Beats ee fex . te a t pate #5 i 5 Hokie: > oe -. ae ale soak gies p FRUIT CULTURE FOR THE MILLION. PLP PL PI SSL LI LL SSS-OFIS ISS IIS? HAN D-BOOK OF FRUIT CULTURE: BEING A GUIDE TO THE Cultivation and Management of Fruit Trees; WITH CONDENSED DESCRIPTIONS OF MANY OF THE BEST AND MOST POPULAR VARIETIES IN THE UNITED STATES. ILLUSTRATED WITH NINETY ENGRAVINGS. WITH AN APPENDIX, CONTAINING A VARIETY OF USEFUL MEMORANDA ON THE SUBJECT, VALUABLE HOUSEHOLD RECIPES, ETC. BY THOMAS GREGG. we NEW YORK: HOewLER AND WELLS; PUBLISHERS, No. 308 BROADWAY. /8¢ ENTERED, ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS IN THE YEAR 1857, BY FOWLER AND WELLS, IN THE CLERE'S OFFICE OF THE DISTRICT COURT OF THE UNITED STATES FOR THE SOUTHERN DISTRICT OF NEW YORE. Doavirs aNd Robins, Steveotypers, 1:3 Nassau St.eet, New York. REP? $94. p/ Pb EPA CE. -Tuere are a number of valuable Fruit Books already before the public; and the question may be urged— Why present another? The answer is simply—That those works do not meet the wants of a very large class of people; or, rather, that by presenting so large an amount of purely scientific matter, they are rendered too voluminous and too costly to be brought within the reach of those who most need them. A. cheap work, in which the necessary practical de- tails are condensed within a small compass, and divested as far as possible of all technicality, seems to be desir- able. To supply such a work was the object of the writer in undertaking the present publication. How far he has succeeded remains with the public to decide. He lays no claim to originality. So far from it, he has drawn largely from the writings of others; and iv PREFACE. has throughout—by careful reading and comparing and condensing—made use of the thoughts and experiences of many hundreds of practical fruit-growers. Nurserymen and scientific pomologists will find in it little to interest them ; and yet they will discover many imperfections. Let them remember, however, that it is designed for a far different class from that to which they belong. And if it shall reach that class, and induce them to plant more trees, and teach them how to cultivate them but ever so imperfectly, his object will have been ac- complished. Geen ON eS. PiAw Et. Hrutt Culture in General. CHAPTER J.—INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. PAGE 1. The free use of Fruit as a common article of Food will greatly contribute to the Health of the People. 2. Fruit is a cheap article of Food. 3. The culture of good Fruit is profitable. 4. Fruit furnishes an amount of good living not otherwise attainable. 5. There is economy in the use of Fruit .............. 9 CHAPTER II.—PRELIMINARIES TO PLANTING. Cost—Estimate for three Acres —Distances—Location—Soil—Preparation of the GROUT ANT ea UN ore cristshelifer= seta cieia e avetetmi ole! oheta cl ofeletaiaterel hele oie ctopara(sieiseel ial elstararehs 17 CHAPTER II.—TRANSPLANTING. Laying off the Ground—Season for Transplanting—Taking from the Nursery— Selection of Trees—Setting out Trees—Trimming ...........2..cceceeecceres 24 CHAPTER IV.—AFTER-CULTURE. Plowing and Hoeing—Pruning—Protection—Mulching ........ .....0...e000% 27 PAB Es Ghe Hifferent Minds of Hrwits. CHAPTER I.—THE ALMOND. Varieties: Sweet Hard Shell—Sweet Soft Shell. ..........ccccccccccccccscces 30 CHAPTER II.—THE APRICOT. Varieties: Large Early—Early Golden—Breda—Moorpark or Peach—Large REd== Shipley snlaane Sa. Ace e ae eer eo mas athe elaine lie oslo Ree avaheta iatioierstas mies ales 82 vi CONTENTS. CHAPTER III—THE APPLE. PAGE Varieties: Class I.— Summer Apples—Thirty Varicties: American Summer Pearmain—Benoni—Bough Apples Carolina Red June—Early Harvest— Early Chandler—Early Joe— Early Strawberry— Early Pennock— Golden Sweeting—Garretson’s Early—Holland Pippin—Keswick Codlin — Lyman’s Large Summer—Manomet Sweet—Oslin Pippin—Primate - Red Astrachan— Prince’s Harvest—Sine Qua Non—Sops of Wine- Summer Rose—Summer Queen—Summer Scarlet Pearmain—Sweet June—Summer Sweet Paradise— Townsend — Williams’ Favorite — Trumbull’s Sweeting — Wetherill’s White Sweeting. Class Il.—Full Apples—Forty Varieties: Alexander--Autumnal Swaar—Autumn Strawberry—Beauty of Kent—Bailey Spice—Cooper—Clyde Beauty —Dutchess of Oldenberg—Doctor—Drap d’Or, or Cloth of Gold— Fall Pippin — Fall Orange — Fall Harvey — Fleiuer — Fameuse — Gravenstein — Golden Ball—Hawthornden—Haskell Sweet—Jewett’s Fine Red—Hawley— Jeffries—Lyman’s Pumpkin Sweet—Leland Spice Munson Sweeting—Jer- sey Sweeting —Northern Sweeting—Orne’s Early—Pomme Royal—President —Lowell—Melon— Porter—Overman’s Sweet—Ross Nonpareil—St. Lawrence —Smokehouse, or Vandervere— Spice Sweet — Superb Sweet — Tompkins. Class ILI.— Winter App’es—Fifty Varieties: Bailey Sweet—Broadwell—Bald- win—Bullock’s Pippin—Bourrassa—Bellflower—Blue Pearmain—Baltimore —Canada Pippin—Challenge—Belmont—Danvers’ Winter Sweet—Dominie —Dutch Mignonne — Esopus Spitzenberg — Green Sweeting — Hubbardston Nonesuch—Herefordshire Pearmain —Hartford Sweeting— Lady Apple—Lim- ber Twig—Jonathan—Monmouth Pippin—Minister —- Michael Henry Pippin —Ladies’ Sweeting—Mother Apple —Newtown Pippin—Ortley—Northern Spy —Ohio Nonpareil — Peck’s Pleasant — Phillips’ Sweeting — Pomme Grise — Rawle’s Jaunet—Rome Beauty—Rambo—Reinnette, Canada—Red Canada— Rhode Island Greening — Ribston Pippin—Roxbury Russet—Swaar—Tewkes- bury Winter Blush — Vandevere — Tallman Sweeting —- Winter Pearmain — Wine Sap— Wine Apple— Westfield Seek-No-Further— Yellow Newtown Pip- pin. Additional Varieties—Class [V.—Crabs—Ornamental: Red Siberian— Yellow Siberian—Large Yellow Siberian—Double Flowering Chinese—Large Red Siberian—Cherry Crab—Astrachan, or Evergreen Apple Crab—Currant Crab—Transparent Zurich Apple—Black Lady Apple. Selection of Varie- ties: For Summer—For Early Autumn—For Autumn—F or Winter—For Win- ter and Spring—Lists from different Localities. Insects and Diseases, and their Remedies: The Borer—The Blight—The Bark Louse—The Caterpillar —The Apple Moth—Ants— Rabbits—Mice ........ basins. aie a EAC ORS So oOS 34 CHAPTER IV.—THE BLACKBERRY. Improved High Bush—New Rochelle, or Lawton Blackberry—Directions for Planting and Cultures). 2253.2) < srs Sette tsie se ererereloteywiale tele eiate ithale arayss ain ot ciaretotarere 73 CHAPTER V.—THE CHERRY. Varieties: American Amber—Black Heart—Black Eagle—Belle de Choisy— Belle Magnifique—Bigarreau, or Yellow Spanish—Buttner’s Yellow—Black Tartarian—Burr’s Seedling— Black Hawk-—Buttner’s Morello—Cleveland Bi- garreau—China Bigarreau— Carnation—Coe’s Transparent—Downton—Deli- cate—Donna Maria—Downer’s Late Red- Eariy Richmond — Elton — Early Purple Guigne—Governor Wood—Gridley, or Apple Cherry—Indulle, Nain CUNT HN TS: vii PAGE Precoce — Iocosot — Kennicott -— Kirtland’s Mary — Kirtland Mammoth — Knight’s Early Black - Large Heart-Shaped Bigarreau—Monstreuse de Mezel —Manning’s Mottle1—May Duke—Monello, English—Pontiac—Powhatan— Napoleon Bigarreau — Red Jacket — Reine Hortense — Tecumseh — Trades- cant’s Black Heart—Sparhawk’s Honey—White French Guigne— Morris Bais- levis uNewnVviariety—Additional Varieties... 5.52.5 cece cao. cs seek en Ceneeeen CHAPTER VI.—THE CURRANT Varieties: Black Naples—Knight’s Sweet Red—Red and White Dutch—May’s Victoria— Cherry Currant - White Pearl—White Grape—Red Grape—Cham- pagne—Prince Albert—Missouri Large Fruited-—-Missouri Sweet Fruited— SUMMA RAS O00 ral hah Se chi eo atvkib co 204) 2 ato Wiehe oe Sele Seo rnts pid’ S die RMON acc avennieel CHAPTER VII.—THE GOOSEBERRY. Mildew.— Varieties: Houghton’s Seedling—Crown Bob—Roaring Lion Sheba Queen— W hitesmith—Red— White—Green —Yellow ....................0006 CHAPTER VIII.—THE GRAPE. Lieisabella— Phe Catawha— Oram vcs csc ccc s ck ook coos con cess les cutee CHAPTER IX —THE NECTARINE. Varieties: Early Violet—Elruge - Downton—Boston—Hunt’s Tawny—Early Newington—Hardwicke Seedling—Late Melting—French Yellow—Orange— hed Ronse lara Marly ViOlet is ota. adele < weln sd sp suiehigde pas ascccenenee os CHAPTER X.—THE PEACH. Descriptive List: Bergen’s Yellow—Coolidge’s Favorite—Crawford’s Late Melocoton—Early York—Large Early York—George 1V.—Grosse Mignonne —Morris White—Old Mixon Freestone—Early Anne—Early Tillotson—Cole’s Early Red—Early Newington Freestone—White Imperial—Brevoort—Bar- nard—Jacques’ Rareripe - Nivette—President— Red Cheek Melocoton—Druid Hill—Old Mixon Cling—Large White Clingstone—Old Newington—Lemon Cling—Blood Cling—Heath Cling— Yellow Rareripe - Ward’s Late Freestone —Columbia—Prince’s Red Rareripe—Hyslop — Malta—Late Admirable—Van- zandt’s Superb—Walter’s Early—Scott’s Nonpareil—Snow Peach—Ilaines’ Early—Orchard Queen—KEarly Sweet Water—Bellegarde—Royal George— Skinner’s Superb—Tippecanoe—Incomparable— W ashington Cling—St. Louis — Smock — Prince’s Paragon. — Soil. — Ji sects and Diseases; The Peach- Wrorm—PherWvellows——lueain@ und, Dominie, Autumn Strawberry, Maiden’s Blush, White Bellflower, Belmont. The following were pronounced positively good, by the number of votes attached to each, in convention of 22 members of the N. W. Pomological Society, at Chicago, 1853. Karly Harvest............ had yvotes...20| Fall Pippin.............. had votes. ..14 MarolinacsUne ss <2. 2)% ese “ Aa RET Greening. asc een os bs seek BA Wiles SANetie, nics icece ds he ae nl Mad en’ ss aShiecs.ys/ cers 6 se Sepals Sweet Boushe. csc seca ° eiore La OM AMICUS C5 ee nseciel cin ie'0'0, 076 a Bent) Summer Queen........... tf ,.-10| Roxbury Russet.......... * en Wandeverers weer ks $e ack | Yellow Beilflower........ sere ld BERND 2 sic. Gin! hier ti ale lero (9 sls : ...17' Esopus Spitzenberg ...... vi vs 12 70 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. Balawitia. occa sescn.cdase had votes...11 | Summer Rose............had votes... 6 IWine=Sap ss sij-.o-%easics sé .»-10 | Golden Russet. .......... - 6 Am. Summer Pearmain .. “ ... 9} American Golden Busset. “ oe tel White Bellflower......... xk ... 8| Newtown Pippin ........ & ap Swear ds a. ateret ayes « oe octal eeswick (Codlin:. 552.061 As 5 Sweet June... ves. 0c. "3 ... 7} White Winter Pearmain.. a 5 These lists might be extended to a much greater length, but it is not deemed necessary. Those given are from extreme and distant parts of the Union (excepting the far South), and may serve to make known to planters the varieties most in repute in their respective localities. A careful study of these lists, and the descriptions heretofore given, will enable the intelligent planter to make a good and suitable collection of trees. INSECTS AND DISEASES, AND THEIR REMEDIES. The diseases and enemies of the apple are not near so numerous and formidable as those of several other fruits. Tue Borer.—This is a grub which eats into the wood near the surface of the ground, and is very destructive in some woods, but has not yet made himself formidable to the apple in many parts of the country. A wash made of tobacco, sulphur, and soap-suds, applied in the spring, after digging away the earth from the trunk of the tree, has been used with good success. A mound of ashes placed around the tree in the winter, and allowed to remain till after the hatching of the eggs in early summer, is a good preventive. When fairly in and at work in the wood, the best remedy is to find their holes, and kill them with some sharp instrument—an aw] or a piece of wire. Tue Brieut.—This is a disease for which no satisfactory cause seems yet to have been discovered. It attacks generally the ends of the branches all over the tree alike. As no cause has been discovered, no certain remedy has been proposed, Recourse must be had to the knife. Cut away all the affected branches, as low as the disease has appeared, and burn or otherwise destroy them. Continue the process, if necessary, until the whole tree is cut away. Trees in good soil, and kept in a proper state of cultivation, will not be so subject to attacks of the Blizht as those otherwise situated. THE APPLE. 71 — Tue Bark Lovsre—is a little brown insect, which appears sometimes in great numbers on the bark of the tree and branches, and lives upon the sap. They may be destroyed by a decoction of tobacco-juice and soap- suds, applied by dipping or sprinkling with a syringe. They may be removed from the body and Jarge limbs by seraping. A mixture of lime, soap, and water is also a good remedy. Exuiort says: ‘A good wash for all insects is made of—say five gallons of weak ley, one pound powdered sulphur, and four ounces soot, or lampblack, thoroughly mixed.” A solution of aloes is good to protect trees froin yermin—so says RaspalL. THe CATERPILLAR.—In some seasons these pests have been very destructive to the apple-tree—so much so as to almost destroy whole orchards. Their eggs are usually deposited in the fork of a limb, or near the ends of the branches, in clusters, where they re- main all winter, and hatch early in the spring. At first they are not larger in circumference than a pin, but continue growing till they reach the size of a small pipe-stem, and two inches in length —living meanwhile upon the foliage, which by the middle of sum- mer will be entirely stripped from the tree. To destroy them, cut away and burn the small branches which hold them during the winter, or before they begin to crawl in the spring; or if this has been neglected, brush them off with a swab saturated with soap-suds, or lime-water, or spirits of ammonia. A brush made of rough tow, grass, straw, or old woolen rags, and attached to the end of a pole, and turned a few times in their nests, will remove them. If a few escape and migrate to other branches or other trees, and build new homes, they must be treated in the same manner. The swabs should be burned after being used. Tue AprLte Morn.—This insect deposits its eggs in the eye or blossom end of the young fruit, during the months of June and July, from which is hatched in a short time a whitish grub, that eats into the core, causing the apple to decay and fall to the ground. The grub then leaves the fruit, and finds its way to the bark of the tree, beneath the scales of which it winds itself a cocoon, and awaits the return of another summer. The best remedy is to keep the bark smooth by scraping, and by cs 72 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. a thorough washing with soft-soap at the opening of each spring. The fallen fruit should all be eaten up by the hogs. Ants—are sometimes very troublesome about fruit-gardens, by making their hillocks among the trees. The plow or hoe will gen- erally compel them to find other quarters, but not always. They may be extirpated by pouring boiling water in upon them. If they infest the ripening fruit, as they sometimes do, catch them by sus- pending an open bottle in the tree, partly filled with syrup or mo- lasses—then destroy them. Rapsirs—are very destructive to young orchards and nurseries, by gnawing the bark, especially during the snows of winter. They eat the bark for food. The trees must be protected by tying split corn-stalks, or small strips of bark, or shingles around the body, or by wrapping them carefully with wisps of twisted straw, to the height of two feet or more. Mice—will also fréquently injure the bark of trees near the base, especially if any grass or straw in which they can shelter has been allowed to remain there. To keep them away, heap a mound of dirt around each tree in the fall, to the depth of ten or twelve inches, and allow it to remain till spring. Chapter Four. Ee Db As Ke BW, iY. Tus is one of the best fruits for the table, and popular in all mar- kets and among all classes of people; and is certainly deserving of much more attention than it has heretofore received as a garden fruit. The remark of the farmer whose fields were overgrown with briers, and who refused to allow his neighbors to pick the berries, because, as he alleged—‘“‘ If they had not been so lazy, they might have had blackberries of their own,” will in time cease to be a joke; for they will be obtained by industry and cultivation, instead of neglect and waste. There are varieties to be found, no doubt, in many localities, which, by careful and judicious culture and management, might almost be made to rival the celebrated New Rochelle or Lawton Blackberry. That, it is said, was originally transplanted from the roadside to the garden—and high cultivation did the rest. The Blackberry is propagated by layers and by seeds. It is rather hard to transplant, which may be mainly owing to the fact that its habits have not yet become sufficiently understood. It abounds in a rich and mellow, and rather damp soil; flourishes in its wild state mostly by the side of old logs or stumps, or around stone heaps, or in the corners of fences, or any place where large quantities of leaves or other vegetable mold abounds. The two varieties most cultivated in the United States at the present time are the Improvep Hieu Busu.—Introduced into notice by Capt. Lovett, of Beverly, Mass. ‘‘The berry is long, egg-shaped, shining black, juicy, and rich; the plant erect, blossoms white; ripens at a most timely season—after the raspberry.” Capt. L. has produced them an inch and a half long. 4 74 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. Affe) Rs Pre, Fig. 28.—Improvep Hien Buss. New Roovetite, or Lawron Biackserry.—This has been for several years cultivated in and about New Rochelle, N. Y., and was first brought to public no- tice by Mr. Witt1am Lawton, of that place. In a description of it in a late Patent Office Report, he says: ‘“‘The New Rochelle Blackberry sends up annually large and vigorous upright shoots, with lateral branches, all of which, under common - cultivation, will be crowded with fine fruit, a portion of them ripening daily, in moist bs seasons, for six weeks. They Fig. 29.—Nzw RocHette Buackserry. are perfectly hardy, always thrifty and productive ; and I have not found them liable to blight THE BLACKBERRY. 75 or injury by insects. Except that they are perfectly hardy, and need no protection in winter, the cultivation may be the same as the Antwerp Raspberry; but, to produce berries of the largest size, they should have a heavy, damp soil, and shade.” Besides Mr. Lawron, Messrs. Grorere Srymour & Co., of South Norwalk, Conn., have been successful cultivators of this va- riety. From a circular received from them last spring, the follow- ing paragraphs are extracted: “The plants are perfectly hardy, and will flourish in any good soil, whether moist, dry, or shaded. ‘“‘They commence bearing the second summer after planting, and produce enormous crops of large and delicious fruit every year, at the time when it is the most needed. The berries begin to ripen the latter part of July, and a portion of them mature daily, for four to six weeks. | “This fruit is pre-eminently adapted to small city inclosures, as it can be grown by the bushel in a very small spacc, with but trifling care.” From the same circular we extract the following: ‘“‘ DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING AND CuLTURE.—AS soon as you receive the plants, unpack and bury them in fresh soil; let them remain there until your ground is prepared. In no case suffer the roots to be exposed to the wind or sun. ‘Lay out a bed from four to six feet wide, near a fence or any other convenient place; spade the ground from fifteen to twenty inches deep; if the subsoil is gravel, throw it out, and put good soil in its place. Distance should be from six to eight feet apart. The stems of the plants should be cut down to six inches. Plant the roots about three inches deep; when planted in autumn, cover with straw, mulch, or litter, which remove in the spring. ‘The new shoots start from the roots, consequently the ground about the plants should be cultivated with care until they make their appearanee. Allow but two canes to grow from each root the first summer; these will produce fruit the second summer. At the same time other shoots will make their appearance, preparatory to bearing the ensuing season, and but two of these should be al- lowed to grow—consequently there will be two growing and two 76 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. bearing canes to each root every season; the latter will die in the fall, and should then be removed.” Mr. Barry says of this fruit: “It can not fail to be an object of very profitable culture within any reasonable distance of large cities. * * * Noone need expect such wondrous large fruit, however, as people have witnessed at New Rochelle and Norwalk, in ordinary soil and with ordinary culture. Manure must be ap- plied unsparingly, and the ground must be kept clean and friable as work can make it. Rich soil and clean culture are indispensable to the growth of large fruits of any kind.” Chapter Fibe. THE CHERRY. THe Cuerry will do well on almost any dry soil, but that qual- ity is indispensable—it must be dry. Few soils are sufficiently dry without artificial draining. In the richer class of soils, cherries should only be cultivated in the spring and early summer—never later than August, as late cul- ture induces second growth and immature wood, incapable of with- standing the rigor of the succeeding winter. Pruning should be done in July—some recommend March. As a standard tree, the cherry should be pruned but little—only to cut away the decayed, crooked, or deformed limbs. / VARIETIES. 1, American AmBrEr.—Medium size, amber color, delicious. Vigorous and productive. First of July. 2. Brack Heart.— THE CHERRY. 79 19. Downer’s Late Rep.—Rather large, light red, tender, juicy, vigorous and productive. Middle of July. Fig. 31.—Downer’s Lats Rep. Fig. 32.—Governor Woop. Fig. 83.—Locosor. 20. Earty Ricumonp.—Early, red, acid—for cooking. June. 21. Erron.—Large, pointed, pale yellow and red, juicy, and rich. Tree vigorous and irregular. End of July. 22. Earty PureLte Guiene.—Medium, purple, tender, juicy, and sweet. Growth slender and spreading. 23. Governor Woop.—Large, round, light red, tender, juicy, sweet, rich. Middle of June. Vigorous and productive while young. 24, GRIDLEY, on APPLE Coerry.—Medium, dark brown, firm, sprightly, sub-acid. Immense bearer. Last of July. 25. Inputte, Narn Precoce.—Karliest of all cherries. Last of May. Dwarf in habit, quite prolific. 26. Iocosor.—Large, rich, glossy, almost black, tender, juicy, rich, sweet. Last of June, Thrifty—productive. New. 80 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. 97. Kennicorr.—Large, amber yellow, mottled with red; firm, juicy, rich, and sweet. Middle of July. Vigorous, hardy, very productive. 98. KirtLaAnp’s Mary.—Large, round, red on yellow ground; firm, rich, juicy, sweet, very high flavored. Strong grower, very prolific. First of July. 29. KirrLanp’s Mammoru.—Mammoth size, clear yellow, mar- bled with rich red; juicy, sweet, high flavored. Moderately pro- ductive. Last of June. 30. Kyieur’s Earty Brack. Very productive. Last of June. Large, black, tender, juicy, rich. 31. Larce Heart-Suarep Bicarreau.—Large, dark, shining brown, rich, and excellent. Vigorous, spreading—middle of July. 32. MonsTREUSE DE Mreze.t.—Very large, dark brown; vigorous, late—middle of July. New—French. Fig. 31.—KirtLanp’s Mary. Fig. 85.—MonsTrEvUsE DE MBZEL. THE” CHERRY. 81 33. Mannine’s Morrrep.—Large, amber shaded, tender, sweet, delicious. Vigorous and productive. End of June. 34, May Duxe.—An old and excellent sort; large, dark red, juicy, sub-acid, rich. Mardy and fruitful—fine for dwarfs and pyramids. June and July. 39. Moneitio, Eneiisu.—Large, dark red, nearly black; juicy, sub-acid, rich. Tree small and slender. August. Valuable. 36. Ponriac.—Large, dark, purplish red, juicy, sweet, agreeable, Last of June. Tree vigorous and productive. 37. PowHaran.—Medium, rich purplish red, marbled, juicy sweet, pleasant. Middle of July. Vigorous and productive. 88. NapoLrron Bicgarreau.—Largest size, pale yellow and red, juicy and sweet. Vigorous grower and enormous bearer. First of July. 39. Rep Jacxer.—-Large, light red, juicy, good flavor. Middle of July. Hardy, very productive. 40, Reise Horrensr (Monstreuse de Bavay).—Large, bright, juicy, delicious. Tree vigorous and bears well. Good tor pyramid—new—French. 41. Trcumsen.—Large, reddish pur- 4 ple, juicy, sweet, not high favored. Middle of July. Vigorous and hardy. 42, Trapescant’s Brack Hearr.— Fig. 36.—Naporron Brearreav. Very large, black, firm, juicy, good. Tree vigorous, a great bearer. Last of July. 43. Sparmawk’s Hloney.—Medium, light, red, sweet, and deli- cious. Tree vigorous, pyramidal, productive. Last of July. 44, Wire Frenon Guicne.—Large, creamy white, tender and melting, sweet. Not attacked by birds, as red and black cherries are. Vigorous and very productive. Middle of July. 82 THE DIFFERENT: KINDS “OF: FEREUITS, Mr. Morris Batstry, of Westchester, Westchester Co., N. Y., has succeeded in introducing an entirely new variety of the cherry, which ripens in September—months after all the other kinds have disappeared. It is of good size, rich orange color, firm, crisp flesh, with avery fine flavor. We regard it as a rare curiosity.—Life Illustrated, The winter of 1855-6 was remarkably severe upon most kinds of fruit-trees, and in some sections the less hardy kinds were almost entirely destroyed. Mr. A. V. Beprorp, of Paris, Ky., has furnished the Valley Farmer with some facts showing the effect of frost on the different varieties of the cherry, from which we gather that his Early Pur- ple Guigne, Knight’s Early Black, Belle de Choisy, May Duke, Late Duke, Reine Hortense, Buttner’s Yellow, Manning’s Mottled, Coe’s Transparent, Rockford Bigarreau, and Belle de Orleans have all proved hardy. Downer’s Late Red, White French, Guigne, and Napoleon are severely injured. Black Tartarian, Elton, Bauman’s May, and Holland Bigarreau are killed to the snow line. Trades- cant’s, or Elkhorn, Burr’s Seedling, and Governor Wood are en- tirely killed. Something may have been owing somewhat to situa- tion, soil, or culture in producing these effects; but they are stated to have been contiguous, and supposed to have been subject to the same conditions and treatment. ADDITIONAL VARIETIES Which have been recommended as “ good,” ‘‘ excellent,” ete., by cultivators and societies, many of which are doubtless worthy of general cultivation : Adam’s Crown, American Heart, Anne, Arcdhuke, Atwater’s Elizabeth, Belle de Orleans, Caroline, Carmine Stripe, Christiana, Conestoga, Cumberland, Davenport's Early, Doctor, Downing’s Champagne, D’Esperin, Duchess of Padua, Elliott’s Favorite, Florence, Tloadley, Hovey, Holland Bigarreau, Hildesheim Bigarreau, Imperial Morello, Jeffries’ Duke, Kirtland’s Logan, —— Large Morello, ——— Brandt, Keokuk, Leatherstocking, Marvel of September, Ohio Beauty, Plumstone Morello, Proudfoot’s Seedling, President Rivers’ Amber, Robert’s Red Heart, Rumsey’s Late Morello, Shannon, Sweet Montmorency, Vail’s August Duke, Walsh’s Seedling, Waterloo, Wilkinson. Chapter Six. cede te Cot Ry RAL NOT. Tus fruit rejoices in a moist, cool climate, and yet, with proper cultivation, is made to succeed admirably in most parts of our country. The currant is easily raised, and is a most valuable fruit. Its pleasant, acid flavor makes it a favorite with all classes, and the great variety of modes in which it can be served up, together with the season of its ripening, renders it almost indispensable. The currant is best propagated by cuttings. These should be ten or twelve inches long, of the straight and firm last season’s growth, and should be cut just below their union with the old wood. With a sharp knife cut away all the buds from that portion of the cutting designed to be under ground, leaving only two or three buds above the surface. In this way the growth of suckers may be prevented. The cuttings should be obtained and set as early in the spring as it is possible to get the ground in readiness. | The soil should be deep, mellow, and rich. The cuttings should be inserted about one half their length into the earth, if they are long, cr two thirds if short, by means of a dibble or sharp instru- ment, and the loose mold pressed firmly around them with the hand. They should then have a good mulching of old straw or leaves, or other suitable material, to the depth of three inches or more. The cuttings should be ten or twelve inches apart, in rows two feet distant. In the following spring they may be transplanted. Make the rows wide enough apart to admit of cultivation with a plow, and put the plants one yard apart in the rows. Remove all suckers, if any appear, and allow no branches nearer than one foot to the ground. Prune the head to the form of a tree. If desirable, it can be trained to a trellis, to suit the taste of the cultivator, Every 84 THE DIFFERENT (KINDS (OF FRUITS. spring cut away tle three-year-old branches, thus keeping the nec- essary supply of new bearing wood. Each fall the mulch of the preceding summer should be forked in, and a heavy supply of good manure added. The currant can not easily be overfed. The rows should be renewed once in five or six years, as the young and vigorous trees will be more productive than the old, and will yield better and larger fruit. The currant may be easily trained against a wall or fence in the following manner: When a cutting just transplanted begins to grow, rub off all the shoots on the stem except such as may be necessary to give it the proper shape—say three, one for a vertical position, and the others for laterals. In the spring following, train these in the direction desired, and observe the same care in regard to side shoots, allowing only a sufficient number to grow to give the tree a proper form. And so on, from year to year. An annual pruning and shortening in is necessary to insure good fruit. VARIETIES. 1. Braox Napies.—A very superior black currant, of fine flavor, bearing the largest-sized berries in large clusters. Very productive. 2. Knieut’s Sweet Rep.—Mild and pleasant, resembling the White Dutch in quality, and the Red Dutch in color, but not so deeply colored. 8,4. Rep anp Waurre Dutcu.—Good size and mild flavor, and quite productive. 5, May’s Vicrorra.—Known also as Houghton Castle. Bunches very long, berries large and pale red. A good bearer. Fruit hangs long on the bushes, 6. Cuerry Currant,—The largest of all red currants. Quite sour, branches short. Vigorous grower and abundant bearer. Very valuable, : 7. Wurre Prart,—New—described as growing in long bunches, and being of a pearl color. 8, Wuire Grapr,—A very large, white sort; bunches large, THE CURRANT. 85 berries closely set; pale, transparent. . Very distinct from other white sorts. A great bearer. 9, Rep Grape.—Long branches; berries large, light red. Good grower, good bearer. 10. CHampaene.—New variety, color light pink. 11. Pryce Arperr.—aA very large, light red; late, distinct va- riety ; an immense bearer, very valuable. 12. Missourr Larae Fruirep.—Large, violet fruit. Immense bearer. Grows to large bushes. 13. Missourr Sweer Fruirep.—Blue color, sweet, late. Great bearer, large bush. 14. Sirver Sreipep.—Red fruit, silver-stripe foliage; curious. The pomological societies recommend specially the Black Naples, May’s Victoria, Red and White Dutch, and White Grape. The Red and White Dutch have been extensively tested throughout the Northern, Central, and Western States. The Missouris promise to be valuable. Chapter Seven. THE GOOSEBERRY. Tue gooseberry is propagated in the same manner, and requires much the same general culture as the currant—excepting that, as it is a gross feeder, it requires a deeper and richer soil. Trench two feet deep, and fill in the bottom a heavy dressing of fresh stable manure. Place the rows five feet apart, and the trees three feet apart in the rows. Keep off all shoots from the roots, and trim to a single stem, from twelve to thirty inches high, and keep the head well thinned out, but do not cut off the ends of the young shoots. Free access of air and light is necessary, but no shade. A writer in the Vermont Chronicle, in reference to the high-bush mode of training, says: ‘“‘T have one six feet high. This places your fruit out of the way of hens, and prevents the gooseberry from mildewing, which often happens when the fruit lies on or near the ground, and is shaded by a superabundance of leaves and sprouts. It changes an unsightly bush, which cumbers and disfigures your garden, into an ornamental dwarf tree. The fruit is larger, and ripens better, and will lust on the bushes, by growing in perfection, until late in the fail.” Mitpew.—tThe chief drawback to the culture of the goossberry in this country is, that the fruit is so liable tomildew. This is sup- posed to be caused by a superabundance of heat, and too little moisture in the atmosphere. Good culture will, in an eminent de- gree, remedy this evil. High, open culture, free manuring, and copious mulching are the best known remedies. Sawdust, or spent tan bark, makes a gool mulch for the gooseberry. It should be applied liberally—to a depth of at least four to six inches. Hay, or other mulching mate- rial, sprinkled occasionally with common salt, is likewise good. THE GOOSEBERRY. 87 Hog manure, to the depth of three inches beneath each tree, has been found highly beneficial. Sprinkling with ashes when the dew is on has had a good effect on the fruit to prevent mildew. Fre- quent sprinkling with soap-suds, early in the spring, has a fine effect on the growth of the bush, and is a good preventive of mildew. To prevent gooseberries from mildewing, remove the dirt from about the roots, thickly mulch with salted meadow hay, and then cover again with earth. This mode is recommended by R. T. Haines, Elizabethtown, N. J. VARIETIES. 1. Hovauron’s Srepimc.—This is inferior in size to many of the English varieties, but has been found to be less affected with mildew than any other; it is also a most excellent fruit, and generally productive, and for these rea- / sons is perhaps more worthy of general { cultivation, especially at the West, than is any other variety. It was produced by , ii ‘e Mr. Aset Hoventon, of Lynn, Mass., “a im : Fig. 87.—Hovucuton’s SEEDLING. and is a cross probably between some ~ °”' ; English variety and our native fruit of the woods. Its flavor is sweet and delicious, and in cooking qualities stands unrivaled. Color pale red. 2. Crown Boxr.—Very large, red fruit; spreading branches; flavor of the best. BY 3. Roartye Lron.—Branches droop- ing; fruit large, red, and hangs long. 4, Suepa QvreN.—Large, white fruit, good flavor, erect branehes. 5. Wiiresmiti.—Large, often over an inch in length; very productive ; color white and bluish. Very erect habit, 88 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. ELLWANGER and Barry name the following in their catalogue as being free-growing and productive va- rieties, well adapted to our climate: Rep. — Ashton, Bogart, Companion, 4 Crown Bob, Emperor, Echo, Ironmonger, ] Lancashire Lad, Melbourne, Major Hill, 7 Prince, Red,Champagne, Royal Forester, Roaring Lion, Warrington. ate Tr, mse Rees r see 2 Wruirz.—Fleur de Lis, Queen Caroline, Queen of Sheba, Smiling Beauty, White- Fig. 88.—Warrrsuita. ~— snith, White Ostrich, White Eagle. GrEEN.—Green Wood, Green Laurel, Conquering Hero, Leader, Lively Green, Green Willow, Green Ocean, Profit. Yettow.—Bunker Hill, Broom Girl, Cheshire Cheese, Golden Drop, Yellow Lion. The American Pomolozical Society has recommended the follov- = rv) ing, as promising weil, for general cultivation: Crown Bob, Early Sulphur, Ironmonger, Green Walnut, Houghton’s Seedling, Warrington, ——— Gage, Red Champagne, Woodward’s Whitesmith Laurel, Twelve good gooseberries—free growers and good bearers: Rep —Crown Bob, Warrington, Lancashire Lad, Roaring Lion, Echo, Companion. Wiite—Whitesmith, Queen of Sheba. YErrow— Golilen Drop, Bunker Hill, Grrex—reen Ocean, Green Willow. — Horticulturist. We think very highly of Houghton’s Seedling gooseberry. It is much inferior in size, beauty, and flavor to the large English varie- ties, such as Crown Bob, Warrington, Whitesmith, ete., but then it is more at home in our climate. It grows freely, propagates easily, bears most abundantly, and the fruit is comparatively, though not wholly, exempt from mildew.—/ortieulturist. Chapter Gight. THE GRAPE. Tue limits and design of this little work will not permit a lengthy < . chapter on the culture of the grape, which is o G g OF “5 ai » becoming quite extensive in this country, both FSR t * cy ~, 28 adessert fruit and for the manufacture of 2S 9 yO wine. Most persons who design to cultivate ee ye IES vineyards, as well as those who will enter into at ORY ~S the Hot-House and Cold-Vinery culture, will ee pot seek information from some of the more elabo- yt,” rate treatises on the subject. But the common : 1. Ax out-door garden culture is well worthy the at- gy. G tention of all who have room for a vine to a ROS Ler grow; and it will as richly reward the labor oo {3 . . & Ses} S How and care bestowed upon it as any other kind of Fe iy eu S . PUNK oe eo fruit. The following parts of a chapter on the grape, in PARDEE’s work on the STRAWBERRY, embrace so nearly what should be said on the garden culture of that fruit, that no apology is offered for introducing and adopting them here: = he een aie “The grape is easily and cheaply raised, but ING. good cultivation is altogether the best economy. It is easily propagated from cuttings. We have found it the best way to prune off our cuttings early in February, two fect in length, bury them in a bundle four to six inches deep in the ground imme- diately, and for this purpose we choose the warmest weather in the month. ‘**Let them be in the ground tiil the warm weather in the fore part of May [in New York—farther southward—earlier]; we then take them up and plant them in a sloping position, in a somewhat 90 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. shaded situation, leaving the upper bud a few inches above the ground. In this way almost every cutting will surely grow, and after a year or two should be carefully transplanted into the vine border. “The preparation of this vine border is an important process in grape culture in private gardens. It should be made from four to six feet wide, and two to three feet deep, and be composed of a lib- eral mixture of limestone, or old plaster or mortar, bones, leather parings, hair, ashes, and strong, well-rotted manure, well mixed with the soil. ‘“A calcareous soil or gravelly loam is best. for the grape, and should, be well drained and warm. It is somewhat difficult in wet clay lands to raise good grapes, unless the vine border is carefully prepared. Soap-suds and wash from the house are favorable for the grape; and we have known some plants succeed well that were placed immediately under the spout of the sink. For vineyard cul- ture, the nearer the process approximates to the one described above, by trenching and enriching, the better. “Every plant should be thoroughly pruned down to two or three leading shoots; and after these, cover the trellis or stakes as exten- sively as you wish; then the rule in pruning is, every year, from December to first of February, fearlessly to cut back all of the last year’s growth, so far as to leave only two eyes. It is also desirable, after the grapes are beginning to fill in June, to pinch back the ter- minal bud of every branch, and thus check its growth, and throw back its sap, to ripen the fruit and mature the wood. By pinching back, we mean to pinch off, with the thumb-nail and forefinger, the end of every bearing branch, and we then cut out all the super- fluous little shoots and suckers. “The vine is composed for the greater part of potash, lime, and earbonie acid, and therefore a frequent application of lime, ashes, and soap-suds is beneficial. It has been asserted that tartaric acid is a valuable specific for the fruit, but of this we have no personal knowledge. “The grape should always be grown in the warmest and most sheltered situation, so that the fruit may ripen well before frost. The south side of a house or southern slope of a hill-side should be chosen. ‘In some places the mildew is troublesome to the grape, but THE GRAPE. 91 sulphur sprinkled liberally on its first appearance will usually check it at once. There is also a kind of snail slug, which often destroys the leaves in afew weeks. These can easily be destroyed by shower- ing the vines two or three times with strong soap-suds from the wash. “Our nurserymen have many kinds of the grape on their lists for open-air cultivation, but we are not quite sure that the Jsabella and Catawba do not comprise sub- stantially the good qualities of all. The only com- plaint against them seems to be, they will not in all situations and all seasons at the North ripen before the frost. “The Clinton is two weeks earlier than the Isa- bella, but it is not near so large or good. “The Catawba is still later than the Isabella, and __ requires a warm soil and sheltered location to per- He eee Pon fect its fruit, and then it is rich and truly delicious. “We are in great want of a new seedling grape, equal or superior to the Isabella and Catawba, and decidedly two or three weeks earlier. We often have such announced, but they do not always prove satis- factory.” Fig. 42.-To: The above is all that need be said of the grape cul- CaTawBA. ture in general. It is sufficiently comprehensive for the wants of all that class who desire to cultivate a few vines for home uses; and for those who are entering into the culture more extensively, larger treatises will be required. The Concord, the Diana, the Clinton, and others, have been brought forward as substitutes for the Catawba and Isabella, but the best cultivators continue to rely upon the latter. The time may come, however, when, by crossing some foreign variety upon the native grape, a new variety will be produced superior to either, We must bide the time. The N. W. Pomological Convention, held at Chieago, 1854, rec- ommends the Isabella as the best for general cultivation throughout the Northwest, but that the Catawba is superior in those localities where it will ripen. TRAINING. Most persons prefer a trellis or framework for the vine to run on 92 THE DIFFERENT: BENDS OF FEREUITS. laterally. This is built by planting posts—say six or seven feet high, and the same distance apart, and nailing upon them boards of the required length, and from three to four inches broad. There should be four of these in number—one at the top, one ten inches from the bottom, and the remaining two at equal distances between. To these the vine should be trained. Another good mode, and one which is practiced in most vine- yards, is to train the vines to single perpendicular stakes—say six or seven feet high, and set in rows five or six feet apart. This gives ample room for free admission of air and sunshine, as well as for good, clean cultivation. ——— GChayter Hine. THE NECTARINE. Tue nectarine in its nature and habits very much resembles the peach, from which it differs but little, but mostly in the smooth- ness of its skin. The same culture and general management is requisite for both. It is peculiarly liable to the attacks of the cur- culio, and on that account full, well-ripened crops are rare. Yet it is usually a prolific bearer, and, could the ravages of its great enemy be prevented, it would soon become a common and highly valued fruit. VARIETIES. Those most worthy of general cultivation are— 1. Earty Vioter.—Medium size, purplish red, very fine flavor. Last of August. 2. Erruce.—Medium, greenish yellow, fine flavored. First of September. 3. Downron.—Medium, pale green and violet ; excellent. The above have been recommended by the American Pomolog- ical Society as worthy of general cultivation. The following are also regarded by some societies and cultivators as equally worthy of attention: 4, Bosron.—Large, handsome, yéllow and red. 5. Hunt’s Tawny.—Small, dark red, early. 6. Earty Nrewrneron.—Large, pale green and red, juicy, rich. 7. Harpwicke SEepiine.—Small, orange red, juicy. August. 8. Lare Merrinc.—White and red, very late. 94 THE DIFFERENT KINDS: OF TRUER: 9. Frencu YELLow.—Medium, greenish yellow, rich. September. 10. Orancr.—Large, orange; rich and fine. September. 11. Rep Roman.—Greenish red; rich and good. September. 12. Laree Earty Vioter.—Larger than No. 1, but not so good. In the full belief that the curculio—the scourge of the fruit-gar- den—will yet be conquered, the reader is urged to plant a fair assortment of nectarines, as well as other fruits. Chapter Gen, THE PEACH. Tae peach, in all climates suited to its growth, is the most com- mon and easily obtained of the whole family of fruits. It is to be found in the orchard and door-yard of every one who attempts the Fig. 45.—Tue Pzacu. cultivation of fruits at all—and yet how little care and attention is bestowed upon it! It grows and yields its annual supply with 96 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. very little culture; yet extra labor and skill are always with it most ainply rewarded in its increased size, excellence, and beauty. The peach will usually bear in quite cold weather, even to 20 or 25 degrees below zero, unless the buds have been previously swollen by warm weather in the fall, or unless succeeded immediately by warm sunshine. Trees that have grown in improper soil, or are otherwise in an unhealthy condition, will be more liable to have their fruit killed by frost. The chief food of the peach are lime, potash, and bone-dust; consequently on soils where these are naturally in abundance, or where they are plentifully supplied, may it be expected to produce the largest crops of healthy and vigorous fruit. Trees thus fed, and kept properly trimmed and cultivated, will live longer than those not so favorably circumstanced. Peaches are easily propagated from the seed. If the stones or pits be properly planted in the fall, they will usually sprout in the spring. To succeed well, take the stones before they have become dry, and cover them in a pile to a depth of four to six inches, in light, sandy soil. Here they will freeze and crack open during the winter, and on the return of spring, and by the time the ground can be made fit to receive them, they will be found to haye germi- nated. Take them carefully up, and plant in rows four or five feet apart, and ten or twelve inches in the row, covering them about two inches deep with rich pulverized soil. By keeping the ground well cultivated during the summer, and clear of all grass and weeds, they will reach a height of three to five feet by the first of Sept. A few of the stones, when raised in the spring, will be found not — to have cracked open; these must be opened by using a hammer, taking care to strike them on the edge, and not on the end, or fiat- wise; otherwise they will be injured. Plant these in rows sepa- rate from the others, as it is desirable to have all in the same rows as near one size as possible—and those will not be likely to grow as large as the others. Those trees which have reached a proper growth should be bud- ded the same year—in August or early September. Many irans- plant the seedling trees, either because it is considered too expensive to procure the budded ones, or because they are thought to be as valuable, or from want of proper reflection on the subject. It is true that, in some instances, nearly the same fruit as that from the THE PEACH. 97 parent tree is thus produced; this is oftener the case with the yel- low-fleshed varieties than any others. Yet it is far better to plant only the best, even at four times the cost, than to plant the seedling tree. He who does so will surely gain in the end, by the superior excellence of his crop, and the consequently higher price for it in the market. For description of the process of budding, see Ap- pendix. The following note to Errwancrer & Barry’s Catalogue com- presses almost the whole subject of Pzacnw Currure into a nut- shell : . “Ist. Keep the ground clean and mellow around the trees, and give it an occasional dressing of wood-ashes. 2d. Keep the heads low—the trunk ought not to exceed three feet in height. [One to two feet is better, we think.] 3d. Attend regularly every spring to pruning and shortening the shoots of the previous year’s growth. This keeps the head round, full, and well furnished with bearing wood. Cut weak shoots back one half, and strong ones one third; but see that you leave a sufficient supply of fruit-buds. Sickly and superfluous shoots should be cut out clean.” DESCRIPTIVE LIST. 1. Bercen’s YELLow.—Very large, orange, red in the sun; flesh yellow, juicy, and fine-flavored. One of the best of yellow peaches, but a poor bearer. Middle of September.—LHllwanger and Barry’s Catalogue. 2. Coottiper’s Favorire.—A most beautiful and excellent peach ; skin white, delicately mottled with red; flesh pale, juicy, and rich; tree vigorous and productive. Middle to end of August.—Z. and B. 3. CrawForp’s Late Metocoron. (Crawford’s Superb.)—Really a superb yellow peach, very large, productive, and good. Last of September.—Z. and B. 4, Karty Yorx.—Medium size; on young, thrifty trees, large, greenish white, covered in the sun with dull purplish red; flesh juicy, rich, and excellent; tree a fair grower and very prolific. Middle of August.—£Z. and B. 5. Large Earty Yorrx.—A large and beautiful variety; white, 5 98 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. with a red cheek; flesh juicy and delicious; tree vigorous and pro- ductive. End of August.—Z. and B. 6. Grorce IV.—Large, white, with a red cheek; flesh pale, juicy, and rich; tree vigorous, and bears moderate crops of the highest quality. End of August.—Z. and B. 7. Grosse Micnonne.—Large, dull white, with a red cheek; flesh pale, juicy, with a rich vinous flavor; a free grower and good bearer. End of August.—JZ. and B. 8. Morris Wuite.—Medium size, dull, creamy white, tinged with red in the sun; flesh white to the stone, juicy, and delicious; tree a moderate bearer; highly prized for preserving, on account of the entire absence of red in the flesh. Middle of September.— E. and B. 9. Otp Mrxon Frerstone.—Large, greenish white and red; flesh pale, juicy, and rich; tree hardy and productive; a standard orchard variety. Middle of September.—Z. and B.— The above have been recommended by the American Pomolog- ical Society for general cultivation. The following additional va- rieties are given by the editor of the Illustrated Annual Register for 1856: 10. Earty Annze.—Small, round, greenish white. Tender, slow prowth—early. 11. Earty Tittorson.—Medium, dark red, juicy, high-flavored. Great bearer. — 12. Cotn’s Earty Rep.—Medium, red, not first quality; tree productive. 13. Earty NeEwineron Frreestone.—Medium, white and red, juicy, rich, fine. 14. Wuirr Imprrtat.—Large, white, juicy, excellent flavor. Fine at the North, often worthless South. 15. Brevoort.—Large, deep red, firm, sweet, rich. —e oe! THE PEACH, 99 16. Barnarpv.—(Yellow Alberge.)—Large, deep yellow, flavor fine; hardy and productive. 17. Jacques’ RareriPe.—Very large, yellow, shaded with red; flesh deep yellow, red at the stone, good flavor. 18. Niverrre.—Large, oval, yellowish green, juicy, melting, and rich. : 19. PrestpEnt.—Large, very downy, yellowish white, with red cheek ; red at the stone, juicy, fine flavor. 20. Rep CHEEK MeEtocoton.—Large, yellow, deep red cheek, juicy, good flavor, 21. Druin Hitt.—Large, roundish, juicy, rich, excellent, late. _ 22. Oty Mrxon Crine.—Large, yellowish white, red cheek, juicy, rich, excellent. 23. Larce Wuirz Ciinestone.—Large, white, red cheek; juicy, sweet, rich, and high-flavored. 24, Otp NEwineton.—Resembles Old Mixon. 25. Lemon Crine.—Large, deep yellow, red cheek, firm, rich, vinous, sub-acid, productive, hardy. 26. Broop Crine.—Large, downy, purplish red; flesh red, firm, good for cooking. 27. Hearn Crmne.—Very large, white, juicy, melting, sweet, rich, excellent. To which are added, to make up a list of fifty of the very best, the following : 28. YELLOw RareriPe.—Large, orange yellow, rich, juicy ; free- stone. 29. Warp’s Latte Freestonr.—Large, sweet, and delicious. 30. Cotumpia.—Large, yellow, excellent, hardy. 31. Prinor’s Rep Rarerire.—Large, yellow, rich, productive. 100 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. —— 32. Hystop.—Large, melting, late, productive; cling. 33. Mattra.—Large, green, delicious. 34. Late ApMIRABLE.—Large, yellow green, juicy, delicious. 35. Vanzanpi’s Supers.—Medium, white, red cheek, juicy, sweet, fine. 36. Watter’s Earty.—Large, white, red cheek, juicy, sweet, fine flavor. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. Scotr’s NonpareEit.—Very large, yellow, fine. Syow Pracu.—Beautiful white—for preserving. Haines’ Earty.—Large, white and red; hardy, productive. OrcHARD QurEEN.—Large, yellow and red, melting—new. Earty Sweet Water.—Medium, tender, rich—for the South. BELLEGARDE.—Large, green, red cheek, juicy—freestone. Royat Grorce.—Medium, white, red cheek, juicy, pro- ductive. 44, 45. 46. 47. 48. 49, 50. SKINNER’S SuperB.—Yellow freestone—-good South. TIPPECANOE.—Large, yellow and red, juicy—clingstone. INCOMPARABLE.—Large cling—good at the South. WASHINGTON Cirntis “Neen, yellow green, juicy, rich. Sr. Lovts.—Large, yellow, good—Western. Smoox.—Large, orange, juicy, rich—freestone. Prince’s Paracon.—Large, freestone, juicy, sweet, rich. b] ) J) b) To the above list might be added perhaps as many more—some of them well tested in different localities and highly recommended, and some as yet but partially tested, but promising well. List of the best ten peaches for a succession at the South, as fur- nished for the Horticulturist by Wm. N. Wuire, of Columbus, Ga. : TEE PEACH. 101 1. Cotumeus June.—Medium, excellent. June 20th. 2. WaLrTer’s Earty.—Bears abundant crops. July 1st. 8. Gross—E Micnonne.—Best freestone known South. July 8th. 4, Crawrorp’s Earty.—One of the best—hardy. Middle of July. 5. Bette pe Breaucatre.—Thrifty—one of the best. Last July. 6. CrawForp’s Latr.—Magnificent, productive. Early in Aug. 7. Newineton Crrmye.—One of the best of clings. August 10. 8. YELLow Branton Crinc.—Best of clings. Reproduces itself from the seed. 9, Wmre Enerisn Crine.—Best for preserving. Very valnable. 10. Boven.—First of October. Best of its season. Freestone. To which add—Zarly York, Early Admirable, George I V Bellegarde, Late Admirable, Late Red Rareripe, President, Lemon Cling, Tippecanoe, and November Cling. The peaches recommended by the N. W. Pomological Conven- tion, at Chicago, are the following: Crawford’s Early, White Cling, Crawford’s Late, Early Bernard, Old Mixon Free, George IV., and Early York, Early Strawberry, La Grange. SOIL. A rich, deep, mellow loam, with a slight admixture of sand, is the very best for the growth and perfection of the peach. A light, sandy soil will produce a fine growth, and generally fair fruit; but trees in such soils are much more liable to the attacks of the peach erub than in other soils. We have seen fine, handsome young trees almost totally destroyed by them in one or two years, while trees but a short distance off, in less sandy soils, were but slightly injured. INSECTS AND DISEASES. Tne Pracn-Worm—above alluded to, is the worst enemy of the peach-tree, It is the larva of a waspish-looking miller or butterfly, 1022 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. which, during the summer, deposits its eggs in the bark of the tree. These soon hatch whitish-looking worms, which make their way between the bark and the wood, and, if permitted to continue their depredations, will seriously injure, and sometimes entirely destroy, the tree. To destroy them, they must be sought out with a knife or other sharp instrument, by cutting away the outer bark, and eject- ing them from their holes, which is easily done. Their presence is almost always indicated by gum, sometimes in large quantities, on the surface, at or about the hole in which the depredator may be found. Dig away the earth from about the root of the tree, a few inches below the surface; and, after scraping off the decayed bark and killing the worms, apply a bucketful of slaked lime or leached ashes, or both. Do not neglect to make a thorough search for the rascals at least once every spring, examining carefully every tree. . The application of lime and ashes is a very effectual means of pre- vention ; put it on in the spring, and allow it to remain till autumn, when it may be spread out to cover the surface for several feet, and worked in with other fertilizers. Some varieties of the peach are subject to the mildew. This may be destroyed by sprinkling with soap-suds, or with an inter- mixture of lime-water and soap-suds. Sulphur has also been applied with success. Tue Yrettows.—This disease in peach-trees has never yet been fully understood. It is mostly considered to have its origin in gen- eral bad management—neglected culture, exhaustion, overbearing, etc. Downrne strongly recommends shortening-in as a prevention, and most pomologists concur in the opinion that long-continued good culture and care are the surest means of preventing this dis- ease. As a remedy, cut down and utterly exterminate all trees that may be attacked; as the disease is a contagious one, and it is better to lose a few trees at the beginning than to run the risk of losing all by delay. Lear Curt.—The disease known as the Curl of the Leaf, by which, in the spring, the leaves will curl up, and finally fall, is occasioned by the puncture of a small insect called the plant louse. A good remedy for this is strong soap-suds, with a decoction of tobacco-juice, applied as soon as the leaves begin to curl. Chapter Gleven. THE PEAR. A coop pear is an exceedingly rich and luscious fruit, and second to none but the apple in importance. Pear culture is as yet in its infancy in many portions of our country—especially at the West and Southwest. This is mainly owing to the prevailing error that it takes from ten to twenty years to pro- cure fruit after planting—and our people are not willing to wait so long. But this is a very mistaken idea. Good fruit, Fig. 44.—Tur Puar. 104 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. in moderate quantities, can be obtained from the plant- ing of the pear, as soon as from the apple, or x p >> x Or >, ff 7 y G Ze HAIN a Q even the peach. VN By A gentleman at aN Albany, N. Y., obtained a fine crop of pears in two years from the nursery, and three from gi the bud, on his sf ‘~ Bartlett, White Fre sia B) \ — i} ie Y - SS i i t; i Ai Say) R S D>) bi Ss Y) . 1 | . \ a ‘i wis g x i Ss SY Wa a S AA 5 a \" Doyenne, and P y) N ALP” / 4 esti fh } My a) y 4 we ve aN ’ Gray Beurre trees; in one eo year longer his “Louise Bonne de Jersey and Beurre Diel trees. fruited finely; and in another, the Vicar of Wink- field. A num- ber of varieties, not only on quince, but on pear stocks, will bear largely in four to six years. The pear re- quires a_ rich, i deep, loamy SSS SE - soil, with plenty Fig. 45.—Dwarr Pear. of lime and the () KN ij ol Pe oes te eR ¥ THE PEAR. 105 phosphates in its composition. These must be supplied by free dressings*of bone-dust and slaked ashes. Whole bones from the slaughter-house will answer where the dust can not be obtained. Iron filings and sweepings from the blacksmith’s shop are very good to be worked in around and about the pear-trees. Working the pear on quince has become quite popular among nurserymen of late years. With some varieties this mode answers well, but with others does not succeed at all. Tomas, in his Fruit Culturist, gives the following list of those which succeed best on the quince: Louise Bonne de Jersey, Buerre d’Amalis, Stevens’ Genesee, Buerre Diel, Vicar of Winkfield, Fortune, Duchess d’Angouleme, Long Green of Autumn, Glout Morceau, Easter Buerre, Early Rousselet, Chaumontelle. He also gives a list of about thirty, which usually succeed equally well on the pear and quince stock. Cultivators should be guarded against relying too much upon this mode of culture. For orchard culture, pear stocks are gener- ally to be preferred. Those on quince roots are not’ apt to be so long-lived—they require more care and skill in pruning, and they also require a far higher culture. Yet there is this advantage with them—they generally come much more early into bearing, many varieties bearing quite freely at two and three years from the nur- sery. The following on that point, from one of the latest as well as the most reliable authorities, is worthy of special attention at this time: “While a very large number of varieties will take, and grow for a year or two finely, there are comparatively few that succeed for a series of years in continued vigor and productiveness, when grown on any stock but that of the pear; and while the cultiva- tion is now very extensive on the quince root, we can not but fear that in eight tenths it will prove unprofitable to the grower; and in the remaining two tenths require equally as much care in sup- plying nutrition and pruning as a system of root-pruning when grown on pear roots. * * * * Orcharding with the pear on the quince, in the manner of most orcharding in this country, will never repay the first cost of the trees; but if trees are selected of Bk 106 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. varieties known to have been long successful, and a system of cul- ture pursued which shall meet the requirements of the fibrous roots of the quince, then may the grower look for profit and pleasure in the result.—Flliott. There can be no doubt, however, but with proper culture and skill in pruning, dwarfing the pear on quince may, in very many instances, be made highly remunerative. In orchard culture, or standard trees, the pear requires nearly La similar pruning to the ap- L> Pye : ple—the main thing being to prevent the branches from becoming too thick. DESCRIPTIVE LIST. OLASS I.—SUMMER. oo” 1, MApELEINE. — Medi- um, smooth, greenish yel- D) low, juicy, melting. Needs fc gs | house-ripening. Erect and vigorous. July. 2. Summer DoyEnNE— (Doyenne d’Ete.)—Small, yellow, red cheek, melt- ing; bears very young. July. 3. OSBAND’s SUMMER.— Medium, yellow, red cheek, sweet, fine flavor, vigorous grower. ty, 4, SKINLESS. — Small, ! yellowish green, juicy, and Fig. 47.—Ospanv’s sweet; vigorous and pro- SuMMEnr. ° ductive. August 1st. AMA A ‘ 5. Broopeoop. — Medi- beet um, yellow russet; melt- ing; moderate growth. August. THE PEAR. 107 ee 6. Rost1zzer.—Small, brownish green, juicy, melting, very sweet, highly perfumed flavor. Last of summer. Fig. 48.-ROSTIEZER. Fig. 50.—Sum- MER FRANOREAL, 4. Tyson. Medium to large, bright yellow, red cheek, buttery 108 THE DIFFERENT: KINDS OF FRUITS. excellent. Vigorous, late in coming into bearing, but grows finely on quince, and bears soon. Last of summer. 8. Brurre Girrarp.—Medium, greenish yellow, tender, juicy, sweet; highly esteemed. August. 9. Dearsorn’s SEEDLING.—Small, clear yellow, melting, juicy; fine quality. Bears young. August. CLASS II.—AUTUMN. 10. Gotpen Brevrre oF Birsoa.—Medium, yellow, fine-grained, buttery, moderately rich. 11. Stevens’ GENESEE. — Large, yellow, rich, good, not first-rate fla- vor. Fig. 51.—STEvEens’ GENFSEE. 12. Burrum.—Medium, yellow, reddish-brown cheek, buttery, sweet, fine flavor; growth erect, strong, healthy; very productive. 18. Anprews.—Medium, greenish brown, juicy, melting; very productive, and bears young. First of September. THE PEAR. 109 SS \ Fig. 53.—KirTLAND. Fig. 52.— BARTLETT. Bs Kiet eae MESS ee NAAN 14. Barriterr—(Williams’ Bon Chretien.)—Large, clear yellow, tender, buttery, sweet; erect and thrifty—bears very young. First of autumn. 15. Kirrranp.—Medium, greenish russet, buttery, melting, high- flavored. 110 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. 16. SeckEer.—Small, brownish green, becoming rich, yellowish brown; sweet, melting, buttery, highly perfumed ; the richest and highest fla- vored pear known. Growth slow, small, very product- ive. 17. FremisH Breaury.— Large, reddish brown rus- set, melting, juicy, sweet, rich, excellent, strong, healthy, productive. 18. Howe... — Large, pale yellow, melting, but- tery; bears very young; always productive. 19. Burrre p’Ansov.— Fig. 64.—SEcKEL. Large, greenish yellow, but- tery, melting, rich, vinous, excellent. Fine, even bearer. Valu- able. | 20. Duonxrss p’ANGOULEME.—Very large, greenish yellow, rather coarse, melting, buttery, juicy. Vigorous—always best on quince. 21. Gray Doyrenne.—Resembling the above, but smaller. 22. Forton.—Small, dark cinnamon, buttery, rich, sprightly, agreeable. Hardy and productive. Valuable. 23. SHetpon.—Large, greenish yellow, russet, juicy, rich, excel- lent. 24. Naportron.—Large, green, yellowish, very juicy, melting. Very productive, thrifty, hardy. 25. Brurre Boso.—Large, deep yellow, juicy, buttery, rich, ex- cellent. A regular, even bearer. 26. AuTuMN Parapise.—Large, yellow orange, melting, but- tery, rich, excellent flavor. 2+ PEARS 111 Fig. 55.—Lovise BoNNE DE JERSEY. 97. LovisE Bonne DE JERrsry.—Large, yellowish green, brown- red cheek, buttery, melting, rich, very productive; grows finely on quince. 112 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. Poe OG. ‘ AA SOON Fig. 56.—ONONDAGA. 28. Ononpaca.—(Swan’s Orange.)—Quite large, rich, yellow, slightly buttery, melting; flavor good, not first-rate. Strong grower, early bearer. Valuable. 29. Beurre Drer.—Large, dull yellow, rich, sugary, buttery, juicy, fine. Best on quince.. THES PEAR: 113 30. Vircarrec. — (White Doyenne, St. Michael, Butter Pear.)—Medium, yellow, fine texture, melting, buttery, rich, excellent; fine market pear. UNM Fig. 57.— VIRGALIEU. CLASS Il].—WINTER. 31. Brurre p’AremBerc.—Large, greenish yellow, melting, juicy, vinous; great bearer, good keeper. Early winter. 32. LAwreNcE.—Medium, yellow, melting, sweet, rich. Good grower, fine bearer. Early winter. 33. Passe Cotmar.—Medium, pale yellow, buttery, melting, sweet. Overbears. Early winter. 84. DoyEenneE D’Hitver.—Large, yellow and brown, melting, but- tery, rich. Vigorous; long keeper. 35. Prince’s Sr. Germarn.—Medium, green and dull red; juicy, melting, fine. Ripens through winter. 114 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. fo E; Ya (ix {GE= Fig. 58.—Vicar OF WINKFIELD. 86. Vicar OF WINKFIELD.—Quite large, pale yellow, reddish cheek, juicy, buttery, good. Ripens late autumn and early winter for about three months, which, witli its productiveness, fine qualities for cooking, and uniformly fair fruit, makes it very valuable. THE PEAR. . 115 Fig. 60.—BrEvrre LANGLIER. Fig. 59.—Giour Morceav. 37. Grour Morcrav.—Large, greenish, buttery, melting, sweet. Early winter. Best on quince. 38. Brurre Lanerier.—Large, pale yellow, slight blush, melt- ing, juicy, rich. Early winter. 39. Easter Brurre.—Large, yellowish green, very buttery, excellent, juicy, first-rate flavor, Ripens in spring. Best on quince. 1146 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. 40. Winter Ne is. — Me- dium, yellow green, russet, buttery, melting, rich, sweet, perfumed. Slender growth, productive. Fig. 61.—Winter NELIs. The above list (with descriptions condensed) is extracted from. Tucker’s Annual Register. The following are described in Et- wancer & Barry’s Catalogue: SUMMER. 41, Amine JoANNET.—On pear and quince, profuse bearer. 42. BEAUPRESENT D’ArtTors.—Productive on quince. 43, CANANDAIGUA.—Good on pear or quince. 44, EnGLIsH JANGONELLE.—Good on quince. 45, KinasEssinc.—On pear or quince. 46, Strirep MapELErne.—Similar to No. 1, only striped. THE PEAR. Li7 47. Muscapine.—Not good on quince. 48. Moyramensinc.—Good on both pear and quince. Fig. 63.—Van Mons’ LEon LE CLERC. 49, RovussELEt Srurraart.—Good on both. 50. Summer Frano ReAt.—Ditto. 118. THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FROUITE. AUTUMN. 51. Beurre Carraumont.—Good on quince. 52. Beurre Superrin.—Bears young. Good on quince. 53. Brurre D’ WatTERLOo.—New—good on quince. 54. Bonne pv’Ezers.—Delicate on quince. 55. GANSsEL’s Bercamot.—Best on pear. 56. Bezi pe Montieny.—Fine on quince. 57. Compre pE Larny.—Bears well on quince. 58. Dunmorre.—Large, fine, very productive. Add the following as new pears which promise well: Soldat Laborer, Beurre Goubault, Beurre Clairgeau, Van Mons’ Leon le Clerc, Manning’s Elizabeth, Doyenne Goubault, Ott, Julienne, Van Assche, Westcott, Duchess of Berry, Bergamotte d’Esperin, Sterling, Jalousie Fontenay Vendee, Josephine de Malines, Beurre Giffard, Ghapter Gwelbe. THE PLUM. Tue plum is a native of this country, and is to be found in great variety, growing wild in many parts of the United States. It is naturally a prolific bearer, producing most generous crops of red and golden fruit, and has been as much improved by scientific propagation and culture as any other fruit. It can be cultivated with much success in a great variety of soils and climates, but of late years has been much neglected, in consequence of the ravages of the curculio—that arch destroyer of all the smooth-skinned fruits. In many instances cultivators have cut down their trees, and given it up in despair, while thousands of others, when plant- ing, have neglected to plant the plum altogether, and devoted their grounds to other fruits. This is wrong; for if only partial crops can be occasionally secured, it will repay the labor and expense, and then many experimenters have an abiding faith that the ravages of this great enemy will yet be arrested. Let every owner of an orchard or garden, however small, plant at least a few of the best sorts, and our opinion is, that an enlight- ened and liberal culture, with a vigilant lookout for the first appear- ance of the enemy, will produce its reward in time. Plums are generally thought to do best in strong, clayey soils— but they thrive in a great variety of soils. Plant in any good soil; but wherever that may be, be sure that it is well drained, and that the tree is liberally supplied with its necessary and proper food. Animal manures and salt are regarded as the best for that pur- pose. These should be applied early in the spring, in the Middle States. Sow a half peck or so of salt under each tree, covering the ground to such a distance as the roots extend. 120 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. ae eae WA VARIETIES. The American Pomological Society recommends the following as being worthy of general cultivation : THE PLUM. 121 2. Cor’s GoLDEN Dror.—Large and handsome, light yellow, with rich, dark red spots; rich, sweet, deli- cious; fair grower, but not an early bearer ; last of Sep. Very valuable, 1. BLEECKER’S Gace.—-Medium size, roundish oval, yel- low, rich, and lus- cious. Tree a fair grower, and product- ive. Last of August. Fig. 65.—BLEECKER’s GAGE. Fig. 66.—Cor’s GOLDEN Drop. 8. Green Gace.—Rather small, round; green, then yellow ; melting, sweet, and rich. Slow grower. 4, LAWRENCE’S Favonire.-—Rath- er large, roundish, yellow green, rich, juicy, melting; valuable. Fig. 67.—GREEN GAGE. Fig. 68,—LAWRENCE’S FAVORITE. 122 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. Fig. 69.—JEFFERSON. Fig. 70.—W AsHInGtTon. —— 5. Frost Gaer.— Small, deep purple, sub- acid, then sweet, very late, hardy; great bearer, 6. JEFFERSON.—Large, oval, golden, purplish cheek, juicy, rich, high- flavored. Slow grower, but prolific. Last of Au- gust. 7. McLaueniwn. — A new plum from Maine. Large, flat, russet yellow, red tinge, juicy, firm, very sweet; remarkably hardy, vigcrous, and productive. Last of August. 8. PurPLE GAGE.— Medium, roundish, violet; firm, rich, sugary, excel- lent. Tree similar to Green Gage. 9. PurPLE Favorire. — —Medium, roundish, brown purple, very juicy, tender, melting, sweet. Slow grower, but hardy and productive. Middle of August. 10. W ASHINGTON.— Very large, green with red; firm, sweet, mild. Free grower and bearer. Last of August. Good in a variety of soils. PEE? TPL Une: 123 11. Reme CraupEe pe Bavay.—Foreign, new, one of the best; very large, roundish, green with red; firm, juicy, sugary, rich. Vigorous and very productive. Middle of September. Fig. 71.—Prrnon’s Iu- PERIAL GAGE. Fig. 72.—Huuine’s SuPERB. Fig. T3—Grnrraut HAnp. Fig. 74.—Rep DIAPER. Fig. 75.—ImMpEriaL OTTOMAN. 12. Smrrn’s OrrEans.—Very large, reddish purple; juicy, vinous flavor. Productive, vigorous. Last of August. 1244 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. To which may be added the following, all of which have been recommended as valuable in certain soils and localities: 18. Denniston’s Supers.—Medium, very productive. Middle of August. 14. Prince’s ImprriaL Gace.—Hardy, productive; superior to Green Gage. 15. Lomparp.—(Bleecker’s Scarlet.)—Thrifty, hardy, productive. Not so attractive to the curculio as others. 16. Mapison.—Good flavor, very late, hardy. Last of October. 17. ImprrraL Orroman.—Early, hardy, abundant bearer. Last of July. 18. Prinor’s YELLow GAcre.—An abundant bearer and good for market. 19. Rep Gace.—Small, good flavor; hardy and vigorous, and an abundant bearer. 20. Saint Marrtin’s.—Good bearer, late. First of October. 21. Scuenrctapy.—Thrifty, hardy, prolific. Last of August. 22. Aurumn Gace.—Slow grower, but productive; medium, yellow. 23. Cor’s Late Rep.—Medium, purplish red; very productive- 24. Downton ImprERatricE.—Medium, pale yellow. Last of September. 25. FELLENBERG. Very productive, late; good for drying. 26. GENERAL Hanp*—Very large, yellow; vigorous and pro- ductive. First of September. 27. Ioxwortah ImMPERATRICE.—Large, purple. October. Will keep till Christmas. 28. Mannine’s Lona Brut Prune.— Large, oval, purple; bears abundantly. September. pe Mh pales og Oe UBL Ge 125 29. Prune p’AcEeN.—New, French, excellent. Last of Septem- ber. Great bearer. 30. Reme CLavupE p’OcroBEer.—Small, green, rich; very hardy. Middle of October. 31. Rivers’ Earty Proriric.imNew, English; medium, excel- lent; very productive, early. 32. Royat Havive.—Medium, purple, new. August. 33. PRIMoRDIAN.—Small, very productive. First of July. 34. HowE.i’s Earty.—Small, sweet, productive. 35. Peach Pitum.—Very large and productive; dull red. 36. Hupson Gacr.—Medium, yellow, rich, excellent. 37. Duane’s PurpPLe.—Very large, showy, and productive. 38. Bryeuam.—Large, deep yellow; productive, valuable. 39. Hurine’s Supers.—Large, oval, excellent; moderate bearer. 40. Brur Prum.—From the South. Productive. Propagated by suckers. 41. Burw’s Favorite.—Large. Last of August. 42. CotumBrA.—Large, valuable for the South. Last of August, 43. EMERALD Drop.—Medium, productive. Last of August. 44, Karty Purrre.—Small, round; good at the South. June and July. 45, ELrrrey.—Very productive, good for drying; succeeds best South. July and August. 46. Jratran DamasK.—Productive, fine South; good in all soils. 47. Lone Soartet.—Medium, red and yellow. Last of August. Fine for jelly. 48. Tuomas.—Large and good; great bearer. September. 126 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. 49. Rep Maenum Bonvum. ductive. Large, beautiful; vigorous and pro- 50. YeLLow Macnum Bonum.—Large, good for cooking; very productive; profitable. Of the above, the following have been tested, and found to suc- ceed well, and have been recommended by leading societies and cultivators in half a dozen States: Bleecker’s Gage, Huling’s Superb, Smith’s Orleans, Coe’s Golden Drop, Imperial Gage, Washington, Frost Gage, Jefferson, Yellow Gage, and Green Gage, Lawrence, Yellow Magnum Bonum. SELECT LISTS. Wa. N. Waits, Esq., of Athens, Ga., has furnished for the Hor- ticulturist the following list of plums, which he regarded as about the only valuable ones in his section of the country: - Sea, or Early Purple, Bingham, Red Magnum Bonum, Prince’s Yellow Gage, Bleecker’s Gage, Blue Plum, Italian Damask, Elfrey, Jefferson, Columbia, Imperial Gage, Chicasaw. Duane’s Purple, Manning’s Long Blue Prune, Best three for a succession : Prince’s Yellow Gage, Imperial Gage, Jefferson. Best six—add to the above: Sea, Elfrey (or Columbia), Red Magnum Bonum. SamMuUEL WALKER, Esq., of Massachusetts, has furnished the fol- lowing list as the best for that region : Green Gage, Washington, Columbia, Purple Gage, Jefferson, Imperial Gage. The following list is recommended by Dr. Brryox te, of Phila- delphia, as suitable for that region: Green Gage, Washington, Coe’s Golden Drop. Lawrence, The following, for heavy soils, is given by A. J. Downrne in the Horticulturist : Imperial Ottoman, Bleecker’s Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop, Yellow Gage, Jefferson, Frost Gage. THE PLUM. 127 TucKker’s Annual Register for 1857 furnishes the following list for Tennessee and other Southwestern States : Lawrence Gage, Jefferson, Coe’s Golden Drop. Barry, in his “Fruit Garden,” gives the following select lists— For the garden : Green Gage, _ Lawrence’s Favorite, Purple Gage, Imperial Gage, Smith’s Orleans, Reine Claude de Bavay, Jefferson, Purple Favorite, Coe’s Golden Drop. For market: Frost Gage, Yellow Magnum Bonum, Smith’s Orleans, Imperial Gage, Red Magnum Bonum, Washington. For drying: Fellenberg, Prune d’Agen, St. Martin’s Quetsche. German Prune, Ghapter Thirteen. THE QUINCE. THE quince is a valuable, but much neglected fruit. It is not eaten raw, which accounts for its being so generally neglected by the majority of people. It is valuable for preserving, and for making marmalades, jellies, etc. It is also good for drying. Quinces should be gathered by hand, and with care, so as not to bruise or indent them, then wrapped in paper, and kept in a cool room. VARIETIES. 1. Apple or Orance.—Large, roundish, golden yellow. Very productive. This is the variety most extensively cultivated for the fruit. Ripe in October.—LHlwanger and Barry. Fig. 76.—Aprir on ORANGE QUINCE. THE QUINCE. 129 2. Portuea. — Lighter color and better quality, but not so good a bearer as No. 1.—£. and B. Fig. 77.—PortueGau. Som, erc.—For the quince a moist soil and shade are very gen- erally recommended; but where a proper quantity of manure is used, and the proper cultivation given, these are not essential. The soil should be deep and rich, and large quantities of barn-yard manure should be mixed with the soil, together with an abundance of salt. Liquid manures are also valuable on the quince. TRANSPLANTING—may be done either in fall or spring, but the the former is generally preferred. Before transplanting, quinces should be freely pruned, cutting back—say one half or two thirds of last year’s growth. The tree should be left with a low head, the stern not more than one or two feet long. Good and thorough cultivation and free manuring will accom- plish more, perhaps, for the quince than for any other fruit. Neg- lect your trees, and your fruit (if so fortunate as to have any) will G* 130 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. be rough and stunted in growth; give them an abundance of food and culture, and they will repay you with a profusion of large, smooth, and golden fruit. Plant ten to twelve feet apart each way. Insrots.—The following remedy for the borer is taken from THomas’ Fruit Culturist: ‘““The borer sometimes proves a formidable enemy. It is the larva of an insect which attacks the wood of the trunk near the surface of the ground, and works inward, usually upward, but sometimes downward, to a distance of several inches into the wood during the summer season. ‘“As the borer frequently destroys the tree, various means of prevention have been resorted to. The remedies described for the apple-borer are found useful. When the insect has once obtained possession, the best method appears to be direct attack. Scrape the soil from the trunk, and cut with a knife lengthwise, and not across the bark and wood, till the insects are found. Repeat the operation once a week for several times, as a part escapes the first examination. Then cover the wounded parts with a mixture of warm tar with ochre or brick-dust.” Ghapter Fourteen. THE RASPBERRY. Tus is one of the best and most wholesome of the small fruits; yet it is seldom cultivated, except in the neighborhood of cities. The few who pretend to grow it in the country, generally neglect it to such an extent that the fruit is hardly worth the trouble to pick; yet it is a fruit that will richly repay a free and generous cul- ture. It deserves to be, and ought to be, in every man’s garden. Make the soil deep and rich. A deep loam or vegetable mold is the best, well drained, and loose and well pulverized. Its habits are about the same as those of the blackberry—hence its culture should be much the same. In transplanting, shorten back the plants to ten inches or a foot, and set them as early in the spring as the season will admit. They should be well mulehed and kept clean of all weeds and grass; from three to five canes may be allowed to grow in each hill; all the least thrifty ones should be cut away. After the fruit is off, or any time before the early spring, all the old canes should be pruned away close to the ground, and also all the less thrifty of the new ones, leaving about four or five to grow and bear fruit the coming season. If more are needed for the pur- pose of transplanting, leave six or eight in a hill, and afterward transplant a portion of them. The stems which are left for fruit should be cut back to three or four feet, and neatly trained to a stake, or tied together to stiffen them. They should be allowed to spread at the top. Many train them against a board or other fence, or an out-house. Several varieties of the raspberry are too tender to withstand the severity of our winters without protection. This may be afforded in several ways. It may be done by bending the canes to the ground, and covering them slightly with earth, being careful to guard against breaking them by being bent too abruptly. They 182 THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF FRUITS. may also be bent down, and covered loosely with straw or leaves, or other litter. The earth should be hilled up against them before bending, in order to prevent breaking. Some cultivators have taken them up in the fall, and buried them through the winter in sand; but this mode is not to be recommended. Raspberries should be renewed every five or six years, as after that they begin to deteriorate. The best varieties of the raspberry are the— 1. Rep Antrwerp.—A large, dark red, rich and juicy berry; admirably fitted for marketing. 2. Fastotrr.—Resembling the Red Antwerp, but richer and softer in texture. Fig. 78.—ReD ANTWERP. Fig. 79.—F ASTOLFF. 3. FRaNooNnIA.—Quite similar, but later, of firm flesh, and is rather hardier than either of the others. 4, YELLow ANTWERP.—Large, conical, excellent, oe tender, and a moderate bearer. 5. Larce-Fruirep Monruty.—Large, red; bears late, and valu- able. 6. Brryoxte’s Oranar.—Regarded by many as the best of all raspberries; vigorous, hardy, productive, handsome, and excellent. —Tucker’s Annual Register, 1857. Loh -BASPBERRY. 133 7. Kwevetr’s Gianr.—Very large, and of fine quality. 8. Con. Witper.—Resembling the latter, but with smaller ber- ries, and much harder stems. Fig. S0.—KNervetr’s GIANT. Fig. §1.—Cox. WI_pEr. There are also several other varieties which promise well, or are highly esteemed by certain cultivators, among which are— 9. Onto Evernearina.—A variety of the native Black, which bears large, good fruit, and ripens its last berries late in the fall. 10. Cusnixne.—Produced by Dr. Brincxiz, of Philadelphia; strong, vigorous, matures early, and will perhaps produce a second crop South. 11. Warxer.—Another of Dr. Brinckle’s. Large, crimson, firm ; keeps well. Also— Vice-President French, Fulton, Gen. Patterson, Mrs. Wilder. —all seedlings produced by Dr. Brincxrs, and all promising well. Many writers on fruits, as well as medical men of the highest standing, agree in recommending the raspberry for its healthful qualities. And as it is a most delicious and agreeable dessert fruit, and can be used in such a variety of ways, its cultivation can not be too strongly recommended. Chapter Fifteen. THE? STRAWBERR Ye Mr. Parpes, in his ‘‘ Strawberry Manual,” says: ‘‘A large crop of strawberries may be expected every year with as much certainty as a crop of corn, and in fact more so; for our directions embrace a protection from drouth, which so frequently happens to the corn crop.” Mr. Downrine says: ‘Ripe, blushing strawberries, eaten from the plant, er served with sugar and cream, are certainly Arcadian dainties with a true paradisaical flavor, and, fortunately, they are so easily grown that the poorest owner of a few feet of ground may have them in abundance.” And Mr. Barry ‘says: ‘‘ Any one who can manage a crop of corn or potatoes, can, if he will, grow strawberries.” In reference to the ease and cheapness with which this delicious fruit can be grown, Mr. Parver further says, that with him the average cost of producing them, during many years, has been less than fifty cents per bushel, and that he has grown on small beds at the rate of 250 bushels per acre. The profits to be derived from their culture may thus be easily conjectured. An article which we find in the Horticulturist for August, 1854, from the pen of its talented editor, Mr. Barry, is so near to our purpose in treating of the strawberry, that we shall take the lib- erty to quote largely from it here. He says: ‘“We will state here, at the outset, that to cultivate the straw- berry successfully is but a simple matter. To grow large, hand- some, fine-flavored fruit in abundance, it is not necessary to employ a chemist to furnish us with a long list of specifics, nor even to employ a gardener by profession who can boast of long years of experience. Any one who can manage a crop of corn or potatoes can, if he will, grow strawberries. We say this much by way of encouragement, because so much has been said in regard to various THE STRAWBERRY. 185 methods of culture, and various applications and specifics, that some people have become persuaded that a vast deal of learning and experience is necessary to produce large crops of strawberries. “Judging from what we have secu, we believe that the great cause of failure is negligence. The strawberry plant—not like a tree, which, when once set in its place, remains there—is constantly sending out shoots (runners) in all directions, taking possession of the ground rapidly around the parent plant. In a short time, therefore, unless these runners are kept in check, the ground be- comes entirely occupied with plants, the parent plants become ex- hausted, and the ground can no longer be stirred or kept in such a condition as is necessary to sustain their vigor. The result is, the ground is covered with a mass of starved and weakly plants, choking up each other in a hard, uncultivated soil, and producing a sparse crop of small, insipid berries, that dry up on their stalks before they are ripe, unless rain happens to fall every day.” Of the necessity of thorough cultivation he adds: ‘“‘ The constant stirring of the soil around the plants is one thing which in our climate is absolutely necessary ; and any system of culture which precludes this, or throws any obstacle in its way, is defective. If any one will examine his strawberry beds, he will find the plants along the outer edges of the beds, where the soil has been kept clean and fresh by the frequent use of the hoe, vig- orous and healthy, with luxuriant dark green foliage, and large, fine fruit; while in the interior of the beds, where the plants have grown into masses, and covered all the ground, so as to prevent its cultivation, they are yellow and sickly looking, and the fruit poor and worthless. This we see in our own grounds, and everywhere that we find plants growing under similar circumstances. Does not this show the necessity of cultivation close around the plants ? No matter how deep we may trench the soil, or how unsparing we may be with manures, or how copiously we supply moisture, this cultivation can not be dispensed with, if we aim at producing fine fruits and abundance of them. ‘But,’ says one cultivator, ‘ by al- lowing the ground to be all occupied with plants, we save all the labor which would be consumed in removing the runners, and we avoid the necessity of applying a mulching to keep the fruit clean.’ Very true, you save some expense; but what do you get in return? fime tse] ae) P This is for close garden culture; but for field culture, where the rows and hills are wider apart, so as to permit the use of the harrow or cultivator, there should be a greater proportion of staminates. ae) ae kos cohiegesinum Sr eee om vale By VORA RRO es Ay Sag Lohans ik inked d¢ pH Pie Bd ys . Co ua > L aa se - t i wy F meets 4 ' x ia vt 4 ul A : i \ . Sores a Bi at ye Bist abr caies? ( Nee . . = SPa-y 4 (77°y 5 I e on us y as = | mn ef ce oS tats eat hy it mulls met sehen N *” S ‘ia - j ‘i a : ‘ iy rT ‘wake BA AO AA PEG ot reg? t i set hes ie ma ss eal tra bl ae a THE CURCULIO. Tuer greatest enemy to the Fruit Garden, and the greatest pest the cultivator has to contend with, in this country, is the CurcuLrio. Wherever he makes his appear- ance, he causes himself to be feared; and although in some localities his ravages have been partially stayed, and himself driven away for a time, yet he is at all times and in all places a most formidable foe. As yet no remedy seems to have been found by which fruit of all kinds can be made entirely secure from his depredations. Some time since, Hon. JAMES MatTuews, of Coshocton, Ohio, announced through the Horticultural Journal that he had discovered a remedy which he believed to be effectual, and which he had taken great care to test before announcing it to the public. This remedy he proposed to submit to the test of a committee to be selected by three leading horticultural societies; and if, after a full trial, this committee de- cided in its favor, he proposed to make it public for a certain consideration. The committee were accordingly appointed—consisting of men of the first standing in the country—and, we believe, the remedy submitted to them; but although two seasons have since passed away, we are not aware that they have ever made a re- port, or even come to a decision on its merits. Mr. Matuews pledges himself that it is cheap, and easily applied ; thus, in case it should be found entirely efficacious, capable of being brought into general use. The expectations of thousands of Fruit-Growers have been raised by the announce- ment of Mr. M.’s remedy, and the result is anxiously awaited. Should it prove to be what is claimed for it, it will be worth millions to the people of this country, and will place Mr. Matuews in the position of a public benefactor. In the mean time, however, experiment after experiment has been made, and many remedies have been announced, some of which are no doubt valuable, and have been partially, if not in some instances wholly, successful. Before proceeding to notice these remedies and preventives, some description of the insect and its workings may be proper. The Curcv io is a small winged insect, about one fourth of an inch in length, when at his full size; his body is dark, and the tips of his wings light, which fold over upon his back. These insects fly, and sometimes crawl into the tree, where hey pierce the young fruit, and deposit therein a small, whitish egg, making a ‘uncture in the fruit about as large as a pin-head, and in the form of a half moon. n about ten days or two weeks these eggs hatch into a white larva or worm, whir emains feeding in the fruit until it causes it to decay and fall. Sometimes, if t: ‘uit has not been punctured until it has attained a considerable size, its vigor ot 7 146 APPENDIX. growth will prevent its falling; but it will be prematurely ripened, and will be use- less, the worm being found in it at maturity. When the decayed fruit falls, this larva leaves it and enters the ground, where it is frequently reproduced the same season, and sometimes not until the following year. Such are their numbers, and such their activity in puncturing the young fruit and depositing the eggs—beginning as soon as it gets the size of a pea, and continuing until nearly ripe—that large crops of plums, nectarines, and apricots are totally destroyed by them. They work generally in the middle and sultry hours of the day, and are mostly found in a torpid state early in the morning or on cool days, and when disturbed will fall to the ground. The remedies for the curculio may be divided into three classes— first: those directed against it while in the chrysalis state in the ground; second: when depos- iting its eggs in the fruit on the tree and third: while in the larva state in the fruit itself. . 1. No precautionary measures can be depended upon to prevent their appearance ; for while one cultivator may succeed in guarding against them, so far as his own premises are concerned, his neighbor may be less careful or fortunate—and as they can fly, he is not secure. Many modes have been resorted to in order to guard against their first appearance. Paving with brick or stone, or even boards, and beating down and hardening the ground, under the trees, have often been practiced, and sometimes quite successfully. 2. There are various modes of getting rid of them when in the winged state. One is to jar the tree, and catch them in sheets or cloths spread under the tree, and then destroy them. This is done in the morning, and should be repeated every morning as long as the fruit remains liable to be attacked by them. Shaking the tree with the hand is not sufficient to bring down all, but a sudden jar will have to be resorted to. Care must be taken not to injure the bark. Another method is to apply the fumes of burned suiphur; this is done by throwing the sulphur upon a hot shovel, or heated iron vessel, and placing it under the tree. Another mode is to sprinkle the tree itself with sulphur, after a rain, and while the leaves and fruit are wet. Lime-water, thrown on with a syringe, has also been used in some instances with good success. The odor from hydro-sulphide of ammonium (mixed with two parts of water, and placed in small phials under each tree) is said to be effectual in driving them away. Powdered lime, thrown upon the tree by the hand, or sifted upon it by means of a sieve attached to a pole, after a rain, or while the dew is on ~ in the morning, has been known to be effectual. A very successful experiment with lime, known to the writer, is worthy of a more minute detail in this place: Mr. James B, Matuews, of Warsaw, Ill., during the season of 1856 tested this remedy most effectually and with entire success. He had some six or eight Chicka- saw plums growing in his garden in a cluster, within a few feet of each other. They . were four or five years old, and were this year well set with fruit. On about one third of the trees he commenced using the lime, while the fruit was yet very young, and before the curculio had “marked it for his own.” On another portion he used none at all, and on the remainder he allowed them to attack the fruit before he com- menced applying the lime. He applied it as often as once a week, or every time it rained, and sometimes on the dew in the morning—covering the tree till it would look white with it—and continued the process until the time of ripening of the fruit. The result was, that on those trees upon which no lime had been sifted, the fruit was entirely destroyed by them, not one being allowed to ripen. ‘On those upon which he had used the lime early, the fruit was not attacked, but grew and ripened finely. While on those which had been attacked before he began to lime the trees, SS a * x fe ty A i S 4 E> eee ae ‘ APPENDIX. 147 they were, after a few applications, entirely driven away, and a portion of the fruit saved. Such is the result of one experiment with lime in one locality ; and it may well be doubted if the experiment of the Ohio Mathews, with his remedy, could have been more successful. Yet one experiment, however successful, is not sufficient; and it is hoped others, in all parts of the country, will make a thorough test of the remedy this season (1557), and give the result to the public. 3. Another remedy is to keep pigs or barn-yard fowls inclosed aniong the trees which are liable to be attacked by the curculio. The first will eat and destroy the larva in the decayed fruit, when it falls; and the last will catch and scare away the flying insect, while in the act of committing its depredations. A Mr. P. 8. Busn, of Covington, Ky., has been very successful with this last mode. The Cincinnati Horticultural Society last season appointed a committee to visit the grounds of Mr. Busu, and report the means resorted to by him to save his fruit. They did so, and from their report we extract the following paragraphs: “The committee found in luxuriant bearing a variety of plums, consisting princi- pally of the Yellow Egg, Emperor, Bolman’s Washington, Blue Gage, and Bleeck- er’s Red Gage. Never, perhaps, in the recollection of any of the committee was such a sight of loaded branches presented to the eye; and with one accord, they seemed to think the day had not gone by when we should forever fail to have this delicious fruit in all its magnificent perfection. Upon a close examination, it was soon found by the committee wherein consisted the pre-eminent success of Mr. Bus in this peculiar branch of horticulture. His trees are mostly in close contiguity to his residence, and in such a situation as that they are passed and re-passed every hour in the day by the inmates of the house, as well as the fowls of the yard. Two of his trees are within a high paling inclosure, in which is also erected a chicken- house. Upon these the fowls are allowed to roost at night, and are constantly under the trees during the day. “Mr. Busu also called attention to the fact that some of his neighbors had the same varieties of trees, of the same age, planted remote from the house, in lawns and vegetable gardens, but were entirely without fruit. “The committee are most clearly of the opinion that there is no plan heretofore adopted so successful for the propagation of the plum as to have the trees planted within an inclosure where the fowls are made to run and to roost. The size of the yard must, of course, depend upon the number of fowls in general kept by the pro- prietor. Trees planted in near proximity to the kitchen, or any part of the house most frequented and passed, would reward the owner with a large supply of fruit. As both positions must necessarily be more or less circumscribed, it might be well to profit by the two situations suggested by Mr. Busx to the committee. “That chickens and plums should go together is an opinion the undersigned have not the least hesitation in expressing their entire confidence. The ‘Grand Turk,’ as the curculio is quaintly styled by some writers, can not be bought, begged, coaxed, or killed, but may be frightened off. He seems to be a sort of politician, more afraid of shadows than the substance.” As no war was ever carried on with more determined energy than that now waging against the “Turk,” the common enemy of all Christian and civilized peo- ple (for all such are presumed to be lovers and admirers of good fruit), if may rea- sonably be anticipated that the “‘ good time is coming” when a brilliant victory will be achieved, and the enemy beaten back. Until then, let us urge all to plant—plant plums, plant nectarines, plant apricots—planf all the varieties of fruits, as weil those that are subject to the attacks of the curculio as those that are not. 148 APPENDIX. PRESERVING FRUITS. GATHERING and preserving fruit after it is grown is an important branch of domes- tic economy. It is folly to expend money and time in the planting and cultivation of fruit, and then allow it to go to waste for the want of proper care and manage- ment. Appizs.—All kinds of fruit should be carefully picked from the tree by hand, holding the branch or limb in one hand, and carefully picking, one by one, the fruit with the other. This should always be done in dry weather, and they should not be allowed to get wet after picking, but should be removed as picked to some cool, dry place—barn, shed, or other out-house—and placed in convenient piles, where they may remain two or three weeks. Apples should be picked in baskets, and carried in them to the place of deposit, and should there be taken out separately by the hand, as they were placed in it; in no case should they be poured upon the fioor, as they will thereby become more or less bruised. After lying as above for two or three weeks, they are ready for packing. In all cases, whether for foreign or domestic market, or for home consumption, they should be carefully assorted, keeping the different varieties—the large and the small, the sound and the unsound, sweet and sour, ete., all separate. If they are to be barrel- ed, select good, new, and clean barrels, and pack carefully by hand. Bran, ehopped straw, oats, saw-dust, and powdered charcoal have all been used for packing, and are all doubtless valuable. The latter is no doubt the best, and will keep fruit the longest ; but it is also the most costly and the least easily obtained. In packing, use first a layer of charcoal, or whatever the material may be, then a layer of apples, then again of charcoal, and so on, taking care not to permit the fruit to touch the barrel or each other. As soon as packed, carefully head up, mark, and deposit in the place where they are to remain. When thus packed, apples will bear a very cold atmosphere; and it is desirable to keep them at all times in as cold a place as possible without freezing. A dry and cool cellar is perhaps as good a place as can be usually obtained for keeping apples in the winter. I Bins, or shelves, may also be provided for keeping fruit, when it is inconvenient to put them in barrels. These should be suspended or placed upon posts in the middle of the cellar, or away from the walls, so as to protect them as much as pos- sible from dampness, and in order to give them a free circulation of air. The saw- dust or cut straw may be very properly used in packing them away in these bins. Apples thus packed away should be occasionally examined, and all the decaying ones removed. PEACHES, when ripe, are of such a perishable nature that it is extremely diifli- cult to keep them for any considerable length of time, except by packing in ice or excluding them entirely from the atmosphere. The former method has been some- times practiced for the purpose of transporting them to warm climates; but it is at- tended with so much trouble and cost as to prevent its ever being brought into general use. The latter has of late years been much better undersiood, and is suc- cessfully practiced in all parts of the country. The process is simply in excluding the air, and then hermetically sealing the ves- sel containing them. Tin canisters, six to cight inches long, and four or five wide, APPENDIX. 149 are mostly used ; but large-mouthed glass bottles are also good, and in one respect better, as the condition of the fruit in them may at all times be seen through the glass. Select fruit that is just ripe and in good condition, free from all bruise or speck of decay. Some put them in whole, after rubbing off the down with a wet cloth. Others pare and cut them in quarters, taking out the stone. Fill the canisters, and afterward carefully solder on the top, in which a hole about as large as a small pin- head has been previously punctured. Then set them in a vessel of boiling water, and keep them there until the temperature of all the fruit in the cans has reached as high as the water. As long as it is below that, air will continue to escape through the hole, and will cease as soon as that point is reached. Then close the hole by placing a drop of solder upon it, and remove the canister from the water. If the operation has been successful, the ends of the canister will become depressed after cooling, caused by the outside pressure of the atmosphere; and, if the canister has been well made and the soldering perfect, the fruit will be kept from decay for an indefinite period. If glass bottles are used, they should be filled, and then set in cold water, and be brought to a boil gradually, as the glass will otherwise crack. Well-fitted corks should be first prepared ready for use, and a cup of sealing-wax, melted, close at hand. As soon as the air has been sufliciently excluded, press in the cork until it is even with the mouth of the bottle, and dip it hastily, bottom upward, into the sealing-wax, thoroughly covering the whole. Then set away to cool. ‘STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, CHERRIES, CURRANTS, GOOSEBER- RIES, and, in fact, all the small fruits, of whatever name, are successfully preserved in this way at the present day, and are sold in all the fruit-shops. Tue following method of preserving small fruits—or, indeed, any kinds—has been practiced successfully : ‘‘ Lay the ripe fruit in broad dishes, and sprinkle over it as much sugar as it would need in cooking it. Then set it in the sun, or a moderately heated oven, until the juice forms a thick syrup with the sugar. Pack the fruit in tumblers, and pour the syrup over it. Paste writing paper over the glasses, and set them in a cool, dry place. Peaches must be pared and split, and cherries stoned. Preserved in this manner, the fruit retains much more of its natural flavor and healthfulness than when cooked.” GRAPES are said to keep well put away in the following method: “Take a well- bound cask, from which the head is to be removed, and place at the bottom a good layer of fine saw-dust or bran. On this place a layer of grapes, then each alter- nately, until the cask is full, taking care that there is sufficient bran between each layer of grapes to prevent their touching each other. Put on the head, which is to be cemented, and the grapes will keep well for a year. When used, in order to restore their freshness, cut the stalk of each bunch and place it in wine, as flowers are placed in water.” PROFITS OF FRUIT-GROWING. TuE following statement, prepared by a very intelligent and reliable fruit-grower in Illinois, will answer for almost any locality throughout the Great West, as serving 150 APPEN DTA: to show the cost and profit of the culture. It should be borne in mind that this statement embraces apples alone Deacon A. Scarborough, of Payson, Adams Co., Ill., being in St. Louis, in the spring of 1839, purchased forty apple-trees of one year’s growth, of an Ohio nursery- man who was there with trees, the largest not being more than three feet in height. These, with some twenty others obtained from a different source, were planted on a piece of dry, rolling prairie land, with an eastern aspect. About fifty of the whole number grew, and although many of these were not what they purported to be, still there were some good varieties among them. In the spring of 1841 he added to his orchard some fifty trees more (of one year). In 1844 and 1845 still more, about one hundred (of two years). In 1848, 1849, and 1850 about one hundred and ten. Some of these were used from time to time to fill vacancies which had occurred. The following concise statement will show the cost up to this time, Jan., 1855, viz. : 1889—60 trees, at 25 cents each......... .... BNO Deas, 5 UAB Rene Joa eet: ar o $15 00 Allowance for freight and planting, 10 cents each Interest on the above, $21 for 16 years, at 10 per cent. per annum 33 60 1841-5 0itrees wat 164 eneb iti Fo 25 oe eae J claetete hs ae diese, srenaiate seoeieeneiens 8 33 8 33 Allow for procuring and planting, 10 cents each................ 5 00 Interest on $13 for 14 ‘years, 10per Cent... .. 6... c anne vies sine 18 20 1844—50 trees, at 12} cents....................0.. On ce eae 625 6 2 Procoring and planting, 10 cents... 2 2. Sees ceca ence neers 5 00 Interestion the sllifor dl years we. afecscce ae m ieee lee 12 10 1S4D——DOMERA Abid Se CONS. cy. seinisnde re nciaseieis ote acm eels msiemeele s eneieke 625 6 2 Procuring and planting, 10 cents......... 2.0. .--0 nee eee eee ee 5 00 MNtErEsE AS AVOVEr EL. LO"VCANS ccs. 5s co cysje'e tnarelamicctnie ee wre enue rete 11 10 In 1848-9, and 1850, say 49, 110 trees at 124 cents............. 18 75 13 75 Procuxing andsplanting 2 .)isnigeee tease Ge Sale bleh oe wanna 10 00 Interestion $22 Vowor f WOAars ..<% o2.~.<) 106 =o cisess1- eae eet sees 16 62 Now I allow for rent of land $1 per acre per annum (being half the usual rent, as the crops raised in the orchard, other than apples, have not more than paid for cultivation and rent of ground, and much of the present orchard has only been a few VOarsuplanted) i. meas seine ole esieiete Asleleleielisiie ples eteitelie == eee ere 60 00 I allow for loss of trees by accident, ete ............220.s.s-0e. 18 00 OLAS Ss oe es aD Sha idi dees wh dua sees damaheseme snus seuhienne $250 20 $49 58 From the facts above given, it appears that the whole cost of the orchard up to this time, January, 1855, including purchase of trees, ample allowance for procuring and planting, loss of trees by accident, interest on the whole, and rent of land will amount to $250, while the money actually paid in their purchase is only $49 58. Now, as an offset to the cost, we shall show the produce. The apples (winter) having been measured and noted down, with the price at which they were, or might have been, sold for cash: 1846—Thirteen bushels, worth one dollar per bushel................-e.ee05- $13 00 1847—Fourteen ‘ s OS aA A eer i ase pt 14 00 1848—One hundred bushels §¢ Sof de ea cit lee ae aa ie, 100 00 1849—T wo hundred and fifty bushels, at 75 cents..........00 see ceccecnsces 187 50 1850—Fifty-eight bushels at one dollar............... ouelg welsh intense rel tee were eins os 58 00 1851—F orty ee $C SINE TENS Aide eae scl a areineieees eee eee 40 00 1852—Seventy-five “ LOU OS aes near ONO re iGoa ded onalicncaaes: 75 00 1853—Seven hundred bushels, at 45 cents.........-.cccccccccsccccscccccaes 815 00 TSO ——HIVe-DHBNIS, Ab aL OU tc cciecteie etre iea > ossue'eis eins ected efote spe thaterseiey aie are 7 50 otal: so seeeworen tow steed ie cs Seeuebaccowab oe eee ae paints, #. ....-$810 00 The above does not include any of the summer fruit, of which there is a good quantity, nor the autumn, that may not properly come under the description of early winter, and which I will estimate at one fourth its value: APPENDIX. 151 Which will make 313 bushels, worth say 40 cents, which will give.......... $125 00 MotberaddedMo thea wove, ian. ce) seidicae ss slice elas wie nies atyaticieiebe ns ete 935 00 And now, if we add the product of 1855, 1,200 bushels, 1,000 of which were sold and delivered last fall, out of the wagons, at 50 cents................ 500 00 Remaining on hand at least one hundred dollars worth.................... 100 00 We have as the product up to this time, January, 1856.................... $1,535 00 Whole product of orchard up to January Ist, 1856..................00002- 1,585 00 To which, if we add the interest on the money accruing from sale of fruit, prior to 1855, it will bé more than three hundred dollars, which, however, I shall let go as an offset for picking and marketing. iDhenipiejaccoun t stands: Cost, Of (LEeOs ai. cic «cis oseyelis ie aise oe res iaie wforsixiels $49 58 Procuring, planting, loss of trees, and interest of money........ aisyeroratge tes tale 140 00 em ata alk os ee cks e ay Jott oUeamenneo ch Gocco HebC SondeGE 60 00 $249 58 Orchardiproduct upto SamUarys SOG i. icyaracs-aiaivie oictelesaua'e Sicleisiniasiatesioeaien Arie 1,535 00 PUCMU HOM AP PS PLOAUEL: Seo weo cles anrews celts ceases nsset sans ta aoa $1,285 42 So much, then, is certain; but how shall we value the orchard itself, with its increasing products—especially as one half of the trees have scarcely borne any fruit yet, and these are all of the best varieties. I acknowledge myself unable to justly estimate its value—as the experience and results of the past seventeen years will hardly give us an idea of what it will produce during the next seventeen, much less give us a rule by which to calculate the future produce. The orchard contains six acres of ground, and has on it two hundred and sixty-six apple-trees. Yours, Payson, ApAms Co., ILL., 1856. Wa. STEWART. MODE OF PROPAGATING FRUIT-TREES. Many persons are so situated, remote from nurseries, that it is extremely difficult to procure good varieties of fruit-trees for transplanting. To all such the following mode, practiced by Mr. Trmotuy Duprey, of Mendon, Adams Co,, Ill., may be of benefit. As a mode of grafting, we do not see why it may not be as good as any other. We copy from the Patent Office Report of 1848: . “In the spring of 1839 I bought one hundred seedling apple-trees for eight dol- lars, and paid in work. I planted them out in my garden, in rows four feet apart, that I might run a plow between them, and at five feet apart in the rows, and kept them well cultivated that season. ‘*Tn the spring of 1840, in the early part of March, I wet Ree from the best orch- ard I could find (John Wood, Esq., Quincy) two or three large bundles of scions, cut from horizontal branches of last year’s growth. These I buried in my garden three inches under ground until I should want them. When the season was so far advanced that the buds on the trees began to crack open and the small leaves to appear, I dug a trench along each line of apple-trees, about six inches deep, and about the same width. I then bent down an apple-tree, and with a forked stick drove into the ground, held it there firmly ; then, with a sharp-pointed strong knife and a hammer I commenced grafting. First, I drove the knife through the tree 152 APPENDIX. near the root, and made a cleft large enough to insert my scion. I then with a sharp knife cut my scion about six inches long, sharpened the lower end to a wedge- like form, drove it into the cleft until the bark on the scion just met the bark on the tree, pulled out my large knife—the split in the tree of course closed up and held my scion fast. In five or six inches I stuck in another, and continued on so until I came to the top of the tree. I then filled up the trench with fine, loose soil, tram- pling it down with my feet, leaving only the upper bud out of the earth. The top of the tree I covered up in the same way, leaving the ends of the twigs just out of the ground. In this way I treated my one hundred apple-trees, and in two days’ time I had finished them. I would remark that the trees were about one and a half inches in diameter, and very thrifty. The scions grew astonishingly well. Of about 800 scions set, all grew but about two; and in two years the scions had formed roots of their own, so that when I took them up IJ broke off the old stalk and threw it away, and each twig of the top grew and formed roots of its own. Thus, by a little induss try and management, I made 200 grafted trees for my own use, now bearing trees, and sold 1,000 trees, some for six to the dollar, and some at eight to the dollar. ‘There is probably no food more natural to mankind than a good, ripe apple. It is anti-dyspeptic and anti-bilious; and if the people in this great valley of the West would eat less corn bread and bacon, and ¢rink less strong coffee and whisky, and eat more of those rich, juicy apples, cooked or uncooked, we should see, hear, and feel less of those bilious complaints—fevers, agues, and chills—which every one is more or less subject to every season. Timotuy DUDLEY. Menpon, IL1. [It should be borne in mind—an important fact, too, which Mr. DupLEy omitted to state—that the trees which grew from the twigs at the top were natural fruit, of the same character as the original seedling; while those from the scions inserted along the body of the tree, were, of course, true to the graft.] PROPAGATION OF FRUIT-TREES BY LAYERING. THE mode of propagating fruit-trees, especially apples, by luyering, has been successfully practiced by Mr. Jonn Suiarer, of the St. Albans Nursery, Hancock Co., Ill. Mr. Stater has been selling trees propagated in that way for ten or twelve years past; and it is within the writer’s knowledge that some as fine-bearing and thrifty apple-trees as can be found in that part of the State were produced in that way. Itis believed, however, that the mode is not popular with a majority of nur- serymen—for what reason it might be hard to determine. But without entering into a discussion of the question whether it or grafting is the better mode, we have thought proper to give in this place a short description of it, for the benefit of those who reside at points remote from nurseries. St. AtBans, Dec. 24, 1856. Tu. Greec, Esa.—Dear Sir: Your favor of the 17th inst. came to hand by the last mail. You request me to give you my mode of propagating fruit-trees by lay- ering. As my present mode is very different from that with which I commenced, perhaps I had better give you a brief history of my experience in the business. About fifteen years ago I became convinced that a choice fruit-tree growing upon APPENDIX: 153 its own roots would generally be more likely to be long-lived, and bear better fruit, than if the same variety were grafted or budded on to an uncertain seedling stock. I then commenced layering in my nursery, according to the best directions that I could get from horticultural works. This mode was to bend down the lower limbs of graits, and cover a part of the limb from four to six inches with earth; and at the place where the limb was covered deepest, to cut it about half off on the under side, and split it about an inch from the cut, toward the end of the limb. The end of the limb turned up was to form the tree; and as the descending sap was stopped at the cut, it would force out roots; and when it was sufficiently rooted, it was cut from the tree and re-set in the nursery, to be cultivated till it was large enough to be transplanted to the orchard. In this way I commenced layering the greater part of my varieties; but it was too slow a mode of raising trees, and I then began my present mode of layering the whole tree. Waving in the above way got layer trees from the most of my varieties, I took these trees and buried them in trenches from eight to ten inches deep, and turned the ends of all the limbs up, so as to have them come just out of the ground. In this way they will take root without having the limb partly cut off, and in two to three years will be of sufficient size to transplant to the orchard. We not only get trees from the limbs that are turned up, but there will be more or less shoots come up from the roots of the buried tree, which will make good trees. On account of these shoots that come from the root, it is very desirable to have layer trees for stock to begin with, where the whole tree is to be buried. For if a grafted tree is used for layering, the shoots from the seedling root will be likely to make a mixture of seed- lings with the varieties cultivated. But with sufficient care, this kind of tree may be used for layering on a small scale. I have succeeded well in layering apples, pears, plums, and cherries; but with the peach, nectarine, and apricot I prefer budding. Layering may be done late in the fall or early in the spring, but should be on dry ground. There is still another way of growing fruit-trees on their own roots, which may be more convenient for those who only wish to raise trees for their own use. Mr. Downrn¢, in his work on “Fruits and Fruit Trees” (ith edition, p. 17), says: “ Dr. VAN Mons, a distinguished horticulturist of Belgium, considers the practice of grafting on small pieces of roots as the most complete of all modes, with regard to the perfect condition of the grafted sort, because the lower part of the scion, being thus placed in the ground, after a time it throws out fibers from that portion» and so at last is actually growing on its own roots.” But in the common mode of root-erafting the scion is inserted in the end of the root, and when the tree is taken up at three years old, there will be but a small portion of the roots from the scion, so that if the seedling part of the roots be all cut off, there will not be enough left to make the trees grow well when transplanted in the orchard. I have, therefore, when under the necessity of grafting, cut my scions about six inches long, and in- serted them into the middle of a piece of root (the first cut of a one-year-old seed- ling is the best), about four inches long, so that the graft when set is like an inverted T. This graft is set so deep that the end of the scion comes just to the top cf the ground ; and when taken up at three years old, they generally have sufficient roots from the graft, and from the manner in which the scion was set in the root, the seedling roots are easily distinguished from those which shoot out from the graft, and can be cut off, and then the tree, like the layer tree, will be nourished wholly by roots of its own variety. This kind of grafting can be done in the winter, and the grafts packed in the cel- lar in boxes of earth; or it may be done in the spring, and the grafts planted at once ed 4 154 APPENDIX. s in the nursery. Grafts set in this way need no waxing, and if the root be one fourth of an inch thick, they will be sufficiently firm without tying. The above are the best modes with which I am acquainted of propagating the different varieties of fruit-trees on their own roots. Respectfully yours, JOHN SLATER. MISCELLANEOUS. A Srraw Hovsrt rox Keeping Fruits AND VEGETABLES.—We think it was Soton Rogsinson who recommended a plan something like the following for keep- ing fruits and vegetables. The building is easily made, and is composed of mate- rials which almost every farmer has in abundance, and when properly built is as good as the best for the purpose intended. The materials used need be only straw and rails. Build a rail pen of the required size, say one rail wide and two rails in length. This may be,done by setting posts in the ground at the corners, and nailing or pin- ning the rails to them. Make it seven or seven and a half feet high. Outside of this pen, at a distance of four feet, make a similar pen, in the same manner and of the same materials—constituting one rail pen within another, with a space of four feet between them. Within this space pack well with straw until it is brought even with the top of the pen. Then cover entirely across the whole with straw, to any required height, rounding it at top like a stack or rick—first running poles across at convenient distances, on which the straw may rest. A door (which should be dou- ble—one for each pen) may be made at one end for entrance, formed of boards, and fitting closely, to keep out the frost; or, if preferred, an aperture only may be left in the straw, sufficiently large to admit a man’s body, and which may be closed by a bundle of straw, properly fitted in, to be taken out when necessary. In this way as good a fruit-house as is possible to be procured may be built at a very little cost, and with materials such as can be most cheaply obtained; and, if built strongly and securely, will last for half a dozen years or more. It must be in- closed, to keep it from being eaten up by cattie ; and the straw must be well packed, and properly rounded at top, in order to turn the water. Outwardly, it will resem- ble a rick of straw. The ground selected should be dry, and a trench should be dug outside of the house, to prevent the water from soaking under. Pumpkins and squashes, and all kinds of vegetables, as well as fruits, may be kept in such a house better than in most cellars, as it will be cool and dry. In the West, where straw is allowed to go to waste in large quantities, arel where cellars are not always to be obtained, a few days’ labor will secure one of these straw houses, which, if properly built and protected, will last for years, and will be found indispensabie. Dwarring.—One of the principal advantages in planting dwarf trees is the facil- ity with which a number can be grown in a small space—they can be readily man- aged at a distance of eight feet apart. Thus, a spot of ground sixty feet square will hold sixty trees, planted as in the following diagram, between the trees: ALP END LX 155 § 0200, BY er Ciel 'e wie) G 6)8 4) 6 ee. 0\ 0)" 5,00) 6 0) 6b ee a eles 0 ve oe 8 8) e[sj eke! mim) (mj hh eee la csifa) e's! ulin) Wun) 0| ||). a mle 01a 60/9 ee ace oe ©, 6. aime els)©) she anew, aXm)@)e\'m aia) ee. 0, 6) eo) 0b) « a s'm (ale) whe 0 0818 i ie re a i ry Currant, gooseberry, or raspberry bushes may be set, as represented by the small dots, and rows of strawberries set as indicated by the dotted lines. The expense of preparing the soil, furnishing, and planting, as shown in the figure, would not ex- ceed $60, a sum which the small fruit alone would realize in three years after plant- ing, at which time we may safely average the crop of pears at from ten to fifteen bushels of fruit of first quality, worth at the very lowest calculation three dollars per bushel. When we further consider that the quantity of fruit will be annually in- creasing, the profit of such an investment is sutliciently apparent. GERMANTOWN, Pa. Wa. SAUNDERS. Curtines.—A French writer describes a mode of making cuttings grow, which he says is unfailing. He digs a trench wide enough to receive both ends of the cut- tings, which he places in a bent position, the ends pointing downward, and covers entirely with well-pulverized soil. The middle of each cutting must be just even with the top of the ground, and must have a bud or small shoot left at that point. They should be planted in the spring, and well mulched and protected from drouth. In this way grapes, roses, quinces, and even apples, pears, plums, and apricots can be readily obtained. But unless protected throughout the whole season from drouth by a judicious mulching and watering, they will inevitably perish before the roots are sufficiently grown to protect them. Scions, from which it is intended to take buds, should have their terminal point pinched off about a week before it is intended to use the buds. This process gives them a greater plumpness, and increases their activity in starting into growth. Goop Apvyicz.—‘ Farmers, plant trees. Good winter apples and pears will yet form an important item in our yearly exports. The smaller fruits will go out in cans, and any quantity may readily be sold in the European markets. Fruit-grow- ing will yet supersede pork-growing; and all like good fruit much the best to eat.” —Life Iliustrated. CnorprD Straw has been recommended as a most excellent mulch for the strawberry ; but a mixture of saw-dust with it would doubtless make it better. The straw alone would probably be too light and open. Tur PrEAcu is by some cultivators in the Southern States sometimes grafted ine stead of budded, with fine success. It is said to answer well where the growth is very rapid. It is done in November and December. To Drstroy Morzes.—Take one pound bean meal, three ounces slaked lime, half ounce powdered verdigris, and four ounces essential oil of lavender ; mix thoroughly 156 APPENDIX. ? with a little water into a dough, make little balls, and place them about their holes. They may be driven off also by placing bits of codfish in their holes.—Cor. [ort. A Goop Mops of watering large trees is to draw the earth away from the roots to a convenient depth, forming a hollow into which water may be poured until it is filled. After it has fully soaked away, then replace the earth as before. Another good mode is to dig a small trench around the tree, at a distance of, say three or four feet, and into this pour water until it is filled, and when soaked away, fill back the earth to its place.— The Papers. [But let it be remembered that when good cultivation and good mulching have been practiced, watering is never neces- sary, except in extreme cases.—EDITorR. | CABBAGES may be preserved well and nicely during the winter, by cutting off the heads, and then packing closely in a barrel or box, and filling all the spaces with chaff or bran—then keep in a dry cellar. Gas Tar, applied by means of a swab, is said to destroy the caterpillar instantly. Bury Drap Anrmats in the soil where fruit-trees are to be planted, especially pears. ° How To Srecurt Goop Fruir Croprs.—The Agricultural and Horticultural Soci- ety of Vaucluse recommends that in order to insure a large crop in fruit-trees, the following plan should be adopted: A hole must be dug round the tree to a certain depth in the autumn, but not deep enough to expose the roots, and must then be filled up with manure; the manure should be left until frozen, and then be covered with the earth extracted. Thus covered over, the manure does not thaw until a late period, and thereby prevents the tree from budding early, and produces the effect intended. The same society further makes known that it is a well-ascertained fact that trees which yield most fruit are those whose branches grow horizontally, instead of vertically, and it therefore recommends that trees should, so far as possible, be trained to grow in that direction; it even declares that by such training, trees that have never yielded any fruit previously may be made productive. Quinces should be manured in November. Fork in five or six shovelfuls of fresh stable manure under each tree, and in the spring dig around each tree, and spread broadcast a good supply of salt—enough to nearly cover the ground. Prune in the fall, cutting away only the decayed or decaying and unsightly branches. Buiack Knot.—Wm. H. Reap, correspondent of Horticulturist, ascribes this dis- ease in plums to the fact that dried plwms, which have decayed on the tree, by the ravages of worms or insects, have been allowed to remain there; and that thence, when this fruit is consumed, they perforate the bark, which has always been satu- rated with the poison and juice of the decayed fruit, and thus these deadly juices, together with the action of the insects, produce the disease known as the Black Knot. His remedy is to take away and destroy the decaying fruit as fast as it appears. BLIGHT IN A VINERY.—The English Gardener’s Chronicle gives an interesting account of blight being arrested in a vinery, after all other means had failed, by the application of the fumes of burned sulphur. The application was made daily. Soap-Sups.—A. J. Downing says: “I have seen an Isabella Grape produce 3,000 fine clusters of well-ripened fruit in a single season, by the liberal use of manure and soap-suds from the weekly wash.” Se iene: =) FEE IEE NT RO ee AP it A ae Se. Pe ree ee owe APPENDIX. 157 To Maxr YounG PreAr-TrEES Grow.—I was afllicted by the sight in my garden for four or five years of the most luxuriant and thrifty young pear-trees, which would not bear, but all their strength ran to wood. Vexed at this, I resolved to try the effect of bending down the branches so as to check the flow of sap, and cause hem to form fruit-buds instead of wood-buds. Accordingly, the first week in De- cember I filled my pockets with stout twine; I drove down some small pegs into the ground beneath my trees (which had branched low, so as to make dwarfish heads); I then tied a string to the end of every long shoot, and gradually bringing down the end of the limb till it curved down so as to make a considerable bend or bow, I fastened it in that position, either by tying the cther end of the string to the peg, or to another branch, or to a part of the trunk. According to my expectation, the tree next year changed its habit of growth, and set an abundance of fruit-buds. Since that I have had plentiful crops of fruit with- out trouble—take good care not to let many branches go on the upright system.— Cor, Hort. SEVEN Eigutus or AN Acre.—I have just seven eighths of an acre of land where Ireside. Upon it there is a small but comfortable dwelling-house, wood-house, carriage-house, smoke-house, and barn; a wood-yard, barn-yard, and a lane five rods long from thence to the road; also a front yard, four by six rods. By this time, perhaps, the reader is about ready to say, Well, this about occupies your seven eighths of an acre. But I also have a garden upon the same seven eighths of an acre, from which I raised the summer past all the onions, squashes, cucumbers, to- matoes, potatoes, sweet potatoes, sweet corn, asparagus, pie plant, beets, musk-mel- ons, beans, peas, and cabbages, that were wanted for my family use (a family of six persons, besides working-men) during the time of using garden sauce. And, after the maturity of the crop gathered fcr fall and winter use, half a bushel onions, seven bushels potatoes, four bushels sweet potatoes, half a bushel sweet corn, and fifty- nine cabbage-heads. i IT have a small nursery also upon this seven eighths of an acre, consisting of over 2,000 trees, mostly of fine size for transplanting, comprising apple, peach, pear, plum, cherry, quince, and grape trees. During the time of feasting we have had raspberries, gooseberries, and currants, almost without measure—bushels of each. Cherries, peaches, plums, pears, grapes, and apples have been used as free as water —how many I ean not tell. I have sold from the same seven eighths of an acre trees to the amount of $74 08. Fruit for cash—cherries, $5 35; peaches, $13 93 ; pears, $5 50; plums, $7 50; quinces, $2 00, and grapes, $5 75, making in the aggre- gate #115 12. I have put thirty bushels of choice winter apples in my cellar, and, to finish off the list, have cut from four hundred to five hundred pounds of good hay. This is a correct statement of seven eighths of an acre of land in Richfield, Sum- mit Co., Ohio.— Cor. Lowisville Journal. Liguip Manure.—For fruit, the proper time for using liquid manure is when the fruit is beginning to swell, and has acquired, by means of its own green surface, a power of suction capable of opposing that of the leaves. At that time, liquid ma- nure may be A work for beginners. 30 c. Practicn or Water-Cure. By Drs. Wilson and Gully, A handy, popular work. 30c. PrrenaNncy AND CHILDBIRTH 5 Water-Cure for Women, with cases, 30 cents, Resutts or Hypropatuy; treating of Constipation and Indigestion, By Ed- ward Johnson, M.D, 87 cents. Water-CurE Lisrary, em- bracing the most important works on the subject, In seven large 12mo vols. A fam¥y work. $7. W ater-Cursk In Curonic Dis- EASES ; an exposition of the Causes, Progress, and Ter- minations of Various Chronic Diseases. By Dr. J. M. Gully. Animportaut work. $150. WATER AND VEGETABLE Dirt in Scrofula, Cancer, Asthma, etc. By Dr. Lamb, Notes by Dr. Shew. 62 centa; muslin, $7 cents. W ater-Cure In Every Known Disease. By J. H. Rausse. 62 cents ; muslin, 87 cts. Warrer-Cure Manvar.