With Compliments of — CHAS. MOHR. Sn ase ‘ on. ats a LEE LSS co etlin j THE FORESTS OF ALABAMA \ . A IN D THEIR r mR Of Cols, BY st Ake ¥ Li €2. .4** 115 Yi ¥ 9 RS CHARLES MOHR, OF MOBILE, ALABAMA. No aie al ane Bol Athi | - ~~ t & Re ig Sew Gs The, fifty thousand square miles which make up the area of this State were, originally, a nearly unbroken forest—it may be said up to the end of the first quarter of this century; with the excep- - tion of a comparatively small area of prairie land, and grassy Savannas in the southern portion of its centre. According to the latest statistics +, seven-tenths of this forest are stlll existing, amounting. to 20,630,963 acres; some of it culled of its largest: timber growth, but the greater part in its virgin state, scarcely> touched by the axe. One-half of the lands owned by the farmers are yet wood lands. The heaviest timbered lands are found in the southern part of the State within the great maritime pine belt, where the forest area amounts to 66 per cent.; in the cen- tral counties, situated in the prairie region and embracing the cotton belt, it amounts to 45 per cent.; in the broken mountain- eous part, embracing the mineral region and extending to the waters of the Tennessee river, to nearly 70 per cent.; and in the northern part, with the rich agricultural land in the Tennessee valley, to 60 per cent. According to the distribution ofthe prevailng trees, determined by climatic influences, the nature of the soil, and the topographic features of the country, the forests of this State present three characteristic regions. Distinct as they are by peculiar features, their boundaries cannot be defined. by a distinct line— one region passing almost imperceptibly into the other. The first, or lower, region is formed by the great pine belt of the Gulf coast—the continuation of the immense pine forest which extends from the eastern bank of the Mississippi to the shores of the Atlantic ocean. It covers the southern part, unin- terruptedly, from east to west, and extends from one hundred to o MEY 2 ae ra | one hundred and fifty miles into the interior. This area is almost exclusively occupied by coniferous trees—the undulating dry and sandy uplands entirely by the long leaved, or yellow pine, the most important while most valuable of our timber trees, which arrives here at its greatest perfection. On the lands more level and with a substratum more retentive of moisture, it is accompanied by the pond pine, and the loblolly, or old field pine. Following the sandy and gravelly deposits of the drift, the limits of that forma- tion determine the northern boundary of the pine region, proper. A growth of pine trees, however, prevails wherever the siliceous constituents of the drift soil mingle with the outcrops of the tertiary strata. This is the great timber region of the State. Traversed centrally and towards the east by the numerous tributaries of the Escambia river, a large share of its products finds an outlet in Pensacola; westwardly the Alabama and Tombigbee rivers with their affluents, offer an access to the sea by the port of Mobile; while a small portion along the western boundary line of the State by the eastern tributaries of the Esquatawba river is attracted to the mills and wharves along the Pascagoula river. The products of this forest of yellow pine assume, with every year, a greater importance to the business of the Gulf ports; and their exports from the seaport of this State, entering only since the beginning of this decade in competition with its neigh- bors, show a steady and rapid increase in the production and export of sawed lumber, square timber, spars, shingles, and par- ticularly in the receipt of naval stores. A proper idea of the great wealth offered by this lumber region of our State, almost exclusively derived from one single species of Pine, will be gained from the following statements taken from the reports of The Mobile Board of Trade, exhibiting the receipts and exports of lumber and naval stores from that port since the year 1872 to the present time: the exports of sawed lumber amounting in 1872, to 4,000,000 feet, increased to 7,000,000 in the following year, to 12,000,000 in 1876, to 18,000,000 in 1877, and it can be safely assumed that in this year (1878) the export will not fall short of 20,000,000 feet, representing a value of at least $200,000. The production of naval stores exhibits an equally rapid increase. The rosin and spirits of turpentine reaching the Mobile market from the adjacent country, in 1873, amounted to $750,000, showing already, at that period, an increase of 50 per cent. over the production of any former year; increasing to over $1,000,000 in 1874; and in the year 1876, the receipts were much greater, their value amounting to $1,200,000, involving a vastly 3 increased production by the much reduced prices of these articles ruling during the last two years. In these sums, the quantities required for home consumption are not included. If those, and the quantities of sawed lumber and squared timber derived from the pine belt within the confines of our State, and which are exported from Pensacola, so far the chief centre of the lumber business on this coast, are considered, the amounts given above will certainly be doubled. Lastly, with the exhaustion of the yellow pine forest that encircled Pensacola bay, and of those in convenient reach upon the coast of continental Florida, a very large quota of the saw logs are drawn from Alabama by the trib- utaries and head waters of the Escambia and the Perdido river. The average height of the yellow pine in the virgin forest is from sixty to seventy feet, with a diameter of 12 to 18 inches for two-thirds of its height. Itis of slow growth, particularly at the later periods of its life. According to the number of annual rings, trees of the above dimensions must have reached an age of 60 to 70 years.. The reproduction of a tree from the seed, fur- nishing an equal supply of timber, would at this rate take about two generations. It is a poor seeder, as the younger Michaux ob- served. In unfruitful years, a forest of hundreds of miles may be ransacked without finding a single cone, and these; according to my observations, are far more frequent than fruitful ones. In its struggle for existence in our days, the odds of a survival of its kind amongst the arborescent vegetation that disputes its ground are greatly against it. Taken from the flat and moist lands, and it is replaced almost exclusively by the pond and old field pine; the hilly, broken, dry upland, denuded of the grand old pine forest, is with surprising rapidity covered by a dense and scrubby growth of blackjack, turkey oak, scarlet and upland willow oak, above which, seldom a young yellow pine raises its head, crowned with its large white-fringed terminal bud. Full of resin- ous juices, through all stages of its life, the young trees are not as able to withstand the raging fires that annually devastate the woods, as the less resinous species, and the deciduous leafed trees ; besides that being of much slower growth, this noble tree is doomed to extinction, if not protected by the aid of man. On tracts sheltered from the invasion of fire, groves of young trees, from 15 to 20 feét high, can be observed around Mobile, testify- ing that its existence for the future can in some measure be se- cured, if protected from these destructive influences, unneces- sarily caused by man. The utmost efforts by an enlightened community, should be made through active and efficient State 4 legislation, without further delay, to guard against the calamity of a total destruction of such a magnificent estate entrusted to the hands of our people. Besides its contributions to the mani- fold necessities of the agriculturist, the builder, in naval architec- ture, the construction of railroads, the arts, medicine, and the in- numerable smaller demands of domestic economy and the varied industries of the world, the influences of this great pine belt upon the climatic conditions and the salubrity of this coast are even of more far reaching importance to the interest of the commu- nity at large, extending far outside of its confines. Rearing its horizontally outspreading limbs high up into the atmospheric ocean, their branches densely clothed with the long, slender leaves, the forest of these trees present to the canopy of heaven, for many hundred of square miles, an unbroken sheet of perpet- ually active vegetation, whose forces at such an altitude affect a constant attraction to the fleeting clouds, causing them to deposit their life-giving and supporting humidity, in grateful showers over avery large area with wonderful regularity during all seasons. To this fact is due the delightful climate of this part of our country, equalizing its temperature particularly in tempering the rigors of the long summers of aregionnear thetropics. Dur- ing the great progress in meteorological science of late years, the fact has been established that in their exercise upon the condi- tions of the atmosphere as regards the precipitation of its mois- ture, the pine trees stand unrivalled amongst all other trees of the forest. Robbed of this protection, the hills and plains of the Gulf region, now blooming and clothed with the richest verdue, would be arid and parched, presenting as forbidding and austere an aspect as those of the denuded coasts of Africa along the Mediterranean sea, devoid of productive power, and unfit for the habitation of civilized man, smarting under the scorching rays of the sun. The efforts of nature are ever directed to recuperation in its aims to insure the existence of different forms of the living organisms from generation to generation. To secure to our pos- terity the blessings enjoyed by us by its bounty, in assisting these efforts as dictated by her laws, is a stern duty imposed upon us. Its discharge in the prevention of a wanton destruc- tion of our forests, and the adoption of measures regulated by the light of science, common sense, and the proper regard to the future of our State, should engage the attention of every intel- ligent and patriotic citizen, appealing particularly to the owners of the soil. Of little importance to agriculture and industry, are the other species of pines found in this region. Of considerably 5 smaller dimensions than the yellow pine, and of a soft and sappy wood, they have, as timber trees, but a small value. On ae- count of their rapid growth, they are, however, important re- sources of fire wood, and’of a lumber of inferior quality, fit for ordinary purposes, as the manufacture of boxes, ete. Next to the yellow pine in importance, follows the Cypress— Taxadium destichum. It grows in great abundance on the per- petually overflowed banks of, and in the marshes skirting, the ° rivers in the tide water region, as well as the deep inundated Swamps in the pine region from which issue the feeders of the inumerable creeks that water the pine belt. Here, it reaches gigantic dimensions—trunks from a hundred and more feet in height, and from twenty-five to forty feet in circumference above the conical base, are frequently met with in the forest swamps of the Tensaw river. Logs, of three to four feet in diameter, are oftén floated down to the shingle yards and saw mills of Mobile. Its lumber finds a variety of application. It is mostly sawed into planks for exportation, lately in increasing quantities; much of it is used in the manufacture of doors, window-Sashes, and other cabinet work, and in that of shingles. For posts, it is scarcely rivaled, resisting the action of water for ages. The Juniper,— Cupressus thyoides, is gaining, of late years, with the manufacture of woodenware, the attention which by the ex- cellent qualities of its wood, it deserves.. This fine tree is found in great perfection on the low land skirting our great rivers, and in the large forest swamps of the low pine barrens, preferring a partially inundated soil. Soft, light, easily worked, of a fine erain admitting of high’ finish and pleasing hue, when well seasoned its wood offers the finest material, particularly for the manufacture of hollowware. This industry, lately established in Mobile, is capable of great development, as by the inexhaustible supply of timber within easy reach, such goods can be made cheaper here than in any other part of the United States. The Live Oak— Quercus virens, has ceased to be a source of timber here. The excellent ‘qualities of its wood, particularly fitting it for ship bullding, has, like everywhere else on the Gulf coast, led to a rapid destruction of the stately groves that ex- tended along our seashore. Itis only by the effort of the own- ers of the land who have a love for that which is grand and lovely in nature, that these beautiful and noble trees will be preserved, and not cease to form one of the most pleasing features in the landscape of our coast. The black jack, turkey oak, spanish oak, upland willow oak, 6 and a more or less scrubby growth of black and red oaks, with a _ sprinkling of hickory, form the second growth on the denuded dry pine land. These furnish the supply of hard fire-wood. The growth of these trees on the poor looking lands is indeed sur- prising, forming, after fifteen or twenty years, when protected from fire, fine large groves. The water ash, growing with the sweet bay and juniper, in the low, inundated swamps, must be mentioned as one of the trees furnishing much of the fire wood. The light, yet tenaceous, wood of the sweet bay, is much used for broom handles. The grand and sober monotony that charac- terizes the pine forest, finds a pleasant relief in the thickets and glades of evergreen shrubs and various smaller trees which fringe the water courses and swamps. The red bay, sweet bay, small gum tree, wax myrtle, with a dense growth of the ti-ti, inter- spersed by dahoons, hollys, and red maple, intertwined by a va- riety of climbers and vines, thorny, like those belonging to the different kinds of smilax, adorned with flowers, as the yellow jes- samine, the graceful wistaria, and peculiar crossvine, form impreg- nable thickets, the home of the wild cat, the panther, and the bear. The lands above high water, in the maratime plains of the pine region, with a soil richer in vegetable mould, are the home of the lofty magnolias, the live oak, water oak, associated with the pond pine. These are called hammock lands. They harbor an undergrowth of shrubbery unsurpassed in variety and beauty. There the sweet illicium, and the calycanthus, or spice shrub, are found, with rich blooming andromedas, blueberries, azalias, and the gorgeously blooming kalmia, or sheepslaurel. There the fra- grant storax shrubs, the delicate halesia and fringe tree, with the cyrilla, stuartia and clethra, unfold their snowy flowers, with many others, delighting the eye, by the richness of their bloom, from the earliest beginning of the spring to the end of the sum- mer, offering a lasting feast to the bee, which for the largest part of the year is here found to gather the sweet treasures, distilled in the flowery cups. Asa honey producing country, this district can be scarcely rivaled. | Where the limestones and the marls of the tertiary and cre- taceous formation begin to prevail, free from the cover of sandy drift soil, the second forest region of the State is entered. Here the evergreens give way to the largely preponderating trees with deciduous leaves, and the pine is confined to the poor ridges and thinnest soils. The forest growth is originally interrupted by more or less extensive savannas. The post oak covers, in exten- sive tracts, the stiffer calcareous soils, White oaks, the overcup 7 oak, and the willow oak, with ash trees, elms, walnuts and hickories, cover the richer black lands, composing fine woods, full of useful timber of large dimensions. As a timber region for export, it . has yet no importance, only a limited quantity of oak staves reach the seaboard by the Mobile and Tombigbee rivers. The richest agricultural districts of the State are embraced in these regions. At its northern limits it borders upon a deposit of drift, which traverses the State from northwest to southeast, 4 to 5 miles wide at its southern, reaching gradually towards its northern end a width of 30 to 35 miles. Like the great coast pine belt, it is covered with an almost continuous forest of the yellow pine, whose products so far serve only to supply the demand of the surrounding country. | Beyond this drift belt, in the. eastern half of the State, the generous red Jands of the metamorphic region are covered, where not deprived of it by cultivation, with magnificent oak forests. _* Here, at an altitude of from 800 to 1,200 feet above the level of the Gulf, the types of a Southern vegetation are missing, but the occurrence of the water and willow oak, the overcup and spanish oak, as well as the frequency of large yellow pines, which cover the crests of the elevated rocky mountain ranges, and the more barren hills with a rocky, siliceous soil, still impress on this re- gion, a Southern character. The latter tree is replaced, gradually, towards the north, by the short leaved pine, Pinus mitis, which fur- nishes, in the upper district, a great part of the lumber of excellent quality. The more sterile and broken mountainous country, east and west, embracing the mineral lands of the State, is covered with dense forests of black and red oaks, the smooth hickory, sparsely intermixed with scrub pines. In the more elevated ranges, the mountain chestnut oaks, and the chestnut tree, prevail, the latter rapidly dying out. The numerous fertile valleys are har- boring fine woods, composed of trees delighting in a richer soil. The third and most northern sylvan region of the State begins with the limestone formation of the Tennessee valley. Species of the woody vegetation, characteristic of the lower latitudes, are no more seen, or when met with, as dwarfed stragglers. The maples, the tall hickories, the stately elms, walnuts, wild cherry, hackberries, nettle trees, with shady groves of beach, make up the forest growth, bearing the same character as the forest flora of the western declivity of the Appalacian Mountains, south of the Ohio river. 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