FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

BY THE SOURCES OF THE IRAWADI
January '95-jANUARY '96

I'rince Henri and his Companions, MM. Roux and liriftaud.

FROM
TONKIN TO INDIA

BY THE SOURCES OF THE IRAWADI

Januar\' "qs-Januarv "96

PRINCE HENRI D'ORLEANS

TRANSLATED I!Y HAM LEY BENT, M.A.
ILLUSTRATED BY G. VUILLIER

^f^^^'^;,":^^.

LI5SOU TVI*ES

NEW YORK
DODD, MEAD, & COMPANY

189S

MAI' AND GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX

E M I L K R O U X

e:nseu;ni-: de vaisseau

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I.— HANOI TO MONGTSE

My Companions — Plan of Travel — Death of M. de Grandmaison — M. Briffaud — At Hanoi —
Final Preparations — Our Men — Ascent of the Red River by Steamer — \'en-Tay — Laokay —
By Junk to Mahao — First Difficulties with the Chinese — On to Mongtse — Stay at the Con-
sulate— Situation of the Missionaries^We organise the Caravan — A Walk in the Town —
The Market — General Ma — Customs Officials — Life of the Europeans at Mongtse — Climate
— The Plague — Food Resources ........

CHAPTER n.— FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

Departure from Mongtse — Descent to Manhao — Cross the Red River — Mafou F'ears — Explora-
tion— On the Right Bank ; Ascent — Difficulties with our Men — The Hou-Nis — At Fong-
chen-lin — Hospitality of a Chinese Mandarin — Hydraulic Pestles — The Lintindjous — Hou-
Nis again — By the River Side — District of the Pais — First Appearance of Lolos — New
Natives of the Miaotse Tribe — A Few Words on the Natives of Minnan — Pretty Country
by the River — Isa ; Particulars of — Hou-Ni Adventure — Souto ; Discovery of Lolo MSS. —
Fresh P'acts about the Hou-Nis and the Pais — At Lou-tchou ; Lodge with a Lolo Chief ;
Information concerning the Lolos — Our Followers — Fran9ois — The Urchin — Victims of a
Theft — Our Prisoners — Death of my Horse — Difficult Passage of the La-niou-ho — Renewed
Trouble with the Mafous — More Natives, the Hatous — Passage of the Black River — Fire !
— Muong-le — Halt at Muong-le ; Tidings of i], Pavie — The Market ; Trade Statistics —
Scene among the Mafous — On the Road again ; a Hailstorm, and its Effects — Worship of
the Wood Deity — In the Basin of the Mekong — Forest Bivouac — 500th Kilometre — Chantzeu
and his Steed — Pretty Scenery — Arrival at Ssumao ...... 35

CHAPTER HI.— SSUMAO TO TALI

Stay at Ssumao — Civility of the Mandarin — Troubles with our Men — We start for the West —
Mules Stolen — Among the Pais — The Mekong — The Lochais — Dayakeu — Theft of Roux's
Baggage — Disappearance of Nam — Lolo Dances — Roux's Digression on the Mekong Right
Bank — Crossing of the Se-kiang — The Pou Mas — Linguen, a Pretty Valley — Near the
Salwen Basin — Stop at Mienning — Ruse of our Followers — The Makotou Stabbed —
Chinese Character — Mong-Ma — Dismissal of Frangois — A Mutiny Averted — Vunchou —
Elephants — Chunning-Fou — Bridge over the Mekong — -Valley of the Vang-pi — Plain of
Meng-hua-ting — Lake of Tali (Er'hai) — .\rrival at Tali-Fou . . . . S4

CONTENTS

CHAPTER IV.— TALI-FOU

Father Leguilcher — Hislorj- of Tali — Francis Garnier^Murder of Margary — Mussulman War —
Persecution of Christians — Our Relations with the Mandarins — Trade — The Minchias —
Environs of Tali — The Lake — Chinese Superstition ...... 12S

CHAPTER v.— FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

Caravan Reconstituted — Joseph — Departure from Tali — Fong-Vu — Cross the Vang-pi — Salt
Works at Tien-eul-tsin — Dread of the " Barbarians " — Bridge over the Mekong — Fey-long-
kiao — Strange Gods — Lao ; Extreme Chinese Village — \'alley Tangle — The Salwen — A
Friendly Toussou — His Office — Between the two Rivers — The "Gate of the Tiger" — Sub-
terranean Cavern — Lissou Tallies — The Mekong again — Cord Bridge at Piao-tsen — New
Vear's Trees — Tono Monstrosities — A Thief Forestalled — Lamasjens — Successful Robbery ;
an Unfortunate Loss — Native Dance — Lamasjen and Lissou Customs — A \"illage Esmeralda
— Administration — False Alarms — In-Chouan ; Ruined Village — Side Expedition to Teki —
Explanation of Wild Loutses — Toti — Expected Attack — On Guard — Cross-Bows and
Poisoned Arrows — Deities at Fong-Chouan ; Joseph as Cicerone — Curious Emblems —
Dift'erent Names of the Salwen — First Mention of the Kiou-Kiang — Loutses and their
Prisoners — With Dance and Song — To the Spirit of the Earth — Thibetan Tents Sighted —
— Town of Hsiao-Ouisi — Father Tintet — Trials of the Missionaries — News from Tali — Full
Stop on the Right Bank — We recross the Mekong at Halo — Hopatie Fete — Caravan
Divided — Lamaserai of Kampou — Description — Points of .Similarity between Roman
Catholicism and Thibetan Buddhism — Yetche : its Ruler and People — The Mossos — Their
History, Customs, and Method of Writing — Visit to the King — Mosso equivalent for Bell,
Book, and Candle — Arrival at Tsekou — Retrospect ...... 143

CHAPTER VI.— SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

labours of the Missionaries — Honest Socialism — Persecution of Christians — Population of
Tsekou — Cattle-rearing — Industries — Hunting — Fauna — Flora — Thibetans — Their Religious
Beliefs — Lamaserais — Customs — Superstitions — Fables — Songs — Return of Roux from
Atentse ...........

CHAPTER VII.— TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

Choice of Homeward Route — Caravan Re-formed — Start in the Mekong Valley — Fears at
Landjre — Early Obstacles — Francis Gamier Peak — N'alley of the Salwen — Loutses and
Kioutses — Tionra : Crossing the Salwen — Relations with the Lamaserai of Tchamoutong —
Mules Abandoned — On Foot — Tamalou — In the Basin of the Irawadi — The Kiou-Kiang —
The Kioutses — .-^t Toulong — Difficulties of Recruiting and Revictuatling — Mosquitoes on
the Banks of the River — Rock Climbing — Deidoum — Aspect of the Kiou-Kiang \alley—
Our Men — Gold-Washing — News of a Large River and a Plain — The Du-tchu-mu —
Perilous Position — Saved — Leeches — The Big River ; Telo and Dublu — On all sides
Mountains — Painful Torrent March — Death of "Diamai" — Duma — Apon Explained —
Equatorial Scenery — A Large \'illage — Beside the Nam Tsan — Fish-Dam — A New Race —
Pandam — No Salt — Melekeu — People of Moam (Khaniti) — One more Col — Village Fete^
The Plain ........... 244

CONTENTS

CHAPTER VIII.-KHAMTI TO INDIA

FAGR

Enter the Plain of Khaniti — Blackmailing at Tsaukan — Passage of the Nam-Kiou — Khamti
(Padao) — Interviews with the King's Son ; with the King — English Influence — Account of
the Khamti Thais — Pagodas — Panlian — Carrier Difficulties — Departure — Again in the
Mountains — Vexatious Delays — Desertion of Porters — Critical Position — Fever — Three
Columns — Roux falls in Rear — Pass to India — Death of an old Christian — Short Commons
— Two more Men left behind — We abandon Tent and Baggage — Hunger — F"irst A'illage —
Mishmis — Revictualling the Stragglers — Singphos — The Way Lost — Plain of Assam — Bishi ;
Good Treatment — Details concerning Village — Roux Rejoins — Easy Progress — Elephants —
Reception by a Singpho Chief — The Brahmaputra — Sadiya — Cordial Welcome from the
English Agent — Position at Sadiya ; Native Population — Tea Plantations — Method of
Work — En route for Calcutta — Descent of the Brahmaputra — Historical Reflections on
India ; Dupleix .......... 307

APPENDIX A . . . . . . . . . . .361

APPENDI.\ B . . . . . . . . . . .418

■GENERAL INDEX .......... 461

ILLUSTRATIONS

Prince Henri, MM. Roux,and Briffaud Frontispiece

On the Banks of the Red River .

I

Nam

5

At Manhao

13

Old Hou-Ni Woman ....

14

Young Hou-Ni Woman

15

Lolo Woman at Mongtse .

16

Chinese working rude Crane

22

Near the Market-place, Mongtse

25

Poula Women, Mongtse

27

Group of Inhabitants, Mongtse .

29

A Street in Mongtse ....

33

Inn between Mongtse and Manhao

37

On the Red River ....

39

Chinese Girl before her House .

44

A Yao

47

Harrower, Miaotse Tribe .

5°

Woodland Path

53

A Hou-Ni

57

Lolo Woman

62

Woman at Ngapa ....

64

Feeding the Prisoner ....

6S

Hatous

69

Passage of the Lysiang-Kiang, or Black Ri\ e

r 71

Francois ......

78

Halt of our Men ....

So

Street in Ssumao ....

S5

Pagoda in Ssumao ....

86

White Rocks in Valley-

89

Embarkation of Mules at Notcha Tian-pi

96

A Lochai

98

Roux at Work

103

Raft on the Se-kiang ....

106

Little Pagoda on Hill

loS

Carriers met on the Road .

119

On the Banks of the Siao-kiang, or Yang-pi

Pagoda Khou-an-yn-Miao .

Father Leguilcher

The Pet .

Street in Tali-Fou

Tali-Fou Woman

Lake Er-hai

Main Gate, Tali-Fou

Some of our Escort .

Hanging Bridge over the Yang-pi

Briffaud on the Liana Bridge

Lissou Woman .

Attachment of Cord Bridge at Piao-tsen

Mode of Crossing on a Single-line Bridge

"Eagle Beak"

Native Designs on Door Lintel .
" There was nothing for it but to wade"
Torrent Bed near Teki
Lissous at Lameti ....
Father Soulie .....
Passing a Mule over the Mekong at Tsedjrong
Mission Buildings, Tsekou .
Father Dubernard
A Tsekou Christian .
Another Tsekou Christian .
Christian ^^"omen, Tsekou .
•\ Thibetan of Tsekou
Girl from Tsarong
Torrent Scene, 13th September
An Obo ....
Francis Gamier Peak
Kioutse Types .
Loutse Types
Bamboo Bridge over Torrent, Valley of the
Kiou-Kiang ......

PAGE
122
123
128
132

136
139
142
144
149
157

171
172
176
185
187
190
196
218
219
220
221
224
228

231
236

243
253
255
257
260
262

274

ILLUSTRATIONS

"Down with a Crash into the foaming
Water ■' .

Midday Halt

Beside the Du-tchu-mu
A Kioutse of Duma ....
The Reunnam .....
SHppery Footing — Brink of the Nam T.sani
Idiot Woman .....
Passing the Torrent of the Kiou-Kiang
On the Nam-Kiou ....
The King's Son and his Escort at Khaniti
Poulanghing, our Guide from Khaniti .

'AGt

•

PAGE

ReHgious Monuments at Panlian

. 326

277

lifting over the Nam-Lang

33'

282

I-ord on the Nam-Dihing .

345

287

Chief at Bishi .

346

293

Singphos .

349

29s

Singpho Woman

35°

299

Thibetan DwelHng

357

302

Mosso Manuscript No. i

448, 450

306

Mosso Manuscript No. 2

452, 454

310

Fragment of a Mosso Manuscript

• 456

313

Lolo Signs with their Meanings .

• 457

325

Specimen of Lolo Manuscri

pt .

457

-J^Jfc^Sf

/,

(S^**'^

'-^^

«"7^

On the Banks of the Red River.

CHAPTER I

HANOI TO MONGTSE

My Companions — Plan of Travel — Death of M. de Grandmaison — M. Briffaud — At
Hanoi — -Final Preparations — Our Men — Ascent of the Red River by Steamer —
Yen-Tay — Laokay — By Junk to Manhao — First Difficulties with the Chinese —
On to Mongtse — Stay at the Consulate — Situation of the Missionaries — We organise
the Caravan — A Walk in the Town — The Market — General Ma — Customs Officials —
Life of the Europeans at Mongtse — Climate — The Plague — Food Resources.

Ox the 13th of September 1894 M. de Grandmaison and
I, having just returned from traveUing in Madagascar, picked
up M. Roux at Aden, where he had arrived direct from
France.

Although his duties as a naval lieutenant had hitherto
prevented our personal acquaintance, a correspondence of several

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

years had given me an insight into the character and sterhng
worth of my future comrade, and we were in complete accord both
as to the end to be achieved and the means for its attainment.
As soon as I expressed my intention of starting on this fresh
voyage of discovery, Roux at once decided to apply for leave
of absence to accompany me. This was granted by the Minister
of Marine for one year, and when we now met for the first
time it was as old friends.

Thus it came about that we three found ourselves, full of
youth and high spirits, fired with the same enterprise and zeal
for our country, chatting over our maps on board the Saghalien,
eastward bound.

My original idea had been to complete my knowledge of
French Indo-China, and especially the mountainous districts of
Annam. But these were now almost familiar. The network of
such recent journeys as those of the Pavie Mission, of MM.
Bonnin, Grill, and Odenthal, and the prospective one of
Lieutenant Debay, left but small tracts on the map to be traversed.
We turned our eyes farther north, where lay the hitherto
unknown course of the Mekong in China. We felt that the
work initiated by Lagree and Francis Garnier ought to be
continued by Frenchmen. Moreover, our explorations in China
outside our own possessions would enable us to gather informa-
tion that should be of profit to the peaceful commercial expansion
of our colonies. Once up there, it would be idle to retrace our
steps. When we should have ascended the valley of the Mekong
as far as the point where the French missionaries had established
themselves on the Thibetan-Chinese frontier, we should only have
to turn to the left and reach India. Map travel is ever easy.
The idea of a return through absolutely new countries took my

HANOI TO MONGTSE

companions' fancy ; the proposal was carried unanimously, and
our plan was made.

After a month or so in Cochin China and Cambodia, in
the provinces of Battambang and Angkor, and in Annam, we
were to make Tonkin our base of departure. Skirting the
northern or Chinese boundary of Tonkin and the Laotian States,
we would endeavour to strike the IVIekong at the point where
it enters Indo-China — that is to say, not far from where Garnier
quitted it. Thence we should follow the valley of the river,
keeping as near as possible to its stream in order to determine
its undefined course in China. Our highest croal was to be

o o

Tsekou on the frontier of Thibet. Above Tsekou the Mekong
is known through the labours of missionaries. We should halt
at Tali Fou, the chief western mart of Yunnan. And for our
homeward route we would make the attempt to march due
west.

Such were the general outlines of our journey. For an
undertaking of this magnitude all available subsidiary chances
should be assured. One important factor was uncertain, — time.
Roux had only a year's leave ; and as this would not suffice,
it was imperative that he should be "seconded" for colonial
service of indefinite duration. Given this, and resolution, there
seemed to be good hope of ultimate success.

But on our subsequent arrival at the rendezvous at Tonkin,
in the end of December, sad news awaited us. M. de Grand-
maison, who had gone for a week to Hong-Kong whilst
we were visiting Hue, was fated never to rejoin us. He had
succumbed to a sudden illness. Death, in thus cutting off our
comrade, had taken heavy toll of us at the outset. I cannot
refrain from rendering brief homage here to the memory of his

3

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

intrepid spirit, who, in the flower of youth, with name and
fortune, was willing to throw in his lot with mine, in the hope
that he might perhaps some day return to do good work for
our colonies.

The void caused by this event only served to bind us who
survived more closely to each other and to our task. Roux
having at this time received the sanction for his colonial transfer,
we two resolved to carry out the original project of the three,
and set about our preparations in earnest.

Whilst he proceeded to Hong-Kong to perform the sad duty
of embarking the body of M. de Grandmaison, and to consult
with M. Desgodins, the well-known missionary of Thibet, besides
making various purchases, I remained at Hanoi adjusting baggage
and encragfinor followers.

During these preliminaries a providential accession was made
to our little band in the person of M. Briffaud, one of the older
inhabitants of the colony, who had passed eleven years in Tonkin.
He was on the point of returning to France, but being a pioneer
at heart was attracted by our enterprise, and asked to be allowed
to join us as a volunteer. I recalled the instance of Father
Ddd^kens, who, si.x years before, on his way home to Belgium,
elected to make a detour in our company. And a detour it
proved, for it lasted a year, and traversed Central Asia
and Thibet. But, like Father Ddd^kens, Briffaud also was
gifted with the sacred fire ; he was inured to the hardships of
travel, and possessed experience, health, and a cheerful disposition.
These were more than enough to ensure him a hearty reception
as one of ourselves.

On the morning of 26th January 1895 we set out from Hanoi
on board the Yiiniian. Besides our three selves, our party

4

HANOI TO MONGTSE

consisted of four. The first was a little Annamite, who had
been with me before. On the present occasion he did not go
far with us ; nor did I subsequently regret him : he would never
have stood the sort of work we had to encounter. At Yen-Tay
he left us sick. The second, Sao, had also previously accompanied
me to Bangkok. He was large and angular, of independent temper,
and a bit of a grumbler, but
withal a safe shot, a sure
hunter, and proved himself
afterwards eminently practi-
cal in an emergency. Sao
spoke little, and testified his
approbation or derision by a
silent smile, which displayed
two rows of beautiful black
teeth. "Much stupid" was
his contemptuous expression
for anyone who did not meet
with his approval. The very
reverse of Sao was Nam, or
the Namoi as they called Cy^^'J

him. He was our cook ; a
dirty, shrinking, humble, little
old thing, who, inasmuch as
he was worthy and longsuffering, soon became the butt of the
party, and though incessantly chaffed always maintained his good-
humour. Poor simple soul. Nam trotted on from country' to
country, alike unmoved by change of scene or people, with never
a question as to whence he came or whither he went, but preparing
our food throughout with conscientious regularity. Only when

5

oK

Nam.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

tobacco ran short did Nam begin to be unhappy : then, indeed,
the situation became serious to him. Nothing was more char-
acteristic of our chef than his engagement. One day at Saigon,
we were seeking a cook before leaving for Annam. It was ten
o'clock ; we started at noon. Someone brought Nam to us.
"Are you willing to come?" — "Yes; I will be ready at four."
"That won't do; we are off in two hours." — "All the same;
I come back." And so, hired at the outset for only a few weeks,
the Saigonnese was attached for many a long month to our retinue.
A lofty principle enlightened the breast of this primitive Asiatic,
and explained his conduct. Nam was a widower, with three
children — three little gnaos whom he adored, and for whose sake
he would walk far and work hard to bring back money.

Besides our Annamites (the boys rarely gave their names,
and were known by their numbers, "Five," "Six," "Three," etc.),
we had with us a Chinese, big and bony, with an oily yellow
face, evil, treacherous, and hateful. This was our interpreter,
Francois. He spoke French well, and was furnished with good
credentials from officers of the ships on which he had been a cook,
as well as from the mines of Hong-Hay, where he had been
employed. I found him at Langson, and engaged him at once ;
for it is difficult to meet with an interpreter in Tonkin who can
speak the Chinese of Yunnan, which is the tongue of Chang-Hay,
the pure dialect of the mandarins. In the districts we were about
to pass, Cantonnese would be of no use. Although I had written
two months beforehand to Tonkin to secure an interpreter, only
one could be shown to me, and he smoked opium so heavily, and
demanded such exorbitant pay, and a chair to travel in, that we
deemed ourselves lucky to secure Francois, despite his looks.

We had a great amount of baggage, and were fortunate in

HANOI TO MONGTSE

having the assistance of M. d'Abbadie to escape paying excessive
dues. We divided it into two parts — one to take with us, and the
other to be sent from Mongtse straight to TaH, as a reserve.
In the beHef that our experience may be of use to future travellers,
a list of the contents of the packages will be found in the Appendix.

We reached Yen-Tay on the 29th January, after a pleasant
passage under the escort of two friends. I found it much changed
since 1890. The large straw huts had been replaced by stone
barracks, some o-ood houses had been built, and a small club
erected. I took advantage of our halt to visit the coal pits
belonging to M. d'Abbadie, about a mile above Yen-Tay ; the
workings extend on either side of the river as far as Tray-Hutt.
The coal is gaseous, yielding 20 or 30 per cent, of volatile matter,
compared with 10 to 15 per cent, in that of Hong-Hay. Traces of
petroleum have been found in the neighbourhood, and an engineer
is about to take out a concession for graphite.

After a stay of two days we went on board the Bahoa, a
launch of only a few feet draught. The water was falling, and
as this was probably her last trip for the season we arrived only
just in time. We took leave of our friends and of the officers
who had given us so cordial a reception. From henceforth we
should not look upon the tricolor again for a long time, and here
we left behind the limits of civilisation to enter upon the freedom
of travel. We were eager to get forward, and I was impatient
until I should find myself astride a nag, with a pipe in my
mouth, seeing things which others had not seen, in strange
countries, where the interest of the day cloaked the uncertainty
of the morrow.

The ascent of this part of the Red River was not as rapid
as we could have desired ; we were continually running aground

7

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

upon sandbanks. I could not but admire the address with
which our crew of twelve Annamites sprang into the stream
and laid out hawsers ahead to haul upon. It took us some-
times five or six hours to gain about a hundred yards. During
these checks I employed myself in making washings of the sand
of the river, findinfj in it numerous small ofarnets.

Owing to this lowness of the water our transit occupied five
days between Yen-Tay and Laokay. The latter little town had
not altered. Its houses and huts, grouped on the left bank of
the Song-Coi, are separated by an affluent of the river, called
the Nam-Ti, from the Chinese village of Song-Phong, a regular
haunt of pirates and evil-looking gallows-birds. Song-Phong is
flanked by a range of hills forming the frontier. The crests
dominate the slopes of our side, and are Chinese, capped by our
neighbours with a series of forts. On the right bank stood the
barrack of Coklen, a quaint building of many roofs placed one
above the other like canisters.

At Laokay we received the hospitality of the river agent,
M. Dupont, who had been so obliging as to purchase horses
lor us, and to write to Mongtse for mules. From him we ob-
tained some information about the place. Commerce has scarcely
made any advance for several years. The opium farm has been
abolished, but the monopoly of the drug with China has been
given to an individual, who encumbers the sale with a lo per
cent, profit for himself. Similarly, the pacification of the district
is at a standstill. Five years ago one could travel round
Laokay with more security than now. Fresh bands had over-
run the province. Colonel Pennequin had driven them back into
the province of Tulong, half of which belongs to us. The
Chinese, objecting to their neighbourhood, requested us to relieve

8

HANOI TO MONGTSE

them of their presence, and, at the intercession of the Tsung-li-
Yamen, our troops received orders to dislodge the pirates from
the whole of Tulong. Those who troubled us no further now
returned into our territory ; to counterbalance which, and by
way of showing their obligation for our good offices, we had the
satisfaction of seeing more than one hundred and fifty Chinese
regulars transfer themselves to our enemies. Actually, upon the
right bank a band of more than three hundred might be counted.
Armed junks constantly patrol the river to guard the navigation.
But our troops are tired out : there are not enough of them.

During our stay at Laokay we took part in a hunt which was
as curious as it was unexpected. Whilst at breakfast with M.
Dupont we saw a sudden stir at the water-side, people running
down to the river, and boats casting off as hard as they could.
Out we rushed : and here was the cause of all this hurly ; a
stag, which had innocently descended to the brink, had been
viewed and headed back by some soldiers on the right bank.
The entire population turned out in pursuit ; the waters were
churned by a struggling crowd of junks, pirogues or dug-outs,
and human beings, all making chase down stream. A light
tricolor on the head of the quarry alone was wanting to make
the game resemble a 14th July water - frolic. The poor beast
did not know which way to turn ; it managed to escape a blow
from a boat-hook, which only wounded it ; it was but to prolong
the agony, for some swimmers awaiting it lower down grappled
with and finished it. Then came the question as to who was
to eat it : every boatman, with a storm of oaths and protesta-
tions, claimed it as his own. In the midst of these awakened
appetites one felt inclined to pity the animal; but then, "que
diable aussi allait-il faire en cette galere .'' "

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

At Laokay we left the steamer. From here we were to
proceed in a junk retained for us by M. Dupont. But the
boatmen declared, not without reason, that two junks with sixteen
men were necessary for such heavy cargoes over some of the
rapids. So we had to wait another day and a second junk, and
twenty-four hours were cut to waste in this our first encounter
with the Chinese. I warned my companions that they would
have to lay in a stock of patience before dealing with the
Celestial. They soon learned the justice of my remarks.

The mandarin of Song - Phong sent us his card, with a
demand that we should pass the custom - house and submit our
passports to his scrutiny ; adding that he would then furnish us
with a guard of soldiers. Our answer was the same to both
demand and offer : we were in French waters just as much as
Chinese, and wanted nothing.

The morning of the 7th February saw us under way on two
junks, each about 80 feet long ; the crews were ranged fore and
aft, the rudder was formed of large spliced spars, and the waist of
the vessel was covered in with hatches. Poling was our chief mode
of progression ; and this the men performed adroitly and in time.
Whenever it served we took advantage of the wind. A husje rect-
angular sail was hoisted upon a couple of masts, stepped in the
shape of an inverted V, to catch the least breeze, for which the
men continually whistled. We were told that, dependent on its
being favourable or the reverse, the voyage would occupy three
days or a fortnight.

yEolus was happily propitious, and we sailed along at a fair

pace. The crew was composed for the most part of hybrid Chinese

or Mann mountaineers, neighbours of the Thos, and wearing the

Chinese pigtail and blouse. I used to chat with them of an evening

10

HANOI TO MONGTSE

when the boat was tied up for the night. They told me how,
away in the interior, beyond Longpo, the inhabitants were hairy,
and of others who had little tails, and sat upon seats adapted to
their conformation. I had already heard a similar distinction attri-
buted to the Mois. The conversation drifted into legends, and I
inquired if they knew the Chinese story of a country where there
were only women. They replied in the affirmative, and added that
it was an island in the midst of a lake which none might cross, for
the waters of it were so light that a feather cast on the surface
would not float. "And that is why," said they, "we have never
landed on the woman's realm."

A laughter-loving lot, these boatmen also were hard workers.
Although less strong than when I had descended the river at high
flood, the rapids still were numerous ; and it was necessary at each
for the double crews to pass the junks through singly — a tedious
operation. The features of the country were monotonous ; valleys
enclosed by hills, sparse villages. We saw rather more on the after-
noon of the loth February, some days after leaving Laokay. In
one bend of the river we -discovered a religious monument in the
shape of a rectangular column with a niche at its base. Hard by
was a small town of bamboo houses, and others white in a setting
of large red-blossomed trees. The name of the place was Manhao.
Down by the river lay a number of junks, with their grove of
A-shaped masts, flying a little flame-like flag or sometimes a cock's
tail. On the opposite or right shore appeared a hamlet of thatched
one-storey houses, reached by a terrace of stone steps, shaded with
fine trees. The site of this place, Lao-Minchang, was fresh and
picturesque.

Our men were very pleased with themselves. They had not

told us that we were approaching the end of our stage, but kept it

1 1

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

as a surprise. They now offered thanks to their gods for a pros-
perous voyage by burning strings of crackers. And indeed we had
been lucky. We learned later in a letter from M. Dupont that a
band of pirates had actually set out with the intention of capturing
us and holding us to ransom. They had even provided themselves
with grenades to throw into the junks. We owed our safety to our
speed.

If we had enjoyed quick progress by water, in revenge as soon
as we set foot on land we made acquaintance with those inter-
minable delays which are due to the apathy or the ill-will of the
yellow race. We wished simply to pass through Manhao and to
push on to Mongtse, where we should be able to engage muleteers,
organise our caravan, and forward our reserve baggage to Tali.
It took us four days before we could even start. Our first diffi-
culties were with the custom-house. The coolies refused to dis-
embark the loads without authority. The officials insisted on
a declaration, which I refused, as our passports for the Yurman
dispensed with it. I invited them to come on board : they would
not be at the trouble. I threatened them with all the thunders of
their chief at Mongtse : they did not seem perturbed. Nor was it
until after long hours of discussion that I obtained a permit which
was our due, and which they might have issued at once.

We put up at the house of a merchant who spoke French and
had been M. Bleton's interpreter. He was a small wizen creature,
whose emaciated features and shrunken semi-transparent hands at
once told the tale of the baneful opium passion which enslaved him.
Nevertheless he rendered us service in settling money matters. We
had to arrange for the transport of ourselves and baggage to
Mongtse. Our ponies had certainly arrived from Laokay, and
proved sturdy and clever ; but we now learned that the mules which

12

HANOI TO MONGTSE

article of contraband at the Manhao custom-house ; the dues are
collected at Mongtse. The rock-salt comes down in small boats
from the mines situated four or five days farther up the river.

Whilst at Manhao the market was held, which every week
attracts the villagers of the surrounding country. The scene was
one of great
animation ; and
we were able to
get a glance at
many of the hill
folk, with their
different dresses
and dialects,
with whom we
were later to
come in contact.
Here was a
Poula woman,
wearing, Chinese
fashion, a mantle
with green and
red trimming ;
upon her fore-
head was bound a
kerchief studded

Young Hou-Ni Woman.

with little silver knobs, and adorned on either side with cowries and
red worsted tassels, behind which fell two lappets, embroidered
horizontally with green and red. The same colours and dress
are to be found among the nomads of Thibet. The Poula lady
had a bronzed oval face, and small features, except the lower lip

15

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

and the chin. A more original head-dress was one which we
saw among the Lintindjou women. On a Httle knot of hair was
perched a plaited straw circlet, like those worn by the Annamite
sharpshooters, from which hung a fringe with white tassels. The

costume was
composed of a
jacket, fastened
with two silver
clasps, black
trousers, and
linen bands tied
round the ankles.
These natives
seemed very shy.
One woman, ol
whom I took a
snap - shot, had
a vivacious
little face, with
strongly protrud-
ing forehead,
and eyes that
7 ('A were scarcely at

all oblique. She
was clearly dis-
tinguishable from both Chinese and Annamite. Some Hou-Ni
women were also pointed out to us, clothed in tunics which
descended to the knee, and wearing on their breasts a round
silver plate, with designs of crabs and scorpions.

This first glimpse of the native population only increased our

i6

/. 'J-" ^

Lolo Woman at Monglse.

HANOI TO MONGTSE

desire to see more of them, by taking a different route to
Ssumao on the ri^ht bank of the Red River. To the questions
we put at Manhao, the reply was that there was no road but
that followed by the caravans through Mongtse and Yuen-chiang.
The telegraph clerk, however, mentioned to me that he had
heard of a path on the right bank, though a very bad one.
Here, at any rate, was a clue. Roux and I discovered this path
on foot, saw that it continued in the distance, and was fit for
mules. While reconnoitring, we passed through the pretty little
village of Lao-Manhao, opposite which was a wood of mimosa,
tamarisk, and other trees, covering the base of the hill. I have
rarely found a spot of equal fragrance, and interest for the
ornithologist ; small birds in great variety fluttered in it, and I
secured some good specimens.

The mode of employing our time in Manhao was pleasant
enough, but it was not getting on at all. So that it was with
pleasure that we saw one part of our effects start under the care
of M. Dupont's factor, who was to convoy them as far as
Mongtse. We made a bargain for some mules, at the rate of
nine "tens" apiece to Mongtse, which was one "ten" more than
the ordinary tariff. They carried thirty-eight of our packages.

On the 14th (February) eighteen pack animals, sent to us from

Mongtse, came in. We were now able to depart. At the last

moment another delay arose in the disposal of the loads, which

were too heavy. The Yiinnan method of loading the animals

was to place a pad upon a wooden saddle, with two side pieces

fitting close to the shoulder. There was no girth ; the' saddle

was simply kept in position by breast and crupper straps. Either

flap had on the outer side a small wooden peg, sole support

of a light and capacious frame, to which the baggage was secured
B 17

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

by leather thongs. The advantage of the system is that the
harness is independent of the pack, and one can off-saddle for
the night without disturbing anything. The ease with which one
can disencumber the mule facilitates his passage in dangerous
spots. Indeed, being thus able to rid himself of his burden, he
often availed himself of this avoidance of accident on his own
account. When the weights are even, as may easily be managed
with tea or cotton for cargo, the mule can carry much without
suffering. But with mixed lots, such as ours, the system of
loading caused sores. The treatment of the mules consequently
called for great care. The averaore load was from 120 lbs. to
140 lbs., half on either side. Those that gave most trouble were
the chests containing money. Each one in itself was 1 20 lbs.
They had therefore to be distributed. We were carrying to
Mongtse piastres to exchange there against Chinese ingots, and,
as robbers were numerous, they required watching.

In the afternoon we were at last ready, and the real journey
commenced. Being in high spirits at the prospect of active
employment, everything seemed interesting and picturesque.
Things struck us which soon we should not heed : the boys upon
their ponies, odd -looking figures in their half- European half-
Annamite get-up ; the interpreter, perched high on a heap of
rugs, with a dirty squash hat on his head, and his toes thrust
into loops of straw for stirrups. Each of us was no doubt a
caricature to his neighbour.

The first part of our route was a steady ascent, from 510 feet

to 6,150 feet. The mules climbed sturdily in single file, urged

by the shouts and imprecations of the drivers. You can't travel

in Yunnan without constant " ma/c'piozis." The leader bore our

red flag, with my name on it in Chinese characters. It was the

18

HANOI TO MONGTSE

same which had already seen service with me from Koulja to
Tonkin, five years before. Who knew what countries it was to
behold this time !

It took us two days and a half to reach Mongtse, sleeping
each night in the corners of the inn stables. On the way we
passed a strange series of isolated hills, like detached sugar-
loaves, and christened them the Cone Chain. " At their base we
came across many funnel-shaped depressions, which in semblance
might have been the moulds in which the cones had been cast.
The only vegetation was scanty grass but ill covering the grey
stones. Although only at an altitude of 6,175 feet, we received
the impression of high summits. A closer view revealed that
these mountains could not be attributable to volcanic formation,
as one had first been inclined to believe. They were of grey
limestone, like those of the bay of Along. Traces of coal in the
neighbourhood tended to confirm the idea that the same geological
forces that in Tonkin appear as cliffs here showed themselves in
cones.

After descending from the Cone Chain, a march of varied
elevation brought us to a rocky gap surmounted by a little
pagoda. Before us lay the great plain of Mongtse. For two
hours we continued at a round pace through cultivated fields,
and past the small town of Si-ngan-tso, until we checked our
beasts beneath the walls of Mongtse, in front of a spacious white
building used as the French Consulate, and were received by
MM. Guerin and Mark.

This last-named grentleman bore on his hand the trace of a recent
wound. Some time before, he had been attacked in his house
by six men armed with spears. He defended the door of his room
behind a barrier of chairs, but received a blow from a pike through

19

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

the panel. On the alarm being given his assailants fled, and, it is
needless to add, were still at large.

Having bestowed our belongings in the consulate, we prepared
to remain there a few days. Mongtse was the last town of relative
civilisation which we were likely to see for a long time, and we
had to make final arrangements for both our own caravan and for
the forwarding of our reserve. Here I met an old acquaintance, a
missionary, known before in 1890 at Yiinnan-Sen, and his experience
and advice were of great value in our equipment. The Father at
this period was at loggerheads with the Chinese Government.
Having been charged by Monseigneur Fenouil to establish a mission
station at Mongtse, he had bought a house and signed the agree-
ment with the owner. This done, he sent the title-deeds to the
Taotai for registration. But the latter, instead of returning them,
passed them on to some notables, to whom the property was thus
made over. Our consul vainly demanded restitution. As for the
missionary, he adopted the only mode of retort to the knavery of
the Government, by refusing to budge from the house when once in
it, unless another, on which he had his eye, were offered in its place.
These tricks of the Chinese in the case of the missionaries did not
astonish me : I knew them of old. Our countrymen may deem
themselves fortunate when the vexation is confined to petty annoy-
ances. On the voyage from Aden to Indo-China we had on board
a missionary of Yunnan, who was again bound thither after a visit
to Paris to be healed. This Father Vial had received fourteen
knife stabs, several of his ribs had been broken, and he showed me
the scars of the wounds. I should have liked some sceptic Thomas
to have had the same privilege. When attacked by the myrmidons
of the mandarin. Father Vial owed his life to his single strength of

will alone. He was returning bravely to his post, as if nothing had

20

HANOI TO MONGTSE

happened ; and certainly the satisfaction extracted from the Chinese
Government by the representations of our consul had not been
granted out of any goodwill to the Father. Most of the braves
were banished to another province — a trivial punishment for men
who had no ties. They did indeed select for condemnation one
man — he was already dead from natural causes in prison. As for
the instigator of the outrage, he was of course undisturbed. It was
declared at Pekin that the affair had been exaggerated, and that the
reparation was ample. One cannot help thinking what idea of our
power the Chinese are likely to derive from our acquiescence in
such procedure. After this there is small room for surprise at their
attitude towards our Frontier Delimitation Commission. Already it
had been attacked in the basin of the Black River, and was reported
to be followed by three hundred pirates ostensibly in " the service "
of the mandarin of Yunnan. Whether or no, it is certain that the
Imperial commissioner betook himself to Mongtse, under pretext of
resting from his labours. For ourselves, as travellers, by making
the best of things we might hope to pass through without active
molestation.

First of all we had mules to buy. It was difficult to procure any
at Mongtse, for the Pavie Mission had taken a good many, and the
mandarin himself had just purchased twenty beauties for twelve
taels apiece — fixing his own price. M. Gdrard, a P'renchman in
the Customs, kindly offered to help us, and spent three days in the
mountains among the dirty Miaotses, bringing back fifteen mules
and a promise of seven more in a few days. We paid on an averao-e
thirty taels for each animal. Then there were pack-saddles to get,
straps, and blankets to cover the chattels from rain and the men at
night. The beasts were next roughed, and branded on the shoulder
with an O. Finally came the question of the hire of followers.

21

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

We took seven to begin with. One of them, Li, small, youthful,
and marked with smallpox, looked more of a hillman than Chinese,
though he hailed from the Yangtse. To him was given the command
of the others, with the title of makotou, or leader of the caravan.

His subordinates
were simple mu-
leteers, luafous,
paid at the rate
of seven taels a
month through
him. He re-
ceived more,
would cater for
the men, do the
same work as
they, and act as
farrier and vet.
to the expedi-
tion. In his
latter capacity
he did not omit
to ask for an
advance to pur-
chase drugs.
Some of these

Chinese working riuie Crane.

arrangements had afterwards to be modified, but for the present
our mafous were all smiles and sweetness ; the day after their
engagement they brought us bouquets of jasmine. Loads were
apportioned, saddles adjusted, supplies laid in, and all with the
greatest cheerfulness. The makotou was quick, and did most of

22

HANOI TO MONGTSE

the duties. "If in three days my men don't learn how to work,"
said he, with a significant gesture, " I take a board and touch them
up behind." The Chinese do not look far ahead; the present is
enough for them as long as they are well off. An incident occurred
here which was characteristic. Sao and a Cantonnese lad,
Francois' personal attendant, quarrelled, and the i\nnamite struck
the Chinese with a hatchet. I do not know which was in fault ;
but the interpreter, naturally taking the part of his compatriot,
without referring to us, straightway lodged a formal complaint.
The matter might have become complicated ; so we interposed,
and, putting Sao under temporary arrest, deposited a sum of
money with M. Guerin — one part for the care of the Chinese, and
the other as an indemnity. I may add that the servant, a true
Celestial, preferred the gain to the grievance.

One of the chief difficulties of the traveller in China is that of
money. The coin must be carried in bulk. W'e intrusted our stock
of piastres to three jewellers, who melted them down at the rate of
a thousand a day. A powder thrown into the fused mass caused
the copper to separate, the silver was run into moulds, and we
received it in dainty ingots, pitted with small holes like a sponge,
and inscribed with Chinese characters. We sent a portion of our
meltings on to the care of the missionary at Tall-Fou. There is a
company formed for the transmission of money by post in the
provinces, with insurance against loss by robbery ; but unhappily
this was not in operation between Mongtse and Tali. We were
obliged to take a draft on Yiinnan-Sen, whence the mission would
forward to us. The first banker applied to refused the accommoda-
tion when he knew what was required. An order had been issued
by the Taotai against any aid to Europeans. I recognised once
more the habitual grace of the Chinese authorities. Luckily, another

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

was found whose official fears were not proof against his money
greed, and our remaining specie was transformed into two cheques
of 4,000 and 2,000 taels. We gained by the exchange, as our silver
received a value of 20 per cent, over the capital.

It may be imagined that all these dispositions were not com-
pleted in a day. Before arriving at any result much time was
consumed in arguing, bargaining, and making chang-liang in
Chinese parlance. We turned the intervals to advantage by
examining the town and its environs, and in conversation with
the few European residents.

Mongtse contains about 11,000 inhabitants. The place offers
but little of interest, and is quiet. The people, accustomed to
the going and coming of whites, appeared indifferent to our
proceedings, although the most extravagant reports had been
spread about our arrival. It was said that a king's son (Chinese,
" ichingotian" prince) was coming up to Mongtse with a thousand
armed men. I was used to these legends. Every week on market
day the streets presented an interesting spectacle. At the entrance,
outside the rampart, long strings of carrier oxen stood waiting
behind the straw-wrapped bales of yarn or sheets of tin for the
custom-house examination. Crowds of country folk thronged the
gate, the Poula element predominating. The women of this
race, with round faces sheltered under linen bonnets somewhat
resembling those of the Little Sisters of the Poor, crouched beside
baskets of vegetables. The men wore small open vests and a
blue turban, round which they twisted their pigtails. Here an
old beggar woman chanted her nasal plaint to the accompaniment
of oblong castanets. She was not bewitching, — we were far from
an Esmeralda, — but we threw her a few sapecks. There went by
the tinker, with his professional cry of " Pouko ! Pouko!" At a

24

HANOI TO MONGTSE

little distance squatted some men round a mat, silent for the most
part, but each attentive to what was going on round him, as
shown by the small and glittering eye. Some rustics who had

Poula Women, Mongtse.

made good bargains stopped to gamble away most of their gains
to the Chinese. An umbrella with pink silk fringe came in view,
and at sight of us was hastily and jealously lowered by the
modest charmer. Mongtse and Lingau-Fou are said to be the

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

only two Chinese towns where ladies of rank come out on foot
in this guise. I paused at the stall of a silversmith, and watched
him at work as among the Laos States, his silver plate resting
upon a wax mould fixed to a block, while with mallet and chisel
he shaped his trinkets. A murmur behind us apprised us of the
approach of some notable, and we drew ourselves up to let the
procession pass. First advanced matchlock men, fairly well set
up, with flags and a gong beater at their head. In rear of them
were borne wooden placards, banners representing the Imperial
dragon, and a huge screen in shape like a leaf Then followed
six boys in long red and green skirts, with caps of the same
colours, and a big gold sword at the shoulder. Next came men
armed with tridents, and two others blowing trumpets — the long
copper trumpet well known amongst the pirates of Tonkin for its
rallying note. More long-robed children, extinguished under
pointed astrologers' hats, and shouting for all they were worth.
Then civil dignitaries ; men of letters with crystal buttons ;
mounted mandarins in silk robes brocaded with oold, and horse-
tails waving from their hats. And last of all, the main figure,
lolling in his heavy green litter, was borne the tchenta)\ or military
chief

This General Ma was a good friend to us. In appearance he
was big and corpulent, with an aquiline nose. In faith a Mussul-
man, and well disposed to the French ; in all difficulties between
the missionaries and the authorities he tried to make things
smooth. Following a visit which we paid him, came an invita-
tion to a great feast which lasted fully two hours and a half The
Mussulman cuisine was excellent, and consisted of plates of rice,
potatoes, mutton killed according to the rites and prepared strictly

without pig's fat. For drink we had champagne alternating with

28

HANOI TO MONGTSE

" tchaotiou " (Chinese o.d.v.). We were offered a vintage dating
from 1S70, and brought from the capital. The general insisted
on drinking healths with each of us in turn, without heel-taps.
His children — a large-eyed little girl of an Indian type of face,
and a boy with a fine fur-embroidered cap — came in to see us,
and made the round of the table, bowing- before each guest. Our
host appeared very fond of them, which is common enough in
China ; but he had an exceptionally frank manner towards
foreigners — a disposition I have remarked among Chinese Mussul-
mans very different from that of their Buddhist fellow-countrymen.
The missionaries rarely have to complain of persecution at the
hands of the Houi-houi or the Houe-dzeu, as the disciples of
Mahomet are called in China. So far from attacking the Christians,
they sometimes even support them ; but they never become con-
verts. "You have a God," they say to our priests; "so have we:
we both have a book ; let us be friends."

The general did not speak to us on religion. He came to
see us at the consulate on foot with a small retinue, which for a
mandarin showed a very unusual freedom from formality. He
was interested in our firearms, and inquired their cost ; and
hearing us express some wish, sent us milk and native cigars as
a present. I think if I had never had to do with any Chinese
but Ma I should have formed a different opinion of his com-
patriots.

Besides the consular and missionary staff, we found very
agreeable society at the custom-house. The superintendent was
an American, Mr. Carl, a connection of Sir Robert Hart, and
well qualified to give me interesting commercial statistics. The
greater part of the merchandise is of English origin, and
comes from Canton by Pese. The trade returns give a total

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

of 2,185,200 taels, in which Tonkin unfortunately is only repre-
sented by 313,983 taels. The slowness in the development of
our commerce with China is to be attributed to three chief
causes : —

(i) Our houses do not study the taste or pocket of the natives.

(2) Freight on the Red River is too high. For instance,
wicker chairs at fifty piastres have to pay thirty piastres from
HonCT-Kongr to Manhao.

(3) Salt, which formerly served as a medium of exchange
between Tonkin and Yunnan, can no longer, thanks to a clause
in the Treaty of 1885, be introduced into that province.

We know our errors ; it is for us to remedy them, if we
would profit by the privileged commercial position which Tonkin
gives us on the flank of China. I cannot too strongly insist
on the danger there is of our playing the role of the hare to the
English tortoise. Whilst writing these lines I have before me
the last Report of the Royal Geographical Society, in which is
marked by a dotted line the railway in course of construction
from Mandalay to the frontier of China. The English have 275
miles in a straight line to traverse. We, who from Hanoi to
Laokay have only 135 miles, or htilf as far, — what are we
doing ?

The reader will pardon this digression, and impute it solely
to my desire to attract attention, whenever I have the occasion,
to questions often neglected, and moreover of exceptional gravity
for the future expansion of our trade.

The grounds of the custom-house adjoined those of the
consulate. A house is valued here at from 2,000 to 3,000 taels,
the expense being largely enhanced from the distance which
wood for building has to be brought. Although verandahs are

HANOI TO MONGTSE

common, one need scarcely seek shelter from the sun ; the
climate of Mongtse is splendid ; except in the two rainy months
(June-July, or July-August), it is almost always fine. The plain
is healthy for Europeans. The natives have to fear the plague,

A Street in Mongtse.

which is endemic, and seems to haunt certain localities of Yunnan
without any cause. The sickness generally comes in the summer,
and sometimes claims four thousand or five thousand victims.
First to be attacked are the rats, which may then be seen

^ JO

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

scampering in the streets, jumping and writhing as if mad. Then
comes the turn of the cats. It is as if the poison rose from the
ground, and, mounting, infected in succession all it met. In the
case of human beings the malady shows itself by a swelling of
the glands. The missionaries have successfully employed as a
remedy a strong emetic. Europeans are seldom included in its
ravages.

The food resources are plentiful ; mutton and beef one owes
to the Mussulmans ; and fruit and vegetables, European as well
as native, abound ; strawberries, peaches, apricots, and nuts being
good. There are many pretty walks in the neighbourhood ; in
the mountains you may find silver pheasants and hares, while
the rice - fields of the plain teem with water-fowl and white
herons. The Chinese protect the latter birds ; they say they
carry the souls of the dead to heaven ; and upon their tombs in
their religious designs they give a symbolical significance to the
heron analogous to that which we crive to the dove. There is
something similar among the ancient Egyptians.

Europeans receive two posts a week — one through the custom-
house, the other through the consulate; they come in five days
overland from Laokay via Sinchai.

CHAPTER II

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

Departure from Mongtse — Descent to Manhao — Cross the Red River — Mafou Fears —
Exploration — On the Right Bank ; Ascent — Difficulties with our Men — The Hou-
Nis — At Fong-chen-lin — Hospitality of a Chinese Mandarin — Hydraulic Pestles —
The Liutindjous — Hou-Nis again — By the River Side — District of the Pais — First
Appearance of Lolos — New Natives of the Miaotse Tribe — A Few Words on the
Natives of Yiinnan — Pretty Country by the River — Isa ; Particulars of — Hou-Ni
Adventure — Souto ; Discovery of Lolo MSS. — Fresh Facts about the Hou-Nis and
the Pais — At Lou-tchou ; Lodge with a Lolo Chief; Information concerning the
Lolos — Our Followers — Frangois — The Urchin — Victims of a Theft — Our Prisoners
— Death of my Horse — Difficult Passage of the La-niou-ho — Renewed Trouble
with the Mafous — More Natives, the Hatous — Passage of the Black River — Fire ! —
Muong-le — Halt at Muong-le ; Tidings of M. Pavie — The Market ; Trade Statistics
— Scene among the Mafous — On the Road again ; a Hailstorm, and its Effects —
Worship of the Wood Deity — In the Basin of the Mekong — Forest Bivouac — 500th
Kilometre — Chantzeu and his Steed — Pretty Scenery — Arrival at Ssumao.

We quitted Mongtse finally on the 27th February. What we
did not take with us we left in the care of the consul, to be
despatched by caravan to Yunnan-Sen and Tali. By the same
route we were to receive a chest of a thousand rupees and some
photograph plates which had not yet reached Mongtse.

Our start was the sio^nal for the letting off of crackers and
muskets. All this uproar, which is a conventional attention in
China on the arrival or departure of travellers, was not at all to
the taste of our horses, and caused them to be restive. In a
couple of months you might have fired a field-piece without
making the same worn-out beasts twitch an ear

35

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

The usual road to Ssumao and the West was by way of
Yuenkiang and Ta-lan ; so, when we turned our faces again
towards Manhao, Francois officiously was for setting us right.
But we purposely adopted this slightly longer route, which, though
known, is not marked on the maps. As we retraversed the plain,
strewn with iron-ore, we saw tlocks of grey cranes with black
heads, looking in the distance like peasants at work. With the
approach to the mountains the flora changed ; I found gna-
phalium, asters, pretty pink primroses, and by the side of these
plants of high altitudes some small crimson azaleas such as are
met with on the banks of the Black River. The weather, which
had promised well, suddenly changed, and we were caught in
a storm of hail. At once the songs ceased ; silently we plodded
in Indian file, the horses slipping and falling continually. It was
the beginning of our troubles. I dropped behind, and lost the
way. Rou.x came back and sought me in the dark ; we could
not see where to place our feet, and it was with difficulty and
many tumbles that we at length gained our camp. Rarely had
a cup of tea seemed so refreshing.

The ne.xt day we were back again among the quaint Cone
Hills. Not far from here I noticed in a field a bier covered with
hay and surrounded with thorn branches ; the dead body awaited
transport over the mountain for burial in consecrated ground.
We shared our sleeping quarters that night with a caravan of tin.
At all the inns they feed the animals on chopped straw, so that
the sound of the cutter was going pretty nearly all night. As
the stage had been a short one, we had tasted the charm of
arriving early, and it was pleasant at sundown to get into the
open country far from the din of the caravan and the chatter of
the Chinese. I seated myself on a mound above the path, and

36

4

V

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

watched a group of Poula women laden with wood, the weight
of which was sustained by a linen band across the forehead. On
catching sight of me they hesitated whether to advance, but at
last plucked up heart to pass in a body.

On the I St March, in the morning, we re-entered Manhao, after
a few ordinary experiences by the way. We met two men carrjing

ii,r^-t-

On the Red River.

a corpse by head and heels, slung to a bough, on which a sacrificial
cock was fastened. The cortege, preceded by a man gently
tapping a small gong, disappeared up a narrow defile, and we heard
the receding sob of the gong long after it was lost to view.
Unbelievers these Chinese may be, but they will traverse mountains
for the sake of burvinsj their dead in hallowed ground. At another
place we encountered a minor chief with the usual accompaniment

39

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

of red flags, scarlet robes, blue trousers, and yellow straw hats,

contributing with the bright sunshine in an arid country to a

dazzling and picturesque effect. At Manhao we only stopped for

breakfast, deeming it more prudent not to halt our followers long in

a town, as we were about to attempt the route on the right bank

of the Soncr-Coi, of which Roux and I had found the beoinninsf.

To cross the river we had to put the saddles and loads on small

rafts, and then tried to pass the animals over by swimming.

These, however, did not see it in the same light, despite shouts,

and blows, and volleys of stones from the urchins in the crowd

which had come out to see us. After prolonged struggles and

breaks away, swearing man triumphed over stubborn brute, and by

dint of lifting the intractable ones a hoof at a time on to the raft

we all got over. The makotou proved himself resourceful ; but as

for Francois, he contented himself with playing the part of the fly

on the coach-wheel, and stood by the brink dangling his day's

food — three fishes on a string — and offering useless advice. Our

mafous expressed great surprise when we announced that we

should camp farther on. They did not know the way, — there were

no inns. " What were the tents for, if not to sleep in the open ? "

said we. "How were the beasts to be fed?" — "Carry grain for

them, and three days' supplies for yourselves." Franqois then struck

in : There were pirates on the right bank, and they had long guns.

— " So much the better ; we shall be able to photograph them."

It was clear that our people had not reckoned on this style of

travel, and counted on following main roads and always sleeping

within four walls ; the Annamites, on the other hand, followed us

in silence. The delay at the ferry made it impossible to go far that

night, so we camped on a sandbank by the river, and experienced

the real joy of being independent in the middle of our own troop.

40

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

From here the true work of exploration might be said to begin.
Before us lay the unknown. Perhaps illusion sometimes colours
our impressions. Well, illusion let it be ! I believe in dreams, and
pity those whose sterile minds no impulse ever stirs.

Amongst the latter might be classed our mafous ; they were no
dreamers. Yet, was it imagination that led them to take two
shining sparks in the thicket behind us for living panther's eyes?
We had to fire our guns to reassure them. These fellows began to
see that our journey meant business. On arrival at the camping-
ground one of the mules was missing, having been allowed to
straggle by the way. What was worse, it was one that carried
specie. After two hours' search it was led in ; but these early
troubles disheartened the makotou, who sat himself down and wept,
declaring that he could not do everything by himself We soothed
him with commendation, and he presently forgot his woes in the
consolation of his opium pipe.

He would not perhaps have slept so soundly had he known what
awaited us on the next day — one of the hardest for man and beast
in the whole of this part of the undertaking. A week later we
could not have performed this stage, at least in one piece. It was
uphill all the way and fairly good going, but followed the crests
without deviation. I pitied our animals : the horses struggled
gamely, scrambling up the steepest bits, and every now and then
stopping abruptly to regain their wind. The march seemed
unending ; no sooner had we topped one summit than another rose
before us. Once the track led us through a wood, where we saw
some natives hunting a stag with boar-spears, a dog, and a horn like
a sea-conch. I marvelled at the agility with which they sprang over
the boulders. In the afternoon we passed from the valley of the
Red River into that of one of its tributaries. The hillsides here

41

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

were covered for two-thirds of their height with rice-fields, rising
in resfular terraces, over which water trickled in a series of cascades
that glittered like glass in the sun. The stream was conducted in
canals, whose horizontal lines could be discerned for many miles
following the contour of the hills. This method of irrigation was
quite a work of art, all the embankments being thrown up by
hand and stamped hard by foot. In Madagascar the rice-fields
occupy only the hollows ; here they scaled even the flanks of the
hills, and I could not but refiect on the capabilities which these
peasants might develop in the vast tracts of fertile land unused in
our colonies. Here and there were sparse patches of trees or
scrub, with groups of enormous bamboos and a profusion of varied
ferns. In this damp climate it was not uncommon to start in the
morning in thick mist, which rendered the path so slippery that the
horses could not keep their footing on the shining rock and sodden
grass ; and falls were frequent. The mafous, who shiver at
50' Fahr., grumbled and invented fresh pretexts every day for
shortening the stage. It was now the 3rd of March, and already they
talked of leaving us. The interpreter, of whose sullen disposition
we had also had evidence, joined them and announced that he
would go no farther with us. His conceit was unendurable, and
often made him ridiculous. One day, upon Roux making some
remark on the route, Francois told him there were Chinese maps.

"Yes ; but they are no good," replied my companion.

"You French say that, because we have three thousand words,
and you can't understand them," was the rejoinder.

We were placed in a somewhat awkward predicament ; for we
were dependent on our muleteers, and could neither here nor at
Manhao find others to replace them. We adopted conciliatory
measures, and, by lightening the undoubtedly severe labour of the

42

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

mafous and slightly increasing Francois' pay, tided over the
difficulty. The treaty of peace was cemented by the slaughter of
a fat pig, and we were " Tajen ho ! " (" the great and good ") once
more.

The villages where we usually passed the nights in more or
less discomfort were collections of thatched huts from twenty to
sixty in number, in the best of which we spread our rugs on
wooden bedsteads, and, to my surprise, were not devoured by
fleas. Beyond a few Chinese traders and innkeepers, the popula-
tion was for the most part Poula or Hou-Xi. The approach to
a Hou-Xi village was generally marked by posts to which small
bamboo pegs were suspended, — in one c^ise a quartered cock
transfixed by an arrow, in another a bow ; all of which were
supposed to avert evil spirits. The Hou-Nis of this district
seemed of pure breed and pronounced type ; the men muscular
and dark, with straight noses, small chins, and an expression of
much energy. They wore a loose dark blue jacket with silver
buttons, and nearly all had on the left arm a copper bracelet of
Chinese make. Their hair was plaited in a tail, and often
covered by a horsehair cap. We had heard good reports ot
them as hardy but independent mountaineers, not very amenable
to Chinese supremacy. The costume of the women was a black
turban with folds falling behind or gathered in front into two
horns, with a band across the forehead adorned with silver studs,
sometimes with a cross in the centre, while others bore a disc
of the same metal on the breast. A few had an over-garment
with two lappets a la Robespierre. I had seen Yao women
above Laichau similarly dressed. We constantly met them on
the road, with their baskets on their shoulders fastened to a
sort of yoke on the neck to avoid chafing, and a forehead strap

43

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

to take the weight. Whenever they saw us they turned their
hacks and plunged into the thicket.

At a distance these natives in their monochrome of blue-black
presented a sombre appearance. We photographed a few Hou-
Nis in one of their villages at Ba-kopo. They call themselves
" Hou-Nia, " but scarcely sound the "a." Their women are valued

at from sixteen

to thirty -six

-- " '^ ' ,^ — .<t^, .— — taels, and the

^ ^ rich have two

wives. They
inter their dead,
and mark their
mourning bv a
strip of white
linen on the
head. Their
religion is the
worship of an-
cestors. They
rent the ground
for tillage from
the district of

Kai-hoa, but they have no other impost than this land tax. The
Government gives them a Chinese chief, who resides at Koate ;
and they have also a headman of their own of less importance, to
whom they give the title "tien-ni." Interrogated as to manuscripts,
they replied that they had none of their own and knew no
characters but Chinese. They had a musical instrument, a
three-stringed guitar, from which they get a very soft tone.

44

Chinese (lirl before her House.

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

On the 4th (March) we reached Fong-chen-lin, a small town,
chiefly Chinese, perched on the top of a hill in the midst of
fields of turnips, cabbage, and opium poppies. On our arrival
we experienced difficulty in finding quarters. No one would take
us in. The makotou and Francois were wrangling in altercation,
and our mules, tied to each other, fell to indiscriminate kicking ;
while an inquisitive and jeering Chinese crowd pressed upon us.
The natives held aloof, and it was only after long argument
that we managed to house ourselves in a wretched inn where
everybody was smoking opium. For our own part we preferred
the stable and a straw-shed to the abomination of the common
room. Briffaud, who had been on a tour of discovery, came
back with the news that we were invited to dinner. We
followed him across several courts to the "yamen." A fat
mandarin received us, and forthwith made us share his repast ;
and an excellent meal it was. We were in the house of the
" toussou " (chief). He plied us with questions, and pressed us
to spend the next day with him, offering the inducement of a
stag hunt. We regretted that time did not allow of our accepting
his invitation. During the conversation I was struck by the
humble attitude of Master Francois, who, insolent enough in his
bearing towards us, did not know how to sufficiently abase
himself in the presence of a superior of his own race.

We resumed our journey on the following day with a pleasant
recollection of the chief of Fong-chen-lin, and above all of his
" oeufs farcis." He had agreeably varied our fare, which had
consisted for some time of rice and fowl, fowl and rice, with
only now and then pork and vegetables. We made cakes which
served in fancy for bread ; but in reality they were rice rolled
into a paste and toasted.

45

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

On our way I noted with curiosity the method employed
by the natives to winnow the rice by hydraulic apparatus.

XC

B

A X

A beam of wood is i)ierced by a spindle at A', a trough is
hollowed at A, and the extremity B is the pestle. A stream
of water constantly fills the trough A, tipping the beam till the
trough empties itself and the pestle B falls. The irrigation
canals are much utilised to work these machines. Nam opened
his mouth with astonishment at the inventive genius of the
natives ; the Annamites had never seen them before. I remarked
to him that if this system were employed in his country the
Annamite women would have more spare time, and their deluded
husbands less peace, which he gravely admitted.

To-day's stage brought us to a market where great animation
was manifested in the barter of iron - ore, vegetables, and oil
carried in hollow bamboos, against sugar, silk, drugs, rock-salt
retailed by the Chinese, and European articles. Of course there
was the inevitable gamble of " bacouan " ; and I was urged by
a stout worthy to look through a peep-hole, which was nothing
but a stereoscope surmounted by cymbals, and to try my luck.
I respectfully declined. Here again we noticed among the natives
yet another tribe, hitherto unmet with, whose characteristics were
slight figures, pale complexion, nose straight and prominent,
with thick lips and large straight-set eyes. Their costume too
was peculiar. It consisted of a black tunic gathered in by a
sash, and studded from top to bottom with a double row of
metal buttons. Round the neck was fastened a collar similarly

adorned, and on their heads they wore a large black turban

46

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

over a small horsehair skull - cap. These people were very
shy ; I had much ado to photograph them ; and on my pro-
posing to buy a tunic, they fell on their knees and proftered
me some sapecks, trying to force back into my hands a small
hand-glass I had given them. I think they took us for gods.
They said they were Lintindjous, but the Chinese called them
Yaos. Rumour ascribed to them a writing of their own, of
which we tried in vain to procure a specimen ; their dialect at

any rate was totally dif-
ferent from any other.
They had come to
market with a dye for
sale. The Lintindjou
females displayed a small
disc above the hair knot,
which lent their turbans
some resemblance to a
papal tiara. In their
ears were heavy double
rings of silver.

On the 7th (March)
we re-entered the valley
of the Red River, to the satisfaction of our men. There was
much talk in camp of pirates on the heights. For my own
part I believe they were only natives in revolt against the taxes,
but our mafous showed no desire for chin-chin with them.
Spying on the door of a house here some white hieroglyphics,
I hastened to copy them, and flattered myself that I had made
prize of a new script. But Sao damped my philological ardour
by pronouncing the building to be a buffalo stable, and the

47

t'"1

A Vao.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

characters nothing but rude representations of agricultural imple-
ments. I am inclined to believe he was right.

At a hamlet some furlongs from the river we called a halt
for a day to rest our tired animals, one of which we had been
compelled to abandon that morning. The dwellings in this place
were white, with gabled roofs cemented with lime ; and had it
not been for the hideous red paper with which the doors were
plastered, one might have believed oneself in an Arab country.
As night fell, the mist that wrapped the opposite shore was
cloven by the glare of a conflagration : a fiery serpent writhed
on the hillside and coiled itself in the hollows, to rear a
glowing head as it crept upwards to the summit. P'or hours I
watched with awestruck admiration this spectacle of splendid
devastation.

On the morrow we resumed our march by the zigzag course
of the Song-Coi, which here varied in width from about fifty
yards in the stream to three hundred yards in the bed. Houses
were grouped in terraces upon the promontories, sometimes with
verandahs, Thibetan fashion, with flat adjoining roofs, which
afforded drying ground for the hay and means of communica-
tion for the inmates. The latter were Pais, or, to speak more
generally, Laotians, clad in Chinese garb. Sao addressed some
words to them in Laotian, and was understood. The whole
of this part of the Red River valley showed traces of a
bygone prosperity, and must have been ravaged by the Mussul-
man war.

The path at this point left the lower level, and climbed under
craggy rocks to which clung the taper-like cactus, and by slopes
where the sward lay like a fleece, over which one felt inclined
to pass one's hand ; when ruffled by the breeze its surface broke

48

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

into a play of colours as of golden plush. From here I made
an expedition with Francois to a neighbouring Lolo village,
whose inhabitants steadfastly refused to be photographed, alleg-
ing that if they sat in front of the camera they would meet
an early death. They could give us no information as to Lolo
manuscripts, but said that farther on we should find many more
of their kindred. Back to the valley again, where the Pai
women were net-fishing in the rice swamps, or working in minia-
ture market gardens. In one of their villages we sought shelter
for the ensuing night in a house built on a low platform, with
posts within blackened by the soot of ages. Here I ensconced
myself on the landlord's bed. — two planks on the bare ground ;
outside, our baggage was piled in a crescent, of which our men
improvised two-storeyed accommodation. Having written up
my notes, I tried to sleep ; but the smoke, the stuffiness, the
grunting pigs and clucking hens, prevented my closing an eye.
At length I could stand it no longer, and took my blankets up
on to the flat roof where in the friendly society of a few rats I
found a luxurious couch of hay. Below me, by the door, two
men made plaintive melody on a three-stringed guitar, while a
third, seated on the edge of the roof, threw in an occasional
accompaniment. Near them, their mitre-shaped caps sharply pro-
filed in the clear moonlight, crouched some women. The scene
was quaint and foreign.

On the iith (March) we were in the valley of another affluent,
and limestone formations took the place of the diorite and
mica-schist of the higher altitudes. The heat was great through-
out the day, 98° Fahr. in the shade, but dry, and we stood
it well enough. Fine specimens of the cotton or, as they are

here called, pagoda trees spread their clusters of brilliant flowers ;
D 49

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

out of their thick glutinous calix the natives make a conserve.
The rising ground brought us to a village in which again a new
tribe, the Miaotses, presented itself, with inconsiderable dis-
tinguishing marks,
chiefly in a loose
jacket without but-
tons worn by the
women. I could
not here find any
natives who under-
stood Chinese, and
was therefore unable
to obtain precise
information in their

After the Chinese,
the natives of
Yunnan are divided
into the Ijen, who
are the subject
Lolos, and the
Mantzes, who are
the free. The Ijen
comprise the Hei-y,
the Pa-y, the Pai-y,
the Lolos, the Teou-
lous, the Cha-jen, the
Noung-jen, the Poula, the Manjen, etc. Kouitchan is the parent
district of the Yaos and the Miaos, who are sometimes met with
in Yunnan.

50

Harrower, Miaotsc Tribe.

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

The Miaos or Miaotses (who do not speak Chinese) have
four family names : Tien, Lo, Tch'eng, and Ts'ai. They are
divided into —

Koua Miao . . . dress, various.

Pai Miao . . . ,, yellow.

Hei Miao . . . ,, blue-black.
H'ing Miao.

On leaving the Miaotse village, we noticed at the foot of a
large tree a white marble trough surmounted by a Chinese in-
scription, and below it two horizonal marble slabs, on one of
which the following figure was engraved : —

Descending again to the level of the Song-CoT, we entered
upon scenery of unforeseen beauty. The road wound beneath
a wooded hillock, where the breeze that stirred the branches
wafted a faint fragrance of vanilla, not unlike the sweet scent
of the joss-sticks of Thibet, and the grove was bright with large
white blooms, either pendent or strewn upon the ground like
snowflakes. A little farther it dipped into cool hollows filled
with slender reeds or the wavino- boug-hs of the mimosa and
the tamarind. Coming from the rocky desolation of the river-
bed, the sensation was like that of Aladdin when he emerged
into the Wonderful Garden after threading long labyrinths of
dreary caves. In the heart of this little paradise nestled a Pai
hamlet ; by which for the night we pitched our tent, and watched
the moon rise almost red through the boles of the trees, as in

51

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

some remembered scene in Japan. Then to sleep : with only
the chirp of the cricket and the " takko-ko-ko " of the lizards
round us.

Two more stages and we should arrive at Isa ; the road
became more frequented, as was shown by stone water - troughs
for the caravans under little wayside shelters. We met strings
of mules laden with salt, and other merchandise is taken down
the river in small i6-feet boats, which descend in convoys. At
the rapids the flotilla stops, the crews take to the water, and
pass each cargo through in turn.

Our rate of progress was slow, for the animals were tired.
One of the mules being hardly able to stagger on, the makotou
bled it from the tongue, and burnt a rag under its nose, which
caused a discharge from its nostrils ; he then made the animal
inhale some powdered pimento placed on glowing charcoal, and
finally forced it to swallow a black drug called kouizen. After
which attentions the mule revived sufficiently to proceed.

In the afternoon of the 13th (March) we came in sight of
Isa. I have seen few things more cheerful than the aspect of
this little town. Crowning the hills and set in the verdure of
the valleys, it enclosed its tiers of white - roofed houses within
walls which the bamboo and larger trees chequered with their
shadows in the sunlight. Beneath it, in the plain, ran the river ;
on the right bank, rice-fields dotted with villages ; on the left,
the range that we now forsook, which reared its bare crags as
a background to the richness of this little oasis.

It was opposite Isa that Gamier descended. The town con-
tains some thousands of inhabitants, and has a brisk trade. Salt
comes from Mohei (near Pou - eul - Fou), sugar from Tong-hai,
tobacco from Canton through Manhao, and other goods from

52

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

Yuenkiang. They told us, also, of an ancient copper mine in
the river valley, now disused.

We had the luck to fail in our quest of an inn, so camped in
the midst of the tombs on a mound topped by a polygonal stone
kiosk, which now contained nothing but a few joss - sticks : it
made us a good kitchen. The populace was almost exclusively
Chinese, and the gapers were as numerous as usual in that race.
A few of them, however, betook themselves from contemplation
of us to flying kites, which rose to a great height, and produced
a strange humming through a tube tied to the tail. In the
same way, the Chinese have a habit of fastening a musical pipe
under the tail-feathers of their pigeons. All these loafing fellows
were a nuisance, though not hostile as at Setchuen. They did
not resent our scattering them, but settled again immediately
like flies.

From Isa to Ta-lan was said to be eisjht stages, at the fifth
of which we should rejoin the highway from Yuenkiang, unless
a short cut should allow of our avoiding the known routes.

Having, therefore, replenished our commissariat and disap-
pointed the wily Francois, who sought to inveigle us into staying
by the tale of a wondrous dragon with a jewel in its head, that
we might undoubtedly capture in the vicinity, we set forward on
the following day, and, leaving the main road on our right, bade
farewell to the river valley, and directed our course to the west.
I preceded the main body with Sao, but, owing to the native
ignorance of Chinese, our inquiries as to the route met with the
invariable response of "Ma chai " ("I can't say"). Eventually,
a Chinese innkeeper put us right, and we reached our intended
halting-place, a village called Souto. The people were Lolos
again, and while waiting for the rest of the party I conversed

55

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

with them by signs, showed them my field-glasses, and asked for
manuscripts. They indicated that they had none. Francois
was of no help to me in these researches, as he ignored the
existence of Lolo writings, and regarded my efforts as a harm-
less eccentricity. According to him, the Houd-dzeu alone, the
abstainers from pig, had other characters than the Chinese.

While thus engaged with the villagers the day declined, and
still no caravan. We decided to retrace our steps, but night
overtook us at the entrance to a wood. It seemed more prudent
to stop, as we had before us a solitary dwelling where earlier in
the day we had asked the way. Accordingly we knocked, but,
getting no answer save the barking of a dog, I pushed open the
gate and entered the courtyard. A shrivelled beldame accosted
us, and in trembling accents conjured us to go away, repeating
incessantly the familiar phrase, " Ma chai." As it was black as
pitch outside, I bade Sao pacify the old woman, which he pro-
ceeded to do by patting her on the shoulder and pouring out a
string of Chinese and Laotian patois. The dialogue had been
begun by the light of a match which I struck ; I now lit a wisp
of straw, which the hag no sooner saw than, thinking we were
going to burn down her hovel, she trampled on it with her bare
feet in great alarm. At this juncture a ragged old man appeared
on the scene. He had more wits than the grandam, and presently
the matter seemed in a fair way of settlement. An oil lamp was
produced, some straw shaken down for our beds, and we unsaddled
the horses and laid aside our arms. Meanwhile disquieting shouts
were heard without, accompanied by dropping shots from the
direction of the village. " Pou pa" ("don't fear"), said the man ;
but I was far from feeling reassured ; and as the tumult increased
I stepped out into the yard, making signs at the same time that

56

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

he should sally forth and interview the rioters. A long silence
showed that a parley was being held. I took my stand in the
court with Sao, who did not lose his sang froid. Of a sudden,
about a dozen men burst in armed with guns, 12-feet lances,
swords, and tridents. The Hou-Nis (for as such I at once recog-
nised them) were led by a man brandishing a torch, and from
their threatening gestures seemed about to fall on ; their pieces
were at the shoulder and their fingers uncomfortably close to the
triggers. I had slipped
my revolver into my
pocket and loaded my
gun, determined not to
sell my skin for nothing;
though, caught in a trap
as we were, we were
pretty sure of our
quietus if they attacked.
In this crisis Sao sur-
prised me by his cool
courage for an Anna-
mite. Knowing that,
bad as his Chinese was, it would come better from an Asiatic
than my gibberish, I left the speaking to him. Our old
emissary had by this time prudently made himself scarce.
In roueh tones the leader of the band invited me to begfone.
This was not our intention, so we replied by making signs
that we were hungry, and to show a firm front began to
sweep a space in the court for a fire. Then Sao had an
inspiration. Although he could not speak Chinese, he could
write it. The yard served as a spacious slate, and he forthwith

57

\

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

proceeded to describe our situation with his finger in the
sand. As soon as one phrase was comprehended, he rubbed it
out and traced another. The Hou-Ni chief then made answer
by the same medium, witli the help of a word or two of Laotian.
The position which a moment before had looked ugly was altered,
— each had taken the other for robbers. Our wild gane now was

o o

tamed, and for a small sum of money brought us eggs and rice
and straw mattresses. Still they seemed reluctant to leave us,
and four or five hung about our sleeping quarters with their arms
in their hands, casting covetous eyes on my gun. The one who
had appeared their head observing me taking notes, asked me,
through Sao, to write some words for him to hang up at the foot
of an image in his house. At length they withdrew, and, worn
out with fatigue, I slept. At daylight we felt very glad to be
once more in the saddle ; the overnight scene of the courtyard
filled with savage faces lit up by the torchlight had left a suffi-
ciently vivid impression. But for my Annamite's presence of
mind anything might have happened ; the least hesitation would
have lost us our lives.

We found our troop installed in a pagoda in the village
of Souto-tia. The monthly feast of Buddha was in progress.
Women were on their knees with clasped hands before the figure
of a fat god ; its features wore an expression of perfect bestiality,
and in one hand was placed a garland, in the other a scroll. The
worshippers accompanied their chant with bells or sticks, and
from time to time prostrated themselves in front of the altars,
on which were burning perfumes, bowls of rice, tamarind seeds,
and other offerings. In Souto I at last succeeded in laying hands
on two Lolo manuscripts, in exchange for some money, a looking-
glass, and a pair of scissors.

58

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

We resumed our march in company with five Chinese on
horseback, and twenty men on foot armed with matchlocks, spears,
and tridents, who formed the escort of a minor mandarin on his
way to chastise some Hou-Ni rebels. The natives hereabouts
had a reputation for lawlessness ; most of them carried weapons
and employed their spare time in brigandage, of which spirit we
had evidence at a village from which the inhabitants issued and
with angry menaces forbade us entry.

The landscape began to change. We had left the region of
rice-fields for confused mountains covered with brake and brush-
wood, and were approaching the divergence of the Red and Black
Rivers. At Ta-yang-ka the headman told us of a path followed
by caravans coming from Ibang, which passed through Muong-le
without rejoining the main Ta-lan road. We decided to take it,
and this time our men obeyed without much demur. They began
to recognise our determination, of which they had received a tresh
proof. Up to this point the makotou had paid the mafous,
deducting half a tael for food from the seven taels per man which
he drew from us. We now learned that the rogue had been in
the habit of handing his subordinates only five taels. Upon their
complaint, I promised for the future to pay them direct.

To the men originally engaged at Mongtse we had now
and then, as occasion served, added another as guide. A young
Lolo, who at this time was acting in that capacity, proved
intelligent, and furnished me with some facts regarding the Pais.
By his account they are divided into four sorts —

( 1 ) The Cliui-Pa'is ; distinguishing mark, black trousers and
blue vest in the women.

(2) The Kin-Pats ; hair twisted into a knot like a horn,
sleeve-cuffs gathered in at wrists.

59

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

(3) The Pd-Pats, or White Pais ; women — black trousers,
white vest.

(4) The Hd-Pais, or Black Pais ; women wear skirt instead of
trousers, and a waistcoat ; men in dark blue.

He averred that the Hou-Nis had no writing like the Lolos.
They reckon numbers by means of parallel lines ; thus, £, 2, 3, 4,
etc., and are only conversant with two characters, signifying
100 and 200 respectively. But the Hou-Nis and the Lolos
understand each other in speech, indeed their vocables revealed
many similarities of sound. This particular guide styled himself
a Hei-Lolo ; farther west are found the P^-Lolos. The Miaotses,
too, have a writing. It is well known that M. Devdria found, in
a published Chinese work, a page the characters of which were
ascribed to the Miaotses. We met women here clad only in a
sort of bathing costume, with a loose open vest. Their hair
was parted behind, and drawn forward in two bands to form a
top-knot, protected with a copper sheath. They were said to
belong to the Hei-Hou-Nis. I remembered a like head-dress
among the independent Lolos of Setchuen, whom the missionaries
called " Licornes."

Beyond Ta-yang-ka we were enveloped in a Scotch mist, with

the thermometer down to 46° Fahr. The Chinese who paid

us a visit carried a small basket containing an earthen vessel

filled with hot charcoal. Some of them concealed this Sybaritic

warming-pan under their garments, and looked as if they were

deformed. At Lou-tchou we bore away pleasant recollections of

the hospitality of the chief, who insisted on killing a pig in

our honour, and gave me a jade cup as a souvenir. I also

acquired copious information, costumes, and some manuscripts.

The chief was a toussou in command of a hundred men, nomi-

60

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

nated by the Chinese mandarin at Yuenkiang, and dependent for
his pay on farming the taxes of the district. In the dialect of
this part the Lolos are called Nesous — a name met with by the
traveller Bourne in other parts of Yunnan and Setchuen, and by
ourselves much farther on. Hence Nesou should be taken as a
subdivision of the general designation Lolo among the peoples of
China. These Nesous were established about five hundred years
ago, under Ming- la (at the end of the Ming dynasty), from Tiang-
Neu (Nang-king). This coming of the Lolos from the East was
confirmed to us later. On the other hand, we met with universal
testimony that when they first came to Yunnan they found the
Hou-Nis already settled there. Nowhere did I hear any other
place of origin assigned to the latter than Yunnan. Wishing to
affirm that they were the aborigines of Yunnan, the toussou
told me that the Hou-Nis had been in this province for over
three thousand years. He divided them into —

Hei- Hou-Nis,

D^-Hou-Nis,

Lami-Hou-Nis,

Bana-Hou-Nis,

the last two not being found in this region. Polygamy is

prevalent among the Lolos, but divorce is not admitted. The

custom noted by Rocher, according to which the married woman

quits her husband for several months after first cohabitation, was

not in force here. Marriage is solemnised by drums and

trumpets and killing of fowls, but there is no religious ceremony.

Particulars as to creeds were always hard to obtain, especially

with a bad interpreter like ours. But I gathered that the

Lolos believed in spirits, in one more powerful than all, in

heaven and hell, and in the existence and transmigration of

6i

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

souls. They have books of prayer ; and though they do not
build temples, they erect little bamboo altars in the woods.
They sing and dance, and the dates of their feasts are generally
marked in the Chinese calendar. The climate of this part is
cold in winter, ice even being seen in December. Deer and

small game abound
in the mountains,
which, as far as the
inhabitants knew,
have no mines.
The female cos-
tumes which we
bought deserve
mention, being
peculiar for a long
sort of cassock
with red sleeves,
the corsage worked
with handsome
c j/ / arabesques in

black, white, and
red, disclosing,
when open, a small
embroidered vest.
It is from these
varied hues that the Lolos probably derive the name Koua-
Lolos (Lolos of colour). The throat was encircled by a band
with a silver clasp, and the head by a turban, the ends of
which were brought round in front and ornamented with silver

studs, while large ear-rings of the same metal completed the

62

.:'7

//'/.,..

Lolo Woman.

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

whole. Manuscripts were plentiful at Lou-tchou, and they
brought me some very fine illuminated ones. The characters
are still in use, employed in property contracts in duplicate with
Chinese. A more learned native than most agreed to make a
translation for me, and said the Lolo caligraphy contained three
hundred letters and signs, and was read from the top of the
page to the bottom, and from left to right.

We quitted Lou-tchou in thick fog by a route following for the
most part the crests of the hills through low woods, where red and
white rhododendrons alternated. Primitive bee-hives furnished us
with welcome honey in hollow trunks stopped with clay and bored
through the middle. The route being fairly frequented, we met
quantities of tea and cotton, the former sometimes wrapped in
bamboo leaves ; most of the muleteers were armed with tridents,
and as the caravans travelled in large convoys their appearance
was sufficient to overawe robbers. Despite the bad weather, our
men kept up well. Francois, draped in a long blue cloak, under
a round grey hat, looked from behind like a town-clock ; on the
march he sat his pony like a statue, mute and erect ; only after
dinner was his tongue loosed, and he would condescend to inter-
rogate the natives.

Among our mafous was one, a lad of twelve, accompanying
his father, whose frank expression and cheery "cheulo" ("all right")
quite gained our hearts ; even when he rapped out the customary
" malepi," the imprecation seemed to lose half its ugliness. It was
deplorable to think that this boy was doomed to so short a child-
hood, and that ere long he would inevitably become a confirmed
opium -smoker, and acquire with their passions all the corruption
of his elders. Among the Hou-Ni villages around the greatest
squalor prevailed, and the wretched inhabitants lived in constant

63

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

terror of tigers, which even invaded their hovels, and had recently
carried off two men : we ourselves met many traces of these animals
for several days. Our surroundings, however, improved by the
19th (March), when we were on the descent into the valley of
the La-niou-ho, an affluent of the Lysiang-kiang, or Black River ;
within five miles of which gold was said to be found. The fog

cleared off; instead of forest,
we had rice or poppy fields,
terraced villages amid Indian
fig-trees festooned with orieantic
creepers or covered with hairy
orchids, and open tracts of
moss - ^rrown rocks and fern.
The air was scented with
orange blossom and alive with
sethyopiga of brilliant hue ;
through such scenery, typical
of Upper Tonkin, we made
the stage to Ngapa. One
could not but be struck with
the degradation of the women
of this district : with scarcely a
rag to cover them, they were
here, as in Thibet, little better
than beasts of burden, the hewers of wood and drawers of water.
A cotton caravan met us here, coming from a region beyond
the tea plantations, eighteen days distant. The cotton is bought
at eight taels the pecuV and sold for fourteen. This commodity
might with advantage be sent by us from Tonkin.

^ Pecul = about 133 lbs.
64

Woman at Ngapa.

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

The dampness of the climate caused Briffaud a slight attack
of fever, and we had no desire to stay In the neighbourhood ;
but one morning, as we were about to make an early start, we
discovered that a case containing provisions and a cape of mine
was missing. We had passed the night in a solitary hut, whose

mi:^

Feeding the Prisoner.

only tenants were four natives. As neither threats nor careful
search revealed the box, we resolved on drastic measures, and
proceeded to make two of them captives, to be carried off as
hostages. Accordinelv their hands were tied behind their backs,
without a sign of opposition on their parts. The one female in
E 65

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

the hovel fed them before their departure, and nothing more
comic can be conceived than to see this brace of goitred imbeciles
on their knees receivinsr beakfuls of food from their nurse. This
done, the column set forward.

Wild camellias abounded by the way, and with the change
of ilora I observed also new fauna, scarlet paroquets and birds
of turquoise blue. Plants and insects were of no less brilliance,
and it was interesting to note the law of adaptation and protective
colour that everywhere exists. Our quadrupeds were jaded : my
own horse, skittish enough at the start, was now dead beat ;
every few yards he stopped, and could hardly be induced to
move although I dismounted and endeavoured to drag him
forward. There was still one more hill before us ; this time he
could not breast it. Down he went. Outstretched limbs and
glazing eye showed all was over. Often as I had had to lose
other animals, it cost me a pang to leave behind this good
servant, whose final struggles had not quite availed to land
him at the stage's end.

Dinner over, I examined our prisoners. Miserable tattered

objects they were : one maimed and embellished with a huge

goitre like the pouch of a pelican ; the other halt and with his

eyes bulging out of his head. They might have been fugitives

from the Court of Miracles, fit to figure in one of Victor Hugo's

dramas. Just now, having had a meal and a smoke, they were

helping our mafous, who promptly seized so rare a chance of

orettino- their work done for them. As it rained heavily and

a rest was imperative for the mules, we decided on a stoppage

for a day. The captives were released, — -of course, without the

recovery of the bo.x, ^ — and they went their way home quite

contented. They had been well treated, and for very little would

66

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

have stayed with us of their own choice. The goitred one even
gave us guttural thanlcs, prefacing every word with a sort of
bellow.

Again we were in the vicinity of Lolos ; and by showing
those that we had already, made purchase of more manuscripts.
I was promised one upon linen, which would have been valuable
as older than the others, but, unhappily, this I never got. Sao
saw in a house a belt made of the skin of a tiger, cut off the
chest from paw to paw, leaving one claw on each. Such a
waistband, the Annamites say, is a good preventive to stomach
ills, and the Lolos attach the same efficacy to it. These tribes-
men were still of the Koua Lolos. They came in a century
ago from Chiping on the Yiinnan-Sen side, and maintained a
worship of the P^ti (Deity). Their garments were of home-
• made cotton, stained with a blue dye froni Lotsen. From them
we heard of " black dogs " in the neighbouring mountains that
climbed trees : query, bears ?

On the 22nd (March) we came to the right brink of a rushing
torrent called the La-niou-ho, which was pronounced impassable by
the guide, who found the water up to his neck at the ford. The
sight of a collection of armed villagers on the far side did not serve
to encourage our men, and the makotou was for staying where we
were till the waters should decrease. As I saw no reason for ex-
pecting this, but rather the reverse, Roux and I put our animals at
it, and got over with some difficulty. The mules were then dragged
through by strings of five at a time, the men keeping on their lee
side to push their heads up stream. Only one broke adrift and was
swept down a rapid which was below : we hardly thought to recover
him, but being without his load he came through somehow, and at
the end of three-quarters of an hour we all mustered safe on the left

67

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

bank. I kept the photographic materials dry by taking them on my
head ; and Nam, who loved not horseback, did the same for the
collecting gun by holding it at arm's-length above his head. Thus
Camoens swam with the " Lusiad " in his hand ; only our cook was
not a poet, and thought most of his pipe and his pot, after his own
skin.

We slept that and several succeeding nights among some Hou-
Nis, tormented by legions of fleas that recalled Madagascar. The
inhabitants were uniformly hospitable, and this tribe pronounced
themselves in their own dialect Han. The women had their lower
teeth stained with a scarlet dye made from a tree called sena. There
were no musical instruments nor writing amongst them, they did
not dance, and they prayed to a superior being whom they called
Ponkhu, and to whom they erected small bamboo altars. In pro-
portion as we neared the Black River the country became more
cheerful, with a formation of sandstone or slaty schist. The hills
were clothed with tufts of feathery bamboos or deeper groves of
fig-trees, with roots exposed like feelers of a giant polypus, and with
a species of palm the head of which expanded in a sheaf ot wind-
tossed dark green leaves less formal than ordinary. Other trees,
again, were laden with violet-tinted, sweet-smelling blossoms, which
almost hid their stems.

We should have enjoyed this part more had it not been for

renewed trouble with our mafous. They were slack, and we had to

hurry them up, with the result that three, including the little urchin

and his father, deserted. Their defection had a bad effect on the

others, and we were constrained to lessen their baggage duties, and

to talk freely of the gratuity with which those that remained loyal

would be able to make merry when we got to Ssumao. That

haven of delight was not now very far distant, and they would be

68

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

singularly short-sighted to forego such a chance for want of a final
effort. The majority of them saw it in this light, and held on.

Hatous.
69

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

The Hatous were the next new folk amongst whom we found
ourselves. They resembled the Hou-Nis in their sombre dress,
but, in addition to the usual silver ornaments, the women wore
cowries or pearls pendent from large ear-rings, which were linked by
a light chain under the chin. They were all very partial to tobacco,
which they smoked in small wooden pipes with silver chains ; one
stalwart old woman offered me three eggs for a pinch of it : her
upright carriage, with the energetic expression of her bronzed and
wrinkled face and restless eyes beneath her turban, gave her a mien
of barbaric wildness that suggested something almost uncanny
behind the mask. These Hatous, whose speech was akin to that
of the Hou-Xis, came here twenty-nine years ago from Ouang-
Tchang (near Xieng-houng), a small town not far from Tali, and
regretted their migration, which they would gladly retrace had they
the means. They had no priests, but worshipped the deities of
sky, earth, house, and mountain, as well as ancestors up to the
third generation, and they disbelieved in evil spirits.

■ The mountains harboured here wild boar, deer, roebuck, porcu-
pines, and tigers. The black panther is also to be found. I bought
a skin from two men, who called it helaofu (black tiger), and held
that it was the latter and no panther. However this may be, I
believe this is the first occasion when this colour has been cited in
these regions.

We reached the left bank of the Black River on the 26th (March),

and found a volume of tureid water rollinsf down, in breadth about

eighty-seven yards, between wooded hills of less height than those

which confine the Song-Coi. Its colour contrasted with the clear

torrent we had lately been following, but by the time it reaches

Tonkin it has lost its reddish tint. The Black River, known here

as the Lysiang-Kiang, higher as the Papien, and lower as the Song-

70

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

Bo, passes, in less than a week's journey below where we stood,
Muong-le (Lai-chau). The natives talked of Tonkin, to the dispirit-
ing of Sao, who imagined that by embarking here on a raft we
might be back there in a week. Nam, too, whose geographical
knowledge was of the vaguest, and placed Saigon close by, thought
he must be near home. They both wondered where in the world
we were taking them, and what possible object we could have in
wandering- about such uninvitinsf and monotonous countries.

The passage of the river was easily accomplished by relays
in a long pirogue, only two of the beasts requiring to be towed
•over, and the rest beginning quite to take to swimming.

In leaving the Black River I too threw a regretful glance
behind me, like my Annamites, though my motive was not theirs.
The knowledge of the life of a part of India, of Central Asia,
•embracing several hundred million beings, was becoming intel-
ligible to my perception. For the moment I yielded to the
witchery of Nirvana. . . .

But at night we were rudely recalled to the realities of lite
by an unforeseen peril. Under the pretext that tigers were in
the vicinity, our men set a light to the brushwood round our hut.
It was too late to check them, and presently we were walled in
with a ring-fence of roaring flame, which, if it saved us candles
to write by, also only missed the destruction of our persons and
property by the providential absence of the least wind.

We reached Muong-le on the 28th (March) ; the later stages
having been performed over a paved and widened road through
a. pretty country positively homelike in its foliage and grassy
slopes. One might almost have imagined oneself in some corner
of France, until by a turn of the path one came upon a mud-
walled village with yellow roofs in a clearing of cane-brake and

73

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

palm grove. Down on the level the sun struck bright on the
streams that watered the rice-fields and bananas, and the butter-
Hies and birds of gaudy hues reminded us that we were not in
northern latitudes. Muong-le proved to be a small town of less
importance than Isa, wholly Chinese, and built on a slight hill in
the centre of a plain, with the usual characteristics of wood or
plastered houses. We found good quarters in a sufficiently clean
granary belonging to an inn. The inhabitants lost no time in
telling us that two Frenchmen had been here only a few months
before, coming from Lai-chau. It was not difficult from their
description to identify one of these as Pavie, even had they not
held his name in remembrance ; the other was mentioned as
wearing epaulettes, and was known to the Chinese as Ma. Here,
as everywhere in my travels where I crossed his track, I was
struck by the admirable impression Pavie had left on the people
with whom he came in contact. The French cause in Indo-
China has reason to be grateful to this pioneer for the esteem in
which the name of France is held. It was always a matter of
regret to me that I did not meet his expedition, to shake hands
with fellow-workers in our common aim. We congratulated our-
selves on the intersection of our respective routes, however, so that
each in his research would fill in many blanks on the map of the
region extending from the Chinese Song-Coi' to the Mekong.

During our thirty-six hours' stay at Muong-le our relations
with the inhabitants and the mandarin were excellent. We ex-
changed visits of courtesy and presents with the military com-
mandant, "litajen." Nor did the crowd incommode us as at Isa.
As the 29th was market-day we were able to gain much insight
into the trade of the district. Skins of panthers, at one tael
apiece, were common, also of the wild cat and ant-eater. I

74

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

noticed at a drugo-ist's the head of a two-horned rhuioceros^
which had been killed four miles from here. The chief native
industry is a black cotton stuff, of which quantities hung before
the houses to dry. Other cotton is brouu'ht from Xiencr-hounQf,
and retailed at thirteen taels the pecul ; salt from Makai ; sugar
in round sticks from the neighbourhood, where the cane is culti-
vated, and sold at twenty-four sapecks the Chinese kilo.

The European articles of import are English needles, coloured
silks from Yiinnan-Sen, and French metal buttons from Canton.
7 he natives also sell minute cherries, a species of freshwater
shell-fish, tea of the district in small cylinders, rice, joss-sticks,
tobacco from the adjacent country in twist and in leaf, the tender
sprouts of the bamboo maize and ginger as delicacies, and vege-
tables. I also saw chintz from Chu-ping, wooden combs, pipe-
stems, and flints. Little opium is to be seen in the outskirts of
the place ; it is introduced in large quantities from Xieng-houng or
Mien-ling. It is not easy to gauge the caravan traffic, but from
what I heard I should estimate it to average about five hundred
mules a month, except in the three rainy ones.

We were off again on the morning of the 30th (March). The
rest was useful and necessary, but emphasised the undesirability
of staying in towns by an episode among our mafous that might
have turned to drama, and clearly instanced the Chinese char-
acter. The evenino before we started the makotou discovered

o

the loss of a packet of money from the chest in which he had
placed it. Suspicion fell on a mafou called Manhao, who had
hitherto given no cause for dissatisfaction. Forthwith the
makotou, without reference to us, warning, or proof, mustered the
other mafous, and with their help bound the suspect tightly to a
post. In this position they left the poor devil for the night,.

75

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

despite his protestations and howls. And among all his fellows
who for a whole month had travelled with him, eaten with him,
and toiled with him, there was not one who would lift a finger
against this injustice. They are a cowardly and cruel set, this
yellow race, always ready in their cold selfishness to combine
against the weak, and each satisfied if by finding a scapegoat he
can secure himself La Rochefoucauld ought to have written his
maxims for the Chinese ; he would never have been in error.
In the early morning Manhao came with lamentations to us,
showing his swollen arms. I have little doubt he was as bad as
the rest, and would have acted himself in a precisely similar
fashion had the occasion offered ; but for the moment he was the
plaintiff, and our investigations only established the fact that
there was absolutely no evidence against him. After having
angrily reprimanded the makotou, to his intense astonishment, we
required him to take care of the accused. The epilogue to this
little drama was to disclose itself a few days later.

The two first stages after leaving Muong-le were particularly
uninteresting, at the foot of the hills rice, and on the flanks villages,
thatched and unclean. We slept among Pais who had nothing
original. The only incident of the march was a kick which one of
the mules obligingly lent me in the face. I escaped with a grazed
eyebrow, but it might have been different. It was not without
envy that we saw buffaloes driven into the villages at nightfall ; but
we could neither make acquaintance with their flesh nor with the
milk of the cows : ever the eternal rice and eggs, fowls, and
occasional pork. On the ist April, in the afternoon, we had made
our customary halt for a bite and a rest, when just as we were about
to resume, a tremendous storm, which had lowered for some time

in the hills, burst over us. Lightning, thunder, wind, rain, hail, —

76

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

big guns and mitrailleuses, — nothing was lacking ; the hailstones
were as large as pigeons' eggs. Most curious was the aspect of the
caravan, as, cloaked in my ample waterproof with my shoulders
stooped to the deluge and my sight half obscured beneath my hat
brim, I endeavoured to take in my surroundings. With ears laid
back and tails between their legs the animals scattered, driven by
the blast and lashed by the hail, the men running hither and thither
in vain effort to collect them. Others of the mafous cowered
beneath their blankets, without which, in sober earnest, the hail
would have been dangerous. I felt the stones rattle round my ears,
and saw naked limbs receiving a far more lively impress of their
sting. Soon the faces of the men began to show long lines of red
like bleeding scars, the dye was running from inside their caps ia
streaks upon their visages. As for our two Annamites, bewilder-
ment possessed them, the phenomenon was altogether unfamiliar ;
they tried one or two of the hailstones with their tongues, and then,
as the projectiles grew bigger and the wind increased, surrendered
themselves to rigid immobility, like capuchins beneath their cowls.

The tempest ceased as suddenly as it began. The scared sun
looked forth, and turned the hailstones into iridescent gems, or
walnuts sparkling with crystals. " What a pity," soliloquised Nam,
" that one cannot preserve them !"

Within a quarter of an hour the little stream that before had
trickled was a roaring torrent, and we recognised that this route must
be impracticable in the rains. The surface became soft and treacher-
ous, and we had to wade through pools widening over oozy ground
in which the animals sank to their girths. Each instant saw a load
upset into the mud ; the men scarce knew when to give the mules
their heads, and, to crown all, the path became so narrow that they
had to prick them from behind to make them move forward with

77

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

their burdens. Amid these difficulties Francois suffered most. He
urged his pony at the mire, and promptly tumbled into the river.
Knowing- full well he would get no sympathy from us, he bore him-
self with offended dig-
nity, much enhanced
by the lamentable
state of his once showy
velvet boots, and
oravelv climbin<'" on
to his little grey was
presently trotting
ahead in search of a
camping ground. We
succeeded at length,
without much knowing
how, in reaching an
insignificant Chinese
village, where two
scanty rooms were
grudgingly assigned
us after prepayment.
However, a proper
bath soon made
amends for the April
fool's washing we had
already undergone.

Francois.

As the rain was over 1 sallied out to investigate, and hard b)-
came to a large tree in a hollow, with a small altar at its foot. The
platform was supported by uprights and cross pieces, and at its
sides were arranged some peeled Avands, with a bamboo trellis

78

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

against the trunk ; the whole structure being thoroughly Laotian.
As I surveyed this mark of reverence to some woodland deity, my
thoughts reverted to a like worship paid by our ancestors, the Gauls,
to the eenii of the forests. It is not one of the least interesting
studies of the traveller to trace thus among the savage races of
to-day the past history of people now advanced in civilisation. By
self-same paths our forefathers set out. Here, separated by
thousands of years and hundreds of leagues, one could detect a
common starting-point for races of mankind dissimilar in manners
as in feature. Might we not look to find as we journeyed west-
ward away from China proper and penetrated the abodes of
men still more remote from the fringe of civilisation, — ^just as in
the islands north of Japan or in the higher latitudes of Siberia, —
habits and scenes from the iron epoch, nay, even from the age
of stone . . . ?

A tedious gradual ascent and the crossing of a spur led us on
the 2nd (April) to the edge of the basin of the Mekong River. A
deep valley lay at our feet, but in the swathing mist it seemed to
our eyes one vast void. Our men showed an inclination to stop
short at a village on the pretext that there was not another for
twenty miles, but we made them proceed : a roof of stars was pre-
ferable to a grimy shelf It was not until 6.30 p.m. that we came
in touch of water, and by it pitched our tent. Later, Briffaud and
the " Doctor," as Roux had been dubbed at Tonkin, employed
themselves by the light of an opium lamp, which we used to
economise candles, in working out our longitude by an observation
of the moon and Jupiter. We had to-day accomplished three
hundred and twelve miles of exploration. We could not have
guessed at Manhao that we should reach Ssumao by an entirely
new route. Our journey had thus had unforeseen development,

79

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

and by continuing in the same way we might hope to accomplish
ofood results.

All the next day we were descending into the valley, the base of
which could be seen to be cultivated with rice and tobacco by Pais.
In the evening (3rd April) we celebrated the five-hundredth
kilometre by a great feast, washed down by Sparkling Rivulet

'^i

^.F^ /

/>-^

Halt of our Men.

and Old Crusted Pump, and crowned by coffee and cigars. A

grand concert concluded the proceedings, and we felt almost like

home. Before turning in we had a long moonlight chat ; plans were

discussed, maps brought out, and books consulted ; our imagination

spanned valleys and overleaped mountains in the Far West of our

hopes ; and lest we should lose the least portion of our airy dreams,

sleep stole upon us as we talked.

80

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

Upon the 4th (April) we crossed the river, successfully
accomplished, and enlivened by a difference between Chantzeu
(Roux's man) and his steed, which ended in the quadruped having
the last word. Chantzeu led off by selecting the deepest spot in the
stream ; the horse, after nearly losing its footing, refused the
opposite bank, and bore its rider back to the starting-point. Again
they crossed, and again fell out ; this time Chantzeu came off in mid-
stream, and got a most desirable ducking. But his blood was now
up, and he started to drag his recalcitrant mount behind him. It
was no good : neither blows nor kicks nor a litany of " malepis "
availed ; and it was only by the intervention of the others that the
unvanquished combatants, a queer conglomerate of two creatures, —
I had almost said beasts, — with but half a brain between them, were
towed across together on the same bridle.

We breakfasted in the midst of a charming landscape. Pine-clad
hills stood round in a semicircle, with villages clinging to their
curves. On the mound where we were a grove protected a hut,
within which was an altar built of three upright stones upon a bank
of earth. Feathers of fowls, and bamboo tubes containing half-
burnt joss-sticks, were stuck before it, relics of a former sacrifice.
This little temple was probably the common property of the
several hamlets in sight. The situation was a fine one, and as
much by its position as by its surroundings reminded me of the
locality in the outskirts of Hue, where may be seen the wonderful
tombs of the Emperors of Annam. This pleasant scenery continued
on the morrow ; the mountains, bare on their eastern, were wooded
on their western slopes, with a stunted growth of gnarled trees, like
oak and chestnut, on the heights, and a ranker, semi-tropical
vegetation of curtained creepers in the torrent beds below. We
rested for the night in Po-tso, an attractive place, where the

F 81

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

buildings were new and cleanly. The chief industry of its Chinese
occupants was the making of the spirit called " tchaotiou " of rice
or barley, so that a mild exhilaration soon displayed itself among
our men. In rear of the village was a clearing, planted with
cabbage, lettuce, turnips, fennel, and pumpkins, the soil in many
cases being propped by horizontal tree trunks or hollow bamboo
stems, which also served as aqueducts. The side walks were
shaded by palms, pomegranates, bananas, and orange - trees,
carefully tended. The Chinese certainly are first - rate market-
gardeners.

On the 6th (April) Ssumao was reported as only twenty-four
miles distant. I therefore sent on Francois and the makotou,
nothing loth, to secure quarters. Our mafous were ready to be off
by 8.15 a.m., — a treat to behold, — mules saddled, packs corded, and
no useless palaver ; our roles were reversed, — it was they who
hurried us now. One day more, and then pay, brandy, opium, and
leisure to enjoy their dissipation. From the number of basket-
laden peasants we met in the course of our approach to the town, it
must have been market-day ; buffaloes there were, too, swinging
wooden bells with outside clappers like those in Laos. The region
here seemed to be warmer, and, besides the commoner rice and
scented white rhododendron, aloes reappeared, which we had not
seen since our entry into the province of Yunnan.

At a turn of the road Ssumao came in sight. Instinctively we
drew a deep breath as we saw stretched before us a wide plain,
such as we last looked on at Mongtse, in the centre of which the
town rose on a gentle acclivity. A haze hung over it, through
which an indistinct impression was received of white walls, grey
roofs, and darker verdure, with detached pagodas amid groves of
large trees upon the summit. Between us and the town lay spread

82

FROM MONGTSE TO SSUMAO

the accustomed graveyard, with little mounds like molehills, and
here and there a single column ; not, as in the capital, a forest
of upright stones. We followed a path through level rice-fields
and narrow dikes, and presently arrived at our rest-house in the
suburbs.

83

CHAPTER III

SSUMAO TO TALI

Stay at Ssumao — Civility of the Mandarin — Troubles with our Men— We start for the
West— Mules Stolen— Among the Pais— The Mekong— The Lochais— Dayakeu-
Theft of Roux's Baggage— Disappearance of Nam— Lolo Dances — Roux's Digression
on the Mekong Right Bank— Crossing of the S^-kiang— The Pou Mas— Linguen, a
Pretty \'alley— Near the Sahven Basin— Stop at Mienning — Ruse of our Followers—
The Makotou Stabbed— Chinese Character— Mong-Ma— Dismissal of Francois— A
Mutiny Averted— Yunchou— Elephants— Chunning-Fou— Bridge over the Mekong-
Valley of the Vang-pi— Plain of Meng-hua-ting— Lake of Tali (Er'hai)— Arrival at
Tali-Fou.

We remained at Ssumao four days, undergoing rather than
enjoying a well-earned rest for man and beast, in about as in-
different a lodging as was possible. It was a kind of caravanserai
composed of a series of courts round a centre block containing
a number of cells all on the ground floor. The first night I
occupied a corner one, the walls of which were literally crenelated
by rats, who performed such a saraband and squeaking concert
over and around my body that I was fairly driven to take refuge
with Roux, who had only a few rovers, and those of more respect-
ful manners. Yet this was the best hostelry in the town ; and,
by a curious coincidence, two other Europeans had, we were told,
only left it the day previous. These were a couple of Englishmen,
one an officer : from all the information we could gather they
seemed to have travelled from Burmah, and to be returning as

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SSUMAO TO TALI

they had come, by Puchi Fou and Tali. This news reUeved us
greatly, as a dread took us lest we should have been forestalled
in our projected route. None the less did it behove us to press
forward, — explorers were already increasingly common in Yunnan ;
it was a race between French and English, and an eager rivalry
had arisen even among Frenchmen themselves. The field of the
unknown grew daily narrower, and blank spaces were vanishing

Street in Ssumao.

with remarkable rapidity. Hitherto we might congratulate our-
selves : we had filled in the first portion of our work, and that in
a country declared by the English to be impracticable. Colquhoun
had written that, notwithstanding the promise of his inception, he
could not advance from INIanhao by the right bank of the Song-
Coi; while, according to Bourne, the district which we had just
traversed was without any means of communication. This state-

85

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

ment is erroneous. Roads abound — the most insignificant village
is connected with the one next to it.

No sooner were we rested, therefore, than we longed to be
off. Except in the outskirts, where we picked up commercial
information, there was little to repay inspection in Ssumao itself.

Pagoda in Ssumao.

Most Chinese towns are alike, — the same shops, the same trades,

the same alleys with their wooden signs, and pagodas displaying

hideous dragons. There was no CTettino- about in the streets

without a loafing retinue, and no remaining indoors without a

crowd of idle gapers. Drive them out with a stick at one door and

they flowed in again at another, to the sore trial of one's temper.

86

SSUMAO TO TALI

In the confined space in which we were cooped up, the germs
of various minor maladies contracted en route began to declare
themselves, and rheumatism, neuralgia, headache, and general slack-
ness prevailed ; while, in proportion as the moving accidents of
travel were lacking, difficulties assumed exaggerated shape, and a
mild form of nostalgia succeeded to the excitement of the road.
But man proposes and — in China — man also disposes. To our
followers this was a paradise which they were in no hurry to quit.
Luckily our relations with the local magnate were so cordial as
to console us in some measure for the delay. He was a well-
educated mandarin from the neighbourhood of Chanof-hai, and
gave us every attention and help in his power, from which we
derived considerable benefit both then and after.

We got but little information out of the natives of the district.
A Lolo brought me a manuscript which he could read but not
interpret, being, as he averred, a treatise in an obsolete dialect on
religious subjects. I engaged this villager to write me some
modern Lolo ; and a young Chinese, who had brought two packets
of tea as a gift, with a request that we should remove a swelling
from his neck, offered himself as intermediary and scribe. He
wrote down some words in Chinese which he then read to the
native, who in turn rendered them into the Lolo language and
characters. By this means I obtained an interesting document.
It was a common appeal among these folk that we should cure
them of various complaints, chiefly of the interior. My usual
advice was — give up smoking opium, first of all. This was enough
for my patients.

April the iith was finally fixed for the start. The makotou
and the mafous, in supplication for the road, made votive
offerings to Buddha in the shape of a fowl, a pig's head, a jar

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

of tchaotiou, and joss-sticks. The joss-sticks duly burned, while
Buddha, like Don Caesar de Bazan behind the bars, was only
regaled by proxy. But the men made good cheer.

At the last moment, of course, difficulties cropped up to
retard us. First, a squabble between the makotou and the
innkeeper over a sixpence, which I left them to settle. Then
a more serious difference arose in our own ranks. Some time
previously one of our fellows, a Mussulman, openly denounced
Frangois to me for peculation. The disclosure had fanned the
interpreter's existing- hatred of the followers of the Prophet, and,
notwithstanding that the man was a willing hand, he demanded
that I should summarily dismiss "the despiser of pork," on the
ground that he smoked opium. This was frivolous, seeing that
they all shared the vice. A violent altercation ensued between
Franqois, the makotou, and the Houi Houi (Mussulman), in the
course of which the last named vigorously and publicly landed
one of his tormentors a punch on the head, and the other a
kick behind. These straightway fled to me with their dishonour,
and declared themselves irreparably insulted, and unable to proceed.
Having witnessed the whole scene, our sympathies were all with
the spirited Mussulman, who had only given two rogues their
due ; but we could hardly dispense with the interpreter. Luckily,
the porter solved our embarrassment by himself requesting his
discharge. We found that, on the purchase of a couple of mules
here for a hundred and thirty taels, Francois and the makotou had
pocketed thirteen taels as commission ; and similar jobbery went on
in other matters. To be robbed with our eyes open seemed inevit-
able : we could get on ourselves without these knaves, but what
sort of information could we hojje to extract without them in

this wretched country !

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SSUMAO TO TALI

However, we got off at last with a brace of soldiers lent
us by the mandarin to carry a letter of recommendation to the
village chiefs. Four routes led to the Mekong ; we chose that
going most directly westward, leaving our northing to be made
more gradually. On quitting the plain of Ssumao we entered a
pretty country, where the sun's rays lit up hills covered with pine
clumps and valleys fully cultivated, and the air was fresh and

White Rocks in Valley.

cool on green lawns. The first night out we slept beneath a

pagoda, defaced with plaster deities grotesquely streaked, and

seeming in vain to assay our terrors with their threefold regard.

What a miserable conception the Chinese have made of their

pantheon ! It is hard to comprehend how they have distorted

the fine ideas of Buddha by representations that are nothing but

shameful, repellent, and debased.

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Half the next day was spent in the search for some of our
best mules, stolen during the night. We blamed the makotou,
and the makotou blamed us ; but we only recovered one whose
legs were hobbled, with the slender satisfaction of sending back
the soldiers to report the theft to the mandarin at Ssumao.

In the evening of the 13th (April) we sighted a high range
of terraced limestone cliffs with long crests broken into isolated
peaks, cones, and spurs, amid a sea of pines ; a wild chaos of
piled rock like that which strikes the eye of the traveller in
the Kai-Kinh, between Phu-lang-tuon and Langson. We doubled
the chain, and halted in a Pai village. The scenery we were
in was strange. Imagine a devil's punch -bowl, wide and deep,
the green centre embossed with grey stones and shadowy pines,
while its sides were lined with tasselled lianas and clinging plants.
The vegetation, which was thick and soft below, changed as
it reached the ridge, and took the ruder character of its sur-
roundings. Gaunt rocks thrust forth white and naked heads,
detached yuccas lifted their broomstick tufts against the sky-
line ; aloes and hundred-handed cacti roughened the rim. The
impenetrable bush harboured many wild animals — stags, roe-
buck, bears, and they picked up and showed us the horn of
a goat.

The inhabitants told of a grotto hard by, which is the

object of pilgrimages from Ssumao and Pou-eul-Fou. We found

it a deep excavation in the limestone hill. A small chamber at its

mouth served as a residence for two guardians, whence descended

a stair into a spacious hall in which were two very ordinary

pagodas with yellow hangings, scented joss-sticks, and some

sufficiently vile and many-coloured statuettes of Buddha. With

a torch we were led into an inner cave, which contained a number

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SSUMAO TO TALI

of rather fine stalactites, like organ pipes. The Chinese, who
make marvels of mites, see gods in these, before which Franqois
failed not to prostrate himself. Some certainly bore a distant
resemblance to dragons and elephants, and one was curious as
producing a hollow sound when struck. The guide spared us
none of these prodigies, so that we gained the upper air with relief.
No doubt it is an interesting cavern, but not to be compared
with those of Laos and Pakai below Luang-Prabang.

In the evening- the villao-ers, exultant in the violent death
of a pig, danced before us. The performers, four in number,
joined hands and alternately contracted and expanded in a circle,
afterwards separating as in a quadrille. Their movements were
supple, and in cadence to a double-stringed guitar. The women
remained as spectators. They had a different dress to any we
had before seen, being of a horizontally striped material wound
round the figure for petticoat, with a short loose jacket fastened
at the side, and a large turban crossed in front, something after
the fashion of the Alsatian knot, and falling in flaps behind.
The lobe of the ear was pierced with a large wooden spindle.
These little Pai ladies with their pale tinge were less unattractive
than the Chinese ; Sao, at least, found them more to his taste ;
but to us they were very wild. The evening ended in song.
The troubadour wailed in falsetto, imitating a woman, beginning
each strophe with a high note which gradually died away ; then,
a pause, and da capo. After a bit it was monotonous.

On the 15th (April) we were fairly in Pai country. The people
said they came here many years back from the vicinity of Yiinnan-
Sen. It was curious to meet here, as among the Lolos, with folk
who had come from the north and east, rolled back by the Chinese
into the refuge of the mountains of Yunnan, which seems to have

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

been for many of the native races what Thibet has proved to certain
animals — an asylum rather than a creative centre.

At Long-tang, the next evening's halt, we found the village en
fete for the marriage of the toussou's daughter. We made ourselves
at home in a pagoda, a regular Laos temple with pointed wooden
roof, red pillars, and door garnished with gold and silver arabesques.
The interior exhibited the votive table, bronze candlestick, and
altar with marble or gilt Buddhas draped in yellow under large
umbrellas. Behind the gods were three stone cones stained red,
and in a corner the chair whence the priests spoke. Banners,
scarves, and streamers with long inscriptions overhung the platform.
The night in this abode of sanctity was marred by the devotions of
the rats, which left us not a moment's peace. Nor were they the
only nuisance in Long-tang. Contrary to our experience among
the Laotians, the inhabitants, steeped in copious libations, became
more inquisitive and familiar than was pleasant. They were of an
individual type, and nowhere in China proper had we met with such
independence of manner. Had it not been for the presence of the
men of our own troop, we should not have known we were within
the Celestial empire.

As in Laos, the bonzes were distinguished by a long yellow toga,
shaved heads, and a string of beads in their hands. The laity wore
their hair in a knot at the back or side of the head, with or without
a cotton turban of red or yellow design. The queue was discarded
as a mark of emancipation. Almost every man we met was tattooed
in blue from the waist to the knee, so thickly as to give the appear-
ance of pantaloons. Others, like the Burmese, had figures or
dragons in red, enclosed within a rectangular pattern, on the breast.
In physiognomy their eyes were straight, complexion bronzed, fore-
head slightly prominent, lower part of the face shapely, with small

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SSUMAO TO TALI

mouth, and here and there a moustache or scanty whiskers ; but the
Hps were thick and the teeth blackened. Betel chewing was the
fashion. They were clothed in a short vest and either wide blue
and white trousers down to the feet, ornamented with blue, red, or
yellow stripes, or simple blue woollen drawers. All had the lobe of
the ear pierced and enlarged as a receptacle for flowers, or dried
leaves, which served them as cigarette papers. There were also a
few large hats of soft straw to be seen. Many displayed from a
vest button or the ear a thin silver disc with Chinese characters,
presents from the military mandarin at Ssumao to the soldiers of the
toussou. An unusual thing about the houses of this place was that,
instead of being on piles, as is customary among the Pais, the walls
rested upon the earth and the half cone roofs of russet thatch
descended to within three feet of the ground. They looked like
molehills or an African village.

Taking a turn by the banks of the river, where the women were
bathing as on the Mekong, I met our escort returning from Ssumao,
without the mules. They brought a line from the mandarin dis-
suading us from going among the tribes of the Mekong, where, he
said, we should encounter sickness and robbers. This terrible
prospect caused Francois to spit blood and tremble. In the evening
we had to open a consulting-room for the folk who flocked to us
even from a distance for remedies. Besides the villagers, our own
men were suffering from a variety of ailments, and were difficult to
tend. Say what we might, they would not keep their sores or
wounds from the air. Sao's legs being in a bad state, we gave him
some carbolic acid. Presently the most doleful howls w-ere heard.
He had thought to effect a quicker cure by applying the acid
undiluted to the raw, with dire results. We tried to alleviate
his anguish with ashes, white of egg, and honey, and, after

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

suffering a night of martyrdom, he got better, and the self-inflicted
cauterisation contributed to a rapid recovery.

As we again approached the Mekong, present misery and future
fears caused several desertions among the mafous, with whom, un-
fortunately, some of our effects also usually disappeared. We experi-
enced a feeling akin to elation on regaining the banks of the great
Asiatic river on which our campaigns, our old advanced claims, and
our explorations have bequeathed so many rights to France. With
its name are indissolubly linked those of the dauntless men who gave
their lives to establish French supremacy in its valley, from Manhat,
Lagree, and Massie, down to the unknown heroes of the Thibet
Mission. Athwart its waves that rolled their waters from the far
Thibetan snows, my mind's eye caught the three colours of our flag ;
and there arose before me the record of conquest in all its steps.
First, the acquisition of Cochin China in the south ; the rule of the
admirals ; then the advance northwards into the interior ; the ex-
plorations ; the mighty task begun by Lagree and ended by Garnier ;
with the excursions of Manhat, Harmand, N^ris, and how many
others! Possessions increased; the Indo-Chinese empire was
created ; Annam was placed under our protectorate ; and whilst we
let Upper Burmah escape us in the west, in the east our troops
sealed the work of Jean Dupuy by giving us Tonkin. In face
of England's ever-growing appetite, Jules Ferry made certain re-
servations relative to the Mekong valley ; but years passed, and the
territory which statesmen had acquired was like to be lost again.
Backed by the English, Siam stood at the door of Hue, whilst tracts
on the left bank of the Mekong were counterclaimed by the English
Foreign Office. Our timorous diplomacy, clogged by the fear of
complications, seemed unable to grasp the situation. It needed a
death like Massie's, or a bold stroke, such as that of Commander

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SSUMAO TO TALI

Bary, to arouse the apathy of the Ouai d'Orsay. The Siamese
troops were dislodged, and the idea of a buffer State was abandoned.
We have made an end of backsHdinor.

A diplomatic victory has been gained ; we must guard
against an industrial defeat. Our neighbours, who know full
well that railways are the means of real colonisation, think to
establish a line running from Mandalay in the direction of Xien-
hong (Kiang-Hung). Nay more, the first rails have been laid.
It imports us to retort to this new move of England with a similar
one of our own ; and to this end it is absolutely necessary for us
also to have a railway penetrating China. We have a long
lead in the matter of position ; but again I repeat, beware of
the fable of the hare and the tortoise. It is impossible to
forecast the future. But a moment may be predicted when the
framework of China will fall to pieces, and then, — first come
first served, — those that have the best perfected scheme of
communication will win.

With these and similar reflections I solaced the period of
delay until the whole caravan arrived. We then set about crossing
the Mekong at Notcha Tian-pi, which was effected by relays in
two ferry-boats 55 feet by 6i feet, and was rendered arduous by
the height of the freeboard, which called for jumping qualities
in the mules, which all did not possess. The craft were
managed by two sweeps 23 feet long — one in the stern like a
rudder, worked by three men ; the other athwartships forward,
with seven men on it.

The river here ran at the base of steep hills, between shores
of sandstone and quartz, on which I once more noted the pretty
dwarf palm, like the sycas, though with more delicate leaves,
that I had observed in Upper Tonkin. The depth was consider-

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

able, for the boatmen could not touch bottom, the current
running two knots an hour ; but both above and below there
were rapids of far greater strength. Its breadth at the time of
our crossing (i8th April) varied from 119 yards to 162 yards.
In the rains there is a rise of upwards of 39 feet, and its width
then must be over 200 yards. The water was cold, 66°'2 Fahr.,

Liiibarkalion of Mules at Notcha Tian-pi.

whilst the shade temperature of the air stood at 95°. I had

remarked this chill before, when comparing its waters at Pakai

with those of the Nam Ou.

At Notcha Tian-pi there was a little Chinese post for the

customs on tea coming from the right bank, Mong-hai, Mong-se,

and Mong-yang ; duty, one to two "tens" the hundred Chinese

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SSUMAO TO TALI

kilos. The officials told us the rapids precluded any down-stream
traffic, but that there were sixteen points of crossing between
this and Tali above, and one a day's march below, at Kang-
tang, for Manga-nan.

There were plenty of fish in the river and animals on shore ;
among the latter, report spoke of a wild mule with short horns.
I fancy this to have been the nemorrhcEdus, which we had
already heard of at Ta-tsien-lou, under the description of the
"rock ass"; but the delay of at least a week on the chance of
obtaining a skin did not allow of our verifying it. Peacocks
and green paroquets were numerous, though I did not recognise
any more of the pretty palceornis derbyanis so frequent around
Batang.

The Laotian name Mekong was naturally unknown to the
natives ; the river in this part of Yunnan bearing the generic
designation of Ta-kiang, or "great stream." At each point where
we touched it we met with a separate title, commonly made
by adding the suffix " kiang " to the name of the spot of
crossing ; thus, here, Kiou-lan-kiang.

Being now upon the right bank, we entered the Lochai Sing
(mountain of the Lochais). A few years ago these people were
at war with the Chinese, though now reported quiet, and subject
to the Tcheuping-ting, or mandarin of Tcheuping, near Mong-
yang. After a short stage, on the 19th (April) we passed
through the important Chinese village of Dayakeu, where the
chief would have constrained us to stop, and our makotou and
mafous exhausted every artifice to the same end. To our
surprise, and the credit of the Ssumao mandarin, be it recorded
that two soldiers overtook us here with our recovered mules
— an agreeable and singular contrast to the usual measure of
G 97

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

«

Chinese assistance. We observed in Dayakeu some blocks of
tin brought from Tcho-tchieu, five days westward, and learned
that a little less than a ton yearly is disposed of in this district.

nfflBBSK/-

Trade is also carried on in blue linen stuff from Ssumao, pipe

tobacco from Canton, and stag horns. Rude implements for

the carding of cotton were likewise met with, and a musical

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SSUMAO TO TALI

instrument made out of a gourd, into which five bamboo tubes
pierced with holes were fitted.

The Lochais are a small race, with retreating foreheads and
low cast of countenance. The women dress in a long Chinese
robe, divided into three pleats behind over trousers, the sleeves
are lined with red, and a couple of red-bordered aprons fall in
front, a larger above a smaller. Out of doors they assume a
small sleeveless jacket, studded with silver. Their head -gear
is a large blue turban. When this is removed, a false impression
of height is given to their brows, from the habit of shaving the
front and sides of the head like the Chinese.

The " Doctor " had got ahead of us the preceding day, and
we now came up with him in great tribulation. A mafou, while
sunk in an opium sleep beneath a tree, had allowed the mule
to stray that carried all his notes and scientific observations.
By this time, of course, the chances were they had been
pillaged, and must be recovered at all costs. Leaving him at
the spot for this purpose, we moved on slowly, and with
frequent halts.

A wooden bridge, over a deep and beautiful river, served as
shelter for our midday meal. Two massive diagonal beams,
almost meeting in the centre, upheld the thatch - covered way,
to which a wicket at either end, occupied by a Chinese janitor,
lent access without toll. The bridge, gilded by the sun. framed
a lovely picture, where the water flashed between grey-pointed
rocks and stunted palms, overhung by the orchid-laden branches
of the larger trees. Beneath the bank lay a bamboo raft, on
which the descent of the river could be made at flood, in three
days, to the Mekong. We threw a couple of dynamite
cartridges into the stream, and caught a number of fish, to the

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astonishment and delight of our men ; it was pleasant to see a
little cheerfulness among them for a change.

Roux did not turn up when we paused for the night at
Chian-na-liang (?) ; and now we missed Nam, who had lost his
way between our two parties. Villagers were sent out to scour
the bush. They styled themselves Lolos, though just like the
Lochais of the day before. We employed ourselves in watching
one of them milling cotton, for which he used a contrivance
consisting of two rollers placed on a frame before which he sat.
The upper was of wood revolving with a hand-winch, the under
of iron, of less diameter, and made to rotate at great speed by
a treadle. Between them the cotton fell into a basket, and the
seeds remained above.

Before turning in, I looked in on the sleeping quarters of
our men. In the middle of the room were laid the materials
for opium-smoking — lamp, snuffers, and pipe. Francois and the
makotou, naked to the waist, reclined with some Lolos upon
osier stools, and all were steadily stupefying themselves. In
one corner a dishevelled, half- clad woman turned her spinning-
wheel with measured creak ; presently she desisted, and stretched
herself, with a baby at her breast, upon a plank beneath a coarse
coverlet, while the men conversed in low tones in Chinese or
more guttural Lolo — a strange scene, lit by some bits of resinous
wood upon the ground. From below came the chirrup of a
cricket, and an occasional impatient shake of a cattle - bell, that
spoke the mafous stirring as they tethered the mules tighter
against night robbers. Our orders were strict upon this head, for
recent experience had taught us watchfulness.

Next morning, the 21st (April), still no news of Nam, and
only bad of Roux. He had found the mule ; the pack was gone.

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SSUMAO TO TALI

We decided on a short stage, to keep going, as far as tlie Lolo
village of La -li- chin. Here, before night -fall, to our no small
relief, a search-party brought in poor old Nam, none the worse
for his wanderings and a night spent in a tree, save for the
terror of panthers and an empty stomach. For the following
day we stayed where we were, among an interesting set of
people. They said they were Lolos or Chiantines, settlers here
from the West two hundred years previous, but declared they
had no books, and were not of the same stock as the Lolos who
had. Little information, religious or other, could be got out of
them, save that to the west there were the Kawas, the lekawas,
who resembled the Pais. (These are, probably, Shans or Laotians
of Upper Burmah.) Wandering about their village, I gradually
overcame their shyness, and excited their interest in a picture-
book of the Abbe David. They also recognised the Lady
Amherst pheasant, which they pronounced common in the vicinity,
and showed me how they trapped quail by means of a decoy in
a wicker basket. The ground is utilised to the hilltops, and after
dark the clearing fires were visible creeping up the mountain-sides.
The women were weavers after a primitive fashion by means of
a shuttle and two wooden pedals for the woof; and all used the
familiar spinning-wheel of the country.

At our request, the villagers consented to dance at night,
and acquitted themselves in more varied and original sets than
the Pais. Men and women joined in a circle round two musicians,
who gave time and tune upon their gourd instruments, while an
old man regulated the figures from without. The movements
were executed in complete harmony with the measure : swaying
now this way, now that, waving their arms, poising for a moment
on one leg, then, striking the ground in cadence all together,

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

the ring broke up into vis-a-vis, to advance and to retire, or to
change sides by intervals. I was struck by the uniformity of
the dancers, who would have cut a very respectable figure in
any western assemblage. They are passionately fond of the art,
and sometimes it takes the form of a regular stampede, a wild
saraband accompanied by cries, but ever under control of perfect
time. The Lolos seemed indefatigable ; they could go on for
hours, and, like the generality of uncivilised races, were naturally
graceful in their pose. Seen through the haze of dust that rose
from the flitting figures in the torchlight, the whole was like a
magic-lantern or kaleidoscope.

On the 23rd (April) we left our sociable Lolos, with a few
parting gifts. They refused utterly to accept any human like-
ness, even the most seductive chromo-lithographs, which I attribute
to some superstitious fear.

The same day Roux happily rejoined us. He had gained
the co-operation of the mandarin of Dayakeu, and with the offer
of a reward had the mountain systematically searched by beating-
parties of seven men under leaders. To a fellow with a goitre
belonged the honour of first discovery of their object, and the
firing of guns soon brought the others to the spot. The baggage
was hidden in the brake. It was found intact, save for one lens
of the astronomic telescope ; and great was our companion's joy,
for the results of four hundred and thirty-seven miles of explora-
tion were involved. All's well that ends well ; but to guard
against a similar danger, duplicates and tracings were always made
in future.

The country we were passing through was tame by com-
parison, and the route fair ; hillocks with scrub, and hollows with

coppice and large trees, but no birds or flowers to note, nor

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anything to break the tedious monotony. At midday on the
24th (April) the " Doctor " again left us, with one attendant, for
Mong-pan and Mong-ka, down on the right bank of the Mekong.
This few days' digression would enable him to settle several
points in the course of the river.

On descending from some higher spurs we reached a gently

■^^/^T-

^ ^-''^7

Roiix at Work.

sloping tableland, and the road became more frequented. First

we met a caravan of cotton, then some rice grinders, and a

soldier carrying his sword in bandolier, and on his shoulder in

place of a gun a bamboo, from the end of which dangled a green

paroquet in a hoop. The plateau was enclosed by hills and

bordered by two ravines, and resembled in its formation a glacier

with its moraines. At the farther extremity the big village of

10;

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Tachin - lao hung upon the edge of a precipitous gorge.
Tachin-lao was surrounded by a rectangular enceinte of mud
walls, lo feet to 15 feet high, loopholed but not embattled.
Within, the houses were spacious and built of one storey on a
bamboo framework. As the majority of the population was
Chinese, we were not a little surprised that they held aloof and
left us in peace in our Buddha-daubed pagoda. The government
was in the joint hands of a mandarin, who was a Ting, and a
toussou for the Lochais.

We heard that a few days before our arrival an Englishman
had been here, travelling from Ava in Burmah towards Mong-
pan and Mong-ka. He was engaged in marking the mountains
and rivers like ourselves, and had been seeking information.
This must have been the same that was at Ssumao before us.
Here he only crossed our path, and our route to the north was
still, as we hoped, untouched. Before leaving in the morning
two little mandarins dismounted at our pagoda and entered. An
attendant placed scented joss-sticks before the three altars and
spread carpets for his masters, who proceeded to prostrate them-
selves and kneel, while a third personage recited some prayers
in a loud voice. This ceremony lasted several minutes, after
which the mandarins turned their backs on their gods and
settled themselves to the enjoyment of their water pipes with
the air of men who had done their duty.

From the heiohts which we now followed we obtained a good

view of the features of the landscape about this part of the Mekong.

We looked across a gorge so deep and abrupt that its bottom

was not immediately visible, and over the top of the opposite

ridge on to a succession of large valleys and chains running in

parallel tiers to the glen at our feet. The aspect of the country

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SSUMAO TO TALI

sufficed to make us feel the proximity of a large though unseen
body of water, and the depression which we skirted may be
likened to the mid-rib of a leaf from which the membranes,
here represented by the lesser chains, diverged. The left slope
was sparsely wooded and thinly peopled ; on our side good-
sized villages were frequent. We were still among the Lochais,
and got on very well with these gentry of the red-stained teeth ;
at least Briffaud and I had no cause of complaint, save the
absence of honey, which the natives do not gather at this
season on account of the bees pasturing on an unwholesome
white flower. The makotou, however, was found storming and
weeping and cursing by turns over the theft of his pipe, which
eventually betrayed itself sticking out of a bland native's pocket.
The way these Chinese shed tears over trifles was deplorable.
They are perfect babies.

A torrent turned us down towards the Mekong again, and we
touched it a little below the confluence of a considerable river
called the S^-kiang. The waters of the Mekong here ran low
between sandy shores, varying in width from 87 yards to twice
that distance, but rocks marked high - water level up to
217 and even 325 yards. The hills had sunk to insignifi-
cance, and trees stood out upon them as thin as the bristles
on an elephant's forehead. At sundown we observed women
from the villages climbing the slopes with boughs in their
hands, like the moving wood at Dunsinane. Each had a hollow
bamboo filled with stones with which they imitated the sound
of the kestrel, and attracted to the branch numbers of grass-
hoppers, which are here esteemed a delicacy.

On the 28th (April) we made the passage of the Se-kiang on
a triangular raft built of a single layer of bamboo. When loaded

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

this was warped up stream, and then let go diagonally with the
current, a man aft checking it with a large rectangular paddle.
Whilst this was in progress I watched the natives at break-
fast : the men ate first Chinese fashion, seated on stools
round a wicker table, the women after, taking the rice in their
fingers.

On the other side of the S^-kianq- we began to ascend a<>ain.

Rafl on the Se-kian^.

Now that we were far from towns, the mafous were working

creditably. Although very fair walkers, their calves were not

much developed. On the march they were just like children,

singing and whistling ; but their chief joy lay in the pipe, water

or ordinary, which they passed from mouth to mouth. One

amused us by persistently flourishing in one hand an open

umbrella, acquired from Nam in exchange for a hat, and in the

other a fan, without preventing his also bearing his fair share of

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SSUMAO TO TALI

the burdens. Our own boys proved good body servants : Nam
managed with only four hours' regular sleep ; but then in his
ordinary avocations he took three hours over what anyone else
would do in one ; his cooking was certainly that of a somnam-
bulist. Briffaud and I generally kept together ; and between
inventing imaginary feasts, singing trooper ditties, and chatting,
in addition to our collections, photographs, and notes, we quickly
passed the miles away.

By the 29th (April) we were passing through beautiful
scenery, the country of the Pou Mas, near akin to the Pais.
Wayfarers were frequent ; often we came upon those squares of
cut paper that being burnt on roadside altars invoked propitious
journeys. Before I came to know them well I used to think the
Chinese an indifferent and sceptical race ; now they seemed to me
particularly superstitious. At four in the afternoon, on my over-
taking the caravan, I found it halted. The old guide Panella
refused to proceed, and, with many protestations, tried to make
us take back the mandarin's village letter of introduction.

o

Finding us obdurate, he laid it down and seated himself sadly on
the grass, whence it took three mafous to set him going again.
The very next place we entered, the crafty old fox seized on the
first young man he met, thrust the letter into his unsuspecting
hand, and, without explanation or adieu, stole away. His im-
promptu successor led us to a small Lochai hamlet on. a brow
with a splendid prospect. But the Hotel Bellevue, as we chris-
tened our hovel, afforded little else but a feast for the eyes, and
we went hungry to bed. To bed, but not to sleep ; for the in-
habitants, to complete their inhospitality, kept on the prowl the
livelong night, peering and vanishing and always crouching as

they crept about with their resinous torches, till we thought we

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

had fallen among gnomes or hobgoblins. In the daylight they
were less insidious, and testified the greatest interest in our writ-
ing and in the leather of our saddles. At the next Lochai
village the natives called themselves Lachos, and claimed to have
been there ninety years. We wished we could have procured a
specimen of Lochai writing, which they told us was in the old

Little I'agoda on Hill.

Chinese characters as used on the mandarins' seals. From
Tamano, a place about the same size as Tachin-lao, our men
began to step out, scenting an approach to Mienning from afar.
Near our sleeping-place we saw the site of two ancient forts, one
said to date from a century back. The people gave further inter-
esting particulars about the Lochais, averring that they came, like

the Lolos, from near Nang-king ages ago. They made use of a

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SSUMAO TO TALI

small yellow immortelle, which grew in quantities, for food ; the
flower, leaves, and stalk were thrown into a pot, boiled till soft,
and eaten.

Villages became thicker along the dale as we advanced. A
Chinese horseman, followed by a tattered soldier bearing his pipe
and red visiting-card portfolio, joined us on the road and showed
us the way. He proved to be the chief of the district of
Linguen. His voice was rougher than his manners, and through
his instrumentality we enjoyed a degree of relative comfort in
our next quarters at Chang-lin-gang, to which we had long been
strangers.

May opened propitiously for us in the midst of the most
delightful scenery and climate. We were at this time traversing
a valley of which the northern slope a little above us rose in an
abrupt scarp like a lofty green wall. The panorama, unfolded
before each successive eminence, gave us an admirable idea of the
lay of the land. The Mekong flowed only a mile or so away,
on our right. Between this valley and that of an affluent of the
Salwen stood a range of low hills, and we were surprised to find
so unimposing a barrier between two such large neighbour rivers.
In the course of our stage on the 2nd (May) to Pochan we
passed an extensive cemetery in which all the tombs lay facing
east, with their entries to the south ; they had the appearance of
a herd of crouching: animals, oreat and grim. At Pochan, which
is a large Chinese village at a part where the valley widens
almost to a plain, we found Roux arrived only a few hours
before from Tapong, after a successful excursion among the Pais
of Mong-pan and Mong-ka.

We reached Mienning on the 3rd (May), pitched, like

Ssumao, on rising ground, and surrounded by grey battlements.

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Without the walls fruit-trees grew in abundance ; peaches, plums,
pears, and pomegranates. Although the climate struck us as
healthy, and the nights were cool, the inhabitants seemed much
afflicted with goitre.

Disagreeable news awaited us at this place, to the effect that
the English traveller before mentioned had already been here,
coming from Yiinchou by the way we had intended to take.
This meant that we must seek another line.

Our stay at Mienning, though not of long duration, was quite
enough for our enjoyment. We were badly housed in dingy and
stifling quarters under the eaves, looking out into a crowded
court. Food was scarce, and, if we e.xcept some fair Chinese
fritters, which we sampled at a pastrycook's, was limited to pork,
owing to the prohibition of the slaughter of oxen, which were
kept exclusively for labour. The surrounding population was
mostly Pai, and a petty village headman was found to give us
directions as to the route. He was no better than an old free-
booter, and informed us that he had been a leader on the Bur-
mese frontier, but that some English having been killed by the
natives, the regrettable occurrence had been laid at his door, and
he had had to make himself scarce. This individual showed con-
siderable local familiarity with the country ; but when he pro-
ceeded to discourse further upon geography, and unfolded a Chinese
map to assure us that the Mekong flowed to Canton and Chang-
hai, we thanked him, and said that would do for the present.

Actinv on his instructions, we resolved to make an elbow bv the
side of the Mekong, thus avoiding the Englishman's tracks. The
soldiers lent us by the mandarin could not grasp the idea that we
were engaged in " sialon," nor was it worth while to enlist their
sympathy with the aims and ambitions of exploration.

I lO

SSUMAO TO TALI

The usual difficulties attending a start were increased by the
irritating dalliance of the makotou, whose incessant iteration of the
words " mai " (buy) and " injen " (money) nearly drove us mad.
The avarice of the man was but one of his faults. The chief part
of every night he gave up to his besetting vice of opium-smoking,
emerging in the morning with blear and swollen eyes to enter upon
an arduous march, in which he would have to busy himself, keep
the mules going, and superintend the loads, all generally performed
with an open sore on his leg. It was marvellous what the
dominating greed of gain and self-indulgence would enable such
a being to carry through when he was inevitably approaching the
premature exhaustion of his vital forces. Franqois and he were two
typical real Chinese, and furnished in daily intercourse a perfect
sample of what goes to make up the essence of the Chinese
character in its few redeeming features, hideous vices, and in-
surmountable failings. It is narrated of certain pecaris, that if
a traveller takes refuge from their charge in a tree, they will
beleaguer the trunk till he drops among them from exhaustion.
The Chinese always gave me the idea of these wild boars. To see
them seated below us immovable throughout a whole day, scarce
stirring their hands save to fill the water pipe, or their jaws to
exchange a few words, they seemed doggedly to await something
from our hands which they would not get. If one dispersed them,
they immediately reclosed their ranks as before. Like as the people,
such are their rulers : what possible impression can our diplomatists,
using the methods of civilised nations, make upon this gelatinous
mass, or what hold can be taken of that which continuallj- slips
through one's fingers ?

Throughout the day we followed the valley of the Nan-Ting-ho,

which forms a complete basin around Mienning. The rice swamps

1 1 1

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

were full of women at work, up to their waists in the water, whilst
elsewhere men standing upon their harrows with lean legs out-
stretched, like 'bus conductors, guided their buffaloes as in some
ancient Egyptian design. At the end of several hours we
discovered that we were not going east towards Kubi-kiang, as we
should have been, but were gaily pursuing the main Yunchou
route, already traversed by the English party. The caravan was
halted, amid the protestations of the mafous that they knew no
other road. We were not going to be done in this way — " to a
Chinese, a Chinese and a half" Accordingly camp was formed for
the night where we were, and the clear moonlight among the rice
and trees soothed us for the vexation of two days lost.

Next morning, the 6th (May), back on our tracks almost as far
as Mienning to find the little path. The makotou was at his old
tricks again, but with Sao's aid his little game was unmasked. He
had discharged two mafous and substituted a couple of traders,
who, by smuggling their stuff into our train, thus hoped to evade
the octroi at Tali. There was no end to their chicanery, and our
change of road had nicely upset their calculations.

But retribution of a different sort awaited the makotou before
the day was out. Scarcely had we lit our evening pipes and were
contemplating the first blue wreaths of smoke, while the fleas began
to climb our supine limbs, when a hubbub arose among our men,
who came running towards us with cries of " makotou, Lohiang,
todzan ! " (knife). Hastening down, we found the makotou bleeding
profusely from several wounds, and it was some little time ere we
could learn the facts of the case. It will be remembered that some
time back a mafou called Manhao had been maltreated b)- the
makotou under the suspicion of a theft. A repetition of the robbery
having just been traced to a second mafou seemed to indicate the

I 12

SSUMAO TO TALI

latter as the perpetrator of both acts. Thereupon Manhao, or
Lohiang as he was equally called, heaping reproaches on the
makotou for his former brutality, enforced his innocence by driving
his knife into his persecutor three times, cutting him up rather
badly on his arm and both legs, though luckily without touching
an artery. He then fled. Here was another trait of Chinese
character — revenge sullenly nursed for a month and a half.

We washed and dressed the wounds with antiseptics, in which
operation Sao again acquitted himself with credit. The rest of the
Chinese looked on with indifference, if not with satisfaction,
notably Francois, who gave his version of the story as rather
entertaining than otherwise. The callousness of these fellows for
each other was exasperating. How different from our Turkomans
at Lob-Nor, tending old sick Imatou like a child, and showing
lively concern for his suffering !

The following morning the scene was even more revolting. The

makotou declared that he would go back on horseback at once, but

finally yielded with a bad grace to my advice that he should rest a

bit. Then he began about payment. This man, reduced as he was

by fever, found strength to get up and drag himself before us ; and

there with blood-smeared face and legs caked with gore, propped

against a pack-saddle, he proceeded with palsied hands to haggle

over his interests with such greed and tenacity as might have

induced one to suppose he had nothing but a shilling-piece in the

place where his heart ought to be. First he wanted us to give him

the wages for his men. For a long time past we had paid these

direct, in consequence of his cheating them : so that cock wouldn't

fight. Then he accused them of being in his debt. We made each

come singly with an account of the sum claimed. But by this time

we were implacable to his subterfuges, and I verily believe that if
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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

we had had much more of this sort of work we should have learned
to meet the Chinese upon their own ground. As it was, I was dis-
gusted and tired of having any dealings with these rapacious
scoundrels, whose every breath, word, and thought was money,
money, money ; from those who would see a comrade wounded
without a sign of compassion beyond a shrug of the shoulders, down
to the interpreter, who, at the makotou's departure, stripped the
very cap off his head because it was new, and because "he would
have no need of it now that he had ceased to serve the Tajen."
The Chinese have a big lesson to learn from themselves. For my
own part 1 now knew more than enough of them, and hastened the
time when we should get away from their sordid, contemptible
natures to live among lawless savages and brigands, who at least
would have one respectable attribute of freedom or personal pride.

Having given the title and functions of makotou to a young fellow
in the troop called Lichatan, we resumed our journey, and passed
the remainder of the day climbing the larch and oak-covered hills
that marked the interval between the Mekong and the Salwen
basins. We camped in the open.

The event of the 8th (May) was the meeting with a few sheep.

We had not seen any for two months, and our stomachs yearned

at the sight. To point out a " p^ i ang " (white sheep) to

Chantzeu, strike a bargain with the shepherd, and to have it strapped

on Fa's shoulders was the work of no time. As when the Ainos

kill a bear they celebrate the event and call it the Bear Feast, so

we, almost as hirsute as the "sons of dogs," now held the Feast

of Sheep, and revelled in the varied dressings of the unwonted

food, which we wetted with Japanese wine and finished with

coffee and "real Habanas " of our own manufacture.

As we marched next day still up the Mekong valley the track

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SSUMAO TO TALI

deteriorated into gravel and loose stones, among which the mules
fell about a good deal. In the glittering sands formed by the
detrition of the felspar granite Nam thought he had found gold,
to Sao's derision when it proved but mica. By midday we had
ascended to a narrow terrace on which we baited. The packs
were ranged round the edge like a parapet, within which the
men, mostly stripped to the waist, bestirred themselves to hang
the big pot and the general tea-kettle upon forked sticks over the
crackling fire, where presently the rice began to bubble. In a
corner Nam turned a leg of mutton on a bamboo spit, and some
natives with an offering of honey sat silent by watching our
every movement over their pipes. The scene had for outlook
the whole valley of the Mekong, with crests and curves and pine
woods of its middle distance swellinof further to larger heights
that towered on the horizon into a fleecy cloudland. The effect
was the grander from the drop which met the eye sharp off our
brink into the bottom far below. We found the flora richer as
we advanced ; beside pine, walnut, and peach trees grew the
plantain, pomegranate, and palm, and on the trunks of the hardy
northerners clung that beautiful creeper called Manolerra deliciosa,
which I had first seen in Ceylon. Birds flew among the branches,
and afforded varied subjects to the collector's gun. We heard of
peacocks even in this latitude. It was an amusing sight of an
evening to watch the flocks of paroquets homing in the big
trees by some pagoda, the first arrivals calling with shrill clamour
to the belated ones as they hurried in from the depths of the
woods.

On the nth (May) we entered the region of Mong Ma, whose
people were chiefly Pai', as evidenced at the approach to the large
village of Ta-tse-kai by the lozenge - shaped bamboo erections

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against evil spirits. In the streets were to be seen several
yellow - robed young bonzes, and as it was market-day a con-
siderable rabble was attracted by our passage ; but it was orderly,
and in many cases the pedestrians did reverence to us. We
could not help laughing at the figure cut by our soldier escort,
who, in addition to carrying the traditional parasol in bandolier,
wore in guise of martial casque an inverted rice kettle, like
Mambrino's helmet, on his pate.

In the midst of the fields hereabouts there often rose circular
mounds planted with large trees and occasionally enclosed by
walls. The summit usually contained two or three tombs.
These barrows were very like the menhirs and dolmens seen
in Brittany, where they are called "fairy rings," or like the
cromlechs in parts of England.

On riding into camp in the evening I saw Briffaud and Nam
coming towards me with evident tidings of annoyance. In
defiance of my injunctions, the men, at the instigation of Francois,
had tried to stop in Ta-tse-kai, which intention Briffaud had
frustrated. Shortly after, he had again occasion to tell Francois
to recall some of the mafous from a wrong road, whereupon the
interpreter in good round French grossly insulted him. My
comrade at once jumped down, tumbled him off his nag, and
gave him a drubbing. The rascal called loudly on the mafous
for aid, and Briffaud promised that the first man to lay a finger
on him would get his head broken. On my arrival Francois
pretended that his abuse had been levelled at a Chinese mafou
and not at Briffaud, declared he was my interpreter and no one
else's, and concluded by declining to go any farther. " Very
good," said I, "make out your account."

Then Lichatan, the new makotou, approached with four mafous

ii6

SSUMAO TO TALI

and announced that they could no longer remain with us because
we beat the Chinese. At this juncture a new champion entered
the lists on our behalf in the person of Sao, who, understanding
Chinese, used it to such effect that, having at my suggestion gone
among the men and heard their tale, the mutineers were presently
brought back to reason and their allegiance. Of course Francois
was at the bottom of it all. He had spread falsehoods that
the assault had been unprovoked, and that we were brutes,
who were going to lead them into a country of brigands with-
out pay. Sao scattered this fabrication by the contemptuous
assurance that it was a bundle of lies, and that if they left us we
should simply get others in their place, who would jump at the
wages offered. Next morning Francois came with a discomfited
air to be paid, and then asked for a certificate, which I refused
point-blank. " But I have worked well," whined he. I rejoined
that that was not my experience, and, after judicially summing up
his many impertinences to his culminating act of insubordination,
dismissed him. So we were well rid of our odious interpreter, and
would have to make shift as best we might for the next fortnight
till we got to Tali. If our local information should be less, our
progress in elementary Chinese would be more.

During the 12th and 13th (May) we passed over a series of
unimportant hills from the bed of the Mong-ma-ta-ho, the course
of which we followed for a bit, to that of a swifter stream, the
Lan-cho-ho. On the 14th, in the morning, I escaped a nasty
accident. I was leading my mule over some rough planks that
spanned a shut-in torrent, when he slipped and fell into the rocky
chasm. I thought he must be killed, as he lay quite still ; but
these animals fall like cats, and it was not long before we had him
on his legs again. The same evening we crossed a strong river

117

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

by a wattled bridge, and entered the town of Yunchou. It was
night, and the streets were very animated, the people moving
about by the glimmer of paper lanterns, and making purchases of
fruit, grain, or fritters at shops lit by greasy lamps. In front of
most of the houses scented joss-sticks burned in honour of Buddha,
and looked from afar like glowing cigar ends. A maimed and
nasal betjorar trailed himself alons: the middle of the thorouohfare
holding out a wooden bowl, into which an occasional sapeck
rattled. Before one door twisted hangings of linen were draped
upon a frame, denoting that a wedding was about to take place.
Through this bustling scene we wended our way to an unusually
retired inn.

From Yunchou, on the morrow, we despatched a courier to
Tali. Meanwhile we descended into the town and expended
some money and bad Chinese on various purchases. We got
on with our bargaining very fairly considering, though the in-
cessant requisitions of our men in their efforts to delay the move
necessitated our submitting to a certain amount of fleecing. Still,
we were on the road again by the i6th (May), proceeding through
a fertile district of maize, sugar-cane, and rice. The grey and
white pagodas which we passed disclosed a series of interior courts
arranged in rectangular tiers like Thibetan Lamaserais or ancient
Jewish temples. But, on the whole, the country was monotonous,
and our chief diversion lay in observing the habits of our own
troop and of the natives whom we met. Among the former, Sao,
in addition to his other services, now helped us after a fashion as
an interpreter, and, on inquiry of us if we should have to do
with many more Chinese, ejaculated his usual pithy comment,
" Plenty stupid ! "

Numerous mule caravans crossed us, the leaders' heads adorned

ii8

SSUMAO TO TALI

with feathers of the Lady Amherst pheasant. Their loads for the
most part consisted of small wedges of iron, like bricks, sometimes of
bales of cotton. In one day we counted as many as one hundred and
fifty animals. Now and then a rising ground was capped by a mud-
built watch-tower, in shape like a three-sided sentry-box. lo feet high,

Carriers met on the Road.

with loopholes, probably relics of the Mussulman war. At greater

distances apart upon the hilltops rose obelisks of dazzling white

masonry. I rode up to one, and found it to be quadrilateral, about

40 feet high, surmounted by a ball, to which a prickly pear-tree had

by some means attached itself, perhaps seeded by the many black-

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

birds that flew around the monument. A little farther, to our no
small astonishment, we found ourselves face to face with three
elephants, busy eating the foliage. We hardly expected to see
these beasts in China, but were told they had been sent from
Mong-le, Ava way, only a year before.

Chunning-Fou next came in sight upon the lower face of the
hills above a torrent. Inside its grey and loopholed walls there
appeared but little life : its roomy houses, gardens, and wide
streets had the air of a quiet provincial town, and by contrast
with commercial Ssumao it suofgested in a minor degree the ratio
of Washington to New York. The people, too, were civil, and
we were positively able to joke with them ; so that it was a pleasure
to admit that all Chinese even are not cast in the same mould.

Two days more brought us again back to the bed of the
Mekong, here steep and deep and wooded in patches. We
made our way on the 20th (May) down to a bridge composed
of fourteen chains among rocks, which bore surface inscriptions
in Chinese. The mules crossed in single file ; but notwith-
standing that the planks were in fair repair, the oscillation slight,
and that two chains served as a handrail, the passage needed a
cool head. The locality chosen for this bridge over the Mekong
was a constricted reach sixty-seven paces, say from 48 yards to
54 yards across. The river widened again a little lower, but
was far from what it had been at Sien-kiang. The difference of
altitude, too, was great for its breadth, cliffs of 975 feet falling
steeply to the water's edge, with only a streak of sand at their
base. The water must be deep under them. As we climbed
the farther (eastern) side, I threw a glance back upon the river,
which this time we should leave for a considerable space. The

bridge emerging from and entering a little white-walled, grey-

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SSUMAO TO TALI

roofed Chinese gatehouse at either end had something light and
elegant yet withal daring in the way in which it was flung like
a gossamer ladder athwart the flood that flowed with sullen force
full 60 feet below. Confined as it was, the stream bore on its
face the evidence of restrained power, the might of the great
water which pours from north to south of Indo-China, to spread
with many affluents at last through Cambodia and Cochin China
over French territory. Once more, greeting to the vast river, over
and again purchased to France by the blood of her soldiers, by
the lives of her explorers, and by the achievements of diplomacy !

The march of the 21st (May) was only broken by an incident
that might have had a different termination. We were riding
along the brink of a sharp declivity, and Briffaud had just
remarked on the danger of a slip, when hardly were the words
uttered before I saw Sao fall from his mule and roll over and
over till caught by a bush 50 feet below. In a moment I
was off, and sliding down to his help as best I could. By little
short of a miracle he was found to have sustained no lasting
hurt : he had fallen asleep in the saddle, and had a wonderful
escape. Before halting in the evening we observed by the road-
side a sort of ijallows, from which was hung; a basket with what
seemed the queue of a Chinese sticking out of it. An inscription
warned the passer-by that this was the head of a pirate.

On the 22nd (May) we reached the Siao-kiang (little river),

wrongly called by Europeans the Yang-pi, from a place on its

banks. The stream stole along with a singular ruddy tinge that

harmonised well with the pale yellow herbage of its grey shores.

A neat little village was coquettishly perched half-way up the

opposite hillside, and behind it the fields rose to pastures, which

yielded in turn to red earth at the margin of the pines. Between

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

the masses of rock that projected sharp shadows in the hot glare
of an afternoon sun, the dale we were threading seemed almost
a defile, over the glassy Boor of which stately moving cloud
shapes slowly travelled. The passage of the river was easily
effected on a bamboo raft ; after which we gradually left the
pleasing scenery, which lost nothing from the approach of
evening. Before the stage's end our eyes were arrested by a

On the Banks of the Siao-kiang, or Yang-pi.

til^'^

limestone cliff rising to a height of 260 feet. The splintered

points upon its brow resembled the florets on a crown, and round

them a few saplings lifted their slender, almost aerial foliage.

To a ledge in mid-face, and actually sustained by iron rivets,

clung a little three-storeyed pagoda, Khou-an-yn-Miao, the house

of the goddess Khou-an-yn. It was a structure of grey roof

upon lighter walls, with broad black bands on which were traced

some large white characters. The prickly pear above and yellow

122

.**

I II I ll

>r,!!

i I Jill

i li !' 1

Pagoda Khou-an-)n-Mia'

SSUMAO TO TALI

shrub below sought foothold in the crannies, and the rock but-
tress that struck abruptly downwards amid the tree tops seemed
placed for a pedestal to the edifice. For conscience' sake I
visited the temple, to which access was gained by a slanting
ladder fully in keeping with its precarious surroundings. The
only living inmate of this eyrie was a guardian who maintained
the fire and joss-sticks before some very ordinary gilded gods.

From our rest camp of the 24th (May) we had a good view
of the Meng-hua-ting valley. On the map its waters belong to
the basin of the Red River. Going on in advance, Roux and
I in one day almost reached the head of the valley, which was
about two miles wide and filled with corn, then in full tide of
harvesting. The peasantry were poor, and called themselves
Tchou-cho-hos, and not Chinese ; according to our men they were
Pe Lolos. We left Meng-hua-ting on our right, the town
seeming unimportant ; but the road was broad and paved, and
dotted with many caravans, chiefly of salt or cotton under striped
coverings that looked like Thibetan stuff.

Ascending the chain that formed the end of the valley, we
attained the summit, after some hours' climb, on the 26th (May).
Before us lay the lake of Tali. The hills on its eastern shores
rested upon its brink, on the west they were separated from it by a
strip of land a mile and a half wide, laid out in squares of yellow and
green crops, and studded with villages. The lake lengthens out
towards the north, and at first sight appears smaller than that of
Yiinnan-Sen — no doubt because it is narrower. Under the rain
clouds in which we viewed it for the first time, it had a disappoint-
ing effect, though perhaps a different impression might be conveyed
with the mountain-tops clear and a ray of sun to light up the waves.

Then one might more easily appreciate the legendary beauty of this

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

sheet of water, which has such a hold upon the imagination of the
untutored native mind. As it was, it required some effort of the
fancy to picture the Golden Bird of the Thibetan fables hovering
over the face of the sacred waters.

Nevertheless, our men were filled with joy, and sang and shouted
as they marched. We descended the hill with lengthened stride,
and I called to mind many a strange stage in my former travels,
such as when on leaving Thibet we hastened down to Ta-tsien-lou.
At the base of the hills, in stony chaos, lay the cemetery — the town
of the dead at the gate of the living. We reached the river that
forms the outlet of the lake; and here three routes converged: the
one from the capital ; our own ; and that from Burmah, called the
Ambassadors' Road. Along the last named stretched into the dis-
tance the posts of the new telegraph line from Bhamo — the Future ;
and here on the right bank of the river — the Past, a grey loopholed
wall, with battlements and bastions crumbling to decay, vestiges of
the Mussulman war.

After passing the village of Chia-kouan (South-port), the way

lay through fields and close-lying hamlets. It was dark by the

time we came to the gate of Tali ; luckily, it had not yet been

closed. A tunnel led under the ramparts, and, once inside, we asked

to be brought to the house of the French Father. After a long

detour, our guide stopped before a dwelling, and I hailed loudly

for admittance ; then, finding a side door open, entered. What

was our surprise to hear a feminine European voice ! The owner

at the same moment appeared at the head of the staircase with a

companion, both dressed as Chinese, and disclosed herself as a

young English lady. I was almost as taken aback as our men,

who had probably never seen a European woman before, and stood

there rolling their eyes in wonder ; but, mutual explanations being

126

SSUMAO TO TALI

tendered, we found we were in the house of the wife of the Pro-
testant minister, himself away from home, and she poHtely sent
a servant to ofuide us to the mission. But our adventures were
not quite complete ; for in their admiration of the European fair
sex our men had forgotten the mules, which had quietly scat-
tered down the tortuous lanes of the vicinity, where we had to
organise a battue for their recovery. So that it was late ere we
were all at last safely gathered within the walls of the Father's
compound.

12:

Father Leguilcher.

CHAPTER IV

TALI-FOU

Father Leguilcher — History of Tali — Francis Garnier — Murder of Margaiy — Mussulman
War — Persecution of Christians — Our Relations with the Mandarins — Trade — The
Minchias — Environs of Tali — The Lake — Chinese Superstition.

Father Leguilcher, in whose house we were now lodged, had

been forty-three years in China, in succession to Fathers Huot,

Dumont, and Fage, and was still in full vigour for his work.

The dwelling which he occupied was built in 1868, by the

eldest brother of a leading Mussulman, and was one of the

best in Tali. Entrance to it was gained through several paved

interior courts, round which were rany^ed stone benches, with

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TALI-FOU

marble vases supporting pleached trees, pomegranates, and nas-
turtium. In rear of the living-part was a garden full of palms,
orange and apricot trees, and many lesser plants dear to the
French palate. In this retreat we rested for the ne.xt three
weeks ; going out but seldom, and occupying our time in the
settlement of our past and arrangement for our future journeys,
and in the agreeable society of our fellow-countryman.

The town of Tali is of considerable though uncertain
antiquity. It formed once the capital of a native dynasty, of
which the last king was called Pe. Some Minchias, said to
have come from the neighbourhood of Nanking, established
themselves in the district, and were subjugated by the Chinese,
who suppressed their kingdom, but left the native chiefs under
the name of toussous. Within more recent time the history
of Tali developed incidents of directer interest for Europeans.

In 1875 Margary was assassinated, on the road from Tali
to Bhamo, by the subalterns, Lisen-tajen, of the tchentai of Teng-
Yiieh, acting under the orders of the notorious viceroy of
Yunnan, Tsen. This latter expiated his cruelties eleven years
later, and it is related of him that he was haunted to the day
of his death by the spectres of his numerous victims, often
causing him to stop while on the march to offer supplications
for his riddance from their persecution. Before that, in 1863, a
Frenchman, Gamier, had visited Tali ; and Father Leguilcher
told us at what extreme risk he had himself accompanied the
traveller on this stage of his journey.

Coming to a later date, it was the capture of Tali that put

an end to the Mussulman war, when the town was delivered

into the hands of the Imperial troops by treachery. Tsen

arrived just after the surrender, under the terms of which the
I 129

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

general of the Chinese forces had guaranteed the lives of the

inhabitants. "The promise was yours, not mine," remarked

Tsen ; and, having invited the leading Mussulmans to his

quarters, he had them all butchered, while, at the same time,

a cannon shot gave the signal for an indiscriminate massacre

in the town. This bad faith is quite a familiar feature among

Chinese of all ranks and of all time; Li- Hung -Chang only

just escaped being pistoled by Gordon for a like falsehood.

At the period of our sojourn the town was tranquil. The

people seemed scarcely even aware that China was at war with

Japan.

Our presence, however, started some sinister rumours in the

direction of renewed massacres of the Christians. Happily,

these received no further expression at the time ; but there is

little lasting confidence in the safety of either life or property.

The murder of Father Batifaut in this province was still

sufficiently in mind. He was killed in 1874 at the gate of

Pien-kio, while visiting a Christian convert. His assailants were

rebels, with whom he had refused to associate himself, so that

he actually lost his life through a respect for the Imperial

authority. The matter was not carried to Pekin, and was

allowed to drop. The next victim was a convert, Kieou-Japine

by name, sacrificed out of spite against Father Charrere, who

had gained the hatred of the mandarins by the determination

and success of his work. This death also is to be laid to the

charge of the Viceroy Tsen. The Father himself only eluded a

similar fate by the timely warning of Father Leguilcher, and

effected his escape, with a small band of disciples, just before

the gates were shut. On this occasion forty Christians fell, the

church was destroyed, and the funds confiscated. About the

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TALI-FOU

same period over two thousand Christians were killed on the
banks of the Blue River, for which no redress has ever been
obtained.

The 28th of March 1884 saw the murder of Father Terrace
at Chia-fung-tse. An accusation had been trumped up against
him, which the taotai of Tali, Fong by name, refused to enter-
tain. But a Fou-kien mandarin of the third order encouraged
it, and gave the people carte-blanche to wreak their will. The
Father was accordingly besieged in his house, and, after an
heroic defence through an entire night, aided only by two aged
women, he was stoned to death. His body was subjected to
horrible mutilations, the heart and liver being boiled in a
cauldron ; and it was with feelings of extreme repulsion and
self-repression that, some months after the occurrence. Father
Leguilcher found himself constrained by his position to enter-
tain the perpetrator of this diabolical human cookery. The
Chinese Government subsequently paid fifty thousand taels to
the mission, as compensation for the outrage.

The Father told us that it was no specific witchcraft that
was attributed to the Christians, but such idle superstitions as
the supposed evil augury of cutting a fowl's tail-feathers, that
sufficed to inflame the fanaticism of the Chinese against them.
In the days of their worst terror the Christians adopted a
private argot among themselves, which their oppressors called
"devil talk"; but it only survives now among a few of the
former generation.

As a rule, the persecution is the work of members of secret
societies fostered by the mandarins, " The United Brotherhood "
as they are termed. They burn incense, a cock is killed, and
his blood, mixed with spirit, is drunk by every confederate.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

The latter were formerly known by the title of Chaothiang pai'pa
{by the burning of incense the brethren are known) ; later as
Kiang-fou-houi [river-take of the Hou-Pe, sect centre), Kolao (elder
brothers, younger brothers). Their most ordinary designation, how-
ever, is Chiao-chiang-tichiang {incense burners, elders, youngers).
It is even hinted that the leaders of these leagues aim at the

actual overthrow of
the present dynasty.
As a matter of
fact, Father Lecruil-
cher was, at the
period of which we
write, left in peace.
The Christian in-
mates of his house
seemed good ser-
vants : one was the
teacher in the school,
and spoke Latin
fairly, another was a
horse-dealer, a third
a joiner. It was not
an uncommon thinof
for poorer parents to
sell their children : one such, an urchin of seven years, about the
size of a child of three at home, became quite a pet of ours.
He had a holiday in honour of our visit, and spent the whole
day in the court silently intent upon our movements, save when
we took any notice of him, when his face expanded into a wide

smile, which, while it closed his eyes, permitted only the tip of

132

JiVV

The Pel.

H

TALI-FOU

his tongue to protrude from the creases of his fat Httle coun-
tenance.

If we were well treated within the Father's domicile, we were
not neglectful of the external forms of ceremony advisable towards
the authorities. The day following our arrival we duly sallied
forth to the houses of the two mandarins, the military chief, and
the taotai, whom we had previously advertised of our visit, and
who had signified their oiracious intention to accord us an inter-
view. But on our presenting ourselves at their respective yamen,
we were, in each case, refused audience on the plea of a headache.
We regretted having so far put ourselves out for such ill-bred
curmudgeons ; and when, a few days afterwards, some soldiers were
sent with a demand for our passports, we took the opportunity of
replying that men of our rank were accustomed to travel in formal
order, and that as the mandarins had declined to see us personally
there could be no necessity for them to inspect our papers.

Tali has a population of about twenty thousand souls. Two
principal streets traverse it, one long one running north and south,
and the other descending towards the east to the lake side. The
town offers but few points of interest to the traveller. The eye
is attracted by a great grey block of masonry at the entrance to
the main gate. This is the bell and drum tower, furnishing
quarters to a few soldiers, whence a bell gives the signal for
gun-fire at night-fall, and every two hours for the watch. Small
shops line the sides of the two chief streets, as in most Chinese
towns. Goods of European manufacture, chiefly English, come
from Burmah, or from Pese on the Canton River ; those brought
from the east have, before reaching Tali, to pass the head of the
shortest route of penetration into China by the Red River. A
few silk stuffs descend from Setchuen.

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

In the way of local trade I only noticed some round or

square slabs of marble from the Tsang-chang mountains. They

are veined, and are valued according as they bear a more or less

fanciful resemblance to men, animals, or mountains. A fair sale

is also carried on in skins — tiger, panther, little lynx, a greyish

wolf, and pandas [Ailurtis), the thick ringed tails of which were

to be seen hanging in

bunches before the

door-posts. At Tali

also there is a house

which has a depot of

tea from Pou-eul-Fou.

A wine of Lykiang,

made from barley, and

not unlike certain

Spanish vintages to

the palate, is sold

here. Cette is the

only other place, to

my knowledge, where

wine is made without

the fruit of the grape.

Besides such articles

as those above mentioned, many Thibetan woollen stuffs, thick

and warm, find their way hither. On one day (5th June) we

met a caravan coming from the tea-gardens, consisting of no

fewer than three hundred Thibetan horses and mules, bound for

Atentse. With them we saw several of those enormous black and

tan dogs of Thibet which can only live in cold climates.

Food resources seemed plentiful : beef, mutton, vegetables, and

136

T.ili-Fou Woman.

TALI-FOU

potatoes. Butter is made by Christian converts at about two
days' distance ; and often, while enjoying the luxury of our
repasts here, we thought with some sorrow of the renewal of
hard fare which awaited us in a few days.

The Minchia population, which is in the majority and very
prolific in its increase, has been established here for some
thousands of years. The type is hard to distinguish from Chinese,
but the language is different. Mussulmans are also numerous,
and many of them have been embodied in the army. In the
opinion of the Father, the accession of the Mussulmans does not
promise much opening of the country to foreigners ; they talk
of their advent, but at heart they do not desire it.

Immediately behind Tali itself the mountain rises steeply in
scarps, green indeed, but totally devoid of timber, up to the sharp
rocks of its summit, which stands at an altitude of 13,000 feet
in isolation — a befitting natural screen and abutment to the lake
lying at its feet. During our stay we only saw snow on its
head for a few hours ; it is rare in summer, but during eight
months of the year the cap is always white. The chain of
Tsang - chang placed like a wall between Chinese Yunnan, the
civilised province, and the little- known and wild regions of the
Kachins of Upper Burmah, and, to the right, of Thibet, reminded
me of the rampart of the AltynTJagh, the Golden Mountains,
which seem to forbid any approach from the north to Thibet
the mysterious. Here, as on the south of the Lob-Nor, legends
hover above their peaks, to daunt the traveller. F"e\v are they
that have crossed the barrier ; and of those bold spirits that
have dared its perils rarely have any re-emerged. Its inaccessible
crags resist the proffered violation of their secrecy ; cold grips
the foolhardy mountaineer, and he drops amid their unforgiving

^o7

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

solitudes. It was at 9,750 feet that a dozen bodies were dis-
covered, crouched, locked together for a long - lost warmth, and
frozen stiff Yet at this height the effects of mountain atmosphere
are not so generally fatal.

At a short distance east of the town the margin of the lake
Er-hai extends from north-north-west to south-east ; and the
plain which fringes it and environs Tali strikes the base of the
Tsang-Chang mountains, and spreads over an area of a dozen
leagues. Nothing can adequately convey a sense of its fertility.
Between the three hundred and seventy-five villages it contains
there is not a rood of fallow ground, and every field yields two
harvests a year. The only rest the soil gets is in a change
of crops. The chief products are corn, maize, opium, rice, and
buckwheat. No tax burdens the farmer, and quite a small plot
belonging to the mission brings in fifty taels per annum.

At the two extremities of the lake the little towns of Chan-
kouan and Chia-kouan (upper and lower gate) mark the limits
of the plain. With a few slight military works on the north and
south, — its natural defences suffice for the east and west, — the
place might be held for a long time against an enemy from
without, especially as the besieged would have ample and
practically inexhaustible food supplies at their very gates. From
which it may be seen, as before indicated, that the triumph of
the Imperial troops in 1S71 was due to the treachery instilled
among the lieutenants of the Sultan rather than to force or
famine.

One afternoon of our stay I escaped from the mission and
turned my mule down towards the lake. It was about three-
quarters of an hour's ride through cultivated fields to the shore,
bordered with trees and villages. Over the tranquil surface of

138

TALI-FOU

the blue-green water glided several boats about 40 feet long,

each with a single mast and a large rectangular sail of matting.

On the opposite side the hills were rounded and barren, with

veins of red that meandered down their slopes into the water.

It would have been a scene of calm contemplation as I sat on

a stone to enjoy it, but for the hateful Chinese crowd that

hustled and shut me in. At such moments a murderous desire

came upon one to fling oneself, knife and revolver in hand, upon

the repulsive mob that would not let one breathe the fresh air

in peace for a moment. For it was a delightful spot that 1 had

selected, beneath the shade of some willows where a green

margin of turf sloped to a bank of shells upon the edge of the

lake. Small barques slipped silently inshore, propelled almost

without a ripple by a light and tapering pole plied lazily from

the stern. In the gathering dusk they showed but as dark

shadows ; on prow and gunwale perched a motionless row of sombre

cormorants, so that each vessel seemed the ship of Charon.

Whether from the plumage of the birds, or from their attitude,

the whole convoy presented a weird, funereal appearance. But

the odour of their freight presently declared them only fishers

returned from water - hawking. To each boat there are eight

cormorants ; a straw collar round the throat prevents their bolting

the fish that they have struck, and the men have a seine of plaited

osier for the prey. Here from the lake side Tali was but half

visible, nor from the few roofs emerging from the green would

anyone suspect the proximity of so large a town.

But it was time to be up and away. Our money and cases

had come up from Mongtse, the taels in little packages of five

bags each, carried by six men in osier baskets balanced on their

shoulders. As we advanced we reduced our retinue, and here

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

dismissed most of our former mafous and disposed of several
mules.

Before we left we received a visit from two of the Fathers,
Pitou and Reichenbach, whose station was two days' distant
from Tali ; and with six Frenchmen momentarily united in a

far country it may
be judged if the
party broke up
early. The mis-
sionaries gave us
interesting details of
the country, especi-
ally regarding the
superstitions of the
Chinese in Tali,
among which the
errors of the Middle
Ages lived again.
For instance, in the
heart of the larger
cactus is found a
pith, which to a
lively imagination
presents the semblance of a doll. In this the natives see the
embryo European, and to be beforehand with a possible invasion
slay every cactus in the place. Again, when rain is wanted
a long paper dragon is carried through the streets ; or, more
effectual still, a dressed-up dog is carried in a palanquin, before
which the very mandarins must bow for the propitiation of the

skies.

142

iJ'^^

'-^^j:^ -

Main Gate Tali- Foil.

CHAPTER V

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

Caravan Reconstituted — Joseph — Departure from Tali — Fong-Yu — Cross the Yang-pi — •
Sah Works at Tien-eul-tsin — Dread of the " Barbarians " — Bridge over the Mekong —
Fey-long-kiao — Strange Gods — Lao ; Extreme Chinese Village — Valley Tangle — The
Salwen — A Friendly Toussou — His Office — Between the two Rivers — The " Gate of
the Tiger" — Subterranean Cavern — Lissou Tallies — The Mekong again — Cord Bridge
at Piao-tsen — New Year's Trees — -Tono Monstrosities — A Thief Forestalled — Lamas-
jens — Successful Robbery ; an Unfortunate Loss — Native Dance — Lamasjen and
Lissou Customs — A Village Esmeralda — Administration — False Alarms — In-Chouan ;
Ruined Village — Side Expedition to Tdki — Explanation of Wild Loutses — Toti — Ex-
pected Attack — On Guard — -Cross-Bows and Poisoned Arrows — Deities at Fong-
Chouan ; Joseph as Cicerone — Curious Emblems — Different Names of the Salwen —
First mention of the Kiou-Kiang — -Loutses and their Prisoners — With Dance and Song
— To the Spirit of the Earth — Thibetan Tents Sighted — Town of Hsiao-Ouisi —
Father Tintet — Trials of the Missionaries — News from Tali — Full Stop on the Right
Hank — We recross the Mekong at Halo — Hopatie Fete — Caravan Divided — Lama-
serai of Kampou — Description — Points of Similarity between Roman Catholicism and
Thibetan Buddhism — Yetche : its Ruler and People — -The Mossos — Their History,
Customs, and Method of Writing — Visit to the King — Mosso equivalent for Bell,
Book, and Candle — Arrival at Tsekou — Retrospect.

By the 14th of June our preparations were complete. We had
no time to lose, and wished to be off. Henceforward, as we
should no longer be able, as at Mongtse, to fall back on a relay
or a reserve, it was necessary to carry with us everything that
we should require to the end — money, lights, stores, etc. We
left with the missionaries the collections made up to this point,
and some superfluous baggage for remission to INIongtse, but, in
view of the country we were about to enter, we were obliged to

143

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

augment our packages, and, in consequence, our caravan. We
took one load of horse-shoes ; another of tea (for personal con-
sumption as well as for barter) ; one of grease, made up dry in
small leather bags ; two dozen lbs. of sugar ; three sheepskin beds
(making one load), tunics of the same with the wool on ; felt boots ;

t ■/

■ -I «( ' it

\x\\^ ^

"'-st/

i f

Some of our Escort.

and two large plain tents for the men. One of the most difficult

questions was that of lights ; we had with us candles calculated

for six months. Our beasts had been partly changed and our

retinue renewed, so that we felt as though starting on a fresh

expedition.

We had experienced no difficulty at Tali in procuring strong

144

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

mules. Our caravan was composed of thirty such, of which six
were for the saddle. We mustered si.xteen men, all told. Our
two Annamite boys, after a little hesitation, decided to go for-
ward with us ; but of the Chinese who entered Tali in our train
but two remained — Roux's mule man Chantzeu, and his assistant
Fa, a strong, well-conducted lad whom we had taken on at
Ssumao. The new makotou was a big, seasoned fellow, about
forty years old, who talked little and worked hard, and neither
drank nor smoked. Under him were seven mafous, some of
them Christians.

The interpreter was also a Christian, furnished by the Fathers.
It was a matter for astonishment to find in this out-of-the-way
spot anyone who could act in that capacity. It was still more so
when I add that Joseph spoke not a word of French. He was
what the missionaries termed a " Latinist." Brought up and
taught from early childhood by the Fathers, he had learnt Latin,
and even studied philosophy. But not feeling a call for orders
he had married, and became, like many of his kind, a trader,
setting up a small store with his father-in-law. Never, in all
probability, did he suspect that his acquaintance with the lan-
guage of Cicero would be lucrative, any more than, I am free to
add, I had myself thought to derive direct advantage from the
many painful hours erstwhile spent over the Catilines or the
^neid. At first, intercourse was not easy. Our oratorical
attempts were hardly brilliant ; there were even times when we
were not in touch. By degrees, however, we gained fluency, and
in a month had completely mastered each other's idiosyncrasies of
expression. But what Latin ! Horresco ref evens ! Solecisms,
barbarisms, neologisms, all the "isms" invented might be applied
to our jargon. Luckily, we had only ourselves for audience.
^ 145

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Eulocjy on our interpreter would be premature here ; his merits
will appear in the course of our travel. Suffice it to say that
Joseph proved himself a man of sterling principle, integrity, and
courage, and that as each day advanced he became not only our
devoted servant but our friend.

All being- then ready, on the afternoon of the 14th (June) we
set forth. Our course was still west by a road leading to the
Mekong. Once on the banks of the river we should have to
seek a way up the valley. The actual start was a lengthy pro-
ceeding ; each of our men had a last word to say to a parent or
friend. But at length we got away.

Five hours later we parted from the Fathers, who convoyed
us so far on our way. It was not without real regret that we
said good-bye to these brave fellow-countrymen, whom we should
in all human probability never set eyes on again. The pang
was a mutual one. We might hope to see our country within a
few months; they, never. It must have needed some fortitude
to face that word — above all, in China.

We proceeded along a paved causeway between the moun-
tains of Tsang-Chang and the lake, and we did not emerge from
the hollow during the first day, which closed on us in a clean
little Minchia village. On the next we continued to skirt the
lake, which narrowed towards the north, until it ended in a mere
reed-bordered channel, up which some boats were being poled.
The swamps stretched farther, diversified with hummocks ; it
seemed as if the lake proper, the basin of which was clearly
defined by the hills, must once have been more extensive. The
alluvial land of its bed, scarcely above the level of the water,
was cultivated with rice ; and many a hamlet and clump of trees

appeared from the verdant surface ; the vista recalled some

146

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

corners of Normandy. Passing Chang-kouan, which forms the
northern gate of the valley, we stopped at Teng-chouan-cheou, in
a pagoda where we were pestered by crowds of inquisitive idlers.

On the 1 8th (June) a sparsely clad ascent brought us to
a col at an altitude of 9,035 feet. We were in the midst of Alpine
vegetation; asters, orchids, edelweiss, etc., abounded. The air
was fresh and invigorating. At our feet was spread a wide and
well-tilled vale, the rice-fields like a draught-board below us,
and the villages grey specks edged with green. Throughout its
length a river traced a sinuous course with a dark riband of
trees. The coup d'cei/ was striking, and issuing as we did from
brown and rugged hills we could hardly repress an exclamation
of delight. Rarely had we seen fertility so fully turned to account.
Save where small dikes defined the boundaries of the fields, no
single rood of ground was lost. Upon the distant hills a few
white scaurs showed like beacons over the valley. Down on the
level a group of peasants might be discerned round a minute
oriflamme, lightening their toil with the sound of flageolet and
eone. When we descended to the river we found its waters
rapid and clear beneath a fringe of willows, and the irrigation
was cleverly controlled by intersecting runnels.

We crossed the valley by a paved road at right angles, and
came to the Minchia townlet of Fong-Yu (two thousand or three
thousand inhabitants). I noticed the peculiar head-dress of some of
the women, consisting of a close-fittino- little black hood with silver
ornaments in front. Their hair was looped to cover the ear, — one
might have supposed they had got the latest mode from Paris,
— and this style seemed reserved for the young girls. To see
them at work in the fields in their skull-caps, little jackets, and
trousers revealed by the tucked-up skirt, they might have been

147

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

taken for boys. The older women wore the black turban,
Chinese fashion, covering the hair knot. Amongst these folks
one met with some pretty faces and more regular features than
the Chinese. The men, on the other hand, differ but little from
the latter.

Despite the fact of the doors of the inn where we lay being
closed, they shut in a swarm of people, and our repose was
broken by the incessant going and coming of the "members
of the family," as they explained to all our grumbles. To such
an argument there was no rejoinder : yet what a family ! Ceries,
there is no fear of depopulation in this country yet awhile.

It took us five days to reach the Mekong from Fong-Yu
alone a rather uniform road. A second hill similar to the last
we had climbed, and then on the 20th we found ourselves by
the river Yang-pi, which we had already crossed before Tali.
The stream here was spanned by a hanging bridge on eight
chains fastened at either end to a white stone. At the bridge
head was a platform, and on it a recumbent stone buffalo, sole
guardian of the spot, as if watching the rush of water with a
placid air. Near the Yang-pi we for the first time fell in with
some Lissous, a tribe of mountaineers renowned in China for
their fierceness. We were to have more to do with them in
the future. These representatives were swarthy, and wore a
broad straw hat like a panama.

On the 2ist (June) we traversed a wood, threaded by green
glades. The country had few inhabitants and little culture,
merely an occasional patch of corn or buckwheat, but the
vegetation was luxuriant and the shade grateful. White dog-
roses scaled the trees and drooped in fragrant clusters over

dazzling diadems of lilies of the height of a man, and under

148

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

foot pink primulas made a gay carpet. The enjoyment of these
cool forests in contrast to the turmoil of the inns was great.
On the 22nd as the wood thinned the villages increased, and
we came to some salt pits at Tien-eul-tsin. These we inspected
before our departure. The rock-salt is obtained by means of
shafts about 65 feet deep, and is drawn up by a double bucket.

'V>^

Hanging Bridge over the Yang-pi.

The slush is then tilted into a trench, which conducts it to large
stone vats, whence it is again transferred by hand into wooden
receptacles. A Chinese overseer at a counter checks the work-
men as they issue with their dripping loads. The next process
is to heat the mass in small coppers placed on kilns (called
tsao-fang, of which there might be about si.xty in the village),

and the residuum is blocked in spherical wooden moulds. The

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

measure thus obtained is 2 lbs., Chinese, eight tsiens. A pound
is worth thirty sapecks. The salt is sent to Teng-Vueh and
Yung-Tchang, but does not go to Tali. Work is only carried
on for seven days in a month, and about 3,000 lbs. ot salt are
despatched in that time. The workings are common ; anyone
can share in them by paying to the mandarin a rent, which
varies according to the number of labourers.

As we left Tien-eul-tsin we noticed pagodas on the hillside
above some rocks, on which were engraved inscriptions. In the
middle of them appeared a figure of the goddess Khou-an-yn,
in the pose of a madonna with flowing drapery : the head was
in profile, with a hood encircled by an aureole. Similar designs
exist in Japan. Farther on we passed another salt-mine village,
from which arose columns of smoke, before coming to Yiin-long-
cheou, a town only by virtue of its administration. The mandarin,
who entertained us, had a garrison of but thirteen men. Here
we were on the bank of the river Pi-kiang, which flows from the
mountains of Likiang into the Mekong at two days' distance.

The directions furnished us as to the route to follow were
vague. They were to the effect that we ought to reach the
Lan-Tsang-kiang (Mekong) in two days, and should be able to
cross it by a bridge. But on the other side we should find
ourselves in the territory of the "barbarians," according to Joseph,
and with paths impracticable for mules. The approaches to the
Sal wen were regarded with dread. A local proverb says, "He
who would cross the Loutze-kiang should sell his wife before
he starts." Our men did not seem to make any actual demur
to going forward ; they doubted our persisting to any distance,
but, on our attempting to procure an extra mafou for three
more mules we had bought, we found it impossible to induce

150

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

anyone of the district to follow us farther in a westerly direction.
One of our other mafous prepared himself for all eventualities by
ofiering to the gods in the pagoda where we were, rice, tchaotiou,
and pork, and by burning candles before the two altars with
repeated prostrations.

From Yiin-long the route ascended over a low shoulder into
a wooded and turfy country, in which we passed through a
Lolo and Minchia village of long arched dwellings. Straw was
drying in the yards stacked on horizontal bars in layers to
a height of 19 feet, and covered by a small pent-roof. As the
village was crowded with another caravan, we encamped beyond
in a fir-grove hard by a torrent, and enjoyed the seclusion and
magnificent prospect at a height of 7,800 feet. This enjoyment
would have been more generally shared by the rest of our troop
could they have divested themselves of some foreboding for the
future. Only that morning, in conversation with Joseph, I had
learned of a road which branched northward from the bridge over
the Mekong. "But," said he, "we must not think of taking
it, because there's sickness in the district ; because the mountains
are stupendous ; because, in a word, the Lissous are there !
I was content to abide the i.ssue, and let them talk.

The 26th (June) was very hot, and the glare from the
slaty rock trying ; but in the afternoon we came in sight of
the muddy Mekong, and presently joining its course, turned up
the left bank. The volume of its waters that came tumbling
down with tumult and in waves shouldering each other as it panic-
driven strengthened our previous conception of its force. We
found the bridge a little farther ; it was merely a footway on
chains between two stone piers such as we had seen before,
with the river forming a boiling rapid underneath. The bridge

151

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

itself was sixty-six paces in length, but, reckoning from the edge
of the wood where the piers commenced, the width of the river at
this point was about seventy-six yards. Going northward up stream
this is the last bridge on the Mekong before those which span the
two arms at Tsiamdo, on the main road between Pekin and Lha^a.
After crossing the river a large gateway confronted us, through
which we entered the street of the village of Fey-long-kiao. On
either side the regular white buildings with their grey roofs, backed
by the darker hills and coffee-coloured water, imparted quite a
charming air to the place. Within, it was the same as other Chinese
towns, squalid and dirty, like a woman who hides the ugliness
of age beneath a showy dress.

We put up in a room above the gateway, reached by a narrow
ladder stair. The basement was given up to idols. But instead
of the tawdry images we had grown used to, with grotesque
features staring at you in ranks like dolls at a fair waiting the
day ot destruction, I was astonished to find myself before deities
of a much more venerable aspect. On the right was a little old
figure, with a cowl like a monk's upon a gilded head adorned with
a flowing white beard. He reminded me of Father Christmas.
In the middle of the altar was another, indistinguishable save for
some traces of a former gilded splendour in the dark wood of
which he was graven. At the feet of the laro;e ones were minor
divinities, or they may have been priests, in a sort of cassock, and
black with age. These austere gods seemed to watch with the
same air of immovable disdain the damage of the wasting years,
while the river without repeated in its ceaseless roar the unchang-
ing tale of centuries which rolled before their feet.

Naturally, our first care at Fey-long-kiao was to put questions
regarding the route. The replies were uniformly discouraging.

152

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

" South-west there were roads leading into Burmah," — thank you
for nothing. To the north ? — There was but one, and that
ascended the left bank of the Mekong. But in proportion as they
insisted that it was impossible to travel by the right bank, that the
country was impassable, perilous, peopled by savages, so our desire
to make the attempt increased. The farthest Chinese village was
two days' march north-west of Fey-long-kiao. We would attain
that, and then it would be time to see what more could be done.
Anyway, I was determined to go on till some more real obstacle
than the fears of our men should stop us.

As predicted, it took us two days to reach Lao. We went up
by a fairly good zigzag path over the chain that divides the
Mekong basin from that of the Salwen. The first night we halted
in a hut about i,ooo feet short of the summit. We were astonished
to find here Manhao, the mafou who at Mienning had stabbed the
makotou. He related that the latter, recovered of his wounds,
had gone back to Mongtse with Francois, and preferred a request
to be taken back into our service. It may be imagined what
reception I gave to one who had proved so ready with his knife.
Throughout the latter portion of our ascent we were escorted by
two soldiers, as a protection against attack from Lolo or Lissou
robbers. I confess I placed more reliance in my revolver than in
the cross-bow and trident which formed the armament of our
warriors. On the col I remarked on either side of the path a
row of small sharpened bamboo stakes buried in the ground to
pierce the bare feet of possible brigands. The Mois of Annam
use a like method of defence.

We dropped down into the Salwen basin between wooded hills
that sheltered rare hamlets. Round them the fields under cultiva-
tion were fenced with palisades of interlaced bamboo against the

153

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

incursions of wild animals. The fauna of the mountains was rich
in deer, chamois, monkeys, and wild oxen, but we heard of no
tigers.

We stopped at Lao, where the gaping crowd of Chinese had a
more cut-throat look than usual. They could give us no clearer
information than at Fey-long-kiao. One route led to the Salwen,
which they called the Cheloung-kiang, but it was not possible to
go farther north because of the jejeu (savages). We resolved
to see for ourselves, and next morning moved off slowly, for it
behoved us to be patient with our mafous, who, though tired, were
performing their work well. The way wound up the defile of the
torrent we had begun to follow on the day before ; brushwood and
boulders obstructed the passage, and the mules had to pick their
footing cleverly among the treacherous shingle. At sundown the
column was checked for half an hour at an abrupt landslip. The
makotou, who had been in advance, came back with the news that
the path was choked by a mass of rock, and that several of the
animals had rolled down the slope. As night was approaching, we
camped where we were, on a bank of shale. Above, the mouth
of the gorge was dimly outlined against a triangular patch of sky,
and the dark bushes that lined the channel were lit with dancing
fireflies. The men beneath the sheltering pack-saddles talked
together in low tones by the glare of the fire till far into the night,
while without the circle of light the shadowy forms of the mules
moved or lay among the reeds. Little by little silence fell over
the camp, and the echoing torrent alone broke the stillness.

Apart from the arduous nature of the road, the day had offered
little of incident. We had sighted some natives fishing down
stream with bamboos, to which a bunch of worms was tied ; they
thrust the rod under the large rocks, and netted the catch in an

154

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

osier basket with tlie other hand. The fish thus landed averaged
about 8 inches long, the breast and belly were broad and the head
flat, with a wide mouth like a dog-fish. The flesh was palatable.

It was on leaving the shingle camp that the real struggle
began against obstacles more formidable than we had yet en-
countered. The path got worse and worse, and the men had to
precede the mules, pick in hand, and break a track across the
shoot of rubble and loose stones. By this means we won a pre-
carious foothold, though in some places the projecting crags
thrust us out over dangerous declivities. Stepping cautiously in
Indian file, we escaped any worse accident than the fall of one
mule, which luckily recovered itself unhurt.

The valley flora was unlike that of the 5,000-feet plateaux
we had traversed. Here the trees had dense foliage, their lower
boughs often covered with fruit ; acacias grew close, and fig-trees
smothered in gigantic creepers and a broad-leaved moss. On
every side were orchids, and ferns with spiral fronds twining
round the central stem. The prolific forest teemed with plants
of rare grace and tropical profusion. But its sunless depths and
rank undergrowth exhaled miasma and a fever-laden moisture ; so
that, although the temperature was not high, we perspired in the
damp heat at each heavy step, and breathed a tepid vapour that
made us believ'e the reputation for insalubrity given by the Chinese
to the valley of the Salwen.

Our camp of the 29th (June) was still by the torrent. Our
men had exhausted their provisions — a lesson to them to be more
provident, and to attend to our orders that they should always
carry three or four days' supplies. Fortunately, we had a ham
and some rice to share with them. In the morning, as I went
to bathe in the river, I discovered a liana bridge swung from

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

two mighty trees, a tight-rope dancer's line above the flood. A
wild-looking being was just about to step on to it, emerging from
I know not where. At sight of me he stopped short in startled
amazement ; then abruptly faced about, and, scrambling down the
left bank, plunged into the reeds and disappeared. The whole
scene called up before me descriptions I had read of travellers
in South America, and I pictured myself in for an adventure
with those ferocious savages of Aymard, who with snake-like
glide and stealthy bird-call creep upon you unawares. Putting
aside fancy, it seemed like enough we should make acquaintance
with savages. We were now in really undiscovered country: no
European had ever hitherto penetrated so far.

It was near noon before we debouched upon the valley
proper of the Salwen, the gradients of the sides being less steep
than those of the Mekong. The Cheloung-kiang, Lou-kiang,
or Salwen, as it is variously called, flows at its base in an aver-
age breadth of 1 20 yards ; its waters are easily distinguished
from those of the Lan-tsang-kiang (Mekong), for while the latter
are reddish brown, the Salwen's are a dirty grey. At the point
where we struck it the current seemed less rapid than the
Mekong ; the temperature of the water was 66° Fahr. The
level of the Salwen is only 3,087 feet, or 1,625 ^^^^ lower than
the Mekong. Without admitting a shallower depth than is the
case, it is difficult to believe that so great a body of water can
issue from so short a course as that indicated by the latest
English map of Thibet, published in 1894. The impression we
derived was of a large river coming from far.

We ascended the valley by a well-defined path to the neat
village of Loukou, built after the Chinese model. It was girt
with maize-fields guarded by palisades or mud walls. The

156

' ,-#

yMii.^

<. />Z

Briffaud on the Liana Bridge.

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

population consisted of Chinese, Minchias, and Lissous. The
natives are ruled by a Lissou toussou. This magnate, after an
exchange of cards, invited us to lodge in his house ; but we
preferred the open plain outside the village, as the search for
some missing mules necessitated a halt of two days instead of
one. We made the toussou a present of a handkerchief, some
pictures, and a box of powder, and he paid us a visit, dressed
in white and with his hair long, a sign of mourning. He was
a half-breed, with more of the Chinese than Lissou in him, and
of much intelligence. His family had migrated hither from
Setchuen with the coming of the Mings. To his official occupa-
tion he added that of a trader, with thirty mules and six men
employed in the traffic of salt from Yiin-Loung to Yiin-tchang
and Teng-Yueh. This toussou knew the district well, and gave
us useful information beyond our expectation. He said a path,
which though insignificant was practicable, went hence in a
northerly direction. It was confined for several days to this
valley, trending first towards that of the Mekong and afterwards
back on to the watershed between the two. The route scaled
one high mountain, but without snow. For eight days' journey
we should find subject Lissous, then for two or three the jejcii,
"qui reguntur a nullis hominibiis et vivunt ut aniinalia" as
Joseph put it. The friendly toussou promised us a letter to a
neighbouring colleague, and provided us with a guide who would
also act as an interpreter among the Lissous. This new mem-
ber of our caravan, who likewise served as a mafou, was a tall,
erect man, with a marked aquiline nose and straight-set eyes ;
in his copper complexion he resembled a Redskin. Among the
inhabitants of the village we observed many who seemed to
have little in common with the yellow race. One woman I

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

noted : she was bronzed, with a projecting brow and arched
eyebrows. Her eyes, instead of being lustreless, were deep-set
and straight, and the underHd was fuller than those of the
Chinese. Her nose was short, and wide at the base, and her
face broad at the temples and tapering to a pronounced chin.
Her whole countenance denoted greater sensibility and vivacity
than the Chinese, and was nearer in its general aspect to the
European type, reminding me of gipsies I had seen in Russia.
She was a Lissou.

The toussou gave us particulars about other routes. Accord-
ing to him, there existed a path by the right bank of the
Salwen, which traversed first a large watercourse known as the
Long-Song-kiang, then the My-le-kiang, and ended in the Long-
Tchouan-kiang. It was difficult to identify these rivers. This
route was peopled by the Lansous, noted for the beauty of their
women, and the Pou-Mans, who live not by agriculture but by
hunting. We employed our rest in questioning the guide as to
the tribe to which he belonged. I studied the Lissou dialect,
which resembled that of the Lochais and the Lolos. By his
account, the Lissous came here four(.'') generations ago from
Nang-king, which accorded with a similar tradition among the
Lolos. Farther on we were to learn that the Lissous themselves
spoke of a country where they had formerly lived, where there
were elephants. They must, then, have come from the south.

Our mules being all collected by the 4th (July), and our men

rested, on the morning of that date we again moved forward.

For the whole of that day we were in the Salwen valley ; now

above, now beside the river. Few people were to be seen, and

little cultivation ; rice, maize, and cotton in flower, which must

be annual, as the plants were little more than a foot high. In

160

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

all directions were strewn limestone fragments amid scanty herbage,
with here and there a cactus to give the scene a likeness to Africa.
The river alternated between broad reaches lapping sandy bars
and foaming rapids like the Mekong. The spectacle formed by
the misty spray of the cataracts was grand in the extreme. The
Salwen bore down on its bosom large trunks of trees which, caught
in the eddies, or held in the backwaters, accumulated in every
creek. The water had begun to rise.

We continued on the 5th (July) the ascent of the same well-
wooded valley, passing a Lissou village, Oumelan, where the house-
walls were chiefly composed of horizontal logs, to which were hooked
wicker hen-roosts, and small wooden shelters for the pigs ; the lofts
were raised upon piles. On one post I perceived a coarse white
drawing of a quartered bird, no doubt intended, as among the
Hou-Nis, to ward off evil spirits. To our request for chickens,
answer was returned that there were none. As they were running
about in all directions, some moral suasion, backed by money, was
required to overcome the scruples of the owners. The site of our
camp would appear to have been a common one for wayfarers from
the smoke-blackened rocks. We were in a clearing beside a
leaping cascade ; behind, on the slope, rose a monster tree, whose
roots served as an arbour, and whose twigs made our couch. In
one corner Nam established his kitchen, by the light of a lamp of
antique shape ; a little farther Chantzeu, curled up among the roots,
sought oblivion of the world in opium ; below, the mafous were
stretched beside the packs. Under a white covering Sao nodded
over his pipe, and as he dreamed of the palms of Tonkin probably
consigned the whole celestial race to perdition — a sentiment which
I could cordially indorse. By the water's edge some logs irom the
mafous' fire still flickered, showing the philosophic Fa coiled in a
L 161

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA .

hollow tree which he had selected for his bed. The mules were
allowed to stray among the scattered herbage, under the guard of
three mafous, who, having fired their pieces into the air to scare the
wild beasts, straightway went to sleep. We slumbered under the
protection of the gods, in the shape of three painted images on a
stone in a niche, before which remnants of egg-shells, feathers, and
a few white rags fluttering on the bushes bore sacrificial witness
to their holy character. We felt almost as barbaric as their
worshippers.

Heavy rain woke us in the night, and did not abate with
daylight. We were now entering the rainy season, and had a
pleasant prospect for the next few weeks.

6th (July). — Still threading the Salwen valley. We passed out
of the jurisdiction of the toussou of Loukou into that of Ketsouy,
a miserable village, where actually the chief was absent. But his
wife attempted to supply his authority with considerable urbanity,
and sent us eggs and goats gratis. Apropos of toussous, we learned
that the dignity is hereditary, and in default of direct heir a
successor is chosen from among the other members of the family.
As in the province of Yunnan, he receives rents from his subjects,
but nothing from the Chinese Government. Every year he must
remit an impost in kind, or some articles of value, to an itinerant
Imperial functionary, or attend in person at Tali for the purpose.

Another day on the 7th (July) of the same work, up hill and
down dale. The valley was tortuous, and we were occasionally
high enough to get superb views ; the course presented similar bold
features to those of the Red River. The ridges dividing the
tributary gullies were of limestone origin, and scarred the face of the
valley with crags and cavities, often encroaching on the bed of the

stream with grey seamed brows draped with bushes. But the clouds

163

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

hung low and hid the peaks. The conditions were unfavourable to
photography, and we passed, a draggled train, through the Lissou
village of Oua-ma-ti, where the men wore their hair in pigtails and
the women in two small horns above the ears. The bad weather
lent our troop a
strange appearance.
Sao's get-up, a motley
of European and An-
namite equipment, was
highly grotesque. On
his head was a wide
Chinese straw, on his
body a shrunken blue
jacket made in Tonkin,
and on his legs a pair
of my old pantaloons.
The shoes and gaiters
I had given him made
him a groom in his
lower extremities,
while revolver, gun,
and bandolier trans-
formed him into a
soldier above. Add
to this the scientific

air lent by my photographic apparatus on his mule, covered with
a yellow mantle, and at a distance it would have been hard to
sa)- what he was.

Stress of weather made us glad of the shelter of a hamlet called

Lotsolo, in the midst of maize and indigo culture. Here the men

16:;

Lissou Woman.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

wore Chinese garb. The women had a dress with parti-coloured
sleeves, 'an armtess waistcoat, blue with minute white checks and a
brown border, and an apron and broad sash. Their costume was
completed by a turban of, in some cases, a blue and red scarf,
frino-ed with cowries. Almost all had small coral ear-rings, said
to be peculiar to these Lissous, who were known as Koua-Lissous
(Lissous of colour, cf back, Koua-Lolos), in distinction from the
Ain-I.issous of Loukou. Some of these women were not bad-
looking. One girl we caught sight of with quite regular features,
and in the morning she was induced for a few needles to parade for
our inspection. She answered to the gentle name of Lou-Meo.

At Lotsolo we met with a good reception, and I began to feel
quite friendh' with the Lissous, of whom we had heard such
alarming accounts. I went into one of their houses, and found the
occupants squatted round the fire warming tchaotiou, a rice spirit
of which they are great connoisseurs. They had never seen a
Yangjen (European) before, nor yet mules ; our arrival therefore
was an event which they celebrated as a fete. They invited me to
drink, and we observed a custom here which we met with farther
on. Two people quaff together out of a two-handled bamboo
vessel. Each holds one handle and incites the other to imbibe
more than himself. This mutual loving-cup is regarded as a pledge
of amity and alliance. In answer to my questions, the natives
could not recollect hearing of their tribe having come here trom
elsewhere. They knew the Lolos possessed a writing, but they
themselves had none. A curious marriage custom is observed
among them. The wedding feast over, at nightfall the betrothed
retires with her parents into the mountain, and the swain has to
seek them ; which quest successfully achieved, the parents withdraw,
and the newly-wedded couple remain till morning upon the hillside,

164

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

when they return to their homes. They have to repeat this
ceremony for three nights before they may settle down. This
custom naturally precludes any marriages during the rains. They
admitted in confidence that the bridegroom was generally in the
secret as to the direction in which he might find his party. Joseph
recounted a like custom as prevailing among the Lolos of Lower
Viinnan in the neighbourhood of the Yangtze.

On leaving Lotsolo we at last quitted the valley of the
Salwen for one of its affluents, by a slippery path, which often
called for the services of the pick. A light rain continued to
fall, and I pitied the mafous, whose toil was severe. To add
to our discomfort at night we were tormented by clouds of
mosquitoes, that effectually murdered sleep.

On the gth (July) we held on our upward course. The men,
accustomed to fine weather, seemed down-hearted, and scarcely
one of them was capable of good collar-work, so that they loaded
up in dejected silence, which boded ill for the harder times
vet in store. Some distance from our camping ground we came
on a really bad bit of path, where we had to scale a veritable
rock stair. It took three mafous to hold up each mule, and one
of the latter having been arduously hauled to the top, took it
into his head to try and re-descend. He lost his footing, and in
a moment was rolling head first down the declivity with his load
bumping at his sides. The fall looked fatal, and we made our
way to the bottom of the ravine, expecting to find him in pieces.
There he was, however, miraculously sound, save for some cuts
and scratches. The example seemed contagious : first one and
then another went down, till four had followed suit, and we
began to wonder if it would be our turn next : it was perilous
to stay in a valley where it thus rained mules. We had to turn

165

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

all hands into mafous, ourselves included, and by dint of great
exertions, and forming a chain to pass the scattered contents of
the packs from hand to hand, we eventually picked all the cases
out of the bushes and torrent and got them to the top, where
we were rewarded by finding that the rest of the animals had
strayed into the woods ; where most of them passed the night.
These contretemps meant a short stage and much grumbling,
hardly allayed by a ration of tchaotiou. The next day was
therefore devoted to a rest, and to preparations for climbing the
mountain which reared itself before us. We also got out our
thick clothes, for it might have been winter, and we longed to
reach a less rigorous climate.

On the iith (July) we made an early start, as the ascent had
been described to us as hardly to be accomplished in one day.
Also our guns and carbines came out of their cases, in readiness
for the savages who were said to be likely to assail us half-way.

The road at first entered a forest, and though the gradient

was steep it was less severe than I had expected, and the mules

got on fairly well. The woods were beautiful, and reminded me

of some parts of Thibet ; the mighty boles were hidden under

a coat of moss, and the long grey beards that hung from

their boughs seemed a mark of venerable age. At the base of

some we found small altars formed of branches, erected by the

superstition of the Lissous to ward off evil spirits. As we

mounted, the trees grew more stunted and gnarled, and presently

gave place to lean bamboos overtopped by Alpine larches. Here

and there I was surprised to notice fine magnolias side by side with

the red and white bark of the wild cherry. At the end of four

hours, during which, notwithstanding the prevalent moisture, we had

not found a spring, we came out upon the grass of the summit.

1 66

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

We had ascended so far faster than we had anticipated, and with-
out hindrance from other sources than those of nature. A report
had spread among the Lissous that we were devils, and so we
were respected. On the col we were at an altitude of i 1,463 feet,
and astride the watershed between the basins of the Mekongr
and the Salwen.

The pass as well as the mountain is called Fou-kou-kouane,
in Lissou dialect Lamakou, the "Gate of the Tiger." A post
consisting of a few Lissous dignified with the name of soldiers
occupied a bamboo shanty, ostensibly to ensure the safety of
the route, which was further guarded on either side by the
buried bamboo splinters before described. The crest was marked
by scarred and jagged rocks, amid which the track led on to a
small plateau covered with long grasses, where the rich flora
testified to a constant dampness. I saw two beautiful species of
lily, white and red, myosotis, yellow ranunculus, sage, and several
kinds of orchids. We did not iind here the short orrass usual

o

■on high summits, nor any gnaphalium. We pitched at the

head of a green slope on a narrow shelf overtopped by a big

rock, from which, when I climbed it in the rain, the caravan was

so entirely hidden by the high grass that no one passing within

thirty yards would have suspected that the grey mass sheltered

fifteen men. The weather was execrable ; we were in the clouds ;

the thermometer stood at 50° Fahr., and it was hard to believe

is was July.

Ne.xt morning the men were depressed ; they had no idea

of bearing up against external influences, and the route was

resumed in silence. After proceeding a short distance we came

to a stream running into a pool, whose rim lipped the base of a

•cliff. Taking it as a guide, we turned aside, and after a few

167

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

steps found ourselves confronted by a stupendous wall of black
and grey seamed rock, which stretched above us and below.
The rivulet, leaping in cascades from stone to stone, bored
through a fissure in the scarp, and disclosed a recess in shape
like the prison of Dionysius' Ear. Peering into the entrance,
we discovered a vaulted cavern, under which the water ran over
a bed of white pebbles. Scared by our intrusion, birds of blue
plumage Hew out into the retreats of the mountain. The spot
had an air of wild crrandeur, which sugorested some subterranean
home of primitive man ; but here was no trace of humanity. In
China such a cave would have been decorated with statues of
Buddha. Instead, the adornment was by Nature's hand: grey
rocks strewn upon verdant mounds, thickets of shapely rhodo-
dendrons, larches with their horizontal boughs dark below and
vivid green aloft. A veritable faery ring, and spot of witchery ; the
scene it might have been of some Walpurgis revel, with its environ-
ment of high mountains, deep woods, and quaint rocks, with the
chasm dimlv descried in the mist, and over all a sense of awe.

From here the route was a descent ; at intervals posts, with
cross pieces marked with notches, indicated the whereabouts in
the undergrowth of the sharpened stakes, but these in the dark
would have been invisible. As there is no writing among the
Lissous, they adopt the; following method of conveying their
messages or transacting business : — For a contract between two-
parties, they take two bits of wood about 12 inches long by i^
inch wide, care being had that they should be identical in
all points, and cut on each face a similar number of notches,
generally a little larger on one side than the other.
The '^ nioukc^" as the Chinese call this tally, is thus a

reminder. Each notch signifies a word or phrase. In cases of

168

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

an agreement made before witnesses, should one of the contract-
ing parties break a clause, the other may call upon him to
produce a " inoukd" and verify it in presence of witnesses. If
used as a letter, the messenger must repeat the meaning of each
notch. Here are two examples : —

No. 1 " nioukc^" has reference to a Lissou custom. A thief has
been e.xpelled from a village ; a residence is assigned him under
the patronage of someone who will be answerable for him.

'' Moiilu'" (i).

The toussou has said . .

if you have a [jatron . . ^

you may dwell in this phice .

. . The toussou has warned nie off
. . and forliidden

to dwell in this place
because I have robbed
he is always stealing mules and
horses.

A and C are spaces on the board representing the arbitrator.
/> represents the patron.

-iWoiikc" (2).

\

S

. . The toussou has given (me)

s

, . to me . . . (here follows name

of bearer)

s

. . his daughter

s

. eldest (or 2nd, 3rd, etc.)

s

. . to wife

s
s

. . age of wife in years

„ „ months
clays

. date of her birth.

V:,,.,. ^

169

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

After this digression let us resume. In the afternoon we
entered woods of pine and hohn oak, the latter a speciality
among the trees of Thibet. At night the men made a great
fire, for there was no stint of fuel, and a picturesque oval-
shaped camp was formed round it, while we took a long rest
before the morrow.

13th ([uly). • — Descent continued; we shortly sighted the
Mekong again running in discoloured rapids. Coming so recently
from the Salwen, it seemed small, and its valley more confined
and less green than the latter. Hamlets, with a few rice-fields,
began to appear, and near them large drying stacks like gibbets.
We stopped in the Minchia village of Piao-tsen, surrounded by
a white mud wall with half-demolished flanking bastions. When
we entered the enclosure there were but few houses to be seen,
and the ground was chiefly occupied by tobacco plantations.
Here we were only a three-days' foot journey from Fey-long-
kiao ; but I did not regret the elbow we had made, since it had
allowed of our e.xploring the Salwen, and deriving much useful
information towards the solution of an important geographical
problem.

At Piao-tsen we installed ourselves in a pagoda, and here we
celebrated the Fourteenth of July with a sweet omelette and
cigars. For eighteen days we had not seen what the Chinese
term a la iifan, or place of any size, and our regaining a little
more comfort was the signal for four of our men to abandon us.
I made no attempt to prevent them ; our troop must weed itself
out into the survival of the fittest for the still more arduous
work remaining. Among the deserters was Chantzeu, a man
who had been with us ever since Mongtse, and who had had
less toil and more indulgence than the others. We had been

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

particularly good to him, giving him more pay than he was
entitled to ; and yet here, in the prospect of increased labour, the
ungrateful hound left us without even a word of parting. The
makotou continued to a^ive us satisfaction, and, after two davs'
suffering from what we at one time feared to be a whitlow, was
now nearly fit again. The only fault to be found with him was

V,

'"^m^.

'^^M^.'f^'

' /f.a-^y

Attachment of Cord Bridge at I'iao-tsen.

his inability to make the mafous obey him ; when they refused a
task, he did it himself

The defection was supplied by four Minchias, and we were
aeain able to set forward. As we left Piao-tsen we saw the
first cord bridge over the Mekong. It was constructed of two
hawsers of twisted bamboo, made fast to a stake on either bank,
propped by big stones. For the crossing a small wooden saddle,
called liou-pang, was attached to a running line {/iou-so). and
the person secured in it by leg and shoulder straps. It behoved

171

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

you to keep your hands clasped on the saddle, clear of the
friction of the rope. Once mounted and set in motion, it was a
slide down one side, and a ])ull and scramble up the other by

Mode i)( Crossing on a Single-line Bridge.

hands and feet. 1 n some narrow channels there is a double cable,

and it may be done at a single rush. But at Piao-tsen the crossing

took a quarter of an hour, and a considerable expenditure of energy.

We held on our way up the right shore of the Mekong, and

172

FROM TALI TO TSP:K0U

this continued for more than a month. The scenery in the valley
was remarkable. In one bend, where there was opposite a small
military outpost, the red-tinged river made a regular series of
serpentines, above which the path clung to the cornice of the cliff,
whence we looked across to a barren mountain-side streaked with
many-coloured strata, like a painter's palette. This blending of
desolation and rich tones was the despair of the photographer. It
reminded me, as well as the others, of certain aspects of Africa.

In the evening Joseph explained to me the meaning of some
little withered firs we had noticed stuck before the houses. The
tree is planted on the ist of January as a sign of gladness, and
is supposed to bring luck and money. They call it lao-tieti-chon
(the tree that shakes the sapecks). This Chinese custom recalls
the European Christmas-tree.

On the 15th (July) we halted in a village called Tono. The
inhabitants designated themselves Tonos. This was a tribe we
had not j-et encountered. Their dress was Chinese ; but their
eyes were wrinkled and their faces wider than the Chinese.
Questioned by us, they professed to be the only ones of their
clan, and that their ancestors had come here a lone time back ■
their dialect was akin to the Lissou. Their reception was
friendlv, but their information untrustworthy : accordino- to
them it would be impossible to proceed with mules on this side
of the Mekong. As only that very morning our caravan had
by making a detour successfully circumvented an apparently
insurmountable obstacle of projecting rock, we were not likely to
be deterred by their reports. Before quitting the Tonos I took
a few photographs of the crowd that surrounded us. I have
rarely seen a collection of types so hideous : the group might
have stood for models in a picture of criminals in Hades.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Squint-eyed, goitred, toothless, here a wen and there a tumour,
no single deformity was lacking for the caricature. The very
children were horrible. One little object waddled alone ; we
gave him a handful of rice ; he retreated gravely, turning from
time to time towards us a bulbous head with bulging eyes — a
perfect little monster. A hoary old man with shaven pate,
deprived of his queue, leaned his fleshless claw upon a crutch,
and watched us with a fixed regard, half hidden by his over-
hanging lids. His nose touched his chin, and he was micro-
cephalous. We did not linger among such a repulsive company.
For a new tribe it was a very disreputable one.

17th (July). — The march was without incident yesterday and
to-day, always skirting the hill or the river, into which one mule
fell, but a few blows with the pick given by the makotou in
advance generally rendered the passage wide enough for the
animals. On the next day we had to engage four or five
villagers to help our men ; our gang thus beginning, without
remuneration from the Imperial Government, the hard labour
of road-making which was to continue for a long distance. We
met some P^-Lissous speaking the same tongue as the Ain-
Lissous, but seeming less of Chinese. Joseph said that the
P^-Lissous are pure bred and indigenous. Men and women
alike were swarthy ; the former clad in a long white overcoat
embellished with sort of epaulettes, descending to the knees and
often fitting close to the figure. Some among them had long-
swords with' straight blades wide at the end — their only dangerous
part ; they carried them in a section of a wooden sheath. The
women were often naked to the waist and of statuesque pro-
portions ; they had a little hempen skirt and a Chinese cap
decked with cowries and round white discs, which were said to

174

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

be brought from Thibet, and looked to me as if cut out of
large shells. The greater number of them wore collars of plaited
straw, mother-of-pearl, agate, or red and blue beads, apparently
of English manufacture. Both sexes always smoked pipes. The
Lissous are very fond of tobacco and spirits. I noticed several of
the men and even one woman with an earthen flask slung round
their necks, from which they constantly took a pull ; the result
was to make them very loquacious. I thought of the probable
effect on these ignorant people of the introduction of civilisation
with its vices ; and what a fine field for extermination with bad
whisky the English would have among them, as with the
Redskins of North America in the past.

We camped near the village of Tatsasu, having been hindered
by an incident on the way. A pallid, evil-looking individual
had persisted in dogging us, and made an attempt to turn one
of our mules aside into another path, with the probable intention
of stealing it, when the makotou and Joseph detected him and
promptly haled him off to the headman of the village. But that
functionary would have nothing to do with the matter, so they
brought the culprit back to camp, and we ordered him to be
bound. Fa surpassed himself in the job, and trussed him up
like a bale, with his hands behind his back and a guy-rope to
his pigtail. While this human bundle lay upon the ground, an old
man appeared from the village and claimed him as his child. After
some discussion we yielded up our captive to him, with the pro-
mise that it he crossed our path again we would heave him over
the edge without fail. The aged parent placed his inert offspring
on his shoulders, and thus loaded hobbled oft' to the village.

Tatsasu is a dependence of Li-kiang, and is governed by
two chiefs — a Minchia and a Lissou toussou. They sent us

1/5

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

1/

'^'

" Kagle Beak.'

rice, eggs, and a packet of tobacco, which was a great gift for
them, and a small flask of tchaotiou. The last was protected
by a cover of finely-plaited hide, very secure.

After Tatsasu the road became worse again. We thought

regretfully of the
comparative ease
with which un-
encumbered horse
or foot men with
porters would ac-
complish three
times the length of
our stage in a
day. A single rock
would sometimes
cause an hour's
delay or a mile
of detour to our
pack animals, with
an unload and carry
in between. On
the other hand, the
natives of this
region, who had
been depicted to us
in such threatening colours, proved willing to help for slender
recompense. At this toil a big Lissou mafou, engaged at
Loukou, and whom, from his profile, we called " Eagle Beak,"
worked harder than any. Strong as a Turk, he always marched

barefoot, and with tobacco and an occasional nip of brandy

176

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

declared himself perfectly content to see new country. As for
the last-joined Minchias from Piao-tsen, they were green hands,
afraid if they went far that they would not find their way back,
— "Sunt rustici," quoth Joseph.

After every portage a rest was imperative ; if we did six
or eight miles in the day we thought ourselves fortunate.
Nor was this valley of the Mekong anything but monotonous,
with its arid slopes, grey rocks, pine-clad ridges, and everlasting
murmur of the great red river in its bed. I found my distraction
in observing the habits of our own men and of the villagers. In
these parts we saw some variety in the female costume ; a pleated
skirt down to the knee, like the Lolos of .Setchuen, a small blue
and white apron, short dark blue broidered jacket open in front,
and often a heavy turban in place of the little white disc'd cap.
Not far from the village of Lakouti we were pursued by a ragged
old man wearino- a larije necklace of brown wooden beads, to
which were fastened a bell and a bronze medallion. This strange
being stopped us with much gesticulation, and, falling on his
knees, addressed me in a long speech with many queer inter-
jections. He said the inhabitants were indigent Lolos {sic) from
whom he could not ask anything, but that we ought to give him
an alms. It appeared that the poor old mendicant was the priest
of Lakouti. Religion seemed ill paid in this locality. It certainly
was reduced to simple elements ; for we learned that the Lissous
worship Heaven and Earth, and have few rites.

In the evening we arrived near a little hamlet hidden in a
hollow, from which the inhabitants, each uglier than the other,
came out and prostrated themselves before us repeatedly. Our
advent seemed to have greatly alarmed them. One ol these
Lissous bore upon his breast a cuirass made of bark bound round

M 1/7

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

him by a sash. He was announced as a "brave," — euphemistic for
brigand, I imagine. As we set out, we noticed by the side of the
path two posts with cross arms, joined by a chain of bamboo links,
on the off arm a rough wooden bow, on the near one a sword ; sup-
posed to represent armed men guarding the village from sickness.

During the day we passed through the extensive village of
Feoumoto. The inhabitants were Lamasjen, also called Petsen,
with a dialect similar to the Minchia. Opposite, on the left bank,
we perceived the little town of Yiim-pan-kai, whose white houses
and grey-gabled roofs bespoke it Chinese. Although connected
with Feoumoto by a cord bridge, we preferred to keep the river
between us.

At daybreak we discovered that two of Roux's valises, left
uncorded near his tent, were gone. The thieves had also relieved
Chantzeu's successor of a packet of opium, and — a far more
serious loss- — had abstracted from close by his head the theodolite.
We found its case at a little distance. The "Doctor" was in
despair. It was not the value of the instrument we regretted,
but the impossibility of continuing his astronomical and magnetic
observations. Our suspicions pointed to the villagers, who were
prowling round the camp during the night. We summoned the
headman, and promised him a reward if the things were restored,
and threatened him with a complaint to Li-kiang In the contrary
event. The inhabitants, meanwhile, remained placidly seated on
a hillock watching us. In the afternoon we resolved to go in
person to the village of Tchen-ki-oue. We went armed, and took
with us Joseph and Fa. The chief replied, with some justice,
that our arrival on the previous evening had not been formally
notified to him, and that, in consequence, he had been unable to
take precautions to guard us against robbers, with which the

178

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

district was infested. Our sole chance seemed to rest in a
sufificiently big reward ; but against this was to be set their
ignorance of European promises as opposed to Chinese.

After a whole day's delay, without any success, we had to
go on our way. The theodolite was irrevocably lost before it
could become historic. Poor theodolite! After having- travelled
to Yola on the Benoue and the Adamaoua ; after having assisted
in the French conquest of the Soudan ; after being carried
into Asia to complete investigations northward of Garnier's, it
deserved a better fate than to become the pipe-stem or door-
bolt of some miserable Lamasjen, or it might be the tutelary
deity of a pagan village. Some future traveller may thus unearth
it, and read in it the evidence of bygone French pioneers.

Before our departure, the chief came to assure us of his good-
will, and to console us by relating how a few years before Tchen-
ki-oue had been pillaged by three hundred Loutses from the
Salwen. Two of our mafous, whom we had sent over to Yiim-
pan-kai for stores, also brought word on returning that they had
seen there the brother of the well-known Yangynko of Tali, who
strongly advised us not to persevere on the right bank because
of the jejcu. We had had these savages held over us ever since
Lao, and intended to believe in them when we saw them, not before.

After an uneventful march we halted near a wretched little
wooden village, where at night the villagers asked our permission
to dance and sing, which we willingly granted. The men sat
in a circle and chanted a not unpleasing cadence in slow measure,
of a semi-religious sound, each strophe of which was marked by
a prolonged note, preluding an abrupt drop in the tone. As they
sang, they threw their heads back and half closed their eyes in
a state of apparent abstraction. We were the theme, it seemed,

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

of their improvisation, in which they rejoiced over the advent of

three distinguished strangers who could not fail to L;ive them

presents. With the entrance of several women, the scene became

more lively, and our men, especially the big Lissou niafou, who

showed a splendid set of teeth in his childlike glee, forgot their

toils awhile. Meanwhile, the song gave place to a dance ; the

performers rose, the women ranging themselves arm in arm at

the lower end, the men opposite them, each leaning on his

neighbour's shoulder. They looked like groups in some grand

spectacle, with a blazing pine log to do duty for footlights. Then

the band began to wheel in circles, the male chorus keej)ing pace,

and from time to time poising their step, while the women swayed

their bodies in response. The whole scene reminded me of a

dance of Thibetan women I had witnessed in the house of the

chief Mussulman at Batang.

24th (July). — We made little progress — the path was so steep

in places that it required all the art of our men, aided by natives,

to overcome it. Eventually we stopped for the night close to a

village said to be tenanted by jcjeii. The inspection of a Chinese

visiting card which they did not understand, and of our arms which

they did, secured us a friendly reception. In the evening, while

the inhabitants danced as on the preceding day, I questioned some

of them. They were still of the Lamasjen tribe, ancient Minchia

crossed with Chinese. All carried at their belt a long-stemmed

pipe, a round tobacco-box, and a knife, and over their shoulders

was sluncr a hide or string eame-baof. When asked what was their

religious creed, they generally replied with a laugh : "After death,

all is finished." Nevertheless, two or three days subsequent to a

burial they place a stone on the tomb to ward off the -Spirit of the

Mountains. Priests and altars there were none ; they seemed

180

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

happy to lead an animal life without beliefs, or punishment for
crime other than the vengeance of the victim's kindred. Desirous
of learning- more about these natives, I invaded several of their
dwellings. They were for the most part built of wood round a
centre court, in which were the pigs. Within was a dais for sleep-
ing, as in Arab houses. There were few implements visible ; but
one snare I noticed for taking pheasants, of wide meshes on a light
wooden frame, — the men envelop themselves in straw and crouch
in the stubble, and the birds taking them for rice-shocks are skilfully
netted. Another weapon of the chase was the cross-bow, the arrows
for which are carried in a quiver covered with the skin of the wild ass.

In the interior I detected no sign of any worship, but on
emerging I observed under the roof a row of miniature bows and
some joss-sticks. The occupants told me they reverenced Mazi,
the Spirit of the Waters ; Wousinkoui and Masimpo, two brothers
who formerly fell into the water and became superior beings ; and
Tsomane, the Spirit of Evil. So that it would appear they are not
such infidels as they professed, although they persisted in their
disbelief in a future state, or any after punishment for assassins.
This village presented a remarkable example of a community
associated for the defence of mutual interests without any fear of
final retribution.

Sickness was very prevalent in the district, chiefly fevers follow-
ing excessive heat. Suicide was of ordinary occurrence. When a
member of the tribe fell under the ban of his parents or his neigh-
bours, he put an end to himself with a dose of opium. Monogamy
is the habitual custom with them. At our departure they bade us
beware of the eggs that might be offered us farther on ; they are
often rendered deadly by being steeped in poison. In connection
with this danger I recalled a story told by the missionaries in

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Chinese Setchuen, of leprosy being often conveyed by the pro-
miscuous feeding of the fowls in the infected localities.

Joseph furnished me with interesting details concerning the
Lissou tribes. Among the Ain-Lissous both births and deaths are
celebrated as with the Chinese. The Koua-Lissous on the occa-
sion of a birth offer presents and felicitations to the mother. In
China the days of each moon are designated thus : —

1st day by rat.
2nd ,, ,, ox.
3rd ,, ,, tiger.
4th ,, „ rabbit.
5th ,, ,, dragon.
6th ,, ,, serpent.
7 th „ „ horse.
8th „ ,, sheep.
9th ,, „ monkey,
loth ,, ,, fowl.
I ith „ ,, dog.
1 2th ,, „ pig.
The Koua-Lissous regard the day of the horse as most favour-
able for burial ; the Pd-Lissous always the day succeeding death.
They plant a post before the grave, and hang on it the bow and
arrows and wood of the plough of the former owner, and near them
leave a bowl and a few sapecks, that the deceased may not be
destitute of what was his in life.

Our halting-place on the 26th (July) was the Lamasjen village
of Feou-tsen. While the unloading proceeded, I watched a stalwart
girl who with open flowing white garments leaned her bare arms
with copper bracelets on a stone, while she gazed intently on the

work, impervious to the importunities of a goat that butted at her

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FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

elbow. If she resembled Esmeralda, she too had her Quasimodo :
a few steps off glowered a little wizen, bandy-legged old hunchback.
Here was the foreground lor a picture, the quaintness of which was
enhanced by the grim surroundings whence we viewed it ; a lower
apartment filled with biers transformed into tables, benches, and
settees, in the midst of which our hosts obligingly described a few
of their strange usages.

When the Lamasjens marry, the wedded couple live at first
apart with their respective parents, and do not set up together for
several years, or until the birth of a son. This custom also prevails
among the Lolos of Eastern Yunnan. Again, if female twins are
born, or two women in the same village each have a daughter on
the same day, the man who in process of time courts one must also
espouse the other, — their fate is regarded as inseparable. As
amongst the Pe-Lissous, before mentioned, the implements of the
defunct are placed upon his tomb, with the addition of a sapeck
inserted between the dead man's lips — none other than the ancient
provision of Charon's obol for the ferry. Here again the Lamasjens
told us that they did not look to a future existence ; their burial
rites would therefore seem only adapted from the Chinese without
knowledge of their significance.

From an administrative point of view this region depends
indirectly upon China through the medium of local toussous. The
Imperial Government organises the jurisdiction of the latter in
such a manner that it shall never form a compact circle but always
be a segment. Whilst in China itself the mandarins are constantly
changing at the will of the Court at Pekin, here the office of toussou,
as well as that of headman of the village, is hereditary. On her
borders China applies the system of central supremacy with a light
hand, and, provided that the small tribute is regularly paid, does

183

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

not look too closely into the doings on her frontier. And, on
their side, the toussous are flattered to feel that they derive their
authority from, and are recognised by, the Imperial Government.
The natives generally regard the Chinese as riparian owners of the
Mekong by right of superior race. Every year the toussou, or a
delegate kinsman, makes a tour of office through the villages sub-
servient to him, on which occasion each family has to pay him two
taels five tsiens of silver and five taels of opium. In the villages
directly subject to China, the chief has to remit annually an average
of from fifteen to twenty taels of silver to the authorities. He will
probably put aside at least an equal sum for himself. With regard
to the orround, the inhabitants have the risht to till waste lands
without rent or other formality, and conveyance of such is a
matter for private arrangement.

On the 27th (July) and the two following days our journey
was prosecuted with little incident but much toil. Rain had
rendered the path slippery, and in places we had to shore it
with trunks and re-lay it with branches. In the open we noticed
vertical slabs of slate placed to keep off the monkeys, which
are numerous and destructive. To add to the discouracjement
of the troop, several false alarms caused dismay among the
mafous. A band of thirty men issued suddenly from the forest
with pressing offers of assistance with the loads. At another
spot Joseph had an apparition of a man armed with a long
sword, who confronted him without speaking, and then vanished.
These frequent scares made every countryman a brigand in their
eyes : in ours, the natives, robbers though they may have been,
were only very dirty and very repulsive ; especially the men,
for the women were often white-skinned, merry, and even

graceful, though tattered.

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FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

The dwellings were always filthy ; we slept better in a
passage than in the chief's apartment, which besides was littered
with an assortment of articles such as grain bins, ears of corn,
bows, bird snares, a broken matchlock, wooden spoons, a flail,
bamboo-hooped buckets, and a kind of iron grid on which were
kindled bits of resinous wood for light. Over the door there
might be a white drawing of men on horses, though it required
an effort of imagination to Ofuess what the artist had intended.

In the woods which we traversed at this time the wild olive
flourished, in appearance just like that of our own country ;
and here again after a long lapse we found specimens of the

t^^i

Native Designs on Door Lintel.

palm or macaw-tree. How did its seeds find their way hither?

The wild vine, plum, and hazel were abundant, also some

excellent little wild apples in which we instructed Nam in the

art of making compotes. The country itself varied little : on

one side ran the Mekong at our feet, always yellow and muddy

in a deep channel, and on our left towered above us the range

that separated us from the Salwen, its savage peaks and

skirmisher pines reminding one of the Dolomites of the Tyrol.

As the 30th (Jul_\) wore on the route became better, and

by the evening of that day we reached a townlet which we had

been told was of some importance. We found In-Chouan, as it

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

was named, divided into Chang In-Chouan (upper) and Chia
In-Chouan (lower), composed of a few scattered houses and the
ruins of others. Nine years before, the chief of the place had
massacred a neighbouring famiK. The Li-kiang-fou sent a
mandarin to chastise him, who was himself beaten and robbed.
Thereupon China despatched a column of one thousand men
under the Li-kiang-fou in person, which killed the offending
chief and his nephew, occupied the place for three months, and
executed summary vengeance upon the inhabitants. The result
was what we beheld. The blackened walls of the slain chief's
residence afforded us a good kitchen, and in the moonlight the
aspect of the bivouac among the desolate remains was weird.
One might have taken it for a bandits' lair or a coiners' den
rather than the peaceable roasting of a pig at the camp fire of
the caravan of three French travellers.

Before leaving we questioned the people as to the valley
of the Salwen, known here as the Lou-kiang. They told us
that it was a three days' march to that river by paths wholly
impassable for mules, with numerous villages belonging to the
H^-Lissous or savage Loutses. " Non cognoscunt urbanitateni "
was Joseph's comment, as he further imparted to us a curious
fancy gleaned in course of conversation from the Lamasjens.
The latter believe that the grains of rice were brought by dogs,
and that if they had no dogs they would have no seed. They
could offer no ground for the superstition other than that their
grandfathers had told them so.

Having been refused supplies by a chief the day before, on

the 1st (August) Briffaud, Joseph, Sao, myself, and a guide

diverged from the caravan to try and find the village of Tdki,

•where we were told we might obtain information as to the

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FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

SaKven valley. After following a path to the wooded brink of

a torrent, the track ceased. We had to separate, and I struck

a trail in the thicket that brought me to a secluded nook, where

on two opposing boulders, half hidden under the leaves, a fallen

tree trunk spanned the chasm. A fine place for robbers, but

utterly out of the question for mules. There was nothing for

it but to undress and wade with our clothes on our heads. The

water was nipping cold, and the current so swift that only by

joining hands and leaning on a pole could we make head against

it. Having forded the stream, we had to scramble up a frightful

steep on hands and knees. How our mules, unloaded though

they were, ever followed us was a problem : after what I have

seen, I would way^er them to climb anv staircase.

Bv this means we at length reached Teki, two freshly built

villasfes as vet undarkened bv time, and with the thatch still

yellow on the roofs. Among the new buildings protruded many

ruins ; Teki had come in for devastation both by the chieftain

of In-Chouan and by the subsequent Chinese avengers. At the

doors stood scantily clothed women : a slight apron formed their

sole covering ; some even found this too complicated, and preferred

the garb of nature. We checked our mules at the court of an

opium-smoker, who seeing us offering to pay for grain wa.xed

communicative. A bad path was said to lead from here in two

days to the Salwen, there both wide and deep. The Loutses

were clearly Koua-Lissous. Here the word Loutse meant simply

natives of the Lou-kiang, and w-as not applied to a race. The

independent Lissous were reported dangerous ; a few bolder

spirits from the Mekong valley occasionally penetrated their

district at their peril to trade linen, salt, tobacco, and opium

against drucrs and skins. The Loutses made constant incursions

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

hereabouts ; only three days before, they had paid a visit to Tdki
and carried off a resident as a shive.

From Teki we rejoined the caravan near a hamlet whence
the inhabitants issued with lances and seized our mules by the
bridle, but it was only with kindly intent. Farther on we came
across an ill-looking company in a wood armed with bows and
arrows. Our tent that nij^ln was pitched under a larc^e walnut-tree

I ^ii"> ^

'I'linciU ]!c(l iiLiir Ttki.

in which were stuck small white Hags, a religious custom common
in Thibet. Hard by was the village of Toti, which the Loutses
had raided only the day before, capturing two men and a horse.

"Eagle Beak" announced to us that the inhabitants of this
Toti were He-Lissous, and consequently his kinsfolk. We
thought this circumstance would procure us a dance in the even-
ing, but found instead that they were far from being well dis-

190

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

posed towards us. They were heard in conference: "If the big
men come among us without notice, it can only be to kill ; we
will be beforehand with them." We had only just finished
dinner when the rallying horn was heard, and large fires were lit
on the surrounding heights. As a precaution, I served out car-
tridges, and recommended the men to watch by turns ; on which
they hugged their guns and responded, '' clieulo ! chculo !" (all
right !), and promised to do sentry-go in spells of two hours.
Finding us thus prepared, some of the people came in from the
village offering us dried fungi, and bidding us not to have any
fear. I took the opportunity to tell the chief that we were in no
way alarmed : our treatment of the villagers would correspond
with their treatment of us ; if they attacked us we were ready
for them. They then retired, and we lay down to rest. I woke
in about an hour. It was as dark as pitch ; the fire was half
out, and every man was as sound as a babe. It was no good
waking them ; so back to bed again ; one must run some risks in
travel. But the Toti folk missed a good chance that night.

2nd (August). — We had three Lissous with us to-day, one of
whom, having been plundered by Loutses, turned the tables on
them by robbing the robbers of a sword and a red sash which
he was wearing. By his account the Loutses subsist entirely by
pillage. Asked why the Mekong Lissous did not retaliate upon
those of the Salwen, he said the latter were better armed, and
they were afraid of them. One of these Lissous produced a
curious musical instrument formed of three small palettes of bam-
boo with stops. By applying the stops to his teeth and making
them vibrate in turn with his finger, his open mouth acting as a
sounding board, he drew from them a soft and plaintive tone, so

low that one had to be quite close to hear it. The instrument

191

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

is of Loutse origin, and the Lissous will sit for hours amusing
themselves with it.

On the 3rd (August) we stopped at Fong-Chouan. The
Mekong here is forced into a complete S by rice terraces, having
on the left bank another large village called Ouei-ten. The eye
hailed with pleasure the reappearance of green cultivation after
the dreary spell of gaunt mountains we had passed. At our
midday halt Sao and Joseph exercised themselves with some
cross-bow practice. The weapon is made of very tough wood,
with a notch cut on the haft, and discharges featherless arrows
with sufficient force to pierce a tree at forty paces. The point of
the arrow is of wood, filled just above the actual tip with a
virulent poison extracted from a geranium-leafed plant ; the arrow
head being easily detached to receive the unguent, breaks off in
the wound. The natives are never without this arm, even at
their work in the fields ; many likewise carrying a sword about 3^
feet long, rectangular at the end, and as sharp as a razor.

At Fong-Chouan I inquired of Joseph the meaning of the
images and designs of Chinese pattern that filled the pagoda in
which we slept. He expounded them thus: — "Against the wall
you observe a table or altar on which are three panels. The
left-hand one depicts the Water King : clothed in yellow, with a
sword in one hand and a red sphere in the other, one of his
feet rests upon the head of a marine monster ; beside him crouch
two devils. In the centre panel is the Mountain King, the
greatest of the three : his head and his body are white ; he has
two faces, each with three eyes. The mouths are open, and dis-
close one tooth on either side longer than the rest ; they are for
defence. Upon his brow are red flames ; around his neck are

hung miniature human heads. He has six arms ; the two upper

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FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

ones support twin discs, red and white, which are the sun and
moon ; the two middle hands are clasped in prayer ; the two
lowest hold, the one gold, the other a spear round which is
twined a serpent. On either side of the god is one carrying
books and a pen. The right-hand panel represents the Animal
Kinof : his countenance is adorned with lon^" moustaches ; he
grasps in one hand a sword and in the other a cake or fruit,
upon his head a red cap such as is worn by mandarins. The
god is seated on a tiger, and at his side stand two priests in
long robes, with shaven heads."

There was a vessel before the panel of the Mountain King
containing small bamboo stalks inscribed with two characters,
phrases from a religious book ; the credulous who wish to know
their destiny shake the vessel and draw forth a stalk, and inter-
pret the sentence according to desire. This manner of reading the
future reminded one of the usa^e of cutting the Bible at hazard.

In the centre of the pagoda was hung from the platform a
square paper, marked thus — ■

The little circles
arranged round the
square ii, d, c, r/, arc
silver, and bear the
names of the twenty-
eight stars.

The little circles
arranged round the
square e,f,g, h, are
red, and bear the
Kiatse or cycle
(names of days).

The circles i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 contain pictures, i, 3, 4, 5, 7 red, and 2, 6, 8 silver.
N 193

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

These discs are called the Pakoua, and represent the system according to which are
divided the elements, as water, earth, etc. Following the diagonals af, he, de, gb, are hung
small flags inscribed with characters to frighten the devils.

At the entry to the pagoda are four words in large characters, meaning :

TO INVOKE IT IS NECESSARY WITH FEAR CLEARLY

On cither side of the door two long tablets bear inscriptions :

Left.
With three eyes {the Moiattahi A'/»ir).
Can see all.
Can see three thousand (hours).

Right.

With six shoulders.

Can govern the Louko {the Loiiko is an
assemblage of six things, — sky, earth,
mankind, eternity, money, great chief).

We were detained a day in Fong-Chouan by the searcli for a
runaway mule. During our stay the Loutses attacked a village
three miles distant, killing one man and wounding and kidnap-
ping several others. We derived some more particulars of the
Salwen or Lou-kiang, which hereabouts was called equally the
Nong-kiang and the Nong-tse-kiang. Another river was said
to flow near it in the same direction, named the Kiou-kiang,
and this our after-experiences proved to be correct. Report also
spoke of silver and copper mines on the left bank of the Mekong,
at one or two days' march from Ouei-ten.

On the 5th (August), at starting, 1 noticed two Lissous who

were wearing grey robes, Thibetan fashion, and j^laited bamboo

necklets : they proved to be traders from the Salwen valley,

offering for exchange many Loutse objects, all made out of

bamboo — long-stemmed pipes, woven baskets, pitchers with handles,

etc. Judging from these articles, the transmontane tribes were

more industrious than the poverty-stricken Lamasjens. Our stage

was curtailed by a landslip, and we were promised an entire

194

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

cessation of the track two days ahead, where a hundred men would
not be able to clear it. Both absence and destruction of means
of communication were attributable to the terror inspired by the
everlasting Loutses, the left bank and safety being usually pre-
ferred to this one.

While in camp the villagers constantly came begging for
remedies, chiefly for eye troubles ; and I made a large quantity of
boric acid. Amonaf our visitors were two with a kind of leather
cuirass protecting the back only, which suggested to us that that
was the part they most often presented to their foes ; but they
averred that were it in front they could not level their cross-
bows on its slippery surface. One of them also possessed some
balls which he would not part with at any price ; they were a
precious remedy against all ills, made from the gall of bears.
Questioned as to the treatment the Loutses accorded to their
prisoners, these warriors said they could be ransomed for from
nine to fifteen oxen a man ; if unredeemed, they w^ere put to hard
labour as slaves. The women were made bondwomen of, rarely
married. The slaves might intermarry, and their children would
be free ; moreover, any captured children were brought up as
their own in liberty. The accounts, therefore, of the ferocity of
these Loutses would seem to be exaggerated.

To show the destitution of these villagers, I saw one going
round among our mules with a sack, sweeping up the grains of
paddy, mixed with twigs, that had dropped from their nose-bags.

Another short stage, and on the 7th (August) a dead stop
with an abrupt end to the path. By dint of incessant and very
severe toil, our mafous, aided by hired natives clearing brushwood,
cutting down and filling up, pushed and pulled the animals
throucjh ; so that at nightfall we were over the worst of it, and

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

reached a welcome hamlet. These emergency Lissous were a light-
hearted set. After all their exertions they sat round the fire at the
end of their long pipes, laughing and chatting, with no sign of
exhaustion. They took what we gave them cheerfully, and made

=---~:7^

Lissous at Lamcti.

their way back to their villages at once, haunted only by the fear

of having left their women and children at the mercy of marauders.

Our hosts at Lameti consented to perform a dance for our

benefit, and a threshing-floor having been turned into the ball-

room, the orchestra tuned up. It consisted of four musicians — a

flageolet, a violin with two strings, a guitar with four, and an

196

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

instrument of slender bamboo strips made to vibrate upon the
teeth. This last was played by an old woman, who was also
mistress of the ceremonies. The air, though not very varied, was
soft and rhythmic. The dancers formed a ring and began from
their stations, alternately advancing and withdrawing their legs.
Presently the villagers, male and female, gathered behind the
circle and commenced to beat time loudly with their feet. Now the
ancient Fury who led the orchestra stepped into the centre. With
her commanding stature, parchment-wrinkled face, grisled locks
crowned with a chaplet of seeds, and a collaret ot bears' teeth
and claws gleaming upon her breast, she was the personification
of a witch. Faster and wilder grew the measure. The men who
circled round her seemed under a spell, their heads thrown back,
their eyes fixed, their hair Hying, lost to all sense save that of
motion. It needed our intervention to bring them back to earth ;
so we despatched them to practise reality in road-mending against
the morrow.

The people told me they had no priests, and that when any-
one died they put his arms and implements near his grave, that
his spirit might miss nothing in its flight towards the mountain-
tops, beyond which they knew no farther resting-place.

The dwellings in the ne.xt village were ranged alongside each
other under a common roof, with a central rectangular court for
combined defence against attack. As a consequence of so many
families living together, the greatest laxity of morals seemed tc
prevail. As for the chief he had only four wives ; the fifth was
lately deceased. Amongst this branch of the Lissous incom-
patibility of disposition is sufficient cause for separation, and either
party is then free to marry again.

At night the dance was again readily organised, to the delight

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

of the villagers and the amusement of our men, who transformed
themselves into link-boys with resinous pine branches. It was
kept up with spirit, and great was the appreciation when we
ourselves chose partners and "took the floor." The performance
was in most respects similar to that of the preceding night, save
that the surroundings, lit by a brilliant moon over the shoulder of
an ebon mass of mountain, were even wilder in this out-of-the-
world spot than before. Indeed, so secluded was the village,
that only the merest chance had discovered it to us : no possible
outlet from this angle could have been guessed for the river.
By degrees, as they grew tired, the dancers withdrew from the
circle, leaving three to foot it in a kotchoau (triple set). This they
executed at fixed distances apart, gradually contracting till their
shoulders touched, then radiating again, wheeling, pausing, leap-
ing, without a moment's cessation of the instruments ; the time
was perfect, and the dance demoniac, though it did not lack grace.
A pas dc deux ended, like a cossack dance.

To this succeeded singing. A woman with a very fair voice
began an air which the others took up in chorus. Then followed
improvisation by one alone, or by one against another, the burden
of the songs being all in honour of us, as shown in the literal)
translation thus roughly given me : —

Scupa a/a

mamon

tdd/co

The lords almost

impossible to

see now once

Seupa

dzcu/a

0

the lords

have found

well

T6ga

seupa

/dinia

now

the lords

have come hither

cheu

kai tai

■pi;

no more

of ills ;

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FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

or fuller, thus : — " Three such great lords had never before come

to us. It is very hard to find us. Now they are here, it is well.

Before, the Loutses were always plundering us. Now that they

have come, the Loutses are greatly afraid. For many years we

were in sadness ; we had many ills. Now we are happy. The

three great lords pass our dwelling : henceforth our fields will

flourish, our harvests will be full." Poor, childish, ignorant folk,

with no other joys than the pipe, the dance, the song, and love of

species shared in common with all creation ! Before leaving in the

morning I saw a sufficiently wretched sight. In one of the houses

a man was chained to a post neck and heels, though his evil plight

admitted of his smoking still. He was a Loutse, one of the

redoubtable brigands who, lagging behind in a recent foray, had

been caught. I could not see much to choose between him and

his captors.

The entertainment of the preceding night, or the better state of

the road on the following day, put the men in good-humour. The

makotou also, who had suffered from fever, was nearly well. He

attributed his cure to the sacrifice of a little porker to the God of

the Mountain as compensation for disturbance in path cutting. We

passed the night in a clean house, belonging, strangely enough, to

a Chinese. It was some time since we had seen any of his

confraternity, and we had not missed them. But this one was a

better specimen — a merchant of Yunnan, who had married a

Lissou and had two daughters, the younger of whom we saw. The

elder had gone to Ouisi to find a husband. The father took me

into his confidence, and poured out his paternal woes. Suitors

hereabouts were so poor that his two girls, when they wedded,

would only bring him ten taels apiece ; at Toti he might have

safely reckoned on two hundred.

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Here at Loza the Loutses were again in evidence, and night
and day ten men watch on the brow of the hill to signal their
approach. In the morning we were witnesses of a thank-offering to
the Spirit of the Earth on behalf of an old woman recovering from
illness. On the ground in front of the sufferer's door had been set
up a small wooden framework model of a house with a bough stuck
at each support. The structure covered some saucers of seeds and
cakes, and behind it was arranged a measure of rice with two cups
of tchaotiou upon it, and a distaff, the thread of which was twined
round the frame. A coarse paste effigy of the Spirit presided over
the whole. Before it was a basket containing a straw and three
vertical bits of wood. An old tongpa (Lissou sorcerer) squatted
beside it, muttering incantations. In one hand he grasped a fowl,
which he first sprinkled with a twig dipped in the libation, while he
recited the names of the spirits invited to the feast. Then, having
opened the fowl's throat, he smeared the idol and the posts with the
blood, and applied feathers to the parts thus anointed. The bird
was then plucked and thrown into a pot, and the repast was ready
tor the invisible guests. For his own portion the wizard received
the plates of rice.

During the next two days the valley opened out and cultivation
increased, with splendid walnut, chestnut, and peach trees, the fruit
of the latter unfortunately not yet ripe. Villages were numerous ;
and side by side with our old acquaintances the Lamasjens we met
with yet another tribe, the Mossos, of whom more hereafter.

It was now that we suddenly descried, on the far side of the

river, some black tents, whose peculiar form, as well as the thick

smoke they emitted, did not leave us long in doubt as to their

owners. They were Thibetan ; and their presence at this spot

assured us that we were within a few days of the land of the

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FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

Lamas, the northern limit of our wanderings. We hailed the
sight with joy ; for behind those few black rags and that smoke
lay a meaning that sufficed to put heart into the whole caravan.

On the iith (August), after passing several streams, where, by
means of wooden planks with shutters, gold washings were being
carried on, we arrived at the village of Into, connected by two
cable bridges with the small town of Hsiao-Ouisi opposite. At
both these places there are Christians, and in the latter we found
a French missionary. Father Tintet, whom I knew at Lioutin-kiao
in 1890. The meeting with a fellow-countryman in so remote a
spot was a great event for us, and for the moment as we chatted
this iarthest recess of China became France.

The news of the station was not good. Father Goutelle, the

doyen of the Thibet Mission, had died ten days previously at Ouisi,

without having realised the dream for which he had laboured forty

years — the recognition of the Roman Catholic religion at Lhaca and

other cities of Thibet. The poor missionaries were in evil case.

Notwithstanding the promise that M. Gdrard had extorted from

the Tsungli-Yamen of the reconstruction of their destroyed stations

at Batang and Atents^, nothing had been done. The viceroy

of Setchuen, having been recalled to Pekin, gave orders before his

departure to demolish the mission houses ; and, just when his spite

had been wreaked, was poisoned. The mandarin of Ouisi followed

suit by committing suicide. The latter had sent in a report avowing

that the stations had received no injury either at Tsekou or Atentse.

It was forwarded through Yiinnan-Sen ; and simultaneously with its

consideration at Pekin a second document, setting out the loss

sustained by the missionaries, arrived from Ta-tsien-lou. The result

of the conflicting evidence was a reprimand, addressed to the

viceroy of Yunnan, who lost no time in passing it on to his

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

subordinate at Ouisi. The latter mandarin read the letter, dined,
and forthwith killed himself in his garden. His successor, furnished
with precise orders to see justice done to the Fathers, presented
himself at Atentse, and inquired who had burned their domicile.
The Lamas replied that they had done so. " For what reason ? " —
" The Fathers prevented the rain." " Do they not eat?" — "Yes."
" Then if they eat they will want harvests like yourselves ; and
if harvests, rain ? " — " But they have money." " Can they eat
money .'^" — And so on. The conclusion was foregone; no com-
pensation was obtained ; the magistrate's secretary was a relative of
the Lamas. We have given the above at length as an instance of
the obstacles the missionaries have to encounter, and of the utter
supineness of Chinese officialdom in face of the articles in the
Treaty of Pekin on the subject. Perhaps some day China, van-
quished on her coasts, penetrated by more civilisation, and, not
improbably, disintegrated by her own internal parties, — notably those
from the side of Thibet, — may relinquish her habitual perversity.

Tidings affecting us personally also reached us here. A letter
from Father Leguilcher at Tali conveyed the intelligence of the
death of our interpreter Joseph's only child. This might have
the effect of detaching a valuable servant. But on my breaking
the news to him, after the first outburst of grief he bore it
with Christian fortitude. "God," said he, "has taken my child;
but we shall meet in heaven. You have present need of me,
and I will follow your fortunes." I was glad to honour his courage,
and to recognise in this singular Chinese a testimony to the Iruit
of our missionaries in the Far East.

From Father Tintet we derived some information of this region.

Though his proselytes were few in number, he was held in respect

by all. The valley being impoverished both by its sterility and

202

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

the improvidence of its inhabitants, one of his endeavours was
to induce the people to store the grain. The rains here are
neither very heavy nor regular, and during a certain season
nothing is seen but a little buckwheat cultivated on the heights.
In the months of January and February it rains a good deal ;
but the cold is never extreme, the minimum temperature being
about 20° Fahr., and there is little snow.

Whilst we had enjoyed the society of our countryman, our men
had not been idle, and with several days' grain supplies ready, and
the season now advanced, we were constrained to be off Ao-ain
we were warned that after a few days it would be impossible to
continue on the right bank. Besides the consideration that the
transport of our numerous caravan to the other side by an insecure
bridge would be a hazardous undertaking, I preferred to adhere
to my original enterprise until it should become absolutely imprac-
ticable. On the right shore of the Mekong we were in unexplored
country. At Hsiao-Ouisi the traveller Cooper, coming from
Atentse, had crossed, as well as several missionaries. All had
quitted the river valley to the south of the town and gone in a
south-west direction ; so that we should have an entirely untrodden
territory before us.

Accordingly, on the 12th (August) we performed a short stage.
Our troop had lost the services of " Eagle Beak " and the two
Minchias, and their places were filled by two Thibetans supplied by
the Father, who himself proposed to accompany us a short distance.
These recruits were Christians, and promised to be good workers. I
was glad to see once more the copper-coloured, large-eyed Mongolian
type and the regulation Thibetan tchaupa ^ and woollen boots.

' A rough woollen tunic reaching to the knees, crossed in front and tied in to the figure
so as to form a pouch wherein pipe, tobacco, and food are carried.

20.^

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

The march of the 13th (August) was a short one to the
villatje of Ngai-hoa, where Father Tintet took leave of us.
Hospitality was offered us by the chief, and we preferred the
shelter of his oratory to that of a bed-chamber where lay his
octogenarian mother. In the chapel was an altar with three
niches, from one of which the goddess Khou-an-yn with her child
in her arms watched over our slumbers. It was said she would
protect us for two nights, but none the less we lost three mules,
which retarded us for a whole day. Nothing was more exasperating
than to discover on the eve of starting that a mule was missing.
It was no use dropping on the men ; they would simply have
left us. Patience and search were the only remedies ; and in
these Joseph, with his good-sense and e.xperience, was unrivalled.
Roux, who was in haste to reach the frontier of Thibet, exclaimed
at one of these checks : " What are we to do if we stop here ? '
— " Probably eat and sleep," replied Joseph, sucking at his
pipe.

On the 15th (August) we came to the village of Halo, where
there was a ferry. A little higher up the right bank is stopped
by precipitous cliffs to the water's edge, and pedestrians creep
round on pegs of timber driven into the face of the rock. This
acrobatic performance being impossible for quadrupeds, the only
alternative by which the position might be turned was a flank
march of a fortnight into the Salvven valley, and so round to
Tsekou. This decided us. We had reached the point where
the right bank must be abandoned for the left ; on which a road
led in two days to Tsekou, and an opportunity would be given
of making the acquaintance eii route of a chief whose friendship
might prove of subsequent advantage to us. A bargain was
therefore struck with the headman of Halo for the passage of

204

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

ourselves and our belongings for seven and a half taels, and a
day and a half to complete the job. The men were delighted at
the prospect, and were ready to joke now over a scare they
had had from some falling stones that morning, when the bold
Fa loosed off his gun plump into the thicket, and swore he heard
the robbers scampering.

In the evening bonfires blazed in the villasfe in honour of the
Hopatie (fire, wood, fete), the S. Jean of China, when each family
invoked a favourable harvest. The flames lit up the orange-trees,
the palms gleamed steely blue, and the red flowers of the giant
pagoda-trees returned the glow as we kept the feast of Hopatie
by letting off crackers which the people gave us.

It was rather a ticklish sensation to be launched upon the
swirling Mekong in a crank dug-out i6 feet long, paddled by
four men. The waters were on the rise ; another day and the
boatmen would not attempt the crossing. As it was, great care
was needed to prevent the frail craft getting broadside on to
the rush ; and Joseph, who loved not water frolics, uttered
a fervent Deo gratias when the exciting moment was safely past.
The mules were transferred by towing.

From here, Roux and I, with Joseph and three men and pack
mules, set forward in light order. Briffaud continued with the
caravan, to rejoin us at Tsekou. Upon the left bank we fell
in with a young Christian of Kampou, returning from Hsiao-Ouisi.
and engaged him at once as guide and servant. The way W'as
good, wide, and free from scrub, having been prepared for the
passage of the mandarin of Ouisi. After so long clambering over
worse than goat-paths, with the river always within sound on
our right, it seemed strange to be walking at ease on the level,
hearkening to it roaring on our left. We passed through the

20s

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

little Mosso village of Kampou, where the inhabitants utilised
even the dikes between the rice-fields for beans. Soon after, the
■country became wilder ; affluents of the Mekong intersected our
road with barren gorges, the hills were covered with pines. Just
before dark we made out on the brow the white buildings of
a Lama monastery ; and as we could not reach a village before
nightfall, we determined to throw ourselves on the hospitality of
the Order.

From a winding path beneath the sombre pines we all at
once emerged on a wide clearing, in the midst of which was
reared a striking pile. We knocked at several doors before
anyone opened, but on gaining admittance were soon the
centre of a crowd of monks, fat and bronzed, with shaven
heads, and draped in red toga - like mantles. They belonged
to the Order of Red Hats, who had never been hostile to the
missionaries. Some were Mossos, others Thibetans ; they spoke
either language equally, but only used Thibetan writing. Our
hosts conducted us to a clean little tenement, occupied by a
Lama and his two disciples. At the sight of money, eggs and
grain were quickly forthcoming ; they brought us also some small
apples, and a jar of that beverage which the Thibetans call
tchang, and the Chinese tchaotiou, in which the owner of our
lodging pledged us freely.

Hearine loud shouts in the course of the evening" proceedinof
from the space in front of the monastery, we descended, and
beheld the Lamas in the act of decking a post with resinous
torches, surrounded with flowers and leaves. It was the con-
tinuation of the Hopatie. A light having been applied, they
began to sport round it, the young bonzes gamboling and

throwing somersaults with very unclerical vigour. Ne.\t, all, big

206

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

and little, placed themselves one behind the other, accordino- to
size, each holding on to the skirts of the one in front of him.
One was left out, who made dashes at this string as it revolved
rapidly, like the spoke of a wheel. The game consisted in the
single Lama trying to catch the man at the tail, without being
himself caught by the one at the head.

The fire sinking low, the fete concluded with a concert of
ear-piercing whistles, which each produced by putting his fingers
to his mouth. Spying a woman at a little distance, a spectator
of these games, I asked our host if the Lamas married —
"Oh, never!" "Then there are none but Lamas here ."^ " —
"Assuredly." "But I saw a woman." — Embarrassment of my
interlocutor; he reflected a moment — "Probably," said he, "some
female who came to take a walk here. But," added he, "don't
repeat it ; it would never do to say that the Lamas were married."
In reply to interrogations about Lha^a, my Lama said he had
been there four times, and gave us particulars as to the route.

The following morning we were able to examine the temple
near which we had passed the night, and of which, in the dusk,
we had only distinguished the outline. It was a white rectangular
building, with some resemblance to a Chinese pagoda. Outside
appeared, in conspicuous iteration, the invocation cut on stone —

OM MANE PEDMI HOUM.^

Around it were grouped several smaller structures, surmounted
by diminutive towers, with medallions of gods in terra - cotta,
horns, and inscribed bones ; while in front stood posts from

' " Adoration to the Jewel in the Lotus, Amen I " The Shadakshara Mantra, or
" si.\-syllabled charm," with a combined sense of praise and prayer ; regarded by
the Lamas with deep reverence as containing an unfathomable doctrine. — Tk.\ns.

207

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

which waved in the wind long Ihaders, white flags lettered with
Thibetan characters. There could be no doubt we were
approaching the confines of the country of prayer.

The interior of the Laniaserai presented a series of courts,
the walls of which were covered with frescoes, inspired conjointly
by Thibetan and Hindu Buddhism with Chinese beliefs. One
circular painting represented a male and female, naked, before
a tree laden with fruit, round the trunk of which a serpent was
entwined, and surrounded by divers animals. Among the Lamas
the serpent formerly was regarded as the enemy of mankind.
Is it possible that in this picture was to be discerned a survival
of traditions carried into Thibet by the Nestorians ? It is not
for me to say. But the points of resemblance between the
creeds of Roman Catholicism and Thibetan Buddhism, as
exhibited constantly in matters of ornament and ceremony, were
too frequent and too striking to be attributable to chance.
Whence can they have been borrowed, or who were their
originators ? The question is still far from being solved.

Pursuing our investigfations, we came to the central edifice.

The gabled roofs rose in tiers above each other, fining into a

kind of pyramid, crowned by a gilt cupola. The door of the

temple was willingly opened to us, but we were requested not

to ascend to the upper storey, which served as a sacristy, as

they were averse to our inspecting the penetralia of their

worship. In the basement of the pagoda was seated a massive

gilded image of the Thibetan Buddha, cross-legged, with two

saints, also gilt, of natural size, at his side, holding tridents.

Arranged before the Buddha on a table were the seven copper

bowls of water usually seen on Thibetan altars, and, a little in

advance of them, another vessel containing oil and a lighted

208

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

wick. Behind and above the idol a Krout deity was displayed
with spread wings, holding a serpent in his beak and talons.
To right and left of the altar the symbols showed traces of
affinity to Indian tradition — notably a painting, in which was
depicted a female with twelve faces, disposed in four rows of
three, one above another, and with ten arms, of which two
clasped a heart upon the breast. The walls on either hand were
decorated with saints, men to the right, and women to the left,
in blue, green, or yellow, each with an aureole. From the gallery
of the first floor drooped flags and bandrols, emblazoned with
Thibetan scrolls and characters. Elsewhere w^ere bronze candle-
sticks, copper bells, a Thibetan gong, and a fine censer. For
readers who have not studied the question, it would be of little
interest to draw attention to the similarity between the ritual and
■ornaments in use by the Lamaserai of Kampou and those of the
Roman Catholic faith, — • altar, lamp, holy water, candlesticks,
■censers, bells, saints with aureoles, the bird holding the serpent,
etc., are common to both.

Corresponding ornaments and images from Lhaca were to be
found before the private altars, which each head Lama had in his
private lodging. Notwithstanding their religion, these brethren
had no scruples against trafficking in these objects, but the price
was prohibitive. Our visit concluded, nothing remained but to
take leave of the Kamapa (Star, symbol of the sect of Red
Hats), and to resume our journey, well pleased to have had
the opportunity and privilege of admission to their monastery.
This day, the 1 7th (August), was destined to maintain its
interesting character, and to be remembered as one of the
pleasantest in the entire record. For in the afternoon we

■entered upon a little plain, which contained the village of Yetchd
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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Yetche is Mosso, and ruled by a petty king of some celebrity
in the district, and it will not be amiss to give here a few
particulars of his people and their organisation.

The Mossos, belong to that Thibeto- Burmese family which
has thrown out several offshoots in Upper Indo-China. In the
view of Terrien de la Couperie {^Beginnings of Writing in
Central and Eastern Asia) they would be of the same group
as the Jungs or Njungs who appeared on the frontiers of China
six centuries before Christ, coming from the north-east of
Thibet. Chinese historians mention the Mossos seven hundred
and ninety-six years after Christ,, the epoch of their subjection
by the king of Nantchao. Regaining their independence for a
time, and then reattached to the kingdom of Tali, they
recognised the Imperial suzerainty in the fourteenth century, and
were definitely subdued by China in the eighteenth century. They
and the Lolos have probably the same origin. The names of
the two peoples are of Chinese application ; and whilst the Lolos
call themselves Nossous (or Nesous), the Mossos are known as
Nachris. The dialects of both have many points in common.
Upon their reduction by China they were settled round Li-kiang,
within a few days' radius of the town. Towards the north
they extend on the left bank of the Mekong to Yerkalo, and
on the right bank up to within two days' march of Tsekou.
Formerly their sway reached far into Thibet, beyond Kiang-ka.
There is a popular Thibetan poem, the Kdscr, which celebrates
the exploits of a warrior who strove to drive back the
Mossos.

The men are dressed in the Chinese manner, but the
women have a distinctive head-dress. Their hair is gathered
into a knot and brdjjght up in front of the head like a horn,

2 lO

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

with a silver button on the top ; behind this button is fastened
a silver-studded band from which hang down behind the ears
a pair of scalloped ear-rings, also silver, larger than walnuts.
This ornament is only worn by married women, and is presented
to them by their husbands on the birth of a child. Young
girls have only the band without the rings. As great value
is set upon these trinkets, which are handed down from
generation to generation, they are difficult to obtain. In the
rest of their dress they, too, follow the Chinese, with the
exception of the wife of the inokoita (Mosso, king), who has
an elaborate and pretty costume. Over the shoulders is
flung a black sheep-skin fringed with a pound or two of silver
bangles, and little bells and bits of glass at the waist. The
head-dress is identical in shape with that of the common women,
but the ornaments are of gold. A silken jacket with silver
and coral buttons and a green skirt complete the effect.

The Mosso worship is that of spirits. Carved posts, on
which a frequent design is an eye, are set up at the entry of
the villages to avert evil, and to the same intent within the
houses a pillar is planted in the centre with branches, in.scribed
bamboos, and small flags round it. The tradition of the
Deluge is known to them. Wizards they have ; often made in
spite of themselves by common consent if thought to possess
the proper qualifications for scaring evil spirits, to which must
be added the art of healing ; for in the event of failure the elect
of the people is occasionally slain. On the first dav of the
year a feast is held at which pig fattened on peaches is sacrificed,
and nothing but Mosso talked ; if any Thibetans are in the
village they are excluded. The medicine-man only makes his
appearance once on such an occasion, to stamp a white moon

2 1 I

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

on the shoulders of the people ; and withdraws afterwards into
the mountains for twenty-five days, whither the tribe brings
him food. They burn their dead ; but the ceremony never
takes place during harvest. At that season the bodies must
wait, sometimes preserved in salt.

Mosso writing has no real existence as such. The wizards
make and keep manuscript books filled with hieroglyphics ; each
page is divided into little partitions, horizontally from left to
right, in which are inserted rough drawings of men, houses,
animals' heads, and conventional signs for the sky, lightning,
etc. I was enabled to carry awav with me several of these
books. The traveller Gill and the Abbe Desgodins had already
taken specimens to Europe, but without a clue to their meaning.
The magicians explained two of them to me. They were
prayers beginning with the mention of the creation of the world,
and ending by an enumeration of all the ills which menace
man, which he can avoid if he is pious and gives gifts to the
magicians. I have been able by collation to establish the
identity of certain ideas with certain signs, although the
wizards told me they had no alphabet, and that the hieroglyphs
were handed on by oral tradition alone. It was interesting to
light among an isolated people upon one of the first stages in
the evolution of writing. Many of the Chinese characters
were originally simply pictorial hieroglyphs ; and had the Mossos
developed instead of restricted their signs, we might perchance
have seen in their sacred books the birth of letters for them also.

Yetchd, as I have said, is the residence of a viokoua. He
is of noble blood, and belongs to the ancient royal family of
Li-kiang. The power with which he is invested by the Chinese
Government is hereditary. His territory, which extends but a

21 2

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

short distance to the east, runs northward almost as far as
Atentse, southward to within two or three days' march of Yetchd,
and westward beyond the Mekong and the Salwen till it touches
the borders of the Irawadi ; but the DiokoJia only accounts to
China for his administration, that is to say the collection of
imposts, in the districts on the left bank of the Mekong. Indeed,
China, on the principle of divide tit imperes, and lest these
kinglets should become too important, has broken up their spheres
of power on her frontiers by the insertion of Lamas, toussous,
and other petty chieftains. The mokoita is responsible yearly
to China for the tax of the villages that possess rice-fields, forty
or forty -five taels per village, the Chinese families paying him
the iipi or ground rent of their holdings. He levies on his own
subjects every three years the tithe of their live stock, and to
him of right belongs the yearly issue of a licence to hunt called
the chamachu rni (price of the chamaclm or flying squirrel),
which more especially affects the Lissous of the Mekong right
bank. They must furnish besides, yearly and by family, four
tsiens, paid in cereals, wa.x, or money. Occasionally the niokoua
himself fixes the nature of the contribution. He for his part
presents, also yearly and by family, to one-third of his people a
plate of salt, to another third wine, and to the remainder meat.
The Christians are exempt from the corvee and from military
service, but not from the cereals or the four tsiens.

On the first day of the year the niokoua receives a visit from
his Lissou subjects, who bring with them presents, not of duty
but of respect ; it would not be fitting to come empty-handed.
One offers some roots, another edible fungi, a third a pheasant
killed en roide. They then perform a dance before him — a round
one, in which sometimes as many as a hundred men take

21 ;

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

part, and of which the movement gets faster and faster until it
has happened that those who fell have been trampled to death
beneath the feet of the others. On the celebration of these
fetes each visitor receives from the king wine and meat, more
than a dozen oxen being slaughtered for one repast. The
Lissous are not always tractable ; it is narrated that on a recent
occasion, dissatisfied with their meal and excited by drink,
they broke out into a riot, and would have killed the Isctipa
(Lissou title for the mokoua, "great chief"); but the latter, not-
withstanding his youth, boldly bared his breast and dared them
to strike. This display of courage appealed to their own, and
the young king acquired a great popularity from that momcMit.

The Mossos of Yetche are regarded as the slaves of their
chief; three families can always be called out for service or for
corvee. Each of his subjects must contribute to the building of
his house ; and his field labourers receive their keep, but no
pay. The people on the left bank of the river have a right of
appeal against the viokoiia to the Chinese court at Ouisi. But
it is never put into use : whatever happens, his jurisdiction is
invariably found more just and less tyrannical than the Chinese
tribunals.

The father of the reigning Mosso mokoua was a trusted

adherent to Yangynko, conqueror of the Mussulmans of Tali,

and having been deputed to reduce the Lamaserai of Honpou

(near Atentsd) was there assassinated. Although his death was

avenged by Chinese forces, and a fine of three thousand taels plus

the head of the murderer exacted, this did not satisfy his son and

successor, who sent two thousand Lissou warriors (after making

them drink vengeance in bull's blood, their warlike custom), and

devastated the villages belonging to the Lamas up to the outskirts

214

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

of Tsekou, but respected the lives of the Christians and mission-
aries. Through the instrumentaHty of the latter the implements
and oxen were saved for the villagers, and Father Dubernard
redeemed the prisoners from the Lissous with a ransom of salt,
gaining thereby such goodwill from the natives of the Mekong
that they would hardly consent to his return to his own place
at Tsekou. The young juokoua also bound himself by ties of
amity with the Fathers, and on the occasion of the latter being
expelled from their stations at Tsekou and on the Mekong,
before recounted, received them under his protection, saying,
"We were friends in prosperity, let us continue so in adversity."

This recitation of preceding local events will explain the
interest we had in visiting the niokoua of Yetche and in eainine
his friendship, the value of which we were to hnd in our further
travels.

When with a present of a revolver and a tinder-box, and
heralded by Joseph, we presented ourselves at his house, we
found a rambling edifice with a wide central court. The walls
exhibited a variety of patterns and Mosso hieroglyphs, all, as
well as the mouldings, the design of the royal owner himself,
whose more ordinary accomplishments and occupations embraced
those of a goldsmith, merchant, and cider maker on a large
scale.

At our entrance he came forward himself to greet us. He
was a young man of regular features and intelligent expression ;
being in mourning he wore a white turban, and a white cord tied
his queue. Our interview was short, as we could not accept
his hospitality for the night, and he appeared nervous and unable
to give us much geographical information. I^le thanked me for
my gifts, and regaled us with tea, cakes, and an excellent sweet-

215

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

meat made of plums, and on our leaving presented me with a
book of Mosso prayer. By his coLirtesy also we were provisioned
for our journey with pork and edible fungi.

Bidding farewell then to Vetche, we proceeded to Dekou,
another Mosso villaafe, where in the evening we witnessed the
ceremony with which the medicine-men ward off evil spirits
and sickness from the dwellings. Each wizard wore a circular
head-dress with spreading fan-like rim, from the back of which
hung ribands ; in one hand he held a cymbal with bells on the
concave side, and in the other, one of those Thibetan double
tambourines which are shaken from side to side. Behind them
marched one of their number beating a tom-tom with a curved
stick. The procession entered each house in turn ; the family
altar was decked, and cinders were placed on the tripod. When
the leader had tasted a proffered cup of wine, he held it alolt
while pronouncing a parenthetical litany, in each pause of which
children, covered with flour and holding torches, chanted a word
in chorus meaning "present." I imagine these to have repre-
sented the good and evil spirits invoked. The incantation over,
the instruments were given a final shake, a circuit of the room
was made, and cxcmit. At the chief's they have to per-
form a dance in addition, which they execute with a bowing
motion, stooping with outstretched hand as if to pick some-
thing up, in a manner precisely similar to what I have
seen in Thibet. The function ended round an obo outside
the village, where torches were fixed to a post, and children
flung into the flames a powder which produced a white flash.
The whole observance was a continuation of the Hopatie,
which though in China of only one day's duration is here pro-
longed over several.

216

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

The road traversed on the i8th (August) was good but
monotonous, and nightfall found me the guest of a Thibetan family
in a lonely little hut. The " Doctor " had taken a short cut with
the Christian guide, and so overshot our halt ; but, as the country
was no lonser daneerous, we felt no uneasiness on his behalf. As
I smoked my pipe in the moonlight, I realised what a tie is formed
by living the same life and enduring the same hardships : I had
grown quite fond of Joseph and Sao, separated though we w^ere by
a world of ideas ; and even with the other men who had covered
so many miles with us travel supplied a bond which racial con-
trasts could not wholly dissolve.

19th (August). — A long day, which seemed to me longer from
the lassitude induced by a touch of fever. A line came back trom
Rou.x in the morning reporting all well, and that he would push on.
In the afternoon the valley contracted : we were now opposite the
spot where the precipice had barred our farther advance on the
right bank. Here on the left things were not much better. The
river had hollowed out the undercliff, and for some distance the
way was a mere wooden gallery clinging to the overhanging bluff.
The face of the rock above us was cut with large Thibetan inscrip-
tions, the burden of which was always the same prayer found for
twelve hundred miles from west to east throughout the country of
the Suppliants.

We approached Tsekou, and were already within sight of the

white houses of the mission, whence a man came to escort us to

the bridge of Tsedjrong, as that of the missionaries had been cut ;

and here Father Soulie was waiting to welcome us. The two

cables composing the bridge were fairly taut, and the leather slings

having been adjusted round myself and another, away we went

with a swoop. As I looked down at the water all fear of giddiness-

217

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

vanished. The other side was reached with the impetus of the
descent, and the shock broken by a band held by two men. The
mules were soon disposed of in the same manner. At every cross-
ing the running
line is greased,
Ijut even with
this precaution
the cords wear
out quickly.
When a new
connection has
to be estab-
lished, it is done
by a light line
attached to an
arrow, the
stream being
d an ge rousl y
strong for boats.
On the right
bank we were
met by Father
Dubernard, one
of the veterans
of the Thibet
Mission. In
twenty - eight

years this is the second occasion on which he has seen European
travellers : the first was the Englishman Cooper. The reader

may imagine what mutual pleasure our meeting therefore gave.

218

Father Soulie.

FROM TALI TO TSEKOU

A ten minutes' mule ride and we were in Tsekou. We had
accomolished the exploration of the Chinese Mekong ; we had
verified the routes of Cooper, Gill, and the missionaries of Thibet,
as well as those of Garnier and the Pavie Mission. After the grand
works of Rochill and of Dutreuil de Rhins, there only remains an
expedition into the Degue to complete the knowledge of the whole
course of the great Indo-Chinese artery, the F"rench river. With
Tsekou we had attained the northern apex of our enterprise ;
henceforward we should be homeward bound. But first to rest, to
talk with our fellow-countrymen, and to reorganise our forces while
stopping a space in the gateway of Thibet.

i.^"

/luh-

Passing a Mule over the Mekong al Tsedjrong.
219

Mission Buildings, Tsel<ou.

CHAPTER VI

SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

Labours of the Missionaries — Honest Socialism — Persecution of Christians — Population
of Tsekou — Cattle - rearing — Industries — Hunting — Fauna — Flora — Thibetans — Their
Religious ISeliefs — Lamaserais — Customs — Superstitions — Fables — Songs — Return of
Roux from Atentse.

A TWO-STOREYED house, with a roof of Chinese tiles, a terrace, and

a chapel 65 feet hiyh with triple gables ornamented with Chinese

designs and lattice wood-work, formed the exterior of the mission.

The Fathers were justly proud of their chapel ; it was indeed

wonderful to find such an edifice here. It had taken three years

to build, with the services of Minchia journeymen from Kien-tchouan

on the borders of the Blue River, and with local materials.

We had for outlook in rear of the chapel the stony ridge ill-

220

SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

covered with brushwood that linked the right bank of the torrent
of Tsekou to the Mekong. Above and beyond, the mountains,
with their uniform covering of rigid pines, rose to the heights on
the left of the river. Immediately behind Tsekou, hills were piled

sides

es.

md

we

upon hills until the horizon was shut in on

seemed to be enclosed within

a little world apart. The eye

sought its only outlet to the

north, where the Mekong had

forced for itself a narrow

passage at the base of a high

mountain which occasionally

emerged from its usual canopy

of clouds, and displayed a

rocky summit patched with

snow. It bore the name oi the

village beneath its shoulder,

Loukou.

The concession of the
Fathers was of considerable
extent, and reached the top
of the chain that separated
the Mekong from the Salvven
basin, embracing in its area
numerous villages echeloned at various heiehts, from which on
Sunday a congregation of nearly three hundred Christians
descended to mass. Father Dubernard has collected the debris
of several mission stations, and has become the rallying- point
for those believers whom persecution has driven to the refuge

As I

221

Father Dubernard.

of this agricultural community which he has founded

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

marked his administration of his subjects, his help for the
unfortunate, his care of the sick, and saw him supervising the
harvest, laying by food for the improvident, and giving instruction
to the young, he seemed to me to resemble some bene-
ficent over-lord of the Middle Ages ; or rather, in the finest
sense of the word, from which no reader need shrink, to be a
true socialist. For is not he the perfect socialist who lives the
life of his people, in their prosperity rich, and in their poverty
poor, who shares their joys as well as their sorrows, and enters
into all their fears ? Here we had before us a picture of ancient
Christian communism ; and if, during the period of our sojourn
in Tsekou, we were strongly impressed by the cordial co-operation
between the pastor and his flock, if we marvelled at the mutual
trust and amity that each reposed in the other, this state could
only be attributable to the existence of a common bond, the
sustaining power of one thought — the Christian faith. Charity has
smoothed the roughnesses, and " the cradle song of human misery "
has lulled its children into forgetfulness by showing to every-
one the ideal of an earthly life. Father Dubernard was venerated
throughout the country-side, and looked up to, at once for his
wisdom and his care, as the benefactor of the land. His reputation
for healing power was widespread. When smallpo.x ravaged the
district, he vaccinated more than nine thousand persons ; and he
told me with what success he had combated the prevalence of
goitre by treating those afflicted with iodide of potassium. And
yet, notwithstanding all the good that has been wrought by the
mission, there is perhaps none that has suffered fiercer per-
secution.

It is no part of my purpose to enter here into the heroic
struggles of the Thibet missionaries, so ably set forth by Father

2 22

SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

Desgodins in his book. Suffice it to say that the demands of
our minister at Pekin for justice to be done to the Fathers have
been of as little effect as the promises extorted from the Tsung-
li-Yamen. The edicts of Pekin are disregarded on the banks of
the Mekong. The authorities at Ouisi refused to recognise the
re-issue by China in 1894 of the article in the Treaty of Tien-tsin-
that sanctioned the acquisition by the missionaries of houses and
land in any part of China by private negotiation without the
interference of the local magnates. The mission at Atentse was
not allowed to be rebuilt. In that same town lay some chests,
containinof religious ornaments and effects, stolen ei^ht years before
from the Fathers. There had originally been thirty bo.xes, but the
previous mandarin of Ouisi had declared there were no more than-
seventeen. The present number admitted was nineteen, which
caused the Father drily to ask if they had bred in captivity.
Always and everywhere the same Chinese deceit.

In the neighbourhood of Tsekou was the pagan village of
Tsedjrong. The besse, or chief man, of this place was an im-
placable foe to the mission. It was he who, in 18S7, had menaced
the Fathers with vengeance if they did not clear out in two days.
He it was who had cut their rope bridge, and, while outwardly
obsequious in their presence, had never ceased to annoy them by
every means in his power. To all of which ill-will they had
replied by advancing him grain wherewith to pay his tribute, and
so avoid being clapped into gaol at Ouisi.

While we were at Tsekou a Christian came down one morning
from the mountains, and reported that three Lamas of the
Lamaserai of Honpou (Gueloupas) had come by night, under
pretext of recovering a debt, and had killed his pigs, beaten his
wife, and carried off his daughter. It is a dangerous thing to-

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

profess the religion of France at the portals of Thibet. Yet,
•despite tile obstacles they encounter, their incessant anxieties,
and the persecution of which they are the object, the Fathers,
posted like sentinels along the line of the Mekong, await, with

A Tsekou Christian.

unwearying patience, constancy, and alertness, the da)- when they
shall be admitted into Thibet to carry the banner of Christian
religion forward to victory. We could not repress our admira-
tion while they spoke of Thibet as of a promised land with an

224

SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

ardent zeal as unquenched at fifty, after twenty - eight years of
tribulation, as at thirty. The traveller, whoever he may be, must
needs honour these soldiers of the faith, whose life is made up
of self-devotion and perseverance.

Our stay lasted for three weeks. I stood in need of rest,
being a prey to fever and neuralgia ; and the interval gave my
comrade an opportunity of making an expedition to Atentse, and
of comparing his observations with those that Gill had made in
the same districts. Meanwhile I had leisure to enjoy many long
talks with the missionaries about the country they dwelt in,
though, as I have no present intention of publishing an ex-
haustive study of these regions, the reader will not be surprised
if 1 omit any discussion of more or less familiar topics, and only
throw tos:ether those fragments of information which in the
course of casual conversation seemed to me of rather special
interest.

The population of Tsekou is composed of Mossos, Lissous,.
Loutses, Thibetans, Chinese, and hybrids. Tradition ascribes to
the Lissous a southern origin, as their forefathers are reputed
to have possessed elephants. A certain Chinese general having
once upon a time subjugated them after revolt, reported to head-
quarters their complete extermination ; after which, of course,
their existence could not be officially admitted by the Govern-
ment. But they continue to engage in partial rebellions, and look
upon themselves as insurgents by nature. Those that are most
active in such vocation are the Kimer Lissous, or Tchioui Lissous
(Tchioui being Thibetan).

Suicide is of common occurrence with them : drownina:, hane-
ing, or poison is the ordinary sequel to a family quarrel. Their
most usual method is an arrow poison which, when absorbed,

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

causes a species of tetanus, with foaming at the mouth and speedy
results. They have a prophecy that a chief shall come amongst
them from the west, who will have a long beard. In the early
days a missionary seemed to fulfil their expectation, and the first
Fathers were in consequence called Peula (gods).

The occupations of the Christians are mainly agricultural,
cattle breeding, small industries, and hunting. They make butter
and cheese, finding the best milk-producer for dairy purposes to
be the dzomo, a cross between a yak cow and an ordinary bull.
One such will give nearly sixty lbs. of butter a year. The
young of the dzomo rarely lives, or, if it does, is generally puny.
To wean a calf the Thibetans have a method of fastening a board
across the nostrils, which, while allowing it to crop the grass,
prevents it from taking the udder. The calf is removed from its
mother at a month old, and is nourished for a while by the farm
wife, who masticates a sort of paste, which she then introduces
into its mouth in a manner more forcible than elegant.

They also manufacture paper from the bark of a tree. After
a double soaking, first in plain and then in lime water, the bark
is reduced with a pestle to a pulp, which is again damped before
being placed in a tank with a framework bottom, in which the
substance settles, and when dry is turned out as paper.

Another industry which flourishes in Tsekou is the carving
of drinking bowls out of the knots of certain trees, which, accord-
ing to their shape or the manner in which they are grained, are
highly valued as possessing a charm against a poisoned draught.
Some of these dzops, or knots, are worth fifty or sixty taels.

One of the food resources of the mountain is wild honey,

found in large quantities in crannies of the cliffs sheltered from

the rain. To gather it the Lissous lower themselves by ropes,

226

SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

to which they give a slight oscillating movement, and each time
their swing brings them within reach they knock some of the
honeycomb into a basket. They take no particular precautions
against the bees ; but when they discover a swarm hibernating in
the holes of the rock they sweep it bodily into a cloth, which is
then wrung to express the honey from the bodies. Whole swarms
are thus destroyed for the sake of a single cup of nectar. The
hillmen are very skilful in unearthing the hives ; they even pre-
tend that they can track the bees by their almost imperceptible
droppings upon the stones. These rock-bees are nearly always
escorted by a little bird, to which the natives have given the name
of the " bee king."

But hunting must be classed as the chief pursuit of both
Lissous and Loutses. Their weapons of the chase are poisoned
arrows, the tincture for which is extracted from a root, and is
said to be very rapid in its effects. Thus armed, the natives
attack the most dangerous animals, such as bears and panthers,
using also swift dogs trained for the work. Before setting out
great care is taken not to divulge the direction of the expedition,
and the trail is followed in perfect silence. Arrived at the cover,
an augury is consulted by means of lots, and, if necessary, delay
is made till this shall be favourable. The traces of the game
having been examined, posts are assigned and signals interchanged
by horn blasts. Well versed in hill work, these men will scramble
up the most rugged sides wherever there is hold for a toe, or
scale the face of the rock with the aid of pegs of wood driven
into the fissures. In such places they have to carry their dogs
into the bargain. In this manner they will pursue the quarry for
five or six days at a time, and rarely lose an animal they have
once struck.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

There is another form of sport after vultures. The season
for this is the winter, during the snows, when the birds are rendered
tame by hunger. Baits are put out, and the first comers that
pitch attract others. The men are in hiding, and, as soon as a
sufficient number is on the ground, fling a net over the flock,

often bagging as many
as ten or fifteen at a
single cast. The birds
are quickly despatched
with sticks. Their fat
is highly esteemed for
its healing properties
for wounds, and vulture
feathers command a
good price from the
military mandarins.

The Lissous are
cunning snarers, and
use their art in captur-
ing the monkeys, which
do much damage to the
crops, especially the
maize. A hollow tree
trunk or bamboo is
placed near the grain patch with a potato or Iruit in it ; the
marauder inserts his hand, but cannot withdraw it when closed
upon the dainty, which, rather than abandon, he holds on to,
and is caught. So they say ; but, like many mighty hunters all
the world over, the natives do not let an exploit lose in the

telling, and on the frontiers of Thibet a good story is not spoilt

228

/ /

^ /
/

■ /

L

Another Tsekuu Christian.

SOJOURN. AT TSEKOU

for want of imagination. Here is a contribution from Tsekou.
A certain trapper having readied a ledge of rock found himself
in presence of a she - bear and her cubs. At sight of the
intruder, Bruin snatched her young ones to her breast. The
hunter picked up a big stone and brandished it ; whereupon his
antagonist put down her children and did likewise. The man then
uttered his Thibetan war-cry, "hi! hi!" which so terrified the
bear that she dropped her stone upon the cubs and killed them.

Wild beasts are plentiful in the surrounding country. Among
them mention was made of a large boar, called a patsa, whose
tusks are a foot long, and whose flesh is scented with musk.
Herds of budorcas (a kind of wild ox) have their habitat near
the snowline, and when they come down to drink follow their
leader in such exact file that the spoor appears to be that of a
single animal. Then we were told of a black fo.x ; and of a
civet called the tululu ; while the nemo j'r her dus, or "rock ass," is
not infrequent. The flying squirrel too, with its beautiful coat,
is the object of a lively trade ; and the Ailurus fulgens, known
here as the three-coloured fox, is met with. In addition there are
porcupines, and the rhyzomi or bamboo-rat, which latter, however,
is only found on the left bank of the Mekong.

The flora also exhibits many varieties. The natives have a
dressing for wounds made of a composition of henbane, tobacco,
and elder leaves boiled and put in oil. The fumes of henbane
seeds laid on red-hot embers are inhaled as a remedy for tooth-
ache. But if they avail themselves of plants that cure, they are
no less apt in the uses of those that kill. Poisoner is an
attractive name on which to levy blackmail, and everyone so
charged must forthwith purge his accusation with a bribe. They

pretend, moreover, that a deadly charm resides in a certain snake,

229

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

which empowers it to change its shape and drop its venom in
the cup. Father Dubernard instanced several cases where
persons, chiefly women, had made full confession of the art
with the persuasion of a little burning wax dropped on their
shoulders. Under the circumstances one is not surprised.

Similarly, the judgment of heaven is commonly invoked in
the following way : — Two pebbles, one black and the other white,
are dropped into a bowl of boiling oil. If the accused can pick
out the white one, he is innocent ; but should he either shrink
from the ordeal or draw the black, his guilt is established.

In all our conversations with the Fathers, Thibet and the
Thibetans naturally occupied a foremost place. More than any
other people in the world are these latter dominated by religious
sentiment. From the piles of prayer-inscribed stones that meet
the eye at every turn of the road ; from their constant devotions
in halt or on march, when the very winds and waters are made
their intercessors, and no river can be forded without the sign
of the cross upon the forehead ; from their innate cult of the
unseen and the marvellous, every event and condition is to
them an occasion for superstition ; while there exists not a
peril which may not be averted by some practice, to their
apprehension infallible, which has for its origin a belief in the
supernatural.

By their own popularly received legend they are the off-
spring of a she-devil and an ape.

They maintain that sorcerers alight from the empyrean (as

the Richis descend from the Himalayas at the birth of Buddha),

and tell a tale of an individual who to prove his power of

night threw himself from a lofty rock. That this guileless person

was dashed to pieces is regarded as a mere mischance. Within

2.^0

SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

the Lamaserais astounding deeds are credited to their votaries.
They open their stomachs and readjust their intestines without
a scar remaining ; they walk barefoot upon the sword's edge, and
feel no inconvenience; the living Buddha of Tchamoutong ^ heaps
up water drops with his hand as one might ice morsels. And
they of Tsekou have beheld these things.

One remembers that Father Hue brought back similar stories,
and was taxed with credulity. And yet from fear of seeming
untrustworthy he only related a tithe of what he saw. To corrob-
orate either his experiences or the tales affirmed to me personally
would require a protracted sojourn in the midst of the Lamas
themselves, leadino- their life and sharincr their ceremonies. It
is not beyond the bounds of possibility that they can by the aid of
forces little known to us, but yet consistent with nature, produce
manifestations which analogy with phenomena observed in
divers other times and places might render worthy of considera-
tion ; such, for instance, as those of levitation. Of course it is
easy to dismiss with a shrug of the shoulders the remarks of
one or even several travellers ; but it might be more reasonable
to suppose that others before ourselves have been able to recog-
nise a power similar to that outlined by recent investigations,
and have turned it to the advantage of their religious prestige.
Be this as it may, the Lamas, whether sincere or the reverse,
have not been above using deception. The liantay ^ of Lha^a
revealed to the Fathers a ceremonial trick of theirs. He told

' Four days from Tsekou, on the banks of the Salwen, stands the Lamaserai of
the Tchamoutong, the Lamas of which take their grades from the parent house of
D^gue. It is the ancient foundation of a celebrated Mosso queen, Mutsien - tsong
(daughter of the chief of a thousand men), or, as she was called in her own language,
Azen diamo.

-' Liantay : a special paymaster and delegate of the Chinese Government at Lhaqa.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

them with true Chinese scepticism that at the installation of the
Tale Lama/ before the public seance at which the newly elect
has to pick out from a variety of objects exposed upon a board
those that belonged to him in a previous state of existence,
there is a private rehearsal to coach him in his part.

As is well known, the sects of the Lamas are numerous.
The most ancient, as well as the most moral, is that of the
Peun-Bo (Red Hats) ; within the sphere of whose influence every
head of a family is Peun-Bo. Their books are very fine, and
their [)rincipal divinity is the Nam-la-kerbo (white god of the
sky). When the Lamas shave their heads they carefully preserve
the hair and hide it in a hole in the wall ; if they were to lose
it a great evil would overtake them. Some have wigs, which
they put on as a disguise when they wish to gad about in the
evening.

The Thibetan invocation o^t mane pedmi houm ! is rendered
in Chinese by o mv to fou ! Father Dubernard's explanation of
the origin of the latter expression was the following : — The god
Fou, called also Che-kia Fou, was born in India in the year kia-yn,
on the first dav of the fourth moon. His father, Tsin-fou, was the
ruler of a small kino-dom. Fou issued from the ri^ht side of his
mother Moy4- and at his birth, pointing one hand on high and the
other to the ground, he proclaimed : " Of all things that are in
heaven and in earth, I, and I alone, am worthy of veneration!"
Married to a woman named Yeche, he had a son, Loheoulo. As
he was for ever occupied in the chase, he paid no regard to his
family. At the death of his father he became king, dissipated his

* The Tale Lama is a Chinese term foi- what is called in Thibetan chang^uen diao
ri boche.
- .Maya.

SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

fortune, and retired to a mountain called Suechan, a place of
pilgrimage for the Thibetans, where he lived on roots, and in-
structed a few disciples in metempsychosis till the time of his death
at thirt)-, or, as others say, sixty years of age. He remained
unknown to the Chinese until the Han or Tsin dynasty, when,
moved by a dream, Minty sent two envoys O and My to seek him.
But he was dead ; and the emissaries only brought back his image.
It was from the result of this mission that arose the invocation,
o Mv TO Fou (o MY living Buddha) ! But his worship was con-
fined to a few. Hieutsang sent a fresh embassage to India, which
returned with a bone of Fou, whose name in infancy was Mougny
(Cakya Mouni). The emperor thereafter decreed that all his
prisoners should worship Fou. Most of them escaped. From that
time the followers of Fou were condemned to shave their heads and
to ring a bell, as a means of identification. Such, according to
oral and written tradition, is the origin of the Chinese bonzes.

Here are some of the Thibetan customs of this region : —

A visitor is not allowed to cross the threshold till a pipe has
been smoked outside, and the new-comer is ascertained to be free
from disease.

Blood brotherhood in Thibet is cemented by blending and then
drinking the blood of the contracting parties ; but after this mutual
pledge all things are not held in common as in Madagascar.

When any beasts are lost a wand is with much ceremony held
upright on the ground : its fall indicates the direction to be taken
in the search.

In neighbourhoods where there are many panthers, the
Thibetans burn scented sticks in a chafing-dish under their animals:
this renders them safe from all attack.

In a case of an unpaid debt where the creditor has no proofs,

235

FROiM TONKIN TO INDIA

he should seek to place his hands upon a child of the debtor.
By this process a terrible malediction is conferred on the
defaulter.

Should a rich man fall sick and fail of a cure, he procures a con-
senting pauper, dresses him in his own finery, gives him his arms,

and turns him
adrift, in the hope
that the evil spirit,
hoodwinked by
the disguise, will
transfer his atten-
tions, and torment
h i m no more.
But if no willing
scapegoat can be
found even for such
a tempting bribe, a
straw manikin ma)'
be decked in a
similar fashion, and
left outside. The
clothes generally
disappear, if not
the disease.

Rich folk, when

they have attained a certain age, hold their own funeral obsequies
in advance with feasting and prayers for a good end.

When the Thibetans have to defer the burial of their dead for
any length of time, they place the corpse in a doubled-up attitude,

with the head between the knees and the back broken. It is

236

A Tliibetan of Tsekou.

SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

curious that most of the mummies found in Central America have
been in this posture.

The Thibetans are great hands at a story, and are much
addicted to fables, of which the two subjoined may be taken as
specimens.

The Fox and the PartridCtE.

A fox having played a trick on a partridge, the latter determined to
have her revenge. But first she had to lull him into security- " To-day,"
said she, "we are going to laugh fit to split our sides." "(iood," replied
the fox. Together they went into a field where there were two men hoeing.
The partridge lit on the shoulders of one of them, and when the other
aimed a blow at her she flew off, and his companion received the stroke
instead.

Next day she resumed: "We shall be frightened to death presently;"
and, hiding renard in a thicket, waited till a party of bonzes, who were
conducting some rites over a sick man at a little distance, concluded the
ceremony with cries and gunshots, which caused the fox the utmost alarm.

The third morning she remarked : " To-day we'll play at who can
stretch their legs the farthest." So saying she led him by a path into the
mountains where there was a trap hidden, and began to fly to and fro
over the spot. "What are you doing?" quoth he. "Just amusing myself
with a little game," said she ; " won't you come and join me ? " The fo.x,
who by this time had perfect confidence in her, followed, and was caught
by the leg in the gin, where his frantic struggles soon ended his life.

In this we see the Thibetan character for deliberate vengeance
well portrayed.

The Bear, the Fox, and the Hare.

A bear, a fox, and a hare were one day going along together when they
met a man carrying a bundle. " Let's play him a trick," said the mis-
chievous hare. " I'll sham lame, and when he pursues me you must run
off with the bundle." No sooner said than done : the hare limped right
between the man's legs, who dropped the bundle and gave chase, but
in vain. Shortly after, the hare rejoined his companions in safety, and thev
proceeded to share the spoil. " You," said he to the fox, " are a hunter :
this pair of boots will suit you admirably." And to the bear : '' Why, here
are a tambourine and a horn : just the things for your dear little ones when
they cry ! " The tsampa (millet flour) and meat he kept for himself.

Next da)', when the fox put on the boots, he tumbled about in the

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

clumsiest fashion. The bear went to her den, and, when her culis cried
for food, beat the tambourine, till they shuffled in terror to the back of
the cave, and then gave them a blast on the horn, which killed them
outright.

The hare meanwhile struck for home with the food in high good-
humour.

The Thibetans are fond of recitative singing, accompanied by
chorus and sometimes by dance. These are rough renderings of
some of their performances : —

\st I'Dice. — Let song the dance prelude.

Chorus (Jit//). — Let song the dance prelude.

1st Voice. —

Upon the mountain's yellow brow
The herds of musk-deer meet.

C/ionis (fu/l). — id. repeat.

Semi-c/iorus A. —

Thibetan, Tartar, Chinese, e'er

Can they be one, can they be one ?
Nay ; from the first they stand alone
They stand alone.
Semi-c/iorus B. (/'is) —

If peace should reign, they may combine.
I". ,, jj »)

Semi-c/iorus A. —

The sun, the moon, the stars, at once

May they give light, may they give light?
Nay ; till the day be turned to night.

Be turned to night.
Semi-i/iorus B. (/'is) —

Now and again, twin stars will shine.

^"' n )) n

Scmi-:/ionis A. —

The stag, the wild goat, and the sheep,
Will they consort, will they consort ?
Nay ; till the hills with valleys sport,

With valleys sport.
Semi-c/iorus B. (bis) —

To pastured plain, yet all incline.
id. „ „ „

238

SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

Another —

isf Voice. — Let song the dance prelude.

Chorus {full). — id.

Semi-chorus ^.— By Guidam, in the Orient, are three meres ; of gold, of
silver, and of turquoise. Beside the sea of gold burns a golden
tree, from out whose branches flies a yellow bird, piping to the tree,
" Rest here in peace ; I go."

Semi-chorus B. repeats id.

Semi-chorus --i.— By Guidam, in the Orient, are three meres : of gold, of
silver, and of turquoise. Beside the sea of silver glistens a silver
tree, from out whose branches flies a white bird, piping to the tree,
" Rest here in peace ; I go."

Semi-chorus B. repeats id.

Semi-chorus .-i.— By Guidam, in the Orient, are three meres : of gold, of
silver, and of turquoise. Beside the sea of turquoise springs a
turquoise tree, from out whose branches flies a blue bird, piping to
the tree, " Rest here in peace ; I go."

Another —

I.V/ Voice. — Let song the dance prelude.

Chorus (Ju/P). — id. repeat.

(Guests from afar greet the hosts within the house.)
Semi-chorus A. (guests zi'ithout).—" We are guests from a far country :

say, is it well with the chief?"
Semi-chorus B. (hosts «■/////>/).—" The chief is well."
Semi-chorus j5.— "Guests from a far country; say, is the Lama in peace,

in health ? "
Semi-chorus A. — "The Lama is in peace and health."
Semi-chorus i>'.— Guests from a far country ; say, are father and uncle in

peace, in health ? "
.Semi-chorus .-:/.—" Father and uncle are in peace and health."
Semi-chorus ^.—"Guests from a far country; say, are mother and aunt

in peace, in health ? "
Semi-chorus yi.— "Mother and aunt arc in peace and health."

Another —

" Elder brother, elder brother, that gay kerchief of crimson silk around
thy head, is it thine or is it borrowed? If thy very own, so may

239

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

it be ever thine. How ! borrowed ? — then canst thou at best but
enjoy it three days."

" Elder brother, elder brother, that rich gaou ^ which adorns thy breast,
is it thine or is it borrowed ? If thy very own, so may it be ever
thine. Howl borrowed? — then canst thou at best but enjoy it
three days."

" Elder brother, elder brother, those garters of many colours that gird
thy knee, are they thine or are they borrowed ? If thy very own, so
may they be ever thine. How ! borrowed ? — then canst thou at best
but enjoy them three days."

Another —

Semi-chorus A. — " My friends, my country is the fairest upon earth "

Semi-chorus B. — " Fair country, quotha ! There is not where to build a
house. To build he must leave his fine country."

Semi-chorus A. — " My friends, my country is the fairest upon earth. In
a strange land there is nor peace nor joy. I hie me back to my
own country."

Semi-chorus B. — " Fair country, quotha ! There is not where to rear a
palace. To rear palaces he must leave his fine country."

Semi-chorus A. — " My friends, my country is the fairest upon earth. In
a strange land there is nor peace nor joy. I hie me back to my
own country."

Semi-chorus B. — " Fair country, quotha ! There is not where to found a
forum. To found a forum he must leave his fine country."

Semi-chorus A. (Jin.). — " Friends, my country is the fairest upon earth.
In a strange land there is nor peace nor joy. I hie me back to
my own country."

Another-

Semi-chorus A. —

The poplar of itself has taken root.
Of itself it has risen like the hills ;

Its branches skyward shoot :
The earth has fertile grown,
The land a gem.

Semi-chorus B. repeats id.

' A reliquaiy.
240

sojoiRx AT tsp:kou

Scmi-c/ion/s A. —

The bamboo of itself has taken root,
At Tsarong, of itself, like the hills ;

Its branches skyward shoot :
The earth has fertile grown,

The land a gem.

Seiiii-ciwrus />'. repeats id.

Semi-chorus A. —

The grape-\ine of itself has taken root,
111 the land of the Mosso, like the hills ;

Its branches bend with fruit :

In the jewel of all gems.
The Mosso land.

Seini-ciiorus B. repeats id.

Another —

In a rich valley a golden kieutigne rose ;
Of colours five the cone.
There came a rain

For years, one, two, and three ; —
.And the colours of its dome were gone.

In a rich valley a silver kieutigne rose ;

( )f colours five the cone.
There came a rain

For years, one, two, and three : —
.\nd the colours of its dome were gone.

In a rich \alley a marble kieutigne rose:

Of colours five the cone.
There came a rain

For years, one, two, and three : —
And the colours of its dome were gone.

The kieutione is a huildin"- in the nature of a dobano- or
religious monument, often passed upon the roads of Thibet, but
more lofty and of better construction. The moral of the song is
the old one, tcnipiis edax rcruni.

One could sro on collecting these dance chants to almost anv
length. They are of every kind, patriotic as well as erotic. .Most
Q 241

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

of them are improvised on tlie spur of the moment, the two
semi-choruses engaging- in an extempore encounter of wits, hke
a more or less literary joust, where the art lies in catching a fleeting
cadence or a rhyme.

On the 30th (August) Roux returned from Atentse : the loss
of a mule, the drowning of poor little dog " Pinaud," who seeing
his master crossing by a rope bridge tried to follow him by
swimming the river, and a night alarm with a panther in a
barn, formed the only incidents of his excursion. He had sighted
the three snow peaks of Dokerla (stone ladder), with its fine
glaciers on the right bank of the Mekong, and estimated their
height to be about 17,875 feet. Dokerla is a sacred mountain
of Thibet, to which a pilgrimage is made in the year of the
sheep, i.e. every twelfth year, and, as it happened to tall at this
time, the " Doctor " had met many folk from Tsarong. The
women he described as wearing over their tchaupas a sleeveless
frock-tunic of poulou stuff, with horizontal stripes in brown, blue,
and white. In their hair was a silver disc tor ornament.

Atents(^ is a little town of three hundred families, perched
at an altitude of 10,725 feet, and, being one of the gates between
China and Thibet, holds a position of some commercial importance.
A portion of its inhabitants settled there from Chan-si more than
five hundred years ago.

Trade consists in : —

Musk : eight or ten mule loads per annum, sold at seven times
its weiorht in silver.

Ouaulien : a root used as a tincture and a drug, brought from
Dzayul, and sold at forty taels the load.

Gold : in small quantities, sold at eighteen times its weight in

silver.

242

SOJOURN AT TSEKOU

Raw wool.

Madder : from Tsarong.

Ka : a red dye obtained from an insect of Assam, the residue of

which is used in making sealing wax.
Copper : from Yunnan. At Atentse there is an accredited

agent from Lhaca, styled Deba, for the purchase of wrought

copper for the large Lamaserais. For its transport he can
command a corvee of the people.

Tea : intended for Lhaca, being a monopoly of Tatsien-lou, only

a little passes through Atentse.

Clirl IVf.ini Tsarong.

24;

CHAPTIiR \II

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

Choice of Homeward Route — Caravan Re-formed — Start in the Mekong Valley — Fears
at Landjre — Early Obstacles — Francis Garnicr Peak —Valley of the Salwen— Loutses
and Kioutses — Tionra : Crossing the Salucn — Relations with tlie Lamaserai of
Tchamoutong — Mules Abandoned — On Foot— Tamalou — In the IJasin of the Irawadi
— The Kiou-Kiang — The Kioutses — At Toulong — Difficulties of Recruiting and Re-
victualling — Mosquitoes on the Banks of the River — Rock Climbing — Dcidoum — Aspect
of the Kiou-Kiang Valley — Our Men — Gold-Washing — News of a Large River and a
Plain— The Du-tchu-mu — Perilous Position — Saved — Leeches— The Big River; I'eli)
and Dublu — On all sides Mountains — Painful Torrent March — Death of " Dianiai" —
Duma— Apon Explained — Equatorial Scenery — A Large Village — Beside the Nam Tsan
— Fish-Dam — A New Race — Pandam — No Salt — Melekeu — People of Moam (Khaniti)
— One more Col— \'illage Fete— The I'Kiiii. •

OuK Stay at Tsekou was longer than we had anticipated. The
need of rest (for a fortnight fever only left me to be succeeded
by neuralgia and other ills), the despatch of our men. preparation
for further advance, and the enjoyment of repose in the congenial
society of our fellow-countrymen, all combined to detain us.

Now arose the question as to what routes were open for
selection. Having rejected the idea of returning by the south to
Burmah, which would involve retracing a portion of our steps,
and having negatived the already known eastern roads through
Yunnan, our eyes were fixed upon the west.

If, after ascending the Mekong for several days from Tsekou,
a turn should be made in this direction, we should fall upon
the Thibetan province of Kam, a dependency of Lhaca. The

244

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

district is governed by a liquid resident at Kiangka, with under
him three dcbas, and below them atjain three cheluoono- at Menkonc
Tchraia, and Dzayul. Around the Lamaserai of Menlcong, which
is situated at three days' journey from the Mekong, stretches
the Tsarong country ; and beyond Tsarong the rich valley of
Dzayul (land of the earthen pots), whence streams descend to
the Brahmaputra, as shown by the pundit Krishna. Finally,
westward again beyond Dzayul, between the Tsangpo and the
Lohit lies the Brahmaputra, in the Bayul — a mysterious land
if ever there was one, unmapped, and as free in the past from
Pluropean exploration as in the present from the prying eye of
Russian or Indian scouts. The Bayul or Pourba is divided into
Po-Ten (upper) independent, and Po-Me (lower) subject by pay-
ment of tribute to the second kinchas of Lhaca. Amoncr the
Thibetans of the north the Bayul is renowned for its robbers
and its horses, and the country is reputed rich in gold. The
inhabitants wear hats of ratan, and sell baskets made of the
same material.

From Tsekou a road goes north, which, after skirting the
Dokerla and crossing the Salwen, leads to Menkong, and farther
to Sanguias-Kiendzang. This route offered temptations, as sup-
posing Sanguias-Kiendzang to be attainable we should there find
ourselves at the entrance to the Bayul, and, if access to it was
rigorously denied, there would remain the alternative of taking
up the itinerary of Krishna by Roema and Same. Only, in the
latter event we should not make many explorations.

In order to get to Sanguias-Kiendzang, Tsarong must be
crossed — a dangerous province, the Lamas of which have been
systematically hostile to the missionaries. Moreover, it would
not be on the Chinese that we could reckon for support against

245

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

the native authorities, still less upon fellow- racial Thibetans. In
addition, in the remote possibility of our success, the fact of lead-
ing men from Tsekou into Tsarong would assuredly bring down
reprisals upon the Christians and our countrymen for assisting
us. In my opinion the check appeared certain, and the attempt
therefore useless. We were wayworn, a journey into Thibet
would be very long, winter would be on us closing the passes,
and we should not improbably end by having to spend several
months in some remote valley. Albeit we were here actually at
the threshold of Thibet, all these considerations forced us to
renounce the idea of penetrating farther, and, though it cost us
some regret to relinquish the route to the north-west, we felt
that the success of our main enterprise would console us for
having abandoned an achievement so dependent on chance.

The upshot of these reflections was that we decided to strike
due west on the Salwen, which we should cross to enter Bayul.
The region which, south of Dzayul, is watered by the upper
basin of the Irawadi, is designated by the name of the Rotin
(ratan). Bayul itself is in part a dependency of the mokoua
of Yetche, some Dzayul families, and the Lamaserai of Tchamou-
tong, and partly free. The only particulars we could gather with
regard to this country were that it was watered by the Kiou-kiang,
that the ways were very bad, and that naked savages inhabited
the trees.

In this manner we were about to embark on the hitherto

entirely unknown, with the hope of being enabled to solve the

problem of the sources both of the Salwen and the Irawadi, and

with India for our Promised Land, approached by a new route,

and longed for as a haven of rest.

We reduced our baggage, retaining only twelve mules besides

246

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

•our own saddle animals, and sending fifteen back to Tali under
the charge of the makotou, with whom also went our collections
up to this point. The men who left us received a month's pay ;
and on the 3rd September Briffaud and I went out to see the
column depart. The waters of the river having risen, some diffi-
culty was experienced with the mules at the crossing, but with
the help of extra guy-ropes all were eventually slung across in
safety.

Of our old band we now had only the two Annamites ; Fa,
Roux's henchman ; and another Fa, a vounaf Christian of ei<ihteen,
whom we dubbed Siao (little) Fa for distinction. Lastly, there
was Joseph, the indomitable, of course still anxious to share our
fortunes. In remitting some money for his family by the makotou
he took care to consiafn it to Father Lesfuilcher ; "for," said he.
" if mv wife has it in her hands she will be sure to buy super-
fluous things." Prudent man, he knew the feminine nature.

For new mafous we engaged twenty-four hybrids of Chinese,

Thibetan, and Mosso race. If the mules could not get on we

should send them back and replace our four-legged carriers by

•bipeds. This troop was composed of eighteen Christians and six

pagans, a mixture provided with a view to secure the missionaries

from any future molestation on our account from the local

authorities. The hiring of the heathens was not done without

difficulty. They were supplied by the chief of a neighbouring

village, the besse of Tsedjrong, a h3'pocritical rascal, all devotion

to our face and detestation behind our backs. It was he who

had destroyed the Fathers' bridge, and was seeking by every

means to dislodge them from Tsekou in order that he might lay

hands on their property. And in return for this treatment they

.advanced him money wherewith to pay the taxes and escape the

247

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

])rison at Ouisi. It was an undeserved good fortune that brought
him into relations with such charitable men. He tried to foist
upon us some of his own kindred, demanding a guarantee in
writing against any mishap that might befall them on the road,
and got from us a suitable answer. The missionaries suggested
that the heathens should enter into a written engagement, to be
cancelled if incapacitated by sickness or other accident. The
Tsedjrong folk then drew up a form of contract, i)ut couched in
impertinent terms, alluding to Father Dubernard as "the Tsekou
Chinaman," and filled with misspellings by the besse in order to
hide its authorship. We rejected the document, and it was after-
wards rewritten in conformity with our wishes. The men were
to have si.x taiils a month — high pay for these parts. Wc pro-
vided them with food, and each received two taels in advance to
leave at his home. The Christians requested that their wages
should be deferred until their return ; and, calculating the journey
at three months, we left a sum for them in the hands of the
P^athers, only to be redeemed on production ot a certificate from
us. This may be taken as an instance of the trust and re.spect
inspired by our countrymen in that region, when Christian and
heathen alike, rude but home-staying and timid by nature, were
willing to enter an unknown country of ill repute in our service
upon the simple bond of the blathers for our honesty.

We have incurred a debt of gratitude to the French mission-
aries which we can never adequately requite, and I am fain here
once more to place on record my recognition and regard. With-
out their timely help we could never have brought to a success-
ful issue, nor even prosecuted further, our expedition into India.

By the loth of September our arrangements were made, our

.supplies collected, and money deposited. It took some time to

248

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

calculate the" last in a country where neither a coinage standard
nor paper currency were in use, and value goes by weight. The
business occupied a whole day. We left with the Fathers sixteen
hundred taels, carrying with us only the smallest possible amount.

Our personal belongings, fine by degrees, were speedily
packed, and still more quickly loaded. It was wonderful to
watch the address with which the Thibetans harnessed the
animals. They adopted a different method from the Chinese.
On the beast's back were laid three pads with two small boards
on top, breast and crupper straps held in position a splinter-bar
which in steep descents pressed on the flanks ; the pack-saddle,
not detachable en bloc as in China, was fastened by a girth ; and
the load, instead of being placed horizontally, was secured verti-
cally to the boards by thongs ; by this means less angles were
exposed in narrow defiles than by the Ytinnan method. Some
packages were put on the men's shoulders. We now had eleven
pack and six saddle mules, and with twenty-three porters and
muleteers (three having been despatched in advance to buy pro-
visions on the banks of the Salwen) an imposing troop of thirty-
tour men was formed. Well as I already knew them, I could
not but be struck afresh with the cheery animation and activity
of the Thibetans. They seemed to have real blood in their
veins, a pleasing contrast to the inertness which is so exasperat-
intr in the Chinese.

At our departure a fine rain was falling. Notwithstanding
the dulness of the skies, each one of us felt light-hearted to be
once more en route, bound lor the unknown, curious as to the
secrets of the Salwen, its inhabitants, and what lay beyond.

On account of the wet, most of the men carried their
wool boots slung Thibetan fashion round their necks, and on

249

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

slippery ground went barefoot. As we threaded the upward
valley of the Mekong we passed through Tsedjrong, where our
friend the besse awaited us with a scraggy duck in his liand as
a present, nor was he above accepting a rupee in acknowledg-
ment. Beside the rice-fields which we traversed there grew a
plentiful crop of tares, the peasants professing that in addition
to their furnishing good feed for the cattle, by cultivating tlu-m
on the confines of their plots they prevent them overrLinning
the latter.

At I 1.30 Fathers Soulie and Liard bade us adieu. Father
Dubernard continued with us a space longer. Clad in a velvet
vest and a large red hood, <! la C/iinoisc, and mounted on his
little white horse with red neck-tassels, the " Chief of T.sekou "
with his long white beard appeared like some patriarch of
bygone days, an object of veneration. At midday our men
made a halt of an hour and a half, much shorter than that of
our old caravan. None the less were the packs lifted off, a'
fire promptly lit, and the tea thrown into the pot to boil. The
beverage was then poured with some butter into a wooden
tube fitted with a strainer, and stirred with a long spoon. Each
man brought his porringer for his share, which, with a ration
of tsampa,^ kneaded into balls, constituted his simple repast.

As we proceeded through the village of Regny the natives
that met us saluted us by clasping their hands, or more often
with palms u[)permost as if for an offering, and by inclining
their bodies. Among them was. pointed out to us one, a
hunter, who had committed several murders, but whom none
dared arrest. At a little distance from Fan-fou-pin superstition
marked the abode of a djin to which respectful perfumes are

' Tsampa = millet (lour.

TSEKOU TO K HAM IT

burnt from afar. In the village of Sere, where we stayed for
the night, we were the recipients of gifts, in token of gratitude
to Father Dubernard, by whose intervention a portion of their
belongings had been saved to the people from the expedition
of the mokoua of Yetche. Those of the villagers who were
too poor to have gaous^ carried round their necks amulets
hidden in bamboo tubes. The women had their hair parted in
the middle and hanging down behind in a number of tails,
united lower to form a plaited queue. \\"e slept in a Thibetan house,
with a ground-floor of lime-washed walls and a spacious terrace,
on which stood a row of small white pyramids, holding bunches
of bamboo and serving as altars. Over the door 'was a stone
bearing the inscription, OM mank pedmi houm, surrounded with
serpents.

On the iith (September) we took leave of Father Duber-
nard, and juirsued our way up the course of the river. The road
led beneath a defile formed of mia^htv, iao-o-ed rocks, called b\-
the Thibetans the second gate of Sima-Chan ; the first was at
Lota. Cooper named it the Gorge of Hablus, in memory of
his protector.

Near the village of Gotra we made our breakfast beside a
hot sulphur spring, the waters of which were at a temperature of
of 113" Fahr. Nam caused some amusement here: as he was
suffering from sore legs, we counselled a warm bath ; whereupon
the simple Annamite without hesitation jumjied into the torrent a
hundred yards farther off Beyond Gotra we redescended to the
actual brink of the Mekong through forests of superb coniferse,
and, after crossing a foaming torrent, camped in the brushwood on
the far side. This was our last bivouac on the Mekong.

' Gaous = reliquaries, clianns.

2qi

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

The torce burst chafing- from a narrow breach of wild and
lofty grandeur, which it seemed to have riven for itself in its
escape from the ravine ; the sides were lined with horizontal
strata, revealing the geological formation of the innermost
mountain ; and the glen disclosed a bottom of grey stones sown
with needle-pointed firs. But so constricted was the entrance,
and so forbidding the aspect of the beetling cliffs, that it looked
barely possible that we could penetrate their recesses.

It was, however, through this pass that our route of the
13th (September) took us, when we left behind for good the
actual Mekong valle)- to turn our faces to the west. The
path clung in zigzags to the wall of rock, shored up in many
places by props of wood driven into its face. It was as fine a
piece of engineering as one might see in Switzerland, but
hardly looked to meet with here. Once through the rift, our
descent was fairly rapid, having sombre fir-clad boulders on
our left and a towering red cliff over against us. This part of
the scenery was very fine, and recalled that of the canons in the
Rocky Mountains.

A bridge being reported cut in front, our men asked us to
go forward ; and we learned that the Lamas of Tchamoutong
had received orders from Sanguias-Kiendzang to impede our
progress by all means in their power, threatening with death
anyone who should show us the road to the Salwen. We paid
little heed to these rumours, as we knew that Tchamoutons: had
not had time to communicate with the other and receive a
reply ; but they had their effect on our men. Sure enough,
about two hours farther on we came to the site of a bridge of
which one spar alone was left, and that a rickety one with
barely breadth to put one foot before the other. The rest of

I uh .St

jHclii

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

the beams had been withdrawn to the far side. At great
personal danger one of our porters got across, and, fastening a
noose to the planks, in half an hour we re-established the
connection.

We then advanced with our guns at the head of the column
down a widening val-
ley till we came to
the village of Landjre.
It was built at the
confluence of two
rapid streams, with
large Thibetan houses
situated on terraces
in the midst of fine
culture, chiefly maize
and walnuts. Here
two roads branched —
one to the left, whicli
we should follow ; the
other to the right,
leading to Tsarong,
and used by the pil-
grims of Dokerla
returning from the _^„ ^^^^

Mekong. Any other

route would have vitiated their pilgrimage. In the entry to the
village were some obos and a kortclieii (a little erection in shape
like a lotus bud), and from the roof of the latter projected a staff,
supporting several iron rings and a red crescent.

At our approach the inhabitants came out in astonishment, but

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

with friendly salutations and no demonstrations of hostility. I
asked why they had removed the bridge, but only elicited the
invariable answer, "Jem pou te " ("I don't know"). Nearly as
bad as Maitre Pathelin's " be."

Through our men we heard that these villagers had cause to
fear the Lamas. Placed on the frontier of Thibet, Landjre has to
stop all strangers, and would suffer for any neglect of orders.
Great was their relief, therefore, when we did not take the road to
Tsarong. We pitched our four tents in the fields above the place,
and, despite a rainy evening, the men danced round the fire with
little apparent concern for the future.

The next day, and the ne.xt, it rained, with only slight
intermission. We marched through virgin forests, where the large-
leaved bamboos soaked us through. A rare gleam of sunshine lit
up a savage scene of torrent, rock, and tree, of which it would be
hard to convey an idea. Pines, and oaks, and giant chankas,
with boles of i8 feet diameter and long grey beards of pendent
creepers, choked the slippery path with tangled roots and fallen
trunks. It took the mules six hours to accomplish what we did
in three. Our camp of the 13th (September), among lilies and
rhododendrons on the edge of the euphoniously named torrent Lili,
we called Tululu, after a sort of civet which we had seen in the
woods. Our men had the inspiration to lead with them from
Landjre two of the long horizontal-horned sheep of the country.
The 14th (September) was a heavy day. We crossed the Lili, and
mounted the left bank by sliding zigzags, where the mules fell
constantly and the men had to carry most of the loads. Above the
zone of rhododendrons, and "water, water everywhere" — in the
grass, on the rocks, in the atmosphere, with the thermometer only

3 above freezing. I think if one wanted stage scenery for the

256

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

" Realm of Rain," here would be the spot to study it. At length
we ran the stream to its source in a swamp. This was the col,
12,350 feet, and the limit of the basin of the Mekong, which we
were about to quit. The col marks a depression in the chain ;
above it and
around, the sum-
mits are of great
height. To our
left rose, grim
and grey, a for-
midable array of
fanged ridges,
presenting a
confusion of pin-
nacles like the
spires of some
Gothic monu-
ment. To the
highest of these
we grave the
name of Francis
Garnier Peak, in
memory of the ,,

famed explorer

I- , i\ T 1 Francis Gamier Teak.

01 the Mekong.

On the other side of this neck, and about 600 feet lower,

we landed in a wide morass, impossible of circumvention, and

had no choice but to plunge boldly through. The deep baying

of a dog now betrayed the vicinity of a little hut, whence we were

greeted with the Thibetan alarm-cry, "Hihihi!" However, the
R 257

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

occupants proved to be not more terrible than four herdsmen of
Landjre, who spend six months of the year on the pastures with
their cattle, a few oxen, half-bred dzas, and black yaks, with their
comic tufted tails. Round the cabin, which was open to the four
winds and very cold, were ranged wooden kegs, used as churns.
Their method is to stir the milk in them with a circular perforated
paddle until the butter comes. This removed, the residue is poured
into a large pot on the fire, and the whey as it rises is strained off
through a basket, while the curds are dried at the fire. Their
spare time they employ in carving wooden bowls and spoons, always
singing at their work, and subsist on the ordinary Thibet fare
of tsampa, and tea flavoured with butter. Even here, on the tops
of their mountains, in their miserable shanty, they do not omit
the observance of their religion. There was a shrine on a stone ;
and before drinking the tea our hosts poured a little into a
saucer, which they placed before it. On seeing that I observed
the action, they raised a hand simply towards the sky. There
was something grand in the childlike faith of these half -clad
shepherds.

Some of our men had to pass the night in the open, beside the
packs which had not reached the summit. They were to be pitied.
In the general misery Nam excited my compassion as much as
any. He arrived benumbed and speechless, and had to be rubbed
down by the fire before his features relaxed into that most hideous
grin with which nature ever disgraced human countenance, whilst
he fumbled for his pipe. It was a far cry from the chill mist and
crags of Thibet to the warmth and palm-trees of Saigon.

15th (September). — In the clearer morning air the outline of
Francis Garnier Peak was sharply defined. I profited by the
intermittent arrival of belated baggage to do a little botanising,

258

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

and, notwithstanding the lateness of the season, was still able to
obtain twenty-six specimens of mountain flora. The yaks had gone
early on to the pasture. There they showed, black dots between
the rocks, conspicuous among the other cattle from their bison-like
humps. One large male stood sentinel apart, and gazed on us
with wonder.

Before leaving we bought the watch-dog of the herdsmen, an
animal of the line Thibetan breed, black and tan, with short
muzzle and massive head, adorned with a regular mane. He was
named "Diamai" ("red"), and would be a chum for the small
terrier " Boursica," given us by the Fathers. The same evening,
after a downward climb to bivouac among dripping rhododendrons,
Diamai, an elderly carrier, and one of the sheep, failed to answer
the roll-call. The two following days we kept on through damp
forests, mostly in drenching rain. All were now on foot ; in my
case luckily, since my mule had a nasty fall in one spot. On the
third morning we came upon our stragglers, the old porter seated
by some half-burnt logs, smoking his pipe, between the dog and the
sheep. They had lost the way, and so got ahead of us in the dark.
We could not sufficiently praise our men, who, without a dry stitch
upon them, performed their arduous toil, which now combined that
of mafou and carrier, without a murmur, and generally ended up
the day with songs and laughter round the fire. As for ourselves,
we had now got our walking legs, and were fit for anything. But
for the eternal rain, it would have been delightful.

On the 1 8th (September) we emerged from the woods and
came into the region of dwellings again, passing presently the
hamlets of Feu-la and Meuradon on an affluent of the Salwen.
Wretched collections of huts upon piles they were. The in-
habitants were Loutse. By Loutses were no longer meant, as

259

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

before, Tsekou Lissous frequenting the valley of the Salwen, but
several distinct tribes with their own language and customs.

The Loutses belong to an interesting race hardly met with
in the latitude of Tsekou. They are bounded on the north, at
two or three days' distance from that place, by the folk of the

lip^^'^^-yr ^l

jO-

Kioutse Types.

Tsarong, scattered among whom a few rare Loutse families are

to be found. A few days to the south their limits are with the

Lissous, of whose incursions we had heard so much in the course

of our ascent of the Mekong. The Loutses therefore occupy the

mountains between the Mekong and Assam. At the height at

260

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

which we crossed the Salwen they styled themselves Anous ; a
little farther north, Melams ; and, advancing westward, at Tamalou,
Diasous.

In the basin of the Kiou-kiang the mountaineers are termed
by the Chinese, Kioutses. They are closely akin to the Loutses,
possessing almost the same dialect. Their precise denominations
are successively Toulongs on the banks of the Kiou-kiang,
Tandsards by the river Telo, Reouans at Duma, and Louans at
Pangdam. The people of Khamti, that is to say the Thai's, know
them under the generic title ot Khanungs; and this is the name
marked on the English maps. The same Khamti Thais call the
Mishmis, Khamans. It is probable that the first syllable, Kha, is
identical with the name by which the Laotians describe the hill
tribes of Indo-China. Kha would mean a sort of domestic slave.
Finally, the Thibetans speak of the Loutses as Ngias (imbeciles).
The Loutse language differs entirely from the Lissou, and con-
tains but few Thibetan words. Its construction, too, is dissimilar.

The Loutses relate their own origin thus : — There lived for-
merly on Pemachou (a mountain which we afterwards saw on
reaching the Kiou-kiang) a man and his wife who had nine
sons, each of whom in their turn married. One became king of
Thibet, and another king of Pekin. Then these two asked their
seven brothers for money. The latter refused, and proposed to
make war on them. But the mother interceded, saying, " I am
the mother of you all. Do not quarrel ; you seven ought to give
each a little to the two who are kings." Her counsel prevailed :
and that is how the seven, who peopled the district of the
Loutse-kiang and became the Loutses, came to render tribute
to China.

Like the Lissous, the Loutses are not the owners of the soil.

261

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

When they wish to clear a mountain they pay a sum to the
mokoua or to their chief, who will later adjudge the impost of
the village. But he can also, if he likes, evict the new tenants.
On the frontier of Thibet these hillmen come freely into the
Lamaserais, but are spectators only of the religious exercises.
The Loutses are usually, but not by law, monogamists. A pro-
posal for the hand of
a daughter is made
by offerings to the
parents — some wine,
a knife, or a pot,
on the acceptance
of which depends
that of the suitor.
Their consent ac-
quired, a betrothal
feast ensues, with
more gifts from the
bridegroom — larger
jars of spirit, a pig,
a pot, a tripod,
ear - rings, and a
tchaupa (Thibetan
garment), with the necessary viands. The newly wedded hus-
band visits his bride at his discretion ; after a year of probation
the wife takes up her abode with him. Should any discord arise,
the parents must return the son-in-law's presents. Among the
polygamous Kioutses the marriage rules are simpler. If the wife
does not present her spouse with an heir he does not pay for her.

There are few good looks and little modesty among the families

262

Loutsc Types.

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

or tribes. The inheritance of the sire is shared amongst the
sons, and a father can disinherit a refractory son. In dress the
men follow the Thibetan fashion. The women are attired in two
garments — one fitted to the figure, the other looped from under
the left arm to the riyht shoulder. Sometimes thev have a white
fillet like the Lissous, their hair either loosely gathered into a
net, or shaved, leaving a toupet in front. Two ladies we observed
with rectangular green tattooing on the nose and cheeks ; they
were heiresses. Nearly all the females carried a small distaff,
with which they spun hemp unceasingly. Assassination is not
reerarded as a heinous crime, but blood monev is sometimes ex-
acted. The dead are buried with the usual symbols of the de-
funct's occupation on the grave. They believe the deceased
go to a beautiful land if they have done good, and if not that
they rejoin the bad spirits. The Kioutses have their witch-
doctors, and sacrifices for the sick ; but diseases are rare, and
centenarians not uncommon. Venereal complaints are unknown.
When a malady declares itself, a fowl or a pig is vowed
to the evil spirit. In the house where we slept a sorcerer
was engaged in exorcising such a one from a sick woman.
The rites resembled in the main those we had witnessed on
a former occasion, save that in this instance some little wax
images were employed, which were anointed with tsampa and
water, and placed in the fork of a big tree outside that was supposed
to have had an ill influence on the patient. The physician went
through a variety of incantations and facial contortions, and finally
touched the sick woman's head with a peacock's feather. But he
smiled at me the while.

At Meuradon we found one of our men whom we had sent

before us from Tsekou. He had been as far as the Lamaserai

263

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

of Tchamoutong on the right bank of the Salwen, and pronounced
the Lamas well disposed towards us ; but added that the mules
could not pass beyond that point, and that we should be obli<red
to go two days farther down the river to find a practicable route
to the west.

At Tionra, where we were only five hours' march from the
Salwen, we were glad of a day's halt in the regained warmth of
the sun. The Loutses here were mild-mannered and hospitable,
but wretched and dirty in the extreme. Their physical attributes
were, well developed but receding foreheads, the countenance
larger than the Thibetans, with eyes not oblique like the Chinese,
and the facial angle rather sharp. The women were little round-
about beings.

The 2ist and 22nd (September) were employed in the passage
of the Salwen. All our party were in high spirits, and the cattle
rested. At the request of the men, the mules were given a hash
of raw fowls and salt, avowed by the Thibetans to be a rare
pick-me-up for beasts of burden. We ferried over in skiffs about
16 feet long, hollowed out ot trunks of trees. Prom two to
four men manoeuvred them with small oars. The crossing was
an easy matter compared with that of the Mekong at Halo ;
there were no real rapids here, and counter-currents could be
taken advantage of The temperature of the water was much
the same as that of the Mekong at the same height, being 60'
Fahr. ; but a neighbouring tributary from the mountains registered
nearly 6° higher.

On the right bank we received a messenger from the Lamaserai

of Tchamoutong, distant now only a few miles, who announced that

the superior had under him seventy-six Lamas (" Red Hats "),

that he was afraid to come himself to meet us in con.sequence of

264

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

an injunction from Tsarong against allowing us to enter Thibet,

but he sent us by two of his Lamas gifts of tchang, flour, and

butter, as well as other provisions for sale. These holy emissaries

took frequent pinches of snuff from a little horn. In return I

charged them with chromolithographs for their chief, and astonished

them by exhibiting photographs of their Grand Lama at Lhaca.

It was politic that they should take with them the tale that the

French were evidently on good terms with them of Thibet.

On the 23rd and 24th (September) we continued down the

Salwen by a good road. As is the case lower, the valley is

greener than that of the Mekong, with t^ora almost approaching

that of warm countries. The trees were literally decked with

tufts of orchids, whose jellow and brown spotted blooms hung in

odoriferous clusters : this might appropriately have been named

the Orchid Valley, a paradise for amateurs. Creepers abounded,

one in especial with thick leaves and scented white waxen flowers,

which 1 have seen in conservatories at home. Another shrub,

too, I noted for its fruit, like the arbutus, but containing a

delicious , cream. Djewan was our stage, and here we gleaned

a few meagre particulars about the Kiou-kiang. Mention was

also made ot a larger and further stream called the Nimer. The

people told us that the son of the chief of Ngaihoa, whom we

had seen as we passed through that district, had been seized by

Lissous while trafficking on the Kiou-kiang. He had saved his

life, but lost his merchandise. Most of the inhabitants of Djewan

were Lissous, but pacific — at least towards us. Our host was a

Chinese trader of Setchuen. He collected chiefly drugs, amongst

others a large tuber found in the root of rotten pines called fouline,

which is held in much estimation in Chinese pharmacy.

After Djewan we worked westward again, and for two days

265

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

reascended by the bed of a small tributary of the Salwen. But
the higher we went the worse grew the path, till it was no better
than a track through sodden brake and over abrupt declivities.
Great thorny thistles with yellow heads choked the hollows, through
which the mules, even stripped, could hardly struggle. The
unloading and loading went on incessantly. Our progress was,
in consequence, almost nominal, and on the 27th (September) came
to a dead stop. We therefore called a halt to allow the stragglers
to close up. Here, in response to our oit-repeated inquiries, two
Lissous spoke of a district on the Upper Kiou-kiang called
Dutchu, where one half of the denizens were robbers and lived
in holes, and the other half were timid and slept in trees.
Beyond the Kiou-kiang were three mountains, then a big river
named Tersa, where we should find rice, and black Lamas, and,
further, Chinese (.''). Valuable information, forsooth! However,
the more mysterious this region the more we desired to find it.

In the evening our scouts came in on the main column, and
reported no possibility of getting the mules any farther. We
held a council of war, and decided to push on afoot for the ne.xt
village with a few carriers, whom we could send back with food to
the succour of the rest. In accordance with this resolution, on the
28th (September) we set forward, and almost immediately after-
wards the wood closed upon us. Our men had not lied. There
was not so much as a track. We followed the general direction
indicated by broken twigs. We did not mount, we did not descend
— we simply gave ourselves over to gymnastics. Clambering over
roots, grappling with trees, now bestriding a huge trunk, anon
crawling on all-fours, foot by foot we won our way. We slid, we
tumbled, we saved ourselves by a vine, and, when we found a square

yard to stand upon, stopped for breath. On one such platform,

266

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

of rather less precarious dimensions, we made our midday meal.
Water was running" among the boulders in a bed of felspar granite^
moss and red orchids tapestried the sheltering wall of rock. On
their arrival at the biaf tea-kettle, the first care of the Thibetans
after dropping their packs was to draw forth their bamboo-root
pipes, and in blue clouds of tobacco smoke to obliterate their trials.
None can tell the full enjoyment of a pipe after the hardships of a
march like this. Nam shared our view as he squatted like a
Buddha ruminant. I believe a cataclysm would not shake him out
of a casuality greater even than an American's.

Naturally, there was no further question about the mules. We
sent back word to the headman to forward all the packs he could,
and to leave the animals where they were under a small guard.
For the present it must ho. pedidiis cum janilns for us, like the great
Tartarin. But this was something- like exploration. The enjoy-
ment of the work grew on me. And added to it all was the distant
pleasure of dropping in upon the English by a road they did not
know.

We had thought our efforts of the morning laborious : they were
nothing to those of the rest of the day. Close following on the
escalade of a crag by the help of two notched tree trunks, there
succeeded a struggle up an almost perpendicular rampart of damp
soil, where, while digging one's elbows into the surface and clutch-
ing the tussocks, a slip would seem to have set one rolling to
eternity. I own I did not dare look back for fear of giddiness.
Shortly before nightfall we bivouacked on a ledge hard by a patch
of snow. The altitude was 10,808 feet, and the temperature 48°
Fahr. As it was fine, and we were dry, we all felt better than at
the base of the Garnier Peak. This was Nam's first introduction

to snow, which his curiosity led him to taste, under the assurance

267

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

from the others that it was sugar. The children of Annam. at
least the Tonkinese, know only ice, which they call in their picture-
language "stone- water."

At daybreak I had from my tent door a glorious sight. The
whole valley of the Sal wen lay stretched before me, a sea of cloud,
with here and there a detached wreath of vapour floating feather-
like above in the rays of the sun. The great dividing range
betwixt the Mekong and the Salwen upheaved its grey mass with
sharp-cut edges against the sky, conspicuous in which a single
summit stood forth dominant. Garnier Peak was invisible from
here, but we could distinguish a lesser rock in the chain, to which
we had given the name of the Dent de Djewan. Little by little
the mists rose like a curtain from below and blotted out the scene,
which remained only as a vision of the dawn.

A stiff climb still separated us from the col, and occupied the
morning. Once on the other side, the descent was as rapid and
slippery as the seat of one's trousers could desire. We brought up
at the village of Tamalou, Tamalo, Tamalopoula, or even Poulalo ;
each variation having been used to designate to us the group ot
seven hamlets that here dotted the banks of the river Poula,
affluent to the Salwen. Henceforward more protracted halts were
imperative, owing to the necessity, now that we were on foot, of
providing supplies for some days in advance, and extra followers to
carry them.

We had first to re-establish communication with our mules ; for
which purpose twelve men were despatched to bring up the remain-
ing loads, with directions to send back the animals under escort to
Tsekou with a few cases not absolutely indispensable, consigned to
Father Dubernard. Great difficulty was experienced in enlisting

additional porters. We had personally to beat up the huts and

268

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

offer inducements. Even so, they would not engage to cro beyond
the Kiou-kiang.

While waiting here we mixed freely with the people, whose
hospitable reception of us was in large measure owing to the
excellent relations we had had with the king of Yetche. They
were Loutses, mostly dressed in white togas with blue stripes, and
epaulettes like the Lamasjens ; many wore a cap of brown felt, and
all had large white bead necklaces. Each hamlet was merely a
collection of two or three houses under a headman. A tax-eatherer,
sent yearly by the Yetche mokoua, or by the mandarin of Ouisi,
takes a tsien per house in money or kind ; otherwise they are
unburdened. A few trophies of the chase, skulls, and horns of the
raguen and diasuna {^iieinorrhcsdus and biidorcas) decorated the
interiors, but we saw few tools. The women do what little tillacre
is necessary for bare sustenance. One of the chiefs on whom we
called had a primitive still in which he manufactured a sort of spirit.
A funnel hollowed out of a tree was placed over a cauldron of hot
water upon the fire. A wattle in the former contained the maize,
roasted and mixed with leaven. On top was fitted a vat of cold
water constantly replenished, which hermetically sealed the funnel.
A bowl received the condensed vapour, which fell into the centre
by a bamboo tube. We tasted the liquor, and upon m\- word it
was not bad.

By the 4th (October) we were ready again. W'e resumed our
route with but vas:ue instructions for our future gruidance, but under
better physical conditions, and passed the first night beneath the
gigantic branches of a monster tree in shape like a dragon. The
ponderous arms were fraught with menace, but we consoled our-
selves by reflecting that as they had threatened thus for many

years, they would probably last out our temporary stay.

269

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

The two following days were employed in surmounting a crest
of 10,725 feet. From here our new Loutse carriers sent back four
stalwart wenches, who had helped their relatives with their loads up
the ascent. I secured a garter, — " honi soit," — and found its
measurement to be 19 inches below the knee.

Then more up hill and down dale, damp underfoot but bright
overhead. The thick bamboo brake which clothed the south-
west sides of the hills did its utmost to retard our advance. Not
content with striking us in the face, the canes lay low and
tripped us when we stooped, and the mildest of our adversaries
poured a few drops of water down our necks or relieved us of
our head - gear. When we exchanged this vegetation, it was for
barer heights, among which often gleamed little grey -blue lochs;
a scenery not unlike some parts of the Pyrenees.

After a strenuous climb up a dry watercourse, we emerged
upon the col. This pass over the mountains has a terrible
reputation in snow. Natives hurry over it ; song and gunshot
are unheard under the great dread inspired by its solitude and
many victims. And in truth, human skulls and shin-bones, a
porringer, a fragment of a pipe, bore dreary testimony to the
fate of unfortunate wayfarers overtaken by the cold. Our little
band pressed on in silence among the sombre scattered rocks. It
took several hours along the ridges before we ensconced our-
selves for the night in the dry brushwood beneath a sheltering
mound.

Whilst the men were preparing the bivouac, I could not
resist the desire to climb a neighbouring eminence, on the brow
of which I found myself the centre of a vast jaanorama of extra-
ordinary grandeur.

The mist which had wrapped us during the last stage of our

270

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

march was torn apart, and the horizon in the west was glowing
clear. In the foreground below me the land fell in green terraces,
dotted with dark stunted firs, towards the Kiou-kiang. The river
itself could be divined, though not discerned. North-west, a lofty
range, erect, stern, and snow-clad, formed Nature's fit, if forbidding,
barrier to Thibet. Away to the west-south-west opened a gap, an
ample valley fringed with lesser mountains, above which the zenith
lay blue, flecked with white cloud. That was no sky of China ; — •
imagination caught afar a visionary glimpse of India. Backward,
whence we had come, the eye revisited the chain of separation
now searched by the setting sun, which glistened on a recent
whitening of the crests. It leaped the whole interjacent river
basin, and scanned their well-known features, to where, appearing
in a cleft, Garnier Peak stood up, sprinkled with fresh snow, and
set like a miniature in perspective. It wheeled to the left, and
rested in the north upon a lonely rounded summit, Pemachou,
the legendary cradle of the Loutse race. That night we slept in
considerable contentment with the ideas conjured up by our wide
prospect, and recked little that the thermometer stood only two
degrees above freezing.

8th (October). — Following the spurs we continued to descend,
at first among bamboos, and later in rhododendrons. Beneath
their spreading roots we passed more skeletons, the blood con-
gealed upon the skulls, with derelict bowls and strainers. In the
bottom of the valley we sighted the Kiou-kiang, running over a
shingle bed, blue as the Aar. Casting about for a camping ground
about 900 feet above the river, we came across two little
thatched bamboo huts on piles. The thresholds stood agape,
the hearths deserted. In the abandoned garden were remains of

tobacco culture, pumpkins, beans, and plantains, — and beneath a

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

rough shelter lay two dead bodies. Truly a day of mortality :
we had left skeletons only to find corpses.

We quitted these undesirable companions for a spot half an hour
lower down, where lodging was obtained in the wattled bamboo
dwelling of the son of the chief of the district, which was called
Toulong. Here, as at Tamalou, we encountered further delays in
procuring supplies and carriers. At our first approach the alarmed
inhabitants began to hide their food in the mountains. Luckily,
they were of a gentle, timid race, Kioutses, so named from the
Kiou-kiang, though they styled themselves Tourong or Toulong,
and the river Toulong-remai. In speech and appearance they
differed but little from the Loutses, save that in frame they
were rather more robust. The men mostly had a twig or
thorn in the ear as ornament ; the women sometimes a large
silver ear-ring. The latter also were tattooed in green round
the mouth. Formerly they used to be unmolested, but the Loutses
made war on them, and it was then that they lived for precaution
in holes under the trees. By degrees, when they found we gave
them presents of blue atoutzi yarn (here held in high estimation)
and cotton, and paid well, they became tamer ; and again we
traced our indebtedness to an emissary of the Yetche mokoua.
The collector of revenue (called in Lissou, nerba) had received
instructions from his superior in our favour, and in him we found
a valuable auxiliary. As if as a further aid there also arrived
at this period from Tamalou a Chinese itinerant trader, who had
been instrumental in helping us when there. These two together
used all their influence on our behalf. Still, our patience was never
more tried : the natives could not be brought to understand the
need of diligence. The longer our large troop remained stationary
the more it exhausted the available supplies on the spot. The

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

nerba at last issued a nioukd (in Loutse, a cliiteun\ or requisition
message, which was forwarded to a chief lower down. A second
moukd was required for a new cord bridge by which to cross the
Kiou-kiang. This was made with ease and dexterity. There was
no lack of bamboos, and of them a twisted cable was fashioned by
one man in one day. I could not but admire the address with
which a broad river is thus spanned. With all our vaunted science
we could not have beaten this in old Europe.

On the 13th (October) baggage was triced up, beds folded,
tents struck, and our men began to emit sounds of rejoicing and
departure from bamboo tubes. But where were the local carriers .■*
Two reluctantly approached. And now appeared on the scene
a new bore, in the person of a Chinese delegate from the mandarin
at Ouisi. This dignitary was a man of immense self-importance.
Fresh palavers ensued. Tlie Celestial, after a long-winded speech,
would strut out of the apartment in seeming dudgeon. Negotiations
were apparently broken off The next minute he was back again
in the doorway, and the whole farce was acted anew. Then
the nerba, who had promised to set us a short distance on our
way, suddenly developed intense official preoccupation ; and the
carriers refused to go beyond two stages instead of six. And,
after all, we found the reason of this unexpected change of manner
was that one of our men had got into a scrape with a village belle.
An indemnity was graciously accepted by the latter, and we actually
made a move as far as the river-side. Here we passed a night
of vigil from the myriad mosquitoes. Tlie mere lighting of a
match caused a cloud to settle on our laces. At 2 a.m. I could
stand it no longer, and patrolled the camp till dawn.

We were early astir, thankful to be off The nerba was
there, shouldering a mighty cross-bow, the Chinese sutler, and
s 273

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

the fresh bearers, each with his wallet stocked with houann-niai,
a rock jjlant remedial in dysentery, of which we forthwith pur-
chased a supply. Altogether the column numbered nearly three-
score men. The river at this point was about 50 yards broad,
with traces of a rise of 40 feet in flood. The transference of
ourselves and chattels was accomplished without hitch ; we even
stopped to take a photograph in mid-air.

Ill', 1 liiilU""*^ iiiiiil 1 1 1

Bamboo Bndijc o\er Torrent, \allc) of the kiou-ki.ing.

On the 15th (October) we kept down the right bank of the
Kiou-kiang, and the vegetation had changed. We were now
among large creepers bearing tempting red berries unfit to eat,
shrubs with a rosy blossom not unlike the hortensia, only scented,
fig-trees, plantains, elegant palms, and, in damp spots, clumps

of fern 6 feet high. The river was low, and ran in a bed of

274

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

orranite, quartz, and micaschist. The natives who came in with
food were well formed, though diminutive, almost naked, and
wholly dirtv, but withal of a not altogether unprepossessing
type, having large eyes, small heads, hair less coarse than the
Chinese and tending to brown, and their lower faces rendered
more shapely from slightly prominent cheek - bones. Most of
them carried a sword in a big sheath across the chest. Both
men and women smoked a powdered green tobacco. W'e paid
them partly in mone\-, but chiefly in yarn.

The path by which we reached Deidoum on the i6th
(October) was frightful. It was blocked by enormous rock
masses, which had to be scaled, in some instances, by the help
of notched tree trunks and trailers, but more frequentK" without,
and having a 20-feet drop on the other side. Even the dogs
had to be carried in places. Twice across a torrent b\- a liana
bridge, holdinfr to the hand of the man in front. But no sooner
over than the clambering began again. The agility of the men
was wonderful ; no projection was too slight for a step, no
indentation too shallow for a toe. Their bare feet gave them
an advantage. And yet this route is not held to be a bad one
by the natives. They admitted that there was one, going west-
ward from Toulong into the mountains, that was dangerous. I
wonder what it may be like. What we were traversing is the
high road from China to India — the subject of so many English
dreams, and the ideal line of Captain Blackstone. For the
present, I rather imagine it has small chance of becoming an
artery of commerce.

The denizens of Deidoum were very shy. At flrst they
inspected us from afar, climbing the trees and peeping at us
through the branches. The least suspicious movement on our

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

part, and they vanished like a Might of sparrows. Little by little
they gained confidence, but great persuasion was required to
induce a few to act as carriers.

From a hill, on the 17th (October), we opened out the moun-
tains formerly descried from the pass above the Kiou-kiang.
Dense woods grew right up to the base of their crowning bas-
tions, which were precipitous, though often flat-topped. They
were named the Moutentekie rocks.

This valley of the Kiou-kiang, which we had now been
threading for several days, with many more to follow, gave an
impression of greater size than that of the Mekong, since,
although narrow at the bottom, it was bounded by mountains
of receding gradients, each with its own forest species, from
palms below to ilex and rhododendrons above. It is one of the
peculiarities of the scenery of the Upper Irawadi to find these
clear rapid waters, like Swiss torrents, fretting their course
through tropical vegetation. The region is little inhabited, and
dwellings, whether single or in small groups, are invariably
about the middle zone of altitude. Culture is evident only in
occasional narrow strips of buckwheat, millet, or maize, and
thir-n merely in sufficient quantities to supply the most meagre
necessity.

On the 1 8th (October) we reached the foot of a waterfall,
sighted on the previous day, which fell from a height of 200
feet on to a smooth rock. With its flashing drops and iridescent
spray amid the green foliage, it was like a diamond pendant in
its casket. A side torrent had to be crossed, with no more
bridge than a couple of slippery bamboos. Most of us crawled
gin^t:rly over unencumbered. But two of our men rashly ven-
tun d on it at once. I heard the rotten saplings crack, and was

276

■Ddwn with a crash into lli- I'oamiiii; Water.

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

in time to see the sticks go down with a crash into the foaming
water. However, we saved our half-drowned comrades farther
down. What with swarms of virulent mosquitoes to harass our
rest at night, and the severe toil undergone by day, we were
having a fairly hard time of it. Luckily the weather at this
stage was beautiful, just like spring in France. Our chief
disquietude was on the score of food ; and now we had to
share some of our scanty stock with departing relays of Kioutse
bearers, who by the terms of agreement should have victualled
themselves.

I do not know but that we reached the acme of cumulative
obstruction at this period. Up to the present we had over-
come many a spell of choice obstacles. They had not exhausted
the vagaries of nature. Indeed they might be looked upon
rather as the occasional rockets of the entertainment, and this
as the fciL d'ai'tijices. Jigged points, slippery surface, crumbling-
brinks, creepers that tripped, worm - eaten trunks up which to
swarm, almost vertical ladders to climb, formed of wooden pickets
driven into the face of overhanging bluffs, often hauled by sheer
strength of a couple of men and liana drag-ropes over boulders.
We struggled on because we had to, and sat down abruptly on
the other side, to marvel how the deuce we got there. Let
any who want good training for calf and biceps come here. A
mile or two in a day was sometimes all we could do, and at this
rate we began to despair of seeing India in 1896.

Camped on the 19th (October) beside a curious rock. It
was of granite, and 20 feet high. Outside it looked very
ordinary, but, on descending to its base, an aperture was dis-
covered leading into a circular chamber, pierced with two windows

like eyes. One could imagine oneself inside a colossal head

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

like that of "Freedom lighting the World" in New York.
Evidently this cavity had been caused by the river at high
water, an inverse phenomenon to that of the " Marmites des
Grants " in Switzerland.

Wild as our life was, we had grown accustomed to it, and
were a united band in t)ur daily adventures. At daybreak our
men rose in their tchaupas like loose dressing-gowns, stretched
themselves, had a wash, and lit the fire ; during all which opera-
tions the Christians repeated their prayers, which sometimes lasted
well on into the day's march. Tea was brewed, and some
maize or millet partaken of The troop was divided into several
messes. In No. i was Anio, chief of the porters and com-
missary-general, a man of rare thews, indefatigable energy, and
self-sacrifice. Then there were Petalon, the wag of the party,
who kept everyone alive with his jests and grimaces ; and
Loureti, his younger brother, too slight for this sort of journey.
With them were also Jose the faithful, a cross between Mosso
and Thibetan, a grand fellow and my especial bodyguard, who
carried my camera and gun, and looked after me like a mother ;
and Goumbo ("divine grace"), the Adonis of the band, quite a
painter's model with his large soft black eyes, but very reserved.
Mess No. 2 contained three mighty brothers, plucky but generally
keeping aloof from the rest, though one was much attached
to Roux ; and another interesting type of a Thibetan, a Herculean
monster, whose matted hair, flat nose, and open mouth gave him
quite the ferocious aspect of the conventional ogre ready to
crunch raw fowls. All the above were Christians. Among the
pagans, too, we had good stuff men displaying equal attachment
to us. There was Oumbo, son-in-law of the Tsedjrong bess^,

who undertook voluntarily the hardest tasks with unimpaired

280

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

vivacity, notwithstanding his ill looks, corrugated brow, and pro-
jecting jaw. And we owed as much to Seran-Seli ("eternal
life") as to anyone in the company — the man to unravel a
knot if ever there was one, who spoke Lissou and even a little
Kioutse, and having been in the Kiou-kiang valley before in
search of gold, had experience of the inhabitants. His description
of the gold-washing (on a left-bank tributary of the Kiou-kiang)
showed it to be but rough. The large stones were turned over
and the silt sifted for grains of the precious metal. Occasionally
a nugget as large as a haricot bean was found. The gravel
and slush were then strained on wooden shutters and the gold
remained. A man may collect sometimes a tael weight ( i ;l oz.
adp.) in a week. Both here and on the Loutse-kiang the
search is unrestricted ; on the Mekono- it is taxed.

After chota pipes were lighted. The manufacture of these
bamboo pipes was a great distraction during our enforced delays,
and we had become adepts in the art. Then tents were struck,
the modest kitchen range stowed with excessive caution by old
Nam, and loads assumed. Anio apportioned the labour, and
we never heard a complaint ; on the contrary, the sick or tired
were often relieved by their comrades. Once under way, each
man went his own gait. The van on reaching a plateau got a
welcome rest while awaitino; the rearg-uard. At the close of the
da)', after the Thibetans had lent a voluntary hand to our
Annamites in strewing our leaf mattresses, came the best hour
in the twenty-four : we sat round the hres, wrote up our log,
drank tea, smoked and chatted with the men. Most of them
spoke or understood a little Chinese, and by aid of signs or a
pat on the back and a pinch of tobacco we established an

excellent good-fellowship.

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

In the course of these chats we were puzzled by accounts
given by the Kioutses. According to them, we were to find
within a few days a larc^e river, the Neydu (Lissou, "big
water"), to follow it up seven marches, cross a high mountain,
and then arrive at a wide plain which was called Apon, where
the villages were frequent, the houses circular, and the people

Midday Halt.

dressed in trousers and vests like ourselves, only with black
teeth and wearing turbans. To us poor weary rock-climbers the
word plain spelt paradise, and Apon became the constant theme
of speculation and debate.

As far as our investigations upon the fauna of the Kiou-

kiang went, the results were largely negative. We heard that

282

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

tigers, though sometimes seen, are rare ; neither wolves nor deer
are met with ; and the wild ox (by which was probably meant
the biidorcas) is tawny or black. The wild ass {jiemorrhccdtis),
black and white roebuck, dark-haired goats with horns like the
markhor of Kashmir, were not mentioned. There are black
bears, and foxes of three colours of the Thibetan species ; and
monkeys and large bats are numerous in the forests.

The following is the translation given me by Joseph of the
names of the several more important rivers we had seen :■ —

Lang-

-tsotig

-kiang

at makes waves

swift

river

Lou-

-kiang

Wrath

river

Kiou-

-kiang

That zigzags

river

Toii-ron^

or

Ton-long

That

h

as

stones.

I tried to make a careful study of the Kioutse type of physiog-
nomy. The line from the lacrymal duct to the nostril, almost
straight in many people, is with them very sloping ; they have
thick lips, short chins, and triangular face. The space between
the eyes is wide, and general cast of countenance not displeasing.
The visage seems small, from the pent-house thatch of hair over-
hanging it. Chests big, and thighs largely developed from hill-
climbing.

A long march on the 23rd (October) brought us to the
scattered hill village of Tukiu - mu. On the way, near the
river, I had noticed a species of date and excellent figs ; I also-
picked up some large brown seeds in a pod similar to what I

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

had seen in Madagascar. Just outside the village we passed
a tomb stuck with stones and bamboo tubes, which hatl probably
originally held food for the deceased. A post on which was
the skull of an ox, and five perches surmounted by wooden
birds roughly carved to represent hovering, were sufficient to
scare most evil spirits. It was some time since we had met
with these attentions to the dead.

While at Tukiu-mu, where we all shared one roof, the rains
once more descended, and we might have supposed ourselves
shut up in a house-boat. The people of the district were so
destitute, of food as well as raiment, that we again found our-
selves checked for three days, and in straits for provisions.
The annoyance was that we had no hold on the natives : they
had only to disperse into the recesses of the hills or to hide
their grain to have us at their mercy. Even supposing we
could have laid violent hands on their property, we should
have alienated the very levies on whom we relied to carry it.
Having an aversion to rain, they would only come in singly
or by couples under cover of large shells made of tree bark,
bringing a few tongs (Thibetan measure) of rice, the husking"
of which in one little wooden mortar occupied another day in
this heaven - forsaken place. We paid for everything (which
was little) — in trinkets, prints, and yarn. But our most .seductive
wares failed to extort any but the scantiest pittance of tobacco.
It was amusing to witness poor Nam's dejection, and the care
with which he dried at the fire a sintjle leaf he had somewhere
acquired, fondling it like an old savant over the rarest object
in his collection.

It was the same story. The inhabitants raised just sufficient

for bare existence, and having no money had no desires. I

284

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

conceded their grounds, but resented the consequence. Neces-
sity has no law : here, as at home, hunger is hunger. Our
pHght proclaimed the socialist theory to us more clearly than
the loudest speech, even to the excuse of robbery with want for
cause. The Haves defend themselves from the Have Nots ;
and justly. But when the former condemn the latter without
remission in the name of high-sounding principles, they have
not put themselves in the others' place. We were now in the
position of the indigent ; and, reflecting, became indulgent.

As the result of a council held in the preceding evening with
Anio and Joseph, we set forward again on the 27th (October).
From Tukiu-mu to the big river was reported four days' march.
We had food for two. Our design was to go on short rations, and
to send Seran-Seli with two men on ahead to try and procure
supplies to meet us. In the midst of our perplexities we had the
satisfaction to detect no sign of discontent among our followers
proper. They simply asked if we were going much farther, with a
view to avoiding this route on their way back to Tsekou ; to which
I gladly replied by a promise to send them home by Ava in Burmah.
and Tali, and they were satisfied.

Our departure was slow. At the last moment most of the
local carriers vanished. It was no time for compliments, so we
promptly collared some Kioutses who were innocently looking
on, and started with nine pressed hands. After a few hours'
marching in a steady downpour through dripping woods, we came
to the confluence of the Kiou-kiang with a stream on the right
bank, the Du-tchu-mu. This river rolled a strong head of water
tumultuously over shingle bars, and its black tide was furrowed
with ribands of foam for a considerable distance before minelino-
with the other. Here we found Seran-Seli, unable to pro-

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

•ceed. Hardly above the swirl three ratans swuno^ loose from
a post on either bank, but not tautened for a rope bridge.
The river was in flood. The pebbles on the margin were
covered with big black wood - bugs, seeking safety from the
swollen current ; we crushed them as we sprang from stone to
stone, and they emitted a fetid odour. But the Kioutses stooped
to gather and devour them. While cnmchlng these tasty bon-bons,
they further encouraged us by explaining that the l)u-tchu-mu was
usually crossed by a tin)- raft, which, under existing conditions,
-was out of the question.

"What is to be done, then?" we asked. "When the waters
are out," replied the\-, "we stay at home."

A Thibetan, one of the three brothers, volunteered to make
the attempt by the slack-rope, for which service of danger we
offered a reward. The night now falling, the venture was deferred
till daylight, and we camped where we were.

Not long after, 1 noticed the men retiring higher into the

woods to sleep. Looking out of the tent, I perceived the water

rising rapidly round us : it was high time to beat a retreat, if we

did not wish to wake up in the river. In the darkness and

confusion of rushing streams, it was no easy matter to clutch our

belongings and make a hasty escape on all-fours up the channeled

bank. The camp was in dismay. W^e found Nam among his pots,

swearing and wailing by turns. "Master Doctor! Master Sire!

Annamite no way make dinner, — no China way!" (by "China"

he included all that was neither Annamite nor French). " Don't

cry, Nam, we'll do without ; " we consoled him like a child.

Finally, we gained the shelter of a big rock, and there, with the

help of the men's tent and a fire, while the rain kept up a deluge

without, we passed the remainder of the night huddled together

286

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

as best we could. I counted twenty-nine beings within the limits
of that tent — Frenchmen, Chinese, Annamites, Thibetans, Lissous,
and Kioutses. The men maintained an excellent demeanour, but
beneath our jokes we all had the serious reflection that if the
waters still increased, or we failed to cross, the alternative would

Beside Ihe I)u-lclni-mu.

be that of abiding in a district that could barely provide us with

two days' sustenance.

But with dawn on the 2Sth (October) came unexpected relief.

As if by enchantment the inundation had receded, the shingle

bank on which we had been marooned was free, the Du-tchu-mu

was only a sullen torrent growling between its almost normal banks ;

the very bugs were gone.

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

I imagine this phenomenon of flood overnight followed by-
abatement in the morning, which we more than once experienced,
is to be attributed to diurnal melting of the snows at the
source.

Our first care was to repair the connection with the far side ;
and a Kioutse having contrived to cross, our men were not long
in following. The ratan was old and frayed, but by putting-
a clod of turf upon the traveller the friction was lessened, and
all passed in safety, if not in comfort, over the minished stream.
The heavier of the party, myself included, had to present our
backs to the current, and did not escape a ducking. After the
troubles of the preceding night, fortune seemed determined to
make amends, and, when we called halt at the close of the day
at " Safety Camp," further disclosed to us a little cache of four
good-sized baskets of maize and rice. It was curious to note
the respect of the Kioutses for personal property : this harvest
of provision for winter was left in perfect trust out in the country,
far from dwellings, and merely covered with leaves. From it
we were enabled to purchase a small replenishment of our
stock.

The 29th (October) was therefore a day of restored hilarity.
Not that much improvement of the route was observable ; the
customary acrobatic performance had to be got through, with for
one of the Thibetans an incidental fall from a 20-feet rock ; but
we managed to dry everything by the margin of the Kiou-kiang,
which here was a broad sheet of water, swift but noiseless, and
wonderfully clear.

The men enjoyed themselves " after hours" by stone-throwing,
in which the Thibetans excel, and by a swimming exhibition by
P^talon the buffoon and Fa the younger. The Kioutses, as

288

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

undressed as usual, squatted on a rock apart, beneath a great
tree, whose branches swept the stream and up-bore a hanging
garden of ferns, orchids, and woodbine clinging by long lianas
to the forest behind. This forest assumed more and more the
character of warm regions ; the bamboos were enormous, tree-
ferns 30 feet high, and above the pale green stars with which the
plantains studded the hills palms with their metallic sheen rose
rigid and erect. But from the dense mass of humid vegetation
issued an army of leeches ; they dropped from the bushes, they
crawled upon the ground, and fastened on the calves of the men.
Even we in our boots were not spared. Although their puncture
was not painful, it often caused a wound to spread round the
place.

On the 30th (October) we reached at nightfall another con-
fluence of two torrents. One was the Dublu, the other was
the Neydu or Telo — the great river of which we had heard
so much, its silent tide and tranquil depth! " Voces non c/aniant,'*
as the poetic Joseph rendered it.

It was a wretched disappointment. Instead of level fields,
hills and impenetrable forest as before ; instead of houses, crags
as savage as any in the valley of the Kiou-kiang. We did not
feel in the least moved to join in the songs of our men.
Nevertheless, the lengthy stage of the day had gained us ground,
and here the proverb " Time is money " was fast becoming " Time
is life."

We had attained one of the principal feeders of the Irawadi.

Like the Kiou-kiang, it did not come from far, but it brought

a considerable body of water, and it is the great number of

these large tributaries that accounts for a river of the size of

the Irawadi in Burmah.

T 289

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

We were shaken out of sleep on the 31st (October) by an
appalling crash. One of our men thinking to make a speedy
and unusually safe bridge, had felled an immense tree on the
opposite side, which came near to crushing the whole encamp-
ment in its fall. Much more effectual was the work of the
Kioutses : planting bamboos two by two X-wise in the river-
bed, and hanging on to the farthest by their toes, in a very
short time they had a line of trestles across and a light
causeway laid. The skill of these savages was marvellous ; I
question if civilised engineers with the same lack of imple-
ments would in two hours have thrown a bridge o\'er a torrent
at least 32 yards wide. The Dublu crossed, we proceeded up
the left bank of the big river.

Thanks to the exertions of our forerunner Seran-Sell, the
inhabitants of the vicinity here met us with some food, for which
barter was the only form of purchase. Anio proved himself
irresistible in the role of pedlar, would tap the vendors on the
shoulder, make them laugh, and descant on the beauty of the
coveted trinkets. It was the women who showed the greatest
avariciousness. They seemed more independent than in most
parts of Thibet, and on an equal footing with their husbands.
Most of them were small and ugly, though the tattooing else-
where prevalent was represented only by a blue mark on the
lower lip. We took advantage of the general satisfaction to beg
a fill for our pipes. I could not helj^ laughing at being reduced
to mendicancy from savages, with a fair prospect of sinking to
yet lower straits.

On the 1st (November) the offer of my spoon secured us
the services of a competent guide, under whose direction we at
once transferred ourselves to the other (right) side of the river

290

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

on rudely improvised bamboo rafts ; the water was quiet, deep,
and of a grey-blue colour. Our passage disturbed a number of
otters on the brink, who dived before we could o-et a shot at
them. For the two succeeding days we climbed a steep and
rugged track, catching sight through openings in the woods of
an amphitheatre of snow-covered mountains. In the west a
high white range running north-east and south-west was
identified by us as the alps of Dzayul, on the other side of
which lies the basin of the Upper Brahmaputra in Thibet. From
our camp at the close of 3rd November nothing could be seen
on all sides but mountains and valleys.

The 4th (November) furnished us with novelty in the
manner of routes in this part of the world. Most of our old
feats were duly called into play, but with the addition of being
e.xercised in the actual torrent. We had camped overnight on
its edge, and at starting crossed and recrossed it half a dozen
times : ultimately we settled down to ascend it without
divergence. It was the simplest plan. All the same, it was
as painful as anything we had done. Our own men with their
loads struggled bravely against the current, which was suffi-
ciently heavy to require a strong stake to steady each step.
The naked natives found the waterway admirably suited to
their agility. Being barefooted, both had some advantage
over us in our boots amoncr the rollin'^>' stones. Stumbling,
slipping, plunging, our ears ceaselessly deafened by the relent-
less roar of the descending water, we staggered blindly forward
all day with barked shins and broken knees in the urgency to
make headway. For we had only one day's supplies left. It
was emphatically a case of gaining our bread by the sweat of

our brow. In the evening the Kioutses caught some welcome

291

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

fish by an ingenious artifice. A small backwater in which
quantities of spindrift had collected was barred, the pith of a
plant was picked like oakum and cast into the pool, and the
fish entangled in the mixture of foam and fibre were taken by
hand and net. To their own menu the Kioutses added a
mess of boiled fern leaves. Our faithful fellows bore their
privations most unselfishly ; they had already been on half
rations — two porringers of rice swollen with water per man ; but
they were only concerned to lessen my anxiety, and sustained
the greatest appearance of cheerfulness. To fill up the measure
of this distressing day, we had to deplore the death of " Diamai."
For some time the poor beast had followed with difficulty,
famished for lack of the meat which we could no longer procure.
After vain efforts to contend against the stream, which kept
sweeping his lean carcass back, he gave up, and lay down to
die under a bush. I reproached myself for having taken him
away from his pastures and snow. He was the second dog of
the breed which I had lost ; they seem unable to exist far from
the icy cold and rocks of the uplands of Thibet.

5th (November). — We had to get somewhere. We had nothing
left to put between our teeth. So into the torrent we stiffly
lowered ourselves aoain and bent to the collar. Rain from

o

above was soon added to the water below, and we enjoyed a double
bath. The stream was wider and less swift than before, more
like a water alley through the midst of the deep forest, where
unbroken gloom lent solemnity to the scene. After many
orrievous hours of toil, it was with feelings of reviving cheer
that we issued from this oppressive confinement to raft over a
broad reach, and committed ourselves to firmer ground. And
when at last we extricated ourselves from the tangled woods,

292

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

we hailed with joy once more the sight of hill cultivation and
the straggling houses of the hamlet of Duma, in one of which
we were not slow to seek shelter, and to disembarrass ourselves
of the wet garments and the leeches that adhered to our limbs.

The Kioutses at Uuma
seemed a finer set of men
than those hitherto met. In
proportion as we advanced
west we found them more
civihsed. On the borders
of the Telo, instead of loin
cloths they wore drawers ;
and here one saw cotton
stuffs and large straw hats
with a small cone of the Bur-
mese shape. The women
also were no longer tattooed.
The same indifference to
cleanliness and tillage
marked their dwellings and
their fields. Nor did they
evince any apprehension of
discord arising from inter-
course with men of other
villages. Their e.xtreme
isolation probably makes for peace. They allowed themselves
to be freely interrogated, and gave us copious if indefinite infor-
mation as to our route. They said that about Apon,' — of which

1 We discovered that .\pon simply signified in Lissou, Pais (Thais). When, there-
fore, they spoke of Apon they meant "the region inhabited by the Thais."

A Kioutse of Duma.

FROM TOx\KIN TO INDIA

we had heard so many incoherent stories, — we should come to a
plain called Moam, which we must traverse, and that we should find
rice-fields and elephants. Our Thibetans on learning this testified
much interest, imitating a trumpet with their arms : they had heard
of such beasts in their legends, but had never seen one.

An old man 1 conversed with declared the Kioutses, Loutses,
Lissous, and Chinese to be sprung from the same stock.
This branch of the Kioutses at Duma styled themselves
Reouans. They had been driven westward successively from
the Salwen and the Telo by the Lissous of Kioui. Even now
it was a Lissou delegate from the chief of Kioui who collected
the impost, one tsien per family ; thence it went to the chief
of Ditchi, who in his turn passed it on to the prefect of Likiang.
Filtering through so many hands, I wonder how much of it ever
reaches the latter. To my inquiry why they paid, they replied
that though some families evaded the tax they feared the power
of the Lissous. It was indicative of the reputation for ferocity
enjoyed by the riparian Lissous, that, already established in
the east and south-east, it should also be recognised so far west
of the Salwen as this.

Negotiations for food and bearers were carried on more easily

here. Money by weight and the rupee were known ; and with

a wholesome addition to our diet of smoked fish, we were able

to proceed on the 7th (November) after a halt of a single day.

We forded a broad and shallow river, the Reunnam ; and it was

hard to believe ourselves at the base of the lofty mountain

chains of Thibet ; the long file of porters amid the tropical

plants heightened the impression that we must be in equatorial

Africa. The appearance of our column as it wound snake-like

to the river's margin was original. The Kioutses led the way,

294

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

cross-bow or wooden lance in hand, with here and there a big
straw hat. Fine men they were, tall and with expressive faces,
ingenious, but industrious only to the bare limit of their need.
Leading a life of perfect freedom, they preferred not to engage
in traffic with other folk, which might in the end lead to a loss
of individuality and liberty. They reminded me of the fable
of the wolf and the dog. The Kioutses have chosen the part
of the wolf, and are very likely right.

A diversified woodland march ended for the day in a real
village. Five houses, each 90 feet long, placed parallel to
one another, testified with the barking of dogs and grunting
of pigs to an approach to comparative civilisation. We cele-
brated the event in a cup of rice wine with an old greybeard in
silver bangles, and repressed the grimace which the insipid
stuff evoked. The two ensuing days afforded little of incident.
The marching, although somewhat easier, tired the men from
its monotony, and we had to invigorate them with the incentive
of Moam and all its prospective joys.

On the loth (November), after being disturbed early by the

cries of invisible troops of monkeys that infested the woods, we

performed a long and toilsome stage, a great part of which was in

a watercourse. But at its close we debouched upon a fine sandy

beach, ideal camping ground, by the shores of a considerable

river, the Nam Tsam. The stream was 40 yards in width,

and expanded into a small lake at the foot of a sounding cataract.

Here, deluded by a curious appearance on the surface of the

water, we one and all delivered ourselves to fishing. Hut as

the fish, if fish they were, remained indifferent to baited lines,

stone-throw^ing, or Sao's ineffectual gun, we had to fall back on

our usual supper of rice and water.

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FROM TOXKIN TO INDIA

The next day, the iith (November), we pursued a rough track
up the left bank of the Nam Tsam, again at risk of neck and
hmb, and towards eveninof arrived at a kiroe fish-dam. Tree
trunks and bamboos were lashed together two and two between
the rocks in mid -stream, and from this barrier depended
a valance of trellis embedded in pebble heaps in the water.
From the centre of the weir a channel staked by bamboos
extended down stream, and at its extremity the apparatus
for catching the fish was set at night. We profited by the
bridge thus offered to cross the river, but it took us half an
hour to effect a passage sitting astride the narrow causeway
and working ourselves along by our hands. The owners of the
dam, whom we found under a leafy hut on the other side, exhibited
new traits ; their features small, almost effeminate, eyes pro-
minent, forehead convex, mouth projecting, and complexion olive-
coloured. They wore a white turban which half hid their hair-
knot. Although they called themselves Kioutses, they showed
more affinity to the new races we were nearing in the iNIoam
district. The material of their vesture, no less than their red
and blue leather wallets and copper pipes, undoubtedly came
from there. Their huts, too, were of a novel shape, like cradles
set on end.

These fishermen gave us a good reception and some directions.
They reckoned the number of days upon their hands ; four by an
open hand with thumb shut to palm, five by joining the finger tips.
We all excited their astonishment ; but Sao puzzled them most,
because his mode of coiffure resembled their own.

Signs were not lacking now of an approach to a hotter climate.

A tiger paid us a nocturnal visit ; at another time our march was

harassed by most malevolent wasps ; and one morning we were

298

■^^

^S'

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

interested by a long flight of white butterflies in line, which dipped
and hovered with marshalled regularity on their course. I thought
of the Burmese belief that they are the souls of human beings dead
or asleep. If the latter, they would be able to take back with them
a strange dream, — of a forsaken country ; of three Europeans toiling
painfully with many falls along a torrent bed enclosed in dim
forests ; at the head of a small band of men clad in grey blouses to
their knees, with loads on their backs, yet still from time to time
breaking into song ; followed by a set of half-naked savages adorned
with large black wigs, some with foreheads pressed hard against
the strap that sustained the burden on their necks, and others
moving free. Or would the vision be to them but that of pur-
gatory,— of hapless ones condemned to unrespited struggles through
misery to paradise afar ?

Mountain rice culture besan to be visible in clearinsfs of the
woods, and felled trees laid horizontally here and there assisted the
path ; elsewhere, trunks left standing served as miradors above
small granaries like bee-hives upon posts. As we drew near to
habitations averting emblems reappeared, and we noted a fenced
elliptical tomb on which were deposited an earthen vessel, a tube,
and some calcined bones. The last suggested the possibility of
cremation among the Kioutses of this district. A sword in its
sheath hung upon a post, but the weapon was of wood. Examining
the representation of articles of which the deceased might have
need, I called to mind the graves of South America and ancient
Egypt, where are found figures of slaves intended for the service of
the departed. These taphic observances could not but attest the
resemblance, sundered by many thousands of miles and years,
between those of the people of the Pharaohs, the Redskins in

America, and these savages of the Irawadi.

301

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Two days which we passed at Pandam sufficed to partially
revictual the column, but our stock of salt was exhausted, and we
could by no means replenish it nor find an efficient substitute in
the pepper or grated ginger of the natives. The circumstance led
to a discussion among us as to which was the greater privation,
want of salt or tobacco ; and on a division I was in the minority

Idiot Woman.

in favour of the latter. Throughout our stay in this village we
were on the best of terms with the inhabitants, self-styled Lanouans,
but hardly differing from other Kioutse branches. As ill luck
would have it, a man was absent who might have served us as an
interpreter in the Moam plain, where they declared no one com-
prehended Kioutse.

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

From Pandam, which we left on the 15th (November), to
Melekeu the route was good, on easy gradients, and well cleared
of brushwood. Except for a slight personal touch of fever, we all
felt light-heeled by contrast with our late crawl. Melekeu was
composed of pile houses sometimes 130 feet long, not unlike the
Moi dwellings in Annam. The families were separated by bamboo
partitions, with a passage of communication. Each compartment
was arranged alike — a square hearthstone in the centre, round
which the inmates slept ; abov^e it a platform supporting a loft, and
a sloping roof about 16 feet high, which projected several feet in
front over a little terrace, where stood the pestle for husking rice.
Round the piles ran a trellis to keep in the pigs. Melekeu was
set in an attractive semicircle of gently retiring hills partly covered
with yellow rice clearings : a few large trees, survivors of the
primeval forest, dotted the slopes ; in the distance the level sunshine
smote the line of woods like the head of a repulsed column in every
variety of light and shade.

We already had a foretaste of the Moamites (to coin a word) in
two copper-coloured men who had joined our party. There was no
doubt about their personality ; their cotton garments and turban over
the hair-knot bespoke them Thais. They had come from seeking
lead in the mountains, and had with them some Kioutses to carry it.

So the plain of Moam is really peopled by the Thais, members
of that numerous race which stretches from the Canton River to
Assam, while it extends south to the INIalay Peninsula. An
intelligent, easy-going folk, possessing artistic tastes and a mature
caligraphy which in its diffusion has infected the greater part of
Indo-China. The two above-mentioned representatives observing
us making notes, took a piece of charcoal to show that they also
knew how to write.

303

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Among our informants was one who said that from Moam it
was a sixteen days' journey to Atsara (the Thibetan name for
Assam), where there was a big river, and on it boats with houses
that went like the wind. Clearly there was a road from Moam into
Assam, and we already saw ourselves navigating the Brahmaputra.

The allurement of all the delights awaiting us in Moam led us
to set out from M^lekeu on the i6th (November), notwithstanding
that Briffaud was lame from a bamboo splinter. Our gaping boots,
scarce held together by many a strip of hide, no longer saved our
feet. In our impatience for a horizon we made the best of our
hobbling speed towards the summit of a col, in view since the
preceding night. It was but 5,200 feet ; but every step was a slip,
each leaf a shower-bath, while overhead the monkeys greeted our
efforts with ceaseless mockery. There before us it lay at length ;
still far away, but revealed. A wide expanse of apparent inundation
enveloping lagoons of land ; but what to our eyes seemed swamps
were no doubt paddy-fields. Upon its farther verge rose folded
hills to the ridgre of the frontier chain of Assam. What mattered
it to us then that fresh snow powdered the distant crests ? The
plain for which we longed lay between us and them.

We pushed on, leaving the main body of our carriers to follow.
At four o'clock in the afternoon we discerned the blue smoke of
a habitation, and presently became aware of a noisy gathering
under a shed. Chattering, laughing, and gesticulating all at once,
a band of almost naked men, women, and children were pressing
round a large cauldron. We had lighted upon a Kioutse harvest
fete in propitiation of the mountain deity, to whose satisfaction, and
their own, copious libation of rice wine was being made. Every-
one was merry, most were tipsy. Old men babbled, women play-
fully pushed each other, a child harangued an aged individual, most

304

TSEKOU TO KHAMTI

probably its great-grandmother; and on all sides rose a babel of songs
and jovial mirth. Yet withal there was nothing brutal in this extra-
ordinary bacchanalian orgy ; perfect cordiality reigned throughout.

Imagine the effect on this crew of the sudden apparition of eight
fisfures, strang-e of feature and in divers garbs, armed and un-
announced, dropping from the mountain into their very midst.

Their moment of stupefaction was a short one. Hospitality
was evidently in the ascendant. Drink was offered to us, and we
were given to understand by signs that they would accompany us
to the village. So, under this novel escort, none too steady on
their legs, surrounded by a medley of lances, swords, and bamboos,
and a hubbub of strange cries, we made a triumphal entry into Delou.

Here we were able to buy rice, fowls, and potatoes ; and after
passing a somewhat broken night owing to Sao's setting fire to the
bamboo screen, and to minor disturbing visitants, we resumed our
descent on the i 7th (November) at a more deliberate pace. Our next
camping ground happened to be on the borders of a tobacco field.
The morning light shone upon bare stalks: our men were the locusts.
Finding this godsend, they had thanked Providence and fallen to.

We discoursed with the two men of Moam, previously
mentioned, in tagrs of all the dialects at our command, and learned
from them that the country known to the Kioutses by the name of
Moam was called Khamti, with a capital named Khamtidon, and
they proposed to precede us and announce our coming to the king.

We conjectured that these two Thais were deputies of the chiet
of Khamti, and that the supremacy of the latter embraced the
Kioutses of this district, since they were at free quarters in the
villages which they entered, and requisitioned carriers with the
tone of authority. The lead which the)^ were convoying was in
small pigs like those sold at Luang-Prabang, and similar, both
u 305

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

in shape and size, to wliat are still found in the mines of Laurium,
the product of bygone Greek industry ; — another strange instance
of conformity between an ancient people of advanced civilisation
and a savage one of to-day.

On the 1 8th (November) we stepped out freely along a shady,
sloping path, in which the hoof marks of buffalo became
increasingly frequent, and just as day was declining emerged all
at once upon a rolling sward of close-cropped grass. With cries
of astonishment, " Allais ! Allais ! " our men broke away, and
raced each other with their loads towards the camping ground.

The cause of their boyish glee, — what they imprisoned in the
deep and narrow gorges of the Kiou-kiang had never in their
lives beheld, — what we ourselves had well-nigh forgotten for five
months in those pent-up valleys, — was — the level plain !

I'assing the Torrent of the Kiou-kiang.

;o6

CHAPTER VIII

KHAMTI TO INDIA

Enter the Plain of Khamti — Blackmailing at Tsaukan — Passage of the Nam-Kiou —
Khamti (Padao) — Interviews with the King's Son ; with the King — English Influence
— Account of the Khamti Thais — Pagodas — Panlian — Carrier Difficulties — Departure
-Again in the Mountains— Vexatious Delays — Desertion of Porters — Critical
Position — Fever — Three Columns— Roux falls in Rear — Pass to India — Death of
an old Christian — Short Commons — Two more Men left behind — We abandon
Tent and Baggage — Hunger — First Village — Mishmis — Revictualling the Stragglers
— Singphos^The Way Lost — Plain of Assam— Bishi ; Good Treatment — Details
concerning Village — Roux Rejoins — Easy Progress — Elephants — Reception by a
Singpho Chief — The Brahmaputra — Sadiya — Cordial Welcome from the English
Agent — Position at Sadiya ; Native Population — Tea Plantations — Method of Work
— En route for Calcutta — Descent of the Brahmaputra — Historical Reflections on
India ; Dupleix.

After a bath in the river we stretched ourselves on the grass in
the open, and watched a magnificent sunset. It was good thus to
lie beneath the wide arc of heaven after being so long restricted
in our surroundincrs.

Whilst preparing for our evening meal, our ears were saluted
in the distance by a prolonged note, which, as it rose and fell in
its approach, was presently distinguished as proceeding from a
melancholy gong. A small band of about fourteen Pais then
came in sight, winding in Indian file towards our camp. At
their head we recognised one of the deputies who had given
us their company on the road. When opposite to us they
stopped, gravely saluted in a quasi-military fashion, pronounced

307

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

the word " Salaam," and squatted. Two of them carried muzzle-
loaders.

As we had no clue to their intentions, it gave us satisfaction to
observe the quiet promptness with which our men carried out
our instructions, given previous to entering the Pai country. The
packs were withdrawn, the tent closed, and our people grouped in
rear. A quaint scene ensued. We three seated at a table behind
a guttering candle, facing this solemn deputation, proceeded to
conduct a colloquy, of which, I imagine, not a sixth part reached
either party in intelligible form, — from us to Joseph, Joseph to
.Seran-Seli, Seran-Seli to a Kioutse with a few words of Lissou,
the latter to a Pai with fewer of Kioutse, and from this last to the
expectant group. Out of this chain of evidence we gathered that
the chief of Khamti had received a letter from the south with
threats of war. Had we any connection with this missive ? The
Pai, who constituted himself spokesman, addressed his remarks in
so loud a tone that Joseph took exception, and concluded that he
lied. In return, we assured them we were peaceably inclined, and
anxious to expound our views at greater length to their great
chiefs ; after which they took their departure as they had come, to
the lessening vibrations of the gong.

Next day (19th November) we had not gone far before we

perceived a thatched village, from which issued a number of

inhabitants, who motioned us to stop. They had with them a

bamboo tube enclosing two rolls of paper, one of which contained

some writing in Pai or Burmese characters, signed in English as

far as could be deciphered: '" Eniile . . . Art . . .," with a seal

below it, " Seal of the Court of the Depiit . . . Bha . . . " ; the

rest was effaced. This letter found here was curious, but it did

not concern us, as we endeavoured to convey to the people. A few

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KHA.MTI TO INDIA

steps farther, and again we were stopped. Through the same
medium as before, some notables intimated that we must make
a present to the village. This procedure did not commend itself to
us as at all a desirable precedent to establish. On the other hand,
to use force when we did not know our way, had a river to cross,
and with the ever- recurring difficulty of food, to say nothing ot the
presence in our column of local porters on whom we could not rely,
seemed an unwise alternative. Their tone now became more
menacing ; it was a custom, they said, that other Europeans, none
of whom had come from the East, had observed, and unless we
conformed to it we could not pass. In this dilemma we offered
them five rupees. They indignantly refused, and laid our modest
ransom at a hundred rupees. This was too much ; we made a
signal to our men to fall in, and began to get out our guns, with
obvious other intent than as gifts. Upon this they held a further
conference with some pretended chief in the village, and ended by
accepting" ten rupees. Such was our first contact with the folk ol
Moam — a set of rapacious blackmailers, to whom nothing but
prudential considerations for the success of our journey allowed us
to yield.

The females in the crowd here were so far feminine, and
unlike those of the Kioutses, as to recall to us that heaven created
woman for a companion to man. They were tall, wearing a dark
blue skirt, a light open jacket of the same colour, and a white
girdle. Their hair was in a knot, and drawn into a glossy black
coil, on the left side of which several fastened coquettish glass
spangles that glittered in the sun. Most had rings in their ears,
sometimes of amber. I saw a child here, playing with a wooden
top, just as at home.

We passed through the village, Tsaukan, and at once found

309

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

ourselves on the borders of the river. This was the Nam-Kiou,
or Meli-remai of the Kioutses, the western branch of the Irawadi.
It was about i6o yards in width and 12 feet deep ; water clear and
sluggish. We crossed without delay in five or six pirogues, and
saw grounds for the arrogance of the natives in the ease with
which they could have prevented our passage. A series of streams
succeeded at close intervals : the rejrion seemed a veritable

On the Xam-Kio

cullender for Indo-China. Some we forded, others we passed
in dug-outs. Their gliding currents mingled or diverged
without visible cause in this flat delta-like country ; in marked
contrast to the riotous torrents we had so lately left. They
cannot come from far, as the chain of the Dzayul Mountains
running south-west bounds them to the north of the plain of

Moam.

.^10

KHAiMTI TO INDIA

As far as the eye could reach stretched rice-fields, yellow as
the plains of Lombardy. A splendid territory, fertile in soil and
abundant in water, where tropical and temperate culture flourish
side by side, and the inhabitants are protected on three fronts by
mountains. That they were fairly opulent was to be assumed
from the silver bracelets of the children and the small Indian
coins used as buttons. Indeed, nothing would appear to be lack-
ing to the happiness of the people of Khamti. Only beware,
you light-hearted folk, you are perilously close to the British
leopard. His appetite is enormous : sooner or later, be it from
the mountains of Assam, or from the South, he will place his
paw upon you and bring you under his "dominion." There is
no escape for you, ruler ot Khamti ! King Theebaw's lot awaits
you unless you humbly give in jour allegiance to the Empire of
India. If you do this, you may perhaps retain your title, pleasures,
and a shadow of authority ; you will receive presents and become
as one of the hired servants ; but, — dare to lift your head, and
you will be smashed like a vase of which the pieces are thrown
away and never spoken of again.

We approached the capital, which, save for slightly larger
dimensions and a higher stockade, was not distinguishable from
other villages. They led us direct to a small pavilion outside,
like a music kiosk, clean and well built. Four columns sup-
ported a demi-cone-shaped roof ot rice-straw thatch. Round the
cornice were panels painted on a white ground to represent
seated Buddhas with a flame upon their heads, cars drawn b}' red
horses, and devadas dancing. These were like what one had met
with at Laos, onlv rougher. Without the fence that surrounded
this building long bannerols fluttered from bamboo poles. For
ourselves we could have preferred better board and worse lodg-

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

ing, as the inhabitants only replied to our hungry pantomime by
signs that we should wait.

At the end of some time three personages presented them-
selves. The central one was indicated as the chief. He was a
man of some stature and an intelligent face, wearing a white
turban, flannel trousers in coloured stripes like a clown, a small
rose silk vest, and an old patched pair of European shoes. His
confederate had a white vest like the Laos, and a shrewd quick
eye that recalled certain Siamese types. Until our interpreting
links were all collected we sat staring at each other like china
dogs. Then the story of the threatening letter from Bhamo was
repeated to us, and we were asked to explain our movements.
This we did as well as we could by means of a map, and with assur-
ances that we had not been in Burmah. Already the talk began
to turn upon presents ; so as our translators were now tired
we postponed any further discussion till the morrow. On
leaving, these officials graciously gave instructions that provisions
should be sold to us. We quickly realised that prices were
to run high : two rupees for ne.xt to nothing ; and I saw a
man refuse a quarter rupee for a bit of dead wood for Nam's
fire.

The early mist lifted next morning and disclosed to us the
white summits of the Dzayul Mountains. We despatched the
gifts we had prepared by the hands of Joseph and Sao ; but they
returned without effecting their purpose, and with the information
that the gentleman we had seen on the previous day was only
the kine's son : the kino-, his father, would not rise before mid-
day. Throughout the forenoon a peeping crowd pressed round
our fence, and we felt rather like the exhibits in the Jardin
d'Acclimatation, to whom visitors poke cigarettes and small coins ;

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KHAMTI TO INDIA

only with this difference, here our patrons seemed much more
inclined to take than give.

Yesterday's magnates having returned, we displayed our pre-
sents. They regarded them without moving an eyelid, and did
not offer to touch them. We were given to understand that
donations were expected by the king (who desired a repeating
rifle), by the king's son, and lastly by the people. This was
Tsaukan over again. Much as one liked being agreeable to
chiefs who were asfreeable in their turn, it was a trifle irritatincj
to have one's benefactions dictated to one. However, we dis-
sembled our feelings. The minister, somewhat humanised by our
promises, told us he had been several times to Calcutta and
Mandalay, and vouchsafed some information regarding the route.

In the afternoon we — and our gifts — were conducted through
the capital to be presented at court.

The outskirts of the town were occupied by fenced rect-
angular gardens, in which chiefly women were hoeing ; the soil
looked extremely rich and well tended. Between them and the
village were rows of small bamboo rice granaries on piles about
3 feet from the ground. Passing them we came to the
enceinte, which consisted of a stockade made of wattled bamboos
12 feet high, supported on the inner face by an embankment.
This palisade was armed at one-third and again at two-thirds
of its height by projecting sharpened stakes like chevatix de /rises.
It was pierced by narrow entrances closed by a gate formed in
most cases of a single solid baulk of timber.

Once inside, tlie detached houses did not admit of streets ;
but in all directions ran narrow plank causeways a toot or so
from the earth, necessary in the rains. The roofs were thatched
and sloping, with a conical excrescence at either end, and in the

315

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

centre a small wable like a bonnet, that allowed light to enter
and smoke to escape. At one extremity of the building was an
open platform under the eaves, which admitted more light hori-
zontally. Each dwelling ran from 80 to 130 feet in length, and
was erected on piles which formed commodious pens underneath
for the live stock. The whole village was arranged on a system
of parallels. From one point of view, with screens hiding the
foundation posts, the place seemed a conglomeration of circular
huts or big molehills as one sees in Africa. With their thiitch
they gave me the illusion at a distance of some herd of hairy
mammoths, arrested in their course by a sudden paralysis of
nature.

The palace dominated the rest of the village, and was sur-
rounded by small gardens within a paling. Save in point of
size, it was very similar to the other domiciles, but had a second
roof with two dragons carved in wood at the corners. We were
ushered into a spacious hall beside the terrace. Tall wooden
columns 27 feet high ran up to the roof, and the chamber was
shut off from the rest of the house by a bamboo partition, on
which were hung black Hindu bucklers studded with gold, and
some lances. The beams were decorated with figures of tigers
and monkeys painted red, and on the lower parts of the pillars
were fastened horns of animals draped with strips of calico of
bright hues. In rear of this fringe stood the royal throne. It
was made of a long chest, on the front panel of which was
depicted a cavalcade of gods or warriors mounted on strange
beasts, evidently of Hindu design. On either side of its base
twin serpents reared their heads slightly in advance of a grotesque
squatting wooden effigy, in whose hands were a sword and a lance.

Behind, a trophy of tiint- and match-locks was arranged.

316

KHAMTI TO INDIA

Upon the throne a little wrinkled beardless old man was
seated. He had on a white vest and a " langouti " (species
of kilt) of mauve silk ; a pillow and tobacco jar were beside
him, and a spittoon and a long pipe at his feet. Before
him were planted two gilded umbrellas. The whole was the
monarch.

We were invited to seat ourselves on the floor in front of his
majesty, with his majesty's son upon our right, and a group of
five or six old men who had the air of councillors or notables of
the place. The rest of the hall was filled with an audience of
attendants and general rabble, in the backo^round of which
appeared the top-knots of several women, while some of our
Thibetans gazed on the scene with open-mouthed wonder. Apart
from the pomp of the reception, I was struck with the familiarity
of the people, who chatted with the members of the royal party
quite unconcernedly. It was not so in the Laos States. The
king's son addressed his sire in a long speech, in which we sup-
posed he was declaring who we were and whence we came. The
presents were then deposited in a tray before the throne. The
king rejoined by putting a few short questions to us directly
Who had shown us the way ? Did we come of our own will, or
were we sent by anyone ? At Tonkin, how were the children ?
the old men ? Were the people rich ? F'inally, he asked by what
route we desired to reach Assam.

The travelled minister had already taken our names as a
souvenir. The wary Joseph for his own part gave an alias,
alleging that he had found it a wise precaution when dealing
with a mandarin.

In the conversation, as was natural. Tonkin took chief place.
We did endeavour to explain that France was at a greater distance ;

3^7

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

but not being engaged to give a history or geography lecture to
the people of Khamti, and as we were chiefly concerned to gain
their furtherance for our departure, we refrained from puzzling
their Oriental brains. In the end the general impression left was,
I fancy, that M. Carnot and some generals in a picture I showed
were the principal men in Tonkin, and Napoleon in., whose head
was on the louis d'or I distributed, was its great chief A sign
of dismissal being given, we withdrew with much pleasure. We
had had about enough of social amenities for one day.

Under the palace we observed some men at work forging
sword-blades ; the fire was in a sunk trench, and for bellows a
man seated on a trestle worked two pistons in bamboo tubes
pump-wise. We had fondly hoped for some amelioration of our
diet on comine to Moam. So far we had not succeeded. When
we asked for victuals they replied by telling us to slay here three
days longer, and not to bother about porters — an invitation cap-
able of more than one interpretation. As we returned to our
camp we met an elephant which belonged to the king. Our
men were highly amused at their first meeting with such an
animal. It came from Assam. Ikit notwithstanding this and
other surprises, they were quite ready to quit Khamti, where
their reception had not equalled expectation. Seran-Seli de-
livered himself of his astonishment that the king, who reminded
him of an old monkey, should have been perched on a seat while
we were on the floor ; and as for Nam. he regarded all the in-
habitants as pigs.

We turned our enforced delay to account by visiting the suburbs
and studying the population. There was a pagoda in a grove near
the village, wherein was placed a row of gilded Buddhas with
conical head-dress, and some smaller ones of marble, painted or

-,i8

KHAMTI TO INDIA

gilded as in India. Flags bearing Buddhist subjects and Thai'
inscriptions hung from the ceiling, but we saw nothing unusual,
artistic, or finely sculptured as in Laos. Some tablets of black
wood served as boards, which were written on with a white
substance obtained from the bamboo, and the bonze showed me
a letter of recommendation from an Englishman, Mr. Gray, in
case the priest should wish to go to India.

In the course of the day following our audience we received
another visit from the king's son and his adviser. This time
they smiled upon us, and brought some tubes of bamboo filled
with molasses. The minister became sufficiently confidential to
produce the subjoined paper for our inspection. It was in English,
and ran thus : —

"This is a certificate that Hoe Daung, nephew of the Lak-
houm Saubroa of Pamkouti Khamti, came to Bhamo to pav
homage and respect in February '92. He was accompanied by
the Amdogyi of Lakhoum, named Baraugnan, as representing the
Lakhoum Saubroa. The Amdogyi and Hoe Daung were at
Mandalay and Rangoon. Xo promises were made them, save
that with regard to the claim set forth by Sankpakhou, the Lak-
houm Saubroa, to be chief Saubroa of Khamti/ such claim
should be the subject of inquiry and further consideration. By
this prompt visit, bearing the homage and presents of the Saubroa,
his nephew (in the place of the said Saubroa) has recognised
the supremacy of the Government, and has expressed his desire
to be a loyal subject, and this will be taken into account in future
dealings with him. His ierri/ory now forms part of the district

' This is ambiguous : the claim has been made in the course of a past visit . . .
query: an inquiry will be made in the course of our visit (future)?— AUTHOR.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

controlled by the Deputv-Commissioncr of Bliamo. and he has a
right to the protection and consideration of the Government.

" E. C. S. George,
" Deputy-Commissioner.
"Camp Mogau.m, 13/// March 1892."

This document confirmed our conjectures on first reaching the
plain. The chief of Khamti, finding most hkely his power shaken
by competitors, or for some other good reason, had found it
advisable to address his submission to England. He had sent
ambassadors to the Indian Government, and it was probably
following on this embassage that Mr. Gray was despatched to
explore and thoroughly investigate the country.

Here we have the inveterate method pursued by England : an
advance as sure as it is deliberate, and with no retrograde. The
rule of Britain spreads like a drop of oil by a sort of inexorable
law of nature and decree of destiny. Assam is one instance,
absorbed fifty years ago ; Upper Burmah is another, annexed
within the last ten. To-day these countries are conterminous ;
and, united under the English flag, are boring little by little up to
the very springs of the Irawadi. To the right of Khamti they
are stopped by the ranges of Thibet. They will not go farther
to the north-east, for two reasons, — the precipitous height of the
mountains, and the nakedness of the land. Where no profits are,
there is no English flag.

The minister told us also that steamers from Bhamo now went
as high as Mogaung. In this again I recognised the admirable
system of English colonisation. First conquer ; then follow up
unhesitatingly, working to turn to use what has been acquired, by
pushing trade, by establishing communications, and by allowing all

KHAMTI TO INDIA

without reservation and without delay to extract the benefits from
the fresh territory.

We inquired of our interlocutors as to their origin. They
said the people of Khamti had always dwelt there, under their
own name of Thais, like the Laotians. The mountain tribes to the
east, west, and north of Khamti were known by the general term
Khanungs. One portion of the plain was called Lakhoum, and
another, comprising about a dozen villages in the west, Manchi-
Khamti.

As at this point of the conversation we appeared to be on
such good terms with each other, we ventured to reopen the
subject of porters. In a moment our friends' faces were made
to exhibit blank amazement. To the watchword "porters" the
countersign was "presents." Everyone demanded something. We
perceived very clearly that short of actual molestation we had
fallen into a nest of brigands ; should we never shake off these
jackals ? A petty chief from Tsaukan put in for ten rupees ; we
refused, having already given him enough ; whereupon he laid
at our feet a sword-blade sent to us irom his people ; and when
that was also declined, said he could not take it back for very
shame, what would we offer i* — got rid of at five rupees. The
prime minister next claimed value for an ox ; — settled him, and
off" he went to confer with the king. The evening visits took
the form of emissaries, sent to urge their own, and to decry their
neighbours', merits. Altogether we received a lesson in dis-
crimination and diplomacy.

Although at other times there was no regular market, the

inhabitants preferring house-to-house exchange, one sprang up

towards the end of our stay round our kiosk, chiefly for the sale

of rice, vegetables, eggs, and potatoes. Salt was very scarce and
X 321

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

valued highly ; it was measured in small hand-scales against frag-
ments of pottery as weights. I saw also a sort of brown wick
like that for lamps, which, soaked in opium, was used in the
preparation of a drink. Amber from the south was pretty plenti-
ful, and I was shown a bit of rough jasper and some garnets like
those in the Himalayas.

In the people themselves we recognised the Laotian type,
which is not a strongly marked one. They had straight-set
rather wide-open eyes with slightly puckered lids, broad nose,
arch of eyebrow and frontal bones prominent, thick lips, and
olive complexion somewhat deeper than among the folk of Laos.
Most of the men were ugly ; but the younger females had pleasant
faces and sometimes fine eyes. As a whole, they were less in-
quisitive and annoying than a similar Chinese crowd, and did not
mind being dispersed. The costume of the men was the langouti,
and a garment passing under the left arm and fastened on the
right shoulder. Nearly all carried the short sword across the
breast, Kioutse fashion ; these had finely tempered blades and a
good balance. A rather coarse thread stuff, with a red or blue
pattern on a light ground, is made in Khamti itself, and calico
prints are seen equally with vests of Thibetan poulou. The
women invariably wore a blue cotton skirt, rather long and fitted
to the figure. Their bosoms were not exposed as in Laos, and
they no longer bathed openly in the river like their sisters of the
south-east. Their carriage was erect and graceful, with short
steps. Both sexes smoked pipes, bamboo-root with silver mounts,
or a lone cig-arette made of the leaf of a tree. Other charac-
teristics in common were the wide-brimmed, cone-crowned Burmese
straw hat, and the ear-rings either of amber, bamboo, or even
leaves. Except in the case of two or three chiefs who had

322

KHAMTI TO INDIA

English shoes, everyone went barefoot. The plain folk do Httle
carrying ; when they do, they make use of a long bamboo balanced
on the shoulder with a basket at either end.

Much of our information was derived from the minister, who,
when we got him alone and with the insinuation of a special
bribe if carriers were forthcoming, displayed no lack of intelligence
and a really remarkable memory, by which he described the
routes of departure from Khamti,^ and reeled off almost without
check each day's stage for a month's march. On this occasion
also we dispensed with our cumbrous method of intercourse, and
got along quite as fast by a speedily established dumb-show. In
the course of our talk we learned that the Singphos and the
Kachins are one and the same, the first being the Thai appella-
tion and the second the Burmese. This people, who extend south
of Khamti, were described as at this very time in active warfare
with the English.

A petty chief from a village to the west paid us a visit, and
he too possessed a certificate from Mr. Gray. Plenty of folk
hereabout expressed a desire to go to India. If the route is
improved, frequent communication between it and Khamti will
probably ere long be established.

The announcement — naturally not made without fresh gratuitv
— of twelve porters recruited for us in the mountains, made us
anxious to prove the minister's itinerary without delay. From
Khamti to Bishi, the first village in Assam, was said to be
only nine days' march, but without intermediate settlements.
To be on the safe side, we laid in supplies for eleven days.

' There are three routes to Assam : one to the south by the source of the river
Dapha ; a second by that of the river Dihing ; and a third to the north by the .Mishmis.
The first of these only has been followed : by Colonel Woodthorpe in 1S75 (1S85 ?) and by
Mr. Gray in 1893.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

The minister now requested a written testimonial in return for
his trood offices. He cot it in the form of a notice, in French
and English, warning future travellers to beware of the rapacity
of the inhabitants of Khamti, chiefs and commons.

Our preparations were interrupted by the arrival of two horse-
men, mounted on broad-chested, short-necked tats, like those of
Annam. One of these gentry, dressed in a many - coloured
langouti, fo.\-skin vest, and white turban, proved to be a Gourka
of Nepaul, who had travelled by Darjeeling to Calcutta, and
thence to Ranooon, Moulmein, Mandalav, Bhamo, and Mooauna.
He spoke a few words of English, and confirmed the report of
fighting between the English and the Singphos. He described
how he himself, a merchant, had been made prisoner, bound, and
despoiled of three thousand rupees and three cases of goods, but
had made his escape minus everything. An offer which we
made him to accompany our party back to India was declined,
on the score of attempting the recovery ot his lost effects. His
presence added an entirely fresh and unexpected type of Asiatic
to the motley gathering round our kiosk.

We had fixed our start for the 24th (November). The
morning came, but no porters. Seran-Seli, sent to beat them
up, raises three ; the rest reported coming. Reappearance of king's
son and minister — just to see us off, and to beg a case lor the
former's Winchester, which we gave rather as one does a bone
to a dog. Another hour — still five carriers short. King's son
issues orders to find them. This not producing the smallest
effect, " Pessimus," as Joseph dubbed the avaricious Pai' inter-
preter, sallies in quest; and — 2 p.m. — returns — unaccompanied,
to say that they were certainly there overnight, but have fled.
Another day lost !

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KHAMTI TO INDIA

As one throws out everything from a balloon to lighten it,
so we decided upon a still further reduction of impedimenta ;
and, to this end, discarded the men's tents and as much else as
we possibly could. Our men themselves proposed each to carry
an additional share of the remainder, preferring increased individual
loads to staying longer in this place. They had now been more
than two months
on the road, and
were as anxious
to reach India as
ourselves.

We were satis-
fied with the look
of our CTuide, who
was a robust and
thick-set fellow,
with more of the
hillman than the
plain about him,
resembling the
Singphos rather
than the Pais, and
acquainted with
the dialect of the former. He was to accompany us as far as
Dibrugarh, where we hoped to reach the railway.

To fill the afternoon before our actual start, I paid a visit to
the village of Panlian. about three - quarters of a mile to the
south. In the pagoda here the bonzes had a large number of
puppies — a regular dogs' home. I was interested in a sugar-
cane press in the courtyard. Two posts, one vertical and the

>

/f-/

Poulanghing, our Guide lioni Khamti.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

other horizontal, each having cogs cut in their centre, bit on
each other, and crushed the cane as they revolved. A child
turned the mill, and fed it at the same time ; the juice running
down into a hollow below. Near the pagoda stood some

■■■'J^m '^

/V-^ /'','./' e-r ,

Religious Munuments ;it l'.-inlian.

religious monuments, in stone or hardened clay, covered with
white cement. Their shape was pyramidal, surmounted by a
sugar loaf, recalling the lotus knob, and dwindling above through
iron rings to a point. On their sides niches contained gilt or

!26

KHAMTI TO INDIA

white marble Buddhas, seated or recumbent. We wondered if
the Khamti worshippers knew of the existence of similar shrines
on the other side of the Dzayul Mountains to the north. Another
monument was in the form of a tapering pillar, with a tablet
as if for an inscription, beneath a gilt bird like a cock. The
scene as I lingered on the brink of a stream, and watched
the string of women and slow buffaloes moving homeward
through the shallow ford in the mellow sunlight, was a very
lovely and a lazy one, and suggested reflections on this fair region
of Khamti and its inhabitants, whose artistic and indolent natures
harmonised in their pose, their garments, their dwellings, and
their memorials. It is a beautiful country, where everything
seemed to be fitly wedded to its counterpart, under a clear sky
and vivifying sun ; I was tempted to apply the line —

O fortunaios nimium, sua si bona norint,
Thais ! . . .

25th (November). — Positively our last morning! and a last
request. The king's son, through " Pessimus," insinuated that
he would be glad of my boots. This time I could not oblige
him. He kept us company for some distance, and we parted
friends.

It was manifest that without the help of these people we
should have been hard put to it to continue our journey ; but
they set such an exorbitant price on their services, and showed
themselves so petty in their cupidity, begging up to the last
moment, that, despite their utility to our plans, they left on our
minds the unpleasant reminiscence of a pack of fawning parasites.
We could have wished — for their sakes, though not for ours —
to see them boldly oppose our advance, and demand a healthy

327

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

ransom. I would any day rather pass for a real brigand than
for a cozener.

We had started with what porters we could get togetner ; and
every one of our party was glad to be oft on this the final stage
of our way to India. The men marched briskly, and sang,
notwithstanding their heavy burdens, for throughout the first day
our direction lay across the plain. A few insignificant rivers
had to be waded, but the jungle, where it approached the paddy-
fields, was of no density. At intervals we passed religious
erections, in the shape of shrines, tombs, or posts about 5 feet
high, most of which were partially gilded, and shone handsomely
in the sun. From one villaq-e still came a demand for a emi,
but it sounded only as an echo of importunity, and was treated
with a shrug of the shoulders. As they continued to pester us,
Anio, the plain speaker, promised to slit their throats unless
they desisted ; and Fa, who harboured sanguinary notions,
graphically proposed to pluck out the thin hairs of their moustaches,
till their faces should be as bare as the outside of a copper pot.
So great a dislike had our men taken to the people of Khamti,
that their commonly expressed desire was to return with a
hundred well-armed men and terrorise them.

The 26th (November) saw us into the mountains; and now

the heavy loads began to tell. The first ridge was gained at

4,225 feet, where, at the village of Singleng, we met with a

hospitality from the wild hillmen which contrasted favourably

with that of the more civilised folk of the plain. But already

troubles were gathering on our horizon. To begin with, all

our carriers did not get up to the night's halting-place. Further,

we here learned that at least eighteen days would be wanted

to reach Assam, instead of the Khamti computation, which had

328

KHAMTI TO INDIA

evidently been based upon relay porters and light order. From
this, the extreme village, then, we were confronted with fifteen to
eighteen days' march through unpeopled mountains with tired
followers. And, as necessary preliminaries, we must lay in extra
rice, thereby increasing the loads, and invent reliefs to carry
them. It was a large mouthful to swallow, but we were in
for it.

On the 27th (November), as if in answer to our presenti-
ments, the early mist rolled back, and disclosed the mighty barrier
awaiting us. The sunrise effects upon its snowy topmost line and
among its peaks and chasms were superb. As morning advanced,
the belated porters came in by twos and threes, having slept
where night overtook them, without shelter, fire, or food. They
were quite discouraged. Ills rarely come singly, and we presently
discovered that three of the Kioutse carriers had decamped at
daylight. One result of this defection was the interruption of our
link of intercourse with our guide, which had henceforth to be
carried on by signs. The rest of the day was expended in
unremitting efforts to recruit our carriers from the villagers.
Fearing lest they should imagine they were being pressed for
corvee, I gave them to understand they would be well paid. I
need have been under no anxiety on this score; the Kioutses
were quite alive to our straits, and demanded five rupees per
man per diem, which terms we perforce conceded. As an
appropriate culmination to the day's adversities, several of our
own men went down with a bout of fever. I treated them with
quinine and kola.

Some of the people of this part smoked opium, though not in
the Chinese fashion. They cut up a bit of the sodden wick already
mentioned, and boiled it in a little water. Then chopping very

329

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

fine a leaf resembling plantain, and drying it, they steeped the
fibre in the opium decoction, and smoked it in a wooden hubble-
bubble.

On the 28th (November) more ballast was thrown out. We
jettisoned Briffaud's valise and the frame of his camp bed, Rou.x's
cloak, and the hammers, axes, and leather bags. It was imperative
that we should have sixteen days' rations, and our only chance was
to make forced marches under lighter loads. Even now, with
scarcity staring them in the face, I found it hard to stir our men
to a sense of the situation. Their indifference is constitutional.

Our first camp after leaving Singleng was three miles on, and
by the evening we had only accomplished half a stage. Fifteen
days' food left : our reflections were not rosy. Ever since our
arrival at Khamti, previously so longed for, we had had nothing
but vexations ; and now, when we thought our toils almost ended,
the greatest difficulties were in reality beginning. There was no
advantage in returning to Khamti ; a lengthened sojourn there,
or an attempt on another route under identical conditions, were
equally futile. It was not a question of luxury but of bare sub-
sistence, and it was annoying to feel that a slight lack of prevision
should jeopardise both our followers and ourselves.

The guide, who had been away trying to enlist porters, rejoined
on the 29th (November) with twelve men, and we moved off with-
out loss of time. Our march was a rough one, partly beside a
rushing grey - blue torrent, the Nam - Lang, crossed later in the
day at a quiet spot, and partly in the w"oods. Indeed it was a
repetition on a minor scale of the Kiou-kiang, not omitting the
leeches. Now and then in the more open spots we saw traces
of circular enclosures of crossed bamboo sticks, which may have
been, as was said, intended for protection against panthers or

330

KHAMTI TO INDIA

tigers ; if so, they were utterly inadequate for the purpose, and

we inclined to the belief that they were connected with some

religious superstition. When we bivouacked for the night, we

should have felt more satisfied with the day's work if fever had

not eot a firm hold on four of our men. Loureti, the voungrest

of the troop, was the worst case, and kept up with difficulty,

although the unselfish Anio took his pack as well as his own.

Their condition distressed us, as we could do little to alleviate

it beyond giving them flannel shirts and quinine. It is perhaps

needless to say that this and the days that followed proved the utter

fallaciousness of the information supplied us at Khamti. " Pessi-

mus " had assured us we should have no more torrent scrambles ;

we had little else. As for Hoe Daung, the minister, he had

told us that we could have no difficulty in finding the wa\-, as

there was no choice ; he might have added that, lor the most

part, there was no route to lose. Without the guide it must

have been impossible for us to guess it.

We ascended the valley of the Nam - Tsai, finding plentiful

signs of forest rangers in the spoor of antelope, tigers, and

rhinoceros. W'e had to thank the latter for many an enlarged

path and flattened bank. Poulanghing, the guide, e.\plained that

these are two-horned rhinos, and that their flesh is good. Their

prints were not so large as those which I had seen in Sundarbunds.

In this forest march we came to a clearing where was a muddy

spring, a likely lair for wild pig. In a large tree was built a

machan or small bamboo platform, whence a hunter could command

the descent of tiger or rhinoceros to drink.

Near our midday halt we had a stroke of luck in ihi- discovery

of two loads of rice placed under cover, no doubt by some folk

against their return from Assam. It was a godsend and a

1 1 -»

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

temptation ; we had thirteen days' food left, and the tjuide declared
there were fifteen stages at least before we could hope to reach
a village. We therefore did not hesitate, but took one basket,
and left some rupees in its place. During the day we passed
a crest of 6,175 feet. More evidence of tigers abounding; by
the site of our camp lay the scattered relics of some traveller,
said to have been eaten.

2nd (December). — Looking out through the trees on a hilltop,
we perceived, right before us, the great chain of separation between
the basins of the Irawadi and the Brahmaputra. It appeared of
great altitude, and snow covered its rocky summits. In the north-
west, at the head of the valley into which we were about to descend,
the guide pointed out a dip in the range as the pass over which
our route would lie. To counteract the pleasure which the sight
gave us, a number of misfortunes assailed us at once, and we saw
that Fate was not going to admit us into India without protest.
Roux dragged himself into camp under a sharp access of fever
which had followed a nig-ht chill. Briffaud also was on the sick-
list from a similar, though slighter, attack. By the afternoon
Joseph and two others were hors dc combat with ailments and
wounds. A half-day halt had to be called.

To further curtail our baggage, my valise was ne.xt to go.
.Some of its contents we put into a lottery for the men, to keep
up their spirits. The wag Petalon drew the chief prize, a pair
of double glasses. As for my poor litde volumes of V. Hugo
and de Musset, my companions for many a month, it was with a
pang that I saw their leaves help to kindle a fire for barbarians ;
the bird labels and photograph slips were transformed into quills
for the ears of the Kioutses, and the pages of a dictionary went

for cigarettes.

334

KHAMTI TO INDIA

Before turning in, all hands came for medical treatment, and
I allayed their complaints as far as possible with kola, quinine, or
opium pills. But it was high time to arrive somewhere ; the store
of remedies was well-nigh exhausted.

When we again set forward, heavy work fell on the column in
hacking a way through the bamboos and creepers. One advantage
in this slow progress was that it allowed the more sickly to get
up with the main body by nightfall. On the way we started some
hornbills that, with enormous beaks and resounding wings, flew
over our heads with much clangour. In two spots we saw deserted
huts ; among the wayfarers who traverse these solitary chains many
never complete their journey, victims to tigers or starvation. The
first pioneers who penetrated these fastnesses must, I imagines-
have done so by degrees, each improving a little on his pre-
decessor.

4th (December). — Roux was so ill as to be unable to move,
and Briffaud was not much better. As the situation grew graver,
I decided to send on Seran-Seli with a flying column of a few
reliable men, and the less robust, the guide, and the Kioutses.
We divided the food so as to give ten days' rice at three bowls
per diem, and I made up a few papers of kola and quinine for them.
His detachment could move fairly, with the exception of one old
Christian, whose case caused us anxiety. His heart was weak ;
and it was a painful sight to see him tottering on with fi.xed eyes
and swollen limbs ; he was too feeble any longer to bear a burden.
If only we o-ot him to a village, we miyht save him vet. The
main body, consisting of the stronger men, our boys, Joseph, my
sick comrades, and myself, must remain where we were for a day.
That was the longest we could rest with safety. My further plans
were that if on the morrow my two companions were no better,

335

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

they should stay where they were, with three men and twelve
davs' food. The others, with myself, would push on in the track
of Seran-Seli on short rations, remitting or depositing as much
and as often as possible for the rear party, who should follow as
they were able. Distressing as it was to leave any sick in the
midst of the mountains with such slender resources, this was the
only feasible scheme, for the first to reach help would immediately
pass it back along the line.

That tedious day of halt we spent in such distractions as each
could devise for himself and his fellows. We were twenty-two
in camp, including two Kioutses kept back as useful in tracking.
We might deem ourselves fortunate to have round us such a loval,
enduring, and plucky band of followers. Actually, on acquainting
Anio with the prospect of relinquishing the sick, he and the other
Thibetans were for attempting to carry them on their shoulders,
but the tangled path rendered litters impracticable.

The 5th (December) found Rou.\ incapable of the exertion of
walking, and we put our dispositions into effect. Two men
remained with him, and we furnished him with nearly all our little
reserve stock of candles, compressed soup, medicine, and tobacco.
And so we left our comrade, reluctantly, but with good hope that
before many days he would be on our trail. Heaven alone knew
what would be the end of all this, and I ardently longed to see
our whole troop reunited in the nearest village of Assam.

Briffaud, though much e.xhausted, resolved to keep going.
Our reduced column had rather a hunted aspect, especially forlorn
beino; that ot the two Kioutses. who at everv halt crouched with
their elbows on their knees, shaking in every limb. We bivouacked
that night under a big rock that offered a natural shelter in the
.middle of the forest. There were traces of previous travellers in

KHAMTI TO INDIA

five or six small bamboo altars with a few propitiatory grains of
rice for the genius of the mountain. Before quitting the spot next
morning, we left a line of encouragement for Roux to find when
he came along. This was a terrible day in all respects. We made
a late start in shivering cold, which was not improved in my own
case by an involuntary bath in an icy torrent. Fever, too, laid
hold of Joseph. At a little over 7,000 feet we came into the region
of conifers, which we had not seen lately, and shortly after reached
the snow. It was only ankle deep, but the shoulders of the great
chain to our left were spread with flawless folds. From the pass
we were on we could see behind us the Nam Phungan vallej-, the
wide depression where Khamti lay, and in the background a
tumbled mass of mountains, to the right of which a white line
marked the dividing range between the Salwen and the Kiou-kiang;
it had not its winter coat when we traversed it. Before us the
valley of the Dapha burrowed into the hills, and on our right
loomed the dim outline of big Daphaboum. From this point the
downward streams we should cross would be bound for the Brahma-
l)utra. We had done with the basin of the Irawadi, and our feet
were now in India, — India the rich, India the wonderful, a name
to conjure with, and a land to conquer from the days of Alexander
to Napoleon. I could hardly believe that our object was so nearly
attained, that we had achieved our design in its entirety ; explored
the Chinese Mekono-, fixed the sources of the great English
Irawadi, and debouched on India; that it had been reserved for
us to fulfil the dream of so many Englishmen, by finding the
shortest route from China into India.

But imagination outstripped reality. Soon after passing the
col, word was brought that Joseph, far in rear, was prostrated by
fever. To forsake him there was certain death, to send back a
Y ro7

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

man with food to stand by in an exposed, waterless spot would
court the loss of both. In this crisis Anio again came to the
fore, and volunteered to go back and bring him in ; or, if that
were impossible, to get him over the pass into shelter. We gave
him godspeed and a supply of food. At the same time one of the
Kioutses, a rice bearer, dropped behind shaking with cold and
fever. We could not stay in the snow, and went on until we
came to the ground where the advanced party had passed the
preceding night. We found two of them awaiting us w-ith the
news that the old Christian had disappeared the evening before.
Seran-Seli had searched long and unremittingly, but without success,
and it is to be feared the poor fellow crawled into some hole, where
he succumbed to his privations, or fell a prey to wild beasts. A
great grief fell upon the whole troop at the loss of a member of
our united little family — a feeling rendered more melancholy by
our inability to recover and bury his body. In the evening, after
mealtime, when the moon was up and the wind blew cold off the
snow-fields, the men knelt in a circle round the fire with their
faces turned towards Tsekou. Even we were shivering; but the
Thibetans, with bare limbs and uncovered heads and their tchaupas
thrown open at the chest, recited the litanies for the dead. There
was something deeply moving in the sight of such simple mourn-
ing, and we joined them with sincere reverence. When we set
forward on the next morning, the men out of respect left on the
spot the few coverings that had been the old man's. And that
was all his monument.

7th (December). — Joseph and Anio happily rejoined us ; but our
concern was transferred to Briffaud and. another, who were in a
very weak state. We made a short stage, but it was downhill
towards the Dapha, and the sun both warmed and cheered us.

-, -,,Q

KHAMTI TO INDIA

There was plenty of talk in the troop of "Kalikata" (Calcutta),
and Anio declared that he must learn some English words, notably
"wine" and "sugar," for with the former one could laugh at fever
and cold. The big heathen, Atong, had a remedy against these
foes in a bowl of hot water, into which he scraped a couple of
pimentos and some ginger.

Throughout the forenoon of the Sth (December) we followed
a wooded track on the left bank of the Nam-Dapha. I went on
ahead, and had a regular paper-chase in discovering the blazed
trees and broken branches of the advanced column from among
the numerous false scents of wild animals. We could not have
been far behind the others, for at one place we found the embers
of their fire still smouldering, and a mouke or tally, on which were
cut some Thibetan signs to warn us that there was no water in
front. We therefore provided ourselves with bamboo tubes full,
carried in bandolier. A large monkey which I shot proved a
welcome addition to the camp kettle. It was of the fair sex,
and very tough, but we picked her bones. A wearisome climb
had taken it out of us, and the bivouac was one of general dejection.
Each one realised that it was a struQ^ole for life now ; the Kioutses
contradicted themselves every hour. Many footprints of tigers
cutting the fresh ones of our men showed the sympathetic creatures
had wind of us. But I had no desire here for a return call from
those old friends, whose acquaintance 1 had formerly sought in
India, and guns were fired at dusk to warn them off

9th (December). — We had only rice for one more day and a
breakfast. At daybreak Anio despatched the two Kioutses to
catch up the leaders, who had two days' more supplies than we,
and to tell them to leave a little by the way for us. The march
was now along crests, and in the afternoon we viewed through the

339

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

trees the end of the mountains and a distant plain, in \vhich the
Dihing lay like a ribbon. Safety looked a long way off The
only water we found on this stage was dark and brackish ; but we
made tea with it, called it coffee, and drank. No strao-frlers on
this day.

loth (December). — The descent continued of a kind which
frequent falls had rendered familiar to us, down a watercourse,
from rock to rock. In the tops of the trees grey apes with black
faces swung by their long tails, and Sao managed with his Win-
chester to bag a little one, which did not go far among so many.
A thread of smoke to our right attracted us, as it had been intended,
to the site of the previous camp ; and there, on a bamboo decorated
with plantain leav^es, Seran-Seli had hung a little bag of rice, show-
ing that our Kioutses had overtaken him. This furnished us
with a meal, which was taken at once. Two more men (Tatou
and Petalon) fell out. We could not stop for them, but left them
in charge of each other. Anio now marched so fast, almost at a
trot, that I could scarce keep up with him. A mountain river
of considerable dimensions and strength next confronted us, and
demanded three separate fordings at spots marked for us by
pyramids of stone. The water was cold and the bottom ragged,
so that the performance was not an enjoyment. Wet to the waist,
we mended our pace, hoping to come in sight of a village at every
bend of the stream. Instead, to our chagrin, we stumbled on to
a bank of sand, where further footprints ended. Some tree trunks
thrust into mid-current showed that someone had attempted a
bridgfe, and failed. There was no evadincr it, — into the water we
must go again. But we had had enough for the day, it would
keep till the morning ; and I called a halt.

The men had nothing to eat, but there was still some tea, so we

340

KHAMTI TO INDIA

crowded round the fire, and were not more down-hearted than was
necessary. This time, at any rate, we were at the foot of the
formidable chains for good. Had I been in the humour to admire
nature at this period, I should have been struck with wonder at the
scene which the sunset lit for us. The head of the valley was
closed by a bold buttress of the remoter mountains whence we had
come. Low down by the river the trees already lay in softened
dimness, but the departing light was moving slowly upwards from
slope to sheer, blending bands of deepening heather shadows at the
base as though laid with the broad sweep of a painter's hand, until
aloft as it touched the cameo-tinted snow the purple paled to violet
and the violet blushed to rose. This was perhaps the last look we
should have of the Dzayul chain, where its final limits reach the
borderland of India.

iith (December). — Abandoned the tent and other portions of
baggage. After reconnoitring the bridge end and finding deep
water, the men scattered up and down the banks to seek a passage,
but returned nonplused. As they huddled like sheep and hung
back, Sao cut the knot by plunging in and struggling through, — the
water was up to the arm-pits, and bitterly cold. The whole of the
day we followed the windings of the valley, now on the margin, now
in the woods to cut off promontories, and in narrow places we laid
bamboo slides. The work was nearly as bad as that by the Kiou-
kiang. Empty stomachs caused our knees to knock and our
heads to swim, and the advance left a very vague impression on our
minds. Anio had got ahead of us, still bearing his pack, and,
notwithstanding that he had had nothing to eat since noon of the
day previous, he sang or whistled as loud as he could to cheer us
whenever he stopped. About four o'clock I heard shouts and a
gunshot from the front, and with my field-glasses distinguished

341

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

more than one figure. Presently we came up with Anio sitting on
a stone, and with him layo, one of the Thibetans of the leading
column, and a Kioutse. Best of all to our famished eyes, they had
rice for us. In a short time we were seated round a bowl, which
to my mind tasted better than the finest dinner at the Caf^
Anglais.

The news of the first division showed that they too had
been in a critical situation. Three Kioutses had been lost, and
only found that morning ; when the guide cheerfully proposed to
have them killed. But Seran-Seli had fallen in with four hunters
belonging to a small village, which we might hope to reach ne.xt
evening or the day after. Thus reassured, we called for volunteers
to start back for Tatou and P^talon, the two we had left yesterday,
At first the reward offered did not _ meet with any immediate
response ; their sufferings were too fresh to make any an.xious to
retrace that route. Eventually layo and a Kioutse declared them-
selves willing, and departed. Poor layo's courageous devotion
deserved a better end than he shortly afterwards met from sick-
ness in Calcutta.

Throughout the 12th (December) we proceeded more leisurely
along the shores of the Nam-Dihing. The hills receded, and left
room for many branches and islets and sandy bars, on which traces
of wild o.xen were frequent. Nevertheless we had not done with
crossings yet, and four times in as many miles did we ford the
stream. The end came at length, and quickening down an
excellent path we saw with joyful eyes a field of millet and a
house.

Seran-Seli and the guide were waiting for us. The last fourteen
days had made us feel like shipwrecked sailors sighting land again.
Our satisfaction was only marred by the thought of those still

342

KHAMTI TO INDIA

behind us in the mountains. We could not but feel very anxious
till we could succour them. As an immediate measure, people were
set to work preparing rice for the relief column.

The village we had lit upon was Bouniang, on a confluent of
the Nam-Dapha, two days from Bishi. The inhabitants and their
language were strange to us. They were styled Khamangs by our
guide. These Khamangs, I discovered, were no other than the
Mishmis, the English calling them by the latter and the Singphos
by the former name. I was glad of the chance of seeing these
noted IVIishmis, of such fierce repute, among whom Fathers Krik
and Bourry met their death, and who are opposing the English by
the Dzayul valley. They are more like the Pais than the Kioutses,
being almost brown, with rather large noses and cheek-bones, and
small chins. They wear their hair in a knot on the top of their
head, and are clad in a sleeveless coat to the knees, open in front,
and a loin cloth ; over their shoulders they occasionally throw a
covering like the Pais, either striped brown or all scarlet. Their
ears are pierced with a metal tube, to which sometimes a ring is
hung. Slung across the shoulder are a slender sword, and a pouch
made of the skin of a wild animal. The women have in front of
their hair a silver crescent held behind by cowries, and the knot
above is transfixed by wooden pins. A thin silver circlet with a
small cock's feather is fastened to the upper part of the ear, and
necklets of brass wire or glass ware are also seen. They wear a
sort of waistcoat, brown, short-sleeved, and cut in to the figure
before and behind.

The dwellings were small, and on piles. The construction of
their tombs seemed to point to a more religious, or at any rate super-
stitious, character than that of the Kioutses we had hitherto met,
nor were they less distinguished from them in their bellicose

o4j

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

humour. A couple of our men having dug up some potatoes in
a field, the chief of Bouniang made for them with a knife.

Some of our folk had gone to a neighbouring village to
forage, and now returned at the head of a company clothed in
all respects like Pais, and resembling them also in face. They
proved to be Singphos. Their leader wore a long toga of
Thibetan poulou, and brought us a gift of eggs, fish, and rice.

By the next morning sufficient supplies were collected to
start off a rescue party of three men under Oumbo, with enough
for a six days' march and back, revictualling Roiix's and layo's
detachments en roiitc. I felt easier when they had gone : pro-
vided that our comrade had succeeded in passing the col, he
would be out of danger.

We ourselves proceeded across the valley of the Dapha.
This river rolls down from the north in many branches over
a pebbly bottom, and was perhaps a hundred yards from side
to side. Higher up it must have an imposing course ; here it
was easily fordable. On the farther shore we came to three long
buildings, each over 60 feet long, as at Melekeu. This was
Daphagang. We did not at first understand the meaning of
our cold reception ; we were prevented passing through a house,
and told that it was de regie to make your entry and exit by
the same door, and though live stock abounded there was an
evident disinclination to deal. The enigma, however, was soon
solved. The chief being rich did not want money ; what he
desired was a. certificate and some European object at our hands.
We luckily had a pair of double glasses left, and the clouds were
immediately dispelled. The language of these Singphos differed
again from previous idioms ; they were familiar with several
Hindustani words.

344

KHAMTI TO INDIA

We had thought that henceforward our progress was to be
little more than a promenade. But we were undeceived in
several particulars. On continuing we had a splendid path
until midday through trees, among which we startled many large
monkeys and hornbills, and elephant trails were fresh and
misleading. But after that the track was lost, and for several
miles we had to tear our way through thorny undergrowth and

Ford on the Nam-Diliin:

Stony nullahs. When we struck the Nam-Dihing on the left
bank, a precipitous bluff stood full in our way, with no passage
between its base and the water. It had therefore to be assailed
in flank, and proved a hard nut to crack on account of con-
stant backsliding and falling stones dislodged by the leading files.
It was a curious landmark, obtruding itself lOO feet high from
the otherwise level surroundings. Down by the river again we
found a reed hut with four Singphos fishing. They sold us

345

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

twenty grand fish, mahseers, many weighing over 5 lbs. If I
had had lines, and had not been so tired, I must have joined
them.

The valley of the Nam-Dihing is wide, and bounded by low
wooded hills. The river-bed in which we walked for some

distance testified to
the size of the river in
flood. As it was, we
had to ford it in many
arms, and at the village
of Mong-Pien to cross
by raft. At the latter
place we were well
received by the people,
who let off guns in our
honour, and amongst
whom we met a
young man who had
been guide to Colonel
Woodthorpe in 1875
(1885?) and later to
Mr. Gray. Bishi was
declared to be but a
short distance farther.
At our approach the aged chief of Bishi came out to meet
us, and escorted us to a house where we made ourselves com-
fortable once more within four walls. This was on the i6th
(December).

During the three days which we spent at Bishi we lived on
the fat of the land, and the time passed agreeably, but for

346

/

\

V:

/'i

/'

/,i'-^'7

Chief at liislii

KHAMTI TO INDIA

anxiety on Roux's account. The men did not prepossess me
very favourably even in comparison with the Khamti Thais,
being their inferiors both in industry and civiHsation. Round
the fire in the evening it was interesting to reckon up the different
tongues which were trying mutually to converse : they were
nine, — Chinese, Thibetan, Mosso, Lissou, Loutse,^ Thai, Singpho,
Mishmi, and Hindu, called here Monam.

In a corner of an open space of the village were two rows of
five small holes with two larg-er ones at either end, into which
the people tossed small pebbles. I did not understand the
game, but I had seen something similar played by negroes at
Majunga. Outside the village there was a clearing beneath
some large trees, which seemed as though intended as a place of
prayer. Along the path that led to it trunks of trees, cut
longitudinally, faced each other in pairs, with a third, the bark
of which hung in shreds from half its height, in the middle.
The adjacent woods appeared full of game.

On the i/th (December) layo, Tatou, and Petalon came
in. The two latter had given themselves up for lost by the
time aid reached them. They said that they found in the sand
the footprints of a tiger which had regularly followed our
column, like a shark in the wake of a ship.

By the 19th (December) we had hoped to have news of
Roux ; but none coming up to that date, and the feeding of so
large a number of visitors taxing the resources of the place, we
deemed it expedient to move on by slow marches into the plain.
Accordingly our troop left Bishi on the 20th (December) in the
morning. Sao, Joseph, and I were to follow at noon. We

^ The Kioutses from Singleng spoke a slightly altered dialect. They called themselves
Metouans.

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

intrusted a letter and some money for Roux to the chief, with
injunctions that as soon as he should be signalled a messenger
should be sent after us. I had just gone into the house, when
Sao came running in, calling, "Here he is!", and "Loutajen!"
shouted Joseph at the same moment from without.

The joy with which we met may be imagined. We both
breathed freely again, and a great weight was lifted off my mind.
The whole party was safe and sound, and could afford to look
back upon deliverance from a very near thing.

Roux's story was as follows : For two whole days after our
departure he had been unable to move. The fever then abated,
but left him very weak. By the time they got to the pass fresh
snow had nearly obliterated our tracks. They were disturbed by
the nightly proximity of a tiger, doubtless the same that snuffed us,
whose respect evidently decreased as numbers diminished. When
they reached the Nam-Dihing they were stopped by a spate, and
one of them narrowly escaped drowning while trying to make
a bridge. As it was, he was cast ashore on the wrong side, and
passed the night without fire or food, and soaked. The "Doctor"
and the other meanwhile retraced their steps through the woods
in the dark in search of a ford, with the agreeable reflection that
they were cut off by a big river with almost empty haversacks.
Their disquietude was augmented by the discovery of our aban-
doned baggage ; they dreaded lest the next turn should disclose
the starvinor remnants of our column. The relief did not fall in
with them a moment too soon.

Our whole strength reassembled at Khagan, with hearty con-
gratulations at our reunion. From there we descended in four
days to Sadiya. Everywhere our welcome was cordial. The
English Political Agent at the latter place, to whom w^e had notified

34S

KHAMTI TO INDIA

our coming by courier from Bishi, had issued orders that every
possible faciHty should be given us, and himself kindly sent us
a most acceptable present of preserves.

On the 2ist (December) we found elephants awaiting us, pro-
vided bv the same gentleman's forethought ; and for the first time
for months we were able to spare our own legs and smoke our
pipes in luxury.

The intermediate
villages were mainlv
Singpho, and a few
Thai, the latter easily
recoenisable from their
religious posts in shape
like elliptical roofed
houses, such as we had
already seen in Khamti.
The scenery much re-
sembled that of Laos ;
dwellings appeared
amid palms and plan-
tains. Between the
villaofes we traversed

o

extensive woods and
paddy-fields, where the
starried buffaloes wheeled into line of battle as we passed. We cer-
tainly formed a queer troop. At the head we rode on elephants, and
behind us wound our porters, their grey tchaupas contrasting with
the brighter garments of the Singphos in the sun. We might have
been taken for a string of prisoners or a procession of penitents.
Nam's behaviour at this time was that of a litde child ; he was

349

Singphos.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

continually stopping to smoke pipes with the villagers and getting
lost. It was a wonder he was not left behind. At the Iara:e village
of Ninglou we were received by the white-bearded chief, who, with
his son, was clad in Chinese robes of gorgeous silk, with a gold
dragon embroidered on the front. This venerable personage was

a Singpho of im-
portance ; three men
behind him bore a
white umbrella and
two red banners.
He presented a letter
to us from Mr. Need-
ham at Sadiya. It
was a pleasure to
me to remark several
Indians at Ninglou.
After a year spent
among the peoples of
the Mongol race,
these Aryans, with
their lively eyes,
profiles, and beards
like our own, seemed
almost brothers ; as
indeed the Indians

w

.Singph'p Wnni.-in.

are, elder brothers. Joseph's delight, too, at seeing a real shop
again and comparing its prices with those of Tali, was amusing.

On the 24th (December) Rou.x and I descended the remaining
reaches of the Nam-Dihing for some hours in a pirogue to the
Brahmaputra, which at this point was 100 yards to 200 yards

350

KHAMTI TO INDIA

wide, with a slow current. In the west and north-west we per-
ceived the distant ranges behind which lies an unexplored
territory, the Tsangpo valley. In the course of the afternoon
we disembarked at Sadiya, where hearty greetings were exchanged
with Mr. Needham.

Sadiya is the extreme north-east outpost of the British Indian
Empire. Mr. Needham's position is that of Assistant to the Political
Service, and he is in supreme and sole charge. He has passed
twenty-eight years in India, and exercises the functions of Resident,
judge, and commandant of the troops, of whom there are one
hundred under native officers. Another five hundred sepoys could
be summoned by telegraph within twelve hours, should emergency
arise. In addition to the importance involved by his relations
with the frontier tribes, he governs in and around Sadiva more
than sixty thousand people. After twenty - eight years passed
in India, thirteen of which have been spent in the district, he
speaks, besides Hindustani, — Bengali, Thai (of which he has
compiled a Grammar), Singpho, Assamese, Abor (also with a
Grammar in preparation), and Mishmi. What an e.xample to
France of the right man in the right place ! and what a simpli-
fication of the world of vice-rdsidents, commis de rdsidence, and
chanceliers all engaged in manipulating the papers which we deem
indispensable to the administration of a province. Here, one hand
controls the whole. It is true that he is well paid, and that
after thirty years' service he will be entitled to a pension. He
submits his claim for travelling expenses, and it is discharged
to him direct. There is none of that system of mistrust to which
we are too prone. The English place implicit confidence in the
zeal of their officers to work their hardest for the interests of
their empire.

351

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

The pacification of Upper Assam has not been an easy
undertaking'. For many years the EngUsh have had to main-
tain frequent feuds with the Khamtis and the Singphos. At
present the country is fairly quiet. The Singphos have been
allowed their independence under a chief, who reports to the
Imperial Government the movements and intentions of the neigh-
bouring tribesmen. In return he receives a subsidy. It was
he whom we saw at Ninglou. His subjects pay no taxes to
the English, but they are sometimes employed as coolies on such
public works as the making of a road or a railway.

To the north the Himalaya Mountains, through which the
Tsangpo and the Lohit or Dzayul rivers fret their way by
narrow gorges, are infested by tribes which, although adjacent,
differ from each other both in speech and customs. This aggre-
gation of little -known and inaccessible peoples, always wild and
generally fierce, constitutes a regular Babel. Whence they came ;
how, having pitched on the southern flank of the Himalayas
overlooking India, they have yet preserved their individual dis-
tinctions ; and why, if they are of a common stock, they are so
dissimilar, are problems still unsolved.

Among these populations the most important is that of the
Abors, who occupy the hills to the north and north-west of
Sadiya. Their name for themselves is Pandam. Ne-xt to them
come the Miris, who in successive raids burned three villages in
the plain. The Abors having killed some native soldiers in an
ambuscade, a punitive expedition was recently sent against them,
and encountered great physical difficulties. Mr. Needham described
them as having no chief, and as making slaves. Their villages
are larce collections of from seven hundred to a thousand
dwellings. They invariably put all prisoners to the sword, and

352

KHAMTI TO INDIA

strip the dead. In the late operations the troops had to escalade
abattis i,8oo yards long formed of stones and trunks of trees.
Seven or eight villages were burnt, their cattle slain, and their
cultivation trampled by elephants. In this way the English make
their power felt. At the time of our visit the Abors were blockaded
in their valleys, and forbidden to sell anything in the plain on pain
of death. We, however, had a sight of a few who had been
allowed to come down and tender their submission to the Govern-
ment with offerings of the large short-horned black cattle called
gayals. They had olive complexions, straight-set eyes, nose and
mouth large. From their habit of shaving the crown of the head,
they looked at a distance as if they had caps. They wore a short-
sleeved red garment and small loin cloth. Some Mishmis whom
we also saw at Sadiya had small conical hats of plaited bamboo.
We were shown some of their earthen vessels, which seemed to
corroborate the account of the pandits of parts of Thibet where
stone utensils are in vogue.

During our three days' stay at Sadiya, Mr. Needham drove
us round the neighbourhood. A loaded Winchester and a revolver
were advisable to guard against ambushes, which are frequent.
It is by clearing the bush, the gradual making of roads, and
the establishment of small blockhouses with patrols between them,
that little by little the settlement of the district is being effected.

From Sadiya the descent to Calcutta is easy. A few hours of
pirogue to Talap, and thence by rail to Dibrugarh. As far as
the eye could reach the country was covered with tea plantations.

From the official statistics of tea culture in Assam for 1894

we took the following figures: — Acres under cultivation, 268,796 ;

number of gardens, 823 ; permanent labourers and overseers,

331,807 ; temporary ditto, 98,043. Picking, approx., 94,829,059

z 353

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

lbs. In Calcutta the pound fetches on an average from seven
to eleven annas. We visited a garden at Tala| The tea is not
planted on the hills but well in the plain, on round cleared but
not manured, with intervals of 4 or 5 feet between the bushes.
Two coolies are enough to an acre. When the leaves have
been picked, in March and September, the plant is cut back to
within 6 inches of the ground. The best seasons yield 900 lbs.
an acre per annum ; the tea begins to pay after three or four
years. The plantation at Talap was of 1,350 acres, and the
usual number of plants is 2,700 on an acre.

In the centre of the plantation are the coolie villages, the
large two-storeyed bungalows of the Europeans, and the build-
ings where the leaf is prepared. These houses are often as
much as 130 feet long, built of bricks, with corrugated zinc roofs.
In some is the steam machinery, and in others the drying
process is carried on.

The prosperity of the tea plantations of Assam is due not
only to the spirit of enterprise in those who made them, but
also in a large measure to the labour regulations. The coolies
are recruited in Bengal, whence the journey of each one costs a
hundred and fifty rupees ; and they engage of their own free will for
a term of three years. Should anyone during that time desert,
and be captured, he is first imprisoned and then handed over to
his master. Escape is not easy, for to stay in Hindu Assam is to
be retaken, and to seek refuge with the Singphos or the hill
tribes is to be enslaved. The intervention of the Government,
which we should call forfeit for breach of contract, secures the
employer. " If we had not this safeguard against any who
chose to break their agreement," said an overseer to me, "we
could not risk the capital which we put into the plantation."

354

KHAMTI TO INDIA

Of course, when recruiting, the usual attractions are held
out to the men, — healthy country, plenty to eat, nothing to do.
These enticements are no more than the baits employed for
the enlistment of soldiers or sailors.

If the employers can count on the support of the Government
to ensure the conditions of their labour, the men on their side
can also claim the protection of the same power. Twice a year
the plantations are visited by official inspectors, who inquire
into the treatment of the coolies, see that they are properly
housed, and that hospitals are provided for the sick and schools
for the children. It is this direct interposition of the Govern-
ment of the Queen to which Assam owes the opulence and air
of thriving vigour which I envy for our own colonies. In
Annam, as I have said, we possess splendid land well suited
for the culture of tea. The French colonist ought similarly to
be able to look for the help or at least the non-hostility of his
Government in his efforts to achieve fortune.

From Dibrugarh we descended the Brahmaputra by steamer.
The service is a daily one, and the boats e.xcellent. Along the
river banks torpid crocodiles basked on sandy bars, and offered
tempting shots for our carbines. After the tea country came
the fine plain of Assam, with frequent towns — Tespour, Gauhati,
Goalapura ; at each numerous steamers lined the bank. On
all sides were proofs of wealth, power, strength, and success.
At the stopping-places we usually went ashore to stretch our
legs, see the market, or loiter before the shops, where to our
unaccustomed eyes all seemed fresh. On such occasions our
men would follow us about, exclaiming at each step, like school-
boys. And right well had they earned their holiday, after the
life they had led and the trials they had gone through, and the

355

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

manner in which they had given us their entire trust and
devotion without a murmur. This was paradise to them, and
they plied us with astonished questions. Like ourselves, they
were struck by the prosperity of the country. We told them
how the "' Inqtiij'ens" (English) had only been in Assam for
fifty years ; but to attempt an e.xplanation of the reasons for
their welfare to a Thibetan comprehension was too complicated.
Moreover, in the colonial spirit of our rivals there is not a little
affinity to the commercial side of the Chinese.

As I admire the work of the English, I look round upon
ourselves, and think of what is wanting to make our colonies
prosperous like theirs. It is continuity of policy; it is the
grand freedom of the colonist, backed up by his Government ; it
is a simplicity of administration in the hands of able men who
know their way and take it.

There is no use in hiding one's head ostrich-like under a
stone. It is better to look the truth in the face. In no set
of circumstances has 'yvSidt aeavrov more significance than in
colonial affairs, in which it behoves us to take a lesson.

And all the while that I am making these reflections and
comparisons 1 cannot dispossess my mind of the thought that
the whole of this rich expanse ought to have been ours.

" ' Inquijen' preliendunt donas terras/" cried Joseph as we
descended into the plains of Assam. Yes ; the English have
taken India, and we let them do it. The ineptness and ignor-
ance of a monarch with ill counsellors allowed our rivals to
win an empire whose foundations were laid by a few resolute
Frenchmen. Yet, if there is any consolation to be derived under
the loss of one of our children, it is that of seeing it grown into
a strono- man, and of knowing that to make it so its guardians

356

KHAMTI TO INDIA

followed the lines of its first instructor. Over India the mighty
shade of Dupleix ever watches. Though the patriot died in his
own country, poor, unknown, and deserted, his memory lives.
No one knew better how to render justice to the generous and
wide-reaching schemes of Dupleix than his greatest antagonist,
Clive. It is with the same perception that Colonel Malleson
has written {His/, oj the French in India) : — " If, in the
present day, there exist among her citizens regrets at the loss
of an empire so vast, so powerful, so important, ... it will
be impossible for France herself ... to suppress a glow of
pride at the recollection that it was a child of her soil who dared
first to aspire to that great dominion, and that by means of the
impulse which he gave, though followed out by his rivals,
the inhabitants of Hindostan have become permanently united
to their long-parted kinsmen — the members of the great family
of Europe."

^f%Mj^

Tliibetan Dwelling.

357

APPENDICES

APPENDIX A

LIST AND DISCUSSION OF SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATIONS

TAKEN AND CALCULATED BY

M. EMILE ROUX

Enseigne de Vaisseau

I. LATITUDES

Numerical
Order.

Name and Position of Place of
Observation.

Latitude.

Method Employed.

I

Pho-lu, Red River (Upper
Tonkin), near the post

22' 21' 30"

Pole Star (Theodolite).

2

Maiihao, Red River (Yiin-

23° °°' 45"

Circummeridian altitudes of

nan), market by river-side

sun (Sextant).

2 bis.

Matihao, Red River (Yiin-

23° 00' 15"

Two groups of circum-

nan), market by river-side

Mean adopted

meridian altitudes of the

for Manhao :

sun (Theodolite).

23° 00' 30"

3

Mongtse (Yiinnan), court of

23° 20' 15"

I Circummeridian altitude

the French Consulate at

of sun (Theodolite).

i' 2" S. of the centre of

Result uncertain ; the theo-

the town

dolite being insufficiently
rectified.

3 bis.

Mongtse (Yiinnan), court of

23° 21'

Pole Star (Theodolite).

the French Consulate at

Direct measurement by

i' 2" S. of the centre of

sun.

the town

3 ter-

Mongtse (Yiinnan), court of

23° 21' 55

Circummeridian altitudes of

the French Consulate at

Adopted for

sun Theodolite).

i' 2" S. of the centre of

Mongtse: 23°

the town

21' 30", mean
between 3 bis.
and 3 ter.

4

Fong-Clun-Lin (\unnan)

23° 4'

Circummeridian altitudes of
sun (Theodolite).

5

Oua-Kouitse/i ( \' 11 nnan)

23° 7'

Meridian altitude of sun
(Sextant).

6

Tamatolo (Yunnan)

23° 10'

Meridian attitude of sun
(Sextant).

361

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Numerical
Order.

Name and Position of Place of
Observation .

10
1 1
12
'3

14

14 bis.

'5
16

17

18

19

Ta-Min-Mi, Red River
(Yiinnan)

Mai-Cheu (Yi.innan)

ha, above the Red River
(right bank) (Yunnan),
camping ground on mound
to \\ . of town

Souto (Yunnan)

Sou- Tchou-Sai ( Yiinnan)
Sama (Yiinnan)

Point on the Black River
(Ly-sien-kiang), at inter-
section of route from Isa
to Muong-Le

Muong-Le (Yunnan), centre
of town

Muong-Le (Yiinnan), centre
of town

Ta-Koue-Lin (Yiinnan)

Im-Pou-Tsin (\'iinnan)

Ssuinao or Setnao (Yiinnan),
court of the inn Ou-shing-
hao

Kotchiento (Yiinnan), to E.
of Ta-lotsin chain

Tian-Pi, point where the
Mekong is intersected by
the route from Semao to
Dayakeu (Yiinnan)

iVampe, point where the
Mekong is intersected by
the route from Chuen-lo
to Mong-pan (Yiinnan)

Alang-Kai (\'unnan)

Latitude

23 II

23° is; 30"
23° 22'

23 19 30

23° 9' 30"
22° 57'
22° 49'

22° 35' 20"

22 35

Mean adopted
for Muong-Le:
22° 35' 10"

22° it; 30"

22° 37' 45"

22° 46' 07
22° 46' 47"

22° 45' 5°"

Mean adopted

for Semao :
22° 46' 30"
22° 39' 25"

22" 37

23 °o 45

23 13 41
23° 13' 17"
Mean adopted

23° '3' 30"
^62

Method Employed.

By deduction from the lati-
tude of Tamatolo. See
note.

Meridian altitude (Sextant).

Pole Star (Theodolite).
Direct measurement by
Sirius.

By deduction from the lati-
tude of Isa.

Circummeridian altitudes of
sun (Theodolite).

Circummeridian altitudes of
sun (Theodolite).

Circummeridian altitudes of
sun (Theodolite).

Circummeridian altitudes of

sun (Theodolite). 28th

March.
Circummeridian altitudes of

sun (Theodolite). 29th

March.

Circummeridian altitudes of
sun (Theodolite).

Circummeridian altitudes of
sun (Theodolite).

6 Circummeridian altitudes
of sun taken 2 by 2 (Theo-
dolite).

Pole Star (Theodolite).

Direct measurement by

Sirius.
Circummeridian altitudes of

sun (Theodolite).

Circummeridian altitudes of
sun (Theodolite).

Two groups of Pole Star
altitudes (Theodolite).
Direct measurement by
Venus.

APPENDIX A

Numerical
Order.

Name and Position of Place of Latitude
Obser\-ation.

^^ethod Employed.

22

Mong Ka (Viinnan)

23° 25'

Circummeridian altitudes of

1

sun (Theodolite).

23

Mienning (Yiinnan), court 23° 53' 45"

Pole Star (Theodolite). ;

of the inn lang-Ching,

Direct measurement by

suburb E. of town

moon.

24

Tcheya (Yunnan)

24' 12' 45"

Pole Star (Theodolite). '
Direct measurement by
Venus.

25

Yiinchou (Yunnan), court of

24' 25'

Circummeridian altitudes of

the inn Fou-tchi-tchou

sun (Theodolite).

26

Chunning-Fou (Yiinnan)

24° 34' 15"

Circummeridian altitudes of
sun (Theodolite).

27

Tsa-Fa-Se (Yiinnan)

25° 01' 30"

I Circummeridian altitude of
sun (Theodolite). Direct
measurement by sun.

28

Tali-Fou, court of the

25° 42' 30"

Circummeridian altitudes of

Catholic Mission in the

sun (Theodolite).

centre of town

29

Kiang-Pin (Yiinnan)

25° 59' 25"

Pole Star (Theodolite).
Direct measurement by
the Great Bear.

30

Yun-Long-Cheou (Yiinnan)

25' 47' 15'

Pole Star (Theodolite).
Direct measurement by
Sirius.

31

Pen- Tchou-Miao, near Tche-

25° 48' 15'

Pole Star (Theodolite).

lotsen (Yunnan)

Direct measurement by
Venus.

32

Hekipa, above the route

26° 22' 30"

Pole Star (Theodolite).

from the Mekong (Yiin-

Direct measurement by

nan)

the Great Bear.

The two instruments used for determining the above latitudes were —

(i) A HurUmann sextant graduated to 10", and
(2) A Hurlimann small theodolite graduated to i'.

The sextant observations are subject to errors of centring, both constant and
variable, amounting in the best instruments to i ' ; so that the readings apparently
true to lo" are not absolute. The error can only be partially rectified by taking the
meridian altitudes of two stars, one to the north and the other to the south, and
adopting the mean of the results. This proceeding, however, requires both time
and patience, and the care and difficulty attending night observations with the
sextant are well known.

Moreover, in tropical and semi-tropical countries these latter methods are the
only ones possible during the greater part of the year. From the 8th of March
I was obliged to discontinue the use of the sextant for obtaining latitudes by
observation of the sun, the double meridional altitude on that date reaching 126',
or almost the extreme limit of the graduations. From latitude 23' the instrument
became unavailable until October, .\dded to which the necessity for having a

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

sufficient cjuantity of mercury for the artificial horizon, and of keeping it perfectly
clean, are further drawbacks when on the march. For the foregoing reasons, I soon
gave up using the sextant in favour of the theodolite. Hy land the latter instrument
is far handier, and quite as accurate. By always taking double observations of the
altitudes — that is to say, with the telescope on the right and again on the left —
the errors of coilimation and level are eliminated ; and as it is easy to estimate to
i and even to ^ of a division, one can count on being correct to 30".

I most generally emjjloyed the method of finding the latitude by two circum
meridian altitudes without previous calculation. This has the advantage of dispensing
completely with the knowledge of absolute values, and it is sufficient to have a
good watch with a second hand to mark the exact interval of time between the
two observations, which may be taken, immaterially, either before or after noon.
The calculation is a little longer than that of latitude deduced from meridian
observation ; but the observation is easier and more reliable, the greatest advantage
being that one has usually from twenty minutes to forty minutes during which it is
possible to take it, instead of being obliged to seize a precise moment, when, as
likely as not, the sun may be covered by a cloud.

On days when we were halted I have sometimes taken a single circummeridian
altitude, but on these occasions it was imperative to know exactly the error of the
watch, and for that reason to take the observation either two hours before or two
hours after midday. From all points of view this method is inferior to the other.
Finally, I often employed the pole star, obtaining the true value by some heavenly
body immediately before my observation.

All my altitudes have been invariably observed in the following manner : — Set
the telescope so that the sun shall be either a little above or below the observing
wires ; then begin to count, taking the time when the sun's disc is tangent to the
first thread ; observe successively the time of passing the seven threads of the
eye-piece ; read upper and lower vernier : this reading is that which corresponds to
the mean of the times noted. If the observation has been made with the telescope
on the right, repeat with it on the left, and take the mean. Every altitude thus
obtained corresponds in reality to the mean of a series of 7. Those which differ from
the mean, and which therefore are useless, can be struck out. When obliged to count
for myself, I thought it enough to observe the passage at the ist, 4th, and 7th threads.
The latitudes obtained by the theodolite may be considered as, approximately,
exact to 30" or 45" ; those of Ssumao, Manhao, Mongtse, etc., being the mean of
two or three groups of observations, exact to 1 5" or 30 ". Similarly, those obtained
by the sextant are to be regarded as approximately exact to i' to i' 30". Both
at Tali-F'ou and at Ssumao I was able to compare my results with tho.se of Francis
Gamier, and the discrepancy in neither case amounted to i'.

Latitudes Nos. 7 and 10 were deduced from
Nos. 6 and 9 by the subjoined method, common
enough in mountainous countries : —

Let C B be two points, visible to each other,
the latitude of B being ascertained by observa-
tion, and its altitude known by barometric
readings. The next day being at C, and the
state of the atmosphere precluding observation,
the latitude of C may be deduced from fixing
its position relatively to B.

For this purpose observe the altitude of C,
and take by theodolite the inclination of the .slope CB :

Let H = altitude of B
and let H' = altitude of C,
then in the triangle ABC
AB = AC cot a = (H' - H) cot a.

364

APPENDIX A

The result of this calculation gives the horizontal projection, that is to say, the
distance on the map, and hence the latitude of C. It is enough that the difference
of position of the two points should be sufficient to prevent any slight intermediate
barometric change producing more than an insignificant effect on AB. In cases
7 and lo these differences were considerable, amounting to 3,136 feet and
1,394 feet respectively.

II. DECLINATIONS

The declinations were obtained with the compass-theodolite with additional
piece. Previous observations of the sun had given its azimuth, and consequently
the true north. The mean of forty readings of the needle (5 point south ; 5 point
north ; needle above, telescope on the right ; id., needle above, telescope on the
left ; id., needle below, telescope on the right ; id., needle below, telescope on
the left) gave the magnetic north. The declinations of Tali-Fou and Ssumao were
obtained by eighty readings, forty with each of my two needles. Their error wa.s
from ^o" to i'.

Numerical

Date.

Name and Position of Place

Magnetic

Order.

of Observation.

Declination.

I

1 1

October

1894

Pnompenh (Cambodia), Resid-
ency garden

I ° 30' 50 " E.

2

23

)»

))

Battaml'ang (Siam), court of
the mission ....

i" 1 6' 10" E.

3

3

February

1895

Lang Nhii (between Baoha and
Pho-lu, Red River, Upper
Tonkin) ....

i' 23' 15" E.

4

1 1

)'

>)

Manhao (Red River, Yunnan).

1° 23' 30" E.

5

22

J)

J)

Mongtse (Yiinnan), court of
French Consulate

r 18' 40" E.

6

8

March

)i

Tamatolo (Yiinnan) .

1 ° 08' 40" E.

7

8

April

f>

Ssmnao (Yunnan), 1093 yards
south, 18A m. east of the
inn Ou-Shing-Hao

i" 38' 40" E.

8

19

>)

J)

Ta-Chiii-Chong, between Tian-
pi on the Mekong and
Dayakeu (Yunnan)

I ' 42' 10" E.

9

29

J)

j»

Mong-Ka (Yiinnan)

r 47' 40' E.

10

13

May

jj

Tcheya (Yiinnan), route from
Mienning to Yun-chou

' 45' 30" E.

1 1

23

)»

>»

Tsa-Fa-Se, road from Chunning-
fou to Meng- Huating (Yiin-
nan)

I 36' 55' E.

12

29

It

)»

Tali-Fou, court of mission
(Yiinnan) ....

r 38' 30" E.

13

25

June

»>

Tche-lo-Tsen (Yiinnan)

1° 47' 30" E-

14

>7

July

))

Hekipa, above the right bank
of the Mekong (Yunnan)

1' 57' 30" E.

As was to be expected, the N.-E. declinations increased almost steadily
in proportion as we advanced in a north-westerly direction. It was only near
Muong-le (Chinese Laos) that minerals were in sufficient evidence to falsify
completely the indications of the needle. There I found three declinations so

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

utterly at variance with each other and with the probable result, that I was obliged
to reject them altogether. On every other occasion constant verifications admitted
of my placing entire reliance upon the readings of the compass.

Being actually the first traveller in Viinnan to take precise declinations (Francis
(larnier had no theodolite), I had no data for a comparison with the annual increase
or decrease of magnetic intensity in that country. It is to be hoped that future
•observations made at the same points for several years may supply what is desirable.

My instruments having been stolen at the end of July by the Lamasjen, my
astronomical observations ceased from that date.

III. LONGITUDES

Numerical
Order.

Date.

Place of Observation.

Longitude
(E. of Paris).

I

2 April 1895

Impuutstn (route from Muong-

le to Ssuniao)

99° 24'

2

6 „ .,

Ssiimao (court of the inn Ou-

Shing-Hao) ....

98° 47' 3°"

3

27

Ma/ig-Kai (route from Mong-

Pan to Mong-Ka)

98° 4

4

30 May

Tali-t'ou (court of the Catholic

Mission) ....

97' 59'

5

25 June

Pagoda Pentchou-Miao, near
Tche-lo-tsen (route from
Vunlong-Chou to the Me-

kong) . .

97° 14'

6

26

Fey-Long-Kiao (on the bank of

the Mekong)

97° 6'

The longitude of Fey-Long-Kiao was the last observed, owing, as above, to the
loss of my theodolite.

Insti-umeiit and Method Employed. — The foregoing longitudes were obtained by
the use of the small Hurlimann theodolite graduated to 1'. For their determina-
tion I used the method of equal altitudes of moon and stars ably set forth by
M. Caspari, ingenieur hydrographe de la marine, in the second part of his
Coiirs d'astroitoiiite pratique (Paris, Gauthier-X'illars, p. 155). The principle of this
system is essentially the same as that of the method of lunar altitudes : but errors
of refraction, reading, and graduation are allowed for in the following manner : —

Fix the telescope of the theodolite at a certain height, which it is not necessary
to know exactly. Choose a star, for purposes of comparison, as near as possible
to the moon's trajectory, and note the time at which the foremost of the two
bodies, in the direction of the diurnal motion, pa.sses beneath the horizontal thread.
Then displacing the telescope in azimuth, without altering its height, await the transit
of the second body, and again note the time. At each of such junctures ob.serve the
level, to check the stability or variations of inclination of the axis of the telescope.

As shown by the formute of M. Caspari, the refractions, which owing to the
proximity of the two bodies may be considered as identical, do not appear in the
calculation ; the absolute altitudes being immaterial, the errors of graduation are
removed ; and it is enough to observe one side of the axis only, whether with the
telescope on the right or on the left. Immediately before or after, the local time
should be ascertained.

In the case where the two bodies are near meridian passage, the observations

366

APPENDIX A

of azimuth may be substituted for those of altitude. The former was the method
adopted in determining the longitude of Ssumao.

This proceeding is, on the whole, the best that can be followed in exploration,
next to that of occultations, which necessitate the carrying of a powerful telescope.
It is superior to those of lunar altitudes and lunar distances by the sextant, as the
value of the latter depends upon taking several series east and west to eliminate
the error of centring Nevertheless, it must be borne in mind that every error of
observation being multiplied by thirty in the result, an approximation only of from
7' to 10' can be counted on with the small theodolite at my disposal. With a
large theodolite repeater M. Caspari was able to obtain an approximation of 2',
but such a result can only be regarded as exceptional.

This want of precision being recognised, I was unable to bring to bear the
same exactness of correction on my longitudes as on my latitudes. I can, however,
affirm that each point entered in the foregoing list lies within a settled zone of
between 15' and 20' in breadth. It is important, while bearing in mind the vast
tracts of wholly unexplored country involved, to admit a certain, even if exaggerated,
margin for error. This importance naturally decreases in proportion as the divergence
in the observations diminishes, and disappears if it is a matter of correcting a
march of a few days only.

By a systematic comparison of my estimated with my observed latitudes, I can
show the amount of reliance to be placed on my reckoning. In a period of
travel extending over two months the error never amounted to more than
between 7' and 10'. As Francis Gamier based all his longitudes on observations
of lunar distances with the sextant, their approximation is not closer. For the
positions of Tali and Ssumao, the two fundamental points of my map, through
which places he also passed, I have therefore judged it the most reasonable
process to take the mean between our respective observed longitudes, using my
value for error in the estimated longitudes.

From all which deliberations I am in a position to assume that the error in
the longitudes of my map does not exceed 4' to 5' — at any rate as far as Tali-Fou.
After the loss of my theodolite I had to rely on my estimation ; yet, on comparing
my journey with that of Captain Gill to Atentse, and with the geodesic survey of
India, I was able on arrival in Assam to check my calculations, and to correct the
intermediate points in proportion. When we reached Khamti, after three months'
travel through the most arduous country, I was only 6' out in latitude and 5' in
longitude from the position laid down by Colonel A\'oodthorpe. Such a result,
which I confess surpassed my expectations, shows how accurate the method of
estimation can be made with great care and some experience. I should add that
during those three months I was able to look back from each summit to others
which I had passed a week or a fortnight previously, and thus had several
opportunities of checking my results.

I had carried with me two of those chronometers (Leroy) known in the navy
under the name of torpedo-boat watches, but I soon gave up using them. I
found that in a rough and difficult country, where falls, immersions, and all
manner of accidents were of constant occurrence, it was next to impossible to
preserve watches from sudden shocks. Further, we daily experienced changes in
temperature of as much as 20°, which disturbed their rate of going, while the
practical impossibility of making sufficiently long and frequent halts to regulate
them, quickly convinced me of the futility of attempting to determine longitude by
the passage of time.

As for occultations, I confess that I had not a single opportunity of observing
one under favourable conditions. My telescope was not of sufficient power to
allow me to observe clearly the occultations of stars of the fifth and seventh
magnitude, nor did the atmospheric state e^•er admit a chance of observing those
of the first magnitude, which, as is well known, is sufficiently rare elsewhere.

567

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

IV. ALTITUDES

0

.'\t same Date.

i

^.2

rt

C c

Dates.

Places of Observation.

0
0

s

2

a
S

c .

ii it.

OJ c

£.2
n

II

1/

<

1895.

Feet.

7 Feb.

Bac - Sat (Tonkin), Red

River ....

29,64

64°. 40

l°-^2,

57''- 20

22°

368

»J J)

Long - P6 (China - Tonkin

frontier), Red River

29.56

68°

))

»)

23°

444

»> JJ

Manhao ....

29.48

7i°.6o

»)

)1

,,

516

18 „

Mongtse ....

25.70

)5

30.11

66^20

M

4,509

27 „

Highest point of col on
route, Mongtse to Long-

choui-tieou

24.05

48°. 20

)»

69^80

,,

6,273

28 „

Long-choui-tieou

24.64

S7°.20

»T

»)

»»

5,676

)) H

Highest point on route,
Long - choui - tieou to
Choui - Tien (summit of

the Cone Chain) .

24- 1 3

55°-40

»)

)»

I)

6,227

)) ))

Choui-Tien

25.82

66'. 20

J)

)5

>)

4,371

3 March

Sha-ha-te ....

25.27

57".2o

30.19

59'

,,

4,95°

4 »,

Passage of the Mafong Ho.

27.00

))

)5

62'. 60

7?

3,120

») )j

Col of chain between the
Mafong Ho and the

Chilipo Ho .

25-31

60 .80

))

)»

)»

4,946

>» )»

Foiig Chen Lin .

2594

57°.2o

30.00

))

JT

4,058

5 »

Highest point of col on
route, Fong Chen Lin

to Sin-Ka ' .

24.01

68°

)»

jj

,,

6,290

J) 15

Col near Sin-Ka

24.68

6o°.8o

))

)j

•n

5,490

6 „

Ouong-chou-pe .

23.66

62°. 60

»1

,,

)5

6,672

7 >.

Bottom of valley of the

Yang-si Ho .

26.25

82°

29.92

68'

T)

3,765

>J JJ

Highest point on route,

Poun-ka to 'I'amatolo

25.11

68°

))

J)

))

5,059

9

Bank of Red River near

Ou-pang

28.93

91°

30.00

66^20

>t

1,047

J) »)

Sintchai ....

26.41

68°

J'

J)

T)

3,367

10 ,.

Ou-mou (banks of the Ou-

long Ho)

28.89

82°

29.92

64°.4o

)T

1,063

>j >»

Pin-ngantchai (banks of the

Ou-long Ho) .

28.70

73°-4o

J»

J)

J3

987

i68

APPENDIX A

,

At same Date.

0

,-~. d)

Dates.

Places of Observation.

•s.
c3

~ 0

s s

1

ZJ

s

"S

3 t«

"1

= E

3

^

i

1^

ZJ c
P c

S«

(S

a.

S

s s

I

895.

Feet.

II

March

Col crossing chain between
the Ou-long Ho and the

Red River .

26.81

95°

30.CO

66''.2o

23°

3j278

jj

n

Banks of the Red River

near Lou-ping

28.77

91'

J)

>>

)J

1,204

12

>)

Col between Maicheu and

Toute ....

28.03

JJ

))

69°.8o

JJ

1.978

13

))

ha

26.37

8o°.6o

29.84

7S°.20

JJ

3j58i

14

J)

Souto ....

25.00

78°.8o

29.80

))

JJ

5jo88

15

))

Long-ti ....

24.09

68°

29.88

69°. 80

JJ

6j09S

16

)»

Col above Long-ti (route

from Tchimpou)

23-38

J)

30.11

6o°.8o

JJ

6,942

)»

>)

Tayang-Ka

24.80

71°. 60

J)

?)

JJ

5j497

17

)»

Highest point on route,

Tayang-ka to Tchekou .

23-58

46°.40

30.27

50°

JJ

6,733

J?

»»

Tchekou ....

24-25

?>

?J

J)

JJ

6,053

18

JJ

Col crossing chain of separa-
tion between the Red

River and the Nam-na .

23-38

52°

30-23

53°-6o

JJ

7j073

>J

)j

Banks of the Nam-na .

24.80

7i°.6o

T)

JJ

JJ

5.569

19

))

Chain separating the Nam-

na from the Ni-lung Ho .

23-70

47°

30.19

64^.40

J)

6,666

1)

>j

Passage of the Ni-lung

Ho ... .

25-31

68°

?»

J)

JJ

4.957

20

J)

Col in the chain dividing
the Ni-lung Ho from the

t

La-ka Ho

23.11

57°-2o

30-15

66''.2o

JJ

7,445

)J

ij

Passage of the La-ka Ho .

25-98

68°

>)

yj

»

4,226

22

J)

Col between the La-ka Ho

and the Laniou Ho

24.96

64°.4o

30. 11

60°. 80

JJ

5.278 \

5»

J)

Passage of the Laniou Ho .

26.73

JJ

)>

)»

JJ

3.354 ,

)I

JJ

Col between the Laniou Ho

and the Pa-san Ho

24.21

62°. 60

J>

JJ

„

6,125

24

J)

; Passage of the Pa - san

Ho ... .

26.41

78°.8o

29.88

68'

JJ

3.S4I

25

JJ

Col between the Pa-san Ho
and the Lysien Kiang

1

(Black River) .

25-94

8o°.6o

29-92

69^.80

22°

4,114

»»

JJ

Passage of the Black River .

28.03

89°.6o

JJ

>>

JJ

1,890

26

JJ

Tian-si ....

25-43

7S°-2o

29.88

»

JJ

4,624

2 A

569

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

U

At same Date.

Dates.

Places of Observation.

1

1

Ic 1

■§2

sO
E

1

3

— to

V C

Is

."

HS

1895.

Feet.

27 March

Col between Tian-si and the
Mote Ho, large affluent

of Black River

24.48

75°-2o

29.88

73°-40

22*

5.734

») ))

Passage of the Mote Ho .

26.10

68'

j»

»»

»»

3-867

28 „

Muong-Le ....

26.25

75°-20

30.07

Sf'^o

tt

3.845

3° ..

Col between Muong-Le and

Pi ma tchai .

25-70

60°

3019

68''

»»

4,486

)t )»

Passage of the Mote Ho or

Mong-ie-tsin Ho

27.12

75°-2o

ij

>»

^*

3.044

I April

Ta-chai (banks of the Men-

ling Ho)

26.22

69°

30.07

)»

)»

3.902

Col crossing the chain divid-
ing the basins of the Red

River and the Mekong .

25-39

if

30.00

7i°.6o

23"

4.799

T) J)

Highest point on route Im-

poutsin to Kale

24.21

64°. 40

»)

»»

n

6,096

3 n

Near Chen-Lao (passage of

the Cheun-long Ho)

26.69

8o°.6o

29.96

73°-40

„

3,344

5 "

Col between the Cheun-long

Ho and the Man-lo Kiang

24.96

86'

29.80

75"-2o

»»

3.867

6 „

Ssumao ....

25-59

84°. 20

29.92

78°.8o

n

4,568

II

1 Undulating plateau near

i Tchin-oue (mean altitude)

'T

73°-40

30.1 1

69°.8o

4,667

13 ,.

1 Passage of the Lan-gan Ho

26.57

82°.40

ji

73°-4o

i»

3.630

14

Breach in Talo Mts. .

25-39

78°.8o

30.00

75°.2o

>i

4,825

IS .,

Long-Tang

26.37

)j

29.92

7i°.6o

»)

3,633

16 „

Col between Long-Tang and

the Long-Tang Ho .

26.06

84°. 20

))

if

»»

4.025

11 >i

Col between the Long-Tang

Ho and the Tiou-fan Ho

25-27

82°. 40

t)

..

5»

4,911

17 ,.

Col between the Tiou-fan

Ho and the Mekong

25-03

81°

»)

8o".6o

,,

S,'97

18 „

Bank of the Mekong at

Tian-pi ....

27-55

75°.2o

29.96

if

)»

2,419

)) »)

Ta Choui-chong

24-33

Sq''.6o

30.00

»»

))

4,706

19 „

Lapatchin ....

26.33

73°-4o

29.96

»»

24

3.685

23 -.

Passage of the Heu Ho

27-48

78°

29.88

n

J)

2,441

)) J)

Lalichin ....

25-47

82°.40

»

ij

»)

4,648

» M

Col between Lalichin and

Meng-pou

24.40

78°.8o

»)

Ji

II

5,405

370

APPENDIX A

At same Date.

I.

8
•0

if
'a

^ to

Dates.

Places of Observation.

a c

—' ba

s

5

So

5§
1^

2

<

0

""o

OJ c

^ 0

S 0

1) rt

0.

1895-

Feet.

23 April

Me/ig-Foit ....

25-19

77°

29.88

77°

24° 4,937

24 ..

Col between Meng-pou and

^

Chouen-lo

24.21

)j

J>

71°. 60

6,059

25

Col between Chouen-lo and

the Mekong .

24.17

))

»)

68°

JJ

6,085

)» >J

Bank of the Mekong near

Nampe ....

27.44

8o°.6o

»J

JJ

JJ

2,454

26 „

Col whence the plain of

Mong-Pan came in view .

25.27

7i''.6o

29.92

73°-4°

JJ

4,838

)J ))

Mong-Pan ....

25.98

75°-2o

))

>J

'>

4,060

27 >.

Col between Mong-Pan and

the Lan Kiou Ho .

24.96

78°.8o

29.96

)J

JJ

5,273

)» >J

Passage of the Lan Kiou

Ho ... .

25-59

»J

It

5J

J)

4,555

)> »>

Col between the Lan Kiou

Ho and Mang Kai .

24.60

77°

)?

)J

JJ

5,52°

28 „

Summit of plateau between

Mang Kai and Mong-Ka

24.72

76°

29.80

78°.8o

JJ

5,411

)> J)

Mong-Ka ....

26.33

80°. 60

))

)j

JJ

3,597

30 "

Col between Mong-Ka and

the Mekong .

23-38

73°-4o

29.92

8o°.6o

11

6,543

I May

Bank of the Mekong at

Tapong ....

27.36

78°.8o

JJ

JJ

JJ

2,603

)j ))

Col between the Mekong

and the Latung Ho

24-33

72°

JJ

JJ

,, ■ 5>76o

J) J)

First passage of the Latung

1

Ho near Latung

25-55

73°- 40

JJ

JJ

JJ

4,571

2 „

Touko ....

24.40

75°.20

29.88

JJ

JJ

5,869

J) j>

Col between Touko and

Pochan ....

23-34

77°

„

JJ

J,

7,172

jj ))

Pochan ....

24.29

>j

JJ

)j

JJ

6,020

25 April

Chouen-lo ....

25.86

..

JJ

6S°

JJ

4,137

)) n

Passage of the Tatchio-tou

Ho ... .

24.88

80^60

)J

JJ

JJ

5,242

j> >»

Col between the Tatchio-tou

Ho and Tachin

24-52

)J

JJ

J)

JJ

5,692

26 „

Col between Tachin and

Tiou-pou-fang

23-3^^

73°-40

29.92

73°-40

JJ

7,086

28 „

Passage of the Sekiang near

the Mekong .

23.42

7 8°. 80

29.80

78°.8o

JJ

2,496

0/

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Dates.

1895.
29 April

I May

3 ,.

7 ..

9
10
II

14 ,,

15 ..

16 „

17 .,

18 „

21

»

23

}}

»

J»

24

)l

Places of Observation.

Col Ijetween the Sekiang
and the Tchen-chi Ho .

Tamano ....

Col between Tamano and
the district of Linguen

Passage of the Linguen Ho

Alienning ....

Col crossing the chain of
separation between the
Salwen and Mekong
basins ....

Col crossing the great chain
directly overhanging the
Mekong

Pan-tong-ka

Ta-cheu-tou-kai .

Manto (banks of the Mong-
ma Ho)

Tcheya (banks of the Mong-
ma Ho) ....

Col between the sources of

the Mong-ma Ho and

Yiinchou

Yiinchou .

Lotan

Chuni!itis;-Fou

Col crossing chain whence
the Pe Hsiao Ho de-
scends ....

Bank of the Mekong (bridge
of the Tilung Kiang)

Col crossing the chain which
bounds the Mekong on
the N

Mon-tian-cho

Col in the chain on left flank
of the Yang-pi-kiang

Passage of the Kou-lo Ho .

Col in the chain above the
plain of Meng-hua-ting .

o
u

P3

23-5°
24.17

23.07
24.56

25-°7

22.79

22.40

25-31
24.68

24.88

24.60

23-03
26.10
25.07
24.48

22.7 I
26.37

22.00
25-55

23.18
24.60

22.44

o.

At same Date.

78°.8o

77°

70

62°.6o
75°.2o
71°. 60

73°-4°

82°. 40
84°. 20
8o''.6o
77°

62°. 60
78°.8o

8o°.6o
66°.2o

s s

c

78°.8o ' 29.88 75°.20
73°.4o 29.92 8o°.6o

30.00

29.84

29.92
29.88

29.96
29.80

29.71
29.64

b. o

si

86°

77"
78°.8o

75'-2o
7i°.6o
8o°.6o

29.92 ; 71°. 60

29.88 73°.40

62°. 60

78°.8o 29.76 j 8o°.6o

29.92 I 68°

24

25

Feet.

6,952
6,178

7.531
S.740
5,207

7,776

8,262
4,803
5,565

5,445

5,549

7,531
3,834
4,957
5,584

7,818
3,604

8,688
4,443

7,340
5,549

8,294

372

APPENDIX A

s

At same Dale.

H

Dates.

Places of Observation.

'^ 0

rt

if

1

3

3

5^ ^

j__ 0

eS

oJ

=0

^ £

5 rt

J

<

£

1"^

|<

2 c

1

'ii
0.

s

0

P5

a. a>

1895.

Feet.

25 May

Ta Chang (plain of Meng-

hua) ....

24.09

78'.8o

29.76

69°.8o

25°

6,087

26 „

Col separating plains of

Meng-hua and 'rali-Fou .

21.88

57°..2o

29.60

78°.8o

»»

8,589

27 ..

Tali-Foil ....

23-34

69°.8o

29.80

75°-2o

»»

7,007

18 June

Col between Teng-chouan-

cheou and Fong-Yu

21. 8r

68°

29.88

89°.6o

J)

9-150

19 ..

Col between Fong-Vu and

Kiang-pin

20.59

59°

29.76

»)

>»

10,556

21 „

Kiang-pin ....

23-54

75''.2o

29.80

86°

26°

6,784

)» n

Col between the Yang-pi

and Kouang-pin

21.41

62°.6o

79

}J

))

9.447

«'5

1) 0

^ >-»

i; 5 X

22 „

Col between Kouang-pin

l\

r- 5
1^

and the Pi-kiang

22.08

68°

29.80

82°.40

J»

8,607

23 »

Yiin Lottg Cheoit

24.64

80°. 60

29.71

87°.8o

„

5,504

25 ..

Col between Yiin Long

Cheou and the Mekong .

21.41

59°

29.52

86°

1)

9,213

)J J»

Bank of the Mekong at Fey-

long-kiao

25.66

75°.2o

))

J)

))

4,082

27 ,.

Col in the chain of separa-
tion between the Mekong

and Salwen basins .

20.98

55°-40

29.71

84°.2o

)i

9.937

30 ..

Bank of the .Salwen at

Loukou Lotsolo

26.77

84°. 20

29.56

89°.6o

))

2,872

8 July

Lotsolo ....

24.01

71°. 60

29.80

82°.4o

>»

6,250

12 „

Col in the chain of separa-
tion between the Mekong

and Salwen basins .

19.21

66°.2o

29.76

86°

))

11,823

14 ,,

Bank of the Mekong at

Piaotsen

25-31

68°

)J

89°.6o

»»

4,703

15 ..

Tono ....

24.88

77°

29.71

87°.8o

»>

5.216

37.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

4J

At same Date.

0

■a

s

•5 =■

Dates.

Places of Observation.

0)

^l
-%

e(F;
moy
hai.

Ti

S

■c
s

g

0

CI]

m

Temperature
of Ob

Barometer
Amoy or S

Temperatur

Mean at A

Shang

1

<

1895.

Feet.

17 July

Hekipa

22.75

if

29.68

87°.8o

26°

7,821

18 „

Tatsasu

25.00

fc2''.40

j>

»)

))

5,°54

23 >.

Ta Hsiao Chouan

23-58

78°.8o

29.64

82°.4o

»»

6,672

24 ..

Tsiten

21.65

75°-2o

29.68

84". 20

)»

8,818

25 »

Keuntinkien

22.51

if

29.84

86°

J>

8,225

26 „

Feoutsen .

23-5°

82°.4o

29.80

84°.20

»)

6,961

28.,,

Tie Ho .

23.70

69°.8o

29.71

87 .80

»>

6,575

30 ..

In Cliouan

23.22

if

29.88

86°

27°

7,348

31 ..

Sin-tchan-pin

23-74

84°.20

J)

»

J)

6,698

'

03

.c'«

B

01 J=

f, ■

'J. M

qj 1=

— C

5'^

II
0

I Aug.

Toti ....

23-54

75°.2o

1

h2

)>

6,926

29.88

87°.8o

2 ,,

Tolo ....

23.97

78°.8o

29.84

82°.40

»)

6,382

5 ..

Bank of the Mekong neai

Sianpin-chouan

24.64

77°

29.68

89°.6o

)»

5.456

7 >.

Lameti

23-97

8o°.6o

29.71

86°

»J

6,301

8 „

Lometi

24-52

73°-4o

29.68

)J

>)

5,552

9 ..

Loza ....

23-5°

75°.20

29.60

87°.8o

))

6,740

12 „

Lo Kieou (banks of Mekong

24.29

78°.8o

29.80

78°.8o

)}

5,941

17 ..

Banks of the Mekong nea

Gocha .

24.17

84°. 20

29.76

8o°.6o

)>

6,100

J) »)

Dekou

24.05

69'.8o

J)

82°.4o

)9

6,155

20 „

Tsekou

23-85

8o°.6o

29.84

86°

28°

6,559

24 „

Gotra

23.46

75°.20

29.64

84°.20

5>

6,801

26 „

Kiuchu

20.90

62°.6o

29.80

78°.8o

»»

10,135

27 >,

Atentsc

20.27

5i°-8o

29.92

86°

J)

1 1,060

28 „

Yan-kan-go

23.07

69°.8o

29.88

73°-4o

5J

7,373

14 Sept.

Col in the chain of separa
tion between the basin
of the Mekong and tht
Salwen (beneath Peal

Francis Gamier)

18.89

37°-4o

29.96

8o°.6o

»»

12,860

i/4

APPENDIX A

B

At same Date.

1

0

■A

Dates.

Places of Observation.

0
1^

II

S-~ '*" H

•0

<

a.

2

2 « 1

S

rt

1

1895.

*

Feet.

16 Sept.

First passage of the river

Donyon ....

22.55

57°-2o

29.92 75°.2o

28°

7.998

18 „

Meuradon (banks of the

Donyon)

23-74

66'.2o

30.07 73°.4o

6,751 1

19 »

Col between the Donyon

1

and the Salwen

21.92

71°. 60

3°-i> 1

9,101

20 „

Banks of the Sahven near

Tionra ....

25.11

75'.2o

30.15 69'. 80

S.I 93

24 „

Banks of the Salwen at

Djewan ....

»>

7i°.6o

29-92 73°-4o

S.019

28 „

Col in the chain separating
the Salwen from the Poula

Ho ... .

18.93

5°;

30.03 7i°.6o

12,896

29 >.
5 Oct.

Tamalo ....
Col in the Mongon-ko chain

23.42
19.96

64°. 40

30.00 64^.40

6,886
8,341

5i°.8o

Barometric and

TJ >)

Banks of the Seke Lon

21.69

n

Thermometric

9,295

7 „

Col in the chain of separa-
tion between the basins

Mean for the
Month of October

of the Salwen and the
Irawadi . . . _ .

19.80

46°.40

at Amoy.

8,406

29.96

77°

9 ..

Toulong ....

24.92

68°

5.401

13 ..

First passage of the Kiou-

kiang or Tourong .

25.62

64°. 40

4,460

16 „

Deidoum ....

24.29

69°.8o

6,027

19 ..

Banks of the Kiou-kiang
near the confluence of

the Laonatsi .

26.25

62°. 60

3,762

21 „

Highest point on route from

Deidoum to Tukiu Mu .

20.94

53°-6o

10,121

22 „

Passage of the river Tetchen

25.00

59°

5.114

30 ..

Col between Tukiu Mu and

Mandoum

25-59

66. 20

4.512

)» )»

Passage of the river Dublu

at its confluence with the
river Telo

26.96

53°6o

57°-20

2,972

Do. Do.

2 Nov.

Col in the chain separating
the river Telo from the
river Reunnam (Sinbinti)

22.47

for the Month of
November.

8,146

30-03

68°

s ..

Confluence of the Wan-ou

and the Reunnam .

28.07

68°

1,909

375

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Dates.

I'laces of Oliservation.

0

1

B
H

So

a

a.
E

Barometric and

Thcrmometric

Mean for the

Month of November

at Amoy.

Latitudes.

Altitudes. |

1

i 1S95.
8 Nov.

Col between the Reunnam

Feet.

and the Tsan (Dzon
Redzi) ....

22.47

S7°-2o

2B°

8,146

10 „

Bank.s of the T.san

28.11

)>

"

1,867

16 „

Col in the Leket chain be-
tween the rivers Tsan and

Nam Kiou

24.96

73''-40

)J

5.178

19 ..

Passage of the Nam Kiou .

28.81

)»

27°

1,185

20 „

Khamti ....

»»

)»

)1

J)

26 „

Col in the chain separating
the basins of the Nam

Kiou and the Nam Lang

25-55

S7"'.2o

J»

4,545

29 „

Passage of the Nam Lang .

27.79

55°-40

J)

2,179

I Dec.

Col Nam Tsai Boum .

23-85

57°.2o

J>

6,487

Col between the Ouepoukot

and the Nam Phungan .

23-30

53"-6o

T>

7.063

3 >.

Bank of the Nam Phungan

25-78

5i'.8o

))

4,278

8 „

Col of the Phungan Boum .

20.94

37°-4o

30.11

59°

JJ

9,888

9 "

Bank of the Nam Dapha .

24.72

44°.6o

»)

5>42i

II „

Summit of the chain of

separation between the
Dihing and the Dapha .

21-57

4 2 .80

>»

9-150

13 „

First passage of the Nam
Dihing ....

28.18

6o°.8o

»>

1,849

17 ..

Daphagang

28.34

66°. 20

)»

1,701

L In column i are given the corrected barometric pressures with allowance for
tide and for the error of the aneroid. The latter was obtained from hypsometric
observations taken at least once a week and oftener in all important places. My
two hypsometers were supplied by Baudin, and their slight zero error was measured
at the start and verified at the finish. To guard against sudden variations in the
aneroids, such as might be caused by a blow, I nearly always had two about me, and
took simultaneous readings for every altitude. Thanks to these constant comparisons,
I can vouch for the exactness of the corrected pressures to within .05905 of an inch.

APPENDIX A

At Ssumao, Tali-Fou, and Atentse I was able to compare my altitudes with those
given by other travellers, with the subjoined satisfactory result : —

Feet. Feet.

Ssumao . . . 4,568 . . . 4.542 (Francis Gamier).

„ ,. ,, ( 6,078 (Francis Gamier).

Tali-rou . . . 7,007 . . • ■ /T. V. V

" ' ( 7)07° (Baber).

Atents^ . . . 11,060 . . . 1 1,000 (Captain Gill).

II. Column 2 gives the temperature at the moment of the observation, taken
with a sling thermometer of Baudin's.

III. Columns 3 and 4 contain the mean barometric pressure and temperature
at sea-level on the same date as the observation. I selected Hong-Kong, Amoy,
and Shanghai for base, according as our route lay nearest to their respective latitudes.
The readings were kindly furnished by M. Bourgeois, chancellor of the French
Consulate at Hong-Kong, who caused the daily meteorological bulletins of the coast
of China from February to October to be forwarded to Paris ; after ist October I
received only the monthly mean.

IV. In column 5 will be found the degree of latitude nearest to the place of
observation which enters into the calculations for the correction of temperature.

V. Lastly, column 6 gives the altitudes calculated after the Radau Tables based
on the formula of Laplace. The readings at the point of observation enter simul-
taneously into the calculation with the corresponding ones under the same parallel
by the seashore. They are not laid down as correct to a foot, because one cannot be
sure of the local variations in pressure being identical at Hong-Kong and in Yiinnan ;
but, speaking generally, the monthly changes follow the same laws of increase and
decrease, — maximum pressure in January, minimum in July, — the amplitude reaching
the mean figure of .59055 inch, about 492 feet. Besides that this is the method most
universally employed by travellers, it must be owned that one has no better base at
one's disposal for disengaging the absolute altitude from the observed pressure. The
process of calculation being clearly set forth in the preface to the Radau Tables (Paris,
Gauthier-MUars), I abstain from reproducing it here.

P.\RIS, \llh June 1896.

V. REMARKS ON THE METHODS USED FOR FIXING THE
PRINCIPAL POSITIONS ON THE MAP

I. Manhao (point of departure)

Latitude = 23° 00' 30" N. Astronomical observations.

Longitude = 100° 54' E. F'ollowing the map of the staff, 1/200,000, published
by the Topographic Service of Hanoi (page Mongtse), showing the labours of the
Frontier Delimitation Commission.

2. S.SU.\IAO

Latitude = 22° 46' 30" N. Astronomical observations.

Longitude = 98° 42' 30" E. This longitude is the mean of the three following : —
(i) That given by my estimated distance: 98' 37'.

(2) That given by my astronomical observations : 98° 47' 30".

(3) That given by Francis Gamier's observations: 98° 43'.

(F'or the advantage of this mode of adoption, see the observations at the end of
the list of longitudes, supra.)

377

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

3. Tali-Fou

Latitude = 25° 42' 30" N. Astronomical observations.

Longitude = 98' 3' 45" E. This longitude is the mean of the three following: —

(i) That given by my estimated distance, taking Ssumao as point of
departure : 98° 4' 30".

(2) That given by my astronomical observations : 97° 59'.

(3) That given by Francis (iarnier's observations: 97° 8'.

4. Atentsk

(No astronomical observations owing to theft of instruments.)
Latitude = 28° 28' N. This latitude is the mean between —
(i) My estimated latitude: 28° 29'.
(2) Latitude on Gill's map corrected: 28^ 27'.
In his map Captain Clill makes 28° 23' the latitude of Atentse. But as he did not
take astronomical ob.servations, I am of opinion that this should be altered 4', for the
following considerations : He places Batang on his map at latitude 29° 53' 50",
whereas its real latitude, observed with the sextant by P'ather Desgodins, is 30' 00' ;
his latitude of Tali, on the other hand, is identical with that given by ( larnier and
verified by myself. There is thus an error of 6' 10" on the Batang-Tali length, and
by interpolation (Batang, Atentse, and Tali being practically on the same line) an
error of 4' on the Atentse-Tali length ; the real latitude of Gill ought therefore to be
considered as 4' more N., which gives 28' 27'. That adopted by CJeneral Walker in
his map of Thibet is 28' 30'.

Longitude = 97° 00' E., being the mean between —

(i) My longitude estimated starting from position adopted for Tali : 97° 00'.
(2) The longitude adopted by General \Valker in his map of Thibet
(July 1894): 97^ 00'.
A\'hich, as is seen, happen exactly to coincide.

5. Kii.A.MTi (Padao, capital of the country)

Latitude = 27' 22' 30" N. Observed by Colonel Woodthorpe. (My own latitude,
estimated after two months and a half without any guiding marks, was 27° 28' 30", or
only 6' difference. The most recent maps of Assam place Khamti in 27° 24' N.
latitude. But I have thought it better to maintain that of Col. Woodthorpe.)

Longitude = 97' 30' 45" E. of (ireenwich, or 97° 31' (95° 11' E. of Paris). I have
adopted this figure from the following considerations : —

Between Khamti and Daphagang (point of arrival on my map, close to the con-
fluence of the Dihing and the Dapha, which appears in the geodesic survey of the
positions in Assam) the distance estimated by Col. Woodthorpe is . . 55' 35"

According to my own estimation this same distance should be . . .1° 00' 35"

Mean . 58' 05"

By carrying this mean difference to the east of Daphagang (96" 32' 40") I obtain
97° 30' 45", the longitude adopted.

(On arrival at Khamti after two and a half months' march, my estimated longitude
was 97° 33' 15" E. of Greenwich, while that of Col. Woodthorpe, starting from Assam,
was 97° 28' 15"; or only 5' difference at the point of coincidence on a total route of
3° 30' in longitude.)

6. D.\PH.\GANG (point of arrival)

Latitude =27° 29' 10" N.

Longitude = 96' 32' 40" E. (Greenwich). Following Col. Woodthorpe and the
maps of Assam.

APPENDIX A
METEOROLOGICAL TABLES AND DAILY LOG

OF

M. EMILE ROUX
Enseigne de Vaisseau

PART I. TONKIN TO TALI-FOU

Place of

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

Winci

Date.

Observation.

c

0

CI

Weather.

Remarks.

X

_C

tJ

^

rt

(2

1895.

7

Feb.

Bac-Sat (Red
R. Tonkin)

S.E.

2

Overcast.

Junk on Red R. Laokay to
Manhao.

8

JJ

On Red R. .

69°

59°

>)

3

Very fine;
overcast
at night.

9

75°

62°

N.E.

2

10

Manhao (Yiin-
nan)

71°

66°

E.

4

Cloudy.

loth to 13th, stay at Manhao.

1 1

))

))

S.E.

J)

Light
clouds.

12

77°

64°

0

Very fine.

13

82°

66°

E.

2

Overcast

at night.

14

Kan-tan-tse .

»5

51°

0

Very fine.

Manhao to Kan-tan-tse, 2 m.
beyond Ho-Teou.

15

Sin-chai .

J»

50°

S.

2

>)

Kan-tan-tse to Sin-chai.

16

Mongtse

77°

J)

S.E.

3

71

Sin-chai to Mongtse. i6th to
26th, stay at Mongtse.

17

...

73°

5)

»)

4

11

[Obs.— On the plateau of

18

...

if

51°

»)

3

11

Mongtse the wind blows

19

73°

53"

»)

j»

chiefly from the S. and S.E.,

20

75°

JJ

s.w.

4

Fine.

weakly in the morning, more

21

>)

J'

S.E.

2

11

strongly at night. Climate

22

73°

>»

s.

4

11

in winter very fine and dry.

23

75°

)»

E.N.E.

j»

11

Temperature equable.]

24

if

51^

0

11

' Maximum represents highest temperature recorded during day; Minimum shows lowest do. , in place where the-
night was passed, as marked in parallel column against the date.

- The values of the force of the wind are those in use in seacoast and meteorological returns : from o (calm) to lo-
(hurricane).

379

FROM TOxNKIN TO INDIA

Place of

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

Wind.

Date.

Observation.

c

Weather.

Remarks.

>i

c

0

4J
0

C3

t»

^

S

3

1

1895.

25 Feb.

75°

55°

S.

2

Fine.

26 „

73°

53°

S.W.

4

J)

27 „

Long - choui-
tieou

!H

5°°

S.

3

Cloudy ;

heavy
showers.

Mongtse to Long-choui-tieou.

28 „

Ho-teou

»)

57°

0

Very fine.

Long-choui-tieou to Ho-teou.

I March

Panther Camp

?»

60°

))

))

Cross Red R. by ferry.

•>

Lou-tche-hsien

»)

44°

S.W.

3

Fine day.

Thick fog

at night.

Lou-tche-hsien, a I'oula village,
12 miles.

, 3 >,

Sha-ha-te

»>

46°

0

Fog.

Sha-ha-te, Chinese village, 3 m.

4 „

Fong-chen-lin

„

50°

J)

))

Chinese village, 15 ni.

5 ..

Sinka

J>

>)

E.

4

Fog till

noon; then

fine.

Chinese village, 1 1 m.

6 „

Ouong-choupe

n

J)

N.VV.

3

Fog till 10

a.m. ; then

fine.

Chinese village, 9 m.

7 n

Tamatolo

)»

)>

0

Very fine.

Chinese village, 7 m.

8 „

))

)5

)»

))

Halt at Tamatolo.

9 ,,

Sin-chai.

9''

51°

S.E.

4

Burning
sky, and
wind like

sirocco.

T. to S., 7 m. Chinese village.

10 „

Pin-ngan-chai

82°

59°

j»

5

J)

P. (Pais or Laotians), 9 m.

u „

Louping

98°

66°

}}

I

Very fine.

P. to L. (Chine-se), 15 m.

12 „

Tou-te .

)>

62°

0

Very fine.

Lowering ;

storm at

night.

L. to T. (Chinese), 17 m.

13 ,.

Isa

84°

60°

W.

2

Very fair.

T. to I. (small Chinese town;
about 2000 inhabitants).

14 „

Souto .

82°

57°

)I

I

>)

L to S. (Chinese), 8 m.

15 ,>

Long-ti .

80°

»)

0

)}

S. to L. (small Chinese town,
about 1500 inhab.), 12 m.

16 „

Ta-yang-ka .

75°

46°

>)

»j

L. to T. (Chinese), 8 m.

17 ,,

Tchekou

5'

50'

JJ

Thick fog.

Ta. to Teh. (Lolos), 8 m.

18 „

Lami

JJ

48°

s.

3

Cold,
damp fog.

Teh. to L. (Hou-Nis), 11 m.

19 .,

Sou-tchou-sai .

68°

50°

0

Fog.

L. to S. (Chinese), 13 m.

20 „

Malo .

71°

57°

s.s.w.

2

>»

S. to M. (Lolos), 9 m.

21

68°

59°

»J

1

Stormy,
showery.

Halt at M.

;8o

APPENDIX A

Date.

Place of
Observation.

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

Wind.

Weather.

Remarks.

c

i<

^

0

nj

<j

s

^

5

^

1895-
22 March

Pitchu .

64°

5°°

0

Rain.

M. to P. (Hou-Nis), gh m.
Time, 3 hrs. 47 min. By col
above Malo. Across the
Laniouho ; ford difficult.
Across an affluent of the
Laniouho.

23 ..

Sama

J»

53°

s.

3

Overcast.

P. to S. ( Hou-Nis), 9 m. : 3 hrs.
By Loko-sai (Chinese ham-
let) and Xiho (Hou-Ni
village).

24 ,>

Pan-hou-tse .

86'

57"

0

Very fair.

S. to P. (Hou-Nis), i3i m.:
4 hrs. By Kampi Yangtse
and Loma (Hou-Nis). Cross
the Pasan-Ho.

25 »

Li-sian-pou-tou

89°

60°

n

))

P. to S. (two Hou-Ni houses),
9 m.; 3 J hrs. By Katchou
(Hou-Nis) and Matran
(Hatous). Cross the Black
R. (Lysien-kiang) in sam-
pan.

26 „

Tian-si .

87"

J)

s.w.

2

T)

L. to T. (Hou-Nis), gi m. : 3^
hrs. By Kou-ta-fan (Hou-
Nis) and Vutaipo.

27 >.

Mote

84°

T)

s.s.w.

1)

)J

T. to M. (Chinese), 17 m. ; 3^
hrs. By Leang - sou - tchai
(Hou-Ni). Cross the Lo-
ma-ho by ford (affluent of
Lysien-kiang, shallow, wide
bed, important in rainy
season). Over chain be-
tween the Lo-ma-Ho and
the Mo-te Ho (source of
the Mong-ie-tsin Ho, con-
siderable affluent of Lysien-
kiang).

28 „

Muong-le

n

55°

»)

)»

Mo. to Mu. (small Chinese
town, about 2000 inhab.), 4f
m. ; 2 hrs. Cross the Mo-
te Ho. By Mali-sou-tchai
(Chinese) and Patchi
(Chinese).

29 >.

...

77°

if

»

)1

Halt at Muong-le.

381

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Place of

Thermometer

( Fahr. ).

Wind.

Dale.

Observation.

c

Weather.

Remarks.

X

C

tJ

^

i<

Uh

1895.

30 March

Keu-ma-tse

68"

57"

w.

2

Fair.

M. to K. (Chinese), 11 m. ;
3f hrs. By Pima-tchai
(Chinese village). Ford,
depth 15 in., over the Mong-
ie-tsin Ho, called here the
Mong-ou-kiang. Country
little inhabited.

31 n

Ta-koue-lin

71'

60°

0

Fine, hazy.

K. to T. (Pais), 12 m. ; 4] hrs.
Ford over the Men-ling Ho,
affluent of the Mong-ie-tsin
Ho. By Tsoun-chai (Pais),
followed the Men-ling Ho to
Hatien (Pais).

I April

Ta-tchai

77°

5.S°

J)

2

Cloudy.
Lightning ;
much hail.

Tak. to Tat. (Chinese), 8 m. ;
3 hrs. Up the Men-ling Ho,
which crossed several times.
By Soun-tchai (Pais).

2

Blue Bird Camp

82"

48°

w.s.^v.

3)

Very fair.

T. to Camp B. B., 1 3i m.; 5 hrs.
Follow up the Men-ling Ho
past three Pai villages.
Crossed chain dividing the
Men-ling Ho and the Nam-
bang, also the basins of Me-
kong and Red Rivers. By
Impoutsin (large Chin. vill.).

3 >>

Tchen-lao

88"

47"

0

Fair. Op-
pressive.

Camp B.B. to T. (Pais), 10 m. ;
3-^ hrs. Across chain above
the Chen-long Ho or Nam-
bang. Up left bank by
Ho-Kale (Chinese).

4 ,,

Camp, Fen-
chiu-lin

9'"

51°

)»

4

Very fair.

T. to Camp F. (Pais), 9 m. ;
3 hrs. Across the Chen-
long Ho. Right bank,
narrow gorge. Rich valley
of Ta-ping, thickly popu-
lated (Chinese).

5 ..

Potso .

Sf

))

>)

2

)»

Camp F. to P. (Chinese),
14 m.; 5 hrs. Traversed .
chain between the C. Long
Ho and the Poueul Ho.
By Moun - pa - to - lo (large
Lolo village). Country well
wooded and watered.

APPENDIX A

Date.

Place of
Observation.

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

Wind

Weather.

Remarlis.

c

c

.2

u
u

<u

0

S

^

'r^

^

1— 1

1895-

6 April

Ssumao .

86'

51°

0

Very fair.

!'. to S. (Chinese town, of
10,000 inhabitants), 19 m. ;
5^ hrs. Entered plain of
Ssumao, p.m.

7 »

87°

»)

)J

n

From 6th to loth, halt at
Ssumao.

8 „

86'

60'

>»

n

9 ..

)J

59°

»)

Storm,
5 p.m.

10

78°

»

M

Storm,
6 p.m.

ri

Tchin-oue

If

55°

w.

2

Rain.

S. to T. (Chinese), 8i m. ;
3 hrs. Crossed the Tou-
ti-tchiao by stone bridge,
crossed the Mole Ho,
affluents of the Poueul
Ho and Nam-bang respect-
ively. Left the plain.

12

'I'a-ou-tse-son .

))

>>

0

Overcast.

Teh. to T. (Chinese), 6 m.;
2^ hrs. Undulating plateau, ,
fir forests.

13 ,.

Ko-tchien-to .

82°

57°

)»

Fair.

r. to K. (Chinese), 11 m.;
3ihrs. Crossed the Lanngan
Ho, affluent of the Poueul
Ho. By Ouit - tse - chai 1
(Chinese).

14 V

Kouen-fong .

78'

53°

)>

I

Very fair.

!<.. to Kouen (Pais), 5 m.;
i^ hr. Across great lime-
stone chain of Talo Moun-
tains by a depressed col
656 yds. wide and i m. long.

15 "

Longtang

86'

60°

0

Fair. Op-
pressive.

K. to L. (two large Pai vil-
lages), 7 m.; 2i hrs. \Vater-
less desert.

16

Tiou-fan

91'

62"

s.w.

I

>»

L. to T. (Chinese name,
Ssen-song), 10 m. ; 3^ hrs. -
Crossed the Long-tang-ho.
By three or four Chinese
villages i country bare.

17

No-tcha .

87°

>>

>i

4

Fair.
Cloudy.

T. to N. (Chinese), 10 m. : '
lihr. By Chiaotse (Chin-
ese). Fir forests.

383

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Date.

Place of
Observation.

Thermometer

(Kahr.).

\Vind.

Weather.

Remarks.

d

X

c

_o

cd

0

s

'■s.

£J

1

5

1895.

18 April

Ta-choui-chong

96°

66°

s.w.

3

Fair. N. to T. (Chinese), 8 m.; 3 hr.s.
; Steep descent to the Me-

kong, crossed by ferry —

mean width, 153 yds. ; cur-

rent, 2 m. an hour ; temp.,

66°; no rapids in sight;

depth uncertain, but con- 1

siderable.

19 ..

Lapatchin

>)

)i

„

)f

)»

T. to L. (Chinese), 17 m. ;

5I hrs. By Dayakeu (small

Chinese town, 700 in-

.

habitants : residence of a

mandarin). |

19th to 22nd, halt at Lapat-

chin. No observations.

23 >.

Meng-pou

82°

)»

>J

j»

»>

L. to M. (Lokais), 20 m. ;
6J hrs. Cross the Heu Ho,
affluent of Mekong, by
wooden bridge — width, 2 1
yds.; current, i knot ; depth,

10 ft. By Lalichin (Lolos). |

24 „

Meng-ton

78°

>j

1)

J)

„ Meng-ton (Lokais), 13 m. ; j

5 hrs. By several Lokai |

villages. Cross the chain

between the Lokai Ho

affluent and the Mekong.

By Chuen-lo (small Chinese

town : residence of man-

darin and a Lokai chief).

25 .,

Nampe .

95°

75°

s.

2

„ M. to N. (Chinese), village

j above Mekong right bank,

9 m. ; 3^ hrs. By Tocan

(Chinese and Poula), one

mile before Nampe, very

strong rapid ; navigation

impracticable. Soundings, 1

Mekong, 131 ft.; no bottom. !

26 „

Mong-pan

87°

)J

))

>i

Fair. Sultry.

N. to M. (Pai and Chinese),
20 m. ; 65 hrs. Across river
by ferry. By Ta - Nampe
(Lokais). Entered plain of
Mong-pan. By Pali and
Song-yu-tan (Pai village).

3«4

APPENDIX A

Dale.

Place of
Observation.

1895.
27 April

28 „

Lotchi-sun

Mong-ka

29 ,.

I May

Ta-pong

Kansa

2 „

Pochan .

3 .,

Mienning

Thermometer

(Fahr.).

Wind.

86°

89°

78°

66°

68°

66"

S.

S.W.

W.

62° S.W.

Weather

Fair.

Fair. Slight
showers.

Remark.s.

\^er)- fair.

Fair to
rainy.

2 B

385

M. to L. (Chinese), 12 m.;
4J hrs. Great fir forests.
Crossed the Lan-kiou Ho
near Pampo-tchai (Chinese).

L. to M. (Pais and Chinese),
21 m.: 6 J hrs. Fir forests.
Crossed crest of bluff
separating the Lan-kiou Ho
from plain of Mong-ka,
which entered near Chien-
mao (Pai). Cut the Mong-
ka Ho several times.

Halt at Mong-ka.

M. to T. (Chinese), by right
bank of Mekong, 27 m.;
8i hrs. Firs. Hota-ho
(Chinese) and Ta-mo-ta-ho
(Lokais). Ferry over Me-
kong.

T. to K. (Chinese and Pais),
12m.: 4^ hrs. Stiff ascent,
by Nan-kan and Pai-yuen
(Chinese). Crossed the
Latung Ho, affluent of
Mekong-Latung.

K. to P. (large Chinese town),
18 m.: 6 hrs. Ascended the
Latung Ho. Valley narrow
and wooded. From Touko
(large Chinese village) valley
open, cultivated, and popu-
lated. Crossed chain be-
tween Mekong and the
Salwen, and descended into
valley of Pochan.

P. to M. (Chinese town of
5000 inhabitants ; residence
of sub - prefect), loi m.;
5^ hrs. Continued descent
of valley of the Pochan Ho
(source of the Nansing Ho,
large affluent of Salwen). By.
Poman-tsun and Chui-poun.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Dale.

Place of
Observation.

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

Wind.

Weather.

Remarks.

X

c

tz

,0

i

Q

^

1895.
4 May

...

Halt at Mieniiing.

5 »

Camp False
Route

78°

62°

0

Very fair.

M. to Camp F. R., io| m.;
3i hrs. Descent of valley
of Nansing Ho ; at first
broad and cultivated, en-
closed and wild later.
Camped by river.

. 6 „

1

Pintchou

87°

59°

s.w.

JJ

jj

Camp F. R. to P., 12 m.
Retraced steps to bridge
over Nansing Ho near
Mienning; thence to edge
of plain.

7 >.

Camp of the
Two Basins

J»

5«°

)J

J»

jj

P. to Camp T. B.,i4m.; 4f hrs.
Crossed the chain of separa-
tion between Mekong and
Salwen.

8 „

Tchong-tchun

J)

60°

w.

4

Cloudy.
Rain, p.m.

Camp T. B. to T. (Chinese),
7 m. ; 2i hrs. By the Pai
Ho. Crossed large chain of
hills overhanging Mekong ;
mean altitude, 8887 ft.

9 »

Pan-tong-ka .

»)

66°

0

Very fair.

Rain at

night.

T. to P. (Chinese), 1 3 m.; 4 hrs.
Followed Mekong valley at
mean altitude of 5925 ft.;
height above river, 2800 ft.
By Tamelan, Mempo, and
Nakan.

10 ,>

Ta - cheu - tou-
kai

»)

64°

J)

2

Cloudy.

P. to T. (Chinese), i3i m.;
4^ hrs. As yesterday, by
Pa-nong-kai.

II „

Manto .

)»

J)

))

3

Overcast.

T. to M. (Chinese), 13 m. ;
4 hrs. Descent into valley
of the Mong-ma Ho, affluent
of Mekong. Followed right
bank by Ta-tseu-kai (large
Pai and Chinese townlet).
Rice-fields.

12 „

Tcheya .

84°

69°

Fair.

Rain at
night.

M. to T. (Chinese), 8 m. ;
2| hrs. Continued ascent
of the Mong-ma Ho.

386

APPENDIX A

Datt.

1895.
13 May

14

15

16

17

18 „

19 „

21 V

Place of
Observation.

Lao-Kaitse

Viinchou

Thermometer

(Fahr.).

Lotan

Chun-ning-Fou

Ta-lo-oue

Hsiao-tiou-fan

Salatang

Mon-tian-cho .

91

95

84"

85° 66

73

7>

62°

66"

60°

69°

57

66°

Wind.

w.

E.S.E.

E.

W.

Weather.

Remarks.

Fine day. i T. to L. (Chinese), 2| hrs.

Heavy | Up valley of the Mong-ma

showers at Ho to one of its sources.

night. By Tcha-fang-kai.

Fair.

Cloudy.
Oppres-
sive.

Fair.
Rain at

night.

Cloudy.
Light rain.

Rain.

L. to Y., i6i m.; 6 hrs. Fir
forests. Crossed the Lancho
Ho, affluent of Mekong, by
bamboo bridge — breadth,
43 yds ; depth, 3 ft. Bed
of stream five times larger.

Halt at Yunchou.' Important
commercial centre, about
7000 inhabitants ; resid-
ence of sub-prefect.

Y. to L. (large Chinese town-
ship), 13^ m.; 4^ hrs. Ascent
up right bank of the Pe Hsiao
Ho.

L. to C. (Chinese prefecture,
about 6000 inhabitants).
Continued up the Pe Hsiao
Ho. By Chiang-chouan.

C. to T.,iom.; 3^ hrs. Crossed
two rivers, sources of the
Pe Hsiao Ho. ByTampao.
Over col in the chain of
hills.

T. to H., gi m.; 3^ hrs. By
Chin-chouen to the Mekong
valley.

H. to S., 13 m.; 4A hrs. Fol-
lowed Mekong right bank.
Crossed river by fine hang-
ing bridge. Zigzag ascent
to col, 8556 ft. By Loma.

S. to M., II m.; 3I hrs. By
Halo-cheu (small town,about
1500 inhabitants). .Along
crest to an affluent of the
Yang-pi-kiang, whence into
valley.

' From Yiinchou as far as Tali the country is exclusively inhabited by Chinese.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Place of

Thermometer
(Fahr. ).

Wind.

Date.

Observation.

c

Weather.

Kemarks.

X

a

s

i

(5

U
0
^

;: May

Tsa-fa-se

80°

66''

0

Overcast.

M. to T.,i3i m.;4ihrs. Down
affluent to the Yang -pi -
kiang, which crossed by
raft. Depth, 1 2 ft. ; current, i
knot. By Hsiao pinkai.

23 •-

Koulo Ho

M

62°

»»

T. to K.,15 m. ; 4I hrs. Across
chain forming left flank of
the valley of the Yang pi.
Fir forests. By Niou-ka
and Ouafoulou. Traversed
chain separating waters of
Mekong and Red Rivers.

24 „

Chantitang

84°

55

\\'.

3

Cloudy,
but fine.

K. to C, 16 m.; 6^ hrs. By
Chi - tsou - kai. Over col
8229 ft. dominating plain of
Meng-hua-ting.

25 ,>

'I'a-chang

n

62'

))

]''air.

C. to T., 22i m.; yh hrs.
Reached Meng - hua ■ ting
plain at Oupalan village.
Crossed an insignificant
source of Red River. Re-
joined paved road from
Meng-hua to Tali at Pou-
tcha-chou. By Miao-kai
and Ming-cheu, large vil-
lages. Plain fertile. Popu-
lation dense.

26 „

'I'ali-Fou

»?

55°

?j

3

Overcast.
Rainy.

T. to Tali-Fou (town of first
rank : residence of a Taotai
and a Tchentai. Chief com-
mercial centre of VV. Yiin-
nan ; 20,000 inhabitants ;
Catholic Mission), 25 m. ;
9 hrs. From Meng-hua plain
to that of Tali by col.
Through town of Chia-
Kouan, 5000 inhabitants.

27 „

6S°

53

>'

t

Continu-
ous rain.

From 26th May to i6th June,
halt at Tali-Fou.

28 „

69°

55°

'J

.,

ft

29 .,

68"

60^

0 ! Overcast.

3° >.

»)

57°

5»

„ Fair.

31 ..

69"

61"

JI

!
"1 "

;88

APPENDIX A

Date.

Place of
Observation.

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

Wind.

Weather.

Remarks.

s

.1

,3
0

1895.

1 June

2 „

3 „

4 „

5 >'

6 „

7 ,.

69°

66°
68°
66°
68^

67°

57°
55°
59°

J)

57°

55°

J1

Rain.

Fair.

Rain.
Overcast.

Rain.

Fair.
Very fine.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE CLIMATE OF SOUTH-WEST YUNNAN

As throughout the whole of Central Asia, Yunnan has a dry season and a
rainy season, influenced by the N.E. and S.W. monsoons. The dry season lasts
from the ist or 15th of October to the 1st or 15th of May. August and Sep-
tember are the two wettest months ; during which swollen torrents and torn-up
roads often render travelling wholl)' impossible. Many routes are only to be
followed by caravans during the dry season, amongst which was the one taken
by us from Tayang-ka to Muong-le.

But this general rule is subject to many natural modifications caused by the trend
of the mountain chains, altitudes, etc. In winter, for example, the valley of the
Red River is completely arid, as also the mountains which dominate it, to a height
of 3000 feet : whilst the same ranges from 3000 feet to 8000 feet are thickly
wooded and frequently enveloped in mists and rain.

The direction of the wind varies, as shown in the foregoing tables. Generally
speaking, it blows from the south-east during the dry months, and from the west
in the wet. I never experienced a north wind, but was told that in the winter it
often blows hard from this quarter over the plain of Tali, causing wrecks upon the lake.

In a country so mountainous as Yiinnan the climate alters much according to
altitude. In summer the valleys of the Red River, the Mekong, and the Salwen, the
plains of Muong-le, Ssumao, Yiinchou, and the portion of Yiinnan formed by the
basin of the Yang-tse-kiang, /.e. the lower districts from 2000 feet to 4000 feet, are
subject to high temperature, 91" to 100" in the daytime, and 76' to 86° at night;
whereas in the mountainous regions and higher plains such as those of Tali,
Meng-hua-ting, Chunning-fou, etc., from 4000 feet to 7000 feet, the temperature
remains within the extremes 53° and 82°. The climate of the plain of Tali (6929 feet)
is particularly bracing.

In this part of Yunnan we met with no snow, nor did we sight it on any summits
save those of the Tsang Mountains on the agth May. Certainl)' we were only there
between February and June. The Lolos informed us that in the end of November
and in I )eceniber snow falls almost every year on the chain separating the Red River
from the Black River, but that it never lies for more than a few days at a time. The
Tsang Mountains are the highest in South-\\'est Yiinnan. They rise on the west
of the plain of Tali to an average height of 1 1,500 feet, with some peaks of 1 2,500 feet
and 13,000 feet, and are covered from November to April. Snow also falls ever)'
winter in the plain of Tali, but does not lie.

389

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

PART II. TALI-FOU TO INDIA

My notebook containing metforological observations and details of our march
from the time of leaving Tali (i6th June) having been stolen on the 21st of July,
Part II. must be taken up at the latter date. Between June 16th and July 5th the
weather had been fine with cloudless sky (an unusual condition at the height of the
rains), rainy from July sth to 14th, and fair again from the 14th to the 21st. My
maximum and minimum registering thermometers were stolen at the same time ;
thenceforth I took the temperatures at 7 a.m., 2 p.m., and 9 p.m. ; and their mean will
give as nearly as possible that for the day.

I'lace of

Thernionieter
(Fahr.)

Wind.

Date.

Observation.

5

Weather.

Keniarlis.

£

e

E

_o

eS

0.

d.

0

0

r^

M

OS

s

i^

1S95.

21 July

Robbery Camp

0

Lowering.

From Camp at Jeyang-
sen to R. Camp, 6 m.;
2|hrs. On the heights
of the Mekong right
bank. By Patan (Lis-
sous) and Feoumoto
(Lamasjen).

22 „

>)

))

Halt.

23 ..

Ta Hsiao
Chouan

75'

cSj"

78°

)J

))

R. Camp to T., 9 m.; 3^
hrs. By Tchen-kioue-
(Lamasjen). Peak
above Mekong, here
rolling in deep gorge.
Across two torrents,
affluents of the M.

24 „

Tsiten .

71°

M

68°

s.w.

3

Fair.

5 m.; 2i hrs. Route very
bad and dangerous,
with steep slopes. Tor-
rent.

25 »

Keuntin Kien

73°

80°

69=

"

jj

J)

4 m.; 2 hrs. Torrent.
K. (Lamasjen village).

26 „

Feoutsen

77°

"

78'

0

Lowering.

IT m.; 4 hrs. Torrents.
Lamasjen natives.

27 „

Koutsen

»J

JJ

73°

j>

Heavy rain
at night.

6 m.; 2 hrs. Torrents.
Lamasjen.

28 „

Tie Ho .

75° 71°

68°

»»

Rain.

7 m.; 3 hrs. Route very

bad. By Jo Ho (La-

masjen). Torrents large.

29 „

Se-tchong

77° 82°

71°

11

It

7 m.; 3 hrs. Torrents.
Natives Lamasjen. By
La-tchi-in.

390

APPENDIX A

Date.

Place of
Observation.

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

Wind.

Weather.

Remarks.

t«

d.

d.

It

(J

c

i^

w

0

c

fe

1895.

30 July

In-chouan

68°

84°

75°

0

Fair.

6m.;2ihours. Torrents.
VLamasjen.

31 ..

Sin-tchan-pin .

71°

80°

68°

j>

Very fine.

13m.; 45 hrs. By Tat-
sou (Lissous). Three
large torrents. Camp
S. (Lamasjen).

I Aug.

Toti

73°

84°

))

j»

Fair.
Rain at
night.

12m.; 45^ hrs. Followed
brink of Mekong one
hour. Crossed river
midday. By Petia. '
Large torrent. T.
(Lamasjen).

2 „

Tolo

JJ

77°

62°

s.

Rain.

Crossing torrents all day.
8m.;3ihrs. By Hesel-
eou (Lissous), Tolo
(Lamasjen).

3 >,

Fong-chouan .

))

84°

71°

0

Very fine.

1 1 m. ; 4 hrs. Bad wooden
bridge over large tor-
rent. Long very steep
climb to crest. By
Tsiki (Lissous) to F.,
large village near river
(Lamasjen and a few
Chinese).

4 „

75°

82°

71°

J)

2

Rain.

Halt.

5 ..

("amp at Sian-
pin-chouan

77°

84°

73°

0

Fair.

6 m.; if hr. Kept on
near Mekong bank.
Route very bad. By
Tsipou (Lissous) to
camp beside river.
Sian. (Lamasjen).

6 „

Feast Camp .

71°

JJ

n

J)

)>

5 m.; 2 hrs. Torrent. By ,
Poumeu (Lissous).
Camped in wood by
river ; bad ground.

7 „

Lameti .

68"

82°

JJ

J)

>)

6 m.; 2| hrs. Followed
river : then climbed.
By Ouapoume (Lis-
sous) to L. Torrents
as usual. No track ;
we cut one.

8 „

Lometi .

69°

80°

71'

)j

J?

L. (Lissous), 4 j m.; 2 hrs.
Slept by river.

391

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Tliermomeler

Wind.

Place of

(Kahr.).

Date

Observation.

c

Weather.

Remarks.

cd

d.

1

u

0

0

l^

<N

Ov

p

u.

1895.

9 Aug.

Loza

68"

77"

64"

s.

I

Rain.

8i m.; 3] hrs. Steep
climb at start. Crossed
high cliff falling ab-
ruptly to river, hive
torrents ; two villages
to L. (Lissous).

10 „

Long-ka .

69"

80"

71

0

Fair.

To L. (Lamasjen, a few
Chinese), 9 m.; 3I hrs.
By Topa, Mioua-ki,
Chan-chia-la-he, and
Tilo, all Lissou villages.
By Kitcha, large Mosso
village by river bank,
which followed. Three
torrents.

I' „

Into

73

82'

73

))

»J

8i m.; 3 hrs. Followed
river bank by Noko,
Lot-chan, to Into (La-
masjen and Chinese).
Opposite Hsiao Ouisi,
with Catholic Mission.

12 »

Lokieou

68°

J)

J)

J)

J»

6 m.; 2 hrs. Still along
river by Pe-lang-tong
to L. (Lamasjen).

•3 ..

Haiwa .

M

78"

75"

))

Cloudy.

3 m.; I hr. By ( Jaisewa to
H. (Lamasjen and Chin.).

r4 ,.

>)

"

»1

J)

»)

Halt.

15 "

Halo

■Si

J)

>»

n

))

7 m.; 2i hrs. Wooden
bridge over torrent.
By Pintse to H.
(Lamasjen).

16 „

Lamaserai of
Kampou

n

"

))

yj

n

8 m.: 3 hrs. Crossed
river (Mekong) by
boat. Followed broad
route on left bank
by Tang - chan, and
Kouan-tso-pa to Kam-
pou (two large villages ;
residence of a Mosso
chief or Mokoua).
Quitted main road.
Up through pine for-
ests to the Lamaserai.

APPENDIX A

Thermometer

Wind.

Place of

(Kahr.).

Date.

Obsen'ation.

_o

«s

Weather.

Remarks.

ri

c.

d.

3J

a

0

r«^

M

0

a

fe

1895.

I 7 Aug.

Dekou .

68°

78°

75°

0

Showery.

9in.;3jhrs. By Sintong,
Gocha, and Yetche
(residence of Mosso
grand chief, the Yetche
Mokoua) to Dekou.
Country Mosso.

18 „

Landou .

69°

82°

71°

JJ

Fair.

i8| m.; 7 hrs. By Mosso
village of Ngaiwa,
Palotso, and Dzeti ;
large Chinese village
of Poutie, to Landou
(Chinese-Mosso).

19 >.

Tsekou .

71°

84°

73^

JJ

Slightly
overcast.

1 6 m.; 6 hrs. Cross stream
by Lota (Thibetans).
Narrow gorges as far
as Ouoloulon opposite
Tsekou. Passed river
(.Mekong) by rope
bridge at Tsedjrong.
Catholic Mission in
Tsekou, right bank,
330 feet above river.

20 „

75'

86'

77°

>j

Rain.

From 19th to 23rd,

21 „

JJ

J)

)»

>j

))

halt at Tsekou.

22 „

)J

)J

J>

JJ

»

23 „

J)

J»

JJ

JJ

J?

24 „

Gotra .

73°

80°

73'

j>

Fair.

13 ni., reckoned from
Tsedjrong: 5 hrs.
By Kiou-do-lon, Sere,
and Tinango to Gotra.
Here a hot sulphur
spring, temp. 118°.'

25 ,>

Itsi

68°

82°

71'^

N.

I

Very fair.

14^ m. ; 5 hrs. Crossed
to left bank of Mekong
by double-cord bridge.
By Tsereton, Latsa,
and Itsi. Slept in an
isolated building be-
tween Latsa and Itsi.
River ran in long
defiles. Route narrow
and dangerous.

' From Tsekou to Atentse all villages passed were Thibetan.

393

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

riace of

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

Wind.

Date.

Obsen'ation.

c

Weather.

Remarks.

S

s

s

_c

^

rt

d

d.

0

0

r^

w

0

k.

■ 895-
26 Aug.

Kinchu .

71°

78°

59°

N.

2

Very f

2i| m.; 7I hrs. By
Gonia. Scaled high
cliffs by Ki-ape. Left
Mekong valley for that
of the Atentse R.,
which ascended.

27 ..

Atentse .

55°

71°

51°

0

)»

I J m.; 40 min.

28 „

Lon-kon-gon .

50°

75°

71°

S.

2

Hazy.

Return to Tsekou.
1 Route already described.

29 "

30 ,-

Latsa
Tsekou .

69°

80°

73°

)J

3
0

Fair.

From ist to 9th Sept.,

halt af Tsekou. No

observations. Weather

overcast and threaten-

ing, with showers.

Temp. 73° to 86°.

10 Sept.

Sere

69°

II „

Last camp on
the Mekong

57'

75°

69^

S.E.

2

Rain in
morning.

After leaving Gotra,
followed river bank
by narrow, thickly
wooded (larch) valley
to camp on left bank
of large torrent, the
Lili. 9 m.) ' • -

12 „

Four Tent
Camp

62°

71°

60^

S.W.

3

Cloudy,
showery.

5i m. : 2i hrs. From
mouth of valley of
R. Lili to Londjre
(Thibetans). Thence
ascent of left bank,
south branch of that
river.

13 ..

Tululu Camp .

55°

51°

50"

0

Rain.

5^ m.; 2i hrs. Followed
stream at first at a dis-
tance, afterwards close.
Crossed left to right
bank by wood bridge.
Mighty forests.

394

APPENDIX A

Date.

1895.
14 Sept.

Place of
Observation.

Camp of the
Pass

15

16 „

17 „

18 „

Rhododendron
Camp

R. Donyon
Camp

Crest Camp

Meuradan

19

Tionra

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

48°

39

5°

55

57

59'

5°

55"

62°

57

66^

71

37

55

59

62°

73

Wind.

Weather.

Rain.

Fine day.
Wet night.

Fair.

Rain.

Fair.

Remarks.

61 m. : 3 hrs. Gentle
ascent, right bank.
Then very stiff climb
through forests.
Camped on crest of
chain separating the
Mekong and the Sal-
wen at 12,837 ft., near
Thibetan hut. Fine
pastures.

3 J m.: 1 1 hr. Passed
two affluents of R.
Donyon. Descended
through high grass and
trees.

5 m. ; 2 1 hrs. Reached
brink of R. Donyon,
which followed to near
a bridge. Camped in
clearing made by
selves.

3i m.; 2ihrs. CHmbed
by right bank to peak.
Camped on crest of
range between Rs.
Salwen and Donyon.

6 m.; 2^ hrs. Followed
crest. At branch route
to Tchamoutong took
left track. Steep de-
scent to R. Donyon
through bamboo woods
and long grass. Cross
Donyon to Meuradan
(Loutses).

1 1 m. Reascended yes-
terday's path. Crossed
crest, and descended
towards the Salwen
through high grass.
Slept at Tionra
(Loutses), 40 ft. above

395

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Place of

Thermometer

(Fahr.).

Wind.

Date.

Observation.

E

Weather.

Kcuiarks.

ci

5.

s

0

r-*

N

0^

■q

Oh

1895.

20 Sept.

75"

84^

71"

s.

I

Very fair.

Halt at Tionra.

21 „

71

))

73

JJ

)>

Fair.

)»

22 „

I'choton

73°

80°

7'°

»»

2

r„

Passage of the Sahven by
boat. Camp opposite
shore near Tchoton
(Loutses).

23 .,

Londse .

68"

78"

69"

0

Cloudy.

II m.; 4 hrs. Followed
right bank of river, by
Tchatsa. Hydraulic
mill (Loutses).

24 „

Djewan .

69^

77

JJ

JJ

I

Fair.

6Am.;2hrs. Continued
by Salwen right bank.
By Guisa to Djewan
(Loutses).

25 >,

Nidji .

71'

)J

64"

55

>)

>>

2 m. Up course of
stream, affluent of .Sal-
wen. Slept in single
dwelling at Nidji
(Lissous).'

26 „

Big (liff Camp

66"

So°

57°

S.W.

2

Rain.

3 m. ; 2 hrs. Left bank,
torrent, steep gradient,
high grass. Camp on
narrow platform above
torrent.

27 ..

59'

73"

))

»>

I

«j

Halt.

28 „

Snow ("amp .

)J

59'

46^

0

Fair.
Brief
storm.

7 m. : 4 hrs. .\brupt
scramble. Thick
forest. Camp on bare
plateau near huge
snow mass. Route
severe and dangerous.

29 ..

Tamalo .

46"

68'

68"

N.W.

I

Fair.

8i m. ; 4| hrs. Stiff
climb to col, 12,830
ft., surmounted at
1.47 p.m. Stunted
shrubs and moss on
crest. Descent into
bamboo brake, then
long grass. Tamalo
(Lissous and Loutses).

' l''rom leaving the .Salwen until reaching India, tracks impracticable for animals loaded or not, e.'ccepl in the plain of
Khamti.

APPENDIX A

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

Wind

Date.

Observation.

0

Weather.

Remarks.

tj

d

D.

t,

i

r..

«

C>

G

u.

1895.

30 Sept.

1 Oct.

2 „

68"
62°

57°

73"
69°

68°

64"

59°
60°

N.W.

N.

I

>)

0

Fair.

Cloudy.

Rain.

Halt 30th Sept. to
- 3rd Oct.
Tamalo.

3 ..

.sy

66

»J

J)

jj

4 ..

Camp of the
Loutse Lady

60"

so"

5°"

J)

jj

2 m.: 2 hrs. Crossed
the Poula Ho. Hard
climb, high grass and
forest. Bad camping
ground beside the only
spring met on this
march.

5 ..

Shingle Camp

46^

55

48°

W.N.W.

2

Uncertain.

4 m.: 2| hrs. Passed col
traversing Mangon Ko
chain. Descended into
forest to camp beside
R. Seke.

6 „

Morass Camp

50

51

46°

W.

I

Change-
able.
Shower)'.

5 m. ; 3 hrs. Reascended
left bank R. Seke:
moderate slope.

7 ,.

Camp Belle-
vue

44°

42"

35°

N.W.

2

Very fair.

9 m. ; 4i hrs. Level
ground, with pools and
swamps. Later, sharp
gradients to col cross-
ing chain of separation
between upper waters
of Sahven and Ira-
wadi. Surmounted
second higher col in
lesser range before
beginning descent to-
wards the Kiou-kiang.

8 „

Dead Men
Camp

41°

68°

53°

N.E.

I

jj

7 m.; 3i hrs. Downwards
into forest and long
grass. Camped by
deserted Kiout.se hut.

9 ..

Toulong

48°

71°

51°

•»

»)

li m. lillage began
at about 1000 feet
above the Kiou-kiang".
Kioutse huts scattered
apart on hillsides.

397

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Dale.

Place of
Obsenation.

Thermometer
(Fahr.).

Wind.

Weather.

Remarks.

c

S

B

a

.2

6

cd

6.

D.

0

0

r^

w

CT.

a

U.

1895.

I 0 Oct.

II „

5°°
48°

73°
71°

50°

0

Very fair.

Halt at Toulong till
1 2th.

12 „

50°

JJ

51°

)>

>»

13 .,

Mosquito
Camp

>J

73°

64°

N.E.

2

j»

Descent to the Kiou
kiang.

14 .,

Aruikan .

59°

71°

59°

0

Overcast.
Light
rain.

i^ m. ; I hr. Crossed
the Kiou-kiang by
cord bridge. Thence
climbed through long

grass to isolated dwell-
ing, Aruikan.

15 ..

Anniversary

55°

68"

60°

S.E.

I

Very fair.

3m.;2hrs. Redescended

Camp

and pitched by river.

High grass.

16 „

Deidoum

59°

ij

55°

S.W.

>)

>»

3 m. : 2i hrs. Up cliff.
Half an hour steep
descent to R. Tatei,
which crossed. Lay

at Deidoum (Kioutses)

for night. Track very

bad and perilous.

17 »

Great Slide
Camp

53°

69°

>»

S.

>J

))

4 m. ; 2 J hrs. Stream.
Scarp. Col. Sur-
mounted, and camped
below by river.

18 „

1

Ladder Camp

51°

71°

53°

0

■)

31 m. ; 2 hrs. Skirted
edge of the river among
rocks or a little above
in the woods. Camped
on sand spit.

19 ,.

Hollow Rock
Camp

55°

))

)»

)>

ii

i| m. ; I J hr. By the
river.

20 „

Nine PM r e
Camp

50°

68°

48^

))

))

4 m.; 2 J hrs. Crossed
River Madoumadon.
Climbed through

forests and high grass

to crest between this

■

river valley and that of

the Kiou-kiang. No
water from R. Madou-
madon till camp.

598

APPENDIX A

Place of

Thermometer

(Fahr.).

Wind.

Date.

Observation.

c

Weather.

Remarks.

rt

S

d.

,0
1

0

r^

«

0

G

fc.

1895.

21 Oct.

Moss Camp .

51°

64°

42°

0

Fair.

3 m. ; 2 hrs. Forests.
Camped a little short
of col.

22 „

Camp of the
River Tet-
chen

46°

JJ

57°

)»

Drizzle.

4 m. ; 2 hrs. Over col.
Down through forests.
No water till river
reached.

23 >,

Tukiu Mu

59°

66°

»>

S.W.

2

J)

5 m.: 3 hrs. Crossed
several hills and streams
in descent to the Kiou-
kiang brink. Leaving
river, ascended, and
passed night in one of
scattered Kioutse
dwellings.

24 „

55°

68°

59°

n

I

))

25 »

57°

69°

))

))

j»

J)

-Halt till 26th.

26 „

55°

68°

57°

)>

2

Heavy rain.

27 ,.

Deluge Camp

53°

69°

J»

)»

>)

»j

3 m.; r i hr. Passed the
R. Geling by self-made
bamboo bridge. Scaled
crest between the
Geling and the Tukiu
Mu. F'oUowed to con-
fluence of latter with
Kiou-kiang.

28 „

Safety Camp .

59°

73°

))

0

Fair.

^ m. Crossed the Tukiu
Mu by cord bridge.
Followed course of
Kiou-kiang.

29 .,

Camp of the
Leeches

57°

71°

59°

>»

)»

4^ m. ; 4 hrs. Continued
by river. Camp on
small beach.

30 ,,

Camp of the
R. Dublu

59°

73°

60°

»>

6^ m. ; 4i hrs. Along the
Kiou-kiang for li hr.
Then mounted chain
separating it from R.
Dublu. Camped by
confluence of Dublu
and Telo.

399

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Thennonieter

Place of

(Fahr.).

Wind.

Date.

Observation.

c

Weather.

Remarks.

g

^

It

a

c

r^

M

0^

s

U.

1805.

31 OCX.

Mandoum

53°

68°

59°

0

Cloudy.

I m. ; I hr. Bridged the
Dublu with bamboos.
Also liana bridge.
Ascended left bank of
R. Telo. Camped in
bamboo brake near
Mandoum (Kioutses).

I Nov.

Cam]) of the
R. 'I'clo

55°

64°

)J

))

Fair.

I }, m. Rafted over Telo.
Up right bank. Crossed
Telou torrent.

2 „

Terrace Camp

53°

60°

55°

)»

Very fair.

4 m. ; 3] hrs. Climbed
along right flank crest
of Telou valley. No
water.

3 "

Camp of the
R.Reunnam

48^

64°

60°

J)

Overcast.

4I m. ; 3 hrs. Forests.
Crossed col. Camped
by R. Reunnam.

4 ,,

Camp of Dia-
mai's Death

53°

69°

>)

n

Heavy
rain.

3^ m. ; 4 hrs. Marched
in water. Bed of tor-
rent.

5 ..

I )uma .
(No. .)

57"

71°

»»

)»

Continu-
ous rain.

4i m. ; 3^ hr.s. Followed
the Reunnam to con-
fluence of the Wan Ou.
Struck off on left bank
to interior. Slept at
Duma (Kioutses).

6 „

59°

68°

64°

.s.w.

3

Incessant
rain.

Halt.

7 „

1 )uma .

(No. 2)

57°

60°

57°

0

Fair.

S m. ; 3 hrs. Brink of
Sinbinto its confluence
with Reunnam, which
crossed. Mountain,
forest, stream. Slept at
another Duma (Kiout-
ses).

8 „

Dzon Redzi
Camp

55°

59"

55°

))

))

4 m.; 2f hrs. Same
struggles.

9 ..

Long Crest
Camp

)»

59°

»

»)

Cloudy.
Showery.

7 m. ; 3^ hrs. After cross-
ing two streams, kept
on long spur. Better
forest track.

400

APPENDIX A

Thermometer

Wind

Date.

Place of
Observation.

(Kahr.).

Weather.

Remarks.

c

B

s s

_0

0

rt

d. a-

tj

0

0

r^

N

o\

fe

1895.

10 Nov.

Camp of the
R. Tsan

57°

68°

60-

0

Fair.

6 m. ; 3 hrs. Descent
beside the Pinti to its
confluence with R.
Tsan.

II .,

Big Dam Camp

55°

69"

59°

J)

J)

6 m. ; 4 hrs. Up left bank
of Tsan, first wooded,
then rocky. Crossed
it by a large fish-dam
(Kioutses).

12 „

Pandam.

57°

66°

>)

w.

2

j>

5 m. ; 4 hrs. Remounted
right bank of Tsan to
its confluence with the
Pandam, which fol-
lowed to village of
same name among rice-
fields (Kioutses).

1.3 ,>

...

)»

62°

60°

0

Heavy

-Halt.

rain.

14 -.

J)

68°

)J

N.

I

Fair.

;

15 ..

Melekeu

59°

71°

a

0

))

5i m. ; 2 hrs. Followed
Pandam to its junction
with Nam Lian. Quit-
ted stream for woods
on left. To Melekeu
(Kioutses). Good
forest track.

16 „

Delou .

57°

73°

55'

JJ

))

1 1 m. ; 4i hrs. Recrossed
Nam Lian. Over col
in Leke chain, to D.
(Kioutses).

17 ..

Tobacco Camp

55°

77°

60"

)»

It

2 m. ; I hr. Torrent,
above right bank of
which camped.

18 „

Camp of the

60°

75" ..

>)

»)

10 m.; 4i hrs. Descent

Plain

to brink of the Nam
Chom. Along valley,
path opening.
Emerged from forests,
and debouched on

great plain of Khamti.

2 C

401

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Thermometer

I'lacc of

(Fahr.).

Wind.

Dale.

Observation.

.1

Weather.

Remarks.

C

S

S

J!

rt

d

d.

'->

S

r^

r4

0^

.-

u.

^~*

1

>895-

19 Nov.

K h .1 ni t i
(Padao)

57'

77° 1 57"

1

0 In plain
i)f Khamti,

Hi m.; 2. J hrs. On the
flat. Crossed the Nam

fog every

Kiou near 'I'san Kan

morning

(large Khamti village) :

till 9 a.m.,

again by boat (width,

then

1 30 yards ; depth, 1 0

splendid

feet ; current sluggish).

day.

i'orded the Nam-Sai.
By boat across the

Nam Pela (could be

forded). Several vil-

lages. Crossed the

N a m T 0 u n, and

reached Padao or

I'utau, the capital of

Khamti.

20 ,,

53'

75°

59'

N.N.W.

I

21 „

51°

77°

)»

N.

)•

22 .,

50°

75°

))

0

) Halt at Khamti.

23 ■•

5'°

77°

57"

N.N.W.

2

)

24 „

5°'

75°

))

11

I

25 ..

.Signal ( 'amp .

48°

73°

»»

0

6 m. ; 2 hrs. In the i)lain.
Confluence of the Nam
'I'aheu with the Nam
I'ela. By I.omking.

26 „

•Singleng

5°

59'

5''

'»

X'ery fair.

9 m. ; 4i hrs. t'rom bank
of the Nam Kokao

began to ascend at

first gently. After

cro.ssing Nam Taheu,

steep to col. Torrents

and slight descent to

Singleng ( Kioutses).

27 ..

46-

68°

55°

»»

))

Halt.

28 „

l''alsc Start
("amp

4S'

71"

57°

i»

Fair to
overcast.

3 m. ; li hr. Passed
Cheulemi, last Kioutse

hamlet.

29 .-

Camp of the
Nam Lang

5°'

59°

55°

2

Cloudy.
Slight sleet.

5 m. ; 3 hrs. The Nam
Lang joined by the
Nam Sanglian. Fol-
lowed left bank and

crossed by raft.

40:

APPENDIX A

Thermometer | wipfl

Date.

I'lac-f .if
Ohscrvalion.

hahr.).

Weather.

Remarks.

^

2'

s

s

0

rt

d.

d

0 .

.

1^

N

c^

2

u*

1895-
30 Nov.

Camp of the

53°

57"

51°

0

Cloudy.

4 m.; 4 hrs. Confluence

Nam Tsai

1 Slight sleet.

of Nam Lang and Nam

Tsai. Ascended bed of

1

Nam Tsai in the water.

I I )ec.

Camp of the

51"

50°

))

Fair.

5 m.; 4 hrs. Quitted the

Oucpoucot

Nam Tsai after il hr.
Up through woods
over col Nam Tsai
Boum. Camped by

the Ouepoucot.

2 „

Camp c)t the
Nam Phun-
gan

48°

59° 5'°

I

J)

))

5 m. ; 3^ hrs. Traversed
col separating Oue-
poucot from the Nam

Phungan.

3 '1

Hornbill Camp

46'

57°

50°

jj

)»

S m. ; 3^ hrs. Held on
up the Nam Phungan,
cutting affluent Nam
Moi. Camped by the
Nam Phungan.

4 ,-

48'

55°

42°

"

,,

I

5 ..

42'

5°°

46°

N.W.

I

,,

- Halt.

6 „

)>

46°

41°

0

.,,

j

7 V

Camp of the

37'

42' ; 33'

j»

,,

4i m.; 4 hrs. Course of

Altars

the Nam Phungan.

8 „

India Camp .

32'

37'

35'

))

1)

4 m.; 4 J hrs. Climbing
the col separating the
waters of the Brahma-
putra and the Ira-
wadi. Crossed it at
9875 ft. in 2 ft. of snow.
Began descent by spur.
( "amped in forest.
Water rare and brackish.

9 ..

Camp of the
R. Dapha

37"

44'

44'

;)

Cloudy.

6 m.; 3 hrs. Continued
descent of spurs.
Passed confluence of

two sources of R. Dapha,

which then followed

down.

to „

Fever ( 'amp .

41°

51°

J)

W.

I

Fair.

4 m.; 2 hrs. Quitted the
1 )apha valley for ascent
through woods on left.
Camped in clearing.

403

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

I 'lace of

Thermometer ,,.. ,
(Kahr.). 1 ^^'"•'

1

Dale.

Observation.

S

Weather.

Remarks.

E

=■

P .2

i

rt

D.

Q. ! S

,0

t^

N

Ov

s

X

1895.

1 1 Dec.

Summit Camp

37"

48'

42°

0

Snow.

3i m. ; 2i hrs. Climbed
in forests. Camped
on summit of chain
dividing the 1 )ihing
and the 1 )apha. Water-
less route ; a few
muddy pools on crest.

Coolie Camp .

39° 5°

57°

»)

Heavy

9 m. ; 5 hrs. Long de-

rain.

scent. Camped by
affluent of Dihing. Only
one spring on march.

13 ..

Camp of the
R. Dihing

51°

62°

11

)'

Fair.

6 m. ; 4i hrs. Tracked a
stream to its confluence
with the Dihing.
Camped right bank.

14 ..

Castaway
Camp

50°

68°

64°

n

"

I i m. ; 1 hr. Descended
the Dihing, cutting it
three times. Camped
left bank.

15 ..

Camp of Clood
News

53

7'°

62°

»

»»

.', m. Camped right
bank. Note : Between
the third ford yes-

terday and the crossing

to-da)- there was also

a path on right bank.

16 „

Clay Cliff
Camp

5°'

68'

60°

J)

)i

8i m. : 3i hrs. Down
the right bank of the
Dihing.

17 „

Daphagang

8 m.; 35 hrs. Leaving

the Dihing, mounted

to the right. At Boun-

iang (Mishmis) crossed

the R. Dapha by

1

bamboo 1) r i d g e.

Reached Daphagang

1

3.21 p.m. (first Singpho

village in Assam).

404

APPENDIX A

From Daphagang to Sadiya, route known. From Daphagang to Bishigaom,
residence of a Singpho chief, two to two and a half days' march (about 1 7 miles,
no village on the route). After leaving Bishi, good level road.

From Bishigaom to Kagam, cir. 6 miles. Kagam to Mounan, 10 miles.
(At N'ling, half-way, route practicable for elephants.)

From Nounan to Ninglou, cir. 18 miles (residence of principal Singpho chief).
Ninglou to Sadiya by water (Dihing and Brahmaputra), 8 hours. Sadiya,
residence of an Assistant Political Officer : first Hindu town and European post.

OBSERVATION.S ON THE CLIMATE OF NORTH-WEST YUNNAN
AND OF THE UPPER BASIN OF THE IRAAVADI

In Yunnan above the 26th lat. the two seasons (dry and rainy) are much
less marked than farther to the south. The upper valley of the Mekong (from
the 25th to the 27th lat.) is very dry ; it rarely rains there even in the summer.
In the region of Hsiao-Ouisi, Tsekou, and .Atentse (27° to 28° 30' N.) there are
two rainy seasons — one from July to the end of September, and the other (the
stronger) in February. The valley of the Salwen is covered with thick vegetation,
and must be damper than that of the Mekong. In the basin of the Irawadi,
which shares the climatic conditions of Indo-China, the two seasons are well
marked ; nevertheless, the foregoing tables show that in the height of the dry
season we had rain on fourteen days out of sixty-seven (from the ist of October
to the 7th of December). According to the natives, the summer rains are both
long and abundant, a fact which the e.xuberance of the vegetation strongly confirms.

In all these regions (at any rate in the seasons when we traversed them) the winds
are rare and light in force. In the upper basin of the Irawadi a perpetual calm
reigns throughout the winter, the blasts from the north being stopped by the
lofty range which separates this basin from the high ground of Thibet.

Except on a few crests (the summits of Likiang, Dokerla, Pemachou, etc.),
there are no perennial snows on the mountains of North-West Yunnan. But the
great chains which divide the Mekong from the Yang-tse-kiang, the Mekong from
the Salwen, the Salwen from the Poula Ho, and the Poula Ho from the Irawadi, are
covered with snow from December to May, and cannot (at least the three last)
then be crossed. In the winter it is impossible to pass from the Mekong to
the Salwen farther north than the col of Fev-long-kiao at Lao.

[Supplementary c;eoi;kai'hic.\l Information.

405

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

SUPPLEMEN1AR\ GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION GATHERED

ON THE MARCH

Point of Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers about
which Information was col-
lected.

Sha-ha-ti .

POUX-KA

Ta-yang-ka .

Lantcheu or La.mi

NlI.UNG-HO

La-ka-Ho and Laniou-
Ho

Mo\G-IE-TSIN-H(l

MUONG-LK

I'ARl' 1. MONGTSR to SSUMAO

From Sha-ha-te a route starts which joins that from

Manhao to Muong-la in 2 days at \an-pou-tien.
(Direction S.)

From Poun-ka a route starts leading to Muong-Teun on

the Nam-Ka (affluent of the lilack River). [S. 20'

w.].

Route from I'a-yang-ka to Talan, 4 or 5 days' march.
[N. 85° W.]' S/a^^cs- {i) Tuca (30 li's,= yi m.
cir.) ; (2) Tica-liang-tse (90 lis, 22^ m. cir.) ; (3) Sin-
pin-you (50 lis, i2i m. dr.); (4) Seu-Koue (60 lis,
15 m. cir.) : (5) Talan (20 lis, 5 m. cir.).

Mule path from Lantcheu to Muong-la along valley of
the Nam-Na. [S. 50' E.] 10 days from Lantcheu
to Muong-Teun, and 10 days from Muong-Teun to
Muong-la.

The Nilung-Ho should be an affluent of the Black
River (Ly-sien-kiang), junction near large Chinese
village called Latan (?)

The La-ka-Ho is an affluent of the Laniou-Ho, which
must itself flow into the Senan-kiang (an important
affluent on left bank of the Ly-sien-kiang, according
to the natives).

The Mo-te-Ho and the Menling-Ho unite to form the
Mong-ie-tsin-Ho, an important branch of the Ly-sien-
kiang. Confluence with the latter is in the district of
Talan.

65'

E.]

Routes starting from Muong-le : —

1. Towards Lai-chau (Pavie map). [S.

2. Towards Ipang and the tea districts : about 6

days. [S. 50° W.] Stages or principal villages
t'H route — Ta-tso-bang, Tchin-seu, Eul-tong,
Koua-tson-lin, Men-penting, Mou-lou.

3. Towards Ssumao. (Marked on my map.)

4. Towards Poueul, 7 days. [N. 55' W.] Stages —

(i) Sen-kia-tsen ; (2) Pouking ; (3) Tchang-pin ;
(4) Men-ka-Di ; (5) Ti-tchong-o : (6) Meng-sin-
Ka.

' The directions in upright brackets are those of a line as the crow flies between the points of
departure and arrival.

- In Yunnan the li is approximate!)' et|\ial to 439 yards.

406

APPENDIX A

Point (»f Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers aljout
which Infoniiation was col-
lected.

Cheun-Long-Ho (Nam
Bang)

SSUMAO

MONGPAN

The Cheun-Long-Ho has its source about 2 days N.
of Muong-Hsien, a village 3 days from Tchen-Lao up
the river. Down stream it flows by Xien-tong,
residence of a Pai chief subject to China. A route
leads from Tchen-lao to Xien-tong in 2 days (sleep at
Hsiao-Teou).

The Cheun-Long-Ho is the source of the Nam Bang, a
large affluent of the Mekong.

Routes starting from Ssumao :

Poueul,

2 days.
7 to 8 days

davs.

( Fr. ( larnier and
;. (Marked on my
(Bourne and Col-
(iarnier.)

[S. 50 \V.] Fol-

Towards
Bourne.)

Towards Muong-le
map.)

Towards I pang, 6
quhoun.)

To Xien-Houng, 9 days. (Fr.

Towards Mong-Wan, 7 days,
lows the Dayakeu road {z: my map) for 4 days,
branching at Long-tang.

From Long-tang to Mong-Wan, 3^ days. Slages
— (i) Lin-Koua-ten ; (2) Tchen-kong, cross the
Tiouloun-kiang (Mekong) by boat ; (3) Ba-fa-po,
3^ days to Mong-Wan. Road good and fre-
quented.

Route to Mong-pan, 6 to 7 days. l^x. 33
Stages — (i) Sin-keu-tsong : (2)
Poueul-Ho (cross this river) :

[N- 55 ^v■]
>La-nion : (3)
(4) Hsiao-he-

kiang (cross this river) ;
Mong-tchu : (7) Mong-pan.

(5) Pan-ha-tse : (6)

PART IL SSUMAO TO MEXG-HUA-IIXC

Route starting from Mong-pan : —

1. Towards Mong-ka, 2 days. (Marked on my

map.)

2. Towards Mong-tchou (30 lis, 7^ m. cir.), important

centre inhabited by the same population as
Mong-pan (Pais, Chinese, and Lokais).

3. Towards Poueul, 5 days. [S. 55' E.] Stages —

( i) Tchang-liang-sen ; (2) Pa-te-liang : (3) Tatien ;
(4) Kan-tien ; (5) Poueul.

4. Towards Chouen-lo. (Marked on my map.)

5. Towards Ssumao ; described above.

40;

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Point of Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers about
which Information was col-
lected.

MONO-KA

Chuen-Lo

Tachin
suyen-kia.\(

Tamano

LiNGUEU

1. To Poueul, 4 long days. [E. as far as Ouei-yuen,

then S. 25' E.] S/aj^es — (i) Salafang ; (2)

Ouei-yuen ; (3) Sisa : (4) Poueul.

JVo/e. — From confirmed information, Ouei-
yuen is not in the N.E. as marked on the
Chinese maps and from them copied into
European mapii. Ouei-yuen is a fairly im-
portant centre, near which are the two large
salt mines of Hsiang-ien-Kin and Lang-chou-
Kin (latter i day N. of OueV-yuen).

2. There is a route from Poueul into liurmah by

Teng-Vueh, passing iNFong-ka and Tapong (ferry
over Mekong on the Mong-ka — Mienning route).
From Tapong to Teng-Yueh, about 2 1 days' march.
[N. 8° \V. as far as Keng-Ma, then N. 35° W.
approximately.] Sfa^s^es — (i) Tamano ; (2) Sang-
Kaichin ; (3) Monsa ; (6) Keng-Ma; (12) Chen-
Kang : (14) Passage of the Sal wen ; (21) Teng-
Yueh.

3. There must be a route from Mong-ka to Tali-Fou

of which the first stages would be — (i) Ouen-
Cong; (2) Mong-Lo ; (3) Taopicai. I could
not trace it farther.

1. From Chuen-Lo to Mong-Lang, 3 days, by Tachio-

Ten, Mong-long-co, Sihai, and Toung-chewan.
[Ceneral direction .S. 70° W.J Mong-Lang is an
important centre and the residence of a mandarin
with the title 7/V/!,^

2. From Chuen-Lo a route starts W.N.W". to Ninhai,

I day, by Ningoua and Mong-Kin. By continu-
ing in this direction one would come upon the
independent li-Kcnfus (?) (/<• means wild). The
Chinese account of them is that they live nearly
naked and are armed with lances and poisoned
arrows.
Three days W. of Tachin are silver mines in process of

working ; Mona-Chang.
At the confluence of the Sekiang and the Mekong,
which here at the ferry bears the local name of Suyen-
kiang. A route starts hence to Ya-Kou, Ka-Kong,
Momi, and Molo, districts situated between the
Mekong and the route from Mong-ka to Mong-
pan.
From Tamano to Muong-Moun, i day.
From Lingueu to Tapong (Mekong), i to 2 days
S.^V.

408

APPENDIX A

Point of Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers about
which Information was col-
lected.

MiENNING

Nan-Ting-Ho

Yi'NCHOU

KlANoPlX

Yu.\-Loxg-Cheou

Fev-Loxg-Kiao

Routes from Mienning : —

1. Main road to Yiinchou, 4 days at 15 m. a daw

[N. 10' E.] Stages — (i) Lating ; {2) You-Ouan-
chui ; {3) Taou-Tao-chui : (4) Yiinchou.

2. From Taou-Tao-chui there is a straight road to

Chunning-Fou in 4 short days. [N. 35° W.] By
this route it is 7 days from Mienning to Chunning-
Fou : thus : 4th day, Leu-peu-ten-kai : 5 th, Lima-
chin-ivai : 6th, Mong-La ; 7th, Chunning-Fou.

3. From Ling-chin-kai to Chunning-Fou there is a

third route, making an elbow to the W., 5 days :
1st — ?; 2nd, Sila ; 3rd, Hsiao-tia ; 4th, Ouang-
chen-konen : 5th, Chunning-Fou.

4. From Mienning to Mong-Moun : no details.

5. From Mienning to the Mekong, ferry at Kali.

(Marked on my map.)

6. Another route from Mienning to the Mekong, ferry

at Mata, 2 days E.S.E.

This river, which passes near Pochan and Mienning, and
of which we discovered the sources above Ponchan,
is a large affluent of the Salwen, which it joins a little
below Aleng-Ting.

Direct route from Yunchou to Meng-Hua-Ting and Tali-
Fou, 8 days [N. 15" E.] at 15 m. a day; thus: (i)
Mong-Lan : (2) Chao-Kai ; (3) Chen-Tchou-Ton (cross
the Mekong): (4) Kong-Lan ; (5) Kilung; (6) Lo-
Tchiou ; ( 7 ) Tcha-fang-Sao ; (8) Meng-Hua-Ting.

PART III. MEXG-HUA-TING
FONG-CHOUAN

TO

Is a stage on a route from Chen-chuan-cheou to Yang-pi.
[Kiang-Pin to Chen-chuan N. 10° E. ; Kiang-Pin to
Yang-pi S. 25° E.] Stages— (i) Cha-ki ; (2) — ? ; (3)
Kiang-Pin ; (4) Kiao-cheou (salt) : (5 ) — ? : (6) Yang-pi.

Route from Yiinlong-cheou to Yiing-chang-fou, 9 days.
[S. 15' W.] Stages — (i) Hsin-Kiao-La-Tchao ; (2)
Kang-haitse : (3) — ? ; (4) Yiing-pin ; (5) Lao-Kiao
(cross the Mekong); (6) Cha-yong ; (7) Chouitchai ;
(8) Pan-kiao (where the route from Tali to Yiing-
chang is joined) ; (9) Yiing-chang-fou.

From Fey-Long-Kiao to Lou-kiang-Pa (.Salwen), 7 days.
[S.S.W.] Stages — (i) Kieoui-tcheou ; (2) Toten ;
(3) Tsao-kiang ; (4) Sou-Tchoui ; (5) (6)—?; (7) Lou-
kiang-Pa (this must be the ferry of that name on the
Salwen in the route from Tali to Bhamo in 25° N.).

409

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Point of Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers alnjiil
which Information was col-
lected.

Fey-Long-Kiao — cont. .

LOUKOU

Communications bf-
tween the mekong

AND THE SaLWEN,

AND Names of Lis-
sou Villages upon

THE LATTER RiVER

Route by the left

BANK. OFTHeMeKONG

From Kieoui-tcheou another route branches, leading in
7 days to Yiing-chang-Fou. [S.] S/a^^es — (i) 'I'ong-
Kien ; (2) Loui-Tchouang ; (3) Li-Tchai-Pa ; (4) Lo-
Fou-Tchang ; (5) Siho-Loa-Tchouang ; (6) I'an-Kiao-
Kai (where the route from Yiin-long to ^'iiIlg-(■bang is
joined) ; (7) Viing-chang-Fou.

1. Route from Loukou to Teng-\ ueh, iS to 10 days.

[S. 40'' W'.]: passing (i) Moupo; (2) Souko-choui ;
(3) Manyu ; (4) Man-Kouan-Kai ; (5) Kaii-tin-Kai ;
(6) Ta-tang-tse ; (7) Liou-kiang-pou ; (8) Hsiao-Kai;
(9) Kuou-tchi-Kai ; (10) Ouei-Kai ; (11) Koui-hai-
tse : (12) Teng-Yueh.

2. Route from Loukou into the country of the I'ou-

mans (?). Opened within the last few years, and only
for pedestrians, it has the reputation of being very
unhealthy. Ceneral direction W. The route crosses
the Salwcn and the great range behind, in which
are tea plantations. It then cuts the Hsiao-kiang,
affluent of the Long-Song-kiang, a large river that
flows into Burmah (no doubt the Chouely). In this
valley the natives are said to be the savage Lansous(?).
'I'hence one reaches the country of the wild Pou-
inans, where the My-le-kiang has its course, and
fartherthe I.ang-tchouan-kiang near English confines.
From Loukou to the Poumans' territory is about 12
days. These Poumans must be the same as the
Kachins or Singphos of Upper Burmah, the Lang-
tchouan-kiang must be the eastern branch of the
Irawadi (N'mai-Kha), and the My-le-kiang its
western branch (Mali-Kha). But who can these
I -ansou savages be ?

3. There is a foot track up the right bank of the Sahven,

by which, at i day's distance from Loukou, is
reached Tenkeu, the residence of a toussou.

Routes crossing the mountain chain and only jmicticable
for pedestrians, each from 2 to 4 daj's' march ; start —

1. From Tse-Ho.

2. I-'rom Teki, bordering on Tasouin (cord bridge),

whence a way proceeds towards Upper Bur-
mah.

3. From Fong-Chouan to Zali.

Going northward from Tasouin are found Dapelou,
Lomate, Zali, and Ketseki.
P'rom Fey-Long-Kiao a mule track ascends the left bank
of the .Mekong.

410

APPENDIX A

Point of Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers aljout
which Information was col-
lected.

Route by the left

BANK OF THE MeKONc;

— continued

Mines .

Routes from the Me-
kong TO theSalwen.
Lissou Villages on

the LATTER RiVER

From Fey-Long-Kiao to Hsiao-Ouisi, 22 days. Sta,s:;es —
(i) Chout-tchan ; (2) Pe-tchi-tin ; (3) Tang-pang ; (4)
Kien-tsao-teoui ; (5) Sse-tsin (salt mine) ; (6) Fe-yang ;
(7) Choui-tchou ; (8) Chouen-tan-tsen : (9) Tsin-men-
Keou ; (10) Pe-ti-pin ; (11) Lakimi ; (12) V'iim-pan-
Kai ; (13) Hoan-ten ; (14) Choui-ho-ta ; (i5)Chiten;
(16) Tche-i-pin ; (17) To-y ; (18) Oueiten ; (19) Tcha-
Ho ; (20) Pan-ti-tuen ; (21) Pe-ki-suen ; (22) Hsiao-
Ouisi.

From Pe-ti-pin (10) there is a route in the direction
of Ly-kiang-F"ou, 5 days, passing Chen-chuan-cheou.
[N. 75°W.] This path can only join the actual river
bank at Yiim-pan-KaL

Almost opposite Tolo on the bank of the Mekong are
three mines : —

1. Near Puiten, small gold mine called Ta-fa-tchan,

dependence of Ly-kiang, distant h a day.

2. Pi-li-ho, in the vicinity of which is a mountain

named Papao, containing much gold and a little
silver, at i day's march.

3. Kong-kiang, gold mine, i day's distance.

Near Ouisi there is another mine — Long-pan-
tchan ; contains much silver and some gold.

P.VRT I\'. FONC-CHOUAN TO INDIA

Continuing N. of Zali and Ketseki are the villages of
Losa, Alidi, Ladamili, Ouatoudi (cord bridge and
boats). Opposite Ouatoudi there is a route leading
to the Kiou-kiang (F>. branch of the Irawadi).
I. A route leaves Kitcha and skirts the village of Nisa.
doing from Nisa southward one finds the following
villages along the river : — llo, Hepeti, Mecheu,
Hetolo, Aleuti, Ouatchouko, Lamouti, Tayon,
Chapo, Latonguie, Kalati, Fontien.
F'rom Nisa northward : — Lissa, Lamati, Ouetchedo,
Nysesalo, Tcheti, Lidzenoua, Chemito, Madji,
Pongnidi, Ooluga, Latsati, Poulatsa, Yoko.
2 Another route starting from Haiwa reaches the Sahven
at Latsa (near which is Metaka, on the height).
From Latsa to Tasou from i to 2 days, by llaka
and Tanda.
Names of villages between Tasou and Djewan : — Right
bank — Daga, Seugo, Seuke, Tadati, Dalati, Lopata,
Tcheukou, Macheuda, Tsato, Djewan. Left bank —
Badiama, Poladi, Litedi, lego, Tchelanda, Yuragan
(just opposite Djewan).

41 1

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Point of Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers about
which Information was col-
lected.

Ate NTS K

Route to Tsarong and I-ha(,a (practicable for
mules).

isf Day: Atent.se to Menkong [N. 60°]. From
Atentse follow the road from Verkalo as far as
Dong, then branch to the left across a small
range and descend on the bank of the Mekong at
Lieou-ten-kiao.

ind Day : Cross the Mekong by a good cord bridge,
and ascend the right bank as far as Merechu.

yd, ^/h, and ^/h Days : Three days are necessary
to cross the great chain (very lofty), which bears
in this district the name of Milechan (from
Milefou, a god worshipped in Thibet).

Eve/iini; of ^th Day : Sleep at Latou, near the
Oukio.

dth Day : Cross the Oukio by a wooden bridge.
Traverse a small chain, and sleep at Kiepo.

7/// Day : Recross the Oukio by bridge at Kiepo.
Surmount a chain, and sleep at Tchrana, near the
left Ijank of the Salwen.

Opposite Tchrana there is a good rope bridge ; on
the other side stands the Lamaserai of Menkong.

From Tchrana another route descends on Lakonra,
Aben, Longpou, Songta, and Tchamoutong
(Menkong to Tchamoutong, 7 days).

From Menkong a mule track leads in 6 days to
the prefecture of Sounga-Kieu-Dzong. A route
leaves this town in the direction of Ciamda and
Lhai^a across Pomi by Chiuden-(iomba. This
Pomi (or Poyul) is a large and wholly unexplored
country, which stretches to the west of the pro-
vince of Tsarong as far as Giamda. It is reputed
full of brigands and dangers, the refuge a[)[)arently
of ail the bandits of Thibet (?).

The Lha^a route quits the one just described at
Latou, near the Oukio, and ascends the course of
that river for 20 days to Pomda (way followed by
Father Desgodins from Menkong to Tsiamdo).
To the west of Pomda spreads a wide plateau, the
Tchan-tsao-pa, which takes 5 days to cross ; after
which one descends on to the Loutse-kiang
(.Salwen), which is spanned by a bridge, and
finally the traveller joins the Imperial high road
from Tatsien-lou to Lhaca at Oua-ho.
Route direct to Tatsien-lou, through the country of

Meli or Houang-Lama, 34 days at 1 2 or 1 5 m. a

day. [N. 60° E.] Practicable for mules.

41 2

appp:ndix a

Point of Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers about
which Information was col-
lected.

Ate NTS e — continued

Landjre

TOULONG

Stages — (i) Moulouchou (pass a chain before enter-
ing on the basin of the Blue River); (2) Tapin-
tin ; (3) Guiedam, on the right bank of the Kin-
cha-kiang (river negotiable in boats at all
seasons) ; (4) Teke ; (5) Kiao-Teou ; (6) Lompa;
(7) Koupi, on a lake said to be one-third the size
of Tali, in the plain of Tchong-tien, which takes
2 or 3 days to traverse ; (8) Tchong-tien, a small
town, up to which point the population is a mixed
one of Thibetans and Chinese, and after it ex-
clusively Thibetan ; (9) Pine, over a high moun-
tain range; (10) Lo-ti-ho, cross an affluent of the
Yang-tse; (ii)Lopo; (12) Houja ; (13) Tse-me-
ka-pa ; (14) Kiake ; (15) Lerou (commencement
of the Meli or Houang-Lama), cross the river by
bridge ; (16) Outia-po ; (17) in the mountains, no
villages; (iS) Meli, on the top of a mountain,
large Lamaserai (the only one on this route) —
cross a river which traverses the Kien-tchan, and
much lower down falls into the Yang-tse (doubt-
less the Yalong-kiang of Desgodins' map) ; (19)
Tongli-ke; (20) No-han-po ; (21) Tsemi-Roua
(plain) ; (22) Chake ; (23) Kint-chan (gold mine) ;
(24) Tchen-ke-ti (large plain); (25) (liti ; (26)
Paoulo (in the Setchuen), rope bridge over river;
(27) Tsene-keuti ; (28) Oucheu : (29) Tchaoualon
(large plain) ; (30) Motignia ; (31) Tchana ; (32)
Kontupo ; (33) Tchelo ; (34) Hatia-toung-ho,
Santa, Tatsien-lou.
Route easy, inhabitants peaceful, country very

mountainous, save for the few plains mentioned.
Note. — The spelling of all names on this route is
given under reserve, they having been furnished
me by a Chinese merchant of Atentse ; and the
Chinese generally disfigure Thibetan names by
their bad pronunciation.
This Thibetan village is situated at the confluence of two
branches of the river Lili. On the right flank of the
northern branch is cut a good road leading to Tsarong
and touching the .Salwen at Lakonra. [N. 60 \\'.]
Above Toulong in ascending the Kiou-kiang the follow-
ing places are found : — Mambili, Temedam, Kensoum
(left bank), Serawan (right bank), Chia-keu (left bank).
The inhabitants are Kioutses.
From Toulong to Chia-keu, 3 days. As far as Kensoum the
district pays tribute to the Yetche Mokoua. Serawan and
Chia-keu are under the authority of the Kampo Mokoua.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Voinl of Dcparliirc of Routes
und Names of Rivers aboiil
which Infornialion was col-
kcted.

Toi' i,ON( ; — continued

1 AMAI.O

Manikhm

Above Chia-keu the Kioutses pay tribute to Tsarong.

From Chia-keu to the Tsarong frontier, 3 days' march.
1 do not know the extent of these marches, but it
must be slight, as the Kioutses make only short
stages, and the tracks are detestable and full of
obstacles. Nor do 1 know to what latitude the valley
of the Kiou-kiang is inhabited. While telling me
there were 'I'hibetan villages on the course of the
river, the natives were unable to mention any by
name. Are there any ? 1 myself doubt it.

From Tamalo a very fair track descends the valley of
the Poula-Ho to the Salwen. [S. 40° E.]

From Mandouni going up the left bank of the river
Telo, a route, admitted to be very bad and dangerous
by the Kioutses themselves, leads in 8 days to the first
village 'I'setekon, passing afterwards by the following
localities : — Teunnami, J )umidan, Teloulandam, Tum-
sepou, Hadoumlanpoun, Malaipoun, Meteupoun,
'I'elalongpoum. The last named is said to be 28
days' (one moon) march from Mandoum, and only
7 or 8 days from the sources of the Telo. These
stages are evidently very short ; looking at the distance
as the crow flies, I am convinced that, whatever may
be the state of the track, the journey could be
accomplished in 15 or 20 days.

The natives who inhabit this region are Kioutses
and Lissous. The latter, who are in the minority,
must have come from the valleys adjacent to the
Kiou-kiang and the Lantakou, one of its affluents.
The country is cold, and only has one harvest a year.
Inhabitants very wild ; the Kioutses of Mandoum are
so timorous that they can hardly be said to have any
settled abode. There is no route communicating
between the villages on the higher waters of the Telo
and Thibet, and, speaking widely, none between
Thibet and the upper basin of the Irawadi. The
habitable zone between these two regions is of great
extent, and practically impassable. It was not to be
thought of to outflank T.sarong by our route in an
attempt to gain directly the great unexplored tract of
Pomi.

Towards the south, a route following the left bank of
the Neydu (or Tourong, or Kiou-kiang) passes the
following villages: — .Seloum, Dam,Terandam, loumtem,
Zangur, Manzing, Debondam, Konglam, Maboumgam,
Meyun, Panmeyin, Pise, Delinam, Dadzoum, Habour,
Seungoum, Singouhol, Sanchiel, Teran, Cionru,

414

APPENDIX A

I'oint of Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers about
which Inforuiation was col-
lected.

Mandoum — am tinned .

Duma

KhAM'I'I

Ouakoue, Rondam, Pombour, Loukinson, Serin-
danamzer, Zerta, Rekoui, Konglam, Kiangtou (at the
confluence of the Lantakou, or river of the golden
sands), Ouadamkoii.

No information farther south, except that below Kiang-
tou the country is said to be called Kioui, and the
people are Lissous. It is difficult to know where
the Kachins or Singphos begin along this branch of
the Irawadi.

PVom Mandoum to Kiangtou is 7 days' hard marching.
Inhabitants Kioutses and a few Lissous.

From Duma to the great plain of Hapon (or Apon, a
Kioutse name), situated at the confluence of the
Reunnam and the Tsan, and peopled by Singphos,
8 days' march down the Reunnam.

From Khamti into Assam, three routes : —

1. By the col of Chaukan or Tsaukan, S. 55° \\'. of

Padao and the sources of the Dihung ; no snow ;
but some risk from Singpho robbers, who,
according to the Khamti folk, take free toll of
travellers.
About 25 days' march to Sadiya. This is the
route that has been followed by all the English
expeditions that have been in Khamti (Wilcox,
Woodthorpe, Gray).

2. By the col of the Phungan-Boum (marked on my

map), 22 days. A good deal of snow on the col
from January to March, but never impassable. It
is the one most used by the dwellers in Khamti.

3. The third passes over higher, colder, and more

snow-encumbered cols, and is extremely difficult
in mid-winter ; moreover, for 4 days it traverses
a hitherto unexplored district, peopled by in-
dependent Mishmis, who are very hostile to
Europeans.
Stages — First 4 days up the valley of the Nam-
kiou, and that of the Nam- Yin, its most western
branch [N. 30° \\'.] ; 5th day, pass the col ; 6th,
descent ; 7th, down the valley of the Nam-
Delong (?) ; 8th, /</., sleep at Piaon-Kong, first
independent Mishmi village ; 9th, Koutika, id.,
reach the valley of the Nam-Derao (Khamti
name for the Lohit Brahmaputra) ; loth, Tong-
son, independent Mishmis; nth, Peshouson, id.;
1 2th, Tsantai, subject Mishmis; 13th, Belon, id.;
14th, Kamlong-Kong, id.; 15th, Mankao, Thais
or Khamtis ; 1 6th, Tsong-kan, id. (descend the

4' 5

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Point of Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers alioiit
which Information was col-
lected.

Khamti — continued

ROUTKS INTO BURMAH ,

valley of the Brahmaputra): 17th, Keloum,
Assamese ; 1 8th, Chuika, id. : 1 9th, Talap, id.
(by boat on the Brahmaputra) — point where the
railway from Dibrugarh begins — altogether 19
(lays. But Huoe-Daung, prime minister and
nephew of the king of Khamti, who was my
informant on the above itineraries, only estimated
our route by the Phungan-Boum at 19 days,
whereas it took 22 ; so that I believe 22 days
should be allowed for this one also, and 27 or 28
for the first of the three.
A'd/c. — Huoe-Daung had twice made the journey to
Bhamo and Mandalay, and showed me proofs that
each occasion was genuine. He gave in detail the
stages on the two routes which he had taken. Inas-
much as he was intelligent and endowed with a
remarkable memory, and as his information con-
cerning the Assam routes was confirmed by
e.xperience, I am inclined to place reliance on that
which he furnished with regard to Burmah. Yet,
in the A/ap of the Khimpour District^ Bor-Kampti
CoiDitry, Nat^a Hills, etc., published in 1894 by the
(jeographical Service of India, there is a route from
Khamti to Bhamo traced in accordance with
received intelligence, in which not one of the
names mentioned by Huoe-Daung appears. Can
this be a third route ? or is it possible that the
information supplied to the English by the Kachin
natives was intentionally erroneous ?
Route I. — Twenty-nine days from Khamti to Mogoung

(Burmese name) or Mainghong (Thai name), whence

by rowing or steam boat to Bhamo.
Stages — ist day, Langdao (Khamtis) : 2nd, Moung-
yac (Singphos or Kachins, Burmese name for
independent Singphos) ; 3rd, Kauka ; 4th, Nam-
doungra ; 5th, N'daian ; 6th, Lecho ; 7th, Hasa ;
8th, Kaition ; 9th, N'kam Lakan ; loth, N'da
Kelon ; i ith, N'ouat Tsaokan ; 12th, Haoutonka ;
13th, Menlon ; 14th, Deroupom ; 15th, Paning-
kou ; 1 6th, Nainting (from the 2nd to the i6th
day inclusive, independent Singphos); 17th,
N'bom ; i8th, Logna ; 19th, N'siensoing ; 20th,
Ningkon ; 21st, Menoupom ; 22nd, Tinka ; 23rd,
Lanikonglo ; 24th, Medouzop ; 25th, Lopan ;
26th, Maupangla (from the 17th to the 26th day
inclusive, subject Singphos) ; 27th, Poukan (Thais
or Shans) ; 28th, Loili (Thais); 29th, Mogoung.

416

APPENDIX A

Point of Departure of Routes
and Names of Rivers about
which Information was col-
lected.

Routes into Burmah Route 2. —Follows the valley of the western branch of
— continued the Irawadi and goes in t,t, days to Bhamo.

Stages — (i) Tsaukan (Khamtis) : (3) Kankiou
(Khamtis); (3) Keunong (Khanungs, Khaniti
name for Kioutses) ; (4) N'oan (independent
Singphos) ; (5) N'deun ; (6) Ningpien ; (7) Thaou-
masa (from the 7th to the i8th, ten days of very
I broken and almost barren country) ; (18) Komsen

(from the 4th to the iSth day inclusive, indepen-
dent Singphos); (19) Melgouchop ; (20) Seulo ;
(21) Melou ; (22) Ouavan ; (23) Ouavan ; (24)
Baokouka ; (25) Sinyangka ; (26) Pangin (tjn-
inhabited, marked on Enj^Iisk maps) ; (27) Pan-
kietsop (uninhabited, marked on English maps) ;
(28) Ouaton and Nong-nang (from the 19th to
the 28th day, subject Singphos) ; (29) Moung-
hom (Thais or Shans) ; (30) Maingna (Thais,
rowing boat; marked on English maps)-. (31)
Ouangmo ; (32) Katkiou (steamer) ; (33) Bhamo.
Finally, there is a third route, a combination of the
I other two; from Hasa (7th day of Route i) to
Komsen (i8th day of Route 2), in 7 or 8 days, by
I Singtan, N'baounon, and Kopian.

2 I) 417

APPENDIX B

BY THE AUTHOR

I

NATURAL HISTORY

I. MAMMALS'
On Ihe Collection of Mammals brought from Yunnan by Prince Henry of Orleans

By E. DE POUSARGUES

The 6o specimens of mammals collected by Prince Henry of Orleans in the course of
his journey across Yunnan may be divided into 28 species, of which 12 had not been
previously recorded, except in the province of Setchuen and the principality of Moupin,
or, in other words, on the eastern slope of the plateau of Thibet. These 12 have been
marked by an asterisk in the subjoined list. This extension of Thibetan forms into
Yunnan need not surprise us, since the whole of the north-west part of this province
of China is very elevated, its orographic system is closely connected with that of
Setchuen, of which it is in reality only the southern prolongation and termination, and
the border between the two districts is purely a virtual and administrative one. On
the other hand, none of the southern portion of Yunnan differs geographically from
Burmah, Upper Tonkin, and South-East China, and we recognise in the mammalogical
types brought from this region by Prince Henry most of the species already recorded
by Anderson on the frontiers of Yiinnan and Burmah, and by Swinhoe in the south-
eastern provinces of the Chinese Empire.

No new type figures in the following list, but many specimens have allowed of the
elucidation of several hitherto obscure points touching the affinity of certain species,
whilst others, representing forms which the Museum did not before possess, will prove a
valuable addition to our galleries.

*Nectog.\le Eleg.\ns (A.-A/. Edw.) ; native name, Khio-chi-oua ; 4 specimens.
*Uropsilus SoRiciPES (,-/.-.)/. ^(/rc'.): native name, Chi-oua-sandjiri; i specimen. —
The e.xistence in the north of Yiinnan of this hitherto rare member of the Insec-
tivora disposes of my recently published hypothesis restricting the habitat of the
Uropsilus to the principality of Moupin, and at the same time implies its
presence in Setchuen.
AiLURUS FuLGEXS {F. Cuv.)\ 2 specimens.- -The Panda is indicated by .Anderson
as more common on the borders of Burmah and Yunnan than in the Himalayas.
M.\RTES Fl.wigul.a {Bodd.); i specimen.— Anderson makes no mention of this
' Extract from the Bulletin du Mushim d'histoire naturelle, 1896, No. 5.

418

APPENDIX B

species, which, however, propagates in the west across Burmah and Assam as far
as Nepaul, where it has been recorded by Hodgson.

LuTRA MoNTicuLA? {Hodgs.) ; I specimen. — The skull of this otter having been
lost, its species is not capable of strict definition.

Canis Lupus, var. Pallipes {Syk.) ; 2 specimens.

Paguma Larvat.\ {Tern.); 5 specimens. — The province of Yiinnan would seem to
mark the western limit of the habitat of this Paradoxura ; no writer has recorded
it in Burmah, while it is common all over the south of China from Eastern
Thibet to Formosa.

VivERRA ZiEETHA, var. AsHTONi (Su'iiik.); 5 specimens. — In this variety the black
dorsal line, the black and white circles below the neck, and the large clearly
marked rings on the tail, merge with the rest of the hair in a slightly speckled
and almost regular grey tint.

Felis Tigris (Z.) : i specimen.

Felis Pardus (Z.j ; 5 specimens. — This panther belongs to the variety F. Fotitanieri
{A.-M. EduK).

Felis Parous, var. M.^i.\s {Desm.) ; i specimen. — These three large members of the
feline tribe are also recorded by Anderson in Western Yiinnan.

Felis Bengalensis, var. Pardochrous (Hodgs.) ; native name, Cku-ndzeu ; i speci-
men.— The Museum did not before possess any example of this beautiful variety
so clearly characterised by the shape of the spots on its coat. Anderson's
description applies exactly to the specimen in question : " The hair is of a bright
yellow colour mottled with numerous spots in shape like rosettes, and with small
black rings with centres of a tawny hue darker than the pale shade at the edge
of the rosettes. Of the four black stripes noticeable on the head the two outer
ones branch into two lines widening towards the shoulder-blades and enclosing a
space which is brown like the rosettes."

Felis Moormensis {Hodgs.) ; i specimen. — As in the last case, this species had not
up till now been represented in our galleries. The specimen offered by Prince
Henry of Orleans is that of a young one only half-grown ;. its coat of uniform
russet brown shows on the forehead and cheeks the grey and white streaks edged
with black which are characteristic of the species.

Felis Moor.mexsis, nir. Nigrescens {Hodgs.) ; i specimen. — Here the dark grey
coat has onh' preserved the shade of the form type in a large reddish-brown
patch between the shoulders, but the usual stripes on the face and the white
extremity under the tail are sufficient evidence of the specific identity of this and
the preceding.

Besides this dark variety of the F. Moormensis, another with a definitely
spotted 1 coat has been recorded without even a sub-specific denomination by
Blyth in 1 863 ; but this latter may probably belong to the following species.
*Felis Tristis {A.-Af. Ediv.) ; i specimen. — Numerous skins of this spotted species
have been sent to us at various times from Setchuen by Prince Henry of Orleans
and the missionaries at Tatsien-lou, and an examination of them has admitted of
an exact description of their affinities. It is with the F. Moor.mensis that the
F. Tristis is most nearly allied, and not, as supposed by Elliott, with the F.
Marmorata {Mart.), of which the tail is incomparably longer and the face
markings very different. In this latter respect, on the contrary, there is complete
similarity between the F. Moormensis and the F. Tristis, and the tail of the
latter not only presents the same proportions and shape as that of F. Moormensis,
but also the same shade distribution at the extremity of black above and white
beneath. Further, in all the specimens of the F. Tristis that I have investigated
there was that reddish band between the shoulders which I remarked above in
the dark variety of the Felis Moormensis.

' Blyth : a Xipalese specimen {F. Moormensis) in the India Museum is very distinctly and conspicu-
ously spotted {P.Z.S., 1863, p. 185).

419

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

*Felis Lynx, var. Isabeli.ina {Blyth) ; i specimen.
Pteromvs Yunnaxensis (Anifers.) ; 4 specimens, of which one young one was
exactly similar to the adults.

*Pteromvs Xaxthipes (A.-Af. Edw.) ; native name, Tattg-la ; 3 specimens. — This
species, described according to examples obtained at Tchely, was subsequently
met with at Setchuen.

*SciiRU.s Pernvi {A.-M. Edw.); native name, T/io>ig-/i ; 4 specimens.
SciCRUS Maccleli.andi {Horsf.) : native name, Thong-tchra ; 2 specimens.

*Mus Chevrieri {A.-A/. £du>.) ; native name, La-kha-thi-oua : 3 specimens.

*Rhizo.mvs Vestitus (A.-M. Edw.); native name, Gni-ma-chi-oua; 3 specimens. —
By its large dimensions, and above all by the extreme shortness of its tail,
this species is very distinct from those of the same race in India and Indo-
China.

*Lagomvs Tibetanus {A.-Af. Edw.) ; native name, Aoura ; i specimen.

*Nemorhedus CIriseus (A.-Af. Edw.); 1 sjjecimen. — This young one scarcely
measured 2 ft. 6 in. from the nose to the root of the tail ; the head was
still undeveloped : the dark-brown dorsal line was more strongly marked
than in the adult, beginning on the forehead in a small lock of bristly hair,
and continuing unbroken by the nape of the neck and the spine to the tuft
at the end of the tail.
Nemorhedus Euwardsi (Dav.) ; 2 pairs of horns.

*Budorcas Taxicola (ffodgs.) ; 2 pairs of horns.
MoscHUS MoscHiFEKUS (L.); I Specimen.

*Cervli,us Lacrvmaxs {A.-Af. Ed-w.) ; i specimen.

On a Gibbon of a New Species from Upfer Tonkin

By E. DE PoU.«ARGUES

Hyloi;ates Henrici (nov. spec).

H. colore flavo ; supra pi/is ad basim inienso, apicem versus pallide flavescentibus

cinereoque dilutissime tinctis ; infra pilis unicolorihus : pectore inferior e,

(txil/is abdomineque e stramineo luteis : sed genis, mento, gula, cnllo inferiore

pectoreque mammarum tenus splendide fulvis, rutilis, quasi auratis. Vertice,

nucha colloque superiore mediis nigerrima notatis macula elongata, angusta,

fusiforme, longiore ter quam latiore et abrupte circumcisa.

0 Adult. Type, Lai-Chau, Tonkin, 1892. Prince Henry of Orleans.

The Museum unfortunately only possesses one incomplete skin of this (iibbon,

mutilated of its fore members from the wrist and of its hind members from the

knee. One of the callosities as well as the genital and anal organs have also

disappeared. The development of the breasts indicates a full-grown female. The

following are the measurements : —

Length of head and body from nose to callosities

„ upper arrr. ........

fore aim .

Kt.

In.

»

.si

0

9i

0

IIt

The prevailing tint of the coat is a glossy bright yellow varying in intensity in
different parts of the body from pale to golden. On the upper surface of the
head and trunk the hair is thick, long, and fleecy, merging from deep yellow at
the roots into a lighter slightly grisled shade towards the extremities. This grey

420

APPENDIX B

tinge is much less extensive and pronounced on the outer hind part of the
members, where the fur is shorter and of a warmer hue. On the fore limbs
this colouring is uniform to above the wrist, and probably continued so on the
upper side of the paws, though it is not possible to speak with certainty in
regard to the extremities of the hind legs in consequence of their having been
amputated too high. A large longitudinal black patch starts from the centre
of the vertex i| in. behind the line of the eyebrow, widening over the top of
the cranium, maintaining an even breadth for a space, and gradually contracting
again as it foUott's the middle of the back of the neck from the nape to the
beginning of the shoulder-blade, where it fines to a point. This marking is in
no way similar in shape to the more or less dark and sometimes vaguely defined
semicircular cap in other species. H. pileatus (Gr.), H. Mulleri (Mart.),
H. Javaiiicus (Mtsch.).

In the monkey in question the length of this streak, 5i in., much exceeds its
breadth, which at its maximum is only i| in. Its width is clearly defined, giving
it the appearance of a long black stem in strong contrast to the surrounding
yellow surface. On the brow in front of this black patch the hair is of a
uniform rather light yellow turning to deep orange tawny on the cheeks, sides
of head, chin, throat, under side of neck, and top of the chest as far as the
breasts. Upon the remainder of the chest, stomach, and inner face of the limbs
the covering is fairly long but not thick, and of a regular pale yellow. Just
over the eyes the yellowish-white hair mixed with a few silky black threads
traces a narrow border on the superciliary arch too faint to merit the name of a
frontal band. The bald skin of the face is dark brown ; and the ears, of the
.same colour, are rounded, minute, and entirely hidden in the surrounding growth,
although bare themselves save for some long black hairs on their inner edge,
which meet at the top of the cavity in a thin tuft.

On account of these different peculiarities I have thought it proper to distinguish
this Gibbon specifically under the name of Hylobates Hetirici in honour of Prince
Henry of Orleans, to whom its discover)- is due. This particular skin was taken
at Lai-Chau (Tonkin), a little to the north of the Black River and not far from
the southern frontier of Yiinnan.

I do not believe the H. Heiirici can be considered to be a hitherto unrecorded
variety of an already known species in the regions of the vicinity. The females
of the lar and hoolock Gibbons from Burmah and the north of Siam often change
their coat to a yellow somewhat resembling that of the H. Henrici, but paler
and mostly of a yellowish-grey, with the white whiskers and frontal band always
visible. It is further to be noted that neither Blyth nor Anderson, who had
many opportunities for close study of a large number of these animals, have
ever recorded the presence of a black cephalic patch, and this peculiarity is
moreover cited as a distinctive characteristic by ^I. Matschie in his review of
the species of the genus Hylobates}

Among the females of the species H. pileatus (Gr.) of Siam and Cambodia, the
roots of the hair are not yellow, but vary from white in the young to brown turning
to grey in the adults ; the black cephalic patch, either oval or semicircular, is shaped
like a skull-cap of about equal length and breadth, which only involves the vertex,
and is divided from the eyebrow line by a narrow white band ; while, lastly, as soon
as the first signs of the coif become manifest, there appears on the chest a corre-
sponding black patch which spreads rapidly with the maturity of the animal, covering
the abdomen, mounting beneath the neck to the throat, and in old females reaching
even the chin and the whiskers.

^^'ould it not seem likely, on the other hand, that the H. Henrici may be
identical with the yellow Gibbon of the island of Hainan which .Swmhoe- has

' Matschie. — Sitzber, Ges, natttrf. Fr., Berlin, pp. 209, 210. 1893.
- Proc. Zool. Soc. London, p. 224. 1870.

421

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

merely recorded in these few words : " The Golden-silk Yuen which is yellow . . .
difficult to procure " ? Careful research throughout that island, on the south-west
coasts of China, and in the north of Tonkin, alone can settle the question and deter-
mine at the same time if this yellow colour is common to both sexes of this (Hbbon,
or if there is a sexual dichroism as in the case of other species.

2. BIRDS

Note on the Birds collected in ] 'iinnan by Prince Henry of Orleans in the
course of his recent Journey from Tonkin to India '

By M. E. OusTALET

From his travels through Tonkin, Viinnan, the independent parts of Upper
Burmah, Southern Thibet, and Assam, Prince Henry of Orleans has brought back a
large number of birds, which he has generously presented to the Museum ot Natural
History. This collection is one of great interest, not only on account of the presence
of several new forms, but also for the hitherto unpublished particulars which it
furnishes upon the ornithological fauna of Viinnan, of which province the western
part alone, in its contiguity to Burmah, had been explored from the zoological point
of view by the English naturalist John Anderson in 1868 and 1875. ^he Prince
and his companions, on the contrary, traversed the south, the north-west, and the
centre of Viinnan, which they entered in the beginning of February 1895 by way of
Laokay on the Red River. After first proceeding in a westerly direction by Manhao
and Ssumao to the Mekong, they ascended to the north, past Tali-Fou, and with
many windings and repeated crossings of the great river arrived at Tsekou on the
19th of August. Profiting by an enforced delay of two weeks in this locality, Prince
Henry remitted thence to the Museum, as he had already done from Tali-P'ou, a
portion of his collections, and obtained with the help of the missionaries stationed at
Tsekou new specimens, which are not the least interesting part of the w'hole. Tsekou
itself is really situated in Thibetan territory at a comparatively slight distance south
of the mission post of Verkalo, whence the Abbe Desgodins had sent the Museum
many rare specimens, and of the route from Batang to Tatsien-lou which Prince
Henry and M. Bonvalot followed some years ago on their way to Setchuen, along
which they made such a fine collection at the time. Tatsien-lou, which, thanks to
Mgr. Biet and Fathers Mussot, Soulie, and Dejean, has lately furnished rich
ornithological contributions to the Museum, itself forms part of that province of
Setchuen where the Abbt^ A. David had made several of his most important
discoveries. We are not surprised, therefore, to meet in the series of birds arranged
by Prince Henry at Tsekou with many forms of the Upper Mekong, Thibet, and
Setchuen that were already familiar in the accumulations of the above-mentioned
naturalists. As I have before had occasion to remark, the valley of the Mekong, in
the upper part of which Verkalo and Tsekou are situated, constitutes one of the
natural outlets by which a part of the ornithological fauna of Thibet and Setchuen
finds its way into Viinnan and Indo-China.

From Tsekou the expedition turning sharp to the west crossed successively the
Salwen, the Irawadi, and their affluents, and on the 24th December 1895 reached
Sadiya in Assam, where the perilous part of the journey ended.

During this period of eleven months Prince Henry of Orleans secured nearly
200 specimens of birds, the majority of which now figure in the public collection of
the Museum. A careful study of these, just completed, shows them to belong to
' E.xtract from the Bulletin du Mushim ifhi'stoire naturelle, 1896, Nos. 5 and 7.

APPENDIX B

1 2 1 species, more than two-thirds
latter the following is the list : —

of which were not met with by Anderson. Of the

PaiiEornis Salvadorii (Oust.).

Accipiter nisus (L.).

Cerchneis ti/uiii/ici/lus (L.).

G/aitcidium Brodiei (Burt).

Cyanops Davisoni (Hume).

Gecinus Gueriiii (Malh.).

Picus (Hypopicus) hyperythriis (^'ig.).

lynx torquilla (L.).

Cuculus poliocephalus (Lath. ).

Upiipa epops (L.).

j'Ethopis^a Seherice, var. labecula

(McCl.).
Diavum ignipectiis (Hodgs.).
Chloropsis aurifrons (Tem.).
Merula Gouldi (J. V.).
Turdus ruficollis (Pall.).
T. pallidtis i^X&va.).
Mont kola cyanea (L.).
Ruticilla aurorea (Gm.).
R. frontalis (Vig.).
Rhxacornis fuliginosa (Vig.).
Nemiira rufilafa (Hodgs.).
Suioria longicaudata (Lath.).
Brachypteryx en/ rails (Hodgs.).
Notodela leuaira (Hodgs.).
Prima gracilis (Frankl.).
Phylloscopus liigiihris (Tick.).
Ph. proregulus (Pall.).
Ph. fulvifacies (Swinh.).
Myiophoneiis Eugenei (Hume).
Garrulax alblgularis (Gould).
G. pectoralis ((Jould).
Baba.x lanceolatus (J. Y.).
Trochalopteron Ellioti (J. ^'.).
T. squainatiim (Gould).
Pomatorhlnits Macdellandi, var.

Armandi (Oust.) ?
Conostoma amodlum (Hodgs.).
Otocompsa flaviventris (Tick.).
Crinlger Henrki (n. sp.).
Malacias pukhella (G. A.).
M. Desgodinsi (Dav. and Oust.).
Pyctorhis sinensis (Gm.).
J\iyxornis rubricapilla (Tick.).
Ixulus Rouxi (n. sp.).
Staphidla torqueola (Swinh.).
Alcippe Phayrei {V,\.).

4(3.

47-
48.
49.
5°-
51-
52-
53-
54-
55-

4-

5-
6.

7-
8.

9-
10.
II.

12.

13-
14.

15-
16.

17-
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.

23-
24.

25-
26.
27.
28.
29.
30-
31-
32-
iZ-
34-
35-

36.

37-

*38.

39-

40.

41-
42.

*43-
44.

45-

By adding these 91 species to the
the same province, we get a total of 206, in itself a considerable number, but
certainly not even yet representing the whole of the ornithological fauna of
Viinnan. As might be supposed, this fauna exhibits a mixed character, and partakes
at once of that of Thibet, India, and Indo-China.

Alcippe (Proparus) Bieti (Oust.).
Yuhina dlademata (J. X .).
Y. giilaris (Hodgs.).
S. singula (Hodgs.).
Leiothrix luteus (Scop.).
Cutia nipalensis (Hodgs.).
Troglodytes nipalensis (Hodgs.).
Sitta ccesia (Mey. and \\'.).
S. villosa (J. v.).
Certhia himalayana (Mg.).
•,6. Parus minor (Tem. and Schl.).

57. Parus tnonticolus (^'ig.).

58. P. dichrous (Hodgs.).

59. P. ater, var. cvniodius (Hodgs.).

60. Panis {Machlolophus) rex {.\. Dav.).

61. Acredula concinna {(mxAA).

62. A. Bonvaloti (Oust.).

63. Ptererythrius rufiventris (Blyth).

64. Buchanga leucophcea (\'.).

65. Oriolus Traiili (Vig.).

66. Graucalus Macei (Less.).

67. Alseonax latirostris (Raffl.).

68. Muscicapula maculata (Tick.).

69. Cltelvdorhvnx hvpoxantha (Hodgs.).

70. Cryptolopha cinereocapilla (Hutt.).
C. tephrocephala (Hodgs.).
Niltava sundara (Hodgs.).
Motacilla Hodgsoni (Bl.).
A/icrocichla Scouleri (\'ig.).

75. Emberiza spodocephala (Pall.).

76. Pycnorhampus affinis (Blyth).
•■77. Chrysomitris ainbigua (n. sp.).

Passer rutilans (Tem.).
Mutiia acuticauda (Hodgs.).
Dendrocitta himalayensis (^'ig.).
Columba leuconoia (Mg.).
Dendrotreron Hodgsoni (^'ig.).
Treron {Spite mice reus) sphenurus

(Vig.).
Ithagims cruentus (Hardw.).
Ceriornis Temmincki (Gr.).
Pucrasia Meyeni (Mad.).
Nycthemerus Andersoni (Ell.).
Arboricola Henrici (y\. sp.).
Erythrura phcenicura (Penn.).

90. Actitis hypoleucus (L.).

91. Charadrius fulvus (Gm.).

recorded by Anderson in the west of

71-

72.
73-
74-

/O.

79-
80.
81.
82.
83-

84.
85-
86.
87.
*88.
89.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

It possesses, however, certain species belonging to itself, of which four had not
hitherto been recorded, and the discovery of which is due to Prince Henry of Orleans.
These are inarked by an asterisk in the jireceding list, and a few words must be
devoted to their diagnosis.

Criniger Henrici, n. sp. — Species near akin to that of the Crini};er i^iitturallis
(Bp.) of Sumatra, Borneo, Malay Peninsula, and Tenasserim, but distinguished from
it by a larger size, different proportions in the remiges, and by the colour of the
under part of the body, which is more strongly interspersed with yellow and almost
develops into red beneath the lower tail-feathers. The inner edges of the wing are
also brighter, of a yellowy or reddish white. Entire length of bird, 9.8 in. ; of
wing, from 3.90 to 4.5 in. ; of primary remige, 1.08 in. ; of tail, 4.33 in. ; of beak
(upper edge), .70 in. ; of tarsus, .82 in.

This species is found at once in the south of Yunnan and the north of Tonkin.
The above description has been taken from four specimens, male and female, of
which one was killed on the 25th of March 1895 between Manhao and Ssumao
(Viinnan) on the banks of the Black River, while the others were obtained by Prince
Henry on a former expedition at Nam-Xong, Ban-Moi, and Hat-Hoa (Tonkin) on the
17th, 19th, and 25th of February 1892.

IxuLUS Rouxi, n. sp. — Much resembles the Ixii/us flavicollis (Hodgs.) of the
Himalayan region in its system of colouring, but differs from it in the shade on the
top of the head, which is of a deep brown slightly tinged with grey and not of a
chestnut brown, also in its greater size and more developed wings. Entire length
of bird, 5.59 in.; of wing, z.55 in.; of tail, 2.1 1 in.; of beak, .39 in.; of tarsus,
.74 in. I have, unfortunately, only had one specimen for examination, a female,
killed on the 23rd of March 1895 in Viinnan, on the borders of the Ly-sien-kiang
or Black River.

Chrvsomitris Ambigua, n. sp. — A most interesting form, recalling in a striking
manner certain Tarins of the New World, notably the Clirysomitris notata (Du Bus) of
Central America, by its hood of dark, almost black hue, its green mantle, the green
shade of yellow on the under parts of its body, the golden markings at the base of the
tail, and by the large yellow pattern that pervades a chief part of the remiges and
adorns the wings. The hood in this case, however, stops short beneath upon the
chin and middle of the throat, the shoulder is of a duller green and not distinctly
spotted with black, while the breast is instead flecked with greenish-brown ; the tint
on the abdomen also tends to green verging on the sides to rus.set grey, and not as
in the other of a brilliant yellow ; finally, the proportions are not the same as the
Chrysomitris notata, those of the Clirysomitris ambigua being : entire length of bird,
5. II in. ; of wing, 3.14 in. ; of tail, 2.00 in. ; of beak, .39 in. ; of tarsus, 3.54 in.

Four birds of this species were killed by the Prince, namely, one female at
Mienning (\'unnan) on the 7th of May 1895; one male on the 13th of May
at Viinchou, a little north of Mienning : one male and one female on the banks
of the Vang-pi-kiang, an affluent of the ^lekong, on the 23rd of May.

This species does not, however, appear rigidly confined to Yunnan, for in the
numerous collection of birds recently sent to the Museum by Father Dejean
from Tatsien-lou I have been confronted with the same Tarins, closely allied
to birds exhibiting the exact characteristics of the Chinese greenfinch, of the
Chluris sinica (L.), of which the Museum already possessed specimens obtained
at Pekin and at Moupin by the Abbe A. David. But what is more curious,
there exists in this same collection from Tatsien-lou all the transitions between
the specimens resembling those I have just described under the name Chrysomitris
ambigua and the specimens identical with the Chloris sinica of Moupin and
Pekin. These transitions are manifested not only in a modification of the shoulder
tint, which from green becomes a clear chocolate -brown, in the shade of the
under parts, which passes from yellowy -green to bright reddish -brown, and in
the fading and gradual entire disappearance of the hood, but also in a thickening

424

APPENDIX B

and shortening of the beak, which becomes wholly that of a greenfinch. As for
the wings and tail, they undergo no change, these parts being already correspond-
ingly coloured in both the Chrysoiiiitris auibigua and the Chloris sinica.

From these facts, based on the comparison of a series of fifty specimens, it
might be concluded that the Chloris sinica and the Chrysomitris ambigiia con-
stitute in reality only one and the same species, very variable, of which the old
birds develop a green livery and black hood. But then how comes it that this
black hood and this green livery have never as yet been observ'ed in the many
specimens of the Chloris sinica which naturalists have had under their inspection
from the time of Linnaeus, and which figure in the large museums of Europe ?
It seems more reasonable to me to regard the Chrysomitris ambigua as a Yimnan
species, the area of whose habitat is contiguous on the northern side with that
of the Chloris sinica, and to suppose that on the confines of their respective
regions the breeds, already closely allied, are subject to frequent crossing.

As I have already remarked, the two species Chloris and Chrysomitris are
extremely near akin ; and it is an error, in my opinion, to arrange them as in
the catalogue of the British Museum in two different tribes of the family of the
FringillidcB. Already the Chrysomitris spinoides (Mg.) of the Himalayas and
Setchuen exhibits the plumage of a Tarin with the beak of a greenfinch.

Arboricol.^ Henrici, n. sp. — A. Torqueola affinis, sed mento rufo, gula nigro
maculata, tergo, caudae tecticibus rectricibusque dorsi modo transversim radiatis,
abdominis lateribus castaneo colore carentibus distincta.

Entire length of bird, 10.03 to 12.59 in.; of wing, 5.11 to 5.90 in. ; of tail,
2.16 to 2.55 in.; of beak, .78 in. ; of tarsus, 1.49 in.

Hab. Tonkin and prov. Kuang-tri (Annam).

Crest for most part black ; front and lower jaw fawn ; neck speckled black
on tawny : shoulder streaked transversely and regularly with black on olive,
prolonged to the tail coverts and even as far as the rectrices, and not broken
behind by triangular patches or bands as in the Arboricola torqueola ; wings
presenting same markings as in the latter species ; breast brownish -red, more
uniform than the Arboricola torqneola without the small white flecks ; thighs
verging towards olive -brown, with feathers marked by large terminal black patch
preceded by a white one, but not speckled with chestnut ; beak brown ; feet red.

The foregoing description is taken from two specimens from different sources :
one presented to the Museum by Prince Henry of Orleans, and obtained by
him at Maison (Tonkin) on the 20th of February 1892, in the course of his former
travel in Indo-China ; the other acquired by Father Renauld, and coming
from the same province as the Carpococcyx, that is to say, the province
of Kuang-tri (Annam). The first of these birds is indicated as a female, and
is somewhat smaller in size than the other. Its beak is a little deformed, and
the plumage slightly altered, so that, while detecting different characteristics from
those of the Arboricola torqiteola, I was satisfied to designate it in the collec-
tions of the Museum under the manuscript name of Arboricola Henrici,
and postponed giving a description of the species, which immediately struck me
as a new one, until I should have another specimen under my scrutiny. The
arrival of this second example, moreover, admits of a considerable extension
towards the south of the habitat area of the species, which is evidently to be
found throughout the entire mountain and forest region that separates Annam
from Laos.

In addition to the above species there are many others in Yiinnan on which
I should have wished to say a few words, but I hof)e to be able to investigate
them in an ulterior work.

425

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

3. LKPIDOPTERA
Collected in Yunnan
Classified by M. Oherthur at Rennes
(i) Rhopalocera

Papilio Machaon, Li/uneiis.

„ Alcinous, A7«.^,^

„ Chentsong, Oberthiir.

,, Protenor, Cramer.

,, Pammon, LiiiiKeits.

„ Lama, Ol'erthiir.

„ Bianor, Cramer.

„ Paris, Lhinaus.

„ Cloanthus, Weslwood.

„ Xuthus, Linmeus.

,, Erithonius, Cramer.

„ Arcturus, U'eshvood.

„ Horatius, Blanchard.

„ Tamerlanus, Oherthiir.

„ Mandarinus, Oherthiir.
Armandia Thaidina, Blanchard.
Parnassius Imi)crator, Oberthiir.
Pieris Goutellei, Oberthiir.

„ Bieti, Oberthiir.

,, Martinet!, Oberthiir.

„ Cliciria, Cramer.

,, Belladonna, Fabricius.
Colias Fieldii, Mcnctrics.
Gonepteryx Amintha, Blanchard.

Dercas \Vallichii, Doubleday.
Acraea Vesta, Fabricius.
Danais Chrysippus, Linmeus.
,, (ienutia, Cramer.
„ Tytia, Gray.

„ Melaneus, Cramer.
Melitfea Yuenty, Oberthiir.
Argynnis Niphe, Linnaus.
,, Laodice, Fal/as.
Limenitis Elwesi, Oberthiir.
Apatura Bieti, Oberthiir.
,, Fulva, Leech.
,, Princeps, Fi.xseii.
Charaxes Clitiphon, Oberthiir.
„ Rothschildi, Leech.
„ IMenedemus, Oberthiir.

Araschnia Prorsoides, Blanchard.

,, Davidi, Foiijade.
Kallinia Inachus, Boisduval.
Satyrus Merlina, Oberthiir.

„ Palma, Kollar.
Neope Agrestis, Oberthiir.
lirebia Polyphemus, Oberthiir.
Dejeania Bicolor, Oberthiir.

Tropsea Selene, H'ubner.
Lcepa Katinka, Westwood.
Ophideres Ancilla, Cramer.

(2) Heterocera

Ophideres Fullonica, Linnceiis.
Calesia Hajmorrhiua, Giienee.
Urapteryx crocoptcrata, Kollar.

4. PLANTS

List of Flants collected by the Expedition. (For localities the reader is re/erred to the

dates in the text of the book. )

Arranged by M. A. Franchet

Note. — Names of species preceded by an asterisk are new : their descriptions will Iju jiiublished
in the Bulletin de la Socit'tc bolanique de France.

RaNUNCUI.ACE/E

Clematis chrysocomoides. Branch., 10 Ranunculus pennsylvanicus, Foir., 15
June. March.

,, florida, Sieb. Ziicc, 1 1 July. Trollius patulus,i Salisb., 1 1 July.

Anemone rivularis, Liamilt., i May. *Trollius yunnanensis, Franch., 13 Sept.

,, coelestina, Franch., 19 June. *Aconitum pumilum, Franch., 14 Sept.

^L\GN0LL\CE/E

Michelia yunnanensis, Franch., 27 February.
' Petals much shorter than stamens ; the stems attaining 27. 55 in. Plant altogether new for the region.

420

APPENDIX B

Papaverace.*
*Meconopsis multicaulis, Franch., 14 September.

Cruciferace^
Cardamine sylvatica, Li>tk., 9 March.

Fumariace.e
Corydalis Raddeana, Hegel. (?), 1 1 July. Corydalis echinocarpa, Franch., 1 2 .Sept.
,, echinocarpa, />-(7«ir/i., 2 March „ sp. „ 12 Sept.

at Loutsou-chin. i

Violari*
Viola Patrinii, Patrin., 17 June. Viola japonica, Langs., 28 February.

„ diffusa, Ging., 5 March. ,, Delavayi, Franch., 23 May.

Polygalace.«
*Polygala yunnanensis, Franch., 27 February.

Caryophyll.\ce.«
Silene rubicunda, Franch., 1 7 June. | Cerastium triviale, Link., 5 March.

Stellaria uliginosa, Murr., 9 March.

HVPERICACE/E

Hypericum patulum, Thiinh., 27 February and 23 May.
, „ sp. 15 March.

GERANIACE.C

Geranium nepalense. Sweet, 28 Feb. Geranium sp., 9 March.

„ yunnanense, Franch., 11 July. O.xalis corniculata, Z., 12 February.

,, palustre, L., van, 11 July. Biophytum sensitivum, DC, 18 .April.

„ strigosum, Franch., var., 18 Impatiens sp., 29 April.

June. .\verrhoa Carambola, Z., 30 March.

RUTACE^

Bcenninghausenia rutsefolia, Z*!'///'., 11 |uly.

CELASTRINACE-t

Euonymus sp., 14 September.

Cedrelace.e
Munronia Uelevayi, Franch., 20 May.

LKGUMINOS.t;

Crotalaria ferruginea, Grah., 15 March. *Lespedeza sericophylla, Z>-fl';/cA.,9March.
,, ,, 29 April. Desmodium parvifolium, DC, 9 March.

Lotus corniculatus, Z., 15 P'ebruary. Flemmingia Grahamiana, Arn., 15 Feb.

GuldenstKdtia yunnanensis, Franch. ,\ax., Dalbergia, 18 June.

19 June. Bauhinia Faberi, 0/iv., 15 April.

Astragalus Sinicus, Lamk., i May.

ROSACE/E

Spiraea lanuginosa, Franch., 11 July. ' *Potentilla ampliflora, Franch., 14 Sept.,

,, japonica, var. wa///o/;<7, 15 Feb. 11 July.-

Princepia utilis, Royle, 15 Feb. „ peduncularis, Don., 19 June.

Rubus rossefolius, Lin., 15 March. ' „ leuconota, Don., 11 July.

Fragaria indica, Z., 15 March. .Agrimonia Eupatoria, Z., 24 May.

Potentilla Kleiniana, Wight., 5 March. Pyrus Malus, Z., 24 April.

427

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

SAXlFRACiACE.t

*Astilbe Henrici, Fra/ic/i., ii Iul\-. I Deutzia staniinea, Br., 15 March.

Saxifraga sp., 14 July. I ,, glomeruliflora, J-'ranch., 24 May.

Dichroa febrifuga, Lour., 27 .\\>n\. ' Philadelphus coronarius, L., van, 23 May.

Cr.\ssul.\ce^
Bryophyllum calycinum, Salish., 12 February.

LVTHRAKIACE.F,

Woodfordia floribunda, Sa/isl>., 9 March.

GiNOTHER.XCE.-Ii

Epilobium angustifolium, Lam/;., 11 July. [ Epilobium hirsutuni, L., 24 April.

Passiflor.\ce^
Passiflora yunnanensis, Franch., 19 March.

^ r ELASTOM ACE.E

Osbeckia sp., 12 September. 1 Blastu.s sp., 14 October.

Allomorpha pauciflora, Beiith., 1 2 .Sept. I

U.M BELLI FER/E

CEnanthe linearis, Wall., 24 April.
*Pleurospermum heracleifolium, Franch., 1 1 July.

CORNACE^

Cornus capitata, Wall., 19 June.

RUBIACE.T.

Wendlandia glabrata, DC, 1 1 February. | Ophiorrhiza japonica, B/iime, 1 2 Sept.

LONICER.E

Lonicera acuminata, Jl'a//., 19 June.

„ longiflora, DC, 1 5 April.
Leycesteria formosa, ll'a//., 20 May.

"■X'iljurnum parvifolium, Franch., i May.
„ sp., 18 March.

\'a],erl\nacea:

Patrinia scabio.s£efolia, Fisch., 23 Sept.

Valeriana Hardwichii, Wall., i May.
Wallichii, DC, 18 March.

DlI'SACE.V,

Morina Delavayi, Franch., 1 1 July, i 7 June.

COMPOSIT.f.

Aster trinervius, Roxh., 15 March. | Vicoa auriculata, DC, 9 March, 2 May.

„ sp., 15 March.
,, Bietii, Franch., Journ. ile but., \. p.
373-

Gnaphalium multiceps, DC, i May (this

plant is cooked and eaten by the natives).

Gnaphalium (Anaphallis) nubigenum,

Erigeron Alpinus, L., 24 May. DC, var. la.xiim.

„ „ var. Roylei, DC, 1 1 (Gnaphalium (Leontopodium) alpinum,

February. Scop., i May.

Blumea glomerata, DC, 12 February. Gnaphalium (Leontopodium) Chinense,

„ lacera, DC, 15 March. Fr., 14 September.

428

APPENDIX B

Gnaphalium (Leontopodium) Dedekensii,

Bur. a)id Franch., i8 June.
^Gnaphalium (Leontopodium) tenuifolium,

Fr., 19 ^lay, 27 February.
Emilia sonchifolia, DC, 12 February.
GynUra primatifida, DC, 15 March.
Senecio Oldhamianus, Afaxim., 16 Feb.
,, phalacrocarpus, Ham., 14 Sept.
„ Principis Franch.,Jmirn. de hot.,
X. 412.
* „ tenuipes, Franck., 1 1 July.

Saussurea lingulata, Franch., Joiirn. de

hot., X. p. 423.
Hemistepta lyrata, Bunge., 18 March.
*Cnicus paucisquamatus, Franck., i .May.

Gerbera piloselloides, Cass., 29 April.
* „ Chinensis, Franch., 15 March.
Lactuca grandiflora, Franch., 30 July, 15
September.
„ sp., 12 March.
Crepis japonica, Benth., 1 2 March.

Adenophora sp., 12 July.
Codonopsis convolvulacea, C. Kurz., 12
July.

C.\MP.\NULACE.t

Campanumsea pilosula, Franch., 12
September.

^'accinium Donianum, Wight., 19 March.
Pieris ovalifolia, Don., 29 April.
Rhododendron ciliicalyx, Franch., 9 May.
* „ oxyphyllum, Franch., 30

March.

Eric.\ce.«

Rhododendron indicum, L., 18 March,
27 February,
sp., 15 March.
„ Delavavi, Franch., 18

March.

Plu.mb.\ginace^

Plumbago Zeylanica, L., 18 March.
*Primulacyclaminifolia, /7-rt;/(-^., 18 March.
* „ microdonta, Franch., 15 Sept.
„ Poissoni, Franch., 2 May.

Primula denticulata, Sm., 15 February.

„ sp., 16 February.
^■Lysimachia plicata, Franch., 24 May.

Styr.^ce^
Styrax ser. ulatum, Roxh., 30 May. | Symplocos crataegoides, Ham., 2 May.

Ole.\ce.c

Forsythia suspensa, VahL, 15 February.
Jasminum sp., 4 March.

Jasminum sp., 15 February.
,, sp., 9 March.

Apocyn.a.ce.«
Beaumontia grandiflora, JFa//., 1 4 .April.

LoG.\NIACE.E

Budleia asiatica, £., 27 February.

Gentian.\ce.e

Gentiana tenella, i^(?r«., 23 September. [ Crawfurdia fasciculata, 1 1 'a//., 14 Sept.

,, delicata. Ham., 23 September. * „ grandiflora, Franch.

„ decemfida, Biich., 29 April. Swertia, 12 September.

„ serra, Franch., 15 February. ,, 12 September.

„ Elwesii, Clarke, 23 September. Italenia elliptica, Z?. ZJo//., 12 September.
„ ,, 14 September.

Boragine.e

Cynoglossum furcatum. Wall,, 15 March,
16 February.

Trigonotis peduncularis, Maxim., 1 2 Sept.
Myosotis sylvatica, Sfoffm., 11 July.

429

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

CONVOLVULACE^

Argyreia sp., 15 April. Evolvulus alsinoides, Z., 9 March.

IponiKa quissata, Rob. Br., 4 July.

SCROPHULARIACE*

Brandita Hancei, Hook., 15 March. Pedicularis Elwesii, //(W/J., 14 September.

Torrenia peduncularis, Beiith., 23 Oct. „ 24 May.

Veronica, 11 July. „ 11 July (tcr.).

Phteirospermum tenuisectum, Bur. and
Franch., 18 June.

Gesneriace.*:
^schinomene acuminatus, Wall., 12 July.

BlGNONlACE^

Incarvillea Delavayi, Frauch. and Sav., iS June.

ACANTHACE/E

Baleria sp., 9 May. | Asystasia sp., 5 March.

Peristrophe sp., 28 March. j Strobilanthus sp., 11 July.

Labiat.*;

Scutellaria rivularis, Wall., 1 5 April.
,, sp., 18 June.
*Salvia falcilabra, Franch., 18 June.
platycalyx, Franch., 1 1 July.

*Plectranthus Yunnanensis, Franch., 18

June.
*Elsholtzia theezans, Franch., 15 March

(used instead of tea by the natives).
Calamintha umbrosa, Benth., var. micro- I Ajuga ciliata, Bunge, 15 March.

phylla, 1 7 June.

POI.YGONACE^

Polygonum Bistorta, /., 11 July, 27 February.

Laurace^
LitsKa sp., 5 March.

ThYMEL/EACE^

Stellcra Chamcejasme, /., 27 February. | Stellera sp., 19 June.

EUPHORBIACE/E

Euphorbia Jolkini, Boiss7 5 March. | Euphorbia sp.

AROIDE.t:

Arisrema sp., 17 June.

Orchiuace,«

{Arranged by M. Finef)

Liparis Bootanensis, Griff. Dendrobiuni Pierardi, Roxb., 3, 12, 20

Dendrobium Dalhousia^anuni, Wall., 3 .April.

April. j „ capillipes, Reich., 5 April.

„ aggregatum, Roxb., 28 j „ chrysotonum, Liiidl., 18

April. March, 17 .April.

., Parishii, Reichs., April. ,, sp.

,, longicornu, Lindky. Bolbophyllum sp. nov.

,, fimbriatum, Hooker, ig 1 Cirrhopetalum sp. nov., 12 September.

October. Phajus grandifolius. Lour., 2 April.

APPENDIX B

Bletia hyacinthina, A. Brown, iSand 19

June.
Anthrogonium gracile, IValL, 18 October.
Ctelogyne barbata, Griff.

„ nitida, Lindl.

,, ochracea, Lindl., 29 October.

„ praicox, Lindl.

„ fimbriata, Lindl., 3 September.
Calanthe sp., 29 September.

„ sp., II July {/'is).
sp.
Arundina sp.

Cymbidium giganteum, Wall., 6 and 12
April.

„ grandiflorum, Gnff.

„ xiphiifolio affinis, April.

Vanda teres, Lindl., 13 April.

Vanda parviflora, Lindl., 1 2 and 1 7 April.
Goodyera procera, Stook, 30 March.

„ secundiflorffi affinis.
Pogonia sp. nov., 1 2 July.
Cephalanthera falcata, Blame, 20 March.
Epipactis latifolia, Swariz, 1 1 July.
Habenaria sp., 4 July.

4 July-

II July.
23 March.
19 September.
18 June.
2 I June.

sp
sp.
sp,
sp,
sp,
sp
sp.

Satyrium nepalente, Don., 13 Sept.
Arethusantha, Gen. nov.
Orchis sp., 12 July.

Pardanthus Chinensis, Ker., 5 March.
Iris Sibirica, L., forma, hcematophylla,
19 June.

Iridace.*

Iris Sibirica sp.

SCIT.\MINE^

Roscoea purpurea, Sm., 23 May.
* ,, lineariloba, Franek., 24 April.
*Cantleya yunnanensis, Franch., 19 June.

Alpinia sp., 15 February.
„ sp., 27 April.

Hypoxide.'e
Hypoxis aurea, /.

Il.emodor.a.ce.'e
.\letris laxiflora, Franch. and Bur., 2 May.

Lili.vce.t:

Paris polyphylla, .Stn., 20 May.
Olygobotrya Henryi, Oliv., 11 July.
Ophiopogon japonicus, Gaivl., 17 June,
sp., 20 May.
*Lilium Henrici, Franch., 1 1 July.

,, cordiofoliu, S. Z., 2 1 June.

,, Delavayi, Franch., 19 June.

,, roseum, Wall., 1 1 July.
Nomocharis pardanthina, Franch.. 19

June.

Allium odorum, L., 12 September.

,, sp., 14 September.
Hemerocallis fulva, Z., ^•ar. an_i;!(Sfifolia,

Baker, 3 May.
Tofieldia Himalaica, Baker, 12 June.
Disporum pullum, Salisb., 24 April.
Veratrum album, L., van, 11 July.
Streptopus elegans, Franch., 1 1 July.
Juncus sp., I r July.

COM,MELYN.^CE.t

Streptolirion volubile, Edgu'., 12 September.

CvPERACE.t

Carex atrata, Z., 1 5 September.

LYCoPoniACE.t;
Lycopodium cla\atuni, Z., 27 January. Lycopodium complanatum, Z., 27 Feb.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA
n

VOCAHUI. ARIES

COI.LECTF.I) ON THF. RoU 1 K

(E.\piaiiatl()ii of Ihc Xiiinhers (>t the ]'ocahu!aries)

1. Poula Vocabulary, taken on the 2nd of March at Loutche-Hsien ; remarkable

for the initial ch like the (lerman nasal ch : sometimes the finals are scarcely
sounded.

2. Hmi-Ni Vocalnilary, taken on the 3rd of March at Hakopo ; like the Poulas,

they add louma to the words, ])erhaps signifying // is called, or [jerhaps only
as a suffix.

3. Lola Vocabulary, taken the 6th of March at Cheu-pe-te.

4. Yayo Vocabulary (Lintindjou), taken the 7th of March.

5. Lola Vocabulary, taken the loth of March at Machatsa.

6. Pat Vocabulary, taken the loth of March at Pingantchai.

7. Lolo Vocabulary, taken the 1 7th of March at Ketcheu.

8. Hou-iXi Vocabulary, taken the i8th of March at La Mi. The Hou-Nis (who

call themselves Hans) have certain sounds which they pronounce like eur in
French swur.
Q. Hou-Ni J'ocabulary, taken the 23rd of March at Pitchu.

10. Hatou I'ocabulary, taken the 25th of March at Panhoutse.

11. Vayu Vocabulary (Lintindjou), taken the ist of April at Takouelin. Suffixes

nom or loiii after the numbers noticeable.

12. Lolo Vocabulary, of Nalipa, taken the 9th of April at Ssumao.

13. Chut Pat Vocabulary, of Kouen-fang (same as the Hin Pais\ taken the 15th

of April.

14. Lokcii Vocabulary, 20th April. (The Lokais call themselves Lachous.)

15. Lolo Vocabulary, 20th April, at Chian-na-ling. (The Lolos call themselves

Toutans.)

16. Pou Ma Vocabulary, at Pouto, 29th April. (Seems to approach the Pai.)

17. Lokat Vocabulary, at Koueng-fang, ist May. (Very clearly pronounced.)

18. Aliitchia Vocabulary, 20th June, at Kian-pin.

19. Lissou Vocabulary, 3rd July, at Lou-kou.

20. Tono Vocabulary, 15th July, at Tono. (Resembles Lissou.)

21. Petscit or Han Lama Vocabulary, 23rd July. (Very like Minchia.)

22. Pe Lissou Vocabulary, 8th August.

23. Mosso Vocabulary, at Ngaiwa, i^th August. (The Mossos call themselves

Nachis.)

24. Louise Vocabulary, taken at Tsekou in August. (The Loutses call themselves

Melams ; the Thibetans style them Ngias, or imbeciles.)

A Complement to the Loutse Dialect will be found at the end of the
Vocabularies.

25. Thibetan Vocabulary, at Tsekou, end of August.

26. Loutse Vocabulaiy, taken from some Loutses at Tamalou, loth October.

27. Kioutse Vocabulary, at Tukiu Mu.

28. Alishmi Vocalntlarv, at Bouniang in December.

29. Kioutse Vocabulaiy, taken from the Sing-leng folk, 13th December. Called by

the Pais and the English Khanungs, by themselves Metouans.

30. Singpho ]'ocabulary, at Daphagang in December.

432

APPENDIX B

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FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

Complement to No. 24 — Loutse Vocabulary — furnished by
Father Dubernard at Tsekou

Civil chief : Pone.

„ : Aiikatig.

He is a great chief : .4nka>ii^ katen re.

{chief) (great) {he is).
Blind : ne me yang.
{eye) {not) {sees).
Deaf : atta me tong.

{car) {not) {hears).
Vou must comb yourself : Oiine se gone,

{hair) {to com/') (must).
There are four chickens : Kakie hligou a/.

(chickens) (four) (there are).
How many children have you ? Na antienne dangyo al.

{ To you) (children) (how many) (there are).
I have five : Fnga you al.
How many daughters have you ? Poumatienza dangyo al.

(Daughters) (how many) (there are).
Poumatienza agni yo, lankiera assom yo.

(Girls) (two) (I have), (boys) (three) (I have).
How old is the eldest ? Temeyo dongnin kia.
( The I'iggest) (what age) (has).
He is 20 : Agni t set gnin kia.
(20) (years) (has).
How old is the youngest ? Kienemiyo dongnin kia.

( Tlic smallest) (what age) (has).
He is at the breast : Kiou nga.

(breast) (drinks).
I want to drink some water : iVgang nga gal.

(neater) (to drink) (ivish).
I wish to eat some mutton ; Aran cha he gal.

(sheep) (meat) (to eat) (ivish).
I am cold to-day : Tagnila zing,
(to-day) (cold).
It will rain : Xam za hoa

(sky) (rain) (wi/lfall).
We must dress : lo goua gal.

(coat) (to clothe) (must).
Do you know how to draw the cross-bow ? Tana ab ne soa.

(cross-bo'iv) (to draw) (do you know).
Is there much water in (the) Ba}ul ? Tourong meli ngang kateng la.

(Bayul) (country) (water) (big) (has it).
Maize : tambo.
Corn : azong.
Ripe buckwheat : amble.
Unripe ,, : foa.

Barley : soa.
Antelope : adzou.
Musk deer : kiela.

446

[Mosso Manuscripts.

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

T I T L ]-:

FIRST PAGE

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(Reduced to f size.)

448

APPENDIX B
TITLE

On the cover I date of the book, day, month, | religious ornaments.

FIRST PAGE

Name of the book | doni ma do tu : to see one is not able (in the beginning
was chaos) | ma to : one is powerless | dapatu : after to see (light was created).

Topa : the wizard | regain : to say | ri'gue : all plants | sassatu : were formed
I djouso soukoiu : three men come-forth from the ground [ djouni soukotu : three
women come-forth from the ground.

Djoulong gouloiitu^ousin gouloutu^oupoii gouloutu : first a stone — then a
tree — a road | Moudju lignanti : men and animals are in being \jadjo kagiie ti :
the horse stays in the house, a foal is born.

Key to Mosso Manuscript Xo.
(With Oral Text.)

2 F

449

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

SECOND PAGE

THIRD PAGE

^<\ls-

Mosso MANUSCRirr No.
KeJuced to | size.)

450

APPENDIX B
sp:cond page

Zodjo mignienti : the man and the woman are joined | Kodjo djeugnienti :
a numerous family comes | sudjou pougnienti : the whole family | Kudjou
lig/iienti : to a dog which goes into the mountain with its female | pondjoun
deniati : the village next is made.

Tch'eton a n'etoe : heaven gives food to the fowls | mounu djou kuku : heaven
gives food to the animals | d/ne djoujou U djouja papali : heaven gives food to
the horses | djoulou goulandjo : heaven has made nine stones | djoiise goundja
djo : heaven has made nine woods.

Djoumba goukudjo : heaven has made nine roads | izouzaligueso — mhakapii
goiiloundu — takasoulane — bakasoujatno : the man is — the priest is — he strikes the
cymbals — and makes music | djoukalapati : heaven has made the hands of the
man white | Djouji konapatu : heaven has made the feet of the horses white.

THIRD PAGE

Djoiiloungouloutu guenelekutu : nine stones fall from heaven | djousu kottn-
tadjou : nine trees, from heaven | djoupa goukundjou : heaven has made thread
(clothing) I djouloujoiiloitng djou : heaven has sent an evil stone (men were
disobedient to their chief) | ni perigni hendjala : of two villages, one man kills
the other.

Ndaka leutnedja : two villages desire war | f/'o/ia aouaja : heaven sends the
wind and the scourges (rain, hail) [ Kutchuchutchendja : a man must not covet
another's pasture | chiuutudzetudja : a man must not covet another's harv'est.

Tzejoiilaradii fengiiidzejoutu tsignidendjiichamari : one cannot count in ten
days the number of murderers and robbers | vioutsiilalimaiigue : funeral rites are
always to be observed (many are the dead) I Koutiiluchamapoii : the blood of
animals (sacrificed for the dead) ever flows | Zelemoudjutii zamaheii : the blood
is like the grass | dzoiizar mafiime ndzeumo madjii : if it were not for robbery and
murder the chiefs would have no subsistence.

Key to Mosso Manuscript No.
(With Oral Text.)

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

TITLE

^4^

FIRST PAGE

31

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(Reduced to i, size.)

452

APPENDIX B

1- I T L E

Cover. Title.

Year of the hare ; second moon : the third. | Amazon. — Signature of the
wizards.

FIRST PAGE

Of old neither sky nor earth (chaos). | In the beginning the sky and the
earth were made ; the sun, the moon, three stars, trees, water, three stones. —
All nature was composed of thirteen things.

(Then were made) things hurtful to man — the dragon of earth, the genius
of the rocks, the attack of mysterious force | (Was made) the wizard who (to
guard mankind from bane) teaches eighty writings | A spirit without blemish
wards off that which can harm.

That he may not destroy — gold, silver, the turquoise are offered to this
spirit I Three gifts having been made to heaven, mankind, herds, and crops will
flourish I (Sign that there shall be no more ills.) The earth regards the sign
(placed above), all will prosper. | If this sign is disregarded there will come
1 1 3 terrible calamities.

Man will be caught by these calamities, like the fish by the hook | Ye will be
treated like the grass, the tree, the stone, which are cast into the fire. | If ye turn
again, on the earth will be seven mountains which shall provide all that ye
desire 1 These seven hills.

Key to Mosso MANuscRirr Xo. 2.
(The literal translation of these pages is given for the first time.)

453

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

SECOND PAGE

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(Reduced to | size.)

454

APPENDIX B
SECOND PAGE

Will grant a happy cycle of sixty years | The trees have (then) fine leaf ; — the
branches, fruit ; — the birds, abundant food. — The earth produces crops. | In
gratitude for all these benefits — man offers gold, silver, turquoise, coral, ivory,
seven kinds of gifts.

These presents made, it needs to continue in well-doing to have the same
plenty | These presents made, the trees, the crops, the fruits of the earth will still
thrive | prosperity will endure yet other ninety years stable (as a rock).

(Invocation) May man, like a god in the temple, suffer neither sickness, nor
cold, nor heat. | Chapter II. | Half mankind has obeyed — half has become stiff-
necked, seven arrows have overtaken man. The king of the Tompas (wizards)
in wrath having taken back all manner of writings.

Withdraws into the temple — meditates on his writings. — Having read them,
he comes forth in fury with a sword, to take vengeance on the disobedient | the
belly is starved — the crops are sterile. — Man, chastised, becomes sorrowful ; he has
white thoughts (repents). | The punishment ceases. — Man is happy. — Gold returns.

THIRD PAGE

The turquoise returns | The moon is unclouded — The stars rise — Man is
joyful. I In his joy he plants a Ihader (prayer banner) — He offers all kinds of
turquoises. | (Invocation) In the world may the sick man be healed in five days.

If in five days he is not healed | The Tompa in anger | having taken again
all manner of books | The Tompa, like a ravening (that eats flesh) tiger — comes
to destroy the devil which departs not.

May the sick be healed | May the horse feed well — May the crops yield grain,
may the sick not suffer from heat, nor from cold — and may he be in good
health | If henceforth righteous aims are pursued.

A good horse, garments of silk, treasures | all these gifts are carried to the
temple by the sick, in token of gratitude. | Chapter III. | The planet not being
obeyed.

Key to Mosso Manuscript No. 2.
(The literal translation of these pages is given for the first time.'

455

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

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456

APPENDIX B

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457

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

III

MATERIAL FOR THE EXPEDITION

The valises we used were those known as Pavie valises, capable of being borne on
a man's shoulders. For travel in Viinnan alone somewhat larger ones could be taken,
but they would have to be very strong on account of the frequent falls among the
mules. One mule might load 154 lbs. (adp.) ; but for a long march 132 lbs. is
enough. The maximum weight of each valise when full ought not to exceed 66 lbs.
In the list of items clothing is left out, and money, which has all to be carried with
one, and is very heavy, is likewise not mentioned. It must be remembered that the
supplies here catalogued were calculated for a year's requirements.

Ca.mp

I large double-covered patrol tent for three
persons, about 21 sq. ft.

1 small do. for two (same shape).
Tent pegs for same, and reserve. ■
3 camp beds.i

3 sheepskin beds.

Cord and packthread, 2 lots.

3 canvas buckets.

2 basins.

I pickaxe.

Nails and screws.

1 saw.

2 hatchets.

2 kettles.

Letters to mark the cases.

3 lbs. of wire.

2 dessert knives.

40 packets tobacco.
22 boxes crushed sugar.
44 packets candles.-

9 lbs. ground coffee.
18 small boxes onion soup.

6 tablets chocolate.

4 boxes condensed milk.

4 pots Liebig.

4 „ cheese.

Provisions

2 boxes tinned soup.

2 „ cutlets.

-4 ,, potted meat.

5 ,, sardines.

6 ,, filleted herrings.
4 „ mackerel.
I bottle rum.
I „ brandy.

Arms and Ammunition

3 guns, calibre 12.

2 Winchesters.

I Express Bland 303.

1 Express 577.

2 guns, cahbre 38 (for small birds).''
2 revolvers (Lebel).

1 revolver (Smith and Weston).

2 fishing tins, with hooks and lines.
Bottles of anti-rust and vaseline.
Cartridge cases, containing —

194 shot.

Made cartridges,
calibre 1 2.

45°

0

174

2

200

5

200

6

230

8

380

12

400 wads and caps.
4000 rounds for calibre 38.
400 „ for Winchester.
430 „ for Express 303.
„ for Express 577.
„ for Lebel revolver.
„ for Smith and

revolver,
sacks o ; 2 sacks 2 ; 3 sacks i 2.
Powder, 1 1 lbs.

70 Favie cartridges (for exploding in
rivers, etc.).

100

375
300

Shot-

W'eston

' My companions soon followed my example, and slept on a mat and waterproof sheet on the
ground.

- We were able to economise these for several months by using small Chinese oil-lamps,
' Most useful for ornithological collections.

APPENDIX B

Natural History

8 jars, different sizes, hermetical.
Alum, acetate of soda, arsenical soap.
Sawdust.
Herbal paper.

Labels, 3 dissecting cases, scissors, wad-
ding, strj'chnine.'
Snares.

Photographv

I Haneau Richard apparatus with roll or
box plates, 9x12 centim. (correspond-
ing to English J plate).
I do. Ledocte, 9 x 12.
I camera, 4I x 6.
60 dozen plates, 9x12 celluloid.
28 „ 9x12 glass.

About 80 dozen plates for small camera.

About 15 rolls 9x12.

Clothes, black paper, spare frames, black

bags.
2 bags for changing plates.
I red lamp.

Instruments, Writing Materials, etc.

M. Roux's instruments (theodolite, sex-
tant and artificial horizon, astronomical
telescope, hj-psometers).

I ecUmeter, 2 telescopes.

I metre, i decametre.

3 thermometers.

5 aneroid barometers.

20 notebooks, 4 dozen pencils, calculating

sheets, etc.
White paper, ink in powder.
2 portfolios, I compass box.
2 smoked glasses.
Flints, wicks, pipes.
Chinese visiting cards.

Drugs -

2 small medicine chests.
I do. reserve (4 boxes kola, 2 boxes salol,
4 boxes antipyrine, 4 pots quinine, 2

bottles phenicated water, 2 pots boric
acid, tapsias, sublimate).
I spray.

Books
I case of books and maps concerning region of expedition.

Presents •

Large chromolithographs, small images.
1 pendulum clock.
3 revolvers.
Pipes.

Flints.

18 boxes with glasses.
20 circular boxes (metal).
A score of pocket glasses.

30 scent bottles.
5 dozen spyglasses.

5 dozen cigarette holders.

6 looking-glasses with three sides.
384 small cases of needles.

60 scissors.
2 leather purses.
4 small panoramas.

' The experience of three expeditions has shown me that reliance cannot be placed on rolled films.
After having used apparatus iS X 24 centim., 13 X 18, gx 12, I ended by only employing one of
6^ X 9, the results from which can in most cases be enlarged,

- I strongly recommend the use of kola as an excellent sustainer and restorative. After tr)ing it
our porters had great faith in it. Boric acid is also most valuable ; wounds and sore eyes being fre-
quent, it was useful among the natives.

^ Among the presents the most popular were those which had anything to do with tobacco ; one
could hardly take too many pipes and flints. Next to them came knives, scissors, spyglasses, needles,
looking-glasses, and musical boxes. The scents, panoramas, microscopes, jeweller)' and trinkets, and
things in general which had not a direct practical use, were less successful. In the Mekong valley and
Ba)ul a good reception was given to linen and Chinese yam, especially when in dark blue.

459

FROM TONKIN TO INDIA

'PRESEtfTS^a>/////l/n'd

1 2 kitchen knives.
24 small microscopes.

1 silk handkerchief.
36 penknives.

24 knives.

2 |Dipes in shape of a revolver.
52 bone boxes.

4 cotton kerchiefs.
Pins.

2 field glasses.

1 hunting knife.
I 2 celluloid glasses.

9 magic mirrors.

1 cup and saucer (silver).

I „ „ (nickel).

I watch in case.
I inkstand.

5 scarf pins.

20 boxes bonbons.
15 musical boxes.
Trinkets in duplicate.

I silver mug.
23 toilet requisites.

3 writing requisites.
1 aristonette.

4 watches.

18 wooden boxes.
1 2 harmonicas.
I large musical box.

6 gilt brooches.

460

GENERAL INDEX

GENERAL INDEX

Abbadie d' M., 7.

Abors, 352 ; English expedition against,
tb.

Altyn Dagh Mts., 137.

Amherst, Lady, pheasants, loi, 119.

Angkor, 3.

Anio, chief of porters, 280, 328 ; unselfish-
ness of, 333, 338 ; endurance of, 341.

Annam, suitability for tea planting, 355.

Annamites, our retinue, 5, 40, 73, 77, 145,
247.

Apon, plain of, 282 ; explained, 293.

Assam, 303 ; Thibetan name for, 304 ; an-
nexed by England, 320 ; routes from
Khamti into, 323 ; pacification of Upper,
352 ; plain of, 355.

Atentse, 136 ; destruction of Mission at, 201,
223 ; Roux's expedition to, 225, 242 ; trade
at, ib.: observations at, 367, 374, 378;
routes from, 412, 413.

B

Barrows, curious, 1 1 6.

Batifaut, Father, murder of, 130.

Battambang, 3 ; observations at, 365.

Bayul, or Pourba, 245.

Bees, Lissou pursuit of, 227.

Bhamo, 126, 129, 320.

Birds, 422^

Bishi, in Assam, 323 ; stay at, 346, 347.

Black River, or Lysiang-kiang, neighbour-
hood of, 64 ; other names for, 70 ; crossed,
73 ; observations on, 369.

Blackstone, Captain, 275.

Blue R., 131, 220.

Bonnin, M., traveller, 2.

Bouniang, outskirts of Assam, reached, 343.

Bourne, English traveller cited, 61, 85.

Brahmaputra R., 245, 291, 304 ; reached,
350 ; descended, 355.

Buddha, monthly feast to, 58 ; effigies of,
89, 208, 311, 318, 327.

Buddhism, debased, 89 ; points of resem-
blance with Roman Catholicism, 208, 209.

Burmah to Tali, road from, 126; do., 129;
English goods from, 135 ; annexation of
Upper, 320 ; from Khamti, routes into,
416, 417 ; from Pou-eul-Fou, 408.

Cambodia, 3, 121, 365.

Canton R., 135.

Carl, Mr., of Chinese Maritime (Customs, 31.

Chantzeu, and his horse, 81, 145 ; deserts,
170.

Cheun-Long-Ho R., 407.

Chiantines, loi.

Chinese, officialdom, 10, 12, 21,23,97,135,
202, 223, 273 ; customs, 39, 173 ; hos-
pitality, 31, 45, 87 ; kites and pigeons, 55 ;
character, 23, 76, 107, iii, 114, 130, 223 ;
future of, 95, 202 ; superstitions, 107, 142 ;
tribunals, 214; provincial administration,

183, 213.
Christian, persecution, 130^, 201, 223 ; at

Tsekou, 226 ; death of an old, 338.
Chuen-Lo, routes from, 408.
Chunning-Fou, 120 ; observations at, 363,

372.
Clive, 357.

462

GENERAL INDEX

Coal, 7.

Cochin-China, 3, 94, 121.
Coklen, 8.

Colquhoun, English traveller cited, 85.
Cone chain, the, 19, 36.
Cooper, English traveller, 203, 218, 219, 251.
Cormorant, fishing, 141.
Customs, Chinese Maritime, 31 ; on tea,
Mekong R., 96.

D

Dance, Pai, 91 ; Lolo, loi ; Lamasjen, 179 ;
Lissou, 197, 198.

Uapha R., 323, 337 ; Nam Dapha R., 343,
344 ; observations on, 376.

Uaphagang, point of arrival, 344 ; observa-
tions at, 376, 378.

Dayakeu, 97.

Debay, Lieut., traveller, 2.

Dedekens, Father, 4.

Degue, district, 213.

Desgodins, Abbe, 4, 212, 222.

Deveria, M., 60.

" Diamai," 259 ; death of, 292.

Dibrugarh, railway at, 325, 353.

Dihing R., 323 ; Nam Dihing R., 342, 345 ;
valley of, 346 ; confluence with Brahma-
putra, 350 ; observ'ations on, 376.

Dionysius' Ear, 168.

Dogs, of Thibet, 136, 259, 292.

Dokerla Mts., 242.

Dubernard, Father, 218, 221, 222, 250, 251.

Dublu R., 289 ; observations on, 375.

Dupleix, shade of, 357.

Dupont, M., 8.

Du-tchu-mu R., 285.

Dutreuil de Rhins, 219.

Dzayul, 245 ; Mts. of, 291, 312, 327 ; last
look at, 341 ; River, 352.

Fey-long- Kiao, 152; observations at, 366,
2,72, ; routes from, 409, 410.

Fishing, cormorant, 141 ; native method of,
154; Kioutse artifice, 292; mahseer,
346.

Fong-chen-lin, 45 ; observations at, 361, 368.

Fong-Chouan, pagoda at, 192^

Fong-Yu, 147.

Fou, legend of the god, 234.

Francois, our interpreter, 6, 40, 42, 45, 78 ;
dismissed, 117.

French, position at Laokay, 8, 9 ; consulate
at Mongtse, i()ff.; Frontier Delimitation
Commission, 21; trade, 32; cause in
Indo-China, 74 ; explorers in Yunnan, 85 ;
colonial acquisitions, 94 ; diplomacy v.
industry, 95; river, the, 121, 219; mis-
sionary aims on the Mekong, 224 ; colonial
administration contrasted with English,
351, 355' 356; in India, 357.

Gamier, Francis, 2, 52, 94, 129, 219, 366;
observations taken by, 367, 377, 378.

Garnier, Francis, Peak, 257, 271 ; observa-
tions at, 374.

"Gate of the Tiger,'' the, 167.

George, Deputy Commissioner, letter of, 319.

Gill, English traveller, 212, 219; observa-
tions taken by, 367, 377, 378.

Gold, 64, 242 ; washing, 201 ; in the Kiou-
Kiang valley, 281.

Gourka, itinerant, 324.

Goutelle, Father, death of, 201.

Grandmaison, de, M., i ; death of, 3.

Graphite, 7.

Gray, English traveller, 319, 320, 323, 415 ;
guide of, 346.

Grotto, near Ssumao, 90.

Elephants, 120, 294, 318, 349.

English, enterprise, 32, 95 ; travellers at
Ssumao, 84, 104, no; claims on the Me-
kong, 94; missionary at Tali-Fou, 126;
goods at Tali-Fou, 135 ; document at
Tsaukan, 308 ; do., at Padao, 319 ; methods
of colonisation, 320; administration, 351 ;
reflections on, 356.

Erhai, L., or Tali, 125, 126, 139, 146.

H

Hablus, gorge of, 251.

Hanoi, point of departure, 4 ; French posi-
tion at, 36.
Harmand, French explorer, 94.
Hatous, 70 ; vocabulary, 435^
Hong- Hay, 6, 7.
Hopatie, fete, 205.

46.?

GENERAL INDEX

Houi-houi, or Houe-dzeu, Chinese Maho-
metans, 31, 56 ; spirited conduct of a, 88.

Hou-Nis, 16, 43, 44 ; adventure with, 56^;
particulars concerning, doff.; vocabularies,

Hsiao Ouisi, 201.

Hue, threatened l)y Siam, 94.

Hydraulic pestles, 46.

I

In-Chouan, 186 ; observations at, 374.

India, reflections on British, 356.

Irawadi R., 213, 246; feeders of, 289; VV.
branch of, 310; chain between Brahma-
putra and, 334 ; climate in Upper Basin
of, 405 ; further investigations as to
branches of, 410 (No. 2 route from
Loukou), 414, 415 (routes from Mandoum).
See also Kiou-Kiang.

Isa, approach to, 52 ; trade at, ib.; observa-
tions at, 362, 369.

J

Joseph, the Latinist, 145 ; as interpreter,

192, 202, 247 ; on Assam, 356.
Journey, objects of, 2, 3 ; material for,

458#

Kachins, 137, 323, 410.

Kawas, or lekawas, probably Shans, loi,
408.

Kher, Thibetan poem, 210.

Khagan, 348.

Khamangs, or Mishmis, 343.

Khamti, 305 ; warning to, 311 ; visit to the
chief of, 316; English negotiations with,
319; rapacity of natives at, 321; in-
habitants of, 322 ; minister of, 323 ; routes
to India from, 323, 415; do., to Burmah
from, 416, 417; farewell to, 327; observa-
tions at, 378.

Khanungs, or Kioutses, 261, 321.

Khou-an-yn, the goddess, 123, 150, 204.

Kiang-hung, see Xien-ho(u)ng.

Kiang-Pin, 409.

Kiou-Kiang, R. (called also Neydu, Telo,
Toulong, q.v.), first report of, 194, 265 ;

sighted, 271; followed, 274^; scenery by,
276, 289; meaning of, 283; observations
oi) 375; branch of Irawadi, 411, 414.

Kioutses, akin to Loutses, 261 ; other names
iox,ib.\ particulars concerning, 263 ; facial
types, 283 ; of Uuma, 293, 297 ; observ-
ances of, 301 ; harvest fete, 304; vocabu-
laries, 443#

Kola, for fever, 329, 335, 459.

Krishna, the pundit, 245.

Lachous, see Lochais.

Lagrde, 2, 94.

Lake Er'hai, 125, 126, 139, 146.

Lakhoum, 319, 320.

Lamas, at Kampou, zobff.; miracles of, 233 ;

sects, 234 ; of Tsarong, 245.
Lamaserai, of Kampou, 2o6_^; of Honpou,

214, 223; of Tchamoutong, 233, 246, 252,

264 ; of Menkong, 245.
Lamasjens, 178; dance, 180; worship, 181 ;

customs, 183 ; vocabulary, see Petsen.
Landjre, outpost of Thibet, 255 ; attitude of

people, ib.; route from, 413.
La-niou-Ho, R., 64, 406.
Lansous, 160, 410.
Lantcheu, routes from, 406.
Lao, last Chinese village, 153.
Laokay, 8.

Laos States, Laotians, 3, 48, 92, 31 1, 317, 322.
La Rochefoucauld, 76.
Latinist, a, 145.
Lauriuni, inines of, 306.
Lead, 306.

Leguilcher, Father, \i%ff.
Lepidoptera, 426.
Lhaqa, 201, 207, 233, 244 ; route from

Atentse, 412.
Lili, R., 256.

Lintindjous, 16 ; same as Vaos, 47, q.v.
Lissous, first met, 148; origin, 160 ; dialect,

ib.\ marriage custom, 164, 174 ; worship,

177 ; details concerning, 182 ; dance, 197,

ig8 ; sorcery, 200; at Tsekou, 225 ; as

hunters, 227 ; warlike reputation, 294 ;

vocabularies, \y^ff.
Loading, method of, in Yunnan, 17 ; in

Thibet, 249.
Lochais, 99, 105 ; writing, 108 ; vocabularies,

43 5#
Lohit, R., 245, 352,415-

464

GENERAL INDEX

Lokai, see Lochai.
,Lola, vocabulary, 433^

Lolos, 49 ; fear of the camera, il/.; MSS.,
58, 63, 67, 87 ; particulars concerning,
6o_^; vocabularies, 433^; MS., 457.

Loukou, routes from, 410.

Loutses, branch of Lissous, i8g ; as hunters,
227 ; proper, 260 ; legendary origin, 261 ;
other names, ib.\ language, zb.\ parti-
culars concerning, 262, 263 ; vocabularies,
A39f; 446.

Loutze-Kimg, R., or Salwen, dread of, 150.

Lysiang-Kiang, see Black River.

M

Ma, General, 28, 31.

Madagascar, i ; rice culture in, 42.

Malay Peninsula, 303.

Malleson, Colonel, op. cit., 357.

Mandalay, English railway from, 32, 95.

Mandoum, routes from, 414, 415.

Manhao, i \ff., 39 ; observations at, 361, 365,
368, 377-

Manhao, the mafou, 75 ; stabs the makotou,
112; reappears, i 53.

Manhat, French e.\plorer, 94.

Margarj", murder of, 129.

Mark, M., attack on, 19.

Massie, French explorer, 94.

Material for e.xpedition, 458^^

Mekong, R., approach to, 79, 89 ; reflections
on, 94, 121 ; other names for, 97 ; crossed
at Notcha, 95 ; second passage of, 120;
rejoined and crossed at Fey-long-kiao,
151 ; first cord bridge over, 171 ; at Fong-
Chouan, 192 ; right bank abandoned, 204 ;
crossed at Tsedjrong, 217 ; the French
river, 219 ; last bivouac on, 251 ; observa-
tions on, 362, 365, 366, 370^; routes
between the Salwen, R. and, 410, 411.

Meng-hua-ting, valley and plain of, 125;
observations at, 373.

Miaotses, 21, 50, 51 ; writing, 60.

Mienning, no; observations at, 363, 372;
routes from, 409.

Minchias, 129, 137, 159; vocabulary, 439#

Mines, coal, 7 ; copper, 55 ; silver and
copper near Ouei-ten, 194 ; near Tachin,
408, 411.

Miris, 352.
Mishniis, 343 ;
443//-

2 G

at Sadiya, 353 ; vocabulary,

Missionaries, at Mongtse, 20; at Tali-Fou,
lyiff.; at Ouisi, 201 ; at Tsekou, 220^;
author's debt to French, 24S.

Moam, plain of, 294, 29S ; inhabitants of,
303 ; identified, 305.

Mogaung, or Mogaum, 320.

Money, iS, 23, 141, 248, 294.

Mong-ie-tsin-Ho R., 406.

Mong-ka, Roux's divergence to, 103, 109 ;
observations at, 363, 365, 371 ; routes from,
408.

Mong-pan, Roux's divergence to, 103, 109 ;
observations at, 371 ; routes from, 407.

Mongtse, arrival at, 19 ; details concerning,
24 ; market, ib. ; trade, 31, 32 ; climate,
iJi ; p'ague, ib. ; departure from, 35 ; ob-
servations at, 361, 395, 368.

Mossos, first met, 200; particulars of, 210,
211; writing, 212; government, 213;
relations with the missionaries, 215 ; visit
to their chief, ib. ; sorcery, 216; vocabu-
lary, 439# ; MSS., 448#

Mouke, native tally, 169.

Muong-le, reached, 73 ; trade at, 75 ; ob-
servations at, 362, 365, 370 ; routes from,
406.

Musical instruments, 49, 91, 191, 196.

Mussulman, tolerance, 31 ; population at
Tali, 137 ; war, traces of the, 48, 119, 126 ;
end oi do., 129.

My-le-kiang, R. (Mali-kha), west branch of
Irawadi, 410.

N

Nam, 5, 68, 73, 100, 107, 251, 267, 286, 349.

Nam Dapha, R., 343 ; observations on, 376.

Nam Dihing, R., 342, 345 ; valley of, 346 ;
confluence with Brahmaputra, 350 ; ob-
servations on, 376.

Nam-kiou, R., crossed, 310 ; other name for,
ib. ; branch of Irawadi, ib. ; observations
on, 376 ; route on, 415.

Nam Lang, R., 330.

Nam Phungan, R., 337 ; observations on,
376.

Nam Tsam, R., 297.

Nanking, 129, 160.

Nan-Ting-Ho, R., affluent of Salwen, 409.

Natural history, 418^^

Needham, Mr., English Political Agent at
Sadiya, 350, 351 ; hospitality of, 353.

Neris, French explorer, 94.

465

GENERAL INDEX

Nesous, akin to I.olos, 6i, 2ro.

Nestorians, 208.

Neydu, or Telo, R., 2S2 ; feeder of Irawadi,

289. See Kiou-kiang.
Nilung-Ho, R., affluent of Black R., 406.
Ninglou, Singpho, chief at, 350, 352.
N'Mai-Kha, R., east branch of Irawadi, 410.

O

Odenthal, traveller, 2.

Opium, monopoly at Laokay, 8 ; effects of,

12, 87, III ; smoking, 100, 329; as a

drink, 322.
Ouei-yuen, route Mong-ka to Pou-eul-Fou,

wrongly placed in maps, 408.

Padao, or Putau, capital of Khamti 315, 316 ;

observations at, 378-
Pais, 48 ; particulars concerning, 59, 60, gi ;

vocabulary, 433^ ; do., Chui, 4ZS ff-
Panlian, village in Khamti, 325.
Paper making, 226.
Papien, R., 70.
Pavie, M., Mission, 2, 21 ; news of, at Muong-

le, 74, 219.
Pemachou, Mt., 261, 271.
Pdse, trade through, 135.
Petroleum, 7.

Petsen, or Lamasjen, vocabulary', 439^
Piao-tsen, cord bridge over Mekong, 171 ;

observations at, 373.
Pikiang, R., 150.
Pirates, 9, 12, 21,47, '21.
Plants, 426^

Pochan, 109 ; obser\-ations at, 371.
Poisoned, eggs, iSl ; arrows, 192, 408.
Pou-eul-Fou, 52, 136 ; route to Burmah from,

408.
Poulas, 15 ; vocabulary, 433^
Poumans, query Kachins, 410.
Pou Mas. akin to Pais, 107 ; vocabulary,

435#

R

Railway, Burmah to China, 32 ; do., 95

at IJibruyarh, 325.
" Red Hats," the, 207, 234, 264.

Red River, or Song-Coi, ascent of, 7, 8 ;
followed, 1 7 ; crossed, 40 ; comse resumed,
M ff-\ basin of, 125, 135; observations
on, 361, 362, 365, 368, 369.

Reunnam, R., 294 ; observations on, 375.

Rhinoceros, 75, 333.

Rochill, 219.

Rotin, district, 246.

Sadiya, English frontier station, 348 ; reached,

351-

Salt, as exchange, 32 : workings, 149 ; want
of, 302 ; value in Khamti, 322.

Salwen, R., approach to basin of, 153; in-
salubrity of, 155; other names for, 156,
194 ; on English map, ib. ; crossed, 264 ;
scenery on, 265 ; observations on, 375 ;
route between Mekong R. and, 410, 411.

Sanguias-kiendzang, 245, 252.

Sao, 5, 23, 57,73.93. "7, 121, 163.

Secret societies, 13I.

Se-kiang, R., affluent of Mekong, crossed,
105 ; observations at, 371 ; route from
confluence of, 408.

Seran-Seli, 281, 285, 290, 308, 335.

Setchuen, 55, 135, 159, 265.

Sha-ha-te, routes from, 406.

Shans, loi, 104.

Siam, 94.

Siao-kiang, R., erroneously called the
Yanj;-pi, 121 ; crossed, 122; recrossed, 148.

Singleng, last Khamti village, 328.

Singphos, same as Kachins, 323 ; first met,
344 ; relations with English, 352 ; vocabu-
lary, 443#

Slaves, 195, 352, 354.

Song-Bo, R., 73.

Song-Coi, R., or Red R., ascent of, 8 ;
crossed, 40 ; course followed, 47^^ ;
scenery on. 51.

Songs, Pai, 91 ; Lamasjen, 179 ; Lissou, 198 ;
Thibetan, 238^

Sorcery, Lissou, 200 ; Mosso, 216 ; Kioutse,
263.

Soulie, Father, 217.

Ssumao, from Mongtse main road to, 36 ;
approach to, 82 ; stay at, 84,^ ; observa-
tions at, 362, 365, 366, 370, 377 ; routes
from, 407.

Sugar-cane, press, 325.

Suicide, 181, 201, 225.

466

GENERAL INDEX

Tachin-iao, Chinese village, 104 ; English
traveller at, ib.

Ta-Ian, 36.

Talap, 353 ; tea plantation at, 354.

Tali-Fou, 3 ; approach to, 126 ; history of,
\2<^ff.\ trade of, 135; fertility of plain,
138 ; observations at, 363, 365, 366, 373,
378.

Tattooing, among the Pais, 92 ; Kioutses,
263.

Ta-yang-ka, routes from, 406.

Tea, 136 ; culture in Assam, 353, 354.

Teki, 189.

Telo, or Neydu, R., 289. See Kiou-Kiang.

Terrace, Father, murder of, 131.

Terrien de la Couperie, op. cit., 210.

Thais, 303 ; in Khamti, 321.

Theebaw, King, 311.

Theodolite, stolen, 178.

Thibetan, natives first sighted, 200 ; Sup-
pliants, 217 ; Buddhism, 208 ; traditions,
230 ; customs, 235, 236 ; fables, 237 ;
songs, 238^ ; contrast to Chinese, 249 ;
vocabular)', 443^

Thibet Mission, 201, 224.

Tien-eul-tsin, salt workings, 149.

Tigers, dread of, 64, 73 ; traces of, 334, 339,

347, 348-

Tin, 13, 14, 98.

Tintet, Father, 201.

Tonkin, favourable position of, 32 ; acquisi-
tion by Dupuy, 94.

Tonos, an ill-favoured tribe, 173 ; vocabu-
lary, 439^.

Toulong, routes from, 413, 414.

Toulong-remai, R., or Kiou-Kiang {q-i'-),
272,413, 414.

Toussou, of Loukou, 159; office of, 162;
government under Chinese, 184.

Trade, at Laokay, 8 ; at Manhao, 14 ; at
Mongtse, 31, 32 ; at Muong-le, 75 ; at
Tali-Fou, 135 ; at Atentse, 242.

Treaty, of Pekin, 202 ; of Tien-tsin, 223.

Tsang, Mts., marble from, 136; their
dangers, 137.

Tsang-po, R., 245 ; valley, 351, 352.

Tsarong, 241, 242, 245, 255.

Tsedjrong, rope bridge over Mekong, 217 ;
chief of, 223, 250.

Tsekou, 3 ; approach to, 217 ; sojourn at,
i2off. ; mission at, 220 ; Christianity at,
222 ; industries of, 226 ; native customs
at, 229 ; observations at, 374.

Tsen, viceroy, 129, 130.

Tulong. province of, 8, g.

V

Vial, Father, attack on, 20.
Vocabularies, 432_^.
Vultures, snaring, 228.

W

Walker, General, map of Thibet, cit., 378.
Watershed, between Mekong and Sahven

Rs., 167.
Woman's realm, 1 1 .
Woodland deity, worship of, 79.
Woodthorpe, Colonel, visit to Khamti, 323 ;

415; guide of, 346 ; observations of, 367, 378.

Writing, Mosso, 212.

Xien-ho(u)ng, or Kiang-hung, 70, 75 : pro-
spective English rail towards, 95.

V

Yang-pi, R., wrongly named, 121 ; crossed,

122 ; recrossed, 148.
Yaos, or Lintindjous, 47, 50 ; vocabulary,

see Yayo.
Yayo, vocabulary, 433_^
Yetche, 209 ; mokoua of, 2\2ff. ; confines of,

213; visit to chief of, 215 : its ulterior

results, 269, 272.
Yuen-kiang, 36, 55.
Yiinchou, 118; observations at, 363, 372;

routes from, 409.
Yun-Long-cheou, routes from, 409.
Yunnan, natives of, 50, 51, 61 ; travellers in

85 ; mountains of, 91 ; climate of S.W.

389 ; tfo., N.W., 405.
Yiinnan-sen, 23, 35, 75, 91 ; lake of, 125.

467

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