangoise Michelon, John Hopper, Jules Margottin, Madame Domage,
Madame George Schwartz, Marie Rady, Marquisde Castellane, Victof
Verdier.

Crimson-scarlet, red, andcarmine.—Abbé Bramerel, Alfred Colomb,
Annie Wood, Camille Bernardin, Casimir Perier, Docteur Andry, Félix
Genero, Général Jacqueminot, Madame Marie Rady, Madame Victor
Verdier, Marie Baumann, Maurice Bernardin, Président Thiers,
Sénateur Vaisse.

Purple, blackish-crimson, and crimson-scarlet.—Antoine Ducher,
Baron de Bonstettin, Charles Lefebvre, Duke of Edinburgh, Ferdi-
nand de Lesseps, Horace Vernet, Louis Van Houtte, Maréchal Vail-
lant, Pierre Notting, Xavier Olibo.

PERPETUAL BOURBONS. t

Baron Grouelle, pink; Baronne de Maynard, white; Catherine
‘Guillot, deep pink; Louise Odier, bright rose ; Michel Bonnet, rose-
peach; Rev. H. H. Dombrain, rich reddish crimson ; Souvenir de la
Malmaison, blush.

TEA-SCENTED.

Belle de Bordeaux, pink; Devoniensis, black; Eugéne Desgaches,
rose; Homer, salmon; Gloire de Dijon, yellow; and Cheshunt Hybrid,
purplish rose. The tea-scented varieties here mentioned are the
hardiest in the section.

THE CHISWICK TRIAL OF BEDDING PANSIES AND
VIOLAS.

mea I NCE the introduction by Mr. B. 8. Willams of Viola
w4 Perfection a few years since, the bedding violas and
pansies have multiplied so rapidly that cultivators
became perplexed in making their selections, and, in
=——' consequence, the Royal Horticultural Society deter-
mined to have a systematic trial of all the varieties in commerce
for the purpose of eliminating inferior sorts and indicating the
superiority of others by conferring the distinction of first and
second class certificates upon them. Accordingly, in September,
1874, a collection, comprising all the sorts procurable, was planted
out in a selected position in the Society’s garden at Chiswick ; and
as the season has been favourable to these flowers, they have bloomed
most satisfactorily, and excellent opportunities have been afforded
for determining their relative merits. For the latter purpose, the
Floral Committee of the Society visited the gardens several times
in the course of the early part of the summer, and elosely examined
the varieties of which the collection consisted. In all, nineteen
varieties were certificated.
The names of the varieties which were considered sufficiently
distinct and good to merit a certificate are as follows :—
Alpha.—F lowers large in size, and of a rich blue purple colour,
vigorous and free-flowering. :

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 367

Bedfont Yellow——Rich golden yellow, flowers large, and the
growth compact and vigorous.

Blue Bell.—Deep blue, flowers of medium size, and produced
continuously from early in March until quite late in the summer;
it is very effective, of free growth, and altogether desirable.

Blue Perfection—Mauve, shaded maroon, flowers of medium
size, fine habit, and free flowering.

Dickson's Golden Gem.—Rich yellow, the flowers of medium size,
the plant dwarf and free flowering.

Dickson’s Queen.—White, flowers large and freely produced ;
rather later than some others, nevertheless exceedingly good.

Dickson’s Snowflake-—White, free flowering and effective, but
hardly so good as the preceding.

Dr. Stuart.—Purple mauve, flowers rather small, but produced
in great profusion.

Lilacina.—Lilac, the top petals shaded blue, the lower petals
shaded red; flowers of medium size, the plant dwarf and compact ;
first rate. .

Lily White Tom Thumb.—White, with yellow eye and dark pen-
cilling, flowers small, growth vigorous and spreading ; fine.

Lothair.—Rich purple, with yellow eye and bronzy red spot on
lower petals ; habit dwarf and compact.

Magpie.—Dark mulberry, with a white spot at the tip of each
petal ; rather tall and free in growth, a most abundant bloomer, and
although one of the oldest bedding pansies in existence, it is still
one of the best in its line of colour.

Mulberry.—Dark reddish plum, habit spreading and compact,
and the flowers are borne well above the foliage ; distinct and good.

Novelty—Purple, shaded red, flowers large, rather tall, but of
fairly good habit, and useful for its distinct and effective colour.

Queen of Lilacs.—Lilac, with faint shade of red, flowers rather
large, and produced profusely throughout the season ; habit strong,
but compact. One of the finest of the lilac-flowered varieties.

Sovereign.—Deep rich buttercup yellow, very dwarf, free flower-
ing and most effective.

The Tory.—Blue-purple, flowers large and good substance, habit
good; a free and continuous flowering variety of great merit.

Tyrian Prince.—Purple, with mulberry shade, flowers large ;
habit robust yet compact.

White Swan.—Pure white, flowers of medium size, and borne
well above the foliage ; habit compact and good.

The foregoing comprise the very finest varieties in cultivation,
and, it will be readily granted, more than sufficient for any one
garden. The violas and pansies are so similar in character that it has
not been considered desirable to separate them in preparing this report.
As our readers have been already informed, the bedding pansies and
violas are most valuable for the embellishment of the flower garden
during the spring months. Indeed, no other class of plants are
capable of producing such arich and telling display of colour. Their
only drawback consists in the risk of their perishing on cold wet
soils during the winter season. To insure a satisfactory display of

”

December.

368 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

bloom during the spring season, they should be planted as early in
September as the beds can be prepared, to afford them a chance
of becoming well established before the cold weather overtakes
them. They may also, on deep loamy soils, especially in the
Northern counties, be employed as summer bedders ; but it is proper
to add that there is always a risk of their going off towards the
end of July. The blue varieties are very effective intermixed with
variegated geraniums, and if they die during the summer it is not
of so much consequence, as the geraniums will soon fill up the space.
As all the varieties enumerated are first-rate, readers will have no
difficulty in selecting half-a-dozen varieties or so, as the brief de-
scriptions accompanying the names will furnish them with the
necessary information respecting the colours of the several varieties.

BEAUTIFUL WINDOWS AND BALCONIES IN WiNTER.
BY A TOWN AMATEUR.

ae eee}0U will, perhaps, permit me to say, first of all, that, as a
Pa' resident in the suburbs of the metropolis, I am not
overburdened with room for gardening operations, and
have consequently to take advantage of all the space
available for plant-growing. As the house in which I
reside is in full view of the road, I have made the embellishment of
the balcony and the windows quite a hobby, and my efforts have so
far been attended with a fair measure of success. The windows and
balconies are, more or less, attractive throughout the year, and the
plants employed in decorating them are by no means costly or diffi-
cult of cultivation. From early in April until November they are
gay with flowering plants, and during the remaining part of the year
they are furnished with evergreens of various kinds which have a
very rich appearance. In April and May, the flowers consist
chiefly of bulbs; and from the last-mentioned month until the early
part of October geraniums are exclusively employed. The pom-
pone-chrysanthemums are then brought into requisition, and, as soon
as they are past their best, they are removed to make way for the
evergreens, and it is to these I would now direct attention.

I am all the more anxious to refer to this matter because the
shrubs so generally employed in window and balcony decoration
have but little to recommend besides their cheapness; for it is not
often that anything beyond the common euonymus, the old aucuba,
and the tree-box is seen on the window-sill of a villa residence,
whereas there are at least a score of really good things adapted for
the purpose. In the selections of evergreens for the window, it is
needful to keep in mind the importance of their being perfectly
hardy, and not liable to injury by the somewhat rough usage to
which they are necessarily subjected. I have fairly tried nearly all
the hardy evergreens, and have found some of those which are
really considered to be quite unfit for the purpose to be of the ut-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 369

most value. Aralia Fortwnei is quite hardy and valuable for its
large palmate foliage. Aucubas, of which there are now many
varieties, are especially valuable, as they can be grown in the
border during the summer, and lifted and potted in the autumn
and again returned to the border in the spring without suffering in
the least. The green-leaved female form, A. japonica femina viridis,
is, in my opinion, the best of all the aucubas ; but it is well to have
a few plants also of the common form with spotted leaves. They
are both more effective when furnished with berries. Of the tree
boxes, which are useful for contrasting the best are Buwus balearica,
and B. sempervirens latifolia, as they have larger leaves than the
common box. The latter is not to be despised by those to whom
a little extra expense is a matter of some importance. Common
laurels are quite unfit for this purpose, because of their coarseness ;
and the Portugal laurel, which has a very pleasing appearance,
suffers so much when lifted and potted, and from a little neglect
when kept in pots, that it cannot be recommended. wonymus
japonicus, notwithstanding its being so common, is desirable, for it
forms neat bushes, and its dark leafage brings out the variegation
of the other shrubs to wonderful advantage. LZ. 7. latifolius albo
vartegatus and E. 7. awreo variegatus, which have silvery and golden -
variegation respectively, are most valuable because of their neat
habit and effective colouring. vies, trained to neat trellises, are
very pretty. The Irish and Algerian are the best for general
purposes. All the variegated forms are also very attractive.
Skimmia japonica is a very pretty little plant for an outer line in a
window-box, and also for a marginal band to a large vase or basket
when well furnished with its brilliant vermilion berries. It may be
lifted in the autumn and potted without receiving any injury, if the
work is carefully done.

In addition to the foregoing, some of the coniferous plants are most
valuable for windows and balconies. A few of the best are the American
and the Chinese Arbo vites, Cupressus Lawsoniana, when from one to
two feet in height, Retinospora obtusa, R. pisifera, Thuja Lobbi, and
T.tartarica. These should not be grown in very large proportions,
but their upright habit and feathery spray form a pleasing contrast
to the round heads and distinct leafage of the shrubs enumerated
above. They should all be put in pots of the smallest size possible,
and if they are not turned out of the pots and planted in a border
in the spring, the pots should be plunged in a border in a rather
shady situation, but not overshadowed by trees, and care taken to
supply them liberally with water during the summer season. Any
pruning that may be necessary to keep the plants compact and in
proper shape should be done in the spring when they are removed
to their summer quarters.

Tux List or Boranic GARDENS. AND OF PRoressors, CURATORS, AND CORRES?
PONDENTS on matters botanical and horticultural, originated a few years since by
Professor E. Morren, has lately been revised, and the third edition is now before us.
It is a complete directory, and is supplemented by an index of names and an index
of places. From the first of these we find that it gives the names and addresses of
about 900 teachers and promoters of botanical science. ay

December.

370 VHE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

CELOSIA PYRAMIDALIS PLUMOSA FOR WINTER
DECORATIONS.

BY RB. 8. YATES,

Nurseries, Sale, Cheshire.

OU will, I am well sure, agree with me that there are not
many plants of greater value for winter decorations
than Celosia pyramidalis plumosa, for you have seen
our plants on more than one occasion, and are well able
to appreciate the rich and striking effect they produce
when at their best. But to possess any great value the specimens
must be well grown and represent a first-class strain. This celosia
is not much known in its true character, for, more often than not,
those who take it in hand have, for their trouble, stunted plants,
bearing miserable tufts of the size of the top joint of the little
finger for side branches, and a tuft at the top that may be likened
to a finger cut from a worn-out glove. The general appearance is
that of a cockscomb run wild. Nowa good specimen raised from
seed saved from a good strain will attain a height of five or six
feet, and be furnished nearly the whole length of its stem with side-
branches, each bearing a large tuft of inflorescence that may be
likened to a bunch of feathers or a spike of the pampas-grass.
Nothing can be more elegant than these plumes, and in colour they
are of surpassing richness. The colours vary from the most intense
amethyst or vinous purple to pale yellow and buff, tinted orange.
Each plant produces, of course, plumes of the same colour ; but from
a packet of seed you obtain all the colours here mentioned. The
gneat size, intense colour, density, and lustre of these plumes, render
them amongst the most remarkable of all known vegetable produc-
tions at this season of the year; and a specimen of the size here
mentioned will produce sufficient separate plumes for a long series of
decorations.

People who have been accustomed to the miserable examples so
common in gardens suppose, when they see our specimens, that we
are in possession of some important secret bearing on their cultiva-
tion. But it is not so, for there is really no secret at all. We begin
with good seed, but precisely the same as is saved for supplying
customers, and we treat the plants generously throughout. They
like heat and moisture and a rich, mellow, loamy soil, to which a
moderate proportion of well-decayed manure and leaf-mould have
been added. They must also be shifted on into larger pots; for if
you would have specimens of the stature of a man, and well-fur-
nished with the plumy inflorescence, the plants must not, whilst
in a small state, be kept in the pots a day longer than they have
well-filled them with roots. To this point I would direct special
attention, because of so many failures occurring through the plants
being kept starving in small pots until they have become so stunted
that the most skilful management will fail in setting them right
again. The cultivator should, at the beginning, determine upon the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 371

size of the pots in which he intends to bloom them, and until they
are put into these, they should be repotted immediately the roots
form a close net-work round the outside of the ball. Hach shift
should be into pots two sizes larger than those previously occupied ;
and, to make everything as plain as possible, I would add, that the
most suitable sized pots in which to bloom celosias are those nine,
eleven, and twelve inches in diameter, the intermediate size being,
perhaps, the most suitable for the amateur. When these pots are
well filled with roots, rather weak liquid manure should be applied
alternately with clear, soft water, and the supply continued until
they are fully in bloom They may be flowered in eight or even
six-inch pots; but in these it is impossible to develope the true
character of this distinct and ornamental plant.

The seed may be sown in February and the two following months;
but the most suitable period for seed-sowing is that comprised within
the first and second weeks in March. Sow in shallow pans, in pre-
cisely the same manner as you would seed of primulas, or other
choice things. Cover the seed with a mere dusting of soil, then lay
a sheet of glass over the pans, and place in a propagating or cucum-
ber pit. When the young plants are plainly visible above the sur-
face, remove the glass, and as soon as they are large enough to
handle, prick them off into thumb-pots, and shift on as already
advised. They do exceedingly well in the same temperature and
with the same degree of atmospheric humidity as meions and cu-
cumbers, and, by mentioning this fact, 1 shall perhaps do more
service than by giving a table of temperatures for various stages of
growth. They should be exposed to the full light throughout, and
receive abundant supplies of water at the roots. It may be added
that the plumes will remain bright and fresh for a long time after
their removal from the plants, and are well adapted for dinner-table
and every other form of indoor decoration.

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM IN 1875.

Sama RYSANTHEMUM SOCIETIES have of late years

y multiplied so rapidly, and the exhibitions have become
so numerous, that it is quite impossible to do more in
these pages than speak of them ina general way. <As
will have been seen in the list published in the issue of
the Frorat Worn for November, there have been several exhibi-
tions in all the weeks excepting the first, and a brief report of each
would require a whole number, and, owing to their similarity, the
reports would be wearisome to our readers. We shall, therefore,
content ourselves by saying that the finest exhibitions were those
held at Brixton, Stoke Newington, Bristol, and Woolwich, and give
the names of the finest varieties staged at these shows. The Royal
Horticultural Society’s exhibition was, so far as the chrysanthemums
were concerned, of avery indifferent character; and if it had not
been for the large display of winter fruits, it would have been a very

December.

372 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

poor affair. At Bristol and Brixton, fruits and miscellaneous:
flowering plants were strongly represented, and these exhibitions.
were far more interesting and attractive than those consisting ex-.
clusively of chrysanthemums. One of the most interesting exhibi-
tions this year was that held within a stone’s throw of the London
Bridge Railway Station, a district most unfavourable to the cultiva-
tion of plants of all classes. All the plants and cut blooms staged
were grown within a few hundred yards of the place of exhi-.
bition, and a splendid display they made, for the numerous classes
were well filled, and the plants were furnished with good flowers
and excellent foliage, and the cut blooms were of splendid quality.
Both plants and blooms were so fresh in appearance that it was
difficult to believe that they had been grown in one of the most
densely populated and smokiest districts in the Metropolis, and
that, too, by labouring men.

As was evident by the specimens and cut blooms at all the exhi-
bitions, this has not been a “ chrysanthemum year,” for, taken on
the whole, they have been considerably below the average. Owing
to the heavy rainfall during the months of June and July, they
made an excessively luxuriant growth, and the wood did not become
sufficiently matured to produce blooms of really first-class quality.

Notes were made of the best varieties staged in the several
exhibitions, and for the assistance of those of our readers who may
be desirous of commencing the cultivation of these invaluable
autumnal flowers, or of adding to their present stock, we have pre-
pared a list of the finest varieties, and have arranged them according
to the purpose for which they are best adapted.

Best Fiery IncurveD VaRIETIFS, WITH FINELY-FORMED FLOWERS.
—Alfred Salter, Beethoven, Beverley +*,Blonde Beauty, Bronze Jardin
des Plantest, Cherub, Dr. Brock, Duchess of Buckingham, Duchess.
of Wellington, Empress of India, Fiugalt, Florence Nightingale,
General Bainbrigget, General Hardinge, General Slade, George
Glennyt*, Gloria Mundi, Golden Beverley, Golden Eagle, Golden
Dr. Brock+, Golden Jobn Salter, Guernsey Nugget, Her Majestyt*,
Tona, Isabella Bott, Jardin des Plantest*, John Salter, Lady Har-
dinget*, Lady Carey, Lady Slade, Le Grand, Lord Derbyt, Miss.
Mary Morgant, Mrs. G. Rundle*, Mr. Brunlees, Mrs. Sharpt, Mr.
Evans, Mr. Gladstone, Mr. W. H. Morgan, Pink Pearl, Prince
Altred, Prince of Wales, Princess Beatrice, Princess of Wales,
Princess of Teck, Rev. J. Dix, Queen of England, White Globe,
White Venus, Yellow Perfection.

Best Firrzen Lance ANEMONE-FLOWERED WARIETIES.—An-
tonius, Empress*, Fieur de Marie*, George Sand*, Gluck*, King of
Anemones*, Lady Margaret, Louis Bonamy, Marguerite d’Anjou,
Mrs. Pethers, Prince of Anemones, Princess Marguerite, Queen
Marguerite, Rose Marguerite, Sunflower*. These are only suitable
for exhibition as cut blooms, and are of no use to the amateur.

Best Tutrty with Incurvep anD ReEFLExeD Fiowers, for
Exhibition Specimens or Conservatory Decoration.—Almaf, Anne
Saltert, Aurea Multiflora, Cardinal Wiseman, Carissima, Christinet*,
Chevalier Domage, Countess of Granvillet*, Dr. Sharp, Fingal,.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 373

‘General Bainbrigge, Gloria Mundit*, Golden Christinet, Golden
Cluster, Her Majesty, Rival Little Harry, Lord Clyde, Lord Rane-
laght, Julie Lagravéret*, Le Grand, Mrs. George Rundlet*, Mrs.
Forsyth, Prince Alfred, George Glenny, Prince of Wales, Progne,
Sparkler, Vestat, Virgin Queen, White Christinet, White Venust.

Best Turrty Pompones, for Exhibition Specimens or Conserva-
tory Decoration.—Acis, Aigle d’Or, Amyt+t, Andromeda, Aurore
Boréalet, Bobt*, Cedo Nulli, Fanny, Florence, General Canrobertt*,
‘Golden Auroret*, Helenet, Innocence, Mrs. Hull, Judy, Little
Beautyt, Madame Eugéne Domage*, Madlle Marthét*, Madge
Wildfire, Miranda, Miss Julia, Mrs. Dix, Mrs. Turner, Président
Decaisne, Prince Kenna, Rose d’Amour, Rose Trevennat*, St.
Michael, Salamon, Stella, White Travennat*.

Best Ercutreen Japaness, for the Conservatory.—Aurantiumft,
Cromatella+, Dr. Masters*}, Elaine*t, Fair Maid of Guernseyf, G.
F. Wilson, Garnet}, Grandiflora*t, James Salter*+, Madame
Godillot+, Nagasaki Violet, Prince Satsuma}, Red Dragon*+, Red
Indian, The Daimiot, The Mikado, The Sultan*}, Wizard.

Best Firreen oF ALL CriaAsses, for the Amateur, selected from
the above.— Large-flowered—Chevalier Domage, Gloria Mundi, George
Glenny, Mrs. George Rundle, Dr. Sharpe, Prince Alfred, Princess
Beatrice. Japanese—Hlaine, James Salter, Garnet. FPompones—
Golden Aurore, Fanny, Madame Eugéne Domage, Madlle. Marthé,
and Rose Trevenna.

Those who may require a fewer number of either of the above
elasses should take first of all those marked thus *, and if these
are not sufficient take in addition those marked thus t.

DAHLIA COCCINEA.

BY HENRY CANNELL,
Nurseries, Swanley and Woolwich.
sq] RING the past summer, I had in my nurseries at

) WN Swanley upwards of one and a half acres of dahlias,
iH | and although the collection comprised all the finest

<C

uy /§ varieties in cultivation, I am bound to say that one of
m= the most attractive of all was Dahlia coccinea, trom

which it is supposed all the varieties of the florists’ type have |
descended. It was introduced rather more than seventy years ago,

and in the race after the varieties with double flowers it has been

quite lost sight of, to the injury of our gardens. As it is now

comparatively unknown, I will say, for the information of readers

interested in these flowers, it is as unlike a dahlia of the ordinary

type as it well can be, excepting in the foliage. The flowers are

quite single, perfectly flat, and measure from three to four inches in

diameter. The colour is an intense crimson scarlet, and as the

flowers are borne in the most profuse manner possible, and well

Above the foliage, well developed plants, standing singly or in

December,

374 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GABDEN GUIDE.

clusters, produced very rich effect in the border. The plant has a
neat dwarf and compact habit, the height ranging from eighteen to
twenty-four inches, according to the character of the soil. I intend
‘growing it very largely, for there can be no question as to its value
for bedding purposes, and for the mixed border, and it only requires
to be known to be planted largely in private gardens. 1 know of
no more valuable bedding-plant for amateurs, as it can be grown in
quantities without the aid of glass, or, at the most, the shelter of a cold
frame in the spring, to protect the young growth from spring frosts,
and enable the cultivator to push the plants on, and have them of
a good size by the time they can be planted out with safety. The
roots can be wintered in any dry place where they will be safe from
frost; and if there is no glass, they may be potted in March,
and placed in a warm, sheltered position, and be protected at night
with mats or canvas; or, if there is any difficulty in adopting this
course, they can be planted in the border or beds, and when the
young growth makes its appearance above the surface, a flower-pot
turned over them in the evening will afford ample protection.

There is, I understand, a form similar in character and the shape
of its flowers, with pure yellow flowers; but of this I cannot say
much at present. It will, in all probability, be of considerable value-
as a yellow bedder. It would be interesting to know what has
become of Dahlia scapigera, a species with white flowers, similar in
shape to D. coccinea. It was introduced to the Birmingham Horti-
cultural Society’s Gardens through the Berlin Royal Gardens, about
fifty years ago, and ,was figured in the “ Botanist,” vol. iv., t. 161,
The flowers are pure white, and the average height of the plant is
two feet. Like the rest of the genus, it is a native of Mexico.

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR DECEMBER.

How beautiful this night! the balmiest sigh, o
Which vernal zephyrs breathe in evening's ear,

Were discord to the speaking quietade

That wraps this moveless scent. Heaven’s ebon vault
Studded with stars unutterably bright,

Through which the moon’s unclouded grandeur rolls,
Seems like a canopy which love had spread

To curtain her sleeping world. Yon gentle hills,
Robed in a garment of untrodden snow—

Yon darksome rocks, whence icicles depend,

So stuinless that their white and glittering spires
Tinge not the moon’s pure beam—yon castled steep,
Whose banner hangeth o'er the time-worn tower

So idly, that wrapt fancy deemeth it

A metaphor of peace ;—all form a scene

Where musing solitude might love to lift

Her soul above this sphere of earthliness ;

Where silence undisturbed might watch alone,

So cold, so bright, so still.

SHELLEY.

fes,e URICULAS.—Remove the old decayed leaves, but in doing so be careful
7 424) not to injure the plants. The plants must never be dust-dry, let the
vA Ki weather be ever so severe. Beware of damp, and during frost avoid
x23) watering until a favourable change occurs, if possible.
Busu Fruits may be propagated by cuttings of ripe stout shoots of
last year, and the buds to be removed from the bottom of the cutting to within four
inches of the top, so as to form a clear stem and prevent suckers, Lay on a thick.

tr

INDEX.

AxpurTitons, 118

AEthionema coridifolium, 134

African lily, wintering, 345

Agapanthus umbellatus, 345

Agave americana, flowering, 333

Agave Victoria Regine, 349

Alexandra Palace, 154, 317, 318

Alphand’s “ Parks and Promenades of
Paris,’ 194

Alpine plants for borders, 129

Amateur’s arboretum, 321

Amorphophallus Rivieri, 338

Anszectochili, 289

Annuals, bedding, 109

Apple orchards, miniature, 349

Apple tree, enemies of, 223

Apples for the million, 124; keeping
under leaves, 286; winter dessert,
331

Aquarium, Westminster, 349

Arboretum, amateur’s, 321

Aucuba japonica in the Regent’s Park,
156

Azaleas, 159

Bamboos, 278

Beans for exhibition,
trainers for, 283

Bedders, new, 266 ; spring, 144

Bedding arrangements at the Crystal
Palace, 298

Bedding plants, hardy, 115; preparing,
135

Beds, planting flower, 96

Bee-keepers’ association, 253

Bee-keepiog, 52

Begonias tuberous-rooted, 114

Berberidopsis corallina, 97

Birds for the household, 240

Boldoa fragrans, 29

Boiler, Deard’s, 128 ; Read’s, 31

Books noticed, 61, 62, 187, 261

Bouquets, haud and buttonhole, 43

Boussingualtia basselloides, 28

Bright flowers for dull days, 335

159 ; Voice’s

British wild flowers, 91
Broccoli, 86

Bulbs in pots, 261
Buttonhole bouquets, 43

Cabbage, 48

Cacti, 191; globular, 1

Camellias, 128

Campanulas, 183

Candytuft Mount Lebanon, 134

Cannell’s system of heating, 26

Capsicums, 49

Carnations, clove, 396

Carnivorous plants, 223, 253

Carrots, 87; all the year round, 180

Cedar, red, 190

Celery, 86

Celosia pyramidalis, 370

Cement for flowers, 287

Century plant, 333

Chair, Abercorn, 150

Christmas rose, 506

Chrysanthemums in 1875, 371

Church decorations, flowers for, 248

Cinerarias, raising, 189 ; seedling, 162

Citrus japonicus, 127

Clematis, Jackman’s exhibition of, 188;
and roses, 269

Clianthus dampieri, 247

Climbers, greenhouse, 192 ; hardy, 325

Clove carnations, 306

Cole’s vineyard, 222

Cologne exhibition, 297

Comparettia coccinea, 33

Corn salad, 47

Conservatory, spring flowers for, 295

Crinum moorei, 333

Crocus culture, 261

Crocuses, winter flowering, 93

Crotons, notes on, 81

Crystal Palace, carpet bedding at, 16,
298

Cucumber, Duke of Edinburgh, 84

Cucumber frame, heating, 62

Cucumbers, 48, 343

1V INDEX.

Currants, 254
Cyanophyllums, standard, 62
Cyclamen seed, 128
Cyclamens, Persian, 94

Dahlia coccinea, 373
Dahlias, bedding, 158
Daphne indica, 63

Dinner table decorations, 311
Dipladerias, 161

Drains, roots in, 200

Drill, seed, 149

Elm, enemies of, 228

Endive blanching, 253
Epacris, 31

Eucalyptus globulus, 270

Fairy orange moss, 257

Fern case, worms in, 127

Fern cases, exhibition, 68

Ferns, British, 157 ; filmy, 203

Ficus repens, 349

Figs, 231; dropping, 62 *.

Filmy ferns, 203

Finger post, 59

Flower beds, planting, 96

Flowers, cement for, 287 ; new, of 1874,
95; electro plated, 133; raising
hardy, 215; sending by post, 280;
winter, 335

Flowering trees and shrubs, 225

Frames, Voice’s ventilating, 282

Frame plants, 206

Fruit crop of 1875, 271

Fruit room, new form of, 292

Fruit trees, for amateurs, 328; plant-
ing, 351

Fuchsia fulgens, 63

Fuchsia riccartoni, 94

Fuchsias, seedling, 239; specimen, 98

Games, garden, 137

Garden, formation of the kitchen, 120

Garden games, 137

Garden Guide, 27, 58, 89,125, 152,
219, 249, 213, 316, 346

Gardeners Royal Benevolent Institu-
tion, 189

Garston vineyard, 155

Geraniums for everybody, 38

Ghent, fruit show, 253; horticultural
industry of, 29

Gladiolus, a double, 45

Glass metal, 190

Gooseberries, gigantic, 272

Gourds, 87

Grapes, choice, 307; houses for, 4;
keeping in winter, 332; Muscat, 66;
new way of growing, 174; select, 9;
and strawberries, 79

Grape-vines, management of, 50; plant-
ing, 350

Greenhouse management, 350

Greenhouse plants, new, 235

Greenhouses, new patent, 151

Hair, sprays for the, 208
Hardy herbaceous plants, 273
Hardy climbers, 325

Harvest hymn, 315

Heating apparatus, new, 252
Heating, Cannell’s system of, 26
Hellebores, hybrid, 279
Hemp, the, 165

Hepatica angulosa, 129
Herbaceous plants, hardy, 273
Hollyhock disease, 190

Honey fair, 253

Hyacinth culture, 261
Hyacinths, notes on, 263
Hydra, the, 301

Impressions of plants, 282
Insectivorous plants, 253

Kales, 191

Kalosanthes, 213

Kitchen garden, formation of, 120
Knife, budding, 151

Kumquat orange, 127

Lapagerias, hardiness of, 94
Lawn, salted, 224

Lawn weeds, 191 —

Leaves for garnishing, 57
Leeks, 87, 102

Lettuce, 49

Libonia floribunda, 351

Lilies for the conservatory, 309
Lily of the Valley, culture of, 14
Lindley medal, 29

Linnean society, 222

Lobelias, bedding, 140
Lycastes, 25

Mauure, stable, 56
Manures, chemical, 158
Moss, fairy orange, 257
Mulberry, new, 78
Mushroom culture, 12

Narciss culture, 261

Narciss, double, 255

Nectarine trees, 30, 62 ; winter manage-
ment, 351

Nettle, the, 165

Nertera depressa, 257

New flowers of 1874, 95

Odontoglossum roezli, 190
Onions, 87; Chiswick trial of, 349

“INDEX. v

»
‘Onion grub, 30
Orchard, the amateur’s, 329
Orchids, for everybody, 146 ; miniature,
33 ; variegated-leaved, 289

Peonies, herbaceous, 85

Palms, 157 ; conservatory, 131

Pandanus, 353

Pansies, 356

Paper, Newman’s botanical, 155

Paris, parks and promenades of, 104

Parrots, management of, 70

Parsley, 88

Parsnips, 88

Peach trees, 62; winter management,
351

Pears, on Cotoneaster stocks, 246 ; des-
sert, 155

Pea, the Glory, 247

Peas, 49; Laxton’s new, 40

Pelargonium, the yellow, 156
elargoniums, new, 156 ; not flowering,
128 ; select variegated, 112; zonal,
275; choice zonals, 10, 38

Pelargonium Society, 29, 155; annual
meeting, 286

Phloxes, cultivation, 23

Plant cases, Beles 151

or pulcherrima, cultivation of,
3

Polyanthuses, 157

Post, sending flowers by, 280

Potato prizes, 93_

Potato trial, American, 94

Potatoes, 88; for light soils, 319; cata-
logue of, 55; exhibition of, 155, 348;
in 1875, 244

Poultry feeder, 149

Primula pulcherrima, 156

Primulas, 157.

Promenade trees, 71

Radish, 88

Rarsome’s lawn mowers, 254

Rochea falcata, 32

Root cuttings of roses, 3

Rose, the Christmas, 306

Rose trees, propagation of, 3

Roses, new, 141; in 1875, 258; pot,
164; and rose shows, 194; varieties
that originate by sports, 165; town,
193; in the window, 177; and cle-
matis, 269; garden, 363

Royal Botanic Society’s anniversary,
286

Royal Horticultural Society’s new ar-
rangements, 285 ; position of, 221

Saffron meadow, 189

Sarcodes sanguinea, 9

Saxifraga stracheyi, 155

Scarborough lily, 350

Seed drill, 149

Seeds, sowing, 76

Sending flowers by post, 280
Senecio macroglossus, 93
Shading plant houses, 182
Shakespeare’s Wallflower, 80
Shrubs, flowering, 225
Silene pendula compacta, 83
Snails, 30

| Snow plant, 9

Sowing seeds, 76

Spinach, 88

Sprays for the hair, 208

Spring bedders, 144, 362

Spring flowers, 197; for the conserva-
tory, 295

Staphylea pinuata, 93

Stenogastra multiflora, 77

Stephanotis floribunda, 318

Stocks, intermediate, 237

Stove plants, new, 235

Stove plants in cool house, 334

Strawberries, 201; and grapes, 79

Structure of plants, 277

Sutton and Sons, seed stores, 216

Thermometer, Cox’s, 150

Tomato, 88

Trees, beautiful, 321; flowering, 225 ;
planting fruit, 351; promenade, 71;
for shelter, 31; wall, 62

Tulip culture, 261

Turner’s Nurseries, Slough, 313

Turnips, 89

Vallota purpurea, 350

Vegetable marrow, 89

Vegetables, choice, 59; forcing, 21; to
be sown in July, 210; useful, 46, 86,
102

Veitch’s fruit prizes, 252

Veronicas, shrubby, 31

Vine borders, 7

Vines, management of, 50; planting,
8; in pots, 286

Vinery, the amateur’s, 50, 4, 66; for
muscats, 66

Vineries, constructing, 4

Violas, 366

Vitality, dormant, 93

Wall, the other side of, 239
Wallflower, Shakespeare, 80

Wall fittings, 151

Water-can, perfect, 150
Watercress, 357

Wild flowers, 91

Window flowers, 368 P
Winter flowers, 335

Wistarias, standard, 18

vi INDEX.

COLOURED PLATES.

Acer polymorphum palmatifidum, 321
Anectochilus xanthophyllus, 289
Berberidopsis corallina, 97
Comparettia coccinea, 33

Dipladenia brearleyana, 161
Echinopsis pentlandi, 1

Hepatica angulosa, 129 |

Nertera depressa, 257

Pandanus, group of, 353:

Rose, Paul Neyron, 198

Rose, pink, Gloire de Dijon, 65
Weigela Middendorffiianapurpurata,225

WOOD ENGRAVINGS.

ZEthionema coridifolium, 134

Araucaria imbricata, 108

Bois de Boulogne, 106

Bostrichus chalcographus, 230

Bostrichus typographus, 230

Butterfly, nettle, 167

Candytuft, Mount Lebanon, 134

Cannell’s system of heating, 26

Case, fern, 69

Chair, Abercorn, 150

Cossonus linearis, 229

Cucumber, Duke of Edinburgh, 84

Cupressus lawsoniana, 107

Distaff, Italian, 171

Drill, seed, 149

Elm, enemies of, 229, 230

Fern case, 69

Frames, Voice’s garden, 282, 283

Fuchsia, Mrs. H. Cannell, 101

Heating, example of Cannell’s system,
26

Hemp, leaf of, 172

Hydra fusca, 304, 305

Hydra viridis, 302 :
Knife, new budding, 151

_Lemna major, 302

Nettle butterfly, 167

Nettle, sting of, 166

Orobanche ramosa, 173

Palm, Rhapis flabelliformis, 132
Pea, Dr. Hogg, 41

Pea, Supplanter, 42

Pea, Unique, 40

| Psyche in the flame, 169

Rhapis flabelliformis, 132

Scolytus destructor, ae

Seed, drill, 149

Silene-pendula compacta, 83

Stenogastra multiflora, 78

Strawberry house, 79

Trainers, Voice’s, 283

Vinery, lean-to, with outside border, 5

Vinery, lean-to, with border inside and
out, 6

Vinery with heated border, 67

eg span roof, with inside borders,

Vinery and strawberry house, 79

Voice’s garden frames, 282, 288 ;
trainers, 283

Wasp, sting of, 166

‘Water can, perfect, 150 .

Watercress, culture of, in pots and
pans, 357

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 375

eating of half-rotten dung between gooseberry and currant bushes, and in dry
weather prick it in with a fork, so as tu avoid injury to the roots, Raspberries to
have a heavy mulch, which is not to be pricked in; any distucbance of their roots
is a great injury.

CameLLiss.—Extremes of temperature, moisture, or drought will cause the bude
to fall; and it will be as well now to see that all Camellias are really moist at the
roots, for sometimes, after the roots become dry, the water passes away on the outside
of the ball, without any benefit to the roots whatever, Adry heat is very injurious
to Camellias now. is

Cagnations ann Picorexs ote have abundant ventilation and very careful
watering If any appearance of fly, which is easily detected on the top grass of the
plant, fumigate twice.

CavuLirLowens, Lerrucss, etc., in frames and hand-lights, must have plenty
of air during mild weather by removing the glasses entirely on fine days, and keeping
them tilted during rains. If any signs of mildew, sprinkle with sulpbur.

Caxysantaemums may be disposed of very easily by setting aside in a cool
greenhouse one store pot of each variety it is intended to propagate, and destroying
all the rest. Good sto ls in six-inch pots will furnish any number of ecttings when
required, Cultivators who have no glass can pack the roots clore together under a
wall or fence, where some dry straw can be thrown over them daring severe frost,

Cineeanias throwing up th wer-stems to be put in an intermediate house
for early flowers. The most b ard to be repotted at once, so as oumake fine
speci for a very late bloom. Keep the stock clean, use sulphur where mildew

occurs, and fumigate for green-fly.

Consexvarony.—Let nothing suffer now for want of fire-heat. Forced bulbs
will require warm positions, but Heaths, Epacrises, and other hard-wocded plants,
must be at the coolend. Fur succession now, Mignonette, Primulas, Violets, Lily
of the Valley, Luculia gratissima, Poinsettias, Euphorbias, and Justicias are par-
ticularly valuable. Keep the atmosphere pretty dry, to prolong the bloom of
Camellias, Azaleas, ete. Average temperature, 45° by night and 55° to 65° by day,

Frusr Taxes to be planted with all speed; if delayed much longer, the ne
year’s crop may be lost, Fill in with soil in a friable condition, for no tr
prosper if the rvots are puddied in with wet pasty carth,

REENHOUSE to have as little fire-heat as will be safe, and to be kept as dry as
possible. On the occasion of a sudden’ frost, there is a tendency to get up a brisk
beat at night, and much harm is inflicted on piants by running the temperature up
to 60° or mo:e, and then leaving the fire to go out, so that by the morning they
are exposed to a temperature of 35° or less. She amateur must endeavour to avoid
such extremes. By a little watchfulness it may generally be known when frost
is to be expected; the fire should then be lighted early in the day, and allowed to
go very low at night, and be banked up the last thing, so as to burn slowly till
morning.

Kircuzn Garpen.—There ought not to be now a single square yard of unocen-
pied ground that ings not been dooply dug since the last crop was taken off. Deep
stirring and su ve frostings of the soil are immensely beneficial, and there will
never be much suecess in the culture of edibles where there is any fear of hard
work in winter. The out-door work of thig, month must be regulated by the
weather,

Musuzoom House to be kept as near 60° as ible. For a steady tempera-
rature will greatly prolong the bearing of the beds, buf if they are nearly at the end
of their productiveness, make up fresh beds at onee for succession. At this time

ae tend it will be necessary to make a new bed every month to insure a constant
supply.

Poratoxrs for planting may now be brought out from the store, and placed in
shallow baskets on dry moss or hay, and the baskets put in the full daylight in a

ition where frost cannot touch them. They soon green over, and when they

in to sprout the sprouts will be short, , plump, purple, and not liable to
snap off in the process of planting.

Baxuncuiyus and Anemones of common kinds for showy masses maybe planted
now, but choice aud valuable kinds must be kept in the drawers till the ing
of February, and in the meantime get the beds ready by deep trenching and laying
up the earth in ridges.

December.

376 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

RuvpBars and SEAKALE.—Those who have not begun to force should do so now,
either in the open ground or by potting. As a very mild heat suffices, this season’s
leaves and litter, if plentiful in bulk, will do as well to make up a bed for the
purpose as dung. If the latter is used, it should be turned three times before
making the bed, or the heat will be too fierce and too transient. ?

Roszs require protecting, and hitherto neglected, must have attention at once,
as we are now approaching the season of real winter. Plantations of Roses should
now be mulcbed with half-rotten dung, the looseness of which will protect the roots
from frost. Roses to be planted should be got in without delay while there is yet
a chance of fair weather, as if neglected now it will be better to defer planting till
the end of February.

HORTICULTURAL AFFAIRS.

E ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY’S EXHIBITION, on the
10th and 11th ultimo, was remarkably good, so far as the fruit was
concerned, but the chrysanthemums were exceedingly poor, for the
plants and cut blooms were alike few in number, and not first-class in
4 quality. The display of fruit = large, and oe magnificent
character. The grapes and pine-apples were plentiful and good, and of apples and
pears there were nearly two thousand dishes. One of the most remarkable con-
tributions to the gathering was a collection of about thirty Dracenas raised from
seed in the nurseries of Mr. John Wills, at Anerley. A gold medal was awarded
to the collection, and this, we understand, has been presented by Mr. Wills to his
talented manager, Mr. Bausé, who, it may be remembered, raised the remarkable
series of Coleus introduced to public notice a few years since. ,

Boroven or Hackney (Late Sroxe NewinctTon) CurysaANTHEMUM Socretr

held its annual exhibition on November the 16th and 17th, and, as usual, it was
emarkably successful, the display of cut blooms being very large and fine. A very

interesting feature of the show was an exhibition of watercresses by Mr. Shirley
Hibberd, illustrative of his system of pot-culture, a3 explained on another page.

Mr. anp Mrs. Sutrtzy Hissexp celebrated their silver wedding at their resi-
dence, Bridge House, Stoke Newington, on Tuesday, November 2nd, when a large
party of relatives and friends assembled to honour the occasion.

A TrstimonIAL to Mr, ALEXANDER McKenzizg, the horticultural superintendent
of the Alexandra Palace and Park, is in process of organization. It will have our
hearty support, and we hope very many of our friends will go with us, for it is high
time Mr. Mafpric's devotion to the public good met with wider and deeper recog-
nition than the ordinary course of business insures. ‘Tae honorary secretary is
J. Bertram, Esq., of the firm of Bertram and Roberts, Alexandra Palace, Muswell
Hill.

Mr. W. B. Hetmstey, the author of the “ Handbook of Hardy Trees, Shrubs,
and Herbaceous Plants,” has been appointed to the office of Librarian to the Lindley
Library at the Royal Horticultural Bociety. Mr. Helmsley will attend in the library
on Wednesdays in each week.

Miss Hassarp has wntten a charming book entitled, ‘¢ Floral Decorations for
the Dwelling House,” which will be published shortly by Messrs. Macmillan,
price ds.

Mr, Grorce Gorpon was on the 3rd ultimo entertained at a public dinner b

the East Tower Hamlets Horticultural Society, and presented with a valuable pin, ©

in recognition of the services rendered to the society by officiating as judge at its
exhibitions held during the past eight years.

“ HisrortaA Firicum”’ is the title of an admirable “ exposition of the nature,
number, and organography of ferns,’ by Mr. John Smith, ex-curator of the Royal
Gardens, Kew. s

“TIMBER AND Timper TrexEs” is the title of a work by Mr. H. T. Laslett,
announced as nearly ready by Messrs. Macmillan,

A Nartionat Horricutturay Socrery.—At the meeting of the Lindley Club on
Wednesday the 10th ultimo, Mr. D. T. Fish, of Hardwicke Hall, read a paper
embodying a series of proposals for the formation of a National Society.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 377

Tue Fruit or Pyrus (Cyponia) Japonica is sufficiently rare to warrant
mention of the fact that a crop has been ripened in the garden of Mr. Voight, Stoke
Newington. A sample before us has somewhat the appearance of a small sumple
of the French crab, The pleasant quince-like aroma of the fruit suggests t
proper culinary use for it, which is to flavour marmalade or make a preserve entire.

Sranparp CoronRAsTERS form an interesting feature in Messrs. T. Bunysrd &
Son’s nursery at Ashford. Cotoneaster Simonsi is worked on the common Thorn
stock, and the scion grows strongly and berries profusely, and makes a highly
ornamental plant for mixing in a choice sbrubbery border or standing singly on a
lawn. C. microphylla and C. thymifolia are also grafted in this way, but the best
is C. Simsonii, the berries of which are large, and are now of a brilliant orange-
red hue.

Tue Dap LEAVES IN THE Pusiic GARDENS oF Paris are, says a French paper,
given to the horticulturalists and growers of fruit and vegetables in the environs of
Paris, in exchange for a few plants, and they use them for their hot-beds. They
areat the cost of removing them, and the garden of the Tuileries furnishes about
100 loads. The leaves of the Champs Elysees, of which the quantity is double,
are utilized in the nursery of the City of Paris at Passy. Those of the Luxembourg
remain there, and are used to protect the more tender plants from the cold. Those
from the squares and other promenades or plantations are sent to the horticultural
establishment at Sévres. Lg

Larce Pranr Trers.—According to the Presse there are two gigantic Plane
Trees in the garden of Count Gozze at Canosa in Dalmatia. They are growing in
a sheltered situation, whence they were transplanted, it is reported, from Constan-
tinople, 300 years ago—about the date of the introduction of the Plane into Britain.
The size of these trees is so great that a battalion of soldiers might comfortably
encamp beneath the widely-spreading branches of one of them, which has a trunk
thirty feet in circumference. Six of the biggest men could scarcely span the trunk
with outstretched arms.

Vicroria Reeta.—According to “ Science pour Tousy’ an experiment was lately
made at the Botanic Gardens at Ghent, to determine the weight required to sub-
merge a leaf of the Victoria regia. A leaf was selected and weighted with bricks.
It was found that a load of 7 ewt., which is about equal to the weight of three
full-grown men of average height and size, was required to produce submersion.

GitBERT WuiTE oF SELBoRNE.—A very interesting series of unpublished letters
(ten in number), from the Rey. Gilbert White, author of the “ Natural History of
Selborne,’ to Robert Marsham, F.R.S., Stratton Strawless, were read by the
secretary of the Norfolk and Norwich Society, at their last monthly meeting. The
letters were written between Aug. 13, 1770, and June 15, 1773. The contents
consist of remarks on arboriculture; remarks on the rain‘all; gossip about birds
and insects; and the confirmation of Mr. Marsham’s supposed discovery of a bird
new to Britain, the Wall-creeper or Spider-catcher (Certhia musaria, Tichodrovia
musavia); extracts from his brother’s—the Rev. John White, of Gibraltar, who
resided there in 1756—unpublished “ Natural History of the Rock,” in which he
describes the difference between the Crag Swallow and the Sand Marten ; the former
he names ‘ Hirundo hyemalis,” from the great numbers that frequented Gibraltar
in the winter season. ‘The last letter of the series is dated June 14, 1773, and is
probably the last he ever wrote, as he survived only eleven days. It is the intention
of the Society to publich these interesting letters in the next part of their Transactions.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

W., East Yorkshire—The seedling geraniums should be kept in the small
pots until the spring, and then be shifted into five-inch pots. ‘The compost used
should be rather poor, because of their tendency to grow too luxnriantly to produce
flowers. They would bloom earlier in the season if left in the small pots, but the
flowers would in all probability be too small to show their true character. They
may be kept under glass. or be placed out of doors in a sunny situation, as may be
the most convenient. Whenunder glass they must be fully exposed to the sun, and
enjoy a free circulation of air about them,

December.

UW ae
ee

378 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

.

Name or Puant.—The specimen is not sufficient for identification, or we should

+

have been glad to oblige you.

A Keen Rosarian.—You would most likely do well in New Zealand, as you
appear to possess the right kind of knowledge to enable you to make head way.
We cannot, however, undertake the responsibility of advising you to emigrate to
that or any other country. All the best roses have been introduced to New Zealand,
and if you determine upon going there we should not advise you to burden yourself
with trees, for they require very careful packing to ensure their safe transmission.

Funaus on Limestons.— Emel is troubled with a growth of fungus which forms
round white spots on alimestone parapet. When the spots are scraped a pale green
appears underneath. She is advised to apply sulphuric acid, and asks for advice on
the subject. Now, as regards the application of sulphuric acid, we can advise
at once that its employment will be decidedly injurious, and in respect of its
adoption therefore we say Vo. But Emel will again ask how shal! I get rid of the
fungus? and we respond with another question—Why be uneasy about it ? why not
let it alone ? What makes the difference between glaring new stone that people
speak of as raw, and feel tronbled with because it is hard and sharp and cold, and
the comfortable old stone that time has coloured and softened and warmed and
beautified 2? See the new stonework in the mason’s yard, and then look at similar
work in one of Sir Joshua’s pictures, and demand of the philosophers an explanation
of the difference. We must be philosophers for Emel just now. Nature plants fungi
and lichens, and mosses, and liverworts, and ferns, and grasses, on limestone
surfaces, whether they are rough as rocks or smooth as works of art, ani these
humble vegetables ripen the balustrades, and urns, and steps, and all other stone-
work out of doors, and in so doing enhances their beauty. Our advice to Emel is to
leave the fungus alone and admire it. But if this is impossible, it may be advisable
to scrape and scrub it off with hot brine, after which it will not be likely to appear
again.

3 Caztapiums.—K.K.—The safest course will be to shake the corms out of the old
soil, and after they have been laid in a dry room or on ashelf in the plant stove
for a day or two, put them in pots and fill in the space between them with dry silver
sand. Ifthe soil is at all wet the corms will perish, and they will sometimes decay
when kept perfectly dry, but when buried in sand and placed in a temperature not
below 60°, but few will decay. The majority of the losses of corms during the
winter are caused by their being placed in a low temperature.

Uncamty Fucnsras.—F.S.—As the plants are so ungainly that they cannot
well be pruned into shape, we would advise you to prune them back to within s few
inches of the surface of the soil. This may be done at once, for convenience of
wintering them in a small space, and in the spring, when they commence the
season’s growth, and have shoots from one to two inches in length, turn them out of
the pots, shake away the greater portion of the soil, and put them in pots one or
two sizes smaller. They will push up strongly from the bottom, and in the course
of the season make splendid bushes.

Zonat PELARGONIUMS IN FRAMES.—Amateur.—As there is no means of heating
the frame by artificial means, the greatest care possible in watering will be necessary
to prevent their damping off. They should have but little, if any water, from now
until the middle of February next. They will not suffer any material injury if the
soil is allowed to become dust-dry, and remain so until the leaves flag.

ANTHERICUM VaRirGAtum.—Inquirer.—This is a pretty little greenhouse plant,
with elegant leafage marked with longitudinal bands of white. It was introduced
from the Cape of Good Hope about three years since, and has so far proved to be
perfectly hardy, but it will doubtless be best known as a. greenhouse or frame plant.
It may be grown to a comparatively large size in small pots, and ?s well adapted
for indoor decorations, in combination with dark red or deep green leafage. Any
ordinary potting compost will suit it, provided it is not too rich, and doubtless a
mixture consisting of equal parts turfy loam, peat, and leaf-mould will be found the
most suitable for promoting a free growth and developing the beautiful variegation.

Dracanas.— B.R.—Draceenas are most valuable for enlivening the plant stoves
during the winter season, as well as for decorative purposes generally, With the
convenience of a plant stove they are not difficult of cultivation. They grow freely
in a mixture of turfy loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand, A light position and
liberal supplies of water are alike desirable,

HO MAP 1972 .

aA ‘K
} Weare’
f