b> bgp tesa rehete tee | aT gladepemmmenere siavese serene vee Shonetet-astelaie ‘pe ceeee dee tee sepa lvielstered sone One eee ee sodddete fore tire te sess pistes slenewanenene Sas ete bere ase stabepetern seas ap rie tue vane Frit Secert sthanetegereiel! eyesen the cree ern eee Rie ere Dor aes FON FGFO He > Chen enD wera er ereee ee Some ey roy gov 6@> rts ytey 16 jogey-"aeer ents Fevetenser.e Boge rsoieserds : ayo we etane let y ie arehecelagetete eos Teatiebeiaten eng oleeas ieee hoe get eles wereene atebeh ie tone mn ogetere 2 ste one wh oa be . Nels tece ere téene e TT beter eiemereee arg te ee . et Wh eren ate c aiopengele seuss ite : * . . na oetetete ee oie hwretene rete a) Pre iy Se dee e eens Oo = 0 rte erere: ed aes aphiede Ver ehers ' shaiter hie Cee Ure jelacehe eequelionel orspeterenetene: sich: fetememes gi@'eiot Mowers ie ser epete hire prt ook VTE Relpdetete etess ie tele np pst ew iemere ets arr" FOtOle ni enrty ie wieimysie “Hessel ieee qeevagersie 4? ee pereradeedengs en ofa 8 “COtO @ vie ese euane ties Orerergler el eye on jaye a tO teee lotenele Thar vieee e os Ste aa sawisieee: abs tonehoneia's ore * ae: A eet ese erele Me tee mene Maijete’ Bore dte ieier Leetelane eres pisiny shanph ave tebe Iie eta parirlctotter Setar eet veretatar t2)tr4 ele ae me pie eee oe ae of -¢otet st@iedatener sine e Siietohe, fee Oi ; viSstaattegeregesesegrecetertaseetegessrsestaes pitts +s CTeabectee ssatbetss soeeeess sone iaguseyeionsgarecanate®: Soret M4 a, eectakacs otpeeeacs Lt es SS eaten hadageres peererry “shatheedsonesenss one: ‘44 Lt are, in 4h i . 4 4 ale. es oats ae 4 7 ae \ \ rn ! "Tr 7 aa) Ss sj 4 ' ~*~ I J ' = ‘J ° pe &4 | cory eee ee Sa ou - » bee Naar. ._ vv. * - % d ‘ i i ’ | oe « 4 oe \ THE CABINET, FLORISTS’ MAGAZINE. JANUARY TO DECEMBER, 1847. VOLUME XV. CONDUCTED BY JOSEPH HARRISON. LONDON : WHITTAKER AND CO., AVE MARIA LANE. —— 1847, Ta ore | AOC TAA ta Tee) e : : KOUMOL AAI AWAM IVK och CuK PREFACE. Tue rapid flight of time now proclaims to us that another year is closing, and that it is by the good providence of our Creator that we are permitted to arrive at the period when our last number of the fifteenth volume of the FroricuLTURAL CABINET is completed, and the annual Preface to it is to be presented to our readers. In many respects this is a pleasing duty, as we have to offer, as we now do, our very sincere thanks both to the subscribers for their kind patronage, and who, by calling for our successive labours, encourage us in prose- cuting them, and to our correspondents, whose very valuable assistance has so much contributed to the interest and value of the Magazine, and thereby enabled us to offer to the public another volume, being the first of the Turrp Serres, which we think is not unworthy of the two previous ones, but, in the selection of the newest and most hand- some flowers figured, the manner of their execution, subjects introduced and treated upon, as well as the arrangement of the whole, places it in a more elevated position than they. The successive numbers that form the volume to which this Preface is to be affixed have undergone the examination of our readers, and either been approved or otherwise, according to the varied views and tastes of the individuals. For an Editor to praise what he has done is not consistent with modesty, and publicly to censure what he has done, even if he thinks his labours defective, is scarcely to be expected in the present state of human nature. All that we feel disposed to say res- pecting the contents of the present volume is, that in preparation it has been our earnest and ceaseless desire, as much as possible, and as far as real ability would admit, to meet the wish of every class of our readers. It is gratifying to us to have to state that not a single complaint has been made to us through the year, but numerous assurances to the im- provements effected have been sent from persons whose opinions are iv ; PREFACE. entitled to the highest deference. The volume is concluded as those which preceded it have done, as we intend any future ones to do, and must speak for itself; we shall, therefore, leave it to explain and esta- blish its own merit. Nature is the general name adopted for all earthly things which are not the result of human labour and contrivance ; the works of Nature, therefore, abound in almost endless variety, and the science of botany may be considered to be the knowledge of Nature in her vegetable de- partment. In this vast and most interesting field there is ample range for the employment and improvement of every intellect. We shall attempt, in future, to direct the attention of our readers to this in- structive and truly delightful subject; and our most zealous efforts shall be employed to advance the art of Floriculture, as well as the science of whatever is connected therewith. To accomplish this, we again most respectfully solicit the assistance of our friends, and we feel assured, having that, the results will be approved. We very respect- fully acknowledge our obligations to them, and, in confidence of having future aid, we shall begin anew to evince our gratitude. To ourselves, Floriculture has a peculiar charm ; its practical results are not only delightful to the eye, but exhilirate the finer feelings, ex- pand the mind, and as every flower has a voice with which mankind may hold delightful and beneficial converse, we are anxious that others, with us, should derive the felicity they are designed to afford, tending, too, to raise the mind from the immensity and beauty of what this earth affords, to those brighter regions where the flowers never wither, droop, or die. Downham, November 21, 1846. ralen LAN yy Hie AT pide’ + heer Ad aie i rhe Merci agt Hen Fae be 4c) Witt 3 sl ia Liebe ianxides wis Tiny Speen he Mase mal ape eT, Te ssoutal wire) a a ott age iy 4 afer nle Nighy ert Te a ie i A Da eee ty stan ru Beaks a cogil Oy eae oa e ™ ace’ Paani ety vais, Ro a aa yy “paneer iss dake BH SORE f \ , har Cigendweh’t bee ick % a “p.2 drt HAT iy tal $ tie rp BE Tera, WES he tive nitara Fadi ih fet as athadshatity! rand Arbre Amie pthh eit id ai i tt us) Tea dite ae aut erbiyehiedt ten ahr did seer 2 gp pila Fobe vey atti is bie ede prri peas mua Pie Pee et OT a ic a Sa sean’ wi be Nai 4 ipcateiad' sag a. ae bat Aly ket é t pRye We RoC) F i Z UPCAAMMEE ie pcniihill ¢ E23 AS, mE D 4 _Scnhenauller HMlentend ILLUSTRATIONS. HE charming genus to which the plants belong ) that we have now the pleasure to figure is universally admired by all lovers of flowers. It is twenty- two years since the introduction of the first species, Leschenaultia formosum, which on its first display of rich flowers was most deservedly applauded ; and although there have been during that period an innumerable quantity of new plants of a similar class introduced into this country, it has each year increased as an object of admiration, and the plant, laden with its profusion of rich deep scarlet flowers, is yet one of the neatest orna- ments of the greenhouse. The Z. oblata was introduced the following year, a similar shrub, the flowers of which are of an orange red colour. In 1839, some handsome species were sent from the Swan River colony, including Z. biloba, the very lovely, large, blue flow- ered, of erect habit, anda free bloomer; LZ. laricina, the Larch- leaved, a neat dwarfish plant, the flowers of which are of a violet- purple colour; Z. glauca, a similar variety, but the flowers are in colour a mixture of red and yellow. All the above species are hand- some, but those which form the subjects of our illustrations in the present number very much excel them. Mr. James Drummond discovered LESCHENAULTIA SPLENDENS—T3BE spLENDID LESCHENAULTIA, In the Swan River colony, and transmitted some of its seeds to Messrs. Lucombe, Pince, and Co., nurserymen of Exeter, who have succeeded in raising plants, which have bloomed beautifully the past season. In its native situation it forms a bushy shrub, growing about two feet high. It is supposed that this is the species which Mr. Drummond, in describing, states its flowers vary much in colour, * having blood-red, rose, white, pink, scarlet, lilac, and purple, of Vol. xv. No, 1.—JV.S. A 2 ILLUSTRATIONS—LESCHENAULTIA, the same species on different plants.” There is much gracefulness in the growth of the plant, and being naturally liberally furnished with branches it soon becomes a handsome bush; and when its copious profusion of brilliant flowers are in full display at once, and continue for along period, few plants of its size can vie with it in brilliancy :—such it appeared to us. LESCHENAULTIA ARCUATA—TueE Droopine LESCHENAULTIA, Was also raised by Messrs. Lucombe, Pince, and Co. from seed sent by Mr. Drummond from the Swan River colony, and bloomed pro- fusely in the greenhouse during last summer. It is a dwarfish, prostrate, half-shrubby, branching plant, the shoots bending down- wards. It is a free bloomer, and when a number of its large flowers are in display forms a deserving companion to ZL. splendens. The skill of the culturist has of laté effected much improvement in the growth of Leschenaultias. But a few years since plants a foot high, and the same in breadth, were considered wonderful specimens ; now, however, our floral exhibitions are graced with them thrice that size. In order to insure successful growth it is necessary to remark that all newly obtained soils from the pasture or heath must not be used, because, in such a state, they are too acrid, or, as it is termed, raw, for the delicacy of the plant. The materials for compost ought to be well incorporated together for at least six months previous to using, by its being turned over and chopped two or three times during the period. In the following kind of compost the plant grows ina vigorous and healthy state, and is that usually employed by the best exhibitors at the metropolitan shows. Equal portions of rough turfy sandy peat, and rich light turfy loam ; to which is added a quarter of leaf mould, and a quarter of silver sand, pieces of charcoal, broken pot, stones, &c, These are by turning over, as before stated, well mixed together. In a compost of this kind, and by the following treatment, four species were grown to a state of perfection we have not seen surpassed. In March, 1843, four healthy plants, each of a different species, which were growing in 32-sized pots, were obtained, and re- potted into 24’s, having an inch and a half, or two inches deep of broken pots for dramage, over which some pieces of chopped sod were laid, and then filled up with the compost above described, care being taken to keep the crown of the roots as high as the rim of the pot, so that the water might drain slightly away from the stem, which is very susceptible of injury where an excess of wet is allowed to remain, and this it is that has often occasioned the sudden death of a plant. After potting, the plants were placed in a light and airy part of the greenhouse, judicious attention to watering being always given—a point in their culture requiring care, to vary the supply according to the necessities of the plant; in its growing condition it must not be allowed to droop for want, but when the season of rest comes only as much water as will keep the soil mozst, not wet, should be applied. Another very necessary requisite is to have the plants in alight situation, near to the glass, and where a liberal portion of air NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. 3 is admitted. About the middle of July the pots being filled with roots, the plants were again re-potted, keeping the balls entire; they were retained in the greenhouse until the end of August, when they were removed toa sheltered situation for a month, in order to harden the shoots and prepare them for winter’s cooler temperature. This is the only period of the year they should be allowed to be out of the green- house, or suitable brick pit, as the convenience for their habitation may be. During winter they were kept in a cool, not frosty, light situation of the house. In March following they were again re- potted into 16-sized pots, and in August into 8’s, in which they haye subsequently bloomed, and were specimens of first-rate excellence. The last March a portion of the ball of each was taken away, and some fresh compost added, and during the past season received the admiration of all who saw them, not only being plants of large size, but literally covered with bloom, and amply repaying for the attention paid to their management. In order to keep up a youthful succession, to replace the results of deformity and death by old age and casualties, each spring a plant or two should be put in course of preparation. Those kinds, as LZ. biloba, which are not naturally so bushy as LZ. formosa, &c., may be rendered more so by often stopping the side shoots, allowing the central one to proceed to the height it is desired to have the bush ultimately. NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. Acacta masta—Mournine WATTLE. Fabaceae. Polygamia Monecia. Tuts is a greenhouse evergreen shrub, haying its short pinnatifid - foliage of a very dark, dull green colour, but like most of its tribe it is a very ornamental plant, and bears a profusion of fragrant lovely yellow blossoms, hanging pendant in masses, producing a beautiful effect. Each raceme is near an inch long. We do not know where it _ is to be procured, but it certainly deservesto be grown. Scarcely any plants are more to be admired for the sitting-room than Acacias, their growth and foliage being neat and elegant. Figured in Bot. Reg., p. 67. ANSELLIA AFRICANA—AFRICAN ANSELLIA. Orchidacea. G'ynandria Monandria. Mr. Ansell, a gardener, who went from England with the Niger expedition, discovered this plant in the Island of Fernando Po, grow- ing upon a palm tree. It has bloomed beautifully in the collection of Messrs. Loddiges, of Hackney, where it grows admirably in pots filled with decayed sphagnum moss, The flowers are produced in large terminal panicles, each blossom being about two and a half inches across, green marked and blotched very beautifully with dark brown velvet; labellum, pink and yellow. It isa noble plant, well deserving to be in every collection of Epiphytical Orchids. Figured in Bot. Leg., p. 30, and Pax, Mag. Bot., Dec. A 2 ~ 4 NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. CaMPANULA NOBILIS—NoBLE BELL-FLOWER. Campanulacee. Pentandria Monogynia. A hardy herbaceous plant, sent from Chusan and Shanghae in China by Mr. Fortune, the Horticultural Society’s collector. Its root leaves are deeply heart-shaped, of a bright pale green, and placed on footstalks from six to nine inches long, forming a large tuft. From among them, and to more than twice their height, rises the flowering stem, branching a little at the bottom, and upon its divisions pro- ducing several fine nodding flowers, perhaps the largest yet seen among the genus Campanula. ‘They are something like those of Canarina, nearly three inches long, and one and a half in diameter. The corolla is light purple on the outside, but paler within, being almost flesh colour, abundantly spotted on both sides with bright rosy purple. It bears considerable affinity to the Canterbury Bell (C. medium), although it is perfectly distinct, and a very handsome ad- dition to the flower-garden. Like most of the tribe, it is said to re- quire a copious supply of water during its period of growth in the spring months. It is increased easily by dividing the roots, and probably by seeds also. Figured in Bot. Reg. CLEMATIS TUBULOSA—TUBULAR-FLOWERED VIRGIN’s Bower. Ranunculacee. Polyandria Polygynia. An upright branching plant, growing two feet high. It is a native of Northern China, and is grown in the greenhouse in this country. The flowers are produced in axillary and terminal corymbs of a bluish-purple. It is a pretty species, each blossom being about an inch across. Figured in Bot. Mag., p. 4269. C2LOGYNE OCHRACEZ—OCHRE-SPOTTED CALOGYNE. Orchidaceae. Gynandria Monandria. From the Indian Mishmee Hills, where it is common. It has. bloomed in the collection of Thomas Brocklehurst, Esq., of the Fence, near Macclesfield. The flowers are produced in erect racemes of about six in each. They are a pure white, with bright orange blotches on the lip; they are very fragrant too. Figured in Bot. Reg., p. 69. EscaLLoniA OrRGANENSIS—OrGAN Mountain EscALLlonia. Escalloniacee. Pentandria Monogynia. Messrs. Veitch received this plant from Mr. Lobb, their collector, who discovered it on the Organ Mountains. It is a shrub, growing about a yard high, the stems and branches being of a rich red-brown colour. The flowers are produced in terminal cymes, of a deep rose with a white eye. The tubular part of the flower is about a quarter of an inch long, and across the top (limb) nearly half an inch. It is very distinct from the sorts previously in our collections. FRANCISCEA AUGUSTA—AUGUST FRANCISCEA.« Scrophulariacee. Didynamia Angiospermia. A fine evergreen stove shrub, with narrow elliptical leaves, and par- il, le il NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. 5 taking much in the character of growth of 2°. acuminata. ‘The flowers are of a rich blue-purple colour, more than an inch across, and pro- duced in corymbs said to be even larger than those of LE. hydran- geformis. It is in some of the London nurseries. HELIOPHILA TRIFIDA—TRIFID-LEAVED HELIOPHILA. Brassicaceae. Tetradynamia Siliquosa, A native of the Cape of Good Hope, from which it was introduced in 1819, and is known also by the name of H. pinnata. It is a half hardy herbaceous annual, and does well in the greenhouse, or if raised in pots, and turned out in the open borders in May. It grows about a foot high, branching, and produces a profusion of spikes of lovely blue flowers, having a white centre. Each blossom is three quarters of an inch across. Figured in Bot. Qeg., p. 64. Hoya IMPERIALIS—IMPERIAL Hoya, Asclepiadacee. Pentandria Digynia. This, it is said, is the most noble climbing plant ever introduced into this country. It bears large clusters of flowers, of a most beau- tiful white waxy texture, similar to the well-known lovely H. carnosa, except that the tiara-like rays in the centre are more of a bright purple than crimson colour. Each separate flower, we are informed, mea- sures three inches across, and being grouped together in large umbels their appearance must be surpassingly magnificent. It was discovered in Borneo by Mr. Low, jun., who some time ago went out purposely to collect plants for the Clapton Nursery establishment. In remark- ing upon it, in a letter from Sarawak, dated 12th January, 1646, Mr. Low observes, ‘‘ On the next day, when in the territory of the Gumbang Dyaks, I found another curious plant, belonging to Ascle- piads; it is an epiphytal climber; there was but one individual, growing from the decayed part of a tree, also overhanging the river. The flowers are large and in umbels ; the leaves are leathery, and the stem abounds in a white, perhaps acrid juice. The contrast between the purple of the petals and the ivory white of the parts of fructifica- tion renders it highly beautiful.”” The leaves are lanceolate, six inches long, and the stems woolly. It is an invaluable plant, and we hope soon to see every stove ornamented with it. HypRoLeEA SPINOSA—SPINY HypDRro.Lea. Hydroleacee, Pentandria Digynia. A mest beautiful and neat growing evergreen greenhouse shrub, introduced many years ago, but from an entirely inexplicable cause, for it is of easy multiplication by cuttings and grows freely, it is still a somewhat rare plant. It forms a compact bush, about a foot high and as much across. The flowers, produced with remarkable free- dom, are of a lovely bright blue colour, rather larger, but of a similar shape to, Anagallis Monelli. It deserves to be grown in every greenhouse, and will also, especially on account of its colour, of which there is a deficiency, be found a valuable acquisition in the 6 NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. summer flower garden, where it will succeed well if planted in a mix- ture of sandy peat and vegetable mould. Figured in Pax. Mag. Bot., Dec. IMPATIENS PLATYPETALA—BROAD-PETALLED BALSAM. Balsaminacee. Pentandria Monogynia. Messrs. Veitch imported this very pretty flowering species from Jaya. It is a perennial plant, and requires to be treated similar to Gloxinias, Achimenes, &c. It was exhibited during the last summer at one of the Horticultural shows at Chiswick, and much admired. It blooms profusely, and so open are the beautiful rose coloured flowers, as somewhat to resemble Achimenes grandiflora, Each blossom is about an inch and a half across. It flowers the greater part of summer if kept from drying winds. It increases freely by cuttings. Figured in Bot. Reg., p. 68. Lyonra JAMAICENSIS—JAMAICA LyontA. Ericacee. Decandria Monogynia. A pretty wild plant, known in some gardens under the names of Andromeda fasciculata and A. Jamaicensis. It inhabits the high mountains in Jamaica, and forms a moderate sized shrub, branching freely and blooming profusely. The flowers are produced at the axils of the leaves, in close racemes of an inch long, and in colour are waxy white, slightly tinged with green and blush. Figured in Bot. Mag., p: 4273. ODONTOGLOSSUM HASTILABIUM—HALBERT-LIPPED ODONTOGLOSSUM. Orchidaceae. Gynundria Monandria, A lovely Orchideous plant wholly new to our collections. It is from South America, where Mr. Purdie gathered it in the woods. The flowers are produced on racemes numerously, each blossom being about three inches across; sepals and petals rather narrow, green beautifully marked with transverse purple lines and dots. The stem (column) of the labellum is purple, and the lip which spreads out broad is a pure white. They are highly fragrant. Figured in Bot, Mag. p. 4272. Satvia CaMerTONII—CaMERTON’s SAGE. Labiate. Diandria Monogynia. This is a very distinct and handsome kind, with bright crimson flowers nearly as large as those of S. fulgens. The leaves are about an inch and a half long, of a light green colour, and possess an agree- able scent. ‘The plant is of compact habit, and forms a bush from one and a half to two feet high. It has bloomed with us, and is well worthy of recommendation, especially for budding in the summer flower garden. ScuTELLARIA VENTENATI—VENTENAT’S SKULL-CAP. Labiate. Didynamia Gymnospermia, Mr. Purdie sent this new species to the Royal Gardens at Kew, wry eo ACHIMENES AND OTHER GESNERACEOUS PLANTS. a from Santa Martha. It is a perennial herbaceous plant, and has bloomed beautifully in the greenhouse. The stems are erect, simple or branched, two feet high. The flowers are produced in long ter- minal racemes. Each blossom is an inch long, tube formed with a large capped end. They are of a rich deep scarlet, very bright and showy. No doubt it will make a beautiful plant for the flower garden during summer, forming highly ornamental masses in beds. Figured in Lot. Mag., p. 4211. SwartnsontA GreYANA—CapTAIN Grey’s SwAINSONIA. Fabaceae, Diadelphia Decandria. From New Holland, and is a very showy half herbaceous plant, sent to the Horticultural Society, in whose garden at Chiswick it has bloomed. The flowers are produced in long racemes very profusely, they are of a rosy-purple colour, with a white eye. It blooms during the summer and autumn in the greenhouse. Fig. in Bot. Reg., p. 66. ACHIMENES AND OTHER GESNERACEOUS PLANTS. GENERAL TREATMENT. BY WILLIAM CHITTY, STAMFORD-HILL. Durine the past summer I was visited by a Yorkshire reader of your Magazine, who was so much pleased with the appearance of some of my Achimenes and other Gesneraceous plants as to suggest it might be useful if I would transmit to you, for insertion in the Cabinet, an account of the mode of culture adopted, and although much excellent information has already been communicated in your own and other publications on this subject, especially, I may mention, some very valuable remarks by a neighbour of mine in the early part of the present year (vol. xiv., p. 118), yet as my mode of treatment of these plants is somewhat different, and as I flatter myself I am tolerably successful in their management, I readily assent to the suggestion, and beg you to permit me to contribute my mite of information to the general fund. There is no tribe of plants with which I am acquainted so well calculated for permanent decoration in the greenhouse throughout the summer months, as the different species and varieties of Sinningia, Gloxinia, Achimenes, and the summer-flowering kinds of Gesneria. I say, permanent decoration, because if previously to their introduc- tion into the greenhouse (say about the last week in May or early in June) they have received proper treatment, each individual plant will invariably continue to flower from the time of such introduction until the end of September or beginning of October. To Gloxinias parti- - cularly this remark applies ; and no plants can make a more charm- ing display than they do when well furnished with their rich pubes- cent foliage, and a good proportion of beautiful flowers ; these inter- mixed with the shining-leaved Sinningia, ornamented with its curiously spotted or self-coloured flowers, and the very distinct and 8 ACHIMENES AND OTHER GESNERACEOUS PLANTS. charming colours of the various Achimenes. And the culture of the plants is withalso simple, that no one need be deterred therefrom by fear of not succeeding who possesses the ordinary convenience of a stove, or, for lack of a stove, a common frame heated by fermenting manure or other material. When I remove my Gloxinias from the greenhouse to make room for its proper inmates, usually the first week in October, I cut off the tops close to the bulb, considering it preferable to do so than allow them to die down, because they are apt to rot and carry decay into the heart of the bulb; after this I place the pot on a shelf in the stove, where they receive no water throughout the entire winter until they are repotted in February, March, or April, according as the circum- stances of their growth may indicate it to be necessary to perform that operation ; for notwithstanding they are kept perfectly free from moisture, and the heat in which they are placed does not average more than 58 or 60 degrees, they will soon after they are cut down begin again to grow, and continue slowly so to do throughout the winter, and by the time potting season arrives some of them frequently have formed fine heads three or four inches in height, and five or six inches in diameter, ready to start with the utmost vigour when they shall be stimulated by the application of fresh soil, water, and an in- crease of heat. By the beginning of February I pot a few of the strongest, that seem by their forward growth absolutely to require it ; but the general potting I defer until the end of the month cr begin- ning cf March. The soil I employ consists of equal parts of rough turfy bog earth and well rotted leaf mould, fully incorporated with about one-twelfth of white sand; this year I also added a good pro- portion of potsherds broken small, and my plants have, in conse- quence, been unusually fine, the particles of pot not only rendering the soil open and accessible to the roots of the plants, but forming so many reservoirs of moisture and nutriment. In potting I rub most of the old soil off the roots, and place them at once in the pots in which [ intend them to flower, taking care to ensure thorough drain- age. Iam not partial to shifting unless I find any pushing with unusual vigour, and promising to make extra fine specimens, in which case I remove them into pots two sizes larger. When the whole are potted they receive a copious watering, and in two or three days, if a moist genial heat is kept up, their fine roots may be perceived spread- ing on the surface of the mould, a certain indication they are thriving, subsequent attention to watering when necessary, frequent syringing, and maintaining a genial heat, is efficient to cause the plants to pro- gress with great vigour, and by the end of May or beginning of June the plants will begin to expand their blossoms, when they are at once removed to the greenhouse there to display and continue their beauties throughout the summer. The mode of treatment I pursue with Gesnerias and Sinningias is similar to the above, but with Achimenes some difference in shifting is necessary to be observed. I will therefore remark that I cut them down as soon as the tops decay, and place them on a shelf in the stove, where they remain perfectly free from moisture in the same ia St VEGETABLE PHYSIOLOGY. 9 pots until returning growth in the spring has been resumed, and the young shoots have attained an inch in height. I then divide them, inserting four plants into a 54-sized pot, placing them close to the edge, and using precisely the same compost as for Gloxinias; when potted I set them in the warmest part of the stove as near the glass as possible, where, with attention to watering, frequent syringing, &c., they grow very fast, and in three weeks or a month the pots become filled with their roots; they are consequently at once removed into the pots in which they are to bloom, some into 32’s, others into 24’s and 12’s, as occasion may require. In shifting at this time I sepa- rate the.plants, retaining equal portions of the ball to each, and place them about an inch from the sides of the larger pot ; this not only enables the roots to shoot with greater vigour into the fresh soil, but affords ample room for the growth of the lateral shoots, and their arrangement by tying, &c. When the flower-buds become prominent, the plants are removed into the greenhouse to bloom, where, having more air, they develope their flowers with greater perfection than in the stove, and continue for a longer time to enliven the house by their beauty. VEGETABLE PHYSIOLOGY. THE STEMS AND LEAVES OF PLANTS. BY J. TODD, DENTON GARDENS, LINCOLNSHIRE. Tue roots of plants, with their functions, having been described in a previous article (pages 25-277, vol. xiv.), the stems aud leaves come next under consideration. The stem, in its most usual form, is that of a cylindrical column, differing from the root in its tendency to seek light and air, and in its being the immediate seat of those beau- tiful appendages, the leaves and flowers. The leaves are flat expan- sions of the cortical integument or bark, from which, however, in European plants, they are mostly articulated, and after the lapse of a few months fall away, others in due time being produced from those buds which are always developed in their axils. In bulbs, grasses, and all flowerless plants, the leaves have no distinct point of separa- tion, being only disengaged from the parent structure by putrefaction. The stem serves as a sort of conduit, through which the moisture ab- sorbed by the roots is transmitted to the leaves; it also serves to elevate the latter into the most favourable position for receiving the full influence of light, heat, and air, (a circumstance in plant culture of much importance,) the presence of which is indispensable to the perfect consummation of their function, viz., the conversion of the crude and watery fluid imparted to them into an inspissated and nourishing sap. In making a transverse section of a branch or stem of any of our ordinary trees or shrubs, such as the common Hazel (Corylus Avel- lana) for example, we perceive it to consist of three distinct parts, usually known as pith, wood, and bark. The pith arises from the collar, or that point which scparates the root from the stem, and 10 VEGETABLE PHYSIOLOGY. occupies the centre of the latter from one extreme to the other. It is a spongy substance called cellular tissue, because it consists of little bags or cells. It constitutes the chief of all young shoots, and in them has always a greenish tinge, from these little cells being filled with a fluid of that colour; but as the shoots advance in age this fluid gra- dually disappears, and ultimately the pith becomes white. It is one of the simplest forms of vegetable tissue, and the most rapid in its development ; it is, therefore, well adapted to the end for which it appears to be chiefly designed, viz., to act as a reservoir of nourish- ment upon which the tender leaves and vessels of immature shoots may feed, till they can obtain a more perfect means of supply. Beneath the bark, and only separated from the pith by the medul- lary sheath, (an exceedingly delicate membrane, consisting of spiral vessels containing air, and forming a very thin layer round the pith, ) we find the layers of wood, each of which is the growth of one year, consequently their number indicates the age of the tree. This only holds good, however, in trees of temperate and extreme northern and southern latitudes, where the powers of vegetation are for a time sus- pended; because in the more congenial climate of the tropics the trees experience no such check upon their vital energies, and, conse- quently, their annual growth is less distinctly marked, the wood of one year seeming to pass imperceptibly into that of another. In glancing at the cross section of the stem of the Hazel above cited, it will be seen that its anuual zones are radiated by fine lines passing from the centre to the circumference. These lines are called medul- lary rays. They consist of thin vertical plates, of the same kind of tissue as the pith, of which, in fact, they are a lateral extension, establishing a connexion between the interior of the stem and _ the bark. The inner and outer sides of each annual layer of wood differ somewhat in their character. That side lying nearest the pith is com- posed chiefly of sap-vessels or ducts, organized in the early part of the summer, from a viscid fluid called cambium, which is secreted, in the spring, between the bark and the wood. Through these vessels the sap, taken up by the roots, ascends to the leaves. That side of the woody layer lying nearest the bark is of a more compact texture, being composed of woody fibre, elaborated and sent down by the leaves much later in the summer. It isa very firm tissue, and gives to the stem great mechanical strength. The bark is the external covering of the stem, and has justly been termed the universal leaf of a vegetable, because in it the proper juice of a plant receives its final elaboration. It is provided with a system of branching vessels analogous to those which are seen on the under surface of a leaf. Through these vessels the elaborated sap is con- yeyed, and thence, by means of the medullary rays, to every part of the system. The distribution of the proper juices of a plant furnish a fine display of Divine intelligence. Some of it is expended in the production of new layers of wood, some in the production of new branches; the leaves require a definite quantity, so also do the flowers and fruits; a portion is also sent downward to the root, and — BRITISH PLANTS, 1} appropriated to its elongation and to the development of additional fibres, and better to enable the stem to support the ever-increasing weight above, a quantity is deposited in the cells and vessels about its centre; and, lastly, it is secreted in great profusion by the new wood and bark to form cambium, and to nourish, in the spring, the newly- opening buds, until the roots are called into activity. The leaves, as has been before observed, are flat expansions of the bark. They are usually supported upon foot-stalks, and consist of a principal vein or mid-rib, whose ramifications form a sort of net-work, the interspaces of which are filled with cellular tissue. And then, better to protect their juices from excessive evaporation, the whole is covered with a thin skin or cuticle, studded with innumerable minute orifices (stomata), which open and close in conformity to the vicissi- - tudes of the climate, and serve to regulate the amount of exhalation, &c. They are to a plant what the stomach is to an animal; for as the food taken into the stomach of the latter undergoes a series of chemical actions, its nutritive chyle being separated and taken up by the lacteal vessels, and thence, by means of the thoracic duct, to the blood-vessels, wherein it circulates and ministers to the growth and sustenance of the whole body; so the food conveyed into the leaves of a plant is also subjected to chemical action. By the agency of light its water is decomposed, and the superfluous portion (in some plants about four-fifths of the whole quantity introduced) passed off by exhalation ; and the remainder, after receiving the necessary con- stituents from the atmosphere, is returned in the shape of proper juice, through the veins of the leaves to those of the bark, and thence by the medullary rays to every part of the structure. BRITISH PLANTS: WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THEIR CULTURE, BY W. JOHNSTONE, ESQ., BALLYKILBEG HOUSE. Pernars in these few remarks there may be nothing very new; and we are convinced that the flowers selected are not the only ones de- serving of attention, if, indeed, many others are not much more so; but they are simply selected because with them we have some small acquaintance, and with a hope that, by making a commencement, deficient of merit though it be, to induce others, more capable and better qualified, to come forward with their pens in behalf of the very lovely floral beauties of this our own dear sea-girt isle. Tam convinced that many rich gems might be added to the garden parterres from our meads, marshes, and mountains, which are heed- lessly pulled and cast away by some rustic wanderer, or bloom un- noticed in the habitations of those birds of the waste, the bittern and ‘ptarmigan. : If many a native flower that now springs up, blooms, and withers away, unheeded and uncared for, were trausferred to the soil of the garden, where art, with her fostering hand, would be ready to assist 12 BRITISH PLANTS. nature, we should have plants which might fairly challenge com- parison with the showy beauties of warmer climes. Any one knows what has been done with the Primrose, the Daisy, the Pansy, and the Violet; and if some patriotic lover of nature would transfer some of the botanical ornaments of ovr hills and dales to his garden beds, and deyote to them a moderate share of time and attention, I am con- fident that very much might be done, and that the devotion of such time would be repaid in the production of such lovely novelties as the imagination has not yet pictured, and would confer a very. great benefit on the horticultural world in general. Tne object would not be at all d‘fficult of attainment, and I hope many fair ladies, with their tender hands, may he induced thus to effect the removal of sume _ of our own sweet flowers from their wild homes beside the mountain stream and woodland glade. Cypripedium calceolus.—This lovely plant is certainly the queen of British Orchids, and it is to be Jamented it is so rare. It is gene- rally said to be an ‘‘ inhabitant of woods in the north of England,” but we question if plants of it could be procured at all in the wild state, or in their native habitat. So very rare is it, that we are in- formed by a gentleman who has a large clump in his possession, that C. parviflorum has been frequently shown for it at the Edinburgh exhibitions. Now, independently of the superior size of C. calceolus, which is nearly double that of C. parviflorum, the calyx of the former is yellowish-green, while that of the latter is greenish-brown—in mature specimens brown with green tips. Cypripedium calceolus flowers about the middle of May. The clump already mentioned is growing in sandy peat, and has not been moved for twenty years. Melittis melisophyllum.—In general appearance this plant is not unlike the Sages. Though it has nothirg very remarkable about it, yet it is well worthy of a place in the flower-garden. During June and July its pretty pink and white blossoms form no mean object of attraction, though, on its leaves being handled, the same unpleasant perfume common to the dea or dead-nettle (Lamium purpureum), may be perceived.” It should be grown in good loam, and propagated by dividing the roots, by cuttings struck in heat, and, perhaps, by seeds, but this I have not yet ascertained. Pinguicula grandiflora —Few of our flowering plants, or, indeed, those of most other countries, surpass in simple loveliness the present subject of our remarks. Hooker says, ‘ This plant, apparently as rare on the Continent as in Britain, and perfectly distinct from P. vulgaris, may be easily cultivated for a number of years. The old leaves die away in winter, and buds, or hybernacula, are formed, which expand into perfect individuals in spring. Few plants exhibit a more beau- tiful appearance early in the year than a cluster of Pinguicula grandi- flora, blossoming under the shelter of a common frame.” It may be raised from seed. I have found P. vulgaris growing in rotten blocks of wood, kept always moist by a mountain rivulet. P. lusitanica, with its pretty pale lilac blossoms, is found on the Mourne Moun- tains. If a cross could be effected between this and grandiflora, as it is highly probable it might, so as to have the size of grandiflora ATMOSPHERICAL CHANGES INDICATED BY PLANTS. 13 with the colour of lusitanica, it would be a lovely addition to this tribe. Tulipa Sylvestris.—This, our native type of an extensive genus, is, as its name implies, a native of the woodlands. TI believe that, in common with Tulipa Clusiana, it changes its position by forming bulbs at the extremity of long fibrous roots, descending from the old root. It flowers a month earlier than the garden sort, and is con- siderably smaller, of a pale yellow or canary colour, having the ex- terior of the three outside petals, or calyx, greenish. It is a delicate looking plant, and is particularly interesting as belonging to the British flora. I have transferred Orchis latifolia from a ditch to a bed in‘my garden, which is considerably lower than the surrounding ones, and it has succeeded admirably. All the Orchids are worth trying. Saxifraga oppositifolia, with its lovely little pinkish-lilac flowers, produced in March, is also a very desirable plant for a rockery or flower-bed. Many others might be enumerated ; however, I will not at present trespass further on the pages of the Casiner, but hope some one will favour me, and its numerous other readers, with articles on this subject, and that my humble efforts may be the means of in- ducing some competent person to take it in hand, when I trust in a brief space of time to see our too long neglected native plants occu- pying their proper position in every garden throughout the land. ATMOSPHERICAL CHANGES INDICATED BY PLANTS, BY ANAEL. Closed is the pink-ey’d Pimpernel, ‘Twill surely rain; I see with sorrow, Our jaunt must be put off to-morrow.’ —Jenner. An attentive observer of ;nature gathers many a useful lesson and many a practical observation from objects, that, to the vain or ordinary observer, are allowed to occur unheeded; and whilst our scientific men are exploring the solar system, to unravel the mystery of the many aérial phenomena, and predict the changes that are daily and hourly occurring, it is pleasing to remind the more modest lover of nature, that beneath his feet, and surrounding him on every side, are objects replete with information and interest, affording many singu- larly beautiful and curious facts connected with the changes of the weather. The vegetable kingdom was the calendar in which the great Linnzeus examined as a directory of the seasons, and which he exhorted his countrymen to observe, with all care and diligence, as the surest guide by which to direct their operations in the field and garden, “Why,” says Pliny, (Wat. Hist., b. xxiii., ch. 25,) “does the hus- bandman look up to the stars, of which he is ignorant, whilst every hedge and tree point out the season by the fall of their leaves?” A circumstance indicating the temperature of the air in every climate, showing whether the season be early or late, and constituting an uni- 14 ATMOSPHERICAL CHANGES INDICATED BY PLANTS. versal rule for the whole world. The minor changes in the atmo- sphere, with which our variable climate makes us so familiar, are so accurately foretold by many plants, that the attention devoted to its consideration will be amply repaid by the discovery of such interest- ing properties. “ Flowers shrinking from the chilly night Droop and shut up, but with fair morning’s touch Rise on their stems all open and upright.”—Montague. The sensitive indications developed by the common Pimpernel (Anagallis arvensis) are so well known, that it has been entitled * The Poor Man’s Weather-glass.” It is «Of humble growth, though brighter dyes, But not by rural swains less prized, The trailing stems allure Of Pimpernel; whose brilliant flower Closes against the approaching shower, Warning the swain to sheltering bower, From humid air secure.’’—Moral of Flowers. Its bright tiny flowers close some hours before the occurrence of rain, and “go to sleep,” or close up soon after noon, expanding again at seven in the morning. The Germander Speedwell (Veronica Chameedrys), so universal a favourite in every hedge-row, closes its lovely blue flowers on the ap- proach of rain, and as surely opens them again when the storm is overpast. “ Not for thy azure tint, though bright, Nor form so elegantly light, I single thee, thou lovely flower, From others of the sylvan bower,— Thy name alone is like a spell, And whispers love, in “ ‘ Speed-thee-Well.’ ”’ It is observed that if the Siberian Sowthistle shuts at night, there will generally ensue fine weather on the next day; and if it opens, cloudy and rainy. If the single African Marygold remain shut after seven A.M., rain may be expected. If the Trefoil contract its leaves during the day, heavy rain generally ensues; and Lord Bacon has observed, that its stalk is more erect against rain. The common Chickweed (Stellaria media), in fine weather, sup- ports its flowers upright, and open from nine in the morning until noon; but if it rains they remain closed, after rain they become pendant. This plant, it is said, affords ‘‘ a remarkable instance of the sleep of plants, for every night the leaves approach in pairs, in- cluding within their upper surfaces the tender rudiments of the new shoots; and the uppermost pair but one at the end of the stalk is furnished with longer leaf-stalks than the others, so that they can close upon the terminating pair and protect the end of the branch.” The Purple Sandwort (Arenaria rubra) is another example of a true prophet prior to a coming shower. The flowers, a beautiful rosy-purple, expand themselves only when the sun shines, and close again when the shades of evening draw in, or before a coming shower. ATMOSPHERICAL CHANGES INDICATED BY PLANTS. 15 “ Among the loose and arid sands The humble Arenaria creeps ; Slowly the purple star expands, But soon within its calyx sleeps.”—Agnes Strickland. The great white ox-eye (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum), fore- telling the coming storm, closes its flowers. “ There gay Chrysanthemums repose, And when stern tempests lower, Their silken fringes softly close, Against the shower.”—Agnes Strickland. The Goat’s-beard (Tragopogon pratensis) will not, in cloudy weather, unclose its petals. ** Broad o’er the imbricated cup The Goat’s-beard spreads its go'den rays; But shuts its cautious petals up, Retreating from the noontide blaze.” —C. Smith. This plant has obtained the name of “ John go to bed at noon;’’, and the farmers’ boys, in some parts of the country, it is said, know- ing this, regulate their dinner time by the closing of the Tragopogon. The Gentianella (Gentiana acaulis) is sensibly affected by ap- proaching moisture in the atmosphere :— ‘“¢ Oh, would my heart were like to thine, Thou dark and lovely flower, Open whene’er the sun doth shine, But closed against the shower ; Gladly receiving all that’s bright, Refusing all that’s ill, Conscious of tempest and of blizht, But pure and shielded still. * The tempest broods—how keen thy sense— Each leaf is folded fast, And thou hast made thy self-defence Against the sweeping blast. Harmless the winds have passed thee by, The rain drops find no rest ; Lightly they fall, as tear or sigh, Upon thy guarded breast.”— Avion. The Water Lily (Nymphea alba), “ the Naiad of the river,’’ and several others of that tribe of plants, in serene calm weather, expand their leaves in the day time and contract them during night :— “ Come, seek the Lily’s still, calm haunts, and see The waters sporting round their pearly cups; If ye e’er gazed on aught more beautiful, Oh tell me what it was, for ne’er have I."— Miss Twamley. The common and despised Dandelion (Leontodon taraxacum) is one of the most correct “ dial flowers,” opening at seven in the morn- ing and closing at five in the afternoon :— “ Leontodons unfold On the swart turf their ray-encircled gold; With Sol’s expanding beam the flowers unclose, And rising Hesper lights them to repose.” —Darwin. 16 THE PROVENCE, OR CABBAGE ROSE. Most of the Hawkweed (Hieraciwm) tribe also open their flowers to the morning light, going to sleep again in the afternoon. “ See Hieracium’s various tribes Of plumy seed and radiant flowers, The course of time their bloom describe, And wake or sleep appointed hours.”—C. Smith. I might enumerate many other kinds of flowers, equally accurate with the above in their various times of expanding ; but think I have said sufficient to excite the attention of an observator to so interesting a matter. I ought not, however, to forget to mention the lovely harbingers of spring, which will soon gladden us by their appearance —Snowdrops, Crocuses, and “ Pale Primroses, That die unmarried ere they can behold Bright Phebus in his strength.”—Shakespear. The harbinger of summer, too, is it not the Hawthorn ? of which, I may add, I have heard it observed, a sure sign of a hard winter is when this plant is unusually fruitful. How rich a gem would our hedge-rows lose were this shrub absent from them. j ‘ Gives not the Hawthorn-bush a sweeter shade To shepherds looking on their silly sheep, Than doth a rich embroider’d canopy To kings that fear their subjects’ treachery ? Oh, yes, it doth ; a thousandfold it doth.” —Shakespear. THE PROVENCE, OR CABBAGE ROSE: ITS CULTURE IN FORCING. BY A LONDON (WEST END) FLORIST. For the last fourteen years my practice in forcing this Rose, which is unequalled for the purpose, has been very extensive ; and from February the Ist to the middle of April I cut thousands of its magnifi- cent highly-fragrant flowers. For years previous to particularly turning my attention to forcing Roses, I had noticed its partial adoption by many nurserymen; but not one seemed to give it that attention it merited. I resolved, therefore, to enter into it at once with energy, and extensively too. In my visits to other establishments I discovered that it was essen- tial to success that the plants should have a due preparation for the process of forcing them. In November, 1831, I procured two hun- dred plants, in pots, of the Provence or Cabbage Rose. These I obtained of a person who had duly attended to their preparation, but who was obliged to give up his entire establishment for building pur- poses, and who was retiring from business. On obtaining the plants, being November 28th, I found that many of the plants showed buds about bursting. I, therefore, placed them in coal-ashes, nearly up to the rim in a cold pit frame, where I could protect them from frost. About half of the plants had been pruned in short, each shoot to THE PROVENCE, OR CABBAGE ROSE, 17 three buds ; one-half of such plants I took into the forcing-house about the middle of December, and the other in the first week of January. The lot I procured unpruned I cut them into three buds at that time, and took them in for forcing at the end of January and the middle of February. I had them plunged in a pit of tanners’ bark and dry leaves up to the rims; the house is heated around, being double-roofed, by hot-water pipes, having pot tanks placed along the upper side of the pipes, which are filled with water, to evaporate and induce a moist atmosphere at pleasure. I used manure water once a-week at the roots, in a milk-warm state, and soft water of a similar degree of temperature on all other occasions. I gaye them asyringing of water over the tops once a-day, in the morning, and as the season advanced in the evening also. When any appearance of green-fly was seen, immediate application of tobacco-water was applied, and destruction followed. By due attention, having the plants forced in as gradual a manner as circumstances would admit, I cut from nearly every plant from one and a-half to two dozen roses. ‘Ihe first were gathered early in February, and I had an ample supply till the end of April. As the plants ceased blooming I had them removed into a warm greenhouse, so that they gradually hardened ; and about the middle of May I turned them into the open air, up to the rim in a bed of rich soil, in a good situation, where they were watered, &c., as neces- sity directed, avoiding starting the plants into a second growth, as if allowed would most materially injure such plants for forcing. When I apprehend a premature disposition to blooming, I remove the plants, and plunge them behind a wall or thick beech hedge (this tendency sometimes appears in September), which check answers the purpose designed. When the plants had hardened their shoots, having com- pleted their growth, I repotted them into pots a size larger, using a rich leaf soil and loam, of equal parts, and placed them in the border as before. I pruned them, and forced them the second season very successfully. [I should have given them a year’s rest, by pinching off all flowers, and improving the wood for forcing the year after ; but I had not a stock of younger plants duly prepared to supply me with Roses, and thus necessity induced me; otherwise I should have done as I since have—allowed one year’s rest and the alternate year forced them. To cultivate Roses for forcing successfully, it is necessary to pre~ pare them from the earliest stage; it will not do to take up a plant out of the ground, compress the roots into a pot, and then to bring it forward by immediate steps into a course of growth adapted to the object in view. The plant must be grown from its infancy in a pot. Sensible that such a course was the only real one, at the time I pur- chased the two hundred plants, which I forced as above stated, I procured three hundred layers, which had been laid in the previous spring ; these I pruned to three eyes, and potted them in a rich compost in 32-sized pots, plunged them over the rims in a good warm border, watered them, and in a few days laid over the surface six inches thick of dry leaves, upon which I sprinkled a little spent bark Vol. xv. Noo1.—N.S . B 18 HINTS ON THE MANAGEMENT OF CAPE HEATHS. to retain them in the position. These materials keep the frost from the roots better than any other material I have tried. If there be a cold frame or pit in which the plants could be plunged, so much the better for them to be so placed. I had not that convenience then. The plants were allowed to grow where plunged in the border, duly watered, &c., till the following October. The plants were then pruned to three buds on each side shoot, put into the cold pit till February; I had them then removed into the forcing- house, giving them every desired attention, and the first week in April I repotted them into 16-sized pots, and retained them there till the first week in May, when they had finished their growth. I then placed them in a flued pit, which I kept about as warm as a green- house, gave them sufficiency of air, &c.; the shoots became firia, and hardened gradually ; and about the 21st of May, I had the plants taken out, and the pots were plunged up to the rims in a good aspected border. As I before observed, I am always watchful about August and September that a second growth does not take place, but remove them to a cooler situation to check it when such is likely to occur. About the middle of October I remove those plants I wish to force into the cold pit frame, and prune them to three buds on each shoot ; and early in December take them into the house for forcing as my bearing crop. A usual succession are taken in, as I before remarked, so as to supply me through the season. So universally are Roses in esteem at the spring season, that although I grow so many I have always a demand for my stock. Each successive year I raise a supply of layers, pot and repot, so that I now have annually a supply of young vigorous plants, which produce me a splendid bloom, amply repaying for the attention given to so lovely a flower. Whoever pursues the same course of management will be certain of success. HINTS ON THE MANAGEMENT OF CAPE HEATHS. BY A LONDON EXHIBITOR, Ir used to be a generally received opinion that Cape Heaths were very difficult to manage. From the simplicity of the modes of cul- ture recommended in communications inserted in former Numbers of the Cabinet, I was encouraged to attem pt their cultivation, and have now succeeded most admirably. The following particulars contain my general routine of management. I possessed frames of the usual kind, and observing that the young plants of two or three years old in the superb collection of Mrs. Lawrence, at Ealing Park, were kept in spring and summer in frames, the plants standing upon bricks or tiles, and the frames raised up four or five inches, being supported on a brick on edge at each corner, in order to admit a current of air to pass through the plants, I had two of my frames so fixed, and early in April, 1844, I purchased a selection of kinds | had marked down at exhibitions, and observed in the nursery collections around London ; the plants were of a youthful age. I re-potted them as follows :—From a nur- HINTS ON THE MANAGEMENT OF CAPE HEATHS, 19 seryman (a celebrated grower), I procured a load of peat, which had been obtained from three sundry places in the neighbourhood of London, and which, in equal parts, had been incorporated together in its rough turfy state. The soi] I wanted for use then I chopped up, leaying it quite as rough as I could use for potting ; by this process the turfy portion is mixed up with the other more naturally, and it keeps the soil open for the passing of water, air, &, To the soil I added about one- sixth part of what is usually termed silver, or Calais sand, and a sprinkling of bits of charcoal, each about the size of a horse-bean. These, being well mixed up by the hand, composed my compost, and which proved to be all I could desire. I put in the pot a good drainage of broken crocks, and over them some pieces of turfy peat. In potting, I placed the plant as high in the centre as the rim of the pot, and when the compost was properly pressed around the ball the sides were about half an inch below the top of the rim. This, whilst it allows a sufficiency of water for the plant, does not retain it unduly around the main stem, which has often proved fatal when not guarded against. After potting, I gave them a good watering, and placed them in the frame prepared as before stated, and shaded them from midday sun for about a week. I regularly shaded the plants during the entire of summer for two or three hours during midday, when the sun was hot. The glass was wholly removed after the end of May, and only replaced the beginning of August. During summer I had a heath-house erected, double roofed ; the door at the centre in the south end, as it was placed due north and south. I had a pathway up the middle of the house, and a raised bed on each side, three feet high and four feet broad. The surface of the bed was formed with nice pebble gravel. The sides and ends of the house were brick, as high as the raised bed, and the sashes upon this wall were two and a half feet high, and made to slide down; so that, when required, they can be pushed behind the wall out of sight. This mode of admitting air provides to have a cur- rent through the house, more or less, at pleasure; and I deem it essential, in order to a successful mode of management with this lovely tribe of plants. I have the house heated by the hot-water system ; a pipe being carried round the house close to the walls, and the warmth coming to the upper part of the house by an opening, which is formed between the side beds and the outer walls. The warmth rising at, the sides benefits every part of the house. At the end of September I had the plants removed from the frames into my heathery, placing the taller plants at the farthest distance from the centre walk, giving me a pretty view of the whole surface. As directed, I gave all air I could, so as just to exclude frost, and at no time, by aid of the hot water, to have the temperature of the house above 52°. During winter no watering over head is given, and although it is necessary just to keep the soil in the pots moist, not wet, yet in severe frosty weather it is better to have them rather dry than too moist. At the following March, near the end, I re-potted all the late 20 THUNBERGIA CHRYSOPS, summer and autumn blooming plants; that being the proper season for it with this class; but those kinds which bloom in spring and early summer are re-potted as soon as they have done flowering, and are beginning to push for growth. During summer I retained my plants in* the heathery, and at all opportunities admitted whatever air I could; had the house kept clean washed, &c. The plants flourished and bloomed beautifully, I had a slight canvass cover to shade with over the roof in hot sun. In the spring of 1845 I purchased another stock of small plants, which I kept in the raised frame through summer, and for winter I had a brick pit made, into which I put the plants, and as near to the glass as I could place them; the bottom was formed of brick-bats, over which there was placed a wooden trellis, upon which the plants were placed; this kept them dry, which is an essential in winter preservation. The ground substratum surface, upon which the brickbats were put, was formed with an inclination to one front corner, to which any casual excess of water might naturally run, and be conveyed into a drain which was provided. The covering for winter protection over the sashes was dry straw, next the glass, and mats over it. In this way the plants were not only preserved, but had a very healthy appearance. They were not in the least affected by mildew. A few of those I purchased were affected by mildew, and over them I sprinkled a portion of sulphur, which effectually destroyed it. By pursuing the above simple and easy mode of management, I have derived the greatest satisfaction in the healthiness of my plants, and in their profuse blooming. I am not now under the necessity of purchasing plants to keep up a young stock, having raised a quan- tity from cuttings of the kinds I possessed, and thus purpose to keep up a due supply every year; in addition to which, I purchase any other desirable one I sce to be attractive. There is scarcely a more pleasing object than a well-selected collection of Heaths, when in bloom ; and from the above detail of culture, &c., it will readily be perceived that they may be grown both easily and satisfactory, and at a trifling cost. THUNBERGIA CHRYSOPS. METHOD OF INDUCING ITS BLOOM, BY RICHARD FOX, CALCLAY. A consIDERABLE difficulty has been experienced in the culture of this plant, so as to bloom it satisfactorily. In page 55 (vol. xiv.) of your Magazine a cultivator stated that he had succeeded to bloom the plant by stopping the leads, and thus induced the production of laterals, which check caused it to bloom, Immediately I read the remarks alluded to, having a strong plant, I pinched off all the leads, and I had a plentiful production of side shoots, which were robust, and from four to six inches long by the FLORAL OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH, 21 end of the season, but I had not one flower. At the end of October I placed the plant in the coolest part of the house, so that its growth be gradually checked, and allow it a season of rest. Water was gradually withheld too, and only as much given as would prevent it withering; this treatment was pursued till the end of February, when I removed it to a warm situation, fully exposed to the light. Without disturbing the entire ball of earth, a portion of the surface of it was removed and fresh compost added. A liberal supply of water Was given as it progressed in growth. Twice a week manure water was given. By the middle of April the laterals pushed an abundance of flower buds, and at the close I had the pleasure of counting 38 expanded flowers, and it has continued in fine bloom throughout the summer and autumn. The plant was bloomed in a pot 10 inches across. From the results with my plant I am persuaded that they should be prepared the first year and bloom the succeeding. This year I have several plants undergoing the preparatory process of stopping the leads, &c., and I doubt not but they will bloom satisfac- tory the next year. When in full flower it is a most beautiful object, well deserving to be grown wherever it is practicable. FLORAL OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH. IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. Ir the weather is severe be careful to afford sufficient protection to al] tender things, and on all favourable occasions remove such cover- ings as can conveniently be done, in order to dispel the damp air. See that all newly planted shrubs remain secure, so that they are not loosened by the wind. During the hard frosts remember that all beds on lawns requiring raising with soil should be done at once, to avoid injuring the grass by wheeling. If any of the heads of tender Standard and Climbing Roses are still unprotected, they ought at once to be secured. As we have often recommended, this is best done by tying a covering of furze over them ; it is better than straw, because it admits sufficient air to benefit the plant. Continue to collect during the frosty weather all kinds of soils and manures that are wasted, turfs to rot into turfy loam, sand, clean loam, peat, horse and sheep droppings, and leaves to rot, if not done already. Amongst florists’ flowers recollect that Awrieulas and Polyanthuses must, in fine weather, have plenty of air, and require no water while there is the least moisture in the compost they are growing in; they must be cleansed from dead leaves, and must not be allowed to be quite dry, but moisture must be sparingly given; they are also much better when kept from freezing, not that they are tender, but they always bloom the worse for a decided check, and as the fibres of the root are next to the pot they are reached easily. Carnations and Piccotees wintered in pots are impatient of wet and confinement, therefore they cannot have too much air or too little wet; the frames they are kept in should be impervious to rain, and the bottom of the frame should be paved or cemented, and sufficiently sloping to let the wet run out at once. The lights should be offevery mild day, and closed in frost and rain. 22 FLORAL OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH. Tulips should be very carefully kept from frost, the soil they are in should not be even allowed to crust on the top if it can be avoided ; if the earth be frozen down to the bulb the bloom will assuredly be less perfect than if it were not frozen. Pinks and Heartsease in beds may be preserved from hard frost by covering with litter of any kind rather loosely, but not enough to deprive them of light and air. Hyacinths in beds or borders should he covered with litter, or occa- sionally with mats. Ranunculuses and Anemones that were autumn planted should also be protected from frost by similar means. IN THE FORCING FRAME. At the end of the month sow seeds of the tender annuals, as Cockscomb, Amaranthus, &c., to have them fine specimens for the greenhouse, &c., in summer; and ten-week Stocks, Russian and Prussian Stocks, &c., to bloom early, should be sown in pots, or be sown upon a slight hot- bed,; also some other of the’half tender kinds, to prepare them : strong for early summer blooming. » The Jacobez and Guernsey Amaryllises, with others of the genus, should be repotted ; also to have a few early blooming plants of Achi- menes, Gloxinias, Gesnerias, &c., they should be started, and when beginning to push separate and pot them singly. Cuttings of Salvias, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Anagallis, Hemimeris, Lotus, Bouvardia, &c., desired for planting out in bor- ders or beds during spring and summer, should be struck in moist heat at the end of the month, in order to get the plants tolerably strong by May, the season of planting out. Lobelias in pots should now be pushed, in order to divide and pot singly next month. Dahlia seed is best retained in the head as grown, spread singly where they will not be liable to mould, and be kept in a dry situation; the seeds will thus be kept plump. Where great increase of plants is required for next season, the roots should now be potted or partly plunged into a little old tan in the stove, or a frame, to forward them for planting outin May. As shoots push take them off when four or five inches long, and strike them in moist heat. Seed sow at the end of month. Mignonette, to bloom early in boxes or pots, or to turn out in the open borders, should now be sown. Protect the stems of tender plants with furze branches, dry leaves, fern, &c. Sow in pans ‘seeds of Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Ericas, &c., that plants will be fit to plant off in May. IN THE COLD FRAME AND GREENHOUSE. In this department, mind that if Camellias are not regularly supplied with soft, not too cold, water, the buds will drop; if too much, frequently that will cause them to drop too. Never give heat to Heaths as long as the frost can be kept out by coverings or other- wise. A few degrees of frost will never injure Cape Heaths, whereas fires are their ruin. Let the air blow upon them on all favourable occasions. Nothing destroys the constitution of .these plants so FLORAL OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH. 23 much as close and damp houses. Should any choice varieties of Azalea indica be required for the purpose of propagation by cuttings, they may be transferred to a temperature sufficiently high to excite an early growth. Cuttings of these will be found to root with much greater facility early in the season than at a later period, besides it is of considerable advantage to have young plants strong and well esta- blished by the approach of the succeeding winter. Gladioli, Alstrae- meria, Lilium, &c., grown in pots at the endof the month, should be repotted. When the weather is damp or foggy do not give air, only let a dry air be admitted. If any of the Oranges, Lemons, &c., have naked or irregular heads, towards the end of the month, if fine mild weather occur, begin to reclaim them to some uniformity by shortening the branches; by this attention they will break out new shoots upon the old wood, and form a regular head. ‘Tender and small kinds of plants should frequently be examined to have the sur- face of soil loosened, decayed leaves taken away, or if a portion of a branch be decaying cut it off immediately, or the injury may extend to the entire plant and destroy it. Chrysanthemums having now quite ceased blooming, the plants must be placed in a cool pit where they can be protected from severe frost, and have the tops cut off. If seed be desired such plants must not be headed down, and they must be kept in a dry and warm place in the greenhouse to ripen. IN THE STOVE. All those kinds of plants required here for ornament, and which have been duly prepared by previous culture, should be introduced in succession, giving ample supplies of water and frequent syringing over head. If any of the forced plants be attacked with the green fly, a syringe with diluted tobacco-water will destroy them. If the leaves appear bit, and turn brown (the effect of damage by red spider), a syringe of soap-suds at the under side of the leaves is effectual to de- stroy them. The glutinous substance remaining not only kills those it is applied to, but prevents others returning there. The plants best adapted for forcing are various kinds of Roses, Persian Lilacs, Aza- leas, Acacia armata, Neriums. Gardenias, Rhodora, Heliotropes, Correas, Deutzias, Mezereums, Coronillas, Cytissus, Ribes, Migno- nette, Cinerarias, Sweet Violets, Lily of the Valley, Tulips, Cyclamens ; and the old Eranthemum pulchellum with its fine blue flowers, Jus- ticia speciosa, Gesneriz Zebrina, Justicia pulcherrima, and Apphel- landria cristata, are fine winter ornamental blooming plants. All pots or boxes containing bulbous-rooted flowering plants, as Hyacinths, Narcissus, Persian Irises, Crocusses, &c., should occasionally be in- troduced, so as to have a succession of bloom. Many persons who take a delight in growing some showy Hyacinths or other bulbous plants for adorning a room or window, &c. in winter or early in spring, have been frequently disappointed by the abortiveness of some and weakness of others. This principally arises from the inability of the plant to develop itself with a rapidity equal to the quantity of mois- ture it imbibes, on account of its upper surface being acted upon too immediately by the atmosphere, &c.; hence arises the necessity of 24 BRIEF NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE, covering the bulb. That such is a fact is evidenced by the admirable and certain success of nearly every bulb, especially Hyacinths, that is covered with about six inches of cld spent bark, This or some similar light material should always be used. Even bulbs intended to bloom in glasses we prefer starting in the old bark, and then trans- ferring them to the glasses when the shoots are about two inches long. Where such covering is not adopted, it is of advantage to have the pots or glasses kept in a dark place till the shoots are two or three inches long. Cactus plants that have been kept in the greenhouse should occasionally be brought into the stove for flowering, which gives a succession. BRIEF NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE. CaxceoLartas.— Vewport.— Excellent articles on the treatment of the Cal- ceolaria have appeared in former volumes. The only secret is to get the plants strong in autumn; grow them gently with plenty of air through the winter ; put them into their blooming pots in the first week in February, and then push them along in a gentle heat, keeping them free from insects, until they show bloom in April; after which they must be grown in a cool, airy place, to prevent the flower-stems from becoming too mach drawn. Potmaise HeatTinGc,—A Constant Reader writes: “ I take the liberty to ask you, or any of your correspondents, a few questions relative to the heating of a vinery upon the Polmaise or hot-air system. It is stated in the Gardeners’ Chronicle as being preferable to hot-water pipes. In the first place, I should like to know which you consider preferable, the hot-water pipes or Polmaise; and if you prefer the Polmaise principle of heating, I should be glad to know what size the fire-place ought to be, to heat a house forty feet long by eigliteen feet wide, and what size the hot-air flue would be required to heat the said house, by carrying it along the front wall, not having a hot chamber in the centre, as stated in the Chronicle; or whether the flue in front would be suffli- cient to keep up a regular heat or not without the chamber, as the house will be chiefly for vines. Secondly, what size the cold air drains would be required, and how they should be constructed to answer the purpose. Thirdly, would it be possible to heat a small conservatory by the same fire, by an additional flue, with a damper at the entrance, so as to turn the hot air from one to the other at pleasure. If you, or any of your correspondents, will be kind enough to answer these few questions in your next following Number it will very much oblige.” We have not yet had sufficient evidence to enable us to give our opinion on the real merits of Polmaise heating. We have, however, some experiments in operation upon a similar system, on which we shall speak more fully in an early Number, In the mean time we hope the inquiry of a Constant Reader will meet with attention from those of our readers who may be practically acquainted with the Polmaise plan. Cacti.—LZucy.—If your plants are in good health, a little water given occa- sionally at this time of the year will benefit them; but if they are not, it is cer- tainly best to avoid giving them any until spring. PELARGoNIUMS.— C’. C_—The following are the varieties most in repute for forcing :—Admiral Napier, Alba multiflora, Washington. These are the earliest, and ought now to be trussing for bloom; followed by Madeline, Beck’s Bella, Gauntlet, Selina, Laneii, Grand Duke, Lord Mayor, Commodore,and King Rufus. Bugs anp Seeps.— 7. Short——Your bulbs from Japan may be potted imme- diately in a light rich soil, the pots being well drained. The Cape seed may also be sown at once in shallow pans; the soil should consist of two-thirds sandy peat, and the remainder light loam and leaf mould, in equal proportions. Place the whole in a little bottom heat, and keep them perfectly dry for a week or ten days. Tana PYRAMIDALIS.—H. D.—A variety of J. orientalis. It is not known why these plants are called Arbor Vite, but conjectured to be on account of some supposed great medicinal quality. In the east the Cypress is considered, the tree of life, its fruit curing all diseases, ia ALR 4 oss 9 Ria ‘ ‘ ¥ ter ‘ i-Wwe i T. ‘ i sar seen © Wh F ‘ Naa cant pee . i ae Live. a. er fel Soa yi , BEE sie cen A ae arian os pee aye! Uh. x a Bey A Hye send } sit pe TA7 SESS Sy er ant ; r nivalis {cident lds gf dai Rael ty aa | ley, ys ab tal < “odes sel’ rr hie howe? ys’? y a Od bts ite oe vo Seat ws . cia hineab 1d r % oral or SF ; a a3} ‘i “Ah ress Leal 7" >» Hest i ie re: T) hl LOROLDMA 2 ILLUSTRATIONS. ABUTILON VENOSUM—Vernep AsotiLon. Malvaceae. Monadelphia Polyandria. sku. HE genus Sida was founded by Linnzeus, and until :) the last six or eight years, comprised a number of comparatively not very beautiful species; but during this period several greatly superior kinds have been made known. We may mention Sida Picta, a plant well known. S. Bedfordianum, with flowers some- what resembling the last in shape and colour, but produced erect, and numerously at the ends of the branches. |S. graveolens, a very. dis- tinct species, with soft pale green foliage, and yellow flowers haviug a deep blood coloured eye. S. paoniflora, with rosy-red flowers, the petals of which imbricate so as to form a rather globular appearance. S. vitifolia, possessing large lavender coloured flowers, and has grown for several years in the open air in Ireland. And, finally, our present species, which exceeds them all in the beauty of its flowers, and is equally ornamental in growth. The whole of these plants are however now more generally recognised by cultivators under the generic title Abutilon, which was first applied by Meench ; we have, therefore, for this reason, on the present occasion, retained the generally adopted name. The Abutilon was formerly a section of the genus Sida, the latter having carpels (parts which hold the seeds), containing many seeds in each, but the former have only one seed in each. Nearly all the flowers of Abutilon are bladder formed, but those of Sida more expanded. In consequence of such distinctions they have been formed into separate genera, but custom in the title hitherto prevails. In the management of A. venosum, or the various other species we have enumerated, there is no grounds for apprehending improper treatment, any good soil being suitable to them, though perhaps in Vol. xy. No. 2,—WN.S, Cc 26 NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. that of a sandy nature they grow with less vigour, yet producing a greater abundance of bloom. A roomy place in the greenhouse or conservatory is the one usually assigned to these plants, but we are not aware of any obstacle which would prevent them from flourishing in summer in a sheltered open border. We have found A. striatum (Sida picta) to do well under such circumstances. Multiplication of the various species is readily effected from cuttings planted in sand and placed in a little heat. NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. AZALEA SQUAMATA—THE SCALY AZALFA. Ericacee. Pentandria Monogynia. Mr. Fortune discovered this beautiful species on the Hong Kong Mountains in China. It has the usual habit of the Chinese Azaleas, with this peculiarity, that in its natural state it blooms without leaves, producing at the end of every little shoot a large solitary flower of a clear rosy-flesh colour, distinctly spotted with crimson on the inner ' side. Each flower is about two inches across. The plant blooms very profusely, and forms a very neat dwarf bush. It is a beautiful ad- dition either for the greenhouse or the shrubbery. It is very likely to prove hardy. Figured in Bot. Reg., p. 3. CALOSCORDUM NERINEFOLIUM—NERINE-LEAVED CALOSCORDUM. Liliaceae. Hexandria Monogynia. Sent from Chusan in China to the Dean of Manchester, and in whose collection at Spofforth it has bloomed. It is a slender garlic- like plant, the flowers are produced in an umbellate head, each half an inch across, and of a rosy-purple colour. Figured in Bot. Reg. p. 5. Currita ZEYLANICA—CEYLON CHIRITA. Cyrtandracee. Didynamia Angiospermia. This is a succulent evergreen shrub, and requires similar treatment to the Gloxinia, Gesneria, &c. The flowers are produced in pro- fusion in branching panicles. ach flower is bell-shaped, an inch and a half long and an inch across the mouth. The tubular portion is a pale yellow, and the limb, (mouth,) blue-purple. It is an interest- ing and rather handsome flowering plant, well meriting cultivation. It will flourish in a warm situation in the greenhouse or stove, and small plants even bloom freely, but being a free grower, large speci- mens are readily produced. Figured in Pax. Mag. Bot. CuPHEA PLATYCENTRA—BROAD-CENTRED CUPHEA. Lythracee. Dodecandria Monogynia. This very beautiful flowering dwarf evergreen shrub, is a native of Mexico, and is very ornamental for the greenhouse, or beds in the open air during summer. It blooms profusely, especially when under glass, in the autumn and winter. It ought to be grown wherever practicable. NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. 27 The flowers are tube-formed, an inch and a half long, of a rich scarlet colour, with a white rimmed mouth. It was obtained from Mexico by J. Anderson, Esq., the Holme, Regent’s-park, London. Figured in Pax. Mag. Bot. CYANANTHUS LOBATUS—LOBED CYANANTH. Polemoniacee. Pentandria Monogynia. A hardy herbaceous plant, stated to have been collected in Chinese Tartary, on the snowy passes, in October, 1844, at an elevation of 12,000 feet. It has bloomed in the garden of the London Horticul- tural Society at Chiswick. It is a delicate little plant, producing bell-shaped flowers, with a large five-parted spreading limb, of a rich blue purple colour, lighter in the centre. Figured in Bot. Reg., p. 6. DENDROBIUM TRIADENIUM—THREE-KNOBBED DENDRC., UM. Orchidacee. Gynandria Monandria. Introduced from the East Indies, and has bloomed in Mr. Rucker’s collection at Wandsworth. The flowers are produced in a close racemose-panicle, they are nearly white, with streaks of rosy-violet. The lip is white, with three deep yellow lobes at the tip. Each flower is about an inch across.. Figured in Bot. Reg., p. 1. STATICE EXIMIA—LARGE Pink SEA LAVENDER. Plumbaginacee. Pentandria Pentagynia. Discovered in Tartary, south of Songaria. It is a hardy perennial, growing about two feet high, and blooms the greater part of summer. The flowers are produced in long terminating spikes, of many dense lateral ones, and are of a pretty rosy-lilac colour. It is a handsome border plant, well deserving cultivation. It has bloomed in the London Horticultural Society’s Garden. Figured in Bot. Reg., p. 2. VICTORIA REGIA—THE VicToRIA WATER-LILY. Nympheacee. Polyandria Polygynia. It has afforded us much pleasure to observe the very great improve- ment effected in the Botanical Magazine during the last two years ; the style and execution of the work, as well as the very judicious se- lection of flowers figured, the excellent descriptive remarks, &c., the entire being under the direction of Sir W. J. Hooker, places it now in high estimation. The January Number for the present year is wholly occupied with a most interesting account ofthe above-named magnifi- cent plant, and contains also four fine coloured figures of the flowers, one of the natural size fully expanded, another representing one just opening, and a third separate portions, as a fruit of it, &e. The first plate is a reduced representation of the plant as it appears in its natural situation, showing twenty-six of the fully opened flowers, unexpanded flowers, and fully formed leaves and fruit, which sketch is chiefly done from Sir R. H. Schomburgh’s scene in his views of British Guiana, where he had it figured. In order to have somewhat of an accurate knowledge of its noble appearance, these figures should be seen. “ Seldom has any plant,” observes Sir W. Hooker, ‘ excited such c2 28 NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. attention in the botanical world, the interest being specially increased by the name (Victoria) it is privileged to bear. If it could be said, in reference to the consort of His Majesty George III., that the Strelitzia was peculiarly appropriated to her, because of the pa- tronage which she gave to botany, by improving and embellishing the Royal Gardens of Kew, much more does the name of Victoria claim to be handed down to posterity on similar grounds; seeing that Her present Majesty has been graciously pleased to make these gardens available to the public enjoyment, and even to endow them with a liberal provision for that especial purpose.” We may add, that these gardens, and the collection of plants they contain, have recently been so much improved and increased, as to be far superior to any other we have seen, and certainly afford a very rich treat to the immense number of visitors. ‘ Growing plants,” proceeds Sir William, “ of the VicTrorRIA REGIA are in the Royal Gardens of Kew, but have not yet bloomed. Of it, however, we have flowering specimens, gathered by Sir R. Schomburgh ; and blossoms both preserved in spirits and dried, collected by Mr. Bridges. Sir R. Schomburgh detected the plant in British Guiana, and observes, ‘It was on the lst of January, 1837, while contending with the difficulties to stem our progress up the river Berbice, that we arrived at a part where the river expanded and formed a currentless basin. Some object on the southern extre- mity of this basin attracted my attention, and I was unable to form an idea what it could be; but, animating the crew to increase the rate of their paddling, we soon came opposite the object which had raised my curiosity, and, behold, a vegetable wonder! All calamities were forgotten ; I was a botanist, and felt myself rewarded! ‘There were gigantic leaves, five to six feet across, with a flat broad rim, lighter green above and vivid crimson below, floating upon the water, while in character with the wonderful foliage, I saw luxuriant flowers, each consisting of numerous petals, passing, in alternate tints, from pure white to rose and pink. The smooth water was covered with the blossoms, and as I rowed from one to another, I always found something new to admire. This beautiful flower, when it first unfolds, is white with a pink centre; the colour spreads as the bloom increases in age ; and, at a day old, the whole is rose-coloured. As if to add to the charm of this truly noble Water Lily, it diffuses a sweet scent.’ “Father La Cueva, a Spanish missionary in the country of the wild Guarayos, an old man who had passed thirty years among savages, and the celebrated botanist Haenke, who had been sent by the Spanish Government to investigate the vegetable productions of Peru, were together in a pirogue upon the river Mamore, one of the great tribu- taries of the Amazon river, when they discovered in the marshes by the side of the stream, a plant which was so surprisingly beautiful and extraordinary, that Haenke, in a transport of admiration, fell on his knees, and expressed aloud his sense of the power and magnificence of the Creator in his works. ** On the return of Mr. Bridges from his journey through Bolivia, he found the Victoria regia in considerable abundance, and brought home in 1846, seeds in wet clay, and well dried foliage ; also flowers preserved in spirits. He observes, relative to it, as follows :— NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. 29 “‘ During my stay at the Indian town of Santa Anna, in the pro- vince of Moxos, Republic of Bolivia, during the months of June and July, 1845, I made daily shooting excursions in the vicinity. In one of these I had the good fortune (whilst riding along the woody banks of the river Yacuma, one of the tributary rivers of the Mamore) to come suddenly on a beautiful pond, or rather small lake, embosomed ‘in the forest, where, to my delight and astonishment, I discovered, for the first time, ‘the Queen of Aquatics,’ the Victoria regia! There were at least fifty flowers in view, and Belzoni could not have felt more rapture at his Egyptian discoveries than I did in beholding the _ beautiful and novel sight before me, such as it has fallen to the lot of few Englishmen to witness. Fain would I have plunged into the lake to procure specimens of the magnificent flowers and leaves; but know- ing that these waters abounded in alligators, I was deterred from doing so by the advice of my guide, and my own experience of similar places. “ The Victoria grows in four to six feet of water, producing leaves and flowers, which rapidly decay and give place to others. From each plant there are seldom more than four or five leaves on the surface, but even these in parts of the lake where the plants were numerous, almost covered the surface of the water, one leaf touching the other. LT observed a beautiful aquatic bird, (Parra sp.?) walk with much ease from leaf to leaf, and many of the Muscicapide find food and a resting-place on them. The plant occupies almost exclusively the water, with the exception of a few floating aquatics of small dimen- sions, amongst which I saw a beautiful Utricularia. ** The blossoms rise six and eight inches above the surface, ex- panding first in the evening, when they are pure white; changing finally (and by exposure to the sun) to a most beautiful pink or rose colour, flowers may be seen, at the same time, partaking of every tinge between the two hues, the recently expanded being pure white and the adult rosy, almost sinking under water to ripen its seed and produce a new race of plants when required. The largest flowers I saw measured from ten inches to one foot in diameter. “‘ T had an opportunity of experiencing the fragrance of the flowers. Those I collected for preserving in spirits were unexpanded, but on the point of opening; on arriving at the Government House, in the town, I deposited them in my room, and returning after dark, I found to my surprise that all had blown and were exhaling a most delightful odour, which at first I compared to a rich Pine-apple, afterwards to a Melon, and then to the Cherimoya; but indeed it resembled none of these fruits, and I, at length, came to the decision that it was a most delicious scent, unlike every other, and peculiar to the noble flower that produced it. _ “ The leaves are round, and the edges are turned upwards giving the leaf a singular appearance, somewhat like a floating dish. “ The plant appears to delight in parts of the lake fully exposed to the sun, and I observed that it did not exist where the trees over- shaded the margins.” 380 ORANGE, CITRON, AND LEMON TREES. ORANGE, CITRON, AND LEMON-TREES: CULTURE ADOPTED. BY A NOBLEMAN’S GARDENER. I HAVE observed several queries inserted in the FLORICULTURAL CABINET relative to the culture of the above class of trees, and having erected a conservatory three years ago, a portion of it was wholly devoted to the Orange, &c. The excellent success which has resulted from my efforts induces me to send the particulars for the benefit of the inquirers. The house is heated by hot water along the front and ends; the pipes are concealed by a neat metal covering, used as a stand for plants. I had a raised pit as broad as I could allow it, leaving the pathway around. ‘The pit was three feet deep; a substratum of stones, near a foot deep, was first constructed, and the other part filled up with com- post of the following materials :—A layer of rough turfy loam, about four inches deep, was laid over the stones, then the compost, which had been previously made in proportion, as follows. Six barrow-fulls of strong turfy loam, half the quantity of well-rotten dung, and about a quarter of old rotted vegetable manure, to which a moderate sprinkling of charcoal, in bits about the size of horse beans, and others in large pieces. The compost was allowed to settle well before planting. After the trees had rooted in the compost, I gave soft (rain) water twice at the roots to once of rich manure water, always giving as much at a time as would sink to the depth of the fibrous roots. With such proviso and attention the plants have succeeded beyond my utmost expectations. In planting and arranging my plants, I had a row along the front and ends of the border, trained to a wire trellis, after the manner of espalier trees, and pruned in a similar manner. ‘These not only bloom profusely, but bear fruit abundantly ; Orange, Citron, and Lemon alike. The other trees in the bed are standards ; the highest at the back. They are set wide enough apart not to interfere with each other, when they reach a due size. In order to have the heads duly arranged, I have round rods, six feet high above the ground, placed around so as to tie the branches to, and regularly distribute them. I prune so as to have the plants open and vigorous, and the best results follow such attention in the vigour and fruitful character of the wood, and size, flavour, &c., of the fruit. I cannot avoid here observing, that in the usual management of Oranges, and other trees of the same description in greenhouses, how- ever fine the plants, they only serve the purpose of ornament, and are otherwise useless, never producing any fruit fit for the table. The failure arises from the common practice with most gardeners of taking these trees out of the greenhouse when they put out the common greenhouse plants for the summer months; whereas, the proper course which they ought to follow, is to keep them in the house through the whole season, and to avail themselves of the removal of the other plants to apply the peculiar treatment necessary to bring them into proper bearing. From the experience which my practice has given me, I do not think that Orange and other similar trees require much ORANGE, CITRON, AND LEMON TREES, 31 warmth in the winter months; I therefore never suffer my house to be heated above 50° by fire heat until the end of February or the beginning of March, when the trees, if in good health, will begin to show blossom; the fire-heat should then be increased to 55°; but the houses ought not to be warmed above 65’ at this time by sun- heat, the excess of which must be checked by the admission of air ; and indeed the more air the trees have during the time of blossoming, the more certain will be the crop of fruit. My trees are washed with a hand syringe about twice a-week in the winter months, advantage being taken of the middle of the day for that work in cold weather ; in summer they are washed in the morning, and it is then done every day. During the time the trees are in blossom they require more care in respect to watering. I do it less frequent, and then use a syringe with a top, the holes of which are so small that they will not admit a fine needle to pass through them. Clean soft water from the cistern in the conservatory is used for all these purposes. As soon as the fruit is set I begin to water the trees at their roots with the com- position-water above described, giving more or less, according to discretion ; the trees having no other sort of water during the summer months, except what little falls from their leaves when they are syringed each morning. In the early part of June the greenhouse plants are taken out for the summer, and I then begin to force the trees, by keeping the heat in the house up as near as possible to 75°, for I do not consider that either Citrons, Oranges, Lemons, or Limes, can be grown fine and good with less heat. Whilst the forcing is going on, particular attention is paid to the waterings above described. In June I also give the trees a top dressing of the rich compost before mentioned ; this is of the greatest advantage in swelling the fruit, and it is done in the following manner. The earth above the roots is moved with a small hand fork, taking care not to disturb any part of the roots; all the loose earth is then removed clear to the roots, and replaced with the compost. This operation I have performed for four years on the trees, and to it I principally attribute my success in producing such fine and abundant crops. With respect to pruning the trees, I do not know that regular directions can be given for the work, but I will state in what manner my trees are treated. Early in February they are looked over ; at that time it is apparent what wood is likely to be fruitful, and as a certain quantity of old branches are yearly cut away, I take out those which seem least promising, and so make room for the younger and more productive wood. If the trees afterwards grow very strong, the shoots are shortened according to their strength, in the same way as Peach-trees are shortened. Thus the branches pruned are not only fruitful, but they are restrained to any shape desired ; for no sort of fruit-trees bear the knife more patiently than those I am treating of. There is some nicety required in thinning and arranging the crop. When the fruits are about the size of small wallnuts it is proper to thin them. Two fruits are never left together, or they would neither be fine nor well formed ; the quantity left to ripen also depends on the age and strength of the tree. ‘The thinnings have no pulp 32 THE PLEASURES OF GARDENING. when of the size above mentioned, and are much esteemed, making excellent preserves. / Having room for some plants in tubs, I had some planted in all respects as to a due proportion of drainage, compost, watering, &c., and treated in pruning too; they have thrived admirably. My com- position water is prepared as follows: three wheelbarrows full of cow- dung fresh from a pasture-field, two wheelbarrows full of fresh sheep’s dung, and two pecks of quick lime, are thrown into one hogshead of soft water; the mixture is frequently stirred for a week or ten days before it is used, and when applied to the plants, ought to be about the consistence of cream. THE PLEASURES OF GARDENING: NECESSITY OF GOOD ORDER AND ARRANGEMENT. BY WILLIAM CHITTY, STAMFORD HILL. Ar the present advanced period in the history of gardening, when so much time and talent are devoted to elevate to the highest degree of perfection the various subjects that come within its province, it may appear almost presumption to offer any remarks on the necessity of a corresponding degree of attention being paid to arrangement, order, and neatness in the management of the flower or pleasure-garden ; but if, as the late Mr. Loudon somewhere observed, ‘“‘ pleasure is the avowed object of the flower-garden, the shrubbery, and the pleasure- ground,” and if it is also true that no well-regulated mind can derive any pleasure from a spot in which a great number of the beauties usually comprehended in the idea of a garden are brought together, without any reference to harmony and arrangement, and if, again, we too frequently find such a state of things really to exist, it may not, perhaps, be deemed altogether out of place (at least by some of your readers), if I offer a few remarks, having for their object to show, that if pleasurable feelings are expected to be excited and kept alive by a cultivated spot of either of the above descriptions, a continued attention to order and finish are absolutely necessary, in all their variety of detail. The foregoing and subsequent remarks were suggested by the perusal of the last paragraph in the Article ‘‘On the Arrangement of Plants in Masses,” by Amicus, in the last December Number of your Magazine; the first sentence of which it were well if it was firmly rivetted upon the attention of the possessors of large or small gardens ; ‘in small gardens, nothing is more unpleasing than a want of neatness and high finish.” The people of England have been described by an Italian writer as “a nation working to the stroke of the clock,” and the same regularity and predilection for order which characterizes the business proceedings of our countrymen has been introduced into our gardens, and it would be difficult to find more than a very few persons who could derive pleasure from such gardens as we learn the Chinese sometimes form for themselves, by having their paths, for instance, along those parts of the surface which happen to lie most convenient for that purpose, by leaving their clumps of trees and THE PLEASURES OF GARDENING. 33 tangled thickets much as they find them, and adapting themselves to things as they are rather than arrange the plots according to any pre- conceived ideas of fitness, utility, or beauty. No, we must have our clearly defined walks, borders, lawns, &c.; every plant must occupy its proper position, and every circumstance arranged with reference to general effect, and a harmonious whole. But then, allowing this to be the prevailing characteristic in the formation of small gardens especially, is it not quite out of character that the future keeping of these gardens should not be such as might be expected from the original design? It must be admitted to be too frequently the case, that a garden, upon the formation and arrangement of which a considerable amount of money has been expended, is, from either the indifference of its proprietor, or unaptness of the person or persons on whom its management is devolved, scarcely ever found in such a condition as to convey any- thing like an idea of neatness or comfort.. This remark will, perhaps, more especially apply to the winter management, or, perhaps, I should rather say, the winter neglect of many gardens, where it is customary, as soon as the leaves are fairly fallen, to make such arrangements and alterations as may be deemed necessary, dig the borders, beds, shrub- bery, &c., and then abandon them for the winter ; nothing more being considered necessary to be done until the return of spring; when, perhaps, the circumstance of some vernal beauty forcing itself upon their notice induces them once more to turn their attention to their garden, now in so miserable a plight from having been entirely neg- lected; walks neither swept nor rolled, the lawn having more the appearance of a ploughed field from accumulated worm casts, &c., that a considerable amount of labour is requisite before it can at all be entered upon with comfort, whereas, by a little weekly attention to these particulars, it might have been rendered an interesting prome- nade throughout the winter. Indeed, with a person really interested in a garden, it will be a rather difficult matter to decide, whether it possesses most interest in the summer or winter; for, although in summer it may be furnished with an almost infinite variety of floral beauties, symptoms of decay are everywhere apparent, withering and withered petals, flowers, and plants, continually remind the observer that a period will soon be put to the development of these beauties ; while a well-regulated garden, in which there is a well-arranged display of various evergreen shrubs and trees, intermixed with the different habited deciduous kinds, suggests the idea (if I may be allowed such an expression), of substantial and unfading comfort. In this place, perhaps, I may be allowed to observe, that to add to the pleasure of walking in the garden during the winter months it is abso- lutely necessary that the walks be formed of such gravel, or other material, as will not adhere to the feet; for the twofold reason, that walking is rendered very unpleasant when a quantity of soil clings to the foot at every step, and also renders the surface of the path uneven and unsightly. In old books on gardening, we find prominent place given in the ‘ Kalendarial lists of operations” to such things as “attend to polling, and rolling lawns,” ‘ keep gravel walks swept and rolled,” ‘ now is the time for trimming box-edgings, &c.,” ‘“ keep the flower-beds and borders free from weeds, and evenly raked,” and many 84 ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUAL FLOWERS similar directions, common-place enough, as every one knows, and every one, tacitly at least, admits to be necessary to the completeness of any portion of ground set apart for the purposes of recreation. Would it not help to the attainment of the desired object, if such things were more frequently brought before our notice in our period- icals ? and should we not be brought to consider it of as much im- portance that our gardens evince high keeping, as that the plants grown by us should be so many proofs of attentive culture, ample directions for which it is mainly the praiseworthy object of our floral and gardening publications to convey? I would not by any means be understood to intimate we should have less of these directions, but with the increase of beautiful plants, and ample directions for their culture, let us have increased attention paid to order, arrangement, and keeping, so that their beauties may be displayed in the most advan- tageous and interesting light. ON DESTROYING THE THRIP. BY AN AMATEUR. I HAD some Fuchsia plants very much attacked by this troublesome pest, to which I applied the following as a remedy, and it fully answered. I put 20 gallons of soft water into a tub, and about half a peck of soot to it, stirring it up well once aday for several days ; I then strained off the water through a coarse cloth, into a deep tub, put into it about half a peck of charcoal-dust, and a quarter of a peck of unslacked lime, and one pound of soft-soap, these were stirred up together for several successive days, and when in a clear state, I used it as follows :— ’ The under side of the leaves of my Fuchsias were pestered with the Thrips, I therefore dipped them overhead, and it completely destroyed the insects, but did not in the least injure the tenderest portion of the plants, either foliage or flowers. An application with the syringe might have answered had they not been so enormously attacked, and especially at the under side of the foliage. ON THE CULTURE, &c., OF ANNUAL FLOWERS IN THE OPEN BORDER. BY A VERY EXTENSIVE GROWER. Turis lovely, and generally most beautiful tribe of flower-garden orna- ments are of such universal service for the flower-garden, and so deservedly esteemed for fragrance, diversity of form, beauty, and variety of rich colouring properties, that are enhanced by the facility with which they may be grown, and the speedy display they afford to the cultivator, may be procured at a trifling cost, and require but little attention, that I deem it quite unnecessary to preface my observations by any apology for bringing the following remarks on their cultivation to the notice of the readers of the FLoricutturat Capinet. The entire class are deserving of attention; but a selection of the best is IN THE OPEN BORDER, 35 worthy of every recommendation and encouragement. I shall therefore make some general remarks upon them, and give a few rules for suc~ cessful cultivation. Annual Flowers are usually divided into three classes, viz., Tender Annuals, comprising such as require to be under glass during the whole period of their growth. Nevertheless, a few of them that are so termed will flourish in the open bed, turned out of pots in June, as Browallia, Salpiglossis, Cleome, Martynia, and a few others. Half- hardy Annuals comprise those which are usually raised under glass, and afterwards transplanted into the open border, as is done with the Ten Week, Russian and German Stocks, Asters, Zinnias, Marigolds, Brachycoma,Clintonia, Calandrinia, Hibiscus, Phlox Drummondi, and others. Hardy Annuals are those sown in the open garden, where they are finally to remain. In large gardens, grounds, &c., any, or all of the Annual Flowers may be grown, so as to be in accordance with every other class of flowers, size, &c., which are attractive everywhere. There is a position suited for the noble and magnificent display of the Sunflower, as well as the beautiful humble Nemophila, &c., and when they die off there is in general a permanent provision for a winter garden of evergreen beauty in the admirable variety of shrubs, &c. In small gardens, a selection of the best, most suitable in size, and attractive in a variety of rich colours, is requisite. Annuals require to have room sufficient to stand clear of each other, in order to neatness, and for the develope- ment of their beauties. Therefore their size and habit should be con- sidered in connection with the garden, so that the flowers be in harmony with near surrounding objects. In order to keep up the beauty and ornament of a small plot of flower-garden, when the Annuals die off, evergreens in pots should be plenteously sunk in the beds, such as Hardy Heaths, Lauristinus, Holly, Rhododendrons, Double Blooming Berberis, Whin, Cedars, Arbor Vite, Box, &c. These having served the winter garden purpose, are readily removed, and a summer’s cul- ture elsewhere prepares them for the next contingency. Tender Annuals are sown in pots in February, and placed in a hot- bed frame, or in some similar moist heated situation, and are trans- planted into small pots as soon as strong enough ; afterwards re-potted, &e., as is done with Cockscombs, Balsams, Amaranthus, &c. Half-hardy Annuals are scwn in pots, or on a slight hot-bed in February, or early in March, and, when strong énough, are in most cases pricked out into pots, or upon another slight hot-bed, &c., where they remain till the end of April or early in May,.as the season may dictate when they are planted out where it is intended they should bloom. , r Bie Hardy Annuals are usually sown in the open ground where they are finally to remain, where it can be done, and an abundance of seed is in possession; there are many kinds will endure the winter, and such bloom early in the following spring. 'The time to sow for this purpose is in August and September. The spring sowing generally takes place at the end of March, or early in April. The soil being lightened up and broken fine, some finely sifted being sprinkled over it and levelled, the seed is then scattered upon it, and gently pressed 36 ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUAL FLOWERS into the soil, by using a piece of circular formed wood, or the bottom of a garden-pot ; this being done, as much fine sifted soil is spread over the seed as will cover the smallest about an eighth of an inch, and the larger deeper in proportion, gently pressing the surface, which induces a more certain and quick germination. If the weather be showery, or the ground at the surface be moist, till the seeds vegetate and the plants appear, no other means need be employed ; but if the season be dry, as soon as the seed is sown, a garden-pot, common tile, or draining tile, placed over it for a week or so, will prevent the sun and air from damaging the seed. If the seed be once rendered soft by moisture, and then allowed to become dry, its vitality is thus destroyed. This is the reason so many failures occur, and not, as is generally the complaint, through the seed being defective when sown. When a small garden has to be supplied, a few patches of seed may be sown in small pots, be raised in a gentle warmth in a room, frame, &c., and then be turned out with entire balls at the proper period, when the plants are strong enough. When a patch of plants is crowded they must be carefully thinned, so as to leave only as many as will form a vigorous supply. The following list contains the best hardy Annuals of each class of colours :— rr a EE Time of Colour. Height Flowering. in feet. Systematic Name. English Name. Ageratum odoratum . «| Ageratum . .|JunetoSept., Blue. .| 2 Campanula Loreyi. . .~ | Bell Flower . & 99 2 Centaurea cyanus . .- . | Blue-bottle. . iA An 3 Collinsia grandiflora . . | Collinsia or a) 1 VENA © ilshdte Me! his y4 May—Aug. Ri 1 Convolvulus minor . . | Bindweed . . | May—Sept. ss 3 Delphinium ajacis. . . ; Larkspur : es By 2 Echium violaceum . . | Bugloss. - | June—Oct. ap OY Ipomeea violacea, C. . . | Bindweed . . | May—Sept. | i. 4 Kaulfussia amelloidis . . | Kaulfussia . . | June—Sept. | 9 4 Lupinus elegans . « + Lupine. . ~ | June—Oct. | 9 1 nanuS. e ery iil 9 29 a9 ] Nemophila insignis . . | Nemophila. . | June—Sept. sia 4 — grandiflora . . . rid as 4 Nolana atriplicifolia . . Nolana. . . e oe i Antirrhinum Spartium . | Snapdragon . | July—Oct. Yellow. . 1 Borkhausia lutea . . «| Hawkweed. . | June—Sept. oA 2 Calliopsis bicolor . . . | (Coreopsis). . | June—Oct. | 9 2 fNectoria “, os »,)%e *5 Ba 5% 2 Centaurea suaveolens . . | Yellow Sultan . | June—Sept. | 4 2 Cerinthe major . . . | Honeywort. . | June—Oct. 2 1 Escholtzia compacta . . | Escholtzia . . a | x 1 Californica . . «+ s na 5 2 Helianthus annuus. . . | Sunflower . . | July—Oct. a5 4 Hibiscus Africanus major. | Hibiscus . . | June—Sept.) = ,, 1 Lupinus lutens. . . ./| Lupine. . . | July—Sept. | 5 2 Sphenogyna speciosa . ~ | Sphenogyna . | June—Sept. | ax 1 Tagetes (various) . . . | Marigold . «| July—Oct. ~~ 2 Zinnia lutea” “ert. oes |o2inmia’ . 2s Ls a 2 Amaranthus giganteus. .| Amaranth . . | June—Sept. Purple. .| 3 Campanula pentagonia . Bell-flower. ~ | June—Oct. | ‘9 2 Centaurea moschata . . Sweet Sultan . $i9 a 2 Goodetia Lindleyana . . | Goodetia . . | July—Sept. a 1 IN THE OPEN BORDER. 37 eS SS A SA Systematic Name. ——$s ——_———— Tberis umbellata . —— sanguinea. . « .« Prismatocarpus speculum . Schizanthus humilis . Calendula pluvialis -. . —hybrida . .. -» Digitalis longifiora Iberis alba. . oe Nemophila atomaria . . Lavateriaalba. . . Schizopetatum Walkeri Adonis estivalis . . . — autumnalis Amaranthus caudatus . — hypochondria. . Calliopsis atrosanguinea . Cheiranthus ditto. . . Dianthus chinensis. barbatus . . . Iberis coccinea. . . - Papaver Rheas . . . — somnifera uss La Persicaria orientale. Lathyrus coccineus. Tropzolum atrosanguineum Agrostemma celia rosea . Clarkia pulchella . . . rosea plena . Crepis rubra - Goodetia rubicunda ~ Leptosiphon adrosace . Lychnis rosea . Saas Malope trifida. . . » —— grandiflora . . Silene grandiflora . armeria Senecia elegans. . .« Cacaliaaurea . . . . Carthamus tinctorius . . Calendula stellata. . . Chrysanthemum coronaria Escholtzia crosea . .« Erysimum Perotskianum . Tropeolum minus. . English Name. Candy Tuft. a? Venus’s Looking Glass. Schizanthus. Cape Marigold. i] Foxglove . . Candy Tuft. Nemophila . Lavatera Schizopetatum . Pheasant’s Eye. be] Love-lies-Bleed- ing. Princess Feather (Coreopsis) . Wallflower . Indian Pink Sweet William . Candy Tuft. Ranunculus Poppy. Carnation Scar- let Poppy. Persicaria Scarlet Sweet Pea Nasturtium Campion Clarkia. . 3 Double Clarkia. Hawkweed . (GEnothera) . Leptosiphon Lychnis . . Malope . bed Catchfly . Lobel's ditto Ragwort . Cacalia . Dyer’s Weed . Cape Marigold . The Double Orange. The Orange . Hedge Mustard. Nasturtium . Time of Flowering. June—Sept. May——Sept. June—Oct. May—Sept. J uly—Oct. June—Sept. Led Jul y—Sept. May —Aug. June—Nov. July—Oct. J une—-Oct: May—Oct. June—Oct. June—Sept. May—Aug. June—Sept. 2»? June—Oct. June—Sept. May—Oct. July—Oct. June—Sept. alt 9? +? J une—Aug. June—Oct. May—Aug. mS June—Oct. June—Sept. July—Oct. June—Sept. July—Oct. May Sept. June—Oct. Colour. Purple 2) 9) 99 White . > 33 39 9? as ’°) Scarlet-red and crimson. 9~9 bi 9? a»? 9? be) +?) ” +? Pe) 9? Orange bad | Height in feet. -_-— a) OTN el a Oe RENN RK NNR WNW PO iv) Nore NK Wh w& Coe Ce ed To the above might be added others of intermediate colours, as lilac, pink, &c., which the space I may be allowed at present will not admit ; but any required colour being named to the seedsman would readily be supplied. To the sorts enumerated in the preceding list many of the 38 ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUAL FLOWERS, German, Turkey, and China Asters are suited in colours, and Russian, Ten Week, and other Stocks; also Larkspurs, Zinnias, &e., which are often raised by sowing in the open ground in the warm southern parts of this country, but in general require in other situations to be raised on a slight hot-bed, and afterwards transplanted, &e. . Half:hardy, usually requiring to be raised in a warm frame, or in pots, &c. Systematic Name. English Name. = Sahl Colour. eign Asters (see list below) . - July—Nov. | Various .| 2 Brachycoma iberidifolia Brachycome 45 Blue 2 Calandrinia grandiflora . | Calandrina. . | June—Oct. | Rose . 2 distolor, 3; . = Ae 45 Purple 2 —— speciosa - + « -« na at Maroon . 5] Clintonia elegans . . «| Clintonia . . | June—Sept. | Blue 1 pulchella. . . . AF 4 Blue and 1 White. Dianthus speciosus. . . | Pink . a Crimson . 1 latifolius . Sehlie aia 5h a Elichrysum bracteatum . | Everlasting . | June—Oct. | Yellow .| 2 Matthiola annua . . . | Stocks (see list below). Phlox Drummondi . .| Phlox . . .« | June—Oct. | Crimson,&c.) 2 Portulacca splendens . . | Purslane ax ae il —Thellusonia . . . 58 a pape: 1 Rhodanthe Manglesii . . | Rhodanthe. . ‘ty Rose . . 1 Senecio flora plena alba . | Double Ragwort By White . 2 —— purpurea . che eye Ae Purple 2 Tagetes (various) . . ~ | Marigold, French} June—Sept. Bree 2 and African. Viscaria oculata . . . | Viscaria. . . -= ROSE wale Zinnia (various) . . . Say Pi Various 1 ale ASE a RE OS ST TE er Some of the above kinds of annuals having an extensive number of varieties, the following enumeration of them is given, to aid in a more general selection :— German Asters.—l. Flesh coloured; 2. Pale Rose; 3. Pale Blue; 4. Dark Blue; 5. Rose coloured; 6. Pale Lilac; 7. Dark Red; 8. Ash Grey; 9. White; 10. Light Blue; 11. Dark Blue- edged; 12. Light Red and White; 13. Dark Lilac ; 14. New Dwarf White; 15. White Anemone Flowered; 16. White Quilled; 17. Striped Red and White; 18. Red Anemone Flowered; 19. Mixed coloured Anemone Flowered; 20. New Dwarf Red; 21. Dark Red and White; 22. Light Blue-edged ; 23. Yellowish White ; 24. White; 25. Flesh-coloured; 26: Light Blue, dark ground; 27. Pale Blue- edged; 28. Light Red. German Ten Week Srocxs.—Russian Stocks, Close flowered.— 1. Deep Rose; 2. Pale Rose; 3. Peach-coloured ; 4. Violet, with White spots; 5. Pale Rose, with White spots; 6. Dark Grey; 7. Flesh-coloured; 8. Dark Blue; 9. Peach-coloured; 10. Light Blue ; 11. Maroon ; 12. Light Brick Red; 13. Carmine; 14. Chestnut; 15. Light Brown; 16. Dark Brown; 17. Red Brown; 18. Dark Cin- namon ; 19. Cinnamon, Yellow Crown; 20. Light Violet; 21. Striped CULTURE OF CHOROZEMAS. 39 Rosa Centifolia; 22. Frankfort Red; 23. Copper-coloured; 24. Ash Rose ; 25. Poppy Grey ; 26. Pale Grey; 27. Variegated; 28. Dark Ash-coloured; 29. Light Maroon; 30. Apple Blossom; 31. Pale Cinnamon; 32. Pale Blue; 33. Rose; 34. Poppy Blue; 35. Purple; 36. Dark Blue, Wallflower-leaved. Distant flowered.—43. Carmine; 44. Giant Scarlet; 45. Flesh- coloured ; 46. Dark Carmine ; 47. Dark Blue; 48. White ; 49. Light Blue; 50. Red Gray ; 51. Chocolate; 52. Deep Violet. Late Fiowerine, or Autumn, German Stocks, blooming from August to November.— Close flowered.—53. Violet; 54. Copper, Wallfiower-leaved ; 55. Dark Copper; 56. Light Copper; 57. Car- mine, with Wallflower-leaf; 58. Violet, with Wallflower-leaf; 59. Dark Maroon; 60. Flesh-coloured ; 61. Dark Blue; 62. Peach Blos- som; 63. Dark Brick-coloured ; 64. Pale Brick-coloured ; 65. Bright Carmine; 66. Carmine ; 67. White. Distant flowered.—68. Red Gray; 69. Dark Blue; 70. Dark Brown; 71. Dark Carmine; 72. Pale Blue; 73. Dark Violet; 74. Red Grey; 75. White; 76. Red Brown; 77. Copper-coloured ; 78. Cinnamon. German WinTER Stocx.—This class of Stocks is similar to the English Brompton Stocks.—79. Pale Rose; 80. Carmine; 81. Dark Blue; 82. Pale Blue; 838. White; 84. Brick-colour; 85. White Wallflower ; 86. Violet Blue; 87. Giant Scarlet ; 88. Peach-colour. Zinnias.—89. White; 90. Dark Scarlet; 91. Yellow; 92. Dark Purple; 93. Bright Scarlet; 94. Golden; 95. Bright Purple; 96. Violet; 97. Red; 98. Rose; 99. Buff; 100. Crimson. I purpose to forward, for insertion in the next Number, a descrip- tive list of the most showy greenhouse plants which will flourish in beds in the open air during summer, and afterwards, a similar list of perennial border plants. CULTURE OF CHOROZEMAS. BY THE MANAGER OF A FLORAL ESTABLISHMENT. Tuts is a lovely and beautiful genus, profuse in blooming, striking in its varied colours, and, like all the pea-shaped class of flowers, is highly interesting. Some years’ practical attention in propagating and gene- ral management of an extensive stock, enables me to give in detail some useful information thereupon. Cuttings should be taken of the young shoots when about an inch and a half long, cutting them off entire, with a small portion of the old stem producing them. This old portion usually sends forth roots freely, inserted in the usual sand used, and covered with a bell glass, plunged in a gentle bottom heat. When well rooted, they are potted off singly into 60-sized pots, a free drainage, and in a compost of one-half turfy peat, one-quarter of old decomposed cow-dung, and the remain- ing quarter of white sand, pieces of charcoal, charcoal dust, bits of pots or sand-stone, &c. The plants are placed for about ten days in a close frame, then removed to a situation in the greenhouse, &c., placed near the glass or in a draught of wind. The plants are repotted in 40 ROSES OF SPECIES. proportionate-sized pots, as required, always using the materials of compost in a chopped or rough state. Plants that are arrived at a moderate size, of the large-leaved kinds, require more water than the others, and to them I give occasionally manure water. I never expose the plants to the open air, as is done to greenhouse stock in general, but retain them in the house uniformly, also shading them from the sun, which, when powerful upon them, is very injurious. At the ap- proach of autumn less water is supplied, as it is an essential to success. It is an essential to success, as the autwmn approaches, gradually to give less water, for if an abundance were continued when the general growth had ceased, it would tend to destroy the delicate fibrous roots, and speedily, often suddenly, the entire plant. Especial attention to this matter in their management should be given. Those kinds which grow thin of shoots and erect habit, and somewhat liable to become naked, may readily be kept bushy by pinching off the ends of the shoots which induces the production of laterals. By the above management, vigorous, never-failing, healthy plants are maintained. ROSES OF SPECIES: REQUIRED VARIATIONS IN THEIR CULTURE, BY ROSA. In the many excellent observations on the cultivation of the rose, which have appeared in the Canrner and other works on horticulture, I have frequently observed that the rules, though most excellent in them- selves, as applied to many species of roses, have usually been too general, and have proceeded on the principle of considering most species as requiring the same modes of treatment, while the great difference in the habits, nature, places, and manner of growth seem to me to point out important variations in the soil, situation, and mode of cultivation required by many of the different species. I therefore would state some of the differences and places of growth, in a wild state, of some of the species, and the variations that they seem to suggest in the culture. Though plants are greatly altered by culture, yet they generally retain a considerable bias to the soil and situation for which, by nature, they are formed: and it is usually within a certain range only, of what I would call their natural habits, that they are capable of improvement by cultivation. In taking a cursory view of the difference which there appears to me to be among some of the species of roses, I shall, to make myself better understood, separate the genus into five divisions. In the first division, place Rosa spinosissima and its varieties ; the R. lutea, sulphurea and cinnamonea, which, from their slender shoots, small and numerous thorns, and fibrous roots growing very near the surface of the ground, are all, I believe, plants in their wild state growing on heaths and places where there is but little depth of soil, and are surrounded only by plants of a low stature; they would seem, therefore, to require to be planted in an airy situation, and not to need much depth or strength of soil; as in their natural places of growth, ROSES OF SPECIES. 41 they are exposed to the browsing of cattle, and we find them to bear much cutting and shortening of their shoots. In the second division I include the numerous varieties of Rosa provincialis, centifolia, gallica, and muscosa. The varieties of these species are so numerous, that this division contains the greatest number as well as many of the most beautiful roses ; they appear to me to be plants which, judging from their manner of growth, have in their natural situations to contend with high grasses and other strong grow- ing perennial plants; when overpowered by these, they, as it were, remove by sending out roots near the surface of the ground, which, when they reach a more airy spot, throw up suckers, these exhaust the old plant, and form a new one in a better situation; the roots of this division, though less fibrous than those of the first, yet are so much so, and grow so near the surface of the ground, as not to require either a strong or deep soil. It is to the roses of this division that the rules usually given for the cultivation of roses chiefly apply, particu- larly those for cutting the last year shoots to a few inches in length, and removing the stems when three or four years old. The third division consists of Rosa villosa rubiginosa, moscheta alba, damascena, and canina: the roses of this division have much stronger roots than the others, and strike much deeper into the earth. The place of their growth in their wild state is among large, strong growing shrubs and trees; they therefore require a much stronger and deeper soil, and a less airy situation than the two former divisions. They do not need, nor bear so much pruning of the shoots; indeed, some of these species are often rendered less productive of flowers for a year or two, by too much cutting ; and the main stems of some of them, the R. villosa for example, will send out good blooming shoots for more than half a century, with only a moderate occasional pruning to keep the plant in proper form and bounds. The fourth division consists of Rosa arvensis, sempervirens, Banksie, and multiflora. These roses, in their’ natural state, trail along the ground, or support themselves by bushes growing near them, they therefore do not require a very airy situation: their roots are strong, but not so strong as some of those of the last division, and therefore seem to require rather a lighter soil; they must be supported or nailed against a wall. The fifth division consists of Rosa semperflorens and indica. The sudden and rapid way in which these roses send forth their shoots im- mediately on a change from cold to heat, points them out as growing in their wild state on mountains covered with snow a part of the year, and, like other natives of such places, with rapidity, taking advantage of an interval of warmth to grow, bloom, and ripen their seed. I shall be highly gratified if any of the foregoing observations should tend to make any of your readers better acquainted with the nature of some of the species of this genus of plants, which certainly consists of the most beautiful, elegant, and lovely flowers in existence, and which in every country, where they will grow, are universally es- teemed. Vol. xv. No. 2.—NS. D 42 DOUBLE FLOWERS. BORONIA SERRULATA. Ara meeting of the Streatham Gardener’s Society, Mr. Hale read an excellent paper on the cultivation of this plant. ‘‘ He observed, that the Boronia serrulata, with its fragrant pink blossoms, was a very valuable plant for drawing rooms, &c. He had had the plant under his care for the last fifteen years, and as the result of his long acquaintance, he was enabled to offer the following remarks :—Cuttings will root freely in a gentle bottom heat, with the assistance of a bell glass ; the soil should be rich peat and sand sifted through a fine sieve ; when they are rooted, they are to be potted off intv three-inch pots, which are well drained with potsherds and turfs; they are then placed in a frame where the temperature averages from 50 to 60 degrees, and are kept shaded from the sun. As soon as their roots have reached the sides of the pots, they should be removed to a cold frame, admitting no air for the first fort- night, and shading from the mid-day sun; water must be used very sparingly for a week or two. ‘To grow large plants, commence shifting as early as possible in the month of February or March, according to the strength of the plants. ‘The peat should be used as coarse as the size of the pots will allow, with plenty of sand intermixed. The plants which have been kept for blooming may be shifted as soon as the flowers begin to fall; then place them in a vinery or pit for a fortnight, adopting the same precautions as already mentioned ; by this time they may be removed to a cold frame, where they are to remain for the next three months. When placed in the greenhouse, care must be taken to stand them in a situation where there is no draught, as they require very little air and water during the winter months. ‘To convince the mem- bers that the plants sustain much injury by standing in the draught, if they do not die, Mr. Hale exhibited two plants, one in a green, healthy condition, and the other in a brown state; this latter he attributed to the plant standing near a cracked pane of glass; if left in this state any considerable time, they very seldom recover so as to attain anything like perfection. By strict attention to the treatment recommended, plants may be brought to a great size in a short time. Like many other plants, it has now become greatly neglected, in consequence of continued failures. Mr. Claridge could bear testimony to the high state of cultivation of Mr. Hale’s Boronias, and also to his continued success in striking cuttings for several years past. Mr. Brown had also seen them propagated with great success by the plan mentioned by Mr. Hale. Mr. Taylor had grown the Boronia for several years, and had flowered them pretty well, but not equal to Mr. Hale’s plants, neither in the colour of the foliage nor in the size of the plant. DOUBLE FLOWERS. Waar mistaken means are employed for obtaining these, and how many erroneous circumstances are, up to this very day, says the Revue Horticole, admitted to explain the cause of doubleness in certain flowers ! Thus, for example, many gardeners pretend that to obtain double Brompton Stocks, you must gather the seeds exclusively from those flowers which are the most double. What influence can these flowers Ebi a sz lilt PROPAGATION OF THE CALAMPELUS SCABER. . 43 have when entirely deprived of all the organs of generation? None whatever. ‘To explain this phenomenon, we must make practice agree with theory. Every gardener who sows seed, wishes to obtain plants with double flowers, so as to obtain blossoms which produce the greatest effect. Every double plant is a monstrous vegetable. ‘To produce this anomaly, we must attack the principle of its creation, that is to say the seed. ‘This being granted, let us examine in what way these seeds ought to be treated. If, after having gathered the seeds of Mal- comia annua, or 'Ten-weeks Stock, we sow them immediately afterwards, the greatest number of the seedlings will produce single flowers, whilst, on the contrary, if we preserve these same seeds for three or four years, and then sow them, we shall find double flowers upon nearly all the plants. To explain this phenomenon, we say, that in keeping a seed for several years, we fatigue it and weaken it. ‘Then, when we place it in a suitable soil, we change its natural state, and from a wild plant make it a cultivated one. What proves our position is, that plants, in a wild state, shedding their seeds naturally, and sowing them as soon as they fall to the ground, yet in a long succession of time scarcely ever produce plants with double flowers. We think then, after what we have said, that whenever a gardener wishes to obtain double flowers, he ought not to sow the seeds till after having kept them for as long a time as possible, ‘This practice ought to be observed with all plants that we wish should produce double flowers, for all varieties of the Brompton Stocks, Pinks, &c. As to Brompton Stocks, Ten-week Stocks, and others of the same kind, there is no doubt that to flower them well they should be sown in autumn in well-worked soil, taken up when the cold weather comes, and kept under a frame during the winter. In the spring they may be planted out again, when they will flower magnifi- cently, and yield an abundant harvest of seeds. If you have not a frame at your disposal, you may obtain the same result, by sowing the seeds at the end of February, under a south wall, for example. The principles that we admitted above are just as applicable to Melons and all plants of that family. We admit, like many other observers, that Melon plants obtained from seeds the preceding year ought to produce, and do produce, really very vigorous shoots, with much foliage ; but very few fruitful flowers appear on such plants, whilst, on the other hand, when we sow old seeds, we obtain an abundance of very large fruit. In fact, in all varieties of the Melon the seeds should always be _ kept from three to eight years before being sown, if we would obtain fine fruit, and plenty of it. PROPAGATION OF THE CALAMPELUS SCABER (EcremMocaRrPts). BY LUCY. In the month of January, place an old plant in a vinery or hot bed, so as to get it to break ; when the shoots are about three inches long take them off with a sharp knife, being careful to take a small piece of the old bark with the cuttings, and plant them in light vegetable mould 44 DISCOVERY OF PROCESS TO PRESERVE FLOWERS. and sand under glasses; they will quickly strike root, and in a month will be fit for potting ; the composition should consist of equal parts of rotten dung, leaf-mould, and loam. Plants raised this way from cut- tings will flower well the first year, when those raised from seed will not blossom till the second year. In raising from seed it should be sown as soon as ripe, and placed in the green-house; the plants will be fit for potting in the spring. DISCOVERY OF PROCESS TO PRESERVE FLOWERS. Amonce the recent scientific discoveries, we are informed that Dr. Fascale, a chemist at Westeras, in Sweden, has announced to the Academy of Sciences at Stockholm his discovery of a process for pre- serving flowers in their natural condition. He sent, it is stated, some Roses which he assures the Academy were prepared by him in 1844. CLEMATIS SIEBOLDII (Bicotor). BY AN EXHIBITOR. AuruoucH this beautiful flowering plant will grow tolerably freely in the open air in this country, yet when it blooms they are comparatively small, and nearly entirely white ; but when grown in a warm pit frame, the green-house, or conservatory, the flowers are much larger, have a delicate tint of sulphur over the white and the almost black centre, producing a handsome contrast, and rendering it very ornamental. It does equally well trained against a pillar, trellis, or grown in a pot and coiled round a wire framework. I have had 360 flowers upon a plant at one time. My mode of treating is the following. The plant always flourishes best when raised from layers, or cuttings, not grafted upon the root of another kind. In December I pot, or re-pot, the plant, giving it a liberal drainage, over which is laid some pieces of chopped turf. The plant is divested of its former soil, the roots are coiled around the sides of the pots, and as the compost is filled in they are spread in the compost around the sides; when completed I prune in the branches to about 8 or 10 eyes, and place it in warmth for a week or 10 days, then remove it to a cool pit, till the end of March, when I place it in the green-house, giving it a frequent syringing, &c., and the vigour and beauty it displays is much beyond what I have seen in any other plant. SLUG GUARD. To repel the attacks of slugs and snails on plants, it is stated in Johnson’s Gardeners’ Almanae that Mr. Sharp, of Winchester gas- works, employs a simple and effectual remedy by encircling the rim of each pot with a piece of horse-hair rope, partially cut across its strands. The bristles start forward and present a chevaux-de-frieze which neither slugs nor snails can surmount. It is very durable, may be used to protect any plant, and is rather ornamental. o” os 4 eo #3 AS a matter of course a Floricultural Calendar for this x of BSCS sc SUEZ Ee PUTO sz 2V'OP pee me AE a 23 ad IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. aa GP.AICHOL ijl os 1 ; tii 4 month must to a certain extent be acted upon as it relates to open air operations, coal-pits, frames, &e., only as the weather is favourable for the operations detailed. If the weather con- tinues severe sufficient protection must be given, as during last month, to all tender things. Any alterations of ground or planting trees should be completed early as possible; and the collection of soils, manures, &e., to form composts, be laid on heaps—turn former heaps, &e. If there be Rose-trees to plant this season, they ought to be done during the present month, or their growth will be hazardous if deferred to March, and even if they live they do not thrive well during the summer, Give a good top dressing now to established plants of well rotted manure. Prune the hardy kinds. Perennial and biennial border flowers should be divided, if required, planted, &c. Turf may be laid at the end of the month. Take the first opportunity about the middle of the month, if the weather be dry, to plant Ranuneuluses and Anemonies in the prepared beds, placing them at five inches apart, and an inch and a half deep from the crown to the surface, and if the soil be dry gently press the surface with a flat board. The sharp frosts of this season will have greatly benefited the beds by purifying the soil. Awriculas and Poly- anthuses should have a portion of the old surface soil taken away, and be replaced by a good earthing up of rich compost, this will be re- quired about the last week in the month. Tulips having made ap- pearance above the ground will require especial attention, especially in giving secure protection from sudden frost. Bear in mind that on the attention paid to them from this period depends their after success. The continued frost of last month would not permit much fresh air being admitted to late potted Carnations and Picotees ; on every fa- vourable occasion now, therefore, do not neglect to afford abundance, as it will retard premature growth and materially promote vigour here- after. Beds of Pinks, Heartsease, and autumn planted Ranunculuses should have particular attention both as to protection from frost, and the stems of the plants being firmly secured, also the surface of the bed lightly stirred up. When strong frost subsides, and the gravel walks are thawed they are generally very light to the depth of a few inches ; where the surface gravel requires to be loosened for the pur- pose of adding to it some new, it is in that thawed state performed very readily, and to do it then saves a great deal of trouble and ex- pense which would be incurred at a more advanced season. Now is the period for making a plan of the flower garden, parterre, &c., and 46 FLORAL OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH. to mark each bed with the kinds required, and then to prepare a stock to furnish accordingly. IN THE FORCING FRAME. Sow seeds of the tender annuals as Balsam, Amaranthus, Cockscomb, &c., in pots, and the half hardy kinds as Asters, Stocks, &c., either in pots or upon a bed of soil, &c. When sown in pots do not water the surface at the time, but after a few days if the soil be dry a gentle sprinkling may be given, and afterwards, till the plants are up, great care must be taken to keep it moist, for when once softened, if the seeds become dry destruction soon follows. Gardenias should be forced now, as also other similar plants. (See list in Stove department.) Cuttings of Hemimeris, Salvias, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lotus, Ana- gallis, and such like plants for the open beds in summer should imme- diately be struck, or the plants will be too weak to answer the purpose. If parts of cuttings were put off in autumn they should now be potted off singly into small pots, they will then be well established by turning out time; any long ones amongst them should be stopped to induce laterals and make bushy plants. Dahlia roots should be immediately put to force ; if increase is re- quisite, take off the shoots when about four inches long. Dahlia seed should be sown in pots, and only just covered. Lobelias, too, should be potted singly at the close of the month to have them vigorous by turning out time. Boxes and pots of Mignonette for suc- cession should be sown. Achimenes, Gesnerias, Gloxinias, &c., should be introduced to incite their immediate growth, and as soon as the plants have pushed, pot them, singly or otherwise, as desirable. Ama- ryllis, &c., may be excited in like manner. Hyacinths, &e., ap- proaching bloom, must be placed in an airy, light situation, and to those in glasses give a change of water every three or four days. At the closing part of the month pot singly Tigridia pavonia, and T. conchiflora into small pots. Sow immediately in pots seed of the Chinese Primrose, and as soon as the plants are fit to pot off do so in a rich compost; keep them in heat for a short time, and never water them over-head, as they are liable to be rotted off by its remaining in the centre ; care, too, is necessary not to give too much at the roots, for if kept wet they soon become sickly. The plants properly treated will bloom fine the same season. ‘The fringed flowered kinds are the best. IN THE COLD FRAME, GREENHOUSE, &c. Continue to preserve all inmates of the cold frame in as quiescent state as possible. In all cases when very severe weather continues for some time, it is necessary to keep the sashes close, and perhaps to re- tain during day as well as night the matted covering, much caution is therefore required to avoid destruction by damp. Admit air in abundance whenever the weather permits, and occasionally, when a mild day presents, clean the pit throughout, stirring the surface a little, also serupulously remove all dead leaves and branches from the plants. Carefully and sparingly give water now and then as abso- FLORAL OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH. AT lutely required only. By observing these simple rules much damp and frost too is easily withstood. In the Greenhouse, &c.—All air, in dry, favourable weather, must be admitted so as just to keep frost out. If damp a gentle fire may be applied when air cannot be admitted. Pelargoniums to be superb spe- cimens should be re-potted into their blooming pots. (Read the several articles on their culture in previous volumes). The surface soil in all pots should be stirred up, it tends to health. Epacris, Correas, Coro- nillas, Acacias, Cinerarias, and other plants will now be coming into bloom, water seldom as possible, but when given, let there be as much as will moisten ail the soil. Ericas will still generally be inactive, therefore give but little water as required, and recollect their proper situation is in the most airy part of the house. Camellias, too, should occupy an airy part, and the greatest care taken to keep the soil in an equally moistened medium state, using water of a temperature equal to that of the house; if these points are neglected it is likely the flower buds will drop. Alstroemerias, Lilium speciosum, and others should be re-potted. Any young plants which have filled their pots with roots should be potted into larger as they require from time to time. Ifa syringing of the plants over head be really necessary, let it be done in the morning of a day which is likely to be fine, and air be ad- mitted fully. In THE STOVE. Old plants of Fuchsia corymbiflora now gently pushed on will come finely into bloom by the first week in May, or if season be fine, earlier. Exotic seeds should now be sown (see articles in former volumes). Successive introductions of plants forced must be brought in, as Roses, Lilacs, Azalea, Acacia, Heliotropes, Correa, Coronilla, Cineraria, Sweet Violets, Cactus, Cyclamen, Gardenia, Justicia, Eranthemum, Honeysuckle, Pinks, Gesneria zebrina, Nerium, Mignonette, &c., and pots or boxes of Hyacinth, Narcissus, Persian Iris, Crocus, so as to have a constant succession of bloom. (See remarks on Hyacinth in January Calendar). All the plants now enumerated are suited, too, for a,warm conservatory, and as that useful appendage is often contiguous to a room they are doubly charming in such a situation at this early season. Orchidaceous plants should be re-potted now, as they may require. Take care that a due proportion of moisture is maintained in the atmosphere, although most of this tribe require to be quite dry at the root during the rest season ; yet they still require a somewhat moist atmosphere. DOUBLE FLOWERING STOCKS: THEIR PERPETUATION, BY CLERICUS. Mocu has been said and written upon the subject of raising double flowering Stocks, and after pursuing every method that has been recom- mended, there is unavoidably disappointment in raising from seed. In order to perpetuate the kinds of double Stocks I already possessed, it 48 BRIEF NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE, occurred to me that, as in the case of some other similar plants, I might increase them by striking cuttings; I therefore had a quantity inserted, and nearly every one struck root. As soon as sufficiently rooted I potted them off singly into small pots; and they were well established before winter. I kept them in a dry cold pit-frame, free from damp and frost, and in April planted them out in beds, where they bloomed more abundantly than those whieh were raised from seed. This process I repeated last year, and continued to the present with equal success. The idea of propagating Stocks from cuttings may at first sight appear tedious or tiresome, but it will not be found so in practice ; besides, there are other advantages to be derived from it, which are not so strictly within our reach when propagating from seed, viz., the cer- tainty of commanding groups of this lovely flower, all double, and, the equal certainty of perpetuating any favourite or peculiar variety. I have practised two methods of taking cuttings, and with equal success in striking them; but I much prefer the one to the other, as I find the two methods produce very different plants ; that which I consider the best, is to take the cuttings when the plants are in full bloom. On the side-shoots producing the flowers, beneath the existing corymb, another, and frequently two other, shoots are produced ; take off those shoots at their lower joint, before they show flower, with a sharp knife cut off the two lower leaves, insert them in pots half filled with any light, rich compost, and treat them as other soft-wooded cuttings. BRIEF NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE. Victoria RectA.—We have directed attention to this magnificent plant, by an extract from the Botanical Magazine, amongst our notes on new plants in the present number, referring our readers for further knowledge to the magazine itself. We have since observed, however, a re-issue of the account in a separate and smaller form, so that persons who are not regular subscribers to that publica- tion may easily possess it, as no doubt all those interested will do. Hyprancras.—A. S.—To change the colour of the flowers, your plants should have received preparatory treatment. Perhaps, however, you may yet turn them blue, if you now and then give them a weak solution of alum; we have known it to succeed. BorantcaL Drawines.—A Student.—To render these really useful they should accurately represent all the characters. The best method of rendering the pencilling permanent with which we are acquainted is that adopted by Mr. Christie, and de- tailed in the Pharmaceutical Journal, with which perhaps you may not be familiar. It is to “ dissolve pale resin in spirit of wine; lay the pencil drawing on its face upon a sheet of clean paper, and brush the back of the drawing with the solution. This penetrates through the paper in a few minutes, and as the spirit evaporates the resin is deposited as a varnish on the drawing. This has the advantage of not cockling the paper, which aqueous solutions will do; and as the brush only passes over the back of the drawing, none of the pencil marks are in any degree removed. This process will not answer with drawings on card, or any other substance too thick to be penetrated by the solution. In this case a weak solution of isinglass may be placed in a shallow dish, the drawing being passed through it so as to wet every part without touching it with a brush.” aheafaw eno ae ; $s Gee yal #5 OREN a> Stace” 8 : ‘ foe * Aaars r a Se he yoe8 ne, » %* HS raat Oe, vor a, f. CLE Zaza es VA Y ae ILLUSTRATIONS. A. HAS. LOUIS L?HERITIER, a French author on gardening, con- _ ferred the generic title, Gloxinia, to commemorate b. P. GLoxin, of Colmar, aGerman botanist. The tribe thus distinguished comprises plants of considerable beauty, highly interesting, and when in full bloom particularly showy and ornamental: they are also easy of management, and particularly deserving cultivation wherever practi- cable. The very beautiful inhabitant of our hothouses for many years, G. maculata, was the first species introduced into this country, and as long ago as 1739. It, like the subsequent species, was discovered in South America. The native habitation being on the margin of dense woods, where the surface soil of such situations is a light leafy mould. An intervening period of seventy-six years occurred before another species was introduced, viz., G. speciosa in 1815, afterwards G. caulescens in 1820, and G. hirsuta in 1824. Subsequently appeared G. digitaliflora, foxglove-flowered; G. tubifiora, tube-flowered ; G. discolor, two-coloured leaved; G. picta, painted-leaved ; and re- cently some others. This accession of so many diversified and beau- tiful species soon presented scope for the attempt to raise hybrids, and _ the result has been successful in producing several highly beautiful and novel varieties. The most singular and distinct of all is the one we now figure, viz. :— GLOXINIA FYFIANA—Mrkr. Fyre’s GLoxinia. Gesneriacea. Didynamia Gymnospermia. _ Itwas raised from seed saved in 1844, by Mr. John Fyfe, gardener, at Rothesay in Buteshire. It is supposed the seed was obtained from G. maxima, but what that had been impregnated by, it appears, is not known. The form of the flower and its erect position much resembles the lovely spring Geutianella. It bloomed for the first time in 1845, Vol. xv. No. 3,—N.S. E 50 ILLUSTRATION—GLOXINIA FYFIANA. and was exhibited in September at the Dunoon Floricultural Show, and subsequently at other places, where it attracted universal atten- tion and admiration, by its differing so widely from every other kind of Gloxinia, and the flowers being so strikingly beautiful. Messrs. Drysdale and Co. nurserymen, of Glasgow, purchased the stock of it, and plants may be had of them, or of ourselves as their agent for its sale in England, by the first week in April next. Like the other Gloxinias it blooms very freely, and its profusion of flowers, produced through the summer season, form a delightful ornament for the greenhouse, conservatory, or stove, and give it an especial claim to be grown in every one. One of the most interesting attentions in floriculture is that of raising new varieties of flowers. The Gloxinia presents an ample range for experiment and additional improvement in this way. The ease with which the impregnation is effected, and seed obtained, also the cir- cumstance of the plants blooming so speedily, alike invite to so pleasing a pursuit. Very excellent directions, in which we perfectly acquiesce, for the culture of Gloxinias have recently been given (January Number, p- 8,) by our respected correspondent, Mr. Wm. Chitty ; few remarks are therefore necessary on this occasion on that particular. In a com- munication, however, we have received from another correspondent, with whom the genus has long been a great favourite, are some inte- resting particulars, additional to those entertained by Mr. Chitty, which we gladly transcribe. “‘T have,” says our correspondent, *‘ devoted some attention to raising hybrids, by the impregnation of the most distinct sorts, and have been rewarded with some very handsome varieties. I principally impregnate the flowers which are produced at the early period of the year, by which selection, I obtained well ripened seed in the summer, and thus obtain the advantage of sowing the seeds immediately they are ripe, and the plants form tubers of a size that season, which, without injury, endure the rest period of winter. When the seed is sown as soon as ripe, it more certainly vegetates than if retained till the following spring. I sow the seed in flat pan-pots. I have a free drainage, use a turfy-chopped sandy-peat soil, the surface made even and about a quarter of an inch of silver sand spread over it, upon which I scatter the seed, pressing it gently into the sand and sprinkling over it just as much sand as will cover it out of sight. I place the seed in a hot-bed frame, covering a glass over the pot, and the plants soon appear. When they are strong enough to transplant I pot them off singly into small pots. The kind of compost I use is sandy peat, light loam, and old rotten cow-dung, equal parts, but Mr. Chitty’s may perhaps be better than mine; my plants, however, bloom profusely. I replace them in the hot-bed frame, and encourage their growth. About October, I gradually withhold water, and place the pots either in the shed, or cool part of my greenhouse, so as just to preserve them from frost. As soon as signs of returning growth are evinced the second season, I pot the tubers, and treat them similar to my older kinds, and they bloom vigorously that year. “ Any of the kinds that appear likely to be distinct and fine. and NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. 51 which I desire to increase, I do it readily by the following simple processes. By scooping out the leaf with its bud at the base from the parent stem or trunk, and inserting such in white sand, or sandy peat, at the side of a pot, pegging the same securely with a hook-peg as is used in layering, they quickly root and soon make fine plants. None ever fail by this process, and I prefer it to any other; but when I cannot obtain a bud with the leaf, as in the case of a present or two I had of a particular kind where no bud could be had, I have pursued the following method:—A pot was filled up with sandy peat to about an inch from the rim, over it was laid half an inch of white sand, which being settled with watering, I took the leaf, severed through the strong ribs thereof in a few places, and then spread it flat over the face of the sand, the rib side to the sand, and secured it by a few pebbles of gravel and one hooked peg to fasten the stalk. This I placed in the hot-bed frame, covered it with a glass, and from the sides of the cuts made tubers were soon formed and plants obtained. This method succeeds too, but it is not so certain as the other method, and much longer in its results. ** T treat my blooming stock as follows :—Early in February I take one-fourth of my roots, pot them in a compost of equal parts of light loam, sandy peat, leaf mould, and one year old rotten cow-dung. This compost [| use in a rough state, adding a free drainage of broken pot and chopped turf. I then place them in a moist stove, near the glass, duly attending to future culture. At the end of each of the three ollowing months I pot an equal portion, treat them as the others, and by this means extend the blooming to autumn. ** When the plants have ceased to*bloom I gradually withhold water, so that the tubers may have the proper period of rest, I have the four portions numbered, so that No. 1, planted early in February, is potted first the following season, and the plants become habituated to the time of potting and period of blooming. “* By pursuing the plan above stated, in connection with Mr. Chitty’s, one of the most lovely and profuse blooming tribe of plants will most amply repay for the attention given.” We may add, the mode of culture detailed by our correspondents applies uniformly to G. Fyfianaand all other kinds, unless we except G. maculata, and its closely allied species, G. pallidiflora, which, usually flowering at a late period, it is desirable to vary the treatment in order to prolong their bloom. To accomplish this they must be somewhat earlier excited into growth, and as they root rapidly they require repotting twice or more. If placed and retained in a higher temperature, too, than other kinds, they flourish with such increased Vigour as amply to reward for any particular attention bestowed. NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. BEGONIA FUCHSIOIDES—FUCHSIA-LIKE BEGONIA. Begoniacee.—Monecia Polyandria. Mr. Purpre discovered this singular and beautiful Begonia on the Ocasia Mountains of New Grenada, and forwarded it oa Royal E 52 NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. Gardens of Kew, where it has bloomed in the stove. It is profuse in elegant, rich deep scarlet drooping flowers. The plant grows about three feet high, and as it continues in bloom it is very ornamental for several months, for autumn and winter too. It isa pretty and distinct addition to this very interesting family of plants and deserves to be in every collection. Figured in Bot. Mag., 4281. CALANTHE CURCULIGOIDES— Y ELLOW-SPIKED CALANTHE. Orchidaceae. Gynandria Monandria. Discovered in the Straits of Malacca, from whence Messrs. Loddiges, of the Hackney Nursery, obtained it. ‘The flowers are produced in a spike about a foot long, they are of a firm waxy nature, and what renders it quite a novelty, is, they are of a bright yellow colour. Figured in Bot. Reg., p. 8. Currita Srnensis—CHINESE CHIRITA. Cyrtandracee. Didynamia Angiospermia. Mr. Fortune sent this plant from China when employed as collector for the London Horticultural Society. Its habit is that of a stemless Gloxinia, the flowers rising about eight inches high, and the blossoms are produced in compound corymbs. Each flower is tube-formed, an inch long, with open mouth divided into five lobes, and the colours purple varied with red, rose, and white. It produces its pretty flowers freely, and well merits cultivation. When grown in the stove and placed near the glass it thrives best, but we find it also to do well in the warm part of a greenhouse. EPIDENDRUM PLICATOM—THE PLAITED EPIDENDRUM. Orchidaceae. Gynandria Monandria. A native of Cuba, and has recently bloomed with Messrs. Loddiges. The plaited crenelled lip, is very singular ; it is a rich crimson colour, as are the petals at the back, but green on the inside, beautifully spotted with crimson; the sepals are green, slightly tinged with crimson. The flowers are produced in a shortish raceme. EripENDRUM PYRIFORME—PEAR-FORMED EPIDENDRUM. This plant is also a native of Cuba, and has bloomed with Messrs. Loddiges. Each flower is about two inches and a half across. The sepals and petals being of a reddish-yellow colour, and the lip a pale straw, veined with crimson. ERIOPSIS BILOBA—TWwo-LOBED ERIOPSIS. Orchidaceae. Gynandria Monandria. It belongs to the section of Maxillarida. The flowers are produced in a_long spike of a rich orange colour. It recently bloomed in the collection of J. J. Blandy, Esq., of Reading, who bought the fine col- lection of the late Mr. Barker, and this was one of the new things therein. NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS, 53 Eryturina Brpwittii—Mr. Brpwitr’s Corau TREE. Leguminosae. Diadelphia Decandria. An hybrid sent from Sydney by Mr. Bidwill to the Hon. and Rev. the Dean of Manchester, and has bloomed at Spofforth. EF. herbacea . impregnated by £. cristagalli, produced this plant, it is of intermediate habit, both in the growth and flowers, and a valuable acquisition. Its fine spikes of rich light crimson flower are very ornamental. Exaconum Purca—PurGa, or True JAvap. Convolvulacee. Pentandria Monogynia. This plant is indigenous to the Mexican mountains, and has bloomed luxuriantly in the Edinburgh Botanic Garden, cultivated in a cool frame. It is a twiner, extending many feet long, and flowers are of a purplish-red colour, each about two inches across the mouth. It is known in some collections as Jpomea Jalapa. Hisiscus Moscuevros—Musx Hisiscus. Malvacee. Monadelphia Polyandria. A hardy herbaceous plant, and an old inhabitant of our gardens, but seldom seen. It is a very ornamental plant, growing about four feet high and blooming in September and October. The flowers are six inches in diameter, of a pretty bluish colour, with a rich crimson eye, and like a large single Hollyhock in shape. In North America, where the plant is a native, it grows on the borders of marshes; in this country it appears to bloom best when cultivated in a pot and placed in a cool frame. Iris SETOSA—BRISTLE-TIPPED Iris. Iridacee. Triandria Monogynia. It is a hardy herbaceous species, a native of Siberia, grows about two feet high, blooming in the early part of summer. The flowers are of a handsome lilac colour, ornamented with crimson veins. Each flower is about four inches across. It is in the Chiswick Garden. NIPHZA ALBO-LINEATA—WHITE-LINED NIPHRA. Gesneriacee. Didynamia Angiospermia. The leaves of this plant are much like those of Achimenes picta in size and form, of a rich dark green hue, marked with white lines upon the nerves, and produce a very beautiful effect. The flowers are somewhat small, white in colour, and produced numerously in a ter- minal corymbous head. It merits a place wherever the Gesneria and Achimene are grown. SMITHIA PURPUREA—PURPLE-FLOWERED SMITHIA. Leguminose. Diadelphia Decandria. . Discovered in Bombay by J. S. Law, Esq. It has bloomed in the Royal Gardens of Kew last October. It is an annual, erect, branch- ing. The foliage is beautifully pinnate, like some of the Mimose, The flowers are small, about half an inch across, of a rich purple colour. They are produced in terminal racemes. 54 BRITISH PLANTS. BRITISH PLANTS: WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THEIR CULTURE. In the January Number of the FrorrcutturaL CABINET, a paper bearing the above title appears from the pen of our esteemed correspon- dent, W. Johnstone, Esq., Ballikilbeg House, and we are glad that attention has been directed to the subject, for it is an interesting one to the florist. The British Flora is one rich in beauties, yet we find few native gems in the garden parterres, and even little taste appears displayed in the selection of these few ; in fact, in many instances, they seem to have been chosen at random without any regard to their suitableness for garden ornament. ‘There are many of our British plants peculiarly well suited for giving gaiety to the flower border, both on account of their intrinsic beauty and neat habit; but they appear to have been entirely overlooked throughout the whole history of floriculture, in the eager desire for foreign novelties. We are by no means ungrateful to those florists who have enriched our gardens with the showy flowers of other climes; only, we regret that the en- thusiasm for these, should be the means of excluding our native favourites; we regret that many of the most beautiful floral gems of our own’ country are allowed to bloom and die uncared for on the mountain side, and on the banks of the murmuring rivulet far from the homes of men; we regret that, in the present far advanced state of floral art, the sentiment expressed by the poet in the following lines, is, in regard to British flowers, as true as that day they flowed from his en :— i * Full many a flower is born to blush unseen, And waste its sweetness on the desert air.” Yes, many a fair and fragrant flower blooms unseen, and diffuses its delicious fragrance unfelt, while it might be tending to the happiness of mankind; while it might be warming our hearts with its own beauty, as well as by its holy and sacred associations, for, as has been happily sung,— « A flower is not a flower alone, A thousand sanctities invest it ; And as they form a radiant zone, Around its simple beauty thrown, Their magic tints become its own, As if their spirits had possess’d it.” And this sentiment of the poet is peculiarly applicable to the children of our own woods and wilds, for many of them are invested with the sweetest and most endearing associations, the purest thoughts and the holiest feelings. It is presumed unnecessary here to urge the beauty of our native -wildlings; that has never been disputed. On the contrary we find them extolled and eulogised alike by botanist, florist, and poet, more than ever were the productions of tropical climes. And we sin- cerely hope that amateurs, and not amateurs alone, but likewise gardeners, will take up in real earnest the cause of the neglected native gems, and transfer many of them from their woodland homes to the garden border and there cultivate them with care and assuidity. BRITISH PLANTS. 55 Mr. Johnstoue hopes the ladies, who take a delight in the floral art, may be induced to effect the removal of the sweet wildlings. It would seem somewhat ungallant in us not likewise to invite the ladies to take an active part, and we would solicit them to do so. But we bear in mind that fair fingers are ill fitted for tearing up roots, and that fashionable slippers are somewhat unsuitable for scrambling up rocky heights and rugged hills. And we hope that considerations of that kind may induce the hardier sex to join heart and hand in the move- ment. Being ready to do our part, we propose in this and succeeding papers to analyse the British Flora, and see what species really deserve the attention of the florist, and to give such hints as may occur to us on the system of cultivation likely to prove most successful for the respective species; and thus to present our readers with a manual for the guidance in the good cause. It is not our intention to com- prehend in our list all the beautiful British plants; but only those which seem peculiarly eligible as objects for garden ornament. It is a fact very well known, that many plants which have a most beautiful appearance when growing in their natural situations, lose much of their beauty when cultivated in the garden; nay, often cease to be objects of admiration. It is likewise a known fact, that many plants, from the peculiarity of their habits, are very difficult of cultivation, and some cannot indeed be grown at all in ordinary gardens. With the plants of neither of these classes do we propose to deal. We intend to treat of those only which, from their great beauty and neat habit, appear fully deserving a place in the flower-garden, and, from the nature of the soil and situation in which they generally grow, and their geographical and local distribution, seem likely to be cultivated with success. 1. ANEMONE NEMOROSA, or Wood Anemone. This lovely vernal flower must be known to all those of our readers who indulge in occa- sional wanderings in the woods and shady dells, for in such situations it raises its beautifully delicate blossoms at a season when no other wood flower appears, and seems to tell us that it will soon be followed by the sweet Primrose and Cowslip. It isa plant quite easy of cultiva- tion, for we have seen it cultivated, although we believe it to be a rara avis in gardens. The intrinsic beauty and graceful habit of this flower render it well deserving of a place in every flower-garden ; but it is rendered even much more valuable to the florist from the cireum- stance of its flowering at a season when flowers are scarce, and when there is little life in the borders, it fills up the gap betwixt the season of the Snowdrop and Crocus, and the Primrose and Auricula. It has a tuberous root, somewhat similar to that of the common garden Anemone, and the root may be removed from the woodland to the garden border at almost any season. ‘The best season for removal is the autumn, when in a state of comparative rest: but it is somewhat difficult to find at that seasun in consequence of the plant not being in flower and covered by the Iuxuriant herbage around. Although dis- advantages attend the transplanting of the plant in the spring, when in flower, still we would recommend that season, for then it is easily found, and there is, at that time, no chance of any other plant being mistaken for it. It should be planted in light, not over-rich soil, and, if possible, in a shady border. From its dwarf habit it should occupy 56 BRITISH PLANTS. a situation in the front or lowest row of plants in the border, and treated in a way much similar to the single Anemone, and disturbed at no time except during the season of rest (the autumn and early part of winter), when the roots may be taken up and transplanted where re- quired. 2. AnEMONE PoxsaTILLa, or Pasque-flower Anemone. This is a very handsome species, although a rare plant, and consequently difficult to be procured. We do not fear but it would succeed equally well with A. memorosa under similar treatment as we have recommended for that plant. 3. Meconorsis cAMBRICA. This is a very beautiful plant, having bright yellow blossoms. In some places it bears the vernacular name of “ Yellow Tulip,” and in others that of ‘“ Welsh Poppy,” although it belongs to neither of the genera of Tulipa or Papaver ; it is how- ever nearly allied to the latter genus. Being a very rare plant it will be difficult to be procured ; but those living in the vicinage of any one of its few localities in this country should attempt to introduce it into their gardens. It grows (in its wild state) in rocky, shady, and moist places, and the florist should be guided by this fact, in its cultivation. It is perhaps probable that it may not succeed well in the exposed flower border ; but it really deserves a trial from those who may get handily in possession of plants of it. It should be planted in a shady situation, and, if possible, in a border lower than the surrounding ground, so that it may have abundance of moisture. If any reader succeeds in its cultivation we shall be very glad to hear of the fact. 4, EropuiLa vutcaris (Synonyme: Draba verna), or Common Whitlow grass. This is a lovely little annual plant, which, in spring, ornaments old walls and dry banks and bare. rocky places, with its beautiful white flowers. It is by no means a rare plant, and its seeds may be gathered abundantly in the situations it frequents if looked for in the months of May or June. It should be sown in the autumn in small masses throughout the flowe: borders, and it will reward the florist with a profusion of bloom throughout the ensuing spring. We have never seen it cultivated, nor does it appear in any seed list which we have perused; but we think there can be no fear of it succeeding well if a dry situation is secured for it. It is peculiarly well adapted (from its neat habit, and the situations in which it generally grows) for ornamenting an artificial rockwork. 5. CHEIRANTHUS CHEIRI, or Wild Wallflower. This is the type of our common garden Wallflower, which, however, cultivation has rendered a very distinct variety. The common wild plant is very beautiful, and should be cultivated for contrast. Its flowers are of a rich though light yellow, and it is well adapted for large rockeries. It would be superfluous to offer remarks on its culture, as it should be treated in every way similar to the common garden sort. Its seeds may be easily procured, as it grows abundantly on all ruins and dry roeky places. 6. Troiurus Evrormus, or Mountain Globe Flower. 'This isa noble flower, and well deserves the attention of the florist, although it seems to have hitherto met with his neglect; its large globular golden yellow blossoms would form a handsome ornament in the garden. The THE RANUNCULUS. sy | plant grows wild in moist hilly pastures and morasses in the north of England, and of Ireland, and throughout Wales and Scotland ; but can by no means be reckoned common. It isa perennial, and will succeed well in the garden with a little care. It should be removed in the spring and planted in a sunny but not very dry situation, and in soil with which peat has been liberally mixed, and kept well watered until fairly established. It grows pretty tall, and thus requires to be placed in a back row in the border; at least where the plants are ar- ranged according to their respective heights. This plant will well repay a little care and attention. 7. DrosERA ROTUNDIFOLIA, or Round-leaved Sundew. This is a very lovely and a very interesting little plant. ‘The flower is small, and by no means showy ; but the. orbicular leaves of the plant are covered with red glandular hairs, each of which bears on its summit a little drop of a viscid and pellucid fluid, making the leaves appear as if covered with dew-drops, and giving the plant a very beautiful appear- ance. The viscid fluid exuded from the glands retain insects which chance to light on the leaves. This plant is not suitable for cultivation in the flower border ; but should be grown ina small pot plunged in light earth in a cool frame facing the east, so that the plant may not be exposed to the drying influence of the noonday sun. It should be planted in peaty soil and attended well as to watering. Drosera longifolia and D. Anglica will thrive well under the same treatment ; and a small frame devoted exclusively to the cultivatiou of the three species would form an attractive object. THE RANUNCULUS, HOW TO GROW IT.* Ir is acknowledged by all that one of the most beautiful scenes which the garden presents is a well cultivated collection of Ranunculuses in full bloom. 'To grow them well, however, is often a matter of some difficulty, and although much excellent information has appeared in our own and other publications on the subject, we are always glad to receive the details of additional experience. A very neat and cheap treatise of 28 pages has just appeared, bearing the title at the head of this notice, to which we give our entire commendation. Its authors are Messrs. Tyso and Son, the celebrated Ranunculus growers of Wallingford, and we know of no one to whom we could refer, better qualified to afford practical information. Cultivators will do well to avail themselves of it, as it contains all the directions necessary, con- veyed in a concise and explicit manner. One short extract will show its style. “ ‘The foundation of all good culture is the adaptation of the compost to the natural habitat of the plant. Experience teaches that the Ra- nunculus delights in a rich hazelly loam, as the top spot of a pasture, * «The Ranunculus, how to Grow it; or, Practical Instructions in the Cultiva- tion of this favourite Florist’s flower, being the result of many years’ experience.” By Tyso and Son, Florists, Wallingford. Jackson and Walford, St. Paul’s Church Yard, London ; or may be had of the Authors. 58 CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE. of rather heavy and tenacious, not clayey, qualities, with the turf, and lay itin a ridge some months and turn it two or three times before use. A soil from a pasture abounding with, and luxuriantly sustaining, the British species of Ranunculus, or Butter-cups, has also been found congenial to the Asiatic species. Decayed stable and cow dung, in equal quantities, constituting together about one-third, added to two-thirds of loam, will, when mixed and thoroughly incorporated, form a compost for the main depth of the bed; reserving a portion of loam sufficient to make atop layer of soil two inches deep, to which about half the above stated proportions of well decomposed manure may be added. It is of importance that the tubers should not be placed in contact with Jresh manure, as it engenders disease in the roots, and consequent injury to the plants.” CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE (POLIANTHES TUBEROSA). BY AMICUS. OBSERVING a correspondent requests information on the culture of the Tuberose, and having grown them magnificent specimens, I for- ward the following, which I trust will be found useful to the inquirer. Bulbs of the Tuberose are annually imported from Italy, where they are grown extensively for exportation, as Hyacinths are in Holland. As they are sold very cheap, I purchase every autumn, having never been able to bloom satisfactorily those bulbs that I had flowered the preceding year. Comrost.— Equal parts of well-rotted cow-dung and light sandy turfy loam, not sifted but well chopped or broken, also having a liberal drainage. Porrinc.—I plant them early in November, singly, in small pots, placing the bulb in the soil about two-thirds deep, pouring a little sand around it to save it from being bound. TreATMENT.—After potting they are placed in the cool part of the greenhouse, and early in February taken into a hot-bed frame of tole- rable temperature, at the upper side thereof; here I allow them to remain until they have pushed the main stem to six or eight inches in length. As they push onward from the first, I gradually allow an increase of air, to prevent them being drawn up too rapid and so become weakly. If the pot be filled with roots before the stem attains the height named I repot into a size larger. At the period of growth I mention, I have them placed ina cooler situation ina frame, or warm part of my greenhouse, repot all into pots six inches across, and duly attended to in watering, tying up, &c. I grow specimens four to five feet high, with long spikes of large flowers. Occasionally, I give them liquid manure, which materially contributes to vigour. I find it most essential to success to promote their early growth in a hot-bed frame as described, and being potted in November, they push roots before so removed, and the stems thus shoot up vigorous, much more so than if newly planted in February and at once taken into the hot-bed. MIGNONETTE, 59 GROWING THEM IN THE OPEN AIR.—I pot, and otherwise promote the growth of the bulbs as before-mentioned, and when the height described, I turn them out of pots into the open ground, having a compost nearly a foot deep, as before described. I have a very sheltered warm situation near my sitting-room, a full south aspect, where they flourish well and afford a most delightful fragrance to the inmates by opening the window. A south aspected border under a wall, or front of a greenhouse, &c., is alike suitable. I find, when growing freely, a liberal supply of water is requisite. I have usually a few plants plunged in the borders of my pleasure- ground, where the walks are most frequented; the perfume of the flowers extends to a considerable distance and is delightfully agree- able. MIGNONETTE: ITS WINTER CULTURE. Few flowers, it is observed by Mr. Whiting in the Journal of the Horticultural Society, are more esteemed for bouquets in winter and early spring than the sweet-scented Mignonette (Reseda odorata) ; it is also very useful for the decoration of the drawing-room and conserva- tory at those seasons of the year. Although the Mignonette is not a delicate plant, yet it is not generally seen in the perfection to which it might be brought by the simple method of culture I am about to describe. To flower at or soon after Christmas the seed should be sown in the beginning of August, in pots of any convenient size. The soil should be good loam, moderately enriched with rotten dung, and kept open by a pretty liberal intermixture with old mortar or lime rubbish. It is essential that the pots be thoroughly drained, and upon the drainage a handful (more or less, according to the size of the pots, of one year old pigeon’s dung should be placed. After sowing the seed set the pots where they will not require frequent waterings, too much moisture being extremely injurious to Mignonette; for this reason, therefore, it will be safer to place the pots in a frame or pit, where they may be covered by the lights in rainy weather. As the plants increase in size they should be gradually thinned, ultimately leaving three or five in each pot. The principal point to be attended to now is judicious watering ; by this 1 mean giving water only when the plants really require water, and then in sufficient quantity to moisten the whole of the soil—not dribbling a few drops over the plants to-day to prevent them from being dry to-morrow—a practice too much followed with plants in pots. Pinch off any premature flowers that may appear, keep the pots free from weeds, and far enough asunder to prevent the plants from being crowded, and when they are removed to winter quarters, set them near the glass in an airy situation. A few of the plants might be placed in an intermediate house, or other situation rather warmer than a green-house, to come into bloom a little earlier than the rest. I have recommended the seeds to be sown in the pots, which is the method I prefer; but if more convenient, a sufticient number of self sown plants might be taken up and potted, only a few 60 CHANGE OF COLOUR IN THE HYDRANGEA. extras should be put in to allow for casualties, as the Mignonette trans- plants badly. The best Mignonette I ever saw grow was treated in this way ; but as it is not every gardener who can procure pigeon’s dung, I may add, that guano will be found an excellent substitute. — This admirable fertilizer must, however, be applied in a liquid state, and not before the pots have become well filled with roots, when a small quantity of guano, given at intervals of a week or so, will increase the vigour of the plants in an extraordinary degree. A second crop might be sown in the beginning of September, and managed in the same manner. Single plants will attain a large size in 32 or 24-sized pots, if the main branches are pegged down as they grow, and the flowers are kept pinched off for a time. CHANGE OF COLOUR IN THE HYDRANGEA. Tuer transformation of colours in the Hydrangea has long been a subject of peculiar interest. Mr. Kyle, a gardener at Leyton, in the United Gardeners’ Journal, states that his opinion is, any soil will change Hydrangeas to blue, more or less; that is to say, if it has never been under cultivation, and adds, “ I have drawn my opinions from the following facts, than which I must say nothing can better illustrate this freak of nature. My stock of plants were all taken from one parent, and they were all rose-coloured when grown in pots. After growing for two successive years, they were turned out into different parts of the flower-garden, which consists of different sorts of soil, and all those that were turned out where the soil was of a fertile nature kept to the original colour, but those that were planted in peat pro- duced blue flowers, and one, that produced them of the finest blue I have ever seen, was planted in a red tenacious clay, mixed with what is termed iron mould. ‘The plant certainly was a little screened from the hot sun, which might add to its colour. The most satisfactory instance of the whole was in the case of a plant that flowered for three or four years after being planted out in the border, and always true to the original colour; but as we had occasion to make a small piece of rock-work close to it,a mound of Epping Forest loam, placed there for the purpose of supporting the rock-work and growing the plants, came in close contact with the stems of the plant. After a year or so, the roots of the Hydrangea worked its way into this loam, and the con- sequence was that the side of the plant nearest to the rock-work pro- duced blue flowers, while the other side continued to bear them of the original rose colour, and this has occurred for four or five years. Last year I had no flowers, as they were all cut down by the severity of the season. JI intend this year growing some of the Hydrangea japonica in peat, to see the effect on that species. I hope that these instances of what seems a mystery to our limited senses, will be of some use in throwing light on this subject. The whys and the wherefores cannot alter the facts before our eyes. That there is a cause no person can doubt ; but I leave this subject for some one more able than myself to grapple with. SUMMER ROSEs. 61 THE DOUBLE SWEET VIOLET (VIOLA ODORATA PLENA). BY A. N. F. G. I HAVE noticed articles in a former volume on the culture of the much esteemed Neapolitan Violet, but I do not think the plan recommended, of growing the plants in an open border and transferring them upon a hot-bed just before forcing, a good one; it gives a check to the plants and they do not bloom so freely or near so fine as by the method I have for the last four years adopted. The following is the method I have pursued :— About the middle of April I place half a yard thickness of faggots, large enough for the sized frame I purpose to place over it ; upon these I lay a foot of mulchy dung, and over that a foot of good rotten manure, and lastly, six inches of good, rich, turfy loam and leaf-mould, equal parts, not sifted, but chopped. ‘The materials, of course, at the surface have a due inclination to the sun, &c. I take good stock plants, and plant them at nine inches apart over the entire surface, duly watering them, &c. through the summer, not allowing suckers to be produced beyond three inches from the old plant. Early in October I take off a portion of surface-soil between the plants, replace with a little fresh, put the frame over them, and give every attention to watering and a free admission of air in dry weather. At the end of the month I have a lining of dung and leaves placed to give a slight warmth, and pro- tect the sides of the frame with straw half a yard thick, closely pressed down ; and cover at nights with a foot thick of soft hay, and a covering over it of asphalte. By this plan, and giving as much dry air as possible, I avoid the usual objection of injury, by damping off and weakening the plants bya high temperature. My plants bloom in vast profusion from the end of November to April. SUMMER ROSES: THEIR CULTIVATION IN POTS. For this purpose, it is observed, in Rivers’s Rose Catalogue, the best double varieties alone ought to be selected, and that the plants should be worked on stems not more than four inches high. Plants having roots that are fibrous and compact are to be preferred, because they admit of being placed in the centre of the pots. They should be potted late in October, or early in November, in 24-sized or 8-inch pots, in a compost of loam and rotten manure, or loam and leaf.mould and manure, in equal quantities ; if to a bushel of this compost half a peck of pounded charcoal is added, it will be improved. After potting, they should be placed on slates, and then plunged in sawdust or old tan, so that the surface of the mould in the pots is covered about two inches in depth with the materials used for plunging. A sunny ex- posed situation is better than under a wall, for when placed near a wall the branches always incline from it, so that the plant, in lieu of being round and compact, as it ought to be, becomes one-sided. In February 62 LILY OF THE VALLEY.—GRASS LAWNS. following they may be pruned in closely, 7. e., to within two or three buds of the base of each shoot, and remain plunged during the summer, Additional vigour may be given by removing the sawdust or tan from the surface of the pots in March, and substituting rotten manure. During the summer all suckers must be carefully removed, and in June, July, and August all luxuriant shoots shortened, by pinching off their ends, and superfluous shoots nipped in the bud; so that each plant is made to form a neat compact bush, not too much crowded with shoots. If this is properly attended to, they will scarcely require pruning the following spring, but only a few of the shoots thinned out, i. e., entirely removed. These plants will require abundance of water in dry hot weather in summer, and once a-week in June and July they should be watered with guano water; one pound to twelve gallons of water will be of sufficient strength. If not placed on slates, the pots must be removed once a fortnight, to prevent the roots entering the soil underneath the pots, which will give them much additional vigour: but the check they receive when removed is very injurious ; this must, therefore, be carefully guarded against. ‘The above treatment is also applicable to Moss and Provence Roses on their own roots, which, when required for forcing, may at once be removed from the plunging-bed, after having remained there one summer, to the forcing-house ; those required for exhibition only may also remain there till near the bloom- ing season, when, if it is wished to retard them, they may be placed under a north wall, if to accelerate, they may be removed to the greenhouse, or to any pit or frame under glass. LILY OF THE VALLEY. Tuts plant does not generally succeed well when grown in pots, and removals for forcing injures it. We have found it to do admirably as follows :—We had three small beds of the Lily of the Valley, of the size of a one light frame, and over one bed the frame was placed early in October. About a month afterwards a tolerable sized trench was made all round the frame, and it was filled up with warm fermenting stable manure and a wood covering, sloping from the frame over the trench similar to one side of a house roof, which kept the dung from being affected by heavy rains, &c., or cold atmosphere. This lining requires forking over, or renewing once or more. With the usual at- tention of air, water, and protection, the plants succeeded admirably. One bed only forced each year. GRASS LAWNS. THosE who are desirous to obtain a nice clean lawn, without weeds, would find the most effectual remedy to destroy them, and Plantains in particular, is, when the sun shines bright and strong to put a pinch of salt on the heart of the plants; they shrivel in a few hours; but if applied in a moist day it fails. COLOURS IN FLOWERS. 63 TRANSPLANTING SHRUBS. A CORRESPONDENT in the Gardeners’ Chronicle observes: “ After all that has been said about spring planting of evergreens, or even mid- winter, I am persuaded that no part of the year can equal the autumn ; say from the middle of October until the end of November. I have moved hundreds of large evergreens, at all periods within the last twenty years, and IJ have invariably realised the greatest amount of success by autumn planting. Much, however, depends on the character of the soil, as well as on the mode in which the operation is conducted. Some persons advocate ‘ puddle planting ;? but on what principles I never could discover. Why not ‘puddle potting?’ Certainly it is better to puddle a large specimen than to totally neglect it in regard to moisture. My practice is this :—to open a hole much larger than the ball of earth or volume of roots about to be introduced, taking care not to make the hole any deeper in general than the surface-soil extends; then to satu- rate the subsoil with water, and next to pulverize the soil thoroughly intended for filling in round the roots. After this is completed, I invariably rake together a body of tree-leaves (if at hand), weeds, sticks, &e., and throw three or four inches (sometimes a foot), in the bottom of the hole, to set the ball or roots on, putting little or no soil beneath the tree. The tree being carefully removed—not a fibre suffered to dry, if possible, during the operation—is placed on the leaves, and the process of filling up commences. I invariably mix decayed vegetable matter with the common soil; this is sometimes obtained on the spot by raking or paring the surface of the ground contiguous. The soil being in a mellow state, is slightly trod as the filling proceeds ; and when filled level with the ball, or rather above it, the whole receives a thorough watering, using several cans of water at slight intervals. The next business, and a most important affair, is to thoroughly shake the tree, to prevent wind-waving. When this is completed, a thick mulching of half rotten manure or leaves will finish the process. Such trees should have one thorough soaking of water in the early part of April; afterwards they may be safely left to themselves.” COLOURS IN FLOWERS. BY X. ¥. Tue following observations on the cause of the variety and vividness of colours in flowers, may be read with interest. The petals of flowers do not owe their beauty to the colour that paints them; for that, when drawn off, is dull and dead; neither do they owe their brilliant tints to the skin that covers them. ‘Their lovely appearance is derived chiefly from the bubbles of water which compose their pabulum. Receiving the sun’s rays, they are enlivened and brightened by reflection and refraction from those drops of water, and from that spot or point of light being seen in every bubble, and striking to the focus underneath. By these means the whole flower would at times be one blaze of light, had not nature, to soften the same, covered the petal with an upper and an under skin, which cur- 64 ON DRYING SPECIMENS OF FLOWERS, tails their diamond-like rays, and leaves them instead a lightness and beauty unequalled by the most exquisite art of the painter. In order to prove that bubbles of water are the true cause of the beauty which flowers transmit, either in vivid flashes or tender tints, to the human retina, we have only to take the dullest colour that was ever mixed or painted, and filling a small glass bubble with water, let the rays of the sun fall through it on the said colour, it will become the brightest and most beautiful imaginable, and exactly resemble the tint of flowers. The moist petal is so filled with water, that it only excites our astonishment how such a thin gauze-like matter can con- tain such a quantity of liquor, and yet the flower reposes on the hand without wetting it. To show, however, that some of our flowers may owe their beauty to other contrivances besides pabula fitled with water, we may instance a common one which adorns our fields, viz., the ranunculus or butter- cup. The petals of this very pretty wild flower appear to be var- nished, but, on examination, we find that this is owing to a white powder resembling magnesia which lies between the pabulum and the upper skin. ‘To try the effect,” says Mrs. Ibbetson, whose experi- ments on the physiology of plants have placed her in the first rank of natural philosophers, ‘‘ I got a quantity of extremely small glass bubbles containing water blown for me, and I placed them in a petal, in rows; although infinitely larger, yet they appeared to be a petal greatly magnified. I covered them with a piece of gauze, painted so as to resemble a flower, and truly did it imitate the sort of brightness and brillianey which it was intended to represent. ON DRYING SPECIMENS OF FLOWERS. BY G. GREGSON. To admire and produce living specimens of flowers has been a favourite pursuit of mine from childhood, and I have less enjoyed the pleasures arising from collecting, preparing, and preserving dried specimens, which I have done to the extent of above four thousands. And on winters’ cold days and evenings I have hundreds of times had a most delightful treat to look over, aud admire, my lovely treasures. With a view to encourage the pleasing pursuit in others, I herewith transmit the particulars of my method of procedure for insertion in the CABINET. I always gather my specimens when dry, whether in doors or out. The latter, when the sun has exhaled the dew from them, and when the flowers are in as perfect astate of full bloom as possible. I provide a suitable portion of flannel, of the finest quality for small specimens, and a somewhat coarser for vigorous ones. I have them cut into a suitable size for the press. I find flannel to be very superior to paper, as has been customary to use; it absorbs the moisture better, and specimens retain their colours much more intense. In placing the specimens upon the flannel, I lay a few sheets of common blot paper upon the press board, then a piece of flannel, over which I place a few sheets of blot paper. Having adjusted the boards I fix them in the press CAMPANULA PYRAMIDALIS, 65 and screw it down to arather gentle pressure for about three days. (I have the press ina dry room.) I then dry the paper, regulate any derangement in form of the specimens, and replace them in the press and give it a tighter pressure. In a few days I again dry the paper and flannel, and by that time most kinds are properly dried ; except the succulent tribe, which require a longer time, and in preparation a less degree of pressure, or the colours will be changed. Before I place them in the Herbarium, I take a camel-hair brush and wash them wholly over both sides with a solution of one pint of spirits of wine, and two drachms of corrosive sublimate, to which I add a small piece of bruised camphor. This preserves them from injury by the moth, &e. After they are dried [ secure them in their assigned places with gum-water and strips of the edges of postage stamp sheets. CAMPANULA PYRAMIDALIS. AT a meeting of the Croydon Gardeners’ Society, Mr. Clarke con- tributed some remarks upon the cultivation of the Chimney Campanula (Campanula Pyramidalis), which he considered to have been much neglected, from the frequent introduction of new plants, in many instances much inferior to old ones of the same family; and asa means of aiding its re-admission to the green-house, said: ‘‘ My method of growing this plant is, to sow the seed in March on a slight hot-bed ; when they have made two or three leaves, pot them off into three-inch pots, and place them in a close frame till they have made growth, then harden them off by degrees, and they will have filled their pots by May. Prepare a good rich piece of ground in an airy situation, and plant them out 18 inches apart; let them remain till the following March, by which time they will have made good growth ; take them up with good balls of earth adhering to them, and pot them in 15-inch pots, using the following compost :—equal parts of well decomposed _horse- dung, turfy loam, and leaf-mould, with a portion of silver sand, and good drainage. Place them in a frame or pit, which keep closed until they have made growth, shortly after which they will open their flower stems; as they advance keep them as close to the glass as possible, admitting a large portion of air through the day. As the spring advances, frequently syringe them, closing the pit with a humid atmo- sphere in the afternoon. When their flower stems have attained too great a height for the pit or frame, remove them to the green-house or conservatory, placing them where they can receive a large portion of air. By giving this old plant the treatment here detailed, it will pro- duce flower stems measuring from 10 to 12 feet high. I am not acquainted with any plant more easy of being cultivated to perfection, or more useful for halls, verandahs, &c., when thus cultivated, as from the substance of its flowers it is capable of keeping in flower much longer, and can endure many situations which the majority of flowers cannot. I have seen it trained to fan-shaped frames, and in the pleasant summer months, when fire is not required, placed in front of the grate, and hence, as I presume, its name, Chimney Campanula.”—Mr. Agate said he could not flower the plant to his satisfaction until he turned it Vol. xv. No. 3.—N.S, si 66 WINTER PROTECTION OF PLANTS. out of the pot intosome good soil for a few months early in the season. With one in particular he had been highly successful : when it showed blooming stems he took it up and put it in a large pot; it produced eleven fine spikes of flowers, and a more splendid plant could not be desired. WINTER PROTECTION OF PLANTS. BY P. Tue enthusiastic amateur will probably find a difficulty in stowing away the numerous plants which have been raised from seeds or cut- tings since the spring, and IJ will therefore describe to him some cheap and efficient pits, which I observed in a country nursery a few weeks ago. The walls are built of peat turf nicely cut from a common, much in the same manner as those which are used for burning, but of course considerably larger. In building, the walls should be made to slope outwards a little, and should be well filled in behind with solid earth ; the inside can then be cut neatly with a sharp instrument, and a most excellent wall will thus be formed. If any of the readers of the CaBrnet have ever visited the Military College at Sandhurst, they will have observed the same thing done on a large scale, in the formation of the various batteries for exercising the students. After the walls have been built, all that is necessary is, to drive down some strong wooden posts along the back and front, on which the sill and rafters rest, as well as upon the turf wall. If at any time the turf sinks, these support the sill and the rafters, and by pushing in a little turf below the former, the vacancy will be filled up. Such pits will last for many years, and, when covered with good sashes, are dry, and much warmer than even those which are built of brick and mortar; and, the ground at the back and front being nearly level with the glass, the whole are very easily covered with dry straw or litter, when such protection is required in winter. The amateur who lives on the confines of a heath country will therefore see, that he has the means of erecting, at a trifling expense, a place in which he will be enabled to keep such things as Pentstemons, Calceolarias, Verbenas, and even, in mild winters, Pelargoniums, for turning out into the flower-beds in summer. Where litter would be objectionable, a small hot-water apparatus could be introduced, having a two-inch pipe carried along the front, and returned again into the boiler. Of course this would add considerably to the expense ; but then all kinds of greenhouse plants could be kept in the greatest safety. TO DESTROY THE WIRE-WORM. BY A. Z. In a recent Number a correspondent desired to know the most efficient means of getting rid of wire-worms, and stated that he read somewhere that the sowing of Mustard-seed effected the object completely. The Article to which he alludes is, probably, to be found in “ Loudon’s THE DEADORE CEDAR. 67 Gardeners’ Magazine.” The quotation is as follows :—‘TI have de- monstrated to my own satisfaction that the wire-worm may be pre- vented by sowing the ground previously with white Mustard-seed. On a field of 50 acres of fallow, half an acre was sown with white Mustard-seed. The field was much subject to wire-worm, and when it was laid down with Wheat after fallow, it suffered much, excepting the half acre that had been under white Mustard. In another field of 45 acres, 3 acres were laid down with white Mustard-seed, with the same beneficial result as regarded the wire-worm, while, at the same time, the crop of Wheat was better in that portion. Encouraged by this success, I next year sowed a whole field of 42 acres, which had never repaid me for 19 years, owing to the ravages of the wire-worm, and not one of which could be found the following year. My crop was superior to any I had grown for 21 years.”? The above Article was written by Mr. Talland, Little Houghton, Northamptonshire, and was inserted in the “ Country Times,’ September, 1831, from which it was copied into ‘‘ Loudon’s Gardeners’ Magazine.” I add another quotation regarding wire-worm :—‘“ At the last meeting of the Ento- mological Society, Mr. Spence described a plan successfully adopted in the west of England for the destruction of wire-worms, which had greatly infested the Turnip-fields. _He employed boys for picking them up, at the rate of 14d. per 100: in the course of a few days they obtained upwards of 11,000, the expense of clearing one acre being 1/. 2s. 6d.”? See “ Mark Lane Express” for January 8, 1838, page 7. ‘THE DEADORE CEDAR (Crprus Dropara). RAISING SEEDLINGS. BY A NURSERYMAN. In the spring of 1844 I obtained a portion of seeds of this pretty tree. Learning it was customary to raise the seedlings in a hot-bed frame, &e., but not having one at liberty, I ventured to sow the seed in a south aspected border; about the middle of May, I covered them an inch deep with fine sifted soil. A fortnight after I gave them a little water, using a fine rose, and once a week repeated it. Many of the plants soon appeared, and in succession, for some weeks after. At the end of September I took up all the strongest plants and potted them, placing them in a cool frame for winter protection, and every one has succeeded admirably. I therefore advise out-door raising of the seedlings. TO DESTROY RATS OR MICE. “T was advised,” says a correspondent, “ to cut cork into thin slices and then fry them in fat, butter, or meat gravy; the animals are very fond of them and eat them greedily; placing the pieces for a repast, the pests in a garden soon disappear. Of course the prepared pieces must be secured from cats, dogs, &c., or they may fall a sacrifice too. I was told, that to use brown paper fried in fat, &c., would effect the same purpose as cork. I have not had occasion to try it since obtaining information.” se) eat ei 20h) aM —— en Uy: AG pa M it nt an 7s IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. ~ 4 ‘ ee at? ROCEED without loss of time to complete all neces- P sary alterations in this department, such as removing shrubs, planting edgings, laying turf, &c. Shrubs requiring increase by layers may be done now, ina similar way to the Carnation; some of the tough wooded kinds do well by having the branch twisted at the part where the cut in laying would have been made. All perennial and biennial border plants which it may be desirable to increase should be parted at once. Where they have spread out large, the most ready way is to divide them with a spade into as many pieces as are wanted. Now is the time to decide upon some arrangement of plants for the beds of the flower garden, in order to give plenty of time to prepare a stock of those required. Hardy annuals, to bloom early in the summer, may be sown in sheltered situations. Cover them with finely sifted soil, and press it gently down on the seeds. Fiorists’ Frowers.—At this time Awriculas and Polyanthuses that were top-dressed in proper time, and since received due attention, will have commenced growing. Admit air on all favourable occasions, to prevent them being drawn. Where increase is not particularly required, it will greatly strengthen the bloom by removing all side shoots as they appear. Give every attention, to maintain the plants in vigour. Manure water should be given once a-week, taking care it is not poured upon the foliage. Sheep’s-dung, put into a tub, and soft water poured upon it, in quantity so as it forms a strong liquid, is very serviceable. The dung must be collected for a few weeks before using. Old cow-dung will also answer the same purpose. If any ap- pear too forward in showing bloom, it is best to leave them to take their chance of being in condition when wanted. Checking is almost sure to induce small and uneven flowers. Anemonies and Ranunculuses must be finished planting immediately. If no bed has been prepared for them, it may be made by taking out. the soil to the depth of fifteen or eighteen inches, and replacing it at the bottom, with a layer three or four inches thick of cow-dung, and filling up with soil composed of decayed turfs taken from a loamy pas- ture. The mode of planting is in drills, and to press the tubers down, so that they rest firmly, drawing the soil over them to the depth of two inches. The arrangement of the varieties is purely a point of taste; some, when they are for exhibition, keep each sort to itself, in rows, across the bed. The only advantage of this is that the best blooms are more easily selected. Such as were planted in the autumn will now be making their appearance above ground. It is very necessary to keep the soil well round the crown of the plant; when this is neglected the bloom suffers. Should the weather be severe, FLORAL OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH. 69° protection will still be requisite. Zips require continued attention, as directed last month. . Any that happen to be affected with canker will appear sickly ; the roots should be examined, and the damaged part cut clean out. If left exposed to sun and air, the parts will soon dry and heal. Avoid frosty air getting to the wound by exposure. If by any casualty they get frozen, then, early in the morn- ing, sprinkle the tops over with cold water, and keep them covered over for an hour or so before they be exposed, as the sun must not be allowed to shine upon them until the frost is all out. Carnations and Picotees may, at the end of the month, receive their final shifting. The pots known as No. 12’s are the size usually employed. In potting, place at the bottom two inches deep of crocks, to give free drainage. Use a compost—which is best if it has been previously prepared and become well incorporated together—of these proportions: two barrows full of fresh yellow loam, three of well-rotted horse-dung, and half a barrowful of river sand, well mixed; plant in it without sifting, but breaking very well with the spade. Place the plants in a sheltered situation out of doors, and let them be carefully looked after. All those not required for potting plant out in rows in a bed, each plant being a foot apart in the rows, and two feet from row to row. Where frost has disturbed the roots of Panseys in beds, they should be pressed into their places, and a top-dressing of rich mould given to them, all over the bed. In forming new beds the plants should be placed six or eight inches apart, and the situation where they can have all the benefit of free air. Plants in pots, under glass, will require shifting into larger sizes, for as this is the period when they begin to grow, they will soon become weak, and bloom out of character, if confined in small pots. If beds of Pinks were not planted in autumn, at the end of the month they may be. In removing the plants, whether out of pots or open ground, be careful to retain all the ball of roots, and as uninjured as possible. For the open bed use a trowel for removing with. When planted, water, to settle the soil around the roots. Hyacinths in beds ought to have protection from sharp frosts, and on fine days the surface soil should be stirred over occasionally. IN TSE FORCING FRAME. Sow seeds of any tender and half-hardy annuals that have been omitted, and introduce them here. Such as have been sown, and are up, should have all possible air given, to prevent their being drawn. In watering, it must not be over the tops, or many of the sorts will be rotted by it. The best method is to flood over the surface of each pot, always using tepid water. Annuals sown in frames—Cockscombs, Balsams, Thunbergias, &c.,—if large enough to pot, should be done in 60-sized pots. Sow seeds of Dahlias, Fuchsias, Petunias, Verbenas, &c., as soon as possible ; cover them lightly with fine sandy soil, and press the sur- face smooth with a piece of flat board. Seeds of most greenhouse plants will do well if sown now. Dahlia roots, brought in last month, will have began to push shoots, which, when about three inches long, should be taken off, cut close under a joint, and struck in sand. Continue to put in euttings of all kinds of plants intended to bed out. Re-pot and forward Amaryllises, Gesnereas, &c., as directed last month. Ipomeas 70 FLORAL OPERATIONS FOR THE MONTH, Echites, and similar plants, may be trimmed in, disrooted where neces- sary, and brought here to excite early growth. IN THE COLD FRAME, GREENHOUSE, &c. Continue to admit all air possible. Re-pot the various inmates as required from time to time, and examine to see that the drainage is free. If any of the soil looks black and wet, and the pot feels heavy, there is something wrong. If any of the pots are too full of roots, the plants should be removed into pots a size larger ; and the soil should be rich, light, and moderately porous. There is a soil which is good for almost every kind of greenhouse plant—loam, with the turf rotted in it, decayed cow-dung, leaf-mould, peat-earth, chopped small or rubbed through a very coarse sieve, and road-sand, equal quantities of each; it will do for everything; but if we had heaths to grow, we should treble the quantity of peat-earth, and not alter the others, so that it would be one of each of the others and three of peat-earth, instead of one all round. In moving a plant from one pot to another take care that the plant be not sunk in the least more in the new pot than it was in the old one, and see that the compost, well mixed up, is made to go down very nicely all round the old ball of earth. Plants shifted in this way should have a little water to settle the earth to the roots. All the shelves of the greenhouse, and all the plants, should be cleared of dead leaves, and the places kept very clean. Calceolarias, Verbenas, Petunias, and other young stock, intended either for decorating the flower garden or to bloom in pots, must, as growth advances, have the shoots stopped, which will cause them to be bushy, Fuchsias require similar attention, forming cuttings of the young shoots, if desired. Camellias exhausted with flowering should now receive a little extra attention. Our practice is to remove them to a cooler situation for three weeks, on the principle of slow breaking, and to give the root a chance of overtaking, in some degree, the expenditure which has taken place in the system. Any pruning necessary is performed at this juncture; no plant can succeed better, after judicious pruning, than the Camellia. IN THE STOVE. ' Successive introductions of plants for early bloom should still be attended to, as directed last month. See to pruning in such creepers as are overgrown, before fresh growth commences. Complete all potting as early as possible. Orchidaceous plants, especially, should be done at once, in order to obtain as early a growth as convenient. Use plenty of charcoal, in lumps, and keep plenty of indestructible material round the outside of the pots, to facilitate the passage of both air and moisture with rapidity. Increase atmospheric moisture in pro- portion to heat and light. Look sharp after insects; the snails, &c., are very fond of the young buds at this period, and soon cause great injury. Orchids recently imported should have a warm and constantly moist atmosphere for a few weeks, until they begin to grow, but no water should be applied to them until that period, and then with mode- ration. They will fill their pseudo-bulbs by atmospheric moisture alone, and all excitement otherwise risks the well-being of the plant. BRIEF NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE. 71 THE RED SPIDER. Tuis pest in gardening is assuredly not so commonly met with now as it was twenty years ago. And why? Not because any recipe has become of general and systematic application, but that a much greater humidity of atmosphere is maintained in our hothouses than in former days. Humidity alone is not however sufficient at all times to keep the spider under ; and I beg to remind the readers of the Casrner that sulphur rightly applied in conjunction with atmospheric moisture, is perfectly efficient to that end. Apply it three times a year on an under pipe, or on the least heated portion of a flue, thick as paint, and worked up with soft soap water to make it adhere for some time. Do this in February, in May, and again in August, and maintain a wholesome amount of atmospheric moisture, not a sudden steam, but a slow, yet permanent supply, and I will engage that the spider will be rendered perfectly harmless. Do not, however, apply it on any surface that is so warm at times as to produce inconvenience to the hand when grasp- ing it: this is a simple but safe rule. THE FOXGLOVE TREE (Pavtonta impPerratis). Tuis is a highly ornamental tree, which has not yet been fully esti- mated in this country. It appears that for the first year or two, when planted in congenial soil, it grows most vigorously, and continues its growth late in theautumn. The shoots, from their extraordinary gross- ness, are not properly ripened, and consequently get killed back to the harder parts in winter. I have plants at this moment with leaves 20 inches across, and shoots of the current year’s growth six feet long. I was informed that when first planted in the Garden of Plants at Paris, it grew away in the same robust manner. This is not, however, now the case, the original tree which first flowered there is 30 feet high, the branches are about 20 feet in diameter, with a clean stem 3 feet in circumferenc. ‘The leaves now upon this tree are about the size of the Catalpa, and the shoot, scarcely exceeding a foot in length, which of course ripen perfectly. This is (October) covered with a complete mass of incipient blossoms, which do not expand until next spring, when the tree exhibits an inconceivable picture of beauty. It is a remarkable fact that this tree only flowers in alternate years, when it ripens an abundance of seed. What an admirable subject this is for shrubberies and general ornamental planting, both as regards its foliage and flowers, and it may well be pointed out as an object deserving the attention of planters. BRIEF NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE. ARAUCARIA IMBRICATA.— W. Baker.—You may see fine specimens of this noble tree in the gardens at Dropmore and Kew. The former one is believed to be the largest in Europe. It is upwards of twenty-three feet high, and the girth of the stem, close to the ground, is near three feet. The largest branches are each more than twelve feet in diameter. The most suitable soil in which you can plant is a rich loam, raised so as to form a mound of about eighteen inches above the surround- 72 -BRIEF NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE, ing surface. Much moisture is injurious, and it will be only during a period of drought that water is required. It is perfectly hardy, no further protection being necessary than securing it firmly to a stout stake until it becomes established, to prevent it being blown over by strong wind. | Puantine A Prece or Grounp.—Riscemara will be much obliged for some hints as to the best appropriation of a plot of ground situated as described. “ Imagine a mansion situated on a hill, with lawn and shrubs sloping down to a navigable, but not very wide, river, on the other side of which lies a verdant meadow of five acres, bounded by a railway line, which line has, on its exterior portion, a new cut for navigation, rendering the five acres, recently purchased, an island. The soil re- sembles peat, and the surface may, at high tides and inundations, be sometimes, but rarely, flooded. The other side of the valley being terminated by a ridge of hills well clothed with'trees, the object is so to embellish the five acres as to form a pleasant foreground to a beautiful view, and to plant out part of the line of railway. The difficulty is to find what trees would answer best. I should like to form an imitation of American scenery, and believing that many of the noble flowering trees of that country grow in swamps, I should be gratified by any hints upon the subject. Would the Tulip tree thrive in such a locality, or the Deciduous Cypress, the Hemlock Spruce, Catalpa, or any of the Pine tribe?” No doubt many of our readers can furnish information as to what trees flourish in America in a soil similar to that our correspondent mentions. It is very likely too that in this country a practical proof as to what will succeed in like circum- stances has been realized. In either or both cases, we shall feel much obliged by the request of the inquirer being complied with as early as convenient. Rosrs.— Annette asks, “ Why the buds of the Hybrid Perpetual Roses, ‘ Newton’ and ‘ Prince Albert,’ will not open well in a border where other Roses of the same kind with Bourbon and Provence flourish extremely well? This summer both Rose trees were covered with buds, but of the first bloom not one of them opened. The second bloom, ‘ Prince Albert’ had a few flowers in perfection, but there were still several buds which withered off.—May I venture to plant China Tea-scented and Noisette Roses against a paling? The paling faces south, and I have had painted canvas put behind it to shelter them from the north. If you think these kinds of Roses will flourish in this situation, will you, or any of your numerous correspondents, give me a list of ten of the best in each class? I have hitherto been afraid to try anything excepting Ayrshire Roses, but I wish to have some that will bloom till the frosts come.” It is probable that there may be some defect in the soil the Newton and Albert Roses are planted in, or in the subsoil. The season being so very dry, the plants might require watering at the roots, more especially so if the subsoil be gravel and the soil but shallow. The following Roses will succeed well in the situation above named, affording the protection described. Noisette.—Boulogne, dark purple, very distinct, double. Cloth of Gold, pure yellow, bright, vigorous. Fellenberg, rich bright crimson. Jaune Desprez, bright fawn, very fragraut. Lamarque a Coeur Rose, white, with fawn centre. Miss Glegg, pale flesh, nearly white, superb. Solfaterre, bright sulphur, superb. Vic- torieuse, pretty blush, large. Luxembourg, bright rosy-purple. Jeanne de Are, very pure white, vigorous. Tea-scented.—Bougere, shining bronze, rose, superb. Devoniensis, creamy sul- phur, rose-tinged. Comte de Paris, large, perfect, pale rose. Eliza Sauvage, pale yellow, orange centre, superb. Josephine Malton, large, shaded white, beautiful. Perfection, apricot colour, very bright. Goubault, bright shaded rose, very fra- grant. Maria de Medicis, bright rose, shaded with fawn. Bride of Abydos, sulphur and white, tinged with rose. Fragrans, bright rosy-crimson, pretty. ScarRLeT VERBENA.—Can you inform me why the Scarlet Verbena does not flower well with me? It seems to go all to rot; it covers the ground, and throws out roots at every joint, but is very shy of flowering, except in a basket or at the edge of the bed where it cannot make root. Do you think if the plant was sur- rounded with some material into which it could not make root that it would flower better? G. L. In a very rich soil the Verbena grows luxuriantly, but, in proportion, the pro- “duction of flowers is less. There is a variety of the scarlet which covers the ground with a close carpet of green, but scarce blooms at all. By your plant blooming more -freely at the side of a basket we conclude it was planted in a soil too rich. Ly 60 carey Td. x Pe iM — eweetostoUitts 3 APRIL, 1847. ILLUSTRATIONS. HE well-known and much-admired genus Lopetra has long formed one of the chief ornaments in the greenhouses and flower gardens of this country. The first species, LZ. Cliffortiana, was introduced upwards of a hundred years ago, since which time there has been an addition of about one new kind each successive year. Some of our modern botanists discovered, a few years back, that several of the species possessed such distinct characteristics as to justify a new arrangement being formed, and which should constitute three genera in future. This being accomplished, the SrrHocampryLos became one of the sections. The name is adopted from strHon, a tube, and kKAMPULUS, bent or curved, as is, more or less, the tube of the corolla. The genus con- tains some very beautiful and showy flowering species, several of which uot only flourish admirably in the greenhouse, but being planted out of doors in spring, bloom beautifully during summer. The two new species we now figure are valuable additions, being dis- tinct and handsome, and well merit cultivation. SIPHOCAMPYLOS CORDATUS—HeEart sHarep. We are not aware of the native country of this comely and beautiful species, but it is probably from Mexico. It proves to be easy of cul- tivation, and forms a distinct and beautiful contrast with the flowers of the other species. It forms a compact bush, blooming for several months. We believe it is cultivated in some collections as S. glabrus culus. SIPHOCAMPYLOS MICROSTOMA—Smatu-mMouTHED. This rich and showy flowering species we saw in bloom in the ad- mirable collection in the Royal Gardens of Kew, where it has flowered Mah freely, beginning early in the season, and continues till autumn ; in fact, like some others of the tribe, it may be induced to bloom nearly Vol. xv. No. 4,—V.S, G 74 NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. the entire year. Mr. Purdie, the collector, sent it to the Royal Gardens from New Grenada. It well deserves to be grown in every collection of ornamental plants. All the kinds are easily cultivated. The most vigorous growers should have a rough compost of rich loam and peat, equal parts ; the others, a more rich loam, and only one-third of peat. Cuttings strike freely in sand. NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. ANEMONE JAPONICA—JAPANESE ANEMONE. Ranunculacee. Polyandria Polygynia. ‘Tas showy species was forwarded by Mr. Fortune, from Shanghae, the Japanese part of China, to the Horticultural Society, and _ it has bloomed in the Garden at Chiswick, in the greenhouse. Dr. Siebold states it inhabits damp woods on the edges of rivulets, on a mountain called Kifune, near the city of Mako, in Japan. It is a perennial plant. The flowers are much like a single-blossomed Dahlia, each flower being about three inches across, of a rich lively-rose colour, having a white centre, surrounded by a yellow circle. It blooms freely, and is very showy. ‘The flower stems rise to about half a yard high. It is now found to flourish in the open ground, and in masses produces a pretty effect. Figured in Pax. Mag. Bot. BRUNFELSIA NITIDA: VAR J AMAICENSIS. Scrophularine. Didynamia Angiospermia. An erect shrub, four feet high, which was sent by Mr. Purdie to the Royal Gardens of Kew, where, in the stove, it bloomed. Each flower is about four inches across, yellow, and has much the appearance of a yellow Enothera. Figured in Bot. Mag., 4287. CLEMATIS TUBULOSA—TUBULAR-FLOWERED. Ranunculaceae. Polyandria Polygynia. It isa native of China, a hardy perennial, of an erect habit; the flower stems rise about two feet high. ‘The flowers are produced numerously in terminal heads, of a rich purple-blue outside the tube, and the four parted revolute divisions of the top are edged with white. It well merits a place in every flower garden. Figured in Pax. Mag. Bot. CoNnVOLVULUS ITALICUS—ITALIAN BINDWEED. Convolvulacee. Pentandria Monogynia. It is a hardy climber, a perennial species, and a native of the South of Europe and North of Africa ; also it grows in vineyards, and deco- rates the hedge-rows in Egypt and Algiers. The flowers are a beau- tiful rose colour. Each blossom is about two inches across. It isa very suitable plant for the rock work, and may be had in the London nurseries. NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS, 75 DIPTERACANTHUS SCANDENS. A new stove climber, exhibited by Mr. Glendenning, of Chiswick, at the Horticultural Society’s Rooms, in Regent-street, March 16. It is a native of Sierra Leone, and possesses shining dark-green coriaceous leaves. ‘The flowers are produced freely, in short racemes at the joints, and bear some resemblance to those of a small white Petunia. It is a pretty addition to our stoves. DEUTZIA STAMINEA—BROAD-STAMENED. « Philadelphacee. Decandria Tetragynia. It isa native of the high mountains of North India, and forms a hardy deciduous shrub in England, which flowers abundantly in the early part of summer. ‘The blossoms are produced numerously in cymes on short lateral shoots along the branches, white, sweet-scented. Each blossom is about half an inch across. It has bloomed in the garden of the Horticultural Society at Chiswick. Figured in Bot. Leg. NEPENTHES RAFFLESIANA—SIR S. RAFFLE’S PITCHER PLANT. Nepenthacee, Diaecia Monadelphia. This most singular and highly beautiful plant is figured in the Bo- tanical Magazine for March, and ithe following interesting account accompanies it :—‘‘ To Dr. Jack is due the discovery of this remarkable species of Nepenthes, in the island of Singapore. It was our privilege, in the first volume of the ‘ Companion to the Botanical Magazine,’ to publish the letters of that distinguished botanist, so early lost to science. He relates the circumstance of finding this pitcher plant in one of his many valued communications, addressed to his family at Aberdeen. Writing from Singapore, June 20, 1819, Dr. Jack says, * My last letter from hence was sent by way of Penang; this goes home vid Bengal. It is impossible to conceive anything more beautiful than the approach to Singapore, through the Archipelago of Islands that lie at the extremities of the Straits of Malacca. Seas of glass wind among innumerable islets, clothed in all the luxuriance of tropical vegetation, and basking in the full brilliancy of a tropical sky. The island of St. John’s, which forms the western point of the Bay of Singapore, would, if fortified, command with cannon the Straits, through which every vessel passes to China and all the eastern settlements. A more convenient site and more formidable position could not possibly: be selected; and it is really astonishing that it should have remained so long unnoticed. It was the capital of the Malays in the twelfth century, but they were obliged to abandon it during the unfortunate wars with the Javan empire of Majapulail, and retire to Malacca ; and when the latter was taken by the Portuguese, they settled at Johore ; and Singapore has, till now, been almost forgotten. I have no doubt it will soon rise to more than its ancient consequence. I have just arrived in time to explore the woods, before they yield to the axe, and lave made many interesting discoveries, particularly of two new and ‘splendid species of pitcher plant (Nepenthys Raffiesiaxna, and N. am- pullaria), far surpassing any yet known in Europe. I have completed two perfect drawings of them, with ample descriptions. sg: S. Rafiles G 76 NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. is anxious that we should give publicity to our researches, in one way or other, and has planned bringing out something at Bencoolen. He proposes sending home these kitchen plants, that such splendid things may appear under all the advantages of elegant execution, by way of attracting attention to the subject of Sumatran botany.’ Many of Dr. Jack’s plants did appear in the ‘ Malayan Miscellany,’ published at Bencoolen ; but no plants of the Nepenthea Rafflesiana ever reached Europe alive, till the Royal Gardens were supplied with a case of them through the kindness of Captain Bethune, R.N., who, on his return from his scientific mission to Borneo, had a Wardian case filled with them ; and so well were the plants established in the case, and so great was the care taken of them overland from India, that they were as healthy on their arrival at Kew in 1845, as the day they were trans- planted from their native glen in Singapore. It was the very year in which Dr. Jack writes, that, as is well known, at the suggestion of his friend and patron, Sir Stamford Raffles, the island of Singapore was purchased by the India Company of the Sultan of Johore. Mr. Craw- ford was its first governor and historian. Since that period it has become asettlement of vast importance to our country ; and being much frequented by our ships, both mercantile and of the navy, it is to be hoped its vegetable productions will soon be familiar tous. Dr. Jack, with the modesty which was a striking feature in his character, gives the credit of the discovery of this plant in the forests of Singapore to Sir Stamford Raffles ; probably in order that the name might be con- sidered more appropriate. Singapore, however, does not appear to be the only station for this plant. Korthals, if’ we read his High Dutch correctly, gives Binteme, off the coast of Sumatra, as another habitat. “Our plants, on their arrival, were soon removed into pots, ac- cording to their sizes, and placed in a pan frequently filled with water, having moist moss covering the earth. With this treatment a fine spike of male flowers was thrown up in the autumn of the same year. The spike is large and handsome, from the rich colour of the copious perianths, and the numerous yellow heads. The pitchers, or ascidia, are not only remarkable in their shape, and from their different form in different parts of the plants, but for the richness of the colour and spots, and the elongated mouth with the curiously striated margin: the strie terminate internally in teeth, and give a beautifully pectinated appearance to the inner edge. ‘“‘ The tendrils of the upper leaves are twisted into one or two spires at the middle, and terminate in long ascending funnel-shaped urns, flattened anteriorly, but not winged, and gracefully turned at the mouth like an antique vase or urn. Both have the inverted margin beauti- fully and delicately striated and variegated with parallel stripes of purple, crimson, and yellow. ‘The opereula, or lids, are incumbent, membranaceous, ovate, marked with two principal longitudinal nerves, and cuspidate behind the hinge. The racemes of flowers are at first terminal ; but the stem begins, after a time, to shoot beyond them, and they become lateral, and are always opposite to a leaf, which differs from the others in being sessile, and its cirrhus never bearing an urn at its extremity.” NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS, V7 PENTSTEMON MINIATUS— V ERMILION-COLOURED. Schrophulariacea. Didynamia Angiospermia. Obtained from the north of Mexico. It is a hardy, half-shrubby perennial, requiring similar treatment to P. gentianoides. ‘The flowers are of a rich brilliant vermilion colour, each blossom about an inch and a half long. It is in the Horticultural Society’s Garden at Chiswick. Figured in Bot. Reg. PrimMvuLa Munrori—Carrain Munnro’s PRIMROSE. Primulacee. Pentandria Monogynia. Seeds of this pretty Primrose were collected on the mountains of the north of India, and sent to the Horticultural Society by Captain Munro, where it has bloomed. ‘The flower stem rises about ten inches high. bearing a head of five to seven flowers, white, with a faint yellow eye, Each blossom is about an inchacross. The plant is hardy and a peren- nial, Figured in Bot. Reg. PHARBITIS CATHARTICA—PURGING PHARBITIS. Convolvulacee. Pentandria Monogynia. It is a native of St. Domingo and Mexico. It is, apparently, a twining annual branching plant, flowering freely. The flowers vary in colour from a rich violet-blue to a deep reddish-purple. Each blos- som about two inches across the mouth. It is in the collections ot Sion Gardens and the Royal Gardens of Kew. RAPHISTEMMA PULCHELLUM—THE PRETTY. Asclepidacea. Pentandria Digynia. Tt isa native of Hindoostan, and is a fine climbing shrub for the stove or conservatory ; very similar in its character to Stephanotus floribun- dus, but not so stiff in its habit. It blooms very freely in large corym- bous pendant heads. The flowers are white at first, afterwards changing to a delicate cream colour, each of the five parted portions having a red streak up the centre. A separate blossom is campanulate, about two inches across, and fragrant. It well merits cultivation. Figured in Pax. Mug. Bot. RvUELLIA MACROPHYLLA— LARGE-LEAVED. Acanthacee, Didynamia Angiospermia. It is a stove plant of considerable beauty, the flowers are produced in branching panicles, numerously, of a fine rich scarlet colour. A sepa- - rate blossom is near three inches long. It blooms all the summer season, and small as well as large plants flower very freely. It is well worth culture in the stove, conservatory, or warm green-house. Figured in Pax. Mag. Bot. ScUTELLARIA CORDIFOLIA—HEART-LEAVED SKULL-CAP. Labiate. Didynamia Gymnospermia. A native of Mexico, and blooms profusely in a warm green-house, or stove, at the latter part of summer, from August to November. The 78 ON CULTIVATING IXIAS, SPARAXIS, GLADIOLUS, ETC. stem is erect, branched, producing long, terminal, many-flowered ramose racemes of fine orange-scarlet blossoms. Each flower is about an inch long. It is a desirable plant, and very ornamental. It bloomed beau- tifully at the Royal Gardens of Kew. IXIAS, SPARAXIS, GLADIOLUS, &c. REMARKS ON THEIR CULTIVATION. BY AN ARDENT CULTIVATOR. For many years the entire class of flowers, of which the above named form a part, have possessed very considerable charms for me. I have, therefore, grown them in Devonshire with very great success, by the following process of culture. It being the result of my own experience, I forward it for insertion in the FLorrcuLTuRAL CABINET, In my own neighbourhood beds of Sparaxis grandiflora, and others, also of Ixias, are ofien seen; but the flowers, being so delicate, are liable to so many casualties, that they are generally injured, and their beauty defaced by exposure. In order to avoid such disappointments, I cultivate my stock in pots, equally as luxuriant and profuse in flowers; at the same time I have protection for the blossoms, and when they are arranged upon the stage in the greenhouse, pit, or frame, more fully display the delicate brilliancy, beauty, and loveliness of their flowers of orange, white, velvet, pink, and other variations in colour, and very much superior to the open air culture. The warmth and protec- tion afforded tend to a full expansion of the flowers, and that, too, during a longer daily period. About the middle of October I examine my bulbs, and take off any offsets, and pot them in a compost formed of turfy loam, equal to two-thirds; the other part consisted of peat and silver sand, the whole well mixed together. I had a free drainage of broken pot, over which I laid some smallish bits of old dried cow manure, upon which the compost was placed, &c. This very much tends to the vigour of the plant. Having a moderate hot-bed at work, I placed a foot deep of dry old tan, and plunged the pots in it, taking care that the heat was just warm to the pots. I admitted abundance of air by day, but closed the glass during night. I gave no water to the bulbs till they had pushed roots and the foliage began to appear, and even then in frosty weather gave it but slightly, only to preserve them from draught. When severe weather began, I had the frame banked well round with warm dung, half a yard thick, and the glass:covered six inches deep with dry hay, over which was laid a piece of asphalte. With this management I usually had a fine display by the end of April, and just before expanding their blossoms I had them placed in the greenhouse. In order to prolong the blooming season, I usually potted a second lot of bulbs at the end of November, and such being treated in all respects as the first potting, bloomed for several weeks after the first had ceased. When the blooming was over I continued to water the bulbs, in order that they might be duly perfected for the following season.. I had the pots placed in the frame, giving air freely, and as the leaves begun to change, gradually allowed them to become THE SAP OF PLANTS. 79 dry, and the bulbs became fully ripened. In October I commenced potting, &e., as before. It is very essential to get the bulbs well ripened, A collection of Ixias, Sparaxis, Tritonias, Babianias, and all others of what are termed Cape Tridea, ought to be grown wherever there be facilities for it. They form a most beautiful display, are easily grown with little trouble, and may be procured at a trifling expense. THE SAP OF PLANTS. BY SENEX, Havine noticed inquiries in the CABINET relative to the nature and movements of the sap of plants, and no specific replies having been given, I have extracted the following from Dr. Lindley’s ‘ Introduc- tion to Botany,”’* which will fully elucidate the subject, and I shall be glad to observe its appearance in an early number, as it will contri- bute useful hints to cultivators of plants, that may be applied at the early stage of spring growth. “Or THE Sap,—For the sustenance of plants a fluid is neces- sary, which is absorbed by the roots from the earth, then sent upwards into the stem, afterwards impelled into the leaves, whence it descends through the liber, transferring itself to the inmost parts of the wood. This fluid, which constitutes the blood of plants, is called the sap. When first introduced into the system, and even when altered in some degree by having dissolved the various substances it encounters in its passage, it is true sap ; afterwards, when its nature has been more changed by elaboration in the leaves, it becomes what is called the proper juice. “ Tf the sap be examined in its most simple state, it will be found to consist of water, mucilage, and sugar, As the two last can scarcely have been absorbed directly from the earth, it is inferred that, as soon as the fluids taken up by the roots enter the system, they suffer some chemical decomposition, the result of which is the production of muci- lage and sugar. In addition to the supply of sap which is obtained by the roots, a certain quantity is, no doubt, also absorbed from the atmo- sphere by the leaves, as is evident from succulent plants, which will continue to grow and acquire weight long after their roots are severed from the earth. This absorption on the part of the leaves chiefly takes place during the night, or in cloudy weather ; while perspiration, on the other hand, goes on in the day-time in bright weather. “With regard to the chemical nature and changes of the sap, 1 cannot do better than give the statement of Link, with some necessary alterations. ‘The food of plants must be composed of oxygen, hydro- gen, carbon, and azote. Water consisting of oxygen and hydrogen alone is not sufficient. Many experiments, indeed, have been instituted to prove that pure water is a sufficient food, especially by Van Helmont, Eller, Bonnet, Du Hamel, and others ; but it is probable, as Walerius * This work we recommend to the attention of all gardeners and botanists.— Conpucror, 80 THE SAP OF PLANTS. has inferred, that the water out “of which plants are formed already contains the necessary chemical principles. To this it is objected that plants grown in water alone never arrive at perfection, or mature their seeds. But this is not strictly true; they do perfect their seeds: but it is not surprising that crude water should be insufficient for purposes which are fully answered by water properly mixed and tempered.’ “That the extractive matter contained in earth was the real food of plants was long ago stated by Woodward and Kylbel; and most phy- siologists have adopted this opinion. But it has been estimated that a plant, when dried, does not derive more than a twentieth part of its weight from extractive matter and carbonic acid dissolved in water. Now, supposing this calculation to be not far from the truth, it serves to show that extractive matter and carbonic acid are not alone sufficient for the nutriment of plants. *€ Nevertheless, if neither extractive matter nor carbonic acid can be considered to constitute exclusively the food of plants, it is at least quite certain that they not only cannot exist without the latter, but that it forms by far the greater part of their food. It is well known that roots cannot perform their functions unless within the reach of the atmo- sphere. This arises from the necessity for their feeding upon carbonic acid, which, after having been formed by the oxygen of the atmosphere combining with the carbon in the soil, is then received into the system of the plant, to be impelled upwards, dissolved in the sap till it reaches the leaves, where it is decomposed by light, the oxygen liberated, and the carbon fixed. It has also been ascertained that, feed plants as you will, they will neither grow nor live, whether you offer them oxygen, hydrogen, azote, or any other gaseous or fluid principle, unless carbonic acid be present. “The course which is taken by the sap, after entering a plant, is the next subject of consideration. The opinion of the old botanists was, that it ascended from the roots between the bark and the wood; but this has been long disproved by modern investigators, and especially by the experiments of Mr. Knight. If a trunk be cut through in the spring, at the time the sap is rising, this fluid will be found to exude, more or less, from all parts of the surface of the section, except the hardest heart-wood, but most copiously from the alburnum. Ifa branch be cut through at the same season, it will be found that, while the lower face of the wound bleeds copiously, scarcely any fluid exudes from the upper face; from which and other facts it has been fully ascertained that the sap rises through the wood, and chiefly through the alburnum. Observations of the same nature have also proved that the sap descends through the liber. But the sap is also diffused laterally through the cellular tissue, and this with great rapidity, as will be apparent upon placing a branch in a coloured infusion, which will ascend and descend in the manner just stated, and will also disperse itself laterally in all directions round the principal channels of its upward and downward route. ‘“* With regard to the vessels through which this universal diffusion of the sap takes place, it has already been stated that its upward course is always through the woody fibre, and probably also through the duets, and that it passes downwards through the woody fibre. But there can THE SAP OF PLANTS, 81 be no reasonable doubt that it is also dispersed through the whole system, by means of some permeable quality of the membranes of the cellular tissue, which is invisible to our eyes, even aided by the most powerful glasses. It has also been suggested that the sap finds its way upwards, downwards, and latterly through the intercellular passages, which exist at the points of union of every individual elementary organ. That such a channel of communicating the sap is employed by nature to a certain extent I do not doubt, especially in those plants in which the intercellular passages are large ; but whether this be an universal law, or has only a partial operation, is quite unknown, and is not, perhaps, susceptible of absolute proof. ** The accumulation of sap in plants appears to be attended with very beneficial consequences, and to be deserving of the especial attention of gardeners. It is well known how weak and imperfect is the inflo- rescence of the turnip tribe, forced to flower before their fleshy root is formed, and how vigorous it is after that reservoir of accumulated sap is completed. Mr. Knight, in a valuable paper on this subject, remarks that the fruit of melons, which sets upon the plant when very young, uniformly falls off; while, if not allowed to set until the stem is well formed, and much sap accumulated for its support, it swells rapidly and ripens well. In like manner, if a tree is by any circumstance prevented bearing its crop one year, the sap that would have been expended accu- mulates, and powerfully contributes to the abundance and perfection of the fruit of the succeeding year. “The course of the motion of the sap is a subject which has long excited great curiosity, and has given rise to numberless conjectures. It was for a long time believed that there was a sort of circulation of the sap of plants to and from a certain point, analogous to that of the blood of animals; but this was disproved by Hales, and is not now believed. This excellent observer thought that the motion of the sap (the rapidity of which he had found to be greatly influenced by the weather) depended upon the contraction and expansion of the air, which exists in great quantities in the interior of plants. Others have ascribed the motion to capillary attraction, and Du Petit Thouars suggests that it arises thus :—‘ In the spring’, as soon as vegetation commences, the extremities of the branches and buds begin to open. The instant this happens, a certain quantity of sap is attracted out of the circumjacent tissue for the supply of these buds ; the tissue which is thus emptied of its sap is filled constantly by that beneath or about it; this is in its turn replenished by the next; and thus the mass of fluid is set in motion, from the extremities of the branches down to the roots.’ Du Petit Thouars is, therefore, of opinion that the expansion of the leaves, &c., is not the effect of the motion of the sap, but, on the contrary, the cause of it, and that the sap begins to move at the extremities of the branches before it stirs at the roots. That this is really the fact is well known to foresters and all persons accustomed to the felling or exami- nation of timber-trees in the spring.” 82 CHINESE GARDENS. CHINESE GARDENS. Dr. Mayen, inhis Reise wm die Erde, observes these are of a peculiar character, and differ altogether from ours in their arrangements ; while the care bestowed on them by their possessors exceeds anything of which we could have formed an idea. To each branch, often eyen to each leaf of a treeor a shrub, the utmost pains are taken to give the appro- priate turn, and the gardeners may be seen sitting constantly beside the plants, and employed in binding and pruning them, in order to accom- plish the desired form. The production of the greatest variety and contrast of colours is the chief object of the Chinese flower-gardeners, Strangers to refinement and the tender emotions, the Chinese have no taste for the pure and tranquil enjoyment which the perfumes of sweet- scented flowers yield. It is only in gaudy colours, and by a mar- vellous skill in developing singular growths, that the Chinese gardener excels. Long and straight alleys run directly through their gardens, and are bordered by low trees of one and the same species. We visited these gardens (in the vicinity of Canton) in the month of November, and remarked the following objects: close to the entrance were large masses of Chrysanthemums, the blossoms of which had attained an extraordinary size. ‘Then followed whole plots of Citrons and Shad- docks, which were raised in pots and loaded with fruit; and it was remarkable that all these fruits were divided into segments, and thus formed permanent monstrosities, which were further propagated by grafts. It is by such mis-growth that they acquire a finger-shaped appearance, which occurs also occasionally in our conservatories, In China these fruits are cultivated assiduously, not only for the adorn- ment of the gardens, but also for the sake of the well-known Chinese preserved Citron, of which large quantities come to us by commerce. For this purpose they use chiefly the smaller fruits, three or four inches long, which are boiled in refined sugar. The larger fruits of mon- strous shape are of the Shaddock kind, and often from ten to eleven inches long, while the several segments extend singly in all directions, In the gardens these odd-shaped fruits, as well as the sweet Oranges, with which whole plots are planted, have a neat appearance, as they do not allow any trunk to form, but foree them at once to spread into branches, Large borders are to be seen planted with Camellia Ja- ponica, and others with Cockscombs, some with white, others with yellow or red flowers; the yellow-flowered plants had shot partieu- larly high, and they were so arranged that all the plants in a bed were of one and the same colour. We also saw in the gardens a species of Scilla, very like Se. maritima, which showed the same sort of mon- strosity as the Cockscomb. We observed Bamboos in pots, the stems of which were two or three feet high, and were wound into a spiral form from below upwards. Among the trees were the Lee-chee, Banana, Averrhoa carambola and various Palms, on the stems of which Epidendrums were trained. The ponds of these gardens, some of which were very large, contain beautiful fish, which are fed by a disgusting but common method among the Chinese, which is said to render them very plump. The stools in the pleasure-houses are, for the most part, of a coarse sort of porcelain, or they are formed of large BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 83 flat stones supported by wooden frames; which by their coolness in summer, must be very agreeable to sit npon, when one is accustomed to them. Single borders are frequently edged with a small-leaved Box-tree; and the long walks are bounded by hedges of Averrhoa, Olea fragrans, and other plants, which were new to us. On the whole, we must allow that the planting in regular masses of the large-flowered Chrysanthemums, with Oranges, Camellias, Kalmias, and tall Cocks- combs, is not altogether devoid of beauty ; but a stranger can hardly reconcile himself to an arrangement which must appear to him so contrary to the rules of good taste. Hydrangeas and Asters seemed at this time to be out of fashion, for we saw very few of them. EFFECT OF LIME ON SOIL. LiME, it may be briefly observed, acts in two ways on soil. It pro- duces a mechanical alteration which is simple and easily understood, and it is the cause of a series of chemical changes which are really obscure, and are as yet susceptible of only partial explanation. 1. It supplies a kind of inorganic food, which appears to be necessary to the healthy growth of all cultivated plants. 2. It neutralises acid sub- stances which are naturally formed in the soil, and decomposes, or renders harmless, other noxious compounds which are not unfrequently within the reach of the roots of plants. 3. It changes the inert vege- table matter in the soil, so as gradually to render it useful to vegetation. 4. It facilitates, or enables other useful compounds, both organic and inorganic, to be produced in the soil, or so promotes the decomposition of existing compounds, as to prepare them more speedily for entering into the circulation of plants. BULBOUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. BY AN OLD CULTIVATOR, Buxsovs plants, from their nature and appearance, associate ill with others; and this, together with many peculiarities in their cultivation, render it necessary to devote a separate structure entirely to them, in order to carry on the necessary operations on which depend their suc- cessful cultivation. The kind of house best adapted for these plants appear to be that of a span roof, provided with benches sufficiently near the glass in the middle and on each side the pathway; that in the middle being appropriated to the largest specimens, the others to con- tain the smaller plants of the collection. The use of artificial heat in the culture of bulbs is one of the most ‘important points: from their nature they require a season of rest, which ought to commence after they have done flowering and fully matured their foliage; it is then that water should gradually be withheld till the leaves are decayed ; it may then be discontinued altogether. ‘The period of rest is uncertain, some plants requiring more than others, but from one to three months according to the habit of the kind, is the most usual time; they are 84 CULTURE OF SCARLET PELARGONIUMS. then to be slowly stipulated till they commence growing freely, after which they cannot be too liberally encouraged. The use of artificial heat I have observed is a very important point ; it should be as gradual as the application of water, and when com- menced, and the plants thriving in it, it must not be withheld till after the flowers are decayed and the foliage mature, excepting, perhaps, the time they are actually in bloom; any decrease of temperature during the growth of the plant would, perhaps, be the cause of the bulb not flowering, and thus create a disappointment which frequently happens from this very cause. The genera which require this artificial heat are principally. the following: Amaryllis, Coburghia, Gloriosa, Chlidanthus, Cyrtanthus, Polianthus, Nerine Brunsvigia, Hemanthus and Ammochaus, as a primary class, requiring the greater degree. As a secondary class, requiring a much less share, 1 may mention,— Ixia, Gladiolus, Babiana, Antholyza, Sparaxia, Oxalis, Cyclamen, and others. I beg to repeat, that both heat and water must be ap- plied by gradually increasing them, and decreasing them in the same manner after flowering. The bulbs of all, of course, while in a state of rest, must be kept in a low temperature. CULTURE OF SCARLET PELARGONIUMS BY A PRACTITIONER, Tris very pleasing to observe, that in every showy class of flowers, where hybrids can readily be obtained, assiduous attention has been given to attempt improvements on the previous kinds, and in the universally admired race of scarlet flowering Pelargoniums some noble varieties have been raised, which produce heads of blossoms more than fourfold the size of the old species. There is, however, a grossness of habit in the plant of some of the new varieties that renders them unsuited for small collections, without some method being employed to check such exuberance and induce a more compact and bushy habit. I have all the new varieties of the scarlet tribe, and with the too robust sorts I adopt the following method, which fully answers my purposes. I raise a number each summer, usually striking them in August ; they are potted off, and in every respect treated as is done to my general stock of other classes of Pelargoniums. When the plants are about eight inches high, I pinch off the leading shoot, which causes the production of laterals: this is generally done about the end of Sep- tember, and the Jaterals push an inch or two long before winter sets in. In February I re-pot into larger pots, keeping the balls entire; and the laterals soon extend, so that on their being four or five inches long, I take off the leaves ; a second race of laterals is procured, and as soon as practicable, I thin them where required, retaining such as will form it to a well-regulated bush. Such plants bloom admirably that season, but if kept a second year, having the shoots cut in so short as only to have two or three buds retained.on each, and they again stopped on becoming a few inches long, every desired object with them, as very limited growing plants, will be obtained. CULTURE OF MARTYNIA FRAGRANS. 85 Cuttings raised in the early part of the year, and planted out in open oeds, of these robust kinds, bloom very sparingly, I find, however, that the two or three years’ old plants do admirably: their stems and branches having assumed a woody habit produce abundauce of the largest flowers. I would always recommend plants of the above age, for planting out especially, and the situation to be full sun. CULTURE OF HYDRANGEA HORTENSIS, BY AN AMATEUR. Tuts plant is almost an universal favourite, and I think deserves a place in every flower-garden for summer and autumn decoration, as well as in the greenhouse and conservatory for ornament, when the general stock of greenhouse plants are out of doors. I am aware it is not so generally grown as it can be ; I therefore give a few particulars how I have grown it with heads of bloom a foot in diameter. arly in August I take off cuttings, strike them in a hot-bed frame; when rooted, pot them off singly into small pots; they get well-established plants before winter. I do not pinch off the lead in order to induce laterals and have a bushy plant, but when any side shoots appear I rub them off. About the first week in March I re-pot the plants, into 32 or 24-sized pots, in a rich loamy soil, if I want rose-coloured flowers, and into a pure yellow loam and sandy peat, when I want blue flowers ; I put no manure into this class. By this attention to potting, having a liberal drainage, giving a free supply of soft water when growing, and a warm greenhouse to forward them in; taking away laterals, I have one head to each of the extraordinary size named. By raising a fresh supply every year, I obtain young and vigorous plants. The process is short and amply repays for the attention. CULTURE OF MARTYNIA FRAGRANS, BY AN AMATEUR LONDON FLORIST. Tuts fine flowering, noble annual plant was introduced into this country from Mexico, in 1839, as one of the handsomest annuals that had been sent. Although it has been so long in the country it is rarely cultivated. Very few seeds are perfected, it is said, and in consequence are dear; also plants are raised with difficulty. By the following method I have succeeded quite satisfactorily. I sow the seeds at the end of January in sandy peat soil, sprinkling at the top a quarter of an inch of white sand. Having soaked the seeds for about half an hour, I carefully peel off the outer skins, place them firmly in the sand, and then cover them about a quarter of an inch with the sandy peat soil, pressing it somewhat firmly upon them. I cover them over with a small glass, and place the pot in my forcing pit, or in a hot-bed frame when I have one at work at that time. ‘The pot is put in a saucer having constantly a supply of water therein, and invariably the plants are readily raised. I retain the pot in the same 86 BOUVARDIAS.—MIGNONETTE, place, and when the plants are nearly large enough to pot off, I have the bell-glass raised up a little in order to inure them to full exposure. I never pour water over the surface of ,the soil whilst they are in the seed-pot, as certain destruction would be the result. In potting, care is taken to have all the small roots, and if a portion of the soil with each plant, the better. I use sand, peat, and loam, equal parts, and have a liberal drainage. I keep the plants in the hot- bed frame, or in my forcing peat, heated on the tank system, and con- sequently have a moist atmosphere, The plants are re-potted as the roots fill the pots, and when (in the hot-bed) they have attained a size requiring removal elsewhere, I place them in my pit, or plant stove ; and when they become vigorous I have them placed in my greenhouse, which has a span roof, and there they bloom beautifully, and become charming ornament, forming compact bushes, not loose and robust, but neat. The Gloxinia-like flowers, produced in erect panicled racemes, of a deep purplish-red, with a yellow throat, are highly fragrant, perfuming the air to some distance with the sweetness of violets. It is every way worthy of cultivation. BOUVARDIAS. Turse handsome flower-garden plants may be rapidly increased by taking the principal, in February, and cutting them into lengths of about two inches; they should then be planted around the sides of a sufficient number of pots and be plunged in a hot-bed. When they have sprouted, they may be potted singly into small pots: and being encouraged to grow in a warm house or frame, will make strong plants by May, when they should be hardened, and planted out into beds of peat soil. ‘They make very handsome beds in sheltered situations. MIGNONETTE. ITS CULTURE FOR WINTER BLOOM. BY A LONDON AMATEUR GARDENER. I pEeEM it a luxury to have this universally admired fragrant flower, in profusion during the winter months, aud this I have enjoyed for the last four winters. The following mode of treatment was given me by a London nurseryman ; and by pursuing it, I have grown and flowered the plants vigorously. My friend stated, “ After four years’ sowing, without the least failure, I consider my system established, and by it, without the least variation, Mignonette in flower by Christmas, and as strong as border Mignonette. On the 20th of August I sowed one hundred pots of thirty-twos, filled with the following compost: half sandy loam, the other half made up with leaf-mould and road sand, not sifted, but very dry when used, and pressed into the pots to the brim. When the seeds are sown, a little of the compost is sifted over them; the pots are then put into a pit or frame, and set very near the glass. -'The lights are EPIPHYLLUM TRUNCATUM. 87 kept off at all times, except during rainy weather, when they are always put on, as above all things a drop of rain must never fall upon the pots, for several reasons. ‘The first of these is, because rain is often very heavy, and washes the seeds out of the pots. Secondly, the rain is often too little and only moistens the surface. And, thirdly, after the Ist of October, rain is too cold. I water the plants with a very fine rose, and always twice over, but never until they are on the point of flagging. After the Ist of October I either warm the water or use it out of the stove. Iremove the Mignonette to the front of the green- house about the Ist of November, for fear of damps. If a succession is wanted, I cut down as many as may be necessary about the middle of December, and these make a better blooming and thicker pot of Mig- nonette than a second sowing. I leave only six or seven plants in each pot. I do not vary in any way from the above now, excepting it is kept in pits all the winter, instead of the front of an airy greenhouse, and I have at this time (December 10th) about one thousand pots, and I do not hesitate to state that better Mignonette is not in the neigh- bourhood of London, which will be in full flower by February and March.” EPIPHYLLUM TRUNCATUM. To propagate the Epiphyllum truncatum (says a correspondent of the Journal of the Horticultural Society) prepare young healthy stocks of Cereus speciosissimus, and engraft them with the above in March, from one to two feet above the surface of the pots. Grow them in the stove till they are sufficiently large for flowering, which should be in about eighteen months from the time they are grafted. In the autumn of their second summer’s growth remove them from the stove to a cool airy part of the greenhouse, or, if the weather is fine, place them out on a south border out of doors ; and, as winter advances, diminish the quan- tity of water till they become quite dry. They remain in the green- house at rest till they are required for forcing. Those required to flower first are removed back to the stove early in spring. As soon as they have matured the first growth, place them in any exposed part of the garden. This change causes them to set flower-buds at the point of every shoot. As soon as the flower-buds are well established, place the plants in a warm shady part of the greenhouse, where they will flower profusely by the early part of October. By removing the plants successively from their winter quarters to the forcing-house, and treating them as above mentioned, a succession of fine plants can be kept in bloom from October to March. To those who esteem a collection of winter flowers, nothing can be more desirable than this Epiphyllum truncatum, E. violaceum, and E. Russellianum, grown in the same manner. 88 CHOICE VARIETIES OF FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. CHOICE VARIETIES OF FLORISTS’ FLOWERS, RANUNCULUSES. BY OBSERVER:s . Ir is an oft-repeated inquiry of amateurs, in our floral periodicals, which are the best twenty-four or thirty-six varieties of a certain favourite flower? and though the replies of experienced cultivators are at all times valuable, yet a better, because a more public and impartia. jest of merit, is to be found in the reports of the winning flowers at any of our great horticultural and floral exhibitions. As this is the season for planting Ranunculuses, it may be useful to your readers to inform them that the following twenty-four sorts obtained the large silver medal at the Chiswick show, held June 13, 1846. The stand was from Messrs. Tyso, of Wallingford. Alexis (Tyso’s), yellow ground, brown spot, distinct and fine. Attractor (Tyso’s), white ground, large, heavy purple edging. Burns (Waterston’s), white ground, light purple edging. Charlotte (Bartlett’s), white, with delicate rosy mottling, fine form. Champion (Tyso’s), white ground, purple edging, large flower. Creon (Tyso’s), pure lemon ground, with dark coffee edging. Delectus (Tyso’s), rich yellow, with delicate red margin. Flaminius (‘Tyso’s), fine yellow, with distinct bright spot. Gozan (Tyso’s), buff ground, scarlet edging. Glenelg (‘Tyso’s), clear yellow ground, coftee spot. Lydia (Tyso’s), yellow ground, heavily mottled with scarlet, extra fine. Lelex (Tyso’s), yellow ground, good spot. Marquis of Hereford (raiser unknown), rich crimson. Pasca (Tyso’s), white ground, rosy mottling. Pavia (‘Tyso’s), cream ground, purple spot. Poliander (Tyso’s), yellow ground, distinct spot. Queen Victoria (Kilgour’s), white, finely edged with purple, large. Sobraon (Tyso’s), new dark crimson. Serena (unknown), cream, carmine spot. Sophia (unknown), cream ground, rosy edging. Sabina (Costar’s), yellow, fine full flowers. Speculator (Costar’s), cream ground, with scarlet mottling. Tippoo Saib (Costar’s), rich dark self. Victor (‘Tyso’s), fine dark plum colour. COBEA SCANDENS. BY G. L., PORTSMOUTH. To any of your readers who may wish for a quick growing creeper I can strongly recommend the Cobcea Scandens; it has covered a veranda 40 feet long the second year of its growth, in fact it grew so luxuriantly that I was obliged to cut away much of it; it bloomed beautifully the whole autumn, and has also fruited and ripened seeds. It stands the winter, too, very well here. CROWNS OF FLOWERS.—XKOOT GRAFTING, 89 CROWNS OF FLOWERS. In distributing rewards, and in conferring honours, nature is most commonly appealed to. The poets were crowned with bays, the victor with laurel. In Salency, a small village in Picardy, there still re- mains an interesting and a highly useful and moral custom ; it is called “The Festival of the Rose.” On a certain day of every year the young women of the village assemble, and after a solemn trial before competent judges, the one who has conducted herself most discreetly, and gives the most affecting proofs of the general innocence and sim- plicity of her character, is decorated with a crown, which thenceforward becomes an object of pride to all her family. ‘This crown is a hat garlanded or wreathed with roses. It frequently constitutes the whole wealth of the wearer, but the instances are far from unfrequent in which it has been esteemed the most honourable recommendation to a wealthy suitor. This custom was instituted by St. Medard, in the fifteenth century. ROOT GRAFTING. Tuts operation (says a correspondent of the Gardeners’ Chronicle) is performed in two ways, either by grafting on the already established roots of young plants or on pieces taken from the roots of older ones ; but much depends upon circumstances and. the kinds of plants to be operated upon as to which is the most suitable plan. The former is the easiest method for obtaining strong plants, and is best suited for Conifers and such-like plants, in which the stem or trunk is an object. In grafting upon already established roots of a young plant, first clear the soil away from the collar or neck of the plant intended for the stock, and cut the head off as much below the surface of the soil as possible, but at the same time observing that a sufficient length of the neck or collar must be left to receive the graft. ‘The graft should be cut wedge-shaped, and inserted in the slit or crown-graft method, tied tightly with a soft worsted thread, and afterwards covered with the soil, leaving only a portion of the graft exposed to light and air. It will greatly increase the chances of success if the worked plants can be kept close, and in a rather moist atmosphere for a few days, until they commence growing, but much depends upon the operation being performed at a proper time and season, which, in most cases, is just before a new growth commences. In grafting on pieces of roots taken from an older plant, such pieces should be selected as are of sufficient size to receive the scion, and also such as have some small fibres attached to them. In grafting, the roots may either be at once worked and afterwards potted or planted, or the roots may be potted a short time previous to being worked, and afterwards worked like those of the preceding ones, and then treated according to the nature of the plants to which they belong, whether stove, greenhouse, or hardy; but even plants belonging to the latter class are the better for a gentle moist heat for a few days to start them. In this way many kinds of plants may be increased, such as Clematis, Berberis, Roses, Combretums, Moutan Ponies, &e., where the roots Vol. xv, No, 4.—V.S, II 90 THE AMARYLLIS. of the more common kinds are more easily procured, and where suitable accommodation can be afforded ; but under ordinary circumstances the chances are very great against the success of the system, and it should only be resorted to by the amateur in the case of very rare and curious plants. “THE AMARYLLIS: ITS CULTURE FOR WINTER DECORATION. BY MR, FREDERICK THORNE, FAIRFORD PARK. Amownest all plants chosen for decoration during winter, none, in my opinion, are superior to this beautiful tribe, when highly cultivated. Their flowers are mostly richly coloured, large, and particularly orna- mental. The possession, too, of half a hundred bulbs will afford cer- tain succession of bloom from the first week in December until April. The mode of procedure I adopt, and which has afforded gratifying and uniform success for many years, is to raise the plants from seed saved from Amaryllis alba striata, A. glaucescens, and A. Johnsoni. Tam careful not to gather the seed until it is perfectly matured, and then it is sown immediately in shallow pans, in a mixture of fine leaf- mould and sharp sand. Upon the top of each pan I place a piece of elass, on which a thin layer of moss is added. This serves to keep the soil continually moist, a point necessary of attention. ‘The pans are then removed into a temperature of about 70°. As soon as the plants have formed little bulbs they are transplanted into two-inch pots, re- turning them again into the stove to a situation where they can receive a little bottom heat. Subsequently they are re-potted into the next larger sizes, as their increased growth indicates that operation to be necessary. In this manner the plants are grown until they have at- tained the required size for their final shifting into seven-inch pots, to accomplish which object I allow them two years. At the end of the first season’s growth I give the bulbs a rest for three months, retaining them the while in the stove. Returnin growth is induced early in the month of February in the following year, and by the end of autumn the bulbs will have become sufficiently matured to produce bloom in the succeeding winter. I force them as required, and for five successive years they grow luxuriantly without being re-potted. I find it merely necessary to give a top-dressing of fresh soil and elevate the bulb a little if requisite. My motive for confining the roots within seven-inch pots is to permit the plants, when in bloom, being conveniently placed in a basket in the drawing- room, and the roots becoming fully established in these pots, or pot- bound as it is termed, I find the production of flowers greatly aug- mented. Of course, when fine specimens of growth is the object in view, larger pots must be had recourse to. By long experience I find the following compost most suitable to Amaryllids, viz., two parts of strong loam, one part of rotten leaf- mould, and another part of sharp sand; to these I add a small portion of charcoal and a few pieces of broken pot, about the size of marbles. When the plants are in bloom they may, if desired, be remoyed from DESTRUCTION OF APHIDES. 91 the stove into the conservatory, which their gay appearauce will ereatly enliven. They ought, however, immediately their blooms are faded, to be returned to their old situation in the stove, there to remain until the middle of September, water in the mean time being gradually withheld from them. The pots can then be stowed away in any dry spare corner of the stove, until again required for forcing. DESTRUCTION OF APHIDES. DANGER IN USING TOBACCO-WATER. BY MR. THOMAS CONNELLY, GARDENER TO T. R. BRIDSON, ESQ., OF BRIDGE HOUSE, NEAR BOLTON, IN LANCASHIRE, Tur green fly, as it is termed, is throughout the year a troublesome pest, particularly to Pelargoniums. Having recently obtained some choice sorts, they were placed in the hothouse, and soon pushed forth shoots. Very quickly, however, they were covered with the fly. Syringing the plants over with tobacco-water having been recom- mended in several places in the CaBr1neT, I was induced, unfortunately, to apply it to my plants. The directions given in the notices referred to were strictly ad- hered to, viz., “ half a pound of tobacco being placed in a vessel, and boiling water poured over it,” which was finally so reduced in its strength, by addition of water, as to prevent any apparent possibility of harm accruing from the liquid being too powerful. With this infu- sion the plants were syringed, and the insects were immediately des- troyed. The plants, however, soon looked sickly, and began to shrivel. On taking them out of the pots, I discovered that the fine roots, which, previous to syringing, were proceeding rapidly, were killed, and the plants died. What could cause this disaster but the liquid sinking into the soil in which the plants were growing. How the sort of tobaceo I used is prepared I am ignorant of, but it is said that copperas and other poisonous ingredients are employed in its ma- nufacture. Now, whether this be correct or not, to me it appears that the old method of fumigation is far preferable. It is admitted that, by this latter process, a few leaves occasionally are injured, such as those of the Gloxinia, Heliotrope, &e., but such are readily removed, and to no disadvantage to the plant, at all events not to be compared with the new and destructive mode of applying tobacco-water ; be- sides, by the method of fumigation, every crevice, under and above, of the leaves, &c., is acted upon, which cannot be the case by syringing. The difficulty, with some persons, may arise from not knowing how much must be used in fumigating; the following I have always found successful, viz., one pound and a half of tobacco-paper consumed will entirely free a house thirty feet long from these voracious, pestiferous insects. I hope that this communication may be a caution to all in a similar situation to what I, in the first instance, was, and induce them not to syringe with tobacco-water, but fumigate—fumigate, 92 VEGETABLE PHYSIOLOGY, VEGETABLE PHYSIOLOGY. ORGANS OF FRUCTIFICATION,. BY MR, JOHN TODD, DENTON GARDENS, NEAR GRANTHAM. Tue chief object of the growth of plants appears to be the maturation ot seed in the end, in order that new individuals can be raised to supply he places of those which are necessarily appropriated to the sustenance and necessities of innumerable races of animated beings, or swept away by the inevitable consequences of old age, death, and decomposition. Suckers, runners, and offsets are incidental modes of natural propaga- tion ; chiefly, however, the unbroken succession of plants is due to their capacity of giving birth to seeds. These are engendered in the ovarium by the natural action of those delicate and beautiful organs the stamens and pistils, whose ingenious construction and admirable adaptation to the grand end in view are legitimate subjects for the in- vestigation of the gardener, and well deserving his attentive study. It is only in the higher grades of vegetable life that we find a sexual apparatus designed exclusively for the generation of seed; the repro- duction of Cryptogamous plants is effected by a much less complicated though no less efficient means. Ferns, and others of the more highly developed Cryptogama, are multiplied by spores, produced in little cases on the under surface of their leaves (fronds), which, when ripe, split open, and allow the fructifying matter to escape. The repro- duction of Fungi is still more simple, whilst the whole substance of the lower furms of Alge seems to dissolve into myriads of minute gems, each capable of giving birth to a being like its parent. In treating of the fructifying process in Pheenogamia, or Flowering Plants, the structure of the flower will have to be considered. A flower, when perfectly developed, is composed of the following parts— calyx, corolla, stamens, and pistil; and one or more of these parts are present in every flower. The calyx is the exterior portion of the flower, and usually consists of one or more leaflets or sepals, serving as an envelope and protection to the tender flower-bud, and very probably yields to the flower a portion of elaborated food, both before and after its expansion. In immediate contact with the calyx, and between it and the stamens, we find the corolla the most conspicuous, and, it may be added, interesting portion of the flower, for its varied tints and agreeable fragrance have ever been a source of pleasing admiration. Its brilliant colours and honied secretions serve as a decoy to innume- rable tribes of insects, which alight upon its anthers and scatter the fertilizing powder with their lezs and wings, and thus assist in the work of impregnation. Apart from this, the utility of the corolla seems to be identical with that of the calyx, for, although it is absent from many of the flowers, ‘“ yet, if removed from those possessing it before impregnation is completed, fertilisation never takes place.” Within the beautiful corolla are observed a number of delicate filaments, mounted with orange, purple, or whitish-coloured bodies, often so nicely poised as to be susceptible of the slightest breeze. ‘These constitute the male system of a flower, and are called stamens. The little objects crowning their filamentous (thread-like) portion are LANTANA MUTABILIS. 93 known as the anthers, and generally consist of two parallel lobes or cells, which, when the anther is ripe, open, and permit the dispersion of the fertilising powder, or pollen, from within. The pollen is some- times white, red, blue, brown, but most frequently of a yellow colour. It consists of exceedingly minute particles, of regular form and texture, the number of which in one anther is almost incredible; in Cereus grandiflora, Morren counted five hundred, but in others they not un- frequently amount to many thousands. There is a circumstance con- nected with the opening of the anther which must not be silently passed over, because it not only serves as a beautiful specimen of mechanism, but also points out the necessity of regulating’ the hygro- metric condition of the atmosphere during the fecundating process. The anther cells are lined with an exceedingly delicate and highly elastic tissue, which forms an infinite multitude of little springs, that, when dried by the absorbent properties of the pollen grains, contract and pull back the valves of the anthers, by a powerful accumulation of forces which, individually, are scarcely appreciable ; so that the open- ing of the anthers is the result of the maturity of the pollen. Now it is a well-known fact that all fruits ripen much earlier, and in greater perfection, in an atmosphere containing little or no appreciable amount of moisture than in one highly charged with humidity ; therefore, in drawing an analogy, it may reasonably be presumed that the fecunda- ting powder of the anther will do so too. And this we find to be the case, for though vines delight in a humid medium before and after im- pregnation, yet their blossoms never set so kindly as in an atmosphere of comparative dryness. ( To be continued.) : LANTANA MUTABILIS. ‘Tuts is an old inhabitant of our stoves and warm greenhouses, and has long been admired therein. It has recently been cultivated in the open flower-beds in summer, and proves to be a most beautiful and attractive object. The plant will bloom very profusely at any size desired, and forms aneat bush. It usually grows from one foot to one and a half high. The flowers are produced in corymbous heads, in immense profusion ; and are of very distinct delicate white, yellow, and rose in each head of blossoms. It deserves to be in every flower-garden, either as a single ornament or grown inmasses. ‘Ihe flowersare produced much larger out of doors than in the house. £. Sellowiana is also well adapted for the open bed in summer, and as a dwarf plant is a handsome companion to the Verbena, &c. It does remarkably well, too, as a rock-work trailer, its rosy-purple flowers producing a pleasing effect. % ie IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. AST month was the proper time for grafting shrubs, ornamental kinds of trees as Thorns, Limes, &c., but the severe weather being more protracted, such sorts as have been omitted may still be done, but the earlier the better. ‘The increase of Shrubs, &e., .by layering, should be done as early as possible, such as Rhododendrons, &e. Annuals, hardy, such as Clarkia, Nemophila, Larkspur, &c., may be sown in the open bed. ‘The best method of sowing the small seeds in patches is to have a quantity of finely sifted soil, spread a portion where desired; after scattering the seeds sprinkle a proportionate portion over, and then press it closely upon them, which will assist a more early and certain vegetation. If strong frost occur, it is advi- sable to cover a garden pot over during the night and remove it in the morning. Seeds of Biennials too should now be sown in beds, such as Hollyoaks, Sweet Williams, Scabious, Canterbury Bells, &c. Alsu seeds of Perennials as Phloxes, Campanulas, &e. Newly budded trees, that is those budded last season, should be looked over, and if any portion of the stock be pushing shoots they must be rubbed off so that the entire strength should go to the new shoot engrafted. AvuricuLtas.—Give air freely on all suitable occasions, to prevent the flower stems being drawn up weakly. They must, however, be protected against strong wind and dust. By the end of the month the blossoms will be opening, no water must be allowed to fall upon them, and they must be shaded from hot sun by canvas. oe 54 | of Ua & > ih it vara ti2 wit : rene ih eh a +s i ve - Joke. ahead ake ; i : ONE en OG/) GF HZ Meee a oA penge la >) Wy « $ $ A q Y 7A ay L y } a 40 aed, sees JUNE, 1847. ILLUSTRATIONS, HE Vioia rricotor, HEaArtTsEAse, or Pansy, from the French pensée, “ THOUGHT,” is a native of Britain, and in some localities grows in profusion in the cultivated fields; we have seen in some cases eight or ten acres together, one apparent mass of lovely, fragrant flowers. It is only within a few years that special attention has been given to an improvement in the flower, by introducing it into the gardens, and attempting to raise hybrid kinds with the object of having not only more distinctive colours in the same flower, but particularly a perfection in form. ‘To realize this, a very general effort has been made, and yery rapid advances to an universal approved form has been effected, so that if we compare the Pansy in its wild state with one of our recent productions, the contrast is truly astonishing both in the varied colours and altered form. An immense number of persons have been raising hybrid kinds, some of which have succeeded in effecting much improvement in the flower, and the stands of blossoms which now grace our floral exhibitions give testimony thereof, and the Pansy is now termed “a florist’s flower,” and ranks with the meritorious tribes deemed deserving competition at almost every general show. One of these successful individuals is Mr. Major, landscape gardener, &e., at Knostrop, near Leeds; he has obtained several superior ones, which have been sold out into the country during the last few years. The beautiful one which we now figure, named Brug FRINGE, was raised by him, and we are informed that it is not like one or two other kiuds which have been grown for the past four years, which, although they are margined flowers, yet the edging is far from being constant, only occasional ; but the BLue FRINGE is ConsTANT in its very striking border that forms its belting. The variety well merits a place in every collection, and to be seen in every stand of Pansies exhibited. Vol, xv. No. 6.—N.S, i 122 ILLUSTRATIONS. In previous volumes of our Magazine we have inserted valuable articles on the particular treatment in cultivating this highly interesting plant, and to which we respectfully refer our readers. So much having been wrote upon it, and which contains every improvement up to last year, we abstain from a general detail, and only need add, in this place, a few particulars. The general method of growing the Heartsease has been in the open bed, but on a recent occasion we visited a celebrated grower and suc- cessful exhibitor, and saw the culture of them carried out to a con- siderable extent ; in fact with all the kinds grown to obtain blooms for exhibiting at the shows, in pots, and from our. own more recent prac- tice, we are assured that to grow them in pots is very much better than the open bed. We need scarcely add, when there are a surplus of plants of course they will adorn wherever planted. In growing them in pots they require a liberal drainage, a soil similar to what they delight in in the open bed, and to be propagated in the same manner, by cuttings, and new kinds obtained by seed. By having them in pots they can be secured from loss during winter, by having them placed in a cold pit, frame, or similar place of protec- tion. The plants in the open border, too, from the situation, or pecu- liarity of the season, is often affected by mildew, but when grown in pots they can be placed in a situation favourable to their health in all seasons. Plants raised the previous year from cuttings always bloom the most vigorous. The pots will vary as to size as the plants increase in extent, and a re-potting is found necessary; the 24’s are best for spring potting. MopeEs oF PROPAGATION. By Srerp.—In order to have fine proportioned flowers save no seed but from such kinds, and draft out of the collection every one that is not of fine form, so that no impregnation may be effected by inferior sorts. The best time to sow the seed is early in April, or late in August. The soil must constantly be kept moist till the seedlings appear, which in the open bed will be about two months, and a week earlier when sown in pots. When in the open border a situation shaded from hot sun must be chosen, or a temporary shade be employed. Sow thinly, and transplant when they have made four rough leaves. A light loam is suitable to sow in, and cover the seed about one-eighth of an inch. By Currines.—These may be struck at any time from spring to autumn, but they strike the best at the latter season. Side shoots not flowered are the best, short jointed too, and not more than about three inches long. Put them out in a shady border, being careful the bottom of the cutting rests upon the soil, and not left hollow ; also let the soil be closed round the stem, not pressed so as to bruise it, but enough to prevent injury from an opening being left down to the bottom part of the cutting. Water liberally at the time of putting off, and continue, if the season be dry, as circumstances dictate; for a few days after being put off a slight sprinkling over head will prevent the foliage from NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. 123 shrivelling. Let it be recollected that one neglect of watering gene- rally destroys the cuttings. In forming the cuttings, trim off the leaves to within about an inch of the top, then cut across close under a joint, with a clean cut. Insert them so deep as only an inch remains above the soil. As soon as they begin to push pinch off the leads; it induces them to root better, and the plants are more bushy. Orrsers are not so good for successful culture as plants raised from cuttings. Sort.—A maiden loam, which has been turned up with the turf in it, so as to be broken down by the weather; if not sandy, a portion should be added. Take one half of such loam, one quarter well-rotted cow-dung, and the remaining quarter rotten leaf mould. If for a border an annual addition must be given, or which is best, a new bed be made. The same compost for pot culture under all circumstances. Never have the compost sifted, but only broken by the spade. SrruaTion AND PLantinc.—The bed should be where it can be allowed the morning sun till ten o’clock, and the afternoon from three or four, so that shade from hot midday sun is essential. Never have the plants under the drip from trees. For early spring blooming plant in more open, warm situation, in September. In spring planting a more shaded place must be selected. A third plantation should be made early in July. When plants are attacked by mildew, a good dusting over as well as under side of the leaves with common sulphur is a remedy. The varieties now offered to the public as show flowers are numerous, which comprise what will usually meet the taste of some persons in colours, and of others where perfection in form, &c., is essential. It is not always that the best kinds are the successful ones at exhibitions, the more vigorous growth, or mode of exhibiting, having influence with some judges to a decision in favour of the latter. The following kinds comprised the stands of flowers exhibited at the show held on the 13th of May, viz. :— First Prizr, 24 kinds.—Bohemian Girl, Nonsuch, Brown's Are- thusa, Pizarro, Hall’s Rainbow, Duchess of Rutland, Turner’s Othello, White Serjeant, Dr. Wolf, Turner’s Optimus, Lord Hardinge, Gossett, Potentate, One in the Ring, Hooper’s Mary Jane, Climax, Hooper’s Wonderful, Model of Perfection, Turner’s Achilles, Great Britain, Hooper’s Lady Sale, Attraction, Duke of Wellington, King’s Exqui- site, and Shakespeare. Seconp, 24.—Optimus, Baroness Wenman, Pizarro, Cook’s Star, Persies, Duchess of Rutland, Purple Perfection, Discount, Desirable, Regulator, Curion, White Serjeant, Dr. Wolf, Exquisite, Magrath, Orion, Model of Perfection, Jehu, Premier, Arethusa, Wellington, Madonna, Excellent, and Success. NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. AKEBIA QUINATA—FIVE-LEAVED. Lurdizabalacea. Monecia Hexandria. Me. Fortune states this is one of the wild plants he discovered in Chusan, “TI found it growing on the lower sides of the hills, in L 2 124° NOTES ON NEW OR RARE PLANTS. hedges, where it was climbing on other trees, and hanging down in eraceful festoons from the ends of their branches. The flowers are brown, produced in short racemes, and sweet scented. A flower, when fully expanded, is much like a Boronia anemonifolia, but has only three petals. The plant appears to be hardy, and likely to be a desirable one for training over a trellis in the open air, and thus diffuse its fragrance around. It stands in the open ground at the London Horti- cultural Garden.” Figured in Bot. Reg., 28. BrassiA BRACHIATA—LONG-ARMED. Orchidea. Gynandria Monandria. Mr. Hartweg discovered this plant in Guatemala. It has bloomed in the collections of Mr. Bateman and Messrs. Rollissons. The sepals and petals are narrow and very long; a pale greenish colour, tinged slightly with yellow; the lower portion spotted with dark. ‘The labellum is a sulphur colour, spotted with dark. It is very singular and pretty. ‘The flowers are produced in long racemes. Each blossom is eight or nine inches across. Figured in Bot. Reg., 29. CALCEOLARIA AMPLEXICAULIS—CLASPING-LEAVED. A native of Peru and Colombia. Humboldt first discovered it ; and recently Mr. Lobb, who sent seeds to Messrs. Veitch, of Exeter, with whom it has bloomed, It is a half shrubby plant, blooming in the way of integrifolia, corymbosa, and others, which are appropriated to beds during summer. The flowers are of a medium size, a bright yellow colour. It grows two feet high. Figured in Bot. Mag., 4300. CEREUS GRANDIFLORUS MAaynarpI—LApY MAYNARD’S. Cactacee. Monandria Monogynia. This very superb variety was raised by Mr. Kenney, gardener to Viscount Maynard, Eaton Lodge, Dunmow, in Essex. 5 245 /Echmea discolor, noticed ‘ 3 : : a 99 Eschinanthus speciosus, noticed : é ; 4 221 Akbelia quinata, noticed : : “ : . 123 Allamanda grandiflvra, noticed . : : ‘ : 245 Androsase Janguinosa, noticed . 2 : . ° 98 Anemone Japonica, noticed. : ; .. ae 74 Angrecum funale, noticed . . - 98 Anguloa Clowesii, noticed + : ° 4 ‘ 196 Anigozanthus fulginosa, noticed ; 5 , : 98 Ansellia Afiicana, noticed ‘ 4 3 5 3 Aquilegia jucunda, noticed 3 : : : 58 Jeptoceras, noticed . : ; . ° 280 Armeria grandiflora, noticed ; ‘ : ‘ 199 Asystasia coromandeliana, noticed A : ‘ é 196 Azalea squamata, noticed “ : - . . 26 var., Fielder's White, noticed . F ; ° 150 INDEX. MISCELLANEOUS, Aphelexis, remarks on growing - Araucaria imbricata, remarks on ‘ 5 B. as AUTHOR. Baker, Mr. W., reply to : . ‘ ORIGINAL. Boronia serrulata, on the culture of A 5 Botanical Society, meeting of the ; 3 Botany, observations on the study of . NEW PLANTS. Begonia fuchsioides, noticed . Berberis ilicifolia, noticed é Bletia gebina, noticed : Bossiza virgata, noticed Pp F Brassia brachiata, noticed Browallia Jamesoni, noticed Brunfelsia nitida, noticed MISCELLANEOUS. Bouvardia, remarks on the -—— triphylla, remarks on the culture of Brugmansia suaveolens, on blooming dwarfy Bulbs and Seeds, answeron , : . C. AUTHORS. C. C., reply to . . Chitty, Mr. William, on the pleasures of gardening a — on the treatment of Achimenes Clarke, Sophia, on plants in dwelling-roums Clericus, on Bouvardia triphylla A ; —_— on Calla Asthiopica . q on perpetuating Double Stocks A —on the study of botany Connelly, Mr. Thomas, on the destr uction of Aphides “ee & € RKle wa ws 244, 315 Page 71 236 112 51 147 280 200 124 290 174 68 204 211 24 316 ‘INDEX. . ORIGINAL. Calampelus scaber, on the propagation of ° Calluna vulgaris, remarks on the culture of . Camellia, on the propagation and culture of the Campanula glomerata, ‘remarks on the culture of latifolia, ditto : J pyrimidalis, on the culture of : rotundifolia, remarks on . 5 Cardamine pratensis, ditto : ° 3 Cedrus deodara, on raising from seed. ; Cheiranthus cheiri. on the culture of . * Chinese Gardens, remarks on . “ Chlora perfoliata, remarks on the culture UM Bs 4 Chorozemas, on the culture of . : 5 Cicendia filiformis, ditto t 4 : Cinerarias, a descriptive list of . . : Citron, on the culture of the . ° 4 Clematis Siebaldii, var. bicolor, on the culture of Clianthus puniceus, on growing as a standard © Cochlearia officinalis, remarks on Convolvulus sepium, remarks on the culture pt. Cypripedium calceolus, on the culture of ; remarks on . 5 ‘NEW PLANTS. Celogyne ochracee, noticed. : . ———-— speciosa, noticed . ° : Calanthe circuligoides, noticed ; - Calceolaria amplexicaulis, noticed : > Caloscordum nerinefolium, noticed p 3 Camellia Japonica, var. miniata, noticed 4 Campanula nobilis, noticed é ; . Carnations, new varieties, noticed ° ° Cattleya bulbosa, noticed : : A Cerasus Japonica, flore pleno, noticed . . Cereus grandiflorus Maynardi, noticed . ° Cestrum aurantiacum, noticed . . Chirita Sinensis, noticed : Walkeri, noticed Zeylanica, noticed ; Chorozema elegans, noticed . Cleisostoma ionosum, noticed . : . Clematis bulbosa, noticed Collania dulcis, noticed Columnea crassifolia, noticed Convolvulus Italicus, noticed cs @ Gh.OF Ghie. ‘s) 6 « « « Corrzeas (new seedlings), noticed 4 Crowea latifolia, noticed 5 ; Cuphea platycentra, noticed . ° ——-— strigulosa, noticed : 3 Cyananthus “jobatus, noticed . . * © @€ Het e «& 6 te wa) os se 6 8 eC ew Ue th opie, ay ek ve INDEX. 317 Page MISCELLANEOUS. Cacti, answer on re F : 2 ° 3 24 Calceolarias, remarks on 3 5 s ‘ . 24 Calla Akthiopica, ditto : - 216 Camellia, on forcing the : 5 : 240 Camellias, remarks ¢ on, for stocks : 4 Z 96 Carnations, on the running of . : “ * . 140 China, new hardy plants from . . 5 A . 227 Chrysanthemums, list ofnew . . - : : 305 Cobzea scandens, remarks on : é “ 88 Conservatory in Kew Gardens, account of 4 : - 309 Cowslip and Primrose, observations on the : : 230 Crocus, remarks on the - 2 ° - 96 D. AUTHORS. Dahl, on Fuchsia blooms not expanding . ° . 212 —-— on the effects of guanoonthe Fuchsia . : : 192 —-— on the Heartsease ' : A - 233 —-— on the preservation of ditto ° ° A 2 189 Dawson, Mr. W., reply to ; . “ : : 96 December, floral ‘operations Ihe 5 2 - 310 Dianthus, on panne out Pinks in beds : 264 Dickson, Mr. H., on Lightbody’s seedling Ranunculuses = 14 ORIGINAL. Daphne laureola, observations on A b A F 167 Dianthus deltoides, ditto - 5 c J ‘ 152 Digitalis purpurea, ditto ° : ; 165 Drosera rotundifolia, on the culture of . : 4 é 457 NEW PLANTS. Daviesia latifolia, noticed ° : | - ° 200 Dendrobium (noy. spec.), noticed : - ‘i 150 — chrysotoxum, noticed : . ; ; 196 —_——— cretaceum, noticed a d A - 290 ——-— Egertonia, noticed A A F ; 198 ——_——— Kublii, noticed . : ° . . 242 —-———— mesochlorum, noticed . a . F 198 ~——_——— tridenium, noticed : . ¥ 27 Deutzia staminea, noticed - é : 75 318 INDEX. Dianthus Hendersonianus, noticed Diosma capitata, noticed Q ® é - uniflora, noticed i r 4 Dipladenia nobilis, noticed 4 : 4 Dipteracanthus scandens, noticed 3 : MISCELLANEOUS. Drawings, remarks on botanical . e E. AUTHORS. F. H., on foreing Violets : : Errington, Mr. R., on forcing the Camellia ; ORIGINAL. Echium vulgare, remarks on the culture of Epilobium hirsutum, remarks on . * Epiphylum truncatum, on propagating . Lricas.—See also Heaths. -——— on the culture of hardy " 4 Erophila vulgaris, on the culture of : . Eupatorium cannabarinum, remarks on : Euphrasia officinalis, remarks on the culture of Exhibitions, metropolitan floral NEW PLANTS, Echeveria retusa, noticed ° Echinocactus cinnabarinus, noticed Echites Franciseea, noticed . Edgworthia chrysantha, noticed Epacris levigata, noticed eo © @ ©¢ 8 Se «6 ——~— miniata, noticed : : mucronata, noticed : f — paludosa, noticed : . ——— pulchella, noticed P A —_—_ —— —— minia‘a, noticed ‘ ‘ Tauntoniensis, noticed , » Epidendrum plicatum, noticed ° : ——_——— pyriforme, noticed . . Eranthemum strictum, noticed “ e Eria convallarioides, noticed . : ° Eriopsis biloba, noticed ° . < Erythrina Bidwillii, noticed , - - e232. *® = s+ © 131, 185, 234, 253, 277, 298, ee © ee ce -¢ se P 2» we @ le wee 48 309 240 i INDEX, | Escallonia Organensis, noticed ° . Eucalyptus macrocarpa, noticed - c Eutaxia myrtifolia, noticed . ° . Exagonum purga, noticed : F, AUTHORS.’ Flora, on growing Clianthus puniceus . —-— onthe love of flowers. c ° Florista, on soils for flower beds 4 ; on the running of Carnations . Fox, Mr. Richard, on blooming Thunbergia chrysops Fyfe, Mr. A., on Fuchsia flowers not expanding —————-— on growing and exhibiting the Pansey in pots ORIGINAL. February, floral operations for . Floricultural Society, exhibition of the Royal South London Florists, Metropolitan Society of, exhibition . Flowers, a list of choice florist . : — observations on double ‘ : — ona process for preserving 3 on bulbous-rooted . - ———— on drying specimens of . — on planting in beds . . : on the colours of - c ———— on the love of r A NEW PLANTS. Forsythia viridissima, noticed . ; % Franciscea augusta, noticed : - - MISCELLANEOUS. Floral meetings, metropolitan . - Florists, Nature’s hints to 3 ; 4 Flowers, on crowns of . C ———- on grouping . ‘ “ —-— on wintering half-har dy . . Forcing Violets, remarks on . . Foxglove Tree, remarks on the Fy “ Fuchsia, on the blooms of the, not expanding . G. AUTHORS. G. L., on Cobaa scandens : - ; —— query b Greyson, Mr. G., on drying specimens of flowers “2 © @ 120, 319 Page 4 291 200 53 1= 288 106 140 20 188 233 45 185, 277 299 180 42 ‘44 83 | 64 174 63 9, 268, 288 150 a ek 298, 299 . | 188, 212 - 301 320 INDEX ORIGINAL. Galeopsis versicolor, remarks on Gardeners’ Society, meeting of the Regent’ s Park Gardening, remarks on Chinese 5 . — the pleasuresof . Gentiana amarella, remarks on — carnpestris, ditto . » — filiformis, ditto . — pheumonanthe, ditto . . ° Geranium phzum, remarks on the culture of . —- pratense, ditto ° . ———-— sanguineum, ditto . Gesneraceous Plants, general treatment ‘of Gladiolus, on the culture of the . remarks on ditto - : Glass, remarks on coloured . a *_ ee © © @ Glechoma hederacea, remarks on Gloxinias, remarks on cultivating —on propagation of . Gnaphalium dioicum, remarks on NEW PLANTS. Galeandra Baueri, noticed - . Gardenia Devoniana, reference to plate. —longistyla, noticed . : . — malliefra, noticed $ . M Gastrolobium villosum, noticed . . Gesneria elliptica lutea, noticed . . Gloxinia albo-sanguinea, noticed Fyfiana, noticed 147, reference to plate —— Handleyana, noticed . . MISCELLANEOUS. Gardeners, rules for : : 5 Grafting, remarks on 5 Guano, on the effects of, on Fuchsias “ Guard, remarks on a new, for slugs e 15M AUTHORS. H. D., reply to : Hale, Mr., on the culture of Boronia serrulata : Hunt, Mr R., on coloured glass . i —— es INDEX, ORIGINAL. Hawthorn, on the’ ° 5 5 : Heaths, see also Ericas. - onthe management of Cape . . Heating, remarks on . . ° Helianthemum yulgare, observations on : Herbert, the Hon. and Rev. William, decease of Horticultural Society, exhibitions of the -—— meetings of . Hyacinthus nonsceriptus, observations on Hydrangea, on the blue-flowered ‘ — on the change of colour in the — hortensis, on the colour of . Hypericum humifusum, observations on ————- perforatum, ditto. . ————— pulchrum, ditto . > eet © © ®©@ © © @ NEW PLANTS. Heliophila trifida, noticed ° Henfreya scandens, noticed . Hibiscus grossularizfolius, noticed ———— moscheutos, noticed . Hollbollia acuminata, noticed . Hoya campanulata, noticed =. —-— imperialis, noticed ° Hydrolea spinosa, noticed s Hypocyrta leucostoma, noticed MISCELLANEOUS. ' Heartsease, see also Pansey. ——remarksonthe . 5 Heating, query on the Polmaise system of Hyacinths, on forcing . . : : Hydrangeas, on changing the colours of ° if ‘ORIGINAL. Iris pseudo-acorus, on theculture of . ° Ixias, remarks on ditto és . - NEW PLANTS. Impatiens platypetala, noticed . Ipomea muricata, noticed 4 - - pulchella, noticed : . 5 Tris aurea, noticed 5 : : Trissetosa, noticed r “ : c Isopogon spherocephalus, noticed ° : -™ eat 0) a 9 omen we oe hing ee ese 256 167 322 INDEX, P Ixora Griffithii, noticed 3 , ° b : 213 —-— hydrangoformis, noticed . : 5 5 é 198 —-— Javanicum, noticed ¢ z . L . 198 J. AUTHORS. J. B., on (> omnes the double-white moss Rose . ° 280 reply ° . : 96 Johnstone, ty. Esq , on British plants . . ° : : 1} ORIGINAL. January, floral operations for . . : : ° 21 July, ditto ditto ° - 4 - 190 ane, ditto ditto A . ‘ 143 Juniperus communis, remarks on 4 - ss ° 167 NEW PLANT. Jaquemontia canescens, noticed » : ; ; 125 K. AUTHOR. K. C., on Wardian Cases ‘ ‘ ; x : 140 L. AUTHORS. Letitia, query by : & A A 213 Lucy, on blooming Brugmansia suaveolens . : : 211 —-— on the propagation of Calampelus scaber é ° 42 —-— reply to . . . . . . 24 ¢ ORIGINAL. Lakes, remarks on Chinese artificial . 5 2 ° 281 Lawns, remarks on cleaning . ° . ° . 62 Lemon, on the culture of the . ° ° : 30 Leonitis leonurus, ditto i 5 S ; - 207 Leschenaultias, ditto . ‘ ; 5 H = 1 Lily of the Valley, ditto . . . . 62 Linaria cymbalaria, remarks on ° . . e 165 Linnea borealis, ditto . . : ° ° ° 160 Lychnis dioica, ditto. : . . . 156 - fulgens, on the culture of . . . 172 INDEX. NEW PLANTS. Lemonia spectabilis, noticed . a Leschenaultia arcuata, reference to plate ° ——_ splendens, ditto . - . Leucothoe pulchra, noticed P : Liebegia speciosa, noticed - . ° Lisianthus acutangulus, noticed ° ° Lonicera discolor, noticed - . Lyonia Jamaicensis, noticed . MISCELLANEOUS. Lantana mutabilis, remarks on . ; ° Lime, on the effects of : “ —-— superphosphate of, as manure. > M. AUTHORS. Mary, on Lychnis fulgens : . : Mayen, Dr., on Chinese gardening : . Meta, on the culture of the Gladiolus - ~ ORIGINAL. March, floral operations for. ° . Martynia fragrans, on the culture of . * May, floral operations for . Meconopsis Cambricum, on the culture of . Malampyrum arvense, remarks on ditto : Melittis melisophyllum, on the culture of ‘ Menyanthes trifoliata, observations on . . Menziesia polifolia, ditto . : ° Mignionette, on the tree e . — on the winter cullure of 5 NEW PLANTS. Martynia fragrans, noticed . F 3 Medinilla speciosa, noticed c A , Mirbelia illicifolia, noticed ; ; 3 MISCELLANEOUS, Mammillaria pulchra, on treating as an aqual c Metropolitan Dahlia Society . : . . 96 173 82 yi! 68 85 118 56, 126 296 324 INDEX. Mice, on destroying . t 3 Morphology, on vegetable E ; Moss, to destroy ° ‘ ‘ 4 N. AUTHOR. Newport, on Calceolarias ~ c ORIGINAL. November, floral operations for . . NEW PLANTS. Navarettia squarrosa, noticed . P Nepenthes Rafflesiana, noticed F Niphza albo-lineata, noticed . ° MISCELLANEOUS. Nature’s Hints to Florists : . ‘i 0. AUTHOR. Observer, a select list of Ranunculuses by ° ORIGINAL. October, floral operations for . . . Orange, on the culture ofthe . ° : Orchis mascula, ditto . 2 : Oxalis acetosella, remarks on ; : Oxytropis Uralensis, ditto P . ‘ NEW PLANTS. Odontoglossum hastilabium, noticed Oncidium Barkeri, noticed 3 ms Onobrychis radiata, noticed .. . y Page 142 138 . 204 - 24 286 . 292 75 ° 53 ° 301 - 88, 180 . 262 30, 104, 178 . 167 157 ° 157 ° 6 148 197 INDEX. 325 Page 1 AUTHORS. P., on the protection of plants in winter 66 Propagator, an Extensive, on Wild Rose Stocks ‘for pudding upon 304 Purdie, Mr., botanical expedition of . . : . 208 ORIGINAT. Pansey, see also Heartsease. - on growing, in pots ° . . . 233 - on the modes of propagating the 4 . ° 122 Parnassia palustris, remarks on the culture of . ° : 154 Pelargonium citriodra, on the . : é ; ° 271 ——_—— on the culture of the scarlet - . : 84 Physiology, remarks on vegetable 7 2 . . 9, 92 Picotees, exhibitions of : 5 ‘ - 4 218 Pinks, on planting out in beds . A é ‘ 4 264 Pinguicula grandiflora, on the cuiture of - . . 12 Plants, observations on British, for rockeries . ° 5 126 ———— — onthe eulture of British . errell;: fa isoe 229 on exposing greenhouse : . . . 151 on increasing by inarching, &c. . . ; 181 SSS — exotic . . : . . 169 on the protection of, in winter . ; A 66 on the repose of : : ° ° . 277 remarks on, in dwelling-rooms . . ° ° 115 -— in pots : : ° . 288 Poinsettia pulcherrima, on the culfure of é : . oT Polygonum amphibium, remarkson_. . ° B 167 —_——— bistorta, ditto - - 5 ° ° 167 Potentilla anserina, ditto - . A ° ° 159 verna, ditto “ i 2 ef $ 4 159 Primula Scotica, ditto . 4 : - 3 166 Pyrolas, remarks on the culture of : : : ° 162 NEW PLANTS. , Pansey, Blue Fringe, reference to plate . . . 121 Passifiora Kermesina, var. Lemicheziana, noticed . : 222 Pelargonium Tom Thumb, ‘noticed : : . " 144 Pelargoniums, new varieties, noticed . . * 3 23 seedlings, noticed ° . 225 Pentstemon gentianoides alba, reference to plate . . 241 — — Gordoni, noticed . : ; * « 223 —— miniatus, noticed . . ° . . 77 Pharbitis cathartica, noticed A - “ 77 Picotee, Edmond’s Jenny Lind, reference to plate . . 217 — new varieties, noticed - . . . 245 Plumbago (nov. spec.), noticed . . . . 199 Polygalea juncea, noticed 5 “ 4 ° ° 199 Porphyrocome lanceolata, noticed a e a 2 100 326 INDEX. Primula Munroi, noticed , = : A “ Pterostigma grandiflora, noticed ’ 5 5 = Puya Altensteinii, var. gigantea, noticed . . ° MISCELLANEOUS. Panseys, on cultivating in pots ° : — on the preservation of ’ . Paulonia imperialis, remarks on Pelargoniums, a list of for forcing Pink, criterion of a good 4 F 4 on foreing the ( . : Pinus, on raising from seed 5 ~ . Planting, query on : 5 Plants, exhibition of American ; : —onthe natureof - : . : 5 . ——— influence of Light on ae. F Fy ; Primrose, observations on the . A 3 — on the culture of the Chinese : - , R. AUTHORS. Riscemara, query by . . é : : a Rosa, answer by : 3 : —-— on the culture of various kinds of Roses . 5 ORIGINAL. Ranunculus alpestris, remarks on ‘ 5 Fs Ranunculuses, a descriptive list of the best — a select list of . 3 - Rhinanthus crista-galli, remarks on X : - 150 Ribes Menziesii, noticed . ° : : 268 Rigidella orthantha, noticed . . ‘ . . 197 Roses, new varieties, noticed . 5 $ 5 a 246 Ruellia macrophylla, noticed . : . ‘ ‘ 77 ——— Purdieana, noticed 5 ; : 5 125 violacea, noticed 5 é 3 . ‘ 199 MISCELLANEOUS. Ranunculuses, on seedling A i . - 141 Rats and mice, to destroy 3 : J - 67 Rhododendron, on propagating from seed . . 280 Root, remarks on grafting the . : 5 2 8) Rosa Harrisonii A e - : : 295 Roses, a list of = é P ‘ " 72 answer on e . : . 189 ——— on the culture of China - : A - ld ——— query on . . . . . . 72 ——— to destroy moss on : 5 F . . 104 Ss. AUTHORS. ° Sandford, Mr. Richard, on the Camellia 3 es 129 Senex, on the repose of plants . . . 276 on the sap of plants : : . c A 79 Short, Mr. T., reply to . . é . ‘ 24 Slater, Mr., on the Tulip : - < - 303 ORIGINAL. Salvia verbenaea, remarks on . ; . . . 166 Sap, remarks on, of plants . 2 B ° 79 Saxifraga hypnoides, remarks on C 4 ° 5 160 ———— oppositifolia, on the culture of : 3 - 13, 160 Sedum anglicum, noticed ; ® : . 160 September, floral operations for > ° . 238 Shrubs, on planting . : : 284 ——— remarks on transplanting . . . 63 Silene acaulis, remarks on the culture of : J ° 154 —— inflata, ‘ditto ; é 5 : : 154 Solanum duleamara, remarks on : F . 5 165 Sparaxis, remarks on the cultivation of the A . : 78 Spergula nodosus, remarks on . . . : : 156 Spireea filipentula, di'to . . ‘ . ‘ 158 328 : INDEX, Page Stocks, on perpetuating doubie-flowering F $ 47 Sun-flower, on the Annual : : . 2 110 NEW PLANTS. | Saccolabium miniatum, noticed 3 Q : ; 268 Salvia Camertonii, noticed ° ° ; ; F 6 —--— dulcis, noticed . ‘ . “ 5 f 149 —--— gesneriflora, reference to plate . 5 5 f 97 Scutellaria, (nov. spee.), noticed e 4 5 : 248 ————— cordifoiia, noticed . . : . 77 —-——_——-_ ventenati, noticed . ; ‘ . ; 6 Siphocampylus cordatus, reference to plate : . 73 ——_———-— glandulosus, noticed ° 5 . 268 ——-— microstoma, reference to plate . 4 s 73 Smithia purpurea, noticed - . ° ° 53 Solanum jasminoides, noticed . ° : . 149 Spiraea prunifolia pleno, noticed : : ° 100 —-—— pubescens, noticed = " . : 5 150 Stachytarpheta aristata, noticed . 4 : ° 248 Statice eximia, noticed ; : . ° “ o7 Stephanotus Thomasii, noticed d : . 2 248 Swainsonia Greyiana, noticed . ° : : : 7 MISCELLANEOUS. Scale, remarks on destroying . - : : . 142 Seeds, answer on New Holland 5 ° . ° 213 —— query onditto . c . . 5 “ 213 Soils, remarks on, for flower-beds 7 . ss F 106 Spider, to destroy the red . - . ° ‘ 71 Spirea prunifolia pleno, remarks on. ; : . 20 ie AUTHORS. Tne Manager of a Floral Establishment, on culture of Chorozemas 39 Thompson, Mr., on the culture of the Orange. : . 104 Thorne, Mr. Frederick, on Poinsettia pulcherrima ‘ < 211 —_— on the culture of the Amaryllis 4 90 - — tree Violet ° 4 . 125 Todd, Mr. J., on vegetable physiology . : . . 9, $2 ORIGINAL. Thrip, on destroying the : . ‘ 3 34 Thunbergia chrysops, on blooming 4 4 5 - 20 Tobacco-water, on the danger of using : 4 eee dail INDEX. Trollius Europeus, on the culture of. ¢ ‘ 5 Tuberose, on the culture of the 2 ‘ 3 < Tulip Society, exhibition of the Amateur . ‘ e Tulipa sylvestris, on the cultureof- . - : . NEW PLANTS. Thibaudia pulcherrima, noticed A : ° ° Tigridia conchiflora, noticed . - A 3 - Torenia Asiatica, noticed A . 5 : Tritonia aurea, noticed : : : ~ Tropeolum speciosum, noticed, 149 ; reference to plate tricolorum, var. Jarrattii, noticed A - “ ———— umbellatum, noticed . 4 ‘ = 2 Trymalium odoratissimum, noticed i; 4 , REVIEWS. The Ranunculus, and How to Grow it, reviewed Three Years’ Wanderings in the Northern Provinces of China, reviewed : A P “ - ‘ MISCELLANEOUS. Thrip, on destroying the - - . ° : Thuja pyrimidalis, remarks on . . - - Tropeolum Lobbianum, ditto. . - . ° Vv. AUTHOR. Viola, on cultivating Panseysin pots . 3 ORIGINAL. Vaccinium vitees-ideea, remarks on : - - . Verbascum thapsus, ditto - - R : . Veronica chameedrys, ditto F . . : : Vicia cracca, ditto ; : > : . Villarsia nymphwoides, ditto : . . : Viola hirta, remarks on the culture of . - : . Violet, on the culture of the double sweet 4 ° . ——_——_-—— tree : . ° . NEW PLANTS. Vanda Lowii, noticed . . : D . . violacea, noticed a i. - n Vol. xv. No. 12.—N.S8. 2D 200 202 24 203 117 162 165 164 158 164 155 61 125 101 149 330 INDEX. Page Verbenas, new varieties, noticed : : ° F 245 Vernonia axilliflora, noticed é : . ‘ 247 Viburnum (nov. spec.), noticed it 2 i : 150 -—- plicatum, noticed: . . : . ° 244 Viminaria denudata, noticed . ‘ : : , 198 MISCELLANEOUS. Verbena, answer on the scarlet - : ° : 72 —— query on ditto : . ° oa . 72 Victoria regia, noticed . . . : . 27, 48 Violets, on forcing : 5 . . : : 309 W. “ AUTHORS. W. A., An Amateur, on blue-flowered Hydrangeas 5 . 227 Wild, Mr. J., remarks by . . “ : : 56 ORIGINAL. Weigela rosea, on the culture of . 3 5 - 145 NEW PLANT. Weigela rosea, noticed, 151; reference to plate . 2 145 MISCELLANEOUS. Wardian Cases, remarks on - . A - 105, 140 Willow, remarks on the weeping : = 5 s 96 Wire-worm, on destroying the . t é 4 - 66, 203 xX AUTHOR. X, Y., on the colours of flowers . 5 - 63 Z. NEW PLANT. Zichya villosa, noticed . : . . : 200 ILLUSTRATIONS. Abutilon venosum . Achimenes cupreata Anemone Japonica . Gardenia Devoniana . Gloxinia Fyfiana Leschenaultia arcuata ; ——splendens . Pentstemon gentianoides alba Gordoni . M‘Ewani . Picotee Jenny Lind Salvia gesneriflora A Siphocampylos cordatus . ——— microstoma Tropzolum speciosum Viola tricolor, var. Blue Fringe Weigela rosea . 4 INDEX, 331 Reference. 5 193 — 239 =~ 265 = 49 = os 4 tal : ae te ie Teta ae es Wy es ata moe, a a” ra : = _— Lenya “ite ride 1. fi wea A i 6 Pek ht Path ig Ne a” oe) Whey i tog") -. 6 q 7 ne se cee US Meany toe Reed ng as leds, al ‘, : they > Vy ed Peart, ‘ ii nt es + wr ty cA i " > TT ae senor ip Deveney wi shuger rele: -wererer pr ereh eb) tepeteteubest o. Dera rete eal» Fen ahenene rete etera. spot aiantbtret nb Anas ore ers osennd ones paoepysecta ae Serfeh preset wo nye vterengtemetone iargne doterors: ebvereor - seca p she” geeeten sg wwe Fe Crescent Sores we e planeten eset eg = ae : Feel ee cee vets | stat tare ie! MP eReOeD oh ei BHaMe alot bespret Here ene te © ppoteerereeerer oy toe aor celee pemeet ee ke ete ee Take POWER eget “upon Ope erat ered weg ares ene eie edeewe rene ner ote: So os bep dere Tene eee nee ee Crarseseerss Be eeketel ar ty wp eteraten eaharewioter sah sie tere Bre pamgee ntere © viesees ro Bh ne ee pehere aseteres her rene pores Steere Ore TV EE ee ere te eee Sra cor ieee entrees lope wet ene ee tte merges # ofa) “4@ ee opera ve Sens poate a nana free eee hel een ORT! 88 F where Merrrtrerscbee) oi te hates V Opere inte te whe wie shot ee) my Ceres + Re 0) + wr fenbeureeiare le emi bre ey o eee eet Serie inset ee ee i somhe we bes oo Foe eee re Slee ie ene oor haeee sane alee “eee sees” Ca oteporerosaton: » sctpertirnpinreres Sorters — "Mabe eaneer very mrerks Oh NONSO Ws heme aie ee wre Conese “ane ti eens iene ee ° Derren rete Nets iegeretererers es See eee cveretipres cameo le ne: Sperrennrs norerss Sete scene er Be eet wie. be » 9 nel be 9 ange eee ee icone wee SUL eE rh rsannteneserenenes enone eve wee Barsrierrmnnors bese SRS eer eres Puss emtagere © Heese ewe, ov ese tere Wersre re Ste Cent a erat ober obebesare: sab. Seah brs, ores Uhereta.-dreyerh oe oe ete wets fantere wie ere shor 8" Utley 2 cae teh se pte ~ he ein y Wes'tet elevate: ane . ven Serer toe OB lere ereTEtitely OF eho 8 wie the se gie abe +h et eee COR t errr “0 410/@) | nme /Ohe' # he 0le pep ss See hme: Vee ole anew veelee peieberdye fees ee Soest erates re. “ wise sy Oe CfODLO & OF o/s ab street Lohed ‘ ot me ee ee jaheaed, ose ert on aHeH or ebapaietere ern) war joa eh aie see [sO Oe ee pene anes aman wake war) hemhl Or agh ere mares ele wns ete eee So erirnt i ee ae Pfeieess rele sess ~Y O56 Ch anoen rat eter» Socers ” foie bye ares stefan jo ei igies ese heiare vend rt cb ereterie where ee eae Ole) 20 Ore 8 eee helo Hk eens _ [ers hosein shelerereisre erste, vesprenpre Seepolaletncercyeigeccossicts ine eetincs eee Sriereeresere ere soe sie) shel enews) bie e. stents agora Rv erases. mre ere aes pies ehetere ere ae esas Tot ee ogee ee PIE cork Snore aa seer Sea Theme ae fol perenne’ tis Oro! or Of emu ob meen Fealgerebipenetonns aii ee ess ered oer Gi as. cvespencpon eae se Sie eateennige mesateptosstl Sereastote: ator | tpeeesere, ee ber, een Tp eaere ote ho ete: Oe ons eR obese: sf eaere arn itnnpey: bipowe mere sy ti9OS oy 'elbent arevalolsy isereeseiess qieee tree patie Stockh Soe hate serene oraret Lilnccp stones sv nseese tresors: iw c-tb terse egesars. perce loeb oheamemeey coeennec rere o Senne wane (Oey F Odense preeye ime) ee herts noe eSB Teaig